# [Official] Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club!



## LunaP

Just to reiterate to everyone, you can post pics of your pre-orders from NCIX as we're all we aware of the issues NCIX is having with keeping their stories coherent.


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## LunaP

CPU Batch # Section for IB-E's (Should dump this in the IB-E club if there is one)

Batch #'s

-4960X-
3320A573 ES (4.5GHz cinebench @ 1.4v) (4.99ghz @ 1.496V)
3321A576 ES (4.7GHz cinebench @ 1.35v, (5005 Mhz @ 1.472v) 5750MHz 3DMark vantage @ 1.7v LN2, CB -150 )
3330A936 (4,8 GHz cinebench @ 1,50v)
3325A993 5GHz / 1.42v

-4930K-
3320A829 ES (4.6GHz cinebench @ 1.4v)
3326B664 (5.0GHz cinebench @ 1.256v SS cooling)
3328A983 (4.6GHz cinebench @ 1.4v, 5650MHz 3DMark vantage @ 1.7v LN2, no CB)
3325A911 @ 4.7GHz cinebench @ 1.29 volt air-cooling
No CB but CBB at -170 which is not bad
4,7 GHz primestable at 1,32 Volt on air
5,8 GHz Vantage stable at 1,75 Volt
5,85 GHz wPrime stable at 1,75 Volt
3326A994 4.6 GHz Cinebench 11.5 @ 1.4V air cooling 5 GHz under SS @ -45 with 1.55V
3327A694 cine [email protected] ss -40 / [email protected] cascade -102
3326B662 4650 6/12ht vantage cpu test 1.43v/water
3332BXXX 4600 1.3V vantage max on ln2 5400 vantage 5500 3D11
3326B667 ( Cinebench @ 4.9 / 1.4v ) 4.7ghz at 1.37v on a H100 Temps Sit around 65-70C Full Load with Prime
These puppies overclock better when you raise the BLCK instead of just going Multi only.
3332B081 (4500 1.2v vantage & cinebench ) (4700 1.35v vantage & cinebench) (5000 6c/6t 1.48v 32m)
3326B668 4.7ghz @ 1.392v

-4820K-
3325A984 (4.9GHz cinebench @ 1.5v)
3327A808 (5ghz @ 1.424v)


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## Unicr0nhunter

Finally got my board delivered Sat. Took 5 days for the '3-Day shipping' option to get here. Typical.

It's beautiful. Can't wait to finish getting everything else I need for this bad boy ...


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## saer

Had to reserve a spot on the first page


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## 113802

Currently out for shipping. Once it arrives I'll post pictures of it and my new build.

Edit: Done, now to overclock, I was lazy and mounted the res/pump on the outside. Didn't feel like drilling any holes into my case


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## eduncan911

Got parts. Still working on my waterchiller setup, so it's going to be a little bit.


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## DBaer

Here is my board, received yesterday.


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## LunaP

Updated a bit, added owners list, you tube vid's fixing formatting etc. Will detail things out better later on.

Excited for you guys, mine arrives today as well, and my case should follow next week hopefully. Heart goes out to those that ordered from NCIX. Really hope things go through for everyone !


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## TK101

Same here! Reserving spot, board will be in tomorrow!









Here she is set up, need to get some cable extensions and thinking about going all black for sleeving? Thoughts??


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## erayser

My pic from yesterday...


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## KoSoVaR

Board will be here in no time.


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## Redshift 91

I'd like to join:


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## binormalkilla

Mine is sitting on my doorstep waiting for me to get home from work!


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## combatvetgsr

Please ad me when you can, thanks.


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## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK101*
> 
> Same here! Reserving spot, board will be in tomorrow!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> My pic from yesterday...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoSoVaR*
> 
> Board will be here in no time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I'd like to join:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Mine is sitting on my doorstep waiting for me to get home from work!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatvetgsr*
> 
> Please ad me when you can, thanks.


Added ! Congrats to all! Still updating, so please do critique









Looking forward to seeing everyone's build logs, don't forget to post them here so I can update OP section!


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## SDMODNoob

So my question to you owners with the board on hand atm. Do I need that 4-pin EPS to power the mother board? Just asking cuz I had to cut mine off to custom sleeve my PSU and close it. Want to know b4 I get stuck with a motherboard I can't use lol. I am using a Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 1200W PSU.


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## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> So my question to you owners with the board on hand atm. Do I need that 4-pin EPS to power the mother board? Just asking cuz I had to cut mine off to custom sleeve my PSU and close it. Want to know b4 I get stuck with a motherboard I can't use lol.


The extra 4pin @ the top, & the molex at the bottom are optional. The one @ the top is recomended for heavy CPU OC, & the one @ the bottom is recommended for 3+ GPU's...

*Good new's NCIX suckers. They are now saying that they expect to get the shipment in today, with shipping beginning tomorrow. Call them direct, & they will likely bump you up to free over night shipping.*

Thank Luna P for setting up the awesome owners club page!


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## SDMODNoob

Thanks Skupples, people on Newegg were referring to the manual and said I needed both in.


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## BOB850123

Got everything up and running!


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## kpoeticg

Yo Luna man, Thanx for biting the bullet and starting the club








Also thanx for takin the time to do it properly. Good stuff


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## skupples

Anyone planning to not play black flag/putting it off till later? I'll trade key's with you!


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## kpoeticg

PM


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## skupples

K, just so everyone knows. I now owe KpoeticG a AC:9999 CD key when my board shows up.


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## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The extra 4pin @ the top, & the molex at the bottom are optional. The one @ the top is recomended for heavy CPU OC, & the one @ the bottom is recommended for 3+ GPU's...
> 
> *Good new's NCIX suckers. They are now saying that they expect to get the shipment in today, with shipping beginning tomorrow. Call them direct, & they will likely bump you up to free over night shipping.*
> 
> Thank Luna P for setting up the awesome owners club page!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BOB850123*
> 
> Here is a temporary pic until my board arrives tomorrow!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yo Luna man, Thanx for biting the bullet and starting the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also thanx for takin the time to do it properly. Good stuff


No problem, glad to be a team player







Grats Guys! Can't wait to hear what you do w/ em ! x3 Adding now! Still working on the layout and design, sorry it's been slow, been a busy day @ work lol. Will work on it more after I get home








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> K, just so everyone knows. I now owe KpoeticG a AC:9999 CD key when my board shows up.


I'll add it to the OP


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## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> K, just so everyone knows. I now owe KpoeticG a AC:9999 CD key when my board shows up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'll add it to the OP


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## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone planning to not play black flag/putting it off till later? I'll trade key's with you!


I got one of my gtx 770s on the way. It comes with black flag, splinter cell, and batman. So ill have 2 copies of black flag errrrr.....


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## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I got one of my gtx 770s on the way. It comes with black flag, splinter cell, and batman. So ill have 2 copies of black flag errrrr.....


throw it up on ebay or the like for 5-10$ off, people will jump all over it.


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## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> throw it up on ebay or the like for 5-10$ off, people will jump all over it.


good idea! Didn't think about it that way. I was gonna toss it to one of my friends....money..friends..MONEY FOR MORE BUILD PARTS!


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## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> good idea! Didn't think about it that way. I was gonna toss it to one of my friends....money.......friends........MONEY FOR MORE BUILD PARTS!


Toss it to a friend @ a discount. win!


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## IT Diva

I was trying to wait until I had my new BE in my hot little hands before posting, but I don't have that much patience.

Mine has to get to me by way of one of the few friends that I haven't outlived back in Texas.

Looks like it reached her today from checking the tracking number, but she's working 6 days / 12hrs, so when she'll get to the post office to send it on to me is the big question.

We pre-ordered from the Egg:

Darlene


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## kpoeticg

Welcome to the club


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Welcome to the club


Thanks,

If my business to business contact at Tiger comes thru, I'll have my GPUs and SSDs next week. The 4930 and RAM are coming from my friend in Texas, we ordered that from the Egg as well.

Also waiting on the EK blocks and the Aquaero 6 at FCPU, and I'll be good to go.

The Stretched Limo build will have some guts.

Darlene


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## maxxx.ph

May I join? Still testing the processor though...

http://s402.photobucket.com/user/maxxx_ph/media/Ivy Bridge-E/Run1Cropped.jpg.html


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## Heracles

Got my board this morning but not entirely sure how to upload a pic of it, never had to upload photo's before


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## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> If my business to business contact at Tiger comes thru, I'll have my GPUs and SSDs next week. The 4930 and RAM are coming from my friend in Texas, we ordered that from the Egg as well.
> 
> Also waiting on the EK blocks and the Aquaero 6 at FCPU, and I'll be good to go.
> 
> The Stretched Limo build will have some guts.
> 
> Darlene


Sweet. Can't wait to see some updates =)
I've been subbed since i saw you're Mechanical Window Mod
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heracles*
> 
> Got my board this morning but not entirely sure how to upload a pic of it, never had to upload photo's before


When you're typing out a post, all the icons above the text box. It's the one that looks like a Portrait, 5th Icon from the right. Then just click upload.


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## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sweet. Can't wait to see some updates =)
> I've been subbed since i saw you're Mechanical Window Mod
> When you're typing out a post, all the icons above the text box. It's the one that looks like a Portrait, 5th Icon from the right. Then just click upload.


cheers

I'll upload a pic of my ****ty GS3, no pretty pictures till I do my build log though


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## LunaP

Sorry for the delay guys was driving home.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I was trying to wait until I had my new BE in my hot little hands before posting, but I don't have that much patience.
> 
> Mine has to get to me by way of one of the few friends that I haven't outlived back in Texas.
> 
> Looks like it reached her today from checking the tracking number, but she's working 6 days / 12hrs, so when she'll get to the post office to send it on to me is the big question.
> 
> We pre-ordered from the Egg:
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah sorry to hear I know how annoying the waiting game can be, even if you don't have all your parts knowing you can " HAVE IT RIGHT MEOW! " really digs in xD welcome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxxx.ph*
> 
> May I join? Still testing the processor though...
> 
> http://s402.photobucket.com/user/maxxx_ph/media/Ivy Bridge-E/Run1Cropped.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heracles*
> 
> Got my board this morning but not entirely sure how to upload a pic of it, never had to upload photo's before


No worries, photos were just one way of putting it, I'll change it to pics of order, you can run CPU-Z and upload a copy of that to show you have it









Just to reiterate to everyone, you can post pics of your pre-orders from NCIX as we're all we aware of the issues NCIX is having with keeping their stories coherent.


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## Heracles

Well here it is


I have no idea why there is two pics?


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## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heracles*
> 
> Well here it is
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea why there is two pics?


Possibly double clicked , it happens lol. Grats and welcome!


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## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Possibly double clicked , it happens lol. Grats and welcome!


I have to say that the board is so sexy and drool worthy, the pics don't do it justice


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## Cool Mike

LunaP, Thanks for putting together the Owners Club. Looking Good!









Lovin my New RIVBE. haven't started any serious overclocking yet.


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## seross69

Anybody that traded a RIVE for the BE, was it worth it??


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## Cool Mike

Yes, Memory overclocking, Great audio, Much improved Bluetooth and added wireless, I have the OC panel installed in a 5.25 bay and looks nice. and yes Assassins Creed IV Black flag. Quality MB. Much more...


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## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> Yes, Memory overclocking, Great audio, Much improved Bluetooth and added wireless, I have the OC panel installed in a 5.25 bay and looks nice. and yes Assassins Creed IV Black flag. Quality MB. Much more...


I have the RIVE now and the audio, bluetooth and wireless does not interest be as I have a 10gb NIC. game is nice touch and maybe the OC panel.

but What has really got me considering this is the memory over clocking... how much better is it??


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## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heracles*
> 
> cheers
> 
> I'll upload a pic of my ****ty GS3, no pretty pictures till I do my build log though


My only camera's my GS3 too. There's things you can do to help take better pics like use a Vise as a Tripod, set the ISO to 100, White Balance usually set to Incandescent depending where u are, Timer - 2 or 5 secs, Either exposure value -1.0 or auto-contrast. Macro Focus if you want detail, and NEVER use flash (Get a lamp and play with the lighting)

Still not as good as a camera. I'm only learning all this the past cpl weeks, but it helps ALOT


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## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> LunaP, Thanks for putting together the Owners Club. Looking Good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lovin my New RIVBE. haven't started any serious overclocking yet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, I still have to wait for my parts to install mine, pulled out my 5D Mark II and starting to take pics of the board for some pr0n for the OP









Welcome btw!


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## mphysgr

Can I also be added to the list?


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## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> My only camera's my GS3 too. There's things you can do to help take better pics like use a Vise as a Tripod, set the ISO to 100, White Balance usually set to Incandescent depending where u are, Timer - 2 or 5 secs, Either exposure value -1.0 or auto-contrast. Macro Focus if you want detail, and NEVER use flash (Get a lamp and play with the lighting)
> 
> Still not as good as a camera. I'm only learning all this the past cpl weeks, but it helps ALOT


Cheers but ill be borrowing a friends camera. Much better than any phone camera that's for sure


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## maxxx.ph

Some info and overclocking BIOS from Shamino on this thread for the R4BE : http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2479


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## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have the RIVE now and the audio, bluetooth and wireless does not interest be as I have a 10gb NIC. game is nice touch and maybe the OC panel.
> 
> but What has really got me considering this is the memory over clocking... how much better is it??


I doubt I will ever use that OC Panel. I'll probably end up trying to sell it. Ill never use it to its potential.


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## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mphysgr*
> 
> Can I also be added to the list?


Welcome to DA CLUB.


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## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mphysgr*
> 
> Can I also be added to the list?


Grats!
Added ! And welcome! Be sure to post if you have a build log








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxxx.ph*
> 
> Some info and overclocking BIOS from Shamino on this thread for the R4BE : http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2479


Appreciate it I'll take a look in a bit, finalizing the OP design atm hehe.


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## DBaer

LunaP, let me add my thanks for setting this thread up. I can tell we will all be in here quite a bit. I can see many MANY pages


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## Redshift 91

Quite possibly the first BE on a 90 degree rotated cassis



sorry if the quality's bad, the lighting in this room sucks and my S3 isn't all that great for photos

edit: why is the picture upside down? I wanted 90 degrees not 270

edit2:



There, I fixed it


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## Arm3nian

Victims of NCIX should get a VIP spot.


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## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Victims of NCIX should get a VIP spot.


I made a section for it earlier, anyone w/ a screenshot of their order is fine, we all know what's going on w/ them.

Just to reiterate to everyone, you can post pics of your pre-orders from NCIX as we're all we aware of the issues NCIX is having with keeping their stories coherent.


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## Redshift 91

I don't want to derail the thread but how can we post the club titles with the flames in our sigs? I've not been able to find a sticky on it like the rig builder. Thanks in advance


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## dr3t

cashed in some BTC for this monster... can't wait for the UPS man to deliver it...


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## skupples

Code:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I don't want to derail the thread but how can we post the club titles with the flames in our sigs? I've not been able to find a sticky on it like the rig builder. Thanks in advance


: clock :

theirs also much more complicated ways but yeah...

it would be something like

: clock : [url.= Asus]http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/50_50#post_21232354]Asus Rampage iV Black Edition Owners Club[/url] :clock :

(without spaces or the . after url)








Asus Rampage iV Black Edition Owners Club









oh hey, you can just copy & paste this, found the code button

Code:



Code:


:clock: [url=http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/50_50#post_21232354]Asus Rampage iV Black Edition Owners Club[/url] :clock:


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr3t*
> 
> cashed in some BTC for this monster... can't wait for the UPS man to deliver it...


Welcome to OCN! Good lord, I can't believe the price coins have gone up to... Guess we can thank China wanting to power house the market & the US congress allowing it for Campaign finance!


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## Redshift 91

Massive +REP Skupples, worked like a charm


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## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Code:


: clock :

theirs also much more complicated ways but yeah...

it would be something like

: clock : [url.= Asus]http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/50_50#post_21232354]Asus Rampage iV Black Edition Owners Club[/url] :clock :

(without spaces or the . after url)








Asus Rampage iV Black Edition Owners Club









oh hey, you can just copy & paste this, found the code button

Code:



Code:


:clock: [url=http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/50_50#post_21232354]Asus Rampage iV Black Edition Owners Club[/url] :clock:

+1 rep to you...

Here is a little trick so you don't need to use the


Code:




 tags.

:clock: =









Copy and paste the following:

:clock:Asus Rampage iV Black Edition Owners Club:clock:

... and it should look like this:








Asus Rampage iV Black Edition Owners Club









All you need to do is put the code between the NOPARSE tags:


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## cruzdi

Thanks Luna P. Please add me to the club.

I have a problem with my
R4BE
4930K
GTX 780

During post I get a debug code of 34. I disconnected the CPU, no bent pins in CPU or damage in motherboard.
I just have power to the board and one 8GB dominator stick in the D1 position. Still debug code 34. Nothing shows in the screen.

Any suggestions? Thank you.


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## borandi

My review sample arrived the other day. Been finishing up the M6 Impact before putting it on the test bed


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## Arizonian

Well everyone,

Looks like LunaP has this club well under way. Good OP started with information and things to come. LunaP is a stellar OCN member.
Since OCN doesn't have an Intel Editor I'm giving the thread it's *[Official]* launch status. Enjoy your mobo's and your new watering hole.


----------



## cruzdi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> Thanks Luna P. Please add me to the club.
> 
> I have a problem with my
> R4BE
> 4930K
> GTX 780
> 
> During post I get a debug code of 34. I disconnected the CPU, no bent pins in CPU or damage in motherboard.
> I just have power to the board and one 8GB dominator stick in the D1 position. Still debug code 34. Nothing shows in the screen.
> 
> Any suggestions? Thank you.


I just noticed the Boot Device and VGA red LEDs are on with the 34.


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## _REAPER_

Please add me


----------



## cruzdi

Please add me.
This is my first big build. I know it is a mess. You should see the back!


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## xarot

What RAM kits do you guys recommend for this board?

I'd like to get 1.5 V, minimum 1866 MHz and preferably 32 GB. It should be black or red and black theme. Maybe Dominator GT? I don't care about RAM overclocking that much.

I have a red Vengeance kit now but that looks cheap.









Still waiting for my board. Local PC shop has ordered them directly from ASUS so who knows if it arrives soon or would take up an eternity to arrive in Finland...


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## _REAPER_

I went ahead and purchased the 64 gig of Corsair Platinum 2133mhz kit


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## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I went ahead and purchased the 64 gig of Corsair Platinum 2133mhz kit


Ouch my wallet hurts and I didn't even buy it!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> What RAM kits do you guys recommend for this board?
> 
> I'd like to get 1.5 V, minimum 1866 MHz and preferably 32 GB. It should be black or red and black theme. Maybe Dominator GT? I don't care about RAM overclocking that much.
> 
> I have a red Vengeance kit now but that looks cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting for my board. Local PC shop has ordered them directly from ASUS so who knows if it arrives soon or would take up an eternity to arrive in Finland...


I would get the Gskill it is as good of memory as the corsair and cheaper usually.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I went ahead and purchased the 64 gig of Corsair Platinum 2133mhz kit


OMG why you could have got the Gskill kit at 2400 for 250 less and in my experience better memory. I had a set of the 2133doms and could not get them to work at the rated speed.. plugged the gskill 2400 in and over clocked the 3930 to 4.5 and had to change no voltage settings. so I am sure I can do better when I get the PC together. And I gave 499.99 for my set of Gskill that now sells for 719.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> What RAM kits do you guys recommend for this board?
> 
> I'd like to get 1.5 V, minimum 1866 MHz and preferably 32 GB. It should be black or red and black theme. Maybe Dominator GT? I don't care about RAM overclocking that much.
> 
> I have a red Vengeance kit now but that looks cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting for my board. Local PC shop has ordered them directly from ASUS so who knows if it arrives soon or would take up an eternity to arrive in Finland...
> 
> 
> 
> I would get the Gskill it is as good of memory as the corsair and cheaper usually.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I went ahead and purchased the 64 gig of Corsair Platinum 2133mhz kit
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OMG why you could have got the Gskill kit at 2400 for 250 less and in my experience better memory. I had a set of the 2133doms and could not get them to work at the rated speed.. plugged the gskill 2400 in and over clocked the 3930 to 4.5 and had to change no voltage settings. so I am sure I can do better when I get the PC together. And I gave 499.99 for my set of Gskill that now sells for 719.
Click to expand...

Money is only money your not going to die with it... trust me I know, I have never had any issue with Corsair at all so I went with their memory.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Money is only money your not going to die with it... trust me I know, I have never had any issue with Corsair at all so I went with their memory.


That is so true about money and that is why my build is called excessive insanity.

But I did have issues more than once with corsair memory and a PSU so I never will buy their products where all you are paying for is a name.

but you are right it is the luck of the draw sometimes. But I have been real pleased with the G Skill they don't look as sexy but I am water cooling them anyway so it don't matter.


----------



## Jacoblab

Here is my order


----------



## CallsignVega

How you guys liking these bad boys over the regular RIVE? Much difference? Thinking about ordering one and maybe a 4930K or 4960X. Just worried about it ending up _slower_ than my current RIVE+3960X combo LOL.


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## skupples

good luck finding one anytime soon. hopefully another batch comes around before Christmas


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I don't want to derail the thread but how can we post the club titles with the flames in our sigs? I've not been able to find a sticky on it like the rig builder. Thanks in advance


Sorry about that was waiting for the "Official" go from the MOD's before popping one up, gonna see if I can amp it up a bit from your standard style








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Code:


: clock :

theirs also much more complicated ways but yeah...

it would be something like

: clock : [url.= Asus]http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/50_50#post_21232354]Asus Rampage iV Black Edition Owners Club[/url] :clock :

(without spaces or the . after url)








Asus Rampage iV Black Edition Owners Club









oh hey, you can just copy & paste this, found the code button

Code:



Code:


:clock: [url=http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/50_50#post_21232354]Asus Rampage iV Black Edition Owners Club[/url] :clock:

Appreciate it Skupps +1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> Thanks Luna P. Please add me to the club.
> 
> I have a problem with my
> R4BE
> 4930K
> GTX 780
> 
> During post I get a debug code of 34. I disconnected the CPU, no bent pins in CPU or damage in motherboard.
> I just have power to the board and one 8GB dominator stick in the D1 position. Still debug code 34. Nothing shows in the screen.
> 
> Any suggestions? Thank you.


Added, and grats!

Are there any beeps? I'll have to pull up the manual as I haven't gotten mine installed yet, I'll check the site as well. For now when you turn it on I take it power is getting to the board if you're getting a debug code. So we can rule that part out. Have you connected all power cables into the board, as well as the GPU?

Do you have other memory sticks to test? It could be a bad timing issue. If not remove the CPU and reset the CMOS. Could be anything from voltage to timing issues on the board, so best to reset it to factory. Let me know if this helps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borandi*
> 
> My review sample arrived the other day. Been finishing up the M6 Impact before putting it on the test bed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Well everyone,
> 
> Looks like LunaP has this club well under way. Good OP started with information and things to come. LunaP is a stellar OCN member.
> Since OCN doesn't have an Intel Editor I'm giving the thread it's *[Official]* launch status. Enjoy your mobo's and your new watering hole.


Sankyuu ! I'll do my best to keep it organized and up to date , thanks so much








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> I just noticed the Boot Device and VGA red LEDs are on with the 34.


Disconnect your sata cables for now while testing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Please add me
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Added GRATS!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> Please add me.
> This is my first big build. I know it is a mess. You should see the back!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats added!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> What RAM kits do you guys recommend for this board?
> 
> I'd like to get 1.5 V, minimum 1866 MHz and preferably 32 GB. It should be black or red and black theme. Maybe Dominator GT? I don't care about RAM overclocking that much.
> 
> I have a red Vengeance kit now but that looks cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting for my board. Local PC shop has ordered them directly from ASUS so who knows if it arrives soon or would take up an eternity to arrive in Finland...


We've got a few gurus here actually that are doing extensive tests with different kits. I'll make a section that keeps track of best kits for mem as well as their OC track records with this board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> Here is my order
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats! Welcome to the club !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> How you guys liking these bad boys over the regular RIVE? Much difference? Thinking about ordering one and maybe a 4930K or 4960X. Just worried about it ending up _slower_ than my current RIVE+3960X combo LOL.


Sadly I can't build mine till I get my case labs case, my final debate is reverse vs standard ATX ( so dumb I know







)

As for the RIVE + 3960X we'll see I think we have a couple porting over iirc.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> good luck finding one anytime soon. hopefully another batch comes around before Christmas


I'm in no rush, I'd most like wait to install the EK block on it anyways which isn't out until like mid Dec.


----------



## mphysgr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats!
> Added ! And welcome! Be sure to post if you have a build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate it I'll take a look in a bit, finalizing the OP design atm hehe.


Thanks, here is the link to my log:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1423676/build-log-tesla-175-caselabs-th10-build


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mphysgr*
> 
> Thanks, here is the link to my log:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423676/build-log-tesla-175-caselabs-th10-build


Oooh thanks! Added!

Club Signature section updated !

W00 now that we got our [Official] Status! Time to update the Club sig!

For those of you that already updated, as per thread name change please update your sig's to match.
Also updated on the OP. Might decide to jazz it up a bit too









Code:



Code:


[CENTER] :clock: [url=http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/0_30]Official Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club[/url] :clock: [/CENTER]

Also Crudzi, let me know if that helps, if so we can add it to the troubleshooting section for specific codes.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'll have to pull up the manual as I haven't gotten mine installed yet,


Test rat do some tests.

BTW Do you know I talked with a girl that worked in the lab with rats, looked like a rat, and had a rat with LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG birth certificate?


----------



## BaldGuy

I want to join. Thanks.

Photo Nov 21, 12 26 50 PM.jpg 649k .jpg file


----------



## saer

This has easily been the worst online buying experience I've ever had thus far..








*NCIX*


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I want to join. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Photo Nov 21, 12 26 50 PM.jpg 649k .jpg file


Grats ! And welcome









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> This has easily been the worst online buying experience I've ever had thus far..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NCIX*


I still bet that they thought Acer vs Asus due to their canadian accent which is why theyll be waiting forever for the Acer Rampage Black edition vs the actual product lol.


----------



## RSharpe

Well after the debacle with NICX.ca, cancelling my pre-order and ordering from Newegg, I thought the hassle was over.

Turns out Newegg decided to ship my package by ground, instead of air (express).... despite the fact that I paid $28 for express. So, more waiting! Hurray!


----------



## Redshift 91

I'm having error 34 (Manual says memory post error) on my viper3s and I tried some hyperx blue that I had lying around and it error 54ed (incompatible memory type or speed). I'd do a bios update, but I can't even load the rog motherboards page on the asus site, it just white screens and chrome says it loaded. That sucks because I really want to reflow my indigo xtreme today.

edit: page loaded, no bios update


----------



## Redshift 91

I did some google searches and found this:

http://www.techhelpfox.com/5565494/Rampage-Iv-Cpu-Post-Memory-Initialization-Error-34

If you're watercooling, be sure to plug something into the cpu fan header, worked in one shot.

edited for spelling


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> Thanks Luna P. Please add me to the club.
> 
> I have a problem with my
> R4BE
> 4930K
> GTX 780
> 
> During post I get a debug code of 34. I disconnected the CPU, no bent pins in CPU or damage in motherboard.
> I just have power to the board and one 8GB dominator stick in the D1 position. Still debug code 34. Nothing shows in the screen.
> 
> Any suggestions? Thank you.


Have a look at my last post before this, it solved my error code 34 issue

Edit: it also throws an error 34 if you're in the bios


----------



## DBaer

Questions for all y'all Re cables
1. Are you comfortable using the SATA 6 cables included with the board or are you getting aftermarket cables like I have done in the past?
2. I am also considering using the hot swap cage included with my 900D and in doing so using the SATA cables attached to it, any comments on that?
Thanks!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I'm having error 34 (Manual says memory post error) on my viper3s and I tried some hyperx blue that I had lying around and it error 54ed (incompatible memory type or speed). I'd do a bios update, but I can't even load the rog motherboards page on the asus site, it just white screens and chrome says it loaded. That sucks because I really want to reflow my indigo xtreme today.
> 
> edit: page loaded, no bios update


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I did some google searches and found this:
> 
> http://www.techhelpfox.com/5565494/Rampage-Iv-Cpu-Post-Memory-Initialization-Error-34
> 
> If you're watercooling, be sure to plug something into the cpu fan header, worked in one shot.
> 
> edited for spelling


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Have a look at my last post before this, it solved my error code 34 issue


Yeah I answered him earlier up in the thread, haven't heard back from him. Depending if you're on AIR or WC check this thread out too, this gave a good solution though a diff board they all appear to share the same error responses.

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?4705-Solution-Maximus-IV-Gene-z-and-error-34-(debug-34)

I'm going to get a list of Error codes together later and have links for plausible solutions, marking them off based upon people's builds ( i.e WC or Air etc)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Questions for all y'all Re cables
> 1. Are you comfortable using the SATA 6 cables included with the board or are you getting aftermarket cables like I have done in the past?
> 2. I am also considering using the hot swap cage included with my 900D and in doing so using the SATA cables attached to it, any comments on that?
> Thanks!


I normally get new ones as well, only because before I had no idea what type of Sata cables were included. I don't doubt these SHOULD be Sata 3 cables but I'm getting aftermarket ones w/ threads done for aesthetics.

Also I see you copied in the new sig, makes me realize I forgot to put the
Tags around it, I'll update my posts to reflect it. You can just go into yours and highlight the entire code you pasted and click the "center" button and it'll do it for you.


----------



## Arm3nian

Instead of plugging something into the cpu fan header you can go to the system monitor in the bios and put it on ignore. This worked for me with past asus boards.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Questions for all y'all Re cables
> 1. Are you comfortable using the SATA 6 cables included with the board or are you getting aftermarket cables like I have done in the past?
> 2. I am also considering using the hot swap cage included with my 900D and in doing so using the SATA cables attached to it, any comments on that?
> Thanks!


I would assume you should be good to go with both... If I remember correctly the only possible issue would be the singular power source on the 900D cage. Asus normally includes decent enough quality sata cables... The only thing I don't understand about the 900D HDD cage is the E-sata looking device coming out of the back. My case didn't come with any sort of adapter.


----------



## Redshift 91

up and running with no more issues( yet), will report back if reflow's successful


----------



## LunaP

Hey guys I just got a call from NCIX stating they have the shipments in and wanted to verify I still wanted the product and will be shipping today. So all orders will be going out.

I'd recommend you guys call in and ask for free overnight if possible due to the wait.


----------



## skupples

this thing...



this 60$ el-cheepo samsung digital camera doesn't take half bad close up pictures once you knock out all the auto features (still auto focuses, which is pita)


----------



## Cool Mike

I have never had a problem with Asus included sata cables. Using the ones included with my Black Edition. Using the 6gb version on my raid 0 ssd setup.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I normally get new ones as well, only because before I had no idea what type of Sata cables were included. I don't doubt these SHOULD be Sata 3 cables but I'm getting aftermarket ones w/ threads done for aesthetics.


All Sata cables are the same. Sata I/II/III cables are just marketing.

Also, feel free to add my buid log to the OP







The links in my sig


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> All Sata cables are the same. Sata I/II/III cables are just marketing.


That depends if manufacturer didn't wanted to save on wire thickness, or didn't want to market a soft cable. Reducing wire thickness has sharp negative effects on data error rate.

Majority of cables included with MB are fine, however, because its manufacturer isn't stupid.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i guess when i said "All SATA cables are the same" i shoulda been clearer. I meant, Sata I, II, & III cables are the same. Not like every sata cable has the same quality


----------



## JMCB

If I upgrade to Ivy Bridge-E, I'll be sure to get this board (although I'm pretty happy with the performance I'm getting from my 3960X and the original RIV-E). It was cheaper for me to upgrade my video cards ATM so I went in that direction (and that was sort of a frivolous upgrade as well).


----------



## ZX2Slow

UPS delivers!



Just started my build:

Asus Rampage IV Black
Intel 4930K
G.Skill 32GB (4x8GB) DDR 2400c10
Samsung 840 Pro 512GB
2x WD Black 2TB drives
Corsair 900D
Corsair AX1200i

Cooling:
Swiftech Apogee HD (white) cpu block
Swiftech MCR420-XP Quad 120mm radiator + 8x Corsair SP120 quiet edition fans push/pull
Swiftech MCP35x2 (white) pump
Primochill CTR res

I am waiting on some other parts and need to sleeve about a trillion wires.


----------



## shilka

Why did you get the AX1200i?

Just asking when the EVGA SuperNova G2 is a 100$ cheaper and almost as good?

Welcome to OCN by the way

Anyway was not why i was here

Am thinking of buying a R4BE but is it worth it when i have the R4E already?


----------



## binormalkilla

Waiting on my tubing, second gtx560 radiator, and Koolarnace 380i to arrive before I boot with this board. Will probably be sometime this weekend since this stuff arrives tomorrow. Saturday isn't looking so hot since I'll be tailgating during the day and my wife's family is coming over at night -__-


----------



## CerN

Here is my order confirmation from the Norwegian site Komplett.no. Will that do?









RIVBE and a 4930k



If not, *RESERVED*


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why did you get the AX1200i?
> 
> Just asking when the EVGA SuperNova G2 is a 100$ cheaper and almost as good?
> 
> Welcome to OCN by the way
> 
> Anyway was not why i was here
> 
> Am thinking of buying a R4BE but is it worth it when i have the R4E already?


This is gonna sound ironic, but if you have to ask then probly not. If the extra features on it don't make you "Need" it, or your not losing sleep over it, the performance gains are mainly with ram

Edit: Then again, i guess it depends if you can find some1 to give you a decent price for your RIVE.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> This is gonna sound ironic, but if you have to ask then probly not. If the extra features on it don't make you "Need" it, or your not losing sleep over it, the performance gains are mainly with ram


I was thinking of getting a 2400 Mhz RAM kit

But i heard that if you update the BIOS on the R4E you can get 2400 to work

Is that true?

If it is then you are right zero reason to upgrade


----------



## ZX2Slow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why did you get the AX1200i?


As a "upgrade" from my PCP&C TurboCool 1200W. I could not stand the fan noise and the DSP control in the AXi series is phenomenal, you cant get a PSU that delivers cleaner power.


----------



## shilka

*


----------



## kpoeticg

I really don't know about the BIOS with the RIVE. Wanting to run higher ram frequencies is a pretty good argument for IB-E/RIVE BE though


----------



## shilka

Yes you can

And all that digtal control and all that is nosense and marketing hype

You could have save a ton of money and gotten something just as good


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah the AX1200i is wayyyyy overhyped =P (Read Overpriced)

It's a great PSU, don't get me wrong, but there's definitely better PSU's that cost less.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> All Sata cables are the same. Sata I/II/III cables are just marketing.
> 
> Also, feel free to add my buid log to the OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The links in my sig


Adding now, appreciate it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZX2Slow*
> 
> UPS delivers!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just started my build:
> 
> Asus Rampage IV Black
> Intel 4930K
> G.Skill 32GB (4x8GB) DDR 2400c10
> Samsung 840 Pro 512GB
> 2x WD Black 2TB drives
> Corsair 900D
> Corsair AX1200i
> 
> Cooling:
> Swiftech Apogee HD (white) cpu block
> Swiftech MCR420-XP Quad 120mm radiator + 8x Corsair SP120 quiet edition fans push/pull
> Swiftech MCP35x2 (white) pump
> Primochill CTR res
> 
> I am waiting on some other parts and need to sleeve about a trillion wires.


Grats !

and Very nice, can't wait to see the build log








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CerN*
> 
> Here is my order confirmation from the Norwegian site Komplett.no. Will that do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIVBE and a 4930k
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not, *RESERVED*


Grats! Let us know your experiences when you get it


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I was thinking of getting a 2400 Mhz RAM kit
> 
> But i heard that if you update the BIOS on the R4E you can get 2400 to work
> 
> Is that true?
> 
> If it is then you are right zero reason to upgrade


The R4E with a memory kit & IMC that can do it has been able to run 2400Mhz since launch.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> The R4E with a memory kit & IMC that can do it has been able to run 2400Mhz since launch.


Well to tell the truth the PSU world has taken up all my time so i have gotten behind on everything else

Have not even bothered to update my BIOS in over a year

Thanks anyway


----------



## ZX2Slow

I cross-shopped the 1300W & 1500W supernova G2, I was able to get a decent deal (~250USD) on the AX1200i and liked the features. I think budget is a moot point here as building a x79 platform system is not about bang for your buck.


----------



## LunaP

Having an issue updating the main thread guys, just sent a error report, will update once I can edit it again. I've noted new owners so will be an easy copy / paste once done.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZX2Slow*
> 
> I cross-shopped the 1300W & 1500W supernova G2, I was able to get a decent deal (~250USD) on the AX1200i and liked the features. I think budget is a moot point here as building a x79 platform system is not about bang for your buck.


No but why spend more money for no good reason

Anyway your choice am not going to say anything when i have done things like that in the past


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZX2Slow*
> 
> I cross-shopped the 1300W & 1500W supernova G2, I was able to get a decent deal (~250USD) on the AX1200i and liked the features. I think budget is a moot point here as building a x79 platform system is not about bang for your buck.


$250's worth it for the AX1200i IMO. That's about the real world value of it.


----------



## Aftermath2006

it arrived now i can get to work on finishing my rebuild but probably wont get to even touch it till after next week


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it arrived now i can get to work on finishing my rebuild but probably wont get to even touch it till after next wee
> 
> 
> k


very nice! Welcome!


----------



## CallsignVega

Woops, posted this in the news/wrong section:

Pre-ordered with Newegg.

Now CPU, 4930K or 4960X? Thoughts?

Leaning towards this memory kit:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231641

It's the only 16GB kit that has CAS 11 instead of 12 at higher frequencies.


----------



## Redshift 91

Callsign Vega, I'd get the 4930k if I didn't already have my 3930k. I've never seen any convincing reason to grab the x cpus unless you really want the epeen. Which is valid, I have 2 titans. Buy whatever has the most meaning to you. I don't suppose that's very helpful though.


----------



## ZX2Slow

If that 3MB of L3 cache is worth and extra $500 to you then go for it...


----------



## Arm3nian

It makes some difference in certain benchmarks and some workstation programs. Makes no difference in games. If you have an unlimited budget then it might be worth it if you're looking for top bench scores.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Woops, posted this in the news/wrong section:
> 
> Pre-ordered with Newegg.
> 
> Now CPU, 4930K or 4960X? Thoughts?
> 
> Leaning towards this memory kit:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231641
> 
> It's the only 16GB kit that has CAS 11 instead of 12 at higher frequencies.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Callsign Vega, I'd get the 4930k if I didn't already have my 3930k. I've never seen any convincing reason to grab the x cpus unless you really want the epeen. Which is valid, I have 2 titans. Buy whatever has the most meaning to you. I don't suppose that's very helpful though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZX2Slow*
> 
> If that 3MB of L3 cache is worth and extra $500 to you then go for it...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> It makes some difference in certain benchmarks and some workstation programs. Makes no difference in games. If you have an unlimited budget then it might be worth it if you're looking for top bench scores.


For what it's worth and what I've been told ( as stated before from a fellow associate @ our drill ( works for intel ) ) that the X chips are K chips that have simply been binned, so it's pretty much not just the 3mb cache and .1ghz but they're pretty much cherry picked, THAT is the only reason I'm paying higher, JUST in case as I hate dealing w/ return policies









If I can find it, there were a few reddit threads from intel employees discussing this as well. Granted take this with a grain of salt, but this is what I've gone by after confirming with a few sources. Nothing wrong w/ the 4930k and I hear some achieve the same as an X as well as better.

X is X for a reason.


----------



## Redshift 91

my 3930k is runnig all sticks at 2133 at 11-10-11-27 at 1.55v I'm preparing to do a quick and dirty overclock


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> For what it's worth and what I've been told ( as stated before from a fellow associate @ our drill ( works for intel ) ) that the *X chips are K chips that have simply been binned*, so it's pretty much not just the 3mb cache and .1ghz but they're pretty much cherry picked, THAT is the only reason I'm paying higher, JUST in case as I hate dealing w/ return policies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *If I can find it, there were a few reddit threads from intel employees discussing this as well*. Granted take this with a grain of salt, but this is what I've gone by after confirming with a few sources. Nothing wrong w/ the 4930k and I hear some achieve the same as an X as well as better.
> 
> X is X for a reason.


If you could find where you read that, I'd definitely appreciate a link. I think you mentioned that in the BE Announcement thread a while back, but i've never heard it anywhere else b4. Definitely interesting information


----------



## CerN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats! Let us know your experiences when you get it


Definitely will, might do a little build-log. Got my Switch 810 and custom water loop waiting for this thing.


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Long time stalker, first time poster.

Looks like ill be in the second mass order that Newegg ships out. The pre-order option is back up on their website again.

Really excited about this board after reading everything.


----------



## ZX2Slow

Camera is charging and I'm taking a break from my build. Learned all sorts of stuff about how the different parts are working together in the case. I need Corsair to ship some case parts so I can complete everything.


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Woops, posted this in the news/wrong section:
> 
> Pre-ordered with Newegg.
> 
> Now CPU, 4930K or 4960X? Thoughts?
> 
> Leaning towards this memory kit:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231641
> 
> It's the only 16GB kit that has CAS 11 instead of 12 at higher frequencies.


Maybe 2 of these instead:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231677

or

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231678


----------



## eduncan911

Assassin's Creeed IV Black Flag Promo Code

Is this not a Steam game? I went through Ubi Soft's online store (required as per the card) and gave them my SS# and everything exposing myself to them, only to be told to download their... wait for it... UPLAY Steam-Like, Origin-Like software to download and play the game?

You got to be kidding me... Yet another Steam wanna be?

I tried to paste the key I got from UbiSoft into Steam to import it, and it said invalid key.

This really makes me angry.. I would have SOLD my Promo Code, before activating it, to buy it on Steam. Even paying an extra $10 or so just to do it.

Man, I feel ripped off.


----------



## strong island 1

pretty much all ubisoft games do this. Far Cry 3 allowed you to redeem with steam but when you started the game in steam it would actually open uplay and start the game from there. it was really wierd. Either way if a game is ubisoft or EA usually they will use there own service.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Assassin's Creeed IV Black Flag Promo Code
> 
> Is this not a Steam game? I went through Ubi Soft's online store (required as per the card) and gave them my SS# and everything exposing myself to them, only to be told to download their... wait for it... UPLAY Steam-Like, Origin-Like software to download and play the game?
> 
> You got to be kidding me... Yet another Steam wanna be?
> 
> I tried to paste the key I got from UbiSoft into Steam to import it, and it said invalid key.
> 
> This really makes me angry.. I would have SOLD my Promo Code, before activating it, to buy it on Steam. Even paying an extra $10 or so just to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> Man, I feel ripped off.


I know it's a pain in the ass, but Steam has had a monopoly on this type of system for far too long. While it's annoying to have 3 of these programs on my computer I welcome the competition. Though UPLAY & ORIGIN are in house titles only.... The reason they exist is because Valve is overly greedy with the % the demand from the sale of the game. If valve wasn't a money grubby punk with terrible return policies this would of never happened... I wish origin would list more titles, as they allow 72 hour refund (even if you played it for those 72 hours) on any title on the service. This is something STEAM could learn allot from. The one time refund policy they use is utter & complete dog doodoo... You can at least bet that UPLAY has better cyber security than healthcare.gov

In other news.. It seems the long wait is over my hood winked ncix brethren.


----------



## Arm3nian

You got Megan also? lol. I still haven't gotten any messages. You did preorder a day before me though.


----------



## ZX2Slow

Whats the story on the limited availability from Newegg and NCIX, I don't think these are limited edition boards.

A friend asked me to help with another build and he wants a RIVBE now that he saw mine.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you could find where you read that, I'd definitely appreciate a link. I think you mentioned that in the BE Announcement thread a while back, but i've never heard it anywhere else b4. Definitely interesting information




__
https://www.reddit.com/r/15iaet/iama_cpu_architect_and_designer_at_intel_ama/

I'll quote it once I find it, gonna be digging deep into this one for a bit







IF this is the correct AMA >.>


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's a pain in the ass, but Steam has had a monopoly on this type of system for far too long. While it's annoying to have 3 of these programs on my computer I welcome the competition. Though UPLAY & ORIGIN are in house titles only.... The reason they exist is because Valve is overly greedy with the % the demand from the sale of the game. If valve wasn't a money grubby punk with terrible return policies this would of never happened... I wish origin would list more titles, as they allow 72 hour refund (even if you played it for those 72 hours) on any title on the service. This is something STEAM could learn allot from. The one time refund policy they use is utter & complete dog doodoo... You can at least bet that UPLAY has better cyber security than healthcare.gov
> 
> 
> In other news.. It seems the long wait is over my hood winked ncix brethren.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZX2Slow*
> 
> Whats the story on the limited availability from Newegg and NCIX, I don't think these are limited edition boards.
> 
> A friend asked me to help with another build and he wants a RIVBE now that he saw mine.


I actually figured since Asus has no other boards being released at the same time, that there would be plenty of supply to go around. I think alot of companies do limited early releases to make people want the product more. AMD and Nintendo are pretty infamous for releasing hardware like that....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> You got Megan also? lol. I still haven't gotten any messages. You did preorder a day before me though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZX2Slow*
> 
> Whats the story on the limited availability from Newegg and NCIX, I don't think these are limited edition boards.
> 
> A friend asked me to help with another build and he wants a RIVBE now that he saw mine.


Well... It seems a new release date has come forth via asus, being november 25th. So, it seems they are playing the limited release game. Doing so to hype the population, & try to drive sales once the flood gates open. NewEgg is taking pre-orders for this new release date of november 25th.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> You got Megan also? lol. I still haven't gotten any messages. You did preorder a day before me though.






















































If you don't get conformation some time soon I would abandon ship & jump on neweggs november 25th band wagon.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZX2Slow*
> 
> Whats the story on the limited availability from Newegg and NCIX, I don't think these are limited edition boards.


Well, they started to ship shortly after begin of manufacturing. So they are doing few hundred boards per day for the whole world. Add some time for shipping arrive from China, and add all these boards that ends in China and on Taiwan, and you'd have quite a fairly nice picture of the whole stuff. Newegg received 190 boards which is a large first shipment, some backward countries in EU are receiving about 50 boards per country and large shops are getting 15, small shops without guaranteed preorders about 3-5. They are even often leaving them in reseller storage and receiving them on demand. High end boards are risky for small computer shops, actually they are risky even for high end shops.


----------



## LunaP

I find this to be a good read, for those looking to get good batches of CPU's

Picking CPUs by batch.

Intel

An Intel "batch" code looks something like this.
3849A015

3 - Plant it was made at, list of plants.

0 = San Jose, Costa Rica
1 = Cavite, Philippines
3 = .............., Costa Rica
6 = Chandler, Arizona
7 = .........., Philippines
8 = Leixlip, Ireland
9 = Penang, Malaysia
L = ............, Malaysia
Q = ..........., Malaysia
R = Manila, Philippines
Y = Leixlip, Ireland

8 - Year (2008)
49 - Week of the year (49th week)
A - Stepping (A less voltage more heat, B more voltage less heat, C too rare to know advantages)
015 - Location on the wafer. Last two digits are important, you want them to be less then 15.

Whats important. Firstly, the date (year and week). Only way to know which are best is by looking for results by others with the same date.
Next look at the stepping. Decide by your cooling. I recomend A batches for good water setups for daily, and since they are generally lower VID then B batches, should be better with extreme cooling. B batches are going to be better for air, or entry water setups. They will also generally draw less power.

Hope this helps, I just verified my chip is an A series.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Does any body have a guide or a link to a guide for setting up a RAID 0 array with 2 ssds and Installing a new operating system onto it? I will be doing this for my Black Edition build. I'm sure I could figure it out I just want to do it absolutely right so I don't have any problems.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I find this to be a good read, for those looking to get good batches of CPU's
> Hope this helps, I just verified my chip is an A series.


The guy who wrote that is a bit clueless, the A, B & C aren't the stepping (it's part of the lot info) & his views on which are better (A, B or C) are his opinion, no fact in it.


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> The guy who wrote that is a bit clueless, the A, B & C aren't the stepping (it's part of the lot info) & his views on which are better (A, B or C) are his opinion, no fact in it.


It's more of a general guide in my opinion. In reality it's pretty random what you end up getting. The silicon might be good, but the package itself has lots of variations that cannot be accounted for so directly.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> The guy who wrote that is a bit clueless, the A, B & C aren't the stepping (it's part of the lot info) & his views on which are better (A, B or C) are his opinion, no fact in it.


Appreciate that, I'm googling further to validate it, do you have any additional information on this so I can change it?

Also
Quote:


> The closer the chip is to the centre of the silicone wafer the better a chip will usually perform. That person probably got a chip the is very close to the centre and you could have gotten one that's further out. When it comes to CPU's it's not even really about base clock speeds, it's more about how close your CPU is to the center of the wafer


Is where I'm betting on for X chips, again still looking for evidence again.


----------



## Aftermath2006

any word on water blocks for the board yet


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> any word on water blocks for the board


Believe we are looking @ mid December. I may take for ever to put this together just for that reason.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> ...Is where I'm betting on for X chips, again still looking for evidence again.


Sounds logical


----------



## maxxx.ph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> any word on water blocks for the board yet


EK did announce they are making a waterblock for this board : http://www.ekwb.com/news/415/19/Water-block-for-ASUS-ROG-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-in-the-works/

Haven't read from other makers though.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxxx.ph*
> 
> EK did announce they are making a waterblock for this board : http://www.ekwb.com/news/415/19/Water-block-for-ASUS-ROG-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-in-the-works/
> 
> Haven't read from other makers though.


Yeah, it should be out in a cpl weeks hopefully. I'm not expecting any1 else to make a block for it considering the limited life left in x79.


----------



## LunaP

http://pc.ayumilove.net/list-of-intel-cpu-batch-number/

Also this, and many references on different forums, slightly worded different. Since I have an A chip means WC will be great for it, those w/ B chips will have fun w/ AIR and CL's.

So K chips = binned from batches taken outside of the center of the wafer while X chips are those from the center and binned from K's if any.

This would make more plausible sense in the way things are numbered.

This also makes sense on why alot of the A chips on Ebay are getting more bids than the B chips.

AGAIN just speculating but can't overlook it either









I think I want to make a section in the OP for everyone's chips and their Batch #'s along w/ their OC achievements. Anyone up for it ?


----------



## Aftermath2006

may just put it together and add the block when i do a tear down and cleaning of the loop i usually change things pretty often anyway


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Appreciate that, I'm googling further to validate it, do you have any additional information on this so I can change it?
> 
> Also
> Is where I'm betting on for X chips, again still looking for evidence again.


Example: L707A723 ---

1st letter or digit = plant code: (Malaysia)
0 = San Jose, Costa Rica
1 = Cavite, Philippines
3 = Costa Rica
6 = Chandler, Arizona
7 = Philippines
8 = Leixlip, Ireland
9 = Penang, Malaysia
L = Malaysia
Q = Malaysia
R = Manila, Philippines
Y = Leixlip, Ireland

2nd digit = Year of production: (2007)

3rd & 4th digits = week: (7th week )

5th - 8th digits= lot number: (723)

10th - 13th digits = serialization code (---)

Most of what was in the quote you posted is correct, the letters just aren't the stepping & the descriptions he had for the what the letters signify is something the author made up on his own.
Don't go by his descriptions of the letters, that part is plain wrong.


----------



## LunaP

Alright OP's working again seems there was a hiccup earlier after a forum update. Updated names and club signature (for centering) as well as build logs. If I missed anyone lemme know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> Example: L707*A*723 ---
> 
> 1st letter or digit = plant code: (Malaysia)
> 0 = San Jose, Costa Rica
> 1 = Cavite, Philippines
> 3 = Costa Rica
> 6 = Chandler, Arizona
> 7 = Philippines
> 8 = Leixlip, Ireland
> 9 = Penang, Malaysia
> L = Malaysia
> Q = Malaysia
> R = Manila, Philippines
> Y = Leixlip, Ireland
> 
> 2nd digit = Year of production: (2007)
> 
> 3rd & 4th digits = week: (7th week )
> 
> *5th - 8th digits= lot number: (723)* <--- Where's A
> 
> 10th - 13th digits = serialization code (---)
> 
> Most of what was in the quote you posted is correct, the letters just aren't the stepping & the descriptions he had for the what the letters signify is something the author made up on his own.
> Don't go by his descriptions of the letters, that part is plain wrong.


Ah ok , I found that as well just only once. What's the A stand for as its not referenced in your description?
Also any chance your post is from an older method of batch #'s and it's been changed since the introduction of the i7 series ( 2nd gen + )

I was finding the one you displayed mainly for Core 2 / Duo's etc. Though the posts were much older. I'd really love to clarify on this so appreciate the feedback.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Alright OP's working again seems there was a hiccup earlier after a forum update. Updated names and club signature (for centering) as well as build logs. If I missed anyone lemme know.


I actually didn't realize til just now when i checked the OP that my sig linked to the Newest Post of my build log instead of the beginning. I just fixed it. If you could fix it in the OP whenever you get a chance it would be much appreciated


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you could find where you read that, I'd definitely appreciate a link. I think you mentioned that in the BE Announcement thread a while back, but i've never heard it anywhere else b4. Definitely interesting information


it has always been that the extreme chips were higher binned I dont think this is anything new. but for 500 or more dollars i will play the silicone lottery and so far I have been lucky!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Does any body have a guide or a link to a guide for setting up a RAID 0 array with 2 ssds and Installing a new operating system onto it? I will be doing this for my Black Edition build. I'm sure I could figure it out I just want to do it absolutely right so I don't have any problems.


Look at these
http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds

http://www.overclock.net/t/1240779/seans-windows-8-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds

http://www.overclock.net/t/1179518/seans-ssd-buyers-guide-information-thread

http://www.overclock.net/t/1429829/configuring-ssd-and-hdds-after-installing-windows-7-using-seans-windows-install-guide

Just look in the storage guide on the forums if these do not have what you need or PM Sean Webster and he can give you a link for this.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I actually didn't realize til just now when i checked the OP that my sig linked to the Newest Post of my build log instead of the beginning. I just fixed it. If you could fix it in the OP whenever you get a chance it would be much appreciated


Sankyuu, updating now.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Alright OP's working again seems there was a hiccup earlier after a forum update. Updated names and club signature (for centering) as well as build logs. If I missed anyone lemme know.
> Ah ok , I found that as well just only once. What's the A stand for as its not referenced in your description?
> Also any chance your post is from an older method of batch #'s and it's been changed since the introduction of the i7 series ( 2nd gen + )
> 
> I was finding the one you displayed mainly for Core 2 / Duo's etc. Though the posts were much older. I'd really love to clarify on this so appreciate the feedback.


The A is part of the lot number. It has no meaning as far as the heat or voltage of a cpu, it may be relevant to one series of a particular cpu release, but nothing constant..

Where he has A - Stepping (A less voltage more heat, B more voltage less heat, C too rare to know advantages), that is just bad info.
A don't always use less voltage or have more heat, B doesn't always use more voltage or have less heat, C aren't always rare or exceptional, they can be worse than A or B, or not.

Sometimes those descriptions might be accurate when looking at a cpu, but will change constantly.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it has always been that the extreme chips were higher binned I dont think this is anything new. but for 500 or more dollars i will play the silicone lottery and so far I have been lucky!!!


Thanx for reinforcing that. I'm still a newcomer to the Enthusiast/Extreme world








I thought the L3 Cache was basically the only difference. The binning explains the price difference a bit more for me


----------



## Arm3nian

I don't think they're binned any differently. If they were, the X would get higher clocks on average than the K's, I have not seen this.


----------



## skupples

I would guess intel employee's would tell people w/e they want to hear... Or maybe they even have their own misconceptions about the hardware. It is a HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE corporation.


----------



## ZX2Slow

I think there is enough information on how different models and stepping clock. I don't think there is much of a difference between the 4930K and 4960X


----------



## Arm3nian

If it was binned better, why wouldn't they leak it somewhere saying it was. All that would do is potentially draw in more customers...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> If it was binned better, why wouldn't they leak it somewhere saying it was. All that would do is potentially draw in more customers...


it has leaked over the past 8 years several times. It is always a lottery with the chips even the ones binned higher.. and from what I have seen done by individuals is the x CPU's need a little lower volts and seem to run a little lower on temp. you can get a higher clock easier also from experience, so that might be an opinion...


----------



## Cool Mike

My RIVBE is running great. Spent s short amount of time overclocking my 4930k. Settled in at 4.6Ghz at 1.42V in bios (1.44V in CPUZ)
This cpu will not clock much over 4.6 unless you hit it with way too high volts. Seems most Ivy's are that way. Keep in mind that a 4930K @ 4.6 is like a 3930K at 4.8. I have owned both. Running 32gb 2400 memory at 10-12-12-30 timings. Intel Burn stable.
The Audio section definitely reviles PCIe based cards .

The pic below shows the overclocking panel installed in a 5.25 inch bay.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it has always been that the extreme chips were higher binned I dont think this is anything new. but for 500 or more dollars i will play the silicone lottery and so far I have been lucky!!!
> Look at these
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1240779/seans-windows-8-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1179518/seans-ssd-buyers-guide-information-thread
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1429829/configuring-ssd-and-hdds-after-installing-windows-7-using-seans-windows-install-guide
> 
> Just look in the storage guide on the forums if these do not have what you need or PM Sean Webster and he can give you a link for this.


Outstanding thanks! I found one over on the rog forum thats all i found so far i can't believe i forgot to look here!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it has leaked over the past 8 years several times. It is always a lottery with the chips even the ones binned higher.. and from what I have seen done by individuals is the x CPU's need a little lower volts and seem to run a little lower on temp. you can get a higher clock easier also from experience, so that might be an opinion...


I haven't seen any leeks by Intel. There is rarely any talk about the K vs the X to begin with.
Does the price imply a higher binned chip? Maybe, maybe it doesn't.


----------



## Redshift 91

I don't have any experience with SB-e, what's a good max voltage for a 24/7 OC? I can't seem to get 4.6 GHz stable at slightly <1.4v is it okay go increase the voltage further, or will I degrade my chip too fast?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I haven't seen any leeks by Intel. There is rarely any talk about the K vs the X to begin with.
> Does the price imply a higher binned chip? Maybe, maybe it doesn't.


CPU Binning
Based on the test result of class testing processors with the same capabilities are put into the same transporting trays. This process is called "binning," a process with which many Tom's Hardware readers will be familiar. Binning determines the maximum operating frequency of a processor, and batches are divided and sold according to stable specifications this was wrote by Tuan An Nguyen, Kevin Parrish, Intel CorporationJULY 18, 2009. it is a common practice to do this all companies bin the chips they make. Here is a *Link* to the first on the list when I googled this.. this is a very common practice and is is used in lots of different segments of industry!!

nothing magical or unusual about this!!!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> The A is part of the lot number. It has no meaning as far as the heat or voltage of a cpu, it may be relevant to one series of a particular cpu release, but nothing constant..
> 
> Where he has A - Stepping (A less voltage more heat, B more voltage less heat, C too rare to know advantages), that is just bad info.
> A don't always use less voltage or have more heat, B doesn't always use more voltage or have less heat, C aren't always rare or exceptional, they can be worse than A or B, or not.
> 
> Sometimes those descriptions might be accurate when looking at a cpu, but will change constantly.


Ah I wasn't referring to the the guy talking about C, the ones I found only talked about the differences between A and B which was quite similar to his shorter description. This had to have spawned from somewhere as it dates back pretty far, I"m reading through alot of the Intel documents on the site, dating back to when the Extreme Series first debuted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> My RIVBE is running great. Spent s short amount of time overclocking my 4930k. Settled in at 4.6Ghz at 1.42V in bios (1.44V in CPUZ)
> This cpu will not clock much over 4.6 unless you hit it with way too high volts. Seems most Ivy's are that way. Keep in mind that a 4930K @ 4.6 is like a 3930K at 4.8. I have owned both. Running 32gb 2400 memory at 10-12-12-30 timings. Intel Burn stable.
> The Audio section definitely reviles PCIe based cards .
> 
> The pic below shows the overclocking panel installed in a 5.25 inch bay.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Glad to hear about the sound card, and grats, added you to the OC panel on the OP









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I haven't seen any leeks by Intel. There is rarely any talk about the K vs the X to begin with.
> Does the price imply a higher binned chip? *Maybe, maybe it doesn't*.


For this reason I want to make a section for everyone on how well their CPU's stack up, since IVY-E only has 3-4 cpu's that released it seems, it'll be easier to keep track, as the majority here are running 4930k's with the exception of 1 - 2 X's granted we all have the same board, this will definitely help gain some statistics, we can compare batches, CPU's , etc. May prove fruitless but it'll be interesting to see.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I don't have any experience with SB-e, what's a good max voltage for a 24/7 OC? I can't seem to get 4.6 GHz stable at slightly <1.4v is it okay go increase the voltage further, or will I degrade my chip too fast?


I'm also curious what the normal voltage limit is before you're really lowering the life expectancy.


----------



## 113802

Can't get 4.5/4.6Ghz stable for the life of me! I can easily benchmark on those speeds but not prime95 stable and they both require 1.45v! Running 4.4Ghz @ 1.36v stable


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Can't get 4.5/4.6Ghz stable for the life of me! I can easily benchmark on those speeds but not prime95 stable and they both require 1.45v! Running 4.4Ghz @ 1.36v stable


4930k? Sounds about right. This is the reason why I just went with the 3930k for now... I don't buy the snake oil of the magical motherboard. I do how ever buy the magical motherboard.


----------



## maxxx.ph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Can't get 4.5/4.6Ghz stable for the life of me! I can easily benchmark on those speeds but not prime95 stable and they both require 1.45v! Running 4.4Ghz @ 1.36v stable


Prime95 is also doing this to me on the 4930k and R4E combo but it's only that. So far, it has been stable on games (BF3/4, Far Cry 3, Splinter Cell) and Photoshop/Lightroom. The R4BE is on test bench, I'll experiment with that.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 4930k? Sounds about right. This is the reason why I just went with the 3930k for now... I don't buy the snake oil of the magical motherboard. I do how ever buy the magical motherboard.


Hmmm makes me wonder how my 4820k is going to do in this board? Hopefully someone will come along with one so I can see.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Hmmm makes me wonder how my 4820k is going to do in this board? Hopefully someone will come along with one so I can see.


Could I ask why a 4820 instead of a 6 core 4930?? With this nice of a board and all the other parts you are getting I think i would get the 4820!!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> CPU Binning
> Based on the test result of class testing processors with the same capabilities are put into the same transporting trays. This process is called "binning," a process with which many Tom's Hardware readers will be familiar. Binning determines the maximum operating frequency of a processor, and batches are divided and sold according to stable specifications this was wrote by Tuan An Nguyen, Kevin Parrish, Intel CorporationJULY 18, 2009. it is a common practice to do this all companies bin the chips they make. Here is a *Link* to the first on the list when I googled this.. this is a very common practice and is is used in lots of different segments of industry!!
> 
> nothing magical or unusual about this!!!


I know the definition of binning...

What I'm saying is Intel has never said the X are higher binned. They are priced at that because they have extra cache, higher clock speed (doesn't matter for oc), and the best CPU, so they can price it at whatever they want because they have no competition from AMD. From what I've seen on many forums and benches, the K are binned the same as the X, the only thing that matters is if you win the silicon lottery.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> For what it's worth and what I've been told ( as stated before from a fellow associate @ our drill ( works for intel ) ) that the X chips are K chips that have simply been binned, so it's pretty much not just the 3mb cache and .1ghz but they're pretty much cherry picked, THAT is the only reason I'm paying higher, JUST in case as I hate dealing w/ return policies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I can find it, there were a few reddit threads from intel employees discussing this as well. Granted take this with a grain of salt, but this is what I've gone by after confirming with a few sources. Nothing wrong w/ the 4930k and I hear some achieve the same as an X as well as better.
> 
> X is X for a reason.


Hmm ya, I've read similar stuff. I wonder if we took all the average overclocks of the 4930K's and 4960X's, if the X's would indeed turn out to have a higher overclock.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Hmm ya, I've read similar stuff. I wonder if we took all the average overclocks of the 4930K's and 4960X's, if the X's would indeed turn out to have a higher overclock.


This way isn't very accurate because there is a chance most most of the X have better silicon the K samples, and vise-versa. Still the only way to test it, other than just asking Intel


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I know the definition if binning...
> 
> What I'm saying is Intel has never said the X are higher binned. They are priced at that because they have extra cache, higher clock speed (doesn't matter for oc), and the best CPU, so they can price it at whatever they want because they have no competition from AMD. From what I've seen on many forums and benches, the K are binned the same as the X, the only thing that matters is if you win the silicon lottery.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Hmm ya, I've read similar stuff. I wonder if we took all the average overclocks of the 4930K's and 4960X's, if the X's would indeed turn out to have a higher overclock.


I do agree the silicone Lottery is the most important thing. the 2nd most important thing would be the silicone lottery on the M/B because this is going to have something to do with it also and 3rd would be the memory.. the skill and luck of the person doing the O/C plays a big part also...

really to get a true scientific average of just the CPU's we would need the person and all the other parts to remain the same!! LOL I think that would be good I would be intereseted in seeing what you said CallsignVega I was just playing about the scientific....

As far as the X CPU's being binned higher all you will ever find is hints here and there that say yes and no I do not believe Intel will ever say because a definite answer could hurt business no matter what the answer is. but in my mind I believe, I cant prove it but I believe that it makes business sense to do this so that you have less problems with the Higher priced CPU's... this is the reason I tend to believe this rumor and partial truths we read and have got from Intel....

In a way your statement actually proves they Bin the X higher due to the definition of Binning..
Quote:


> " They are priced at that because they have extra cache, higher clock speed (doesn't matter for oc), and the best CPU"


LOL we can argue and find and make points all we want but it is something that will never be know 100% I do not believe. Because not knowing actually helps Intel


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I do agree the silicone Lottery is the most important thing. the 2nd most important thing would be the silicone lottery on the M/B because this is going to have something to do with it also and 3rd would be the memory.. the skill and luck of the person doing the O/C plays a big part also...
> 
> really to get a true scientific average of just the CPU's we would need the person and all the other parts to remain the same!! LOL I think that would be good I would be intereseted in seeing what you said CallsignVega I was just playing about the scientific....
> 
> As far as the X CPU's being binned higher all you will ever find is hints here and there that say yes and no I do not believe Intel will ever say because a definite answer could hurt business no matter what the answer is. but in my mind I believe, I cant prove it but I believe that it makes business sense to do this so that you have less problems with the Higher priced CPU's... this is the reason I tend to believe this rumor and partial truths we read and have got from Intel....
> 
> In a way your statement actually proves they Bin the X higher due to the definition of Binning..
> LOL we can argue and find and make points all we want but it is something that will never be know 100% I do not believe. Because not knowing actually helps Intel


Yeah we will never know for sure, unless someone buys a hundred samples of each processor and tests them on the same rig, although that might result in their house being forclosed









Taking averages from the people on here is most likely the best way to do it, we would need a lot of people to contribute though, for all we know the K group can end up getting higher clocks. I'm interested myself, I'm still debating which one to get.


----------



## maxxx.ph

One of (or is) the brains of our beloved board goes....
http://hwbot.org/newsflash/2314_shamino_leaves_asus_follows_andreyang_in_retirement


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxxx.ph*
> 
> One of (or is) the brains of our beloved board goes....
> http://hwbot.org/newsflash/2314_shamino_leaves_asus_follows_andreyang_in_retirement


This board was his masterpiece. It has legendary overclocking potential hidden for us to find!









Too bad NCIX still hasn't shipped my motherboard even though they called me and said they would ship it and upload a tracking # today...


----------



## cruzdi

Thanks Luna P and Redshift 91 for your help in my code 34. Indeed it was a bad cable connection to the GTX 780. I can now get to the UEFI. I am sure I will need your help again.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Could I ask why a 4820 instead of a 6 core 4930?? With this nice of a board and all the other parts you are getting I think i would get the 4820!!


Honestly I don't have a good answer for you except that just trying to save some money. When the time comes around for me to order the board and the processor if the money is there I might consider it. But honestly will I ever see any real world differences between the 2? Steer me right master...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Honestly I don't have a good answer for you except that just trying to save some money. When the time comes around for me to order the board and the processor if the money is there I might consider it. But honestly will I ever see any real world differences between the 2? Steer me right master...


it really depends on what you will be doing..

gaming no..

using programs to encode, cad or adobe will use the 6 cores and you will see difference..


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it really depends on what you will be doing..
> 
> gaming no..
> 
> using programs to encode, cad or adobe will use the 6 cores and you will see difference..


I do some video editing nothing too serious thou, just making game captures using fraps and changing from avi to mpg using windows movie maker. I run a YouTube Channel for a MMO Guild that goes over character builds etc. A 16 min video took my current rig with a 3570k OC to 4.4ghz about 13mins to convert the file from Avi to mpeg. Other than that, that's probably all the encoding video editing I will do. To be honest my plans for this build are this. Bad-ass gaming system that I won't have to upgrade for some time, other than that, just adding neat stuff to the build. I plan on rocking this build until it can't run games to my satisfaction anymore, or it blows up. I will be overclocking to maximize performance to the highest I can on a H100i and running some benches etc. I am a gamer at heart but I enjoy building and tweaking this stuff. (comes from being a gear-head, boat mechanic by trade). Let me know what you think. I've been updating my link in Pcparticker with the components that I currently have and others that are either on the way or will be shorty after tax time.


----------



## marc0053

Is the onboard audio for RIVBE worth ditching an xonar essence STX?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxxx.ph*
> 
> One of (or is) the brains of our beloved board goes....
> http://hwbot.org/newsflash/2314_shamino_leaves_asus_follows_andreyang_in_retirement


thats a shame, i hope they can get someone to replace him who is just as good if not better.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I do some video editing nothing too serious thou, just making game captures using fraps and changing from avi to mpg using windows movie maker. I run a YouTube Channel for a MMO Guild that goes over character builds etc. A 16 min video took my current rig with a 3570k OC to 4.4ghz about 13mins to convert the file from Avi to mpeg. Other than that, that's probably all the encoding video editing I will do. To be honest my plans for this build are this. Bad-ass gaming system that I won't have to upgrade for some time, other than that, just adding neat stuff to the build. I plan on rocking this build until it can't run games to my satisfaction anymore, or it blows up. I will be overclocking to maximize performance to the highest I can on a H100i and running some benches etc. I am a gamer at heart but I enjoy building and tweaking this stuff. (comes from being a gear-head, boat mechanic by trade). Let me know what you think. I've been updating my link in Pcparticker with the components that I currently have and others that are either on the way or will be shorty after tax time.


man it is really up to you and your wallet but I would consider at least getting a 3930K it is not much more than the processor you have. do you need it no, will you use it?? overclocks good and can tell difference when encoding and games are starting to be more multi-threaded..


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> man it is really up to you and your wallet but I would consider at least getting a 3930K it is not much more than the processor you have. do you need it no, will you use it?? overclocks good and can tell difference when encoding and games are starting to be more multi-threaded..


If you believe that going to the 4930k over the 4820k will help and benefit me as far as helping to "future proof" I will take a long hard look at it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> If you believe that going to the 4930k over the 4820k will help and benefit me as far as helping to "future proof" I will take a long hard look at it.


I am really surprise no one else has said anything about this. I do a lot of video work and edit pictures, so I love the 6 core. it is the latest and best right now for us. in my mind games are going to become more and more multithreaded. but I know for 200 dollars it might not be worth it but why buy the best board and not get the best cpu??


----------



## javecodebbs

i like it very much, Heart goes out to those that ordered from NCIX. Really hope things go through for everyone !thanks


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> If you believe that going to the 4930k over the 4820k will help and benefit me as far as helping to "future proof" I will take a long hard look at it.


I am really surprise no one else has said anything about this. I do a lot of video work and edit pictures, so I love the 6 core. it is the latest and best right now for us. in my mind games are going to become more and more multithreaded. but I know for 200 dollars it might not be worth it but why buy the best board and not get the best cpu??


----------



## Cool Mike

Hello Everyone. Wow, doing some memory overclocking this morning and sure enough the Black is much better than the RIVE and the X79 Deluxe.

I am running 4X8 (32GB) Patriot Viper Extreme that are spec'd at 10-12-12-30. My overclock is like a 500+ dollar set of memory.
125BCLK is key. 4625 is the most I can squeeze out of the cpu with this high memory speed. I will try lowering the memory control Voltage.
This is running 32gb memory!









*Update: Passed 32MB superPi
FAILED Intel Burn









Settings:
*BCLK - 125
Multi - 37
CPU Core Freq - 4,625
Memory Freq. - 2666
Timings- 11-13-13-35
Memory Controller voltage set to 1.33V in bios
Memory Controller droop setting - extreme
Memory Voltage - 1.67V in bios


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Hmmm makes me wonder how my 4820k is going to do in this board? Hopefully someone will come along with one so I can see.


While the sample size seems to be less, 4820k's seem to be the OC exception with IVY-E.

Well, they shipped my package second day air. That likely means i'll be waiting till monday/tuesday, but @least I have proof it's OTW! well, I have proof they created a shipping label.


----------



## Cool Mike

Great news you will be receiving your MOBO very soon.


----------



## ZX2Slow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> Running 32gb 2400 memory at 10-12-12-30 timings. Intel Burn stable.


What VTT / VCCSA was needed?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> Great news you will be receiving your MOBO very soon.




Yessir! Though, it looks like UPS still has yet to pick it up from them. All I know is that the label exists. They still lied to me though. They told me it would be sent overnight, but the shipping option on ups track shows 2 day air. So, looks like it will be here monday or tuesday. Saturday if i'm super lucky. Hopefully the tracking info will update @ some point today. I have seen 2 day air not update until it's arrived @ the final destination for delivery.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> If you believe that going to the 4930k over the 4820k will help and benefit me as far as helping to "future proof" I will take a long hard look at it.


Since you stated MMO's and other things outside of gaming, I'll say this. Having the extra cores is nice, as well as the overhead, and extra benefits. Some MMO's are more CPU intensive than they are GPU intesive as well. Will you honestly see a benefit depending, maybe maybe not, but at the same time at least you'll know you have it and you'll be good for whatever comes your way especially any hobbies of the sort









For me, peace of mind, knowing if I need to set affinity I can set to any thread I want, and still keep pushing, I've never gone over 20% CPU and am almost always between 2-5% on my current 980X
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am really surprise no one else has said anything about this. I do a lot of video work and edit pictures, so I love the 6 core. it is the latest and best right now for us. in my mind games are going to become more and more multithreaded. but I know for 200 dollars it might not be worth it but why buy the best board and not get the best cpu??


For editing/photo work etc, it does shave off time, if 3-10 seconds or more matters, it's worth the bump. I also agree w/ the above statement , if you're spending 500$ on a board, no reason to gimp out on the CPU







though again let's not forget user preference, there's nothing wrong w/ getting what you want unless it's something people heavily advise against, then it's stepping in to save a bad decision








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Yessir! Though, it looks like UPS still has yet to pick it up from them. All I know is that the label exists. They still lied to me though. They told me it would be sent overnight, but the shipping option on ups track shows 2 day air. So, looks like it will be here monday or tuesday. Saturday if i'm super lucky. Hopefully the tracking info will update @ some point today. I have seen 2 day air not update until it's arrived @ the final destination for delivery.


Do you already have your post script ready to send to them after you get your package? I know I do.

Also turns out they never even shipped mine even though they called







I wrote to them about it and still have yet to hear back since yesterday afternoon.


----------



## Cool Mike

VTT = 1.25
VCCSA = 1.3
Extreme VCCSA Droop setting.


----------



## cadaveca

Memory OC is easy with IVB-E, so much different than SB-E on this board.

4625 @ 37x 125, 1.3 V, VTT @ 1.25 V, VCCSA @ 1.15V:










What BIOS is everyone else using? I am on 0208?


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Is the onboard audio for RIVBE worth ditching an xonar essence STX?


I have the same sound card in my present rig. As I was in the middle of a case mod (and also very busy) I have not as yet built my R4BE rig but I hope to do it in the next few days so. Sound quality, very high end sound quality is something that I pay a lot of attention to so I am hoping that the built in sound is as good as my Xonar. I will post when I develop an opinion.


----------



## BaldGuy

I installed the RIVBE last night into my HAF X. I noticed that despite the claim its an E-ATX board, it only takes 9 standoff's/screws. According to the HAF X case, these are suppose to take 12.

I'm sort of glad really, as it don't cover my grommets as it would if it was big enough to reach the 12 holds I had standoff's in for it. Its nowhere even close!!

I still got more building to do before I can test it, but in my HAF X, with 8 sticks of G Skill Z memory in it, its really a thing of beauty.


----------



## kpoeticg

Asus EATX isn't the same size as the EATX Spec. This is pretty well known. It's somewhere between regular ATX and regular EATX. The RIVE is the same


----------



## ZX2Slow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> VTT = 1.25
> VCCSA = 1.3
> Extreme VCCSA Droop setting.


Is that the auto setting, that seems high unless your kit is a 8x4GB.


----------



## DBaer

I feel so guilty, some of you are still waiting for your board and I have had mine for three days and it is not out of the box yet. Yes I have installed the OC panel in my case to see how it looks and I have studied the manual but alas, my case mod is not quite done, I have had clients with end of year projects and issues up the kazoo, I have had volunteer work I had committed to and this weekend is a big game beta, and family is arriving for the holiday, so many pesky RL interruptions.... I do feel a little guilty though and I hope y'all get your R4BE today..(true)


----------



## HydrasunGQ

Finally got mine.

http://s110.photobucket.com/user/HydrasunGQ/media/RIVBE/IMG_0472_zps190f78e2.jpg.html


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thats a shame,


Well, he's *Sham*ino.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I'm sort of glad really, as it don't cover my grommets as it would if it was big enough to reach the 12 holds I had standoff's in for it. Its nowhere even close!!


Personally, I'd prefer 12 screws for better board stability. and perhaps some form of backplate to strengthen board for really heavy heatsinks.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> I have the same sound card in my present rig. As I was in the middle of a case mod (and also very busy) I have not as yet built my R4BE rig but I hope to do it in the next few days so. Sound quality, very high end sound quality is something that I pay a lot of attention to so I am hoping that the built in sound is as good as my Xonar. I will post when I develop an opinion.


I'm really looking forward to you opinion on the sound quality








I could sell this sound card for about 140$ and invest that towards the RIVBE!


----------



## RSharpe

Well, this was a surprise! I wasn't expecting this until next week...


----------



## saer

^from newegg or ?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> I feel so guilty, some of you are still waiting for your board and I have had mine for three days and it is not out of the box yet. Yes I have installed the OC panel in my case to see how it looks and I have studied the manual but alas, my case mod is not quite done, I have had clients with end of year projects and issues up the kazoo, I have had volunteer work I had committed to and this weekend is a big game beta, and family is arriving for the holiday, so many pesky RL interruptions.... I do feel a little guilty though and I hope y'all get your R4BE today..(true)


Same, especially skupples, we've all been mislead / lied to heavily but man they've been giving him the worst run around. There should honestly be a section of OC to rank online stores so people know where NOT to order from, if we did something like that Companies would pay more attention given the amount of attention OCN gets.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HydrasunGQ*
> 
> Finally got mine.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s110.photobucket.com/user/HydrasunGQ/media/RIVBE/IMG_0472_zps190f78e2.jpg.html


w00t w00t! Welcome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Well, this was a surprise! I wasn't expecting this until next week...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


w00 gratz!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> ^from newegg or ?


Yes do tell us


----------



## saer

I got my tracking number from NCIX-US last night but even now it still doesn't show as being picked up by UPS yet, starting to think they printed out labels for tracking numbers before even receiving the boards


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> ^from newegg or ?


From Newegg. I cancelled my NCIX preorder the moment Newegg.ca was in stock on Tuesday.


----------



## ugotd8

Congrats to all on getting this beautiful board. I don't currently own one (I have the RIVE) and I'm subscribing to see one particular thing about this board.

On the RIVE we have to deal with VRMs that overheat and cause throttling, which in turn requires VRM water or air cooling. Curious to see if anyone notices an improvement in this area.

Enjoy.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> I got my tracking number from NCIX-US last night but even now it still doesn't show as being picked up by UPS yet, starting to think they printed out labels for tracking numbers before even receiving the boards


I still haven't got my tracking number or confirmation that my board has been shipped. I was 13th on the preorder list... this is ridiculous.

And they called me yesterday saying that it will be shipped and the # uploaded that very day...


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> On the RIVE we have to deal with VRMs that overheat and cause throttling, which in turn requires VRM water or air cooling. Curious to see if anyone notices an improvement in this area.


HUGE difference compared to past X79 boards that I have played with. That cover over the rear I/O soaks up a good amount of heat and is all "metal", not non-functional eye-candy plastic. Chipset cooler barely gets warm. I have two boards, both are the same in that regard.


----------



## saer

Very curious myself if this board needs a full waterblock or not, I know most say its just for aesthetics









Would it be possible/realistic to run 5ghz daily without a mobo block ?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Very curious myself if this board needs a full waterblock or not, I know most say its just for aesthetics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would it be possible/realistic to run 5ghz daily without a mobo block ?


You talking about IB-E on water or LN2?

Edit: Just noticed you said "daily" so obviously you don't mean LN2

Maybe with a chiller or something. Or "Maybe" with SB-E instead of IB-E

You'd have to be the billion dollar jackpot silicon lottery winner to get IB-E to clock to 5.0 on normal cooling. At least that's the way it looks right now...


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Very curious myself if this board needs a full waterblock or not, I know most say its just for aesthetics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would it be possible/realistic to run 5ghz daily without a mobo block ?


ON the mobo? Yeah, I think it'll be fine with 250W of power draw with light airflow. I'm using aircooling - a CoolerMaster TPC-812, and it is not enough for those sorts of clocks for me, so I cannot say for sure.

What I can say is that my 4600/2666 clock is pulling 180W, and the heatsink might be 45C under high load (cinebench, Prime95, etc, etc).

That said, I am using an open test bench. Honestly, I'm pretty amazed by the amount of heat that single heatpipe tranfsers to the rear I/O cover. There might be a 5 degree delta between the small primary heatsink and the I/o cover.

if you're gonna run a triplet or quad of VGAs on air, then, yeah, you might wanna consider that block. Otherwise this board is built like a tank, really.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, for any type of "Normal/Daily" circumstances, i can't see the mobo waterblock being anything but aesthetics and just cooling for the sake of cooling. It seems like the board has much better clocking capabilities than the CPU's it's running

That being said, I will most definitely be one of the first people buying an EK Block for my board







(As long as they make one in copper instead of nickel)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I still haven't got my tracking number or confirmation that my board has been shipped. I was 13th on the preorder list... this is ridiculous.
> 
> And they called me yesterday saying that it will be shipped and the # uploaded that very day...


They finally responded and said that it MISSED the shipping deadline for yesterday, and that they will reattempt to send it out tonight, and of course first thing I verified was if it was overnight or not, nope, they're doing 2 - 3 day shipping. I called BS directly @ them as when they called yesterday they explicitly stated it had been shipped out already to me, and I would have my tracking number shortly. So yeah gonna put a huge disclaimer to stray from NCIX, this company is BEYOND shady, I'd trust Ebay and Craigslist over them any day.


----------



## foto69man

Newegg release date is 25 Nov...my birthday is 26 Nov...and payday is 29 Nov. Hopefully I will be joining this club rather soon


----------



## binormalkilla

If anyone has booted Linux on this board, would you mind posting the output of:

Code:



Code:


$lspci

with at least the 802.11ac wifi enabled?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> I got my tracking number from NCIX-US last night but even now it still doesn't show as being picked up by UPS yet, starting to think they printed out labels for tracking numbers before even receiving the boards


Same, I think they are producing labels, & BS'ing once again. REMEMBER it's Holiday season, shipping numbers take up to 24 hours to register in the system... Iv'e also seen 2 day shipping not show up in the system until it arrived on the delivery end of the trip. Then all the stops popped up @ once. I have Megan's private NCIX email, going to email her asking if they simply produced the labels, & didn't actually send anything out. This would be an amazingly shady practice to keep people from requesting refund. "oh but we already sent it out already! It's in UPS' hand's now!"


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Same, I think they are producing labels, & BS'ing once again. REMEMBER it's Holiday season, shipping numbers take up to 24 hours to register in the system... Iv'e also seen 2 day shipping not show up in the system until it arrived on the delivery end of the trip. Then all the stops popped up @ once. I have Megan's private NCIX email, going to email her asking if they simply produced the labels, & didn't actually send anything out. This would be an amazingly shady practice to keep people from requesting refund. "oh but we already sent it out already! It's in UPS' hand's now!"


Don't bother Megan's in on it too, she's the one that told me that it was "overnight shipping" while the rep's are saying they just spoke to her and swear overnight was never mentioned yet I have several emails stating it was going to be sent overnight when received. "I do apologize if you feel you were mislead"

I threw back the email @ them showing their response on how they said overnight and not express as I clearly spelled both out, and they haven't said a thing since.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Don't bother Megan's in on it too, she's the one that told me that it was "overnight shipping" while the rep's are saying they just spoke to her and swear overnight was never mentioned yet I have several emails stating it was going to be sent overnight when received. "I do apologize if you feel you were mislead"
> 
> I threw back the email @ them showing their response on how they said overnight and not express as I clearly spelled both out, and they haven't said a thing since.


That is amazing that you are all getting screwed around so much. Many of us have just been following this story for the last few weeks and at first I thought Ho Hum, they just made a bad guess on who could get it to them first but as this has progressed I can totally understand your frustration. May I suggest a series of complaints to the Better Business Bureau?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> That is amazing that you are all getting screwed around so much. Many of us have just been following this story for the last few weeks and at first I thought Ho Hum, they just made a bad guess on who could get it to them first but as this has progressed I can totally understand your frustration. May I suggest a series of complaints to the Better Business Bureau?


I'll be doing something to poop on their front door after 24 hours has passed on the shipping label. I mean, they told us wednesday, OOP NEVER MIND FRIDAY! Then thursday they call everyone & say shipping #'s inc!....


----------



## Redshift 91

I was testing my 3930k at 4.5 (it takes 1.4v to be stable, I think I got a bad one) and the vrm heatsinks were HOT. I wasn't really considering watercooling the chipset, but I may reconsider getting a vrm block if anyone releases one separately of the chipset block. Like EK did with the RIVF.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I was testing my 3930k at 4.5 (it takes 1.4v to be stable, I think I got a bad one) and the vrm heatsinks were HOT. I wasn't really considering watercooling the chipset, but I may reconsider getting a vrm block if anyone releases one separately of the chipset block. Like EK did with the RIVF.


I'm assuming we will be able to get the VRM block separate from the chipset block. It's not truly a one piece block since theirs no open space to route one.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I was testing my 3930k at 4.5 (it takes 1.4v to be stable, I think I got a bad one) and the vrm heatsinks were HOT. I wasn't really considering watercooling the chipset, but I may reconsider getting a vrm block if anyone releases one separately of the chipset block. Like EK did with the RIVF.


Meh, you've gotta be close to that 250W, if not a wee bit more with dual VGAs, but you also might be able to paly with VRM settings to lower heat there.







Adding card on adds quite a large amount of power consumption.

I did test also with 3960X, pulling 242 W through 8-pin @ 4.6 GHz/2133(1.375V and 1.15V VCCSA), and it wasn't really that hot. Warm, yes, of course. Burning? Not really.









I use an in-line meter to test 8-pin power draw.


----------



## gardening

Hi,

I am a bit curious:

could someone who already has the board running (or knows for sure by another way) take a look for the exact name of the non-X79 6GB/s controllers?
I'm not that sure about ASM1061 also counting for the grey 6GB/s connectors like stated in the specs.

Thank you and fingers crossed for all, who still wait for the board's arrival


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Very curious myself if this board needs a full waterblock or not, I know most say its just for aesthetics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would it be possible/realistic to run 5ghz daily without a mobo block ?


You would have to be real lucky to run this 24/7 at 5ghz with or without a M/B block.. and I really thing the M/B blocks are just for bling but I have one and really like it....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NCIX Manager*
> She indicated that it will be sent via overnight, not that it would arrive overnight being that it is shipped from our supplier directly and overnight delivery is not available however 2 day delivery is just as fast as long as you don't live outside the US. You're free to believe what you want but not once have we ever lied to anyone, you should happy you're even getting it instead of complaining, *I don't see you yelling at New Egg because they're out again*.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gardening*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am a bit curious:
> 
> could someone who already has the board running (or knows for sure by another way) take a look for the exact name of the non-X79 6GB/s controllers?
> I'm not that sure about ASM1061 also counting for the grey 6GB/s connectors like stated in the specs.
> 
> Thank you and fingers crossed for all, who still wait for the board's arrival


I'm pretty sure these are them



There's some other Asmedia chips around the PCIE area but the 1061's line up with the Sata 6Gbps slots

Don't all the Sata II slots run through the PCH? Doesn't seem to make much sense to add another 3Gbps controller


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*


Good lord man... I'm definitely filing with the BBB after all of this. Just need to round up all the BS emails, & get it all nice & pretty. 18 hours after receiving my tracking number, it's still not checked in. I ordered a keyboard from NewEgg this morning... GUESS WHAT? It's already otw to me...

The built in order info on NCIX is still non-updated to the shipping stage... hrmmmm!


----------



## skupples

oh btw, this...



so... This means to me that they have actually checked in 10 units, but that they won't actually be shipping to you or i until next week. So, the UPS labels are just another shoddy attempt @ keeping the money in, while they get the board in, now that they have actually locked down units.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Meh, you've gotta be close to that 250W, if not a wee bit more with dual VGAs, but you also might be able to paly with VRM settings to lower heat there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding card on adds quite a large amount of power consumption.
> 
> I did test also with 3960X, pulling 242 W through 8-pin @ 4.6 GHz/2133(1.375V and 1.15V VCCSA), and it wasn't really that hot. Warm, yes, of course. Burning? Not really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use an in-line meter to test 8-pin power draw.


I've actually flipped the dip switches to off for lanes 2, 3, and 4 so olny 1 GPU's running right now. I'm still sleeving my x-1250 so I've only got a 750 PCP&C unit to run at the moment. I pumped the 3930k all the way up to 1.53v and 4.6GHz wouldn't even boot. I'm not sure if it's me lacking experience or the cpu not leaking enough, but something's not right here. 4.5's good at 1.43v, I haven't seen it over 55c since I performed the reflow on the indigo xtreme.

I know there's a lot of fine tuning I can do, but I at least want to hit 4.6and do 15 min on prime95 before I start honing it in. I may have to sit at 4.4 until a few bios updates come out.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> oh btw, this...
> 
> 
> 
> so... This means to me that they have actually checked in 10 units, but that they won't actually be shipping to you or i until next week. So, the UPS labels are just another shoddy attempt @ keeping the money in, while they get the board in, now that they have actually locked down units.


pretty much the pre-order was just to get your money so they can purchase the goods and make a clean profit ..what else is new ?..lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> pretty much the pre-order was just to get your money so they can purchase the goods and make a clean profit ..what else is new ?..lol


This may be SOP for NCIX, but I have NEVER in 10 years of pre-ordering things had an experience like this. Billing on day one, before Asus had even pushed it's first release date of oct 31'st should of been enough for me to pull my money back, run & hide. This is definitely my first, & only time doing business with NCIX.


----------



## coolhandluke41

when they took the money (unlike Egg ) it was all down hill,I never purchased anything from them and won't after this

EDIT; it seems to me like more and more company's exercise this behavior (AMD is one of them and it's a big one )


----------



## yttocstfarc

Lookie what I got in the mail today



#1 of 3


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> oh btw, this...
> 
> 
> 
> so... This means to me that they have actually checked in 10 units, but that they won't actually be shipping to you or i until next week. So, the UPS labels are just another shoddy attempt @ keeping the money in, while they get the board in, now that they have actually locked down units.


Exactly, my tracking information still doesn't reflect that UPS has received anything from NCIX. Its been 24 hours since I got my tracking..

My assumptions of them pre-printing shipping lables to give us tracking numbers prior to them even having the boards seems to be right on the mark.

As if it couldn't get any worse, talk about some real scumbag tactics.. Wow..


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Exactly, my tracking information still doesn't reflect that UPS has received anything from NCIX. Its been 24 hours since I got my tracking..
> 
> My assumptions of them pre-printing shipping lables to give us tracking numbers prior to them even having the boards seems to be right on the mark.
> 
> As if it couldn't get any worse, talk about some real scumbag tactics.. Wow..


I just realized after looking @ the tracking info on the label they gave me that they JUST created the label, = they haven't even sent anything to UPS , and claimed yesterday it was already OVERNIGHTED with them, then today w/ the OVERNIGHT = 2 days be lucky we're even sending it BS..

I'm waiting to see what the story is next wee, that UPS is giving them false dates etc, and becomes the new ASUS lol...

(wow my comp restarted w/ a click while writing this and it was still here when I loaded back nice~ )


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure these are them
> 
> 
> 
> There's some other Asmedia chips around the PCIE area but the 1061's line up with the Sata 6Gbps slots
> 
> Don't all the Sata II slots run through the PCH? Doesn't seem to make much sense to add another 3Gbps controller


where those chips are doesn't directly correlate to which ports they power. the top 6 ports are driven by the X79 PCH. The darker ports are the SATA 3 Gb/s ports, the first set of lighter ports are the SATA 6 Gb/s off the X79 PCH, and the bottom two are powered by the ASMedia chips, and can be disabled in the BIOS


----------



## TK101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I just realized after looking @ the tracking info on the label they gave me that they JUST created the label, = they haven't even sent anything to UPS , and claimed yesterday it was already OVERNIGHTED with them, then today w/ the OVERNIGHT = 2 days be lucky we're even sending it BS..
> 
> I'm waiting to see what the story is next wee, that UPS is giving them false dates etc, and becomes the new ASUS lol...
> 
> (wow my comp restarted w/ a click while writing this and it was still here when I loaded back nice~ )


Oddly enough I ordered my CPU cooler Wednesday 9am their time from NCIX. Requested next day shipping... I finally got a tracking last night after calling 4 times. Just to find out it's 2 day air because their shipping facility doesn't have next day air.. How in the hell do they not know that? On a side note they comped my shipping. I doubt I'll get it tomorrow.


----------



## Porgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*


Oh hells no! That last line would have made me lose my ****. I would have been laying mushroom clouds on that manager. Happy to be getting it? He should be everyone happy hasn't jumped ship on NCIX and demanded full refunds. I'm front of the line on the next newegg batch since my preorder didn't get filled on the first shipment but I'll still most likely get mine before first shipment of NCIX hit doorsteps. Thankful my hard earned dollar isn't going to their pockets.


----------



## gardening

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure these are them
> 
> 
> 
> There's some other Asmedia chips around the PCIE area but the 1061's line up with the Sata 6Gbps slots
> 
> Don't all the Sata II slots run through the PCH? Doesn't seem to make much sense to add another 3Gbps controller


Thank you very much for your effort.

As far as I understand the specs the two eSATAs get controlled by the ASMedias (as they are usually used for those).

I am asking bcs all other recently released boards with 4 additional controllers had the newer 2 lane Marvel 9230 as controllers, beside the X79-Deluxe who has the Marvel's for 4 extra 6GB/S connectors *and* 2 ASMedia's for non-RAID able additional 6GB/s but no eSATA's (kind of switched the connector version).
It's also the first of the newer ones without SSD Caching II mentioned => might be hint that the Marvel are indeed not used on this board.
So this board seems only being able to RAID via Intel. Marvel offeres a non-OS simple RAID (as in usually only RAID o or RAID 1), something that might be interesting for scratch disks (editing...)
Very curious...


----------



## gardening

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> where those chips are doesn't directly correlate to which ports they power. the top 6 ports are driven by the X79 PCH. The darker ports are the SATA 3 Gb/s ports, the first set of lighter ports are the SATA 6 Gb/s off the X79 PCH, and the bottom two are powered by the ASMedia chips, and can be disabled in the BIOS


Ahh didn't see this in time. So you are sure they only used the 1061?
I like the extra RAID possibility of the other boards and the Marvel aren't as bad anymore speedwise...
http://techreport.com/review/25310/asus-x79-deluxe-motherboard-reviewed/5


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly, my tracking information still doesn't reflect that UPS has received anything from NCIX. Its been 24 hours since I got my tracking..
> 
> My assumptions of them pre-printing shipping lables to give us tracking numbers prior to them even having the boards seems to be right on the mark.
> 
> 
> 
> As if it couldn't get any worse, talk about some real scumbag tactics.. Wow..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just realized after looking @ the tracking info on the label they gave me that they JUST created the label, = they haven't even sent anything to UPS , and claimed yesterday it was already OVERNIGHTED with them, then today w/ the OVERNIGHT = 2 days be lucky we're even sending it BS..
> 
> I'm waiting to see what the story is next wee, that UPS is giving them false dates etc, and becomes the new ASUS lol...
> 
> (wow my comp restarted w/ a click while writing this and it was still here when I loaded back nice~
> 
> 
> )


They have definitely gone the extra mile to remove any liability from them selves, & to protect them selves from any more lost pre-orders. As soon as they verified the in-transit units they created the online labels. What she doesn't know is that i delivered for UPS over a period of 2.5 years. It doesn't take UPS this long to scan in packages 2 weeks before Xmas. Normally they scan @ pickup, then scan @ facility, then scan again when departing.


----------



## CallsignVega

I wonder how warm these boards are getting with IB-E, and if a water block is really needed anymore. I know with the regular RIVE and a SB-E clocked 5+ GHz, the VRM's would get super hot.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> I wonder how warm these boards are getting with IB-E, and if a water block is really needed anymore. I know with the regular RIVE and a SB-E clocked 5+ GHz, the VRM's would get super hot.


on some reviews once overclocked people reported that the heatsinks were getting hot to the touch to the point they couldnt keep their hands on them for very long.


----------



## BOB850123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Make sure to post in the Club section, also what error code are you getting, I'm trying to gather them all up and fill in a section I made for it.


I found that b5 means your a dumbass and put the ram in the wrong slots.







System is up and running now.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BOB850123*
> 
> I found that b5 means your a dumbass and put the ram in the wrong slots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> System is up and running now.


\

lol not sure if I should quote that in the error section or reword haha


----------



## szeged

wonder if we will see any get a cyber monday deal?









i might resell this 4960x i got and pick up a 4930k if amazon/newegg does a deal on the 4930k lol.


----------



## BOB850123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> \
> 
> lol not sure if I should quote that in the error section or reword haha


Please feel free to reword, lol. I am just amazed at how stupid I was. For some reason I thought I remembered that the ram should go in the black slots and never even bothered to check the manual.







The simple things are always what get me.


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*


No one said this.

Real response:

"She indicated that it was sent overnight, not that it would arrive overnight being that it is shipped from our supplier directly and overnight delivery is not available however 2 day delivery is generally overnight if there are any delays with the delivery.

You can believe what you want to believe, at no point have we ever lied about any information that has been provided to you."

End of email- anything added on before or after this is purely Luna. Also I am the only manager you have spoken to, and that is not my response.


----------



## szeged

so it seems NCIX is reading these forums








hopefully you will stick around for people to ask questions about NCIX? and hopefully they keep it somewhat civil, compared to the other RIVE BE thread.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> on some reviews once overclocked people reported that the heatsinks were getting hot to the touch to the point they couldnt keep their hands on them for very long.


My vrm heatsinks were too hot to hold on to with my 3930k at 4.5, 1.42V running prime 95


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> My vrm heatsinks were too hot to hold on to with my 3930k at 4.5, 1.42V running prime 95


on the original rive or the BE?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> No one said this.
> 
> Real response:
> 
> "She indicated that it was sent overnight, not that it would arrive overnight being that it is shipped from our supplier directly and overnight delivery is not available however 2 day delivery is generally overnight if there are any delays with the delivery.
> 
> You can believe what you want to believe, at no point have we ever lied about any information that has been provided to you."
> 
> End of email- anything added on before or after this is purely Luna. Also I am the only manager you have spoken to, and that is not my response.


Chris, I have dealt with UPS quite a few times in my life, I have even worked for them. Over 24 hours to produce scan in an item? Are you sure you handed the boards over to UPS? I would understand the EXTREME delay in processing, if it wasn't 2 day air, but as it's two day air it's highly unlikely that it's taking UPS this long to scan the item into the system.

I knew they be lerkin!


----------



## Chris-NCIX

10000000000000%

Addendum- Some were shipped from Canada too, this may be why they are taking a bit longer.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> No one said this.
> 
> Real response:
> 
> "She indicated that it was sent overnight, not that it would arrive overnight being that it is shipped from our supplier directly and overnight delivery is not available however 2 day delivery is generally overnight if there are any delays with the delivery.
> 
> You can believe what you want to believe, at no point have we ever lied about any information that has been provided to you."
> 
> End of email- anything added on before or after this is purely Luna. Also I am the only manager you have spoken to, and that is not my response.


Sorry but rewriting a response to cover the image won't help. People are aware of the lies coming from you, and everyone here is aware of the issues with NCIX and their ill-practices. If you're here to save face then please do so by showing results not playing cover up. Unless you're going to state that I'm the sole person emailing you as well now, vs whomever you're quoting.









I'm also amazed you signed up just to play cover up instead of actually bringing news, which is disappointing. Instead of damage control its "let me defend myself"


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so it seems NCIX is reading these forums
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hopefully you will stick around for people to ask questions about NCIX? and hopefully they keep it somewhat civil, compared to the other RIVE BE thread.


I have no issues or problems doing so, as long as people are indeed being civil. I do however have to run the warehouse sale tomorrow, so I probably won't be able to check back here until Sunday.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> I have no issues or problems doing so, as long as people are indeed being civil. I do however have to run the warehouse sale tomorrow, so I probably won't be able to check back here until Sunday.


the last thing i want is for people to run more hardware reps/vendor reps away from OCN, the more we have around, the quicker we get answers


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sorry but rewriting a response to cover the image won't help. Everyone here is aware of the issues with NCIX and their ill-practices. If you're here to save face then please do so by showing results not playing cover up. Unless you're going to state that I'm the sole person emailing you as well now, vs whomever you're quoting.


How about I post the email publicly then and let everyone see for themselves?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> 10000000000000%
> 
> Addendum- Some were shipped from Canada too, this may be why they are taking a bit longer.


hrrm... That's an interesting answer. I guess Germany (Aquacomputer order) does a better job @ reporting to UPS than Canada does. Just for contrast, my order from AquaComputer had a pickup scan, arrival scan, customs scan, & 100 other scans within 24 hours of receiving my shipping #. So, it's obviously out of NCIX hands now since UPS has it and all.

Have a good evening Chris. Thanks for the amazing customer experience!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> How about I post the email publicly then and let everyone see for themselves?


How about you tell people what's really going on with their orders?









Or Why they've been told their shipment was going out "tonight" and here we are days later with nothing? Only a Label.


----------



## Arm3nian

I'm just going to cancel when Newegg gets stock. At least they ship the products. Not take the money a month early, then say it is going to be shipped but actually isn't (about 20 times now)?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I'm just going to cancel when Newegg gets stock. At least they ship the products. Not take the money a month early, then say it is going to be shipped but actually isn't (about 20 times now)?


you will probably still get your board before me. I guess the Royal Mounted Police are personally escorting it to the border on horse back.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hrrm... That's an interesting answer. I guess Germany (Aquacomputer order) does a better job @ reporting to UPS than Canada does. Just for contrast, my order from AquaComputer had a pickup scan, arrival scan, customs scan, & 100 other scans within 24 hours of receiving my shipping #. So, it's obviously out of NCIX hands now since UPS has it and all.
> 
> Have a good evening Chris. Thanks for the amazing customer experience!


My last Aquatuning Order


----------



## RSharpe

Does anyone know how important that 4 pin power ATX cable is near the CPU? I don't seem to have a 4 pin plug. I tried using a 6 pin but my system wouldn't post when I tried this.

I am planning on using multi-GPUs


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> My last Aquatuning Order


----------



## kpoeticg

Chris, I truly don't know what goes on behind the scenes at NCIX. And i really don't know what goes into running a huge operation like that. But i'm not even sure that free 780TI's or 290x's would redeem the way you handled this release. Sorry man...


----------



## ZX2Slow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Does anyone know how important that 4 pin power ATX cable is near the CPU? I don't seem to have a 4 pin plug. I tried using a 6 pin but my system wouldn't post when I tried this.
> 
> I am planning on using multi-GPUs


Its required according to the manual.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Does anyone know how important that 4 pin power ATX cable is near the CPU? I don't seem to have a 4 pin plug. I tried using a 6 pin but my system wouldn't post when I tried this.
> 
> I am planning on using multi-GPUs


I think you're mixing up your plugs. You can't plug a VGA plug into an EPS connector. They look similar but are not the same. The 4 & 8Pin plugs near the socket are to power your CPU. It's absolutely necessary to plug at least the 4Pin in. Your PSU most definitely has a 4 or 8Pin (or both) CPU Plug


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> How about I post the email publicly then and let everyone see for themselves?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Chris, I truly don't know what goes on behind the scenes at NCIX. And i really don't know what goes into running a huge operation like that. But i'm not even sure that free 780TI's or 290x's would redeem the way you handled this release. Sorry man...


All I know, is this is the only international order I have ever placed that's taken more than 4 hours to show up in the system.









Some one in the other thread just said something about going to pick up his board in person in Canada today, & it had bent pins. how the hell am I supposed to exchange a supposed defective board with a company that cant get more than 5 @ a time?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think you're mixing up your plugs. You can't plug a VGA plug into an EPS connector. They look similar but are not the same. The 4 & 8Pin plugs near the socket are to power your CPU. It's absolutely necessary to plug at least the 4Pin in. Your PSU most definitely has a 4 or 8Pin (or both) CPU Plug


You would think that about the PSU's but my EVGA Super Nova does not have a 4 pin cpu plug!! I am going to have to make one!!


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gardening*
> 
> I am asking bcs all other recently released boards with 4 additional controllers had the newer 2 lane Marvel 9230 as controllers, beside the X79-Deluxe who has the Marvel's for 4 extra 6GB/S connectors *and* 2 ASMedia's for non-RAID able additional 6GB/s but no eSATA's (kind of switched the connector version).
> It's also the first of the newer ones without SSD Caching II mentioned => might be hint that the Marvel are indeed not used on this board.
> So this board seems only being able to RAID via Intel. Marvel offeres a non-OS simple RAID (as in usually only RAID o or RAID 1), something that might be interesting for scratch disks (editing...)
> Very curious...


Well the main page listed ONLY ASMedia and Intel controllers. Look at it this way: They removed heatpipes to reduce costs, and in contrast to X79-DELUXE, overclockers are probably not someone who would like a loads of SATA ports.
Quote:


> Intel® X79 chipset :
> 2 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s), gray
> 4 x SATA 3Gb/s port(s), black
> Support Raid 0, 1, 5, 10
> ASMedia® ASM1061 controller : *2
> 2 x eSATA 6Gb/s port(s), red
> 4 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s), gray


It has also one less LAN port than X79.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think you're mixing up your plugs. You can't plug a VGA plug into an EPS connector. They look similar but are not the same. The 4 & 8Pin plugs near the socket are to power your CPU. It's absolutely necessary to plug at least the 4Pin in. Your PSU most definitely has a 4 or 8Pin (or both) CPU Plug


I thought, it's only necessary to plug in EPS 8-pin. The 4-pin one should be auxilary.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You would think that about the PSU's but my EVGA Super Nova does not have a 4 pin cpu plug!! I am going to have to make one!!


I have yet to see a PSU that comes with one. Which confuses me. The mobo should come with an adapter.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Does anyone know how important that 4 pin power ATX cable is near the CPU? I don't seem to have a 4 pin plug. I tried using a 6 pin but my system wouldn't post when I tried this.
> 
> I am planning on using multi-GPUs


This is what the CPU EPS connectors look like:





Some PSU's will just have a single 4Pin, some will have a 4 + 4 like the one i just showed, and some will have an 8Pin that should be labeled with EPS or CPU. Some PSU's will have all of those options. Your Corsair AX1200 probly has at least 2 of the choices


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Does anyone know how important that 4 pin power ATX cable is near the CPU? I don't seem to have a 4 pin plug. I tried using a 6 pin but my system wouldn't post when I tried this.
> 
> I am planning on using multi-GPUs


The one by the CPU is for extra CPU power. The one down by the pci-e is for extra GPU power.


----------



## Raghar

Cmon, lets show him connectors for real men.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cmon, lets show him connectors for real men.


LOL, that pic doesn't really explain what connector he's supposed to use tho


----------



## yttocstfarc

Ok here is my take on the NCIX Newegg thing.....BTW its just my







From what I've seen the release date was the same from both places. People pre ordered from NCIX because they thought they would be one of the first people to get this motherboard. That however, was not the case once Newegg pre ordered. Some people got their motherboards from Newegg before some from NCIX. There have been some people that ordered from both, and got their Newegg order first and still haven't recieved their NCIX order. Take this however you want it. This comes from someone with over 15+years in Customer Service experience. From a bag boy at a Grocery Store to a Service Manager of a multimillion dollar Boat Dealership. If something isn't going right with a customers order/service TELL THE TRUTH and make it right however you can. Putting a customer off or telling them what they want to hear will only end in disappointment on their end, and will most likely never do business with you again. Under Promise and Over Deliver. Now from time to time things happen and don't go according to plan. That's where the honesty comes in. From what i've seen I will never do any business with NCIX. I might change my mind but that depends on how this turns out. This all could have been avoided by telling the customer the truth.







END OF STORY.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> on the original rive or the BE?


RIVBE, never had a RIVE


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here is my take on the NCIX Newegg thing.....BTW its just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From what I've seen the release date was the same from both places. People pre ordered from NCIX because they thought they would be one of the first people to get this motherboard. That however, was not the case once Newegg pre ordered. Some people got their motherboards from Newegg before some from NCIX. There have been some people that ordered from both, and got their Newegg order first and still haven't recieved their NCIX order. Take this however you want it. This comes from someone with over 15+years in Customer Service experience. From a bag boy at a Grocery Store to a Service Manager of a multimillion dollar Boat Dealership.
> 
> 
> If something isn't going right with a customers order/service TELL THE TRUTH and make it right however you can. Putting a customer off or telling them what they want to hear will only end in disappointment on their end, and will most likely never do business with you again. Under Promise and Over Deliver. Now from time to time things happen and don't go according to plan. That's where the honesty comes in. From what i've seen I will never do any business with NCIX. I might change my mind but that depends on how this turns out. *This all could have been avoided by telling the customer the truth*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> END OF STORY.


Exactly. I didn't even preorder from NCIX. I waited and went with Newegg, and i'm STILL pissed at NCIX. It's crazy that people that took a chance with them and ordered their boards like 3 weeks before me, then had convo's with sales reps saying "We just spoke to our suppLIAR, and the boards should be drop-shipped to the people who preordered in the next cpl days", still don't have their boards.

It's not the fact that it took them a while to get them in stock. The insane lying is unacceptable business.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Ok here is my take on the NCIX Newegg thing.....BTW its just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From what I've seen the release date was the same from both places. People pre ordered from NCIX because they thought they would be one of the first people to get this motherboard. That however, was not the case once Newegg pre ordered. Some people got their motherboards from Newegg before some from NCIX. There have been some people that ordered from both, and got their Newegg order first and still haven't recieved their NCIX order. Take this however you want it. This comes from someone with over 15+years in Customer Service experience. From a bag boy at a Grocery Store to a Service Manager of a multimillion dollar Boat Dealership. If something isn't going right with a customers order/service TELL THE TRUTH and make it right however you can. Putting a customer off or telling them what they want to hear will only end in disappointment on their end, and will most likely never do business with you again. Under Promise and Over Deliver. Now from time to time things happen and don't go according to plan. That's where the honesty comes in. From what i've seen I will never do any business with NCIX. I might change my mind but that depends on how this turns out. This all could have been avoided by telling the customer the truth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> END OF STORY.


This.

Not only do they lie to us but now they deny and argue against their customers...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> This.
> 
> Not only do they lie to us but now they deny and argue against their customers...


Not to mention threaten to post private information like user emails and orders publicly on public forums lol. Great company policy eh? Eh ? Eeeeehh?


----------



## skupples

He sure did disappear quick too. He resorted to blaming Canada, & UPS. +1


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> He sure did disappear quick too. He resorted to blaming Canada, & UPS. +1


Lol, he gave it a shot. I think he might not have realized how much of the BS they pulled is pretty much common knowledge now LOLLLL

I can't imagine lying to customers to the magnitude that they did, and then finding out that every single customer they did it to has been communicating with each other and the public. And every story they told is now out in the open for all to see

I'd probly close my browser too


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol, he gave it a shot. I think he might not have realized how much of the BS they pulled is pretty much common knowledge now LOLLLL
> 
> I can't imagine lying to customers to the magnitude that they did, and then finding out that every single customer they did it to has been communicating with each other and the public. And every story they told is now out in the open for all to see
> 
> I'd probly close my browser too


Yeah, I don't think he realized that every single pre-order customer they have left is here in this page.


----------



## BOB850123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You would think that about the PSU's but my EVGA Super Nova does not have a 4 pin cpu plug!! I am going to have to make one!!


You do not need to have both. I am running just fine with only the 8pin EPS. LunaP was saying that your power supply would certainly have either a 4pin or 8pin, not necessarily both.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BOB850123*
> 
> You do not need to have both. I am running just fine with only the 8pin EPS. LunaP was saying that your power supply would certainly have either a 4pin or 8pin, not necessarily both.


It's only recommended for "extreme" overclocking. The GPU one is recommended for 3+ gpu.


----------



## BOB850123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's only recommended for "extreme" overclocking. The GPU one is recommended for 3+ gpu.


Exactly, for most people most of the time there is no reason for the extra 4pin EPS. Seross69 just seemed to think that both were necessary for normal operation, or at least that was my impression.


----------



## MagnumMatt

Add me to the club! Will have a build log once i buy the rest of the components, water loop, and build my own Desk/Case in a week.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BOB850123*
> 
> Exactly, for most people most of the time there is no reason for the extra 4pin EPS. Seross69 just seemed to think that both were necessary for normal operation, or at least that was my impression.


I plan to hook up both... Why? Because it's their, & I want to push 5.0 24/7 on my 3930k.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BOB850123*
> 
> Exactly, for most people most of the time there is no reason for the extra 4pin EPS. Seross69 just seemed to think that both were necessary for normal operation, or at least that was my impression.


No I know you don't have to have both but was surprised that the EVGA Supernova 1500 did not have them considering it is suppose to be for extreme systems and over-clocking I know that is just marketing hype but still and I cant remember where I read it said to not use a 8 pin in the 4... I plan on needing it anyway!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## BOB850123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I plan to hook up both... Why? Because it's their, & I want to push 5.0 24/7 on my 3930k.


It can't hurt, so if you want to and you can there is no reason not to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> No I know you don't have to have both but was surprised that the EVGA Supernova 1500 did not have them considering it is suppose to be for extreme systems and over-clocking I know that is just marketing hype but still and I cant remember where I read it said to not use a 8 pin in the 4... I plan on needing it anyway!!!!!!!!!!


Some psu's offer power in the form of 4+4 pin as was posted earlier by someone else. The 1500 supernova lists 2x8pin EPS. While it is interesting that is is not 4+4 pin, the fact that it has 2x8pin is actually more "extreme" than and 8 pin and 4 pin. Regardless, it is unfortunate that it does not provide power in the form that you desire for this board.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's only recommended for "extreme" overclocking. The GPU one is recommended for 3+ gpu.


I have 8 and 6+2, but no 4 pins. Oh well. I'm not going to worry about it for now. I'm only running two cards in SLI.

Well I shoved everything into my case and everything seems to be running decently, and my waterloop is running smoothly. Most of my software is installed, and I'll see how it overclocks tomorrow.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BOB850123*
> 
> It can't hurt, so if you want to and you can there is no reason not to.
> Some psu's offer power in the form of 4+4 pin as was posted earlier by someone else. The 1500 supernova lists 2x8pin EPS. While it is interesting that is is not 4+4 pin, the fact that it has 2x8pin is actually more "extreme" than and 8 pin and 4 pin. Regardless, it is unfortunate that it does not provide power in the form that you desire for this board.


it is no problem really as I plan on sleeving all my cables and making customs ones..


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it is no problem really as I plan on sleeving all my cables and making customs ones..


Exactly. Turning an 8-Pin Eps into a 4 + 4 is a matter of like 3 minutes and 5 dollars


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Exactly. Turning an 8-Pin Eps into a 4 + 4 is a matter of like 3 minutes and 5 dollars


Actually it takes a little more than 3 minutes to sleeve this correctly!!! or it does me!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

LMAO, yeah definitely takes more than 3 minutes to sleeve. HAHAHHA
I was talking about just de-pinning an 8-Pin and popping the pins into a 4 + 4









Sorry for laughing so hard. I'm just a new sleever myself. The thought of me being able to sleeve an 8Pin in 3 minutes is hilarious to me


----------



## skupples

I'm avoiding sleeving. I'm only going to do it if i'm short on cable length. Which is highly probable on a 900D.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm avoiding sleeving. I'm only going to do it if i'm short on cable length. Which is highly probable on a 900D.


send your cables + sleeving up to me, ill do it for you for free bro







ive sleeved 3 1300g2s now





if you ever decide you want em sleeved, we arent that far from each other so shipping would be pretty cheap lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> send your cables + sleeving up to me, ill do it for you for free bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ive sleeved 3 1300g2s now
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you ever decide you want em sleeved, we arent that far from each other so shipping would be pretty cheap lol.


oh Christ. I forgot my cables & pins are blood red...







I'm going to have to go get some vinyl dye.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> oh Christ. I forgot my cables & pins are blood red...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to have to go get some vinyl dye.


i used jet black car paint on some of mine, worked pretty good


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm avoiding sleeving. I'm only going to do it if i'm short on cable length. Which is highly probable on a 900D.


oh your building in a 900D I love these SFF case builds!!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> oh your building in a 900D I love these SFF case builds!!!










It's been a scrapped pile of parts w/ one 480 rad in the bottom for over a month now, thanks to this damned motherboard...

What does SFF stand for? Please excuse my ignorance. Small Form Factor?

If I would of known it was going to take this long to get riv:Be I would of spent the extra 200$ on the CaseLabs Refrigerator.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been a scrapped pile of parts w/ one 480 rad in the bottom for over a month now, thanks to this damned motherboard...
> 
> *What does SFF stand for*? Please excuse my ignorance.
> 
> If I would of known it was going to take this long to get riv:Be I would of spent the extra 200$ on the CaseLabs Refrigerator.


small form factor.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been a scrapped pile of parts w/ one 480 rad in the bottom for over a month now, thanks to this damned motherboard...
> 
> What does SFF stand for? Please excuse my ignorance. Small Form Factor?
> 
> If I would of known it was going to take this long to get riv:Be I would of spent the extra 200$ on the CaseLabs Refrigerator.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> small form factor.


what the heck are your guys still doing up. it is 3:30am eastern time!!! I am in Indonesia now so it is 4:30 pm..


----------



## Arm3nian

I want to sleeve also but it seems like it's going to take a lot of time







especially with acrylic tubing... haven't had a desktop in 4 months...


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> what the heck are your guys still doing up. it is 3:30am eastern time!!! I am in Indonesia now so it is 4:30 pm..


Scanning for deals on ebay/newegg/amazon hoping i can find a 4930k or even 3930k for cheap







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I want to sleeve also but it seems like it's going to take a lot of time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> especially with acrylic tubing... haven't had a desktop in 4 months...


sleeving isnt that bad, just take your time, do it right the first time and you wont have to go back and cut the sleeving off and redo an entire cable(i learned that the hard way) just measure the cuts right, melt the heatshrink correctly, itll all be good


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I want to sleeve also but it seems like it's going to take a lot of time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> especially with acrylic tubing... haven't had a desktop in 4 months...


it does take a lot of time and there is a step learning curve at least there was for me. but I think now I have it figured out and it still takes a lot of time..

sleeving is always something you can work on at anytime if you take the measurements buy the wires, pins, connectors, sleeving and heatshrink..

you can work on this and add 1 at a time!!!!


----------



## szeged

one of the things i think people do is try to rush when sleeving, its not a race







slow down take your time and do it right the first time







it'll save you a lot of curse words, bloody fingers, burned fingers, and ruined sleeving/cables lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it does take a lot of time and there is a step learning curve at least there was for me. but I think now I have it figured out and it still takes a lot of time..
> 
> sleeving is always something you can work on at anytime if you take the measurements buy the wires, pins, connectors, sleeving and heatshrink..
> 
> you can work on this and add 1 at a time!!!!


specially when you have a luxury PSU with 2x the cables necessary for most systems. Excluding 24 pin.

I really don't buy this "oh, no ups info due to coming from Canada" if they really shipped it last night, it should be in country of origin by now, & most definitely scanned in.

ok, time for bed. Don't do business with NCIX!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> one of the things i think people do is try to rush when sleeving, its not a race
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> slow down take your time and do it right the first time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it'll save you a lot of curse words, bloody fingers, burned fingers, and ruined sleeving/cables lol


so very very true. I think you will still make some mistakes and have to learn by trial and error what works best for you!!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Don't do business with NCIX!


This would make a good sig


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> No I know you don't have to have both but was surprised that the EVGA Supernova 1500 did not have them considering it is suppose to be for extreme systems and over-clocking I know that is just marketing hype but still and I cant remember where I read it said to not use a 8 pin in the 4... I plan on needing it anyway!!!!!!!!!!


Why in gods name did you buy the 1500 watts

Its so mediocre that the price they want for it is one of the bigest rippoffs in histroy


----------



## RSharpe

Man. My build is pretty ugly inside, but it's quiet, cool and a pleasure to run. Much nicer than the HAF X I was coming from. I went with a Caselabs M8 since I wanted decent room for watercooling, but it needed to be short enough to fit under my desk.

I can't wait for these delivery problems to end and to see some builds.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think you're mixing up your plugs. You can't plug a VGA plug into an EPS connector. They look similar but are not the same. The 4 & 8Pin plugs near the socket are to power your CPU. It's absolutely necessary to plug at least the 4Pin in. Your PSU most definitely has a 4 or 8Pin (or both) CPU Plug


My AX 1200 definitately has not come with one, or I have lost it. I have TWO 8-pin CPU cables, and lots of PCI-E 6+2 cables, but no 4 or 4+4+ cables. I wonder if my local computer store will have one in stock. My previous motherboard used 2 8-pin CPU cables and a 6 pin.


----------



## ZX2Slow

AX or AXi series? My AXi came with 2x8pin CPU and 6xPCI-E cables

Current state of my project, my fingers are killing me and I am only about 50% done with the wiring. Ran into a snag with the res placement as well that I need to sort out.


----------



## RSharpe

Regular AX series. I've had this thing for quite some time.

I'm assuming that I could probably get a Molex to 4-pin adapter?


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZX2Slow*
> 
> Ran into a snag with the res placement as well that I need to sort out.


Had to drill a couple of holes for the res brackets:


----------



## ZX2Slow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Had to drill a couple of holes for the res brackets:


The holes on the side of the drive cages are perfect for the primochill stealth mounts, The ports on the res were not what I thought and had to order another end cap. Right now I am thinking about placing the pump intake at the bottom of a 250mm res and putting the res intake at the top but am concerned with cavitation and air bubbles.

I think that I will just wrap it up and get it booted at this point because I really want to get a primochill CTR D5 cap, I am in love with this res for some reason.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> My AX 1200 definitately has not come with one, or I have lost it. I have TWO 8-pin CPU cables, and lots of PCI-E 6+2 cables, but no 4 or 4+4+ cables. I wonder if my local computer store will have one in stock. My previous motherboard used 2 8-pin CPU cables and a 6 pin.


If you read my post, i said your PSU would either have a 4Pin, 8Pin, or 4+4 CPU Plug (or some combination of them). So you have an 8Pin CPU, plug it in


----------



## skupples

2-Day shipping, due Tuesday.







Saturday isn't a business day! OK, fine i'm done complaining for now.... FOR NOW.


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> specially when you have a luxury PSU with 2x the cables necessary for most systems. Excluding 24 pin.
> 
> I really don't buy this "oh, no ups info due to coming from Canada" if they really shipped it last night, it should be in country of origin by now, & most definitely scanned in.
> 
> ok, time for bed. Don't do business with NCIX!


I was told Cali, so obviously another ploy on their end to buy more time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> This would make a good sig


I'm putting in mine








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2-Day shipping, due Tuesday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saturday isn't a business day! OK, fine i'm done complaining for now.... FOR NOW.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*


Yeah mine says so to, shows it was dropped off this morning I believe @ their facility? (UPS)


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> This would make a good sig


I think it would make a worthy tattoo at this point


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I was told Cali, so obviously another ploy on their end to buy more time.
> I'm putting in mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah mine says so to, shows it was dropped off this morning I believe @ their facility? (UPS)


Yupp, looks like they didn't actually get the units till Friday, like they originally told us Wendesday. Ohwellz, Here's to the end of a Saga...

*First time, & only time NcIX!*


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yupp, looks like they didn't actually get the units till Friday, like they originally told us Wendesday. Ohwellz, Here's to the end of a Saga...
> 
> *First time, & only time NcIX!*


http://www.bbb.org/mbc/business-reviews/computer-dealers/netlink-computers-in-richmond-bc-136226

Submitting mine, also forwarding a copy of the managers ploys to the CEO alerting him off private information breaches.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MagnumMatt*
> 
> Add me to the club! Will have a build log once i buy the rest of the components, water loop, and build my own Desk/Case in a week.


w000 almost missed this! Grats and added!

Looks like everyones pretty much grabbing the 4930K







Guess I'll just exchange my X and use the funds for something else...blargh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> 
> 
> Man. My build is pretty ugly inside, but it's quiet, cool and a pleasure to run. Much nicer than the HAF X I was coming from. I went with a Caselabs M8 since I wanted decent room for watercooling, but it needed to be short enough to fit under my desk.
> 
> I can't wait for these delivery problems to end and to see some builds.


I think I've seen enough CL pr0n to convince me and yours is convincing me to go reverse, was hard to look @ in the beginning but now its making more sense and looking better. I'm just used to everything being on the left.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I think I've seen enough CL pr0n to convince me and yours is convincing me to go reverse, was hard to look @ in the beginning but now its making more sense and looking better. I'm just used to everything being on the left.


Yeah. I got a deal on it used. It takes a bit getting used to since everything seems to be backwards (including the water loop), but it's actually not too bad to build. I really like double-wide cases. I have no need for a 4ft tall case









Is it just me, or is ASUS ROG software a bit janky? Their skinned CPU-Z isn't even the latest version so it reads the CPU info properly.


----------



## LunaP

Looks like someone beat us to it









Guys here's a great link comparing a crap ton of 4930k's and 4960x batches.

Guess I may as well swap back.

http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=84216


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Yeah. I got a deal on it used. It takes a bit getting used to since everything seems to be backwards (including the water loop), but it's actually not too bad to build. I really like double-wide cases. I have no need for a 4ft tall case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it just me, or is ASUS ROG software a bit janky? Their skinned CPU-Z isn't even the latest version so it reads the CPU info properly.


I'm pretty sure you can get updated ROG skinned cpu-z/gpu-z from the techpowerup site. Not positive though.


----------



## Redshift 91

I think I nailed down my oc issue, I forgot to enable cpu pll overvoltage


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> My AX 1200 definitately has not come with one, or I have lost it. I have TWO 8-pin CPU cables, and lots of PCI-E 6+2 cables, but no 4 or 4+4+ cables. I wonder if my local computer store will have one in stock. My previous motherboard used 2 8-pin CPU cables and a 6 pin.


Make your own!!! not too hard!!


----------



## LunaP

Alright so after going through the thread, noted the noteworthy chips and batches, apparently people were using this to find the best range of batches for them.

After noting all down compiled a list.

Also someone got in a HUGE batch of over 30+ 4960's to bench, so looking forward to their results:

Batche #'s

-4960X-
3320A573 ES (4.5GHz cinebench @ 1.4v) (4.99ghz @ 1.496V)
3321A576 ES (4.7GHz cinebench @ 1.35v, (5005 Mhz @ 1.472v) 5750MHz 3DMark vantage @ 1.7v LN2, CB -150 )
3330A936 (4,8 GHz cinebench @ 1,50v)
3325A993 5GHz / 1.42v

-4930K-
3320A829 ES (4.6GHz cinebench @ 1.4v)
3326B664 (5.0GHz cinebench @ 1.256v SS cooling)
3328A983 (4.6GHz cinebench @ 1.4v, 5650MHz 3DMark vantage @ 1.7v LN2, no CB)
3325A911 @ 4.7GHz cinebench @ 1.29 volt air-cooling
No CB but CBB at -170 which is not bad
4,7 GHz primestable at 1,32 Volt on air
5,8 GHz Vantage stable at 1,75 Volt
5,85 GHz wPrime stable at 1,75 Volt
3326A994 4.6 GHz Cinebench 11.5 @ 1.4V air cooling 5 GHz under SS @ -45 with 1.55V
3327A694 cine [email protected] ss -40 / [email protected] cascade -102
3326B662 4650 6/12ht vantage cpu test 1.43v/water
3332BXXX 4600 1.3V vantage max on ln2 5400 vantage 5500 3D11
3326B667 ( Cinebench @ 4.9 / 1.4v ) 4.7ghz at 1.37v on a H100 Temps Sit around 65-70C Full Load with Prime
These puppies overclock better when you raise the BLCK instead of just going Multi only.
3332B081 (4500 1.2v vantage & cinebench ) (4700 1.35v vantage & cinebench) (5000 6c/6t 1.48v 32m)
3326B668 4.7ghz @ 1.392v

-4820K-
3325A984 (4.9GHz cinebench @ 1.5v)
3327A808 (5ghz @ 1.424v)



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## RSharpe

Doing some quick and dirty overclocks and I seem to be able to get to 4.7ghz on 1.392 at the same time my 32gb of G.Skills are hitting 2400mhz. That's in the neighbourhood of what I was hoping for, so I'm pleased that I was able to get there so quickly without really understanding much of the RIVBE bios.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Doing some quick and dirty overclocks and I seem to be able to get to 4.7ghz on 1.392 at the same time my 32gb of G.Skills are hitting 2400mhz. That's in the neighbourhood of what I was hoping for, so I'm pleased that I was able to get there so quickly without really understanding much of the RIVBE bios.


What's your batch # so I can add it to the list, gonna put this on the OP shortly.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What's your batch # so I can add it to the list, gonna put this on the OP shortly.


3326B668

I'm pretty sure someone who knows what they're doing can get this higher.


----------



## szeged

so 25th newegg will get more in stock? or have things changed? i might have a good deal on a 3930k and 4930k, already got a 4960x, but no 2011 board anymore (my original RIVE has been taken from this earth by the great evil known as " gravity" and " slippery hands")


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so 25th newegg will get more in stock? or have things changed? i might have a good deal on a 3930k and 4930k, already got a 4960x, but no 2011 board anymore (my original RIVE has been taken from this earth by the great evil known as " gravity" and " slippery hands")


That's when they claim they will have more in stock, but with the way they are flying off the shelves, all of them may go to pre-orders... They already shut off the pre-orders for the nov 25th batch.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's when they claim they will have more in stock, but with the way they are flying off the shelves, all of them may go to pre-orders... They already shut off the pre-orders for the nov 25th batch.


shut off pre orders for 25th, hope that means they arent all sold out lol.

btw 

was cleaning one of my titans, looked at the pic i took, and guess whos there on the core?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> shut off pre orders for 25th, hope that means they arent all sold out lol.
> 
> btw
> 
> was cleaning one of my titans, looked at the pic i took, and guess whos there on the core?


The inalienable right to enrich uranium?


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think you're mixing up your plugs. You can't plug a VGA plug into an EPS connector. They look similar but are not the same. The 4 & 8Pin plugs near the socket are to power your CPU. It's absolutely necessary to plug at least the 4Pin in. Your PSU most definitely has a 4 or 8Pin (or both) CPU Plug
> 
> 
> 
> My AX 1200 definitately has not come with one, or I have lost it. I have TWO 8-pin CPU cables, and lots of PCI-E 6+2 cables, but no 4 or 4+4+ cables. I wonder if my local computer store will have one in stock. My previous motherboard used 2 8-pin CPU cables and a 6 pin.
Click to expand...

your ax1200 definitely has a 4 pin cpu plug. They give you 2 cpu 8 pin plugs that can be separated to create 4 pin plugs. Just break them apart. use the 8 pin for the 8 pin cpu plug on the board and then separate the second 8 pin and just use one of the 4 pin's and leave the other 4 pin out. Maybe your not trying to break them apart hard enough.


----------



## IT Diva

At least mine's finally on the second half of its journey to the Virgin Islands.

Newegg doesn't ship here, so I had to have a friend in Texas order it for me . . . .

Problem was, she was on 12hr shifts, and missed 2 delivery attempts . . . the bozo didn't take it to the office like he did with other packages . . . duhhhhhhh . . .

Tracking number 1ZX79933029688xxxx
Ship date 11/18/2013 23:24:36
Delivery date 11/22/2013 14:24:00

Destination BAY CITY, TX, US
Service type 2ND DAY AIR
Weight 10.00 LBS

Status Delivered
Date/Time
Activity
Location
Details

11/22/2013 14:24:00 DELIVERED[D] BAY CITY, TX, US RESIDENTIAL
11/22/2013 04:33:00 OUT FOR DELIVERY _ANGLETON, TX, US
11/21/2013 15:53:00 THE CUSTOMER WAS NOT AVAILABLE ON THE 1ST ATTEMPT. A 2ND ATTEMPT WILL BE MADE[X] ANGLETON, TX, US
11/21/2013 04:30:00 OUT FOR DELIVERY_ ANGLETON, TX, US
11/20/2013 18:06:00 THE CUSTOMER WAS NOT AVAILABLE ON THE 1ST ATTEMPT. A 2ND ATTEMPT WILL BE MADE[X] ANGLETON, TX, US
11/20/2013 05:49:00 OUT FOR DELIVERY _ANGLETON, TX, US
11/20/2013 05:25:00 ARRIVAL SCAN_ ANGLETON, TX, US
11/20/2013 04:04:00 DEPARTURE SCAN _HOUSTON, TX, US
11/19/2013 21:47:00 ARRIVAL SCAN_ HOUSTON, TX, US
11/19/2013 17:04:00 DEPARTURE SCAN _DALLAS/FT. WORTH A/P, TX, US
11/19/2013 11:14:00 ARRIVAL SCAN_ DALLAS/FT. WORTH A/P, TX, US
11/19/2013 06:23:00 DEPARTURE SCAN _LOS ANGELES, CA, US
11/19/2013 02:53:00 ARRIVAL SCAN_ LOS ANGELES, CA, US
11/19/2013 01:25:00 DEPARTURE SCAN _LOS ANGELES, CA, US
11/18/2013 21:41:00 ARRIVAL SCAN_ LOS ANGELES, CA, US
11/18/2013 21:13:00 DEPARTURE SCAN _BALDWIN PARK, CA, US
11/18/2013 19:17:00 ORIGIN SCAN_ BALDWIN PARK, CA, US
11/18/2013 23:24:36 BILLING INFORMATION RECEIVED[M]

Anyway, we got it all copasetic now and she got it to the post office headed here.
















Tracking Number: 940551020079389798xxxx
in-transit
Scheduled Delivery Day: November 26, 2013
Product & Tracking Information
Postal Product:
Priority Mail 3-Day™
Features: $50 insurance included
USPS Tracking™
Date & Time
Status of Item
Location
November 23, 2013
Depart USPS Sort Facility .
NORTH HOUSTON, TX 77315
November 22, 2013 , 11:02 pm
Processed at USPS Origin Sort Facility .
NORTH HOUSTON, TX 77315
November 22, 2013 , 5:29 pm
Dispatched to Sort Facility .
BAY CITY, TX 77414
November 22, 2013 , 4:34 pm
Acceptance .
BAY CITY, TX 77414

I know it says "scheduled delivery date 11-26, but it'll be lucky to get to Puerto Rico for sorting by then.

Hopefully I'll see it before Thanksgiving, but I'm not counting on it that soon.

Almost everything down here somehow turns into an NCIX like Cluster Fuggle.

Counting the days,

Darlene


----------



## skupples

wOoooHHoooOOO!!! Just found out i'm off Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday. Gives me a good chunk of time to get things started. Should also give me enough time to place my final shipment of odds & ends. Hopefully I didn't destroy my current waterblocks from lack of maintenance.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> your ax1200 definitely has a 4 pin cpu plug. They give you 2 cpu 8 pin plugs that can be separated to create 4 pin plugs. Just break them apart. use the 8 pin for the 8 pin cpu plug on the board and then separate the second 8 pin and just use one of the 4 pin's and leave the other 4 pin out. Maybe your not trying to break them apart hard enough.


HAHAHAHA! I'm so ******ed, you guys are so right. I just tried this again and one of them came apart. This was after I had gone out and purchased a molex-to-4pin from the local store.


----------



## maxxx.ph

Not sure what version of CPU-Z you guys are using. So far, this is the latest ROG themed CPU-Z (v1.67.1) that I can find.

ftp://ftp.cpuid.com/cpu-z/cpu-z_1.67-rog-setup-en.exe
Quote:


> Improved support of Intel Silvermont (Bay Trail)
> New validation


For the normal CPU-Z :

ftp://ftp.cpuid.com/cpu-z/cpu-z_1.67-en.zip


----------



## bughole5

I got this Memory kit for my rampage iv black

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503

what do you guys think


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bughole5*
> 
> I got this Memory kit for my rampage iv black
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
> 
> what do you guys think


Does it work? If so, it's amazing ram.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bughole5*
> 
> I got this Memory kit for my rampage iv black
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
> 
> what do you guys think


excellent choice!!!


----------



## CallsignVega

I'll be going with this RAM:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231724

Seems like the highest validated for X79 I could find.

Anyone that has had regular RIVE notice any higher overclocking potential with the BE?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> I'll be going with this RAM:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231724
> 
> Seems like the highest validated for X79 I could find.
> 
> Anyone that has had regular RIVE notice any higher overclocking potential with the BE?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231688

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231684

^2933 a bit cheaper. Trident x > ripjaws z


----------



## CallsignVega

Those aren't QVL'd tested/validated with X79, only the Ripjaws are. I've read those memory kits for Z87 etc can run much slower in X79 boards.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Those aren't QVL'd tested/validated with X79, only the Ripjaws are. I've read those memory kits for Z87 etc can run much slower in X79 boards.


I was worried about that too and almost send my 32gb 2400 kit back but after writing to G.Skill they explained that it would be fine and already tested, though its all based on the memory controller anyways on how it interprets things anyways right? I know up to 2666 for G.Skill is in the manual , thus far anyways. I kinda feel I should have just stayed @ the sweet spot and gone 2133 but I like the even 2400









Any reason why they might run slower? They were released as dual channel due to Haswell but still run in quad from my understanding, if what you said is true though I'd best be returning my pack...well its way to late for that now but could easily sell it and buy new packs.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I was worried about that too and almost send my 32gb 2400 kit back but after writing to G.Skill they explained that it would be fine and already tested, though its all based on the memory controller anyways on how it interprets things anyways right? I know up to 2666 for G.Skill is in the manual , thus far anyways. I kinda feel I should have just stayed @ the sweet spot and gone 2133 but I like the even 2400
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any reason why they might run slower? They were released as dual channel due to Haswell but still run in quad from my understanding, if what you said is true though I'd best be returning my pack...well its way to late for that now but could easily sell it and buy new packs.


They are a quad channel kit so they should work on x79. He does have a point though that the ripjaws z are tested on x79, and the trident x on z87, but it seems like the trident x have the best ic's, 4200+mhz doesn't lie lol.


----------



## Arm3nian

Look at this these though:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231505
and this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231586

Top one says tested for x79, and costs more and has HIGHER timings
Bottom link doesn't say x79 tested and has LOWER timings but costs less
There are also trident x kits at 2400 with 9 latency as opposed to 11 or 10. Not sure what's going on here.


----------



## skupples

same stuff, different factory timings. Oh boy, i'm not looking forward to dialing in my trident X kit.


----------



## LunaP

According to many reviews,

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/memory/g_skill_trident_x_2400mhz_32gb_kit/6 being one of them

You can change the timings to 9-11-11-28 vs 10-12-12-31 w/o changing voltage. I'm not running crazy benches so I doubt I"ll notice the 9 vs 10 but regardless it was interesting to know.


----------



## Arm3nian

Question is if the kits not tested for x79 will actually run their rated speeds and timings on quad channel.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Question is if the kits not tested for x79 will actually run their rated speeds and timings on quad channel.


Touche~

I'll send an email and ask, also what about cada who was testing with his board earlier in the thread ( he had an early shipment since he benches )

He might have some insight on this.


----------



## kpoeticg

I thought since the IMC's on the CPU, all the x79 compatible ram really had to do with SB-E. I thought IB-E changed all that. Am i misunderstanding.......again?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I thought since the IMC's on the CPU, all the x79 compatible ram really had to do with SB-E. I thought IB-E changed all that. Am i misunderstanding.......again?


IB-E is supposed to have a higher quality/stronger IMC.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Question is if the kits not tested for x79 will actually run their rated speeds and timings on quad channel.


Mine did for me.


----------



## _REAPER_

Do any of you guys think I will have issues running 64gig with a 3970X on this mobo


----------



## seross69

the thing about the higher speeded memory is read all the description. it says that manual tuning may be required to get you to the rated speed.
Quote:


> To reach rated memory speed, enabling Intel XMP profile or manual BIOS tuning is required


and the ripjawz do not say this... something else to make you think!!


----------



## bughole5

this kit is suggested in the rampage iv black manual

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503

so, I bought it. haha


----------



## Arm3nian

All the quad channel trident x are also in the manual.


----------



## bughole5

get it then


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bughole5*
> 
> get it then


Why? I won't have my motherboard till haswell-e comes out.


----------



## iatacs19

Here is a good starting point for RAM:

http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/category.php?categoryid=2

For frequency the Hynix MFR are the kings.

I like how he actually takes off those damn heat-blankets and shows off the ICs.









These kits seem pretty good as well:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?286654-Corsair-Vengeance-Pro-CMY16GX3M2A2400C10R-2x8GB-DDR3-2400-C10/page2


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iatacs19*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a good starting point for RAM:
> 
> http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/category.php?categoryid=2
> 
> 
> 
> For frequency the Hynix MFR are the kings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I like how he actually takes off those damn heat-blankets and shows off the ICs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These kits seem pretty good as well:
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?286654-Corsair-Vengeance-Pro-CMY16GX3M2A2400C10R-2x8GB-DDR3-2400-C10/page2


I thought Samsung Modules were the OC champions....


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I thought Samsung Modules were the OC champions....


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285767-DDR3-IC-thread

You are right for 2Gbit based sticks Samsung ICs are top notch, but with the newer higher density 4Gbit based sticks Hynix MFR seems to scale more linearly with voltage beyond 2400MHz.

I currently have some Corsair Vengeance 2400MHz 2 x 8GB (Hynix MFR v5.29), but have another 2 x 8GB Corsair 2400MHz (Samsung v4.21) set coming in next week. I will test both and compare to see which clocks better.


----------



## kpoeticg

Sweet. Please make sure to share your comparisons. That's real useful info for everybody


----------



## cruzdi

Somehow I knew this was going to happen:
I have a ROG RAIDR in my RIV BE build and with Windows 8, I get:
"Windows cannot be installed to this disk. This computer's hardware may not support booting to this disk. Ensure that the disk's controller is enabled in the computer's BIOS menu."
Of course the controller is enabled. It is inside the RAIDR card. Does anybody know how to solve this UEFI booting mystery with the RIV BE?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> Somehow I knew this was going to happen:
> I have a ROG RAIDR in my RIV BE build and with Windows 8, I get:
> "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. This computer's hardware may not support booting to this disk. Ensure that the disk's controller is enabled in the computer's BIOS menu."
> Of course the controller is enabled. It is inside the RAIDR card. Does anybody know how to solve this UEFI booting mystery with the RIV BE?


I stated this in the other thread. I'm not really sure how these specific pci-e raid cards work, but have you tried enabling raid mode in the advanced options in the BIOS?


----------



## cruzdi

The SATA mode is set to AHCI mode like it should. What I neglected to do is set CSM to disabled in the UEFI's boot menu. It seems to be working fine now. Thank you.


----------



## bughole5

i got that error too, i used my usb on the usb 1.0 slots in the back and it worked fine, just cant use usb 3.0 to install windows


----------



## bughole5

I managed to get my i7 4930k up to 4.6ghz stable with 1.345 vcore


----------



## Redshift 91

I used 2 2x4 GB kits and 1 4x4gb kit of patriot viper 3, I just made sure the timings and frequency were the same. I had all 32GB running at 2400 today, and they're all 2133 XMP and that's on SB-e. I think the quad channel stuff is bull crap, to be honest. It may help with super high speeds, but I maxed out my imc with 3 mixed kits, I doubt it's affected anything.


----------



## _REAPER_

What CPU are you using


----------



## seross69

^^^

won the memory silicon lottery!!!!









what was the CPU at??


----------



## Redshift 91

3930k

4.6 at ~1.4v


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> 3930k
> 
> 4.6 at ~1.4v


wow congrads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Just to reiterate to everyone, you can post pics of your pre-orders from NCIX as we're all we aware of the issues NCIX is having with keeping their stories coherent.


hoping this is still valid.....

be easy on meh, this is my first intels since C2D, gonna need lots and lots of helps !


also have a 3930k coming, may be purchasing a 4930k for funs too, to swap back and fourth


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> wow congrads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


thanks, it does exactly what I wanted it to, it's great when things work out









Though, I'd hazard a guess that the board may have something to do with it, too, but this is my first x79 board, so I can't say for sure.


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> All the quad channel trident x are also in the manual.


Where are you seeing all of them? I can only see the Trident X listed under the 2666/2800 speeds in my manual. Everything else I can see is Ripjaws/Sniper. The Trident X SKU's end in 'GTX', or in the case of this manual 'GTXD'.

I just bought a 32gb quad kit of Trident X 2400 CL10 for this board -- here's hoping it works. RSharpe seems to be up and running fine with his Trident's so I have my fingers crossed.


----------



## ZX2Slow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> I just bought a 32gb quad kit of Trident X 2400 CL10 for this board -- here's hoping it works. RSharpe seems to be up and running fine with his Trident's so I have my fingers crossed.


I have the same kit, I havent been able to compete my build yet so I havent even powered the system on yet.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hoping this is still valid.....
> 
> be easy on meh, this is my first intels since C2D, gonna need lots and lots of helps !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also have a 3930k coming, may be purchasing a 4930k for funs too, to swap back and fourth


I hope you get your board before 2014! Some of the pre-orders have yet to get their shipping numbers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZX2Slow*
> 
> I have the same kit, I havent been able to compete my build yet so I havent even powered the system on yet.


Same kit here as well... 2x kits of 2x8gb... I'm hoping stock speeds won't be an issue on my 3930k.


----------



## CallsignVega

Can you guys confirm this board has the same PCI-E layout as the RIVE for 4-way GPU: 16x/8x/8x/8x and they didn't siphon off any lanes for extra crap?


----------



## jamiee

Might as well add me to the list








(this is my shipping confirmation from NCIX.ca)



Should have it tomorrow... Just need a video card and I'm good to go!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Can you guys confirm this board has the same PCI-E layout as the RIVE for 4-way GPU: 16x/8x/8x/8x and they didn't siphon off any lanes for extra crap?


wouldn't the built in sound card siphon off a few lanes?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Might as well add me to the list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (this is my shipping confirmation from NCIX.ca)
> 
> 
> 
> Should have it tomorrow... Just need a video card and I'm good to go!










My board is set for delivery on tuesday, (most likely monday though as it's already in florida) yet NCIX website has yet to update that it's in the shipping phase.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Can you guys confirm this board has the same PCI-E layout as the RIVE for 4-way GPU: 16x/8x/8x/8x and they didn't siphon off any lanes for extra crap?


Yes. That's the case according to p. 1-23 of the manual


----------



## Cool Mike

Hello,
I owned a Asus Raidr just a month or so ago and was running in UEFI mode.

You can also run in legacy mode. Which is more simple to install, but slower boot times. (the small switch on the Raidr selects UEFI or Legacy mode)

The BIOS must be set to AHCI mode as described in the installed instructions. Internally the RAIDR is running RAID0, but the interface to the motherboard is AHCI.

Look at the following link.
http://www.eightforums.com/tutorials/2328-uefi-unified-extensible-firmware-interface-install-windows-8-a.html


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My board is set for delivery on tuesday, (most likely monday though as it's already in florida) yet NCIX website has yet to update that it's in the shipping phase.


Yeah I don't know what happened to you guys in the US, but my NCIX order went pretty smoothly.

I placed my pre-order last weekend and NCIX didn't charge my credit card until this past Thursday, late in the afternoon (presumably once the initial stock of boards started arriving at their warehouse(s)).
My board then shipped out the next day (Friday).

When it comes to pre-orders, I never expect things to go quite as planned - If I did, I'd probably drive myself nuts!

Fact is Newegg is a bigger distributor and ultimately has more clout with it's suppliers than NCIX has.
I also know that NCIX can be a little slower at getting goods processed and shipped out, so I generally use them when I'm less in a rush for something - or I go directly to one of their retail locations (I have three that are within a 20 minutes drive from me).

I agree that NCIX could be a little more on-the-ball at times, but in general I've had a fairly good experience with them


----------



## binormalkilla

Well I didn't get to boot the system yet because my top radiator is leaking like crazy. Bad weld it seems. Now I have to deal with frozencpu's return process, which sucks from what I hear.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Where are you seeing all of them? I can only see the Trident X listed under the 2666/2800 speeds in my manual. Everything else I can see is Ripjaws/Sniper. The Trident X SKU's end in 'GTX', or in the case of this manual 'GTXD'.
> 
> I just bought a 32gb quad kit of Trident X 2400 CL10 for this board -- here's hoping it works. RSharpe seems to be up and running fine with his Trident's so I have my fingers crossed.


I was originally going to buy the 4x4gb 2400 cas 9 trident x and found it in the manual. It should work though, rivbe is a beast at memory oc and ivy-e has a good imc.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hoping this is still valid.....
> 
> be easy on meh, this is my first intels since C2D, gonna need lots and lots of helps !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also have a 3930k coming, may be purchasing a 4930k for funs too, to swap back and fourth


Grats and added!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Where are you seeing all of them? I can only see the Trident X listed under the 2666/2800 speeds in my manual. Everything else I can see is Ripjaws/Sniper. The Trident X SKU's end in 'GTX', or in the case of this manual 'GTXD'.
> 
> I just bought a 32gb quad kit of Trident X 2400 CL10 for this board -- here's hoping it works. RSharpe seems to be up and running fine with his Trident's so I have my fingers crossed.


Same page on the manual it shows the 32gb kit from Trident X 2400 in there, I verified on mine anyways.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZX2Slow*
> 
> I have the same kit, I havent been able to compete my build yet so I havent even powered the system on yet.


Let us know how it goes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Might as well add me to the list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (this is my shipping confirmation from NCIX.ca)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should have it tomorrow... Just need a video card and I'm good to go!


Grats don't forget your build log if you have one








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> wouldn't the built in sound card siphon off a few lanes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My board is set for delivery on tuesday, (most likely monday though as it's already in florida) yet NCIX website has yet to update that it's in the shipping phase.


I swear its 48 PCI Lanes = the first 8 would go to the onboard functions or at least more of them. still allowing 16x16x8 or 16x8x8x8 respectively.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Yeah I don't know what happened to you guys in the US, but my NCIX order went pretty smoothly.
> 
> I placed my pre-order last weekend and NCIX didn't charge my credit card until this past Thursday, late in the afternoon (presumably once the initial stock of boards started arriving at their warehouse(s)).
> My board then shipped out the next day (Friday).
> 
> When it comes to pre-orders, I never expect things to go quite as planned - If I did, I'd probably drive myself nuts!
> 
> Fact is Newegg is a bigger distributor and ultimately has more clout with it's suppliers than NCIX has.
> I also know that NCIX can be a little slower at getting goods processed and shipped out, so I generally use them when I'm less in a rush for something - or I go directly to one of their retail locations (I have three that are within a 20 minutes drive from me).
> 
> I agree that NCIX could be a little more on-the-ball at times, but in general I've had a fairly good experience with them


You're getting yours fast because more than half the people that ordered pretty much canceled their pre orders, especially since New Egg has more in stock tomorrow. So the left over boards are up for grabs now thanks to their public fiasco w/ their manager and staff, from what it seems , I guess he was running the whole "bait n switch" operation.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Here's the board +ram+cpu+gpu's and the sound card!


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> Here's the board +ram+cpu+gpu's and the sound card!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hoping this is still valid.....
> 
> be easy on meh, this is my first intels since C2D, gonna need lots and lots of helps !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also have a 3930k coming, may be purchasing a 4930k for funs too, to swap back and fourth
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you get your board before 2014! Some of the pre-orders have yet to get their shipping numbers.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZX2Slow*
> 
> I have the same kit, I havent been able to compete my build yet so I havent even powered the system on yet.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Same kit here as well... 2x kits of 2x8gb... I'm hoping stock speeds won't be an issue on my 3930k.
Click to expand...

haha thanks !
i know there have been problems but meh if they dont deliver i cancel and order somewhere else
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Can you guys confirm this board has the same PCI-E layout as the RIVE for 4-way GPU: 16x/8x/8x/8x and they didn't siphon off any lanes for extra crap?


last night somewhere i read they are using pcie2.0 lanes


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> haha thanks !
> i know there have been problems but meh if they dont deliver i cancel and order somewhere else


If you don't have a shipping number by the time newegg lists tomorrow, drop that order like a hot rock.
Quote:


> last night somewhere i read they are using pcie2.0 lanes


what?


----------



## Mega Man

here it is underneath the pic for the I/O

please note i never read anything from these guys before and i do not know how accurate it is
http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-x79-motherboard-review/3/

* woops sorry i forgot to mention it takes it from the x79 chipset


----------



## Unicr0nhunter




----------



## RSharpe

Has anyone tried to do an offset overclock yet? I tried to follow ASUS ROG guide, but they were for the Maximus series of boards, and the BIOS are difference from Rampage IV.

Also, does anyone know how accurate Core Temp's CPU power wattage draw is? It reads as low as 15 watts at idle, and I was wondering if that's an accurate measurement when the board is being fed a constant 1.35V. Especially as I've seen it read as high as 800-1000watts when stress testing.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> here it is underneath the pic for the I/O
> 
> please note i never read anything from these guys before and i do not know how accurate it is
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-x79-motherboard-review/3/
> 
> * woops sorry i forgot to mention it takes it from the x79 chipset


The only time they should run in 2.0 is when on SB-E, which can be easily fixed with a little "hack".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Has anyone tried to do an offset overclock yet? I tried to follow ASUS ROG guide, but they were for the Maximus series of boards, and the BIOS are difference from Rampage IV.
> 
> Also, does anyone know how accurate Core Temp's CPU power wattage draw is? It reads as low as 15 watts at idle, and I was wondering if that's an accurate measurement when the board is being fed a constant 1.35V. Especially as I've seen it read as high as 800-1000watts when stress testing.


If it's anything like a GPU, volts alone will not do allot for power draw. So, once again, if it's like a GPU the clocks need to be their for it to draw the power.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Has anyone tried to do an offset overclock yet? I tried to follow ASUS ROG guide, but they were for the Maximus series of boards, and the BIOS are difference from Rampage IV.
> 
> Also, does anyone know how accurate Core Temp's CPU power wattage draw is? It reads as low as 15 watts at idle, and I was wondering if that's an accurate measurement when the board is being fed a constant 1.35V. Especially as I've seen it read as high as 800-1000watts when stress testing.


yes and this is a simplified explanation

amps is the work being done and voltage is the carrier. and watts is amps * volts

a example

system at 15 watts and 1.35 volts is 11 amps at 1.35 volts so when the system is working or loaded up it is doing a lot more work so the amps go up since they are a measurement of work..

hope this helps!!


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Has anyone tried to do an offset overclock yet? I tried to follow ASUS ROG guide, but they were for the Maximus series of boards, and the BIOS are difference from Rampage IV.
> 
> Also, does anyone know how accurate Core Temp's CPU power wattage draw is? It reads as low as 15 watts at idle, and I was wondering if that's an accurate measurement when the board is being fed a constant 1.35V. Especially as I've seen it read as high as 800-1000watts when stress testing.


My 3930k is at 4.6 with and offset overclock (I assume you mean voltage offset). I have no clue on power draw, I think at 4.6, the 3930k is between 250 and 300w. I haven't had too hard a time going from the maximus v gene to the black edition.


----------



## yttocstfarc

I'm still hung between the 4820k and the 4930k anybody with these processors wanna chime in and give opinions with this board? I'm probably gonna go 4930k unless I can find some good data to talk me out of it. But 200 bucks is 200+ bucks that I could put toward the 3rd graphics card. So I guess you could....call this topic "Get a 4930k or save the extra money and get a 4820k and 3rd 770 for x3 sli


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I'm still hung between the 4820k and the 4930k anybody with these processors wanna chime in and give opinions with this board? I'm probably gonna go 4930k unless I can find some good data to talk me out of it. But 200 bucks is 200+ bucks that I could put toward the 3rd graphics card. So I guess you could....call this topic "Get a 4930k or save the extra money and get a 4820k and 3rd 770 for x3 sli


Look on the first page I posted results from 4820/4930/4960's they all hit pretty high blocks, so its really down to just if you're pure gaming or if you're doing more than just gaming. You'll be happy w/ either but can't go wrong w/ a 6 core either









Today's my last day to return my 4960X and completely forgot about it so I think I'll just take the 400$ sacrifice for the time being... was GONNA go for the 4930k just worried about getting a bad batch.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I'm still hung between the 4820k and the 4930k anybody with these processors wanna chime in and give opinions with this board? I'm probably gonna go 4930k unless I can find some good data to talk me out of it. But 200 bucks is 200+ bucks that I could put toward the 3rd graphics card. So I guess you could....call this topic "Get a 4930k or save the extra money and get a 4820k and 3rd 770 for x3 sli


Only reason to get the 4820k would be is if you're running workstation apps that could utilize the extra cache or make use of quad channel memory. It is still a quad core with HT so you might as well go with Haswell since it is ahead in an ipc generation. Now the 4930k on the other hand has even more cache than the 4770k and 4820k and has 6 cores with HT, and will destroy both in pretty much anything that isn't single threaded these days.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Look on the first page I posted results from 4820/4930/4960's they all hit pretty high blocks, so its really down to just if you're pure gaming or if you're doing more than just gaming. You'll be happy w/ either but can't go wrong w/ a 6 core either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today's my last day to return my 4960X and completely forgot about it so I think I'll just take the 400$ sacrifice for the time being... was GONNA go for the 4930k just worried about getting a bad batch.


Binning differences between the two is a myth, save yourself $400 unless you want e-peen or need the 3mb cache.

And no, "I have seen the X require less voltage for the same clocks" is not a valid response because there is no proof. I for one have seen both be the same, only thing that matters is the lottery.


----------



## szeged

E-peen for the xtreme chips







its only $400 anyways


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Binning differences between the two is a myth, save yourself $400 unless you want e-peen or need the 3mb cache.
> 
> And no, "I have seen the X require less voltage for the same clocks" is not a valid response because there is no proof. I for one have seen both be the same, only thing that matters is the lottery.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> E-peen for the xtreme chips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its only $400 anyways


I'll try to take it back tomorrow and swap it then, I'll use the 400$ for my WC parts. That will at least cover most of the RAD's anyways.

Here's to hoping that Fry's will take it 1 day after, they did before w/ my Air540 and H100i , so maybe..


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> You're getting yours fast because more than half the people that ordered pretty much canceled their pre orders, especially since New Egg has more in stock tomorrow. So the left over boards are up for grabs now thanks to their public fiasco w/ their manager and staff, from what it seems , I guess he was running the whole "bait n switch" operation.


And because newegg is getting its new stocks, there is currently *ZERO* availability in EU countries and in Russia.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> And because newegg is getting its new stocks, there is currently *ZERO* availability in EU countries and in Russia.


I *HATE* to say it, but I think you are correct. Seems NewEgg & Asus are quite cozy together. They don't do international shipping, unless it's military. Which I find silly. They could make allot of money jacking shipping rates. Probably more to it than that though. I would guess some silly law exists somewhere with some international trade organization that states they are not allowed to do so. Hell, they won't even ship "Canadian stock" to the US, even though allot of the orders are fulfilled state side.

I'm starting to see why theirs such a large business reselling early adoption hardware on Ebay. I should snag a bunch of boards & sell them @ 700$ a pop.


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I was originally going to buy the 4x4gb 2400 cas 9 trident x and found it in the manual. It should work though, rivbe is a beast at memory oc and ivy-e has a good imc.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Same page on the manual it shows the 32gb kit from Trident X 2400 in there, I verified on mine anyways.


Not that it really matters at this point as I'll be trying this RAM in the RIVBE anyway, but out of curiosity what page are you guys seeing this? The G.Skill GTX sku's are only listed under the 2666/2800mhz speeds, both in my manual and the PDF manual online.

The Trident X Quad 2400 kits are F3-2400C10Q-32GTX (32gb), 16GTX (16gb), 8GTX (8gb). I can only see GXM, GBZHD, GBPIS and GBZMD (none of which are Trident X) listed under the rest of the speeds so unless I got a different manual than you guys I don't think the 2400-and-under speeds of Trident X are 'officially' supported in the BE.


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> How about you tell people what's really going on with their orders?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or Why they've been told their shipment was going out "tonight" and here we are days later with nothing? Only a Label.


I don't know why the late scan as I do not work for U.P.S., I will look into it tomorrow however. You're insinuating we generated a bunch of shipping labels and didn't ship anything.. which we would never do.


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Chris, I truly don't know what goes on behind the scenes at NCIX. And i really don't know what goes into running a huge operation like that. But i'm not even sure that free 780TI's or 290x's would redeem the way you handled this release. Sorry man...


A little harsh.... you do realize however that were lots of factors here at play and not just NCIX.com right? To be honest I'm less then impressed with the way this all went down also and I will be letting Asus know tomorrow. But that's a problem between us and the supplier/manufacturer. Also, the way we handle new launches will change now as I will not go through another episode like this again. I will be working the Product Management team and my reps in the U.S. to ensure this never occurs again.

I have been here going on close to 5 years and I don't recall anything going nearly this bad, even the Touchpad fiasco from a few years ago was peanuts compared to this and we had 10 times more orders.

Unfortunately this spiraled out of control long before I knew what was going on.... up in Canada I didn't and still haven't received a single complaint because people know we will ship them their products when they arrive and would never intentionally mislead anyone based on the knowledge we had at said time. And we always make good, regardless.

Edit- Typo.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> I don't know why the late scan as I do not work for U.P.S., I will look into it tomorrow however. You're insinuating we generated a bunch of shipping labels and didn't ship anything.. which we would never do.


doesn't matter anymore. Those of us lucky enough to pre-order super early now have our units OTW.



The first scan being in Washington makes me think it may of come from Canada, but theirs no customs scan, & i'm not sure why Canadian UPS (maybe it wasn't ups) wouldn't post scans. 99% of the stuff I order from other countries plots every single scan, including customs.

this is from AquaComputer.(some one elses)










anyways, like i said. It doesn't really matter any more. Iv'e heard allot of NCIX horror stories of that past few weeks. From Titan pre-order's, to just ordering regular stock taking 3+ days to scan in. It must have something to do with your relationship with UPS.


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2-Day shipping, due Tuesday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saturday isn't a business day! OK, fine i'm done complaining for now.... FOR NOW.


Indeed, nor is Sunday. Which is why there has been no progress.


----------



## szeged

Hi chris, someone posted you are accepted more orders for the RIVE-BE, is it true? or will they be going to already done pre orders?

Once again, im glad someone from ncix is here to help clear the air, and apologize for the rabid posters attacking you on sight, we all get worked up about these things from time to time


----------



## yttocstfarc




----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hi chris, someone posted you are accepted more orders for the RIVE-BE, is it true? or will they be going to already done pre orders?
> 
> Once again, im glad someone from ncix is here to help clear the air, and apologize for the rabid posters attacking you on sight, we all get worked up about these things from time to time


Accepting more orders? Seriously? I preordered mine on the 27th of October and it still hasn't shipped. I was informed by phone that it would ship last Thursday.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Accepting more orders? Seriously? I preordered mine on the 27th of October and it still hasn't shipped. I was informed by phone that it would ship last Thursday.


i was asking around about a RIVEBE earlier and someone linked me the page that ncix was accepting more orders, thats all i know, which is why we need to not try to run chris off, so we can actually have reps answer our questions.


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Not to mention threaten to post private information like user emails and orders publicly on public forums lol. Great company policy eh? Eh ? Eeeeehh?


I had no intentions of posting private information, that's just stupid. I was going to snapshot the real E-mail since Luna decided to edit it to make it much worse then it was.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Accepting more orders? Seriously? I preordered mine on the 27th of October and it still hasn't shipped. I was informed by phone that it would ship last Thursday.












guess I should of said, those of us smart enough to pre-order by October 25th.

their stock tracker, (which is likely 12+ hours delayed or more) shows only one unit left in stock. Has since Friday night. I hope it's yours, or that yours has already been pulled. Oh hey look, it's in Washington. That means my unit in fact did not go across Canadian borders, as was hinted towards being the case.

It is slightly offensive that he feels I need to be told Sunday isn't a shipping day. Derp... Use to drive for UPS... It was my only day off. I'm well aware of standardized shipping practices.


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats and added!
> Same page on the manual it shows the 32gb kit from Trident X 2400 in there, I verified on mine anyways.
> Let us know how it goes.
> Grats don't forget your build log if you have one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I swear its 48 PCI Lanes = the first 8 would go to the onboard functions or at least more of them. still allowing 16x16x8 or 16x8x8x8 respectively.
> You're getting yours fast because more than half the people that ordered pretty much canceled their pre orders, especially since New Egg has more in stock tomorrow. So the left over boards are up for grabs now thanks to their public fiasco w/ their manager and staff, from what it seems , I guess he was running the whole "bait n switch" operation.


Sources? This is just...sad. You honestly think I or anyone would stay employed running this type of business?


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i was asking around about a RIVEBE earlier and someone linked me the page that ncix was accepting more orders, thats all i know, which is why we need to not try to run chris off, so we can actually have reps answer our questions.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Yup, I was assured on Friday the rest of the initial allocation we were due would be coming in soon and we have enough to fill our back orders and a few to spare!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't "run off anywhere", I had a warehouse sale to run which I mentioned on Friday. It's nice to have some personal time after working 6 days straight for many long hours.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Sources? This is just...sad. You honestly think I or anyone would stay employed running this type of business?


All we truly know is that your office, & the Canadian office had two completely different stories until ~ November 18th. I hope those who were called Thursday will receive their shipping info soon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hi chris, someone posted you are accepted more orders for the RIVE-BE, is it true? or will they be going to already done pre orders?
> 
> Once again, im glad someone from ncix is here to help clear the air, and apologize for the rabid posters attacking you on sight, we all get worked up about these things from time to time


As of this evening the site now shows back ordered. Asus can't/isn't making them fast enough... That's for sure. Seems they may of underestimated the demand.


----------



## szeged

Thanks chris


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Accepting more orders? Seriously? I preordered mine on the 27th of October and it still hasn't shipped. I was informed by phone that it would ship last Thursday.


Arm3nian, can you kindly PM me with your order and I'll look into it when we start up again tomorrow?


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> All we truly know is that your office, & the Canadian office had two completely different stories until ~ November 18th. I hope those who were called Thursday will receive their shipping info soon.
> As of this evening the site now shows back ordered. Asus can't/isn't making them fast enough... That's for sure. Seems they may of underestimated the demand.


http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=90951 looks fine to me. And you might be right also, 500 dollar motherboards don't usually fly off the shelves (SR boards for example).


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hi chris, someone posted you are accepted more orders for the RIVE-BE, is it true? or will they be going to already done pre orders?
> 
> Once again, im glad someone from ncix is here to help clear the air, and apologize for the rabid posters attacking you on sight, we all get worked up about these things from time to time


I understand this being an enthusiast myself, however some of these attacks against NCIX are pretty horrible and so full of.. well you all know I'm sure. From editing my Reps responses and posting them here, to suggesting I'm the bait and switch manager.. it's kind of amusing but more so annoying. Not to mention some people think that cursing via emails to new employees is going to yield them their motherboards faster when there was none to be had.

They're normal every day people, much like you and me.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=90951 looks fine to me. And you might be right also, 500 dollar motherboards don't usually fly off the shelves (SR boards for example).











I remained civil! Just annoyed.


----------



## degenn

Also can I please get added to the official owners list? Here's my proof:



Thanks


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> All we truly know is that your office, & the Canadian office had two completely different stories until ~


Yes, that is correct. But I was referring to Lunas out in left field post about me being the bait and switch manager and running away and everyone cancelling their orders so it gave it to those next in line.

No such thing ever happened.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess I should of said, those of us smart enough to pre-order by October 25th.
> 
> Oh hey look, it's in Washington. That means my unit in fact did not go across Canadian borders, as was hinted towards being the case.


I hate to be Captain Obvious here, but do you know which State is below British Columbia?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> I hate to be Captain Obvious here, but do you know which State is below British Columbia?


obviously its america, duh.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> A little harsh.... you do realize however that were lots of factors here at play and not just NCIX.com right? To be honest I'm less then impressed with the way this all went down also and I will be letting Asus know tomorrow. But that's a problem between us and the supplier/manufacturer. Also, the way we handle new launches will change now as I will not go through another episode like this again. I will be working the Product Management team and my reps in the U.S. to ensure this never occurs again.
> 
> I have been here going on close to 5 years and I don't recall anything going nearly this bad, even the Touchpad fiasco from a few years ago was peanuts compared to this and we had 10 times more orders.
> 
> Unfortunately this spiraled out of control long before I knew what was going on.... up in Canada I didn't and still haven't received a single complaint because people know we will ship them their products when they arrive and would never intentionally mislead anyone based on the knowledge we had at said time. And we always make good, regardless.
> 
> Edit- Typo.


You have to understand, you have a vested interest in NCIX, so considering all that you just said about the negatives, try to look at it from the perspectives of the people that got screwed and could've ordered from somewhere else. I don't think it was harsh....

I don't have anything against you personally, and yes s**t absolutely happens. I didn't even order from NCIX so you don't have to value my opinion at all, but there was definite games being played with customers. Any reasonable person can understand release dates being pushed back, but it's all the "We just spoke to our suppliers and the order will be drop-shipped tomorrow" that's unacceptable. I really can't imagine that Asus set you guys up for failure to the point that on Oct 29th, then 31st, then Nov 3rd, then Nov 7th they kept on telling you that you'll receive the orders by tomorrow even though the board wasn't gonna be released for another 2-3 weeks.....

Sorry if I'm harsh, but i can't help but feel bad for people that ordered and PAYED for their $500 motherboards 3 weeks before i did, and i got mine a week b4 they did. If it wasn't such a big release of such a critical component it wouldn't be as big of a deal. But a release like this will have multiple people with thousands of dollars worth of hardware sitting and waiting for the release. People will have spent their last 3 paychecks on a CPU and GPU's because they were told the board would be here in the next cpl days when they could've actually went grocery shopping that week









Anyway, like i said, I don't think that YOU personally made sure that everybody got screwed with. And it is good that you're at least here giving support now although it was much more needed over the past month. /endrant


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> I hate to be Captain Obvious here, but do you know which State is below British Columbia?


I'm going to have to go with Mexico.

Are you insinuating that Canada doesn't do customs like the mexico boarder or any other international body? They just ride the package to the border via horse back & toss it to the Washingtonians?


----------



## degenn

I wonder if LunaP will still be as adamant in his claims that I'm the NCIX rep..


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> *Sources?* This is just...sad. You honestly think I or anyone would stay employed running this type of business?


Sources = everyone that posted their cancellation and updated with their NewEgg Tracking. Enron did it for almost a decade









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Also can I please get added to the official owners list? Here's my proof:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Already added you early on when I saw the tracking receipt~ Congrats though, hope to see the build log too, let us know what clocks you get!


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is slightly offensive that he feels I need to be told Sunday isn't a shipping day. Derp... Use to drive for UPS... It was my only day off. I'm well aware of standardized shipping practices.


Then why are you comparing an international shipment which someone obviously paid much more money for to have delivered versus a standard shipping like you did in your previous posts?


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Already added you early on when I saw the tracking receipt~ Congrats though, hope to see the build log too, let us know what clocks you get!


Cool beans, thanks. My build won't be too exciting for now as I'm going to be waiting for the 780Ti waterblocks and RIV:BE motherboard blocks before assembling my custom loop









I'll be running it with an H100i and the GPU's on-air until the blocks are available. I will still post my results/screenshots though and am hoping to get a good OC as it seems my 4930k is one of the better batches (B664). I'll also let you guys know if my Trident X ram does indeed work well with no issues.

The pictures should be pretty funny as I'll be putting this into an STH10 -- it will look hilarious with none of my watercooling gear in there. Will be an empty cavernous cave, haha.


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You have to understand, you have a vested interest in NCIX, so considering all that you just said about the negatives, try to look at it from the perspectives of the people that got screwed and could've ordered from somewhere else. I don't think it was harsh....
> 
> I don't have anything against you personally, and yes s**t absolutely happens. I didn't even order from NCIX so you don't have to value my opinion at all, but there was definite games being played with customers. Any reasonable person can understand release dates being pushed back, but it's all the "We just spoke to our suppliers and the order will be drop-shipped tomorrow" that's unacceptable. I really can't imagine that Asus set you guys up for failure to the point that on Oct 29th, then 31st, then Nov 3rd, then Nov 7th they kept on telling you that you'll receive the orders by tomorrow even though the board wasn't gonna be released for another 2-3 weeks.....
> 
> Sorry if I'm harsh, but i can't help but feel bad for people that ordered and PAYED for their $500 motherboards 3 weeks before i did, and i got mine a week b4 they did. If it wasn't such a big release of such a critical component it wouldn't be as big of a deal. But a release like this will have multiple people with thousands of dollars worth of hardware sitting and waiting for the release. People will have spent their last 3 paychecks on a CPU and GPU's because they were told the board would be here in the next cpl days when they could've actually went grocery shopping that week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, like i said, I don't think that YOU personally made sure that everybody got screwed with. And it is good that you're at least here giving support now although it was much more needed over the past month. /endrant


I appreciate the civility, thanks.

1) There's absolutely no reason in the world NewEgg should have gotten theirs before us, period. We should have received them at the same time.

2) We were given many dates that this should have shipped, Luna can confirm this also since he posted on the ROG forums and complained about the same thing and eventually got timed out for it.

3) If I has known this was going to be such a mess, I would have gotten involved personally much sooner. In the last week I have had to 1) prep Xbox launch, 2 prep PS4 launch and 3) prep the warehouse sale we had yesterday. Unfortunately I am only one human being.

As for the drop ship info from my reps, one is new and I already spoke with all involved concerning these kinds of launches/products in the years to come. You can only take my word for it, however please trust me when I say no one would intentionally mis-lead you or anyone about their orders. I can assure you they would not be working at NCIX for very long if they did.

Call flow: Where's my motherboard? Ill check with purchasing. Check with purchasing, here's the date. We tell people, here's the date. Date comes, nothing ships. We get in touch with purchasing again, they tell us another date. etc etc... and this is all based off of dates they're getting from someone. Who that someone is a rather key factor here, as he or she is the one who manufactures them and allocates them to suppliers/re-sellers.

As a courtesy for the late release date, we 2 day aired/expressed everyone's orders from Canada.. that's pretty much the most we can do. And fix the communication chains going forward also.. which I will work on.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Cool beans, thanks. My build won't be too exciting for now as I'm going to be waiting for the 780Ti waterblocks and RIV:BE motherboard blocks before assembling my custom loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be running it with an H100i and the GPU's on-air until the blocks are available. I will still post my results/screenshots though and am hoping to get a good OC as it seems my 4930k is one of the better batches (B664). I'll also let you guys know if my Trident X ram does indeed work well with no issues.
> 
> The pictures should be pretty funny as I'll be putting this into an STH10 -- it will look hilarious with none of my watercooling gear in there. Will be an empty cavernous cave, haha.


Curious are you going reverse ATX or Standard, and if reverse is it for looks or ?


----------



## iatacs19

It would be good business practice to apologize to your customers first and foremost, then provide an excuse or explanation as to why the launch for this product failed.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iatacs19*
> 
> It would be good business practice to apologize to your customers first and foremost, then provide an excuse or explanation as to why the launch for this product failed.


^ This

Though many of us have mentioned this many times before but the standard response is "Not us is Asus" but that still doesn't equate for the "We're shipping it tonight" then 2 days later "It's being shipped" then the weekend we find a packing slip. With 2 business days out. That + the attitudes in the email's and the way reps would come off.

This and other things which have yet to be addressed. I'm over it now that others are getting their shipments, I've had mine since Monday due to ordering from New Egg as a safety measure. My anger was mainly for the community in all it's unfairness.


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iatacs19*
> 
> It would be good business practice to apologize to your customers first and foremost, then provide an excuse or explanation as to why the launch for this product failed.


We have, and do, and will continue to do so for some time I'm afraid. This goes without say....

I don't even know for sure yet exactly why, as I was busy attending to other things last week. But I will find out. However throwing people under buses isn't really a good career move, so even when I do find out it won't be communicated publicly. I can only make sure it doesn't happen again.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Then why are you comparing an international shipment which someone obviously paid much more money for to have delivered versus a standard shipping like you did in your previous posts?


It's all gobbldygoop @ this point. Too many stories & communications. I compared an international shipping order to what is assumed to be shipping from Canada but thanks to a kind member here I now theory as to why their's no customs scan between USA & Canada, & why my Aqua-Computer order actually showed scans before entering the USA.

This is my shipping status from aquatuning. I didn't pay "much more" for it. I guess Aquatuning takes the hit, since the package came straight from Germany. Shipping was actually less then what I originally chose @ Ncix.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Just to re-iterate, it's pretty poor business practice to have completely different stories between locations. Canada was on point the entire time with "We don't know" instead of 29th, 31st, 5th, 12th... I understand fully that random asus.rog.forum mods gave approximate dates. Really my main issue the whole time were the claims of "It's in transit to our warehouse" for 3 weeks.

anyways...










Board should be here monday/tuesday, & i can finally get started on this 5,000$ pile of parts.


----------



## Cool Mike

Playing around overclocking with my RIVBE today. Learned few interesting tidbits today.

As most of us know a higher bus speed (Ex. 125Mhz) helps on memory and cpu overclocking. A few days ago I was trying to overclock my 32gb 2400 10-12-12-30 memory to 2666 @ 11-13-13-35 but was crashing consistently 3-5 loops into Intel burn (standard setting). The problem was my CPU clock was at its absolute max of 4.6Ghz (1.43V coreV). Dropped the cpu freq. a very small amount to 4.5Ghz with a coreV at 1.39V. Wow what a difference, cooler cpu temps and 32gb 2400 memory running at 2666 11-13-13-35 timings. Intel Burn set to high passes all 10 loops now. before Intel burn at standard setting would not run.
I could never achieve this on the previous version Rampage IV. The black has been optimized for memory speed for sure.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> Playing around overclocking with my RIVBE today. Learned few interesting tidbits today.
> 
> As most of us know a higher bus speed (Ex. 125Mhz) helps on memory and cpu overclocking. A few days ago I was trying to overclock my 32gb 2400 10-12-12-30 memory to 2666 @ 11-13-13-35 but was crashing consistently 3-5 loops into Intel burn (standard setting). The problem was my CPU clock was at its absolute max of 4.6Ghz (1.43V coreV). Dropped the cpu freq. a very small amount to 4.5Ghz with a coreV at 1.39V. Wow what a difference, cooler cpu temps and 32gb 2400 memory running at 2666 11-13-13-35 timings. Intel Burn set to high passes all 10 loops now. before Intel burn at standard setting would not run.
> I could never achieve this on the previous version Rampage IV. The black has been optimized for memory speed for sure.


making me so so jelly!!!! I have the RIVE and want the BE.. by the way what CPU?


----------



## DBaer

Guys, a few questions...
I FINALLY got some time to start assembling and I must say that I really love this 900D case.

OK, so questions on power. I have my 24 pin and 8 pin connectors in. I am not sure if I want to add the extra 4 pin power (top of the board left of the 8 pin). It is for extra CPU power correct. It would be easy to connect, do I need it and any harm in connecting it just in case? I am going to OC but to the extreme. When would I populate this plug?

As for the EZ plug on the bottom, below the PCIe sockets, that is for extra power for multiple GPU's. I am going to start with a pair of EVGA GTX 780Ti superclocked GPU's . I am assuming that I do not need to connect additional power to this plug,....but... again the same question, will it do any harm? While I am not planning on a 3rd GPU at this time if I ever did it would be easier to have the connection already wired..
A second question on this EZ plug, is that a cover that pops off? Before I put any force to it I want to be sure that it is supposed to come off.
Simple questions I know but the last board I built on was my Rampage II (still running great).
Thanks.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> making me so so jelly!!!! I have the RIVE and want the BE.. by the way what CPU?


You know you're gonna order one. Might as well just get it over with


----------



## Cool Mike

4930K. I will run pure memory testing tomorrow.
I had my BE in hand last Tuesday.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You know you're gonna order one. Might as well just get it over with


yes but not until they release the waterblocks.. might as well play with what I got now!! if I can get back to that point.

but what I am curious about is that yes it seems the BE is getting better memory clocks but it is always with the 4 series CPU. So i wonder if a 3930k is going to be able to do the same since the memory controller is part of this??


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> ^ This
> 
> Though many of us have mentioned this many times before but the standard response is "Not us is Asus" but that still doesn't equate for the "We're shipping it tonight" then 2 days later "It's being shipped" then the weekend we find a packing slip. With 2 business days out. That + the attitudes in the email's and the way reps would come off.
> 
> This and other things which have yet to be addressed. I'm over it now that others are getting their shipments, I've had mine since Monday due to ordering from New Egg as a safety measure. My anger was mainly for the community in all it's unfairness.


Luna,

All my reps have been more then courteous to you and everyone calling in and E-mailing, I kindly ask you to please stop attacking us. You're really not helping the situation at all and I understand that your toy has been delayed, but does that justify the means to verbally attack someone for making a mistake based on information received from others? Heck, you even saw they were unsure of the launch date on their own site. Let's just try and move on, ok?

I am genuinely sorry to you and everyone that this happened too which is why I am spending the little free time I have this weekend to remind people that 1) we are humans, we do make mistakes 2) we are not a bunch of tyrants or trolls dancing around a pile of the motherboards ordered gleefully while everyone suffers and complains, like others have depicted us to be previously and 3) and I said before, we should have gotten them on the same date. But we didn't, so we did the best we could under the circumstances.

If anyone feels genuinely wronged or that my reps did not handle the situation like I either taught them or guided them to do, then please PM and I will look into each and every matter myself and respond back to you after I've had a chance to look into it. Please keep in mind this is during Pacific business hours 9-5:30- no weekends. Except this, sorta


----------



## kpoeticg

Well one of the main focuses of the board, that Asus said, was the DRAM layout on the mobo. So i'd imagine there will be benefits for both generations. But obviously since like you said the IMC is on the CPU, it's not gonna be anything close to what you'd get with an IB-E


----------



## szeged

i wish intel would have released haswell-e along with haswell lol, i feel dirt going from a haswell to an ivy, but higher physics scores on 3dmark are calling my name


----------



## skupples

Lesson learned, NewEgg has a lock on pretty much all day one crates of high end goodies.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Lesson learned, NewEgg has a lock on pretty much all day one crates of high end goodies.


atleast with asus products







im pretty sure paul had a hand in it since him and jj have their hands down each others pants all the time


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Guys, a few questions...
> I FINALLY got some time to start assembling and I must say that I really love this 900D case.
> 
> OK, so questions on power. I have my 24 pin and 8 pin connectors in. I am not sure if I want to add the extra 4 pin power (top of the board left of the 8 pin). It is for extra CPU power correct. It would be easy to connect, do I need it and any harm in connecting it just in case? I am going to OC but to the extreme. When would I populate this plug?
> 
> As for the EZ plug on the bottom, below the PCIe sockets, that is for extra power for multiple GPU's. I am going to start with a pair of EVGA GTX 780Ti superclocked GPU's . I am assuming that I do not need to connect additional power to this plug,....but... again the same question, will it do any harm? While I am not planning on a 3rd GPU at this time if I ever did it would be easier to have the connection already wired..
> A second question on this EZ plug, is that a cover that pops off? Before I put any force to it I want to be sure that it is supposed to come off.
> Simple questions I know but the last board I built on was my Rampage II (still running great).
> Thanks.


I assumed that there's an 8 and a 4 pin for CPU power just to give you the option, and 8 would be more than sufficient. But people in here that are more knowledge-able on the subject have been saying that it's extra power for OC'ing. So i can't really help with that

The EZ plug is for 3 or 4 GPU's. Technically it shouldn't have negative effect plugged in with 2 GPU's, but i've heard of it causing problems on the Vanilla RIVE.

By EZ plug are you talking about VGA Hotwire with the cover that pops off? The EZ Plug for GPU's is a 4-Pin Molex on the bottom of the board, nothing to pop off. The OC Panel has a cover that slides off, exposing the VGA Hotwire points


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> atleast with asus products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im pretty sure paul had a hand in it since him and jj have their hands down each others pants all the time


Same thing happened with Titan release from what I can tell early on in club titan, but yeah. JJ & Paul obviously have... nvm...


----------



## Cool Mike

Very true. I ran the same 4930K in the older gen MOBO and my max was 2400 and that was pushing it. With the older gen I could hit 2400 (32gb is much tougher to achieve) stable with 1.35 on the memory cont. With the RIVBE I am hitting 2666 at 1.35V. Big Improvement in my book.


----------



## LunaP

Anyone tested w/ the Trident X 32gb or any of the 2400 set's for X yet?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Luna,
> 
> All my reps have been more then courteous to you and everyone calling in and E-mailing, I kindly ask you to please stop attacking us. You're really not helping the situation at all and I understand that your toy has been delayed, but does that justify the means to verbally attack someone for making a mistake based on information received from others? Heck, you even saw they were unsure of the launch date on their own site. Let's just try and move on, ok?


I was explaining to the person above , please try to calm down.I believe most people have moved on from this, you seem to want to keep bringing up the fact that you did no wrong, as the emails and conversations that we have went on this is the conclusion due to the unprofessional behavior and attitude given that + no consistent stories. I understand your role is to come on here to help with damage control but shifting the blame and pulling cover up stories just to make it look like it was 1 sided is far from that. At least you're apologizing and that's mainly what many wanted, so we appreciate it.

No need to pull a Paula Deen here, So yes please move on and do as you stated and do your best to ensure this doesn't happen again. Simple as that.


----------



## Cool Mike

Not sure you guys remember me saying Newegg would have the BE and had a great relationship with Asus way before the BE hit Newegg's web site.


----------



## Cool Mike

I haven't tested on the BE, but I am sure the Trident's would. Don't quote me on that. Trident's are good stuff.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I assumed that there's an 8 and a 4 pin for CPU power just to give you the option, and 8 would be more than sufficient. But people in here that are more knowledge-able on the subject have been saying that it's extra power for OC'ing. So i can't really help with that
> 
> The EZ plug is for 3 or 4 GPU's. Technically it shouldn't have negative effect plugged in with 2 GPU's, but i've heard of it causing problems on the Vanilla RIVE.
> 
> By EZ plug are you talking about VGA Hotwire with the cover that pops off? The EZ Plug for GPU's is a 4-Pin Molex on the bottom of the board, nothing to pop off. The OC Panel has a cover that slides off, exposing the VGA Hotwire points


The EZ plug that is confusing me is the one between the TPM connector and audio connectors on the bottom. It looks like it has a cover on it that says CompuPack . In the manual it shows that location as an ATX power connector. As for the Molex, I do not see it (getting old and my eyesight is not as good, but....)


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Also can I please get added to the official owners list? Here's my proof:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Cool. What Caselabs case are you building this in Degenn?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

P. 1-48 from the manual:



Looks like a standard 4-pin molex to me. It's 90 degrees facing downwards.

edit:


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Anyone tested w/ the Trident X 32gb or any of the 2400 set's for X yet?


RSharpe has been up & running at rated speeds with his 32gb Quad kit of Trident X 2400 CL10 (F3-2400C10Q-32GTX), the same kit I'll be installing. I will be testing the same memory when I assemble my system tomorrow -- will let everyone here know how it goes.

Here's my kit for reference:



The Black is certified to work with Trident X @ 2666mhz and 2800mhz speeds -- I don't see why it wouldn't also work with the same IC's at a lower rated speed of 2400mhz. I'm not expecting to have any problems but pretty sure I've said that before








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Cool. What Caselabs case are you building this in Degenn?


I've got the Magnum STH10







:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> RSharpe has been up & running at rated speeds with his 32gb Quad kit of Trident X 2400 CL10 (F3-2400C10Q-32GTX), the same kit I'll be installing. I will be testing the same memory when I assemble my system tomorrow -- will let everyone here know how it goes.
> 
> Here's my kit for reference:
> 
> 
> 
> The Black is certified to work with Trident X @ 2666mhz and 2800mhz speeds -- I don't see why it wouldn't also work with the same IC's at a lower rated speed of 2400mhz. I'm not expecting to have any problems but pretty sure I've said that before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got the Magnum STH10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice case. Those things are massive.

I've not even bothered trying to push the RAM yet. I'm still trying to figure out how to do an offset voltage.

BTW, running games on ramdisk is great. Especially heavy i/o games like ARMA3.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Cool beans, thanks. My build won't be too exciting for now as I'm going to be waiting for the 780Ti waterblocks and RIV:BE motherboard blocks before assembling my custom loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be running it with an H100i and the GPU's on-air until the blocks are available. I will still post my results/screenshots though and am hoping to get a good OC as it seems my 4930k is one of the better batches (B664). I'll also let you guys know if my Trident X ram does indeed work well with no issues.
> 
> The pictures should be pretty funny as I'll be putting this into an STH10 -- it will look hilarious with none of my watercooling gear in there. Will be an empty cavernous cave, haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curious are you going reverse ATX or Standard, and if reverse is it for looks or ?
Click to expand...

cool things about reverse is looks only pretty much. you get to see your pretty gpu blocks you paid so much monies for, and imo it helps with sagging.

only thermal advantage you would have is if you used passive heatsinks the heat from your gpus would not affect your cpu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Guys, a few questions...
> I FINALLY got some time to start assembling and I must say that I really love this 900D case.
> 
> OK, so questions on power. I have my 24 pin and 8 pin connectors in. I am not sure if I want to add the extra 4 pin power (top of the board left of the 8 pin). It is for extra CPU power correct. It would be easy to connect, do I need it and any harm in connecting it just in case? I am going to OC but to the extreme. When would I populate this plug?
> 
> As for the EZ plug on the bottom, below the PCIe sockets, that is for extra power for multiple GPU's. I am going to start with a pair of EVGA GTX 780Ti superclocked GPU's . I am assuming that I do not need to connect additional power to this plug,....but... again the same question, will it do any harm? While I am not planning on a 3rd GPU at this time if I ever did it would be easier to have the connection already wired..
> A second question on this EZ plug, is that a cover that pops off? Before I put any force to it I want to be sure that it is supposed to come off.
> Simple questions I know but the last board I built on was my Rampage II (still running great).
> Thanks.


things to know about electronics amps are pulled not pushed ( said electronic uses the power it needs not the supply pushing the power it wants into said electronic )

all plugging that in ( any of said connectors ) increases the pool of power you have available so no no harm should be done.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I assumed that there's an 8 and a 4 pin for CPU power just to give you the option, and 8 would be more than sufficient. But people in here that are more knowledge-able on the subject have been saying that it's extra power for OC'ing. So i can't really help with that
> 
> The EZ plug is for 3 or 4 GPU's. Technically it shouldn't have negative effect plugged in with 2 GPU's, but i've heard of it causing problems on the Vanilla RIVE.
> 
> By EZ plug are you talking about VGA Hotwire with the cover that pops off? The EZ Plug for GPU's is a 4-Pin Molex on the bottom of the board, nothing to pop off. The OC Panel has a cover that slides off, exposing the VGA Hotwire points
> 
> 
> 
> The EZ plug that is confusing me is the one between the TPM connector and audio connectors on the bottom. It looks like it has a cover on it that says CompuPack . In the manual it shows that location as an ATX power connector. As for the Molex, I do not see it (getting old and my eyesight is not as good, but....)
Click to expand...

it is at a 90deg angle
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> P. 1-48 from the manual:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a standard 4-pin molex to me. It's 90 degrees facing downwards.
> 
> edit:


i saw that i think asus just cut and pasted the old board manual. it is not the first time i seen this, however they change some parts... but yes it does say 6 pin pcie power connector later on. i can show you at a later time if you want, but not on my laptop.

side note chris you called me iirc ( asked for no sig and it was shipped with sig ) thanks for taking the time to talk to us. hopefully this gets taken care of quickly i bought from CAN so ...... we will see

another side note, if you have not tryed caselabs you should, i am in the middle of a debate, abandon another build, ( m8 ) for tx10-d...... or have dual M8s on my desk..... may go for the dual m8s me thinks, get the other in white, and flip the outside panels so the cases are white/black black/white......


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> cool things about reverse is looks only pretty much. you get to see your pretty gpu blocks you paid so much monies for, and imo it helps with sagging.
> 
> only thermal advantage you would have is if you used passive heatsinks the heat from your gpus would not affect your cpu.
> things to know about electronics amps are pulled not pushed ( said electronic uses the power it needs not the supply pushing the power it wants into said electronic )
> 
> all plugging that in ( any of said connectors ) increases the pool of power you have available so no no harm should be done.
> it is at a 90deg angle
> i saw that i think asus just cut and pasted the old board manual. it is not the first time i seen this, however they change some parts... but yes it does say 6 pin pcie power connector later on. i can show you at a later time if you want, but not on my laptop.
> 
> side note chris you called me iirc ( asked for no sig and it was shipped with sig ) thanks for taking the time to talk to us. hopefully this gets taken care of quickly i bought from CAN so ...... we will see
> 
> another side note, if you have not tryed caselabs you should, i am in the middle of a debate, abandon another build, ( m8 ) for tx10-d...... or have dual M8s on my desk..... may go for the dual m8s me thinks, get the other in white, and flip the outside panels so the cases are white/black black/white......


Get the TX10-D it is a awesome case and you will not regret it.... you can get half the case black and half white


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> [...] i saw that i think asus just cut and pasted the old board manual. it is not the first time i seen this, however they change some parts... but yes it does say 6 pin pcie power connector later on. i can show you at a later time if you want, but not on my laptop. [...]


Not sure what you mean. Maybe I misunderstand what you wrote, but everything I posted from the manual seems correct for the RIVBE.

The EZ_PLUG at the bottom is a 4-pin molex, not a 6-pin pcie. I'm looking at my board right here. I had even posted a picture of it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You have to understand, you have a vested interest in NCIX, so considering all that you just said about the negatives, try to look at it from the perspectives of the people that got screwed and could've ordered from somewhere else. I don't think it was harsh....
> 
> I don't have anything against you personally, and yes s**t absolutely happens. I didn't even order from NCIX so you don't have to value my opinion at all, but there was definite games being played with customers. Any reasonable person can understand release dates being pushed back, but it's all the "We just spoke to our suppliers and the order will be drop-shipped tomorrow" that's unacceptable. I really can't imagine that Asus set you guys up for failure to the point that on Oct 29th, then 31st, then Nov 3rd, then Nov 7th they kept on telling you that you'll receive the orders by tomorrow even though the board wasn't gonna be released for another 2-3 weeks.....
> 
> Sorry if I'm harsh, but i can't help but feel bad for people that ordered and PAYED for their $500 motherboards 3 weeks before i did, and i got mine a week b4 they did. If it wasn't such a big release of such a critical component it wouldn't be as big of a deal. But a release like this will have multiple people with thousands of dollars worth of hardware sitting and waiting for the release. People will have spent their last 3 paychecks on a CPU and GPU's because they were told the board would be here in the next cpl days when they could've actually went grocery shopping that week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, like i said, I don't think that YOU personally made sure that everybody got screwed with. And it is good that you're at least here giving support now although it was much more needed over the past month. /endrant
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate the civility, thanks.
> 
> 1) There's absolutely no reason in the world NewEgg should have gotten theirs before us, period. We should have received them at the same time.
> 
> 2) We were given many dates that this should have shipped, Luna can confirm this also since he posted on the ROG forums and complained about the same thing and eventually got timed out for it.
> 
> 3) If I has known this was going to be such a mess, I would have gotten involved personally much sooner. In the last week I have had to 1) prep Xbox launch, 2 prep PS4 launch and 3) prep the warehouse sale we had yesterday. Unfortunately I am only one human being.
> 
> As for the drop ship info from my reps, one is new and I already spoke with all involved concerning these kinds of launches/products in the years to come. You can only take my word for it, however please trust me when I say no one would intentionally mis-lead you or anyone about their orders. I can assure you they would not be working at NCIX for very long if they did.
> 
> Call flow: Where's my motherboard? Ill check with purchasing. Check with purchasing, here's the date. We tell people, here's the date. Date comes, nothing ships. We get in touch with purchasing again, they tell us another date. etc etc... and this is all based off of dates they're getting from someone. Who that someone is a rather key factor here, as he or she is the one who manufactures them and allocates them to suppliers/re-sellers.
> 
> As a courtesy for the late release date, we 2 day aired/expressed everyone's orders from Canada.. that's pretty much the most we can do. And fix the communication chains going forward also.. which I will work on.
Click to expand...

It is good to see that you are involved with the QAQC of your personnel, you have to understand that people here were just a little angry about being mislead by the personnel whom work with your company. With all that being said it takes some intestinal fortitude to come on a Forum and let people vent frustrations on you personally where as you have now become the target for anger and not just NCIX as a company.

I hope that you stay on OCN as we do need more vendor reps. I am no way defending the actions of your company but I do think it takes alot of balls to come on a forum even when you know your going to get shot in the face verbally by many angry people.

SEMPER FI.

On a side note 21 days and a bag and drag and I get to build my PC.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> [...] i saw that i think asus just cut and pasted the old board manual. it is not the first time i seen this, however they change some parts... but yes it does say 6 pin pcie power connector later on. i can show you at a later time if you want, but not on my laptop. [...]
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what you mean. Maybe I misunderstand what you wrote, but everything I posted from the manual seems correct for the RIVBE.
> 
> The EZ_PLUG at the bottom is a 4-pin molex, not a 6-pin pcie. I'm looking at my board right here. I had even posted a picture of it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...



some parts of the manual were just copy pastes from the RIVE manual


----------



## _REAPER_

I am thinking to get the 4960X I need someone to talk me out of it or it shall be done today lol..... Keep in mind money is not really an issue and that PCI 3.0 is faster than 2.0. That is the real motivator here


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am thinking to get the 4960X I need someone to talk me out of it or it shall be done today lol..... Keep in mind *money is not really an issue* and that PCI 3.0 is faster than 2.0. That is the real motivator here


get the 4960x


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am thinking to get the 4960X I need someone to talk me out of it or it shall be done today lol..... Keep in mind money is not really an issue and that PCI 3.0 is faster than 2.0. That is the real motivator here


i thought sandy does have PCIE 3.0... but if money is not an issue.... then get the 4960x nothing really bad to say about it


----------



## szeged

"out of the box" sandy didnt get 3.0 unless im mistaken.


----------



## Redshift 91

do we still need the force enable hack for pcie 3.0 on the black edition if running SB-e. I'm not sure, but I think I saw my titan post at 3.0 x16 native (I don't have my seasonic running right now, so only 1 titan is enabled through the dip switches). I will check tomorrow and confirm. It was my recollection that the x79 chipset wasn't rated for pcie 3.0 or something, and that it didn't have anything to do with the cpu. I could be 100% wrong though, input is greatly appreciated.


----------



## _REAPER_

To hell with it I ordered it


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Also can I please get added to the official owners list? Here's my proof:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


What version and color on the primochill acrylic compression fitting did you get? I got black revolver diamond knurled fittings. Bought boxes of the 4 packs... but just noticed that FCPU is now carrying the 10 packs which comes with the wrench.









Pretty much the same price... maybe a couple dollars more (price of the wrench), so no big.


----------



## jamiee

Wow, I went to sleep and the forum went buck-wild overnight, NICE!









Hopping my baby Black arrives today.....


----------



## DooRules

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Yes, that is correct. But I was referring to Lunas out in left field post about me being the bait and switch manager and running away and everyone cancelling their orders so it gave it to those next in line.
> 
> No such thing ever happened.


Cancelled my order here in Canada at NCIX because they had absolutely no clue what was going on, had my money for 6 weeks. I ordered it from another online retailer, won't at best have it till next week sometime.

I have used NCIX for years, done with that. I would not buy a pencil off that site now. And I will be sure to pass on the awesome support NCIX had on this mobo.

If the head guys at NCIX sat down to plot a worse strategy they couldn't beat the one they used, lmao at this point.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DooRules*
> 
> Cancelled my order here in Canada at NCIX because they had absolutely no clue what was going on, had my money for 6 weeks. I ordered it from another online retailer, won't at best have it till next week sometime.
> 
> I have used NCIX for years, done with that. I would not buy a pencil off that site now. And I will be sure to pass on the awesome support NCIX had on this mobo.
> 
> If the head guys at NCIX sat down to plot a worse strategy they couldn't beat the one they used, lmao at this point.


Maybe you shouldn't have canceled your NCIX order?

Here's the proof....


----------



## DooRules

I've got 780 ti's inbound, bunch of other stuff, was never in a panic to get the mobo. The fact that they had my money for 6 weeks and still had no clue as to what was going on was more than enough for me to justify cancelling.

When I called the girl told me that the first shipment in "Sept" was all gone and that hopefully I would get one on the next shipment. No freaking kidding, first order in Sept indeed, lol. That was my see ya later moment with NCIX for good.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DooRules*
> 
> I've got 780 ti's inbound, bunch of other stuff, was never in a panic to get the mobo. The fact that they had my money for 6 weeks and still had no clue as to what was going on was more than enough for me to justify cancelling.
> 
> When I called the girl told me that the first shipment in "Sept" was all gone and that hopefully I would get one on the next shipment. No freaking kidding, first order in Sept indeed, lol. That was my see ya later moment with NCIX for good.


What was the method of payment that you selected? I've found in the past that if I select Paypal, the money is immediately taken out when the order is placed, regardless of when the order is shipped. When I use direct credit card, I'm never charged by the store until shipping. This is why I rarely use Paypal with online stores. I originally pre-ordered with a CC and was never charged before I cancelled my pre-order on 11/19 and switched my order to Newegg.ca.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DooRules*
> 
> I've got 780 ti's inbound, bunch of other stuff, was never in a panic to get the mobo. The fact that they had my money for 6 weeks and still had no clue as to what was going on was more than enough for me to justify cancelling.
> 
> When I called the girl told me that the first shipment in "Sept" was all gone and that hopefully I would get one on the next shipment. No freaking kidding, first order in Sept indeed, lol. That was my see ya later moment with NCIX for good.


Yeah I'm looking to get a GTX 780 Ti as well (maybe two?).
Ideally I'd like the EVGA 780 Ti Classified - but I don't know when it going to be released... so I may end up settling for the Superclocked ACX.
Problem is nobody in Canada seems to have stock, and they are awfully pricey right now no matter where you shop.


----------



## DooRules

I used paypal at NCIX. Got my money back no problem.

Yeah I have two ti's inbound, got two blocks from Aqua ordered, supposed to ship today, not holding my breath on that one.









I was hoping a dual bios version would drop by now, but no worries, I'm sure these will flash just fine.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DooRules*
> 
> I used paypal at NCIX. Got my money back no problem.


Yeah. But the problem is that people complain about being charged before an item is shipped. That's caused by the way Paypal works with these stores. Don't use Paypal if you don't want this to possibly happen. Especially with pre-orders.


----------



## Cool Mike

If money is not an issue then get the 4960x for sure.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> If money is not an issue then get the 4960x for sure.


I went ahead and got the 4960X I am going to have to get your Bios settings for 4.6GHZ


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am thinking to get the 4960X I need someone to talk me out of it or it shall be done today lol..... Keep in mind money is not really an issue and that PCI 3.0 is faster than 2.0. That is the real motivator here


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> get the 4960x


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> To hell with it I ordered it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> If money is not an issue then get the 4960x for sure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I went ahead and got the 4960X I am going to have to get your Bios settings for 4.6GHZ


lol damn you people, I brought my 4960X w/ me to work today so I could exchange it back @ Fry's for a 4930k, seeing as there's no difference now it seems between the 4930 and the 4960 batches, at least that anyone can find anymore. I'm guessing since the 2nd gen CPU's the X is just a way of getting extra $$ to Intel, seeing as from the batches I posted up that they're both achieving nearly the same clocks |:

And since both have access to the X multiplier in the bios, it really is just bragging rights it seems, heck I can't even back up my own purchase with it anymore









I tried..lol







but 450$ is definitely a nice savings I can use towards another Titan or WC parts.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> lol damn you people, I brought my 4960X w/ me to work today so I could exchange it back @ Fry's for a 4930k, seeing as there's no difference now it seems between the 4930 and the 4960 batches, at least that anyone can find anymore. I'm guessing since the 2nd gen CPU's the X is just a way of getting extra $$ to Intel, seeing as from the batches I posted up that they're both achieving nearly the same clocks |:
> 
> And since both have access to the X multiplier in the bios, it really is just bragging rights it seems, heck I can't even back up my own purchase with it anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried..lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but 450$ is definitely a nice savings I can use towards another Titan or WC parts.


If Intel had competition the X would be priced no where near what it is now. And as you said, using the multiplier over the fsb was a feature back in the day, not anymore.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> P. 1-48 from the manual:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a standard 4-pin molex to me. It's 90 degrees facing downwards.
> 
> edit:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you THANK YOU THANK YOU. It was the 90 degrees facing downward that I did not notice. I looked the board over before I installed it but I did not recall seeing that Molex. Missing something so simple can cause so much frustration







I really appreciate you taking the time to cover that detail.







(a rep for your efforts)

MegaMan, Rep to you also, thank you for the additional follow up. Yes I know that electron flow is not a push but a draw, I had Ohms law up to here when I was getting my EE so very many years ago, but with computer motherboards strange things happed based on the circuit design. I think I am going to add the additional 4 pin on top for the CPU but wait and see if I need the Molex as I am only using two GPU's.

Thanks again to you both


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> lol damn you people, I brought my 4960X w/ me to work today so I could exchange it back @ Fry's for a 4930k, seeing as there's no difference now it seems between the 4930 and the 4960 batches, at least that anyone can find anymore. I'm guessing since the 2nd gen CPU's
> 
> 
> the X is just a way of getting extra $$ to Intel,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> seeing as from the batches I posted up that they're both achieving nearly the same clocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> And since both have access to the X multiplier in the bios,
> 
> 
> it really is just bragging rights it seems,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> heck I can't even back up my own purchase with it anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried..lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but 450$ is definitely a nice savings I can use towards another Titan or WC parts.


=Epeen









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> *If Intel had competition the X would be priced no where near what it is now*. And as you said, using the multiplier over the fsb was a feature back in the day, not anymore.


Amen!!!!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> If Intel had competition the X would be priced no where near what it is now. And as you said, using the multiplier over the fsb was a feature back in the day, not anymore.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> =Epeen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amen!!!!


Yeah, sucks too cuz the X just sounds cooler. 4930k Club here I come.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Thank you THANK YOU THANK YOU. It was the 90 degrees facing downward that I did not notice. I looks the board over before I installed it but I did not recall seeing that Molex. Missing something so simple can cause so much frustration
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really appreciate you taking the time to cover that detail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (a rep for your efforts)


LOL! I also missed this. It's not like I've looked at the board from its side. I didn't have any problems, although I'm only using 2 cards in SLI and they're not overclocked.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> LOL! I also missed this. It's not like I've looked at the board from its side. I didn't have any problems, although I'm only using 2 cards in SLI and they're not overclocked.


How do guys get the sexiest mobo ever created delivered to u, and not look at every mm?


----------



## Porgy

Newegg didn't get their stock in as expected.







Another week goes by without a gaming comp


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> How do guys get the sexy mobo ever created delivered to u, and not look at every mm?


OMG, I agree and in fact I did take a few moments to admire it when I opened the box, I still have a business to run and lots of RL stuff. Once I installed it however and set my case back vertical the angle was just wrong. If I had done what you suggest however I would have saved an hour trying to figure it out


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> ....If I had done what you suggest however I would have saved an hour trying to figure it out


Or spent like 3 days taking unboxing photos like i did


----------



## eduncan911

Tried searching a bit but didn't seem to find anyone talking about this yet...

Is anyone concerned that the last 3 mosfets (aka VRMs) aren't covered by the heatsink?

If you see in the pic below, the 3rd one doesn't make contact with the thermal pad either.


----------



## FiveEYZ

Ppl in the EU can soon join the club!







I have been waiting since 2013/09/29 and ETA is atm 2013/12/06.









aww man i cant wait! been having my build on hold for over 3 months now







have bought a Ergotech Triple Monitor Desk Stand and 2 Asus vg278he to fill the void.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Tried searching a bit but didn't seem to find anyone talking about this yet...
> 
> Is anyone concerned that the last 3 mosfets (aka VRMs) aren't covered by the heatsink?
> 
> If you see in the pic below, the 3rd one doesn't make contact with the thermal pad either.


Rut roah. That's interesting....


----------



## jamiee

.... And I didn't get my RIVBE from NCIX









Turns out they shipped me the BD/RW that was part of my order, but not the Black









Apparently they shipped two items with different tracking numbers, but Canada Post doesn't have anything in the system for the 2nd one.
(I assumed that both items were part of the same package.... guess not.)

Oh well... back to waiting!


----------



## Redshift 91

Anyone have any experience with the 1500 evga psu, does the single rail mode really function, or is it a gimmack? I know it's over priced, but I wouldn't be here if that mattered.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> How do guys get the sexiest mobo ever created delivered to u, and not look at every mm?


I don't really care about the aesthetics. I just threw it in my case and got it working as soon as I could.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Tried searching a bit but didn't seem to find anyone talking about this yet...
> 
> Is anyone concerned that the last 3 mosfets (aka VRMs) aren't covered by the heatsink?
> 
> If you see in the pic below, the 3rd one doesn't make contact with the thermal pad either.


Yeah, Tiny Tom noticed that too and mentioned it 



. It appears it was designed to be that way on purpose, for whatever the reason. They for sure could have made the heatsink contact all of the vrms if they wanted to.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Tried searching a bit but didn't seem to find anyone talking about this yet...
> 
> Is anyone concerned that the last 3 mosfets (aka VRMs) aren't covered by the heatsink?
> 
> If you see in the pic below, the 3rd one doesn't make contact with the thermal pad either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, Tiny Tom noticed that too and mentioned it
> 
> 
> 
> . It appears it was designed to be that way on purpose, for whatever the reason. They for sure could have made the heatsink contact all of the vrms if they wanted to.
Click to expand...

Ek's waterblock will probably fix that.

The black edition page on newegg has a wierd pink banner at the top saying "not available. see similar items below". I never saw that before, it looks wierd.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Tried searching a bit but didn't seem to find anyone talking about this yet...
> 
> Is anyone concerned that the last 3 mosfets (aka VRMs) aren't covered by the heatsink?
> 
> If you see in the pic below, the 3rd one doesn't make contact with the thermal pad either.


The bigger square components are the inductors, cooling them doesn't hurt but the mosfets closer to the edge of the board are the important parts for cooling, as long as all the mosfets are heatsinked all is well.


----------



## LunaP

Aleight takin her back and exchanging heres the info in case someone gets it after me lol


----------



## xarot

Well I just noticed that not the whole VRM area is covered by heatsink in the Rampage IV Formula or Extreme either? So it's OK...


----------



## eduncan911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Tried searching a bit but didn't seem to find anyone talking about this yet...
> 
> Is anyone concerned that the last 3 mosfets (aka VRMs) aren't covered by the heatsink?
> 
> If you see in the pic below, the 3rd one doesn't make contact with the thermal pad either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bigger square components are the inductors, cooling them doesn't hurt but the mosfets closer to the edge of the board are the important parts for cooling, as long as all the mosfets are heatsinked all is well.
Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying they aren't the VRMs, but Inductors as you say.

Can someone post a pic from a review online that has removed the heatsinks? That should clear it up as well as FtW mentions there's another row of components closer to the edge.


----------



## szeged

Did newegg not get more in today yet? or did i completely miss them again? only thing holding me back from a new build is this board -_- 4930k? check 780ti? check. 900D? check. watercooling gear? check. motherboard? NOPE DIE NEWEGG DIE!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Thanks for clarifying they aren't the VRMs, but Inductors as you say.
> 
> Can someone post a pic from a review online that has removed the heatsinks? That should clear it up as well as FtW mentions there's another row of components closer to the edge.


From the '[ASUS] Rampage IV Black Edition: The Ultimate LGA2011 Motherboard Has Arrived!' thread ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I don't wanna to ruin your talk about GFX cards, and PSUs, but some chinese forum has a person who had the original box and already took some images and also dissassembled the board, and I thought these images might be useful.
> 
> [...]


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Tried searching a bit but didn't seem to find anyone talking about this yet...
> 
> Is anyone concerned that the last 3 mosfets (aka VRMs) aren't covered by the heatsink?
> 
> If you see in the pic below, the 3rd one doesn't make contact with the thermal pad either.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


this has been asked on the asus.rog.forum, it's non issue apparently. It does seem like a minor design flaw if you ask me, but all the awsome-mods @ asus forum say it's non issue


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Thanks for clarifying they aren't the VRMs, but Inductors as you say.
> 
> Can someone post a pic from a review online that has removed the heatsinks? That should clear it up as well as FtW mentions there's another row of components closer to the edge.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> From the '[ASUS] Rampage IV Black Edition: The Ultimate LGA2011 Motherboard Has Arrived!' thread ...


A VRM is made up of the mosfet, inductor & capacitor, the mosfet is the part that really needs the cooling. The mosfets are the flat black components right beside the inductors in the pic above, with the round capacitors on the other side


----------



## szeged

Did newegg get their shipment in today and i missed it? or did they all go to pre orders? wuts goin on here







i got cash to throw at newegg but they removed the eta on thier next shipment and still have none in stock


----------



## Porgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Did newegg not get more in today yet? or did i completely miss them again? only thing holding me back from a new build is this board -_- 4930k? check 780ti? check. 900D? check. watercooling gear? check. motherboard? NOPE DIE NEWEGG DIE!


No, their stock did not come in nor will they give any sort of update on when it will come in now.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Porgy*
> 
> No, their stock did not come in nor will they give any sort of update on when it will come in now.


well that sucks =\

time to play the waiting game.

good thing ive learned to sleep with my eyes open.

im so tired.


----------



## skupples

Tomorrow! Tomorrow! Tomorrow is just a daaaaay aawwwaaaaaay!


----------



## ugotd8

Anyone know what this is and what the connector is for ?


----------



## szeged

Its the "republic of gamers" logo in the middle of the board that lights up, the connector is the led.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Tomorrow! Tomorrow! Tomorrow is just a daaaaay aawwwaaaaaay!


I should be getting mine tomorrow as well according to tracking. Seems my motherboard was shipped on Thursday via second day air but I didn't get the email. Might as well wait for black friday to order the rest of my parts.

On a side note, how do you like your g2 1300? It has an attractive price for the wattage it offers, I might get one of those, the corsair are just too overpriced and the quality is near the same.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I should be getting mine tomorrow as well according to tracking. Seems my motherboard was shipped on Thursday via second day air but I didn't get the email. Might as well wait for black friday to order the rest of my parts.
> 
> On a side note, how do you like your g2 1300? It has an attractive price for the wattage it offers, I might get one of those, the corsair are just too overpriced and the quality is near the same.


i own 3 1000w g2's and 2 1300w g2s, i can tell you straight up that the 1300w g2 is a super amazing psu, hasnt let me down yet. Absolutely silent, clean efficient power delivery without any hiccups. Well worth its price(which is surprisingly cheap!) easy to sleeve also







if thats your thing.


----------



## eduncan911

Spoiler: Quotations...



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Thanks for clarifying they aren't the VRMs, but Inductors as you say.
> 
> Can someone post a pic from a review online that has removed the heatsinks? That should clear it up as well as FtW mentions there's another row of components closer to the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> From the '[ASUS] Rampage IV Black Edition: The Ultimate LGA2011 Motherboard Has Arrived!' thread ...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I don't wanna to ruin your talk about GFX cards, and PSUs, but some chinese forum has a person who had the original box and already took some images and also dissassembled the board, and I thought these images might be useful.
> 
> [...]
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Tried searching a bit but didn't seem to find anyone talking about this yet...
> 
> Is anyone concerned that the last 3 mosfets (aka VRMs) aren't covered by the heatsink?
> 
> If you see in the pic below, the 3rd one doesn't make contact with the thermal pad either.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this has been asked on the asus.rog.forum, it's non issue apparently. It does seem like a minor design flaw if you ask me, but all the awsome-mods @ asus forum say it's non issue
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Thanks for clarifying they aren't the VRMs, but Inductors as you say.
> 
> Can someone post a pic from a review online that has removed the heatsinks? That should clear it up as well as FtW mentions there's another row of components closer to the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> From the '[ASUS] Rampage IV Black Edition: The Ultimate LGA2011 Motherboard Has Arrived!' thread ...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A VRM is made up of the mosfet, inductor & capacitor, the mosfet is the part that really needs the cooling. The mosfets are the flat black components right beside the inductors in the pic above, with the round capacitors on the other side
Click to expand...





An yes, the "flat" transistor-looking things (mosfet) are the suckers that get hot, and are in-deed fully covered by our heatsink. As FtW mentioned, the large tall square ones are the inductors.

I remember this on my ASRock X79 Fatal1ty Professional board.

My image when I replaced the cheap thermal pad with a much better one (sorry, I didn't take a pic of the naked VRMs):



And some marketing image I found:



That board had such great potential... 16 VRMs! Too bad it only overclocked the first 2 cores - loading up all 6 cores of the 3930k and 4930k dropped the CPU down to stock 3.2 Ghz speeds.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Tomorrow! Tomorrow! Tomorrow is just a daaaaay aawwwaaaaaay!


Tomorrow never arrives. No matter what it's always a day away.


----------



## eduncan911

Update to my build... I've been sitting on my board for about 6 days and just now getting to the waterchiller build part and TECs within the self-contained unit (you can see the housing I am using on top of the chassis in the pic below). The chassis also doesn't like E-ATX boards too well. I had to cut away to get the ASUS Rampage IV Extreme to fit. This board is no exception (the SATA ports are in the same location, dammit).

Believe it or not, this is actually my 3rd most expensive "personal machine" build in my 25 years of building servers and PCs (think quad Xeon builds in the past).

This one is by far the most fun with the built-in ESA Master Control Board that controls all fans, temp, waterchiller's TECs, PWM pump and custom 16-color lighting - with its firmware. I've been slowly reverse engineering the MCB's firmware and ESA controls over the last few years (even have a Wiki built on it). This build will finally force me to complete the reverse engineering, since Windows 8.1 is killing the 6-year old ESA tools installed from Nvidia. Time to get back to work on this stuff.



Not pictured: EVGA 1300W G2, Swiftech MCP35X PWM pump, top res, braided water lines (this is going to look soo-cool with the brushed aluminum chassis), 2nd hidden heat exchanger and other misc watercooling parts. Also, all of the wiring adapters I have to cut and solder up for the MCB and 1300W G2, front-panel I/O, USB 3.0 headers and circuit board, etc.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Update to my build... I've been sitting on my board for about 6 days and just now getting to the waterchiller build part and TECs within the self-contained unit (you can see the housing I am using on top of the chassis in the pic below). The chassis also doesn't like E-ATX boards too well. I had to cut away to get the ASUS Rampage IV Extreme to fit. This board is no exception (the SATA ports are in the same location, dammit).
> 
> Believe it or not, this is actually my 3rd most expensive "personal machine" build in my 25 years of building servers and PCs (think quad Xeon builds in the past).
> 
> This one is by far the most fun with the built-in ESA Master Control Board that controls all fans, temp, waterchiller's TECs, PWM pump and all - with its firmware. I've been slowly reverse engineering the MCB's firmware and ESA controls over the last few years (even have a Wiki built on it). This build will finally force me to complete the reverse engineering, since Windows 8.1 is killing the 6-year old ESA tools installed from Nvidia. Time to get back to work on this stuff.


What temp will you be setting the chiller to?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I should be getting mine tomorrow as well according to tracking. Seems my motherboard was shipped on Thursday via second day air but I didn't get the email. Might as well wait for black friday to order the rest of my parts.
> 
> On a side note, how do you like your g2 1300? It has an attractive price for the wattage it offers, I might get one of those, the corsair are just too overpriced and the quality is near the same.


The G2 1300W is definitely a quality unit, even though mine now qualifies for part of a recall. It's had no issues, but will be sending it back so that I can refresh my warranty & get a brand new unit. My only issue with it is that the rubberized finish comes off easily.

you should be able to find it for under 200$ as well. If it's not under 200$ this week, it will be next week, type of thing. I payed 189$ for mine.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Anyone know what this is and what the connector is for ?


It's in the middle of board with the logo. The connector is for a diode so it can be flashing when you load BIOS and other stuff.


----------



## skupples

*EVGA Has issued a recall on batches of G2 1300w P2 100w*

http://www.evga.com/articles/00803/


----------



## eduncan911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Update to my build... I've been sitting on my board for about 6 days and just now getting to the waterchiller build part and TECs within the self-contained unit (you can see the housing I am using on top of the chassis in the pic below). The chassis also doesn't like E-ATX boards too well. I had to cut away to get the ASUS Rampage IV Extreme to fit. This board is no exception (the SATA ports are in the same location, dammit).
> 
> Believe it or not, this is actually my 3rd most expensive "personal machine" build in my 25 years of building servers and PCs (think quad Xeon builds in the past).
> 
> This one is by far the most fun with the built-in ESA Master Control Board that controls all fans, temp, waterchiller's TECs, PWM pump and all - with its firmware. I've been slowly reverse engineering the MCB's firmware and ESA controls over the last few years (even have a Wiki built on it). This build will finally force me to complete the reverse engineering, since Windows 8.1 is killing the 6-year old ESA tools installed from Nvidia. Time to get back to work on this stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What temp will you be setting the chiller to?
Click to expand...

Interesting you ask that... Actually, none. You can read more about the H2C here on my wiki: http://730x.org/h2c

In short, the pelters are only activated at high CPU temps. I have them set at 50C to activate at 0.5V, and ramps up to 12V at 70C. The 4x 35W 16V pelters are divided into two circuits with two pelters in series, that cuts the voltage in half to 6V and a very efficient ~24W removal - at full load, though they never run at full load (see below). The entire TEC waterchiller only removes about ~90W in my tests. The 120x38mm heat exchanger can remove about 280 to 320 watts with a high static pressure fan. Therefore, the combination can remove about ~400W of heat from the CPU at max load, while idling dead silent. Though it never gets that high with a 4.7 Ghz 4930k. My 3930k at 4.8 Ghz did run hotter than the Ivy Bridge-E.

To recap about TECs: they are very inefficient at full voltage. Your target voltage should always be between 20 and 40% of their rated max. Any more than that and you run deep into the diminishing returns - on a huge curve (the higher volts you go, the less and less watts is removed).

The MCB also turns down the voltage to the TECs if the watertemp gets close to ambient - so that no moisture starts to form anywhere to damage the system.









Finally, the entire system is easily removable, intact. This is so I can service the CPU, motherboard, etc without breaking the loop.

Those benefits (easily removable/serviceable, idles silently, automagically ramp up/down only when needed) outweigh the trade-offs to me (not being dead silent at full load and not idling sub-ambient).

I have an 4930k at 4.7 Ghz that idles at 28C with the H80 waterblock/pump combo unit with a H80 120x38 heat exchanger and 5500 RPM high-static fan at 800rpms, so I'm not even close to needing the TECs at idle that are in the loop. Though that was for a client build using the RIVE. The trick is to keep all of the Intel power saving features enabled, but with enough vcore so it is stable when it ramps up from 1.2 Ghz to 4.7 Ghz. Lots of load line calibration and tweaking required for that (and every 4930k chip is different, I've ran through 3 so far and each one required slightly different LLCs). Under full IntelBurnTest load, with 1.28V vcore, the TECs are only activated to about 40% (about 2.3V to each pelter), fan at 2,100 rpms (noticeable, but not too much), which cools the entire system at about 65C. There is more room there, but it's very stable like this.

My RIV:BE build will be using an old Apogee XT Rev2 and Swiftech MCP-35X PWM pump that I have lying around for a few years, along with an 120x38 3/8" heat exchanger sourced from an H80i I tore apart (didn't even turn it on - opened box, cut the hoses, got me a new waterblock/pump combo and radiator to work with). I'm pretty sure the Apogee XT Rev2 is far more efficient than the H80/H80i waterblock, as well as the head pressure I get from the MCP-35X at idle is far greater than the minuscule "dripping?" head pressure from the H80 unit. The H80i seems to have a bit more than the H80, but not much.

To recap: the 120x38mm heat exchanger is by far enough to cool the 4930k @ 4.7 Ghz at idle with a very high static pressure fan, at idle speeds (800rpm) so you don't hear it. It's only when pushing the system under load that the 120x38 cannot handle it alone, and that's when the TECs and higher RPMs on the high-static fan come into play. They start ramping up at 50C.

The MCB controls the speeds of the Fans, Pump and TEC voltage (since the same 5500 fan does double duty of radiator and TEC heatsink fan cooling). This is all based on the temp range I set it to.

"Set it too" is the inherit problem I am having with the Asus RIVE, and now the RIV:BE though. All motherboards (except the EVGA X79 Dark) allows me to set a temp range of the PWM Duty Cycle based on the CPU temps (which is the single input I am using to the MCB). The problem with the RIVE is that it has a forced minimal of 20% duty cycle. Well, per the RIV:BE's manual, that's even worse as it has it forced at a 40% duty cycle minimal. That's really annoying since my MCB is setup to take a 0% input.

I have to revert to using SpeedFan instead of the RIVE's BIOS for that stuff, only on the Asus RIVE and RIV:BE though. The Asus RIVF was fine since it let me set 0%, and the Asrock board I had while letting me set 0%, had a seriously long delay in ramping up. I hope SpeedFan can pick up on the RIV:BE's fan controllers as well, or I may be SOL.

Why does Asus have to set a minimal duty cycle anyways? Really irks me.


----------



## skupples

Sigh, don't even get me started on the minimum duty cycles of certain Asus motherboards. That stuff REALLY annoys me.

Thank you for the extremely in depth write up! +1


----------



## eduncan911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sigh, don't even get me started on the minimum duty cycles of certain Asus motherboards. That stuff REALLY annoys me.
> 
> Thank you for the extremely in depth write up! +1


I opened a support ticket, complaining that it was a bug of setting it so high for "idle" speeds that it overheats my cooling system running 24/7 at "idle" with a minimal of 40%. I know that won't mean anything to them; but, if enough of us open support tickets, maybe, just maybe, we will get their attention:

https://vip.asus.com/VIP2/Services/QuestionForm?lang=en-us#


----------



## szeged

Still waiting on newegg to get stock


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> I opened a support ticket, complaining that it was a bug of setting it so high for "idle" speeds that it overheats my cooling system running 24/7 at "idle" with a minimal of 40%. I know that won't mean anything to them; but, if enough of us open support tickets, maybe, just maybe, we will get their attention:
> 
> https://vip.asus.com/VIP2/Services/QuestionForm?lang=en-us#


We need a uefi bios hacker!!!!!!


----------



## eduncan911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> I opened a support ticket, complaining that it was a bug of setting it so high for "idle" speeds that it overheats my cooling system running 24/7 at "idle" with a minimal of 40%. I know that won't mean anything to them; but, if enough of us open support tickets, maybe, just maybe, we will get their attention:
> 
> https://vip.asus.com/VIP2/Services/QuestionForm?lang=en-us#
> 
> 
> 
> We need a uefi bios hacker!!!!!!
Click to expand...

It would seem this is indeed possible...

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?19772-Rampage-IV-Extreme-MODDED-2003-BIOS-Download-it-here!

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33141-New-bios-4102!

I'll contact them to see if they can do this.


----------



## skupples

That would be great... I would love to run my Dynatron R13 cpu back plate mod @ non deafening levels.


----------



## saer

^How much is that mod supposed to cool, anyways ? Not yet seen it on a 2011 backplate.

Tuesday is almost here, this nightmare with NCIX is almost over


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> ^How much is that mod supposed to cool, anyways ? Not yet seen it on a 2011 backplate.
> 
> Tuesday is almost here, this nightmare with NCIX is almost over


It's only going to report 2-3 degrees from the CPU, it's main purpose is to actually cool the CPU back plate... Ever touched it? Those things get hot as balls. It's mostly an experiment, though most people who have actually done before & after's reported gains in overclocks & reduction in temps.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's only going to report 2-3 degrees from the CPU, it's main purpose is to actually cool the CPU back plate... Ever touched it? Those things get hot as balls. It's mostly an experiment, though most people who have actually done before & after's reported gains in overclocks & reduction in temps.


yeah anything that helps cool is going to help temps this is for sure. dont know about better overclocks but it is sure possible and for what it takes to do this why not do it.

but i have one question why not change the fan.. i dont remember exactly which one you are going to use but i think some of them use normal fans... or even put a low profile water block that has the ports on the side?? then noise no problems. just run 1/4" tube to it...


----------



## skupples

Dynatron R13, it's true purpose is a rack cooler. PWM.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1670384/width/350/height/700[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> Dynatron R13, it's true purpose is a rack cooler. PWM.


hey I think what you are doing is a great idea the more I think about it. and wish I had room to do that. have you thought of this maybe

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_493&products_id=28753

might have to mod it a little bit but it would be quieter and could keep cooler with water...


----------



## szeged

just put one of these fans on it




silent operation, nice air flow.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> just put one of these fans on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> silent operation, nice air flow.


I use to have fans like that on an AIO back in the day.







It served a dual purpose. I use to run late night hard core mmo raids, so it drowned out the sound of my voice. Girl friends are not so keen about those types of things. Well, haven't found one yet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> hey I think what you are doing is a great idea the more I think about it. and wish I had room to do that. have you thought of this maybe
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_493&products_id=28753
> 
> might have to mod it a little bit but it would be quieter and could keep cooler with water...


You know, putting a waterblock on it dawned on me today. The only issue is space, & the cooling coverage. The dynatron is built to perfectly fit the 1366 back plate.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I use to have fans like that on an AIO back in the day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know, putting a waterblock on it dawned on me today. The only issue is space, & the cooling coverage. The dynatron is built to perfectly fit the 1366 back plate.


so is this waterblock.. I am going to stop before you think i am trying to tell you how to do it. but like I said the more I think of it the better the idea seems to me!!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Is there a build log or example you can point to where someone shows exactly how they did the Dynatron r13 backplate mod?
I'm not picturing how it affixes to the backplate.


----------



## szeged

only downside would be trying to fit cables and tubing in the back part of the 900D, its a nice case on the front, but if you arent using a caselabs, good luck









also - is it weird ive spent the past 2 hours looking for sharks attacking people on google maps?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> so is this waterblock.. I am going to stop before you think i am trying to tell you how to do it. but like I said the more I think of it the better the idea seems to me!!!


It's all good! The more I think about it, the more I like the idea. It's just that iv'e already sank the money into the Dynatron & what I mean by specifically designed to fit, is that the heatsink is literally the size of the entire lga1366 back plate.

(i'm passed the return on these items due to waiting so long for this board)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> only downside would be trying to fit cables and tubing in the back part of the 900D, its a nice case on the front, but if you arent using a caselabs, good luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also - is it weird ive spent the past 2 hours looking for sharks attacking people on google maps?


sorry but yes that is pretty weird and you are very bored I guess!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's all good! The more I think about it, the more I like the idea. It's just that iv'e already sank the money into the Dynatron & what I mean by specifically designed to fit, is that the heatsink is literally the size of the entire lga1366 back plate.
> 
> (i'm passed the return on these items due to waiting so long for this board)


I know what you mean about buying part then passing date to return them I have been buying parts since Feb and still not finished...


----------



## szeged

the depths of my boredom are unfathomable.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Is there a build log or example you can point to where someone shows exactly how they did the Dynatron r13 backplate mod?
> I'm not picturing how it affixes to the backplate.


That was the hardest part for me to understand as well. Still haven't actually figured it out due to language barrier. Should have a much better idea tomorrow after work.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1417888/buildlog-project-industrial-silence-900d-ivy-bridge-e-backplatemod-mehlstaub-the-cat/100_50#post_21262962


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am thinking to get the 4960X I need someone to talk me out of it or it shall be done today lol..... Keep in mind money is not really an issue and that PCI 3.0 is faster than 2.0. That is the real motivator here
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> get the 4960x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> To hell with it I ordered it
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> If money is not an issue then get the 4960x for sure.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I went ahead and got the 4960X I am going to have to get your Bios settings for 4.6GHZ
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> lol damn you people, I brought my 4960X w/ me to work today so I could exchange it back @ Fry's for a 4930k, seeing as there's no difference now it seems between the 4930 and the 4960 batches, at least that anyone can find anymore. I'm guessing since the 2nd gen CPU's the X is just a way of getting extra $$ to Intel, seeing as from the batches I posted up that they're both achieving nearly the same clocks |:
> 
> And since both have access to the X multiplier in the bios, it really is just bragging rights it seems, heck I can't even back up my own purchase with it anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried..lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but 450$ is definitely a nice savings I can use towards another Titan or WC parts.
Click to expand...

I already have 3 Titans, and all the WC parts I need so I just said the hell with it. I am not going to die with money and where I work that is a real factor i live with daily.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the depths of my boredom are unfathomable.


I can believe that you need some new hardware to play with!!!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I can believe that you need some new hardware to play with!!!!


im now going around on google earth walking my way from tallahassee to the closest micro center







before that i was looking for sharks over the ocean lol.

just found my house i lived in when i was in atlanta for a year, google maps is outdated for sure since i can see my truck in the parking lot lol.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That was the hardest part for me to understand as well. Still haven't actually figured it out due to language barrier. Should have a much better idea tomorrow after work.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1417888/buildlog-project-industrial-silence-900d-ivy-bridge-e-backplatemod-mehlstaub-the-cat/100_50#post_21262962


Hmm, well, looking at my block for the 2011 socket uses what I think are M4 threaded rods 50mm long. I suppose I might be able to find longer ones that I could thread through the backplate enough to be able to attach a cooler on the back like that with nuts on the ends of the same screws, but looking at my RIVBE backplate it isn't flat, so I'm not really seeing how the heatsink would mate up to it and be effective. ?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im now going around on google earth walking my way from tallahassee to the closest micro center
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> before that i was looking for sharks over the ocean lol.
> 
> just found my house i lived in when i was in atlanta for a year, google maps is outdated for sure since i can see my truck in the parking lot lol.


you need a few drinks!!!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> you need a few drinks!!!!


i need something, im going out of my mind here, ive seen everything there is to see on netflix, i cant open up any games without instantly getting bored, nothing on TV or on demand, watched everything on my dvr, my hardware, while amazing and fun, is an entire 2 months old, way too long for me







i must upgrade something and tinker with it! wtb rive BE.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I already have 3 Titans, and all the WC parts I need so I just said the hell with it. I am not going to die with money and where I work that is a real factor i live with daily.


Well ended up they had no 4930k's and I felt iffy anyways, so it's back to me an my X


----------



## _REAPER_

We should have a place on the first page for Bios settings..


----------



## jamiee

Well I suppose good things do happen when you're not looking (...or in my case sleeping).
Look's like Canada Post finally decided to update it's system YaY!



Odd that it wasn't picked up on Friday when NCIX said it was ready, but what can you do eh?
The important thing is Baby Black will be in my arms today









Now, I really need that EVGA GTX 780 Ti Classified to be released...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmm, well, looking at my block for the 2011 socket uses what I think are M4 threaded rods 50mm long. I suppose I might be able to find longer ones that I could thread through the backplate enough to be able to attach a cooler on the back like that with nuts on the ends of the same screws, but looking at my RIVBE backplate it isn't flat, so I'm not really seeing how the heatsink would mate up to it and be effective. ?


That's where the LGA1366 back plate comes into play.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's where the LGA1366 back plate comes into play.












Are you going to leave the 2011 backplate in place but somehow sandwich the 1366 one in between it and the Dynatron r13's heatsink? If so, what holds it in place? Thermal pads? Thermal adhesive?

Or am I way off?

I'm thinking I might want to try this if I can figure it out. Unless I just somehow missed it (entirely possible) that build log from mehlstaub that you linked didn't really go into any detail how he affixed the heatsink to the backplate did it?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to leave the 2011 backplate in place but somehow sandwich the 1366 one in between it and the Dynatron r13's heatsink? If so, what holds it in place? Thermal pads? Thermal adhesive?
> 
> Or am I way off?
> 
> I'm thinking I might want to try this if I can figure it out. Unless I just somehow missed it (entirely possible) that build log from mehlstaub that you linked didn't really go into any detail how he affixed the heatsink to the backplate did it?


No not really, & I tried to get him to explain it, but the language barrier made it mostly impossible. You remove the 2011 back plate, & install the 1366 back plate. It affixes to the back plate. I'll put a proper guide up once I figure the whole thing out.

http://stanislavs.org/lga-2011-cpu-socket-backplate-cooling-modification/

here's another one,but I think he used thermal glue.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to leave the 2011 backplate in place but somehow sandwich the 1366 one in between it and the Dynatron r13's heatsink? If so, what holds it in place? Thermal pads? Thermal adhesive?
> 
> Or am I way off?
> 
> I'm thinking I might want to try this if I can figure it out. Unless I just somehow missed it (entirely possible) that build log from mehlstaub that you linked didn't really go into any detail how he affixed the heatsink to the backplate did it?


I remember now... The dynatron plugs into these holes.



which are exposed by installing the 2011 back plate. water block still mounts into the top of the 1366 bracket.


----------



## eduncan911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That would be great... I would love to run my Dynatron R13 cpu back plate mod @ non deafening levels.


For the Asus RIVE, I used SpeedFan with a custom fan profile to override the 20% duty cycle.

I surely hope SpeedFan picks up the Fan Controller of the RIV:BE.

Maybe you can try that (it even found the other chassis controllers).

I won't be ready for my build/power on for a few weeks to know.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> For the Asus RIVE, I used SpeedFan with a custom fan profile to override the 20% duty cycle.
> 
> I surely hope SpeedFan picks up the Fan Controller of the RIV:BE.
> 
> Maybe you can try that (it even found the other chassis controllers).
> 
> I won't be ready for my build/power on for a few weeks to know.


It will override the minimum? That's awesome. I haven't used speedfan in a long time.


----------



## Valice

quick question for Obsidian 900D owners:

Is the OC Panel Cable long enough to fit it into a 5.25" bay? If so, does it just barely fit with the cable going straight through the case or can you hide it semi-decently?
I'm asking because 'that crazy reviewer' mentioned it's way too short for practical bay usage.

thanks!

PS: I'll be joining the club very soon


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valice*
> 
> quick question for Obsidian 900D owners:
> 
> Is the OC Panel Cable long enough to fit it into a 5.25" bay? If so, does it just barely fit with the cable going straight through the case or can you hide it semi-decently?
> I'm asking because 'that crazy reviewer' mentioned it's way too short for practical bay usage.
> 
> thanks!
> 
> PS: I'll be joining the club very soon


I'll let you know this afternoon when my unit shows up...

Looks like my post to @_REAPER_ was deleted...

A10 BRRRRR BRRRRRRR BRRRRRRRR


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'll let you know this afternoon when my unit shows up...
> 
> Looks like my post to _REAPER_ was deleted...
> 
> A10 BRRRRR BRRRRRRR BRRRRRRRR


I believe your 'BRRRR' comment is still there in the 'Motherboard Has Arrived!' thread. lol. It's easy to get the two topics confused. I've only done it 50 times by now myself.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'll let you know this afternoon when my unit shows up...
> 
> Looks like my post to @_REAPER_ was deleted...
> 
> A10 BRRRRR BRRRRRRR BRRRRRRRR


Man, we really need more people on this thread to have their boards and share their experiences. I don't know what I'm doing with X79


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I believe your 'BRRRR' comment is still there in the 'Motherboard Has Arrived!' thread. lol. It's easy to get the two topics confused. I've only done it 50 times by now myself.


The powers that be should merge the two threads imo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Man, we really need more people on this thread to have their boards and share their experiences. I don't know what I'm doing with X79


See, you take the cpu, put it on the socket, & push the clamp down until it feels like it's going to go POP. Some one said the OC panel cord was like 27 inches? Could be a wrong estimate.

I'll try to be more helpful once I have my unit in, though i'll be spending allot of time building the next few weeks.

*& of course, I woke up with a headache today. I'm going to seriously QQQQQQ if it doesn't go away, and or gets worse while i'm @ work*

(yes I drink a ton of water, close to a gallon a day)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> We should have a place on the first page for Bios settings..


We do it just hasn't been populated w/ information yet, waiting on more test results








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Well I suppose good things do happen when you're not looking (...or in my case sleeping).
> Look's like Canada Post finally decided to update it's system YaY!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Odd that it wasn't picked up on Friday when NCIX said it was ready, but what can you do eh?
> The important thing is Baby Black will be in my arms today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I really need that EVGA GTX 780 Ti Classified to be released...


Either way grats, at least the worst is over! I see the one I ordered comes in today, just need to verify they didn't bash in the pins out of rage and then take pics to send to my friend so he can pay me for it.
Then it's off to buy my CL case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Man, we really need more people on this thread to have their boards and share their experiences. I don't know what I'm doing with X79


Slowly, as people are still either building or waiting on parts due to the delay of the board lol. I'm starting my build log later this week.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The powers that be should merge the two threads imo.
> See, you take the cpu, put it on the socket, & push the clamp down until it feels like it's going to go POP. Some one said the OC panel cord was like 27 inches? Could be a wrong estimate.
> 
> I'll try to be more helpful once I have my unit in, though i'll be spending allot of time building the next few weeks.
> 
> *& of course, I woke up with a headache today. I'm going to seriously QQQQQQ if it doesn't go away, and or gets worse while i'm @ work*
> 
> (yes I drink a ton of water, close to a gallon a day)


Oh yeah forgot to ask your build log is in your sig right? I'll add it to the OP.

Everyone else don't forget to post links to your build logs or put em in your sig so I can update the main page. Let's show off the sexiness / bling


----------



## Cool Mike

I am receiving my Asus 280x Matrix Platinum today (Hard to find). Thought this would be an excellent match with the RIVBE. I have never used VGA Hotwire so this should be interesting. I love to tinker around with hardware like most of us I guess.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Looks like my post to @_REAPER_ was deleted...


http://www.overclock.net/t/1425853/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-the-ultimate-lga2011-motherboard-has-arrived/3410#post_21265546


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> *EVGA Has issued a recall on batches of G2 1300w P2 100w*
> 
> http://www.evga.com/articles/00803/


+1 for the heads-up ,Thanks


----------



## jamiee

*YahooOOooOoo!!!! It's here*









BIG and beautiful...

Will take some pic's tonight when I get home, but needless to say everybody in the office that know's anything about computers was


----------



## eduncan911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> For the Asus RIVE, I used SpeedFan with a custom fan profile to override the 20% duty cycle.
> 
> I surely hope SpeedFan picks up the Fan Controller of the RIV:BE.
> 
> Maybe you can try that (it even found the other chassis controllers).
> 
> I won't be ready for my build/power on for a few weeks to know.
> 
> 
> 
> It will override the minimum? That's awesome. I haven't used speedfan in a long time.
Click to expand...

Yeppers. Well, at least on the Asus RIVE it did.

Just got to remember to set the fans to MANUAL control in the advanced settings first, before setting up a custom Fan Controller.


----------



## eduncan911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valice*
> 
> quick question for Obsidian 900D owners:
> 
> Is the OC Panel Cable long enough to fit it into a 5.25" bay? If so, does it just barely fit with the cable going straight through the case or can you hide it semi-decently?
> I'm asking because 'that crazy reviewer' mentioned it's way too short for practical bay usage.
> 
> thanks!
> 
> PS: I'll be joining the club very soon


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Valice*
> 
> quick question for Obsidian 900D owners:
> 
> Is the OC Panel Cable long enough to fit it into a 5.25" bay? If so, does it just barely fit with the cable going straight through the case or can you hide it semi-decently?
> I'm asking because 'that crazy reviewer' mentioned it's way too short for practical bay usage.
> 
> thanks!
> 
> PS: I'll be joining the club very soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll let you know this afternoon when my unit shows up...
> 
> Looks like my post to @_REAPER_ was deleted...
> 
> A10 BRRRRR BRRRRRRR BRRRRRRRR
Click to expand...

The cable is long enough to reach a full tower's top 5.25" bay, yep.....

...and....

....wait for it...

...wait for it...

...that's it.







If you had plans to use it like the 6' long EVBot cable from your chassis on the floor to your desk's top, forget about it. It's waay too short.

I am debating cutting and splicing in an additional 6' of wires. Really irks me.


----------



## Porgy

Well Newegg apparently has stock in of some kind right now because they just charged me and shipped mine. Still sayin out of stock on the product page but I expect that to change shortly here. Ready your credit cards.


----------



## Bimmer555

I preordered my board from newegg, shipped 19th and arrived next day on the 20th.

I'm running the following specs.
SilverStone RV01 Case
RIVBE
Intel 4820K Ivy-E @ 4.5ghz - 1.42vcore - 44C idle, 62C under load
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16gb 1866mhz
Corsair H75 Water cooling
SLI - MSI 770GTX 2GB TwinFrozr's (these were on sale, not a fan of MSI)
Corsair AX1200 Gold 1200watt psu
OCZ Vector 150's RAID0 (240gb ea) for OS
Samsung 830 240gb for games
Samsung F3 1Tb's RAID0 storage
WD640gb blacks RAID0 storage
Vanatoo Transparent One HIFI Speakers + Definitive SuperCube 2000 subwoofer
Dell 27" U2711

I would like to know if anyone else has similar specs and what they are doing for their specific overclock settings. I'm still playing around and trying to get better results.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valice*
> 
> quick question for Obsidian 900D owners:
> 
> Is the OC Panel Cable long enough to fit it into a 5.25" bay? If so, does it just barely fit with the cable going straight through the case or can you hide it semi-decently?
> I'm asking because 'that crazy reviewer' mentioned it's way too short for practical bay usage.
> 
> thanks!
> 
> PS: I'll be joining the club very soon


it is probably too short for 900D.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bimmer555*
> 
> I would like to know if anyone else has similar specs and what they are doing for their specific overclock settings. I'm still playing around and trying to get better results.


try enabling PLL Termination Votlage option, and adjust CPU PLL to 1.45V. Set VTT and VCCSA manually to 1.05V, increase as needed. 1.4V seems a bit high, but some CPUs are just dogs.


----------



## Bimmer555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> it is probably too short for 900D.
> try enabling PLL Termination Votlage option, and adjust CPU PLL to 1.45V. Set VTT and VCCSA manually to 1.05V, increase as needed. 1.4V seems a bit high, but some CPUs are just dogs.


I'm currently @
VTT CPU 1.05
CPU VCCSA .95
CPU PLL 1.8

I thought 1.4 seemed a bit high too, and I had stability issues right off the bat. :/
I had so many failed overclocks, and hoping to talk to others who have a similar build and see what they are getting with this board + same cpu 4820K Ivy-E


----------



## Valice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> The cable is long enough to reach a full tower's top 5.25" bay, yep.....
> 
> ...and....
> 
> ....wait for it...
> 
> ...wait for it...
> 
> ...that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you had plans to use it like the 6' long EVBot cable from your chassis on the floor to your desk's top, forget about it. It's waay too short.
> 
> I am debating cutting and splicing in an additional 6' of wires. Really irks me.


well, great!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> it is probably too short for 900D.
> [...]


well, damn it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'll let you know this afternoon when my unit shows up...
> 
> [...]


great, can't be soon enough then... would really like to know for sure! Depending on whether or not it fits, I'll order something else for that 5.25" bay and since I'd like to order right about... let's say... NOW - I'm eagerly awaiting your response


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Yeppers. Well, at least on the Asus RIVE it did.
> 
> Just got to remember to set the fans to MANUAL control in the advanced settings first, before setting up a custom Fan Controller.


Totally forgot that I have an A6XT so mobo pwm is non issue.


----------



## cadaveca

well, up that vccsa, lower that PLL, enable the option I mentioned, and reboot.

still stable?

try 0.025V less on CPU.

You aren't pushing high ram clocks, but as CPU speed increases, so does NB/L3 speed,(it's tied to CPU speed, haswell separates these), so the load from NB/L3 is greater when CPU speed is increased. NB/L3 interfaces with PCIe and memory controller, so these two are getting more action as well...so they need adjustment too, although they may be running "stock".

I don't have 4930K, but have a few 4960X, which is the same basic chip.

I always like to start with 1.25V CPU voltage, everything else as I mentioned, and then set 2666 MHz ram @ 125 MHz bus, with 32x multi (for 4000 MHz). I just increase multipliers one by one, and run wPrime to see some temps and some basic stability. If it passes, I increase multi again. So here's what I got with the first chip:



I am not using TurboV Core to adjust anything..all voltages are set manually in BIOS.


----------



## Dayjavu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Porgy*
> 
> Newegg didn't get their stock in as expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another week goes by without a gaming comp


Mine was just shipped from Newegg about an hour ago.
Can I be add to the owners club please?


----------



## saer

Mine is "On Vehicle for Delivery Today"























Thank god, this NCIX-US fiasco is finally coming to an end


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Porgy*
> 
> Well Newegg apparently has stock in of some kind right now because they just charged me and shipped mine. Still sayin out of stock on the product page but I expect that to change shortly here. Ready your credit cards.


I just called Newegg. They did get stock yesterday and some orders were filled. But they didn't get enough to cover all orders. So I'm still SOL on this board as I didn't get my order filled. No eta on any more shipment to Newegg.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> The cable is long enough to reach a full tower's top 5.25" bay, yep.....
> 
> ...and....
> 
> ....wait for it...
> 
> ...wait for it...
> 
> ...that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you had plans to use it like the 6' long EVBot cable from your chassis on the floor to your desk's top, forget about it. It's waay too short.
> 
> I am debating cutting and splicing in an additional 6' of wires. Really irks me.


I just left the stupid thing in the box, and overclocked the old fashioned way. The cable is still bagged. It looks too short to do much of anything. Haven't touched the AI Suite software either.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I always like to start with 1.25V CPU voltage, everything else as I mentioned, and then set 2666 MHz ram @ 125 MHz bus, with 32x multi (for 4000 MHz). I just increase multipliers one by one, and run wPrime to see some temps and some basic stability. If it passes, I increase multi again.


I'm totally green to overclocking on X79. What's the benefit of starting at 125Mhz bus instead of 100Mhz? I wasn't quite sure what I was doing at first so I simply overclocked using the multiplier and adjusting voltages. Is there anything else you need to be aware of when increasing the bus?


----------



## cadaveca

There isn't any real advantage other than me being able to run my memory @ maximum. I have a few 2666 MHz kits, and crossing that 70000 MB/s line makes me smile.









Max bootable memory multi is 2400 MHz, but 2666 MHz @ 125 bus = 2133 divider. With SB-E, 2333 MHz was 1866 divider, and far easier, and better performing, than booting with 2400 MHz.


----------



## Shaolin7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> I'm totally green to overclocking on X79. What's the benefit of starting at 125Mhz bus instead of 100Mhz? I wasn't quite sure what I was doing at first so I simply overclocked using the multiplier and adjusting voltages. Is there anything else you need to be aware of when increasing the bus?


Please don't take this as a smartass comment, it's not meant to be at all. But I would highly recommend following the official ROG forum thread sticky on overclocking how-to with the X79 chipset:

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=

It's laid out rather succinctly and lucidly, and I know I'll be following it myself as well.


----------



## cadaveca

LoL.

last part of the first post there:
Quote:


> 7) Memory speeds over DDR3-2400 may be more stable when using the 125 MHz BCLK strap.


No, you don't say?


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valice*
> 
> quick question for Obsidian 900D owners:
> 
> Is the OC Panel Cable long enough to fit it into a 5.25" bay? If so, does it just barely fit with the cable going straight through the case or can you hide it semi-decently?
> I'm asking because 'that crazy reviewer' mentioned it's way too short for practical bay usage.
> 
> thanks!
> 
> PS: I'll be joining the club very soon


It fits and it is long enough to route the cable in back, down and then through to plug in on the bottom of the board with a few inches to spare.


----------



## Valice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> It fits and it is long enough to route the cable in back, down and then through to plug in on the bottom of the board with a few inches to spare.


awesome! thanks for heads-up!
> Off to order my early x-mas presents then!


----------



## skupples

OK, i'm home & it's here. I'm honestly scared to open the box. I have a feeling of impending doom. Bent pins, & the like.


----------



## skupples

Is it normal for these things to have no packaging seals? You know, the seals that show you know one has ALREADY OPENED IT or anything?


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Please don't take this as a smartass comment, it's not meant to be at all. But I would highly recommend following the official ROG forum thread sticky on overclocking how-to with the X79 chipset:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=
> 
> It's laid out rather succinctly and lucidly, and I know I'll be following it myself as well.


Well I did, and that's how I got to my current overclock. It's really quite basic.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Is it normal for these things to have no packaging seals? You know, the seals that show you know one has ALREADY OPENED IT or anything?


Man Skupples, you're so bloody uptight! Just dig in and set the thing up already!

There were no seals.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Man Skupples, you're so bloody uptight! Just dig in and set the thing up already!
> 
> There were no seals.












Just curious... Checked my MVF, it had packaging seals. Owellz! Setting it up will be a multiple week process. I'm trying to figure out where to start. Guess I should make sure it works first. Time to bust out the h80


----------



## kpoeticg

My mobo box wasn't sealed either. No stickers or anything


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah, now that you mention it, there were no seals or plastic wrap or anything on my RIVBE box either. I didn't even think about it, just opened it right up and started going through everything.


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> OK, i'm home & it's here. I'm honestly scared to open the box. I have a feeling of impending doom. Bent pins, & the like.


Ummm -- holy crap don't tell me NCIX just throws the box into another box with no padding material???! That just seems ******ed.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, now that you mention it, there were no seals or plastic wrap or anything on my RIVBE box either. I didn't even think about it, just opened it right up and started going through everything.


Yeah same here. Didn't really think about it at all til skup just mentioned it. I'm pretty sure skupples was the first one to even stop a second to think about it


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Ummm -- holy crap don't tell me NCIX just throws the box into another box with no padding material???! That just seems ******ed.


Holy crap that would suck >_>


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Man Skupples, you're so bloody uptight! Just dig in and set the thing up already!
> 
> There were no seals.


Is he talking about Clubbing Seals?





I never knew he's that evil.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Ummm -- holy crap don't tell me NCIX just throws the box into another box with no padding material???! That just seems ******ed.


no no no! Their was an NCIX calendar doing all the padding! I'm sure it was an honest mistake, just like everything else. I'm sure Chris will tell us that soon.









I only dream about clubbing baby seals.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> no no no! Their was an NCIX calendar doing all the padding! I'm sure it was an honest mistake, just like everything else. I'm sure Chris will tell us that soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only dream about clubbing baby seals.


Nah he'll claim you removed the stuffing and then took a pic to make it look like NCIX did a bad job







Don't forget who we're dealing w/









Club Seal of approval (I should draw this)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Nah he'll claim you removed the stuffing and then took a pic to make it look like NCIX did a bad job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget who we're dealing w/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Club Seal of approval (I should draw this)


sigh, if only I would of thought of that first!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> sigh, if only I would of thought of that first!


But seriously there was nothing acting as a cushion ? I'm surprised the board/box inside is in good condition if it is. This is part of the reason people turned away from frozen-cpu iirc. At least from Arm3nian and a few others that have told me about it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> But seriously there was nothing acting as a cushion ? I'm surprised the board/box inside is in good condition if it is. This is part of the reason people turned away from frozen-cpu iirc. At least from Arm3nian and a few others that have told me about it.


Iv'e seen this from pretty much everyone besides Amazon. Performance PC uses wads of butcher paper most of the time. Frozen rarely uses anything. Waiting to hear if anyone else had zero padding in their package. It really may just be a fluke, as it didn't actually come from NCIX but the distribution warehouse or w/e

*OC POWER CABLE IS 26.5 INCHES = tiny*

(That's what she said)

Also, sent Kpoetic his game key.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Iv'e seen this from pretty much everyone besides Amazon. Performance PC uses wads of butcher paper most of the time. Frozen rarely uses anything. Waiting to hear if anyone else had zero padding in their package. It really may just be a fluke, as it didn't actually come from NCIX but the distribution warehouse or w/e
> 
> *OC POWER CABLE IS 26.5 INCHES = tiny*
> 
> (That's what she said)
> 
> *Also, sent Kpoetic his game key*.


Well seeing as they received it first then sent it over to be shipped..lol..anyways let us know what condition it's in, either way that's pretty piss poor packing for such an expensive piece of hardware.
The one I got from New Egg had those air bags inside as well as something else, was pretty nice packing.

*Noted and removed from the OP*


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Also, sent Kpoetic his game key.


Yup, kept his word. I didn't even have to bring it up


----------



## szeged

Still nothing about newegg getting more?

asus...pull out the whip and lash the factory sweatshop workers into overdrive.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Still nothing about newegg getting more?
> 
> asus...pull out the whip and lash the factory sweatshop workers into overdrive.


Someone mentioned they got theirs in , new egg filled in a few more preorders and went down again, seems Asus didn't expect this many to come through vs the initial pre orders lol.


----------



## skupples

Well, everything looks good. No bent pins from what I can tell, here's pictures of contents...

-4 all black SATA
-6 Black & White SATA
-4 way SLI bridge
-3 way SLI bridge
- long single link sli
- short single link sli
- LGA 1366 backplate... Looking @ this, I think I may need some nuts for the backplate mod. 2011 server sockets must not be the same dimensions as enthusiast 2011 socket. It doesn't even match up with the 2011 holes from the back. It's bigger than the 4 holes. hrmmmmmmm....


----------



## kpoeticg

One of those single SLI's is a CFX


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Someone mentioned they got theirs in , new egg filled in a few more preorders and went down again, seems Asus didn't expect this many to come through vs the initial pre orders lol.


by the time these are available again im gonna have spent all my money binning 780ti classys


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> [...] *OC POWER CABLE IS 26.5 INCHES = tiny* [...]


After seeing Tiny Tom pan the thing so hard for being too short, I was actually relieved to see how long it was. Don't get me wrong, it for sure could have been a little longer (that's what she said), but as it is it looks to be just long enough for me to be able route it back to the right side of the case and around to almost any of the 5.25" drive bays in either my Cosmo 2 or Enthoo Primo. Getting it to the top bay in the Cosmo 2 might be a bit tight but still looks like it will fit without having to resort to running it straight through the case instead of around the back, and it's not like I would want to put it in the top bay anywho.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Still nothing about newegg getting more?
> 
> asus...pull out the whip and lash the factory sweatshop workers into overdrive.


Rather not, I prefer quality boards over fast available. I'm listening to this musics. 



 Looking at video about games where they said:
Quote:


> Before my settler was nearly killed by cockroaches.


And if you can't wait, you can try to catch them all. (it might take these two weeks before MB would appear.)


----------



## xarot

Wow skupples hope your mobo is OK.

Sometimes companies do **** packaging or the delivery company finishes the job. I wish I had taken a pic of my 4960X when it arrived to local post office. The box was so bashed in that the processor box nearly came off from the shipping box...jump over a box for a few times and that'd be the condition I received it in. I had to drop an email to CaseKing where I bought it from, that I can't order anything from you anymore if you are going to use GLS for shipping...

But yeah my 4960X was still fine...


----------



## szeged

the cable may be too short for keeping it looking nice while reaching to a bay slot, i have some ideas of how im gonna fit it into one of the moveable HDD cages in the 900D without making everything a mess









JK NEWEGG WILL NEVER GET MORE IN STOCK SO I CANT SHOW YOU MY COMPLETED WORK WHY NEWEGG WHYYYYYY

guess ill go throw more money at gpus to satisfy my hunger for hardware until asus gets off their asses.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Wow skupples hope your mobo is OK.
> 
> Sometimes companies do **** packaging or the delivery company finishes the job. I wish I had taken a pic of my 4960X when it arrived to local post office. The box was so bashed in that the processor box nearly came off from the shipping box...jump over a box for a few times and that'd be the condition I received it in. I had to drop an email to CaseKing where I bought it from, that I can't order anything from you anymore if you are going to use GLS for shipping...
> 
> But yeah my 4960X was still fine...


It's xmass period. Companies have theirs hands full with orders, and they are hiring ******* to complement theirs normal workers. And there are long lines when you are grabbing it directly from the shop. Which is why I prefer to get my components before xmass period.


----------



## skupples

Looks like I had these backplate mod dimensions all out of whack. What MehstaubTheCat told me is now no longer obstructed by the language barrier. The four holes surrounding the socket ARE THE 1366 format. 90.5mm square. The only way to get this "LGA 2011" model to fit is with thermal glue, it's too big either way you slice it, front or back. Looks like i'm going to have to see if PPC will allow me to swap it out.


----------



## szeged

you should create your own and sell them


----------



## Porgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the cable may be too short for keeping it looking nice while reaching to a bay slot, i have some ideas of how im gonna fit it into one of the moveable HDD cages in the 900D without making everything a mess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JK NEWEGG WILL NEVER GET MORE IN STOCK SO I CANT SHOW YOU MY COMPLETED WORK WHY NEWEGG WHYYYYYY
> 
> guess ill go throw more money at gpus to satisfy my hunger for hardware until asus gets off their asses.


I had an existing preorder open that wasn't filled on the original preorder (they received 180 and took in 190 preorders). It got filled this morning as well as a couple others but not enough came in I guess to open up orders again. Hang in there man.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> you should create your own and sell them


Well, not that I see it, I still have some questions. Looks like the waterblock will have to hook into the dynatron it's self.



Remove the pins, get some nuts, good to go. it seems.

contacted PPC, hopefully they say yes. If not, still going to get it. Only 40$.

I'm really confused as to what the 2011 measurement is now.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Well, not that I see it, I still have some questions. Looks like the waterblock will have to hook into the dynatron it's self.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the pins, get some nuts, good to go. it seems.
> 
> contacted PPC, hopefully they say yes. If not, still going to get it. Only 40$.
> 
> I'm really confused as to what the 2011 measurement is now.
> 
> ok, I think I figured it out...
> 
> Use the left waterblock back plate w/ the mobo 1366 backplate, & everything should just go together. Really going to have to put a guide together once I get it all done.


Yeah I started having too many questions asking you about it previously so I figured I'd just better let it go until you put it up in your build log.

That said, looked to me like once you switch out to the 1366 backplate that comes with the RIVBE, that gives you a flat surface to mate the dynatron heatsink to, and then with long enough screws to go through the CPU waterblock, the 2011 holes in the mobo & through the Dynatron, CPU block and Dynatron would become each other's backplate. maybe I'm wrong about that but that's what I had pictured.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I started having too many questions asking you about it previously so I figured I'd just better let it go until you put it up in your build log.
> 
> That said, looked to me like once you switch out to the 1366 backplate that comes with the RIVBE, that gives you a flat surface to mate the dynatron heatsink to, and then with long enough screws to go through the CPU waterblock, the 2011 holes in the mobo & through the Dynatron, CPU block and Dynatron would become each other's backplate. maybe I'm wrong about that but that's what I had pictured.


Yeah... So, you don't use the provided waterblock back plates. The Dynatron becomes the waterblock backplate, with proper mating. I just gotta figure out what screws/nuts are used to make this happen. The waterblock will mount INTO the dynatron. I'm just not familiar with what type of hardware would be used to make this happen.

So, any suggestions would be greatly +1'd


----------



## DBaer

Skupples, so glad that you finally got one.









I just got mine running. I admit to a tinge of nervous energy when I pushed the button for the first time. No issues so far








My Q code says 34 however which is CPU post memory initialization, and it stays there (see pics of first start up and Q code below). What should the Q code say after boot. I have not set up my RAID and boot Etc yet and I have no OS in yet.
Anyway, here are my pictures of the first start up. (happy)


----------



## jamiee

First pic's......





Only items missing are a Crucial M500 960GB SSD (in my current build at the moment) and whatever video card(s) I end up getting...

Super stoked though! At least I can start building now


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I started having too many questions asking you about it previously so I figured I'd just better let it go until you put it up in your build log.
> 
> That said, looked to me like once you switch out to the 1366 backplate that comes with the RIVBE, that gives you a flat surface to mate the dynatron heatsink to, and then with long enough screws to go through the CPU waterblock, the 2011 holes in the mobo & through the Dynatron, CPU block and Dynatron would become each other's backplate. maybe I'm wrong about that but that's what I had pictured.


continued thought process. It seems it would be easiest to just find long screws to go through the back plate, up to the water block thumb nuts... Sound good?

forgive my idea bouncing thread.!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Skupples, so glad that you finally got one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just got mine running. I admit to a tinge of nervous energy when I pushed the button for the first time. No issues so far:thumb:
> My Q code says 34 however which is CPU post memory initialization, and it stays there (see pics of first start up and Q code below). What should the Q code say after boot. I have not set up my RAID and boot Etc yet and I have no OS in yet.
> Anyway, here are my pictures of the first start up. (happy)


Thank you kind sir! Looks good, I think some one posted a post code thread back a few.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First pic's......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only items missing are a Crucial M500 960GB SSD (in my current build at the moment) and whatever video card(s) I end up getting...
> 
> 
> 
> Super stoked though! At least I can start building now


Looking good!


----------



## LunaP

Speaking of blocks I need to order my CPU and GPU blocks at least.

Was gonna go XSBC w/ LED's for both but people keep swearing by EK to me lol ( with LED's as well)

Last minute thoughts?

Also debating which sides I"ll have SR-1's on and which I'll use UT-60's.

Thinking for the Top Part I'll use SR-1's and bottom I'll use UT-60's to get a clean loop across since the UT-60's allow in 1 side and out the other via top/side


----------



## szeged

Get EK blocks all the way, best waterblocks imo


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Speaking of blocks I need to order my CPU and GPU blocks at least.
> 
> Was gonna go XSBC w/ LED's for both but people keep swearing by EK to me lol ( with LED's as well)
> 
> Last minute thoughts?
> 
> Also debating which sides I"ll have SR-1's on and which I'll use UT-60's.
> 
> Thinking for the Top Part I'll use SR-1's and bottom I'll use UT-60's to get a clean loop across since the UT-60's allow in 1 side and out the other via top/side


EEEEEEEE K. Clean CSQ for CPU & GPU!

Seeing as this back plate mod is most definitely the first thing I must do, i'm still @ a stand still. Putting rads in takes a few minutes, & I can't do any proper routing until mobo is in. So, I guess it's down to lapping the back plate. THOUGH, I could only find 400 grit sand paper @ my local stores.


----------



## IT Diva

Wooooo Hoooooooo . . . . . .

Now I'm official . .

From Newegg to Texas, to the Virgin Islands, and faster than NCIX can get it around the corner . . .









It feels more like Christmas than turkey day for sure . .





Still waiting on the 4930K, but ups shows it's "out for delivery" to my friend in Texas, so it won't be long before it's here.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Awesome. Congrats Darlene!!!!
I'm going 4930k + 290x myself. I was gonna do 4 of em but now i think i'm just gonna start with 2 & add a 3rd when i can afford it. The multi 290x comparison Paul from Newegg did made me decide against adding a 4th. I'm definitely jealous right now though


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome. Congrats Darlene!!!!
> I'm going 4930k + 290x myself. I was gonna do 4 of em but now i think i'm just gonna start with 2 & add a 3rd when i can afford it. The multi 290x comparison Paul from Newegg did made me decide against adding a 4th. I'm definitely jealous right now though


I planned the Stretched Limo build as a quad GPU setup from the start.

I have trifire Matrix 7970's in my RIVE build already.

There's two 840 AMS rads, one for each pair of GPU's, and a 480 AMS for the CPU / RAM and Mobo block. (3 loops)

With acrylic tubing, I figured it was easier to just bite the bullet and do it the way I planned it right outta the chute.

This thing's so big, and I'm by myself, so it's all about doing it right the first time, and planning in advance.

Darlene


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> My Q code says 34 however which is CPU post memory initialization, and it stays there (see pics of first start up and Q code below). What should the Q code say after boot. I have not set up my RAID and boot Etc yet and I have no OS in yet.


"34" is normal for BIOS.


----------



## skupples

I bet Darlene's mechanical mind could easily destroy the best way to do this mod!


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> "34" is normal for BIOS.


Thanks, apriceated, I also have now figured out that AE is normal for post boot with no OS installed (Duh!)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Thanks, apriceated, I also have now figured out that AE is normal for post boot with no OS installed (Duh!)


Yep, also "AA" for normal CSM boot, and "41" for USB boot.

I think there is a full list in the manual, ASUS is usually good for that sort of stuff in manuals.


----------



## Arm3nian

Finally lol.


----------



## degenn

Love how you included an up-close & detailed picture of the calendar haha, nice.


----------



## kpoeticg

Congrats guys!!! I'm happy everybody finally got their boards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I bet Darlene's mechanical mind could easily destroy the best way to do this mod!


----------



## RSharpe

Build faster guys! FASTER!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Build faster guys! FASTER!


Nah, i'm just going to sit here & look at the parts for a few more days. My first step, once having the necessary things to get started is to gut this tower of all the carry over components, & turn it into an h80 sli 480 tower.














Actually, I may just stick the one stock cooler titan in it until it's time to socket the gpu's.

See! Arm3nian had packing puffs, but it's also in a different size box. Owellz! Everything seems to be in order, though iv'e yet to run a bare bones test. Will probably do it tomorrow, gotta dig the h80 out of storage.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I bet Darlene's mechanical mind could easily destroy the best way to do this mod!


I went the lo-tech option for a change on this . . . . .

Once I have some pics of the back side panel assembled and in place . . It'll show how much of a no brainer this option is on this build.

Darlene


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> First pic's......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only items missing are a Crucial M500 960GB SSD (in my current build at the moment) and whatever video card(s) I end up getting...
> 
> Super stoked though! At least I can start building now


Our builds are a lot alike! Can't wait to see your pics with it in the case. Can't wait to get a BE for my Air 540
If you don't mind keep me posted I'm interested to see how it turns out!


----------



## skupples

@It Diva so the 24v PSU's are modded to not need this type of thing from ADD2PSU?



it's a dual PSU adapter, that has a timer for the slave PSU, to allow it to run after shutdown. Though, looking @ the epic way you've done it, you have taken this idea to the 10th degree.


----------



## Arm3nian

Anyone try these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233346

Only 1.5v and low timings. I wonder how much those could oc with an ivy-e chip and this board.


----------



## szeged

dominator platinum

overpriced


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> dominator platinum
> 
> overpriced


Everything corsair is overpriced. But this kit looks nice.

Trident x was originally recommended for ivy, and not sb or sb-e, but I think ivy-e and especially with this board should run it fine. Anyone try them?


----------



## szeged

people buying large amounts to price gouge on ebay is the reason we cant have nice things










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






is it wrong i hope this guy has a house fire and all of his equipment goes up in flames.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Everything corsair is overpriced. But this kit looks nice.
> 
> Trident x was originally recommended for ivy, and not sb or sb-e, but I think ivy-e and especially with this board should run it fine. Anyone try them?


I've been running them from the beginning at my kit's rated 2400mhz with my 4.7ghz overclock without any problems. I just used XMP and didn't have to do a anything else. The ASUS ROG forums state it's not supposed to be easy getting both a CPU overclock and memory overclock to play together, but I didn't find any problems at all.


----------



## PoolBoy

Hi guys,

I am really glad to become part of the community!I am from Hong Kong (and still living in Hong Kong right now), I am so glad that I am going to receive the RIVBE from NCIX CA, I believe I am in the first batch and made a right choice! Probably I am the first one in Hong Kong receiving such board.

You know what, since I am living in Hong Kong, everytime when I know there is some new hardware coming out, it made me mouth watered because the North America is always the first one to get them, while we have to wait for another month. Even though ASUS is from Taiwan (pretty close to Hong Kong), they still don't have any news about the RIVBE yet.

In fact I am a first-timer in a number of areas.
1. Joining an oversea forum.
2. Owners Club
3. LGA 2011 user
4. Ordering MB oversea
5. Water-cool my rig (going to, just waiting for upcoming nVidia cards)

I am so excited to see my new built, since my previous one was quite outdated:

ASUS Stiker II Formula
Intel Q9650
Corsair Dominator DDR2-1066 (2GB x 2)
Inno3D GTX295 x 2 (in Quad SLI) w/ 3D Vision
CREATIVE Soundblaster X-Fi Fatal1ty Professional Series
WD VelociRaptor 150GB x 2 (in Raid 0)
Viewsonic 22' 120 HZ in 3D Vision
ICONIK Vulcan 1200W PSU

Here is my new built (feel free to comment and provide suggestion)

ASUS RIVBE
Intel i7-4930k
GSkill Trident X DDR3-2400 PC3-19200 CL10-12-12-31 32GB kit (4 x 8GB)
REVODRIVE 3 X2 240GB
SuperSSpeed Hyper Gold S301 128GB x 2 (in Raid 0)
Inno3D GTX295 (Still waiting for new ones, the MARS is disappointing :/)
Creative Soundblaster Zx
ASUS VG27HE 120Hz 3D Vision 2 ready monitor
Cosair 750D Chassis
ENERMAX Platimax 1500W 80plus-Platinum PSU
Bitfenix RECON LCD Fan Controller with a number of Gentle Typhoons AP-45 2150 rpm

Note:
For those who are getting RIVBE because it's black, please don't kill me as I am going to decorate my rig with Black and RED again







Red leds, tubes, blah blah blah


----------



## szeged

welcome to overclock.net and the RIVE-BE club


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @It Diva so the 24v PSU's are modded to not need this type of thing from ADD2PSU?
> 
> 
> 
> it's a dual PSU adapter, that has a timer for the slave PSU, to allow it to run after shutdown. Though, looking @ the epic way you've done it, you have taken this idea to the 10th degree.


Whether a PSU is 24V or not isn't really a relevant factor.

Those things allow a PSU with its 24pin plug connected to it to turn on when the main PSU turns on, and not turn off until a presettable amount of time after the main PSU turns off.

A 4 pin molex from the main PSU plugs to the 4 pin connector on the board as a signaling line.

Things like that are primarily to allow you to maintain fans and coolant circulation run from a second PSU for a while after shutdown.

For most users, it's not worth the trouble, and doubtfully adds any tangible benefit, but for benchers pushing to the max, where crashes usually occur while the system is producing the most heat, and may not restart right away, it could be a lifesaver.

You'd really have to do some planning to make sure you covered all the bases to use one in a gaming system where fan and pump control is reasonably sophisticated to give both quiet and hi-performance operation thru speed controls.

On another note, I tried my best, I really really did, to not open the box and play with the toys until I had lots of time and was ready to put in the ram and CPU and test run it on the kitchen table. . . . .

But alas, my weakness was stronger than I was, and I opened the box and it smelled so nice and new, almost had a religious experience . . . . at least I found all the pins were fine.

I had some bent ones on my RIVE, but was able to re-orient them without having to send it back.

Darlene


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> But seriously there was nothing acting as a cushion ? I'm surprised the board/box inside is in good condition if it is. This is part of the reason people turned away from frozen-cpu iirc. At least from Arm3nian and a few others that have told me about it.


I always find these sort of comments odd. Does one persons package not having padding mean everyones doesn't? I've probably ordered more things from FrozenCPU here than anyone down through the years and they have always come well packed.

As for the recent Newegg stock, looks like mine didn't make the cut. Not a huge deal though as I won't be able to work on the new PC for a week or two.


----------



## szeged

im just going insane with nothing to play with, waiting on a RIVE-BE, waiting on 780ti classys, waiting on the 4930k. All i can do is tinker around with haswell and an air cooled 780ti =\ wheres the fun in that?


----------



## Bimmer555

what temps are expected from my cpu at idle and under load.... it went way up after i changed those settings.

it is idle around 58C, kinda high it seems. what do you see as safe temps for idle and under load for a pretty good overclocked setup.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> I always find these sort of comments odd. Does one persons package not having padding mean everyones doesn't? I've probably ordered more things from FrozenCPU here than anyone down through the years and they have always come well packed.
> 
> As for the recent Newegg stock, looks like mine didn't make the cut. Not a huge deal though as I won't be able to work on the new PC for a week or two.


Skupples' BE didn't come with any packaging, and the product itself has no padding on the inside. It is literally just a box inside another box. My BE on the other hand came with some air cushions and we ordered from the same place and they shipped it out the same day.

Nothing I've ordered from FrozenCPU has come with normal packaging. The EK acrylic blocks have nice padding on the inside, but acrylic is soft and cracks easily. My radiators were also thrown into a box, and we all know radiators get bent easily when thrown around by UPS or whoever else it may be.

When I ship products to buyers on Ebay, I package my items to the death, which is why I have 100% feedback and everyone raves about my shipping. FrozenCPU just cheaps out to save a dime, because they don't actually care if the product survives or doesn't, because they know their RMA is so bad most would just keep the DOA item. Retailers like Newegg take care of the RMA to make it a fast process. FCPU half the time just tells you to contact the manufacturer even within the 30 days.


----------



## szeged

all of my packages from frozencpu have been packed correctly, havent had anything from them go wrong really. the last EK 780 classified block i bought form them was chipped and cracked, just shot them an email and it was replaced in a day









now amazon on the other hand, everything ive had delivered from them they might as well packed it with a bunch of razorblades and jagged rocks inside the box instead of foam.


----------



## CallsignVega

I won't argue that FrozenCPU's customer server is pretty lacking. But like I've said, over dozens of packages shipped to me over the years all have been packed just fine. As a matter of fact, my 780Ti Classified water blocks just came in today and everything is well packed.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> all of my packages from frozencpu have been packed correctly, havent had anything from them go wrong really. the last EK 780 classified block i bought form them was chipped and cracked, just shot them an email and it was replaced in a day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now amazon on the other hand, everything ive had delivered from them they might as well packed it with a bunch of razorblades and jagged rocks inside the box instead of foam.


Chipped and cracked because it was packaged badly lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> I won't argue that FrozenCPU's customer server is pretty lacking. But like I've said, over dozens of packages shipped to me over the years all have been packed just fine. As a matter of fact, my 780Ti Classified water blocks just came in today and everything is well packed.


which blocks did you get? clear or acetyl? ive been waiting on more clears to come in stock


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Chipped and cracked because it was packaged badly lol


was just the corner







and the EK box was 100% fine, no damage to it all, so im confused on how the block got cracked lol.

here it is


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> was just the corner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the EK box was 100% fine, no damage to it all, so im confused on how the block got cracked lol.
> 
> here it is
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Perhaps damaged when they were drilling the threads?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> was just the corner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the EK box was 100% fine, no damage to it all, so im confused on how the block got cracked lol.
> 
> here it is
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are there going to be more for the 780ti classifieds or are these it. I think there is this one and also an acetal block.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Nah, i'm just going to sit here & look at the parts for a few more days. My first step, once having the necessary things to get started is to gut this tower of all the carry over components, & turn it into an h80 sli 480 tower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, I may just stick the one stock cooler titan in it until it's time to socket the gpu's.
> 
> See! Arm3nian had packing puffs, but it's also in a different size box. Owellz! Everything seems to be in order, though iv'e yet to run a bare bones test. Will probably do it tomorrow, gotta dig the h80 out of storage.


Sadly Skupps I think they gave you my box and gave me yours, mind came hella packed w/ air stuffs.. |:

Time to check for bent pins then send a photo to my friend so he can pay up, gonna order le TH10 TONIGHT hopefully.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Are there going to more for the 780ti classifieds or are these it.


these will fit the 780ti classy


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> these will fit the 780ti classy


I know they will, but maybe EK is making one that says 780ti on it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I know they will, but maybe EK is making one that says 780ti on it.


they already said they arent going to, this will be the block to get for the 780ti classy.


----------



## LunaP




----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> they already said they arent going to, this will be the block to get for the 780ti classy.


Maybe there will be a revision that says ti on it. Only saying this because the 780 is 290 level of performance and costs $100 more. Ti on the other hand will slaughter all. I want my block to say Ti at the end lol.


----------



## jamiee

The shipping carton I got from NCIX could have held at least six RIVBE retail boxes in it... It was bloody huge for what was inside!
And was well packed at that... Ton's of craft paper, air bags, and even large pieces of Styrofoam blocks. I was beginning to wonder if I'd even find the motherboard in there Lol!

BUT..... *No calendar*. What's up with that?
...Must be a US only thing....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> The shipping carton I got from NCIX could have held at least six RIVBE retail boxes in it... It was bloody huge for what was inside!
> And was well packed at that... Ton's of craft paper, air bags, and even large pieces of Styrofoam blocks. I was beginning to wonder if I'd even find the motherboard in there Lol!
> 
> BUT..... *No calendar*. What's up with that?
> ...Must be a US only thing....


LOL! Some serious inconsistencies here. Sounds like you got all of my packing. I would say I got two calendars to make it sound lawls, but that isn't true.

Serious Sam HD: Second Encounter is OWNING MY FACE(on serious)

spinning room of death with explosive frogs spawning on both sides...


----------



## szeged

getting ready for the RIVE-BE when it gets in stock



2400mhz, cas 9, 16gb


----------



## saer

Finally.. *Never again, NCIX.. Never again..*

(ignore the date, just got home from work and too tired to make a new tag







)


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> getting ready for the RIVE-BE when it gets in stock
> 
> 
> 
> 2400mhz, cas 9, 16gb


Hmm getting the ram I recommended to everyone. This is seriously the best kit for the price. Hope it works in the BE.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Hmm getting the ram I recommended to everyone. This is seriously the best kit for the price. Hope it works in the BE.


if it doesnt work in the BE for some reason, its going into the 5ghz haswell rig


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> if it doesnt work in the BE for some reason, its going into the 5ghz haswell rig


I'm thinking it is going to work, the "recommended for z77" was there because sb didn't have the best imc. Ivy-e has a strong one. Also, that exact kit is in the manual.


----------



## szeged

all i need now is a 4930k that can do 5ghz and ill be set lol.

oh and the motherboard....still waiting on newegg.....probably wont get more in stock till next week im guessing =\ really driving me crazy lol.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> all i need now is a 4930k that can do 5ghz and ill be set lol.
> 
> oh and the motherboard....still waiting on newegg.....probably wont get more in stock till next week im guessing =\ really driving me crazy lol.


Yeah I'm kind of glad I didn't cancel my NCIX order. I also want 5ghz on my 4930k, it would make me happy


----------



## szeged

next week is gonna be a big week for my wallet lol, 780ti classified (supposedly) RIVE-BE(hopefully) sth10, 4930k


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> next week is gonna be a big week for my wallet lol, 780ti classified (supposedly) RIVE-BE(hopefully) sth10, 4930k


I'm going to order everything on cybermonday, including 4930k and 780ti classy. Maybe wc parts will go on sale.


----------



## kpoeticg

Do you know what kinda discounts there'll be for the 4930k on Monday? Or are u just going off the fact that everywhere's gonna have sales goin on?

We should go 60/40 on 2 4930k's. 60 gets better clocker


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Do you know what kinda discounts there'll be for the 4930k on Monday? Or are u just going off the fact that everywhere's gonna have sales goin on?
> 
> We should go 60/40 on 2 4930k's. 60 gets better clocker


4930k goes down to $559 sometimes, maybe it will be a bit cheaper on Monday.


----------



## szeged

i think we saw the 3930k hit $499 for black friday last year, im hoping the 4930k follows suit







if not, can always find one for $30 to $50 off anyways.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i think we saw the 3930k hit $499 for black friday last year, im hoping the 4930k follows suit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if not, can always find one for $30 to $50 off anyways.


Seee...now a 550$ savings vs a 400$ savings from a 4960 --> 4930k would be nice..I'm past my return but I think I can cheat the system by returning it for store cash, then going to the counter and having it refunded, which bypasses the restocking as well. That's how I returned my h100i + Air540 2 days after the return expired.

And yes I still have my 4960, they don't carry 4930k's at either fry's but still had 1 4960 left lol. Go fig


----------



## seross69

I have never found what is actually good deals on things that I want on black friday or cyber Monday or any other days like this. I have seen the prices increase and if you are like me you are shopping and buying all year so you know where the price should be. the stores will have like 5 of one item that is real cheap and that is it. but it fills the stores and when people go to stores they will buy.. because they see sell and believe it..

on a lot of items you read fine print... the big sale days is some of the best marketing every done.. everyone believes it and buys into it. this marketing is almost as good as Disney!!! LOL

I always like to wait until after the first and stores are trying to get rid of stock. I have found good deals then but this depends on sales during Christmas time..

I bought the 3930k in March at MC for 499.00 I thought that was regular price??


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Hmm getting the ram I recommended to everyone. This is seriously the best kit for the price. Hope it works in the BE.


holy hell. I payed 130$ per kit on that 3 months ago, and that was even sky high. Silly holiday season rip off pricing.

The true good deals come 30-60 days AFTER xmas. Until then, everyone is trying to sell the least possible supply with all the gift card madness floating around. This excludes door buster madness TV sales. That's pretty much all black friday has turned into IN MOST places.

Last year : these panels, 100$ each, down from 199$, & 50$ 128GB vertex 3 SSD's, that I got 4 of, & resold on ebay for full price. This was during the TRUE bottom out of DDR3 when it was ~10$ a gig.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> holy hell. I payed 130$ per kit on that 3 months ago, and that was even sky high. Silly holiday season rip off pricing.
> 
> The true good deals come 30-60 days AFTER xmas. Until then, everyone is trying to sell the least possible supply with all the gift card madness floating around.


Ram was cheap 3 months ago, that factory explosion made the prices rise. The kit I linked is amazing for the price compared to others at the present.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Ram was cheap 3 months ago, *that factory explosion made the prices rise*. The kit I linked is amazing for the price compared to others at the present.


Damn I'd better order that other 32gb pack stat!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Damn I'd better order that other 32gb pack stat!


Prices have settled.

Here is the hynix factory


----------



## szeged

yeah i dont think prices were effected that much really, ram has been steadily going up in price anyways.

also - im back to walking down the streets in japan on google maps waiting on newegg to get more RIVEBE in stock


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah i dont think prices were effected that much really, ram has been steadily going up in price anyways.
> 
> also - im back to walking down the streets in japan on google maps waiting on newegg to get more RIVEBE in stock


I'm just browsing through people's rigs. How do you like your advanced lrt tubing and ap-15s


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Ram was cheap 3 months ago, that factory explosion made the prices rise. The kit I linked is amazing for the price compared to others at the present.


Oh man, if you think ram was cheep 3 months ago, you should of seen it this time last year. It HAS to be the lowest DD3 has EVER been. Take the prices of today, & cut them all in half & then some.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I'm just browsing through people's rigs. How do you like your advanced lrt tubing and ap-15s


LRT is good stuff. I have the blood red in "scrapped" right now. I won't comment on fans, to each his own ear.(they suck)

sigh, i can't find any rubbing alcohol above 70% concentration in south florida. WHAT A JOKe.


----------



## Bimmer555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> well, up that vccsa, lower that PLL, enable the option I mentioned, and reboot.
> 
> still stable?
> 
> try 0.025V less on CPU.
> 
> You aren't pushing high ram clocks, but as CPU speed increases, so does NB/L3 speed,(it's tied to CPU speed, haswell separates these), so the load from NB/L3 is greater when CPU speed is increased. NB/L3 interfaces with PCIe and memory controller, so these two are getting more action as well...so they need adjustment too, although they may be running "stock".
> 
> I don't have 4930K, but have a few 4960X, which is the same basic chip.
> 
> I always like to start with 1.25V CPU voltage, everything else as I mentioned, and then set 2666 MHz ram @ 125 MHz bus, with 32x multi (for 4000 MHz). I just increase multipliers one by one, and run wPrime to see some temps and some basic stability. If it passes, I increase multi again. So here's what I got with the first chip:
> 
> 
> 
> I am not using TurboV Core to adjust anything..all voltages are set manually in BIOS.


So I've tweaked a few settings.

lowered my CPU voltage to 1.375
enabled PLL Termination Voltage option
adjusted CPU PLL to 1.45V but noticed it says it's supposed to be set at default of 1.8v????
then I set VTT and VCCSA manually to 1.05V

I would like to get more out of my CPU, not sure if I should set to 125mhz and change multiplier... but i'm not to familiar with what I should do with my Corsair Dominator Platinum 16gb 1866mhz ram and how that all will be effected. Currently I've set it to XMP, as it wanted to run at 1333mhz with the current overclock if set to auto.

I'm no expert, and this board is very complex compared to my old EVGA classified 760A1

Thank you for you suggestions.

Currently it's solid with the CPU PLL set at 1.8v, but had a crash when it was set at 1.45v - was running wprime 1024 in 3min 12sec

while playing battlefield, the CPU gets up to 72C, and idles in Win7 around 51C


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Oh man, if you think ram was cheep 3 months ago, you should of seen it this time last year. It HAS to be the lowest DD3 has EVER been. Take the prices of today, & cut them all in half & then some.
> LRT is good stuff. I have the blood red in "scrapped" right now. I won't comment on fans, to each his own ear.(they suck)
> 
> sigh, i can't find any rubbing alcohol above 70% concentration in south florida. WHAT A JOKe.


Yeah ram was basically free last year. You could get quality 4x4gb sticks for $40.

Almost all the drug stores here sell 91%.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Yeah ram was basically free last year. You could get quality 4x4gb sticks for $40.
> 
> Almost all the drug stores here sell 91%.


Sigh, I have to order stuff like Indigo Xtreme clean due to the lack of PROPER rubbing booze. My bottle is a bout half empty, & the stuff doesn't go very far due to it's "fast evap" status. It's epic stuff though, can clean the crusty TIM off of a 10 year old XBox heat sink in 10 seconds.


----------



## TheDude26




----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I'm just browsing through people's rigs. How do you like your advanced lrt tubing and ap-15s


Adv Lrt is imo the best soft tubing you can get

And the ap15s are the best rad fans I've ever owned. They can be noisy when you have 25 of them in one rig, so fan controllers are your friend


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Adv Lrt is imo the best soft tubing you can get
> 
> And the ap15s are the best rad fans I've ever owned. They can be noisy when you have 25 of them in one rig, so fan controllers are your friend


I've had the primochill pro in the past and it was pretty much the worst tubing ever created. Plasticizer was released the next day and it fogged. This was with only copper in the loop and distilled water with a nuke. Most seem to like the adv lrt so I might give that a go.

I've had 8 ap-14s before, and they were alright, not the quietest thing. I'm probably going with two monsta 480s this time around, I know the rads are really thick, but I don't think push pull will make much of a difference with really high static pressure fans like the ap-15. I hope 8 of them will be tolerable. Will just be watercooling the 4930k and 780ti classy this time so the two monstas should be good enough, will add 2 more later when I get more gpu's.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Finally.. *Never again, NCIX.. Never again..*
> 
> (ignore the date, just got home from work and too tired to make a new tag
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










the worst is past us lol, and grats at long last








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDude26*


Grats added! which CPU you stickin in ?


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> My Q code says 34 however which is CPU post memory initialization, and it stays there (see pics of first start up and Q code below). What should the Q code say after boot. I have not set up my RAID and boot Etc yet and I have no OS in yet.


Disabled all memory training options in bios once you find sweetspot with your ram oc

Some info:

Courtesy of Shamino



http://imgur.com/IAwtv7v


oc panel

Almost exactly like M6E exept no need for ROG connect Plus to be installed



http://imgur.com/Dc4LD8F


Slow mode switch will reduce your multiplier cpu in windows, usable for cold cpu operation

Pause switch will stop all operation in windows. It helps when benching with air or h20 and push cpu / gpu to highest temp. and voltages limit.
It will give a break to cpu / gpu and return to normal idle temp. before continuing to bench load temp.

HDD led will help to check if system hang occur, it helps when benching Super pi or 3Ds



http://imgur.com/0cCtq2G


For temp. monitoring



http://imgur.com/vld9NUA




http://imgur.com/yJsxJQk




http://imgur.com/ok2CKPY




http://imgur.com/nZG5MtE




http://imgur.com/UxCHJFb




http://imgur.com/CqkfB0F




http://imgur.com/XyLRimg


----------



## szeged

think ive figured out why AC4 keeps crashing almost instantly for me, i forgot to switch my 780ti profiles in Prec-X back to gaming from benching lol, trying to run games at 1330mhz core and 2000 mem







that might cause some problems lol







also forgot to set my dram back to stock clocks lol.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooooo Hoooooooo . . . . . .
> 
> Now I'm official . .
> 
> From Newegg to Texas, to the Virgin Islands, and faster than NCIX can get it around the corner . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It feels more like Christmas than turkey day for sure . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting on the 4930K, but ups shows it's "out for delivery" to my friend in Texas, so it won't be long before it's here.
> 
> Darlene


Holy mother of god.. Are you single =)... J/K.


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> getting ready for the RIVE-BE when it gets in stock
> 
> 
> 
> 2400mhz, cas 9, 16gb


Nice.









I already have a 32GB quad kit of Trident X 2400 cas10 that I haven't opened yet but I ordered a 16GB quad kit of 2666 cas11 the other day, too...











The 2666 is officially supported which is nice. Others don't seem to be having any issues running Trident X 2400 in the BE either way though.

Haven't decided if I'll use the 32gb kit @ 2400 or the 16gb kit @ 2666 -- leaning toward 2666


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Damn I'd better order that other 32gb pack stat!


Well it was in October. A shot from a cruiser Aurora started great October revolution, disgruntled low paid workers moved to enforce theirs demands, and RAM factory burned down.

Of course RAM prices stayed high since, even when Micron already finished the new 20 nm process.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i think we saw the 3930k hit $499 for black friday last year, im hoping the 4930k follows suit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if not, can always find one for $30 to $50 off anyways.


Umm, if anyone knows of any discounts on a 4930k, today, Black Friday, or up until Cyber Monday, please do share the secret. "$30 to $50 off" would be sweet.

I've been trying to keep tabs on prices on a 4930k since IVY-E was released, mostly just at Newegg & Amazon and whatever results 'Google Shopping' gets me, and I've not yet seen it anywhere cheaper than the $579 price tag. Haven't even seen a component coupon or deal from being on Newegg's mailing list that would let me get any kind of a discount on a 4930k yet. It's pretty much come down to I can't wait any longer than this weekend before I'm going to have to buy one regardless.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Ok, for us guys that aren't going full water cooling and will just be running a h-100i what kind of max overclock are we looking at? Temps? Voltage? Also what are your thoughts on the OC panel? Since I have the Corsair Air 540 as my case it won't look right in the case mounted vertical. And honestly I doubt I will ever use the thing. Might find someone on here to buy the thing...lol Thoughts?


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Umm, if anyone knows of any discounts on a 4930k, today, Black Friday, or up until Cyber Monday, please do share the secret. "$30 to $50 off" would be sweet.
> 
> I've been trying to keep tabs on prices on a 4930k since IVY-E was released, mostly just at Newegg & Amazon and whatever results 'Google Shopping' gets me, and I've not yet seen it anywhere cheaper than the $579 price tag. Haven't even seen a component coupon or deal from being on Newegg's mailing list that would let me get any kind of a discount on a 4930k yet. It's pretty much come down to I can't wait any longer than this weekend before I'm going to have to buy one regardless.


Don't know if the 4930k is going to drop. But the 3930k definitely did. Not bad>>>>>http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-3930K-Hexa-Core-Processor-Cache/dp/B00603QXPM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1385562817&sr=8-2&keywords=intel+4930k

New egg still got the 3930k for $569.00 on there site when amazon selling for this^^^^^ wow


----------



## Jacoblab

Mine finally arrived today!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats added! which CPU you stickin in ?


Y u no add me?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bimmer555*
> 
> So I've tweaked a few settings.
> 
> lowered my CPU voltage to 1.375
> enabled PLL Termination Voltage option
> adjusted CPU PLL to 1.45V but noticed it says it's supposed to be set at default of 1.8v????
> then I set VTT and VCCSA manually to 1.05V
> 
> I would like to get more out of my CPU, not sure if I should set to 125mhz and change multiplier... but i'm not to familiar with what I should do with my Corsair Dominator Platinum 16gb 1866mhz ram and how that all will be effected. Currently I've set it to XMP, as it wanted to run at 1333mhz with the current overclock if set to auto.
> 
> I'm no expert, and this board is very complex compared to my old EVGA classified 760A1
> 
> Thank you for you suggestions.
> 
> Currently it's solid with the CPU PLL set at 1.8v, but had a crash when it was set at 1.45v - was running wprime 1024 in 3min 12sec
> 
> while playing battlefield, the CPU gets up to 72C, and idles in Win7 around 51C


Did you have PLL Overvotlage option enabled is on auto? you can try enabled...

What I have found is that if you drop PLL voltage (yeah, it's much lower than stock), you can find the "breaking point" pretty easy. You'll notice that there are two PLL termination voltage options..one for boot, and one for later...

Anyway, I found I could find easy air OCs with low PLL...first multi that failed, when starting from 32 multi with 125 bus for 4.0 GHz, was the point where CPU would need large voltage increase for next multi. That's you basic air OC. one you found approx. frequency, then you can go back to "normal" PLL settings. Some chips will actually run a bit better with the lowered PLL option for benchmarks, but once you've found where that voltage boost is needed, you are into the territory of fine-tweaking everything.


----------



## TheDude26

@LunaP

Sticking with a 4930k. This is my second 4930k, the first one was a real dog, 4.4 at 1.42 , it basically hit a wall at 4.4 no matter what I threw at it. I spent a few minutes playing with it last night, new CPU I am at 4.5 @ 1.36. I was able to boot to windows with 4.7 @ 1.45 but haven't tested for stability. So far 4.5 at 1.36 seems pretty stable, will need to do more testing this weekend.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> Mine finally arrived today!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Y u no add me?


You're at the top of the list Lol, you're like my our special VP we can't disregard you







there made it MORE apparent








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDude26*
> 
> @LunaP
> 
> Sticking with a 4930k. This is my second 4930k, the first one was a real dog, 4.4 at 1.42 , it basically hit a wall at 4.4 no matter what I threw at it. I spent a few minutes playing with it last night, new CPU I am at 4.5 @ 1.36. I was able to boot to windows with 4.7 @ 1.45 but haven't tested for stability. So far 4.5 at 1.36 seems pretty stable, will need to do more testing this weekend.


Ah nice, I'll add that to the list, what Batch # do you have on your box for your chip?


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDude26*
> 
> @LunaP
> 
> Sticking with a 4930k. This is my second 4930k, the first one was a real dog, 4.4 at 1.42 , it basically hit a wall at 4.4 no matter what I threw at it. I spent a few minutes playing with it last night, new CPU I am at 4.5 @ 1.36. I was able to boot to windows with 4.7 @ 1.45 but haven't tested for stability. So far 4.5 at 1.36 seems pretty stable, will need to do more testing this weekend.


Dont get me wrong. I am all for the latest and greatest as well. But you just may want the 3930k for overclocking. It tends to do better. People are finding out. Its cheaper and the performance difference between both are minimal. But to each there own


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've had the primochill pro in the past and it was pretty much the worst tubing ever created. Plasticizer was released the next day and it fogged. This was with only copper in the loop and distilled water with a nuke. Most seem to like the adv lrt so I might give that a go.
> 
> I've had 8 ap-14s before, and they were alright, not the quietest thing. I'm probably going with two monsta 480s this time around, I know the rads are really thick, but I don't think push pull will make much of a difference with really high static pressure fans like the ap-15. I hope 8 of them will be tolerable. Will just be watercooling the 4930k and 780ti classy this time so the two monstas should be good enough, will add 2 more later when I get more gpu's
> 
> 
> .


I'm using black norprene in this build. Rubber hose basically. Hard core stuff.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm using black norprene in this build. Rubber hose basically. Hard core stuff.


You need some of this skup>>>>http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c633/s2020/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_-_Rigid_Acrylic-12_OD_Rigid_Tubing-Page1.html

and this>>>>http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21575/ex-tub-2120/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Tubing_Bending_Kit_.html?tl=g30c633s2020

and this>>>http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c633/s2021/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_-_Rigid_Acrylic-12_OD_Rigid_Compression-Page1.html

Oh and you need a heat gun

Never have to do a tubing change again Change your fluid less frequently as well. Or do the E22 ridged acrylic with the bitspower multi link fittings.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

These new fittings primochill came out with look pretty sweet. These actually are a very close match to the bitpower black sparkle fittings color. But i like the new design.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22093/ex-tub-2364/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Revolver_Compression_Diamond_Knurled_Fittings_-_10_Pack_-_Nickel_Plated_Brass_-_Silver.html?tl=g30c633s2021#blank

Im sorry scratch out above^^!!!! These are the ones that are close to bitspower black sparkle>>>>>>>http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21561/ex-tub-2119/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Revolver_Compression_Diamond_Knurled_Fittings_-_4_Pack_-_Nickel_Plated_Brass_-_Black.html?tl=g30c633s2021

They are sweet!!!!!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Dont get me wrong. I am all for the latest and greatest as well. But you just may want the 3930k for overclocking. It tends to do better. People are finding out. Its cheaper and the performance difference between both are minimal. But to each there own


Yeah I did a lot of reviews too which is why I decided on IVY-E vs IVY. 4.5 on a 4930 is the equiv to a 4.8/4.9 on a 3930k, also half the power consumption, so while the speeds may look slower the performance is definitely better, that + the chipset is dependent on the CPU as I wouldn't be taking advantage much on the 3930k as I would on the 4930k Appreciate the info though, but I'll settle w/ 5ghz on my 4960x which would be about 5.3 - 5.4 on the 3960


----------



## Redshift 91

I don't know how much voltage you guys plan on putting your cpus through, but my first 3570k died from 1.35 v on a 24/7 4.7 ghz oc. I can't bring myself to exceed 1.45 on my 3930k for 24/7 and that only gets me to 4.6 ghz. I hope you have better luck than I did reaching for those high ocs.


----------



## skupples

@OPTIX ONE I take things apart WAY too much to use acrylic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I don't know how much voltage you guys plan on putting your cpus through, but my first 3570k died from 1.35 v on a 24/7 4.7 ghz oc. I can't bring myself to exceed 1.45 on my 3930k for 24/7 and that only gets me to 4.6 ghz. I hope you have better luck than I did reaching for those high ocs.


What kind of temps was your 3570k running @? Iv'e been running mine @ 1.425 @ 4.8 for over a year now. Delidded, max temps ~60.

Most of the reviews iv'e seen show ivy-e ~200mhz difference. So, 4.5 on a ivy is like 4.7 on a sandy. If this 3930k gives me nothing but trouble i'll be cashing in my OC warranty , & picking up a 4930k.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah I did a lot of reviews too which is why I decided on IVY-E vs IVY. 4.5 on a 4930 is the equiv to a 4.8/4.9 on a 3930k, also half the power consumption, so while the speeds may look slower the performance is definitely better, that + the chipset is dependent on the CPU as I wouldn't be taking advantage much on the 3930k as I would on the 4930k Appreciate the info though, but I'll settle w/ 5ghz on my 4960x which would be about 5.3 - 5.4 on the 3960


I have not seen any actual benches that confirm ivy-e at 4.5 4930k is the equiv to 4.8/4.9 on 3930k. So i do not know where you got that info.(Please share) But i do know the performance is not a night and day difference and is within a couple percent supposedly. There is only a slight performance increase. I do know that it takes less power.(Not always a good thing) Hmmmm 4960x $1,050.00 on a chip! Oh my.... you have some heart and soul there! I have a very expensive rig and even i wouldn't drop that on a chip anywhere anytime ever!!!!. Rather put the extra dough to other parts of the build.


----------



## skupples

He will be one of ten people who have achieved 5.0 on a 4960x under water.


----------



## Valice

Another question for you proud owners!

Could someone measure the distance between the two PCIe x16 Lanes for me? Need to know it to get the right EK Bridge for my Dualfire setup









thanks!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> I have not seen any actual benches that confirm ivy-e at 4.5 4930k is the equiv to 4.8/4.9 on 3930k. So i do not know where you got that info.(Please share) But i do know the performance is not a night and day difference and is within a couple percent supposedly. There is only a slight performance increase. I do know that it takes less power.(Not always a good thing) Hmmmm 4960x $1,050.00 on a chip! Oh my.... *you have some heart and soul there*! I have a very expensive rig and even i wouldn't drop that on a chip anywhere anytime ever!!!!. Rather put the extra dough to other parts of the build.


This is pretty much the statement behind most people on this site lol. We toss the inclination of money out the door the moment we get into building/overclocking







I'm not complaining to much, as this hobby is dirt cheap compared to my anime collection hobby >_>;

I've got a few reviews actually, here's an older one, I read multiple because each chip is different ( silicon lottery ftw though people do seem to have better luck w/ X's than K's that seems to be more or less true.)
Quote:


> To push that point home I found that when overclocked to 4.4GHz the Core i7 4960X is just about as fast as the Core i7 3960X Sandy Bridge Extreme clocked close to 300MHz higher at 4.7GHz. That's progress as they say. Each and every test had measurable improvements over the prior generation.


http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/intel_core_i7_4960x/11.htm
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/core_i7_4960x_processor_review,1.html
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7255/intel-core-i7-4960x-ivy-bridge-e-review/6

I'll get the others later I'm at work. Most are saved at home. Granted yeah noone but intel and extremists can justify the price difference, other than going for the best, for me its more of a peace of mind and because the store I grabbed it from doesn't have any 4930k's and I hate ordering online when I don't have to







Coming from a 980X I think I'll keep the generation going.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> He will be one of ten people who have achieved 5.0 on a 4960x under water.


YE-YUH









It's early too so I"m sure more will surface now that we HAVE boards to use our chips in


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valice*
> 
> Another question for you proud owners!
> 
> Could someone measure the distance between the two PCIe x16 Lanes for me? Need to know it to get the right EK Bridge for my Dualfire setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks!


same as vanilla rive. you can find guides on frozencpu when you look @ the links.


----------



## Redshift 91

Skupples
I was getting ~65c with my h80. I guess the experience has caused me to be over cautious.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @OPTIX ONE I take things apart WAY too much to use acrylic.
> What kind of temps was your 3570k running @? Iv'e been running mine @ 1.425 @ 4.8 for over a year now. Delidded, max temps ~60.
> 
> Most of the reviews iv'e seen show ivy-e ~200mhz difference. So, 4.5 on a ivy is like 4.7 on a sandy. If this 3930k gives me nothing but trouble i'll be cashing in my OC warranty , & picking up a 4930k.


As for those primochill ones. They just unscrew like any other fitting and you pop the acrylic right out and pop it right back in. Its actually more difficult to change soft tubing sometimes. Since when screwing the fittings on to the soft sometimes gets on to tight and you cant get it off. As well as the barb part of the compression soft sometimes get stuck. It does take longer to make all the pieces when its acrylic. But once that's all done. Its pretty darn breezy to pop everything apart and put back together. The new primochill stuff actually takes less time than the E22 acrylic with the multi link fittings. Because you don't have to sand and polish every piece at the ends. Because the new stuff theirs a runner ring that seals further back on these. I have got good and quick at making them


----------



## Valice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> same as vanilla rive. you can find guides on frozencpu when you look @ the links.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sorry for asking, but to which rive board does the vanilla refer to? The only configuration tool I've found (from EK) doesn't list their bridges and my reseller of choice only states the 3-slot measurement to be 60.9 mm. With no visual indication I can't know for sure, or is this a standard for all / most motherboard pci-e lanes today?

If someone could just quickly check whether or not this bridge will work, I'd be eternally grateful!


----------



## saer

Pretty green about X79 myself but I've noticed everyone going with higher frequency ram sets that have higher timings and CAS latencies, as opposed to something with a slightly lower frequency like 2133 with tighter timings and lower CAS rate.

Why is this ? Is it all about higher frequencies these days with X79 ? Are timings and CAS no longer a point to consider ?


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> As for those primochill ones. They just unscrew like any other fitting and you pop the acrylic right out and pop it right back in. Its actually more difficult to change soft tubing sometimes. Since when screwing the fittings on to the soft sometimes gets on to tight and you cant get it off. As well as the barb part of the compression soft sometimes get stuck. It does take longer to make all the pieces when its acrylic. But once that's all done. Its pretty darn breezy to pop everything apart and put back together. The new primochill stuff actually takes less time than the E22 acrylic with the multi link fittings. Because you don't have to sand and polish every piece at the ends. Because the new stuff theirs a runner ring that seals further back on these. I have got good and quick at making them


I'm in the process of planing my acrylic plumbing and making sure I have several drain ports. Hopefully I can plan my loop so I can easily pop off the acrylic tubing to take things apart for maintenance. I think it would be a lot easier to do compared to than soft tubing. I'm a little anal about not reusing soft tubing... so it gets expensive when I take my loop apart and more work to cut new tubing to install. With acrylic tubing... I can reuse the tubing since it wouldn't stretch and change shape.

On a side, I took all the parts out of my 800D, and looking at my rads... I didn't do a very good job on maintenance... LOL. I'm surprise I had good temps with all the dust that accumulated. With everything out of the case... the 800D looks small. There was time when this case seemed huge.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valice*
> 
> Sorry for asking, but to which rive board does the vanilla refer to? The only configuration tool I've found (from EK) doesn't list their bridges and my reseller of choice only states the 3-slot measurement to be 60.9 mm. With no visual indication I can't know for sure, or is this a standard for all / most motherboard pci-e lanes today?
> 
> If someone could just quickly check whether or not this bridge will work, I'd be eternally grateful!


That's the z-77 format, so it likely will not work.

This is what you are looking for.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16964/ex-blc-1213/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Plexi_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_CSQ_Plexi.html?tl=g57c645s2062

Frozencpu has pictures for every bridge, so you should be able to match it up there.

/sigh.... Performance-PC failed me. They listed the proper dynatron as INSTOCK, then email me today (by the time the over night package should of been here) saying it's out of stock. Now I won't have one until first week of december. Got it off of ebay, for 10$ less though so that's a +

@OPTIX ONE I'm well aware of how acrylic works. It's not for me @ this point in time. Maybe later when i'm actually aiming for aesthetics. I already have the tubing & 500$ worth of fittings for this build.


----------



## Valice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's the z-77 format, so it likely will not work.
> 
> This is what you are looking for.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16964/ex-blc-1213/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Plexi_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_CSQ_Plexi.html?tl=g57c645s2062
> 
> Frozencpu has pictures for every bridge, so you should be able to match it up there.


So in that case the distance between each lane is 40.6mm. Given I want to use the x16 lanes, I will have to use a tri-fire bridge then. Do you happen to know if it's possible to blank the 'middle card' holes? Or is this a silly idea?


----------



## FiveEYZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valice*
> 
> So in that case the distance between each lane is 40.6mm. Given I want to use the x16 lanes, I will have to use a tri-fire bridge then. Do you happen to know if it's possible to blank the 'middle card' holes? Or is this a silly idea?


u want this one: EK-FC Terminal BLANK


----------



## TheDude26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats!
> You're at the top of the list Lol, you're like my our special VP we can't disregard you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there made it MORE apparent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah nice, I'll add that to the list, what Batch # do you have on your box for your chip?


Batch 3326B663


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Why is this ? Is it all about higher frequencies these days with X79 ? Are timings and CAS no longer a point to consider ?


If I bought ram, I'd buy 2133 MHz 9-11-10-27 @ 1.5V. Even that can be hard to achieve with some CPUs.

That said, the high-bin memory offers the greatest flexibility when it comes time to OC...you don't need to run the rated timings...

Every 2666 MHz set I have owned ran 2133 MHz 9-11-10-27 @ 1.5V, so that's a safe bet, and it has overhead for benching when that's needed.

I have also found that the 1866 divider is slower for memory write performance than 1600 MHz, so it's either 1600, 2133, or 2666 MHz for me, and what I end up using for 24/7 is all about a CPUs capability, and which provides the best results with the least amount of heat and voltage.


----------



## TheDude26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Dont get me wrong. I am all for the latest and greatest as well. But you just may want the 3930k for overclocking. It tends to do better. People are finding out. Its cheaper and the performance difference between both are minimal. But to each there own


I agree. I had a 3930k that hit 5ghz under 1.5v. I ran that sucker at 4.7 @ 1.45 rock solid 24/7. I miss that chip big time.

Curiosity got the best of me.


----------



## Valice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveEYZ*
> 
> u want this one: EK-FC Terminal BLANK


gotcha! thanks for the hint!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If I bought ram, I'd buy 2133 MHz 9-11-10-27 @ 1.5V. Even that can be hard to achieve with some CPUs.
> 
> That said, the high-bin memory offers the greatest flexibility when it comes time to OC...you don't need to run the rated timings...
> 
> Every 2666 MHz set I have owned ran 2133 MHz 9-11-10-27 @ 1.5V, so that's a safe bet, and it has overhead for benching when that's needed.
> 
> I have also found that the 1866 divider is slower for memory write performance than 1600 MHz, so it's either 1600, 2133, or 2666 MHz for me, and what I end up using for 24/7 is all about a CPUs capability, and which provides the best results with the least amount of heat and voltage.


So what would you recommend running the 2400's @ From G.Skill (Trident X's) I'm showing 10-12-12-31 but reviews/site states you can set to 9-11-11-28 w/o making changes. Should I downclock to 2133 @ 1.5 and set 9-10-10-27?


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I'm in the process of planing my acrylic plumbing and making sure I have several drain ports. Hopefully I can plan my loop so I can easily pop off the acrylic tubing to take things apart for maintenance. I think it would be a lot easier to do compared to than soft tubing. I'm a little anal about not reusing soft tubing... so it gets expensive when I take my loop apart and more work to cut new tubing to install. With acrylic tubing... I can reuse the tubing since it wouldn't stretch and change shape.
> 
> On a side, I took all the parts out of my 800D, and looking at my rads... I didn't do a very good job on maintenance... LOL. I'm surprise I had good temps with all the dust that accumulated. With everything out of the case... the 800D looks small. There was time when this case seemed huge.


Nice!







You only need one drain at the lowest point of your loop. I recommend one of these>>>>http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=33149

with this>>>http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_484&products_id=36816
(to go onto the valve above^^^^)

and this>>>http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_482&products_id=36811

(to go onto the drain tubing if you use some 1/2 / 3/4)

To each there own. But this is how i roll


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So what would you recommend running the 2400's @ From G.Skill (Trident X's) I'm showing 10-12-12-31 but reviews/site states you can set to 9-11-11-28 w/o making changes. Should I downclock to 2133 @ 1.5 and set 9-10-10-27?


The difference between 2400 and 2133 MHz is going to be about 3000-4000 MB/s overall, but to really find what's best, requires some math. Will 9-10-10 @ 2133 provide lower LATENCY than 10-12-12 @ 2400? I mean sure, overall bandwidth is higher, and over latency will be reported lower, but those figures and tests that give you such results tend to fully load up the memory controller, while most 24/7 use will not.

2133 MHz will be easier, overall, but even 1600 MHz provides enough bandwidth for most users...so the best I can recommend is get your rig set-up, do some testing, and if higher ram speeds has little to no affect on your PC usage, then don't bother with it. ASUS's guide for X79 clocking basically says the same, too, and I really have to agree with that sentiment.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You only need one drain at the lowest point of your loop. I recommend one of these>>>>http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=33149
> 
> with this>>>http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_484&products_id=36816
> (to go onto the valve above^^^^)
> 
> and this>>>http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_482&products_id=36811
> 
> (to go onto the drain tubing if you use some 1/2 / 3/4)
> 
> To each there own. But this is how i roll


Yeah... I bought a few valves, and I already have a couple of 1/2 - 3/4 Koolance QD's. I'm not sure if I'm going to use the QD's though. I might sell them with all my black bitspower 1/2 - 3/4 rotary compression fittings..


----------



## coolzizo

guys i want i know this is good reg because after one week i want buy it:

cpu: i7 4930K

m.b: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition

memory : Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3 2400 MHz (PC3-19200) Desktop Memory CMD32GX3M4A2400C10
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6JFWNA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

h.d: already have it Samsung 840 Pro 256Gb
the rest of the parts in my signature


----------



## LunaP

Ugh Heads or Tails!

Standard ATX or Reverse WHY IS THIS SO HARD.. My mouse is OVER the purchase button >.< !


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I don't know how much voltage you guys plan on putting your cpus through, but my first 3570k died from 1.35 v on a 24/7 4.7 ghz oc. I can't bring myself to exceed 1.45 on my 3930k for 24/7 and that only gets me to 4.6 ghz. I hope you have better luck than I did reaching for those high ocs.


I will not go above 1.35v on the 3930k. Probably could push 4.5 to 4.6 on that voltage. That is plenty for me. Heck i can push 4.2 on 1.255. Intel says over 1.35v and your degrading that chip. I am going to listen to the manufacture. I am not trying to degrade a $500.00 chip anytime soon. I know people run higher daily. But unless your pushing for a reason. Then i see no reason to do so. Its a frickin hex core processor!! What are you doing that you need push a hex chip hard for? For some serious overclockers with liquid N in competition or pushing the envelope for company references. I understand. But for a regular consumer. The guy that just does some gaming and video editing maybe some cad software and some 3d rendering. There really is no need. What you got stock with these chips are plenty. Unless your doing some serious craziness. Then i would stay at safe overclocks


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolzizo*
> 
> guys i want i know this is good reg because after one week i want buy it:
> 
> cpu: i7 4930K
> 
> m.b: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
> 
> memory : Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3 2400 MHz (PC3-19200) Desktop Memory CMD32GX3M4A2400C10
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6JFWNA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> 
> h.d: already have it Samsung 840 Pro 256Gb
> the rest of the parts in my signature


Looks good. Most people will tell u Corsair Dominator Platinum's overpriced like most Corsair gear. I'm probly goin with G.Skill Trident-X personally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ugh Heads or Tails!
> 
> Standard ATX or Reverse WHY IS THIS SO HARD.. My mouse is OVER the purchase button >.< !


I like horizontal personally


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ugh Heads or Tails!
> 
> Standard ATX or Reverse WHY IS THIS SO HARD.. My mouse is OVER the purchase button >.< !


Watercooling=Standard

Air cooling=Reverse


----------



## coolzizo

*Looks good. Most people will tell u Corsair Dominator Platinum's overpriced like most Corsair gear. I'm probly goin with G.Skill Trident-X personally
*
Thanks man i know many people tell me its over priced but no problem for that. the megahelms can handle the i7 4930k with overclock to 4.4 or 4.5 or not


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I like horizontal personally


Lol wut? Which one is that XD?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Watercooling=Standard
> 
> Air cooling=Reverse


Wait wut? It is?


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If I bought ram, I'd buy 2133 MHz 9-11-10-27 @ 1.5V. Even that can be hard to achieve with some CPUs.
> 
> That said, the high-bin memory offers the greatest flexibility when it comes time to OC...you don't need to run the rated timings...
> 
> Every 2666 MHz set I have owned ran 2133 MHz 9-11-10-27 @ 1.5V, so that's a safe bet, and it has overhead for benching when that's needed.
> 
> I have also found that the 1866 divider is slower for memory write performance than 1600 MHz, so it's either 1600, 2133, or 2666 MHz for me, and what I end up using for 24/7 is all about a CPUs capability, and which provides the best results with the least amount of heat and voltage.


I completely agree with you!!!!!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wait wut? It is?


Wouldn't want that writing on the i/o shield to be upside down now would we?


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Yeah... I bought a few valves, and I already have a couple of 1/2 - 3/4 Koolance QD's. I'm not sure if I'm going to use the QD's though. I might sell them with all my black bitspower 1/2 - 3/4 rotary compression fittings..


Ahhh yes... But they come in so handy to just leave that female QD3 on the drain tube and store it somewhere. If you spring a leak or want to drain fast (boooooooom!) Plug it in. Turn that valve. System drained!!!! In a matter of seconds! Saved more than a few watercooling junkies asses i know. Its no fun having $2000.00 in graphics cards sitting in water.


----------



## skupples

ohhhh boy, this is going to be fun! & I have to fit two of them in their! I'M NOT PULLING THOSE FANS NO WAY NO HOW. In seriousness though, right now I Was planning to pull air from the outside, that might be an issue. Blasting PSU's with heat? Eh, probably not a big deal since both will be no where close to full load.

(should of gone with a double wide !)


----------



## zucciniknife

Anyone here have any idea when newegg will be shipping their preorders? Bought one and they are saying they are waiting for stock.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Lol wut? Which one is that XD?
> Wait wut? It is?


Huh? No i am saying if your going to water cool. Go standard. If you are air cooling. Go reverse. Sorry if i said it in a confusing way


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> Anyone here have any idea when newegg will be shipping their preorders? Bought one and they are saying they are waiting for stock.


Seems they got hit allot harder than they, or Asus expected. Could be awhile. They shipped a SMALL amount out on the 25th, but I would guess they bit off more than they can chew with the pre-order business., From what I can tell, they are not giving out any dates @ this point.

I may have to store my second PSU externally.


----------



## jamiee

Alright I caved.... I just couldn't wait another week or two for the GTX 780 Ti Classified to come out, so I ordered
one of these instead... http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487003

I doubt it'll be here for the weekend due to the US thanksgiving holiday (unless it ships from the Toronto warehouse?),
but at least I can start my system build this weekend and know there's a gfx card on the way for it


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Ahhh yes... But they come in so handy to just leave that female QD3 on the drain tube and store it somewhere. If you spring a leak or want to drain fast (boooooooom!) Plug it in. Turn that valve. System drained!!!! In a matter of seconds! Saved more than a few watercooling junkies asses i know. Its no fun having $2000.00 in graphics cards sitting in water.


Couldn't I just have a 1/2 barb on the valve? Just slip on a piece of soft tubing on the barb, turn the valve... and should drain the same. The barb doesn't stand out as much as female QD... but I could see it as an extra stop to prevent leaking if the valve wasn't fully closed or accidentally turned.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Couldn't I just have a 1/2 barb on the valve? Just slip on a piece of soft tubing on the barb, turn the valve... and should drain the same. The barb doesn't stand out as much as female QD... but I could see it as an extra stop to prevent leaking if the valve wasn't fully closed or accidentally turned.


There you go Double protection (Valves fail) No different than any plumbing in the house. But yes you can do it your way. Would take a bit more time in the event of a emergency. But yes.The male threaded QD3 is what you would put into the valve. The female on the tube. The female is the bigger of the two.


----------



## szeged

still not in stock anywhere brb as i kill myself from boredom.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Seems they got hit allot harder than they, or Asus expected. Could be awhile. They shipped a SMALL amount out on the 25th, but I would guess they bit off more than they can chew with the pre-order business., From what I can tell, they are not giving out any dates @ this point.
> 
> I may have to store my second PSU externally.


As long as they will fit skupples they will not be enough heat from 2 of those rads to make a difference in the temps of the PSU's. I have seen lot of rigs done like that.. Main thing I have found is to make sure you have enough air flow. ex.. dont have 2 rads with intake if you do not have equal space to vent or exhaust the air..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> As long as they will fit skupples they will not be enough heat from 2 of those rads to make a difference in the temps of the PSU's. I have seen lot of rigs done like that.. Main thing I have found is to make sure you have enough air flow. ex.. dont have 2 rads with intake if you do not have equal space to vent or exhaust the air..


Well, I only have one rad going in the bottom, the rest of the space in the back will be for dual PSU. Looking like I may be short on space for fitting a 360 in the front, but I could probably solve it with some washers. Quick question... Can I have in flow & out flow on the same side of the rad?



I'm not using these rads, as they came out right after I made my purchase (wish I would of known they were coming out, I would of grabbed them simply because of the low profile shroud)

wiring is going to be a nightmare, definitely gave my self a big jump in difficulty with this build.


----------



## FiveEYZ

ETA in Sweden is moved from 2013-12-06 to 2013-12-20 now, and it is believed that it is the final date this time...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Well, I only have one rad going in the bottom, the rest of the space in the back will be for dual PSU. Looking like I may be short on space for fitting a 360 in the front, but I could probably solve it with some washers. Quick question... Can I have in flow & out flow on the same side of the rad?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not using these rads, as they came out right after I made my purchase (wish I would of known they were coming out, I would of grabbed them simply because of the low profile shroud)


That's how most are especially the SR-1's which is why I'm grabbing some UT-60's / Monsta's since htey have 6 ports so you can go in 1 end and out w/e other you want to have a more clean hidden loop if you want, and no they're not x-flow's it's the standed 2-phase.









Also Kevin just responded from Case Labs...gave great advice LOL but at the same time gave his vote as well xD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CL Kevin*
> Well... In my opinion, it doesn't really matter. Unless you are trying to break records, I wouldn't get too wrapped up the the debate over reverse or standard. Supposedly, a reverse format has some benefits in regards to your loop and cooling, but again I wouldn't get to wrapped up about it. The only other benefit is looks. The GPUs look better in reverse, and reverse cases are more rare, so there is a certain added level prestige to them.


----------



## skupples

This is going to be a fun build for sure. Definitely bit off a bit more than I can chew, so i'll just chew it slowly. Wiring is going to be the main issue. This 900D is getting real small real quick.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> This is going to be a fun build for sure. Definitely bit off a bit more than I can chew, so i'll just chew it slowly. Wiring is going to be the main issue. This 900D is getting real small real quick.


Shoulda gone for the budonkadonks~


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Shoulda gone for the budonkadonks~


Well, If I would of known this mobo release was going to end up this delayed, I would of definitely gone with a caselabs of some sort, & different rads. These EK rads take up allot of unnecessary space. I like these new low profile ones. These rads were literally the only 480 rads left in stock around the entire world @ the time of purchase.


----------



## LunaP

Sell your SFF ( as they keep referring to it now ) and wait longer ~

Doesn't thinner rads require more RPM's vs thick RAD's requiring less? There was a whole thing on it somewhere on OCN. I think in the 4x mm you can still get multiple ports just when you go to the final thinness you lose that ability.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> which blocks did you get? clear or acetyl? ive been waiting on more clears to come in stock


Acetyl, I never use clear anything. No reason to let light into a cooling loop, just provides energy for microorganism to survive.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sell your SFF ( as they keep referring to it now ) and wait longer ~
> 
> Doesn't thinner rads require more RPM's vs thick RAD's requiring less? There was a whole thing on it somewhere on OCN. I think in the 4x mm you can still get multiple ports just when you go to the final thinness you lose that ability.


=O 900D isn't small! It's just SKINNY. I would love a double wide 900D.

no no no... I have what I need to get it done. Just going to take some blood. Getting everything in is the easy part, tubing & wiring will be the hurt.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Acetyl, I never use clear anything. No reason to let light into a cooling loop, just provides energy for microorganism to survive.


are you saying im short?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Well, I only have one rad going in the bottom, the rest of the space in the back will be for dual PSU. Looking like I may be short on space for fitting a 360 in the front, but I could probably solve it with some washers. Quick question... Can I have in flow & out flow on the same side of the rad?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not using these rads, as they came out right after I made my purchase (wish I would of known they were coming out, I would of grabbed them simply because of the low profile shroud)


the way you have it drawn is the correct way.. you don't have to take from opposite sides of the rad...just one from one side and one from the other side...

hope you understand what I am trying to say!!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sell your SFF ( as they keep referring to it now ) and wait longer ~
> 
> Doesn't thinner rads require more RPM's vs thick RAD's requiring less? There was a whole thing on it somewhere on OCN. I think in the 4x mm you can still get multiple ports just when you go to the final thinness you lose that ability.


thinner rads dont always perform worse than thicker rads, some rads that were designed specifically to be thin with optimized fin arrays + lower rpm fans actually out perform some of the 60mm+ rads









i usually go thinner rad because theyre cheaper and perform within 1 to 2c of thicker rads. and if done correctly, are actually better. push/pull with low rpm in my system beat out monsta rads with just push, i tested it a bit before selling my monsta lol.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Lol wut? Which one is that XD?
> Wait wut? It is?
> 
> 
> 
> Huh? No i am saying if your going to water cool. Go standard. If you are air cooling. Go reverse. Sorry if i said it in a confusing way
Click to expand...

well actually I think reverse is great for watercooling also because you get to see your gpu blocks. Especially if you get acryllic versions with some nice colored coolant. it's a shame to spend so much on blocks and never get to see them. that's a main reason I would go with reverse.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> =O 900D isn't small! It's just SKINNY. I would love a double wide 900D.
> 
> no no no... I have what I need to get it done. Just going to take some blood. Getting everything in is the easy part, tubing & wiring will be the hurt.


lol I kid, though if you went double wide would you go reverse or standard?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thinner rads dont always perform worse than thicker rads, some rads that were designed specifically to be thin with optimized fin arrays + lower rpm fans actually out perform some of the 60mm+ rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i usually go thinner rad because theyre cheaper and perform within 1 to 2c of thicker rads. and if done correctly, are actually better. push/pull with low rpm in my system beat out monsta rads with just push, i tested it a bit before selling my monsta lol.


Can you show me some multi input ones then? Originally I was talked into the SR-1's and yeah I'm for them but they only have 2 ports on the same side = routing

UT-60's however have 6 so I can do in the mouth and out the butt type sort lol.

Based on those 2 what would you recommend performance wise. I don't think I'm going to go w/ AP-15's so it'll either be Cougars or my SP-120's

Edit HOLY CRAP ROFL
Quote:


> Will Call (Local Pick-up) $0.00
> FedEx (FedEx Ground) $43.11
> FedEx (FedEx 2 Day) $93.61
> FedEx (Standard Overnight) $253.06


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> lol I kid, though if you went double wide would you go reverse or standard?
> Can you show me some multi input ones then? Originally I was talked into the SR-1's and yeah I'm for them but they only have 2 ports on the same side = routing
> 
> UT-60's however have 6 so I can do in the mouth and out the butt type sort lol.
> 
> Based on those 2 what would you recommend performance wise. I don't think I'm going to go w/ AP-15's so it'll either be Cougars or my SP-120's
> 
> Edit HOLY CRAP ROFL


out of those two id go with the UT60 personally. i dont know of many thin rads with more than 2 maybe 3 ports, i think XSPC released a thin rad with some extra ports, might want to check those.


----------



## LunaP

Since I'm in AZ and it's shipping from CALI, Fed Ex ground shipping should be just as fast as 2 day right?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Since I'm in AZ and it's shipping from CALI, Fed Ex ground shipping should be just as fast as 2 day right?


the th10?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the th10?


yup


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> yup


should be there in like 2 days then lol. unless the driver was....held up by a certain disgruntled enthusiast looking for leverage to get a RIVE-BE.


----------



## zucciniknife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Seems they got hit allot harder than they, or Asus expected. Could be awhile. They shipped a SMALL amount out on the 25th, but I would guess they bit off more than they can chew with the pre-order business., From what I can tell, they are not giving out any dates @ this point.
> 
> I may have to store my second PSU externally.


Yeah, I'm good as long as I get mine by the 15th of December. That's when I'm building.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Lol wut? Which one is that XD?


I'm building in a HAF XB. Horizontal mobo tray facing up








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I only have one rad going in the bottom, the rest of the space in the back will be for dual PSU. Looking like I may be short on space for fitting a 360 in the front, but I could probably solve it with some washers. Quick question... Can I have in flow & out flow on the same side of the rad?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not using these rads, as they came out right after I made my purchase (wish I would of known they were coming out, I would of grabbed them simply because of the low profile shroud)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> wiring is going to be a nightmare, definitely gave my self a big jump in difficulty with this build.


Yeah I'm thinkin of switching my EX360 for one of those even though i just bought it and don't even have it mounted yet


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm building in a HAF XB. Horizontal mobo tray facing up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I'm thinkin of switching my EX360 for one of those even though i just bought it and don't even have it mounted yet


the ex360 is awesome with low rpm fans in push/pull or even just push







keeps my 5ghz 4770k nice n cool


----------



## LunaP

Ahh nice, I'm going 480's x4 so looking for the best setup, may grab a 360 as well.

FINALLY I can start planning !


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the ex360 is awesome with low rpm fans in push/pull or even just push
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> keeps my 5ghz 4770k nice n cool


Hrmmmm. Maybe i'll just keep it then. I ordered the EX360 cuz it's only like 395.5mm long or something like that, and would fit between my front panel clips. But i had to cut off 2 of the clips anyway cuz it wouldn't fit centered between them cuz of the end tank. So cutting the clips gave me more options and i wuz thinking a 360 PE might be an upgrade.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Watercooling=Standard
> 
> Air cooling=Reverse


Really? Please explain. The only reason why I went reverse was because I found a cheap used Caselabs M8 for half the price of a new one.



Excuse my messy build, but it works


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hrmmmm. Maybe i'll just keep it then. I ordered the EX360 cuz it's only like 395.5mm long or something like that, and would fit between my front panel clips. But i had to cut off 2 of the clips anyway cuz it wouldn't fit centered between them cuz of the end tank. So cutting the clips gave me more options and i wuz thinking a 360 PE might be an upgrade.


at least give it a try imo







when i first got my EX rads i was like "hmm this is gonna suck since they were so cheap theyll probably be low quality" i was surprised though, ill be buying only EX rads when i need slim rads from now on, xspc must have put a lot of time into getting their fin array just right with low rpm fans, silent fans + good performance = win in my book. only thing i dont like about the EX rads is the finish they put on them, feels like fingernails on chalkboard when holding them


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> at least give it a try imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when i first got my EX rads i was like "hmm this is gonna suck since they were so cheap theyll probably be low quality" i was surprised though, ill be buying only EX rads when i need slim rads from now on, xspc must have put a lot of time into getting their fin array just right with low rpm fans, silent fans + good performance = win in my book. only thing i dont like about the EX rads is the finish they put on them, feels like fingernails on chalkboard when holding them


My two SR-1 480s are on ebay currently. I'm debating if I should keep them or go with two monsta 480s.

Wow, some guy just undercut me by a few cents.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> My two SR-1 480s are on ebay currently. I'm debating if I should keep them or go with two monsta 480s.


depends on what you want, quiet computer? sr-1's were designed for low rpm.

try low rpm on a monsta and youre gonna have a bad time.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> at least give it a try imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when i first got my EX rads i was like "hmm this is gonna suck since they were so cheap theyll probably be low quality" i was surprised though, ill be buying only EX rads when i need slim rads from now on, xspc must have put a lot of time into getting their fin array just right with low rpm fans, silent fans + good performance = win in my book. only thing i dont like about the EX rads is the finish they put on them, feels like fingernails on chalkboard when holding them


Agreed about the fingernails on a chalkboard. As far as the quality tho, mine came BNIB with more screwed up fins than good ones. That SUCKS with split fin rads. I probly spent a cpl hours on it and I'm still worried about it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> My two SR-1 480s are on ebay currently. I'm debating if I should keep them or go with two monsta 480s.
> 
> Wow, some guy just undercut me by a few cents.


I'd probly go with 2 UT60's. Monsta's are great if you can fit em, UT60's seem to perform better in alot of comparisons tho


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> depends on what you want, quiet computer? sr-1's were designed for low rpm.
> 
> try low rpm on a monsta and youre gonna have a bad time.


Well I'm not really going for quiet or loud. Most likely 1000-1450rpm on the Sr-1s and 1850 on the monsta. This other guy on ebay seems like a liar, he says mint condition and is selling it for less than $120. Then he mentions no returns. I'm only selling it for $120 because I want to get rid of them fast to order other parts.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Well I'm not really going for quiet or loud. Most likely 1000-1450rpm on the Sr-1s and 1850 on the monsta. This other guy on ebay seems like a liar, he says mint condition and is selling it for less than $120. Then he mentions no returns. I'm only selling it for $120 because I want to get rid of them fast to order other parts.


i looked at both of your guys ads on ebay, if i was in the market for more rads id definitely grab yours over his, his looks opened and possibly banged up lol


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i looked at both of your guys ads on ebay, if i was in the market for more rads id definitely grab yours over his, his looks opened and possibly banged up lol


Well they don't come sealed, just like the RIVBE. But if you look closely, it looks like fans were mounted on his rad. Maybe it's just his $50 camera though


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Well they don't come sealed, just like the RIVBE. But if you look closely, it looks like fans were mounted on his rad. Maybe it's just his $50 camera though


yeah lol, might just be a bad set up for taking pics lol


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah lol, might just be a bad set up for taking pics lol


I might just keep them, the finish is quite amazing, and would match the quality of this board. Low speed fans never hurt either. I'm losing about $67 in total by selling them. The 54mm thickness just looks so tiny in the TH10. Monsta is around 86mm.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Really? Please explain. The only reason why I went reverse was because I found a cheap used Caselabs M8 for half the price of a new one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse my messy build, but it works


Hot air rises. Simple to explain. That is the exact reason why the reverse trays were born. For the hot graphics cards to be towards the top of the case. This is why i say on air i would go reverse and on water i would go standard. I do see the point with water to see your waterblocks on your graphics cards though. But in all reality most cases you don't get to see them as great as you would think. Merely because the cards are all at the top right of the case. Tucked up higher on some of the bigger cases. But hey uno if you change your mind. Caselabs always offers separate trays you can change it up down the road if you don't like it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I might just keep them, the finish is quite amazing, and would match the quality of this board. Low speed fans never hurt either. I'm losing about $67 in total by selling them. The 54mm thickness just looks so tiny in the TH10. Monsta is around 86mm.


id honestly stick with them, the performance of the monsta isnt that much better especially if you plan on using 1450 or so rpms. Which fans will you have? ap-14s?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> id honestly stick with them, the performance of the monsta isnt that much better especially if you plan on using 1450 or so rpms. Which fans will you have? ap-14s?


I had ap-14s before, sold them like a fool. If I keep the sr1s, I might go ap-14s again lol, or maybe sp120s. I don't think ap-15s would do much on the sr1


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> This is going to be a fun build for sure. Definitely bit off a bit more than I can chew, so i'll just chew it slowly. Wiring is going to be the main issue. This 900D is getting real small real quick.


Thats why I stuck with my Corsair Air 540. ( I originally wanted the 900D, And bought an H100i on newegg for 89.99 kept me from spending all that money on a full watercooling system.








Looks like we both are getting into something completely new!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I had ap-14s before, sold them like a fool. If I keep the sr1s, I might go ap-14s again lol, or maybe sp120s. I don't think ap-15s would do much on the sr1


the sp120 quiet editions are awesome fans, good amount of air movement through rads, and they are actually really quiet. when i was putting this rig together i accidentally threw a high performance sp120 into my box of parts and installed it on one of my rads, its loud by comparison lol, i need to figure out which one it is so i can switch it out for a quiet edition







the only problem with them are they are so expensive compared to other high quality fans. the XSPC xinruilian fans are actually insanely good and insanely cheap. 6.95 usd for them, comes with pre sleeved cables 45cm long so theyre good for big cases. the 1650rpm ones move some good air, but are too noisy for me (think ap-15s without any fan control)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> at least give it a try imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when i first got my EX rads i was like "hmm this is gonna suck since they were so cheap theyll probably be low quality" i was surprised though, ill be buying only EX rads when i need slim rads from now on, xspc must have put a lot of time into getting their fin array just right with low rpm fans, silent fans + good performance = win in my book. only thing i dont like about the EX rads is the finish they put on them, feels like fingernails on chalkboard when holding them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My two SR-1 480s are on ebay currently. I'm debating if I should keep them or go with two monsta 480s.
> 
> Wow, some guy just undercut me by a few cents.
Click to expand...

I've currently got 3 Alphacool rads in builds, 1 monsta, 1 UT60 and 1 XT45.

None of them have what I would consider particularly good build quality or finish.

I have multiple HW Labs rads, and for quality and finish, they are top shelf.

One of the issues with the HWL rads is that they are a bit wider because of the shape of the sides than the Alphacool rads, which depending on the space available, could be an issue.

The monsta really needs P-P fans to make use of its extra thickness.

If space is a concern, the HWL would be a lot better if there's only room for 1 set of fans.

Overall, I'd probably keep the SR 1's, as they are a lot more flexible to work with.

Darlene


----------



## saer

Gonna be shoe-horning two 480 monstas in my 900D, dual loops one for cpu/mobo & one for gpu's


----------



## szeged

im hoping to pick up some cheap 480 sr-1's since ive managed to ding up my xspc ones so badly lol, id buy them new but if i can find them used that would be best lol prices on new ones are a bit high imo.


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im hoping to pick up some cheap 480 sr-1's since ive managed to ding up my xspc ones so badly lol, id buy them new but if i can find them used that would be best lol prices on new ones are a bit high imo.


Could sell you the XSPC RX480 that I removed from the top of my HAF X, its from my Skynet build which I just finished tearing down last night


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Could sell you the XSPC RX480 that I removed from the top of my HAF X, its from my Skynet build which I just finished tearing down last night


Not trying to be rude but the idea behind the PSU cover is to hide the cables not choke the PSU


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Not trying to be rude but the idea behind the PSU cover is to hide the cables not choke the PSU


Obviously









I didn't have any room for it to slide over and cover the cables, and my PSU was pulling air in from the bottom so the cover wasn't obstructing any airflow to the PSU. So I slid it over the top to keep the solid black theme going


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Thats why I stuck with my Corsair Air 540. ( I originally wanted the 900D, And bought an H100i on newegg for 89.99 kept me from spending all that money on a full watercooling system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like we both are getting into something completely new!


Iv'e only ever used two rads in a build before, but I REALLY wanna squeeze this 360 in the front. So, that combined with the dual PSU = PAIN IN THE ARSE.

The Ex coolstream 480's shrouds are MONSTROUS, the nipples on the end are just so big. i mean, geeeesh. Too bad every radiator known to man was sold out besides these when I placed the order.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> id honestly stick with them, the performance of the monsta isnt that much better especially if you plan on using 1450 or so rpms. Which fans will you have? ap-14s?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've currently got 3 Alphacool rads in builds, 1 monsta, 1 UT60 and 1 XT45.
> 
> None of them have what I would consider particularly good build quality or finish.
> 
> I have multiple HW Labs rads, and for quality and finish, they are top shelf.
> 
> One of the issues with the HWL rads is that they are a bit wider because of the shape of the sides than the Alphacool rads, which depending on the space available, could be an issue.
> 
> The monsta really needs P-P fans to make use of its extra thickness.
> 
> If space is a concern, the HWL would be a lot better if there's only room for 1 set of fans.
> 
> Overall, I'd probably keep the SR 1's, as they are a lot more flexible to work with.
> 
> Darlene


You win, I'll keep them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the sp120 quiet editions are awesome fans, good amount of air movement through rads, and they are actually really quiet. when i was putting this rig together i accidentally threw a high performance sp120 into my box of parts and installed it on one of my rads, its loud by comparison lol, i need to figure out which one it is so i can switch it out for a quiet edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the only problem with them are they are so expensive compared to other high quality fans. the XSPC xinruilian fans are actually insanely good and insanely cheap. 6.95 usd for them, comes with pre sleeved cables 45cm long so theyre good for big cases. the 1650rpm ones move some good air, but are too noisy for me (think ap-15s without any fan control)


The 2 pack sp120 are actually cheaper than 2 GT's. I might just pick up the sp120 QE, the red ring should match with the other red accents in my build. Or maybe I'll just go pure black and white and use the white ring.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Iv'e only ever used two rads in a build before, but I REALLY wanna squeeze this 360 in the front. So, that combined with the dual PSU = PAIN IN THE ARSE.
> 
> The Ex coolstream 480's shrouds are MONSTROUS, the nipples on the end are just so big. i mean, geeeesh. Too bad every radiator known to man was sold out besides these when I placed the order.


good luck getting a 360 in the front of a 900D if youre using a thicker than 30mm 480 in the bottom







one of the major flaws of the 900D right there.

Im working on a removable motherboard tray mod for the 900D, might try to find a way to get a 480 up front too, its probably been done before and i just havent looked hard enough lol.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the sp120 quiet editions are awesome fans, good amount of air movement through rads, and they are actually really quiet. when i was putting this rig together i accidentally threw a high performance sp120 into my box of parts and installed it on one of my rads, its loud by comparison lol, i need to figure out which one it is so i can switch it out for a quiet edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the only problem with them are they are so expensive compared to other high quality fans. the XSPC xinruilian fans are actually insanely good and insanely cheap. 6.95 usd for them, comes with pre sleeved cables 45cm long so theyre good for big cases. the 1650rpm ones move some good air, but are too noisy for me (think ap-15s without any fan control)


I have 21 corsair sp120 high performance fans in my rig. Great fans! On all my rads! Have 2 fan controllers running them. They can be turned down to quiet operation level. But its nice to be able to crank them all up when i want.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> I have 21 corsair sp120 high performance fans in my rig. Great fans! On all my rads! Have 2 fan controllers running them. They can be turned down to quiet operation level. But its nice to be able to crank them all up when i want.


i would have gone with HP ones, but i didnt have a fan controller planned for this build lol.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i would have gone with HP ones, but i didnt have a fan controller planned for this build lol.


I understand Yeah that's all the quiet edition are. Less voltage running through. Less rpms.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Acetyl, I never use clear anything. No reason to let light into a cooling loop, just provides energy for microorganism to survive.


I would not worry about this that much unless you plan to sun bath with your computer. With all the additives in coolant or you can add them yourself. You will be fine. If you really do not want anything in your loop for sure. Slap a uv light in there with some clear tubing and blocks. There using this to stop algae and microorganisms in swimming pools these days. The water runs under uv lights. Kills everything and i mean everything! Even the chlorine!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> good luck getting a 360 in the front of a 900D if youre using a thicker than 30mm 480 in the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one of the major flaws of the 900D right there.
> 
> Im working on a removable motherboard tray mod for the 900D, might try to find a way to get a 480 up front too, its probably been done before and i just havent looked hard enough lol.


Should be fine, I have a 60mm thick down there... I may have to use 1/4 inch spacers, but it should work. Just no fans on the bottom 120. Will likely have to route from the top of the rad though.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> I would not worry about this that much unless you plan to sun bath with your computer. With all the additives in coolant or you can add them yourself. You will be fine. If you really do not want anything in your loop for sure. Slap a uv light in there with some clear tubing and blocks. There using this to stop algae and microorganisms in swimming pools these days. The water runs under uv lights. Kills everything and i mean everything! Even the chlorine!


We have been using uv units for aquariums for a long time.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> We have been using uv units for aquariums for a long time.


I know right. Now they are using led lights though. But there still making uv units for aquariums for the water to run through. Well now the new thing is for swimming pools. So why not are computers i say.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> I know right. Now they are using led lights though. But there still making uv units for aquariums for the water to run through. Well now the new thing is for swimming pools. So why not are computers i say.


Yeah, I built my own LED lights for my tank and my coral loves them and look good too. Plus 50,000 hour life before slight dimming and you need to slightly turn them up.LOL.

After you mentioned it I got to wandering if an aquarium UV sterilizer could work with a computer loop.


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Should be fine, I have a 60mm thick down there... I may have to use 1/4 inch spacers, but it should work. Just no fans on the bottom 120. Will likely have to route from the top of the rad though.


I had to remove the bottom (of the 3) front fan mounts to get my XT45 in the bottom. That's how tight it is for me. Maybe could keep the mount in if I turn the rad in/outputs to the back of the case. Either way, with what i want to do, I don't think I could get a 360 in the front. But I've seen builds with it in there, so must be possible.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ugh Heads or Tails!
> 
> Standard ATX or Reverse WHY IS THIS SO HARD.. My mouse is OVER the purchase button >.< !
> 
> 
> 
> Watercooling=Standard
> 
> Air cooling=Reverse
Click to expand...

i would 100% disagree. it is all personal taste
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Really? Please explain. The only reason why I went reverse was because I found a cheap used Caselabs M8 for half the price of a new one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse my messy build, but it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hot air rises. Simple to explain. That is the exact reason why the reverse trays were born. For the hot graphics cards to be towards the top of the case. This is why i say on air i would go reverse and on water i would go standard. I do see the point with water to see your waterblocks on your graphics cards though. But in all reality most cases you don't get to see them as great as you would think. Merely because the cards are all at the top right of the case. Tucked up higher on some of the bigger cases. But hey uno if you change your mind. Caselabs always offers separate trays you can change it up down the road if you don't like it.
Click to expand...

you are right hot air rises, however this is completely false in pc cases. in pcs air, hot or cold, goes where ever you push it to with a fan, as i said earlier the only + for reverse is if you were using 100% passive heatsinks
with gpus, if you are using multiple gpus you cant see them as well. but 1 or 2 you can see them just fine ( assuming #2 is in 6th slot ( double spacing )

last you can not change standard or reverse just by swapping out the try, esp with the M8, the whole case is backwards. ( motherboard is on the left vs it being on the right side with standard ) without buying a whole new frame ( to my knowledge he does not sell parts of the frame with these, i know several models are like this but iirc {and i could be wrong} all the double wide case frame are riveted while the single wide are screwed together )


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> I had to remove the bottom (of the 3) front fan mounts to get my XT45 in the bottom. That's how tight it is for me. Maybe could keep the mount in if I turn the rad in/outputs to the back of the case. Either way, with what i want to do, I don't think I could get a 360 in the front. But I've seen builds with it in there, so must be possible.


ohhh. I took the back of the case off for easy access.


----------



## Mega Man

w000000t it shipped !!! ( at least my email says so )


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Don't know if the 4930k is going to drop. But the 3930k definitely did. Not bad>>>>>http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-3930K-Hexa-Core-Processor-Cache/dp/B00603QXPM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1385562817&sr=8-2&keywords=intel+4930k
> 
> New egg still got the 3930k for $569.00 on there site when amazon selling for this^^^^^ wow


Looks like Newegg took a hint and matched that price for the 3930k ...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116492

That said, I'm not looking for a 3930K. Was really hoping someone, anyone, here knew how to score a discount on a 4930k, especially after szeged wrote that he "can always find one for $30 to $50 off".


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks like Newegg took a hint and matched that price for the 3930k ...
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116492
> 
> That said, I'm not looking for a 3930K. Was really hoping someone, anyone, here knew how to score a discount on a 4930k, especially after szeged wrote that he "can always find one for $30 to $50 off".


Yeah I'm most definitely on the lookout for any kind of discount on a 4930k too =\

Amazon:
Intel i7-4930K LGA 2011 64 Technology Extended Memory CPU Processors BX80633I74930K
by Intel
7 customer reviews
List Price: $743.15
Price: $579.99 & FREE Shipping. Details
You Save: $163.16 (22%)


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would 100% disagree. it is all personal taste
> you are right hot air rises, however this is completely false in pc cases. in pcs air, hot or cold, goes where ever you push it to with a fan, as i said earlier the only + for reverse is if you were using 100% passive heatsinks
> with gpus, if you are using multiple gpus you cant see them as well. but 1 or 2 you can see them just fine ( assuming #2 is in 6th slot ( double spacing )
> 
> last you can not change standard or reverse just by swapping out the try, esp with the M8, the whole case is backwards. ( motherboard is on the left vs it being on the right side with standard ) without buying a whole new frame ( to my knowledge he does not sell parts of the frame with these, i know several models are like this but iirc {and i could be wrong} all the double wide case frame are riveted while the single wide are screwed together )


Exactly and the fans push the hot air out of the top! You really think they made a reverse mother board tray just for looks?(For personal taste as you say)) You think they said hmmm this looks great lets flip the mobo over upside down for no purpose? This is clear as day. Not rocket science there. Its for hot air rising off your graphics cards and out of your build easier. With sure some fans pushing out on top.(But heat will leave the case better without fans on top as well in that config)You might be right about some cases not able to swap easy. But i have seen ones i think that are swappable i recall.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah I'm most definitely on the lookout for any kind of discount on a 4930k too =\
> 
> Amazon:
> Intel i7-4930K LGA 2011 64 Technology Extended Memory CPU Processors BX80633I74930K
> by Intel
> 7 customer reviews
> List Price: $743.15
> Price: $579.99 & FREE Shipping. Details
> You Save: $163.16 (22%)


That's holiday season pricing for you! Ignorant people buying presents for people think they are getting a deal when they see stuff like that..

I wonder if that Amazon price is black friday deal, or the new price. That's how much I payed for this used one under OC warranty.


----------



## szeged

yeah i was laughing at the " you save $163" on the 4930k, they actually had that under their black friday deals i almost choked on my drink when i saw it.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks like Newegg took a hint and matched that price for the 3930k ...
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116492
> 
> That said, I'm not looking for a 3930K. Was really hoping someone, anyone, here knew how to score a discount on a 4930k, especially after szeged wrote that he "can always find one for $30 to $50 off".


If i didn't have that chip already. I would jump all over that before it gets marked back up to $569.00. But i can understand wanting the 4930k as well. I guarantee the 4930 is not budging.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Yeah, I built my own LED lights for my tank and my coral loves them and look good too. Plus 50,000 hour life before slight dimming and you need to slightly turn them up.LOL.
> 
> After you mentioned it I got to wandering if an aquarium UV sterilizer could work with a computer loop.


I have always wondered and considered putting a design together for something like this as well. Seems logical right


----------



## kpoeticg

You guys think there'll be better component deals Now through the Weekend, or Monday?


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You guys think there'll be better component deals Now through the Weekend, or Monday?


Oh yeah for sure! But i don't see the 4930k moving anytime soon though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You guys think there'll be better component deals Now through the Weekend, or Monday?


I think right now is pretty much the worst time of the year to buy components. High end stuff tends to go up in price, instead of down. Though, mid range things like HDD's & SSD's can be had for pretty cheep if you find the right place. The local compusa/tigerdirect/fry's/mums should be running deals on both SSD & HDD.


----------



## kpoeticg

I phrased that wrong. You guys think Cyber Monday deals will be worth not jumping on Black Friday deals?

HDD's/SSD's/RAM etc...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I phrased that wrong. You guys think Cyber Monday deals will be worth not jumping on Black Friday deals?
> 
> HDD's/SSD's/RAM etc...


No, probably not. Cyber monday is an even bigger scam than black friday, & it gets even worse after christmas due to all the gift card onslaught markups... I worked in retail for a season a few years ago. Stores most definitely mark stuff up AFTER xmas so that people get less for there gift card money.

The best deals on storage will definitely be @ brick & mortar stores friday.


----------



## LunaP

Going over my cooling solution, this way there's hardly any cabling showing.


----------



## Mega Man

as pointed out in the CL thread i have to concede one point, reverse also allows for a slightly bigger rad placement
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would 100% disagree. it is all personal taste
> you are right hot air rises, however this is completely false in pc cases. in pcs air, hot or cold, goes where ever you push it to with a fan, as i said earlier the only + for reverse is if you were using 100% passive heatsinks
> with gpus, if you are using multiple gpus you cant see them as well. but 1 or 2 you can see them just fine ( assuming #2 is in 6th slot ( double spacing )
> 
> last you can not change standard or reverse just by swapping out the try, esp with the M8, the whole case is backwards. ( motherboard is on the left vs it being on the right side with standard ) without buying a whole new frame ( to my knowledge he does not sell parts of the frame with these, i know several models are like this but iirc {and i could be wrong} all the double wide case frame are riveted while the single wide are screwed together )
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly and the fans push the hot air out of the top! You really think they made a reverse mother board tray just for looks?(For personal taste as you say)) You think they said hmmm this looks great lets flip the mobo over upside down for no purpose? This is clear as day. Not rocket science there. Its for hot air rising off your graphics cards and out of your build easier. With sure some fans pushing out on top.(But heat will leave the case better without fans on top as well in that config)You might be right about some cases not able to swap easy. But i have seen ones i think that are swappable i recall.
Click to expand...

if you have heat rising off of anything you have poor airflow in your case. you should only have heat being expelled from your case. never rising in it


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks like Newegg took a hint and matched that price for the 3930k ...
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116492
> 
> That said, I'm not looking for a 3930K. Was really hoping someone, anyone, here knew how to score a discount on a 4930k, especially after szeged wrote that he "can always find one for $30 to $50 off".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah I'm most definitely on the lookout for any kind of discount on a 4930k too =\
> 
> Amazon:
> Intel i7-4930K LGA 2011 64 Technology Extended Memory CPU Processors BX80633I74930K
> by Intel
> 7 customer reviews
> List Price: $743.15
> Price: $579.99 & FREE Shipping. Details
> You Save: $163.16 (22%)


The 4930k often goes down to $559 on both Amazon and Newegg. I know it isn't much but $20 on every part adds up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's holiday season pricing for you! Ignorant people buying presents for people think they are getting a deal when they see stuff like that..
> 
> I wonder if that Amazon price is black friday deal, or the new price. That's how much I payed for this used one under OC warranty.


I and lots of others know the prices of all the items like the back of our hand, so we won't get screwed


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Yeah, I built my own LED lights for my tank and my coral loves them and look good too. Plus 50,000 hour life before slight dimming and you need to slightly turn them up.LOL.
> 
> After you mentioned it I got to wandering if an aquarium UV sterilizer could work with a computer loop.
> 
> 
> 
> I have always wondered and considered putting a design together for something like this as well. Seems logical right
Click to expand...

Not-so-much ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1441316/uv-light-for-keeping-bacteria-at-bay/0_20


----------



## skupples

NewEgg is pushing some pretty good ram deals right now...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231689


----------



## doctakedooty

I am trying to go back to a 3930K mainly because I had intended to go black edition but wife has put her foot down on me buying new parts to replace other parts when I haven't finished what I have now.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> NewEgg is pushing some pretty good ram deals right now...
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231689


Yes good ram deals. I got these they are on the QVL. Darn good price. Hope they work out well.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as pointed out in the CL thread i have to concede one point, reverse also allows for a slightly bigger rad placement
> if you have heat rising off of anything you have poor airflow in your case. you should only have heat being expelled from your case. never rising in it


Heat is rising in your case. Regardless if theirs fans on it or not. You can blow it with your fan. But its still rising! Rising Rising Rising! Reverse motherboard is not for looks. It may allow for bigger rads in some cases. But most likely depends on the size of the case that allows for bigger rads.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not-so-much ...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1441316/uv-light-for-keeping-bacteria-at-bay/0_20


I didn't get the point? Bunch of guys arguing if uv light works. We know it works already. Its a proven fact! Just trying to see if there's a certain way to apply it more efficiently within a computer build. In other words at the speeds of your water flow vs how much light concentrated in a certain area you would need. All the small variables and so forth. Thats all.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Heat is rising in your case. Regardless if theirs fans on it or not. You can blow it with your fan. But its still rising! Rising Rising Rising! Reverse motherboard is not for looks. It may allow for bigger rads in some cases. But most likely depends on the size of the case that allows for bigger rads.
> I didn't get the point? Bunch of guys arguing if uv light works. We know it works already. Its a proven fact! Just trying to see if there's a certain way to apply it more efficiently within a computer build. In other words at the speeds of your water flow vs how much light concentrated in a certain area you would need. All the small variables and so forth. Thats all.


The point of that thread is that a 10$ kill coil> UV death lamps. The only viable place to put it would be inside a res. It would likely not be sufficient to do all the killing on it's own, & would cost quite a bit more. So in the end, while it may work, it likely wont work well, so might as well just go with the kill coil.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> [...] I didn't get the point? Bunch of guys arguing if uv light works. We know it works already. Its a proven fact! Just trying to see if there's a certain way to apply it more efficiently within a computer build. In other words at the speeds of your water flow vs how much light concentrated in a certain area you would need. All the small variables and so forth. Thats all.


You don't get that a UV-C spectrum light (other types of UV lights do not kill bacteria) cost a lot (over the long run costs something like 100x more than a biological control like PT_NUKE) and adds quite a bit of heat, so it's not that it won't work, it's that it would be sorta stupid to even try.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You don't get that a UV-C spectrum light (other types of UV lights do not kill bacteria) cost a lot (over the long run costs something like 100x more than a biological control like PT_NUKE) and adds quite a bit of heat, so it's not that it won't work, it's that it would be sorta stupid to even try.


I guess if he went with all clear acrylic blocks, & massive tube res it may work properly... IDK though, normally in an aquarium they have direct contact with the water. They don't shine through much of anything, besides maybe a think piece of plexi.

Unless the tech has changed drastically since the last time I built an aquarium, they don't come in LED size.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You don't get that a UV-C spectrum light (other types of UV lights do not kill bacteria) cost a lot (over the long run costs something like 100x more than a biological control like PT_NUKE) and adds quite a bit of heat, so it's not that it won't work, it's that it would be sorta stupid to even try.


Sure but a kill coil and pt-nuke doesn't always live up to its expectation either. I have heard of problems with blocks and kill coils causing metal reactions. The pt-nuke not working. This can work. Maybe not the best cost wise and efficient yet. But it is possible in the future. Look at led bulbs don't get hot. I know these are not leds Never thought of the heat problem though.Yikes! Are we talking just added heat from the bulb or heating up the water as well? Well i know its a shot in the dark and maybe something interesting at the very least.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I guess if he went with all clear acrylic blocks, & massive tube res it may work properly... IDK though, normally in an aquarium they have direct contact with the water. They don't shine through much of anything, besides maybe a think piece of plexi.


Yeah, but, the main issue is UV-C lights get very hot, and they cost a lot - both initially and to maintain - you cannot use LED or cold cathode UV lights - they are UV-A which is the wrong spectrum and actually promote algae and such.

UV-C lights only really make much sense in an aquarium or pond setting where a cheap much more effective chemical based biological control that we use for watercooling isn't an alternative because it would kill the fish (actually copper sulfate compounds used to be used a lot for aquariums but is now frowned upon - even made illegal in some places - because of increased mortality rates) and where adding heat to the water isn't a big deal - desirable in most instances.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I guess if he went with all clear acrylic blocks, & massive tube res it may work properly... IDK though, normally in an aquarium they have direct contact with the water. They don't shine through much of anything, besides maybe a think piece of plexi.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but, the main issue is UV-C lights get very hot, and they cost a lot - both initially and to maintain - you cannot use LED or cold cathode UV lights - they are UV-A which is the wrong spectrum and actually promote algae and such.
> 
> UV-C lights only really make much sense in an aquarium or pond setting where a cheap much more effective chemical based biological control that we use for watercooling isn't an alternative because it would kill the fish (actually copper sulfate compounds used to be used a lot for aquariums but is now frowned upon - even made illegal in some places - because of increased mortality rates) and where adding heat to the water isn't a big deal - desirable in most instances.
Click to expand...

Well I know that they are starting to eliminate chemical usage in commercial size pools with this method. So they had to have got it approved for bathing codes. This water get swallowed and what not. So I don't know. But I would hardly call it stupid or stupid to try. Makes me wonder how many great inventors got told that very same thing. Then came up with things you still use to this very day and became very successful.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Night guys


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Exactly and the fans push the hot air out of the top! You really think they made a reverse mother board tray just for looks?(For personal taste as you say)) You think they said hmmm this looks great lets flip the mobo over upside down for no purpose? This is clear as day. Not rocket science there. Its for hot air rising off your graphics cards and out of your build easier. With sure some fans pushing out on top.(But heat will leave the case better without fans on top as well in that config)You might be right about some cases not able to swap easy. But i have seen ones i think that are swappable i recall.


Even Case Labs them selves said they did for ascetics and that is all really...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You guys think there'll be better component deals Now through the Weekend, or Monday?


The sales this time of the year are for the most part myths... Yes you can get lucky and find some good deals but I have found as a general rule that there is a lot of bait and switch going on and also they are getting rid of older generation Tech!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> No, probably not. Cyber monday is an even bigger scam than black friday, & it gets even worse after christmas due to all the gift card onslaught markups... I worked in retail for a season a few years ago. Stores most definitely mark stuff up AFTER xmas so that people get less for there gift card money.
> 
> The best deals on storage will definitely be @ brick & mortar stores friday.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> NewEgg is pushing some pretty good ram deals right now...
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231689


to me I have found that if you can wait to toward the middle of january you can find the best deals on tech products..

and who wants a 4930. they are regular price 529.99


----------



## seross69

Or even Intel Core i7 3970X 3.5GHz LGA 799.99 regular price!!!!


----------



## raw2dogmeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Yes good ram deals. I got these they are on the QVL. Darn good price. Hope they work out well.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503


Excellent ram. I have a set, my brother has a set for the Rampage Formula he just bought off me...great price too!
I'm about to finish my Black Edition upgrade shortly. Been on 12 hr days at work, board has been here since last week waiting...todays the day!!!!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Heat is rising in your case. Regardless if theirs fans on it or not. You can blow it with your fan. But its still rising! Rising Rising Rising!


Umm..just no on this. Yes, heat rises, we all know. However with the size of a pc case and the amount of air being move around inside and thru the case the 'heat rises' thing doesn't really apply. Don't believe it? Stick a couple thermometers in your case at the top and bottom and check those temps.


----------



## Arm3nian

Are there going to more sales on the days to come, and cyber monday, or is this it?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raw2dogmeat*
> 
> Excellent ram. I have a set, my brother has a set for the Rampage Formula he just bought off me...great price too!
> I'm about to finish my Black Edition upgrade shortly. Been on 12 hr days at work, board has been here since last week waiting...todays the day!!!!


Good glad to hear that they work well. Sadly it'll be toward February at tax time before I can buy the Black Edition and the processor (which i'm still undecided about). Plan is to have everything purchased and ready to go installed in the case once tax money hits the bank. Still debating 4930k or a 4820k. Well see i'll probably make the choice with all three in the cart while getting ready to push the buy button. I also might make a trip to microcenter and visit some family in the process to try and save a little money. Microcenter shows the 4820k for 269.99 and the 4930k for 529.99. We will see hopefully they will pick up come Black Editions and I can save even more! (wish full thinking) I really would like the 4930k but that extra $260 is almost another 770 for my sli.







Choices choices. Glad i got 2 months to think about it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Good glad to hear that they work well. Sadly it'll be toward February at tax time before I can buy the Black Edition and the processor (which i'm still undecided about). Plan is to have everything purchased and ready to go installed in the case once tax money hits the bank. Still debating 4930k or a 4820k. Well see i'll probably make the choice with all three in the cart while getting ready to push the buy button. I also might make a trip to microcenter and visit some family in the process to try and save a little money. Microcenter shows the 4820k for 269.99 and the 4930k for 529.99. We will see hopefully they will pick up come Black Editions and I can save even more! (wish full thinking) I really would like the 4930k but that extra $260 is almost another 770 for my sli.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Choices choices. Glad i got 2 months to think about it.


4930k and a 780ti


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 4930k and a 780ti


I wish on the 780ti. I just don't have the funds for that maybe one day. I have to barter buy sell trade to feed this new hobby of mine...lol my income can't support all I want to do. So i'm going to build a modest computer and roll with it. I'm still learning a lot, and a lot of this is new for me. Check out my build log for the story...lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I wish on the 780ti. I just don't have the funds for that maybe one day. I have to barter buy sell trade to feed this new hobby of mine...lol my income can't support all I want to do. So i'm going to build a modest computer and roll with it. I'm still learning a lot, and a lot of this is new for me. Check out my build log for the story...lol


sell your current 770 and grab a 780 classified/lighting or 780ti reference then imo









also 4930k all the way, if youre gonna go x79, make it worth it









a 780 classified second hand can go for as little as $400 atm btw, theres some on the OCN marketplace now for super cheap and they come with waterblocks.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sell your current 770 and grab a 780 classified/lighting or 780ti reference then imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also 4930k all the way, if youre gonna go x79, make it worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a 780 classified second hand can go for as little as $400 atm btw, theres some on the OCN marketplace now for super cheap and they come with waterblocks.


It would be worth to sell if I wouldn't have just purchaced the 770 last week...


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> It would be worth to sell if I wouldn't have just purchaced the 770 last week...


where did you buy it from? maybe you could return it without too heavy of a restocking fee? the 780 classifieds that strong island is selling are the best ive seen, and his prices are absolutely killer.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> where did you buy it from? maybe you could return it without too heavy of a restocking fee? the 780 classifieds that strong island is selling are the best ive seen, and his prices are absolutely killer.


Newegg. Problem is I installed it in my current rig to play with it and test it out. And I sold the 660ti I had in the computer to buy some more stuff for the new build. See I have to buy sell and trade to get what I want. What my plans are is to run this rig with x3 sli. I want to play with the settings etc. When, lets say the 800 series nvidia cards come out I will probably go ahead and and make that final step to something like the 780ti.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Newegg. Problem is I installed it in my current rig to play with it and test it out. And I sold the 660ti I had in the computer to buy some more stuff for the new build. See I have to buy sell and trade to get what I want. What my plans are is to run this rig with x3 sli. I want to play with the settings etc. When, lets say the 800 series nvidia cards come out I will probably go ahead and and make that final step to something like the 780ti.


ah, well in that case, stick with what you got on the gpu side, and grab a 4930k







or even a 3960x off ebay, i almost jumped on one today for $570 but i had to restrain myself because i already have some 2011 cpus, but no motherboard lol.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ah, well in that case, stick with what you got on the gpu side, and grab a 4930k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or even a 3960x off ebay, i almost jumped on one today for $570 but i had to restrain myself because i already have some 2011 cpus, but no motherboard lol.


I got a feeling i'm gonna go with the 4930k because I don't plan on upgrading from 2011 and the Black Edition for at lease 3+ years if not longer. Now I just need to figure out what to do with my current rig. Another build maybe?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Ok, for us guys that aren't going full water cooling and will just be running a h-100i what kind of max overclock are we looking at? Temps? Voltage? Also what are your thoughts on the OC panel? Since I have the Corsair Air 540 as my case it won't look right in the case mounted vertical. And honestly I doubt I will ever use the thing. Might find someone on here to buy the thing...lol Thoughts?


Anybody running a h100i?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Anybody running a h100i?


It is possible you could sell your OC Panel or you could set it on top of the case to monitor things and would look bad a$$ there!!! Never ran a H100i


----------



## szeged

story of my life -


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Anybody running a h100i?


Not yet... Maybe by the end of the weekend if my 780Ti decides to show up by tomorrow (shipping from NJ warehouse, so I don't have the highest of hope with the US holiday 'n all).
This was supposed to be my Christmas vacation build, but now that I have most of the parts here... Well, I'm getting antsy to get it started









I have an H100 in my current build (RIVE + early stepping 3930K) and it's doing OK at 4.5GHz.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> story of my life -


Maybe one day. Should be able to get it by the 15 Jan. is what my sources are telling me


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Maybe one day. Should be able to get it by the 15 Jan. is what my sources are telling me


ughghhghghghghghh









ncix is saying their next batch is dec 5th, if newegg doesnt get any by then i may *gulp* have to go with ncix.


----------



## niklot1981




----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Well I know that they are starting to eliminate chemical usage in commercial size pools with this method. So they had to have got it approved for bathing codes. This water get swallowed and what not. So I don't know. But I would hardly call it stupid or stupid to try. Makes me wonder how many great inventors got told that very same thing. Then came up with things you still use to this very day and became very successful.


This isn't an invention, it's an adaptation, & likely a poor one @ that. The lights are too big & too hot. They also require direct contact with the water to be effective. So, you would have to use a cooler out side of your case to get a large enough surface area for it to be useful. They effect is greatly diminished when shining through something.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ughghhghghghghghh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ncix is saying their next batch is dec 5th, if newegg doesnt get any by then i may *gulp* have to go with ncix.


NCIX has a long line of people as well, hopping on would likely net you the same result of waiting for the next, next batch.


----------



## PoolBoy

I heard the totally number of RIVBE coming to Hong Kong will be only 15 pieces, mid-Dec.


----------



## _REAPER_

MY mobo is in KAF... WooT I just need to get out of this AOB 11 days 2 hours 15 min


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Even Case Labs them selves said they did for ascetics and that is all really...
> The sales this time of the year are for the most part myths... Yes you can get lucky and find some good deals but I have found as a general rule that there is a lot of bait and switch going on and also they are getting rid of older generation Tech!!
> 
> to me I have found that if you can wait to toward the middle of january you can find the best deals on tech products..
> 
> and who wants a 4930. they are regular price 529.99


Well then caselabs is just silly and then they clearly have no clue why they offer a inverted mobo tray. I am sure they are not the creators of this anyhow. You guys can believe what you want. But this was created to dissipate heat more efficiently in your case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Umm..just no on this. Yes, heat rises, we all know. However with the size of a pc case and the amount of air being move around inside and thru the case the 'heat rises' thing doesn't really apply. Don't believe it? Stick a couple thermometers in your case at the top and bottom and check those temps.


"heat rises" thing always applies!!! You can push it around with fans all you want. It still is going to rise. Do we put an arraignment of fans on top of our pcs for looks too?


----------



## skupples

proper fan placement is to combat the "heat rises" stuff. When done properly you completely overcome the passive rise of heat.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> This isn't an invention, it's an adaptation, & likely a poor one @ that. The lights are too big & too hot. They also require direct contact with the water to be effective. So, you would have to use a cooler out side of your case to get a large enough surface area for it to be useful. They effect is greatly diminished when shining through something.
> NCIX has a long line of people as well, hopping on would likely net you the same result of waiting for the next, next batch.


I agree. It was worth some thought though. Still kind of interesting. I wonder if it really does kill algae though and not just bacteria.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> proper fan placement is to combat the "heat rises" stuff. When done properly you completely overcome the passive rise of heat.


Well in theory yes. But you can blow it out the side your case.. sure. But its still going to rise there. Unless you manage to cool the air completely in the process. I never said you can not push it around. But to argue that it is heat rising never applies with some fans on it. Is wrong. The smart thing is to have fans on the top of your case. Because its going that direction anyhow. Unless your pushing it some other way that is.


----------



## Cool Mike

Got my Asus 280x Matrix Platinum in the Rig. Much better than I hoped for. Solid piece of hardware. Nice combination (All ROG) with RIVBE. 1230Mhz Core, 1850Mhz Memory. 3D Mark, Valley, and BF4 stable. All at 1440P. Sorry for the picture, left the side attached.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Well then caselabs is just silly and then they clearly have no clue why they offer a inverted mobo tray. I am sure they are not the creators of this anyhow. You guys can believe what you want. But this was created to dissipate heat more efficiently in your case.
> "heat rises" thing always applies!!! You can push it around with fans all you want. It still is going to rise. Do we put an arraignment of fans on top of our pcs for looks too?


I was originally researching this for a month but found different. After looking into it I think you're confusing reverse w/ BTX cases which are no longer being made, and if so are very rare. There are a ton of threads and forums correcting the myth w/ reverse.

I'm pretty sure Case labs being one of the top enthusiast case builders understands what reverse means and does though, I wouldn't go calling them silly and dumb


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Well then caselabs is just silly and then they clearly have no clue why they offer a inverted mobo tray. I am sure they are not the creators of this anyhow. You guys can believe what you want. But this was created to dissipate heat more efficiently in your case.
> "heat rises" thing always applies!!! You can push it around with fans all you want. It still is going to rise. Do we put an arraignment of fans on top of our pcs for looks too?


Yes heat rises, but if you buy CL case the odds are good you are watercooling your rig. the only heat is in the rads not the mb . With this in mind the reverse mb tray is for looks only, it is done mostly to reverse the gpu. (My 2 cents).


----------



## skupples

It helps to reduce gravity induced warp on GPU's as well.


----------



## Arm3nian

The reverse is just an option for those who want it. For one it allows you to see the gpu waterblocks. Another benefit is that in a standard tray, the cpu is near the top of the case. When flipped around, the cpu is on the bottom and the gpu's are near the middle. So if you position your reservoir and pump near the top of the case, instead of pumping the water in an upwards direction or horizontal, it can go down in an angle, increasing flow.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> The reverse is just an option for those who want it. For one it allows you to see the gpu waterblocks. Another benefit is that in a standard tray, the cpu is near the top of the case. When flipped around, the cpu is on the bottom and the gpu's are near the middle. *So if you position your reservoir and pump near the top of the case, instead of pumping the water in an upwards direction or horizontal, it can go down in an angle, increasing flow*.


Shazaaammmm there batman,

That's as wrong as Optix One's rantings.

Whether the pump /res is at the top or bottom of your system, since it's a loop, the pump sees the same resistance to flow if it "pushes coolant up first" and then the coolant "falls down" after, or falls down first and pushes up after.

It's a loop, it takes the same energy to move the coolant wherever in the loop you apply it.

The "put the pump at the top idea is kinda like saying stage coaches had smaller wheels in the front so it was always rolling down hill to make it easier on the horses.

Darlene


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shazaaammmm there batman,
> 
> That's as wrong as Optix One's rantings.
> 
> Whether the pump /res is at the top or bottom of your system, since it's a loop, the pump sees the same resistance to flow if it "pushes coolant up first" and then the coolant "falls down" after, or falls down first and pushes up after.
> 
> It's a loop, it takes the same energy to move the coolant wherever in the loop you apply it.
> 
> The "put the pump at the top idea is kinda like saying stage coaches had smaller wheels in the front so it was always rolling down hill to make it easier on the horses.
> 
> Darlene


I'm not arguing physics equations, I'm saying that with a reverse layout you can design a loop that takes more horizontal and downward routes rather than horizontal and upward routes.

With a standard layout, the cpu is near the top, and you always have to go up to it. In a reverse layout you can skip this because the main components are in the bottom and middle, in an standard layout the components are in the middle and top. Just something who is visualizing their build can think about. Personally I could care less, which is why my case labs has a standard atx layout.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Yes heat rises, but if you buy CL case the odds are good you are watercooling your rig. the only heat is in the rads not the mb . With this in mind the reverse mb tray is for looks only, it is done mostly to reverse the gpu. (My 2 cents).


This is such a silly argument we're all having.

I found the most notable thing about a reversible case was how to arrange the wiring and water tubing. It's really all personal preference.


----------



## szeged

heat does not rise, through many many tests, i have confirmed, that sitting naked on a leather seat, heat does not rise from your bum, it will sit and fester and eventually cause a pile of sweat to appear out of no where.

science.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> This is such a silly argument we're all having.
> 
> I found the most notable thing about a reversible case was how to arrange the wiring and water tubing. It's really all personal preference.


Exactly my previous point, arranging the tubing alone can make your loop work with gravity more of the time. You might also arrange radiators in a different position.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoolBoy*
> 
> I heard the totally number of RIVBE coming to Hong Kong will be only 15 pieces, mid-Dec.


Wow, this is crazy. But at least it shows how many overclockers are here.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

OK, I got tired of waiting any longer. Newegg just sent out an email giving a 5% discount for all purchases made during the next 6 hrs on a mobile device, so I bit and bought my 4930k with a discount of $29.00 which brought the price down from $580 to $551. I may regret it if I do see a better deal in the next few days, but knew I'd kick myself if I let the 6hrs pass and then didn't see anything better.
Quote:


> 6 HOURS ONLY!!
> 5% OFF YOUR ENTIRE PURCHASE!*
> Enter promo code
> MBLBF5
> at checkout.
> 
> *Up to a maximum discount of $50.00 per order. No minimum purchase required. Limit one use per customer. Promo code can only be redeemed via m.newegg.com on your mobile device or the Newegg mobile app. Promo codes may only be used once per account and cannot be combined with other promo codes, combo discounts or promotions offering free gifts. Only available while funds last. Promo code starts from 12:00pm PT on 11/28/2013 and expires at 6:00pm PT on 11/28/13 or SOONER based on fund availability.
> SHOP NOW >> http://m.newegg.com/


----------



## szeged

If newegg doesnt give any good deals on the 4930k ill just go up to microcenter, its a 3 and a half hour drive, but worth it to tell newegg to get stuffed.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> If newegg doesnt give any good deals on the 4930k ill just go up to microcenter, its a 3 and a half hour drive, but worth it to tell newegg to get stuffed.


Going to end up being more for gas lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Going to end up being more for gas lol


my S10 can make it from tallahassee to atlanta and back on one tank







i used to live in atlanta and would come visit friends over the weekend lol.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> This is such a silly argument we're all having.
> 
> I found the most notable thing about a reversible case was how to arrange the wiring and water tubing. It's really all personal preference.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly my previous point, arranging the tubing alone can make your loop work with gravity more of the time. You might also arrange radiators in a different position.
Click to expand...

You're missing the point on how gravity effects the loop.

As an example, let's take a res/pump and 15 feet of tubing with a very high accuracy flow meter in the loop and sit the res/pump on the kitchen floor and drape the tubing up and over the refrigerator and take a reading on the flow meter.

Then move the pump to the top of the fridge, and take a reading.

It will be the same as before.

Now if instead of running the tubing as high as the top of the fridge, you only run it as high as say a computer case, you'll see a slightly higher flow rate than when the tube went over the fridge, but it will still be the same whether the pump is on the floor or on top of the computer case.

The only thing that counts is the actual distance from the top of the coolant circuit to its lowest point.

In actual fact, any setup with a pedestal mounted rad is worse than any setup within a single compartment, but with today's pumps with 25 to 30 feet of head pressure, the difference that 24" from top to bottom versus 30" from top to bottom makes is a non-starter.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

GO EAT TURDUCKEN. See if you can OVERCLOCK your stove!


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> heat does not rise, through many many tests, i have confirmed, that sitting naked on a leather seat, heat does not rise from your bum, it will sit and fester and eventually cause a pile of sweat to appear out of no where.
> 
> science.


^^^^ this!


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You're missing the point on how gravity effects the loop.
> 
> As an example, let's take a res/pump and 15 feet of tubing with a very high accuracy flow meter in the loop and sit the res/pump on the kitchen floor and drape the tubing up and over the refrigerator and take a reading on the flow meter.
> 
> Then move the pump to the top of the fridge, and take a reading.
> 
> It will be the same as before.
> 
> Now if instead of running the tubing as high as the top of the fridge, you only run it as high as say a computer case, you'll see a slightly higher flow rate than when the tube went over the fridge, but it will still be the same whether the pump is on the floor or on top of the computer case.
> 
> The only thing that counts is the actual distance from the top of the coolant circuit to its lowest point.
> 
> In actual fact, any setup with a pedestal mounted rad is worse than any setup within a single compartment, but with today's pumps with 25 to 30 feet of head pressure, the difference that 24" from top to bottom versus 30" from top to bottom makes is a non-starter.
> 
> Darlene


Glad someone said it. Orientation doesn't matter because gravity is a conserved force.... it's path independent. If you set a datum point, then sum gravitational potential energy around the closed loop it will be 0.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> If newegg doesnt give any good deals on the 4930k ill just go up to microcenter, its a 3 and a half hour drive, but worth it to tell newegg to get stuffed.


there is enough guys on here that live near a Microcenter has anyone thought of having someone else buy it and then mail it to them.. it would cost about 10 dollars to mail so with tax and shipping it would be less than 550...


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I was originally researching this for a month but found different. After looking into it I think you're confusing reverse w/ BTX cases which are no longer being made, and if so are very rare. There are a ton of threads and forums correcting the myth w/ reverse.
> 
> I'm pretty sure Case labs being one of the top enthusiast case builders understands what reverse means and does though, I wouldn't go calling them silly and dumb


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shazaaammmm there batman,
> 
> That's as wrong as Optix One's rantings.
> 
> Whether the pump /res is at the top or bottom of your system, since it's a loop, the pump sees the same resistance to flow if it "pushes coolant up first" and then the coolant "falls down" after, or falls down first and pushes up after.
> 
> It's a loop, it takes the same energy to move the coolant wherever in the loop you apply it.
> 
> The "put the pump at the top idea is kinda like saying stage coaches had smaller wheels in the front so it was always rolling down hill to make it easier on the horses.
> 
> Darlene


If you guys believe that inverted motherboards were created for looks and personal preference. That is your own choice. But this is simply not the truth! Let me say it once more. Its was created for your hot graphics cards(hottest thing in your build) to be at the top of your build!!! Because heat rises! Plain and simple. They have stated it plenty times in pc mags everywhere. On many videos ive watched. So call them rantings. But really call it truth.


----------



## SReDQ

I didn't realize there is another board for Rampage IV Black Edition.

Some guys here already saw my post in Hardware news.

I am very interested in buying this board, but I have a question I hope you (owners of RIVBE) can answer. Bold one below.

I am curious about one of its features, 4-Way Optimization. I read that performs Auto Tuning, which automatically overclocks the CPU to within ~95% of its potential, a process that typically could take up to 2 days to manually overclock.

Example of 4-Way Optimization:
1-Click Overclock to 4.8Ghz - 4-Way Optimization: 




It would be useful for hardcore gamers, who have no time to tune manually. They want that program to achieve 95% of the way with minimal effort.

This auto-tuning can provide power efficiency, meaning volts are not fixed. They are fluctuating - energy saving. Having both energy saving + overclocking is something I like to have.

I heard that Republic of Gamer version only has generic 4.2, 4.4 and 4.6ghz stages, there is no dynamic options (that video or screenshot below the autotuning is shown with a few different options, Ratio Only, BCLK First etc and it runs a cycle on the TPU section to find a stable clock.). *Can you please confirm if RIVBE's 4-Way have dynamic options or just generic 4.2, 4.4, and 4.6ghz stages?*

Dynamic Options









Generic three Stages (4.2, 4.4, and 4.6ghz)









We like to know more abilities of Rampage IV Black Edition!


----------



## qcktthfm1

Thanks for the video, this great for an OC noob like me


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Even Case Labs them selves said they did for ascetics and that is all really...
> The sales this time of the year are for the most part myths... Yes you can get lucky and find some good deals but I have found as a general rule that there is a lot of bait and switch going on and also they are getting rid of older generation Tech!!
> 
> to me I have found that if you can wait to toward the middle of january you can find the best deals on tech products..
> 
> and who wants a 4930. they are regular price 529.99
> 
> 
> 
> Well then caselabs is just silly and then they clearly have no clue why they offer a inverted mobo tray. I am sure they are not the creators of this anyhow. You guys can believe what you want. But this was created to dissipate heat more efficiently in your case.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Umm..just no on this. Yes, heat rises, we all know. However with the size of a pc case and the amount of air being move around inside and thru the case the 'heat rises' thing doesn't really apply. Don't believe it? Stick a couple thermometers in your case at the top and bottom and check those temps.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> "heat rises" thing always applies!!! You can push it around with fans all you want. It still is going to rise. Do we put an arraignment of fans on top of our pcs for looks too?
Click to expand...

I'm fairly certain you have zero knowledge of what you're talking about.

First, inverted motherboard trays have been around for a decade.

Second, heat doesn't rise, it dissipates over its surface. HOT AIR rises, not heat. Why do you think heat sinks are designed the way they are? They spread the heat away from the origin and fans then pull cool air in, the hot air then rises.

Third, reverse ATX, especially while watercooling, IS an aesthetic preference and a preference only as watercooling is far more efficient than aircooling. 99.9999999% of the builds in CaseLabs cases are watercooled for a reason. We sell enthusiast grade chassis, not ones that are factory stamped in China. The people who buy our cases are going for watercooling and thus, if they choose reverse ATX, is purely based on aesthetics and layout preferences, not on the idea that heat rises, because, well, it doesn't.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Even Case Labs them selves said they did for ascetics and that is all really...
> The sales this time of the year are for the most part myths... Yes you can get lucky and find some good deals but I have found as a general rule that there is a lot of bait and switch going on and also they are getting rid of older generation Tech!!
> 
> to me I have found that if you can wait to toward the middle of january you can find the best deals on tech products..
> 
> and who wants a 4930. they are regular price 529.99
> 
> 
> 
> Well then caselabs is just silly and then they clearly have no clue why they offer a inverted mobo tray. I am sure they are not the creators of this anyhow. You guys can believe what you want. But this was created to dissipate heat more efficiently in your case.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Umm..just no on this. Yes, heat rises, we all know. However with the size of a pc case and the amount of air being move around inside and thru the case the 'heat rises' thing doesn't really apply. Don't believe it? Stick a couple thermometers in your case at the top and bottom and check those temps.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> "heat rises" thing always applies!!! You can push it around with fans all you want. It still is going to rise. Do we put an arraignment of fans on top of our pcs for looks too?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> proper fan placement is to combat the "heat rises" stuff. When done properly you completely overcome the passive rise of heat.
> 
> 
> 
> Well in theory yes. _*But you can blow it out the side your case.. sure. But its still going to rise there*_. Unless you manage to cool the air completely in the process. I never said you can not push it around. But to argue that it is heat rising never applies with some fans on it. Is wrong. The smart thing is to have fans on the top of your case. Because its going that direction anyhow. Unless your pushing it some other way that is.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shazaaammmm there batman,
> 
> That's as wrong as Optix One's rantings.
> 
> Whether the pump /res is at the top or bottom of your system, since it's a loop, the pump sees the same resistance to flow if it "pushes coolant up first" and then the coolant "falls down" after, or falls down first and pushes up after.
> 
> It's a loop, it takes the same energy to move the coolant wherever in the loop you apply it.
> 
> The "put the pump at the top idea is kinda like saying stage coaches had smaller wheels in the front so it was always rolling down hill to make it easier on the horses.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you guys believe that inverted motherboards were created for looks and personal preference. That is your own choice. But this is simply not the truth! Let me say it once more. Its was created for your hot graphics cards(hottest thing in your build) to be at the top of your build!!! Because heat rises! Plain and simple. They have stated it plenty times in pc mags everywhere. On many videos ive watched. So call them rantings. But really call it truth.
Click to expand...





again. wrong. STAGNANT air that is warmer then the rest of the air will rise. you even stated it ( i made it bold, and nice and big for you ) after it leaves your case, assuming you have proper air flow in your case of course, will rise, once the speed of the air moving is slower and has less force then the force created from fans. ( but again if your have designed/layout your case properly this would all be outside your case

IE a house with a furnace in the attic. if heat just rose even with a fan, there would be no heat in the house. instead because it in 1 in a tunnel ( your case/ the ductwork ) 2 there is force being applied to it that well overcomes the force created by the "heat rising" it will move in ANY direction you want it to.

in a stagnant area heat will rise. however in an area that is consistently moving heat will go where you want it to, as i have said that would be true if you used 100% passive heat sinks.

however no matter what you will just sit there, argue and say "i am right" feel free it is like your argument about using uv, you changed the argument to be right, by adding "(paraphrase) not with todays tech, but possibly in the future"

this guy says it very well. no it is not my way of showing you are wrong, *but he is far more eloquent then i am*, i would never use such sources and quote them as fact
source
Quote:


> *With no outside influences hot air rises above cooler air*. But there is airflow in the pc case so the air will flow with the current. It's simple fluid dynamics and convection.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> But more important is before the heat gets to the air, your heatsink needs to be good enough to dissipate the heat off the cpu, and this is conduction through the heatpipes and fins; which can be in any direction depending on the shape of the solids.
> 
> But to answer your question, no there isn't much more heat without touching the voltage but there is still more. Temps is dependent on ambient temps, case airflow, and heatsink (and of course how high the OC is). How much it affects games is dependent on the game and res
> 
> 
> .





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Even Case Labs them selves said they did for ascetics and that is all really...
> The sales this time of the year are for the most part myths... Yes you can get lucky and find some good deals but I have found as a general rule that there is a lot of bait and switch going on and also they are getting rid of older generation Tech!!
> 
> to me I have found that if you can wait to toward the middle of january you can find the best deals on tech products..
> 
> and who wants a 4930. they are regular price 529.99
> 
> 
> 
> Well then caselabs is just silly and then they clearly have no clue why they offer a inverted mobo tray. I am sure they are not the creators of this anyhow. You guys can believe what you want. But this was created to dissipate heat more efficiently in your case.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Umm..just no on this. Yes, heat rises, we all know. However with the size of a pc case and the amount of air being move around inside and thru the case the 'heat rises' thing doesn't really apply. Don't believe it? Stick a couple thermometers in your case at the top and bottom and check those temps.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> "heat rises" thing always applies!!! You can push it around with fans all you want. It still is going to rise. Do we put an arraignment of fans on top of our pcs for looks too?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm fairly certain you have zero knowledge of what you're talking about.
> 
> First, inverted motherboard trays have been around for a decade.
> 
> Second, heat doesn't rise, it dissipates over its surface. HOT AIR rises, not heat. Why do you think heat sinks are designed the way they are? They spread the heat away from the origin and fans then pull cool air in, the hot air then rises.
> 
> Third, reverse ATX, especially while watercooling, IS an aesthetic preference and a preference only as watercooling is far more efficient than aircooling. 99.9999999% of the builds in CaseLabs cases are watercooled for a reason. We sell enthusiast grade chassis, not ones that are factory stamped in China. The people who buy our cases are going for watercooling and thus, if they choose reverse ATX, is purely based on aesthetics and layout preferences, not on the idea that heat rises, because, well, it doesn't.
Click to expand...














http://misconceptions.science-book.net/2012/05/07/chemistry-versus-physics-why-does-heat-rise-part-1-of-2/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> heat does not rise, through many many tests, i have confirmed, that sitting naked on a leather seat, heat does not rise from your bum, it will sit and fester and eventually cause a pile of sweat to appear out of no where.
> 
> science.


hahahaha i cant even comment to this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> If newegg doesnt give any good deals on the 4930k ill just go up to microcenter, its a 3 and a half hour drive, but worth it to tell newegg to get stuffed.
> 
> 
> 
> there is enough guys on here that live near a Microcenter has anyone thought of having someone else buy it and then mail it to them.. it would cost about 10 dollars to mail so with tax and shipping it would be less than 550...
Click to expand...

but then you have to wait..... i dunno about you but i am impatient
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I was originally researching this for a month but found different. After looking into it I think you're confusing reverse w/ BTX cases which are no longer being made, and if so are very rare. There are a ton of threads and forums correcting the myth w/ reverse.
> 
> I'm pretty sure Case labs being one of the top enthusiast case builders understands what reverse means and does though, I wouldn't go calling them silly and dumb


wont even go into the fact that they design/engineer, build, and test cases/enclosures for enterprise stuffs.... ( data centers and the like )


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> If newegg doesnt give any good deals on the 4930k ill just go up to microcenter, its a 3 and a half hour drive, but worth it to tell newegg to get stuffed.


I feel you on the Microcenter thing. Luckily I have family about the same distance away from me. And I'll knock 2 birds out with one stone and schedule a trip to visit with the not 1 but 2 Microcenters where they live.









$269.99 for a 4820k
$529.99 for a 4930k


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I'm fairly certain you have zero knowledge of what you're talking about.
> 
> First, inverted motherboard trays have been around for a decade.
> 
> Second, heat doesn't rise, it dissipates over its surface. HOT AIR rises, not heat. Why do you think heat sinks are designed the way they are? They spread the heat away from the origin and fans then pull cool air in, the hot air then rises.
> 
> Third, reverse ATX, especially while watercooling, IS an aesthetic preference and a preference only as watercooling is far more efficient than aircooling. 99.9999999% of the builds in CaseLabs cases are watercooled for a reason. We sell enthusiast grade chassis, not ones that are factory stamped in China. The people who buy our cases are going for watercooling and thus, if they choose reverse ATX, is purely based on aesthetics and layout preferences, not on the idea that heat rises, because, well, it doesn't.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If you guys believe that inverted motherboards were created for looks and personal preference. That is your own choice. But this is simply not the truth! Let me say it once more. Its was created for your hot graphics cards(hottest thing in your build) to be at the top of your build!!! Because heat rises! Plain and simple. They have stated it plenty times in pc mags everywhere. On many videos ive watched. So call them rantings. But really call it truth.


again. wrong. STAGNANT air that is warmer then the rest of the air will rise. you even stated it ( i made it bold, and nice and big for you ) after it leaves your case, assuming you have proper air flow in your case of course, will rise, once the speed of the air moving is slower and has less force then the force created from fans. ( but again if your have designed/layout your case properly this would all be outside your case

IE a house with a furnace in the attic. if heat just rose even with a fan, there would be no heat in the house. instead because it in 1 in a tunnel ( your case/ the ductwork ) 2 there is force being applied to it that well overcomes the force created by the "heat rising" it will move in ANY direction you want it to.

in a stagnant area heat will rise. however in an area that is consistently moving heat will go where you want it to, as i have said that would be true if you used 100% passive heat sinks. however no matter what you will jsut sit there, argue and say "i am right" feel free

this guy says it very well. no it is not my way of showing you are wrong, *but he is far more eloquent then i am*, i would never use such sources and quote them as fact
source

hahahaha i cant even comment to this
but then you have to wait..... i dunno about you but i am impatient
wont even go into the fact that they design/engineer, build, and test cases/enclosures for enterprise stuffs.... ( data centers and the like )[/quote]

Ok guys. If you want to get technical heat does not rise. Its transfers and does radiate between objects. But when you are hitting it with a fan. It creates hot air that rises. Does that sound better for you? Inverted motherboards were meant to help that process. I don't know if you know what your talking about. Or if your just arguing a point for the sake of arguing. But its been stated plenty around the community.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> heat does not rise, through many many tests, i have confirmed, that sitting naked on a leather seat, heat does not rise from your bum, it will sit and fester and eventually cause a pile of sweat to appear out of no where.
> 
> science.


SCIENCE!!!!!!! lol


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> SCIENCE!!!!!!! lol


Science female dog.


----------



## binormalkilla

Hot air rises because of density differences..... Why are we even arguing about these topics in a motherboard thread. If you want to know about heat transfer go read about newton's law of cooling, Stephan Boltzmann's law, and Fourier's law. So much BS'ing ITT


----------



## skupples

Optic proof. Simple. Words men nothing. Fins us proof.

Go eat some turkey then bring us proof of your truthful claims.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> again. wrong. STAGNANT air that is warmer then the rest of the air will rise. you even stated it ( i made it bold, and nice and big for you ) after it leaves your case, assuming you have proper air flow in your case of course, will rise, once the speed of the air moving is slower and has less force then the force created from fans. ( but again if your have designed/layout your case properly this would all be outside your case First of all there is not Stagnant air in your case!!!! unless you are building a completely passive computer..
> 
> IE a house with a furnace in the attic. if heat just rose even with a fan, there would be no heat in the house. instead because it in 1 in a tunnel ( your case/ the ductwork ) 2 there is force being applied to it that well overcomes the force created by the "heat rising" it will move in ANY direction you want it to. You just said something That tells me you have no idea what you are talking about
> 
> in a stagnant area heat will rise. however in an area that is consistently moving heat will go where you want it to, as i have said that would be true if you used 100% passive heat sinks. however no matter what you will jsut sit there, argue and say "i am right" feel free
> 
> this guy says it very well. no it is not my way of showing you are wrong, *but he is far more eloquent then i am*, i would never use such sources and quote them as fact
> source
> 
> hahahaha i cant even comment to this
> but then you have to wait..... i dunno about you but i am impatient
> wont even go into the fact that they design/engineer, build, and test cases/enclosures for enterprise stuffs.... ( data centers and the like )


Quote:


> Ok guys. If you want to get technical heat does not rise. Its transfers and does radiate between objects. But when you are hitting it with a fan. It creates hot air that rises. Does that sound better for you? Inverted motherboards were meant to help that process. I don't know if you know what your talking about. Or if your just arguing a point for the sake of arguing. But its been stated plenty around the community


That is correct heat does not rise and that is a fact!! when you blow air horizontally across a heat sink it continues to move horizontal it does not stop and say I am hot so now I rise and start moving vertical!!!! *You OPTIX are arguing for the sake of arguing* because I can see for a fact you know nothing about thermodynamics or laws of fluid dynamics and convection.... This is not the first time I have see you wrong and arguing for the sake of arguing...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> but then you have to wait..... i dunno about you but i am impatient


Yeah I am impatient also but I posted that about someone buying the CPU from Microcenter and then mailing it to you because it seems some people are waiting on a 20 dollar price drop to buy!!! So this would help them!!!


----------



## VertKiller

I Just got home with mine.


----------



## seross69

I am so Jelly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## X-Nine

I'm glad Asus finally has this on the market, though it's a little late for me as I'm going mini ITX with their Impact board. Hopefully they continue the look of these boards in the future because it's very slick.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> I Just got home with mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats! and welcome !







what CPU you gonna pop in thar?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I'm glad Asus finally has this on the market, though it's a little late for me as I'm going mini ITX with their Impact board. Hopefully they continue the look of these boards in the future because it's very slick.


Same and can't wait for my TH10 to arrive







you guys ROCK
















Give my thanks to Kevin if you see him for the 1000000 emails I sent him over the past few months


----------



## grassy

What boot times are you guys getting with this board.


----------



## jokrik

Some money shots from mine









Still waiting for the waterblock to release


----------



## skupples

Boot time should be 10-13,seconds with fast boot.

Happy hannukah


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Boot time should be 10-13,seconds with fast boot.
> 
> Happy hannukah


Is that your boot time


----------



## binormalkilla

I really wish they would have picked a WiFi chip set other than Broadcom..... very small chance of it being supported in Linux.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats! and welcome !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what CPU you gonna pop in thar?


Still have not decided. I'm going to wait till after the holidays for the better deals, then decide. I would like to go the 4960x way. But we will see. I may settle for the 4930k. Looks like a popular choice around here.

I still need to mod a case so I have lots of time and can read more on what others think of the two.cpu's and the ram they are using. I tried buy my case but what I wanted was out of stock. Will have to do some searching around town for what I'm going to use.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassy*
> 
> Is that your boot time


G
Haven't set it up yet. That's around average. 10-15 seconds. Depends on what's all on your boot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> I really wish they would have picked a WiFi chip set other than Broadcom..... very small chance of it being supported in Linux.


Yeah.... Many reasons the Wi-Fi is silly. I want to cut the traces to it.


----------



## skupples

Good ol optic. Only resort is rage when faced with requests of truth. I distinctly remember saying "its OK he will figure out that he he can sleep in it out when he gets it." the great thing about forums. The proof your accusations are wrong are only a few clicks away. I've only been here since 2012. Glad to see rage is your only response to requests for facts.

Turkey is gone. Now it's gordged couch & foot ball time.


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> I Just got home with mine.


Awesome i have mine but still waiting on my new case.







When do you think you will install.


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> G
> Haven't set it up yet. That's around average. 10-15 seconds. Depends on what's all on your boot.
> Yeah.... Many reasons the Wi-Fi is silly. I want to cut the traces to it.


Well when you set it up let us know and some pics would be great


----------



## grassy

Here's mine, show us your pics of your board guys and tell me your boot times for this board http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj555/grassy1962/IMGP1275.jpg


----------



## skupples

Insults usually hint towards rage... Anyways If you have seen it in so many documented places it shouldn't be hard to support your claims.

I haven't actually claimed much either way. Just asked for proof. Case labs says its 99% aesthetic but in your opinion thats "stupid" so back it up.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Inverted motherboard tray= coolers on graphics cards better exhaust, cpu access to cooler air! Google it people! I am done arguing here.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Good ol optic. Only resort is rage when faced with requests of truth. I distinctly remember saying "its OK he will figure out that he he can sleep in it out when he gets it." the great thing about forums. The proof your accusations are wrong are only a few clicks away. I've only been here since 2012. Glad to see rage is your only response to requests for facts.
> 
> Turkey is gone. Now it's gordged couch & foot ball time.
> 
> 
> 
> Good ol Skup. What you call rage. I call simple conversation. I am merely stating what i have heard from many of people, read in pc mags,watched in tutorial videos. If you disagree. Then i suggest you take your time to prove me wrong. If not then i would drop the subject and move on.
Click to expand...

quick i read it on the interwebs so it must be true !!



i wont even go into the fact that you claim to have seen this mystical proof, but yet wont shed one example, let alone the actual proof.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Insults usually hint towards rage... Anyways If you have seen it in so many documented places it shouldn't be hard to support your claims.
> 
> I haven't actually claimed much either way. Just asked for proof. Case labs says its 99% aesthetic but in your opinion thats "stupid" so back it up.


Skup i dont really care what caselabs says dude. I love there work and cases. But there not the almighty. Just google it man.


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Insults usually hint towards rage... Anyways If you have seen it in so many documented places it shouldn't be hard to support your claims.
> 
> I haven't actually claimed much either way. Just asked for proof. Case labs says its 99% aesthetic but in your opinion thats "stupid" so back it up.


Show me some pics of your board skupples, cant wait to see it.


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Useless statements from you always. Sit down and wait your turn.


Show me some pics of your board cant wait to see it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Useless statements from you always. Sit down and wait your turn.


LOL... You are so extremely rude, it's quite entertaining.









the only possible thermal benefit to inverted is with stock coolers blowing straight up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Inverted motherboard tray= coolers on graphics cards better exhaust, cpu access to cooler air! Google it people! I am done arguing here.


Wait, I thought you were simply conversing, not arguing.

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassy*
> 
> Show me some pics of your board skupples, cant wait to see it.




my toe is proof it's mine!









It's going to be another week before it's actually inside the case, and probably another two weeks after that before it's getting a maiden voyage. Excluding the out of case run i'll be doing tomorrow to make sure this 3930k is functional.


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> LOL... You are so extremely rude, it's quite entertaining.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the only possible thermal benefit to inverted is with stock coolers blowing straight up.
> Wait, I thought you were simply conversing, not arguing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my toe is proof it's mine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's going to be another week before it's actually inside the case, and probably another two weeks after that before it's getting a maiden voyage. Excluding the out of case run i'll be doing tomorrow to make sure this 3930k is functional.


That's not your toe, i know your toe and thats not it Watch out for that motherboards socket when installing as a friend of mine just buggered his up so it was game over for him. I have read a good review on this board and the boot up time was 30 seconds with windows installed and they manages to get it down to 15 seconds. Thats just the review though so thats why i am asking owners of the board for boot times. Every setup is different though it would be good to get an idea of what everyone is getting and besides it is a good topic to start a decent conversation on.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassy*
> 
> That's not your toe, i know your toe and thats not it Watch out for that motherboards socket when installing as a friend of mine just buggered his up so it was game over for him. I have read a good review on this board and the boot up time was 30 seconds with windows installed and they manages to get it down to 15 seconds. Thats just the review though so thats why i am asking owners of the board for boot times. Every setup is different though it would be good to get an idea of what everyone is getting and besides it is a good topic to start a decent conversation on.


That review didn't have fast-boot enabled, which is likely why they had 30 second boot times, and were able to get it down to ~15 seconds.

Any tips for socketing 3930k for the first time?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That review didn't have fast-boot enabled, which is likely why they had 30 second boot times, and were able to get it down to ~15 seconds.
> 
> Any tips for socketing 3930k for the first time?


not hard as long as you do not touch the pins. just be sure you don't touch them or do like I did and use rag to wipe around socket and then get strings from rag caught in pins!!!


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That review didn't have fast-boot enabled, which is likely why they had 30 second boot times, and were able to get it down to ~15 seconds.
> 
> Any tips for socketing 3930k for the first time?


Yea, i have one excellent tip for socketing your 3930K "Do it carefully"


----------



## gdubc

Okay, please guys, stop feeding the strays. If you stop feeding them they stop coming around.


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Okay, please guys, stop feeding the strays. If you stop feeding them they stop coming around.


But i have nothing to feed them, i spent all my money on the Rampage 4 Black Edition Here boy cumon,cumon


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Okay, please guys, stop feeding the strays. If you stop feeding them they stop coming around.


Show us a picture of your board first:thumb:


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for you, my #1 fan boy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you are right after all. Pictures as proof, or it never happened.
> 
> Feed them once & they never go away.
> 
> & for the record, anyone who's been around for more than 97 posts know's i'm not an almighty source of information, & love being shown proof of my incorrect assumptions.


I'm sure anyone that's been around more than my 97 posts knows that your definitely not a source of any real info and really doesn't care to show you proof of any of your assumptions. Because you tend to jump in to disagree. Just to try and make yourself look good. But cant show me anything that backs up your gifted claims. Google it!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> I'm sure anyone that's been around more than my 97 posts knows that your definitely not a source of any real info and really doesn't care to show you proof of any of your assumptions. Because you tend to jump in to disagree. Just to try and make yourself look good. But cant show me anything that backs up your gifted claims. Google it!


See, this is the problem. I haven't actually claimed anything in regards to inverted vs standard besides that it doesn't matter when watercooling, & even the creators of the case say it doesn't matter. *The only time inverted makes any difference is when air cooling, with blower style GPU's.* Their, now I claimed something...

I'm not actually sure what wordage I would google, & it doesn't affect me since I watercool my systems. Please, supply me with a lmgtfy link if the information is so readily available.


----------



## grassy

The following is a copy of a review i read describing the boot times for all to read.
Throughout testing, we were repeatedly irritated by the time taken for the Rampage IV Black Edition to POST. We were regularly forced to wait well over 30 seconds before reaching the Windows loading screen, around 15-20 of which was spent staring at the POST screen's ROG logo.
Irrelevant of whether we intended to boot into Windows or launch the UEFI BIOS, the time taken was far longer than we have come to expect. Even with a stripped POST (disabled Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and three ASM1061 controllers), we could not get the POST time below 15 seconds. In fact, stripping some of the onboard controllers away from the POST seemed to have no effect on the time taken to reach the Windows loading screen.
The time required to POST is something that Asus should be able, and really needs, to fix with a BIOS update.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

If anyone plays this. Hit me up. I am decent. But i would love to learn more or play with others on a team.


----------



## grassy

Full Review here http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-x79-motherboard-review/


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following is a copy of a review i read describing the boot times for all to read.
> Throughout testing, we were repeatedly irritated by the time taken for the Rampage IV Black Edition to POST. We were regularly forced to wait well over 30 seconds before reaching the Windows loading screen, around 15-20 of which was spent staring at the POST screen's ROG logo.
> Irrelevant of whether we intended to boot into Windows or launch the UEFI BIOS, the time taken was far longer than we have come to expect. Even with a stripped POST (disabled Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and three ASM1061 controllers), we could not get the POST time below 15 seconds. In fact, stripping some of the onboard controllers away from the POST seemed to have no effect on the time taken to reach the Windows loading screen.
> The time required to POST is something that Asus should be able, and really needs, to fix with a BIOS update.


I did not know this was a issue. Mine posted right away. Is there people in this thread that had this happen?


----------



## VertKiller

I'm hanging up side down which makes me inverted. Or, is that inebriated.

This is my first Intel built. Now you guys got me worried about mounting the cpu. Are they that much harder to do than AMDs? It's something I never even considered till I read these last few posts. I do know that the pins on my board are fine as we checked in the store to make sure.

Since I'm building a scratch case. I'm looking at the caselabs workbench to use as the motherboard tray which brings me to this question. The gpu expansion slots are 7 and not 8. What advantages/dis-advantages does this have. I have never gone more than 2 cards before. Depending on shipping price I could also pick up a cheep $100 case and strip that down for the board but it is also a 7 slot. But gives me more parts to play with including my 690 advance that I'll be stripping for parts.

I too am wondering which way to mount the motherboard tray. I'm leaning to inverted to show off things better.


----------



## skupples

@Grassy thanks for the link.

@Vertkiller It's more of a pain in the ass, and a much more delicate procedure due to the way they are designed. AMD pins are on the CPU & plug into the socket, intel's are on the socket & pressure mount to the CPU. Just be careful, it will feel like you are about to break the motherboard when pressing down the clamps.

Here, I did me some googlin'!









http://misconceptions.science-book.net/2012/05/07/chemistry-versus-physics-why-does-heat-rise-part-1-of-2/

I believe Diva said it best "nonsensical ravings"


----------



## seross69

^ OMG lets dont get started again!!!

what every way you think looks best is all I will say on this matter......


----------



## szeged

clearly the only option is to have the motherboard at a 45 degree angle, and facing away from you so all you see is the back of the board.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> ^ OMG lets dont get started again!!!
> 
> what every way you think looks best is all I will say on this matter......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> clearly the only option is to have the motherboard at a 45 degree angle, and facing away from you so all you see is the back of the board.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> ^ OMG lets dont get started again!!!
> 
> what every way you think looks best is all I will say on this matter......


True







same goes to me


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> True
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> same goes to me


Count me in


----------



## seross69

^ Actually with regular orientation look at this build and he has his at a angle so you can see the board and this is in a Case Labs Case!!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1334854/tath-caselabs-th-10-pedestal-hill-7-9/710#post_20562670

So 45 degree angle is nice!!! LOL


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> ^ Actually with regular orientation look at this build and he has his at a angle so you can see the board and this is in a Case Labs Case!!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1334854/tath-caselabs-th-10-pedestal-hill-7-9/710#post_20562670
> 
> So 45 degree angle is nice!!! LOL


pffff wth lol


----------



## _REAPER_

@ Skupples... Glad you got your board...just so you know it make me laugh watching you and Optixone go at it. Nothing but fun from this part of the world.

@Optixone.. You sure do have alot of opinions that you believe are facts but hey to each their own.. Keep on keepin on but if you must start a fight with people make a new thread

@THREAD.. Thanks for keeping me entertained this takes my mind off of where I am currently deployed. Need I mention I am down to 17 days 14 hours 52 min until I go on RR.

SEMPER FI


----------



## skupples

@_REAPER_ I'm glad I could be of service to you while you count down the minutes to coming home.

Daniel Patrick Moynihan once said... "You are entitled to your opinion, but you are not entitled to your own facts."


----------



## maxxx.ph

@_REAPER_: Looks like your in the PH, thanks for all the help you guys have done.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> @ Skupples... Glad you got your board...just so you know it make me laugh watching you and Optixone go at it. Nothing but fun from this part of the world.
> 
> @Optixone.. You sure do have alot of opinions that you believe are facts but hey to each their own.. Keep on keepin on but if you must start a fight with people make a new thread
> 
> @THREAD.. Thanks for keeping me entertained this takes my mind off of where I am currently deployed. Need I mention I am down to 17 days 14 hours 52 min until I go on RR.
> 
> SEMPER FI


Thank you so much for your service, god speed home ! Heros like you has kept our country as amazing as it is !


----------



## skupples

please don't click me

I'm not lonely, though I am fighting to keep my turducken down. My Cousin sure knows how to stuff a mans tummy that's for damn sure. Should of stopped after 6 Jewish meatballs.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> please don't click me
> 
> I'm not lonely, though I am fighting to keep my turducken down. My Cousin sure knows how to stuff a mans tummy that's for damn sure. Should of stopped after 6 Jewish meatballs.


I read that article too. What does that have to do say about air flow and cooling components with a inverted motherboard in a computer case? At this point I guess your trying to prove what you said wrong then as well. (Better cooling with the gpus) I'm not sure you know what to believe anymore. You just are destined to keep this going. I'm convinced.


----------



## seross69

Now that that is over!!! I am real impressed with the Lauch of the is board. I did not preorder because I expected the same nightmare problems that was there when the RIVE was released. All I have read or seen on here is good things with the overclocking and memory. Do you guys remember the nightmare everyone seemed to have with the RIVE and large amounts of Memory. Asus has these problems solved for the RIVE and even better for this board. I am now regretting not Pre-ordering..

I am feeling sad









Someone send me their board


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Now that that is over!!! I am real impressed with the Lauch of the is board. I did not preorder because I expected the same nightmare problems that was there when the RIVE was released. All I have read or seen on here is good things with the overclocking and memory. Do you guys remember the nightmare everyone seemed to have with the RIVE and large amounts of Memory. Asus has these problems solved for the RIVE and even better for this board. I am now regretting not Pre-ordering..
> 
> I am feeling sad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Someone send me their board*


Ask those who didn't order from NCIX, we already went through hell


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Ask those who didn't order from NCIX, we already went through hell












all I can do since I was not even smart enough to order one.. expected same buggy launch!!


----------



## skupples




----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


Like a said "child like behaviour" and just can not drop it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


I know that was meant as a JOKE but man you are going a little far with that... for reason's you don't even know!!!


----------



## seross69

I dont know about you guys but I am really ready to see some water and air cooled overclocks on the CPU and the memory..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I dont know about you guys but I am really ready to see some water and air cooled overclocks on the CPU and the memory..


That was actually supposed to be posted in one million post thread, but I guess I posted it to the wrong thread.








It's entertaining you think i'm still worried about heat rising.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I dont know about you guys but I am really ready to see some water and air cooled overclocks on the CPU and the memory..


I'm ready for the rest of my odds & ends to show up so I can stop gazing @ this husk of a 900D thinking to my self I should of gone caselabs.


----------



## LunaP

Well was kinda ticked I received a matte vs gloss for my korean monitor but ended up just removing the matte film, actually pretty damn easy











Soon as my Case arrives I can design out how I'll do the RAD's / WC I might have to drill a hole for the tubing to make it more stealth.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm ready for the rest of my odds & ends to show up so I can stop gazing @ this husk of a 900D thinking to my self I should of gone caselabs.


you should have got a case labs case instead of that SFF case you got!!! and that is my FACT!!!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> you should have got a case labs case instead of that SFF case you got!!! and that is my FACT!!!!


It's definitely a fact. 900D is too skinny. Always next year! SFF for 900D should stand for skinny form factor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Well was kinda ticked I received a matte vs gloss for my korean monitor but ended up just removing the matte film, actually pretty damn easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soon as my Case arrives I can design out how I'll do the RAD's / WC I might have to drill a hole for the tubing to make it more stealth.


Looking good! They would never know the difference.


----------



## skupples

anyone know anything about lapping E series CPU's? Seems the IHS hole could be a major issue.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> anyone know anything about lapping E series CPU's? Seems the IHS hole could be a major issue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> anyone know anything about lapping E series CPU's? Seems the IHS hole could be a major issue.


This could be a very good idea and would work with these chips as it is suppose to be soldiered. It has been so long since anyone has done this all the shops have stopped carrying the gear to do it with.. the main thing to to do it right or you can make it worse....

Yes the 900D is too skinny sort of like the STH-10. Got to have a doublewide to have room for anything I hate having a cramped case..

But the 900D is a good case and I know you will do amazing things with it!!!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> This could be a very good idea and would work with these chips as it is suppose to be soldiered. It has been so long since anyone has done this all the shops have stopped carrying the gear to do it with.. the main thing to to do it right or you can make it worse....
> 
> Yes the 900D is too skinny sort of like the STH-10. Got to have a doublewide to have room for anything I hate having a cramped case..
> 
> But the 900D is a good case and I know you will do amazing things with it!!!!


I definitely want to do it with the 3930k. Just need to figure out the proper method for not getting dust/water/paste inside the IHS hole. Might as well mirror shine my CPU will i'm shining the LGA 1366 back plate & dynatron.

OK, must retire.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Well was kinda ticked I received a matte vs gloss for my korean monitor but ended up just removing the matte film, actually pretty damn easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soon as my Case arrives I can design out how I'll do the RAD's / WC I might have to drill a hole for the tubing to make it more stealth.


How much you know about the korean monitors? I know absolutely nothing can you fill me in?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> How much you know about the korean monitors? I know absolutely nothing can you fill me in?


Well for starters there are a few brands but the most popular ones are the QNIX/X-Star ones ( same exact model just diff name ) which are guaranteed a minimum of 96hz which is pretty good. THey're 1440p and a majority of them hit 120hz easily. There's a huge thread on it actually. They're super HQ monitors too, using Samsung PLS panels (high end) as opposed to LG IPS which are of less quality and used on other Korean monitors it seems.

From what I know gloss is discontinued for a bit as they're out and are replaced w/ Gloss + Tempered glass ( the apple cinema look ) I'm gonna get 4 of these and run 3 in surround and 1 in portrait.

They're amazing panels and I highly recommend one at the price. They shoot around 280-340$ depending, check out the QNIX/Xstar owners club thread for more info and best places to buy from.









They're a GREAT addition to high end setups like these.


----------



## skupples

daddy like.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> daddy like.


Me too too bad i just bought 3 of these for $129.99 each







http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009483


----------



## Porgy

Luna post me up. Parts in, 1am and drunk, about to start piecing together.


----------



## alancsalt

Cleaned as much as possible..


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxxx.ph*
> 
> @_REAPER_: Looks like your in the PH, thanks for all the help you guys have done.


Currently I am in AFG but headed ot the PH, to be with my family in the coming days, then back to AFG.


----------



## Dantrax

Seross69 "Got to have a doublewide to have room for anything I hate having a cramped case." I have one of these lian li pc-d8000, the d is for double wide. lian li is also coming out with a pc-d600 soon. It's just not as big as the d8000. http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/pc-d600/

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_204&products_id=35873 The d8000 is barren inside, but it has lots of room for most things & still not enough for others. tricky part is putting screws in 5 1/4" drive bays. I had to screw in the shallow devices 1st ( card reader, fan controller) & then screw in the deeper devices (dvd, bluray). The d600 fixed that mistake by putting in a removable hdd 5 1/4" cage.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> Seross69 "Got to have a doublewide to have room for anything I hate having a cramped case." I have one of these lian li pc-d8000, the d is for double wide. lian li is also coming out with a pc-d600 soon. It's just not as big as the d8000. http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/pc-d600/
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_204&products_id=35873 The d8000 is barren inside, but it has lots of room for most things & still not enough for others. tricky part is putting screws in 5 1/4" drive bays. I had to screw in the shallow devices 1st ( card reader, fan controller) & then screw in the deeper devices (dvd, bluray)


I have a *TX-10D*

The best Case made... thanks for the link's..


----------



## Redshift 91

Skupples, I thought you were using indigo xtreme, it's super easy. I got mine in one try, just watch the application procedure on youtube.


----------



## Dantrax

I have a TX-10D

The best Case made... thanks for the link's.. Your welcome & Wow man that TX-10D looks great. But I would have to get a bigger apartment, I can barely get around the d8000 now.


----------



## arkhacker2

RIVE upgrade to RIVEBE think WHAT?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkhacker2*
> 
> RIVE upgrade to RIVEBE think WHAT?


English?


----------



## PoolBoy

Cheers from Hong Kong









I am in!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Skupples, I thought you were using indigo xtreme, it's super easy. I got mine in one try, just watch the application procedure on youtube.


I have used it many times, and I do have a surplus of strips, but they are all lga 1155 strips. I use Indigo Xtreme CLEAN... That stuff is AMAAAAAAAAAAAAZING. You could dissolve road tar with it. For the 3930k i'm using Cool Labs Liquid ultra.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkhacker2*
> 
> RIVE upgrade to RIVEBE think WHAT?


I would have to say no.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoolBoy*
> 
> Cheers from Hong Kong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am in!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Welcome aboard!


----------



## Heracles

Can someone explain what the new meaning for SFF is

(and are we still referring to Small form factor cases/builds as SFF?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heracles*
> 
> Can someone explain what the new meaning for SFF is
> 
> (and are we still referring to Small form factor cases/builds as SFF?


yessir. small form factor...

I had to ask the same question last week.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SReDQ*
> 
> I didn't realize there is another board for Rampage IV Black Edition.
> 
> Some guys here already saw my post in Hardware news.
> 
> I am very interested in buying this board, but I have a question I hope you (owners of RIVBE) can answer. Bold one below.
> 
> I am curious about one of its features, 4-Way Optimization. I read that performs Auto Tuning, which automatically overclocks the CPU to within ~95% of its potential, a process that typically could take up to 2 days to manually overclock.
> 
> Example of 4-Way Optimization:
> 1-Click Overclock to 4.8Ghz - 4-Way Optimization:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be useful for hardcore gamers, who have no time to tune manually. They want that program to achieve 95% of the way with minimal effort.
> 
> This auto-tuning can provide power efficiency, meaning volts are not fixed. They are fluctuating - energy saving. Having both energy saving + overclocking is something I like to have.
> 
> I heard that Republic of Gamer version only has generic 4.2, 4.4 and 4.6ghz stages, there is no dynamic options (that video or screenshot below the autotuning is shown with a few different options, Ratio Only, BCLK First etc and it runs a cycle on the TPU section to find a stable clock.). *Can you please confirm if RIVBE's 4-Way have dynamic options or just generic 4.2, 4.4, and 4.6ghz stages?*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Dynamic Options
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Generic three Stages (4.2, 4.4, and 4.6ghz)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We like to know more abilities of Rampage IV Black Edition!


Not sure if this was answered. The ai suite for this board is laid out extremely differently from the one JJ was covering and the best I could find was a 4.25 GHz profile saved into ai suite. I don't think this board offers the feature you inquired about.

It has the generic, but not the dynamic options, as far as I could find.

Edit: it's not 4.2, 4.4, 4.6. It's 4.017, 4.125, 4.250.


----------



## Raghar

Are we still at: "Heat rises up because hot air rises up and carries the heat"?

Also other stuff in this thread: "pump can be under table, it will not introduce strain, length of tubes do". Actually pump and radiators can be under table because the whole tubing is filled by water before pump is activated and the water up presses out the water that is bellow. If the pump would try to fill the plumbing from a water tank down, it would be in big trouble. When the system is balanced by being fully filled by water, the only things that introduces drag is tubes. (and radiators which needs to split water stream to large area which increases drag) I think two large area radiators might be a big trouble definitely require two low speed pump and might introduce quite big strain to tubing.


----------



## zucciniknife

Still waiting on my board from newegg









Off topic: Watching dreamhack and Swedish music is awesome. Too bad I don't speak Swedish; which also sucks for watching events.


----------



## skupples

Really? Still going with this? It's the mixing ram kit fiasco all over again. Iv'e yet to report a single soul in my entire existence on this forum, & I have received plenty of infractions & warning from Alancast. Please continue to prove how paranoid you are through blind accusations and ramblings. I'll go get some popcorn.

That picture was Justin Beiber, the picture was pulled & I was rightly warned for posting it.

Anyways, after driving around the entire Fort Lauderdale area seeking fine grit sand paper & 99% alcohol I am happy to report success. Though, I was unable to find 2500 grit, I found every other necessary grit for lapping. 400, 800, 1200, 1500, & 2000. Also got some rubbing compound for my dremel kit. Should have a perfectly lapped 3930k, Dynatron, & backplate. soo shiny. I could only find the rubbing alcohol in gallon form, but beggers can't be choosers.


----------



## kpoeticg

So...... the RIVE BE. It's really black. How does every1 feel about this?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> So...... the RIVE BE. It's really black. How does every1 feel about this?


I'm pretty sure it's racist against red people.

soo.... For some strange sick sadistic reason I decided buying bf4 for 19.99$ was a good idea.







Then I found out that you can't one shot kill people, but snipers are still as rampant as the black death in medieval Europe.


----------



## VertKiller

Question.

When figuring out what pump/s I want do I need to figure out the distance/ length of the loop. Also the size of rads? I do this for my aquarium pumps for proper flow. Do I need to do the same for the water loop. Is there a point of to much pressure before connecters start to leak?

I'm going rigid tubing. Would I even need to worry about pressure or is it about amount of flow with less pressure. I take it is the connecters that leak more often than busted hosing?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's racist against red people.
> 
> soo.... For some strange sick sadistic reason I decided buying bf4 for 19.99$ was a good idea.


Damn ******!!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Question.
> 
> When figuring out what pump/s I want do I need to figure out the distance/ length of the loop. Also the size of rads? I do this for my aquarium pumps for proper flow. Do I need to do the same for the water loop. Is there a point of to much pressure before connecters start to leak?
> 
> I'm going rigid tubing. Would I even need to worry about pressure or is it about amount of flow with less pressure. I take it is the connecters that leak more often than busted hosing?


If you're using a pump made for WC'ing like a D5 or DCC, u generally don't need to worry about that. Some Pond Pumps could have too much pressure. Alot of people like to go for a 1.5GPM flowrate, which you can set easily with a D5 or DDC. Some people use 2 for quieter operation and redundancy in case one fails

General rule of thumb is 240 for CPU + 120 per block for rads as a minimum


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's racist against red people.
> 
> soo.... For some strange sick sadistic reason I decided buying bf4 for 19.99$ was a good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I found out that you can't one shot kill people, but snipers are still as rampant as the black death in medieval Europe.


Hahaha. I bought it too. I'm not even sure why considering I hadn't touched BF3 since it's launch. If it wasn't on sale...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Hahaha. I bought it too. I'm not even sure why considering I hadn't touched BF3 since it's launch. If it wasn't on sale...


I quit playing BF3 as soon as I saw the whole laser in eye when scoping thingamajig.

btw, my EK supremacy elite box shows "lga 115x kit" but i'm almost positive these are supposed to be 100% universal for all intel sockets... Guess i'll find out for sure when I tare this system down next week.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you're using a pump made for WC'ing like a D5 or DCC, u generally don't need to worry about that. Some Pond Pumps could have too much pressure. Alot of people like to go for a 1.5GPM flowrate, which you can set easily with a D5 or DDC. Some people use 2 for quieter operation and redundancy in case one fails
> 
> General rule of thumb is 240 for CPU + 120 per block for rads as a minimum


Actually, I have 2 D5s for 2 thick 360mm radiators and 3 blocks. It's way too much at full voltage so I disconnected one of them. They're molex and not PWM, but I haven't been able to find any Molex->3 or 4 pin fan connector to plug into my fan controller. Does anyone have any adapter suggestions?


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I quit playing BF3 as soon as I saw the whole laser in eye when scoping thingamajig.
> 
> btw, my EK supremacy elite box shows "lga 115x kit" but i'm almost positive these are supposed to be 100% universal for all intel sockets... Guess i'll find out for sure when I tare this system down next week.


I can't remember which EK Supremacy block I bought, but it seemed to come with all of the necessary hardware for everything as old as LGA 1366. Don't forget to use the right jet plate. I had to change mine out.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> I can't remember which EK Supremacy block I bought, but it seemed to come with all of the necessary hardware for everything as old as LGA 1366. Don't forget to use the right jet plate. I had to change mine out.


E-series plate is the biggest one I believe. The one with the biggest opening I should say.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i think it's either J3 or J4 jetplate. Def the one with the widest channels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Actually, I have 2 D5s for 2 thick 360mm radiators and 3 blocks. It's way too much at full voltage so I disconnected one of them. They're molex and not PWM, but I haven't been able to find any Molex->3 or 4 pin fan connector to plug into my fan controller. Does anyone have any adapter suggestions?


Well depends on the D5. The D5 Vario has a trimpot knob on it to change speeds between 1-5. Koolance sells a controller aimed at voltage controlling pumps like that. The Aquaero would work too. It's really not that hard to rewire connectors yourself

HERE



You won't find one with all 3 wires in it cuz the 3rd wire on a fan connector is RPM signal and 3rd wire on a Molex is Ground for the 5v


----------



## LunaP

AH are there any black friday sales right now for CPU /GPU blocks?
Same w/ acrylic tubing and RAD's , if anyone knows would appreciate it!

Just got done giving steam my mortgage money w/ all the sales going on


----------



## kpoeticg

Sorry. Thought it was appropriate

PerformancePCs has a few rads for sale. I don't think FCPU or PPCs have any recent blocks for sale for black friday. I've been through both sites a few times. Moddiy has like 20% off the entire site i think. Mayhem has like 30%

That's all the WC sales i know of

PPCs, just go to the Clearance/Scratch&Dent/Black Friday section
FCPU has a link from the home page

Seinheiser has a decent sale right now too for any1 that needs headphones


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you're using a pump made for WC'ing like a D5 or DCC, u generally don't need to worry about that. Some Pond Pumps could have too much pressure. Alot of people like to go for a 1.5GPM flowrate, which you can set easily with a D5 or DDC. Some people use 2 for quieter operation and redundancy in case one fails
> 
> General rule of thumb is 240 for CPU + 120 per block for rads as a minimum


So distance traveled or height has no equation to a loop?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you're using a pump made for WC'ing like a D5 or DCC, u generally don't need to worry about that. Some Pond Pumps could have too much pressure. Alot of people like to go for a 1.5GPM flowrate, which you can set easily with a D5 or DDC. Some people use 2 for quieter operation and redundancy in case one fails
> 
> General rule of thumb is 240 for CPU + 120 per block for rads as a minimum
> 
> 
> 
> So distance traveled or height has no equation to a loop?
Click to expand...

Not really,it depends on restriction....even then,people massively over emphasize flow rates in loop performance


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah it would really take alot of WC components to max out a D5 or especially a MCP35x. Most people just use 2 cuz you can run them at lower RPM's and achieve the same flowrate which = quieter. And if one pump fails in a dual pump setup, you can still use your rig while your waiting for a new pump


----------



## szeged

i just use a hand pump


----------



## LunaP

Oh yeah can you guys show me the best recommended pump to compliment this board + a TH10 w/ 4x 480 RADS and possibly 1x 240 or 360? I'll probably get 2 just in case.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> So distance traveled or height has no equation to a loop?


Yes distance and height do make a difference but it is so small you will not see it in a computer case. I think what you are referencing is the post that was made about putting a pump on the floor and then on the refrigerator. It does not matter where you put the pump in the case because of it being a closed loop, thus your flow rate will be the same... what kpoeticg was trying to say is that the pumps we use for watercooling in a PC are designed for this and the specifications are such that you will have enough flow and not too much pressure through a normal loop. Now if you have a large loop with lots of waterblocks and radiators then you might need more than 1 pump just to maintain enough flow but usually it is just for redundancy.. I hope this helps and you understand what I am trying to say if not let me know and I or someone else will explain it better.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Oh yeah can you guys show me the best recommended pump to compliment this board + a TH10 w/ 4x 480 RADS and possibly 1x 240 or 360? I'll probably get 2 just in case.


i installed one of these at work last month, ill go bust it loose for you if you want



feeds hot water to a 7 story building from 3 miles away, i think it might be enough for 4 rads.


----------



## marc0053

Can anyone confirm the quality of this RIV-BE onboard sound and if it is worth ditching an ASUS xonar essence STX sound card for this?
I find the sound card looks ugly in a fully watercooled rig.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i just use a hand pump



















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Oh yeah can you guys show me the best recommended pump to compliment this board + a TH10 w/ 4x 480 RADS and possibly 1x 240 or 360? I'll probably get 2 just in case.


It depends on your personal preference. Rads have very little restriction. To put it simply, D5/MCP655_ are quieter but larger & DDC 3._/MCP35_ are smaller but louder
The smaller size of the MCP35x type pumps also make them create more heat (at least i think that's the reason). If you can fit dual D5's (which you most definitely can







) that's usually the preferred setup
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yes distance and height do make a difference but it is so small you will not see it in a computer case. I think what you are referencing is the post that was made about putting a pump on the floor and then on the refrigerator. It does not matter where you put the pump in the case because of it being a closed loop, thus your flow rate will be the same... what kpoeticg was trying to say is that the pumps we use for watercooling in a PC are designed for this and the specifications are such that you will have enough flow and not too much pressure through a normal loop. Now if you have a large loop with lots of waterblocks and radiators then you might need more than 1 pump just to maintain enough flow but usually it is just for redundancy.. I hope this helps and you understand what I am trying to say if not let me know and I or someone else will explain it better.


^^Yeah, better explanation of what i was trying to say








If you check out his build log, you'll see the type of rig that could actually benefit by more than 1 pump as far as flowrate.....


----------



## VertKiller

Thanks. I understand now.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Oh yeah can you guys show me the best recommended pump to compliment this board + a TH10 w/ 4x 480 RADS and possibly 1x 240 or 360? I'll probably get 2 just in case.


I would get a dual D-5 Pump top with a large tube radiator, EK and Bitspower both make some nice ones comes down to personal preference. but with that case you will have room for this. but that is my personal preferancle and some people might tell you to get Swiftech MCP35X2 and put a reservoir on it or if you want to use those pumps other companies make nice tops for them also.. XSPC makes a clear double or even triple pump top for these pumps...

If you want I can link you to some just let me know???


----------



## skupples

From what I understand MCP35x pump styles mostly dump heat externally.

#1 rule that CAN NOT BE BROKEN when water cooling. RES ABOVE PUMP/PUMP BELOW RES.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> From what I understand MCP35x pump styles mostly dump heat externally.
> 
> #1 rule that CAN NOT BE BROKEN when water cooling. RES ABOVE PUMP/PUMP BELOW RES.


What about system that has no Reservoir???


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> So...... the RIVE BE. It's really black. How does every1 feel about this?


Should I get it from Germany, or should I wait week more until it would appear in shops near me. Getting it from Germany can cause problems and delays with RMA, on the other hand the shop I bought CPU from is known for adding a small extra to the price.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> soo.... For some strange sick sadistic reason I decided buying bf4 for 19.99$ was a good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I found out that you can't one shot kill people, but snipers are still as rampant as the black death in medieval Europe.


Aside of few known periods it was next to nonexistant. Are snipers that rare? You didn't see them on 5 maps in the row, then you see 30 of them on one map.
(One was because they kept poor underfed and acted as jerks to them, combined with bit of overpopulation. The second was a simple import from India, when they did more of distant trade. Also they thought that who complains against fleas is coward.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> What about system that has no Reservoir???


Pump should be at the bottom.


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

Sweet mother of overclocking Batman!!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> From what I understand MCP35x pump styles mostly dump heat externally.
> 
> #1 rule that CAN NOT BE BROKEN when water cooling. RES ABOVE PUMP/PUMP BELOW RES.


I didn't mean to imply that it dumps heat in the loop. But they tend to burn out quicker because of it (not always)
That's why the Swiftech and EK DDC heatsinks are a good idea for them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Should I get it from Germany, or should I wait week more until it would appear in shops near me. Getting it from Germany can cause problems and delays with RMA, on the other hand the shop I bought CPU from is known for adding a small extra to the price.


I just said that about the color to try and sway the conversation back








Depends how patient u are







If it's actually "In Stock" at the German site, it's not a bad idea to jump on it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> From what I understand MCP35x pump styles mostly dump heat externally.
> 
> #1 rule that CAN NOT BE BROKEN when water cooling. RES ABOVE PUMP/PUMP BELOW RES.


Actually Skupples it dumps heat into the water also. a measurable amount. it is not a big deal as it is a small amount but you can actually see it. think about it if it is getting hot enough to need a heat sink then it will transfer some to the water...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PROBN4LYFE*
> 
> 
> Sweet mother of overclocking Batman!!!!

















Now that is SEXY......

I want this board and hope I will be able to find one along with the Motherboard water blocks the middle of January!!!! Because it will be mine!!!!!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Actually Skupples it dumps heat into the water also. a measurable amount. it is not a big deal as it is a small amount but you can actually see it. think about it if it is getting hot enough to need a heat sink then it will transfer some to the water...


Makes plenty of sense. I figured I might as well pick it up for my mcp35x2+maelstrom, though it's now an obscenely large piece of hardware. Takes up 3 bays.


----------



## hanzy

According to the other RIVBE thread Newegg is getting ~500 in sometime next week.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Can anyone confirm the quality of this RIV-BE onboard sound and if it is worth ditching an ASUS xonar essence STX sound card for this?
> I find the sound card looks ugly in a fully watercooled rig.


All I have used for sound are headphones so far and some Klipsch 2.1 speakers. It sounds quite good, as good as my Xonar in my other rig but I have not as yet tested it with my big amps and my Bose and B&W speakers and a scope. I have never used on board sound before but I am hoping that this will live up to expectations. I hope to get to that point (of testing) some time next week.


----------



## Raghar

Did someone measure DPC latencies already?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Did someone measure DPC latencies already?


What??

What is that?? New to me?? Help me!!


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Did someone measure DPC latencies already?
> 
> 
> 
> What??
> 
> What is that?? New to me?? Help me!!
Click to expand...

DPC Latency Checker v.1.30

you can download it here

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/30530-latest-overclocking-programs-system-info-benchmarking-stability-tools.html


----------



## Arm3nian

Finally ordered all my parts. Soon this board will see some action.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PROBN4LYFE*
> 
> 
> Sweet mother of overclocking Batman!!!!


FYI: that's a pre-release version of the board with the white lettering on it like that. The boards being shipped look like this ...


----------



## skupples

I'M SO PISSED. My tilde key stopped working in COD4 -starwars.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FYI: that's a pre-release version of the board with the white lettering on it like that. The boards being shipped look like this ...


thats alright I have some paint and a small brush I can make it look like that with what ever color I want!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I think it looks a LOT better without the ugly white lettering.

The only things I'm seriously thinking about painting over with some Plasti-Dip is the red 'Republic of Gamers' logo and the Start button, and I will be disabling the ROG logo and the red audio led separation line in the BIOS from lighting up. .


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I think it looks a LOT better without the ugly white lettering.
> 
> The only things I'm seriously thinking about painting over with some Plasti-Dip is the red 'Republic of Gamers' logo and the Start button, and I will be disabling the ROG logo and the red audio led separation line in the BIOS from lighting up. .


the white lettering is personal preferance and as for as the led Logo I will put the board under water so this will not get there. good idea with the other red items!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FYI: that's a pre-release version of the board with the white lettering on it like that. The boards being shipped look like this ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


U sure that isn't a reflection?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> U sure that isn't a reflection?


I'm sure. Every photo from every angle of those pre-release boards had 100% white lettering, not at all like you have shown. They apparently ditched it at some point between then and the release. I'm glad they did. Looks MUCH better imho.

Here's another pre-release shot from the ROG forum announcement page:


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, looks like you're right. When i got my board i noticed the difference from the pre-release pics, but i never went back and checked the difference

I like the white better, but just cuz it suits my build


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> Seross69 "Got to have a doublewide to have room for anything I hate having a cramped case." I have one of these lian li pc-d8000, the d is for double wide. lian li is also coming out with a pc-d600 soon. It's just not as big as the d8000. http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/pc-d600/
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_204&products_id=35873 The d8000 is barren inside, but it has lots of room for most things & still not enough for others. tricky part is putting screws in 5 1/4" drive bays. I had to screw in the shallow devices 1st ( card reader, fan controller) & then screw in the deeper devices (dvd, bluray)
> 
> 
> 
> I have a *TX-10D*
> 
> The best Case made... thanks for the link's..
Click to expand...

yea finally oked with getting this and giving my wife my M8 ( ONLY M8 with drop in rads in population, the only other one made is @ caselabs ) wont be doing the purchase till after Christmas though
i am sick of wanting to upgrade or needing to due to space, so i figure i will just get the biggest ever built ( and probably the biggest that will ever be built ) and be happy, + i can just run 2 systems in it if i want amd + intel and have best of both worlds tbh i think caselabs cases look better then any desk pc case. imo so i am ditching that idea too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkhacker2*
> 
> RIVE upgrade to RIVEBE think WHAT?


depends on what you think about the new features

1 less usb3.0 header
wifi+blue tooth built in
better memory ocs for the best part ( whether or not the ram is rated for it )
better placement of pcie additional power port
all black
and a few other minor additions ( no more ockey, the oc panel instead.... )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoolBoy*
> 
> Cheers from Hong Kong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am in!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


congrats !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Question.
> 
> When figuring out what pump/s I want do I need to figure out the distance/ length of the loop. Also the size of rads? I do this for my aquarium pumps for proper flow. Do I need to do the same for the water loop. Is there a point of to much pressure before connecters start to leak?
> 
> I'm going rigid tubing. Would I even need to worry about pressure or is it about amount of flow with less pressure. I take it is the connecters that leak more often than busted hosing?


not really assuming you are using traditional pumps
you mostly only need 1 pump. i have 3 as all 4 gpus are in parallel and it takes some oomph to get them all flowing ( probably will be switching to 4/5 pumps but i really dont need to )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> From what I understand MCP35x pump styles mostly dump heat externally.
> 
> #1 rule that CAN NOT BE BROKEN when water cooling. RES ABOVE PUMP/PUMP BELOW RES.
> 
> 
> 
> What about system that has no Reservoir???
Click to expand...

ironically i am running one loop without it .... and i have to say it works excellent ( thank god for qdcs, which i use for bleeding/filling ) and have very little air in the loop
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, looks like you're right. When i got my board i noticed the difference from the pre-release pics, but i never went back and checked the difference
> 
> I like the white better, but just cuz it suits my build


has anyone tried to remove the i/o cover yet from the heatpipe ? ( without cutting said heatpipe )

sidenote... my label has yet to be scanned by ups.... getting impatient any one else from ncix get their board without updates from ups?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea finally oked with getting this and giving my wife my M8 ( ONLY M8 with drop in rads in population, the only other one made is @ caselabs ) wont be doing the purchase till after Christmas though
> i am sick of wanting to upgrade or needing to due to space, so i figure i will just get the biggest ever built ( and probably the biggest that will ever be built ) and be happy, + i can just run 2 systems in it if i want amd + intel and have best of both worlds tbh i think caselabs cases look better then any desk pc case. imo so i am ditching that idea too


Ugh lol , originally I thought that thing was just beyond huge (TX-10D)

But after thinking about it 2 PC's inside one case WOULD be quite nice, though I think I'll stick w/ the TH10 for now and maybe down the line after I get a new house I'll grab it, as for now I can't imagining ever moving it once you have it all setup LOL. TH10 could fit in an SUV I just don't know about getting a TX-10D in one









As for the UPS labels, most of us didn't get updates for the first 48-56 hours so not sure, were you one of the original pre-orderer's? Hopefully they're not starting their games again. Though it WAS Thanksgiving yesterday.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea finally oked with getting this and giving my wife my M8 ( ONLY M8 with drop in rads in population, the only other one made is @ caselabs ) wont be doing the purchase till after Christmas though
> i am sick of wanting to upgrade or needing to due to space, so i figure i will just get the biggest ever built ( and probably the biggest that will ever be built ) and be happy, + i can just run 2 systems in it if i want amd + intel and have best of both worlds tbh i think caselabs cases look better then any desk pc case. imo so i am ditching that idea too
> 
> 
> 
> Ugh lol , originally I thought that thing was just beyond huge (TX-10D)
> 
> But after thinking about it 2 PC's inside one case WOULD be quite nice, though I think I'll stick w/ the TH10 for now and maybe down the line after I get a new house I'll grab it, as for now I can't imagining ever moving it once you have it all setup LOL. TH10 could fit in an SUV I just don't know about getting a TX-10D in one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the UPS labels, most of us didn't get updates for the first 48-56 hours so not sure, were you one of the original pre-orderer's? Hopefully they're not starting their games again. Though it WAS Thanksgiving yesterday.
Click to expand...

haha that is why
1 i have a truck
2 i have a hemi in said truck XD
3 castors + ramps
it has been 3 days !!!! going crazy dang canadian ups !
the thing i si have a amd quadfire setup, since i now have a 3930k/4930k ( will be getting soon ) figure why not do the same with r9 290xs ( waiting for komodos to be released, sorry ek but komodos are the single sexaist cooler available, only thing that comes close is blower style cards.... the crappy thing about the new gen amd cards.... you can no longer make then single slot.... but i have an idea on how to fix that, i am going to try to make it to where i can put a low profile bracket in after the DVI port ! )


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ugh lol , originally I thought that thing was just beyond huge (TX-10D)
> 
> But after thinking about it 2 PC's inside one case WOULD be quite nice, though I think I'll stick w/ the TH10 for now and maybe down the line after I get a new house I'll grab it, as for now I can't imagining ever moving it once you have it all setup LOL. TH10 could fit in an SUV I just don't know about getting a TX-10D in one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the UPS labels, most of us didn't get updates for the first 48-56 hours so not sure, were you one of the original pre-orderer's? Hopefully they're not starting their games again. Though it WAS Thanksgiving yesterday.


Hey LunaP the great thing about a TX10-D is that it pays for its self. I currently have a room in mine rented out so in a couple more months I will have collected enough rent to pay for the case!!!


----------



## szeged

decided the 900D wasnt big enough for a RIVEBE and a classy 780ti











gonna finish ordering on monday since what if my house explodes over the weekend and i need $685?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> decided the 900D wasnt big enough for a RIVEBE and a classy 780ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna finish ordering on monday since what if my house explodes over the weekend and i need $685?


Well if you odered the TX10-D you would have a place to sleep if your house blows up!!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Well if you odered the TX10-D you would have a place to sleep if your house blows up!!!


haha







i dont think i would be able to properly fill a tx10 atm







i need a few monsta rads for that


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i dont think i would be able to properly fill a tx10 atm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i need a few monsta rads for that


well like I said you would have a place to sleep. You are bored at home and I am bored at work....

not as easy to get bored at home for me since I have someone to play with







.. Can awwwwwwww never mind!!!!


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> decided the 900D wasnt big enough for a RIVEBE and a classy 780ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna finish ordering on monday since what if my house explodes over the weekend and i need $685?


I have my RIVBE in that case. I absolutely love this case. All the room in the world without looking ridiculous.

BTW you're going to want to order some flex bay fan adaptors if you want fans in the front.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> decided the 900D wasnt big enough for a RIVEBE and a classy 780ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna finish ordering on monday since what if my house explodes over the weekend and i need $685?


congrats, but you have to go double wide !!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> congrats, but you have to go double wide !!!


I already told him that but we will see. I really don't know why one one would get a single wide????


----------



## Mega Man

amen !


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Hey LunaP the great thing about a TX10-D is that it pays for its self. I currently have a room in mine rented out so in a couple more months I will have collected enough rent to pay for the case!!!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> decided the 900D wasnt big enough for a RIVEBE and a classy 780ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna finish ordering on monday since what if my house explodes over the weekend and i need $685?


Grats though I don't know why the cost is so close to the TH10 D: In fact thats about the same I spent w/ 5 additonal parts. Either way it's the only single wide case I'd ever consider so looking forward to the build log









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> congrats, but you have to go double wide !!!


Most do during Thanksgiving


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grats though I don't know why the cost is so close to the TH10 D: In fact thats about the same I spent w/ 5 additonal parts. Either way it's the only single wide case I'd ever consider so looking forward to the build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most do during Thanksgiving


They raised the th10 cost, it was $529 before.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> They raised the th10 cost, it was $529 before.


Holiday price jacks. It will go back down after X-mas. I'm planning to pickup a double wide @ some point early next year. I'm disgusted with 900D.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> They raised the th10 cost, it was $529 before.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Holiday price jacks. It will go back down after X-mas. I'm planning to pickup a double wide @ some point early next year. I'm disgusted with 900D.


Wut...







since when its been the same price each time I've put it in my cart for the past 2 months D: damnit 5xx woulda been so much easier than 7xx to swallow. _._


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wut...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> since when its been the same price each time I've put it in my cart for the past 2 months D: damnit 5xx woulda been so much easier than 7xx to swallow. _._


I thought you were trading the second board for a case?


----------



## seross69

^ yeah someone said that??


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wut...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> since when its been the same price each time I've put it in my cart for the past 2 months D: damnit 5xx woulda been so much easier than 7xx to swallow. _._




Case itself was $529


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I thought you were trading the second board for a case?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> ^ yeah someone said that??


Pretty much as he was just paying me back for buying the board so I was converting that to CL Cash.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 
> 
> Case itself was $529


damn.... Wish I woulda known sooner , that sucks lol.


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I already told him that but we will see. I really don't know why one one would get a single wide????


Why not? Maybe he prefers the look and layout of the STH10 as many others do. The nice thing about the STH10 is the base frame includes 2 separate pedestal compartments that are kept isolated from the middle compartment. You can have all of your radiators in the STH10 completely hidden from view and isolated from the motherboard/windowed chamber. With the double-wide T10/TH10 you will be able to see at least one (potentially 2) radiator through the window at all times unless you come up with a mod to conceal it (or unless you choose not to use any radiators on the motherboard side which kind of defeats the purpose of the case).

Here's a decent example of what I'm trying to get at:



^^ I don't really like being able to see the rads/fans & 5.25 bay devices when looking through my case window. I like it nice & clean with maybe just a reservoir + dual pump top for aesthetics. The STH10 layout allows you to have a cleaner looking motherboard-side of the build imo.

Another (albeit minor) difference with the STH10 is you have your radiators taking in nothing but cool, fresh ambient air and no recycled or pre-heated air from having passed through the rad fins and case once already -- I really like the isolated radiator compartments of the STH10 and they're the main reason I chose it over the TH10.

All that being said, in the end it's personal preference really -- a lot like standard vs reverse ATX layouts. I don't think you can say that the TH10 is "better" than the STH10 or vice versa. It all depends what you plan on doing and how you want the end result to look. "Better", in this case (pardon the pun







) -- is relative to each individual and their respective build.

I will say, though, that the TH10 with pedestals is bad-ass and objectively superior to the vanilla STH10 but that puts it quite a ways ahead of the STH10 in terms of price. If I ever sell my STH10 I'll probably buy a TH10 but only with the intention of using it with at least one pedestal compartment


----------



## szeged

while having the extra space of the TX10-D would be great, i fell in love with the sth10 the minute i laid eyes on it when it released







one of the reasons i went with a 900D was because it was a cheapo version of it (imo) at the time, so i just went with that lol.

all personal preference, degenn is spot on with his post


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Why not? Maybe he prefers the look and layout of the STH10 as many others do. The nice thing about the STH10 is the base frame includes 2 separate pedestal compartments that are kept isolated from the middle compartment. You can have all of your radiators in the STH10 completely hidden from view and isolated from the motherboard/windowed chamber. With the double-wide T10/TH10 you will be able to see at least one (potentially 2) radiator through the window at all times unless you come up with a mod to conceal it (or unless you choose not to use any radiators on the motherboard side which kind of defeats the purpose of the case).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a decent example of what I'm trying to get at:
> 
> 
> 
> ^^ I don't really like being able to see the rads/fans & 5.25 bay devices when looking through my case window. I like it nice & clean with maybe just a reservoir + dual pump top for aesthetics. The STH10 layout allows you to have a cleaner looking motherboard-side of the build imo.
> 
> Another (albeit minor) difference with the STH10 is you have your radiators taking in nothing but cool, fresh ambient air and no recycled or pre-heated air from having passed through the rad fins and case once already -- I really like the isolated radiator compartments of the STH10 and they're the main reason I chose it over the TH10.
> 
> All that being said, in the end it's personal preference really -- a lot like standard vs reverse ATX layouts. I don't think you can say that the TH10 is "better" than the STH10 or vice versa. It all depends what you plan on doing and how you want the end result to look. "Better", in this case (pardon the pun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) -- is relative to each individual and their respective build.
> 
> I will say, though, that the TH10 with pedestals is bad-ass and objectively superior to the vanilla STH10 but that puts it quite a ways ahead of the STH10 in terms of price. If I ever sell my STH10 I'll probably buy a TH10 but only with the intention of using it with at least one pedestal compartment


You are 100% right and I was trying to joke and not insult anyone sorry for this.. I also dont want to see the rads and want double wide that is why I think the TX10-D is the perfect case.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> You are 100% right and I was trying to joke and not insult anyone sorry for this.. I also dont want to see the rads and want double wide that is why I think the TX10-D is the perfect case.


i got the joke







no insult taken









i actually kind of like seeing the rad's in a build, if done right, they can look pretty awesome i think.


----------



## Arm3nian

With the XXL window on the TH10 you can't see the top rad or the 5.25 devices. You can't see the bottom one either unless looking down on it. If you look through the window at an angle then you can see the rads, and I personally want to because my black ice rads look awesome.

As for the fresh air, I actually prefer the rads in the same compartment because not everything is watercooled. Most do not watercool their motherboard or ram, and air passing over them is good. Same for the GPU, not every component on the pcb is watercooled, and if you have blocks that extend to the end of the pcb then the hot air gets trapped and doesn't go anywhere because there is no airflow.


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> You are 100% right and I was trying to joke and not insult anyone sorry for this.. I also dont want to see the rads and want double wide that is why I think the TX10-D is the perfect case.


Ah my bad, I missed the joke









On the other hand I definitely didn't get the impression you were trying to incite argument/insult anyone so no worries there just friendly discussion







. Hope I didn't give the impression that I was upset. We're all on the same boat here, the USS Enthusiast!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i got the joke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no insult taken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i actually kind of like seeing the rad's in a build, if done right, they can look pretty awesome i think.


Yeah that's the main reason I went with the Enthoo Primo is because it's got room for up to 480 monstas in the top & in the bottom in push-pull (though in the top I'm only putting an XT45 myself so I don't have to obscure my beautiful mobo. lol) and puts them where you can see them in the window. I sorta prefer being able to see the whole loop through the window in a case, as opposed to when tubes disappear into another section where I have to guess where they went and what they're hooked up to. Only thing I definitely want hidden from view is the PSU and all the cables, which is another thing that attracted me to the Enthoo Primo.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

oops - double post


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> i got the joke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no insult taken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i actually kind of like seeing the rad's in a build, if done right, they can look pretty awesome i think.


Hehe, I hear ya and I agree, it's mainly the fans as some rads (SR-1's) can look nice -- there's that personal preference thing again!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> With the XXL window on the TH10 you can't see the top rad or the 5.25 devices. You can't see the bottom one either unless looking down on it. If you look through the window at an angle then you can see the rads, and I personally want to because my black ice rads look awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> As for the fresh air, I actually prefer the rads in the same compartment because not everything is watercooled. Most do not watercool their motherboard or ram, and air passing over them is good. Same for the GPU, not every component on the pcb is watercooled, and if you have blocks that extend to the end of the pcb then the hot air gets trapped and doesn't go anywhere because there is no airflow.


Indeed, this is why you use some 5.25 bays to install intake fans and then the obvious exhaust fan at the rear of the case -- could also install some fans above the motherboard either firing down over the VRM's or up/out as an additional exhaust point.

That's why I love CaseLabs -- they think of everything and the options are pretty much limitless! Amazing customer service to boot!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Indeed, this is why you use some 5.25 bays to install intake fans and then the obvious exhaust fan at the rear of the case -- could also install some fans above the motherboard either firing down over the VRM's or up/out as an additional exhaust point.
> 
> That's why I love CaseLabs -- they think of everything and the options are pretty much limitless! Amazing customer service to boot!


Yeah you can install fans on top and on the bottom of the motherboard on the STH10, would cost more $ though, I'm already in debt after spending 5 hours ordering parts


----------



## seross69

Guys Check the news and see what they did in Kiev Ukraine last night!!!!!!


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Yeah you can install fans on top and on the bottom of the motherboard on the STH10, would cost more $ though, I'm already in debt after spending 5 hours ordering parts


Let us join hands in a moment of silence for Arm3nian's dearly departed









It will be sincerely missed by his savings account











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



huehehehe













































(sorry, it's getting late and I may be slightly inebriated)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Guys Check the news and see what they did in Kiev Ukraine last night!!!!!!


Yeah, there's a few people that apparently didn't like it when Yanukovych kowtowed to Putin to drop out of joining the EU. Looks like the police are busting it up though.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> I will say, though, that the TH10 with pedestals is bad-ass and objectively superior to the vanilla STH10 but that puts it quite a ways ahead of the STH10 in terms of price. If I ever sell my STH10 I'll probably buy a TH10 but only with the intention of using it with at least one pedestal compartment


I thought about the STH10 for a while but wasn't sure if I'd be able to fit 4x 480 rad's (in push pull ) + 2x PSU's + a 360 RAD + 2 pumps and still have room to stack in my Storage drives , though I did see the small compartment on the side for the SSD's its the opticals/3.5's I was worried about. Was under the impression if you put in a PSU that side needs a 360 to fit, and I'm aiming for super quiet hence the multiples, though I've seen some incredibly sexy builds with them though.

I asked my friend on the phone to go to the caselabs site and tell me which he liked better between the MH10 and TH10 since I was debating between them, and he came back saying STH10 lol.

as for the TH10 I'm debating if I want to get the pedestal or not lol, not sure how I'd have the airflow though, --> --> or --> <--- or <-- -->









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i got the joke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no insult taken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i actually kind of like seeing the rad's in a build, if done right, they can look pretty awesome i think.


^ This as well, probably since I'm new to WC and the amount of time we put into finding fans that are aesthetically pleasing its nice to see your own work









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah that's the main reason I went with the Enthoo Primo is because it's got room for up to 480 monstas in the top & in the bottom in push-pull .


Just wanna verify w/ the monstas you have they have 6 ports right, you can literally go in whichever IN port you want and whichver OUT port as well correct? If so this def helps me determine what types of rad's go where for strategic stealthing of tubes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> That's why I love CaseLabs -- they think of everything and the options are pretty much limitless! Amazing customer service to boot!


Yeah they've answered all 9000 emails I've sent them over the course of the last couple months. I originally came on here debating between the Cosmos II and the 900D lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

Damnnnn, that's alot of radspace. What are you cooling?
Also, Monsta's & UT60's have 7 ports altogether, 6 that can be used for in/out ports and 1 that you can put an air exhaust fitting into


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, there's a few people that apparently didn't like it when Yanukovych kowtowed to Putin to drop out of joining the EU. Looks like the police are busting it up though.


Yeah my wife is from there it is a lot worse than they are telling they have shut down cell phones, trying to shut down social sites to stop people from contacting the west!!!! doing everything they can to stop this from becoming know in the world. or at least how bad it is... my wife cant contact her mom on internet or phone... the talked earlier but it just went dead. now just beep beep!!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I thought about the STH10 for a while but wasn't sure if I'd be able to fit 4x 480 rad's (in push pull ) + 2x PSU's + a 360 RAD + 2 pumps and still have room to stack in my Storage drives , though I did see the small compartment on the side for the SSD's its the opticals/3.5's I was worried about. Was under the impression if you put in a PSU that side needs a 360 to fit, and I'm aiming for super quiet hence the multiples, though I've seen some incredibly sexy builds with them though.
> 
> I asked my friend on the phone to go to the caselabs site and tell me which he liked better between the MH10 and TH10 since I was debating between them, and he came back saying STH10 lol.
> 
> as for the TH10 I'm debating if I want to get the pedestal or not lol, not sure how I'd have the airflow though, --> --> or --> <--- or <-- -->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ This as well, probably since I'm new to WC and the amount of time we put into finding fans that are aesthetically pleasing its nice to see your own work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanna verify w/ the monstas you have they have 6 ports right, you can literally go in whichever IN port you want and whichver OUT port as well correct? If so this def helps me determine what types of rad's go where for strategic stealthing of tubes.
> Yeah they've answered all 9000 emails I've sent them over the course of the last couple months. I originally came on here debating between the Cosmos II and the 900D lol.


LunaP to me the STH can fit those rads better than the TH10.. You can put monsters in the top chamber and 2 in the bottom chamber and the 360 in the bays up front...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> [..] Just wanna verify w/ the monstas you have they have 6 ports right, you can literally go in whichever IN port you want and whichver OUT port as well correct? If so this def helps me determine what types of rad's go where for strategic stealthing of tubes. [...]


Alphacool monstas (& UT60s) have 7 ports. There's 6 useable for running tubes to on the business end - two up, two down, and two on the end, and then on the other end of the rad there's another port for using as a fill port / drain plug. They also come with 5 copper plugs for the ports you won't need to be using.



Do note that the monstas are 85mm thick. A lot of places have them incorrectly spec'd to 80mm, but trust me, they are 85mm.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> LunaP to me the STH can fit those rads better than the TH10.. You can put monsters in the top chamber and 2 in the bottom chamber and the 360 in the bays up front...


Yeah but in push/pull config for all 4? what about the PSU's and dual pumps? I know I can put the RES in the main area near the board the opticals and 360 will fill up the front. After that though the 3.5's?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Alphacool monstas (& UT60s) have 7 ports. There's 6 useable for running tubes to on the business end - two up, two down, and two on the end, and then on the other end of the rad there's another port for using as a fill port / drain plug. They also come with 5 copper plugs for the ports you won't need to be using.


OOOH I was under the impression from what a couple people were telling me a bit back was that there are 2 ports on the side where you mentioned the drain plug is , which is why I was thinking it'd be awesome having something like that to to in one side and out the other ( non X - Flow)


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yeah my wife is from there it is a lot worse than they are telling they have shut down cell phones, trying to shut down social sites to stop people from contacting the west!!!! doing everything they can to stop this from becoming know in the world. or at least how bad it is... my wife cant contact her mom on internet or phone... the talked earlier but it just went dead. now just beep beep!!!


whats happening? i cant find it anywhere?


----------



## Mega Man

as for the monsters you can use any of the ports, as they are on oppisite sides (left and right, so you have 2sets of 3 ports to choose from, so hard to edit on phone


----------



## kpoeticg

The drain plug/fill port/air exhaust port is on the opposite end tank. There's 6 on one end, 1 on the other


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> [...] OOOH I was under the impression from what a couple people were telling me a bit back was that there are 2 ports on the side where you mentioned the drain plug is , which is why I was thinking it'd be awesome having something like that to to in one side and out the other ( non X - Flow)


You probably wouldn't want to run tubes to ports on the end where the drain plug is at anyway because the flow goes in a big u-shape down the length of the rad and back again (think that's true for all rads except for crossflows) and any tubes connected to a port on that end would only be getting half of the flow thru the rad.

Here, Alphacool's cutaway shots sorta show what I mean. You can see all the channels that travel all the way down that side of the rad, where in the end where the drain/fill port is at the flow gets redirected back up the other side.


----------



## Coppermonkey

So for those of you who own the black edition, I'm coming into 2011 this January with my upgrade and I honestly cant decide between the normal version and the black edition. Do you find the black edition bonuses to be worth it? For those of you who may have owned both versions of the board, do you prefer one set of features over the other?


----------



## jamiee

*7AM And the build ... IS ON !!!*

 


*Note:* For any of you building in the AIR 540 and intend to replace the stock case fans with Air Series AF140's....
You will need to cut part of the rubber grommet on two of the AF140 corners for the rear case fan position. The metal structure of the case is folded over and interferes with proper positioning of the fan.
The stock fans don't have this rubber grommet so they easily slide into position, the AF140's however need a little modification.
The other options would be to cut the case itself or completely remove the rubber grommets from the fan (neither of which makes much sense to me). A simple channel cut into the rubber with a sharp knife is all that's needed.

The front intake fan positions are OK and don't require any modifying


----------



## RSharpe

So.... how much voltage are you guys willing to put into your IB-Es for a 24/7 overclock on a decent water loop?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> So.... how much voltage are you guys willing to put into your IB-Es for a 24/7 overclock on a decent water loop?


Before I'd get a second CPU? 1.0, and if it would be still too much, 0.95. And if it would be still too much, 0.900.
When I'd get second CPU, I'd test both create voltage table, and go to the engineering limit (I'd derive from that voltage table.) with the better one, the other would stay low as a backup.


----------



## jamiee

*WooT... There SHE IS !!*



There's actually a bit more room in this case than I was expecting.


----------



## alancsalt

A "quoted" post being discussed was previously removed, that was why it had no link. It is against the TOS to discuss deleted material in forum. If you wish to discuss deleted material you should contact a staff member directly. Discussion cleaned. Please cease quoting deleted material.

If some of *that* argument survives, feel free to PM me and I will delete it. Please do not revive that.

Discuss convection and airflow, sure, but don't connect that discussion to deleted material.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> *7AM And the build ... IS ON !!!*
> 
> *Note:* For any of you building in the AIR 540 and intend to replace the stock case fans with Air Series AF140's....
> You will need to cut part of the rubber grommet on two of the AF140 corners for the rear case fan position. The metal structure of the case is folded over and interferes with proper positioning of the fan.
> The stock fans don't have this rubber grommet so they easily slide into position, the AF140's however need a little modification.
> The other options would be to cut the case itself or completely remove the rubber grommets from the fan (neither of which makes much sense to me). A simple channel cut into the rubber with a sharp knife is all that's needed.
> 
> The front intake fan positions are OK and don't require any modifying


So basically, this case is just a CM HAF XB on it's side with an eatx motherboard tray. Looks good.

The HAF XB also needs modding for 140's. You would think that when a company says that 140 can be used, They would make sure that they fit without modding things. But where is the fun that.


----------



## kpoeticg

The HAF XB EVO is a refresh, they fixed the front panel where the 140's had to be modded in. It was really a friggin tiny thing you had to do.

The 540D has more stock rad support but the XB has handles
Those r the biggest differences between em


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The HAF XB EVO is a refresh, they fixed the front panel where the 140's had to be modded in. It was really a friggin tiny thing you had to do.
> 
> The 540D has more stock rad support but the XB has handles
> Those r the biggest differences between em


Sorry. Didn't mean to get you upset about it. I didn't say it was hard. Just said it had to be done. I don't have the evo. I have the original.


----------



## kpoeticg

U didn't make me upset. I have the original too. I almost swapped my XB for 540D when it first came out, but i decided to keep the handles and carve out more rad support.
I was just pointing out that the mod you have to make to fit 140's in the XB is small enough to hardly be considered a mod. Just a little plastic that doesn't affect the structural integrity or aesthetics.

I'm just talking, not upset









Also, i've said the 540D looks like an XB on it's side many times too. You're the only other person i've seen agree with me









About maybe a month ago, somebody in the XB Club took all the panels off their XB and put MNPC feet on the side. It looked like a 540
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Got the MNPCTECH Billet window kit installed, next up is working on the side panels.


----------



## jamiee

*H100i & PSU Installed.... Starting to look like a KILLER RIG now*












*Tomorrow* I'll get to wiring everything up (my least favourite part of any PC build).
Still waiting for the GTX 780 Ti SC ACX to arrive, so it'll be a few days before I can fire it up.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, all that's holding me back now from staring my build with my new RIVBE is the 4930K I ordered from Newegg Thu morning that's still stuck in 'Packaging' where it's going to sit until Monday at least. I really expected it would get sent out Fri. When I paid for the '3 Day Shipping' option I didn't realize they were going to take 4 days or more to get around to shipping it. It's bad enough that the '3 Day shipping' always takes 4-5 days to get where I live. Tried contacting their customer service yesterday via their chat but just got blown off by them.

I realize they are overly-busy with all the Black Friday sales, but I've got 7 pages of orders in my 'Order History" with Newegg for 2013 so far, and I've never had them sit on an order for anywhere near this long before sending it out. After months and months of gathering all the stuff I need until I just need this last part to even really get started, the wait is killing me.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> *H100i & PSU Installed.... Starting to look like a KILLER RIG now*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tomorrow* I'll get to wiring everything up (my least favourite part of any PC build).
> Still waiting for the GTX 780 Ti SC ACX to arrive, so it'll be a few days before I can fire it up.


Comin along great!!!








I hate seeing 540D builds. Always make me second guess if i shoulda stuck with the XB








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, all that's holding me back now from staring my build with my new RIVBE is the 4930K I ordered from Newegg Thu morning that's still stuck in 'Packaging' where it's going to sit until Monday at least. I really expected it would get sent out Fri. When I paid for the '3 Day Shipping' option I didn't realize they were going to take 4 days or more to get around to shipping it. It's bad enough that the '3 Day shipping' always takes 4-5 days to get where I live. Tried contacting their customer service yesterday via their chat but just got blown off by them.
> 
> I realize they are overly-busy with all the Black Friday sales, but I've got 7 pages of orders in my 'Order History" with Newegg for 2013 so far, and I've never had them sit on an order for anywhere near this long before sending it out. After months and months of gathering all the stuff I need until I just need this last part to even really get started, the wait is killing me.


That sux bro. It'll be here b4 u know it though


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, all that's holding me back now from staring my build with my new RIVBE is the 4930K I ordered from Newegg Thu morning that's still stuck in 'Packaging' where it's going to sit until Monday at least. I really expected it would get sent out Fri. When I paid for the '3 Day Shipping' option I didn't realize they were going to take 4 days or more to get around to shipping it. It's bad enough that the '3 Day shipping' always takes 4-5 days to get where I live. Tried contacting their customer service yesterday via their chat but just got blown off by them.
> 
> I realize they are overly-busy with all the Black Friday sales, but I've got 7 pages of orders in my 'Order History" with Newegg for 2013 so far, and I've never had them sit on an order for anywhere near this long before sending it out. After months and months of gathering all the stuff I need until I just need this last part to even really get started, the wait is killing me.


Don't worry, your stuff will arrive soon enough








It was the US Thanksgiving on Thursday and most companies remained shut down on Friday, so nothing has shipped State side.
It should all start flowing again by Monday.
I ordered my GTX 780 Ti Wednesday afternoon, but it was just late enough that it didn't make it out of Newegg's New Jersey warehouse before they shut down for the holiday.
Funny enough the Nvidia Holiday Bundle Game Cards arrived here the morning of the next day though! (They shipped from the local Toronto warehouse mind you).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Comin along great!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate seeing 540D builds. Always make me second guess if i shoulda stuck with the XB


I have to admit.... I've owned numerous cases over the years (some $500 - $800 cases in there as well), and yet It's the relatively inexpensive Corsair 600T SE and now the Air 540 that I've enjoyed the most so far.

The Air 540 has been a breeze to work with (other than having to mod the rear AF140 fan). Easily my fastest build to date, and I'm actually taking my time with it Lol!
The wiring on the back side could get a little interesting, but unless you're willing to cut custom cable lengths; it's probably going to be a little messy no matter what you do








(Not that you can see any of it anyway...)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Don't worry, your stuff will arrive soon enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was the US Thanksgiving on Thursday and most companies remained shut down on Friday, so nothing has shipped State side.
> It should all start flowing again by Monday.
> I ordered my GTX 780 Ti Wednesday afternoon, but it was just late enough that it didn't make it out of Newegg's New Jersey warehouse before they shut down for the holiday.
> Funny enough the Nvidia Holiday Bundle Game Cards arrived here the morning of the next day though! (They shipped from the local Toronto warehouse mind you).
> I have to admit.... I've owned numerous cases over the years (some $500 - $800 cases in there as well), and yet It's the relatively inexpensive Corsair 600T SE and now the Air 540 that I've enjoyed the most so far.
> 
> The Air 540 has been a breeze to work with (other than having to mod the rear AF140 fan). Easily my fastest build to date, and I'm actually taking my time with it Lol!
> The wiring on the back side could get a little interesting, but unless you're willing to cut custom cable lengths; it's probably going to be a little messy no matter what you do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Not that you can see any of it anyway...)


I loved the 540 as well only reason I took it back was because I decided to go heavy water cooling vs air though its ana amaxing case for a steal


----------



## 6steven9

I just got mine a couple days ago part of my first build ever


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> I just got mine a couple days ago part of my first build ever


Pretty nice first build


----------



## kpoeticg

Hell yeah, real nice first build. Why did you get 2 different size monitors though? (Not a criticism, just curious)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> It was the US Thanksgiving on Thursday and most companies remained shut down on Friday, so nothing has shipped State side.
> It should all start flowing again by Monday.


{not directed at anyone or ANY PREVIOUS conversation}

as it should be
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Comin along great!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate seeing 540D builds. Always make me second guess if i shoulda stuck with the XB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to admit.... I've owned numerous cases over the years (some $500 - $800 cases in there as well), and yet It's the relatively inexpensive Corsair 600T SE and now the Air 540 that I've enjoyed the most so far.
> 
> The Air 540 has been a breeze to work with (other than having to mod the rear AF140 fan). Easily my fastest build to date, and I'm actually taking my time with it Lol!
> The wiring on the back side could get a little interesting, but unless you're willing to cut custom cable lengths; it's probably going to be a little messy no matter what you do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Not that you can see any of it anyway...)
Click to expand...

have to ask you owned a caselabs yet?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> I just got mine a couple days ago part of my first build ever


welcome please let us know if you have any questions !!! and congrats !


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> I just got mine a couple days ago part of my first build ever


Grats and grats again on the QNIX! Is it a matte or gloss? I ordered a gloss but got a matte so manually removed the film myself, but heard that they only make gloss w/ tempered glass now and its 50/50 if you get it w/ matte behind it or not. Curious to hear though!


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats and grats again on the QNIX! Is it a matte or gloss? I ordered a gloss but got a matte so manually removed the film myself, but heard that they only make gloss w/ tempered glass now and its 50/50 if you get it w/ matte behind it or not. Curious to hear though!


I opted for Matte I was always a strong believer that computer monitors should be matte finish but that's just me it's an amazing monitor considering i'm coming for a 15in laptop monitor LOL soo stoked.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> I opted for Matte I was always a strong believer that computer monitors should be matte finish but that's just me it's an amazing monitor considering i'm coming for a 15in laptop monitor LOL soo stoked.


The problem with matte in this application is the way it's installed. It's been proven to reduce image quality, but you likely won't be like "HEY MY IQ!!!" due to what youare coming from. Same for me, I would also perceive it as an upgrade in IQ from my current panels.


----------



## binormalkilla

So has anyone found any good BIOS settings resources? I haven't really found any yet. When I get back into town tomorrow I'm going to start OC'ing my 4930K. I wouldn't mind reading up on someone else's results with these BIOS settings.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> I opted for Matte I was always a strong believer that computer monitors should be matte finish but that's just me it's an amazing monitor considering i'm coming for a 15in laptop monitor LOL soo stoked.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The problem with matte in this application is the way it's installed. It's been proven to reduce image quality, but you likely won't be like "HEY MY IQ!!!" due to what youare coming from. Same for me, I would also perceive it as an upgrade in IQ from my current panels.


The only good thing I"ll say about the matte film on the QNIX/XSTAR's is that its NOT grainy so you won't get that shimmy effect. Other than that they're somewhat close though the matte DOES darken/unsharpen the image a bit, as well as slightly dull the colors which is easily tweakable in the nvidia settings.

Here's a shot of mine, half on half off, I removed it though now. It's also the same panel as yours, I ordered the gloss but somehow they sent me a matte lol.

Not knocking matte though as I was very impressed after turning it on lol.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> The only good thing I"ll say about the matte film on the QNIX/XSTAR's is that its NOT grainy so you won't get that shimmy effect. Other than that they're somewhat close though the matte DOES darken/unsharpen the image a bit, as well as slightly dull the colors which is easily tweakable in the nvidia settings.
> 
> Here's a shot of mine, half on half off, I removed it though now. It's also the same panel as yours, I ordered the gloss but somehow they sent me a matte lol.
> 
> Not knocking matte though as I was very impressed after turning it on lol.


I dont think my Matte looks as grainy as the one you had there or at least i can't tell my eye sight isn't that good anyways but i did notice the brightness was a little high and the colors looked a little dull but after looking at the Qnix club I OC the panel to 100hz, 120 caused artifacts and added the ICC profile on the front page for the 96hz range and it was like night and day I couldn't believe the difference mostly from teh ICC profile. Not sure if i could rock a glossy screen with reflection the computer is in the same room in that pick and that huge window lets in a lot of sunlight plus behide my desk I have a pretty bright lamp I turn on at night i'm sure the glare would annoy me......


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> I dont think my Matte looks as grainy as the one you had there or at least i can't tell my eye sight isn't that good anyways but i did notice the brightness was a little high and the colors looked a little dull but after looking at the Qnix club I OC the panel to 100hz, 120 caused artifacts and added the ICC profile on the front page for the 96hz range and it was like night and day I couldn't believe the difference mostly from teh ICC profile. Not sure if i could rock a glossy screen with reflection the computer is in the same room in that pick and that huge window lets in a lot of sunlight plus behide my desk I have a pretty bright lamp I turn on at night i'm sure the glare would annoy me......


Other's ICC profiles do work, but I found best to make your own. I got the spyder 4 pro a year ago and calibrated my crossover 27q and saved the icc profile. Before it was dull and the colors washed out, now it looks amazing.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> *I dont think my Matte looks as grainy as the one you had* there or at least i can't tell my eye sight isn't that good anyways but i did notice the brightness was a little high and the colors looked a little dull but after looking at the Qnix club I OC the panel to 100hz, 120 caused artifacts and added the ICC profile on the front page for the 96hz range and it was like night and day I couldn't believe the difference mostly from teh ICC profile. Not sure if i could rock a glossy screen with reflection the computer is in the same room in that pick and that huge window lets in a lot of sunlight plus behide my desk I have a pretty bright lamp I turn on at night i'm sure the glare would annoy me......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> The only good thing I"ll say about the matte film on the QNIX/XSTAR's *is that its NOT grainy* so you won't get that shimmy effect.


The film isn't grainy at all. I'm just pointing out the brightness/shade difference mainly. For me when OC'ing it's an annoyance w/ dynamic contrast where it blends darker colors together to look like one huge dark image. Either way the Matte's are still VERY nice, I was just simply pointing out the differences.

I believe theres a tool to help calibrate the monitor a bit though I may as well pick up a spyder. Unless there are better tools. I think mine has a warm setting of +2 so looking for a cooler profile.


----------



## szeged

i have to use matte screens in florida, the SUNSHINE state, i got room darkening curtains and everything...no dice.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i have to use matte screens in florida, the SUNSHINE state, i got room darkening curtains and everything...no dice.


Yeah... I have matte screens. The difference is that nothing exists under the matte. LED TN.

They are great in landscape, absolutely horrid in portrait.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> I just got mine a couple days ago part of my first build ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice... going all out on the first build. I went a little crazy on my very first build + custom watercooling. Even if I'm just updating my first build, I think I spent more than my first build. Good luck on your build... and post pics of the final product.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> So has anyone found any good BIOS settings resources? I haven't really found any yet. When I get back into town tomorrow I'm going to start OC'ing my 4930K. I wouldn't mind reading up on someone else's results with these BIOS settings.


1)For decent overclocks, enable both pll overvoltage and termination
2)DO NOT adjust the cpu current capability, even 100% made every overclock unstable instantly.
3)I had very little luck with baseclock overclocking, for some reason they were always more unstable than just a multiplier adjustment. Even when I played with the voltage that stabilized baseclock overclocks (can't remember the term VCCSA maybe?)
4)when scrolling through Digi+, I set both of the settings that mention "Cleaner power" to 1.3x
5)I also use offset overclocking and I leave the c states enabled

I'm not using IB-e, so your settings may be a little different, but I got my 3930k to a fairly stable 4.6 on all 6 cores at 1.46v. I backed it down to 4.4 at 1.36 for 24/7 stability and a voltage reasonably close to intel spec.

Edit: I also got my ram to 2400 at 1.65v, but I backed it back to 2133 at 1.575 to keep the ram closer to spec, the IMC on my 3930k seems quite strong, but I didn't notice a difference for all the tweaking it needed to be stable.

Good luck with your overclocking

Also, LunaP, you're welcome to add my build log to the op, the link is in my sig, initial completion will be next week with updates to follow. I was unable to find the rules to be added to the overclocking section as mentioned in the OP. To be more specific, you spell out a list of contents, but where the rules to be added to overclocking is, only the rules to enter the club is displayed. Also, thank you for building and upkeeping the club, I'm a proud member.









Also, if anyone has anything to add, I could use pointers, too


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i have to use matte screens in florida, the SUNSHINE state, i got room darkening curtains and everything...no dice.


Get some Blackout Shades. When i use to live in a condo on the 4th floor, i had to get them all over my condo just to be able to watch tv. They block out everything


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i have to use matte screens in florida, the SUNSHINE state, i got room darkening curtains and everything...no dice.


You can work at night.


----------



## szeged

You underestimate the horribleness of florida


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> You underestimate the horribleness of florida


I've never disliked living anywhere more than Miami, I'm glad to be somewhere else, even if it's the home of the LDS, I'm not afraid of getting killed on i95 anymore. Worst. Drivers. EVAR. I used a black sheet to keep my room dark it worked pretty well, even for my glossy Shimian.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I've never disliked living anywhere more than Miami, I'm glad to be somewhere else, even if it's the home of the LDS, I'm not afraid of getting killed on i95 anymore. Worst. Drivers. EVAR. I used a black sheet to keep my room dark it worked pretty well, even for my glossy Shimian.


haha







i lived right on miami beach for about 8 years or so lol, i know what you mean about the driving


----------



## Redshift 91

Miami Shores, 3 years for me, that was enough. I had to drive an 11 passenger van in rush hour as part of my job. I hated that job, but it paid for my titan, so I guess it's okay now.


----------



## Arm3nian

Pshh, sunshine. Try 130 degrees in your car.


----------



## szeged

try 100% humidity 24/7









90 degrees + 100% humidity = 858394589357498378457893587 degrees total.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I can't wait to get my hands on this board.

How are they holding up? any funny issues?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I can't wait to get my hands on this board.
> 
> How are they holding up? *any funny issues*?


availability.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> try 100% humidity 24/7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90 degrees + 100% humidity = 858394589357498378457893587 degrees total.


Yeah I lived in LA half my life, you start sweating after being outside for 5 minutes, humidity is a horrible thing. Over here you just cook. I've seen my car's thermometer reach 168, and my car is a shiny silver, physically one of the best surfaces that reflects light.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> availability.


Lmao, you're not kidding.

At least for me it's not a problem, i won't have the funds for until next Friday. Hopefully by then we can at least pre order or something.

I should have reserved a few PS4 and resold them, they are a really hot item in Chicago. Profit from that would have financed my RIVE BE earlier this month. Oh well.......


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Lmao, you're not kidding.
> 
> At least for me it's not a problem, i won't have the funds for until next Friday. Hopefully by then we can at least pre order or something.
> 
> I should have reserved a few PS4 and resold them, they are a really hot item in Chicago. Profit from that would have financed my RIVE BE earlier this month. Oh well.......


Order it from NCIX
/sarcasm


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Order it from NCIX
> /sarcasm


Yep, I sure will. I love NCIX


----------



## greggus

Hi everyone,

i need someone who can look at the original cable for the OC panel. Can you post the pins layout of each side of the cable ?

update : i found it, nvm


----------



## Bimmer555

I'm so frustrated with this board...
I'm running the following specs.
SilverStone RV01 Case
RIVBE
Intel 4820K Ivy-E
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16gb 1866mhz
Corsair H75 Water cooling
SLI - MSI 770GTX 2GB TwinFrozr's (these were on sale, not a fan of MSI)
Corsair AX1200 Gold 1200watt psu
OCZ Vector 150's RAID0 (240gb ea) for OS
Samsung 830 240gb for games
Samsung F3 1Tb's RAID0 storage
WD640gb blacks RAID0 storage
Vanatoo Transparent One HIFI Speakers + Definitive SuperCube 2000 subwoofer
Dell 27" U2711

I cannot for the life of me get any stable overclock, let alone any stable stock setup!? anyone please help me out?!

It seems to be ok for half a day, and i step away from my computer, either a freeze and shut down, or lock up or something...
i'm looking for someone with same or similar specs. I just want something reliable! i've been trying to get my ram to run XMP or at 1866 and wonder if that is part of the prob?

any place i can go to get bios settings for my setup? I swear its the buggiest bios ever, **** gets reset on its own all the time. like sata settings, or raid, also often times my boot device order is constantly changing.









so many bugs and problems, i hope this stuff gets ironed out soon by asus.

i'm sure some is user error, but good lord i'm pulling my hair out with this setup.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> *H100i & PSU Installed.... Starting to look like a KILLER RIG now*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tomorrow* I'll get to wiring everything up (my least favourite part of any PC build).
> Still waiting for the GTX 780 Ti SC ACX to arrive, so it'll be a few days before I can fire it up.


I am thinking of doing a push pull for my H100i. Do you see much difference in Temps?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bimmer555*
> 
> I'm so frustrated with this board...
> I'm running the following specs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Specs
> 
> 
> 
> SilverStone RV01 Case
> RIVBE
> Intel 4820K Ivy-E
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 16gb 1866mhz
> Corsair H75 Water cooling
> SLI - MSI 770GTX 2GB TwinFrozr's (these were on sale, not a fan of MSI)
> Corsair AX1200 Gold 1200watt psu
> OCZ Vector 150's RAID0 (240gb ea) for OS
> Samsung 830 240gb for games
> Samsung F3 1Tb's RAID0 storage
> WD640gb blacks RAID0 storage
> Vanatoo Transparent One HIFI Speakers + Definitive SuperCube 2000 subwoofer
> Dell 27" U2711
> 
> 
> 
> I cannot for the life of me get any stable overclock, let alone any stable stock setup!? anyone please help me out?!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ...
> 
> 
> 
> It seems to be ok for half a day, and i step away from my computer, either a freeze and shut down, or lock up or something...
> i'm looking for someone with same or similar specs. I just want something reliable! i've been trying to get my ram to run XMP or at 1866 and wonder if that is part of the prob?
> 
> any place i can go to get bios settings for my setup? I swear its the buggiest bios ever, **** gets reset on its own all the time. like sata settings, or raid, also often times my boot device order is constantly changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so many bugs and problems, i hope this stuff gets ironed out soon by asus.
> 
> i'm sure some is user error, but good lord i'm pulling my hair out with this setup.


Maybe it's the 4820k? Has anybody had great success with a 4820?


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> have to ask you owned a caselabs yet?


No not yet....
Probably the closest thing I've owned to a Caselabs was a Thermaltake "Motzart Tx"
(That thing was huge!) and short of the Level 10.... probably the most interesting case I've ever owned.









These day's I'm more about the smaller cases (mid-tower-ish size). However if I was ever going to build an all out killer showpiece rig with full water colling etc.,
than I'd probably be looking at Caselabs.

BTW, I eat my words about the cabling in the Air 540 being kinda messy.



I'm pleasantry surprised how well this has turned out, and I wasn't really trying that hard. I'm sure I can make things even neater still...
All that's left to add are the PCI-E power cables for the 780 Ti and I'm done








(Debating on adding lighting, but where my PC is located it's not really visible so probably not much point to it).


----------



## skupples

EVGA Dark had allot of issues with 4820k as well. Not sure what to say...

If your memory isn't stock @ 1866 try defaulting to what is stock & start over. While the IMC may be able to handle it, the memory it's self may not.


----------



## ArctiX

Hi all, I'd like to join!








Still have a few additions, but this is my "so far" solution. I think I may one of the first to hackintosh with this board?!


----------



## DBaer

Without knowing a lot about this BIOS yet I am able to get to 4.3 Ghz stable on my first effort. I have been running prime 95 for the last hour and my temps are 55, 54, 52 and 52 so I think that is fine for what I have so far. I am set to run in turbo mode.
I have a few questions, first of all why is RealTemp only showing temp for 4 cores when I have six and CPU-z is showing all six.
Also in CPuZ my memory frequency is showing 666.7 MHz when it should be 1800. Some stupid questions perhaps but it has been a long time since I got into OCing and these tools are all new to me.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArctiX*
> 
> Hi all, I'd like to join!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Still have a few additions, but this is my "so far" solution. I think I may one of the first to hackintosh with this board?!


Welcome to OCN & The club...

Yes you will most likely be the first person here hackintosh'ing this board!


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bimmer555*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm so frustrated with this board...
> I'm running the following specs.
> SilverStone RV01 Case
> RIVBE
> Intel 4820K Ivy-E
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 16gb 1866mhz
> Corsair H75 Water cooling
> SLI - MSI 770GTX 2GB TwinFrozr's (these were on sale, not a fan of MSI)
> Corsair AX1200 Gold 1200watt psu
> OCZ Vector 150's RAID0 (240gb ea) for OS
> Samsung 830 240gb for games
> Samsung F3 1Tb's RAID0 storage
> WD640gb blacks RAID0 storage
> Vanatoo Transparent One HIFI Speakers + Definitive SuperCube 2000 subwoofer
> Dell 27" U2711
> 
> I cannot for the life of me get any stable overclock, let alone any stable stock setup!? anyone please help me out?!
> 
> It seems to be ok for half a day, and i step away from my computer, either a freeze and shut down, or lock up or something...
> i'm looking for someone with same or similar specs. I just want something reliable! i've been trying to get my ram to run XMP or at 1866 and wonder if that is part of the prob?
> 
> any place i can go to get bios settings for my setup? I swear its the buggiest bios ever, **** gets reset on its own all the time. like sata settings, or raid, also often times my boot device order is constantly changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so many bugs and problems, i hope this stuff gets ironed out soon by asus.
> 
> i'm sure some is user error, but good lord i'm pulling my hair out with this setup.


I posted a quick break down of my settings to get my overclocks stable, would you try my settings and report back? It's on page 113 of this thread


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArctiX*
> 
> Hi all, I'd like to join!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have a few additions, but this is my "so far" solution. I think I may one of the first to hackintosh with this board?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats and welcome to OCN!









Let us know what chip you pop in there


----------



## bughole5

for anyone that is looking for a kit

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503

this kit works great with the RIVE black


----------



## degenn

For anyone wondering how the Trident X ram looks when installed into the RIVBE:





Looks pretty killer, imo.


















It's dwarfed by the STH10, haha.









Can't wait for the EK motherboard blocks so I can assemble my acrylic loop and make use of the case.


----------



## binormalkilla

Here is my first 3dmark run. I'm about to run 3dmark11 as well. This is stock clocks on everything in Windows 8.1. After I run 3dmark11 I'm off to start OCing.



Here are a few pics. My build isn't finished. I'm still waiting on the RMA on my second 480 radiator, as well as my GPU blocks. I know the pics suck, but I don't have any sunlight to help














I'm also somewhat stable at 4.4 GHz right now. I'm going to play BF4 for a while, but when I get some more time I'll go for higher. I'm also going to let Prime95 run overnight.


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greggus*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> i need someone who can look at the original cable for the OC panel. Can you post the pins layout of each side of the cable ?
> 
> update : i found it, nvm


The best way to know this board is to familiarize first with oc panel functions. It is the most amazing gadget for overclocking


----------



## skupples

@binormalkilla

I yelled into your case and heard an echo! Wish I would of just gone with the biggest case known to man first. Would of saved me some money over time. Looking good!

I should finally have the proper Dynatron here tomorrow, which means I can finally actually get started on my build. Lapped the LGA1366 back plate today, came out OK... It's not a complete mirror finish, but it's close. I gashed the dremmel into the damned thing twice while buffing it out, not worth it sand it back down again though.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @binormalkilla
> 
> I yelled into your case and heard an echo! Wish I would of just gone with the biggest case known to man first. Would of saved me some money over time. Looking good!
> 
> I should finally have the proper Dynatron here tomorrow, which means I can finally actually get started on my build. Lapped the LGA1366 back plate today, came out OK... It's not a complete mirror finish, but it's close. I gashed the dremmel into the damned thing twice while buffing it out, not worth it sand it back down again though.


This case has an insane amount of room. I love it.

Anyone played bf4 yet with 290x's in crossfire? I'm having all sorts of problems. Weird lagging that coincides with audio clipping, as well as full screen corruption, then crashing.

Same graphics cards that I had in a previous build. I reinstalled the drivers, and even tried playing with my sound card removed.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @binormalkilla
> 
> I yelled into your case and heard an echo! Wish I would of just gone with the biggest case known to man first. Would of saved me some money over time. Looking good!
> 
> I should finally have the proper Dynatron here tomorrow, which means I can finally actually get started on my build. Lapped the LGA1366 back plate today, came out OK... It's not a complete mirror finish, but it's close. I gashed the dremmel into the damned thing twice while buffing it out, not worth it sand it back down again though.


Well if you need a place to sleep let me know!!!

Me and my case. I am 5'9" to give you the idea of the height.











A 400mm Reservoir with the RIVE











Now I need a BE and 4630k to take the RIVE's Place


----------



## binormalkilla

3dmark @ 4.4 GHz, stock GPU clocks.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> This case has an insane amount of room. I love it.
> 
> Anyone played bf4 yet with 290x's in crossfire? I'm having all sorts of problems. Weird lagging that coincides with audio clipping, as well as full screen corruption, then crashing.
> 
> Same graphics cards that I had in a previous build. I reinstalled the drivers, and even tried playing with my sound card removed.


I would go over to the 290X owners club, some one may be able to chime in.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> have to ask you owned a caselabs yet?
> 
> 
> 
> No not yet....
> Probably the closest thing I've owned to a Caselabs was a Thermaltake "Motzart Tx"
> (That thing was huge!) and short of the Level 10.... probably the most interesting case I've ever owned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These day's I'm more about the smaller cases (mid-tower-ish size). However if I was ever going to build an all out killer showpiece rig with full water colling etc.,
> than I'd probably be looking at Caselabs.
> 
> BTW, I eat my words about the cabling in the Air 540 being kinda messy.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pleasantry surprised how well this has turned out, and I wasn't really trying that hard. I'm sure I can make things even neater still...
> All that's left to add are the PCI-E power cables for the 780 Ti and I'm done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Debating on adding lighting, but where my PC is located it's not really visible so probably not much point to it).
Click to expand...

haha they now have small cases too, not like HTPC cases, but still small cases
http://www.caselabs-store.com/mercury-s3-case/
http://www.caselabs-store.com/mercury-s5-case/

just a thought for the future... besides once you go caselabs.... you tend to stay there..


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> haha they now have small cases too, not like HTPC cases, but still small cases
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/mercury-s3-case/
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/mercury-s5-case/
> 
> just a thought for the future... besides once you go caselabs.... you tend to stay there..


Speaking of caselabs I just checked and my order still says : Order Status: Awaiting Fulfillment

Does it change to building or anything or does it sit there till they ship? Just curious.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Speaking of caselabs I just checked and my order still says : Order Status: Awaiting Fulfillment
> 
> Does it change to building or anything or does it sit there till they ship? Just curious.


I am just about 100% sure it stays their until it is shipped. I looked back at old emails and I would get order confirmation, one waiting fulfillment and then a email when it is shipped and everything has dont this even custom and small orders...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am just about 100% sure it stays their until it is shipped. I looked back at old emails and I would get order confirmation, one waiting fulfillment and then a email when it is shipped and everything has dont this even custom and small orders...


Ah ok ordered it wednesday night, so not sure if it was started on Thursday or Friday due to Thanksgiving, so guessing it should be finished up sometime this week. Since I'm just 1 state over though I did ground shipping via Fed-Ex as looking on their site it shows 1-2 days for my area. I noticed w/ smaller cases people have to assemble them but w/ the double wides I take it they come assembled?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah ok ordered it wednesday night, so not sure if it was started on Thursday or Friday due to Thanksgiving, so guessing it should be finished up sometime this week. Since I'm just 1 state over though I did ground shipping via Fed-Ex as looking on their site it shows 1-2 days for my area. I noticed w/ smaller cases people have to assemble them but w/ the double wides I take it they come assembled?


I don't remember for sure on your case but unless it says it own the site it comes assembled!!


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Without knowing a lot about this BIOS yet I am able to get to 4.3 Ghz stable on my first effort. I have been running prime 95 for the last hour and my temps are 55, 54, 52 and 52 so I think that is fine for what I have so far. I am set to run in turbo mode.
> I have a few questions, first of all why is RealTemp only showing temp for 4 cores when I have six and CPU-z is showing all six.
> Also in CPuZ my memory frequency is showing 666.7 MHz when it should be 1800. Some stupid questions perhaps but it has been a long time since I got into OCing and these tools are all new to me.


in the realtemp folder use realtempGT.exe instead of realtemp.exe The gt version is for the hexacores.


----------



## xvxvxv

Where can I buy Asus Rampage IV Black Edition on the internet ? Looked at many sites, but is not available

I want to purchase and shipping to New York .. Help me, please


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> Where can I buy Asus Rampage IV Black Edition on the internet ? Looked at many sites, but is not available
> 
> I want to purchase and shipping to New York .. Help me, please


none in stock anywhere yet unfortunately.


----------



## xvxvxv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> none in stock anywhere yet unfortunately.


When do you expect to availability.?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> When do you expect to availability.?


later this week a lot of us are hoping.


----------



## ArctiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Welcome to OCN & The club...
> 
> Yes you will most likely be the first person here hackintosh'ing this board!


Aw thanks guys! Long time reader, first time poster









Skupples, you provided much entertainment over at the ROG forum (and on OCN) during the last few months - thank you!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats and welcome to OCN!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let us know what chip you pop in there


Luna, I have a 4930K in at stock at the moment - but that's the reason why I'm here! I want to learn about successful overclocks with my combination









And also some good watercooling setups!

So thank you guys in advance!


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> Where can I buy Asus Rampage IV Black Edition on the internet ? Looked at many sites, but is not available
> 
> I want to purchase and shipping to New York .. Help me, please


Rich sheikhs should stay in line.
They'd get it after these in poverty,
it builds the spine.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArctiX*
> 
> Aw thanks guys! Long time reader, first time poster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skupples, you provided much entertainment over at the ROG forum (and on OCN) during the last few months - thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luna, I have a 4930K in at stock at the moment - but that's the reason why I'm here! I want to learn about successful overclocks with my combination
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also some good watercooling setups!
> 
> So thank you guys in advance!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

How cool would be to be able to order your RIVBE online and have it delivered to you in 30 minutes or less .... by a drone?









Apparently Amazon's owner Jeff Bezos is pitching the idea as something he wants to see implemented over the next 5 yrs ...

http://www.theverge.com/2013/12/1/5164340/delivery-drones-are-coming-jeff-bezos-previews-half-hour-shipping






I saw that and kept thinking, this has to be a joke or something.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> For anyone wondering how the Trident X ram looks when installed into the RIVBE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks pretty killer, imo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's dwarfed by the STH10, haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait for the EK motherboard blocks so I can assemble my acrylic loop and make use of the case.


On a similar note: 64 Gigs of Ripjaws Z series, 8 sticks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> On a similar note: 64 Gigs of Ripjaws Z series, 8 sticks.
> 
> DSC_0161.JPG 136k .JPG file


love it! I'm getting the 64 GB kit of Ripjaws Zs too. Shame G.Skill put those 'waranty void if removed' stickers on there like that.

I'm getting 2400s. Is that what you've got there?


----------



## skupples

Bezo Stoll the idea from the new sim city.


----------



## LunaP

For anyone looking for 2133 RAM here's a super cheap grab from G.Skill for 59$ 8GB

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231468

2400 for 64$ 8GB

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231587

and 960gb SSD for 449$

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148696


----------



## skupples

All I know is USPS sucks this time of year. 2 day takes @least 5.

If anyone sees a good mch keyboard deal leme know. Don't gave time to browse at work today.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> All I know is USPS sucks this time of year. 2 day takes @least 5.
> 
> If anyone sees a good mch keyboard deal leme know. Don't gave time to browse at work today.


Unless you don't care what it looks like didn't see anything good.

Razor - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823114034 BF4 edition ( Cherry's unknown )
AZIO Levetron Mech 5 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823839012 (Cherry blacks)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> All I know is USPS sucks this time of year. 2 day takes @least 5.


Dayum, USPS is GREAT here year round. It's everyone else that sucks where I live. 3 day shipping from either Fedex or UPS always takes at least 5 days to get to me, but USPS is almost always 1-2 days, though no one ever sends me larger packages via USPS.

Example: I made 5 orders online on Thur (Thanksgiving). One from Amazon (screwdriver/drill bit set w/ "FREE Two-Day Shipping"), one from Newegg (4930K w/ "3 Day Shipping"), and 3 from ebay. (3 diff sellers, all small - fit in a padded envelope - items. Shipped via USPS).

The Amazon and all the ebay items all were shipped on Friday. My 4930K at Newegg has been sitting in "Packaging" for more than 4 days now, still waiting to be shipped.







Perhaps I should have checked the $3 rush processing box?

Amazon's Fedex tracking estimates my delivery will be on Wed. Two of my three ebay orders are already here via the postman today. Doesn't have tracking available, but I do expect the other ebay order should arrive tomorrow.

Another example, we also have a DVD/Blu-ray + streaming plan at Netflix, and when I mail a disk back to them, they ALWAYS get it ~5am-6am the next morning, when they mail out to me later that day, I ALWAYS get it the very next day.
Quote:


> If anyone sees a good mch keyboard deal leme know. Don't gave time to browse at work today.


Any specific models you have been considering we can look for / compare to? You looking for cherry browns or does it matter?


----------



## skupples

The dynatron shipped Wednesday hasn't evend hit Florida yet. 2 day.

Brown or similar switch led back lighy


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Dayum, USPS is GREAT here year round. It's everyone else that sucks where I live. 3 day shipping from either Fedex or UPS always takes at least 5 days to get to me, but USPS is almost always 1-2 days, though no one ever sends me larger packages via USPS.
> 
> Example: I made 5 orders online on Thur (Thanksgiving). One from Amazon (screwdriver/drill bit set w/ "FREE Two-Day Shipping"), one from Newegg (4930K w/ "3 Day Shipping"), and 3 from ebay. (3 diff sellers, all small - fit in a padded envelope - items. Shipped via USPS).
> 
> The Amazon and all the ebay items all were shipped on Friday. My 4930K at Newegg has been sitting in "Packaging" for more than 4 days now, still waiting to be shipped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps I should have checked the $3 rush processing box?
> 
> Amazon's Fedex tracking estimates my delivery will be on Wed. Two of my three ebay orders are already here via the postman today. Doesn't have tracking available, but I do expect the other ebay order should arrive tomorrow.
> 
> Another example, we also have a DVD/Blu-ray + streaming plan at Netflix, and when I mail a disk back to them, they ALWAYS get it ~5am-6am the next morning, when they mail out to me later that day, I ALWAYS get it the very next day.
> Any specific models you have been considering we can look for / compare to? You looking for cherry browns or does it matter?


My third 290x has also been in packaging state since I ordered on Thursday night.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> love it! I'm getting the 64 GB kit of Ripjaws Zs too. Shame G.Skill put those 'waranty void if removed' stickers on there like that.
> 
> I'm getting 2400s. Is that what you've got there?


Yes indeed. Its the

G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 64GB (8 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-19200CL10Q2-64GBZHD

Its beautiful looking memory and looks great on the RIVBE board, BUT once i put the Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 on (it fits over the memory with NO problem) and my GTX Titan in, you can't see it. LOL

Guess another advantage of water cooling. But I got to say, the Noctua is doing an awesome job of keeping my non-OC 4930K at 50/51 degrees even under very heavy load.


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Newegg needs to get this board in so I can start modding my Corsair 600T with Acrylic


----------



## IT Diva

Now that my board is here and I have everything polished and painted ready to assemble the Stretch build, hopefully for the final time, thought I'd post a couple pics of the RIVBE on the mirrored back panel:



And a couple more detailed showing the trim of the mirror to just about 1/8" inside the edge of the board.

I'm running a 140 fan from behind the CPU cutout, and want to have maximum airflow out under the board:





That's sailboat rigging showing in the upper right corner, not bad mirror.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

So how many mobo's are going on that mobo tray?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> So how many mobo's are going on that mobo tray?


More like when will Case Labs request to buy her patent


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> So how many mobo's are going on that mobo tray?


Just that one, lol . . . .

With 4 R9-290X's and 3 loops.

Here's an earlier mockup:

Darlene


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just that one, lol . . . .
> 
> With 4 R9-290X's and 3 loops.
> 
> Here's an earlier mockup:
> 
> Darlene


I got to ask. Was you a chemistry major?


----------



## xvxvxv

Can I capture the image with your Godzilla ؟


----------



## xvxvxv

Can I capture the image with your Godzilla ؟


----------



## maxxx.ph

That sure is a lot of loop and reservoir...


----------



## binormalkilla

Almost 24 hours stable at 4.4 GHz with my 4930K, but I rebooted after a few minutes at 4.6 GHz. I think I can get at least 4.6 with this chip. For 4.4 the only voltage I touched was VCore.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Almost 24 hours stable at 4.4 GHz with my 4930K, but I rebooted after a few minutes at 4.6 GHz. I think I can get at least 4.6 with this chip. For 4.4 the only voltage I touched was VCore.


Nice, but with some tweaks you might get a nice 4.7. Even at 4.4 this chip is a killer.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Nice, but with some tweaks you might get a nice 4.7. Even at 4.4 this chip is a killer.


I think so too. I bumped VCore a little (1.344V via CPU-Z) and PLLV (1.925V via BIOS) and I'm Prime stable for 15 minutes so far.


----------



## skupples

Sigh, USPS is so fail really... The Dynatron package has been sitting in a sort facility since Wednesday. This is getting annoying, I bet it's officially lost now.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sigh, USPS is so fail really... The Dynatron package has been sitting in a sort facility since Wednesday. This is getting annoying, I bet it's officially lost now.


'Tis the season! (to delay our packages) Seriously though, expect a minimum %30 increase in shipping times from now until the new year.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> 'Tis the season! (to delay our packages) Seriously though, expect a minimum %30 increase in shipping times from now until the new year.












It was sent to USPS on tuesday night (scanned in Wednesday) That's a rather obscene delay for 20$ 2 day air shipping.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sigh, USPS is so fail really... The Dynatron package has been sitting in a sort facility since Wednesday. This is getting annoying, I bet it's officially lost now.


Man, I feel ya. That sucks.

I'm feeling the same way about Newegg right about now, or maybe it's UPS now that's the problem, or both.

After waiting 4+ days with my 4930K sitting in "Packaging" at Newegg since I ordered last Thu morning, I finally got an email just after noon today from Newegg saying that "_Your tracking number has been generated and your package/order will ship out today_" and it includes a tracking #. The thing is, clicking on that tracking number in the email takes me to UPS's site which says it doesn't recognize it, check the # and try again later. Been that way for 8+ hrs now, and if I go to my 'Order History' at Newegg it now says the status is "Shipped", but there still is no tracking # shown there yet.

I've had there be an hr or so delay before my tracking info showed up, but not anywhere near this long. What really sucks is UPS can't ever get the '3 Day Shipping' to my door in less than 5 business days, so even if it did ship today, which seems doubtful to me at this point if it isn't lost somewhere, I'd still be looking at next Monday before I get it - 11 days after I ordered it, and now it's looking like I'll be adding another day on top of that.


----------



## Mega Man

if it makes you feel better.... my usp label is still jsut a label for my RIVBE.... driving me nutz... beginning to wonder if it is even ready to be shipped, sure would be nice if nicx piped in here to see what was going on


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was sent to USPS on tuesday night (scanned in Wednesday) That's a rather obscene delay for 20$ 2 day air shipping.


I think I would be emailing USPS about that with the reciept and tracking number!! it will take up to 12 hours but I have always got answers and good results..




Here is how to email them http://faq.usps.com/adaptivedesktop/faq.jsp?ef=USPSFAQ&dest=EmailUs

good luck


----------



## skupples

I'll definitely do that if it doesn't show up by tomorrow, which is the end of the estimated shipping span. (which is greater than 2 business days, even though I payed for 2 day air







)

thx+1

i'm starting to think the ebay vender (with 80,000+1's) didn't actually send it two day, though that would be hard to pull off since usps tracking shows 2 day, which has a 5 business day window.


----------



## jamiee

My GTX 780 Ti from Newegg (ordered Wednesday afternoon) left the NJ warehouse yesterday afternoon and just arrived at the local Purolator sorting center here in Toronto a couple of hours ago. Will have it tomorrow









This morning however I decided to add a last minute component to my build: a Samsung 840 EVO 1TB ssd to match the other EVO that's already in the system (these drives match the colour scheme of the RIVBE perfectly!). I ordered it "very" early this morning, and it still shows as being in the packaging stage... not holding my breath here, could be a day or two before it ships. I'm sure Newegg is working through a massive backlog of orders.


----------



## skupples

Very good choice! I also picked one of those up. Will be paired with my 256 Vertex 4, & maybe some 128's I have on hand if SSD space becomes an issue later on.

The package has FIVE scans @ the same sort facility. It's coming from California...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if it makes you feel better.... my usp label is still jsut a label for my RIVBE.... driving me nutz... beginning to wonder if it is even ready to be shipped, sure would be nice if nicx piped in here to see what was going on


Good luck with that, they don't pop in here for damage control, only to defend themselves then take off when they're called out and realize that they can't fool anyone.









If you email them they'll offer you the ability to cancel w/ a smile though


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if it makes you feel better.... my usp label is still jsut a label for my RIVBE.... driving me nutz... beginning to wonder if it is even ready to be shipped, sure would be nice if nicx piped in here to see what was going on


They would tell you "It's all UPS fault, we gave it to them 3 weeks ago" & "You are lucky we even gave it to you" & "Hope you enjoy your *toy*"


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Very good choice! I also picked one of those up. Will be paired with my 256 Vertex 4, & maybe some 128's I have on hand if SSD space becomes an issue later on.
> 
> The package has FIVE scans @ the same sort facility. It's coming from California...


Man your having horrible luck, atleast you know that yours is on the way.

Still waiting for newegg to get their new batch is killing me, I check the site like 10 times a day.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> Man your having horrible luck, atleast you know that yours is on the way.
> 
> Still waiting for newegg to get their new batch is killing me, I check the site like 10 times a day.


Iv'e had my board for a week now, i'm just waiting for a replacement Dynatron, because the one I ordered two months ago IS TOO BIG, & I didn't figure it out (due to being lazy) until the day the board arrived. It's the single most important mod on this build. I literally can't do anything besides install the basement rad because the mod holds on the cpu waterblock.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Iv'e had my board for a week now, i'm just waiting for a replacement Dynatron, because the one I ordered two months ago IS TOO BIG, & I didn't figure it out (due to being lazy) until the day the board arrived. It's the single most important mod on this build. I literally can't do anything besides install the basement rad because the mod holds on the cpu waterblock.


It be a good idea to test the board before the 30 day return period.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> It be a good idea to test the board before the 30 day return period.


this x1000000

on day 31 youre gonna fire it up and boom, all DIMM slots are dead.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Do you guys think 2 stock sp120L h100i fans would be ok to split and put to 1 fan header on the Black Edition Motherboard? The sticker on the back of the fans is .36a. So x2 fans would be .72a. Thoughts?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Do you guys think 2 stock sp120L h100i fans would be ok to split and put to 1 fan header on the Black Edition Motherboard? The sticker on the back of the fans is .36a. So x2 fans would be .72a. Thoughts?


just get 4 sp120s, the stock fans they give you have to be the most reject terrible ear grinders ive ever seen.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> just get 4 sp120s, the stock fans they give you have to be the most reject terrible ear grinders ive ever seen.


well that's the plan the sp 120s actually draw less amps so if the stock ones will work the sp 120s will also.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> just get 4 sp120s, the stock fans they give you have to be the most reject terrible ear grinders ive ever seen.


I have also been running 2 of the stock fans on an h80i on my current rig for almost a year now now problems whatsoever. Guess I was one of the lucky ones. I actually pulled the 3 140mm fans out of my air 540 and put it in my old rig.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> this x1000000
> 
> on day 31 youre gonna fire it up and boom, all DIMM slots are dead.


Yep, I just read 2 reviews on newegg with people reporting bad dimm slots.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yep, I just read 2 reviews on newegg with people reporting bad dimm slots.


yeah if the boards arent arriving DOA, there is some kind of DIMM slot issue from what ive seen. Luckily most have been getting 100% working boards lol.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yep, I just read 2 reviews on newegg with people reporting bad dimm slots.


poor guys, I'm glad mine works 100%, for 500 bucks, I'd be royally pissed. As a matter of fact no one would be able to comprehend my speech behind the expletives. I'd sound like an average rapper.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> poor guys, I'm glad mine works 100%, for 500 bucks, I'd be royally pissed. As a matter of fact no one would be able to comprehend my speech behind the expletives. I'd sound like an average rapper.


lol









ive luckily never gotten a DOA main component lol, all my watercooling stuff is the crap that arrives broken


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Do you guys think 2 stock sp120L h100i fans would be ok to split and put to 1 fan header on the Black Edition Motherboard? The sticker on the back of the fans is .36a. So x2 fans would be .72a. Thoughts?


2 fans (like the SP120 performance PWM) are they ok to run to 1 header on the motherboard?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 2 fans (like the SP120 performance PWM) are they ok to run to 1 header on the motherboard?


im running a 6 way splitter from one header on my mobo, i think you should be fine


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 2 fans (like the SP120 performance PWM) are they ok to run to 1 header on the motherboard?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im running a 6 way splitter from one header on my mobo, i think you should be fine


As long as they are PMW fans and all you have going to the MB is the RPM and PMW signal then you can run as many as you want!!! Like szeged said he has the 6 way splitter this takes power from the PSU and has a cable with 2 wires to hook to motherboard!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> As long as they are PMW fans and all you have going to the MB is the RPM and PMW signal then you can run as many as you want!!! Like szeged said he has the 6 way splitter this takes power from the PSU and has a cable with 2 wires to hook to motherboard!!


That sounds good, but apparently there are some fans that don't play well with that idea.

See the recent discussion going on in the 'OCN Water Cooling Club' thread with a Swiftech rep (BramSLI1) there discussing why some fans won't let you run more than 4 off of a mobo PWM header signal.

Here's just a few of the posts (fyi: the issue seems to have everything to do with certain fans and mobos, not Swiftech's splitter, so sounds like it will hold true for all splitters that use the mobo PWM signal and PSU for power) ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just FYI. There appears to be an issue with using our splitter with some fans. The issue is that with some brands the fans will run at full speed when more than four of the headers on the splitters are utilized. We're currently looking into this, but it appears to be with just certain brands. I don't yet have any information on the Cougar fans though. I just thought you'd like to know that there may be an issue if you use more than four of the headers on these splitters with certain fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Any issues with Corsair SP120 quiet and high performance pwm fans?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Actually, those are one of the ones that we've had particular issues with. We're not sure why exactly, but it looks like it might have something to do with the way Cosair implements PWM control for these fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh man, I just bought more fans for a push/pull config on both my 480mm rads. Is this for both quiet and high performance versions?
> 
> Anyone know if other splitters would work for 8 SP120s?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right now it looks like both versions of these fans and the issue appears to be related to the IC used for PWM control for these fans. The current used to carry the PWM signal for our fans is quite low, but it appears that Corsairs needs a higher current to register the PWM signal. Since this is the case once you plug in more than 4 fans the current becomes too low for the Corsair fans to detect it and they subsequently run at full speed. This has been confirmed by our engineer here.


I ran into similar issues a while back when I took a GeLid 4-way PWM splitter cable and tried to expand upon it to do 10 fans. I couldn't figure out what I did wrong that made the fans spin at full speed when it worked fine with just 4-5 fans. Now I think I know it wasn't my fault afterall.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im running a 6 way splitter from one header on my mobo, i think you should be fine


Ha I don't need that much!!! Ill be using this splitter. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026

Ill be using 3 of them 2 for the 4 sp120 in push pull on the h100i and 1 for 2 of the front intake fans in the Air 540. Ill be using fan xpert 2 for the fan controller. Ive been using it for this past year and really like it and haven't had any problems with it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Ha I don't need that much!!! Ill be using this splitter. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026
> 
> Ill be using 3 of them 2 for the 4 sp120 in push pull on the h100i and 1 for 2 of the front intake fans in the Air 540. Ill be using fan xpert 2 for the fan controller. Ive been using it for this past year and really like it and haven't had any problems with it.


heres what i use









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_82&products_id=29694


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> heres what i use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_82&products_id=29694


Nice! So I should be good 2 go then with just 2 going to 1 header. Thanks guys


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Nice! So I should be good 2 go then with just 2 going to 1 header. Thanks guys


yep 2 will be perfectly fine


----------



## kpoeticg

Almost all PWM fans run at a 25kHZ frequency with the exception of a few, Corsair fans being among them. 25kHZ is pretty much industry standard. Anybody that makes their fans run on a different frequency is pretty much doing it for a marketing reason like Corsair did with Corsair Link. Corsair Link's PWM control doesn't work well with other fans either. They should still work, just sound clicky from the lower frequency.

For the most part, you're fine running a ton of fans off a PWM splitter. Just a few exceptions


----------



## jamiee

My fan configuration for the Air 540 is:

1. Case Front (intake) = *2x Corsair AF140 QE* (using 2-way - 3pin splitter off motherboard).

2. Case Rear (exhaust) = *1x Corsair AF140 QE* (3pin directly off motherboard).

3. H100i (exhaust) = *4x Corsair SP120 QE in push/pull* (using H100i fan controller via Corsair Link).

4. AX860i PSU = Fan controlled by Corsair Link.

This will be my first time using Corsair Link and I'm hoping it all works out well.
Worst case - I will have to find another way of running the 4x SP120's on the H100i while keeping the cabling relatively tidy.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> My fan configuration for the Air 540 is:
> 
> 1. Case Front (intake) = *2x Corsair AF140 QE* (using 2-way - 3pin splitter off motherboard).
> 
> 2. Case Rear (exhaust) = *1x Corsair AF140 QE* (3pin directly off motherboard).
> 
> 3. H100i (exhaust) = *4x Corsair SP120 QE in push/pull* (using H100i fan controller via Corsair Link).
> 
> 4. AX860i PSU = Fan controlled by Corsair Link.
> 
> This will be my first time using Corsair Link and I'm hoping it all works out well.
> Worst case - I will have to find another way of running the 4x SP120's on the H100i while keeping the cabling relatively tidy.


good luck with the link as I have read a lot of horror stories about it..


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> My fan configuration for the Air 540 is:
> 
> 1. Case Front (intake) = *2x Corsair AF140 QE* (using 2-way - 3pin splitter off motherboard).
> 
> 2. Case Rear (exhaust) = *1x Corsair AF140 QE* (3pin directly off motherboard).
> 
> 3. H100i (exhaust) = *4x Corsair SP120 QE in push/pull* (using H100i fan controller via Corsair Link).
> 
> 4. AX860i PSU = Fan controlled by Corsair Link.
> 
> This will be my first time using Corsair Link and I'm hoping it all works out well.
> Worst case - I will have to find another way of running the 4x SP120's on the H100i while keeping the cabling relatively tidy.


For me this is how i'm setting mine up. With this splitter
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026

1. Pump is going to CPU header

2. H100i Exhaust x4 Corsair SP120 HP PWM in push pull x2 going to 1 header x2 going to 2nd header

3. Front Intake x3 Corsair SP120 HP PWM x2 going to 1 header 1 going to a header

4. Rear Exhaust Corsair AF140 QE going to the closest header

Yes i've heard horror stories about the corsair link also so im just staying away from it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> It be a good idea to test the board before the 30 day return period.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> this x1000000
> 
> on day 31 youre gonna fire it up and boom, all DIMM slots are dead.


meh, I purchased an advanced RMA plan & extended warranty. Not like I would get a new one any time soon if it was DOA.

USPS day 7, still in california. = fail. I hate the government for so many reasons, usps is one of them.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> meh, I purchased an advanced RMA plan & extended warranty. Not like I would get a new one any time soon if it was DOA.
> 
> USPS day 7, still in california. = fail. I hate the government for so many reasons, usps is one of them.


i wish USPS would just shut down already lol.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> My fan configuration for the Air 540 is:
> 
> 1. Case Front (intake) = *2x Corsair AF140 QE* (using 2-way - 3pin splitter off motherboard).
> 
> 2. Case Rear (exhaust) = *1x Corsair AF140 QE* (3pin directly off motherboard).
> 
> 3. H100i (exhaust) = *4x Corsair SP120 QE in push/pull* (using H100i fan controller via Corsair Link).
> 
> 4. AX860i PSU = Fan controlled by Corsair Link.
> 
> This will be my first time using Corsair Link and I'm hoping it all works out well.
> Worst case - I will have to find another way of running the 4x SP120's on the H100i while keeping the cabling relatively tidy.


Why do you want that ripoff of a PSU?

Corsair Link is still as broken as its silly

Why not save some money and get something just as good for less?


----------



## Raghar

BTW do you know what I did? I just preordered from a shop in a foreign country. It wasn't NCIX. However I used cash on delivery payment method. Which removes all problems with precharged credit cards.


----------



## Nammi

Seems like one of the Swedish sites received a few mobos, 8 according to the site.

http://www.webhallen.com/se-sv/hardvara/182816-asus_rampage_iv_black_edition-ac4-eatx-x79


----------



## Arm3nian

4930k for $539 at amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-4930K-Technology-Processors-BX80633I74930K/dp/B00EMHM622/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386099641&sr=8-1&keywords=4930k

I got mine for 579.. oh well, it will be here today.


----------



## skupples

WooHooo My package is still in reolinda california. Last scan nov 27th.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yep, I just read 2 reviews on newegg with people reporting bad dimm slots.


bent pin nub probably.

funny fact @ usps phone number. Pressing the open keypad button tells the robot to hang up on you.

"we will let you know if we found your lost package in a couple days" IT SHOULD OF ONLY TAKEN A COUPLE DAYS TO GET HERE WYR VEtfhb yj fnutfjhgdyrb gjfd byr gfjh

Ordering another one. My brain is going to explode. Just one more reason to hate the government.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> WooHooo My package is still in reolinda california. Last scan nov 27th.
> bent pin nub probably.


Everything I ordered is getting here *earlier* except my ppcs order because it took them 3 days to find out the ek titan se backplate is the same as the ek 780ti backplate and they didn't have any in stock, when it showed they did, this just delayed my entire order. Luckily the auto notify on the evga site for the 780ti backplate allowed me to get one.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Everything I ordered is getting here *earlier* except my ppcs order because it took them 3 days to find out the ek titan se backplate is the same as the ek 780ti backplate and they didn't have any in stock, when it showed they did, this just delayed my entire order. Luckily the auto notify on the evga site for the 780ti backplate allowed me to get one.


Yeah... I just ordered another one, spent more than the item cost to get over night shipping. I'll just re-sell the other two. I'm not waiting a week for USPS to find it, then another week for it to get here. OH! & they won't even refund the shipping even though their dumbass employee's/machines lost the package. This pisses me off more than the NCIX stuff, just goes to show how bad the government is with anything they touch. This is the third package in a month they have lost. Figures, coming from Reolinda california & all.

here i was all honkeydory omw home from work thinking about finally getting started, & NOPE! Worth the 30$ shipping to be done with the waiting game.


----------



## Raghar

So how long do you think it would take my preorder would change to MB delivered to my doors?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> So how long do you think it would take my preorder would change to MB delivered to my doors?


I don't understand the question.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah... I just ordered another one, spent more than the item cost to get over night shipping. I'll just re-sell the other two. I'm not waiting a week for USPS to find it, then another week for it to get here. OH! & they won't even refund the shipping even though their dumbass employee's/machines lost the package. This pisses me off more than the NCIX stuff, just goes to show how bad the government is with anything they touch. This is the third package in a month they have lost. Figures, coming from Reolinda california & all.
> 
> here i was all honkeydory omw home from work thinking about finally getting started, & NOPE! Worth the 30$ shipping to be done with the waiting game.


I paid for 2 day on literally everything to start today, it cost me over $100 for expedited shipping, now I have everything but my wc supplies because an order I placed last week just got updated to shipped, and I don't even know if they shipped it or printed the label. Fcpu might use some cheap packaging but at least they ship it out quick, especially when I pay so much for shipping.

EVGA is awesome, I ordered the backplate yesterday afternoon and they shipped it out, got it today at noon, with 2 day.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't understand the question.


He wants you to guess when he'll get it if he preorders.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I paid for 2 day on literally everything to start today, it cost me over $100 for expedited shipping, now I have everything but my wc supplies because an order I placed last week just got updated to shipped, and I don't even know if they shipped it or printed the label. Fcpu might use some cheap packaging but at least they ship it out quick, especially when I pay so much for shipping.
> 
> EVGA is awesome, I ordered the backplate yesterday afternoon and they shipped it out, got it today at noon, with 2 day.


I need to finalize my decision and start ordering parts, at least starting w/ the GPU/ CPU blocks. I think I'm ultimately gonna go w/ the Raystorm / XSPC GPU blocks w/ LED's due to the looks. That + I've heard some horror stories w/ the EK acrylic blocks cracking easily. So that worries me a bit. Else I MAY have gotten the EK GPU blocks for brighter lights shining in my rig lol.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> He wants you to guess when he'll get it if he preorders.
> I need to finalize my decision and start ordering parts, at least starting w/ the GPU/ CPU blocks. I think I'm ultimately gonna go w/ the Raystorm / XSPC GPU blocks w/ LED's due to the looks. That + I've heard some horror stories w/ the EK acrylic blocks cracking easily. So that worries me a bit. Else I MAY have gotten the EK GPU blocks for brighter lights shining in my rig lol.


Well I have the EK clear arylic blocks and they look so good and are quality made. I am very pleased with them..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> He wants you to guess when he'll get it if he preorders.
> I need to finalize my decision and start ordering parts, at least starting w/ the GPU/ CPU blocks. I think I'm ultimately gonna go w/ the Raystorm / XSPC GPU blocks w/ LED's due to the looks. That + I've heard some horror stories w/ the EK acrylic blocks cracking easily. So that worries me a bit. Else I MAY have gotten the EK GPU blocks for brighter lights shining in my rig lol.


Iv'e seen a few of those stories too. They almost always involve people taking them apart for no reason when they first get them.

Like, it's a clear acrylic block. You can see inside of it, why do you need to take it apart besides to satisfy some tinkering urge.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I paid for 2 day on literally everything to start today, it cost me over $100 for expedited shipping, now I have everything but my wc supplies because an order I placed last week just got updated to shipped, and I don't even know if they shipped it or printed the label. Fcpu might use some cheap packaging but at least they ship it out quick, especially when I pay so much for shipping.
> 
> EVGA is awesome, I ordered the backplate yesterday afternoon and they shipped it out, got it today at noon, with 2 day.


Yeah my favorate thing about Frozen is how fast they process and ship. You're right they do like to only use paper packaging material as opposed to bubble wrap or whatnot, but I like the paper especially if they use enough of it. It's better than those dang pillows imho.

I bought a Cyberpower 900W UPS from Amazon one time, and they packaged it in a box with those stupid packing pillows, and it's a heavy item - ~25lbs or so - and it had smashed all the air out of those packing pillows so it was sliding around in the box until there was almost nothing left of it. The shipping box and the UPS's box itself were in tatters, the deflated packing pillows were hanging out, and through all of the mangled holes in both boxes I could actually see the scuffed up UPS itself with the cord hanging out when the Fedex man tried to just leave it like that at my doorstep. lol.

I had to pick it up and chase him down to refuse to accept shipment. Amazon tried to fight me on giving me my money back too, at least until they received the package back. I can only imagine what it looked like after the return trip. Right after that Amazon began putting a disclaimer on their UPS's saying that they cannot be returned to Amazon, so I guess they're now passing off all claims like mine onto the manufacturer because Amazon can't package them right.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't understand the question.
> 
> 
> 
> He wants you to guess when he'll get it if he preorders.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I paid for 2 day on literally everything to start today, it cost me over $100 for expedited shipping, now I have everything but my wc supplies because an order I placed last week just got updated to shipped, and I don't even know if they shipped it or printed the label. Fcpu might use some cheap packaging but at least they ship it out quick, especially when I pay so much for shipping.
> 
> EVGA is awesome, I ordered the backplate yesterday afternoon and they shipped it out, got it today at noon, with 2 day.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I need to finalize my decision and start ordering parts, at least starting w/ the GPU/ CPU blocks. I think I'm ultimately gonna go w/ the Raystorm / XSPC GPU blocks w/ LED's due to the looks. That + I've heard some horror stories w/ the EK acrylic blocks cracking easily. So that worries me a bit. Else I MAY have gotten the EK GPU blocks for brighter lights shining in my rig lol.
Click to expand...

I have 4 of the EK full coverage CSQ's with back plates on order, the full coverage looks soooo awesome when all polished and clear.

Also using EK clean CSQ on the ram and CPU, and eagerly awaiting the board block!

I'm going with all Clear EK on this build.

The GPU bridges should be fun on this build, as the 4 GPU's pair up to make up 2 of the 3 loops with the top 840 rad and lower 840 rad.

I have a dual parallel ordered for the upper two cards, and a quad semi parallel ordered to mod into a "left handed" dual for the lower two cards.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

hrrrmm. The board block... That should be here any day now, right?

I may put my chipest & mosfet on a tiny second loop. a high quality 120 should be enough to cool it right?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have 4 of the EK full coverage CSQ's with back plates on order, the full coverage looks soooo awesome when all polished and clear.
> 
> Also using EK clean CSQ on the ram and CPU, and eagerly awaiting the board block!
> 
> I'm going with all Clear EK on this build.
> 
> The GPU bridges should be fun on this build, as the 4 GPU's pair up to make up 2 of the 3 loops with the top 840 rad and lower 840 rad.
> 
> I have a dual parallel ordered for the upper two cards, and a quad semi parallel ordered to mod into a "left handed" dual for the lower two cards.
> 
> Darlene


What would you recommend best for 2-3 GPU's I'll be adding a 3rd later, as far as a bridge? Parrallel or is there a way to have one side on one loop and the other on a sep loop? Do you use the LED's in yours?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have 4 of the EK full coverage CSQ's with back plates on order, the full coverage looks soooo awesome when all polished and clear.
> 
> Also using EK clean CSQ on the ram and CPU, and eagerly awaiting the board block!
> 
> I'm going with all Clear EK on this build.
> 
> The GPU bridges should be fun on this build, as the 4 GPU's pair up to make up 2 of the 3 loops with the top 840 rad and lower 840 rad.
> 
> I have a dual parallel ordered for the upper two cards, and a quad semi parallel ordered to mod into a "left handed" dual for the lower two cards.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> What would you recommend best for 2-3 GPU's I'll be adding a 3rd later, as far as a bridge? Parrallel or is there a way to have one side on one loop and the other on a sep loop? Do you use the LED's in yours?
Click to expand...

It depends on what blocks you use on your GPUs. The plexi, and full coverage acetal ones use the EK terminal system, so it's easy to plumb anything you want, or use a connector block, but that puts all 3 in either serial or parallel, you don't get to mix 'n match.

The full coverage plexi CSQ is the only one that uses the link and bridge system, which makes it a bit of a challenge for my planned setup, but looks the best to me.

You're working in a caselabs, so you can pretty much do what you like the looks of most with al lthat room.

As to whether you run serial or parallel on the GPU's depends on what else is in the loop.

Generally, for 1 or 2 cards in a single loop, serial is fine and easy to plumb.

For 4 cards, (not divided up into 2 loops like mine) the "semi-parallel" is the best of both worlds. It puts two pairs of paralleled cards in series.

That breaks down to the overall restriction of a single card with each of the 4 getting 1/2 the total flow rate.

If you're running a dual loop with the GPUs on their own loop, then 3 cards do fine in parallel or series.

If it's a single loop then all the cards, assuming 3 or 4 in series, adds more restriction that you want, so either parallel or a pair in parallel with the 3rd in series works better.

3 Cards is kinda the 'tweener" point . . . too much for series, but may not get enough flow in parallel in a single loop setup.

I will most likely be installing white LEDs where possible. The loops are colored, so I'm using white LED fans to let the colors show properly.

Darlene

I run a serial block setup on my tri-fire 7970 Matrix rig:



But there's 3 D5's in that remote cooling module:


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> He wants you to guess when he'll get it if he preorders.


Actually I preordered already. But a wild guess from random posters on internet is about as correct as current shop's estimations.


----------



## Arm3nian

And I thought FCPU's packaging was cheap, you guys should see Amazon. Since one of my orders had an 840 pro and a 4930k, they figured since the ssd is indestructible so is the cpu and put 0 packaging... not even paper. Now to wait on ppcs... I really wish there was a wc retailer in the west with the selection of FCPU/PPCS.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why do you want that ripoff of a PSU?
> 
> Corsair Link is still as broken as its silly
> 
> Why not save some money and get something just as good for less?


Never said I paid full price for it








I'll try Corsair Link, and if it sux... I'll move onto something else. No biggie.

My GTX 780 Ti arrived today (YaY!) so I just got that installed and wired up.
All that's left to do is plug some power into this bad boy and fire'er up!
.... But it's been a loooooong day and I'm really not in the mood of having to deal with a Windows install right now; so maybe tomorrow








(Guess I'm waiting for the 1TB EVO to arrive as well -still hasn't shipped- but I don't need it immediately anyway).


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> And I thought FCPU's packaging was cheap, you guys should see Amazon. Since one of my orders had an 840 pro and a 4930k, they figured since the ssd is indestructible so is the cpu and put 0 packaging... not even paper. Now to wait on ppcs... I really wish there was a wc retailer in the west with the selection of FCPU/PPCS.


So they put a sticker with your address on that? Show us photos.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just that one, lol . . . .
> 
> With 4 R9-290X's and 3 loops.
> 
> Here's an earlier mockup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I know, I'm subbed to your Stretch Limo build. I was just messin with ya








Absolutely incredible build by the way!!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I got to ask. Was you a chemistry major?


Looks suspiciously similar to Walter White's "workstation" doesn't it??


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Do you guys think 2 stock sp120L h100i fans would be ok to split and put to 1 fan header on the Black Edition Motherboard? The sticker on the back of the fans is .36a. So x2 fans would be .72a. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 2 fans (like the SP120 performance PWM) are they ok to run to 1 header on the motherboard?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 2 fans (like the SP120 performance PWM) are they ok to run to 1 header on the motherboard?
> 
> 
> 
> im running a 6 way splitter from one header on my mobo, i think you should be fine
Click to expand...

most important is the amps. dont over amp them ! IE 4deltas = death of fan header ... or one for that matter.... also to note that amp raiting is misleading, most fans will never use that much but can surpass it at startup
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> It be a good idea to test the board before the 30 day return period.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> this x1000000
> 
> on day 31 youre gonna fire it up and boom, all DIMM slots are dead.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> meh, I purchased an advanced RMA plan & extended warranty. Not like I would get a new one any time soon if it was DOA.
> 
> USPS day 7, still in california. = fail. *I hate the government for so many reasons, usps is one of them*.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Everything I ordered is getting here *earlier* except my ppcs order because it took them 3 days to find out the ek titan se backplate is the same as the ek 780ti backplate and they didn't have any in stock, when it showed they did, this just delayed my entire order. Luckily the auto notify on the evga site for the 780ti backplate allowed me to get one.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah... I just ordered another one, spent more than the item cost to get over night shipping. I'll just re-sell the other two. I'm not waiting a week for USPS to find it, then another week for it to get here. OH! & they won't even refund the shipping even though their dumbass employee's/machines lost the package. This pisses me off more than the NCIX stuff, *just goes to show how bad the government is with anything they touch*. This is the third package in a month they have lost. Figures, coming from Reolinda california & all.
> 
> here i was all honkeydory omw home from work thinking about finally getting started, & NOPE! Worth the 30$ shipping to be done with the waiting game.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> He wants you to guess when he'll get it if he preorders.
> I need to finalize my decision and start ordering parts, at least starting w/ the GPU/ CPU blocks. I think I'm ultimately gonna go w/ the Raystorm / XSPC GPU blocks w/ LED's due to the looks. That + I've heard some horror stories w/ the EK acrylic blocks cracking easily. So that worries me a bit. Else I MAY have gotten the EK GPU blocks for brighter lights shining in my rig lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Iv'e seen a few of those stories too. They almost always involve people taking them apart for no reason when they first get them.
> 
> Like, it's a clear acrylic block. You can see inside of it, why do you need to take it apart besides to satisfy some tinkering urge.
Click to expand...

hahaha i have to say everytime you post i cry out " there are smart ppl left ! "


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> So they put a sticker with your address on that? Show us photos.


Well it was a box, that's about it. No photos yet, will take a group picture of my parts when they all come


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> And I thought FCPU's packaging was cheap, you guys should see Amazon. Since one of my orders had an 840 pro and a 4930k, they figured since the ssd is indestructible so is the cpu and put 0 packaging... not even paper. Now to wait on ppcs... I really wish there was a wc retailer in the west with the selection of FCPU/PPCS.


Have you considered using Hellfire Toyz they dont have as big of a selection but are in Arizona so closer to you and they have good prices and good service!


----------



## binormalkilla

4.6 GHz stable for ~13h....but about 5 minutes later my pc hard rebooted when I pulled up IE to download chrome. Guess L3 cache or the PCH is still unstable. Going to test prime blended some tonight.

I realized that I forgot to set the memory profile to XMP, so it was set to auto. This uses 1N command rate instead of 2N. Now I'm probably stable. Going to try for 4.7 GHz tonight. I've been really liberal with the VCore so I bet I can hit it.


----------



## VertKiller

Two quick questions.

1. Can you check memory slots without a cpu installed and use just one stick to check or do you need all 8 to make sure all slots are working?

2. What os are you using?

I plan on win7 64 Pro. I don't use Ipad/phones so I'm thinking the aggravation of win 8.1 is not worth the loss of hair. Any real advantage of 8 over 7 besides the stress of not being able to find what you want?

I guess that's three questions.







Sorry if that sound like some stupid questions but I have always had all my parts at one time for a build and never thought about things not working. I have never had a bad motherboard in any of my builds. Now I'm a bit worried that I should make sure this board does work as it should.


----------



## szeged

anyone know what amazons policy for returning/refunding/replacing a 4930k is? Im assuming its like neweggs? 30 days free replacement, no refund though?


----------



## KoSoVaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone know what amazons policy for returning/refunding/replacing a 4930k is? Im assuming its like neweggs? 30 days free replacement, no refund though?


30 days refund no questions asked.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=200572800


----------



## skupples

WooT Dynatron (from new vendor) will be here tomorrow. TAKE THAT USPS. Also cost 1/2 the price of 2 day fed.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoSoVaR*
> 
> 30 days refund no questions asked.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=200572800


ah cool, was just wondering because it didnty have a specific cpu return policy like newegg does.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> poor guys, I'm glad mine works 100%, for 500 bucks, I'd be royally pissed. As a matter of fact no one would be able to comprehend my speech behind the expletives. I'd sound like an average rapper.


I used all 8 memory slots and all 4 Intel SATA ports in RAID 10 and 2 asmedia SATA ports to run my 2 optical drives (and despite what I read, you can use them for optical drives), and all works so far. Only used 1 of the PCI-E slots so far, so can't vouch for the other 5.


----------



## szeged

!!!!!! FINALLY !!!!!!


----------



## szeged

Pretty sure im the first one to grab this round of shipment so hopefully i actually get one unlike people that had to wait a week to get tracking. It updated the page as soon as i refreshed twice in a row (on accident lol)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Pretty sure im the first one to grab this round of shipment so hopefully i actually get one unlike people that had to wait a week to get tracking. It updated the page as soon as i refreshed twice in a row (on accident lol)


it is now saying out of stock with auto notify... so you are one of the lucky ones!!! But you go to the page and it will allow you to preorder... So I stand corrected....

going to resist going to wait till Jan!!! trying trying to resist but wallet tell me to use it. Helpppppppppppppppppppppppp


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it is now saying out of stock with auto notify... so you are one of the lucky ones!!!


its still showing pre order for me







want me to grab you one? lol









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132053

yep still showing pre orders available after refreshing just now.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> !!!!!! FINALLY !!!!!!


I'll be the second one, brother!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'll be the second one, brother!


woohoo nice! i cant believe you got standard shipping! that would kill me rofl.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> its still showing pre order for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> want me to grab you one? lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132053
> 
> yep still showing pre orders available after refreshing just now.


yeah please do that and I will get it from you in Jan!!!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yeah please do that and I will get it from you in Jan!!!!


lol







lets hope we can completely skip the pre order phase by january lol.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> woohoo nice! i cant believe you got standard shipping! that would kill me rofl.


I won't have time to swap the board out til next weekend, and I'm stingy with shipping. lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I won't have time to swap the board out til next weekend, and I'm stingy with shipping. lol


aww







im going to ravage the newegg box like a toddler on christmas trying to get to his turboman doll.

also, newegg is back to out of stock and pre orders are down again.

now - to order the 4930k from amazon or newegg, amazon i have better customer support etc etc, but $10 shipping that takes 2 days longer, newegg customer support is non existant, but free shipping


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it is now saying out of stock with auto notify... so you are one of the lucky ones!!! But you go to the page and it will allow you to preorder... So I stand corrected....
> 
> going to resist going to wait till Jan!!! trying trying to resist but wallet tell me to use it. Helpppppppppppppppppppppppp


That's a Good old fashioned newegg trick. They have been doing that for as long as I can remember with high demand items. I'm not sure if it's a site design flaw, or intentional.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'll be the second one, brother!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congratulations! Glad you got in on that!


----------



## jamiee

Looks like the egg is supposed to be receiving stock tomorrow.

I wonder how long these orders will sit in "packaging" ?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's a Good old fashioned newegg trick. They have been doing that for as long as I can remember with high demand items. I'm not sure if it's a site design flaw, or intentional.
> Congratulations! Glad you got in on that!


it did that on the 290x release also when i was trying to get one lol, i looked at the listing page for the 290x, all sold out, click on each individual one, in stock...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Looks like the egg is supposed to be receiving stock tomorrow.
> 
> I wonder how long these orders will sit in "packaging" ?


Can't be any worse than NCiX.


----------



## seross69

just for the hell of it I tried to pre-order but it not let me























not fast enough I guess!!

when I get to checkout page it says
Quote:


> ASUS RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDI has been removed from shopping cart due to quantity limitation/insufficient stock. Some combo items might be affected by this


.


----------



## KoSoVaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ah cool, was just wondering because it didnty have a specific cpu return policy like newegg does.


Amazon has my favorite return policy. Ever.

Don't abuse it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoSoVaR*
> 
> Amazon has my favorite return policy. Ever.
> 
> Don't abuse it.


Yeah i like their return policy, and id probably only ever return if - it was within the 30 day period and if the 4930k i got was just absolutely the worst thing ive ever seen lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoSoVaR*
> 
> Amazon has my favorite return policy. Ever.
> 
> Don't abuse it.


some day the awesomeness of Amazon will go away. The CEO is a cold blooded capitalist to the core. He has dreams of shutting newegg, tigerdirect, NCiX, & Ebay down. If he even achieves half of that all the awesomeness we know & love will go away. He has the wool pulled over so many peoples eyes. They think he's super liberal no need for profits man. LOL.

(by people, I mean investors & wall street annalists._)


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Can't be any worse than NCiX.


Let it go...


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> some day the awesomeness of Amazon will go away. The CEO is a cold blooded capitalist to the core. He has dreams of shutting newegg, tigerdirect, NCiX, & Ebay down. If he even achieves half of that all the awesomeness we know & love will go away.


while im all for shutting down a company(newegg) that destroys mobo's on purpose so they dont have to replace/refund them, that would kill the end consumer in the long run =\


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Let it go...


Hi Chris, any word on if you guys will be getting your RIVEBE stock on the 5th as planned? got a few friends who want to order from you guys over there.


----------



## KoSoVaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> while im all for shutting down a company(newegg) that destroys mobo's on purpose so they dont have to replace/refund them, that would kill the end consumer in the long run =\


I don't disagree at all. But right now, this is where we are.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Let it go...


lol, all I said is newegg's shipping can't be any worse than yours. I obviously don't hate you guys that much, I just ordered a few Ducky Shine keyboards from you.(because amazon & newegg don't carry them, & small time keyboard niche stores charge out the nose)

It's the holiday season. Most of these major companies are running @ 200% capacity. This is why iv'e been ordering from Ebay mostly. Example: Ordered another Dynatron today @ 1PM, had UPS shipping number by 4PM, will be here tomorrow by 12PM.


----------



## szeged

I think we should forget all about the NCIX pre order fiasco, no company has a perfect track record for that kind of thing, and it was not all one persons fault, and im sure it wasnt all NCIX's fault either, asus probably messed up their order amount big time.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I think we should forget all about the NCIX pre order fiasco, no company has a perfect track record for that kind of thing, and it was not all one persons fault, and im sure it wasnt all NCIX's fault either, asus probably messed up their order amount big time.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*












I just feel that Chris/NCIX got the brunt of the attack when they really couldnt control how many boards asus shipped to them


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> aww
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im going to ravage the newegg box like a toddler on christmas trying to get to his turboman doll.
> 
> also, newegg is back to out of stock and pre orders are down again.
> 
> now - to order the 4930k from amazon or newegg, amazon i have better customer support etc etc, but $10 shipping that takes 2 days longer, newegg customer support is non existant, but free shipping


Lmao @ turboman doll

Didn't you score a 4960X?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's a Good old fashioned newegg trick. They have been doing that for as long as I can remember with high demand items. I'm not sure if it's a site design flaw, or intentional.
> Congratulations! Glad you got in on that!


Thanks brother, actually thanks to you and your build log


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Lmao @ turboman doll
> 
> Didn't you score a 4960X?


i got a 3960x locally for $600, ended up selling it for $750 since i got tired of waiting for this board lol.


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hi Chris, any word on if you guys will be getting your RIVEBE stock on the 5th as planned? got a few friends who want to order from you guys over there.


Can find out tomorrow, everyone's gone home already


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Can find out tomorrow, everyone's gone home already


Cool, thanks!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I think we should forget all about the NCIX pre order fiasco, no company has a perfect track record for that kind of thing, and it was not all one persons fault, and im sure it wasnt all NCIX's fault either, asus probably messed up their order amount big time.


Chris has been helpful no doubt, but I don't think we should have to get a manager involved to receive a product lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Chris has been helpful no doubt, but I don't think we should have to get a manager involved to receive a product lol


Sometimes its an unfortunate necessity, ive had to get managers involved to get a free sandwich from restaurants lol, just the name of the game i guess. Hopefully in the future we never have situations like this, but for now there will always be some kind of error at some company somewhere in the world which causes us to request managerial assistance


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just feel that Chris/NCIX got the brunt of the attack when they really couldnt control how many boards asus shipped to them


yeah yeah. We have been through all of this. Miss leading information leads to pissed off customers, doesn't matter where the fault lies. They should of been on the same page as Canada with "eta unknown", instead of coming up with new dates every 3 days. least Chris came in here to attempt @ calm the storm.

anyways.





I have my board here, & hopefully it doesn't have a dead dimm or PCIE.... Getting a replacement right now would be impossible.

I'll be firing it up tomorrow before diving in with the back plate mod. Just need to figure out where the hell I stashed my H80.


----------



## szeged

So back to the original point of this thread....

Should i order the 4930k from amazon or newegg?









if i were to go with neweggs 3 day shipping tonight think it would get here friday? or monday? their shipping is always tricky, seems like it takes whatever they state + 1 more day. Could pony up the extra $11 and get amazon 2 day.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> So back to the original point of this thread....
> 
> Should i order the 4930k from amazon or newegg?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if i were to go with neweggs 3 day shipping tonight think it would get here friday? or monday? their shipping is always tricky, seems like it takes whatever they state + 1 more day. Could pony up the extra $11 and get amazon 2 day.


Amazon. 3 day shipping from tomorrow would likely show up mon/tues next week.

I signed up for Amazon Prime during the 6 month free promo, still no bill after 9 months.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> !!!!!! FINALLY !!!!!!


wow.....................I have literally been camped out on the product page for the better part of ALL F$#@ing day and two of you manage to get preorders.........................

May I inquire(before discharging both barrels of my 12 gauge firearm into the roof of my mouth)as to how the hell you pulled that off? I would sincerely appreciate any tips/tricks/insider trading hints

Shipping/Receiving spycams/employee family members/Great Uncle's next door neighbor heresay/payoffs/etc etc

thanks in advance............................lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Amazon. 3 day shipping from tomorrow would likely show up mon/tues next week.
> 
> I signed up for Amazon Prime during the 6 month free promo, still no bill after 9 months.


well in that case



boom done.

also i really need to clean my inbox...20k in there wth lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> wow.....................I have literally been camped out on the product page for the better part of ALL F$#@ing day and two of you manage to get preorders.........................
> 
> May I inquire(before discharging both barrels of my 12 gauge firearm into the roof of my mouth)as to how the hell you pulled that off? I would sincerely appreciate any tips/tricks/insider trading hints
> 
> Shipping/Receiving spycams/employee family members/Great Uncle's next door neighbor heresay/payoffs/etc etc
> 
> thanks in advance............................lol


You gotta camp the actual product page, the list of mobo's will always show "coming soon" or w/e the hell it is.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> wow.....................I have literally been camped out on the product page for the better part of ALL F$#@ing day and two of you manage to get preorders.........................
> 
> May I inquire(before discharging both barrels of my 12 gauge firearm into the roof of my mouth)as to how the hell you pulled that off? I would sincerely appreciate any tips/tricks/insider trading hints
> 
> Shipping/Receiving spycams/employee family members/Great Uncle's next door neighbor heresay/payoffs/etc etc
> 
> thanks in advance............................lol


ive been camped out on the newegg page for the past week hitting f5 every 5 minutes, finally got it. I got bored and just started hitting f5 repeatedly and it actually showed up with "pre order" instead of notify, i was in shock i was staring at the page for like 10 seconds before i realized what it said.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

lmao.......... cool so I'm not the only one guess I'll just hang in there thank you kind sir!


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

cool........ thank you kind sir!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> lmao.......... cool so I'm not the only one guess I'll just hang in there thank you kind sir!


http://www.compsource.com/ttechnote.asp?part_no=RAMPAGEIVBLACKED&vid=Asus-46 will be getting some in stock on friday, maybe you can get in on that?

NCIX shows the 5th as their arrival date.

Dont give up!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> lmao.......... cool so I'm not the only one guess I'll just hang in there thank you kind sir!


I have faith! You can get one of these amazing motherboards too! Just gotta camp all sources. I'm glad I didn't end up like Jimmy Wild. He canceled his NCiX pre-order out of rage just a few hours before we all got our shipping #'s, then jumped on newegg pre-order & got delayed... Wonder if he ever got his board.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

so the magical "AutoNotify" urine-yellow tab periodically morphs into "PreOrder" at will

mmmkay Note to self; duly noted will do.!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> so the magical "AutoNotify" urine-yellow tab periodically morphs into "PreOrder" at will
> 
> mmmkay Note to self; duly noted will do.!


pretty much lol







you have to be on the actual product page though, not the page with the list of asus 2011 motherboards.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have faith! You can get one of these amazing motherboards too! Just gotta camp all sources. I'm glad I didn't end up like Jimmy Wild. He canceled his NCiX pre-order out of rage just a few hours before we all got our shipping #'s, then jumped on newegg pre-order & got delayed... Wonder if he ever got his board.


Appreciate that! First I've heard of "ragecancel" though. Hope it's not contagious. All this endless waiting has weakened my immune system...


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> pretty much lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you have to be on the actual product page though, not the page with the list of asus 2011 motherboards.


Copy that! Browser up and zeroed in for the kill...............................


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Let it go...


wow


----------



## Arm3nian

How do you test the 4930k if watercooling? I have the fan that came with the quad cores will that cool it enough for 20 sec to see if everything works?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> So back to the original point of this thread....
> 
> Should i order the 4930k from amazon or newegg?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if i were to go with neweggs 3 day shipping tonight think it would get here friday? or monday? their shipping is always tricky, seems like it takes whatever they state + 1 more day. Could pony up the extra $11 and get amazon 2 day.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> How do you test the 4930k if watercooling? I have the fan that came with the quad cores will that cool it enough for 20 sec to see if everything works?


that fan will be alright to make sure it will work.

I had a water block on mine with no water in it and I was able to boot into windows and be there for maybe 2 minutes before it shut down. so anything with cooling should be able to...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> How do you test the 4930k if watercooling? I have the fan that came with the quad cores will that cool it enough for 20 sec to see if everything works?


Yupp yupp. Should work, just make sure auto-OC/Boost/mum's is disabled. All I have is this H80, so I hope it's functioning. I don't even have the retention bracket for it anymore, so mounting it should be interesting.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> so the magical "AutoNotify" urine-yellow tab periodically morphs into "PreOrder" at will
> 
> mmmkay Note to self; duly noted will do.!


I signed up for auto-notify on newegg the DAY they listed. Iv'e yet to get a notification. I don't think it works if they never actually get far enough to post "in stock"


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> !!!!!! FINALLY !!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> wow.....................I have literally been camped out on the product page for the better part of ALL F$#@ing day and two of you manage to get preorders.........................
> 
> May I inquire(before discharging both barrels of my 12 gauge firearm into the roof of my mouth)as to how the hell you pulled that off? I would sincerely appreciate any tips/tricks/insider trading hints
> 
> Shipping/Receiving spycams/employee family members/Great Uncle's next door neighbor heresay/payoffs/etc etc
> 
> thanks in advance............................lol
Click to expand...

how does one kill that with no life?
( PLEASE THIS IS NOT A THREAT ! )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> How do you test the 4930k if watercooling? I have the fan that came with the quad cores will that cool it enough for 20 sec to see if everything works?
> 
> 
> 
> Yupp yupp. Should work, just make sure auto-OC/Boost/mum's is disabled. All I have is this H80, so I hope it's functioning. I don't even have the retention bracket for it anymore, so mounting it should be interesting.
Click to expand...

zip ties are your friend !


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> how does one kill that with no life?
> ( PLEASE THIS IS NOT A THREAT ! )
> zip ties are your friend !


DERRRRPPPPP.... Of course! +

I was planning to just sit a brick on top of the pump, but that would of been dangerous.


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> wow


Why wow? There's only so many times you can keep hitting that dead horse....


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> how does one kill that with no life?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Why wow? There's only so many times you can keep hitting that dead horse....


don't worry about it Chris. It's just a toy after all. My emails with Ncix don't even hold a flame to my 2 hours of playing Aliens Colonial marines. Which I also pre-ordered. (last game i'll ever pre-order)

you guys comped my shipping, & didn't charge anymore above the 499$ pre-order price. For that i'm eternally grateful.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*


not funny mmmkay just not funny mmkay ? For one thing my keyboard is black, mkay? Not the color of all those chocolate bars I can't stay away from @ 3am, mmkay? AAAnd my wrist brace just happens to be on my OTHER wrist.......mmkay?!?


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Chris has been helpful no doubt, but I don't think we should have to get a manager involved to receive a product lol


Sometimes it comes to that.. and I have been helping on forums and such (RFD, NCIX etc) for many many years now regardless of my title. When I first started at NCIX answering phones and E-mails, I was doing the same thing then I am here. The only thing that has changed is that I have a lot more responsibility now and not as much free time.. and maybe a few less hairs


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Why wow? There's only so many times you can keep hitting that dead horse....


what you say is true Chris and I am just a follower and watcher as I plan on getting my board after the first of the year. But I do think most of the comments that have been made today is jokes and most have started forgetting. and I am glad you are here and we can ask questions but I also don't envy you with the abuse I saw you take. But I think you are being a little thinned skin today just my 2


----------



## Chris-NCIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> don't worry about it Chris. It's just a toy after all. My emails with Ncix don't even hold a flame to my 2 hours of playing Aliens Colonial marines. Which I also pre-ordered. (last game i'll ever pre-order)
> 
> you guys comped my shipping, & didn't charge anymore above the 499$ pre-order price. For that i'm eternally grateful.


And I hope you like the Ducky's too!









Marine thing.. can't help ya there man but I felt your pain lol.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Why wow? There's only so many times you can keep hitting that dead horse....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> don't worry about it Chris. It's just a toy after all. My emails with Ncix don't even hold a flame to my 2 hours of playing Aliens Colonial marines. Which I also pre-ordered. (last game i'll ever pre-order)
> 
> you guys comped my shipping, & didn't charge anymore above the 499$ pre-order price. For that i'm eternally grateful.


Just glad that they did at least that for you. I am also glad that I didn't have that experience. I almost ordered something from NCIX and something told me not too. Ordered from Newegg instead no problems there. And before someone has something to say, and im only a novice compared to others, this March coming up will make one year with doing business with Newegg, and as it stands right now im approaching 2K+ in business with them and another 2k coming before my 1 year. THATS customer loyalty, and good service earns repeat customers.

But I will say this, you coming here and helping out is grand i give you props for that









I said my piece i'm out.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> wow.....................I have literally been camped out on the product page for the better part of ALL F$#@ing day and two of you manage to get preorders.........................
> 
> May I inquire(before discharging both barrels of my 12 gauge firearm into the roof of my mouth)as to how the hell you pulled that off? I would sincerely appreciate any tips/tricks/insider trading hints
> 
> Shipping/Receiving spycams/employee family members/Great Uncle's next door neighbor heresay/payoffs/etc etc
> 
> thanks in advance............................lol


I use the firefox addon "Check4Change" for stuff like that. Select whatever text on the page you're looking to see if it changes > right click > select an interval for the page to refresh > it does the rest.

Just leave the page open in a tab and the computer will start playing David Bowie's '_Ch.. Ch.. Changes ..._" whenever there's been a change to the page. Works a charm.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I use the firefox addon "Check4Change" for stuff like that. Select whatever text on the page you're looking to see if it changes > right click > select an interval for the page to refresh > it does the rest.
> 
> Just leave the page open in a tab and the computer will start playing David Bowie's '_Ch.. Ch.. Changes ..._" whenever there's been a change to the page. Works a charm.


thanks for this. I did not know they had something like this. I wonder if chrome does also??


----------



## 6steven9

SO i'm a total noob to OC'ing wanted to experiment with ram first since it looks like the easiest i'm running this board with i7 4930k and corsair plats @ 1866. So what I did in the bios I wanted to get to 2133 so i set the dram frequency to 2133 then I went to dram timing settings and set at the top "Rampage Tweak" mode 3 b/c it said it works best with ivy-bridge e then i set CL = 10, tRCD = 10, tRP = 10, tras = 30, CR = 1, stock voltage and that's it. I tried tighter timings but some didn't boot or others took a long time too boot. I'm just curious is it that easy to OC? Everything registered at 2133 and the dram efficiency score in the Asus Tweakit rose a bit i'm going to run prime95 overnight to see if it crashes other than that is there any other advice anyone can give. CPU is my next experiment


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> thanks for this. I did not know they had something like this. I wonder if chrome does also??


Since it's a Chrome extension, the page won't even load properly in Firefox for me to be sure, but a quick google found this you might try out ...

Page Monitor
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/page-monitor/pemhgklkefakciniebenbfclihhmmfcd


----------



## xvxvxv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Looks like the egg is supposed to be receiving stock tomorrow.
> 
> I wonder how long these orders will sit in "packaging" ?










I'll wait for the availability of the month ... But I have not found on any site to buy newegg.com or us.ncix.com or amzon.com help me


----------



## szeged

im gonna be mad if it sits in packaging for more than a few hours after paying for rush processing and 1 day shipping.


----------



## seross69

Amazon is allowing pre-orders if any one interested but no ETA on site I saw... unless you want to pay 999.99 to get it now as it looks like this one is in stock.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Amazon is allowing pre-orders if any one interested but no ETA on site I saw... unless you want to pay 999.99 to get it now as it looks like this one is in stock.


So Amazon finally has the board listed. It's about time.
http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Rampage-IV-Black-Motherboard/dp/B00GIZ3APS/
I like the 'More buying choices' link does show one listed for $999 from "*buyitnow4less*"


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> So Amazon finally has the board listed. It's about time.
> I like the 'other choice' link does show one listed for $999 from "*buyitnow4less*"


yes i also thought it was quiet funny!!!


----------



## szeged

amazon gets preorders right after i get one from newegg







well hopefully i dont have to return mine for any reason, newegg is notorious for smashing socket pins then blaming the customer for it so they dont have to give them a free replacement.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> amazon gets preorders right after i get one from newegg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well hopefully i dont have to return mine for any reason, newegg is notorious for smashing socket pins then blaming the customer for it so they dont have to give them a free replacement.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im gonna be mad if it sits in packaging for more than a few hours after paying for rush processing and 1 day shipping.


Expect three days.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Expect three days.


im prepared for the worst.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im prepared for the worst.


We must have bought returned motherboards. New egg suddenly has auto notify again.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> We must have bought returned motherboards. New egg suddenly has auto notify again.


oh lawd, if i get a mobo with bent pins or a dead dimm slot im driving to newegg HQ ready for a smackdown.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> oh lawd, if i get a mobo with bent pins or a dead dimm slot im driving to newegg HQ ready for a smackdown.


They better be sealed.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> They better be sealed.


if mine isnt its going straight back lol


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> if mine isnt its going straight back lol


Yep, I only buy opened box items at huge discounts.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> They better be sealed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> if mine isnt its going straight back lol


AFAIK none of the Rampage IV Black Edition motherboards have came in sealed in plastic or had any sort of seal to tell if it had been opened or not previously. It's been brought up in this thread before. Skupples brought it up first when he noted that his wasn't. Mine sure wasn't. Everyone else who had the board already and replied said their wasn't either. Asus is not sealing them.


----------



## szeged

well, if mine has any malfunctions at all or even looks like its been previously used, newegg better pull up a seat, use the restroom whatever they have to do because were going to be having a very, very long discussion about it


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Is it normal for these things to have no packaging seals? You know, the seals that show you know one has ALREADY OPENED IT or anything?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Man Skupples, you're so bloody uptight! Just dig in and set the thing up already!
> 
> There were no seals.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> My mobo box wasn't sealed either. No stickers or anything


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, now that you mention it, there were no seals or plastic wrap or anything on my RIVBE box either. I didn't even think about it, just opened it right up and started going through everything.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah same here. Didn't really think about it at all til skup just mentioned it. I'm pretty sure skupples was the first one to even stop a second to think about it


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I use the firefox addon "Check4Change" for stuff like that. Select whatever text on the page you're looking to see if it changes > right click > select an interval for the page to refresh > it does the rest.
> 
> Just leave the page open in a tab and the computer will start playing David Bowie's '_Ch.. Ch.. Changes ..._" whenever there's been a change to the page. Works a charm.


Much appreciated!! Just as an aside, I actually went to bed 12am and when I checked again this morning 8am I noticed the "ETA 12/4/13" was missing from where it was on the product page last night








sigh snooze ya lose (again) lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> Much appreciated!! Just as an aside, I actually went to bed 12am and when I checked again this morning 8am I noticed the "ETA 12/4/13" was missing from where it was on the product page last night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sigh snooze ya lose (again) lol


amazon has them for pre order right now, and they are near newegg, they might be getting stock in today. I would go with that if i were you.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Since it's a Chrome extension, the page won't even load properly in Firefox for me to be sure, but a quick google found this you might try out ...
> 
> Page Monitor
> https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/page-monitor/pemhgklkefakciniebenbfclihhmmfcd


just added to try it out. Thank you!


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> amazon has them for pre order right now, and they are near newegg, they might be getting stock in today. I would go with that if i were you.


Hmmmm......................this is tempting. Says temporarily OOS with an email notification when available and 2 day shipping.
No clue how long the wait for stock to return. I also feel the same as some others here with regards to the "why-is-my-brand-new-expensive-as-&%#!-motherboard-arriving-unwrapped"
syndrome.

Do mothers give live birth to newborns off the sanitized hospital bed onto the mung-infested tile floor of the O/R!?!


----------



## szeged

If anything, i would go ahead and pre order one from amazon, just to make sure you have a back up, then try to get one from newegg who should be getting them around 12:00pm pst today, and if you cant get one from newegg, go with amazon







if you get one from newegg, cancel the amazon preorder lol


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> If anything, i would go ahead and pre order one from amazon, just to make sure you have a back up, then try to get one from newegg who should be getting them around 12:00pm pst today, and if you cant get one from newegg, go with amazon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you get one from newegg, cancel the amazon preorder lol


..........................on the phone with Amazon right now.

sounds like a plan! ty sir


----------



## clone38

Well as the norm us in the UK are getting shafted by our shops ocuk have put another £30 on this motherboard making it £429 so ill wait as ive got a backup board for now and was looking to get the black so that I could start my build so its on hold not till next year.


----------



## skupples

Dynatron out for delivery!!!!!!!!!! Totally worth the 30$ shipping.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-NCIX*
> 
> Let it go...


You should let it go, everytime you respond only to a negative comment you're just fueling people up. Customer service is about being loyal not disloyal. Learn from the past and move forward. Better service in the future will eventually quell out the damages that were done, its common for people to have something as reference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just feel that Chris/NCIX got the brunt of the attack when they really couldnt control how many boards asus shipped to them


Wasn't really about Asus just the way they treated it with the " let's hope it arrives and tell them its today or this week or tomorrow"







He was more or less driving/backing up the false claims so I can't say much for him. The fact he only responded to the negative comments and ignored everything else in the beginning and for his starting post really set a bad example, then putting on the friendly manager act when confronting everyone at once but goes back to saying w/e when behind the email/ phone. Yes there was heat due to people wanting their boards just their methods of crowd control were really unprofessional which just added fuel to the fire







Either way it's an old topic and I'm off it but seems he isn't. I'm sure he'll respond to this though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> wow


^ pretty much sums it up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dynatron out for delivery!!!!!!!!!! Totally worth the 30$ shipping.


Looking up on this Dynatron thing and all I'm getting thus far is server info, is this like a high end grade blower? lol It reminds me of the 90's.

On topic, I'm surprised we haven't seen more people in here due to the many orders, as I've seen many posts amongst the other threads of others getting theirs or attempting to order lol.
Once finals are over I'll be updating the OP w/ error info / clocks / bios info / and anything else that might be userful, had a list but not sure where I saved it to. I randomly making up a quick name when forgetting to save and my workstation is asking me to force shut down lol.









Any suggestions?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Any suggestions?


add me to the owners list











with any luck it will be here by friday lol


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> add me to the owners list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with any luck it will be here by friday lol


Lol you were added more than a week ago with your previous pre order









They count remember









Grats btw is it finally shipping?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Lol you were added more than a week ago with your previous pre order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They count remember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grats btw is it finally shipping?


oh cool lol







it should be shipping today, but knowing newegg it wont ship for a week and itll sit in packaging forever.


----------



## maxxx.ph

Hey szeged, glad you're getting your R4BE soon. Will finally have the chance to try the gpu I got from you on the R4BE. Returning home very soon.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxxx.ph*
> 
> Hey szeged, glad you're getting your R4BE soon. Will finally have the chance to try the gpu I got from you on the R4BE. Returning home very soon.


WOO







its been so long lol.


----------



## skupples

Thats exactly what it is Luna. Server blower.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thats exactly what it is Luna. Server blower.


sounds....dirty.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thats exactly what it is Luna. Server blower.


What's the noise on that thing? Sim to a delta or quiet?


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have faith! You can get one of these amazing motherboards too! Just gotta camp all sources. I'm glad I didn't end up like Jimmy Wild. He canceled his NCiX pre-order out of rage just a few hours before we all got our shipping #'s, then jumped on newegg pre-order & got delayed... Wonder if he ever got his board.


Nope, I don't have a board. I got a preorder in at Newegg a couple weeks ago. The day I cancelled my NCIX order. No updates from them yet. Hopefully soon.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Nope, I don't have a board. I got a preorder in at Newegg a couple weeks ago. The day I cancelled my NCIX order. No updates from them yet. Hopefully soon.


today friend, today is the day!


----------



## VertKiller

I just pulled the trigger on memory.

G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-19200CL10Q-32GBZHD

All I have left to get is cpu which I'll pickup when my memory arrives. Cooling.

Still would like to know if I can check if all 8 dimm slots work when I don't have 8 sticks.


----------



## skupples

it can be loud as hell but it has PWM so it should be all good I'll probably be running off the CPU headerand hopefully I don't have to cut a hole in the back panel of my 900 E but if I do I'll make it look good enter enter text to speech don't text and drive


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it can be loud as hell but it has PWM so it should be all good I'll probably be running off the CPU headerand hopefully I don't have to cut a hole in the back panel of my 900 E but if I do I'll make it look good *enter enter text to speech don't text and drive*


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it can be loud as hell but it has PWM so it should be all good I'll probably be running off the CPU headerand hopefully I don't have to cut a hole in the back panel of my 900 E but if I do I'll make it look good enter enter text to speech don't text and drive


Which Dynatron model did you end up getting, and does it match up to the Asus X-socket thing for 1366?

Darlene


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> today friend, today is the day!


Hope so, I'm ready for this to be over. I'm super scared now about Newegg though. About the potential of a damaged board. I've had all my parts for so long, all well past the 30 day limit. So to potentially have a bad board and a return fight with Newegg I don't know what to do. If I knew Amazon would get soon I might go with them. *shrug*


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Hope so, I'm ready for this to be over. I'm super scared now about Newegg though. About the potential of a damaged board. I've had all my parts for so long, all well past the 30 day limit. So to potentially have a bad board and a return fight with Newegg I don't know what to do. If I knew Amazon would get soon I might go with them. *shrug*


im just hoping we all get our shipment out today lol, this has been going on wayyyyy too long


----------



## skupples

Model #
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Which Dynatron model did you end up getting, and does it match up to the Asus X-socket thing for 1366?
> 
> Darlene


model #g199 for 1366. The. LGA 2011 models dont fit on top or bottom


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im just hoping we all get our shipment out today lol, this has been going on wayyyyy too long


Yup, I know it. I just want everyone to get their boards so we can all talk about how awesome they are. Instead of talk about trying to order them lol.









That and I want to rebuild my current game machine. It's running so slow right now. Need new drives in it badly. But want the new build done before I rebuild my current PC. So come on Newegg! Lets get some boards shipping today! Of course I'm super pissed that I didn't do the rush ordering now. So please shipping gods, if you're listening, please ship today or tomorrow.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Yup, I know it. I just want everyone to get their boards so we can all talk about how awesome they are. Instead of talk about trying to order them lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That and I want to rebuild my current game machine. It's running so slow right now. Need new drives in it badly. But want the new build done before I rebuild my current PC. So come on Newegg! Lets get some boards shipping today! Of course I'm super pissed that I didn't do the rush ordering now. So please shipping gods, if you're listening, please ship today or tomorrow.


^ ^ ^ ^ ^ this indeed


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> They better be sealed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> if mine isnt its going straight back lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> well, if mine has any malfunctions at all or even looks like its been previously used, newegg better pull up a seat, use the restroom whatever they have to do because were going to be having a very, very long discussion about it


When I pulled my mobo out of the box one of the 4 pin fan headers were bent to the point that I couldn't get the board out. Pics in my build log in my sig, have a look. I also second everyone else who said that there was no fatory seal. It has still worked flawlessly. I chalked the bent header up to an overzealous packer or who ever my QC guy was (if Asus really does check every board with a cpu like JJ claims).


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

..................................all the white dye is worn completely off of my F5 button..


----------



## skupples

WOOOOHHHOOOOOOOOOOOO IT FITS. Time to start buildzoring.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> WOOOOHHHOOOOOOOOOOOO IT FITS. Time to start buildzoring.


How about some pics of the process !


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How about some pics of the process !


I'll be putting together a guide.







Now that some of us have thoroughly thought it through, it's rather simple.


----------



## skupples

MY work space is an utter disaster right now, so I have to spend some time cleaning up or I will blow my brains out from the mess trying to build around it. My desk is covered in boxes, my floor, more boxes. My 6 foot card table is covered in boxes & parts... So yeah... TIME FOR SOME CLEANSING!


----------



## JimmyWild

I'm using the island in our kitchen and the kitchen table to build. Luckily my roommate (the home owner) isn't around much lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, I'd be pretty embarrassed to post pics of my living room a.k.a workshop right now.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, I'd be pretty embarrassed to post pics of my living room a.k.a workshop right now.


MOAR TRAINS


----------



## kpoeticg

Lolllll

It's actually the neatest its been in a while, but i desperately need to buy some of those plastic cabinets with a bunch of little drawers in them. I have way more tools and components laying around than i have places to put them


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, I'd be pretty embarrassed to post pics of my living room a.k.a workshop right now.


I finished building my computer within 8 hours of receiving my board. However, I still had tons of boxes and packaging sitting around for a week and a half afterwards. I finally cleaned the place out and filled the condo recycling dumpsters to the brim with packaging.


----------



## FiveEYZ

The board is now shipping to me here in Sweden, I should have it by Friday!









ETA is still 12th December, xD costumer support was surprised they even got them (like randomly delivered to the store)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveEYZ*
> 
> The board is now shipping to me here in Sweden, I should have it by Friday!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ETA is still 12th December, xD costumer support was surprised they even got them (like randomly delivered to the store)




I'm pretty sure that's Kenny G in the background....


----------



## JimmyWild

Has anyone heard from Newegg today? Amazon will not commit to an ETA right now. I just got off chat with them.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Has anyone heard from Newegg today? Amazon will not commit to an ETA right now. I just got off chat with them.


We just got back from having lunch together with them and Asus ~


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> I finished building my computer within 8 hours of receiving my board. However, I still had tons of boxes and packaging sitting around for a week and a half afterwards. I finally cleaned the place out and filled the condo recycling dumpsters to the brim with packaging.


Recycling what is that and why are you doing it?? never recycle anything. that is bad...


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> We just got back from having lunch together with them and Asus ~


Oh cool, did you tell them to ship my mobo?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Lol you were added more than a week ago with your previous pre order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They count remember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grats btw is it finally shipping?


Can you add me, I preordered from Newegg last night. Thanks you!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Can you add me, I preordered from Newegg last night. Thanks you!


Oddly I thought I had you from a previous pre order, either way added and grats!


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Can you add me, I preordered from Newegg last night. Thanks you!


so you ordered last night around___________pm(fill in the blank please!!)and smashed the life outta your F5 key til the cows came home and P O O F

..............ya gots da magickal pree orderdom

sigh lol:thumb: grats anyhew


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> so you ordered last night around___________pm(fill in the blank please!!)and smashed the life outta your F5 key til the cows came home and P O O F
> 
> ..............ya gots da magickal pree orderdom
> 
> sigh lol:thumb: grats anyhew


Last night around 5pm central time US, it was weird. I was on the newegg page just reading reviews, then Szeged posted something about being the first to preorder from the second batch, so I refreshed the page and the option to preorder was there. I grabbed my debit card and immediately placed the order lol.

Later that night the preorder option was gone. I just hope they weren't returned boards. Lol


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Oddly I thought I had you from a previous pre order, either way added and grats!


Thanks!!


----------



## JimmyWild

Just got off the phone with Newegg. No real update, just that they were expecting a shipment yesterday. So looks like I'm out of luck this week again. Maybe next week. Then next week I can say it again.


----------



## skupples

Found some corrosion on two of the copper rad plugs. Ran water tests, passed with flying colors on all tests. PH alk Chloe.









Really don't feel like tearing the blocks down. Think IMA just ignore it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Just got off the phone with Newegg. No real update, just that they were expecting a shipment yesterday. So looks like I'm out of luck this week again. Maybe next week. Then next week I can say it again.


ughh damn newegg, they better get some in this week or im taking my money somewhere else.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ughh damn newegg, they better get some in this week or im taking my money somewhere else.


Another reason why I didn't bother with overnight shipping.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Another reason why I didn't bother with overnight shipping.


calling them up now, either im getting a refund for shipping or getting a full refund lol.


----------



## jamiee

*Other than the 2nd SSD (which arrives tomorrow) - SHE'S DONE!*

 
 

Seems a little empty without a second GTX 780 Ti in there though....
Might have to fix that a bit later on


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> *Other than the 2nd SSD (which arrives tomorrow) - SHE'S DONE!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems a little empty without a second GTX 780 Ti in there though....
> Might have to fix that a bit later on


That looks awesome. Nice and tidy. My suggestion is spray paint the rings black, to really rock that black theme!


----------



## szeged

OH MY GKAJSDFGASDGKJDASKJGJKSDGKJSDKJFKJTOMMTGIANTJUKDSAJFGKS


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> calling them up now, either im getting a refund for shipping or getting a full refund lol.


Let us know if they say when they will be shipping.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im just hoping we all get our shipment out today lol, this has been going on wayyyyy too long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, I know it. I just want everyone to get their boards so we can all talk about how awesome they are. Instead of talk about trying to order them lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That and I want to rebuild my current game machine. It's running so slow right now. Need new drives in it badly. But want the new build done before I rebuild my current PC. So come on Newegg! Lets get some boards shipping today! Of course I'm super pissed that I didn't do the rush ordering now. So please shipping gods, if you're listening, please ship today or tomorrow.
Click to expand...

.........................................

really ... i have shipped in full blow blizzards before and never got this makes me wonder if the truck got hit by something


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Let us know if they say when they will be shipping.


the guy wouldnt give me a real answer he just kept reciting his copy/paste answers " at this time blah blah im stupid we dont have an ETA available please keep refreshing the page until they come in stock or use the auto notify button blah blah i eat glue newegg employees have the brain power of a walnut blah blah"

so i , in very colorful wording, told him in which area of his body i would like him to have sexual relations with himself and hung up.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the guy wouldnt give me a real answer he just kept reciting his copy/paste answers " at this time blah blah im stupid we dont have an ETA available please keep refreshing the page until they come in stock or use the auto notify button blah blah i eat glue newegg employees have the brain power of a walnut blah blah"
> 
> *so i , in very colorful wording, told him in which area of his body i would like him to have sexual relations with himself and hung up*.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That looks awesome. Nice and tidy. My suggestion is spray paint the rings black, to really rock that black theme!


The thought had crossed my mind early on, but I kinda like the bit of red in there (it's stealth, but not too stealth....). You don't see the top fans on the H100i when the side panel is on, so it tones down the red just a bit compared to what you seen in those photo's - the smoke coloured side window also helps further in that regard.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> OH MY GKAJSDFGASDGKJDASKJGJKSDGKJSDKJFKJTOMMTGIANTJUKDSAJFGKS


That coincides with NCIX's expected shipment receive date no?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> That coincides with NCIX's expected shipment receive date no?


yeah, even though they said it would be arriving today =\ oh well, another day to wait until we get stuck with 10 days in the packaging phase, then a two week christmas break, then maybe we can get newegg to ship them out.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah, even though they said it would be arriving today =\ oh well, another day to wait until we get stuck with 10 days in the packaging phase, then a two week christmas break, then maybe we can get newegg to ship them out.


I was gonna try and sell my current motherboard, maybe I should just wait for a shipping confirmation notice.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I was gonna try and sell my current motherboard, maybe I should just wait for a shipping confirmation notice.


thats what im gonna be doing with the haswell system most likely







but waiting till i get the new stuff in lol.

Also got two monsta 480 rads inc, time to redo my loop again lol.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thats what im gonna be doing with the haswell system most likely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but waiting till i get the new stuff in lol.
> 
> Also got two monsta 480 rads inc, time to redo my loop again lol.


You're gonna love those monsta rads. I'm gonna see what temps I get with the fans off.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> You're gonna love those monsta rads. I'm gonna see what temps I get with the fans off.


was thinking about just getting one of these - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20515/ex-wat-257/Aquacomputer_Airplex_GIGANT_3360_External_Radiator_-_Aluminum_Fins_33303.html?tl=g30c95s667

and sticking it outside and running some tube to it, since winter is upon us, which means ambient temps are finally under 9999999 in florida


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> was thinking about just getting one of these - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20515/ex-wat-257/Aquacomputer_Airplex_GIGANT_3360_External_Radiator_-_Aluminum_Fins_33303.html?tl=g30c95s667
> 
> and sticking it outside and running some tube to it, since winter is upon us, which means ambient temps are finally under 9999999 in florida


That be great for Chicago winters, but anti freeze will be required. If I didn't change my gear that often, I might give it a try. PC tech evolves so fast, that by next summer, I might wanna upgrade. Reason I went with high end gear this time was to avoid upgrading for a few years.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That be great for Chicago winters, but anti freeze will be required. If I didn't change my gear that often, I might give it a try. PC tech evolves so fast, that by next summer, I might wanna upgrade. Reason I went with high end gear this time was to avoid upgrading for a few years.


its a mix up between this and trying to salvage a rad from my cousins body repair shop and seeing how that does lol







only bad thing is having to move it indoors in florida's summer lol. Got a 6' shop fan i can point at it though lol, talk about performance/noise ratio lol.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> its a mix up between this and trying to salvage a rad from my cousins body repair shop and seeing how that does lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only bad thing is having to move it indoors in florida's summer lol. Got a 6' shop fan i can point at it though lol, talk about performance/noise ratio lol.


lol, I wanna add more rads, but don't want any more fans lol. At least no more SP120 fans The loudness is starting to bother me now. Sometimes I leave my 900D on to download huge files and is terrible. I play a lot of games, and don't really bother me since I use a headset. Maybe I should invest in better fans.

Yep, thats my next upgrade: QUIET FANS


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> lol, I wanna add more rads, but don't want any more fans lol. At least no more SP120 fans The loudness is starting to bother me now. Sometimes I leave my 900D on to download huge files and is terrible. I play a lot of games, and don't really bother me since I use a headset. Maybe I should invest in better fans.
> 
> Yep, thats my next upgrade: QUIET FANS


noise blocker e-loops 1900 fans my friend, expensive but amazing









im actually in the process of replacing my corsair fans in my 900D with gt ap-15s atm lol. the quiet edition corsair fans arent going to cut it on monstas lol.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> noise blocker e-loops 1900 fans my friend, expensive but amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im actually in the process of replacing my corsair fans in my 900D with gt ap-15s atm lol. the quiet edition corsair fans arent going to cut it on monstas lol.


I'll check them out in a bit. I also need a fan controller. if I sell my mobo, all the funds will go towards that.

for monstas, this is all you need:


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'll check them out in a bit. I also need a fan controller. if I sell my mobo, all the funds will go towards that.
> 
> for monstas, this is all you need:


hahahaha lmao







i actually have one of those somewhere from wild adventures themepark up in georgia


----------



## skupples

<<< This guy - kid in a candy shop. Hippy in a dispensary, grandmother @ the pharmacy.

The Dynatron is defining @ 100%, but extremely quiet 50-70%


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> <<< This guy - kid in a candy shop. Hippy in a dispensary, grandmother @ the pharmacy.
> 
> The Dynatron is defining @ 100%, but extremely quiet 50-70%


Very Cool!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hahahaha lmao
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i actually have one of those somewhere from wild adventures themepark up in georgia


Dude, those noise blocker fans are sick.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Dude, those noise blocker fans are sick.


they also perform really well

http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> they also perform really well
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/


I loooove my gentle typhoons. This build will have 20 of them. Corsair fans rape my ears.

I bought more than I needed I think, since I won't be running push/pull on the bottom rad, & I forgot that I was salvaging 10 from my Storm Trooper.


----------



## Redshift 91

Some dude on the Geforce forums called me cheap (







) because I argued that no one should be forced to upgrade from widows 7 to 8 to play games. Every other guy there's a troll.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> <<< This guy - kid in a candy shop. Hippy in a dispensary, grandmother @ the pharmacy.
> 
> The Dynatron is defining @ 100%, but extremely quiet 50-70%


i thought that was for the back !!!!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i thought that was for the back !!!!!












don't worry! It is! Plopping it on was much easier than zip tying the H80 to the mobo. It also allowed me to test it out, The green wire was extremely crimped, so I was worried it may not function. Everything seems good to go.. You know, I don't remember the Titan blowers clicking when they power up, it's really annoying.

I'm done building for the night. Gotta take the dremel to the 900D tomorrow so that I can fit the 360 in the front. Dremel>spending 110$ on a low profile rad @ this point. Also, this Corsair PSU has THE SHORTEST cables I have ever seen. I'm going to have to buy extensions.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> they also perform really well
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/


Those gentle typhons are pretty quiet. Decisions, decisions.....


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> don't worry! It is! Plopping it on was much easier than zip tying the H80 to the mobo. It also allowed me to test it out, The green wire was extremely crimped, so I was worried it may not function. Everything seems good to go.. You know, I don't remember the Titan blowers clicking when they power up, it's really annoying.
> 
> I'm done building for the night. Gotta take the dremel to the 900D tomorrow so that I can fit the 360 in the front. Dremel>spending 110$ on a low profile rad @ this point. Also, this Corsair PSU has THE SHORTEST cables I have ever seen. I'm going to have to buy extensions.


Just extend the wires yourself. That's if you have a solder gun, wire and heat shrink.


----------



## Mongo

Hey I got the RIVBE and a 4930k with some 2400 ram.
I got into the bios to overclock and it looks like alien tech to me I came from a 2600k and don't know what half the stuff in this bios does.

Could someone point me to a place where I can find out, Heck I'm not even sure how to raise the CPU Ratio because the bios list it as CPU Ratio Max.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mongo*
> 
> Hey I got the RIVBE and a 4930k with some 2400 ram.
> I got into the bios to overclock and it looks like alien tech to me I came from a 2600k and don't know what half the stuff in this bios does.
> 
> Could someone point me to a place where I can find out, Heck I'm not even sure how to raise the CPU Ratio because the bios list it as CPU Ratio Max.


I havnt received my board yet, but read that the bios is pretty similar to the original RIVE. I saw your post on the RIVEBE ANNOUNCEMENT thread, and you were sent here, my suggestion will be to check out the original RIVE thread and get familiar with the bios.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> noise blocker e-loops 1900 fans my friend, expensive but amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im actually in the process of replacing my corsair fans in my 900D with gt ap-15s atm lol. the quiet edition corsair fans arent going to cut it on monstas lol.


I love the eLoops, but they don't have a 140mm variant out yet and I didn't want to have mix-matched fans in my build, so I went with Corsair for the time being.
If NB releases a 140mm eLoop, I will be re-evaluating this for sure!
Swapping out fans = NO BIG DEAL


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> I love the eLoops, but they don't have a 140mm variant out yet and I didn't want to have mix-matched fans in my build, so I went with Corsair for the time being.
> If NB releases a 140mm eLoop, I will be re-evaluating this for sure!
> Swapping out fans = NO BIG DEAL


lol







do yours have any problems with noise when used in a pull configuration?


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do yours have any problems with noise when used in a pull configuration?


..... You know, it just occurred to me that I'm a total dumb-ass!
The Carbide Air 540 fully supports 120mm fans, so why the heck didn't I go that route









Somehow I got fixated on replacing the stock 140mm fans and didn't even consider going the other direction.
..... Oh well, I'll chalk that up to a potential future modification (depending on how badly the Corsair's annoy me)









I'm running a pair of SP120's in "pull" on a H100 in my other system.
I don't have any particular noise problems with them. They are a touch louder than I'd like, but I have them trimmed back a bit to keep the noise to a minimum.
The most annoying fan in that build is actually the one in the AX1200 PSU. I've had a few of these units over the years and they all have had this annoying fan whine to them.


----------



## kpoeticg

You can always switch the fan in the PSU. It's not a very complicated mod to do.
Any case that supports 140's should support 120's too =P


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Those gentle typhons are pretty quiet. Decisions, decisions.....


So people really like the gentle's over the quiet Corsairs?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> So people really like the gentle's over the quiet Corsairs?


the GT's move more air and are just as quiet lol.


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the GT's move more air and are just as quiet lol.


Nice good to know, so glad I finally joined the forum.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> So people really like the gentle's over the quiet Corsairs?


rven the high speed typhoons are quieter than corsairs quiet edition. Also I can't stand the type of noise corsair fans produce. The thpoon sound is a much lower frequency


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> rven the high speed typhoons are quieter than corsairs quiet edition. Also I can't stand the type of noise corsair fans produce. The thpoon sound is a much lower frequency


Yea I just listened to the noise comparisons from a few pages back and the difference is definitely there.

So ugly though, looks like Ill be looking up about painting them.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> Yea I just listened to the noise comparisons from a few pages back and the difference is definitely there.
> 
> So ugly though, looks like Ill be looking up about painting them.


Vinyl dye. Can get it at any auto shop


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Thanks for the info, will look it up.

I am going to learn so much with this build.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> noise blocker e-loops 1900 fans my friend, expensive but amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im actually in the process of replacing my corsair fans in my 900D with gt ap-15s atm lol. the quiet edition corsair fans arent going to cut it on monstas lol.


So NB's or GT's then lol, I'm still debating on them and Cougars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Those gentle typhons are pretty quiet. Decisions, decisions.....


This ^^^^^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> rven the high speed typhoons are quieter than corsairs quiet edition. Also I can't stand the type of noise corsair fans produce. The thpoon sound is a much lower frequency


Didn't know that, another thing to take into consideration, though aren't there any fans that are good at AF as well as SP? I hear GT's suck @ AF but rock @ SP.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So NB's or GT's then lol, I'm still debating on them and Cougars
> This ^^^^^
> Didn't know that, another thing to take into consideration, though aren't there any fans that are good at AF as well as SP? I hear GT's suck @ AF but rock @ SP.


i think a any good rad fan should be considered for a basic intake fan as well, you really only need tons of AF if you are doing an all air set up imo.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i think a any good rad fan should be considered for a basic intake fan as well, you really only need tons of AF if you are doing an all air set up imo.


I was curious about using Static for push, and AF for pull to increase/add airflow within the case.

Pull - - - - Push
<< *C* || *C*<<
AF - - - - - - SP


----------



## szeged

maybe check out some xspc xinruilian 120mm fans, theyre designed for radiators but ive used them to push lots of air around my titans when i was using them at 1.35v since the back of the pcb lets off a lot of heat.

Good static pressure, good air flow, relatively quiet, not as quiet as the typhoons, but those are hard to beat









and the best part? theyre $6.95 compared to "premium" fans going for $15+ each. Oh and they come pre sleeved with 45cm cables.

i actually have some here that im going to be using until i sleeve my typhoons -






cat hair in the background optional


----------



## szeged

newegg just put my board in "packaging" phase

time to play the waiting game.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> newegg just put my board in "packaging" phase
> 
> time to play the waiting game.


what's that mean? 'we got your board and we're gonna ship it to you as soon as our guy gets back from the cellophane aisle at the dollar general next door'?

I am entertaining serious second thoughts and third thoughts about newegg overall operational functionality and customer (dis)satisfaction since trying to get a hold of one of these from day one








grats anyhew and here's hoping it beats the spring thaw to your humble abode.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> what's that mean? 'we got your board and we're gonna ship it to you as soon as our guy gets back from the cellophane aisle at the dollar general next door'?
> 
> I am entertaining serious second thoughts and third thoughts about newegg overall operational functionality and customer (dis)satisfaction since trying to get a hold of one of these from day one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> grats anyhew and here's hoping it beats the spring thaw to your humble abode.


it means the employees are gonna go to the warehouse and play grab ass for the next 2 days then finally remember to pack up my board lol.


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> newegg just put my board in "packaging" phase
> 
> time to play the waiting game.


Same here. I forgot to do rush processing to go with my overnight shipping. So it probably wont ship till next Tues or Wed. My buddy ordered a GPU on Mon morning, hasn't shipped yet.

EDIT: And i'm not even pissed about the delay in and of itself. Only pissed cause I have free time to build this week, this weekend, and early next week. After that we're remodeling the kitchen. So I lose my build location and time.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

lol heard that sad but true apparently


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Same here. I forgot to do rush processing to go with my overnight shipping. So it probably wont ship till next Tues or Wed. My buddy ordered a GPU on Mon morning, hasn't shipped yet.
> 
> EDIT: And i'm not even pissed about the delay in and of itself. Only pissed cause I have free time to build this week, this weekend, and early next week. After that we're remodeling the kitchen. So I lose my build location and time.


my 4930k is being delayed from amazon due to the storms going on, and my alphacool monsta 480s wont get here till monday/tuesday maybe wednesday, but....I WANT IT NOW!!!! I WANT IT NOW I WANT IT NOW I WANT ITTTTTTTTTTTT

who are we? pc enthusiasts!
what do we want? our grear!
when do we want it? NOW!

who are we? newegg
what do we want? to make your life miserable
when do we want it? all the time.


----------



## szeged

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132053

IN STOCK ORDER NOW BEFORE ITS GONE UNTIL 2014!


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132053
> 
> IN STOCK ORDER NOW BEFORE ITS GONE UNTIL 2014!


Yes, I was just ordering some USB 3 cables and notices that it is in stock. Quantity limit of 2 per order. Get it now!!


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132053
> 
> IN STOCK ORDER NOW BEFORE ITS GONE UNTIL 2014!


Thank you got mine ordered


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Thank you got mine ordered


ouch that tax, mine was cheaper with same day delivery :x lol


----------



## doctakedooty

Yea sadly newegg is in the same state as me actually about a hour and a half away. So 9.75% sales tax rapes me so thats why I use amazon but in this case I had no choice.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Yea sadly newegg is in the same state as me actually about a hour and a half away. So 9.75% sales tax rapes me so thats why I use amazon but in this case I had no choice.


man that sucks lol, the only place i get hit with taxes from is tigerdirect, and i never use them because amazon has me covered usually lol.


----------



## doctakedooty

Let me just say this though if I disappear from ocn for a few days be worried because my wife has probably killed me when she realizes I ordered it so hopefully I can sell my rive with the ek block quickly because I promised after I ordered another ti and 3 monitors for surround I was done for a few months


----------



## skupples

Grats everyone!

Sigh, updating to win SP1. Time to go do some dremmeling on this 900D


----------



## Genjimaru

Woot! Got mine as well!


----------



## doctakedooty

So is the BE really helping the Ivy Bridge E overclocks?


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Just gotout of meeting....and its out of stock again


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55




----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So is the BE really helping the Ivy Bridge E overclocks?


I haven't seen any evidence of this yet. The only thing that will help IVY-E is more and more revisions.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132053
> 
> IN STOCK ORDER NOW BEFORE ITS GONE UNTIL 2014!




Ordered! Thank You Again Sir! Much Appreciated Heads-up!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> it means the employees are gonna go to the warehouse and play grab ass for the next 2 days then finally remember to pack up my board lol.


..............so I now begrudgingly muster with the Packaging Clan who remain in the eternal mercy(less)hands of Newegg shipping talent


----------



## skupples

So, I just noticed that the 3rd & 4th slots (the 8x slots I guess) are not fully pinned. Never noticed this before. Pulled out two older (1155) motherboards & the slots have pins all the way down them. This is most curious. This means only half the pins on the GPU have contact...


----------



## doctakedooty

So cancelling my order with newegg so I can save taxes amazon now has the RIVE BE I can wait till they have them in stock.

@skupples Thank you i think I am going to sell the 4930K and go back to a 3930K and I like your sig.
"The first thing I think when I look @ your system is that you need to water block your ram." I don't need it lol I want it for the looks and to help restrict my flow lol


----------



## yttocstfarc

Back in stock as of right now.......now is the time I wish I had a credit card again.......I want this build done I don't wanna wait till tax time. *stomps foot*


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So is the BE really helping the Ivy Bridge E overclocks?


While ago, I was saying it probably wont be too much, only RAM stuff would be noticeable. And I'm often right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> Just gotout of meeting....and its out of stock again



You can always buy this one... Spits tongue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So, I just noticed that the 3rd & 4th slots (the 8x slots I guess) are not fully pinned. Never noticed this before. Pulled out two older (1155) motherboards & the slots have pins all the way down them. This is most curious. This means only half the pins on the GPU have contact...


Have you missed these Images from a Chinese forum I posted few weeks ago? It was clearly visible on these, which is reason why I wrote it must have 16x battery 8x 1x 16x 1x 8x configuration.
There is no point in providing 16 pins when it would run at PCI-E 3.0 8x speeds at most.

I also enlarged image of MB just to have the same number of pixels as mm to calculate if my CPU cooler would interfere with a card with the fist slot, or if it would be impossible to put it here. The result of test was: No way.
Thus, I'd have only one available 16x PCI-E slot.


----------



## skupples

It just doesn't make sense really. Why did they cheep out like that? All my asus lga1155 boards are fully pinned.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It just doesn't make sense really. Why did they cheep out like that? All my asus lga1155 boards are fully pinned.


Perhaps it's a new trend. However they cheeped out by not providing two more heatpipes.

I have an Idea. Lets ask Raja on Asus boards, and perhaps it might be worthwhile even mailing Asus support with this question.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> newegg just put my board in "packaging" phase
> 
> time to play the waiting game.


They charged my card this morning and also put me in packaging phase. If I can have it by Friday of next week, I'll be a happy man.


----------



## jamiee

Just got the last 840 EVO installed...WOOT!
Guess all that's left to do is backup whatever I need from the old system and get the new one swapped into it's place.

I'm both a little giddy and a little nervous








(This build went waaay too easy... It can't be that easy can it?)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Perhaps it's a new trend. However they cheeped out by not providing two more heatpipes.
> 
> I have an Idea. Lets ask Raja on Asus boards, and perhaps it might be worthwhile even mailing Asus support with this question.


Feel free. Those heat pipes were Form>function.


----------



## broken pixel

Add me please. After my order was complete I got an email from newegg saying save 5% on your next entire order. I got the 2 yr replacment via newegg since ASUS RMAs are a nightmare of messed up replacments. My last rma took over a month because they kept sending me bad replacment boards. I got 2 290x GPUs yesterday benched them for a bit turned off my computer. Went out for a bit and when I came back to test out BF4 my board just powers on and powers off after a second. Scratch 2 RIVES in a year onto the hopfully hassle free BE.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Feel free. Those heat pipes were Form>function.


Actually from what I seen, these heatpipes were something like lifelines when something went wrong and left and top heatsinks were not enough.The temperature propagated down to that famous fan, which latest BIOS restricted to run only when chipset temperatures would rise above 70 C.

When you look at current BE, you can see the heatsink is bit hotter than heatsink on original RIVE.

At least this is the feeling I get from what I seen on forums posts and benchmark temperatures.


----------



## Redshift 91

I got confirmation from xspc on a black edition mobo block showing next week or a week after that. Nice to know there'll be some options. I may go ek if they have an acetal and no csq option


----------



## Arm3nian

There aren't any screws or standoffs in the accessories are there...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Actually from what I seen, these heatpipes were something like lifelines when something went wrong and left and top heatsinks were not enough.The temperature propagated down to that famous fan, which latest BIOS restricted to run only when chipset temperatures would rise above 70 C.
> 
> When you look at current BE, you can see the heatsink is bit hotter than heatsink on original RIVE.
> 
> At least this is the feeling I get from what I seen on forums posts and benchmark temperatures.


The middle (logo) heatsink on the Vanilla RIVE was cooling a PLX chip and the heatpipes were def needed. The PLX isn't there on the BE.



Dunno what those little W04/WCM things are, but def not a PLX
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I got confirmation from xspc on a black edition mobo block showing next week or a week after that. Nice to know there'll be some options. I may go ek if they have an acetal and no csq option


SWEET!!! I really didn't think anybody else would release one since it's kinda EOL chipset. I'm personally hoping for an EK Plexi/Copper Clean CSQ block but options are definitely nice


----------



## Redshift 91

The only screws come for mounting the oc panel


----------



## Arm3nian

Luckily I found a bag of standoffs and screws for the motherboard.

I've never installed a 2011 cpu, do you push the levers down together when locking the cpu in?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Luckily I found a bag of standoffs and screws for the motherboard.
> 
> I've never installed a 2011 cpu, do you push the levers down together when locking the cpu in?


Yeah I never seen standoffs and screws come with a motherboard. except for some boards that have stand offs in them for benching. they usually come with the case.

I pushed one of them down and the other one moved down also. then I locked both in place..


----------



## Redshift 91

Right lever, then left, with the pcie slots towards you, I think.

Edit, I was wrong, left then right, same orientation


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Luckily I found a bag of standoffs and screws for the motherboard.
> 
> I've never installed a 2011 cpu, do you push the levers down together when locking the cpu in?


Lifting one leaver allows the other to become free so you can lift it.
After inserting the CPU, you do the opposite with the leavers to lock them in place.

There's actually markings on the CPU retention plate that show you how to use the leavers for unlocking & locking the plate








(Just look for the lock & unlock symbols).

Here they are:


----------



## VertKiller

I drove to town today, nightmare after the storm. Picked up my new case. Should be a fun build.

Bottom cabinet 12"x20"x24"
Top cabinet 10"x12"x24"
Should be enough room to play in.











Also got notice that my ram is on it's way. Only ordered last night. Lots to play with for awhile till I can get my cpu next week or so and cooling parts.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Luckily I found a bag of standoffs and screws for the motherboard.
> 
> I've never installed a 2011 cpu, do you push the levers down together when locking the cpu in?


the CPU goes in upside down first of all. As in, text upside down. Then you push down the right hand bar, then the left hand bar. @ least this worked for me... I did try to socket it with the chip upside down(text facing up) didn't go over so well. Did some minor damage to the plastic positional thingamajigs, but it's working fine.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So is the BE really helping the Ivy Bridge E overclocks?


Depends what board you're coming from.

If you're coming from a board like mine, yes it will help a lot, but if you're coming from the Original RIVE, you will only see gains in memory oc.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> maybe check out some xspc xinruilian 120mm fans, theyre designed for radiators but ive used them to push lots of air around my titans when i was using them at 1.35v since the back of the pcb lets off a lot of heat.
> 
> Good static pressure, good air flow, relatively quiet, not as quiet as the typhoons, but those are hard to beat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the best part? theyre $6.95 compared to "premium" fans going for $15+ each. Oh and they come pre sleeved with 45cm cables.
> 
> i actually have some here that im going to be using until i sleeve my typhoons -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cat hair in the background optional


they are a lower powered/higher priced version of the ones sold @ swiftech ( they have a lower rpm cap ) and i love the ones swiftech sells ( xpsc rebrands them )

not super quiet @ full speed but quiet none the less
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> Just gotout of meeting....and its out of stock again


back in stock atm fyi

sigh... was supposed to be delivered.... today dang storm .... what happened to no matter what these packages are getting through


----------



## xvxvxv

I promise not to shave my chin and drinkers even get on the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition


----------



## kazenagi

Newegg Canada has 272 left in stock after I ordered mine


----------



## seross69

Yes it is back up for sale at newegg now limit 2


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> I promise not to shave my chin and drinkers even get on the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition


I guess they don't accept gold bars? I'm JK JK. NewEgg does not ship internationally unless you have a military IPO.


----------



## Arm3nian

The ek supremacy comes with plastic washers but I think the picture only shows 1155 using it, anyone knows if you use it for 2011?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> The ek supremacy comes with plastic washers but I think the picture only shows 1155 using it, anyone knows if you use it for 2011?


Plastic washers for the posts? Yes, they do. All of 5 in case you lose them. Assuming these are the washers you are talking about you want to use them on any board to help prevent shorting.


----------



## szeged

still in packaging after however many hours

WOOO GO NEWEGG YOU GUYS ARE LIVIN UP TO YOUR REP


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> still in packaging after however many hours
> 
> WOOO GO NEWEGG YOU GUYS ARE LIVIN UP TO YOUR REP


Did you pay the rush fee?


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why in gods name did you buy the 1500 watts
> 
> Its so mediocre that the price they want for it is one of the bigest rippoffs in histroy


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the 1500 evga psu, does the single rail mode really function, or is it a gimmack? I know it's over priced, but I wouldn't be here if that mattered.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Did you pay the rush fee?


yep


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yep


lame

Asus website is running like a slug, slower than 28k dialup days.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> lame


yeah its kind of annoying, im gonna call them up tomorrow if it hasnt shipped and be like " i want a refund on the one day shipping...and it better arrive by monday anyways, or im coming to you guys and showing your packaging team how to do it correctly."


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the 1500 evga psu, does the single rail mode really function, or is it a gimmack? I know it's over priced, but I wouldn't be here if that mattered.


Yes, you can enable it via the software or via the dip switches. Single rail is recomended for multi gpu set ups.


----------



## szeged

check out the evga power supplies information thread shilka put up, has everything you need to know about the psu


----------



## skupples

@RedShift 91

You should go with the newest LEPA revision, much much better PSU than the EVGA 1500W nex. The NEX is easily the most hated 1500W PSU's known to man.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> The ek supremacy comes with plastic washers but I think the picture only shows 1155 using it, anyone knows if you use it for 2011?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @RedShift 91
> 
> You should go with the newest LEPA revision, much much better PSU than the EVGA 1500W nex. The NEX is easily the most hated 1500W PSU's known to man.


Lepa is nice this is for sure and a good quality made PSU.. EVGA's look so nice and 7 yr warranty plus never had problems with mine yet and easy to RMA if I do and I do have a LEPA 1600 Waiting in the wings!!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Lepa is nice this is for sure and a good quality made PSU.. EVGA's look so nice and 7 yr warranty plus never had problems with mine yet and easy to RMA if I do and I do have a LEPA 1600 Waiting in the wings!!!


EVGA's customer service is pretty damn hard to beat. They cross shipped my new 1300W G2 over night, with pre-payed return shipping & a free T-Shirt. Of course, this was a recall replacement, so they don't always go all out like that, but yeah. They normally do 3 day shipping, with cross shipments.


----------



## xvxvxv

Now I shaved my chin and drinkers .. To spend the night with my wife enthusiastic

I'm going to duty and to the fullest


----------



## Mega Man

i will concede that, but... i dunno i cant bring myself to buy anything evga...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i will concede that, but... i dunno i cant bring myself to buy anything evga...


Because of the failed motherboard's? Or because of your Red bias'?

They are the only company I will buy Nvidia products from.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> 
> 
> Now I shaved my chin and drinkers .. To spend the night with my wife enthusiastic
> 
> I'm going to duty and to the fullest


hahaha


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> 
> 
> Now I shaved my chin and drinkers .. To spend the night with my wife enthusiastic
> 
> I'm going to duty and to the fullest


Awesome


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I shaved my chin and drinkers .. To spend the night with my wife enthusiastic
> 
> I'm going to duty and to the fullest


how did you get them to ship to Saudi Arabia?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i will concede that, but... i dunno i cant bring myself to buy anything evga...
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the failed motherboard's? Or because of your Red bias'?
> 
> They are the only company I will buy Nvidia products from.
Click to expand...

i bought 1 nvidia .... never went back... tbh it was the blower that brought me back i loved/love ( yes i still have it ) my ATIxt850PE it looks just sexay !

really idk why i wont buy them, i hear nothing but good about them.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i bought 1 nvidia .... never went back... tbh it was the blower that brought me back i loved/love ( yes i still have it ) my ATIxt850PE it looks just sexay !
> 
> really idk why i wont buy them, i hear nothing but good about them.


Just don't buy their motherboards (besides x58's) & everything should be golden. They make one hell of a 1000W & 1300W PSU these days. Everything else is pretty damned mediocre though. the small PSU's, & the 1500W nex both get terrible reviews. EVGA Dark x79 mobo is a step in the right direction, but is still extremely buggy on a software level, though I guess that's better than the fatal hardware problems on the last iteration of x79 boards.

Obvious reference is reference, so the choice should be made on the quality of customer service. This is where EVGA is #1 many many years in a row.


----------



## szeged

the new EVGA Z87 Classified mobo is actually really really good







i grabbed one on release and have been playing with it, i actually really like their bios, a couple of tiny bugs, but nothing that affects anything i use 24/7 other than that though the mobo is one of the best ive worked with.

its like their x58 team came back and kicked the x79 team in the face and said WHAT THE HELL DID YOU DOOOOOOOOOO


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Because of the failed motherboard's? Or because of your Red bias'?
> 
> They are the only company I will buy Nvidia products from.


I agree, they are top line, no questions asked service. I had a fan making some noise on one of my GTX 480's sometime back and they replaced both of them, even though only one was making noise, with a pair of new GTX 670's which are still running.


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> They are the only company I will buy Nvidia products from.


Same here, all my GPUs have been EVGA for years.

You would recommend the 1300 G2 then?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> I agree, they are top line, no questions asked service. I had a fan making some noise on one of my GTX 480's sometime back and they replaced both of them, even though only one was making noise, with a pair of new GTX 670's which are still running.


ohhhh, I have 2x 480's sitting around, I wonder if I could get them to take them back!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Same here, all my GPUs have been EVGA for years.
> 
> You would recommend the 1300 G2 then?


Yessir! It is a solid, and extremely quiet unit. I'm convinced the reviewers use cellphone grade digital sound meter's to rate these things. Some reviews show them @ like 30+Db, iv'e yet to hear it @ all. I have mine running right next to my head right now, out side of the case & it's silent. Even when I had 1200+ watts running through it I could never hear it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Same here, all my GPUs have been EVGA for years.
> 
> You would recommend the 1300 G2 then?


i have three evga 1000w g2s and two 1300w g2s, their psu's are amazing


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i have three evga 1000w g2s and two 1300w g2s, their psu's are amazing


the 1300 must be good, it's sold out of everywhere I shop lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> the 1300 must be good, it's sold out of everywhere I shop lol.


Not really surprised, that thing has been blowing off the shelves as of recent. Specially since getting the Shilka seal of approval here on OCN. I swear I see them in 3/4 of the builds I look @ now.


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not really surprised, that thing has been blowing off the shelves as of recent. Specially since getting the Shilka seal of approval here on OCN. I swear I see them in 3/4 of the builds I look @ now.


Well what's one more piece to wait for? Guess I'll start clicking the auto-notify buttons all over lol.


----------



## xvxvxv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> how did you get them to ship to Saudi Arabia?


I have a mailbox in New York belted Fund in Saudi Arabia .. With Aramex

Aramex is sending to Saudi Arabia when it arrives in New York for my Automatically

nice move









Aramex like DHL like UPS


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Well what's one more piece to wait for? Guess I'll start clicking the auto-notify buttons all over lol.


oooof. The price has gone up too! I payed 189.99 for mine a few months after release. They must really be gaining traction to be @ 229.99+sold out everywhere.

My only critique is that the finish comes off rather easily.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> oooof. The price has gone up too! I payed 189.99 for mine a few months after release. They must really be gaining traction to be @ 229.99+sold out everywhere.


it was 219.99 the day i linked you that amazon sale, they were going for $30 off for some reason lol, havent seen a good sale on them since then =\


----------



## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I got confirmation from xspc on a black edition mobo block showing next week or a week after that. Nice to know there'll be some options. I may go ek if they have an acetal and no csq option


Facebook, Website, email?


----------



## szeged

ill be waiting on the EK block for it, i would rather not have XSPC logos all over my board


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> oooof. The price has gone up too! I payed 189.99 for mine a few months after release. They must really be gaining traction to be @ 229.99+sold out everywhere.
> 
> My only critique is that the finish comes off rather easily.


Best Buy has it for $195, sold out of course though. At this point I'm not above paying a little extra for stuff. Really just wanting to get building!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> I have a mailbox in New York belted Fund in Saudi Arabia .. With Aramex
> 
> Aramex is sending to Saudi Arabia when it arrives in New York for my Automatically
> 
> nice move
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aramex like DHL like UPS




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ill be waiting on the EK block for it, i would rather not have XSPC logos all over my board


Yeah... I don't think i'm going to put the mobo blocks in with my gpu/cpu loop. Flow rates will be too damned low, & EK blocks fail hard @ low flow rates. I think i'm going to put them on a single 120x fat boy second loop. I swear this 3930k @ 3.4>3570k @ 4.8

whelp, I official did next to nothing on my rebuild today. Cut up the case, & the front panel to fit the cool-stream in & called it a day. Been sitting here on my ghetto bench & single monitor ever since.

"Bro, every nvidia gpu iv'e ever owned coil whines in my silent water rig that I have no proof of, & my only rig has an h100i & a blower"


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> the 1300 must be good, it's sold out of everywhere I shop lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Not really surprised, that thing has been blowing off the shelves as of recent. Specially since getting the Shilka seal of approval here on OCN. I swear I see them in 3/4 of the builds I look @ now.
Click to expand...

yea the g2s are great but the other one nex***g.... run away !


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea the g2s are great but the other one nex***g.... run away !


for sure, nex is an utter failure. They should remove it from the market. Has some of the cheapest internal hardware known to man.


----------



## Mega Man

ill just leave this here it made me LOL


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah... I don't think i'm going to put the mobo blocks in with my gpu/cpu loop. Flow rates will be too damned low, & EK blocks fail hard @ low flow rates. I think i'm going to put them on a single 120x fat boy second loop. I swear this 3930k @ 3.4>3570k @ 4.8


once i get mobo blocks in im gonna split it into dual loops, one for cpu/ram/mobo, one for gpus


----------



## zucciniknife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> for sure, nex is an utter failure. They should remove it from the market. Has some of the cheapest internal hardware known to man.


Really that bad?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> Really that bad?


LOL, not has bad as what Mega Man just linked. The NEX just isn't worth it for the money, might as well spend slightly more for the LEPA.


----------



## szeged

Contacting newegg about why my board is still in packaging

....you are number 135 in the queue, the average wait time is 59 minutes.....

shoot me now.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Contacting newegg about why my board is still in packaging
> 
> ....you are number 135 in the queue, the average wait time is 59 minutes.....
> 
> shoot me now.


Jingle Bells, Jingle Bells, JINGLE ALL THE WAY!!! Oh what fun it is to live in a consumerist society! HAAAY! Jingle Bells Jingle bells, jingle all the waaaaaaaay. It's now decemeber 7th, this means anything ordered after this date will show up after x-mas, unless you pay 100$ for shipping.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Contacting newegg about why my board is still in packaging
> 
> ....you are number 135 in the queue, the average wait time is 59 minutes.....
> 
> shoot me now.


Damn, I only waited 3 minutes earlier today.
I also called to see when they were gonna ship. I almost bought rushed processing, but the lady told me that did close to nothing. She said I'll just get an email as soon as it's on its way.

Apparently a big shipment came in, she said they were plenty of them on the warehouse.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Jingle Bells, Jingle Bells, JINGLE ALL THE WAY!!! Oh what fun it is to live in a consumerist society! HAAAY! Jingle Bells Jingle bells, jingle all the waaaaaaaay. It's now decemeber 7th, this means anything ordered after this date will show up after x-mas, unless you pay 100$ for shipping.


the wait time is going up rofl, at this rate the board will be here by the time i talk to someone.


----------



## zucciniknife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> LOL, not has bad as what Mega Man just linked. The NEX just isn't worth it for the money, might as well spend slightly more for the LEPA.


That makes me feel better(I bought two) of course when I got them they were around %30 off.


----------



## zucciniknife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the wait time is going up rofl, at this rate the board will be here by the time i talk to someone.


Lol, mine is also still in packaging. Kind of ridiculous, especially since I pre-ordered around the 22nd


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Well. they are in stock right now, so it's safe to say they will be shipping most orders by tomorrow.


----------



## saer

Alright guys.. Bad news























Finally had some time to fire up my board, was putting it through the normal stress tests to see if everything was working alright before I put everything under water. So I start up LinX and Furmark to stress the cpu and gpu, 2 seconds into LinX my whole system powers off as if someone pulled the power plug, then 1-2 seconds go by and it turns itself back on. Obviously something is wrong.. The only thing in the bios I changed was setting the ram to xmp profile of my mushkin 993997 sticks (2133), so I jump back in and set it back to auto and load the bios optimized defaults so that the ram is now running at 1600. Fire up LinX and Furmark again and the system runs fine for 8 hours straight overnight.

Now, is it normal for a system to shut off like that ? If the mobo didn't like the XMP profile settings ?

I was under the assumption that if the system didn't really agree with the XMP profile that I would just get an error in LinX or maybe a BSOD, not a full on system shut down and restart.

Gonna try to just set the timings manually and try again tomorrow, gotta go to bed right now.

Do you guys think I need to RMA the board/ram ?


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Alright guys.. Bad news
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally had some time to fire up my board, was putting it through the normal stress tests to see if everything was working alright before I put everything under water. So I start up LinX and Furmark to stress the cpu and gpu, 2 seconds into LinX my whole system powers off as if someone pulled the power plug, then 1-2 seconds go by and it turns itself back on. Obviously something is wrong.. The only thing in the bios I changed was setting the ram to xmp profile of my mushkin 993997 sticks (2133), so I jump back in and set it back to auto and load the bios optimized defaults so that the ram is now running at 1600. Fire up LinX and Furmark again and the system runs fine for 8 hours straight overnight.
> 
> Now, is it normal for a system to shut off like that ? If the mobo didn't like the XMP profile settings ?
> 
> I was under the assumption that if the system didn't really agree with the XMP profile that I would just get an error in LinX or maybe a BSOD, not a full on system shut down and restart.
> 
> Gonna try to just set the timings manually and try again tomorrow, gotta go to bed right now.
> 
> Do you guys think I need to RMA ?


What was the dram voltage, I had to raise mine to 1.575v on my viper3s to keep my 8x4GB @ 2133 stable.


----------



## MNModder

Ok so I was looking at this memory originally
G.SKILL Trident X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-2400C10Q-32GTX
for this board but then saw this memory
G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2800 (PC3 22400) Desktop Memory Model F3-2800C11Q-16GTXDG
and thought if I could down clock it to 2400 and tighten up the timings. Do you guys think this would work OK or should I stick to overclocking the 2400 set to reduce the timings. The reason Im going with 2400 is it seem to be from what ive seen people talking about to bee the best speed for this board and the 4930k? Or are timings not that important with these speed? Sorry haven't shopped for RAM in awhile. and this will be my first Intel build so not sure, also am planning to water cool this RAM
PLEASE HELP stuffs in the cart now
-MNModder


----------



## Redshift 91

Unless you plan on benching, you won't see a difference Since you've already got quad channel. The Trident x is solid memory with Samsung ICs. From what I've seen the ripjaws z are some of the best dimms for the money, but those trident x kits have been a hot topic all over the thread.

I think the 32GB @2400 is a fairly good deal based on the 4x8GB 2133 Ripjaws z being 320 dollars. That 2800 kit is way too expensive, if you ask me, 400 MHz isn't worth half the density and 75% more expensive. In the end, Just get whatever fits your budget or hat you think looks good, that'll make a bigger difference than clockspeed or timings.

Edited for poor grammar, spelling and other exhaustion induced issues.


----------



## MNModder

Cool thanks honestly I thought that was a 32GB kit thanks for catching that just saw the 2800Mhz 32GB kit is like $1200 no thanks
thanks again and for the speedy reply +rep








-MNModder


----------



## Redshift 91

No problem, that's what the whole site is about


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Contacting newegg about why my board is still in packaging
> 
> ....you are number 135 in the queue, the average wait time is 59 minutes.....
> 
> shoot me now.


Congratulation on only 59 minute waiting time. What have you expected to hear, it's in packaging and because of xmass customers should expect delays up to 3 days?


----------



## Slinky PC




----------



## jamiee

Got restless last night and decided to run the new system.
I'm speechless how well this build has gone. I'm either getting really good at this sort of thing, or lady luck is on my side









Booted first time no problem, went into the BIOS and made some changes, loaded Windows 8 pro and then 8.1 pro, ... now installing drivers and apps. *This is the way it's meant to be!
*

As for the corsair fan's..... No problem. I turned the AF140's down to 70% duty cycle because at full 12v they tended to drone a bit (kind of a pulsating pitch change type sound that was rather annoying). At 70% they are pretty quiet and don't drone.
The SP120's I believe are are running @ 100% as I have not loaded up Corsair Link yet. But to be honest they are quite tolerable even at full speed. My Drobo Mini with (2x) 30mm fans is pretty well just as loud.
I will still cut the 120's back a touch, but it's not as bad as I was expecting.
Oh, and noise wise I don't have any noticeable problem with the SP120's in "pull" config.


----------



## Arm3nian

Sigh, forgot to order a male to male extender so can't make a drain, evga 780ti backplate screws seem too short for the ek block, and gelid gc extreme is pretty much impossible to spread, CLP/ClU was 100x easier.

So frustrated because I've been without a desktop and had nothing to do since July...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Sigh, forgot to order a male to male extender so can't make a drain, evga 780ti backplate screws seem too short for the ek block, and gelid gc extreme is pretty much impossible to spread, CLP/ClU was 100x easier.
> 
> So frustrated because I've been without a desktop and had nothing to do since July...


that is the reason I order 5 extra of all the fittings I thought I might need. yes I will have a lot of extra fittings but that is ok.. Have 2nd PC I am planning now also...


----------



## FiveEYZ

Greetings from Sweden


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveEYZ*
> 
> Greetings from Sweden


looks like you were chopping wood on top of the box









welcome!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Unless you plan on benching, you won't see a difference Since you've already got quad channel. The Trident x is solid memory with Samsung ICs. From what I've seen the ripjaws z are some of the best dimms for the money, but those trident x kits have been a hot topic all over the thread.
> 
> I think the 32GB @2400 is a fairly good deal based on the 4x8GB 2133 Ripjaws z being 320 dollars. That 2800 kit is way too expensive, if you ask me, 400 MHz isn't worth half the density and 75% more expensive. In the end, Just get whatever fits your budget or hat you think looks good, that'll make a bigger difference than clockspeed or timings.
> 
> Edited for poor grammar, spelling and other exhaustion induced issues.


the 2400 kit also uses hynix as well,

also to note

my board should be out for delivery today i think !!!!... maybe



it was supposed to be tomorrow .... to hopefully today ?


----------



## szeged

the gskill trident X 2400mhz 16gb cas 9 kits are double sided samsung from all accounts ive seen. I have some here, maybe i should pop off the stock heatsink early(waiting on waterblocks) on one of them and find out for sure


----------



## Mega Man

ah sorry i missed the CL9

also.... imean come on this better come today...

look this is from another purchase from NCIX



it is due for delivery today ...


----------



## Redshift 91

Thanks szeged and Mega Man, I'm not too sure about the original manufacturer I thought all the trident x were Samsung based on earlier in the thread. but 2400 CAS 9 is a good kit, my 2133s are cas 11, not that I'd see a difference and I paid less than 270 for 32 GB.


----------



## szeged

A motherboard arrived today btw ...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I never said it was the RIVE-BE







Got the gf a new 8350 board...mostly so i can play with it to try to get it to 5ghz+ while i wait on newegg to finally ship my rive-be







Also guys, need/want your opinions in my build log, check the last post i put in it, can be found in my sig, ty


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Sigh, forgot to order a male to male extender so can't make a drain, evga 780ti backplate screws seem too short for the ek block, and gelid gc extreme is pretty much impossible to spread, CLP/ClU was 100x easier.
> 
> So frustrated because I've been without a desktop and had nothing to do since July...


I don't think you are supposed to spread Gelid, just put a dot on & mash down the block.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't think you are supposed to spread Gelid, just put a dot on & mash down the block.


My EK Supremacy block came with Gelid, and the instructions were blob and squish. Been running my system for 2 weeks and I've seen no problems with temperatures.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heracles*
> 
> Facebook, Website, email?


Facebook


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> A motherboard arrived today btw ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I never said it was the RIVE-BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the gf a new 8350 board...mostly so i can play with it to try to get it to 5ghz+ while i wait on newegg to finally ship my rive-be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also guys, need/want your opinions in my build log, check the last post i put in it, can be found in my sig, ty


not the ud3 >.< tell me it is a rev 1.1 !

let me know if you have any questions


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



the ud3 has some issues and i would lower your expectations on the oc unless it is a rev 1.1


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not the ud3 >.< tell me it is a rev 1.1 !
> 
> let me know if you have any questions
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> the ud3 has some issues and i would lower your expectations on the oc unless it is a rev 1.1


its a 1.1







first thing i checked lol, i read up on the board a bit before ordering.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> My EK Supremacy block came with Gelid, and the instructions were blob and squish. Been running my system for 2 weeks and I've seen no problems with temperatures.


Yupp pretty much all liquid/greace Tims benefit from blod and squish. It introduces Tue least amount of air. My all nickel csq supremaxy came with indigo extreme


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Alright guys.. Bad news
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally had some time to fire up my board, was putting it through the normal stress tests to see if everything was working alright before I put everything under water. So I start up LinX and Furmark to stress the cpu and gpu, 2 seconds into LinX my whole system powers off as if someone pulled the power plug, then 1-2 seconds go by and it turns itself back on. Obviously something is wrong.. The only thing in the bios I changed was setting the ram to xmp profile of my mushkin 993997 sticks (2133), so I jump back in and set it back to auto and load the bios optimized defaults so that the ram is now running at 1600. Fire up LinX and Furmark again and the system runs fine for 8 hours straight overnight.
> 
> Now, is it normal for a system to shut off like that ? If the mobo didn't like the XMP profile settings ?
> 
> I was under the assumption that if the system didn't really agree with the XMP profile that I would just get an error in LinX or maybe a BSOD, not a full on system shut down and restart.
> 
> Gonna try to just set the timings manually and try again tomorrow, gotta go to bed right now.
> 
> Do you guys think I need to RMA the board/ram ?


haaaaalp


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered! Thank You Again Sir! Much Appreciated Heads-up!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Add me please.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I shaved my chin and drinkers .. To spend the night with my wife enthusiastic
> 
> I'm going to duty and to the fullest


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveEYZ*
> 
> Greetings from Sweden
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats! And welcome







Let us know which CPU you'll be adding ! + Batch # (If IB-E series)









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> lame
> 
> Asus website is running like a slug, slower than 28k dialup days.


Lucky you I was the odd one out back then w/ a 19200 baud lol, finally saved up and grabbed a 28.8 cuz the 1k difference back then was worth it and capped on my line @ 26.3







took it back and got a 33.6 and still hit 26.6 was so bummed haha.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @RedShift 91
> 
> You should go with the newest LEPA revision, much much better PSU than the EVGA 1500W nex. The NEX is easily the most hated 1500W PSU's known to man.


I was looking @ LEPA's but the amp's on the channels didn't seem to match up w/ the Titan req's can they be set to single rail as well? And if so can I buy the custom threaded colored cables for them as well like the ones from Corsairs website or PPC's?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Lepa is nice this is for sure and a good quality made PSU.. EVGA's look so nice and 7 yr warranty plus never had problems with mine yet and easy to RMA if I do and I do have a LEPA 1600 Waiting in the wings!!!


Ok if Skupp's responds true on my statement then looks like I'll swap out my 1200AXi for the LEPA 1600









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the gskill trident X 2400mhz 16gb cas 9 kits are double sided samsung from all accounts ive seen. I have some here, maybe i should pop off the stock heatsink early(waiting on waterblocks) on one of them and find out for sure


Yeah they have them listed as CAS 10 but reviews and other places point they can be set to CAS 9 also verified w/ them directly as well







9-11-11-28 vs 10-12-12-31 ordering one more 32gb pack today.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't think you are supposed to spread Gelid, just put a dot on & mash down the block.


This is new to me, I always did the "apply a dime sized glop and even it out smoothly" Though mainly for CPU's back in the day I've kept to that method forever even on GPU's whats the average glob size you'd say?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Alright guys.. Bad news
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally had some time to fire up my board, was putting it through the normal stress tests to see if everything was working alright before I put everything under water. So I start up LinX and Furmark to stress the cpu and gpu, 2 seconds into LinX my whole system powers off as if someone pulled the power plug, then 1-2 seconds go by and it turns itself back on. Obviously something is wrong.. The only thing in the bios I changed was setting the ram to xmp profile of my mushkin 993997 sticks (2133), so I jump back in and set it back to auto and load the bios optimized defaults so that the ram is now running at 1600. Fire up LinX and Furmark again and the system runs fine for 8 hours straight overnight.
> 
> Now, is it normal for a system to shut off like that ? If the mobo didn't like the XMP profile settings ?
> 
> I was under the assumption that if the system didn't really agree with the XMP profile that I would just get an error in LinX or maybe a BSOD, not a full on system shut down and restart.
> 
> Gonna try to just set the timings manually and try again tomorrow, gotta go to bed right now.
> 
> Do you guys think I need to RMA the board/ram ?
> 
> 
> 
> haaaaalp
Click to expand...

sounds like your RAM (any idea what IC's are under the HS ? ) is the culprit ,post your RAM timings (you can take a screene in bios ) or load-line calibration
P.S. for stress test use XTU


----------



## skupples

Grain of rice for CPU. Half grain for GPU. You can find videos of different methods. Glob is always #1. Next to smiley face being #2.

O know you can mix rails on the lepa. Not sure about it having a single rail option. Probably does. Gglit

This doesnt apply to cool labs ultra. That is painted on as thin as possible. It cones off of nickel just fine but seems to absorb into the copper IHS.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Grain of rice for CPU. Half grain for GPU. You can find videos of different methods. Glob is always #1. Next to smiley face being #2.
> 
> O know you can mix rails on the lepa. Not sure about it having a single rail option. Probably does. Gglit
> 
> This doesnt apply to cool labs ultra. That is painted on as thin as possible. It cones off of nickel just fine but seems to absorb into the copper IHS.


Can't find it and not comfortable w/ combining though I lol'd at this

"Lovely are obviously the six +12V rail, *it has just so much power to handle multiple heavy duty graphics cards.* I mean 133 AMPs - *one graphics card uses 15A on average these days -- you do the math."*

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/lepa_g1600_psu_review,8.html


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> sounds like your RAM (any idea what IC's are under the HS ? ) is the culprit ,post your RAM timings (you can take a screene in bios ) or load-line calibration
> P.S. for stress test use XTU


This is the ram I have http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/quad-channel-ddr3-memory-review,3100-5.html

With XMP enabled it runs at 2133 9-11-10-28 @ 1.65v

Should I try to set the timings manually ?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> sounds like your RAM (any idea what IC's are under the HS ? ) is the culprit ,post your RAM timings (you can take a screene in bios ) or load-line calibration
> P.S. for stress test use XTU
> 
> 
> 
> This is the ram I have http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/quad-channel-ddr3-memory-review,3100-5.html
> 
> With XMP enabled it runs at 2133 9-11-10-28 @ 1.65v
> 
> Should I try to set the timings manually ?
Click to expand...

you have some pre-sets for different IC's in bios ...try them


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> you have some pre-sets for different IC's in bios ...try them


sorry, would you mind elaborating ? not too sure what you mean by "pre-sets" or "IC's"


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This is new to me, I always did the "apply a dime sized glop and even it out smoothly" Though mainly for CPU's back in the day I've kept to that method forever even on GPU's whats the average glob size you'd say?


Equivalent of two grains of rice, as directed in the instructions.


----------



## broken pixel

*** Newegg? I placed my order yesterday at 2pm CST and it is still in packing. The automated service says it was supposed to ship Dec 5th. Im going to be smashing eggs if i get my mobo Tuesday after I ordered with rush service and next day air.
I wonder why newegg does not have Saturday delivery options? When I ask them they just say its not in our contract with fedex.


----------



## FiveEYZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats! And welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let us know which CPU you'll be adding ! + Batch # (If IB-E series)


ill be using an 4930k Batch: 3326B665


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveEYZ*
> 
> ill be using an 4930k Batch: 3326B665


Thanks let us know your clocks later









Also anyone still in the market for RAM here you go "NAFSAVETENDEC6W" for 10% off on NewEgg , *may* be able to combine this w/ 10% off for using mobile. Using it for one more G.Skill pack.


----------



## Gorki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> sorry, would you mind elaborating ? not too sure what you mean by "pre-sets" or "IC's"


He means you have few profiles like samsung,hynix .... and few others so try loading them for the change. LOOK!


----------



## spinlock

Please add me to the owners list.

Also, I can't install Probe II. There is a popup that install is starting then a cmd prompt window opens, message asking if OK to copy files to some directory prints, then 10 seconds later every disappears. No error message and no directory is created in Program Files(or Program Files(x86)).

I downloaded latest from website and it behaves the same. Anyone seen this? How can it be debugged?

thanks!

cpuZ.jpg 382k .jpg file


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> 
> Grats! And welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let us know which CPU you'll be adding ! + Batch # (If IB-E series)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lucky you I was the odd one out back then w/ a 19200 baud lol, finally saved up and grabbed a 28.8 cuz the 1k difference back then was worth it and capped on my line @ 26.3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> took it back and got a 33.6 and still hit 26.6 was so bummed haha.
> I was looking @ LEPA's but the amp's on the channels didn't seem to match up w/ the Titan req's can they be set to single rail as well? And if so can I buy the custom threaded colored cables for them as well like the ones from Corsairs website or PPC's?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok if Skupp's responds true on my statement then looks like I'll swap out my 1200AXi for the LEPA 1600
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah they have them listed as CAS 10 but reviews and other places point they can be set to CAS 9 also verified w/ them directly as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 9-11-11-28 vs 10-12-12-31 ordering one more 32gb pack today.
> This is new to me, I always did the "apply a dime sized glop and even it out smoothly" Though mainly for CPU's back in the day I've kept to that method forever even on GPU's whats the average glob size you'd say?


Read more into the Lepa1600 as it's not a single rail PSU. Even though it's 1600w, you may not get the juice you need.


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorki*
> 
> He means you have few profiles like samsung,hynix .... and few others so try loading them for the change. LOOK!


Ahh ok, I'll try that out when I get home from work tonight. I thought XMP profile would automatically load the timings ?

Thanks for the visual


----------



## Raghar

I received mail:
Quote:


> Have patience. We would receive more info in Monday.


Well EU availability is still not that great. But I guess, I'd have much faster delivery. Geis, PPL, and DPD are much better in delivering stuff than normal services. (And few months after they appeared standard post service changed their measured delivery times from 4 days to 2 days, and packages ceased to look like workers played soccer with them.)


----------



## massimo40mq

Hello guys .. I'm also waiting for this fantastic card I read all the posts from the first day of the teatre .. I would like to mount ram dominator platinum give me some advice on what to put on the safe without having stability problems? Thanks in advance ...


----------



## binormalkilla

Looking to get Bluetooth working in order to use the ROG Android app........and I found this. I don't even.


On top of that, I downloaded it and the zip is corrupted.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Looking to get Bluetooth working in order to use the ROG Android app........and I found this. I don't even.
> 
> 
> On top of that, I downloaded it and the zip is corrupted.


Are you using 7zip? a majority of the time winzip/winrar report corrupted while 7zip does the job, it's something recent in the past year or so.


----------



## cruzdi

How come so few reviews on this motherboard? Apart from kit-guru and oc3d.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Looking to get Bluetooth working in order to use the ROG Android app........and I found this. I don't even.
> 
> 
> On top of that, I downloaded it and the zip is corrupted.


The motherboard disk comes with drivers for the bluetooth.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> How come so few reviews on this motherboard? Apart from kit-guru and oc3d.


Techpowerup reviewer said Gigabyte took his CPU they loaned him while ago, and that's it. I still don't have MB at home, so I can't write a volunteer like review. (Kinda wonder which site would post it.) Well it's kinda strange, they are so few of them. [H] is silent as well.


----------



## cadaveca

The board is selling like hotcakes, so I haven't rushed the review. I'm actually using the board as my daily driver right now so that when I finish the review I can give an accurate review.

That said, I got IVB-E CPUs a week or so ago.:



















Since I just got the chips too, I took the time to test each one is multiple boards so I could get a good feel for how the RIVBE clocks CPUs. Then I had to check out memory clocking...This isn't the chip I used for the review in these pics, and benchmark numbers are done already.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> The board is selling like hotcakes, so I haven't rushed the review. I'm actually using the board as my daily driver right now so that when I finish the review I can give an accurate review.
> 
> That said, I got IVB-E CPUs a week or so ago.:
> 
> Since I just got the chips too, I took the time to test each one is multiple boards so I could get a good feel for how the RIVBE clocks CPUs. Then I had to check out memory clocking...This isn't the chip I used for the review in these pics, and benchmark numbers are done already.


CAD! Since you're testing the CPU's mind tossing up your BATCH #'s for them + max achievables (stable )







we're building up a nice list on the OP
Same w/ Mem tests as well I wanna make sure we have a nice collection of information.

Especially for best recommended Mem brand types.

Also how old is your Antec PSU it looks my 1200W I have (bought in 2010)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> Hello guys .. I'm also waiting for this fantastic card I read all the posts from the first day of the teatre .. I would like to mount ram dominator platinum give me some advice on what to put on the safe without having stability problems? Thanks in advance ...


Just enable XMP, should work fine if your CPU is up to the task. When it isn't, then we can talk about fixing it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> CAD! Since you're testing the CPU's mind tossing up your BATCH #'s for them + max achievables (stable )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we're building up a nice list on the OP
> Same w/ Mem tests as well I wanna make sure we have a nice collection of information.
> 
> Especially for best recommended Mem brand types.
> 
> Also how old is your Antec PSU it looks my 1200W I have (bought in 2010)


Yeah, 2010 or so for the PSU.

Batch is really unimportant, since I got ES. They are earlier batch than retail chips seem to be, and all are from the same batch, with quite varied clocks. The worst barely does 4.3 @ 1.4V, the best I haven't pushed the limits of on this board yet...that'll be done this weekend, and then I'll start doing my write-up for the review. Used Dominator Platinum 2666 C10's for the review, was a piece of cake to get up and running.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Just enable XMP, should work fine if your CPU is up to the task. When it isn't, then we can talk about fixing it.
> Yeah, 2010 or so for the PSU.
> 
> Batch is really unimportant, since I got ES. They are earlier batch than retail chips seem to be, and all are from the same batch, with quite varied clocks. The worst barely does 4.3 @ 1.4V, the best I haven't pushed the limits of on this board yet...that'll be done this weekend, and then I'll start doing my write-up for the review. Used Dominator Platinum 2666 C10's for the review, was a piece of cake to get up and running.


Ah ok good to know, btw ES = Early Samples?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah ok good to know, btw ES = Early Samples?


Engineering Samples


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Just enable XMP, should work fine if your CPU is up to the task. When it isn't, then we can talk about fixing it.
> Yeah, 2010 or so for the PSU.
> 
> Batch is really unimportant, since I got ES. They are earlier batch than retail chips seem to be, and all are from the same batch, with quite varied clocks. The worst barely does 4.3 @ 1.4V, the best I haven't pushed the limits of on this board yet...that'll be done this weekend, and then I'll start doing my write-up for the review. Used Dominator Platinum 2666 C10's for the review, was a piece of cake to get up and running.


Thank you but how often should I take .. I see you put some 1600 perhaps because they do not want problems?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> Thank you but how often should I take .. I see you put some 1600 perhaps because they do not want problems?


CPU supports 1866 by default, board is capable of pushing 3000++ if you got a chip that can do those speeds as well. And htat is a big if. 2666 is not a problem, anything up to 2400 can be run without BCLK (bus)adjustment, and 2133 MHz seems the most optimized.


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> CPU supports 1866 by default, board is capable of pushing 3000++ if you got a chip that can do those speeds as well. And htat is a big if. 2666 is not a problem, anything up to 2400 can be run without BCLK (bus)adjustment, and 2133 MHz seems the most optimized.


Ok thank you very much for your help and I will continue to follow this great forum ..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> Thank you but how often should I take .. I see you put some 1600 perhaps because they do not want problems?


The more modules/ram you have the harder it's going to be to maintain a set speed, as it's putting more stress on the internal memory controller (IMC)


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

I have 2400Mhz CL9 Domis with a 4930k not on Asus Rampage IV Black Edition but on RIVE both are nearly the same.
2400Mhz will reach 95% of all 4930k easy.


----------



## zucciniknife

Still in packaging -_-


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The more modules/ram you have the harder it's going to be to maintain a set speed, as it's putting more stress on the internal memory controller (IMC)


I put 4/8 Gb for the accuracy of these

http://www.corsair.com/it/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-5v-32-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd32gx3m4a2133c9.html


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> I put 4/8 Gb for the accuracy of these
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/it/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-5v-32-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd32gx3m4a2133c9.html


why get the corsair? If that is what you want get them, but Gskill has the same kit and 150 less and I have had less problems with that memory than corsair. now this is just personal choice but i know a lot of people will agree with me that Gskill is the same or better memory for less money. but if you want those for looks go for it!!


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> Still in packaging -_-



I feel your pain............and suffering..............and anguish..............and endless pangs of longing


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> why get the corsair? If that is what you want get them, but Gskill has the same kit and 150 less and I have had less problems with that memory than corsair. now this is just personal choice but i know a lot of people will agree with me that Gskill is the same or better memory for less money. but if you want those for looks go for it!!


I thought corsair now on my PC because I pissed Rampage 3 extrime with 12 Gb ram corsair domnator and never had any problems at all overklock maximum ram processor 4.2 Ghz stable .. So I thought that on 4 Rampage Black Edition corsair going well .. What do you recommend?


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

@seross69 I run 8g 1600s in my 3 yr old box, and two of the 2g sticks came from my box she replaced almost 5 yrs ago. No hiccups.
Now I need to find some optimal GSkill for the new board. Think I noticed someone mention 2133. Do you concur? If not I'm open to all
options!


----------



## skupples

WOOHOOOO Finally got my auto-notify for the board from newegg. I only signed up for it like 4 weeks ago!


----------



## Mega Man

same and i have been able to buy the board.... for almost 24 hours..


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> WOOHOOOO Finally got my auto-notify for the board from newegg. I only signed up for it like 4 weeks ago!


I got my auto notifier from newegg a day after I ordered my BE. Lulz at newegg. I placed my order on Thursday at 2pm CST with rush processing and overnight delivery, I am still in packaging mode. :/


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> I thought corsair now on my PC because I pissed Rampage 3 extrime with 12 Gb ram corsair domnator and never had any problems at all overklock maximum ram processor 4.2 Ghz stable .. So I thought that on 4 Rampage Black Edition corsair going well .. What do you recommend?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> @seross69 I run 8g 1600s in my 3 yr old box, and two of the 2g sticks came from my box she replaced almost 5 yrs ago. No hiccups.
> Now I need to find some optimal GSkill for the new board. Think I noticed someone mention 2133. Do you concur? If not I'm open to all
> options!


gents,

there is nothing wrong with the Corsair ram other than the price and the fact the most they will do is what they are rated for so you have no possible head room on these. This is stated in several reviews one was on anatech i think.

I have used both and to be the best deal for your money is the Gskill.. now how fast you get them is going to depend on the amount of ram and the CPU because it has the memory controller in it now. but I would get the best 2133 or 2400 Gskill kit I could afford. it will be cheaper and I have found usually you have some headroom on the memory to speed it up or tighten timings. that is my recommendation....


----------



## DBaer

It looks like there is now enough supply of these that the topic should now turn to what we are doing with them









finally they are available for more than a few minutes.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> gents,
> 
> there is nothing wrong with the Corsair ram other than the price and the fact the most they will do is what they are rated for so you have no possible head room on these. This is stated in several reviews one was on anatech i think.
> 
> I have used both and to be the best deal for your money is the Gskill.. now how fast you get them is going to depend on the amount of ram and the CPU because it has the memory controller in it now. but I would get the best 2133 or 2400 Gskill kit I could afford. it will be cheaper and I have found usually you have some headroom on the memory to speed it up or tighten timings. that is my recommendation....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> It looks like there is now enough supply of these that the topic should now turn to what we are doing with them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finally they are available for more than a few minutes.


agreed. And thank you both.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> why get the corsair? If that is what you want get them, but Gskill has the same kit and 150 less and I have had less problems with that memory than corsair. now this is just personal choice but i know a lot of people will agree with me that Gskill is the same or better memory for less money. but if you want those for looks go for it!!


The Platinums perform well, but ppl get them for their amazing looks.

I will get those, if I chose not to water cool my memory. But if I chose to wc the memory, I'll def stick with something cheaper.


----------



## szeged

Good news - my board has finally passed packaging and went to shipping

bad news - my 4930k arrived and it looks like someone took my tamp ram to the box, seriously looks like usps just decided to run it over a few times, the cpu looks okay, but im not opening it yet until i take a ton of pics of the boxes it arrived in just incase, cuz im getting realllllllllllllly tired of usps doing stuff like this to my packages that cost $500+

batch# 3332b052 for the 4930k btw luna.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Good news - my board has finally passed packaging and went to shipping
> 
> bad news - my 4930k arrived and it looks like someone took my tamp ram to the box, seriously looks like usps just decided to run it over a few times, the cpu looks okay, but im not opening it yet until i take a ton of pics of the boxes it arrived in just incase, cuz im getting realllllllllllllly tired of usps doing stuff like this to my packages that cost $500+
> 
> batch# 3332b052 for the 4930k btw luna
> 
> 
> .


The USPS service continues to just go down down down to my kneees ohhh won't you feed my package to a barracuda. Specially when the packages are coming out of Rosemead/Reolinda California.


----------



## Mongo

Ok still messing, But I got the 4930k doing 4.5 @1.33 it has passed 20 runs of Intel burn and 2 hours Battlefield 4.

Also does any of you get loud speaker pop when you turn the system on? I'm using the onboard on the RIVBE.


----------



## 6steven9

Here are some pics of my completed build sorry about the quality cell phone is all I have.......


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## xvxvxv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Here are some pics of my completed build sorry about the quality cell phone is all I have.......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i want take photo with your monster


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Here are some pics of my completed build sorry about the quality cell phone is all I have.......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## xvxvxv

What is the function of this port?

Is it to support sli card for energy
or
or extra energy to fans cooling

????


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> What is the function of this port?
> 
> Is it to support sli card for energy
> or
> or extra energy to fans
> 
> ????


extra power to gpu's when you have 3/4 of them installed.


----------



## xvxvxv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> extra power to gpu's when you have 3/4 of them installed.


Can I use it to turn on the fan side?

If I use one graphics card


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> Can I use it to turn on the fan side?
> 
> If I use one graphics card


No you can not as it is just for extra power to motherboard. does not have output..


----------



## Radmanhs

This mobo vs EVGA X79 Dark. is it worth the extra $100 and why


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> This mobo vs EVGA X79 Dark. is it worth the extra $100 and why


while the evga x79 dark is an awesome mobo, it has some bugs/glitches with the bios atm, im sure evga is hard at work on them right now, but for now, they are there and very real. the x79 is a great board though, i was on the verge of buying one when this baby got in stock again.

also this will most likely be the last "shamino" designed board from asus, thats worth $100 imo


----------



## Arm3nian

Leak testing my build, what's weird is when I start the pump the water level in the res goes down, then when I turn it off it goes back up, does this mean anything?


----------



## Radmanhs

i also saw ek was making waterblocks for this mobo, im assuming it will include all the diferent styles. clean copper, nickel, ect


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> i also saw ek was making waterblocks for this mobo, im assuming it will include all the diferent styles. clean copper, nickel, ect


oops lol, just found the answer to my question, so its a yes


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Leak testing my build, what's weird is when I start the pump the water level in the res goes down, then when I turn it off it goes back up, does this mean anything?


it will do this for sure if your loop is not closed.

Example don't have top on res, have port open to fill..


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it will do this for sure if your loop is not closed.
> 
> Example don't have top on res, have port open to fill..


Hmm yeah I have the top off.


----------



## Mega Man

if it makes you feel any better mine still does this, but i attribute it to having 3x MCP with 1 or 2 running.... it does not do this ( yes all ports are closed and both sets of pumps have a res that is higher ( although one pump is higher then the rest ) )


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if it makes you feel any better mine still does this, but i attribute it to having 3x MCP with 1 or 2 running.... it does not do this ( yes all ports are closed and both sets of pumps have a res that is higher ( although one pump is higher then the rest ) )


I'm not really worried about it, just wondering if it is a giant air bubble lol. As long as there are no leaks everything should be fine, so far I don' think there are, but there I don't think there is a way to make sure 100%.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Leak testing my build, what's weird is when I start the pump the water level in the res goes down, then when I turn it off it goes back up, does this mean anything?


Same happened to me at first, until all the bubbles were gone. It still drops but not that much.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Leak testing my build, what's weird is when I start the pump the water level in the res goes down, then when I turn it off it goes back up, does this mean anything?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if it makes you feel any better mine still does this, but i attribute it to having 3x MCP with 1 or 2 running.... it does not do this ( yes all ports are closed and both sets of pumps have a res that is higher ( although one pump is higher then the rest ) )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if it makes you feel any better mine still does this, but i attribute it to having 3x MCP with 1 or 2 running.... it does not do this ( yes all ports are closed and both sets of pumps have a res that is higher ( although one pump is higher then the rest ) )
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not really worried about it, just wondering if it is a giant air bubble lol. As long as there are no leaks everything should be fine, so far I don' think there are, but there I don't think there is a way to make sure 100%.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Leak testing my build, what's weird is when I start the pump the water level in the res goes down, then when I turn it off it goes back up, does this mean anything?
> 
> 
> 
> Same happened to me at first, until all the bubbles were gone. It still drops but not that much.
Click to expand...

It's trapped air . . . .

Pump runs

Creates pressure in the system

Air bubble is compressed

Loop volume effectively increases

Res level drops

Pump turns off

Air bubble expands

Loop volume effectively decreases

Res level rises

In a system with thin walled flexible tubing, once it's reached its operating temp and the tubing is a bit softer, with multi pump systems you may have enough pressure to create some bulge/expansion in the tubing which could cause the res level to drop a small amount, but for a new system, it's trapped air.

There's a fixed physical volume, and all that's in it are coolant and air . . . . you know which one is compressible.

It's the only rational explanation.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's trapped air . . . .
> 
> Pump runs
> 
> Creates pressure in the system
> 
> Air bubble is compressed
> 
> Loop volume effectively increases
> 
> Res level drops
> 
> Pump turns off
> 
> Air bubble expands
> 
> Loop volume effectively decreases
> 
> Res level rises
> 
> In a system with thin walled flexible tubing, once it's reached its operating temp and the tubing is a bit softer, with multi pump systems you may have enough pressure to create some bulge/expansion in the tubing which could cause the res level to drop a small amount, but for a new system, it's trapped air.
> 
> There's a fixed physical volume, and all that's in it are coolant and air . . . . you know which one is compressible.
> 
> It's the only rational explanation.
> 
> Darlene


One other thing Darlene that will cause this is if you have the top off the reservoir like he did and you have a radiator above the reservoir. they will be some water trapped in the tubes that will flow back into the Reservoir. this happened to me and freaked me out at first because I had been running it for 4 hours with the top off the reservoir. when I shut it down I thought the reservoir was going to over flow so I turned it back on and the level dropped and I put the top on the reservoir and it stayed half full when ever I turned it off. With the top on you have the pressure of the air in the reservoir to stop the water from flowing back. this is all I could figure and I played with it for 2 days and this is what i found...

but I might be totally wrong. but for a 250mm reservoir to go from 25% full to almost 100% as soon as the pumps were off is all I can figure!!


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Leak testing my build, what's weird is when I start the pump the water level in the res goes down, then when I turn it off it goes back up, does this mean anything?


Thats totaly normal, its a pressure thing, do not let them interfere.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mongo*
> 
> Ok still messing, But I got the 4930k doing 4.5 @1.33 it has passed 20 runs of Intel burn and 2 hours Battlefield 4.
> 
> Also does any of you get loud speaker pop when you turn the system on? I'm using the onboard on the RIVBE.


Nice OC i'm curious to know about your settings i'm super noob to OC'ing 4.5 is a nice number I tried the asus preset one but my temps with an h100i in push/pull skyrocket to 80 degrees celcius + so i stuck with their 4.3 preset which they stay around 50


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

How many vcore you need to run 4.3 and 4.5 ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's trapped air . . . .
> 
> Pump runs
> 
> Creates pressure in the system
> 
> Air bubble is compressed
> 
> Loop volume effectively increases
> 
> Res level drops
> 
> Pump turns off
> 
> Air bubble expands
> 
> Loop volume effectively decreases
> 
> Res level rises
> 
> In a system with thin walled flexible tubing, once it's reached its operating temp and the tubing is a bit softer, with multi pump systems you may have enough pressure to create some bulge/expansion in the tubing which could cause the res level to drop a small amount, but for a new system, it's trapped air.
> 
> There's a fixed physical volume, and all that's in it are coolant and air . . . . you know which one is compressible.
> 
> It's the only rational explanation.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> One other thing Darlene that will cause this is if you have the top off the reservoir like he did and you have a radiator above the reservoir. they will be some water trapped in the tubes that will flow back into the Reservoir. this happened to me and freaked me out at first because I had been running it for 4 hours with the top off the reservoir. when I shut it down I thought the reservoir was going to over flow so I turned it back on and the level dropped and I put the top on the reservoir and it stayed half full when ever I turned it off. With the top on you have the pressure of the air in the reservoir to stop the water from flowing back. this is all I could figure and I played with it for 2 days and this is what i found...
> 
> but I might be totally wrong. but for a 250mm reservoir to go from 25% full to almost 100% as soon as the pumps were off is all I can figure!!
Click to expand...

you are putting pressure on your loop when you shut it down, i would recommend removing some of the top off and installing a pressure equalizer


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you are putting pressure on your loop when you shut it down, i would recommend removing some of the top off and installing a pressure equalizer


when the reservoir is only half full and the top is off the reservoir then how am I pressurizing it??

be sure it is not over pressurized or if it is I don't see how...

also I spent 2 days check everything and repeating it cause the same thing. I had a valve in the top of the reservoir and after I shut if off if i cracked open the valve then the reservoir would fill until I shut the valve. then when ever I started it it would have lots of air in it again and the level in the reservoir would go down...

what this tells me is that I have water draining from one of the Radiators that is above the Reservoir. if i allow air to escape from the reservoir.

maybe I am wrong but like I said I spent 2 days doing this trying to find where i was wrong at!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's trapped air . . . .
> 
> Pump runs
> 
> Creates pressure in the system
> 
> Air bubble is compressed
> 
> Loop volume effectively increases
> 
> Res level drops
> 
> Pump turns off
> 
> Air bubble expands
> 
> Loop volume effectively decreases
> 
> Res level rises
> 
> In a system with thin walled flexible tubing, once it's reached its operating temp and the tubing is a bit softer, with multi pump systems you may have enough pressure to create some bulge/expansion in the tubing which could cause the res level to drop a small amount, but for a new system, it's trapped air.
> 
> There's a fixed physical volume, and all that's in it are coolant and air . . . . you know which one is compressible.
> 
> It's the only rational explanation.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> One other thing Darlene that will cause this is if you have the top off the reservoir like he did and you have a radiator above the reservoir. they will be some water trapped in the tubes that will flow back into the Reservoir. this happened to me and freaked me out at first because I had been running it for 4 hours with the top off the reservoir. when I shut it down I thought the reservoir was going to over flow so I turned it back on and the level dropped and I put the top on the reservoir and it stayed half full when ever I turned it off. With the top on you have the pressure of the air in the reservoir to stop the water from flowing back. this is all I could figure and I played with it for 2 days and this is what i found...
> 
> but I might be totally wrong. but for a 250mm reservoir to go from 25% full to almost 100% as soon as the pumps were off is all I can figure!!
Click to expand...

If you're using a top return res and do not have dip tube, or the level is below it, the coolant can fall back into the res raising the level from gravity because there's a path for the space that was filled with coolant to replace the lost coolant with air.

If you have a bottom return res and the level rises when the pump is turned off, there is air in the system.

If there was no trapped air, the rad and whatever else was above the res level would not drain down for the same reason that a straw full of liquid will stay full as long as you close off the top end with you finger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Leak testing my build, what's weird is when I start the pump the water level in the res goes down, then when I turn it off it goes back up, does this mean anything?
> 
> 
> 
> Thats totaly normal, its a pressure thing, do not let them interfere.
Click to expand...

Would you expound a bit as to what kind of a "pressure thing" you think it is, and some physics to explain it and why it should be normal . . . . .

I beseech you to enlighten me here, so that the scales of ignorance covering my eyes may be vanquished.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mongo*
> 
> Ok still messing, But I got the 4930k doing 4.5 @1.33 it has passed 20 runs of Intel burn and 2 hours Battlefield 4.
> 
> Also does any of you get loud speaker pop when you turn the system on? I'm using the onboard on the RIVBE.


I get a weird click from something when I power up the mobo, can't tell if it's gpu blower, dynatron or motherboard.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Is this your first Asus mobo ?


----------



## JimmyWild

Ok, so my board is in Austin at the Fedex sorting facility. Set for Monday delivery. Does anyone know how to just get it from Fedex? Like go pick it up. I've picked up stuff after a delivery attempt failed, but not before. Ideas?
- 12/07/2013 - Saturday
7:47 am At destination sort facility - AUSTIN, TX
6:20 am In transit - MEMPHIS, TN
6:08 am Departed FedEx location - MEMPHIS, TN
1:40 am Arrived at FedEx location - MEMPHIS, TN
- 12/06/2013 - Friday
8:32 pm Shipment information sent to FedEx
5:40 pm Left FedEx origin facility - CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA
4:45 pm Picked up - CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA


----------



## coolhandluke41

^^^ Fedex is closed on Saturday


----------



## jamiee

Dang... Looks like my system isn't stable. Even at stock speeds I'm getting the occasional program randomly closing / crashing on me.
Intel Burn Test won't get past 7 passes on Standard mode before the PC re-boots









I'm running the 4930K at stock speed and voltage, and using XMP profile for the memory running @ 2133MHz (default timings).
I've even bumped the memory voltage up to 1.575v (default for this kit is 1.5v)

CPU temperatures are good at 28c-31c idle and 48c-52c while Burn test is running in Standard mode.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Is this your first Asus mobo ?


It's my first 2011 mobo, never noticed it on max V formula, or my AMD asus mobo's. Is this normal?

I know the sound card thump is pretty standard on their integrated sound mobo's.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Dang... Looks like my system isn't stable. Even at stock speeds I'm getting the occasional program randomly closing / crashing on me.
> Intel Burn Test won't get past 7 passes on Standard mode before the PC re-boots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running the 4930K at stock speed and voltage, and using XMP profile for the memory running @ 2133MHz (default timings).
> I've even bumped the memory voltage up to 1.575v (default for this kit is 1.5v)
> 
> CPU temperatures are good at 28c-31c idle and 48c-52c while Burn test is running in Standard mode.


What BIOS version are you using? Try running the memory at lower speeds.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Ok, so my board is in Austin at the Fedex sorting facility. Set for Monday delivery. Does anyone know how to just get it from Fedex? Like go pick it up. I've picked up stuff after a delivery attempt failed, but not before. Ideas?
> - 12/07/2013 - Saturday
> 7:47 am At destination sort facility - AUSTIN, TX
> 6:20 am In transit - MEMPHIS, TN
> 6:08 am Departed FedEx location - MEMPHIS, TN
> 1:40 am Arrived at FedEx location - MEMPHIS, TN
> - 12/06/2013 - Friday
> 8:32 pm Shipment information sent to FedEx
> 5:40 pm Left FedEx origin facility - CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA
> 4:45 pm Picked up - CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA


http://www.fedex.com/us/fcl/pckgenvlp/pickup/index.html





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> ^^^ Fedex is closed on Saturday


----------



## coolhandluke41

^ I guess I'm in 10% bracket ,the one by me is closed

@skupples..you will be fine ,some mobos make that noise


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What BIOS version are you using? Try running the memory at lower speeds.


0403 - The stock BIOS.

Yeah, I'm about to try slower RAM speeds and see if it helps.
Even my old 3930K & RIVE could run 2133MH RAM speeds though without issue.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Dang... Looks like my system isn't stable. Even at stock speeds I'm getting the occasional program randomly closing / crashing on me.
> Intel Burn Test won't get past 7 passes on Standard mode before the PC re-boots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running the 4930K at stock speed and voltage, and using XMP profile for the memory running @ 2133MHz (default timings).
> I've even bumped the memory voltage up to 1.575v (default for this kit is 1.5v)
> 
> CPU temperatures are good at 28c-31c idle and 48c-52c while Burn test is running in Standard mode.


So this is only happening when you're clocking your RAM higher? It may be your CPU can't handle higher frequencies.


----------



## skupples

It's very strange i tell you! Finding corrosion on allot of my old fittings, but the blocks are spotless. Guess I got lucky.

Is it normal for these Phobya 4x1 fan combiner cords to only have ONE header with 3x pins? The rest are all 2x pins. The built quality is garbage, the headers barely stay attached to each other.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What BIOS version are you using? Try running the memory at lower speeds.


Is there more than one BIOS for RIV BE?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I get a weird click from something when I power up the mobo, can't tell if it's gpu blower, dynatron or motherboard.


I heard they solved the sonic boom that happened during shut down, by adding a relay on board. Perhaps it's that one. From what location comes that sound?


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> So this is only happening when you're clocking your RAM higher? It may be your CPU can't handle higher frequencies.


No my ram is running at it's rated speed and timing.

I just tried 1600MHz @ 1.5v and it still crashes - very quickly at that!

Next thing to try is the 2400MHz Dominator Platinum kit I have in the other rig.
This should at least tell me if it's a memory problem.


----------



## JimmyWild

I ended up just calling Fedex and I can't get my board cause it's "consolidated" with some other shipments and they can't open that box till Monday to get mine specifically out. Oh well, guess I'll have more time to watch football today lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I heard they solved the sonic boom that happened during shut down, by adding a relay on board. Perhaps it's that one. From what location comes that sound?


Can't tell right now, too many moving parts with it setup as an aircooled bench. Will know better once I get it under water..

I'm thoroughly pissed with the build quality of these phobya 4x1 fan plugs. Looking @ them makes them unlpug from each other. It's going to be next to impossible to build with these things.


----------



## jamiee

Just tried the Dominator Platinum sticks and it still crashes quickly running Burn test.
So I don't think it's the memory.

Hmmmmm.....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's very strange i tell you! Finding corrosion on allot of my old fittings, but the blocks are spotless. Guess I got lucky.
> 
> *Is it normal for these Phobya 4x1 fan combiner cords to only have ONE header with 3x pins? The rest are all 2x pins. The built quality is garbage, the headers barely stay attached to each other*.


Yes,

You can only have 1 fan in a group reporting RPM, or whatever is reading the signal will read wayyy high thinking all the pulses are coming from one fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I heard they solved the sonic boom that happened during shut down, by adding a relay on board. Perhaps it's that one. From what location comes that sound?
> 
> 
> 
> Can't tell right now, too many moving parts with it setup as an aircooled bench. Will know better once I get it under water..
> 
> *I'm thoroughly pissed with the build quality of these phobya 4x1 fan plugs. Looking @ them makes them unlpug from each other. It's going to be next to impossible to build with these things.*
Click to expand...

Phobya, or Bitfenix, it's pure crap.

Learned that lesson years ago . . . . .

I've got a bag of fan splitters and other "Alchemy" series extensions that I wouldn't touch, much less use after they came and I saw how cheesy they were. Some of the connectors won't even plug into the PSU cables, no matter how much mojo and wiggle you put on them.

You seldom get more than you pay for, and these would be overpriced at







.

If you want reliable, high quality fan extensions and splitters, buy the parts and wire, make them yourself, and solder the connections.

It takes time, and it's a PITA, but I have not had an issue in years now.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes,
> 
> You can only have 1 fan in a group reporting RPM, or whatever is reading the signal will read wayyy high thinking all the pulses are coming from one fan.
> Phobya, or Bitfenix, it's pure crap.
> 
> Learned that lesson years ago . . . . .
> 
> I've got a bag of fan splitters and other "Alchemy" series extensions that I wouldn't touch, much less use after they came and I saw how cheesy they were. Some of the connectors won't even plug into the PSU cables.
> 
> You seldom get more than you pay for, and these would be overpriced at
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If you want reliable, high quality fan extensions and splitters, buy the parts and wire, make them yourself, and solder the connections.
> 
> It takes time, and it's a PITA, but I have not had an issue in years now.
> 
> 
> Darlene


These: Phobya, enclosed housing, no retention clip, only ONE of them is 3 pinned, the rest are two pin (if that even matters?) GARBAGE

These, idk who makes them, can't find them in more than 2 to 1, great build quality, awesome contact.


Need to figure out who makes the ones in the second picture, & if they make them in greater volumes like 4x & 6x. Making my own sounds like fun, but that would require me buying a new iron, as my old from from years passed has taken a dump.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Just tried the Dominator Platinum sticks and it still crashes quickly running Burn test.
> So I don't think it's the memory.
> 
> Hmmmmm.....


Are all the bios settings set to default? Like in digi power section etc? If not just load optimized defaults.

System rebooting not bsod is usually power issue when under load.

What power supply are you using and.check all the cables to the board.

Sent from my HTC Butterfly s using Tapatalk


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's my first 2011 mobo, never noticed it on max V formula, or my AMD asus mobo's. Is this normal?
> 
> I know the sound card thump is pretty standard on their integrated sound mobo's.


All of my Asus mobo have this klick







i think its normal


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> Are all the bios settings set to default? Like in digi power section etc? If not just load optimized defaults.
> 
> System rebooting not bsod is usually power issue when under load.
> 
> What power supply are you using and.check all the cables to the board.
> 
> Sent from my HTC Butterfly s using Tapatalk


Tried the Dom's at 1600MHz and this time the system didn't crash, but I did get a warning from Burn Test - 27 seconds in, that the CPU was unstable.

My system either reboots or bsod's so I don't think it's a power problem. All cables appear OK.
PSU = Corsair AX860i

As for the BIOS, yes all settings default other than setting memory to XMP and disabling on-board devices I don't need.
To be sure, I did load Optimized Defaults earlier


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Tried the Dom's at 1600MHz and this time the system didn't crash, but I did get a warning from Burn Test - 27 seconds in, that the CPU was unstable.
> 
> My system either reboots or bsod's so I don't think it's a power problem. All cables appear OK.
> PSU = Corsair AX860i
> 
> As for the BIOS, yes all settings default other than setting memory to XMP and disabling on-board devices I don't need.
> To be sure, I did load Optimized Defaults earlier


If the dominators ran fine in the other system, it's not memory. To be 100% sure, try the memory that was in the BE in the rig you pulled the Dominators out of, if they run fine, you most likely need to RMA the CPU.

Edit: Have you tried your PSU with another rig? I would try that too, just in case.


----------



## cadaveca

Jamiee,

Set CPU loadline to high. this will give CPU the voltage you set in BIOS...otherwise I suspect vDroop is your problem(yes, I can create this same issue on my board with all three chips)

set both vCPU and VCCSA @ "Manual", 1.05V or higher for VCCSA, vCPU, start @ 4.2 GHZ @ 1.2 V.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I get a weird click from something when I power up the mobo, can't tell if it's gpu blower, dynatron or motherboard.


Click is the audio portion as driver is loaded.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Is there more than one BIOS for RIV BE?


two BIOSes, pre-release (0208), and launch(0403). There is also a tuned BIOS floating AROUND somewheres, a 00XX bios.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Jamiee,
> 
> Set CPU loadline to high. this will give CPU the voltage you set in BIOS...otherwise I suspect vDroop is your problem(yes, I can create this same issue on my board with all three chips)
> 
> set both vCPU and VCCSA @ "Manual", 1.05V or higher for VCCSA, vCPU, start @ 4.2 GHZ @ 1.2 V.
> Click is the audio portion as driver is loaded.
> two BIOSes, pre-release (0208), and launch(0403). There is also a tuned BIOS floating AROUND somewheres, a 00XX bios.


The specific click i'm talking about isn't through the speakers. It's a physical audible click from the board.

RAAAAAAAGEEEEEEEE

One of my shelves just collapsed sending "stuff" flying EVERYWHERE. Bout to go hulk smash on this 900D. Such a pile of junk, & i just found out after 3 months that PPC improperly filled my order. Gave me 2x of one thing, instead of 8 of this, and 8 of that. (fittings)


----------



## Mongo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Nice OC i'm curious to know about your settings i'm super noob to OC'ing 4.5 is a nice number I tried the asus preset one but my temps with an h100i in push/pull skyrocket to 80 degrees celcius + so i stuck with their 4.3 preset which they stay around 50


Im on water.

And there is so many setting in this motherboard.

I took my time a read this: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?5835-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Extreme-UEFI-Guide-for-Overclocking&country=&status=

That another member had pointed out to me.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Jamiee,
> Set CPU loadline to high. this will give CPU the voltage you set in BIOS...otherwise I suspect vDroop is your problem(yes, I can create this same issue on my board with all three chips).


You Sir deserve 5 STARS !! ** * * * **

CPU loadline set to HIGH worked








I just ran 10 passes each of IBT on both Standard and High modes... Both passed









Next I will take the Dominators out and put the Vengeance Pro's back in.

Funny with the RIVE and a 3930K I barely have to set anything in the BIOS to get that machine running at 4.4 - 4.5Ghz problem free.
Goes to show how different the RIVBE and 4930K combo are. I suppose an immature BIOS might have a little to do with it as well?

Thanks


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The specific click i'm talking about isn't through the speakers. It's a physical audible click from the board.
> 
> RAAAAAAAGEEEEEEEE
> 
> One of my shelves just collapsed sending "stuff" flying EVERYWHERE. Bout to go hulk smash on this 900D. Such a pile of junk, & i just found out after 3 months that PPC improperly filled my order. Gave me 2x of one thing, instead of 8 of this, and 8 of that. (fittings)


My board clicks on start up even after watercooling, it's not your titan and it seems normal to me, any other owner can chime in as well.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> My board clicks on start up even after watercooling, it's not your titan and it seems normal to me, any other owner can chime in as well.


Probably just the juices flowing or something. Not too worried about it. Only thing i'm worried about at this point is WHERE THE HELL i'm going to put the A6XT.

The 900D front panel is designed as such that you have to cut out these stupid little plastic tabs to get things into the bay's, I may be able to fit it underneath the bay res, but it will require MOAR cutting of the case. Which iv'e already had to do a tooooon of. QQQQQQ I think it's time for lunch & a beer.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> My board clicks on start up even after watercooling, it's not your titan and it seems normal to me, any other owner can chime in as well.


Mine clicks as well. I haven't really paid much attention to it TBH. It's not the first board I've owned that did it.


----------



## Mongo

Mine is a loud speaker pop when I hit the start button on the MB. Doesn't do it when I shut down.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's very strange i tell you! Finding corrosion on allot of my old fittings, but the blocks are spotless. Guess I got lucky.
> 
> Is it normal for these Phobya 4x1 fan combiner cords to only have ONE header with 3x pins? The rest are all 2x pins. The built quality is garbage, the headers barely stay attached to each other.


dont say that i just ordered their 9way splitters .... dang it ! i may have to pull off an aquacomputer mod ( see the board in this video ! )




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> I ended up just calling Fedex and I can't get my board cause it's "consolidated" with some other shipments and they can't open that box till Monday to get mine specifically out. Oh well, guess I'll have more time to watch football today lol.


i am in the same boat my friend... sad as it was supposed ot be here thursday ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's very strange i tell you! Finding corrosion on allot of my old fittings, but the blocks are spotless. Guess I got lucky.
> 
> *Is it normal for these Phobya 4x1 fan combiner cords to only have ONE header with 3x pins? The rest are all 2x pins. The built quality is garbage, the headers barely stay attached to each other*.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes,
> 
> You can only have 1 fan in a group reporting RPM, or whatever is reading the signal will read wayyy high thinking all the pulses are coming from one fan.
Click to expand...

yea this, 1 fan header can only read 1 fan speed ( the third wire is RPM first and second are +12v and ground )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I heard they solved the sonic boom that happened during shut down, by adding a relay on board. Perhaps it's that one. From what location comes that sound?
> 
> 
> 
> Can't tell right now, too many moving parts with it setup as an aircooled bench. Will know better once I get it under water..
> 
> *I'm thoroughly pissed with the build quality of these phobya 4x1 fan plugs. Looking @ them makes them unlpug from each other. It's going to be next to impossible to build with these things.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Phobya, or Bitfenix, it's pure crap.
> 
> Learned that lesson years ago . . . . .
> 
> I've got a bag of fan splitters and other "Alchemy" series extensions that I wouldn't touch, much less use after they came and I saw how cheesy they were. Some of the connectors won't even plug into the PSU cables, no matter how much mojo and wiggle you put on them.
> 
> You seldom get more than you pay for, and these would be overpriced at
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If you want reliable, high quality fan extensions and splitters, buy the parts and wire, make them yourself, and solder the connections.
> 
> It takes time, and it's a PITA, but I have not had an issue in years now.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The specific click i'm talking about isn't through the speakers. It's a physical audible click from the board.
> 
> RAAAAAAAGEEEEEEEE
> 
> One of my shelves just collapsed sending "stuff" flying EVERYWHERE. Bout to go hulk smash on this 900D. Such a pile of junk, & i just found out after 3 months that PPC improperly filled my order. Gave me 2x of one thing, instead of 8 of this, and 8 of that. (fittings)


<.> that sucks ! GL man
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> My board clicks on start up even after watercooling, it's not your titan and it seems normal to me, any other owner can chime in as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Probably just the juices flowing or something. Not too worried about it. Only thing i'm worried about at this point is WHERE THE HELL i'm going to put the A6XT.
> 
> The 900D front panel is designed as such that you have to cut out these stupid little plastic tabs to get things into the bay's, I may be able to fit it underneath the bay res, but it will require MOAR cutting of the case. Which iv'e already had to do a tooooon of. QQQQQQ I think it's time for lunch & a beer.
Click to expand...

sounds to me like it is time for a CaseLabs Case !


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dont say that i just ordered their 9way splitters .... dang it ! i may have to pull off an aquacomputer mod ( see the board in this video ! )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yea this, 1 fan header can only read 1 fan speed ( the third wire is RPM first and second are +12v and ground )
> +1
> <.> that sucks ! GL man


I just have to be extremely delicate with the process. I have all of my fans running to 2x Mod My Toy's 5x to 1x header boards. Those will then run to the A6XT. Just need to figure out where i'll be happy with it. Think i'll end up just sticking it under the bay res. This, is definitely my last time using a bay res btw.







The only problem is that the A6 is like 1mm wider than the opening on the 900D, so it's going to stick out ever so slightly, which is annoying as hell. Had the same issue with the bay res, had to sand down the sides of the face plate. I'm calling it a flaw on corsairs part since multiple things don't fit properly.


----------



## Redshift 91

I'm not sure which reading to trust, Realtemp says my hottest cpu core is 75c and my coolest is 62, but the oc panel tells me the cpu temp is 57c. That's pretty baffling to me.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I'm not sure which reading to trust, Realtemp says my hottest cpu core is 75c and my coolest is 62, but the oc panel tells me the cpu temp is 57c. That's pretty baffling to me.


99% of the time bios can not read temps on die and they use a thermister built into the socket
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I just have to be extremely delicate with the process. I have all of my fans running to 2x Mod My Toy's 5x to 1x header boards. Those will then run to the A6XT. Just need to figure out where i'll be happy with it. Think i'll end up just sticking it under the bay res. This, is definitely my last time using a bay res btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem is that the A6 is like 1mm wider than the opening on the 900D, so it's going to stick out ever so slightly, which is annoying as hell. Had the same issue with the bay res, had to sand down the sides of the face plate. I'm calling it a flaw on corsairs part since multiple things don't fit properly.


but if you buy a CL case... you would never have to deal with corsairs stuff again !

and you would be in ecstasy!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The specific click i'm talking about isn't through the speakers. It's a physical audible click from the board.
> 
> RAAAAAAAGEEEEEEEE
> 
> One of my shelves just collapsed sending "stuff" flying EVERYWHERE. Bout to go hulk smash on this 900D. Such a pile of junk, & i just found out after 3 months that PPC improperly filled my order. Gave me 2x of one thing, instead of 8 of this, and 8 of that. (fittings)


Yes, it's a relay in the audio portion, as mentioned by another poster. It should also click on shutdown.

The audio on the RIVBE is very much like an add-in Xonar card, even in quality, and these cards do the same thing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> You Sir deserve 5 STARS !! ** * * * **
> 
> CPU loadline set to HIGH worked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ran 10 passes each of IBT on both Standard and High modes... Both passed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I will take the Dominators out and put the Vengeance Pro's back in.
> 
> Funny with the RIVE and a 3930K I barely have to set anything in the BIOS to get that machine running at 4.4 - 4.5Ghz problem free.
> Goes to show how different the RIVBE and 4930K combo are. I suppose an immature BIOS might have a little to do with it as well?
> 
> Thanks


Yeah, after TTL did the video review, he mentioned in it that only "auto" worked for him. So when I ran into this issue after updating the BIOS to 0403, that was the first place I went in BIOS to figure out what might be the issue. I believe this is one of the changes from 0208 to 0403, as 0403 wasn't out yet when TTL did that video review. I got my first board from ASUS a couple of days before TTL got theirs, so I just assumed that he and I got boards out of the same batch.

ASUS now very purposefully leaves auto settings as "default", rather than OC-oriented. One you start playing with multis and such, some items should auto-adjust, and did adjust with 0208, but it seems that 0403 needs more manual setting adjustments. With the Haswell launch, ASUS had quite a few different versions of the same BIOSes...ASUS-tuned, stock, and OC-tuned, and I think the RIVBE is kind of getting the same treatment. I do feel we need some BIOS updates for this board yet, and some memory profiles for 8GB memory DIMMs is needed as well.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yes, it's a relay in the audio portion, as mentioned by another poster. It should also click on shutdown.
> 
> The audio on the RIVBE is very much like an add-in Xonar card, even in quality, and these cards do the same thing.


My xense does the same thing, that speaks to the quality of the onboard. Not that I'll ever know.


----------



## Arm3nian

Well my water level dropped by a centimeter overnight in my tube res, leak or just air bubbles.. I'm leaning towards air since the connections look fine. With the top on and all ports closed, the water level still drops a little when i turn the pump on.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yes, it's a relay in the audio portion, as mentioned by another poster. It should also click on shutdown.
> 
> The audio on the RIVBE is very much like an add-in Xonar card, even in quality, and these cards do the same thing.
> Yeah, after TTL did the video review, he mentioned in it that only "auto" worked for him. So when I ran into this issue after updating the BIOS to 0403, that was the first place I went in BIOS to figure out what might be the issue. I believe this is one of the changes from 0208 to 0403, as 0403 wasn't out yet when TTL did that video review. I got my first board from ASUS a couple of days before TTL got theirs, so I just assumed that he and I got boards out of the same batch.


Now that you mention it , it does sound the same as me switching the input impedance of my xonar essence stx.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Now that you mention it , it does sound the same as me switching the input impedance of my xonar essence stx.


yep.

same circuit design.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yes, it's a relay in the audio portion, as mentioned by another poster. It should also click on shutdown.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The audio on the RIVBE is very much like an add-in Xonar card, even in quality, and these cards do the same thing.
> Yeah, after TTL did the video review, he mentioned in it that only "auto" worked for him. So when I ran into this issue after updating the BIOS to 0403, that was the first place I went in BIOS to figure out what might be the issue. I believe this is one of the changes from 0208 to 0403, as 0403 wasn't out yet when TTL did that video review. I got my first board from ASUS a couple of days before TTL got theirs, so I just assumed that he and I got boards out of the same batch.
> 
> ASUS now very purposefully leaves auto settings as "default", rather than OC-oriented. One you start playing with multis and such, some items should auto-adjust, and did adjust with 0208, but it seems that 0403 needs more manual setting adjustments. With the Haswell launch, ASUS had quite a few different versions of the same BIOSes...ASUS-tuned, stock, and OC-tuned, and I think the RIVBE is kind of getting the same treatment. I do feel we need some BIOS updates for this board yet, and some memory profiles for 8GB memory DIMMs is needed as well.


Yes it also happens on shutdown. Guess you are correct! +1

OK, beer & lunch consumed. Time to get back to work while i'm invigorated with food in my belly.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, after TTL did the video review, he mentioned in it that only "auto" worked for him. So when I ran into this issue after updating the BIOS to 0403, that was the first place I went in BIOS to figure out what might be the issue. I believe this is one of the changes from 0208 to 0403, as 0403 wasn't out yet when TTL did that video review. I got my first board from ASUS a couple of days before TTL got theirs, so I just assumed that he and I got boards out of the same batch.
> 
> ASUS now very purposefully leaves auto settings as "default", rather than OC-oriented. One you start playing with multis and such, some items should auto-adjust, and did adjust with 0208, but it seems that 0403 needs more manual setting adjustments. With the Haswell launch, ASUS had quite a few different versions of the same BIOSes...ASUS-tuned, stock, and OC-tuned, and I think the RIVBE is kind of getting the same treatment. I do feel we need some BIOS updates for this board yet, and some memory profiles for 8GB memory DIMMs is needed as well.


Admittedly I skipped through parts the the TTL video... Maybe I shouldn't have LoL!

Anyhoo... I'm getting a tad frustrated with this board now








I placed the Vengeance Pro's back in and BAM! *Instant instability*. So I tried them at various speeds (1600, 1866, 2133MHz) and each time the system crashed running IBT.
(of course I re-set the XMP each time, then manually adjusted the speed).
With that not working, I went back to the Dominator's, and now I can't even get them stable...... Oooof!

I will try setting "auto" and manually adjust everything.
But at this point it's hard to tell if I have a hardware problem, or if it's just an early BIOS that needs some tweaking to get working properly.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I'm not sure which reading to trust, Realtemp says my hottest cpu core is 75c and my coolest is 62, but the oc panel tells me the cpu temp is 57c. That's pretty baffling to me.


maybe the 57C is the CPU package with all cores averaged out. Realtemp is reliable from my experience.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Jamiee,
> 
> Set CPU loadline to high. this will give CPU the voltage you set in BIOS...otherwise I suspect vDroop is your problem(yes, I can create this same issue on my board with all three chips)
> 
> set both vCPU and VCCSA @ "Manual", 1.05V or higher for VCCSA, vCPU, start @ 4.2 GHZ @ 1.2 V.
> 
> two BIOSes, pre-release (0208), and launch(0403). There is also a tuned BIOS floating AROUND somewheres, a 00XX bios.


This is the kind of info we need on the front page so we don't have to wade through 150 pages of, "I still have not got my board yet / useless delivery companies."


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Admittedly I skipped through parts the the TTL video... Maybe I shouldn't have LoL!
> 
> Anyhoo... I'm getting a tad frustrated with this board now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I placed the Vengeance Pro's back in and BAM! *Instant instability*. So I tried them at various speeds (1600, 1866, 2133MHz) and each time the system crashed running IBT.
> (of course I re-set the XMP each time, then manually adjusted the speed).
> With that not working, I went back to the Dominator's, and now I can't even get them stable...... Oooof!
> 
> I will try setting "auto" and manually adjust everything.
> But at this point it's hard to tell if I have a hardware problem, or if it's just an early BIOS that needs some tweaking to get working properly.


When you change memory, you need to "load optimized defaults", always. Setting XMP again simply isn't enough.

also, look at you DIMM's serial numbers, and install with lowest number is 1st slot(channel A), 2nd in second (CHannel B), etc, etc.

Doing a good CMOS clear(remove battery, short jumper, etc) is a good idea just in general when playing with memory, as sometimes I feel like the Intel MEI can get confused/corrupted itself and cause issues.

Also be sure to not flash BIOS with onboard part disabled...can lead to them being permanently disabled.

Also be sure to check IN SPD tool that board timings match SPD timings for your sticks...tFAW and tWCL can be off sometimes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> This is the kind of info we need on the front page so we don't have to wade through 150 pages of, "I still have not got my board yet / useless delivery companies."


I'm still exploring the board myself, even, and I had it weeks before the retail launch. I plan to put some directions in my review as well, as some of this is just the CPUs...not just the board.

The just so much to explore here on the RIVBE that I am myself relying on some of the feedback here to see if what I get correlates with what you guys get....


----------



## Mega Man

meh i like wading through it, forums are not just about finding the info you want, i like to have a convo !


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> maybe the 57C is the CPU package with all cores averaged out. Realtemp is reliable from my experience.


I thought that as well, however, every core was between 75 and 62, 57 was cooler than the coolest core. I've decided to trust real temp, because the cpu throttled at 91c on real temp and asus was reporting 71c to me. DON"T TRUST THE OC PANEL, it can be up to 20c off.

However, throttling raised another question, how can my cpu throttle when it's watercooled. I removed the block, stripped the indigo xtreme, and applied some phobya hegrease. I noticed my idle temps were 6c hotter, so I ran occt avx with 90% memory again, my cpu was failing after 1 minute, now I just ran it for 5, not over 70c, roughly 20c cooler than before. I guess I won't be buying Idigo xtreme anymore.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> meh i like wading through it, forums are not just about finding the info you want, i like to have a convo !


Don't get me wrong. I have really enjoyed reading every page. Some good laughs. You can't help feeling bad about those that are still waiting and even agree about a lot of the shipping complaints.

Just thought it would be a good idea to have these tidbits of useful info on the front page so we don't have to read every post to find something.

@ cadaveca. will be waiting for that read when it's ready.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> However, throttling raised another question, how can my cpu throttle when it's watercooled. I removed the block, stripped the indigo xtreme, and applied some phobya hegrease. I noticed my idle temps were 6c hotter, so I ran occt avx with 90% memory again, my cpu was failing after 1 minute, now I just ran it for 5, not over 70c, roughly 20c cooler than before. I guess I won't be buying Idigo xtreme anymore.


You should do proper reflow, it's isolator otherwise.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> You should do proper reflow, it's isolator otherwise.


I know my reflow failed, but when I did it, I got the proper curve and when I pulled it off, I had to do a little scraping to remove it. It also took a week of running for the issue to show itself, I did a bunch of benches to make sure it worked. I'm pretty sure it was me, but it seems like it's too hit and miss for me to throw money at again.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I know my reflow failed, but when I did it, I got the proper curve and when I pulled it off, I had to do a little scraping to remove it. It also took a week of running for the issue to show itself, I did a bunch of benches to make sure it worked. I'm pretty sure it was me, but it seems like it's too hit and miss for me to throw money at again.


Indigo Xtreme is a butt load of work to get it done right. You basically have to bust out a level & make sure the case is perfectly flat. Then you have to worry about having the block on too tight/loose. I have like 4 left over strips from my lga1155 experiments. 80$ i'll never get back.

Also, add 5c to the "proper" reflow chart, @least that's been my experience. It doesn't really matter if a bit is missing from the corners of the IHS, it just needs to be perfect in the middle of the IHS.

Copper/IHS absorbs CLU i found out as well recently.


----------



## LunaP

So my TH10 arrived yesterday, seriously amazed @ this thing. It's big but if it was any smaller I can't imagine how it would benefit me









Decided to at least pop the board in and the CPU/Mem for now till I get my WC parts. Been documenting with photos so when my WC parts arrive THEN I might start a build log as for right now it'd be kinda dead for a week or so depending on how long shipment takes etc. Also before anyone points it out I have another 32gb pack of RAM coming for the other side











Noticed the back plating, and that the box comes w/ an LGA 2011? So do I need to remove that / swap it out or will CPU WC blocks come w/ their own for both sides?


Inside the TH10


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> When you change memory, you need to "load optimized defaults", always. Setting XMP again simply isn't enough.
> 
> also, look at you DIMM's serial numbers, and install with lowest number is 1st slot(channel A), 2nd in second (CHannel B), etc, etc.
> 
> Doing a good CMOS clear(remove battery, short jumper, etc) is a good idea just in general when playing with memory, as sometimes I feel like the Intel MEI can get confused/corrupted itself and cause issues.
> 
> Also be sure to not flash BIOS with onboard part disabled...can lead to them being permanently disabled.
> 
> Also be sure to check IN SPD tool that board timings match SPD timings for your sticks...tFAW and tWCL can be off sometimes.
> I'm still exploring the board myself, even, and I had it weeks before the retail launch. I plan to put some directions in my review as well, as some of this is just the CPUs...not just the board.
> 
> The just so much to explore here on the RIVBE that I am myself relying on some of the feedback here to see if what I get correlates with what you guys get....


Yeah I always load Optimized Defaults (well most of the time anyway







).

I'm learning quickly that the RIVBE is *NOT* the RIVE and as such I can't quite treat them in the same ways.
The more I dig, the more I'm discovering that stability is achievable, but it's going to take more effort than with the RIVE.

I'm pretty sure at this point that my CPU, MOBO, & RAM are all good. I just need to figure out the right BIOS configuration.
I've got it stable with the Dominator's at 1866MHz now..... a step in the right direction.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Yeah I always load Optimized Defaults (well most of the time anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I'm learning quickly that the RIVBE is *NOT* the RIVE and as such I can't quite treat them in the same ways.
> The more I dig, the more I'm discovering that stability is achievable, but it's going to take more effort than with the RIVE.
> 
> I'm pretty sure at this point that my CPU, MOBO, & RAM are all good. I just need to figure out the right BIOS configuration.
> I've got it stable with the Dominator's at 1866MHz now..... a step in the right direction.


Man, hopefully before I get my board, you guys will have worked out the kinks in this beast and an updated bios is available. But then again wish I could join in the fun right now!


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Noticed the back plating, and that the box comes w/ an LGA 2011? So do I need to remove that / swap it out or will CPU WC blocks come w/ their own for both sides?


I used the backplate on the board with my cpu block, even used the lga 2011 posts, I'm 99% sure every block is compatible.


----------



## Arm3nian

Everything is up and running









Getting some very good temps with GC extreme blob method, even better than Liquid Pro on both the GPU and CPU.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Everything is up and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting some very good temps with GC extreme blob method, even better than Liquid Pro on both the GPU and CPU.


congrats

On the better temps, you got a better mounting this time I would think is the reason for the better temps...

Keep us posted on your OC??


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> congrats
> 
> On the better temps, you got a better mounting this time I would think is the reason for the better temps...
> 
> Keep us posted on your OC??


Ofc, will oc in a few days, need to play some games now


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Ofc, will oc in a few days, need to play some games now


yeah I can understand that, need to have some fun with it or what is the reason to build.

the bad thing is overclocking, testing and bench marking is so much more fun to me than games.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yeah I can understand that, need to have some fun with it or what is the reason to build.
> 
> the bad thing is overclocking, testing and bench marking is so much more fun to me than games.


I go back & forth. Get board with one, switch to the other, get board with that, switch back to the other.

900D is so meh for watercooling. Have had to cut & drill so many new holes.



guess it would be different if I was using a tube res, & not bay res.

tomorrow the mobo & top rad goes in. WooT.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I go back & forth. Get board with one, switch to the other, get board with that, switch back to the other.
> 
> 900D is so meh for watercooling. Have had to cut & drill so many new holes.
> 
> 
> 
> guess it would be different if I was using a tube res, & not bay res.
> 
> tomorrow the mobo & top rad goes in. WooT.


Yeah it is always hard in the SFF cases to water cool.. Save and get a CL Case!!! You will not regret it and this is for sure...


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> You Sir deserve 5 STARS !! ** * * * **
> 
> CPU loadline set to HIGH worked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ran 10 passes each of IBT on both Standard and High modes... Both passed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I will take the Dominators out and put the Vengeance Pro's back in.
> 
> Funny with the RIVE and a 3930K I barely have to set anything in the BIOS to get that machine running at 4.4 - 4.5Ghz problem free.
> Goes to show how different the RIVBE and 4930K combo are. I suppose an immature BIOS might have a little to do with it as well?
> 
> Thanks


Your mileage may vary. I was able to ht 4.7 stable in the first couple of boots adjusting just multiplier and voltage. I didn't find it hard at all.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Your mileage may vary. I was able to ht 4.7 stable in the first couple of boots adjusting just multiplier and voltage. I didn't find it hard at all.


Yeah unfortunately, I'm not having that kind of luck.

One thing is for sure at this point. I cannot get stable at all with the Corsair Vengeance Pro 4x8GB (32GB) 2133MHz C11 sticks.
Windows Memory Diagnostic reports hardware problems almost right away after the test starts. This is regardless of the BIOS configuration I use.

The Corsair Dominator Platinum 4x4GB (16GB) 2400MHz C9 sticks seem to be stable sometimes... just depending on how I have the BIOS configured.

I also have a G-Skill 8x4GB (32GB) 2133MHz C11 set laying around here somewhere that might be worth trying...

I don't know if the Vengeance Pro kit is bad, or if it's just not compatible with the RIVBE (right now anyway)?
All sticks read properly, so I doubt there's a bad RAM slot.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Yeah unfortunately, I'm not having that kind of luck.
> 
> One thing is for sure at this point. I cannot get stable at all with the Corsair Vengeance Pro 4x8GB (32GB) 2133MHz C11 sticks.
> Windows Memory Diagnostic reports hardware problems almost right away after the test starts. This is regardless of the BIOS configuration I use.
> 
> The Corsair Dominator Platinum 4x4GB (16GB) 2400MHz C9 sticks seem to be stable sometimes... just depending on how I have the BIOS configured.
> 
> I also have a G-Skill 8x4GB (32GB) 2133MHz C11 set laying around here somewhere that might be worth trying...
> 
> I don't know if the Vengeance Pro kit is bad, or if it's just not compatible with the RIVBE (right now anyway)?
> All sticks read properly, so I doubt there's a bad RAM slot.


if I remember right the original RIVE had a lot of problems with corsair memory on launch so try the GSkill and see what happens. I am always telling people to buy these so would like to see someone besides myself get good results with them!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yeah it is always hard in the SFF cases to water cool.. Save and get a CL Case!!! You will not regret it and this is for sure...


You guys make me bust up. Everything is SFF besides caselabs double widE!!!!!!!!!! (mwahahhaha)

Like iv'e said many times. When I thought I would have this motherboard 6 weeks ago caselabs wasn't in the budget. IF asus wouldn't of misguided us 10+ times I would be slapping things in the double wide right now. Always next time. 6 or so months from now.

Progress isn't too bad. Had to run a line allllll the way down the length of the case. to get the water from front rad to bottom rad. Only way. Will have to fill from the top rad with it like this. Not a big deal.



The amount of corrosion i'm discovering on my old fittings is a bit worrisome, but it's not on the inside, or in any of my blocks? It's only on the threading & on the rad caps... (air exposure?)


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You guys make me bust up. Everything is SFF besides caselabs double widE!!!!!!!!!! (mwahahhaha)
> 
> Like iv'e said many times. When I thought I would have this motherboard 6 weeks ago caselabs wasn't in the budget. IF asus wouldn't of misguided us 10+ times I would be slapping things in the double wide right now. Always next time. 6 or so months from now.
> 
> Progress isn't too bad. Had to run a line allllll the way down the length of the case. to get the water from front rad to bottom rad. Only way. Will have to fill from the top rad with it like this. Not a big deal.
> 
> 
> 
> The amount of corrosion i'm discovering on my old fittings is a bit worrisome, but it's not on the inside, or in any of my blocks? It's only on the threading & on the rad caps... (air exposure?)


BP fittings getting corroded?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> BP fittings getting corroded?


Yessir, all the threads are covered in corrosion, yet none inside the loop/fittings/blocks.


----------



## jamiee

OK, I found the G-Skill Ripjaws "F3-1700CL11Q2-32GBZL" (8x4GB) I had.
For fun I installed all 8 DIMMS , cleared the CMOS and re-set the BIOS to optimized defaults.

From there I set the memory to it's XMP values (2133MHz C11) and set CPU + VCCSA loadline calibration to "high".
I then disabled the onboard devices I didn't want running, and that's pretty much it.

Saved settings and booted into Windows....
(Note: no overclocking of the CPU yet).

I'm now on my 3rd run of IBT (starting in Standard mode and increasing to Very High - 10 passes ea.) and it has been completely stable









Clearly the RIVBE is finicky about the RAM you install in it!
This should have been the hardest test with all 8 sticks running, and yet it was by far the easiest to get running









I don't like filling all the memory banks, so maybe I will return the Vengeance Pro's and get a 4x8GB (32GB) kit of something else.


----------



## Arm3nian

Put the 4930k at 4.5ghz @1.3 and ran small ffts for about 45 minutes and no issues.
Only settings I changed was put the llc to high and enabled pll overvoltage.
My trident x is running 2400mhz 9-11-11-31-1T no problems.

Not bad for spending 20seconds in the bios. This board has so many options, need to allocate a few days to getting the highest clock.
Max temp on a core I saw was 59c.
I can most likely get 4.5 stable at way lower than 1.3, as 1.3 was literally a random voltage I just threw in there.


----------



## skupples

Good stuff folks! I hope to have this beast up & running by the end of next week. My custom acrylic should be here monday. I'll be throwing the motherboard in tomorrow, I would do it tonight but i'm about 3/4 the way through this 50$ bottle of wine, so it's probably not the best idea to be handling 500-1000$ components.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> OK, I found the G-Skill Ripjaws "F3-1700CL11Q2-32GBZL" (8x4GB) I had.
> For fun I installed all 8 DIMMS , cleared the CMOS and re-set the BIOS to optimized defaults.
> 
> From there I set the memory to it's XMP values (2133MHz C11) and set CPU + VCCSA loadline calibration to "high".
> I then disabled the onboard devices I didn't want running, and that's pretty much it.
> 
> Saved settings and booted into Windows....
> (Note: no overclocking of the CPU yet).
> 
> I'm now on my 3rd run of IBT (starting in Standard mode and increasing to Very High - 10 passes ea.) and it has been completely stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clearly the RIVBE is finicky about the RAM you install in it!
> This should have been the hardest test with all 8 sticks running, and yet it was by far the easiest to get running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't like filling all the memory banks, so maybe I will return the Vengeance Pro's and get a 4x8GB (32GB) kit of something else.


See I told you the GSkill would work.. And you would have no problems with them!! I never had and glad to see someone verify this!! Dont know why ASUS and Corsair memory does not play nice... but it was like this in the beginning with the RIVE and now same with the BE..

Glad you got it figured out. and if you want 32 GB I would get the Gskill Set at 2400 then!! 150 less than the Corsair and will perform better!!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yessir, all the threads are covered in corrosion, yet none inside the loop/fittings/blocks.


got any pics of the corrosion?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> got any pics of the corrosion?


will get you some. It looks acidic, which doesn't make any sense... The water in my loop passed all my chemical tests with flying colors. (used my pool kit & dip strips)

DERRRP THE CORROSION LOOKS ACIDIC!


----------



## skupples

@szeged

Already wiped most of it off, since the internals were clean I re-used most of the fittings. Here is one of them that was actually affected inside & out.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> will get you some. *It looks acidic*, which doesn't make any sense... The water in my loop passed all my chemical tests with flying colors. (used my pool kit & dip strips)
> 
> DERRRP *THE CORROSION LOOKS ACIDIC*!


----------



## skupples

It just... Why would they be coroding if my water was passing tests with flying colors? Chlorine was non existent (would hope so w/ de-ionized) PH was basic, alkalinity was perfect.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> It just... Why would they be coroding if my water was passing tests with flying colors? Chlorine was non existent (would hope so w/ de-ionized) PH was basic, alkalinity was perfect.


I see the problem it is the wine you have in the loop.

Wine is for Drinking when you run out of *rum* not for your loop!!!!!

wine is acidic that is what caused the problems!!!!


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> See I told you the GSkill would work.. And you would have no problems with them!! I never had and glad to see someone verify this!! Dont know why ASUS and Corsair memory does not play nice... but it was like this in the beginning with the RIVE and now same with the BE..
> 
> Glad you got it figured out. and if you want 32 GB I would get the Gskill Set at 2400 then!! 150 less than the Corsair and will perform better!!!


Yeah I have no idea what's up with Asus & Corsair memory.
I thought they would have had all that resolved for the RIVBE, but I guess not









I like the simple look of the Vengeance Pro silver in my system, but if it's not meant to be.... well so be it.

G-Skill Trident 2400MHz is definitely on my short list, but it's only $25 cheaper here in Canada compared to the Corsair (at least on Newegg.ca).


----------



## skupples




----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


Yep, caved and ordered me some "*F3-2400C10Q-32GTX*"
- Add another to the Trident X club


----------



## szeged

Gonna be repainting my tridentX top fins to black, makes the rive-be look too much like the original rive imo.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Gonna be repainting my tridentX top fins to black, makes the rive-be look too much like the original rive imo.


I thought about it but I really think the red makes it pop for mine, though the platinum tops are pretty sexy inside too. What type black will you be doing? Glossy style or ?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I thought about it but I really think the red makes it pop for mine, though the platinum tops are pretty sexy inside too. What type black will you be doing? Glossy style or ?


i was thinking matte black but i might try glossy, i got both paints avail and ill try both out, then buff off the one i dont like and repaint it to the one i do like


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i was thinking matte black but i might try glossy, i got both paints avail and ill try both out, then buff off the one i dont like and repaint it to the one i do like


Nice show pics when you do.

And I feel stupid, when I was putting it together earlier, I didn't pay attention to the fact that the other DIM channels were reversed and was trying to push a mem stick in after putting on the opposite side...









Doubt I did dmg but still hoping I didn't. Won't be able to turn this thing on for at least another week.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Nice show pics when you do.
> 
> And I feel stupid, when I was putting it together earlier, I didn't pay attention to the fact that the other DIM channels were reversed and was trying to push a mem stick in after putting on the opposite side...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt I did dmg but still hoping I didn't. Won't be able to turn this thing on for at least another week.


will do, most of the pics of my rivebe build will go into my build log, but ill post here also.

working on making my own custom fan filters for the STH10 so i can actually use it for this build, i did some testing and the fan filters on my 900D get dirty overnight if the rig is on, so i cant use the sth10 without filters lol, so current plan is to recycle the 900D into the build until i get some stuff made. The demciflex fan filters are atrocious imo.

alo i doubt you did any damage to the DIMM slots or the ram themselves, the ram pcb's are pretty tough on the tridents, i was all but hammering them when i first got mine lol.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> will do, most of the pics of my rivebe build will go into my build log, but ill post here also.
> 
> working on making my own custom fan filters for the STH10 so i can actually use it for this build, i did some testing and the fan filters on my 900D get dirty overnight if the rig is on, so i cant use the sth10 without filters lol, so current plan is to recycle the 900D into the build until i get some stuff made. The demciflex fan filters are atrocious imo.
> 
> alo i doubt you did any damage to the DIMM slots or the ram themselves, the ram pcb's are pretty tough on the tridents, i was all but hammering them when i first got mine lol.


Nice what case fans did you decide on / RAD Fans.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Nice what case fans did you decide on / RAD Fans.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Gonna be repainting my tridentX top fins to black, makes the rive-be look too much like the original rive imo.


The fins are removable, so that's always an option if you don't like the red.

I'm not overly crazy about the fins either, but my PC isn't in a position where I'm looking at it all the time, so I'll probably just keep the fins on.
..That's unless my OCD kicks in...... in which case I'll paint or remove them


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> The fins are removable, so that's always an option if you don't like the red.
> 
> I'm not overly crazy about the fins either, but my PC isn't in a position where I'm looking at it all the time, so I'll probably just keep the fins on.
> ..That's unless my OCD kicks in...... in which case I'll paint or remove the fins


Yeah i took the fins off to see how im gonna paint them, i actually like the extra height and shape the fins give the ram, without them they look plain and boring imo, so i wanna keep them on but im thinking red/grey with hints of red in my new build, instead of just lots of red


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*


Crazy how they've stayed @ The top for all these years you'd figure something new and aesthetic would come along just as good lol.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Crazy how they've stayed @ The top for all these years you'd figure something new and aesthetic would come along just as good lol.


the noiseblocker e-loops come pretty close, i was going to go with them but i found some ap-15's for cheap so i went with those instead lol.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the noiseblocker e-loops come pretty close, i was going to go with them but i found some ap-15's for cheap so i went with those instead lol.


Any places that sell em in bulk? I know I"ll need at least 32 for starters. Might still use some cougars for the front AF w/ red LED's.

Do you notice the coil whine w/ yours that some talk about or are they pretty silent?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> if I remember right the original RIVE had a lot of problems with corsair memory on launch so try the GSkill and see what happens. I am always telling people to buy these so would like to see someone besides myself get good results with them!!


I took the g-skill advice. I was going to get the Dominator Platinums but these were way WAY cheaper with the code i think i got them for like$139 ish. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
Hope they do well when I get my board!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Any places that sell em in bulk? I know I"ll need at least 32 for starters. Might still use some cougars for the front AF w/ red LED's.
> 
> Do you notice the coil whine w/ yours that some talk about or are they pretty silent?


not sure on bulk e-loops or ap-15s, i usually grab fans from PPCs, ebay or here in the marketplace lol.

Mine are pretty much silent lol.


----------



## binormalkilla

This 4930K and/or board doesn't like 46 multi. I somehow managed to pass 12+ hours of Prime95 a few days ago at 4.6 GHz, but it's still not stable. I'm trying some BCLK OCing for now to compensate. So far so good. I feel like I've tried a huge array of settings, but nothing is working so far.

Maybe a BIOS revision would help, since I've been seeing some bugginess here and there.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> maybe the 57C is the CPU package with all cores averaged out. Realtemp is reliable from my experience.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought that as well, however, every core was between 75 and 62, 57 was cooler than the coolest core. I've decided to trust real temp, because the cpu throttled at 91c on real temp and asus was reporting 71c to me. DON"T TRUST THE OC PANEL, it can be up to 20c off.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I'm not sure which reading to trust, Realtemp says my hottest cpu core is 75c and my coolest is 62, but the oc panel tells me the cpu temp is 57c. That's pretty baffling to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 99% of the time bios can not read temps on die and they use a thermister built into the _*socket
> *_
Click to expand...

and it is accurate, however it should be lower in most cases then on die temp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i was thinking matte black but i might try glossy, i got both paints avail and ill try both out, then buff off the one i dont like and repaint it to the one i do like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice show pics when you do.
> 
> And I feel stupid, when I was putting it together earlier, I didn't pay attention to the fact that the other DIM channels were reversed and was trying to push a mem stick in after putting on the opposite side...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt I did dmg but still hoping I didn't. Won't be able to turn this thing on for at least another week.
Click to expand...

haha i did the same thing on my test board good news it is fine, miracle sammies are TOUGH ! but i was not over exerting them best piece of advice a boss ever gave me, if you are forcing it, your doing it wrong !


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i was thinking matte black but i might try glossy, i got both paints avail and ill try both out, then buff off the one i dont like and repaint it to the one i do like


How are you going to paint them to avoid destroying the thermal properties of the sink/What kind of paint are you going to use to keep from destroying the thermal properties of the powder coated sink?

This case is just too damned tall. I'm going to have to order all sorts of wire extenders Monday. If I want to use any of the included temp sensors from the A6XT i'm going to have to get extenders for those. Basically, proper cable management is going to cost another 100$+ because 900D is too tall.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Yep, caved and ordered me some "*F3-2400C10Q-32GTX*"
> - Add another to the Trident X club


It's good stuff. Have all 32gb running on the "Rive:be box bench" right now, it's on default though. 1333 i believe.


----------



## Mega Man

sounds like a good time to ditch the 900d !

ill leave this here for you
http://www.caselabs-store.com/


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> How are you going to paint them to avoid destroying the thermal properties of the sink/What kind of paint are you going to use to keep from destroying the thermal properties of the powder coated sink?
> 
> This case is just too damned tall. I'm going to have to order all sorts of wire extenders Monday. If I want to use any of the included temp sensors from the A6XT i'm going to have to get extenders for those. Basically, proper cable management is going to cost another 100$+ because 900D is too tall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's good stuff. Have all 32gb running on the "Rive:be box bench" right now, it's on default though. 1333 i believe.


going to give it a very light coat of matte black at first, enough to make it black but not enough to insulate it so it traps heat, not sure which paint im gonna use atm though but ill find something.

Imo the 900D isnt tall enough







i have it sitting side by side the sth10 atm and i wish i could use the sth10 but no fan filters kills it for me right now =\


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like a good time to ditch the 900d !
> 
> ill leave this here for you
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/


Lol poor skupples everyones been jumping him lately on this

come to the wide side


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## xvxvxv

I need help in developing a plan to connect the wires fans properly and smooth

So I can control the speed of fans and radiator

Each separately

( I use Google translator to communicate with you .. So excuse me if there were mistakes







)

This picture illustrations for accessories I have











Do not worry about directing fans have filter against dust


----------



## szeged

I dont know why im even considering painting the trident X fins lol, my waterblocks for them arrive monday lol i completely forgot...oh well, im gonna paint them anyways and see how they perform so i can share the results with others wanting to do it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I need help in developing a plan to connect the wires fans properly and smooth
> 
> So I can control the speed of fans and radiator
> 
> Each separately
> 
> ( I use Google translator to communicate with you .. So excuse me if there were mistakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> This picture illustrations for accessories I have


First, let me recommend this to you. This is the best fan controller known to man

Second,  This will only allow 100% speed, no adjustments. You are looking for something like this You would then connect how ever many fans you want to the above unit, then connect the above unit to the fan controller.

The only thing I would change on your rendering is to blow air out of the top of the case, instead of in to the top of the case. I hope this translates well.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> will do, most of the pics of my rivebe build will go into my build log, but ill post here also.
> 
> working on making my own custom fan filters for the STH10 so i can actually use it for this build, i did some testing and the fan filters on my 900D get dirty overnight if the rig is on, so i cant use the sth10 without filters lol, so current plan is to recycle the 900D into the build until i get some stuff made. The demciflex fan filters are atrocious imo.
> 
> alo i doubt you did any damage to the DIMM slots or the ram themselves, the ram pcb's are pretty tough on the tridents, i was all but hammering them when i first got mine lol.


You will never see the demciflex fan filters because they fit inside the covers. not on the out side.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I took the g-skill advice. I was going to get the Dominator Platinums but these were way WAY cheaper with the code i think i got them for like$139 ish. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
> Hope they do well when I get my board!


Good choice!!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I dont know why im even considering painting the trident X fins lol, my waterblocks for them arrive monday lol i completely forgot...oh well, im gonna paint them anyways and see how they perform so i can share the results with others wanting to do it.


I bet you will not be able to see difference in the temps of the memory... but still nice to see


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You will never see the demciflex fan filters because they fit inside the covers. not on the out side.
> Good choice!!!!
> I bet you will not be able to see difference in the temps of the memory... but still nice to see


ah i had no idea they fit on the inside, everything ive seen says they went on the outside lol. well then...that makes life easy.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ah i had no idea they fit on the inside, everything ive seen says they went on the outside lol. well then...that makes life easy.


someone linked to a build that used it a few pages back if you want to look and see what I am talking about!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> someone linked to a build that used it a few pages back if you want to look and see what I am talking about!!


i actually just saw that not even a minute ago lol, ill order some and see if i like em.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> someone linked to a build that used it a few pages back if you want to look and see what I am talking about!!


Would the filters fit the TH10 or are there sep for those?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Would the filters fit the TH10 or are there sep for those?


I am not sure visit their web site and look and if not take measurements and they will make.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Would the filters fit the TH10 or are there sep for those?


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19623/ffi-156/DEMCiflex_CaseLabs_Magnum_TH10_Magnetic_Dust_Fan_Filter_Set_-_6_Piece.html?tl=g47c223s1024


----------



## skupples

Am I blind or is there no default "XMP" tap on the main overclocking tab? I had to go into the dimm page & set all the timings manually. I must just be blind, 2AM derpage.

The good news is, I got it to boot just fine w/ 32gb @ 2133 @ 10-11-11-31 CPU is only @ 3.8 though.


----------



## zucciniknife

Still in packaging...









need more rageface


----------



## xvxvxv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> First, let me recommend this to you. This is the best fan controller known to man
> 
> Second,  This will only allow 100% speed, no adjustments. You are looking for something like this You would then connect how ever many fans you want to the above unit, then connect the above unit to the fan controller.
> 
> The only thing I would change on your rendering is to blow air out of the top of the case, instead of in to the top of the case. I hope this translates well.


Useful answer











What is the difference between these

CPU_FAN
CPU_OPT
OPT_FAN
CHA_FAN

What is the right place for connecting the pump


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Useful answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the difference between these
> 
> CPU_FAN
> CPU_OPT
> OPT_FAN
> CHA_FAN
> 
> What is the right place for connecting the pump


If the pump is "PWM" you will need to connect it to the CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT. As to pump placement, I don't think orientation matters with that model, but the manual may suggest a "proper" placement method.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> Useful answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the difference between these
> 
> CPU_FAN
> CPU_OPT
> OPT_FAN
> CHA_FAN
> 
> What is the right place for connecting the pump
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You can do what you want but I would not be trying to run those fans using the motherboard headers. I have never done this and you can overload your motherboard like this and damage it.

best thing to do is hook them to the PSU or if you want to be able to control them to get a fan controller. they have these from very simple to one that do everything including temps, flow, and run pumps. they are fully automatic and you program these. but something simple with just knobs would work.

Look here for a lot of differant ones.. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_48


----------



## zucciniknife

On a side note, has anyone noticed a difference between clocking to 2133 and 2400 on ram on the board?

I just dropped around 7 hundo on 8x8gb 2400 ripjaws rated for timings of CAS 10 10-12-12-31 at 1.65v

Any experiences?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> On a side note, has anyone noticed a difference between clocking to 2133 and 2400 on ram on the board?
> 
> I just dropped around 7 hundo on 8x8gb 2400 ripjaws rated for timings of CAS 10 10-12-12-31 at 1.65v
> 
> Any experiences?


You will only be able to time the difference with a stop watch that counts micro-seconds. If you have no real use for extreme amounts of ram I would return the set & get 16-32gb. Filling all slots just to fill slots is kind of silly, & puts a major stress on the IMC which can/will result in lower CPU OC's. Now then, if you are heavily into things that consume obscene amounts of ram, it should be a great investment.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You will only be able to time the difference with a stop watch that counts micro-seconds. If you have no real use for extreme amounts of ram I would return the set & get 16-32gb. Filling all slots just to fill slots is kind of silly, & puts a major stress on the IMC which can/will result in lower CPU OC's. Now then, if you are heavily into things that consume obscene amounts of ram, it should be a great investment.


Yar for people like me who are at 75% on average usage of their 24gb of RAM







64GB will be a nice addition though I've heard no issues w/ 8 sticks w/ the Trident's which is another reason I went for them









Really lovin the red though and dang those fins are smooth


----------



## Redshift 91

redownloading steam library, only 3 years remaining...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> redownloading steam library, only 3 years remaining...


lolololololol.

It seems it was impossible to avoid red in this build. Ram & PSU VGA cords are going to be red until I get around to sleeving them. Good news is I now have an extra set of wires due to the EVGA recall so I can slowly sleeve the extra set when i'm bored.

OK SLEEPY TIME. I plan to be leak testing by tomorrow night, will have to just throw everything inside the case while i'm waiting on extender cables & what not.

Can anyone recommend a quality cable extension company? Iv'e head some horror stories about dead components due to low quality units.


----------



## kpoeticg

If you ask in the cable sleeving gallery thread you could probly find some1 with good experience to do it. I think Lutro might sell extensions too

Obviously i'm not sure which stories you're talking about, but that can easily happen if you buy extensions and just plug em into your PSU. Need to make sure your PSU comes with a 1:1 pinout if you wanna do that or get cables for that specific PSU.

Sorry if i'm stating the obvious.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like a good time to ditch the 900d !
> 
> ill leave this here for you
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol poor skupples everyones been jumping him lately on this
> 
> come to the wide side
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

nah, this path he is on he will spend more on the 900d then just buying a CL case. so now he cant say we didnt warn him !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Would the filters fit the TH10 or are there sep for those?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19623/ffi-156/DEMCiflex_CaseLabs_Magnum_TH10_Magnetic_Dust_Fan_Filter_Set_-_6_Piece.html?tl=g47c223s1024
Click to expand...

have to say epic fail on their part... madnetic ?

correct me if i am wrong or missing a piece of the puzzle. but.... aluminum is .... not magnetic !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> redownloading steam library, only 3 years remaining...
> 
> 
> 
> lolololololol.
> 
> It seems it was impossible to avoid red in this build. Ram & PSU VGA cords are going to be red until I get around to sleeving them. Good news is I now have an extra set of wires due to the EVGA recall so I can slowly sleeve the extra set when i'm bored.
> 
> OK SLEEPY TIME. I plan to be leak testing by tomorrow night, will have to just throw everything inside the case while i'm waiting on extender cables & what not.
> 
> Can anyone recommend a quality cable extension company? Iv'e head some horror stories about dead components due to low quality units.
Click to expand...

i know of one, mod-diy buy the parts and you are the company, you make your own !


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> correct me if i am wrong or missing a piece of the puzzle. but.... aluminum is .... not magnetic !
> !


Mega Man One side is a tape the other side is a magnet. you use the tape to stick it to the inside of the fan covers and then the filters will stick to this!!


----------



## Mega Man

ahhhh thanks ! ill just stick to cleaning my rig every other week. it makes me feel secure, i can look for signs of leaks like this !


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ahhhh thanks ! ill just stick to cleaning my rig every other week. it makes me feel secure, i can look for signs of leaks like this !


you still have to clean, you have to clean the filters instead of the rad.. and then check for leaks!!


----------



## Mega Man

meh ill stick to shop vacing it !


----------



## xvxvxv

Can I control Two fans blow on one channel when their connection with PWM Fan Splitter Cable ??

like this


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I control Two fans blow on one channel when their connection with PWM Fan Splitter Cable ??
> 
> like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yes you can use this to do up to 30 watts per channel of fans. you could actually put more than 2 on each channel.. it is just going to control the voltage to the fans which is fan.


----------



## jamiee

Just woke up to this little nugget:



*Note:* the max CPU temps shown on Real Temp were from early on in the test while I was browsing the net with Firefox.
Once closed, CPU temps dropped to 56c MAX during the burn with the CPU running at 3.9GHz turbo.

I must say, I'm quite happy with the H100i in push/pull

Next up.... OVERCLOCK LAND! ....Oh Happy Happy Joy Joy!!!!


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> *Note:* the max CPU temps shown on Real Temp were from early on in the test while I was browsing the net with Firefox.


These are reasons why I use Iceweasel.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> And I feel stupid, when I was putting it together earlier, I didn't pay attention to the fact that the other DIM channels were reversed and was trying to push a mem stick in after putting on the opposite side...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt I did dmg but still hoping I didn't. Won't be able to turn this thing on for at least another week.


They are keyed, even small children can assemble them right.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Just woke up to this little nugget:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note:* the max CPU temps shown on Real Temp were from early on in the test while I was browsing the net with Firefox.
> Once closed, CPU temps dropped to 56c MAX during the burn with the CPU running at 3.9GHz turbo.
> 
> I must say, I'm quite happy with the H100i in push/pull
> 
> Next up.... OVERCLOCK LAND! ....Oh Happy Happy Joy Joy!!!!


what is the temperature in your house??

because those are awful low temps even at idle??


----------



## Arm3nian

I've just realised I reversed the inlet and outlet on the supremacy... that might explain the splashing noises. Oh well, not going to redo my loop just for that.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I've just realised I reversed the inlet and outlet on the supremacy... that might explain the splashing noises. Oh well, not going to redo my loop just for that.


Actually, that's one thing worth going back to correct . . . .









Darlene


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> what is the temperature in your house??
> 
> because those are awful low temps even at idle??


ya something is weird there i have the same setup plus i have mine OC'd to 4.3ghz and idle is low 30's and load is mid 50's


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> what is the temperature in your house??
> 
> because those are awful low temps even at idle??


Keep in mind the CPU is idling at 1.2 - 1.5GHz right now, but room temperature is around 20c with the window cracked open just a hair.

This is a testament to the Air 540's excellent airflow capabilities. Ive never had a case that cools as well as this one does.
It's keeping my idle CPU temps at or slightly above parity with my room temperature.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Actually, that's one thing worth going back to correct . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Well the pump is going straight into the block so the flow is strong at that point. Temps are very good, and that is really the only thing that matters. There are other things I would change in a heartbeat, but for now this will do. Will redo the loop later.

Just the thought of getting the bp fittings over 1/2 3/4 tubing again is enough to not redo it. Plus I have no drain so I will most likely have to take off every single component.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> ya something is weird there i have the same setup plus i have mine OC'd to 4.3ghz and idle is low 30's and load is mid 50's


Same here...
If I disable Speed Step and run the CPU at 3.4 - 3.9GHz, my idle temps are 28-30c, with IBT stress tests peaking the CPU at around 56c
(Running Firefox tends to spike the temperature another 5-10c during stress testing).


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> ya something is weird there i have the same setup plus i have mine OC'd to 4.3ghz and idle is low 30's and load is mid 50's


Now this would be normal no way to cool the CPU below ambient temps using just air!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Keep in mind the CPU is idling at 1.2 - 1.5GHz right now, but room temperature is around 20c with the window cracked open just a hair.
> 
> This is a testament to the Air 540's excellent airflow capabilities. Ive never had a case that cools as well as this one does.
> It's keeping my idle CPU temps at or slightly above parity with my room temperature.


I am sorry but if the room temps are around 20 degrees give or take a degree no way you are getting idle temps below 20 like you are showing!!

it is impossible to cool below ambient temperature using just air. Need to find the correct temps because 8 degrees off is a lot...

also if the temps are going up when you use a program while the stress test is running then the stress test is not stressing the CPU as much as it can. Download prime 95 and torture test for a few hours that will load up the CPU and all threads 100%.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> what is the temperature in your house??
> 
> because those are awful low temps even at idle??


This...

Is this being cooled outside or something? I personally like to keep my home heated above 20C in the winter. I find little point in forcing unrealistic ambient temps when heat is not the limiting factor in Ivy Bridge-E. This isn't Haswell.


----------



## jamiee

Lol.... No I just don't have the heat on in this section of the condo. Makes for some great sleeping during the winter!

As for temps, I was just guessing... it could have (and probably was) closer to 15-17c inside when I took the screen capture, but that's just a guess.
It was chilly, but I wasn't frost bitten


----------



## jamiee

Ok, I just took a reading from the thermostat which is located in the room directly beside mine and is also located on the dividing wall between the two rooms.

The reading there is 73F = 22.78c

Here's a screenshot of Real Temp, taken less than a minute after: (4930K @ stock and @ idle)



So either the CPU is being cooled at pretty much ambient temperature (at idle), or Real Temp isn't being very accurate.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Ok, I just took a reading from the thermostat which is located in the room directly beside mine and is also located on the dividing wall between the two rooms.
> 
> The reading there is 73F = 22.78c
> 
> Here's a screenshot of Real Temp, taken less than a minute after: (4930K @ stock and @ idle)
> 
> 
> 
> So either the CPU is being cooled at pretty much ambient temperature (at idle), or Real Temp isn't being very accurate.


my bet would be 1 your tstat thermistor needs calibration or you have a heat generationg device near your tstat ( lamp/ mini fridge/ pc exhaust ) 2 your pc is near an exterior wall and it is colder there then @ the tstat

or lastly
3 you live in a black hole that wields all known laws of physics null and void and can cool your pc less then ambient !


----------



## jamiee

1. New tstat's were installed in our place about two moths ago and are calibrated.

2. PC is located near an exterior wall

3. Tstat is also located near an exterior wall (same wall actually)

4. No heat generating devices near the tstat (cloudy morning, so not even the rising sun)









5. I MUST LIVE IN A BLACK HOLE!









*6. None of the above...... The carbide Air 540 creates it's own weather patterns!!*


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> 1. New tstat's were installed in our place about two moths ago and are calibrated.
> 
> 2. PC is located near an exterior wall
> 
> 3. Tstat is also located near an exterior wall (same wall actually)
> 
> 4. No heat generating devices near the tstat (cloudy morning, so not even the rising sun)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5. I MUST LIVE IN A BLACK HOLE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *6. None of the above...... The carbide Air 540 creates it's own weather patterns!!*


I live in Edmonton, Alberta.

It's been -30c outside the past couple of days.

I know such idle temps are possible since I have them in my own rig.

But...I use AIDA64 as my "standard" monitoring app. Unfortunately, on the RIVBE, voltages listed are VID, not actual voltages, but that said, realtemp and AIDA64 are nearly identical in temps reported.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> 1. New tstat's were installed in our place about two moths ago and are calibrated.
> 
> 2. PC is located near an exterior wall
> 
> 3. Tstat is also located near an exterior wall (same wall actually)
> 
> 4. No heat generating devices near the tstat (cloudy morning, so not even the rising sun)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5. I MUST LIVE IN A BLACK HOLE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *6. None of the above...... The carbide Air 540 creates it's own weather patterns!!*


ill reach on to a limb and say your number 6 falls into #5


----------



## jamiee

*sigh*
Prepping the "old gal" for her next life as the family PC









.... "I'll miss you RIVE... but at least you'll still be close by"


----------



## VertKiller

Question about realtemp. I just read the version updates and it is updated for sandy but not Ivy. Would this make any difference or not on ivy readings.


----------



## eduncan911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Question about realtemp. I just read the version updates and it is updated for sandy but not Ivy. Would this make any difference or not on ivy readings.


I've been having thoughts about RealTeap. It shows much higher temps than the handheld and SpeedFan shows, as well as other programs. They said they calibrated it with a Fluke IR temp reader to make it as accurate as possible - but, Asus' own handheld device isn't accurate?

Because according to RealTime, I am really pushing my system hard with 1.28V at 4.5 Ghz for 75C (on a modified H80 with TEC waterchiller). Whereas the hand-held shows a nice 61C, which seems more accurate to me with that little VCore voltage and an H80 waterblock, regardless of the TEC waterchiller.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Question about realtemp. I just read the version updates and it is updated for sandy but not Ivy. Would this make any difference or not on ivy readings.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been having thoughts about RealTeap. It shows much higher temps than the handheld and SpeedFan shows, as well as other programs. They said they calibrated it with a Fluke IR temp reader to make it as accurate as possible - but, Asus' own handheld device isn't accurate?
> 
> Because according to RealTime, I am really pushing my system hard with 1.28V at 4.5 Ghz for 75C (on a modified H80 with TEC waterchiller). Whereas the hand-held shows a nice 61C, which seems more accurate to me with that little VCore voltage and an H80 waterblock, regardless of the TEC waterchiller.
Click to expand...

i could be wrong but i would be willing to bet the core temp on the oc panel shows a socket temp,

as well ir thermometers are pretty inaccurate, they need a flat black surface to accurately read temps, as well the glossier / brighter the color/surface the more inaccurate the reading is ( glossiness affects it more then color )

as for real temp, i personally never heard of it till today, but there should be no reason for them to need to calibrate it as the thermisters in the cpu are standardized, like any program it should be able to read it just fine


----------



## Arm3nian

My oc panel shows temperatures 10-15c less than what real temp shows.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> My oc panel shows temperatures 10-15c less than what real temp shows.


OC Panel shows socket temps, not CPU temps.


----------



## alancsalt

This is an old story. It is more about the way temps are "read" than anything else.

http://www.overclock.net/t/476469/the-truth-about-temperatures-and-voltages

If you read that you'll see that higher temps are more likely to be "accurate" than idle temps, because idle temps are not "measured" but inferred from a gradient. Even your higher CPU temperatures are inferred from "Distance to TJMax"....

Software temperature reading is not accurate. It would cost too much to have an actual accurate temperature sensor, and "near enough" is considered good enough by manufacturers...


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> Still in packaging...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> need more rageface


What shop did you order from and when did you place your order?

I thought newegg was not going to ship my board on Friday but they did. I didnt get an email until 3 am Saturday with my tracking.


----------



## skupples

This back plate mode is actually incredibly easy. Guide will be up soon.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> They are keyed, even small children can assemble them right.


You don't read much do you


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Looks like the mad rush for the board is over.

Those Tridents everyone are using look so nice, would look really good with matte black painted fins.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> This back plate mode is actually incredibly easy. Guide will be up soon.


do you have a build log if so give us a link?? I would like to follow it!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> do you have a build log if so give us a link?? I would like to follow it!!


It's the EKGA 900D log in his sig


----------



## LunaP

What's a good time to start a build log? I've seen some start way before and during and after they had all their parts. I've been recording pics so far of mine.

Also popped the front end off my TH10 and have it on the floor put my AX1200i box over the part that's out a bit to help it bend back in. Hopefully that helps since I don't have a bench.


----------



## kpoeticg

Like you said, some people wait til they have all their parts. Some just wait til they have their plan layed out. Others don't wait at all, just start a thread.
It's really up to u. I personally waited til i knew most of my plan was gonna work and i had like half of my WC gear

That's just because it's my first log/mod/loop tho. I didn't wanna bite off more than i could chew in front of a ton of people


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's the EKGA 900D log in his sig


thank you but hey be nice I just got up and did not sleep well last night was woke up 2 times because of work. So I am having hard time waking up on 3rd cup of coffee and hoping it happens soon!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, i thought i was being nice









I wasn't being sarcastic.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's the EKGA 900D log in his sig


errm. A noobs build log for EKGA 900D... The post with back plate stuff will be up shortly. About 90% there, just trying to figure out if I want to use TIM or FujiPoly between the Dynatron & the back plate.

(all due credit MehlstaubTheCat)



Also debating between copper & synthetic washers.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol, i thought i was being nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't being sarcastic.


you was just joking!!!! having hard time waking up!!! and lot to do today!!!!! and it turns out I was already subscribed to this. see what happens when you get old you get CRS!!!!!


----------



## Redshift 91

Uplay is pissing me off, it gave me a 60 minute ban because it refuses to activate the CODES THAT ARE IN MY OWNED PRODUCTS!!! I hate Ubisoft.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> you was just joking!!!! having hard time waking up!!! and lot to do today!!!!! and it turns out I was already subscribed to this. see what happens when you get old you get CRS!!!!!


----------



## skupples

FujiPoly is some AMAZING thermal pad though I TELL YOU HWHAT!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Uplay is pissing me off, it gave me a 60 minute ban because it refuses to activate the CODES THAT ARE IN MY OWNED PRODUCTS!!! I hate Ubisoft.


UPlay codes always work fine for me, but that was only after I figured out that you MUST put in the code exactly as shown, with all the dashes, letter case, don't mix up an l with a 1, etc.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> UPlay codes always work fine for me, but that was only after I figured out that you MUST put in the code exactly as shown, with all the dashes, letter case, don't mix up an l with a 1, etc.


After 8 logins, the games just appeared in my account, however, now it refuses to download because of the ban. I wasn't even entering the codes by hand, I was using copy and ctrl-v. Their client is a piece of crap, I wish it was just steam


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> After 8 logins, the games just appeared in my account, however, now it refuses to download because of the ban. I wasn't even entering the codes by hand, I was using copy and ctrl-v. Their client is a piece of crap, I wish it was just steam


Indeed, Uplay is a failed attempt @ god knows what. It's just so redundant, not to mention that they now have "social" rewards in SINGLE PLAYER GAMES. IE: Can't unlock certain items in AC9000 unless you have X number of friends on your ufriendslist. Speaking of which, we should all friend each other so that we can get said shiny items.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Indeed, Uplay is a failed attempt @ god knows what. It's just so redundant, not to mention that they now have "social" rewards in SINGLE PLAYER GAMES. IE: Can't unlock certain items in AC9000 unless you have X number of friends on your ufriendslist. Speaking of which, we should all friend each other so that we can get said shiny items.


You're free to send a request to me, Redshift_91 on uplay, redshift_91 steam.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yessir, all the threads are covered in corrosion, yet none inside the loop/fittings/blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @szeged
> 
> Already wiped most of it off, since the internals were clean I re-used most of the fittings. Here is one of them that was actually affected inside & out.


I almost wanna say that's normal, since threads usually get stripped to bare metal. If the water tested ok, and no corrosion was found on other components, I wouldn't worry too much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Gonna be repainting my tridentX top fins to black, makes the rive-be look too much like the original rive imo.


As much as I love this look:


I made my mind up for some Trident X and EK monarch water blocks. 370 total for a 16gb 4x4 kit 2400 MHz. Kit. I saw your review on newegg lol

I'll be giving away that goofy cooler though.


----------



## skupples

I'm using Red Line Water Wetter this time around, should help quite a bit since I didn't have any actual anti-corrosion in my loop last time. Seems I was only a short time off from doing damage to my water blocks. I should probably replace them, but since they are performing just as they were on day one it's not worth the 400$ @ this point.

moar names! Mine's same as OCN name.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm using Red Line Water Wetter this time around, should help quite a bit since I didn't have any actual anti-corrosion in my loop last time. Seems I was only a short time off from doing damage to my water blocks. I should probably replace them, but since they are performing just as they were on day one it's not worth the 400$ @ this point.
> moar names! Mine's same as OCN name.


Just use distilled water and a silver coil. No need for toxic chemicals in your loop.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Just use distilled water and a silver coil. No need for toxic chemicals in your loop.


Hasn't really worked out like that with my last loop. Kill coils do not fight corrosion, only bacteria. Corrosion is nickel plating's #1 enemy. Will only be using 5:100 ratio of the water wetter.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Indeed, Uplay is a failed attempt @ god knows what. It's just so redundant, not to mention that they now have "social" rewards in SINGLE PLAYER GAMES. IE: Can't unlock certain items in AC9000 unless you have X number of friends on your ufriendslist. Speaking of which, we should all friend each other so that we can get said shiny items.
> 
> 
> 
> You're free to send a request to me, Redshift_91 on uplay, redshift_91 steam.
Click to expand...

Steam Mega__Man

Origin JadziaTerh

Uplay MegaManVX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Just use distilled water and a silver coil. No need for toxic chemicals in your loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Hasn't really worked out like that with my last loop. Kill coils do not fight corrosion, only bacteria. Corrosion is nickel plating's #1 enemy. Will only be using 5:100 ratio of the water wetter.
Click to expand...


----------



## broken pixel

Are kill coils you buy made of silver? I made my own out of high grade silver.

Since i stopped using toxic coolant i have not experienced any muck or corrosion in my loops.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Are kill coils you buy made of silver? I made my own out of high grade silver.
> 
> Since i stopped using toxic coolant i have not experienced any muck or corrosion in my loops.


99.97 I believe. The good ones @ least.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Are kill coils you buy made of silver? I made my own out of high grade silver.
> 
> Since i stopped using toxic coolant i have not experienced any muck or corrosion in my loops.
> 
> 
> 
> 99.97 I believe. The good ones @ least.
Click to expand...

how long did you go without changing your water?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> how long did you go without changing your water?


Was changing it every 2-3 months, even though it passed all water tests with flying colors. This is where the conundrum comes into play. PH - perfect, Alkalinity perfect, Chlorine, non existent,


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> how long did you go without changing your water?
> 
> 
> 
> Was changing it every 2-3 months, even though it passed all water tests with flying colors. This is where the conundrum comes into play. PH - perfect, Alkalinity perfect, Chlorine, non existent,
Click to expand...

well you are not the only person i have heard with flaking issues esp that have used a silver coil and bitspower.

i would not be too worried. with that said in your pics i saw nothing acid related. just flaking nickle plating


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well you are not the only person i have heard with flaking issues esp that have used a silver coil and bitspower.
> 
> i would not be too worried. with that said in your pics i saw nothing acid related. just flaking nickle plating


None of the pictures I linked were nickel, just the BP black powder coating. The main thing that worried me was the corrosion/rust on copper rad plugs.



hard to see kinda, white powder & rust. Just my blocks are nickel plated. EK supremacy cpu & FC-Titan plates.


----------



## kpoeticg

Nickel flaking in one block can cause corrosion across your loop
Or that's how i've always understood it at least.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What's a good time to start a build log? I've seen some start way before and during and after they had all their parts. I've been recording pics so far of mine.
> 
> Also popped the front end off my TH10 and have it on the floor put my AX1200i box over the part that's out a bit to help it bend back in. Hopefully that helps since I don't have a bench.


same here been getting pics as ive been building. I started my log thou haven't updated it since i put in the last stuff I got mabye ill do that tonight


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Nickel flaking in one block can cause corrosion across your loop
> Or that's how i've always understood it at least.


+ to my knowledge all bitspower fittings are nickel plated dont have the best knowledge of bitspower so i could be wrong


----------



## kpoeticg

No they're not all Nickel. Alot are painted Brass

If you click on a color series on the BP website & click on a fitting, it'll tell u what metal that series is made of

The Matte Black's are Brass for instance


----------



## skupples

bleh, it's done.




The recommendation of 50mm screws was just a bit off, so I had to use 4 1mm synthetic washers. Not a big deal. Assembly was a pain in the ass. XD

uhhhh.... Block is "backwards" need to remember that when i'm looping.

Poetic, that makes perfect sense. One block starts to go, it's going to affect the rest. If this week is profitable I may have to splurge on all new copper blocks. Even though I have one BRANDSPANKING new Titan block. I can probably get a good bit of money back out of all three.


----------



## kpoeticg

Nice job!

How does it sound, and what kinda temp increases are u expecting from it?

*decreases


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice job!
> 
> How does it sound, and what kinda temp increases are u expecting from it?


I had it running as a cpu cooler for a few days, under 60% it's barely audible, & that was while sitting next to my face out in the open. Not sure what to expect yet.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice job!
> 
> How does it sound, and what kinda temp increases are u expecting from it?


Well I personally hope he gets Temp decreases other wise a lot of work for nothing in my Opinion!!! LOL





















Could not stop myself, not that I tried very hard but still.


----------



## kpoeticg

HAHAHA
Oops. Typo


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Well I personally hope he gets Temp decreases other wise a lot of work for nothing in my Opinion!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could not stop myself, not that I tried very hard but still.


I'm not really expecting more then 2-3 off of the core, i'm more expecting to cool the EXTREMELY HOT WITH SB-E backplate...







Those mosfet looking things on the back get hotter than hell when OC'ing SB-E. cooling them should result in a bit more stability.


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## Mega Man

congrats !!!!


----------



## skupples

now YOU PEOPLE got me looking @ new blocks. Stuff adds up quick when shopping for 3x GPU's. + thanks to our niche not being a niche any more all these things are perma-sold out.

































































































































forgot to put the 2011 jet plate in.


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## skupples

so do I tear it all down to put in the 2011 jet plate? Or do I say F-it. It's only half a needle of CLU down the drain... /shrug guess i'll do it tomorrow, assuming I can find the plate.


----------



## kpoeticg

I would if i were in your shoes.

You went through all that trouble to mod that Dynatron onto the backplate. Might as well have the best cooling possible with it...


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> bleh, it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recommendation of 50mm screws was just a bit off, so I had to use 4 1mm synthetic washers. Not a big deal. Assembly was a pain in the ass. XD
> 
> uhhhh.... Block is "backwards" need to remember that when i'm looping.
> 
> Poetic, that makes perfect sense. One block starts to go, it's going to affect the rest. If this week is profitable I may have to splurge on all new copper blocks. Even though I have one BRANDSPANKING new Titan block. I can probably get a good bit of money back out of all three.


Skupples my friend,

For further optimization again take a piece of thermal pad.
This pad do still below the CPU socket holder.
The CPU socket holder has contact at four points to the CPU, therefore it is also very warm.
The heat also goes to the motherboard and can then be removed from the backplate.
Just a small tip from me.

But the rest I like very much.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Skupples my friend,
> 
> For further optimization again take a piece of thermal pad.
> This pad do still below the CPU socket holder.
> The CPU socket holder has contact at four points to the CPU, therefore it is also very warm.
> The heat also goes to the motherboard and can then be removed from the backplate.
> Just a small tip from me.
> 
> But the rest I like very much.


you know, I was thinking about that when I had the clamps off. Wouldn't be hard to do either, as the seal between the dynatron & the LGA plate wouldn't have to be broken. Guess I might as well do that too while I have the Dynatron off. Good thing I purchased a FULL sheet of FujiPoly 30x20cm. Cutting the pad to fit would be the biggest PITA with how flimsy the FujiPoly is. May have to stick it in the refrigerator tonight.


----------



## bastian

Got my Black setup on Friday.

3930k running @ 45x100 with Turbo ON. Was previously running a Rampage Formula IV. I have found the Black needed a lot more tweaking with settings (mostly VTT & VCCSA , most likely due to it being more optimized for Ivy E.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/wozh.png/


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What's a good time to start a build log? I've seen some start way before and during and after they had all their parts. I've been recording pics so far of mine.
> 
> Also popped the front end off my TH10 and have it on the floor put my AX1200i box over the part that's out a bit to help it bend back in. Hopefully that helps since I don't have a bench.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> i always put my build logs up early to build interest so when everything arrives lots of people can enjoy it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost wanna say that's normal, since threads usually get stripped to bare metal. If the water tested ok, and no corrosion was found on other components, I wouldn't worry too much.
> As much as I love this look:
> 
> 
> I made my mind up for some Trident X and EK monarch water blocks. 370 total for a 16gb 4x4 kit 2400 MHz. Kit. I saw your review on newegg lol
> 
> I'll be giving away that goofy cooler though.


yeah that little air cooler gskill included with that kit is like.....just keep it and take $20 off the price please. useless lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah that little air cooler gskill included with that kit is like.....just keep it and take $20 off the price please. useless lol.


reminds me of the OC panel & game's that have been bundled with ROG boards lately. I'll keep the 60$ YOU KEEP THE CRAP.


----------



## szeged

asus is selling the OC panel alone for $99 rofl


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> asus is selling the OC panel alone for $99 rofl


Looks like i'll be listing a BNIB one for 50$ on ebay tomorroW!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Looks like i'll be listing a BNIB one for 50$ on ebay tomorroW!


im gonna try to get one to fit into one of the hotswap bays in the 900D, if i cant make it fit then ebay here i come lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im gonna try to get one to fit into one of the hotswap bays in the 900D, if i cant make it fit then ebay here i come lol.


I don't have the time, nor do I really feel like teaching my self how to make the cable long enough where it would be useful to me. It's current length means I would have to stand next to my tower when messing with it, thus useless.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't have the time, nor do I really feel like teaching my self how to make the cable long enough where it would be useful to me. It's current length means I would have to stand next to my tower when messing with it, thus useless.


mobo arrives tomorrow, ill see if i can find a way to have it in the case where you can just reach over and hit it lol


----------



## skupples

off topic: I upgraded the house security cameras thanks to one of the few good newegg cyber monday deals. It's freaking me the hell out. It has a Motion detector symbol on the screen, one of them constantly detects motion @ night, even when the room is dead still. I think my house is haunted.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> off topic: I upgraded the house security cameras thanks to one of the few good newegg cyber monday deals. It's freaking me the hell out. It has a Motion detector symbol on the screen, one of them constantly detects motion @ night, even when the room is dead still. I think my house is haunted.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*


That's actually pretty damned freaky. Is that from STALKER?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's actually pretty damned freaky. Is that from STALKER?


some dude went out to a hunters deer cam at night and took out the chip inside it and photoshopped that in, was a news story here lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> some dude went out to a hunters deer cam at night and took out the chip inside it and photoshopped that in, was a news story here lol.


I knew it looked familiar, probably got some play here as well & that's why I feel like iv'e seen it before. The goober is definitely cut/themed after some horror game or another.


----------



## zucciniknife

Exactly how useless is the oc panel?


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> Exactly how useless is the oc panel?


Super Useless just more bling I guess I don't even know where mine is..........i'd rather have the usb header for other things


----------



## zucciniknife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Super Useless just more bling I guess I don't even know where mine is..........i'd rather have the usb header for other things


Hmm... I guess I'll have to put it up for $60 on ebay.

Good news! It finally shipped!

It has 3 day shipping so it should be here soon.


----------



## skupples

inc: flood of OC panels on Ebay!!! Should all agree on a price.


----------



## zucciniknife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> inc: flood of OC panels on Ebay!!! Should all agree on a price.


Might as well artificially rig the market. Say 310% of normal price?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> Might as well artificially rig the market. Say 310% of normal price?


lol, this isn't BTC!!!!

Asus is selling them for 99$, so 60 is probably a "quick sale"


----------



## zucciniknife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> lol, this isn't BTC!!!!
> 
> Asus is selling them for 99$, so 60 is probably a "quick sale"


Yeah that's probably what i'll be pricing at. Going to do no returns though so I don't get screwed over


----------



## maxxx.ph

I guess ASUS should have separated the OC Panel totally (as an optional accessory). But I use it since the board is on a bench, not inside a case which will be like this for a while.


----------



## szeged

Asus would have charged $499 with or without the OC panel, so i guess its a good thing they included it because now we can sell it off and make back some of our money


----------



## Redshift 91

I just threw it into the 5.25 bay because the 90 degree mobo tray in the ft02 makes the cable ridiculously long. Other than that and an open bench, the oc panel's about as useful as a bag of poo and with no ignition source.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> Exactly how useless is the oc panel?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Super Useless just more bling I guess I don't even know where mine is..........i'd rather have the usb header for other things


People don't really like it because the cable is short and is bulky. I'm new to overclocking, so I will definitely be playing with it. Is a cool concept, but once I get my Oveverclocking profiles dialed in. It's going back on the box and probably end up for sale. If I really like it and find it useful, I'll just keep it. I often run benchmarks so having that can help while benching. That's just me if you ask TTL, he'll tell you is absolute junk. So, I will definitely try it first before condemning it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> im gonna try to get one to fit into one of the hotswap bays in the 900D, if i cant make it fit then ebay here i come lol.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the time, nor do I really feel like teaching my self how to make the cable long enough where it would be useful to me. It's current length means I would have to stand next to my tower when messing with it, thus useless.
Click to expand...

1 is just usb2.0- the other... we will see tomorrow.i like the options of more fans ! ( not that it will matter when i get my AQ6 but not a bad thing )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> off topic: I upgraded the house security cameras thanks to one of the few good newegg cyber monday deals. It's freaking me the hell out. It has a Motion detector symbol on the screen, one of them constantly detects motion @ night, even when the room is dead still. I think my house is haunted.
Click to expand...

HAHAHA
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> Exactly how useless is the oc panel?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I just threw it into the 5.25 bay because the 90 degree mobo tray in the ft02 makes the cable ridiculously long. Other than that and an open bench, the oc panel's about as useful as a bag of poo and with no ignition source.


yep l2n


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the VGA Hotwire contacts are on the OC Panel this time. That makes it a little more useful depending on your GPU setup.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Anyone notice that if you set like the LLC and some other settings to whatever else but auto that your overclock will crash? seems most settings on the black edition are left on auto/defaults.


----------



## bastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> Anyone notice that if you set like the LLC and some other settings to whatever else but auto that your overclock will crash? seems most settings on the black edition are left on auto/defaults.


I have no problems with LLC working correctly. However, with my 3930k, if I left the VTT and VCCSA on Auto, any overclock between 40x100 - 45x100 would result in my system restarting itself once in Windows. This was because the Auto voltages were not moving up to match my new overclock. Not sure if this is because I am using SB-E and not IB-E. The Black may be more targeted towards IB-E with Auto settings.

Once I manually did those voltages I was able to make my 45x100 overclock stable.

Question to the board: Is there any real advantage to using both the 8 pin and 4 pin CPU connections? Right now I am just using the 8 pin.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> Anyone notice that if you set like the LLC and some other settings to whatever else but auto that your overclock will crash? seems most settings on the black edition are left on auto/defaults.
> 
> 
> 
> I have no problems with LLC working correctly. However, with my 3930k, if I left the VTT and VCCSA on Auto, any overclock between 40x100 - 45x100 would result in my system restarting itself once in Windows. This was because the Auto voltages were not moving up to match my new overclock. Not sure if this is because I am using SB-E and not IB-E. The Black may be more targeted towards IB-E.
> 
> Once I manually did those voltages I was able to make my 45x100 overclock stable.
> 
> Question the the board: Is there any real advantage to using both the 8 pin and 4 pin CPU connections? Right now I am just using the 8 pin.
Click to expand...

that depends on your oc, all the 4 pin does is give the board someplace to pull more power from


----------



## bastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that depends on your oc, all the 4 pin does is give the board someplace to pull more power from


Don't seem to have any problem with not enough juice at 45x100, although I haven't really tried to push it past that.
It would seem to me the additional 4pin would not help much, as overclocks are usually limited to the chip itself and voltages needed.


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Is anyone putting this in a Merlin ST10 case?


----------



## skupples

It'd about extra stability more than straight up extra power.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> Exactly how useless is the oc panel?


Totally useless for 99% of people who will buy this board.

At least the bundled game has been good.


----------



## broken pixel

On the delivery truck for delivery today. Woohoo!


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that depends on your oc, all the 4 pin does is give the board someplace to pull more power from


I plugged in both.
Not that I think the extra 4-pin is needed for most people, but I figured what the heck anyway!

On my RIVE I only plugged in the 8-pin connector and it's run just fine that way.


----------



## JimmyWild

I'm finally official!







Sorry about cell phone quality, but you get the idea.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> I'm finally official!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about cell phone quality, but you get the idea.


grats! waiting on fedex to get here /tapsfoot.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

I mean on my other rig using a rive and 33 I could tweak a bunch of settings, but using the black edition with an ivy bridge if I use anything other than auto system will crash so yeah I don't get it really.

The llc and Cpu power has to be on auto or nada.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## szeged

well my board arrived, was in the middle of cleaning a bit in preparation of the new build when the fedex man started honking


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> I mean on my other rig using a rive and 3930k I could tweak a bunch of settings, but using the black edition with an ivy bridge if I use anything other than auto system will crash so yeah I don't get it really.
> 
> The llc and Cpu power has to be on auto or system will crash at the windows loading screen.


----------



## broken pixel

Can someone post a pic of the socket pins pls. Lools like there are some missing pins? I dont remeber any missinv on my RIVE.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Can someone post a pic of the socket pins pls. Lools like there are some missing pins? I dont remeber any missinv on my RIVE.


This may be in preparation for lga 2011-3. Leme see if I have a good pick of my socket.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> This may be in preparation for lga 2011-3. Leme see if I have a good pick of my socket.




kind of a bad picture, but I don't see the same missing pattern. I'll double check when I have it torn down here in just a bit.


----------



## szeged

Just checked my pins, none missing, none bent, i think you should contact asus about an rma for those missing pins broken pixel, looks like a few are gone lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Just checked my pins, none missing, none bent, i think you should contact asus about an rma for those missing pins broken pixel, looks like a few are gone lol.


The weird thing is they are in the exact same spot on either side of the socket.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The weird thing is they are in the exact same spot on either side of the socket.


yeah i saw that, thats the really weird thing lol.

i would still contact asus with pictures of the problem.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> redownloading steam library, only 3 years remaining...










Yup, I just did that this weekend. Know what you mean.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> redownloading steam library, only 3 years remaining...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, I just did that this weekend. Know what you mean.


lol. I've had to do that twice in the last couple months, and soon as I get this build done, yet again.

How about the news today that the US & UK have been spying on online gaming?
Quote:


> World of Spycraft: NSA and CIA Spied in Online Games
> 
> Not limiting their activities to the earthly realm, American and British spies have infiltrated the fantasy worlds of World of Warcraft and Second Life, conducting surveillance and scooping up data in the online games played by millions of people across the globe, according to newly disclosed classified documents...


Whaaaa ?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol. I've had to do that twice in the last couple months, and soon as I get this build done, yet again.
> 
> How about the news today that the NSA & UK have been spying on online gaming?
> Whaaaa ?


This surprises you? They also do 'to catch a predator" type stuff in MMO's.

I have had guild members hunted down & arrested for making illicit deals through the game, & other stuff.


----------



## skupples

@broken pixel you have a completely different socket pin lay out design than i do.




This makes it even more suspicious, what the hell socket did you get? Why are they using different model types? Very strange. I look forward to Asus response.


----------



## szeged

now thats interesting, two completely different sockets on the same board lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> now thats interesting, two completely different sockets on the same board lol.


The plot thickens. I think my 2011-3 theory may actually hold some credence.

His board isn't 'missing" pins though, the pin layout is exactly the same.

This makes me think it's some sort of newer socket, designed to be multi-compatible.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I don't see what's different about them. lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I don't see what's different about them. lol


Look closer. The perimeter is different. Look @ the cracks down the middle. Mine has big "Cracks" his is all a solid piece w/ "missing" pins.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I don't see what's different about them. lol


----------



## jamiee

Pin grids do indeed have some differences.... VERY interesting


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

I had the same with my old MSI Bigbang, then i have changed the mobo to the RIVE and wondering why the socket is different.
But it works







dont worry about it.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I don't see what's different about them. lol


Look at these keyings at left and right. One socket is symmetric, the other isn't.


----------



## IT Diva

My CPU got here today, so just looking at mt socket, and it's the same as skups.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Just checked my pins, none missing, none bent, i think you should contact asus about an rma for those missing pins broken pixel, looks like a few are gone lol.
> 
> 
> 
> The weird thing is they are in the exact same spot on either side of the socket.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Can someone post a pic of the socket pins pls. Lools like there are some missing pins? I dont remeber any missinv on my RIVE.


ill take a big pic when i get it 18megapixels should do it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> This may be in preparation for lga 2011-3. Leme see if I have a good pick of my socket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kind of a bad picture, but I don't see the same missing pattern. I'll double check when I have it torn down here in just a bit.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @broken pixel you have a completely different socket pin lay out design than i do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This makes it even more suspicious, what the hell socket did you get? Why are they using different model types? Very strange. I look forward to Asus response.


nah asus probably has several venders for the same parts. they dont all have to be the same just be able to house the correct pins in the same spot. or their normal supplier could of run out, ect

but i dont think he is missing anything on a plus note within 3 hours i should hav emy board in hand, he normally comes @ 2, was hoping he would today... but that was ~ 1.5 hours ago

EDIT WOOOOT IT IS [email protected]!!!! PICS SOON TO FOLLOW


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> I'm finally official!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about cell phone quality, but you get the idea.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> well my board arrived, was in the middle of cleaning a bit in preparation of the new build when the fedex man started honking
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats guys! Hope it was worth the wait! You were already added back during pre order so no worries! Hope to hear good OC reportings!


----------



## broken pixel

Well im in my BIOS and yes Raja it was another defunk RIVE, hahaha.

I will post about the socket on the ROG forums later time to see what this mobo can do.

Im hoping I can do lower voltages on my 3930k. With my RIVE it was stable 4.7GHz @ 1.328v 2133MHz VTT, VCCSA @ 1.10v

Add me to the club please if I have not been added already, thanks.

My computer table.


----------



## JimmyWild

Thanks LunaP and congrats szeged! I'm ready to get home and start building. After 3 months, since first purchase, I'm ready to make some progress!


----------



## skupples

something tells me it's time for new blocks.

GPU blocks appear to be clean, but this one block going kurplunk means that they are likely compromised.

btw, this was w/ just distilled & silver. Which I found out later EK highly advises against using silver with nickel.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, here's mine:





I guess mine looks to be like Skupps?


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> btw, this was w/ just distilled & silver. Which I found out later EK highly advises against using silver with nickel.


Hmm so what should be used with distilled water then?

EDIT: Cause I was/am going with distilled water, silver, and EK blocks. Well I'm using the Alphacool stuff (link) but still.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Hmm so what should be used with distilled water then?


ive always used a silver coil and all my blocks are nickle, 0 problems so far i guess this is just one of those " your results may vary" situations lol.


----------



## skupples

bloody hell. Of course, EK gpu blocks are all on back order everwhere for Titan. I'm thoroughly pissed.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> bloody hell. Of course, EK gpu blocks are all on back order everwhere for Titan. I'm thoroughly pissed.


http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=EK+titan+waterblock&_sacat=0&_from=R40


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Hmm so what should be used with distilled water then?
> 
> EDIT: Cause I was/am going with distilled water, silver, and EK blocks. Well I'm using the Alphacool stuff (link) but still.


use some sort of anti-corrosive. Silver can/will destroy nickel if temps get high enough in the loop. This is something i learned after the fact.

ohhh FCPU has copper acetal shorties!


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> use some sort of anti-corrosive. Silver can/will destroy nickel if temps get high enough in the loop. This is something i learned after the fact.


Ok, so I found this. EK link

Has a link to a pdf with a lot of test results in it. Going to review that.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Ok, so I found this. EK link
> 
> Has a link to a pdf with a lot of test results in it. Going to review that.


Good stuff, wish that would of been up when I bought these blocks for ever ago. I'm going to order 3 of these copper/acetal short boys & clean CSQ full copper block, & hope that the OCN EK rep will eventually help me out.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> World of Spycraft: NSA and CIA Spied in Online Games
> 
> Not limiting their activities to the earthly realm, American and British spies have infiltrated the fantasy worlds of World of Warcraft and Second Life, conducting surveillance and scooping up data in the online games played by millions of people across the globe, according to newly disclosed classified documents...


Of course they've got to stop people from terrorising second life, the CIA caught wind of a terrorist plot to hack illegal assult rifles into the city center. It turns out 10 years ago someone playing FSX crashed 2 planes into buildings, and thus the NSA was founded. Fortunately the NSA was there to save the second lifers from the Axis of Evil, and log a lot of second life pillow talk.... Or something like that.


----------



## IT Diva

. . . . . Yeeeeee Haaaaaaaa . . . .























Looks like all my new main parts are fit for purpose,

At least they all work and all 8 DIMM slots work fine.

I mounted everything up in my ghetto tech station with a basic GPU for testing and it booted and went to bios right off.

Now the fun can begin,

Darlene


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . . . . . Yeeeeee Haaaaaaaa . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like all my new main parts are fit for purpose,
> 
> At least they all work and all 8 DIMM slots work fine.
> 
> I mounted everything up in my ghetto tech station with a basic GPU for testing and it booted and went to bios right off.
> 
> Now the fun can begin,
> 
> Darlene


Very Cool!


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

Finally purchased my board.
I first purchased Ripjaws Z 2133 that is 1.65v and then ripjaws x 1600 1.5v and had this conversation with intel;

Aj what voltage memory is compatible with the 4820k processor
Alberto I'll be more than glad to assist you with that
Alberto 1.5
Alberto V
Alberto DDR3-1333/1600/1866
Aj I see many people running 1.65v will that damage the cpu or void warranty? for this reason I have purchased 1.5v
Alberto In this case the processor is unlocked
Alberto So you have the option of increasing the voltage
Alberto Like some customers do
Alberto You have the option to do that
Alberto But we don't know for sure
Alberto At which point the increasing of the voltage will be risky
Alberto Basically the way to find that out
Alberto Is to try it that, we don't know for sure
Alberto If it is going to damage the PC
Alberto Are you there?
Aj yes
Aj sorry
Aj I was just wondering if i did upgrade to ddr3-2400 which runs at 1.65 if that would decrease the lifespan or void warranty.
Alberto Yes, it might decrease the lifespan of it
Alberto And also it will avoid the warranty as well
Alberto Warranty doesn't cover overclocking
Alberto case number: 5965778
Aj Ok, thank you. its a minor gain anyway the 16gb of 1600 1.5v should be sufficient enough
Alberto Correct You are welcome....

It seems they make a case number if you ask suspicious questions....
anyway if i bought this board the warranty for the processor will be voided eventually.... although I dont want my processor to die after 6 months... ( I dont believe the risk is that high)

*so now I am wondering if i should throw the z or x in and which one to return...*
I should get my parts wednesday and my board thursday from newegg...
current list
case:540 air
processor:4820k
Ram: 16gb (4x4) ripjaws z or x 2133 vs 1600
psu: sp850
gpu: evga 760 sc acx
mobo: riv-be








2x sp120
SSD GS128 (will be using my old WD640 and 1.5TB external)
seidon 240m

Im new to overclocking, this is my second build. All purchased for damn close near to 2k... took me 3 weeks of FT work to save up that much (newly graduated lab scientists do not make that much) so this is my version of a budget build. Will post pics when all the parts are in.


----------



## szeged

get the higher ones and spend $25 on the intel protection plan lol.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> something tells me it's time for new blocks.
> 
> GPU blocks appear to be clean, but this one block going kurplunk means that they are likely compromised.
> 
> btw, this was w/ just distilled & silver. Which I found out later EK highly advises against using silver with nickel.


yea :/ it can but tbh your block looks fine that looks like plastisizer to me the discoloration is pretty normal too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> btw, this was w/ just distilled & silver. Which I found out later EK highly advises against using silver with nickel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm so what should be used with distilled water then?
> 
> EDIT: Cause I was/am going with distilled water, silver, and EK blocks. Well I'm using the Alphacool stuff (link) but still.
Click to expand...

choices are premixed ( usually ethylene glycol, some are propylene based {swiftechs coolant #2 the blue one } ) iandh deadwater or PTnuke ( recommend using the blue one not the clear { bleach based } both are biocides and dirt cheap 1 $5 bottle = years of use ! 1 drop per liter water )

congrats it diva !

mine is the same as broken pixel ill post pics later tonight... unless i pass out i am beat ! going to try to pick up a second rad and res tonight so i can set up this loop, res will just be a temp fix till i can get a FQ res !


----------



## broken pixel

Man im getting random reboots no BSOD just reboots all by its self while just browsing. I also notice AIDA64 does not report voltages from my 3930k anymore? I am using the same sets I used when I had my RIVE.

CPU PLL Termination and all these other PLL settings are new to me so I leave them on auto. I know this board is optimized for the newer intel cpus.

Anyone else with a 3930k @ 4.7 want to share some settings?


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . . . . . Yeeeeee Haaaaaaaa . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like all my new main parts are fit for purpose,
> 
> At least they all work and all 8 DIMM slots work fine.
> 
> I mounted everything up in my ghetto tech station with a basic GPU for testing and it booted and went to bios right off.
> 
> Now the fun can begin,
> 
> Darlene


Congratulations


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> yea :/ it can but tbh your block looks fine that looks like plastisizer to me the discoloration is pretty normal too
> choices are premixed ( usually ethylene glycol, some are propylene based {swiftechs coolant #2 the blue one } ) iandh deadwater or PTnuke ( recommend using the blue one not the clear { bleach based } both are biocides and dirt cheap 1 $5 bottle = years of use ! 1 drop per liter water )
> 
> congrats it diva !
> 
> mine is the same as broken pixel ill post pics later tonight... unless i pass out i am beat ! going to try to pick up a second rad and res tonight so i can set up this loop, res will just be a temp fix till i can get a FQ res !


Was using Plastisizer free tubing, or so they claim. I gave them a pretty damned good scrub with the tooth brush to get all of the gunk out, the nickel is gone, you can see straight up copper. Anyways, ordered brand new blocks. 3x copper/acetal short boys, & clean CSQ all copper CPU block. Should be here wednesday/thursday. Also, forwarded pictures to the OCN EK rep, he seems to think EKWB will send me new ones if I go through the claims process. So that could be nice, if they accept the claim. Sounds like they are still studying the affects of corrosion/flaking/pitting on their nickel.

DeadWater is copper sulfate, which is pretty redundant if you have enough radiators.

The socket thing: They are different manufacturer's is all.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Man im getting random reboots no BSOD just reboots all by its self while just browsing. I also notice AIDA64 does not report voltages from my 3930k anymore? I am using the same sets I used when I had my RIVE.
> 
> CPU PLL Termination and all these other PLL settings are new to me so I leave them on auto. I know this board is optimized for the newer intel cpus.
> 
> Anyone else with a 3930k @ 4.7 want to share some settings?


i would not worry too much ! with it being a new board it probably needs an update

i bet it will come quick one thing hwinfo does well is updates, you may try the beta as it may already be in the beta !


----------



## broken pixel

The random reboots are what really bothering me. It jsut did it again. I will use default clocks and test.


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> choices are premixed ( usually ethylene glycol, some are propylene based {swiftechs coolant #2 the blue one } ) iandh deadwater or PTnuke ( recommend using the blue one not the clear { bleach based } both are biocides and dirt cheap 1 $5 bottle = years of use ! 1 drop per liter water )


I ordered some of the PTnuke (blue) as i've been reading more and more about this. Keep reading contradicting results. Some say Nickel/Copper/Silver is ok, but some say it's not. I'm happy to go without the Silver, so whatever. The last part now is Nickel/Copper. Is that going to cause corrosion? Seems like the verdict is really that it's only an issue if the Nickel plating flakes off. Not that it's corrosion, but that is the concern in a Nickel/Copper loop. *shrug*


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> I ordered some of the PTnuke (blue) as i've been reading more and more about this. Keep reading contradicting results. Some say Nickel/Copper/Silver is ok, but some say it's not. I'm happy to go without the Silver, so whatever. The last part now is Nickel/Copper. Is that going to cause corrosion? Seems like the verdict is really that it's only an issue if the Nickel plating flakes off. Not that it's corrosion, but that is the concern in a Nickel/Copper loop. *shrug*


I would personally go with coolant made by EK for their nickel blocks after my experience. Or make your own with glycol, distilled, & red line water wetter.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> choices are premixed ( usually ethylene glycol, some are propylene based {swiftechs coolant #2 the blue one } ) iandh deadwater or PTnuke ( recommend using the blue one not the clear { bleach based } both are biocides and dirt cheap 1 $5 bottle = years of use ! 1 drop per liter water )
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered some of the PTnuke (blue) as i've been reading more and more about this. Keep reading contradicting results. Some say Nickel/Copper/Silver is ok, but some say it's not. I'm happy to go without the Silver, so whatever. The last part now is Nickel/Copper. Is that going to cause corrosion? Seems like the verdict is really that it's only an issue if the Nickel plating flakes off. Not that it's corrosion, but that is the concern in a Nickel/Copper loop. *shrug*
Click to expand...

it can, ANY mixed metals can, even brass and copper, if you have not read it here is a great read on galvanic corrosion

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
i think the only exception is gold, which i have heard does not corrode. but i just dont believe that till i see it and with the price of gold, i doubt i will ever make a full set of blocks out of them ( sadly it is a great thermal conductor)

also to note if you see on the chart chrome, that is why i LOVE swiftech, as they use real chrome and not nickel-chrome plating

i would also like to add this is THE MOST SEXAY board i have ever laid my eyes on ! just beautiful


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The only problem with silver in a loop is if the nickel plating was poor quality / defective, like EK had some fairly major problems with in the past, and it's questionable whether silver ever had anything to do with it despite EK's findings, or if you have silver in direct contact with copper. Silver in contact with copper can cause a known type of corrosion called "red plague", but just having a silver kill coil in a loop with copper blocks in another part of a loop isn't going to cause that. If it would the watercooling forums here and elsewhere would be filled with posts complaining about it.

I much prefer PT_Nuke-PHN (Benzalkonium chloride - the clear one) as opposed to PT_Nuke (copper sulfate - the blue one). Nuke-PHN is made for loops running just distilled plus Nuke-PHN. PT_Nuke is made for loops that may also contain dyes/coolants/etc.

Here's Petra's (of "Petra's Tech" the developer of PT_Nuke) explanation of the differences:
Quote:


> A simple explanation:
> 
> The blue PT Nuke utilizes copper sulfate as its active ingredient. Now, the copper sulfate solution is somewhat acidic and can lower the pH of a poorly buffered coolant solution. As such, it is intended for use with water cooling systems that are also employing other coolant additives (like Pentosin and such). You can use it with straight distilled but it's not something that I usually recommend to people. If one were to use too much of the regular PT Nuke in a system containing both copper and aluminum parts, it's possible that the coolant's pH could be lowered outside the effective range of whatever anticorrosive you're using... which could lead to accelerated corrosion of the aluminum.
> 
> The clear PT Nuke -PHN utilizes benzalkonium chloride as its active ingredient--a chemical that's used commonly in disinfectant pads, hospital sterilization solutions, and [in very low concentrations] as a preservative. This solution does not have an impact on coolant pH but is very easily neutralized by other chemicals. As a result, the PT Nuke -PHN is what I primarily recommend for those using straight distilled water as a coolant.
> 
> Of course, another alternative would be to add a piece of 99.9% pure silver to your reservoir.


----------



## kpoeticg

I coulda sworn Copper & Brass didn't react with each other. EK has a gold plated block too.

Does XSPC use Nickel Chrome?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The only problem with silver in a loop is if the nickel plating was poor quality / defective, like EK had some fairly major problems with in the past, and it's questionable whether silver ever had anything to do with it despite EK's findings, or if you have silver in direct contact with copper. Silver in contact with copper can cause a known type of corrosion called "red plague", but just having a silver kill coil in a loop with copper blocks in another part of a loop isn't going to cause that. If it would the watercooling forums here and elsewhere would be filled with posts complaining about it.
> 
> I much prefer PT_Nuke-PHN (Benzalkonium chloride - the clear one) as opposed to PT_Nuke (copper sulfate - the blue one). Nuke-PHN is made for loops running just distilled plus Nuke-PHN. PT_Nuke is made for loops that may also contain dyes/coolants/etc.
> 
> Here's Petra's (of "Petra's Tech" the developer of PT_Nuke) explanation of the differences:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A simple explanation:
> 
> The blue PT Nuke utilizes copper sulfate as its active ingredient. Now, the copper sulfate solution is somewhat acidic and can lower the pH of a poorly buffered coolant solution. As such, it is intended for use with water cooling systems that are also employing other coolant additives (like Pentosin and such). You can use it with straight distilled but it's not something that I usually recommend to people. If one were to use too much of the regular PT Nuke in a system containing both copper and aluminum parts, it's possible that the coolant's pH could be lowered outside the effective range of whatever anticorrosive you're using... which could lead to accelerated corrosion of the aluminum.
> 
> The clear PT Nuke -PHN utilizes benzalkonium chloride as its active ingredient--a chemical that's used commonly in disinfectant pads, hospital sterilization solutions, and [in very low concentrations] as a preservative. This solution does not have an impact on coolant pH but is very easily neutralized by other chemicals. As a result, the PT Nuke -PHN is what I primarily recommend for those using straight distilled water as a coolant.
> 
> Of course, another alternative would be to add a piece of 99.9% pure silver to your reservoir.
Click to expand...

and that also explains why i highly recommend against using it, i would take slightly acidic over bleach anyday. bleach even in small amounts eats rubber. and yes it is an extremely small amount, but still it will shorten the lifespan of your gaskets, which is something i find too much of a risk for me to do,


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and that also explains why i highly recommend against using it, i would take slightly acidic over bleach anyday. bleach even in small amounts eats rubber. and yes it is an extremely small amount, but still it will shorten the lifespan of your gaskets, which is something i find too much of a risk for me to do,


That's pure FUD imho. My brother and my uncle's have been using nothing but Nuke-PHN in their loops for 3-4 years straight now. Some of their loops have ran the same blocks / fittings for 2+ years with distilled + Nuke-PHN without ever causing any such issues. The only problems any of them have ever had was back when they were still having to make do with heater cores and 120v pumps and were still learning about mixed metal corrosion and bacteria the hard way.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> it can, ANY mixed metals can, even brass and copper, if you have not read it here is a great read on galvanic corrosion
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
> i think the only exception is gold, which i have heard does not corrode. but i just dont believe that till i see it and with the price of gold, i doubt i will ever make a full set of blocks out of them ( sadly it is a great thermal conductor)
> 
> also to note if you see on the chart chrome, that is why i LOVE swiftech, as they use real chrome and not nickel-chrome plating
> 
> i would also like to add this is THE MOST SEXAY board i have ever laid my eyes on ! just beautiful


I wanted to get the gold EK blocks, but they seem to be perma-soldout anywhere reputable. Gold does not corrode, fact. @least, this is what iv'e been taught in every science class ever. It's one of the reasons it holds intrinsic value... Or something, so I guess those corroded traces on cheep electronics are not gold.









so, I now feel like i know nothing about watercooling... What coolant should I run with an all copper system? DeadWater makes no sense since it's made of copper. Also, EK claims that distilled water taints quickly, thus is not as great of a coolant as everyone says it is... this may be an excuse to sell snake oil.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> bloody hell. Of course, EK gpu blocks are all on back order everwhere for Titan. I'm thoroughly pissed.


This sucks I'm looking at probably buying some EK acrylic Nickle GPU blocks too D:


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This sucks I'm looking at probably buying some EK acrylic Nickle GPU blocks too D:


I went with Acetal because it's much more derp proof than Acryic (i'm a derp) I went with copper (this time) because it's much more derp proof (i'm a derp)










I was wrong though, only the really good stuff is on back order like gold plated.

smoked white acrylic CSQ(circles) nickel is in stock everywhere, but the crystal clear acrylic/nickel seems to be sold out everywhere. Didn't check ebay/amazon though.

BUY IT STRAIGHT FROM EK.


----------



## broken pixel

Anyone else running Offset voltages with a 3930k? If I change the LLC from auto to say a % is when everything acts up with the random reboots.

I left all default voltages but changed my PLL 1.65v and 1.10v VTT/ VCCSA for the 2133MHz mems and clocked to 4.0GHz. No random reboot unless I mess with the LLC setting percents.

My RIVE used High 130% for 4.7GHz max voltage under high load stress was 1.358v, 1.328v playing say BF4.

I guess I just have to face the fact I need to start from scratch again.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else running Offset voltages with a 3930k? If I change the LLC from auto to say a % is when everything acts up with the random reboots.
> 
> I left all default voltages but changed my PLL 1.65v and 1.10v VTT/ VCCSA for the 2133MHz mems and clocked to 4.0GHz. No random reboot unless I mess with the LLC setting percents.
> 
> My RIVE used High 130% for 4.7GHz max voltage under high load stress was 1.358v, 1.328v playing say BF4.
> 
> I guess I just have to face the fact I need to start from scratch again.


I'm sad to say that my system is still just a 1/3 built pile of parts thanks to this water block debacle. hopefully this will only delay my build 1-2 weeks, then I can finally figure it all out. In fact, i'll be able to just go off of your failings w/ my 3930k!


----------



## seross69

Just curious with the water blocks why does everyone want the nickle plated ones? I personally want all copper!


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i don't have a single nickel part in my build. I was starting to regret goin outta my way to stay away from nickel til problems started popping up again


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Just curious with the water blocks why does everyone want the nickle plated ones? I personally want all copper!


THEY SO SHINY... I'm going back to copper & never looking back. I would of tried the gold plated models, but those seem to be perma-sold out from all reputable vendors, & ordering from EK is just too expensive.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah Nickel blocks definitely have that bling to em. Especially the Supremacy Plexi/Nickel Clean CSQ's.

Matches perfect with RIVE BE too


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah Nickel blocks definitely have that bling to em. Especially the Supremacy Plexi/Nickel Clean CSQ's.
> 
> Matches perfect with RIVE BE too


^ This is probably why I'm looking @ the EK nickles as well. HRNGHHHHH


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah Nickel blocks definitely have that bling to em. Especially the Supremacy Plexi/Nickel Clean CSQ's.
> 
> Matches perfect with RIVE BE too


So does copper and black at least to me. I like this look better than the shinny look. I have never liked chrome or shinny show things..


----------



## skupples

i don't know man, this looked pretty sexy.

By the way, should I be worried about the radiator i'm re-using from my corroded system? Like, will it spread it's filth to my new system?


----------



## kpoeticg

I just payed for my Plexi/Copper Clean CSQ today. I like the way they look. I like the Nickel/Plexi look better with RIVE BE tho. I've just been too scurred to go with any Nickel since i started building my loop
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> i don't know man, this looked pretty sexy.
> 
> By the way, should I be worried about the radiator i'm re-using from my corroded system? Like, will it spread it's filth to my new system?


It's definitely possible u got some oxidization going on in there. At the very least, it couldn't hurt to give em a few good flushes. I've heard it doesn't affect your temps really tho


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> i don't know man, this looked pretty sexy.
> 
> By the way, should I be worried about the radiator i'm re-using from my corroded system? Like, will it spread it's filth to my new system?


Dem WC STD's!

Also http://www.ekwb.com/news/142/19/

Article on Nickel from EK
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I just payed for my Plexi/Copper Clean CSQ today. I like the way they look. I like the Nickel/Plexi look better with RIVE BE tho. I've just been too scurred to go with any Nickel since i started building my loop


Hmmm Maybe, I can KINDA see it twerking.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I got nickel everything, will have to inspect periodically. I'm using distilled water, I will look into anti corrosive additives and see.

I'm only using dead water, I removed the kill coil almost immediately.

@skupples how often did you flush your system?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> i don't know man, this looked pretty sexy.
> 
> By the way, should I be worried about the radiator i'm re-using from my corroded system? Like, will it spread it's filth to my new system?


I don't think this will cause you any problems I would just rinse them out good with a water and Vinegar solution. Actually fill them up with a hot solution of this and let them sit for a hour then rinse them..

I have used a product called safe-acid before. Brought it home from work but it removes everything and will make the inside nice and shinny again. it is what we use to clean radiators and heat exchanges at work. I would not tell anyone to do this as I dont want to feel responsible if they use to much and do damage or don't clean it all out and it damages something.

but I see you like to use the red line water wetter and this is good for engines and industrial uses. I use it at work but with the way it reduces Turbulence I don't think i would use it in a Computer loop. Due to needing this to help with the transfer of heat to the water. Just my opinion on this and I maybe right or I maybe wrong....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I got nickel everything, will have to inspect periodically. I'm using distilled water, I will look into anti corrosive additives and see.
> 
> I'm only using dead water, I removed the kill coil almost immediately.
> 
> @skupples how often did you flush your system?


Was doing it every two months, & from what I understand dead water is redundant because it's made of copper sulfate (some one correct if wrong, iv'e read it other places) I would highly recommend getting EK's very own nickel non-dilutable coolant. The article linked above says distilled is a terrible additive for mixed metal systems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think this will cause you any problems I would just rinse them out good with a water and Vinegar solution. Actually fill them up with a hot solution of this and let them sit for a hour then rinse them..
> 
> I have used a product called safe-acid before. Brought it home from work but it removes everything and will make the inside nice and shinny again. it is what we use to clean radiators and heat exchanges at work. I would not tell anyone to do this as I dont want to feel responsible if they use to much and do damage or don't clean it all out and it damages something.
> 
> 
> *but I see you like to use the red line water wetter and this is good for engines and industrial uses.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I use it at work but with the way it reduces Turbulence I don't think i would use it in a Computer loop. Due to needing this to help with the transfer of heat to the water. Just my opinion on this and I maybe right or I maybe wrong...
> 
> 
> .


I have yet to use it, picked it up the other day, was recommended from one of the club titan members. He swears by it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Can't forget about Aquacomputer either. I'm thinking of grabbing some of their 290x blocks


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have yet to use it, picked it up the other day, was recommended from one of the club titan members. He swears by it.


Well if you use it let me know what you think. As my opinion has really been on the fence on this sometimes I think it is good idea since it removes air but the fact that it reduces Turbulence concerns me....


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Was doing it every two months, & from what I understand dead water is redundant because it's made of copper sulfate (some one correct if wrong, iv'e read it other places) I would highly recommend getting EK's very own nickel non-dilutable coolant. The article linked above says distilled is a terrible additive for mixed metal systems.
> I have yet to use it, picked it up the other day, was recommended from one of the club titan members. He swears by it.


That was pretty frequent. I might just try that EK nickel coolant. My stuff is pretty fresh, gonna try and do what I can to preserve them clean.


----------



## kpoeticg

Unless you have your block Nickel Plated professionally by a reputable plating company, i don't think there's really any foolproof method to avoid corrosion. You could neglect your loop and never have issues or you can flush once a month and still have problems....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Well if you use it let me know what you think. As my opinion has really been on the fence on this sometimes I think it is good idea since it removes air but the fact that it reduces Turbulence concerns me....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That was pretty frequent. I might just try that EK nickel coolant. My stuff is pretty fresh, gonna try and do what I can to preserve them clean.


This was linked in Titan club by Protoss, a guide from Overclockers.com ( my first haunt!)

http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii/

Has a ton of good info.

JPMboy claims water wetter runs 2-3c cooler than just pure water in his system. (pure water is bad) I just read something I Have never read before, that I think very few people realize when recommending pure distilled water. Distilled water seeks to leach ions when warm/hot.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I won't be water cooling my RIVE BE, unless I go acrylic. Any work on water blocks?

What are some benefits of liquid cooling the board? Is it just ePeen like the memory?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I won't be water cooling my RIVE BE, unless I go acrylic. Any work on water blocks?
> 
> What are some benefits of liquid cooling the board? Is it just ePeen like the memory?


Has a slight bit more benefit than cooling the memory. Cooler VRM's equate to more stable overclocks, just like our gpu's.


----------



## DBaer

My first planed OC with this rig. It is running stable at 4.5Ghz on an H100i in surround at 5760 X 1200. Not a big deal based on what y'all are used to but I am happy with this start. The following pic is after an hour of Prime 95. It is still running.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> My first planed OC with this rig. It is running stable at 4.5Ghz on an H100i in surround at 5760 X 1200. Not a big deal based on what y'all are used to but I am happy with this start. The following pic is after an hour of Prime 95. It is still running.


Are you able to web browse while priming? 4.5 is good for ivy.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Are you able to web browse while priming? 4.5 is good for ivy.


Is be happy if my chip runs 4.5mhz. As a matter fact, drinks on me if it does lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Is be happy if my chip runs 4.5mhz. As a matter fact, drinks on me if it does lol


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Are you able to web browse while priming? 4.5 is good for ivy.


Yes, in fact I posted that while running Prime.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Is be happy if my chip runs 4.5mhz. As a matter fact, drinks on me if it does lol










OK, so if you guys meet me at CES next Mo I will buy the first few rounds.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Has a slight bit more benefit than cooling the memory. *Cooler VRM's equate to more stable overclocks, just like our gpu's.*


THIS !! THANK YOU SKUPPLES +1
YOU'VE SOLVED MY CONUNDRUM !!

EK it is.


----------



## skupples

btw, why is that part of the xspc block red? That's just funky.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> btw, why is that part of the xspc block red? That's just funky.


they were highlighting the VRM cooling section.


----------



## seross69

I remember seeing someone saying they wanted the Gold EK CPU block but it is always sold out. FCPU has 3 of them in stock now.


----------



## LunaP

Skupps they have the EK Copper blocks in http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=38210

I can't find nickel anywhere though.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Skupps they have the EK Copper blocks in http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=38210
> 
> I can't find nickel anywhere though.


thats the one I have. let me know if you want some pics of it with led's in the clear cover


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> thats the one I have. let me know if you want some pics of it with led's in the clear cover


Sure I guess though I think I wanna get the nickel to compliment my board but I'll look anyways noone seems to be buying the coppers as they're all still in stock


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sure I guess though I think I wanna get the nickel to compliment my board but I'll look anyways noone seems to be buying the coppers as they're all still in stock


I already sent the pictures to you of the blocks I have I looked real quick and can not find better ones of them installed with leds but here are these.


----------



## szeged

Hey guys, since were on a WC kick the past few pages

i usually go all acrylic and match them up with silver shining bitspower fittings for a uniform look









havent had any problems with EK nickle blocks flaking, but theres a place in town that does nickle(and other) plating, so if i ever do have a problem, boom, replated









I hope EK make some awesome looking blocks for this board







and if anyone can check out my buildlog and help me decide how im going to route my tubing in the sth10, would be greatly appreciated, so far ive come up with a few ideas but they all make the sth10 look empty, im trying to go for a clean look but dont want you to be able to miss the loop if you just glance at it lol. ty.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Both my TITAN EK Nickel Blocks have corrosion, they are a little over a month old.
Unreal!

Gonna open the CPU block and check for corrosion. Geez.


----------



## erayser

I've seen to many threads and pics with issues with nickel plated blocks. I've never had issues with copper blocks. I wanted to get acetal for the RIVBE, but I went with plexi copper EK blocks... just in case I want to change things up and experiment with Mayhems dye and LED options.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'll stick to what I've seen work in system after system for years.

All copper blocks and all copper rads, thoroughly flushed with hot distilled water over and over until no more debris come out. The only nickel I'll have will be found in a few fittings. I'll stay away from ever using any acids like vinegar or citric acid cleaners in rads or in the loop, which are great to shine up a block you have taken apart, but trace amounts left in a rad/loop lower the loop's PH, increase electrical conductivity, and accelerate corrosion especially on nickel anything. There's many topics here on OCN showing examples of that.

Distilled plus Nuke-PHN only. No coolants. No dyes. No anti-corrosive additives. Drain and refill every couple months if not more. Break it down and inspect blocks/fittings a couple times a year.

EDIT: OMG! I just noticed what LaBestiaHumana just posted about his new EK blocks ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/54440_20#post_21359446

Not good.

Yet another reason why I just don't care for EK. I know they are all the rage here on OCN, but I just don't like the generic 'square' look of all of their blocks, especially not the ones they put circles all over, and to top it off they show up in too many posts like that where there seems they suffer from some faulty production processes or something. Thought they had put all that behind them but maybe not. The one good thing I'll say about them is they do seem to have pretty good customer support for dealing with stuff like that.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I won't be water cooling my RIVE BE, unless I go acrylic. Any work on water blocks?
> 
> What are some benefits of liquid cooling the board? Is it just ePeen like the memory?
> 
> 
> 
> Has a slight bit more benefit than cooling the memory. Cooler VRM's equate to more stable overclocks, just like our gpu's.
Click to expand...

meh,placebo at best
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Well if you use it let me know what you think. As my opinion has really been on the fence on this sometimes I think it is good idea since it removes air but the fact that it reduces Turbulence concerns me....
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That was pretty frequent. I might just try that EK nickel coolant. My stuff is pretty fresh, gonna try and do what I can to preserve them clean.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This was linked in Titan club by Protoss, a guide from Overclockers.com ( my first haunt!)
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii/
> 
> Has a ton of good info.
> 
> JPMboy claims *water wetter* runs 2-3c cooler than just pure water in his system. (pure water is bad) I just read something I Have never read before, that I think very few people realize when recommending pure distilled water. Distilled water seeks to leach ions when warm/hot.
Click to expand...

nothing new,..many have tried aand they all dropped the idea very quickly (it stinks and stains ..bad )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Both my TITAN EK Nickel Blocks have corrosion, they are a little over a month old.
> Unreal!
> 
> Gonna open the CPU block and check for corrosion. Geez.


*Classic EK* ,this is second block posted on OCN in the past month with corrosion "been there ,done that " I was going to go back to EK but I'm glad I didn't
P.S. post this in EK thread they should take care of you quick -This time around


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> meh,placebo at best
> nothing new,..many have tried aand they all dumb the idea very quickly (it stinks and stains ..bad )
> *Classic EK* ,this second block posted on OCN in the past month with corrosion "been there ,done that " I was going to go back to EK but I'm glad I didn't
> P.S. post this in EK thread they should take care of you quick -This time around


I already posted it, gonna call FrozenCPU in the morning.


----------



## centvalny

Testing Black board with retail cpu on Runmc's SS @ -39 evap temp.

Gotta take it colder...



Colder

Good IMC


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Testing Black board with retail cpu on Runmc's SS @ -39 evap temp.
> 
> Gotta take it colder...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Colder
> 
> Good IMC


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> it can, ANY mixed metals can, even brass and copper, if you have not read it here is a great read on galvanic corrosion
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
> i think the only exception is gold, which i have heard does not corrode. but i just dont believe that till i see it and with the price of gold, i doubt i will ever make a full set of blocks out of them ( sadly it is a great thermal conductor)
> 
> also to note if you see on the chart chrome, that is why i LOVE swiftech, as they use real chrome and not nickel-chrome plating
> 
> i would also like to add this is THE MOST SEXAY board i have ever laid my eyes on ! just beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get the gold EK blocks, but they seem to be perma-soldout anywhere reputable. Gold does not corrode, fact. @least, this is what iv'e been taught in every science class ever. It's one of the reasons it holds intrinsic value... Or something, so I guess those corroded traces on cheep electronics are not gold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so, I now feel like i know nothing about watercooling... What coolant should I run with an all copper system? DeadWater makes no sense since it's made of copper. Also, EK claims that distilled water taints quickly, thus is not as great of a coolant as everyone says it is... this may be an excuse to sell snake oil.
Click to expand...

water is the best acctually !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Just curious with the water blocks why does everyone want the nickle plated ones? I personally want all copper!


yea, as do i only reason i have the ek nickel blocks is they dont make all copper one for my ud7
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and that also explains why i highly recommend against using it, i would take slightly acidic over bleach anyday. bleach even in small amounts eats rubber. and yes it is an extremely small amount, but still it will shorten the lifespan of your gaskets, which is something i find too much of a risk for me to do,
> 
> 
> 
> That's pure FUD imho. My brother and my uncle's have been using nothing but Nuke-PHN in their loops for 3-4 years straight now. Some of their loops have ran the same blocks / fittings for 2+ years with distilled + Nuke-PHN without ever causing any such issues. The only problems any of them have ever had was back when they were still having to make do with heater cores and 120v pumps and were still learning about mixed metal corrosion and bacteria the hard way.
Click to expand...

hahaha i love this, please feel free to grab some bleach ( that is what chlorine is ) put is in a glass container, and then put a peice of rubber in it, leave it for a week, 2, a month.

i am certified to work on pools, hate to tell people this but bleach ( even benzalkonium chloride which is also used quite commonly in pools ) eats everything, after a few years even the PVC is dangerously fragile and breaks much easier, wont even go into how much you change gaskets out for PMs, )

feel free to call me fud, but show me proof, heres mine, if you do not believe me google "does bleach eat rubber" take your pick of which answer you want to use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I got nickel everything, will have to inspect periodically. I'm using distilled water, I will look into anti corrosive additives and see.
> 
> I'm only using dead water, I removed the kill coil almost immediately.
> 
> @skupples how often did you flush your system?
> 
> 
> 
> Was doing it every two months, & from what I understand dead water is redundant because it's made of copper sulfate (some one correct if wrong, iv'e read it other places) I would highly recommend getting EK's very own nickel non-dilutable coolant. The article linked above says distilled is a terrible additive for mixed metal systems.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think this will cause you any problems I would just rinse them out good with a water and Vinegar solution. Actually fill them up with a hot solution of this and let them sit for a hour then rinse them..
> 
> I have used a product called safe-acid before. Brought it home from work but it removes everything and will make the inside nice and shinny again. it is what we use to clean radiators and heat exchanges at work. I would not tell anyone to do this as I dont want to feel responsible if they use to much and do damage or don't clean it all out and it damages something.
> 
> 
> *but I see you like to use the red line water wetter and this is good for engines and industrial uses.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I use it at work but with the way it reduces Turbulence I don't think i would use it in a Computer loop. Due to needing this to help with the transfer of heat to the water. Just my opinion on this and I maybe right or I maybe wrong...
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have yet to use it, picked it up the other day, was recommended from one of the club titan members. He swears by it.
Click to expand...

waterwetter is snake oil, which is covered on martins sites ( this may be the wrong link )

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Well if you use it let me know what you think. As my opinion has really been on the fence on this sometimes I think it is good idea since it removes air but the fact that it reduces Turbulence concerns me....
> 
> 
> 
> distilled is king
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That was pretty frequent. I might just try that EK nickel coolant. My stuff is pretty fresh, gonna try and do what I can to preserve them clean.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This was linked in Titan club by Protoss, a guide from Overclockers.com ( my first haunt!)
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii/
> 
> Has a ton of good info.
> 
> JPMboy claims water wetter runs 2-3c cooler than just pure water in his system. (pure water is bad) I just read something I Have never read before, that I think very few people realize when recommending pure distilled water. Distilled water seeks to leach ions when warm/hot.
Click to expand...

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/2/
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/22/distilled-water-shootout-water-purity/

all liquid does !


----------



## seross69

One thing that is 100% accurate is that distilled water wants ions and it will pull them from the metal. now with you changing your water every 2 to 3 months this might not matter. but the fact is that distilled water will pull this out faster than anything else you would us in a loop.

Say this I still think all copper with distilled water is best for low maintenance system. If you don't mind changing water and cleaning things then some DI and dye..

All the studies and everything that is done is usually on things with a much larger scale than we are using..


----------



## szeged

this is why i just pee in my loop to fill it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> this is why i just pee in my loop to fill it.


I do that when i run out of soda


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> this is why i just pee in my loop to fill it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I do that when i run out of soda


Beer works good once you get the suds out!!!! I would say rum but no way I am going to waste any of my rum on a computer, I wont give it to a woman sure not going to give to a computer!!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> [...] hahaha i love this, please feel free to grab some bleach ( that is what chlorine is ) put is in a glass container, and then put a peice of rubber in it, leave it for a week, 2, a month.
> 
> i am certified to work on pools, hate to tell people this but bleach ( even benzalkonium chloride which is also used quite commonly in pools ) eats everything, after a few years even the PVC is dangerously fragile and breaks much easier, wont even go into how much you change gaskets out for PMs, )
> 
> feel free to call me fud, but show me proof, heres mine, if you do not believe me google "does bleach eat rubber" take your pick of which answer you want to use. [...]


lol! Never have I seen or heard of an o-ring in a WC block, pump, fitting, etc made of plain old 'rubber'. Some are made of EPDM, a synthetic rubber, which has a very good resistance to full strength bleach, and more commonly they are made of silicon which is essentially impervious to bleaches.

And besides all that, the levels of bleach in a swimming pool - filled with chlorinated water to begin with before adding ungodly amounts of bleach to it - are exponentially higher than a drop or two of Nuke-PHN in a loop. That's a ridiculous comparison to make.

Now, one thing that will eat up a silicon o-ring is vinegar, full-strength at least.


----------



## kpoeticg

Aren't some made of Buna or Burna or whatever its called?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Beer works good once you get the suds out!!!! I would say rum but no way I am going to waste any of my rum on a computer, I wont give it to a woman sure not going to give to a computer!!!


The money i spend on my women and computers, they should be giving me rum!!!


----------



## Ftimster

wow I'm guessing the lack of any kind of technical talk having to do with the mother board bios ..people must be having a fairly easy go of it with this board .......lol


----------



## seross69

^^









and what exactly is that??


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Aren't some made of Buna or Burna or whatever its called?


I think that's another name for Nitrile, which is even more resistant to a broad range of chemicals than silicon. Nitrile o-rings also cost more, so I'm not sure I've seen any in WC parts. The colored Bitspower O-Rings I've bought are silicon.


----------



## szeged

im waiting to get my 780ti classifieds in before installing the board and making sure its not doa etc etc...god this wait is killing me.


----------



## kpoeticg

Makes sense. I haven't done much research about o-rings. Just remember coming across something about that. You're probly right


----------



## seross69

Nitrile or Buna-N from duo 40 to duo 90

I think is what you wanted to say...


----------



## kpoeticg

Buna-N yeah that's what i was thinking of. I ripped an o-ring when i was taking apart one of my Akasa Vipers to dye it and i couldn't find a replacement. That's when i saw the Buna-N ones for sale








Ended up just grabbing a cpl used Apache's since they have the same internals


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> [...] hahaha i love this, please feel free to grab some bleach ( that is what chlorine is ) put is in a glass container, and then put a peice of rubber in it, leave it for a week, 2, a month.
> 
> i am certified to work on pools, hate to tell people this but bleach ( even benzalkonium chloride which is also used quite commonly in pools ) eats everything, after a few years even the PVC is dangerously fragile and breaks much easier, wont even go into how much you change gaskets out for PMs, )
> 
> feel free to call me fud, but show me proof, heres mine, if you do not believe me google "does bleach eat rubber" take your pick of which answer you want to use. [...]
> 
> 
> 
> lol! Never have I seen or heard of an o-ring in a WC block, pump, fitting, etc made of plain old 'rubber'. Some are made of EPDM, a synthetic rubber, which has a very good resistance to full strength bleach, and more commonly they are made of silicon which is essentially impervious to bleaches.
> 
> And besides all that, the levels of bleach in a swimming pool - filled with chlorinated water to begin with before adding ungodly amounts of bleach to it - are exponentially higher than a drop or two of Nuke-PHN in a loop. That's a ridiculous comparison to make.
> 
> Now, one thing that will eat up a silicon o-ring is vinegar, full-strength at least.
Click to expand...

i never said it was quick, nor did i say that that it would happen overnight, i cautioned against it. i also already said it was an extremely low level. which is the same as acid in the copper sulfate. however rubber has been used to contain several acids without issue.

distilled is king but like with anything that is the best, they usually require much more maintenance, which is the alure of AIOs to alot of people. i am with others i change my loop every 1-6 months.

as to the "small scale" we deal with , that would be why i trust martinliquidlabs, almost exclusively his methodology is near perfect , and he has been doing water cooling longer then most.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I remember seeing someone saying they wanted the Gold EK CPU block but it is always sold out. FCPU has 3 of them in stock now.


They must of got them in this morning, they were all sold out when I placed the order last night, maybe next time! Looks like i'll be getting all new blocks from EK though. Which is extremely kind since this is more on the side of user error. In theory gold blocks should be amazing for anti-corrosion.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> meh,placebo at best
> nothing new,..many have tried aand they all dropped the idea very quickly (it stinks and stains ..bad )
> *Classic EK* ,this is second block posted on OCN in the past month with corrosion "been there ,done that " I was going to go back to EK but I'm glad I didn't
> P.S. post this in EK thread they should take care of you quick -This time around


The only problem with this theory is that other companies pushing clear acrylic + nickel blocks are now showing signs of corrosion as hell. I do believe that nickel may of had an issue in years past when they first started pushing nickel, but i'm more apt to believe now that it's on the side of user error + bad advice from the peanut gallery.


----------



## coolhandluke41

I don't see what acrylic have to do with nickel peeling off ,EK try to blame silver +pure H20 ...all of my blocks are nickel plated and some 5 years old with no sign off peeling (I only use H20 +silver or nuke) ,the GTX 570 block from them start to corrode in few months ,if you want to have a peace of mind I would recommend non Glycol based coolants like Thermochill EC6,Nanoxia or similar (Koolance line up was reported to be good also )
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thec6noncoco.html

EDIT; a lot of users don't realize how important is water loop purging,I have seen pics of systems with pure copper,H2o+nuke running for two years clean as whistle,I love nickel since all I do is swap H20 once/twice a year (I usually don't take blocks apart )


----------



## asfgbdnf

Has anyone done any overclocking tests yet? I use my ivb-e cpu with r4e since its launch. Extremely stable. 1.24V 4.5G. Now testing with R4BE, my computer shut down instantly during p95 test, increasing vcore to even 1.3v, still shut down instantly. Besides, I notice the voltage reading of vcore is incorrect from adia64, HWiNFO64, even asus suite3. Aida64 (latest beta version) only shows very few entries with R4BE. however, this reading seems ok if I reset the bios setting with 'load optimized setting'.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see what acrylic have to do with nickel peeling off ,EK try to blame silver +pure H20 ...all of my blocks are nickel plated and some 5 years old with no sign off peeling (I only use H20 +silver or nuke) ,the GTX 570 block from them start to corrode in few months ,if you want to have a peace of mind I would recommend non Glycol based coolants like Thermochill EC6,Nanoxia or similar (Koolance line up was reported to be good also )
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thec6noncoco.html
> 
> EDIT; a lot of users don't realize how important is water loop purging,I have seen pics of systems with pure copper,H2o+nuke running for two years clean as whistle,I love nickel since all I do is swap H20 once/twice a year (I usually don't take blocks apart )


hehe, i'm trying Mayhems XT-1, which is glycol based. I realize it can inhibit cooling performance in large enough quantities, but the bottles were cheep as hell, & get good enough reviews. I got a few product, the Mayhems XT-1 & the Liquid utopia stuff. Will see which performs best.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Has anyone done any overclocking tests yet? I use my ivb-e cpu with r4e since its launch. Extremely stable. 1.24V 4.5G. Now testing with R4BE, my computer shut down instantly during p95 test, increasing vcore to even 1.3v, still shut down instantly. Besides, I notice the voltage reading of vcore is incorrect from adia64, HWiNFO64, even asus suite3. Aida64 (latest beta version) only shows very few entries with R4BE. however, this reading seems ok if I reset the bios setting with 'load optimized setting'.


Use CPU-Z for voltage, get it from here (post number 6, listed as "tools"):

http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2479

Other tools are showing VID only, which is why voltage reading works when "stock" settings are applied.

set CPU VRM to "high" to end reboots on P95. Might not work with all chips.


----------



## coolhandluke41

I don't think XT-1 is Glycol based or very little , ..I know they have some without Glycol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I don't think XT-1 is Glycol based or very little , ..I know they have some without Glycol


Mayhem XT-1 Coolant is a High Efficiency, Non-Toxic, Low Viscosity coolant based on Ethylene Glycol.

got this, & the clear liquid utopia primochill fluid. Either one should be fine, the only problem iv'e read with XT-1 is that too much inhibits cooling, too little is of course, not going to do enough to protect against corrosion, not that i'm on copper it isn't going to be a huge deal. Should be getting replacement blocks from EK in a few weeks as well, so those will be going into the market place BNIB.


----------



## szeged

even if the EK blocks are doomed, ill still grab them just for the fact that their customer support is the evga of watercooling


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Use CPU-Z for voltage, get it from here (post number 6, listed as "tools"):
> 
> http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2479
> 
> Other tools are showing VID only, which is why voltage reading works when "stock" settings are applied.
> 
> set CPU VRM to "high" to end reboots on P95. Might not work with all chips.


that 'tool' in post 6 is turboV, which only can see the volt settings in bios and cannot be used to monitor the voltage during run-time.
I also assume the voltage shown in adia64 is VID as it never changes during run-time.
which entry in bios is related to CPU VRM? My attempt shows that set vccsa to 'high" is helpful.


----------



## ino8

Nothing wrong with distilled, been in use for decades with little to no problems especially with all copper loops, more than you can say for any special flavour of the month 'coolant'. EK like to blame anything but their own nickel plating process for obvious reasons.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> even if the EK blocks are doomed, ill still grab them just for the fact that their customer support is the evga of watercooling


sorry but they may be good, swiftech is by far the BEST customer service... well EVER, any problems with their product never had a bump in the road. never been questioned, and always done very very quickly, politely, and everything you could EVER want out of a company.

i am also taking the watercooling out of the statement, swiftech is TOP IN CLASS customer service, add in to the fact that gabe himself has said that he does not only market to price, but safety, and a miriad of other things, i stay with swiftech as much as i can !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ino8*
> 
> Nothing wrong with distilled, been in use for decades with little to no problems especially with all copper loops, more than you can say for any special flavour of the month 'coolant'. EK like to blame anything but their own nickel plating process for obvious reasons.


idk why anyone is picking on EK

ill pull something from koolance website, this statement has been on their website as long as i can remember and on any product i know of for inside of loops
Quote:


> Koolance's product warranty does not cover the use of 3rd-party coolants, _*coolant additives, or corrosion*_. Koolance LIQ-702 or LIQ-705 coolants are strongly recommended to help avoid issues with mixed metals or biological growth. Additionally, do not use aluminum with bare (unplated) copper or bare (unplated) brass in the same system. _*Do not use silver with nickel in the same system.*_


my source? goto koolances product page ( any, it really does not matter as long as they are used in a loop, i never really checked any product outside of a loop like their fan controller) and scroll to the bottom
i added the bold/italic/underline

1 silver does react to nickel, otherwise why would so many companies say this?
2 i dont know why some are more prone, probably more related to the plating process/quality of the plating ( which is not necessarily the companies fault mixtures of stuff can change without them being able to get the old stuff ( can anyone say EPA? ))


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> that 'tool' in post 6 is turboV, which only can see the volt settings in bios and cannot be used to monitor the voltage during run-time.
> I also assume the voltage shown in adia64 is VID as it never changes during run-time.
> which entry in bios is related to CPU VRM? My attempt shows that set vccsa to 'high" is helpful.


there should be a file I nthat thread labelled "X79pak" that has the working CPU-Z. That's where I got it form...the one on the disc didn't work.

VCCSA and vCPU loadline levels need adjusting, yes. Typically "high" is "what you set is what you get".


----------



## ino8

Didn't say anything about silver







It has indeed been shown that silver reacts with nickel, also why I tend to avoid nickel and also just prefer the look of bare copper. My gripe is with manufacturer own, usually expensive, coolant when distilled is very often a better, safer and cheaper choice given you are careful with what you put in your loop, ie, do your research.

You can run aluminium with copper for years with special liquid and a pressure valve, in fact Koolance have ran that as a test of their own liquid. Does that mean you should or that it is a better option than distilled and a pure copper/brass loop?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> there should be a file I nthat thread labelled "X79pak" that has the working CPU-Z. That's where I got it form...the one on the disc didn't work.
> 
> VCCSA and vCPU loadline levels need adjusting, yes. Typically "high" is "what you set is what you get".


I'm afraid there is no cpu-z included in ''x79pak'.
there is memtweakit, turbov and a '*.cap' bios file, but no cpu-z


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry but they may be good, swiftech is by far the BEST customer service... well EVER, any problems with their product never had a bump in the road. never been questioned, and always done very very quickly, politely, and everything you could EVER want out of a company.
> 
> i am also taking the watercooling out of the statement, swiftech is TOP IN CLASS customer service, add in to the fact that gabe himself has said that he does not only market to price, but safety, and a miriad of other things, i stay with swiftech as much as i can !
> idk why anyone is picking on EK


ive only had troubles with swiftech products, not the customer service though, the things i had problems with didnt require an rma, but they still caused a major headache lol, thus i am sticking with EK blocks, bitspower fittings, AC rads


----------



## Mega Man

dont take me wrong that was not directed at you, just everyone singling out ek, ek is not the only one who does this, and that was all my point was

notice how swiftech doesnt though ? it is because they use real Chromium <3 swiftech !


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dont take me wrong that was not directed at you, just everyone singling out ek, ek is not the only one who does this, and that was all my point was
> 
> notice how swiftech doesnt though ? it is because they use real Chromium <3 swiftech !


oh i know, and im not saying youre wrong or anything either, just more of a general statement lol, im open to always trying new products and everything but with my past experiences with different watercooling companies, i think ill stick on whats working for me so far







im sure i just got unlucky with my swiftech purchases lol.

im still waiting for an all diamond and platinum waterblock with my name engraved in it with unobtanium, first manufacturer to produce it gets all my money.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've been avoiding Swiftech ever since learning that they won't honor the warranty on their pumps if they find out it was used with any sort of modified pump top. Ridiculous!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've been avoiding Swiftech ever since learning that they won't honor the warranty on their pumps if they find out it was used with any sort of modified pump top. Ridiculous!


what do they mean by modified pump top? anything that doesnt come with just the D5?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> what do they mean by modified pump top? anything that doesnt come with just the D5?


Yep.

It's not just the use of any modified pump top either. Apparently even just trying to check out the o-ring or clean it out also voids the warranty. On every Swiftech pump page they'll have:
Quote:


> Important warranty information:
> 
> Users are reminded that disassembling their pump for any reason, including for the purpose of upgrading the housing, automatically voids the pump warranty.


See here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1432609/my-horror-story-with-performance-pcs-com-and-swiftech/0_20

So if you were to buy a swiftech pump that's been modified, like this for example:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14767/ex-pmp-172/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Pump_Mod_Kit_Mod_Top_V2_w_Swiftech_PWM_Pump_Installed.html?tl=g30c107s1802

There's no way Swiftech will honor the warranty on that pump. So if it dies 3 months after you bought it, perhaps FrozenCPU will handle the claim themselves? Somehow I doubt it after their 30 days are up.

AFAIK Swiftech is the only reseller of Laing D5 / DDC pumps to have this ridiculous policy.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I'm afraid there is no cpu-z included in ''x79pak'.
> there is memtweakit, turbov and a '*.cap' bios file, but no cpu-z


you are right, my bad. Maybe try the one from the RIVBE support page? I am confused where I got mine from...







....but I know that the CPU-Z I got matches what my multimeter reads, although with a slight delay.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> you are right, my bad. Maybe try the one from the RIVBE support page? I am confused where I got mine from...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....but I know that the CPU-Z I got matches what my multimeter reads, although with a slight delay.


I will try to find it from the RIVBE support page, in the meantime, could you upload a copy of yours?


----------



## cadaveca

I'll try:

ROG_CPUZ_XPVistaWin7-8_8-1_VER1661.zip 1832k .zip file


swapped VGAs out:


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> even if the EK blocks are doomed, ill still grab them just for the fact that their customer support is the evga of watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry but they may be good, swiftech is by far the BEST customer service... well EVER, any problems with their product never had a bump in the road. never been questioned, and always done very very quickly, politely, and everything you could EVER want out of a company.
> 
> i am also taking the watercooling out of the statement, swiftech is TOP IN CLASS customer service, add in to the fact that gabe himself has said that he does not only market to price, but safety, and a miriad of other things, i stay with swiftech as much as i can !
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ino8*
> 
> Nothing wrong with distilled, been in use for decades with little to no problems especially with all copper loops, more than you can say for any special flavour of the month 'coolant'. EK like to blame anything but their own nickel plating process for obvious reasons.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> idk why anyone is picking on EK
> 
> ill pull something from koolance website, this statement has been on their website as long as i can remember and on any product i know of for inside of loops
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Koolance's product warranty does not cover the use of 3rd-party coolants, _*coolant additives, or corrosion*_. Koolance LIQ-702 or LIQ-705 coolants are strongly recommended to help avoid issues with mixed metals or biological growth. Additionally, do not use aluminum with bare (unplated) copper or bare (unplated) brass in the same system. _*Do not use silver with nickel in the same system.*_
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> my source? goto koolances product page ( any, it really does not matter as long as they are used in a loop, i never really checked any product outside of a loop like their fan controller) and scroll to the bottom
> i added the bold/italic/underline
> 
> 1 silver does react to nickel, otherwise why would so many companies say this?
> 2 i dont know why some are more prone, probably more related to the plating process/quality of the plating ( which is not necessarily the companies fault mixtures of stuff can change without them being able to get the old stuff ( can anyone say EPA? ))
Click to expand...

this came to life after EK fiasco ,..I think they got little paranoid with a bit of push of their own fluids
P.S.
no one is picking on them ,all tho there was few that did when this happend since EK blamed everything and anything as long as it didn't have EK logo on it,bottom line is all the rest of WB makers that use Nickel didn't have this problem

*Let's drop the EK subject please*
I wan't to see some picks !! new rigs !!


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I'll try:
> 
> ROG_CPUZ_XPVistaWin7-8_8-1_VER1661.zip 1832k .zip file
> 
> 
> swapped VGAs out:


what do you mean 'swapped VGAs'?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> what do you mean 'swapped VGAs'?


Had an MSI GTX780 Gaming in before. Now dual 7970's.


----------



## Raghar

When would you post your review? Do you have planed date already?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Had an MSI GTX780 Gaming in before. Now dual 7970's.


how noisy it is with two 7970?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> When would you post your review? Do you have planed date already?


No exact date planned, got an ASRock mITX review to go first, which is nearly done, and then this one. Less work on this review than the ASRock, since I still have to bench the ASRock board, but everything else is done, while with the RIVBE, I gotta edit pics, make graphs, and do the write-up.

DO keep in mind, reviews is just a hobby for me, not a full-time job. Right now I am in school full-time, plus caring for my four kids, so I don't keep exact schedules at this point. Finals begin next week for me, and into the new year, but come mid-January, I hope to be pushing out a couple of reviews a week and get my backlog caught up. I haven't even been accepting new samples except for some ram kits. But hey, I can always use more ram.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> how noisy it is with two 7970?


Pretty noisy with the case door on and full OC. This 300r or whatever it is I got isn't exactly made for high-end builds, but it gets the job done for now. I got about 20 reviews to do, then I'll have some funds for finishing the RIVBE build; I want totally new VGAs and a water loop, but that's gonna cost $2500 for what I want. Already got about that much into it as well with CPUs, drives, ram ,etc...so this build has got to last me for a while.

My OCD about having mis-matched cards drives me nuts, but the performance is near where I like, so that's that. At least I got all ASUS stuffs.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> what do they mean by modified pump top? anything that doesnt come with just the D5?
> 
> 
> 
> Yep.
> 
> It's not just the use of any modified pump top either. Apparently even just trying to check out the o-ring or clean it out also voids the warranty. On every Swiftech pump page they'll have:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Important warranty information:
> 
> Users are reminded that disassembling their pump for any reason, including for the purpose of upgrading the housing, automatically voids the pump warranty.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> See here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1432609/my-horror-story-with-performance-pcs-com-and-swiftech/0_20
> 
> So if you were to buy a swiftech pump that's been modified, like this for example:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14767/ex-pmp-172/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Pump_Mod_Kit_Mod_Top_V2_w_Swiftech_PWM_Pump_Installed.html?tl=g30c107s1802
> 
> There's no way Swiftech will honor the warranty on that pump. So if it dies 3 months after you bought it, perhaps FrozenCPU will handle the claim themselves? Somehow I doubt it after their 30 days are up.
> 
> AFAIK Swiftech is the only reseller of Laing D5 / DDC pumps to have this ridiculous policy.
Click to expand...

not completely true, and harder to find, on the swiftech pump top instructions ( IE if you want to swap from a black to white, or old pump to new pump


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> IMPORTANT WA
> RRANTY INFORMATION:
> Installation of this
> housing to your existing MCP35 series pump
> does not void your
> pump warranty
> , to the exception of any damage(s) caused to the
> pump as a result of exposure of its internal circuitry to moisture,
> including but not lim
> ited to due to a defect in material or workmanship
> in the housing itself, or an incorrect installation: in effect, it is the
> express responsibility of the user to ascertain that the assembly is
> leak
> -
> free, and that the housing is free of possible accidental
> defects
> or damages that could affect the seal between itself and the pump
> body prior to installation, as well as to install the product properly.





source

although i do understand your position, i understand theirs as well. pump tops can cause damage to the pump if made improperly. and why should they take the hit on someone elses product

either way their fittings are much cheaper and much better imo


----------



## JimmyWild

Wow! Lots of convo happened last night. I was building last night and just now got caught up on the thread.

I got my temp build going, in the 500R with H100i. But issue I ran into was that the 8pin CPU power cable on my AX860 PSU doesn't fit in the 8pin connector on the board. So I can only connect the 4pin.

Anyone else have PSU/Mobo connector issues? I'm gonna have to wait till Thurs I guess, till my new PSU gets here.

EDIT: Nevermind, i'm dumb. I found someone else had the same issue. The connector might not match exactly but they still fit. Just have to press a bit harder. I'll give it another go tonight.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> No exact date planned, got an ASRock mITX review to go first, which is nearly done, and then this one. Less work on this review than the ASRock, since I still have to bench the ASRock board, but everything else is done, while with the RIVBE, I gotta edit pics, make graphs, and do the write-up.
> 
> DO keep in mind, reviews is just a hobby for me, not a full-time job. Right now I am in school full-time, plus caring for my four kids, so I don't keep exact schedules at this point. Finals begin next week for me, and into the new year, but come mid-January, I hope to be pushing out a couple of reviews a week and get my backlog caught up. I haven't even been accepting new samples except for some ram kits. But hey, I can always use more ram.
> Pretty noisy with the case door on and full OC. This 300r or whatever it is I got isn't exactly made for high-end builds, but it gets the job done for now. I got about 20 reviews to do, then I'll have some funds for finishing the RIVBE build; I want totally new VGAs and a water loop, but that's gonna cost $2500 for what I want. Already got about that much into it as well with CPUs, drives, ram ,etc...so this build has got to last me for a while.
> 
> My OCD about having mis-matched cards drives me nuts, but the performance is near where I like, so that's that. At least I got all ASUS stuffs.


where can I find your reviews?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> where can I find your reviews?


www.techpowerup.com


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> www.techpowerup.com


cannot find any reviews from techpowerup written by cadaveca


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not completely true, and harder to find, on the swiftech pump top instructions ( IE if you want to swap from a black to white, or old pump to new pump
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT WA
> RRANTY INFORMATION:
> Installation of this
> housing to your existing MCP35 series pump
> does not void your
> pump warranty
> , to the exception of any damage(s) caused to the
> pump as a result of exposure of its internal circuitry to moisture,
> including but not lim
> ited to due to a defect in material or workmanship
> in the housing itself, or an incorrect installation: in effect, it is the
> express responsibility of the user to ascertain that the assembly is
> leak
> -
> free, and that the housing is free of possible accidental
> defects
> or damages that could affect the seal between itself and the pump
> body prior to installation, as well as to install the product properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> source
> 
> although i do understand your position, i understand theirs as well. pump tops can cause damage to the pump if made improperly. and why should they take the hit on someone elses product
> 
> either way their fittings are much cheaper and much better imo
Click to expand...

OK, so Swiftech only makes an exception to their pump warranty only _if_ you use a Swiftech pump top, *except* in the case that there was any defect in their top or it leaks for any reason, and in that case they also won't honor their warranty on their product. That just makes it even more of a ridiculous policy when no other reseller of Laing D5 / DDC pumps resorts to anything of the sort. I'll just avoid everything with a Swiftech name on it just because of something like that.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> cannot find any reviews from techpowerup written by cadaveca












Yes you can, look at any motherboard or memory review posted in the last 3 years.







The Crucial memory review on the front page right now is mine, even.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you can, look at any motherboard or memory review posted in the last 3 years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Crucial memory review on the front page right now is mine, even.


alright, now i see it. nice review. who gives it a final score of 8.8?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not completely true, and harder to find, on the swiftech pump top instructions ( IE if you want to swap from a black to white, or old pump to new pump
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT WA
> RRANTY INFORMATION:
> Installation of this
> housing to your existing MCP35 series pump
> does not void your
> pump warranty
> , to the exception of any damage(s) caused to the
> pump as a result of exposure of its internal circuitry to moisture,
> including but not lim
> ited to due to a defect in material or workmanship
> in the housing itself, or an incorrect installation: in effect, it is the
> express responsibility of the user to ascertain that the assembly is
> leak
> -
> free, and that the housing is free of possible accidental
> defects
> or damages that could affect the seal between itself and the pump
> body prior to installation, as well as to install the product properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> source
> 
> although i do understand your position, i understand theirs as well. pump tops can cause damage to the pump if made improperly. and why should they take the hit on someone elses product
> 
> either way their fittings are much cheaper and much better imo
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OK, so Swiftech only makes an exception to their pump warranty only _if_ you use a Swiftech pump top, *except* in the case that there was any defect in their top or it leaks for any reason, and in that case they also won't honor their warranty on their product. That just makes it even more of a ridiculous policy when no other reseller of Laing D5 / DDC pumps resorts to anything of the sort. I'll just avoid everything with a Swiftech name on it just because of something like that.
Click to expand...

i highly doubt that is true, but as i dont work for swiftech i cant say for sure, ill see what bramsli1 says and let him make that call, with that said with all my interactions with swiftech i highly doubt that is the case, at all.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i highly doubt that is true, but as i dont work for swiftech i cant say for sure, ill see what bramsli1 says and let him make that call, with that said with all my interactions with swiftech i highly doubt that is the case, at all.


If it's not true then why would their warranty disclaimer that you quoted / linked to say exactly that?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> alright, now i see it. nice review. who gives it a final score of 8.8?


Thanks!









I do all the work(photos, testing, write-up), and have an editor employed by the site fix my bad grammar and such.









I'd love to do reviews full-time, but the money just isn't there in the way I need, so the past few months have seen very few reviews posted from me while I was in school, but since finals are next week, I've got back into action again, got another board review already waiting for the front page.

I also have all these sitting here waiting:










Now consider that I have all this hardware sitting here, and can pick and choose what I build with....and I choose the RIVBE for my personal rig. I'm still working through daily OC, but this might be my first 10/10 product review.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do all the work(photos, testing, write-up), and have an editor employed by the site fix my bad grammar and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to do reviews full-time, but the money just isn't there in the way I need, so the past few months have seen very few reviews posted from me while I was in school, but since finals are next week, I've got back into action again, got another board review already waiting for the front page.
> 
> I also have all these sitting here waiting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now consider that I have all this hardware sitting here, and can pick and choose what I build with....and I choose the RIVBE for my personal rig. I'm still working through daily OC, but this might be my first 10/10 product review.


To be honest, I;m somewhat disappointed with r4be. for example, less stable than r4e, buggy bios. the reboot issue during p95 tests really terrifies me.
OC panel is also quite disappointing, the temperature displayed is not accurate.
supreme audio is supposed to be a new selling-point.
however, with driver downloaded from asus support page, it has extremely strong echo. un-install the driver, everything sound ok.


----------



## cadaveca

Rebooting issue @ over 4.3 GHz on many chips seems to be a matter of finding the perfect settings. Yes, the BIOS is a bit raw, so to speak, but I did manage 4.6 GHz and 2666 C10 no problem prime-stable, which was a bit over my expectations for 24-7 on a such a new BIOS.

The OC panel thing...is really meant to be used for LN2, and to me, is more VGA-focused that CPU-focused. The temp display is definitely socket temps and not CPU temp, but I had used this OC panel with the Z87 Maximus VI Extreme already, so knew it's limitations very well.

So, I have to look at those issues, and say to myself, "what can be done to fix this, really? What would I change?

So BIOS...can be changed, easily. They just need time to test and validate before release ( Of course I am assuming that a BIOS is on it's way).

OC Panel temp...getting DTS sensor readings...doesn't seem like it'd be that easy anyway. Under LN2, the temp is close enough that it's useful, but also the K-type probe headers are what should be used to get accurate readings. I know that on Maximus VI Extreme, there is even a hole in socket so you can put one of those probes through the socket, and onto the back of the CPU...but I did not see such a hole on this board.

At least all the other features of the OC Panel are working fully, so that one minor issue doesn't bother me at all.

At the same time, I am watching all of you guys, and any issues that come up and aren't easily solved..yeah, those will affect my final score, and will be mentioned in the review.

But I don't see many people with issues, honestly.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Rebooting issue @ over 4.3 GHz on many chips seems to be a matter of finding the perfect settings. Yes, the BIOS is a bit raw, so to speak, but I did manage 4.6 GHz and 2666 C10 no problem prime-stable, which was a bit over my expectations for 24-7 on a such a new BIOS.
> 
> The OC panel thing...is really meant to be used for LN2, and to me, is more VGA-focused that CPU-focused. The temp display is definitely socket temps and not CPU temp, but I had used this OC panel with the Z87 Maximus VI Extreme already, so knew it's limitations very well.
> 
> So, I have to look at those issues, and say to myself, "what can be done to fix this, really? What would I change?
> 
> So BIOS...can be changed, easily. They just need time to test and validate before release ( Of course I am assuming that a BIOS is on it's way).
> 
> OC Panel temp...getting DTS sensor readings...doesn't seem like it'd be that easy anyway. Under LN2, the temp is close enough that it's useful, but also the K-type probe headers are what should be used to get accurate readings. I know that on Maximus VI Extreme, there is even a hole in socket so you can put one of those probes through the socket, and onto the back of the CPU...but I did not see such a hole on this board.
> 
> At least all the other features of the OC Panel are working fully, so that one minor issue doesn't bother me at all.
> 
> At the same time, I am watching all of you guys, and any issues that come up and aren't easily solved..yeah, those will affect my final score, and will be mentioned in the review.
> 
> But I don't see many people with issues, honestly.


4.6 GHz and 2666 C10 prime-stable, ohh,you are the man.








could you please post your bios setting







so that i can have something to guide my experiment with new r4be. If I recall correctly, you use corsair 2666c10 quad kit, right? could you also post the ram settings( including third timing settings)?














We use the same memory kit.
I just reported another unpleasant problem with supreme audio,


----------



## binormalkilla

I can't keep it stable past 4.5 without a hard reboot (no BSOD, just restarts), however this is with settings that are 18 hours prime 95 stable. Go figure. I feel that a BIOS update with fix this, but we'll see. Until then I'm happy with 4.5 GHz.

This rebooting behavior happens while browsing or playing bf4 (loading a map, not even in game)


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> I can't keep it stable past 4.5 without a hard reboot (no BSOD, just restarts), however this is with settings that are 18 hours prime 95 stable. Go figure. I feel that a BIOS update with fix this, but we'll see. Until then I'm happy with 4.5 GHz.
> 
> This rebooting behavior happens while browsing or playing bf4 (loading a map, not even in game)


I have difficulties with 4.5G, could you please post your bios setting of your 4.5G OC?


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I have difficulties with 4.5G, could you please post your bios setting of your 4.5G OC?


In out of town until Friday, but if you could pm me a list of all the BIOS settings I'll fill them in and post it here for reference. I remember the settings fairly well I think.


----------



## broken pixel

Wow! Finally people are posting about the random reeboots. I find the only way I do not get the RROD Is to use 4.0GHz with +0.005- 0.010 offset voltage and dont mess with LLC percents. I also notice my VID and CPU voltage max to 1.296v with LLC set to high. I dont need that much voltage for 4GHz lulz. On my RIVE I was IBT stable with only 1.328v for 4.7GHz. Im running a 3930k with a strong IMC.

ASUS we need a BIOS update stat.

P.S. For a while I thought I was in the watercooling forums. Hahahhahah!


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Wow! Finally people are posting about the random reeboots. I find the only way I do not get the RROD Is to use 4.0GHz with +0.005- 0.010 offset voltage and dont mess with LLC percents. I also notice my VID and CPU voltage max to 1.296v with LLC set to high. I dont need that much voltage for 4GHz lulz. On my RIVE I was IBT stable with only 1.328v for 4.7GHz. Im running a 3930k with a strong IMC.
> 
> ASUS we need a BIOS update stat.
> 
> P.S. For a while I thought I was in the watercooling forums. Hahahhahah!


I mentioned getting random reboots a few days ago, but that was before everyone got their board. The discussion was drowned out by shipping discussion


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> In out of town until Friday, but if you could pm me a list of all the BIOS settings I'll fill them in and post it here for reference. I remember the settings fairly well I think.


slightly disappointed, I still remember in the advert asus claims this mobo costs them 5x more engineering time.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> 4.6 GHz and 2666 C10 prime-stable, ohh,you are the man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> could you please post your bios setting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so that i can have something to guide my experiment with new r4be. If I recall correctly, you use corsair 2666c10 quad kit, right? could you also post the ram settings( including third timing settings)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We use the same memory kit.
> I just reported another unpleasant problem with supreme audio,


I'm not sure why so many people are having problems with this board. I managed to get a good CPU overclock and good RAM speeds with a handful of reboots. I didn't find the BIOS that bad at all, and this was as a X79 newbie coming directly from X58. ASUS's auto settings take care a of a hell of a lot.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> I'm not sure why so many people are having problems with this board. I managed to get a good CPU overclock and good RAM speeds with a handful of reboots. I didn't find the BIOS that bad at all, and this was as a X79 newbie coming directly from X58. ASUS's auto settings take care a of a hell of a lot.


I notice asus use 2 different cpu sockets, we also have users report here in the forum. Maybe that is the cause of problem, although it's unlikely.


----------



## 113802

Getting kinda annoyed with the board because before the splash screen appears it takes 30 seconds. Fast boot is enabled and I have only the boot drive and USB turn on at boot up.







With my Asus Maximus V Formula it takes like 15 seconds from hitting the power button to post!

Anyone have any information or do I sit tight and wait for a bios update?


----------



## Redshift 91

I had an odd issue with my board, all of a sudden, 8GB of memory vanished and cpu-z was reporting triple channel. After checking every dimm and both sets in quad channel and everything working, I reinserted every dimm and everything was back to normal, 32 GB and quad channel. It was super odd.

I have a huge issue with enabling the VRM into "Extreme" mode as soon as I stress test with an otherwise stable OC (4.4 at 1.35, remember, I'm using a 3930k) my system will just shut down, no BSoD. If I change the cpu current capability off of auto, it also shuts down from stress tests. I feel like this issue is limiting my overclock and with a bios update, I think this chip could go a lot further. I'd really like to see 4.6/4.7 after a couple of bioses are released.

Other than that, this board makes my MVG look like a children's toy. I'm definitly glad everytime I run the system, I'd just like to see the rough edges filed.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> This was linked in Titan club by Protoss, a guide from Overclockers.com ( my first haunt!)
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii/
> 
> Has a ton of good info.
> 
> JPMboy claims water wetter runs 2-3c cooler than just pure water in his system. (pure water is bad) I just read something I Have never read before, that I think very few people realize when recommending pure distilled water. Distilled water seeks to leach ions when warm/hot.


I was reading this guide, and I read this paragraph:

"Based on their structure, one chemist friend speculated they might be used to increase the boiling point and freezing point of water, but Red Line claims Water-Wetter doesn't significantly do that. What is clear, though, is that they are both small molecule, strong organic solvents, which could have detrimental affects on some plastics. This coincides with reports I have received from people experiencing problems when using Water-Wetter in systems that have Plexiglas (acrylic) reservoirs - significant crack formation and splitting joints. The ethers may also be related to the slimy coating reported by some that builds up on the inside surface of certain types of tubing (?)."

If I recall, you were doing a nearly full acrylic loop, unless your plan changed, the water wetter may destroy practically everything in you loop. I'm not sure though, since all I have to go on is other people's info and no experience.

I used mayhems xt-1 and the pastel coolants 125ml of each and 750 ml of water and I died it to my preference. I also used the masterkleer clear pvc tubing to avoid the mayhems pastel/ plasticiser issue. My loop's only been running for a week, but my loop is full copper/brass with a little bit of stainless steel, I think. I read somewhere that xspc uses a steel plate in the razer gpu line, but I'm not sure if it's in contact with the coolant.

http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/razor-gtx-titan-780

Also, I have the titan/ gtx 780 version and it looks like xspc significantly increased the size of the vrm channel, I'd bet it's nearly as good as ek's solution. However, these blocks were released after the waterblock shootout, so we don't know.


----------



## broken pixel

Anyone shed any light on the diff sockets? ASUS ROG forums wont load as usual.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I had an odd issue with my board, all of a sudden, 8GB of memory vanished and cpu-z was reporting triple channel. After checking every dimm and both sets in quad channel and everything working, I reinserted every dimm and everything was back to normal, 32 GB and quad channel. It was super odd.
> 
> I have a huge issue with enabling the VRM into "Extreme" mode as soon as I stress test with an otherwise stable OC (4.4 at 1.35, remember, I'm using a 3930k) my system will just shut down, no BSoD. If I change the cpu current capability off of auto, it also shuts down from stress tests. I feel like this issue is limiting my overclock and with a bios update, I think this chip could go a lot further. I'd really like to see 4.6/4.7 after a couple of bioses are released.
> 
> Other than that, this board makes my MVG look like a children's toy. I'm definitly glad everytime I run the system, I'd just like to see the rough edges filed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was reading this guide, and I read this paragraph:
> 
> "Based on their structure, one chemist friend speculated they might be used to increase the boiling point and freezing point of water, but Red Line claims Water-Wetter doesn't significantly do that. What is clear, though, is that they are both small molecule, strong organic solvents, which could have detrimental affects on some plastics. This coincides with reports I have received from people experiencing problems when using Water-Wetter in systems that have Plexiglas (acrylic) reservoirs - significant crack formation and splitting joints. The ethers may also be related to the slimy coating reported by some that builds up on the inside surface of certain types of tubing (?)."
> 
> If I recall, you were doing a nearly full acrylic loop, unless your plan changed, the water wetter may destroy practically everything in you loop. I'm not sure though, since all I have to go on is other people's info and no experience.
> 
> I used mayhems xt-1 and the pastel coolants 125ml of each and 750 ml of water and I died it to my preference. I also used the masterkleer clear pvc tubing to avoid the mayhems pastel/ plasticiser issue. My loop's only been running for a week, but my loop is full copper/brass with a little bit of stainless steel, I think. I read somewhere that xspc uses a steel plate in the razer gpu line, but I'm not sure if it's in contact with the coolant.
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/razor-gtx-titan-780
> 
> Also, I have the titan/ gtx 780 version and it looks like xspc significantly increased the size of the vrm channel, I'd bet it's nearly as good as ek's solution. However, these blocks were released after the waterblock shootout, so we don't know.


does your pc shut down instantly once you run p95? yes so, same problem here.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Getting kinda annoyed with the board because before the splash screen appears it takes 30 seconds. Fast boot is enabled and I have only the boot drive and USB turn on at boot up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With my Asus Maximus V Formula it takes like 15 seconds from hitting the power button to post!
> 
> Anyone have any information or do I sit tight and wait for a bios update?


To be frank, the amount of controllers and stuff in this board makes the maximus v formula look silly. The post takes a lot longer because there is a lot of crap to check. If you disable some of the controllers, you may get a faster post. I think Asus will make it better after a few bios updates, also, consider how stable these boards are, my memory isn't even stated as being supported and xmp loads and the pc still boots. Just compare that to the evga x79 darks bios bug thread, we got off pretty easy to have a slow post.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> does your pc shut down instantly once you run p95? yes so, same problem here.


Yeah, same issue.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Anyone shed any light on the diff sockets? ASUS ROG forums wont load as usual.


different manufacturing

The only thing acrylic in my loop is the res. I know many people who have used 5% water wetter for years. I'm going with liquid utopia.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> different manufacturing
> 
> The only thing acrylic in my loop is the res. I know many people who have used 5% water wetter for years. I'm going with liquid utopia.


okay, I couldn't remember. I also wasn't sure if the acrylic issue was bad or not. Good luck with finishing the build, it seems like you've run into a problem at every turn.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> okay, I couldn't remember. I also wasn't sure if the acrylic issue was bad or not. Good luck with finishing the build, it seems like you've run into a problem at every turn.


adversity, strength, & stuff..

Went to home depot, purchased all the stuff necessarry to build a rad flushing device w/ high grade water filter & pond pump.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Yeah, same issue.


did you guys disable OVP/OCP? Anti-Surge protection option in BIOS should fix that...did with earlier ASUS X79 boards, including the P9X79 Deluxe that I used for a long long time until recently.

Of course, YMMV, and you know the disclaimer about killing stuff...


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> did you guys disable OVP/OCP? Anti-Surge protection option in BIOS should fix that...did with earlier ASUS X79 boards, including the P9X79 Deluxe that I used for a long long time until recently.
> 
> Of course, YMMV, and you know the disclaimer about killing stuff...


could you please post your bios setting so that i can have something to guide my experiment with new r4be. If I recall correctly, you use corsair 2666c10 quad kit, right? could you also post the ram settings( including third timing settings)? We use the same memory kit.


----------



## centvalny

In bios, Set dram training to ignore/disabled to help speed up boot time


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> did you guys disable OVP/OCP? Anti-Surge protection option in BIOS should fix that...did with earlier ASUS X79 boards, including the P9X79 Deluxe that I used for a long long time until recently.
> 
> Of course, YMMV, and you know the disclaimer about killing stuff...


Could turning up the current capability kill anything if you don't increase the voltage? I've never really played with these settings other than seeing them shut the system down. I'll play with the bios after I get done with work today.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

In digipower set llc to ultra high or above and cpu to 180% and try I had similar issues but these settings worked for me lower llc would just crash.

Sent from my HTC Butterfly s using Tapatalk


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> could you please post your bios setting so that i can have something to guide my experiment with new r4be. If I recall correctly, you use corsair 2666c10 quad kit, right? could you also post the ram settings( including third timing settings)? We use the same memory kit.


Sure, once I get back to that rig. I did see your request earlier, and I didn't ignore it..just can't do it right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Could turning up the current capability kill anything if you don't increase the voltage? I've never really played with these settings other than seeing them shut the system down. I'll play with the bios after I get done with work today.


CPU "pulls" current, board doesn't provide it without that "pull", but at the same time, board can limit amount it gives.

What's interesting is that I have multiple chips that start this problem @ 4.3 GHz, all clock differently and need different voltage for that 4.3 GHz, so it's not really just a VRM setting to get real stability. Oh look, ASUS recommends 4.3 GHz.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If it's not true then why would their warranty disclaimer that you quoted / linked to say exactly that?


What the warranty basically states is that if you use a third party housing you're basically voiding your warranty on our pump. The issue stems from manufacturers producing tops that cause the pump to operate outside of Laing's specified design parameters. Due to this we can't honor our warranty if the pump has been disassembled and used with a third party top.

Our own tops are a different story. We adhere very closely to Laing's specified design parameters and therefore use of our pumps with our own tops won't void your warranty. The exception to this is if the top is improperly installed. If you cross-thread the screws or end up cracking the top due to applying too much force, this will also void our warranty. If our top leaks though, that's on us. I won't have any problem issuing an RMA for a pump that leaked after one of our own tops was installed on it properly. In fact, I've done this a couple of times when we had a bad batch of MCP35X2 pump tops that didn't sit properly on the pumps.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What the warranty basically states is that if you use a third party housing you're basically voiding your warranty on our pump. The issue stems from manufacturers producing tops that cause the pump to operate outside of Laing's specified design parameters. Due to this we can't honor our warranty if the pump has been disassembled and used with a third party top.
> 
> Our own tops are a different story. We adhere very closely to Laing's specified design parameters and therefore use of our pumps with our own tops won't void your warranty. The exception to this is if the top is improperly installed. If you cross-thread the screws or end up cracking the top due to applying too much force, this will also void our warranty. If our top leaks though, that's on us. I won't have any problem issuing an RMA for a pump that leaked after one of our own tops was installed on it properly. In fact, I've done this a couple of times when we had a bad batch of MCP35X2 pump tops that didn't sit properly on the pumps.


It's nice to see a rep chime in, and the reasoning is sound. I bought the monsoon d5 bay res and there was a slim red o ring that warned that you could damage the pump by placing the impeller to close to the opening, this supposedly improved flow, but could kill your pump. I opted to use the o ring that came with the stock pump top to increase the distance more than even the thickest o-ring provided by monsoon. However, since I was using a non swiftech top, I went with the koolance d5 vario, which to my understanding, Koolance honors the warrenty on any pump regardless of the top used.


----------



## Aftermath2006

So what would the proper spacing be for 2 sli graphics cards on the BE trying to buy a water block connector and im not really getting the wording is it 4 slot spacing 2 slots between


----------



## Arm3nian

Anyone know the recommended max load temperature and max 24/7 voltage on ivy-e?

So far my chip can do 4.7 @1.4, no idea if I can use a lower voltage, just threw 1.4 and 4.7 and it seems stable.
Haven't touched any setting on the motherboard except llc and I put that on high.
Max temp is 70c, this is with my bottom 480 rad running only 3 fans and my top 480 rad only running 1 fan because connecting it to the other motherboard header makes the fans spin at weird rpms and makes an annoying noise, will get 3pin to molex adapters and just run 12v. Also, the high temperature is probably because I reversed the inlet and outlet on the cpu block so the water is going straight into the side of the block instead the center...


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Anyone know the recommended max load temperature and max 24/7 voltage on ivy-e?


I'd know it when I'd get the board.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

And i know it jet, 75-80°C dont go over 80°C.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> So what would the proper spacing be for 2 sli graphics cards on the BE trying to buy a water block connector and im not really getting the wording is it 4 slot spacing 2 slots between


Funny, we were just talking about that in another thread lol. you are correct it will be a four slot spacing, but there will be 3 slots in between, even if there's nothing on the board.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Anyone know the recommended max load temperature and max 24/7 voltage on ivy-e?
> 
> So far my chip can do 4.7 @1.4, no idea if I can use a lower voltage, just threw 1.4 and 4.7 and it seems stable.
> Haven't touched any setting on the motherboard except llc and I put that on high.
> Max temp is 70c, this is with my bottom 480 rad running only 3 fans and my top 480 rad only running 1 fan because connecting it to the other motherboard header makes the fans spin at weird rpms and makes an annoying noise, will get 3pin to molex adapters and just run 12v. Also, the high temperature is probably because I reversed the inlet and outlet on the cpu block so the water is going straight into the side of the block instead the center...


Have you considered getting a small fan controller to control the fans that way you can turn them up and down as needed...

The only fans I have ever ran from a motherboard header is the CPU fan. rad fans never. they are doing this because the motherboard is looking at the RPM of all of them and trying to compensate the fans so that they maintain same RPM. hard to do this on a rad. better to use voltage to set speed of them. just get RPM signal from 1 and set the Voltage to what you want the RPM's to be and ten set the other 2 at the same voltage.

If you are going to 1 header with RPM from all 3 fans or to one header with RPM from 2 fans it will do this because it is confused. getting 2 different speed signals!!


----------



## broken pixel

Testing 3930k @ 4.5GHz/ 2133MHz +0.020 with LLC High % Auto and whatever lets me select optimize. Core and VID read 1.311v. 4.4GHz seemed fine at +0.010 but 4.5 did not like it. I choose to OC with offset voltage settings.









All these random reboots will mess up the windows file system so I recomend running cmd admin sfc /scannow. After many random reboots sfc scannow will find files it cannot repair.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> So what would the proper spacing be for 2 sli graphics cards on the BE trying to buy a water block connector and im not really getting the wording is it 4 slot spacing 2 slots between


For BE, if you are looking to use both 16x slots, it's 3 slot. If you are using EK blocks you would need this unit, & a blank to cover the middle holes.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18974/ex-blc-1422/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19690/ex-blc-1448/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Blank_Parallel_EK-FC_Terminal_BLANK_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060








\


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> And i know it jet, 75-80°C dont go over 80°C.


So I guess ivy-e is the same as ivy? If it is then 1.52 should be the max for the voltage, the wc profile on the rivbe puts the cpu voltage at 1.55, seems rather high.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Have you considered getting a small fan controller to control the fans that way you can turn them up and down as needed...
> 
> The only fans I have ever ran from a motherboard header is the CPU fan. rad fans never. they are doing this because the motherboard is looking at the RPM of all of them and trying to compensate the fans so that they maintain same RPM. hard to do this on a rad. better to use voltage to set speed of them. just get RPM signal from 1 and set the Voltage to what you want the RPM's to be and ten set the other 2 at the same voltage.
> 
> If you are going to 1 header with RPM from all 3 fans or to one header with RPM from 2 fans it will do this because it is confused. getting 2 different speed signals!!


I don't like the idea of fans ramping up in speed when I do something, which is why I went water. Since my fans are already quiet at 12v I don't mind them.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I have difficulties with 4.5G, could you please post your bios setting of your 4.5G OC?


I don't read anything in your complaints that could be attributed to the board it's self. Those are all common issues with a brand new motherboard. OG Rive is on it's 1,000,000 bios revolution, it was also a buggy mess when it first released. As to the sound card, that's a really common problem iv'e experienced it with many different drivers on my maximus V formula. Corsair surround drivers, asus surround drivers, I would just use the provided realtek software on the disk.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

This are the official Intel specs for Ivy-E.

Max Vcore is 1,4V !



Source :
http://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/datasheets/4th-gen-core-i7-lga2011-datasheet-vol-1.pdf

Easy Overclocking Guide from [email protected]

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition


----------



## Aftermath2006

so would this be the one i need for AC blocks for the Black Editions spacing

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16038_Aquacomputer-kryoconnect-kit-for-kryographics-with-active-back-plates--width-4-slots-for-2-graphics-cards.html


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> so would this be the one i need for AC blocks for the Black Editions spacing
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16038_Aquacomputer-kryoconnect-kit-for-kryographics-with-active-back-plates--width-4-slots-for-2-graphics-cards.html


Sounds like it. The info reads "for three unused slots"


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> This are the official Intel specs for Ivy-E.
> 
> Max Vcore is 1,4V !
> 
> 
> 
> Source :
> http://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/datasheets/4th-gen-core-i7-lga2011-datasheet-vol-1.pdf
> 
> Easy Overclocking Guide from [email protected]
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition


You can usually go past that a few volts w/o anything major as long as you're not running really high temps. But according to that seems like I'm going to be at 4.7 since 4.8 at 1.4 was instant crash when prime loaded. This is with no changes on the motherboard though, I should be able to go higher even with 1.4v.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> so would this be the one i need for AC blocks for the Black Editions spacing
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16038_Aquacomputer-kryoconnect-kit-for-kryographics-with-active-back-plates--width-4-slots-for-2-graphics-cards.html


That the one


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> You can usually go past that a few volts w/o anything major as long as you're not running really high temps. But according to that seems like I'm going to be at 4.7 since 4.8 at 1.4 was instant crash when prime loaded. This is with no changes on the motherboard though, I should be able to go higher even with 1.4v.


I actually would not try to go a few volts past that as then you would be at 2.4 or 3.4v seems kind of high to me??


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I actually would not try to go a few volts past that as then you would be at 2.4 or 3.4v seems kind of high to me??


Lol I've seen 2.1+ on ivy in the delidded club








But yeah what I meant was a couple of centivolts


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Lol I've seen 2.1+ on ivy in the delidded club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah what I meant was a couple of centivolts


Sorry could not help it and also did not want someone to see this and fry something!!!

We all make Typos or mistakes like that. Any more overclocking?? at what speed have are you running the memory at?


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> You can usually go past that a few volts w/o anything major as long as you're not running really high temps. But according to that seems like I'm going to be at 4.7 since 4.8 at 1.4 was instant crash when prime loaded. This is with no changes on the motherboard though, I should be able to go higher even with 1.4v.


It is known that the 3930K Sandy E struggling with 1,45 v Vcore or higher strongly with electromigration,
is the same at Ivy E certainly the case with high voltages.
The difference is that Sandy E is manufactured in 32nm and 22nm Ivy E.
Ivy E is not strong and resilient with the voltages like Sandy E it is.
1,4V is got for 24/7 higher will degree the structure very quickly.

*Better temperatures do not improve or lower the electromigration, electromigration is only voltage dependent.*


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> This are the official Intel specs for Ivy-E.
> 
> Max Vcore is 1,4V !
> 
> 
> 
> Source :
> http://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/datasheets/4th-gen-core-i7-lga2011-datasheet-vol-1.pdf


People should also read this, which goes with that chart:


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sorry could not help it and also did not want someone to see this and fry something!!!
> 
> We all make Typos or mistakes like that. Any more overclocking?? at what speed have are you running the memory at?


More volts just implies more voltage doesn't mean the value of one volt.

Anyway, running the trident x at 2400 9-11-11-31-1T no problems. I can probably get more than 4.7 once I mess with the settings, haven't really touched anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> It is known that the 3930K Sandy E struggling with 1,45 v Vcore or higher strongly with electromigration,
> is the same at Ivy E certainly the case with high voltages.
> The difference is that Sandy E is manufactured in 32nm and 22nm Ivy E.
> Ivy E is not strong and resilient with the voltages like Sandy E it is.
> 1,4V is got for 24/7 higher will degree the structure very quickly.
> 
> Better temperatures do not improve or lower the electromigration, electromigration is only voltage dependent.


Personally I've seen many go over the intel specs without any problems. If you go a little over you might reduce life but it isn't anything dramatic. 3770k had a limit of 1.52 I ran mine at 1.55 for a while and saw no degration. I doubt anyone wanting an overclock that high or buying this board is going to keep this chip long enough to see the effects of the phenomenon you're talking about.

As for the temps, If I was going to run 1.45 I'd feel better if my temps were around 55 compared to 80+


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> More volts just implies more voltage doesn't mean the value of one volt.
> 
> Anyway, running the trident x at 2400 9-11-11-31-1T no problems. I can probably get more than 4.7 once I mess with the settings, haven't really touched anything.
> Personally I've seen many go over the intel specs without any problems. If you go a little over you might reduce life but it isn't anything dramatic. 3770k had a limit of 1.52 I ran mine at 1.55 for a while and saw no degration. I doubt anyone wanting an overclock that high or buying this board is going to keep this chip long enough to see the effects of the phenomenon you're talking about.
> 
> As for the temps, If I was going to run 1.45 I'd feel better if my temps were around 55 compared to 80+


you are right that really the most important thing at small amounts of voltage (100 mv to 500mv and that is .1 to .5) over the rating is heat. If you can keep it cool enough I don't see where it will cause any problems or degradation that a normal enthusiast would ever see as you will be changing your CPU out in 6 months to a year I would bet!!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> you are right that really the most important thing at small amounts of voltage (100 mv to 500mv and that is .1 to .5) over the rating is heat. If you can keep it cool enough I don't see where it will cause any problems or degradation that a normal enthusiast would ever see as you will be changing your CPU out in 6 months to a year I would bet!!


Exaclty, since heat rises exponentially with more volts, and high heat causes degration, the lower the temps the better if running water with high volts. With sub zero the low temps slow down the electromigration, which is why people with ln2 can run 2+ volts without instant degration.

If you are a user looking for top bench scores on water then using volts past the intel spec is an option, because the truth is while it does decrease the life of your chip, it isn't instant and can allow for high clocks.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't read anything in your complaints that could be attributed to the board it's self. Those are all common issues with a brand new motherboard. OG Rive is on it's 1,000,000 bios revolution, it was also a buggy mess when it first released. As to the sound card, that's a really common problem iv'e experienced it with many different drivers on my maximus V formula. Corsair surround drivers, asus surround drivers, I would just use the provided realtek software on the disk.


I agree when r4e first came out, it was quite buggy. However, r4be is based on old r4e design. It surprises me to see so many issues with r4be.
Remember what did asus claim in the advert? 5 times more engineering time; entire ROG team only focus on this single board. So, apparently, I expect r4be would definitely outperform the old r4e.:


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Hi everyone !

My Backplatmod test is out. Go in my Buildlog an see if it works.

Link is in the signature ! Have fun to read !


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't read anything in your complaints that could be attributed to the board it's self. Those are all common issues with a brand new motherboard. OG Rive is on it's 1,000,000 bios revolution, it was also a buggy mess when it first released. As to the sound card, that's a really common problem iv'e experienced it with many different drivers on my maximus V formula. Corsair surround drivers, asus surround drivers, I would just use the provided realtek software on the disk.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree when r4e first came out, it was quite buggy. However, r4be is based on old r4e design. It surprises me to see so many issues with r4be.
> Remember what did asus claim in the advert? 5 times more engineering time; entire ROG team only focus on this single board. So, apparently, I expect r4be would definitely outperform the old r4e.:
Click to expand...

huh? yea cause you know the engineers can test thousands of different configs every day , so they should have no problems what so ever









and to my knowledge rivbe is not based on old design and has been completely redesigned.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? yea cause you know the engineers can test thousands of different configs every day , so they should have no problems what so ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and to my knowledge rivbe is not based on old design and has been completely redesigned.


yes it's re-design with add-on of some new features, my point is asus has tons of stuff to learn from old r4e, and in such way, avoid repeating the same problem with r4e. do you agree?


----------



## Mega Man

no, this board was completely redesigned from the ground up, as was the CVFz from the CVF


----------



## broken pixel

Im thinking the LLC is buggy with 0403 BIOS.


----------



## bastian

Anyone who is having issues with the Black with random reboots or anything else, Raja from ASUS has instructed someone start a new thread over at the ASUS ROG Rampage Forum, and include system specs and BIOS settings.
Quote:


> *[email protected]*
> They need to post on ROG Forums if they want such support (better on ROG coswe can atleast track users by region there). Tell them to start a thread and list all system specifics (all UEFI changes, parts used etc.). Can't be sending HQ on a goose chase with partial info. Incorrectly set DRAM voltages and VCCSA can cause reBOOTs with some modules rather than BSOD as well.
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1651429&page=39


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no, this board was completely redesigned from the ground up, as was the CVFz from the CVF


it's still a x79 mobo, so, did you want to say, after design of all those x79 mobo, asus has nothing to learn from previous design?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Im thinking the LLC is buggy with 0403 BIOS.


possibly


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Exaclty, since heat rises exponentially with more volts, and high heat causes degration, the lower the temps the better if running water with high volts. With sub zero the low temps slow down the electromigration, which is why people with ln2 can run 2+ volts without instant degration.
> 
> If you are a user looking for top bench scores on water then using volts past the intel spec is an option, because the truth is while it does decrease the life of your chip, it isn't instant and can allow for high clocks.


I'm not sure why you even bothered asking for people's feedback, on safe temps and voltages, when you already have an opinion that you're going to stick to.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> yes it's re-design with add-on of some new features, my point is asus has tons of stuff to learn from old r4e, and in such way, avoid repeating the same problem with r4e. do you agree?


Try putting yourself into a developers shoes. Then think about how you would make a perfect board, then realize it's not possible but with time you can eventually have something amazing with minimal issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no, this board was completely redesigned from the ground up, as was the CVFz from the CVF


This all the way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> it's still a x79 mobo, so, did you want to say, after design of all those x79 mobo, asus has nothing to learn from previous design?


You're arguing to argue in this case, every new board will start out w/ issues, and slowly get fixed over time, it's more and more prevelant with the more users push their machines, with all different types of hardware mixing and matching there are bound to be compatibility and other issues. It's only from a larger community posting feedback and updating that these get ironed out. This is a new board, this is for a NEW Revision that JUST came out, so there is still much work to put into with updates to ensure better overclocks, more compatibility and more, the plethora of options already shows that they got off with a great start.

I don't expect it to work perfectly ESPECIALLY after only 1 small bios release. I do however expect most issues to be ironed out JUST like any other board in the past within the next 3-4 updates. I'm pretty sure the next update will fix most reported issues, and anything else will be to either support something new or handle things better.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Try putting yourself into a developers shoes. Then think about how you would make a perfect board, then realize it's not possible but with time you can eventually have something amazing with minimal issue.
> This all the way.
> You're arguing to argue in this case, every new board will start out w/ issues, and slowly get fixed over time, it's more and more prevelant with the more users push their machines, with all different types of hardware mixing and matching there are bound to be compatibility and other issues. It's only from a larger community posting feedback and updating that these get ironed out. This is a new board, this is for a NEW Revision that JUST came out, so there is still much work to put into with updates to ensure better overclocks, more compatibility and more, the plethora of options already shows that they got off with a great start.
> 
> I don't expect it to work perfectly ESPECIALLY after only 1 small bios release. I do however expect most issues to be ironed out JUST like any other board in the past within the next 3-4 updates. I'm pretty sure the next update will fix most reported issues, and anything else will be to either support something new or handle things better.


i understand your point, however, Asus sent out testing mobo to professional OCers several months ago,I just cannot believe the retail version still suffers from fundamental problems, like reboot issues reported here.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> i understand your point, however, Asus sent out testing mobo to professional OCers several months ago,I just cannot believe the retail version still suffers from fundamental problems, like reboot issues reported here.


Sending out to a group of 6 people for OC'ing gets great results for OC'ing though the IVY-E chips weren't released until 2 months ago. So what the others were working w/ were prior chips which is why people are having somewhat better results.

5 people != 1000's that buy the board and try 1000's of different configurations, the people that tested on them, went with the best of best they could fathom, which not everyone can afford or chooses to do w/ the quantity or quality of what's out there. The real deal starts after most of the critical issues are passed, afterwards its up to users, and MORE feedback is posted, this is the next stage of Q&A pretty much.

+ Hardware can be to blame as well not always the motherboard, though in other cases yes, in other cases just BAD silicon lottery. It happens. You need to give it a bit as they're in the process of data mining from all users that have now purchased it and I guarantee their next Bios update should be huge to encompass many of the concerns and new hardware. IVY-E is brand new so yeah it's going to take a bit, they had no way to 100% guess on it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> i understand your point, however, Asus sent out testing mobo to professional OCers several months ago,I just cannot believe the retail version still suffers from fundamental problems, like reboot issues reported here.


Are any of the reboot issues happening to those who aren't overclocking the CPU or playing with the timings on their ram? I think it's like TTL said, this board is _completely_ different overclocking than the RIVE or any other board he's used in the past, and I suspect the reboot issues may be more related to so many not understanding what they are doing with it yet.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sending out to a group of 6 people for OC'ing gets great results for OC'ing though the IVY-E chips weren't released until 2 months ago. So what the others were working w/ were prior chips which is why people are having somewhat better results.
> 
> 5 people != 1000's that buy the board and try 1000's of different configurations, the people that tested on them, went with the best of best they could fathom, which not everyone can afford or chooses to do w/ the quantity or quality of what's out there. The real deal starts after most of the critical issues are passed, afterwards its up to users, and MORE feedback is posted, this is the next stage of Q&A pretty much.
> 
> + Hardware can be to blame as well not always the motherboard, though in other cases yes, in other cases just BAD silicon lottery. It happens. You need to give it a bit as they're in the process of data mining from all users that have now purchased it and I guarantee their next Bios update should be huge to encompass many of the concerns and new hardware. IVY-E is brand new so yeah it's going to take a bit, they had no way to 100% guess on it.


you sure only a group of 6 people had it before launch?
I bet Asus sent out more 'engineering samples' than the number you mentioned. So several rounds of 'feedback and improve' have already been done. So it surprises me to see retail version still has fundamental problems, like reboot.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Are any of the reboot issues happening to those who aren't overclocking the CPU or playing with the timings on their ram? I think it's like TTL said, this board is _completely_ different overclocking than the RIVE or any other board he's used in the past, and I suspect the reboot issues may be more related to so many not understanding what they are doing with it yet.


So far, no reboot issue if 'load optimized settings'


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Are any of the reboot issues happening to those who aren't overclocking the CPU or playing with the timings on their ram? I think it's like TTL said, this board is _completely_ different overclocking than the RIVE or any other board he's used in the past, and I suspect the reboot issues may be more related to so many not understanding what they are doing with it yet.


I think you're right. The only time get any reboot issues is if I don't give the CPU enough Vcore either through voltage settings or not setting LLC high enough. I was having some problems with the offset before I understood how to use it, but again, this all has to do with settings that influence voltage.


----------



## skupples

I really don't see any issues that are normal oc problems.
This is what we like to call early adopter issues. Go file complaints @ asus. Do your part to get the "problems" known

if I'm not mistaken be there is shoes the plague every single or would you bored that's come out in the past 3 yearsthe amount of money required to test every possible hardware configuration would make the process unprofitable and companies exist to make money. This is why many many people wait 2 or 3 months to buy anything in this field


----------



## binormalkilla

Here is a custom version of aida64 made for our board. Definitely renewing my license after seeing this kind of support. (Assuming it works







)
http://users.aida64.com/aida64extreme_build_2721_r4be.zip


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Here is a custom version of aida64 made for our board. Definitely renewing my license after seeing this kind of support. (Assuming it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> http://users.aida64.com/aida64extreme_build_2721_r4be.zip


it works


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it can, ANY mixed metals can, even brass and copper, if you have not read it here is a great read on galvanic corrosion
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
> i think the only exception is gold, which i have heard does not corrode.


Gold plated things still have issues. I remember how I lost gold plating on my teaspoon I used to eat yogurt. Dry it immediately after washing, and never leave it in the water for too long.


----------



## LunaP

Welp after further research found out some interesting tidbits, and Skupps I know you were considering this too, but witheld due to lack of information circulating at the time.

In regards to Stren's test, been reading up further on his after notes and other posts from many people that took the XSPC route.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stren*
> Core temps are so close that it's tempting to ignore and choose on VRM temps and aesthetics. However if I were running 3 in parallel I probably would avoid the EK and run the XSPC due to EK's poor core temps at low flow. Not many of us can afford three titans though lol.
> 
> Yeah it all depends if you want better core temps or VRM/VRAM temps. The XSPC is a good choice, *bear in mind my testing was done without backplate*. *Presumably the backplate helps the VRAM temps. You could even get some extra thermal pads and hit up the back of the VRM section too for extra cooling there.*


Further responses from some
Quote:


> I'm using the XSPC Titan block on my 780 and the results are fantastic! Full load (Furmark, Heaven 4.0, 3dmark 11, anything I can throw at it) never budges from 38 degrees C with boost clocks as high as 1293/6608 and 1.212V.


So yeah I think I'll join in and test + it's copper that I won't be able to see so no complains there, the thin line lighting will look amazing in my build vs a huge glowing block 3 lol. Hope this helps. I can post source and additional if you need.


----------



## bastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Are any of the reboot issues happening to those who aren't overclocking the CPU or playing with the timings on their ram? I think it's like TTL said, this board is _completely_ different overclocking than the RIVE or any other board he's used in the past, and I suspect the reboot issues may be more related to so many not understanding what they are doing with it yet.


Seems more people with SB-E are rebooting.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> Seems more people with SB-E are rebooting.


Didn't have that problem with SB-E myself, only IVB-E. However, 0403 wasn't out when I tested SB-E, and I am using that one now. RIVBE actually clocked SB-E much better than my P9X79 deluxe...but memory flexibility was better on P9X79 Deluxe(with SB-E).

Did my IVB-E testing on 0208, had no problems, then flashed to 0403 when boards went retail, and the issue came up.

Or perhaps I hadn't pushed hard enough on 0208...but I don't think that's the case.

But since I changed BIOS, I just looked for settings to change, and am now stable.

I enabled PLL termination voltage, set to 1.4V, and adjusted CPU LLC to high, while manually changing volts to 1.35V for 4.6 GHz. XMP was enabled and that is all.

But then I tried for more, and reset BIOS, and reboots began. So I thought perhaps VRM settings are not re-adjusting properly in every instance, since my crashes, when I had them, seem very much related to IMC/VCCSA.

Setting VCCSA loadline to improper setting also causes no boot when clocking memory over 2133 MHz.


----------



## bastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Didn't have that problem with SB-E myself, only IVB-E. However, 0403 wasn't out when I tested SB-E, and I am using that one now. RIVBE actually clocked SB-E much better than my P9X79 deluxe...but memory flexibility was better on P9X79 Deluxe(with SB-E).


Yeah, I was just going by the last couple pages of users with specs listed that are using SB-E. It could be happening just as often with IB-E users. Whats important is everyone reports it over at the ASUS ROG Forum as the ASUS rep there needs more reports and info to take back to HQ.

I had the rebooting with my system beyond 40x100. Now with some Vcore, VTT, VCCSA tweaking I am stable at 45x100 with my 3930k on the Black. I have Vcore under 1.4v and VTT/VCCSA are being kept under 1.2v. I even adjusted PLL voltage, but not much, keeping it between 1.8v-1.85v. I also have LLC set to High, CPU Current 150%. VCCSA current 130%. DRAM current 130%.

I found with Auto settings and VTT/VCCSA they were not properly tuning voltages based on clock speeds like it should. From what Raja said Auto is being more tuned to IB-E than SB-E. With the Black and SB-E you should rely less on Auto settings if you want better stability/performance. Here is exactly what he said:
Quote:


> *[email protected]*
> The auto scaling is for Ivy_E, so that makes sense. Users upgrading to the board for SNB-E are in the minority and I'll deal with the support cases online if they need help tuning.
> 
> I've reported the 1MHz situation to HQ. Not sure that's our fault or MS's right now. If it's ours I'll push them to patch.
> 
> EDIT: speed reporting will be patched in a furture UEFI update for the X79 boards. Apparently this is related to EIST being disabled somehow. Don't have an ETA for the fix, but it's in the pipeline.


----------



## skupples

and that is why I'm using a dual pump and not putting my motherboard in the same loop. With the way we volt our titans vrm and vram is more important than 2-4c on the core. I'm sure more info will be put on the new xspc blocks by the time I replace titans on 2015.









Ek has pushed eol on the nickel acetal full cover blocks


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> I'm not sure why you even bothered asking for people's feedback, on safe temps and voltages, when you already have an opinion that you're going to stick to.


There isn't an opinion on a safe voltage, the safe voltage is 1.40, I personally am going to try and stay at that. My point is that for those who want to go above it for benchmarks are free to do so because they won't instantly kill their processor.

The reason I asked was because specs sheet don't always apply to enthusiasts. Nvidia cards come with 1.175 max or near that, do people stay at that? no.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> There isn't an opinion on a safe voltage, the safe voltage is 1.40, I personally am going to try and stay at that. My point is that for those who want to go above it for benchmarks are free to do so because they won't instantly kill their processor.
> 
> The reason I asked was because specs sheet don't always apply to enthusiasts. Nvidia cards come with 1.175 max or near that, do people stay at that? no.


1.4v is general concious and I don't pass that for 24/7 clocks in fact I run 1.23v 24/7 @ 4.3 but when I do benchs my water is at 1-3 degrees C and I do push 1.55- 1.6 core temps stay in 40s peak temperature is the major factor. I wouldn't run over 1.4v possibly 1.45 with a good custom loop and low core temps but other then my short benchs I never run the voltage high as I see no difference in gaming 4.3 and up until I hit 5 ghz


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> 1.4v is general concious and I don't pass that for 24/7 clocks in fact I run 1.23v 24/7 @ 4.3 but when I do benchs my water is at 1-3 degrees C and I do push 1.55- 1.6 core temps stay in 40s peak temperature is the major factor. I wouldn't run over 1.4v possibly 1.45 with a good custom loop and low core temps but other then my short benchs I never run the voltage high as I see no difference in gaming 4.3 and up until I hit 5 ghz


No reason to run over 1.4 for gaming. Running more is for people wanting high scores on benches on water.


----------



## szeged

no fun in overclocking if you play it safe


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> I found with Auto settings and VTT/VCCSA they were not properly tuning voltages based on clock speeds like it should. From what Raja said Auto is being more tuned to IB-E than SB-E. With the Black and SB-E you should rely less on Auto settings if you want better stability/performance. Here is exactly what he said:


Yeah, you just need to tweak for stability, and that's no problem, if you know what crashes need what. I know it's loadline on VCCSA/CPU for me, and more memory, too. I try memory-only OC, reboots happen at anything over 2400 MHz.. CPU-only, reboots at anything over 4.3 GHz. Both together...no reboots until pushed a bit past what I'd call conservative clocking.

So, I find that 4.3 GHz stable, 2400 MHz, start pulling voltages down, one by one, until stability is lost. When lost, boost back up a couple of steps, and then move to next voltage.

So, I get 4.3 GHz stable on one chip @ 1.20V. set 4.4, instant BSOD, x124. boost voltage up, one step at a time, reboot, reboot, reboot, but after 5 minutes on third voltage boost, set 1.2375, and it lasts for a while, 30 minutes. try 1.25, reboots at 45 minutes.. 1.2625, reboots after 5 minutes. 1.3 V..instant reboot.

So, try another chip. get 4.3 stable @ 1.275V, repeat same process, same result.

Third chip, OK, 4.3 stable @ 1.150V! Nice! 4.4...forget it.

So, too much, or too little voltage, and you're screwed. But voltage is not all...

So, back to first chip, working on 4.4 GHz at same 1.25V. noticed that voltage boosts up on load, VRM is set to auto...so extreme or very high is set. Set high, what I set is what I get, and oh look..it's stable!

try 4.5 GHz, 1.325V same problem, reboots. Stability is close, but not 100%. try lowering ram speed...less stable. try other ram kit, more stable...

Hmm, so memory needs severe tweaks to, eh?

I start playing with VCCSA loadline and current limits...

and it's stable!!!! boost up to 4.6 GHz....stable, no problem, runs overnight P95.

take my kids to school, go to school myself, come back home, turn rig on...fire up BF4...reboot.

ARGH!!!!

lol.

So, I try the other chips, again, just cannot get stable.

It's a difficult journey, but there IS a definite end to it...I can't say that for everyone settings alone can do it..it might require a new BIOS. I enjoy all the tweaking anyway, so don't really care too much as ASUS has a decent track record of solving these sorts of issues.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> take my kids to school, go to school myself, come back home, turn rig on...fire up BF4...reboot.
> 
> ARGH!!!!
> 
> lol.
> 
> So, I try the other chips, again, just cannot get stable.
> 
> It's a difficult journey, but there IS a definite end to it...I can't say that for everyone settings alone can do it..it might require a new BIOS. I enjoy all the tweaking anyway, so don't really care too much as ASUS has a decent track record of solving these sorts of issues.


Man. That's a lot of rebooting. I've basically stopped messing with the bios and settled on something stable because I'm sick of rebooting. Boots aren't that fast with RIVBE.

Also, I found that BF4 may not be a good test for stability right now. That game is far too buggy in way too many ways. I was stable in Prime95 and ROG Realbench, but rebooting with BF4. I'm not sure it was caused by system stability or the game.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Man. That's a lot of rebooting. I've basically stopped messing with the bios and settled on something stable because I'm sick of rebooting. Boots aren't that fast with RIVBE.
> 
> Also, I found that BF4 may not be a good test for stability right now. That game is far too buggy in way too many ways. I was stable in Prime95 and ROG Realbench, but rebooting with BF4. I'm not sure it was caused by system stability or the game.


BF4 crashing as it loads isn't a game bug.









But I hear what you mean there, for sure.

boots are fine for me, I disabled extra drive controllers, Bluetooth(acts weird on BCLK adjust), and LAN, and use wireless for internet only, when I don't have issues, boots are less than 5 seconds from pushing the button to desktop. drive controllers and extra USB devices will affect boot time, naturally.

I don't mind the crashes, like I said, playing with settings and tweaking is somehow enjoyable for me.

And yeah, when I want to do some work, or play a game, back to 4.3 and 2400 Mhz mem @ 1.2V.

It almost feels like P95 testing hurt the board's VRM. ASUS does say to keep a fan on it, and I have...mostly.









What I have to do now is put these chips into the P9X79 Deluxe...that will sort things out, if the P9X79 works, but the RIVBE doesn't.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> no fun in overclocking if you play it safe


That is true I got kind of a bad chip I think I can only do 4.75 ghz with a 125 strap and it takes about 1.57vcore to do it anything over that frequency won't stay stable no matter the voltage. Will try my hand again with another 4930K next month. I need another chip anyways since I am going to move my old RIVE to a test bench and start LN2 hopefully spring time since my Black Edition is going in my rig now.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> no fun in overclocking if you play it safe


What you've never heard of underclock.net they keep it on the low









totally registering this domain now


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What you've never heard of underclock.net they keep it on the low
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> totally registering this domain now


I am still overclocking just undervolting so I guess we need to get a web domain for undervolt.net


----------



## FX45Guy

Join me up.... Comes tomorrow.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, you just need to tweak for stability, and that's no problem, if you know what crashes need what. I know it's loadline on VCCSA/CPU for me, and more memory, too. I try memory-only OC, reboots happen at anything over 2400 MHz.. CPU-only, reboots at anything over 4.3 GHz. Both together...no reboots until pushed a bit past what I'd call conservative clocking.
> 
> So, I find that 4.3 GHz stable, 2400 MHz, start pulling voltages down, one by one, until stability is lost. When lost, boost back up a couple of steps, and then move to next voltage.
> 
> So, I get 4.3 GHz stable on one chip @ 1.20V. set 4.4, instant BSOD, x124. boost voltage up, one step at a time, reboot, reboot, reboot, but after 5 minutes on third voltage boost, set 1.2375, and it lasts for a while, 30 minutes. try 1.25, reboots at 45 minutes.. 1.2625, reboots after 5 minutes. 1.3 V..instant reboot.
> 
> So, try another chip. get 4.3 stable @ 1.275V, repeat same process, same result.
> 
> Third chip, OK, 4.3 stable @ 1.150V! Nice! 4.4...forget it.
> 
> So, too much, or too little voltage, and you're screwed. But voltage is not all...
> 
> So, back to first chip, working on 4.4 GHz at same 1.25V. noticed that voltage boosts up on load, VRM is set to auto...so extreme or very high is set. Set high, what I set is what I get, and oh look..it's stable!
> 
> try 4.5 GHz, 1.325V same problem, reboots. Stability is close, but not 100%. try lowering ram speed...less stable. try other ram kit, more stable...
> 
> Hmm, so memory needs severe tweaks to, eh?
> 
> I start playing with VCCSA loadline and current limits...
> 
> and it's stable!!!! boost up to 4.6 GHz....stable, no problem, runs overnight P95.
> 
> take my kids to school, go to school myself, come back home, turn rig on...fire up BF4...reboot.
> 
> ARGH!!!!
> 
> lol.
> 
> So, I try the other chips, again, just cannot get stable.
> 
> It's a difficult journey, but there IS a definite end to it...I can't say that for everyone settings alone can do it..it might require a new BIOS. I enjoy all the tweaking anyway, so don't really care too much as ASUS has a decent track record of solving these sorts of issues.


Your experience is basically identical to mine









I would pass prime overnight, as well as linx, but it would reboot after playing bf4 for a while... But it would reboot while loading a new nap. Rebooting while basically idle with respect to CPU load, but purr along for hours at %100 with all cores.

I even ran memtest86 on a flash drive to isolate memory instability.

I'm going to play with current capability a bit more when I get back in town Friday.

If I could only OC over remote desktop.... Like using HP's Integrated Lights Out. That would be sweet.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> Anyone who is having issues with the Black with random reboots or anything else, Raja from ASUS has instructed someone start a new thread over at the ASUS ROG Rampage Forum, and include system specs and BIOS settings.


I sugested to raja the great there might be bugs within the LLC settings, and as always its user error or a persom does not kmow anything about LLC.

I can run stable with CPU HIGH LLC settings set to auto but I try and add a percent to my offset I will with no doubt have random reboots.

My RIVE was happy with CPU LLC HIGH LLC 130% offset +0.010 for 4.7GHz/ 2133MHz

My R4BE hates when LLC % are not auto.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> That is true I got kind of a bad chip I think I can only do 4.75 ghz with a 125 strap and it takes about 1.57vcore to do it anything over that frequency won't stay stable no matter the voltage. Will try my hand again with another 4930K next month. I need another chip anyways since I am going to move my old RIVE to a test bench and start LN2 hopefully spring time since my Black Edition is going in my rig now.


I have batch 3332B046. It is stable 4.7ghz at 1.4v. I'm not sure if I need all the way up to 1.4 to get it stable at that but 1.4 does indeed work. Everything on motherboard is default/auto except llc medium/high and pll overvoltage enabled. I can get more no doubt with 1.4 but I'll probably redo my loop before I start any serious oc.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> I sugested to raja the great there might be bugs within the LLC settings, and as always its user error or a persom does not kmow anything about LLC.
> 
> I can run stable with CPU HIGH LLC settings set to auto but I try and add a percent to my offset I will with no doubt have random reboots.
> 
> My RIVE was happy with CPU LLC HIGH LLC 130% offset +0.010 for 4.7GHz/ 2133MHz
> 
> My R4BE hates when LLC % are not auto.


The Air-cooled GAMER OC profile sets 1.5V and 5.0 GHz.

User error. Uh-huh.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I have batch 3332B046. It is stable 4.7ghz at 1.4v. I'm not sure if I need all the way up to 1.4 to get it stable at that but 1.4 does indeed work. Everything on motherboard is default/auto except llc medium/high and pll overvoltage enabled. I can get more no doubt with 1.4 but I'll probably redo my loop before I start any serious oc.


You wanna sell it lol? I wish I could get 4.7 with 1.4 volts I can do 4.6 @ 1.44


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> The Air-cooled GAMER OC profile sets 1.5V and 5.0 GHz.
> 
> User error. Uh-huh.


Iv'e tried that profile on my maxvform, no dice, ever. On that board it sets your cores to like, 49,48,47,46.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> You wanna sell it lol? I wish I could get 4.7 with 1.4 volts I can do 4.6 @ 1.44


Nah I'm quite happy with 4.7. Have you tweaked your bios settings? I'm eager to see the potential of this board.


----------



## doctakedooty

What do you mean by tweak bios? I actually just started from scratch again started with 4.3 stable @ 1.23 vcore 1.5 PLL 0.95 VTT and VCCSA LLC Regular 100% 4.4 I am working on now so far 1.29 vcore LLC Medium 110% 1.5 v PLL 0.95 VTT and VCCSA

Trying to figure out my temps at the moment getting 65C peak at 4.4 have motherboard ram and cpu on the loop with 2 480mm radiators 2 240mm radiators water temps are 29C leaving the last radiator and using a single mcp35x pump pump may be to small for the loop.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> What do you mean by tweak bios? I actually just started from scratch again started with 4.3 stable @ 1.23 vcore 1.5 PLL 0.95 VTT and VCCSA LLC Regular 100% 4.4 I am working on now so far 1.29 vcore LLC Medium 110% 1.5 v PLL 0.95 VTT and VCCSA


There's like a million settings lol. Sometimes cpu-z says 1.408 and sometimes 1.392 weird... it's set to 1.40 in bios.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> There's like a million settings lol. Sometimes cpu-z says 1.408 and sometimes 1.392 weird... it's set to 1.40 in bios.


Yea I have tweaked them and still tweaking I just decided I would start from scratch since I am sick and have nothing better to do besides talk on OCN and work on overclocks.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Yea I have tweaked them and still tweaking I just decided I would start from scratch since I am sick and have nothing better to do besides talk on OCN and work on overclocks.
> Trying to figure out my temps at the moment getting 65C peak at 4.4 have motherboard ram and cpu on the loop with 2 480mm radiators 2 240mm radiators water temps are 29C leaving the last radiator and using a single mcp35x pump pump may be to small for the loop.


I get 70max on core on small ffts with 1 480 rad running 1 fan and another running 3 lol. That and the inlet and outlet are reversed on my loop cause I rushed and didn't look everything over. Pretty decent temps though.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Your experience is basically identical to mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would pass prime overnight, as well as linx, but it would reboot after playing bf4 for a while... But it would reboot while loading a new nap. Rebooting while basically idle with respect to CPU load, but purr along for hours at %100 with all cores.
> 
> I even ran memtest86 on a flash drive to isolate memory instability.
> 
> I'm going to play with current capability a bit more when I get back in town Friday.
> 
> If I could only OC over remote desktop.... Like using HP's Integrated Lights Out. That would be sweet.


same problem here! just want to confirm with you guys, can you pass p95 overnight if set bios to 'ASUS optimized defaults'?
it seems I have a fatal error occur after 3.5 hours, first test of p95 v28.1 build 1, max temp during test is 62.


----------



## skupples

Iv'e had simple web browsing crash OC's that were prime95/linx/mum stable.


----------



## broken pixel

Anyone tried the R4BE BIOS they have over at the kingpin forums?

I think I have my 3930k stable @ 4.7 offset +0.005 CPU LLC High, phase extreme.


----------



## LunaP

out of curiosity on some people that are having issues, did you perform a fresh OS install prior or just toss your drive on from a previous build? Dumb question but sometimes CAN cause issues. JUST a thought.


----------



## Raghar

And how many of you tried to use it non overclocked just to test if it's stable at the base speed?

I just looked at a bit of 24 carat gold, and I wondered... Should I? It's black, and gold might...


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> out of curiosity on some people that are having issues, did you perform a fresh OS install prior or just toss your drive on from a previous build? Dumb question but sometimes CAN cause issues. JUST a thought.


Fresh installation, I took this chance to secure erase the ssd and upgrade OS to win 8.1


----------



## asfgbdnf

I guess 0403 is the latest version, other on that forum is older than is?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> And how many of you tried to use it non overclocked just to test if it's stable at the base speed?
> 
> I just looked at a bit of 24 carat gold, and I wondered... Should I? It's black, and gold might...


Good question, testing it with p95 right now, it seems I have a fatal error occur after 3.5 hours, first test of p95 v28.1 build 1, max temp during test is 62.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> OS to win 8.1


How many of you with crashes have W8? Can you try W7 or Linux as well?


----------



## asfgbdnf

do you have reboot problem, Raghar?


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> How many of you with crashes have W8? Can you try W7 or Linux as well?


My primary OS is Arch Linux, however I haven't spent a great deal of time in it since I've been gaming. I'll have results in a few days (out of town ATM). I was considering downloading Stress Linux for stress testing since I've been crashing so much. I don't really feel like corrupting a Windows install.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> do you have reboot problem, Raghar?


No I have the my MB didn't arrive yet problem, and I need to somehow organize my trip because if it would arrive when I'd be on trip, it would be completely impossible to receive it.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Ok, newegg or UPS are on crack. I ordered the RIVE BE last week and was scheduled for delivery today, but didn't show up. Tracking number says its in a town 2 hours from here since last night.

Ordered my new Memory Kit on Monday and showed up today, before the RIVE.

At least it's giving me time to prep them for the black board.
Removed the heatsinks and sandblast the heat sinks.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> I sugested to raja the great there might be bugs within the LLC settings, and as always its user error or a persom does not kmow anything about LLC.
> 
> I can run stable with CPU HIGH LLC settings set to auto but I try and add a percent to my offset I will with no doubt have random reboots.
> 
> My RIVE was happy with CPU LLC HIGH LLC 130% offset +0.010 for 4.7GHz/ 2133MHz
> 
> My R4BE hates when LLC % are not auto.


Like TTL couldn't help stressing in his review, RIVBE is and RIVE are not the same thing and you shouldn't expect to use the same settings from one on the other.

Personally, I know that +0.010V is WAY too little offset voltage for my 4930k and overclock. I think my LLC is on Auto, but my + offset is 0.110V. That puts the load voltage at 1.344V, and it idles around 0.960V.


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

You know those feelings of hopelessness? I bent the pins on myriv-be . I dont know how it happened. I seated my cpu carefully, followed the instructions and pulled down the lever, halfway through pulling it down I heard a crunch lifted up to see half the pins on one side were bent. seems like a lot of pressure these chips have with the mobo, maybe i got a defective retention mechanism. ill post pics in a minute. either way







I feel sick. I heard asus will fix the pins for a fee. going to have to contact them


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> You know those feelings of hopelessness? I bent the pins on myriv-be . I dont know how it happened. I seated my cpu carefully, followed the instructions and pulled down the lever, halfway through pulling it down I heard a crunch lifted up to see half the pins on one side were bent. seems like a lot of pressure these chips have with the mobo, maybe i got a defective retention mechanism. ill post pics in a minute. either way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel sick. I heard asus will fix the pins for a fee. going to have to contact them


Man that blows sorry to here that. Dealing with asus rma and repairs is a bloody nightmare most of the time. Main reason the company asus uses to repair boards and such, Pegatron!


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Like TTL couldn't help stressing in his review, RIVBE is and RIVE are not the same thing and you shouldn't expect to use the same settings from one on the other.
> 
> Personally, I know that +0.010V is WAY too little offset voltage for my 4930k and overclock. I think my LLC is on Auto, but my + offset is 0.110V. That puts the load voltage at 1.344V, and it idles around 0.960V.


i did test with diff offset voltages I will post after i decode my scratch pad to txt.

If i set +0.010 ITB will crash after a few passes, if i use +0.005 i can pass IBT @ normal and high runs.


----------



## doctakedooty

On the ek supremecy waterblock what is the best jet plate to use for 2011 socket? Picture would be best.


----------



## kpoeticg

It's either J3 or J4. It should say it. It's the one with the widest channels. It's specifically meant for LGA2011

It's J4

"Besides the changes regarding factory pre-installed jet plate EK Water Block has also released a new jet plate J4, designed specifically for the Intel LGA-2011 CPUs. Simon 'stren' Leigh, a community renown water cooling gear performance reviewer, has confirmed the boost in performance by about 1°C on a LGA-2011 platform. This new jet plate J4 is now being bundled with every EK-Supremacy water block."


----------



## jamiee

As you know my RIVBE was COMPLETELY unstable with a Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz (4x8GB = 32GB) kit of ram installed.

I'm doing much better now with an older G-Skill Ripjaws 2133MHZ (8x4GB = 32GB) kit I had laying around from my early RIVE days.

My current settings for a 4930K @ 4.2GHz stable on Win 8.1 Pro are:
(passes all IBT tests & some gaming)

XMP = Enabled
CPU Vcore = 1.25v
CPU LLC= High
CPU Current = 140%
VCCSA LLC = High
VCCSA Current = 120%
DRAM Current AB /CD = 120%
VCCSA Offset = 0.005
C State Limit = C6
CPU & PCIe Spread Spectrum = Dissabled

Most on-board devices like audio, wireless, bluetooth, and extra sata controllers are disabled.

I will be getting my G-Skill trident X 2400MHz (4x8GB = 32GB) kit in the next day or so.
I'm expecting that it will be a little friendlier on the CPU's IMC, so I may be able to drop the core volts a touch hopefully?

I'm aiming for a 4.3 - 4.5GHz 24/7 overclock - we'll see....

But in general, I do find this BIOS (0403) to be a little wonky... There's a very fine line between being stable or not.
It's early in the game though


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

Before the CPU was placed



the sound of the pins bending was almost like velcro. ***


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You know those feelings of hopelessness? I bent the pins on myriv-be . I dont know how it happened. I seated my cpu carefully, followed the instructions and pulled down the lever, halfway through pulling it down I heard a crunch lifted up to see half the pins on one side were bent. seems like a lot of pressure these chips have with the mobo, maybe i got a defective retention mechanism. ill post pics in a minute. either way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel sick. I heard asus will fix the pins for a fee. going to have to contact them


With intel it's VERY normal to feel like you are going to break the board when clamping down. As to bent pins, are you sure you put the CPU in the right way? The letters should be upside down, as the socket is "upside down" if you notice, the lock symbols are upside down. Your pictures make me think you may of put the chip in the wrong way. It's counter intuitive if it's your first time using LGA 2011.

I know the feeling, you can feel it in your loins.


----------



## doctakedooty

Is this the jet plate your refering to as number 4


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

This is why I don't understand why they bent. and only one half of the pins. I firmly seated the CPU with the notches and arrow in the upper right matching. I went halfway down and heard a crunch, opened it back up and looked, and voila half the pins bent in one direction


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Is this the jet plate your refering to as number 4


That's J3 i think



http://www.ekwb.com/news/349/19/EK-Supremacy-Jet-J3-now-standard-new-jet-plate-J4-for-LGA-2011/


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Is this the jet plate your refering to as number 4


NO, that's not number 4

Yes, poeticg is correct, that's number 3.

Number 4 is just a single slit, and it's 0.7mm thick, it's the thinnest of the 4 plates.

Darlene


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

Yeah, the writing on the CPU was upside down. I read everything carefully, I'm very used to being thorough (I have a couple degrees in applied science and work in a lab) that's why I don't understand how this could have happened. I wanna say it was a problem with the mechanism... I guess I just have bad luck. I cant afford another 500$ so I guess im sending it to asus for repairs.... how much do they charge for that fix? 100$?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> On the ek supremecy waterblock what is the best jet plate to use for 2011 socket? Picture would be best.


It's the jet plate with the fattest mouth.



@least, this was the 2011 jet plate that came with my CSQ supremacy Elite. Confirmed by my directions, that block is over a year old, & as linked above they now have a new plate. The info above just confuses me as the info in my old csq supremacy is different.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> Yeah, the writing on the CPU was upside down. I read everything carefully, I'm very used to being thorough (I have a couple degrees in applied science and work in a lab) that's why I don't understand how this could have happened. I wanna say it was a problem with the mechanism... I guess I just have bad luck. I cant afford another 500$ so I guess im sending it to asus for repairs.... how much do they charge for that fix? 100$?












I'm not sure.


----------



## kpoeticg

Skupples, J3 was plate used for 2011 before they made J4 i think. J3's the one that comes attached i think. J4's meant for 2011 tho. Read that article i linked


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That's J3 i think
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/349/19/EK-Supremacy-Jet-J3-now-standard-new-jet-plate-J4-for-LGA-2011/


I have 2 that look like that in my box is it the thicker one or the thinner one in depth


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

meanwhile i sold my last computer, and I have a corsair 540, gtx760 acx, corsair force gs 128SSD, sp850W psu, a seidon 240, and a couple sp120 fans collecting dust. Tis a sad day for me







I went from that feeling of joy on christmas morning with it coming, to a feeling of instant "that doesnt sound right" Im f*@ked when closing the cpu retainer.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> Yeah, the writing on the CPU was upside down. I read everything carefully, I'm very used to being thorough (I have a couple degrees in applied science and work in a lab) that's why I don't understand how this could have happened. I wanna say it was a problem with the mechanism... I guess I just have bad luck. I cant afford another 500$ so I guess im sending it to asus for repairs.... how much do they charge for that fix? 100$?


You may want to go back with a bright light and magnifying glass and really check the pins, and then the rest of the socket index keys, it could be you just crunched some plastic by having the chip in backwards.

Since nothing actually sticks down from the cpu, there's nothing to actually bend the pins.

The pic looked pretty normal, (for as much as could be seen from it) the socket always looks like two halves, one left handed the other the opposite.

Darlene

At least post some good pics of the socket / pins . . . from the posts from the other day about different sockets, we have a number of sockets/pins pics to weigh it against


----------



## skupples

I feel your pain brother, I could only imagine. That feeling, it's so... I wonder if girls get the same feeling, due to it's physical location. I literally feel it in the loins.

In other news, anyone know about AMD Advocacy program? Seems we have a few members of it on OCN who are not supplying the information in their sig's (though they should)


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> There's like a million settings lol. Sometimes cpu-z says 1.408 and sometimes 1.392 weird... it's set to 1.40 in bios.


Set 1.4V in Bios is real with the Multimeter 1.404-1.407 V on the RIVE that must be the same für RIVBE all ASUS MOBO give a little more Voltage.
CPU-Z show 0.04-0.07 V less as the real Voltage realy are.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> meanwhile i sold my last computer, and I have a corsair 540, gtx760 acx, corsair force gs 128SSD, sp850W psu, a seidon 240, and a couple sp120 fans collecting dust. Tis a sad day for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went from that feeling of joy on christmas morning with it coming, to a feeling of instant "that doesnt sound right" Im f*@ked when closing the cpu retainer.


I might be wrong, but aren't the pins supposed to bend the first time the socket gets used?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> meanwhile i sold my last computer, and I have a corsair 540, gtx760 acx, corsair force gs 128SSD, sp850W psu, a seidon 240, and a couple sp120 fans collecting dust. Tis a sad day for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went from that feeling of joy on christmas morning with it coming, to a feeling of instant "that doesnt sound right" Im f*@ked when closing the cpu retainer.
> 
> 
> 
> I might be wrong, but aren't the pins supposed to bend the first time the socket gets used?
Click to expand...

No,

If they did, you wouldn't have consistent contact pressure with subsequent CPU installs.

Darlene


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Gold plated things still have issues. I remember how I lost gold plating on my teaspoon I used to eat yogurt. Dry it immediately after washing, and never leave it in the water for too long.


Since I was a boat mechanic in a former life, galvanic corrosion can do some nasty stuff. Ive seen entire outdrives get corroded so bad it compromises the drive itself. It looked like the drive was shot peened with baseball size stainless steel balls and then add a frosty corrosion coating. Sacrificial anodes are a must when 2 dissimilar metals are present.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Has anybody ran the board with a H100i? Im curious what people have been getting with this since that's the route i'm going with this build.


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Has anybody ran the board with a H100i? Im curious what people have been getting with this since that's the route i'm going with this build.


I'm actually running it right now on h100i. On a 4930K. It's working pretty well. I'm currently working on my 'daily' 4.4ghz profile. While running Prime95 i'm at max 63C degrees on the highest core.

I did have an issue with Corsair Link though. For that to work, it's really picky about the USB (internal) hub it's plugged into. Doesn't like to share. Like it wouldn't work with my mouse plugged in. Had to move my mouse to a different USB port. Which I thought was silly, but whatever.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I might be wrong, but aren't the pins supposed to bend the first time the socket gets used?


The pins are "springy"


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

I hope that it was the plastic, I dont see how metal can cause that sound. maybe my worries are that of a noob but it looks like all the pins are angled now.
Posting pictures in a sec.....

if they pins are supposed to be angled, maybe I'm a noob just freaking out over nothing.


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci




----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You may want to go back with a bright light and magnifying glass and really check the pins, and then the rest of the socket index keys, it could be you just crunched some plastic by having the chip in backwards.
> 
> Since nothing actually sticks down from the cpu, there's nothing to actually bend the pins.
> 
> The pic looked pretty normal, (for as much as could be seen from it) the socket always looks like two halves, one left handed the other the opposite.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> At least post some good pics of the socket / pins . . . from the posts from the other day about different sockets, we have a number of sockets/pins pics to weigh it against


Am I freaking out over nothing. maybe it was the sound of plastic. if it is I feel relieved. Time to put it all together? or do I send it out?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have you actually tried as I dont see anything bent??

I would not be freaking out until I tried it!!


----------



## binormalkilla

That looks fine to me. I would install the CPU again and carry on.


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Have you actually tried as I dont see anything bent??
> 
> I would not be freaking out until I tried it!!


maybe I assumed these were a lot more delicate. yeah, it posted, and it recognized the cpu earlier. maybe I freaked out? I have a whole ton of technical knowledge and ive worked on computers and work on complex machines during half my day at work, but I've never installed a cpu that wasnt amd....


----------



## skupples

I think you are good then! The retention/clamp is slightly concave, so if it happens to not be 100% screwed down it can pop. (experienced this doing my back plate mod)


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> I'm actually running it right now on h100i. On a 4930K. It's working pretty well. I'm currently working on my 'daily' 4.4ghz profile. While running Prime95 i'm at max 63C degrees on the highest core.
> 
> I did have an issue with Corsair Link though. For that to work, it's really picky about the USB (internal) hub it's plugged into. Doesn't like to share. Like it wouldn't work with my mouse plugged in. Had to move my mouse to a different USB port. Which I thought was silly, but whatever.


That's sweet! I could be satisfied with 4.4. That's what I got on my 3570k right now. Yeah I won't be using Corsair Link, I've heard too many bad things. Ive been running my 3570k with an H80i for about a year now without the Corsair Link no problems. Can't wait to get this thing together. Looks like our builds are going to be pretty close. There is also another guy on here running the same thing as I will be. Hopefully he'll chime in.


----------



## skupples

I'll be happy with w/e OC allows zero necking on my tri-titan.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'll be happy with w/e OC allows zero necking on my tri-titan.


hmmm wonder how my tri 770 will work


----------



## hotrod717

Just ordered mine. Now to figure out which chip to throw in. I'm leaning toward Ivy-E with the stronger imc.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Got my system up and running with no problems with the memory which I was scared of









Heres my cpu-z validation please add me to the club


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://valid.canardpc.com/li4cra


----------



## JimmyWild

Done with runs for tonight. 4.7 was crashing after about 8 min on Prime95 at 1.408v. Not pushing any harder until have better cooling. But the h100i did pretty well tonight. This stable run was 4.6 @ 1.392v and temps of about 75-77c.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no, this board was completely redesigned from the ground up, as was the CVFz from the CVF
> 
> 
> 
> it's still a x79 mobo, so, did you want to say, after design of all those x79 mobo, asus has nothing to learn from previous design?
Click to expand...

well, sense it is obvious you can do 100% a better job, i think you should make a board and start selling it ! i mean right away, as asus is just the worst board manufacture ever according to you !


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> yes it's re-design with add-on of some new features, my point is asus has tons of stuff to learn from old r4e, and in such way, avoid repeating the same problem with r4e. do you agree?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try putting yourself into a developers shoes. Then think about how you would make a perfect board, then realize it's not possible but with time you can eventually have something amazing with minimal issue.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no, this board was completely redesigned from the ground up, as was the CVFz from the CVF
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This all the way.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> it's still a x79 mobo, so, did you want to say, after design of all those x79 mobo, asus has nothing to learn from previous design?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You're arguing to argue in this case, every new board will start out w/ issues, and slowly get fixed over time, it's more and more prevelant with the more users push their machines, with all different types of hardware mixing and matching there are bound to be compatibility and other issues. It's only from a larger community posting feedback and updating that these get ironed out. This is a new board, this is for a NEW Revision that JUST came out, so there is still much work to put into with updates to ensure better overclocks, more compatibility and more, the plethora of options already shows that they got off with a great start.
> 
> I don't expect it to work perfectly ESPECIALLY after only 1 small bios release. I do however expect most issues to be ironed out JUST like any other board in the past within the next 3-4 updates. I'm pretty sure the next update will fix most reported issues, and anything else will be to either support something new or handle things better.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Try putting yourself into a developers shoes. Then think about how you would make a perfect board, then realize it's not possible but with time you can eventually have something amazing with minimal issue.
> This all the way.
> You're arguing to argue in this case, every new board will start out w/ issues, and slowly get fixed over time, it's more and more prevelant with the more users push their machines, with all different types of hardware mixing and matching there are bound to be compatibility and other issues. It's only from a larger community posting feedback and updating that these get ironed out. This is a new board, this is for a NEW Revision that JUST came out, so there is still much work to put into with updates to ensure better overclocks, more compatibility and more, the plethora of options already shows that they got off with a great start.
> 
> I don't expect it to work perfectly ESPECIALLY after only 1 small bios release. I do however expect most issues to be ironed out JUST like any other board in the past within the next 3-4 updates. I'm pretty sure the next update will fix most reported issues, and anything else will be to either support something new or handle things better.
> 
> 
> 
> i understand your point, however, Asus sent out testing mobo to professional OCers several months ago,I just cannot believe the retail version still suffers from fundamental problems, like reboot issues reported here.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sending out to a group of 6 people for OC'ing gets great results for OC'ing though the IVY-E chips weren't released until 2 months ago. So what the others were working w/ were prior chips which is why people are having somewhat better results.
> 
> 5 people != 1000's that buy the board and try 1000's of different configurations, the people that tested on them, went with the best of best they could fathom, which not everyone can afford or chooses to do w/ the quantity or quality of what's out there. The real deal starts after most of the critical issues are passed, afterwards its up to users, and MORE feedback is posted, this is the next stage of Q&A pretty much.
> 
> + Hardware can be to blame as well not always the motherboard, though in other cases yes, in other cases just BAD silicon lottery. It happens. You need to give it a bit as they're in the process of data mining from all users that have now purchased it and I guarantee their next Bios update should be huge to encompass many of the concerns and new hardware. IVY-E is brand new so yeah it's going to take a bit, they had no way to 100% guess on it.
> 
> 
> 
> you sure only a group of 6 people had it before launch?
> I bet Asus sent out more 'engineering samples' than the number you mentioned. So several rounds of 'feedback and improve' have already been done. So it surprises me to see retail version still has fundamental problems, like reboot.
Click to expand...




this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Here is a custom version of aida64 made for our board. Definitely renewing my license after seeing this kind of support. (Assuming it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> http://users.aida64.com/aida64extreme_build_2721_r4be.zip


one of the reasons i bought it, like DVDfab always updated and always works, dvdfab was expencive, but i do not regret buying all-in-one lifetime license, was it expensive, yes, but it always works, and their customer service is almost as good as swiftechs ! and the amoutn of free programs.... amazing, even have a up to 18 virtual drive software ( works great for ripping disks and reburning without protection, my wife is from china, and it allows us to buy her family dvd/blurays, remove the regional lock so they can watch them... pretty cool ) asl would like to throw hwinfo in, great support CONSTANTLY updated and heck it is free !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it can, ANY mixed metals can, even brass and copper, if you have not read it here is a great read on galvanic corrosion
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
> i think the only exception is gold, which i have heard does not corrode.
> 
> 
> 
> Gold plated things still have issues. I remember how I lost gold plating on my teaspoon I used to eat yogurt. Dry it immediately after washing, and never leave it in the water for too long.
Click to expand...

plated is not gold ! plated is a CHEAT !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Welp after further research found out some interesting tidbits, and Skupps I know you were considering this too, but witheld due to lack of information circulating at the time.
> 
> In regards to Stren's test, been reading up further on his after notes and other posts from many people that took the XSPC route.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stren*
> Core temps are so close that it's tempting to ignore and choose on VRM temps and aesthetics. However if I were running 3 in parallel I probably would avoid the EK and run the XSPC due to EK's poor core temps at low flow. Not many of us can afford three titans though lol.
> 
> Yeah it all depends if you want better core temps or VRM/VRAM temps. The XSPC is a good choice, *bear in mind my testing was done without backplate*. *Presumably the backplate helps the VRAM temps. You could even get some extra thermal pads and hit up the back of the VRM section too for extra cooling there.*
> 
> 
> 
> Further responses from some
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the XSPC Titan block on my 780 and the results are fantastic! Full load (Furmark, Heaven 4.0, 3dmark 11, anything I can throw at it) never budges from 38 degrees C with boost clocks as high as 1293/6608 and 1.212V.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So yeah I think I'll join in and test + it's copper that I won't be able to see so no complains there, the thin line lighting will look amazing in my build vs a huge glowing block 3 lol. Hope this helps. I can post source and additional if you need.
Click to expand...

huh ??? is this the board block???? LINKY PLEASE ! i have been able to find NADA !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> What do you mean by tweak bios? I actually just started from scratch again started with 4.3 stable @ 1.23 vcore 1.5 PLL 0.95 VTT and VCCSA LLC Regular 100% 4.4 I am working on now so far 1.29 vcore LLC Medium 110% 1.5 v PLL 0.95 VTT and VCCSA
> 
> 
> 
> There's like a million settings lol. Sometimes cpu-z says 1.408 and sometimes 1.392 weird... it's set to 1.40 in bios.
Click to expand...

1 word for you.... MULTIMETER ! software is never right !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> Yeah, the writing on the CPU was upside down. I read everything carefully, I'm very used to being thorough (I have a couple degrees in applied science and work in a lab) that's why I don't understand how this could have happened. I wanna say it was a problem with the mechanism... I guess I just have bad luck. I cant afford another 500$ so I guess im sending it to asus for repairs.... how much do they charge for that fix? 100$?


pins on 2011 are 1/2 1 way 1/2 the other, but i would be willing ot bet if someone ever did get a new board, and literally 1/2 of the pins bent, and it was all the same half, you could call manufactures defect....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> Yeah, the writing on the CPU was upside down. I read everything carefully, I'm very used to being thorough (I have a couple degrees in applied science and work in a lab) that's why I don't understand how this could have happened. I wanna say it was a problem with the mechanism... I guess I just have bad luck. I cant afford another 500$ so I guess im sending it to asus for repairs.... how much do they charge for that fix? 100$?
> 
> 
> 
> You may want to go back with a bright light and magnifying glass and really check the pins, and then the rest of the socket index keys, it could be you just crunched some plastic by having the chip in backwards.
> 
> Since nothing actually sticks down from the cpu, there's nothing to actually bend the pins.
> 
> The pic looked pretty normal, (for as much as could be seen from it) the socket always looks like two halves, one left handed the other the opposite.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> At least post some good pics of the socket / pins . . . from the posts from the other day about different sockets, we have a number of sockets/pins pics to weigh it against
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you actually tried as I dont see anything bent??
> 
> I would not be freaking out until I tried it!!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> That looks fine to me. I would install the CPU again and carry on.





this.. all of this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Got my system up and running with no problems with the memory which I was scared of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres my cpu-z validation please add me to the club
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/li4cra


congrats

gees i am gone 1 day and 100 posts o.o


Spoiler: totally off topic



i thought this was freaking hilarious [email protected]


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh ??? is this the board block???? LINKY PLEASE ! i have been able to find NADA !


Huh no that was entirely about the XSPC Razor block for the Titan/780 the temps are actually better than reported

Also Derrick already mentioned in the EK thread that they have the Block for the RiVBE in the works already should be an update soon.


----------



## skupples

Yeah... I'm done waiting on that block. I'll just be blasting the vrm's with air.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah... I'm done waiting on that block. I'll just be blasting the vrm's with air.


I'm so lost now...VRM's on the Motherboard right?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm so lost now...VRM's on the Motherboard right?


Yes, i'm not waiting around for the mobo blocks. Maybe later when I Have time to put them on their own loop. The flow rate would just be WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too low going through 3 rads 3 gpu's & a CPU. I'm trying to stay above 1gpm, idk if i'll be able to do that with a dual pump even.

signed the digital slip for UPS so that they will leave my damned package @ the door tomorrow. YAY back to building this week.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yes, i'm not waiting around for the mobo blocks. Maybe later when I Have time to put them on their own loop. *The flow rate would just be WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too low going through 3 rads 3 gpu's & a CPU. I'm trying to stay above 1gpm,* idk if i'll be able to do that with a dual pump even.
> 
> signed the digital slip for UPS so that they will leave my damned package @ the door tomorrow. YAY back to building this week.


Big reason why I'm NOT doing EK blocks for Tri SLI >_>

And yeah I hate UPS w/ a passion, I'm setting up a security cam on our front door in a hidden area to see what they do, when my RIVBE came they never knocked we just heard something hit the ground and the sounds of someone running, then a loud truck noise and looked outside and it was just sitting there.. lol


----------



## _REAPER_

Ready to start my build now I am just going to push for a 4.5ghz OC


----------



## broken pixel

Woohoo! 1224cb score with Cinbench R15.0
My highest score ever.








4.8GHz offset +0.005 = 1.334 Core/ 1.321 VID
LLC ULTRA HIGH
CPU CURRENT 180%


----------



## broken pixel

delete 2x


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> As you know my RIVBE was COMPLETELY unstable with a Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz (4x8GB = 32GB) kit of ram installed.
> 
> I'm doing much better now with an older G-Skill Ripjaws 2133MHZ (8x4GB = 32GB) kit I had laying around from my early RIVE days.
> 
> My current settings for a 4930K @ 4.2GHz stable on Win 8.1 Pro are:
> (passes all IBT tests & some gaming)
> 
> XMP = Enabled
> CPU Vcore = 1.25v
> CPU LLC= High
> CPU Current = 140%
> VCCSA LLC = High
> VCCSA Current = 120%
> DRAM Current AB /CD = 120%
> VCCSA Offset = 0.005
> C State Limit = C6
> CPU & PCIe Spread Spectrum = Dissabled
> 
> Most on-board devices like audio, wireless, bluetooth, and extra sata controllers are disabled.
> 
> I will be getting my G-Skill trident X 2400MHz (4x8GB = 32GB) kit in the next day or so.
> I'm expecting that it will be a little friendlier on the CPU's IMC, so I may be able to drop the core volts a touch hopefully?
> 
> I'm aiming for a 4.3 - 4.5GHz 24/7 overclock - we'll see....
> 
> But in general, I do find this BIOS (0403) to be a little wonky... There's a very fine line between being stable or not.
> It's early in the game though


can somebody explain what does 'C State Limit' mean? I usually choose 'no limit' ? and what does 'blck recovery' mean, which is a new entry in R4BE BIOS.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> Am I freaking out over nothing. maybe it was the sound of plastic. if it is I feel relieved. Time to put it all together? or do I send it out?


looks OK for me. Please install the CPU and test it


----------



## JimmyWild

Low light shot of my board with h100i and quad Dominator kit installed. I can't help but think how sexy this combo is! Can't wait to get this out of the 500R and into the 900D though. That'll be hot!


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> This is why I don't understand why they bent. and only one half of the pins. I firmly seated the CPU with the notches and arrow in the upper right matching. I went halfway down and heard a crunch, opened it back up and looked, and voila half the pins bent in one direction


The sound of crunch is normal. it's from the pcb. There are two levels that you need to lock, so you should expect two sound of crunch


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Low light shot of my board with h100i and quad Dominator kit installed. I can't help but think how sexy this combo is! Can't wait to get this out of the 500R and into the 900D though. That'll be hot!


I like how the GPU matches the RAM I am going to do something similar but with a little red in it


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Woohoo! 1224cb score with Cinbench R15.0
> My highest score ever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.8GHz offset +0.005 = 1.334 Core/ 1.321 VID
> LLC ULTRA HIGH
> CPU CURRENT 180%


Dude! I just noticed the pics of your car. I have the same car! 2006, yellow, but not z51 lol. Well and I don't have any of the mods you did either lol, but anyway.


----------



## broken pixel

3930k 4.8ghz +0.005, ultra high, 180% 1.376 core/ 1.341 VID


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Dude! I just noticed the pics of your car. I have the same car! 2006, yellow, but not z51 lol. Well and I don't have any of the mods you did either lol, but anyway.


Funny you mention her, she went into the shop today for 0 oil pressure, I hope it is the oil pump. . . ..


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Funny you mention her, she went into the shop today for 0 oil pressure, I hope it is the oil pump. . . ..


Dang! Hope she's better real soon!


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyWild*
> 
> Dang! Hope she's better real soon!


Thanks!

My 3930K is catching up to the 12core/ 24 thread Xenon @ 2.6GHz, lol
4.9GHz +0.035 CPU LLC Ultra High/ CPU Current 180%/ CPU Freq 350


Dyno tune vid after my cam install.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> My 3930K is catching up to the 12core/ 24 thread Xenon @ 2.6GHz, lol
> 4.9GHz +0.035 CPU LLC Ultra High/ CPU Current 180%/ CPU Freq 350
> 
> 
> Dyno tune vid after my cam install.


why the adia64 on your computer is able to display all that voltage readings?which version you are using?


----------



## broken pixel

Here you go buddy! I suggest buying a lic for 39 bucks. I have been using a floating magic key for years for AIDA and I actually purchased my own key last night. AIDA64 released an update for there software to support the R4BE after a user email them within 24hrs time frame.

linky
http://users.aida64.com/aida64extreme_build_2721_r4be.zip


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Here you go buddy! I suggest buying a lic for 39 bucks. I have been using a floating magic key for years for AIDA and I actually purchased my own key last night. AIDA64 released an update for there software to support the R4BE after a user email them within 24hrs time frame.
> 
> linky
> http://users.aida64.com/aida64extreme_build_2721_r4be.zip


nice:thumb:


----------



## JimmyWild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Here you go buddy! I suggest buying a lic for 39 bucks. I have been using a floating magic key for years for AIDA and I actually purchased my own key last night. AIDA64 released an update for there software to support the R4BE after a user email them within 24hrs time frame.
> 
> linky
> http://users.aida64.com/aida64extreme_build_2721_r4be.zip


I've been thinking about picking this up. Nice of them to update it.









*Nice dyno vid btw, she looks and sounds great!


----------



## Kitler

How are people liking this board? How is the onboard audio?

I think I just burned my RIVF and this seems like an logical upgrade.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitler*
> 
> How are people liking this board? How is the onboard audio?
> 
> I think I just burned my RIVF and this seems like an logical upgrade.


with default windows driver, sound works fine. however, with asus sound chip driver, I have strong echo. Not sure if anyone else has this same problem?


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> 3930k 4.8ghz +0.005, ultra high, 180% 1.376 core/ 1.341 VID
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: This is SPARTA!


Would you help a brother out, I'm at 4.4 same volts









Also, you said you were using bios found on the kingin forums, could you link, please, I'm having 0 luck.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Would you help a brother out, I'm at 4.4 same volts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, you said you were using bios found on the kingin forums, could you link, please, I'm having 0 luck.


This post I assume
http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2479


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> This post I assume
> http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2479


Thanks +rep


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

Ok, Welp, I feel stupid. I dont think my pins were bent, I heard the crunch, looked at the pins, realized they were angled and gave myself a panic attack. Assembled almost everything and its running great at 27*C idle, just waiting on two more fans for a push/pull and my RAM, I returned my 2133 RIPJAWS Z that was 189$ because I cought the newegg deal of 16gb of 1600 for 102$ (I'm currently running 8g of 1333 and its not so bad but I havent played any games yet)

As you can probably tell, I am rather noobish to all of this, just trying to learn.
Can I place the corsair sp120s on the bottom and put the coolermaster seidon fans on top of the radiator? vice versa? is it bad to mix, I imaging the corsair sp120s force a bit more air out of them.

Heres what I managed to pull off today, still got some organizing to do, still need another 760, and time to play with the thing.



-AGE


----------



## kpoeticg

Ok first of all


Glad to hear about the pins









As far as mixing fans, I wouldn't mix those particular fans. You can mix fans as long as they're within a few hundred rpm of each other and of similar SP/Quality

Here's a quote from the man himself on the topic
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Absolutely, I encourage mixing of fans and have done it many times. The mixing fan phobia generate by forum members is really just another forum myth by users not knowing. I have yet to see any testing to show it being a problem. Actually I have found mixing two different fans to be a benefit at times. When testing the H220 I found two AP15s plus two Helix to be a great match. The helix alone seemed to have a little harmonic under pressure in push only that goes away and smooths out when the GTs were added. Also anytime you mix like fan speeds you can get rpm harmonics so having fans at speeds that are a few hundred off is a good thing.
> 
> Noctua even does mixing of fans and speeds on their NH-D14.
> 
> While it may not make sense to mix 5000rpm Deltas with 1200rpm yates, I sure wouldn't worry about 500rpm differences particularly when resistance like a radiator is keeping air flows well below either fans max air flow rate. Mixing fans is a good thing..


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

ah, gotchya, maybe I should have ordered 4 then.... I wanted to stay just under 2k with this build. Thanks for the quick reply. now what to do with the two sp120s in the meantime... maybe replace the CM fans,


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> This post I assume
> http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2479


Why my post is edited by 'alancsalt' ??


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> Ok, Welp, I feel stupid. I dont think my pins were bent, I heard the crunch, looked at the pins, realized they were angled and gave myself a panic attack. Assembled almost everything and its running great at 27*C idle, just waiting on two more fans for a push/pull and my RAM, I returned my 2133 RIPJAWS Z that was 189$ because I cought the newegg deal of 16gb of 1600 for 102$ (I'm currently running 8g of 1333 and its not so bad but I havent played any games yet)
> 
> As you can probably tell, I am rather noobish to all of this, just trying to learn.
> Can I place the corsair sp120s on the bottom and put the coolermaster seidon fans on top of the radiator? vice versa? is it bad to mix, I imaging the corsair sp120s force a bit more air out of them.
> 
> Heres what I managed to pull off today, still got some organizing to do, still need another 760, and time to play with the thing.
> 
> 
> 
> -AGE


Aren't you glad you listened to this old lady and went back for another look and re-analyzed









Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> ah, gotchya, maybe I should have ordered 4 then.... I wanted to stay just under 2k with this build. Thanks for the quick reply. now what to do with the two sp120s in the meantime... maybe replace the CM fans,


SP120's are better than any CM fan i can think of. So i'd def replace the cm's and not the sp's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Aren't you glad you listened to this old lady and went back for another look and re-analyzed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


We've all been glad about that at one time or another


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Would you help a brother out, I'm at 4.4 same volts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, you said you were using bios found on the kingin forums, could you link, please, I'm having 0 luck.


Post your BIOS settings, you can use a USB and take screen shots of the settings. Are you using a 3930k?

Weird my damn pc keeps turning it self on? Very strang as it did this last night also about 5 min after shuting it down. Huh! It just turned itself off.

I asked if anyone was using that BIOS, there are two of them to DL on kingping forums.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> with default windows driver, sound works fine. however, with asus sound chip driver, I have strong echo. Not sure if anyone else has this same problem?


to get ride of the echo using the RT drivers just disable all effect using the windosw properties via the sound icon.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Post your BIOS settings, you can use a USB and take screen shots of the settings. Are you using a 3930k?
> 
> Weird my damn pc keeps turning it self on? Very strang as it did this last night also about 5 min after shuting it down. Huh! It just turned itself off.
> 
> I asked if anyone was using that BIOS, there are two of them to DL on kingping forums.


yeah, I'm using a 3930k c2 stepping

multi 44
bc 100
pll overvoltage enabled
pll termination enabled
offset +.125 (1.35v under load)
LLC high
optimised phase on both cpu and memory
1.3x on both "cleaner power" settings

everything else stock
bios 0403 (launch)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> SP120's are better than any CM fan i can think of. So i'd def replace the cm's and not the sp's.


I feel different I would rather have the CM fans or others. The SP's look good but they are way over priced for what they give you!!!!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I feel different I would rather have the CM fans or others. The SP's look good but they are way over priced for what they give you!!!!


you can usually get two CM fans for the price of one corsair fan lol.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> you can usually get two CM fans for the price of one corsair fan lol.


that 2... I was playing and did a little testing with a 360 rad. with the SP's, Arctic F-12's, AP-15's and Koolance 12025HBK's using a 100 watt immersion heater. and actually I found that the SP's were the worst of the fans as far as performance. Koolance was the best above 1850 since it went to 2600 it was a little louder than the AP-15's but price/noise/performance I liked them the best.

Now this was nothing scientific I had just bought 3 each of the fans and did this to determine which ones I would use. I am not going to say I know anything but over 2 days I convinced my self.. and that is what I was after.. I used a bunch of other fans I don't even remember all of them ..

Need to sell them someday I guess.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> can somebody explain what does 'C State Limit' mean? I usually choose 'no limit' ? and what does 'blck recovery' mean, which is a new entry in R4BE BIOS.


Here you go:
http://software.intel.com/sites/products/documentation/doclib/iss/2013/amplifier/lin/ug_docs/GUID-2C1E2B07-4F5F-48ED-82F6-79BF53DE8F8B.htm


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> Ok, Welp, I feel stupid. I dont think my pins were bent, I heard the crunch, looked at the pins, realized they were angled and gave myself a panic attack. Assembled almost everything and its running great at 27*C idle, just waiting on two more fans for a push/pull and my RAM, I returned my 2133 RIPJAWS Z that was 189$ because I cought the newegg deal of 16gb of 1600 for 102$ (I'm currently running 8g of 1333 and its not so bad but I havent played any games yet)
> 
> As you can probably tell, I am rather noobish to all of this, just trying to learn.
> Can I place the corsair sp120s on the bottom and put the coolermaster seidon fans on top of the radiator? vice versa? is it bad to mix, I imaging the corsair sp120s force a bit more air out of them.
> 
> Heres what I managed to pull off today, still got some organizing to do, still need another 760, and time to play with the thing.
> 
> 
> 
> -AGE


Nice to see someone with the same case! Can't wait to get mine done. Glad to hear the MB is ok!


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> Yeah, the writing on the CPU was upside down. I read everything carefully, I'm very used to being thorough (I have a couple degrees in applied science and work in a lab) that's why I don't understand how this could have happened. I wanna say it was a problem with the mechanism... I guess I just have bad luck. I cant afford another 500$ so I guess im sending it to asus for repairs.... how much do they charge for that fix? 100$?


Here in Canada they are charging $125 to replace cpu socket on my RIVE.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> to get ride of the echo using the RT drivers just disable all effect using the windosw properties via the sound icon.


what is RT drivers, doesn't sound like the one I find on asus support page?


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> that 2... I was playing and did a little testing with a 360 rad. with the SP's, Arctic F-12's, AP-15's and Koolance 12025HBK's using a 100 watt immersion heater. and actually I found that the SP's were the worst of the fans as far as performance. Koolance was the best above 1850 since it went to 2600 it was a little louder than the AP-15's but price/noise/performance I liked them the best.
> 
> Now this was nothing scientific I had just bought 3 each of the fans and did this to determine which ones I would use. I am not going to say I know anything but over 2 days I convinced my self.. and that is what I was after.. I used a bunch of other fans I don't even remember all of them ..
> 
> Need to sell them someday I guess.


Ah, that stings a little. The sp's were only 25$ for two so it wasn't a huge loss. I read some reviews and that convinced me to buy them. I'll have to see how they suit my build before I put them off to the side or anything.


----------



## skupples

3 daaaaay weekend.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 3 daaaaay weekend.


Lucky you I'm still doing finals and pricing out my cart in the meantime, looking to get some essentials for now that don't require to much study time on while focusing on the other lists.

Was worried about what Darlene mentioned earlier but after emailing XSPC asking about options explaining the situation they replied about the Raystorm bracket.

"Hi,
You won't really gain any performance by going with the aluminium bracket, so pick the on that you prefer the look of."

SO I feel a bit better there as I do DIG the outlining vs super glowing block.


----------



## skupples

=D

My copper blocks came in today, but i'm still in post work recovery mode. Stage one being anger, stage two being caffeine consumption, stage three being yawwwwwwwn & streeettchhhhh, stage 4 being OK REST OF THE DAY GO.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> what is RT drivers, doesn't sound like the one I find on asus support page?


Realtek.....


----------



## johnnybravo

Just got this in the mail today!!! So excited!!!! May I join the club?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Realtek.....


Could you post a link here for our r4be Realtek audio driver?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Realtek.....
> 
> 
> 
> Could you post a link here for our r4be Realtek audio driver?
Click to expand...

Go here to the Asus page,

http://www.asus.com/supportonly/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITIONAC4/#support_Download

and then to Audio in the Drivers and Tools listings after selecting your OS, and find the 1 Audio driver listed:

Realtek Audio Driver V6.0.1.7058 for Windows 7/8/8.1 32bit & 64bit.(WHQL)

Darlene


----------



## jamiee

Just got my G-Skill Titan X 2400MHz 32GB kit installed.

Cleared the BIOS, loaded optimized defaults, and set everything to the same values as before - only this time I dropped the Vcore a touch and re-set XMP for this memory.

No problems to report so far!

All sticks report properly and seem to be running just fine at their default values. I have run IBT three times at HIGH and it has passed with flying colours. Next up, VERY HIGH


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Could you post a link here for our r4be Realtek audio driver?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> It is on the driver CD and on the ASUS website
> 
> yeah, I'm using a 3930k c2 stepping
> 
> multi 44
> bc 100
> pll overvoltage enabled
> pll termination enabled
> offset +.125 (1.35v under load)
> LLC high
> optimised phase on both cpu and memory
> 1.3x on both "cleaner power" settings
> 
> everything else stock
> bios 0403 (launch)


Are you trying to run offet voltages? Yours seems way high. If so you need to disable intel speed step, set the turbo on & enable C states and only CPU C1E (enabled) Package C States (No Limit). Try these settings below but lower your CPU cores to 4.6GHz. & leave your memory clocked to 1600MHz at its rated timings and voltage.

Also run your cpu at optimize default speeds and run intel burn test on very high and use a DMM if you have one and mesure from the points on the board, Core and VID. If you do not have a Digital Multi Meter then use AIDA64 or some other software that will let you read Core and VID.

You will want to watch the core and VID voltages and record the MAX Core and MAX VID then subtract the MaxCore - MaxVID = the offset you will need to set, sometimes it is a negative number.

oops! my screanshots are not in order. I also DISABLED CPU and PCIE Spread Spectrum after I did the screenshots.
This will give you something to go by.









4.7GHz/ 2133MHz CPU LLC HIGH/ CPU CURRENT 180% ( AUTO & 180% are the only settings I can use or I get the random reboots )


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My Black RIVE finally arrived today!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Box arrived with a few dents, and they RIVE box was very sloppy!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Here are some socket pics and 4930K batch number: 3325A995 Costa Rica


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Box arrived with a few dents, and they RIVE box was very sloppy!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My mobo box was pretty beat as well, fraying cardboard edges & such, but the product works so meh...

Finished flushing all three rads. I have probably 3/4 gram of crap in the bottom of the filter, & the filter it's self is all sorts of speckled with black & copper.

you got that "other" socket type,


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My mobo box was pretty beat as well, fraying cardboard edges & such, but the product works so meh...
> 
> Finished flushing all three rads. I have probably 3/4 gram of crap in the bottom of the filter, & the filter it's self is all sorts of speckled with black & copper.
> 
> you got that "other" socket type,


Nice that you got your rads cleaned up.









I don't know if having that other socket type is good or bad, but I'm having some fun lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Nice that you got your rads cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if having that other socket type is good or bad, but I'm having some fun lol


I don't think it matters.... @ all.


----------



## broken pixel

Whenever I shut my computer down it will restart by itself and then when it gets to the windows load screen it shuts down? This has happend quite a bit and I have never had a MB that likes to power itself on and off.

Raja said it could be the RST software?


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

Winning the silicon lottery with your CPU probably matters more than the socket.... It would be interesting to conduct a study no OC involved.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Just got my G-Skill Titan X 2400MHz 32GB kit installed.
> 
> Cleared the BIOS, loaded optimized defaults, and set everything to the same values as before - only this time I dropped the Vcore a touch and re-set XMP for this memory.
> 
> No problems to report so far!
> 
> All sticks report properly and seem to be running just fine at their default values. I have run IBT three times at HIGH and it has passed with flying colours. Next up, VERY HIGH


Everyone with the kit seems to run it easily at rated specs. I was recommending them from day 1


----------



## Arm3nian

My rig is randomly shutting down...

I played a game for an hour and nothing happened, when I'm sitting at the desktop for more than 5 minutes it shuts down and turns back on.


----------



## Mega Man

dear god this is awesome ~ 1.4v 4.9ghz seems stable ran prime for ~ 10 min but ill do it longer soon ! ( min ill run is 24 hours )

on the temp board i used till this came in, asrock fatality professional only got 4.6 at same voltage !


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> My rig is randomly shutting down...
> 
> I played a game for an hour and nothing happened, when I'm sitting at the desktop for more than 5 minutes it shuts down and turns back on.


post your settings please along with the cpu u have and the digi power settings.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dear god this is awesome ~ 1.4v 4.9ghz seems stable ran prime for ~ 10 min but ill do it longer soon ! ( min ill run is 24 hours )
> 
> on the temp board i used till this came in, asrock fatality professional only got 4.6 at same voltage !


Awesome! You have a good chip. What cpu? I have been dialing in 3930k @ 4.9GHz @ 1.379 with Offset voltage. I prob need about 1.389- 1.40v to be solid. I can benchmark but needs tweaking for extreme stress testing.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> My rig is randomly shutting down...
> 
> I played a game for an hour and nothing happened, when I'm sitting at the desktop for more than 5 minutes it shuts down and turns back on.


Disable LLC.
If that doesn't work disable C1-7 states.
If that doesn't work set voltage by hand.
If that doesn't work scream and post both here and on Asus support fast.

Also I heard there is some bug in LLC when it's not on auto.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Disable LLC.
> If that doesn't work disable C1-7 states.
> If that doesn't work set voltage by hand.
> If that doesn't work scream and post both here and on Asus support fast.
> 
> Also i heard there is some bug in LLC when it's not on auto.


LLC is currently on high, current capability is at 140%. Cstates on auto. It doesn't happen while gaming or benchmarking though, just when I'm on the desktop. Like currently the computer has been on for 30 minutes w/o me doing anything and it didn't shut down.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dear god this is awesome ~ 1.4v 4.9ghz seems stable ran prime for ~ 10 min but ill do it longer soon ! ( min ill run is 24 hours )
> 
> on the temp board i used till this came in, asrock fatality professional only got 4.6 at same voltage !
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! You have a good chip. What cpu? I have been dialing in 3930k @ 4.9GHz @ 1.379 with Offset voltage. I prob need about 1.389- 1.40v to be solid. I can benchmark but needs tweaking for extreme stress testing.
Click to expand...

3930k, it is in my rigs, but not in my sig !

Edit ~1.5 hours priming @90% ram bsod, belive my vcore droped too low ... trying something else now mostly temps was ~60 but did peak to 71 at one point ! loving this board.... so easy !!!


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

Ok, going back to mixing fans.... just something to propose here, what if I stack the two corsair's in front of the cooler, and have the coolermaster fans stacked in the back. the front of the radiator gets the better end of cooling before heat dissipates to the back? I'm not sure how to wire that kind of setup if i was to try it.


----------



## Mega Man

just do this
fan1 rad fan1
fan2 rad fan2

you all think max vcore of 1.425 is too much for 24/7?( just peaks ) with normally at 1.4


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Whenever I shut my computer down it will restart by itself and then when it gets to the windows load screen it shuts down? This has happend quite a bit and I have never had a MB that likes to power itself on and off.
> 
> Raja said it could be the RST software?


Hmmm? Google found this ...

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?37981-PC-reboot-instead-of-shutdown

Might want to try getting rid of the RST and see if it is the culprit.


----------



## BaldGuy

Ramdisk Info (This is with Windows 7 Professional 64 bit)

Been playing with the Ramdisk which is included on our support disk and found out something interesting I wanted to pass to everyone.

My Ramdisk wasn't showing up in windows explorer after I rebooted the PC. It was using the memory and I knew it loaded the memory. Surprising, I could see it in all other software programs. So, after I found the windows explorer options (its in a different place in then XP), I tried various settings to see if I could get it to "see" the ramdisk. I found if I enabled "Launch folder windows in a separate process", it will then show up in windows explorer.

This may been fixed in a later version of Asus Ramdisk, but I don't know how to update it. Its not part of the download files, and there is no way in the program, I see, to do a self update. So for now, I'm stuck with whatever version is on the disk they sent with the board.

Anyway, I realize everyone don't have 64 gigs of memory and most have no intention of using the included Asus RamDisk software, but thought I would pass this on to anyone who runs into the same problem.

Now, if you make a ramdisk, and reboot it once, and still see your drive in explorer, don't assume I'm full of it. It takes a few boots sometimes for your drive to "disappear"...


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Ramdisk Info (This is with Windows 7 Professional 64 bit)
> 
> Been playing with the Ramdisk which is included on our support disk and found out something interesting I wanted to pass to everyone.
> 
> My Ramdisk wasn't showing up in windows explorer after I rebooted the PC. It was using the memory and I knew it loaded the memory. Surprising, I could see it in all other software programs. So, after I found the windows explorer options (its in a different place in then XP), I tried various settings to see if I could get it to "see" the ramdisk. I found if I enabled "Launch folder windows in a separate process", it will then show up in windows explorer.
> 
> This may been fixed in a later version of Asus Ramdisk, but I don't know how to update it. Its not part of the download files, and there is no way in the program, I see, to do a self update. So for now, I'm stuck with whatever version is on the disk they sent with the board.
> 
> Anyway, I realize everyone don't have 64 gigs of memory and most have no intention of using the included Asus RamDisk software, but thought I would pass this on to anyone who runs into the same problem.
> 
> Now, if you make a ramdisk, and reboot it once, and still see your drive in explorer, don't assume I'm full of it. It takes a few boots sometimes for your drive to "disappear"...


I want to use the ram disk, but I'm worried that a random reboot could take windows out, so I'm on the fence. I've got 32GB, but I don't do much more than gaming and browsing, I just grabbed the second kit because ram is cheap. How well does the software work? Does it grab things off of other drives (meaning not the /c drive)? Do you think it could take anything out on a random reboot?

Sorry for the 20 questions, I'm swamped with work and having a really difficult time playing with my pc, I haven't even been able to finish my build log and the machine's been up for a week. Thanks in advance.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I want to use the ram disk, but I'm worried that a random reboot could take windows out, so I'm on the fence. I've got 32GB, but I don't do much more than gaming and browsing, I just grabbed the second kit because ram is cheap. How well does the software work? Does it grab things off of other drives (meaning not the /c drive)? Do you think it could take anything out on a random reboot?
> 
> Sorry for the 20 questions, I'm swamped with work and having a really difficult time playing with my pc, I haven't even been able to finish my build log and the machine's been up for a week. Thanks in advance.


The software is easy to use, and I've been using it for the last few months. You make a Ramdisk, and then tell the program which directory you want loaded onto the drive. It renames that directory as a backup, copies the contents to the Ramdisk, and creates a virtual link. When you're done, you can remove the directory or drive, and it will revert things back to the way they were. I've been making 23GB ramdisks, and loading games onto it. It leaves me 9GB for the rest of the system.

Faster than any SSDs in any RAID config.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Are you trying to run offet voltages? Yours seems way high. If so you need to disable intel speed step, set the turbo on & enable C states and only CPU C1E (enabled) Package C States (No Limit). Try these settings below but lower your CPU cores to 4.6GHz. & leave your memory clocked to 1600MHz at its rated timings and voltage.
> 
> Also run your cpu at optimize default speeds and run intel burn test on very high and use a DMM if you have one and mesure from the points on the board, Core and VID. If you do not have a Digital Multi Meter then use AIDA64 or some other software that will let you read Core and VID.
> 
> You will want to watch the core and VID voltages and record the MAX Core and MAX VID then subtract the MaxCore - MaxVID = the offset you will need to set, sometimes it is a negative number.
> 
> oops! my screanshots are not in order. I also DISABLED CPU and PCIE Spread Spectrum after I did the screenshots.
> This will give you something to go by.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.7GHz/ 2133MHz CPU LLC HIGH/ CPU CURRENT 180% ( AUTO & 180% are the only settings I can use or I get the random reboots )


are these 4,7G setting p95 v28.1 stable?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> are these 4,7G setting p95 v28.1 stable?


If not, with IBT passed, he's pretty close.

Those VCCSA settings on my rig lead to no boot, but other than CPU volts and the VCCSA digi+ settings, mine are identical. Good starting point to tweak from for ya, I think.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> are these 4,7G setting p95 v28.1 stable?


I do not know as I stopped using Prime95 back in 2008.

Any luck with your overclock?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If not, with IBT passed, he's pretty close.
> 
> Those VCCSA settings on my rig lead to no boot, but other than CPU volts and the VCCSA digi+ settings, mine are identical. Good starting point to tweak from for ya, I think.


could you post your OC bios settings here? Thanks.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> I do not know as I stopped using Prime95 back in 2008.
> 
> Any luck with your overclock?


I'm back to step zero, make sure my board is stable with "Default optimized settings" by doing 12 hrs+ p95 tests(all three kinds of p95 torture).


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> could you post your OC bios settings here? Thanks.


Do you really need the screenshots? If so, keep reminding me...I'm still not anywhere near that rig, and won't be for another 8 hours or so, but tonight....Imma gonna hammer that board into the ground and do some benching.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just do this
> fan1 rad fan1
> fan2 rad fan2
> 
> you all think max vcore of 1.425 is too much for 24/7?( just peaks ) with normally at 1.4


That´s fine for 24/7 use. Stay under 80°C.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I want to use the ram disk, but I'm worried that a random reboot could take windows out, so I'm on the fence. I've got 32GB, but I don't do much more than gaming and browsing, I just grabbed the second kit because ram is cheap. How well does the software work? Does it grab things off of other drives (meaning not the /c drive)? Do you think it could take anything out on a random reboot?
> 
> Sorry for the 20 questions, I'm swamped with work and having a really difficult time playing with my pc, I haven't even been able to finish my build log and the machine's been up for a week. Thanks in advance.


You can use it 2 ways. First you create the disk(s) using the software. You can use the "drive" to store stuff to it as you would any other drive. I'm not sure where it stores this data on your drive to be honest, but it does somewhere. You can junction directories (where games, video software, pictures, whatever) into your virtual drive. This will make a copy of the junction space in the same area you junctioned. (it does not rename as one guy said). This will also be added to your ramdisk but will be in a hidden folder. You can see this folder by enabling hidden files in your windows explorer options, but please don't modify/add files in your hidden folder.

So basically you pick what you want on your disk. You could grab the data from any available drive you have. Or save to it with any program.

You can also make more then one virtual disk.

I don't think it would be any problem with a random boot. Specially if you use the junction function more then just storing stuff on the drive. As the junction is backed up with "real" files on your drive. I would not put critical system files on it. I feel its more to speed up games and applications.

The bootup might be a bit slower as it has to load up your ramdisk drives each time into memory. Shutdown is fast even with using it, I guess due to it don't have to save to a real HD/SSD unless it sees a change in the file since it last wrote them to disk. My shutdowns are SUPER fast.

Only problem I seen so far is the one I noted above. Plus, it don't give you near the options other solutions do. They really dumbed it down a lot. For example, you can't load a pre-determined virtual disk easily. Or you can't tell it to not be persistent upon bootup, or tell it the save intervals, etc etc.

So far, I really like it. If you play games or do applications that would benefit by faster disk access (photo editing, video editing or a tons of things) I would certainly check it out. And if you use windows 7 and can't see your new drive after bootup, see my post on the issue.


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

time to start messing with stuff


----------



## danialhanson

First custom build (finally)! Like to join the club! 

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

@danialhanson *Welcome to the club & WELCOME TO OCN!*


----------



## Arm3nian

Sigh still getting random shutdown...

It's not like a stability crashes, it's like the entire computer shuts down... maybe psu problem?

It never has happened while actually playing a game or benchmarking/stress testing... everything is stable. It happens randomly when I'm watching a video or browsing the internet... really annoying. Also, it only started yesterday, after a week of everything running fine. Maybe a leak?


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Sigh still getting random shutdown...
> 
> It's not like a stability crashes, it's like the entire computer shuts down... maybe psu problem?
> 
> It never has happened while actually playing a game or benchmarking/stress testing... everything is stable. It happens randomly when I'm watching a video or browsing the internet... really annoying.


ya that's really frustrating. One time while filling my loop my reservoir exploded and went everywhere. I cleaned everything up and let it dry and then for the next 2 weeks I kept getting completely random hard shutdowns. All of the sudden they just went away. I have no clue why it happened. it was so annoying. This was with the original RIVE. did you get anything wet? Did you make sure there is nothing shorting the board.

Sorry I hope you get it worked out.

I was going nuts for 2 days. I installed my black edition and 4930k with my 780 ti classy and I kept getting bsod's like crazy. i couldn't do anything. i thought my cpu and ram were unstable but it turned out to be the bios I flashed on the ti. Sometimes computers can be really frustrating.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Maybe a loose connection from the cables.
Disconnect all cables and plug it in again .


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Sigh still getting random shutdown...
> 
> It's not like a stability crashes, it's like the entire computer shuts down... maybe psu problem?
> 
> It never has happened while actually playing a game or benchmarking/stress testing... everything is stable. It happens randomly when I'm watching a video or browsing the internet... really annoying. Also, it only started yesterday, after a week of everything running fine. Maybe a leak?


post your settings, plus digi power stuff also.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> ya that's really frustrating. One time while filling my loop my reservoir exploded and went everywhere. I cleaned everything up and let it dry and then for the next 2 weeks I kept getting completely random hard shutdowns. All of the sudden they just went away. I have no clue why it happened. it was so annoying. This was with the original RIVE. did you get anything wet? Did you make sure there is nothing shorting the board.
> 
> Sorry I hope you get it worked out.
> 
> I was going nuts for 2 days. I installed my black edition and 4930k with my 780 ti classy and I kept getting bsod's like crazy. i couldn't do anything. i thought my cpu and ram were unstable but it turned out to be the bios I flashed on the ti. Sometimes computers can be really frustrating.


I didn't install any washers on the cpu waterblock because I lost them and the instructions only showed it for 1155 not 2011. Nothing else to seems to be touching it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Maybe a loose connection from the cables.
> Disconnect all cables and plug it in again .


Everything seems connected securely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> post your settings, plus digi power stuff also.


Everything is on auto.


----------



## broken pixel

IntelBurnTest v2.54
Created by AgentGOD

Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3930K CPU @ 3.20GHz
Clock Speed: 4.80 GHz
Active Physical Cores: 12
Total System Memory: 16323 MB

Stress Level: Custom (14000 MB)
Testing started on 12/13/2013 4:59:46 PM
Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
[17:07:25] 378.617 133.0614 2.932771e-002
[17:14:58] 376.281 133.8876 2.932771e-002
[17:22:30] 375.785 134.0641 2.932771e-002
[17:30:02] 374.869 134.3915 2.932771e-002
[17:37:34] 375.256 134.2530 2.932771e-002
[17:45:06] 375.007 134.3424 2.932771e-002
[17:52:36] 373.503 134.8833 2.932771e-002
[18:00:05] 372.811 135.1337 2.932771e-002
[18:07:36] 373.892 134.7429 2.932771e-002
[18:15:06] 373.458 134.8996 2.932771e-002
Testing ended on 12/13/2013 6:15:06 PM
Test Result: Success.

4.8GHz/ 2133MHz

Core offset +0.010/ Max voltage 1.376v software
VTT/ 1.100v
VCCSA/ 1.100v
PLL/ 1.750v

CPU LLC/ Ultra High
CPU Current/ 180%
CPU Voltage Freq/ Auto
CPU Power Duty/ T. Probe
Vcore MOS +6v
CPU Power Phase/ Extreme


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IntelBurnTest v2.54
> Created by AgentGOD
> 
> Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3930K CPU @ 3.20GHz
> Clock Speed: 4.80 GHz
> Active Physical Cores: 12
> Total System Memory: 16323 MB
> 
> Stress Level: Custom (14000 MB)
> Testing started on 12/13/2013 4:59:46 PM
> Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
> [17:07:25] 378.617 133.0614 2.932771e-002
> [17:14:58] 376.281 133.8876 2.932771e-002
> [17:22:30] 375.785 134.0641 2.932771e-002
> [17:30:02] 374.869 134.3915 2.932771e-002
> [17:37:34] 375.256 134.2530 2.932771e-002
> [17:45:06] 375.007 134.3424 2.932771e-002
> [17:52:36] 373.503 134.8833 2.932771e-002
> [18:00:05] 372.811 135.1337 2.932771e-002
> [18:07:36] 373.892 134.7429 2.932771e-002
> [18:15:06] 373.458 134.8996 2.932771e-002
> Testing ended on 12/13/2013 6:15:06 PM
> Test Result: Success.
> 
> 4.8GHz/ 2133MHz
> 
> Core offset +0.010/ Max voltage 1.376v software
> VTT/ 1.100v
> VCCSA/ 1.100v
> PLL/ 1.750v
> 
> CPU LLC/ Ultra High
> CPU Current/ 180%
> CPU Voltage Freq/ Auto
> CPU Power Duty/ T. Probe
> Vcore MOS +6v
> CPU Power Phase/ Extreme


Nice. Now that I'm finally back home I'm gong to see about getting stable over 4.5 GHz.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Nice. Now that I'm finally back home I'm gong to see about getting stable over 4.5 GHz.


Happy Clocking, good luck!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FX45Guy*
> 
> Join me up.... Comes tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnybravo*
> 
> Just got this in the mail today!!! So excited!!!! May I join the club?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My Black RIVE finally arrived today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> time to start messing with stuff
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danialhanson*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First custom build (finally)! Like to join the club!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


GRATS Guys! Sorry for the delay, Finals week and I'm up to my head in playing catchup w/ some assignment and iptables are giving me issues. That + trying to put together my parts list XD and staying active on Ebay / Ebay.uk / Ebay.au / Taobao / yahoo auctions japan and others for anime figures of the past!

Looking forward to hearing your results, I'll be updating the main page once finals are over next week to include all the new information on bios / best experiences w/ RAM and other issues!

Anywhoo Grats!!

Also ! taking Darlene's advice About the pure Acetyl (w/ small copper plate) for the Ray storm and talking w/ XSPC a bit, had an idea and emailed them abou tit.

Asked them first what the black block was that's connected to the copper plate and they said it was acetyl plastic, guessing it was painted but was thinking otherwise.

So after confirming my belief's gonna go w/ this since it's a FULL copper block.



Then swap the bracket for the acrylic bracket to maintain the LED aspect!



Thoughts? I should see somewhat of an improvement over the pure acetyl right?

Cuz c'mon this is def sexy! (gonna be in red)





Let me know what you guys think especially you Darlene, I really wanna get a sexy look in but I don't ignore advice either


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Happy Clocking, good luck!


Thanks


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

OK, last night after setting everything up. I got my CPu to 4.6 on 1.4V and ran ok. So, that confirms that my limitation was my Old motherboard. Gonna go with whatever 1.5V gets me lol
I'm also back on good old air cooling, until me new WC components arrive. My memory ran at 2400 MHZ 9-11-11-31 no problems whatsoever.

I spend some time reading the manual and there is a way to share BIOS settings, will look into it with more detail. That way we can easily share OC settings and profiles.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Go down to the timings 9-11-11-25- t1 and look then if it works.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> OK, last night after setting everything up. I got my CPu to 4.6 on 1.4V and ran ok. So, that confirms that my limitation was my Old motherboard. Gonna go with whatever 1.5V gets me lol
> I'm also back on good old air cooling, until me new WC components arrive. My memory ran at 2400 MHZ 9-11-11-31 no problems whatsoever.
> 
> I spend some time reading the manual and there is a way to share BIOS settings, will look into it with more detail. That way we can easily share OC settings and profiles.


You going to push for 1.5v? I should be able to get 4.8 at that, perhaps 4.9 with tweaking.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

1,5V is too much. 1,4v at 4,6 is ok.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> 1,5V is too much. 1,4v at 4,6 is ok.


If you're gonna kill it might as well OVER Kill it


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> 1,5V is too much. 1,4v at 4,6 is ok.


WC profile has it at 1.55, not sure if that's for sb-e but the board is made for ivy-e so I'm guessing ivy-e.


----------



## skupples

Asus wants you to let the smoke out.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Asus wants you to let the smoke out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> WC profile has it at 1.55, not sure if that's for sb-e but the board is made for ivy-e so I'm guessing ivy-e.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> If you're gonna kill it might as well OVER Kill it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> 1,5V is too much. 1,4v at 4,6 is ok.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> You going to push for 1.5v? I should be able to get 4.8 at that, perhaps 4.9 with tweaking.


If it burns, it burns









On water, 1.5V should be ok, If anything I'll back off to a 1.475V for 24/7. i want my moneys worth for all the WC components and fancy Board. for wimpy Overclocks, I could have stayed with my Gigabyte board and Evo 212.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FX45Guy*
> 
> Join me up.... Comes tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *johnnybravo*
> 
> Just got this in the mail today!!! So excited!!!! May I join the club?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My Black RIVE finally arrived today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> time to start messing with stuff
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *danialhanson*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First custom build (finally)! Like to join the club!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> GRATS Guys! Sorry for the delay, Finals week and I'm up to my head in playing catchup w/ some assignment and iptables are giving me issues. That + trying to put together my parts list XD and staying active on Ebay / Ebay.uk / Ebay.au / Taobao / yahoo auctions japan and others for anime figures of the past!
> 
> Looking forward to hearing your results, I'll be updating the main page once finals are over next week to include all the new information on bios / best experiences w/ RAM and other issues!
> 
> Anywhoo Grats!!
> 
> Also ! taking Darlene's advice About the pure Acetyl (w/ small copper plate) for the Ray storm and talking w/ XSPC a bit, had an idea and emailed them abou tit.
> 
> Asked them first what the black block was that's connected to the copper plate and they said it was acetyl plastic, guessing it was painted but was thinking otherwise.
> 
> So after confirming my belief's gonna go w/ this since it's a FULL copper block.
> 
> 
> 
> Then swap the bracket for the acrylic bracket to maintain the LED aspect!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts? I should see somewhat of an improvement over the pure acetyl right?
> 
> Cuz c'mon this is def sexy! (gonna be in red)
> 
> Let me know what you guys think especially you Darlene, I really wanna get a sexy look in but I don't ignore advice either
Click to expand...

I suggested the aluminum bracket because the track record shows it to give more consistently good results, particularly with respect to the 2011 chips, and it isn't at risk for cracking.

B Neg followed up in agreement that that's the best way to go.

You can use the acrylic bracket if you really want the LED's, and they do look very nice.

Lots of 2011 builds have used the acrylic bracket, so it's not a disaster waiting to happen.

Just be cautious during the install and don't over muscle the thing.

The full copper is a really pretty block, it may be a tad better than the plain one.

If you're going to use the plexi mounting bracket, be sure to be really careful and patient with the installation.

When you screw down the retention screws, make sure they are all even at the bracket with the bracket level on the block, and start from there..

Screw down alternate corners about a turn at a time. . . . As it gets tight, about half a turn at a time.

It's really critical to apply pressure evenly at all 4 corners as you snug it down.

Uneven or excessive pressure will crack the plexi.

Darlene


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> If it burns, it burns
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On water, 1.5V should be ok, If anything I'll back off to a 1.475V for 24/7. *i want my moneys worth for all the WC components and fancy Board. for wimpy Overclocks, I could have stayed with my Gigabyte board and Evo 212.*


This x100

IVY-E doesn't even run hot, you could achieve most of the clocks on air with some good paste.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> This x100
> 
> IVY-E doesn't even run hot, you could achieve most of the clocks on air with some good paste.


I'm back on air, using the EVO 212 and temps are not an issue. Can't wait to get home and tinker with my settings. Will Try and figure out the ASUS Built in feature to easily share BIOS settings. Read that in the manual before heading out this afternoon.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'm back on air, using the EVO 212 and temps are not an issue. Can't wait to get home and tinker with my settings. Will Try and figure out the ASUS Built in feature to easily share BIOS settings. Read that in the manual before heading out this afternoon.


I put mine at 5ghz and 1.50 for the lols and I was getting well below 80c. This is with rads with basically no fans on them, and a waterblock installed incorrectly...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I put mine at 5ghz and 1.50 for the lols and I was getting well below 80c. This is with rads with basically no fans on them, and a waterblock installed incorrectly...


Geeeezuuus! you got it to 5.0? That's what I'm talking about, right there. I can imagine the Firestrike Physics scores. Whats your memory speed?

MInd posting your BIOS settings?


----------



## broken pixel

Im working on 4.9GHz under 1.40v with my 3930k. ☆ Chip way better than my first one i had. It had a weak IMC and would only run dual ch. after 5 months. I didnt even clock it past 4.8GHz 24/7. Intel RMA for CPUs is fast even if you do not x ship and pay.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I suggested the aluminum bracket because the track record shows it to give more consistently good results, particularly with respect to the 2011 chips, and it isn't at risk for cracking.
> 
> B Neg followed up in agreement that that's the best way to go.
> 
> You can use the acrylic bracket if you really want the LED's, and they do look very nice.
> 
> Lots of 2011 builds have used the acrylic bracket, so it's not a disaster waiting to happen.
> 
> Just be cautious during the install and don't over muscle the thing.
> 
> The full copper is a really pretty block, it may be a tad better than the plain one.
> 
> If you're going to use the plexi mounting bracket, be sure to be really careful and patient with the installation.
> 
> When you screw down the retention screws, make sure they are all even at the bracket with the bracket level on the block, and start from there..
> 
> Screw down alternate corners about a turn at a time. . . . As it gets tight, about half a turn at a time.
> 
> It's really critical to apply pressure evenly at all 4 corners as you snug it down.
> 
> Uneven or excessive pressure will crack the plexi.
> 
> Darlene


Appreciate it and will do , Hoping the lights look just as sexy w/ the Copper vs the Acetyl Acrylic core, repped btw !








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> This x100
> 
> IVY-E doesn't even run hot, you could achieve most of the clocks on air with some good paste.


What's the best thermal paste there for CPU's/GPU's?

Last time I applied paste it was just either go Arctic Silver or Diamond. Pretty sure there are new variants around.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Im working on 4.9GHz under 1.40v with my 3930k. ☆ Chip way better than my first one i had. It had a weak IMC and would only run dual ch. after 5 months. I didnt even clock it past 4.8GHz 24/7. Intel RMA for CPUs is fast even if you do not x ship and pay.


Are you talking about the 30$ OC warranty?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Ramdisk Info (This is with Windows 7 Professional 64 bit)
> 
> Been playing with the Ramdisk which is included on our support disk and found out something interesting I wanted to pass to everyone.
> 
> My Ramdisk wasn't showing up in windows explorer after I rebooted the PC. It was using the memory and I knew it loaded the memory. Surprising, I could see it in all other software programs. So, after I found the windows explorer options (its in a different place in then XP), I tried various settings to see if I could get it to "see" the ramdisk. I found if I enabled "Launch folder windows in a separate process", it will then show up in windows explorer.
> 
> This may been fixed in a later version of Asus Ramdisk, but I don't know how to update it. Its not part of the download files, and there is no way in the program, I see, to do a self update. So for now, I'm stuck with whatever version is on the disk they sent with the board.
> 
> Anyway, I realize everyone don't have 64 gigs of memory and most have no intention of using the included Asus RamDisk software, but thought I would pass this on to anyone who runs into the same problem.
> 
> Now, if you make a ramdisk, and reboot it once, and still see your drive in explorer, don't assume I'm full of it. It takes a few boots sometimes for your drive to "disappear"...


thanks i am looking into getting 64gig for this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Are you trying to run offet voltages? Yours seems way high. If so you need to disable intel speed step, set the turbo on & enable C states and only CPU C1E (enabled) Package C States (No Limit). Try these settings below but lower your CPU cores to 4.6GHz. & leave your memory clocked to 1600MHz at its rated timings and voltage.
> 
> Also run your cpu at optimize default speeds and run intel burn test on very high and use a DMM if you have one and mesure from the points on the board, Core and VID. If you do not have a Digital Multi Meter then use AIDA64 or some other software that will let you read Core and VID.
> 
> You will want to watch the core and VID voltages and record the MAX Core and MAX VID then subtract the MaxCore - MaxVID = the offset you will need to set, sometimes it is a negative number.
> 
> oops! my screanshots are not in order. I also DISABLED CPU and PCIE Spread Spectrum after I did the screenshots.
> This will give you something to go by.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.7GHz/ 2133MHz CPU LLC HIGH/ CPU CURRENT 180% ( AUTO & 180% are the only settings I can use or I get the random reboots )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are these 4,7G setting p95 v28.1 stable?
Click to expand...

you know that prime is on 29.7 ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danialhanson*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First custom build (finally)! Like to join the club!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @danialhanson *Welcome to the club & WELCOME TO OCN!*


yep +1

so guys priming is next !


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








all with the dirtiest oc ever on my ram


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Geeeezuuus! you got it to 5.0? That's what I'm talking about, right there. I can imagine the Firestrike Physics scores. Whats your memory speed?
> 
> MInd posting your BIOS settings?


Believe it or not everything is on auto on bios, not going to tweak till I redo my loop. Memory running 2400 9-11-11-31-1T, haven't pushed it, but it's the good ic trident x so can probably get 2600 with 10cas. I'm not sure what I can do at 1.55 but I do want to try it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Appreciate it and will do , Hoping the lights look just as sexy w/ the Copper vs the Acetyl Acrylic core, repped btw !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the best thermal paste there for CPU's/GPU's?
> 
> Last time I applied paste it was just either go Arctic Silver or Diamond. Pretty sure there are new variants around.


GC extreme and pk-3 is good stuff. CLU is still the best, but idk if you want to deal with cleaning it.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Appreciate it and will do , Hoping the lights look just as sexy w/ the Copper vs the Acetyl Acrylic core, repped btw !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the best thermal paste there for CPU's/GPU's?
> 
> Last time I applied paste it was just either go Arctic Silver or Diamond. Pretty sure there are new variants around.




I'm not saying don't get the full cu if you like it, but the regular acetal raystorm did better than the full cu.

More info:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?282245-Stren-s-2012-CPU-Water-Block-Roundup

I used Phobya hegrease on my blocks, tried indigo xtreme, and the reflow went bad on me and I didn't want to waste any more time on it. I just did a 24 hour folding stress test test to assure stability:
GTX titan 2 way sli at 1150/7000 (superclocked bios) and 3930k @ 4.4 (all cores) 1.3v. The cpu was 73c on the hottest core and neither GPU exceeded 50c. That's with 1 magicool triple 180 rad and 3 ap 181s on max. I think it did pretty damn good for a first timer.

I don't think it matters a whole lot what you use, the prolimitech (spelling?) stuff is getting a lot of hype right now.

I got my hegrease for xoxide for ~$7, it seems to work well and has no burn in time.

Hope I helped.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Are you talking about the 30$ OC warranty?


No just a standard RMA without a credit card payment to intel that they credit back if the CPU you sent in has no physical damage ie cross-ship.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> 
> 
> *I'm not saying don't get the full cu if you like it, but the regular acetal raystorm did better than the full cu.*
> 
> More info:
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?282245-Stren-s-2012-CPU-Water-Block-Roundup
> 
> I used Phobya hegrease on my blocks, tried indigo xtreme, and the reflow went bad on me and I didn't want to waste any more time on it. I just did a 24 hour folding stress test test to assure stability:
> GTX titan 2 way sli at 1150/7000 (superclocked bios) and 3930k @ 4.4 (all cores) 1.3v. The cpu was 73c on the hottest core and neither GPU exceeded 50c. That's with 1 magicool triple 180 rad and 3 ap 181s on max. I think it did pretty damn good for a first timer.
> 
> I don't think it matters a whole lot what you use, the prolimitech (spelling?) stuff is getting a lot of hype right now.
> 
> I got my hegrease for xoxide for ~$7, it seems to work well and has no burn in time.
> 
> *Hope I helped*.


Yes and appreciate it! +1

Interesting, guess I'll stick w/ the norm then, still has copper @ the bottom, but odd that it'd do worse? Was kinda curious how the copper would look w/ the red lights almost in it from the acrylic bracket too, can't find anyone that's done it on google though.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yes and appreciate it! +1
> 
> Interesting, guess I'll stick w/ the norm then, still has copper @ the bottom, but odd that it'd do worse? Was kinda curious how the copper would look w/ the red lights almost in it from the acrylic bracket too, can't find anyone that's done it on google though.


I can send some pics of my system, I've got the acetal raystorm, though, but it's all lit up red. I can't remember for sure, but I think he mentioned that all full copper blocks tend to do worse than dual material blocks. I'm 99% sure it's in his review.


----------



## skupples

all metal blocks definitely take longer to heat up, and also cool down. Doing reflow on all copper takes 2-3x the time as it does on a 50/50 block.


----------



## _REAPER_

Good lord please post bios settings I will be home in 4 days leaving Afghan on the 17th I am looking for a 4.5ghz OC setting. 64 gig of RAM.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Good lord please post bios settings I will be home in 4 days leaving Afhgan on the 17th I am looking for a 4.5ghz OC setting. 64 gig of RAM.


thank you so much for your service ! we in america owe you guys so much !


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Good lord please post bios settings I will be home in 4 days leaving Afhgan on the 17th I am looking for a 4.5ghz OC setting. 64 gig of RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> thank you so much for your service ! we in america owe you guys so much !
Click to expand...

No one owes me a thing boss man, I volunteered...


----------



## skupples




----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I can send some pics of my system, I've got the acetal raystorm, though, but it's all lit up red. I can't remember for sure, but I think he mentioned that all full copper blocks tend to do worse than dual material blocks. I'm 99% sure it's in his review.


Would def love to see







and that's fine w/ the red, did you use the default red lights that came w/ or did you buy brighter ones from amazon/PPC? Kpoeticg was mentioning something about higher brightness LED's for GPU's CPU's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Good lord please post bios settings I will be home in 4 days leaving Afghan on the 17th I am looking for a 4.5ghz OC setting. 64 gig of RAM.


Glad to hear you're safe, as I see the Military Time's alot about there whenever I visit the NEX, I might be going out next year depending on how many slots we're slated per command. How long was your stay ? 12-18 months?


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Would def love to see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and that's fine w/ the red, did you use the default red lights that came w/ or did you buy brighter ones from amazon/PPC? Kpoeticg was mentioning something about higher brightness LED's for GPU's CPU's.


I grabbed some dual red leds with passthrough molex from frozencpu, no idea on brand just search "dual 3mm tailed led red" on frozencpu's website. I sleeved them as well. They're fairly crappy, the connections come out easy, I just reinserted them and used electrical tape to keep them down.

Here are some pictures in the dark:




for some reason, OCN flipped all of them, can't figure out how to stop it

Edit, got 2 of them fixed


----------



## broken pixel

She wont do under 1.40v @ 4.9GHz but I did get close with a 1.424v with +0.055 offset voltage.

IntelBurnTest v2.54
Created by AgentGOD

Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3930K CPU @ 3.20GHz
Clock Speed: 4.90 GHz
Active Physical Cores: 12
Total System Memory: 16323 MB

Stress Level: Custom (14000 MB)
Testing started on 12/13/2013 11:04:43 PM
Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
[23:12:16] 374.223 134.6236 2.932771e-002
[23:19:45] 374.482 134.5304 2.932771e-002
[23:27:15] 374.591 134.4914 2.932771e-002
[23:34:43] 372.930 135.0905 2.932771e-002
[23:42:08] 370.536 135.9632 2.932771e-002
[23:49:35] 371.866 135.4770 2.932771e-002
[23:57:02] 371.666 135.5499 2.932771e-002
[00:04:30] 372.610 135.2066 2.932771e-002
[00:11:57] 372.671 135.1845 2.932771e-002
[00:19:26] 374.026 134.6946 2.932771e-002
Testing ended on 12/14/2013 12:19:27 AM
Test Result: Success.

4.9GHz/ 2133MHz

Core offset +0.055/ Max voltage 1.424v software
VTT/ 1.100v
VCCSA/ 1.100v
PLL/ 1.750v

CPU LLC/ Ultra High
CPU Current/ 180%
CPU Voltage Freq/ Auto
CPU Power Duty/ T. Probe
Vcore MOS +6v
CPU Power Phase/ Extreme


----------



## asfgbdnf

I notice there is a new function 'SSD security erase' in R4BE bios. Anyone has a support device list?


----------



## jamiee

Strange thing...

Last night my system ran perfectly fine at 4.2GHz and 1.23v (Seven passes of IBT at varying intensities up to very high).
Not a single problem.

This morning I booted the PC - NO JOY!... just sat there with a blank screen.

Forced a reboot and went into the BIOS and set 1.25v

...Again, same no boot. Just the blank screen.

Forced a reboot again - went into the BIOS and set 1.26v

This time it booted into Windows and appears OK, though I haven't tested it for stability yet.

Maybe I need to re-evaluate my settings with the new memory running at 2400MHz?
I was expecting the 8x4GB sticks of the older 2133MHz G-Skll Ripjaws-z to be harder on the IMC, but I guess that's not the case.


----------



## BuffaloChaser

I just put my new Asus Rampage IV Black Edition machine together. What a pain. The Support DVD was BAD and I had to download all the drivers one by one from the support site. Now I find out that they don't have any of the third party software from the DVD available on their website. If anyone burned an ISO I would appreciate an email to me with a download location so I can get it.
Thanks


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Here you go buddy! I suggest buying a lic for 39 bucks. I have been using a floating magic key for years for AIDA and I actually purchased my own key last night. AIDA64 released an update for there software to support the R4BE after a user email them within 24hrs time frame.
> 
> linky
> http://users.aida64.com/aida64extreme_build_2721_r4be.zip


Thanks for this


----------



## BuffaloChaser

Thanks, But I need the Third Party Software from the DVD not the Drivers. I downloaded all those. RAMDISK etc.


----------



## Raghar

Mail Asus support with request for a working DVD. You need unique licence numbers for commercial SW.


----------



## Mega Man

good point


----------



## skupples

If it's third party software shouldn't he be able to get it from said third party?


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> If it's third party software shouldn't he be able to get it from said third party?


Is there anything worthwhile on the support CD? I've never even used mine. I haven't owned any optical drives in 10 years.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> If it's third party software shouldn't he be able to get it from said third party?
> 
> 
> 
> Is there anything worthwhile on the support CD? I've never even used mine. I haven't owned any optical drives in 10 years.
Click to expand...

asus ramdisk, kapersky anti virus 1 year and ( spelling ) deamon tools iirc


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Is there anything worthwhile on the support CD? I've never even used mine. I haven't owned any optical drives in 10 years.


The usual bloatware, desktop OC programs, chipset drivers, lan drivers, usb drivers, chrome, probably some other stuff on the pages I never go to.


----------



## Seallone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> That´s fine for 24/7 use. Stay under 80°C.


is that core temp ?


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> asus ramdisk, kapersky anti virus 1 year and ( spelling ) deamon tools iirc


Well the only thing I needed from that list is RAMDISK and anyone can download that on the ASUS support site. You don't even need a ASUS or ROG board for it to work.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> asus ramdisk, kapersky anti virus 1 year and ( spelling ) deamon tools iirc
> 
> 
> 
> Well the only thing I needed from that list is RAMDISK and anyone can download that on the ASUS support site. You don't even need a ASUS or ROG board for it to work.
Click to expand...

afaik you cant so a linky would be appreciated

side note i actually think the i/o cover takes heat out ! it was pretty warm during stressinng


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Strange thing...
> 
> Last night my system ran perfectly fine at 4.2GHz and 1.23v (Seven passes of IBT at varying intensities up to very high).
> Not a single problem.
> 
> This morning I booted the PC - NO JOY!... just sat there with a blank screen.
> 
> Forced a reboot and went into the BIOS and set 1.25v
> 
> ...Again, same no boot. Just the blank screen.
> 
> Forced a reboot again - went into the BIOS and set 1.26v
> 
> This time it booted into Windows and appears OK, though I haven't tested it for stability yet.
> 
> Maybe I need to re-evaluate my settings with the new memory running at 2400MHz?
> I was expecting the 8x4GB sticks of the older 2133MHz G-Skll Ripjaws-z to be harder on the IMC, but I guess that's not the case.


I've had random no-POSTs at times too. I think it's just a buggy BIOS, and will be fixed in time.


----------



## BuffaloChaser

If anyone has the disk, if they can make an .iso I would appreciate it.

What I am looking for is the RAMDISK and RAMCACHE software. It is third party. I have 32Gb of 2400 Mhz RAM and I am booting off a Samsung PRO SSD and I can create a ram cache to cache my drive, it significantly increase performance. Also, you set up a static RAMDISK and use that space for the Windows swap file. The performance increase is exponential. There is a great video on Youtube here about setting up the RAMDISK and it's performance.






It gets into the RAMDISK stats about 4 minutes in.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> I've had random no-POSTs at times too. I think it's just a buggy BIOS, and will be fixed in time.


Yes I'm quite sure you are right.

Did some experimenting today with CPU and RAM running at default speeds:
All major BIOS settings set to defaults with XMP enabled = fairly quick crash & reboot of PC while running IBT (custom run) with memory usage set to 15360.

I noted during this run that the cpu vcore never got much past 1.26v

Next up, I changed CPU and VCCSA LLC to HIGH and rebooted (no other changes made).

Running the same IBT custom run = FULLY PASSED!

During this run I noticed while under stress the cpu vcore would raise to between 1.296v and 1.310v
(Clearly keeping droop to a minimum and keeping the CPU stable).


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuffaloChaser*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone has the disk, if they can make an .iso I would appreciate it.
> 
> What I am looking for is the RAMDISK and RAMCACHE software. It is third party. I have 32Gb of 2400 Mhz RAM and I am booting off a Samsung PRO SSD and I can create a ram cache to cache my drive, it significantly increase performance. Also, you set up a static RAMDISK and use that space for the Windows swap file. The performance increase is exponential. There is a great video on Youtube here about setting up the RAMDISK and it's performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It gets into the RAMDISK stats about 4 minutes in.


Not sure about the cache, but you can get the ramdisk software from the asus website.


----------



## hotrod717

Woot! Just picked my mobo off the doorstep. That's about as fast as fedex smartpost gets. Ordered 12/12 , arrived 12/14.

Now if I can find a chip at a decent price, I'll be in business.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Strange thing...
> 
> Last night my system ran perfectly fine at 4.2GHz and 1.23v (Seven passes of IBT at varying intensities up to very high).
> Not a single problem.
> 
> This morning I booted the PC - NO JOY!... just sat there with a blank screen.
> 
> Forced a reboot and went into the BIOS and set 1.25v
> 
> ...Again, same no boot. Just the blank screen.
> 
> Forced a reboot again - went into the BIOS and set 1.26v
> 
> This time it booted into Windows and appears OK, though I haven't tested it for stability yet.
> 
> Maybe I need to re-evaluate my settings with the new memory running at 2400MHz?
> I was expecting the 8x4GB sticks of the older 2133MHz G-Skll Ripjaws-z to be harder on the IMC, but I guess that's not the case.


OC the CPU first with 1600 MHz mems until stable. Then after you know the CPU is solid OC the memory.

You will need to run IBT on a custom memory setting that allows IBT to utilize at least 95% of memory so windows can still function during the test. And run it 10 times. I used 14000MB since I have 16GB of system mems.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I notice there is a new function 'SSD security erase' in R4BE bios. Anyone has a support device list?


What controller you use? I used it on my XLR8 Pros and theybuse sandforce controllers. It should be fine most SSDs that have been around. Google it what ssd controllers work with secure erase?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Strange thing...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Last night my system ran perfectly fine at 4.2GHz and 1.23v (Seven passes of IBT at varying intensities up to very high).
> Not a single problem.
> 
> This morning I booted the PC - NO JOY!... just sat there with a blank screen.
> 
> Forced a reboot and went into the BIOS and set 1.25v
> 
> ...Again, same no boot. Just the blank screen.
> 
> Forced a reboot again - went into the BIOS and set 1.26v
> 
> This time it booted into Windows and appears OK, though I haven't tested it for stability yet.
> 
> Maybe I need to re-evaluate my settings with the new memory running at 2400MHz?
> I was expecting the 8x4GB sticks of the older 2133MHz G-Skll Ripjaws-z to be harder on the IMC, but I guess that's not the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OC the CPU first with 1600 MHz mems until stable. Then after you know the CPU is solid OC the memory.
> 
> You will need to run IBT on a custom memory setting that allows IBT to utilize at least 95% of memory so windows can still function during the test. And run it 10 times. I used 14000MB since I have 16GB of system mems.
Click to expand...

i never can do that, i usually use as much as i can atm i am testing 75% but i usually web surf so the res is almost used, ( i leave tons of tabs open.... )


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> What controller you use? I used it on my XLR8 Pros and theybuse sandforce controllers. It should be fine most SSDs that have been around. Google it what ssd controllers work with secure erase?


i use Sammy 840 pro with MDX Controller. Not sure it is supported or not? Asus doesn't publish any info regarding this.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> i use Sammy 840 pro with MDX Controller. Not sure it is supported or not? Asus doesn't publish any info regarding this.


I'm going to have to assume that all the common SSD controllers are supported. Specially sammy models.


----------



## broken pixel

Secure erase
from the rog forums
It's now live!

Go to the product page and Support>Memory/Device Support>Secure Erase compatible SSDs list


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Well the only thing I needed from that list is RAMDISK and anyone can download that on the ASUS support site. You don't even need a ASUS or ROG board for it to work.


Any chance you could provide the link where anyone can download RAMDISK?

I looked high and low and want to see if they have a newer version to download then what I got on my disk.

Thanks.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Secure erase
> from the rog forums
> It's now live!
> 
> Go to the product page and Support>Memory/Device Support>Secure Erase compatible SSDs list


LOL, not available for r4be at this moment.


----------



## broken pixel

If it wont work it wont work. If I try using OCZ secure erase via the OCZ tiny linux ISO on my PNY SSDs it says not compatible. But I was able to use the secure erase with no problems for my PNY XLR8 Pros SSDs that have SF3 controllers.

From my brief google search it says

Samsung Magician Software Download (Uses Secure erase) It zaps the nands with some voltage to erase them. ZAP!
The Magician SSD management utility is designed to work with all Samsung SSD products, including 470 Series, 830 Series, and 840 Series Family SSDs. This software is not compatible with other manufacturer's SSDs.

http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/samsungssd/downloads.html


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Any chance you could provide the link where anyone can download RAMDISK?
> 
> I looked high and low and want to see if they have a newer version to download then what I got on my disk.
> 
> Thanks.


Just get it from the Maximus support page. http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/MAXIMUS-VI-EXTREME/RamDisk_20103.zip


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> OC the CPU first with 1600 MHz mems until stable. Then after you know the CPU is solid OC the memory.
> 
> You will need to run IBT on a custom memory setting that allows IBT to utilize at least 95% of memory so windows can still function during the test. And run it 10 times. I used 14000MB since I have 16GB of system mems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> OC the CPU first with 1600 MHz mems until stable. Then after you know the CPU is solid OC the memory.
> 
> You will need to run IBT on a custom memory setting that allows IBT to utilize at least 95% of memory so windows can still function during the test. And run it 10 times. I used 14000MB since I have 16GB of system mems.


Unfortunately down-clocking the memory to 1600MHz doesn't seem to help with CPU stability.
I've tried everything I can think of (within reason) to get 4.2GHz stable and NO LUCK. (tried up to vcore=1.35v).

It's weird that I was able to get 4.2GHz stable with 8 sticks of RAM, but with 4 I'm not having any luck.

I have tested the RAM using Windows Memory Diagnostic on it's highest setting and it passes each time.


----------



## skupples

meh, you literally have to use a pen to get GPU's out of this thing it's so small.


----------



## bughole5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> meh, you literally have to use a pen to get GPU's out of this thing it's so small.


Yes, you do-- I will confirm this. Then again, I am using a mid-tower case and so I am not able to shift my two cards down one slot away from the cpu fan.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bughole5*
> 
> Yes, you do-- I will confirm this. Then again, I am using a mid-tower case and so I am not able to shift my two cards down one slot away from the cpu fan.




Even in this beast there is no room, it's the mobo lay out. I only weigh 165 lb, but my fingers must be fat because I can't stick them in between the ROG logo to hit the switch...

BTW, I held this up next to my Max V Formula, they are the exact same size.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Even in this beast there is no room, it's the mobo lay out. I only weigh 165 lb, but my fingers must be fat because I can't stick them in between the ROG logo to hit the switch...
> 
> BTW, I held this up next to my Max V Formula, they are the exact same size.


Yeah it's ridiculous. I had to bend my card down and push the switch with the tip of my finger to get it out.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Yeah it's ridiculous. I had to bend my card down and push the switch with the tip of my finger to get it out.


Simple mod to fix a 1st world problem, had to do it on the rIVe


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> Simple mod to fix a 1st world problem, had to do it on the rIVe


sooo... Zero locking mechanism? They just slide in and all ALL WILLY NILLY?!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Yeah it's ridiculous. I had to bend my card down and push the switch with the tip of my finger to get it out.


Meh, just use a pen!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Even in this beast there is no room, it's the mobo lay out. I only weigh 165 lb, but my fingers must be fat because I can't stick them in between the ROG logo to hit the switch...
> 
> BTW, I held this up next to my Max V Formula, they are the exact same size.


That's what this is for:










The end is notched so it doesn't slip off the clip; just use it to push the clip gently. I am surprised that other people haven't mentioned it.

Try it, and you'll never use anything else!


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> sooo... Zero locking mechanism? They just slide in and all ALL WILLY NILLY?!
> Meh, just use a pen!


Took me a minute to get that, I don't use cases so the locking mech. doesn't help with anything, it just makes it difficult to pull cards with multi-gpu. In a case with a vertical mobo they do serve a purpose...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That's what this is for:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end is notched so it doesn't slip off the clip; just use it to push the clip gently. I am surprised that other people haven't mentioned it.
> 
> Try it, and you'll never use anything else!


Looked in the rIVe box & they hadn't though of that tool then. It would have been handy at times, I usually used a pen or pencil but they can never be found when needed.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Even in this beast there is no room, it's the mobo lay out. I only weigh 165 lb, but my fingers must be fat because I can't stick them in between the ROG logo to hit the switch...
> 
> BTW, I held this up next to my Max V Formula, they are the exact same size.
> 
> 
> 
> That's what this is for:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end is notched so it doesn't slip off the clip; just use it to push the clip gently. I am surprised that other people haven't mentioned it.
> 
> Try it, and you'll never use anything else!
Click to expand...

Didn't come with any of my 3 RIVE/F boards


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> Looked in the rIVe box & they hadn't though of that tool then. It would have been handy at times, I usually used a pen or pencil but they can never be found when needed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Didn't come with any of my 3 RIVE/F boards


Comes with Maximus VI Extreme and with this Rampage VI BE board. Maybe the Maximus VI Formula and Gene too...I'd have to check my boxes downstairs.









It IS very useful, and since ASUS tends to use the same slot types for most of their boards, it's a handy tool to have around as a board reviewer or as a bencher.









ASUS did a lot of good stuff with this board, and the Haswell boards. Same with the OC panel....doesn't have to be used with an ROG board if you use it for GPUs....and it works on all recent ROG boards.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Didn't come with any of my 3 RIVE/F boards
> 
> 
> 
> Comes with Maximus VI Extreme and with this Rampage VI BE board. Maybe the Maximus VI Formula and Gene too...I'd have to check my boxes downstairs.
Click to expand...

Ah, mine are too OLD then..


----------



## skupples

I already lost that thing in the sea of boxes & parts, it may show up once I clean up the office.


----------



## saer

Any update on the EK blocks ?


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That's what this is for:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end is notched so it doesn't slip off the clip; just use it to push the clip gently. I am surprised that other people haven't mentioned it.
> 
> Try it, and you'll never use anything else!


Good thinking... I was just using a flathead screwdriver. Unwieldly at best.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Hey I've been looking around for a solution for my problem with my board but I can't seem to find anyone else who ran into the same situation. My RIVBE was working fine for 2 days with a single 780 in a custom waterloop. I tried to add in a 2nd air cooled 780 and my system refused to boot. It gave me a msg window asking to connect the pcie to the graphics card which I had already done. Tried to reset it then it began to cycle on and off nonstop, does not even load up to bios, just like couple seconds power cycles. I had first thought it could possibly be a short so I disassembled my whole system double checked it all and put it back together and it still does it. Took it out of the case to test it and it does the same thing. I threw back in my old Sabertoooth x79 and it boots up and can get into bios. Any ideas what went wrong? I just ended up RMA'ing it after 2 days of frustration tearing down and putting back my system.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey I've been looking around for a solution for my problem with my board but I can't seem to find anyone else who ran into the same situation. My RIVBE was working fine for 2 days with a single 780 in a custom waterloop. I tried to add in a 2nd air cooled 780 and my system refused to boot. It gave me a msg window asking to connect the pcie to the graphics card which I had already done. Tried to reset it then it began to cycle on and off nonstop, does not even load up to bios, just like couple seconds power cycles. I had first thought it could possibly be a short so I disassembled my whole system double checked it all and put it back together and it still does it. Took it out of the case to test it and it does the same thing. I threw back in my old Sabertoooth x79 and it boots up and can get into bios. Any ideas what went wrong? I just ended up RMA'ing it after 2 days of frustration tearing down and putting back my system
> 
> 
> .


did you ever try it again with a single GPU?


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IntelBurnTest v2.54
> Created by AgentGOD
> 
> Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3930K CPU @ 3.20GHz
> Clock Speed: 4.80 GHz
> Active Physical Cores: 12
> Total System Memory: 16323 MB
> 
> Stress Level: Custom (14000 MB)
> Testing started on 12/13/2013 4:59:46 PM
> Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
> [17:07:25] 378.617 133.0614 2.932771e-002
> [17:14:58] 376.281 133.8876 2.932771e-002
> [17:22:30] 375.785 134.0641 2.932771e-002
> [17:30:02] 374.869 134.3915 2.932771e-002
> [17:37:34] 375.256 134.2530 2.932771e-002
> [17:45:06] 375.007 134.3424 2.932771e-002
> [17:52:36] 373.503 134.8833 2.932771e-002
> [18:00:05] 372.811 135.1337 2.932771e-002
> [18:07:36] 373.892 134.7429 2.932771e-002
> [18:15:06] 373.458 134.8996 2.932771e-002
> Testing ended on 12/13/2013 6:15:06 PM
> Test Result: Success.
> 
> 4.8GHz/ 2133MHz
> 
> Core offset +0.010/ Max voltage 1.376v software
> VTT/ 1.100v
> VCCSA/ 1.100v
> PLL/ 1.750v
> 
> CPU LLC/ Ultra High
> CPU Current/ 180%
> CPU Voltage Freq/ Auto
> CPU Power Duty/ T. Probe
> Vcore MOS +6v
> CPU Power Phase/ Extreme


+rep, you are awesome, my 3930k is stable at 4.6 at 1.33v now, I'm ready to try for 4.7. What's even better is the massive reduction in cpu PLL had LOWERED my temps. This is *the* SB-e-RIVBE overclock guide, I think these settings should be posted in the OP alongside the bios revision.


----------



## broken pixel

Thanks for the +rep, glad it helped out.


----------



## binormalkilla

Seems like sandy bridge chips are doing much better on this board so far. I haven't seen anyone get over 4.5 GHz with a 4930k without random reboots :\


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> did you ever try it again with a single GPU?


Ya, I back tracked my steps. Took out the 2nd GPU, tried to boot but it kept power cycling on and off. Swapped PCIE power connections, added the extra molex power connect to see if extra power helped, and swapped GPUs to test and got nada. This was with a Thermaltake 1200w Toughpower Grand PSU. Just want to figure out what happened before I screw up something again when the board returns.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Ya, I back tracked my steps. Took out the 2nd GPU, tried to boot but it kept power cycling on and off. Swapped PCIE power connections, added the extra molex power connect to see if extra power helped, and swapped GPUs to test and got nada. This was with a Thermaltake 1200w Toughpower Grand PSU. Just want to figure out what happened before I screw up something again when the board returns.


That psu should be more than enough for two cards, unless you were pumping 1.4v @ 1400mhz 7.5ghz memory in 2D clocks... Which I doubt. Having the pci-e slot disabled shouldn't cause this either... I'm stumped, but that doesn't mean much. I wish you better luck with the new/repaired unit.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Seems like sandy bridge chips are doing much better on this board so far. I haven't seen anyone get over 4.5 GHz with a 4930k without random reboots :\


The random factor implies that the cpu clock rate might not have anything to do with it. SB-E is obviously the better clocker with current IVY-E batches, but no one has pushed beyond the 1.4. Most users who are running in the 5.1-5.3 ranges of SB-E are past the Intel recommendation. Staying in it, most seem to get 4.8 with a decent chip.

Also, today for example, I've had no random reboots.


----------



## rabidz7

snort ur cpus! themz are intellz


----------



## Braxos

A hint latest 4.3 Samsung magician has a issue NOT recognizing all Samsung ssd. Samsung is knows this and they are working on a new version.
830 256gb bulk isn't recognized.
Reports on other forums that 840 pro 128 and 830 128 have same issue.
Not all, but some.

So just update to it and roll back to a working one, for me it is 4.2.1

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Braxos*
> 
> A hint latest 4.3 Samsung magician has a issue NOT recognizing all Samsung ssd. Samsung is knows this and they are working on a new version.
> 830 256gb bulk isn't recognized.
> Reports on other forums that 840 pro 128 and 830 128 have same issue.
> Not all, but some.
> 
> So just update to it and roll back to a working one, for me it is 4.2.1
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk


same problem here


----------



## Nunzi

Just got my board & 4930k so far im able to do 4.6g @1.3 v under load

no reboots seems solid 9 hours of prime some crysis3 ...BF4

thoughts!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> sooo... Zero locking mechanism? They just slide in and all ALL WILLY NILLY?!
> Meh, just use a pen!
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a minute to get that, I don't use cases so the locking mech. doesn't help with anything, it just makes it difficult to pull cards with multi-gpu. In a case with a vertical mobo they do serve a purpose...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That's what this is for:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end is notched so it doesn't slip off the clip; just use it to push the clip gently. I am surprised that other people haven't mentioned it.
> 
> Try it, and you'll never use anything else!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looked in the rIVe box & they hadn't though of that tool then. It would have been handy at times, I usually used a pen or pencil but they can never be found when needed.
Click to expand...

it is just a magnet.... i have used flat head screw drivers for a while on these !

side note what exactly does vcore mos do ? and whats a safe range?
also what is a safe range for pll ?

so far 24hours prime stable !!!!


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so far 24hours prime stable !!!!


could you post your bios setting here? thanks


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nunzi*
> 
> Just got my board & 4930k so far im able to do 4.6g @1.3 v under load
> 
> no reboots seems solid 9 hours of prime some crysis3 ...BF4
> 
> thoughts!!


*Welcome to DA CLUB!*


----------



## Mega Man

once i reboot i can


----------



## jamiee

How are you guys getting your overclocks?

I've somehow managed to get 4.25GHz seemingly stable by selecting Manual instead of Auto or XMP and setting the multiplier to x35 and bus to 125MHz

.....BUT......

In BIOS It's showing the CPU @ 3.375GHz and in Windows it's showing 4.25Ghz tops.
I have both Speedstep & Turbo disabled, so what's going on here?

Also every time I attempt to set the multiplier to any value... Turbo becomes activated and causes instability in Windows if I don't disable it first.

CPU-Z clearly shows a multiplier of 34 is being used (see screenshot below), even though I've set 35 in BIOS.
This board is confusing the heck out of me!


----------



## skupples

ohh nice! Base clock OC ftw! Treat that ivy like its a bulldozer!


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ohh nice! Base clock OC ftw! Treat that ivy like its a bulldozer!


Lol, I'm trying to.... but it feels like I'm pushing Mt. Everest!









I don't get why I can't set the CPU clock multiplier independent of Turbo being enabled.
The only way I can overclock with any sort of stability is to kill Speedstep & Turbo, and increase the bus clock.

34x125 = 4.25GHz

BUT how do I change the clock multiplier and not have the BIOS automatically re-enable Turbo?

I know the RIVE could do this, so what gives?

BTW, my 4930k Batch Code is: 3331B498


----------



## skupples

Just in case anyone was wondering, with 900D you get about 1-2MM clearance from the VRM's with 60mm rad in p/p.


----------



## jamiee

Brought the memory up to 2333MHz and set the multiplier to 34 (since that's what it wants to run at anyway).



I just finished a custom 10GB/10 pass run of IBT and it passed.
I'm now starting a 20GB/10 pass run - but my experience is that if IBT passes on HIGH, it will most likely pass any higher setting as well.

I've also re-booted the PC several times without any hiccups. Seems my CPU is liking the higher bus speed


----------



## cobz

My validation.. http://valid.canardpc.com/2hcxft


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is just a magnet.... i have used flat head screw drivers for a while on these !


That's WHY it's a magnet, and not a sticker...so you can stick it to your case and then easily access it if you need to pull a card out. It's really designed to be used to let the clips loose... as per ASUS staff.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That's WHY it's a magnet, and not a sticker...so you can stick it to your case and then easily access it if you need to pull a card out. It's really designed to be used to let the clips loose... as per ASUS staff.


cadaveca, do you have access to your r4be rig? waiting for your bios setting


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> cadaveca, do you have access to your r4be rig? waiting for your bios setting


Yep!

What sort of settings do you want? I got a few stable configs now...

I got bios shots of 4.6-2133 already done, 2666, I just need to load profile, test to verify still stable, and I can screencap that. Then I got to edit pics, upload, blah, blah....

so what config?










Dominators?

G.skill 32 GB @ 2400?

Low clock or high clock?

IVB-E? or SB-E?

Single GPU or dual?

Nvidia or AMD?


----------



## FX45Guy

Here's my IvyB-E results:

Stock out of the box and no changes I can hit 4.5GHz (BCLK-100 w/45 Multiplier). Vcore is around 1.325V.

I can hit 4.6GHz with Vcore at 1.4V. 4.7GHz crashes immediately. Temps in the low 70s.

Memory is Corsair Dominator (4x4G) @ 2400 C10.

Any thoughts on hitting 4.7 and above?
Everything is stock except changing to XMP and Vcore.

Thanks


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Stay at 4,6 and 1,4 V 2400Mhz is fine too and lower the timings step by step. Thats what I would do.
4,7 GHz you will reatch with 1,5 V or higher thats to mutch.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Low clock or high clock?
> 
> IVB-E? or SB-E?
> 
> Single GPU or dual?
> 
> Nvidia or AMD?


This reminds me of Akazuking Cha Cha. "Cha Cha we have A, or B, or C. Which gift would you like to get?" Cha Cha said: All of them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That's WHY it's a magnet, and not a sticker


How does it work with Aluminium cases?


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That's WHY it's a magnet, and not a sticker...so you can stick it to your case and then easily access it if you need to pull a card out. It's really designed to be used to let the clips loose... as per ASUS staff.


But... many of us have aluminium cases!


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Never ever again







because if you mod a alu case your hand are from a very old man


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> But... many of us have aluminium cases!


Many ALU cases have steel back I/o plates.

And I dunno, man, I don't work for ASUS, I'm just regurgitating.










LOL.

(stick it to your desk, like I do.







)










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Never ever again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because if you mod a alu case your hand are from a very old man


Yeah, Al dries your skin pretty quickly.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ohh nice! Base clock OC ftw! Treat that ivy like its a bulldozer!


i thought the pcie bus was connected so we could not use blk as it will cause corruption


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i thought the pcie bus was connected so we could not use blk as it will cause corruption


Clock away man, 100, 125, 166 and +/- 18 or so MHz is fine, just disable unneeded stuff when pushing outside the dividers more than 5 MHz. 105 works fine, same applies to 120 to 130, 160 to 171, and even then some. You cannot get over 2400 MHz ram without BCLK adjust, and well over 3000 MHz have been posted I am sure. There was 3000 MHz Samsung posted in this thread, even, or maybe it was the other one...


----------



## danialhanson

Hey guys,

Trying to boot up for the first time, and the board lights up but I get nothing else. No lights. No sound. No fan movement. Nothing. Any suggestions?

Thanks!










Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danialhanson*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Trying to boot up for the first time, and the board lights up but I get nothing else. No lights. No sound. No fan movement. Nothing. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


Did you connect the 4pin up top? Have you tried clearing the Cmos? Why is the sound card LED white?


----------



## USFORCES

How fast is boot up using a SSD on this board, like in seconds?


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> How fast is boot up using a SSD on this board, like in seconds?


Should be around 10 seconds or less depending on how you have the BIOS configured and the speed of your SSD.


----------



## jamiee

Mov'n on up.....

Now at 4.318GHz CPU and 2370MHz RAM


----------



## danialhanson

Got it. It was the 4pin. I had it plugged in, but with a PCIe cable, not a CPU cable from my power supply. That white light is the start button on the mobo.

Everything is running now, but I get a *CPU Fan Error!* when booting. Both of my cpu heatsink fans are running, so I'm not sure what the issue is. Going to continue troubleshooting.

Thanks for the reply!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danialhanson*
> 
> Got it. It was the 4pin. I had it plugged in, but with a PCIe cable, not a CPU cable from my power supply. That white light is the start button on the mobo.
> 
> Everything is running now, but I get a *CPU Fan Error!* when booting. Both of my cpu heatsink fans are running, so I'm not sure what the issue is. Going to continue troubleshooting.
> 
> Thanks for the reply!


np, you need a fan hooked up to the actual CPU header to keep that spam from showing up.

The red line of epicness from the on board audio looks white in your picture. Must be the phone camera quality + my color blindness.


----------



## danialhanson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> np, you need a fan hooked up to the actual CPU header to keep that spam from showing up.
> 
> The red line of epicness from the on board audio looks white in your picture. Must be the phone camera quality + my color blindness.


Ah. Gotcha.. Yeah, I moved the fan plug to the main header, and I was still getting the error, so I went into the BIOS under Monitor CPU Fan Speed is red and it's reporting ~480RPM. Not sure what the problem would be, but that appears to be the source of the issue...

Other than that, I just have two peripheral cables to hook up from my case and I'm good to go! (one is for the fan LEDs, can't figure out where that goes on the board, and the other I'm not sure of, it's a 2-pin male with a brown and black cable -- case is a coolermaster Stryker).


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danialhanson*
> 
> Got it. It was the 4pin. I had it plugged in, but with a PCIe cable, not a CPU cable from my power supply. That white light is the start button on the mobo.
> 
> Everything is running now, but I get a *CPU Fan Error!* when booting. Both of my cpu heatsink fans are running, so I'm not sure what the issue is. Going to continue troubleshooting.
> 
> Thanks for the reply!




No 2. is the CPU fan header. If you are not using it you will get "Fan Error! Press F1"

If you do not intend to use it, enter bios, open "Monitor" tab, click on "Fan Speed Monitor", Where "CPU Fan Speed" says N/A, click on it and set to Ignore, press F10, save and restart......


----------



## danialhanson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> 
> 
> No 2. is the CPU fan header. If you are not using it you will get "Fan Error! Press F1"
> 
> If you do not intend to use it, enter bios, open "Monitor" tab, click on "Fan Speed Monitor", Where "CPU Fan Speed" says N/A, click on it and set to Ignore, press F10, save and restart......


Thanks a bunch for the response! I do have it connected to that header, and it's running. The Monitor screen in the BIOS is reporting ~480 RPMs for that fan, which display as red. I think it's concerned that the fan may be running too slowly... I'm not terribly worried about it.

Thanks again!


----------



## alancsalt

In which case go into "Monitor" tab, click on "Fan Speed Control" and change the speed limits..... By default meant to be over 600 RPM.


----------



## danialhanson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> In which case go into "Monitor" tab, click on "Fan Speed Control" and change the speed limits..... By default meant to be over 600 RPM.


Done. Problem resolved. Thanks for the help!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danialhanson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> np, you need a fan hooked up to the actual CPU header to keep that spam from showing up.
> 
> The red line of epicness from the on board audio looks white in your picture. Must be the phone camera quality + my color blindness.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah. Gotcha.. Yeah, I moved the fan plug to the main header, and I was still getting the error, so I went into the BIOS under Monitor CPU Fan Speed is red and it's reporting ~480RPM. Not sure what the problem would be, but that appears to be the source of the issue...
> 
> Other than that, I just have two peripheral cables to hook up from my case and I'm good to go! (one is for the fan LEDs, can't figure out where that goes on the board, and the other I'm not sure of, it's a 2-pin male with a brown and black cable -- case is a coolermaster Stryker).
Click to expand...

you dont, it is for the CM fans only it ONLY gets yhooked up to the case fan controller


----------



## Aftermath2006

so i have a huge problem the active back plates for AC waterblocks do not fit under the large heat sink on the BE they would make it under the ram slots but hit the heat sink so now i got the sli connect for the active back plates and the back plates and neither will work now i have to put my build on hold yet again to wait for the water block for BE


----------



## Arm3nian

What's the difference between the two 12v connectors up top? I'm guessing the 4pin is if your psu only has 4pin cpu and the 8pin if your psu has two 4pin for the cpu right?


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, Al dries your skin pretty quickly.


And you can´t wash it off, it´s horrible 3 days later under the nails is still alu


----------



## owikh84

Mem OC on *ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition* is awesome

Samsung kit @ 2800 9-12-12-25-1T QUAD channel


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> What's the difference between the two 12v connectors up top? I'm guessing the 4pin is if your psu only has 4pin cpu and the 8pin if your psu has two 4pin for the cpu right?


the atx design all have 2 CPU power connectors , however most boards do not make use of them as they are not needed in normal use

all they do is allow you a bigger power reserve to pull amperage from. however i would advise against using only the 4 pin, if you choose to use just 1 i would only use the 8 pin

anyone able to shed light on vcore mos what does it affect and what is safe ranges for 24/7 ?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84*
> 
> Mem OC on *ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition* is awesome
> 
> Samsung kit @ 2800 9-12-12-25-1T QUAD channel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are you running that vcore for 24/7?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> so i have a huge problem the active back plates for AC waterblocks do not fit under the large heat sink on the BE they would make it under the ram slots but hit the heat sink so now i got the sli connect for the active back plates and the back plates and neither will work now i have to put my build on hold yet again to wait for the water block for BE


no no no, just sit them one slot lower.


----------



## Aftermath2006

wouldnt that run them in x8 not x16 plus that would change the spacing for the sli connector as well wouldnt it


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> wouldnt that run them in x8 not x16 plus that would change the spacing for the sli connector as well wouldnt it


you could run them in 2 & 4 if you are using that size FC-Link. It's a cheaper/less time consuming option than returning/buying new blocks. Yes, it would run them in 8x8, which @ this point in time, even with titans will render zero real world difference, unless you are a hardcore bencher seeking the 1fps.


----------



## Rental Home

Hi I'm new to overlock.net but I got my system up and running with the RIVBE and I was wondering if I could join the club.
Thanks


----------



## skupples

@Rental Home

Welcome to OCN!


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## Rental Home

Thanks for the kind welcome. I don't suppose you could give me some advice on overclocking a 4930k on the RIVBE because whenever I overclock the cpu it stays fine through prime95 but when I shut down the computer and start it up again it keeps shutting down by itself before it gets to the windows screen. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rental Home*
> 
> Thanks for the kind welcome. I don't suppose you could give me some advice on overclocking a 4930k on the RIVBE because whenever I overclock the cpu it stays fine through prime95 but when I shut down the computer and start it up again it keeps shutting down by itself before it gets to the windows screen. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks


some of these other fine chaps may be able to. I'm one of the odd balls sticking a 3930k into my board, which is still in the building phase.

Just so you know, it seems to be a common issue right now, which means it will likely get better with bios revolutions.


----------



## Rental Home

Ok that's a relief. Because I keep setting it back to stock speeds because I'm worried that the cpu can't handle the 4.4ghz overclock because of the continuous shutting down. I also tried 4.2ghz but the same thing happens. Hope this issue gets resolved soon.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Hi and Welcome to OCN !

We all can help you with your problems, 4.4GHz is always possible.
And i see you have a Corsair H110 is that right.
I sad that corsiar have no SP140 Quit Editons you have the normal AF140 right ?


----------



## Rental Home

Its the h100i and if you could help me get 4.4ghz you would be a lifesaver


----------



## Rental Home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi and Welcome to OCN !
> 
> We all can help you with your problems, 4.4GHz is always possible.
> And i see you have a Corsair H110 is that right.
> I sad that corsiar have no SP140 Quit Editons you have the normal AF140 right ?


There the sp120's on the h100i. I didn't use the stock fans because they were really noisy.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

push / pull i hope







drops the temps more, sure we all can help post your UEFI setting an I / we can say how to chance









I have a RIVE but there not many difference.

Which processor which memory you have in there?

I see Domis but with one


----------



## Rental Home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> push / pull i hope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drops the temps more, sure we all can help post your UEFI setting an I / we can say how to chance


Unfortunately they aren't currently in push/pull. Once I get some more money I'll hopefully get another twin pack of the sp120's


----------



## Mega Man

soo.... yea 36 hours 100% stable @ ~90% memory usage !


----------



## Rental Home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> soo.... yea 36 hours 100% stable @ ~90% memory usage !


Wow! What cooler are you using? My temps on the 4930k with the h100i almost hit 80 when I was running prime95.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rental Home*
> 
> Unfortunately they aren't currently in push/pull. Once I get some more money I'll hopefully get another twin pack of the sp120's


Thats shout you really do, the temps drop is big enough and much bigger when overclocking the CPU, you need every little °C less is useful.
Can make the diffrence if you have 100 or 200Mhz stabil more or less, thats own expirence with a H110.









With Thermal Combound are you use ?

You say u are in the 80is ? then you have to buy fast as you can a nother twin pack and Liquid Ultra Metal Thermal Combound. If you do this your temps drop 5-8 °C for sure.

80°C is 24/7 absolutely max


----------



## Rental Home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Thats shout you really do, the temps drop is big enough and much bigger when overclocking the CPU, you need every little °C less is useful.
> Can make the diffrence if you have 100 or 200Mhz stabil more or less, thats own expirence with a H110.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With Thermal Combound are you use ?


Just the one that came pre-applied with the h100i. Don't suppose you have got any pictures of the bios settings for a stable 4.4ghz overclock cause I really want to get this chip running stable at that speed


----------



## Rental Home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Thats shout you really do, the temps drop is big enough and much bigger when overclocking the CPU, you need every little °C less is useful.
> Can make the diffrence if you have 100 or 200Mhz stabil more or less, thats own expirence with a H110.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With Thermal Combound are you use ?
> 
> You say u are in the 80is ? then you have to buy fast as you can a nother twin pack and Liquid Ultra Metal Thermal Combound. If you do this your temps drop 5-8 °C for sure.
> 
> 80°C is 24/7 absolutely max


Your right I probably do need to buy another twin pack and some better thermal paste but I most likely won't do that until I overclock the cpu to even a mild 4.2ghz. Do you know if cpu level up has stable voltages because I could use that but when I use that it sets my ram speed at 1333mhz when with xmp it should run at 2133mhz.
By the way I'm not that great at overclocking


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

First of all before we start to get a good overclocking result.

1. A new twin Pack
2. Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra (Metal) or if you don´t want to you metal compound the the Gelid GC Extreme.
This are the best you can buy.

The pre-applied Thermal Compound is crap, only from chanceing this compound to the best one you can get 2-3 °C lower temps.

And for good results you have to get the lowest possible temps you can achieve.

4.4GHz is to mutch for your coolling i think, we start this when you have lower temps, because all over 80°C can be unstabil.
You will never find a good stabil setting because of the high temps.


----------



## Rental Home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> First of all before we start to get a good overclocking result.
> 
> 1. A new twin Pack
> 2. Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra (Metal) or if you don´t want to you metal compound the the Gelid GC Extreme.
> This are the best you can buy.
> 
> The pre-applied Thermal Compound is crap, only from chanceing this compound to the best one you can get 2-3 °C lower temps.
> 
> And for good results you have to get the lowest possible temps you can achieve.


I will definitely get a new twin pack as soon as possible but as for the thermal compound is it worth it considering it will only be 2-3 degrees lower? Also what settings would you recommend for a mild 4.2ghz overclock to get me going in the mean time. I've tried 4.2 at 1.3, 1.28 and 1.25 volts. 1.3 got way too hot, 1.28 stayed under 80 degrees (around 75 most of the time) on prime95 and I got blue screens on 1.25.
Thanks


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Your running way to hot for your cooling, i can´t give you any settings right now its impossible !
Prime 95 and only 75°C max then we are in a save place for 24/7 stability.

And yes, 2-3°C is for only less money is a really good achivement.
You can be happy about each degree less.

And a good Thermal Compound is not expensive maybe 10$.


----------



## Rental Home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> First of all before we start to get a good overclocking result.
> 
> 1. A new twin Pack
> 2. Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra (Metal) or if you don´t want to you metal compound the the Gelid GC Extreme.
> This are the best you can buy.
> 
> The pre-applied Thermal Compound is crap, only from chanceing this compound to the best one you can get 2-3 °C lower temps.
> 
> And for good results you have to get the lowest possible temps you can achieve.
> 
> 4.4GHz is to mutch for your coolling i think, we start this when you have lower temps, because all over 80°C can be unstabil.
> You will never find a good stabil setting because of the high temps.


That's a shame as I thought the h100i would be a good cooler but if it can't cool a 4.4ghz overclock then that's pretty disappointing. Looks like its stock speeds until I get more fans for push pull


----------



## Rental Home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Your running way to hot for your cooling, i can´t give you any settings right now its impossible !
> Prime 95 and only 75°C max then we are in a save place for 24/7 stability.
> 
> And yes, 2-3°C is for only less money is a really good achivement.
> You can be happy about each degree less.
> 
> And a good Thermal Compound is not expensive maybe 10$.


Does that mean I might have damaged the cpu because it was getting close to 80 degrees in prime95 with 4.2ghz at 1.28 volts.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

The H110 or the Swiftech H220 are better the the H100.
These two I had bought before the h100 at your agency, which are up to date with the best compact water cooling systems.
Now we have to tune your H100 to the max and this includes better thermal compound too.

You don´t damage your CPU when go over 80°C no, but over this point it can be really unstabil.
And for 24/7 use i recommend max 75°C.

And i think we are talking about 24/7 stability.

Read this then you understand a little bit more:
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition


----------



## Rental Home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> The H110 or the Swiftech H220 are better the the H100.
> These two I had bought before the h100 at your agency, which are up to date with the best compact water cooling systems.
> Now we have to tune your H100 to the max and this includes better thermal compound too.


Ok thanks you have been a big help. I think I'll forget about overclocking for the rest of the day and do some gaming.
Thanks


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Ok happy gaming !


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rental Home*
> 
> That's a shame as I thought the h100i would be a good cooler but if it can't cool a 4.4ghz overclock then that's pretty disappointing. Looks like its stock speeds until I get more fans for push pull


I'd get better paste and do a couple of remounts. You're not running a loop so you can remount as many times as you want without having to redo everything. H100i is a pretty good cooler, it shouldn't be that far away from custom water at that clock rate, custom water pulls away once the volts and clocks go up a bit more.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Your running way to hot for your cooling, i can´t give you any settings right now its impossible !
> Prime 95 and only 75°C max then we are in a save place for 24/7 stability.


Uhh my 4960X can take 85 degrees or more on cores without any problems in Prime95 with H100i, of course when I'm gaming it's not running even remotely close to those temps. The TJMAX is 95 degs C anyway for my CPU. It's more of a personal preference if you need to run that cool.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Brought the memory up to 2333MHz and set the multiplier to 34 (since that's what it wants to run at anyway).
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished a custom 10GB/10 pass run of IBT and it passed.
> I'm now starting a 20GB/10 pass run - but my experience is that if IBT passes on HIGH, it will most likely pass any higher setting as well.
> 
> I've also re-booted the PC several times without any hiccups. Seems my CPU is liking the higher bus speed


you really need to do a custom setting with just enough memory for windows to still operate to determine solid stabablity. I use 95% of the system memory when testing and notice sets that passed on very high did not pass on custome 95% of memory.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Uhh my 4960X can take 85 degrees or more on cores without any problems in Prime95 with H100i, of course when I'm gaming it's not running even remotely close to those temps. The TJMAX is 95 degs C anyway for my CPU. It's more of a personal preference if you need to run that cool.


80c is the recommended temperature, not a personal preferance. It's a personal preference if you want to run it higher. The tj max was 105 for normal ivy, yet the recommended was also 80c. For max cpu life for 24/7 you want to stay under it.

On a side note, anyone running windows 8/8.1 unpark their cores? I read places that on 8 they are already unparked but one tool I used said they weren't. Any updated tools for w8 and hexacores?


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 80c is the recommended temperature, not a personal preferance. It's a personal preference if you want to run it higher. The tj max was 105 for normal ivy, yet the recommended was also 80c. For max cpu life for 24/7 you want to stay under it.
> 
> On a side note, anyone running windows 8/8.1 unpark their cores? I read places that on 8 they are already unparked but one tool I used said they weren't. Any updated tools for w8 and hexacores?


When I checked my cpu it said two of my cores where parked, win8.1.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> When I checked my cpu it said two of my cores where parked, win8.1.


Yeah same here, there is a beta of that tool but it reports my clock rate at 1mhz. The task manager also reports my clock rate at 1mhz. I think it can be done manually via the registry.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84*
> 
> Mem OC on *ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition* is awesome
> 
> Samsung kit @ 2800 9-12-12-25-1T QUAD channel


dram volt?


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Yeah same here, there is a beta of that tool but it reports my clock rate at 1mhz. The task manager also reports my clock rate at 1mhz. I think it can be done manually via the registry.


the unpark tool i used did unpark the two cores that where parked.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yep!
> 
> What sort of settings do you want? I got a few stable configs now...
> 
> I got bios shots of 4.6-2133 already done, 2666, I just need to load profile, test to verify still stable, and I can screencap that. Then I got to edit pics, upload, blah, blah....
> 
> so what config?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dominators?
> 
> G.skill 32 GB @ 2400?
> 
> Low clock or high clock?
> 
> IVB-E? or SB-E?
> 
> Single GPU or dual?
> 
> Nvidia or AMD?


I appreciate your help. I'm interested in following settings.
IVB-E 4.5G
Dominators 4x4G 2666c10 quad channel, second and third timings
Single Nvidia GK110 gpu


----------



## Rental Home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yep!
> 
> What sort of settings do you want? I got a few stable configs now...
> 
> I got bios shots of 4.6-2133 already done, 2666, I just need to load profile, test to verify still stable, and I can screencap that. Then I got to edit pics, upload, blah, blah....
> 
> so what config?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dominators?
> 
> G.skill 32 GB @ 2400?
> 
> Low clock or high clock?
> 
> IVB-E? or SB-E?
> 
> Single GPU or dual?
> 
> Nvidia or AMD?


I don't suppose you've got any pics for a 4.4 or 4.6ghz overclock on a 4930k with h100i
Specs are rivbe, 4930k, 780ti, dominator platinum 16gb 2133 4x4, h100i
Any stable overclock would be greatly appreciated








Thanks


----------



## Rental Home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Ok happy gaming !


After playing some assassin's creed 4 I decided to order the intel extreme tuning plan and a twin pack of sp120s so I can do push pull. Once the fans arrive it will be overclock time


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> When I checked my cpu it said two of my cores where parked, win8.1.


#
what does 'parked/unparked' mean here?
My win 8.1 task manger doesn;t report 1mhz, however, it gives inaccurate readings of cpu freq. After some experiments, it turns out cpu freq. reported by win8.1 task manager is the multiplier times base BCLK(100) .for example, BCLK=125, multiplier=32, yield 4.0G, however, task manager reports 100*32 = 3.2G


----------



## centvalny

Easy oc with this board without complicated settings

I'm using Thermaltake 2.0 and a fan for pwm

Vcore 1.2V and Vdimm 1.65V (Voltages may vary depending on cpu, rams and cooling)







Load 4X4GB Samsung 2700



Just changed Dram cas lat. to 10



Testings





Use oc panel to change cpu bclk, multipliers or voltages in windows





RIVBE bios auto rules already tuned to be perfect. Use it.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Easy oc with this board without complicated settings
> 
> I'm using Thermaltake 2.0 and a fan for pwm
> Vcore 1.2V and Vdimm 1.65V
> 
> RIVBE bios auto rules already tuned to be perfect. Use it.


try tRRD = 4, tWR = 8


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rental Home*
> 
> That's a shame as I thought the h100i would be a good cooler but if it can't cool a 4.4ghz overclock then that's pretty disappointing. Looks like its stock speeds until I get more fans for push pull


Hi ,something's not right.... im using the older h100 on my 4930k @4.6 & 1.3v.. max temps are under 80c running prime95 max heat!!

check your mount on the cpu & or replace thermal compound............


----------



## jamiee

I'm convinced I have a crappy overclocking 4930K (Batch: 3331B498).

I'm simply fighting way too hard for what should be simple overclocks with this thing....
So I'm going to order another 4930K from a local PC shop and hopefully get a completely different batch number.

I'd like to see 4.4 - 4.6GHz 24/7 stable at or under 1.35v with decent ram speed.

I'm confident this 4930K from Newegg won't even touch 4.4GHz @ 1.4v

I have a spare RIVE (my first one) sitting in a box, so maybe I'll drop this particular CPU in it and build a nice little system for someone








(Someone that doesn't overclock.....)


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> I'm convinced I have a crappy overclocking 4930K (Batch: 3331B498).
> 
> I'm simply fighting way too hard for what should be simple overclocks with this thing....
> So I'm going to order another 4930K from a local PC shop and hopefully get a completely different batch number.
> 
> I'd like to see 4.4 - 4.6GHz 24/7 stable at or under 1.35v with decent ram speed.
> 
> I'm confident this 4930K from Newegg won't even touch 4.4GHz @ 1.4v
> 
> I have a spare RIVE (my first one) sitting in a box, so maybe I'll drop this particular CPU in it and build a nice little system for someone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Someone that doesn't overclock.....)


I think i'm gonna get my processor from microcenter when I pass by them and see what they have. I still wonder if there is any truth to the batches thing? 529.99 for a 4930k and $269.99 for a 4820k.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rental Home*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> soo.... yea 36 hours 100% stable @ ~90% memory usage !
> 
> 
> 
> Wow! What cooler are you using? My temps on the 4930k with the h100i almost hit 80 when I was running prime95.
Click to expand...

swiftech apogee hd, MCP-35x, Bitspower no name res ( only one in stock around me ), and 2x swiftech 360 rads
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Uhh my 4960X can take 85 degrees or more on cores without any problems in Prime95 with H100i, of course when I'm gaming it's not running even remotely close to those temps. The TJMAX is 95 degs C anyway for my CPU. It's more of a personal preference if you need to run that cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 80c is the recommended temperature, not a personal preferance. It's a personal preference if you want to run it higher. The tj max was 105 for normal ivy, yet the recommended was also 80c. For max cpu life for 24/7 you want to stay under it.
> 
> On a side note, anyone running windows 8/8.1 unpark their cores? I read places that on 8 they are already unparked but one tool I used said they weren't. Any updated tools for w8 and hexacores?
Click to expand...

should not matter on intel, i may be wrong but it was a fix to give bulldozers more performance.


----------



## skupples

EK is taking FOR EVER to approve this RMA.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I think i'm gonna get my processor from microcenter when I pass by them and see what they have. I still wonder if there is any truth to the batches thing? 529.99 for a 4930k and $269.99 for a 4820k.


I've read of at least two others that have the same batch # as me and both report their 4930K's to be rather poor overclocker's.

I'm hoping it's just the CPU and not a bad RIVBE.... but at this point I'm thinking it's the CPU - Feels like it anyway


----------



## owikh84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> dram volt?


I pumped 2.25v for this but not can go lower or not.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84*
> 
> I pumped 2.25v for this but not can go lower or not.


nice job
could you re-post the picture with higher res?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> nice job
> could you re-post the picture with higher res?


If you right click & select open in new window it should open up in the native resolution.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 80c is the recommended temperature, not a personal preferance. It's a personal preference if you want to run it higher. The tj max was 105 for normal ivy, yet the recommended was also 80c. For max cpu life for 24/7 you want to stay under it.
> 
> On a side note, anyone running windows 8/8.1 unpark their cores? I read places that on 8 they are already unparked but one tool I used said they weren't. Any updated tools for w8 and hexacores?


You looking for someting like this ?

http://www.coderbag.com/Programming-C/Disable-CPU-Core-Parking-Utility

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rental Home*
> 
> After playing some assassin's creed 4 I decided to order the intel extreme tuning plan and a twin pack of sp120s so I can do push pull. Once the fans arrive it will be overclock time


Don´t forget the thermal compound !


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

;(


----------



## SeriousBlack

Well I've just finished my new build with this board. Didn't have much time last night for overclocking, but got a nice 4.6ghz at 1.4v; ram at 2400mhz (their rated speed). I'm looking forward this week to seeing what I can get from it.

As this board has been out of stock for a long time, I originally bought an EVGA Dark. What a mistake that was, it took almost a minute to boot up and then I was lucky if it would last an hour before I got a BSOD. Worst board I have ever bought.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> If you right click & select open in new window it should open up in the native resolution.


it works. thanks for the tip


----------



## Slinky PC

2014 Slinky Supercomputer, coming soon










RAM 32GB (8X4GB) G.SKILL 3000MGz water-cooled with 8 X Koolance Ram-33
CPU i7-4960X Ivy Bridge-E water-cooled with Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos XT Series - .925 Silver Edition


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> I'm convinced I have a crappy overclocking 4930K (Batch: 3331B498).
> 
> I'm simply fighting way too hard for what should be simple overclocks with this thing....
> So I'm going to order another 4930K from a local PC shop and hopefully get a completely different batch number.
> 
> I'd like to see 4.4 - 4.6GHz 24/7 stable at or under 1.35v with decent ram speed.
> 
> I'm confident this 4930K from Newegg won't even touch 4.4GHz @ 1.4v
> 
> I have a spare RIVE (my first one) sitting in a box, so maybe I'll drop this particular CPU in it and build a nice little system for someone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Someone that doesn't overclock.....)


You may have just got unlucky. My Newegg 4930k does 4.6ghz at 1.34 and 4.7ghz at 1.37. I think it's slightly better than average, but certainly not as good as some lucky people out there.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 2014 Slinky Supercomputer, coming soon


nice pics, cant wait to see more from you.


----------



## RSharpe

Why is it that so many reviewers with Ivy Bridge-E processors claim 4.5Ghz @1.4+V to be the maximum overclocking speed of their 4960Xs? Are they all ES from the same batch? It seems most people on these forums have been able to get 4.6 or 4.7Ghz from retail 4930Ks in the 1.35-1.4V range.

http://www.legitreviews.com/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-intel-x79-motherboard-review_129692/17


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84*
> 
> Mem OC on *ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition* is awesome
> 
> Samsung kit @ 2800 9-12-12-25-1T QUAD channel


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> nice pics, cant wait to see more from you.


Does anyone how to set the third timing for 2666c10?
I've tested that these settings in picture (00003311310) are not p95 stable.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> I've read of at least two others that have the same batch # as me and both report their 4930K's to be rather poor overclocker's.
> 
> I'm hoping it's just the CPU and not a bad RIVBE.... but at this point I'm thinking it's the CPU - Feels like it anyway


I wonder If I go to microcenter if they will let me pick the processor I want ...lol


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Does anyone how to set the third timing for 2666c10?
> I've tested that these settings in picture (00003311310) are not p95 stable.


Well, I use the same timings as posted there, form one of the Samsung profiles in BIOS. P95 stable for me. I run high vCore though, that 1.2 V for 4.5 GHz is pretty nice, really.

You can also try XMP profile, that worked fine for me, but you need to enable XMP, which doesn't work perfectly with every chip...I have two CPUs that do 2666 fine, one just can't get stable.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Well, I use the same timings as posted there, form one of the Samsung profiles in BIOS. P95 stable for me. I run high vCore though, that 1.2 V for 4.5 GHz is pretty nice, really.
> 
> You can also try XMP profile, that worked fine for me, but you need to enable XMP, which doesn't work perfectly with every chip...I have two CPUs that do 2666 fine, one just can't get stable.


Those parameters work for you?! I'm curious about your 2666c10 settings. Could you post a memtweakit picture?
Also, how did you test that with p95? I use the 'customize' option and set it consume 16000 memory, I use corsair 4x4g 2666c10 quad kit, I believe your test was conducted with the same kit?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Those parameters work for you?! I'm curious about your 2666c10 settings. Could you post a memtweakit picture?
> Also, how did you test that with p95? I use the 'customize' option and set it consume 16000 memory, I use corsair 4x4g 2666c10 quad kit, I believe your test was conducted with the same kit?


Oh, for P95, I only ran "blend", so perhaps not all memory was used. I didn't even think about that.







Memtweakit is just the same as above.

And yeah, same kit. I'll try a high-memload P95 later.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 2014 Slinky Supercomputer, coming soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAM 32GB (8X4GB) G.SKILL 3000MGz water-cooled with 8 X Koolance Ram-33
> 
> 
> CPU i7-4960X Ivy Bridge-E water-cooled with Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos XT Series - .925 Silver Edition


How many units you building for 2014? Just asking because of the life time supply of G-skillz RAM.


----------



## AndresR

This arrived today to my country











Now the question, do you guys think a EK XTX 480 and EK XTX 240 could handle this board + high oc 3930k (4.8ghz) + 2 Lightning 780?? I think I'll be better using an external rad like a Mora 3 or something similar, my case is a Silverstone TJ07 and will place both radiator at the bottom.


----------



## Aftermath2006

what EK fc terminal for 2 titans in X16 on the BE


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> what EK fc terminal for 2 titans in X16 on the BE


3 slot.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19897/ex-blc-1450/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Dual_Parallel_3-Slot_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_DUAL_Parallel_3-Slot.html?tl=g57c645s2060

just held my old one up to make sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> This arrived today to my country
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the question, do you guys think a EK XTX 480 and EK XTX 240 could handle this board + high oc 3930k (4.8ghz) + 2 Lightning 780?? I think I'll be better using an external rad like a Mora 3 or something similar, my case is a Silverstone TJ07 and will place both radiator at the bottom.


Should work, may get close to 45-50C under full load once loop water hits max temp. If you can afford one of those external quad rad systems go for it, they are bad ass.

This assumption is based off of the temps I had with a 5.0 3570k & two titans cooled by a 360 coolstream & a 240 monsta. GPU's would hit ~45+ under full extended load.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> This arrived today to my country
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the question, do you guys think a EK XTX 480 and EK XTX 240 could handle this board + high oc 3930k (4.8ghz) + 2 Lightning 780?? I think I'll be better using an external rad like a Mora 3 or something similar, my case is a Silverstone TJ07 and will place both radiator at the bottom.


I'm currently using one EK XTX 360 and a XPSC RX 360 radiator for a 4930k @ 4.7Ghz and two overclocked GTX 580s without any temperature problems at all. I have my fans turned down to load since turning them up to full doesn't seem to change my temps at all. GTX 580s aren't very efficient at all in comparison to 780s. Especially overclocked.

I'm trying to hold out for Maxwell.


----------



## Aftermath2006

really i was thinking this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19436/ex-blc-1434/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Serial_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Serial.html?tl=g57c645s2060

and a blank for the unused slot in the middle


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> really i was thinking this
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19436/ex-blc-1434/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Serial_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Serial.html?tl=g57c645s2060
> 
> and a blank for the unused slot in the middle


I must be on that pipe today. You are correct. IDK what the hell I was looking @ when I held my 3 slot up to the beast.

tri-link w/ blank = win.

I see serial is the only thing in stock, are you sure you want to go that route? Most people recommend parallel for dual-sli. In reality though it's probably a margin of error difference.


----------



## AndresR

Ok, thanks for the help! I'll build everything with the rads I have, if temps go to high I will go the outside route.

@Aftermath2006, I got the triple Serial too


----------



## Dantrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owikh84*
> 
> Mem OC on *ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition* is awesome
> 
> Samsung kit @ 2800 9-12-12-25-1T QUAD channel


owikh84 where did you get that bracket for the red led fan from? Did it come with the bench or did you find it separate?


----------



## broken pixel

I can answer this question about the bracket for the fan.

http://www.dimastechusa.com/EN/c/dimastech-bench-test-table-easyxl-metallic-grey/


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 2014 Slinky Supercomputer, coming soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAM 32GB (8X4GB) G.SKILL 3000MGz water-cooled with 8 X Koolance Ram-33
> 
> 
> CPU i7-4960X Ivy Bridge-E water-cooled with Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos XT Series - .925 Silver Edition
> 
> 
> 
> How many units you building for 2014? Just asking because of the life time supply of G-skillz RAM.
Click to expand...

Less there 10 units, I do it just for fun.


----------



## Aftermath2006

difference in parallel and serial is really what just flow rate due to added restriction correct? So shouldn't be factor with 2 D5 pumps i wouldn't think


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> difference in parallel and serial is really what just flow rate due to added restriction correct? So shouldn't be factor with 2 D5 pumps i wouldn't think


Nothing factors with 2x D5 pumps. Parallel is water flowing into each card in succession, serial is water pumping to both cards & the same time.

GPU#2 in the flow MIGHT be 1-2c warmer with parallel, just gotta remember that water temp barely changes 1-2c throughout the whole loop.


----------



## Aftermath2006

does the blank work with the serial connector its not in the supported list


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> does the blank work with the serial connector its not in the supported list


I don't see why not, the external ports are all the same. Only the internals are different.


----------



## Aftermath2006

i wonder if it has something to do with it having to flow through each card before reaching the other one and with that blank in it couldn't follow its flow path maybe


----------



## Aftermath2006

got the triple parallel at PCS so went that route


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> got the triple parallel at PCS so went that route


safe choice, you know it will work this way.


----------



## Mega Man

well to all who think 8 hours of prime is enough I was working on the last bit of 72 and I got bsod, don't know which yet I am running to the store first

probably my memory, as I just did an extremely quick oc, but they also may of just been to hot, not a lot of airflow, also my dog ran through the wires on the back, May of caused it...


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Nothing factors with 2x D5 pumps. *Parallel is water flowing into each card in succession, serial is water pumping to both cards & the same time.*
> 
> GPU#2 in the flow MIGHT be 1-2c warmer with parallel, just gotta remember that water temp barely changes 1-2c throughout the whole loop.


I think you have that backwards.


----------



## Aftermath2006

Yeah figured i should play it safe after my aqua computer backplate incompatibility problem


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I think you have that backwards.




my whole world is lie.


----------



## mikep577

My RIVBE arrived







Instaling everything will take some time.. will keep you posted.


----------



## Arm3nian

I think the cause of my random shutdowns were nvidia beta drivers. I was watching a video and display driver stopped working..... Gaming for an hour at 99% load seems to have no effect.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I think the cause of my random shutdowns were nvidia beta drivers. I was watching a video and display driver stopped working..... Gaming for an hour at 99% load seems to have no effect.


No, it's ram timings /vCCSA, IMHO.

(besides me running dual 7970's)

Some time over the next few days I'll re-do the OS since I am pretty sure mine is a bit buggered now that I have crashed so much and did so much ram OC'ing, will try Win7 this time instead of Win8.


----------



## Mega Man

i was thinking about it, i think it happened due to heat buildup, one of my fans broke..... cause it hit my finger yesterday ( of course it had to be my fav brand fan.... ) the one i was primarily using to cool vrms. i think i am stable. ill test again next time i buy a set of these fans


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> No, it's ram timings /vCCSA, IMHO.
> 
> (besides me running dual 7970's)
> 
> Some time over the next few days I'll re-do the OS since I am pretty sure mine is a bit buggered now that I have crashed so much and did so much ram OC'ing, will try Win7 this time instead of Win8.


Ram is running fine, haven't had an issue from day 1 setting xmp and lowering command rate to 1. Did lots of prime blend also.

Have the whql drivers currently, no crashes after watching videos.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Ram is running fine, haven't had an issue from day 1 setting xmp and lowering command rate to 1. Did lots of prime blend also.
> 
> Have the whql drivers currently, no crashes after watching videos.


I can try building with the GTX780 again, too, see what happens. What driver were you using? I only tend to use WHQLs anyway.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I can try building with the GTX780 again, too, see what happens. What driver were you using? I only tend to use WHQLs anyway.


I was using 331.93 for W 8.1 64bit. Going to stick to WHQL from now on, I've always used beta, always seem to have some type of problem.


----------



## christefan

I'm using the 331.93 drivers--no problems. I'm with the other comment, work on VCCSA and ram speed and timings--good luck


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I think the cause of my random shutdowns were nvidia beta drivers. I was watching a video and display driver stopped working..... Gaming for an hour at 99% load seems to have no effect.


We have had allot of complaints in Titan Owners Club about this. Both .82 & 93 have caused it for people. One person reverted, one person upgraded, problems solved.







Haven't heard back from the other folks.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I must be on that pipe today. You are correct. IDK what the hell I was looking @ when I held my 3 slot up to the beast.
> 
> tri-link w/ blank = win.
> 
> I see serial is the only thing in stock, are you sure you want to go that route? Most people recommend parallel for dual-sli. In reality though it's probably a margin of error difference.


How are you guys getting your blocks to fit utilizing both 16x pcie slots. I have one of these

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=38981

but it doesn't seem to fit. Only way I can see it working is using 1 8x and 1 16x. Any suggestions?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> How are you guys getting your blocks to fit utilizing both 16x pcie slots. I have one of these
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=38981
> 
> but it doesn't seem to fit. Only way I can see it working is using 1 8x and 1 16x. Any suggestions?


you need the tri-sli bridge + a blank.

i'm running tri-sli.


----------



## skupples

@SDMODnoob

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16409/ex-blc-1163/EK_FC_Bridge_Triple_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acetal_EK-FC_Bridge_TRIPLE_Parallel_CSQ.html?tl=g57c645s2062

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16700/ex-blc-1189/EK_FC_Bridge_Blank_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_EK-FC_Link_BLANK_Parallel_CSQ.html?tl=g57c645s2062

make sure it's NOT labeled "z77"


----------



## SDMODNoob

Thanks skupples + rep


----------



## Ardi

I believe the right bridge for Titans is this one:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18974/ex-blc-1422/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645#blank


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Thanks skupples + rep


@SDMODnoob

Wait, you are using 780'S? Those are the wrong links. I chose the CSQ because of what your previously linked. SO SCRATCH THAT.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> I believe the right bridge for Titans is this one:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18974/ex-blc-1422/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645#blank


This man is correct. you want...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37221

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37708

derp is me for not looking @ your sig rig SD.

Must be time for bed.


----------



## Redshift 91

I'm switching back tow win 7 ultimate, the xonar xense isn't working in windows 8.1 pro, I've reinstalled 4 times, it'll work until I shut down. The Uni driver doesn't work either. I hope it's not because the card is incompatible with the board.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm switching back tow win 7 ultimate, the xonar xense isn't working in windows 8.1 pro, I've reinstalled 4 times, it'll work until I shut down. The Uni driver doesn't work either. I hope it's not because the card is incompatible with the board.


I hate windows 8 anything with a passion. So far its win 7 ultimate for me!


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I hate windows 8 anything with a passion. So far its win 7 ultimate for me!


I wanted to use it only for the performance increase over 7, however, I'm tired of fighting with it


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I wanted to use it only for the performance increase over 7, however, I'm tired of fighting with it


I'm not upgrading until I absolutely have to!


----------



## skupples

I'll be running win8 on a separate 256gb SSD for the two or three games that benefit from it, then when it gets to 5+ games i'll partition my 1tb SSD to house it, so on, so forth. Win 8 is much more stable than 8.1


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I'm not upgrading until I absolutely have to!


Well, at least my msdnaa is still active, so I didn't pay, but it's a hassle to get around


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> We have had allot of complaints in Titan Owners Club about this. Both .82 & 93 have caused it for people. One person reverted, one person upgraded, problems solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't heard back from the other folks.


So far no shutdowns with the WHQL drivers, they seem much more stable, even in games. I don't see how ram could be a problem on idle when it is fine on load. Fairly sure it was the drivers, will see if I shutdown in the future.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well to all who think 8 hours of prime is enough I was working on the last bit of 72 and I got bsod, don't know which yet I am running to the store first
> 
> probably my memory, as I just did an extremely quick oc, but they also may of just been to hot, not a lot of airflow, also my dog ran through the wires on the back, May of caused it...


I was testing the RAM with p95 yesterday. Got one error after 16.5 hour, the rest 11 threads survived 24 hr torture test.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> So far no shutdowns with the WHQL drivers, they seem much more stable, even in games. I don't see how ram could be a problem on idle when it is fine on load. Fairly sure it was the drivers, will see if I shutdown in the future.


I'm running 331.82 WHQL on my 780 Ti and can get my system to randomly reboot quite easily.
Thing is: with all default settings (CPU, RAM etc...) my system is stable as a rock ... So long as I set LLC to high and don't touch anything else.

That's the key for me.... DON'T TOUCH any other Digi+ power/voltage settings. If I do.... *BLAM* !! Random reboot city.
(And yes it oddly enough happens quite a bit while watching YouTube videos).

I'm not saying that their aren't video card driver issues, but to me the reboot problem is more to do with CPU, RAM, and/or motherboard instabilities. I'm certainly not convinced that BIOS 0403 is all that stable either, but yet we do see some people able to achieve significant and reportedly *stable* overclocks with their SB-E and IVY-E CPU's on the RIVBE using this very BIOS so....?

For me.... I have another 4930K on order and will probably test it over the weekend.
If it doesn't perform better than the one I'm running now, I'll become quite suspicious of the RIVBE. I've been though 4 different kit's of memory now and I'm pretty sure that's not the problem.
Most of us here are early adopters of the RIVBE, who's to say that some of the boards released aren't a little wonky?


----------



## Nunzi

Please add me.... http://valid.canardpc.com/eap9be


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> I'm running 331.82 WHQL on my 780 Ti and can get my system to randomly reboot quite easily.
> Thing is: with all default settings (CPU, RAM etc...) my system is stable as a rock ... So long as I set LLC to high and don't touch anything else.
> 
> That's the key for me.... DON'T TOUCH any other Digi+ power/voltage settings. If I do.... *BLAM* !! Random reboot city.
> (And yes it oddly enough happens quite a bit while watching YouTube videos).
> 
> I'm not saying that their aren't video card driver issues, but to me the reboot problem is more to do with CPU, RAM, and/or motherboard instabilities. I'm certainly not convinced that BIOS 0403 is all that stable either, but yet we do see some people able to achieve significant and reportedly *stable* overclocks with their SB-E and IVY-E CPU's on the RIVBE using this very BIOS so....?
> 
> For me.... I have another 4930K on order and will probably test it over the weekend.
> If it doesn't perform better than the one I'm running now, I'll become quite suspicious of the RIVBE. I've been though 4 different kit's of memory now and I'm pretty sure that's not the problem.
> Most of us here are early adopters of the RIVBE, who's to say that some of the boards released aren't a little wonky?


same here stable as a rock with default setting and random reboot if i try to OC


----------



## Mega Man

can i ask what you are setting your current capability to ?


----------



## Joeking78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Ram is running fine, haven't had an issue from day 1 setting xmp and lowering command rate to 1. Did lots of prime blend also.
> 
> Have the whql drivers currently, no crashes after watching videos.


You need to run a custom test with the amount of RAM you have, I think Blend only tests 2gb or something like that.

The random shut downs you have I have had to and I got them from tweaking RAM, even changing command rate to 1T can cause instability unless you pump more volts or tweak DIGI settings.

See my thread...passed 7hr Blend no problem, failed custom test in 5 seconds.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1451691/enough-stress#post_21406102


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joeking78*
> 
> You need to run a custom test with the amount of RAM you have, I think Blend only tests 2gb or something like that.
> 
> The random shut downs you have I have had to and I got them from tweaking RAM, even changing command rate to 1T can cause instability unless you pump more volts or tweak DIGI settings.
> 
> See my thread...passed 7hr Blend no problem, failed custom test in 5 seconds.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1451691/enough-stress#post_21406102


you're using r4e not r4be, aren't you?


----------



## Joeking78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> you're using r4e not r4be, aren't you?


That's correct...bios settings are near identical though...and ram issues are ram issues


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> can i ask what you are setting your current capability to ?


That's the problem - for me anyway - Adjusting anything in DIGI other than Load Line Calibration (CPU + VCCSA) = random reboots.
So CPU Current Capability to anything over AUTO = reboots


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> That's the problem - for me anyway - Adjusting anything in DIGI other than Load Line Calibration (CPU + VCCSA) = random reboots.
> So CPU Current Capability to anything over AUTO = reboots


reboot even set Current Capability to 180%??


----------



## Joeking78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> That's the problem - for me anyway - Adjusting anything in DIGI other than Load Line Calibration (CPU + VCCSA) = random reboots.
> So CPU Current Capability to anything over AUTO = reboots


Are you running latest BIOS?

I know its a new board but perhaps there has been an update that might solve the issue.

RIVF here and I can adjust everything in DIGI...I can't think of any hardware that could cause issues with just your DIGI settings so you may have a bad board/BIOS...have you contacted ASUS for support?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joeking78*
> 
> That's correct...bios settings are near identical though...and ram issues are ram issues


I think we are discussing R4BE here. R4BE is not just a simple revision of R4E, they are two completely different board. So, our discussion here may not apply to your scenario


----------



## Joeking78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I think we are discussing R4BE here. R4BE is not just a simple revision of R4E, they are two completely different board. So, our discussion here may not apply to your scenario


I knew that was coming









The guy I responded too was having similar issues I had when my RAM was unstable (even with p95 blend)...I was simply letting him know that there is a way to fix it knowing the BIOS settings are so similar.

Fixing unstable RAM is very simple, pretty much all boards have exactly the same basic settings in BIOS.

EDIT: http://www.legitreviews.com/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-intel-x79-motherboard-review_129692/4

BIOS settings are identical from what I can see.


----------



## mikep577

Hope anyone can help me ... I can only find Realtek drivers for my onboard sound card which needs to be a SupremeFX HD sound card? Is this correct or do i additionally need to download SupremeFX HD driver in order to get all the high end stuff to work.

Ps. I have sound coming from the onboard Realtek chip...


----------



## Joeking78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikep577*
> 
> Hope anyone can help me ... I can only find Realtek drivers for my onboard sound card which needs to be a SupremeFX HD sound card? Is this correct or do i additionally need to download SupremeFX HD driver in order to get all the high end stuff to work.
> 
> Ps. I have sound coming from the onboard Realtek chip...


According to the Asus download section there is only the Realtek driver available...also this...

_"Underneath the SupremeFX-branded cover is a Realtek ALC1150 audio chip. Installing the Realtek audio drivers will also provide access to the Sonic Radar software."_

http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-x79-motherboard-review/3/

Hope I don't get in trouble posting here...


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> reboot even set Current Capability to 180%??


Yup, even 180%

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joeking78*
> 
> Are you running latest BIOS?
> 
> I know its a new board but perhaps there has been an update that might solve the issue.
> 
> RIVF here and I can adjust everything in DIGI...I can't think of any hardware that could cause issues with just your DIGI settings so you may have a bad board/BIOS...have you contacted ASUS for support?


Latest BIOS is the shipping BIOS v0403 (which is what I'm using).
I've even re-flashed this BIOS just to be sure it wasn't a bad flash at the factory.

I will see what happens when the new 4930k is installed.
If the system still exhibits the same behavior, then I'll know it's probably a wonky RIVBE and I'll look into getting a replacement.

As I recall, Mr. TTL had the same DIGI problems while testing his sample RIVBE.
In his video review of the board he clearly states that setting anything in DIGI beyond the defaults would cause instability for him.
- He pretty much cautions people about about making adjustments in this section of the BIOS.


----------



## IT Diva

You guys with the random reboots issue, . . . .

How many are running Nvidia, . . . .

And how many are running AMD . . . . .

Seems to be plaguing the Nvidia guys so far from what I'm noticing . . .

Darlene


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Yup, even 180%
> Latest BIOS is the shipping BIOS v0403 (which is what I'm using).
> I've even re-flashed this BIOS just to be sure it wasn't a bad flash at the factory.
> 
> I will see what happens when the new 4930k is installed.
> If the system still exhibits the same behavior, then I'll know it's probably a wonky RIVBE and I'll look into getting a replacement.
> 
> As I recall, Mr. TTL had the same DIGI problems while testing his sample RIVBE.
> In his video review of the board he clearly states that setting anything in DIGI beyond the defaults would cause instability for him.
> - He pretty much cautions people about about making adjustments in this section of the BIOS.


i think a lot of people have the same problem, by the way, who is Mr. TTL?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Yup, even 180%
> Latest BIOS is the shipping BIOS v0403 (which is what I'm using).
> I've even re-flashed this BIOS just to be sure it wasn't a bad flash at the factory.
> 
> I will see what happens when the new 4930k is installed.
> If the system still exhibits the same behavior, then I'll know it's probably a wonky RIVBE and I'll look into getting a replacement.
> 
> As I recall, Mr. TTL had the same DIGI problems while testing his sample RIVBE.
> In his video review of the board he clearly states that setting anything in DIGI beyond the defaults would cause instability for him.
> - He pretty much cautions people about about making adjustments in this section of the BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> i think a lot of people have the same problem, by the way, who is Mr. TTL?
Click to expand...

i can adj digi np and mine are ati ( 7770 until the komodo for the 290xs are released ! )


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i can adj digi np and mine are ati ( 7770 until the komodo for the 290xs are released ! )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i can adj digi np and mine are ati ( 7770 until the komodo for the 290xs are released ! )


if I recall correctly, your system failed the p95 test after OC, right?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> i think a lot of people have the same problem, by the way, who is Mr. TTL?


TTL = Tiny Tom Logan

Here's a link to the part of his RIVBE review where he discusses how OCing with this BIOS is quite a bit different than with the RIVE or any other ASUS BIOS he was used to.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> i think a lot of people have the same problem, by the way, who is Mr. TTL?


(I should have said Mr. OC3D... prolly more people would have gotten it)









Here's the review of the RIVBE:


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> TTL = Tiny Tom Logan
> 
> Here's a link to the part of his RIVBE review where he discusses how OCing with this BIOS is quite a bit different than with the RIVE or any other ASUS BIOS he was used to.


you guys are from England? His accent is slightly difficult for me to follow.


----------



## mikep577

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joeking78*
> 
> According to the Asus download section there is only the Realtek driver available...also this...
> 
> _"Underneath the SupremeFX-branded cover is a Realtek ALC1150 audio chip. Installing the Realtek audio drivers will also provide access to the Sonic Radar software."_
> 
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-x79-motherboard-review/3/
> 
> Hope I don't get in trouble posting here...


thnx, very useful!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> you guys are from England? His accent is slightly difficult for me to follow.


I'm so not from the UK, but I've no problem with his accent at all. I've seen so many of his vids by now that I don't even notice / think about it. That vid has a few pointers for the BIOS settings on the RIVBE that are worth watching.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> you guys are from England? His accent is slightly difficult for me to follow.


Lol. nope... I'm Canadian (close enough to being British mind you)









I believe Tiny Tom is from either New Zealand or Australia.
He can sure drone on a bit... but his reviews are usually quite honest and fairly detailed.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Lol. nope... I'm Canadian (close enough to being British mind you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe Tiny Tom is from either New Zealand or Australia.
> He can sure drone on a bit... but his reviews are usually quite honest and fairly detailed.


hes in europe, he goes on and on complaining about how something costs x amount of quid all the time


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hes in europe, he goes on and on complaining about how something costs x amount of quid all the time


Yes I think you are right....
He's referenced the NHS before, and that's the UK health system so.....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i can adj digi np and mine are ati ( 7770 until the komodo for the 290xs are released ! )
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i can adj digi np and mine are ati ( 7770 until the komodo for the 290xs are released ! )
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> if I recall correctly, your system failed the p95 test after OC, right?
Click to expand...

yes, but I don't have random bsod. it was at about 72 hours straight of p95 custom at 12gb usage (which puts me at just below 90% usage )

however I believe the problem was either with my ram or my vrms got too hot as the fan next to them broke during the test (see my sig quote from me )

also to add, I never tested the ram oc , picked numbers I liked (Samsung miracle ram ) [email protected] 10 10 10 1.5v
still need to mem test that

***please note i never recommend ocing like this, I do it because I am crazy!


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Lol. nope... I'm Canadian (close enough to being British mind you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe Tiny Tom is from either New Zealand or Australia.
> He can sure drone on a bit... but his reviews are usually quite honest and fairly detailed.


That accent is definitely not Australian or New Zealand. I don't know where he's from exactly, but it's probably somewhere northern England.


----------



## AndresR

A teaser from EK facebbok account:



Look's like they removed the led logo


----------



## szeged

hope we can keep the I/O shield on it, if not, no blocks for me.


----------



## AndresR

I haven't removed the factory heatsink, but probably we can with some little modding, I was even thinking in only installing the VRM's block.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> A teaser from EK facebbok account:
> 
> 
> 
> Look's like they removed the led logo


There is no other chance to get out with the water from the waterblock.


----------



## IT Diva

At least they keep the same ports placement as the RIVE block, so my tube routing plan using only horizontal and vertical runs doesn't have problems from the get go. . . . . .

Now if they just plan to have it available in clean CSQ, or even regular CSQ, it'll be perfect.

When's it gonna be available . . .

Hellooooo Derick, can you help a gal out here . . .

Darlene


----------



## Arm3nian

Unstable ram has never caused random reboots for me, unstable ram causes bsod.

No one has still answered why the reboots never occur in games or benchmarks when the system is under load, only on the desktop or when watching videos. I had my display driver crash yesrerday from watching a video on the beta drivers...

Also, all of my digi settigs were default and I still got the random crashes.


----------



## skupples

I WANT IT.

Actually, I just want the VRM channel, hook it up to a mini 140 rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hope we can keep the I/O shield on it, if not, no blocks for me.


I'm still going to say that wiggling out the heat pipe will be possible. Doing so would allow us to retain the i/o shield.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Hi guys, any of you notice there is a parameter missing in DRAM setting?


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

http://valid.canardpc.com/p0bt00

using the auto settings I have 4300mhz on a 4820, im gunna change to 4500, check the settings and tweak from there.

ive only ran prime for 15 minutes but the temp is 38*c

how far can I expect to push this guy? any other 4820k owners with their settings?


----------



## SevenBit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Unstable ram has never caused random reboots for me, unstable ram causes bsod.
> 
> No one has still answered why the reboots never occur in games or benchmarks when the system is under load, only on the desktop or when watching videos. I had my display driver crash yesrerday from watching a video on the beta drivers...
> 
> Also, all of my digi settigs were default and I still got the random crashes.


If it makes you feel any better, my GPU was fine until I updated to the Beta drivers. Now my drivers crash watching Netflix and YouTube. It will start to loop my sound really fast then freeze up completely. This doesn't happen when I play BF4 (on a GT 440......), but freezes during video playback. It's pretty odd to me as well. Granted the card I'm talking about is a few years old (GT 440) but I've never had problems like that until I updated to the Beta drivers. I haven't had a chance to test them with the R4BE yet though, I should do that by the end of the week.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Unstable ram has never caused random reboots for me, unstable ram causes bsod.
> 
> No one has still answered why the reboots never occur in games or benchmarks when the system is under load, only on the desktop or when watching videos. I had my display driver crash yesrerday from watching a video on the beta drivers...
> 
> Also, all of my digi settigs were default and I still got the random crashes.


and I had a bsod while priming, not a random reboot


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and I had a bsod while priming, not a random reboot


Yeah BSOD = unstable, random reboots not exactly. This is day 2 with the WHQL, haven't rebooted yet.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Hi guys, any of you notice there is a parameter missing in DRAM setting?


Thats not missing it´s not shown, because of the long words on the left side.


----------



## skupples

Trying to take off trident X red fin - damn near impossible! They must have a dab of locktite on them or something. I of course get 3/4 sticks taken apart, buut nooo the last screw on the last stick is glued in with liquid steel! I'm going to have to tap it out.

wow, derp post is derp... The screws seem to be aesthetic? They slide right off with one screw removed.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I WANT IT.
> 
> Actually, I just want the VRM channel, hook it up to a mini 140 rad.
> I'm still going to say that wiggling out the heat pipe will be possible. Doing so would allow us to retain the i/o shield.


By wiggling you mean cut out the heat pipe?
well thats what the EK support said on their Facebook page

I really wanna keep the I/O shield, I think it makes the board look sexier


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I want to see what XSPCs blocks for this board look like. Any word on when they might show up?


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Trying to take off trident X red fin - damn near impossible! They must have a dab of locktite on them or something. I of course get 3/4 sticks taken apart, buut nooo the last screw on the last stick is glued in with liquid steel! I'm going to have to tap it out.
> 
> wow, derp post is derp... The screws seem to be aesthetic? They slide right off with one screw removed.


Huh... one of my Trident X red fins is actually loose... checked the screws and they are tight. Go fig?

I'm going to have a better look at it when I replace the CPU. Really wouldn't mind painting them black or silver... or something...


----------



## mfranco702

Add me please!!!


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> At least they keep the same ports placement as the RIVE block, so my tube routing plan using only horizontal and vertical runs doesn't have problems from the get go. . . . . .
> 
> Now if they just plan to have it available in clean CSQ, or even regular CSQ, it'll be perfect.
> 
> When's it gonna be available . . .
> 
> Hellooooo Derick, can you help a gal out here . . .
> 
> Darlene


Per the facebook page "EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE prototype water block for ASUS REPUBLIC OF GAMERS Rampage IV Black Edition. Final product will be available in no less than six (6) versions including Original CSQ."


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

MAX stable OC is 4.5mhz at 4.75v









Will post my PC on craigslist for bread crumbs. I don't want it anymore.

FrozenCPU sent me my replacement copper base plates for my TITAN water blocks and as I prep my tops, the Acrylic cracked. EK will supply me with a new one, but gotta keep waiting









I'm done.


----------



## AndresR

I just removed the VRM's heatsink, saddly the heatpipe is glue to the io shield heatsink, I'll try to see if there is any way to remove it without having to cut it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> I just removed the VRM's heatsink, saddly the heatpipe is glue to the io shield heatsink, I'll try to see if there is any way to remove it without having to cut it.


That's what I figured. A few drops of glue to hold them in place. You could easily drip some solvent in there & slide it right out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> By wiggling you mean cut out the heat pipe?
> well thats what the EK support said on their Facebook page
> 
> I really wanna keep the I/O shield, I think it makes the board look sexier


By wiggle it out I literally mean put some force on the pipe & pull it out from the I/O.

@mfranco702

*Welcome!*


----------



## AndresR

Drip some solvent and no go, deformed the heatpipe lol (by trying to pull it)

I'll drip some drops every hour, it's working but veeeeeeeeeeeeeery slow


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Drip some solvent and no go, deformed the heatpipe lol (by trying to pull it)
> 
> I'll drip some drops every hour, it's working but veeeeeeeeeeeeeery slow


As long as they didn't add on some sort of T-prong to the heat pipe to hook into the plastic ON TOP of the glue it should be relatively easy to do with patience. I look forward to your results.

Slightly off topic, but iv'e been under the impression that heat pipes are hallow with water & copper film on the inside... Is this close to correct?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Slightly off topic, but iv'e been under the impression that heat pipes are hallow with water & copper film on the inside... Is this close to correct?


Yes.

Usually under vacuum, so the "water" ..uh..."sublimates" at lower temps.


----------



## IT Diva

I have not tried removing the heatpipe yet, figured I'd wait until I had the mobo block in hand first, but from looking at the one I took off my RIVE, the pipe appears to be staked at the inside end which would preclude withdrawal. . . . at least without being able to rotate the tube to start with.

The tubing is very thin, and would not take much force to destroy it.

The one possible way to remove it in tact from the I/O block would be to use a torch and apply considerable heat to the aluminum block very quickly, in hopes of expanding the ID faster than the tube expands, and maybe being able to rotate it to where it can be pulled out.

I imagine that that is probably how they are assembled in the first place, hot aluminum - large bore ID and very cold tube with a minimal OD, slip fit until the temps equalize.

Darlene


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

hello and good evening. Life has slowed ever so slightly long enough to up some snaps.
This is the tiny pile accumulated so far. Still desperately mulling over a custom/premade
WC setup since regrettably pulling the trigger on the H80i. Got giddy in a schoolgirl style when I saw the
refurbs on Corsair site for like $50. Hit the 'ol add-to-cart and she showed up at the door. Then I researched and depression set in.
I have been reading alot about the different setups everyone is deploying/fabricating/utilizing and I can't wait to dive in once I decide
(if ever....







)
Graphics is a whole different matter altogether but I really need to +#!+ or get off the pot at this point to start building.

As always I look forward to and encourage anyone offering criticism, advice, or general knowledge!

Thanks so much.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> *, the pipe appears to be staked at the inside end which would preclude withdrawal*.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> . . . at least without being able to rotate the tube to start with.
> 
> The tubing is very thin, and would not take much force to destroy it.
> 
> The one possible way to remove it in tact from the I/O block would be to use a torch and apply considerable heat to the aluminum block very quickly, in hopes of expanding the ID faster than the tube expands, and maybe being able to rotate it to where it can be pulled out.
> 
> I imagine that that is probably how they are assembled in the first place, hot aluminum - large bore ID and very cold tube with a minimal OD, slip fit until the temps equalize.
> 
> 
> Darlene


this is my main concern with attempting to remove them.


----------



## LCRava

Received email from EK yesterday. They said they are currently testing the water block kit for this board and it will be @ least 2 more weeks before they're out


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Received email from EK yesterday. They said they are currently testing the water block kit for this board and it will be @ least 2 more weeks before they're out


I'm in no rush to get the board now seeing that I will lose the IO cover
Touched the south bridge and its pretty hot this morning, might wanna just use the south block
but I dont have any idea how I'm gonna run my tubes neatly


----------



## LCRava

I will most definitely wait for one of the braver members to figure out a way to mod the heat sink pipe to keep the i/o shield. I don't mind loosing the rog led logo but the i/o shield is a different story







.


----------



## coolzizo

Guys can i make pre-order this motherboard from amazon.com or us.ncix.com


----------



## AndresR

After a few hours a lot of drips of solvent the pipe still there!








That glue is very strong, I'll buy another litter of solvent and leave all that piece inside the bottle all night tomorrow or Thursday.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolzizo*
> 
> Guys can i make pre-order this motherboard from amazon.com or us.ncix.com


Amazon, ncix, newegg should all have it now. Newegg will require a stateside address though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Trying to take off trident X red fin - damn near impossible! They must have a dab of locktite on them or something. I of course get 3/4 sticks taken apart, buut nooo the last screw on the last stick is glued in with liquid steel! I'm going to have to tap it out.
> 
> wow, derp post is derp... The screws seem to be aesthetic? They slide right off with one screw removed.


yep
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> After a few hours a lot of drips of solvent the pipe still there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That glue is very strong, I'll buy another litter of solvent and leave all that piece inside the bottle all night tomorrow or Thursday.


the top piece is a sticker i think ( the embossed part) so be careful !


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Amazon, *ncix*, newegg should all have it now. Newegg will require a stateside address though.


They never had it to begin with


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> They never had it to begin with


WOAH, it's been so quiet around here w/o NCIX_Bob QQ'ing about us being mean.


----------



## centvalny

Retail bios 0403 test with cpu @ 1.19V h20


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Retail bios 0403 test with cpu @ 1.19V h20


nice low voltage OC, see if she will pass intel burn test, custom @ 95% of memory utilization.


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> nice low voltage OC, see if she will pass intel burn test, custom @ 95% of memory utilization.


Thanks:thumb:

This chip will go straight to ln2 3D benching


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> nice low voltage OC, see if she will pass intel burn test, custom @ 95% of memory utilization.


Never he will past this test for more then 12 hours.


----------



## Arm3nian

Can't get into windows at 5GHz, tried up to 1.57v, no luck. I don't even think it's the vcore at that point, could be ram. Might be possible with some setting tweakes.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I want to see what XSPCs blocks for this board look like. Any word on when they might show up?


I got a reply Wednesday before last that they would be showing them off last week or this week, so I say sit tight and I'll message them again on wednesday.

Also, my final oc, with many thanks to Broken Pixel:



The top part of the RoG cpuz is always missing because I put my start bar at the top of the screen, I can't believe this hasn't been fixed yet. Also, Windows 7 is much better than 8, because my sound card now works.

Edit:
VRM for sure needs water cooling, I doubt the air sinks will keep up with the heat over a long stress test. They're burning my fingers. The thermister I popped under the vrm heatsink is telling me it's 54c under there and the case temp is 24c. I'll cut the stupid heat pipe withy bolt cutters, I can't run this OC if the vrm gets this hot


----------



## Joeking78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Retail bios 0403 test with cpu @ 1.19V h20


Golden chip







More golden than mine.


----------



## Joeking78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Can't get into windows at 5GHz, tried up to 1.57v, no luck. I don't even think it's the vcore at that point, could be ram. Might be possible with some setting tweakes.


There are lots of Digi tweaks required to get to 5ghz...have you read any of the ROG guides?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolzizo*
> 
> Guys can i make pre-order this motherboard from amazon.com or us.ncix.com
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon, ncix, newegg should all have it now. Newegg will require a stateside address though.
Click to expand...

FWIW, Another member was able to order from Newegg to Saudi by using an Aramex account I believe.

Here it was ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvxvxv*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> how did you get them to ship to Saudi Arabia?
> 
> 
> 
> I have a mailbox in New York belted Fund in Saudi Arabia .. With Aramex
> 
> Aramex is sending to Saudi Arabia when it arrives in New York for my Automatically
> 
> nice move
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aramex like DHL like UPS
Click to expand...


----------



## szeged

taking mobo blocks out of my build after seeing we have to chop up the stock heatsink for the i/o shield







im sure asus would 100% refuse an rma if the board ever needed it lol.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> taking mobo blocks out of my build after seeing we have to chop up the stock heatsink for the i/o shield
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im sure asus would 100% refuse an rma if the board ever needed it lol.


And I'm just the opposite . ..

I see it as a small price to pay to have the mobo block that compliments the other 7 blocks to maintain the overall aesthetic.

I will hit the I/O sink with a torch though, and see if it will come off without damage . . .

If it will come off, it can go back on.

Darlene


----------



## szeged

i was thinking of taking a cutoff wheel and chopping it off, then soldering it back together and replating that area or something along those lines, but atm i got so much other stuff to do with this build that that is gonna have to sit on the backburner for a while lol.


----------



## bastian

Anyone with random reboots, despite being stable in Prime or other testing apps on the Black, with no BSOD or error message or if your system automatically startups/shuts down, please post here about it:

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?41458-Rampage-Black-IV-Random-Reboots&s=5df7af97398dd263499aa47350a32e58&country=&status=

Post your full system specs and BIOS settings and any troubleshooting you have done or testing.


----------



## jamiee

Just received my new 4930k .... *Batch # 332B663*


----------



## Joeking78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Just received my new 4930k .... *Batch # 332B663*


Should be a very good chip...http://forum.hwbot.org/showpost.php?p=266121&postcount=16


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nunzi*
> 
> Just got my board & 4930k so far im able to do 4.6g @1.3 v under load
> 
> no reboots seems solid 9 hours of prime some crysis3 ...BF4
> 
> thoughts!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FX45Guy*
> 
> Here's my IvyB-E results:
> 
> Stock out of the box and no changes I can hit 4.5GHz (BCLK-100 w/45 Multiplier). Vcore is around 1.325V.
> 
> I can hit 4.6GHz with Vcore at 1.4V. 4.7GHz crashes immediately. Temps in the low 70s.
> 
> Memory is Corsair Dominator (4x4G) @ 2400 C10.
> 
> Any thoughts on hitting 4.7 and above?
> Everything is stock except changing to XMP and Vcore.
> 
> Thanks


Nice guys whats the Batch #'s?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> This reminds me of Akazukin Cha Cha. "Cha Cha we have A, or B, or C. Which gift would you like to get?" Cha Cha said: All of them.
> How does it work with Aluminium cases?


I still need to finish that anime, rofl I miss it and it was so hilarious at times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> The H110 or the Swiftech H220 are better the the H100.
> These two I had bought before the h100 at your agency, which are up to date with the best compact water cooling systems.
> Now we have to tune your H100 to the max and this includes better thermal compound too.
> 
> You don´t damage your CPU when go over 80°C no, but over this point it can be really unstabil.
> And for 24/7 use i recommend max 75°C.
> 
> And i think we are talking about 24/7 stability.
> 
> Read this then you understand a little bit more:
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> You looking for someting like this ?
> 
> http://www.coderbag.com/Programming-C/Disable-CPU-Core-Parking-Utility
> Don´t forget the thermal compound !


Nice thanks for these I'll add them to the OP +1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Just received my new 4930k .... *Batch # 332B663*


Lemme know what you get on that thing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> A teaser from EK facebbok account:
> 
> 
> 
> Look's like they removed the led logo


Gonna start putting up all blocks on the OP side for this board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rental Home*
> 
> Hi I'm new to overlock.net but I got my system up and running with the RIVBE and I was wondering if I could join the club.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousBlack*
> 
> Well I've just finished my new build with this board. Didn't have much time last night for overclocking, but got a nice 4.6ghz at 1.4v; ram at 2400mhz (their rated speed). I'm looking forward this week to seeing what I can get from it.
> 
> As this board has been out of stock for a long time, I originally bought an EVGA Dark. What a mistake that was, it took almost a minute to boot up and then I was lucky if it would last an hour before I got a BSOD. Worst board I have ever bought.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 2014 Slinky Supercomputer, coming soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAM 32GB (8X4GB) G.SKILL 3000MGz water-cooled with 8 X Koolance Ram-33
> CPU i7-4960X Ivy Bridge-E water-cooled with Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos XT Series - .925 Silver Edition


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> This arrived today to my country
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the question, do you guys think a EK XTX 480 and EK XTX 240 could handle this board + high oc 3930k (4.8ghz) + 2 Lightning 780?? I think I'll be better using an external rad like a Mora 3 or something similar, my case is a Silverstone TJ07 and will place both radiator at the bottom.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikep577*
> 
> My RIVBE arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instaling everything will take some time.. will keep you posted.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702*
> 
> Add me please!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hello and good evening. Life has slowed ever so slightly long enough to up some snaps.
> This is the tiny pile accumulated so far. Still desperately mulling over a custom/premade
> WC setup since regrettably pulling the trigger on the H80i. Got giddy in a schoolgirl style when I saw the
> refurbs on Corsair site for like $50. Hit the 'ol add-to-cart and she showed up at the door. Then I researched and depression set in.
> I have been reading alot about the different setups everyone is deploying/fabricating/utilizing and I can't wait to dive in once I decide
> (if ever....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Graphics is a whole different matter altogether but I really need to +#!+ or get off the pot at this point to start building.
> 
> 
> As always I look forward to and encourage anyone offering criticism, advice, or general knowledge!
> [/spoiler]
> Thanks so much.


Grats guys! Belated Welcome to the Club, Appreciate it Skupples for waving them in, sorry about not responding in time been a hectic week in catching up on finals and getting everything in. Semester is FINALLY over though.

Hope to see more build logs posted for these! And added to the list! Happy OC'ing!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Nice guys whats the Batch #'s?


Batch is useless. I have three chips from the same batch with very varied clocking; 0.15 V difference just for 4.2 GHz(1.15V and 1.3V).


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> A teaser from EK facebbok account:
> 
> 
> 
> Look's like they removed the led logo


I do not removed the led logo and use the block from RIVE that fit perfect if you add the right thermal pad


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Nice guys whats the Batch #'s?
> I still need to finish that anime, rofl I miss it and it was so hilarious at times.
> 
> Nice thanks for these I'll add them to the OP +1
> Lemme know what you get on that thing.
> Gonna start putting up all blocks on the OP side for this board.
> 
> Grats guys! Belated Welcome to the Club, Appreciate it Skupples for waving them in, sorry about not responding in time been a hectic week in catching up on finals and getting everything in. Semester is FINALLY over though.
> 
> Hope to see more build logs posted for these! And added to the list! Happy OC'ing!


4930k Batch# 3330b449


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Batch is useless. I have three chips from the same batch with very varied clocking; 0.15 V difference just for 4.2 GHz(1.15V and 1.3V).


This is true.

I gotta say though, I'm liking this new CPU !!
..... Yeah, I couldn't wait to get testing it









Initial impressions..... It actually boots into Windows at 4.2GHz vcore=1.20v
This is a major feat in of itself!
Oh and did I mention I'm running DIGI power settings etc. (no crash or reboot so far).

And another MAJOR win..... With Speedstep disabled, both CPU-Z & Real Temp are showing the correct cpu clock speed.

I'm seriously thinking the other 4930k is batty and may just need to be returned or replaced.


----------



## Mega Man

so, what sub settings ( in digi and other volts ) help with stability?, i know that in amd the freq helps, but i have no idea about intel

all i have changed was VCCSA ( i hope i use the right acronyms ) vtt @1.1 each, vcore offset, digi cpu current cap @180% and all others to 130%, LLC high or ultra idr, all power phases/duty control to extreme, vrm over temp disabled

what else can i do


----------



## ZX2Slow

Currently running @stock speeds and CPU voltages, however my four 8GB sticks of memory are running 1.65V and 2400 10-12-12-31.

I am impressed with this board and the IMC.


----------



## jamiee

Well it's a start











.... And a clear indication that my RIVBE is just fine.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Well it's a start
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... And a clear indication that my RIVBE is just fine.


All three of my CPUs are fine until over 4300...don't be so sure yet.









(I actually think this is a CPU thing, not the board, anyway)


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> All three of my CPUs are fine until over 4300...don't be so sure yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I actually think this is a CPU thing, not the board, anyway)


Trust me, this is a HUGE step forward compared to my other 4930k which was a struggle to get stable @ stock speeds let alone trying any sort of overclock.

I've never had a bad CPU before, but I'm pretty sure something isn't right with that one.

Honestly, I'll be happy if I get 4.3 - 4.4GHz (24/7) stable out of this new 4930k without having to pump huge sums of voltage through it.


----------



## CerN

Hey guys, my board is arriving soon. Is it possible/easy to mod the LED logo, and replace the leds with blue ones?


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Trust me, this is a HUGE step forward compared to my other 4930k which was a struggle to get stable @ stock speeds let alone trying any sort of overclock.
> 
> I've never had a bad CPU before, but I'm pretty sure something isn't right with that one.
> 
> Honestly, I'll be happy if I get 4.3 - 4.4GHz (24/7) stable out of this new 4930k without having to pump huge sums of voltage through it.


1,4V Vcore and under 75°C for 24/7, then you will be fine !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CerN*
> 
> Hey guys, my board is arriving soon. Is it possible/easy to mod the LED logo, and replace the leds with blue ones?


Or you can wait for the new EK Waterblock for the RIVBE


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

AHHH !


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CerN*
> 
> Hey guys, my board is arriving soon. Is it possible/easy to mod the LED logo, and replace the leds with blue ones?


I think it might be a white LED with red plastic logo cover, so maybe you can replace cover only?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CerN*
> 
> Hey guys, my board is arriving soon. Is it possible/easy to mod the LED logo, and replace the leds with blue ones?
> 
> 
> 
> I think it might be a white LED with red plastic logo cover, so maybe you can replace cover only?
Click to expand...

this!


----------



## phuoctai92

Hi everyone, I got my motherboard 2 day ago. Today I start build my new computer, but I found my motherboard a problem. I don't know this is a big problem or small. One of the pin on socket longer then other. I worry that it can hurt my new CPU. I bought my motherboard at newegg. Anyone have any idea about my problem. What should I do? Thanks


----------



## LCRava

I have the exact same issue (random power down/restarts) as others described:

RIVBE
4960x
GSKILL F3-19200CL10Q2-64GBZHD (on QVL list)
64gb DDR3 2400 running @ JEDEC 1333
4x GTX Titan
2x AX1200i powersupply (switched for NEX 1500)
Windows 8.1 64bit.

I installed all hardware, left everything on AUTO/stock besides disabing on board audio and enabling RAID. Ran Memtest86+ on all 64GB of RAM @ 1333 at first and then with xmp (2400). Passed both with no errors. Went back to 1333, installed Windows 8.1 and started getting random shutdowns/reboots. Took all Video Cards out but 1 and took all ram sticks out but 2 in the ram slots specified in the manual. As I tried to change power button options in Windows and disable automatic reboots, still had random shutdowns. Windows showed nothing but an unexpected shutdown, no crash dump or anything else in the event log. I was having random shutdowns/reboots even in the BIOS and Memtest86+. Switched PSU for the NEX 1500 and still having the same issues. Sent board back to Newegg. I hope you guys can find a solution soon.

Only bios settings changed:

On board audio disabled.
Raid activated.

IMHO this is clearly a motherboard related issue as plenty of others @ OC.net are experiencing issues with different hardware and the ones that get it fixed are for different reasons altogether, not a specific issue.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phuoctai92*
> 
> Hi everyone, I got my motherboard 2 day ago. Today I start build my new computer, but I found my motherboard a problem. I don't know this is a big problem or small. One of the pin on socket longer then other. I worry that it can hurt my new CPU. I bought my motherboard at newegg. Anyone have any idea about my problem. What should I do? Thanks


Looks normal to me, the pins do bend at the end slightly, and what I see in your pictures is simply how the light reflects differently due to the angle. what's important is that it's not touching any other pins, and it doesn't look like it would.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> I have the exact same issue (random power down/restarts) as others described:
> 
> RIVBE
> 4960x
> GSKILL F3-19200CL10Q2-64GBZHD (on QVL list)
> 64gb DDR3 2400 running @ JEDEC 1333
> 4x GTX Titan
> 2x AX1200i powersupply (switched for NEX 1500)
> Windows 8.1 64bit.
> 
> I installed all hardware, left everything on AUTO/stock besides disabing on board audio and enabling RAID. Ran Memtest86+ on all 64GB of RAM @ 1333 at first and then with xmp (2400). Passed both with no errors. Went back to 1333, installed Windows 8.1 and started getting random shutdowns/reboots. Took all Video Cards out but 1 and took all ram sticks out but 2 in the ram slots specified in the manual. As I tried to change power button options in Windows and disable automatic reboots, still had random shutdowns. Windows showed nothing but an unexpected shutdown, no crash dump or anything else in the event log. I was having random shutdowns/reboots even in the BIOS and Memtest86+. Switched PSU for the NEX 1500 and still having the same issues. Sent board back to Newegg. I hope you guys can find a solution soon.
> 
> Only bios settings changed:
> 
> On board audio disabled.
> Raid activated.
> 
> IMHO this is clearly a motherboard related issue as plenty of others @ OC.net are experiencing issues with different hardware and the ones that get it fixed are for different reasons altogether, not a specific issue.


The BIOS is a bit raw, but this board is really designed for those that like to tweak manually, rather than going by auto. I had multiple boards, as well as having multiple chips, and the point where these problems begin, although similar with each chip, is slightly different. My best chip...rarely has a problem. My worst chip, reboots all the time, even at stock.

Part of the issue that I can tell so far, is down to memory timings, loadline settings, and VCCSA/VTT voltages. It's been mentioned that some users are having more problems at idle, but to me that makes sense, since ram gets loaded up by superfetch and then needs to be refreshed with greater accuracy at idle, and also multis bounce a bit more if that side of idling is enabled. The times that I do not have any problems at all, it seems that that is when I don't let the CPU idle, or when EIST/SPEEDSTEP or whatever you want to call it is enabled, or when I've pushed the memory frequency with too little VCCSA.

I use Windows Reliabiltiy monitor to view event history easily, and I haven't really had any crashes in 4 days, but what the reliability monitor lists as problems are all pretty much internet-related issues at specific sites, rather than other oddities.

The more and more I play with this problem, the more and more I am being convinced that my OS is getting screwed up due to these crashes now, more than anything else.

One thing to note is that if you have bought two sets of ram, that doesn't always work out right, but if you bought a single set, then installing the sticks by serial number, with the lowest-numbered sticks in the first slots, a1, b1, c1, d1, then a2, b2, c2, d2, seems to work out better for me at times. I play with many memory kits and boards, and there's nothing more than sometimes it works out that way, and I am not 100% sure why, other than the basic stuff that kits are tested by load on a channel,, almost, so it makes sense that having sticks grouped together in a kit in the right order is important.

Based on the three CPUs I got from Intel, there is a still a huge variance in silicon quality here, and if I add in other stuff I know about Intel and the quality of their silicon (which anyone else can look up as well, not saying I know something here anyone else doesn't), I wouldn't be too surprised to find that there might be a fair number of crappy CPUs out there, as from all the IVB-E and Haswell users I see out there, you either get a really great chip, or you get garbage.

At the same time, I think the BIOS needs more tuning for 8 GB sticks.

So, I guess I'm don't have much to offer you in help but some ideas.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phuoctai92*
> 
> Hi everyone, I got my motherboard 2 day ago. Today I start build my new computer, but I
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> found my motherboard a problem. I don't know this is a big problem or small. One of the pin on socket longer then other. I worry that it can hurt my new CPU. I bought my motherboard at newegg. Anyone have any idea about my problem. What should I do? Thanks


I do see a slight imperfection compared to the rest, but it's most likely non issue.


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Looks normal to me, the pins do bend at the end slightly, and what I see in your pictures is simply how the light reflects differently due to the angle. what's important is that it's not touching any other pins, and it doesn't look like it would.
> The BIOS is a bit raw, but this board is really designed for those that like to tweak manually, rather than going by auto. I had multiple boards, as well as having multiple chips, and the point where these problems begin, although similar with each chip, is slightly different. My best chip...rarely has a problem. My worst chip, reboots all the time, even at stock.
> 
> Part of the issue that I can tell so far, is down to memory timings, loadline settings, and VCCSA/VTT voltages. It's been mentioned that some users are having more problems at idle, but to me that makes sense, since ram gets loaded up by superfetch and then needs to be refreshed with greater accuracy at idle, and also multis bounce a bit more if that side of idling is enabled. The times that I do not have any problems at all, it seems that that is when I don't let the CPU idle, or when EIST/SPEEDSTEP or whatever you want to call it is enabled, or when I've pushed the memory frequency with too little VCCSA.
> 
> I use Windows Reliabiltiy monitor to view event history easily, and I haven't really had any crashes in 4 days, but what the reliability monitor lists as problems are all pretty much internet-related issues at specific sites, rather than other oddities.
> 
> The more and more I play with this problem, the more and more I am being convinced that my OS is getting screwed up due to these crashes now, more than anything else.
> 
> One thing to note is that if you have bought two sets of ram, that doesn't always work out right, but if you bought a single set, then installing the sticks by serial number, with the lowest-numbered sticks in the first slots, a1, b1, c1, d1, then a2, b2, c2, d2, seems to work out better for me at times. I play with many memory kits and boards, and there's nothing more than sometimes it works out that way, and I am not 100% sure why, other than the basic stuff that kits are tested by load on a channel,, almost, so it makes sense that having sticks grouped together in a kit in the right order is important.
> 
> Based on the three CPUs I got from Intel, there is a still a huge variance in silicon quality here, and if I add in other stuff I know about Intel and the quality of their silicon (which anyone else can look up as well, not saying I know something here anyone else doesn't), I wouldn't be too surprised to find that there might be a fair number of crappy CPUs out there, as from all the IVB-E and Haswell users I see out there, you either get a really great chip, or you get garbage.
> 
> At the same time, I think the BIOS needs more tuning for 8 GB sticks.
> 
> So, I guess I'm don't have much to offer you in help but some ideas.


I appreciate the help







. I got a new board and PSU, so hopefully I'll have better luck this time. Rep


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phuoctai92*
> 
> Hi everyone, I got my motherboard 2 day ago. Today I start build my new computer, but I found my motherboard a problem. I don't know this is a big problem or small. One of the pin on socket longer then other. I worry that it can hurt my new CPU. I bought my motherboard at newegg. Anyone have any idea about my problem. What should I do? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks normal to me, the pins do bend at the end slightly, and what I see in your pictures is simply how the light reflects differently due to the angle. what's important is that it's not touching any other pins, and it doesn't look like it would.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> I have the exact same issue (random power down/restarts) as others described:
> 
> RIVBE
> 4960x
> GSKILL F3-19200CL10Q2-64GBZHD (on QVL list)
> 64gb DDR3 2400 running @ JEDEC 1333
> 4x GTX Titan
> 2x AX1200i powersupply (switched for NEX 1500)
> Windows 8.1 64bit.
> 
> I installed all hardware, left everything on AUTO/stock besides disabing on board audio and enabling RAID. Ran Memtest86+ on all 64GB of RAM @ 1333 at first and then with xmp (2400). Passed both with no errors. Went back to 1333, installed Windows 8.1 and started getting random shutdowns/reboots. Took all Video Cards out but 1 and took all ram sticks out but 2 in the ram slots specified in the manual. As I tried to change power button options in Windows and disable automatic reboots, still had random shutdowns. Windows showed nothing but an unexpected shutdown, no crash dump or anything else in the event log. I was having random shutdowns/reboots even in the BIOS and Memtest86+. Switched PSU for the NEX 1500 and still having the same issues. Sent board back to Newegg. I hope you guys can find a solution soon.
> 
> Only bios settings changed:
> 
> On board audio disabled.
> Raid activated.
> 
> IMHO this is clearly a motherboard related issue as plenty of others @ OC.net are experiencing issues with different hardware and the ones that get it fixed are for different reasons altogether, not a specific issue.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The BIOS is a bit raw, but this board is really designed for those that like to tweak manually, rather than going by auto. I had multiple boards, as well as having multiple chips, and the point where these problems begin, although similar with each chip, is slightly different. My best chip...rarely has a problem. My worst chip, reboots all the time, even at stock.
> 
> Part of the issue that I can tell so far, is down to memory timings, loadline settings, and VCCSA/VTT voltages. It's been mentioned that some users are having more problems at idle, but to me that makes sense, since ram gets loaded up by superfetch and then needs to be refreshed with greater accuracy at idle, and also multis bounce a bit more if that side of idling is enabled. The times that I do not have any problems at all, it seems that that is when I don't let the CPU idle, or when EIST/SPEEDSTEP or whatever you want to call it is enabled, or when I've pushed the memory frequency with too little VCCSA.
> 
> I use Windows Reliabiltiy monitor to view event history easily, and I haven't really had any crashes in 4 days, but what the reliability monitor lists as problems are all pretty much internet-related issues at specific sites, rather than other oddities.
> 
> The more and more I play with this problem, the more and more I am being convinced that my OS is getting screwed up due to these crashes now, more than anything else.
> 
> One thing to note is that if you have bought two sets of ram, that doesn't always work out right, but if you bought a single set, then installing the sticks by serial number, with the lowest-numbered sticks in the first slots, a1, b1, c1, d1, then a2, b2, c2, d2, seems to work out better for me at times. I play with many memory kits and boards, and there's nothing more than sometimes it works out that way, and I am not 100% sure why, other than the basic stuff that kits are tested by load on a channel,, almost, so it makes sense that having sticks grouped together in a kit in the right order is important.
> 
> Based on the three CPUs I got from Intel, there is a still a huge variance in silicon quality here, and if I add in other stuff I know about Intel and the quality of their silicon (which anyone else can look up as well, not saying I know something here anyone else doesn't), I wouldn't be too surprised to find that there might be a fair number of crappy CPUs out there, as from all the IVB-E and Haswell users I see out there, you either get a really great chip, or you get garbage.
> 
> At the same time, I think the BIOS needs more tuning for 8 GB sticks.
> 
> So, I guess I'm don't have much to offer you in help but some ideas.
Click to expand...

this may also explain why i dont, i disable super and pre fetch at every install


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Woot! Just picked my mobo off the doorstep. That's about as fast as fedex smartpost gets. Ordered 12/12 , arrived 12/14.
> 
> Now if I can find a chip at a decent price, I'll be in business.


Seem's I missed someone , many apologies for that, grats btw and welcome! I shoulda gone back further, since I haven't been on much due to finals which are over now. Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Seem's I missed someone , many apologies for that, grats btw and welcome! I shoulda gone back further, since I haven't been on much due to finals which are over now. Thanks for the heads up!


Can you add me as well











It's in my Log as well
HERE


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Seem's I missed someone , many apologies for that, grats btw and welcome! I shoulda gone back further, since I haven't been on much due to finals which are over now. Thanks for the heads up!


Thanks! I'm really itching to get my 4930k. Can't wait to be able to do some base overclocking again. Glad I waited for RIVE-EB and Ivy-e! Hoping to receive my chip before Christmas vacation. Sounds like the digi+ parameters are similar to MVE.


----------



## Slinky PC

Slinky Supercomputer nearly dressed for Xmas


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I got a reply Wednesday before last that they would be showing them off last week or this week, so I say sit tight and I'll message them again on wednesday.
> 
> Also, my final oc, with many thanks to Broken Pixel:
> 
> 
> 
> The top part of the RoG cpuz is always missing because I put my start bar at the top of the screen, I can't believe this hasn't been fixed yet. Also, Windows 7 is much better than 8, because my sound card now works.
> 
> Edit:
> VRM for sure needs water cooling, I doubt the air sinks will keep up with the heat over a long stress test. They're burning my fingers. The thermister I popped under the vrm heatsink is telling me it's 54c under there and the case temp is 24c. I'll cut the stupid heat pipe withy bolt cutters, I can't run this OC if the vrm gets this hot


you can point active cooling onto the boards VRMs. I have my rig set up on a small table, cool as can be.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Slinky Supercomputer nearly dressed for Xmas


Dang it looks amazing!
may I know what fitting and size is that?
wondering since I'm really interested in getting the same block but after doing some research my fittings would clash into each other due to size


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this may also explain why i dont, i disable super and pre fetch at every install


its the BIOS


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Can you add me as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's in my Log as well
> 
> 
> HERE


welcome to da club keyboard masta.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Edit:
> VRM for sure needs water cooling, I doubt the air sinks will keep up with the heat over a long stress test. They're burning my fingers. The thermister I popped under the vrm heatsink is telling me it's 54c under there and the case temp is 24c. I'll cut the stupid heat pipe withy bolt cutters, I can't run this OC if the vrm gets this hot


Is there any temp monitoring that we can see how hot the VRM is? If not, there is a couple temperature ports on the board that you are able to hook a sensor too (i think?)

Edit: Looking at the manual, there are 3 thermal Sensor Cable connectors. I don't think we got any cables with the board. I looked at amazon and newegg with search "Thermal Sensor Cable Connectors", and surprising didn't find anything. I would think these would be easy to find and cheap?

Any help is appreciated.

Update:
Found it on Asus site.
http://us.estore.asus.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2017
If anyone knows of something that would work on newegg or amazon, please let me know.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Slinky Supercomputer nearly dressed for Xmas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dang it looks amazing!
> may I know what fitting and size is that?
> wondering since I'm really interested in getting the same block but after doing some research my fittings would clash into each other due to size
Click to expand...

I use PrimoChill ghost fittings for 1/2in Rigid Acrylic Tubing and yes they clash into each other. The way to go is by adding an extender fitting 15mm or to the CPU Block by adding Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I use PrimoChill ghost fittings for 1/2in Rigid Acrylic Tubing and yes they clash into each other. The way to go is by adding an extender fitting 15mm or to the CPU Block by adding Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor


Yeah that makes sense, but dont think my ocd would stand the difference in height between the two fittings
Guess I'll stick with my EK
I'll be watching your build closely mate









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> welcome to da club keyboard masta.


my keyboards are nothing compare to the members over GH









anyway happy to join the club! gonna spam tiborr to release the block faster now


----------



## skupples

People on GH spend 1000$ on caps.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Is there any temp monitoring that we can see how hot the VRM is? If not, there is a couple temperature ports on the board that you are able to hook a sensor too (i think?)
> 
> Edit: Looking at the manual, there are 3 thermal Sensor Cable connectors. I don't think we got any cables with the board. I looked at amazon and newegg with search "Thermal Sensor Cable Connectors", and surprising didn't find anything. I would think these would be easy to find and cheap?
> 
> Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Update:
> Found it on Asus site.
> http://us.estore.asus.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2017
> If anyone knows of something that would work on newegg or amazon, please let me know.


the mosfets and vrms run way cooler this board. Stop your temp worry. They are fine without active cooling.

DL the latest version AIDA64 for thermals man.

no sleep


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Is there any temp monitoring that we can see how hot the VRM is? If not, there is a couple temperature ports on the board that you are able to hook a sensor too (i think?)
> 
> Edit: Looking at the manual, there are 3 thermal Sensor Cable connectors. I don't think we got any cables with the board. I looked at amazon and newegg with search "Thermal Sensor Cable Connectors", and surprising didn't find anything. I would think these would be easy to find and cheap?
> 
> Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Update:
> Found it on Asus site.
> http://us.estore.asus.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2017
> If anyone knows of something that would work on newegg or amazon, please let me know.


I got a handful of asus' thermisters from some sabertooth z87 machines at work, the 54c temp came from one of those, I'd post a screen shot, but my pc is 2000 miles away for the next few weeks. I took it around the memory and put it in the gap between the chokes and the heat sink.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> you can point active cooling onto the boards VRMs. I have my rig set up on a small table, cool as can be.


I just think it's an issue with the design of the ft02 and the board. The memory blocks all the direct air flow to the vrm heat sinks. For my case, waterblocks are necessary. What's another hundred bucks on a 5k or 6k machine anyways?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Is there any temp monitoring that we can see how hot the VRM is? If not, there is a couple temperature ports on the board that you are able to hook a sensor too (i think?)
> 
> Edit: Looking at the manual, there are 3 thermal Sensor Cable connectors. I don't think we got any cables with the board. I looked at amazon and newegg with search "Thermal Sensor Cable Connectors", and surprising didn't find anything. I would think these would be easy to find and cheap?
> 
> Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Update:
> Found it on Asus site.
> http://us.estore.asus.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2017
> If anyone knows of something that would work on newegg or amazon, please let me know.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10767/cab-195/FrozenCPU_Temperature_Probe_Cable_-_2-Pin_-_25.html?tl=g12c133s492&id=ztcz2KiJ&mv_pc=4148










That would be a bit cheaper, if you just want one. Though the pack of three from ASUS is a better deal if you want that many.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Can you add me as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's in my Log as well
> HERE


w000 grats! and added, welcome to the club!









Thanks for the build log as well adding it up!


----------



## Jacoblab

I just finished putting my new build together and when I go to power it on the motherboard doesn't light up, beep or anything. I've tried two different 24 pin cables, the PSU works because I used it to leak test my loop and it worked fine.
I'm not sure why it isn't working, does anybody have any ideas?

I don't want to have to tear out my whole watercooling setup and get a new mobo -_-

EDIT: Fixed!


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10767/cab-195/FrozenCPU_Temperature_Probe_Cable_-_2-Pin_-_25.html?tl=g12c133s492&id=ztcz2KiJ&mv_pc=4148
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would be a bit cheaper, if you just want one. Though the pack of three from ASUS is a better deal if you want that many.


Thanks. Might just get the pack of 3 from ASUS as thats the number of connections our board has. Will be the last ones I need for sometime.

This is a dumb question, but how to do "stick" your sensor on what you intend to measure? They make special tape, or technique?


----------



## LCRava

Can you guys add me to the club as well. Build log and pics are in my signature


----------



## mikep577

finished building my rig, it runs very cool and i'm












It's not over clocked yet... just some benchmark to compare it against.

Only run into two problems.
It looks like the power and reset button are not working correctly, once powered off all the fans keep running... it looks like its not closing down completely. Same goed for the reset button... it shutdown windows 8.1 but does not boot again...

anyone an idea were I have to look to solve this?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Thanks. Might just get the pack of 3 from ASUS as thats the number of connections our board has. Will be the last ones I need for sometime.
> 
> This is a dumb question, but how to do "stick" your sensor on what you intend to measure? They make special tape, or technique?


Frozen sells little squares of "Aluminum Foil Temp Sensor Tape" for $1. Can't say I've used it though. The only temp probes I've used were plugs or pass-through temp sensors in a water loop.


----------



## xarot

It seems I am collecting these Rampage boards. Hopefully I don't have some of the issues I've seen here with the new R4BE as the R3BE is the best motherboard I've ever had.

I have ordered Corsair Dominator GT 32 GB kit for this mobo, should still arrive before Christmas.

Just put the new mobo into the case. Why we always need to push the mobo a little bit into the I/O shield? It's just too easy to scratch your board with the case standoffs even if you are extra careful. It's probably that foam they started using in the I/O shield what's causing it.


----------



## AndresR

Screw the heatpipe, screw the warranty...


----------



## cruzdi

That's the spirit!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Here are my 4.5ghz settings. Any suggestions to get me a higher stable OC will be much appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## skupples

OK, The motherboard in all it's glory... black black black black black black black.!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> It seems I am collecting these Rampage boards. Hopefully I don't have some of the issues I've seen here with the new R4BE as the R3BE is the best motherboard I've ever had.
> 
> I have ordered Corsair Dominator GT 32 GB kit for this mobo, should still arrive before Christmas.
> 
> Just put the new mobo into the case. Why we always need to push the mobo a little bit into the I/O shield? It's just too easy to scratch your board with the case standoffs even if you are extra careful. It's probably that foam they started using in the I/O shield what's causing it.



















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Screw the heatpipe, screw the warranty...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Exactly what i plan on doing when i get my EK block. Nicely done


----------



## Jacoblab

I put my CPU at 4.5 ghz and the cpu voltage is at 1.424 (It was like this already I didn't change it). I can't figure out how to change the voltage, is 1.424 safe for a 4930k that is in a custom loop?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Is there any temp monitoring that we can see how hot the VRM is? If not, there is a couple temperature ports on the board that you are able to hook a sensor too (i think?)
> 
> Edit: Looking at the manual, there are 3 thermal Sensor Cable connectors. I don't think we got any cables with the board. I looked at amazon and newegg with search "Thermal Sensor Cable Connectors", and surprising didn't find anything. I would think these would be easy to find and cheap?
> 
> Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Update:
> Found it on Asus site.
> http://us.estore.asus.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2017
> If anyone knows of something that would work on newegg or amazon, please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10767/cab-195/FrozenCPU_Temperature_Probe_Cable_-_2-Pin_-_25.html?tl=g12c133s492&id=ztcz2KiJ&mv_pc=4148
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would be a bit cheaper, if you just want one. Though the pack of three from ASUS is a better deal if you want that many.
Click to expand...

most any 2pin thermal sensor ( also known as thermisters, which may help on ebay ) and i am pretty sure they are 10k ohm will work
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Can you add me as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's in my Log as well
> HERE
> 
> 
> 
> w000 grats! and added, welcome to the club!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the build log as well adding it up!
Click to expand...

+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Thanks. Might just get the pack of 3 from ASUS as thats the number of connections our board has. Will be the last ones I need for sometime.
> 
> This is a dumb question, but how to do "stick" your sensor on what you intend to measure? They make special tape, or technique?
> 
> 
> 
> Frozen sells little squares of "Aluminum Foil Temp Sensor Tape" for $1. Can't say I've used it though. The only temp probes I've used were plugs or pass-through temp sensors in a water loop.
Click to expand...

you can buy aluminum tape from home depot or any other hardware store, copper tape ( harder to find ), or wedge it in there ( IE between the block and thermal pad ect), i have even seen ppl mill out a hole or path in heatsink or IHS for them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Screw the heatpipe, screw the warranty...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


epic, after seeing that pic i bet to manufacture the HS they put the tube in the hs ( at this point it is smaller then the hole ) and ram a steel rod down it to expand it, that is how they make ac coils and car rads.

with that said was there any liquid in it ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> I put my CPU at 4.5 ghz and the cpu voltage is at 1.424 (It was like this already I didn't change it). I can't figure out how to change the voltage, is 1.424 safe for a 4930k that is in a custom loop?


i am told it is


----------



## AgeAyeTheLabSci

can someone give me a good guide to overclocking? I was messing around with settings, I used to bclk profile option of 160 on an 4820k and that worked so i tried 170 and it kept trying to boot, eventually i turned it off and let it sit for 5 minutes and turned it back on and it said OC failed same goes for the watercooling profile. i found that the automatic 4500mhz setting runs no problem using prime95 or the intel tuning utility and stays under 55*. It would be nice if someone could explain what my cpu is capable of without screwing up everything, or how to get a guesstimate


----------



## Jacoblab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am told it is


Do you know how to change the voltage? In my bios I see the cpu voltage and then there is a manual (what it is now), and an offset option. Do I need to use the offset option?
Sorry, it's my first time overclocking :S


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am told it is
> 
> 
> 
> Do you know how to change the voltage? In my bios I see the cpu voltage and then there is a manual (what it is now), and an offset option. Do I need to use the offset option?
> Sorry, it's my first time overclocking :S
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> I put my CPU at 4.5 ghz and the cpu voltage is at 1.424 (It was like this already I didn't change it). I can't figure out how to change the voltage, is 1.424 safe for a 4930k that is in a custom loop?


i am told it is

manual is pretty straight forward, set your voltage and go, offset is tricky as your vid changes, you need to find your max oc and then boot to windows, open something like hwinfo64 and look at your vid while stressing the cpu to know what your vid is, then take voltage you want ( IE 1.425 ) - vid (IE 1.30 ) =offset of +1.24


----------



## jamiee

Mov'n on up...

4.3GHz (1.20v)


----------



## AndresR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> with that said was there any liquid in it ?


No liquid at all, it was more dry than the Sahara


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikep577*
> 
> finished building my rig, it runs very cool and i'm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not over clocked yet... just some benchmark to compare it against.
> 
> Only run into two problems.
> It looks like the power and reset button are not working correctly, once powered off all the fans keep running... it looks like its not closing down completely. Same goed for the reset button... it shutdown windows 8.1 but does not boot again...
> 
> anyone an idea were I have to look to solve this?


Probably the PCIe SSD you got.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> I put my CPU at 4.5 ghz and the cpu voltage is at 1.424 (It was like this already I didn't change it). I can't figure out how to change the voltage, is 1.424 safe for a 4930k that is in a custom loop?


Yes, great job !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeAyeTheLabSci*
> 
> can someone give me a good guide to overclocking? I was messing around with settings, I used to bclk profile option of 160 on an 4820k and that worked so i tried 170 and it kept trying to boot, eventually i turned it off and let it sit for 5 minutes and turned it back on and it said OC failed same goes for the watercooling profile. i found that the automatic 4500mhz setting runs no problem using prime95 or the intel tuning utility and stays under 55*. It would be nice if someone could explain what my cpu is capable of without screwing up everything, or how to get a guesstimate


Here for you









http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?5835-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Extreme-UEFI-Guide-for-Overclocking


----------



## xarot

Okay, my R4B doesn't like my RAM kit at all, which by the way is fully working and compatible on RIVE. 4x8 GB Corsair Vengeance.

I can run Prime95 for 10 seconds and then the computer just shuts down & restarts if I use XMP. If everything is left at AUTO it didn't happen for 30 minutes last night. VTT/VCCSA doesn't do anything.

Have to test another RAM kit tonight but that definitely is not promising.


----------



## _REAPER_

PC is up and running no issues so far updating everything now will have some pics up tomorrow was not happy with the IPHONE pics I took a little while ago


----------



## mikep577

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Probably the PCIe SSD you got.


Great thnx, will start looking if my revo drive is causing this problem.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am told it is
> 
> manual is pretty straight forward, set your voltage and go, offset is tricky as your vid changes, you need to find your max oc and then boot to windows, open something like hwinfo64 and look at your vid while stressing the cpu to know what your vid is, then take voltage you want ( IE 1.425 ) - vid (IE 1.30 ) =offset of +1.24


I believe you mean +.124.
+1.24v offset would surely fry something.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Okay, my R4B doesn't like my RAM kit at all, which by the way is fully working and compatible on RIVE. 4x8 GB Corsair Vengeance.
> 
> I can run Prime95 for 10 seconds and then the computer just shuts down & restarts if I use XMP. If everything is left at AUTO it didn't happen for 30 minutes last night. VTT/VCCSA doesn't do anything.
> 
> Have to test another RAM kit tonight but that definitely is not promising.


Yes this was my experience as well with Vengeance Pro 4x8GB 2133MHz on the RIVBE.

I've tried 4 different kit's of RAM ( Dominator Platinum 4x4GB 2400MHz, G-Skill Ripjaws-Z 8x4GB 2133MHz, the Vengeance Pro's, and my current set of G-Skill Trident X 4x8GB 2400MHz).
The two Corsair memory kits were the most difficult to get stable on the black, the Vengeance pro's were never actually stable and would just cause reboots.
The G-Skill kit's however have performed flawlessly so far...

Of course I also had a wonky 4930k, so I don't know how much that contributed to the memory problems. But I can say, even with that CPU, the G-Skill's did at least get me into some form of a stable system while I troubleshooted the problem.


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> OK, The motherboard in all it's glory... black black black black black black black.!


Sweet!!


----------



## Nunzi

quick shot of my new build...


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> OK, The motherboard in all it's glory... black black black black black black black.!


Nicely done









I'm thinking you should paint the fan blades black (maybe gloss?)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am told it is
> 
> manual is pretty straight forward, set your voltage and go, offset is tricky as your vid changes, you need to find your max oc and then boot to windows, open something like hwinfo64 and look at your vid while stressing the cpu to know what your vid is, then take voltage you want ( IE 1.425 ) - vid (IE 1.30 ) =offset of +1.24
> 
> 
> 
> I believe you mean +.124.
> +1.24v offset would surely fry something.
Click to expand...

yesh...

right math, wrong placement of decimal... i was sleepy last night !
welcome everyone


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Yes this was my experience as well with Vengeance Pro 4x8GB 2133MHz on the RIVBE.
> 
> I've tried 4 different kit's of RAM ( Dominator Platinum 4x4GB 2400MHz, G-Skill Ripjaws-Z 8x4GB 2133MHz, the Vengeance Pro's, and my current set of G-Skill Trident X 4x8GB 2400MHz).
> The two Corsair memory kits were the most difficult to get stable on the black, the Vengeance pro's were never actually stable and would just cause reboots.
> The G-Skill kit's however have performed flawlessly so far...
> 
> Of course I also had a wonky 4930k, so I don't know how much that contributed to the memory problems. But I can say, even with that CPU, the G-Skill's did at least get me into some form of a stable system while I troubleshooted the problem.


Thanks, my RAM kit is actually on the QVL list but of course I could have different IC. To me it sounds there is definitely something strange about the BE board as there are many reported problems here and on ROG forums. Most of these users are using 8 GB sticks..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> Nicely done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking you should paint the fan blades black (maybe gloss?)


That's not a bad idea, but @ this point i'm basically done. I'm going to start leak testing today after work. I'll be doing a tear down in a few weeks, I might look into it then.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Thanks, my RAM kit is actually on the QVL list but of course I could have different IC. To me it sounds there is definitely something strange about the BE board as there are many reported problems here and on ROG forums. Most of these users are using 8 GB sticks..


I'm thinking it's due to an early BIOS.... still needs some work.

RIVE was the same way when it was new..... Hated corsair RAM, but eventually that problem was fixed.


----------



## bastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> I'm thinking it's due to an early BIOS.... still needs some work.
> 
> RIVE was the same way when it was new..... Hated corsair RAM, but eventually that problem was fixed.


Not according to Raja from ASUS. He seems to think the issue is related to the memory kits people are using. At first he was blaming the issue on people usng SB-E CPUs, but then the IB-E users started complaining and that got debunked.


----------



## szeged

of course he would blame anything but the product he sells and not even consider the board as a problem, funny how that works right?


----------



## bastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> of course he would blame anything but the product he sells and not even consider the board as a problem, funny how that works right?


Yeah, I believe personally it is a BIOS tuning issue.


----------



## bastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Okay, my R4B doesn't like my RAM kit at all, which by the way is fully working and compatible on RIVE. 4x8 GB Corsair Vengeance.
> 
> I can run Prime95 for 10 seconds and then the computer just shuts down & restarts if I use XMP. If everything is left at AUTO it didn't happen for 30 minutes last night. VTT/VCCSA doesn't do anything.
> 
> Have to test another RAM kit tonight but that definitely is not promising.


I am having the same issue with my system (see sig), although I am more stable at the moment than you are. I am trying to find a common element between the people having the problem and those that aren't and it seems more people with 8GB sticks are having problems.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> Yeah, I believe personally it is a BIOS tuning issue.


1000%. But I look at it this way....ASUS revised the memory layout of this board, tuned for maxing out memory....under extreme cooling.

It's all about temps, really, I feel. I noticed that when I have problems at stock, CPU is fed 1.3 V by auto settings, but I can run 1.125V for stock, and CPU VID is 1.175V. If I manually set voltages, the CPU runs cooler, and I rarely have a problem. I actually haven't had a reboot in many days, but I am running low ram speeds and only 4.2 GHz on CPU.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> Not according to Raja from ASUS. He seems to think the issue is related to the memory kits people are using. At first he was blaming the issue on people usng SB-E CPUs, but then the IB-E users started complaining and that got debunked.


that's how raja has always been and its a detriment to asus.
everything is the user's fault

the board is perfect the way it is and we'll never require an update 0403 is the best it's gonna get.

Reminds me of vanilla launch


----------



## centvalny

It boils down to ram tuning and cpu's imc scaling. Bios memory profiles are based on highly binned rams.

Peeps need to tweak their ram/cpu and use profiles to start, especially with 8GB stick.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> Not according to Raja from ASUS. He seems to think the issue is related to the memory kits people are using. At first he was blaming the issue on people usng SB-E CPUs, but then the IB-E users started complaining and that got debunked.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 1000%. But I look at it this way....ASUS revised the memory layout of this board, tuned for maxing out memory....under extreme cooling.
> 
> It's all about temps, really, I feel. I noticed that when I have problems at stock, CPU is fed 1.3 V by auto settings, but I can run 1.125V for stock, and CPU VID is 1.175V. If I manually set voltages, the CPU runs cooler, and I rarely have a problem. I actually haven't had a reboot in many days, but I am running low ram speeds and only 4.2 GHz on CPU.


how did you manage to read CPU VID is 1.175V? I think none of the popular tools e.g. cpuz. latest aida64, is able to give correct VID at this moment.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that's how raja has always been and its a detriment to asus.
> everything is the user's fault
> 
> the board is perfect the way it is and we'll never require an update 0403 is the best it's gonna get.
> 
> Reminds me of vanilla launch


LoL, nice speech


----------



## centvalny

I've been playing with this board since Sept. and still found new ram setting combos

This run with hiighly binned cpu (out of 11pcs 4930Ks) and specially binned Dominator Platinum 2666C10 kits

Cpu mhz wall @ 6050 with imc 2950ish tights, core will go higher with more relax ram settings



http://imgur.com/sDQRQrP


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> I've been playing with this board since Sept. and still found new ram setting combos
> 
> Cpu mhz wall @ 6050 with imc 2950ish tights, core will go higher with more relax ram settings.
> 
> Highly binned cpu and special Dominator Platinum 2666C10
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/sDQRQrP


Still using 0208 I see...

I'm pretty jealous of your excellent hardware, sir.


















Gonna have to swap BIOS chips.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> how did you manage to read CPU VID is 1.175V? I think none of the popular tools e.g. cpuz. latest aida64, is able to give correct VID at this moment.


Get BIOS to actual default settings and check there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> It boils down to ram tuning and cpu's imc scaling. Bios memory profiles are based on highly binned rams.
> 
> Peeps need to tweak their ram/cpu and use profiles to start, especially with 8GB stick.


I wish it was that simple for me. You know the rams and such I got...but no dice...I wanted to use my C10's, but the combo doesn't work well for me at all with 0403.


----------



## ivers

this board is calling my name during the night. not sure if i should put that much cash on this.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> I've been playing with this board since Sept. and still found new ram setting combos
> 
> This run with hiighly binned cpu (out of 11pcs 4930Ks) and specially binned Dominator Platinum 2666C10 kits
> 
> Cpu mhz wall @ 6050 with imc 2950ish tights, core will go higher with more relax ram settings
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/sDQRQrP


with all due respect, sir, passing super pi is not an indication of stability for 24/7 use. Using this third timing 00004411410 is not going to pass p95 blend test with customized memory size with Dominator Platinum 2666C10 kit


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> I've been playing with this board since Sept. and still found new ram setting combos
> 
> This run with hiighly binned cpu (out of 11pcs 4930Ks) and specially binned Dominator Platinum 2666C10 kits
> 
> Cpu mhz wall @ 6050 with imc 2950ish tights, core will go higher with more relax ram settings
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/sDQRQrP


LN2 isn´t really 24/7







so yea wayne results for me, too !
24h Prime95 that's the real goal to achieve.

I´am on Super Pi 7m14sec and this is 24h Prime stabil.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Get BIOS to actual default settings and check there..


Any idea to make the readings correct after OC?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Any idea to make the readings correct after OC?


Do proper CMOS clear(battery removed), enable offset voltages.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> with all due respect, sir, passing super pi is not an indication of stability for 24/7 use. Using this third timing 00004411410 is not going to pass p95 blend test with customized memory size with Dominator Platinum 2666C10 kit


He's pretty clear that he is using high-binned parts, which to me makes your comment a bit out of place. For those that have access to bin parts ,this board works well, and under cold, it's great, for sure. 24/7, well, is a adventurous journey.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Do proper CMOS clear(battery removed), enable offset voltages.
> He's pretty clear that he is using high-binned parts, which to me makes your comment a bit out of place. For those that have access to bin parts ,this board works well, and under cold, it's great, for sure. 24/7, well, is a adventurous journey.


Are you saying that using offset mode, AIDA64 is able to read out correct VID?
I have 9 kits of corsair 2666c10, I binned them individually and I'm using the best 4 pieces.






















They are quad channel 3000c11 MEMTEST Pro 2000% coverage stable.


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

really wish I could assist with these BIOS/voltage/stability issues. most of you WC successfully after much trial and error no doubt, and I still wonder if risking coolant dribbling down across active(live) expensive boards and Chinese water-torturing the bottom-mounted PSU is worth it................









I noticed an "air vs water" type thread elsewhere here so I will revisit again.

I want to collect everything necessary first so I can test-fit and eyeball/measure for proper assembly and minimize as many downfalls as possible. Once I get operational and try to catch up I am sure I will have my own/similar BIOS issues to post as well.

In the meantime keep up with your hard work and invaluable efforts.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> really wish I could assist with these BIOS/voltage/stability issues. most of you WC successfully after much trial and error no doubt, and I still wonder if risking coolant dribbling down across active(live) expensive boards and Chinese water-torturing the bottom-mounted PSU is worth it................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed an "air vs water" type thread elsewhere here so I will revisit again.
> 
> I want to collect everything necessary first so I can test-fit and eyeball/measure for proper assembly and minimize as many downfalls as possible. Once I get operational and try to catch up I am sure I will have my own/similar BIOS issues to post as well.
> 
> In the meantime keep up with your hard work and invaluable efforts.


Watercooling is not nearly as difficult as you make it out and the benefits in overclocking and maximizing the components lifespan are definately worth the effort. Just like everything else, you can't go about things half witted or blindly. Attention to detail and common sense go a long way. Coolant dribbling down across boards??? LOl. You've been watching too many utube video's created by user's with questionable abilities and mental capacity. Lol! I personally haven't seen any type of dribbling, ever. Chinese water torturing the bottom PSU...... Not many of us watercool the PSU. Lol


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Are you saying that using offset mode, AIDA64 is able to read out correct VID?
> I have 9 kits of corsair 2666c10, I binned them individually and I'm using the best 4 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are quad channel 3000c11 MEMTEST Pro 2000% coverage stable.


If you have access to that sort of ram...how come the questions?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If you have access to that sort of ram...how come the questions?


For the record, I don't have access to binned ram or other PC parts. I paid for those 9 kits.
From the outcome of my tests, even my best 4 pieces of 2666c10 from overall 36 pieces are not able to p95 stable with the third timing shown in his picture.
My testing standard is 12 hr P95 (V28,1 build 2) custom mode (95%memory) stable. First, set all 3rd timing parameters to 7 is definitely stable. then I narrow down each of them one by one and test 12 hrs after each modifications. After all these tests, I find out the optimum 3rd timing is 00004500377.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> For the record, I don't have access to binned ram or other PC parts. I paid for those 9 kits.
> From the outcome of my tests, even my best 4 pieces of 2666c10 from overall 36 pieces are not able to p95 stable with the third timing shown in his picture.
> My testing standard is 12 hr P95 (V28,1 build 2) custom mode (95%memory) stable. First, set all 3rd timing parameters to 7 is definitely stable. then I narrow down each of them one by one and test 12 hrs after each modifications. After all these tests, I find out the optimum 3rd timing is 00004500377.


paying to bin is still giving yourself access to bin.









I'll try those timings out, fo sho. Did my math final last night, gotta get some review work done, play some games, then I'll get back to clocking the RIVBE.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> paying to bin is still giving yourself access to bin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try those timings out, fo sho. Did my math final last night, gotta get some review work done, play some games, then I'll get back to clocking the RIVBE.


you are a college student?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> you are a college student?


Ha, I wish.

But taking college courses does make me a college student, doesn't it?

oi....










I sit at home all day caring for my four kids, wife works and pays the bills. I do reviews to fund my PC hobby, but it's not a paying job...just a way for me to keep my hobby alive. After having four kids, it's been some time since I've had a job, so making a career change seemed to be the right choice to make now, so I've been going to school to get into environmental engineering.

I'll be 40 soon enough though.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Ha, I wish.
> 
> But taking college courses does make me a college student, doesn't it?
> 
> oi....


Definitely







:thumb:


----------



## Redshift 91

I know this is the Black Edition threads, so I'll begin this with an







disclaimer

That green and black Gigabyte board is pretty sexy. If I wasn't broke as hell from my personal build, I'd love to do a green and black build with one of those.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Think this motherboard will help get more out of my 3970x?

I can get 5.3GHz with 2400MHz cl9 out of my ram for bench runs. 4.9Ghz stable 24/7.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Think this motherboard will help get more out of my 3970x?
> 
> I can get 5.3GHz with 2400MHz cl9 out of my ram for bench runs. 4.9Ghz stable 24/7.


well if it ends up being the same as your old board...atleast it looks awesome


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> I am having the same issue with my system (see sig), although I am more stable at the moment than you are. I am trying to find a common element between the people having the problem and those that aren't and it seems more people with 8GB sticks are having problems.


For now, I got rid of the instant shutdown. But as Prime95 can fail after, 2, 4, 8, 10, 12 hours...so I don't know yet.

I posted this on ROG forums, sorry I'm mostly copy pasting this from there. What I would like to tell Asus, is that why don't they put a few 4x8 GB kits for a test run and see how they manage using XMP? It's easy to blame users unless you hit the issue yourself. I don't know why this Black Edition is targeted mostly to extreme OC anyway as far as the RAM profiles go, this board is marketed with Assassin's Creed IV and the BIOS already has "Gamer" profiles. Makes me think why I didn't go for P9X79-E WS which probably goes under much longer evaluation period and the WS boards are actually very good for gaming without any bling-bling. But anyway, here's how I've progressed today. Sorry for the rant.

I tried upping VTT/VCCSA today to 1.2V both, which both are already a bit dangerous, but that didn't solve anything. What I tried next was to shoot for stable VCCSA and go from there. First I tried way too low 0.85 V for VCCSA and I couldn't run Prime95 for a second. :O Okay, VCCSA had something to do with this issue no doubt?

I've experienced Prime95 to drop worker cores if VTT is too low or high. VCCSA on the other hand, does different things like these reboots. Now, I actually took the stock VCCSA for 4960X that was utilized on RIVE. It's around 0.95 V so I set that manually. Also went for 1.1 VTT to begin with.

After VCCSA at 0.95, I fired up Prime95 and one worker crashed at 2 minutes. But no sudden reboot! Okay. I tried VTT at 1.05 next, so far one hour and 10 minutes stable while I'm writing this.

So I guess this board needs a completely different approach, of course it would be nice if the board could play with our kits right out of the box. You can have too low or high VTT/VCCSA and it causes issues. I think you should NOT use the same voltage for VTT and VCCSA. I am also running 3-way SLI and from what I've read VCCSA is also related to the PCI-E controller so you need to find your best settings yourselves.


----------



## bastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> For now, I got rid of the instant shutdown. But as Prime95 can fail after, 2, 4, 8, 10, 12 hours...so I don't know yet.
> 
> I posted this on ROG forums, sorry I'm mostly copy pasting this from there. What I would like to tell Asus, is that why don't they put a few 4x8 GB kits for a test run and see how they manage using XMP? It's easy to blame users unless you hit the issue yourself. I don't know why this Black Edition is targeted mostly to extreme OC anyway as far as the RAM profiles go, this board is marketed with Assassin's Creed IV and the BIOS already has "Gamer" profiles. Makes me think why I didn't go for P9X79-E WS which probably goes under much longer evaluation period and the WS boards are actually very good for gaming without any bling-bling. But anyway, here's how I've progressed today. Sorry for the rant.
> 
> I tried upping VTT/VCCSA today to 1.2V both, which both are already a bit dangerous, but that didn't solve anything. What I tried next was to shoot for stable VCCSA and go from there. First I tried way too low 0.85 V for VCCSA and I couldn't run Prime95 for a second. :O Okay, VCCSA had something to do with this issue no doubt?
> 
> I've experienced Prime95 to drop worker cores if VTT is too low or high. VCCSA on the other hand, does different things like these reboots. Now, I actually took the stock VCCSA for 4960X that was utilized on RIVE. It's around 0.95 V so I set that manually. Also went for 1.1 VTT to begin with.
> 
> After VCCSA at 0.95, I fired up Prime95 and one worker crashed at 2 minutes. But no sudden reboot! Okay. I tried VTT at 1.05 next, so far one hour and 10 minutes stable while I'm writing this.
> 
> So I guess this board needs a completely different approach, of course it would be nice if the board could play with our kits right out of the box. You can have too low or high VTT/VCCSA and it causes issues. I think you should NOT use the same voltage for VTT and VCCSA. I am also running 3-way SLI and from what I've read VCCSA is also related to the PCI-E controller so you need to find your best settings yourselves.


I too thought the issue was more related to VTT/VCCSA, but I am not so sure anymore. You shouldn't need to go above 1.2v for these types of speeds on either voltage. And in fact, it is recommended not too.

Raja at ASUS seems to think it is related to 2nd/3rd memory timings.

As for VTT/VCCSA voltages, I've heard that there should be spacing between them, but don't recall what that was.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> I too thought the issue was more related to VTT/VCCSA, but I am not so sure anymore. You shouldn't need to go above 1.2v for these types of speeds on either voltage. And in fact, it is recommended not too.
> 
> Raja at ASUS seems to think it is related to 2nd/3rd memory timings.
> 
> As for VTT/VCCSA voltages, I've heard that there should be spacing between them, but don't recall what that was.


VCCSA and VTT should be kept within 0.05v of each other as per Intels recommendations and aid stability


----------



## skupples

El Gappo finally closed the News thread for this board!

Welcome dwellers, lerkers, & possible members!


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys,

I was able to successfully remove the I/O heatsink from the heatpipe from the mosfet block!
















The idea I mentioned a while back with using quick heat and expanding the aluminum from the pipe and softening the thermal bonding agent worked a treat.

About 10 minutes heating the aluminum sink with a propane torch, and the thermal glue started to melt and became visible, and a couple more minutes and the pipe would rotate freely in the sink and slide out with a little twisting motion as I pulled.

The white powdery stuff is the thermal glue, it'll dust off once it's all cooled.

The heat left no visible discolorations or blemishes on the heatsink, so it's ready to reinstall when cool.

Darlene


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55




----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I was able to successfully remove the I/O heatsink from the heatpipe from the mosfet block!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea I mentioned a while back with using quick heat and expanding the aluminum from the pipe and softening the thermal bonding agent worked a treat.
> 
> About 10 minutes heating the aluminum sink with a propane torch, and the thermal glue started to melt and became visible, and a couple more minutes and the pipe would rotate freely in the sink and slide out with a little twisting motion as I pulled.
> 
> The white powdery stuff is the thermal glue, it'll dust off once it's all cooled.
> 
> The heat left no visible discolorations or blemishes on the heatsink, so it's ready to reinstall when cool.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> I've been playing with this board since Sept. and still found new ram setting combos
> 
> This run with hiighly binned cpu (out of 11pcs 4930Ks) and specially binned Dominator Platinum 2666C10 kits
> 
> Cpu mhz wall @ 6050 with imc 2950ish tights, core will go higher with more relax ram settings
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/sDQRQrP


Looks great, but rotate the CPU block 90 degree.
There, where the water comes in must be in the south north then back out.

More to this why here in the link:
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/


----------



## B 0 n 3 z 55

(The Joker speaking out loud to himself and anyone else within earshot overheard saying
"...............where does she get those wonderful toys...?!?")


----------



## skupples

so that's what the @90degree means... Interesting.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> so that's what the @90degree means... Interesting.


Blocks with channels as opposed to ones with pins, seem to work a bit better when the channels run bottom to top in a normal vertical ATX layout.

I have mine setup with the channels front to back, but there's a particular reason for that, and I'll give up the ~2* C that I'll loose over it.

Darlene


----------



## bastian

Anyone with the random reboots try playing with Latency Boundary? Nearer, further, farthest


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivers*
> 
> this board is calling my name during the night. not sure if i should put that much cash on this.


you should, and welcome ! ) hehe
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> I've been playing with this board since Sept. and still found new ram setting combos
> 
> This run with hiighly binned cpu (out of 11pcs 4930Ks) and specially binned Dominator Platinum 2666C10 kits
> 
> Cpu mhz wall @ 6050 with imc 2950ish tights, core will go higher with more relax ram settings
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/sDQRQrP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with all due respect, sir, passing super pi is not an indication of stability for 24/7 use. Using this third timing 00004411410 is not going to pass p95 blend test with customized memory size with Dominator Platinum 2666C10 kit
Click to expand...

huh? 1.6vcore and you think he should prime ???!?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> really wish I could assist with these BIOS/voltage/stability issues. most of you WC successfully after much trial and error no doubt, and I still wonder if risking coolant dribbling down across active(live) expensive boards and Chinese water-torturing the bottom-mounted PSU is worth it................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed an "air vs water" type thread elsewhere here so I will revisit again.
> 
> I want to collect everything necessary first so I can test-fit and eyeball/measure for proper assembly and minimize as many downfalls as possible. Once I get operational and try to catch up I am sure I will have my own/similar BIOS issues to post as well.
> 
> In the meantime keep up with your hard work and invaluable efforts.


how about this ... what is your question ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> really wish I could assist with these BIOS/voltage/stability issues. most of you WC successfully after much trial and error no doubt, and I still wonder if risking coolant dribbling down across active(live) expensive boards and Chinese water-torturing the bottom-mounted PSU is worth it................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed an "air vs water" type thread elsewhere here so I will revisit again.
> 
> I want to collect everything necessary first so I can test-fit and eyeball/measure for proper assembly and minimize as many downfalls as possible. Once I get operational and try to catch up I am sure I will have my own/similar BIOS issues to post as well.
> 
> In the meantime keep up with your hard work and invaluable efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercooling is not nearly as difficult as you make it out and the benefits in overclocking and maximizing the components lifespan are definately worth the effort. Just like everything else, you can't go about things half witted or blindly. Attention to detail and common sense go a long way. Coolant dribbling down across boards??? LOl. You've been watching too many utube video's created by user's with questionable abilities and mental capacity. Lol! I personally haven't seen any type of dribbling, ever. Chinese water torturing the bottom PSU...... Not many of us watercool the PSU. Lol
Click to expand...

agreed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I was able to successfully remove the I/O heatsink from the heatpipe from the mosfet block!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea I mentioned a while back with using quick heat and expanding the aluminum from the pipe and softening the thermal bonding agent worked a treat.
> 
> About 10 minutes heating the aluminum sink with a propane torch, and the thermal glue started to melt and became visible, and a couple more minutes and the pipe would rotate freely in the sink and slide out with a little twisting motion as I pulled.
> 
> The white powdery stuff is the thermal glue, it'll dust off once it's all cooled.
> 
> The heat left no visible discolorations or blemishes on the heatsink, so it's ready to reinstall when cool.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


THANKS SO MUCH !!!! what kind of torch are you using map gas??


----------



## OverclockerFox

So, thought I'd stop in and ask how everyone's enjoying the board. In my case, I decided to wait till Haswell-E before dropping a ton of coin.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Blocks with channels as opposed to ones with pins, seem to work a bit better when the channels run bottom to top in a normal vertical ATX layout.
> 
> I have mine setup with the channels front to back, but there's a particular reason for that, and I'll give up the ~2* C that I'll loose over it.
> 
> Darlene


Waaay too much work for me to tear it all down & fix it now. I'll switch it up when my motherboard shroud comes in . Also, not every test showed my block running cooler inverted. /shrug


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Blocks with channels as opposed to ones with pins, seem to work a bit better when the channels run bottom to top in a normal vertical ATX layout.
> 
> I have mine setup with the channels front to back, but there's a particular reason for that, and I'll give up the ~2* C that I'll loose over it.
> 
> Darlene


I did it that way, mostly by mistake and without any reasoning. Seems to work fine!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Just got done with my memory to accent the Black Edition.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Just got done with my memory to accent the Black Edition.


Very nice! You engraved right into the spreader?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Just got done with my memory to accent the Black Edition.


DUDE.....nice job!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Very nice! You engraved right into the spreader?


Yep, Was gonna do my gamertag, LaBestiaHumanaMX, but since I always end up selling my stuff to upgrade, I stuck with just the OEM branding.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> DUDE.....nice job!


Thank you sir!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Done with today's project.

Laser engrave Memory Heatsinks and Custom SLI bridge.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

That looks amazing man! Same RAM I'm considering, but the stock red will go OK with my regular RIVE...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ivers*
> 
> this board is calling my name during the night. not sure if i should put that much cash on this.
> 
> 
> 
> you should, and welcome ! ) hehe
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> I've been playing with this board since Sept. and still found new ram setting combos
> 
> This run with hiighly binned cpu (out of 11pcs 4930Ks) and specially binned Dominator Platinum 2666C10 kits
> 
> Cpu mhz wall @ 6050 with imc 2950ish tights, core will go higher with more relax ram settings
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/sDQRQrP
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> with all due respect, sir, passing super pi is not an indication of stability for 24/7 use. Using this third timing 00004411410 is not going to pass p95 blend test with customized memory size with Dominator Platinum 2666C10 kit
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> huh? 1.6vcore and you think he should prime ???!?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> really wish I could assist with these BIOS/voltage/stability issues. most of you WC successfully after much trial and error no doubt, and I still wonder if risking coolant dribbling down across active(live) expensive boards and Chinese water-torturing the bottom-mounted PSU is worth it................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed an "air vs water" type thread elsewhere here so I will revisit again.
> 
> I want to collect everything necessary first so I can test-fit and eyeball/measure for proper assembly and minimize as many downfalls as possible. Once I get operational and try to catch up I am sure I will have my own/similar BIOS issues to post as well.
> 
> In the meantime keep up with your hard work and invaluable efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> how about this ... what is your question ?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B 0 n 3 z 55*
> 
> really wish I could assist with these BIOS/voltage/stability issues. most of you WC successfully after much trial and error no doubt, and I still wonder if risking coolant dribbling down across active(live) expensive boards and Chinese water-torturing the bottom-mounted PSU is worth it................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed an "air vs water" type thread elsewhere here so I will revisit again.
> 
> I want to collect everything necessary first so I can test-fit and eyeball/measure for proper assembly and minimize as many downfalls as possible. Once I get operational and try to catch up I am sure I will have my own/similar BIOS issues to post as well.
> 
> In the meantime keep up with your hard work and invaluable efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Watercooling is not nearly as difficult as you make it out and the benefits in overclocking and maximizing the components lifespan are definately worth the effort. Just like everything else, you can't go about things half witted or blindly. Attention to detail and common sense go a long way. Coolant dribbling down across boards??? LOl. You've been watching too many utube video's created by user's with questionable abilities and mental capacity. Lol! I personally haven't seen any type of dribbling, ever. Chinese water torturing the bottom PSU...... Not many of us watercool the PSU. Lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> agreed
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I was able to successfully remove the I/O heatsink from the heatpipe from the mosfet block!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea I mentioned a while back with using quick heat and expanding the aluminum from the pipe and softening the thermal bonding agent worked a treat.
> 
> About 10 minutes heating the aluminum sink with a *propane torch*, and the thermal glue started to melt and became visible, and a couple more minutes and the pipe would rotate freely in the sink and slide out with a little twisting motion as I pulled.
> 
> The white powdery stuff is the thermal glue, it'll dust off once it's all cooled.
> 
> The heat left no visible discolorations or blemishes on the heatsink, so it's ready to reinstall when cool.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> THANKS SO MUCH !!!! what kind of torch are you using map gas??
Click to expand...

Propane torch, one of the nicer ones, but still just propane, map may be too hot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Blocks with channels as opposed to ones with pins, seem to work a bit better when the channels run bottom to top in a normal vertical ATX layout.
> 
> I have mine setup with the channels front to back, but there's a particular reason for that, and I'll give up the ~2* C that I'll loose over it.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Waaay too much work for me to tear it all down & fix it now. I'll switch it up when my motherboard shroud comes in . Also, not every test showed my block running cooler inverted. /shrug
Click to expand...

It's applicable to socket 2011, and only some blocks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Blocks with channels as opposed to ones with pins, seem to work a bit better when the channels run bottom to top in a normal vertical ATX layout.
> 
> I have mine setup with the channels front to back, but there's a particular reason for that, and I'll give up the ~2* C that I'll loose over it.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I did it that way, mostly by mistake and without any reasoning. Seems to work fine!
Click to expand...

The testing shows only a 1 to 3C improvement, so it's not like you're going to get miserable temps with the block side to side.

Sometimes aesthetics trumps a couple degrees big-time.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> That looks amazing man! Same RAM I'm considering, but the stock red will go OK with my regular RIVE...


Yeah, with the Extreme this kit looks really good. But I tried to minimize the red, since my theme is black/Gray. I even replaced the red connectors on my 1300G2 power supply lol


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Done with today's project.
> 
> Laser engrave Memory Heatsinks and Custom SLI bridge.


Looks amazing good job
That would look killer in my build, although the original red also looks good


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Looks amazing good job
> That would look killer in my build, although the original red also looks good


Thanks, red looks great, but with some extra resources and time on my hands. Why not lol


----------



## Slinky PC

2014 Slinky Supercomputer is arrived








RIVBE, i74960X, 32GB G.SKILL 3000MHz, NVIDIA GTX TITAN quad SLI
Water-cooled for CPU, 8 RAM, 4 Titan, 2 HDD and 4 DDC Pumps


----------



## skupples




----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 2014 Slinky Supercomputer is arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIVBE, i74960X, 32GB G.SKILL 3000MHz, NVIDIA GTX TITAN quad SLI
> Water-cooled for CPU, 8 RAM, 4 Titan, 2 HDD and 4 DDC Pumps


Grats, you runnin 1 or 2 PSU's in that thing?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Man I hope I don't have problems with the ram I got for this board.......
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
Its on the QVL list for the RIVBE so hopefully ill be gtg


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Man I hope I don't have problems with the ram I got for this board.......
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
> Its on the QVL list for the RIVBE so hopefully ill be gtg


I don't think we've yet encountered problems with ripjaws or trident x


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 2014 Slinky Supercomputer is arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIVBE, i74960X, 32GB G.SKILL 3000MHz, NVIDIA GTX TITAN quad SLI
> Water-cooled for CPU, 8 RAM, 4 Titan, 2 HDD and 4 DDC Pumps


That beast is absolutely freakin incredible. Can you please link me to some sort of build log or even spec list of the WC Gear you used? That things CRAZY


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> I too thought the issue was more related to VTT/VCCSA, but I am not so sure anymore. You shouldn't need to go above 1.2v for these types of speeds on either voltage. And in fact, it is recommended not too.
> 
> Raja at ASUS seems to think it is related to 2nd/3rd memory timings.
> 
> As for VTT/VCCSA voltages, I've heard that there should be spacing between them, but don't recall what that was.


Hi, I figured it out now I think? I just ran P95 for 13 hours 23 minutes and full stable.

As I wrote I just tried 1.2 V for VTT/VCCSA just to see if it would make any difference, no it didn't. I think the AUTO voltages are way off that these need to be, that's why we run into issues. On the other hand the XMP profile with my RAM would like to use 1.3 V for VTT or VCCSA, I never remember which one that is but thank god it has never applied on any board..that voltage would kill any chip for sure. I have to say I'm not an experienced RAM clocker, I usually run the RAM at the rated speed only at it's stock voltage. I've never touched any secondary timings..

What I did was that I picked the VCCSA my RIVE gave for my 4960X at stock (0.95V) and after that I didn't get instant shutdown...after that I started tuning VTT voltage up/down. For now I have relaxed the timings and the next step is to "tighten" them to stock.









I'll upload the BIOS screens next when I have the time. A few people have run into this issue, so hope this helps. Thanks.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The testing shows only a 1 to 3C improvement, so it's not like you're going to get miserable temps with the block side to side.
> 
> Sometimes aesthetics trumps a couple degrees big-time.


So you're right, it does not cause very much that rotate about 90 degrees.

But I have installed a backplatemod they brings 2-4 ° C.
Plus the 1-2 ° C degrees less when turning the water cooler at 90 degrees.
I'll grind my CPU, which also brings a little less temperature.

I want to do everything imaginable to lower the temperatures.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hi, I figured it out now I think? I just ran P95 for 13 hours 23 minutes and full stable.
> 
> As I wrote I just tried 1.2 V for VTT/VCCSA just to see if it would make any difference, no it didn't. I think the AUTO voltages are way off that these need to be, that's why we run into issues. On the other hand the XMP profile with my RAM would like to use 1.3 V for VTT or VCCSA, I never remember which one that is but thank god it has never applied on any board..that voltage would kill any chip for sure. I have to say I'm not an experienced RAM clocker, I usually run the RAM at the rated speed only at it's stock voltage. I've never touched any secondary timings..
> 
> What I did was that I picked the VCCSA my RIVE gave for my 4960X at stock (0.95V) and after that I didn't get instant shutdown...after that I started tuning VTT voltage up/down. For now I have relaxed the timings and the next step is to "tighten" them to stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll upload the BIOS screens next when I have the time. A few people have run into this issue, so hope this helps. Thanks.


what is the LLC setting for VCCSA ？ I believe when you start tighten memory timing, VTT and VCCSA need some tunings again accordingly.
For my case, the key to prevent instant shut-down during stress test is to set VCCSA LLC to EXTREME.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Set LLC to high that´s better.


----------



## Black Cobra




----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That beast is absolutely freakin incredible. Can you please link me to some sort of build log or even spec list of the WC Gear you used? That things CRAZY


It´s not crazy, it is ugly !


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 2014 Slinky Supercomputer is arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIVBE, i74960X, 32GB G.SKILL 3000MHz, NVIDIA GTX TITAN quad SLI
> Water-cooled for CPU, 8 RAM, 4 Titan, 2 HDD and 4 DDC Pumps


Dang were you on acid when you made this thing


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> So you're right, it does not cause very much that rotate about 90 degrees.
> 
> But I have installed a backplatemod they brings 2-4 ° C.
> Plus the 1-2 ° C degrees less when turning the water cooler at 90 degrees.
> I'll grind my CPU, which also brings a little less temperature.
> 
> I want to do everything imaginable to lower the temperatures.


How did you avoid getting shavings into the IHS hole when lapping/grinding the CPU? I was looking to lap mine to a mirror, I have all the sand paper types up to 2500, but that IHS hole made my shy away from doing so.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black Cobra*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*Welcome to the club & OCN!*

Got all my leak testing done over night, only one leak, which was coming from a rad cap, so no big deal there. 23 out of 24 fans are fine, need to replace one that's noisy. I should be getting ready to fire her up by tonight. It's so damned heavy, + 900D being a wobbly beast = I have to get help to move it into place.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hi, I figured it out now I think? I just ran P95 for 13 hours 23 minutes and full stable.
> 
> As I wrote I just tried 1.2 V for VTT/VCCSA just to see if it would make any difference, no it didn't. I think the AUTO voltages are way off that these need to be, that's why we run into issues. On the other hand the XMP profile with my RAM would like to use 1.3 V for VTT or VCCSA, I never remember which one that is but thank god it has never applied on any board..that voltage would kill any chip for sure. I have to say I'm not an experienced RAM clocker, I usually run the RAM at the rated speed only at it's stock voltage. I've never touched any secondary timings..
> 
> What I did was that I picked the VCCSA my RIVE gave for my 4960X at stock (0.95V) and after that I didn't get instant shutdown...after that I started tuning VTT voltage up/down. For now I have relaxed the timings and the next step is to "tighten" them to stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll upload the BIOS screens next when I have the time. A few people have run into this issue, so hope this helps. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what is the LLC setting for VCCSA ？ I believe when you start tighten memory timing, VTT and VCCSA need some tunings again accordingly.
> For my case, the key to prevent instant shut-down during stress test is to set VCCSA LLC to EXTREME.
Click to expand...

huh? you know you are overvolting your chip right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black Cobra*


welcome !


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The testing shows only a 1 to 3C improvement, so it's not like you're going to get miserable temps with the block side to side.
> 
> Sometimes aesthetics trumps a couple degrees big-time.
> 
> 
> 
> So you're right, it does not cause very much that rotate about 90 degrees.
> 
> But I have installed a backplatemod they brings 2-4 ° C.
> Plus the 1-2 ° C degrees less when turning the water cooler at 90 degrees.
> I'll grind my CPU, which also brings a little less temperature.
> 
> I want to do everything imaginable to lower the temperatures.
Click to expand...

Some builds are planned to leverage every little bit of performance possible.

A degree or 2 here, and degree or 2 there, it all adds up for sure.

You're surely looking for each degree you can get . . . .

The Dynatron backplate mod was good for a couple degrees, but it wasn't tested against a fan moving cool air at the rear of the CPU, so that may be about as good, and depending on setup, may be easier.

My R4BE build focus is in a different direction . . .

I'm not a bencher, and this build was planned to perform well, but ultimate performance is not my end goal.

This build was all about a totally unique look, with some never before done mods.

I went the low tech way with a fan behind the CPU, will let one of the Aquaeros control it based on CPU temp:



But the overall look was what guided my mods for this build:



And the power side window mod:


----------



## _REAPER_

I was wondering if someone had the page number/ or link for a bios at 4.5GHZ would be at for this mobo and a 4960X


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> How did you avoid getting shavings into the IHS hole when lapping/grinding the CPU? I was looking to lap mine to a mirror, I have all the sand paper types up to 2500, but that IHS hole made my shy away from doing so.


I'm just grinding, tonight there is an update from me in my Buildlog.

To close the hole I have a small non-conductive thermal compound drops
filled. This drop will eliminate later, with a needle is doing fine.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? you know you are overvolting your chip right?


what's your point?
overclocking is achieved by overvolting your chip right?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? you know you are overvolting your chip right?
> 
> 
> 
> what's your point?
> overclocking is achieved by overvolting your chip right?
Click to expand...

as long as you know extreme llc makes you over shoot your bios setting

i guess a better question would be why dont you just set your volts to where it needs to be and then choose an appropriate llc rather then under shoot your needed voltage and then compensate with LLC?


----------



## mikep577

I have made the first OC tweaks to my system, please feel free to comment on my settings.
I confident that a lot can still be optimized and hopefully some one can help me








My ambition is to run as efficient as possible while keep temps below 80c under 100% load.

To see my full specifications please check my signature.
(CPU Ive 4930x, 16gb Corsair platinum 2133, two swiftech radiator running 7 120mm Noctua fans, corsair AX1200i PSU)

From the standart bios(0430) setup i have tweaked the following.

Extreme tweaker menu
> Loaded "160BLCK OC Profile"
> "Ai Overclock Tuner" > to Manual
> "BCLK Frequency" 161.008 (008 happens when you enter 161)
> "CPU core Ratio" to Sync all cores
> "1 core ratio limit" 28
> "CPU VCORE Voltage" to manual
> "CPU VCORE Manual Voltage" to 1.350

Then in DRM Timing controle under Extreme tweaker menu i have done the following
> "Rampage Tweak" mode 3 (this because i have an Ive Bridge-E)

Result: CPU 4.517mhz Mem 2500mhz
-I have successfully stress tested the CPU for straight 8 hours with Prime95,
temp highest core was 79c and the lowest 72c. When idle these were 38-35c
-The memory was successfully tested with Memtest86+ 5.0.1 (see screenshot)
-I have benchmarked it with super Pi 1.5
-Test were i selected 8M resulted in 01m33.423


----------



## jamiee

My 4.4GHz run....



Had to boost Vcore a touch to remain stable and also tightened up a couple of primary memory timings in the process.
Lot's still to go... But I'm taking my time to see what works well and what doesn't.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> what is the LLC setting for VCCSA ？ I believe when you start tighten memory timing, VTT and VCCSA need some tunings again accordingly.
> For my case, the key to prevent instant shut-down during stress test is to set VCCSA LLC to EXTREME.


My LLC is set to AUTO but I use manual VCCSA now at 0.96V, and according to HWINFO, it went as high as 1.0 V (which isn't a "dangerous" voltage yet at all).

Currently priming at 4.4 with RAM at rated settings. Testing continues...


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Some builds are planned to leverage every little bit of performance possible.
> 
> A degree or 2 here, and degree or 2 there, it all adds up for sure.
> 
> You're surely looking for each degree you can get . . . .
> 
> The Dynatron backplate mod was good for a couple degrees, but it wasn't tested against a fan moving cool air at the rear of the CPU, so that may be about as good, and depending on setup, may be easier.
> 
> My R4BE build focus is in a different direction . . .
> 
> I'm not a bencher, and this build was planned to perform well, but ultimate performance is not my end goal.
> 
> This build was all about a totally unique look, with some never before done mods.


We have a different goals, but we are all spezial, we are nerd´s in computer building and desgining too.
I like you build !


----------



## King4x4

Just ordered mine from Amazon.

Hope it will ship soon!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Just ordered mine from Amazon.
> 
> Hope it will ship soon!


*CONNNGRAAATTTUUULLATTIONNNS! WELCOME TO THE MOST EPIC MOTHERBOARD ON THE PLANET CLUB*


----------



## evoll88

I just ordered this M.B. last night with a 900d to do a new build (sold my phantom and switch 810 builds). I wanted to do a black/blue theme but after ordering this M.B. I noticed it has red logo in the middle of it. Does it light up or can I turn off the light? I can change the build to black/red theme if it would look better and use red tridents instead of blue rip jaws.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evoll88*
> 
> I just ordered this M.B. last night with a 900d to do a new build (sold my phantom and switch 810 builds). I wanted to do a black/blue theme but after ordering this M.B. I noticed it has red logo in the middle of it. Does it light up or can I turn off the light? I can change the build to black/red theme if it would look better and use red tridents instead of blue rip jaws.


The LED's can be disabled in the BIOS.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black Cobra*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


GRATS GRATS GRATS GRATS GRATS !!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Just ordered mine from Amazon.
> 
> Hope it will ship soon!


W000 grats!! Orders count too!! WELCOME!!!!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> *CONNNGRAAATTTUUULLATTIONNNS! WELCOME TO THE MOST EPIC MOTHERBOARD ON THE PLANET CLUB*


SKUPS YOUR SOOO HAPPY TODAY LOL


----------



## 6steven9

I have a general question about Overclocking basically are there any issue with running a low vcore as possible other then too low it won't post? I know too much like over 1.4v is really bad. I'm attempting my first overclocking with this board and 4930k and 16gb's of 1866 corsair doms. What I've been doing so far is in the bios i just chose the cpu level up to 4.5 ghz and just manually set the vcore gradually lower and lower by .005 increments currently i'm @ 1.290v still trying to lower and stress test with prime95 and monitoring it with cpuid everything is automatic. For the ram i manually OC'd it to 2133 with 10-10-10-30 CR1 @1.490v and lowering that by .005. My goal is to get 4.5ghz with 2133 with lowest temps possible on h100i in push pull.

Any other advice you guys can give me or other monitoring tools to make sure i do this safely would be much appreciated.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> I have a general question about Overclocking basically are there any issue with running a low vcore as possible other then too low it won't post? I know too much like over 1.4v is really bad. I'm attempting my first overclocking with this board and 4930k and 16gb's of 1866 corsair doms. What I've been doing so far is in the bios i just chose the cpu level up to 4.5 ghz and just manually set the vcore gradually lower and lower by .005 increments currently i'm @ 1.290v still trying to lower and stress test with prime95 and monitoring it with cpuid everything is automatic. For the ram i manually OC'd it to 2133 with 10-10-10-30 CR1 @1.490v and lowering that by .005. My goal is to get 4.5ghz with 2133 with lowest temps possible on h100i in push pull.
> 
> Any other advice you guys can give me or other monitoring tools to make sure i do this safely would be much appreciated.


all cpu lv up is is a pre set of settings based on asus tests on what a general number of cpu takes

you would probably be better starting from stock and doing the same thing going the other way, your goal is always lowest vcore possible


----------



## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> But the overall look was what guided my mods for this build:


My god, what am I looking at


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heracles*
> 
> My god, what am I looking at


*Looks like Shuttle Bay #1 to me*


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> *Looks like Shuttle Bay #1 to me*


Or something out of Star Wars


----------



## evoll88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The LED's can be disabled in the BIOS.


Ok awesome,thanks for the info.


----------



## yttocstfarc

I saw something about this but I can't find it. How important is it to add the 4 pin power to the motherboard? Is it a must?


----------



## wermad

Hello, Im wondering how the onboard audio stacks up? Is it comparable to the chips like the ones on the Extreme11, Assassin2, Sniper3, sniper5? Or is it a glorified Realtek like the Big Bang 2?

I'm returning a faulty Extreme11 X79 and the BE is on the top of my list for an X79 setup. Thanks


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I saw something about this but I can't find it. How important is it to add the 4 pin power to the motherboard? Is it a must?


It's recommended for heavy OC. Honestly though, if you have the PSU cables to make it work, you might as well hook it up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hello, Im wondering how the onboard audio stacks up? Is it comparable to the chips like the ones on the Extreme11, Assassin2, Sniper3, sniper5? Or is it a glorified Realtek like the Big Bang 2?
> 
> I'm returning a faulty Extreme11 X79 and the BE is on the top of my list for an X79 setup. Thanks


It takes up a decent chunk of the motherboard. It's not super amazing, but I would guess it's better than the standard realtek stuff.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hello, Im wondering how the onboard audio stacks up? Is it comparable to the chips like the ones on the Extreme11, Assassin2, Sniper3, sniper5? Or is it a glorified Realtek like the Big Bang 2?
> 
> I'm returning a faulty Extreme11 X79 and the BE is on the top of my list for an X79 setup. Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> All I have used for sound are headphones so far and some Klipsch 2.1 speakers. It sounds quite good, as good as my Xonar in my other rig but I have not as yet tested it with my big amps and my Bose and B&W speakers and a scope. I have never used on board sound before but I am hoping that this will live up to expectations. I hope to get to that point (of testing) some time next week.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's recommended for heavy OC. Honestly though, if you have the PSU cables to make it work, you might as well hook it up.
> It takes up a decent chunk of the motherboard. It's not super amazing, but I would guess it's better than the standard realtek stuff.


skupp, thats the plan but the ax1200 only has 4 slots if i go tri sli im gonna have to drop the 4pin power, how much is heavy oc? Im only gonna get so far on a H100i


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> *CONNNGRAAATTTUUULLATTIONNNS! WELCOME TO THE MOST EPIC MOTHERBOARD ON THE PLANET CLUB*


So, like, is the original RIVE the second most epic mobo on the planet now?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> So, like, is the original RIVE the second most epic mobo on the planet now?



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> skupp, thats the plan but the ax1200 only has 4 slots if i go tri sli im gonna have to drop the 4pin power, how much is heavy oc? Im only gonna get so far on a H100i


Looks like you should be able to run the extra 4 pin just fine. 6 out of the 8 will go to GPU's, then one of the two left over will go to the extra 4 pin.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I saw something about this but I can't find it. How important is it to add the 4 pin power to the motherboard? Is it a must?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's recommended for heavy OC. Honestly though, if you have the PSU cables to make it work, you might as well hook it up.
> It takes up a decent chunk of the motherboard. It's not super amazing, but I would guess it's better than the standard realtek stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> skupp, thats the plan but the ax1200 only has 4 slots if i go tri sli im gonna have to drop the 4pin power, how much is heavy oc? Im only gonna get so far on a H100i
Click to expand...

huh?

the 4 pin is recomended for 3+cards you know it is just a 4 pin molex right???


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh?
> 
> the 4 pin is recomended for 3+cards you know it is just a 4 pin molex right???


I thought he was talking about the one @ the top of the motherboard.

There are two extra power connectors. A molex, @ the bottom by the USB's meant for 3+ GPU's, & a 4pin @ the top of the board for more CPU power.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh?
> 
> the 4 pin is recomended for 3+cards you know it is just a 4 pin molex right???


Not the molex one the 4pin at the top of the mother board.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I thought he was talking about the one @ the top of the motherboard.
> 
> There are two extra power connectors. A molex, @ the bottom by the USB's meant for 3+ GPU's, & a 4pin @ the top of the board for more CPU power.


I got you skupps I see what your saying i misunderstood what I was looking at









But I will go ahead and hook up that 4 pin just because i got the cables for it. Thanks guys


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Not the molex one the 4pin at the top of the mother board.


OK yeah, that's what I thought. You should have plenty of extra room, & the supplied cable to hook it up. Hell, even my HX850 & AX860 come with the extra CPU 8 pin cable. The only way you wouldn't would be if you were running quad-sli.


----------



## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> *Looks like Shuttle Bay #1 to me*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Or something out of Star Wars


I was thinking top secret lab or something, not the innards of a pc


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> OK yeah, that's what I thought. You should have plenty of extra room, & the supplied cable to hook it up. Hell, even my HX850 & AX860 come with the extra CPU 8 pin cable. The only way you wouldn't would be if you were running quad-sli.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I got you skupps I see what your saying i misunderstood what I was looking at


its there i was being stupid, had a brian fart...lol
10-4 all is well carry on.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Arm3nian

What molex? I don't see it in the manual or on my motherboard.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> What molex? I don't see it in the manual or on my motherboard.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> OK yeah, that's what I thought. You should have plenty of extra room, & the supplied cable to hook it up. Hell, even my HX850 & AX860 come with the extra CPU 8 pin cable. The only way you wouldn't would be if you were running quad-sli.


You have the g2 1300 right? I just plugged the second cpu power cable in the 4 slot. Now I'm running the 4 pin and 8pin. Which connector head did you use, the right or left.. because the right seems to have 2 squares just like the motherboard connector, but both fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*


Lol it's pointing downwards when in a case.


----------



## skupples

I figure, if Asus put them there I might as well hook them up. Though, it will be slightly uglier until I make single headed molex cables. Totally worth it, as i'm a performance first, aesthetics second, kinda guy when it comes to my own towers. hrmm, grammar is slipping hard, must be close to bed time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> You have the g2 1300 right? I just plugged the second cpu power cable in the 4 slot. Now I'm running the 4 pin and 8pin. Which connector head did you use, the right or left.. because the right seems to have 2 squares just like the motherboard connector, but both fit.
> Lol it's pointing downwards when in a case.


Oh, didn't even notice that. I'm using the AX860 to power the motherboard, but it too has different shaped pins. Not positive which one I used, but I know it was easy to get in. Now you have me worried there is a difference between the two. Like one is all ground, or something.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I figure, if Asus put them there I might as well hook them up. Though, it will be slightly uglier until I make single headed molex cables. Totally worth it, as i'm a performance first, aesthetics second, kinda guy when it comes to my own towers. hrmm, grammar is slipping hard, must be close to bed time.
> Oh, didn't even notice that. I'm using the AX860 to power the motherboard, but it too has different shaped pins. Not positive which one I used, but I know it was easy to get in.


Both fit easy for me also. I don't think it matters?
The manual on page 2-8 shows 8pin in 8pin, 4pin in 8 pin, or 4pin in 8pin, doesn't show both 4pin and 8pin being used, hope I don't fry anything.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Both fit easy for me also. I don't think it matters?
> The manual on page 2-8 shows 8pin in 8pin, 4pin in 8 pin, or 4pin in 8pin, doesn't show both 4pin and 8pin being used, hope I don't fry anything.


I don't think frying something would happen, more likely that it just won't do anything @ all.

Need some one with knowledge to edumacate me on this.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't think frying something would happen, more likely that it just won't do anything @ all.
> 
> Need some one with knowledge to edumacate me on this.


Well my build hasn't blown up yet, but I'll disconnect it till we figure it out


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Both fit easy for me also. I don't think it matters?
> The manual on page 2-8 shows 8pin in 8pin, 4pin in 8 pin, or 4pin in 8pin, doesn't show both 4pin and 8pin being used, hope I don't fry anything.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think frying something would happen, more likely that it just won't do anything @ all.
> 
> Need some one with knowledge to edumacate me on this.
Click to expand...

no it just adds to the pool of power available for use !


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Only need the 8pin cpu plug in for mere mortals, gods that get 6GHz out of a 4960x need the extra 4pin plugged in.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Only need the 8pin cpu plug in for mere mortals, gods that get 6GHz out of a 4960x need the extra 4pin plugged in.


I understand that part, but might as well have it plugged in anyways. The question is, does it matter which side of the 4+4 is used?

Your statement makes me want to drop a pot on my Maximus V Formula.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's recommended for heavy OC. Honestly though, if you have the PSU cables to make it work, you might as well hook it up.
> It takes up a decent chunk of the motherboard. It's not super amazing, but I would guess it's better than the standard realtek stuff.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
Click to expand...

There's only one review and I'm still unsure. The E11 has a Core3D chip which is not as good as a discrete but far better then the crappy Realtek. I loved the Sniper3 and 5 audio chips and hence why I went w/ the E11. But now the E11 is going back so I'm looking for something else. I have four gpu(s) and so I need a board w/ a great onboard chip.

I'll keep researching before i make a decision. i just don't want to end up w/ a glorified Realtek chip like the MSI Big Bang II X79









Any further input would be appreciated


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's only one review and I'm still unsure. The E11 has a Core3D chip which is not as good as a discrete but far better then the crappy Realtek. I loved the Sniper3 and 5 audio chips and hence why I went w/ the E11. But now the E11 is going back so I'm looking for something else. I have four gpu(s) and so I need a board w/ a great onboard chip.
> 
> I'll keep researching before i make a decision. i just don't want to end up w/ a glorified Realtek chip like the MSI Big Bang II X79
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any further input would be appreciated


when seeking reviews look for ones on the Vi series, it's the exact same unit.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hello, Im wondering how the onboard audio stacks up? Is it comparable to the chips like the ones on the Extreme11, Assassin2, Sniper3, sniper5? Or is it a glorified Realtek like the Big Bang 2?
> 
> I'm returning a faulty Extreme11 X79 and the BE is on the top of my list for an X79 setup. Thanks


I like it better than my XFI superdooper card. Yet I use only a 2.1 setup and headphones for now. Also it frees up a slot for other devices.

this RT chip does not have the hollow sound and actually has thump.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> I like it better than my XFI superdooper card. Yet I use only a 2.1 setup and headphones for now. Also it frees up a slot for other devices.
> 
> this RT chip does not have the hollow sound and actually has thump.


So its a realtek chip?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So its a realtek chip?


Yes, well it uses realtek drivers. I haven't used the newer version on the black yet, but the version on my Max V formula sounds great. No hollow/echo effects like allot of the crappy on board, & like he said, it thumps.


----------



## wermad

Ugh, sounds sketchy (no pun intended







). I'll wait for a few more reviews. The CL chips have been impressive and I'm not looking for the same level as a dedicated card but I can't go back to the vanilla realtek audio 98% of boards out there come with.

Thanks guys


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ugh, sounds sketchy (no pun intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I'll wait for a few more reviews. The CL chips have been impressive and I'm not looking for the same level as a dedicated card but I can't go back to the vanilla realtek audio 98% of boards out there come with.
> 
> Thanks guys


While it is realtek, it's not the normal realtek solution.



this is what it looks like on the board. Those red caps are the main upgrade over the V series revision. They replaced about 10 of those standard battery looking caps.


----------



## wermad

Is it similar to the RIVF?


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So its a realtek chip?


This one I think.
Realtek ALC1150 audio chip
http://www.realtek.com.tw/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PFid=28&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=328


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is it similar to the RIVF?


Two generations newer, as it's the same one from the M Vi series.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> While it is realtek, it's not the normal realtek solution.
> 
> 
> 
> this is what it looks like on the board. Those red caps are the main upgrade over the V series revision. They replaced about 10 of those standard battery looking caps.


----------



## wermad

Thanks guys, I'll wait for more reviews as I'm not fully convince once i hear the name Realtek







.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks guys, I'll wait for more reviews as I'm not fully convince once i hear the name Realtek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-x79-motherboard-review/16/


----------



## skupples

The only thing I have to compare it to are other asus motherboards with JUST the crappy realtek chip. Sounds leaps & bounds better than my non ROG AMD boards. Link the reviews when you find some.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> There's only one review and I'm still unsure. The E11 has a Core3D chip which is not as good as a discrete but far better then the crappy Realtek. I loved the Sniper3 and 5 audio chips and hence why I went w/ the E11. But now the E11 is going back so I'm looking for something else. I have four gpu(s) and so I need a board w/ a great onboard chip.
> 
> I'll keep researching before i make a decision. i just don't want to end up w/ a glorified Realtek chip like the MSI Big Bang II X79
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any further input would be appreciated


The audio on this board is pretty good, beats my a/v receiver by a longshot. It should do any headphone in the ~200 range justice.


----------



## broken pixel

AMD Hammer prototype, sure would of been nice.


----------



## wermad

Looks very promising









http://www.legitreviews.com/gigabyte-g1-killer-sniper-5-intel-z87-motherboard_126788/14

Slightly better then the impressive (IMHO) Sniper 5.


----------



## King4x4

Pfft...

Going Quad-Fire and I have a nice juicy eargasming creative ZX soundcard with a TWO dedicated headsets.... Best way to do it? PCIE Riser!

Add space where no space is avaliable!

And the TH10 got like 10 slots to pick from


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I saw something about this but I can't find it. How important is it to add the 4 pin power to the motherboard? Is it a must?


This might help
Quote:


> However, configuring multi-GPU system requires proper planning to make sure you are not driving all currents through the same cable source that might overload both your motherboard and your power supply. Driving your GPUs on separate 12V rail is a good practice that most tech savvy user already aware of. Do you realize that your motherboard might be pulling too much current from your 24Pin power source and cause system damage?
> 
> For those elite user that is looking to put in 2 or more high end, power demanding GPU card, please choose the motherboard that comes with extra 4P Molex/ 4P FDD / 6P PCI-E power socket on board and connect them with your power supply. This will prevent motherboard overloading and possibly cause damage to your system


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Pfft...
> 
> Going Quad-Fire and I have a nice juicy eargasming creative ZX soundcard with a TWO dedicated headsets.... Best way to do it? PCIE Riser!
> 
> *Add space where no space is avaliable!*
> 
> And the TH10 got like 10 slots to pick from


Very true, how are the ZX's compared to the XONAR's?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Pfft...
> 
> Going Quad-Fire and I have a nice juicy eargasming creative ZX soundcard with a TWO dedicated headsets.... Best way to do it? PCIE Riser!
> 
> Add space where no space is avaliable!
> 
> And the TH10 got like 10 slots to pick from


With the BI and p/p fans down there, i lose the last three slots. Seems like the onboard is a bit better then the Sniper5 an that's great for moi







. Waiting on refund from defective E11 and may pull the trigger on BE







.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This might help
> 
> Very true, how are the ZX's compared to the XONAR's?


Last I heard the Xonars were a wee better on the Headset Departement (A friend with one actually came with his headset and he says it's 99% the same) but when we jumped to gaming the ZX had better drivers.

Oh yah... the ZX has a dedicated headphone jack and another for the speakers... I am using one for an Audio Technica ATH-700X and the 5.1 for the Roccat Kave.

Basically I just switch with a flick of a button inside of the Creative panel.... Feels freaking epic.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> With the BI and p/p fans down there, i lose the last three slots. Seems like the onboard is a bit better then the Sniper5 an that's great for moi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Waiting on refund from defective E11 and may pull the trigger on BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You lack space wermad on top?!

You got a fat TH10!

Smack an extended cover on that monster:
http://www.caselabs-store.com/mh10-th10-top-cover-120mm-ventilated/

120mm of pure space on top!

Can fit a Monsta rad at top with push pull too


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> You lack space wermad on top?!
> 
> You got a fat TH10!
> 
> Smack an extended cover on that monster:
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/mh10-th10-top-cover-120mm-ventilated/
> 
> 120mm of pure space on top!
> 
> Can fit a Monsta rad at top with push pull too


Sits under my desk. Standard TH10 size is barely enough









Bout to order the BE. Need to find where I can order to avoid cali tax


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sits under my desk. Standard TH10 size is barely enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bout to order the BE. Need to find where I can order to avoid cali tax


Was tempted to do the top part too but now I"m being told in the fan thread I opened that I shouldn't bother with P/P on my UT-60's as it'd be a waste ( AP-15's ) so trying to decide what would go best on top of my RAD's or if I should get a pump that mounts on them.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Was tempted to do the top part too but now I"m being told in the fan thread I opened that I shouldn't bother with P/P on my UT-60's as it'd be a waste ( AP-15's ) so trying to decide what would go best on top of my RAD's or if I should get a pump that mounts on them.


Depends on the definition of waste. If you're going to go out of your way to get p/p then it isn't worth it because the performance boost is minimal, you're going to have a lot of rads anyway right?


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I understand that part, but might as well have it plugged in anyways. The question is,
> does it matter which side of the 4+4 is used?
> 
> They will only fit acording to the hex pin out. Right left either way as long as the hex pin patterns align with the female plug.
> 
> Your statement makes me want to drop a pot on my Maximus V Formula.


Raja has stated 8pin up to 4.2GHz ASUS recomended, lol. I have the NX1500 PSU that eVGA forgot to adapt a 8pin split, doh!

I overclock and bench at 5GHz plus and found on newegg a 6pin to 8pin split. Woohoo!

If you have the plug utilize it as the board will only draw the needed power from said ports. ?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Depends on the definition of waste. If you're going to go out of your way to get p/p then it isn't worth it because the performance boost is minimal, you're going to have a lot of rads anyway right?


4x ut60 480s on the way. No fans purchased yet was about to grab 32 ap15s


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Raja has stated 8pin up to 4.2GHz ASUS recomended, lol. I have the NX1500 PSU that eVGA forgot to adapt a 8pin split, doh!
> 
> I overclock and bench at 5GHz plus and found on newegg a 6pin to 8pin split. Woohoo!
> 
> If you have the plug utilize it as the board will only draw the needed power from said ports. ?


Asus was wasted when they came up with the "recommendations". "Gamer's WC Profile" is set to 1.55 on the vcore.
8pin should be enough for anything achievable on water. But yeah if it is there why not use it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 4x ut60 480s on the way. No fans purchased yet was about to grab 32 ap15s


You finally got the TH10 right?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> You finally got the TH10 right?


Yup reverse atx. Got most of my parts ordered and 3 titans now. Going acrylic too.


----------



## King4x4

Same case I have now









Reverse ATX - Pedestal and with a Big Head Wermad doesn't have! (Oh yes I beat you there







)

Current plan is to have 6 XTX480s with P/P configs with a wee noisy fans at 2200 rpm (But very silent 1600 rpm) Titan Kurkis.

Might add another XT360 and an XT120 just to push the fan profile higher then Wermads









Since I have this amount of cooling I am looking at Peltiers based cooling for the CPU.


----------



## broken pixel

Buzzed overclocking always yields better sets for some reason.









3930K @ 4.9GHz/ 2133Mhz- IBT 11 passes Very High.


IntelBurnTest v2.54
Created by AgentGOD

Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3930K CPU @ 3.20GHz
Clock Speed: 604.59 GHz (Actually @ 4.90GHz) Lulz! IBT
Active Physical Cores: 12
Total System Memory: 16323 MB

Stress Level: Very High (4096 MB)
Testing started on 12/22/2013 1:13:06 AM
Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
[01:14:15] 45.940 167.7792 3.393207e-002
[01:15:22] 45.676 168.7471 3.393207e-002
[01:16:29] 45.854 168.0925 3.393207e-002
[01:17:37] 45.809 168.2578 3.393207e-002
[01:18:44] 45.855 168.0875 3.393207e-002
[01:19:51] 45.865 168.0505 3.393207e-002
[01:20:59] 45.865 168.0533 3.393207e-002
[01:22:06] 45.886 167.9756 3.393207e-002
[01:23:14] 45.913 167.8783 3.393207e-002
[01:24:21] 45.918 167.8595 3.393207e-002
[01:25:28] 45.934 167.8014 3.393207e-002
Testing ended on 12/22/2013 1:25:29 AM
Test Result: Success.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Same case I have now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reverse ATX - Pedestal and with a Big Head Wermad doesn't have! (Oh yes I beat you there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Current plan is to have 6 XTX480s with P/P configs with a wee noisy fans at 2200 rpm (But very silent 1600 rpm) Titan Kurkis.
> 
> Might add another XT360 and an XT120 just to push the fan profile higher then Wermads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have this amount of cooling I am looking at Peltiers based cooling for the CPU.


h

Someone needs more epeen







.

Im good since I have no space on top of my desk with the 5x1 array.

Btw, don't kill the BE, it would a sad, sad, sad thing









95% sure on the rive be. Though evga classy z87 is tempting


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> h
> 
> Someone needs more epeen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Im good since I have no space on top of my desk with the 5x1 array.
> 
> Btw, don't kill the BE, it would a sad, sad, sad thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 95% sure on the rive be. Though evga classy z87 is tempting


2011 > 1150

1150 is just a cpu to have around when doing single threaded benchies


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 2011 > 1150
> 
> 1150 is just a cpu to have around when doing single threaded benchies


Indeed! ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 2011 > 1150
> 
> 1150 is just a cpu to have around when doing single threaded benchies


Z87 still has newer native features that x79 still patchworks. Its also cheaper and based on my gaming experience on par (GB z87). If you check the reviews, 4770k is right there with the ivy-e in game benches. Btw, my old 2700k/z77 matched a 3930k in Metro LL







. I already have a hexa and the haswell heat issue is annoying, so lga 2011 and its easier oc'ing are more appealling to me tbh.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Z87 still has newer native features that x79 still patchworks. Its also cheaper and based on my gaming experience on par (GB z87). If you check the reviews, 4770k is right there with the ivy-e in game benches. Btw, my old 2700k/z77 matched a 3930k in Metro LL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I already have a hexa and the haswell heat issue is annoying, so lga 2011 and its easier oc'ing are more appealling to me tbh.


Yeah x79 needed to go, it stuck around though. For most games the performance is the same, but in some newer ones the differences can be seen. On the 780ti thread a user argued with me claiming 4770k = 4930k in BF4. He ran his 3930k against his 3770k and his results proved me right.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Yeah x79 needed to go, it stuck around though. For most games the performance is the same, but in some newer ones the differences can be seen. On the 780ti thread a user argued with me claiming 4770k = 4930k in BF4. He ran his 3930k against his 3770k and his results proved me right.


Extra threads are a plus in BF3/BF4 so that's where hexacore w/ twelve threads will have an advantage over a quad w/ eight threads. Most games don't care for the extra threads so you'll see them run very close. Had a 4670k and the extra threads of a 4770k or something with more threads really comes in handy but not all the time. The higher clocks i got from that cpu may have compensated w/ higher fps for the majority of the game. Cut scenes usually where the points of where it slowed me down even at 4.9ghz.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 2011 > 1150
> 
> 1150 is just a cpu to have around when doing single threaded benchies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed! ?
Click to expand...

I lol at both of you..you must be superior since both of you have heaxa core CPU now to play BF4 and dropped $500 on a dead socket mobo ,or is it Cinabench that made you do it ?


----------



## wermad

My hexacore looks lonely. So I decided to add a campanion:



California tax sucks! But I'm hoping it ships from their Cali warehouse and it should arrive in a couple of days


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My hexacore looks lonely. So I decided to add a campanion:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> California tax sucks! But I'm hoping it ships from their Cali warehouse and it should arrive in a couple of days


California tax totally sucks... especially when I look at my paycheck in detail.








Congrats on the RIV BE. If that's a Newegg order, mine came the next day after it was shipped... and I paid for the cheapest shipping (free). Newegg HQ is like a little over an hour from us...

Anyhow... did my first acrylic bend tonight...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> California tax totally sucks... especially when I look at my paycheck in detail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on the RIV BE. If that's a Newegg order, mine came the next day after it was shipped... and I paid for the cheapest shipping (free). Newegg HQ is like a little over an hour from us...
> 
> Anyhow... did my first acrylic bend tonight...


Sweet curves E


----------



## wermad

Probably been posted:



According to the EK thread, eta is January. With EK, its probably gonna be a tad bit longer then that. Well, at least I won't have to put up with the E11 annoying fan noise.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I lol at both of you..you must be superior since both of you have heaxa core CPU now to play BF4 and dropped $500 on a dead socket mobo ,or is it Cinabench that made you do it ?


There are more flaws in the post than Obama's Stimulas Package.

1. I never claimed to be superior.
2. I never said that I bought a hexacore to play BF4.
3. Everyone else here "dropped" $500 on this board.
4. The chipset is dead not the socket.
5. Yeah because cinebench is the only bench that supports multiple threads right? Try 3d mark
6. Learn to spell


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I lol at both of you..you must be superior since both of you have heaxa core CPU now to play BF4 and dropped $500 on a dead socket mobo ,or is it Cinabench that made you do it ?


Hey you... Yah you... Get off your high horse and smell the horse ****.... Once you go 7680x1440 you gonna need every bit of CPU juice you can take to feed those hulkings GPUs.

So... Stick with ya puny 1150 and ya crappy TN 1080!


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I lol at both of you..you must be superior since both of you have heaxa core CPU now to play BF4 and dropped $500 on a dead socket mobo ,or is it Cinabench that made you do it ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey you... Yah you... Get off your high horse and smell the horse ****.... Once you go 7680x1440 you gonna need every bit of CPU juice you can take to feed those hulkings GPUs.
> 
> So... Stick with ya puny 1150.
Click to expand...

smell you upper lip "Joe" I bet it smells similar ..look at my sig

1150 is for running 2 threads ..get real


----------



## wermad

Ya'll make good points. Let's move on now









So, is the auxiliary power needed? I'll be running quad Tahitis


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I lol at both of you..you must be superior since both of you have heaxa core CPU now to play BF4 and dropped $500 on a dead socket mobo ,or is it Cinabench that made you do it ?


I can get 1276 on the newest cinbench, makes me hard. Dude I have using the x79 platform 5 months after its release and still using it. I know how to recycle my hardware to have highend epen 24/7.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I lol at both of you..you must be superior since both of you have heaxa core CPU now to play BF4 and dropped $500 on a dead socket mobo ,or is it Cinabench that made you do it ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can get 1276 on the newest cinbench, makes me hard. Dude I have using the x79 platform 5 months after its release and still using it. I know how to recycle my hardware to have *highend epen* 24/7.
Click to expand...

at list you honest but the remark about 1150 was very noobish ,I bought it (R4G +Ivy-E) for two native x16 and I liked the Ivy-E over previous gen. that's about it ,the higher scores coming more from CPU then the motherboard itself I think (you run 1276 on the black board @ 4.9 and I run 1200 on Gene @4.5 )

@erayser..I'm looking at your res. ..I'm not sure but I think that the tube inside your res. should be on the bottom (inlet -so the bubbles go up ) ,(outlet should be on the bottom as well )


----------



## Ftimster

Well.... so far I'm having nothing but good results from my board definitely noticing some power delivery differences between the extreme and the Black Edition bored all of my voltage monitoring values in BIOS are ever so slightly higher than the extreme board example: 12v 12.097 whereas my 12v on the extreme was 12.000 same for every other voltage reading all seem to be roughly .050 higher installed the board set my multiplayer 48 vcore 1.350 xmp Dominator platinum 2400 32gigs primed for 5 hours and I'm gaming







another thing of note the old extreme bored liked hi to extreme loadline calibration this board likes auto everything from what I can see and acts as if it is set to high llc on the auto setting I see absolutely zero vdroop?? well to wrap this up I'm stoked with this board I think money well spent and with new revised BIOS to come its only going to get better IMO.


----------



## asfgbdnf

why there is no BIOS update tool included in AISUITE 3, like EZ update from last gen of AISUITE.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> why there is no BIOS update tool included in AISUITE 3, like EZ update from last gen of AISUITE.


there should be little triangle -hit that


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> there should be little triangle -hit that


find it, thanks


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Last I heard the Xonars were a wee better on the Headset Departement (A friend with one actually came with his headset and he says it's 99% the same) but when we jumped to gaming the ZX had better drivers.
> 
> Oh yah... the ZX has a dedicated headphone jack and another for the speakers... I am using one for an Audio Technica ATH-700X and the 5.1 for the Roccat Kave.
> 
> Basically I just switch with a flick of a button inside of the Creative panel.... Feels freaking epic.


Yes to this & works great too.......


----------



## skupples

why are people arguing about hex vs quad in an owners club?

sigh, who would of thought that extra USB connection would of actually come in handy... I can't hookup all of my case USB's because it only has two plugs. I have to give up some front plugs so that I can plug in the Aquaero 6.


----------



## wermad

Guys, ek is releasing their block on 12/24. Us retailers will probably get them in a week or two.


----------



## skupples

WoooHoo!!! Too bad i'm setting this beast up today. Gotta have the office cleaned up before January, as the family is rolling in & my office will be over ran with the staunch children of my terrible extended family. Sigh, Both of my uncles work for the government. One is a spy catcher @ Oakridge National Laboratory, & the other is Chief something something inspector of the Afghan War. They are both totally devoid of personality & become quite rude once alcohol is consumed, which is always consumed. OOp, I already said too much.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Good to know, might as well get them before bending my acrylic next week.


----------



## necro1

new to overclock net here. just upgraded from an old evga 790i sli running a q9550 oc to 3.8GHz with ram running at 1:1 ratio at 900MHz....im in for a treat....never had sata III, usb 3.0, pci e 3.0, ddr3, or an on chip memory controller before. made the jump to SSDs (Samsung 840EVO 1TB x 2), running 64GB 2133 corsair dom plats, 1 x WD Black 4TB for main drive back ups, 2 more WD Black 4TB for storage, ax1200 corsair psu, and 3 x evga gtx570 classifieds (a little outdated but runs nicly still, planning on upgrading when i make the jump to h2o), i7 4960x cpu....currently at a stable 4.5GHz and all 64 GBs of ram running at its rated 2133MHz with relative ease. im still configuring my install so im not ready to start any serious OCing attempts . would gladly share my experiences and settings to those who are interested and will most likely have plenty of questions of my own


----------



## skupples

Welcome to the club Necro

Guess what folks? Get the system all setup, plug the PSU's in, mobo lights up, press the power button, system doesn't start. Think i'm going to cry.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necro1*
> 
> new to overclock net here. just upgraded from an old evga 790i sli running a q9550 oc to 3.8GHz with ram running at 1:1 ratio at 900MHz....im in for a treat....never had sata III, usb 3.0, pci e 3.0, ddr3, or an on chip memory controller before. made the jump to SSDs (Samsung 840EVO 1TB x 2), running 64GB 2133 corsair dom plats, 1 x WD Black 4TB for main drive back ups, 2 more WD Black 4TB for storage, ax1200 corsair psu, and 3 x evga gtx570 classifieds (a little outdated but runs nicly still, planning on upgrading when i make the jump to h2o), i7 4960x cpu....currently at a stable 4.5GHz and all 64 GBs of ram running at its rated 2133MHz with relative ease. im still configuring my install so im not ready to start any serious OCing attempts . would gladly share my experiences and settings to those who are interested and will most likely have plenty of questions of my own


WELCOME !!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Welcome to the club Necro
> 
> Guess what folks? Get the system all setup, plug the PSU's in, mobo lights up, press the power button, system doesn't start. Think i'm going to cry.


; ; ; ; ; ;

check all mobo connectors @PSU and @ mobo !!!! it is probably something simple as you had it running with the dynatron cooler.

did you try the on board power button ?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> at list you honest but the remark about 1150 was very noobish ,I bought it (R4G +Ivy-E) for two native x16 and I liked the Ivy-E over previous gen. that's about it ,the higher scores coming more from CPU then the motherboard itself I think (you run 1276 on the black board @ 4.9 and I run 1200 on Gene @4.5 )
> 
> @erayser..I'm looking at your res. ..I'm not sure but I think that the tube inside your res. should be on the bottom (inlet -so the bubbles go up ) ,(outlet should be on the bottom as well )


Not noobish at all, 2011 is an enthusiast platform. You don't need it, but it outperforms 1150 in the majority of things, and will continue to do so as newer applications start using more threads.

As for the board, users like Bestia got higher clocks on the same cpu with this board compared to another.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> at list you honest but the remark about 1150 was very noobish ,I bought it (R4G +Ivy-E) for two native x16 and I liked the Ivy-E over previous gen. that's about it ,the higher scores coming more from CPU then the motherboard itself I think (you run 1276 on the black board @ 4.9 and I run 1200 on Gene @4.5 )
> 
> @erayser..I'm looking at your res. ..I'm not sure but I think that the tube inside your res. should be on the bottom (inlet -so the bubbles go up ) ,(outlet should be on the bottom as well )
> 
> 
> 
> Not noobish at all, 2011 is an enthusiast platform. You don't need it, but it outperforms 1150 in the majority of things, and will continue to do so as newer applications start using more threads.
> 
> As for the board, users like Bestia got higher clocks on the same cpu with this board compared to another.
Click to expand...

yes very noobish and since you posted this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> h
> 
> Someone needs more epeen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Im good since I have no space on top of my desk with the 5x1 array.
> 
> Btw, don't kill the BE, it would a sad, sad, sad thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 95% sure on the rive be. Though evga classy z87 is tempting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2011 > 1150
> 
> *1150 is just a cpu to have around when doing single threaded benchies*
Click to expand...

please try to explain

EDIT; you can only see minimum gains when benching /pushing 2011 platform ,for 24/7 any none " enthusiast" platform is just as good,there for your remark was very noobish
apparently in your opinion if you don't have so called "enthusiast" platform you not really "enthusiast" right ?

















*You still think it's only good for running single threaded benches ??*


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> yes very noobish and since you posted this
> please try to explain
> 
> EDIT; you can only see minimum gains when benching /pushing 2011 platform ,for 24/7 any none " enthusiast" platform is just as good,there for your remark was very noobish
> apparently in your opinion if you don't have so called "enthusiast" platform you not really "enthusiast" right ?


What is there that needs explaining? 12 threads > 8 threads unless you're running a bench like superpi, then ipc will give you better scores.

And no 1155,1150 owners can also be enthusiasts. The 2011 platform is the high end, also known as enthusiast platform, not the mainstream.


----------



## wermad

Ya'll need to chill. *I* merely mentioned Z87 as an option for *ME* since the only thing I do is game. I don't care for benchmark e-peen supremacy.

Extreme vs Enthusiast, take it elsewhere please. That goes to all folks *still* bickering about this.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> *You still think it's only good for running single threaded benches ??*


Those scores are up there because of the gpu score, not the physics score, which is the CPU...

Also, those charts you posted work against you because literally every other score is a 2011 cpu...

Please tell me you're trolling right now


----------



## coolhandluke41

you are waist of time ,see ya


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> you are waist of time ,see ya


AKA "I see that I'm wrong and have nothing else to say so I'll just post this"

Good day


----------



## Nicz

Finally done with the build:


Full specs: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmXXWNHqmrXtdHNrMFI3cEh0MmFxcTVzV2pBbmpKMXc&usp=sharing (Price is in $ converted from danish prices, the land of taxes.)


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My 4930 at stock destroyed my 4.9 3770k on firestrike using the same 2 Titans I have. Running games while running other programs in the background still run better on a 4930k than on 4770k. Lastly there's no need to delid the new Hexas, while Haswell run notoriously hot. Sure a 4930K is double the price, but that doesn't render it useless.


----------



## DBaer

Just an observation on the sound. I have only been able to use headphones (Bose quiet Comfort) as my Klipsch BASH Ultra amp in in for a blown sub board repair. I will be testing the sound with a signal generator and a scope but for now just using my ears, which are not bad for an old fart, (I still play bass after all these years), I find that the sound is very comparable to my ASUS Xonar. With no hard numbers except listening to various frequency signals at various amplitude and looking for flat amplitude or drops at various frequencies and also then listening to various music through headphones I find that I am pleasantly surprised by the high quality of the on board sound with the RIVBE. Just my educated opinion so far however.

Now a comment on the "free game" that comes with the board, I have a simple question regarding the free Assassins creed download. The site will not let me download without a credit card. This is a free download, the check out shows $0.00 so why do I need a credit card? I can not even contact their service without a membership and for that they also want a credit card. There is no way in hell that I am giving them my cc as I am not buying anything from them. I am not price sensitive at all but.....
To me this is scam like. I do not get mad often but I am FURIOUS.
Anyone else had this issue? Am I missing something?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> WELCOME !!!
> ; ; ; ; ; ;
> 
> check all mobo connectors @PSU and @ mobo !!!! it is probably something simple as you had it running with the dynatron cooler.
> 
> did you try the on board power button ?


Ended up being a cable issue. I used an EVGA cable on the Corsair PSU... Herpa Derpa, it didn't like it @ all... Anyways, all systems are a goo! Posting from her now!

BTW, anyone else hate the new Aisuite3? I normally don't use them, but I wanted easy fan control without going into the bios, the new format is way too cryptic.


----------



## xvxvxv

my test

I use cooling Cooler Master Eisberg 240L



Good or excellent or normal ?


----------



## skupples

Voltage looks a bit high for that clock, but I don't know Ivybridge-E very well...

In other news...

Pumps @ 20%, fans off, dynatron @ 20%, 3930k @ 4.0 idling @ 30C!

Aisuite3 still garbage. Couldn't get it to change fan speeds for the life of me, sooo! un-install!


----------



## 6steven9

Wouldn't mind someone taking a look at some of my settings first OC trying to go manual haven't done a lot of stress test yet just prime95 for a couple hours.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Just an observation on the sound. I have only been able to use headphones (Bose quiet Comfort) as my Klipsch BASH Ultra amp in in for a blown sub board repair. I will be testing the sound with a signal generator and a scope but for now just using my ears, which are not bad for an old fart, (I still play bass after all these years), I find that the sound is very comparable to my ASUS Xonar. With no hard numbers except listening to various frequency signals at various amplitude and looking for flat amplitude or drops at various frequencies and also then listening to various music through headphones I find that I am pleasantly surprised by the high quality of the on board sound with the RIVBE. Just my educated opinion so far however.
> 
> Now a comment on the "free game" that comes with the board, I have a simple question regarding the free Assassins creed download. The site will not let me download without a credit card. This is a free download, the check out shows $0.00 so why do I need a credit card? I can not even contact their service without a membership and for that they also want a credit card. There is no way in hell that I am giving them my cc as I am not buying anything from them. I am not price sensitive at all but.....
> To me this is scam like. I do not get mad often but I am FURIOUS.
> Anyone else had this issue? Am I missing something?


they keep your cc on file as it is a program like steam, while i do not agree with you, i understand your point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> WELCOME !!!
> ; ; ; ; ; ;
> 
> check all mobo connectors @PSU and @ mobo !!!! it is probably something simple as you had it running with the dynatron cooler.
> 
> did you try the on board power button ?
> 
> 
> 
> Ended up being a cable issue. I used an EVGA cable on the Corsair PSU... Herpa Derpa, it didn't like it @ all... Anyways, all systems are a goo! Posting from her now!
> 
> BTW, anyone else hate the new Aisuite3? I normally don't use them, but I wanted easy fan control without going into the bios, the new format is way too cryptic.
Click to expand...

glad to hear it, i never used aisuite for intel but amd always sucked, the install itself even if you installed it it would mess up boot times ( windows load screen both win 7 and win8 although win 8 boot up win 7 shut down ) by minutes. even at 4.8-5.2ghz on my 8350.... at least they fixed that, it also seems much much better programed


----------



## wermad

The rear i/o heatsink is just garnish or does it cool something? The Ek block seems to be a two piece only.
Quote:


>


Btw, I'm going to do Darlene's mod (IT Diva) to keep the cover for the rear i/o


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The rear i/o heatsink is just garnish or does it cool something? The Ek block seems to be a two piece only.
> Btw, I'm going to do Darlene's mod (IT Diva) to keep the cover for the rear i/o


It helps to dissipate heat from the VRM sink, which is non-issue when water cooling the vrms.


----------



## wermad

Thanks Skups









Hated paying newegg Cali tax but love the fact a SoCal courier picked it up today (sunday!!!!) and its getting delivered tomorrow!


----------



## skupples




----------



## Mega Man

i couldn't imagine paying the level of taxes you all pay...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i couldn't imagine paying the level of taxes you all pay...


Who's you all? Californians? Isn't it obscene? Highest taxes + slowest, least efficient state government known to man =


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The rear i/o heatsink is just garnish or does it cool something? The Ek block seems to be a two piece only.
> Btw, I'm going to do Darlene's mod (IT Diva) to keep the cover for the rear i/o


Just wondering if there is another way other than to cut the pipe or heat it up like Diva did,
I dont have any propane torch in hand, are you going to use the same tool ?

and I saw on FB, EK will release black screws for the cpu block to go with all black theme, it sounds great but personally I would love a bit of contrast


----------



## skupples

I should of got the black plated top for my copper block.

See, it's like a Model-T... You can have it in any color you like, as long as it's black.

I saw a red motherboard, & wanted it painted black. No colors on my board, I want them all to turn blaccckkk!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i couldn't imagine paying the level of taxes you all pay...


$37 in tax for me is like overnight shipping. I paid for ground $5 but will here the next day







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Just wondering if there is another way other than to cut the pipe or heat it up like Diva did,
> I dont have any propane torch in hand, are you going to use the same tool ?
> 
> and I saw on FB, EK will release black screws for the cpu block to go with all black theme, it sounds great but personally I would love a bit of contrast


Thinking twice about it, I may just leave it alone for warranty purposes


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> You have the g2 1300 right? I just plugged the second cpu power cable in the 4 slot. Now I'm running the 4 pin and 8pin. Which connector head did you use, the right or left.. because the right seems to have 2 squares just like the motherboard connector, but both fit.
> *Lol it's pointing downwards when in a case.*


Lol, not my case!


----------



## skupples

Still waiting on an answer if either side of the 4+4 pin is the RIGHT one.


----------



## unph4zed

Anyone have issues getting multiple GPUs to work? I have 3 780s and once I get a display driver installed (331.65 or 331.93) on Win 8.1 it will no longer let me boot. The screen flashes a few times and then reboots. I can boot each card just fine individually but I cannot enable PCIE slot 1 and 2 at the same time. 1 and 3 works. 2 and 3 works. The 780 in slot 3 is new but the previous 2 were SLI'ed in a Z77 build. I'm at a loss on this one.

I exchanged the motherboard thinking that was the issue but it solved nothing.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> Anyone have issues getting multiple GPUs to work? I have 3 780s and once I get a display driver installed (331.65 or 331.93) on Win 8.1 it will no longer let me boot. The screen flashes a few times and then reboots. I can boot each card just fine individually but I cannot enable PCIE slot 1 and 2 at the same time. 1 and 3 works. 2 and 3 works. The 780 in slot 3 is new but the previous 2 were SLI'ed in a Z77 build. I'm at a loss on this one.
> 
> I exchanged the motherboard thinking that was the issue but it solved nothing.


I have 3x titans running fine right now. I also wouldn't use the newest beta drivers, they have been causing allot of issue for allot of people. Make sure you didn't slide one of the pci-e lock switches on the NE corner of the motherboard. Did you by any chance migrate a SSD/HDD over from an old system containing that OS? If so, you may need to wipe clean.


----------



## unph4zed

I'm on a Samsung 840 Pro. I unplugged all the other SSDs/HDDs. The slider is actually what I have been using to test which slots are/aren't having issues. I guess next step is to pull the watercooling all apart so I can physically switch the 780s to different slots. I've reinstalled Windows 8.1 about 5 times. One time it did actually let me enable 3 way SLI but it was short lived and refused to boot on restart. I'm doing this with 1 DIMM @ 1333.


----------



## Mega Man

so... whats considered to be a safe PLL ?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so... whats considered to be a safe PLL ?


What cpu do you have?

SB-E is up to 1.95v for the cpu PLL.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Still waiting on an answer if either side of the 4+4 pin is the RIGHT one.


Seems to be the exact same thing:


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so... whats considered to be a safe PLL ?
> 
> 
> 
> What cpu do you have?
> 
> SB-E is up to 1.95v for the cpu PLL.
Click to expand...

thanks ! 3930k


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Still waiting on an answer if either side of the 4+4 pin is the RIGHT one.


A cpu 4+4 is basically a cpu 8 pin split down the vertical middle. You still have the same design for the 12v and ground pins. The 12v (yellow) will always be on the clip side and the grounds on the non-clip side. Be careful as pcie 6 are the opposite (12v on non-clip and ground on clip). 8 pin pcie has two grounds added to one end.



Here's a little paint-shop to make a 4+4 diagram











edit: pcie:


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Got my system up and running with no problems with the memory which I was scared of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres my cpu-z validation please add me to the club
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/li4cra


CONGRERTS!!!!! AND SO SORRY FOR MISSING YOU!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My hexacore looks lonely. So I decided to add a campanion:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> California tax sucks! But I'm hoping it ships from their Cali warehouse and it should arrive in a couple of days


CONGRATS WERMAD!!! WELCOME!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necro1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WELCOME TO OCN!!!!! And [email protected]!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicz*
> 
> Finally done with the build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full specs: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmXXWNHqmrXtdHNrMFI3cEh0MmFxcTVzV2pBbmpKMXc&usp=sharing (Price is in $ converted from danish prices, the land of taxes.)


Grats! and welcome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> *Ended up being a cable issue. I used an EVGA cable on the Corsair PSU*... Herpa Derpa, it didn't like it @ all... Anyways, all systems are a goo! Posting from her now!


That worries me as I'm about to purchase some custom cables, and for the life of me can't see why that wouldn't work to begin w/ ?


----------



## LunaP

GUYS 8% D/C from PPC's right now coupon expires on the 24th!!!

HOLIDAY13-8


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Ended up being a cable issue. I used an EVGA cable on the Corsair PSU... Herpa Derpa, it didn't like it @ all... Anyways, all systems are a goo! Posting from her now! [...]
> 
> 
> 
> [...] That worries me as I'm about to purchase some custom cables, and for the life of me can't see why that wouldn't work to begin w/ ?
Click to expand...

There is not an industry standard pinout for modular PSU cables. They vary, and cables not specifically meant for your PSU should definitely not be used.

I've seen quite a few posts from people who learned that the hard way, including one recently where someone tried to use a PCIe cable from their Corsair HX850 in their Corsair AX1200, seeing as the cables look identical and are from the same brand - big mistake. They are definitely not compatible with each other. Luckily only the PSU got fried (literally fried!) and not the card that was connected to it, and Corsair did replace it even knowing it was user-error.

Don't know if they do it with all their modular PSUs, but there's a reason Corsair puts "_AX1200 only_" on all the modular cables for the AX1200. You definitely don't want to use one in a different model PSU, or vice-versa.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There is not an industry standard pinout for modular PSU cables. They vary, and cables not specifically meant for your PSU should definitely not be used.
> 
> I've seen quite a few posts from people who learned that the hard way, including one recently where someone tried to use a PCIe cable from their Corsair HX850 in their Corsair AX1200, seeing as the cables look identical and are from the same brand - big mistake. They are definitely not compatible with each other. Luckily only the PSU got fried (literally fried!) and not the card that was connected to it, and Corsair did replace it even knowing it was user-error.
> 
> Don't know if they do it with all their modular PSUs, but there's a reason Corsair puts "_AX1200 only_" on all the modular cables for the AX1200. You definitely don't want to use one in a different model PSU, or vice-versa.


was about to order these

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16369/cab-939/MaxFinder_Triple_Braided_24-Pin_Motherboard_Extension_Cable_-_25cm_-_Black_Blood_Red_MF-OBB-A24-25.html?id=MDA94RUM&mv_pc=151

along w/ the other cables as well, do you recommend against them?


----------



## wermad

Those are extensions. They work with the existing psu cables.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> was about to order these
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16369/cab-939/MaxFinder_Triple_Braided_24-Pin_Motherboard_Extension_Cable_-_25cm_-_Black_Blood_Red_MF-OBB-A24-25.html?id=MDA94RUM&mv_pc=151
> 
> along w/ the other cables as well, do you recommend against them?


'Extension' cables are fine as they just extend the board/card-side plugs, which are standardized. I suppose there could possibly be issues with some extensions for poor quality or the added length causing issues with the load put on it (any such issues would probably show up in a big way in customer reviews of said product), but there should be no worries that they are wired up correctly for the plug they are made to extend.

The issue I was pointing out was in regards to using a modular cable (the cable that plugs into the PSU) meant for use with one PSU in another, which is what it sounded like Skupples did. lol


----------



## mfranco702

Installed all drivers, but cant find this one, any particular piece of hardware im missing? not OC panel installed yet, just board and fresh windows 7 ultimate install, anyone with same issue?


----------



## ckoons1

have you tried uninstalling it and rebooting?


----------



## mfranco702

Yes. Its been like that for days...


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702*
> 
> Yes. Its been like that for days...


I also have one unknown device, but it's a unknown USB-related device. Still don't know what it is


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702*
> 
> 
> 
> Installed all drivers, but cant find this one, any particular piece of hardware im missing? not OC panel installed yet, just board and fresh windows 7 ultimate install, anyone with same issue?


I think that's the intel interface management something.........lol

Management Engine Interface............ download driver from asus

http://www.service.asus.com/#!downloads/c1wax


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> CONGRERTS!!!!! AND SO SORRY FOR MISSING YOU!!!!
> CONGRATS WERMAD!!! WELCOME!!!
> WELCOME TO OCN!!!!! And [email protected]!!
> Grats! and welcome!
> That worries me as I'm about to purchase some custom cables, and for the life of me can't see why that wouldn't work to begin w/ ?


Different pin layouts and the ferrite chokes is my guess. The extensions worked fine, just not the evga molex plugged into the corsair psu


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There is not an industry standard pinout for modular PSU cables. They vary, and cables not specifically meant for your PSU should definitely not be used.
> 
> I've seen quite a few posts from people who learned that the hard way, including one recently where someone tried to use a PCIe cable from their Corsair HX850 in their Corsair AX1200, seeing as the cables look identical and are from the same brand - big mistake. They are definitely not compatible with each other. Luckily only the PSU got fried (literally fried!) and not the card that was connected to it, and Corsair did replace it even knowing it was user-error.
> 
> Don't know if they do it with all their modular PSUs, but there's a reason Corsair puts "_AX1200 only_" on all the modular cables for the AX1200. You definitely don't want to use one in a different model PSU, or vice-versa.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was about to order these
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16369/cab-939/MaxFinder_Triple_Braided_24-Pin_Motherboard_Extension_Cable_-_25cm_-_Black_Blood_Red_MF-OBB-A24-25.html?id=MDA94RUM&mv_pc=151
> 
> along w/ the other cables as well, do you recommend against them?
Click to expand...

not to worry, all the end connectors are industry standard, however the modular cables can be what ever the oem wants then to be

IE all extensions are wired the same

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Those are extensions. They work with the existing psu cables.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702*
> 
> 
> 
> Installed all drivers, but cant find this one, any particular piece of hardware im missing? not OC panel installed yet, just board and fresh windows 7 ultimate install, anyone with same issue?


have you installed the wifi/bluetooth ?

did anyone else notice the price dropped
!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> [...] did anyone else notice the price dropped
> !!


Dropped on the RIVBE? Where?
It's still $499 on Newegg and Amazon.


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not to worry, all the end connectors are industry standard, however the modular cables can be what ever the oem wants then to be
> 
> have you installed the wifi/bluetooth ?
> 
> I thought that too & after installing said driver all was good !!


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702*
> 
> 
> 
> Installed all drivers, but cant find this one, any particular piece of hardware im missing? not OC panel installed yet, just board and fresh windows 7 ultimate install, anyone with same issue?


Hahaha. Mines been like this for 5 or 6 weeks now. I've just grown to ignore it.


----------



## Asus11

I know this sounds crazy but I have been thinking of switching to LGA2011 just for this motherboard... is that wrong?


----------



## skupples

Are you sure its not the WiFi device? W.o drivers windows wouldn't know what it is.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> I know this sounds crazy but I have been thinking of switching to LGA2011 just for this motherboard... is that wrong?


Heelll naaawww I done did it. Put my build off for 2 months just for this board.


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> I know this sounds crazy but I have been thinking of switching to LGA2011 just for this motherboard... is that wrong?


I think a lot of people in here built there new builds around this board.

I put off my build for this board.

So excited to finally order it after the holiday


----------



## Asus11

It's going to cost me just over £400 to upgrade to this board with a 4930k if I sell my stuff aswell...hmm & it's slower than my haswell -.- ..


----------



## skupples

What's slower than has well?


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> I know this sounds crazy but I have been thinking of switching to LGA2011 just for this motherboard... is that wrong?


That's what I'm doing. It's also my very first intel build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> It's going to cost me just over £400 to upgrade to this board with a 4930k if I sell my stuff aswell...hmm & it's slower than my haswell -.- ..


I guess it depends on what you want and use it for. For me. I work with graphics/ animation. All my software takes advantage of the 4930k. Which does better than the haswell with said software. I just have to figure out if the 4960 is worth the extra $400 over the 4930. If all I'm saving is 10 minutes in a 3 day image sequence rendering. The answer is NO. Still if I could catch a good sale in the next few weeks. Then Yes. Just for bragging rights.


----------



## jamiee

4.5GHz run @ 1.27v



Looking at the temps, I'm getting pretty close to maxing out what is safe with the H100i on this CPU.
Might go up to 4.6GHz just for kicks, but that's about it. (I think this is a 4.7 - 4.8GHz CPU though....)


----------



## VertKiller

So. I'm gone for a week and it took me half the night to catch up on the thread. Some interesting reading.









The good news is my ram kit and water block and D5 pump were here when I got home.

Ram - ripjaws F3-1900CL10Q-32GBBZHD

CPU block is the EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ Gold Plexi.

Unfortunately, The block looks like #hit. Very disappointed. EK put his bright silver brand on it. It really dominates the look. I thought I was suppose to be clean. Even a copper or brass or better yet gold brand would have matched the colors better and would not look so bad. I really wish I had gone with the solid copper block.







Who ever came up with that color combination for this block should be shot and pissed on. I'm not amused.



The block. Not a good image. I don't have a good camera and the lighting is not right to show how terrible that logo is. I'll try to get a better image later.


I thought I had better warn others who might be thinking about getting the gold block. I really wish I had saved the $30 on something that looks better. Like I said. The logo is a very bright silver. It dose not show up as bright as it really is in this image. Even if it looked like this image it would have been better.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> 4.5GHz run @ 1.27v
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the temps, I'm getting pretty close to maxing out what is safe with the H100i on this CPU.
> Might go up to 4.6GHz just for kicks, but that's about it. (I think this is a 4.7 - 4.8GHz CPU though....)


That's cool. Did you post the bin# of that cpu and I just missed it? I wrote down the bin of your other one to check when I buy.


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Hahaha. Mines been like this for 5 or 6 weeks now. I've just grown to ignore it.


try this.................. Management Engine Interface............ download driver from asus

it worked for me


----------



## skupples

Its a lottery for a reason bin number seems to mean less and less with each new generation.


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> That's cool. Did you post the bin# of that cpu and I just missed it? I wrote down the bin of your other one to check when I buy.


It's a 4930k: batch # 332B663


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Different pin layouts and the ferrite chokes is my guess. The extensions worked fine, just not the evga molex plugged into the corsair psu


As they said, the end that goes into the psu can be different. Never trust that end if you're gonna mix-n-match. If you're are, make sure you re-arrange the pins according the psu's end. I had a few spare cables from some old psu and they just needed some pins rearrange to make it work w/ my current Lepa. The instructions should have a diagram and what type of pin is each. Its harder w/ units like Corsair w/ all black cables where as my Lepa still has BYR etc.

I ended up sleeving my cables:


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> It's a 4930k: batch # 332B663


Thanks. Even if it does not mean as much now as they did. It's still good info to have and use.


----------



## broken pixel

Retired @ 40, thank you cryptographic currencys.


----------



## King4x4

Oooh yah!!! Mine just shipped from Amazon!

Expected delivery time... 30th of December









And then another 10 days to arrive in the middle east.

Sad thing is... Just went around localy and found the Normal RIVE for $600 O_O


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Thanks. Even if it does not mean as much now as they did. It's still good info to have and use.


You can get a very general idea from the batch number, but I think it's more important where the die came from on the wafer.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702*
> 
> 
> 
> Installed all drivers, but cant find this one, any particular piece of hardware im missing? not OC panel installed yet, just board and fresh windows 7 ultimate install, anyone with same issue?


I had that also so I just told it to update the drivers for whatever the device is and I pointed it at the ASUS files I had copied over to my data drive. It found the driver and that cured it.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> You can get a very general idea from the batch number, but I think it's more important where the die came from on the wafer.


Is there a way to know that?


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> As they said, the end that goes into the psu can be different. Never trust that end if you're gonna mix-n-match. If you're are, make sure you re-arrange the pins according the psu's end. I had a few spare cables from some old psu and they just needed some pins rearrange to make it work w/ my current Lepa. The instructions should have a diagram and what type of pin is each. Its harder w/ units like Corsair w/ all black cables where as my Lepa still has BYR etc.
> 
> I ended up sleeving my cables:


Is that a st10 for your case?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> Is that a st10 for your case?


TH10


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Is there a way to know that?


I'm not sure with the newer CPU's


----------



## kazenagi

Finally got my black edition board. Only took three weeks to get here from newegg..


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> That's what I'm doing. It's also my very first intel build.
> I guess it depends on what you want and use it for. For me. I work with graphics/ animation. All my software takes advantage of the 4930k. Which does better than the haswell with said software. *I just have to figure out if the 4960 is worth the extra $400 over the 4930*. If all I'm saving is 10 minutes in a 3 day image sequence rendering. The answer is NO. Still if I could catch a good sale in the next few weeks. Then Yes. Just for bragging rights.


Most will say no , others will debate, I finally got to ask our Intel guy @ Drill last weekend, and he confirmed that the X chips are the first sets taken from the center of the wafer. That's about it. If you're extremely paranoid and or for the bragging rights or both, I grab the X mainly for the extra chance of a higher clock, my 980X did great on a CL but there could always be lower grade wafers as well , there's just not enough evidence to support much yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> As they said, the end that goes into the psu can be different. Never trust that end if you're gonna mix-n-match. If you're are, make sure you re-arrange the pins according the psu's end. I had a few spare cables from some old psu and they just needed some pins rearrange to make it work w/ my current Lepa. The instructions should have a diagram and what type of pin is each. Its harder w/ units like Corsair w/ all black cables where as my Lepa still has BYR etc.
> 
> I ended up sleeving my cables:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any site you recommend then where I can get Black/Red cables done, I see some on Frozen but the ones I initially posted looked amazing! May have to go w/ FCPU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Oooh yah!!! Mine just shipped from Amazon!
> 
> Expected delivery time... 30th of December
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then another 10 days to arrive in the middle east.
> 
> Sad thing is... Just went around localy and found the Normal RIVE for $600 O_O


Jeez, and are you deployed?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Finally got my black edition board. Only took three weeks to get here from newegg..


Grats and welcome!!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Oooh yah!!! Mine just shipped from Amazon!
> 
> Expected delivery time... 30th of December
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then another 10 days to arrive in the middle east.
> 
> Sad thing is... Just went around localy and found the Normal RIVE for $600 O_O


Mine came in XD . Ordered Sunday @2am, arrived today @12pm







. I'll be testing mine soon


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mine came in XD . Ordered Sunday @2am, arrived today @12pm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll be testing mine soon


I'm HOPING to get mine started this week, I've begun the pics for the build log but stopped after PSU , CPU , RAM , and case...first order of WC parts + my acrylic kit arrived today, 2 more should be arriving tomorrow (32x GT AP-15's + Aquareos 6 ) and ( 4x UT60's and Raystorm acrylic CPU)

All thats left is to decide on a D5 pump for my monsoon bay res and order them together, and maybe get a res for the center of the case.

Afterwards filters, PSU cables. and maybe some better stuff for cable management.

Not sure if I should start up the build log now and get the info in or wait a few more days.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm HOPING to get mine started this week, I've begun the pics for the build log but stopped after PSU , CPU , RAM , and case...first order of WC parts + my acrylic kit arrived today, 2 more should be arriving tomorrow (32x GT AP-15's + Aquareos 6 ) and ( 4x UT60's and Raystorm acrylic CPU)
> 
> All thats left is to decide on a D5 pump for my monsoon bay res and order them together, and maybe get a res for the center of the case.
> 
> Afterwards filters, PSU cables. and maybe some better stuff for cable management.
> 
> Not sure if I should start up the build log now and get the info in or wait a few more days.


start it up now to build up hype, i know ill sub early


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> start it up now to build up hype, i know ill sub early


K do I do it in intel build logs or case labs thread? I see people in both.

Also still awaiting on my metroid figures to arrive but they won't get put in till after the main build is done + need to bend some acrylic sheets for platforms etc.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> K do I do it in intel build logs or case labs thread? I see people in both.
> 
> Also still awaiting on my metroid figures to arrive but they won't get put in till after the main build is done + need to bend some acrylic sheets for platforms etc.


i did mine in the case mods build logs section lol.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Jeez, and are you deployed?
> Grats and welcome!!!!


Nope... I live there


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Is there a way to know that?


Yes, batch number plus the number printed into the PCB itself, that ends with AXXXX. The XXXX, as far as I know refers to where on the wafer, with smaller numbers typically being closer to the middle (or at least, in my limited experience of about 20 SKT2011 CPUs now, the lower the number there, the better the chip OCs).

So, batch number means little. You need to see the CPU in person, look in box window, and check the number on the CPU PCB. As far as I can tell, up to this point, as batches get higher in number, CPUs are getting a bit better too, but that's just overall each successive batch seems a bit better than the last.

If you need pictures to illustrate what I'm talking about, let me know.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamiee*
> 
> 4.5GHz run @ 1.27v
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the temps, I'm getting pretty close to maxing out what is safe with the H100i on this CPU.
> Might go up to 4.6GHz just for kicks, but that's about it. (I think this is a 4.7 - 4.8GHz CPU though....)


Hopefully when I get mine built I can at at least get 4.4-4.5 on the h100i. We shall see.


----------



## skupples

I'm still trying to get aisuite 3.0 to work... Can't get it to change fan speeds. It reads the PWM fan hooked up to the CPU header, but changing the slider doesn't do a damn thing. I'm going to have to get a PWM extension & hook the Dynatron straight up to the Aquaero6.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm still trying to get aisuite 3.0 to work... Can't get it to change fan speeds. It reads the PWM fan hooked up to the CPU header, but changing the slider doesn't do a damn thing. I'm going to have to get a PWM extension & hook the Dynatron straight up to the Aquaero6.


Speaking of PWM

Took your advice since you have the Aquaeros 6 and I'm getting mine in tomorrow.



I believe this will be my FINAL order. Though I just realized I missed a res tube lol... oh well. for the meantime I can finally get to building, once it all arrives.


----------



## skupples

Iv'e heard nothing but bad things when it comes to bay res + tube res. Something about system bleeding being an utter PITA. Not sure what B was talking about when it comes to DDC. I run both of my @ ALMOST 100% 24/7. They have been doing so for almost 9 months now, it's only loud when air is still flowing through the system. Though, loud is subjective... My new system is 9 inches from my left ear, & I don't find it overbearing.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yes, batch number plus the number printed into the PCB itself, that ends with AXXXX. The XXXX, as far as I know refers to where on the wafer, with smaller numbers typically being closer to the middle (or at least, in my limited experience of about 20 SKT2011 CPUs now, the lower the number there, the better the chip OCs).
> 
> So, batch number means little. You need to see the CPU in person, look in box window, and check the number on the CPU PCB. As far as I can tell, up to this point, as batches get higher in number, CPUs are getting a bit better too, but that's just overall each successive batch seems a bit better than the last.
> 
> If you need pictures to illustrate what I'm talking about, let me know.


I hate to ask and show how little I know about these things but an image would really help. Thanks.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Iv'e heard nothing but bad things when it comes to bay res + tube res. Something about system bleeding being an utter PITA. Not sure what B was talking about when it comes to DDC. I run both of my @ ALMOST 100% 24/7. They have been doing so for almost 9 months now, it's only loud when air is still flowing through the system. Though, loud is subjective... My new system is 9 inches from my left ear, & I don't find it overbearing.


I'm grabbing a reg tube res though. Is that ok the bay res will be w/ the pump.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm grabbing a reg tube res though. Is that ok the bay res will be w/ the pump.


That's what I mean. Iv'e read running tube & bay res in the same system is really hard to work with. You are going to need to ask around to get better information than that though, as I haven't dealt with it my self.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> I hate to ask and show how little I know about these things but an image would really help. Thanks.


I hope this picture helps show where the real info is:



Those are the numbers we need to collect...batch number tables are useless, IMHO. Of my 3 4960X chips, batch numbers are all the same, but the clocking is truly different. But those numbers I highlighted, and the "QR" code thing contain the real information, for sure.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's what I mean. Iv'e read running tube & bay res in the same system is really hard to work with. You are going to need to ask around to get better information than that though, as I haven't dealt with it my self.


Crap I just ordered the XSPC photon 270 res ;__; and it just shipped...ffffff guess I'll see how it turns out.


----------



## wermad




----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Welcome to the club brotha!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to the club brotha!!!


Thank you







Still a while away from getting this sorted.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, I was in the first batch of Newegg orders and I still haven't had a chance to turn it on yet =\


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol, I was in the first batch of Newegg orders and I still haven't had a chance to turn it on yet =\


Got mine in a bit over 24 hours







. I've fired mine up but I'm still not there yet. Could be a cpu issue. Going to the local electronic store to pick up a cpu to test. Luckily, they offer a 15 day return window.


----------



## kpoeticg

Man, people like you and skupples make me feel like an absolute moron sometimes

I can't believe it never even crossed my mind to do that just so I could at least test it real quick


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Man, people like you and skupples make me feel like an absolute moron sometimes
> I can't believe it never even crossed my mind to do that just so I could at least test it real quick










Its hard to find someone locally who can let me borrow something for my rig. Most of the ppl I know I can get access to their rigs have ddr2, amd or old intel platforms. Not hating but not useful when trouble shooting. I have Fry's electronic store about 10 minutes away. I can return it as long as its not missing the upc and receipt.


----------



## kpoeticg

Fry's, yet one more thing I miss about living in L.A =\


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Got mine in a bit over 24 hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've fired mine up but I'm still not there yet. Could be a cpu issue. Going to the local electronic store to pick up a cpu to test. Luckily, they offer a 15 day return window.


I/O panel or no?
I see you are sliding away from the green world theme hey?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I/O panel or no?
> I see you are sliding away from the green world theme hey?


50x CM R4 green leds, neon green sleeve, and brand new FrozenQ quad helix green res









I'm testing the board outside right now. I can't seem to get into windows. It crashes right away. I try reformatting and it crashes on the windows install screen. I tested a new set of Vengeance and all four of my 7970s. Only thing left to test is another cpu at this point.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I hope this picture helps show where the real info is:
> 
> Those are the numbers we need to collect...batch number tables are useless, IMHO. Of my 3 4960X chips, batch numbers are all the same, but the clocking is truly different. But those numbers I highlighted, and the "QR" code thing contain the real information, for sure.


I can't see what the smaller highlight is. Another number?

Thanks for this. I hope more will post theirs so we can get a better chance of seeing a pattern

Rep +1 and as an extra bonus. I promise not to make fun of the Oilers for 1 month.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> I can't see what the smaller highlight is. Another number?
> 
> Thanks for this. I hope more will post theirs so we can get a better chance of seeing a pattern
> 
> Rep +1 and as an extra bonus. I promise not to make fun of the Oilers for 1 month.


HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

HA.

Those "blocks" are a matrix of boxes that are read by some sort of "code reader" like a "QR" code is read and those boxes of that whatever you want to call it are used for internal tracking. AMD uses similar stuff too:



How to decipher that though....I haz no clue. The one thing I can add toward batch number stuff is that if you EVER see an Intel chip with a "T" on the box at the end of the batch...but the CPU doesn't have that "T"...BUY IT NAOW!!!!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I hope this picture helps show where the real info is:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are the numbers we need to collect...batch number tables are useless, IMHO. Of my 3 4960X chips, batch numbers are all the same, but the clocking is truly different. But those numbers I highlighted, and the "QR" code thing contain the real information, for sure.


FWIW That number on the PCB is the same as the serial number on my box.
Mine ends in A0853, so I'm hoping that's pretty good?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol, I was in the first batch of Newegg orders and I still haven't had a chance to turn it on yet =\


HA! Same and I got my last order in for today, managed to get them to add the photon to the order. With that the only thing remaining is fittings, which I have a few that arrived and liking the colors so I"ll await for them to get back in stock.

Sadly just got an email saying my acrylic tubs just shipped, which I ordered over a week ago yet it stated they were in stock







so guess I'll be waiting after Xmas to build. With the exception of putting the AP-15's on the UT60's and w/e else I can get done.

Soon as I get time I'll do a write up and get the build log started. All I have are pics atm.


----------



## mfranco702

Looked for the driver automatically in the support cd, turned out to be AMDA00 Interface, now looking good.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> [...] did anyone else notice the price dropped
> !!
> 
> 
> 
> Dropped on the RIVBE? Where?
> It's still $499 on Newegg and Amazon.
Click to expand...

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=90951

470 ~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nunzi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not to worry, all the end connectors are industry standard, however the modular cables can be what ever the oem wants then to be
> 
> have you installed the wifi/bluetooth ?
> 
> I thought that too & after installing said driver all was good !!
> 
> 
> 
> see below
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> I know this sounds crazy but I have been thinking of switching to LGA2011 just for this motherboard... is that wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> no absolutely not !
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Are you sure its not the WiFi device? W.o drivers windows wouldn't know what it is.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> +12... or the blue tooth, and yes twelve... as 1-11 is not good enough !
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Finally got my black edition board. Only took three weeks to get here from newegg..
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> welcome to you and all !!!
Click to expand...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> [...] did anyone else notice the price dropped
> !!
> 
> 
> 
> Dropped on the RIVBE? Where?
> It's still $499 on Newegg and Amazon.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=90951
> 
> 470 ~
> welcome to you and all !!!
Click to expand...

LOL!



^ ... translation ... v



Or, you could just order from Newegg or Amazon for $30 more.


----------



## Mega Man

i didnt say it .......... :x


----------



## skupples




----------



## wermad

provantage also has them in back order ~$470. It will ship from a Cali warehouse so be warned they will add Cali tax on top of the shipping. It would have been ~$50 cheaper w/ them vs the egg but eta was like 3 weeks







. I'll gladly pay the tax to get it delivered in less then two days


----------



## _REAPER_

I just finished my rebuild let me know what you think


----------



## wermad

Got my BE up and running. Turns out i Have a bad hexacore cpu as everything was uber silky smooth and fast w/ a temporary 4820K. Gonna try to get the hexacore rma'd. So far, 32gb of Corsair Vengeance 1600 (dual 16gb-4x4gb kits) is working fine on the stock mb settings. Fina step is to test my gpu and I have a mb to return and sell later on (hoping







).

BE is a uber quick! I'll play around with it for the next few days as I have a couple of weeks to return the quad core







.


----------



## htension

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I just finished my rebuild let me know what you think


Sorry about the off-topic, but what are the SLI connectors fittings that you are using in your 3-way SLI ?

I'm also using a 3-way SLI with Hydro Cooper water blocks but the space between blocks are to tight. I have 2 sets of SLI connector here (one of koolance and another one from Enzotech) and both are too long for the gap between the blocks.

A picture to illustrate what I'm saying:



Both were supposed to be 1 slot space sli fitting connector, but Hydro Cooper block is to thick....

Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *htension*
> 
> Sorry about the off-topic, but what are the SLI connectors fittings that you are using in your 3-way SLI ?
> 
> I'm also using a 3-way SLI with Hydro Cooper water blocks but the space between blocks are to tight. I have 2 sets of SLI connector here (one of koolance and another one from Enzotech) and both are too long for the gap between the blocks.
> 
> A picture to illustrated what I'm saying:
> 
> 
> 
> Both were supposed to be 1 slot space sli fitting connector, but Hydro Cooper block is to thick....
> 
> Thanks


They look like swiftech but I'm not 100% sure:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_341&products_id=33971

There's an EVGA/Swiftech bridge but I'm not sure if its compatible w/ the 780/Titan series (there's a 7900 and 680 one).


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *htension*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I just finished my rebuild let me know what you think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the off-topic, but what are the SLI connectors fittings that you are using in your 3-way SLI ?
> 
> I'm also using a 3-way SLI with Hydro Cooper water blocks but the space between blocks are to tight. I have 2 sets of SLI connector here (one of koolance and another one from Enzotech) and both are too long for the gap between the blocks.
> 
> A picture to illustrate what I'm saying:
> 
> 
> 
> Both were supposed to be 1 slot space sli fitting connector, but Hydro Cooper block is to thick....
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Since the HYRDO Coppers are made by Swiftech I went ahead and purchased their SLI Connectors


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Since the HYRDO Coppers are made by Swiftech I went ahead and purchased their SLI Connectors


A little off topic here:
Would you mind giving some feedback on the 1500w psu? I'm considering upgrading to one, if it runs your system well, it should do better with 2 titans. I've been considering it since I saw the 5 year warrenty version for 350. For comparison, I have a seasonic x1250, and my system can run it ragged when folding.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *htension*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I just finished my rebuild let me know what you think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the off-topic, but what are the SLI connectors fittings that you are using in your 3-way SLI ?
> 
> I'm also using a 3-way SLI with Hydro Cooper water blocks but the space between blocks are to tight. I have 2 sets of SLI connector here (one of koolance and another one from Enzotech) and both are too long for the gap between the blocks.
> 
> A picture to illustrate what I'm saying:
> 
> 
> 
> Both were supposed to be 1 slot space sli fitting connector, but Hydro Cooper block is to thick....
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Since the HYRDO Coppers are made by Swiftech I went ahead and purchased their SLI Connectors
Click to expand...

yep, i was gonna say that, on that note though i love their block, just look so freakinging good !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Since the HYRDO Coppers are made by Swiftech I went ahead and purchased their SLI Connectors
> 
> 
> 
> A little off topic here:
> Would you mind giving some feedback on the 1500w psu? I'm considering upgrading to one, if it runs your system well, it should do better with 2 titans. I've been considering it since I saw the 5 year warrenty version for 350. For comparison, I have a seasonic x1250, and my system can run it ragged when folding.
Click to expand...

talk to shilka !!!!!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *htension*
> 
> Sorry about the off-topic, but what are the SLI connectors fittings that you are using in your 3-way SLI ?
> 
> I'm also using a 3-way SLI with Hydro Cooper water blocks but the space between blocks are to tight. I have 2 sets of SLI connector here (one of koolance and another one from Enzotech) and both are too long for the gap between the blocks.
> 
> A picture to illustrate what I'm saying:
> 
> 
> 
> Both were supposed to be 1 slot space sli fitting connector, but Hydro Cooper block is to thick....
> 
> Thanks


Man, I love how those Hydro Copper blocks look.


----------



## asfgbdnf

I'm confused, when I set VCCSA to 1.135v, the actual reading varies from 1.123v to 1.211v and average is 1.164v (averaged over 12+hrs) according to HWINFO v4.31-2063.
My old R4E with last gen of DIGIpower+ is able to provide more stable voltage. I'm confused why the voltage has such wide variations with the state-of-the-art DIGIpower+?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Unstable ram has never caused random reboots for me, unstable ram causes bsod.
> 
> No one has still answered why the reboots never occur in games or benchmarks when the system is under load, only on the desktop or when watching videos. I had my display driver crash yesrerday from watching a video on the beta drivers...
> 
> Also, all of my digi settigs were default and I still got the random crashes.


I'm now having the same issues, random blue screens while on the desktop even with everything on default and 327 GeForce drivers. What could be wrong?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

EK R4BE blocks are now in stock on EK's website.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/intel-x79.html

I just placed an order for some acetal/copper ones and should be here by Friday!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> EK R4BE blocks are now in stock on EK's website.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/intel-x79.html
> 
> I just placed an order for some acetal/copper ones and should be here by Friday!


No csq crop circle


----------



## King4x4

Hows the new EVGA hydros VRM temps?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> No csq crop circle


Fixed it for you.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Fixed it for you.


I've embraced crop circles : CPU, ram x2, gpu x4, ddc top & pending MB blocks







. Acetal is more accepting then frosted IMHO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I'm confused, when I set VCCSA to 1.135v, the actual reading varies from 1.123v to 1.211v and average is 1.164v (averaged over 12+hrs) according to HWINFO v4.31-2063.
> My old R4E with last gen of DIGIpower+ is able to provide more stable voltage. I'm confused why the voltage has such wide variations with the state-of-the-art DIGIpower+?


whats your llc set to ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> EK R4BE blocks are now in stock on EK's website.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/intel-x79.html
> 
> I just placed an order for some acetal/copper ones and should be here by Friday!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No csq crop circle
Click to expand...

YAY !


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> YAY !


Eta 1/2/2014


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> whats your llc set to ?


VCCSA LLC set to 'regular', which means no voltage compensation presumably.
This happens to VTT voltage reading as well.


----------



## skupples

stressing @ 4.6 @ 1.4v w/ 2333 ramzorz, strap 166... Starting to feel like a decent 3930k!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Hows the new EVGA hydros VRM temps?


probably just as terrible as before, avoiding hydro coppers forever.


----------



## _REAPER_

I am currently at 4.5ghz at 1.35VCORE I feel like I can go lower on the vcore though ram is stable at 2133mhz


----------



## _REAPER_

Stable at 4.5ghz 2133mhz mem


----------



## rabidz7

No love for AMD in here?


----------



## szeged

but the rive-be is an intel board?


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Unstable ram has never caused random reboots for me, unstable ram causes bsod.
> 
> No one has still answered why the reboots never occur in games or benchmarks when the system is under load, only on the desktop or when watching videos. I had my display driver crash yesrerday from watching a video on the beta drivers...
> 
> Also, all of my digi settigs were default and I still got the random crashes.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm now having the same issues, random blue screens while on the desktop even with everything on default and 327 GeForce drivers. What could be wrong?
Click to expand...

I posted the questions in another reply ahead of this one.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> No love for AMD in here?


I think one out of 40 members has AMD gpu's!

Hrrmm... I should probably go edumacate my self on VCCSA & VTT & those other voltages

btw, what the hell is the point of that setting that restarts the computer when it detects base clock fluctuation


----------



## striderstone

Just bought the EK waterblock







Now I just have to buy the board to upgrade from my ASrock Extreme 11!
I'm super excited!


----------



## asfgbdnf

is it still worth buying gtx titan at this stage? 780ti is slightly powerful than titan and much cheaper.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> is it still worth buying gtx titan at this stage? 780ti is slightly powerful than titan and much cheaper.


Depends on ur intentions. Also what card are you intending to upgrade from. Visit the titan club were still beating the ti lol.

Unless ur doing insane resolutions with high settings in surround then no stick with the ti.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> is it still worth buying gtx titan at this stage? 780ti is slightly powerful than titan and much cheaper.


I would only buy titans if used, still warrantied, from the likes of EVGA. Can find them for less than a Ti in that situation, you can also crank the voltag waaaaay up. Seems to take about .1 more volts on a titan to keep up with the 780Ti clocks though.

People keep talking about a 6gb kingpin, but can never show me this supposed proof where an EVGA rep said it would be happening. Which I find strange since Jacob shot it down unequivocally.


----------



## striderstone

I think i'm going to stick with my 4x GTX 680 Classified Hydro Coppers until the 800 series comes out


----------



## skupples

I'm feeling the same. I'm sticking with tri-titan until maxwell flagship refresher.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

For people with issues please answer these questions.

Few questions

1. What is your vtt voltage
2. What is your vcsaa voltage
3. I'm assuming your not running offset voltage. if you are what is the current setting.
4. What are your digipower settings.
5. Do you have pll overvoltage enabled?
6. What is your pll setting.
7. Do you have pll termination enabled?
8. Do you have spread spectrum on or off.
9. What mode is Rampage tweak in dram settings?
10. What's your current Vcore? (if not running offset)
11. What are your cpu power settings? auto or a certain percentage?
12. What speed is your ram rated and what speed are you running it at now and what size?


----------



## skupples

Once I figure out how/when to adjust those things i'll answer your questions! reading the 3930k thread like the bible right now.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Once I figure out how/when to adjust those things i'll answer your questions! reading the 3930k thread like the bible right now.


I used Broken Pixel's settings and hit 5GHz on all 6 cores on 1.408v, I can even link a cpu-z validation. Try to go back and find those, you'll get big overclocks easy.


----------



## skupples

that's cheating though. I need to educate my self on what these values are, what they mean, how they work, & how/when to adjust them. I'm tired of blind overclocking. Been doing it for too long. This is my first threaded CPU, iv'e always stuck to the i5 series when dealing with intel. Those were much simpler to OC.

oh, & I REALLY hate the new aisuite 3.0... They did a major disservice by simplifying it to this degree.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that's cheating though. I need to educate my self on what these values are, what they mean, how they work, & how/when to adjust them. I'm tired of blind overclocking. Been doing it for too long. This is my first threaded CPU, iv'e always stuck to the i5 series when dealing with intel. Those were much simpler to OC.


I commend your efforts, I had had enough of trying to do it myself when I changed a couple of things, like LLC and current ability to high and 180% and the computer wouldn't post. After about 5 clear CMOS restarts, I figured it was time to turn to someone with more experience than myself. Especially considering the auto settings are configured for Ivy-e. Although, thanks to work, I have only about 3 hours a week to tinker so I was tired of wasting that time playing with the UEFI instead of gaming. Good luck with the OC.


----------



## LunaP

Ugh I think I'm in the same boat as Szed, USPS stopped updating my overnight package 3 days ago. Showing NY as the last area.

Another package which was set for overnight says its supposed to deliver today in AZ but it shows its in TN and just left it @ 9:31am this morning.

I wish these companies would choose alternate versions, though it depends on time too, 1 was from PPC the other was from FCPU.


----------



## cadaveca

OK, so here's my stable settings, 4625 MHz and 2666 C10 ram, bios options included:

BIOS:

 
 
 


AIDA64 Memory bench, Memtweakit and sensor readings:

 



3DMark Screenshot:


3DMark Benchmark Score links:

Vantage:

http://www.3dmark.com/3dmv/4906158

3DMark11:

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7710350

3DMARK:

Icestorm: http://www.3dmark.com/is/1327963 Cloudgate: http://www.3dmark.com/cg/1187403 FireStrike: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1389283


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ugh I think I'm in the same boat as Szed, USPS stopped updating my overnight package 3 days ago. Showing NY as the last area.
> 
> Another package which was set for overnight says its supposed to deliver today in AZ but it shows its in TN and just left it @ 9:31am this morning.
> 
> I wish these companies would choose alternate versions, though it depends on time too, 1 was from PPC the other was from FCPU.


I've been meaning to ask, would you mind adding my build log to the OP, it's in my sig.


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> For people with issues please answer these questions.
> 
> Few questions
> 
> 1. What is your vtt voltage
> 2. What is your vcsaa voltage
> 3. I'm assuming your not running offset voltage. if you are what is the current setting.
> 4. What are your digipower settings.
> 5. Do you have pll overvoltage enabled?
> 6. What is your pll setting.
> 7. Do you have pll termination enabled?
> 8. Do you have spread spectrum on or off.
> 9. What mode is Rampage tweak in dram settings?
> 10. What's your current Vcore? (if not running offset)
> 11. What are your cpu power settings? auto or a certain percentage?
> 12. What speed is your ram rated and what speed are you running it at now and what size?


what is the stock volts for vccsa ? I have it set @ 1.00 volt ram is @ 2133 .......ran Intel burn test max, 10runs


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nunzi*
> 
> what is the stock volts for vccsa ? I have it set @ 1.00 volt ram is @ 2133 .......ran Intel burn test max, 10runs


stock for VCCSA varies from chip to chip. I have one chip @ 0.895V, one @ 0.920V, and third @ 0.925V.

Good general idea to set 1.05 V for 2133-2400, and over 2400, 1.15 V and up.


----------



## skupples

USPS is fail.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Depends on ur intentions. Also what card are you intending to upgrade from. Visit the titan club were still beating the ti lol.
> 
> Unless ur doing insane resolutions with high settings in surround then no stick with the ti.


I have a gtx titan, thinking about buying one extra video card


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> stock for VCCSA varies from chip to chip. I have one chip @ 0.895V, one @ 0.920V, and third @ 0.925V.
> 
> Good general idea to set 1.05 V for 2133-2400, and over 2400, 1.15 V and up.


Thanks Bro!


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> OK, so here's my stable settings, 4625 MHz and 2666 C10 ram, bios options included:
> 
> BIOS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AIDA64 Memory bench, Memtweakit and sensor readings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3DMark Screenshot:
> 
> 
> 3DMark Benchmark Score links:
> 
> Vantage:
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dmv/4906158
> 
> 3DMark11:
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7710350
> 
> 3DMARK:
> 
> Icestorm: http://www.3dmark.com/is/1327963 Cloudgate: http://www.3dmark.com/cg/1187403 FireStrike: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1389283


VTT = 1.25V is not safe for 24/7 use presumably. VCCSA=1.15v with LLC set to 'high' I bet it would easily go beyond 1.2 during run-time. High VCCSA(>1.2v) would degrade your CPU overtime.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nunzi*
> 
> Thanks Bro!


No problem, man, I hope to see some screenshots from you soon!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I have a gtx titan, thinking about buying one extra video card


Sell it and get a couple of 780's.







BTW, I hope you saw the BIOS screenshots I finally uploaded for ya.









EDIT: I guess you did.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> No problem, man, I hope to see some screenshots from you soon!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sell it and get a couple of 780's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I hope you saw the BIOS screenshots I finally uploaded for ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I guess you did.


Thanks, bro, for your BIOS setting. I'm still tweaking and testing my system. I've managed to survive random reboot even when VCCSA LLC is set to 'regular'.






















I dont hammer VCCSA voltage as I know high VCCSA will degrade my chip overtime


----------



## skupples

Still trying to figure out the point of the "clockgen full reset" setting.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Thanks, bro, for your BIOS setting. I'm still tweaking and testing my system. I've managed to survive random reboot even when VCCSA LLC is set to 'regular'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont hammer VCCSA voltage as I know high VCCSA will degrade my chip overtime


I can try to lower voltages, but since I got my chips from Intel directly and they are ES, I am not as concerned about that as I would be with a chip I spent over $1000 on. VTT @ 1.25V, plus some tertiary timing changes, were what solved the random reboots problems for me. I am not 1000% finished my OC, but those are totally stable and re-boot free for a week now through multiple P95 sessions over 8 hours, gaming, browsing, and review work. I still plan on doing some memory clocking and such too ,but for now, I have what I need to get the review finished, so that's my first priority...after Christmas.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Still trying to figure out the point of the "clockgen full reset" setting.


It's for when adjust BCLK under cold...not for mere mortals like us. Setting to disabled makes the boot process easier if you are just changing BCLK a couple MHz. The full shutdown required for a clockgen reset can make coldbug bite your bum, otherwise.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I can try to lower voltages, but since I got my chips from Intel directly and they are ES, I am not as concerned about that as I would be with a chip I spent over $1000 on. VTT @ 1.25V, plus some tertiary timing changes, were what solved the random reboots problems for me. I am not 1000% finished my OC, but those are totally stable and re-boot free for a week now through multiple P95 sessions over 8 hours, gaming, browsing, and review work. I still plan on doing some memory clocking and such too ,but for now, I have what I need to get the review finished, so that's my first priority...after Christmas.


Maybe, next step you could try overclock the memory to command rate = 1T


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Maybe, next step you could try overclock the memory to command rate = 1T


I could do that now, but the benefit compared to things needed to change aren't worthwhile for me. For benching, sure, but then I'd also be pushing 5.0, too.







I like to push the limits for 24/7, but not everywhere. lol.


----------



## skupples

so leave it disabled.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> so leave it disabled.


Well, no.

So, the BCLK dividers will kick in automatically when you adjust BCLK, unless you have manually set the divider. As you boot, the BCLK is "trained" to what you have set; a combination of the BCLK and the divider (offsets and such are enabled, if I understand correctly). Setting Clockgen RESET to disabled disables that training process, which, if moving 1-3 MHz, isn't needed, really. But go too far, and you'll need that reset anyway, so I feel it is best for 24/7 clocking to leave it enabled.

That re-training for BCLK change needs a full shutdown. If you change the divider to 125 MHz, and reboot, you'll see that the board powers up, then shuts down quickly, then moves on to the normal POST process. In effect, you disable that first reboot, which can make coldbug appear if you are running LN2.

I hope that makes sense....


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> No love for AMD in here?


Switched from triple 780s to quad Lightnings 7970s to run 5x1 Eyefinity. Which, you can't do w/ Nvidia (nor 3x2). Its been pretty smooth so far w/ the gpu(s), though having older gen, the drivers are mature pretty substantial. I sold the 780s right before the huge Nvidia price drop. I got tired of the Nvidia pricing scheme and i was pissed they didn't officially allow 4-way or I would have stayed and gottent three 1440 monitors. Anyways, Nvidia is known for poor scaling once you push beyond two cards so I felt like I was wasting my money here. The extra cash i got from the sale I bought a couple of more monitors to push 5x1 6000x1920 keeping my lovely dells







. I've only gotten a chance to just boot and install the os w/ the BE. i'm going to wait for the EK block to hit (circles version







).

King4x4 is pending a quad R9 290X build and possibly a 3x2/5x1 1440 90hz setup (







). He's also coming off triple 780s.

tempted to sell the 7970s as prices took a hike recently on the HD7000 series







.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> tempted to sell the 7970s as prices took a hike recently on the HD7000 series
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Me too, my 7970 DCUII and Matrix are getting a bit long in the tooth, but still meet my needs for gaming pretty well. I have a single 780, and am interested in running three cards, while not being sure what card to run...this board deserves some killer cards and a nice water loop!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Me too, my 7970 DCUII and Matrix are getting a bit long in the tooth, but still meet my needs for gaming pretty well. I have a single 780, and am interested in running three cards, while not being sure what card to run...this board deserves some killer cards and a nice water loop!


I would recommend get two. three is icing on the cake but you really have to start pushing three screens to somewhat justify the 3rd. I see a lot of guys w/ two 780s/Titans/TIs running three monitors. I would start off there and see how it goes.

I wanted to jump on the 290X bandwagon but I have yet to see a card with three or more dp and a waterblock for it. Still, my cards are pushed a couple of games w/ great results at 6000x1920. Only bummer is that they suck up a lot of power, and the 290X too. So I ended up getting a larger psu.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I would recommend get two. three is icing on the cake but you really have to start pushing three screens to somewhat justify the 3rd. I see a lot of guys w/ two 780s/Titans/TIs running three monitors. I would start off there and see how it goes.
> 
> I wanted to jump on the 290X bandwagon but I have yet to see a card with three or more dp and a waterblock for it. Still, my cards are pushed a couple of games w/ great results at 6000x1920. Only bummer is that they suck up a lot of power, and the 290X too. So I ended up getting a larger psu.


Thanks very much for the thoughts!

I already have 3x U2413M monitors for Eyefinity, but 2x 7970 isn't enough grunt for me. I have been an Eyefinity user since Win7/5870's launched.









That lack of power has me using a 3008WFP right now, actually, and the crap DVI ports on this monitor died, so I can only run 1920x1200 on it over HDMI.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Thanks very much for the thoughts!
> 
> I already have 3x U2413M monitors for Eyefinity, but 2x 7970 isn't enough grunt for me. I have been an Eyefinity user since Win7/5870's launched.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That lack of power has me using a 3008WFP right now, actually, and the crap DVI ports on this monitor died, so I can only run 1920x1200 on it over HDMI.


That sucks









Was gonna say add a 3rd if you can find a cheap one or buy a new 280x DC2V2 (or V1, which has the old pcb design). Start off with two Ti's. Its the same cost as three used 780s but once you start looking for blocks, it can get expensive. Ive seen 780s sell for as low as $400, so three are tempting too.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I'm confused, when I set VCCSA to 1.135v, the actual reading varies from 1.123v to 1.211v and average is 1.164v (averaged over 12+hrs) according to HWINFO v4.31-2063.
> My old R4E with last gen of DIGIpower+ is able to provide more stable voltage. I'm confused why the voltage has such wide variations with the state-of-the-art DIGIpower+?


That's what I'd like to know as well. I want RIVE BE as a more advanced version of WS board, to run it stable and with special settings 3 months without hiccup. (Also few months ago WS cost arms and leg and well RIVE would work for my purposes better if it has more resilient capacitors as I have PC designed to work at 50C degree internal air temperature without a glitch.]

High voltage stability without LLC is a base of overclocking. Also you can't have great overclocking without having a stable board.

What were voltage readings on your RIVE, and are you using numbers during Prime95 small FFT?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that's cheating though. I need to educate my self on what these values are, what they mean, how they work, & how/when to adjust them. I'm tired of blind overclocking. Been doing it for too long. This is my first threaded CPU, iv'e always stuck to the i5 series when dealing with intel.


The easiest way how to find what they mean, is by trial and error. Basically, you will find what they mean for yours CPU.

Main part is done by Vcc anyway. (and by PLL) And PLL should be set by your experiments. (Thought when you are not doing weird stuff, it can be set at default, as long as the board is stable.)


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> That's what I'd like to know as well. I want RIVE BE as a more advanced version of WS board, to run it stable and with special settings 3 months without hiccup. (Also few months ago WS cost arms and leg and well RIVE would work for my purposes better if it has more resilient capacitors as I have PC designed to work at 50C degree internal air temperature without a glitch.]
> 
> High voltage stability without LLC is a base of overclocking. Also you can't have great overclocking without having a stable board.
> 
> What were voltage readings on your RIVE, and are you using numbers during Prime95 small FFT?


what do you mean 'are you using numbers during Prime95 small FFT'. what is the 'number' you are referring to?
Readings on my old R4E is more accurate. For example, if I set VCCSA to 1.1v on R4E, it may vary from 1.07v to 1.13v and the averaged value is extremely close to 1.1v.


----------



## Nunzi

@ Cadaveca Here ya go bro posted this a few pages back


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nunzi*
> 
> @ Cadaveca Here ya go bro posted this a few pages back


Nice rig and nice pictures, mate


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Nice rig and nice pictures, mate


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> No problem, man, I hope to see some screenshots from you soon!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sell it and get a couple of 780's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I hope you saw the BIOS screenshots I finally uploaded for ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I guess you did.


Thank you sir!!


----------



## Slinky PC




----------



## wermad

Wow! Needs water on em gpu(s) imho


----------



## RSharpe

Does anyone have the link to the RIV BE version of AIDA64?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I've been meaning to ask, would you mind adding my build log to the OP, it's in my sig.


No worries I'll add it now, appreciate it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> USPS is fail.


Very, I called them up an hour ago and informed them of my worry, they said if it says its arriving today it WILL arrive today and not to worry. 30 minutes ago USPS arrived without my package, so calling them back to hear a different story now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I have a gtx titan, thinking about buying one extra video card


The question is still what are your intentions though? Are you planning on Surround @ high end settings / resolutions over 1080p ? Titans are selling cheaper/the same price as 780ti's on ebay, I've gotten 2 so far, 1 brand new for about 500$( a SC edition) and the the other about 670$ (not sure if its SC or normal but doesn't matter) after you pop in a custom bios you're beating the 780ti anyways, but that's mainly if you plan on heavy surround such as 1440 - 1600p since the extra RAM will give you room to flex, + be ready for next gen games that are going over the 4gb limit. I'd rather not be held back by 3 later and be glad I had the extra rather than stick with 3 now and enjoy life for a year unless you're the type that upgrades often.

Yes 1440p Surround can be done in 780ti's just Titan's are able to flex better going upwards with settings is about all, + if you already have a titan visit the Titan owners club and see what your card can REALLY do. Just ask Skupples, his card can already run the cure for cancer








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> *Switched from triple 780s to quad Lightnings 7970s to run 5x1 Eyefinity*. Which, you can't do w/ Nvidia (nor 3x2). Its been pretty smooth so far w/ the gpu(s), though having older gen, the drivers are mature pretty substantial. I sold the 780s right before the huge Nvidia price drop. I got tired of the Nvidia pricing scheme and i was pissed they didn't officially allow 4-way or I would have stayed and gottent three 1440 monitors. Anyways, Nvidia is known for poor scaling once you push beyond two cards so I felt like I was wasting my money here. The extra cash i got from the sale I bought a couple of more monitors to push 5x1 6000x1920 keeping my lovely dells
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've only gotten a chance to just boot and install the os w/ the BE. i'm going to wait for the EK block to hit (circles version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> King4x4 is pending a quad R9 290X build and possibly a 3x2/5x1 1440 90hz setup (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). He's also coming off triple 780s.
> 
> tempted to sell the 7970s as prices took a hike recently on the HD7000 series
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


This, I was very tempted to do this, but w/ the issues I"m having getting 3 monitors to sync up color wise it'll be a while before I shoot the upgrade, though 4x 290's would have been nice, just hoping any other issues w/ tearing / etc on crossfire are fixed. I'm loving surround atm.

As for the monitors I have 2 perfect ones color and all just the 3rd has a bad hue to it, which I had replaced with another that has a bad hue on it, no color correction software/hardware is able to fix it, ended up leaving the Korean monitor thread due to massive trolling from some idiot who swore on their life they knew everything and having a bad monitor is not possible and anything can be fixed.

Anywhoo this is the 5th monitor, so I'm getting one more to see if I get any luckier cuz I DO love these korean panels as the 120hz is amazing on 1440p, especially in surround.

THe other thing I like about ATI cards is you can select which monitor you wanna bunch up for eyefinity, whereareas nvidia chooses its own and gives you no option to do so.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*


Wow. I want to see the Slinky PC video of you putting that monstrosity together.








I'll bet the cat and parrot were excited.









What all do you have there? 4 titans and a 4690x?
Is that 4 D5 pumps? Wow.
What case is it? What rads are in it?

Set any records with it yet?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Does anyone have the link to the RIV BE version of AIDA64?


there is no need to find RIV BE version of AIDA64, just download the latest beta version, it will do.//


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*


Ugly as hell !


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> No worries I'll add it now, appreciate it.
> Very, I called them up an hour ago and informed them of my worry, they said if it says its arriving today it WILL arrive today and not to worry. 30 minutes ago USPS arrived without my package, so calling them back to hear a different story now.
> The question is still what are your intentions though? Are you planning on Surround @ high end settings / resolutions over 1080p ? Titans are selling cheaper/the same price as 780ti's on ebay, I've gotten 2 so far, 1 brand new for about 500$( a SC edition) and the the other about 670$ (not sure if its SC or normal but doesn't matter) after you pop in a custom bios you're beating the 780ti anyways, but that's mainly if you plan on heavy surround such as 1440 - 1600p since the extra RAM will give you room to flex, + be ready for next gen games that are going over the 4gb limit. I'd rather not be held back by 3 later and be glad I had the extra rather than stick with 3 now and enjoy life for a year unless you're the type that upgrades often.
> 
> Yes 1440p Surround can be done in 780ti's just Titan's are able to flex better going upwards with settings is about all, + if you already have a titan visit the Titan owners club and see what your card can REALLY do. Just ask Skupples, his card can already run the cure for cancer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This, I was very tempted to do this, but w/ the issues I"m having getting 3 monitors to sync up color wise it'll be a while before I shoot the upgrade, though 4x 290's would have been nice, just hoping any other issues w/ tearing / etc on crossfire are fixed. I'm loving surround atm.
> 
> As for the monitors I have 2 perfect ones color and all just the 3rd has a bad hue to it, which I had replaced with another that has a bad hue on it, no color correction software/hardware is able to fix it, ended up leaving the Korean monitor thread due to massive trolling from some idiot who swore on their life they knew everything and having a bad monitor is not possible and anything can be fixed.
> 
> Anywhoo this is the 5th monitor, so I'm getting one more to see if I get any luckier cuz I DO love these korean panels as the 120hz is amazing on 1440p, especially in surround.
> 
> THe other thing I like about ATI cards is you can select which monitor you wanna bunch up for eyefinity, whereareas nvidia chooses its own and gives you no option to do so.


titan beats 780ti, how is that possible? 780ti has 2880 cores while titan has slightly less 2688 cores.


----------



## skupples

"THe other thing I like about ATI cards is you can select which monitor you wanna bunch up for eyefinity, whereareas nvidia chooses its own and gives you no option to do so."

I don't understand this statement.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> there is no need to find RIV BE version of AIDA64, just download the latest beta version, it will do.//


Has to be standard version, too, Engineer version doesn't work. I'll email Fiery and see if he can't update that though. Thank god I had my own "regular" key, or I'd be SOL. I kinda hate that you need to pay yearly for AIDA64, but given how quickly they update and fix issues, and how awesome the customer support is, I tend to ignore the cost.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nunzi*
> 
> @ Cadaveca Here ya go bro posted this a few pages back


I wanna see benchmarks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*


That's one expensive rig.








Wanna give me, a poor college student, two cards?









LOL.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> titan beats 780ti, how is that possible? 780ti has 2880 cores while titan has slightly less 2688 cores.


Which doesn't amount to much lol, numbers like that are what make normal users choose their cards vs looking into the cards ability. The cores are great if you're mainly aiming @ benchmark scores though







for that tiny difference.

Again I invite you over to the Titan club to see what your card can actually do, in no way am I putting the 780ti down, I'm just wanting you to be aware that since you DO own a titan, you should at least unlock its potential prior to jumping ship


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "THe other thing I like about ATI cards is you can select which monitor you wanna bunch up for eyefinity, whereareas nvidia chooses its own and gives you no option to do so."
> 
> I don't understand this statement.


And i don't understand why you say "ATI cards" ATI is dead since 2006, this cards are AMD cards ! Only intern in AMD ATI is still alive !


----------



## skupples

I think some one hasn't been on nvidia surround in 2 generations is what I think, or ever. BUT HEY! @least Nvidia surround Portrait bezel correction works.










Spoiler: Warning: eyefinity portrait!!


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Which doesn't amount to much lol, numbers like that are what make normal users choose their cards vs looking into the cards ability. The cores are great if you're mainly aiming @ benchmark scores though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for that tiny difference.
> 
> Again I invite you over to the Titan club to see what your card can actually do, in no way am I putting the 780ti down, I'm just wanting you to be aware that since you DO own a titan, you should at least unlock its potential prior to jumping ship


#

i once bump the volt to 1.212v, and I didn't go beyond that.


----------



## cadaveca

I guess a rig pic is in order:


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> And i don't understand why you say "ATI cards" ATI is dead since 2006, this cards are AMD cards ! Only intern in AMD ATI is still alive !


Old habits die hard








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think some one hasn't been on nvidia surround in 2 generations is what I think, or ever.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> #
> 
> i once bump the volt to 1.212v, and I didn't go beyond that.


Was that all? What about the other settings, please DO visit the Titan club and ask a bit, I guarantee you'll be surprised!









That + we can keep this thread back on topic


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Has to be standard version, too, Engineer version doesn't work. I'll email Fiery and see if he can't update that though. Thank god I had my own "regular" key, or I'd be SOL. I kinda hate that you need to pay yearly for AIDA64, but given how quickly they update and fix issues, and how awesome the customer support is, I tend to ignore the cost.
> I wanna see benchmarks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's one expensive rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanna give me, a poor college student, two cards?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL.


yes, I mean a latest beta version of standard AIDA64


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> what do you mean 'are you using numbers during Prime95 small FFT'. what is the 'number' you are referring to?
> Readings on my old R4E is more accurate. For example, if I set VCCSA to 1.1v on R4E, it may vary from 1.07v to 1.13v and the averaged value is extremely close to 1.1v.


I mean do these variations in voltage happen when you are running Prime 95 in the most CPU stressful mode? Can you run Prime for 30 seconds, and capture screenshot with min/max voltages? I'm curious about voltage variations during max load.

Actually if you have time, can you run another little test?
Set voltages to the same values on both boards. (You remember variations in voltages on RIVE, thus set it the same on RIV BE, set LLC on regular, and test it for about 15 minutes-1 hour, repeat the same with LLC on high, then post numbers.)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This, I was very tempted to do this, but w/ the issues I"m having getting 3 monitors to sync up color wise it'll be a while before I shoot the upgrade, though 4x 290's would have been nice, just hoping any other issues w/ tearing / etc on crossfire are fixed. I'm loving surround atm.
> 
> As for the monitors I have 2 perfect ones color and all just the 3rd has a bad hue to it, which I had replaced with another that has a bad hue on it, no color correction software/hardware is able to fix it, ended up leaving the Korean monitor thread due to massive trolling from some idiot who swore on their life they knew everything and having a bad monitor is not possible and anything can be fixed.
> 
> Anywhoo this is the 5th monitor, so I'm getting one more to see if I get any luckier cuz I DO love these korean panels as the 120hz is amazing on 1440p, especially in surround.
> 
> THe other thing I like about ATI cards is you can select which monitor you wanna bunch up for eyefinity, whereareas nvidia chooses its own and gives you no option to do so.


I'm waiting for someone to verify 5x1 or 3x2 Eyefinity on a 290x w/out having sync issues or any issue at all. Amd only gave us one dp, so you'll need to run two or three monitors off the dvi/hdmi connectors. I think its easier to keep the monitors on the same connection for the best MMG experience. If you're not gaming, then it don't matter.

I know a dude who has triggered 5x1 Eyefinity using 2560x1440 Samsung monitors. Would love to do that but that would break my quads 7970s (the dude is running one 7950!).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Ugly as hell !


I sense jelli


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Old habits die hard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was that all? What about the other settings, please DO visit the Titan club and ask a bit, I guarantee you'll be surprised!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That + we can keep this thread back on topic


I bump the volt to 1.212v and, of course, I did other over-clocking settings (core freq. as well as memory freq.).
I felt video card OC was slightly boring and less challenging, so I quit after playing it for about 1 week.
Best result is 6000+ for fire strike extreme with 5800 graphic score (single card).


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*


This is why I don't post picks.....lol SICK!


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I mean do these variations in voltage happen when you are running Prime 95 in the most CPU stressful mode? Can you run Prime for 30 seconds, and capture screenshot with min/max voltages? I'm curious about voltage variations during max load.
> 
> Actually if you have time, can you run another little test?
> Set voltages to the same values on both boards. (You remember variations in voltages on RIVE, thus set it the same on RIV BE, set LLC on regular, and test it for about 15 minutes-1 hour, repeat the same with LLC on high, then post numbers.)


The statistics I used in that example was from HWInfo after 12hr+ p95 stress test.
This also happens to DRAM volt. Set to 1.675 in BIOS, and averaged voltage after 12 hr+ p95 test is close to 1.7v. Such big deviation


----------



## Raghar

Did you cleared up voltage reading after start and saved the screenshot before shutting down the Prime? Voltage stability test needs heavy uninterrupted load on CPU and RAM. Voltage spike test needs CPU going from riddle to max and back to idle. LLC should compensate voltage spikes, but significantly bad ripples during stability test are sign of bad VRM which would be bad news, high voltage spikes are sign of either badly calibrated LLC, or a bad LLC.

Other posters also said that RIV BE was overvolting RAM. Put 1.6V when you want 1.65V until they release new BIOS.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow. I want to see the Slinky PC video of you putting that monstrosity together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll bet the cat and parrot were excited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What all do you have there? 4 titans and a 4690x?
> Is that 4 D5 pumps? Wow.
> What case is it? What rads are in it?
> 
> Set any records with it yet?
Click to expand...

As you can see Coco and Lili are very excited and video coming soon.
They are 4 radiators; on the top XSPC 360, on the bottom XSPC 120, on the front Phobya 200 and on the back Black Ice 140mm
I also use external Aquacomputer Aquaduct 720 XT (2x360 rads) to have a completely silent system and monitoring it with infrared remote control.








BitFenix Shinobi HF customized case, 4X DDC 3.25 pumps and , 4X GTX Titan, i7=4960x and 32GB (8X4GB) G.Skill 3000MHz CL12 at 2800MHz CL10.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Did you cleared up voltage reading after start and saved the screenshot before shutting down the Prime? Voltage stability test needs heavy uninterrupted load on CPU and RAM. Voltage spike test needs CPU going from riddle to max and back to idle. LLC should compensate voltage spikes, but significantly bad ripples during stability test are sign of bad VRM which would be bad news, high voltage spikes are sign of either badly calibrated LLC, or a bad LLC.
> 
> Other posters also said that RIV BE was overvolting RAM. Put 1.6V when you want 1.65V until they release new BIOS.


VCCSA LLC is set to 'regular', which means no voltage compensation presumably.
And it's definitely not a voltage spike during the start / end of test as I can see from live volt reading, it is significantly higher than it should be during stress test


----------



## Raghar

That's quite bad, it's not only spikes. Is it mainly Vccsa or are other voltages as bad as Vccsa? Do you have a multimeter?

Also do you have any coil whine?


----------



## saer

Got my order in


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> That's quite bad, it's not only spikes. Is it mainly Vccsa or are other voltages as bad as Vccsa? Do you have a multimeter?
> 
> Also do you have any coil whine?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> VCCSA LLC is set to 'regular', which means no voltage compensation presumably.
> And it's definitely not a voltage spike during the start / end of test as I can see from live volt reading, it is significantly higher than it should be during stress test .


do you have this mobo? it's very easy to test and hopefully you can confirm that.
As I said earlier, it also happens to VTT, DRAM voltage as well.
I don't have multimeter
Hopefully it's a software issue as this mobo is quite new, maybe Hwinfo gives inaccurate readings.


----------



## Mega Man

WALLS OF TEXT INCOMING !!!!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stressing @ 4.6 @ 1.4v w/ 2333 ramzorz, strap 166... Starting to feel like a decent 3930k!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> No love for AMD in here?
> 
> 
> 
> I think one out of 40 members has AMD gpu's!
> 
> Hrrmm... I should probably go edumacate my self on VCCSA & VTT & those other voltages
> 
> btw, what the hell is the point of that setting that restarts the computer when it detects base clock fluctuation
Click to expand...





congrats skupples !!!

i prefer amd rigs, have 2011 to beat my buddies ( or attempt to beat him) i also will not run nvidia, owned one card, it was ok, just prefer amd have now 5 7970s 1 8350 is running quadfire the 5th is otw for the 2011 build, will be moved to wifes rig when i am done ! when swiftech releases its komodos ill be buying 4x 290x for the 2011 ( although with the holidays i am poor, and wifes birthday coming up )


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Me too, my 7970 DCUII and Matrix are getting a bit long in the tooth, but still meet my needs for gaming pretty well. I have a single 780, and am interested in running three cards, while not being sure what card to run...this board deserves some killer cards and a nice water loop!
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend get two. three is icing on the cake but you really have to start pushing three screens to somewhat justify the 3rd. I see a lot of guys w/ two 780s/Titans/TIs running three monitors. I would start off there and see how it goes.
> 
> I wanted to jump on the 290X bandwagon but I have yet to see a card with three or more dp and a waterblock for it. Still, my cards are pushed a couple of games w/ great results at 6000x1920. Only bummer is that they suck up a lot of power, and the 290X too. So I ended up getting a larger psu.
Click to expand...





mst hubs, although i hate that amd went with 2x dp... i understand why... but i liked i could turn my 7970s into single slots, tell me this is not sexay


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












my only complaint, swiftech did not release a 4 way cfx bridge !!!

here are the mst hubs

http://www.overclock.net/t/1437364/accell-mst-displayport-1-2-hub-for-eyefinity-available-in-the-usa-5x1-eyefinity-confirmed/0_100

this thread has all mst hubs avail in usa


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> there is no need to find RIV BE version of AIDA64, just download the latest beta version, it will do.//
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has to be standard version, too, Engineer version doesn't work. I'll email Fiery and see if he can't update that though. Thank god I had my own "regular" key, or I'd be SOL. I kinda hate that you need to pay yearly for AIDA64, but given how quickly they update and fix issues, and how awesome the customer support is, I tend to ignore the cost.
Click to expand...




yea that is why i am ok with it


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This, I was very tempted to do this, but w/ the issues I"m having getting 3 monitors to sync up color wise it'll be a while before I shoot the upgrade, though 4x 290's would have been nice, just hoping any other issues w/ tearing / etc on crossfire are fixed. I'm loving surround atm.
> 
> As for the monitors I have 2 perfect ones color and all just the 3rd has a bad hue to it, which I had replaced with another that has a bad hue on it, no color correction software/hardware is able to fix it, ended up leaving the Korean monitor thread due to massive trolling from some idiot who swore on their life they knew everything and having a bad monitor is not possible and anything can be fixed.
> 
> Anywhoo this is the 5th monitor, so I'm getting one more to see if I get any luckier cuz I DO love these korean panels as the 120hz is amazing on 1440p, especially in surround.
> 
> THe other thing I like about ATI cards is you can select which monitor you wanna bunch up for eyefinity, whereareas nvidia chooses its own and gives you no option to do so.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for someone to verify 5x1 or 3x2 Eyefinity on a 290x w/out having sync issues or any issue at all. Amd only gave us one dp, so you'll need to run two or three monitors off the dvi/hdmi connectors. I think its easier to keep the monitors on the same connection for the best MMG experience. If you're not gaming, then it don't matter.
> 
> I know a dude who has triggered 5x1 Eyefinity using 2560x1440 Samsung monitors. Would love to do that but that would break my quads 7970s (the dude is running one 7950!).
Click to expand...




i 100% agree it is better to keep on the same connections, and i am soo bummed that amd switched from ref 7970 connections to the new 290x ref connections, i am hoping someone puts out a 290x with firepro connections (6x mini dp ) ... and a otherwise ref board......


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i prefer amd rigs, have 2011 to beat my buddies ( or attempt to beat him) i also will not run nvidia, owned one card, it was ok, just prefer amd have now 5 7970s 1 8350 is running quadfire the 5th is otw for the 2011 build, will be moved to wifes rig when i am done ! when swiftech releases its komodos ill be buying 4x 290x for the 2011 ( although with the holidays i am poor, and wifes birthday coming up )
> 
> mst hubs, although i hate that amd went with 2x dp... i understand why... but i liked i could turn my 7970s into single slots, tell me this is not sexay
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my only complaint, swiftech did not release a 4 way cfx bridge !!!
> 
> here are the mst hubs
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1437364/accell-mst-displayport-1-2-hub-for-eyefinity-available-in-the-usa-5x1-eyefinity-confirmed/0_100
> 
> this thread has all mst hubs avail in usa
> yea that is why i am ok with it
> i 100% agree it is better to keep on the same connections, and i am soo bummed that amd switched from ref 7970 connections to the new 290x ref connections, i am hoping someone puts out a 290x with firepro connections (6x mini dp ) ... and a otherwise ref board......


Sweet looking quads there









It was smart on Amd to move on to two dvi + hdmi since most Eyefinity users run three screens. It also address the very annoying screen tearing issue by running two dvi monitors with one dp to dvi setup. I had this issue and it was the main reason i abandoned quad 7970s last January. Lightnings were hella expensive then so it was not an option. I would have been sweet having at least two mini dp rather then one standard dp for 5x1 amd 3x2 setups.

I'm getting the feeling that 5x1 and 3x2 will be further castrated as 4k and large then 1080 resolutions start taking over.

Here are my quads:


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i prefer amd rigs, have 2011 to beat my buddies ( or attempt to beat him) i also will not run nvidia, owned one card, it was ok, just prefer amd have now 5 7970s 1 8350 is running quadfire the 5th is otw for the 2011 build, will be moved to wifes rig when i am done ! when swiftech releases its komodos ill be buying 4x 290x for the 2011 ( although with the holidays i am poor, and wifes birthday coming up )
> 
> mst hubs, although i hate that amd went with 2x dp... i understand why... but i liked i could turn my 7970s into single slots, tell me this is not sexay
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my only complaint, swiftech did not release a 4 way cfx bridge !!!
> 
> here are the mst hubs
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1437364/accell-mst-displayport-1-2-hub-for-eyefinity-available-in-the-usa-5x1-eyefinity-confirmed/0_100
> 
> this thread has all mst hubs avail in usa
> yea that is why i am ok with it
> i 100% agree it is better to keep on the same connections, and i am soo bummed that amd switched from ref 7970 connections to the new 290x ref connections, i am hoping someone puts out a 290x with firepro connections (6x mini dp ) ... and a otherwise ref board......
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet looking quads there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was smart on Amd to move on to two dvi + hdmi since most Eyefinity users run three screens. It also address the very annoying screen tearing issue by running two dvi monitors with one dp to dvi setup. I had this issue and it was the main reason i abandoned quad 7970s last January. Lightnings were hella expensive then so it was not an option. I would have been sweet having at least two mini dp rather then one standard dp for 5x1 amd 3x2 setups.
> 
> I'm getting the feeling that 5x1 and 3x2 will be further castrated as 4k and large then 1080 resolutions start taking over.
> 
> Here are my quads:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

looks great, dont get me wrong, i 100% understand why they did it,

but we just need to move forward, i think more monitor companies need to start using dp as the standard, moreover across all tv and monitors we need to start just using basic cat6 cables. idk why we need hdmi, when cat6 can pass way way way more data, and are far more common and cheaper to make....... there was talk a few years ago about going that route but it ended pretty quick ....


----------



## skupples

hrmm... System is hanging when I alt-tab out of games. That shouldn't be happening...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Got my order in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I ordered the clean CSQ nickel to match my ram and CPU blocks, and also ordered the nickel mounting bracket for the Supremacy.



I've no idea why they put a black mounting bracket with a nickel/plexi block, but I have a nickel one ordered now to replace it.

Looks like they're closed for the holidays until Monday, so I guess it'll be a while before we have anything in hand.

Darlene


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Got my order in


that looks awesome, however I wouldn't remove the cover until im ready to install the cpu, You don't want to damage those pins... :v


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Got my order in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that looks awesome, however I wouldn't remove the cover until im ready to install the cpu, You don't want to damage those pins... :v
Click to expand...

that is just the pic from EK


----------



## skupples

Must resist the urge to get the VRM block.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet looking quads there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was smart on Amd to move on to two dvi + hdmi since most Eyefinity users run three screens. It also address the very annoying screen tearing issue by running two dvi monitors with one dp to dvi setup. I had this issue and it was the main reason i abandoned quad 7970s last January. Lightnings were hella expensive then so it was not an option. I would have been sweet having at least two mini dp rather then one standard dp for 5x1 amd 3x2 setups.
> 
> I'm getting the feeling that 5x1 and 3x2 will be further castrated as 4k and large then 1080 resolutions start taking over.
> 
> Here are my quads:


Hi

you have to turn around 90degree the CPU Cooler.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi
> 
> you have to turn around 90degree the CPU Cooler.
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/


For 1-2 degrees, not too worried about it







.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi
> 
> you have to turn around 90degree the CPU Cooler.
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/
> 
> 
> 
> For 1-2 degrees, not too worried about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

one thing i have to say, your pc looks great, but have you ever thought about doing this ?


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Yes, in a past rigs have do this about one time, hard work but i like it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> one thing i have to say, your pc looks great, but have you ever thought about doing this ?


Not really tbh since i don't have that attention to detail. I'm like the weekend road warrior. As long as its function and looks decent I'm good. The sleeve is on the oem cables and Lepa does a "Y" setup for each harness. It was a simple way to do it but you still retain the stiff bulky majority of the harness.

I had something like that w/ some Custom CM ribbon cables on an Enermax psu:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm waiting for someone to verify 5x1 or 3x2 Eyefinity on a 290x w/out having sync issues or any issue at all. Amd only gave us one dp, so you'll need to run two or three monitors off the dvi/hdmi connectors. I think its easier to keep the monitors on the same connection for the best MMG experience. If you're not gaming, then it don't matter.
> 
> I know a dude who has triggered 5x1 Eyefinity using 2560x1440 Samsung monitors. Would love to do that but that would break my quads 7970s (the dude is running one 7950!).
> I sense jelli


I can verify that the eyefinity tearing when using different ports is gone with the 290x. I have 3x 290x and 3 monitors in portrait. The only problem I have is that the dp monitor won't come out of sleep sometimes. In Linux it's an easy fix (switch to a console tty), but I have to reboot in windows. I ordered another DVI cable to run 2 DVI 1 HDMI with the hope of fixing it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> I can verify that the eyefinity tearing when using different ports is gone with the 290x. I have 3x 290x and 3 monitors in portrait. The only problem I have is that the dp monitor won't come out of sleep sometimes. In Linux it's an easy fix (switch to a console tty), but I have to reboot in windows. I ordered another DVI cable to run 2 DVI 1 HDMI with the hope of fixing it.


Thank you sir


----------



## binormalkilla

I really with the RIVBE EK block hadn't sold out at the EK store already. I ordered my 290X blocks yesterday and would like to go ahead and install the mobo block while I had the loop apart. Anyone know where else they're in stock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thank you sir


You're welcome.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> I really with the RIVBE EK block hadn't sold out at the EK store already. I ordered my 290X blocks yesterday and would like to go ahead and install the mobo block while I had the loop apart. Anyone know where else they're in stock.


The EK rep said about 1-2 weeks for the US retailers to get them. If you wait for their shop to get them back in stock, and then the shipping, it will be about the same







. I'm waiting for either ppcs.com or fcpu.com to get them (specifically the circle version)..


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet looking quads there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my quads:


As you can see wermad doesn't require Power cables to power their Quad's , its pure green and solar bby~ YYEEEEYYUH

HOLY crap that XSPC res is large compared to the thin res photos i've seen of it , must've been stock of something else LOL. That + Fedex lost a package from PPC's and USPS lost the other package from FCPU so yeah lol..which is about 1.4k of components.Turning out to be a really crappy holiday season


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> As you can see wermad doesn't require Power cables to power their Quad's , its pure green and solar bby~ YYEEEEYYUH


It uses Lightning powah!

Sorry to hear about the lost packages and the missing pump bro. I hope things start turning out better you soon and kick start the new year in a lighter tone.

Love that res. Was tempted to get the 270 and stick in some green leds for my build. But then the FrozenQ quad helix turned up at xioxide and I couldn't turn it down. Turn around is pretty bad for FrozenQ right now so I was lucky to find one (tnx to KPoeticG).


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> It uses Lightning powah!
> 
> Sorry to hear about the lost packages and the missing pump bro. I hope things start turning out better you soon and kick start the new year in a lighter tone.
> 
> Love that res. Was tempted to get the 270 and stick in some green leds for my build. But then the FrozenQ quad helix turned up at xioxide and I couldn't turn it down. Turn around is pretty bad for FrozenQ right now so I was lucky to find one (tnx to KPoeticG).


Yeah I saw a green version of it ....er wait LOL I'm thinking the bay res I just got. I"m really looking forward to testing it out.

Also found the pump was installed for me so I take back what I said and apologize for anything, the resbay box was sealed so didn't think it would be in there, but the thought dawned on me after what jim said in the WC thread so I figured I'd look they sleeved the cables so looks nice.

So that's a good thing all thats remaining is the lost merchandise.

32x GT AP-15's
4x UT60 480's
1x XSPC Raystorm Acrylic
LED lights
Aquaeros 6
XSPC Razor titan backplates x 2


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> [...] Also lol 2nd time FrozenCpu has gotten me, first time was stating they were shipping out saturday and then tracking showed they sent the package in monday evening.
> 
> Now I got another package which I ordered the pump, but I got the pump box w/o the pump just the o-ring and w/e this plastic looking fitting is..the res bay came though but no pump now to put inside lol..yayy. Also HOLY crap that XSPC res is large compared to the thin res photos i've seen of it , must've been stock of something else LOL. That + Fedex lost a package from PPC's and USPS lost the other package from FCPU so yeah lol..which is about 1.4k of components.Turning out to be a really crappy holiday season


Hopefully the rest of your pump's in the missing box from Frozen. Might want to give them a call tomorrow during their working hours to see if they can verify the rest of the pump got sent and help figure out where the rest of your order went. Definitely use the phone & not email like their site says to. Their ph number's at the top of every page. They have always bent over backwards in my experience with any problems like those. PPCs though, they pretty much leave you on your own with any shipping-related issues. PPC's 'shipping & returns' policies posted on their site pretty much bluntly say 'once it leaves our door, it's not our problem any more' (I'm paraphrasing of course).

And yeah, it's hard to appreciate just how big that Photon 270 is until you're holding it. @ 73mm diameter and thick glass, it's a bit fatter and quite a bit heavier than most similar sized res's. I've got the Photon 270 / D5 combo & I love it.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hopefully the rest of your pump's in the missing box from Frozen. Might want to give them a call tomorrow during their working hours to see if they can verify the rest of the pump got sent and help figure out where the rest of your order went. Definitely use the phone & not email like their site says to. Their ph number's at the top of every page. They have always bent over backwards in my experience with any problems like those. PPCs though, they pretty much leave you on your own with any shipping-related issues. PPC's 'shipping & returns' policies posted on their site pretty much bluntly say 'once it leaves our door, it's not our problem any more' (I'm paraphrasing of course).
> 
> And yeah, it's hard to appreciate just how big that Photon 270 is until you're holding it. @ 73mm diameter and thick glass, it's a bit fatter and quite a bit heavier than most similar sized res's. I've got the Photon 270 / D5 combo & I love it.


So sorry already fixed, the pump was installed into the res, looks like they removed it to sleeve the cables so I retracted everything and edited, many apologies, see post above yours.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> I *really with the RIVBE EK block hadn't sold out at the EK store already*. I ordered my 290X blocks yesterday and would like to go ahead and install the mobo block while I had the loop apart. Anyone know where else they're in stock.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thank you sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome.
Click to expand...

Just looking there and it's still showing "just a few pieces" but not "no stock" . .

Does it come up out of stock when you go to order or checkout?

Darlene


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just looking there and it's still showing "just a few pieces" but not "no stock" . .
> 
> Does it come up out of stock when you go to order or checkout?
> 
> Darlene


Thank you for having me check again. Earlier today it was out of stock. I tried to to check out and it gave me a backorder message. Just tried again and successfully ordered the acetal nickel block. I'll have my second gtx560, 3 290x blocks, and the rivbe block installed soon


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'm now having the same issues, random blue screens while on the desktop even with everything on default and 327 GeForce drivers. What could be wrong?


Well BSOD means unstable. I was getting random shutdowns and restarts. Beta drivers were one problem. Another is that with this board, after a certain clock rate you basically need to manually enter some values in and change others, auto doesn't cut it. This value for me is 4.5, anything more I get the random restarts (although much less common now with WHQL drivers). I can get stable up to 4.9 with everything on auto, but the random shutdowns are still there.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Well BSOD means unstable. I was getting random shutdowns and restarts. Beta drivers were one problem. Another is that with this board, after a certain clock rate you basically need to manually enter some values in and change others, auto doesn't cut it. This value for me is 4.5, anything more I get the random restarts (although much less common now with WHQL drivers). I can get stable up to 4.9 with everything on auto, but the random shutdowns are still there.


Was getting BSODs with everything on default.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Was getting BSODs with everything on default.


Default as in stock clocks? If so then that's a different problem. If with overclocks but default settings other than vcore then probably cpu instability or ram


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Was getting BSODs with everything on default.


You sure you install the CPU properly? I suggest you take CPU out and examine if there is any bent pins in socket.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Was getting BSODs with everything on default.


What's your RAM speed at default you mentioned? Try AUTO there too. I had to start troubleshooting by using AUTO and then my RAM was defaulted to 1333 MHz. Everything worked fine. It was a RAM/IMC issue after all.


----------



## asfgbdnf

which PCI-E slots should I use if I want to do quad-SLI


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> which PCI-E slots should I use if I want to do quad-SLI


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> which PCI-E slots should I use if I want to do quad-SLI


This is a trick question . . . . right









All 4 of the long ones would seem like a pretty good guess to me . . . .

D.

Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays to all


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is a trick question . . . . right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All 4 of the long ones would seem like a pretty good guess to me . . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> Merry Christmas to all


ummmm........


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is a trick question . . . . right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All 4 of the long ones would seem like a pretty good guess to me . . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays to all


love your rig. I love watercooling with hard pipe .


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> ummmm........


I'm such an idiot.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> do you have this mobo? it's very easy to test and hopefully you can confirm that.
> As I said earlier, it also happens to VTT, DRAM voltage as well.
> I don't have multimeter
> Hopefully it's a software issue as this mobo is quite new, maybe Hwinfo gives inaccurate readings.


I don't have this board yet, it's still in preorder. I actually just thinking about withdrawing my order from ship 1, and preordering from shop 2. (It would be easier to do troubleshoting as it's not in different country, and it has better warranty.) I'm also thinking about getting WS, or original RIVE, because my preferences are: 1. stability. 2. overclocking. 3. performance per Watt. RIVE has 1, and 2, but not 3. On the other hand the difference in price would probably paid for that difference in power consumption for 5 years 24/7.

Actually I thought other people here that have RIVE and multimeters tested it already and would simply post results. (As long as they are not in denial.) A difference in voltage readings might be a simply caused by a more sensitive voltage probe. Luckily for everyone, both RIVE and RIVE BE have voltage measurement point, which makes things like that amazingly simple.

I thought ASUS Probe II Sense Driver V14.47.55.692 shown accurate readings. Check if these readings are the same as HWinfo/Aida beta. Is Vcc as stable as it was on RIVE?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Default as in stock clocks? If so then that's a different problem. If with overclocks but default settings other than vcore then probably cpu instability or ram


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> You sure you install the CPU properly? I suggest you take CPU out and examine if there is any bent pins in socket.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> What's your RAM speed at default you mentioned? Try AUTO there too. I had to start troubleshooting by using AUTO and then my RAM was defaulted to 1333 MHz. Everything worked fine. It was a RAM/IMC issue after all.


Yeah, default CPU settings and default memory settings. Random BSOD while on desktop, iTunes etc. sometimes even while gaming.

I found a temporary fix, with everything on default settings. Just set LLC to high. Hasn't crashed since. Could just be BIOS instability.


----------



## Raghar

Do you have Turbo disabled? What are your voltages?


----------



## ANDEEZY

Merry Xmas everyone! Getting ready for my first build.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Merry Christmas to everyone


----------



## Raghar

Merry xmas.

I shouldn't read HW boards, and rather should have some way with some cookies.


----------



## skupples




----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


is that you, skupples:thumb:


----------



## skupples

hehe, that's Cookie Pussoclaus

found it, just about what I had set. Accept i'm still @ 1866


----------



## jamiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yeah, default CPU settings and default memory settings. Random BSOD while on desktop, iTunes etc. sometimes even while gaming.
> 
> I found a temporary fix, with everything on default settings. Just set LLC to high. Hasn't crashed since. Could just be BIOS instability.


Yup LLC set to HIGH fixed the same problem for me as well (at least with my first 4930k anyway... I'm not sure if the new one needs the same LLC setting or not).


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> 
> 
> Merry Xmas everyone! Getting ready for my first build.


Merry xmas! Grats and WELCOME!!!!


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I'm such an idiot.


Nah I did the same thing the other day. Couldn't figure out something. Asked the question. Then was like dur...lol


----------



## rabidz7

Where can I get one of these boards cheap?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Where can I get one of these boards cheap?


$470 is the cheapest you can get at CompSource


----------



## skupples

Compsource is one of those sites that lists it, but rarely carry stock, which means you end up waiting 2-4 weeks for it to show up.


----------



## centvalny

Testing bios setting raw Mhx 4/8GB with 4X4GB Corsair Vengeance Extreme 3000 @ DDR3 3300 air



http://imgur.com/FoLsZND


----------



## skupples

Very nice... Anyone know where a legit copy of the Force Gen 3.0 can be had?


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Very nice... Anyone know where a legit copy of the Force Gen 3.0 can be had?


Here ya go.

https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3135/~/geforce-600-series-gen3-support-on-x79-platform

Make sure to run as admin


----------



## Mega Man

merry christmas [email protected]!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> 
> 
> Merry Xmas everyone! Getting ready for my first build.
> 
> 
> 
> Merry xmas! Grats and WELCOME!!!!
Click to expand...

WELCOME !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Where can I get one of these boards cheap?


define cheap ? @~500 well... anywhere that stocks it, at less... well i wish you the best of luck !!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Very nice... Anyone know where a legit copy of the Force Gen 3.0 can be had?
> 
> 
> 
> Here ya go.
> 
> https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3135/~/geforce-600-series-gen3-support-on-x79-platform
> 
> Make sure to run as admin
Click to expand...

i thought you didnt need it anymore?


----------



## skupples

I'm on 3930k. According to gpuZ & bios i'm runnin dat 2.0


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm on 3930k. According to gpuZ & bios i'm runnin dat 2.0


same happened to me, that 2.0 8x does have a bit of an impact, especially on 3 way. the force gen3 worked on windows 7, I had a hard time on windows 8.1


----------



## skupples

I have some lag/latency/stuttering when it comes to turning in games, like if I don't touch my mouse it's all fine, as soon as I pan, i get hit. So, hopefully this helps a bit.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm on 3930k. According to gpuZ & bios i'm runnin dat 2.0


hmm ill have to check mine then,

edit

i thought nvidia fixed that in the drivers?


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hmm ill have to check mine then,
> 
> edit
> 
> i thought nvidia fixed that in the drivers?


Nope, the reason yours is in gen 3 is the amd gpu, nvidia's drivers disable pcie 3 on x79 for sb-e. I had the same issue as Skupples

Edit: at least, they haven't fixed it for titans.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hmm ill have to check mine then,
> 
> edit
> 
> i thought nvidia fixed that in the drivers?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, the reason yours is in gen 3 is the amd gpu, nvidia's drivers disable pcie 3 on x79 for sb-e. I had the same issue as Skupples
> 
> Edit: at least, they haven't fixed it for titans.
Click to expand...

cant you just do the registry hack ?


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> cant you just do the registry hack ?


I did in 8.1, but it's reset with every driver update, the nvidia app is much easier, in my opinion.


----------



## Mega Man

wow thanks for answering, i dunno nothing about nvidia


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> wow thanks for answering, i dunno nothing about nvidia


It's really stupid, especially because the IB-e chips get gen 3 on the same boards. They're just being @$$holes


----------



## Mega Man

you >







< nvidia !!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Just tried the Asus Air Cooled profile with 1.475v @ 4500mhz with XMP 2400mhz memory and it's stable. No more random BSOD.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Just tried the Asus Air Cooled profile with 1.475v @ 4500mhz with XMP 2400mhz memory and it's stable. No more random BSOD.


1.475v? ouch!

I might be buying this board tomorrow at the local store to use with my 3970x, good idea?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1.475v? ouch!
> 
> I might be buying this board tomorrow at the local store to use with my 3970x, good idea?


Bad chip. + I'm still learning what to tweak for stability









What board are you using now? Bad Idea only if you're using a RIVE


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Bad chip. + I'm still learning what to tweak for stability
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What board are you using now? Bad Idea only if you're using a RIVE


Sorry to hear about your chip...









Using the RIVE now, but if I don't get it now, I never will.

Decisions.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Sorry to hear about your chip...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the RIVE now, but if I don't get it now, I never will.
> 
> Decisions.


Not really worth the upgrade in my opinion. You won't see higher cpu overclocks, at least for now. You can however get higher memory overclocks.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Not really worth the upgrade in my opinion. You won't see higher cpu overclocks, at least for now. You can however get higher memory overclocks.


Two things I think are possible with getting the Black board, lower voltage for same OC and possible weird bsod issues trying for the same overclock and voltage as the RIVE.

Memory OC is pretty much maxed out on this board already as it's so rare that an SB-E six core can get 2666MHz + anyways. I'm happy with 2400Mhz. If I get a 4930k, I'd be disappointed if the IMC didn't do 2666Mhz.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Not really worth the upgrade in my opinion. You won't see higher cpu overclocks, at least for now. You can however get higher memory overclocks.


Agreed, plus with SB-e, I doubt you'll be able to gain the benefits of better memory clocking. I've not been able to get past 2400 on my 3930k and it's hitting 4.8GHz at 1.34v, pretty good chip, I think. I've gotten good clock on the BE, but I've never had a rive. If your clocks are in any way similar to mine, I doubt you'll get anything out of the board at all, unless you think it's looks are good enough to warrant another $500


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Two things I think are possible with getting the Black board, lower voltage for same OC and possible weird bsod issues trying for the same overclock and voltage as the RIVE.
> 
> Memory OC is pretty much maxed out on this board already as it's so rare that an SB-E six core can get 2666MHz + anyways. I'm happy with 2400Mhz. If I get a 4930k, I'd be disappointed if the IMC didn't do 2666Mhz.


Even if that is possible. It's not worth the 500 price tag. Unless you can sell the RIVE, then it may not be that bad.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1.475v? ouch!
> 
> I might be buying this board tomorrow at the local store to use with my 3970x, good idea?
> 
> 
> 
> Bad chip. + I'm still learning what to tweak for stability
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What board are you using now? Bad Idea only if you're using a RIVE
Click to expand...

What ram are you using Below are my bios settings currently I can run it at 4.6ghz with the below settings


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What ram are you using Below are my bios settings currently I can run it at 4.6ghz with the below settings


I'm running 16gb 4x4 2400 9 11 11 31 Trident X.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What ram are you using Below are my bios settings currently I can run it at 4.6ghz with the below settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running 16gb 4x4 2400 9 11 11 31 Trident X.
Click to expand...

The settings I posted will work for your setup you could probably go with less VCORE on the CPU


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> The settings I posted will work for your setup you could probably go with less VCORE on the CPU


I'll give it a go. Thanks


----------



## skupples

gen 3 hack = double click, restart, win. That was a welcome surprise...

Been stable @ 4.8 @ 2133 w/ 1.395v for 24 hours now, pushing for 5.0 after work.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gen 3 hack = double click, restart, win. That was a welcome surprise...
> 
> Been stable @ 4.8 @ 2133 w/ 1.395v for 24 hours now, pushing for 5.0 after work.


don't go over 1.4v dor 24/7 use. so 1.395v for 4.8g is the sweet spot for me.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> don't go over 1.4v dor 24/7 use. so 1.395v for 4.8g is the sweet spot for me.


Its a 3930K so I can easily push 1.5 with hoe much radiator this system has. Not too worried d about letting the smoke out due to the OC warranty. Though I think I may need to pull titan #3 she's running a bit hot.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Its a 3930K so I can easily push 1.5 with hoe much radiator this system has. Not too worried d about letting the smoke out due to the OC warranty. Though I think I may need to pull titan #3 she's running a bit hot.


are all of your titans on water?
How many of titan do you have? 3 or 4?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> are all of your titans on water?
> How many of titan do you have? 3 or 4?


Yes sir three. running parallel because cereal is perma sold out stupid speech to txt


----------



## cobz

I posted this over a week ago and was never added to the list... My Validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/2hcxft... Can someone please add me..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cobz*
> 
> I posted this over a week ago and was never added to the list... My Validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/2hcxft... Can someone please add me..


Send a PM to LunaP to make sure you get added.


----------



## szeged

build is almost ready to be turned on for the first time, can finally get the rivebe up and running







gonna have a day or two to play around with it before i tear out all the current acrylic tubing and redo it cleaner now that i know what the hell im doing (kind of) lol

56k connectors dont click the spoiler









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## skupples

So, if I disable the middle slot will it drop me down to dual sli w/o any issues?


----------



## King4x4

So look what my forwarding address sent me


----------



## szeged

bios SSD secure erase refused to recognize my 840 pro, so i went running all over the house to find everything i needed to throw together a quick rig with parts from 15 different rigs ive had, then spent another hour searching for the samsung secure erase disk since my internet was going on and off for some reason, finally got it erased with that ghetto rig, installing win7 again now, hopefully no more snags after that lol.


----------



## erayser

Current pics today... Christmas season is still slowing my progress. Did a little more acrylic work today. Bending acrylic reminds me of cable sleeving. Painful to do... but looks great when it's all done.


----------



## wermad

Looks fantastic!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> build is almost ready to be turned on for the first time, can finally get the rivebe up and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna have a day or two to play around with it before i tear out all the current acrylic tubing and redo it cleaner now that i know what the hell im doing (kind of) lol
> 
> 56k connectors dont click the spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks empty with 1 GPU, just like mine









I need to get 2-3 more.


----------



## erayser

Thanks wermad. I'm not as fast as you, but it's starting to take shape. My issue today was trying to figure out how I was going to do my T-fitting for drainage, and still have enough room for my hands to plug wires into my PSU, and adjust my variable speeds on my dual pumps. The acrylic tubing does give me space that I didn't have with 3/4-1/2 tubing in my last build. After dinner, I'll finish up the CPU acrylic tubing, and some wiring. My LED wiring didn't go so well for my blocks... so I have to redo those too, and take my GPU's out. Nice thing about the acrylic tubing is that it's easy to take out, so I can pull my GPU's out easily.


----------



## cobz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Send a PM to LunaP to make sure you get added.


I am almost 100% positive that I sent him a PM the same time I posted that.. But I will send him another, its possible he did not get it.. thanks..


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> It looks empty with 1 GPU, just like mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get 2-3 more.


benching the cards individually then ill fill er up when i get done with them


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> It looks empty with 1 GPU, just like mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get 2-3 more.


tri-sli is being a PITA... Starting to look like I may need to individually tune each game for it to run smooth.


----------



## jamiee

Nice to see everyone's builds are coming along beautifully


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> tri-sli is being a PITA... Starting to look like I may need to individually tune each game for it to run smooth.


I had two 690s, sold one because 4gpu doesn't really work in games, it was a nightmare. Got more performance with one.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I had two 690s, sold one because 4gpu doesn't really work in games, it was a nightmare. Got more performance with one.


yeah... If I don't figure this out i'll be hocking one of these titans. I'm going to re-test tomorrow w/ one card disabled. Surround + tri-sli is so far not very smooth in anything iv'e tried. Metro last light, batman origins, I got it smooth in black flag, but that required putting physX on the CPU which caused banding.


----------



## Aftermath2006

so finally got my build together and i cant even get a simple OC stable been trying everything i can think of cant even get 4.2 stable not real happy thus far


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> so finally got my build together and i cant even get a simple OC stable been trying everything i can think of cant even get 4.2 stable not real happy thus far


Is it stable with default settings?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Current pics today... Christmas season is still slowing my progress. Did a little more acrylic work today. Bending acrylic reminds me of cable sleeving. Painful to do... but looks great when it's all done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This looks amazing! And its your very first build?!? That's totally amazing, great job! I can't even begin to imagine the disaster my first build would've been had I attempted water cooling (and acrylic tube bending) on my first try!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> This looks amazing! And its your very first build?!? That's totally amazing, great job! I can't even begin to imagine the disaster my first build would've been had I attempted water cooling (and acrylic tube bending) on my first try!


Eric, you run/have ran Tri-sli right? Have any tips? I'm bashing my face against the wall...


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Sorry no. I've always stuck with dual card setups for aesthetics (three is an odd number)!


----------



## skupples

HatlessChimp* was talking about less latency running 290x, I wonder if what i'm experiencing is what he was talking about... Maybe i'll sell the three & get some 290x.


----------



## Aftermath2006

it seems to be stable at default


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HatlessChimp* was talking about less latency running 290x, I wonder if what i'm experiencing is what he was talking about... Maybe i'll sell the three & get some 290x.


Nah, you'll get it. There's always teething issues with new setups, especially the more complex the setup gets. Multiple GPU's with multiple monitors is just asking for headaches but once you get it all sorted it will be sublime!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

New member here:






*http://valid.canardpc.com/y61atf*


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HatlessChimp* was talking about less latency running 290x, I wonder if what i'm experiencing is what he was talking about... Maybe i'll sell the three & get some 290x.


I am running TRI SLI without any issues currently. Go to NVIDIA CONTROL PANEL and go to manage 3D settings go to Power management mode and click MAX PERF.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> New member here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *http://valid.canardpc.com/y61atf*


the king


----------



## Mega Man

time to say good night all, ( haha ) gonna reinstall windows for the first time since i installed this mobo, had installed windows on my prior mobo which was just a loaner


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> New member here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *http://valid.canardpc.com/y61atf[/B*
> 
> 
> ]


YO... I feel like my 3930k could be an easy contender for 5.1+... Currently running 4.8 with cut & paste settings... ram @ 2133... 1.385v vtt 1.1 vccsa 1.1, pll @ 1.7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am running TRI SLI without any issues currently. Go to NVIDIA CONTROL PANEL and go to manage 3D settings go to Power management mode and click MAX PERF.


Are you on a single monitor? Or multiple monitors?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> YO... I feel like my 3930k could be an easy contender for 5.1+... Currently running 4.8 with cut & paste settings... ram @ 2133... 1.385v vtt 1.1 vccsa 1.1, pll @ 1.7
> Are you on a single monitor? Or multiple monitors?


Make sure to do this throttle fix for SB-E cpus:



You'll notice that your Physics score is low and wonder why like I just did today. Priming had my cpu throttle a bit until I did the fix.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> it seems to be stable at default


I ask because mine wasn't.

What I had to do was load the Asus Air cooled profile, reduced the v core from 1.5 to 1.475 for a 4.5 OC. You can lower the voltage to whatever you feel comfortable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> New member here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *http://valid.canardpc.com/y61atf*


Very cool. Are you able to run with less voltage than on RIVE?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

LaBestiaHumana

Not sure yet, just got the mobo 4 hours ago. One thing that I find annoying is that my speakers pop when I power up the pc. Must be a fix for this?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> LaBestiaHumana
> 
> Not sure yet, just got the mobo 4 hours ago. One thing that I find annoying is that my speakers pop when I power up the pc. Must be a fix for this?


nope, it's the integrated audio. Mute... If you unplug your speakers you will hear the mobo it's self tick.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> This looks amazing! And its your very first build?!? That's totally amazing, great job! I can't even begin to imagine the disaster my first build would've been had I attempted water cooling (and acrylic tube bending) on my first try!


Thanks... yeah... I went a little crazy on my first build 2 years ago. It was fun, but I didn't want to case mod again... so I'm doing my RIV BE update on my 2 year old case. Acrylic is sexy... but it isn't easy. However, I'm not using any tools... just eye balling it, and free-hand bending.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Cool deal. Acrylic will be in my next build, whenever that is. Probably X-99, Haswell-E, and Maxwell this time next year...


----------



## Aftermath2006

what is the difference in the air and water profiles

and that power on speaker pop is annoying


----------



## skupples

Welp, i'm throwing in the towel for tonight. Too bad my monitors don't have two dvi connections, it's going to be a pita to switch back & forth from dual & tri for games that hate tri.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> what is the difference in the air and water profiles
> 
> and that power on speaker pop is annoying


I think the difference is just voltage. 1.55v on the water profile, but you can change that to whatever you want.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> LaBestiaHumana
> 
> Not sure yet, just got the mobo 4 hours ago. One thing that I find annoying is that my speakers pop when I power up the pc. Must be a fix for this?


I havn't noticed the speaker pop. Maybe a BIOS update will fix that.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I havn't noticed the speaker pop. Maybe a BIOS update will fix that.


You can hear the board its self do it. Raja has stated that it's design. Some cap/transistor coming to life on the sound card.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You can hear the board its self do it. Raja has stated that it's design. Some cap/transistor coming to life on the sound card.


Right when you press the power button, there is two loud pop sounds right then. Then windows loads and I hear the mobo click. That's no problem, but the two loud pops are. Pretty stupid for a good sound card on a mobo.


----------



## szeged

the sound card pop scared the hell out of me since i just had a slight spill from one of my rad ports leaking lol, thought my mobo just exploded.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Right when you press the power button, there is two loud pop sounds right then. Then windows loads and I hear the mobo click. That's no problem, but the two loud pops are. Pretty stupid for a good sound card on a mobo.


I haven't noticed the first two, i'll listen for those tomorrow.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Not happy about it...

Advice looking around is just turn your speakers all the way down until windows loads or when you feel like listening to something.

Might be going back to the store and sticking with my RIVE. We'll see...


----------



## skupples

& I may be selling a titan + waterblock soon if I can't get tri-sli sorted.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> & I may be selling a titan + waterblock soon if I can't get tri-sli sorted.


I need to try my luck with another 4930K


----------



## rabidz7

Is there a white version of this board? Can it be painted white? I don't want a colored computer.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Taking the mobo back tomorrow. Sticking with my trusty RIVE. Mobo looks great and has some cool features, but that detail of the audio bugs me too much, maybe my OCD is kicking into overdrive.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cobz*
> 
> I posted this over a week ago and was never added to the list... My Validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/2hcxft... Can someone please add me..


I received your recent one just not the last one, not sure what happenned, but may have missed it as I missed a few that time due to it being finals week, was catching up and thought I had gone through and grabbed everyone over the time. Either way responded and added you and grats btw!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> build is almost ready to be turned on for the first time, can finally get the rivebe up and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna have a day or two to play around with it before i tear out all the current acrylic tubing and redo it cleaner now that i know what the hell im doing (kind of) lol
> 
> 56k connectors dont click the spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats been monitoring your build log since I saw it in your sig, FINALLY started mine tonight as well. Though a few hiccups w/ lost USPS packages, seems there's a HUGE list of missing packages everywhere and companies are going nuts w/ USPS to stop the belts and go looking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> So look what my forwarding address sent me


W0000 Grats!!! How long was the entire shipping process?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cobz*
> 
> I am almost 100% positive that I sent him a PM the same time I posted that.. But I will send him another, its possible he did not get it.. thanks..


Again not sure what happenned, and I've been hit and miss this week due to holidays being right after finals and tons of family over, though please don't stress it if you have the board I'm not anal retentive and want u to wait for my permission, anyone here has the ability to grant it so long as you just show you have it, everyone w/ this board is welcome, and I've updated the list to reflect your timeline from your original post.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> New member here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *http://valid.canardpc.com/y61atf*


w00 gratz!! Welcome to the club.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Taking the mobo back tomorrow. Sticking with my trusty RIVE. Mobo looks great and has some cool features, but that detail of the audio bugs me too much, maybe my OCD is kicking into overdrive.


and awww what's the issue w/ the audio?

Also hope everyone had an awesome X-mAs / Hannakuh / w/e you celebrate or a great holiday!


----------



## szeged

anyone know why i would be getting random freezes? everything is set to stock except xmp profile to get 2400mhz ram, fresh windows install, my ssd is basically clean except for windows7 and downloading AC4BF atm. freezing every 30 minutes or so, have to hard reset to get it to work.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Taking the mobo back tomorrow. Sticking with my trusty RIVE. Mobo looks great and has some cool features, but that detail of the audio bugs me too much, maybe my OCD is kicking into overdrive.


Good choice, save yourself 500 bucks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone know why i would be getting random freezes? everything is set to stock except xmp profile to get 2400mhz ram, fresh windows install, my ssd is basically clean except for windows7 and downloading AC4BF atm. freezing every 30 minutes or so, have to hard reset to get it to work.


At stock CPU and Memory settings, this board was not stable, let alone with XMP. You gotta tweak the settings.

I used the Asus Air Profile and just lowered the CPU voltage. If you enable XMP with the Asus Air Cooled profile, you will also need to manually set the clock speed.

This made my system 100% stable @ 4.5ghz with XMP on my 2400 Tridents


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Hey Merry Christmas LunaP.

Just the audio is popping when I power up the computer. I find that annoying for high end onboard audio on a $550 motherboard.

Everything else was great though...

szeged

Try Rampage Tweak mode 3 in the dram options.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Is there a white version of this board? Can it be painted white? *I don't want a colored* computer.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Is there a white version of _*the black edition*_ board? Can it be painted white? *I don't want a colored* computer.
Click to expand...

fixed the question for you


----------



## szeged

loaded the "water cooled gamers" profile thing lol, it wanted the volts to be at 1.55, so i lowered it to 1.4 to see how it went.



what are safe volts/temps for ivy-e? ive been playing with haswell too long where if you go past 1.3v youre treading into the danger zone, and 85c+ was the norm lol.

also, with this profile my ram goes back to 1600


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

1.45v max would be it for me 24/7, but more along the lines of 1.4v max recommended. This is with water cooling btw.


----------



## LunaP

I havent even plugged my board up yet but from what im reading are all the profiles preset for ln2 Lol?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1.45v max would be it for me 24/7, but more along the lines of 1.4v max recommended. This is with water cooling btw.


cool thanks.

took off that preloaded profile from asus and plugged in my own settings



1.4v 4.8ghz 2400mhz ram, i got a lot of tweaking to do but this is a nice starting point.

only using IBT to see the temps im getting for now, gonna prime test later and dial it back till its 100% stable.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1.45v max would be it for me 24/7, but more along the lines of 1.4v max recommended. This is with water cooling btw.


On my system with RIVE overclocked for entire year 2013 my i7-3970x maxim voltage was 1.6v 24/7 with no problems.
I don't play games, I make videos for DailyMotion with my rig and you will need a real CPU voltage to make 60 minutes full HD video in 5 minutes. Don't scare push it, if broken send it to Intel for replacement.
I will never pay 1000$ for cpu to use it at 4.0 or 4.6GHz


----------



## szeged

k 4.9 stable with the same settings, had to give em a .01 voltage bump for 5.0 though

http://valid.canardpc.com/tlvnmd


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> k 4.9 stable with the same settings, had to give em a .01 voltage bump for 5.0 though
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/tlvnmd


Stable as in 24hr prime95 stable or 30min ibt stable?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Stable as in 24hr prime95 stable or 30min ibt stable?


stable as in a quick IBT test stable








ill tweak it some more and run prime for 6 hours or so tomorrow, followed by a few other tests to see if it truly is stable, which i doubt it is. But for now, its not bsoding or crashing or anything lol.


----------



## cruzdi

I see there is an upgrade to the OC Panel firmware&#8230;.
I am upgrading my PC from an ancient P5E3 Deluxe/[email protected] (X-38 chipset) to the R4BE.
The advantage of this old board was the ASUS forum for it, where "Tom (VIP)" kept track of any changes to "Drivers, Utilities, Bios, etc" here:
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20090315020406924&board_id=1&model=P5E3+DELUXE%2fWiFi-AP&page=1&SLanguage=en-us
where the latest version was indicated with an appropriate download link.
This post alone got over 200,000 views over the years.
Would't it be great if this forum could provide the same service.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> I see there is an upgrade to the OC Panel firmware&#8230;.
> I am upgrading my PC from an ancient P5E3 Deluxe/[email protected] (X-38 chipset) to the R4BE.
> The advantage of this old board was the ASUS forum for it, where "Tom (VIP)" kept track of any changes to "Drivers, Utilities, Bios, etc" here:
> http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20090315020406924&board_id=1&model=P5E3+DELUXE%2fWiFi-AP&page=1&SLanguage=en-us
> where the latest version was indicated with an appropriate download link.
> This post alone got over 200,000 views over the years.
> Would't it be great if this forum could provide the same service.


（︶︿︶）╭∩╮ RIVBE+bios 403
The OC panel firmware will don't make it beater there RIVE... ask asus to make another bios or to give as the real bios of there records as this 1st cambo sucks big stile.. sorry. Hopefully I will break this mob/cpu ASAP .


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> I see there is an upgrade to the OC Panel firmware&#8230;.
> I am upgrading my PC from an ancient P5E3 Deluxe/[email protected] (X-38 chipset) to the R4BE.
> The advantage of this old board was the ASUS forum for it, where "Tom (VIP)" kept track of any changes to "Drivers, Utilities, Bios, etc" here:
> http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20090315020406924&board_id=1&model=P5E3+DELUXE%2fWiFi-AP&page=1&SLanguage=en-us
> where the latest version was indicated with an appropriate download link.
> This post alone got over 200,000 views over the years.
> Would't it be great if this forum could provide the same service.
> 
> 
> 
> （︶︿︶）╭∩╮ RIVBE+bios 403
> The OC panel firmware will don't make it beater there RIVE... ask asus to make another bios or to give as the real bios of there records as this 1st cambo sacks big stile.. sorry. Hopefully I will break this mob/cpu ASAP .
Click to expand...

P.S. If you own RIVE, use BIOS 4206 and never buy this crape RIVBE until ASUS will provide as a real bios or... here from me








Goodbye "[Official] Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club!"
Veniamin's Human Slinky (the 1 and only)


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Welp, i'm throwing in the towel for tonight. Too bad my monitors don't have two dvi connections, it's going to be a pita to switch back & forth from dual & tri for games that hate tri.


Glad Im gonna try the x2 sli 770's first. Then later on try the tri-sli thing


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Taking the mobo back tomorrow. Sticking with my trusty RIVE. Mobo looks great and has some cool features, but that detail of the audio bugs me too much, maybe my OCD is kicking into overdrive.


NrTOOSHORT. Can you do a comparison of voltage variance on that board and with RIVE before you'd return it? Set LLC to regular, then do stuff for about 15 minutes, then write all voltages' min/max and average. Then do prime, clear voltage recordings on you program, test it for about 1 minute, then create screenshot with prime still running. Then repeat the same for RIVE.
It would be nice comparison, and considering I have the board still in preorder and I'm most interested in power consumption and stability, it might help me with the decision.

The most convenient way how to do this is to run AIDA beta with BE support, select System Stability test from tools menu, and select statistic tab. I'm most interested in Vcc and Vcsa readings.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> cool thanks.
> 
> took off that preloaded profile from asus and plugged in my own settings
> 
> 
> 
> 1.4v 4.8ghz 2400mhz ram, i got a lot of tweaking to do but this is a nice starting point.
> 
> only using IBT to see the temps im getting for now, gonna prime test later and dial it back till its 100% stable.


My Gflops are ~144 at 4.5 GHz and 1866 mem with the same settings. Usually I only use LinX 0.6.5 and the GFlops are over 170 with max mem.


----------



## kpoeticg

Just noticed THIS in the "New Products" section of FCPU



Nice option for us R4BE owners


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Stable as in 24hr prime95 stable or 30min ibt stable?
> 
> 
> 
> stable as in a quick IBT test stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill tweak it some more and run prime for 6 hours or so tomorrow, followed by a few other tests to see if it truly is stable, which i doubt it is. But for now, its not bsoding or crashing or anything lol.
Click to expand...

Hopefully now you will be able to editing 5 seconds video in full hd


----------



## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Just noticed THIS in the "New Products" section of FCPU
> 
> 
> 
> Nice option for us R4BE owners


Nice find mate, I guess *if* you load up all 4 USB3's at one time they'll run at half speed aye? but what about power?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> k 4.9 stable with the same settings, had to give em a .01 voltage bump for 5.0 though
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/tlvnmd


Looks like you got a golden chip.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Stable as in 24hr prime95 stable or 30min ibt stable?
> 
> 
> 
> stable as in a quick IBT test stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill tweak it some more and run prime for 6 hours or so tomorrow, followed by a few other tests to see if it truly is stable, which i doubt it is. But for now, its not bsoding or crashing or anything lol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hopefully now you will be able to editing 5 seconds video in full hd
Click to expand...

Sue them for damages because you don't like the BIOS !!!!

They used lead paint in the house you grew up in or what . . . . . .

D.


----------



## Akadaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Taking the mobo back tomorrow. Sticking with my trusty RIVE. Mobo looks great and has some cool features, but that detail of the audio bugs me too much, maybe my OCD is kicking into overdrive.


I never understood why people with RIVE would try upgrade, I see the point if people didn't have X79 or had a budget board wanted the best.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Taking the mobo back tomorrow. Sticking with my trusty RIVE. Mobo looks great and has some cool features, but that detail of the audio bugs me too much, maybe my OCD is kicking into overdrive.


Do you run on a bench? It definitely bugged the hell out of me when I had it setup externally.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Welp, i'm throwing in the towel for tonight. Too bad my monitors don't have two dvi connections, it's going to be a pita to switch back & forth from dual & tri for games that hate tri.


I've always wondered if you can use the PCI-e dip switches to switch to SLI or Tri-SLI. Is that how you switched back and forth? It only mentions them used for troubleshooting so I'm curious if this is what some people use them for... especially those that watercool Tri and Quad SLI.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I've always wondered if you can use the PCI-e dip switches to switch to SLI or Tri-SLI. Is that how you switched back and forth? It only mentions them used for troubleshooting so I'm curious if this is what some people use them for... especially those that watercool Tri and Quad SLI.


I'm going to try that today. Going to have to use one hdmi so tjt I can retain surround without switching cables around


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You can hear the board its self do it. Raja has stated that it's design. Some cap/transistor coming to life on the sound card.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Right when you press the power button, there is two loud pop sounds right then. Then windows loads and I hear the mobo click. That's no problem, but the two loud pops are. Pretty stupid for a good sound card on a mobo.


I have both problems. After windows is loaded and before POST


----------



## Seallone

O wow worrid Now after this thread. just orderd mine, from Scan UK. might cancel after all the problems im seeing, coming from 2600k 780 ti sli. eek. \dont think it wil be worth The £ and hassle.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthMuse*
> 
> I never understood why people with RIVE would try upgrade, I see the point if people didn't have X79 or had a budget board wanted the best.


we upgrade because of new on-board audio system LOL


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Wasn't an upgrade to me, just wanted this special board. Didn't work out. I was hoping to come in here this morning for someone to have an idea why the audio pops.









There is more vdroop with LLC set to high compared to the RIVE for the other poster asking.


----------



## szeged

that audio pop is getting very very annoying lol, i can see why you took it back


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> that audio pop is getting very very annoying lol, i can see why you took it back


LoL...

The crappy audio on the RIVE? No pop, quiet as a mouse!


----------



## szeged

lol







unfortunately my rive is in 3 pieces after a tragic accident, so if i ever have problems with the black ed. i have nothing to fall back on


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Wasn't an upgrade to me, just wanted this special board. Didn't work out. I was hoping to come in here this morning for someone to have an idea why the audio pops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is more vdroop with LLC set to high compared to the RIVE for the other poster asking.


buttons on OC panel is even more annoying than this popping sound.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Hopefully now you will be able to editing 5 seconds video in full hd


can someone tell me which email client he is using in this picture?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> buttons on OC panel is even more annoying than this popping sound.


Didn't use any accessories except for the I/O panel. Hooked it all up, did some bios options, got into windows, did a few things, kind of noticed the pop sound after a shut down, confirmed the pop sound is all the time at start up, then starting to think is this board worth it after this little detail, thought no, so it's going back.

If it was some crappy onboard, I'd just disable it and use a sound card. I have a auzentech forte on my shelf. But the RIV BE is supposed to have top notch audio and it would bug me not to be able to use it.

I listened to the Windows 7 sample music, that one with the flute, crystal clear on the Black!


----------



## Raghar

I want an extra sound card anyway. Thus a pop wouldn't matter for too long. However if I'd cancel preorder and take RIVE, I'd actually have money for a quality sound card. The problem is I want it as more configurable and robust WS and performance per Watt is important for me. Also I want mix RAM.
Now, if RIVE would be better for RAM mixing, I'd take RIVE even thought RIVE BE has cleaner and better PCB (aside of VRM). That vdrop is quite strange. I'd though they would copy and bit improve power system from RIVE, and just add better mosfets and chokes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> There is more vdroop with LLC set to high compared to the RIVE for the other poster asking.


That's bad, especially for Ivy-E which needs stable voltage.
Can you post numbers with regular LLC and high LLC? Are you using T-probe, or extreme?

BTW does that pop happen when you have MB out of case and placed on a cardboard box, or on something nonconductive?


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Wasn't an upgrade to me, just wanted this special board. Didn't work out. I was hoping to come in here this morning for someone to have an idea why the audio pops.


I'll have to see how the audio pops, I only use Asus Xonar Essence One (USB DAC) to connect my two computers. For now I can see two bigger issues with this board, which are 1) sudden shutdowns due to XMP profile not working correctly and voltage needs to be dialed in manually 2) this audio popping which could be more of a feature. I have the RIVF as well but I've never tried onboard sound, maybe it's time to check if it exists there or not.

By the way while I think RIVE is very good board, it also has had notorious "no power" issues for which some, if not many, have had to RMA their boards. I've seen that issue every now and then on multiple RIVE boards but it was never a show stopper for me.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I want an extra sound card anyway. Thus a pop wouldn't matter for too long. However if I'd cancel preorder and take RIVE, I'd actually have money for a quality sound card. The problem is I want it as more configurable and robust WS and performance per Watt is important for me. Also I want mix RAM.
> Now, if RIVE would be better for RAM mixing, I'd take RIVE even thought RIVE BE has cleaner and better PCB (aside of VRM). That vdrop is quite strange. I'd though they would copy and bit improve power system from RIVE, and just add better mosfets and chokes.
> That's bad, especially for Ivy-E which needs stable voltage.
> Can you post numbers with regular LLC and high LLC? Are you using T-probe, or extreme?
> 
> BTW does that pop happen when you have MB out of case and placed on a cardboard box, or on something nonconductive?


is there a way to disable onboard sound card or when you plug in your pci-e sound card, onboard one will be disabled automatically?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

No, just put the board into my 800d and there I went. I had the Rampage III and two RIVEs and no pop sound. Can't be the case or grounding issues.

Rive with 1.45v set in bios, would go 1.488v under load with high LLC. The Black with 1.45v set in bios would go 1.44v on load with high LLC.

DRM+ was pretty much maxed out.

Had two RIVEs as mentioned, the first one had a cpu 8 pin melting accident because of double cable extensions I believe. And now this one, no power issues.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> is there a way to disable onboard sound card or when you plug in your pci-e sound card, onboard one will be disabled automatically?


You'd plug your speakers into your PCI-E card, and plug you PCI-E card into the board. This should remove the worst culprit - speakers. Of course, this would probably have zero effect on poping sound from other sources.

Actually, disable onboard audio in BIOS, remove jacks from MB, shut down PC, wait 2 minutes, then start it again. When that solves your problem, sound card would solve your problem. when that wouldn't be enough, a sound card wouldn't help you.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> No, just put the board into my 800d and there I went. I had the Rampage III and two RIVEs and no pop sound. Can't be the case or grounding issues.
> 
> Rive with 1.45v set in bios, would go 1.488v under load with high LLC. The Black with 1.45v set in bios would go 1.44v on load with high LLC.
> 
> DRM+ was pretty much maxed out.
> 
> Had two RIVEs as mentioned, the first one had a cpu 8 pin melting accident because of double cable extensions I believe. And now this one, no power issues.


I still don't notice any speakers pop.


----------



## szeged

the worst part is its like an electrical pop like something got wet and fried itself, scares me every time lol.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the worst part is its like an electrical pop like something got wet and fried itself, scares me every time lol.


I guess you never owned any hi-fi audio equipment, or an ASUS soundcard. It's a relay clicking on the amp of the soundcard, and completely harmless.


----------



## rabidz7

When will micro center carry these?


----------



## Dantrax

I have a Logitech Z906 Bass speaker unit with the Logitech control unit plugged into my eClaro sound card & every time I turn it on by pushing the on/off button on the control unit I get a pop sound as the unit powers on. After that everything works & sounds great. Is that the pop sound you're hearing?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> I have a Logitech Z906 Bass speaker unit with the Logitech control unit plugged into my eClaro sound card & every time I turn it on by pushing the on/off button on the control unit I get a pop sound as the unit powers on. After that everything works & sounds great. Is that the pop sound you're hearing?


The pop is turning out to be something kool. Lol


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> I have a Logitech Z906 Bass speaker unit with the Logitech control unit plugged into my eClaro sound card & every time I turn it on by pushing the on/off button on the control unit I get a pop sound as the unit powers on. After that everything works & sounds great. Is that the pop sound you're hearing?


Yea, that's the sound. Two pops though. Then right before windows loads, the relay clicks in.

Still thinking about keeping the board, maybe there is a way to to fix the pop sound a bit. Maybe put plastic washers on the inside part of the motherboard stand offs?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Yea, that's the sound. Two pops though. Then right before windows loads, the relay clicks in.
> 
> Still thinking about keeping the board, maybe there is a way to to fix the pop sound a bit. Maybe put plastic washers on the inside part of the motherboard stand offs?


can't fix something that isn't broke...can't change what you hear without killing the board.

At the bottom edge of the board is a white "box", with NEC on the label...that's the relay making the clicking noise.

It IS, quite literally, the amp of the soundcard kicking on the relay as the driver loads, or is turned off.

I suppose you could mod out the relay with another one..but it'd still click.


----------



## Valice

you can add me to the owners as well as onto the build log list! thanks








build log here >> http://www.overclock.net/t/1454222/build-log-nemesis-a-watercooling-adventure


----------



## skupples

All of my supreme fx boards have done the same. Its just louder on this unit than the older model. My old creative sound card does it as well.

Welcome valice


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> can't fix something that isn't broke...can't change what you hear without killing the board.
> 
> At the bottom edge of the board is a white "box", with NEC on the label...that's the relay making the clicking noise.
> 
> It IS, quite literally, the amp of the soundcard kicking on the relay as the driver loads, or is turned off.
> 
> I suppose you could mod out the relay with another one..but it'd still click.


Not talking about the relay click when windows loads. The second you press power on, there are two loud pops.

I have some thinking to do about keeping it. It's so damn nice!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Not talking about the relay click when windows loads. The second you press power on, there are two loud pops.


Oh. That doesn't sound normal.










I'd swap the board out at least. My boards are silent except for the relay, which is pretty loud and annoying. I have speakers and such plugged in and on all the time, don't hear anything else, but I am LOVING this board.

Does take a good chip to really see how it excels, and the BIOS does need some tuning, for sure. I'll be writing up my review starting Monday, hopefully it'll be posted late next week.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Not talking about the relay click when windows loads. The second you press power on, there are two loud pops.
> 
> I have some thinking to do about keeping it. It's so damn nice!


Keep it for 30 days, if you're not happy return it.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I guess you never owned any hi-fi audio equipment, or an ASUS soundcard. It's a relay clicking on the amp of the soundcard, and completely harmless.


yeah i know its harmless its just i never expect it, and with a recent spill in my loop it freaks me out every time until i realize what it is


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah i know its harmless its just i never expect it, and with a recent spill in my loop it freaks me out every time until i realize what it is


Must be louder some boards than others. My headset doesn't pop. I don't have external speakers.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Oh. That doesn't sound normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd swap the board out at least. My boards are silent except for the relay, which is pretty loud and annoying. I have speakers and such plugged in and on all the time, don't hear anything else, but I am LOVING this board.
> 
> Does take a good chip to really see how it excels, and the BIOS does need some tuning, for sure. I'll be writing up my review starting Monday, hopefully it'll be posted late next week.


I have that two pop noise once I press the power button.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah i know its harmless its just i never expect it, and with a recent spill in my loop it freaks me out every time until i realize what it is


I TOTALLY understand. I don't do watercooling anymore, other than AIO loops, for what is likely similar reasons. I had a seal in a VGA block go, sprayed water all down the board, since it was on the board-side of the block, by PCIe connector.

This board was a nightmare for me until I stuck my good CPU in, too, and fixed the DRAM timings to get rid of the random reboots.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I have that two pop noise once I press the power button.


In headset? That wouldn't surprise me, since the headset side of audio is louder than the back panel (due to amp in-line in circuit).

I'll reboot and check it out, but likely.. it's harmless.


----------



## szeged

havent had any random reboots yet, did have some freezing on stock settings with xmp profile enabled, no more freezing after tweaking the cpu a bit though, running 4.9ghz for the past 8 hours or so with no problems.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> havent had any random reboots yet, did have some freezing on stock settings with xmp profile enabled, no more freezing after tweaking the cpu a bit though, running 4.9ghz for the past 8 hours or so with no problems.


That's when the board really starts to show itself, when you push it hard.

Compared to my P9X79 Deluxe, daily OC is a nightmare. P9X79 Deluxe, easy to set-up for daily use, easy to OC, easy since day one. When IVB-E was launched, and ASUS updated BIOS layout and gave new options in BIOS, P9X79 matured greatly. P9X79 is more forgiving to memory OC (better tuned BIOS memory compatibility), but RIVBE allows for lower voltage used on CPU OC, by nearly 0.1V, with my ES SB-E chips. IVB-E ES, P9X79 is better for easy OC.

But I want to say Intel MEI needs update for RIVBE. I have to check which version each board is using.

P9X79 Deluxe, with Dominator 2666 C10 4x4 GB, enable XMP, set CPU multi and volt, and you're done.

RIVBE, leave XMP alone, set everything manually, including VRM settings, adjust tertiary timings manually, adjust secondary timings manually, set all voltages.

This RIVBE board is very much a noob catcher. Either you know how to tweak OC, or you get huge frustration. FOr extreme OC board, that's perfect, in my books.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> In headset? That wouldn't surprise me, since the headset side of audio is louder than the back panel (due to amp in-line in circuit).
> 
> I'll reboot and check it out, but likely.. it's harmless.


it's my speaker which is built in the monitor connected through back panel


----------



## Dantrax

cadaveca "But I want to say Intel MEI needs update for RIVBE. I have to check which version each board is using."

The P9X79 & R4BE both use the same version


----------



## Dantrax

MrTOOSHORT "Yea, that's the sound. Two pops though. Then right before windows loads, the relay clicks in." Well I only get one pop, as if the speaker system caps are loading up with no where to go. Does your sound system work OK after initial pops or is the sound repeating? It might just be an initializing noise.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> MrTOOSHORT "Yea, that's the sound. Two pops though. Then right before windows loads, the relay clicks in." Well I only get one pop, as if the speaker system caps are loading up with no where to go. Does your sound system work OK after initial pops or is the sound repeating? It might just be an initializing noise.


I have the same problem, Two pops after pressing power button. My speaker is built in the monitor connected through back panel


----------



## skupples

Well, @ least crysis 3 likes tri-sli + surround. Just went 20-3 in the first match iv'e played in 6 months. Must mean the player base is terrible.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> No, just put the board into my 800d and there I went. I had the Rampage III and two RIVEs and no pop sound. Can't be the case or grounding issues.
> 
> Rive with 1.45v set in bios, would go 1.488v under load with high LLC. The Black with 1.45v set in bios would go 1.44v on load with high LLC.


Actually it's relatively nice LLC. How large are upward spikes? And how large is Vdrop on regular and on medium?

However considering you were forced to max you DIGI+ I kinda wonder about power related parts. The above doesn't look like they have reserves. However, it can be just an early BIOS revision. I know they want to add vt-d in next BIOS, and they might nudge few other things as well.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Actually it's relatively nice LLC. How large are upward spikes? And how large is Vdrop on regular and on medium?
> 
> However considering you were forced to max you DIGI+ I kinda wonder about power related parts. The above doesn't look like they have reserves. However, it can be just an early BIOS revision. I know they want to add vt-d in next BIOS, and they might nudge few other things as well.


Had the thing installed for about 5 hours. Not enough time to give a proper input.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Wasn't an upgrade to me, just wanted this special board. Didn't work out. I was hoping to come in here this morning for someone to have an idea why the audio pops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is more vdroop with LLC set to high compared to the RIVE for the other poster asking.


I can confirm that there is more vdroop on R4BE compared with old R4E.
From my tests, let's say Vcore = 1.25v in BIOS , set LLC to 'extreme(100%)' allows 1.25V Vcore under load. On the other hand, I guess LLC = 'high' is sufficient on R4E.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I can confirm that there is more vdroop on R4BE compared with old R4E.
> From my tests, let's say Vcore = 1.25v in BIOS , set LLC to 'extreme(100%)' allows 1.25V Vcore under load. On the other hand, I guess LLC = 'high' is sufficient on R4E.


I set 1.25 V and "HIGH", I get 1.263 V idle, 1.25Vload, measured by multi meter.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I set 1.25 V and "HIGH", I get 1.263 V idle, 1.25Vload, measured by multi meter.


Does CPU-Z/AIDA reports the voltage as 1.263V as well?

Also how Regular, and Medium settings looks like?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Does CPU-Z/AIDA reports the voltage as 1.263V as well?
> 
> Also how Regular, and Medium settings looks like?


nope, it reports 1.264 and 1.248 V.

regular sees 0.05-0.075 droop, medium 0.025-0.05V. very high 0.025V boost, extreme 0.05V. Roughly the same for all three of my chips.

That was one of the first things I checked, and why I was suggesting using high to some users many days ago.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys, waterblocks are almost here . . . . .

Just noticed that the EK mobo waterblock full kit is in the new products listing on FCPU, and shows as "orderable" which is an upgrade from earlier this afternoon when it was listed as "out of stock".

http://www.frozencpu.com/newproducts/list/p1/201312/NewProducts-Page1.html

Darlene


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> nope, it reports 1.264 and 1.248 V.
> 
> regular sees 0.05-0.075 droop, medium 0.025-0.05V. very high 0.025V boost, extreme 0.05V. Roughly the same for all three of my chips.
> 
> That was one of the first things I checked, and why I was suggesting using high to some users many days ago.


That's actually quite accurate for a SW reading.

Can your multimeter test peak voltages, and ripples, as well?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valice*
> 
> you can add me to the owners as well as onto the build log list! thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> build log here >> http://www.overclock.net/t/1454222/build-log-nemesis-a-watercooling-adventure
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


HA! Didn't miss this one ! I"m on a roll!!! WELCOME TO ZE CLUB!!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys, waterblocks are almost here . . . . .
> 
> Just noticed that the EK mobo waterblock full kit is in the new products listing on FCPU, and shows as "orderable" which is an upgrade from earlier this afternoon when it was listed as "out of stock".
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/newproducts/list/p1/201312/NewProducts-Page1.html
> 
> Darlene


Thanks D! Looking forward to the acrylic ones they'll go well w/ my XSPC's

Also finally started my build log, Acrylic is here so gonna start popping the fans on the Rad's then put in the controllers and bay res and start getting a feel for how I"m gonna run this. Are there back clamps(holders for tube res) I can buy for the TH10? I wanna stick my XSPC photon 270 near my board in the center and guessing I'll need to drill to allow it to hold itself?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys, waterblocks are almost here . . . . .
> 
> Just noticed that the EK mobo waterblock full kit is in the new products listing on FCPU, and shows as "orderable" which is an upgrade from earlier this afternoon when it was listed as "out of stock".
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/newproducts/list/p1/201312/NewProducts-Page1.html
> 
> Darlene


When did you order?
I ordered from EK almost immediately after they appeared on their web page, but didn't get shipping confirmation. :-(


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys, waterblocks are almost here . . . . .
> 
> Just noticed that the EK mobo waterblock full kit is in the new products listing on FCPU, and shows as "orderable" which is an upgrade from earlier this afternoon when it was listed as "out of stock".
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/newproducts/list/p1/201312/NewProducts-Page1.html
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> When did you order?
> I ordered from EK almost immediately after they appeared on their web page, but didn't get shipping confirmation. :-(
Click to expand...

I ordered the day they showed up on the EK store, but checking their holiday schedule, they worked a half day Xmas eve, and don't open again till Monday the 30th.
Then closed the 1st thru 5th for new years.

We should see shipping conf. on Monday, by Tuesday at the latest, for those of us that ordered Xmas eve.

Darlene


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> nope, it reports 1.264 and 1.248 V.
> 
> regular sees 0.05-0.075 droop, medium 0.025-0.05V. very high 0.025V boost, extreme 0.05V. Roughly the same for all three of my chips.
> 
> That was one of the first things I checked, and why I was suggesting using high to some users many days ago.


which one gives you more accurate reading, cpuz or aida?
What you said is more convincing as you measured with multimeter and I only refer to SW reading.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I ordered the day they showed up on the EK store, but checking their holiday schedule, they worked a half day Xmas eve, and don't open again till Monday the 30th.
> Then closed the 1st thru 5th for new years.
> 
> We should see shipping conf. on Monday, by Tuesday at the latest, for those of us that ordered Xmas eve.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah, that's what i was thinking since nothing arrived for me today.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> which one gives you more accurate reading, cpuz or aida?
> What you said is more convincing as you measured with multimeter and I only refer to SW reading.


I don't use CPU-Z to monitor voltages. If AIDA wasn't accurate enough for me, an email to the guys there and it'd get fixed, anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> That's actually quite accurate for a SW reading.
> 
> Can your multimeter test peak voltages, and ripples, as well?


Not the one I used, but I do have FLUKE meters that can. I have never really felt the need to do so as what software provides is enough for me to judge stability well enough anyway, once you know how a chip performs. If an end user needs to hook up an oscilloscope to a board, they should be making the boards.









Once I had been doing reviews for a while, I realized that sort of in-depth exploration of board function, while useful to some users, doesn't appeal to most, and explaining why it's important is even more difficult than reporting it. I am more focused on ease of use an general clocking ability rather than anything else. If options in BIOS have an effect...then they are interesting...if they don't, then who cares *why* they don't work? Not me.


----------



## skupples

Got a quick question... Getting some freezing when tabbing out of 3d programs... CPU or GPU? Never experienced this before on my 4 cores.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Got a quick question... Getting some freezing when tabbing out of 3d programs... CPU or GPU? Never experienced this before on my 4 cores.


Likely GPU or ram (or in rare care HDD/SSD). CPU plays little role in task-switching at this level.


----------



## erayser

I finished my acrylic tubing on CPU last night... and shared pics in my build thread last night, but today I took better pics today with more light. I suck with my wife's SLR camera in taking night photo's.










Anyhow, I'm still undecided about installing my SB Fata1ty 3D Recon soundcard. Would it be better than the onboard? I just hate the red LED. If you guys think it's worth it, I'll change the red LED to a white LED and install it.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I finished my acrylic tubing on CPU last night... and shared pics in my build thread last night, but today I took better pics today with more light. I suck with my wife's SLR camera in taking night photo's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow, I'm still undecided about installing my SB Fata1ty 3D Recon soundcard. Would it be better than the onboard? I just hate the red LED. If you guys think it's worth it, I'll change the red LED to a white LED and install it.


That looks amazing.

I suggest a custom SLI bridge cover.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Asus soundcard yes, Creative soundcard no.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Got a quick question... Getting some freezing when tabbing out of 3d programs... CPU or GPU? Never experienced this before on my 4 cores.


Set the memory to default settings and see if the problem persists.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That looks amazing.
> 
> I suggest a custom SLI bridge cover.


Thanks... and I know... it is an eye sore... LOL...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Asus soundcard yes, Creative soundcard no.


I wasn't going to use it in my update build. I only started thinking about using it when people started complaining about the loud popping sounds with the onboard sound.


----------



## szeged

4.9 stable after a few hours so far, gonna try to get 5.0 stable now and leave it at that for a bit and run some 3dmark







maybe with enough tweaking i can get it past 5.0


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 4.9 stable after a few hours so far, gonna try to get 5.0 stable now and leave it at that for a bit and run some 3dmark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe with enough tweaking i can get it past 5.0


Nice







. What voltage you running?


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Just noticed THIS in the "New Products" section of FCPU
> 
> 
> 
> Nice option for us R4BE owners





nah highly suggest not using it, unless something has changed which i highly doubt you split usb you need a special chip telling the controller it is a hub.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthMuse*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Taking the mobo back tomorrow. Sticking with my trusty RIVE. Mobo looks great and has some cool features, but that detail of the audio bugs me too much, maybe my OCD is kicking into overdrive.
> 
> 
> 
> I never understood why people with RIVE would try upgrade, I see the point if people didn't have X79 or had a budget board wanted the best.
Click to expand...




ill check again but i have not heard that. maybe bad board?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seallone*
> 
> O wow worrid Now after this thread. just orderd mine, from Scan UK. might cancel after all the problems im seeing, coming from 2600k 780 ti sli. eek. \dont think it wil be worth The £ and hassle.





it is, it is !


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthMuse*
> 
> I never understood why people with RIVE would try upgrade, I see the point if people didn't have X79 or had a budget board wanted the best.
> 
> 
> 
> we upgrade because of new on-board audio system LOL
Click to expand...












but what he misses is the i want to answer


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I want an extra sound card anyway. Thus a pop wouldn't matter for too long. However if I'd cancel preorder and take RIVE, I'd actually have money for a quality sound card. The problem is I want it as more configurable and robust WS and performance per Watt is important for me. Also I want mix RAM.
> Now, if RIVE would be better for RAM mixing, I'd take RIVE even thought RIVE BE has cleaner and better PCB (aside of VRM). That vdrop is quite strange. I'd though they would copy and bit improve power system from RIVE, and just add better mosfets and chokes.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> There is more vdroop with LLC set to high compared to the RIVE for the other poster asking.
> 
> 
> 
> That's bad, especially for Ivy-E which needs stable voltage.
> Can you post numbers with regular LLC and high LLC? Are you using T-probe, or extreme?
> 
> BTW does that pop happen when you have MB out of case and placed on a cardboard box, or on something nonconductive?
Click to expand...





software is a horrible thing to use for checking anything voltages related, there is 1 board that consistently reads 10v on the 12v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> When will micro center carry these?


probably wont be for a while, they are pretty slow to stock anything ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valice*
> 
> you can add me to the owners as well as onto the build log list! thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> build log here >> http://www.overclock.net/t/1454222/build-log-nemesis-a-watercooling-adventure
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


welcome !!!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Valice*
> 
> you can add me to the owners as well as onto the build log list! thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> build log here >> http://www.overclock.net/t/1454222/build-log-nemesis-a-watercooling-adventure
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HA! Didn't miss this one ! I"m on a roll!!! WELCOME TO ZE CLUB!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys, waterblocks are almost here . . . . .
> 
> Just noticed that the EK mobo waterblock full kit is in the new products listing on FCPU, and shows as "orderable" which is an upgrade from earlier this afternoon when it was listed as "out of stock".
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/newproducts/list/p1/201312/NewProducts-Page1.html
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks D! Looking forward to the acrylic ones they'll go well w/ my XSPC's
> 
> Also finally started my build log, Acrylic is here so gonna start popping the fans on the Rad's then put in the controllers and bay res and start getting a feel for how I"m gonna run this. Are there back clamps(holders for tube res) I can buy for the TH10? I wanna stick my XSPC photon 270 near my board in the center and guessing I'll need to drill to allow it to hold itself?
Click to expand...




they have the acrylic in orderable status too !


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What voltage you running?


1.41


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Ok I'm back with the RIV BE installed again. 99% sure I'm going to say the heck with it and just ignore that pop sound and keep it. I mean the board is just too gorgeous!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Ok I'm back with the RIV BE installed again. 99% sure I'm going to say the heck with it and just ignore that pop sound and keep it. I mean the board is just too gorgeous!


haha, there we go, leave old faithful for the young and beautiful


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 1.41


Wow, impressive! ht on? You end up finding some really nice chips there sir








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Ok I'm back with the RIV BE installed again. 99% sure I'm going to say the heck with it and just ignore that pop sound and keep it. I mean the board is just too gorgeous!


Coming from the comp speakers? or the mb speaker?


----------



## Akadaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Didn't use any accessories except for the I/O panel. Hooked it all up, did some bios options, got into windows, did a few things, kind of noticed the pop sound after a shut down, confirmed the pop sound is all the time at start up, then starting to think is this board worth it after this little detail, thought no, so it's going back.
> 
> If it was some crappy onboard, I'd just disable it and use a sound card. I have a auzentech forte on my shelf. But the RIV BE is supposed to have top notch audio and it would bug me not to be able to use it.
> 
> I listened to the Windows 7 sample music, that one with the flute, crystal clear on the Black!


I heard the Supreme FX is just realtek with Asus software.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

LoL!









Press the power button and two pops through my Klipsch 2.1, but really it's not that big of a deal.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, impressive! ht on? You end up finding some really nice chips there sir


yep HT is on, all cores at 4.9, gonna test 5.0 now and if its relatively easy ill go for 5.2 or something. I always get lucky with cpu's but cant get a golden gpu to save my life lol.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

This board gets a tad better latency compared to the RIVE at the same overclock. If I notice anything worth mentioning between the two, I'll post it here.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthMuse*
> 
> I heard the Supreme FX is just realtek with Asus software.


Lol, i had this same mentallity but ppl assured me it was something a lot better. I was very skeptical since I had a Sniper3 and Sniper5 w/ awesome onboard audio chips. From the reviews, it scored better then the Sniper5 and its getting a lot of praise as one of the best onboard audio chips. So, its definitely not like the old Realtek chips. I guess the enormous amount of realtek crappy onboard chips really makes on think everything realtek is crap. I have yet to personally try it but its looking like something special.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> LoL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press the power button and two pops through my Klipsch 2.1, but really it's not that big of a deal.


hmmmm, don't sound good (sans pun). No rma option?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I can just go back to the store and exchange or return it, but seems normal as lot of users get the same thing.

Even my Forte Sound card does one pop at the press of the power button.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthMuse*
> 
> I heard the Supreme FX is just realtek with Asus software.


The supreme FX is realtek, with realtek software

I noticed one pop @ power on, & the sound card pop. So, total of two pops...

BTW... #3 card is the top slot card correct? I have a pretty big temp discrepancy with #3, it's a good 5c hotter than the other two cards. I know I TIM'ed it right, wondering if this parallel bridge is the issue.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> LoL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press the power button and two pops through my Klipsch 2.1, but really it's not that big of a deal.


I get the pop in my headphones also. I have my receiver hooked up to the spdif, and no pop on my speakers, I guess digital audio needs the drivers which aren't loaded until windows comes up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yep HT is on, all cores at 4.9, gonna test 5.0 now and if its relatively easy ill go for 5.2 or something. I always get lucky with cpu's but cant get a golden gpu to save my life lol.


Lucky. I need around 1.5 for 4.9


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthMuse*
> 
> I heard the Supreme FX is just realtek with Asus software.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, i had this same mentallity but ppl assured me it was something a lot better. I was very skeptical since I had a Sniper3 and Sniper5 w/ awesome onboard audio chips. From the reviews, it scored better then the Sniper5 and its getting a lot of praise as one of the best onboard audio chips. So, its definitely not like the old Realtek chips. I guess the enormous amount of realtek crappy onboard chips really makes on think everything realtek is crap. I have yet to personally try it but its looking like something special.
> 
> people never have understood you get what you pay for, most mobos just want meh audio, and pay accordingly, does not mean realtek does not have a better chip.
Click to expand...


----------



## skupples

The sound coming out of this board sounds awesome so far, but iv'e gone back to my wireless headset due to the master cluster forming on my desk. I really gotta find a better way to organize these things, which is going to require 15 foot DVI cables I think. erm... I ordered 15 footers, but amazon sent me 10 footers.

NO ONE answered my question.

The card that reads GPU#3 is actually the top slot on the board correct? SLi counts from the bottom up right? btw, resolved the alt tab stuttering, just tweaked the secondary memory voltages.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The sound coming out of this board sounds awesome so far, but iv'e gone back to my wireless headset due to the master cluster forming on my desk. I really gotta find a better way to organize these things, which is going to require 15 foot DVI cables I think. erm... I ordered 15 footers, but amazon sent me 10 footers.
> 
> NO ONE answered my question.
> 
> The card that reads GPU#3 is actually the top slot on the board correct? SLi counts from the bottom up right? btw, resolved the alt tab stuttering, just tweaked the secondary memory voltages.


What program are you using to monitor your temps? right now my idle temps on my Titans are 26C 26C 28C


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What program are you using to monitor your temps? right now my idle temps on my Titans are 26C 26C 28C


I idle around 30c, with an 85f room. (florida) Once i'm in game i'll have ~35 on #1 & #2, but 40+ on #3. @ some point i'll pull it & re-tim, but i rarely mess up in the department, specially since I use coollabs ultra. I'm also running them in parallel, which I hear is not the best choice for tri-sli. Serial>parallel from what I understand with this configuration.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What program are you using to monitor your temps? right now my idle temps on my Titans are 26C 26C 28C
> 
> 
> 
> I idle around 30c, with an 85f room. (florida) Once i'm in game i'll have ~35 on #1 & #2, but 40+ on #3. @ some point i'll pull it & re-tim, but i rarely mess up in the department, specially since I use coollabs ultra. I'm also running them in parallel, which I hear is not the best choice for tri-sli. Serial>parallel from what I understand with this configuration.
Click to expand...

who told you that, parallel is fine you just need the pumps to back it up

all four of my 7970s are in parallel as will my r9 290xs but i use 3-4 mcp 35x, although i am interested in the new swiftech pump we will see what that brings !!


----------



## skupples

It could just be a perfect storm. I happen to put the weakest card in the top slot, so it's working the hardest to keep up with the other two. These parts won't be coming out until I get the motherboard shroud, & tube res. When that comes in i'll re-tim, but I really don't think that's the issue.

Right, it's fine as long as the pump can handle it, i'm running the mcp35x2 & 100%, but still running serial in tri-sli is better. I might as well throw one of those in the basket as well when I pickup the tube res. Though, they tend to be perma-sold out.


----------



## Aftermath2006

Still cant get this OC going 4930k at 4.6 on prime for about 8 hours soon as i go for memory it crashes after 5 minutes running cas 9 2400 tridents any help would be great


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> who told you that, parallel is fine you just need the pumps to back it up
> 
> all four of my 7970s are in parallel as will my r9 290xs but i use *3-4* mcp 35x, although i am interested in the new swiftech pump we will see what that brings !!


I've been using one for a while now


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> Still cant get this OC going 4930k at 4.6 on prime for about 8 hours soon as i go for memory it crashes after 5 minutes running cas 9 2400 tridents any help would be great


I had a similiar issue i couldn't get my corsair dom stable @ 2133 @ cas 9 and batman arkam orgins was crashing every 20min or so I increased it to 10 and everything was stable i was finally able to play batman without fear


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> I had a similiar issue i couldn't get my corsair dom stable @ 2133 @ cas 9 and batman arkam orgins was crashing every 20min or so I increased it to 10 and everything was stable i was finally able to play batman without fear


I'm still trying to get batman: Origins, stutter free.


----------



## Aftermath2006

I tried lowering to 2133 and also loosening the timings and no go im not getting anything


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I guess you never owned any hi-fi audio equipment, or an ASUS soundcard. It's a relay clicking on the amp of the soundcard, and completely harmless.


yup I get this with my SB zx card !


----------



## yttocstfarc

Ok guys save me from my thoughts. I'm seriously considering stepping back from the Black Edition and go with Maximus VI Extreme and a 4770k. Not sure if I want to deal with the problems that some of you are having. And there is the cost thing I could save close to 500 bucks going the 4770k route. And I can do my current Black Edition build on a Maximus VI Extreme. Please share your thoughts and wisdom.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> who told you that, parallel is fine you just need the pumps to back it up
> 
> all four of my 7970s are in parallel as will my r9 290xs but i use *3-4* mcp 35x, although i am interested in the new swiftech pump we will see what that brings !!
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using one for a while now
Click to expand...

the new one that was just announced on swiftechs facebook page ?>>>
source
Quote:


> We are happy to inform our facebook friends that Swiftech will be present in Las Vegas during CES from Jan 7 to 10, at the Mandalay Tradewind suites. Please contact [email protected] to make an appointment.
> 
> We will be introducing several new product lines, including:
> 
> - The H220X cpu cooling kit, based on Swiftech's Patent Pending technology
> - The MCP50 high pressure pump
> - A limited edition of Komodo high-end modder's blocks for AMD and NVidia latest and greatest graphics cards ..
> - And more...
> 
> Here are some teaser pics of the new Limited Edition Komodo Line of products:
> (4 photos)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Ok guys save me from my thoughts. I'm seriously considering stepping back from the Black Edition and go with Maximus VI Extreme and a 4770k. Not sure if I want to deal with the problems that some of you are having. And there is the cost thing I could save close to 500 bucks going the 4770k route. And I can do my current Black Edition build on a Maximus VI Extreme. Please share your thoughts and wisdom.


in my humble opinions you should not be looking at a build like this if your wallet is telling you not to:/


----------



## skupples

New pump eh?! That sounds like fun... Wonder if it's DDC or d5. Been thinking about getting a second mcp35x2.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the new one that was just announced on swiftechs facebook page ?>>>
> source
> 
> in my humble opinions you should not be looking at a build like this if your wallet is telling you not to:/


Not really worried about the money. More price per use point. Will I ever use the system to its potential? That justifies spending the extra money?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What program are you using to monitor your temps? right now my idle temps on my Titans are 26C 26C 28C
> 
> 
> 
> I idle around 30c, with an 85f room. (florida) Once i'm in game i'll have ~35 on #1 & #2, but 40+ on #3. @ some point i'll pull it & re-tim, but i rarely mess up in the department, specially since I use coollabs ultra. I'm also running them in parallel, which I hear is not the best choice for tri-sli. Serial>parallel from what I understand with this configuration.
Click to expand...

I am running in Parallel right now with no issues maybe it is just air trapped in your gpu.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the new one that was just announced on swiftechs facebook page ?>>>
> source
> 
> in my humble opinions you should not be looking at a build like this if your wallet is telling you not to:/
> 
> 
> 
> Not really worried about the money. More price per use point. Will I ever use the system to its potential? That justifies spending the extra money?
Click to expand...

again how can i tell you that?

what do you use your system for ?

i do some rendering which will use 6+cores ( i also have an amd system that runs it as well. ) however the real reason i went with 2011 is to fight my friend at some epeen bench scores


----------



## skupples

speaking of which, up to 4.9! @ 1.42 (3930k)


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Ok I'm back with the RIV BE installed again. 99% sure I'm going to say the heck with it and just ignore that pop sound and keep it. I mean the board is just too gorgeous!


smart move


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The supreme FX is realtek, with realtek software
> 
> I noticed one pop @ power on, & the sound card pop. So, total of two pops...
> 
> BTW... #3 card is the top slot card correct? I have a pretty big temp discrepancy with #3, it's a good 5c hotter than the other two cards. I know I TIM'ed it right, wondering if this parallel bridge is the issue.


I have 3 pops at power on, like a machine gun


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> Still cant get this OC going 4930k at 4.6 on prime for about 8 hours soon as i go for memory it crashes after 5 minutes running cas 9 2400 tridents any help would be great


set all third timings to 7 will help stability.


----------



## asfgbdnf

I'm think of buying some EVGA GTX TITAN Backplates. 
Titans are on air at this moment, but eventually they're gonna on water. So just wonder can I keep the backplates on when I install the water cooling block (probably EK water block)


----------



## skupples

I believe you just need slightly longer screws.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I'm think of buying some EVGA GTX TITAN Backplates. Titans are on air at this moment, but eventually they're gonna on water. So just wonder can I keep the backplates on when I install the water cooling block (probably EK water block)
> 
> 
> 
> I believe you just need slightly longer screws.
Click to expand...

Yep.

Also not only do the backplates that match your blocks come with the right screws, they're usually thicker than the EVGA backplate & thus should offer slightly better passive cooling, though probably not that it would be noticeable either way.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yep.
> 
> Also not only do the backplates that match your blocks come with the right screws, they're usually thicker than the EVGA backplate & thus should offer slightly better passive cooling, though probably not that it would be noticeable either way.


Thanks for answers. But I believe there is one piece of water block that is attached to the back of card. You sure water block will still fit even with backplate on?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Thanks for answers. But I believe there is one piece of water block that is attached to the back of card. You sure water block will still fit even with backplate on?


The back plate normally mounts through the card into the water block. When you have block + back plate, the block is held on through the back plate in either 4 or 6 locations, can't remember exactly. also depends if you have short block or full block. You have a combo really, screws that mount to the card, & screws that mount through the back plate.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The back plate normally mounts through the card into the water block. When you have block + back plate, the block is held on through the back plate in either 4 or 6 locations, can't remember exactly. also depends if you have short block or full block. You have a combo really, screws that mount to the card, & screws that mount through the back plate.


thanks. could you suggest any places I can find the backplate? the places I looked at are all out of stock


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> thanks. could you suggest any places I can find the backplate? the places I looked at are all out of stock


I only deal with performance-pc's, & FrozenCPU, though if you are in europe it would be better to just go directly to the EK website.


----------



## szeged

blew up my psu last night trying to break 14k single gpu firestrike. heard a loud POP, thought it was the motherboard or gpu at first since i was letting the volts fly.

heres what happens now when using that psu in any rig




the end results were worth it imo











ordered a 1000w p2 from amazon, itll be here monday so i can get to work on breaking that 14k mark.


----------



## skupples

going with PSU. That's similar to what happens when you use the wrong plugs in a PSU...


----------



## szeged

yeah i pulled out a psu from another system to try it out after i calmed down from thinking i killed my gpu that can do 8500 on the mem lol. Rig fires right up when using another psu.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I only deal with performance-pc's, & FrozenCPU, though if you are in europe it would be better to just go directly to the EK website.


You misunderstood. I'm talking about where can I find the evga titan backplate, 
not EK water block
One more question, when install the water block on the back of graphic card, I think one must make sure the water block has perfect contact with the graphic card in order to get better conduction of heat.

I guess leave the back plate on will make the conduction of heat less efficient?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> blew up my psu last night trying to break 14k single gpu firestrike. heard a loud POP, thought it was the motherboard or gpu at first since i was letting the volts fly.
> 
> heres what happens now when using that psu in any rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the end results were worth it imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ordered a 1000w p2 from amazon, itll be here monday so i can get to work on breaking that 14k mark.


CPU freq = 175397712.0 Mhz, Quad channel RAM freq = 2 * 42956688 Mhz CL 9.
oh man, I'm so jealous.


----------



## szeged

lmao yeah idk why it did that, it was 4.9ghz and 2400mhz ram.


----------



## Mega Man

glad everything else is ok in your psu though !


----------



## szeged

lol Same I thought I killed my 5ghz 4930k at first or my 780ti that can do 1450/2125 lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Thanks for answers. But *I believe there is one piece of water block that is attached to the back of card*. You sure water block will still fit even with backplate on?


I don't know what titan waterblock you are planning on getting, but I don't think this is correct. It goes backplate > card > waterblock on the few gpu blocks that I've put on. I've never put waterblocks on any titans before though.

If you get the same brand backplate as the waterblock you get, you'll typically get a better / thicker backplate & thermal pads that offers increased passive cooling to the back of the card's vram, etc than the EVGA backplate and it will come with the correct screws for mounting the backplate and waterblock to your GPU. Again, at least that's the way it's always worked for every gpu block that I've installed.


----------



## skupples

If you are talking about the Aquacomputer active cooling backplate, it has issues fitting on this motherboard.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I don't know what titan waterblock you are planning on getting, but I don't think this is correct. It goes backplate > card > waterblock on the few gpu blocks that I've put on. I've never put waterblocks on any titans before though.
> 
> If you get the same brand backplate as the waterblock you get, you'll typically get a better / thicker backplate & thermal pads that offers increased passive cooling to the back of the card's vram, etc than the EVGA backplate and it will come with the correct screws for mounting the backplate and waterblock to your GPU. Again, at least that's the way it's always worked for every gpu block that I've installed.


I attached a picture of EVGA titan backplate at post #3319


----------



## wermad

Anyone have the EK block already fitted?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I attached a picture of EVGA titan backplate at post #3319


Yeah, I saw it, but I'm not really sure what that has to do with anything I wrote about.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I only Have the 8 pin Cpu power connector, will connecting the extra 4 pin make a difference?


----------



## skupples

Might as well connect it type of thing.


----------



## cadaveca

still waiting on VGAs.







So I decided I'd play with what I got:


----------



## Dantrax

If you're using SLI in slot 1 & slot 3 you should have X16 by X16. If you install any type of card into slot 4, does you're SLI degrade to X16 by X8 like it does on the RIVE ?


----------



## Dantrax

I'm going to find out for myself shortly as I start changing parts just wanting to save a step iif you will.


----------



## skupples

You can tell which slots are 8x ONLY & which slots are 16x capable by looking @ them. The ones that are 16x will have pins all the way down them on the board, & in the socket it's self. The sockets that are 8x will only have pins half way down them on the board, & in the slot it's self.

pci-e 1 & 3 are the only slots capable of 16x on this board.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> If you're using SLI in slot 1 & slot 3 you should have X16 by X16. If you install any type of card into slot 4, does you're SLI degrade to X16 by X8 like it does on the RIVE ?


Slots 1 and 4 are x16.
Slot 2 is x8.
Slot 3 is a PCIe x1


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I only Have the 8 pin Cpu power connector, will connecting the extra 4 pin make a difference?


my 3930k is at 5 ghz with only the 8 pin. Unless you do ln2, you should be fine


----------



## Dantrax

Posted before investigating for myself, but thanks skupples & Unicr0nhunter I just looked at the manual & realized it will be the same as the RIVE.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again how can i tell you that?
> 
> what do you use your system for ?
> 
> i do some rendering which will use 6+cores ( i also have an amd system that runs it as well. ) however the real reason i went with 2011 is to fight my friend at some epeen bench scores


These were my thoughts. I wanted to build a computer that I could dabble in the areas that I thought were interesting. Nvidia Surround gaming at 1080p, Tri sli, raid 0 ssds etc. and doing some minor Benchmarks. Heaven, Valley benchmarks etc. Not trying to beat the best or be the best. I do make the youtube how to videos for my MMO guild so the 6 cores might save me some time. As this is my first high end pc build and would be spending somewhere around 3k on it, I also wanted it to last cause with a baby on the way I doubt I would be able or have the opportunity to do it again anytime soon. (started the build before I found out.) I was hoping i could go 3-5 years before upgrading everything. And figured the Ivy E and the Black Edition would be the way to go. Might step up GPU when I see something that interest me in a few generations. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again how can i tell you that?
> 
> what do you use your system for ?
> 
> i do some rendering which will use 6+cores ( i also have an amd system that runs it as well. ) however the real reason i went with 2011 is to fight my friend at some epeen bench scores
> 
> 
> 
> These were my thoughts. I wanted to build a computer that I could dabble in the areas that I thought were interesting. Nvidia Surround gaming at 1080p, Tri sli, raid 0 ssds etc. and doing some minor Benchmarks. Heaven, Valley benchmarks etc. Not trying to beat the best or be the best. I do make the youtube how to videos for my MMO guild so the 6 cores might save me some time. As this is my first high end pc build and would be spending somewhere around 3k on it, I also wanted it to last cause with a baby on the way I doubt I would be able or have the opportunity to do it again anytime soon. (started the build before I found out.) I was hoping i could go 3-5 years before upgrading everything. And figured the Ivy E and the Black Edition would be the way to go. Might step up GPU when I see something that interest me in a few generations. Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

well with that, probably would not make a difference, would be a bit more future proof, but hey c2qs are more then enough for most people. even by todays standards.

but the 500 for the baby... well that would

best of luck with the baby !


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well with that, probably would not make a difference, would be a bit more future proof, but hey c2qs are more then enough for most people. even by todays standards.
> 
> but the 500 for the baby... well that would
> 
> best of luck with the baby !


Thanks. What are c2qs??


----------



## Mega Man

core 2 quad


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> software is a horrible thing to use for checking anything voltages related, there is 1 board that consistently reads 10v on the 12v


I heard that often, but in fact SW reading was nearly always very accurate on medium and high end boards, however I used ONLY programs from MB manufacturer, or programs that were certified to work with the board. I doubt anyone would take 10 V readings literally, when the reading would decrease by expected value on load, it's just bad offset. And considering number of different boards and revisions it's basically impossible for a generic program to have correct reading.

Actually, it's so common misconception when people are hearing about 2.6 V voltages on 5V lines they are insisting it must be bad SW reading. It wasn't, high end multimeter would read the same things, just my old PSU hated 70 C degree temperature. And PC even recovered without crashing from that voltage fluctuation. I then become suspicious and then ran some voltage reading programs on background.


----------



## koolmande

http://valid.canardpc.com/w0edbw







Sorry about the cpu link (used this for my cpu too, but it shows the mobo at the bottom left.)


----------



## hotrod717

Finally received my cpu and have it installed. Will be bench testing this for a week or so while finalizing my custom case configuration. After tearing down my 3770k set up, putting together the x79 set up and doing a fresh install of windows and updating drivers, I don't have the energy to to do much with it until I get some rest. Newer batch 4930k though shipped from Intel 12/16/13. Was up at the crack of dawn anticipating it's arrival.







Hopefully a decent chip.


----------



## skupples

Is that C02 hose? Like what is used in restaurants?

btw



pushing 1.5 because games like moar voltage than these canned stress tests it seems, & temps are great. The back plate mod is actually finally blowing hot air.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Is that C02 hose? Like what is used in restaurants?
> 
> btw
> 
> 
> 
> pushing 1.5 because games like moar voltage than these canned stress tests it seems, & temps are great. The back plate mod is actually finally blowing hot air.


Yep, cheap braided hose from Lowes. I like the look of it. :Shrugs: Seems to get some stain( from previous owners of some used components), but water stays crystal clear.









Have you changed any of your digi+ settings or are you leaving them on auto? I've heard that changing any of them will cause shutdowns. Stock Asus bios or Shamino's?


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> LoL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press the power button and two pops through my Klipsch 2.1, but really it's not that big of a deal.


I have my connected to my logitech with the optical digital output. Don't seem to do them pops. Looked at your Klipsch on amazon and it don't seem to have optical inputs? If it does, would try that.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Yep, cheap braided hose from Lowes. I like the look of it. :Shrugs: Seems to get some stain( from previous owners of some used components), but water stays crystal clear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you changed any of your digi+ settings or are you leaving them on auto? I've heard that changing any of them will cause shutdowns. Stock Asus bios or Shamino's?


stock asus bios, i have changed quite a few of the digi settings, iv'e yet to experience any shut downs. It's a 3930k, mem @ 2133


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I have my connected to my logitech with the optical digital output. Don't seem to do them pops. Looked at your Klipsch on amazon and it don't seem to have optical inputs? If it does, would try that.


Holy crap sakes, you're right. I just confirmed this with my HT amp. No pop at all!









Time to get some new speakers...


----------



## skupples

BTW, finally took my headset off, & did a cold boot. 1, 2, 3, clicks.



sigh, can't tell what's unstable. AC4 is freezing with in minutes of logging in now. It never crashes to blue screen or anything ,it just freezes, forcing me to alt-tab out. I keep increasing volts, but nothing seems to fix it.


----------



## USFORCES

Does EK or anyone make a full water block that fits this board?


----------



## szeged

Yep it just recently released.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

So I figured out what I can do:





Just buy these and no more snap crackle pop!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Does EK or anyone make a full water block that fits this board?


As Sz said, the EK block just dropped, I believe it was Koolance who said they would be releasing one as well.

THAT"S IT! I'm convinced it's the god damned game, & not my CPU OC. If you spend too much time farming the starting area (while the fat brit waits for you outside the bar)it just derps up & eventually breaks your save.


----------



## rabidz7

Board ordered!!!!!!


----------



## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> As Sz said, the EK block just dropped, I believe it was Koolance who said they would be releasing one as well.
> 
> THAT"S IT! I'm convinced it's the god damned game, & not my CPU OC. If you spend too much time farming the starting area (while the fat brit waits for you outside the bar)it just derps up & eventually breaks your save.


XSPC mate but wouldnt be surprised to see a Koolance one


----------



## LCRava

Bought an EK block directly from them on 12/25 and they still have not shipped it







.

Has anyone bought directly from them before? How long does it take for them to ship it ?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Bought an EK block directly from them on 12/25 and they still have not shipped it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Has anyone bought directly from them before? How long does it take for them to ship it ?


If you go to the ek club, its been mentioned a few times their office is on hiatus for the holiday*s*. Typical for many small companies, just be patient and they'll get your items out soon. No point in pm the Ek rep as they're all pretty frustrated ppl keep nagging about this same thing.

I'm waiting on the crop circle version which has yet to be released. I'll just order it from a US retailer.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Bought an EK block directly from them on 12/25 and they still have not shipped it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Has anyone bought directly from them before? How long does it take for them to ship it ?


They are on vacation. I ordered on the 24th. According to their scheduled, last week orders will ship on Monday.


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you go to the ek club, its been mentioned a few times their office is on hiatus for the holiday*s*. Typical for many small companies, just be patient and they'll get your items out soon. No point in pm the Ek rep as they're all pretty frustrated ppl keep nagging about this same thing.
> 
> I'm waiting on the crop circle version which has yet to be released. I'll just order it from a US retailer.


Thanks for the info Wermad. I am not going to PM the rep







. I was going to get the "crop circle" same as you, but then decided to go with the clean CSQ since I am sick of waiting (changed the tops of my CPU block and the RAM blocks) as this is the only thing I need to finish my build


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

When I order from EK directly, I use the 2 day shipping DHL option and get it in two days.

Heard the same thing , EK is on an extended holiday!


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> They are on vacation. I ordered on the 24th. According to their scheduled, last week orders will ship on Monday.


I figured. Thanks for the info







.


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> When I order from EK directly, I use the 2 day shipping DHL option and get it in two days.
> 
> Heard the same thing , EK is on an extended holiday!


Thank you sir


----------



## Siamak8286

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> So I figured out what I can do:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just buy these and no more snap crackle pop!


Hey bud, I have the same exact issue as you, I even exchanged the board once but the same exact issue still present, as soon as I turn the PC on it has 2 LOUD pops, Im using the logitech Z623 speakers and I also tried the Asus Orion stereo headphones as well and same issue, can you please tell me if that cable you have posted worked for you or not? did you even tried them yet? also can u send me a link to them please? I waited 2.5 months for this board and now I feel so sad and annoyed with this simple issue.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Went through my house amp with the Toslink earlier tonight. I put the amp to full tilt in volume and no pop, thump ect.

So tomorrow, I'm buying the items I posted in those pics and I'm sure it'll be good.

*http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX654*

*http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX29601*


----------



## Ftimster

kind of ironic I've been using the optical out for some time and all this talk of poping has had me listening for it glad you guys found a way around it I've always used the optical out on my board for my Bose gs series ii`s IMO the onboard sound is the excellent


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> When I order from EK directly, I use the 2 day shipping DHL option and get it in two days.
> 
> Heard the same thing , EK is on an extended holiday!


What's it look like any photos or links?

Edit found it.

http://news.softpedia.com/newsImage/EK-Releases-Water-Block-for-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-Motherboard-412504-2.jpg/


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> So I figured out what I can do:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just buy these and no more snap crackle pop!


*edited*


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Went through my house amp with the Toslink earlier tonight. I put the amp to full tilt in volume and no pop, thump ect.
> 
> So tomorrow, I'm buying the items I posted in those pics and I'm sure it'll be good.
> 
> *http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX654*
> 
> *http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX29601*


Audio isn't my area of expertise, but isn't the cable for optical audio, and the connector (coupler) for connecting copper wire cables?

To use the optical output with a regular old analog input amp/speaker setup, seems you're going to have to have an optical/digital to analog converter in there somewhere.

Also seems they have a pretty wide range of prices, depending on capabilities:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/search.asp?keywords=toslink+to+analog+audio+converter&sort=1&recs=30

Darlene


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Thanks. What are c2qs??


After much thought. I really want the Black Edition. I'm gonna go with the 4820k. For the extra $$ for my purposes I just don't think its worth the extra $$ going with the 4930k. $529.99 4930k $269.99 4820k at Microcenter. That's almost 300 bucks. and the difference between the 2 motherboards 4770k Maximus VI Extreme and the 4820k Rampage IV BE is roughly $120. I would rather have the BE and dropping from the 4930k gives me some breathing room for the final touches on the build. Thanks for your input it was helpful!


----------



## skupples

Anyone else notice the board applies a bit more voltage than you set? I'm not using offset, just manual, but i'm getting ~.02 more than I tell it to run @... Normal?

I'm thinking about checking out the ivy-E 4 core as well Ytt, heard it's a badass little clocker.

actually, it's more like .04... Do any of the digi settings increase vcore? As I said above, i'm just using manual adjust, not off set... Btw! Running 5.1 now, but the damned board is pumping 1.55 when I set 1.51

aida64 is reading ~1.4, cpu-Z is reading ~1.56 when under load... I have LLC @ 75%


----------



## coolzizo

Hi Guys i already buy all parts of the pc Expet the Motherboard Asus Rampage IV Black Edition.
i want 2 pices not one cuz for my friend also ]

i got to us.ncix.com the massage appir for me (( This item '90951' cannot be added to your cart, this product is not availble!))

hmmm and from newegg.com i cannot cuz they said ur Credit card should from usa adress and also the bank

but if i buy from amazon.com its good or what u suggest for me guys......


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Hi skupples

In my life i have one 3930K over 1.5 V this chip dies, 2 month after this high voltage.
Stay under 1.45 V if not, the chip die under a haf year.
Sandy over 1.45V degrades very quickly.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi skupples
> 
> In my life i have one 3930K over 1.5 V this chip dies, 2 month after this high voltage.
> Stay under 1.45 V if not the chip die under a haf year.
> Sandy over 1.45V degrades very quickly.












but I think I can run 5.2 @ 1.5!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolzizo*
> 
> Hi Guys i already buy all parts of the pc Expet the Motherboard Asus Rampage IV Black Edition.
> i want 2 pices not one cuz for my friend also ]
> 
> i got to us.ncix.com the massage appir for me (( This item '90951' cannot be added to your cart, this product is not availble!))
> 
> hmmm and from newegg.com i cannot cuz they said ur Credit card should from usa adress and also the bank
> 
> but if i buy from amazon.com its good or what u suggest for me guys......


I believe you need a state side forwarding address to order from ncix or newegg.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Skupples your chip die, trust me, this chip that i have killed is now on my bunch of keys.


----------



## skupples




----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Stay sensible a dead CPU brings you nothing. 1,45V really, really max.
Do not go over it not even a small few at all. 1.45 max then stop.
Get a multimeter to see what the board applies exactly to Vcore.
4.8GHz is still fast enough and i think you can hit that easy with your chip.

Get LLC to high is the best sweetspot, it don´t overshoot to much.


----------



## coolzizo

i have address from myus.com to sent the shipping pakages to other coutry.

the state is florida FL


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone else notice the board applies a bit more voltage than you set? I'm not using offset, just manual, but i'm getting ~.02 more than I tell it to run @... Normal?
> 
> I'm thinking about checking out the ivy-E 4 core as well Ytt, heard it's a badass little clocker.
> 
> actually, it's more like .04... Do any of the digi settings increase vcore? As I said above, i'm just using manual adjust, not off set... Btw! Running 5.1 now, but the damned board is pumping 1.55 when I set 1.51
> 
> aida64 is reading ~1.4, cpu-Z is reading ~1.56 when under load... I have LLC @ 75%


Most Asus mobo's do this. Everyone I've had, has this. LLC would of course increase you vcore if you have it set above high. Is this your 1st Asus mobo? Try lowering LLC, you won't overshoot as much. You might need to up voltage a bit if you already determined overclock stability.


----------



## coolzizo

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I believe you need a state side forwarding address to order from ncix or newegg.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolzizo*
> 
> i have address from myus.com to sent the shipping pakages to other coutry.
> 
> the state is florida FL


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Most Asus mobo's do this. Everyone I've had, has this. LLC would of course increase you vcore if you have it set above high. Is this your 1st Asus mobo? Try lowering LLC, you won't overshoot as much. You might need to up voltage a bit if you already determined overclock stability.


First asus LGA2011 board... Wasn't this extreme on my Max V formula.

Not sure what to tell you. We have had a few other people from Saudi Arabia order through Newegg via stateside forwarding address just fine. Though, they may be using American Express or some other US creditor.


----------



## coolzizo

so maybe if i but the address it will work from newegg.com

do u suggest for me amazon or....... no


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> First asus LGA2011 board... Wasn't this extreme on my Max V formula.
> 
> Not sure what to tell you. We have had a few other people from Saudi Arabia order through Newegg via stateside forwarding address just fine. Though, they may be using American Express or some other US creditor.


I previously had the MVF and it was a bit of a jump to the MVE. This bios has seems very similar to that. Just tried the auto 4.5 to see if it would boot and seems good at 1.4v (1.408v) Probably just try lowering vcore until I reach instability and bump it back up a bit to find a base oc. Hoping this chip is good.


----------



## Aftermath2006

ok so got this 4930k to 4.531 at 1.4 volts and memory at 2198 at cas 9 on 2400 tridents 13 hours prime stable temps got a little high expected better with 2 480 rads but still manageable ran IBT and passed but Gflops seem real low for this chip like 139 anybody got any kind of insight on this


----------



## skupples

OK, so I have 1.52 seemingly stable @ 5.1 now, instead of 1.54







i'm starting to like this 3930k. Also, got the trident X 2400 kit @ 2133, w/ cas 9, and -2 on all the other stock first timings.

picked up intel burn warranty, in case she goes pop.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Audio isn't my area of expertise, but isn't the cable for optical audio, and the connector (coupler) for connecting copper wire cables?
> 
> To use the optical output with a regular old analog input amp/speaker setup, seems you're going to have to have an optical/digital to analog converter in there somewhere.
> 
> Also seems they have a pretty wide range of prices, depending on capabilities:
> 
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/search.asp?keywords=toslink+to+analog+audio+converter&sort=1&recs=30
> 
> Darlene


Yup, I think you're right.

I'll have to get a digital to analog converter adapter instead. Or just some new speakers.

Thanks for the information.


----------



## hotrod717

Not sure what the hubbub is with memory. My 2000mhz Flares @ 2400 9-11-11-28-1t on stock voltage. I'm guessing this is easier with Ivy-e and it's stronger imc than Sandy-e??


----------



## Doug2507

http://valid.canardpc.com/k7wr1t


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone else notice the board applies a bit more voltage than you set? I'm not using offset, just manual, but i'm getting ~.02 more than I tell it to run @... Normal?
> 
> I'm thinking about checking out the ivy-E 4 core as well Ytt, heard it's a badass little clocker.
> 
> actually, it's more like .04... Do any of the digi settings increase vcore? As I said above, i'm just using manual adjust, not off set... Btw! Running 5.1 now, but the damned board is pumping 1.55 when I set 1.51
> 
> aida64 is reading ~1.4, cpu-Z is reading ~1.56 when under load... I have LLC @ 75%


i think neither aida64 nor cpu-z give correct Vcore voltage reading at this moment. I report this over-voltage problem here a few ago ago, could you check the DRAM voltage, it will surprise you.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> i think neither aida64 nor cpu-z give correct Vcore voltage reading at this moment. I report this over-voltage problem here a few ago ago, could you check the DRAM voltage, it will surprise you.


aida is definitely off, reading 1.375 when the bios is set to 1.475... I have a DMM, but it only has prongs, can I still read from the board with it?


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> kind of ironic I've been using the optical out for some time and all this talk of poping has had me listening for it glad you guys found a way around it I've always used the optical out on my board for my Bose gs series ii`s IMO the onboard sound is the excellent


I like the optical audio connection on all my devices also. I use optical on my Mac Mini, PC, DVD Player, Xbox (original believe it or not), xbox 360, etc etc.
Seems the easiest to hook up and as far as I know one of the best connections, but you do need a surround sound with optical in. What I did was buy a electronic splitter, that lets me plug different optical audio into it and switch to the one I want to go into my Logitech, as it sadly only has one optical input.


----------



## Doug2507

Optical is a mediocre audio connection. Async usb is far superior. If you're doing it all digital try Pure Music.


----------



## centvalny

Better imc than my haswell

Quad DDR3 3350

CPU, Rams air



http://imgur.com/ObRbO05


----------



## Siamak8286

This is interesting, I just went through a 2nd replacement and still have the same exact double POPPING sound as soon as I press the power button. I'm using a standard Logitech Z623 2.1 speakers, tried Asus Orion stereo headset and my iphone headphones and the issue is same, all of which are connected ONLY to the green audio port on the on board sound card. from what I searched, i've only seen few people here having the same issue, can some of you good folks please try and connect a stereo source to the green port and see if does the same double POPPING sound or not. if and when you do, please make sure the speakers are turned on before turning the PC on. I really love the MB and my setup but this is extremely annoying.


----------



## wermad

Is this only on startup? I typically leave my rig in sleep.


----------



## Siamak8286

I just tried it and it happens when the PC wakes up from sleep as well.


----------



## necro1

my pc does the same thing....it makes a loud popping noise when the pc is first turned on and when waking from sleep or hibernate.....im guessing a future driver updater will fix this as its the boards output that is generating it upon output.....its a common thing among stereo and audio equipment....its from when the audio outputs are turned on while the amplifier thats plugged into them is already on, do it in reverse (turn the speakers on after the pc) to avoid this....at least until the outputs are managed better...hoping its a driver issue on an immature board


----------



## necro1

my corsair ax1200 is holding up like a champ


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necro1*
> 
> 
> my corsair ax1200 is holding up like a champ


you do know it will pull more then 1200w at the wall right? it supplies 1200w not uses....

in other news my board has coil wine, very feint and i can only hear it with the doors off.

@skupples i dont know what you mean by prongs? if you mean leads there are points ( iirc on the location ) next to the 24 pin for you to test


----------



## wermad

He's pulling ~1250w if the kaw is good. Mine went bad after a couple of years and started giving +1500w on a triple 780 SB lga1155 rig. No way I was pulling that. It was time to toss it.


----------



## szeged

I wish o had a KAW hooked up when my psu blew it's lid lol

Hopefully this new one will get me to 14.1+ in single firestrike


----------



## unph4zed

My AX1200i is shutting down with 3 reference 780s, 4930k, and 64gb of Ripjaws. Need to do more testing but once I get the Vccsa, Vcore, and Dimms cranked up it immediately shuts down when I start IBT.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> My AX1200i is shutting down with 3 reference 780s, 4930k, and 64gb of Ripjaws. Need to do more testing but once I get the Vccsa, Vcore, and Dimms cranked up it immediately shuts down when I start IBT.


With no load on the gpus I don't think it would be PSU related, although when overclocking & loading the cards you may run into a limit.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you do know it will pull more then 1200w at the wall right? it supplies 1200w not uses....
> 
> in other news my board has coil wine, very feint and i can only hear it with the doors off.
> 
> @skupples i dont know what you mean by prongs? if you mean leads there are points ( iirc on the location ) next to the 24 pin for you to test


all I have are the needle points, no claws or anything.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Bought an EK block directly from them on 12/25 and they still have not shipped it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Has anyone bought directly from them before? How long does it take for them to ship it ?


I ordered one from them in the 25th too. My guess I'd that they're closed for the holidays still. You know Europeans typically get way longer vacations than we do in the states.


----------



## cadaveca

My PSU just blew up, hopefully it didn't take my board out with it. Didn't someone else have a PSU pop?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> My PSU just blew up, hopefully it didn't take my board out with it. Didn't someone else have a PSU pop?


That was me lol, which psu was it?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you do know it will pull more then 1200w at the wall right? it supplies 1200w not uses....
> 
> in other news my board has coil wine, very feint and i can only hear it with the doors off.
> 
> @skupples i dont know what you mean by prongs? if you mean leads there are points ( iirc on the location ) next to the 24 pin for you to test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all I have are the needle points, no claws or anything.
Click to expand...

thats all you need


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> That was me lol, which psu was it?


Antec TPQ-1200-OC

Seems it took out my GTX780 with it. Rest of the rig seems OK so far on an crappy PSU.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I wish o had a KAW hooked up when my psu blew it's lid lol
> 
> Hopefully this new one will get me to 14.1+ in single firestrike


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> My PSU just blew up, hopefully it didn't take my board out with it. Didn't someone else have a PSU pop?


Makes me feel a lot better with both a 1200W and a 1000W in my build for the system and GPU's.

Fans and pumps are on additional auxiliary supplies so the main ones don't have anything but the big stuff.

I like to keep the PSU's below 75 or 80% capacity max.

Darlene


----------



## MrTOOSHORT




----------



## wermad

Tpq is a pretty good unit. I sense something unusual happened. Even the best units can die prematurely all of a sudden.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Makes me feel a lot better with both a 1200W and a 1000W in my build for the system and GPU's.
> 
> Fans and pumps are on additional auxiliary supplies so the main ones don't have anything but the big stuff.
> 
> I like to keep the PSU's below 75 or 80% capacity max.
> 
> Darlene


A single GTX780 and 4.6 GHz @ 1.3V is hardly much of a load.







Fortunately, it seems all-OK...just gotta try some stability testing.

But I agree, if anything, I like a bit more headroom than that. So with plans to add two more cards, I needed a PSU upgrade anyway.









What's really funny is my wife standing next to the PC talking to me when it happened, so there'll be no complaints when I buy the replacement.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tpq is a pretty good unit. I sense something unusual happened. Even the best units can die prematurely all of a sudden.


It's had a few years of abuse, so it didn't really surprise me much. It made a loud bang once...my wife and I both looked at the PC..then it did it again...and I saw a white flash in the PSU...and then quickly pulled the killswitch on the power bar. Could have just been it's timely end...that PSU has literally travelled around the world, east-to-west.


----------



## szeged

i think i just had a defective unit from the start, ive used evga psus for months now with no problems, this one ive had for less than a week and it goes belly up at the first sign of stress


----------



## mfranco702

Anyone here willing to share some OC settings and start from there, my build is finally complete and I want to start doing some tweaking to run some benchs. this thread is kind of long to look post by post, any help would be appreciated. thanks people.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> That was me lol, which psu was it?
> 
> 
> 
> Antec TPQ-1200-OC
> 
> Seems it took out my GTX780 with it. Rest of the rig seems OK so far on an crappy PSU.
Click to expand...

>.< .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I wish o had a KAW hooked up when my psu blew it's lid lol
> 
> Hopefully this new one will get me to 14.1+ in single firestrike
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> My PSU just blew up, hopefully it didn't take my board out with it. Didn't someone else have a PSU pop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Makes me feel a lot better with both a 1200W and a 1000W in my build for the system and GPU's.
> 
> Fans and pumps are on additional auxiliary supplies so the main ones don't have anything but the big stuff.
> 
> I like to keep the PSU's below 75 or 80% capacity max.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

yes, tha tis why my amd quadfire has 2500w, and this one will too, esp when i get quadfire 290xs


----------



## wermad

I ran a quad GTX 480 setup oc to 950mhz each w/ a 3820 @ 4.7 all on an ST1500







. No need to freak out because of pumps and fans







.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Oh, and some wc stuff and fans and stuff


----------



## Akadaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702*
> 
> Anyone here willing to share some OC settings and start from there, my build is finally complete and I want to start doing some tweaking to run some benchs. this thread is kind of long to look post by post, any help would be appreciated. thanks people.


Was that rig really the course of your divorce? funny rig name.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> ok so got this 4930k to 4.531 at 1.4 volts and memory at 2198 at cas 9 on 2400 tridents 13 hours prime stable temps got a little high expected better with 2 480 rads but still manageable ran IBT and passed but Gflops seem real low for this chip like 139 anybody got any kind of insight on this


PM SENT


----------



## centvalny

After couple of years, even good psu will degraded. Time to replace it

I have a few of "still working" old 1200 watter, I won't run it especially with RIVBE oc


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> My AX1200i is shutting down with 3 reference 780s, 4930k, and 64gb of Ripjaws. Need to do more testing but once I get the Vccsa, Vcore, and Dimms cranked up it immediately shuts down when I start IBT.


I had this same issue I removed 32gig of ram and I am good to go


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthMuse*
> 
> Was that rig really the course of your divorce? funny rig name.


Lol. My rig was definitely a contributing factor to my imminent divorce.


----------



## necro1

Quote:


> you do know it will pull more then 1200w at the wall right? it supplies 1200w not uses....


yes i am aware...but at 88% efficiency that translates to a little over 1230 watts output...pushing it to its rated limits...
Quote:


> Mine went bad after a couple of years and started giving +1500w on a triple 780 SB lga1155 rig. No way I was pulling that. It was time to toss it.


the kaw is brand new and this is its first use...

and im running triple GTX570 clasifieds so i can see how triple 780s would show as 1500watts.....a friend of mine runs two 580 classys and hits 1300+ on his output when he was running his 1155 board......1500 for triple 780s is believable in my opinion
Quote:


> in other news my board has coil wine, very feint and i can only hear it with the doors off.


what is coil wine?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Ok I'm back with the RIV BE installed again. 99% sure I'm going to say the heck with it and just ignore that pop sound and keep it. I mean the board is just too gorgeous!


GRATS AND WB!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Finally received my cpu and have it installed. Will be bench testing this for a week or so while finalizing my custom case configuration. After tearing down my 3770k set up, putting together the x79 set up and doing a fresh install of windows and updating drivers, I don't have the energy to to do much with it until I get some rest. Newer batch 4930k though shipped from Intel 12/16/13. Was up at the crack of dawn anticipating it's arrival.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully a decent chip.


w00 we both have the same CPU block! What'd u get for GPU blocks ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Board ordered!!!!!!


Grats post a pic of the order and I'll add you!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Makes me feel a lot better with both a 1200W and a 1000W in my build for the system and GPU's.
> 
> Fans and pumps are on additional auxiliary supplies so the main ones don't have anything but the big stuff.
> 
> I like to keep the PSU's below 75 or 80% capacity max.
> 
> Darlene


Ahh this is what i"m thinking of doing, just gonna grab a 1k W plat from Fry's tomorrow and load it up next to my 1200, I got smashed for considering the 1500W nexus from eVGA as well as the 1500Plat from their other name by one of the well established PSU gurus on here. Don't think I've ever heard of people w/ these issues but then again I don't know enough to argue only enough to ask questions.

Again sorry for late updates, went horseback a couple days ago and the kwif's horse sniffed the horses butt in front of it which caused that horse to kick theirs and throw them from the horse and shattered their arm, so updated while they're in surgery right now. Thought it was over but they're still in there, praying things go well since it shattered in a few locations


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> This is interesting, I just went through a 2nd replacement and still have the same exact double POPPING sound as soon as I press the power button. I'm using a standard Logitech Z623 2.1 speakers, tried Asus Orion stereo headset and my iphone headphones and the issue is same, all of which are connected ONLY to the green audio port on the on board sound card. from what I searched, i've only seen few people here having the same issue, can some of you good folks please try and connect a stereo source to the green port and see if does the same double POPPING sound or not. if and when you do, please make sure the speakers are turned on before turning the PC on. I really love the MB and my setup but this is extremely annoying.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> aida is definitely off, reading 1.375 when the bios is set to 1.475... I have a DMM, but it only has prongs, can I still read from the board with it?


same problem here, I think my rig makes 3 popping sound during start-up like a machine gun


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> My AX1200i is shutting down with 3 reference 780s, 4930k, and 64gb of Ripjaws. Need to do more testing but once I get the Vccsa, Vcore, and Dimms cranked up it immediately shuts down when I start IBT.


this is the random shut-down problem we are talking about here.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Antec TPQ-1200-OC
> 
> Seems it took out my GTX780 with it. Rest of the rig seems OK so far on an crappy PSU.


Antec HCP series seems fantastic.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Antec HCP series seems fantastic.


I got an Antec HCP-1300 Platinum. They are top quality PSU's. Only issue is they suck for sleeving. I got like 6 dbl wires and a triple wire on my 24Pin.

Also, just a friendly reminder, try to use "Edit" instead of posting back2back2back









Or for multi-quoting just click "Multi" next to all the posts you wanna quote, then after you hit Multi on the last one, hit "Quote"


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I got an Antec HCP-1300 Platinum. They are top quality PSU's. Only issue is they suck for sleeving. I got like 6 dbl wires and a triple wire on my 24Pin.
> 
> Also, just a friendly reminder, try to use "Edit" instead of posting back2back2back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or for multi-quoting just click "Multi" next to all the posts you wanna quote, then after you hit Multi on the last one, hit "Quote"


thanks for the tips.
Regarding the sleeving problem, you could buy sleeved cables, corsair makes multi-colour sleeved PSU cables.


----------



## szeged

Buying pre sleeved cables is lame imo, also they look awful imo.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> this is the random shut-down problem we are talking about here.


Yes but not exactly random anymore? It can easily be tested with Prime95, IBT or LinX.







Definitely not a PSU issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> same problem here, I think my rig makes 3 popping sound during start-up like a machine gun


I quickly tested this with my crappy Creative T40 speakers and no pops when I started my PC with speakers on. I use Xonar Essence One DAC normally to connect my two PCs. Does volume level in speakers have something to do about it?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> I quickly tested this with my crappy Creative T40 speakers and no pops when I started my PC with speakers on. I use Xonar Essence One DAC normally to connect my two PCs. Does volume level in speakers have something to do about it?


Dunno, I use crappy speaker which is integrated in my monitor.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Dunno, I use crappy speaker which is integrated in my monitor.


Thanks, I could test integrated speakers too. I'll have to take a look at it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I ran a quad GTX 480 setup oc to 950mhz each w/ a 3820 @ 4.7 all on an ST1500
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . No need to freak out because of pumps and fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and some wc stuff and fans and stuff


heh i can easily trip ocp on my 1250w, without even suicide runs on my gpus, people never realize how easy it is to hit 300w per gpu ( 7970 ) when oced, let alone with my cpu
so i went with 2500w because i cant stand having 2 that are different, and i would do it again [email protected] ( and i am tx10-d ) thankfully as i am running 220v to each, i only need 2 dedicated circuits and i can piggy back the plugs @
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthMuse*
> 
> Was that rig really the course of your divorce? funny rig name.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol. My rig was definitely a contributing factor to my imminent divorce.
Click to expand...



















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necro1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> you do know it will pull more then 1200w at the wall right? it supplies 1200w not uses....
> 
> 
> 
> yes i am aware...but at 88% efficiency that translates to a little over 1230 watts output...pushing it to its rated limits...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Mine went bad after a couple of years and started giving +1500w on a triple 780 SB lga1155 rig. No way I was pulling that. It was time to toss it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> the kaw is brand new and this is its first use...
> 
> and im running triple GTX570 clasifieds so i can see how triple 780s would show as 1500watts.....a friend of mine runs two 580 classys and hits 1300+ on his output when he was running his 1155 board......1500 for triple 780s is believable in my opinion
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> in other news my board has coil wine, very feint and i can only hear it with the doors off.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> what is coil wine?
Click to expand...

fyi all good psus have a buffer past their rated limit

coil wine if the coils actually vibrating and making a high pitch wine some can not hear it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Ok I'm back with the RIV BE installed again. 99% sure I'm going to say the heck with it and just ignore that pop sound and keep it. I mean the board is just too gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GRATS AND WB!!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Finally received my cpu and have it installed. Will be bench testing this for a week or so while finalizing my custom case configuration. After tearing down my 3770k set up, putting together the x79 set up and doing a fresh install of windows and updating drivers, I don't have the energy to to do much with it until I get some rest. Newer batch 4930k though shipped from Intel 12/16/13. Was up at the crack of dawn anticipating it's arrival.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully a decent chip.
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> w00 we both have the same CPU block! What'd u get for GPU blocks ?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Board ordered!!!!!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Grats post a pic of the order and I'll add you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Makes me feel a lot better with both a 1200W and a 1000W in my build for the system and GPU's.
> 
> Fans and pumps are on additional auxiliary supplies so the main ones don't have anything but the big stuff.
> 
> I like to keep the PSU's below 75 or 80% capacity max.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ahh this is what i"m thinking of doing, just gonna grab a 1k W plat from Fry's tomorrow and load it up next to my 1200, I got smashed for considering the 1500W nexus from eVGA as well as the 1500Plat from their other name by one of the well established PSU gurus on here. Don't think I've ever heard of people w/ these issues but then again I don't know enough to argue only enough to ask questions.
> 
> Again sorry for late updates, went horseback a couple days ago and the kwif's horse sniffed the horses butt in front of it which caused that horse to kick theirs and throw them from the horse and shattered their arm, so updated while they're in surgery right now. Thought it was over but they're still in there, praying things go well since it shattered in a few locations
Click to expand...

:/ best wishes !!!!


----------



## xarot

By the way I am not very convinced with quality of ASUS motherboards anymore. My brand new, never opened board was full of fingerprints, especially a small but fatty finger on the BIOS battery and multiple fingerprints on heatsink under the board. Okay, of course there are people working at the factory but it doesn't look very cool on a pricey board. I have two BE boards, of which another of them has never been used yet, and also has some fingerprints.









This is also what I found from my first board, the retailer would want to look at it themselves but I would not want to take my fully working rig apart for this, what are your opinions please? It's actually very, very hard to see if you're not taking a very close look, this is what happens when you've worked in RMA in the past taking a look at every motherboard the customers return. To me it looks like it could even be a poor lacquer job from ASUS over the copper leads (or whatever it's called in English, I don't know).







For now I've tried to talk to retailer for keeping the board and if any issues occur they would not blame me then, over here we always deal with warranty through the retailer. The funny thing is that I've worked in that store for nearly four years in the past, but as people come and go, not easy to know anyone.

I don't know if anything can be seen in the pic, I've added a red circle there...


----------



## Siamak8286

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Yes but not exactly random anymore? It can easily be tested with Prime95, IBT or LinX.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely not a PSU issue.
> I quickly tested this with my crappy Creative T40 speakers and no pops when I started my PC with speakers on. I use Xonar Essence One DAC normally to connect my two PCs. Does volume level in speakers have something to do about it?


Thats because you are using a dedicated sound card, use the on board sound card and use a regular 3.5mm green jack on the back of the Motherboard with the speakers on and see.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> GRATS AND WB!!
> w00 we both have the same CPU block! What'd u get for GPU blocks ?
> Grats post a pic of the order and I'll add you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ahh this is what i"m thinking of doing, just gonna grab a 1k W plat from Fry's tomorrow and load it up next to my 1200, I got smashed for considering the 1500W nexus from eVGA as well as the 1500Plat from their other name by one of the well established PSU gurus on here. Don't think I've ever heard of people w/ these issues but then again I don't know enough to argue only enough to ask questions.
> 
> Again sorry for late updates, went horseback a couple days ago and the kwif's horse sniffed the horses butt in front of it which caused that horse to kick theirs and throw them from the horse and shattered their arm, so updated while they're in surgery right now. Thought it was over but they're still in there, praying things go well since it shattered in a few locations


Nice! I'm thinking of going with the EK clear csq for cpu block, to match the rest of my build. I have a EK Copper/Acetyl on my 290, but just purchased a Sapphire 290X with a EK Nickel/Plexi. So far having this rig 2 days - [email protected] 1.4v., #3 on 3dmark11 Top 30, and I need to change my shorts!







.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamak8286*
> 
> Thats because you are using a dedicated sound card, use the on board sound card and use a regular 3.5mm green jack on the back of the Motherboard with the speakers on and see.


I used the green 3,5" jack when I tested. I meant I just use my DAC in everyday use and I rarely use the onboard.


----------



## Arm3nian

Speaking of psu's, mine came with a rebate. They want the original S/N UPC barcode sticker that is on the box, are they going to send it back? I don't want to void my warranty for $25

Edit: nvm, on evga's site they say the psu has a sticker on it aswell, but I can't see it, I guess the side is covered by my case.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> thanks for the tips.
> Regarding the sleeving problem, you could buy sleeved cables, corsair makes multi-colour sleeved PSU cables.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Buying pre sleeved cables is lame imo, also they look awful imo.


Yeah, i make my own cables. It's a fixable situation. It's just definitely in the negative column when considering a PSU

Since i'm building in a HAF XB and my PSU's hidden in the bottom layer, i'm probly just gonna shorten the stock cable to a few inches and use the 24Pin i already made as an extension


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> What's really funny is my wife standing next to the PC talking to me when it happened, so there'll be no complaints when I buy the replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's had a few years of abuse, so it didn't really surprise me much. It made a loud bang once...my wife and I both looked at the PC..then it did it again...and I saw a white flash in the PSU...and then quickly pulled the killswitch on the power bar. Could have just been it's timely end...that PSU has literally travelled around the world, east-to-west.


Perhaps you should use that high end multimeter. Actually you probably should test it if it survived that PSU explosion. So fare there are numerous AX1200 exploded some Supernovas exploded, and now one old Antec.


----------



## Slinky PC

2014 Highest-End Gaming Computing Desktop A.K.A. Slinky Supercomputer (



)

I still hate this bios 403


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> By the way I am not very convinced with quality of ASUS motherboards anymore. My brand new, never opened board was full of fingerprints, especially a small but fatty finger on the BIOS battery and multiple fingerprints on heatsink under the board. Okay, of course there are people working at the factory but it doesn't look very cool on a pricey board. I have two BE boards, of which another of them has never been used yet, and also has some fingerprints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is also what I found from my first board, the retailer would want to look at it themselves but I would not want to take my fully working rig apart for this, what are your opinions please? It's actually very, very hard to see if you're not taking a very close look, this is what happens when you've worked in RMA in the past taking a look at every motherboard the customers return. To me it looks like it could even be a poor lacquer job from ASUS over the copper leads (or whatever it's called in English, I don't know).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For now I've tried to talk to retailer for keeping the board and if any issues occur they would not blame me then, over here we always deal with warranty through the retailer. The funny thing is that I've worked in that store for nearly four years in the past, but as people come and go, not easy to know anyone.
> 
> I don't know if anything can be seen in the pic, I've added a red circle there...


i see it but to be honest i think you are being a bit nit picky ( which you have a right to do )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 2014 Highest-End Gaming Computing Desktop A.K.A. Slinky Supercomputer (
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I still hate this bios 403


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> By the way I am not very convinced with quality of ASUS motherboards anymore. My brand new, never opened board was full of fingerprints, especially a small but fatty finger on the BIOS battery and multiple fingerprints on heatsink under the board. Okay, of course there are people working at the factory but it doesn't look very cool on a pricey board. I have two BE boards, of which another of them has never been used yet, and also has some fingerprints.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is also what I found from my first board, the retailer would want to look at it themselves but I would not want to take my fully working rig apart for this, what are your opinions please? It's actually very, very hard to see if you're not taking a very close look, this is what happens when you've worked in RMA in the past taking a look at every motherboard the customers return. To me it looks like it could even be a poor lacquer job from ASUS over the copper leads (or whatever it's called in English, I don't know).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For now I've tried to talk to retailer for keeping the board and if any issues occur they would not blame me then, over here we always deal with warranty through the retailer. The funny thing is that I've worked in that store for nearly four years in the past, but as people come and go, not easy to know anyone.
> 
> I don't know if anything can be seen in the pic, I've added a red circle there...


This is why I cleanse my board in the fires of 99% rubbing alcohol. Clean all the traces, weld points, slots, just not the socket it's self.

Oh man! Slinky use sure use allot of CLU on your dies!


----------



## rabidz7

How do I delid my 4930K? I have access to a BGA oven, but how do I desolder the darn thing? I want this bare-die, like all my PowerPCs are.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> How do I delid my 4930K? I have access to a BGA oven, but how do I desolder the darn thing? I want this bare-die, like all my PowerPCs are.


you can't the IHS is solderd on. Not sure you want to even with the proper tools.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i see it but to be honest i think you are being a bit nit picky ( which you have a right to do )


Thanks well that's what I'm thinking myself too. Rep for opinion.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> How do I delid my 4930K? I have access to a BGA oven, but how do I desolder the darn thing? I want this bare-die, like all my PowerPCs are.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you can't the IHS is solderd on. Not sure you want to even with the proper tools.


No, for ivb-e it's impossible. There is a capacitor/ resistor (not sure, can't remember exactly) underneath the IHS edge. Once you delid your cpu, you definitely would cut that capacitor/ resistor.


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> No, for ivb-e it's impossible. There is a capacitor/ resistor (not sure, can't remember exactly) underneath the IHS edge. Once you delid your cpu, you definitely would cut that capacitor/ resistor.


Even with a soldering oven that is made for these kinds of things?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Even with a soldering oven that is made for these kinds of things?


dunno, possibly. But with a blade, forget about it.


----------



## USFORCES

Put it in a Bridgeport and shave it down


----------



## kpoeticg

The whole reason for delidding is because Intel's too cheap to use solder on their mainstream CPU's. Why would you ever consider delidding your 4930k?


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The whole reason for delidding is because Intel's too cheap to use solder on their mainstream CPU's. Why would you ever consider delidding your 4930k?


I want it bare die. I'm a PowerPC user. I don't like x86. x86 manufacturers add IHses to be mean, at least, that's what it feels like. IHSes freak me out.


----------



## kpoeticg

Not sure i understand the x86 reference. U talking about windows? Or do u prefer Linux or something?

The IHS is a piece of metal soldered to your CPU. Which makes it a closed circuit. People delid because intel uses thermal paste on their mainstream CPU's, so removing the IHS gives better conductivitiy. CPU -> Solder -> Metal seems like perfect conductivity to me. Unless i'm missing something, that's the same conductivity that's happening inside the die itself.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I have the same problem, Two pops after pressing power button. My speaker is built in the monitor connected through back panel


Hey guys, sound comments

First of all I am not getting that pop. I do hear a very soft click (under 9 db.) as my sound system goes from no signal to signal during boot but it is so soft that I hardly notice it. I have also replaced all my older cables and have had new components installed in my 8 year old KLIPSCH Ultra BASH amps. I have used a signal generator and scope and compared the output as well as the audio to my XONAR card and I am very pleasantly surprised that the sound from the RIVBE built in sound is almost exactly the same as the Xonar. At some frequency's better and at some worse but the differences are minor. One area it is better is that there is no measurable obtrusive bass at frequencies where there should be none thus making for a very VERY accurate reproduction.
If you have a sound system that actually used a mechanical relay to activate the system when signal starts I would dump it. Speakers in monitors are a joke and as they have no real internal dampening of course they will pop. (and they sound like crap)
I am using updated Klipsch 5.1 Ultra's with a 15" B&W 400 Wt sub connected to the low freq pass through. I have the woofers in the Klipsch unit set to cut off at 60Hz and the B&W to cut in at 90 Hz. I am using a Niko 440 Wt/ch power amp and a pair of BOSE 901's with the BOSE pre amp for front channels when I want concert sound.
No pops, no hash, no crossover just that very soft clip when the unit receives its first audio signal during boot. If you want to hear it and live in So Ca, come on over. I guarantee that you will hear studio quality sound. What I am amazed at however is that it sounds this good with the built in RIVBE built in electronics. For headphones I am using a KLIPSCH headphone Amp instead of the ASUS built in amp although the ASUS one does sound decent.
One negative however is that the REALTEK Audio Manager is not that intuitive and that to get the maximum control I had to set it to 7.1 even though I am really running 5.3 @9600Hz sampling rate.
While I am not as concerned as some of you if I get the maximum overclock possible of my CPU (I do greatly admire your detail and results however) I am an absolute fanatic on audio quality.


----------



## skupples

Best bet is to just lap the IHS, as many of them are not very flat.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Still no shipping confirmation from EK. Looks like my motherboard water blocks won't get here til next week if I'm lucky.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Still no shipping confirmation from EK. Looks like my motherboard water blocks won't get here til next week if I'm lucky.


i'm still waiting on the shipping conformation of my RMA.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> i'm still waiting on the shipping conformation of my RMA.


Dang. That's been a good while.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Still no shipping confirmation from EK. Looks like my motherboard water blocks won't get here til next week if I'm lucky.


My order still shows "processing" as well, so maybe tomorrow we'll see a tracking number, or at least "shipped".

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My order still shows "processing" as well, so maybe tomorrow we'll see a tracking number, or at least "shipped".
> 
> Darlene


I wouldn't be surprised if they are not back in the office until January 2nd.


----------



## raw2dogmeat

I need help please...post #11 on in this forum... http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?41578-Ramphage-Black-edition-random-reboots/page2


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My order still shows "processing" as well, so maybe tomorrow we'll see a tracking number, or at least "shipped".
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't be surprised if they are not back in the office until January 2nd.
Click to expand...

Here's their schedule:

http://www.ekwb.com/news/439/19/

Working the 30th and 31st till 3pm, and off until the 6th.

Hopefully between today and tomorrow, they'll ship some R4BE blocks.

I'm half tempted to order one from FCPU, use the first one that gets here, and just have an extra if they both ship at the same time.

Guess I'll see if mine is "shipped" tomorrow and go from there.

Darlene

Darlene


----------



## wermad

My rig is in pieces right now (awaiting cpu replacement). Since CSQ crop circles aren't offered yet, I'm just gonna wait till then. Hyper212 should be fine for now


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> My rig is in pieces right now (awaiting cpu replacement). Since CSQ crop circles aren't offered yet, I'm just gonna wait till then. Hyper212 should be fine for now


Im also on a hyper Evo 212. Temps are not an issue. I wouldn't worry about the circles, since they can't even be seen.


----------



## D749

Assuming money isn't a factor what are the benefits of this board over the Asus R4E? Note, I have no need for on-board wireless or audio.

Thanks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Im also on a hyper Evo 212. Temps are not an issue. I wouldn't worry about the circles, since they can't even be seen.


They're out of stock for everything so might as well wait for the csq circles. Another reason i don't want to put it together is the difficulty in installing and removing my Enzotech compression fittings. My fingers are uber sore from plumbing the radiators only (for now). I had to dab some silicone grease on the tube and ring threads to make them grab without forcing them on. Don't wanna apply unnecessary pressure on the main components due to installing and uninstalling my tubes and fittings to eventually add the mb block. My suspicion is on the Primochill tube. It may have been manufactured a little bit bigger then specs (typical).


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D749*
> 
> Assuming money isn't a factor what are the benefits of this board over the Asus R4E? Note, I have no need for on-board wireless or audio.
> 
> Thanks.


Better memory controller. Basically higher stable memory overclocks. Redesigned from the ground up, so bIOS is a bit on the "needs improvement side" other than that, if you have a RIVE, just stick with it. Unless you want the looks, onbard audio and all the bells and whitles from this monster board. If you don't have a RIVE, just get this since it's not much more.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D749*
> 
> Assuming money isn't a factor what are the benefits of this board over the Asus R4E? Note, I have no need for on-board wireless or audio.
> 
> Thanks.


Your best bet if you are not in need of those is the new x79 deluxe. It's pretty much the same thing w.o ROG branding and ^^^ mentioned things.

does support quad sli/fire


----------



## D749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Better memory controller. Basically higher stable memory overclocks. Redesigned from the ground up, so bIOS is a bit on the "needs improvement side" other than that, if you have a RIVE, just stick with it. Unless you want the looks, onbard audio and all the bells and whitles from this monster board. If you don't have a RIVE, just get this since it's not much more.


Appreciate the input - thanks. I've been reading about the flaky BIOS. Hopefully they get on that. One reason I was thinking of going this route was so that I could move my R4E over to my test bench. Heh.


----------



## skupples

I have yet to experience any issues (that I know of) with the bios, & i'm on 3930k which is supposedly one of the more affected chips.


----------



## D749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have yet to experience any issues (that I know of) with the bios, & i'm on 3930k which is supposedly one of the more affected chips.


Your signature states that you have a 4930K. Which is suppose to be the affected chip? Thanks.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D749*
> 
> Appreciate the input - thanks. I've been reading about the flaky BIOS. Hopefully they get on that. One reason I was thinking of going this route was so that I could move my R4E over to my test bench. Heh.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have yet to experience any issues (that I know of) with the bios, & i'm on 3930k which is supposedly one of the more affected chips.


BIOS is not terrible. I would rate it at a 7/10.
My problem with the BIOS is when I run everything on Default settings, I get random BSOD. I could be on a web browser, iTunes, or even a game. But got it all worked out by tweaking some settings.

You will hurt your RIVE feelings if you move it over to a test bench and replace it with a Black Edition. Lol


----------



## D749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> BIOS is not terrible. I would rate it at a 7/10.
> My problem with the BIOS is when I run everything on Default settings, I get random BSOD. I could be on a web browser, iTunes, or even a game. But got it all worked out by tweaking some settings.
> 
> You will hurt your RIVE feelings if you move it over to a test bench and replace it with a Black Edition. Lol


What exactly did you have to tweak to get your system stable at default? That doesn't sound right.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D749*
> 
> Your signature states that you have a 4930K. Which is suppose to be the affected chip? Thanks.


oh, hey thanks for pointing that out. I ended up going with the 3930k when I saw 4930k's were not clocking so well.
both 4930k & 3930k have been reported to have multiple of the same issues, & some of their own.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D749*
> 
> What exactly did you have to tweak to get your system stable at default? That doesn't sound right.


For default to be stable I set LLC to high.
Yep, does not sound good at all.

I have two OC profiles. 4.4 on air at 1.375V and 4.5/4.6 on water with 1.5v 4.6 requires LLC set to Extreme with 1.52v. Temps are ok even with my air cooler, but I only run high voltages with water.


----------



## Gorki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D749*
> 
> Assuming money isn't a factor what are the benefits of this board over the Asus R4E? Note, I have no need for on-board wireless or audio.
> 
> Thanks.


If you really have to ask then you don't need it. LOL







Anyway...if you're not hard bencher or tech geek, skip it. For air and water board won't provide much more then regular extreme... or maybe you need new batman phone...









Mem oc is more cpu related.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> *Better memory controller.* Basically higher stable memory overclocks. Redesigned from the ground up, so bIOS is a bit on the "needs improvement side" other than that, if you have a RIVE, just stick with it. Unless you want the looks, onbard audio and all the bells and whitles from this monster board. If you don't have a RIVE, just get this since it's not much more.


I thought memory controller was build in cpu die?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorki*
> 
> If you really have to ask then you don't need it. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway...if you're not hard bencher or tech geek, skip it. For air and water board won't provide much more then regular extreme... or maybe you need new batman phone...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mem oc is more cpu related.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought memory controller was build in cpu die?


You're correct. Memory Controller is Built in on the CPU, but somehow this board allows higher memory Overclocks than RIVE. Has to do with the memory controller working better with BE? Go figure.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D749*
> 
> Appreciate the input - thanks. I've been reading about the flaky BIOS. Hopefully they get on that. One reason I was thinking of going this route was so that I could move my R4E over to my test bench. Heh.


Don't diss the wireless. I also thought I would never use it but I was doing some upgrades and I wanted to test something that required net connection. I connected the antenna instead of taking the time to connect an extension cable and it worked fine. Sometimes wireless is just convenient. Once I put the unit back in place and had access to a Cat 6 cable again I just plugged it in and it switched to wired LAN.
Not a bad extra even if you do not often use it.


----------



## skupples

Has better trace routes, which allows better memory clocking. or something.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Not sure i understand the x86 reference. U talking about windows? Or do u prefer Linux or something?


It's complicated. Basically think about what kind of person would have that type of oven. See? Is it more clear?

Basically he's used to see a naked silicon, and Intel chips didn't have it for a while. Thus when he get one, he's thinking about removing the IHS to see naked silicon again.


----------



## kpoeticg

I still don't understand what 32bit has to do with an IHS









I understand about reflow ovens. And i'm nowhere near advanced enough with electronics to automatically assume that i'm correct. But it sounds like the DIE is connected to the IHS with a capacitor or resistor, which would mean IHS = Ground.

I just don't see the benefit of taking the risk of removing the IHS when it's soldered onto the die.


----------



## wermad

Anyone have pics of the Koolance BE block?


----------



## D749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Don't diss the wireless. I also thought I would never use it but I was doing some upgrades and I wanted to test something that required net connection. I connected the antenna instead of taking the time to connect an extension cable and it worked fine. Sometimes wireless is just convenient. Once I put the unit back in place and had access to a Cat 6 cable again I just plugged it in and it switched to wired LAN.
> Not a bad extra even if you do not often use it.


I ran CAT6A throughout my house so I'll be damned if I use wireless on anything other than my iPhone and iPad.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i see it but to be honest i think you are being a bit nit picky ( which you have a right to do )
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks well that's what I'm thinking myself too. Rep for opinion.
Click to expand...

haha thanks, again, you have every right to be, i just dont htink it will hurt anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Don't diss the wireless. I also thought I would never use it but I was doing some upgrades and I wanted to test something that required net connection. I connected the antenna instead of taking the time to connect an extension cable and it worked fine. Sometimes wireless is just convenient. Once I put the unit back in place and had access to a Cat 6 cable again I just plugged it in and it switched to wired LAN.
> Not a bad extra even if you do not often use it.
> 
> 
> 
> I ran CAT6A throughout my house so I'll be damned if I use wireless on anything other than my iPhone and iPad.
Click to expand...

this is on my todo list


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D749*
> 
> I ran CAT6A throughout my house so I'll be damned if I use wireless on anything other than my iPhone and iPad.


I also ran CAT 6 everywhere and set a central WiFi spot in the center but except for my WIndows Phone, SurfacePro Tablet, Ultrabooks and Kindles (hate apple stuff) I also only use RJ45 for real computing. My point was that I had to move my case to a workbench and had to either run an extension Ethernet cable to do a firmware update or just use WiFi. On occasions like that, having the WiFi for a quick connection is nice. When you put 6 to 8K$ into a rig it is nice to have all the options possible.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Anyone else notice there is no option for the Asmedia Sata6 Controller to select AHCI or other modes??

Anyone know how you can switch the asmedia controllers modes?


----------



## USFORCES

So how many seconds does it take a 6gb ssd drive to boot to windows on this board?
I want one of these boards and this is a big deciding factor for me, does this motherboard boot to windows in less than 10 seconds, my Z77 asus boots in 6... Does the black?


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> You're correct. Memory Controller is Built in on the CPU, but somehow this board allows higher memory Overclocks than RIVE. Has to do with the memory controller working better with BE? Go figure.


Think you're refering to better imc on Ivy-e(49**). Please correct me if I'm wrong, but better memory oc's are coming from chip, not the board.


----------



## Mega Man

mine does, but tbh i never clocked it or made it a point to boot quicker


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> You're correct. Memory Controller is Built in on the CPU, but somehow this board allows higher memory Overclocks than RIVE. Has to do with the memory controller working better with BE? Go figure.
> 
> 
> 
> Think you're refering to better imc on Ivy-e(49**). Please correct me if I'm wrong, but better memory oc's are coming from chip, not the board.
Click to expand...

Yeah the IMC's on the chip but the dram traces are on the board. One of the main upgrades they worked on for the board was ram layout. So besides the IB-E IMC being better, the RIVE BE itself is also better for OC'ing memory


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah the IMC's on the chip but the dram traces are on the board. One of the main upgrades they worked on for the board was ram layout. So besides the IB-E IMC being better, the RIVE BE itself is also better for OC'ing memory


better ram over-clocking is due to novel DRAM trace layout.


----------



## DooRules

Got mine installed, alls well.

http://valid.canardpc.com/i36cli


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DooRules*
> 
> Got mine installed, alls well.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/i36cli


welcome to the club!


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I still don't understand what 32bit has to do with an IHS


Some people are using that word for Intel and AMD CPUs. Thought they should use word x64 because that old 32 bit architecture was upgraded and now is somewhat different.
(Basically when they are using PPC, ARM, Cell, and other CPUs they need differentiate between architectures and companies somewhat.)


----------



## kpoeticg

Ahhhh, thanx for clearing that up for me. I could tell i was missing something, that's why i kept mentioning it


----------



## Doug2507

What voltages are you guys tweaking on the higher OC's? (for core only). I've only adjust vcore so far but presume that's not al i should be playing with&#8230;


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> What voltages are you guys tweaking on the higher OC's? (for core only). I've only adjust vcore so far but presume that's not al i should be playing with&#8230;


What OC goal do you want to meet 4.8 or higher


----------



## Doug2507

Looking to run 5.0ghz+ bench stable below 1.5v.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Finally, DRAM tuning completed. Bandwidth seems not bad:thumb:


----------



## skupples

I boot in about 10 seconds with only two ssd's.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I boot in about 10 seconds with only two ssd's.


great. good to hear that


----------



## skupples

I'm sure if I were to turn on every controller, & wifi, & who knows what else it would slow down, but I have no need for the marvell's atm.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DooRules*
> 
> Got mine installed, alls well.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/i36cli
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats and welcome!


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I boot in about 10 seconds with only two ssd's.


Thanks, so it's not as fast as the z77 boards.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Thanks, so it's not as fast as the z77 boards.


depends. win 8 boots faster than win7, and i'm still on win 7. I also delay my bios screen so that it's up for 5 seconds.


----------



## Raghar

Skupples what's your max overclock on 1.4 V and 1.35 V? (and are you still using 1.47V?)

(bwuahahaha. Radio is just playing that song from Zentsubo Sensei, Marrionette, teacher's pedo.)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Skupples what's your max overclock on 1.4 V and 1.35 V? (and are you still using 1.47V?)
> 
> (bwuahahaha. Radio is just playing that song from Zentsubo Sensei, Marrionette, teacher's pedo.)


I' running 5.0 @ 1.48 w/ high llc.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I boot in about 10 seconds with only two ssd's.


That is about what I am seeing also, with a pair of 840 Pro's in RAID 0. I have not tried to speed it up. That is to boot to Win 8.1, I have not tried Win 7 on this computer.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Windows 7 takes a bit longer.

LunaP, you can add me to the club. I'll be sticking with this one and have the RIVE as back up.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I' running 5.0 @ 1.48 w/ high llc.


The death is sharpening his scythe already, zig zag zig zag !


----------



## Aftermath2006

So i boot up the pc today and bam windows freezes at desktop as core temp is loading i have to restart and it says over clock failed blah blah my issue is ive ran this for days 4.5 1.392 volts 2133 mem prime 20 hours ibt 100 pass and aida for like 5 hours stable on all plus played some games far cry 3 batman arkham origins AC4 black flag borderlands 2 and crysis 3 with no issue so why would it give a failed over clock now after all that and on boot up


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Windows 7 takes a bit longer.
> 
> LunaP, you can add me to the club. I'll be sticking with this one and have the RIVE as back up.


No worries you're still on the list just a few up w/ the rest, never removed you


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> So i boot up the pc today and bam windows freezes at desktop as core temp is loading i have to restart and it says over clock failed blah blah my issue is ive ran this for days 4.5 1.392 volts 2133 mem prime 20 hours ibt 100 pass and aida for like 5 hours stable on all plus played some games far cry 3 batman arkham origins AC4 black flag borderlands 2 and crysis 3 with no issue so why would it give a failed over clock now after all that and on boot up


Same happened to me. I guess you gotta start over on your overclock, or make adjustments like adding volts, etc. When It happened to me, It made it unstable even with default. Don't really know what's up with that, but an updated BIOS could help solve this mysterious stability ghost.


----------



## DBaer

I feel we should get an updated BIOS soon. I am going to track ASUS down at CES and ask.


----------



## VertKiller

I broke down and bought a 900D today. It was on sale. Have not pulled it out of the box yet to see if it has a removable motherboard tray. I need to move things around and get rid of relatives before I start to play with it. One step closer to getting this build done.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> I broke down and bought a 900D today. It was on sale. Have not pulled it out of the box yet to see if it has a removable motherboard tray. I need to move things around and get rid of relatives before I start to play with it. One step closer to getting this build done.


Awesome







Had one briefly but sold it and got a CL instead







.

You'll love the 900D. Its not removable mb tray though there's plenty of space to maneuver. Also, its a little tight on screwing in your expansion cards. I have large hands and used a small stubby screw driver to get the thumbs screws in.

Hit up the Obsidian club to check out other awesome 900Ds and useful info as well









Btw, pics or it didn't happen









(click on your name on the top right corner and go down to the bottom and edit your "rig" details)


----------



## IT Diva

Has anyone who ordered their EK mobo block had their order processed and shipped yet?

Ordered mine on Xmas eve, 24th, but they've had 2 days back to work now, and still shows "processing".

Now they don't come back until the 6th.

Hopefully, they shipped a bunch to FCPU before they went on Holiday schedule, and FCPU will have stock by the time the EK folks come back to work.

I also ordered one from FCPU, hoping one or the other will get here quicker, and I'll just have an extra.

It's the last piece of the puzzle, maybe that's why I have so little patience over it . . .









Darlene


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Btw, pics or it didn't happen


Yep, the golden rule. Will post a pic as soon as the camera batteries charge up.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> So i boot up the pc today and bam windows freezes at desktop as core temp is loading i have to restart and it says over clock failed blah blah my issue is ive ran this for days 4.5 1.392 volts 2133 mem prime 20 hours ibt 100 pass and aida for like 5 hours stable on all plus played some games far cry 3 batman arkham origins AC4 black flag borderlands 2 and crysis 3 with no issue so why would it give a failed over clock now after all that and on boot up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same happened to me. I guess you gotta start over on your overclock, or make adjustments like adding volts, etc. When It happened to me, It made it unstable even with default. Don't really know what's up with that, but an updated BIOS could help solve this mysterious stability ghost.
Click to expand...

I dont know how it is with Intel's but on my amd it was the same thing as soon as I.oced.over 4.6, and some times it would boot fine, before you clear your setting I would save them, load default settings and uninstall core temp


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Has anyone who ordered their EK mobo block had their order processed and shipped yet?
> 
> Ordered mine on Xmas eve, 24th, but they've had 2 days back to work now, and still shows "processing".
> 
> Now they don't come back until the 6th.
> 
> Hopefully, they shipped a bunch to FCPU before they went on Holiday schedule, and FCPU will have stock by the time the EK folks come back to work.
> 
> I also ordered one from FCPU, hoping one or the other will get here quicker, and I'll just have an extra.
> 
> It's the last piece of the puzzle, maybe that's why I have so little patience over it . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Yup, a few of you guys are getting a little anxious awaiting these bad boys. Its been asked and it seems like the ek reps won't be happy with any more of this asking on eta's. I would just wait until next for and most likely they would have shipped already.

I contacted ppcs.com and they estimate about 1-2 weeks into January to get their first stock. I''m sure their retail partners get an allotment of the ones produced first.

I'm patiently waiting for CSQ which I'm suspecting I'll have in my hands by the end of the month. For now. I'll run w/out the ram block.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Yep, the golden rule. Will post a pic as soon as the camera batteries charge up.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I dont know how it is with Intel's but on my amd it was the same thing as soon as I.oced.over 4.6, and some times it would boot fine, before you clear your setting I would save them, load default settings and uninstall core temp


?

I see that there are some issues with your last post. Looks like you were quoting me with some abstract sentence but I'm thinking it just gremlins messing around.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Finally, DRAM tuning completed. Bandwidth seems not bad:thumb:


Tweaked those timings pretty good, but why?


----------



## Akadaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> So i boot up the pc today and bam windows freezes at desktop as core temp is loading i have to restart and it says over clock failed blah blah my issue is ive ran this for days 4.5 1.392 volts 2133 mem prime 20 hours ibt 100 pass and aida for like 5 hours stable on all plus played some games far cry 3 batman arkham origins AC4 black flag borderlands 2 and crysis 3 with no issue so why would it give a failed over clock now after all that and on boot up


Yes Core Temp sucks It has known freezing problems that don't get fixed I don't use it anymore.


----------



## VertKiller

Proof.









I get a kick out of how it says, "Brilliant design, Inside and Out." On the box. Not true if the Motherboard tray is not removable. Still A nice case. Yes the caselabs are nice but living in Canada, it would be cheaper to buy another 900D and do something like IT Deva.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Proof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get a kick out of how it says, "Brilliant design, Inside and Out." On the box. Not true if the Motherboard tray is not removable. Still A nice case. Yes the caselabs are nice but living in Canada, *it would be cheaper to buy another 900D and do something like IT Deva.*


That would be some crazy uber "stretched limo-bus"!









Well, I know they do have some reasonable prices to ship to other countries. But, the cost of the higher cases will always be on the high side. The TH10 start at ~$500-500 before adding all the options. I know 900D are selling for under $300 USD now.


----------



## szeged

the 900D is a nice case but it will never compare to a caselabs anything imo


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Not sure i understand the x86 reference. U talking about windows? Or do u prefer Linux or something?
> 
> The IHS is a piece of metal soldered to your CPU. Which makes it a closed circuit. People delid because intel uses thermal paste on their mainstream CPU's, so removing the IHS gives better conductivitiy. CPU -> Solder -> Metal seems like perfect conductivity to me. Unless i'm missing something, that's the same conductivity that's happening inside the die itself.


X86 and PowerPC are processor architectures. These refer to both hardware (logic gates on a die) and software (instruction sets, or sets of commands and operations).

His referring to an IHS being Intel x86 specific may or not be true.....but in the end that has nothing to do with processor architecture.


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> X86 and PowerPC are processor architectures. These refer to both hardware (logic gates on a die) and software (instruction sets, or sets of commands and operations).
> 
> His referring to an IHS being Intel x86 specific may or not be true.....but in the end that has nothing to do with processor architecture.


I've never seen an IHS on any of my PowerPC CPUs.


----------



## rabidz7

Her's my validation. I delidded my 4930K in my BGA oven! It works great. http://valid.canardpc.com/0l50it


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> I've never seen an IHS on any of my PowerPC CPUs.


Could be. I've never removed a heatsink from a ppc cpu.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Has anyone who ordered their EK mobo block had their order processed and shipped yet?
> 
> Ordered mine on Xmas eve, 24th, but they've had 2 days back to work now, and still shows "processing".
> 
> Now they don't come back until the 6th.
> 
> Hopefully, they shipped a bunch to FCPU before they went on Holiday schedule, and FCPU will have stock by the time the EK folks come back to work.
> 
> I also ordered one from FCPU, hoping one or the other will get here quicker, and I'll just have an extra.
> 
> It's the last piece of the puzzle, maybe that's why I have so little patience over it . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Ordered directly from EK on Christmas day, still in processing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I dont know how it is with Intel's but on my amd it was the same thing as soon as I.oced.over 4.6, and some times it would boot fine, before you clear your setting I would save them, load default settings and uninstall core temp
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> I see that there are some issues with your last post. Looks like you were quoting me with some abstract sentence but I'm thinking it just gremlins messing around.
Click to expand...

yes. sorry fixed, that is what i get for using a phone to post lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Her's my validation. I delidded my 4930K in my BGA oven! It works great. http://valid.canardpc.com/0l50it


excellent glad it worked out for you !!


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> So i boot up the pc today and bam windows freezes at desktop as core temp is loading i have to restart and it says over clock failed blah blah my issue is ive ran this for days 4.5 1.392 volts 2133 mem prime 20 hours ibt 100 pass and aida for like 5 hours stable on all plus played some games far cry 3 batman arkham origins AC4 black flag borderlands 2 and crysis 3 with no issue so why would it give a failed over clock now after all that and on boot up


It's normal same thing happened to me on more than 1 cpu. Your cpu is now "Broken in" and will require some more volts to run, and once you find the right volts should stay there for a long long long long time


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> X86 and PowerPC are processor architectures. These refer to both hardware (logic gates on a die) and software (instruction sets, or sets of commands and operations).
> 
> His referring to an IHS being Intel x86 specific may or not be true.....but in the end that has nothing to do with processor architecture.


Yeah @Raghar cleared it up for me.

The way he said it just translated to me as he wants to delid his 4930k because he hates 32bit cpu's, and i was very confused









The only cause for delidding that i've ever heard of is to even out the temps across your cores because intel didn't use solder. Just doesn't seem like there's anything to gain from desoldering the ihs from your brand new $550 cpu

I really don't know much about the inner circuitry of processors tho.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> I've never seen an IHS on any of my PowerPC CPUs.


I've only ever seen PPC's used in Mac's so don't know that much about them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Her's my validation. I delidded my 4930K in my BGA oven! It works great. http://valid.canardpc.com/0l50it


Congrats. Was there a resistor or capacitor underneath? Or was it just IHS => solder => die?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Has anyone who ordered their EK mobo block had their order processed and shipped yet?
> 
> Ordered mine on Xmas eve, 24th, but they've had 2 days back to work now, and still shows "processing".
> 
> Now they don't come back until the 6th.
> 
> Hopefully, they shipped a bunch to FCPU before they went on Holiday schedule, and FCPU will have stock by the time the EK folks come back to work.
> 
> I also ordered one from FCPU, hoping one or the other will get here quicker, and I'll just have an extra.
> 
> It's the last piece of the puzzle, maybe that's why I have so little patience over it . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


They sent me a message on my RMA ticket this morning, so I know they were around.


----------



## USFORCES

I might order a black this weekend, what cpu should I get a 4930k or 4960x for this board?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I might order a black this weekend, what cpu should I get a 4930k or 4960x for this board?


4930k all the way


----------



## USFORCES

1 vote for the 4930k







My wallet likes you, lol


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Tweaked those timings pretty good, but why?


what do you mean 'but why'? don't get your point, could you post your 2666CL10 aida64 bandwidth test results?


----------



## kpoeticg

Well if the 4960x is enough of an option that you're asking for asking for opinions, i say go for it.

That being said, i'm going 4930k in this build unless some kind of crazy proof comes out that the X's are actually worth the extra money somehow in this generation


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Her's my validation. I delidded my 4930K in my BGA oven! It works great. http://valid.canardpc.com/0l50it


So how much temperatures dropped? (Yes that was a tongue in cheek question.)

And how does it look like after delid? Post some images, (and you might post these images also in Ivy-E thread)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well if the 4960x is enough of an option that you're asking for asking for opinions, i say go for it.
> That being said, i'm going 4930k in this build unless some kind of crazy proof comes out that the X's are actually worth the extra money somehow in this generation


Not sure if its anything noteworthy but I confirmed with our intel guy that they are indeed pulled from the center of the wafer.

Also posting from phone in bed ill add anyone new once im up. Happy new years everyone


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Also posting from phone in bed ill add anyone new once im up. Happy new years everyone


I ate too much garlic or butter, and I spend night with explosive diarrhea, or something similar. Is it a new year already? Happy new year or something.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

*T. M. I.*


----------



## asfgbdnf

happy new year


----------



## hotrod717

derp


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I ate too much garlic or butter, and I spend night with explosive diarrhea, or something similar. Is it a new year already? Happy new year or something.


Lol! I'd switch places with you. Severed my exterial tendon on my right middle finger and spent yesterday in doctors. Surgery Thurs. or Friday. Definately no gaming or rearranging my new build for several weeks. On a bright note my left hand can still change settings and do some oc'ing! oh yeah. Happy New Year!


----------



## rabidz7

http://valid.canardpc.com/0l50it


----------



## rabidz7

Add me!!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I ate too much garlic or butter, and I spend night with explosive diarrhea, or something similar. Is it a new year already? Happy new year or something.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol! I'd switch places with you. Severed my exterial tendon on my right middle finger and spent yesterday in doctors. Surgery Thurs. or Friday. Definately no gaming or rearranging my new build for several weeks. On a bright note my left hand can still change settings and do some oc'ing! oh yeah. Happy New Year!
Click to expand...

so sorry to hear that :/ that really sucks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/0l50it


welcome

managed 4.9ghz 1 hour prime stable !!


----------



## skupples

is BUS speed the only way to crank up the FSB on 3930k?


----------



## wermad

I'm going to push a 3820 and see how far I can get w/ it. For what I do, 95% of the time a quad core should perform the same as a hexacore. When you consider my old 2700K was 0.2 fps slower then a 3930K I think its worth the savings and just spend the extra cash on something else. Like a mb block


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm going to push a 3820 and see how far I can get w/ it. For what I do, 95% of the time a quad core should perform the same as a hexacore. When you consider my old 2700K was 0.2 fps slower then a 3930K I think its worth the savings and just spend the extra cash on something else. Like a mb block


iv'e been thinking about picking up one of those 4820k... Looks like an epic little oc'er


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> iv'e been thinking about picking up one of those 4820k... Looks like an epic little oc'er


I was planning a on a 4820k but since I don't plan to oc my memory to new levels, I saved a bit going w/ a 3820. Also, when I looked at the 3820/4820 oc thread (before it got crapped out by the recent server update), a lot of 3820s were breaking 4.8 and up to 5.0, though 4820ks were barely kissing 4.8. I know some IB-E will hit 5.0 but I have a better chance w/ the SB-E. Plus it was cheaper







. If it doesn't bode well, these chips still sell strong and fast on fleabay and i can then go w/ something else. Its an earlier 3820 but I'm hoping it can break 4.8-4.9. I did ran my little old 4670k @ 4.8 w/ this same gpu and Eyefinity setup (5x1).


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so sorry to hear that :/ that really sucks
> welcome
> 
> managed 4.9ghz 1 hour prime stable !!


Thanks. What voltage are you at. I'm good with [email protected] 1.4v , but can't seem to get anything higher stable.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> iv'e been thinking about picking up one of those 4820k... Looks like an epic little oc'er


Im just hoping ill see a noticeable differe ce on my 4960x from my 980x.

Just woke up ill be on my comp later to add the new gaiz


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> what do you mean 'but why'? don't get your point, could you post your 2666CL10 aida64 bandwidth test results?


I was being sarcastic. You got good results.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> iv'e been thinking about picking up one of those 4820k... Looks like an epic little oc'er


Well we will see as soon as tax time comes around. Man hope I can get at least 4.4-4.6 on a h100i. Wishfull thinking? Yes No?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Well we will see as soon as tax time comes around. Man hope I can get at least 4.4-4.6 on a h100i. Wishfull thinking? Yes No?


4.6 is doable, even on an h100 from what I'm seeing


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I was being sarcastic. You got good results.


LOL, how is your holiday?







:thumb:


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well if the 4960x is enough of an option that you're asking for asking for opinions, i say go for it.
> That being said, i'm going 4930k in this build unless some kind of crazy proof comes out that the X's are actually worth the extra money somehow in this generation
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if its anything noteworthy but I confirmed with our intel guy that they are indeed pulled from the center of the wafer.
> 
> Also posting from phone in bed ill add anyone new once im up. Happy new years everyone
Click to expand...

I shoulda said "extra $500" instead of "extra money"

I still haven't gotten my cpu yet, but the only way i'd spend the extra on an X would be if i see some comparisons where they're consistently clocking at least 200MHz higher than most 4930k's


----------



## cobz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the 900D is a nice case but it will never compare to a caselabs anything imo


I 100% agree.... I have the 900d and I do not like it.. I had to use wire snippers to cut out a piece of the case just so I could get my hands in there from the back to secure my classified cards...







I cannot believe they desgined the case that way.. There is no way to put in the 2nd screw otherwise.. Ethusiast case, Yeah, Ok!







What a design flaw... I cannot believe they did not make enough room back there for bigger cards.. My 780 ti's were no prob, but the 780 ti classys, oh man..







I have the Caselabs STH10 on order..


----------



## rabidz7

The title should be written like this:
[Official] Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners' Club!

Not like this:
[Official] Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so sorry to hear that :/ that really sucks
> welcome
> 
> managed 4.9ghz 1 hour prime stable !!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. What voltage are you at. I'm good with [email protected] 1.4v , but can't seem to get anything higher stable.
Click to expand...

1.425 atm

a bit anal retentive, i have to feel some stuffs, i wanted to make sure my temp sensors are off i pulled out one, powered down to fix and just6 restarted , ( had to play some games with the wife, we beat mario wii u :O )

so long story i just restarted ! we will see if my changes helped


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cobz*
> 
> I 100% agree.... I have the 900d and I do not like it.. I had to use wire snippers to cut out a piece of the case just so I could get my hands in there from the back to secure my classified cards...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cannot believe they desgined the case that way.. There is no way to put in the 2nd screw otherwise.. Ethusiast case, Yeah, Ok!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a design flaw... I cannot believe they did not make enough room back there for bigger cards.. My 780 ti's were no prob, but the 780 ti classys, oh man..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Caselabs STH10 on order..


Hi, can you show me a few pictures with the classys inside the case ?
I want to buy two classes and i want to stick in in my 900D,
but if you say it´s tight then i have to look for other graphics cards.
How tight is this that's really interesting for me to see. Thx


----------



## Goggle Eye

Have a few questions would appreciate some answers. Rather new at over clocking. This system is still rock solid and never had any issues and when I first saw the Rampage lll Black Edition I instantly decided to up grade. Simply amazing board in the day king of the hill the last Asus X-58 platform.

Preparing to up grade my case to a caseLabs case and water cooling system. Long over due and has to take priority over a new mother board and hardware for a couple of months.

Debating about up grading my system. The current system is still rock solid and serves my needs very well. Not real familiar with over clocking have made a few attempts and in some respects successful on the X-58 platform.

Do you think Asus will build a Hazwell Rampage Vl Black Edition?

Not sold on Hazwell and considering purchasing a Asus Rampage lV Black Edition for the up graded system.

My understanding Clock for Clock Hazwell is the new king?

Will 2 Evga 780s TI or GTX bottle neck on a I7 990x CPU over clock at 4. 68 GHz on the X-58 Platform?

Runniing 4 x 300 Gig velocity raptors non raid since I do not move huge amounts of folders or do large amounts of video editing. I used to run Raid 1+0

The system is used for flight sims mostly FSX very CPU oriented uses a lot of resources. FSX does not recognize SLI or multi threading. However P3D does.

Does my needs require Black edition M/Board no. With my experiecnce on the Black Edition x 58 mother board have had no issues what so ever and always up dated the drivers, chip set and BIOS. There was a lot of people having issues on other X-58 platforms for one reason or another. With that said I am sold on Asus Black Edition mother boards period. Even if it means not being able to up date every year or two and up date every three to five years.

Like to have a few recommendations not so much on cost verses but more on reliability and your opinions on Hazwell. Will Asus build a Black Edition Vl Mother Board?

Thank you for taking the time to read my post and answer a few questions for me.

Since I own a Black Rampage lll May I join your club? Just joking do see some advantages to being a club member thank you.

My current system: Liquid cooled

Asus Rampage lll Black Edition
I7 990x 4.68GHz
Corsair DDR3 1600MHz
Evga 580 Hydros SLI never over clocked.


----------



## wermad

Haswell is the current Enthusiast platform, LGA1150. Haswell-Extreme is the upcoming "Extreme platform" replacement for Ivy Bridge-Extreme. Haswell-E will be LGA2011 *but* the pin mapping is completely different requiring a new socket and thus mb (X99). More then likely, Asus will have a Rampage V Extreme for the new Haswell-E lineup and probably a Rampage V BE after that. Its hard to speculate on a product that may be in the pipeline a good 2-3 years from now. For sure, Asus will have a Rampage V Extreme imho. A BE, well, that depends. I think the IV BE was a bigger hit compared to the III BE since it was a good boost up from the vanilla IV Extreme. So, it will be up to Asus to decide on a BE to peak interest in what ever replaces Haswell-E later on (and to refresh X99 platform).


----------



## kpoeticg

You can't really compare Haswell to IB-E. -E platforms have 40 native PCI lanes. Mainstream (Haswell) only has 16. That's basically the number one advantage of E series and the reason for the extra socket pins (2011 vs 1155/1150).

Asus will definitely release Rampage V's when Haswell-E comes out. And the Rampage V BE will probly follow a year or so later when the next CPU's are starting to come out.

edit: ^^^What he said =)


----------



## centvalny

Probably by now mobo vendors already busy testing new cpu and ddr4 on their es production boards


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/0l50it


Grats! Added and welcome to the club! Guessing you missed my messages just above you earlier.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Add me!!!


Please try to use the edit button vs double posting








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> The title should be written like this:
> [Official] Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners' Club!
> 
> Not like this:
> [Official] Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club!


Did you mean Owner's*?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> [...] Did you mean Owner's*?


Nope, Mr. punctuation cop meant Owners'.
Owner's is the singular possessive
Owners' is the plural possessive

IMHO it's fine like it is and petty/ridiculous to bring up changing it.


----------



## Goggle Eye

That helps me a lot on making an informed decision concerning up dating or waiting to up date my current system. Believe will get a Asus Rampage lV Black Edition in a few months in the process of getting CaseLabs Case and up dating the water cooling so the budget was hit pretty hard. Waiting for 1 or 2 more years down the road is out of the question.

Appreciate everyone taking the time to answer my questions. Thank You.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Have a few questions would appreciate some answers. Rather new at over clocking. This system is still rock solid and never had any issues and when I first saw the Rampage lll Black Edition I instantly decided to up grade. Simply amazing board in the day king of the hill the last Asus X-58 platform.
> 
> Preparing to up grade my case to a caseLabs case and water cooling system. Long over due and has to take priority over a new mother board and hardware for a couple of months.
> 
> Debating about up grading my system. The current system is still rock solid and serves my needs very well. Not real familiar with over clocking have made a few attempts and in some respects successful on the X-58 platform.
> 
> Do you think Asus will build a Hazwell Rampage Vl Black Edition?
> 
> Not sold on Hazwell and considering purchasing a Asus Rampage lV Black Edition for the up graded system.
> 
> My understanding Clock for Clock Hazwell is the new king?
> 
> Will 2 Evga 780s TI or GTX bottle neck on a I7 990x CPU over clock at 4. 68 GHz on the X-58 Platform?
> 
> Runniing 4 x 300 Gig velocity raptors non raid since I do not move huge amounts of folders or do large amounts of video editing. I used to run Raid 1+0
> 
> The system is used for flight sims mostly FSX very CPU oriented uses a lot of resources. FSX does not recognize SLI or multi threading. However P3D does.
> 
> Does my needs require Black edition M/Board no. With my experiecnce on the Black Edition x 58 mother board have had no issues what so ever and always up dated the drivers, chip set and BIOS. There was a lot of people having issues on other X-58 platforms for one reason or another. With that said I am sold on Asus Black Edition mother boards period. Even if it means not being able to up date every year or two and up date every three to five years.
> 
> Like to have a few recommendations not so much on cost verses but more on reliability and your opinions on Hazwell. Will Asus build a Black Edition Vl Mother Board?
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to read my post and answer a few questions for me.
> 
> Since I own a Black Rampage lll May I join your club? Just joking do see some advantages to being a club member thank you.
> 
> My current system: Liquid cooled
> 
> Asus Rampage lll Black Edition
> I7 990x 4.68GHz
> Corsair DDR3 1600MHz
> Evga 580 Hydros SLI never over clocked.


Sorry, i was on my work pc and couldn't really answer everything a few hours ago for you:

Haswell has a few advantages vs IB-E and vice versa. Haswell runs on Z87 which is a newer and has a lot more native features vs the older X79 chip. Also, memory speeds are higher as well.

Haswell does suffer from heat issues like IB (LGA1155). I, like many, ended up deliding to take care of the issue. With IB-E, there's no need to do that.

Haswell natively supports 16 lanes for gpu(s). Which, if you're running two cards, no problem. Now if you want to run three or four, I would say its better to invest in LGA2011. Though, there are both LGA 1150 and 1155 boards that have PLX chips to solve this issue. I've ran a few of them and as far as gaming, there's little gain vs LGA2011. If benching is a priority as well, go w/ LGA2011.

SB-E and IB-E offer the option for hexacore processors where Haswell is limited to four cores only. Personally, i have not found any advantage in the majority of current gaming. I have yet to see any real pc gaming advancement but w/ the newer consoles out, it may change. But its still very gray. For now, in gaming, a quad core still does a great job. I do recommend at least a quad w/ eight threads.

Clock for clock, the newer chips like Haswell and IB-E will be better in certain situations. In gaming, not much. From the reviews and the experience I've had, gaming does benefit from a healthy clock speed. Again, if benching is gonna be a big thing for you, you still want the advantage of a platform that can offer you a six core processor.

A gulftown is still pretty boss. If you can push it to 4.5, you should have no trouble running a couple of Ti's imho. I had two 690s and two Titans on a 2700k, three 780s and four 7970s on a 4760K. Your cpu still has a good amount of resale value. I've seen 980X sell for ~$350-400 on ebay and you can find a SB-E 3930K for under $400 or a 4390K under $500. So selling your old chip and getting a new one won't be such a big hit on your wallet.

Btw, this is a Rampage IV BE LGA2011 X79 club and since your lovely Rampage III BE is not, it don't make sense to be added. It helps keep this thread on the focus, the BE, but I'm sure there's still a Rampage III club here. No harm bumping it if no one has replied in a while.

If you do go w/ a Rampage IV BE, its an awesome board. I had a hard time swallowing the cost but so far I think its worth it. Why not go all out with the best possible X79 board as a last hurrah (swan song) as we're setting on this platforms end. Though it should still continue strong as intel is known for baby step upgrades on their cpu's









edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> That helps me a lot on making an informed decision concerning up dating or waiting to up date my current system. Believe will get a Asus Rampage lV Black Edition in a few months in the process of getting CaseLabs Case and up dating the water cooling so the budget was hit pretty hard. Waiting for 1 or 2 more years down the road is out of the question.
> 
> Appreciate everyone taking the time to answer my questions. Thank You.


Awesome







Post pics to show off that bad boy once in comes in. Also, hit up the Case Labs club to join


----------



## erayser

Finally got the water moving in its dark veins, and now, "It's Alive"!!!!










Installing Windows 7 now...











*More eye candy:*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















BTW... I wish someone told me I had the RAM in the wrong slots before I fired it up. Got a B5 error on first startup... which had nothing to do with the RAM slot allocation. Google was my friend.. and didn't take long to figure out...










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mega Man

on that note maybe it needs to be in the op which slots to use...

wish me luck 4.9 4 hours into prime if this will pass 8 hours gonna try 5.0....


----------



## erayser

Nah, it was in the manual clear as day. I was just blind as a bat when I installed it. I just got trial/practice contacts (first timer) recently, and now I can actually read the manual now. I still have another eye doctor appointment tomorrow for my real prescriptions.


----------



## Mega Man

lasik was the best thing I ever spent.cash on... I was so blind, without my glasses the writing at wall Mart on the wall ( like 5ft tall ) I could not even read...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Finally got the water moving in its dark veins, and now, "It's Alive"!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installing Windows 7 now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More eye candy:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW... I wish someone told me I had the RAM in the wrong slots before I fired it up. Got a B5 error on first startup... which had nothing to do with the RAM slot allocation. Google was my friend.. and didn't take long to figure out...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Impressive


----------



## Goggle Eye

Great explanation and very informative. Sleep on it over night pretty certain on the Rampage lV B.E.. amazing mother Board and a lot more features than I could ever understand with out a lot of research and time invested. Everyone thought I was crazy for purchasing the Asus Rampage lll Black Edition the 1356 chip set was over and a lot of companies had quit selling the board. I placed the order Rampage lll B.E. very pricy board at the time. Like to be a little more in front of the curve instead of behind the curve the IV B.E. will work for my applications. Have to post pone the order on the M/ board a few months since in the process of ordering the CaseLabs Case and some water cooling hardware.

Again thank you for taking the time to provide me with a very detailed explanation on the chip sets. very informative and learned a few things concerning mother Boards and CPUs.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Great explanation and very informative. Sleep on it over night pretty certain on the Rampage lV B.E.. amazing mother Board and a lot more features than I could ever understand with out a lot of research and time invested. Everyone thought I was crazy for purchasing the Asus Rampage lll Black Edition the 1356 chip set was over and a lot of companies had quit selling the board. I placed the order Rampage lll B.E. very pricy board at the time. Like to be a little more in front of the curve instead of behind the curve the IV B.E. will work for my applications. Have to post pone the order on the M/ board a few months since in the process of ordering the CaseLabs Case and some water cooling hardware.
> 
> Again thank you for taking the time to provide me with a very detailed explanation on the chip sets. very informative and learned a few things concerning mother Boards and CPUs.


I had the Rampage III Extreme and missed out on trying to get the Black version. I was disappointed later on about it. Then I got the RIVE and had it since it was released, but then the Black got released and thought I'm not going to let this happen again!


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the Black seems to get released not too long before the next gen Rampage's are gonna come out. If i had any type of decent desktop to hold me over til the Rampage V's i probly would have. These boards are great now, but in like 8 months i'm gonna be sad with all the native Sata III/USB3/DDR4/Octacore CPU's on the RVE


----------



## cruzdi

Looks like EK read some of our complains and decided to work some overtime to ship the EK motherboard blocks for the R4BE.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> Looks like EK read some of our complains and decided to work some overtime to ship the EK motherboard blocks for the R4BE.


Some specifics maybe . . . .

Still showing as "orderable" on FCPU, and my order still shows as "processing"









Darlene


----------



## WCRF_1710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> Looks like EK read some of our complains and decided to work some overtime to ship the EK motherboard blocks for the R4BE.


They are available at EK store in "only few pieces".

Nevertheless they didn't ship mine yet.


----------



## cobz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi, can you show me a few pictures with the classys inside the case ?
> I want to buy two classes and i want to stick in in my 900D,
> but if you say it´s tight then i have to look for other graphics cards.
> How tight is this that's really interesting for me to see. Thx


Sorry for the crappy pics, its from the google nexus tab..







. If you want better pics, I can break out the digital camera or my use my cell phone.. I just wanted to get them to you quickly.







As you can see, I had to cut out the back.. There is no way to get your hand in there to screw in the 2nd screw to secure the cards... So you have to enter in through the back... Stupid design if you ask me..


----------



## Dr Mad

Hello here









Just got my BE and I have one question concerning VRM cooling.
Does the original BE rad cools the VRM enough with a decent OC or is it necessary to watercool?

My R4E is watercooled with EK block but I'm not sure to biuy one for BE (also, I lkie the radiator design).

Thanks


----------



## feartheturtle

I'm trying to overclock my i7-4930K on the RIVBE but my system keeps shutting down and restarting without giving any blue error screens when benchmarking and gaming (i.e. Cinebench and especially the AIDA64 FPU VP8 benchmark) so could it be something wrong with my AX860i psu since I'm not getting any blue screens? Or could it be my chip and the overclock settings I'm using? I'm attempting 4.5GHz at 1.275V, high LLC, 1.1 VTT/VCCSA, 1.8 PLL while running 16GB quad channel Dominator Platinum memory at XMP profile of 2133MHz at 1.5V (9-11-10-30). I also have 1 GTX 780 Classified installed.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feartheturtle*
> 
> I'm trying to overclock my i7-4930K on the RIVBE but my system keeps shutting down and restarting without giving any blue error screens when benchmarking and gaming (i.e. Cinebench and especially the AIDA64 FPU VP8 benchmark) so could it be something wrong with my AX860i psu since I'm not getting any blue screens? Or could it be my chip and the overclock settings I'm using? I'm attempting 4.5GHz at 1.275V, high LLC, 1.1 VTT/VCCSA, 1.8 PLL while running 16GB quad channel Dominator Platinum memory at XMP profile of 2133MHz at 1.5V (9-11-10-30). I also have 1 GTX 780 Classified installed.


try these settings:










vCPU and VCCSA may need adjust according to your own CPU, otherwise the rest should work for you. :')


----------



## feartheturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> try these settings:
> 
> 
> 
> vCPU and VCCSA may need adjust according to your own CPU, otherwise the rest should work for you. :')


Thanks for all the bios settings. I'll give it a try later this afternoon. For the DRAM Timing Control, what value do you have for the "tRWSR"?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feartheturtle*
> 
> Thanks for all the bios settings. I'll give it a try later this afternoon. For the DRAM Timing Control, what value do you have for the "tRWSR"?


whoops, didn't mean to not show that. It's set to "2".


----------



## Goggle Eye

Feartheturtle Wish you the best on the O.Clock not sure so I wont comment on the O.C..Wanted to tell you I like the build very nice system.


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feartheturtle*
> 
> I'm trying to overclock my i7-4930K on the RIVBE but my system keeps shutting down and restarting without giving any blue error screens when benchmarking and gaming (i.e. Cinebench and especially the AIDA64 FPU VP8 benchmark) so could it be something wrong with my AX860i psu since I'm not getting any blue screens? Or could it be my chip and the overclock settings I'm using? I'm attempting 4.5GHz at 1.275V, high LLC, 1.1 VTT/VCCSA, 1.8 PLL while running 16GB quad channel Dominator Platinum memory at XMP profile of 2133MHz at 1.5V (9-11-10-30). I also have 1 GTX 780 Classified installed.


I know for me, the shutdowns were a sign of not enough vcore. Every time I tried going to a clockspeed that was beyond my CPU for a given voltage, I would get the shutdown loop. Either increase the voltage, or drop the clockspeed and try again.


----------



## feartheturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> whoops, didn't mean to not show that. It's set to "2".


Thanks for that. I'm currently stress testing using your bios settings and my system seems to be more stable than in the past. Hopefully, it will keep up with the overclock.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Feartheturtle Wish you the best on the O.Clock not sure so I wont comment on the O.C..Wanted to tell you I like the build very nice system.


Thanks...much appreciated.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> I know for me, the shutdowns were a sign of not enough vcore. Every time I tried going to a clockspeed that was beyond my CPU for a given voltage, I would get the shutdown loop. Either increase the voltage, or drop the clockspeed and try again.


Yes, I've now slightly increased the vcore although in my case I think that the vccsa voltage is a little bit more sensitive and needs to be fine tuned in order to maintain the overclock and memory speed.


----------



## ANDEEZY

I haven't put my build together yet and I was wondering about the sound quality. I was thinking of getting one of these headphones: Astro A40, A50 or PC360. Or even just using my Sony Elite Pulse plugged into the 3.5mm jack. My question is if I use optical from mobo to mix amp, will I notice any sound quality difference than just plugging the headphone straight into the mobo? Also I'm thinking the Sony Elite Pulse may not be that great compared to the other 3 headphones since it uses virtual 7.1 surround only with the playstation and stereo on PC but maybe the mobo amp will provide true surround?


----------



## cruzdi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Some specifics maybe . . . .
> 
> Still showing as "orderable" on FCPU, and my order still shows as "processing"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene



This is a direct order from EKWB.com that I put on 12/24. They were not supposed to go back to work until Jan 6.


----------



## skupples

2400mhz @ -1 all main timings stable!!!!!!!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2400mhz @ -1 all main timings stable!!!!!!!


Naisu! What's you're timings set to? You're running the 2400 Tridents right?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Some specifics maybe . . . .
> 
> Still showing as "orderable" on FCPU, and my order still shows as "processing"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a direct order from EKWB.com that I put on 12/24. They were not supposed to go back to work until Jan 6.
Click to expand...

I got an email today as well with tracking, it appears that it's on the way . . .
















Darlene


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> Looks like EK read some of our complains and decided to work some overtime to ship the EK motherboard blocks for the R4BE.


Yep, got mine shipped out today.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Naisu! What's you're timings set to? You're running the 2400 Tridents right?


yessir, so i'm @ 8,10,10,28... I would post tweakit if i had it installed.


----------



## zucciniknife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> I haven't put my build together yet and I was wondering about the sound quality. I was thinking of getting one of these headphones: Astro A40, A50 or PC360. Or even just using my Sony Elite Pulse plugged into the 3.5mm jack. My question is if I use optical from mobo to mix amp, will I notice any sound quality difference than just plugging the headphone straight into the mobo? Also I'm thinking the Sony Elite Pulse may not be that great compared to the other 3 headphones since it uses virtual 7.1 surround only with the playstation and stereo on PC but maybe the mobo amp will provide true surround?


You should go ask this in the audio equipment section. Also, you would be better off getting a pair of headphones, a mic, and a soundcard at that kind of price range. Again, go to the audio equipment section.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cobz*
> 
> Sorry for the crappy pics, its from the google nexus tab..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If you want better pics, I can break out the digital camera or my use my cell phone.. I just wanted to get them to you quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, I had to cut out the back.. There is no way to get your hand in there to screw in the 2nd screw to secure the cards... So you have to enter in through the back... Stupid design if you ask me..


Hi thx for the pics. But can you make little better ones plz from the back and from the screw itself it will help me alot to see exactly the issues.
Only then I can decide whether I will make it so, or must find another solution. thank you!


----------



## cobz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi thx for the pics. But can you make little better ones plz from the back and from the screw itself it will help me alot to see exactly the issues.
> Only then I can decide whether I will make it so, or must find another solution. thank you!


No prob, hope these are better...


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cobz*
> 
> No prob, hope these are better...


What the hell !
This is real S..., you can not tighten the screw with a screwdriver.
Thank you for the info I'll have to think about a other solution!

+rep for you


----------



## ANDEEZY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> You should go ask this in the audio equipment section. Also, you would be better off getting a pair of headphones, a mic, and a soundcard at that kind of price range. Again, go to the audio equipment section.


The RIVBE from what I have read has an awesome onboard sound so I don't think it's necessary to get a dedicated sound card. I'll post my question to the audio section thanks.


----------



## cobz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> What the hell !
> This is real S..., you can not tighten the screw with a screwdriver.
> Thank you for the info I'll have to think about a other solution!
> 
> +rep for you


Thanks bro..







Yeah, tell me about it... There is no way to get a screwdriver in there unless you cut out the back the way I did.. And even then its tough to get a screwdriver in there.. You have to angle it in through the back, and then you have to put one hand in the back and the other through the side to turn the freakin thing.. I cannot believe they designed the case this way.. very disappointing..


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cobz*
> 
> No prob, hope these are better...


I helped him install those cards. It seemed impossible to screw them in without modifying the case or taking it apart somehow. Unless we missed something, the card height was too much and it was basically impossible to reach the screw holes. Maybe with a super short Philips but still i dont think it was possible because then the side of the case was in the way. We tried just a philip bit and no go. Maybe if we had toddler hands.







In order to take the grill off we had to basically take the whole back off and it seemed some of the screws were machined punch holes and cutting the grill was easier TBH. We will either put a new screen on there or I think hes just buying the caselab.

But the point is not the difficulty of the install, its an enthusiast case, it should be able to handle big/tall video cards. I also helped install 780 classy's in my friends $80 thermtake case and it was a breeze.


----------



## cobz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> I helped him install those cards. It seemed impossible to screw them in without modifying the case or taking it apart somehow. Unless we missed something, the card height was too much and it was basically impossible to reach the screw holes. Maybe with a super short Philips but still i dont think it was possible because then the side of the case was in the way. We tried just a philip bit and no go. Maybe if we had toddler hands.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order to take the grill off we had to basically take the whole back off and it seemed some of the screws were machined punch holes and cutting the grill was easier TBH. We will either put a new screen on there or I think hes just buying the caselab.
> 
> But the point is not the difficulty of the install, its an enthusiast case, it should be able to handle big/tall video cards. I also helped install 780 classy's in my friends $80 thermtake case and it was a breeze.


Yes sireeee, caselabs STH10 on order...







I have my ek blocks already here, just have to finish up my order with Frozen CPU for the rest of my water build..


----------



## szeged

when i still used the 900D i installed the screw from the back onto the middle screw hole on the 780ti classy to get it to work









sth10 all the way from now on, no more pre made stamped steel bad layout mass produced in chinese sweatshop cases for me


----------



## cobz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> when i still used the 900D i installed the screw from the back onto the middle screw hole on the 780ti classy to get it to work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sth10 all the way from now on, no more pre made stamped steel bad layout mass produced in chinese sweatshop cases for me


I had to install 2 cards, and it sucked..


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> when i still used the 900D i installed the screw from the back onto the middle screw hole on the 780ti classy to get it to work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sth10 all the way from now on, no more pre made stamped steel bad layout mass produced in chinese sweatshop cases for me


From the back? really lol..









Were your magnetic dust filters demagnetized too? cobz rma'd a set and they were still all bent and not magnetic whatsoever..


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> From the back? really lol..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Were your magnetic dust filters demagnetized too? cobz rma'd a set and they were still all bent and not magnetic whatsoever..


yeah the dust filters on the 900D sucked, fall off at any chance they get.

the demciflex filters for the sth10 are amazing, you have to give em a good pull to get them off.


----------



## cobz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah the dust filters on the 900D sucked, fall off at any chance they get.
> 
> the demciflex filters for the sth10 are amazing, you have to give em a good pull to get them off.


I was going to ask you about that.. Does the STH10 come with the filters or you have to buy them a la cart?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cobz*
> 
> I was going to ask you about that.. Does the STH10 come with the filters or you have to buy them a la cart?


have to buy em seperate from performance-pcs.com is where i got mine


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> What the hell !
> This is real S..., you can not tighten the screw with a screwdriver.
> Thank you for the info I'll have to think about a other solution!
> 
> +rep for you


I used a right angle alen wrench type screwdriver.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> The RIVBE from what I have read has an awesome onboard sound so I don't think it's necessary to get a dedicated sound card. I'll post my question to the audio section thanks.


It does have excellent sound. I could detect nor measure any average difference between the on board and my Xonar.


----------



## cobz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> have to buy em seperate from performance-pcs.com is where i got mine


Ahhhh, ok... thanks







I was wondering, because when I was looking at the STH10 there was no mention of dust filters... Very cool.... Will have to order them from perfomance-pcs..


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cobz*
> 
> No prob, hope these are better...


http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html

+



Would that have worked ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html
> 
> +
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would that have worked ?


Looking at those pics of how tight that was, I suspect that wouldn't have reached, but I think these might have. I've used both kinds of flexible screwdriver extensions and they do work wonders getting into tight spots like that.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> What the hell !
> This is real S..., you can not tighten the screw with a screwdriver.
> Thank you for the info I'll have to think about a other solution!
> 
> +rep for you


ratchet screw driver.

or hell, even some of these



looks like you need just under an inch/2.25cm

in fact, if i'm not mistaken my case came with ^^ a tool like this above.


----------



## Mega Man

4.9 failed, still not done, have a few more settings to try... in other news my 7970 came in !!!










wife gets it when i get my 290xs


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html
> 
> +
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would that have worked ?
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at those pics of how tight that was, I suspect that wouldn't have reached, but I think these might have. I've used both kinds of flexible screwdriver extensions and they do work wonders getting into tight spots like that.
Click to expand...

Flexible screwdriver extensions? so cool, never here about before.. hahaha!
I prefer to buy a real case that don't need magic moves. BTW, I still hate this board


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Flexible screwdriver extensions? so cool, never here about before.. hahaha!
> I prefer to buy a real case that don't need magic moves. BTW, I still hate this board


which case do you use?


----------



## tvelander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necro1*
> 
> 
> my corsair ax1200 is holding up like a champ


What stuff do you have?
i pull over 1600w + from 1200i + 860i with 3x titan @ 1340 + 3930k 5.1Ghz








Overvolted to max !


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Flexible screwdriver extensions? so cool, never here about before.. hahaha!
> I prefer to buy a real case that don't need magic moves. BTW, I still hate this board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which case do you use?
Click to expand...

BitFenix Shinobi XL customized HF "High Airflow" customized as Extreme Watercooled


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> BitFenix Shinobi XL customized HF "High Airflow" customized as Extreme Watercooled


oh cool









when are you gonna get a caselabs for your beast computer?









the best deserves the best!


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvelander*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *necro1*
> 
> 
> my corsair ax1200 is holding up like a champ
> 
> 
> 
> What stuff do you have?
> i pull over 1600w + from 1200i + 860i with 3x titan @ 1340 + 3930k 5.1Ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overvolted to max !
Click to expand...

Do you replace and increase your Whole House Air Conditioner for those three titans?
I did it from 3 to 3.5 Ton and add a bigger heat collector.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> BitFenix Shinobi XL customized HF "High Airflow" customized as Extreme Watercooled
> 
> 
> 
> oh cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when are you gonna get a caselabs for your beast computer?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the best deserves the best!
Click to expand...

Slinky Supercomputer


----------



## kpoeticg

I think your Parrot would like the Caselabs build quality very much. You could throw an extra accessory mount in there just as a perch


----------



## Dantrax

Don't know if this is the correct forum to ask this but, I'm doing a fresh Win7 Pro 64bit install with this board & I disabled everything except LAN in the bios. Win7 device manager shows 3 items with no drivers. Base System Device, Unknown Device, & PCI Simple Communications Controller. I know the 3rd one the PCI SCC is Intel Management Engine related but I don't remember seeing the other 2 when I installed my RIVE. I've installed F6 floppy drivers & Intel infinst_autol.exe & the LAN drivers. Anybody have any clues.


----------



## DooRules

On w8 the only one I had to address was the MEI driver taking care of PCI. The other two did not show for me. I guess you turned off bluetooth, you have anything external hooked up to pc?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html
> 
> +
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would that have worked ?
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at those pics of how tight that was, I suspect that wouldn't have reached, but I think these might have. I've used both kinds of flexible screwdriver extensions and they do work wonders getting into tight spots like that.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Flexible screwdriver extensions? so cool, never here about before.. hahaha!
> I prefer to buy a real case that don't need magic moves. BTW, *I still hate this board*
Click to expand...

I feel that I can say, without fear of significant contradiction, that the feeling is quite mutual.

D.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Finally got the water moving in its dark veins, and now, "It's Alive"!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installing Windows 7 now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More eye candy:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW... I wish someone told me I had the RAM in the wrong slots before I fired it up. Got a B5 error on first startup... which had nothing to do with the RAM slot allocation. Google was my friend.. and didn't take long to figure out...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


love it


----------



## Dantrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DooRules*
> 
> On w8 the only one I had to address was the MEI driver taking care of PCI. The other two did not show for me. I guess you turned off bluetooth, you have anything external hooked up to pc?


Yup Bluetooth disabled. No the R4BE is on a piece of cardboard on my bed with a 780ti, 4930k, 32Gb Kingston Beast ram, a DVD, an SSD, a thumb drive, a LAN cable, a keyboard & mouse plugged into it & naturally the PSU cables. That's it. Well let me load some more updates create a restore point & install MEI & see what's left. Thanks


----------



## hotrod717

Is it just me, or does LLC not work what so ever??? I've tried 25%, 50%, and 75% and load voltage has not changed one bit. High(50%) should be close to actual and ultra(75%) should overshoot just a bit. I'm not seeing it with offset or manual.

^^^ More like love/hate relationship. Looks great and does mediocre pretty well, but still needs some polishing. Come on Asus, where's the bios update! Once the settings work correctly, this mobo is going to be great, until then, it's a nice show piece.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvelander*
> 
> What stuff do you have?
> i pull over 1600w + from 1200i + 860i with 3x titan @ 1340 + 3930k 5.1Ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overvolted to max !


Just curious what you run your ram @ w/ the 3930k?

My OC failed this morning, was most definitely a ram failure due to the way the system wasn't even getting to the bios screen. I WAS pushing 2400mhz @ 8cas 10,10,28 w/ trident X


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just curious what you run your ram @ w/ the 3930k?
> 
> My OC failed this morning, was most definitely a ram failure due to the way the system wasn't even getting to the bios screen. I WAS pushing 2400mhz @ 8cas 10,10,28 w/ trident X


That's that ghost. Lol


----------



## skupples




----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> love it


Thanks... I appreciate that...









I ran into another snag yesterday after installing Window 7... download all updates and drivers. I hook up my other 2 monitors for tri-surround, and only 2 screens turn on. Looked in BIOS and I see 3 GPU's in the PCI-e slots... but the nvidia control panel only showed 2 GPU's. CPU-Z showed that my second card had no Clock and Memory. Thank God for the PCI-e dip switches on the RIV BE. I disabled all the PCI-e slots except the problem GPU slot and rebooted. I get a message to power down and connect the PCI cables. When I examined the cables for that card, the 2 pin dongle on the 6+2 PCI cable wasn't plugged in correctly. Plugged it in... and now I have my tri-surround again.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















I bought Windows 7 and 8, now I'm debating if I should upgrade to Windows 8 now. I see a lot of people sticking with 7. Is it worth upgrading to 8?


----------



## wermad

Almost there w/ my temporary setup. Waiting for BE block and then I'll put in the ram blocks too.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I love CL functionality but not the aesthetics. Thats why I went for the TJ11 instead. Looks amazing and has all the features I want/need (removable mobo tray, space for multiple rads including a 560, and all aluminum construction)...


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I bought Windows 7 and 8, now I'm debating if I should upgrade to Windows 8 now. I see a lot of people sticking with 7. Is it worth upgrading to 8?


8's good, i wasn't a big fan at first as it takes a little time to get used to coming from 7, but for a 24/7 gaming rig i prefer it and it's now the primary OS in my gaming rig.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Any word on a BIOS update?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I love CL functionality but not the aesthetics. Thats why I went for the TJ11 instead. Looks amazing and has all the features I want/need (removable mobo tray, space for multiple rads including a 560, and all aluminum construction)...


i like the tj11









did you see singularity computers "cytotoxic" build he put into one? truly amazing work.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> 8's good, i wasn't a big fan at first as it takes a little time to get used to coming from 7, but for a 24/7 gaming rig i prefer it and it's now the primary OS in my gaming rig.


I have no issues with Win 8.1. I set it to boot to the desktop and I have customized my start screen but I have icons for my most commonly used programs on my desktop task bar. Now that they added the start icon with its right click menu options I am fine with it. Also it boots faster.


----------



## VertKiller

Well. I think some are just looking for any kind of excuse to give themselves a reason to buy a caselab or try to make someone feel bad for not buying a cl. It's much better to pay hundreds of dollars on a new case rather than paying a couple for a tool that would do the job. Better to buy a new case because the filter screens come off to easy. You still need to buy the better filters from another company for that new case after buying it. Even though that same company would make those filters for your 900d. ( if I read that correctly ).

I get it. CL cases are some of the best. Bragging right worthy.

But to me IMHO, are still just overpriced boxes that look the same as any other cl case. I would rather build a case from scratch. It could be bigger, more unique shaped than box for less money. It is so easy to buy a good replacement motherboard tray to build around. I have the tools and shop to do this. Just not the time or energy right now as RL threw a major gutter ball at me. So that is why I bought the 900d while it was on sale.

I'm sorry I posted the pic of my new case. I didn't think it would cause such controversy and hate. I can just imagine how many will be looking down their noses at me for only having a couple of 770's. But I'm happy with what I have so far.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Well. I think some are just looking for any kind of excuse to give themselves a reason to buy a caselab or try to make someone feel bad for not buying a cl. It's much better to pay hundreds of dollars on a new case rather than paying a couple for a tool that would do the job. Better to buy a new case because the filter screens come off to easy. You still need to buy the better filters from another company for that new case after buying it. Even though that same company would make those filters for your 900d. ( if I read that correctly ).
> 
> I get it. CL cases are some of the best. Bragging right worthy.
> 
> But to me IMHO, are still just overpriced boxes that look the same as any other cl case. I would rather build a case from scratch. It could be bigger, more unique shaped than box for less money. It is so easy to buy a good replacement motherboard tray to build around. I have the tools and shop to do this. Just not the time or energy right now as RL threw a major gutter ball at me. So that is why I bought the 900d while it was on sale.
> 
> I'm sorry I posted the pic of my new case. I didn't think it would cause such controversy and hate. I can just imagine how many will be looking down their noses at me for only having a couple of 770's. But I'm happy with what I have so far.


i dont think anyone is trying to make you feel bad for owning a 900D, atleast thats not my intention. The 900D is a great case especially for the price, it just has a few oddball things about it that i hated, which i cant say the same about my CL, so far it has been good to me, but im sure ill eventually find something wrong with it. When i first got the 900D i couldnt find anything wrong with it except the crap dust filter they include, which is free, so thats nice. Demciflex does make filters for the 900D, but theyre $100 or so, so i stuck with the free included one. the demciflex filters are amazing though and definitely worth their price now that ive used them in person.

dont feel bad about your 900D or 770s, those are some great pieces of hardware you got there!


----------



## skupples




----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


----------



## skupples

I loath love my 900dudD

well actually, I mostly loath the bay res.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I loath love my 900dudD
> 
> well actually, I mostly loath the bay res.


thats what you get for going bay res


----------



## erayser

I'm glad I got rid my bay res. When I switched a tube res with the dual pump top, it was so much easier to fill my loop and bleed. Plus, I didn't like how my tubing went into the bay.

I really wanted to get a caselab case when I first seen them a few years ago. I was determined to get one for my next build. But when I got in to tri-surround monitors, I ran out of space in my office. I just don't have room for a large case in my office... as you can see from my previous post. I can't even fit a 900D. I'm fine with my 800D... temps are fine... and it fits in the only place I can put it... under my desk. Plus... I like how watercooling loops look in smaller cases aesthetically. Now that people are using acrylic tubing, it works well in tight spaces. I think if I did a build in a CL case, I would use good ole fat tubing like what wermad did. BTW... nice job wermad.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> 8's good, i wasn't a big fan at first as it takes a little time to get used to coming from 7, but for a 24/7 gaming rig i prefer it and it's now the primary OS in my gaming rig.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> I have no issues with Win 8.1. I set it to boot to the desktop and I have customized my start screen but I have icons for my most commonly used programs on my desktop task bar. Now that they added the start icon with its right click menu options I am fine with it. Also it boots faster.


Thanks... I might upgrade to Windows 8 then. How well does it do with tri-surround monitors?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Lol. In many case the 900D has been great. The few cons are easily overlooked. It's flimsy, but is not like its gonna collapse. Not all aluminum, but it's not 600 dollars, and big enough for my 2 Monsta rads and A bunch of other parts. I'm working on a motherboard tray, which should give it a nicer, and much cleaner look.


----------



## szeged

the pros definitely outweigh the cons of the 900D, hell there are almost no cons to the 900D except a few and even then they can be fixed with some modding.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the pros definitely outweigh the cons of the 900D, hell there are almost no cons to the 900D except a few and even then they can be fixed with some modding.


Yep. Another common problem that people encounter is when they order the case and rads before realizing that if you install a 480 on the bottom you can only do a 240 natively in the front. To keep it in topic, I'm just gonna say that I'm glad my Rampage Black fits with no problem. Lol


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I'm glad I got rid my bay res. When I switched a tube res with the dual pump top, it was so much easier to fill my loop and bleed. Plus, I didn't like how my tubing went into the bay.
> 
> I really wanted to get a caselab case when I first seen them a few years ago. I was determined to get one for my next build. But when I got in to tri-surround monitors, I ran out of space in my office. I just don't have room for a large case in my office... as you can see from my previous post. I can't even fit a 900D. I'm fine with my 800D... temps are fine... and it fits in the only place I can put it... under my desk. Plus... I like how watercooling loops look in smaller cases aesthetically. Now that people are using acrylic tubing, it works well in tight spaces. I think if I did a build in a CL case, I would use good ole fat tubing like what wermad did. BTW... nice job wermad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks... I might upgrade to Windows 8 then. How well does it do with tri-surround monitors?


No problem with Tri surround. I am using a pair of GTX SC 780ti's running 
three 1920 X 1200 24" monitors in surround @ 5760 X 1200. This pic was using Win 7 but it looks and works the same with WIn 8.1


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I think if I did a build in a CL case, I would use good ole fat tubing like what wermad did. BTW... nice job wermad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks... I might upgrade to Windows 8 then. How well does it do with tri-surround monitors?


It's been a couple of months since i last hung around the Surround club and ppl were still having issues w/ win8 and Surround. I know some ppl said its manageable as its a new os but a few have returned to 7 because of the issues. I didn't pull the trigger and I'm not ready to do so. I haven't heard any issues w/ Eyefinity but I'm not going to risk having more issues.


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> try these settings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> vCPU and VCCSA may need adjust according to your own CPU, otherwise the rest should work for you. :')


I tried these settings with no luck. Played with some voltages on VCCSA up to 1.250, VCore up to 1.375 and vcore ratios from 40-45









4930k and these Muskin sticks http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226275

Couldn't get it to post at all, what am I doing wrong here ?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Couldn't get it to post at all, what am I doing wrong here ?


try 1.7 vDIMM. IF that doesn't work, but the chip seems fine at stock = bum chip IMHO. There's only so many settings to paly with, really, try PLL overvolt, etc, but no post = useless info without a post code.


----------



## saer

Alright I'll give that a shot, thanks.


----------



## saer

Ok just started fresh and attempted a "quick & dirty" OC, system is stable at 4.5 w/ 1.4vcore @ 2133









Gonna try for 4.6 and see how much I can drop the vcore


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Ok just started fresh and attempted a "quick & dirty" OC, system is stable at 4.5 w/ 1.4vcore @ 2133
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna try for 4.6 and see how much I can drop the vcore


Puree your CPU with voltage! Great Idea!


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Puree your CPU with voltage! Great Idea!


Hardly









Settling on 4.6ghz w/ 1.3vcore @ 2133 for tonight









Will test out my 3960x and 3930k tomorrow, not sure if I'll stick with Ivy or not


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Hardly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settling on 4.6ghz w/ 1.3vcore @ 2133 for tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will test out my 3960x and 3930k tomorrow, not sure if I'll stick with Ivy or not


Hit up szeged, he's pulling some very nice numbers with lower voltages then what i typically see for IB-E (4930K). Might be his cpu(s) or his tweaking. Good place to get some more tips


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yep. Another common problem that people encounter is when they order the case and rads before realizing that if you install a 480 on the bottom you can only do a 240 natively in the front. To keep it in topic, I'm just gonna say that I'm glad my Rampage Black fits with no problem. Lol


So what is better. 2 360's or 480 with 240. I like the look of the 480 on the bottom. Any images of 2 360's. I tried looking in the 900d club but it is for many corsair cases so there is no organization to one particular case.

Also I bought a D5 pump so I could just put the top I wanted on it and go tube res. But I'm having a hard time trying to figure out those parts that work with the D5. It almost seems like I would have had a better choice with DDC pump. Like, can I use a double D5 top with one pump and a plug to start. Can I put 2 tube res's on a dual pump top or do I need to go with 2 single res/pump system to get that look?

What tube res systems are you guys using. D5 or DDC. Not that I will return my D5 as my understanding is that the D5 is the better / quieter pump.

I also see that the 4930's just jumped back up in price, here in Canada anyways. Hope the price drops again in a couple of weeks like I tend to see the past few years at that time.


----------



## feartheturtle

A little off topic but can I purchase the Intel Performance Tuning Plan for my i7-4930K processor if I bought it off eBay? Do I need to show original proof of purchase or something because the seller says that he can't provide the sales receipt; the processor was brand new and came with retail box though.


----------



## strong island 1

I forgot to join this club. mobo block still at ek processing but hopefully will be here soon.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> So what is better. 2 360's or 480 with 240. I like the look of the 480 on the bottom. Any images of 2 360's. I tried looking in the 900d club but it is for many corsair cases so there is no organization to one particular case.
> 
> Also I bought a D5 pump so I could just put the top I wanted on it and go tube res. But I'm having a hard time trying to figure out those parts that work with the D5. It almost seems like I would have had a better choice with DDC pump. Like, can I use a double D5 top with one pump and a plug to start. Can I put 2 tube res's on a dual pump top or do I need to go with 2 single res/pump system to get that look?
> 
> What tube res systems are you guys using. D5 or DDC. Not that I will return my D5 as my understanding is that the D5 is the better / quieter pump.
> 
> I also see that the 4930's just jumped back up in price, here in Canada anyways. Hope the price drops again in a couple of weeks like I tend to see the past few years at that time.


In all honesty two 480s are enough. You don't really gain anything from adding another 240. Unless you already have it, then that's a different conversation.

I'm just using a threaded Swiftech MCP655 with a tube res. nothing fancy.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Well. I think some are just looking for any kind of excuse to give themselves a reason to buy a caselab or try to make someone feel bad for not buying a cl. It's much better to pay hundreds of dollars on a new case rather than paying a couple for a tool that would do the job. Better to buy a new case because the filter screens come off to easy. You still need to buy the better filters from another company for that new case after buying it. Even though that same company would make those filters for your 900d. ( if I read that correctly ).
> 
> I get it. CL cases are some of the best. Bragging right worthy.
> 
> But to me IMHO, are still just overpriced boxes that look the same as any other cl case. I would rather build a case from scratch. It could be bigger, more unique shaped than box for less money. It is so easy to buy a good replacement motherboard tray to build around. I have the tools and shop to do this. Just not the time or energy right now as RL threw a major gutter ball at me. So that is why I bought the 900d while it was on sale.
> 
> I'm sorry I posted the pic of my new case. I didn't think it would cause such controversy and hate. I can just imagine how many will be looking down their noses at me for only having a couple of 770's. But I'm happy with what I have so far.


No need to apologize dude, I love the 900D. Its a brilliant case and a massive improvement over the already industry-leading 800D that came before it. I've followed the case since George first teased it over a year ago and it did not disappoint. Is it as good as a customized CL case that costs twice as much? Of course not. But it is one of the best mass-produced cases ever made and has a ton of features that people have been asking of Corsair forever. You have nothing to be ashamed of, two 770's make for a kick-ass rig!


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feartheturtle*
> 
> A little off topic but can I purchase the Intel Performance Tuning Plan for my i7-4930K processor if I bought it off eBay? Do I need to show original proof of purchase or something because the seller says that he can't provide the sales receipt; the processor was brand new and came with retail box though.


I purchased the Tuning Plan from Intel, just in case, and I don't even plan to do any serious overclocking. (other then playing with getting memory to 2400). But I still think for the money, its a great deal, if Nothing else peace of mind.

But from what I read, the answer is no. Basically, you don't register an Intel. If you need warranty service during the warranty period, you basically send them the sales receipt and the Tuning Plan receipt.

So, I would think its best to save your money on the plan, since you have no sales receipt.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I've only ever bought brand new retail chips with the Tuning Plan so I don't know how that would work. It is an absolute no-brainer in my opinion...


----------



## binormalkilla

Finally got my GPU blocks installed and leak tested. Still waiting on the RIVBE block to ship from SLOVENIA! Here are some pics from my build, forgive my special needs photography skills.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I purchased the Tuning Plan from Intel, just in case, and I don't even plan to do any serious overclocking. (other then playing with getting memory to 2400). But I still think for the money, its a great deal, if Nothing else peace of mind.
> 
> But from what I read, the answer is no. Basically, you don't register an Intel. If you need warranty service during the warranty period, you basically send them the sales receipt and the Tuning Plan receipt.
> 
> So, I would think its best to save your money on the plan, since you have no sales receipt.


Wise decision


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Finally got my GPU blocks installed and leak tested. Still waiting on the RIVBE block to ship from SLOVENIA! Here are some pics from my build, forgive my special needs photography skills.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that first pic looks vaguely familiar...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yep. Another common problem that people encounter is when they order the case and rads before realizing that if you install a 480 on the bottom you can only do a 240 natively in the front. To keep it in topic, I'm just gonna say that I'm glad my Rampage Black fits with no problem. Lol
> 
> 
> 
> So what is better. 2 360's or 480 with 240. I like the look of the 480 on the bottom. Any images of 2 360's. I tried looking in the 900d club but it is for many corsair cases so there is no organization to one particular case.
> 
> Also I bought a D5 pump so I could just put the top I wanted on it and go tube res. But I'm having a hard time trying to figure out those parts that work with the D5. It almost seems like I would have had a better choice with DDC pump. Like, can I use a double D5 top with one pump and a plug to start. Can I put 2 tube res's on a dual pump top or do I need to go with 2 single res/pump system to get that look?
> 
> What tube res systems are you guys using. D5 or DDC. Not that I will return my D5 as my understanding is that the D5 is the better / quieter pump.
> 
> I also see that the 4930's just jumped back up in price, here in Canada anyways. Hope the price drops again in a couple of weeks like I tend to see the past few years at that time.
Click to expand...

there is no better pump between the d5 and ddc, each have their purpose
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I forgot to join this club. mobo block still at ek processing but hopefully will be here soon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


welcome !!


----------



## feartheturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I purchased the Tuning Plan from Intel, just in case, and I don't even plan to do any serious overclocking. (other then playing with getting memory to 2400). But I still think for the money, its a great deal, if Nothing else peace of mind.
> 
> But from what I read, the answer is no. Basically, you don't register an Intel. If you need warranty service during the warranty period, you basically send them the sales receipt and the Tuning Plan receipt.
> 
> So, I would think its best to save your money on the plan, since you have no sales receipt.


Alright in that case I'll go ahead and buy the tuning plan just in case Intel doesn't honor the standard warranty. $25 is a small price to pay for peace of mind on a $500+ cpu.


----------



## wermad

Just hooked up my Logitech x530s and the sound is better then the Sniper5 Creatives chip!

Time to start pushing my cpu


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> that first pic looks vaguely familiar...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











This case is awesome to work with, eh?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just hooked up my Logitech x530s and the sound is better then the Sniper5 Creatives chip!
> 
> Time to start pushing my cpu


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This case is awesome to work with, eh?


Nice! let us know what your power draw is.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Nice! let us know what your power draw is.


I almost overloaded my 1200VA UPS, so I had to move it to another surge protector. It was around 1kW from the wall during 3dmark at stock GPU and 4.5 CPU. That's with 21 fans, 2 SSDs, 2 mechanical drives.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This case is awesome to work with, eh?


i love it but it gets kinda small after putting monsta rads into it


----------



## SDMODNoob

Anyone find these included programs on the install disk useful? Namely ROG Gamefirst / AI Suite 3 / Wi - Fi GO.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I purchased the Tuning Plan from Intel, just in case, and I don't even plan to do any serious overclocking. (other then playing with getting memory to 2400). But I still think for the money, its a great deal, if Nothing else peace of mind.
> 
> But from what I read, the answer is no. Basically, you don't register an Intel. If you need warranty service during the warranty period, you basically send them the sales receipt and the Tuning Plan receipt.
> 
> So, I would think its best to save your money on the plan, since you have no sales receipt.


I just picked up the tuning plan. It required zero proof of purchase, you just give them 35$(for 3930k). From what I can tell, all you do is send them the chip + proof of plan purchase & you get a new one back.


----------



## wermad

any tips to tweak the audio?


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Anyone find these included programs on the install disk useful? Namely ROG Gamefirst / AI Suite 3 / Wi - Fi GO.


Not used game first or looked into wi-fi go but the AI suite is very handy. Really good for setting fan profiles and tweaking some bios settings.


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> any tips to tweak the audio?


If it's for music then try Pure Music.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> If it's for music then try Pure Music.


As that a setting w/in the audio cp or a separate program?


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> As that a setting w/in the audio cp or a separate program?


Oh, cancel that, didn't realise it was Mac only!

This might help&#8230;

http://www.audioholics.com/how-to-shop/best-audiophile-music-software


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I just picked up the tuning plan. It required zero proof of purchase, you just give them 35$(for 3930k). From what I can tell, all you do is send them the chip + proof of plan purchase & you get a new one back.


Hmmm, I've bought the plan on my CPUs beu haven't (yet) had to use it, but I always assumed you would have to provide some sort of a proof of purchase because the Terms & Conditions you have to agree to says ..
Quote:


> [...] [...] The Plan provides a one-time replacement: (i) only applicable to the replacement of Eligible Processors and (ii) *only when the Plan is purchased within one (1) year of the purchase of the Eligible Processor.* [...]


Can't imagine there's many ways to provide proof that the plan was purchased within one year of purchase unless they require some form of a receipt. I guess if you bought the plan within a yr of a CPUs release by intel, for example bought the plan now on an Ivy E CPU that was just released in Sept 2013, they might take that into account (I wouldn't take that for granted though), but if you bought the plan now on a SB E CPU which was released back in 2011, how else would they be able to confirm that you bought it new in the past year except for if you can provide some proof of purchase?

I would think that there has to be someone here who has actually had to use the plan who could say for sure, isn't there?


----------



## IT Diva

And the race is on . . . .

Strangely enough, I got an email from FCPU yesterday, that my R4BE block has shipped, although they still only show as "orderable".

I suppose that they fill the orders taken while a product is "orderable" with the first arriving product, and don't list it as "in stock" until all the pre-orders are filled.

For some reason, even though I knew when I ordered it, that it would be a while before it ever shipped, I paid the extra $20 for Express Mail shipping. ( I must be desperate or something)

I also got a "shipped" email a few days ago from EK, even though they were supposedly on holiday, that my block had shipped via DHL.

So it looks like I'll end up with 2 of them in a few days.

Not sure whether to sell the second one, or to just go buy another R4BE for it . . . . .









Will be interesting to see which one gets here first!

Either way, I'll be mighty excited to get it installed. It's the last piece of the loops puzzle. . . . .

Well unless I can't control my urges and go for the A6 cooling bits with the water block.













Darlene


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Oh, cancel that, didn't realise it was Mac only!
> 
> This might help&#8230;
> 
> http://www.audioholics.com/how-to-shop/best-audiophile-music-software


Hackint0sh


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, I've bought the plan on my CPUs beu haven't (yet) had to use it, but I always assumed you would have to provide some sort of a proof of purchase because the Terms & Conditions you have to agree to says ..
> Can't imagine there's many ways to provide proof that the plan was purchased within one year of purchase unless they require some form of a receipt. I guess if you bought the plan within a yr of a CPUs release by intel, for example bought the plan now on an Ivy E CPU that was just released in Sept 2013, they might take that into account (I wouldn't take that for granted though), but if you bought the plan now on a SB E CPU which was released back in 2011, how else would they be able to confirm that you bought it new in the past year except for if you can provide some proof of purchase?
> 
> I would think that there has to be someone here who has actually had to use the plan who could say for sure, isn't there?


hrmm... Guess i just clicked over that... I expected them to have a slot where you had to put in the chips serial number, or bin # or something. I hope an E-bay receipt is good enough, assuming I ever have to use it.

I think @Majin SSJ Eric has used the plan, maybe he can weigh in.

Btw, I avoid most of the bloatware in that disk, the RADAR software was dumb as hell. It would put a giant red circle on my screen inside 3d apps.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I just picked up the tuning plan. It required zero proof of purchase, you just give them 35$(for 3930k). From what I can tell, all you do is send them the chip + proof of plan purchase & you get a new one back.


Well, not exactly. You are right it don't require any proof of purchase to buy plan.

BUT, the OP, don't have the original bill of sale. He bought it on e-bay.

To get service, you send in the original receipt and the tuning plan receipt. They take that info and it will tell them if you bought the tuning within one year of purchase, and if its still under warranty, etc.

So, unless he contacts Intel or someone here knows better, I stand by the advice I told him.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Anyone find these included programs on the install disk useful? Namely ROG Gamefirst / AI Suite 3 / Wi - Fi GO.


My personal favorite is ROG Ramdisk. I have 64 gigs of memory so plenty leftover to make RAM disks. Seems to really be slick and work good. If you have any trouble with the drive not showing up upon reboot, please see my earlier post on a fix for that.

I also been using there Kaspersky anti-virus (one year subscription). I haven't had any problems with it. So far, it leaves me alone. If its protected me much, not sure. I do see by the performance network tab, its processes is intercepting and doing most of my network activity such as web browsing. So I do know, its not just showing in my system tray doing nothing. LOL


----------



## skupples

That's pretty fail on intel's part. They should require the CPU bin # @ the time of tuning plan purchase. I highly doubt i'll be able to track down my actual bill of sale. IE:35$ to intel for nothing.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I forgot to join this club. mobo block still at ek processing but hopefully will be here soon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


VELCOME TO ZE CLUB MAI FWEND!!!


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's pretty fail on intel's part. They should require the CPU bin # @ the time of tuning plan purchase. I highly doubt i'll be able to track down my actual bill of sale. IE:35$ to intel for nothing.


Not necessary. I read thru the agreement pretty good before giving them my 35 dollars of hard earned money. (Well, my job is pretty easy, but I still got to be there. lol).

It states that you can get a refund before so much time passes. So you very well may be able to get a refund.

Here is what I would do personally. I would contact Intel (email, phone or on-line chat if they have it) and see if your e-bay receipt is good enough for warranty repair. If it is, then would keep the tuning plan. If not, get the refund.

I realize in this day and age, 35 dollars isn't much, but I would not to spend even that for no benefit at all.

Just my .02 worth.


----------



## Valice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bughole5*
> 
> i got that error too, i used my usb on the usb 1.0 slots in the back and it worked fine, just cant use usb 3.0 to install windows


thank you SO MUCH! I was so close to going crazy over getting windows to install on my RAID0 setup and no matter which driver I threw at it, it rejected them all, even custom modded ones... to think that all of that would just go away by NOT using USB 3.0 on the win7 install flash device... I don't think I'd have ever tried that out, so kudos and +REP to you


----------



## skupples

@MrTOOSHORT Hey! Sorry to summon you... The other day you told me to adjust to the short power limit to X & Y... Can you refresh me on what those were? thx


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And the race is on . . . .
> 
> Strangely enough, I got an email from FCPU yesterday, that my R4BE block has shipped, although they still only show as "orderable".
> 
> I suppose that they fill the orders taken while a product is "orderable" with the first arriving product, and don't list it as "in stock" until all the pre-orders are filled.
> 
> For some reason, even though I knew when I ordered it, that it would be a while before it ever shipped, I paid the extra $20 for Express Mail shipping. ( I must be desperate or something)
> 
> I also got a "shipped" email a few days ago from EK, even though they were supposedly on holiday, that my block had shipped via DHL.
> 
> So it looks like I'll end up with 2 of them in a few days.
> 
> Not sure whether to sell the second one, or to just go buy another R4BE for it . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be interesting to see which one gets here first!
> 
> Either way, I'll be mighty excited to get it installed. It's the last piece of the loops puzzle. . . . .
> 
> Well unless I can't control my urges and go for the A6 cooling bits with the water block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


If you have the blocks from the RIVE don't spend another $140 just ad more 1.5mm Thermal pad

You all welcome


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And the race is on . . . .
> 
> Strangely enough, I got an email from FCPU yesterday, that my R4BE block has shipped, although they still only show as "orderable".
> 
> I suppose that they fill the orders taken while a product is "orderable" with the first arriving product, and don't list it as "in stock" until all the pre-orders are filled.
> 
> For some reason, even though I knew when I ordered it, that it would be a while before it ever shipped, I paid the extra $20 for Express Mail shipping. ( I must be desperate or something)
> 
> I also got a "shipped" email a few days ago from EK, even though they were supposedly on holiday, that my block had shipped via DHL.
> 
> So it looks like I'll end up with 2 of them in a few days.
> 
> Not sure whether to sell the second one, or to just go buy another R4BE for it . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be interesting to see which one gets here first!
> 
> Either way, I'll be mighty excited to get it installed. It's the last piece of the loops puzzle. . . . .
> 
> Well unless I can't control my urges and go for the A6 cooling bits with the water block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


My UPS tracking number does not work.

I've never been so anxious for a package to arrive.



Just waiting on the R4BE blocks to arrive.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> If you have the blocks from the RIVE don't spend another $140 just ad more 1.5mm Thermal pad.. You all welcome


What?!?!?!?!? so the Extreme block fits the BE w/ just thicker pads! Nice find!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What?!?!?!?!? so the Extreme block fits the BE w/ just thicker pads! Nice find!


yeah, he posted him putting it together a few pages back


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah, he posted him putting it together a few pages back


Never mind, looks like its only for the vrm block. He's not running the pch block. I'll just wait


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah, he posted him putting it together a few pages back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never mind, looks like its only for the vrm block. He's not running the pch block. I'll just wait
Click to expand...

I don't want to remove the SupremeFX Lighting then..
Regarding the Intel X79 Express chip, You should know that the EK water block cools exactly as much heat generating components as ASUS factory cooling solution.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I don't want to remove the SupremeFX Lighting then..
> Regarding the Intel X79 Express chip, You should know that the EK water block cools exactly as much heat generating components as ASUS factory cooling solution.


So you're saying the chipset Waterblock isn't any better than the stock heatsink? Why would EK even bother other than for taking our money? Lol


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I don't want to remove the SupremeFX Lighting then..
> Regarding the Intel X79 Express chip, You should know that the EK water block cools exactly as much heat generating components as ASUS factory cooling solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> So you're saying the chipset Waterblock isn't any better than the stock heatsink? Why would EK even bother other than for taking our money? Lol
Click to expand...

My pch was pretty warm at stock speed. I'm sure it will get a bit hot once i dial up the clocks. But I'm sure the stock heatsink can handle it as Asus knows there stuff









i'm going w/ full wc setup so I'll just wait for the CSQ BE block to be available in a few more weeks.

So far its been pretty smooth. I"m at 4.625 w/ just the bclk @ 125 and 37x multi (1.325v). I've been down this path a few times with a few different boards (RIVE and X79 Pro) using this same cpu model. The BE has been very easy and pleasant to work with. Gonna see if I can get to 5.0 but I'll settle for 4.8-4.9 tbh


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I don't want to remove the SupremeFX Lighting then..
> Regarding the Intel X79 Express chip, You should know that the EK water block cools exactly as much heat generating components as ASUS factory cooling solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you're saying the chipset Waterblock isn't any better than the stock heatsink? Why would EK even bother other than for taking our money? Lol
Click to expand...

Positive, especially on my rig where I cooling even the pumps and the HDD I will don't need a chipset waterblock, my case is colder that fluid. EK make a big publicity with there release in the middle of December, is January and you don't have one, I do by using the old one from RIVE


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's pretty fail on intel's part. They should require the CPU bin # @ the time of tuning plan purchase. I highly doubt i'll be able to track down my actual bill of sale. IE:35$ to intel for nothing.


I doubt it's a fail. A lot of people are very non careful with the recipe, and Intel would get 35 $ as a freebie. Then there is also the small problem what would you get as your CPU replacement. If Intel is wise, the CPU wouldn't be that great. Better pieces would be reserved for normal sales, and normal RMAs.

Also folks. USB 3.0 on x79 isn't native, and W7 might be allergic when they are installed from it, so use either SATA DVD ROM, some kind of Linux bootstrap to install from iso, install from normal HD, or in worst case NATIVE USB 2.0. It's for the same reason why installing OS from RAID, or on RAID might be PITA with some RAID cards.


----------



## skupples

please learn to use

Code:



Code:


[SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][/SPOILER]

also, 3930k is 35$, 4930k is 20 or 25$. Most likely because 3930k is one of the most common chips to go under the LN2 pot.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> please learn to use
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][/SPOILER]
> 
> also, 3930k is 35$, 4930k is 20 or 25$. Most likely because 3930k is one of the most common chips to go under the LN2 pot.


3930K are not that great under LN2 from what I understand most use water chiller and achieve similar performance the 4930K is what takes off when LN2/DICE gets involved. My guess would be the 3930K was more prone to fail with high voltage etc instead of degrade where as the 4930K are less likely to fail and more likely to degrade. This is all guessing so I do not know there reasoning I guess know there reasoning but I bet what ever the reason intel is still coming on the upper end of the deal.


----------



## alancsalt

You don't think that it is the Sandy Bridge/Ivy Bridge differences being the same in the "Extreme" versions?


----------



## hotrod717

Is LLC working for anybody on this mobo??? I'd like to confirm if it's a common issue or just my board. I see no change with Regular, High, or Ultra using offset. Load voltage should be different using different settings. ???


----------



## Mega Man

are you sure your looking at the right volts and not the vid ?


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you sure your looking at the right volts and not the vid ?


Yes. Regardless of setting my load voltage always shows 1.408v. I also have MVE and never had issues seeing the change. I was hoping this was common and not MY mobo's issue, i.e. need new bios.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm pretty sure all I had to do was furnish a SKU when I bought the Tuning Plan and then they (Intel) sent me an activation code for the $$$. When you decide to return the CPU you just give them the activation code and as long as the chip matches the SKU you provided at the time of the sale they will send you a replacement no questions asked. As I recall it was a very simple process...


----------



## Mega Man

your not the first person i have heard say this


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, it was really smooth. And the chip they sent me was a brand new in the box replacement that I highly doubt was binned as a Tuning Plan replacement (though I sold it BNIB so I don'r know what kind of clocker it really was)...


----------



## wermad

Love this board









got the cpu to 5.0 1.425v is stable so far. Though I'm gonna sit it 4875mhz for my 24/7 setup w/ 1.375v. By far the easiest and most stable x79 board I've owned! Woot, woot!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Yes. Regardless of setting my load voltage always shows 1.408v. I also have MVE and never had issues seeing the change. I was hoping this was common and not MY mobo's issue, i.e. need new bios.


I'm noticing that it's more along the lines of 2 actual settings, instead of the 4 or 5 that the bios shows. High, ultra high, & Extreme all seem to respond the same.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Love this board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got the cpu to 5.0 1.425v is stable so far. Though I'm gonna sit it 4875mhz for my 24/7 setup w/ 1.375v. By far the easiest and most stable x79 board I've owned! Woot, woot!


ohhh that's nice! I'm working on dialing it back in, I pushed my mem too far & had to clear CMOS. I'm @ 4.8 @ 1.46, but i'm pretty sure its way more than I need, specially since I have HT off atm. Are you using strap?


----------



## wermad

Not using strap







.

I can boot w/ 1.400v but its not stable.


----------



## cruzdi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I don't want to remove the SupremeFX Lighting then..
> Regarding the Intel X79 Express chip, You should know that the EK water block cools exactly as much heat generating components as ASUS factory cooling solution.


I am sure this is a translation problem. What EK means is that it cools *as many* (not as much) heat generating components as ASUS.


----------



## cruzdi

I am new at water cooling and I had a problem. I found all this white junk in my water.
What is it and what can I do about it?
The top picture is part of filter that got completely clogged up. Should I keep the filter?


----------



## szeged

looks like plasticizer leaking through the loop, what tubing are you using?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, it was really smooth. And the chip they sent me was a brand new in the box replacement that I highly doubt was binned as a Tuning Plan replacement (though I sold it BNIB so I don'r know what kind of clocker it really was)...


How can a safely kill my CPU so I can use my intel tuning program? By safely I mean not harming anything else along the process.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> How can a safely kill my CPU so I can use my intel tuning program? By safely I mean not harming anything else along the process.


a hammer would probably work.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Love this board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got the cpu to 5.0 1.425v is stable so far. Though I'm gonna sit it 4875mhz for my 24/7 setup w/ 1.375v. By far the easiest and most stable x79 board I've owned! Woot, woot!


Nice... but it could be the chip too.








But the board is nice also.









I got my 4930k to 4.7 @ 1.376v... but didn't do any real stability test. Just used it for a day doing everyday light stuff.. installing apps, games, and benching 3Dmark FS with no crashes. I dropped it down to 4.5 @ 1.264 for my 24/7 setup. Played games all day today and it's been solid. I bought Tomb Raider during one of the steam sales not to long ago, so I've been playing with that mostly... and a little bit of Battlefield. Something about Lara Croft's hair on ultimate settings. Makes me stare at her flowing hair... and forget what I'm supposed to do or go in the game.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> a hammer would probably work.


I was thinking of a way to discharge static electricity into it lol
Or feeding it 5 volts but I'm afraid that May damage other components


----------



## cruzdi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> looks like plasticizer leaking through the loop, what tubing are you using?


I am using Tygon A-60-G Norprene 1/2" ID (3/4" OD). I thought this was a good choice.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> I am using Tygon A-60-G Norprene 1/2" ID (3/4" OD). I thought this was a good choice.


hmm, well then i dont think its plasticizer, what else do you have in the loop? component wise.


----------



## cruzdi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hmm, well then i dont think its plasticizer, what else do you have in the loop? component wise.


For the time being just the EK Supremacy CPU block, an EK dual D5 pumps w/reservoir, and two swiftech 240 radiators. I will be adding the ASUS 780 graphics card and the EK motherboard blocks to the loop in the next few days, but now I am worried...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Nice... but it could be the chip too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the board is nice also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my 4930k to 4.7 @ 1.376v... but didn't do any real stability test. Just used it for a day doing everyday light stuff.. installing apps, games, and benching 3Dmark FS with no crashes. I dropped it down to 4.5 @ 1.264 for my 24/7 setup. Played games all day today and it's been solid. I bought Tomb Raider during one of the steam sales not to long ago, so I've been playing with that mostly... and a little bit of Battlefield. Something about Lara Croft's hair on ultimate settings. Makes me stare at her flowing hair... and forget what I'm supposed to do or go in the game.


True, though I've had different experiences with the same cpu on different boards. The MB can make a big difference. And these are not golden numbers so im more inclined to think the BE is giving me the edge.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am new at water cooling and I had a problem. I found all this white junk in my water.
> What is it and what can I do about it?
> The top picture is part of filter that got completely clogged up. Should I keep the filter?


Is that koolance? I've seen heavy corrosion in their stuff before.


----------



## cruzdi

Yes, it is Koolance stuff.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you sure your looking at the right volts and not the vid ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your not the first person i have heard say this


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm noticing that it's more along the lines of 2 actual settings, instead of the 4 or 5 that the bios shows. High, ultra high, & Extreme all seem to respond the same.


I reinstalled bios and am getting some variance now. Definately buggy though.
Set for 1.4v using offset:
^ High LLC - Shows as 1.408 under load, but bsods @ 4.8v Had to drop it down to 4.7 to put and load it. Usually just under set voltage on other mobo's.


^ Ultra High - Shows as 1.408v under load as well, but is stable at 4.8v and is what I usually use on any mobo, as it's very close to set voltage.


^ Extreme LLC - Shows as 1.44v under load. That is an extreme overshoot. I was expecting 1.424v, but 1.44 is quite high for this setting.

*VCCIN is cpu voltage in HWinfo. I've tested this against CPUID as well.

LLC is certainly not working correctly on this board. Hope a bios update fixes this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am new at water cooling and I had a problem. I found all this white junk in my water.
> What is it and what can I do about it?
> The top picture is part of filter that got completely clogged up. Should I keep the filter?


What type of water are you using. Almost looks like calcium( hard water) deposits. Hope you're not using tap water.


----------



## Nalsur

Now i am proudly present my appointment to the Owners Club











System running @ 4,5 Ghz strap 100 @ 1,35v temp idle 30° and load 45°









ROG-board


----------



## jokrik

I just want to confirm a thing,
I will be running a xfire, I know that to get 16x , 16x I have to run it on slot 1 and 4
problem in since I have a beefy backplate and water block, I am unable to run the sound card at 3 slot

The only place I can put is on the last slot which is slot 6
If I put it there wouldn't it make the slot to run at 16x , 8x , 8x, 8x?
My card is an stx (1x)


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I just want to confirm a thing,
> I will be running a xfire, I know that to get 16x , 16x I have to run it on slot 1 and 4
> problem in since I have a beefy backplate and water block, I am unable to run the sound card at 3 slot
> 
> The only place I can put is on the last slot which is slot 6
> If I put it there wouldn't it make the slot to run at 16x , 8x , 8x, 8x?
> My card is an stx (1x)


You can also put the sound card in slots 3 or 5 as it doesn't require PCIe 3.0


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> You can also put the sound card in slots 3 or 5 as it doesn't require PCIe 3.0


as I said, 3 and 5 is a no go since the water block of my GPUs are too beefy

I'm just wondering if I put it on slot 6 (sound card) would it make the whole thing run at 16x, 8x, 8x, 8x


----------



## Doug2507

Ah, sorry, misread what you had written! Slot 2 will still run the gpu's at x16. Should fit in there using a bridge for the gpu's, it's the way i ran mine on a different board.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Ah, sorry, misread what you had written! Slot 2 will still run the gpu's at x16. Should fit in there using a bridge for the gpu's, it's the way i ran mine on a different board.


Really? I thought to run 2 GPUs you have to use slot 1 and 4 no matter what
and you use slot 2 to run 3 GPU's which run at 16x, 8x, 16x


----------



## Doug2507

Put the SC in slot 2, leave the gpu's where they are.


----------



## skupples

slots 1 & 4 are the only ones capable of 16x.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Put the SC in slot 2, leave the gpu's where they are.


I dont get how my brain works sometimes
solved

+1


----------



## RSharpe

Anandtech finally did a review: http://www.anandtech.com/show/7612/asus-rivbe/3

It's funny how most review sites have below average CPUs.


----------



## skupples

wuhh? Aren't those the voltages from the auto-oc' profiles?


----------



## RSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> wuhh? Aren't those the voltages from the auto-oc' profiles?


Are they? They put that chart under "Manual Overclocking". They did say they were manual overclocking using the auto as a guide, in which case they could just have been doing lazy overclocking.

My point is that so many review sites seem to get poor overclock results, and I wonder if it's more a case of reviewers not actually taking the time to do it well in the first place. From the results I've read from the sampling provided by the OCN community, it seems most IB-E chips aren't as bad as reviewers have made them out in their reviews.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nalsur*
> 
> Now i am proudly present my appointment to the Owners Club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> System running @ 4,5 Ghz strap 100 @ 1,35v temp idle 30° and load 45°
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ROG-board


Welcome to da club.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I just want to confirm a thing,
> I will be running a xfire, I know that to get 16x , 16x I have to run it on slot 1 and 4
> problem in since I have a beefy backplate and water block, I am unable to run the sound card at 3 slot
> 
> The only place I can put is on the last slot which is slot 6
> If I put it there wouldn't it make the slot to run at 16x , 8x , 8x, 8x?
> My card is an stx (1x)


see below there is a x1 slot perfect for you ( right in the middle of his pic ) , and if your waterblock is big enough to interfere i would love to see pics of that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nalsur*
> 
> Now i am proudly present my appointment to the Owners Club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> System running @ 4,5 Ghz strap 100 @ 1,35v temp idle 30° and load 45°
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ROG-board


welocme ~~


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> Are they? They put that chart under "Manual Overclocking". They did say they were manual overclocking using the auto as a guide, in which case they could just have been doing lazy overclocking.
> 
> My point is that so many review sites seem to get poor overclock results, and I wonder if it's more a case of reviewers not actually taking the time to do it well in the first place. From the results I've read from the sampling provided by the OCN community, it seems most IB-E chips aren't as bad as reviewers have made them out in their reviews.


ES chips are usually pretty bad, many reviewers stuck @ 4.3 GHz. Many did not get multiple chips. I managed to get three chips, only one is really good, and 1.25V @ 4.5 GHz, isn't exactly golden, either.

ES chips tend to come from batches a couple of weeks earlier than retail parts, too(L322xxxx).


----------



## rabidz7

I only have a sad little 680.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nalsur*
> 
> Now i am proudly present my appointment to the Owners Club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> System running @ 4,5 Ghz strap 100 @ 1,35v temp idle 30° and load 45°
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ROG-board


Grats!!! And welcome,

I'm almost done w/ my build thankfully, just posted a ton of updates earlier,

btw for all those new and those that came in late


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> slots 1 & 4 are the only ones capable of 16x.


You sure? Manual says slot #1 and slot #3 when you're only referring to the full 16x length slots. Which is typically how we call/describe them since you ignore any smaller and/or different types of slots (ie pci, pcie 1x, 4x, 8x).

From the manual:

(-slot type: max speed)

-pcie_16x: 16x
-empty
-pcie_16x: 8x
-pcie_1x
-pcie_16x: 16x/8x
-pcie_1x
-pcie_16x: 8x


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> slots 1 & 4 are the only ones capable of 16x.
> 
> 
> 
> You sure? Manual says slot #1 and slot #3 when you're only referring to the full 16x length slots. Which is typically how we call/describe them since you ignore any smaller and/or different types of slots (ie pci, pcie 1x, 4x, 8x).
> 
> From the manual:
> 
> (-slot type: max speed)
> 
> *1*-pcie_16x: *16x*
> -empty
> -pcie_16x: 8x
> -pcie_1x
> *4*-pcie_16x: *16x*/8x
> -pcie_1x
> -pcie_16x: 8x
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure he was referring to full x16 SLI,anything above would be x16x8x8..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I'm pretty sure he was referring to full x16 SLI












Imho, its easier to just refer to the 16x slots rather then whole thing. Makes it easy to correlate to things like bridges and blocks where they only refer to 16x slots. Same can be said about gpu since most are full length 16x slots


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You sure? Manual says slot #1 and slot #3 when you're only referring to the full 16x length slots. Which is typically how we call/describe them since you ignore any smaller and/or different types of slots (ie pci, pcie 1x, 4x, 8x).
> 
> From the manual:
> 
> (-slot type: max speed)
> 
> -pcie_16x: 16x
> -empty
> -pcie_16x: 8x
> -pcie_1x
> -pcie_16x: 16x/8x
> -pcie_1x
> -pcie_16x: 8x


You are correct, i'm counting logically, where as Asus calls them 3A & 3B or something along those lines.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Imho, its easier to just refer to the 16x slots rather then whole thing. Makes it easy to correlate to things like bridges and blocks where they only refer to 16x slots. Same can be said about gpu since most are full length 16x slots


seems to be gobbledygook since if you pick up an EK 3 slot dual sli bridge it won't fit in 1 & 3.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You sure? Manual says slot #1 and slot #3 when you're only referring to the full 16x length slots. Which is typically how we call/describe them since you ignore any smaller and/or different types of slots (ie pci, pcie 1x, 4x, 8x).
> 
> From the manual:
> 
> (-slot type: max speed)
> 
> -pcie_16x: 16x
> -empty
> -pcie_16x: 8x
> -pcie_1x
> -pcie_16x: 16x/8x
> -pcie_1x
> -pcie_16x: 8x


Not sure where this comes from. Skupples was correct.

The manual numbers the slots in order from top-to-bottom (all the slots, not ignoring any) and the 16x slots are #1 and #4.





Edit:

ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition manual (download)
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/J8670_Rampage_IV_Black_Edition.pdf


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You are correct, i'm counting logically, where as Asus calls them 3A & 3B or something along those lines.
> seems to be gobbledygook since if you pick up an EK 3 slot dual sli bridge it won't fit in 1 & 3.


Same thing, counting physical and counting actual 16x length slots. Yup, if you don't take into account that empty slot, you can make things a little be interesting when plumbing a bridge







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not sure where this comes from. Skupples was correct.
> 
> The manual numbers the slots in order from top-to-bottom (all the slots, not ignoring any) and the 16x slots are #1 and #4.


See above. Skupples was counting physical slots. I'm counting only pcie_16x *length* slots, since that's what you're looking for nah







?

ATX layout has seven slots, so that's where I started counting for my list there. makes it confusing hence why I recommend just count the 16x length pcie slots







. Asus left an empty slot #2 in the perspective of the ATX layout so you must take this into account when dealing w/ things like bridges and links for multi gpu block setups.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Same thing, counting physical and counting actual 16x length slots.
> See above. Skupples was counting physical slots. I'm counting only pcie_16x *length* slots, since that's what you're looking for nah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


I've never heard of anyone only counting full length slots, but in any case you had written that the "_Manual says slot #1 and slot #3_ ", and I was only trying to clear that up because that's not the manual says.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've never heard of anyone only counting full length slots, but in any case you had written that the "_Manual says slot #1 and slot #3_ ", and I was only trying to clear that up because that's not the manual says.


Counting 16x full length pcie slots brah







I doubt you wanna jam your 760 in a pcie 1x, or 4x, or 8x slot?

Here's a diagram to help understand what slots are called based on their physical design and *not* necessarily their speed:



edit: in the end, its the same thing, we're just looking at it in a different ways. I typical l just refer to the 16x length slots regardless of what speed it can do (1x, 4x, 8x, 16x).


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Counting 16x full length pcie slots brah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt you wanna jam your 760 in a pcie 1x, or 4x, or 8x slot?
> 
> Here's a diagram to help understand what slots are called based on their physical design and *not* necessarily their speed:
> 
> 
> 
> edit: in the end, its the same thing, we're just looking at it in a different ways. I typical l just refer to the 16x length slots regardless of what speed it can do (1x, 4x, 8x, 16x).


Wermad, curious since you have quad's running did you link them all up before finishing your loop or could I say ( since I have 3 Titans ) put 2 in my board for now that way I keep 1 in the current rig till I'm done w/ everything else so I can finish running my loops so GPU slots 1 and 3 and leave 2 empty for the 3rd card, that way I can continue running the loop to my upper rads etc then just add the middle on in last, or would that cause issues attempting to make the tubing fit?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wermad, curious since you have quad's running did you link them all up before finishing your loop or could I say ( since I have 3 Titans ) put 2 in my board for now that way I keep 1 in the current rig till I'm done w/ everything else so I can finish running my loops so GPU slots 1 and 3 and leave 2 empty for the 3rd card, that way I can continue running the loop to my upper rads etc then just add the middle on in last, or would that cause issues attempting to make the tubing fit?


They tested fine w/ the BE and once I confirm the mb is good, I put them all in. I have everything plumbed in minus the two ram blocks and the pending mb block. Temps are petty good. Cpu at 4875 ~ 55-60c and the gpu(s) at stock sit ~40c.

As far your setup, you can do that. run two on one rig and the other on the second rig. Once you're done, you can stick all gpu(s) on the main BE rig. I only used the BE (Boost Edition Lightning) to test the mb and cpu but after that, all four went in. Everything booted and amd immediately asked me to trigger crossfire.

Technically, you can run in any of the four pcie_16x slots since no single core gpu will max out 16x 3.0 speed tbh. Especially if you're not going for any world records. Do you have any links or a bridge?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Counting 16x full length pcie slots brah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt you wanna jam your 760 in a pcie 1x, or 4x, or 8x slot?
> 
> Here's a diagram to help understand what slots are called based on their physical design and *not* necessarily their speed:
> 
> 
> 
> edit: in the end, its the same thing, we're just looking at it in a different ways. I typical l just refer to the 16x length slots regardless of what speed it can do (1x, 4x, 8x, 16x).


I definitely didn't need a lesson in what slots are.

You were wrong about what the manual says. I corrected you. That's all my post was about. I had no misunderstandings what you meant in the first place or why you were wrong, so please don't patronize me .... brah.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I definitely didn't need a lesson in what slots are.
> 
> You were wrong about what the manual says. I corrected you. That's all my post was about. I had no misunderstandings what you meant in the first place or why you were wrong, so please don't patronize me .... brah.


If you go back to my original post, i clearly said when referring to 16x full length slots. The board an the manual show four full 16x length slots, the two that run at 16x *speed* are pcie 16x length #1 and #3. The manual has that in there. You can interpret this many ways. Like I said , there's many correct ways of identifying slots.

Its confusing and it was for me, so its ok. And don't feel bad, we all get confused and answers may be different and lead to more confusion. Lets move on and just say we all learned something brah










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They tested fine w/ the BE and once I confirm the mb is good, I put them all in. I have everything plumbed in minus the two ram blocks and the pending mb block. Temps are petty good. Cpu at 4875 ~ 55-60c and the gpu(s) at stock sit ~40c.
> 
> As far your setup, you can do that. run two on one rig and the other on the second rig. Once you're done, you can stick all gpu(s) on the main BE rig. I only used the BE (Boost Edition Lightning) to test the mb and cpu but after that, all four went in. Everything booted and amd immediately asked me to trigger crossfire.
> 
> Technically, you can run in any of the four pcie_16x slots since no single core gpu will max out 16x 3.0 speed tbh. Especially if you're not going for any world records. Do you have any links or a bridge?


I was gonna build a bridge out of Acrylic actually vs getting those ugly non see thru bridges. That's partially why I was asking since when I was putting in the first link from the radiator to the GPU I had to push up on the GPU a bit to get the tube to slide into the fitting and heard a pop, not sure what it was but hopefully everything's ok. So just worried about that again when fitting them since now I can no longer slide the tray in any out thanks to my config.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I was gonna build a bridge out of Acrylic actually vs getting those ugly non see thru bridges. That's partially why I was asking since when I was putting in the first link from the radiator to the GPU I had to push up on the GPU a bit to get the tube to slide into the fitting and heard a pop, not sure what it was but hopefully everything's ok. So just worried about that again when fitting them since now I can no longer slide the tray in any out thanks to my config.


You always wanna tie in the bridge first so it settles in places. It becomes very sturdy in place, so I would wait on the acrylic if you can since you may end up redoing it. I'm running nylon tube so its obviously flexible.

Do you have a tap set for g1/4 or you having this done by someone else?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You always wanna tie in the bridge first so it settles in places. It becomes very sturdy in place, so I would wait on the acrylic if you can since you may end up redoing it. I'm running nylon tube so its obviously flexible.
> 
> Do you have a tap set for g1/4 or you having this done by someone else?


Mm not sure what a tap set is, but was gonna use 2 fittings and a very small run of acrylic in between. I'd be doing it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Mm not sure what a tap set is, but was gonna use 2 fittings and a very small run of acrylic in between. I'd be doing it.


ah, ok, you're doing some sli links or also known as "crystal links" (bp had this setup for while).

In that case, there's a bit of wiggle room just make sure the fittings are snug and tight. try to screw in your cards on the slot brackets first to measure the necessary length. If you have spare acrylic, should work


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> How can a safely kill my CPU so I can use my intel tuning program? By safely I mean not harming anything else along the process.


Well I can't say for certain but by the way they handled my RMA claim I doubt they even verify the chip is bad. You could just say that it crashes at stock voltage and needs more voltage at stock clocks and see what they say. Remember though that you can't buy a Tuning Plan on the replacement (or so I thought) so you'll either have to sell it (like I did) and buy another chip with the money or just go without the Plan on the RMA chip.


----------



## szeged

can you buy the plan anytime after you buy a cpu? i still havent gotten one for this 4930k, and if i blow it up trying for 5.2+ i wanna get covered







can i get it covered after i blow it up if i dont tell them its dead already?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I want to say you can but I'm not sure as I've always bought it at the same time as the chip. They just seemed very casual about the whole thing when I claimed the last one (and that was a $1k CPU).


----------



## szeged

i just dont want them raising eyebrows when i buy the plan then two days later cash it in lol.


----------



## LunaP

Hmm I still have my receipt so guess it wouldn't hurt to do it, 35$ isn't much compared against the value of the chip.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i just dont want them raising eyebrows when i buy the plan then two days later cash it in lol.


Well, you have to wait 30 days after buying the plan to RMA anyway. I do know that.


----------



## szeged

well then, buying the plan now cuz i plan on pushing the chip this week when it gets colder lol.


----------



## Mega Man

i think that is what most ppl do


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure where this comes from. Skupples was correct.
> 
> The manual numbers the slots in order from top-to-bottom (all the slots, not ignoring any) and the 16x slots are #1 and #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition manual (download)
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/J8670_Rampage_IV_Black_Edition.pdf


It comes from asus deciding to change the way they count. The vanilla RIVE had that silly black 8x slot, that was named something like 2B.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm I still have my receipt so guess it wouldn't hurt to do it, 35$ isn't much compared against the value of the chip.


Ivy's tuning plan costs less. Think it was 25$


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> *can you buy the plan anytime after you buy a cpu?* i still havent gotten one for this 4930k, and if i blow it up trying for 5.2+ i wanna get covered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can i get it covered after i blow it up if i dont tell them its dead already?


The Terms & Conditions you have to agree to says ..
Quote:


> [...] [...] The Plan provides a one-time replacement: (i) only applicable to the replacement of Eligible Processors and (ii) *only when the Plan is purchased within one (1) year of the purchase of the Eligible Processor.* [...]


.

FWIW They don't ask for any proof of when you bought the cpu when you purchase the tuning plan. I assume if/when you try to make a claim they will need to see proof of purchase or else maybe they can tell just from the S/N when it was purchased.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, it was really smooth. And the chip they sent me was a brand new in the box replacement that I highly doubt was binned as a Tuning Plan replacement (though I sold it BNIB so I don'r know what kind of clocker it really was)...


Intel will ask you if you ever overclock the cpu. Try to answer 'Yes!' and you will see how smooth will go the replacement. I don't know with Tuning Plan replacement I never buy one. I don't have a health insurance think about insure a cpu.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Intel will ask you if you ever overclock the cpu. Try to answer 'Yes!' and you will see how smooth will go the replacement.


The tuning plan is only for if you overclock the processor. That's specifically all the tuning plan covers is overclocking. If you didn't overclock then your cpu is covered under the normal 3yr warranty.

http://click.intel.com/tuningplan/faq
Quote:


> *Does this Plan mean my standard 3 year warranty is no longer valid?*
> No. The Plan does not affect your standard three year warranty. The standard 3 year warranty covers failures that occur while the processor is used within Intel's published specifications. The Plan covers an eligible processor that fails due to overclocking.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Intel will ask you if you ever overclock the cpu. Try to answer 'Yes!' and you will see how smooth will go the replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> The tuning plan is only for if you overclock the processor. That's specifically all the tuning plan covers is overclocking. If you didn't overclock then your cpu is covered under the normal 3yr warranty.
> 
> http://click.intel.com/tuningplan/faq
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Does this Plan mean my standard 3 year warranty is no longer valid?*
> No. The Plan does not affect your standard three year warranty. The standard 3 year warranty covers failures that occur while the processor is used within Intel's published specifications. The Plan covers an eligible processor that fails due to overclocking.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thanks for that was helpful to know
I already replace one 3960, one 3970 and never pay for any tuning plan. The CPU it self have a warranty, I will never overclock Intel's $1000 processor


----------



## unph4zed

Corsair AX1200i is not enough for my rig with 3-way GTX 780's once I put 1.3v through them or try to increase PT at all. I think I'm just going to purchase a 500w slave to drive one of them. Any reason this is a bad idea?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> Corsair AX1200i is not enough for my rig with 3-way GTX 780's once I put 1.3v through them or try to increase PT at all. I think I'm just going to purchase a 500w slave to drive one of them. Any reason this is a bad idea?


I would run the three GK110s* off of the 1200w, & run the motherboard/cpu/everything else off of the 500w, though I would likely go with a platinum 650 or so. Check out ADD2PSU, it's the safest way to bridge two PSU's.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> Corsair AX1200i is not enough for my rig with 3-way GTX 780's once I put 1.3v through them or try to increase PT at all. I think I'm just going to purchase a 500w slave to drive one of them. Any reason this is a bad idea?


For me is a bad idea for space, sell it and buy one stronger with 1500W
I personal use Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 and I have 4 titans (on water).


----------



## moddedMessiah

Please add me to the list of owning this amazing motherboard.
love the builds guys looking great!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> For me is a bad idea for space, sell it and buy one stronger with 1500W
> I personal use Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 and I have 4 titans (on water).


Only problem is there are no 1500 single rail PSU's unless he wants extra cable messes by combining rails, though if that's not an issue then no worries just extra clutter imo. Depending on the GPu and all if it's Titans and they want to push them hard then yeah it'll be either combine or go the G2 + additional PSU. Though from what I"m being told in the Titan thread looks like there may be a new Single rail 1500W coming out soon, so hopefully it'll be released this week @ CES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moddedMessiah*
> 
> Please add me to the list of owning this amazing motherboard.
> love the builds guys looking great!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats! and welcome!! Also is that a TV or a monitor it's huge!


----------



## unph4zed

Very nice rig Messiah!

I'll be single if I spend much more on this thing right now lol. I have lots of room in the bottom of the test benches so for now I'm going to try the 650w slave. Eventually I'll upgrade to a big boy PSU.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> Very nice rig Messiah!
> 
> I'll be single if I spend much more on this thing right now lol. I have lots of room in the bottom of the test benches so for now I'm going to try the 650w slave. Eventually I'll upgrade to a big boy PSU.


The additional 650/800 was my original plan, for the board and the other for the gpu's as I'm in the same boat as you lol, just gonna see what comes out this week then I'll decide, let us know how it holds up though.


----------



## moddedMessiah

Its a monitor for the one who asked its the 21.9 widescreen 29 inch LG LED.
Thanks guys yours look awesome aswell, I decided to go pink as everyone and there grandma has blue, etc and my daughter made me she calls it The Pink Phantom lol


----------



## _REAPER_

I am back in AFG it was fun being home 7 more months to go and I am done with this country. Here are the final pics of my build let me know what you guys think


----------



## wermad

^^^Very clean good sir







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> For me is a bad idea for space, sell it and buy one stronger with 1500W
> I personal use Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 and I have 4 titans (on water).


Very under appreciated psu imho. Its not fully modular but it tackled my four 580 3gbs with ease. Doing very nicely w/ the Lepa 1600w so far


----------



## Akadaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am back in AFG it was fun being home 7 more months to go and I am done with this country. Here are the final pics of my build let me know what you guys think


That looks sick dude!


----------



## SDMODNoob

After doing a few upgrades, namely my GPU and CPU. My ram is refusing to reach 2400mhz with all 64gb detected. If I lower the frequency to 2133mhz it detects everything just fine, but why settle for that if I paid the extra bit for 2400mhz right?







Think you guys can help me troubleshoot this on this board? I am currently using 2 sets of http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231522. Timings are set to the manufacture value and I have digi power options to optimized and 130%. VCSSA at 1.3V. The cpu is a 4960x which I have it oc'd to [email protected] 1.42v. I would take some screenshots of my bios but I can't seem to find my USB







Let me know if you guys need any other info to help me troubleshoot this.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am back in AFG it was fun being home 7 more months to go and I am done with this country. Here are the final pics of my build let me know what you guys think
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


come home safe my friend ! thanks for your service and all you and your comrades do for us ! godspeed !


----------



## unph4zed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> After doing a few upgrades, namely my GPU and CPU. My ram is refusing to reach 2400mhz with all 64gb detected. If I lower the frequency to 2133mhz it detects everything just fine, but why settle for that if I paid the extra bit for 2400mhz right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think you guys can help me troubleshoot this on this board? I am currently using 2 sets of http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231522. Timings are set to the manufacture value and I have digi power options to optimized and 130%. VCSSA at 1.3V. The cpu is a 4960x which I have it oc'd to [email protected] 1.42v. I would take some screenshots of my bios but I can't seem to find my USB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if you guys need any other info to help me troubleshoot this.


You'd have a better chance with a single 64GB kit. Unfortunately even then you might be like me and stuck at 2133mhz. I pushed all the way up to 1.4v VCCSA, 1.7v DIMMS. I could get the 64GB detected eventually but I couldn't pass IBT. We can't all have golden chips.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Ya what bums me is I got the 4960x cuz ivy-e suppose to have better IMC than sandy bridge and the RIVEBE because people raved how it handled overclocking memory, but my 3930k was able to detect all 64gb at 2400mhz on an sabertooth x79 and this can't? Man... I am dissapointed .


----------



## TheSurroundGamr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am back in AFG it was fun being home 7 more months to go and I am done with this country. Here are the final pics of my build let me know what you guys think


Gee, all of that just to run a single screen? I am not impressed.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSurroundGamr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am back in AFG it was fun being home 7 more months to go and I am done with this country. Here are the final pics of my build let me know what you guys think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gee, all of that just to run a single screen? I am not impressed.
Click to expand...

I am not done will be getting more screens when I get home from this deployment in July. I will have some significant time off then a year or so without a deployment so I can enjoy surround gaming


----------



## SDMODNoob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> You'd have a better chance with a single 64GB kit. Unfortunately even then you might be like me and stuck at 2133mhz. I pushed all the way up to 1.4v VCCSA, 1.7v DIMMS. I could get the 64GB detected eventually but I couldn't pass IBT. We can't all have golden chips.






Just messed around with some settings and got it to detect all 64gb @ 2333mhz and it is stable so far on prime95. Give this a shot if you want blck 125, cpu ppl 1.85, vcssa 1.3, vcssa on boot 1.3, extreme settings under digi for dram and 140%. Hopefully prime doesn't fail by time I wake up lol. *crossing fingers*


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> After doing a few upgrades, namely my GPU and CPU. My ram is refusing to reach 2400mhz with all 64gb detected. If I lower the frequency to 2133mhz it detects everything just fine, but why settle for that if I paid the extra bit for 2400mhz right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think you guys can help me troubleshoot this on this board? I am currently using 2 sets of http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231522. Timings are set to the manufacture value and I have digi power options to optimized and 130%. VCSSA at 1.3V. The cpu is a 4960x which I have it oc'd to [email protected] 1.42v. I would take some screenshots of my bios but I can't seem to find my USB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if you guys need any other info to help me troubleshoot this.
> 
> 
> 
> You'd have a better chance with a single 64GB kit. Unfortunately even then you might be like me and stuck at 2133mhz. I pushed all the way up to 1.4v VCCSA, 1.7v DIMMS. I could get the 64GB detected eventually but I couldn't pass IBT. We can't all have golden chips.
Click to expand...

Try your ram at 2666 CL11 or CL12 1.45 VCCSA and 1.75V DIMMS


----------



## cruzdi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> What type of water are you using. Almost looks like calcium( hard water) deposits. Hope you're not using tap water.


I am using distilled water from Target plus 3 drops of copper sulfate and 3 drops of dishwasher liquid per gallon.
I am going to order Feser Base corrosion blocker and IandH silver kill coil from FCPU and use that with the Target distilled water instead of the above. How does that sound?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruzdi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> What type of water are you using. Almost looks like calcium( hard water) deposits. Hope you're not using tap water.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using distilled water from Target plus 3 drops of copper sulfate and 3 drops of dishwasher liquid per gallon.
> I am going to order Feser Base corrosion blocker and IandH silver kill coil from FCPU and use that with the Target distilled water instead of the above. How does that sound?
Click to expand...

copper sulfate +dishwasher liquid !?









Please take your loop apart ,clean all your components (blocks ,RADs) with hot water and use distilled H20 +1~2 drops of PT Nuke better yet since your loop is pretty much disaster right now I would use anty-corrosion coolant first,visit watecooling section if you need help
P.S. use "radiator flash" to clean your RADs followed with distilled,hope you not using aluminium RAds


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

3 drops is a bit much, but a lot of people will recommend using a single drop of dish soap as a surfactant to help bleed a loop. I've added a drop before when air bubbles were stuck and wouldn't budge even with the pump maxed out and tilting / flipping / shaking the case. A drop of soap works.

example:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The sloshing noise is indicative of air still in the system,probably locked in the rad,pulse the pumps on and off to increase the chance of disloging it.
> If you are running straight distilled then adding a single drop of dish soap can also help. [...]


more:

http://www.overclock.net/t/615864/dish-soap/

I guess it's possible that using 3x more soap than I've ever seen recommended could have caused gunking issues with the copper sulfate in the loop, but I don't know. I've known many many people to add a single drop of soap to their loop and never heard of it associated with any problems.

I'd suggest posting a new topic in the water cooling section, if you haven't already, asking what that could be, but in any case once you've seen something like that it's time to disassemble the entire loop, especially opening up the blocks, and inspect for any more signs of that crud elsewhere. Clean everything up with some lemon juice or a dilution of vinegar, a soft-bristled tooth brush will help, and when done rinse with distilled/deionized, flush the rads again like you hopefully did when they were new, and put it back together. If it was only those fittings you find that were affected like that then by all means replace them with something different.

As far as the 'Feser Base corrosion blocker and IandH silver kill coil' idea goes, I personally wouldn't go that route, but if you're going to make a post about this in the watercooling section you should bring that up there too.


----------



## TheSurroundGamr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am not done will be getting more screens when I get home from this deployment in July. I will have some significant time off then a year or so without a deployment so I can enjoy surround gaming


God bless you.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSurroundGamr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am not done will be getting more screens when I get home from this deployment in July. I will have some significant time off then a year or so without a deployment so I can enjoy surround gaming
> 
> 
> 
> God bless you.
Click to expand...

LOL, I cannot wait to be done with AFG. I am still trying to figure out what screens to get I dont want to have 3 of the same size I dont have enough desk space


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> LOL, I cannot wait to be done with AFG. I am still trying to figure out what screens to get I dont want to have 3 of the same size I dont have enough desk space


Wait for GSync monitors.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> LOL, I cannot wait to be done with AFG. I am still trying to figure out what screens to get I dont want to have 3 of the same size I dont have enough desk space
> 
> 
> 
> Wait for GSync monitors.
Click to expand...

I dont think that Gsync is going to work with multi monitors


----------



## WCRF_1710

After a week I got my EK block shipped today!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> After a week I got my EK block shipped today!


I've got mine on the DHL office by tonight







will pick it up tomorrow
but... custom tax is like 40$ itself sigh...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I dont think that Gsync is going to work with multi monitors


If you have limited space, try three monitors in Portrait Surround. If you're not ready to spend a lot now while deciding for something better later on (ie 4k), Asus has a nice and small footprint 22 and 23" ips monitors. They're both 1080 and in Surround should give your rig a good workout. I'm sure 4k is probably on to the top of your list









We'll expect your safe return and possibly a 4th Titan for maximum e-peen powah!


----------



## USFORCES

Just ordered one of these boards, Still can't decide what CPU I'm going with probably go with the 4960 anyhow so far what's the best memory to get for this board?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Just ordered one of these boards, Still can't decide what CPU I'm going with probably go with the 4960 anyhow so far what's the best memory to get for this board?


Congrats! So far most are going w/ the G.Skill series of Tridents and RipJaws I believe. They're affordable unlike Corsair and perform just as good if not better.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Just ordered one of these boards, Still can't decide what CPU I'm going with probably go with the 4960 anyhow so far what's the best memory to get for this board?


This is probably your best bet with good speed and timings for a good price:

G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB


----------



## unph4zed

Going to pick-up a new PSU and use the AX1200i as a slave for my 780s. I have ordered ADD2PSU but it'll take a week or two. If I just use a paper clip to jump the 1200i does it matter when I start it? Before/After the primary PSU has started?

I had them test my 1200i and its performing on spec. Those 780s when overclocked are just power hungry. I have a choice now between a Corsair RM650 (Gold standard) or Corsair HX850 (Silver standard) to run the mobo/cpu. What would you guys do?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> Going to pick-up a new PSU and use the AX1200i as a slave for my 780s. I have ordered ADD2PSU but it'll take a week or two. If I just use a paper clip to jump the 1200i does it matter when I start it? Before/After the primary PSU has started?
> 
> I had them test my 1200i and its performing on spec. Those 780s when overclocked are just power hungry. I have a choice now between a Corsair RM650 (Gold standard) or Corsair HX850 (Silver standard) to run the mobo/cpu. What would you guys do?


Where are you ordering from?

I'd never go below Gold tbh. I think 650 would be enough for just the board / CPU. Are you overseas? If not there's plenty of places that have the 7xx and 8xx versions of gold/plat.


----------



## unph4zed

Memory Express, I'm in Canada. Stock seems low because of all the boxing day sales. I didn't see a Corsair RM750 which is Gold so I'll pick that up. I can just jump the 2nd PSU right after I power the first?


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> Memory Express, I'm in Canada. Stock seems low because of all the boxing day sales. I didn't see a Corsair RM750 which is Gold so I'll pick that up. I can just jump the 2nd PSU right after I power the first?


Memory Express has a pretty poor selection of higher end PSUs; check NCIX if you want more choice. You already spent so much on the primary, I'd get a matching AX860.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> Memory Express, I'm in Canada. Stock seems low because of all the boxing day sales. I didn't see a Corsair RM750 which is Gold so I'll pick that up. I can just jump the 2nd PSU right after I power the first?


I would be careful when doing that, could lead to dead components.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> I have a choice now between a Corsair RM650 (Gold standard) or Corsair HX850 (Silver standard) to run the mobo/cpu. What would you guys do?


Stay away from the Corsair RM
http://www.overclock.net/t/1455892/why-you-should-not-buy-a-corsair-rm-psu


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> This is probably your best bet with good speed and timings for a good price:
> 
> G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB


Thanks,
I've never used G.SKILL, how's the G.Skill vs good Corsair when it comes to overclocking?


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> I had them test my 1200i and its performing on spec.


Just curious who the them is?

It would be nice if the USA had a place one could take a computer part and they could run a little test to see if its performing within spec.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Thanks,
> I've never used G.SKILL, how's the G.Skill vs good Corsair when it comes to overclocking?


A lot of the main name companies use the same ICs for their ram kits. So it'll be the same overclocking if the same chips are used. Still have to win the overclocking lottery with your cpu's IMC and the ram itself.

I'd see no issue getting the advertised speeds out the ram kit linked with a 4960x and Rampage IV Black.

Should even get more imo.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> A lot of the main name companies use the same ICs for their ram kits. So it'll be the same overclocking if the same chips are used. Still have to win the overclocking lottery with your cpu's IMC and the ram itself.
> 
> I'd see no issue getting the advertised speeds out the ram kit linked with a 4960x and Rampage IV Black.
> 
> Should even get more imo.


Having just bought the Ripjaws Z series and having googled for many results of people taking the heatspreaders off of G.Skills, it seems the Trident series is often single sided while the Ripjaws Z are often double sided. They are always about the same price, too.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheSurroundGamr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am not done will be getting more screens when I get home from this deployment in July. I will have some significant time off then a year or so without a deployment so I can enjoy surround gaming
> 
> 
> 
> God bless you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> LOL, I cannot wait to be done with AFG. I am still trying to figure out what screens to get I dont want to have 3 of the same size I dont have enough desk space
Click to expand...

go with the same size ! it looks soo much better imo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Just ordered one of these boards, Still can't decide what CPU I'm going with probably go with the 4960 anyhow so far what's the best memory to get for this board?


that one !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> Going to pick-up a new PSU and use the AX1200i as a slave for my 780s. I have ordered ADD2PSU but it'll take a week or two. If I just use a paper clip to jump the 1200i does it matter when I start it? Before/After the primary PSU has started?
> 
> I had them test my 1200i and its performing on spec. Those 780s when overclocked are just power hungry. I have a choice now between a Corsair RM650 (Gold standard) or Corsair HX850 (Silver standard) to run the mobo/cpu. What would you guys do?


you can i did that for a while as long as they start nearly the same ( i perma jumped it and used the back power switch to turn on off ) it has not made a difference, also please make sure to use 2 separate electrical circuits as the 1200w should pull ~ 15w when maxed out !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> Going to pick-up a new PSU and use the AX1200i as a slave for my 780s. I have ordered ADD2PSU but it'll take a week or two. If I just use a paper clip to jump the 1200i does it matter when I start it? Before/After the primary PSU has started?
> 
> I had them test my 1200i and its performing on spec. Those 780s when overclocked are just power hungry. I have a choice now between a Corsair RM650 (Gold standard) or Corsair HX850 (Silver standard) to run the mobo/cpu. What would you guys do?
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you ordering from?
> 
> I'd never go below Gold tbh. I think 650 would be enough for just the board / CPU. Are you overseas? If not there's plenty of places that have the 7xx and 8xx versions of gold/plat.
Click to expand...

why ? what does gold have that makes it so amazing ( serious question ) one thing i have learned from shilka and other ocn members, as well as my own research 80+ means next to nothing where as ripple and quality of power delivered means everything !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> I have a choice now between a Corsair RM650 (Gold standard) or Corsair HX850 (Silver standard) to run the mobo/cpu. What would you guys do?
> 
> 
> 
> Stay away from the Corsair RM
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1455892/why-you-should-not-buy-a-corsair-rm-psu
Click to expand...

please for the love of god listen to him !!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Having just bought the Ripjaws Z series and having googled for many results of people taking the heatspreaders off of G.Skills, it seems the Trident series is often single sided while the Ripjaws Z are often double sided. They are always about the same price, too.


Trident X is double sided.

With the proper steps you can no doubt take the headsinks off, but you still risk ripping the memory off the sticks.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Having just bought the Ripjaws Z series and having googled for many results of people taking the heatspreaders off of G.Skills, it seems the Trident series is often single sided while the Ripjaws Z are often double sided. They are always about the same price, too.
> 
> 
> 
> Trident X is double sided.
> 
> With the proper steps you can no doubt take the headsinks off, but you still risk ripping the memory off the sticks.
Click to expand...

That's how to take the headsinks off with out any risk


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Trident X is double sided.
> 
> With the proper steps you can no doubt take the headsinks off, but you still risk ripping the memory off the sticks.


Ahh the example freshest in my mind was actually Ripjaws X not Trident...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1415138/build-log-mm-ascension-triple-mcp655s-triple-7950s-asus-mve-watercooled/50_50

Those are single sided.


----------



## saer

The order I placed on the 24th for the RIVBE block still shows as processing


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> The order I placed on the 24th for the RIVBE block still shows as processing


If you have the old block from RIVE adjust more thermal pad and cancel your order


----------



## raw2dogmeat

Got my EK mobo block today and no time to install...12+hr days at work


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raw2dogmeat*
> 
> Got my EK mobo block today and no time to install...12+hr days at work


Got mine earlier today, I'm barely gonna get it installed.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Got mine earlier today, I'm barely gonna get it installed.


are we gonna be seeing any custom laser work on these?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> are we gonna be seeing any custom laser work on these?


Probably not, since they are hardly visible with components installed. But I will be using the io cover, or might make one that resembles it.


----------



## unph4zed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Just curious who the them is?
> 
> It would be nice if the USA had a place one could take a computer part and they could run a little test to see if its performing within spec.


Memory Express in Canada is pretty great to me. I buy just about everything from them. They price match anyone in Canada plus beat it by 25% of the difference. I've had some huge savings. I haven't had to use their service department much until this build but it's been awesome so far.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Stay away from the Corsair RM
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1455892/why-you-should-not-buy-a-corsair-rm-psu


I heeded your advice and bought a AX760i. Thanks for catching it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> you can i did that for a while as long as they start nearly the same ( i perma jumped it and used the back power switch to turn on off ) it has not made a difference, also please make sure to use 2 separate electrical circuits as the 1200w should pull ~ 15w when maxed out !


I will make sure to run them on a different circuit. I'm stuck to 15A circuits in this condo.


----------



## szeged

trying to push my chip to 5.2 / 5.3 atm, bsoding in the last few seconds of stress testing, im probably gonna have to tweak something other than the basics to get this to work lol, voltage is at 1.48 for 5.3 and its just barely not stable and im trying to stay under 1.5

gonna tweak my ram for now until i can figure out what to do to get 5.3 passable/stable.

whats the recommended safe voltage for the tridentx 2400 kit? i wanna try to get 2600-2800 stable.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Up the voltage to 1.55, for benchmarks you should be fine.


----------



## szeged

on intel burn test at 1.48v im getting a max temp of 75c so i guess ill try 1.55 and see if she goes Vesuvius on me


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> trying to push my chip to 5.2 / 5.3 atm, bsoding in the last few seconds of stress testing, im probably gonna have to tweak something other than the basics to get this to work lol, voltage is at 1.48 for 5.3 and its just barely not stable and im trying to stay under 1.5
> 
> gonna tweak my ram for now until i can figure out what to do to get 5.3 passable/stable.
> 
> whats the recommended safe voltage for the tridentx 2400 kit? i wanna try to get 2600-2800 stable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Up the voltage to 1.55, for benchmarks you should be fine.


Trident X Stock volts is 1.65 # 2400mhz


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> on intel burn test at 1.48v im getting a max temp of 75c so i guess ill try 1.55 and see if she goes Vesuvius on me


Just run Cinebench R15 at 1.5v for 5.3GHz just to see if your bench stable.

If you can pass R15 at 5.2 - 5.3GHz, even 5.1Ghz, you have a dream benching chip on your hands.

I ran up to 1.85v into my ram for benching.


----------



## szeged

ill try 1.7 at first for it and see how it goes

also

http://valid.canardpc.com/hnjanj

@ 5.1 still working on getting 5.2 and 5.3 stable.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Some people have all the luck.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I want to see a 5.1GHz 4930k Cinebench R15 run, anyone?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I want to see a 5.1GHz 4930k Cinebench R15 run, anyone?


ask and you shall recieve...right after i get my ram stable at something higher than 2400


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ask and you shall recieve...right after i get my ram stable at something higher than 2400


2400Mhz ram speed is no slouch, I run it and I feel pretty good about it!


----------



## LunaP

For anyone interested PPC's and FCPU has the mobo blocks for the RIVBE in stock, since yesterday.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 2400Mhz ram speed is no slouch, I run it and I feel pretty good about it!


yeah its definitely fast as hell, im just bored with nothing to do and wanna tweak something







since my classy cant do past 1450 core without resets, i gotta up the scores some how


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> trying to push my chip to 5.2 / 5.3 atm, bsoding in the last few seconds of stress testing, im probably gonna have to tweak something other than the basics to get this to work lol, voltage is at 1.48 for 5.3 and its just barely not stable and im trying to stay under 1.5
> 
> gonna tweak my ram for now until i can figure out what to do to get 5.3 passable/stable.
> 
> whats the recommended safe voltage for the tridentx 2400 kit? i wanna try to get 2600-2800 stable.


although i dont have the specs at my fingertips i can find them

according to jedec rated ram ( jedec rated ddr3 ) have to be able to take 1.975v before immediate damage happen iirc ( i know for a fact it is 1.9, but i am always fuzzy about the last 2 digits 1.9xx )


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I dont think that Gsync is going to work with multi monitors
> 
> 
> 
> If you have limited space, try three monitors in Portrait Surround. If you're not ready to spend a lot now while deciding for something better later on (ie 4k), Asus has a nice and small footprint 22 and 23" ips monitors. They're both 1080 and in Surround should give your rig a good workout. I'm sure 4k is probably on to the top of your list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll expect your safe return and possibly a 4th Titan for maximum e-peen powah!
Click to expand...

I wish I could find another Titan I would get it in a heart beat.....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I wish I could find another Titan I would get it in a heart beat.....


Ebay.com

I got both mine there, 1 brand new for under 600 and the other for about 600. ASIC 87% and 79%







People are selling them like hot cakes thinking they're gonna get extreme gains w/ the 780ti's and the 290's


----------



## _REAPER_

When are we going to have the BIOS page on the front updated so we can get some starting points for those of us whom are not as skilled at OCing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ill try 1.7 at first for it and see how it goes
> 
> also
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/hnjanj
> 
> @ 5.1 still working on getting 5.2 and 5.3 stable.


Schweetz







. What voltage you running at 5.0?

I got my little quad to 5.0 w/ 1400Mv to boot but it don't last too long. The BE has been easier then what I experienced w/ the RIVE on a similar cpu. Settling on 4875mhz for the lower voltage and temps (1.375v and ~55-60c load). 4725mhz is stable ~1.350v so this is another speed i could do and it will run my quads just fine


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Schweetz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What voltage you running at 5.0?
> 
> I got my little quad to 5.0 w/ 1400Mv to boot but it don't last too long. The BE has been easier then what I experienced w/ the RIVE on a similar cpu. Settling on 4875mhz for the lower voltage and temps (1.375v and ~55-60c load). 4725mhz is stable ~1.350v so this is another speed i could do and it will run my quads just fine


1.42 is what i use for 5.0, 5.1 requires i believe 1.45? might be 1.46, 5.2 is proving to be a real pain in the ass.


----------



## TheSurroundGamr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> If you have the old block from RIVE adjust more thermal pad and cancel your order


Slinky, your avatar, that setup is killer, man. I must know the source of that screenshot! Have you a link to that build log or image gallery? Thanks.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 1.42 is what i use for 5.0, 5.1 requires i believe 1.45? might be 1.46, 5.2 is proving to be a real pain in the ass.


You got a horse shoe up your jacksey w/ all those lucky cpu finds!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You got a horse shoe up your jacksey w/ all those lucky cpu finds!


now if i could get a gpu core to be the same way


----------



## Akadaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Wait for GSync monitors.


Gsync nothing special I seen videos on it don't know what all the hype is about not only that they will only be on 1080p monitors.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthMuse*
> 
> Gsync nothing special I seen videos on it don't know what all the hype is about not only that they will only be on 1080p monitors.


Asus announced a 1440 native 120hz monitor with G Sync. I personally was waiting for something like this.

http://www.techpowerup.com/196516/asus-announces-rog-swift-pg278q-g-sync-gaming-monitor.html


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Asus announced a 1440 native 120hz monitor with G Sync. I personally was waiting for something like this.
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/196516/asus-announces-rog-swift-pg278q-g-sync-gaming-monitor.html


zomg super excited for that to come out


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Asus announced a 1440 native 120hz monitor with G Sync. I personally was waiting for something like this.
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/196516/asus-announces-rog-swift-pg278q-g-sync-gaming-monitor.html


Is this ips or tn?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is this ips or tn?


Word is that is based on TN, but not 100% sure.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Whatever is on that heat sink pipe,it is much stronger than the heat pipe. I tried heating it up but the pipe gave up before it could come lose. I well, at least the IO shield is back on my board.


----------



## tvelander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Whatever is on that heat sink pipe,it is much stronger than the heat pipe. I tried heating it up but the pipe gave up before it could come lose. I well, at least the IO shield is back on my board.


Can you use the I/O with the waterblock?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvelander*
> 
> Can you use the I/O with the waterblock?


Yes, but you have to remove the heat pipe.


----------



## King4x4

Can I join now?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Can I join now?


Where are you at in the Middle East.... Just noticing the flag in the background


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthMuse*
> 
> Gsync nothing special I seen videos on it don't know what all the hype is about not only that they will only be on 1080p monitors.


G-sync is one of those things that can not really be discerned from a video do to the fixed frame rate recording of cameras.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Word is that is based on TN, but not 100% sure.


It's a PLS panel. @least, *PG278Q* is PLS in other monitors.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> When are we going to have the BIOS page on the front updated so we can get some starting points for those of us whom are not as skilled at OCing.


Only one I have up so far is 0403 once a new one comes out I can post it, unless you're referring to the older one which I'm not showing on ASUS's page. Gonna be working on a list of tools etc, and reskim this thread for utilities etc and post them up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Can I join now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


w00 grats on finally obtaining ! Added you a while back after your order confirmation









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> G-sync is one of those things that can not really be discerned from a video do to the fixed frame rate recording of cameras.
> It's a PLS panel. @least, *PG278Q* is PLS in other monitors.


As long as it comes in gloss, I'll purchase 1 and just have my Koreans on the side, but only if Gsync lives up to hype, if not then 275$ for the same monitor w/o Gsync is well worth it, that + could manually add in Gsync to mine if need be I guess. I just like the idea of having at least one monitor with an OSD lol.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Where are you at in the Middle East.... Just noticing the flag in the background


In saudi arabia and that is not a flag. It's a glyph painting.

Google Arabic Glyph


----------



## skupples

The xstar is 275$?all I know is that 800 is obscene for that resolution specially when you can get 3 Koreans for almost the same price. What the hell happened to it being a hundred seventy five dollar chip. Speech to text

I don't want anything to do with those stupid Addons. Crosshair blablah Nvidia needs to get its head out of the clouds


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSurroundGamr*
> 
> Slinky, your avatar, that setup is killer, man. I must know the source of that screenshot! Have you a link to that build log or image gallery? Thanks.


https://www.google.com/search?q=slinky+supercomputer


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Can I join now?


smexy pr0n


----------



## boldenc

could someone who ordered a RIVBE, just the RIVBE, what was the shipping weight reported by UPS?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boldenc*
> 
> could someone who ordered a RIVBE, just the RIVBE, what was the shipping weight reported by UPS?


Mine was 5lbs. Don't ask why I remember the weight.


----------



## wermad

11lbs reported by Ontrac for mine







. It came in the newegg box w/ some stuffing paper but nothing special (and just typical) packaging from newegg.

Sometimes, the sender will preorder labels w/ an estimated shipping weight so it may not be the exact weight. Helps save time in the handling department







.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boldenc*
> 
> could someone who ordered a RIVBE, just the RIVBE, what was the shipping weight reported by UPS?


was either 8 or 10lbs


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

My RIVBE delivery from FEDEX said 10lbs / 4.5 kg


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> My RIVBE delivery from FEDEX said 10lbs / 4.5 kg


Just checked and it was 10lbs. I got it mixed up, lol!


----------



## wermad

hehe, BE so awesome we discussing shipping weights. Only for the best


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> hehe, BE so awesome we discussing shipping weights. Only for the best


Lol, that's a good thing. Some of the few issues arent really a big deal. Audio pops, BIOS updates, not reading 64gb of memory without tweaks.

Lucky for me none have been an issue. My only problem was removing the heat pipe from the IO shield.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Lol, that's a good thing. Some of the few issues arent really a big deal. Audio pops, BIOS updates, not reading 64gb of memory without tweaks.
> 
> Lucky for me none have been an issue. My only problem was removing the heat pipe from the IO shield.


I've no clue if my board even works yet LOL it's all up to lady luck~


----------



## wermad

I got the pops. Simple fix, turn off my speakers when I'm done and turn them on when i"m resuming sleep. It takes a couple of seconds to trigger the three monitors on the MST hub so I just hit the speaker on button my my little controller. Other then that, its been smooth sailing. Need to get that ek block in soon. CSQ is coming to end soon seeing priority is now being put on the clean block. Damn, right when i decided to accept em crop circles.

Btw, is it possible to do ram-disk w/ 32gb? Only reason I added more ram to my system was the pressure added by the tube on the ram blocks and dimms was a bit too much for comfort. Having eight dims gives the ram blocks a good base to attach to, but what to do now w/ this much ram


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got the pops. Simple fix, turn off my speakers when I'm done and turn them on when i"m resuming sleep. It takes a couple of seconds to trigger the three monitors on the MST hub so I just hit the speaker on button my my little controller. Other then that, its been smooth sailing. Need to get that ek block in soon. CSQ is coming to end soon seeing priority is now being put on the clean block. Damn, right when i decided to accept em crop circles.
> 
> Btw, is it possible to do ram-disk w/ 32gb? Only reason I added more ram to my system was the pressure added by the tube on the ram blocks and dimms was a bit too much for comfort. Having eight dims gives the ram blocks a good base to attach to, but what to do now w/ this much ram


http://www.virtualbox.org/

PC-inception.


----------



## rabidz7

Can I use six DIMMs in quad channel mode?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Can I use six DIMMs in quad channel mode?


Yup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Btw, is it possible to do ram-disk w/ 32gb? Only reason I added more ram to my system was the pressure added by the tube on the ram blocks and dimms was a bit too much for comfort. Having eight dims gives the ram blocks a good base to attach to, but what to do now w/ this much ram


Sure can, but I'd aim for 24 GB or so for ramdisk for it to be useful.


----------



## strong island 1

finally got my block. I'm going to try and install it tonight.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> When are we going to have the BIOS page on the front updated so we can get some starting points for those of us whom are not as skilled at OCing.
> 
> 
> 
> Only one I have up so far is 0403 once a new one comes out I can post it, unless you're referring to the older one which I'm not showing on ASUS's page. Gonna be working on a list of tools etc, and reskim this thread for utilities etc and post them up.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Can I join now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> w00 grats on finally obtaining ! Added you a while back after your order confirmation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> G-sync is one of those things that can not really be discerned from a video do to the fixed frame rate recording of cameras.
> It's a PLS panel. @least, *PG278Q* is PLS in other monitors.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As long as it comes in gloss, I'll purchase 1 and just have my Koreans on the side, but only if Gsync lives up to hype, if not then 275$ for the same monitor w/o Gsync is well worth it, that + could manually add in Gsync to mine if need be I guess. I just like the idea of having at least one monitor with an OSD lol.
Click to expand...

with all this gsync talk, figured i would post this, because i keep hearing i want nvidia because of gsync and not directed at you necessarily

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7641/amd-demonstrates-freesync-free-gsync-alternative-at-ces-2014
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I got the pops. Simple fix, turn off my speakers when I'm done and turn them on when i"m resuming sleep. It takes a couple of seconds to trigger the three monitors on the MST hub so I just hit the speaker on button my my little controller. Other then that, its been smooth sailing. Need to get that ek block in soon. CSQ is coming to end soon seeing priority is now being put on the clean block. Damn, right when i decided to accept em crop circles.
> 
> Btw, is it possible to do ram-disk w/ 32gb? Only reason I added more ram to my system was the pressure added by the tube on the ram blocks and dimms was a bit too much for comfort. Having eight dims gives the ram blocks a good base to attach to, but what to do now w/ this much ram


yes you can ramdisk as much ram as you want ! as long as the program allows it !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> finally got my block. I'm going to try and install it tonight.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


now that is sexay ( i hate their crop circles ! )


----------



## _REAPER_

I wonder if anyone else is going to make a mobo block for this mobo


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I wonder if anyone else is going to make a mobo block for this mobo


I've heard koolance and maybe xspc but nothing official.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> with all this gsync talk, figured i would post this, because i keep hearing i want nvidia because of gsync and not directed at you necessarily
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7641/amd-demonstrates-freesync-free-gsync-alternative-at-ces-2014
> yes you can ramdisk as much ram as you want ! as long as the program allows it !
> now that is sexay ( i hate their crop circles ! )


that freesync thing kinda throws me off. It must be a PITA to find a real screen that supports vblank/has the firmware to force v-blank if they had to run it on laptops.

@ the price they want for 1400p(not even 1440P?) 120hz i'll pass on G-sync. I'm not dropping 2,500$ on monitors when I can get three koreans for under 1,000$. Specially If I could eventually get the g-sync card & stick it in said monitors.


----------



## cruzdi

Dated 12/29, there is an OC panel firmware upgrade guide in this mobo's support page.


----------



## WCRF_1710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I wonder if anyone else is going to make a mobo block for this mobo
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard koolance and maybe xspc but nothing official.
Click to expand...

XSPC is ready: http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-other/rampage-4-black-waterblock-set

That is what I got from Koolance:

"Unfortunately we have no plans to produce a waterblock for that motherboard.

-Dylan

Koolance Technical Support"


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I wonder if anyone else is going to make a mobo block for this mobo
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard koolance and maybe xspc but nothing official.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> XSPC is ready: http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-other/rampage-4-black-waterblock-set
> 
> That is what I got from Koolance:
> 
> "Unfortunately we have no plans to produce a waterblock for that motherboard.
> 
> -Dylan
> 
> Koolance Technical Support"
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info


----------



## tvelander

Ok, i order R4BE, but what memory should i go with.
I will use EK ram monarch and RAM blocks.

What memory is working with them except Corsair RAM and i want CL9 2400 or CL9 2133 that overclock well.

4x4GB or 4x8GB


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvelander*
> 
> Ok, i order R4BE, but what memory should i go with.
> I will use EK ram monarch and RAM blocks.
> 
> What memory is working with them except Corsair RAM and i want CL9 2400 or CL9 2133 that overclock well.
> 
> 4x4GB or 4x8GB


G.Skill Trident X 2400 CL9 seem to be popular. I'm using a kit myself.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> G.Skill Trident X 2400 CL9 seem to be popular. I'm using a kit myself.


Unfortunately, that kit has been out of stock for over a month. Since Black Friday, when it was on sale for $189.99. I've been watching and waiting to pick a set up myself. Gskill Trident X 4x4gb 2400 cl10 set is available for $185.99 in 2 different versions and 2666 cl11 kit for $299.99. Top 2 kits in this configuration right now.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Unfortunately, that kit has been out of stock for over a month. Since Black Friday, when it was on sale for $189.99. I've been watching and waiting to pick a set up myself. Gskill Trident X 4x4gb 2400 cl10 set is available for $185.99 in 2 different versions and 2666 cl11 kit for $299.99. Top 2 kits in this configuration right now.


Amazon has the CL10 kit on stock.
http://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-PC3-19200-2400MHz-Trident-10-12-12-31/dp/B0080FFZ8E


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> XSPC is ready: http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-other/rampage-4-black-waterblock-set
> [...]


When did the XSPC RIVBE blocks get released?
Is that brand new or did I just miss it? That looks soooooooooo much better than the EK blocks to me.

Now I wonder how long it's going to take for that to show up somewhere I can actually buy it? How much will it be?

Most of all, is it worth it to me to void my RIVBE warranty because i guess I'm assuming I'd have to cut the heatpipe to keep the I/O cover (not even going to consider running without it).

Hmmm?


----------



## kpoeticg

You can remove the heatpipe without cutting it. I think @IT Diva was the first to figure that out


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You can remove the heatpipe without cutting it. I think @IT Diva
> was the first to figure that out


Yeah but iirc she heated it with a torch or some such so it expanded so the pipe could be pulled out. Sounds like it wouldn't just go back in place and be unnoticeable as far as the warranty goes (especially after I do anything to it with a torch it's probably going to look terrible. lol), and if that's the case I'm not sure what advantage doing all that has over just cutting the thing off instead.


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't remember how. I didn't order my block yet so haven't thought much about it beyond knowing that it can be done. I'm sure if you check out her Stretch Limo build log it'll show more detail


----------



## WCRF_1710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> When did the XSPC RIVBE blocks get released?
> Is that brand new or did I just miss it? That looks soooooooooo much better than the EK blocks to me.
> 
> Now I wonder how long it's going to take for that to show up somewhere I can actually buy it? How much will it be?
> 
> Most of all, is it worth it to me to void my RIVBE warranty because i guess I'm assuming I'd have to cut the heatpipe to keep the I/O cover (not even going to consider running without it).
> 
> Hmmm?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


Thanks for that! Rep!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I don't remember how. I didn't order my block yet so haven't thought much about it beyond knowing that it can be done. I'm sure if you check out her Stretch Limo build log it'll show more detail


Here is is. She heated it for 10 minutes with a torch to pull it out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I was able to successfully remove the I/O heatsink from the heatpipe from the mosfet block!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea I mentioned a while back with using quick heat and expanding the aluminum from the pipe and softening the thermal bonding agent worked a treat.
> 
> About 10 minutes heating the aluminum sink with a propane torch, and the thermal glue started to melt and became visible, and a couple more minutes and the pipe would rotate freely in the sink and slide out with a little twisting motion as I pulled.
> 
> The white powdery stuff is the thermal glue, it'll dust off once it's all cooled.
> 
> The heat left no visible discolorations or blemishes on the heatsink, so it's ready to reinstall when cool.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


I could be wrong, but it looks like it's going to void the warranty to me, especially after I take a torch to it I have my doubts I'll be able to say it '_left no visible discolorations or blemishes on the heatsink_'. I know my luck / history, and I'm all but certain I'd destroy the thing beyond recognition.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well you could always place a wanted ad on the marketplace for the stock heatpipe/heatsinks if warranty time ever comes. I'm sure there'll be a few people that don't cut or remove the pipe when they install the waterblocks. I'm probly gonna use her method myself and take my chances =P

Using a heatgun or reflow station instead of a torch might help with the burn marks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well you could always place a wanted ad on the marketplace for the stock heatpipe/heatsinks if warranty time ever comes. I'm sure there'll be a few people that don't cut or remove the pipe when they install the waterblocks. I'm probly gonna use her method myself and take my chances =P
> 
> Using a heatgun or reflow station instead of a torch might help with the burn marks


Hmmm, the marketplace is a good idea. Rep!

I might try to see if I can get one beforehand. That would make me feel a whole lot better about cutting or torching the heatpipe out.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah but iirc she heated it with a torch or some such so it expanded so the pipe could be pulled out. Sounds like it wouldn't just go back in place and be unnoticeable as far as the warranty goes (especially after I do anything to it with a torch it's probably going to look terrible. lol), and if that's the case I'm not sure what advantage doing all that has over just cutting the thing off instead.


I tried torching it, but the pipe still didn't make it. It's very weak and got damaged to the point where it broke off before that welding paste.


----------



## tvelander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> G.Skill Trident X 2400 CL9 seem to be popular. I'm using a kit myself.


Work with EK waterblock module?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvelander*
> 
> Work with EK waterblock module?


I don't see why not? After you remove the stock heatsink, the modules should fit right into the EK monarch blocks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I tried torching it, but the pipe still didn't make it. It's very weak and got damaged to the point where it broke off before that welding paste.


Hmmm, the very top of the board will be hidden behind my top rad, so I'm wondering if you think that the heatpipe might be able to be gently bent a little without breaking anything so that it might just sit up above the board out of view in the space behind the rad?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, the very top of the board will be hidden behind my top rad, so I'm wondering if you think that the heatpipe might be able to be gently bent a little without breaking anything so that it might just sit up above the board out of view in the space behind the rad?


Yes, you can do that too. The pipe is actually quite flexible.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> XSPC is ready: http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-other/rampage-4-black-waterblock-set
> 
> That is what I got from Koolance:
> 
> "Unfortunately we have no plans to produce a waterblock for that motherboard.
> 
> -Dylan
> 
> Koolance Technical Support"


WUT no LED's?!?! Blasphemy!!


----------



## strong island 1

so do I have to cut out that heatpipe to install the waterblock and keep the i/o cover.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> so do I have to cut out that heatpipe to install the waterblock and keep the i/o cover.


that or blow torch it out. It diva was successful in using the torch method.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> so do I have to cut out that heatpipe to install the waterblock and keep the i/o cover.
> 
> 
> 
> that or blow torch it out. It diva was successful in using the torch method.
Click to expand...

That sucks. i really like the i/o cover. I don't really have a torch. I don't really care about the warranty so hopefully I can rip it off. I have never had a single problem with an asus board. I have had a lot of them and never rma'd one. my original rive survived a lot of watercooling accidents.

I wonder why they would do that knowing watercooling would be a big thing with owners. The i/o cover on the evga dark was much better. it was just a cover that you install yourself. The 2 screw holes lined up with the motherboard standoff's so it screwed in as you install the board.


----------



## WCRF_1710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> That sucks. i really like the i/o cover. I don't really have a torch. I don't really care about the warranty so hopefully I can rip it off. I have never had a single problem with an asus board. I have had a lot of them and never rma'd one. my original rive survived a lot of watercooling accidents.
> 
> I wonder why they would do that knowing watercooling would be a big thing with owners. The i/o cover on the evga dark was much better. it was just a cover that you install yourself. The 2 screw holes lined up with the motherboard standoff's so it screwed in as you install the board.


Asus should sell extra I/O covers!! Or build it apart from VRM.


----------



## Chucklez

Just ordered one to pair with my i7 4930K


----------



## saer

As much as I want to keep the rear io cover for its sheer sexiness, I personally wouldn't try to remove the heatpipe. In any event you need to RMA the mobo, all heatsinks must be intact in their original state


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And the race is on . . . .
> 
> Strangely enough, I got an email from FCPU yesterday, that my R4BE block has shipped, although they still only show as "orderable".
> 
> I suppose that they fill the orders taken while a product is "orderable" with the first arriving product, and don't list it as "in stock" until all the pre-orders are filled.
> 
> For some reason, even though I knew when I ordered it, that it would be a while before it ever shipped, I paid the extra $20 for Express Mail shipping. ( I must be desperate or something)
> 
> I also got a "shipped" email a few days ago from EK, even though they were supposedly on holiday, that my block had shipped via DHL.
> 
> So it looks like I'll end up with 2 of them in a few days.
> 
> Not sure whether to sell the second one, or to just go buy another R4BE for it . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be interesting to see which one gets here first!
> 
> Either way, I'll be mighty excited to get it installed. It's the last piece of the loops puzzle. . . . .
> 
> Well unless I can't control my urges and go for the A6 cooling bits with the water block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


As it turns out, the race was a dead heat.

Both blocks got here yesterday . . . .

Had to pick up one from the post office, and the other from DHL, after I paid the customs and excise tax.

Best of all, is that now I have the nickel mounting bracket for the Supremacy CPU block so it matches everything else, and I guess I'll have to get another R4BE for the second block since it doesn't make a lot of sense to have it just sitting in the box, all alone and afraid.

Darlene


----------



## pprest123

Getting 13.50pts in Cinebench R11.5 with a 4930K @ 4.5GHz on this board. Is this core round what I should be expecting (I can't find anything to compare to)?

I'm on a cheap 1333MHz kit at the moment whilst I wait for my Dominator Platinum Quad kit to arrive.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pprest123*
> 
> Getting 13.50pts in Cinebench R11.5 with a 4930K @ 4.5GHz on this board. Is this core round what I should be expecting (I can't find anything to compare to)?


Sounds about right. I have a 4960X, so no numbers that are directly comparable, but here's one of mine @ 4.6 GHz with 2666 C10 mems:



Used a GTX780 when running those numbers, too.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As it turns out, the race was a dead heat.
> 
> Both blocks got here yesterday . . . .
> 
> Had to pick up one from the post office, and the other from DHL, after I paid the customs and excise tax.
> 
> Best of all, is that now I have the nickel mounting bracket for the Supremacy CPU block so it matches everything else, and I guess *I'll have to get another R4BE for the second block since it doesn't make a lot of sense to have it just sitting in the box, all alone and afraid.*
> 
> Darlene










. Buying another $500 mb since you have a spare wb for it, epic Darlene


----------



## pprest123

Is there any overclocking guides for this motherboard for a newby like myself?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chucklez*
> 
> Just ordered one to pair with my i7 4930K


welcome !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And the race is on . . . .
> 
> Strangely enough, I got an email from FCPU yesterday, that my R4BE block has shipped, although they still only show as "orderable".
> 
> I suppose that they fill the orders taken while a product is "orderable" with the first arriving product, and don't list it as "in stock" until all the pre-orders are filled.
> 
> For some reason, even though I knew when I ordered it, that it would be a while before it ever shipped, I paid the extra $20 for Express Mail shipping. ( I must be desperate or something)
> 
> I also got a "shipped" email a few days ago from EK, even though they were supposedly on holiday, that my block had shipped via DHL.
> 
> So it looks like I'll end up with 2 of them in a few days.
> 
> Not sure whether to sell the second one, or to just go buy another R4BE for it . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be interesting to see which one gets here first!
> 
> Either way, I'll be mighty excited to get it installed. It's the last piece of the loops puzzle. . . . .
> 
> Well unless I can't control my urges and go for the A6 cooling bits with the water block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As it turns out, the race was a dead heat.
> 
> Both blocks got here yesterday . . . .
> 
> Had to pick up one from the post office, and the other from DHL, after I paid the customs and excise tax.
> 
> Best of all, is that now I have the nickel mounting bracket for the Supremacy CPU block so it matches everything else, and I guess I'll have to get another R4BE for the second block since it doesn't make a lot of sense to have it just sitting in the box, all alone and afraid.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

orrrrrrrrrr you could sell it to meh !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pprest123*
> 
> Is there any overclocking guides for this motherboard for a newby like myself?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1186959/rampage-iv-extreme-uefi-guide-for-overclocking


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As it turns out, the race was a dead heat.
> 
> Both blocks got here yesterday . . . .
> 
> Had to pick up one from the post office, and the other from DHL, after I paid the customs and excise tax.
> 
> Best of all, is that now I have the nickel mounting bracket for the Supremacy CPU block so it matches everything else, and I guess *I'll have to get another R4BE for the second block since it doesn't make a lot of sense to have it just sitting in the box, all alone and afraid.*
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Buying another $500 mb since you have a spare wb for it, epic Darlene
Click to expand...

Well, with the Stretch build getting pretty near completion . . . .

I'm pondering what I may do for the next project, but I kinda have wayyyy too many computers already, . . . . and . . ..

I really want to build a Light Sport Aircraft (LSA), but our general manager gets real nervous every time I start talking about ultralights and building an airplane. . . . of course he kite boards, so it's not exactly like he's a wuss.

I know he'd be a lot less stressed if I build a phase change rig instead, (which I don't have yet) . . . . and the 4930 does seem to scale pretty well with phase change temps, and I'd need a nice mobo if I do go down that rabbit hole . . . . .

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

wow finally microcenter has RIVBE in stock


----------



## skupples

Well, got the e-bay guy to come off of the receipt for the 3930k, so now i'm 100% covered w/ the tuning plan... just in case.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pprest123*
> 
> Is there any overclocking guides for this motherboard for a newby like myself?


What CPU do you have and what are you OC goals?


----------



## Ftimster

4960x at 4.8 1.350vcore cinibench 11.5 14.57


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> 4960x at 4.8 1.350vcore cinibench 11.5 14.57


Your going to have to post up screen shots of those bios settings....


----------



## szeged

and a validation link to, thats an impressive clock for those volts


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> 4960x at 4.8 1.350vcore cinibench 11.5 14.57


How can that be, I have a 4930k to 4.6 GHz and manage 14.01 Cinebench 11.5.
The distance is very small is this normal ? 0,56 Points more for 200MHz ?


----------



## Ftimster

Will do heading home now and will post later tonight or first thing in the mourning  funny because all my bios settings are all most all auto except vcore.....


----------



## szeged

since were on topic of cinebench 11.5



4.9 run there, just got 5.1 stable so ill rerun it again and hopefully 5.2 stable some time this year


----------



## Redshift 91

anybody with experience with SB-e, I've gotten 5GHz running at 1.408v, about how good is that? I'm happy with it, and I think I can turn the voltage down a bit, just looking to see how it stacks up to other people's experience. Temps just touch 60c at full bore. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Ftimster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> How can that be, I have a 4930k to 4.6 GHz and manage 14.01 Cinebench 11.5.
> The distance is very small is this normal ? 0,56 Points more for 200MHz ?


that's weird because if I go to 4.9 and run it I can't break 15.00 its like 14.70 somthing


----------



## yttocstfarc

Tell me that this beast won't look good in a total "Black" Black Edition Build
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121838


Ugh I think the build Is changing agian...lol
I think the Black Edition deserves 2 780ti's in SLI......wouldn't you agree?


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Tell me that this beast won't look good in a total "Black" Black Edition Build
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121838
> 
> 
> Ugh I think the build Is changing agian...lol
> I think the Black Edition deserves 2 780ti's in SLI......wouldn't you agree?


I've got 2 watercooled titans, with plan to pick the third up when Maxwell lunches and I recover a bit from the rest of the build


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Tell me that this beast won't look good in a total "Black" Black Edition Build
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121838
> 
> 
> Ugh I think the build Is changing agian...lol
> I think the Black Edition deserves 2 780ti's in SLI......wouldn't you agree?


i dont it needs four 290xs !


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> wow finally microcenter has RIVBE in stock


you got a link for it I can't find it on their website?

Nevermind just found it! $559.99 really!

Im gonna get my processor from there and was gonna get that too but Ill spend the money saved on the processor on the motherboard...lol


----------



## Mega Man

no you wont, they price match usually without question i just dont tell them i am getting a cpu too and they give me the discount at the reg


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no you wont, they price match usually without question i just dont tell them i am getting a cpu too and they give me the discount at the reg


Oh ok I guess ill have to make a trip up there and see!


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont it needs four 290xs !


Haha i'll be lucky to afford x2 sli of these. Guess I gotta sell some stuff. Wish I could find a buyer for my older rig......That would help out alot.


----------



## gdubc

When I put them in my cart the b.e. showed up as 509.99 so who knows what the price will be for sure at the store. So conflicted! I want one so bad but have $1500 in h2o goodies sitting on a table waiting on $1200 of goodies sitting in my FrozenCPU cart in order to put 3 builds under water. Now the new ces swiftech revelations and microcenter has the b.e.? No way the ol gal is gonna let me get all I want!


----------



## Mega Man

shhh nust dont tell her


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Just placed my order tonight... Confirmation to follow soon.


----------



## USFORCES

Mine will be here soon


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> shhh nust dont tell her


Hahaha, I like your thinking! Of the $1500 in parts on my card table she was only aware of $550. I would really need to sharpen my ninja skills to pull off the b.e./ivy-e/caselabs build I have in mind....


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Hahaha, I like your thinking! Of the $1500 in parts on my card table she was only aware of $550. I would really need to sharpen my ninja skills to pull off the b.e./ivy-e/caselabs build I have in mind....


As long as I keep the bills paid and keep the family entertained on weekends, my wife could care less what I do with my paychecks... And that's the way I like it. Otherwise she'd have a heart attack if she knew how much I've spent on my two builds.


----------



## gdubc

Haha, so she could care less maybe because she also doesn't know? Lol! I am seriously grateful for the amount of $$$$$ she has been okay with me dropping at the local microcenter tho.


----------



## Raghar

28.1. How I would survive these 3 weeks?

Of course, I should pull out preorder more aggressively, I wonder if they received it at all (because major shops took it before them). If I'd moved preorder aggressively, I'd get it before xmass. On the other hand they have 5 years warranty, which is actually reason I'm waiting.


----------



## King4x4

My Watercooling kit from EKs shop is shipping today hopefully.

in other news.... Ghetto mods FTW


----------



## tvelander

Ok, i want to ask.

Maybe abit off topic.

BUT what is the best way to flush system?

I will use Mayhems Oilblack, and i wonder what is the best way to flush all the parts.

I mean do i buy destil water and let it go with that for 2-3 hours and then i just empty the system?


----------



## kpoeticg

I flush all my components through a GE filter with Distilled


----------



## WCRF_1710

Can I join the club now or need something else???


----------



## pprest123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What CPU do you have and what are you OC goals?


4930K and I'd be happy with anything between 4.4-4.6. It's just I've got no idea really where to start. Completely new to the X79 platform and ASUS boards alone, so the UEFI BIOS is quite overwhelming for me (ALOT OF OPTIONS).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvelander*
> 
> Ok, i want to ask.
> 
> Maybe abit off topic.
> 
> BUT what is the best way to flush system?
> 
> I will use Mayhems Oilblack, and i wonder what is the best way to flush all the parts.
> 
> I mean do i buy destil water and let it go with that for 2-3 hours and then i just empty the system?


What I do, or used to do, was heat distilled water in the microwave until it's hot - not boiling - and fill my rad ~1/3 full, cap it off, and shake shake shake (more like keep turning it back and forth and listen to the water rush from one end to the other each time) , then dump it in a white bucket / closed sink so I could inspect for debris. Then I'd repeat as many times as necessary until the water coming out was clear of anything I could see. Sometimes it's taken me ~5 or 6 times filling, shaking, and draining before I get no more debris that I can see, and then I'll do it again one last time just for good measure. That method is relatively cheap to do (a couple gallons of distilled is all), and works very well. I'm often surprised by how much junk comes out.

Many people do the same/similar as I described above but with tap water and just rinse with distilled/deionized when they are done. As I understand it, that's probably perfectly acceptable, and I haven't heard of anyone having any issues doing that, but distilled has always been so cheap where I live (I'm aware that in some parts of the world it isn't) that it just didn't make sense to me to put tap water in my rads just to save me the $0.75 a gallon I can get distilled for.

Anywho, the above method served me well quite a few times, but now what I do now is the same as above first, fill, shake, and dump, but just once, and then I have made a small filtration system that I use and I let it run for a few hours. I got the idea from skupples, who apparently got it from 



. It's probably a bit overkill but it gives me peace of mind that I shouldn't be clogging any of my blocks or ruining my pump with any radiator crud.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I bought everything for it on amazon or ebay:





[/quote]


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> How can that be, I have a 4930k to 4.6 GHz and manage 14.01 Cinebench 11.5.
> The distance is very small is this normal ? 0,56 Points more for 200MHz ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> that's weird because if I go to 4.9 and run it I can't break 15.00 its like 14.70 somthing


Scores look fine to me for the clocks. Usually a 30-50pt difference between 100mhz in clock speed. You've also go to take into account overall system and bench settings. Think i was somewhere around [email protected] with everything stock/untweaked. (4960x will score slightly higher than 4930k on CB)


----------



## kpoeticg

I got the idea from the west coast mods/lazyman vid too


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pprest123*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What CPU do you have and what are you OC goals?
> 
> 
> 
> 4930K and I'd be happy with anything between 4.4-4.6. It's just I've got no idea really where to start. Completely new to the X79 platform and ASUS boards alone, so the UEFI BIOS is quite overwhelming for me (ALOT OF OPTIONS).
Click to expand...

PM SENT


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvelander*
> 
> Ok, i want to ask.
> 
> Maybe a bit off topic.
> 
> BUT what is the best way to flush system?
> 
> I will use Mayhems Oilblack, and i wonder what is the best way to flush all the parts.
> 
> I mean do I buy distilled water and let it go with that for 2-3 hours and then I just empty the system?


I have a reverse osmosis system for our drinking water which is mineral free like distilled water. Anyhow I flush it every 4-6 months then fill it up with fresh RO water then around every 18months or if I'm upgrading I disassemble all the blocks and clean every thing tubing, reservoir ect..


----------



## Dayjavu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> PM SENT


Reaper could you share that PM with me. I have same knowledge about OC'ing as pptest123, same CPU and I am shooting for 4.4 - 4.6 as well. Any help would greatly be appreciated.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dayjavu*
> 
> Reaper could you share that PM with me. I have same knowledge about OC'ing as pptest123, same CPU and I am shooting for 4.4 - 4.6 as well. Any help would greatly be appreciated.


The best advice you can get is to read your manual, and to carefully try yourself. When you do something after people told you how to do it exactly, you are depriving yourself of some most enjoyable experience. For example: Fiddling, munching, fondling, just don't stick your face to something which has 30 A, and remove all hair that might fall into the mainboard.

Generally, the best idea is to ask after week or two of careful efforts. Or came like a KING and show your results when you'd manage it yourself.


----------



## USFORCES

I'm going to order my CPU and memory today anyhow out of these what would you get?


----------



## Dayjavu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> The best advice you can get is to read your manual, and to carefully try yourself. When you do something after people told you how to do it exactly, you are depriving yourself of some most enjoyable experience. For example: Fiddling, munching, fondling, just don't stick your face to something which has 30 A, and remove all hair that might fall into the mainboard.
> 
> Generally, the best idea is to ask after week or two of careful efforts. Or came like a KING and show your results when you'd manage it yourself.


I understand. I have been playing with settings for a couple of weeks now and it seems to me that I have managed to make everything slower. I have so many noob questions I feel they do not deserve to waste everyones time.

It seems like eveyone so far is really helpful but I have always felt I could be the one thrown out for being that dumb. Some of the post are so confusing to me I think it would be easier to learn a new lanuage. I'm sure I could learn but it may take some time.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dayjavu*
> 
> I understand. I have been playing with settings for a couple of weeks now and it seems to me that I have managed to make everything slower. I have so many noob questions I feel they do not deserve to waste everyones time.
> 
> It seems like eveyone so far is really helpful but I have always felt I could be the one thrown out for being that dumb. Some of the post are so confusing to me I think it would be easier to learn a new lanuage. I'm sure I could learn but it may take some time.


Ask away, dude, we all gotta start somewhere.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I'm going to order my CPU and memory today anyhow out of these what would you get?


If you don't need more than 16 GB, then I'd go for the 2800 C12 sticks, for sure. Top-bin Hynix there, sir.

Otherwise, 2400 C10 is best, and probably all the same ICs, anyway, so pick which kit fits your build and budget the most.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dayjavu*
> 
> I understand. I have been playing with settings for a couple of weeks now and it seems to me that I have managed to make everything slower. I have so many noob questions I feel they do not deserve to waste everyones time.
> 
> It seems like eveyone so far is really helpful but I have always felt I could be the one thrown out for being that dumb. Some of the post are so confusing to me I think it would be easier to learn a new lanuage. I'm sure I could learn but it may take some time.


Making everything slower.... after my latest round of trying to get 4.9-5ghz stable I've had to reinstall my os for the second time. I tried booting 2nd bios and reloading factory defaults to no vail. If your boot time and loading times have slowed drastically, I suggest reinstalling your os. Lesson learned for me... #1 ssd is for reg. 24/7 use and #2 ssd is for for benching and new oc's.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If you don't need more than 16 GB, then I'd go for the 2800 C12 sticks, for sure. Top-bin Hynix there, sir.
> 
> Otherwise, 2400 C10 is best, and probably all the same ICs, anyway, so pick which kit fits your build and budget the most.


Thanks for the reply, Rep +









And yeah I really don't need more than 16GB for what I do and if I do I could always add four more later on, anyone else agree with Cadaveca Corsair 2800 C12 is the way to go with the 4960X & Asus Black mb?


----------



## Dayjavu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Making everything slower.... after my latest round of trying to get 4.9-5ghz stable I've had to reinstall my os for the second time. I tried booting 2nd bios and reloading factory defaults to no vail. If your boot time and loading times have slowed drastically, I suggest reinstalling your os. Lesson learned for me... #1 ssd is for reg. 24/7 use and #2 ssd is for for benching and new oc's.


I should clarify. by making things slower I meant booting. I did reinstall the os (8.1) and I am using a raidr express harddrive. I have a 4930K and 32gb ripjaws but it take 30 to 45 seconds to get to the sign in for windows and was worse when I procedded to OC the memory to 2400. So I set everything to default and that is where I'm at.


----------



## Seallone

Ive just got my Rive and 4930k and corsair doms, 2133. and every box is ripped.( some one not happy in packing department. I know its a box's only. But dam. Will set this rig up soon.

Will add pics soon, and join the club. when i have time.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, Rep +
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yeah I really don't need more than 16GB for what I do and if I do I could always add four more later on, anyone else agree with Cadaveca Corsair 2800 C12 is the way to go with the 4960X & Asus Black mb?


sounds good, the trident X variant is 599, with likely the exact same IC


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> sounds good, the trident X variant is 599, with likely the exact same IC


Yep, for sure. But the black/silver just matches this board so well...

LuLz.


----------



## navynuke499

Got mine. $475 at newegg with discount today.


----------



## USFORCES

Is the Trident X 2800, 11 same or better? Do they use the same memory manufacturer, heck I could have red striped then done in black chrome with the money I save







I have a friend that does it, lol
I want the best that's why I'm asking what would you buy?

This Memory?


----------



## USFORCES

I guess I'll look at some reviews


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I guess I'll look at some reviews


Same IC, yes, both will be top-bin Hynix, at that price. Just need to wathc out for single-sided version, but I think those are 12-14-14, not 11-14-14.


----------



## USFORCES

Thanks, How do you know which are single sided or not?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Thanks, How do you know which are single sided or not?


Not sure, exactly, but when I was doing reviews of these kits, the single-sided ones were cheaper, and by a lot. The single-sided modules don't have the same performance as the double-sided ones on Intel clocl-for-clock, although on AMD it doesn't seem to really matter. Anyway, since prices have increased, I haven't been paying too much attention to DDR3, as there hasn't really been anything new from the actual IC makers (who are busy working on DDR4, of course).

There's an article on HWBOT about the IC differences here:

http://hwbot.org/newsflash/2125_the_truth_about_hynix_mfr_based_memory_kits___overclockers.coms_g.skill_tridentx_8gb_ddr3_2933_memory_kit_review

That graph they used is from one of my reviews.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dayjavu*
> 
> I understand. I have been playing with settings for a couple of weeks now and it seems to me that I have managed to make everything slower. I have so many noob questions I feel they do not deserve to waste everyones time.
> 
> It seems like eveyone so far is really helpful but I have always felt I could be the one thrown out for being that dumb. Some of the post are so confusing to me I think it would be easier to learn a new lanuage. I'm sure I could learn but it may take some time.
> 
> 
> 
> Ask away, dude, we all gotta start somewhere.
Click to expand...

this 100% the only dumb q is the q unasked !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dayjavu*
> 
> I understand. I have been playing with settings for a couple of weeks now and it seems to me that I have managed to make everything slower. I have so many noob questions I feel they do not deserve to waste everyones time.
> 
> It seems like eveyone so far is really helpful but I have always felt I could be the one thrown out for being that dumb. Some of the post are so confusing to me I think it would be easier to learn a new lanuage. I'm sure I could learn but it may take some time.
> 
> 
> 
> Making everything slower.... after my latest round of trying to get 4.9-5ghz stable I've had to reinstall my os for the second time. I tried booting 2nd bios and reloading factory defaults to no vail. If your boot time and loading times have slowed drastically, I suggest reinstalling your os. Lesson learned for me... #1 ssd is for reg. 24/7 use and #2 ssd is for for benching and new oc's.
Click to expand...

haha i wont tell you how many times i have had to
are you ocing using blk ??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dayjavu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Making everything slower.... after my latest round of trying to get 4.9-5ghz stable I've had to reinstall my os for the second time. I tried booting 2nd bios and reloading factory defaults to no vail. If your boot time and loading times have slowed drastically, I suggest reinstalling your os. Lesson learned for me... #1 ssd is for reg. 24/7 use and #2 ssd is for for benching and new oc's.
> 
> 
> 
> I should clarify. by making things slower I meant booting. I did reinstall the os (8.1) and I am using a raidr express harddrive. I have a 4930K and 32gb ripjaws but it take 30 to 45 seconds to get to the sign in for windows and was worse when I procedded to OC the memory to 2400. So I set everything to default and that is where I'm at.
Click to expand...

windows is kinda fun now with uefi, you need to install from a uefi device ( i would recommend downloading a usb copy ) i can get you a link if you want it is the best way i know how to do this and you only need a 4gb usb

some more things that help me is this

http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds/0_100
http://www.overclock.net/t/1240779/seans-windows-8-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds/0_100
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seallone*
> 
> Ive just got my Rive and 4930k and corsair doms, 2133. and every box is ripped.( some one not happy in packing department. I know its a box's only. But dam. Will set this rig up soon.
> 
> Will add pics soon, and join the club. when i have time.


welcome ! and i understand you pay 500 for something ( or a couple grand for all of it, ) you want it in good condition


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I flush all my components through a GE filter with Distilled


Yar I need to pick one of these up tomorrow from home depot, my build should be done tomorrow, ran into a hiccup today so another 50$ for next day shipping went off to FCPU








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> Can I join the club now or need something else???
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats and welcome!!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I got the idea from the west coast mods/lazyman vid too
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Meant to ask can I hook this up to my rig and use it for the leak testing part as well? Since I don't think I did a good enough job flushing everything out ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I have a reverse osmosis system for our drinking water which is mineral free like distilled water. Anyhow I flush it every 4-6 months then fill it up with fresh RO water then around every 18months or if I'm upgrading I disassemble all the blocks and clean every thing tubing, reservoir ect..


I can only see WC improving w/ more gadgets haha

pee into your loop let it filter out and voila distilled water?









Also build log finally updates, FINALLY starting the next phase for my Retro theme, phase 1 of 3. Waiting on my SLI links to arrive tomorrow to hook up the GPU's then flush out the system / leak test, that + my other figures and some special lighting / boards etc.


----------



## saer

EK mobo blocks came in today


----------



## SMiThaYe

You can add me to the list of owners too LunaP









Got mine right at the end of December, I've been waiting a week for my mobo blocks from EK cos they stuck as "Processing". Not sure what the delay is because the website said they have 'a few pieces left' and payment via Paypal was took straight off. Will wait until Tuesday and send them an email.

Anyone got ideas that doesn't involve hacking the Vregs cooler to keep the covering for the I/O ports?

For now my board is safely tucked away ...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SMiThaYe*
> 
> You can add me to the list of owners too LunaP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got mine right at the end of December, I've been waiting a week for my mobo blocks from EK cos they stuck as "Processing". Not sure what the delay is because the website said they have 'a few pieces left' and payment via Paypal was took straight off. Will wait until Tuesday and send them an email.
> 
> Anyone got ideas that doesn't involve hacking the Vregs cooler to keep the covering for the I/O ports?
> 
> For now my board is safely tucked away ...


Welcome! And sorry to hear, Paypal normally auto removes the Fee regardless of who you purchase through it seems. Others have started getting their blocks though, and if the wait goes on too long you can always cancel and grab from PPC's or FCPU


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I'm going to order my CPU and memory today anyhow out of these what would you get?


You're in the exact same boat as me my friend... I'm contemplating my memory choices for this board, and if you hadn't asked, I certainly would have.

For me though, I have to say that this build will most likely be my last. I have far too many other things I'd like to do with my money than to chase the white rabbit down the hole - so whatever hardware I'm getting for this build, I have to get it right. Many thanks to cavadeca for his contributions in answering those RAM questions.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I'm going to order my CPU and memory today anyhow out of these what would you get?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're in the exact same boat as me my friend... I'm contemplating my memory choices for this board, and if you hadn't asked, I certainly would have.
> 
> For me though, I have to say that this build will most likely be my last. I have far too many other things I'd like to do with my money than to chase the white rabbit down the hole - so whatever hardware I'm getting for this build, I have to get it right. Many thanks to cavadeca for his contributions in answering those RAM questions.
Click to expand...

DONT DO IT [email protected]!! the rabbit hole is cool and you know you will want another !!!


----------



## Seallone

Ive got a Question, Can any one Help.

Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Has a cpu 8 pin 4 pin, Manual says i need too have both plugged in. or will not boot.

My power supply is corsair AX1200 old one, With 8 pin and 8 pin.










Thanks


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seallone*
> 
> Ive got a Question, Can any one Help.
> 
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Has a cpu 8 pin 4 pin, Manual says i need too have both plugged in. or will not boot.
> 
> My power supply is corsair AX1200 old one, With 8 pin and 8 pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


One of the 8 pins if not both should have the ability to separate from each other breaking into 2x 4pin, that's how my 1200 is.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Seallone*
> 
> Ive got a Question, Can any one Help.
> 
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Has a cpu 8 pin 4 pin, Manual says i need too have both plugged in. or will not boot.
> 
> My power supply is corsair AX1200 old one, With 8 pin and 8 pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> One of the 8 pins if not both should have the ability to separate from each other breaking into 2x 4pin, that's how my 1200 is.
Click to expand...

and it should not matter you should be able to plug in only the 8 pin and be fine


----------



## Dayjavu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you ocing using blk ??
> windows is kinda fun now with uefi, you need to install from a uefi device ( i would recommend downloading a usb copy ) i can get you a link if you want it is the best way i know how to do this and you only need a 4gb usb
> 
> some more things that help me is this
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds/0_100
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1240779/seans-windows-8-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds/0_100


Changed the multiplier to 42 only. It was working but I'm sure more could have been done to make it run better.

I do have a ISO of Windows 8.1 and did the install from a USB stick but I don't think I fully did it right. I will to read the links you sent. I followed install instructions from the ROG forums for the raidr express but it seemed a little different then what I was seeing.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> You're in the exact same boat as me my friend... I'm contemplating my memory choices for this board, and if you hadn't asked, I certainly would have.
> 
> For me though, I have to say that this build will most likely be my last. I have far too many other things I'd like to do with my money than to chase the white rabbit down the hole - so whatever hardware I'm getting for this build, I have to get it right. Many thanks to cavadeca for his contributions in answering those RAM questions.


I hear you buddy, I'm narrowing it down to what I'm going to go with and I don't plan on upgrading for a while


----------



## SMiThaYe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Welcome! And sorry to hear, Paypal normally auto removes the Fee regardless of who you purchase through it seems. Others have started getting their blocks though, and if the wait goes on too long you can always cancel and grab from PPC's or FCPU


Thanks for the welcome! I'm from the UK and the delivery costs of $41.55 for R4BE block is too much from FCPU and probably the same for whoever PPC is - pardon my ignorance. You are so lucky to have a massive choice from FCPU, shame delivery international is prohibitive.
Do you recall how long others had to wait for their EK R4BE blocks?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dayjavu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you ocing using blk ??
> windows is kinda fun now with uefi, you need to install from a uefi device ( i would recommend downloading a usb copy ) i can get you a link if you want it is the best way i know how to do this and you only need a 4gb usb
> 
> some more things that help me is this
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds/0_100
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1240779/seans-windows-8-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds/0_100
> 
> 
> 
> Changed the multiplier to 42 only. It was working but I'm sure more could have been done to make it run better.
> 
> I do have a ISO of Windows 8.1 and did the install from a USB stick but I don't think I fully did it right. I will to read the links you sent. I followed install instructions from the ROG forums for the raidr express but it seemed a little different then what I was seeing.
Click to expand...

install in gpt ! it helps !


----------



## ProfeZZor X

So what's the consensus on the Corsair Vengeance Pro RAM?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SMiThaYe*
> 
> Thanks for the welcome! I'm from the UK and the delivery costs of $41.55 for R4BE block is too much from FCPU and probably the same for whoever PPC is - pardon my ignorance. You are so lucky to have a massive choice from FCPU, shame delivery international is prohibitive.
> Do you recall how long others had to wait for their EK R4BE blocks?


I believe it was about a week since new years was off for holidays and such. As for the UK you should check in the WC thread as there are quite a few mentionable sites from fellow UK shoppers.


----------



## Seallone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and it should not matter you should be able to plug in only the 8 pin and be fine


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> One of the 8 pins if not both should have the ability to separate from each other breaking into 2x 4pin, that's how my 1200 is.


O thank you, With out the manual and with out taking a real close look, would have never new.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dayjavu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> PM SENT
> 
> 
> 
> Reaper could you share that PM with me. I have same knowledge about OC'ing as pptest123, same CPU and I am shooting for 4.4 - 4.6 as well. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Click to expand...

PM Sent


----------



## Ftimster

You asked and you shall receive...... here is a run at 4.9 at 1.350vcore strangely though CPU- Z shows my voltage as 1.360 everything in my bios with the exception of a couple small tweaks NOT CPU related are set to auto everything does seem to be set to rock on this board at auto settings for me at least going to keep it at 4.8 for 24\7 good chip and rivbe board:thumb:


----------



## skupples

hehe... I think some people be owing me some money now that we know the 790 IS coming out. IDK how many people told me that "it's not going to happen, heat & stuff, it would have to be 2x cores smaller than 780"


----------



## SMiThaYe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I believe it was about a week since new years was off for holidays and such. As for the UK you should check in the WC thread as there are quite a few mentionable sites from fellow UK shoppers.


Found the list of UK stores you hinted at but most don't have stock and aren't listing when they'll receive it. One store I found that wasn't on Juggalo helpful list is awaiting stock and that's down for the *16th January*. I'd assume this date should apply to anyone else buying directly too.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> 
> You asked and you shall receive...... here is a run at 4.9 at 1.350vcore strangely though CPU- Z shows my voltage as 1.360 everything in my bios with the exception of a couple small tweaks NOT CPU related are set to auto everything does seem to be set to rock on this board at auto settings for me at least going to keep it at 4.8 for 24\7 good chip and rivbe board:thumb:


Nice, How do you like that memory and what's the memory running at when the CPU is at 4.8GHz?


----------



## Infectedshadow

Been using this board for almost a week now and love it. Just need my second 670 back from RMA to complete it.


----------



## Mega Man

welcome !


----------



## Mappi75

Hello i switched from:

Asus REIV 3960X to the Black with 4960X

But i have a real problem with my 64 GB Memory Kit from *Kingston KHX16C9K8/64X*:

http://geizhals.at/de/kingston-hyperx-dimm-xmp-kit-64gb-khx16c9k8-64x-a816557.html

Every time when is start Prime95 the PC goes off and reboot!

With 32GB it works.....

On my 3960X this Kit runs 100% stable!

I raised *VCCSA Current Capability* from 100% to 130% - but i doesnt work!

Got a Enermax 1200W NT and a Titan 3-Way-SLI.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> Hello i switched from:
> 
> Asus REIV 3960X to the Black with 4960X
> 
> But i have a real problem with my 64 GB Memory Kit from Kingston:
> 
> http://geizhals.at/de/kingston-hyperx-dimm-xmp-kit-64gb-khx16c9k8-64x-a816557.html
> 
> Every time when is start Prime95 the PC goes off and reboot!
> 
> With 32GB it works.....
> 
> On my 3960X this Kit runs 100% stable!
> 
> I raised *VCCSA Current Capability* from 100% to 130% - but i doesnt work!
> 
> Got a Enermax 1200W NT and a Titan 3-Way-SLI.


I think you get more VCCSA voltage 1,2V or higher and then try again !
And give it 1,55V DRAM.


----------



## kpoeticg

First off, Welcome to OCN and the RIVE BE Club

Second, 1200W for 3 Titans, 4960x, RIVE BE, and 64GB of ram; not gonna happen

You need more power!!!!









Prime95 is stressing your components beyond the capabilities of your 1200W. Pretty sure that's what's happening....


----------



## Mappi75

@kpoeticg

1200W is "ok" my REIV with 3960X runs with 3x Titans and 3x EVGA GTX680 Classied - never ! a problem.

@MehlstaubtheCat

Thanks for the fast reply, can you give me the exact name of this option in the Black Bios ?


----------



## kpoeticg

Maybe I'm wrong then.

Titans are pretty power hungry. It seems like the extra 32GB of ram pushed your PSU over the limit

I'm not an expert tho.....


----------



## Mappi75

I raised *CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage to 1,200V* & *DRAM Voltage to 1,55V*

PC still goes off and reboot..

or did you mean another VCCSA Option ?

@kpoeticg

Only hit 1000W in Tomb Raider no game need more power with the titans


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Maybe I'm wrong then.
> Titans are pretty power hungry. It seems like the extra 32GB of ram pushed your PSU over the limit
> 
> I'm not an expert tho.....


if he was 100% loading the titans & the CPU @ the same time, with a medium OC on the titans, he would easily shut the PSU down, but not in P95 where the GPU's are idle.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> I raised *CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage to 1,200V* & *DRAM Voltage to 1,55V*
> 
> PC still goes off and reboot..
> 
> or did you mean another VCCSA Option ?


the other VCCSA & might as well tweak VTT to 1.15 or higher as well.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah excellent point about only stressing the CPU.

Apologies...


----------



## Mappi75

raised VTT to 1,15 too

did not work!









Thats really annoying!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> Hello i switched from:
> 
> Asus REIV 3960X to the Black with 4960X
> 
> But i have a real problem with my 64 GB Memory Kit from Kingston:
> 
> http://geizhals.at/de/kingston-hyperx-dimm-xmp-kit-64gb-khx16c9k8-64x-a816557.html
> 
> Every time when is start Prime95 the PC goes off and reboot!
> 
> With 32GB it works.....
> 
> On my 3960X this Kit runs 100% stable!
> 
> I raised *VCCSA Current Capability* from 100% to 130% - but i doesnt work!
> 
> Got a Enermax 1200W NT and a Titan 3-Way-SLI.


I had the same issue with 64gig not sure what is going on with that but at 32gig I am good to go so I just took out 32gig.


----------



## Mappi75

I replace the 4960X with the 3960X - its the same problem!!

I thougt all controllers are on the cpu die?

Later i will replace the MB and test it with the REIV.

So i can say its only a mobo problem ?
or its defective??

@reaper

you have the same problems with 64GB?

what kit do you use??


----------



## _REAPER_

I have a Corsair Dominator 64gig set 2133mhz ram


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> I replace the 4960X with the 3960X - its the same problem!!
> 
> I thougt all controllers are on the cpu die?
> 
> Later i will replace the MB and test it with the REIV.
> 
> So i can say its only a mobo problem ?
> or its defective??
> 
> @reaper
> 
> you have the same problems with 64GB?
> 
> what kit do you use??


BIOS needs tuning, severely in some cases, depending on what CPU used, and what ram is used. I had similar problems, and I am sure now that CPU change fixed the problem for me. CPU IMC only natively supports 1866, and I am not sure 64 GB @ 1866.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> I replace the 4960X with the 3960X - its the same problem!!
> 
> I thougt all controllers are on the cpu die?
> 
> Later i will replace the MB and test it with the REIV.
> 
> So i can say its only a mobo problem ?
> or its defective??
> 
> @reaper
> 
> you have the same problems with 64GB?
> 
> what kit do you use??
> 
> 
> 
> BIOS needs tuning, severely in some cases, depending on what CPU used, and what ram is used. I had similar problems, and I am sure now that CPU change fixed the problem for me. CPU IMC only natively supports 1866, and I am not sure 64 GB @ 1866.
Click to expand...

I backed mine down to 1866mhz with 64gig and it still gave me issues. I can run it all day at 1333mhz but as soon as I tried to get it up to rated speeds or a little below no joy


----------



## Mappi75

my memory ist only DDR3-1600 CL9
an this kit works with a Intel DX79 SI without problems (i want to say its not magic to use a 64gb kit @1600Mhz)

i had a g.skill kit 64 GB @2400Mhz - that didnt work with this speed


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> my memory ist only DDR3-1600 CL9
> an this kit works with a Intel DX79 SI without problems (i want to say its not magic to use a 64gb kit @1600Mhz)
> 
> i had a g.skill kit 64 GB @2400Mhz - that didnt work with this speed


Honestly, I am not 100% sure CPU change fixed my problems. I also had a PSU blow up while playing BF4 with a couple of 7970's in the board, and I haven't had a single problem since then. I run 4.5 GHz with 16 GB @ 2133, or 32 GB @ 1600. I can run 16 GB with 2666 Mhz as well, but although my 32 GB ram kit is capable of 2400 MHz with Haswell, not with this platform at all, and I have 3x 4960X. How far I can push memory changes with each CPU.

BIOS likely needs and update for "auto" settings for large densities of ram too, possibly.


----------



## rabidz7

I just use XMP to run my 2x8GB at 2400MHz


----------



## hotrod717

All this talk of memory. Here is my 2 sets of 2000mhz Flares pulling 2666mhz. Set your memory speed, leave everything on auto and then fine tune. The auto settings will help, they are your friend.

Granted this isn't 32 or 64gigs, but auto settings on this board are pretty good.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infectedshadow*
> 
> Been using this board for almost a week now and love it. Just need my second 670 back from RMA to complete it.


w000 if I didn't welcome you already then WE-WE-WELCOME!!!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> All this talk of memory. Here is my 2 sets of 2000mhz Flares pulling 2666mhz. Set your memory speed, leave everything on auto and then fine tune. The auto settings will help, they are your friend. Granted this isn't 32 or 64gigs, but auto settings on this board are pretty good.


I don't think there'd be so many complaints if it just was that simple.







What I can say for sure is that loading optimized defaults can make timings show as being set to auto, but they don't always revert for me.

I don' really see it as a big issue, either. ASUS Extreme boards aren't meant to be plug-and-play in my books


----------



## King4x4

So only with a lonely NZXT Havik 140 I got a nice juicy 4.5ghz on 1.29v Super Stable on Intel Burn Test with a max temp of 84'C.

Need my watercooling gear to arrive.... I am smelling a possible minimum overclock of 4.7ghz (Aiming for 4.9ghz if possible).

Oh btw... Loving the motherboard!


----------



## hotrod717

It is really that simple. You must set strap 125 or above to run 2400mhz+. Check your voltage readings as well. This will give a good baseline to go off of. You don't just go in and start punching in random numbers for offset. You take a look at your stock VID and do a bit of math. Same deal. Try some different clocks on auto and it gives you a good idea of what you'll need for a manual overclock, with a few tweaks here and there to get better efficiency. Each chip is a little different.


----------



## Mappi75

omg!

I build only 32GB and the pc turns off with prime95 !!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> It is really that simple. You must set strap 125 or above to run 2400mhz+. Check your voltage readings as well. This will give a good baseline to go off of. You don't just go in and start punching in random numbers for offset. You take a look at your stock VID and do a bit of math. Same deal. Try some different clocks on auto and it gives you a good idea of what you'll need for a manual overclock, with a few tweaks here and there to get better efficiency. Each chip is a little different.


I guess you didn't see me posting BIOS screenshots with my stable settings. It's not that easy with every chip. Intel sent me three chips to play with, only one works well in this board. There is a slight chance that PSU was the cause.

1000% the BIOS needs work for 24/7 users. P9X79 Deluxe, RIVE, other boards are not as problematic as this one is. That said, we've had only a couple of BIOSes, and only one for you guys. My motherboard doesn't even have a serial number. My box is also different than yours.









No offense, man, but I feel that posts like your give users the wrong impression. The board is fantastic, but it does require a fair bit of knowledge (or with lack of knowledge, time spent tweaking stuff individually) to get maximum clocks out of.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I guess you didn't see me posting BIOS screenshots with my stable settings. It's not that easy with every chip. Intel sent me three chips to play with, only one works well in this board. There is a slight chance that PSU was the cause.
> 
> 1000% the BIOS needs work for 24/7 users. P9X79 Deluxe, RIVE, other boards are not as problematic as this one is. That said, we've had only a couple of BIOSes, and only one for you guys. My motherboard doesn't even have a serial number. My box is also different than yours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No offense, man, but I feel that posts like your give users the wrong impression. The board is fantastic, but it does require a fair bit of knowledge (or with lack of knowledge, time spent tweaking stuff individually) to get maximum clocks out of.


No doubt, it takes some knowledge and some time spent to get a good oc. I agree we need a bios update. But, sometimes flashing a bunch of settings doesn't help. Basics. That's all I'm saying. Agreeing with you on a lot of what you're saying. Sometimes a little hope goes a long way is all.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> No doubt, it takes some knowledge and some time spent to get a good oc. I agree we need a bios update. But, sometimes flashing a bunch of settings doesn't help. Basics. That's all I'm saying. Agreeing with you on a lot of what you're saying. Sometimes a little hope goes a long way is all.


Of course. You're one of the lucky ones using memory that has a profile in BIOS (high-bin PSC), where with 8 GB DIMMs, there's just...well..nothing.







The board is tuned for benching, obviously, and every memory stick a bencher wants to use works, and works well. Hynix and Samsung 4 GB DIMMs dual-sided, no problem. Single-sided...still need some work as well. I'm used to pushing over 3400 MHz pretty easily... and I can bench there, no problem...long-term stable, no. P9X79 Deluxe...believe it or not...is stable where this board isn't.

The auto rules are actually more to my personal liking, rather than what ASUS would normally do, with fairly tight auto settings and extra voltage. XMP on P9X79 is far tighter than on RIVBE...RIVBE gives better clock-per-clock performance even with "looser" settings, I think. I'd even be happy with those issues being present as it's required to get better benches...but not everyone has bought this board for benching only.

Those other two chips I have...man, in this board..they are a waste of time. not even 4.4 GHz. P9X79 Deluxe...4.6 GHz, no problem. It's really interesting.


----------



## skupples

running all 8 dimms @ any speed is a major strain on the IMC. It's going to require allot more voltage than those of us with 16, or 32gb of rams. I would keep bumping up the volts .05 @ a time. The 4xxx CPU will be your best bet.

Hopefully Asus gives us a new bios soon.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Of course. You're one of the lucky ones using memory that has a profile in BIOS (high-bin PSC), where with 8 GB DIMMs, there's just...well..nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The board is tuned for benching, obviously, and every memory stick a bencher wants to use works, and works well. Hynix and Samsung 4 GB DIMMs dual-sided, no problem. Single-sided...still need some work as well. I'm used to pushing over 3400 MHz pretty easily... and I can bench there, no problem...long-term stable, no. P9X79 Deluxe...believe it or not...is stable where this board isn't.
> 
> The auto rules are actually more to my personal liking, rather than what ASUS would normally do, with fairly tight auto settings and extra voltage. XMP on P9X79 is far tighter than on RIVBE...RIVBE gives better clock-per-clock performance even with "looser" settings, I think. I'd even be happy with those issues being present as it's required to get better benches...but not everyone has bought this board for benching only.
> 
> Those other two chips I have...man, in this board..they are a waste of time. not even 4.4 GHz. P9X79 Deluxe...4.6 GHz, no problem. It's really interesting.


I believe a major part of the issue is average users buying what they think is the best and loading up on the memory for average workstation use. This a BENCHERS motherboard. Period. That's what it was designed for. That's what I bought it for.


----------



## USFORCES

This is the memory I finely went with and I hope it works out good.







There was no reviews on egg yet probably because it's newer G.Skill that was just released a couple months back anyhow G.Skill recommends it for the 4930k and the 4960x on the Asus black IV.


----------



## navynuke499

Anyone tried out the sound with headphones yet? just wondering if it will still be worth getting an additional card.


----------



## Mappi75

one Hint - but it doesn't work for me:

*"DRAM Timing Control: Mode 3 for Ivy Bridge-E"*

One guy from another forum told me..


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> Anyone tried out the sound with headphones yet? just wondering if it will still be worth getting an additional card.


I did quite a bit of testing on the sound. I posted details in another thread but let me just say that I found it to be excellent, in line with the Xonar card I used as a control. I was surprised that it is that good, clear, accurate, lots of power but not obtrusive. I am an over the top audiophile and I decided to NOT install a sound card based on my testing and what I am hearing.


----------



## USFORCES

G.skill memory at Newegg
EXTRA 10% OFF with promo code EMCPWPA25 (expires 01/10/2014)


----------



## Mappi75

Replace the Enermax 1.200W with the Seasonic 1.000W Platiunum = does not work!

Replace the Memory Kingston to G.Skill 32GB DDR3-1600 CL10 - you really dont need to change the voltages! ? does not work!

I think the Mobo is defective!


----------



## tvelander

I got my black edtion, and everything works fine start up go to BIOS start setup settings for SSD to install OS.

When i sit in BIOS in open bench rig, after 5-10 minutes the computer shut off, and everything still light on motherboard.

I try to boot again, it boot for 0.1 second and the motherboard still lights up but nothing happends.

I try reset CMOS, take out battery in and out, i try BIOS Switch.

I try switch power supply

I try switch memory.

Nothing worked.

Dont know if RMA


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> I did quite a bit of testing on the sound. I posted details in another thread but let me just say that I found it to be excellent, in line with the Xonar card I used as a control. I was surprised that it is that good, clear, accurate, lots of power but not obtrusive. I am an over the top audiophile and I decided to NOT install a sound card based on my testing and what I am hearing.


+Rep to you good sir, just what i was hoping to hear.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvelander*
> 
> I got my black edtion, and everything works fine start up go to BIOS start setup settings for SSD to install OS.
> 
> When i sit in BIOS in open bench rig, after 5-10 minutes the computer shut off, and everything still light on motherboard.
> 
> I try to boot again, it boot for 0.1 second and the motherboard still lights up but nothing happends.
> 
> I try reset CMOS, take out battery in and out, i try BIOS Switch.
> 
> I try switch power supply
> 
> I try switch memory.
> 
> Nothing worked.
> 
> Dont know if RMA


I had the same problem and posted about it in this thread a while back. Your board does a continuous power on and off cycling right? It doesn't post fully but all lights are on so there is power detected correct? If that is the problem you had, you probably had same issue as me and I solved it by just RMA'ing the board. The new board arrived a little over a week later and has been working with the same components since.


----------



## tvelander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> I had the same problem and posted about it in this thread a while back. Your board does a continuous power on and off cycling right? It doesn't post fully but all lights are on so there is power detected correct? If that is the problem you had, you probably had same issue as me and I solved it by just RMA'ing the board. The new board arrived a little over a week later and has been working with the same components since.


Yes, thx i will RMA tommorw.


----------



## ANDEEZY

So I'm in the middle of putting my rig together. I'm stuck installing my H110. I read people recommended a 4 pin Y splitter for the 2 140mm fans and plug that into the CPU FAN. I don't have a Y splitter and I'm not sure what to do and if I need the Y splitter at all. Where should I be plugging the pump and the fans? CPU FAN and CPU OPT?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> Replace the Enermax 1.200W with the Seasonic 1.000W Platiunum = does not work!
> 
> Replace the Memory Kingston to G.Skill 32GB DDR3-1600 CL10 - you really dont need to change the voltages! ? does not work!
> 
> I think the Mobo is defective!


idk man, it's possible it's the board, but it's also possible these are ram kits that are not very compatible with the bios yet. I would set the dram current to 140%, VCCSA to 1.25v VTT to 1.25V & make sure you have XMP set & that the ram is running at or above it's rated voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> So I'm in the middle of putting my rig together. I'm stuck installing my H110. I read people recommended a 4 pin Y splitter for the 2 140mm fans and plug that into the CPU FAN. I don't have a Y splitter and I'm not sure what to do and if I need the Y splitter at all. Where should I be plugging the pump and the fans? CPU FAN and CPU OPT?


Yes, use CPU FAN & CPU OPT... They both run off of the same signal from what I understand.


----------



## Mappi75

I tried 3 different memory kit's and none of them worked.

Now i build my old REIV with the 4960X and my 64GB Kingston Kit and it works without problems!
I dont have to raise any voltage...

I think the Black is "the same" mobo like the REIV so i cant understand why the bios/memory is bull***** !?

Edit:

some guy wrote me to raise
*
CPU Current Capability* to 120%

that works for him - so i give it a try tomorrow...


----------



## Chucklez

Finally got it! Here's proof


----------



## ANDEEZY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yes, use CPU FAN & CPU OPT... They both run off of the same signal from what I understand.


So 1 fan in CPU FAN and the other fan in CPU OPT. The 3 pin pump in OPT FAN? That means the 2 fans will be regulated correct?


----------



## Dantrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> So I'm in the middle of putting my rig together. I'm stuck installing my H110. I read people recommended a 4 pin Y splitter for the 2 140mm fans and plug that into the CPU FAN. I don't have a Y splitter and I'm not sure what to do and if I need the Y splitter at all. Where should I be plugging the pump and the fans? CPU FAN and CPU OPT?


Plug the H110 three wire pump lead into the CPU fan header (it will read +/- 1500 rpm) Plug your fans into opt fan 1 & opt fan 3 headers rather than CPU OPT.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> I tried 3 different memory kit's and none of them worked.
> 
> Now i build my old REIV with the 4960X and my 64GB Kingston Kit and it works without problems!
> I dont have to raise any voltage...
> 
> I think the Black is "the same" mobo like the REIV so i cant understand why the bios/memory is bull***** !?


The board is NOT the exact same as RIVE, hence the difference. ASUS staff were pretty plain at stating this, and that you should not expect to be able to take settings from RIVE to use with RIVBE. That why using "auto" rules can work often...but it doesn't in every situation, for sure.

try 2 GB or 4 GB sticks, or 1600 MHz or less with 8 GB sticks, or if possible, try other chips. ALso, when changing ram, it's a good idea to use MemOK, then try changes, and use SPD tool to check and make sure sticks are inserted properly...SPD will show "error" sometimes when stick need to be re-inserted.


----------



## Seallone

What software u using ? I say this ive just got the board last night starting to overclock, Using motherboard software AI suite. Temp core, and HW monitor, they all show differant Temps.

Question what do i trust, ?


----------



## ANDEEZY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> Plug the H110 three wire pump lead into the CPU fan header (it will read +/- 1500 rpm) Plug your fans into opt fan 1 & opt fan 3 headers rather than CPU OPT.


Ok thank you!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> Ok thank you!


I'd actually do the exact opposite, and use CPU fan headers for the fans, and the OPT fan headers for pump head.. If you leave pump in CPU fan header, be sure to disable speedfan functions. If you use CPU-fan headers for fans, then you can use the BIOS to adjust fan speeds pretty easily for both fans, with just one option in BIOS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seallone*
> 
> What software u using ? I say this ive just got the board last night starting to overclock, Using motherboard software AI suite. Temp core, and HW monitor, they all show differant Temps.
> 
> Question what do i trust, ?


Try AIDA64. It's been updated to show everything correctly(votlages, temps, fans, etc). AI Suite shows socket temps for CPU.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> So 1 fan in CPU FAN and the other fan in CPU OPT. The 3 pin pump in OPT FAN? That means the 2 fans will be regulated correct?


derp, didn't think about that. The pump needs to be hooked up to the CPU_FAN, the other fans can be hooked up where ever you want really.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seallone*
> 
> What software u using ? I say this ive just got the board last night starting to overclock, Using motherboard software AI suite. Temp core, and HW monitor, they all show differant Temps.
> 
> Question what do i trust, ?


add up all three, divide by three....


----------



## Dantrax

Sorry Andeezy I didn't realize you wanted the mobo to regulate your fan speed. I disabled all the Q fan controls & plugged my H110 into the cpu fan header. I'm actually using a Kracken X-60 because the H110 hoses were too short, I just swapped the stator from my H110 (pop off cover & remove 3 screws) & attached it to my X-60 then I plugged it into the cpu fan header. The H110 pump will let the r4be read pump rpms while the X-60 doesn't so you have to disable the cpu fan speed monitoring. I like having the pump plugged into the cpu fan header because if the pump poops out I'll get a no cpu fan rpm warning & I'll know my pump is dead. I'm using a fan speed controller for my fans.


----------



## Seallone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I'd actually do the exact opposite, and use CPU fan headers for the fans, and the OPT fan headers for pump head.. If you leave pump in CPU fan header, be sure to disable speedfan functions. If you use CPU-fan headers for fans, then you can use the BIOS to adjust fan speeds pretty easily for both fans, with just one option in BIOS.
> Try AIDA64. It's been updated to show everything correctly(votlages, temps, fans, etc). AI Suite shows socket temps for CPU.


Thanks You


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> It is really that simple. You must set strap 125 or above to run 2400mhz+. Check your voltage readings as well. This will give a good baseline to go off of. You don't just go in and start punching in random numbers for offset. You take a look at your stock VID and do a bit of math. Same deal. Try some different clocks on auto and it gives you a good idea of what you'll need for a manual overclock, with a few tweaks here and there to get better efficiency. Each chip is a little different.


Huh. Why does my RAM run at 2400MHz with a strap of 100?


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Huh. Why does my RAM run at 2400MHz with a strap of 100?


@2400mhz+ = meaning above 2400mhz i.e 2600, 2666,.....


----------



## skupples

strapping shouldn't be necessary for rated speeds on a memory kit with a 4xxx cpu.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> I tried 3 different memory kit's and none of them worked.
> 
> Now i build my old RIVBE with the 4960X and my 64GB Kingston Kit and it works without problems!
> I dont have to raise any voltage...
> 
> I think the Black is "the same" mobo like the REIV so i cant understand why the bios/memory is bull***** !?
> 
> 
> 
> The board is NOT the exact same as RIVE, hence the difference. ASUS staff were pretty plain at stating this, and that you should not expect to be able to take settings from RIVE to use with RIVBE. That why using "auto" rules can work often...but it doesn't in every situation, for sure.
> 
> try 2 GB or 4 GB sticks, or 1600 MHz or less with 8 GB sticks, or if possible, try other chips. ALso, when changing ram, it's a good idea to use MemOK, then try changes, and use SPD tool to check and make sure sticks are inserted properly...SPD will show "error" sometimes when stick need to be re-inserted.
Click to expand...

I agree with you Mappi75 this RIVBE + bios 0403 is not for overclockers and will give you 10 - 15 % less performance capability that RIVE + bios 206 for all those restrictions. After contact ASUS and show all of my disappointment they apologies and promise to release asap a new bios.


----------



## Chucklez

Hey by any chance do any of you know if you can Activate the AC Black Flag code on steam? Or do I really have to use UPlay?


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chucklez*
> 
> Hey by any chance do any of you know if you can Activate the AC Black Flag code on steam? Or do I really have to use UPlay?


Even if you put it on steam it will still download uplay and make you play it through uplay. So might as well save a little time download uplay activate it download it because no matter what you will have to play it through uplay


----------



## wermad

Sell your AC copy and buy a new steam key (both can be done on ebay)


----------



## Chucklez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sell your AC copy and buy a new steam key (both can be done on ebay)


Id rather just download UPlay at that point lol, but thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Even if you put it on steam it will still download uplay and make you play it through uplay. So might as well save a little time download uplay activate it download it because no matter what you will have to play it through uplay


Thanks! I hate that game makers started doing this, it gets me to not want to buy their games...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sell your AC copy and buy a new steam key (both can be done on ebay)


would still require uplay.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> strapping shouldn't be necessary for rated speeds on a memory kit with a 4xxx cpu.


Not so. I suggest for anyone having memory issues to take a look at this.- http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=

Specific quote from Raja - " Memory speeds over DDR3-2400 may be more stable when using the 125 MHz BCLK strap."


----------



## ANDEEZY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I'd actually do the exact opposite, and use CPU fan headers for the fans, and the OPT fan headers for pump head.. If you leave pump in CPU fan header, be sure to disable speedfan functions. If you use CPU-fan headers for fans, then you can use the BIOS to adjust fan speeds pretty easily for both fans, with just one option in BIOS.


So you're saying plug both fans into the CPU FAN. Meaning I would need a 4 pin Y splitter right?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> would still require uplay.


Can this Confirmed? I know Some of my origin games do use uplay.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> So you're saying plug both fans into the CPU FAN. Meaning I would need a 4 pin Y splitter right?


No, plug one into CPU_FAN, the other into CPU_OPT fan.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> This is the memory I finely went with and I hope it works out good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was no reviews on egg yet probably because it's newer G.Skill that was just released a couple months back anyhow G.Skill recommends it for the 4930k and the 4960x on the Asus black IV.


Very nice... I still haven't decided on the type of RAM I'll buy, but to make up for it, I bought my CPU today.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Can this Confirmed? I know Some of my origin games do use uplay.


Yes. Assassins creed:Black Flag & many many other Ubi titles launch uplay via steam, if the game is owned through steam. Just like Far Cry3.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yes. Assassins creed:Black Flag & many many other Ubi titles launch uplay via steam, if the game is owned through steam. Just like Far Cry3.


I prefer to have it stored on my steam library tbh. I don't really care if the still launches uplay since I have some origin games that already require it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> I tried 3 different memory kit's and none of them worked.
> 
> Now i build my old REIV with the 4960X and my 64GB Kingston Kit and it works without problems!
> I dont have to raise any voltage...
> 
> I think the Black is "the same" mobo like the REIV so i cant understand why the bios/memory is bull***** !?
> 
> Edit:
> 
> some guy wrote me to raise
> *
> CPU Current Capability* to 120%
> 
> that works for him - so i give it a try tomorrow...


i have to use 180%

but that is just not true, asus is not cheap enough to just recolor a board, even ( yes amd board ) the CVF and the CVFz were COMPLETELY different layout and everything


----------



## wermad

Curious why the audio is low on some things and loud on other things. Just launched a game it sounds pretty low and then I switch to firefox on youtube and it blasts the crap out of my ears. Very inconsistent audio (unlike the Sniper5







).


----------



## dsimpson23670

Hi, Can someone please help me.

I have an issue where my new build reboots but only when I use prime 95 or Intel Burn Test. My pc has no problems when auto is set (1333 MHz) in the bios but when I try to configure it manually to 2133 MHz it reboots as soon as prime 95 starts. i have also tried other frequncies (1866/1600) but it still reboots as soon as the stress software starts. I am at stock settings and I am trying to get my whole system stable before overclocking. I tried XMP But that also rebooted as soon as prime 95 started. I have iv black edition with a 3930k and my ram is dominator platinum 2133 MHz. Memtest is error free for 5 hours when X.M.P is set. It's a clean windows 8.1 OS. All temperatures are fine as it is water cooled. Bios is up to date. I have also tried my corsair vengeance 1600 Mhz ram which also reboots when running prime 95.

I7 3930K (EK Water block)
Asus Rampage IV Black edition (BIOS up to date)
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16 GB 4GB x 4 CMD16GX3M4A2133C9
OcZ ZX 1000W
R9 290X (Ek Water block)
C300 SSD
Windows 8.1


----------



## Ftimster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Nice, How do you like that memory and what's the memory running at when the CPU is at 4.8GHz?


I have had nothing but good luck with dominator plats little pricey but it runs 2400 all day


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsimpson23670*
> 
> Hi, Can someone please help me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have an issue where my new build reboots but only when I use prime 95 or Intel Burn Test. My pc has no problems when auto is set (1333 MHz) in the bios but when I try to configure it manually to 2133 MHz it reboots as soon as prime 95 starts. i have also tried other frequncies (1866/1600) but it still reboots as soon as the stress software starts. I am at stock settings and I am trying to get my whole system stable before overclocking. I tried XMP But that also rebooted as soon as prime 95 started. I have iv black edition with a 3930k and my ram is dominator platinum 2133 MHz. Memtest is error free for 5 hours when X.M.P is set. It's a clean windows 8.1 OS. All temperatures are fine as it is water cooled. Bios is up to date. I have also tried my corsair vengeance 1600 Mhz ram which also reboots when running prime 95.
> 
> I7 3930K (EK Water block)
> Asus Rampage IV Black edition (BIOS up to date)
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 16 GB 4GB x 4 CMD16GX3M4A2133C9
> OcZ ZX 1000W
> R9 290X (Ek Water block)
> C300 SSD
> Windows 8.1


iv'e had similar issues with my 3930k... I'm running 1.2 VTT & VCCSA, DRAM current @ 140%, XMP... And i think that is all it took to get it to work. This board is a bit finicky right now, it needs a new bios, but you shouldn't have any issues getting that speed stable unless it's one dog of a 3930k.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsimpson23670*
> 
> Hi, Can someone please help me.
> 
> I have an issue where my new build reboots but only when I use prime 95 or Intel Burn Test. My pc has no problems when auto is set (1333 MHz) in the bios but when I try to configure it manually to 2133 MHz it reboots as soon as prime 95 starts. i have also tried other frequncies (1866/1600) but it still reboots as soon as the stress software starts. I am at stock settings and I am trying to get my whole system stable before overclocking. I tried XMP But that also rebooted as soon as prime 95 started. I have iv black edition with a 3930k and my ram is dominator platinum 2133 MHz. Memtest is error free for 5 hours when X.M.P is set. It's a clean windows 8.1 OS. All temperatures are fine as it is water cooled. Bios is up to date. I have also tried my corsair vengeance 1600 Mhz ram which also reboots when running prime 95.
> 
> I7 3930K (EK Water block)
> Asus Rampage IV Black edition (BIOS up to date)
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 16 GB 4GB x 4 CMD16GX3M4A2133C9
> OcZ ZX 1000W
> R9 290X (Ek Water block)
> C300 SSD
> Windows 8.1


your bios for RIVBE is up to date? there is only one bios with all this restrictions. Go to asus and ask a new bios or your money back


----------



## Mappi75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsimpson23670*
> 
> Hi, Can someone please help me.
> 
> I have an issue where my new build reboots but only when I use prime 95 or Intel Burn Test...


Did you read my post?

PLZ try this:

*CPU Current Capability to 120%* in Bios


----------



## Doug2507

Good to know this, i had the same issue with an XTU bench run. As soon as it started the rig would re-boot. Couldn't get my head round it. Had everything on auto near enough, definitely current capability anyway as i was just doing a quick check with a few chips. dsimpson - keep us updated once you've checked with current set manually as i won't be home for another week.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Do I need to keep my SoundBlaster X-Fi card with the R4BE, or can I scrap it? I watch a lot of movies on my PC, and sometimes I'll use my studio headphones to listen instead of my HDTV speakers. I can't say that I can tell the difference with or without the SB card in my current RIVE since I pretty much installed it when I built the rig. So for those that have had sound cards prior to owning your R4BE's, and are now only relying on the built in sound device on the R4BE does it make a difference to keep a sound card?


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Do I need to keep my SoundBlaster X-Fi card with the R4BE, or can I scrap it? I watch a lot of movies on my PC, and sometimes I'll use my studio headphones to listen instead of my HDTV speakers. I can't say that I can tell the difference with or without the SB card in my current RIVE since I pretty much installed it when I built the rig. So for those that have had sound cards prior to owning your R4BE's, and are now only relying on the built in sound device on the R4BE does it make a difference to keep a sound card?


I previously used a Focusrite Sapphire interface for audio and do find that I can't really tell much difference with audio playback. Granted, I'm only using studio monitors and not surround. Fortunately I don't have any audio pop either. If you can't tell the difference, then I wouldn't worry about an add-on.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Do I need to keep my SoundBlaster X-Fi card with the R4BE, or can I scrap it? I watch a lot of movies on my PC, and sometimes I'll use my studio headphones to listen instead of my HDTV speakers. I can't say that I can tell the difference with or without the SB card in my current RIVE since I pretty much installed it when I built the rig. So for those that have had sound cards prior to owning your R4BE's, and are now only relying on the built in sound device on the R4BE does it make a difference to keep a sound card?


I'm pondering my audio options too. This SupremeFX seems less good then the Core3D that was *built-in* to my Gigabyte Sniperr 5 Z87. I think its worse then the one on the older Sniper3. Its just not the same and things are inconsistant. I suspected this was just a glorified crappy realtek chip. I was told otherwise but after putting it to use and some games, my sound experience is not like before. Honestly, I would keep the sound card and try both. I suspect the sound card will be a much better experience.

I'm not sure if I should add a sound card or just get another Sniper5


----------



## degenn

Depends what you're expecting from it and what you've heard before. Let's just say that the Windows/PC environment is probably one of the absolute worst environments to expect high-quality sound from regardless of what device you're using, be it a PCIe sound card or on-board solutions such as SupremeFX/Core3D, in terms of true high-end audio they are all crap. IMO if you're at all serious about sound you should be using a high-quality external DAC in conjunction with some sort of bit-perfect audio interface.

For normal users I can't imagine the SupremeFX on the RIVBE not being sufficient -- I'd think only in terms of matching input/output impedance with your headphones would potential issues arise in terms of a perceived quality difference. Contrary to popular belief it does require some forethought. I would say rather than adding a soundcard to the RIVBE to perhaps try adding a quality headphone amp instead. Also if you're going to drop $250 or so on a PCIe soundcard you're better off saving up a bit more money and going with an external AIO DAC/Preamp/Headamp IMO.

Just my


----------



## dsimpson23670

a


----------



## dsimpson23670

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> iv'e had similar issues with my 3930k... I'm running 1.2 VTT & VCCSA, DRAM current @ 140%, XMP... And i think that is all it took to get it to work. This board is a bit finicky right now, it needs a new bios, but you shouldn't have any issues getting that speed stable unless it's one dog of a 3930k.


Hi, thanks for the the replies..

I Have just set the following in my BIOS

Ai Overclock Tuner X.M.P
DRAM Frequency 2133 Mhz
DRAM - AB Current capability 140%
DRAM - CD Current capability 140%
VTT CPU voltage 1.20
2nd VTTCPU Voltage 1.20302
CPU VCCSA Manual voltage

The rest of the settings are the default values. With these settings my PC rebooted as soon as Prime 95 started.


----------



## dsimpson23670

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> your bios for RIVBE is up to date? there is only one bios with all this restrictions. Go to asus and ask a new bios or your money back


Yes, BIOS is up to date. Im started to think my motherboard is faulty


----------



## dsimpson23670

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> Did you read my post?
> 
> PLZ try this:
> 
> *CPU Current Capability to 120%* in Bios


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> Did you read my post?
> 
> PLZ try this:
> 
> *CPU Current Capability to 120%* in Bios


Hi, yes i just tried this but it still reboots when Prime 95 starts.

Ai Overclock Tuner X.M.P
DRAM Frequency 2133 Mhz
DRAM - AB Current capability 120%
DRAM - CD Current capability 120%
VTT CPU voltage 1.20
2nd VTTCPU Voltage 1.20302
CPU VCCSA Manual voltage


----------



## Mappi75

Yes me too !

Doesnt help!


----------



## A7xConnor

Should have my hands on one of these at the end of the month


----------



## King4x4

This board got awesome PWM controls for the fans O_O'


----------



## _REAPER_

Family I think everyone should look at this FORUM ref BIOS updates on this board. Just thought I would throw this out there

http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2479&highlight=Asus+bios


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsimpson23670*
> 
> Hi, yes i just tried this but it still reboots when Prime 95 starts.
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner X.M.P
> DRAM Frequency 2133 Mhz
> DRAM - AB Current capability 120%
> DRAM - CD Current capability 120%
> VTT CPU voltage 1.20
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage 1.20302
> CPU VCCSA Manual voltage


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> Yes me too !
> 
> Doesnt help!


Have you guys tried other benchmarks? Like Intel Xtreme utility or intel burn test? What p95 test are you running?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Depends what you're expecting from it and what you've heard before. Let's just say that the Windows/PC environment is probably one of the absolute worst environments to expect high-quality sound from regardless of what device you're using, be it a PCIe sound card or on-board solutions such as SupremeFX/Core3D, in terms of true high-end audio they are all crap. IMO if you're at all serious about sound you should be using a high-quality external DAC in conjunction with some sort of bit-perfect audio interface.
> 
> For normal users I can't imagine the SupremeFX on the RIVBE not being sufficient -- I'd think only in terms of matching input/output impedance with your headphones would potential issues arise in terms of a perceived quality difference. Contrary to popular belief it does require some forethought. I would say rather than adding a soundcard to the RIVBE to perhaps try adding a quality headphone amp instead. Also if you're going to drop $250 or so on a PCIe soundcard you're better off saving up a bit more money and going with an external AIO DAC/Preamp/Headamp IMO.
> 
> Just my


Thanks for the thorough explanation. I'm in no way an audiophile (







) but the GB boards have conditioned me and my ears on audio that was an improvement over the standard crappy onboard. I feel the SupremeFX is good and a let down and I really can't deal w/ inconsistencies just to make one thing work and then change it again to make another thing work. I've picked up a SB core3d Z card which was suggested as a step up from the BE onboard. Though, I'll need a riser which I hope doesn't cause any issues







.

Thanks again for the informative reply, +1


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Have you guys tried other benchmarks? Like Intel Xtreme utility or intel burn test? What p95 test are you running?


P95 second and third test 24 hr stable, Intel Xtreme utility instant reboot


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> I have had nothing but good luck with dominator plats little pricey but it runs 2400 all day


I always use corsair but went with G.Skill for the first time hopefully it pans out otherwise it will get returned for dominators.
Edit: Oh and the G.Skill I got were a bit pricy also,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231715


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

You will be happy with G.skill too i promise.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chucklez*
> 
> Finally got it! Here's proof


Grats and welcome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Depends what you're expecting from it and what you've heard before. Let's just say that the Windows/PC environment is probably one of the absolute worst environments to expect high-quality sound from regardless of what device you're using, be it a PCIe sound card or on-board solutions such as SupremeFX/Core3D, in terms of true high-end audio they are all crap. IMO if you're at all serious about sound you should be using a high-quality external DAC in conjunction with some sort of bit-perfect audio interface.
> 
> For normal users I can't imagine the SupremeFX on the RIVBE not being sufficient -- I'd think only in terms of matching input/output impedance with your headphones would potential issues arise in terms of a perceived quality difference. Contrary to popular belief it does require some forethought. I would say rather than adding a soundcard to the RIVBE to perhaps try adding a quality headphone amp instead. Also if you're going to drop $250 or so on a PCIe soundcard you're better off saving up a bit more money and going with an external AIO DAC/Preamp/Headamp IMO.
> 
> Just my


This is true, and hard to really get a balance. As for External DAC's / AIO's anything you'd recommend?


----------



## Doug2507

MSB Platinum. Been through loads of DAC's over the years and it's wins hands down.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Depends what you're expecting from it and what you've heard before. Let's just say that the Windows/PC environment is probably one of the absolute worst environments to expect high-quality sound from regardless of what device you're using, be it a PCIe sound card or on-board solutions such as SupremeFX/Core3D, in terms of true high-end audio they are all crap.


I never had a problem with Audigy 2 under XP, or Linux x64. It's PCI card, and I'd need to get PCI-E card when I'd use RIV BE, thus I'd be probably few months on on board sound. Kinda wonder about sound difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Do I need to keep my SoundBlaster X-Fi card with the R4BE, or can I scrap it?


Try it, and report the difference. Also report DPC latencies with active on board sound, and with active sound card only.


----------



## King4x4

The broadcom wifi chip on the rivbe is exttemelly bad for gaming.

Switched to a 20$ usb wifi and I got a 200ms reduction in ping.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> The broadcom wifi chip on the rivbe is exttemelly bad for gaming.
> 
> Switched to a 20$ usb wifi and I got a 200ms reduction in ping.


Sounds like a HORRIBLE driver, hopefully its not the wifi but either way I have a internal AC1750 card from Asus that I'm lovin, 9ms to my nearest test point and easily 136mb+ on speed test. I have a network jack installed in my room but I forgot to mark it when I put the bookshelves up Lol...need a way to figure out where it is on the wall so I can punch a hole sometime. I ran CAT 6a all over.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> The broadcom wifi chip on the rivbe is exttemelly bad for gaming.
> 
> Switched to a 20$ usb wifi and I got a 200ms reduction in ping.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> The broadcom wifi chip on the rivbe is exttemelly bad for gaming.
> 
> Switched to a 20$ usb wifi and I got a 200ms reduction in ping.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a HORRIBLE driver, hopefully its not the wifi but either way I have a internal AC1750 card from Asus that I'm lovin, 9ms to my nearest test point and easily 136mb+ on speed test. I have a network jack installed in my room but I forgot to mark it when I put the bookshelves up Lol...need a way to figure out where it is on the wall so I can punch a hole sometime. I ran CAT 6a all over.
Click to expand...

i have the AC1900 card but honestly the built in has been great, no need,

with that said i never have been able to get the wifi driver to work

i use the pcie cards driver

https://www.asus.com/Networking/PCEAC68/
if you install it you can open the asus folder it installs to and find your driver then uninstall the utility ( make sure to make a copy of the driver ) and my speeds are identical to my pcie card, obviously i am not talking about transfers in my network but yea

i would show you a screen but my mother just had surgery and i dont have access to my router.

( i have the nighthawk, i may also buy the new asus ac1900 router for some fun )

after you move the driver and uninstall the other utility you use device manager and manually install the driver

i average ~ 9ms pings


----------



## IT Diva

I installed the mobo blocks and tidied up all the mobo plumbing.

I also installed the nickel mounting bracket on the CPU block.

With all my blocks being nickel, the black bracket just looked horrible to me, . . . Even if you do sort of have to look for it to see it.

Figured I'd do a leakdown test to be sure I didn't miss anything.

It would sure be a damn lot easier to fix something now than later.

Darlene


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Work of art as usual Dar!


----------



## Mega Man

dang that just looks good, did you build that block for the pressure gauge your self


----------



## skupples

So.... What's the deal with x79 not having trim support? What does it actually mean in regards to SSD performance?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dang that just looks good, did you build that block for the pressure gauge your self


I made it a long time ago, actually . . . It's a little on the ugly side, but it works fine, so not too much motivation to make the next one.

Here's a post I did around Christmas on how to make one:

Poor Luna should have made himself one then and saved some serious headaches today.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/56480#post_21458126

Darlene


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I've ordered so much stuff this week for my build that I have to say my most anticipated item is my R4BE and the full board blocks I ordered from EK directly. If anything, I look forward to doing the installs on the blocks, and mounting it inside the case for fitment and to get an idea of how I'll do my acrylic plumbing.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 2014 Slinky Supercomputer is arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIVBE, i74960X, 32GB G.SKILL 3000MHz, NVIDIA GTX TITAN quad SLI
> Water-cooled for CPU, 8 RAM, 4 Titan, 2 HDD and 4 DDC Pumps


which PSU do you use for this beast?>


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 2014 Slinky Supercomputer is arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIVBE, i74960X, 32GB G.SKILL 3000MHz, NVIDIA GTX TITAN quad SLI
> Water-cooled for CPU, 8 RAM, 4 Titan, 2 HDD and 4 DDC Pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which PSU do you use for this beast?>
Click to expand...

1500W COOLER MASTER Silent PRO M2


----------



## asfgbdnf

can anyone who has quad-sli titan tell me if corsair ax1200i/antec hcp 1300 plat support quad-sli?
Is corsair sleeved cable for ax1200i also compatible with antec HCP 1300?


----------



## chimaychanga

Hey fellaz

My board arrived right after x-mas and I was in fact the first to receive it here in Denmark








Just came back from my snowboard vacation and I'm now finally starting my build after more than 2 months of waiting...
Ive also ordered them EK R4BE water blocks that should arrive next upcoming week. Then I can seriously begin my water cooling adventure








So far I'm really impressed with the R4BE and looking forward to tweaking it around.


----------



## Mappi75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> can anyone who has quad-sli titan tell me if corsair ax1200i/antec hcp 1300 plat support quad-sli?
> Is corsair sleeved cable for ax1200i also compatible with antec HCP 1300?


I would say 1.200w is to less for quad-titan-SLI
I have a 3way Titan superclocked SLI a Need in tomb raider 1.000w with my Enermax 1.200w platin.
You need more if you like to OC


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> I would say 1.200w is to less for quad-titan-SLI
> I have a 3way Titan superclocked SLI a Need in tomb raider 1.000w with my Enermax 1.200w platin.
> You need more if you like to OC


OK, but 1200 or 1300w is definitely enough for tri-SLI?


----------



## Mappi75

I would say YES but only if you dont overclocking the CPU & GPU.

Tomb Raider is THE game with the most powerconsumtion and i have near 500 Games in my Steam library ^^

But most Games are around 800W or less

BTW: with my Seasonic 1.000W Platinum i had problems with 1.000W Tomb Raider - the PC goes of (like the Black ^^).

BUT, the Seasonic MUST handle a short time over 1.000W like most good PS do..

thats why i switched to the enermax 1.200W (i really like seasonic!),

The new enermax EPM1350EWT can handle max 1.600w for a short time (60 sec.).. i think my PS was in the same range (if not the same ps).

But dont forget:

a GTX780TI 3-way-SLI needs more power than (3x) titan

The 1.500w enermax is much louder than the 1.200w (thats why i go with this PS)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> OK, but 1200 or 1300w is definitely enough for tri-SLI?


With no OC's on the Cards you should be fine, possibly with minimal OC's as well just not @ 1.3v+


----------



## Redshift 91

I nearly tap out my x1250 on 2 oc titans and a 3930k @ 5GHz. I'd use nothing less than a 1500w for 3 way and dual psu for 4 way, but I enjoy overclocking.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> OK, but 1200 or 1300w is definitely enough for tri-SLI?


My seasonic x1250 I popped a few months ago everyone said it was plenty and I was running a 3930k oc at 5 ghz and 3 GTX 780s and it popped.


----------



## LunaP

I'm waiting on either evGA to realease their 1500W v2 (sometime this month according to Jacob) or grab the new AX1500i for my Tri Titans. Gonna run the AX1200i for now and just keep low OC's on everything until the new PSU's come out, else if all else fails stick my titans on the 1200 and buy a 750-800 for my board.


----------



## Raghar

I'd have one i7-4820K and one GTX 660 and one sound card inside. I guess 550 W PSU (Dark Power Pro 10) would be enough.

I strongly suggest to start with one card play with Furmark and your favorite games and look at wattmeter. Then add more card up to reasonable limit. Don't forget that PSUs would wear out, and what was acceptable when you bought it will not be acceptable 3 years later.


----------



## marc0053

Can anyone confirm if the EK RIVE full motherboard waterblock fits the RIVBE? any modifications required?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the EK RIVE full motherboard waterblock fits the RIVBE? any modifications required?


use extra thermal pads and it will.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> My seasonic x1250 I popped a few months ago everyone said it was plenty and I was running a 3930k oc at 5 ghz and 3 GTX 780s and it popped.


3*270+500 = 1310

Who were these everyone?


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> 3*270+500 = 1310
> 
> Who were these everyone?


It was in the psu forum plus I was running skys bios on them.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the EK RIVE full motherboard waterblock fits the RIVBE? any modifications required?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the *EK RIVE full motherboard waterblock* fits the RIVBE? any modifications required?
> 
> 
> 
> use extra thermal pads and it will.
Click to expand...

Only the mosfet block, with additional pads, fits the R4BE.

The larger portion that covers the X79 is not even close to the same with regards to mounting.

The blocks for the R4BE are available now, so there's no reason not to get the right one for the board, instead of cluging something half azzed.

Darlene


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> I was running skys bios on them.


Ouch, BIOS with unlocked limits.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the EK RIVE full motherboard waterblock fits the RIVBE? any modifications required?
> 
> 
> 
> use extra thermal pads and it will.
Click to expand...



Positive, more thermal pad and also use the two washers from original part


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the EK RIVE full motherboard waterblock fits the RIVBE? any modifications required?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the *EK RIVE full motherboard waterblock* fits the RIVBE? any modifications required?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> use extra thermal pads and it will.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Only the mosfet block, with additional pads, fits the R4BE.
> 
> The larger portion that covers the X79 is not even close to the same with regards to mounting.
> 
> The blocks for the R4BE are available now, so there's no reason not to get the right one for the board, instead of cluging something half azzed.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

What?!!... $130usd less baby! That's the reason to use yours RIVE (power regulation VRM / MOSFET's) block on your RIVBE.
I watercooled the hdd, and also the DDC pumps but don't find a reason to waterblock the Intel X79 Express chip set as EK water block cools exactly as much as ASUS factory cooling solution if not less... as my rig show les temps for chip set that the fluid. （︶︿︶）use yours rive power regulation block by add a thermal pad and the two washers from asus parts.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the EK RIVE full motherboard waterblock fits the RIVBE? any modifications required?


The VRM channel will fit with extra thermal, but i'm not sure about the chipset. I think the board has different heatsink holes, so it wouldn't fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> *I watercooled the hdd, and also the DDC pumps*


How do you watercool a pump?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> [...] How do you watercool a pump?


I'm a little surprised no one sells waterblocks for DDCs as an option to the heatsinks and fans they do make for them. It'd be interesting to hear how Slinky did it if that's what he meant. I suppose you could use thermal adhesive to mount a cpu waterblock to the bottom.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> [...] How do you watercool a pump?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a little surprised no one sells waterblocks for DDCs as an option to the heatsinks and fans they do make for them. It'd be interesting to hear how Slinky did it if that's what he meant. I suppose you could use thermal adhesive to mount a cpu waterblock to the bottom.
Click to expand...

1. Change the DDC Heatsink Housing from plastic to Nickel
2. Add two EK Dominator RAM with thermal adhesive and 8 screws.

3. Voalá ~ You all Welcome!


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the EK RIVE full motherboard waterblock fits the RIVBE? any modifications required?
> 
> 
> 
> The VRM channel will fit with extra thermal, but i'm not sure about the chipset. I think the board has different heatsink holes, so it wouldn't fit.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> *I watercooled the hdd, and also the DDC pumps*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How do you watercool a pump?
Click to expand...



for more watch video


----------



## tvelander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> for more watch video


What BIOS should i use for R4BE?


----------



## Mega Man

the only one out


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvelander*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> for more watch video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What BIOS should i use for R4BE?
Click to expand...

If you are an overclocker you should use RIVE with bios206. R4BE don't have a bios sorry.. send it back to ASUS if you own one by mistake


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm waiting on either evGA to realease their 1500W v2 (sometime this month according to Jacob) or grab the new AX1500i for my Tri Titans. Gonna run the AX1200i for now and just keep low OC's on everything until the new PSU's come out, else if all else fails stick my titans on the 1200 and buy a 750-800 for my board.


any further reading for evga 1500W v2?


----------



## tvelander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> If you are an overclocker you should use RIVE with bios206. R4BE don't have a bios sorry.. send it back to ASUS if you own one by mistake


But won't use Rive 

Allready got R4B3


----------



## skupples

We only have one bios because asus is taking its sweet ass time producing a new one. Then code monkeys need to get to work.


----------



## Raghar

I just received mail: "we have unknown delivery date". What's happening at Asus? New egg is stocked, Amazon too, and a shop in the same country as I will not get delivery, and theirs supplier doesn't have a clue when they would get new ones?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> any further reading for evga 1500W v2?


I'm keeping tabs on it, so far only an 800W and a lower W was released @ CES last week. They said later this month, so hoping for information to start popping up by next week at the earliest.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> We only have one bios because asus is taking its sweet ass time producing a new one. Then code monkeys need to get to work.


I've set a script to monitor for changes on the ASUS site and news sites for new BIOS updates.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I've set a script to monitor for changes on the ASUS site and news sites for new BIOS updates.


And I wondered why Asus forum is so many times down.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> And I wondered why Asus forum is so many times down.


ha! it's set for every 15 minutes LOL









god that'd be sad though


----------



## asfgbdnf

I'd like to report a new and bizarre problem.
R4BE is turned off,
When I disconnect a USB cable (USB keyboard cable or USB mouse cable), my computer power up? OMG


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> When I disconnect a USB cable (USB keyboard cable or USB mouse cable), my computer power up?


Look at wake up events.

And because Asus still didn't deliver. I'd post few images of my current build.




































These Copper heatpipes are gorgeous. Too bad they are covering them with nickel now.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Look at wake up events.
> 
> And because Asus still didn't deliver. I'd post few images of my current build.
> 
> These Copper heatpipes are gorgeous. Too bad they are covering them with nickel now.


Look at wake up events. how to do that?


----------



## Raghar

Go into BIOS to APM tab, and try to change these switches.

Thought manual don't say anything about USB generated events, it allows only wake on LAN and RTC. If wake after power loss is disabled as well, it can't confuse USB device removal as a power loss. That's weird.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

^^^Hey asfgbdnf, please edit your post and remove the images from the quote since that isn't part of your question. Clutters up the thread to quote multiple pics...


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> ^^^Hey asfgbdnf, please edit your post and remove the images from the quote since that isn't part of your question. Clutters up the thread to quote multiple pics...


done!


----------



## Bick

Wanna join the club








Just received my R4BE - it was a long way to Ukraine for it









Tomorrow should arrive 780ti and 4930k and finally I'll stop using 900D as a table!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bick*
> 
> Wanna join the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just received my R4BE - it was a long way to Ukraine for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow should arrive 780ti and 4930k and finally I'll stop using 900D as a table!


Looks like the cat like it as well lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bick*
> 
> Wanna join the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just received my R4BE - it was a long way to Ukraine for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow should arrive 780ti and 4930k and finally I'll stop using 900D as a table!


*Welcome to da club!*


----------



## Bick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Welcome to da club!


Thanks!

Wanted to ask (while reading manual) - is that included fan controlling soft from Asus worth trying?
I'm feeling a bit upset that I've bought Corsair Link to be able to manage everything from OS in a simple blonde-oriented UI (gonna watercool it, so wanted to have all 15+ fans controlled from one place) and now I see same (as I understand) included with MB...


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Looks like the cat like it as well lol


glad to see you here Shilka, just let you know I finally go for ax1200I, too much trouble to buy a multi-rail PSU.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> glad to see you here Shilka, just let you know I finally go for ax1200I, too much trouble to buy a multi-rail PSU.


Its a ripoff unless you like to waste money for no good reason you would still be better off with the EVGA SuperNova G2


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its a ripoff unless you like to waste money for no good reason you would still be better off with the EVGA SuperNova G2


to be honest, I doubt EVGA SuperNova G2 is able to handle tri titan SLI as overall power could easily go over 1000w after some overclocking. I oveclock CPU, RAM and GPU.
One good reason I go for ax1200i is corsair's after-sale service.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> to be honest, I doubt EVGA SuperNova G2 is able to handle tri titan SLI as overall power could easily go over 1000w after some overclocking. I oveclock CPU, RAM and GPU.
> One good reason I go for ax1200i is corsair's after-sale service.


What do you have against EVGA?

I ask because despite you have been told its a very good PSU many times you still dont want anything to do with it

EVGA service is also just as good as Corsair´s so it makes little sense to go with the AX1200i when its priced higher


----------



## USFORCES

Installed the water blocks today and noticed the factory heatsink don't make contact with 3 of the 10k capacitors but the EK's block does.


Anyhow blocks installed,


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

I like how the black blocks match to the Motherboard !


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bick*
> 
> Wanna join the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just received my R4BE - it was a long way to Ukraine for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow should arrive 780ti and 4930k and finally I'll stop using 900D as a table!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats and VVelcome!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> to be honest, I doubt EVGA SuperNova G2 is able to handle tri titan SLI as overall power could easily go over 1000w after some overclocking. I oveclock CPU, RAM and GPU.
> One good reason I go for ax1200i is corsair's after-sale service.


The G2 is a 1300 watt unit, and is extremely tough, & only 200$. I think you have it confused with the p2 1000W... EVGA Customer service>Corsair customer service any day. Took corsair 2 weeks to respond to my headset RMA request. Took them 8 days to respond to my blown HX850 RMA request... Took EVGA 2 hours (on a sunday) to respond to my blown 670 RMA request, & they emailed me directly when my PSU was part of the re-call.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Installed the water blocks today and noticed the factory heatsink don't make contact with 3 of the 10k capacitors but the EK's block does.
> 
> 
> Anyhow blocks installed,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are inductors, and they don't normally get all that hot at all, so it's not too important that the stock block missed the end ones.

Having them all covered does look soooo much better though.

Darlene


----------



## Dr Mad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Positive, more thermal pad and also use the two washers from original part


Hello,

Thank you for the information but are you sure adding thicker thermal pad (>2mm) will not drastically reduce heat transfer from vrm's to waterblock?
When you stress your rig (by playing, benching etc.), the waterblock is hot?

Thx


----------



## Redshift 91

I doubt the waterblock gets hot, if the thermal pads do reduce the heat transfer, it would get even less hot. I'm sure it does add a bit of inefficiency, but my case needs them, the memory blocks all airflow to the vrm heatsinks and with a 3930k at 5 GHz, it can actually bun my fingers to touch the stock heatsinks. I'll be buying the XSPC Black edition block kit when they launch, but I'm only using the vrm block, the chipset is fine and I like the ROG light on the board.


----------



## SirWaWa

I'll just leave this here for the RoG enthusiasts
http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/asus_rog_front_base.html
Quote:


> ... integrates seamlessly with any of the ASUS Z87-based ROG Maximum VI motherboard offerings in addition to the *Rampage IV Black Edition motherboard*.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Mad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Positive, more thermal pad and also use the two washers from original part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Thank you for the information but are you sure adding thicker thermal pad (>2mm) will not drastically reduce heat transfer from vrm's to waterblock?
> When you stress your rig (by playing, benching etc.), the waterblock is hot?
> 
> Thx
Click to expand...

For thicker pad probably you will lose 1-5°C, I am not a technician sorry just an artist. If you scare buy the new one for R4BE but for me will be a lost of money. My blocks will never get hotter that 45°C as the water-cooling can reach 42°C on xtreme use or by playing all ultra setup with TITAN 4-Way SLI. I use a high flow 250l/h and 4.5l of fluid that can help temps to be low.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> I like how the black blocks match to the Motherboard !


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Those are inductors, and they don't normally get all that hot at all, so it's not too important that the stock block missed the end ones.
> 
> Having them all covered does look soooo much better though.
> 
> Darlene


My bad, those square things are chokes








Inductors are usually the little guys with wire wrapped around them.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWaWa*
> 
> I'll just leave this here for the RoG enthusiasts
> http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/asus_rog_front_base.html


so... they re-built the remote control, and are giving it a new name & making it massive? That's.... cool... I think i'll stick to my Aquaero 6 & bios overclocking.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWaWa*
> 
> I'll just leave this here for the RoG enthusiasts
> http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/asus_rog_front_base.html


I wonder if it has a learning curve tailored to your specifications, or built-in memory where it memorizes your custom OC adjustments and patterns. For the amount that ASUS charges for its motherboards, you'd think they'd put a little more thought into this redundant and unecessary gizmo... Because you know it's going to be in the $200-$350 range, just for the exclusivity of owning one... Oh, and USB 2.0?


----------



## Ftimster

Question under the bios men twek memory mode 1 memory mode 2 says may help with over clocking memory and mode 3 set for optimal ive-e support or something to that effect anyone seen this in the BIOS I made the change to mode 3 and did see a very slight performance increase and still stable????? What do you memory guys think is up with that there is also a auto setting thanks


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

If you have a Ivy E then Mode 3, i don´t know what this Mode exactly do,
but i think it has something to do with the (IMC) memory controller pre settings.
The older Sandy E IMC is a little bit technical different.
Thats way the Sandy E controller is not that good as the Ivy E.

The only way I can explain it to me personally, it does not have to be as what I've just said it's just a guess.
I have not noticed any measurable change will stability or anything else.


----------



## SeriousBlack

I have to say that I really love this board. I did have an EVGA X79 Dark before (as this board was out of stock) and hated it with a passion. I so wish I had just waited.

I can get my 4930k stable at 4.8ghz @ 1.4v and it will boot at 4.9ghz at this voltage too - Using Ultra High LLC.

I do have to up it to 1.45v though to get it stable at this frequency - only for benchmarking though as the temp on one core hits 80deg - the rest are around 70deg.

It did get me a nice score on the Asus ROG benchmark though; I'm currently 6th in the table - just let down by Nvidia'a lack of support for OpenCL.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its a ripoff unless you like to waste money for no good reason you would still be better off with the EVGA SuperNova G2


Leadex platform = LLC-DC-DC, right?


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWaWa*
> 
> I'll just leave this here for the RoG enthusiasts
> http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/asus_rog_front_base.html


"As part of the ASUS ROG product line, the ROG Front Base Dual-Bay Gaming Panel integrates seamlessly with any of the ASUS Z87-based ROG Maximum VI motherboard offerings in addition to the Rampage IV Black Edition motherboard."

Looks like we got a bit of special treatment.


----------



## Elvandar

Hey guys, I just ordered one of these motherboards, but I have a question about which audio codec it uses since I've read conflicting information and would like to know for sure. Does it use Realtek ALC892, ALC898, or ALC1150? Or is it neither of those and the Cirrus Logic CS4398?

Different/conflicting sources:

ALC1150:
http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-x79-motherboard-review/16/

CS4398:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7612/asus-rivbe

Or is the CS4398 the DAC and the ALC1150 the codec and these review sites just called both of them the codec?

Also, is the onboard audio quality pretty good?

Thanks.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elvandar*
> 
> Hey guys, I just ordered one of these motherboards, but I have a question about which audio codec it uses since I've read conflicting information and would like to know for sure. Does it use Realtek ALC892, ALC898, or ALC1150? Or is it neither of those and the Cirrus Logic CS4398?
> 
> Different/conflicting sources:
> 
> ALC1150:
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-x79-motherboard-review/16/
> 
> CS4398:
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7612/asus-rivbe
> 
> Or is the CS4398 the DAC and the ALC1150 the codec and these review sites just called both of them the codec?
> 
> Also, is the onboard audio quality pretty good?
> 
> Thanks.


CS4398 is the DAC, just south of the red "block" caps. It's a small rectangular SMD with 28 pins, 14 on either side. The CODEC is Realtek ALC1150, located under the EMI shield that says "SupremeFX". Both are present, and have different functions.

Audio is pretty good.

My RMAA test results (will be included in my review as well).


----------



## Elvandar

Thanks a lot, cadaveca.


----------



## SeriousBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elvandar*
> 
> Also, is the onboard audio quality pretty good?
> 
> Thanks.


I used the onboard sound at first as I hadn't taken my soundcard out of my old PC. Friends on Teamspeak asked me a few times what was up with my sound as I didn't sound as clear as I had done before. Once I put the soundcard back in, they again noticed that it was back to previous.

As for the clarity of music / games etc. I'll be honest and say they sounded fine, not quite up there with a dedicated soundcard, but I would be perfectly happy with onboard if I didn't have a soundcard.


----------



## Spock121

How difficult would it be to replace the red LEDs on this board? I'm thinking of using it for a project (ROG goes pink)


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Audio is pretty good.
> 
> My RMAA test results (will be included in my review as well).


That table lists "average". Average isn't in my dictionary.


----------



## ANDEEZY

Something weird is happening...Everything has been working fine but now for some reason I can't seem to get my monitor to display. I keep getting "DVI No Signal" and after rebooting it, it begins to display but then I get a "Overclocking Failed" press f2 to change settings. Oddly enough I have not done any overclocking. Other than XMP profile for ram. Anyways, I just exit the bios and then it loads up just fine. But why am I getting "Overclocking Failed"? I thought it could be the ram not fully in place but system reads 32gb. I've never run into this problem. Any help?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> That table lists "average". Average isn't in my dictionary.


The metric that is listed as "average" is greatly affected by PSU used. That's the one figure in my reviews that should be ignored, 100%.

The audio isn't perfect, for sure. I do get the "popping" on power-up over analogue, and the rear analogue output doesn't produce enough volume for my personal taste, but the optical side of things is fantastic for on-board audio. I like to consider myself a musician, so audio reproduction is very important to me (but not in the same way that an "audiophile" places importance on audio), and most of the ROG ASUS boards are quite surprising compared to other onboard solutions. I do think that many add-in cards do a better job than this board does, but that doesn't mean the audio is lacking in any way, either.


----------



## Raghar

My current card is Audigy 2 ZS, and I wouldn't be able to transfer it to new board because it's still PCI card. Now guess what HW would be delayed because I should pay yearly fee for a trash removal next month...

Is it at least at similar level as Audigy 2 ZS?


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

I think today´s onboard sound on the motherboard is better then this old Audigy 2 ZS.
The sound can not keep up. Or buy you a current soundcard, this sound much more better.


----------



## USFORCES

Ordered black Primochill ridged tubing for this build, black on black except the memory will be blue.








But I'm thinking about water cooling the memory then it will be black that's if I can figure out a way to remove the G.Skill factory heat spreader...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> Something weird is happening...Everything has been working fine but now for some reason I can't seem to get my monitor to display. I keep getting "DVI No Signal" and after rebooting it, it begins to display but then I get a "Overclocking Failed" press f2 to change settings. Oddly enough I have not done any overclocking. Other than XMP profile for ram. Anyways, I just exit the bios and then it loads up just fine. But why am I getting "Overclocking Failed"? I thought it could be the ram not fully in place but system reads 32gb. I've never run into this problem. Any help?


time to clear CMOS, pull the motherboard battery, unplug from the wall & let it sit for 30 minutes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Ordered black Primochill ridged tubing for this build, black on black except the
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> memory will be blue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm thinking about water cooling the memory then it will be black that's if I can figure out a way to remove the G.Skill factory heat spreader...


there is a chance that those memory sticks are single sided. Not sure how that affects watercooling them though.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> There is a chance that those memory sticks are single sided. Not sure how that affects watercooling them though.


They are 8GB sticks so pretty sure they are double sided. Right now I'm just thinking about it, thing is removing the heat spreaders might void warranty not to mention it's going to cost a couple hundred bucks to water cool 8 sticks of ram so that's why I'm undecided at this point...








Anyone ever removed the heat spreaders from G.Skill memory?

Edit: Just googled this,

*Instructions on removing heat spreader*
1. Remove the stickers on the G.Skill memory modules.
2. Lay the RAM modules on a flat, nonconductive surface such as a piece of cardboard.
3. Turn on your hair dryer and set it to high heat. Apply the heat source to the heatsink for several minutes, until it becomes hot to the touch.
4. Pick up the RAM and hold it using a hot pad. If possible, get a helper to hold the RAM.
5. Hold the fishing line in your hands so it is taut between your thumb and fingers. Slide the line under the bottom of one side of the heat spreader using a sawing motion. Continue sawing until you reach the top of the heat spreader. Repeat for the other side.
6. Warranty Void, lol


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Ordered black Primochill ridged tubing for this build, black on black except the memory will be blue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm thinking about water cooling the memory then it will be black that's if I can figure out a way to remove the G.Skill factory heat spreader...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I searched a lot trying to find a build with opaque black acrylic tubing,.. but couldn't find anything... so I was a little hesitant to try it. I'm really happy I went with black acrylic tubing... and it looks great with the RIV BE.


----------



## navynuke499

just got mine today, very sexy.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> They are 8GB sticks so pretty sure they are double sided. Right now I'm just thinking about it, thing is removing the heat spreaders might void warranty not to mention it's going to cost a couple hundred bucks to water cool 8 sticks of ram so that's why I'm undecided at this point...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ever removed the heat spreaders from G.Skill memory?
> 
> Edit: Just googled this,
> 
> *Instructions on removing heat spreader*
> 1. Remove the stickers on the G.Skill memory modules.
> 2. Lay the RAM modules on a flat, nonconductive surface such as a piece of cardboard.
> 3. Turn on your hair dryer and set it to high heat. Apply the heat source to the heatsink for several minutes, until it becomes hot to the touch.
> 4. Pick up the RAM and hold it using a hot pad. If possible, get a helper to hold the RAM.
> 5. Hold the fishing line in your hands so it is taut between your thumb and fingers. Slide the line under the bottom of one side of the heat spreader using a sawing motion. Continue sawing until you reach the top of the heat spreader. Repeat for the other side.
> 6. *Warranty Void*, lol


Yeah, see... Not gonna happen with mine. It's not all that serious for me to water cool my sticks just for the "bling effect" while simultaneously voiding my warranty, so I'll just leave them be. At best, I may paint the heatsink railing black instead of the machined silver it comes in. If they were the regular Dominators, then fine, I'd water cool them since they're not all that expensive... Not with my platinum's.

Don't get me wrong though, I'm all for seeing how yours turns out... I mean who knows, if they look good enough, I may revisit this inner conflict again and jump on the same bandwagon at some point.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I searched a lot trying to find a build with opaque black acrylic tubing,.. but couldn't find anything... so I was a little hesitant to try it. I'm really happy I went with black acrylic tubing... and it looks great with the RIV BE.


Have any picture's I'd like to see it.
Edit: I found them http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/3570#post_21499522
That looks pretty sharp hopefully mine turns out as good









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Yeah, see... Not gonna happen with mine. It's not all that serious for me to water cool my sticks just for the "bling effect" while simultaneously voiding my warranty, so I'll just leave them be. At best, I may paint the heatsink railing black instead of the machined silver it comes in. If they were the regular Dominators, then fine, I'd water cool them since they're not all that expensive... Not with my platinum's.
> 
> Don't get me wrong though, I'm all for seeing how yours turns out... I mean who knows, if they look good enough, I may revisit this inner conflict again and jump on the same bandwagon at some point.


Besides looking cool yeah I'm not out to void mine either, lol
I know there isn't that much of a performance gain from water cooling ram besides lasting longer and removing extra heat from the case which is always a good thing. I'm sure higher frequency ram puts off more heat especially when gaming or benching .


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Have any picture's I'd like to see it


Yah... my build thread in my sig.









But to make easier...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Besides looking cool yeah I'm not out to void mine either, lol
> I know there isn't that much of a performance gain from water cooling ram besides lasting longer and removing extra heat from the case which is always a good thing. I'm sure higher frequency ram puts off more heat especially when gaming or benching .


Good point... Maybe after a year (or less), I'll see how I feel about adding them. For now though, my main concern is how well these higher frequency sticks perform. Sure, optimal cooling goes hand in hand with performance, but if there isn't much of a performance gain as a direct result of those blocks, then I'll leave well enough alone.


----------



## King4x4

Here is a recent build I completed for a client using a rivbe.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SirWaWa*
> 
> I'll just leave this here for the RoG enthusiasts
> http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/asus_rog_front_base.html
> 
> 
> 
> so... they re-built the remote control, and are giving it a new name & making it massive? That's.... cool... I think i'll stick to my Aquaero 6 & bios overclocking.
Click to expand...

hahaha this made me laugh , and agreed
although i do like the oc panel and i will be using it, i already know how to make an extension for it, waiting till i move it to its new case
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SirWaWa*
> 
> I'll just leave this here for the RoG enthusiasts
> http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/asus_rog_front_base.html
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if it has a learning curve tailored to your specifications, or built-in memory where it memorizes your custom OC adjustments and patterns. For the amount that ASUS charges for its motherboards, you'd think they'd put a little more thought into this redundant and unecessary gizmo... Because you know it's going to be in the $200-$350 range, just for the exclusivity of owning one... Oh, and USB 2.0?
Click to expand...

usb 2.0 as it ( the oc panel ) uses a header to do its thing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spock121*
> 
> How difficult would it be to replace the red LEDs on this board? I'm thinking of using it for a project (ROG goes pink)


that would depend on your soldering skillz
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> There is a chance that those memory sticks are single sided. Not sure how that affects watercooling them though.
> 
> 
> 
> They are 8GB sticks so pretty sure they are double sided. Right now I'm just thinking about it, thing is removing the heat spreaders might void warranty not to mention it's going to cost a couple hundred bucks to water cool 8 sticks of ram so that's why I'm undecided at this point...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ever removed the heat spreaders from G.Skill memory?
> 
> Edit: Just googled this,
> 
> *Instructions on removing heat spreader*
> 1. Remove the stickers on the G.Skill memory modules.
> 2. Lay the RAM modules on a flat, nonconductive surface such as a piece of cardboard.
> 3. Turn on your hair dryer and set it to high heat. Apply the heat source to the heatsink for several minutes, until it becomes hot to the touch.
> 4. Pick up the RAM and hold it using a hot pad. If possible, get a helper to hold the RAM.
> 5. Hold the fishing line in your hands so it is taut between your thumb and fingers. Slide the line under the bottom of one side of the heat spreader using a sawing motion. Continue sawing until you reach the top of the heat spreader. Repeat for the other side.
> 6. Warranty Void, lol
Click to expand...

yea i was gonna tell you to heat them up then use fishing line lol friend of mine skipped the heat up part and pulled a chip off
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Here is a recent build I completed for a client using a rivbe.


wow that is really clean !


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> They are 8GB sticks so pretty sure they are double sided. Right now I'm just thinking about it, thing is removing the heat spreaders might void warranty not to mention it's going to cost a couple hundred bucks to water cool 8 sticks of ram so that's why I'm undecided at this point...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ever removed the heat spreaders from G.Skill memory?
> 
> Edit: Just googled this,
> 
> *Instructions on removing heat spreader*
> 1. Remove the stickers on the G.Skill memory modules.
> 2. Lay the RAM modules on a flat, nonconductive surface such as a piece of cardboard.
> 3. Turn on your hair dryer and set it to high heat. Apply the heat source to the heatsink for several minutes, until it becomes hot to the touch.
> 4. Pick up the RAM and hold it using a hot pad. If possible, get a helper to hold the RAM.
> 5. Hold the fishing line in your hands so it is taut between your thumb and fingers. Slide the line under the bottom of one side of the heat spreader using a sawing motion. Continue sawing until you reach the top of the heat spreader. Repeat for the other side.
> 6. Warranty Void, lol


Just remember that memory cooling is by far the most aesthetic based thing you can do in your build. IT also is by far the most restrictive block you can install. So, if you are not planning to enter into the hardcore memory overclocking club, it may not be worth it... unless you just want it *because it looks badass.*


----------



## King4x4

If it's for a cient it's clean.

If it's for me.... Cabling Disaster!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> They are 8GB sticks so pretty sure they are double sided. Right now I'm just thinking about it, thing is removing the heat spreaders might void warranty not to mention it's going to cost a couple hundred bucks to water cool 8 sticks of ram so that's why I'm undecided at this point...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ever removed the heat spreaders from G.Skill memory?
> 
> Edit: Just googled this,
> 
> *Instructions on removing heat spreader*
> 1. Remove the stickers on the G.Skill memory modules.
> 2. Lay the RAM modules on a flat, nonconductive surface such as a piece of cardboard.
> 3. Turn on your hair dryer and set it to high heat. Apply the heat source to the heatsink for several minutes, until it becomes hot to the touch.
> 4. Pick up the RAM and hold it using a hot pad. If possible, get a helper to hold the RAM.
> 5. Hold the fishing line in your hands so it is taut between your thumb and fingers. Slide the line under the bottom of one side of the heat spreader using a sawing motion. Continue sawing until you reach the top of the heat spreader. Repeat for the other side.
> 6. Warranty Void, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just remember that memory cooling is by far the most aesthetic based thing you can do in your build. IT also is by far the most restrictive block you can install. So, if you are not planning to enter into the hardcore memory overclocking club, it may not be worth it... unless you just want it *because it looks badass.*
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> They are 8GB sticks so pretty sure they are double sided. Right now I'm just thinking about it, thing is removing the heat spreaders might void warranty not to mention it's going to cost a couple hundred bucks to water cool 8 sticks of ram so that's why I'm undecided at this point...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ever removed the heat spreaders from G.Skill memory?
> 
> Edit: Just googled this,
> 
> *Instructions on removing heat spreader*
> 1. Remove the stickers on the G.Skill memory modules.
> 2. Lay the RAM modules on a flat, nonconductive surface such as a piece of cardboard.
> 3. Turn on your hair dryer and set it to high heat. Apply the heat source to the heatsink for several minutes, until it becomes hot to the touch.
> 4. Pick up the RAM and hold it using a hot pad. If possible, get a helper to hold the RAM.
> 5. Hold the fishing line in your hands so it is taut between your thumb and fingers. Slide the line under the bottom of one side of the heat spreader using a sawing motion. Continue sawing until you reach the top of the heat spreader. Repeat for the other side.
> 6. Warranty Void, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just remember that memory cooling is by far the most aesthetic based thing you can do in your build. *IT also is by far the most restrictive block you can install*. So, if you are not planning to enter into the hardcore memory overclocking club, it may not be worth it... unless you just want it *because it looks badass.*
Click to expand...

Where do you get this info from?

By and large, with no internal fins or pins, it's just a rather open cavity with almost zilch restriction compared to CPU or GPU blocks.

I agree that it is 99% aesthetic over function, but if you like the look, there's no reason not to go with it for fear of restricting the loop.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

[redacted] no solid info. Just removed some of my ignorance towards the topic. For some reason I always thought the water was actually going into the "monarch" heat spreader mounts, but I see that isn't actually the case..
assumptions & stuff.









It definitely looks badass.









I'm trying to figure out if I can fit the VRM channel into my case with the 110mm of 60mm rad & p/p in the 900D... I don't think it's going to work out.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> There is a chance that those memory sticks are single sided. Not sure how that affects watercooling them though.
> 
> 
> 
> They are 8GB sticks so pretty sure they are double sided. Right now I'm just thinking about it, thing is removing the heat spreaders might void warranty not to mention it's going to cost a couple hundred bucks to water cool 8 sticks of ram so that's why I'm undecided at this point...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ever removed the heat spreaders from G.Skill memory?
> 
> Edit: Just googled this,
> 
> *Instructions on removing heat spreader*
> 1. Remove the stickers on the G.Skill memory modules.
> 2. Lay the RAM modules on a flat, nonconductive surface such as a piece of cardboard.
> 3. Turn on your hair dryer and set it to high heat. Apply the heat source to the heatsink for several minutes, until it becomes hot to the touch.
> 4. Pick up the RAM and hold it using a hot pad. If possible, get a helper to hold the RAM.
> 5. Hold the fishing line in your hands so it is taut between your thumb and fingers. Slide the line under the bottom of one side of the heat spreader using a sawing motion. Continue sawing until you reach the top of the heat spreader. Repeat for the other side.
> 6. Warranty Void, lol
Click to expand...

I do, I removed the heat spreaders from G.Skill 3000MHz (from 8 sticks). Take your time and you should wait at less 24 hours for the part of the 'watch' on my 



2014 Highest-End Gaming Computing Desktop _by HumanSlinky_







Follow Me and you will never lost a warranty, 32GB 3000MHz G.Skill cost at less $2,800.


----------



## skupples

I like the "remove the sticker" part... that's the step that 100% voids warranty. It isn't completely out of the realm of possibility to rebuild the module & send it back, but w/o sticker the warranty is 100% gone.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I do, I removed the heat spreaders from G.Skill 3000MHz (from 8 sticks). Take your time and you should wait at less 24 hours for the part of the 'watch' on my
> 
> 
> 
> [...]


What are you dunking that ram in? Water? Alcohol? Is the soaking what you're saying 'you should wait at less 24 hours' to do?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I do, I removed the heat spreaders from G.Skill 3000MHz (from 8 sticks). Take your time and you should wait at less 24 hours for the part of the 'watch' on my
> 
> 
> 
> [...]
> 
> 
> 
> What are you dunking that ram in? Water? Alcohol? Is the soaking what you're saying 'you should wait at less 24 hours' to do?
Click to expand...









3rd question.. positive.


Like this should look your neked G.Skill ram... with 8 chips







Good Luck
To remove the heat spreaders from Dominator Platinum Follow Me


----------



## kpoeticg

I received my 4x8GB CL10 Trident X Kit in the mail yesterday. The blister package was cut open down the side and when i took the dimms out, one of the modules just fell apart. I went to put it back together and the screw was completely stripped on the philips head side. I'm RMA'ing them for another set. Whoever sent em back to NE didn't even have the knowledge to put em back together properly so i'm scurred of whatever else he/she "attempted" to do with them.

The memory modules are only on one side tho, and the thermal paste/adhesive covers the other side sticking it to the heatspreader. Also it uses sammy memory in case everybody didn't already know that.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Those trident x heat spreaders are causing me problems, might remove them altogether.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those trident x heat spreaders are causing me problems, might remove them altogether.


How so? ...They look like they fit just fine to me.


----------



## wermad

I can safely say the SupremeFX is a bit inferior to the Core3d onboards like the Sniper5 (et al) and worse after putting in a SB Z card







. Definitely better then the Sniper board and a huge leap ahead of the Supreme. In terms of generic standard onboard, the SupremeFX is a step in the right direction but its nothing like the core3d onboard and will never touch the discrete card (like the Z SB1500 I have now). Now waiting on the pcie 1x ribbon cable so I can put the fourth gpu back in


----------



## King4x4

Welcome to the club of high end sound cards!

Now go buy yourself a decent headset for an awesome eargasm everytime you play!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Welcome to the club of high end sound cards!
> 
> Now go buy yourself a decent headset for an awesome eargasm everytime you play!


All the best ones are over $100. I'm good w/ my cheap Sennheisers







. I just blasted my ears. Need to tweak the mixer a bit to get it right. Now waiting to see how I'm going to connect the SB w/ the pcie ribbon cable. These Ltg blocks are very wide. I lost my ***p but I get it back w/ the SB card.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can safely say the SupremeFX is a bit inferior to the Core3d onboards like the Sniper5 (et al) and worse after putting in a SB Z card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Definitely better then the Sniper board and a huge leap ahead of the Supreme. In terms of generic standard onboard, the SupremeFX is a step in the right direction but its nothing like the core3d onboard and will never touch the discrete card (like the Z SB1500 I have now). Now waiting on the pcie 1x ribbon cable so I can put the fourth gpu back in


Regarding cooling yours cpu, nothing even comes close to Cuplex Kryos XT .925 Silver Ed. It features 1911 silver pins, almost each one of them in unique geometry. But 1 again, you should know... I am just an artist not a technician










Slinky Supercomputer, Front Panel


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> How so? ...They look like they fit just fine to me.


Tubing from the Rad won't come straight down, it collides with the tall heatsink.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those trident x heat spreaders are causing me problems, might remove them altogether.


EK should provide same chewing Gum to cover that holes if make you removing the ROG light








Very nice start, I will use parallel cooling for the titans. later on when the time is coming please let me know how muck you like bending acrylic tubing from Primochill


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I received my 4x8GB CL10 Trident X Kit in the mail yesterday. The blister package was cut open down the side and when i took the dimms out, one of the modules just fell apart. I went to put it back together and the screw was completely stripped on the philips head side. I'm RMA'ing them for another set. Whoever sent em back to NE didn't even have the knowledge to put em back together properly so i'm scurred of whatever else he/she "attempted" to do with them.
> 
> The memory modules are only on one side tho, and the thermal paste/adhesive covers the other side sticking it to the heatspreader. Also it uses sammy memory in case everybody didn't already know that.


I am puzzled, I thought the 8GB CL10 Trident X chips are from Samsung.









Thank you that you have to dismantle heatspreader.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Regarding cooling yours cpu, nothing even comes close to Cuplex Kryos XT .925 Silver Ed. It features 1911 silver pins, almost each one of them in unique geometry. But 1 again, you should know... I am just an artist not a technician
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slinky Supercomputer, Front Panel


The Cuplex Kryos is a great Block, but AFAIK it's outperformed by both the EK Supremacy and the Koolance 380

Also, when using a silver block, you need to keep in mind that it's made out of silver and will function the same as a kill coil. So if you use it with premix coolant or Mayhem's concentrate it could cause big problems in your loop. That's my understanding anyway...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I received my 4x8GB CL10 Trident X Kit in the mail yesterday. The blister package was cut open down the side and when i took the dimms out, one of the modules just fell apart. I went to put it back together and the screw was completely stripped on the philips head side. I'm RMA'ing them for another set. Whoever sent em back to NE didn't even have the knowledge to put em back together properly so i'm scurred of whatever else he/she "attempted" to do with them.
> 
> 
> 
> The memory modules are only on one side tho, and the thermal paste/adhesive covers the other side sticking it to the heatspreader. *Also it uses sammy memory in case everybody didn't already know that. *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am puzzled, I thought the 8GB CL10 Trident X chips are from Samsung.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you that you have to dismantle heatspreader.
Click to expand...

Sammy = Samsung









Also, i didn't dismantle the heatspreader. Somebody else did and sent it back to Newegg who then sold it to me. When i opened the package, that one dimm literally just fell apart into those 3 pieces. I'm not really stressing the heatspreader in particular because i'm gonna be watercooling my ram anyway just for aesthetics. I'm worried what else was done to it by some1 who tried to remove the heatspreader and couldn't even put it back together...


----------



## Raghar

Have you at least tested it?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Tubing from the Rad won't come straight down, it collides with the tall heatsink.


Look at it from a positive perspective... It's a way to test your acrylic bending skills.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> just got mine today, very sexy.


Grats and welcome!!!! What ship are you on?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Welcome to the club of high end sound cards!
> 
> Now go buy yourself a decent headset for an awesome eargasm everytime you play!


I need to head over to the Sound Forums and decide on a good headset, I hate to much base but I do love a good base/treble balance, Clarity is key, not muffled.


----------



## erayser

Now you guys are making me think of putting my Recon3D THX Fatal1ty sound card in. The only thing I hate is the bright red LED glowing on the bottom. I have a spare white LED when I wired up my EK plexi blocks... so this is tempting.


----------



## LunaP

REALLY hoping I didn't mess up my x16 slot









Won't find out till tonight after work. Leak test is sat though.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Have you at least tested it?


No. The last things i needed to finally power up my BE were CPU, GPU, & RAM. I ordered them all from Newegg this weekend. Then i realized that since i'm in the middle of my build and haven't done any plumbing yet, i still wouldn't be able to power it on without ordering some fittings, tubing, & coolant. So i ordered a bunch of stuff like that from PPC the next day so i could put together a temporary loop to test with. I placed my NE order on Saturday and received it Monday. I placed my PPC order on Sunday (or Saturday) and it's being delivered tomorrow.

So i couldn't test it. No matter what, tomorrow woulda been the earliest i could power on my board. But now the rams on it's way back to NE.

I just had a bad feeling. The blister pack was cut open down the side b4 i got it, then i removed the 4 dimms and the last one fell apart into 3 pieces before i even got it outta the package. One of the heatspreader screws was so stripped at the head that i didn't have a single phillips, hex, allen, or torx bit in my entire collection that could get it out. It was an obvious failed mod job. And it bothered me how easy it was to put back together by removing the other screw and yet the person who returned it couldn't even figure that out. I didn't want that persons sloppy seconds =\


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> REALLY hoping I didn't mess up my x16 slot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Won't find out till tonight after work. Leak test is sat though.


what happened to that PCIE slot?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Now you guys are making me think of putting my Recon3D THX Fatal1ty sound card in. The only thing I hate is the bright red LED glowing on the bottom. I have a spare white LED when I wired up my EK plexi blocks... so this is tempting.


Do it! Its definitely a great upgrade. I went w/ the Core3D processor since it was the one I had on previous boards and loved it. Hehe, blasting this morning my trusty old speakers, hope the neighbors don't mind







.


----------



## boldenc

Anyone using Noctua NH-U14S? Is there clearance issue with the first PCI-E slot ?


----------



## morper

How did you guys remove the pipe from the original heatsink to be able to keep the one covering the I/O area while watercooling the motherboard?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morper*
> 
> How did you guys remove the pipe from the original heatsink to be able to keep the one covering the I/O area while watercooling the motherboard?


Darlene (IT Diva) figured out a way to heat it up and pull it out ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I was able to successfully remove the I/O heatsink from the heatpipe from the mosfet block!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea I mentioned a while back with using quick heat and expanding the aluminum from the pipe and softening the thermal bonding agent worked a treat.
> 
> About 10 minutes heating the aluminum sink with a propane torch, and the thermal glue started to melt and became visible, and a couple more minutes and the pipe would rotate freely in the sink and slide out with a little twisting motion as I pulled.
> 
> The white powdery stuff is the thermal glue, it'll dust off once it's all cooled.
> 
> The heat left no visible discolorations or blemishes on the heatsink, so it's ready to reinstall when cool.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: IMAGES


But it's not without some risks ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I tried torching it, but the pipe still didn't make it. It's very weak and got damaged to the point where it broke off before that welding paste.


Either way I'm pretty sure you are voiding the warranty to get it out. If I do decide to put my board underwater (been eyeballin' the XSPC RIVB3 set) I might try to leave the heatpipe attached and just bent up out of the way where it's hidden behind my top rad, or I might just cut the heatpipe off. I tried putting in a 'Wanted' add for the heatsink & heatpipe attached in the Marketplace hoping someone who added blocks to their board but didn't keep the I/O cover might be willing to part with theirs, but no luck with that so far.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morper*
> 
> How did you guys remove the pipe from the original heatsink to be able to keep the one covering the I/O area while watercooling the motherboard?


I used some "old lady charm" and a blow torch to expand the I/O heatsink from the pipe and pull it out . .

I think I'm the only one so far that's been successful at separating them without any damage.

Darlene


----------



## ProfeZZor X

This wait is insane... I ordered my chip and RAM two full days after I ordered my R4BE last week, and I already received the chip and RAM 15 minutes ago. It just better arrive before my PPCs order gets here early next week, or I'm gonna be majorly pissed.

On a side note, I do have to say that these Dominator Platinum sticks are absolutely gorgeous in person... And heavy.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boldenc*
> 
> Anyone using Noctua NH-U14S? Is there clearance issue with the first PCI-E slot ?


I have NH-U14S, but I don't have board yet. From what I measured by scaling photos of noctua and MB, there is deffinitely problem with first slot clearance when you will use it vertically. So when your case is optimized for horizontal airflow, you will not be able to use first slot. Vertical airflow should be fine. (Depends on RAM heights.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> This wait is insane... I ordered my chip and RAM two full days after I ordered my R4BE last week, and I already received the chip and RAM 15 minutes ago. It just better arrive before my PPCs order gets here early next week, or I'm gonna be majorly pissed.


My CPU is here from early December. I still don't have clue when a MB would arrive into the country.


----------



## xarot

Does the OC panel use PWM to change the fan speed from the front panel button? I tried plugging in my 3-pin fans to the OC panel, and always at full speed.


----------



## morper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I used some "old lady charm" and a blow torch to expand the I/O heatsink from the pipe and pull it out . .
> 
> I think I'm the only one so far that's been successful at separating them without any damage.
> 
> Darlene


Impressive, Darlene! It takes a ladys wit to figure something like that out!









Was hoping to find a away to do it without damaging anything. Going to try it out tomorrow









Morgan


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Does the OC panel use PWM to change the fan speed from the front panel button? I tried plugging in my 3-pin fans to the OC panel, and always at full speed.


The fact that they're 4Pin headers would make me say yes. But Asus can be tricky with that 4Pin PWM Marketing sometimes....

I've never heard of a PWM header on any hardware that can't VC as well... Especially from an accessory that's designed to overvolt your GPU's. I can't see there being a problem VC'ing a few fans...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I used some "old lady charm" and a blow torch to expand the I/O heatsink from the pipe and pull it out . .
> 
> I think I'm the only one so far that's been successful at separating them without any damage.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Impressive, Darlene! It takes a ladys wit to figure something like that out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was hoping to find a away to do it without damaging anything. Going to try it out tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Morgan
Click to expand...

Put a lot of heat on the I/O heatsink for about 10 minutes, I used a big propane torch, or until you see the thermal cement in the I/O heatsink melt and flow out on the pipe before you twist or pull on it.

Keep an eye in the slot where the pipe runs into the heatsink to look for the thermal glue melt.

The heat pipe is really thin and easy to destroy, so don't fatigue it by twisting on it too soon or handling the assembly roughly . . . .

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Darlene, do you think it would be possible to accomplish with a Heatgun or Reflow Station Gun or Benzomatic Butane Torch? I don't have access to a Propane gun and i'd like to get that mod out of the way sometime soon myself.


----------



## morper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Put a lot of heat on the I/O heatsink for about 10 minutes, I used a big propane torch, or until you see the thermal cement in the I/O heatsink melt and flow out on the pipe before you twist or pull on it.
> 
> Keep an eye in the slot where the pipe runs into the heatsink to look for the thermal glue melt.
> 
> The heat pipe is really thin and easy to destroy, so don't fatigue it by twisting on it too soon or handling the assembly roughly . . . .
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for detailing it, will post here when I´ve tried it out!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Darlene, do you think it would be possible to accomplish with a Heatgun or Reflow Station Gun or Benzomatic Butane Torch? I don't have access to a Propane gun and i'd like to get that mod out of the way sometime soon myself.


You mean one of those little mini butane refillable portable torch things . . .

If so, not a chance in . . . Well, you know.

You could try the heatgun, but I really really really doubt it,

I think Jesus will divine you the Powerball numbers first









Don't forget to wear decent gloves, I'd guess the temps to be over 500F for sure before the thermal bond weakens.

Darlene

I'd really like to see some more folks be successful with this, so that it increases the knowledge base for the community.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You mean one of those little mini butane refillable portable torch things . . .
> 
> If so, not a chance in . . . Well, you know.
> 
> You could try the heatgun, but I really really really doubt it,
> 
> I think Jesus will divine you the Powerball numbers first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget to wear decent gloves, I'd guess the temps to be over 500F for sure before the thermal bond weakens.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> I'd really like to see some more folks be successful with this, so that it increases the knowledge base for the community.


Do you think there's any chance that an oven could be used? Like 30min @ 450F / 230C ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You mean one of those little mini butane refillable portable torch things . . .
> 
> If so, not a chance in . . . Well, you know.
> 
> You could try the heatgun, but I really really really doubt it,
> 
> I think Jesus will divine you the Powerball numbers first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget to wear decent gloves, I'd guess the temps to be over 500F for sure before the thermal bond weakens.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> I'd really like to see some more folks be successful with this, so that it increases the knowledge base for the community.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think there's any chance that an oven could be used? Like 30min @ 450F / 230C ?
Click to expand...

Man, you'd be on your own there . . .

The principle of using heat to expand one metal away from another is that the one you're trying to expand . . expands faster the other one and /or that you can get the one you want to expand . . hotter faster than the other one.

If you put it all in an oven, then it all most likely expands together with no net gain.

By heating just the I/O heatsink, the mosfet heatsink helps keep the heatpipe cooler as the big heatsink heats and expands.

This is all you'd need, and it's only $15:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-UL100-Basic-Propane-Torch-Kit-334458/203665003#


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You mean one of those little mini butane refillable portable torch things . . .
> 
> If so, not a chance in . . . Well, you know.
> 
> You could try the heatgun, but I really really really doubt it,
> 
> I think Jesus will divine you the Powerball numbers first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget to wear decent gloves, I'd guess the temps to be over 500F for sure before the thermal bond weakens.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> I'd really like to see some more folks be successful with this, so that it increases the knowledge base for the community.


Yeah, i didn't think the Benzomatic would be able to do the job. Just listing my resources









My WEP 858D+ goes up to 450C and my Wagner Heat Gun goes to 1350F

Do you think i could expect good results with some patience? And obviously safety precautions


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If so, not a chance in . . . Well, you know.
> 
> You could try the heatgun, but I really really really doubt it,
> 
> I think Jesus will divine you the Powerball numbers first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget to wear decent gloves, I'd guess the temps to be over 500F for sure before the thermal bond weakens.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> I'd really like to see some more folks be successful with this, so that it increases the knowledge base for the community.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, i didn't think the Benzomatic would be able to do the job. Just listing my resources
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My WEP 858D+ goes up to 450C and my Wagner Heat Gun goes to 1350F
> Do you think i could expect good results with some patience? And obviously safety precautions
Click to expand...

Propane flame temp is 3600F at the hottest part, so even with a lot of mass to dissipate the heat, you can achieve some hi heat levels.

I don't think it can hurt to try the heatgun, it may be a welcome surprise, but I wouldn't get my hopes up.

D.


----------



## kpoeticg

=\

Yeah, i wasn't trying to compare Propane to a heatgun. You just understand the science behind it alot better than i do (which would be zilch). That's why i asked you =)


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> EK should provide same chewing Gum to cover that holes if make you removing the ROG light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice start, I will use parallel cooling for the titans. later on when the time is coming please let me know how muck you like bending acrylic tubing from Primochill


Not too bad, with a heat gun and hardline mandrel kit, the bends come out pretty good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Look at it from a positive perspective... It's a way to test your acrylic bending skills.


That's the thing, my skills are at its infant stage. First time bending acrylic.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Don't forget to wear decent gloves, I'd guess the temps to be over 500F for sure before the thermal bond weakens.


Too bad you didn't filmed it. It might be funny video.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Don't forget to wear decent gloves, I'd guess the temps to be over 500F for sure before the thermal bond weakens.
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad you didn't filmed it. It might be funny video.
Click to expand...

Trust me, I did NOT forget the gloves.

I learned that lesson years ago bending PVC conduit, which is a lot less heat required than this was.

I'm not like this little guy . . . .


----------



## kpoeticg

Hrmmm, i wonder if it would be a good idea to dbl fist my Wagner and 858D. Heating up both heatsinks should help it reach the needed temp alot quicker and stop the heatpipe from cooling it off at all. I think...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hrmmm, i wonder if it would be a good idea to dbl fist my Wagner and 858D. Heating up both heatsinks should help it reach the needed temp alot quicker and stop the heatpipe from cooling it off at all. I think...


Noooooo . . .

You're missing the science here.

Use both to heat the bigh heatsink and keep the little mosfet sink cool, maybe a big wet towel, to help keep the pipe cooler . . .

You're trying to have the big heatsink expand from being heated, so that the hole the heatpipe is in expands, (becomes larger in diameter) and releases it's grip on the heatpipe, as well as melting/softening the thermal bonding cement, so you can work the heatpipe back out of its hole.

D.


----------



## kpoeticg

Derp









That's why i share my brilliant ideas with the class before i try them


----------



## wermad

To sum up Dar's info: heat the black part, don't or avoid heating the metal shiny pipe. Do it right, the black thing expands and releases the shiny pipe from its death-grip


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Trust me, I did NOT forget the gloves.
> 
> I learned that lesson years ago bending PVC conduit, which is a lot less heat required than this was.


I learned my lesson when I tried to place a LED diode into molex in the wrong way just to see what happens. It was really hot afterward and didn't worked even after turning right way. I also learned the lesson don't touch these wires by naked fingers, they might be just 12 V, but they are 20 A. Fuse activated quickly enough, thus no burn marks.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just remember that memory cooling is by far the most aesthetic based thing you can do in your build. IT also is by far the most restrictive block you can install. So, if you are not planning to enter into the hardcore memory overclocking club, it may not be worth it... unless you just want it *because it looks badass.*


Obviously you don't know much about overclocking memory. I would say you're in the majority of users here that don't go past rated memory voltage. In that case, I agree. However, if you do overclock your memory, there's a vast difference between the heat that a rated 1.5 or 1.65v stick puts off at 1.85v. and cooling capability that ram waterblocks provide. There is a reason that the extreme memory profiles on this mobo exist, as well, as water cooling modules and LN2 pots for ram.


----------



## Raghar

RAM cooling for DDR3 is interesting from 1.7+ V. I personally use air cooling for my curent PC, and cool VRM, CPU, and RAM with one fan:










I personally went with LoVo route. When it will work, it will be fine, and it provides nice headroom. Personally I'd be more interested in high density LoVo chips with large heatsinks, than a water cooling. For 24/7 they peak at voltages and frequencies which doesn't need water cooling, and decent heatsink and a reasonable airflow might be enough. For peak speeds? Probably chiller, but that depends on how they like sub zero temperatures.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> RAM cooling for DDR3 is interesting from 1.7+ V. I personally use air cooling for my curent PC, and cool VRM, CPU, and RAM with one fan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally went with LoVo route. When it will work, it will be fine, and it provides nice headroom. Personally I'd be more interested in high density LoVo chips with large heatsinks, than a water cooling. For 24/7 they peak at voltages and frequencies which doesn't need water cooling, and decent heatsink and a reasonable airflow might be enough. For peak speeds? Probably chiller, but that depends on how they like sub zero temperatures.


I think fans are a great alternative to waterblocks for ram for "normal" benching. I've had no problems. Waterblocks do come in handy for a poormans chiller ( rad in a ice bucket) for short runs. I think a lot of people get caught up in epeen and bling factor. Most of these things are around because of overclocking necessity. Some people use gentle typhoons and some people use deltas!


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I think fans are a great alternative to waterblocks for ram for "normal" benching. I've had no problems. Waterblocks do come in handy for a poormans chiller ( rad in a ice bucket) for short runs. I think a lot of people get caught up in epeen and bling factor. Most of these things are around because of overclocking necessity. Some people use gentle typhoons and some people use deltas!


I can't say anything since I have mt ram watercooled originally for aestistics when I bought them after I put them in I pumped the volts to almost 1.7 and oc my ram. So I guess it worked out. To each his own though everyone has there own personal preference but what was another $100 on the blocks to the couple grand I had already forked out in cooling.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Regarding cooling yours cpu, nothing even comes close to Cuplex Kryos XT .925 Silver Ed. It features 1911 silver pins, almost each one of them in unique geometry. But 1 again, you should know... I am just an artist not a technician
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slinky Supercomputer, Front Panel


Saw your beasty gpu setup on ebay. You planning for maxwell or just going w/ Hawaii? Sad to see that epic gpu setup go


----------



## Mega Man

@ it diva i had a good laugh in another thread the seemingly young people ( it is the way they talk/act ) were going on and on about how "woman dont know anything about computers and dont care as long as it runs what they want" it made me think of you and all the knowledge i have seen from you, and that was my lol, most guys imo assume way way too much about woman, when 95 % of men dont know crap about pcs

eventually i will buy the block, just waiting another week or so and i will do the same as you, i have a few torches as i am a hvac tech, i figure if my map gas torch wont cut it my oxy/acetylene + rosebud would work wonders


----------



## Akadaka

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26523

this just came in at pccasegear if any aussies are here.


----------



## Dantrax

I set 44 for all cores on my 4930k & got 1.424 volts. So I manually put in 1.295V & I'm running at 1.312V. I'm also running 32GB of Kingston Beast ram at 2400MHz & 1.65V with 11,13,13,32,1t timings.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Obviously you don't know much about overclocking memory. I would say you're in the majority of users here that don't go past rated memory voltage. In that case, I agree. However, if you do overclock your memory, there's a vast difference between the heat that a rated 1.5 or 1.65v stick puts off at 1.85v. and cooling capability that ram waterblocks provide. There is a reason that the extreme memory profiles on this mobo exist, as well, as water cooling modules and LN2 pots for ram.


I did point out doing it for temps if one were to jump into heavy memory clocking... It's the same as anything else. More speed, more voltage, more cooling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I received my 4x8GB CL10 Trident X Kit in the mail yesterday. The blister package was cut open down the side and when i took the dimms out, one of the modules just fell apart. I went to put it back together and the screw was completely stripped on the philips head side. I'm RMA'ing them for another set. Whoever sent em back to NE didn't even have the knowledge to put em back together properly so i'm scurred of whatever else he/she "attempted" to do with them.
> 
> The memory modules are only on one side tho, and the thermal paste/adhesive covers the other side sticking it to the heatspreader. Also it uses sammy memory in case everybody didn't already know that.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


In my experience, those little teeny tiny black screws do next to nothing to hold the modules together. One of my sticks came from the factory with both screws stripped, & the red top still slid right off. I then removed the rest of them the same way. So, from what I can tell it's not doing much. It doesn't screw into the black heat spreaders or anything.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Yep, got rid of the Trident X heat sinks.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> In my experience, those little teeny tiny black screws do next to nothing to hold the modules together. One of my sticks came from the factory with both screws stripped, & the red top still slid right off. I then removed the rest of them the same way. So, from what I can tell it's not doing much. It doesn't screw into the black heat spreaders or anything.


I know. The black screws are just for the red heatspreaders. Yet when i took the module out of the package, the red heatspreader, black heatspreader, and ram module completely disassembled. You can see in the pics that the black heatspreaders off. It came like that. Also, i don't like the fact that i woulda had to drill that screw out probly voiding the warranty just to use them. I put them back together but the red heatspreader would still jerk back and forth because of the stripped screw.

The heatspreaders aren't the issue for me. It's that somebody did a hackjob on them, the memory modules were exposed, and that person felt the need to send them back for a new kit. The Black Heatspreader removed from the memory + the person that separated them deciding for some reason that he didn't want the kit anymore = me not wanting to be the sucker that gets them =P

Whether there's actually damage, or they're just bad clockers, just felt like i was getting somebody else's sloppy seconds. Same reason i never really wanna buy a used CPU for a good price. I know that person's binning for themselves...


----------



## CoolProject

hello guys, you too have some "WIMA" slightly crooked?
is this normal? or is it a defect?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I know. The black screws are just for the red heatspreaders. Yet when i took the module out of the package, the red heatspreader, black heatspreader, and ram module completely disassembled. You can see in the pics that the black heatspreaders off. It came like that. Also, i don't like the fact that i woulda had to drill that screw out probly voiding the warranty just to use them. I put them back together but the red heatspreader would still jerk back and forth because of the stripped screw.
> 
> The heatspreaders aren't the issue for me. It's that somebody did a hackjob on them, the memory modules were exposed, and that person felt the need to send them back for a new kit. The Black Heatspreader removed from the memory + the person that separated them deciding for some reason that he didn't want the kit anymore = me not wanting to be the sucker that gets them =P
> 
> Whether there's actually damage, or they're just bad clockers, just felt like i was getting somebody else's sloppy seconds. Same reason i never really wanna buy a used CPU for a good price. I know that person's binning for themselves...


Indeed, those are definitely sloppy seconds. Really poorly disguised sloppy seconds @ that... NewEgg should of sent them back to the manufacturer...


----------



## boldenc

Will the motherboard boot if I use single VGA card in the third x16 PCI-E slot instead the first top slot?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boldenc*
> 
> Will the motherboard boot if I use single VGA card in the third x16 PCI-E slot instead the first top slot?


yes you will have SLIGHTLY higher response time, nothing you could ever notice.... talking nanoseconds !


----------



## gdubc

After lurking in the shadows since the birth of this thread, I can officially join the club.

I will post a labled pic tomorrow.


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn gdub, you mean the beginning of the announcement thread?? LOL

Welcome to the club!!!! Finally!!!


----------



## gdubc

Yep. Wanted it since first announced but I was on the fence until I saw it in person at microcenter.


----------



## Mega Man

he was like "soooo sexay... then kaching, but his watercooling budget will soon be replenished because he will want to unlock the full potential of this board ! !


----------



## gdubc

Haha so true. Already lookin at the ek blocks...


----------



## chimaychanga

any of you know which of the included SATA cables are 6.0 Gb/s ?
there are black ones and black with white on em..


----------



## Mega Man

all

there is no difference between sata 2 and 3 cables it is actuality in the specs for sata 3


----------



## Bick

Any chance to find battery cap somewhere? It's hidden under graphics card but anyway I'd like to get everything consistent and battery is working as a red flag for me


----------



## CoolProject

hello guys, you too have some "WIMA condensers" slightly crooked?
is this normal? or is it a defect?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bick*
> 
> Any chance to find battery cap somewhere? It's hidden under graphics card but anyway I'd like to get everything consistent and battery is working as a red flag for me


sorry i dont follow you want to know the mn of the battery ??

cr2032
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolProject*
> 
> hello guys, you too have some "WIMA condensers" slightly crooked?
> is this normal? or is it a defect?


yes it is normal to have some minor not straight items,. does the board boot up though that is the questions


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> any of you know which of the included SATA cables are 6.0 Gb/s ?
> there are black ones and black with white on em..




Since it comes with 3 bags with 2 black and white SATA cables in each, and 2 bags with 2 black SATA cables, I would assume the black and white ones are the 6.0 Gb/s cables.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Right !


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Since it comes with 3 bags with 2 black and white SATA cables in each, and 2 bags with 2 black SATA cables, I would assume the black and white ones are the 6.0 Gb/s cables.


Mind blown... Never knew there was a Difference. I'm using the blacks.. I doubt its gimping anything I'm doing but IMA change them anyways.

Ugg this OG nexus is starting to show its age.


----------



## kpoeticg

There is no difference. No such thing as a SataI, SataII, or SataIII cable. Just Sata cables. The rest of it's on the hardware level. That screenshot you just posted is probly just so people don't get confused between the different ports on the board


----------



## gdubc

This. Although Asus does label their cables as sata2 and sata3, they will all work the same.


----------



## skupples

Its a conspiracy. Kinda like all headers are pwm!!!!!


----------



## Doug2507

IIRC they're stamped along the cable with which one is which.


----------



## cadaveca

There ARE differences in those cables, but not enough to matter really with short distances. The differences between cables is more about the locking mechanism and the quality of what's used to make the cables, and that's about it. the SATA consortium has plenty of info about cables available, and how to test them, if you are a member.

Those older red SATA 1.5 Gb/s cables...often don't work at all, or hamper performance, of SATA 6 Gb/s drives. I have "new" cables here sitting on my shelf to show this problem, actually.


----------



## Raghar

So when we would see your review?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> So when we would see your review?


next week, maybe the week after. It's all done, just need to upload it to the site this weekend.







Working on a memory review and mITX board review at the moment.


----------



## morper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You mean one of those little mini butane refillable portable torch things . . .
> 
> If so, not a chance in . . . Well, you know.
> 
> You could try the heatgun, but I really really really doubt it,
> 
> I think Jesus will divine you the Powerball numbers first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget to wear decent gloves, I'd guess the temps to be over 500F for sure before the thermal bond weakens.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> I'd really like to see some more folks be successful with this, so that it increases the knowledge base for the community.


Decided to give the 'ol heatgun a try. After around 20 minutes at full effect (2kW) I was able to gently pull the pipe out. Thanks for your help!


----------



## gdubc

That's awesome! I plan on trying as well. I have the torch but if a heat gun will work maybe I will try that first.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You mean one of those little mini butane refillable portable torch things . . .
> 
> If so, not a chance in . . . Well, you know.
> 
> You could try the heatgun, but I really really really doubt it,
> 
> I think Jesus will divine you the Powerball numbers first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget to wear decent gloves, I'd guess the temps to be over 500F for sure before the thermal bond weakens.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> I'd really like to see some more folks be successful with this, so that it increases the knowledge base for the community.
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to give the 'ol heatgun a try. After around *20 minutes at full effect (2kW)* I was able to gently pull the pipe out. Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

Congrats,

That is one big azz heatgun









Nice to see that with a big enough gun and a long enough time, the technique works well.

That should help the rest of the community who are still on the fence.

Darlene


----------



## massimo40mq

Hello guys .. I am also of your own! I wanted to ask your advice I'm following this teatre since he 'was opened, but I have some doubts about the ram mount. I decided on the corsair dominator platinum CMD32GX3M4A1866C9 but are unsure if it would be better to 2133MHz or even 2400MHz C9 C9. the asus site reports on the compatibility 'even only 2800Mhz volt1.6 .. I want a stable system without problems such as processor montero 'i7 4930K. I helped you in choosing? But above all, what difference could be noted between 1866 and 2400 or 2800?
Thanks in advance ...


----------



## LunaP

well somewhat...

I finished my build up and was thinking about grabbing a legit copy of Win 7 Ultimate x64

Anyone recommend any websites where I can purchase and download within the hour? I know 8's getting better but I'm gonna stick to 7 till 9 is out.

Appreciate it


----------



## erayser

If you know a college student, have them buy it from their bookstore. They should have a pretty good discount. I got both windows 7 ultimate and windows 8 professional for $30. Both are upgrade CD's, but there is info out there on how to do a full install from a upgrade CD.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> If you know a college student, have them buy it from their bookstore. They should have a pretty good discount. I got both windows 7 ultimate and windows 8 professional for $30. Both are upgrade CD's, but there is info out there on how to do a full install from a upgrade CD.


Dream spark doesn't seem to have Ultimate, I checked mine, since I'm still enrolled. I just grabbed a copy of enterprise from my company share so I'll just use that since its the same thing just w/o bitlocker I believe?


----------



## LunaP

Can anyone post their settings or recommended settings for a 4960X and 64gb Trident X 2400 Ram? Definitely not used to this board.

Soon as I set XMP or anything it defaults to 32gb Readable only. Just want to get a good clean 4.2-4.5 going on my CPU as well but if I let the board handle it it defaults to 1.4-1.5v regardless of clock setting.


----------



## rabidz7

I grind up and eat cpus


----------



## LunaP

Hmm anyone else ever got the CPU Fan Error! press F1 to Run Setup? I can't find any option to disable that and disabled all onboard fan controllers in attempt. I have nothing plugged into any of the onboard fan ports it's all direct to the CPU.

Disabled CPU Fan monitoring fixed it. Installing windows now.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm anyone else ever got the CPU Fan Error! press F1 to Run Setup? I can't find any option to disable that and disabled all onboard fan controllers in attempt. I have nothing plugged into any of the onboard fan ports it's all direct to the CPU.


Should be the 3rd tab over can't remember what it exactly says but there is a option for fan control click it and then you will see cpu, case fan etc change the cpu low level from 600 rpm to ignore.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Should be the 3rd tab over can't remember what it exactly says but there is a option for fan control click it and then you will see cpu, case fan etc change the cpu low level from 600 rpm to ignore.


Already fixed it and its not that option its a different tab. Just turn off the monitoring. It will show N/A but hit enter and change to Disabled.


----------



## Mega Man

skupples !! i just got my Aquaro 6xt !!! I LOVE IT !!!!!







everyone said it was hard to set up.... took me about 5 min... it is epic, granted now i gotta tweek ! but now i want to make a monochrome png, anyone know how or what program to use?


----------



## tvelander

Ok, now to memory i was thinking going.

http://www.webhallen.com/se-sv/hardvara/164097-corsair_ddr3-2400_16gb_corsair-cl10-kit-2x8gb-1.65v-domina&atcl=external:ref

32GB, will these overclock well or should i go for 4GB sticks and CL9 2400?


----------



## Slinky PC

http://valid.canardpc.com/fi0nyh


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/fi0nyh


x-art, nice one, man:thumb:


----------



## szeged

LOL


----------



## asfgbdnf

I have a question regarding NV SLI.
Take GTX TITAN 2-way SLI for example, as shown in picture, SLI bridge is placed across connectors on the left. Can I connect the one on the right? 

what's the difference between these two connectors? I guess they're identical?


----------



## R1ngu

Do you have room for one more member?


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Already fixed it and its not that option its a different tab. Just turn off the monitoring. It will show N/A but hit enter and change to Disabled.


I have the Noctua NH-D14 SE2011, and also got the warning. The easiest to find in the bios is what you did, turning off the monitoring. But there is also another option (seems harder for me to find each time) where you can reduce the required fan speed. Personally, I would recommend the later, because if one of the CPU fan dies, you will still get the warning. I added them settings to my "favorites", cause half the time, I can only find the one to disable it all together instead of the one to lower the required speed.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> After lurking in the shadows since the birth of this thread, I can officially join the club.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will post a labled pic tomorrow.


Grats and welcome!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello guys .. I am also of your own! I wanted to ask your advice I'm following this teatre since he 'was opened, but I have some doubts about the ram mount. I decided on the corsair dominator platinum CMD32GX3M4A1866C9 but are unsure if it would be better to 2133MHz or even 2400MHz C9 C9. the asus site reports on the compatibility 'even only 2800Mhz volt1.6 .. I want a stable system without problems such as processor montero 'i7 4930K. I helped you in choosing? But above all, what difference could be noted between 1866 and 2400 or 2800?
> Thanks in advance ...


W000 the party grows!! Welcome!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvelander*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, now to memory i was thinking going.
> 
> http://www.webhallen.com/se-sv/hardvara/164097-corsair_ddr3-2400_16gb_corsair-cl10-kit-2x8gb-1.65v-domina&atcl=external:ref
> 
> 32GB, will these overclock well or should i go for 4GB sticks and CL9 2400?


W000 grats and save yourself 150$ off of corsair and go with the G.Skill ram kits, much better bang for your buck and they're the same IC's!! Check out RipJaws, Trident X's etc, the 2400 series are around 160$ for the 16gb pack.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I have a question regarding NV SLI.
> Take GTX TITAN 2-way SLI for example, as shown in picture, SLI bridge is placed across connectors on the left. Can I connect the one on the right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what's the difference between these two connectors? I guess they're identical?


You can use either and be fine as long as they have a feed to eachother to sync up. You only use both when in Tri SLI or higher.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r1ingu*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have room for one more member?


Sorry we're full.







Sgezed , skupples or KpoeticG might be able to hook you up w/ some backstage passes though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I have the Noctua NH-D14 SE2011, and also got the warning. The easiest to find in the bios is what you did, turning off the monitoring. But there is also another option (seems harder for me to find each time) where you can reduce the required fan speed. Personally, I would recommend the later, because if one of the CPU fan dies, you will still get the warning. I added them settings to my "favorites", cause half the time, I can only find the one to disable it all together instead of the one to lower the required speed.


Yeah but I'm water cooling though so there are no CPU fans lol


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah but I'm water cooling though so there are no CPU fans lol


So you don't use either the CPU or CPU option header?

Seems you guys actually have more fans then us air coolers. They are just connected to the radiator(s) instead.

If you have nothing connected to it, then disable is the way to go for sure. But if I did have something connected to either and could get away with a lower fan speed would still do it even with water cooling.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> So you don't use either the CPU or CPU option header?
> 
> Seems you guys actually have more fans then us air coolers. They are just connected to the radiator(s) instead.
> 
> If you have nothing connected to it, then disable is the way to go for sure. But if I did have something connected to either and could get away with a lower fan speed would still do it even with water cooling.


Ever since the Aquaero6 I haven't been able to make use of the ports, even for my AF fans lol, I can put 16 fans per channel on it, so with 32 only taking up 2 of 4 channels, its crazy and I love it. I'll put the AF ones on CH 3 but for anything else I'd use the board, just nice to remove any stress off it , though fans really wouldn't give it much lol.

I definitely need to update the troubleshooting section on the OP this weekend now that I have some time.


----------



## WCRF_1710

New UEFI launched today!!!

Version 0507.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> New UEFI launched today!!!
> 
> Version 0507.


w000 Thanks for the update +rep!

Adding it to the OP! along w/ list of changes/fixes.

EDIT

New Bios 0507 Download link!!


----------



## unph4zed

I can't find any information on 0507. What has changed?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unph4zed*
> 
> I can't find any information on 0507. What has changed?


They skimped out on an update log i emailed them about it though. So far just system stability and better overclocks according to the page.

It's just for stability and issues people have been reporting mostly.

Hopefully others can report further


----------



## gdubc

Don't know if y'all have seen or whose interested but *here* is something for a fair price.


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats and welcome!!!
> W000 the party grows!! Welcome!!
> W000 grats and save yourself 150$ off of corsair and go with the G.Skill ram kits, much better bang for your buck and they're the same IC's!! Check out RipJaws, Trident X's etc, the 2400 series are around 160$ for the 16gb pack.
> You can use either and be fine as long as they have a feed to eachother to sync up. You only use both when in Tri SLI or higher.
> Sorry we're full.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sgezed , skupples or KpoeticG might be able to hook you up w/ some backstage passes though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah but I'm water cooling though so there are no CPU fans lol


Hey guys someone help me?


----------



## kpoeticg

Are you using an IB-E or SB-E CPU? The IMC on IB-E is ugraded so i'd recommend 2400 to take advantage of the better IMC. If your CPU is SB-E (39**K/X) probly 2133 would be better


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Are you using an IB-E or SB-E CPU? The IMC on IB-E is ugraded so i'd recommend 2400 to take advantage of the better IMC. If your CPU is SB-E (39**K/X) probly 2133 would be better


Thanks I have to order i7 4930K me advice


----------



## massimo40mq

then again as latency should I take? and the voltage 1.6?


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Don't know if y'all have seen or whose interested but *here* is something for a fair price.


classic, I get 5HGz stable

+rep, I've been looking for these.


----------



## erayser

When I use the "Select Model Manually" option in the ASUS support download page, it has 2 RIV BE models to select from:

RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION
RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION/AC4

I presume AC4 is the Assassin's Creed 4 edition? ...which most of us have. However, when I select "RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION/AC4" and my OS, it does not have a download for BIOS 0507. The 0507 download is under the "RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION" model... which I presume is the same as the AC4 version?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition with Assassins Creed 4


I wouldn't expect the bios to be any different....


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Okay, now I can finally get my swagger on with the rest of you...

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1795.jpg.html


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I flashed to 0507 and no problems to report.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Do not have the Titans but have the Evga 580 Hydros. According to Evga does not matter. Tri SLI Bridge works on 2 GPUs. For appearance only.

Nice over clock:thumb:


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I wouldn't expect the bios to be any different....


Yah... I wouldn't think they would be any different. Thanks...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> Thanks I have to order i7 4930K me advice


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> then again as latency should I take? and the voltage 1.6?


Probly the most noteworthy upgrade to IB-E/RIVE BE > SB-E/RIVE is the IMC & Memory Clocking. So i def vote for the 2400 kit. And I'd get the lowest CAS you can find for the frequency/price-range you need


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Don't know if y'all have seen or whose interested but *here* is something for a fair price.


I want just the VRM channel.


----------



## kpoeticg

The PCH is usually the most unique part of any particular mobo block. I'm sure if you just wanna cool the VRM's, you could find an alternate solution like Slinky did with the Vanilla RIVE Block


----------



## LunaP

Definitely gonna need some assistance w/ my board. Gonna update when I get home, but can't get all 64gb to show up unless I set it to 1333mhz RAM, and the bios is completely different from what I'm used to, not even showing these 10000's of profiles people are seeing, I've attempted quite a few different settings as well. Sucks autotune is removed for ROG products as they see it only a fit for the lower ends.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The PCH is usually the most unique part of any particular mobo block. I'm sure if you just wanna cool the VRM's, you could find an alternate solution like Slinky did with the Vanilla RIVE Block


he VRM block is normally sold by it's self, but i'll have to order it from EK, which means it will cost as much as the entire thing due to shipping. Oh, & they are sold out =( & they only sell the mosfet block by it's self in two types, both nickel.
I don't even see the EK block on PPC's. If i'm going to cool the VRM's i'm not going to use a sponge layer of thermals.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> New UEFI launched today!!!
> 
> Version 0507.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> w000 Thanks for the update +rep!
> 
> Adding it to the OP! along w/ list of changes/fixes.
> 
> EDIT
> 
> New Bios 0507 Download link!!
Click to expand...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Don't even try this at home if yours r4be works, as will disable one of the chip bios to reload yours iROG-1 for other one.
> If you insist before update you should copy your setup bios from one bios to another one... just in case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how DISPERATE become ASUS to fix r4be.. 0507 switcher bios?


English plox


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Don't even try this at home if yours r4be works, as will disable one of the chip bios to reload yours iROG-1 for other one.
> If you insist before update you should copy your setup bios from one bios to another one... just in case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how DISPERATE become ASUS to fix r4be.. 0507 switcher bios?


Any bios update, on any mobo, wipes your custom settings to my knowledge/ ???


----------



## skupples

I must of missed the part where asus is desperate to fix things. I must of also missed the part where updating a bios is the end of the world... This board has dual bios chips no? So, flash the new bios to the second chip?

you would think a desperate company would of pushed a new bios sooner than this.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
Click to expand...


----------



## TK101

Just updated my bios. Time to see if I can go past 4.7 on my 4820k! lolz


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I must of missed the part where asus is desperate to fix things. I must of also missed the part where updating a bios is the end of the world... This board has dual bios chips no? So, flash the new bios to the second chip?
> 
> you would think a desperate company would of pushed a new bios sooner than this.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> English?!! Io no speech English!
> 0507 is not a bios update is a bios switcher.. DON"T DO IT!
> If need translation on Romanian, Russian, Italian or Japanese let me know?


I think they are bit confused about what the BIOS would actually do. So have you tried to boot from that BIOS?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
Click to expand...


----------



## hotrod717

What in the world? Bios 0507!

I've totally lost what the issue is here. You said $100, or was that only for skupples?
......NVM not worth it.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> 
> 
> What in the world? Bios 0507!
> 
> I've totally lost what the issue is here. You said $100, or was that only for skupples?
> ......NVM not worth it.


----------



## rabidz7

How many SSDs can this board RAID?


----------



## Slinky PC




----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> So you don't use either the CPU or CPU option header?
> 
> Seems you guys actually have more fans then us air coolers. They are just connected to the radiator(s) instead.
> 
> If you have nothing connected to it, then disable is the way to go for sure. But if I did have something connected to either and could get away with a lower fan speed would still do it even with water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> Ever since the Aquaero6 I haven't been able to make use of the ports, even for my AF fans lol, I can put 16 fans per channel on it, so with 32 only taking up 2 of 4 channels, its crazy and I love it. I'll put the AF ones on CH 3 but for anything else I'd use the board, just nice to remove any stress off it , though fans really wouldn't give it much lol.
> 
> I definitely need to update the troubleshooting section on the OP this weekend now that I have some time.
Click to expand...

agreed about the aq6, i have had it literally 24 hours and dear god it is awesome ! i have it on my amd system but now i will be buying for all pcs i own ( probably when i order my new blocks )

however i do have a use for the other headers. i want all my pumps at the same speed so i use the swiftech pwm splitter ( wire not the 8 way splitter as i want to monitor all pumps ) and i use the cpu headers to monitor the volts, as they have both molex and pwm wires so i get the best of both worlds, piggie back the pwm signal from one header to all pumps and can monitor all pump speeds, ironically in aquasuite !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Don't know if y'all have seen or whose interested but *here* is something for a fair price.


great thanks ! should be buying blocks soon ! ! maybe this week but probably not, wify decided she wants to go home to china for a vaca so.. well i wanna go !!! it is so much fun !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Don't even try this at home if yours r4be works, as will disable one of the chip bios to reload yours iROG-1 for other one.
> If you insist before update you should copy your setup bios from one bios to another one... just in case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how DISPERATE become ASUS to fix r4be.. 0507 switcher bios?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any bios update, on any mobo, wipes your custom settings to my knowledge/ ???
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> 
> 
> What in the world? Bios 0507!
> 
> I've totally lost what the issue is here. You said $100, or was that only for skupples?
> ......NVM not worth it.












maybe when you flash bios it defaults to one, or it defaults to the one they were doing the testing on ?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

@LunaP - Could you please add me to your list. Proof is in post #4316. Thanks.


----------



## skupples

aww, missed out. would of taken you up on the slinky. I'm pretty damned stable on 0403, so i was in no rush to try out the new bios. I normally wait for feedback. Being that it's the second post-release bios & all.


----------



## Redshift 91

My bios chip 2 would not post since I've had the board, after 50 tries, I finally got into the bios and flashed it to 0507 and I haven't had a single issue since. Bios 1 is still 0403. Still running 5.0 at 1.41v on my 3930k and all 32GB of memory at 2133. Not sure if bios 2 was a bad flash because, after I did a cmos clear, neither bios would post at stock most of the time. If nothing else, the new bios fixed that issue, whatever was causing it. I haven't seen a difference otherwise.


----------



## Ftimster

hay guys what do i rename the bios RVBE.CAP-R4EBE.CAP????


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> hay guys what do i rename the bios RVBE.CAP-R4EBE.CAP????


R4BE.CAP (E like Edition nothing about extreme here)


----------



## Ftimster

thanks bud


----------



## Dantrax

Asus has 2 bios under R4BE, but only 1 bios under R4BE\AC4. Asus has 2 Firmware updates under R4BE\AC4 but only 1 firmware update under R4BE. We're going to have to look under both R4BE & R4BE\AC4 selections to get a complete listing of Asus updates for this board. Really whacky on Asus's part since it's the same board. The AC4 part only adds the game code card to the box.


----------



## kpoeticg

My new BE Clean CSQ Block =)


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> Asus has 2 bios under R4BE, but only 1 bios under R4BE\AC4. Asus has 2 Firmware updates under R4BE\AC4 but only 1 firmware update under R4BE. We're going to have to look under both R4BE & R4BE\AC4 selections to get a complete listing of Asus updates for this board. Really whacky on Asus's part since it's the same board. The AC4 part only adds the game code card to the box.


Actually, a few beta bioses tested from way back with Rev. 1.01 board at RIVBE coming out event IDF 2013 SF



http://imgur.com/6ORgaMR





http://imgur.com/a9oAycg



First release bios is perfect for retail chip and Rev. 1.02 board


----------



## szeged

sticking with the release bios, 5.0 stable and 0 problems so far







not updating lol.


----------



## JLMS2010

Can you add me please


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Don't know if y'all have seen or whose interested but *here* is something for a fair price.


Oh yeah! Rep!








Nice surprise. I was definitely expecting it to cost a little more than that. That doesn't happen often.

Just ordered my XSPC RIVB3 block set. Last pieces of the puzzle (I hope!) are on the way!!!

Now I just got to squeeze in enough time to get it all together. Work has been killing us these past few weeks. I put in just shy of 80 hrs last week, and my schedule going forward as far as I can see looks like more of the same.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sticking with the release bios, 5.0 stable and 0 problems so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not updating lol.


yeah... i'll update next time i lose my OC.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Don't know if y'all have seen or whose interested but *here* is something for a fair price.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah! Rep!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice surprise. I was definitely expecting it to cost a little more than that. That doesn't happen often.
> 
> Just ordered my XSPC RIVB3 block set. Last pieces of the puzzle (I hope!) are on the way!!!
> 
> Now I just got to squeeze in enough time to get it all together. Work has been killing us these past few weeks. I put in just shy of 80 hrs last week, and my schedule going forward as far as I can see looks like more of the same.
Click to expand...

i know how you feel i was doing that up to christmas, then we just went dead ( still getting 40 ) it is a nice change after 8 months lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sticking with the release bios, 5.0 stable and 0 problems so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not updating lol.
> 
> 
> 
> yeah... i'll update next time i lose my OC.
Click to expand...

you all know you can save your ocs to your hdd/usb ( the settings ) then update them again on the new bios right ?


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you all know you can save your ocs to your hdd/usb ( the settings ) then update them again on the new bios right ?


OR if ya'll spent as much time oc'ing and actually in your bios, as time spent drooling over pr0n, it wouldn't be an issue.








Pen and paper are your friends.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> OR if ya'll spent as much time oc'ing and actually in your bios, as time spent drooling over pr0n, it wouldn't be an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pen and paper are your friends.


That's why I overclock 5000 mhz of porn loading goodness


----------



## Dantrax

Yeah that's usually what I see with Asus bios updates. Most are stability updates, instead of new features, but that's OK. At least their working out any kinks they find. I'm running ver.0507 on my other chip with my same everyday OC without any hiccups so far.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i know how you feel i was doing that up to christmas, then we just went dead ( still getting 40 ) it is a nice change after 8 months lol
> you all know you can save your ocs to your hdd/usb ( the settings ) then update them again on the new bios right ?


I thought the saved settings only worked if it was the same bios? I wasn't able to reload my saved oc with my mvf when I updated the bios anyhow.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sticking with the release bios, 5.0 stable and 0 problems so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not updating lol.


You might get that 5.1-5.2 , won't know unless you try


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> My new BE Clean CSQ Block =)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn you bro... I've been content with not water cooling my mobo this time around... then you had to post these...









LOL... j/k... looks nice, but I'm still keeping the heat sinks.









Jameswalt1 was kind enough to send me one of his spare 3 way SLI Bridges (thanks buddy).









Also, I tried stitching/sewing my PCI-e cables to make it little cleaner. I messed up on the last row stitch... LOL... I'm not redoing it since it looks cleaner than when I didn't have the stitching.



Next, I'm going to change that stinking bright red LED out of my Fatal1ty recon3d thx sound board to white and install it. I wasn't planning to install it... but wermad tempted me to fill the slot.









Also planning on upgrading to Windows 8.1 in the next couple days... unless someone has good reason not to update? Let me know...


----------



## skupples

so, EK only sells the mosfet by it's self in nickel... what the hell is that?

sent them an email asking them to hook it up.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Damn you bro... I've been content with not water cooling my mobo this time around... then you had to post these...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL... j/k... looks nice, but I'm still keeping the heat sinks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jameswalt1 was kind enough to send me one of his spare 3 way SLI Bridges (thanks buddy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I tried stitching/sewing my PCI-e cables to make it little cleaner. I messed up on the last row stitch... LOL... I'm not redoing it since it looks cleaner than when I didn't have the stitching.
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'm going to change that stinking bright red LED out of my Fatal1ty recon3d thx sound board to white and install it. I wasn't planning to install it... but wermad tempted me to fill the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also planning on upgrading to Windows 8.1 in the next couple days... unless someone has good reason not to update? Let me know...


what kind of tube is you are using for this beast?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Damn you bro... I've been content with not water cooling my mobo this time around... then you had to post these...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL... j/k... looks nice, but I'm still keeping the heat sinks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Jameswalt1 was kind enough to send me one of his spare 3 way SLI Bridges (thanks buddy).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I tried stitching/sewing my PCI-e cables to make it little cleaner. I messed up on the last row stitch... LOL... I'm not redoing it since it looks cleaner than when I didn't have the stitching.
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'm going to change that stinking bright red LED out of my Fatal1ty recon3d thx sound board to white and install it. I wasn't planning to install it... but wermad tempted me to fill the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also planning on upgrading to Windows 8.1 in the next couple days... unless someone has good reason not to update? Let me know...












We all know its just for aesthetics so don't feel bad about it. Glad you like the pics tho. My first macro shots ever









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> what kind of tube is you are using for this beast?


I'm pretty sure he uses Primochill Black Acryic Tubing


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> what kind of tube is you are using for this beast?


Primochill black acrylic with Primochill black revolver compression fittings. I used a lot of bitspower extenders and angled rotary fittings. The rotary angled fittings helped make installing the acrylic tubing... so you don't have to bend the tubing into the compression fittings. Just rotate the angled fittings onto the acrylic tubing. This will help when I do my next maintenance. That's when I'll fix my stitching on my last row of the PCE-e cable... LOL...


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Primochill black acrylic with Primochill black revolver compression fittings. I used a lot of bitspower extenders and angled rotary fittings. The rotary angled fittings helped make installing the acrylic tubing... so you don't have to bend the tubing into the compression fittings. Just rotate the angled fittings onto the acrylic tubing. This will help when I do my next maintenance. That's when I'll fix my stitching on my last row of the PCE-e cable... LOL...


how did you bend the tube?


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> how did you bend the tube?


I bent my primochill black acrylic free-hand over a heatgun with cotton gloves on. Monsoon has a bending kit with different angled mandrels to help bending... but the kit wasn't out when I was working on my loop. I couldn't wait any longer to finish... so I did it free-hand. I don't think the monsoon kit would have worked for some of my tight bends anyway. Just search "



" in YouTube if you want to see how to bend acrylic.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> @LunaP - Could you please add me to your list. Proof is in post #4316. Thanks.


lol no worries and grats! I Make double runs through the thread to ensure I don't miss anyone now when I'm not for a day or so. Finally got my build log near complete.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Can you add me please


Grats!! welcome!!! I remember your PM as well









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I bent my primochill black acrylic free-hand over a heatgun with cotton gloves on. Monsoon has a bending kit with different angled mandrels to help bending... but the kit wasn't out when I was working on my loop. I couldn't wait any longer to finish... so I did it free-hand. I don't think the monsoon kit would have worked for some of my tight bends anyway. Just search "
> 
> 
> 
> " in YouTube if you want to see how to bend acrylic.


I did the same too many of the areas I did my runs I had to get it to start to bend then quickly move it over to get an idea of how to start the bend.


----------



## Redshift 91

Hey, guys, I'm getting ready for the first round of fixes for issues that I didn't forsee in the initial build. If I wanted to put my titans in the x16 slots, the crystal link I would need is the 4 slot spacing, right? Thanks in advance.


----------



## King4x4

Yup 4-slot links.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Yup 4-slot links.


+rep, thanks


----------



## Slinky PC

Finally R4BE got a real bios








Slinky PC 24/7-H2O vs 5sec-LN2 http://valid.canardpc.com/s0yv84


----------



## sidekisk

This is my 900D and RIVBE Build.

Let me start off by saying I know the GTX 480s are dated, I purchased them a couple of years ago to upgrade an Alienware I bought a few years before that. I never got around to installing the GPU's so they were unopened and my wife said I had to use them for at least a few months before I could buy 3 GTX 780Ti's. Also, this is my first ever build and I also travel for a living. I live in a fifth wheel rv and pull it where ever I go so I can't run a custom water loop (no matter how much I want to).

Hope you all like it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Finally R4BE got a real bios
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slinky PC 24/7-H2O vs 5sec-LN2 http://valid.canardpc.com/s0yv84


so you like it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidekisk*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This is my 900D and RIVBE Build.
> 
> Let me start off by saying I know the GTX 480s are dated, I purchased them a couple of years ago to upgrade an Alienware I bought a few years before that. I never got around to installing the GPU's so they were unopened and my wife said I had to use them for at least a few months before I could buy 3 GTX 780Ti's. Also, this is my first ever build and I also travel for a living. I live in a fifth wheel rv and pull it where ever I go so I can't run a custom water loop (no matter how much I want to).
> 
> Hope you all like it.
> 
> 900DBuild 207k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 900DBuild 207k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 900DBuild 187k .JPG file


very nice! Welcome!


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Finally R4BE got a real bios
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slinky PC 24/7-H2O vs 5sec-LN2 http://valid.canardpc.com/s0yv84
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so you like it?
Click to expand...

I like the system stability with bios 0507 but to be honest I aspect from ASUS to give as the one they use on San Francisco.. maybe next update!
Time to add same lights.


----------



## gdubc

Are any of you guys that are running 8 ram sticks doing it from two kits? Just curious.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Are any of you guys that are running 8 ram sticks doing it from two kits? Just curious.


No one will recommend you to do this bcz compatibility issues. The real question should be..



















click for answer


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sticking with the release bios, 5.0 stable and 0 problems so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not updating lol.
> 
> 
> 
> You might get that 5.1-5.2 , won't know unless you try
Click to expand...

Are you guys posting on overclock.net? Then give a try don't protect your cpu (1.40v) and electricity build, let see what this mb and cpu can do?


----------



## wermad

Thanks for all the help guys, but I've decided to move on from the BE. I'm going w/ a vanilla RIVE since its cheaper and I could use the extra money for other things in life. The deal breaker was the disappointing sound on the BE. Luckily, I found a simple and inexpensive way to solve this issue w/ the BE and the RIVE w/ 4-way gpu's (can be used w/ other boards as well):



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Tricky to wire up the sound card w/ the quads.
> 
> edit: got it through. Need to cut a hole on the mb tray to allow the pcie riser cable to fit.
> 
> Currently in the last pcie_16x slot w/ three Lightnings. Time to move it w/ the riser.
> 
> 
> The small gap between the 4th Lightning and the mb/caps. barely enough. Hopefully its easy w/ the new mb as well.
> 
> 
> Riser cable sticks out a bit too much
> 
> 
> Lined up w/ the 4th Lightning in a mockup. It will occupy slot #9 on the mb tray.
> 
> 
> Will clear the EK Ltg. block's link. Since its not directly attached to the mb, there's a bit of wiggle room to pivot the sound card.
> 
> 
> Lastly, a cutout/hole will need to be done on the mb tray panel since the riser cable ends are bulky.
> 
> 
> It fits! Well, now I have to make sure it will fit w/ the new mb. Simple fix if you can get it to pass through. Keep in mind EK designed the Lightning blocks to be very wide. So wide I loose quite a few front panel connections (usb, audio, firewire, etc.). I barely got away w/ this board using some very small fan cables to wire up the power and reset. You may have a block that's not as wide (all other blocks I've owned were never this wide) so you should have good clearance as long as the pcb has that gap and your mb doesn't interfere too much. Riser cable was ~$10 and I bought it off auction on ebay from a US seller. Most cables come from China and they're cheaper. Though be prepared to wait a few weeks if you choose econo shipping. They Amazon sellers seem like they're from China as well. They don't show specifically where they're shipping from and like the cell phone accessories you buy there, most likely it is coming from China.
> 
> Other then that, there's a pcb kit using usb 3.0 for ~$25. This converts a pcie_1x slot into a usb 3.0 cable and then on to a small pcb w/ a pcie_16x slot. Comes w/ the molex connector for power. The riser was cheaper tbh so unless you don't have slot available, this is another option.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-express-1x-to-16x-16x-1x-mining-Extender-Riser-Card-Power-USB3-0-cable-/281245949308?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417b909d7c


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I bent my primochill black acrylic free-hand over a heatgun with cotton gloves on. Monsoon has a bending kit with different angled mandrels to help bending... but the kit wasn't out when I was working on my loop. I couldn't wait any longer to finish... so I did it free-hand. I don't think the monsoon kit would have worked for some of my tight bends anyway. Just search "
> 
> 
> 
> " in YouTube if you want to see how to bend acrylic.


you also put a soft rubber tube inside the acrylic tube like shown in the video>?
does all acrylic tube become soft and allow you bending them once you heat them up?


----------



## Ftimster

just some thoughts on the new bios running the original bios 1.350 vcore for my 4.8 would show as 1.360 in cpu-z.....ok never budged from that now flash new bios same settings and I noticed that my vcore would spike under load from 1.360 to 1.376 for just a sec then back then spike again hmmm.....didn't like this much so wet back into bios set the vcore to 1.345 and back to normal weird primed it out and all good I'm assuming obviously theres Been some adjustments made in that area with this new BIOS just curious has anybody else noticed any differences in their vcore droop or otherwise


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yeah... i'll update next time i lose my OC.


Same here!


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> just some thoughts on the new bios running the original bios 1.350 vcore for my 4.8 would show as 1.360 in cpu-z.....ok never budged from that now flash new bios same settings and I noticed that my vcore would spike under load from 1.360 to 1.376 for just a sec then back then spike again hmmm.....didn't like this much so wet back into bios set the vcore to 1.345 and back to normal weird primed it out and all good I'm assuming obviously theres Been some adjustments made in that area with this new BIOS just curious has anybody else noticed any differences in their vcore droop or otherwise


That's LLC kicking in. Depending on your settings could be more or less than manual voltage set in bios and to greater degrees. But, 1.360v manual to 1.376 under load is normal for Ultra LLC.


----------



## Ftimster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> That's LLC kicking in. Depending on your settings could be more or less than manual voltage set in bios and to greater degrees. But, 1.360v manual to 1.376 under load is normal for Ultra LLC.


I'm set to auto llc hmmm


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> I'm set to auto llc hmmm


If you set it to High it shouldn't overshoot as much. Should only be .008v difference from what you set in bios.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> If you set it to High it shouldn't overshoot as much. Should only be .008v difference from what you set in bios.


my experience shows, with CPU LLC to extreme, you'll get the Vcore you set in BIOS under load, otherwise, Vcore is lower when it's under stress.(droop)


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> My new BE Clean CSQ Block =)


To nice to don't order one. By using the rig at high voltage for 5.2GHz the MB reach 47C because the PCH is at 69C (in silent mode only). Yours pics make me change my mind, just ordered one


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> my experience shows, with CPU LLC to extreme, you'll get the Vcore you set in BIOS under load, otherwise, Vcore is lower when it's under stress.(droop)


Totally false. Extreme overshoots the most. Don't think you're looking at the correct readings.


----------



## Dantrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys, but I've decided to move on from the BE. I'm going w/ a vanilla RIVE since its cheaper and I could use the extra money for other things in life. The deal breaker was the disappointing sound on the BE. Luckily, I found a simple and inexpensive way to solve this issue w/ the BE and the RIVE w/ 4-way gpu's (can be used w/ other boards as well):


Skupples You want 1 of these instead - http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-e-PCI-Express-36PIN-1X-extender-Extension-cable-with-Gold-plated-connector-/161148789206?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25853761d6 I have two 780ti SC in the X16 slots 1 & 3. I know if I plug any card into slot 4 my SLI degrades to X16 by X8. So I plugged this into the 1X slot under my slot 3 780ti & mounted my eClaro off the mobo. My PC D-8000 case has 11 pci slots on back so I just let my sound card hang by it's bracket with no problems. Plus that cable should be long enough for you.


----------



## Dantrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Totally false. Extreme overshoots the most. Don't think you're looking at the correct readings.


Hotrod717 Does the Load Line Calibration lower your Vcore when your CPU doesn't need the higher voltage you set for an overclock? I have my CPU voltage at 1.30 which runs at 1.312. will the LLC lower my voltage when I don't need it?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Totally false. Extreme overshoots the most. Don't think you're looking at the correct readings.


I think, at this moment, none of those commonly used softwares gives correct Vcore reading, e.g cpu-z, hwinfo,aida64,agree? Besides, every chip behaves differently, I clearly said "my experience shows". With CPU LLC to extreme and set Vcore to 1.24 in BIOS, I get 1.24 under stress


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> Hotrod717 Does the Load Line Calibration lower your Vcore when your CPU doesn't need the higher voltage you set for an overclock? I have my CPU voltage at 1.30 which runs at 1.312. will the LLC lower my voltage when I don't need it?


No LLC doesn't control that. Combination of Intel Speed Step, Turbo and Offset voltage regulates clock speed and voltage based upon demand put on cpu. LLC helps regulate Vdroop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I think, at this moment, none of those commonly used software gives correct Vcore reading, e.g cpu-z, hwinfo,aida64,agree?


No. CPU-Z and HW64 show same voltages. You will not have a 100% steady voltage reading from anything when comparing it to what you have entered in bios depending on LLC, Intel Speedstep, Turbo and whether you use manual or offset voltages. Even though our mobo's use LGA 2011, a lot of the same concepts and settings apply from earlier Intel generations or quad counterparts. I suggest taking a look at some guides on both OCN and ROG forum. Basics my friend, basics.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> No LLC doesn't control that. Combination of Intel Speed Step, Turbo and Offset voltage regulates clock speed and voltage based upon demand put on cpu. LLC helps regulate Vdroop.
> No. CPU-Z and HW64 show same voltages. You will not have a 100% steady voltage reading from anything when comparing it to what you have entered in bios depending on LLC, Intel Speedstep, Turbo and whether you use manual or offset voltages. Even though our mobo's use LGA 2011, a lot of the same concepts and settings apply from earlier Intel generations or quad counterparts. I suggest taking a look at some guides on both OCN and ROG forum. Basics my friend, basics.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I think, at this moment, none of those commonly used software gives correct Vcore reading, e.g cpu-z, hwinfo,aida64,agree? Besides, every chip varies, I clearly said "my experience shows".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Totally false. Extreme overshoots the most. Don't think you're looking at the correct readings.


HW64 doesn't shown Vcore reading. Can you post a snapshot.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> HW64 doesn't shown Vcore reading. Can you post a snapshot.


Yes it does. VCCIN is Vcore. Right now I'm running 4.6ghz offset utilizing Ultra LLC. Intel Speedstep and Turbo enabled. For benching it's best to disable them and run manual voltage.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Are any of you guys that are running 8 ram sticks doing it from two kits? Just curious.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> No one will recommend you to do this bcz compatibility issues. The real question should be..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> click for answer


I knew it wasn't really recommended, I just wondered if someone was still doing it anyway. I don't really want 64gb of ram and Newegg only has 1 kit with 4gb sticks that they currently offer.
I really just don't want to drop $800 on ram mainly.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I knew it wasn't really recommended, I just wondered if someone was still doing it anyway. I don't really want 64gb of ram and Newegg only has 1 kit with 4gb sticks that they currently offer.
> I really just don't want to drop $800 on ram mainly.


I'm using two 8x kits. Not sure if it's normal, but the serials are all in succession... They also clocked really well on my 3570k, & are running @ rated on a 3930k @ 2400mhz, which was a surprise for me.


----------



## qcktthfm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> Skupples You want 1 of these instead - http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-e-PCI-Express-36PIN-1X-extender-Extension-cable-with-Gold-plated-connector-/161148789206?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25853761d6 I have two 780ti SC in the X16 slots 1 & 3. I know if I plug any card into slot 4 my SLI degrades to X16 by X8. So I plugged this into the 1X slot under my slot 3 780ti & mounted my eClaro off the mobo. My PC D-8000 case has 11 pci slots on back so I just let my sound card hang by it's bracket with no problems. Plus that cable should be long enough for you.


I have 780 SLI sandwich my Asus Phoebus, it's getting really hot when game.
The SLI bridge touching the soundcard metal shield.
I have a vertical extra slot in my case too, but then I don't want to block 2 side fans.
I try mount it the last slot of the mobo like yours too.
I'm waiting my 1x flexible cable coming in mail anyway.



*@Dantrax* so how's the airflow with your 780ti SC SLI now?
How's the flexible cable heating up between 2 video cards?
Does your soundcard wobbles a little bit cos only one screw on the pci slot?
The plug under slot 3 is fine too?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I knew it wasn't really recommended, I just wondered if someone was still doing it anyway. I don't really want 64gb of ram and Newegg only has 1 kit with 4gb sticks that they currently offer.
> I really just don't want to drop $800 on ram mainly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm using two 8x kits. Not sure if it's normal, but the serials are all in succession... They also clocked really well on my 3570k, & are running @ rated on a 3930k @ 2400mhz, which was a surprise for me.


Theres nothing wrong with running 2 kits cadaveca already explained it fully earlier in the thread as long as theyre the same make and model. I have 2x 32gb packs and they work fine though when setting them to 2400mhz i beleive i need to adjust the voltage else it shows up as 32gb so i havent messed with the oc settings yet and am running at stock.

Going to look for a good guide later and then try my luck on my cpu


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Theres nothing wrong with running 2 kits cadaveca already explained it fully earlier in the thread as long as theyre the same make and model. I have 2x 32gb packs and they work fine though when setting them to 2400mhz i beleive i need to adjust the voltage else it shows up as 32gb so i havent messed with the oc settings yet and am running at stock.
> 
> Going to look for a good guide later and then try my luck on my cpu


it really only becomes an issue with higher & higher binning levels.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it really only becomes an issue with higher & higher binning levels.


or when you don't know how to set-up memory timings and the BIOS doesn't either, and your XMP profile doesn't work with multiple kits. Even @ 1600 MHz...it can be a problem.

The perfect example is all those AMD users with memory problems...expecting Intel XMP profiled sticks to work on an AMD rig without manual changes to timings.

Over the years I have found that very few people really know how to set-up memory timings, so rather than say "yes, it can work", I feel it's better to say yes, it can work, but there's also a chance it won't at all.

The big issue for us, right now, is that for high-end kits, the load placed on the memory controller, for each stick, does play a part in memory kit assembly. Sometimes, sticking the sticks in the board in the wrong order can cause issues, even, depending on what the sticks are.

So, it's best to advise people to buy one kit that has what they need, or be prepared to have problems, and right now, that includes users trying to push 8x8 sticks for 64 GB on this board for long-term use. Benching is no problem. Tertiary timings aren't scaling automatically...you need to adjust manually. I haven't tried the new BIOS yet though....been a bit busy as of late.


----------



## rabidz7

I run 8x8GB DDR2 on a PowerPC system. The RAM controller is on the northbridge, though. They are just generic DIMMs.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> I run 8x8GB DDR2 on a PowerPC system. The RAM controller is on the northbridge, though. They are just generic DIMMs.


Running JEDEC specs usually isn't any issue, as long as you have sticks that use JEDEC profile, not XMP profile, at that 1600 MHz. The problem purely revolves around XMP profiling.

technically, JEDEC-spec'd 1866 MHz sticks should run @ 1866 MHz, no problem, all slots filled, since that's the "stock" for these IVB-E chips. However, good luck finding JEDEC-spec 1866 sticks...only Crucial has a set that I am aware of right now.

for me, 1866 MHz divider is broken, giving less performance than 1600 MHz, no matter how many sticks are installed.


----------



## USFORCES

Got the Black up and running finely! I planed on using just black Primochill ridged tubing but as you can see that didn't happen, I have to order more because a couple of the bends cracked fitting them not to mention I couldn't get one fitting to stop leaking.


----------



## Dantrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qcktthfm1*
> 
> I have 780 SLI sandwich my Asus Phoebus, it's getting really hot when game.
> The SLI bridge touching the soundcard metal shield.
> I have a vertical extra slot in my case too, but then I don't want to block 2 side fans.
> I try mount it the last slot of the mobo like yours too.
> I'm waiting my 1x flexible cable coming in mail anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> *@Dantrax* so how's the airflow with your 780ti SC SLI now?
> How's the flexible cable heating up between 2 video cards?
> Does your soundcard wobbles a little bit cos only one screw on the pci slot?
> The plug under slot 3 is fine too?


The plug under slot 3 is the one I used. This adapter cable has a low profile when easily coaxed to bend. I used this cable because the eClaro has tall capacitors on it & the front panel mic & phones plug is in a poor location. The eClaro is meant to be used in that bottom slot 4 so it will have enough room for it's design flaws. Too bad if you plug anything into slot 4 you will loose x16 by x16. The sound card hung out fine with no real motion or vibration. I guess it was balanced by the speaker cable plug outside the case. In any event it worked great for me. My airflow is fine in this case & with this R4BE I actually have 780 in slot 1, eClaro in slot 2, ATI TV card in 1x slot & the other 780 in slot 3. So everything is very tight but it fits w\o having to use the cable at all. But I didn't put a backplate on the lower 780 which helped with wiggle room. I'm also using a different door side panel as well, the 1 with the two 140mm fan mounting holes. I have Silverstone air penetrators blowing thru to the card slots on the mobo. Seems ok so far for me hope things work out for you 2.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidekisk*
> 
> This is my 900D and RIVBE Build.
> 
> Let me start off by saying I know the GTX 480s are dated, I purchased them a couple of years ago to upgrade an Alienware I bought a few years before that. I never got around to installing the GPU's so they were unopened and my wife said I had to use them for at least a few months before I could buy 3 GTX 780Ti's. Also, this is my first ever build and I also travel for a living. I live in a fifth wheel rv and pull it where ever I go so I can't run a custom water loop (no matter how much I want to).
> 
> Hope you all like it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 900DBuild 207k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 900DBuild 207k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 900DBuild 187k .JPG file


just so you know you can upload pics directly using the picture icon above the editor then you dont have to attach them !
welcome
but i have to ask why can you not use watercooling on a RV ?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> If you set it to High it shouldn't overshoot as much. Should only be .008v difference from what you set in bios.
> 
> 
> 
> my experience shows, with CPU LLC to extreme, you'll get the Vcore you set in BIOS under load, otherwise, Vcore is lower when it's under stress.(droop)
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> HW64 doesn't shown Vcore reading. Can you post a snapshot.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it does. VCCIN is Vcore. Right now I'm running 4.6ghz offset utilizing Ultra LLC. Intel Speedstep and Turbo enabled. For benching it's best to disable them and run manual voltage.
Click to expand...





unlike amd to my understanding llc is by intel spec where as amd does not have a spec so mobo manufactures can do what ever they want




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Are any of you guys that are running 8 ram sticks doing it from two kits? Just curious.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> No one will recommend you to do this bcz compatibility issues. The real question should be..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> click for answer
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I knew it wasn't really recommended, I just wondered if someone was still doing it anyway. I don't really want 64gb of ram and Newegg only has 1 kit with 4gb sticks that they currently offer.
> I really just don't want to drop $800 on ram mainly.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I knew it wasn't really recommended, I just wondered if someone was still doing it anyway. I don't really want 64gb of ram and Newegg only has 1 kit with 4gb sticks that they currently offer.
> I really just don't want to drop $800 on ram mainly.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using two 8x kits. Not sure if it's normal, but the serials are all in succession... They also clocked really well on my 3570k, & are running @ rated on a 3930k @ 2400mhz, which was a surprise for me.
Click to expand...





i use 2 kits of sammies !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Got the Black up and running finely! I planed on using just black Primochill ridged tubing but as you can see that didn't happen, I have to order more because a couple of the bends cracked fitting them not to mention I couldn't get one fitting to stop leaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


glad it is up and sorry to hear about the problems !~

to wermad we will miss you ! COME BACK !!!!


----------



## striderstone

I just finished installing my 2 loops for this monster and I'm running into a problem...

When I plug my psu in the motherboard illuminates, which is good
When I press the power button, all the fans and lights turn on for a second and then turn off
If I don't cut the power from the wall the computer jeeps cycling power.
I unplugged all ram sticks, all video cards, and all fans. Simply left the 2 pumps plugged in as well as the mobo but the results were the same.

I tried a different power supply and a different wall outlet. Does anyone have any ideas?


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I just finished installing my 2 loops for this monster and I'm running into a problem...
> 
> When I plug my psu in the motherboard illuminates, which is good
> When I press the power button, all the fans and lights turn on for a second and then turn off
> If I don't cut the power from the wall the computer jeeps cycling power.
> I unplugged all ram sticks, all video cards, and all fans. Simply left the 2 pumps plugged in as well as the mobo but the results were the same.
> 
> I tried a different power supply and a different wall outlet. Does anyone have any ideas?


Is the board plugged in properly? I had this issue when the mobo wasn't fully connected to the PSU. Ensure that all connections are good.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Is the board plugged in properly? I had this issue when the mobo wasn't fully connected to the PSU. Ensure that all connections are good


I tried 2 different psus so I don't think that's the issue. What are the connections that are 100% necessary? There is a 24 pin an 8 pin a 4 pin and a molex. But that's all I see.

I have plugged all of them in using both psus and they both did the same thing


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I tried 2 different psus so I don't think that's the issue. What are the connections that are 100% necessary? There is a 24 pin an 8 pin a 4 pin and a molex. But that's all I see.
> 
> I have plugged all of them in using both psus and they both did the same thing


Are the PSUs modular? I have a modular PSU and the cable looked like it was in the PSU, but it was only partially in the PSU.


----------



## striderstone

They look tight to me. Clasps are fastened.

After some playing around with it, I heard a pop from my psu and now it will only turn on once. The fan from the psu stays on though.

I uploaded a video if that helps...


----------



## Dantrax

qcktthfm1, I still might pull the TV card out & hang it off the R4BE in 1 of the lower pci slots. I have thin cardboard & black tape insulating the eClaro caps from the TV card. It's hard to see the cardboard. Plus the TV card generates more heat than the eClaro does.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> 
> 
> They look tight to me. Clasps are fastened.
> 
> After some playing around with it, I heard a pop from my psu and now it will only turn on once. The fan from the psu stays on though.
> 
> I uploaded a video if that helps...


Did you try reseting the bios and ensure the jumper pin was in the right spot?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> 
> 
> They look tight to me. Clasps are fastened.
> 
> After some playing around with it, I heard a pop from my psu and now it will only turn on once. The fan from the psu stays on though.
> 
> I uploaded a video if that helps...


pops from psus would scare me ..... a crappy, bad or faulty psu is the easiest way to suicide your wallet. and say good bye to your rig...


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Did you try reseting the bios and ensure the jumper pin was in the right spot?


I'm not sure how I would reset. I have tried to use the button on the back of the mobo and now the computer only turns on 1 time and then shuts off.


----------



## cadaveca

Push and hold power button for 5 seconds to ensure board is actually shut off(don't ask, just do.







)

Then, press and hold "MemOK" for 5 seconds. Board should boot up, with no display, cycling post codes as it tests memory to boot. Presuming everything is OK, board should boot.

if that fails, welcome to the "My ASUS RIVBE killed MY PSU" Clubhouse.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> qcktthfm1, I still might pull the TV card out & hang it off the R4BE in 1 of the lower pci slots. I have thin cardboard & black tape insulating the eClaro caps from the TV card. It's hard to see the cardboard. Plus the TV card generates more heat than the eClaro does.


Oh my goodness, is this final ??
Plz not ! Little more cablemanagement, uhhhhh can´t see at this pics...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I just finished installing my 2 loops for this monster and I'm running into a problem...
> 
> When I plug my psu in the motherboard illuminates, which is good
> When I press the power button, all the fans and lights turn on for a second and then turn off
> If I don't cut the power from the wall the computer jeeps cycling power.
> I unplugged all ram sticks, all video cards, and all fans. Simply left the 2 pumps plugged in as well as the mobo but the results were the same.
> 
> I tried a different power supply and a different wall outlet. Does anyone have any ideas?


I have had similar issues in the past. It's normally something really simple shorting out the board. On this board it was using the wrong cable in the wrong PSU. Try unplugging the molex to PCI-e.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Push and hold power button for 5 seconds to ensure board is actually shut off(don't ask, just do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Then, press and hold "MemOK" for 5 seconds. Board should boot up, with no display, cycling post codes as it tests memory to boot. Presuming everything is OK, board should boot.
> 
> if that fails, welcome to the "My ASUS RIVBE killed MY PSU" Clubhouse.


I did that. But now it's just completely crazy. The psu won't turn on at all when I'm using my lepa 1600. If I plug in my Silverstone strider 1500 It turns off and on like it did before but I have the cpu led light turning on when the computer does...I don't like that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have had similar issues in the past. It's normally something really simple shorting out the board. On this board it was using the wrong cable in the wrong PSU. Try unplugging the molex to PCI-e.


The only 3 cables that are plugged in are the 24 pin the 8 pin and the 4 pin. I unplugged the molex a while ago


----------



## cadaveca

I'd try re-seating the CPU and making sure all the stuff is plugged in properly. Other than that, it could just simply be a compatibility issue, although I don't know ASUS boards to commonly have such problems..that's normally an ASRock issue, for me.









I seem to recall you posting about similar issues with other boards, too? Your VGAs need cables, too, no?


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I'd try re-seating the CPU and making sure all the stuff is plugged in properly. Other than that, it could just simply be a compatibility issue, although I don't know ASUS boards to commonly have such problems..that's normally an ASRock issue, for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seem to recall you posting about similar issues with other boards, too?


Funny you say that because my asrock extreme 11 was working perfectly fine!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I'd try re-seating the CPU and making sure all the stuff is plugged in properly. Other than that, it could just simply be a compatibility issue, although I don't know ASUS boards to commonly have such problems..that's normally an ASRock issue, for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seem to recall you posting about similar issues with other boards, too? Your VGAs need cables, too, no?


What PSU do you have?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Aida64 starts to push ads even to licensed user? seems it's ads for their new driver update tool.
can someone confirm this?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I did that. But now it's just completely crazy. The psu won't turn on at all when I'm using my lepa 1600. If I plug in my Silverstone strider 1500 It turns off and on like it did before but I have the cpu led light turning on when the computer does...I don't like that
> The only 3 cables that are plugged in are the 24 pin the 8 pin and the 4 pin. I unplugged the molex a while ago


So you blew up your lepa 1600. Do you have only one card plugged in? Also double check your CPU seatings.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Aida64 starts to push ads even to licensed user? seems it's ads for their new driver update tool.
> can someone confirm this?


No ads here.

I'm still using the ssd from the RE3 and I want to secure disk erase but my Samsung 840 pro isn't showing up in asus secure disk erase black bios. It's showing up in the bios but not in the secure disk erase part of it... Samsung Magician freezes now also so no secure disk erase there either.








I've got it plugged into a 6G sata port anyone had this?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> No ads here.
> 
> I'm still using the ssd from the RE3 and I want to secure disk erase but my Samsung 840 pro isn't showing up in asus secure disk erase black bios. It's showing up in the bios but not in the secure disk erase part of it... Samsung Magician freezes now also so no secure disk erase there either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got it plugged into a 6G sata port anyone had this?


click 'check update' several times to refresh.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> So you blew up your lepa 1600. Do you have only one card plugged in? Also double check your CPU seatings.


I'll kill someone if if the psu is dead...the 1st one that I got was doa.

Reseating that cpu is going to be a pain in the ass With draining the loop and the acrylic tube.


----------



## sidekisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just so you know you can upload pics directly using the picture icon above the editor then you dont have to attach them !
> welcome
> but i have to ask why can you not use watercooling on a RV ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the picture advice, I had been trying to figure that one out.
> 
> As far as the water cooling goes, I am reluctant to use it because I am worried about all the heavy bouncing this rv does and I'm worried about something breaking as it is, let alone introducing water into the mix.


----------



## chimaychanga

can I join the community











Ive got one more at my work that i need to return/sell


----------



## Raghar

I'm always saying use an air cooler, and test things before doing something drastic.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> click 'check update' several times to refresh.


Ok there is no update, lol


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Got the Black up and running finely! I planed on using just black Primochill ridged tubing but as you can see that didn't happen, I have to order more because a couple of the bends cracked fitting them not to mention I couldn't get one fitting to stop leaking.


I know what you talk about.. try hitting the tubes more time before banding for a little longer distance and for stop fittings to leaking you have to cut the tube right. As I banding UV Clear tubing for me was more easy to see any cracks, another solution should be black fluid.
Late in December I find my rig in the morning as a fish-tank and take me 36 hours to wash all components (mb, 4 titans...) with ultrasonic teeth brasher.







Guys DON'T use any non-conducive fluid when you build your rig with acrylic tubing. I was able to recover all my components by using Feser One F1. Good luck and don't give up, is looking very nice


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Aida64 starts to push ads even to licensed user? seems it's ads for their new driver update tool.
> can someone confirm this?


i am updated to the latest version and the driver update tool you speak of is websites ( or so it looks to me )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidekisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just so you know you can upload pics directly using the picture icon above the editor then you dont have to attach them !
> welcome
> but i have to ask why can you not use watercooling on a RV ?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the picture advice, I had been trying to figure that one out.
> 
> As far as the water cooling goes, I am reluctant to use it because I am worried about all the heavy bouncing this rv does and I'm worried about something breaking as it is, let alone introducing water into the mix.
Click to expand...

i would be more worried with big air as the size of a heatsink is far more weight then a cpu block
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> can I join the community
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ive got one more at my work that i need to sell return/sell


welcome !


----------



## striderstone

Do I get added even though mine is broken?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> What PSU do you have?


Was Antec TPQ-1200 OC. Now is in a landfill, and I need a new one. :0


----------



## Mega Man

he is going to buy a corsair 1200/1500 shilka !


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> he is going to buy a corsair 1200/1500 shilka !


Blah waste of money when you can get just as good cheaper or better for the same money

Cooler Master V1200 is what i look forward to as that one will be the AX1200 killer

The EVGA SuperNova G2 already is but now you have two options that are better value


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I know what you talk about.. try hitting the tubes more time before banding for a little longer distance and for stop fittings to leaking you have to cut the tube right. As I banding UV Clear tubing for me was more easy to see any cracks, another solution should be black fluid.
> Late in December I find my rig in the morning as a fish-tank and take me 36 hours to wash all components (mb, 4 titans...) with ultrasonic teeth brasher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guys DON'T use any non-conducive fluid when you build your rig with acrylic tubing. I was able to recover all my components by using Feser One F1. Good luck and don't give up, is looking very nice


thanks buddy









Hey are you the slinky guy that was on the letterman show?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I just finished installing my 2 loops for this monster and I'm running into a problem...
> 
> When I plug my psu in the motherboard illuminates, which is good
> When I press the power button, all the fans and lights turn on for a second and then turn off
> If I don't cut the power from the wall the computer jeeps cycling power.
> I unplugged all ram sticks, all video cards, and all fans. Simply left the 2 pumps plugged in as well as the mobo but the results were the same.
> 
> I tried a different power supply and a different wall outlet. Does anyone have any ideas?


You should also try to remove the battery from the MB for 5 minutes or so, Remove all your ram and try to use only one or two as the manual show.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> You should also try to remove the battery from the MB for 5 minutes or so, Remove all your ram and try to use only one or two as the manual show.


I tried 0 sticks and 1 stick, just trying to get a beep code but same thing.

I wanted to avoid taking out the 4 gpus as they are under water


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I know what you talk about.. try hitting the tubes more time before banding for a little longer distance and for stop fittings to leaking you have to cut the tube right. As I banding UV Clear tubing for me was more easy to see any cracks, another solution should be black fluid.
> Late in December I find my rig in the morning as a fish-tank and take me 36 hours to wash all components (mb, 4 titans...) with ultrasonic teeth brasher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guys DON'T use any non-conducive fluid when you build your rig with acrylic tubing. I was able to recover all my components by using Feser One F1. Good luck and don't give up, is looking very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey are you the slinky guy that was on the letterman show?
Click to expand...

You Welcome!
You talking about Late Show with David Letterman in October 1st 1997 right?!!








There is only one 



-video


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> You should also try to remove the battery from the MB for 5 minutes or so, Remove all your ram and try to use only one or two as the manual show.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried 0 sticks and 1 stick, just trying to get a beep code but same thing.
> 
> I wanted to avoid taking out the 4 gpus as they are under water
Click to expand...

Did you take off the battery from the motherboard for same minutes? Using a magnetic screwdriver will help you.
P.S. Disconnect all GPU cables and use only one GPU one ram. Also You will be able to test one by one your GPUs with the switcher on/off down of the reset button, use only one at the time in position ON. The beeps number will let you know what is broken, can be the gpu, ram, cpu or mb.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I tried 0 sticks and 1 stick, just trying to get a beep code but same thing.
> 
> I wanted to avoid taking out the 4 gpus as they are under water


I had that power cycling problem which I noted near the beginning of this thread and skupples had tried to help me. Another OCN member also came in reporting the same issue. Only way we resolved it was by RMA'ing the board sadly. All the same components with new board and it worked fine.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I tried 0 sticks and 1 stick, just trying to get a beep code but same thing.
> 
> I wanted to avoid taking out the 4 gpus as they are under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had that power cycling problem which I noted near the beginning of this thread and skupples had tried to help me. Another OCN member also came in reporting the same issue. Only way we resolved it was by RMA'ing the board sadly. All the same components with new board and it worked fine.
Click to expand...

When you RMA yours MB you should also RMA your CPU


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Did you take off the battery from the motherboard for same minutes? Using a magnetic screwdriver will help you.
> P.S. Disconnect all GPU cables and use only one GPU one ram. Also You will be able to test one by one your GPUs with the switcher on/off down of the reset button, use only one at the time in position ON. The beeps number will let you know what is broken, can be the gpu, ram, cpu or mb.


I had all 4 dip switches turned off and no ram in the board









I would rma both but I've had the cpu for about a year now too. I don't think I can rma the board though because I'm dumb enough to block it before testing it


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Did you take off the battery from the motherboard for same minutes? Using a magnetic screwdriver will help you.
> P.S. Disconnect all GPU cables except one GPU and one ram. Also You will be able to test one by one your GPUs with the switcher on/off down of the reset button, use only one at the time in position ON. The beeps number will let you know what is broken, can be the gpu, ram, cpu or mb.
> 
> 
> 
> I had all 4 dip switches turned off and no ram in the board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would rma both but I've had the cpu for about a year now too. I don't think I can rma the board though because I'm dumb enough to block it before testing it
Click to expand...

Sorry for my English brother..."Disconnect all GPU cables except one GPU" You have to have 1 ram and 1 gpu on motherboard to start your computer.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Sorry for my English brother..."Disconnect all GPU cables except one GPU" You have to have 1 ram and 1 gpu on motherboard to start your computer.


Yeah I tried that







I'll so the cos battery tomorrow


----------



## USFORCES

Asus secure erase, Some reason my 840 pro doesn't show up? I wanted to wipe it with the new board and for some reason it don't work neither does Samsung Magician... Another thing that has happened twice now my DVD drive takes on as UEFI and I have to disconnect it.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Asus secure erase, Some reason my 840 pro doesn't show up? I wanted to wipe it with the new board and for some reason it don't work neither does Samsung Magician... Another thing that has happened twice now my DVD drive takes on as UEFI and I have to disconnect it.


Use Parted Magic, that's what I use:

*http://www.majorgeeks.com/mg/getmirror/parted_magic,1.html*


----------



## USFORCES

Thanks buddy









I couldn't find the free version


----------



## sidekisk

i would be more worried with big air as the size of a heatsink is far more weight then a cpu block
welcome ![/quote]

I did go with a Seidon 120XL for CPU cooling and am planing on picking up a Kraken X60. This being a sealed loop I shouldn't have to worry to much about leakage. I was also thinking that once I get my 3 GTX 780Ti's I might try to fit 3 more Kraken X60 with 3 Kraken X10's. If there is room between the GPU's and if the hoses are long enough to be able to mount the X60's.


----------



## skupples

The Human blowfish was the downfall of The Human Slinky.


----------



## Ftimster

So quickly back to the reading of the vcore if bios is set manually to 1.345 and cpuz is showing 1.360 at idle and at load obviously trust the BIOS reading right? Thanks


----------



## skupples

btw, newest CPU-Z likes to read 1.440 vcore even when i'm @ 1.4 w/ "high" LLC... While everything else reads 1.36-1.405... I'm going to stick my DMM on it this week when I pull the case out... anyone know if I can stick metal clamps onto the end of my multi-meter probes & still retain accurate readings? I would be using those typical small "science lab" clips.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The Human blowfish was the downfall of The Human Slinky.


Hahaha.. not the human blowfish, "veniamin's eyes" was








P.S. I still performing, but this is 1 of my hobbies


----------



## qcktthfm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> 
> qcktthfm1, I still might pull the TV card out & hang it off the R4BE in 1 of the lower pci slots. I have thin cardboard & black tape insulating the eClaro caps from the TV card. It's hard to see the cardboard. Plus the TV card generates more heat than the eClaro does.


Your 2 cards sandwich inbetween SLI are really tight there lol
Any update pix?
I'll post mine when I get my flexible cable







Thank you Dantrax!


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I bent my primochill black acrylic free-hand over a heatgun with cotton gloves on. Monsoon has a bending kit with different angled mandrels to help bending... but the kit wasn't out when I was working on my loop. I couldn't wait any longer to finish... so I did it free-hand. I don't think the monsoon kit would have worked for some of my tight bends anyway. Just search "
> 
> 
> 
> " in YouTube if you want to see how to bend acrylic.


Hi man, I have several questions.
1. so you also put soft rubber tube inside acrylic tube as shown in the video?
2. what's the purpose of putting soft rubber tube inside acrylic tube? Why cannot fill water to acrylic tube directly?
3. can we soften and bend any acrylic tubes by heating them up, or this one from primochill is special?
4. I love your rig, can you post more photos?


----------



## CerN

Has anyone reached higher OC's with the new UEFI? What about BCLK clocks? I can't even increase mine to 100.1 without BSOD's.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Hi man, I have several questions.
> 1. so you also put soft rubber tube inside acrylic tube as shown in the video?
> 2. what's the purpose of putting soft rubber tube inside acrylic tube? Why cannot fill water to acrylic tube directly?
> 3. can we soften and bend any acrylic tubes by heating them up, or this one from primochill is special?
> 4. I love your rig, can you post more photos?


Acrylic pipebending 101
http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/

Everything you might want to know about acrylic tubing can be found in that thread, and most everything you need to know is touched upon in the first post.

Any acrylic tubing can be used as long as you have the appropriate fittings for it, and it all can be bent similarly with a heat gun.
The insert is used to keep the inside from collapsing when you try to bend the tube. It helps the tube keep a round shape throughout the bend instead of flattening out.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Acrylic pipebending 101
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/
> 
> Everything you might want to know about acrylic tubing can be found in that thread, and most everything you need to know is touched upon in the first post.
> 
> Any acrylic tubing can be used as long as you have the appropriate fittings for it, and it all can be bent similarly with a heat gun.
> The insert is used to keep the inside from collapsing when you try to bend the tube. It helps the tube keep a round shape throughout the bend instead of flattening out.


you mean that soft rubber tube can be removed after bending the tube?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> you mean that soft rubber tube can be removed after bending the tube?


Sure, as long as the upper tube will not develop cracks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> you mean that soft rubber tube can be removed after bending the tube?


Yes, you just use one bending cord over and over and over.

I'm using Primochill's tubing and fittings, and initially was using their bending cord, but found that 9MM Buna-N O-Ring Cord from McMaster-Carr (part #9679K27) works much better. (H/T Darlene / IT Diva)

I put a tiny dab of silicone grease, the kind scuba divers use on o-rings - on the bending cord every now and then to help it slide in/out more easily. Primochill recommends using olive oil, but the consensus in the Acrylic pipebending 101 thread has been that it's not such a good idea to introduce biological impurities into your loop like that.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Is anyone running reference Nvidia like the 780 or Titan on this board? If so how are the temps on the cards with the slot space between the 2 cards?


----------



## A7xConnor

Just got mine this morning







I'll upload a picture at some point.

Just wondering, how much have any UK owners been paying for this board?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Is anyone running reference Nvidia like the 780 or Titan on this board? If so how are the temps on the cards with the slot space between the 2 cards?


temps are fine with two cards. I was running two reference cards and an MSI gaming card in the middle for a couple of days without any real problems either, other than the noise.









With my PSU dead now, I've only got one card running now, and went back to 7970. Gonna go with tri-780ti, but gotta save a bit more cash first.


----------



## rivbe01

hi,

i had a couple of questions, this is not my first build but it is the first one i have decided to sink a lot of money into.
on saynig that i thought i would ask the question on what memory i should get for this board as i do not want to buy something that is inferiors just to save a few quid.

my rig will be used mainly for gaiming with a secondary use of video editing and rendering

i thought of going with a 32gb or 64gb kit

my main questons regarding this are

1) 32gb or 64gb
2) if i go with 64gb whould it matter that much if i brought 2 of the exact same kits in 32gb
3) i dont want to leave any empty slots (i think it looks ugly personal opinion) so if i get a 32gb kit is there any 8x4gb kits (i could not find any decent kits)
4) what speed would be best (standard not overclocked) for both a 32gb kit and 64gb kit

my budget is about £700 +/- £100

Thanks for the help.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

I shall be with you tomorrow brothers. Never buying a sabertooth i can tell you that


----------



## skupples

Anyone know if the new X79 deluxe has the same mosfet/vrm layout as this board? They look similar... EK only sells the VRM channel for that mobo by it's self.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> can I join the community
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ive got one more at my work that i need to return/sell


Pretty sure I added you looooooooooooooooooooong ago lol but re-grats/welcome!!!


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rivbe01*
> 
> hi,
> 
> i had a couple of questions, this is not my first build but it is the first one i have decided to sink a lot of money into.
> on saynig that i thought i would ask the question on what memory i should get for this board as i do not want to buy something that is inferiors just to save a few quid.
> 
> my rig will be used mainly for gaiming with a secondary use of video editing and rendering
> 
> i thought of going with a 32gb or 64gb kit
> 
> my main questons regarding this are
> 
> 1) 32gb or 64gb
> 2) if i go with 64gb whould it matter that much if i brought 2 of the exact same kits in 32gb
> 3) i dont want to leave any empty slots (i think it looks ugly personal opinion) so if i get a 32gb kit is there any 8x4gb kits (i could not find any decent kits)
> 4) what speed would be best (standard not overclocked) for both a 32gb kit and 64gb kit
> 
> my budget is about £700 +/- £100
> 
> Thanks for the help.


It's over kill but I'm running 64gb it's only been a couple of days but so far so good all 64gb shows up and have even been bench testing with it but run it at 9-10-10-28 1866Mhz when doing so.
When set to xmp it runs at 11-13-13-31 2400MHz as advertised which is good because I've read some ram only shows 50GB when doing advertised speed on this board. I plan on using a bit of it for ramdisk since it comes with the board.









This is the ram I'm using.


----------



## striderstone

Just ordered my 2nd board...Mental note...if you want to keep the shroud on the I/O port, MAKE SURE TO TEST THE BOARD'S FUNCTIONALITY before you cut the heat pipe.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> Just ordered my 2nd board...Mental note...if you want to keep the shroud on the I/O port, MAKE SURE TO TEST THE BOARD'S FUNCTIONALITY before you cut the heat pipe.


Sounds like something may have gone a bit wrong


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Sounds like something may have gone a bit wrong


Seems to be a known problem with the board according to other people and forums.
It's not like I cut the heat pipe when it was attached to the board lol


----------



## USFORCES

My pipe started to come out then broke








Oh well at least the board is running good and coming from a 4yr old x58 RE3 I'm not to concerned.


----------



## skupples

so... was just dusting out the rig, (while it was on)... something strange happened. I accidentally bumped into one of my memory sticks, & the whole system shut down. I then tapped it again, & it turned back on... All 32 gb are still registering, so i didn't kill the stick, & priming @ 99% memory capacity is running just fine.... any ideas?


----------



## USFORCES

My guess it must of lost contact for a second, note to self don't bump the ram when board is running.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> My guess it must of lost contact for a second, note to self don't bump the ram when board is running.


yeaaaahhh.... Freaked the hell out of me. I obviously caused a short... Iv'e never experienced this before. Makes me question how good the contacts are between the stick & the slot.


----------



## rabidz7

You are freaking lucky! I toasted ram slots on my G5 once. Had to solder the slots back on and get an 800$ DDR2 1x8GB chip. RAM is not hotpluggable!!!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> You are freaking lucky! I toasted ram slots on my G5 once. Had to solder the slots back on and get an 800$ DDR2 1x8GB chip. RAM is not hotpluggable!!!!


yeah... I felt a 100$ bill burning in my wallet the moment it turned off.


----------



## USFORCES

4960X Batch# 3334B797 5010MHz 1.44V
http://valid.canardpc.com/1nt8dq


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 4960X Batch# 3334B797 5010MHz 1.44V
> http://valid.canardpc.com/1nt8dq


Stable?


----------



## SeanEboy

Probably a silly place to ask this question.. However, I am debating selecting this board for my build... I have listed what I've chosen so far, below... Would you recommend I go for this board? I have a 3930k that we've benched at 5.1, so I know it's capable... I just want to pair it with a deserving mobo. Thoughts on this? I also have yet to select ram... This will all be under water.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

*CPU:* Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $440.00)
*Storage:* Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (Purchased For $170.00)
*Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card ($769.99 @ Amazon)
*Case:* Corsair 900D ATX Full Tower Case ($307.99 @ Newegg)
*Power Supply:* SeaSonic Platinum 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($183.98 @ SuperBiiz)
*Optical Drive:* Asus BW-16D1HT Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($80.98 @ Newegg)
*Operating System:* Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($109.99 @ Dell Small Business)
*Total:* $2062.93
_(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)_
_(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-21 10:04 EST-0500)_


----------



## skupples

looks good.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> looks good.


Agree with the above. What ram will you be using


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Agree with the above. What ram will you be using


Yeah plus it leaves you some headroom for upgrades over the next couple years.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Agree with the above. What ram will you be using


I honestly don't know which ram to go with.. I will basically be using this to play BF4, along with various other tasks, but clearly BF4 will be the most demanding... I've heard that BF4 likes the faster ram, so I was thinking of going with something on the higher end... Who's up there? G.Skill, Corsair?


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> I honestly don't know which ram to go with.. I will basically be using this to play BF4, along with various other tasks, but clearly BF4 will be the most demanding... I've heard that BF4 likes the faster ram, so I was thinking of going with something on the higher end... Who's up there? G.Skill, Corsair?


Pick something off of the compatibility list then go off of aesthetics. RAM is pretty much whatever at this point as long as it's reliable and works with the mobo.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> I honestly don't know which ram to go with.. I will basically be using this to play BF4, along with various other tasks, but clearly BF4 will be the most demanding... I've heard that BF4 likes the faster ram, so I was thinking of going with something on the higher end... Who's up there? G.Skill, Corsair?


I've got 32GB of viper3s running at 2133 with my 3930k and RIVBE. The IMC has some issues running at 5GHz and pushing the memory above 2133, your chip may be better than mine. It does really come down to your sense of aesthetics. A lot of BE club members have chosen tridents or dominator platinum, but they also (usually) have 4930k or 4960x cpus that can handle higher memory frequencies.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I've got 32GB of viper3s running at 2133 with my 3930k and RIVBE. The IMC has some issues running at 5GHz and pushing the memory above 2133, your chip may be better than mine. It does really come down to your sense of aesthetics. A lot of BE club members have chosen tridents or dominator platinum, but they also (usually) have 4930k or 4960x cpus that can handle higher memory frequencies.


Interesting you say that.. I might be engaging in a trade for a 4930k.... I probably wouldn't bother going for the 4930k, but I have something that is proving hard to sell, and this guy offered it in trade, so perhaps I'll just sell off the 4930k and stick with the 3930k... But, going for higher ram might be a smart choice, at least just in case...


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rivbe01*
> 
> hi,
> 
> i had a couple of questions, this is not my first build but it is the first one i have decided to sink a lot of money into.
> on saynig that i thought i would ask the question on what memory i should get for this board as i do not want to buy something that is inferiors just to save a few quid.
> 
> my rig will be used mainly for gaiming with a secondary use of video editing and rendering
> 
> i thought of going with a 32gb or 64gb kit
> 
> my main questons regarding this are
> 
> 1) 32gb or 64gb
> 2) if i go with 64gb whould it matter that much if i brought 2 of the exact same kits in 32gb
> 3) i dont want to leave any empty slots (i think it looks ugly personal opinion) so if i get a 32gb kit is there any 8x4gb kits (i could not find any decent kits)
> 4) what speed would be best (standard not overclocked) for both a 32gb kit and 64gb kit
> 
> my budget is about £700 +/- £100
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Hello guys, I'm in the same condition rivbe01, I should mount 32GB 8x4GB 'cause I'd like to fill all the slots, but I have heard many users complaining about problems if you fill all the slots for the overhead of the chipset that manages .. I would like to mount these: http://www.corsair.com/en/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-5v-16-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd16gx3m4a1866c9.html
2 kits of course .. As I have i7 4930K processor how about some advice? thanks


----------



## LunaP

Anyone with a 4960X and or 4930k mind posting your settings for 4.5+?

As well as anyone w/ 64gb of Trident X 2400

I had to reset since I think I set all the settings incorrectly and would love to see a good baseline config for starters. I don't want to use the profiles since they default to 1.4v automatically.

Looking to just push around 4.5 for now on the CPU but definitely get my memory @ 2400 or at least 2133 vs 1333.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rivbe01*
> 
> hi,
> 
> i had a couple of questions, this is not my first build but it is the first one i have decided to sink a lot of money into.
> on saynig that i thought i would ask the question on what memory i should get for this board as i do not want to buy something that is inferiors just to save a few quid.
> 
> my rig will be used mainly for gaiming with a secondary use of video editing and rendering
> 
> i thought of going with a 32gb or 64gb kit
> 
> my main questons regarding this are
> 
> 1) 32gb or 64gb
> 2) if i go with 64gb whould it matter that much if i brought 2 of the exact same kits in 32gb
> 3) i dont want to leave any empty slots (i think it looks ugly personal opinion) so if i get a 32gb kit is there any 8x4gb kits (i could not find any decent kits)
> 4) what speed would be best (standard not overclocked) for both a 32gb kit and 64gb kit
> 
> my budget is about £700 +/- £100
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> 
> Hello guys, I'm in the same condition rivbe01, I should mount 32GB 8x4GB 'cause I'd like to fill all the slots, but I have heard many users complaining about problems if you fill all the slots for the overhead of the chipset that manages .. I would like to mount these: http://www.corsair.com/en/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-5v-16-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd16gx3m4a1866c9.html
> 2 kits of course .. As I have i7 4930K processor how about some advice? thanks
Click to expand...

I have 32GB (two set of CMD16GX3M4A2400C9) Dominator 2400MHz CL9 (if interested) it is one of the best ram around and very rare to find it. Can be used on R4BE at 2800MHz CL 11.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I have 32GB (two set of CMD16GX3M4A2400C9) Dominator 2400MHz CL9 (if interested) it is one of the best ram around and very rare to find it. Can be used on R4BE at 2800MHz CL 11.


The Trident Series are the same IC's and about 150-200$ less than the Dominators which is the most popular so far with most people. The only reason I can see paying the 200$ is for aesthetics at this point.


----------



## rivbe01

i think i may have finaly narrowed it down to 2

corsair dominator 64gb kit

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/64gb-%288x8gb%29-corsair-ddr3-dominator-platinum-pc3-17066-%282133%29-non-ecc-unbuffered-cas-9-11-11-31-dhx-?utm_source=google+shopping&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CNbJrsGokLwCFQ3ItAodnxgAMQ

or i may go with 2 4x4gb kits of this avexir core

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-061-AR

if anyone else has any recomendations i would love to hear them.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> The Trident Series are the same IC's and about 150-200$ less than the Dominators which is the most popular so far with most people. The only reason I can see paying the 200$ is for aesthetics at this point.


I would say Dominators are 150-200$ more than Trident Series as Corsair got the best Samsung ICs with highest binning level, while gskill got the best HY MFR ICs


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I have 32GB (two set of CMD16GX3M4A2400C9) Dominator 2400MHz CL9 (if interested) it is one of the best ram around and very rare to find it. Can be used on R4BE at 2800MHz CL 11.


As shown in ebay photos, this kit is made of Micron ICs, you sure they can do 2800cl11?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I have 32GB (two set of CMD16GX3M4A2400C9) Dominator 2400MHz CL9 (if interested) it is one of the best ram around and very rare to find it. Can be used on R4BE at 2800MHz CL 11.
> 
> 
> 
> The Trident Series are the same IC's and about 150-200$ less than the Dominators which is the most popular so far with most people. The only reason I can see paying the 200$ is for aesthetics at this point.
Click to expand...

I agree only with the price read my signature please, my MemTweakIt record was with those 8 sticks before moving to 32GB 3,000MHz.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Has anyone experienced extremely long waiting time during POST?
i have to watch ASUS ROG logo for about 30sec (set to display logo for only 1sec in BIOS). This problem is developed very recently, my best guess it's caused by some changes in BIOS settings?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I would say Dominators are 150-200$ more than Trident Series as Corsair got the best Samsung ICs with highest binning level, while gskill got the best HY MFR ICs


They're the same lol, cadaveca and a few reviews already pointed it out.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> They're the same lol, cadaveca and a few reviews already pointed it out.


it's the same IC, but the best of best was shipped to Corsair


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> it's the same IC, but the best of best was shipped to Corsair


False marketing







aimed at people that don't really read up.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> False marketing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> aimed at people that don't really read up.


you believe reviews published online or info. from my buddy working in PC industry in Taiwan?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I have 32GB (two set of CMD16GX3M4A2400C9) Dominator 2400MHz CL9 (if interested) it is one of the best ram around and very rare to find it. Can be used on R4BE at 2800MHz CL 11.
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in ebay photos, this kit is made of Micron ICs, you sure they can do 2800cl11?
Click to expand...

If water-cooled CMD16GX3M4A2400C9 will give you almost the same results as I do right now with $2,800 G.Skill 3,000Mhz CL12
You will be able to use it @ 2800MHz CL11, I use my G.Skill @ 2800 CL10.
I will give you the configuration and if don't works you are welcome to send it back, not a problem


----------



## skupples

the 2400mhz trident kits can come in both Hynix, & Sammy.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> you believe reviews published online or info. from my buddy working in PC industry in Taiwan?


I believe tech savy people that actually work with the hardware and understand the dynamics and components, this has come from various credible sources, reviews, and hands on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the 2400mhz trident kits can come in both Hynix, & Sammy.


Pretty much this ^^^^^


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> If water-cooled CMD16GX3M4A2400C9 will give you almost the same results as I do right now with $2,800 G.Skill 3,000Mhz CL12
> You will be able to use it @ 2800MHz CL11, I use my G.Skill @ 2800 CL10.
> I will give you the configuration and if don't works you are welcome to send it back, not a problem


why bother pursuing high memory freq? It's pointless. Can you get three 70KMb/s or more for read/ write/ copy in aida64 memory bandwidth test ?
It's well-known performance sweet point for 24/7 with air-cooling is 2666c10 with extremely tight second and third timing.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the 2400mhz trident kits can come in both Hynix, & Sammy.


2400c10 is HY IC, 2400c9 is Sammy HCH9
Timing is determined by the nature of ICs


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> it's the same IC, but the best of best was shipped to Corsair
> 
> 
> 
> False marketing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> aimed at people that don't really read up.
Click to expand...


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I believe tech savy people that actually work with the hardware and understand the dynamics and components, this has come from various credible sources, reviews, and hands on.
> Pretty much this ^^^^^


Yes, they can dismantle the kit during the review and I agree they both use HCH9 IC, question is how to tell ICs used in Corsair is cherry-picked or not?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> You will get what you pay for.
> Buy the chip one and see you in MemTweakIt Global Leaderboard. You will don't reach score 120000. Also at this point I don't see any G.Skill in the first 20 scores maybe you will be the first but not with 2400MHz CL9 more like 2600HGz CL9 or beater. Just my opinion, but for big results don't forget you will need to pay baby


Yet G.Skill leads in the market as the worlds best OC'er. Again Corsair is just Overpriced you're paying for the name but the same quality as the G.Skill.

If paying the extra few hundred makes you feel better , then more power to you, I know I did the same for my 4960X vs the 4930 but only due to actually validating from an actual intel rep on the process for them, and even then it was more of just a safer mindset that's all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Yes, they can dismantle the kit during the review and I agree they both use HCH9 IC, *question is how to tell ICs used in Corsair is cherry-picked or not?*


Well, can you?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> If water-cooled CMD16GX3M4A2400C9 will give you almost the same results as I do right now with $2,800 G.Skill 3,000Mhz CL12
> You will be able to use it @ 2800MHz CL11, I use my G.Skill @ 2800 CL10.
> I will give you the configuration and if don't works you are welcome to send it back, not a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why bother pursuing high memory freq? It's pointless. Can you get three 70KMb/s or more for read/ write/ copy in aida64 memory bandwidth test ?
> It's well-known performance sweet point for 24/7 with air-cooling is 2666c10 with extremely tight second and third timing.
Click to expand...


----------



## skupples

I'm curious how many of the people in the top 10 memtweakit leaderboard have tried tridentX? I don't really care. I went for the trident 2400mhz c9 because i had a coupon, & don't look to do more besides rated speeds.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> You will get what you pay for.
> Buy the chip one and see you in MemTweakIt Global Leaderboard. You will don't reach score 120000. Also at this point I don't see any G.Skill in the first 20 scores maybe you will be the first but not with 2400MHz CL9 more like 2600HGz CL9 or beater. Just my opinion, but for big results don't forget you will need to pay baby


personally MemTweakIt scores are pointless, from technical point of views, comparison of memory bandwidth is more reasonable as it directly reflects the impact of RAM overclocking to your computer performace. In other word, DRAM settings that give high MemTweakIt scores =/= DRAM settings that give best performance. Hence, MemTweakIt scores are pointless


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yet G.Skill leads in the market as the worlds best OC'er. Again Corsair is just Overpriced you're paying for the name but the same quality as the G.Skill.
> 
> If paying the extra few hundred makes you feel better , then more power to you, I know I did the same for my 4960X vs the 4930 but only due to actually validating from an actual intel rep on the process for them, and even then it was more of just a safer mindset that's all.
> Well, can you?


I don't know, according to the info from my buddy, Corsair got the best Sammy ICs
Have you heard that Corsair 2666c10 contain a layer of unobtainium?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I don't know, according to the info from my buddy, Corsair got the best Sammy ICs


Please use Edit when updating posts as well as the multi button to avoid spamming thanks!









1 Person can't justify the 30% premium cost IMO, again it's up to however people want their systems to look, just the person was asking for suggestions on good RAM and there's NOTHING wrong w/ G.Skill and price/performance wise they are perfect for their cost vs the CD's


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Please use Edit when updating posts as well as the multi button to avoid spamming thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 Person can't justify the 30% premium cost IMO, again it's up to however people want their systems to look, just the person was asking for suggestions on good RAM and there's NOTHING wrong w/ G.Skill and price/performance wise they are perfect for their cost vs the CD's


Corsair 2666c10 is the one (or one of those) used in ASUS IDF event to break world records.
Have you heard that Corsair 2666c10 contain a layer of unobtainium?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> You will get what you pay for.
> Buy the chip one and see you in MemTweakIt Global Leaderboard. You will don't reach score 120000. Also at this point I don't see any G.Skill in the first 20 scores maybe you will be the first but not with 2400MHz CL9 more like 2600HGz CL9 or beater. Just my opinion, but for big results don't forget you will need to pay baby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> personally MemTweakIt scores are pointless, from technical point of views, comparison of memory bandwidth is more reasonable as it directly reflects the impact of RAM overclocking to your computer performace. In other word, DRAM settings that give high MemTweakIt scores =/= DRAM settings that give best performance. Hence, MemTweakIt scores are pointless
Click to expand...


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> what a stupid statement... sir


please post your best aida64 memory bandwidth test results? Don't forget what is the purpose of overclocking DRAM.


----------



## Raghar

So are your overclocking stable 24/7?

Also Corsair RAM sucks.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> what a stupid statement... sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please post your best aida64 memory bandwidth test results? Don't forget what is the purpose of overclocking DRAM.
Click to expand...


----------



## kpoeticg

LOL, that definitely sounded more like a request than an order


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> So are your overclocking stable 24/7?
> 
> Also Corsair RAM sucks.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> LOL, that definitely sounded more like a request than an order


what·so·ev·er? do you see his AIDA64 benchmark








P.S. The benchmarks are for overclockers, I am an artist. BTW I will never post that.
I come here to give you guys an idea how to build a pc... (because I make more there 5/year) but as you are already know who sucks or not I prefer to stay away of your comments. My post don't have nothing to do with you kpoeticg







I'm logging out


----------



## Dantrax

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104376 -I'm using these at their rated speeds, timings & voltage. I Mem Tested them & I have yet to have a problem with Kingston HyperX ram, so I'm sticking with what works for me. I bought a G Skill kit & 3 out of 4 sticks were NFG. I'm sorry GSkill but you won't get my $$$ any more. I'll try OC my ram later on.


----------



## kpoeticg

PPC just started selling the RIVE BE =)

First item in their New Products section

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39962&zenid=7f83b7bb5a85f2b2863fce8430e7400d


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> PPC just started selling the RIVE BE =)
> First item in their New Products section
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39962&zenid=7f83b7bb5a85f2b2863fce8430e7400d


For a second there I thought that there was a new PowerPC (ppc) RIVBE.


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Anyone with a 4960X and or 4930k mind posting your settings for 4.5+?
> 
> As well as anyone w/ 64gb of Trident X 2400
> 
> I had to reset since I think I set all the settings incorrectly and would love to see a good baseline config for starters. I don't want to use the profiles since they default to 1.4v automatically.
> 
> Looking to just push around 4.5 for now on the CPU but definitely get my memory @ 2400 or at least 2133 vs 1333.


1.375V 4.7GHz


----------



## Heracles

Im not trying to be rude but SlinkyPC hust gives me a headache in this thread and the acrylic acrylic pipebending 101 where he called B Neg out......

Side note:

Wouldn't mind learning more about DRAM overclocking since I've only really just used XMP


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> 1.375V 4.7GHz


Looking for 4.5 or lower, and what about all the other settings? Mainly just looking to know what settings I need to mess with since there's no direct multiplier like I had on my GB


----------



## striderstone

Well...darn these ek mobo blocks. Shorted my board T_T


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> Well...darn these ek mobo blocks. Shorted my board T_T


Is this your second replacement RIVB3?

You don't have an ex that practices voodoo / black witchcraft do you?

Just asking because you seem to have the worst luck I've ever seen. I feel bad for you.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Is this your second replacement RIVB3?
> 
> You don't have an ex that practices voodoo / black witchcraft do you?
> 
> Just asking because you seem to have the worst luck I've ever seen. I feel bad for you.


My 2nd one just came in today. I took my old one apart to replace it and I found this...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> My 2nd one just came in today. I took my old one apart to replace it and I found this...


That's bad. Did the battery leak? or did something burn?


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That's bad. Did the battery leak? or did something burn?


Mobo block leaked o to the battery and shorted it.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> Mobo block leaked o to the battery and shorted it.


Dang. Was it an EK block?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> My 2nd one just came in today. I took my old one apart to replace it and I found this...


Oh thankfully that wasn't the new board. That's your CMOS battery isn't it? Weird, but that probably explains all the issues you were having.

Once you make sure the new board works, don't suppose you're going to take the I/O cover with intact heatpipe from it (assuming you are going to still try to mount blocks on it) and mount it to the old board and try to RMA it? It'd be worth a try wouldn't it? I'm pretty sure I would.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Oh thankfully that wasn't the new board. That's your CMOS battery isn't it? Weird, but that probably explains all the issues you were having.
> 
> Once you make sure the new board works, don't suppose you're going to take the I/O cover with intact heatpipe from it (assuming you are going to still try to mount blocks on it) and mount it to the old board and try to RMA it? It'd be worth a try wouldn't it? I'm pretty sure I would.


I am going to try to clean it up and rma it...but it's doubtful. I already filled out the rma form before I took it apart lol.

I am running some additional loop tests on my existing loop to pinpoint the leak. Gpus are looking good but the ek block is looking shady. I don't even know if I can rma that since it got burnt from the mobo shorting.

To be fair this could be 100% my fault since I haven't proven it to be the block. All the signs and the pools of water and staining point to the block but you never know


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> 1.375V 4.7GHz
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for 4.5 or lower, and what about all the other settings? Mainly just looking to know what settings I need to mess with since there's no direct multiplier like I had on my GB
Click to expand...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Hi LunaP.. I don't know about bios setup for 4.5 or lower (asus already give you that) but if you want to go highest in one day I upload my 5.2GHz complete bios setup in 10 pics.
> 
> Someone don't want me here I will go out.. for a well.












I said Asus gives a CRAP profile of 1.4 default LOL, thanks but I just want to get around 4.5 rofl. So no Asus doesn't have a profile built in haha. Thank you though.

I'm gonna reboot and save some images to my USB.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I said Asus gives a CRAP profile of 1.4 default LOL, thanks but I just want to get around 4.5 rofl. So no Asus doesn't have a profile built in haha. Thank you though.
> 
> I'm gonna reboot and save some images to my USB.
Click to expand...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> you don't need a school for that, go to CPU Level Up select 4.5GHz and *change the Dram frequency*


you mean the timings? And setting it to 4.5 it auto puts me @ 1.4v and I've NO idea what other settings it conflics/changes which is why I'm asking for good measure as I want to start @ 1.2 and work up to 1.375 and see if that nets me anything. I'm pretty sure I need to change more than just the Voltage.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I am going to try to clean it up and rma it...but it's doubtful. I already filled out the rma form before I took it apart lol.
> 
> I am running some additional loop tests on my existing loop to pinpoint the leak. Gpus are looking good but the ek block is looking shady. I don't even know if I can rma that since it got burnt from the mobo shorting.
> 
> To be fair this could be 100% my fault since I haven't proven it to be the block. All the signs and the pools of water and staining point to the block but you never know


woah... if the block is leaking from the seal I would contact EK & tell them that A.) the block seal is leaking, & that B.) it killed your 500$ motherboard.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Probably a silly place to ask this question.. However, I am debating selecting this board for my build... I have listed what I've chosen so far, below... Would you recommend I go for this board? I have a 3930k that we've benched at 5.1, so I know it's capable... I just want to pair it with a deserving mobo. Thoughts on this? I also have yet to select ram... This will all be under water.
> 
> PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
> 
> *CPU:* Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $440.00)
> *Storage:* Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (Purchased For $170.00)
> *Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card ($769.99 @ Amazon)
> *Case:* Corsair 900D ATX Full Tower Case ($307.99 @ Newegg)
> *Power Supply:* SeaSonic Platinum 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($183.98 @ SuperBiiz)
> *Optical Drive:* Asus BW-16D1HT Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($80.98 @ Newegg)
> *Operating System:* Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($109.99 @ Dell Small Business)
> *Total:* $2062.93
> _(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)_
> _(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-21 10:04 EST-0500)_


really up to you, RIVE or RIVBE imo, depends, if you dont need the built in wifi or Bluetooth then i would go RIVE but i went the BE for looks and better memory ocs
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Agree with the above. What ram will you be using
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly don't know which ram to go with.. I will basically be using this to play BF4, along with various other tasks, but clearly BF4 will be the most demanding... I've heard that BF4 likes the faster ram, so I was thinking of going with something on the higher end... Who's up there? G.Skill, Corsair?
Click to expand...

imo gskill
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> If water-cooled CMD16GX3M4A2400C9 will give you almost the same results as I do right now with $2,800 G.Skill 3,000Mhz CL12
> You will be able to use it @ 2800MHz CL11, I use my G.Skill @ 2800 CL10.
> I will give you the configuration and if don't works you are welcome to send it back, not a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why bother pursuing high memory freq? It's pointless. Can you get three 70KMb/s or more for read/ write/ copy in aida64 memory bandwidth test ?
> It's well-known performance sweet point for 24/7 with air-cooling is 2666c10 with extremely tight second and third timing.
Click to expand...

1 ram disk
2 better question why not ? i didnt spend 500 on a mobo to run 1600 cl9s on it...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the 2400mhz trident kits can come in both Hynix, & Sammy.
> 
> 
> 
> 2400c10 is HY CFR/MFR, 2400c9 is Sammy HCH9
> Timing is determined by the nature of ICs
Click to expand...

he is right they come in both
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> You will get what you pay for.
> Buy the chip one and see you in MemTweakIt Global Leaderboard. You will don't reach score 120000. Also at this point I don't see any G.Skill in the first 20 scores maybe you will be the first but not with 2400MHz CL9 more like 2600HGz CL9 or beater. Just my opinion, but for big results don't forget you will need to pay baby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yet G.Skill leads in the market as the worlds best OC'er. Again Corsair is just Overpriced you're paying for the name but the same quality as the G.Skill.
> 
> If paying the extra few hundred makes you feel better , then more power to you, I know I did the same for my 4960X vs the 4930 but only due to actually validating from an actual intel rep on the process for them, and even then it was more of just a safer mindset that's all.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Yes, they can dismantle the kit during the review and I agree they both use HCH9 IC, *question is how to tell ICs used in Corsair is cherry-picked or not?*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well, can you?
Click to expand...

hahaha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> I am going to try to clean it up and rma it...but it's doubtful. I already filled out the rma form before I took it apart lol.
> 
> I am running some additional loop tests on my existing loop to pinpoint the leak. Gpus are looking good but the ek block is looking shady. I don't even know if I can rma that since it got burnt from the mobo shorting.
> 
> To be fair this could be 100% my fault since I haven't proven it to be the block. All the signs and the pools of water and staining point to the block but you never know
> 
> 
> 
> woah... if the block is leaking from the seal I would contact EK & tell them that A.) the block seal is leaking, & that B.) it killed your 500$ motherboard.
Click to expand...

ditto


----------



## massimo40mq

Guys anyone help me?


----------



## massimo40mq

Hello guys, I'm in the same condition rivbe01, I should mount 32GB 8x4GB 'cause I'd like to fill all the slots, but I have heard many users complaining about problems if you fill all the slots for the overhead of the chipset that manages .. I would like to mount these: http://www.corsair.com/en/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-5v-16-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd16gx3m4a1866c9.html
2 kits of course .. As I have i7 4930K processor how about some advice? thanks


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> Hello guys, I'm in the same condition rivbe01, I should mount 32GB 8x4GB 'cause I'd like to fill all the slots, but I have heard many users complaining about problems if you fill all the slots for the overhead of the chipset that manages .. I would like to mount these: http://www.corsair.com/en/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-5v-16-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd16gx3m4a1866c9.html
> 2 kits of course .. As I have i7 4930K processor how about some advice? thanks


I have 8x4Gb @ 2133 on my 3930k no problem. The only time I've heard of any issues is 8x8GB.

Edit: it would be easier on the IMC to run 4x8GB to get 32GB as opposed to 8x4GB. I've never seen it as a bad thing to only use half of the memory slots. I just happened to have 16GB of viper3s in my z77 build and I bought another matching 16GB kit to get 32GB since it was only $170 to double my capacity.


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> I have 8x4Gb @ 2133 on my 3930k no problem. The only time I've heard of any issues is 8x8GB.
> 
> Edit: it would be easier on the IMC to run 4x8GB to get 32GB as opposed to 8x4GB. I've never seen it as a bad thing to only use half of the memory slots. I just happened to have 16GB of viper3s in my z77 build and I bought another matching 16GB kit to get 32GB since it was only $170 to double my capacity.


I've heard of this forum also asus rog, but also others confirm that with all slots occupied there 'too much load on the IMC and then problems ... Let's hope so, then I'll take 'me too 8x4gb 2133 ..


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> I've heard of this forum also asus rog, but also others confirm that with all slots occupied there 'too much load on the IMC and then problems ... Let's hope so, then I'll take 'me too 8x4gb 2133 ..


It is harder on the IMC to populate every slot, but I've only heard of it not working at all for people running 64GB. I've never seen 8x4gb not working, at least not in this club. The IMC on Ivy-e is much stronger than SB-e and I'm running 8x4GB on my SB-e, should be no problem for you.

Edit: I'd put money down that you could get 2400 MHz on those with minor tweaking.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> who you think you are to give me program? BLOCKED


what did I say? Nobody gave you program. Good luck with your Slinky SUPERcomputer


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> It is harder on the IMC to populate every slot, but I've only heard of it not working at all for people running 64GB. I've never seen 8x4gb not working, at least not in this club. The IMC on Ivy-e is much stronger than SB-e and I'm running 8x4GB on my SB-e, should be no problem for you.
> 
> Edit: I'd put money down that you could get 2400 MHz on those with minor tweaking.


Ok thanks a lot Redshift 91, now I've taken a bit of fear that I had the choice .. Now I'll buy 'with safety ...


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> what·so·ev·er? do you see his AIDA64 benchmark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. The benchmarks are for overclockers, I am an artist. BTW I will never post that.
> I come here to give you guys an idea how to build a pc... (because I make more there 5/year) but as you are already know who sucks or not I prefer to stay away of your comments. My post don't have nothing to do with you kpoeticg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm logging out


I think my aida64 test result is OK, memory read/write/copy all reach 71k+ MB/s


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> Ok thanks a lot Redshift 91, now I've taken a bit of fear that I had the choice .. Now I'll buy 'with safety ...


Good luck. As with everything, your mileage may vary, but the IMC is the biggest advantage I've seen from Ivy-e over SB-e, should have plenty of strength for what you've picked out.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Hi LunaP.. I don't know about bios setup for 4.5 or lower (asus already give you that) but if you want to go highest in one day I upload my 5.2GHz complete bios setup in 10 pics.
> 
> Someone don't want me here I will go out.. for a well.


technically speaking, your VCCSA volt setting is near 1.5V. That will degrade your chip very fast.
VCCSA and VTT should be kept within 0.05v of each other as per Intels recommendations and aid stability.
VTT 2nd doesn't help overclocking too much, you don't need to push it that high.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> 1.375V 4.7GHz
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for 4.5 or lower, and what about all the other settings? Mainly just looking to know what settings I need to mess with since there's no direct multiplier like I had on my GB
Click to expand...

PM Sent with settings for 4.5ghz


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 ram disk
> 2 better question why not ? i didnt spend 500 on a mobo to run 1600 cl9s on it...


I'm talking about the communication channel between CPU and DRAM has a bandwidth of greater than 70KMB/S. Ram disk has nothing to do with it.
Remember the purpose of tweaking DRAM is to assist CPU working fast.

I did say sweet point is 2666Mhz, therefore, increasing DRAM freq from 1600(number given in your example) to 2666 will help boost the performance. Higher than that, especially 2933+ your system performance would severely degraded due to loose timing. There are a lot of reviews online which prove 3000mhz Dram works poorer than (or as good as, cann;t remember exactly) a 2133.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> PM Sent with settings for 4.5ghz


Got it thanks, I'll test when I get home , got a couple other PM's as well xD


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I'm talking about the communication channel between CPU and DRAM has a bandwidth of greater than 70KMB/S. Ram disk has nothing to do with it.
> Remember the purpose of tweaking DRAM is to assist CPU working fast.
> 
> I did say sweet point is 2666Mhz, therefore, increasing DRAM freq from 1600(number given in your example) to 2666 will help boost the performance. Higher than that, especially 2933+ your system performance would severely degraded due to loose timing. There are a lot of reviews online which prove 3000mhz Dram works poorer than (or as good as, cann;t remember exactly) a 2133.


So, if the sweet point is 2666Mhz, should I buy that, or go for lower, and oc up to it?


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Buy 2400MHz CL9 and up with it.


----------



## gdubc

^this. You can probably save a little this way anyhow, because the 2400 cl9 kits are cheaper and you can basically tweak them to be the about the same as the 2666 kit.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> So, if the sweet point is 2666Mhz, should I buy that, or go for lower, and oc up to it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> ^this. You can probably save a little this way anyhow, because the 2400 cl9 kits are cheaper and you can basically tweak them to be the about the same as the 2666 kit.


however, 2666c10 kits have higher binning standard. Sure you can OC 2400c9 kits to 2666, but second/third timing might not as tight as 266610 ones.
Anyway, none of 2400c9 and 2666c10 is on the market at this moment.


----------



## SeanEboy

Awesome! Thanks guys.. I started shopping for those, thinking it would be the way to go... Nice to know my quasi-informed gut is going the right direction. Much appreciated!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> however, 2666c10 kits have higher binning standard. Sure you can OC 2400c9 kits to 2666, but second/third timing might not as tight as 266610 ones.
> Anyway, none of 2400c9 and 2666c10 is on the market at this moment.


Yep. Sucks trying to find good ram kits at a decent price right now. They must all be in their caves working on the upcoming ddr4.


----------



## SeanEboy

So, I guess these are my choices - as per pcpartpicker, at least... C10 apparently is my only option in 2x8GB...


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Get four sticks for Quadchannel. 4x4GB G.Skill Trident X 2400CL9 the are good. If you can get it then buy it !


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Get four sticks for Quadchannel. 4x4GB G.Skill Trident X 2400CL9 the are good. If you can get it then buy it !


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Get four sticks for Quadchannel. 4x4GB G.Skill Trident X 2400CL9 the are good. If you can get it then buy it !


yep, agree


----------



## SeanEboy

But what about the cpu degrade situation? Not a problem? I thought 2x sticks would be better in that scenario?

Looks like I found it here, not in stock, but I found a link.. That's the first part.. ;c):
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f32400c9q16gtxd

So, it's the unicorn of ram I see... I like a challenge, I'm going to try and find some...


----------



## skupples

O hear running strap 125 helps allot with sandy bridge. Been reading up on it since the last time it was brought up


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> But what about the cpu degrade situation? Not a problem? I thought 2x sticks would be better in that scenario?
> 
> Looks like I found it here, not in stock, but I found a link.. That's the first part.. ;c):
> http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f32400c9q16gtxd
> 
> So, it's the unicorn of ram I see... I like a challenge, I'm going to try and find some...


It´s is the memory that i have told !
Degradation with 4 Sticks







That´s another stupid thing i must heard.








You know what Degradation really is ?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> But what about the cpu degrade situation? Not a problem? I thought 2x sticks would be better in that scenario?
> 
> Looks like I found it here, not in stock, but I found a link.. That's the first part.. ;c):
> http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f32400c9q16gtxd
> 
> So, it's the unicorn of ram I see... I like a challenge, I'm going to try and find some...


yep, this one is ok, but it's out of stock


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> It´s is the memory that i have told !
> Degradation with 4 Sticks :lol: That´s another stupid thing i must heard. :lol:


Pushing high VCCSA trying to break 2400 MHz on SB with 4 stick = degradation. Otherwise, yeah, no such problem if staying within the truly acceptable limits.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> So, it's the unicorn of ram I see... I like a challenge, I'm going to try and find some...


Anything with Samsung IC's on it is the most optimal for Intel CPUs right now in 4 GB densities. Hynix is good too, but there is reason you'll find some 2133 MHz 1.5 V sticks and 2400 MHz 1.65V C9 stick cost a fair bit more than 2133 C10/C11 1.5V and 2400 C10/11 1.65V.

4x4 GB is best for clocking for gaming. 8x8 GB, for "power users". You should buy one set with the number of sticks you want, not buy multiple sets. Every brand has the same kits in both dual-stick and quad-stick flavors, nearly.

Don't forget about Avexir ram either!


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> yep, this one is ok, but it's out of stock


We are always far away from stock when OC the CPU right








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Pushing high VCCSA trying to break 2400 MHz on SB with 4 stick = degradation. Otherwise, yeah, no such problem if staying within the truly acceptable limits.


VCCSA higher the 1.3V ok then it can also degree the CPU faster but under 1.25V i think is a save value.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

I hate doppelpost hrrrr, sorry !


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> We are always far away from stock when OC the CPU right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VCCSA higher the 1.3V ok then it can also degree the CPU faster but under 1.25V i think is a save value.


i would say VCCSA should below 1.20 rather than 1.25 for safe 24/7


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> i would say VCCSA should below 1.20 rather than 1.25 for safe 24/7


intel white papers say 1.4 V IIRC, but for sure some chips cannot take more than 1.2 V. I had one degrade, nearly instantly, and then continue to degrade more afterwords, while another chip could take 1.35V. Those differences are what there's an Intel Tuning Plan, IMHO. If you get a chip that dies from OC, you pay $25, and get a new one. At least you can play with the limits with reasonable safety, if you can deal with RMA process and time.

I've kinda found that if you need to push more than say 1.1 V VCCSA, then chances are, you're pushing the chip too hard for 24/7 anyway. I tend to undervolt VCCSA now anyway.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

My standard VCCSA is 1,24V this is when i set the bios default. I sure this isn´t to high.
Under 1,16V can not stabil my oc.


----------



## skupples

i'm running 1.2 on both right now, with 2133 cas 9. - 1 on all stock settings.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> My standard VCCSA is 1,24V this is when i set the bios default. I sure this isn´t to high.
> Under 1,16V can not stabil my oc.


I understand. My chip only needs 0.900 for 2666 MHz. BIOS sets 1.25 V for anything, for both VCCSA and VTT. Doesn't mean it's needed for every chip though. ASUS sets general voltage rules for stability that are higher for most, too low for some, in the interest of general compatibility for everyone.

I run 2133 MHz daily at 0.850. For me, it's all about managing heat. I can run higher than the 4.5 GHz 1.25V I run now, but choose not to. VTT, for me, is 1.05V, and that only needs increase after 4.6 GHz, or small increase when doing BCLK adjust.

Now, my other chips...completely different. All are batch 3322B122.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

My Chips batch 3331B537. 4,7GHz Core1 - Core 5 and 4,6GHz on Core 6. @1,4V.


----------



## USFORCES

I just went to get my Assassin's Creed copy anyhow they sent me the key and when I tried to activate it say's key is already in use. I tried entering it a couple of more times and now I'm banned for an hour.








What a joke!


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I just went to get my Assassin's Creed copy anyhow they sent me the key and when I tried to activate it say's key is already in use. I tried entering it a couple of more times and now I'm banned for an hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a joke!


Literally, the same thing happened to me, eventually it just showed up in my inventory.


----------



## striderstone

This is the kit that I snagged up...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231522
I still haven't decided if it was a good pickup or not. I hope to find out this weekend as long as I can get the computer up and running.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> My Chips batch 3331B537. 4,7GHz Core1 - Core 5 and 4,6GHz on Core 6. @1,4V.


That sounds like the chip I sent to our cooler reviewer. I kept the best and the worst, and sent the middle to him in case he needs it for a review of some cooler.









I just flashed the new BIOS, and have been playing a bit. It does seem a bit more stable, but I gotta pop in my other memory kits and see how it goes. I need to try the poopy chip again, too. LuLz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> This is the kit that I snagged up...
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231522
> I still haven't decided if it was a good pickup or not. I hope to find out this weekend as long as I can get the computer up and running.


Should be fine. Nice to see you got the kit with dual fans, too, makes it a tad bit easier to manage, as I found my 2133 set with the normal ripjaws heatsink that I got for review ran pretty hot.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> This is the kit that I snagged up...
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231522
> I still haven't decided if it was a good pickup or not. I hope to find out this weekend as long as I can get the computer up and running.


Looks good to me, I really like the ripjaws z aesthetic.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I just went to get my Assassin's Creed copy anyhow they sent me the key and when I tried to activate it say's key is already in use. I tried entering it a couple of more times and now I'm banned for an hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a joke!


It's case sensitive.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That sounds like the chip I sent to our cooler reviewer. I kept the best and the worst, and sent the middle to him in case he needs it for a review of some cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just flashed the new BIOS, and have been playing a bit. It does seem a bit more stable, but I gotta pop in my other memory kits and see how it goes. I need to try the poopy chip again, too. LuLz.
> Should be fine. Nice to see you got the kit with dual fans, too, makes it a tad bit easier to manage, as I found my 2133 set with the normal ripjaws heatsink that I got for review fan pretty hot.


Really? Dang it. I didn't want to use the fans







I don't even think they will work with this mobo and EK block to be honest.
If the fans had a red LED, I would consider it since the other 24 fans in my machine are red.


----------



## Redshift 91

Anyone know where to buy Duralene tubing in the US, or if there is a better clear flexible tubing than duralene. I tried Masterkleer, but it clouded in 2 months. Thanks in advance.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Anyone know where to buy *Duralene* tubing in the US, or if there is a better clear flexible tubing than duralene. I tried Masterkleer, but it clouded in 2 months. Thanks in advance.


Completely misread that as Darlene Tubing after reading through the WC thread my bad









Would be some epic tubing though.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Completely misread that as Darlene Tubing after reading through the WC thread my bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would be some epic tubing though.


If there's any of that, it'd likely beat duralene







It's funny how the human brain works.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *striderstone*
> 
> Really? Dang it. I didn't want to use the fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't even think they will work with this mobo and EK block to be honest.
> If the fans had a red LED, I would consider it since the other 24 fans in my machine are red.


Meh, it's not that big of a deal. Just some light case airflow is enough. It's not like those fans are some monster air-movers. But it's nice to have one for each bank of DIMMs should you decide you need them, rather than having only one.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> intel white papers say 1.4 V IIRC,


I'm pretty sure it wasn't more than 1.2 V for Ivy-E, and I think it was 1.1 V.

It's here actually.
http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/CoreTechnicalResources.html

Actually vtt is 1.0 V, and Vsa max is 1.25 V.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it wasn't more than 1.2 V for Ivy-E, and I think it was 1.1 V.
> 
> It's here actually.
> http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/CoreTechnicalResources.html
> 
> Actually vtt is 1.0 V, and Vsa max is 1.25 V.


Uh, no.









Page 62:



I already knew the page number, BTW. IF you are going to overshoot "stock" you might as well go by the figures above. Otherwise, your numbers are still a bit off, but I do see where in the document you got them from.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Uh, no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Page 62:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already knew the page number, BTW. IF you are going to overshoot "stock" you might as well go by the figures above. Otherwise, your numbers are still a bit off, but I do see where in the document you got them from.


What would you reccomend for maximum 24/7 vccsa on SB-e?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> What would you reccomend for maximum 24/7 vccsa on SB-e?


What's already been mentioned, not more than 1.2 V for a crappy chip, and try to stay under 1.1V with a decent one. That doesn't mean that you cannot use more voltage...as stated in that disclaimer by Intel that I made sure to include in that pic...anything over stock can degrade a chip. As Raghar mentioned, the document says max VID is 1.25 V, bit that's VID, not VOLTAGE. Those two are not the same. VTT, however, notes 1.047 V max VID< not Raghar's 1.0V..that's the "typical" rating, which again, is VID, not voltage.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> What's already been mentioned, not more than 1.2 V for a crappy chip, and try to stay under 1.1V with a decent one. That doesn't mean that you cannot use more voltage...as stated in that disclaimer by Intel that I made sure to include in that pic...anything over stock can degrade a chip. As Raghar mentioned, the document says max VID is 1.25 V, bit that's VID, not VOLTAGE. Those two are not the same. VTT, however, notes 1.047 V max VID< not Raghar's 1.0V..that's the "typical" rating, which again, is VID, not voltage.


awesome. Thanks for the info. I will be doing my overclocking this weekend...I hope.

I'll make sure to post build logs and overclocking results as soon as I can


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> What's already been mentioned, not more than 1.2 V for a crappy chip, and try to stay under 1.1V with a decent one. That doesn't mean that you cannot use more voltage...as stated in that disclaimer by Intel that I made sure to include in that pic...anything over stock can degrade a chip. As Raghar mentioned, the document says max VID is 1.25 V, bit that's VID, not VOLTAGE. Those two are not the same. VTT, however, notes 1.047 V max VID< not Raghar's 1.0V..that's the "typical" rating, which again, is VID, not voltage.


Okay, I'm don't even know if my chip would be considered "crappy". I've got 5GHz at 1.42v, but that's got nothing to do with the IMC. I've got 8x4GB at 2133 using 1.575 v on the memory and 1.1v vccsa, I want to try for 2400.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Okay, I'm don't even know if my chip would be considered "crappy". I've got 5GHz at 1.42v, but that's got nothing to do with the IMC. I've got 8x4GB at 2133 using 1.575 v on the memory, I want to try for 2400 and 1.1v vccsa.


CPU clocking and memory clocking are not the same chip-to-chip, so I don't consider a chip "good" unless it's hitting 5 GHz @ 1.3V, and 3000 MHz 4x4 1.05 V. Such a chip is out there, for sure. I don't pay for most hardware, so I'm a bit snobbish about what I consider good or not.









That said, I wasn't commenting directly about your own chip... It's all luck what you get anyway. Some chips are killer mem clockers, but crappy on CPU, and vice versa. My own personal limits are 1.05V for VCCSA, 1.15V for VTT, and 1.35V CPU for 24/7 use. Benching...there are ZERO limits, just those imposed by cooling. 4.7 GHz under 1.3V is pretty awesome for a 24/7 chip, but that's not good enough for me to pay for.









The ROG logo on my RIVBE box is metallic silver. Yours is a grey-blue-white faux metallic design. That's just how I roll.


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Okay, I'm don't even know if my chip would be considered "crappy". I've got 5GHz at 1.42v, but that's got nothing to do with the IMC. I've got 8x4GB at 2133 using 1.575 v on the memory and 1.1v vccsa, I want to try for 2400.


Depending on ram, most retail 4930K/4960X will scale to 2666~3000+ imc on RIVBE air with all settings in bios @ default exept vdimm/vcore


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> CPU clocking and memory clocking are not the same chip-to-chip, so I don't consider a chip "good" unless it's hitting 5 GHz @ 1.3V, and 3000 MHz 4x4 1.05 V. Such a chip is out there, for sure. I don't pay for most hardware, so I'm a bit snobbish about what I consider good or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That said, I wasn't commenting directly about your own chip... It's all luck what you get anyway. Some chips are killer mem clockers, but crappy on CPU, and vice versa. My own personal limits are 1.05V for VCCSA, 1.15V for VTT, and 1.35V CPU for 24/7 use. Benching...there are ZERO limits, just those imposed by cooling. 4.7 GHz under 1.3V is pretty awesome for a 24/7 chip, but that's not good enough for me to pay for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ROG logo on my RIVBE box is metallic silver. Yours is a grey-blue-white faux metallic design. That's just how I roll.


If I could get in on this hardware review stuff, I would in a heartbeat. Not just for free hardware (It isn't enough for the time spent), I really enjoy learning and playing with hardware.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Depending on ram, most retail 4930K/4960X will scale to 2666~3000+ imc on RIVBE air with all settings in bios @ default exept vdimm/vcore


I know, but I'm running SB-e and my IMC doesn't like 2400 MHz and 5GHz at the same time. I just wanted to see if I had any room to increase vccsa to try to get to 2400. I'd prefer running 5GHz and 2133 rather than killing my IMC trying to get to 2400, and maybe getting a worse 3930k back from intel, like my 3570k, I had one that would do 4.8 at 1.35v and it died suddenly, and I got one back that could barely do 4.4 at 1.4v.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> If I could get in on this hardware review stuff, I would in a heartbeat. Not just for free hardware (It isn't enough for the time spent), I really enjoy learning and playing with hardware.


Yeah, I definitely don't do it for the money..it COSTS time and that time could be spent making real money. Motherboard reviews are the worst for that, since you gotta build a whole system, install OS and software, etc... RAM reviews I have rig ready and waiting for me to put the RAM into and swap PSU over to, so it is far less time intensive. I do have more time than most to devote to reviews though, so it suits me well now, but I'd definitely like to be able to pay a bill or two, and I can't say that that is the case right now. It is a labor of love, that's for sure.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Depending on ram, most retail 4930K/4960X will scale to 2666~3000+ imc on RIVBE air with all settings in bios @ default exept vdimm/vcore


I'll say!


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, I definitely don't do it for the money..it COSTS time and that time could be spent making real money. Motherboard reviews are the worst for that, since you gotta build a whole system, install OS and software, etc... RAM reviews I have rig ready and waiting for me to put the RAM into and swap PSU over to, so it is far less time intensive. I do have more time than most to devote to reviews though, so it suits me well now, but I'd definitely like to be able to pay a bill or two, and I can't say that that is the case right now. It is a labor of love, that's for sure.


I was an RA in college because you got free room and board, but I hated the job itself, it totally wasn't worth it. One of the best lessons in my life, though.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Everybody talking bout ram.....This is what I got for mine. a Hopefully it'll work out well for me. Picked them up for $129.99


----------



## striderstone

I just installed my new mobo here are the results...

Psu powers the mobo but power button doesn't so anything.

Tried a different psu and it turned on but I am getting a 00 post code and a cpu_led

Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## Juggalo23451

I am in


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> CPU clocking and memory clocking are not the same chip-to-chip, so I don't consider a chip "good" unless it's hitting 5 GHz @ 1.3V, and 3000 MHz 4x4 1.05 V. Such a chip is out there, for sure. I don't pay for most hardware, so I'm a bit snobbish about what I consider good or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That said, I wasn't commenting directly about your own chip... It's all luck what you get anyway. Some chips are killer mem clockers, but crappy on CPU, and vice versa. My own personal limits are 1.05V for VCCSA, 1.15V for VTT, and 1.35V CPU for 24/7 use. Benching...there are ZERO limits, just those imposed by cooling. 4.7 GHz under 1.3V is pretty awesome for a 24/7 chip, but that's not good enough for me to pay for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ROG logo on my RIVBE box is metallic silver. Yours is a grey-blue-white faux metallic design. That's just how I roll.


+Rep. Nice insight!







Dropped my VCSSA to 1v and VTT to 1.1v with zero effect to stability. Dumb board has it at 1.175v and 1.25v. Wondering why bios thinks it needs this much on auto. Looks like less is more with these settings.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451*
> 
> 
> 
> I am in


welcome !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> CPU clocking and memory clocking are not the same chip-to-chip, so I don't consider a chip "good" unless it's hitting 5 GHz @ 1.3V, and 3000 MHz 4x4 1.05 V. Such a chip is out there, for sure. I don't pay for most hardware, so I'm a bit snobbish about what I consider good or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That said, I wasn't commenting directly about your own chip... It's all luck what you get anyway. Some chips are killer mem clockers, but crappy on CPU, and vice versa. My own personal limits are 1.05V for VCCSA, 1.15V for VTT, and 1.35V CPU for 24/7 use. Benching...there are ZERO limits, just those imposed by cooling. 4.7 GHz under 1.3V is pretty awesome for a 24/7 chip, but that's not good enough for me to pay for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ROG logo on my RIVBE box is metallic silver. Yours is a grey-blue-white faux metallic design. That's just how I roll.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep. Nice insight!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dropped my VCSSA to 1v and VTT to 1.1v with zero effect to stability. Dumb board has it at 1.175v and 1.25v. Wondering why bios thinks it needs this much on auto. Looks like less is more with these settings.
Click to expand...

this is why i never trust mobo settings


----------



## Arm3nian

Took a picture in the dark.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is why i never trust mobo settings


It's meant to be a starting point, and if you have a poopy CPU, you'll be thankful for it. Auto settings are pretty good, memory profiles are good too, but voltages...that's your job.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's meant to be a starting point, and if you have a poopy CPU, you'll be thankful for it. Auto settings are pretty good, memory profiles are good too, but voltages...that's your job.


Yeah, after a few hours of not being able to get into windows I'm back @ stock settings, and a set of 2400 mhz RAM that I can only get working in 1333...

Even @ 1.3v for CPU @ 4.2 ghz and VCSSA @ 1.15 and VTT @ 1.15 for both couldn't get stable results. Something's off somewhere. I went as high as 1.2 for VCSSA / VTT but nothing w/ RAM and 1.375 w/ the CPU. I have something wrong somewhere, and I'm beyond frustrated at this point since that's pretty much my entire day now and soon have to go to bed due to work...

Horrible luck I have..


----------



## Mega Man

haha i know exactly how ou feel to a point ocing is fun after said point it is annoying !


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah, after a few hours of not being able to get into windows I'm back @ stock settings, and a set of 2400 mhz RAM that I can only get working in 1333...
> 
> Even @ 1.3v for CPU @ 4.2 ghz and VCSSA @ 1.15 and VTT @ 1.15 for both couldn't get stable results. Something's off somewhere. I went as high as 1.2 for VCSSA / VTT but nothing w/ RAM and 1.375 w/ the CPU. I have something wrong somewhere, and I'm beyond frustrated at this point since that's pretty much my entire day now and soon have to go to bed due to work...
> 
> Horrible luck I have..


You have 64GB of memory, right? Have you tried just using 32GB. If that works, you may have to RMA your cpu because the IMC is too weak.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

Can anyone tell me (my current system is apart) What the VRM Temps on the RIVBE are with the stock heatsink?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Took a picture in the dark.


Looking good! What lights are you using? I want something like that for my case.


----------



## Mappi75

@LunaP

What is your CPU?

I bought the G.Skill DDR3-2400 CL10 64GB KIT and cant run this stable on the REIV with a 3960X cpu - so i switched to a 64GB Kingstion Kit (DDR3-1600 CL9)

Maybe a Ivy-B cpu will does it better?

Now i have a 4960X cpu an i'am interessted in a 64GB 2400Mhz Kit









But i know from the offical ROG Forum that using 64GB @2400 @CL10
is a little bit of luck and a kind of magic -needs a lot of pro-tweaking!

(that was during the sandy-b times)

Edit:
i want to add a negative thing about the gskill memory (i really like gskill),
but the headspreaders are so wide that they will get extreme hot!

(And i have a LL Tyr2000 Case with 5x140mm fans)

The Kingston Memory is not so wide so the memory didn't get hot and fit with the noctua NH-D14 cpu fan


----------



## WCRF_1710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah, after a few hours of not being able to get into windows I'm back @ stock settings, and a set of 2400 mhz RAM that I can only get working in 1333...
> 
> Even @ 1.3v for CPU @ 4.2 ghz and VCSSA @ 1.15 and VTT @ 1.15 for both couldn't get stable results. Something's off somewhere. I went as high as 1.2 for VCSSA / VTT but nothing w/ RAM and 1.375 w/ the CPU. I have something wrong somewhere, and I'm beyond frustrated at this point since that's pretty much my entire day now and soon have to go to bed due to work...
> 
> Horrible luck I have..


Did you try 125mhz CPU Strap?

Rampage Tweak Mode 3 (for Ivy-E)?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's meant to be a starting point, and if you have a poopy CPU, you'll be thankful for it. Auto settings are pretty good, memory profiles are good too, but voltages...that's your job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, after a few hours of not being able to get into windows I'm back @ stock settings, and a set of 2400 mhz RAM that I can only get working in 1333...
> 
> Even @ 1.3v for CPU @ 4.2 ghz and VCSSA @ 1.15 and VTT @ 1.15 for both couldn't get stable results. Something's off somewhere. I went as high as 1.2 for VCSSA / VTT but nothing w/ RAM and 1.375 w/ the CPU. I have something wrong somewhere, and I'm beyond frustrated at this point since that's pretty much my entire day now and soon have to go to bed due to work...
> 
> Horrible luck I have..
Click to expand...

I had the same issues with 64gig took it down to 32gig and have not had any issues with the settings I sent to you


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah, after a few hours of not being able to get into windows I'm back @ stock settings, and a set of 2400 mhz RAM that I can only get working in 1333...


You have two sets of RAM right? Post SPD of both sets.

Quote:


> VCSSA @ 1.15 and VTT @ 1.15 for


This is horrible voltage for 1600 MHz. Try it with each kit separately at what voltages you can get to 21xx MHz.
And post results here.

Can you borrow, have friend with RIVE? You might like to test these kits and CPU combination on his board, and use tertiary RAM settings as an inspiration.

Because there are some bit strange ideas I'd try to correct them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> I bought the G.Skill DDR3-2400 CL10 64GB KIT and cant run this stable on the REIV with a 3960X cpu - so i switched to a 64GB Kingstion Kit (DDR3-1600 CL9)


Sandy-E isn't certified by Intel to be able to go above 1600 MHz, in fact running RAM at these speeds are called overclocking, when you are not using RAM with JEDEC 1600.

The board is called RIVE.

Quote:


> Maybe a Ivy-B cpu will does it better?


Not without user selfeducating himself by doing and learning from results. Every CPU is different and might have its quirks.
Quote:


> Now i have a 4960X cpu an i'am interessted in a 64GB 2400Mhz Kit


I thought you still have the original 2400 MHz kit, why not plug it in and try if it runs at least at 21xx MHz stable?
Quote:


> i want to add a negative thing about the gskill memory (i really like gskill),
> but the headspreaders are so wide that they will get extreme hot!


Big heatspreaders are great thing. They allow great cooling. Small tiny coolers like low profile RAM coolers are atrocious with RAM cooling, and have problems even with 1700 MHz.
Quote:


> The Kingston Memory is not so wide so the memory didn't get hot and fit with the noctua NH-D14 cpu fan


It doesn't run that hot because it runs at slower speed and lower voltage.


----------



## striderstone

Just for an update...
I moved everything into the new board but I was still getting the CPU_LED light on the new motherboard.

I called ASUS support, which was hilarious by the way, and it took them 10 minutes to figure out that a 3930k was an Intel core i7.







The support person was like "what kind of processor do you have?" I replied with "a 3930k". She comes back with, do you know what the model and manufacturer is?". I was a little thrown off by this question but I get that she was probably just making sure that I knew what i was talking about so I simply said "an Intel 3930k socket 2011 processor". Then she came back with "Yes but do you know the model?". I'm like "a 3930k, that's the model, it's an Intel 3930k, I don't know what additional information you need about my processor". She then said "Well we need to make sure that it's a compatible processor, so can you tell me if it's a core i7, or an intel, or something like that". At this point I just dropped my jaw, I wanted to stab someone in the face.

after that complete waste of time, I updated the BIOS from the cool little USB stick bios update thing that they have on the board. That still didn't work though so that sucks









My conclusion is...
My 3930k died with my mobo fried or my new mobo is also broken

My next steps...
I ordered a 4930k last night because it was the only one that Amazon had in stock that could be delivered today for only 3.99 shipping, BALLER! so I just got that instead.

My Lepa 1600w seems to also be having issues. It was powering the new board, the on board LED lights were coming on, but when I hit the pwoer button, the CPU fan and the GPU fans were not coming on







When I plugged in my Silverstone Strider 1500w, the CPU would turn on it would just give me a 00 post code and a CPU_LED red light







I will probably need to RMA that PSU again, for the 2nd time now


----------



## USFORCES

Guess I got lucky because I've been having a easy time overclocking with this 64gb. This is the first time I've used G.skill and they recommended it for the Asus black, 4960 or 4930. I've been gaming at is 4.3GHz 1866MHz and not a single issue yet. The Asus Black is defiantly a fun motherboard to play with that's for sure.








Anyhow this is the highest stable overclock I can get with this 64gb of ram any higher and I have to pull 32gb out,
http://valid.canardpc.com/qvz041


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> You have 64GB of memory, right? Have you tried just using 32GB. If that works, you may have to RMA your cpu because the IMC is too weak.


I need 64GB and 32GB works if I set it, if I pump voltage high enough I get 48 in Windows, but Windows crashes immediately. I wasn't aware of this and hoping this isn't the case ....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> @LunaP
> 
> What is your CPU?
> 
> I bought the G.Skill DDR3-2400 CL10 64GB KIT and cant run this stable on the REIV with a 3960X cpu - so i switched to a 64GB Kingstion Kit (DDR3-1600 CL9)
> 
> Maybe a Ivy-B cpu will does it better?
> 
> Now i have a 4960X cpu an i'am interessted in a 64GB 2400Mhz Kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i know from the offical ROG Forum that using 64GB @2400 @CL10
> is a little bit of luck and a kind of magic -needs a lot of pro-tweaking!
> 
> (that was during the sandy-b times)
> 
> Edit:
> i want to add a negative thing about the gskill memory (i really like gskill),
> but the headspreaders are so wide that they will get extreme hot!
> 
> (And i have a LL Tyr2000 Case with 5x140mm fans)
> 
> The Kingston Memory is not so wide so the memory didn't get hot and fit with the noctua NH-D14 cpu fan


I have the 4960X its in my signature. Also we have the same kit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> Did you try 125mhz CPU Strap?
> 
> Rampage Tweak Mode 3 (for Ivy-E)?


I had 100mhz CPU strap and Mode 3 for Ivy-E setting CPU core to 45 but also tried at 42 (Sync all)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I had the same issues with 64gig took it down to 32gig and have not had any issues with the settings I sent to you


I can't run with 32GB sadly, I've opened a ticket w/ G.Skill asking them as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> You have two sets of RAM right? Post SPD of both sets.
> *This is horrible voltage for 1600 MHz.* Try it with each kit separately at what voltages you can get to 21xx MHz.
> And post results here.
> 
> Can you borrow, have friend with RIVE? You might like to test these kits and CPU combination on his board, and use tertiary RAM settings as an inspiration.
> 
> Because there are some bit strange ideas I'd try to correct them.
> Sandy-E isn't certified by Intel to be able to go above 1600 MHz, in fact running RAM at these speeds are called overclocking, when you are not using RAM with JEDEC 1600.
> 
> The board is called RIVE.
> Not without user selfeducating himself by doing and learning from results. Every CPU is different and might have its quirks.
> I thought you still have the original 2400 MHz kit, why not plug it in and try if it runs at least at 21xx MHz stable?
> Big heatspreaders are great thing. They allow great cooling. Small tiny coolers like low profile RAM coolers are atrocious with RAM cooling, and have problems even with 1700 MHz.
> It doesn't run that hot because it runs at slower speed and lower voltage.


Not 1600 , its 2400

Both kits run fine, if I set it to 2133 it loads into windows and crashes, so there are other settings that are needed or something else is wrong. Either setting a block setting or something else.

Images from both kits , they're the exact same as they were bought together, since no 64gb option seemed available.



I've reseated the RAM as per Cad's recommendation, though hating this board even more over the flimsiness of it, as soon as gave slight force on the RAM holder tabs it broke straight off into the case so now I have one channel that only has 1 side though it still clicks in place so w/e, just another thing in the bucket.

*ONLY when its @ 2400 do 4 of the sticks show up as Abnormal.* ANY other speed higher or lower shows up as Normal for all sticks.


These were the settings I was able to get to the windows loading screen with. At which not even the windows animated logo would start it'd just freeze. Thus increasing to 1.15 and it went into windows but would either Lock up or the GPU's would glitch out and it would freeze. Lowering to 2133 would cause Bluescreens once INSIDE windows and or freeze it entirely.


----------



## cadaveca

Could just be your CPU is not up to the task. it's not normal to get max memory multi with all slots full...never has been.

At the same time, I is possible, for sure, with a good chip. Maybe centvalny can comment on that one, about how rare those chips might be. I would think getting 32 GB to 2400 using natural multi, or over 2666 using BCLK might be difficult. I only have 32 GB, and 1600 and 2400 is not a problem...anything between that...forgeddaboutit.

You could try max MHZ memory profile...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Could just be your CPU is not up to the task. it's not normal to get max memory multi with all slots full...never has been.
> 
> At the same time, I is possible, for sure, with a good chip. Maybe centvalny can comment on that one, about how rare those chips might be. I would think getting 32 GB to 2400 using natural multi, or over 2666 using BCLK might be difficult. I only have 32 GB, and 1600 and 2400 is not a problem...anything between that...forgeddaboutit.
> 
> You could try max MHZ memory profile...


Should I contact Intel? If so is there an exact area / number / email for them? I still have my receipt. Purchased in November I believe lol.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Should I contact Intel? If so is there an exact area / number / email for them? I still have my receipt. Purchased in November I believe lol.


You could try, but at the same time, max memory support for the CPU is 1866 MHz, so anything over that, with any amount of ram...well...just isn't covered by Intel.

I know that board and memory should be more than capable...CPU is the weakpoint, for sure. As an alternate to high speed, you could try 1600 MHz @ 7-8-8-24 1t.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You could try, but at the same time, max memory support for the CPU is 1866 MHz, so anything over that, with any amount of ram...well...just isn't covered by Intel.
> 
> I know that board and memory should be more than capable...CPU is the weakpoint, for sure. As an alternate to high speed, you could try 1600 MHz @ 7-8-8-24 1t.


Any reason you can think of that makes 2133 Unstable? It loads to windows but god it hates it LOL.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Any reason you can think of that makes 2133 Unstable? It loads to windows but god it hates it LOL.


If it's about the memory controller, then it's not got enough voltage for 2133, and @ 2400, the IMC goes whacko. going up to 2666 MHz from 2400 would be 2133 MHz x 125 BCLK, so it'd make sense that 2666 wouldn't show the "abnormal" problems, and there is no way you'd boot 3000 @ 64 GB unless you binned thousands of chips IMHO.









I'd like to see some 1866 MHz AIDA64 mem benches, too, from those running 64 GB, and that compared with 1600 and 2133.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If it's about the memory controller, then it's not got enough voltage for 2133, and @ 2400, the IMC goes whacko. going up to 2666 MHz from 2400 would be 2133 MHz x 125 BCLK, so it'd make sense that 2666 wouldn't show the "abnormal" problems, and there is no way you'd boot 3000 @ 64 GB unless you binned thousands of chips IMHO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to see some 1866 MHz AIDA64 mem benches, too, from those running 64 GB, and that compared with 1600 and 2133.


So basically from where I'm coming in from what do you recommend or believe my highest speed should be for my RAM? Can I still push 2133? Should I RMA them and go for RipJaws or would it not even matter at this point?


----------



## cadaveca

I'd say look at the chip as the problem, not the ram, so changing ram isn't going to get you much. Getting 3200 MHz with 2x4 GB MFR seems pretty hard for me, 3000 is no problem. Memory is rated to 3100 MHz, and does near 3600 on Haswell.

I think if you clear CMOS, go into BIOS, and check VCCSA voltage, the lower the better for ram clocking. At least, that's the case with my 3 chips, but I can't really say that that is true based on three IVB-E and 3 SNB-E chips alone.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Not 1600 , its 2400


So have you tried slower settings? The important thing to know is if it can run 64 GB at all.
If it boots at 1600, the rest of it would need just quite standard RAM overclocking methodology.

I looked at these SPD settings, and they are high density RAM kits each designed to work on boards with 4 slots. Are you running with 2T command rate? You definitely should with these kits at least at first because they were designed for that.

Also you can try relax CL to 12, and if it will not work relax RCD to 13 as well.
Quote:


> Both kits run fine, if I set it to 2133 it loads into windows and crashes,


Translated they are not stable at 21xx MHz.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I'd say look at the chip as the problem, not the ram, so changing ram isn't going to get you much. Getting 3200 MHz with 2x4 GB MFR seems pretty hard for me, 3000 is no problem. Memory is rated to 3100 MHz, and does near 3600 on Haswell.
> 
> I think if you clear CMOS, go into BIOS, and check VCCSA voltage, the lower the better for ram clocking. At least, that's the case with my 3 chips, but I can't really say that that is true based on three IVB-E and 3 SNB-E chips alone.


Well I do know @ 1866 it's unstable as well as I couldn't install windows @ that speed as it kept crashing and bluescreening on bootup.

1333 has been my only successful speed. Though yes it supports 32gb just fine @ 2400. Starting to think I should have just gone w/ the 2133 speeds instead


----------



## christefan

Take all the memory out and try POSTing with one stick, check if the memory reads normal and then proceed to add one stick at a time always checking that you're getting a normal reading for the modules you have added in


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> *So have you tried slower settings?* The important thing to know is if it can run 64 GB at all.
> If it boots at 1600, the rest of it would need just quite standard RAM overclocking methodology.
> 
> I looked at these SPD settings, and they are high density RAM kits each designed to work on boards with 4 slots. Are you running with 2T command rate? You definitely should with these kits at least at first because they were designed for that.
> 
> Also you can try relax CL to 12, and if it will not work relax RCD to 13 as well.
> Translated they are not stable at 21xx MHz.


As stated earlier it loads fine @ 64gbs w/ no issue @ 1333 , which is the stock speed.

I've relaxed CL @ 11 when running 2133 and still nothing, I'll try 12.

As far as Command Rate yes it's at 2T no less, as for only being able to work on boards with 4 slots, I spoke w/ G.Skill and they were designed up to 8 slots as their previous counterparts had 8 slots as well. At least this is coming from the horses mouth anyways.

I need to first test to see if my CPU is even stable @ any rate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christefan*
> 
> Take all the memory out and try POSTing with one stick, check if the memory reads normal and then proceed to add one stick at a time always checking that you're getting a normal reading for the modules you have added in


I highlighted the previous post in bold, the sticks are showing up in Normal under any speed other than 2400, if in sets of 4 show up as stable on either. Something is awry with this.


----------



## VertKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> LuLz.
> Should be fine. Nice to see you got the kit with dual fans, too, makes it a tad bit easier to manage, as I found my 2133 set with the normal ripjaws heatsink that I got for review ran pretty hot.


Does anyone use those fans? I have them with my ram kit but have yet to see any images of anyone using them in a case. So I was not going to bother with them.


----------



## centvalny

New chip, 4.5G 1.36V h20 with imc max @ 2933

Good Samsung or mfr? Forget it..

Next cold test...



http://imgur.com/j818lq1


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> As stated earlier it loads fine @ 64gbs w/ no issue @ 1333 , which is the stock speed.
> 
> I've relaxed CL @ 11 when running 2133 and still nothing, I'll try 12.
> 
> As far as Command Rate yes it's at 2T no less, as for only being able to work on boards with 4 slots, I spoke w/ G.Skill and they were designed up to 8 slots as their previous counterparts had 8 slots as well. At least this is coming from the horses mouth anyways.
> 
> I need to first test to see if my CPU is even stable @ any rate.
> I highlighted the previous post in bold, the sticks are showing up in Normal under any speed other than 2400, if in sets of 4 show up as stable on either. Something is awry with this.


At 4.3GHz the 2400MHz G.Skill 64gb 11-13-13-31 I'm using runs best at 2000MHz 11-11-11-28


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> New chip, 4.5G 1.36V h20 with imc max @ 2933
> 
> Good Samsung or mfr? Forget it..
> 
> Next cold test...
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/j818lq1


nice, this one is samsung chip


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> At 4.3GHz the 2400MHz G.Skill 64gb 11-13-13-31 I'm using runs best at 2000MHz 11-11-11-28


Interesting timings mine auto default to 10-11-11-31 I might try increasing them to match yours, have you been successful @ 2400 or just keeping it @ 2000?

Edit

OMG My issue killed the thread...I'm so sorry


----------



## yttocstfarc

Anybody want a "Black Edition" Gpu for their Rampage? Check this out!!!!!
http://www.techpowerup.com/197077/geforce-gtx-titan-black-edition-to-be-followed-by-geforce-gtx-790.html


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Anybody want a "Black Edition" Gpu for their Rampage? Check this out!!!!!
> http://www.techpowerup.com/197077/geforce-gtx-titan-black-edition-to-be-followed-by-geforce-gtx-790.html


Still a 999$ card


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Still a *an AWESOME* 999$ card


Fixed


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Still a 999$ card


What u talkin 'bout, Willis??? As if you'd just buy one...that's a $3000 investment, minimum!

Anyone wanna donate to my Black Edition VGA fund?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> What u talkin 'bout, Willis??? As if you'd just buy one...that's a $3000 investment, minimum!
> 
> Anyone wanna donate to my Black Edition VGA fund?


I cant afford that. But I know there are people with the BE that can, Just thought it would make a good match for an "Extreme" build.


----------



## shilka

I dont swim around in money but even if i did i would not buy more then two

I am simply too cheap to buy things i dont need even if i had a ton of money

Would much rather see the world and travel

Anyway thats off topic

Card looks much better in black if you ask me


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I cant afford that. But I know there are people with the BE that can just thought it would make a good match for an "Extreme" build.


I know *I* want 'em.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I dont swim around in money but even if i did i would not buy more then two
> 
> I am simply too cheap to buy things i dont need even if i had a ton of money
> 
> Would much rather see the world and travel
> 
> Anyway thats off topic
> 
> Card looks much better in black if you ask me


Meh. I'm nearly 40, been there, done that. Give me some BLACK EDITION VGAs.

The sad thing is, I am torn...I like the standard NVidia reference heatsink too...matches the Dominator Platinum sticks I got really nicely. But if you're watercooling, the colour of the stock cooler matters little anyway.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Maybe they have a black PCB too !?


----------



## centvalny

ROG Matrix 290X or 780i will look awesome with this motherboard


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Matrix 290X or 780i will look awesome with this motherboard


I'll take that offer. You got my shipping address, right?


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Interesting timings mine auto default to 10-11-11-31 I might try increasing them to match yours, have you been successful @ 2400 or just keeping it @ 2000?


This 64gb kit I have is rated at 2400mhz 11-13-13-31 and yeah they will run at 2400mhz in X.M.P. but I'm running it at 1866-2000 for tighter timings and it's totally stable at 11-11-11-28. I guess if you want good stable 2400mhz memory you would be better off buying 2800 and run it at 2400mhz with tighter timings..







Even my old dominator GT memory was rated at 2000MHz but would only run at 1866 unless I increased the voltage. Ivy bridge e doesn't use more than 1866 gaming anyhow, I had a feeling it would turn out like that. I would rather manually clock it myself anyhow, I mean whoever buys a ROG board and don't play with all the settings is wasting there money, lol I'm happy gaming at 4.3ghz actually I don't even need it that high, I did notice game play is a lot smoother than it was on the 980X even the graphics look better, noticed that right off the bat.
Anyhow buddy if you can't get it to run above 1866mhz stable I'd return it for sure, what happens in xmp?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Interesting timings mine auto default to 10-11-11-31 I might try increasing them to match yours, have you been successful @ 2400 or just keeping it @ 2000?


Your timings are 10-12-12-31 which are probably overly aggressive (if that auto default happens during 2400 MHz speed something is wrong), and you should try 12-12-12-36 (or 12-13-12-38) first to find to what speed you can get and still be perfectly stable. You should also review your secondary timings.

Are you overclocking memory first time?


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> ROG Matrix 290X or 780i will look awesome with this motherboard


Have they announced a Matrix 290X? My Matrix 7970 was absolutely best card I've ever owned 1385/1875 all day.


----------



## skupples

meh, all signs point to it being hard locked in the voltage department. Nvidia got really pissed when they found out it was so easy to manipulate ncp4206. So, the only benefits will be that it's B1 revision & 6gb. So, you will basically see a hard cap of ~1250-1300mhz max with 1.212V.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> This 64gb kit I have is rated at 2400mhz 11-13-13-31 and yeah they will run at 2400mhz in X.M.P. but I'm running it at 1866-2000 for tighter timings and it's totally stable at 11-11-11-28. I guess if you want good stable 2400mhz memory you would be better off buying 2800 and run it at 2400mhz with tighter timings..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even my old dominator GT memory was rated at 2000MHz but would only run at 1866 unless I increased the voltage. Ivy bridge e doesn't use more than 1866 gaming anyhow, I had a feeling it would turn out like that. I would rather manually clock it myself anyhow, I mean whoever buys a ROG board and don't play with all the settings is wasting there money, lol I'm happy gaming at 4.3ghz actually I don't even need it that high, I did notice game play is a lot smoother than it was on the 980X even the graphics look better, noticed that right off the bat.
> Anyhow buddy if you can't get it to run above 1866mhz stable I'd return it for sure, what happens in xmp?


Took your advice and swapped it to 125mhz Block set CPU Sync to 36 and set RAM to 2000, then changed Timings to 10-12-12-31

CPU Voltage is currently 1.350
VCSAA = 1.15
VTT = 1.15

RAM is now showing up as 2000mhz and 64gb and so far Windows is running fine. Question is as I haven't done this in ages, which setting do I disable so the CPU is always @ max vs speed stepping that way I can ensure it's stable, or is it best to leave as is and just run Prime?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Your timings are 10-12-12-31 which are probably overly aggressive (if that auto default happens during 2400 MHz speed something is wrong), and you should try 12-12-12-36 (or 12-13-12-38) first to find to what speed you can get and still be perfectly stable. You should also review your secondary timings.
> 
> *Are you overclocking memory first time*?


This amount / type yes.

My Kit timings are 10-11-11-31 but rated best @ 9-10-10-28 @ 32gb so not sure what would be best @ 64gb so probably something I didn't take into account. I'm going to attempt to lower the settings and see how far that gets me in a bit. So far stable but can't tell for sure w/o proper testing.

Current settings as of now.


----------



## USFORCES

Enhanced Intel SpeedStep® Technology it's fun to find on this board too









I use it unless I'm gaming or benching.


----------



## LunaP

Ok so now after a bit of gaming the comp freezes. Sound included. No blues reen though what woukd you guys guess o n this? I have my titans set at 115% and +91 on core theyre keeping around 35 on non sli supported.

Is it ram or cpu u think i bumped cpu to 1.375 just in case but still froze.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ok so now after a bit of gaming the comp freezes. Sound included. No blues reen though what woukd you guys guess o n this? I have my titans set at 115% and +91 on core theyre keeping around 35 on non sli supported.
> 
> Is it ram or cpu u think i bumped cpu to 1.375 just in case but still froze.


Does it only freeze during gaming?


----------



## GreatBeast666

Hey guys. Did a search, but it doesn't come up with much yet..

...but can anyone with one a R4BE clarify the current state of Linux compatibility on this board?

I'm considering building a rig around one of these, but linux compatibility for at least the basic stuff is a must.
I'm well seasoned with linux though, so some minor hiccups and hoop-jumps are ok









If anyone runs any flavor of linux on theirs, please chime in.... any issues? Anything that doesn't work?

if not... anyone up for booting a liveCD and letting me know?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Does it only freeze during gaming?


Yup so far anyways.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yup so far anyways.


That was happening to a PC a built recently, setting the MB bios to default cleared my problem. The cpu overclock was unstable.

Try changing things at one, meaning. Set the Bios to default, but leave the GPUS overclocked. If the problem persists, then change something else and so forth. Its hard to tell when everything(CPU, RAM, GPUS) are Overclocked.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> That was happening to a PC a built recently, setting the MB bios to default cleared my problem. The cpu overclock was unstable.
> 
> Try changing things at one, meaning. Set the Bios to default, but leave the GPUS overclocked. If the problem persists, then change something else and so forth. Its hard to tell when everything(CPU, RAM, GPUS) are Overclocked.


Ha froze so bad the reset button didn't even work !









Reset to defaults, CPU @ 4.5 on 1.35v starting.

RAM @ Default timings / 1333 no XMP

GPU no OC.

I might test 1 per day and slowly get there...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ha froze so bad the reset button didn't even work !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reset to defaults, CPU @ 4.5 on 1.35v starting.
> 
> RAM @ Default timings / 1333 no XMP
> 
> GPU no OC.
> 
> I might test 1 per day and slowly get there...


Does the sound corrupt out? Like, do you hear it degrade then stop? If so, it's likely a GPU instability issue, CPU's normally BSOD.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Does the sound corrupt out? Like, do you hear it degrade then stop? If so, it's likely a GPU instability issue, CPU's normally BSOD.


Kinda, or I'd load into windows and just as the loading screen comes up it just freezes, while in game before it'd just freeze, sometimes the sound would continue on as if it was still active but everything would be frozen, that or it would just completely freeze including sound but no blip.

I left the RAM as is and set the CPU to 4.5 and the GPU to +91 for the time being, and was playing the game for the past 30 minutes and no issues, though no increase in FPS either lol. I set the voltage to 1175 atm on the Titans, might do the LLC guide tomorrow and test w/ 1212 unless I don't need that to do so.

I believe the issue is w/ the Memory, unless its @ 1333 it freezes the system. So something's off with it. I might just have a bad batch, gonna lower the CPU timings tomorrow and test again.

Ignore the GPU temps I just exited the game it was hitting upwards 40C max , though I THINK I managed to disable boost? Not sure.



Anywhoo it's stable @ 4.5 so far will troubleshoot more tomorrow, though not seeing any gains w/ my MMO sadly, even though its not even SLI savy yet.

Currently I BSOD when shutting down though lol, only after setting OC's though, lets see if this does it again.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Kinda, or I'd load into windows and just as the loading screen comes up it just freezes, while in game before it'd just freeze, sometimes the sound would continue on as if it was still active but everything would be frozen, that or it would just completely freeze including sound but no blip.
> 
> I left the RAM as is and set the CPU to 4.5 and the GPU to +91 for the time being, and was playing the game for the past 30 minutes and no issues, though no increase in FPS either lol. I set the voltage to 1175 atm on the Titans, might do the LLC guide tomorrow and test w/ 1212 unless I don't need that to do so.
> 
> I believe the issue is w/ the Memory, unless its @ 1333 it freezes the system. So something's off with it. I might just have a bad batch, gonna lower the CPU timings tomorrow and test again.
> 
> Ignore the GPU temps I just exited the game it was hitting upwards 40C max , though I THINK I managed to disable boost? Not sure.
> 
> 
> 
> Anywhoo it's stable @ 4.5 so far will troubleshoot more tomorrow, though not seeing any gains w/ my MMO sadly, even though its not even SLI savy yet.
> 
> Currently I BSOD when shutting down though lol, only after setting OC's though, lets see if this does it again.


That's good, keep at it and you'll isolate the problem pretty soon.


----------



## rabidz7

Why not just give everything tons of volts? it will be estable.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

My XSPC RIVBE blocks are here. Luv 'em. Still gonna be a few more days before I finally get a couple days off before I get a chance to finally take my board for a spin and make sure everything's alright with it before I go to put it underwater. Fingers crossed, because my 30 day window to send it back to Newegg has long since passed. If there are any issues with my board I'll have to deal with Asus.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Why not just give everything tons of volts? it will be estable.


Good Idea, I'll do that then next week I'll start looking for a new hobby while saving up for a new computer!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> My XSPC RIVBE blocks are here. Luv 'em. Still gonna be a few more days before I finally get a couple days off before I get a chance to finally take my board for a spin and make sure everything's alright with it before I go to put it underwater. Fingers crossed, because my 30 day window to send it back to Newegg has long since passed. If there are any issues with my board I'll have to deal with Asus.


Nice didn't know XSPC made the blocks as well, do they light up by chance? lol


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Why not just give everything tons of volts? it will be estable.


Sparks. A lot of sparks.


----------



## LunaP

Imma update the BIOS today and see if that helps any. I've emailed G.Skill again as well still haven't gotten a response.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> [...] Nice didn't know XSPC made the blocks as well, do they light up by chance? lol


No, XSPCs motherboard blocks don't have a clear layer of acrylic w/ LEDs like their raystorm / razor blocks do. I really like that they are a stealthy all black w/o contrasting logos or anything.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> No, XSPCs motherboard blocks don't have a clear layer of acrylic w/ LEDs like their raystorm / razor blocks do. I really like that they are a stealthy all black w/o contrasting logos or anything.


Ahh ok still good to know.

Just installed the SB ZxR testing out the Amp w/ my new Headphones.

Lowered the Voltage on my CPU to 1.3 from 1.35 and still stable, going for 1.275 after a few more tests. GPU is fine as well.

Wondering if the new Bios Update would clear up the RAM issue?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ahh ok still good to know.
> 
> Just installed the SB ZxR testing out the Amp w/ my new Headphones.
> 
> Lowered the Voltage on my CPU to 1.3 from 1.35 and still stable, going for 1.275 after a few more tests. GPU is fine as well.
> 
> Wondering if the new Bios Update would clear up the RAM issue?


Maybe, but maybe not. It's worth trying, for sure, can't say anything bad about the new BIOS actually.

Try it out, and let us know!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Maybe, but maybe not. It's worth trying, for sure, can't say anything bad about the new BIOS actually.
> 
> Try it out, and let us know!


G.Skill responded

"

Dear Customer

No, it is because you purchased a 32GB kit, not 64GB. Sounds like the two kits are not capable of operating in the same system at the higher frequency. You will need to send them back for a 64GB and that should work great.

Thank you
GSKILL SUPPORT
"


----------



## skupples

if they are willing to swap it out for the full 64gb kit, i would definitely do it.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> G.Skill responded
> 
> "
> 
> Dear Customer
> 
> No, it is because you purchased a 32GB kit, not 64GB. Sounds like the two kits are not capable of operating in the same system at the higher frequency. You will need to send them back for a 64GB and that should work great.
> 
> Thank you
> GSKILL SUPPORT
> "


LuLz. I did done tell ya, son. Don't mix no kits, yep!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> if they are willing to swap it out for the full 64gb kit, i would definitely do it.


Yeah, if they would...that'd be mighty nice of them.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> if they are willing to swap it out for the full 64gb kit, i would definitely do it.


From the sounds of it they ignored my mention of it being a 2 month old purchase lol, almost 3 now. If they're willing to exchange it though then yeah I'm all for it. Might even drop down to 2133 if anything.

Also 1.3v is extremely stable so gonna drop down to 1.25 and see if that works if not I'll bump to 1.275.


----------



## Elvandar

Can anyone with this board that uses the onboard audio tell me if it's any good? I was considering getting a Sound Blaster ZXR sound card but I'll save the $200 if the SupremeFX Black is good enough on its own. Thanks in advance.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elvandar*
> 
> Can anyone with this board that uses the onboard audio tell me if it's any good? I was considering getting a Sound Blaster ZXR sound card but I'll save the $200 if the SupremeFX Black is good enough on its own. Thanks in advance.


I would say you have to judge it by your self. Some people have had issues with it, others think it's great.


----------



## Elvandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would say you have to judge it by your self. Some people have had issues with it, others think it's great.


Have you tried it? Do you think the sound quality on it is good enough to be comparable to the Sound Blaster Z line or do you recommend upgrading it?


----------



## skupples

I haven't had a stand alone sound card in probably 10 years.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elvandar*
> 
> Have you tried it? Do you think the sound quality on it is good enough to be comparable to the Sound Blaster Z line or do you recommend upgrading it?


So far its great, and depends on what you're looking for.

The Onboard card uses a Cirrus Logic DAC but supports up to 300Ohms supposedly on the Headphone jack.

I bought a Sound Blaster ZxR today actually to see if the Burr Brown DAC was all everyone hyped up on. I also purchased DT 880 Pro 250Ohm Headphones to test with it ( mainly since they didn't have DT990's in stock which I'm still waiting on vs ordering online )

So After setting it up today I"ll give you some feed back shortly. As far as an onboard sound card goes though, its up there and if you're not an audiophile or doing anything extreme then you'll be fine. As Skupples said its all up to your hearing as well, as somethings sound better simpler vs others that tweak the crap out of it. I'm testing the best of both, so should have a better review on it later.


----------



## Elvandar

Thank you very much, LunaP. Please post your results as it will definitely help me in deciding if I will buy the ZXR or not. Looking forward to it!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elvandar*
> 
> Can anyone with this board that uses the onboard audio tell me if it's any good? I was considering getting a Sound Blaster ZXR sound card but I'll save the $200 if the SupremeFX Black is good enough on its own. Thanks in advance.


It'd good enough for my gaming needs. I haven't encountered any problems with it. So, I will recommend it.


----------



## darocket

I'll go with the two of these cards they're a nice match for the MB.


----------



## Mega Man

meh i hate aios

ill take these ( and i will have my 7970 blocked eventually but i would be willing to bet i will have my 290xs by then and my wife will have the 7970 solo, it is more then she ever will use .




at the time of the pics i didnt have the CFX bridge covers on but you get the point will be the same for the 290xs but i will have the limited edition komodos !!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> We are happy to inform our facebook friends that Swiftech will be present in Las Vegas during CES from Jan 7 to 10, at the Mandalay Tradewind suites. Please contact [email protected] to make an appointment.
> 
> We will be introducing several new product lines, including:
> 
> - The H220X cpu cooling kit, based on Swiftech's Patent Pending technology
> - The MCP50 high pressure pump
> - A limited edition of Komodo high-end modder's blocks for AMD and NVidia latest and greatest graphics cards ..
> - And more...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/SwiftechUSA/posts/549080665183819
> 
> 
> 
> Mmm... the new blocks look tasty!
Click to expand...

dear god i did a google search and 5 of my pics were on the first page of the image search... i was like







< me in my tin foil hat ~ BIG BRO IS WATCHING


----------



## skupples

those blocks look cool, but i'm worried it would be a new top on the same block.


----------



## LunaP

Ok enough testing for tonight, got drill in the morning, gaming is stable at least.

Bios updated, and I see at least 1 change thus far, in the PCIE menu for VtD for Virtualization.

I'll go lower tomorrow. Not sure if the new bios is adding .05 to my timings as pevious ones were accurate with what I manually set. Interesting. Since in the Bios I set 1.275


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ok enough testing for tonight, got drill in the morning, gaming is stable at least.
> 
> Bios updated, and I see at least 1 change thus far, in the PCIE menu for VtD for Virtualization.
> 
> I'll go lower tomorrow. Not sure if the new bios is adding .05 to my timings as pevious ones were accurate with what I manually set. Interesting. Since in the Bios I set 1.275
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


When I enter 1.25v or 1.26v manual, it shows up 1.267v in CPU-z. I think you can get more accurate reading with a multimeter. I keep mine at 4.5GHz as my 24/7 setup also, stable at 1.26v manual settings. As for offset voltage at 4.5Ghz 7/24 settings, best I could do (as displayed on CPU-z) is 1.28v at full load... temps around 60c's, and 0.848v at x12 idle... temps around 26c's.


----------



## USFORCES

4.5GHz 24/7, you fold or something?
If your just doing normal tasks it's a waste, I have a saved bios 4.3GHz load for gaming and 5GHz for benching ect. when I need it other than that It's close to default with Intel SpeedStep enabled. Probably saves me $10 a month in electricity not to mention the CPU likes it.


----------



## erayser

True... I'll be better off dropping it down... but it's been solid at 4.5.









As for the 24/7... I meant that more as my everyday setup. I do turn off my computer.


----------



## USFORCES

I use to run my 980x at 4.4GHz 24/7 until I compared it to 3.8GHz with speedstep and it didn't make a difference except gaming and maybe how fast a couple programs opened. Why stress your CPU save it for when you need it.
You can set it to 4.5GHz with speedstep and it will only kick in when you really need it. You just don't want to use speedstep when benching and maybe gaming.


----------



## hotrod717

[
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ok enough testing for tonight, got drill in the morning, gaming is stable at least.
> 
> Bios updated, and I see at least 1 change thus far, in the PCIE menu for VtD for Virtualization.
> 
> I'll go lower tomorrow. Not sure if the new bios is adding .05 to my timings as pevious ones were accurate with what I manually set. Interesting. Since in the Bios I set 1.275


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> When I enter 1.25v or 1.26v manual, it shows up 1.267v in CPU-z. I think you can get more accurate reading with a multimeter. I keep mine at 4.5GHz as my 24/7 setup also, stable at 1.26v manual settings. As for offset voltage at 4.5Ghz 7/24 settings, best I could do (as displayed on CPU-z) is 1.28v at full load... temps around 60c's, and 0.848v at x12 idle... temps around 26c's.


LLC kicking in. Depending on the setting. you will overshoot or undershoot what you set in bios. Please read some basic Intel OC'ing guides. I've seen this come up quite a few time now.

Here are a couple good explanations-

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313466/cpu-load-line-calibration-what-is-it

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/24019-load-line-calibration-why-overclockers-should-care/


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> if they are willing to swap it out for the full 64gb kit, i would definitely do it.
> 
> 
> 
> From the sounds of it they ignored my mention of it being a 2 month old purchase lol, almost 3 now. If they're willing to exchange it though then yeah I'm all for it. Might even drop down to 2133 if anything.
> 
> Also 1.3v is extremely stable so gonna drop down to 1.25 and see if that works if not I'll bump to 1.275.
Click to expand...

I managed to get my Vcore down below 1.3 before I left to come back to AFG with the settings I sent to you the other day.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My 4930k and R4BE are finally under water. Going to try and get at least a stable 4.6


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My 4930k and R4BE are finally under water. Going to try and get at least a stable 4.6


Go for at least 4.8, 4.95 if your under water








Anyhow the board is a blast to play with


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Go for at least 4.8, 4.95 if your under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow the board is a blast to play with


My chip is a bit stubborn. Couldn't get it stable on air at 4.6.

Just flashed to the 0507 BIOS and gonna start fresh.

Still Blue Screen with Default settings.


----------



## NEOAethyr

I figured I'de post here since I cannot login to XS right now.
I killed my cpu, I figured out what happened too.
Mmtool, for some reason when I use it I get diff checksums for csmcore then the dude on the rog foroms had.
Seemed fine but it wasn't, it jacked up some voltage not sure which.
All I did was update the raid rom.
Anyways I sent my cpu in on wed, notice a dark spot on the backside.
Just checked my pump on my x60 a min ago (yeah I'm to lazy for my own good...).
Pump is fine, I can hear it and everything, not sure why the board wasn't powering it on during post...
Hoping my board is still good after all of this and that intel honers there rma like they said they would.
I tried modding the defaults for the boot logo when I 1st got my board, succesful but the cpu multiplier wouldn't change.
There's something to these bios'es that I'm just not getting yet







.
Freaking sucks to, it has dual bios but I can't put them to use...

Intel said I had voided my warrenty btw when clocking my ram past 1866.
Said they would replace it this one time.
I think they are gonna see that it was overvolted to all hell, even I never pushed it passed 1.2v







.
That worries me, I can't afford another $600 cpu.
Those doing bios mods, double check your settings before trying to boot into windows so you don't kill your cpu like I did by accident.
Make sure they are set to what you set them too.

This is the 2nd time my setup went down for me, 1st time I lost my array when installing x86 win7.
This setup has had more down time then uptime.
When it's up it's stable though.
But when it mucks up, it's the worst purchase ever.
I honestly kinda hate the mobo now.
3rd set of timings don't work, no vt, bad 32bit raid drivers, kills cpu, etc etc.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I figured I'de post here since I cannot login to XS right now.
> I killed my cpu, I figured out what happened too.
> Mmtool, for some reason when I use it I get diff checksums for csmcore then the dude on the rog foroms had.
> Seemed fine but it wasn't, it jacked up some voltage not sure which.
> All I did was update the raid rom.
> Anyways I sent my cpu in on wed, notice a dark spot on the backside.
> Just checked my pump on my x60 a min ago (yeah I'm to lazy for my own good...).
> Pump is fine, I can hear it and everything, not sure why the board wasn't powering it on during post...
> Hoping my board is still good after all of this and that intel honers there rma like they said they would.
> I tried modding the defaults for the boot logo when I 1st got my board, succesful but the cpu multiplier wouldn't change.
> There's something to these bios'es that I'm just not getting yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Freaking sucks to, it has dual bios but I can't put them to use...
> 
> Intel said I had voided my warrenty btw when clocking my ram past 1866.
> Said they would replace it this one time.
> I think they are gonna see that it was overvolted to all hell, even I never pushed it passed 1.2v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> That worries me, I can't afford another $600 cpu.
> Those doing bios mods, double check your settings before trying to boot into windows so you don't kill your cpu like I did by accident.
> Make sure they are set to what you set them too.
> 
> This is the 2nd time my setup went down for me, 1st time I lost my array when installing x86 win7.
> This setup has had more down time then uptime.
> When it's up it's stable though.
> But when it mucks up, it's the worst purchase ever.
> I honestly kinda hate the mobo now.
> 3rd set of timings don't work, no vt, bad 32bit raid drivers, kills cpu, etc etc.


huh? you mod the bios, which is beyond risky and only for extremely advanced users. then you blame the board?


----------



## seross69

lot of good info still have not decided if I am going to go from a RIVE to this????


----------



## Akadaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My chip is a bit stubborn. Couldn't get it stable on air at 4.6.
> 
> Just flashed to the 0507 BIOS and gonna start fresh.
> 
> Still Blue Screen with Default settings.


That's odd to blue screening at stock or is it the early bios bug?


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? you mod the bios, which is beyond risky and only for extremely advanced users. then you blame the board?


Sounds like he meant he only changed/modded the boot logo and it increased the voltage? I don't know, hell I've played with just about every setting and so far no fires









I can set it to 5GHz in less than a minute and bench 3Dmark, I really like this board.
.


----------



## Doug2507

What vcore are you using to bench 5.0ghz at dude?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> lot of good info still have not decided if I am going to go from a RIVE to this????


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Fixed


Here is my problem I priced going other routes like Z87 4770k around a $200 Difference. I'm sticking to my guns with the BE for now. We shall see.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthMuse*
> 
> That's odd to blue screening at stock or is it the early bios bug?


Ram problems, likely. Or just a bunk CPU.


----------



## Redshift 91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreatBeast666*
> 
> Hey guys. Did a search, but it doesn't come up with much yet..
> 
> ...but can anyone with one a R4BE clarify the current state of Linux compatibility on this board?
> 
> I'm considering building a rig around one of these, but linux compatibility for at least the basic stuff is a must.
> I'm well seasoned with linux though, so some minor hiccups and hoop-jumps are ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone runs any flavor of linux on theirs, please chime in.... any issues? Anything that doesn't work?
> 
> if not... anyone up for booting a liveCD and letting me know?


I'm catching up with the thread, forgive me if someone's responded. I booted linux mint 15 on a live flash drive last week to diagnose a hard drive issue (damn thing disappeared in windows) it ran just fine for the 10 minutes I ran it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I figured I'de post here since I cannot login to XS right now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I killed my cpu, I figured out what happened too.
> Mmtool, for some reason when I use it I get diff checksums for csmcore then the dude on the rog foroms had.
> Seemed fine but it wasn't, it jacked up some voltage not sure which.
> All I did was update the raid rom.
> Anyways I sent my cpu in on wed, notice a dark spot on the backside.
> Just checked my pump on my x60 a min ago (yeah I'm to lazy for my own good...).
> Pump is fine, I can hear it and everything, not sure why the board wasn't powering it on during post...
> Hoping my board is still good after all of this and that intel honers there rma like they said they would.
> I tried modding the defaults for the boot logo when I 1st got my board, succesful but the cpu multiplier wouldn't change.
> There's something to these bios'es that I'm just not getting yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Freaking sucks to, it has dual bios but I can't put them to use...
> 
> Intel said I had voided my warrenty btw when clocking my ram past 1866.
> Said they would replace it this one time.
> I think they are gonna see that it was overvolted to all hell, even I never pushed it passed 1.2v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> That worries me, I can't afford another $600 cpu.
> Those doing bios mods, double check your settings before trying to boot into windows so you don't kill your cpu like I did by accident.
> Make sure they are set to what you set them too.
> 
> This is the 2nd time my setup went down for me, 1st time I lost my array when installing x86 win7.
> This setup has had more down time then uptime.
> When it's up it's stable though.
> But when it mucks up, it's the worst purchase ever.
> I honestly kinda hate the mobo now.
> 3rd set of timings don't work, no vt, bad 32bit raid drivers, kills cpu, etc etc.


The worst thing intel will do is charge you 25-35$ for an "Intel tuning plan" which covers the CPU once you have voided the stock warranty.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The worst thing intel will do is charge you 25-35$ for an "Intel tuning plan" which covers the CPU once you have voided the stock warranty.


Which I think is awesome. If you're smart about OC, you'll lose stability before hitting danger zones is most cases, so for the small fee for when you make a mistake on your own is pretty damn good, For everything else that might go wrong, the standard RMA applies. SO no matter how your chip dies, you get at least one replacement for what amounts to shipping and handling charges.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Which I think is awesome. If you're smart about OC, you'll lose stability before hitting danger zones is most cases, so for the small fee for when you make a mistake on your own is pretty damn good, For everything else that might go wrong, the standard RMA applies. SO no matter how your chip dies, you get at least one replacement for what amounts to shipping and handling charges.










Yupp! I have the tuning plan for my 3930k!

by the way, do you know if strapping mini-clips to the end of my DMM probes will mess up readings? Sticking them to the little points is a major PITA.

these little things


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yupp! I have the tuning plan for my 3930k!
> 
> by the way, do you know if strapping mini-clips to the end of my DMM probes will mess up readings? Sticking them to the little points is a major PITA.
> 
> these little things


I just solder wires to the board. Them clips are gonna be too big. Otherwise, yeah ,should be fine. Cheap clips may affect readings, but you can figure out that easy enough. I kinda miss having wires that plug into sockets for this.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The worst thing intel will do is charge you 25-35$ for an "Intel tuning plan" which covers the CPU once you have voided the stock warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> Which I think is awesome. If you're smart about OC, you'll lose stability before hitting danger zones is most cases, so for the small fee for when you make a mistake on your own is pretty damn good, For everything else that might go wrong, the standard RMA applies. SO no matter how your chip dies, you get at least one replacement for what amounts to shipping and handling charges.
Click to expand...

translation, we mark up an additional 100% the chips cost and then charge you the shipping + ins to get the chip to you


----------



## LCRava

Hi guys,

Just got a new board yesterday and I am having issues that I am hoping someone can give me ideas on how to fix. After the initial BIOS setup (regardless if I make changes to any settings or not), upon rebooting the board hangs with code 01, shuts down and restarts, then hanging again at code 01, shutting down and restarting and so on. If I clear the CMOS, it boots and then asks for F1 to configure BIOS settings and the whole thing starts over again (reminding me of an episode of "The Dead Zone"







).

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.









(All I have hooked up to it are the CPU, 2 sticks of RAM, 1 GPU and 1 PSU. All components were tested individually and are working flawlessly).


----------



## USFORCES

Memory all good?


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Memory all good?


Yes sir! This is the 4th board I'll replace and the 3 previous boards at least got to Windows with the same components.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Memory all good?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes sir! This is the _*4th board I'll replace and the 3 previous boards*_ at least got to Windows with the same components.
Click to expand...

i dont know sounds suspect to me


----------



## skupples

isn't 01 a memory code? Should have a list of debug codes in your Asus book of goodness.


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> isn't 01 a memory code? Should have a list of debug codes in your Asus book of goodness.


I checked the manual and it says 01 is a code for "reset request" or something like that, not any kind of RAM problem. I used Memtest on all the modules and they've all passed individually and in conjunction...

My gut tells me I've been freakishly unlucky with this motherboard.

I have another set of RAM I can test it with so I'll try it out. If anyone have any other ideas I am all ears. Thanks again.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> I checked the manual and it says 01 is a code for "reset request" or something like that, not any kind of RAM problem. I used Memtest on all the modules and they've all passed individually and in conjunction...
> 
> My gut tells me I've been freakishly unlucky with this motherboard.
> 
> I have another set of RAM I can test it with so I'll try it out. If anyone have any other ideas I am all ears. Thanks again.


did you socket your cpu up side down?


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> did you socket your cpu up side down?


Hey Skupples. CPU is fine. I am 99% positive is the board.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Hey Skupples. CPU is fine. I am 99% positive is the board.


it's just amazing you have now been through 4 of them. That's some seriously epic odds. should go buy a strip of lotto tickets.


----------



## King4x4

So I had the wifi die on me yesterday on the mobo.

Tried everything but it won't search on the local network. Disabled it on the bios and reenabled it and no go.

Only thing that worked was to clear cmos! Then all of a sudden it worked dandy again!

It died after a days hibernartion... came up and then went off.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont know sounds suspect to me


He RMA 3 healthy boards, and received one that blew up. Or it can be badly seated CPU.


----------



## jokrik

Has anyone ever experience 00 code?
I've mine running on air when I received it a month ago, everything works fine
and today I've finished my WC loop, leak tested and booted it
I get 00 code straight away no boot or display on monitor whatsoever , tried to cmos reset, bios switch, unplugged all drives
none worked out

anyone for guidance please?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Has anyone ever experience 00 code?
> I've mine running on air when I received it a month ago, everything works fine
> and today I've finished my WC loop, leak tested and booted it
> I get 00 code straight away no boot or display on monitor whatsoever , tried to cmos reset, bios switch, unplugged all drives
> none worked out
> 
> anyone for guidance please?


that is the error code that happens in Indonesia!!!







I was kidding but maybe I am right as the book says not used... do you have anything plugged into the cpu fan header if not do this and maybe it will help!!!

I am in Balikphapan


----------



## Raghar

Manual says 00 code doesn't exist. Have you plugged in all cables? 24-pin and 8-pin.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> that is the error code that happens in Indonesia!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was kidding but maybe I am right as the book says not used... do you have anything plugged into the cpu fan header if not do this and maybe it will help!!!
> 
> I am in Balikphapan


Firstly you spelled the city wrong lol
Secondly, no I dont have anything plugged in the fan header

Not sure what went wrong , Ive even unplugged all the sata and gpu cables

Still 00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Manual says 00 code doesn't exist. Have you plugged in all cables? 24-pin and 8-pin.


Yes I do, else I cant turn it on and see the code









Does bios flashback help even if I cant enter bios ?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Has anyone ever experience 00 code?
> I've mine running on air when I received it a month ago, everything works fine
> and today I've finished my WC loop, leak tested and booted it
> I get 00 code straight away no boot or display on monitor whatsoever , tried to cmos reset, bios switch, unplugged all drives
> none worked out
> 
> anyone for guidance please?


Read marc0053's posts in this thread page:

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1151946/official-asus-rog-rampage-iv-x79-owners-club/8230*


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Firstly you spelled the city wrong lol
> Secondly, no I dont have anything plugged in the fan header
> 
> Not sure what went wrong , Ive even unplugged all the sata and gpu cables
> 
> Still 00
> Yes I do, else I cant turn it on and see the code
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does bios flashback help even if I cant enter bios ?


plug a fan into this and see if it will boot. I have had this on other boards and i had to do this to disable the fan header in the bios. hey just because I cant spell it don't mean I am not here!


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it's just amazing you have now been through 4 of them. That's some seriously epic odds. should go buy a strip of lotto tickets.


To be fair I got 3 bad boards. One of them was working flawlessly but it died due to an undetected leak from the middle of the block of my first Video Card. 3 drops was all it took to fry the board. I am 100% certain all the other components are working 100%. I tested them all (with the exception of the CPU of course) on a Maximus VI Gene I am using on another build.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Yes I do, else I cant turn it on and see the code
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does bios flashback help even if I cant enter bios ?


Sure you can, plug in 24-pin only, and you'd see all error codes you want. Or was it 8-pin only.

Remove both your GFX card and try again. And before check if MB doesn't have any contact with case. Have you heard about users which didn't use spacers? And about water cooling which silently leaked water under BIOS battery?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I dont have anything plugged in the fan header


When there is no cpu fan you can get 00 and no pic. Plug a fan into the cpu fan header and try booting then. (Enter bios and in Hardware monitoring set fan monitoring to ignore so the empty header doesn't matter. Then unplug it without getting boot halt.) See if that helps.


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> He RMA 3 healthy boards, and received one that blew up. Or it can be badly seated CPU.


The boards were anything but healthy. They all had random shutdowns/reboot issue. Sorry to disappoint you but nothing "blew up". If the CPU was bad or "badly seated", I would not be able to install windows on all 3 previous boards but this one. And this one would not even get to the BIOS which does successfully 100% of the time right after I clear the CMOS.


----------



## Raghar

Your first MB was healthy until you dropped 3 drops of water on it from a leaking GFX card water loop. If it blew up additional components is unknown.

BTW can you boot into Windoze with only one SSD? Or better what about grabbing a spare HDD and installing on it W7/Linux just for kicks and try it?

jokrik
Actually, yes it might be something as simple as that. Surprisingly even when it's an overclocker board, it requires a fan plugged into CPU fan socket. Then you can disable it in BIOS. Normally MBs are claiming CPU/PSU fan failure, however they boot anyway.


----------



## LCRava

Cool, I think I figured it out...somewhat. I changed to the second BIOS (pressed the button on the board) and it booted into windows without issues. Will continue to test and post findings. Thanks for all that helped.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Seems only natural that I should post this here. This was my mini project for the day. Only took a half hour tops. A nickel block covered with an ultra thin layer of matte black vinyl. Only the top surface that you see is covered in vinyl, not the entire block.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1921.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1925.jpg.html


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Read marc0053's posts in this thread page:
> 
> *http://www.overclock.net/t/1151946/official-asus-rog-rampage-iv-x79-owners-club/8230*


Well that's bad, but I'm pretty sure none of my cables and broken









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> plug a fan into this and see if it will boot. I have had this on other boards and i had to do this to disable the fan header in the bios. hey just because I cant spell it don't mean I am not here!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Sure you can, plug in 24-pin only, and you'd see all error codes you want. Or was it 8-pin only.
> 
> Remove both your GFX card and try again. And before check if MB doesn't have any contact with case. Have you heard about users which didn't use spacers? And about water cooling which silently leaked water under BIOS battery?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> When there is no cpu fan you can get 00 and no pic. Plug a fan into the cpu fan header and try booting then. (Enter bios and in Hardware monitoring set fan monitoring to ignore so the empty header doesn't matter. Then unplug it without getting boot halt.) See if that helps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> jokrik
> Actually, yes it might be something as simple as that. Surprisingly even when it's an overclocker board, it requires a fan plugged into CPU fan socket. Then you can disable it in BIOS. Normally MBs are claiming CPU/PSU fan failure, however they boot anyway.


Tried all of the above







even used one RAM to test
still a no go








I'm gonna drain the system and run it on air again and see how it goes
Hopefully its only a badly seated cpu

and I did have a leakage but it was when I do the leak test which means only the pump was turn on
it was around the south bridge and I'm pretty sure its no biggie since I let it sit and leak test it again for at least 24 hours, by that time it's already dried out
I had major leakage on my past rig, even drowned my old motherboard but it still run til this day


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Cool, I think I figured it out...somewhat. I changed to the second BIOS (pressed the button on the board) and it booted into windows without issues. Will continue to test and post findings. Thanks for all that helped.


Well. It looks like a third defective board in the row. You are lucky it wasn't anything more serious than a defective BIOS chip. Third? Actually what are the defect rates of RIVE, and RIV BE?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I'm gonna drain the system and run it on air again and see how it goes
> Hopefully its only a badly seated cpu


If it worked on air, it might be even something as simple as a CPU heatsink too tightly, or too loosely, screwed to the CPU.

What liquid have you used? Distilled water?


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Seems only natural that I should post this here. This was my mini project for the day. Only took a half hour tops. A nickel block covered with an ultra thin layer of matte black vinyl. Only the top surface that you see is covered in vinyl, not the entire block.


That looks nice









I've always liked clear blocks.


----------



## Ftimster

Hay guys my system has been solid untill today now out of the blue I'm getting the shut down reboot thing (only recent major chang is new bios flash)ran prim95 and 5-10 min shutdown. reboot sitting at desktop not doing jack... Reboot???? Hummm tryed upping vcore from its normally 1.350 to 1.360 nothing and even stranger can game no problem has there been anything on this? I'm hoping to flash back to older release bios any ideas thanks llc dig+ settings have always been set to auto accept optimized phase controlled and xmp profile for my 2400 mem all cores sync to 48 vcore 1.360 has always been great.... Wish I new more about CPU vtt all the setting related to CPU volts? all set to auto and has always been good any help would be helpful not at home but going now after UFC...can I flash back to old bios? Should I clear CMOS and start over can't help but think its one little CPU volt setting thanks


----------



## jokrik

My RIVBE is officially dead due to unknown reason








Lucky the seller would RMA it for me...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> My RIVBE is officially dead due to unknown reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lucky the seller would RMA it for me...


sorry to hear that hope it does not take too long and they don't blame it on you!!! Good luck with this and hope you are gaming soon!!!


----------



## _REAPER_

Was there a recent firmware update with the BIOS update on this MOBO? If so can you post the link


----------



## USFORCES

My new gaming setting using 64gb of ram running at 1866MHz 11-11-11-28 T2 and perfectly stable


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> My new gaming setting using 64gb of ram running at 1866MHz 11-11-11-28 T2 and perfectly stable


can you shoot me your bios settings for 4.5ghz on PM. I would appreciate screen shots if you could. I only have 32gig in my pc right now I could not get 64gig stable


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> sorry to hear that hope it does not take too long and they don't blame it on you!!! Good luck with this and hope you are gaming soon!!!


Thx for your help man
So where are you located again?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Thx for your help man
> So where are you located again?


balikpapan


----------



## reev3r

So, I have a couple of queries regarding my R4BE and CPU-Z.

First, there is a sound that occurs, just prior to windows loading. I know it is a relay, but I do not understand what the relay is for, as I have never heard/experienced this before. The relay fires, and immediately the LED's on my Logitech G710+ keyboard go out. One would assume that the relay would fire once more when the lights come back on, but this is not the case. Which leads me to believe that the relay and lights are unrelated and just happen at the same time, or that there is something wonky going on...

I have read that many people are experiencing two pops as soon as they power on, coming through their speakers, but I do not experience this, just the relay firing as Windows loads, as well, I have read all over that the relay is audio related, and that it is for the OPAMP, as stated, this may just be coincidental, drivers loading at the same time and kicking out the power to USB, and the relay firing due to drivers loading... Any help would be appreciated...

Second, I have done a total of three Windows installations on my R4BE, and I have had the exact same problem with the included CPU-Z every time. Upon loading the software, the left, roughly 25% of the window does not load! as well! it seems that the interface is also off by that much! so in order to click on something I can see! I have to move the mouse to the far left of it, otherwise I am clicking to the right of the item... I have never experienced this glitch before, I do not know if it is a configuration file issue, or some portion of the theme is missing, or just not being installed correctly, I have never experienced this issue with the Standard version of CPU-Z that I have downloaded, so it is certainly from the software I have, I had previously thought that it was because of the ROG theme that is included, but in seeing others have the same software installed, and they do not have this issue, there is surely something amiss with my installation... Once more. Any guidance is appreciated!

Thank you kindly,

~Jacob


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> can you shoot me your bios settings for 4.5ghz on PM. I would appreciate screen shots if you could. I only have 32gig in my pc right now I could not get 64gig stable


Be a minute and it will cost you dearly


----------



## Doug2507

Not sure if this will help any of you guys but worth letting you know anyway&#8230;.

I've got RIVEBE for benching and M6E for the rig. I've just rebuilt my rig swapping out my MSI board for the M6E. OS was already pre-installed/updated etc with a handful of programs already there. I swapped out the boards & ran the rig no problem. I then flashed the board to the latest BIOS (still no problem) then started installing the drivers & utilities from the ASUS disk. All was going well then the rig started shutting down near enough every half hour of it's own accord, this then became more frequent till i couldn't boot and had to do a system restore back to before i fitted the new board.

Can't remember the BSOD details (will check later) but essentially i think i narrowed it down to the RST driver causing some sort of conflict. Not sure if this is due to the new BIOS but if i had the full ASUS suite installed 1st before BIOS update it would have been very hard to pin-point what was going wrong. Different board but maybe something worth checking out.









Guess the best way to rule out a software issue would be to disconnect current OS drive, plug in a spare, load OS and see if it runs peachy.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> can you shoot me your bios settings for 4.5ghz on PM. I would appreciate screen shots if you could. I only have 32gig in my pc right now I could not get 64gig stable
> 
> 
> 
> Be a minute and it will cost you dearly
Click to expand...

How about you PM me your address and I will send you a MARSOC patch. I am currently in AFG right now but my brother in law has my PC.


----------



## raw2dogmeat

Ftimster.....

Try to apply these settings in post number 4. I had the random reboots pop up and was ready to rma the board until HalloweenWeed helped at Asus forums. Hope it helps. Mine stopped immediately and haven't had one since!! LINK - http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?42460-Load-Line-Calibration-amp-CPU-Capability-need-HELP&country=&status= I can tell you what volts and other settings I use also it you'd like to try, but I think the Digi settings are probably what made the difference, just my opinion. My 4930 is at 4.4 with hyperthreading enabled.


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> Hay guys my system has been solid untill today now out of the blue I'm getting the shut down reboot thing (only recent major chang is new bios flash)ran prim95 and 5-10 min shutdown. reboot sitting at desktop not doing jack... Reboot???? Hummm tryed upping vcore from its normally 1.350 to 1.360 nothing and even stranger can game no problem has there been anything on this? I'm hoping to flash back to older release bios any ideas thanks llc dig+ settings have always been set to auto accept optimized phase controlled and xmp profile for my 2400 mem all cores sync to 48 vcore 1.360 has always been great.... Wish I new more about CPU vtt all the setting related to CPU volts? all set to auto and has always been good any help would be helpful not at home but going now after UFC...can I flash back to old bios? Should I clear CMOS and start over can't help but think its one little CPU volt setting thanks


same thing happened to me with the new bios & no you cant flash back.

you have to switch to the second bios then have it flash back bios 1


----------



## LCRava

Thanks for all that chimed in. After doing 4 passes of Memtest, the motherboard is hanging with code "00", which according to the manual is not used. Clear CMOS or changing BIOS chip is not helping. Time to send this back and get a new one. This is the last time I'll try this board. I am sure it would be an awesome board if I could get a working one.


----------



## adajamali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> So, I have a couple of queries regarding my R4BE and CPU-Z.
> 
> Hi Jacob,
> 
> My R4BE does the same as you mentioned I hear relay click @ windows startup/ shutdown, how ever at startup my razer black widow keyboard LEDs go off with click for a sec or two, I had this since day one and my previous R4E had same thing withy keyboard but didn't have relay click, I guess the click is there because R4BE has high end built in sound card, I had the question regarding click at another forum, and Raja reply was the same it's normal and relay switch is turning on and off.
> 
> First, there is a sound that occurs, just prior to windows loading. I know it is a relay, but I do not understand what the relay is for, as I have never heard/experienced this before. The relay fires, and immediately the LED's on my Logitech G710+ keyboard go out. One would assume that the relay would fire once more when the lights come back on, but this is not the case. Which leads me to believe that the relay and lights are unrelated and just happen at the same time, or that there is something wonky going on...
> 
> I have read that many people are experiencing two pops as soon as they power on, coming through their speakers, but I do not experience this, just the relay firing as Windows loads, as well, I have read all over that the relay is audio related, and that it is for the OPAMP, as stated, this may just be coincidental, drivers loading at the same time and kicking out the power to USB, and the relay firing due to drivers loading... Any help would be appreciated...
> 
> Second, I have done a total of three Windows installations on my R4BE, and I have had the exact same problem with the included CPU-Z every time. Upon loading the software, the left, roughly 25% of the window does not load! as well! it seems that the interface is also off by that much! so in order to click on something I can see! I have to move the mouse to the far left of it, otherwise I am clicking to the right of the item... I have never experienced this glitch before, I do not know if it is a configuration file issue, or some portion of the theme is missing, or just not being installed correctly, I have never experienced this issue with the Standard version of CPU-Z that I have downloaded, so it is certainly from the software I have, I had previously thought that it was because of the ROG theme that is included, but in seeing others have the same software installed, and they do not have this issue, there is surely something amiss with my installation... Once more. Any guidance is appreciated!
> 
> Thank you kindly,
> 
> ~Jacob


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Thanks for all that chimed in. After doing 4 passes of Memtest, the motherboard is hanging with code "00", which according to the manual is not used. Clear CMOS or changing BIOS chip is not helping. Time to send this back and get a new one. This is the last time I'll try this board. I am sure it would be an awesome board if I could get a working one.


We are on the same boat, on the same day
Going to send it for RMA tomorrow







I dont know the cause tbh


----------



## adajamali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adajamali*


My R4EBE does the same relay click at startup/shutdown and my razer black widow LEDs go off for a section or two, and it's normal. According to Raja it's a relay switch turning on and off and making click noise.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adajamali*
> 
> My R4EBE does the same relay click at startup/shutdown and my razer black widow LEDs go off for a section or two, and it's normal. According to Raja it's a relay switch turning on and off and making click noise.


Totally normal ! All my ASUS Board ever had this "click".


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> We are on the same boat, on the same day
> Going to send it for RMA tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont know the cause tbh


I am sorry this happened my friend. For me it's been 4 months altogether working on this system. It'll have to work at some point







.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adajamali*
> 
> My R4EBE does the same relay click at startup/shutdown and my razer black widow LEDs go off for a section or two, and it's normal. According to Raja it's a relay switch turning on and off and making click noise.


There are multiple clicks coming from the board. The sound relay, and one or two other unknown physical clicks... All normal... Also, the keyboards/mice turning off & on is also normal. It's part of the system loading up the USB drivers I believe.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Was there a recent firmware update with the BIOS update on this MOBO? If so can you post the link


Link is on the first page in the OP , direct link to download.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> My new gaming setting using 64gb of ram running at 1866MHz 11-11-11-28 T2 and perfectly stable


Any changes made to voltage or anything else? VTT , VSAA , DRAM etc? I'm currently @ 4.5 on 1.25v on my CPU, everything else is on auto for now. I haven't had time to test lower yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> can you shoot me your bios settings for 4.5ghz on PM. I would appreciate screen shots if you could. I only have 32gig in my pc right now I could not get 64gig stable


Easier if its just posted here for everyone to see.


----------



## navynuke499

Man, hearing everyone with all these problems really concerns me about how my board is going to be. I finally get to put it all together on Wednesday. I guess I can hope things go well.


----------



## raw2dogmeat

Now my random restarts are back, none in like 2 weeks....ZERO changes to anything since I found bios settings that worked perfect...wth!?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raw2dogmeat*
> 
> *Now my random restarts are back, none in like 2 weeks*....ZERO changes to anything since I found bios settings that worked perfect...wth!?


That happened with my original RIVE when I first started mine. It went on for 3 months, with random LAN updates in the middle of the night, and there wasn't much I could do about it, as much as I tried. After a while though it finally stopped on its own.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Here are more pics of my modified EK board blocks with the black vinyl overlaid on nickel. Once I find some polishing materials, I'll go back in and shine up the acrylic. So far though, I like how they came out.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1936.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1937.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1935.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1940.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1941.jpg.html

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1942.jpg.html


----------



## skupples

I <3 how I have Voltage set to 1.4 in the bios, but i'm reading ~1.45 off of the boards contacts. 1.45 set in the bios, still 1.45 on the contacts. LLC @ high.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I <3 how I have Voltage set to 1.4 in the bios, but i'm reading ~1.45 off of the boards contacts. 1.45 set in the bios, still 1.45 on the contacts. LLC @ high.


Can you check voltages 1.2 V, 1.25 V, and 1.3 V on regular LLC and on high LLC?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Can you check voltages 1.2 V, 1.25 V, and 1.3 V on regular LLC and on high LLC?


just checked bios again. I had it on ultra high. Dropped it down to High.... CPU-Z now reads 1.408 - 1.424, board reads 1.41 - 1.434 (@ 1.4 set)

This is on a pocket-pro DMM.


----------



## USFORCES

Here's a little more detailed settings and speedstep is on.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Here's a little more detailed settings and speedstep is on.


I was always afraid to mess w/ the settings in windows due to having things on auto. Unless you're showing what you have in the bios using the utility, would love to see some bios screenshots of the areas you made changes at next time you boot up.


----------



## asfgbdnf

not bad, nice job


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I was always afraid to mess w/ the settings in windows due to having things on auto. Unless you're showing what you have in the bios using the utility, would love to see some bios screenshots of the areas you made changes at next time you boot up.


It's not recommended to use Asus Suite and in a lot of cases, it will cause instability any way. TurboVcore light on the other hand is what most benchers will use. Here is what an efficient 4.6 oc should look like:

Leaving things on auto like cpu pll, vcssa, and vtt will push way more volts than what is required and thus increase thermals. The trick with these chips is getting a high oc.


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Here are more pics of my modified EK board blocks with the black vinyl overlaid on nickel. Once I find some polishing materials, I'll go back in and shine up the acrylic. So far though, I like how they came out.
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1936.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1937.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1935.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1940.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1941.jpg.html
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1942.jpg.html


Where are the pics on board?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> Where are the pics on board?


I just finished polishing the water channels a little while ago, but I should have them on the board either tonight or tomorrow. I just have to run some leak tests on them first, which I'm about to do right now.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Sorry to hear that some of you are having issues. I want to say that my board has been working great. I came from the RIVE to this, so I have experience with the bios already when it comes to SB-E.

Only thing that was annoying was the sound thump at start up, but have learned to live with that. Besides I might update my speaker system and use the optical link which doesn't thump at start up.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Sorry to hear that some of you are having issues. I want to say that my board has been working great. I came from the RIVE to this, so I have experience with the bios already when it comes to SB-E.
> 
> Only thing that was annoying was the sound thump at start up, but have learned to live with that. Besides I might update my speaker system and use the optical link which doesn't thump at start up.


was it worth the money to move to BE from the RIVE? what were the real benefits??


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> was it worth the money to move to BE from the RIVE? what were the real benefits??


Not worth the money. Seems to be more for the looks than anything. I was hoping for lower voltage with the same clocks as on the RIVE, but it isn't the case with SB-E. Could very well make a difference with IVY-E, not sure.

There is a tad better latency when it comes to ram. I'm happy with the switch though, no regrets. Something I would have thought about and bugged me for some time if I didn't get the Black.

But if you have a RIVE already, just keep it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Not worth the money. Seems to be more for the looks than anything. I was hoping for lower voltage with the same clocks as on the RIVE, but it isn't the case with SB-E. Could very well make a difference with IVY-E, not sure.
> 
> There is a tad better latency when it comes to ram. I'm happy with the switch though, no regrets. Something I would have thought about and bugged me for some time if I didn't get the Black.
> 
> But if you have a RIVE already, just keep it.


thank you for this and this is what I was thinking because I really did not see the sense in going to BE unless I was going to go to IVY-E and really you are talking about a lot money for really small gains I would think.


----------



## Ftimster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raw2dogmeat*
> 
> Ftimster.....
> 
> Try to apply these settings in post number 4. I had the random reboots pop up and was ready to rma the board until HalloweenWeed helped at Asus forums. Hope it helps. Mine stopped immediately and haven't had one since!! LINK - http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?42460-Load-Line-Calibration-amp-CPU-Capability-need-HELP&country=&status= I can tell you what volts and other settings I use also it you'd like to try, but I think the Digi settings are probably what made the difference, just my opinion. My 4930 is at 4.4 with hyperthreading enabled.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> My RIVBE is officially dead due to unknown reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lucky the seller would RMA it for me...


man i hope i get this sorted i have herd vccathanks raw!! I was able to flash back to 403 and am good again geeezzz I think losing their bios team is starting to show


----------



## Ftimster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nunzi*
> 
> same thing happened to me with the new bios & no you cant flash back.
> 
> you have to switch to the second bios then have it flash back bios 1


i was able to flash back to 403 with usb stick both flashed back for me there's a lot to be said for if it ain't broke don't fix it!!!!


----------



## LunaP

Using USFORCES settings I was able to pull 64gb stable @ 2133, I'm happy w/ this and still @ 1.25v in bios w/ the CPU.

Gonna try and tweak timings a TAD later and see what I get.


----------



## gdubc

^that is great to hear!


----------



## erayser

I'm stable at the same voltage as LunaP at 4.5Ghz, but still torn on going with 1.25v manual fixed... or sticking with offset with less than optimal voltage at high LLC. I'm thinking of just lowering my clock... after seeing our last electric bill... LOL... What is everyone using here... manual fixed or offset?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I'm stable at the same voltage as LunaP at 4.5Ghz, but still torn on going with 1.25v manual fixed... or sticking with offset with less than optimal voltage at high LLC. I'm thinking of just lowering my clock... after seeing our last electric bill... LOL... What is everyone using here... manual fixed or offset?


I'm gonna try and drop it down to 1.23 later, as I've yet to run into issues now that I've been getting the just of how things work. Temps are all below 40C usually low 30's though CPU does touch 40 sometimes when gaming a while and in big maps but probably due to the stress the MMO puts on it + other things int eh background.

Does it really affect the electric bill that much? Lol

We're on Solar power now so our Electricity bill went from 600-700 down to 40-130 depending on if we're using the A/C or not which we aren't for the winter. Im guess I'll add maybe 20-30$ a month to the bill tops?

Also as far as offset vs manual I'm still not savy enough to understand the differences which I'll probably read up more on at work since when I'm home ( and have time ) I prefer to just game and use my time vs stress out, though I've gotten a lot down thanks to all this. Pretty sure I could push 2400 at this rate lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna try and drop it down to 1.23 later, as I've yet to run into issues now that I've been getting the just of how things work. Temps are all below 40C usually low 30's though CPU does touch 40 sometimes when gaming a while and in big maps but probably due to the stress the MMO puts on it + other things int eh background.
> 
> Does it really affect the electric bill that much? Lol
> 
> We're on Solar power now so our Electricity bill went from 600-700 down to 40-130 depending on if we're using the A/C or not which we aren't for the winter. Im guess I'll add maybe 20-30$ a month to the bill tops?
> 
> Also as far as offset vs manual I'm still not savy enough to understand the differences which I'll probably read up more on at work since when I'm home ( and have time ) I prefer to just game and use my time vs stress out, though I've gotten a lot down thanks to all this. Pretty sure I could push 2400 at this rate lol.


jeesh, 40c on the CPU? That's nuts! I'm happy with 70c on this 3930k, & I doubt any more radiators would really help. We run the house ~72 this time of year. Seeing people talk about ivy-e voltages throws me for a loop! I'm @ 1.425v @ 4.9 which I keep telling my self is good, but I have few people to compare to in this thread. I can go over to the SB-E club, but i t;s LOTS of digging for that kind of information @ this point in the game.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna try and drop it down to 1.23 later, as I've yet to run into issues now that I've been getting the just of how things work. Temps are all below 40C usually low 30's though CPU does touch 40 sometimes when gaming a while and in big maps but probably due to the stress the MMO puts on it + other things int eh background.
> 
> Does it really affect the electric bill that much? Lol
> 
> We're on Solar power now so our Electricity bill went from 600-700 down to 40-130 depending on if we're using the A/C or not which we aren't for the winter. Im guess I'll add maybe 20-30$ a month to the bill tops?
> 
> Also as far as offset vs manual I'm still not savy enough to understand the differences which I'll probably read up more on at work since when I'm home ( and have time ) I prefer to just game and use my time vs stress out, though I've gotten a lot down thanks to all this. Pretty sure I could push 2400 at this rate lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jeesh, 40c on the CPU? That's nuts! I'm happy with 70c on this 3930k, & I doubt any more radiators would really help. We run the house ~72 this time of year. Seeing people talk about ivy-e voltages throws me for a loop! I'm @ 1.425v @ 4.9 which I keep telling my self is good, but I have few people to compare to in this thread. I can go over to the SB-E club, but i t;s LOTS of digging for that kind of information @ this point in the game.
Click to expand...

I think you should just move on to a 4930K.. just me thinking out-loud


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm gonna try and drop it down to 1.23 later, as I've yet to run into issues now that I've been getting the just of how things work. Temps are all below 40C usually low 30's though CPU does touch 40 sometimes when gaming a while and in big maps but probably due to the stress the MMO puts on it + other things int eh background.
> 
> Does it really affect the electric bill that much? Lol
> 
> We're on Solar power now so our Electricity bill went from 600-700 down to 40-130 depending on if we're using the A/C or not which we aren't for the winter. Im guess I'll add maybe 20-30$ a month to the bill tops?
> 
> Also as far as offset vs manual I'm still not savy enough to understand the differences which I'll probably read up more on at work since when I'm home ( and have time ) I prefer to just game and use my time vs stress out, though I've gotten a lot down thanks to all this. Pretty sure I could push 2400 at this rate lol.


I doubt it was all me, but our last electric bill doubled ($300+). Usually I could blame that on A/C, but not during winter... LOL. I just know, since I finished with my build, I've playing with it non-stop (games, OCing, benchmarking... etc)... and with all the stability testing... it might be my fault.









I've been telling my wife we should look into Solar power. Maybe I can use this as an excuse.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Using USFORCES settings I was able to pull 64gb stable @ 2133, I'm happy w/ this and still @ 1.25v in bios w/ the CPU.
> 
> Gonna try and tweak timings a TAD later and see what I get.


2133MHz Cool, at 2000MHz my bench scores are a little higher but I'm just running 1866 for now. Main thing is it getting 64gb of memory really stable after that your good to go. I've had this thing overclocked up to 4.8gb with 64gb but much higher I have to pull 32gb out, I'm sure it could be done though.

I just finished updating my G19 led screen for the new board







I have to get another probe for the case that's why it's at 0C, I'm putting the 3 motherboard temp probes to use.


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> jeesh, 40c on the CPU? That's nuts! I'm happy with 70c on this 3930k, & I doubt any more radiators would really help. We run the house ~72 this time of year. Seeing people talk about ivy-e voltages throws me for a loop! I'm @ 1.425v @ 4.9 which I keep telling my self is good, but I have few people to compare to in this thread. I can go over to the SB-E club, but i t;s LOTS of digging for that kind of information @ this point in the game.


It is good.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 2133MHz Cool, at 2000MHz my bench scores are a little higher but I'm just running 1866 for now. Main thing is it getting 64gb of memory really stable after that your good to go. I've had this thing overclocked up to 4.8gb with 64gb but much higher I have to pull 32gb out, I'm sure it could be done though.
> 
> I just finished updating my G19 led screen for the new board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to get another probe for the case that's why it's at 0C, I'm putting the 3 motherboard temp probes to use.


Gaming for a few hours on max and CPU / GPU's cranked up and no issues that + VM's in the background as well as tons of Chrome tabs, so far seems pretty stable.

Anyway to set CPU profiles as well just like GPU profiles ? I forgot how to turn on GPUBoost w/ my Titans, but would be kinda cool to have profiles to O/C the CPU on and off while in windows vs rebooting each time. Unless there is a way o-o?

You're temping me to get a keyboard w/ an LCD screen as that's pretty useful, as since I'm still new to WC I'm constnatly monitoring my temps lol. Saw my CPU jump from 35-40 super fast then back and almost freaked.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I think you should just move on to a 4930K.. just me thinking out-loud


I will be in the future, once the batches get just a tad bit better...

18c on a 4960x? Must be freezing inside your house









Luna, our power bills have gone up 1-2$ a day since adding the third titan & the 3930k, which I don't use speedstep on. I do how ever force throttle my titans, which cuts them down to like 5% TDP from ~20% TDP idle (surround is a whore)


----------



## USFORCES

Nice to see you got it, I think fro everyone it's going to be different no matter if you have the same memory or not. Did you mess with the voltage on the memory at all? I haven't yet but I read you can increase it a little to get it stable strange thing mine has been running at 1.67v in auto I think because I played with the AI suite 3 and it set it like that, it runs fine so I'm going to leave it hopefully it last lifetime warranty anyhow








I was going to say use speed step with it set to 4.5GHz, you are anyhow aren't you?

Yeah make sure you save the profiles in the BIOs that's a handy feature.


----------



## LunaP

Speed step is on auto atm ill test it on enabled tomorrow after work. Currently in bed catching up on threads to help me fall asleep.

Windows show 3.6 oddly though cpuz shows 4.5

Ill verify my settings but ram is at 1.65 for now i think i set vcsaa to 120% that or 110% iirc. Creating a wider path seemed to have opened new doors without compromising.

Im on bios 0504 btw.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I will be in the future, once the batches get just a tad bit better...
> 
> 18c on a 4960x? Must be freezing inside your house


The batch I got is a B and it seems to OC really well on water. Actually it's 70 in my computer room, case has a cold air intake from outside I've been doing it like this for a few years now, -31.11C tomorrow time for some serious overclocking.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Installed... I'll get started on bending some acrylic connectors tomorrow.



http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1950.jpg.html


----------



## USFORCES

Oh yeah that's sexy, looks better than mine.









Hey when you removed the factory heatsink what did your express chipset look like? I noticed mine looked like someone used a hot glue gun on it, lol
Did yours look like this?


----------



## SDMODNoob

After removing my system and putting it back together, my onboard sound no longer detects my headset. I can play sound and hear them through my monitors no problem. However, it does not detect my headset through the 3.5mm jacks at all or through my front panel. Do you guys think the bios update changed something for me? Honestly I am at a lost at what to do atm.


----------



## Doug2507

I gather you've checked playback device settings? (not meaning to insult!)


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> I gather you've checked playback device settings? (not meaning to insult!)


Yes I have. The problem is that it is not detecting it for me to even set it as the default device.


----------



## Doug2507

Only suggestions i can give is to re-install management engine etc as you would normally after bios update and check with another set of ear plugs etc. Seem's like an odd one!


----------



## SMiThaYe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Oh yeah that's sexy, looks better than mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey when you removed the factory heatsink what did your express chipset look like? I noticed mine looked like someone used a hot glue gun on it, lol
> Did yours look like this?


This what mine looked like, apparently the same as yours and doesn't look like its going anywhere anytime


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Installed... I'll get started on bending some acrylic connectors tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1950.jpg.html


Hey you have install the screws and the springs wrong !
First the screws and then the springs and over it the screws with the shiny head.
You have not enough pressure on the CPU.

Sorry, for the bad english !


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hey you have install the screws and the springs wrong !
> First the screws and then the springs and over it the screws with the shiny head.
> You have not enough pressure on the CPU.
> 
> Sorry, for the bad english !


Good spot!!


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> i was able to flash back to 403 with usb stick both flashed back for me there's a lot to be said for if it ain't broke don't fix it!!!!


Thanks...good to know!...... in the heat of the battle I just switched to the secondary bios & flashed it back to 0403

ROCK Solid again!!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hey you have install the screws and the springs wrong !
> First the screws and then the springs and over it the screws with the shiny head.
> You have not enough pressure on the CPU.
> 
> Sorry, for the bad english !


I haven't officially "installed" the CPU block, because I haven't inserted the chip yet. I just slapped the block on for visual placement, and didn't want to misplace the springs on my workstation... But thanks for the heads up.


----------



## broken pixel

Sometimes I just want to punch Raja in the throat, what an ASUS A$$hat.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Sometimes I just want to punch Raja in the throat, what an ASUS A$$hat.


Pretty sure either 1) he's completely unsupervised and feel's he's god's gift to humanity. Also enjoys taunting people / provoking them so he can give them his supposedly " free vacations " lol. I've seen them quote people that outright flamed new users and agree w/ them, then when questioned on why he's supporting flaming and the insanity someone's badmouthing, he just responds by banning you.









Skupples was on there originally and asked a simple question about the board and some of the vets took serious offense at him asking about their supposed release date and what it actually was and went to town on him, so the mod's came out supporting the flame storm, after which he went along w/ it for a quick ban lol. I called the Mod's out on it and got flamed for picking on them and the mod responded to me stating that they have no job to perform, and if Asus was to regulate what they're allowed to say they wouldn't work there, which pretty much backs this point up lol.

or 2) Asus pay's him to be this way so people don't question or give feedback, as in anyone that has to question something obviously has no idea what they're doing.

Either way he's not very bright. And Asus forums is a great place for him to be at home w/ that disability.


----------



## gdubc

I haven't been back there really since that incident with skupps.


----------



## NEOAethyr

Can someone check for me a 3 pin fan on the cpu fan header to see if and when it spins up during post?

When my cpu died and when I was still trying to figure out what was going on my x60's pump wasn't working.
I was stuck in a boot loop and couldn't complete post.
I checked the pump manually with a 3pin to ide adapter to dc 12v adapter so I know my pump is good.
After reading a thread on the rog forums I suspect my pump wasn't running the whole time I had the setup running, kinda seemed like it...
rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?43080-No-q-fan-control-for-cpu_opt-R4BE&country=&status=

I suspect that 3 pin fans/pumps don't work on the cpu header at all, or at least not durimg the early stages of post.

When I do get mine back up I'm pluging mine straight into the psu just to be safe.
I obviously should of done so to begin with...

I just have a odd fealing about it.
I can remember checking when the system was running and not being able to tell if the pump was going or not.
The same during that boot loop I got stuck on.
When I tested it the other day I could defenitely tell it was working...
Hence why I suspect it.

This is the exact boot loop I got stuck with, this ism't my video, plus this dude's board is the rive...





What happened:
I modded the 403 bios with mmtool, replacing the rst raid rom witu the latest.
Seemed to work fine, rom posted, windows booted.
10-20 secs after booting windows the system reset it's self, got stuck with code 00.
Reset the cmos and that's how I got that boot loop.

1st mod I tried maybe 2-3 before was with a diff ami tool, I forget the name off hand.
Disabled the boot logo by default, and set opt fans 2-3 to the lowest duty cycle.
That worked, but cpu multi was stuck at default.
So I flashed back to the unmodded rom.
I suspect something simular happened when I used mmtool to replace the raid rom.

Anyways ^^ just wondering if someone could check the cpu fan thing for me







.

Note to self, backup passwords and such to phone incase of emergancies lol.

Oh and btw, it's good practice to backup cmos profiles to a usb stick...
I did that but I forgot about it and formatted it after all that mess :\.
The cmos profiles are stored on the bios chip it's self btw.
If you switch chips and sometime later switch back you'll notice that.
Long ago they used to store them on a seperate 64k chip, but now it's all on the same rom chip.


----------



## USFORCES

I'm going to have to add some anti-freeze to my loop soon otherwise it's going to freeze up again, it's suppose to get down to -32C tonight


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I'm going to have to add some anti-freeze to my loop soon otherwise it's going to freeze up again, it's suppose to get down to -32C tonight


Have you ever actually used anywhere near 64GB ?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> So this counts right ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> me running my own shop and all.


Grats! And welcome! Looking forward to your scores









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Have you ever actually used anywhere near 64GB ?


I know I'm getting there w/ mine lol.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats! And welcome! Looking forward to your scores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I'm getting there w/ mine lol.


Lol thanks. Looking forward to trying it out.

How have you used nearly 64GB ram i have 24 and short of a memory drain problem it doesn't happen


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Lol thanks. Looking forward to trying it out.
> 
> How have you used nearly 64GB ram i have 24 and short of a memory drain problem it doesn't happen


Virtual Machines.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats! And welcome! Looking forward to your scores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I'm getting there w/ mine lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Lol thanks. Looking forward to trying it out.
> 
> How have you used nearly 64GB ram i have 24 and short of a memory drain problem it doesn't happen


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Virtual Machines.


Pretty much this and Chrome, I tend to have 3 browsers open w/ about 100+ tabs consisting of

References for drawing
IT updates and security threats
Forums
Gaming sites and other areas
Emails
Web sites I work on

VM's consist of

Malware analysis and reverse engineering
sandboxing
Test servers and proof-of-concepts
Other games where I want more than 1 account on as I hate having to log off to switch characters easier to just control both.

Windows wise

Games, multitasking ,

Adobe light room and Photoshop cs6 for both editing and drawing (10k + canvas size ) (multiple images open at a time)
Maya / 3DS for rendering and other lessons as I'm getting more into 3D design and animation.

I came from 24gb and was using around 75% on average, so I knew 32gb would only put me around 50%

I am curious however if running @ 1333 9-9-9-24 vs 11-11-11-28 would make any noticeable difference in gaming.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Lol thanks. Looking forward to trying it out.
> 
> How have you used nearly 64GB ram i have 24 and short of a memory drain problem it doesn't happen


61351mb is what's not being used, lol It shows only 7% is being utilized in the screen shot above. I plan on using quite a bit for ramdisk when I get around to it. Most my slower loading programs Photoshop, Microsoft word and a couple games BF3 ect. will be on ramdisk, It will be future proof









Here I fixed it for you and loaded BF3, it's almost at 6gb.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 61351mb is what's not being used, lol It shows only 7% is being utilized in the screen shot above. I plan on using quite a bit for ramdisk when I get around to it. Most my slower loading programs Photoshop, Microsoft word and a couple games BF3 ect. will be on ramdisk, It will be future proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I fixed it for you and loaded BF3, it's almost at 6gb.


Haha Ramdisk is the only reason i thought of going for the full amount. But is it really quicker then my 1TB SSD ?


----------



## LCRava

Just to be thorough I am getting the CPU replaced. There is no physical damage to the pins but I reckon that there is a possibility that the CPU is faulty. It would be a first though (I never had a faulty CPU...). I have always been under the impression that if you had a bad CPU the system wouldn't even boot.







Any of you guys had a bad CPU before?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Haha Ramdisk is the only reason i thought of going for the full amount. But is it really quicker then my 1TB SSD ?


I think its like 10x the speed or somewhere near it, a few people posted their benchmark results earlier on using it.

I also have the Samsung 1TB Evo SSD loving it to death. I may test RamDisk as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Just to be thorough I am getting the CPU replaced. There is no physical damage to the pins but I reckon that there is a possibility that the CPU is faulty. It would be a first though (I never had a faulty CPU...). I have always been under the impression that if you had a bad CPU the system wouldn't even boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any of you guys had a bad CPU before?


Board would not turn on if that was the case, though power would be applied to the fans and a few lights nothing else.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Just to be thorough I am getting the CPU replaced. There is no physical damage to the pins but I reckon that there is a possibility that the CPU is faulty. It would be a first though (I never had a faulty CPU...). I have always been under the impression that if you had a bad CPU the system wouldn't even boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any of you guys had a bad CPU before?


What are the symptoms ?


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> What are the symptoms ?


I had random shutdowns/reboots with pretty much 2 boards (the third one was working flawlessly). The last one started with a faulty BIOS chip and after switching BIOS and exiting Memtest would light up but not turn on with code "00"


----------



## LCRava

@ LunaP

Is what I figured as well, but since I replaced everything else I figured I would replace the CPU to be thorough.

Obviously the douches at the ROG forums (you know who you are







) keep trying to shift blame on the RAM and/or the CPU, even though both are on their QVL.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> @ LunaP
> 
> Is what I figured as well, but since I replaced everything else I figured I would replace the CPU to be thorough.
> 
> *Obviously the douches at the ROG forums (you know who you are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )* keep trying to shift blame on the RAM and/or the CPU, even though both are on their QVL.


We're all more than aware of them lol.

As for the board the only thing I can think of otherwise in the meantime is verifying the "reset" jumper position, as well as any incorrectly set dip switches on the board. Then attempt to push the "start" button on the board to see if it loads into bios, trying w/ JUST the CPU in the board and nothing else. I'm pretty sure you've verified the PSU is good and not set to 220 or anything odd either.

Other than that hope it works out for you, I will admit these boards are brittle, I had 1 RAM holder tab snap off like a weak twig when removing one and afraid to touch the others.


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> We're all more than aware of them lol.
> 
> As for the board the only thing I can think of otherwise in the meantime is verifying the "reset" jumper position, as well as any incorrectly set dip switches on the board. Then attempt to push the "start" button on the board to see if it loads into bios, trying w/ JUST the CPU in the board and nothing else. I'm pretty sure you've verified the PSU is good and not set to 220 or anything odd either.
> 
> Other than that hope it works out for you, I will admit these boards are brittle, I had 1 RAM holder tab snap off like a weak twig when removing one and afraid to touch the others.


I've been doing builds for over 10 years now and this has most certainly been the most troublesome. I don't give up easily though.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Haha Ramdisk is the only reason i thought of going for the full amount. But is it really quicker then my 1TB SSD ?


I've been playing with ramdisk and no it's not that much faster than the 840 pro I'm using, some stuff you can tell loads a little faster.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Haha Ramdisk is the only reason i thought of going for the full amount. But is it really quicker then my 1TB SSD ?


512K 6000
4K 680
4KQD32 1161

I wonder. Is it faster than your HD... ~_^.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I am curious however if running @ 1333 9-9-9-24 vs 11-11-11-28 would make any noticeable difference in gaming.


How did it went with G.Skll? Did they replace your 2x32 GB kits with 1x64 GB?

I would try 1600 at CL11, or CL9 first. (And try 9-9-9-27, it's less aggressive timing.)


----------



## A7xConnor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*


£320 for a 4930k? How can I buy one :V

[Edit] Found your site, didn't show up in Google search, unless I missed it being on my phone.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> How did it went with G.Skll? Did they replace your 2x32 GB kits with 1x64 GB?
> 
> I would try 1600 at CL11, or CL9 first. (And try 9-9-9-27, it's less aggressive timing.)


Why lol ? I'm running it @ 2133 @ 11-11-11-28 lol, been stable since yesterday under heavy loads for a long time. Still up and running. I doubt the timings would affect much I'm just curious if 2133 vs 1333 makes a difference at all in gaming especially CPU intensive ones.

As for my kits, I still have the 32gb x 2 G.Skill has been ignoring me since last week.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm just curious if 2133 vs 1333 makes a difference at all in gaming especially CPU intensive ones.


It depends on the game, and how many GPUs you use, too.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It depends on the game, and how many GPUs you use, too.


3 Titans which I'm still in the process of finding my best OC w/ without breaching my 1200W until Corsair releases their 1500W


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 3 Titans which I'm still in the process of finding my best OC w/ without breaching my 1200W until Corsair releases their 1500W


Why not get a Lepa G 1600 watts thats cheaper then the AX1500i

450$ thats a ripoff

If you want to wait for a PSU wait for the Lepa P 1700 watts thats single rail and even that will be cheaper then 450$


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why not get a Lepa G 1600 watts thats cheaper then the AX1500i
> 
> 450$ thats a ripoff
> 
> If you want to wait for a PSU wait for the Lepa P 1700 watts thats single rail and even that will be cheaper then 450$


I asked you about the Lepa 1700 in the other thread and you said you didn't know, the 1700 IS the 1600W just overseas its called the 1700, just we don't have 220V in the US, I asked them about it since noone else could answer.

The Lepa is multi rail = I'm not running double cables throughout my system + you bashed that as well in the previous thread. I don't care about the cost as long as it does its just, and if its Titanium then that's pretty good for what its worth, especially @ that high @ single rail.

eVGA is releasing another 1500W as well , noone knows if its based on the Flower design or not, but since its releasing at the same time as Corsair and since I already have custom cables why not just stick to it and I like have 1 PSU vs 2 in my case anyways.

Pretty sure it won't be that much cheaper, being that high rated, and depending on HOW it's rated, I still have to wait for reviews.


----------



## shilka

Thats the second time someone talks about the EVGA 1500 watts

Still have not seen or heard anything about that

Too bad the Enermax Platimax 1500 watts has so crappy voltage regulation a flaw the NEX1500 also has

Said that the EVGA NEX750G was the worst i have seen well not anymore


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 3 Titans which I'm still in the process of finding my best OC w/ without breaching my 1200W until Corsair releases their 1500W


Well, will there be a difference? Yes. How much? I can't give you a number without actually testing myself and I don't have such cards.









I can say that I noticed a difference with just two GTX670's, even on stock CPU, and just enabling XMP. I see much smoother framerate output (just something I seem to be overly sensitive to), while some things are clearly faster when more CPU-focused. .


----------



## yttocstfarc

Man guys some of these problems you are having are making me skiddish about getting this motherboard. I really want it I just don't know if I wanna deal with some of the problems you guys are having. Personally I have a problem dumping 3k into a system that isn't gonna semi work right off the bat. I love the looks of this board and I really wanted that x2 x16 slots....


----------



## skupples

It's pretty well par for the course when it comes to early adoption. I think the jury is still out on Rava's actually root issue.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's pretty well par for the course when it comes to early adoption. I think the jury is still out on Rava's actually root issue.


My problem is there aren't many choices for what I want to do its either the Black Edition or a Z87 WS, and i hate that gold color scheme. Or step down and get the Maximus VI Extreme and sacrifice the x2 x16. I wonder truly how much performance difference there will be between x2 x16 and x2 x8?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> My problem is there aren't many choices for what I want to do its either the Black Edition or a Z87 WS, and i hate that gold color scheme. Or step down and get the Maximus VI Extreme and sacrifice the x2 x16. I wonder truly how much performance difference there will be between x2 x16 and x2 x8?


Not enough to matter, and VI Extreme has PLX chip. My memory testing rig uses that board, and sits next to the RIVBE rig. I still much prefer the RIVBE.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Not enough to matter, and VI Extreme has PLX chip. My memory testing rig uses that board, and sits next to the RIVBE rig. I still much prefer the RIVBE.


Hrmmmmm. Like I was telling skupps. With my luck ill order this board and it'll be a board from hell. and ill be that guy sending it back and forth with asus.....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Man guys some of these problems you are having are making me skiddish about getting this motherboard. I really want it I just don't know if I wanna deal with some of the problems you guys are having. Personally I have a problem dumping 3k into a system that isn't gonna semi work right off the bat. I love the looks of this board and I really wanted that x2 x16 slots....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Hrmmmmm. Like I was telling skupps. With my luck ill order this board and it'll be a board from hell. and ill be that guy sending it back and forth with asus.....


You face this issue with any hardware you buy, its not selective to just one lol. Don't forget to factor in user error on many of the accounts.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> You face this issue with any hardware you buy, its not selective to just one lol. Don't forget to factor in user error on many of the accounts.


True not saying just the Black Edition. Ive just been reading this forum since it was started and truthfully back on the previous BE one also. It just seems there is alot of issues with overclocking, things breaking, rma etc. I will say this I am new to this level of computer building, But I have built other systems before and have never had any problems like this. It just kinda making me really hesitant about biting off more than i can chew i guess....lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> My problem is there aren't many choices for what I want to do its either the Black Edition or a Z87 WS, and i hate that gold color scheme. Or step down and get the Maximus VI Extreme and sacrifice the x2 x16. I wonder truly how much performance difference there will be between x2 x16 and x2 x8?


next to zero, unless you are pushing extreme resolutions like 7680x1440+ or multiple 4k monitors. It's something like 1% on canned benchmarks, most of the time comes within the margin of error. You could always go with a board that sports a PLX chip, though not the same. similar.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> next to zero, unless you are pushing extreme resolutions like 7680x1440+ or multiple 4k monitors. It's something like 1% on canned benchmarks, most of the time comes within the margin of error. You could always go with a board that sports a PLX chip, though not the same. similar.


hmmm........im gonna have to do some more research guys...lol


----------



## navynuke499

Im hoping that since im only running 16GB of 2400 ram, I can avoid a lot of these issues you guys are having. It seems like most of the issues ive read about lately are with trying to run 32GB or more ram.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> Im hoping that since im only running 16GB of 2400 ram, I can avoid a lot of these issues you guys are having. It seems like most of the issues ive read about lately are with trying to run 32GB or more ram.


Yes that´s right, i have "only" 16 GB of memory and more performance as any 32 or 64GB configuration with less problem and issues.








No one can use 32 or 64GB, why to have it with less performance ?


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Other than that hope it works out for you, I will admit these boards are brittle, I had 1 RAM holder tab snap off like a weak twig when removing one and afraid to touch the others.


Had that myself as well so you're not the only one!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Sometimes I just want to punch Raja in the throat, what an ASUS A$$hat.


have to ask what happened
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 61351mb is what's not being used, lol It shows only 7% is being utilized in the screen shot above. I plan on using quite a bit for ramdisk when I get around to it. Most my slower loading programs Photoshop, Microsoft word and a couple games BF3 ect. will be on ramdisk, It will be future proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I fixed it for you and loaded BF3, it's almost at 6gb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha Ramdisk is the only reason i thought of going for the full amount. But is it really quicker then my 1TB SSD ?
Click to expand...

Yes if it is done right
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why not get a Lepa G 1600 watts thats cheaper then the AX1500i
> 
> 450$ thats a ripoff
> 
> If you want to wait for a PSU wait for the Lepa P 1700 watts thats single rail and even that will be cheaper then 450$
> 
> 
> 
> I asked you about the Lepa 1700 in the other thread and you said you didn't know, the 1700 IS the 1600W just overseas its called the 1700, just we don't have 220V in the US, I asked them about it since noone else could answer.
> 
> The Lepa is multi rail = I'm not running double cables throughout my system + you bashed that as well in the previous thread. I don't care about the cost as long as it does its just, and if its Titanium then that's pretty good for what its worth, especially @ that high @ single rail.
> 
> eVGA is releasing another 1500W as well , noone knows if its based on the Flower design or not, but since its releasing at the same time as Corsair and since I already have custom cables why not just stick to it and I like have 1 PSU vs 2 in my case anyways.
> 
> Pretty sure it won't be that much cheaper, being that high rated, and depending on HOW it's rated, I still have to wait for reviews.
Click to expand...

you do have 220 and it does work in the US. I can link you the power cables I have tomorrow


----------



## Andrull

Have anybody had any problems with "unstable" multiplier?

Trying to push the CPU good (4930K), and I have set the Max turbo (on all cores) to 50 inn BIOS. Aka. Multiplier 50x.
The CPU does handle it, but the system seems to be unstable on low load/IDLE. :S

And I found out that the CPU is raising the MP to 51x and 51.5x (I have seen it as high as 52x right before the PC is crashing (I'm guessing a 4930K running at 5,2 GHz is probably bound to be unstable).
It's pretty irritating, since it makes 3Dmark crach at the loadingscreen between the individual tests.

Any ideeas? :S


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> ... I will admit these boards are brittle, I had 1 RAM holder tab snap off like a weak twig when removing one and afraid to touch the others.


I haven't done that but I've gotten a stick jammed in there trying to remove it.
Gotta remove the vga card 1st...

The slots are better then they used to be, I used to have the chiv-f and those were a pain with anything other then 8 layer pcbs.
Constently had to re-insert my sticks on random back in the day because they would lose contact.
I don't know how many layers my 2400c9 trident-x's are but np's so far other then getting then stuck in there lol. (remove the video card and that's not an issue).

Anyways I got a email this morning, oddly enough around 2am, cpu is on it's way via 2day air







.
I wish I hadn't formatted my usb stick, I had forgotten that my 24/7 stable cmos profile was backed up on it..
Ohwell, shouldn't be a huge deal.
I flashed both bios chips to stock to be safe before I rma'ed my cpu so I defenitely don't have any copies of my cmos lying around.
I guess I might as well step up to 0507 now, maybe the 3rd timings can be adjusted now.. ^^, on 0403 they do nothing.


----------



## A7xConnor

Just bought a 4930k from Lucid Dream Computers to go with this board ^^


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you do have 220 and it does work in the US. I can link you the power cables I have tomorrow


Without modifying your home's electrical ports?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I haven't done that but I've gotten a stick jammed in there trying to remove it.
> Gotta remove the vga card 1st...
> 
> The slots are better then they used to be, I used to have the chiv-f and those were a pain with anything other then 8 layer pcbs.
> Constently had to re-insert my sticks on random back in the day because they would lose contact.
> I don't know how many layers my 2400c9 trident-x's are but np's so far other then getting then stuck in there lol. (remove the video card and that's not an issue).
> 
> Anyways I got a email this morning, oddly enough around 2am, cpu is on it's way via 2day air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I wish I hadn't formatted my usb stick, I had forgotten that my 24/7 stable cmos profile was backed up on it..
> Ohwell, shouldn't be a huge deal.
> I flashed both bios chips to stock to be safe before I rma'ed my cpu so I defenitely don't have any copies of my cmos lying around.
> I guess I might as well step up to 0507 now, maybe the 3rd timings can be adjusted now.. ^^, on 0403 they do nothing.


This was w/o having a GPU in at all... They're just brittle on mine.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A7xConnor*
> 
> Just bought a 4930k from Lucid Dream Computers to go with this board ^^


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Why lol ? I'm running it @ 2133 @ 11-11-11-28 lol, been stable since yesterday under heavy loads for a long time. Still up and running. I doubt the timings would affect much I'm just curious if 2133 vs 1333 makes a difference at all in gaming especially CPU intensive ones.


I though you didn't solve it yet. So going down by one notch worked as always does.
Quote:


> As for my kits, I still have the 32gb x 2 G.Skill has been ignoring me since last week.


Asus and NEC are ignoring me for 3 weeks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> My problem is there aren't many choices for what I want to do its either the Black Edition or a Z87 WS, and i hate that gold color scheme. Or step down and get the Maximus VI Extreme and sacrifice the x2 x16. I wonder truly how much performance difference there will be between x2 x16 and x2 x8?


I like that gold and black scheme.

You can get WS-E with two PLX chips and have 6x PCI-E 3.0 16x. It's even cheaper than RIVE BE.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Had that myself as well so you're not the only one!


With this board? That's strange, Asus boards were rather rigid, and I had never this issue with RAM socket.


----------



## Doug2507

Yep, initially was a bit disappointed and rma crossed my mind but it doesn't have any real world effect on the running of things so i'll just let it slide.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

When running benchmarks on overvolted/overclocked Titans. The motherboard activates an anti surge protection that shuts down the PC. It requires me to lower volts and clocks. Any way around that?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> When running benchmarks on overvolted/overclocked Titans. The motherboard activates an anti surge protection that shuts down the PC. It requires me to lower volts and clocks. Any way around that?


I believe the bios has an OCP switch some where that can be disabled.


----------



## LunaP

Wouldn't Dual PSU's get around that since the Voltage would be on a sep device? Or no?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> When running benchmarks on overvolted/overclocked Titans. The motherboard activates an anti surge protection that shuts down the PC. It requires me to lower volts and clocks. Any way around that?


Anti-surge option in BIOS on monitor tab, perhaps.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> When running benchmarks on overvolted/overclocked Titans. The motherboard activates an anti surge protection that shuts down the PC. It requires me to lower volts and clocks. Any way around that?


That's strange. I was running both my classy's at 1.5v each in sli with no problems. I wonder if I shut that setting off without even realizing it. How many volts were you using.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wouldn't Dual PSU's get around that since the Voltage would be on a sep device? Or no?


It will still be getting the same amount of Power.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I believe the bios has an OCP switch some where that can be disabled.


I couldn't find anything related to it on the bios. Time to read the manual lol


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> That's strange. I was running both my classy's at 1.5v each in sli with no problems. I wonder if I shut that setting off without even realizing it. How many volts were you using.


1.425v per card. 1400mhz. Shuts off and I get a PSU Voltage protection on the POST screen.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Time to read the manual lol


Very first option, monitor tab. That is all there is. Could be a dip in readings causing the issue, and you could turn of the monitor for that rail, although I'd hesitate to do that.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Very first option, monitor tab. That is all there is.


Thanks. I'll check that out in a bit.


----------



## LunaP

Alright popped the RAM timings down to 10-11-11-28 for now, gonna shoot for 9-10-10-28 later and see how that fairs.

Everything is around 1.05 in bios except for VTT which is around 1.22 so far everythings still stable as a rock! OC'ing GPU's now hoping I don't go overboard.

spent an hour at the store debating between the G19S and the G710+

Kinda wanted the G19S for the screen...but was unsure about the keys....

Ended up grabbing the G710+ testing it for now feels kind of compact but digging the keys kinda. It's Cherry Browns I believe. May or may not return it depending on how the break in goes. 860i's were out of stock just the standard 860's I believe were there which SHOULD take the same cables If I'm not mistaken.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't Dual PSU's get around that since the Voltage would be on a sep device? Or no?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Alright popped the RAM timings down to 10-11-11-28 for now, gonna shoot for 9-10-10-28 later and see how that fairs.
> 
> Everything is around 1.05 in bios except for VTT which is around 1.22 so far everythings still stable as a rock! OC'ing GPU's now hoping I don't go overboard.
> 
> spent an hour at the store debating between the G19S and the G710+
> 
> Kinda wanted the G19S for the screen...but was unsure about the keys....
> 
> Ended up grabbing the G710+ testing it for now feels kind of compact but digging the keys kinda. It's Cherry Browns I believe. May or may not return it depending on how the break in goes. 860i's were out of stock just the standard 860's I believe were there which SHOULD take the same cables If I'm not mistaken.


Just get a mini-screen.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> After removing my system and putting it back together, my onboard sound no longer detects my headset. I can play sound and hear them through my monitors no problem. However, it does not detect my headset through the 3.5mm jacks at all or through my front panel. Do you guys think the bios update changed something for me? Honestly I am at a lost at what to do atm.


It headset can not be detected to enable as default device. Any suggestions on how to fix this 3.5mm audio jacks? Plugging in a USB headset works fine, just having issues with the 3.5mm jacks on the rear and front panel.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I like that gold and black scheme.
> 
> You can get WS-E with two PLX chips and have 6x PCI-E 3.0 16x. It's even cheaper than RIVE BE.
> With this board?


Gold and Black isn't my favorite. I was actually mad when asus went away from blue to the gold.
I saw that WS-E board, its another one that i've been looking at. I actually love the blue color. For me its either blue or all black ( hence wanting the BE)

To be honest LGA 2011 is kinda scaring me with the problems people have been having. I will admit I am new to the socket but I really don't want to have to deal with alot of problems to get a good overclock. I don't mind spending the time to get it, as I spent the time with my current rig. I just don't wanna spend 3k on a rig to be dealing with problems for the next 3 months...lol


----------



## V1C10U5

I have recently fired up my board with a 4930k in it and was wondering if I needed to manually set voltages like one did with Asus boards of old.
I remember earlier auto setting on Asus boards hid some high voltages you wouldn't want to run 24/7.

All I have set is X.M.P, changed BLK to 133 and set core voltage to 1.35 to get a speed of 4.65Ghz, oh, and changed the 2 voltages under the core
voltage to 1.2 but I can't remember what they are called off the top of my head.

Would anyone recommend manually setting any others for safer clock?

Thank you.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you do have 220 and it does work in the US. I can link you the power cables I have tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> Without modifying your home's electrical ports?
Click to expand...

you have to run a new circuit but no other mods needed, ( you can use the normal 115v plug, but you cant sell your house like that, it is not up to code ) your dryer and stove ( if you have elect. units ) run on 220
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200192

that is the cord i have waiting till spring to run new circuits i need 2 but i may just pull up enough for all my main pcs and run some cat6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't Dual PSU's get around that since the Voltage would be on a sep device? Or no?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Alright popped the RAM timings down to 10-11-11-28 for now, gonna shoot for 9-10-10-28 later and see how that fairs.
> 
> Everything is around 1.05 in bios except for VTT which is around 1.22 so far everythings still stable as a rock! OC'ing GPU's now hoping I don't go overboard.
> 
> spent an hour at the store debating between the G19S and the G710+
> 
> Kinda wanted the G19S for the screen...but was unsure about the keys....
> 
> Ended up grabbing the G710+ testing it for now feels kind of compact but digging the keys kinda. It's Cherry Browns I believe. May or may not return it depending on how the break in goes. 860i's were out of stock just the standard 860's I believe were there which SHOULD take the same cables If I'm not mistaken.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just get a mini-screen.
Click to expand...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121106592717?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121004607232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Gold and Black isn't my favorite. I was actually mad when asus went away from blue to the gold.
> I saw that WS-E board, its another one that i've been looking at. I actually love the blue color. For me its either blue or all black ( hence wanting the BE)
> 
> To be honest LGA 2011 is kinda scaring me with the problems people have been having. I will admit I am new to the socket but I really don't want to have to deal with alot of problems to get a good overclock. I don't mind spending the time to get it, as I spent the time with my current rig. I just don't wanna spend 3k on a rig to be dealing with problems for the next 3 months...lol


I have never done a overclock that it did not take me 2 to 3 months to get everything right and 100% stable. always some little tweaks or decide to go higher. I have been see your concerns and post in this thread and I am not trying to be rude but if you want something that has no bugs and works perfect out of the box then dont buy the latest tech.. even the z87 boards are still being fine turned.. this is all part of the process. You also have to realize if you overclock and have no problems you are not so fast to post but if you are having problems then you are going to post for sure. something else on these threads you never know someones experience level or what they know. i read a lot of them and they seem like a lot of user error to me. not so much here but the forum threads in general...


----------



## Mega Man

wuuuuuuuuuut ? no it is never user error #( h220 thread anyone ?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have never done a overclock that it did not take me 2 to 3 months to get everything right and 100% stable. always some little tweaks or decide to go higher. I have been see your concerns and post in this thread and I am not trying to be rude but if you want something that has no bugs and works perfect out of the box then dont buy the latest tech.. even the z87 boards are still being fine turned.. this is all part of the process. You also have to realize if you overclock and have no problems you are not so fast to post but if you are having problems then you are going to post for sure. something else on these threads you never know someones experience level or what they know. i read a lot of them and they seem like a lot of user error to me. not so much here but the forum threads in general...


I totally agree. My overclock on my Ivy Bridge took a good 3 months to settle in on a good overclock. Im mainly talking about this catastrophic stuff. RMA multiple motherboards, ram slots breaking, not even stable at stock speeds, etc. Im only gonna be able to do this kind of build once for the next couple of years I just want it to go smoothly as possible. Sorry for cluttering up the forum with my rants.


----------



## erayser

I think you are focused more on those that have problems, and had a bit of bad luck. I'm sure most don't have issues with the RIV BE. My board has been working great, and pretty solid. Probably that's why don't post much in this thread. Why??? because it's working. I'm probably not the only one that doesn't need to post that my board is working fine everyday.









Look at all the club members on the first post... and very few regulars that post here. The rest are those that have issues and have questions.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just get a mini-screen.


what happened to the computer online shop you're working in, seems no longer accessible from OCN fourm. Just about to place an order.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Hey guys just an FYI Microcenter has 4930k for $499.99!

http://www.microcenter.com/product/418179/Core_i7-4930K_34_GHz_LGA_2011_Boxed_Processor


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I think you are focused more on those that have problems, and had a bit of bad luck. I'm sure most don't have issues with the RIV BE. My board has been working great, and pretty solid. Probably that's why don't post much in this thread. Why??? because it's working. I'm probably not the only one that doesn't need to post that my board is working fine everyday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at all the club members on the first post... and very few regulars that post here. The rest are those that have issues and have questions.


I'm jealous!!! You built the rig I want minus all the watercooling, and add my Case! Absolutely Beautiful Brother!


----------



## Elvandar

Proud new member of the club if you would add me please!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elvandar*
> 
> Proud new member of the club if you would add me please!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> what happened to the computer online shop you're working in, seems no longer accessible from OCN fourm. Just about to place an order.


Welcome! Looking good!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> what happened to the computer online shop you're working in, seems no longer accessible from OCN fourm. Just about to place an order.


PM'd.

I requested a removal of the company name from my account.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just get a mini-screen.


Anything you recommend?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *you have to run a new circuit but no other mods needed*, ( you can use the normal 115v plug, *but you cant sell your house like that,* it is not up to code ) your dryer and stove ( if you have elect. units ) run on 220
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200192
> 
> that is the cord i have waiting till spring to run new circuits i need 2 but i may just pull up enough for all my main pcs and run some cat6
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121106592717?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121004607232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


I'll pass then LOL, thanks for the links though I'll check em out. *Edit* Anything more advanced or is this as far up the chain the mini's go? Would love to have one w/ more visuals and a background ( yes luxury but it fits the bill )









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elvandar*
> 
> Proud new member of the club if you would add me please!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Grats and welcome! 780's or Titans?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Welcome! Looking good!
> PM'd.
> 
> I requested a removal of the company name from my account.


I'm curious on this too now lol.


----------



## gdubc

Me too. I was lookin at the 780 classifieds they had at a good price...


----------



## A7xConnor

Well I already paid for something so I'm probably screwed :I


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A7xConnor*
> 
> Well I already paid for something so I'm probably screwed :I


Its nothing to worry about we will be back on here soon. I'm sending all the products out.


----------



## Elvandar

I used Titans in my system. I had a question for everyone else that does... If you run 2, 3, or 4 Titans in your system, does every Titan past the 1st one not seat all the way in to the point where the PCI-E lock "clicks" in to lock the card in place? I noticed the end of my TItans actually make contact with the SATA ports and doesn't allow for it to go all the way quite in but it doesn't seem to affect anything.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elvandar*
> 
> I used Titans in my system. I had a question for everyone else that does... If you run 2, 3, or 4 Titans in your system, does every Titan past the 1st one not seat all the way in to the point where the PCI-E lock "clicks" in to lock the card in place? I noticed the end of my TItans actually make contact with the SATA ports and doesn't allow for it to go all the way quite in but it doesn't seem to affect anything.


Odd I have 3 titans in mine and no issue there w/ them being over the SATA ports they're clicked in.


----------



## Elvandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Odd I have 3 titans in mine and no issue there w/ them being over the SATA ports they're clicked in.


Alright, that's interesting. The only other thing I kinda wish I could fix in my system is the color-scheme disaster I have going on with the red PCIE cables from the EVGA power supply and the brown colors on the Noctua fans that everyone seems to disagree with :/


----------



## Seallone

Any one know how to turn of the red logo in the middle of the board. I could fo it with my asus max p67. ?

thanks seal


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seallone*
> 
> Any one know how to turn of the red logo in the middle of the board. I could fo it with my asus max p67. ?
> 
> thanks seal


It's under advanced tab in BIOS, under ROG EFFECTs, labelled as ROG Pulse. The other option is for the audio LEDs.


----------



## navynuke499

anyone using the on board wireless? mine seems to be super slow.


----------



## Doug2507

Not much different from my M6E tbh, maybe a bar down at times. That's just the joy of wireless though! Getting an AP for the rig should help...


----------



## navynuke499

the signal is fine, but the speed is terrible


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> anyone using the on board wireless? mine seems to be super slow.


Re-install driver. I was getting 150kb max at first, something was fixed after, get 5 MB/s no problem, games fine, and at the limit of my router's range (1 bar (15%)only).


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Re-install driver. I was getting 150kb max at first, something was fixed after, get 5 MB/s no problem, games fine, and at the limit of my router's range (1 bar (15%)only).


I concur i still get 15 - 18MBs with it .


----------



## navynuke499

i did a speed test on it, both the on board and my other adapter are running at the same speed on the test, yet when i use the on board i lag like hell in BF3. not sure what is causing the issue.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> i did a speed test on it, both the on board and my other adapter are running at the same speed on the test, yet when i use the on board i lag like hell in BF3. not sure what is causing the issue.


Other adapter?

LuLz.

Perhaps some sort of conflict there. Unless you mean the Intel Ethernet.


----------



## navynuke499

no, i tried another usb wireless adapter and they both perform the same. 25ms ping, 33 down, 4.3 up, but the on board lags like hell in games.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Anything you recommend?
> I'll pass then LOL, thanks for the links though I'll check em out. *Edit* Anything more advanced or is this as far up the chain the mini's go? Would love to have one w/ more visuals and a background ( yes luxury but it fits the bill )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grats and welcome! 780's or Titans?
> I'm curious on this too now lol.


I think most of them are around the level of quality. I have also seen people that use a literal mini-monitor, run it as an accessory, with some sort of custom built OSD on it. The only problem with that is it would replace your current surround accessory, as i'm almost positive you can only run one accessory while surround is enabled.


----------



## kpoeticg

Skupples man, your avatar is too damn funny


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Skupples man, your avatar is too damn funny












you know, the entity has done allot of good through their actions over the years, but I just couldn't resist using this avatar.


----------



## kpoeticg

LOL, i definitely don't dispute that. I <3 The N$4









I noticed when you changed your avatar, just never actually watched the scene til today and it made me LMAO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just get a mini-screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Anything you recommend?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *you have to run a new circuit but no other mods needed*, ( you can use the normal 115v plug, *but you cant sell your house like that,* it is not up to code ) your dryer and stove ( if you have elect. units ) run on 220
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200192
> 
> that is the cord i have waiting till spring to run new circuits i need 2 but i may just pull up enough for all my main pcs and run some cat6
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121106592717?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121004607232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'll pass then LOL, thanks for the links though I'll check em out. *Edit* Anything more advanced or is this as far up the chain the mini's go? Would love to have one w/ more visuals and a background ( yes luxury but it fits the bill )
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Anything you recommend?
> I'll pass then LOL, thanks for the links though I'll check em out. *Edit* Anything more advanced or is this as far up the chain the mini's go? Would love to have one w/ more visuals and a background ( yes luxury but it fits the bill )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grats and welcome! 780's or Titans?
> I'm curious on this too now lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think most of them are around the level of quality. I have also seen people that use a literal mini-monitor, run it as an accessory, with some sort of custom built OSD on it. The only problem with that is it would replace your current surround accessory, as i'm almost positive you can only run one accessory while surround is enabled.
Click to expand...

what about a usb video card ?

a small monitor maybe i just saw one for like 60 ish a few weeks ago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elvandar*
> 
> Proud new member of the club if you would add me please!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


welcome !!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elvandar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Odd I have 3 titans in mine and no issue there w/ them being over the SATA ports they're clicked in.
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, that's interesting. The only other thing I kinda wish I could fix in my system is the color-scheme disaster I have going on with the red PCIE cables from the EVGA power supply and the brown colors on the Noctua fans that everyone seems to disagree with :/
Click to expand...

is it possible you have different sized standoffs, i have seen that before ( for the mobo )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> anyone using the on board wireless? mine seems to be super slow.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Re-install driver. I was getting 150kb max at first, something was fixed after, get 5 MB/s no problem, games fine, and at the limit of my router's range (1 bar (15%)only).
> 
> 
> 
> I concur i still get 15 - 18Mbs with it .
Click to expand...

i get usually 30-50mbps i cant blame the adapter, comcast speed is not super reliable in terms of always being there but it is @30+ always, i average 50up 11 down


i always have to install their ac pcie driver for some reason but it works after that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Skupples man, your avatar is too damn funny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you know, the entity has done allot of good through their actions over the years, but I just couldn't resist using this avatar.
Click to expand...

wont even go into Guy Fawkes! i love that mask. DISOBEY !


----------



## Seallone

ROG pUlse don't turn off, The audio light turns off, Dam. thanks anyway. Bug ?


----------



## Mega Man

just unplug the wire right next to the block that lights up

i got an idea that i likes !~

but i cant edit for crap ! can anyone / will anyone make a avatar for me ( basic fade one pic out and fade another in ) or even better walk me through how to ( show me the sites to learn from.


----------



## kpoeticg

Has anybody here had any issues with "b2" and the VGA LED lit up?

I finally was able to power on my system today and can't post. Complete black screen on my monitor.

Powercolor 290x, G Skill Trident X Quad Channel 2400 CL10, 4930k

I've tried reseating the cpu, removed dimms, moved my GPU between 1, 2, & 3 a bunch of times....

edit: also short beep


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> The batch I got is a B and it seems to OC really well on water. Actually it's 70 in my computer room, case has a cold air intake from outside I've been doing it like this for a few years now, -31.11C tomorrow time for some serious overclocking.


----------



## asfgbdnf




----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> fastest CPU ever:thumb:


not bad for 1.28 volts


----------



## navynuke499

anyone running ram over 2400 on this? ive got my trident x 2400 running at 2666. not sure if its safe to keep it there on these cpus.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quick Help from anyone. Do i need to have both the 8pin and 4pin power connection connected. As my psu only has 2 8pin connection


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Quick Help from anyone. Do i need to have both the 8pin and 4pin power connection connected. As my psu only has 2 8pin connection


No you do not need to have the 4 pin connected.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> anyone running ram over 2400 on this? ive got my trident x 2400 running at 2666. not sure if its safe to keep it there on these cpus.


Nice job! How many sticks/capacity?


----------



## navynuke499

nope, just use the 8 pin


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Nice job! How many sticks/capacity?


its 4 sticks, 2 8GB sets


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> anyone running ram over 2400 on this? ive got my trident x 2400 running at 2666. not sure if its safe to keep it there on these cpus.


Perfectly safe, BE is designed to run ram well over 3000mhz!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> No you do not need to have the 4 pin connected.


From HiViz, it is recommend for smoother power feed to cpu.


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Perfectly safe, BE is designed to run ram well over 3000mhz!


im more worried about the memory controller on the cpu than the board it self. not sure what kind of effect long term high ram frequencies have on these chips.


----------



## Doug2507

Frequency is fine, it's voltage that kills them.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Quick Help from anyone. Do i need to have both the 8pin and 4pin power connection connected. As my psu only has 2 8pin connection


It's recommended for both cleaner power and to help from overloading on 1. The molex at the top though is mainly in case you're using more than 2 GPU's
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i get usually 30-50mbps i cant blame the adapter, comcast speed is not super reliable in terms of always being there but it is @30+ always, i average 50up 11 down


oh god no lol I meant MB no Mb lol On speed test I get about 122-140 depending on the server. Highest I've gotten so far is about 156Mbs on speed tests lol, I just meant on actual real downloads. 15-18 Megabytes as opposed to Megabits








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> anyone running ram over 2400 on this? ive got my trident x 2400 running at 2666. not sure if its safe to keep it there on these cpus.


How many GB Of RAM are you using? If 32 or less then you shouldn't have to worry as it won't really stress out the IMC as much. 64gb on the other hand then yeah that might be stretching it. What's your VTT / VCSAA and Dram Voltage Set to?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> im more worried about the memory controller on the cpu than the board it self. not sure what kind of effect long term high ram frequencies have on these chips.


Yeah but still cleaner power improves stability vs overloading 1 port.


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What's your VTT / VCSAA and Dram Voltage Set to?:


everything is set at stock. only thing i changed was cpu multi, base clock and cpu voltage, ram speed went to 2666 thanks to the 125 base clock. still on stock 1.65 volts.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> everything is set at stock. only thing i changed was cpu multi, base clock and cpu voltage, ram speed went to 2666 thanks to the 125 base clock. still on stock 1.65 volts.


Might want to verify what the settings pulled, as they won't always be spot on, I do notice that 0504 lowered the amount that Auto does so it gets better results. I would go into the bios and though it's set to Auto it will show what it's grabbed from the Auto Settings. You can use that as a baseline and tweak further if you like, I did that with mine, and slowly getting better and better results daily.

Managed nearly 1.2v on 4.5ghz so gonna see what I hit 5ghz using, hoping to possibly hit it @ 1.25-1.275


----------



## Dreamxtreme

So I woke up this morning. Got a bunch of 4930k's delivered and a RIVE BE. Picked out 1 just 1 and this is what happened.

http://valid.canardpc.com/wwl5yg

I think its a keeper


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Might want to verify what the settings pulled, as they won't always be spot on, I do notice that 0504 lowered the amount that Auto does so it gets better results. I would go into the bios and though it's set to Auto it will show what it's grabbed from the Auto Settings. You can use that as a baseline and tweak further if you like, I did that with mine, and slowly getting better and better results daily.
> 
> Managed nearly 1.2v on 4.5ghz so gonna see what I hit 5ghz using, hoping to possibly hit it @ 1.25-1.275


Good luck on that one.









run stock with offset, +0.005V, to see stock VID at load. Load up CPU to see full load VID. Set that manually for CPU voltage, tweak from there, multi up to highest, watching power consumption. at last multi, CPU will need big boost for next multi, 0.05V or so, usually. both good and bad CPUs, nearly all intel chips, seem to do this. Add a bit of VTT here at this point for some added stability, maybe look at the ratios between al votlages at that point, and then increase all votlages, and use BCLK, to get higher.







I like to use OFFSET voltage mode, not manual, for long-term. Use manual to find your voltages, sure, but realize that you may still need to tweak after moving to offset, too.

Do the same with VCCSA, find max memory multi. if 2133 or 2400 require a boost, then 2666(2133x125) is kinda pointless.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*


Congrats!!! See if you can push 5 @ 1.25-1.275


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*


47 is the magic multi, I'm afraid. Not at the voltage, but what 47 requires is what's important, IMHO, when looking to 5 GHz.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 47 is the magic multi, I'm afraid. Not at the voltage, but what 47 requires is what's important, IMHO, when looking to 5 GHz.


I'm thinking of going for 4.6-4.7 and calling it quits for 24/7 honestly, unless you think 4.5 is good enough for most. I just wanna get the most out of this thing till Skylake, or possibly 1 release afterwards.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 47 is the magic multi, I'm afraid. Not at the voltage, but what 47 requires is what's important, IMHO, when looking to 5 GHz.


http://valid.canardpc.com/94hbpq


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/94hbpq


Oh jeez rofl that much huh?


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Oh jeez rofl that much huh?


I know right. I did try 1.2 and 1.250 with it but this is all it could do. with my jumping in .5 stages


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> I know right. I did try 1.2 and 1.250 with it but this is all it could do. with my jumping in .5 stages


Try 1.28 then 1.275 if the first works







I followed cada's and started at the highest and kept going down, still haven't had issues yet but I'm pretty sure I'm close to some.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Try 1.28 then 1.275 if the first works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I followed cada's and started at the highest and kept going down, still haven't had issues yet but I'm pretty sure I'm close to some.


But 1.250 just BSOD'


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> But 1.250 just BSOD'


I still stay test it lol. 1.285 if you're worried or 1.29 and go down by .05


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I still stay test it lol. 1.285 if you're worried or 1.29 and go down by .05


O i see what you meant lol sorry not much sleep with a bundle of shiny goodness arriving 1st thing


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I still stay test it lol. 1.285 if you're worried or 1.29 and go down by .05












Meh. that's a good air chip, excellent air chip(4.5 @ 1.2V is nice, nice!), and that's it. If ya want 5 GHz, then move to the next chip. already pushed 1.3V...chip is now abused. I knew it would be like that, anyway. Just two multis...completely different outlook.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

http://valid.canardpc.com/3glhzv


----------



## Dreamxtreme

BTW can anyone tell me where one of my 3TB HDDs has gone. Bios reads it fine but not windows


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> BTW can anyone tell me where one of my 3TB HDDs has gone. Bios reads it fine but not windows


go in to drive manager and assign it a drive letter.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> go in to drive manager and assign it a drive letter.


It aint there and its not in device manager. It all looks fine in the bios. Although to add it is the hotswap drive

Fixed it . Need sleep


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> From HiViz, it is recommend for smoother power feed to cpu.


I completely agree. However, it is not necessary. According to the User Manual you can use just the 4 pin...







lol


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I completely agree. However, it is not necessary. According to the User Manual you can use just the 4 pin...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


You're supposed to use the 8-pin too?


----------



## erayser

The way I read in the manual, it said use the 4 pin "OR" 8 pin... it didn't say to use both (and/or), so I selected the 8 pin. I can't put the 4 pin in now... since I bent my acrylic tubing to only access the 8 pin. Oh well... seems to be working fine with just the 8 pin power. I might have to redo my acrylic tubing that goes over the CPU cable connection when I do my 6 month maintenance.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> The way I read in the manual, it said use the 4 pin "OR" 8 pin... it didn't say to use both (and/or), so I selected the 8 pin. I can't put the 4 pin in now... since I bent my acrylic tubing to only access the 8 pin. Oh well... seems to be working fine with just the 8 pin power. I might have to redo my acrylic tubing that goes over the CPU cable connection when I do my 6 month maintenance.


Yes, you are correct. That is how I understood it too. I am only using the 8 pin as well and not had any issues so far.


----------



## skupples

the extra 4 pin is just for extra power in extreme OC instances.


----------



## Errorist66

Hi everyone,

Got my new build all up and running! Rampage IV black with an I7-4930K. Trying to push the CPU while keeping the memory at 2400MHz!

http://valid.canardpc.com/6tsupa

I asked the same question on the ASUS forum and I was told that both connector plugged is best.


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Got my new build all up and running! Rampage IV black with an I7-4930K. Trying to push the CPU while keeping the memory at 2400MHz!
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/8z5uhp
> 
> I asked the same question on the ASUS forum and I was told that both connector plugged is best.


wow its taking 1.4v for 4.5GHz? i hope that was just to start and thats not a final setting.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Quick Help from anyone. Do i need to have both the 8pin and 4pin power connection connected. As my psu only has 2 8pin connection


1 should be a 4+4 pin ( they come apart usually )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> oh god no lol I meant MB no Mb lol On speed test I get about 122-140 depending on the server. Highest I've gotten so far is about 156Mbs on speed tests lol, I just meant on actual real downloads. 15-18 Megabytes as opposed to Megabits


that has way too many factors !


----------



## JLMS2010

I'm currently at 1.34v for 4.6GHz. I'm really hoping to get that down some! I have seem to hit somewhat of a wall at 4.6GHz


----------



## Errorist66

just starting. now running prime95 at 4.6. First max out the multiplier then lower the voltage for the working clock. Just improvising...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> just starting. now running prime95 at 4.6. First max out the multiplier then lower the voltage for the working clock. Just improvising...


By chance are you using the built in profile? If so then yeah that's probably why its @ 1.4 you should be safe to drop to 1.35 for starters and move down. I'm still trying to figure out how to run prime95 properly, I start the tests and all and stress tests or w/e its called but it just sits there, so not sure if its doing anything or not.

Just dropped voltage down to 1.23 and still stable. Going for 1.215 next. Gonna attempt 2400 again on RAM later.


----------



## Jpmboy

*Question:*

If I have 3 card SLI and I want to run, say single and 2card SLI (for example for benching) when I use the PCIE lane switch to disable 1 or 2 cards: 1) do I need to disconnect the PCIE power cables to the cards in the OFF lane(s), 2) will the ON slot(s) operate at the normal Gen3 speed (16x8x16), and do you just leave the SLI bridge in place even with one or two cards\lanes OFF?


----------



## LunaP

Gonna probably drop down to 1866 @ 9-10-10-28 and see how that goes speed wise. VTT was up to 1.25 as well as VCAA 1.05 @ 1866 though.


----------



## USFORCES

For you guys monitoring your temps, there are 3 extra temp sensors on this board. I'm using two for the memory right and left bank and the third for case temp, I got the probes for $2.95ea. at performance-pcs.com
You could use the probes to monitor other things but anyhow they work good.


----------



## Elvandar

Anyone have issues with the bluetooth working if you guys even use that? It's detected in windows, but I've tried connecting 2 devices to it unsuccessfully: bose minilink speakers and my windows phone. The speakers aren't detected at all no matter how much I try, and the phone gets detected very rarely, but when it did, I got it to connect for about 2 minutes before it disconnected after the drivers were being installed for it. I disabled onboard wireless adapter (ac adapter, not BT), re-enabled it, reinstalled wireless bluetooth driver from the CD, and nothing seemed to work.

Any ideas?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elvandar*
> 
> Anyone have issues with the bluetooth working if you guys even use that? It's detected in windows, but I've tried connecting 2 devices to it unsuccessfully: bose minilink speakers and my windows phone. The speakers aren't detected at all no matter how much I try, and the phone gets detected very rarely, but when it did, I got it to connect for about 2 minutes before it disconnected after the drivers were being installed for it. I disabled onboard wireless adapter (ac adapter, not BT), re-enabled it, reinstalled wireless bluetooth driver from the CD, and nothing seemed to work.
> 
> Any ideas?


I can test mine in a bit when my phone comes back on from charging.

Also Asus wireless isn't to shabby.


----------



## Mega Man

my bluetooth works fine


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> *Question:*
> 
> If I have 3 card SLI and I want to run, say single and 2card SLI (for example for benching) when I use the PCIE lane switch to disable 1 or 2 cards: 1) do I need to disconnect the PCIE power cables to the cards in the OFF lane(s), 2) will the ON slot(s) operate at the normal Gen3 speed (16x8x16), and do you just leave the SLI bridge in place even with one or two cards\lanes OFF?


iv'e been trying to figure this out as well, so that I can drop down to dual-sli+surround for those random games that hate the third card. Haven't spent any real time testing it, just contemplating how it would be done. Hopefully some one can give a proper answer.


----------



## NEOAethyr

I got my new cpu, running good







.

Here's my bios collection so far, I believe I'm missing one.
http://www73.zippyshare.com/v/83839827/file.html

If you flash the modded one check your voltages before booting your os, make sure they are set right.
If so post back and say all is ok with it.


----------



## Ftimster

Been working on lowering my vcore let's just say I'm happy......


----------



## szeged

started getting random bsods when playing one particular game. the bccode isnt relevant to anything that would cause an oc failure. I re ran prime95 for 6 hours, IBT and cinebench and all that and the cpu is still chuggin along at 5.0 no worries at all. wonder what it is.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> started getting random bsods when playing one particular game. the bccode isnt relevant to anything that would cause an oc failure. I re ran prime95 for 6 hours, IBT and cinebench and all that and the cpu is still chuggin along at 5.0 no worries at all. wonder what it is.


what code? 3b? 00A?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> 
> Been working on lowering my vcore let's just say I'm happy......


you might want to try the snip tool or "print screen".


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> iv'e been trying to figure this out as well, so that I can drop down to dual-sli+surround for those random games that hate the third card. Haven't spent any real time testing it, just contemplating how it would be done. Hopefully some one can give a proper answer.


Yeah - before I break the seal on this EK bridge I need to know this. Otherwise I'll go with koolance 1-slot adjustable SLI so I can pull cards as needed. Will be tri sli: 2 780 Ti Classys and one 780 kingpin (slot #1). Some serious 4K benching/games

*Any Asus reps scan this thread*?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah - before I break the seal on this EK bridge I need to know this. Otherwise I'll go with koolance 1-slot adjustable SLI so I can pull cards as needed. Will be tri sli: 2 780 Ti Classys and one 780 kingpin (slot #1). Some serious 4K benching/games
> 
> 
> 
> Any Asus reps scan this thread?


I've not seen any ASUS presence here on the owner's club nor the RIVBE announcement threads. If you need something from an ASUS affiliate you'll probably want to visit the ROG forum. Tell them Skupples sent you. lol, no, best not do that.


----------



## skupples




----------



## MUSAB

is my rampage 4 BE and my 4930k good i have it at 4.408mhz 1880 memory 1.360v on cpuz but on bios 1.340v i got it to go 4.6 with 1.4v on the bios but i think the temp start going to near 70c with 4.4 mhz on 1.360v the highest core hits 61c.


----------



## MUSAB

i dont want to go to insane 4.7 or 4.8 because i know you have to go to 1.4 or over yes some maybe the lucky 5% can get 4.4with 1.25v some even under is it worth it to use all the extra power just to go from 4.26 on my 4930k with 1.28v to 4.4 1.34v. on the bios that is and is 1.340 = 1.360 on cpuz safe 24/7.


----------



## Jpmboy

two posts from the Ivy-E thread. I see alot of fix OC and strapping. Unless you're benchmarking, try a simple offset OC (x100)...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/640#post_21674279
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YP5 Toronto*
> 
> ^^^^^^
> that is tasty.
> Can you provide your settings? I have yet to attempt offset OC.


I like offset for every day use since the chip idles at 0.854V in the above example. Only adds vcore on demand. Each chip is different, but the basics are:
reset bios, post
set your boot priorities
set your ram timings and VDram
sleep states disabled
cpu and pcie spreadspectrum disabled (change nothing else)
Now increase multiplier until it will post but fails to load windows - this is your base for adding offset and turbo mV (will be like 43-45x for Ivy-E, SB-E and Sandy)

all cores, 43-45 (or higher)
Turbo Auto -> Enabled (you should see "additional Turbo Voltage as a menu option). Some folks leave this on Auto, but then you loose control of the vcore ceiling
CPU LLC -> High (or medium depending on multiplier)
Manual mode OC
Vcore to "Offset" and set +5 to +10mV (+0.005V)
Set Add Turbo to +10-20mV
post (but don't boot to windows yet)
Write down all the applied voltages (vtt and vsa also)
Boot to windows. If it fails, keep adding turbo until it boots to Win.
Run your preferred stability "regimen" add mV as needed to reach your stability needs.

easy -









Get stable by adding offset and/or turbo mV (vsa and vtt too)


----------



## Doug2507

With regards to SLI just flip the switch.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MUSAB*
> 
> is my rampage 4 BE and my 4930k good i have it at 4.408mhz 1880 memory 1.360v on cpuz but on bios 1.340v i got it to go 4.6 with 1.4v on the bios but i think the temp start going to near 70c with 4.4 mhz on 1.360v the highest core hits 61c.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MUSAB*
> 
> i dont want to go to insane 4.7 or 4.8 because i know you have to go to 1.4 or over yes some maybe the lucky 5% can get 4.4with 1.25v some even under is it worth it to use all the extra power just to go from 4.26 on my 4930k with 1.28v to 4.4 1.34v. on the bios that is and is 1.340 = 1.360 on cpuz safe 24/7.


I don't consider my 4930k a good chip... basing it off results others post in here. Maybe I focus to much on all the good results because I'm jelly... but I think mine is average. I'm stable at 4.5MHz at 1.267 manual settings (1.25v in bios). Like you, I prefer not to go over 1.4 for my everyday setup, so the highest I can go stable is 4.7MHz at 1.376v (1.36 or 1.37 in bios)... but I'm fine with 4.5MHz as my everyday setup for now. I am currently using offset voltage for 4.5MHz... full load at 1.28v, and drops to 0.864v at 1.2MHz idle. I may drop it down more for my everyday setup since I don't see any difference at 4.3MHz for gaming and my daily use. As for temps, at my current settings... idle is around 24 - 27c's, and full load +- 60c.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

I'm Trying 4.9/5ghz but i kept getting Driver IRQ no less or equal. So came back to 4.8 it was fine and also the bios keeps either freezing or just crashing to blank screen. 4.8 at 1.335 is fine for me.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Very lovely chip ! You hit the Jackpot


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Very lovely chip ! You hit the Jackpot


Thanks 

Got one small problem every time i download with uplay and lots of downloading at high speed the Ethernet connection freezes up and the only thing i can do to fix is reboot. Any idea why the connection wont just reset when i click it. It also stops windows shutting down leaving a cold reset Ive tried reinstalling drivers for them but doesn't work.

The connection for the Ethernet port seems a bit flimsy as well


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got one small problem every time i download with uplay and lots of downloading at high speed the Ethernet connection freezes up and the only thing i can do to fix is reboot. Any idea why the connection wont just reset when i click it. It also stops windows shutting down leaving a cold reset Ive tried reinstalling drivers for them but doesn't work.
> 
> The connection for the Ethernet port seems a bit flimsy as well


LAN problems are CPU-related, likely VCCSA. I get that with my "good" chip as well, LAN port is not connected and I have to remove/re-add via device manager on every cold boot into OS. Change to other chip, it's connected every time. IVB-E is a weird chip, man. Good chip, 4.5 GHz @ 1.25V, 130-140W pulled via 8-pin. Bad chip, 4.2 GHz @ 1.2 V, 150-160W via 8-pin.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> LAN problems are CPU-related, likely VCCSA. I get that with my "good" chip as well, LAN port is not connected and I have to remove/re-add via device manager on every cold boot into OS. Change to other chip, it's connected every time. IVB-E is a weird chip, man. Good chip, 4.5 GHz @ 1.25V, 130-140W pulled via 8-pin. Bad chip, 4.2 GHz @ 1.2 V, 150-160W via 8-pin.


Bios issue ? or am i just not giving it enough voltage


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Bios issue ? or am i just not giving it enough voltage


Dunno, all I know is that it changes when I change chips. Chips are from same batch. Working on the poor chip now, actually, since it doesn't like more than 4.2, but I like to keep vccsa and vtt @ stock. Maybe it needs VTT, etc, dunno, taking my time doing hardcore stability test with each change, but it's the bad chip with higher VCCSA that has no problems with LAN, and they both clock ram similarily so far, at least, on air. Anyway, the chip that loses LAN, has 0.900V stock VCCSA, the one that has no problem has 0.935V.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Dunno, all I know is that it changes when I change chips. Chips are from same batch. Working on the poor chip now, actually, since it doesn't like more than 4.2, but I like to keep vccsa and vtt @ stock. Maybe it needs VTT, etc, dunno, taking my time doing hardcore stability test with each change, but it's the bad chip with higher VCCSA that has no problems with LAN, and they both clock ram similarily so far, at least, on air. Anyway, the chip that loses LAN, has 0.900V stock VCCSA, the one that has no problem has 0.935V.


Hrm alright. i'll see what mine is.

Theres a big jump in Volts my 1.335 goes to 1.351 when going. I need to have a good look in the manual on each option really


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got one small problem every time i download with uplay and lots of downloading at high speed the Ethernet connection freezes up and the only thing i can do to fix is reboot. Any idea why the connection wont just reset when i click it. It also stops windows shutting down leaving a cold reset Ive tried reinstalling drivers for them but doesn't work.
> 
> The connection for the Ethernet port seems a bit flimsy as well


I haven't had any probs like that.
But my i/o backplate was made were cable connector doesn't click in, I can just pull it right out.
I just gotta make sure it's plugged in all the way, but never had any real probs with it.

;;;;;;

My old 4930k that I killed by accident, 3326B667.
Did 1.2ghz stock voltage (one step below actually in offset mode, -0.005v I think).
Could not get 100% stable at 110mhz bclk.

My new 4930k, 3332B054.
Does 4.4ghz stable at the same voltages.
Does 110mhz bclk stable (well 2.5hrs batman tested..., last cpu did 1.45hrs before crashing).
Tested at 4.4ghz:

mafia 2 4hrs stable
fc3 1hr stable
batman 2hrs stable
codbo stable
codmw2 stable
sr4 stable

Old cpu I think barely booted 112mhz bclk.
New cpu boots 114mhz bclk.
Didn't try booting windows with that, but it does boot into windows at 113mhz, but not stable (probably never going to be but who knows, didn't mess with anything else).

Ok when I mentioned the 3rd timings before and I couldn't adjust them, I meant the ones after those...
You can change them to anything and they don't do a thing (the values for them do not change on reboot).

Mem ratios..., in a nut shell.
100mhz bclk, 2400mhz ram, slow.
2133mhz, fast... (faster then 2400 at the same timings)

110mhz bclk, 2600+mhz slow.
2400'ish fast.

Lower ratio's are somewhat faster.
There is no timing in the bios that is (at least adjustable) that can compensate for that speed difference.
The difference is about 20,000 megs per sec in mem bandwith...

I haven't tried the 0507 bios yet though to see if that makes any difference.

Those are my findings so far.
Right now I personally think the board isn't worth clocking yet.
Not when the performance is way lower at overclock then it is with my 24/7 setup (4.4ghz, 2.4ghz mem, even though the mem is slow as dog ***** at least it works).

Also when you use straps, you lose the ability to idle your cpu.
Just a heads up.

Some of my old notes that may be of some help I don't know...
Vccsa freq needs to be maxed out to 600khz in order to use higher cpu multipliers at 110mhz bclk, 2646mhz mem
Vccsa needs to be 110%
Cstates should be set to auto... (enabling all of these causes major probs for some odd reason at these speeds)

I haven't double checked these with my new cpu yet...
I probably used them when testing 110mhz bclk though.
I found my cmos backups on my hard drive...

Edit:
Oh forgot to mention.
I tested a fan on the cpu fan header, spun up slow and never really maxed out.
It's no wonder I could never tell that my pump was on or not when hooked up to it.
I have to double check the bios settings on that to see if it was set to max or not like it should of been.
But I'm not even going using it anymore anyways.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I haven't had any probs like that.
> But my i/o backplate was made were cable connector doesn't click in, I can just pull it right out.
> I just gotta make sure it's plugged in all the way, but never had any real probs with it.
> 
> ;;;;;;
> 
> My old 4930k that I killed by accident, 3326B667.
> Did 1.2ghz stock voltage (one step below actually in offset mode, -0.005v I think).
> Could not get 100% stable at 110mhz bclk.
> 
> My new 4930k, 3332B054.
> Does 4.4ghz stable at the same voltages.
> Does 110mhz bclk stable (well 2.5hrs batman tested..., last cpu did 1.45hrs before crashing).
> Tested at 4.4ghz:
> 
> mafia 2 4hrs stable
> fc3 1hr stable
> batman 2hrs stable
> codbo stable
> codmw2 stable
> sr4 stable
> 
> Old cpu I think barely booted 112mhz bclk.
> New cpu boots 114mhz bclk.
> Didn't try booting windows with that, but it does boot into windows at 113mhz, but not stable (probably never going to be but who knows, didn't mess with anything else).
> 
> Ok when I mentioned the 3rd timings before and I couldn't adjust them, I meant the ones after those...
> You can change them to anything and they don't do a thing (the values for them do not change on reboot).
> 
> Mem ratios..., in a nut shell.
> 100mhz bclk, 2400mhz ram, slow.
> 2133mhz, fast... (faster then 2400 at the same timings)
> 
> 110mhz bclk, 2600+mhz slow.
> 2400'ish fast.
> 
> Lower ratio's are somewhat faster.
> There is no timing in the bios that is (at least adjustable) that can compensate for that speed difference.
> The difference is about 20,000 megs per sec in mem bandwith...
> 
> I haven't tried the 0507 bios yet though to see if that makes any difference.
> 
> Those are my findings so far.
> Right now I personally think the board isn't worth clocking yet.
> Not when the performance is way lower at overclock then it is with my 24/7 setup (4.4ghz, 2.4ghz mem, even though the mem is slow as dog ***** at least it works).
> 
> Also when you use straps, you lose the ability to idle your cpu.
> Just a heads up.
> 
> Some of my old notes that may be of some help I don't know...
> Vccsa freq needs to be maxed out to 600khz in order to use higher cpu multipliers at 110mhz bclk, 2646mhz mem
> Vccsa needs to be 110%
> Cstates should be set to auto... (enabling all of these causes major probs for some odd reason at these speeds)
> 
> I haven't double checked these with my new cpu yet...
> I probably used them when testing 110mhz bclk though.
> I found my cmos backups on my hard drive...
> 
> Edit:
> Oh forgot to mention.
> I tested a fan on the cpu fan header, spun up slow and never really maxed out.
> It's no wonder I could never tell that my pump was on or not when hooked up to it.
> I have to double check the bios settings on that to see if it was set to max or not like it should of been.
> But I'm not even going using it anymore anyways.


Ah good. Im trying to find the reason I can't get a stable 4.9/5 yet get 4.8 under 1.335. So far havent got any BCLK overclock. My ram is rubbish corsair vengeancge which wont go past 1900mhz but AFAIK XMP normally imples its 1300mhz normal 1600mhz OC. Im on 0507 hardly any difference.

Thanks for the help

Edit. Thats what im talking about when i say the ethernet is flimsy it just doesnt clip in. I think a few are like that

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Dunno, all I know is that it changes when I change chips. Chips are from same batch. Working on the poor chip now, actually, since it doesn't like more than 4.2, but I like to keep vccsa and vtt @ stock. Maybe it needs VTT, etc, dunno, taking my time doing hardcore stability test with each change, but it's the bad chip with higher VCCSA that has no problems with LAN, and they both clock ram similarily so far, at least, on air. Anyway, the chip that loses LAN, has 0.900V stock VCCSA, the one that has no problem has 0.935V.


Yep that did it! little increase in the VCCSA and its dead stable. Also cured the problem of it taking ages to start in the 1st place.

Edit. Just doubled checked and its actually causing delays to other starup programs starting. Any Ideas?? Was at .905 now at .950


----------



## NEOAethyr

Higher bclk's enable higher mem clocks.
I don't think there is any possible way of getting 2600+ with 100mhz bclk.
However it also makes cpu clocking harder it seems like to me.

In theory with a higher pci-e clock on the like, tied to bclk, should allow for a slightly better cpu clock in some form, like in extreme situations perhaps like ln2 or by luck.
But from what I've seen, it stresses the mem controller.
It has to though to get 2600mhz + on the mem, because I'm pretty sure that div just doesn't work or doesn't actually exist (2600 on 100mhz bclk).

I've never went much past 1.25v on either vccsa or those vtt voltages.
On my 24/7 config, I use stock voltages for everything except the ram, which I set at 1.65v on the get go.
All those voltages are manually set to stock.

On my 110mhz bclk cmos profile that I have saved I have alot of voltages on auto, just a handful on manual.
I actually used what I had to use for 125mhz strap for the 110mhz settings, plus the extra's (old notes) as I put in my previous post.

When switching from the 110mhz bclk to my 24/7 config of 100mhz bclk, I had to do something otherwise it won't post.
I forgot what it was now though, I just load my cmos profile to get back now.

Seen some mention of the stock vid and it being the actual value of what hwinfo32 calls vccin.
Mine is 0.656v at it's lowest, for my 24/7 4.4ghz.

Ah ok just doing some reading of some of my old posts ona diff forum and I mentioned my max bclk on my old cpu.
"As for higher bclk's, I can't seem to figure out how to get it to post 114mhz yet."
"I can post 113, but not 114."

I think think it was 114mhz I needed to enable slow mode to post, unless it was 113, for sure my new cpu has no probs posting 114mhz interestingly enough.








I also came across an old post when I was trying to get 125mhz strap to post originally, I'm starting to wonder if it was the bios mod at all that killed my cpu.
Or if it was an iffy imc that gave out (That doesn't explain the slight dark spot on the cpu backside though...).
The intel rma dude told me not to push the imc...
I may of tried to hard to get 110mhz stable back then when it obviously was having a hard time doing it.
Then it just gave out on me when I was messing with bios flashing and not overclocking.
Who knows, but I see someone else mention a dead cpu in the ivb-e thread here, sounded kinda like the same boot loop I got when mine died.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Lol thanks. Looking forward to trying it out.
> 
> How have you used nearly 64GB ram i have 24 and short of a memory drain problem it doesn't happen


.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Virtual Machines.


Adding RAM Disk. -)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Any Ideas?? Was at .905 now at .950


Try a bit of VTT, or a bit more VCCSA. VTT additions are more flexible, but too much VCCSA seems to cause instability...maybe due to heat build-up or something.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> ~snip~


To you ,sir, I say:



BCLK is not 100% every thing you want you can get. You need to adjust skews when pushing over 105 MHz, or about 5%, from any of the given dividers. So, 95-105, 119-132, 156-174, etc, etc. 166 is the exception, you can push much higher with that BCLK, board is well tuned for that, fi your CPU is capable.

Max memory divider you can boot is 2400 MHz. to get 2600, you boot 125x2133 divider, then scale BCLK down from 125 MHz to hit 2600, or just go for 2666, like shown in the screenshot above.

I posted some BIOS settings too, although they aren't going to work well unless you got a good chip, and the same ram. And that's another thing...ram plays a big role.

Every option in BIOS works for me, tried all timings, etc...if it doesn't work for you, I'd suggest setting everything to stock by loading optimized defaults, and then re-flashing the BIOS. When pushed a bit too hard memory-wise Intel MEI can corrupt, leads to stuff like this. I literally have a stack of board with similar issues(not just ASUS boards, or RIVBE boards) that can get screwed up this way, different things happen, like options not working, onboard devices getting permanently disabled, etc, etc, etc.

And too, bad boards can happen. Even boards that seem to work fine at stock, can suck compared to the next board.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Try a bit of VTT, or a bit more VCCSA. VTT additions are more flexible, but too much VCCSA seems to cause instability...maybe due to heat build-up or something.
> To you ,sir, I say:


hrm 1V is too much i think. I'll add some VTT


----------



## 6steven9

I just got some bluetooth headphones and tried hooking them up and they keep cutting out and crackling and don't work with some games, As well the sound seems out of sync. Is there an issue with bluetooth in either win 8.1 or this motherboard? They work fine with my phone and tablet..


----------



## Elvandar

i just posted a bluetooth issue also a couple pages back. my lumia 1520 windows phone syncs barely but disconnects frequently. my bose minilink speakers dont sync at all.


----------



## szeged

any ideas on why the ssd secure erase in the bios refuses to show any of my ssd's? i have it in ahci mode but still nothing.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> hrm 1V is too much i think. I'll add some VTT


You can go easily to 1,2V VTT and VCCSA no problems there, and no instability !


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> any ideas on why the ssd secure erase in the bios refuses to show any of my ssd's? i have it in ahci mode but still nothing.


ignore this i fixed it


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> With regards to SLI just flip the switch.


cool. thx!


----------



## adajamali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> *Question:*
> 
> If I have 3 card SLI and I want to run, say single and 2card SLI (for example for benching) when I use the PCIE lane switch to disable 1 or 2 cards: 1) do I need to disconnect the PCIE power cables to the cards in the OFF lane(s), 2) will the ON slot(s) operate at the normal Gen3 speed (16x8x16), and do you just leave the SLI bridge in place even with one or two cards\lanes OFF?


I tried that once with my R4E and dual sli to test one of my card for defects, all I did turned the pci-e switch off to second card and left the power cables hooked up to the card. The second card did get disabled how ever the 3 fans for 780 lightning were running at full rpm and the lightning logo was on. May be fan and logo lights were on cause of power connectors. For water cooling setup I would just simply turn off the pci-e switch.


----------



## reev3r

So, I have the R4BE, and unlike the rest of you, I have opted for the 4820K CPU... Which, in hindsight, seems to have been a terrible mistake. I really thought I would make no use of the extra 2 cores, but after running some benchmarks, and just general use, it feels, and benches much slower than the 3770K I 'upgraded' from. I was just curious if anybody has any input as to whether it would be a good idea to just sell the 4820K and suck it up and buy the 4930K, or just deal with it and sit on the current one. Just for reference, I have about 21TB of storage on a separate HTPC/server with an i3-3220 and 16GB of RAM, as well as (on my desktop with the 4820K and the R4BE) 2x250GB 840 Evo SSD's, 2xGTX 670 FTW GPU's, 1KW OCZ PSU, 2x27" LCD's, and 32GB-4x8GB Crucial ULP-DIMM's. I do a lot of gaming, as well as a lot of image editing in PS and Ligtroom among others...


----------



## cadaveca

4820 does basically = 3770K. Same core, with more ram bandwidth, and more PCIe. You do rally need the 6-core to see real benefits of the platform, IMHO. Was the same thing with the 3820 and 2700K.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> You can go easily to 1,2V VTT and VCCSA no problems there, and no instability !


Some chips will be sensitive to VCCSA in my experience. VTT, well, that's cache, so to speak, so of course it is fine...same as CPU core, silicon-wise. But I think System Agent is a bit different design in silicon, at least it is on the 1155/1150 CPUs.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> So, I have the R4BE, and unlike the rest of you, I have opted for the 4820K CPU... Which, in hindsight, seems to have been a terrible mistake. I really thought I would make no use of the extra 2 cores, but after running some benchmarks, and just general use, it feels, and benches much slower than the 3770K I 'upgraded' from. I was just curious if anybody has any input as to whether it would be a good idea to just sell the 4820K and suck it up and buy the 4930K, or just deal with it and sit on the current one. Just for reference, I have about 21TB of storage on a separate HTPC/server with an i3-3220 and 16GB of RAM, as well as (on my desktop with the 4820K and the R4BE) 2x250GB 840 Evo SSD's, 2xGTX 670 FTW GPU's, 1KW OCZ PSU, 2x27" LCD's, and 32GB-4x8GB Crucial ULP-DIMM's. I do a lot of gaming, as well as a lot of image editing in PS and Ligtroom among others...


I had a 3820 with my sabertooth and in benches it made a big difference when i went for a 4930k . I looked at my cpu compared to 3770k and it really is the same cpu. Didnt see much difference between my old 3570k and the 3820. Love my 4930k though


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> So, I have the R4BE, and unlike the rest of you, I have opted for the 4820K CPU... Which, in hindsight, seems to have been a terrible mistake. I really thought I would make no use of the extra 2 cores, but after running some benchmarks, and just general use, it feels, and benches much slower than the 3770K I 'upgraded' from. I was just curious if anybody has any input as to whether it would be a good idea to just sell the 4820K and suck it up and buy the 4930K, or just deal with it and sit on the current one. Just for reference, I have about 21TB of storage on a separate HTPC/server with an i3-3220 and 16GB of RAM, as well as (on my desktop with the 4820K and the R4BE) 2x250GB 840 Evo SSD's, 2xGTX 670 FTW GPU's, 1KW OCZ PSU, 2x27" LCD's, and 32GB-4x8GB Crucial ULP-DIMM's. I do a lot of gaming, as well as a lot of image editing in PS and Ligtroom among others...


Since you mentioned benches, sell the 4820k and get a 4930k and be happy.

You got the top end board, now get the top end cpu to go with it.


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Try a bit of VTT, or a bit more VCCSA. VTT additions are more flexible, but too much VCCSA seems to cause instability...maybe due to heat build-up or something.
> To you ,sir, I say:
> 
> 
> 
> BCLK is not 100% every thing you want you can get. You need to adjust skews when pushing over 105 MHz, or about 5%, from any of the given dividers. So, 95-105, 119-132, 156-174, etc, etc. 166 is the exception, you can push much higher with that BCLK, board is well tuned for that, fi your CPU is capable.
> 
> Max memory divider you can boot is 2400 MHz. to get 2600, you boot 125x2133 divider, then scale BCLK down from 125 MHz to hit 2600, or just go for 2666, like shown in the screenshot above.
> 
> I posted some BIOS settings too, although they aren't going to work well unless you got a good chip, and the same ram. And that's another thing...ram plays a big role.
> 
> Every option in BIOS works for me, tried all timings, etc...if it doesn't work for you, I'd suggest setting everything to stock by loading optimized defaults, and then re-flashing the BIOS. When pushed a bit too hard memory-wise Intel MEI can corrupt, leads to stuff like this. I literally have a stack of board with similar issues(not just ASUS boards, or RIVBE boards) that can get screwed up this way, different things happen, like options not working, onboard devices getting permanently disabled, etc, etc, etc.
> 
> And too, bad boards can happen. Even boards that seem to work fine at stock, can suck compared to the next board.


Well I'll be a monkey's uncle...
The timings work now







(the ones called latency timings towards the bottom).
That's one of the 1st things I tried though with this board, was mem timings.
It must of been a corrupt bios from the get go I think, but whatever now at least it's working.
Maybe now it'll be worth setting up at 2600mhz+ for mem...

I have no probs getting 2600+ stable, the mem scales quite well it seems.
I haven't tried higher but it can bench 9-11-11 cmd1 at those speeds no prob with higher voltages.
Does 2646mhz at 1.65v np (abeit 10-12-12, cmd1).

Learning how to tweak the dmi/pcie and bclk skews is something I could use.
I wanna overclock using the 100mhz strap, so the cpu can idle when it needs to.
110mhz is a go so far, but higher that is a prob...
I wish though that I wasn't forced to use the 125mhz strap on 125mhz, that would be the perfect speed to get to otherwise, 3000mhz mem... (125 x 24)

I got some sort of dual sidded samsung, scales up to 1.775v so far without probs, though I actively cooled it at those voltages just in case.
I've never had ddr3 that scaled so high in voltages without errors...

Anyways thanks for the heads up on potential bios corruption.
Maybe now I can get aida64's mem bench's to 65k across the board, instead of 65k'ish, 45k'ish, 65k'ish like it is now (it's slow on the writes unless I use a lower mem div).


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> Well I'll be a monkey's uncle...
> The timings work now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (the ones called latency timings towards the bottom).
> That's one of the 1st things I tried though with this board, was mem timings.
> It must of been a corrupt bios from the get go I think, but whatever now at least it's working.
> Maybe now it'll be worth setting up at 2600mhz+ for mem...
> 
> I have no probs getting 2600+ stable, the mem scales quite well it seems.
> I haven't tried higher but it can bench 9-11-11 cmd1 at those speeds no prob with higher voltages.
> Does 2646mhz at 1.65v np (abeit 10-12-12, cmd1).
> 
> Learning how to tweak the dmi/pcie and bclk skews is something I could use.
> *I wanna overclock using the 100mhz strap, so the cpu can idle when it needs to.*
> 110mhz is a go so far, but higher that is a prob...
> I wish though that I wasn't forced to use the 125mhz strap on 125mhz, that would be the perfect speed to get to otherwise, 3000mhz mem... (125 x 24)
> 
> I got some sort of dual sidded samsung, scales up to 1.775v so far without probs, though I actively cooled it at those voltages just in case.
> I've never had ddr3 that scaled so high in voltages without errors...
> 
> Anyways thanks for the heads up on potential bios corruption.
> Maybe now I can get aida64's mem bench's to 65k across the board, instead of 65k'ish, 45k'ish, 65k'ish like it is now (it's slow on the writes unless I use a lower mem div).


Just don't disable speedstep with a 125 strap. It will down clock. If you want it to down volt at idle with a 125 strap... well that's a different issue. AID64 memoy bench at 65K. I get >70K with 2666 11-11-13. And if read is 65K, with write at mid 40s, copy low 60s, your memory OC is unstable or borked.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> Maybe now I can get aida64's mem bench's to 65k across the board, instead of 65k'ish, 45k'ish, 65k'ish like it is now (it's slow on the writes unless I use a lower mem div).


You need to clear CMOS if it's doing that. You've swapped memory at some point? Or as mentioned, OC is not stable...but it is NOT always a stability thing.

Write performance drops with 8 GB DIMMs, or when swapping between the two. That almost seems to be a platform limitation rather than anything else, as I get that on other boards too. If you look at cache performance, you'll see that that's just kinda how the results are generated...with lower write performance.

That said, with 4 GB DIMMs, getting things working right is easy-like-pie:



Since L3 is tied to CPU speed, memory performance is related to CPU speed as well, and sometimes when pushing up CPU speed, VTT(cache) needs a boost as well, and low VTT can cause lower memory performance as well as VCCSA. That's why you need to test each separately...and I like to do memory first.


----------



## Jpmboy

for comparison:


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> for comparison:


You really need to edit that pic so that the numbers are legible. Damn you and your high-res monitor.









I get approximately the same numbers at 2133..there's a screenshot here in this thread somewhere, I think, or I posted it on TPU.







Drop your CPU speed down, and it'll drop a bit.

I like 9-11-10-27-1t twcl9 2133...these Dominator platinums do it easy with <1.5V.

2666 can be much faster than what I posted above :



It all depends on what you're after and how you tweak things. The low bandwidth is with my "poopy" chip, the above screenshot with my good chip.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You really need to edit that pic so that the numbers are legible. Damn you and your high-res monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get approximately the same numbers at 2133..there's a screenshot here in this thread somewhere, I think, or I posted it on TPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drop your CPU speed down, and it'll drop a bit.
> I like 9-11-10-27-1t twcl9 2133...these Dominator platinums do it easy with <1.5V.


after you open the jpeg, expand it. it's a very high rez screenshot. I do have to use a jpeg. the png file is too large for OCN.

[email protected] is my 24/7 on this CPU. Have to work on a lower clock


----------



## gdubc

I want to use 4gb dimms but it isn't so easy to find the 8×4gb kits, or at least there isn't much of a selection compared to the 8×8gb kits.


----------



## Jpmboy

here's that spreadsheet:

AID64memory-Copy.xls 15k .xls file


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You really need to edit that pic so that the numbers are legible. Damn you and your high-res monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get approximately the same numbers at 2133..there's a screenshot here in this thread somewhere, I think, or I posted it on TPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drop your CPU speed down, and it'll drop a bit.
> I like 9-11-10-27-1t twcl9 2133...these Dominator platinums do it easy with <1.5V.
> 2666 can be much faster than what I posted above :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It all depends on what you're after and how you tweak things. The low bandwidth is with my "poopy" chip, the above screenshot with my good chip.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*


Heh.

That was just XMP, screenshot from the benches I did for the board review. I post about 50 different tests in every board review, and with this board, I tested both SB-E and IVB-E, and with multiple chips and memory kits. I also re-ran the older P9X79 Deluxe for a comparison. I used SB-E for the review numbers though (since it's higher power consumption pushes the board a bit more IMHO), and the IVB-E numbers will go in an IVB-E review that I am working on now and will hopefully be done by the end of next week. I've had the RIVBE since late October, but was in school then and reviews were not my first priority.









Thanks for the spreadsheet, good info there.


----------



## rkinslo

Hello,

Just picked up my Asus Rampage IV Black Edition yesterday from Micro Center.

x79rampageivextremeblackclub.jpg 456k .jpg file


rkinslo


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Heh.
> 
> That was just XMP, screenshot from the benches I did for the board review. I post about 50 different tests in every board review, and with this board, I tested both SB-E and IVB-E, and with multiple chips and memory kits. I also re-ran the older P9X79 Deluxe for a comparison. I used SB-E for the review numbers though (since it's higher power consumption pushes the board a bit more IMHO), and the IVB-E numbers will go in an IVB-E review that I am working on now and will hopefully be done by the end of next week. I've had the RIVBE since late October, but was in school then and reviews were not my first priority.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the spreadsheet, good info there.


I think there is still some room to optimize your 2666 settings. Attached is mine for comparison. My CPU freq is lower than yours. so 'memory write' is slightly worse than yours.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I think there is still some room to optimize your 2666 settings. Attached is mine for comparison. My CPU freq is lower than yours. so 'memory write' is slightly worse than yours.


OF course there is room to optimize...as I said...that screenshot was done by enabling XMP only.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> OF course there is room to optimize...as I said...that screenshot was done by enabling XMP only.


enabling XMP only? I don't think so. In order to get the bandwidth shown in my image. I have to use extremely tight second and third timing.
I don't think XMP profile includes second/third timing. Even if it does include, XMP profile would use relatively loose timing for compatibility and stability purpose.
What kit did you use for that test, by the way?


----------



## NEOAethyr

That's my 24/7 config.
At times I've gotten the 60 odd k across the board but today I can't figure it out.
Tried upping voltages, lower ram div's, settings things to auto.
All the same lol.
I've done it in the past but never paid attention to what caused the write speeds to go up.

I just noticed my cpu cache speed, writes are half the speed but looking around that seems normal.
My main timings are manually set, all the rest are on auto.
I've messed with them before, some increases in perf but no 60k in writes so I've left them be until I can figure that out 1st.

Just yesterday I had the correct speeds with the higher bclk at just under 2400mhz mem, and at 100mhz bclk 2133mhz mem.
But today nope lol.

And yeah I've swapped my sticks around "probably"







.
I got 4x4gigs.
But the ram seems to be working perfectly, no oddities like 11-0's on the ioctl thingys (on the used banks).
Ram is dual sidded.
All the banks seem accounted for too.

Any of you guys have samsung with a higher write score then me?
Case to share a cmos profile?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> 
> 
> That's my 24/7 config.
> At times I've gotten the 60 odd k across the board but today I can't figure it out.
> Tried upping voltages, lower ram div's, settings things to auto.
> All the same lol.
> I've done it in the past but never paid attention to what caused the write speeds to go up.
> 
> I just noticed my cpu cache speed, writes are half the speed but looking around that seems normal.
> My main timings are manually set, all the rest are on auto.
> I've messed with them before, some increases in perf but no 60k in writes so I've left them be until I can figure that out 1st.
> 
> Just yesterday I had the correct speeds with the higher bclk at just under 2400mhz mem, and at 100mhz bclk 2133mhz mem.
> But today nope lol.
> 
> And yeah I've swapped my sticks around "probably"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I got 4x4gigs.
> But the ram seems to be working perfectly, no oddities like 11-0's on the ioctl thingys (on the used banks).


there must be something wrong here. Even dual channel is able to achieve 40k+ bandwidth and you're using quad channel, it is definitely abnormal.
write speed is linked to CPU freq and some settings in second/third timing. you can try to OC to 4.5G and set t_ccd_wr to 0 in third timing.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> enabling XMP only? I don't think so. In order to get the bandwidth shown in my image. I have to use extremely tight second and third timing.
> I don't think XMP profile includes second/third timing. Even if it does include, XMP profile would use relatively loose timing for compatibility and stability purpose.
> What kit did you use for that test, by the way?


I was talking about my own screenshot. Given your comment, though, you don't pay much attention to the settings in BIOS then.







This was one of the first boards in some time from ASUS that listens to most secondary timings, but now with recent BIOSes, most all recent ASUS boards now do as well. Maybe someone new is doing the BIOSes for them. Tertiary timings scale as they need to. This board's BIOS is pretty good on auto settings in that regard.

It's Corsair Dominator Platinum 2666 C10 (Samsung).(c'mon, dude, I only use high-end stuffs.







)

For my board reviews, that is all I do...enable XMP, adjust CPU voltage and clock to approx ~4.6 GHz (max 24/7 avg clock, IMHO, for all Intel chips), since that's what most of our target audience will do.

Memory reviews, well, what I do for benching depends on the platform used.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> Any of you guys have samsung with a higher write score then me?
> Case to share a cmos profile?


Check my BIOS shots in this thread for 2133 1.5V timings, and 2666 1.65V timings.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I was talking about my own screenshot. Given your comment, though, you don't pay much attention to the settings in BIOS then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was one of the first boards in some time from ASUS that listens to most secondary timings, but now with recent BIOSes, most all recent ASUS boards now do as well. Maybe someone new is doing the BIOSes for them. Tertiary timings scale as they need to. This board's BIOS is pretty good on auto settings in that regard.
> 
> It's Corsair Dominator Platinum 2666 C10 (Samsung).(c'mon, dude, I only use high-end stuffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> For my board reviews, that is all I do...enable XMP, adjust CPU voltage and clock to approx ~4.6 GHz (max 24/7 avg clock, IMHO, for all Intel chips), since that's what most of our target audience will do.
> 
> Memory reviews, well, what I do for benching depends on the platform used.
> Check my BIOS shots in this thread for 2133 1.5V timings, and 2666 1.65V timings.


You mean you get this one when enabling XMP only?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> You mean you get this one when enabling XMP only?


yep. the screenshot above that one that I posted was 2750 MHz, with only ~60K. My whole point was that there was TONNES of room for optimize.

that was on 0203 BIOS, with non-beta AIDA


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> yep. the screenshot above that one that I posted was 2750 MHz, with only ~60K. My whole point was that there was TONNES of room for optimize.
> 
> that was on 0203 BIOS, with non-beta AIDA


I guess three 70k+ for read/write/copy is pretty awesome result for quad channel. It would be difficult to go higher. Have you ever seen three 75k+?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I guess three 70k+ for read/write/copy is pretty awesome result for quad channel. It would be difficult to go higher. Have you ever seen three 75k+?


Sure, just push 4.75 GHz and ~ 2825 MHz(about 135 BCLK?). not for 24/7, but for bench, I dunno memory controller can handle that well on air. That was 1.65V, mems scale up to ~2.1 V. It's the same like Haswell, bandwidth limit is close there, and not every CPU will be able...memory is capable, controller...not so much.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Sure, just push 4.75 GHz and ~ 2825 MHz(about 135 BCLK?). not for 24/7, but for bench, I dunno memory controller can handle that well on air. That was 1.65V, mems scale up to ~2.1 V. It's the same like Haswell, bandwidth limit is close there, and not every CPU will be able...memory is capable, controller...not so much.


If we succeed doing that, how much bandwidth we can achieve?


----------



## skupples




----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Try a bit of VTT, or a bit more VCCSA. VTT additions are more flexible, but too much VCCSA seems to cause instability...maybe due to heat build-up or something.
> To you ,sir, I say:


Trying 1.1V on VTT with no difference.

But since i've changed the sound card and Graphics cards slots. Windows BSODS at startup more often then not with Driver IRQL NLOE . reinstalled both drivers with DDU and still nothing. Think i should reinstall windows.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> If we succeed doing that, how much bandwidth we can achieve?


Dunno. I have to raise tWCL, twrsr, etc before I can actually hit 75k. I have high-bin MFR, Samsung, Hynix, etc...

I had old Hynix TridentX 2666 C11 4x4 GB kit, that kit did 2933 12-14-14-35 1.65V, and was pretty darn close, but one stick died, and G.Skill had me RMA whole set. I was using kit for reviews and would have had to re-bench a whole bunch of boards, so I quickly sent them the kit and got replacement so I could keep doing reviews. The kit I got back wouldn't even do 2750 @ 1.75v.









So maybe good Haswell chip can do it, but I think IVB-E is a pointless exercise for 24/7. I think 4,500 MHz - 4,750 MHz w/ 2666 C10/C11 is great, low-volt 4.5 GHz and 2133 MHz for IVB-E, some will get lucky and get a bit more, or have $2000 cooling loops.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Trying 1.1V on VTT with no difference.
> 
> But since I've changed the sound card and Graphics cards slots. Windows BSODS at startup more often then not with Driver IRQL NLOE . reinstalled both drivers with DDU and still nothing. Think I should reinstall windows.


Usually VTT you gotta go past 1.175V~1.20V. That's why board auto-sets 1.25 V. It could be something else, I'm just basing this on the differences between what my good chips need and what the poor ones do.


----------



## asfgbdnf

is this site legit?http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
seems that is the only site have Titan backplate in stock at reasonable price.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Usually VTT you gotta go past 1.175V~1.20V. That's why board auto-sets 1.25 V. It could be something else, I'm just basing this on the differences between what my good chips need and what the poor ones do.


Ok I'll try that but it is alot.

Just to add the only way to stop it going in BSOD Circles on every reboot was to uninstall display drivers in safe mode then it worked fine so yea definitely something going on here


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> is this site legit?http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
> seems that is the only site have Titan backplate in stock at reasonable price.


yes it is a small PC shop and it is legit...


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Ok I'll try that but it is alot.
> 
> Just to add the only way to stop it going in BSOD Circles on every reboot was to uninstall display drivers in safe mode then it worked fine so yea definitely something going on here


LuLz, yeah, I clock on a spare OS, image it when things go funny.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> LuLz, yeah, I clock on a spare OS, image it when things go funny.


Yea knew it wasnt the bios when my bench windows started fine.

Edit. Now at 1.15 on VCCSA and VTT and the network connection starts fine now


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Yea knew it wasnt the bios when my bench windows started fine.
> 
> Edit. Now at 1.15 on VCCSA and VTT and the network connection starts fine now


Curious if that's why I was BSOD'ing when streaming video to Twitch at a super high bitrate, after about 20 minutes or so the PC would just cave yet up till that point show 0 inclination of any stress variable. I've since bumped settings in the bios to test.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> I had a 3820 with my sabertooth and in benches it made a big difference when i went for a 4930k . I looked at my cpu compared to 3770k and it really is the same cpu. Didnt see much difference between my old 3570k and the 3820. Love my 4930k though


Yeah, I am coming to that conclusion myself... I did check benchmarks on both of them, and compared to my 3770K, but I figured that I would get a good overclock on it, and I did, currently running solid at 4.65GHz, but I am unable to push it much higher...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 4820 does basically = 3770K. Same core, with more ram bandwidth, and more PCIe. You do rally need the 6-core to see real benefits of the platform, IMHO. Was the same thing with the 3820 and 2700K.


Hopefully I will be making the upgrade this week, I have trouble actually committing to a purchase, plus I am working on upgrading my server, kicking out the i3-3220, and going with a quad core, so I can do some virtualization, since this CPU would probably explode... Anyway, it depends on how motivated I am to do that... Also need to replace the LCD on my 15" MacBook Pro. Kind of unfortunate timing. lol

Thanks for the input everyone!


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Curious if that's why I was BSOD'ing when streaming video to Twitch at a super high bitrate, after about 20 minutes or so the PC would just cave yet up till that point show 0 inclination of any stress variable. I've since bumped settings in the bios to test.


Could have been. Although Ive just force loaded Bios 2 because the problem came back and even in stock settings the network still takes ages to load. Its a problem Asus need to fix in there bios' which i will be putting on there ROG Forums. Now if i could figure out why my benches crash as well i'd be happy. Another fine mess you got me into again Asus. I wonder if the its the same guy who messed up the sabertooth bios' that made this one...


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Curious if that's why I was BSOD'ing when streaming video to Twitch at a super high bitrate, after about 20 minutes or so the PC would just cave yet up till that point show 0 inclination of any stress variable. I've since bumped settings in the bios to test.
> 
> 
> 
> Could have been. Although Ive just force loaded Bios 2 because the problem came back and even in stock settings the network still takes ages to load. Its a problem Asus need to fix in there bios' which i will be putting on there ROG Forums. Now if i could figure out why my benches crash as well i'd be happy. Another fine mess you got me into again Asus. I wonder if the its the same guy who messed up the sabertooth bios' that made this one...
Click to expand...

Good luck on the ROG forums


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


nice !! how did you finally get it ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> is this site legit?http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
> seems that is the only site have Titan backplate in stock at reasonable price.


yes they are, they take paypal is a good sign but you can also check the reseller ratings site


----------



## centvalny

Testing 4X2GB PSC rams



http://imgur.com/EnG2aDM



76K+



http://imgur.com/MW9wWnK


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nice !! how did you finally get it ?
> yes they are, they take paypal is a good sign but you can also check the reseller ratings site


ha, I caved & just got the set. I'll mount the chip set when I pick up the new caselabs when it drops.

Will break the CPU & mobo off into one loop, & the GPU's into another. Just trying to figure out if I want to keep either the Maelstrom or the EK Bay Spin reservoirs, or sell them both & never touch a bay res again.

I'm trying to figure out if a white pump top, & white/black sata cables is enough white to use the white pom Bitspower res tops.





got both just in case.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> is this site legit?http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
> seems that is the only site have Titan backplate in stock at reasonable price.


as legit as it gets.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Those clear reservoir tops are sexy.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> screenshot from the benches I did for the board review. I post about 50 different tests in every board review, and with this board, I tested both SB-E and IVB-E, and with multiple chips and memory kits. I also re-ran the older P9X79 Deluxe for a comparison


Have you measured VCCSA differences between these two boards?

Someone should do proper comparison of minimal voltages for 4.5GHz 24/7 stability on both RIVE and RIVE BE.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes they are, they take paypal is a good sign but you can also check the reseller ratings site


as legit as it gets.[/quote]

seems they are having a severe delay processing customers' orders and deliveries. Not sure they back to business again?


----------



## yttocstfarc

I getting antzy guys......I'm ready to get this build going. Wish I could dump this old system to help it along a little quicker...lol
With the price drop of the 4930k that's what i'm going with. This is going to be EPIC. For me at least...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> as legit as it gets.
> 
> 
> 
> seems they are having a severe delay processing customers' orders and deliveries. Not sure they back to business again?
Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean. I order from Sidewinder all the time for several years now, including two orders in the past two weeks. I've never had any abnormal delays from them. They are always the first place I check, but they don't have much of a selection and a lot of what they do carry they don't keep much in stock, so I do often have to go elsewhere. Gary is a great guy, and it's just him and his wife. Sidewinder is not a big operation like PPCs or FrozenCPU, but their prices are better and their shipping is cheaper. Jab-Tech is another good one but likewise doesn't have a huge selection.


----------



## jokrik

I need some noob check here








Running 2 x 290s in my Rivbe
but I see that the second card is not detected in the HWmonitor



and when I run GPU-Z
this is what I get from 1st card



and this is what I get from 2nd card



are the difference on the details on GPU-Z between the two cards normal?
I'm no expert with this high end motherboard







and haven't got the time to play around with it


----------



## gdubc

What slots are you using for the cards?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> What slots are you using for the cards?


it's the first and third 16x slot
while I have a Xonar STX (1x I believe) on the second 16x slot


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I need some noob check here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Running 2 x 290s in my Rivbe
> but I see that the second card is not detected in the HWmonitor
> 
> 
> 
> and when I run GPU-Z
> this is what I get from 1st card
> 
> 
> 
> and this is what I get from 2nd card
> 
> 
> 
> are the difference on the details on GPU-Z between the two cards normal?
> I'm no expert with this high end motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and haven't got the time to play around with it


I'm not positive what the total core count is for these cards, but it is pretty common to get a 290 that has all of the shaders of a 290x... Once you get the other one showing up in HW monitor you should try to flash it's bios over to see if you can get full core count on both.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not sure what you mean. I order from Sidewinder all the time for several years now, including two orders in the past two weeks. I've never had any abnormal delays from them. They are always the first place I check, but they don't have much of a selection and a lot of what they do carry they don't keep much in stock, so I do often have to go elsewhere. Gary is a great guy, and it's just him and his wife. Sidewinder is not a big operation like PPCs or FrozenCPU, but their prices are better and their shipping is cheaper. Jab-Tech is another good one but likewise doesn't have a huge selection.


I mean a lot of users complaining on their Facebook regarding delay, missing of their orders.
Also, no one answers their phone call,and emails.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm not positive what the total core count is for these cards, but it is pretty common to get a 290 that has all of the shaders of a 290x... Once you get the other one showing up in HW monitor you should try to flash it's bios over to see if you can get full core count on both.


sigh still a no show on the HWmonitor









not sure what I did wrong...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm not positive what the total core count is for these cards, but it is pretty common to get a 290 that has all of the shaders of a 290x... Once you get the other one showing up in HW monitor you should try to flash it's bios over to see if you can get full core count on both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sigh still a no show on the HWmonitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure what I did wrong...
Click to expand...

Take the sound card out and see what shows . . .

May be that it's taking lanes the GPU needs or forcing the original 1 speed instead of 3.0 speed

Darlene


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Take the sound card out and see what shows . . .
> 
> May be that it's taking lanes the GPU needs
> 
> Darlene


Will give it a try tomorrow
but from what I read, having a setup like mine would still let the GPUs run at 16x and for the sound card to run at 8x

again thx Darlene
will report back tomorrow


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> as legit as it gets.
> 
> 
> 
> seems they are having a severe delay processing customers' orders and deliveries. Not sure they back to business again?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure what you mean. I order from Sidewinder all the time for several years now, including two orders in the past two weeks. I've never had any abnormal delays from them. They are always the first place I check, but they don't have much of a selection and a lot of what they do carry they don't keep much in stock, so I do often have to go elsewhere. Gary is a great guy, and it's just him and his wife. Sidewinder is not a big operation like PPCs or FrozenCPU, but their prices are better and their shipping is cheaper. Jab-Tech is another good one but likewise doesn't have a huge selection.
Click to expand...

+12
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I need some noob check here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running 2 x 290s in my Rivbe
> but I see that the second card is not detected in the HWmonitor
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and when I run GPU-Z
> this is what I get from 1st card
> 
> 
> 
> and this is what I get from 2nd card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are the difference on the details on GPU-Z between the two cards normal?
> I'm no expert with this high end motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and haven't got the time to play around with it


do your self a favor and ditch hwmonitor get hwinfo64
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not sure what you mean. I order from Sidewinder all the time for several years now, including two orders in the past two weeks. I've never had any abnormal delays from them. They are always the first place I check, but they don't have much of a selection and a lot of what they do carry they don't keep much in stock, so I do often have to go elsewhere. Gary is a great guy, and it's just him and his wife. Sidewinder is not a big operation like PPCs or FrozenCPU, but their prices are better and their shipping is cheaper. Jab-Tech is another good one but likewise doesn't have a huge selection.
> 
> 
> 
> I mean a lot of users complaining on their Facebook regarding delay, missing of their orders.
> Also, no one answers their phone call,and emails.
Click to expand...

yea never happened to me


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea never happened to me


have you ordered from them very recently>?


----------



## szeged

i ordered from sidewinder about 5 weeks ago, $200 order, it arrived in 2 days with 0 problems.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> and with this board, I tested both SB-E and IVB-E, and with multiple chips and memory kits. I also re-ran the older P9X79 Deluxe for a comparison. I used SB-E for the review numbers though (since it's higher power consumption pushes the board a bit more IMHO), and the IVB-E numbers will go in an IVB-E review that I am working on now and will hopefully be done by the end of next week. I've had the RIVBE since late October, but was in school then and reviews were not my first priority.


Would we see the MB review before that or after?

I looked at TPU and I seen ASUS Z87I-PRO (Intel LGA 1150) review instead.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> sigh still a no show on the HWmonitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure what I did wrong...


disable ULPS. ULPS shuts down the second card fully, and it displays no monitoring data when "sleeping".

Also, the shaers showing up means nothing...it's purely a bug introduced by ULPS, which is why I know that's why your card doesn't show readings as it should.(showing "autodetect" in memory box shows that ULPS is active too)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Have you measured VCCSA differences between these two boards?
> 
> Someone should do proper comparison of minimal voltages for 4.5GHz 24/7 stability on both RIVE and RIVE BE.


Between the boards I have..they are exactly the same, but VCCSA loadline is slightly different...can't adjust it on the RIVBE.









If someone will send me an RIVE, I'll make some compares.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Would we see the MB review before that or after?
> 
> I looked at TPU and I seen ASUS Z87I-PRO (Intel LGA 1150) review instead.


Yeah, I'm a couple of weeks ahead on reviews..the RIVBE review is in the publishing queue for this week. After is the EVGA Z87 Stinger, then 4960X, then ASUS IMPACT. I still have about 20 other reviews to do too. Hardware launches every day nearly, so the numbers of reviews I have is crazy. Want a job?


----------



## yknot

Sorry for this but I did do a quick search.........

I've only just got my BE edition mbd and was hoping somebody could enlighten me about the two settings in the bios, Extreme tweakers section relating to PLL termination voltages. I didn't have them on my RIVE and wanted to get it clear about their significance.

Again, sorry if it's already posted.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yknot*
> 
> Sorry for this but I did do a quick search.........
> 
> I've only just got my BE edition mbd and was hoping somebody could enlighten me about the two settings in the bios, Extreme tweakers section relating to PLL termination voltages. I didn't have them on my RIVE and wanted to get it clear about their significance.
> 
> Again, sorry if it's already posted.


PLL Termination...PLL is source voltage for the chip. It is not a consistent voltage, and it is "terminated" @ 1.45 V to prevent overshoot. enabling this option allows us to change the range where PLL is "terminated", but that's more useful for cold, not for air. air voltage ranges are 1.4-1.475 or so, while when cold, you'll need 1.5-1.55 or so. So when you enable PLL Overvoltage option, you under stand it allows overshoot past 1.45V, termination adjusts that range.

Unless benching under LN2, it's not that useful to enable or adjust, but some chips might like different settings here. I have both good and bad chips, doesn't make any difference for me that is really noticeable, but I already run 1.45V PLL most commonly, so overshoot isn't much of an issue anyway.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Between the boards I have..they are exactly the same, but VCCSA loadline is slightly different...can't adjust it on the RIVBE.


Yea, that explains it. (Thanks.) I expected no less from Asus. ~_^

Do you think we would get working LLC before Summer?

(Also I kinda wonder when my preorder arrives, last news were "the board is in EU".)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Yea, that explains it. (Thanks.) I expected no less from Asus. ~_^
> 
> Do you think we would get working LLC before Summer?
> 
> (Also I kinda wonder when my preorder arrives, last news were "the board is in EU".)


Well, the board I am usingn in my personal rig is an early board...I'm not sure it is 100% like retail. I also got a retail sample, but I gave that to an ASUS-supported bench team. So I am not sure that everything I see with my board, you guys do. The VCCSA loadline bug, weird stability problems, and now LAN being a bit funky aren't things I touched on in my review...LAN and stability seems to be CPU-related, and the sensitivity to VCCSA loadline is ALSO CPU-related, from what I can tell with my chips.

It's just a touchy board, but for LN2, I think you gotta kind of expect that.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Well after no end of problems ive finally fixed my issues.

Turns out with the network issue it was Nvidia's 334.67 beta drivers causing (I don't know how)

And with my benches I never used to have LLC-0 on. For some weird reason my old sabertooth used to overvolt which was giving it the right voltage. But now i run LLC-0 and its fine.

Edit. Now that i remember i was getting crashes with the sabertooth with 1200mhz on LLC on and it went when I used LLC-0


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Well after no end of problems ive finally fixed my issues.
> 
> Turns out with the network issue it was Nvidia's 334.67 beta drivers causing (I don't know how)
> 
> And with my benches I never used to have LLC-0 on. For some weird reason my old sabertooth used to overvolt which was giving it the right voltage. But now i run LLC-0 and its fine.


try a cold start, not reboot.


----------



## centvalny

Bios settings for my 4960X ES with Thermaltake Extreme II h20 (same settings for my lovo 4930K, with 1.225Vcore)

Only changed Vcore, Vdimm and bclk, all other bios settings on auto

PSC rams became unstable with more vdimm



http://imgur.com/YNalq3T





http://imgur.com/PLz2aCd





http://imgur.com/zXjptU9





http://imgur.com/hHgHVLs





http://imgur.com/vo2iLxS





http://imgur.com/JKxF7kn





http://imgur.com/kaiujVN





http://imgur.com/JK61RYP





http://imgur.com/IrGnl4V


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> try a cold start, not reboot.


What do you mean. Ive fixed the issues now. using 332.21 for now and reported it to Nvidia


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> What do you mean. Ive fixed the issues now. using 332.21 for now and reported it to Nvidia


I have ASUS 7970 MATRIX... and the LAN problem. It only appears when cold-starting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Bios settings for my 4960X ES with Thermaltake Extreme II h20 (same settings for my lovo 4930K, with 1.225Vcore)
> 
> Only changed Vcore, Vdimm and bclk, all other bios settings on auto
> 
> PSC rams became unstable with more vdimm


auto, FTW.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I have ASUS 7970 MATRIX... and the LAN problem. It only appears when cold-starting.
> auto, FTW.


OOOoo hmm didnt for me appeared on every startup cold boot or reboot


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> OOOoo hmm didnt for me appeared on every startup cold boot or reboot


Huh. I think it might just be the LAN driver having problems, conflicting with other drivers, then. I'll have to do some more testing, install a fresh OS and use my GTX780, see if that sorts it. Thanks for sharing though, definitely helps the thought process.


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> auto, FTW.


Yes, auto rules









Shamino and the bios team already figured it out. Probably that's why only a few bios updates (2 betas and 2 retails) comparo to RIVE


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Yes, auto rules
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shamino and the bios team already figured it out. Probably that's why only a few bios updates (2 betas and 2 retails) comparo to RIVE


For clocking, yep, board is great...best ever...but for normal use, 24-7 at stock or such...this board don't work as well as some others. As long as you follow extreme-oc rules though, even if running air...OMG, this board makes it easy. Bringing that level of optimization per clock to normal use is a big thing, and not easy.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> For clocking, yep, board is great...best ever...but for normal use, 24-7 at stock or such...this board don't work as well as some others. As long as you follow extreme-oc rules though, even if running air...OMG, this board makes it easy.


I dont see the difference between this and my sabertooth in terms of ease. This board does give better results and voltages though


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> I dont see the difference between this and my sabertooth in terms of ease. This board does give better results and voltages though


The differences are mostly about ram clocking.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Yes, auto rules
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shamino and the bios team already figured it out. Probably that's why only a few bios updates (2 betas and 2 retails) comparo to RIVE


Just wonder every RAM with PSC ic will do 2666c8 like the one shown in images, or yours are highly-binned?


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Just wonder every RAM with PSC ic will do 2666c8 like the one shown in images, or yours are highly-binned?


Not all psc ram can clock to 2666 air

Heres http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231337


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> The differences are mostly about ram clocking.


Which with me running Corsair Vengeance at 1600mhz which is shocking ram that i need to upgrade makes no difference to me yet.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Which with me running Corsair Vengeance at 1600mhz which is shocking ram that i need to upgrade makes no difference to me yet.


Well, see what centvalny posts... isn't so easy on Sabertooth. Sabertooth is meant for mid-grade OC, long-term. Set XMP, OC CPU, go. RIVBE is about benching and efficiency, with the ROG ease-of-use. Ram clocking...man, pick the profile for the IC you got(which gives general idea of voltage for the DIMM), set voltages, and clock away. If your mix of ram clock requires a certain BCLK...there's a bunch of profiles to adjust that for you too. Voltages are set a bit high so that poopier chips have a chance, but also sometimes because some setting that's optimized needs it that way... if the BIOS did it all.. where's the fun left in the OC?

Buy some benching kits of ram, and you'll understand that whole thing pretty easily, I think.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Well, see what centvalny posts... isn't so easy on Sabertooth. Sabertooth is meant for mid-grade OC, long-term. Set XMP, OC CPU, go. RIVBE is about benching and efficiency, with the ROG ease-of-use. Ram clocking...man, pick the profile for the IC you got(which gives general idea of voltage for the DIMM), set voltages, and clock away. If your mix of ram clock requires a certain BCLK...there's a bunch of profiles to adjust that for you too. Voltages are set a bit high so that poopier chips have a chance, but also sometimes because some setting that's optimized needs it that way... if the BIOS did it all.. where's the fun left in the OC?
> 
> Buy some benching kits of ram, and you'll understand that whole thing pretty easily, I think.


Yea. A Friend is after some 1.5V Corsair ram so im selling him mine and picking up some G.Skill 2400mhz


----------



## NEOAethyr

Well I tried a cmos reset with most everything on auto and still the same low write scores in aida64.
I should beable to try the 0507 bios tomorrow if I can get my usb stick back.
Maybe that'll make a difference, but I'm doubting it.

I half suspect that it's functioning in quad chan for reads, and dual chan for writes.
How odd does that sound?
But it's the only thing I can make sense of unless the mem slots are finicky.

I gotta swap vga cards anyways I'll mess around with re-inserting my mem or switching them around then.
Bugs the crap out of me, I wish I knew what was going on.
I looked around and it seems like no one else is having the same prob either.

Can somone post a some screens of memtweakit, tabs 2 and 3 for me please?
The 1st tab I've matched up with someone else's before and still no fix.
Maybe the answer is in those 2nd and 3rd tabs.

I kinda suspect my ram is at fault here, but I'de hate to send them back (they seem to beable to do 2600+ cas9), last time it took 2 months (gskill, had to ship it to china and back).

One thing that strikes me though.
Before I could lower the div, regardless of speed (2133 100mhz bclk, or 2300'ish 110blck), and the speed would go up.
But now, notta.
Thought maybe it was a bad cmos or an odd misc setting but nope.
Definitely not the cpu lol, being this is my 2nd cpu and both were affected.
Maybe it was voltages but nah I tried that too.

Even tried the going back to the stock raid driver, mem read speeds went up a tiny bit lol, but that wasn't the issue.
And I also tried a diff copy of windows, no drivers installed except for raid.
I've never ran into this type of prob before.


----------



## cadaveca

Here is 2666:


----------



## NEOAethyr

Thanks a bunch dude







.
Comparing what I have set for 2400, the only timing page 2 that differs at all is cmd_stretch, mine is set to 0, I'll try that later but that probably isn't it.
However... !








Your setup on the 3rd page is completely backwards from mine.
I think this may be the key.



I can set the banks that are 39-6 to 37-5 np.
But I cannot lower it further.

If I lower the other banks to 35-3, it gets set to 37-3 on reboot, then booting into windows and benching I get half the bandwith (37k or so).
Then rebooting and re-checking the bios it gets set to 11-0 on it's own, aka null.

It looks like the ones that are set to 5 on mine need to be increased by 2.
And the 37's set to 39.
Maybe even higher.

But I think this is the key.
Pretty sure because when I fooled with it yesterday I would get half the bandwith when I would drop a channel.
Most of the time the bios wouldn't even know it (it would still count all the ram), but in some cases I would lose half my ram.

I got a hour and a half to wait on my download to finish though but after that I'm gonna increasing it instead of decreasing it like I was yesterday.

Thanks a bunch man







.
Here's hoping that this is the ticket







.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Hrm Anyone know if this is Hynix or Samsung memory

http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2400c10q-32gtx

Ive been told to get this as the above is Hynix memory but im not sure it is.

http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2400c9q-16gtxd

I'd like to go for the 32GB since its less sticks


----------



## skupples

CAS10 is hynix, CAS9 is sammy.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea never happened to me
> 
> 
> 
> have you ordered from them very recently>?
Click to expand...

12/2013 was my most recent order


----------



## NEOAethyr

I'm giving up for now, after what I saw in my pic above I swapped d1 and c1 and still no fix.
I had finally got chan's b and d to do what I wanted them todo but then I couldn't get the other 2 chan's set to 39-5.
You figure it would be easy but you change a value and it goes to something completely different from what was expected.

For example, in that pic, I know it's blurry I should of took 2..., chan c1.
I set:
adv 2
delay 1
adv 2
delay 1

And what I got was:
39
9
39
8

From:
39
6
39
6

Real pain in the butt.
If it was simple it would of went:
norm
adv 1
norm
adv 1
(to get 39-5's)

I think I spent on hour on it lol.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm giving up for now, after what I saw in my pic above I swapped d1 and c1 and still no fix.
> I had finally got chan's b and d to do what I wanted them todo but then I couldn't get the other 2 chan's set to 39-5.
> You figure it would be easy but you change a value and it goes to something completely different from what was expected.
> 
> For example, in that pic, I know it's blurry I should of took 2..., chan c1.
> I set:
> adv 2
> delay 1
> adv 2
> delay 1
> 
> And what I got was:
> 39
> 9
> 39
> 8
> 
> From:
> 39
> 6
> 39
> 6
> 
> Real pain in the butt.
> If it was simple it would of went:
> norm
> adv 1
> norm
> adv 1
> (to get 39-5's)
> 
> I think I spent on hour on it lol.






you do know you can take a snapshot of bios with "f12" ( may not be right button but iirc it is, either way you can )


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> you do knwo you can take a snapshot of bios with "f12" ( may not be right button but iirc it is, either way you can )


Yah I know that but I can't right now, I don't have my usb stick, cousin left it over his buddies.
I could use my phone as a stick but the bios doesn't understand exfat partitions.

I normally take 2 shots of everything (to make sure I get a clear pic) but I didn't this time lol.


----------



## Mega Man

dear god 200%-400% increase ( depending on which driver you were using ) in mantle vs without in starswarm in AVERAGE fps ! and thats on my 8350 ill have to test it on my 3930k !


----------



## skupples

I feel fishiness in that test...

Unless low gpu usage, low CPU usage, & low fps = dx11 is the bottleneck or something.

Running RTS with motion blur on I was getting like 13 avg fps, 35 avg with motion blur off. I had low utilization both cpu & gpu though.


----------



## Errorist66

In reply to the post about the RIVBE having 3 extra temperature sensor connection:
I connected one of the temp sensor to a G1/4 plus with a 10K tkip on my reservoir. So I know when the water is getting warm.


----------



## Mega Man

please report the spambot !!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I feel fishiness in that test...
> 
> Unless low gpu usage, low CPU usage, & low fps = dx11 is the bottleneck or something.
> 
> Running RTS with motion blur on I was getting like 13 avg fps, 35 avg with motion blur off. I had low utilization both cpu & gpu though.


nah its a amd ! and that test has alotta physics which... amd sucks at


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please report the spambot !!
> nah its a amd ! and that test has alotta physics which... amd sucks at


talking about my own results.



this is my CPU usage, & my GPU is ~20%... running "RTS" setting, with Motion blur enabled in the "custom.ini" i get like 13 FPS. It confuses me, as gpu & cpu usage are both really low.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I feel fishiness in that test...
> 
> Unless low gpu usage, low CPU usage, & low fps = dx11 is the bottleneck or something.
> 
> Running RTS with motion blur on I was getting like 13 avg fps, 35 avg with motion blur off. I had low utilization both cpu & gpu though.


Just to add to the mantle discussion, I don't think the processors themselves are at fault. I think games just have badly written code for the cpu side of things. An example of a game with huge cpu bottleneck that I've personally tested is Starcraft 2. It doesn't matter if you have a pentium @600mhz or a 4930k @6ghz, once there are a certain number of units in the game performance just drops. Maybe directx just sucks at communicating with the cpu (talking about M$ here, they haven't released anything decent since W7), but I know for a fact the processor's power itself is not a bottleneck.


----------



## Sluggo

My first time checking out this club, and some really nice builds here with the R4BE. I just started a build log that includes this mobo: http://www.overclock.net/t/1463970/build-log-sluggofied

Hope to get some feedback from you guys on all aspects.


----------



## yknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> PLL Termination...PLL is source voltage for the chip. It is not a consistent voltage, and it is "terminated" @ 1.45 V to prevent overshoot. enabling this option allows us to change the range where PLL is "terminated", but that's more useful for cold, not for air. air voltage ranges are 1.4-1.475 or so, while when cold, you'll need 1.5-1.55 or so. So when you enable PLL Overvoltage option, you under stand it allows overshoot past 1.45V, termination adjusts that range.
> 
> Unless benching under LN2, it's not that useful to enable or adjust, but some chips might like different settings here. I have both good and bad chips, doesn't make any difference for me that is really noticeable, but I already run 1.45V PLL most commonly, so overshoot isn't much of an issue anyway.


Many thanx for that









I do use Phase Change to about -35 to -40 if that makes a difference? As you say, all chips are different but would you think 1.5v for both under Phase is ok, or just leave them at "Auto"? I understand if you say there is no right or wrong value and it's another trial and error exercise.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Now that's my kind of Black Edition Build!


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I feel fishiness in that test...
> 
> Unless low gpu usage, low CPU usage, & low fps = dx11 is the bottleneck or something.
> 
> Running RTS with motion blur on I was getting like 13 avg fps, 35 avg with motion blur off. I had low utilization both cpu & gpu though.


Considering they are testing batch processing, it should behave this way. They should add OpenGL comparison however.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yknot*
> 
> Many thanx for that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do use Phase Change to about -35 to -40 if that makes a difference? As you say, all chips are different but would you think 1.5v for both under Phase is ok, or just leave them at "Auto"? I understand if you say there is no right or wrong value and it's another trial and error exercise.


Yeah, it's trial and error. It should be useful past the point where PLL overvoltage option is needed, if that helps any. When you get it in the wrong range, it'll affect stability.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Could have been. Although Ive just force loaded Bios 2 because the problem came back and even in stock settings the network still takes ages to load. Its a problem Asus need to fix in there bios' which i will be putting on there ROG Forums. Now if i could figure out why my benches crash as well i'd be happy. Another fine mess you got me into again Asus. I wonder if the its the same guy who messed up the sabertooth bios' that made this one...


Lol never heard of that though I really do hope things get fixed, so far 0504 is a better step in the right direction, as auto settings don't stretch so far and are much more lower than what they were prior.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Well after no end of problems ive finally fixed my issues.
> 
> Turns out with the network issue it was Nvidia's 334.67 beta drivers causing (I don't know how)
> 
> And with my benches I never used to have LLC-0 on. For some weird reason my old sabertooth used to overvolt which was giving it the right voltage. But now i run LLC-0 and its fine.
> 
> Edit. Now that i remember i was getting crashes with the sabertooth with 1200mhz on LLC on and it went when I used LLC-0


You're referring to the Skynet LLC hack or LLC in the bios? If so where is that setting?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> What do you mean. Ive fixed the issues now. using 332.21 for now and reported it to Nvidia


I'll have to test this, only reason I jumped on the latest version was due to shadowplay supporting twitch, but shadowplay only supports a certain amount of games for now ( VERY LIMITED ) so I see NO point. Also found that my GPU's I think were rebooting my System, either due to power usage or other so right now I have them on 1.187 vs 1.212v @ 115% until I find an 860i in stock near me though I may order online as well we'll see. Still another 4 months before Corsair/EvGA give any full release dates on their PSU's so I'm stuck going this route anyways if I want the full effect of my cards.

Hopefully though my broadcasting doesn't bluescreen me further. I'm amazed I can do up to 10,000 kbs on bitrate for upload w/o even affecting the CPU/GPU much, especially @ 60fps and 1440p (recording/uploading not playing) while playing in surround. I have it set to around 4500-6000 though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Yea. A Friend is after some 1.5V Corsair ram so im selling him mine and picking up some G.Skill 2400mhz


Make sure you go for the C9's If I had known about them I would have as well.


----------



## yknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, it's trial and error. It should be useful past the point where PLL overvoltage option is needed, if that helps any. When you get it in the wrong range, it'll affect stability.


Many thanx "cadaveca". At least I know what's being affected in a general sense. To delve any further would probably be unlikely to turn any bad chip into a good one.

As a matter of interest I can get my 4930 to 5.2 @ 1.63v with the Phase around -44, with the bios set more or less the same as my RIVE.

I think I've given you a rep.........I think ...........(I pressed the right button







)..........Doesn't say much for my computer skills if I haven't







.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'll have to test this, only reason I jumped on the latest version was due to shadowplay supporting twitch, but shadowplay only supports a certain amount of games for now ( VERY LIMITED )


The only game I played that didn't work with Shadowplay was AoW2.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> The only game I played that didn't work with Shadowplay was AoW2.


Shadowplay only works with about 11 games right now , if not less. I'm talking about Twitch for Shadowplay not the FPS/Frap version. It's crap atm.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yknot*
> 
> Many thanx "cadaveca". At least I know what's being affected in a general sense. To delve any further would probably be unlikely to turn any bad chip into a good one.
> 
> As a matter of interest I can get my 4930 to 5.2 @ 1.63v with the Phase around -44, with the bios set more or less the same as my RIVE.
> 
> I think I've given you a rep.........I think ...........(I pressed the right button
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )..........Doesn't say much for my computer skills if I haven't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks man.

I don't know how long you've been OC'ing, but by running phase, I assume a while. Back in SKT775, we have GTLs to play with. Same sort of thing, but on the main voltage to the CPU, where clock is sourced from. So you'll be good until it's kinda hairy with the auto rules, I think, as it's just another option to play with, might get another multi or two, maybe more MHz...each chip is gonna be different and I think it's gonna depend a bit on how much power you're pulling and how stable that power is.

I've tried playing with it myself, didn't make any difference for the clocks I am running, which are pretty modest, considering.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Make sure you go for the C9's If I had known about them I would have as well.


you cant find them anymore ( at least i cant ) i would of bought a few sets as well ( but i would of kept my cl10s as they are 8gb sticks and 8gb sticks only come in 10 or 11 the 4 gb sticks came in 9 or 10 )


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Lol never heard of that though I really do hope things get fixed, so far 0504 is a better step in the right direction, as auto settings don't stretch so far and are much more lower than what they were prior.
> You're referring to the Skynet LLC hack or LLC in the bios? If so where is that setting?
> I'll have to test this, only reason I jumped on the latest version was due to shadowplay supporting twitch, but shadowplay only supports a certain amount of games for now ( VERY LIMITED ) so I see NO point. Also found that my GPU's I think were rebooting my System, either due to power usage or other so right now I have them on 1.187 vs 1.212v @ 115% until I find an 860i in stock near me though I may order online as well we'll see. Still another 4 months before Corsair/EvGA give any full release dates on their PSU's so I'm stuck going this route anyways if I want the full effect of my cards.
> 
> Hopefully though my broadcasting doesn't bluescreen me further. I'm amazed I can do up to 10,000 kbs on bitrate for upload w/o even affecting the CPU/GPU much, especially @ 60fps and 1440p (recording/uploading not playing) while playing in surround. I have it set to around 4500-6000 though.
> Make sure you go for the C9's If I had known about them I would have as well.


Ok........ Network issues back again since ive use uplay again. Delay are startup is back and no adjusting VCCSA and VTT fixes it. Only way ive found how is to wipe the bios.

I was referring to Skyn3t's LLC Mod. But after my bench session yesterday.

I discovered that it was user error causing problems with benches and I've got some serious setting messing to do to get the right bench. Because of a 19340 on 3dmark from running 1320Mhz at 1.3V with LLC on which is more like 1.27V. This board is a completely different beast and its going to take a while to tame it.

334.67 was causing BSOD's with me on a loop which I no longer get. If you don't get them you'll be fine. I'm going to need either a AX1500i or 2 of them. Constantly hitting limits now during benching.

I went with C10's because you can't get C9's here at all. But upon looking into it. They change IC's depending on the serial number. So I looked for some with "2500" in the serial and found some double sided Samsung chips


----------



## binormalkilla

You kids ready to see some gore pics







Well, I had a pipe burst in my condo a few weeks ago, and my rig was able to survive (somehow). Here are before and after pics. I need to order some screws from Caselabs because they're all rusted out now, but other than that I'm okay. Thankfully, the first thing I did when I got home was throw all of the switches in the breaker box when I got home.

I still need to completely disassemble everything and clean it, then install my RIVBE EK blocks (finally).


----------



## skupples

renters insurance? I hear you may be getting a check for a 1,000 case!


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> You kids ready to see some gore pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I had a pipe burst in my condo a few weeks ago, and my rig was able to survive (somehow). Here are before and after pics. I need to order some screws from Caselabs because they're all rusted out now, but other than that I'm okay. Thankfully, the first thing I did when I got home was throw all of the switches in the breaker box when I got home.
> 
> I still need to completely disassemble everything and clean it, then install my RIVBE EK blocks (finally).


Insurance FTW!


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Insurance FTW!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> renters insurance? I hear you may be getting a check for a 1,000 case!


Yep, pretty much. I had a TON of electronics bite the dust. It was a pain just itemizing everything that was hit with water soaked insulation.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Insurance FTW!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> renters insurance? I hear you may be getting a check for a 1,000 case!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yep, pretty much. I had a TON of electronics bite the dust. It was a pain just itemizing everything that was hit with water soaked insulation.
Click to expand...

DMN the luck..


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> You kids ready to see some gore pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I had a pipe burst in my condo a few weeks ago, and my rig was able to survive (somehow). Here are before and after pics. I need to order some screws from Caselabs because they're all rusted out now, but other than that I'm okay. Thankfully, the first thing I did when I got home was throw all of the switches in the breaker box when I got home.
> 
> I still need to completely disassemble everything and clean it, then install my RIVBE EK blocks (finally).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, that is some damage! And to think the rig is still running, awesome. Which R4BE blocks did you get? I just installed the acetal ones on Sunday.


----------



## skupples

got the VRM channel installed, going to hold off on the chipset block until the next rebuild when I can break off the mobo/cpu into a separate loop.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> DMN the luck..


Well...I mean if you consider coming home from work, then getting a call saying water is pouring out of your front door good luck..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Wow, that is some damage! And to think the rig is still running, awesome. Which R4BE blocks did you get? I just installed the acetal ones on Sunday.


I got the Acetal ones as well. I still need to order some compression fittings and probably some more white tubing as well. I had a bag of it laying around before the accident, but I don't know where it is.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> I got the Acetal ones as well. I still need to order some compression fittings and probably some more white tubing as well. I had a bag of it laying around before the accident, but I don't know where it is.


Sweet, the black on black with that silver logo just looks so killer. I got some Primochill revolver fittings in black nickel with the straight knurled grip. As far as your tubing, I guess it couldn't handle the GPM?


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Just to add I have definitely found the root cause to be something with nvidia drivers causing the network problem. The only way i got rid of it was to use DDU and reinstall gfx drivers. Even just doing a clean install over doesn't work.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*
> 
> You kids ready to see some gore pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I had a pipe burst in my condo a few weeks ago, and my rig was able to survive (somehow). Here are before and after pics. I need to order some screws from Caselabs because they're all rusted out now, but other than that I'm okay. Thankfully, the first thing I did when I got home was throw all of the switches in the breaker box when I got home.
> 
> I still need to completely disassemble everything and clean it, then install my RIVBE EK blocks (finally).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that sucks so sorry ! glad to hear your rig is ok though ~


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got the VRM channel installed, going to hold off on the chipset block until the next rebuild when I can break off the mobo/cpu into a separate loop.


Very nice! I just finished mine as well and am now wishing I would have installed the RIVE-BE kit.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Cross Post from Raja at Asus on the ROG forums

Quote:


> Just to clear something up. Having two power connectors allows the current to be shared so that the wires/pins do not get hot and suffer thermal breakdown. It does not make the system pass stress tests where it would otherwise fail with an error reported in the test. The benefit is from a longevity standpoint rather than an improvement in outright overclock stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With SNB-E CPUs, the current draw is substantial. Over 4.4GHz it's advised to use both connectors to prevent thermal failure.
> 
> Ivy-E CPUs pull less current, meaning most systems will last with just the 8 pin used. However, if pushing the Ivy-E CPUs past 4.6GHz and using stress tests a lot, then I'd plug in the 8 pin and 4 pin just as a precautionary measure for long term use.
> 
> -Raja


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Cross Post from Raja at Asus on the ROG forums
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Just to clear something up. Having two power connectors allows the current to be shared so that the wires/pins do not get hot and suffer thermal breakdown. It does not make the system pass stress tests where it would otherwise fail with an error reported in the test. The benefit is from a longevity standpoint rather than an improvement in outright overclock stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With SNB-E CPUs, the current draw is substantial. Over 4.4GHz it's advised to use both connectors to prevent thermal failure.
> 
> Ivy-E CPUs pull less current, meaning most systems will last with just the 8 pin used. However, if pushing the Ivy-E CPUs past 4.6GHz and using stress tests a lot, then I'd plug in the 8 pin and 4 pin just as a precautionary measure for long term use.
> 
> -Raja
Click to expand...

There is a reason I stick to OCN.


----------



## gdubc

No love for Raja? Lol


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> No love for Raja? Lol


Noone loves Raja more than Raja


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Lol your all so ungrateful


----------



## Raghar

I have silly request. Can someone who doesn't use water cooling on VRM snap shot of this board with IR camera? I'm curious how well the heatpipe works.

Or someone with thermal probe can measure temperature of both pieces of heatsink, to show how well they heat goes to that left heatsink.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I have silly request. Can someone who doesn't use water cooling on VRM snap shot of this board with IR camera? I'm curious how well the heatpipe works.
> 
> Or someone with thermal probe can measure temperature of both pieces of heatsink, to show how well they heat goes to that left heatsink.


I just got mine booted last night and haven't installed my blocks yet. With my "Commercial Electric" IR Thermometer I'm getting between ~79.4-84.9F on my Mosfets and ~85.6-89.9F on my IO Guard/Heatsink

Not sure how reliable the CE IR Thermometer is...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Cross Post from Raja at Asus on the ROG forums
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Just to clear something up. Having two power connectors allows the current to be shared so that the wires/pins do not get hot and suffer thermal breakdown. It does not make the system pass stress tests where it would otherwise fail with an error reported in the test. The benefit is from a longevity standpoint rather than an improvement in outright overclock stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With SNB-E CPUs, the current draw is substantial. Over 4.4GHz it's advised to use both connectors to prevent thermal failure.
> 
> Ivy-E CPUs pull less current, meaning most systems will last with just the 8 pin used. However, if pushing the Ivy-E CPUs past 4.6GHz and using stress tests a lot, then I'd plug in the 8 pin and 4 pin just as a precautionary measure for long term use.
> 
> -Raja
Click to expand...

ironically atx spec says up to 2x8pins
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I have silly request. Can someone who doesn't use water cooling on VRM snap shot of this board with IR camera? I'm curious how well the heatpipe works.
> 
> Or someone with thermal probe can measure temperature of both pieces of heatsink, to show how well they heat goes to that left heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> I just got mine booted last night and haven't installed my blocks yet. With my "Commercial Electric" IR Thermometer I'm getting between ~79.4-84.9F on my Mosfets and ~85.6-89.9F on my IO Guard/Heatsink
> 
> Not sure how reliable the CE IR Thermometer is...
Click to expand...

it should work decent, the cheap ones will still be pretty accurate, it is no longer a hard item to make in terms of the tech.

esp as this is a flat black surface it will be relatively accurate,

with that said i have to say i am very surprised with how well it works ( back to the heatsink ) i have to admit when i am priming i never expected that i/o cover to get warm let alone hot.
but it does !


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

This board has been great for overclocking, every other day I get a blue screen, It restarts and back to normal. It is about to get on my nerves.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> This board has been great for overclocking, every other day I get a blue screen, It restarts and back to normal. It is about to get on my nerves.


Blue screen implies instability, at least you don't have random restarts for no reason... fairly impossible to troubleshoot.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Blue screen implies instability, at least you don't have random restarts for no reason... fairly impossible to troubleshoot.


Happens with everything at stock speeds, its actually worse at stock CPU and Memory Settings. Was fine for a few weeks, it happened to me last night 2 minutes after start up. Everything went back to normal after restart. I gamed for 5 hours without any hiccups.


----------



## skupples

stick a 3930k in your board. Mine is stable as a rock.

I'm so glad I caved on 4930k.

=P


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> stick a 3930k in your board. Mine is stable as a rock.
> 
> I'm so glad I caved on 4930k.
> 
> =P


My 4930K was never unstable with that old Gigabyte Up4 board. Gonna a new chip soon, if that doesn't fix it, I might grab a 700USD 3970X from Micro Center


----------



## derickwm

I've been using this board for about 24 hours now and I am thoroughly unimpressed. First off it wouldn't stop shutting down, finally found a fix on ROG forums that had me change some obscure BIOS settings. Then even after doing that I kept finding that it'd shut down every so often, still! Ended up downclocking the 3820 to 32x100... Going on 3 hours of stable. Mind you none of these shutdowns occurred during stress testing of the CPUs. Got a couple of GPUs mining but other than that the CPU is basically never used. I'm not usually one to rant about a product being kind of lame but for being the flagship board in an enthusiast oriented chipset...

Pics for lulz:


----------



## skupples

Welcome to the club derick! Strange that it's happening on your sb-e. I must be lucky to not have these issues. Though, iv'e twerked pretty much every possible setting. Running my 3930k @ 4.9 atm @ 1.42

saddest part about all of this. Go drop a complaint about the issues on the ROG forums... see what happens... Well, derick may get different treatment from Raja's minions, but yeaaaah...


----------



## enilsen16

So how come NVIDIA Control panel and GPU Z are Both reporting PCI E 2.0 instead of 3.0? Im getting about 20-40 frames less than I did with my 3770K. Both are/were OC'd at 4.1GHZ.

How can I fix it? cause I called ASUS support and they said "it should be automatic".

I asked if a new Bios would be coming out soon, they said they are unsure. Its kinda disappointing this was supposed to be the 'King Board of the X79 platform'....


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Happens with everything at stock speeds, its actually worse at stock CPU and Memory Settings. Was fine for a few weeks, it happened to me last night 2 minutes after start up. Everything went back to normal after restart. I gamed for 5 hours without any hiccups.


Sounds like my previous system. It would blue screen once in a day... and after it reboots, everything is fine.... until a couple days later.. it would blue screen/reboot... then I was good for the day again. I got tired of it... so I decided to do a fresh new install of windows by going into disk options and delete the current install and partitions... and re-installed fresh so I can get clean driver updates. I was hoping it would get rid of any bad stray drivers... that might be giving me the BSOD. After doing all the windows updates, I deleted everything associated with my NVidia drivers... because it automatically installed an old NVidia driver during the Windows update... and downloaded the installed the current NVidia drivers. After I was all setup with all the necessary drivers... no more blue screens and reboots. I had to start all over again... re-installing everything... but it was worth it.

BTW... do you game in 3D with your BenQ XL2420TX? I just got these in the mail today (below).... and started playing a little bit of Tomb Raider 2013 and BF3, and OMG!!!! I mean... WOW!!! words just can't explain how good it looks gaming in 3D on tri-surround monitors.

NVidia 3 monitor tri-surround + NVidia 3D Vision 2... and sexy Lara Croft in 3D...









I've heard 3D is working in BF4 with the latest beta drivers... but for now... all my old games just became new again...


----------



## Mega Man

i will tell you the same thing i tell everyone.

Rigbuilder is your friend, it helps us help you upper right of this page then google " overclock.net how to put rig in sig"

i know you have a sli ( x2 770 )

and RIVBE,
so basically you went to a mechanic and said " my camaro is acting funny and it has a v8 "


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i will tell you the same thing i tell everyone.
> 
> Rigbuilder is your friend, it helps us help you upper right of this page then google " overclock.net how to put rig in sig"
> 
> i know you have a sli ( x2 770 )
> 
> and RIVBE,
> so basically you went to a mechanic and said " my camaro is acting funny and it has a v8 "


definitely need to replace your head light fluid. 1,000$, as it's made from whale.

@erayser How do bezels translate when in 3d mode?


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @erayser How do bezels translate when in 3d mode?


Funny... I was going to answer that it wasn't any different since I'm used to playing in 2D... but I restarted Tomb Raider just to give a quick look. Since there is depth... which seems like you are looking through the screen, the bezels in the foreground looks transparent since you look past them. You don't notice them as much. I don't use bezel corrections because of issues with navigation maps and HUD's... and it still looks fine. Hope G-Sync supports 3D... or this will be hard to give up. But G-Sync monitors is what I'm looking forward to next.


----------



## skupples

G-sync doesn't support surround yet. It's hopefully being worked on. According to NV forum reps. It will (obviously) require MST hub for those on 1 or 2x GPU's.


----------



## enilsen16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i will tell you the same thing i tell everyone.
> 
> Rigbuilder is your friend, it helps us help you upper right of this page then google " overclock.net how to put rig in sig"
> 
> i know you have a sli ( x2 770 )
> 
> and RIVBE,
> so basically you went to a mechanic and said " my camaro is acting funny and it has a v8 "


I guess.

I didnt know about Rig Builder till now, but I added it to my sig.

Thank you.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I've been using this board for about 24 hours now and I am thoroughly unimpressed. First off it wouldn't stop shutting down, finally found a fix on ROG forums that had me change some obscure BIOS settings. Then even after doing that I kept finding that it'd shut down every so often, still! Ended up _downclocking_ the 3820 to 32x100... Going on 3 hours of stable. Mind you none of these shutdowns occurred during stress testing of the CPUs. Got a couple of GPUs mining but other than that the CPU is basically never used. I'm not usually one to rant about a product being kind of lame but for being the flagship board in an enthusiast oriented chipset...
> 
> Pics for lulz:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Something's wrong because mine runs better than expected. Either you got a bad motherboard which happens or some other hardware your using is causing issues. I haven't looked but so far I haven't heard of anyone having issues like your describing, here anyhow. Only time I've had mine shut down was overclocking over 5GHz but I think that's normal, lol
If I were you I'd figure it out ASAP while you still can RMA to where ever you bought it, I wouldn't want to find out later that it was the board and have to RMA it to Asus


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enilsen16*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i will tell you the same thing i tell everyone.
> 
> Rigbuilder is your friend, it helps us help you upper right of this page then google " overclock.net how to put rig in sig"
> 
> i know you have a sli ( x2 770 )
> 
> and RIVBE,
> so basically you went to a mechanic and said " my camaro is acting funny and it has a v8 "
> 
> 
> 
> I guess.
> 
> I didnt know about Rig Builder till now, but I added it to my sig.
> 
> Thank you.
Click to expand...

np have to ask did you update to latest drivers? intel chipset and nvidia ( no idea if this works mine does on 3930k and 7970 )


----------



## skupples

that post makes me wonder if new drivers exist out side of the launch disk for 3930k chipset... probably not... will have to look tomorrow.


----------



## enilsen16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> np have to ask did you update to latest drivers? intel chipset and nvidia ( no idea if this works mine does on 3930k and 7970 )


Yes latest intel drivers and latest NVIDIA WHQL Drivers. (The beta driver that they released last week was giving me issues)...


----------



## Arm3nian

The new beta drivers for nvidia made my screen freeze every few seconds when browsing the web, removed and reinstalled the whql and it got rid of it.

As for my random restarts, it happens very specifically - when I am watching a video, does not matter where, and the video is not in fullscreen.


----------



## skupples

The only thing iv'e noticed on the new drivers is my task bar flying around. It will just randomly show up on the left/right/top of my screen.









it also fixed allot of the surround issues I had, so it's a win/lose.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Sounds like my previous system. It would blue screen once in a day... and after it reboots, everything is fine.... until a couple days later.. it would blue screen/reboot... then I was good for the day again. I got tired of it... so I decided to do a fresh new install of windows by going into disk options and delete the current install and partitions... and re-installed fresh so I can get clean driver updates. I was hoping it would get rid of any bad stray drivers... that might be giving me the BSOD. After doing all the windows updates, I deleted everything associated with my NVidia drivers... because it automatically installed an old NVidia driver during the Windows update... and downloaded the installed the current NVidia drivers. After I was all setup with all the necessary drivers... no more blue screens and reboots. I had to start all over again... re-installing everything... but it was worth it.
> 
> BTW... do you game in 3D with your BenQ XL2420TX? I just got these in the mail today (below).... and started playing a little bit of Tomb Raider 2013 and BF3, and OMG!!!! I mean... WOW!!! words just can't explain how good it looks gaming in 3D on tri-surround monitors.
> 
> NVidia 3 monitor tri-surround + NVidia 3D Vision 2... and sexy Lara Croft in 3D...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard 3D is working in BF4 with the latest beta drivers... but for now... all my old games just became new again...


I was really impressed with the colors while gaming on 3D. Here's why I don't often game on 3D. I can either wear my headset or the glasses, these do don't play well together. I love this monitor, got rid of my 1440p screen and just kept this one. I'm excited for the New Asus Swift monitor, my go back to that if it lives up to expectations.

As far as Blue Screens, that's one thing I havnt tried, and I do have spare ssd. My main ssd had the same operating system that I installed a year ago with a z77 platform. That could very well be my problem, and here I am hating the motherboard.

This version of windows I'm running has seen a bunch CPUs and motherboards come and go. It's definitely time for a clean install.


----------



## KUSTOMIZER

Hey guys,

This might be a very stupid question :|

The onboard sound on this board, where is the software to adjust EQ and effects etc? where do you setup the headphone amp?
for that matter where do you plug in the headphones? in the line out?

I only have sound radar software, with very minimal Realtek BS. I honestly hope that they are not hyping up this Realtek BS as high end.

It sounds ok to me, not great, but where is what, am I missing something here?

Thanks!


----------



## USFORCES

You have to install it from the disk that came with the board.


----------



## KUSTOMIZER

Hi thanks for the reply!

I did install everything and cannot find that anywhere.


----------



## Eddie Smurphy

I got my Rampage IV Black Edition a few days ago and wanted to build a PWM controlled watercooling solution. Here's my plan:


Connect 22 PWM radiator fans to 3 Swiftec 8-way PWM splitters (modified to only use one PWM signal)
Use temperature probe connected to motherboard (OPT_TEMP1) to get water temperature and create custom PWM curve
Use PWM signal from OPT_FAN1 on motherboard
Pumps will be run on a separate pump controller.

Now to my concerns:

Is the OPT_FAN1 header true PWM and can I regulate the PWM curve based on the temperature I get from OPT_TEMP1?
I found a few threads with people saying only the CPU header is PWM, but when I look at the manual I'd think they are all PMW.

If the header is not PWM but voltage control I'd just go with normal 3 pin fan splitters and find another way of doing it over the motherboard, or would you have any better suggestions? I'm aiming to run my fans at very low speeds.

Hope this is not


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KUSTOMIZER*
> 
> Hi thanks for the reply!
> 
> I did install everything and cannot find that anywhere.


It's Realtek HD it should be in your startup, if you can't find it maybe reinstall it...


----------



## Mulle1991

Hello All









I having some problems with my brand new Asus Rampage IV black edition :/

here is the issue

Got the newest Bios update

Simple. I cant get my memory up and running at XMP profiles nomatter what i do :O

The memory is G-skill TridentX 2400Mhz 10-12-12-31 1.65v
tryed Auto settings and manual settings, it wont let me do it,

ones i tryed 10-13-13-32 1.65V
It was able to start but it crashed after a little time running.

Memory works perfectly With my MSI BigBang Xpower II on XMP 10-12-12-31 1.65V
never Crashes?

im lost dont know that to do here.
What the H. . . is the issue here?









Plzz Respond guys <3


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eddie Smurphy*
> 
> I got my Rampage IV Black Edition a few days ago and wanted to build a PWM controlled watercooling solution. Here's my plan:
> 
> 
> Connect 22 PWM radiator fans to 3 Swiftec 8-way PWM splitters (modified to only use one PWM signal)
> Use temperature probe connected to motherboard (OPT_TEMP1) to get water temperature and create custom PWM curve
> Use PWM signal from OPT_FAN1 on motherboard
> Pumps will be run on a separate pump controller.
> 
> Now to my concerns:
> 
> Is the OPT_FAN1 header true PWM and can I regulate the PWM curve based on the temperature I get from OPT_TEMP1?
> I found a few threads with people saying only the CPU header is PWM, but when I look at the manual I'd think they are all PMW.
> 
> If the header is not PWM but voltage control I'd just go with normal 3 pin fan splitters and find another way of doing it over the motherboard, or would you have any better suggestions? I'm aiming to run my fans at very low speeds.
> 
> Hope this is not


RIVB3 manual page 1-44:


^ Only CPU headers are PWM


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hello All
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I having some problems with my brand new Asus Rampage IV black edition :/
> 
> here is the issue
> 
> Got the newest Bios update
> 
> Simple. I cant get my memory up and running at XMP profiles nomatter what i do :O
> 
> The memory is G-skill TridentX 2400Mhz 10-12-12-31 1.65v
> tryed Auto settings and manual settings, it wont let me do it,
> 
> ones i tryed 10-13-13-32 1.65V
> It was able to start but it crashed after a little time running.
> 
> Memory works perfectly With my MSI BigBang Xpower II on XMP 10-12-12-31 1.65V
> never Crashes?
> 
> im lost dont know that to do here.
> What the H. . . is the issue here?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plzz Respond guys <3


Is the G-skill memory you have supported on this board? I'm using G-skill-Z 64gb 2400Mhz and the XMP profile 11-13-13-31 works fine but it likes 1866-2000MHz 11-11-11-28 a lot better, overclocks are stable and memory score is much higher.
I'm not really a memory guru but I know the 4960X only uses 1866MHz so what good does anything higher do, I've always tweaked it for best timings and clock speed that allows me to get highest stable overclock, LOL

Edit: I also have the memory voltage set to auto which shows it's 1.66v-1.67v this memory just don't like 1.65v for some reason. Either that or the voltage readout I'm getting isn't correct.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Is the G-skill memory you have supported on this board? I'm using G-skill-Z 64gb 2400Mhz and the XMP profile 11-13-13-31 works fine but it likes 1866-2000MHz 11-11-11-31 a lot better, overclocks are stable and memory score is much higher.
> I'm not really a memory guru but I know the 4960X only uses 1866MHz so what good does anything higher do, I've always tweaked it for best timings and clock speed that allows me to get highest stable overclock, LOL


I cant se the Model number in the memory list in manual, but some kits with the same CL times??

These RAM is what i got. dont gonne downgrade because i an buying a new motherboard?









And they workt perfectly on my Xpower 2, so why not here?


----------



## Eddie Smurphy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> RIVB3 manual page 1-44:
> 
> 
> ^ Only CPU headers are PWM


All right, thanks for clearing that up. Voltage control and fan splitters wont work for 22 fans







so I'll have to get something else for that then...


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> I cant se the Model number in the memory list in manual, but some kits with the same CL times??
> 
> These RAM is what i got. dont gonne downgrade because i an buying a new motherboard?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And they workt perfectly on my Xpower 2, so why not here?


Go to G.Skill web site and see what it says, before I got the memory for this board I found this at there site. Some reason G.skill suggest the RipjawsZ for the X79 chipset.
Quote:


> RipjawsZ series is the ultimate quad-channel memory solution designed specifically for the cutting edge LGA-2011 Core i7 processors and X79 chipset platform.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Go to G.Skill web site and see what it says, before I got the memory for this board I found this at there site. Some reason G.skill suggest the RipjawsZ for the X79 chipset.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


his old motherboard is a X79.. but you are right about the ripjawsz I have a 64GB set in my RIVE no problems with 2400


----------



## _REAPER_

I had some issues with 64gig Corsair Dominators I am going to have to try out the Gskill


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Go to G.Skill web site and see what it says, before I got the memory for this board I found this at there site. Some reason G.skill suggest the RipjawsZ for the X79 chipset.
> 
> Well im able to run my memory at 1866mhz 11-11-11-31 1.65V
> 
> it wont let me use 2400Mhz 11-13-13-31 1.65V
> just showing Q-code 60 = DXE Core i started?
> like always


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I had some issues with 64gig Corsair Dominators I am going to have to try out the Gskill


hehe this is G-skill memory and it dosent work :/


----------



## USFORCES

Right, I don't know what difference it makes but G.skill suggest TridentX for the 1155 socket Z boards not the 2011 socket X79. I myself am not a memory guru but I guess I'll take there word for it, in the past I've always used corsair and they don't ever suggest a certain chipset.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Right, I don't know what difference it makes but G.skill suggest TridentX for the 1155 socket Z boards not the 2011 socket X79. I myself am not a memory guru but I guess I'll take there word for it, in the past I've always used corsair and they don't ever suggest a certain chipset.


So what are you saying?

that i have to buy some new memory?









for god sake! i just board these ones???


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Right, I don't know what difference it makes but G.skill suggest TridentX for the 1155 socket Z boards not the 2011 socket X79. I myself am not a memory guru but I guess I'll take there word for it, in the past I've always used corsair and they don't ever suggest a certain chipset.


Would thoes 100% work at XMP in my Rampage IV Black edition?

http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-19200cl10q2-64gbzhd


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> So what are you saying?
> 
> that i have to buy some new memory?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for god sake! i just board these ones???


I'm not saying that, I'd try lower clock speeds first and like I said if you go to G.Skills site they say the RipjawZ was made specifically for the X79 chipset.
Worse scenario you sell your TridentX and get RipjawZ.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I'm not saying that, I'd try lower clock speeds first and like I said if you go to G.Skills site they say the RipjawZ was made specifically for the X79 chipset.
> Worse scenario you sell your TridentX and get RipjawZ.


I already lowered my memory spec.

1866Mhz 11-11-11-31 1.65V
Works for me right now?

But thats not exacly what i want :/
i bought 2400Mhz to run 2400Mhz and not 1866







you know that i mean


----------



## KUSTOMIZER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> You have to install it from the disk that came with the board.


Ahh thanks, was disabled on startup. lol

Ummm the EQ is nasty...... I have sennheiser HD595's which need a bit of bass to be added, and when i do that the it messes up how the mids and highs sound. (typical Realtek)

How does the headphone amp work? as it sure as hell does not sound like a proper headphone amp.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> I already lowered my memory spec.
> 
> 1866Mhz 11-11-11-31 1.65V
> Works for me right now?
> 
> But thats not exacly what i want :/
> i bought 2400Mhz to run 2400Mhz and not 1866
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you know that i mean


What you want and what the CPU is able to do on this board might be 2 different things. and I have bought high speed memory lots of time and had to lower the specs on it.

this is unusual the only memory I have had to do this with is corsair or kingston and never Gskill. Need to post screen shots of your bios I bet you have something wrong in it. I have the RIVE not BE so dont think I can help you but I am sure someone can..


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Would thoes 100% work at XMP in my Rampage IV Black edition?
> 
> http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-19200cl10q2-64gbzhd


That looks like good stuff, You know you don't need 64gb, actually 32gb is more than enough I only got 64 so I could Ramdisk half of it. What CPU are you using? If you notice some say (Ivy Bridge-E) and some don't I don't know if that makes a difference either. I know this stuff I got allows me to overclock the Ivy Bridge-E over 5GHz quite easily.

Talk to you latter, I got to go...


----------



## Kimir

For the Trident X to work on RIVE/R4BE you'll need to enter the secondary timings manually.
The XMP profile on Trident X is 1.3, while on ripjaws it's 1.2.
I'm not sure on the BE or with newest Ivy-E bios for RIVE, but for me, the secondary timings were set for the default 1066Mhz and putting XMP wouldn't boot at all until B Negative told me to look at the secondary timings.



If those screen can help







2x8Go Trident X 10-12-12-32-2T


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> What you want and what the CPU is able to do on this board might be 2 different things. and I have bought high speed memory lots of time and had to lower the specs on it.
> 
> this is unusual the only memory I have had to do this with is corsair or kingston and never Gskill. Need to post screen shots of your bios I bet you have something wrong in it. I have the RIVE not BE so dont think I can help you but I am sure someone can..


Will i try to take some pictures of my Bios, then u take a look at is, This Asus Board is new for me i havent havent had Asus for a long time









This will take a little time, Sorry but just wont this problem to go away









I will post som pic of the bios in short time


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> For the Trident X to work on RIVE/R4BE you'll need to enter the secondary timings manually.
> The XMP profile on Trident X is 1.3, while on ripjaws it's 1.2.
> I'm not sure on the BE or with newest Ivy-E bios for RIVE, but for me, the secondary timings were set for the default 1066Mhz and putting XMP wouldn't boot at all until B Negative told me to look at the secondary timings.
> 
> 
> 
> If those screen can help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2x8Go Trident X 10-12-12-32-2T


ill give it a try


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> That looks like good stuff, You know you don't need 64gb, actually 32gb is more than enough I only got 64 so I could Ramdisk half of it. What CPU are you using? If you notice some say (Ivy Bridge-E) and some don't I don't know if that makes a difference either. I know this stuff I got allows me to overclock the Ivy Bridge-E over 5GHz quite easily.
> 
> Talk to you latter, I got to go...


I got a 3960X Stock speed at the moment, but will overclock to 4.6Ghz alittle later









Thanks thats okay and thanks for your help


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> For the Trident X to work on RIVE/R4BE you'll need to enter the secondary timings manually.
> The XMP profile on Trident X is 1.3, while on ripjaws it's 1.2.
> I'm not sure on the BE or with newest Ivy-E bios for RIVE, but for me, the secondary timings were set for the default 1066Mhz and putting XMP wouldn't boot at all until B Negative told me to look at the secondary timings.
> 
> 
> 
> If those screen can help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2x8Go Trident X 10-12-12-32-2T


Well didnt work..

it just freezes in wondows.
and bluescreen.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Did a couple of differences and im not sure it really made a difference.

Which is better ??


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> twerked


Please post a video!


----------



## rabidz7

If I ram 6 dimms into this board, will quad-channel work?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I've been using this board for about 24 hours now and I am thoroughly unimpressed. First off it wouldn't stop shutting down, finally found a fix on ROG forums that had me change some obscure BIOS settings. Then even after doing that I kept finding that it'd shut down every so often, still! Ended up _downclocking_ the 3820 to 32x100... Going on 3 hours of stable. Mind you none of these shutdowns occurred during stress testing of the CPUs. Got a couple of GPUs mining but other than that the CPU is basically never used. I'm not usually one to rant about a product being kind of lame but for being the flagship board in an enthusiast oriented chipset...
> 
> Pics for lulz:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


For the downclocking with SB-E on this board, you need to do this fix:



I don't like the sound thumping upon start up and the vdroop with this board. Everything else is swell.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Well didnt work..
> 
> it just freezes in wondows.
> and bluescreen.


Well, that might be your IMC that doesn't like such high mem frequency then. Weird if you have a 4930k, not so much if you have a 3930k, most can do 2133 but few can manage more.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eddie Smurphy*
> 
> I got my Rampage IV Black Edition a few days ago and wanted to build a PWM controlled watercooling solution. Here's my plan:
> 
> 
> Connect 22 PWM radiator fans to 3 Swiftec 8-way PWM splitters (modified to only use one PWM signal)
> Use temperature probe connected to motherboard (OPT_TEMP1) to get water temperature and create custom PWM curve
> Use PWM signal from OPT_FAN1 on motherboard
> Pumps will be run on a separate pump controller.
> 
> Now to my concerns:
> 
> Is the OPT_FAN1 header true PWM and can I regulate the PWM curve based on the temperature I get from OPT_TEMP1?
> I found a few threads with people saying only the CPU header is PWM, but when I look at the manual I'd think they are all PMW.
> 
> If the header is not PWM but voltage control I'd just go with normal 3 pin fan splitters and find another way of doing it over the motherboard, or would you have any better suggestions? I'm aiming to run my fans at very low speeds.
> 
> Hope this is not


nope, but the aquaero 6xt is epic, and 4 pwm channels !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> If I ram 6 dimms into this board, will quad-channel work?


you would want tri chan i think


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hello All
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I having some problems with my brand new Asus Rampage IV black edition :/
> 
> here is the issue
> 
> Got the newest Bios update
> 
> Simple. I cant get my memory up and running at XMP profiles nomatter what i do :O
> 
> The memory is G-skill TridentX 2400Mhz 10-12-12-31 1.65v
> tryed Auto settings and manual settings, it wont let me do it,
> 
> ones i tryed 10-13-13-32 1.65V
> It was able to start but it crashed after a little time running.
> 
> Memory works perfectly With my MSI BigBang Xpower II on XMP 10-12-12-31 1.65V
> never Crashes?
> 
> im lost dont know that to do here.
> What the H. . . is the issue here?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plzz Respond guys <3


Change it to 11-12-12-28 @1.65

Set your Dram advanced to 120-130%
Change VSAA to 130%

I'll get you some pics tonight, but if yours is a 64gb kit then it Should run, you're just missing a few settings.

Set your VSAA underneath your CPU settings to Auto then reboot. You were on board w/ your previous settings just setting the CAS to 10 won't be enough you have to bump it to 11 minimum. I'm having the same issues, though I'm now RMA'ing with G Skill.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> hehe this is G-skill memory and it dosent work :/


I hear you and the XMP should take off unless using 2 kits apparently. If its 1x 64gb kit then there shouldn't be a reason other that incompatibility.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Right, I don't know what difference it makes but G.skill suggest TridentX for the 1155 socket Z boards not the 2011 socket X79. I myself am not a memory guru but I guess I'll take there word for it, in the past I've always used corsair and they don't ever suggest a certain chipset.


Yeah a GSkill rep told me they would be recommended for the Black edition before it came out, but looks like it was a lie.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> So what are you saying?
> 
> that i have to buy some new memory?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for god sake! i just board these ones???


Yeah make sure you email G Skill about it so they know, looks like they'll do an RMA.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> For the Trident X to work on RIVE/R4BE you'll need to enter the secondary timings manually.
> The XMP profile on Trident X is 1.3, while on ripjaws it's 1.2.
> I'm not sure on the BE or with newest Ivy-E bios for RIVE, but for me, the secondary timings were set for the default 1066Mhz and putting XMP wouldn't boot at all until B Negative told me to look at the secondary timings.
> 
> 
> 
> If those screen can help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2x8Go Trident X 10-12-12-32-2T


Helps if you post the bios settings so it's easier to tell for him where to go set them, as I wouldn't trust setting anything using the windows software.

@Derek

The most annoying thing that people will notice about this board, is that Auto is more of a placeholder for stock while you honestly have to set most things manually to get quality results. I'm not sure what Asus was thinking when they made this as it seems the completely ditched their previous methods and wanted this to be unique. Took me about a week of fiddling with it to get full stable results, and now I"m down to just having RAM issues , that + the board is brittle as hell.


----------



## NEOAethyr

I got mine working at full mem bandwith finally
It's a tricky one too, I can re-load a good cmos profile after that and it still has crap bandwith.
But if I load a diff profile 1st, then my new one (the 65k writes...), then it seems it has all the bandwith.
I think it ends up being the cpu multi being to high, screwing up semi permanently, and even if you go back down the speed is bad.
But if you are able to re-init the board correctly it'll have all it's bandwith.
It has absolutely nothing todo with the timings in the bios either I found out.

I believe it's some sort of tdp load % thing that needs set or a voltage or pwm freq, not sure yet.
I'll figure it out later on.

I took some screens of a good config but not of a full bad config with the same settings.
I gotta eat and so on so maybe I can post some later.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Ok. Seriously had it with the amount of BSODS with IRQL NLOE and game crashes. We've all been duped into thinking this is a great board. What good is a board if the software is rubbish. I still say Asus have lost the guy who made all the great Bios' for the boards and now we are left with nothing more then 2nd rate rubbish. seriously considering just selling up and starting Ham Radio again


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I took some screens of a good config but not of a full bad config with the same settings.
> I gotta eat and so on so maybe I can post some later.


Eating is overrated! No but seriously, I'm interested to see those screens when you get a chance. I just installed blocks on this board, and now I'm questioning my $500 purchase. My experience with the Crosshair IV formula was a good one (still running strong), but all of these issues with the R4BE are making me consider returning or selling it. Anybody know when the last bios update was?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Helps if you post the bios settings so it's easier to tell for him where to go set them, as I wouldn't trust setting anything using the windows software.


I doubt the RIVE bios look alike the BE one but here it is.


----------



## cadaveca

twr should be 16.

twrd to 10.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Ok. Seriously had it with the amount of BSODS with IRQL NLOE and game crashes. We've all been duped into thinking this is a great board. What good is a board if the software is rubbish. I still say Asus have lost the guy who made all the great Bios' for the boards and now we are left with nothing more then 2nd rate rubbish. seriously considering just selling up and starting Ham Radio again


Crap CPU = crap experience. It's not the board.

Or, rather, it IS the board, but it lets the faults of all shine through.

reboot, BSOD, all other issues...drivers or memory/CPU. I wish it wasn't that way, so I could blame ASUS, but I cannot.

I mean, it's no sweat off my back...I got tonnes of boards to choose from.

keep in mind all these CPUs either have cores and PCIe/VT disabled. Desktop chips don't get 8-core chips.

My poopy chip can barely do 4.3 GHz, no matter what. It hates 100 blck. 125 BLCK, and lower multis...it is fine, but still no more than 4.3. That's still 600 MHz over stock..do keep in mind 4960X is 3700 MHz only on all cores. 4930K..is 3600 MHz, right? What's the 4820K clocked at? Maybe I'll pick one up.


----------



## WCRF_1710

This bug is killing me, unbelievable for a US$ 500 mobo!



Start after a BIOS update, sometimes recognizes 16GB quad-channel, but most of time this crazy 12GB triple-channel

Bug is on D1 slot. I think I need a hammer!!!


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> I've been using this board for about 24 hours now and I am thoroughly unimpressed. First off it wouldn't stop shutting down, finally found a fix on ROG forums that had me change some obscure BIOS settings. Then even after doing that I kept finding that it'd shut down every so often, still! Ended up _downclocking_ the 3820 to 32x100... Going on 3 hours of stable. Mind you none of these shutdowns occurred during stress testing of the CPUs. Got a couple of GPUs mining but other than that the CPU is basically never used. I'm not usually one to rant about a product being kind of lame but for being the flagship board in an enthusiast oriented chipset...


I had no issues oc'ing with manual or offset, but strapping 125 was a nightmare. Would not go beyond 37 multi and core clock of 4.676. Regardless of powers savings, c state, or eist. Finally found a post about having to set "per core". It helped , but many other issues. Continued to down clock and show effective core speed correctly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Welcome to the club derick! Strange that it's happening on your sb-e. I must be lucky to not have these issues. Though, iv'e twerked pretty much every possible setting. Running my 3930k @ 4.9 atm @ 1.42
> 
> saddest part about all of this. Go drop a complaint about the issues on the ROG forums... see what happens... Well, derick may get different treatment from Raja's minions, but yeaaaah...


Yrah, first reply to the thread was raja saying R4BE was designed for IB-E not SB-E and blew it off.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> For the downclocking with SB-E on this board, you need to do this fix:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't like the sound thumping upon start up and the vdroop with this board. Everything else is swell.


Thank you, +rep. Have to give that a try.


----------



## enilsen16

Can someone please post a pic of GPU-Z with a 4930K? GPU-Z for me is only recognizing my 770s as PCI E 2.0 instead of 3.0. Anyone experiencing anything similar?


----------



## hotrod717




----------



## enilsen16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*


Ugh I wonder what it is....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enilsen16*
> 
> Can someone please post a pic of GPU-Z with a 4930K? GPU-Z for me is only recognizing my 770s as PCI E 2.0 instead of 3.0. Anyone experiencing anything similar?


Are you on sandy-bridge?

sounds like you need to run this

http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2148/NVIDIA_GeForce_Kepler_PCIe_3.0_mode-enabling_patch_for_Sandy_Bridge-E_systems.html

run it, open it, restart PC. should have 3.0.


----------



## Elvandar




----------



## enilsen16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Are you on sandy-bridge?
> 
> sounds like you need to run this
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2148/NVIDIA_GeForce_Kepler_PCIe_3.0_mode-enabling_patch_for_Sandy_Bridge-E_systems.html
> 
> run it, open it, restart PC. should have 3.0.




Should I still try running it? Im on Ivy E....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enilsen16*
> 
> 
> 
> Should I still try running it? Im on Ivy E....


Yes.

Ivy-E should have native support, but I believe it's the driver which decides if it will run in 2.0 or 3.0.

Download it>>install it>>restart system>>check

The install will literally take .5 seconds. You will see a command prompt window open and close in the blink of an eye.


----------



## enilsen16

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> Ivy-E should have native support, but I believe it's the driver which decides if it will run in 2.0 or 3.0.
> 
> Download it>>install it>>restart system>>check
> 
> The install will literally take .5 seconds. You will see a command prompt window open and close in the blink of an eye.


Just did it.



Nothing changed....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> name="enilsen16" url="/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/5150_50#post_21726519"]


Just did it.



Nothing changed.... [/quote]










I would...

A.) Run DDU driver uninstaller in safe mode.

B.) check to make sure you have your chipset drivers installed & updated.


----------



## enilsen16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just did it.
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing changed....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would...
> 
> A.) Run DDU driver uninstaller in safe mode.
> 
> B.) check to make sure you have your chipset drivers installed & updated.


My chipset driver 9.3.2.1015.

Ill run the DDU driver uninstaller later today.


----------



## Kimir

Have you try to give some load on the card to see it switch to 3.0?
Just run the GPU-z rendering to do so and check again.
Might also look in the bios to make sure it's enable on 3.0.


----------



## skupples

it's going to show "pci-e 3.0 16x @ 16x x.x" or "pci-e 1.1 16x @ 16x x.x"

it should never default to 2.0, just 3.0 or 1.1.


----------



## USFORCES

Mine is showing up as 3.0 and I never installed any driver plus I'm still using the original Asus BIOS.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Mine is showing up as 3.0 and I never installed any driver plus I'm still using the original Asus BIOS.


I'm also using the original BIOS. I have the GTX Titan. My is 1.1 or 3.0 depending on if the GPU has any load on it. Even if I'm watching a movie, its 1.1. If I turn on folding, its 3.0. Its possible he just hasn't revved his GPU up yet.







Hold your mouse pointer over the Bus Interface to see what you get in the bubble.


----------



## Arm3nian

The same spec Trident X runs faster than a Ripjaw Z because of the advanced timings (all the of the timings no one messes with, unless you have nothing to do)
Trident X was originally "made" for 1155 because the 4-core Ivy's had a strong IMC. The Ripjaws Z were made for SB-E because the IMC was weaker. Since Ivy-E has a very strong IMC, Trident X is the way to go for the most performance.

Here is my kit, and the best bang for the buck imo in the manual as supported memory:

2400mhz 16GB (4x4) 9-11-11-31-2


Here it is in my system running XMP profile 1, with a command rate of 1 as opposed to 2:

Everything in the bios is set to auto, no problems for me


Increase the voltage or loosen the CL to 10 and you can be running 2600+ for ~$200


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> The same spec Trident X runs faster than a Ripjaw Z because of the advanced timings (all the of the timings no one messes with, unless you have nothing to do)
> Trident X was originally "made" for 1155 because the 4-core Ivy's had a strong IMC. The Ripjaws Z were made for SB-E because the IMC was weaker. Since Ivy-E has a very strong IMC, Trident X is the way to go for the most performance.
> 
> Here is my kit, and the best bang for the buck imo in the manual as supported memory:
> 
> 2400mhz 16GB (4x4) 9-11-11-31-2
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is in my system running XMP profile 1, with a command rate of 1 as opposed to 2:
> 
> Everything in the bios is set to auto, no problems for me
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Increase the voltage or loosen the CL to 10 and you can be running 2600+ for ~$200


Nice speed and timings on the memory but why only 16gb? this is OCN after all







No really why only 16GB are you just a gamer or what?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Nice speed and timings on the memory but why only 16gb? this is OCN after all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No really why only 16GB are you just a gamer or what?


Well the more ram you run the less chance you have of getting a higher speed and speed > capacity for me.
I don't really see the point in more than 16gb. Encoding bluray using handbrake uses around 3gb. I also don't see the point of a ramdisk, because everything that needs to be loaded into ram for an application already is, because that is the point of ram. I guess a ramdisk can be useful if you never turn off your computer and use only a few applications, but a 500mbps ssd is enough for pretty much anything.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Well the more ram you run the less chance you have of getting a higher speed and speed > capacity for me.
> I don't really see the point in more than 16gb. Encoding bluray using handbrake uses around 3gb. I also don't see the point of a ramdisk, because everything that needs to be loaded into ram for an application already is, because that is the point of ram. I guess a ramdisk can be useful if you never turn off your computer and use only a few applications, but a 500mbps ssd is enough for pretty much anything.


Cant disagree with any of that as it fits your needs. but I am going to be using adobe photo and video editing software and they will use more than other applications. Also another thing that is good about a ram disk is you can load the photo's and videos' you are working with into it and then have superfast access to it and this will decrease rendering times.

although you have a misconception about the ram disk and ram. if you load you games into it or even frequently used programs then it is a lot faster as only what you need at a time is loaded into ram. especially with games and high end editing software...

but always good to see another point of view.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Cant disagree with any of that as it fits your needs. but I am going to be using adobe photo and video editing software and they will use more than other applications. Also another thing that is good about a ram disk is you can load the photo's and videos' you are working with into it and then have superfast access to it and this will decrease rendering times.
> 
> although you have a misconception about the ram disk and ram. if you load you games into it or even frequently used programs then it is a lot faster as only what you need at a time is loaded into ram. especially with games and high end editing software...
> 
> but always good to see another point of view.


Yeah I can see how it would be handy in video editing, but that's if you're going to be doing a lot of editing on it, because transferring the video from the ssd/hdd to the ram disk can take quite a while depending on the file size, sometimes more than the rendering wait from reading off an ssd. Seems pointless for photos however. As for most multiplayer games you're going to be waiting on everyone else to load anyway, and for single player games the load is basically instant from an ssd.


----------



## enilsen16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Have you try to give some load on the card to see it switch to 3.0?
> Just run the GPU-z rendering to do so and check again.
> Might also look in the bios to make sure it's enable on 3.0.


It says that PCI E 2.0 X 16 is the Max, its enabled in the bios. Im going to try reinstalling the 0507 bios and that DDU uninstaller. To see if that changes anything.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Yeah I can see how it would be handy in video editing, but that's if you're going to be doing a lot of editing on it, because transferring the video from the ssd/hdd to the ram disk can take quite a while depending on the file size, sometimes more than the rendering wait from reading off an ssd. Seems pointless for photos however. As for most multiplayer games you're going to be waiting on everyone else to load anyway, and for single player games the load is basically instant from an ssd.


Yeah you got a point there about it and not saying it is the best thing to do.. But it does add some speed to doing things, and I will transfer the viedo's to the Ram disk and go smoke while it does this.. LOL then I start editing...

I know actually it is over kill and all I am actually saving is seconds but *I LIKE IT* lol its all fun and games!!!!!


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enilsen16*
> 
> It says that PCI E 2.0 X 16 is the Max, its enabled in the bios. Im going to try reinstalling the 0507 bios and that DDU uninstaller. To see if that changes anything.


I notice by your rigbuilder you got 2 Nvidia graphic cards. Do you have them in the correct slots for 2 cards? Have you tried to run them separately?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yeah you got a point there about it and not saying it is the best thing to do.. But it does add some speed to doing things, and I will transfer the viedo's to the Ram disk and go smoke while it does this.. LOL then I start editing...
> 
> I know actually it is over kill and all I am actually saving is seconds but *I LIKE IT* lol its all fun and games!!!!!


Have to agree with the fun part. What kind of seq reads and writes do you get on your ram?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Have to agree with the fun part. What kind of seq reads and writes do you get on your ram?


I will have to post that a little later, I just set it up one time on the bench and played with it for a day so I did not get any of this information I hope to be able to post it all soon. I have a RIVE and not the BE yet














but I will let you know for sure and put it in my build log.. it was very very fast is all i remember


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I will have to post that a little later, I just set it up one time on the bench and played with it for a day so I did not get any of this information I hope to be able to post it all soon. I have a RIVE and not the BE yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I will let you know for sure and put it in my build log.. it was very very fast is all i remember


With crystal disk mark I'm getting about 6.4GBps reads and 9.3GBps writes.

I'm using imdisk as the ramdisk program because it is open source / free.
Download: http://www.ltr-data.se/opencode.html/#ImDisk
Guide: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=356046


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> With crystal disk mark I'm getting about 6.4GBps reads and 9.3GBps writes.
> 
> I'm using imdisk as the ramdisk program because it is open source / free.
> Download: http://www.ltr-data.se/opencode.html/#ImDisk
> Guide: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=356046


thanks for this info. But I purchased the Ramdisk Enterprise edition from Raxco so I guess I have to use it..


----------



## LunaP

Alright guys need your opinions.

Got a response back from G Skill they're willing to swap out my 2400 32gb kits for 1x 64gb kit. Here's what they said. Should I go for that or just stick w/ C10 and go 64gb ? I'm not doing benchmarks or anything.

"
The only CL9 kit we have available runs at 2133Mhz. The model # is F3-2133C9Q2-64GZH. Please advise if you are interested in making the swap.
"


----------



## BaldGuy

Awesome information. I'm using the Asus Ramdisk that came with the board, but will have to check this open source solution out.

I got a situation on RAMDISK that I wanted to ask the board about. If my CPU is busy folding (CPU is nearly maxed out), I get 7.2GBps read and 5.9GBps write using crystal disk. However, If my CPU is idle, I only get 2.7GBps read and 2.5GBps write. This is at 1333 RAM.

At first, I thought the difference in results was due to overclocking to 2400 vs 1333. However, I learned that didn't change the numbers too much, and the difference was if my CPU was busy or not.

Obviously, I want the higher RAM Disk speed if the CPU is busy or not. Any thoughts on this?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I notice by your rigbuilder you got 2 Nvidia graphic cards. Do you have them in the correct slots for 2 cards? Have you tried to run them separately?


The slots are only going to affect the the second part of the read out... As in, it should always read (under load) "pci-e 3.0 x16 @ 16x 3.0" if it's in an 8x only slot it would read "pci-e 3.0 x16 @ 8x 3.0"

his card should never read "pci-e 2.0 16x" even when it's idling. it's either going to read "pci-e 3.0 16x" or pci-e 1.1 16x" assuming he actually gets it to function properly.

I guess part of the question would be does 770 classi support 3.0? you would think so... The 480 i'm using in my 3570k test bed supports 3.0


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Alright guys need your opinions.
> 
> Got a response back from G Skill they're willing to swap out my 2400 32gb kits for 1x 64gb kit. Here's what they said. Should I go for that or just stick w/ C10 and go 64gb ? I'm not doing benchmarks or anything.
> 
> "
> The only CL9 kit we have available runs at 2133Mhz. The model # is F3-2133C9Q2-64GZH. Please advise if you are interested in making the swap.
> "


Not clear what your options are but the cl9 2133 kit is probably the cas 10 2400mhz kit downclocked, not the good ic's that come with the 2400mhz cas 9 kit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Awesome information. I'm using the Asus Ramdisk that came with the board, but will have to check this open source solution out.
> 
> I got a situation on RAMDISK that I wanted to ask the board about. If my CPU is busy folding (CPU is nearly maxed out), I get 7.2GBps read and 5.9GBps write using crystal disk. However, If my CPU is idle, I only get 2.7GBps read and 2.5GBps write. This is at 1333 RAM.
> 
> At first, I thought the difference in results was due to overclocking to 2400 vs 1333. However, I learned that didn't change the numbers too much, and the difference was if my CPU was busy or not.
> 
> Obviously, I want the higher RAM Disk speed if the CPU is busy or not. Any thoughts on this?


Crystal disk mark is more of a benchmark as opposed to actual reads and writes. Try your test with aida 64, which gives the correct actual read and writes. My reads with Disk mark is 6.3GBps and is 64GBps with aida.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I'm also using the original BIOS. I have the GTX Titan. My is 1.1 or 3.0 depending on if the GPU has any load on it. Even if I'm watching a movie, its 1.1. If I turn on folding, its 3.0. Its possible he just hasn't revved his GPU up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold your mouse pointer over the Bus Interface to see what you get in the bubble.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


When I first took the screen shot both were at 3.0 then a second later one changed to 1.1.


----------



## mistacheese

I seem to have purchased the wrong parallel block for my graphics cards. I have the RIVBE and 2 780 Ti Classy's, what is the correct motherboard spacing for the pci lanes, or what is the correct block for my card spacing (ideally from EK as that's the blocks I've installed)?

I am correct that they should go in the 1st and 3rd slots on this mobo, right?

Cheese


----------



## enilsen16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The slots are only going to affect the the second part of the read out... As in, it should always read (under load) "pci-e 3.0 x16 @ 16x 3.0" if it's in an 8x only slot it would read "pci-e 3.0 x16 @ 8x 3.0"
> 
> his card should never read "pci-e 2.0 16x" even when it's idling. it's either going to read "pci-e 3.0 16x" or pci-e 1.1 16x" assuming he actually gets it to function properly.
> 
> I guess part of the question would be does 770 classi support 3.0? you would think so... The 480 i'm using in my 3570k test bed supports 3.0


They do. They are sitting in the first and third PCI slots. Which to my knowledge are the correct slots.

I sent an email to EVGA, hoping that maybe i can get a response and shed some light on the issue. They reported PCI E 3.0 with my 3770K so theres a bug somewhere. Im just going to have to slowly troubleshoot it to find it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enilsen16*
> 
> They do. They are sitting in the first and third PCI slots. Which to my knowledge are the correct slots.
> 
> I sent an email to EVGA, hoping that maybe i can get a response and shed some light on the issue. They reported PCI E 3.0 with my 3770K so theres a bug somewhere. Im just going to have to slowly troubleshoot it to find it.


Flush GPU drivers, flush chipset firmware, flush the motherboard bios. (make sure you have the 64 bit bios) if those things don't work, you may need to reformat.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Well the more ram you run the less chance you have of getting a higher speed and speed > capacity for me.
> I don't really see the point in more than 16gb. Encoding bluray using handbrake uses around 3gb. I also don't see the point of a ramdisk, because everything that needs to be loaded into ram for an application already is, because that is the point of ram. I guess a ramdisk can be useful if you never turn off your computer and use only a few applications, but a 500mbps ssd is enough for pretty much anything.


The new Asus Ramdisk doesn't take time to load and unload anymore also it doesn't affect startup and shut downs either like the older Ramdisk did. But yeah 16gb is plenty, also when I overclock over 4.9GHz I have to take 32gb out just because it easier to get 5GHz stable on 32gb.

I don't know what BF4 uses but BF3 does go over 6gb 10% of 64gb as you can see in the screen shot. Also seems like the more you have the more it uses, before when I had less ram it used less.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> The new Asus Ramdisk doesn't take time to load and unload anymore also it doesn't affect startup and shut downs either like the older Ramdisk did. But yeah 16gb is plenty, also when I overclock over 4.9GHz I have to take 32gb out just because it easier to get 5GHz stable on 32gb.
> 
> I don't know what BF4 uses but BF3 does go over 6gb 10% of 64gb as you can see in the screen shot. Also seems like the more you have the more it uses, before when I had less ram it used less.


Imdisk doesn't take time to load and unload either but you still need to transfer whatever you're putting on the ramdisk everytime you restart the computer, doesn't take that long though if you have a fast ssd. Seems like system memory is just like vram, the more you have the more it uses, even though you don't "need it". I haven't seen BF4 use more than 2GB.

BTW, where can I get the Asus Ram disk? I couldn't find it in the downloads for the RIVBE.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Imdisk doesn't take time to load and unload either but you still need to transfer whatever you're putting on the ramdisk everytime you restart the computer, doesn't take that long though if you have a fast ssd. Seems like system memory is just like vram, the more you have the more it uses, even though you don't "need it". I haven't seen BF4 use more than 2GB.
> 
> BTW, where can I get the Asus Ram disk? I couldn't find it in the downloads for the RIVBE.


Comes on the disk that came with your board, there are a few reviews on you tube explaining how the new ROG ramdisk works. I'm pretty sure you can also download it off there site.

Edit, I just loaded up BF4 and it does use more than BF3.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Comes on the disk that came with your board, there are a few reviews on you tube explaining how the new ROG ramdisk works. I'm pretty sure you can also download it off there site.


I don't have an optical drive and I can't find it online lol.


----------



## USFORCES

Your right they have every utility for download at there site except ROG ramdisk seems they conveniently left it out, guess they don't want to just give that one away for free, lol


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Your right they have every utility for download at there site except ROG ramdisk seems they conveniently left it out, guess they don't want to just give that one away for free, lol


They should have a serial number or something that comes with the board... maybe they thought an rog board was going into a htpc that would have an optical drive


----------



## enilsen16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Flush GPU drivers, flush chipset firmware, flush the motherboard bios. (make sure you have the 64 bit bios) if those things don't work, you may need to reformat.


You mean just reformat my C Drive? Thats fairly easy to do. I might just do that anyway along with a reinstall of the 507 Mobo Bios....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Your right they have every utility for download at there site except ROG ramdisk seems they conveniently left it out, guess they don't want to just give that one away for free, lol


Why do you run VTT @ 1.8?!


----------



## USFORCES

I don't it's set to auto, why what should I be running it at?


----------



## skupples

if that's the primary VTT it should be below 1.4? I think... Normally VTT & VCCSA are set almost the same.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Your right they have every utility for download at there site except ROG ramdisk seems they conveniently left it out, guess they don't want to just give that one away for free, lol


This is from a post above. This is actually a couple versions newer then what comes with the board. The version I'm using is what came with Board.

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/MAXIMUS-VI-EXTREME/RamDisk_20103.zip


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Not clear what your options are but the cl9 2133 kit is probably the cas 10 2400mhz kit downclocked, not the good ic's that come with the 2400mhz cas 9 kit.
> Crystal disk mark is more of a benchmark as opposed to actual reads and writes. Try your test with aida 64, which gives the correct actual read and writes. My reads with Disk mark is 6.3GBps and is 64GBps with aida.


Theyre offering me a 64gb kit

either 2133 @ cas 9

or c10 2400.

I thought C9 was sammy if not I'll opt for 2400 unless I would benefit from 2133. I stream/broadcast games I play @ high bitrates and play games @ 1440p surround @ max settings + high OC.
Whatever benefits me better is what I'll tell them to send,


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Theyre offering me a 64gb kit
> 
> either 2133 @ cas 9
> 
> or c10 2400.
> 
> I thought C9 was sammy if not I'll opt for 2400 unless I would benefit from 2133. I stream/broadcast games I play @ high bitrates and play games @ 1440p surround @ max settings + high OC.
> Whatever benefits me better is what I'll tell them to send,


to me I would rather have the C10 at 2400 because you can down clock it to C9 at 2133 most likely but may not can upclock the C9 at 2133!!

that is the way I think of it...


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> if that's the primary VTT it should be below 1.4? I think... Normally VTT & VCCSA are set almost the same.


It's right it was just labeled wrong, it's actually PLL 1.80v-1.90v first week I set it up I double checked all the voltages. I'm sure if VTT was running at 1.8v this long it would of been trashed by now I'm thinking it probably wouldn't of even booted at 1.8v or if it did I would of noticed real quick







But thanks for looking out









Fixed,


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Theyre offering me a 64gb kit
> 
> either 2133 @ cas 9
> 
> or c10 2400.
> 
> I thought C9 was sammy if not I'll opt for 2400 unless I would benefit from 2133. I stream/broadcast games I play @ high bitrates and play games @ 1440p surround @ max settings + high OC.
> Whatever benefits me better is what I'll tell them to send,


c10 2400 > c9 2133

Not sure if your imc can handle 64gigs of 2400 though. Also, c9 doesn't mean it is samsung memory, as I said in my previous post it could just be hynix that didn't make 2400 c10/11/12 so they made it 2133 c9.


----------



## skupples

ohhhh, looks so much better!!!! ~1.2 is very common.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ohhhh, looks so much better!!!! ~1.2 is very common.


1.2 has been the number going around, mine is at 1.15. Does increasing it shorten the imc life or something? I'm thinking about just putting it at 1.2 rather than leaving it at auto.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 1.2 has been the number going around, mine is at 1.15. Does increasing it shorten the imc life or something? I'm thinking about just putting it at 1.2 rather than leaving it at auto.


idk, I have mine @ 1.223xxx on the 3930k. I was getting allot of stuttering & lag with alt-tabbed programs. Increasing those two voltages removed the issue.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Not clear what your options are but the cl9 2133 kit is probably the cas 10 2400mhz kit downclocked, not the good ic's that come with the 2400mhz cas 9 kit.
> Crystal disk mark is more of a benchmark as opposed to actual reads and writes. Try your test with aida 64, which gives the correct actual read and writes. My reads with Disk mark is 6.3GBps and is 64GBps with aida.
> 
> 
> 
> Theyre offering me a 64gb kit
> 
> either 2133 @ cas 9
> 
> or c10 2400.
> 
> I thought C9 was sammy if not I'll opt for 2400 unless I would benefit from 2133. I stream/broadcast games I play @ high bitrates and play games @ 1440p surround @ max settings + high OC.
> Whatever benefits me better is what I'll tell them to send,
Click to expand...

there are NO c9 8gb sticks tyhe 4gb sticks came in c9 ( @ 2400 )


----------



## BaldGuy

I think it's very nice of them to trade 2 32 gig kits for a 64 gig one. I don't understand the not available part however.

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16820231523


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I think it's very nice of them to trade 2 32 gig kits for a 64 gig one. I don't understand the not available part however.
> 
> http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16820231523


fwiw, your mobile link doesn't seem to work from my desktop (unless I use 'user agent switcher' to make my browser appear like it's a mobile).
Here's the regular link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231523

IIRC LunaP has TridentX ram, not Ripjaws, so maybe that's why? I dunno.


----------



## rabidz7

If I get four 2x8GB 2400MHz kits, will they XMP as usual?


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> If I get four 2x8GB 2400MHz kits, will they XMP as usual?


Yep thats what i have but see if you can get ones with "2500" in the serial . Samsung Double sided chips will have better clocks


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> If I get four 2x8GB 2400MHz kits, will they XMP as usual?


The more you mix kits, the bigger chance you are going to have issues, even @ rated speeds. The more ram you have, the more of a chance it will become an issue. Having them in serial succession means nothing. 64gb is already hard enough for systems to run, i would bet you run into all sorts of issues.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah if you read the previous posts by LunaP (and for sure he's not the only one here that's ran into the same thing), he ran into many issues trying to get his 2 identical 32GB 2400 G.Skill Trident kits to run at rated speeds. He's now trying to get them replaced with a single 64GB kit because of all the trouble he's been having with them after literally trying everything suggested to get them to work out. I believe the only way he ever got them to work together at all was to downclock them to slower than rated speeds.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah if you read the previous posts by LunaP (and for sure he's not the only one here that's ran into the same thing), he ran into many issues trying to get his 2 identical 32GB 2400 G.Skill Trident kits to run at rated speeds. He's now trying to get them replaced with a single 64GB kit because of all the trouble he's been having with them after literally trying everything suggested to get them to work out. I believe the only way he ever got them to work together at all was to downclock them to slower than rated speeds.


I just pulled up LunaP rigbuilder. I was under the impression he had the G.Skill Z's instead of the Trident. If they are so willing to swap his 2 32's for 1 64 kit he might want to ask them which they would recommend for his Chip and motherboard. I personally find this pretty good of them to do. Makes me glad I choose G.Skill.

Also, I notice he went with the big daddy 4960X. So obviously money isn't as issue, so its a wonder he didn't just buy the 64 kit in the first place. Unless he originally felt 32 was enough and changed his mind. I was tempted to go 32 and 32 later to save money, but read that can cause problems at times (many arguments on this), so decided to bit the bullet and be done with it.

Will be interesting to see if the 64 kit does solve his problems.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> *I just pulled up LunaP rigbuilder. I was under the impression he had the G.Skill Z's instead of the Trident.* If they are so willing to swap his 2 32's for 1 64 kit he might want to ask them which they would recommend for his Chip and motherboard. I personally find this pretty good of them to do. Makes me glad I choose G.Skill.
> 
> Also, I notice he went with the big daddy 4960X. So obviously money isn't as issue, so its a wonder he didn't just buy the 64 kit in the first place. Unless he originally felt 32 was enough and changed his mind. I was tempted to go 32 and 32 later to save money, but read that can cause problems at times (many arguments on this), so decided to bit the bullet and be done with it.
> 
> Will be interesting to see if the 64 kit does solve his problems.


You might be right. I didn't look at his rigbuilder. I was going by what I'd seen in a few posts like this one ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Anyone with a 4960X and or 4930k mind posting your settings for 4.5+?
> 
> *As well as anyone w/ 64gb of Trident X 2400*
> 
> I had to reset since I think I set all the settings incorrectly and would love to see a good baseline config for starters. I don't want to use the profiles since they default to 1.4v automatically.
> 
> Looking to just push around 4.5 for now on the CPU but definitely get my memory @ 2400 or at least 2133 vs 1333.


In any case I'm still saving up for a 64GB G.Skill kit of either 2133 or 2400 Ripjaws Zs. haven't decided yet and am very interested in posts like these to see which might be a better gamble for me. All I'm hoping to get out of them is rated speeds and I really want to play around with the ram disc.

In the meantime I've cannibalized 8GB of 2400 G.Skills from another rig just to be able to fire my board up.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> c10 2400 > c9 2133
> 
> Not sure if your imc can handle 64gigs of 2400 though. Also, c9 doesn't mean it is samsung memory, as I said in my previous post it could just be hynix that didn't make 2400 c10/11/12 so they made it 2133 c9.


Ah good point I'll shoot for the 2400's then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> 1.2 has been the number going around, mine is at 1.15. Does increasing it shorten the imc life or something? I'm thinking about just putting it at 1.2 rather than leaving it at auto.


I run mine at 1.05 and VSAA @ .95 might bump it to 1.05 as well later for some headroom though I've set VSAA to 130% so it has room if needed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there are NO c9 8gb sticks tyhe 4gb sticks came in c9 ( @ 2400 )


I never said there were lol..... but there are 32gb kits 4x8gb that are C9 @ 2400.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I think it's very nice of them to trade 2 32 gig kits for a 64 gig one. I don't understand the not available part however.
> 
> http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16820231523


I never said they weren't available

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I just pulled up LunaP rigbuilder. I was under the impression he had the G.Skill Z's instead of the Trident. If they are so willing to swap his 2 32's for 1 64 kit he might want to ask them which they would recommend for his Chip and motherboard. I personally find this pretty good of them to do. Makes me glad I choose G.Skill.
> 
> Also, I notice he went with the big daddy 4960X. So obviously money isn't as issue, *so its a wonder he didn't just buy the 64 kit in the first place.* Unless he originally felt 32 was enough and changed his mind. I was tempted to go 32 and 32 later to save money, but read that can cause problems at times (many arguments on this), so decided to bit the bullet and be done with it.
> 
> Will be interesting to see if the 64 kit does solve his problems.


Because there was a sale at the time and this was 3 months ago and I bought my first kit for under 270$ which was 32gb, at the time searching around I didn't see the 64gb kit / I believe it was out of stock.

2 months after once the build started I purchased another kit to max it out, because go big or go home







that + 32gb would never be enough for me, since I was maxing out 24gb on my previous rig.


----------



## gdubc

Has anyone tried any Avexir kits in the be? I put in a quote for a custom kit and the price was extremely reasonable.


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there are NO c9 8gb sticks tyhe 4gb sticks came in c9 ( @ 2400 )


Quote:



> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I never said there were lol..... but there are 32gb kits 4x8gb that are C9 @ 2400.


Good luck finding them. AFAICT theyve gone EOL


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Change it to 11-12-12-28 @1.65
> 
> Set your Dram advanced to 120-130%
> Change VSAA to 130%
> 
> I'll get you some pics tonight, but if yours is a 64gb kit then it Should run, you're just missing a few settings.
> 
> Set your VSAA underneath your CPU settings to Auto then reboot. You were on board w/ your previous settings just setting the CAS to 10 won't be enough you have to bump it to 11 minimum. I'm having the same issues, though I'm now RMA'ing with G Skill.
> I hear you and the XMP should take off unless using 2 kits apparently. If its 1x 64gb kit then there shouldn't be a reason other that incompatibility.
> Yeah a GSkill rep told me they would be recommended for the Black edition before it came out, but looks like it was a lie.
> Yeah make sure you email G Skill about it so they know, looks like they'll do an RMA.
> Helps if you post the bios settings so it's easier to tell for him where to go set them, as I wouldn't trust setting anything using the windows software.
> 
> @Derek
> 
> The most annoying thing that people will notice about this board, is that Auto is more of a placeholder for stock while you honestly have to set most things manually to get quality results. I'm not sure what Asus was thinking when they made this as it seems the completely ditched their previous methods and wanted this to be unique. Took me about a week of fiddling with it to get full stable results, and now I"m down to just having RAM issues , that + the board is brittle as hell.


Hey Derek

I am gonna try this out after RMA'ing the motherboard.

bacause i also got some performance issues with my GPU's on this board.

Valley benchmarks scores 4400 With This Asus board

And scores 6035 With my old Msi Bigbag Xpower 2 i dont assuming that correkt?

Regards
Lars


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Change it to 11-12-12-28 @1.65
> 
> Set your Dram advanced to 120-130%
> Change VSAA to 130%
> 
> I'll get you some pics tonight, but if yours is a 64gb kit then it Should run, you're just missing a few settings.
> 
> Set your VSAA underneath your CPU settings to Auto then reboot. You were on board w/ your previous settings just setting the CAS to 10 won't be enough you have to bump it to 11 minimum. I'm having the same issues, though I'm now RMA'ing with G Skill.
> I hear you and the XMP should take off unless using 2 kits apparently. If its 1x 64gb kit then there shouldn't be a reason other that incompatibility.
> Yeah a GSkill rep told me they would be recommended for the Black edition before it came out, but looks like it was a lie.
> Yeah make sure you email G Skill about it so they know, looks like they'll do an RMA.
> Helps if you post the bios settings so it's easier to tell for him where to go set them, as I wouldn't trust setting anything using the windows software.
> 
> @Derek
> 
> The most annoying thing that people will notice about this board, is that Auto is more of a placeholder for stock while you honestly have to set most things manually to get quality results. I'm not sure what Asus was thinking when they made this as it seems the completely ditched their previous methods and wanted this to be unique. Took me about a week of fiddling with it to get full stable results, and now I"m down to just having RAM issues , that + the board is brittle as hell.


And plz upload som pictures so i understand completly


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> And plz upload som pictures so i understand completly


I'm not Derek, also please use the edit button vs multiple posts it helps keep the threads less cluttered.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm not Derek, also please use the edit button vs multiple posts it helps keep the threads less cluttered.


okay sorry.

im new at this forum so dont know all the bottums and stuff here


----------



## WCRF_1710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> This bug is killing me, unbelievable for a US$ 500 mobo!
> 
> 
> 
> Start after a BIOS update, sometimes recognizes 16GB quad-channel, but most of time this crazy 12GB triple-channel
> 
> Bug is on D1 slot. I think I need a hammer!!!


Opinions???


----------



## Kimir

Try Memtest each stick separately in the A1 slot if none is defective then it might be the board (defective slot). Not the first time I've seen such issue (on the RIVE, tho).
When done testing the sticks, you could try to find which slot is bugging you.


----------



## webhito

Hi everyone, I see a couple of old names around this place, had a few issues with a sabertooth board a year or so ago and got help from that section, now I am having issues with this one lol...

Anyways, the board is brand spanking new, I purchased a 3970x with it also as it was cheaper than a 4930k and 3930k. Someone had some stock left over and needed it gone.

Anyways I am not an overclocking type of person, id rather keep them on stock and working as intended ( crazy me ), but I am running into heat issues, pretty much everything is on auto and my temps under prime 95 soar over 70c in just a few seconds, my heatsink is a h100i, with 2 220 fans above it and 2 120 mm fans under with a push pull configuration, I am pretty sure its an autovoltage issue but I can't seem to find the culprit. I have tried moving llc and setting voltage to manual 1.2 won't boot, 1.3 is too hot. Cooler works fine with an 8350 and I have remounted it several times already. Would anyone be kind enough to point me in the right direction as to where I need to start lowering numbers so I can tame this beast?

Thanks a bunch!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> Hi everyone, I see a couple of old names around this place, had a few issues with a sabertooth board a year or so ago and got help from that section, now I am having issues with this one lol...
> 
> Anyways, the board is brand spanking new, I purchased a 3970x with it also as it was cheaper than a 4930k and 3930k. Someone had some stock left over and needed it gone.
> 
> Anyways I am not an overclocking type of person, id rather keep them on stock and working as intended ( crazy me ), but I am running into heat issues, pretty much everything is on auto and my temps under prime 95 soar over 70c in just a few seconds, my heatsink is a h100i, with 2 220 fans above it and 2 120 mm fans under with a push pull configuration, I am pretty sure its an autovoltage issue but I can't seem to find the culprit. I have tried moving llc and setting voltage to manual 1.2 won't boot, 1.3 is too hot. Cooler works fine with an 8350 and I have remounted it several times already. Would anyone be kind enough to point me in the right direction as to where I need to start lowering numbers so I can tame this beast?
> 
> Thanks a bunch!


set CPU multi to "per core"

39 for max multi
38
38
37
37
36

and 1.275V with LLC to high and power to 180%.

Make sure fans are both pointed in the right direction, too, that can easily cause this problem, and I've done it myself...last night.









First airlock got stuck in H80i pump, pump hit 4500 RPM, I was confused...system shutting down....rad cold.

Pull rad out, get it higher than the pump, hear a big "SPLOOSH" as water runs down the tube to the pump/block, fire it back up, it's all good, cooling.

Mount rad back in case, it starts to overheat again, but rad is hot...

huh?

I look at fans...


----------



## JLMS2010

So you guys are "completely comfortable" running 1.4v 24/7? I currently have my 4930K at 4.6GHz @ 1.344v. I'm debating on going up more. I have...

LLC - Extreme
vcore - 1.320 (manual mode)
Multi - 46
XMP Enabled
Everything else default.

You guys have any suggestions for me?


----------



## WCRF_1710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Try Memtest each stick separately in the A1 slot if none is defective then it might be the board (defective slot). Not the first time I've seen such issue (on the RIVE, tho).
> When done testing the sticks, you could try to find which slot is bugging you.


Thank you for the reply. I have found the slot, as I said in my post, it's D1 slot. The sticks are all good (I guess), all of them were working flawless in my previous RIVE.

The weird thing is that the slot sometimes works sometimes not.

RMA will be a PITA, since I live in Brazil and Asus support is too bad here. Well, I will think what I'm going to do.

Thanks again.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> set CPU multi to "per core"
> 
> 39 for max multi
> 38
> 38
> 37
> 37
> 36
> 
> and 1.275V with LLC to high and power to 180%.
> 
> Make sure fans are both pointed in the right direction, too, that can easily cause this problem, and I've done it myself...last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First airlock got stuck in H80i pump, pump hit 4500 RPM, I was confused...system shutting down....rad cold.
> 
> Pull rad out, get it higher than the pump, hear a big "SPLOOSH" as water runs down the tube to the pump/block, fire it back up, it's all good, cooling.
> 
> Mount rad back in case, it starts to overheat again, but rad is hot...
> 
> huh?
> 
> I look at fans...


@cadaveca

Thanks, I will give that a try, however I must ask, this is a 6 core 3970x, max speed should be 4 ghz, does this speed not work on all cores?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> @cadaveca
> 
> Thanks, I will give that a try, however I must ask, this is a 6 core 3970x, max speed should be 4 ghz, does this speed not work on all cores?


LuLz. Just bump each number up one then.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> LuLz. Just bump each number up one then.


Yea, but what I meant was does this cpu not run every core at 4.0 or does that depend on how many cores are under load?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> Yea, but what I meant was does this cpu not run every core at 4.0 or does that depend on how many cores are under load?


nope, stock does NOT run every core @ 4.0, only one. It's like I posted above, but with one higher, I guess, if it is 4.0. Full-core multi is only 1x above non-turbo, which would be 3.6GHz.

http://ark.intel.com/products/70845

Max memory @ "stock" is 1600 MHz, too.

I have 3960X and 4960X, not sure how the multis are different, actually. Different boards use different turbo profiles, but what I posted above is what I saw most commonly with 3960X. I am not sure where 3970X differs, since it's near the same otherwise, but even 3960X is only 3.4 GHz on all cores.


----------



## webhito

@cadaveca awesome, might be the reason it was getting hot, I think I set all the cores to 40.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> Thank you for the reply. I have found the slot, as I said in my post, it's D1 slot. The sticks are all good (I guess), all of them were working flawless in my previous RIVE.
> 
> The weird thing is that the slot sometimes works sometimes not.
> 
> RMA will be a PITA, since I live in Brazil and Asus support is too bad here. Well, I will think what I'm going to do.
> 
> Thanks again.


Oh sorry didn't read the last line.
Yeah well, if any RAM stick is giving the issue in D1, then it's the board. You could inspect if there isn't a bent pin on that slot. I had that on a cheap board and I successfully repaired it with precise tweezers.
Can't you RMA with your reseller instead of Asus if they are that bad there?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh sorry didn't read the last line.
> Yeah well, if any RAM stick is giving the issue in D1, then it's the board. You could inspect if there isn't a bent pin on that slot. I had that on a cheap board and I successfully repaired it with precise tweezers.
> Can't you RMA with your reseller instead of Asus if they are that bad there?


I had the same issue... shut down. reset bios. Unplug the PSU so the board has no power. Pull the sticks. Reinstall the sticks, the memory channel should come back. This happened to me yesterday, swaping the sticks around still showed A1 "abnormal". So I installed a set of 2666 (vs the 2400 that were in) - hello - Channel A was working. reinstalled the 2400 set and everything is back to normal. ( this is still a buggy mobo IMO).


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Mine is showing up as 3.0 and I never installed any driver plus I'm still using the original Asus BIOS.


Same here...


----------



## rabidz7

I can has a RIVBE


----------



## ANDEEZY

I have a question about the sound. What is the best sound I can get from the SupremeFX? I've been using the headphone amp and it sounds great but I'm wondering if the best source would be from optical? I plan ok buying either the Astro A40 or A50.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> I have a question about the sound. What is the best sound I can get from the SupremeFX? I've been using the headphone amp and it sounds great but I'm wondering if the best source would be from optical? I plan ok buying either the Astro A40 or A50.


If you don't have an external dac or amp then you're going to have to use the analog line out for headphones. If you have both then it doesn't matter how good the SupremeFX is because it is going to be bypassed. Astro headsets are extremely overpriced, and "gaming headsets" shouldn't be that expensive to begin with. Get a good pair of headphones and get a desktop mic or a clip on.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh sorry didn't read the last line.
> Yeah well, if any RAM stick is giving the issue in D1, then it's the board. You could inspect if there isn't a bent pin on that slot. I had that on a cheap board and I successfully repaired it with precise tweezers.
> Can't you RMA with your reseller instead of Asus if they are that bad there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same issue... shut down. reset bios. Unplug the PSU so the board has no power. Pull the sticks. Reinstall the sticks, the memory channel should come back. This happened to me yesterday, swaping the sticks around still showed A1 "abnormal". So I installed a set of 2666 (vs the 2400 that were in) - hello - Channel A was working. reinstalled the 2400 set and everything is back to normal. ( this is still a buggy mobo IMO).
Click to expand...

or just debris dust in the board


----------



## yttocstfarc

All this talk about ram and problems has anyone tried this kit? This is the one I've got for my BE just wondering how its been performing. This kit is also on ASUS QVL list.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503


----------



## webhito

Is 68c @ 3.5 ghz under prime ok? Cooled by an h100i with push pull config... Seems a little toasty to me = /.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> Is 68c @ 3.5 ghz under prime ok? Cooled by an h100i with push pull config... Seems a little toasty to me = /.


What is your ambient temperature? It seems a little high.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> What is your ambient temperature? It seems a little high.


25c, air conditioned room.


----------



## kpoeticg

Seems a little toasty to me too, but it's not hot enough to be "BAD"

I'm currently getting my bios tweaked up myself. Right now my rigs only in "Test-Bench Mode" with an XT45 360 hooked up and AP-15's in push. So far i'm at 1.195 Core V, 4.5GHz, 4x8GB Trident-X 2400 @ 2400MHz. Right now i'm about 40 minutes into Prime Blend Test and my CPU's 45C in Aida64. CPU Package is 60C though


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Seems a little toasty to me too, but it's not hot enough to be "BAD"
> 
> I'm currently getting my bios tweaked up myself. Right now my rigs only in "Test-Bench Mode" with an XT45 360 hooked up and AP-15's in push. So far i'm at 1.195 Core V, 4.5GHz, 4x8GB Trident-X 2400 @ 2400MHz. Right now i'm about 40 minutes into Prime Blend Test and my CPU's 45C in Aida64. CPU Package is 60C though


Those are some really good temps, can't wait to get my custom loop set up, hopefully I can tame this monster once and for all.


----------



## kpoeticg

It's still too early to tell how good my silicon is. I'm still a n00b with anything BIOS related. This is a screenshot from last night when i found my low voltage at 4.3GHz 2400MHz



How long do most people run Prime95 Blend in between frequency/core adjustments?


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> 25c, air conditioned room.


Yeah, they seem a little high, but not horrible.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's still too early to tell how good my silicon is. I'm still a n00b with anything BIOS related. This is a screenshot from last night when i found my low voltage at 4.3GHz 2400MHz
> 
> How long do most people run Prime95 Blend in between frequency/core adjustments?


Wow, just realized you were ocd to 4.5 lol, those are some awesome temps =).

@JLMS2010 Thanks, glad to know I am not pushing it too much.


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx =)

I'm really hoping this is a good chip. Right now i only have my CPU under water and a single 360 hooked up. My build still has a very long way to go

Edit: Here's a new screenshot i just took. It's about an hour and a half into Prime95 Blend



I have my Core V set to 1.195 even though CPUID shows 1.216


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Thanx =)
> 
> I'm really hoping this is a good chip. Right now i only have my CPU under water and a single 360 hooked up. My build still has a very long way to go
> 
> Edit: Here's a new screenshot i just took. It's about an hour and a half into Prime95 Blend
> 
> 
> 
> I have my Core V set to 1.195 even though CPUID shows 1.216


which monitoring software is this?


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I have my Core V set to 1.195 even though CPUID shows 1.216


Are you using load line calibration?


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Couldn't agree more google.



Edit. Ok seriously wth. Msi not happy again....


----------



## WCRF_1710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh sorry didn't read the last line.
> Yeah well, if any RAM stick is giving the issue in D1, then it's the board. You could inspect if there isn't a bent pin on that slot. I had that on a cheap board and I successfully repaired it with precise tweezers.
> Can't you RMA with your reseller instead of Asus if they are that bad there?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I had the same issue... shut down. reset bios. Unplug the PSU so the board has no power. Pull the sticks. Reinstall the sticks, the memory channel should come back. This happened to me yesterday, swaping the sticks around still showed A1 "abnormal". So I installed a set of 2666 (vs the 2400 that were in) - hello - Channel A was working. reinstalled the 2400 set and everything is back to normal. ( this is still a buggy mobo IMO).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or just debris dust in the board


I pulled out the board to install the EK block, then I realized that there was dust in D1 slot, I cleaned it and the D1 is now back to life....problem is: now, D1 is the only one working, all the others are "abnormal".

I will try to swap the sticks with PSU unplugged, I was not doing that way.

Thank you all for the replies.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> the board is brittle as hell.


What did you destroy?


----------



## rabidz7

Is it needed to shut off the PSU before swapping components?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Is it needed to shut off the PSU before swapping components?


Yes. ESPECIALLY RAM and CPU. GFX card kinda survives. SATA drives could have hotplugs thus they are designed for removal from fully powered board and shuting down PSU is unnecessary.


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Yes. ESPECIALLY RAM and CPU. GFX card kinda survives. SATA drives could have hotplugs thus they are designed for removal from fully powered board and shuting down PSU is unnecessary.


I thought if the system was shut down, things could be swapped.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> I thought if the system was shut down, things could be swapped.


the board still has power to it and those components have power on them.. are you trying to destroy your parts??


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> the board still has power to it and those components have power on them.. are you trying to destroy your parts??


Whoa! I've done it many times. Good info to know. Thanks.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Whoa! I've done it many times. Good info to know. Thanks.


well you have been lucky then


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Seems a little toasty to me too, but it's not hot enough to be "BAD"
> 
> I'm currently getting my bios tweaked up myself. Right now my rigs only in "Test-Bench Mode" with an XT45 360 hooked up and AP-15's in push. So far i'm at 1.195 Core V, 4.5GHz, 4x8GB Trident-X 2400 @ 2400MHz. Right now i'm about 40 minutes into Prime Blend Test and my CPU's 45C in Aida64. CPU Package is 60C though


Looks like you have a good chip there.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> which monitoring software is this?


aquacomputer. you need an aquaero or a MK4 tower. Great stuff!

like so:


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> which monitoring software is this?
> 
> 
> 
> aquacomputer. you need an aquaero or a MK4 tower. Great stuff!
> 
> like so:
Click to expand...

Well it looks like you have helped me find my next purchase lol


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Well it looks like you have helped me find my next purchase lol










it really is top-drawer kit. I run a GiGant on one rig, and a 720Mk4 on another. With koolance QDCs, they are fairly portable between cooling jobs.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> which monitoring software is this?


That was my Aquasuite overview page set to desktop mode in the background. And CPUID and Aida64 on the screen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Are you using load line calibration?


No i'm really a n00b with bios tweaking. Up until now i've only set my trident-x xmp profile, then upped my frequency and vcore slowly with alot of prime95 tests in between.

I thought i just had my system stable at 4.6 with 1.235 vcore. I ran prime blend for a few hours str8, then ran a few custom tests with no issues. Then my aquasuite and aida64 gave me a few .dll errors with windows. So i just went into bios and upped the vcore one more notch along with the vccsa and 2nd vttcpu. That was my first time adjusting anything else though.

What does load line calibration help with? I could definitely use some bios tweaking tips =)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> I have a question about the sound. What is the best sound I can get from the SupremeFX? I've been using the headphone amp and it sounds great but I'm wondering if the best source would be from optical? I plan ok buying either the Astro A40 or A50.


Using the optical out is meant to send it to either another DAC as it bypasses the encoder and or onboard DAC (if its a dedicated sound card and not onboard) and sends the signal out to process elsewhere, which = great for home theatre systems etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> If you don't have an external dac or amp then you're going to have to use the analog line out for headphones. If you have both then it doesn't matter how good the SupremeFX is because it is going to be bypassed. Astro headsets are extremely overpriced, and "gaming headsets" shouldn't be that expensive to begin with. Get a good pair of headphones and get a desktop mic or a clip on.


Agreed, I used to be on the whole gaming headphone hype but after taking a lil time to get savy on the workings of headphones and such I learned that all gaming headphones are overpriced 20$ headphones with some included power adapter that has 1 equalizer setting.

If you look at any of them they're all (about 90% of them ) rated @ about the same ratings.

Take a gander over to the audio section or Head-fi forums and you'll be surprised, I ended up going with a pair of 150$ headphones @ 250ohms which blow away any 300-400$ pair of gaming headphones available.

Depending on what you like I'd highly recommend against astro and checking on things such as Bayerdynamics ( DT 880 or DT 990 pros ) they range from 150-200 on Amazon, that or you can go Sennheizers and up or AKG 712's etc. Each will give you an immense sounstage and are half open/full open compared to closed sets like the crap that most gaming headphone companies put out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> What did you destroy?


Everything !

Anyways G SKill wrote back and recommends to me I swap my 2x 32gb 2400 kits for these
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G Skill rep*
> F3-2133C9Q2-64GZH will get the job done.


Though I'm still leaning towards Trident X 2400's @ 64gb but the C10's

*Looks @ Kpoeticg's avatar*

o3o when'd you start hormones? Lookin good


----------



## Ajay57

I have a full Quad kit of those Ram Running in my Black Edition right now, they are really good. Been able to get my whole set much more stable which has allowed me to lower my Vcore and still pass my tests here. I would fully recommend buying this quad set of ram!!
















1, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=6146846&SID=11f7j3y88fuve

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I have a full Quad kit of those Ram Running in my Black Edition right now, they are really good. Been able to get my whole set much more stable which has allowed me to lower my Vcore and still pas my tests here. I would fully recommend buying this quad set of ram!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=6146846&SID=11f7j3y88fuve
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


only 16 gb.. what's the fun in that??


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Using the optical out is meant to send it to either another DAC as it bypasses the encoder and or onboard DAC (if its a dedicated sound card and not onboard) and sends the signal out to process elsewhere, which = great for home theatre systems etc.
> Agreed, I used to be on the whole gaming headphone hype but after taking a lil time to get savy on the workings of headphones and such I learned that all gaming headphones are overpriced 20$ headphones with some included power adapter that has 1 equalizer setting.
> 
> If you look at any of them they're all (about 90% of them ) rated @ about the same ratings.
> 
> Take a gander over to the audio section or Head-fi forums and you'll be surprised, I ended up going with a pair of 150$ headphones @ 250ohms which blow away any 300-400$ pair of gaming headphones available.
> 
> Depending on what you like I'd highly recommend against astro and checking on things such as Bayerdynamics ( DT 880 or DT 990 pros ) they range from 150-200 on Amazon, that or you can go Sennheizers and up or AKG 712's etc. Each will give you an immense sounstage and are half open/full open compared to closed sets like the crap that most gaming headphone companies put out.
> Everything !
> 
> Anyways G SKill wrote back and recommends to me I swap my 2x 32gb 2400 kits for these
> Though I'm still leaning towards Trident X 2400's @ 64gb but the C10's
> 
> *Looks @ Kpoeticg's avatar*
> 
> o3o when'd you start hormones? Lookin good


Make sure to avoid serials with 164 and 1500 in them and go for "2500" double sided samsung chips. 1500 is hynix and 164 is some other cheap IC make.


----------



## seross69

alright now all the rampage black owners need to get the titan black now!!!!


----------



## Dreamxtreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> alright now all the rampage black owners need to get the titan black now!!!!


And buy a crippled card courtesy of Nvidia Greenlight ? I dont think so. My Titans are faster


----------



## Ajay57

If you benching on the HWbot you do not need more than 16 GB because it just overloads the IMC and causes more problems plus heat. So that is why i chose to use 16 GB.

Main point is that those with this New Mobo who are having stability problems. This would go a long way and be a lot of help to those who are looking to buy or chose the right Ram to begin with!!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I have a full Quad kit of those Ram Running in my Black Edition right now, they are really good. Been able to get my whole set much more stable which has allowed me to lower my Vcore and still pass my tests here. I would fully recommend buying this quad set of ram!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=6146846&SID=11f7j3y88fuve
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


I'm running the same except the 2666 kit. great ram!

if you can find *these* - they are super @ 2400c9


----------



## Ajay57

Thanks for the reply as for the Ram here i am hoping to OC that to 2400Mhz its a little gain, but when competing on the HWbot every bit helps with your Score as they say.









There seems to more owners of the same motherboard i have than i was led to believe.









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Anyways G SKill wrote back and recommends to me I swap my 2x 32gb 2400 kits for these
> Though I'm still leaning towards Trident X 2400's @ 64gb but the C10's


I know by reading the G Skill website, for our processor and MoBo, G Skill would sooner see you get the Z's instead of the Trident X.

To me that's a steal and very nice of them to do. The Z's work great and by the reviews (my direct experience added) work great in our system.
What do you feel the Trident will give you that the Z's can't?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamxtreme*
> 
> Make sure to avoid serials with 164 and 1500 in them and go for "2500" double sided samsung chips. 1500 is hynix and 164 is some other cheap IC make.


How do I go about doing that since they're sending me new RAM?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> I know by reading the G Skill website, for our processor and MoBo, G Skill would sooner see you get the Z's instead of the Trident X.
> 
> To me that's a steal and very nice of them to do. The Z's work great and by the reviews (my direct experience added) work great in our system.
> What do you feel the Trident will give you that the Z's can't?


I don't know other than 2400 by default which is why I"m asking. That + there are mentions that the X series is higher quality.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> How do I go about doing that since they're sending me new RAM?
> I don't know other than 2400 by default which is why I"m asking. That + there are mentions that the X series is higher quality.


all 2400 mhz trident X ram is double sided, & you have no way of fishing for the serial number since it's coming from RMA. They only come in Sammy & Hynix, unless they have added in a new IC maker recently, which I doubt. Would love to see proof that they have started using Elpida.


----------



## szeged

inc luna getting the only elpida gskill sticks rofl


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> inc luna getting the only elpida gskill sticks rofl


haaaa


----------



## adajamali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDEEZY*
> 
> I have a question about the sound. What is the best sound I can get from the SupremeFX? I've been using the headphone amp and it sounds great but I'm wondering if the best source would be from optical? I plan ok buying either the Astro A40 a50
> 
> I am using astro a50 with my R4BE onboard sound and it's sound excellent, the connection is hooked up to optical, also the mic on astro a50 has been far better than turtle beach z300 and sound blaster rage I have used them in the past, just make sure to check and update the firmware if u buy them.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> inc luna getting the only elpida gskill sticks rofl












at least my cards aren't crapping out , seems to be the only non issue recently.... Gotta push em further!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> all 2400 mhz trident X ram is double sided, & you have no way of fishing for the serial number since it's coming from RMA. They only come in Sammy & Hynix, unless they have added in a new IC maker recently, which I doubt. Would love to see proof that they have started using Elpida.


I could ask G.Skill directly, but I already know that down-binned 2933 and such sticks hit the 2666 and 2400 MHz bins. TridentX is ALWAYS the most recent "FAST" IC, as they make the sticks all at once. They don 't keep ICs laying around, especially this late in the DDR3 game. The -Z sticks should all still be Hynix-based, while 8 GB sticks haven't changed in ages. Pretty much anything on the market right now has known ICs. I got an email from G.Skill this morning about review stuff ,so I'll ask them directly. What I will say now though is that they aren't so open with IC info in reviews.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at least my cards aren't crapping out , seems to be the only non issue recently.... Gotta push em further!


Whadda you get in 3DMark? Ran that yet? I got my Ti's now, but only two...gonna spend some time with my kids, eat dinner, then it's upgrade time!


----------



## The Iron Reaper

Hey sorry to ask a silly question but what features on this board would separate it from say a sabertooth.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Iron Reaper*
> 
> Hey sorry to ask a silly question but what features on this board would separate it from say a sabertooth.


Audio, Wi-Fi, memory OC, slot arrangement, OC Panel, VRM design, schmecks.


----------



## The Iron Reaper

ok cool so would that make its 500 dollar price tag worth it over the 320 dollar price tag for the sabertooth?


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> alright now all the rampage black owners need to get the titan black now!!!!


One question I had about the Titan black, is would it be able to SLI with the regular Titan? Mostly, the same name can even if bought from different vendors(Asus/EVGA/Etc), but I'm guessing since the cuda core count is different, it would not be able too?


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> How do I go about doing that since they're sending me new RAM?
> I don't know other than 2400 by default which is why I"m asking. That + there are mentions that the X series is higher quality.


That's cool. It could very well be higher quality, I have no clue. When you say by default, are you saying you can put the Trident in, and get 2400 without XMP (auto overclocking) or manual overclocking your chip?

From reading all the different post here, I thought you had to overclock to get anything close to 2400.

But if that's the case, then can't blame you from going Trident.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I could ask G.Skill directly, but I already know that down-binned 2933 and such sticks hit the 2666 and 2400 MHz bins. TridentX is ALWAYS the most recent "FAST" IC, as they make the sticks all at once. They don 't keep ICs laying around, especially this late in the DDR3 game. The -Z sticks should all still be Hynix-based, while 8 GB sticks haven't changed in ages. Pretty much anything on the market right now has known ICs. I got an email from G.Skill this morning about review stuff ,so I'll ask them directly. What I will say now though is that they aren't so open with IC info in reviews.
> Whadda you get in 3DMark? Ran that yet? I got my Ti's now, but only two...gonna spend some time with my kids, eat dinner, then it's upgrade time!


I totally believe you...

The idea that Trident-X comes in single sided sticks is completely asinine, same goes for them coming in anything but Hynix/sammy.

RipJawz are the ones that tend to come with the lower end IC's & have some single sided variants.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Anyways G SKill wrote back and recommends to me I swap my 2x 32gb 2400 kits for these
> Though I'm still leaning towards Trident X 2400's @ 64gb but the C10's


I have that kit sitting in my cart waiting as I try to decide what kit I really want. The thing is that the quote I got from Avexir was for a kit with custom laser lettering and lighting, lifetime warranty and priced not much higher than the g.skill. I just don't know if the Rampage will play nicely with them, & that's a lotta money to gamble it!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I totally believe you...
> 
> The idea that Trident-X comes in single sided sticks is completely asinine, same goes for them coming in anything but Hynix/sammy.
> 
> RipJawz are the ones that tend to come with the lower end IC's & have some single sided variants.


MFR isn't so bad on AMD, and the Samsung single-sided are kinda OK too, but nothing earth-shattering, for sure.

I love MFR for what it is...pure high MHz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Iron Reaper*
> 
> ok cool so would that make its 500 dollar price tag worth it over the 320 dollar price tag for the sabertooth?


It's only $180....

So, you pay for all of that a bit. Maybe an Extra $20 or so for the ROG name....the audio circuit itself costs a lot, as does the VRM and OC panel. I look at component choices and can forgive the price difference easily. Paying $20 for some profiles in BIOS...totally worth it. Worth paying $100 for, even.

I mean, who's gonna tell you how to max that memory overclock?


----------



## iPEN

It is finally here!!! Glad to join you guys


----------



## rabidz7

How many internal USB headers does this board have?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> How many internal USB headers does this board have?


two, which annoyed some of us in the beginning, as the standard is three. Multiple devices exist to improve upon this though, if needed.


----------



## rabidz7

I paid 500$ for this damn POS and can't connect my CPU fan?!?!


----------



## kpoeticg

The Trident-X 4x8GB CL10 Kit i RMA'd was all Sammy, so was the one that got returned to me. Don't remember if it was double sided dimm's though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> I paid 500$ for this damn POS and can't connect my CPU fan?!?!


your CPU fan is USB?









this board has 100 fan headers.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> I paid 500$ for this damn POS and can't connect my CPU fan?!?!


Why is that? There are 2 CPU fan headers on the board. CPU and CPU Opt. I used both of them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> your CPU fan is USB?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this board has 100 fan headers.


100 is a bit of an exaggeration. I got 6 fans hooked up to it, and still got 2 OPT ones left. So I guess a total of 8 can be hooked up to the board including the 2 CPU ones. Not too shabby at all.


----------



## rabidz7

the thing that let's me control the fan in software.


----------



## Dantrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> How many internal USB headers does this board have?


It has 3 USB 2.0 headers, If you don't use the OC panel. It only has 1 USB 3.0 header.


----------



## Raghar

My CPU FAN is plugged into case slot, because I have bit anti-PWM mood. It runs at about 600 RPM on ULN adapter. Ma CPU temperature on air, in prime, is 58 C package.

What are these fan controls you are talking about?


----------



## Dantrax

Or you could get one of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10198/usb-07/NZXT_IU01_Internal_USB_Expansion_Power_Supplement_Board.html OR HERE http://store.nzxt.com/Internal-USB-Power-Expansion-p/iu01.htm They work great just the sticky on the Velcro tabs doesn't last to long.


----------



## rabidz7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> 
> It has 3 USB 2.0 headers, If you don't use the OC panel. It only has 1 USB 3.0 header.


Well, I do use the OC panel. It only has three USB headers if you are OK with not using a feature that the board it built around!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> 
> It has 3 USB 2.0 headers, If you don't use the OC panel. It only has 1 USB 3.0 header.


derp... nvm... forgot about the ROG extension.

99.99% of motherboards only ever have one USB 3.0 header, as the plug for it is huge.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Well, I do use the OC panel. It only has three USB headers if you are OK with not using a feature that the board it built around!


I wouldn't really say it's built around the OC panel, it's just fluff that most people don't use. It does a TERRIBLE job @ reporting voltages. Who says? My Digital Multi-meter says.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> Well, I do use the OC panel. It only has three USB headers if you are OK with not using a feature that the board it built around!


The oc panel would be useful if I could turn it into an EVBOT.


----------



## Dantrax

Well I gave you a $25 option if you need more USB 2.0 headers. Instead of 2 headers you will have 4. You need a 4 pin molex connection to power the board & it gives you a thick USB connection cable to connect the USB hub to your R4BE. That's the best I can do.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> The oc panel would be useful if I could turn it into an EVBOT.


That would be awesome.


----------



## skupples

So... I just derped hard... Forced a usb head set in backwords... it was dark... surge protection kicked on though, YAY intelligent motherboard!


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So... I just derped hard... Forced a usb head set in backwords... it was dark... surge protection kicked on though, YAY intelligent motherboard!


anti-derpage


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That would be awesome.


Yes it would.

Step 1 to using to oc panel: Take it out of the plastic excuse for a case - it doesn't even stand up properly.


----------



## skupples

I sold mine.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah that design with the folded out kickstand even though the power and data ports are on the bottom makes no freakin sense!!!

I'm thinking of how i can mod it somehow









Definitely gonna have to extend the mobo cable for it


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah that design with the folded out kickstand even though the power and data ports are on the bottom makes no freakin sense!!!
> 
> I'm thinking of how i can mod it somehow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely gonna have to extend the mobo cable for it


I wonder if this thing can actually overvolt a gpu. It says something on their site about it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I wonder if this thing can actually overvolt a gpu. It says something on their site about it.


hehe, probably only GPU's that contain the letter D & C.

in all seriousness though, let me know!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hehe, probably only GPU's that contain the letter D & C.
> 
> in all seriousness though, let me know!


I read a bit more, and I think overvolting a gpu is actually one of the main purposes of the oc panel. If you look on your motherboard, there are hotwires to solder wires from your gpu. Those same hotwires are also on the oc panel, with some added resistors and caps. It's also better because if you mess up you've ruined an oc panel, not a RIVBE.

In summary the oc panel is already an evbot. The question I have now is if you still need to hardmod the graphics card (e.g. remove the resistor on the 780ti) to enable hardware controlled voltage.


----------



## skupples

I'm now remembering this convo from previous times in this thread...

I doubt it would by-pass the greenlight resistor on 780ti.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm now remembering this convo from previous times in this thread...
> 
> I doubt it would by-pass the greenlight resistor on 780ti.


RIVBE doesn't have the hotwires nvm, I'd rather use the oc panel anyway.

Has anyone tried it? The greenlight resistor pisses me off the more I think about it lol. I could probably do 1500core with unlocked voltage, as long as the vrms don't melt.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've never used the hotwire function. But i do remember specifically that they put the function on the OC Panel instead of on the mobo for the BE

The OC Panel has connections for 2 GPU's.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I could ask G.Skill directly, but I already know that down-binned 2933 and such sticks hit the 2666 and 2400 MHz bins. TridentX is ALWAYS the most recent "FAST" IC, as they make the sticks all at once. They don 't keep ICs laying around, especially this late in the DDR3 game. The -Z sticks should all still be Hynix-based, while 8 GB sticks haven't changed in ages. Pretty much anything on the market right now has known ICs. I got an email from G.Skill this morning about review stuff ,so I'll ask them directly. What I will say now though is that they aren't so open with IC info in reviews.
> Whadda you get in 3DMark? Ran that yet? I got my Ti's now, but only two...gonna spend some time with my kids, eat dinner, then it's upgrade time!


I'm definitely inclined to hear what you find out, I still think I should go for the X's especially if what they're offering is lower brand







I'll run 3DMark later on actually once I get my max clocks, oddly enough I"m only pulling around 680W @ Max load.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPEN*
> 
> It is finally here!!! Glad to join you guys


Grats and welcome!!


----------



## Dreamxtreme

From what i gather. "1500" in the serial number is single sided Samsung chips and they don't like to be bothered on anything except there standard spec.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm definitely inclined to hear what you find out, I still think I should go for the X's especially if what they're offering is lower brand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run 3DMark later on actually once I get my max clocks, oddly enough I"m only pulling around 680W @ Max load.
> Grats and welcome!!


definitely stick with the X series man.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> definitely stick with the X series man.


Go it thanks, and can you answer my other question in the Titan thread? Lol

Been trying to get an answer to that for months, it always gets washed away w/ other issues haha.

GPU Clock vs Mem clock for boosting FPS on surround, whichever helps more for bringing up the minimum.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Go it thanks, and can you answer my other question in the Titan thread? Lol
> 
> Been trying to get an answer to that for months, it always gets washed away w/ other issues haha.
> 
> GPU Clock vs Mem clock for boosting FPS on surround, whichever helps more for bringing up the minimum.


That's one highly debatable topic right there... The general consensus is get the core as high as possible, then work on the memory...

I have a choice of another 13mhz on core, or 500 memory. I go for the 500 memory. This is all @ 1.212 of course. I'm saving the VRM's for when I actually need the power to push something. One of my cards is a major dud, 1137 @ 1.212.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's one highly debatable topic right there... The general consensus is get the core as high as possible, then work on the memory...
> 
> I have a choice of another 13mhz on core, or 500 memory. I go for the 500 memory. This is all @ 1.212 of course. I'm saving the VRM's for when I actually need the power to push something. One of my cards is a major dud, 1137 @ 1.212.


Ouch, I guess I should be thankful for what I hit D:

So I have GPU @ 200 and Mem @ 300, should I push or lower one to push the other or ? And should I dare even push past 200% @ 1212?


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I read a bit more, and I think overvolting a gpu is actually one of the main purposes of the oc panel. If you look on your motherboard, there are hotwires to solder wires from your gpu. Those same hotwires are also on the oc panel, with some added resistors and caps. It's also better because if you mess up you've ruined an oc panel, not a RIVBE.
> 
> In summary the oc panel is already an evbot. The question I have now is if you still need to hardmod the graphics card (e.g. remove the resistor on the 780ti) to enable hardware controlled voltage.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> RIVBE doesn't have the hotwires nvm, I'd rather use the oc panel anyway.
> 
> Has anyone tried it? The greenlight resistor pisses me off the more I think about it lol. I could probably do 1500core with unlocked voltage, as long as the vrms don't melt.


Yes you can hardmod a card to work with hotwire. But, Asus DC 2 has spot ready to solder wires -



And Matrix has connectrors for solderless hookup-



Although, unless they have some how tweaked it, I don't believe it's worth it. Had it hooked up to my MVE and 7970 Matrix. Much easier to control card through gpu tweak interface than oc key. Values of adjustment were not voltage based. Just +1+2+3, ect., ect. and I never did see a consistentcy in the value change to mv.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> which monitoring software is this?
> 
> 
> 
> aquacomputer. you need an aquaero or a MK4 tower. Great stuff!
> 
> like so:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well it looks like you have helped me find my next purchase lol
Click to expand...

yes, aquaero 6 !!! 4 pwm or voltage headers, even if on voltage you can do 20 fans per header out of the box !!!!

awesome on the software side as it is just customizable and awesome. but be warned, dont expect to just plop it in and run, you really have to learn it, for me getting it to do what i want, was really really easy but making it look pretty ie the monitoring, still working on it soon i will buy at least 1 more aquaero 6 pro, remove the screen and use it as a slave, as it is much much much cheaper then 3x powerboosts
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> inc luna getting the only elpida gskill sticks rofl
> 
> 
> 
> haaaa
Click to expand...

HEHE
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPEN*
> 
> It is finally here!!! Glad to join you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


welcome !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> I paid 500$ for this damn POS and can't connect my CPU fan?!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why is that? There are 2 CPU fan headers on the board. CPU and CPU Opt. I used both of them.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> your CPU fan is USB?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this board has 100 fan headers.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 100 is a bit of an exaggeration. I got 6 fans hooked up to it, and still got 2 OPT ones left. So I guess a total of 8 can be hooked up to the board including the 2 CPU ones. Not too shabby at all.
Click to expand...

12 with the fans on the oc panel
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> Or you could get one of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10198/usb-07/NZXT_IU01_Internal_USB_Expansion_Power_Supplement_Board.html OR HERE http://store.nzxt.com/Internal-USB-Power-Expansion-p/iu01.htm They work great just the sticky on the Velcro tabs doesn't last to long.


+1 i love mine for my aquaeros ~!


----------



## doctakedooty

So I am going to break down and buy a Rampage Black Edition to replace my R4E only because I need a dual band wifi card and it has it built in. My second question is I got 2133 Corsair Dominator GT ram I have it OC currently at 2400 using 9-11-11-27 timings I am looking for some higher speed better ram. Anyone have some suggestions I would like 2600 or 2800 16gb quad channel kit.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ouch, I guess I should be thankful for what I hit D:
> 
> So I have GPU @ 200 and Mem @ 300, should I push or lower one to push the other or ? And should I dare even push past 200% @ 1212?


power target % doesn't mean allot. It's only going to use it if it needs it. You are on water, with good temps, you could do 1.3+ pretty easily.


----------



## rabidz7

1.37V 4.7GHz, 4930K stable. 1.45V 4.8GHz, crashy-crashy! WHY?!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> 1.37V 4.7GHz, 4930K stable. 1.45V 4.8GHz, crashy-crashy! WHY?!


try PLL overvoltage, VTT and VCCSA boost. Sounds about right though. IF it doesn't work, it's probably heat.

Got the VGAs in and did some gaming-OC benching:


----------



## Ajay57

I had a AVEXIR set in my Black Edition i just sold them on Ebay here, mine caused my Mobo to Random Crashes when OC to 2400C10 fine @ 1600. But who buys 2400 ram to be left @ 1600!!

So i got some G.SKILL RIPJAWS Z SERIES 2133Mhz 16gb Quad Set, Brilliant 100% stable and helped me to lower my Vcore Voltage with out losing Stability.

Also today i easy OC the Ram to 2400Mhz @ 10-12-12-35 @ 1.65volts Cycle time set at 335.

1, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503

If the middle serial number is 1400 then there is a good chance that the IC's are HYNIX!! As everyone said 2500 Samsung ones if your lucky!!

AJ.


----------



## gdubc

So I think I might try that 4x8gb 2133 or 2400 avexir kit with the plans of using it with a hero/4770k setup but trying it out in the black edition first. They just don't offer the 8 stick kits on the website is the only bad thing.


----------



## adajamali

Hi every one,

MY R4BE double boot every time I over clock over 4.1 or x41 multiplier, let's say 4.2 and up, this only happens if I cut the power to psu from the wall but it never happens if I don't cut the power to powersupply and cold boot, is this normal if it is, is there a setting in bios to turn off the double boot option. Here is my spec:
4930k
Rampage black edition
780ti sli
16 gb dominator platinum 1866
Corsair h100i
Corsair ax1200i psu

Thanks


----------



## LunaP

Ok so I"m going to turn down the RipJaws and go w/ the 2400 Trident kit from G Skill.

Appreciate the input guys, I'd rather go w/ the HQ versions vs the mediocure RJ's


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ok so I"m going to turn down the RipJaws and go w/ the 2400 Trident kit from G Skill.
> 
> Appreciate the input guys, I'd rather go w/ the HQ versions vs the mediocure RJ's


Luna

How about thoes pic's???









And any one here who knows for sure whats the problem is with Rampage IV black edition and my TridentX 2400mhz 10-12-12-31 1.65V

The XMP profile dosent work just showing Q-Code 60 and stays on black screen, i have to Clr Cmos and then memory freq is at 1333Mhz again?

XMP just wont work for me


----------



## Ajay57

Well there is a good example not to buy the Tridents if it hit me full in the face for sure!! lol!!!

Buy the ones i said and be happy!

EDIT: Mulle try going into the bios and setting the timings by hand or Manually, but first go to the SPD SECTION and look to see what the XMP PROFILE say's for those RAM STICKS. Then write down the settings then go back and put them in and fire it up my friend!!!

AJ.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Luna
> 
> How about thoes pic's???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And any one here who knows for sure whats the problem is with Rampage IV black edition and my TridentX 2400mhz 10-12-12-31 1.65V
> 
> The XMP profile dosent work just showing Q-Code 60 and stays on black screen, i have to Clr Cmos and then memory freq is at 1333Mhz again?
> 
> XMP just wont work for me


XMP worked great for me. I had to choose XMP, then choose the 2nd CL10 XMP Profile. Then raised my clock to 4.3 and lowered my Core V, pretty much by the book like Raja's guide on the ROG forums

I have the 4x8GB Trident X CL10 kit


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> XMP worked great for me. I had to choose XMP, then choose the 2nd CL10 XMP Profile. Then raised my clock to 4.3 and lowered my Core V, pretty much by the book like Raja's guide on the ROG forums
> 
> I have the 4x8GB Trident X CL10 kit


Hmm is there something wrong with my motherboard or somthing because i also lost a lot of GPU performance as well?

i will try enable the XMP when my motherboard comes home from the dealer again.
then will see.

Could you plz link the guide ?


----------



## Ajay57

It should fire up on AUTO SETTINGS, then you can tweak once you have it running, but again much easier with my Ram here guy's!!


----------



## kpoeticg

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=

After a cpl hours of trying to figure out why i couldn't get my kit to work faster than 1333, i read that guide and followed it exactly. Fired right up. The first screenshot i posted a cpl days ago was the result



^^That was right after following his guide and finding my lowest voltage with Prime95 Blend


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=
> 
> After a cpl hours of trying to figure out why i couldn't get my kit to work faster than 1333, i read that guide and followed it exactly. Fired right up. The first screenshot i posted a cpl days ago was the result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^That was right after following his guide and finding my lowest voltage with Prime95 Blend


Thanks man









its the line (Notes on X79 memory purchasing) i need to follow right or am i completly wrong here??


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, NO. That's the part you need to skip!!!

Scroll past that to the actual OC'ing guide. Trident-X works great with IB-E =)


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol, NO. That's the part you need to skip!!!
> 
> Scroll past that to the actual OC'ing guide. Trident-X works great with IB-E =)


The part were the pictures begins?









well im lost in this memory ****








but trying


----------



## kpoeticg

Dude, im a complete n00b with bios tweaking. Just read the guide. It's literallly a step-by-step walkthrough

You can even read the part about memory purchase if you want, it's just not really relevant. He wrote that around the IB-E release

Have you updated your BIOS yet too?

It goes "Notes on purchasing memory" which isn't really needed. Then "Notes on IB-E/Memory" which is useful info. Then a step-by-step guide. It's not long or anything


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Dude, im a complete n00b with bios tweaking. Just read the guide. It's literallly a step-by-step walkthrough
> 
> You can even read the part about memory purchase if you want, it's just not really relevant. He wrote that around the IB-E release
> 
> Have you updated your BIOS yet too?
> 
> It goes "Notes on purchasing memory" which isn't really needed. Then "Notes on IB-E/Memory" which is useful info. Then a step-by-step guide. It's not long or anything


For the moment i have a 3960X.

and okay i read all of it, Thanks


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Luna
> 
> How about thoes pic's???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And any one here who knows for sure whats the problem is with Rampage IV black edition and my TridentX 2400mhz 10-12-12-31 1.65V
> 
> The XMP profile dosent work just showing Q-Code 60 and stays on black screen, i have to Clr Cmos and then memory freq is at 1333Mhz again?
> 
> XMP just wont work for me


Ah sorry I'll make a guide for it sometime today, been on a troubleshooting call for the past 16 hours.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> *Well there is a good example not to buy the Tridents* if it hit me full in the face for sure!! lol!!!
> 
> Buy the ones i said and be happy!
> 
> EDIT: Mulle try going into the bios and setting the timings by hand or Manually, but first go to the SPD SECTION and look to see what the XMP PROFILE say's for those RAM STICKS. Then write down the settings then go back and put them in and fire it up my friend!!!
> 
> AJ.


THen you shouldn't be buying any hardware since someone will always get something defective somewhere.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hmm is there something wrong with my motherboard or somthing because i also lost a lot of GPU performance as well?
> 
> i will try enable the XMP when my motherboard comes home from the dealer again.
> then will see.
> 
> Could you plz link the guide ?


I forgot do you have 2 kits you're combining or just 1 and which is it ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> It should fire up on AUTO SETTINGS, then you can tweak once you have it running, but again much easier with my Ram here guy's!!


AUTO settings doesn't always work you're going to 90% of the time HAVE to tweak something that's the issue w/ these boards they're more geared for people that know what they're doing vs the average which sucks for those like me initially. I've been nonstop trial and error since I blew up Cadaveca's email weeks ago Lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> For the moment i have a 3960X.
> 
> and okay i read all of it, Thanks


OOOOOOOOOOOH. That's ALOT different. 2400's pushing it for SB-E from what i understand.

You'll probly need to do some real tweaking for that =\


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> OOOOOOOOOOOH. That's ALOT different. 2400's pushing it for SB-E from what i understand.
> 
> You'll probly need to do some real tweaking for that =\


i got a seriusly problem then :/

Might just buy some new memory


----------



## kpoeticg

Running faster memory is probly the number one reason to upgrade to IB-E. I think 2400 is the absolute highest that SB-E can overclock to. Which means it's not gonna happen at stock settings

2400's a breeze for IB-E

You can probly still run your 2400's if you lower the frequency to like 1600 and take it from there. Not really sure though, i skipped SB-E


----------



## DooRules

My 4930k is having no problem with my 2666 gskill kit, still playing with ram settings in bios. Easy to get lost with all the settings there. My 3960x would not even look at 2400 ram.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i've spent pretty much this entire week lost in the mystical land of BIOS


----------



## Mulle1991

Guys i have no problems at all on my MSI Bigbang Xpower x79 with running my 3960x and my TridentX 2400mhz together?
XMP works perfectly

But on the Asus its just problem on problem on problem?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Guys i have no problems at all on my MSI Bigbang Xpower x79 with running my 3960x and my TridentX 2400mhz together?
> XMP works perfectly
> 
> But on the Asus its just problem on problem on problem?


Nope. I have no problems with 3960X and 4960X on the RIVBE. It's a setting somewhere that's causing your issues. RIVBE is for tweaking, not really just auto-settings. Auto settings are for high-end OC, and 2400 MHz ram is hardly high-end.

I have just one issue with this board and C1 3960X, but both my board and CPU are ES, so maybe retail fixed the problem I have (secondary PCIe x16 slot not working when primary is populated, all other slots work fine, and everything works perfectly with IVB-E).

IF you use settings from older boards/other brands, then yes, memory OC is harder on RIVBE. You just have to take a different approach with RIVBE is all.


----------



## kpoeticg

*edit*

@cadaveca's a guru compared to me.


----------



## Mulle1991

This dosent make eny sense to me...


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> This dosent make eny sense to me...


Heh...

You know, that's how I felt at first when I got my RIVBE back in October. I had been using P9X79 Deluxe and 3960X since November 2011, and it worked great. Clocked my second 3960X C0 ES to 5 GHz on air @ 1.365 V, no problem. when on P9 I needed 1.45 or so. But ram clocking...OMG...I feel ya, man.









Today, I sorted out everything. New Nvidia drivers, as mentioned in this thread a ways back, sorted out a LOT, as did my PSU dying and an SSD dying. Once those were out of this rig, the problems stopped. Everything I had issues with...was the old PSU, and a wonky OS install/drivers.

I mean, I can pop off screenshots of 1600 MHz 32 GB @ 2400 MHz, no problem, 16 GB 2666 C10 @ 2933, 8 GB 3100 MHz @ 3435 MHz...

One thing. Set current limits in BIOS to max possible for each area. That is a big thing, too. You gotta set that stuff up manually, on other boards, it is nearly automatic.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Heh...
> 
> You know, that's how I felt at first when I got my RIVBE back in October. I had been using P9X79 Deluxe and 3960X since November 2011, and it worked great. Clocked my second 3960X C0 ES to 5 GHz on air @ 1.365 V, no problem. when on P9 I needed 1.45 or so. But ram clocking...OMG...I feel ya, man.


i realy dont see the issue between RIVBE and the TridentX with the 3960X.. Maybe i just sell is and then buy a 4930k?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> i realy dont see the issue between RIVBE and the TridentX with the 3960X.. Maybe i just sell is and then buy a 4930k?


Maybe, yep. I have TridentX 1600 MHz C7 32 GB kit @ 2400 MHz 10-12-12-31 right this second.

The only hesitation is that quality on these chips is still quite varied...some need 1.4 for 4.5, some need less than 1.275V. That's a huge variance.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Maybe, yep. I have TridentX 1600 MHz C7 32 GB kit @ 2400 MHz 10-12-12-31 right this second.
> 
> The only hesitation is that quality on these chips is still quite varied...some need 1.4 for 4.5, some need less than 1.275V. That's a huge variance.


i have TridentX 2400Mhz 10-12-12-31 to


----------



## asfgbdnf

guys, can someone tell me which water block is best for gtx Titan? thanks


----------



## skupples

i'm still on release bios. Haven't seen a need to switch to the new one yet. Haven't heard or sought out much feed back from SBE owners.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> guys, can someone tell me which water block is best for gtx Titan? thanks


EK all the way.

specially if you plan to crack the voltage, & flash the bios. They have the best VRM & memory cooling on the market (for titan)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> specially if you plan to crack the voltage, & flash the bios. They have the best VRM & memory cooling on the market (for titan)


that block good for 780Ti too?

0203 seems best for SB-E, for me.


----------



## AlemSalleh

New here...






















http://valid.canardpc.com/yg8y84
http://valid.canardpc.com/yg8y84


----------



## Raghar

Guess what's this board:


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> i'm still on release bios. Haven't seen a need to switch to the new one yet. Haven't heard or sought out much feed back from SBE owners.
> EK all the way.
> 
> specially if you plan to crack the voltage, & flash the bios. They have the best VRM & memory cooling on the market (for titan)


For some reason I really want to challenge that due to the reviews running w/o the full backplates/proper thermals.

What's a good tool to use to measure my VRM temps? Since I guess software wouldn't be able to do much there.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> i'm still on release bios. Haven't seen a need to switch to the new one yet. Haven't heard or sought out much feed back from SBE owners.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> guys, can someone tell me which water block is best for gtx Titan? thanks
> 
> 
> 
> EK all the way.
> 
> specially if you plan to crack the voltage, & flash the bios. They have the best VRM & memory cooling on the market (for titan)
Click to expand...

EK are good but I personal recommend Aquacomputer.

I use EK bcz was the only block available on March 2013.


----------



## kpoeticg

The only Aquacomputer Blocks i've ever heard about having leaking problems were their Titan Blocks with the Backplates. A few people had leaks between the block and backplate that destroyed their Titans. Dunno if they fixed the issue, and i've only ever heard that about their Titan Block with Backplate


----------



## Mulle1991

Well peeps









may solved the problem









For now Thanks so much for your help <3


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlemSalleh*
> 
> New here...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/yg8y84


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Guess what's this board:





welcome


----------



## gdubc

I was going to go to microcenter today to exchange my 4820k for the 4930k, but I went up in the mountains instead. I am still kind of on the fence about exchanging but my deadline is soon so I gotta decide! That $330 would buy me an aquaero 6 and an aquaero 5lt to slave off it so I just don't know...


----------



## kpoeticg

Get the 4930k and the LT. Then when you recoupe a little bit you can get the A6









If you're goin IB-E, you might as well get the extra cores that we have access to. I also love my A6Pro, but if you were gonna get an LT slave anyway you might as well just get the LT now and the 6 when you can afford it again. Just my


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I was going to go to microcenter today to exchange my 4820k for the 4930k, but I went up in the mountains instead. I am still kind of on the fence about exchanging but my deadline is soon so I gotta decide! That $330 would buy me an aquaero 6 and an aquaero 5lt to slave off it so I just don't know...


If you're going to stick with a 4820k, you might as well get the 4770k, the ipc of haswell probably outweighs quad channel memory and the extra cache. x79/2011 would be long gone without the hexacores.


----------



## Mulle1991

Hello guys









Well i got my RIVBE up and running now.

but heres a little problem maybe someone here experienced the same?

FPS Drop in Benchmarks?
a little lower GPU usage then normal?
Lower scores in GPU benchmarks?


----------



## skupples

What is the point of slaving the LT? The only reason I could see to do it is running more than 50 fans.

I have no real allegiance when it comes to water block companies. It's not competition though, EK makes the #1 GK110 blocks. I'll take a 2c hotter core for 8-10c cooler VRM's & vrams.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well i got my RIVBE up and running now.
> 
> but heres a little problem maybe someone here experienced the same?
> 
> FPS Drop in Benchmarks?
> a little lower GPU usage then normal?
> Lower scores in GPU benchmarks?


Please add your sig to your rig, the process can be found in your profile area.

Are you running 3930k? Are your PhysX results lower in the bench mark?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What is the point of slaving the LT? The only reason I could see to do it is running more than 50 fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have no real allegiance when it comes to water block companies. It's not competition though, EK makes the #1 GK110 blocks. I'll take a 2c hotter core for 8-10c cooler VRM's & vrams.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well i got my RIVBE up and running now.
> 
> but heres a little problem maybe someone here experienced the same?
> 
> FPS Drop in Benchmarks?
> a little lower GPU usage then normal?
> Lower scores in GPU benchmarks?
> 
> 
> 
> Please add your sig to your rig, the process can be found in your profile area.
> 
> Are you running 3930k? Are your PhysX results lower in the bench mark?
Click to expand...

Not all fans have the rather small current draw of the AP15's.

I measured the current draw on the 6 fan groups on each side of my main rads, and got 2.2 amps, so 6 of those fans is a safe limit for a channel of the Aquaero 6, especially when all 4 channels are equally loaded.

I have an A6 for the four 6 fan groups and a 5 LT to control the 2 groups of 4 fans each on the external 480.

Some of these Case Labs builds have a similar number of fans, so it's a nice way of expanding the A6 without having to have it in a bay.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Get the 4930k and the LT. Then when you recoupe a little bit you can get the A6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're goin IB-E, you might as well get the extra cores that we have access to. I also love my A6Pro, but if you were gonna get an LT slave anyway you might as well just get the LT now and the 6 when you can afford it again. Just my


quite soon ill be getting a aq6pro to make a slave ( have to take off the LCD, shoggy told me you can ! )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What is the point of slaving the LT? The only reason I could see to do it is running more than 50 fans.
> 
> I have no real allegiance when it comes to water block companies. It's not competition though, EK makes the #1 GK110 blocks. I'll take a 2c hotter core for 8-10c cooler VRM's & vrams.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well i got my RIVBE up and running now.
> 
> but heres a little problem maybe someone here experienced the same?
> 
> FPS Drop in Benchmarks?
> a little lower GPU usage then normal?
> Lower scores in GPU benchmarks?
> 
> 
> 
> Please add your sig to your rig, the process can be found in your profile area.
> 
> Are you running 3930k? Are your PhysX results lower in the bench mark?
Click to expand...

you get 4 more fan channels ( none are pwn- hope they will fix this idk though may be at its limits ) and 4 more temp sensors ( it sees it as 4x poweradj )

but if you do this to a aq6, you get epic power ! i want it because when i have to ramp up all the fans from 2-3 channels it is really noisy.

i want to ramp up my fans in stages ( or i could power a pump from then ect )


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What is the point of slaving the LT? The only reason I could see to do it is running more than 50 fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have no real allegiance when it comes to water block companies. It's not competition though, EK makes the #1 GK110 blocks. I'll take a 2c hotter core for 8-10c cooler VRM's & vrams.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well i got my RIVBE up and running now.
> 
> but heres a little problem maybe someone here experienced the same?
> 
> FPS Drop in Benchmarks?
> a little lower GPU usage then normal?
> Lower scores in GPU benchmarks?
> 
> 
> 
> Please add your sig to your rig, the process can be found in your profile area.
> 
> Are you running 3930k? Are your PhysX results lower in the bench mark?
Click to expand...

Slaving an LT is the most cost effective way to get 4 more fan headers. You also get 4 more temp sensors and an extra flowmeter header

I love the options that AC gives you to control your cooling. I'm considering getting either a PA or LT Slave for my A6Pro myself.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> quite soon ill be getting a aq6pro to make a slave ( have to take off the LCD, shoggy told me you can ! )
> 
> you get 4 more fan channels ( none are pwn- hope they will fix this idk though may be at its limits ) and 4 more temp sensors ( it sees it as 4x poweradj )
> 
> but if you do this to a aq6, you get epic power ! i want it because when i have to ramp up all the fans from 2-3 channels it is really noisy.
> 
> i want to ramp up my fans in stages ( or i could power a pump from then ect )


You definitely can slave a 6 Pro or XT, though it's kind of throwing money away in most situations. You're basically flashing your 6Pro into a 5LT.

In your particular situation, if you really need the extra amps on the 6's fan headers then it might be worth it. You can also get 3-4PA's for the price of a 6Pro though, which would also give you 4 more channels and even more power than the 6 Slave.

I'm pretty sure if they had a way of adding PWM to slave devices, they would've by now. I could be wrong though. The fact that slaving an LT makes it lose its one PWM header makes me think that it's not gonna be cost effective for them to implement


----------



## Mega Man

they are not making a 6lt because they would basically lose moneies !

but i could be wrong but i thought that 3x poweradj was more exp then a pro model !


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they are not making a 6lt because they would basically lose moneies !
> 
> but i could be wrong but i thought that 3x poweradj was more exp then a pro model !


I agree about the 6LT. I actually just received my 5Pro the day before the A6 was announced. I complained a little bit in the thread at the AC forums about them not making a 6LT for the people that already own 5Pro's/XT's.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14279/bus-290/Aquacomputer_USB_Poweradjust_2_-_Ultra_Version_53083.html

^^PA2 Ultra $56.99

A6Pro was $200 last time i checked. That's why it will never make sense to me for some1 to buy a 6Pro just to slave it









If you already have one lying around it's a different story

Edit: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17839/bus-335/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_6_PRO_USB_Fan_Controller_Graphic_LCD_Liquid_System_Controller_53145.html

$219.99


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they are not making a 6lt because they would basically lose moneies !
> 
> but i could be wrong but i thought that 3x poweradj was more exp then a pro model !
> 
> 
> 
> I agree about the 6LT. I actually just received my 5Pro the day before the A6 was announced. I complained a little bit in the thread at the AC forums about them not making a 6LT for the people that already own 5Pro's/XT's.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14279/bus-290/Aquacomputer_USB_Poweradjust_2_-_Ultra_Version_53083.html
> 
> ^^PA2 Ultra $56.99
> A6Pro was $200 last time i checked. That's why it will never make sense to me for some1 to buy a 6Pro just to slave it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you already have one lying around it's a different story
> 
> Edit: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17839/bus-335/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_6_PRO_USB_Fan_Controller_Graphic_LCD_Liquid_System_Controller_53145.html
> $219.99
Click to expand...

not if they enable pwm output ( assuming it is not a limitation of the controller )

also to note it takes 4 poweradj =1 slave

4x55 =220 + front panel bracket !

even if you save the monies from the non ultra version i is ~ same costs and less space used ! + although you get more power from the poweradj, less heat from the aq6 is introduced to your system


----------



## kpoeticg

I feel like it's gotta be a limitation of the controller. Otherwise why would you lose the PWM output? Do you think it was just something that they didn't wanna "turn on" in the slave fw? I feel like it has to be more than just a software issue. Maybe Aquabus can't handle PWM? I dunno...

I guess if you need "Exactly 4 Headers" with "Exactly an extra ~0.5-1A per header" maybe it makes sense. Could even get a cpl PA2's and an LT for less than a Pro. Just seems like a waste to me. It's really none of my business what you do with your rig though







Sorry if i'm coming off as argumentative.

I'd imagine if PWM was possible off Aquabus and Slave devices, they would've already implemented it. But who knows, that would be an excellent feature. The fact that they're not gonna make a 6LT also makes me think it'll never happen. If they could make PWM work off slave devices, they'd be idiots not to make a 6LT


----------



## Mega Man

i think it has more to do with the fact it sees the slave as 4x poweradj

2.5-3a ( normal-watercooled ) same as poweradj !!

the other thing i dont understand is why they got rid of the 2pin standby i thought it was very useful !


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> specially if you plan to crack the voltage, & flash the bios. They have the best VRM & memory cooling on the market (for titan)


I think EK has 3 different water block for titan, which one is the best of best?
One more question, do you know what component do i need to connect multiple VGA cards, like this friend did in picture below? Also, are EK blocks(CPU/VGA) have led on them?where does that white light come from?



Edit: How is EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel compared with other EK full cover block? For example, EK-FC Titan SE and EK-FC Titan XXL
EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel 
EK-FC Titan SE : 
EK-FC Titan XXL: 

Also what kind of linking system is more preferable? Bridge & link CSQ system or terminal system?


----------



## tvelander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I think EK has 3 different water block for titan, which one is the best of best?


http://www.liontech.se/PartDetail.aspx?q=p:6731705


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What is the point of slaving the LT? The only reason I could see to do it is running more than 50 fans.
> 
> I have no real allegiance when it comes to water block companies. It's not competition though, EK makes the #1 GK110 blocks. I'll take a 2c hotter core for 8-10c cooler VRM's & vrams.
> Please add your sig to your rig, the process can be found in your profile area.
> 
> Are you running 3930k? Are your PhysX results lower in the bench mark?


Why?

And no i am running 3960x 4.6Ghz

About the PhysX i realy dont know,
The Benchmarks i was running at the GPUs was Valley Benchmark.

for exmple

when i used my MSI Xpower 2 the score was about 6035

Now on the Asus board the score is 5570
and a lower fps.

Why?


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Why?
> 
> And no i am running 3960x 4.6Ghz
> 
> About the PhysX i realy dont know,
> The Benchmarks i was running at the GPUs was Valley Benchmark.
> 
> for exmple
> 
> when i used my MSI Xpower 2 the score was about 6035
> 
> Now on the Asus board the score is 5570
> and a lower fps.
> 
> Why?


I'll give you the "Raja" answer - The R4BE was made/optimized for Ivy-E not Sandy-E. R4E would be a better mobo to run 3930/3960.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I'll give you the "Raja" answer - The R4BE was made/optimized for Ivy-E not Sandy-E. R4E would be a better mobo to run 3930/3960.


i just want this to run ok for now.

ill buy a Ivy-E a little later så dont worry


----------



## peperonni

Hello!!
Here is a new owner from spain!
I couldnt try it because a problem with the liquid cooling, i hope i can resolve it soon


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

My build has finally begun.

Mercury S8 has been pre-ordered.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I think EK has 3 different water block for titan, which one is the best of best?
> One more question, do you know what component do i need to connect multiple VGA cards, like this friend did in picture below? Also, are EK blocks(CPU/VGA) have led on them?where does that white light come from?
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: How is EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel compared with other EK full cover block? For example, EK-FC Titan SE and EK-FC Titan XXL
> EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel
> EK-FC Titan SE :
> EK-FC Titan XXL:
> 
> Also what kind of linking system is more preferable? Bridge & link CSQ system or terminal system?


the actual copper block itself is the same on all the blocks, just has a different top for different looks. i always use some crystal link when doing sli WC.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the actual copper block itself is the same on all the blocks, just has a different top for different looks. i always use some crystal link when doing sli WC.


what about some model with Nickel?
Does that mean the base is made of copper and Nickel alloy?


----------



## Mulle1991

Now that my system is up and running fine. no crashes.

Why is my BF4 running so crappy with the new Asus Rampage IV black edition?

much more smoother ingame with my Xpower 2


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I think EK has 3 different water block for titan, which one is the best of best?
> One more question, do you know what component do i need to connect multiple VGA cards, like this friend did in picture below? Also, are EK blocks(CPU/VGA) have led on them?where does that white light come from?
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: How is EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel compared with other EK full cover block? For example, EK-FC Titan SE and EK-FC Titan XXL
> EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel
> EK-FC Titan SE :
> EK-FC Titan XXL:
> 
> 
> Also what kind of linking system is more preferable? Bridge & link CSQ system or terminal system?


EK-FC TITAN XXL has been discontinued, while the plate still exists, the naming does not.

The revisions have come as new GPU's have come out. The newest block, which is the FC-TITAN-SE is made to fit 780TI, 780, & Titan, the only difference being where they mount the screw stand offs.

The blocks all perform pretty much the same. Stren's testing actually shows the newer revision doing ever so slightly worse on VRM's/Vrams, and ever so slightly better on the core.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/09/07/ek-titan-waterblock/

for some reason the detailed break down is coming up with 404 error, but yeah... They all perform basically the same.

There is only one linking system for TITAN blocks. It's called "EK-FC Terminal"

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c645/s2060/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Multiple_Block_Connectivity-EK_FC_Terminal-Page1.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> what about some model with Nickel?
> Does that mean the base is made of copper and Nickel alloy?


the nickel blocks are only nickel plated.

*this is the new design*


*this is the old design*


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Here are more pics of my modified EK board blocks with the black vinyl overlaid on nickel. Once I find some polishing materials, I'll go back in and shine up the acrylic. So far though, I like how they came out.


which one is better? copper or nickel?


----------



## szeged

i always go nickle plated because ive never have problems

however some other people (skupp) have had lots of problems with nickle


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i always go nickle plated because ive never have problems
> 
> however some other people (skupp) have had lots of problems with nickle


could you elaborate? what kind of problem? chemical reaction with the cooling liquid?
and what is the purpose of having a nickle plated?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> EK-FC TITAN XXL has been discontinued, while the plate still exists, the naming does not.
> 
> The revisions have come as new GPU's have come out. The newest block, which is the FC-TITAN-SE is made to fit 780TI, 780, & Titan, the only difference being where they mount the screw stand offs.
> 
> The blocks all perform pretty much the same. Stren's testing actually shows the newer revision doing ever so slightly worse on VRM's/Vrams, and ever so slightly better on the core.
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/09/07/ek-titan-waterblock/
> 
> for some reason the detailed break down is coming up with 404 error, but yeah... They all perform basically the same.
> 
> There is only one linking system for TITAN blocks. It's called "EK-FC Terminal"
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c645/s2060/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Multiple_Block_Connectivity-EK_FC_Terminal-Page1.html
> the nickel blocks are only nickel plated.
> 
> *this is the new design*
> 
> 
> *this is the old design*


Thanks a loooot. very good summary.
just one point I think you're wrong. For EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel, it only works with EK-FC Bridge & Link CSQ system.
By the way, which linking system is more efficient and preferable? EK-FC Bridge & Link CSQ system or FC Terminal system?


----------



## szeged

there was some flaking problems with the nickle plating due to a problem with their plating process.

The only change from nickle and copper is just aesthetics.


----------



## rabidz7

Copper is better.


----------



## szeged

theres no temp difference between nickle plated and copper. Get which one you think looks better.


----------



## Raghar

I like copper, it has much better color and feel for black boards especially when used as fins and heatpipes. Coloring, or plating, is unnecessary for copper.

Anodising aluminium is sensible, because it oxidizes readily, but aside of that and aside of gold/silver plating, plating is often unnecessary.

BTW who needs water cooling?










This is on air with prime.


----------



## rabidz7

I prefer solid gold waterblocks.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Thanks a loooot. very good summary.
> just one point I think you're wrong. For EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel, it only works with EK-FC Bridge & Link CSQ system.
> By the way, which linking system is more efficient and preferable? EK-FC Bridge & Link CSQ system or FC Terminal system?


There's only one link system for titan blocks.

the ones with the circles (CSQ) will NOT fit on a titan block. The porting is different, & CSQ only has one screw mount. The titan blocks have 3x screws.
CSQ










FC-Terminal

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I like copper, it has much better color and feel for black boards especially when used as fins and heatpipes. Coloring, or plating, is unnecessary for copper.
> 
> Anodising aluminium is sensible, because it oxidizes readily, but aside of that and aside of gold/silver plating, plating is often unnecessary.


gold plated blocks are double plated. Copper block, then nickel plate, then gold plate.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> There's only one link system for titan blocks.
> 
> the ones with the circles (CSQ) will NOT fit on a titan block. The porting is different, & CSQ only has one screw mount. The titan blocks have 3x screws.
> CSQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FC-Terminal


EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel, it only works with EK-FC Bridge & Link CSQ system. This is said on EK product page. Check it out http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-se-original-csq-nickel.html


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> I prefer solid gold waterblocks.


They are soft and heavy, screws would break them and you'd have spill.

In fact when I used golden spoon, I went for plated spoon, instead of full gold spoon. You wont bite it by an accident, and while it wears out by use, you can buy new one much cheaper than 1/10 of full gold spoon, and there are situations when rigid underlying structure helps. (You'd end with bend gold spoon in certain situations. When you would stir things.)


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I think EK has 3 different water block for titan, which one is the best of best?
> One more question, do you know what component do i need to connect multiple VGA cards, like this friend did in picture below? *Also, are EK blocks(CPU/VGA) have led on them?where does that white light come from?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: How is EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel compared with other EK full cover block? For example, EK-FC Titan SE and EK-FC Titan XXL
> EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel
> EK-FC Titan SE :
> EK-FC Titan XXL:
> 
> 
> 
> Also what kind of linking system is more preferable? Bridge & link CSQ system or terminal system?


The LED's don't come with the blocks. I was going to make my own, but ended up getting these on amazon since they are pre-wired with resistors for 12v ($8.99 for a pack of 10):

http://www.amazon.com/Lights--wired-volt-leds--White/dp/B007O1WWTA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1388437492&sr=1-2&keywords=Qty+10-+LED+Lights-+3mm+pre+wired+12+volt+leds-+12V+White

I soldered them in parallel and sleeved it to make it easier to install and hide the wiring:










I've used copper and nickel plated blocks in the past, and didn't have any issues with either. I just went with all copper this time around because I like the added color... especially with the white LED's.

As for the SLI links, I went with the bitspower sli adjustable links so I don't cover the sexiness of the RIVBE board and EK backplates. Downside is it costs more than the EK sli bridge... that's if you go parallel since you have to buy 4 for tri-sli or 6 for quad.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i always go nickle plated because ive never have problems
> 
> however some other people (skupp) have had lots of problems with nickle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> could you elaborate? what kind of problem? chemical reaction with the cooling liquid?
> and what is the purpose of having a nickle plated?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> there was some flaking problems with the nickle plating due to a problem with their plating process.
> 
> The only change from nickle and copper is just aesthetics.


not 100% accurate it also helps with corrosion ( visual discoloration. )


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I think EK has 3 different water block for titan, which one is the best of best?
> One more question, do you know what component do i need to connect multiple VGA cards, like this friend did in picture below? *Also, are EK blocks(CPU/VGA) have led on them?where does that white light come from?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: How is EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel compared with other EK full cover block? For example, EK-FC Titan SE and EK-FC Titan XXL
> EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel
> EK-FC Titan SE :
> EK-FC Titan XXL:
> 
> 
> 
> Also what kind of linking system is more preferable? Bridge & link CSQ system or terminal system?
> 
> 
> 
> The LED's don't come with the blocks. I was going to make my own, but ended up getting these on amazon since they are pre-wired with resistors for 12v ($8.99 for a pack of 10):
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Lights--wired-volt-leds--White/dp/B007O1WWTA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1388437492&sr=1-2&keywords=Qty+10-+LED+Lights-+3mm+pre+wired+12+volt+leds-+12V+White
> 
> I soldered them in parallel and sleeved it to make it easier to install and hide the wiring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've used copper and nickel plated blocks in the past, and didn't have any issues with either. I just went with all copper this time around because I like the added color... especially with the white LED's.
> 
> As for the SLI links, I went with the bitspower sli adjustable links so I don't cover the sexiness of the RIVBE board and EK backplates. Downside is it costs more than the EK sli bridge... that's if you go parallel since you have to buy 4 for tri-sli or 6 for quad.
Click to expand...





tyvm for the link !


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I like copper, it has much better color and feel for black boards especially when used as fins and heatpipes. Coloring, or plating, is unnecessary for copper.
> 
> Anodising aluminium is sensible, because it oxidizes readily, but aside of that and aside of gold/silver plating, plating is often unnecessary.
> 
> BTW who needs water cooling?


Those temps seem a bit warm to me...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Those temps seem a bit warm to me...


Must be cold as heck where you are to get temps like that LOL.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not 100% accurate it also helps with corrosion ( visual discoloration. )
> 
> tyvm for the link !


Only helps with corrosion when the nickel plating is properly done, which EK is notoriously known for messing up. Either way, people should be running anti-corrosion in their loops.

Ohwell, @least they machine all of their products in house these days.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel, it only works with EK-FC Bridge & Link CSQ system. This is said on EK product page. Check it out http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-se-original-csq-nickel.html


interesting, iv'e never seen those tops on a Titan block. The ancient CSQ design + newest revision of GK110 block...


----------



## Mega Man

i dont run anything anti corrosion

if you need it, you are not changing your loop enough


----------



## skupples

I'll agree to disagree. I rather not move my massive, heavy as hell tower to drain it every few weeks.

It takes two people to move my case around due to the awkward size/shape/weight.


----------



## szeged

what are you on about? that 900D is smalltime


----------



## skupples

I'm not a massive burly man by any means, & the amount of money dumped into this thing + weight = i'm only comfortable moving it when I have some one to help me.


----------



## szeged

gotta get that new s8 from CL


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> gotta get that new s8 from CL


it looks small.









though, could still probably fit more into it than a 900D, just more, smaller rads.

I really thought the new case was going to end up being an inverted double wide.


----------



## szeged

i kinda want one with windows on all sides for a "smaller" type build lol even though im sure it can fit more into it than most.


----------



## xarot

This board is a damn hard one to figure out at times. Almost close to Asus Striker II Formula...cough









The sudden shutdown issue started again for me, well I figured it out after a few days. But when testing with my two 4x8 GB 1866 MHz kits at a time, when I leave AUTO settings, nothing really works unless I fine-tune EVERYTHING by myself..

As I said, everything works with everything at stock settings and RAM at 1333 MHz. XMP or manual DRAM settings won't work too good or at all unless I set at least Vcore, DRAM voltage, VTT, VCCSA, VCCSA LLC, CPU LLC, CPU Current Capability manually. And before that I need to figure out what kind of voltage works or not. Could of course be my CPU or DRAM kits or the board, but I don't think I'm the only one with these issues. I just don't understand why this board functions so different from RIVE. After days of troubleshooting I am stable again at 4.5 GHz LinX/Prime95 wise, but it was a tough road ahead.

Can't really say I like the board over my RIVE or RIVF, if we are not talking about the looks only. It seems these 'issues' are not resolved on ROG forum either, they seem to be always pointing at other components.

Anyone else feel the same?


----------



## szeged

so far ive had absolutely 0 issues with my board in any way :x maybe i just got lucky.


----------



## skupples

Same. Though, iv'e experienced boot loops on pretty much every motherboard iv'e ever owned @ one point or another.

This one has been easy enough, I just have to fine tune 90% of the settings manually.


----------



## SDMODNoob

And to add on top of all the troubles... Asus is out of stock on the board to do advanced RMAs, go figure right?


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so far ive had absolutely 0 issues with my board in any way :x maybe i just got lucky.


I must of got lucky also


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I must of got lucky also


Count me in as one of the fortunate...


----------



## DooRules

zero problems here as well, that is with a 3960x, and two different 4930k chips, 2133 and 2666 gskill ram


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Only helps with corrosion when the nickel plating is properly done, which EK is notoriously known for messing up. Either way, people should be running anti-corrosion in their loops.
> 
> Ohwell, @least they machine all of their products in house these days.
> interesting, iv'e never seen those tops on a Titan block. The ancient CSQ design + newest revision of GK110 block...


Assuming the info on EK page is correct, could you please help to find me some connecting block for multiple GPU?


----------



## Arm3nian

I had random shutdowns aswell but it had to be gpu drivers, as it only happened when watching videos, seems fixed now.

Everything auto works best for me. Even ram on xmp. The only setting I need to change is vcore and the multiplier, manually entering voltages and messing with the digi power menu just leads to instability. If auto works for youand you are on water to take temperature out of the problem, then just leave it there. Personally I didn't get a higher oc when changing things, auto seems good on this board.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so far ive had absolutely 0 issues with my board in any way :x maybe i just got lucky.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> I had random shutdowns aswell but it had to be gpu drivers, as it only happened when watching videos, seems fixed now.
> 
> Everything auto works best for me. Even ram on xmp. The only setting I need to change is vcore and the multiplier, manually entering voltages and messing with the digi power menu just leads to instability. If auto works for youand you are on water to take temperature out of the problem, then just leave it there. Personally I didn't get a higher oc when changing things, auto seems good on this board.


more or less me, but i push as hard as i can !


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> This board is a damn hard one to figure out at times. Almost close to Asus Striker II Formula...cough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't really say I like the board over my RIVE or RIVF, if we are not talking about the looks only. It seems these 'issues' are not resolved on ROG forum either, they seem to be always pointing at other components.
> 
> Anyone else feel the same?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so far ive had absolutely 0 issues with my board in any way :x maybe i just got lucky.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Same. Though, iv'e experienced boot loops on pretty much every motherboard iv'e ever owned @ one point or another.
> 
> This one has been easy enough, I just have to fine tune 90% of the settings manually.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I must of got lucky also


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Count me in as one of the fortunate...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DooRules*
> 
> zero problems here as well, that is with a 3960x, and two different 4930k chips, 2133 and 2666 gskill ram


I agree and diagree. If you have used Asus boards over the past 2 or 3 generations, a lot is the same. However, there are some annoyances. If you want to just setup and be content with a mediocre-high overclock, it's a breeze. If you want 5 ghz STABLE on Ivy-E, you're going to encounter some issues. Validation and bench stable are 2 entirely different things with conventional cooling. While an awesome board, it will definitely get better with mature bios'.


----------



## xarot

Thanks all!

Well I have another unopened RIVEBE here as well, I might just try it next and probably with my SB-E CPU. Then rule out RAM etc. It also seems high density (8 GB) sticks could cause issues for many. My both kits are from Corsair (Vengeance and Dominator GT). I must also test with G.Skill 4x4 1600 MHz RAM if it does the same. Hopefully my CPU IMC is not the culprit, but of course it's always possible to RMA.

Just curious to see if I will have same issues with another components in the system.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Why?
> 
> And no i am running 3960x 4.6Ghz
> 
> About the PhysX i realy dont know,
> The Benchmarks i was running at the GPUs was Valley Benchmark.
> 
> for exmple
> 
> when i used my MSI Xpower 2 the score was about 6035
> 
> Now on the Asus board the score is 5570
> and a lower fps.
> 
> Why?












sb-e is known to throttle on this board some times. Follow these directions, may help.

This board requires a great deal more manual tuning compared to other boards w/ auto-settings.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I agree and diagree. If you have used Asus boards over the past 2 or 3 generations, a lot is the same. However, there are some annoyances. If you want to just setup and be content with a mediocre-high overclock, it's a breeze. If you want 5 ghz STABLE on Ivy-E, you're going to encounter some issues. Validation and bench stable are 2 entirely different things with conventional cooling. While an awesome board, it will definitely get better with mature bios'.


You can tweak all you want, but to get 5ghz stable you're going to need a chip that can do it. My chip can do 4.9, but the voltage scale past that is close to zero, I've messed with the settings and tried 1.6v, instant crash on windows load.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Anyone in this club uses Indigo Xtreme Tim?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Anyone in this club uses Indigo Xtreme Tim?


I wanted, but I use badly applied noctua paste. It was quite in night and my hands were shaky because I received the board.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sb-e is known to throttle on this board some times. Follow these directions, may help.
> 
> This board requires a great deal more manual tuning compared to other boards w/ auto-settings.


Thank you so, so much for this info, I was struggling keeping my cpu stable at a measly 4.0 and this did the trick, thought vrms were throttling and almost went out to buy a bigger case with more fans. Now all I need to do is find the right voltage to run this baby. Thank you for posting that!


----------



## webhito

As I have already Stated, I'm a complete noob when it comes to overclocking, my now 4.0ghz 3970x is running at around 75c, I have tried manual voltage, offset and a few other things through trial and error but can't seem to get a low voltage as I would want. It seems to be on auto no matter what I do going up to 1.38 volts which seems to be too high. Are there any settings I could try to get those volts under control? Thanks a bunch!


----------



## Raghar

What voltage are you using?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Anyone in this club uses Indigo Xtreme Tim?


I have used it in the past, I have like 6 sheets for 115x...
What do you need to know?


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> What voltage are you using?


Tried 1.2 as manual but it still goes up to whatever the hell it wants usually up to 1.38, offset does the exact same thing.


----------



## Raghar

I changed few things, and I booted into Windows with 1866 MHz speeds. While it doesn't seem much, I can do that at 1.35V. I just changed one value, and entered few values as a guess, and it stopped hard crashes when booting at higher frequencies than 1600 MHz JEDEC.


----------



## Zimzoid

May i join please


----------



## Mega Man

welcome !!~

in other news i have now added HSA to my arsenal ! and i may get a second cause the pric is so sexay ( board and cpu for 210 ! ) @ microcenter, the second board is really the reason i am considering as i have never done an itx build ( not that i dont have enough to do now ) now i just need to sit back and get some cash back and some time to finish these 2 and ill do my a10 !


----------



## skupples

I can't wait for AMD's HSA to actually be competent @ the high end gaming tasks.


----------



## Mega Man

i really dont think it is going to take as long as some, but at the same time i dont think it will happen over night either. and hsa + mantle ...... dear god !


----------



## xarot

If I want to try another higher binned RAM, would G.Skill TridentX work fine with this board?

This time only 16 GB to figure things out and now to steer away from Corsair kits. Would this work? F3-2400C10Q-16GTX, G.Skill 16GB (4 x 4GB) TridentX, DDR3 2400MHz, CL10, 1.65V

Shutdowns/no shutdowns?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have used it in the past, I have like 6 sheets for 115x...
> What do you need to know?


I'd like to know infamous reflow issue? seems you gave up using IX, what thermal you're using now?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> As for the SLI links, I went with the bitspower sli adjustable links so I don't cover the sexiness of the RIVBE board and EK backplates. Downside is it costs more than the EK sli bridge... that's if you go parallel since you have to buy 4 for tri-sli or 6 for quad.


could you post the product page or purchase page of this bitspower sli adjustable link? thanks


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> If I want to try another higher binned RAM, would G.Skill TridentX work fine with this board?
> 
> This time only 16 GB to figure things out and now to steer away from Corsair kits. Would this work? F3-2400C10Q-16GTX, G.Skill 16GB (4 x 4GB) TridentX, DDR3 2400MHz, CL10, 1.65V
> 
> Shutdowns/no shutdowns?


As long as you have an IB-E processor, which it looks like you have a 4960, that'll be a breeze. I have a 4930k with the 4x8GB CL10 Trident Kit, and following THIS i was able to to get the XMP profile for the ram at 4.3 GHz with like 1.15V Core

I haven't tried OC'ing the ram yet, but you'll definitely be able to get the advertised specs with IB-E without your CPU or BE breaking a sweat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> could you post the product page or purchase page of this bitspower sli adjustable link? thanks


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_766&zenid=60f4f7fcf79bdf2aacc12cc8ae8399f0


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I had a AVEXIR set in my Black Edition i just sold them on Ebay here, mine caused my Mobo to Random Crashes when OC to 2400C10 fine @ 1600. But who buys 2400 ram to be left @ 1600!!
> 
> So i got some G.SKILL RIPJAWS Z SERIES 2133Mhz 16gb Quad Set, Brilliant 100% stable and helped me to lower my Vcore Voltage with out losing Stability.
> 
> Also today i easy OC the Ram to 2400Mhz @ 10-12-12-35 @ 1.65volts Cycle time set at 335.
> 
> 1, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
> 
> If the middle serial number is 1400 then there is a good chance that the IC's are HYNIX!! As everyone said 2500 Samsung ones if your lucky!!
> 
> AJ.


NICE!!!! Glad to see someone else with this ram! I got for my Build hope it works as good for me as it did for you.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I'd like to know infamous reflow issue? seems you gave up using IX, what thermal you're using now?


Its not an issue its just a pain in the ass. You have to lay your computer on its side completwly level. Turn off pumps let the CPU hit 90c then you crank down the heat sink and turn pumps on. I'm using cool labs liquid ultra even though it slowly eats copper.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so far ive had absolutely 0 issues with my board in any way :x maybe i just got lucky.


Same after reading up and really taking time to look around in the BIOS, I realized how easily it is for people to feel that the board has an issue. This board is like switching from an Automatic to a Manual shift car (w/o paddle shifters) when you've never driven one before.

Most things you have to fine tune. Though why they removed the auto tune is beyond me, but I guess they wanted to give it a decked out panel for changing EVERY literal thing. So if you don't know what makes what do what then you're bound to run into issues.

From what I've gained and learned, it's best to set what you know and set auto what you don't, then take the readings the board gives for those and work your way down.

For VSAA and VTT as well I highly recommend setting 130% if you're having stability issues. This will give you room to work with until you pin point things. Don't rush with clocking everything at once and just take your time one step at a time.

I finished my build somewhat a month ago, and first week ran on stock alone. After which took the plunge and ran into RAM issues.
After fixing those, then CPU, after finding my optimal settings I've created profiles for each so I know what to switch to.

This past week has been a fun run w/ my GPU's, after which a few tips from skupps I'm running beautifully and pushing 1330 on my Core and still room to go @ 1.25v course the temps are hitting mid 40's now but that's probably due to no ventilation for my room w/ the door closed lol. Hits about 39-41 when the doors open.

Either way I HIGHLY recommend that since you guys spent the 500$ to get this board that you spend some time getting familiar w/ how the settings work and what affects what in terms of power, offset, etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> 
> 
> May i join please


Welcome!!!!

and I think I may have missed 1 or 2 so I'm going to have to rescan through the thread. Anyone else I missed or doesn't see their name on the OP please let me know!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> If I want to try another higher binned RAM, would G.Skill TridentX work fine with this board?
> 
> This time only 16 GB to figure things out and now to steer away from Corsair kits. Would this work? F3-2400C10Q-16GTX, G.Skill 16GB (4 x 4GB) TridentX, DDR3 2400MHz, CL10, 1.65V
> 
> Shutdowns/no shutdowns?


From what I hear the X kits seem to be stellar, at least according to a few here. Double sided etc. I'm going to have a 64gb kit sent today.

Also INTERESTING find by a G Skill rep. This was in response to a forum question on the difference between the RipJaws and the Trident series.

So now I think they're trying to skimp out on memory and downgrade me by saying to go for the RJ's lol..








Quote:


> The difference is in the chips. The extreme performance Trident X series will perform tremendously over the standard RipJaws DDR3-1600. You're talking 1000MHz (effective) between the two, so that's quite a difference.
> 
> No issues with CPU coolers. For the Trident X, you can remove the fins and they will fit like normal memory.
> 
> Thank you
> GSKILL SUPPORT


----------



## webhito

Have to agree with LunaP, the amount of options this board has is ridiculous, I must admit I got into something much more complicated than I wished lol.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So now I think they're trying to skimp out on memory and downgrade me by saying to go for the RJ's lol..


They might have completely different batches of chips going into sticks now compared to when that was posted, Luna. Just something to keep in mind.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> They might have completely different batches of chips going into sticks now compared to when that was posted, Luna. Just something to keep in mind.


Ah! There you are , and yeah I kept that in mind just that post was actually really recent. Dec 13th 2013 I believe.

You mentioned you were talking to the Rep's last week, did you ever get some feedback on it?


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> They might have completely different batches of chips going into sticks now compared to when that was posted, Luna. Just something to keep in mind.


Imo, Gskill Z and TridentX 4GB up to 2400 use either CFR/BFR or Samsung. For 2600 and higher CFR for cas 11, 12 and Samsung for cas 10.

For Z and TridentX 2933/3000 should be MFR single sided


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Imo, Gskill Z and TridentX 4GB up to 2400 use either CFR/BFR or Samsung. For 2600 and higher CFR for cas 11, 12 and Samsung for cas 10.
> 
> For Z and TridentX 2933/3000 should be MFR single sided


You are probably right, but I asked anyway.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> You mentioned you were talking to the Rep's last week, did you ever get some feedback on it?


Not yet, but they don't always give IC info. So meh. What centvalny posted above is the same for nearly any memory maker right now...it's just what each IC is capable of. They are all quite different, and fully explored, at this point. Sometimes there are hidden gems among lower parts, but...these guys make their money binning this stuff anyway.

for benching, old PSC is the ticket. I found some old 2133 9-10-9 1.5V Dominator GTs to try.


----------



## centvalny

I guess 3000+ would be the end of it. Probably they already busy with ddr4 for computex in June


----------



## LunaP

I just need to know what's best to tell them to send me for 64gb @ 2400 they're waiting on a response. I like the looks of the X's better. Even though X's state dual channel I'm positive that's all taken care of in the CPU so they'd be fine doing quad as no difference.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I just need to know what's best to tell them to send me for 64gb @ 2400 they're waiting on a response. I like the looks of the X's better. Even though X's state dual channel I'm positive that's all taken care of in the CPU so they'd be fine doing quad as no difference.


if they are recommending a kit they have already, I'd take it, personally. I mean, they don't really need to replace anything for you here... you bought two kits that do not work together, and they offered to replace those kits with one complete kit that's pre-tested.







Might as well bite the bullet and get up and running.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> if they are recommending a kit they have already, I'd take it, personally. I mean, they don't really need to replace anything for you here... you bought two kits that do not work together, and they offered to replace those kits with one complete kit that's pre-tested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might as well bite the bullet and get up and running.


They're offering both, which is why I'm asking







I can only pick one of the 2 lol









They're ALSO the ones that told me the 2 kits would work fine together lol , which is the email I showed them which is WHY they're RMA'ing lol.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> They're offering both, which is why I'm asking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can only pick one of the 2 lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're ALSO the ones that told me the 2 kits would work fine together lol , which is the email I showed them which is WHY they're RMA'ing lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> They're offering both, which is why I'm asking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can only pick one of the 2 lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're ALSO the ones that told me the 2 kits would work fine together lol , which is the email I showed them which is WHY they're RMA'ing lol.


Pick one. Point is that they're gonna be relatively the same thing. if it's 2133/2400, same stuff.


----------



## gdubc

Cadaveca, do you have much experience with avexir? I saw you tested that one kit, but it was a ridiculous fast and $$$$$ kit. Have you tried any others?


----------



## navynuke499

Anyone have any trouble getting 2400 ram stable on 100 base clock? i keep having issues, but it runs like a champ at 2666 on 125 base clock.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> They're offering both, which is why I'm asking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can only pick one of the 2 lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're ALSO the ones that told me the 2 kits would work fine together lol , which is the email I showed them which is WHY they're RMA'ing lol.


Don't bite the hand that's feeding you and grab one of them fast. You know you want to enter living hell called RAM overclocing on RIV BE.

BTW this is my current 4.3 GHz. I don't want to go higher until Asus release a new BIOS, or three.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> *Don't bite the hand that's feeding you and grab one of them fast*. You know you want to enter living hell called RAM overclocing on RIV BE.


You're quoting me but you're responding like I said something else.

Simply put G Skill is offering 2 different Kits, I simply want to know what the better choice would be of the 2. How the heck is that biting the hand that feeds me?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Cadaveca, do you have much experience with avexir? I saw you tested that one kit, but it was a ridiculous fast and $$$$$ kit. Have you tried any others?


Nah, just got that one kit. I'd love if they'd send me more, of course. I'm still buried in motherboards though, so I'm not too overly keen on asking for more samples right now...I've just been taking what gets offered rather than seeking anything out, but with DDR4 coming soon, I need to start talking to people anyway. I have go back to school in the fall, so need to be careful with budgeting my time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> You're quoting me but you're responding like I said something else.
> 
> Simply put G Skill is offering 2 different Kits, I simply want to know what the better choice would be of the 2. How the heck is that biting the hand that feeds me?


That's the thing with ram...take the highest-clocked kit, and if they are the same speed, but different heatsinks, then chances are, there is ZERO difference. At the same time, different sticks get different SPD on them, and one product line may have SPD that works better with 2011 than the other. Right now, TridentX is Haswell-focused, so the recommendation of taking Ripjaws, makes sense, since this should ease your frustration due to SPD.


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Don't bite the hand that's feeding you and grab one of them fast. You know you want to enter living hell called RAM overclocing on RIV BE.
> 
> BTW this is my current 4.3 GHz. I don't want to go higher until Asus release a new BIOS, or three.


Does anyone know what benchmark software this is?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Does anyone know what benchmark software this is?


aida64 GPU Compute test.


----------



## rabidz7

RAM is easy on my Mac. Pop 8 DIMMs in, flip some DIP switches and boot! 64GB of DDR2 1066MHz.


----------



## BaldGuy

Does anyone have Asus Ai Charger showing up on your system tray? I have the Asus Suite running and AI Charger shows up in my task manager but won't show up on my system tray? My phone does charge with USB ports, but does that on all computers without Ai Charger.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> Anyone have any trouble getting 2400 ram stable on 100 base clock? i keep having issues, but it runs like a champ at 2666 on 125 base clock.


Its not an issue its just a pain in the ass. You have to lay your computer on its side completwly level. Turn off pumps let the CPU hit 90c then you crank down the heat sink and turn pumps on. I'm using cool labs liquid ultra even though it slowly eats copper.

It's recommended to use strap 125 for clocks over 2133.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Does anyone have Ausus Ai Charger showing up on your system tray? I have the Asus Suite running and AI Charger shows up in my task manager but won't show up on my system tray? My phone does charge with USB ports, but does that on all computers without Ai Charger.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Simply put G Skill is offering 2 different Kits, I simply want to know what the better choice would be of the 2. How the heck is that biting the hand that feeds me?


You are biting them by your hesitation. Decide on one and show them your interest and appreciation. (Too bad they are using emails and they will not get your letter full of saliva stains. ^_^)

As Cadaveca said they are nearly the same. (look at reviews and benchmarks, also at voltage scaling) Z has SPD set for Ivy-E, X for HW. But considering you are taking them for overclocking and you'd be highly likely typing these setting by hand because the default settings on RIVE BE is insane, it's a questionable advantage. You can also choose them by picking the heatsink you like. Look at my RAM. Do you think I hesitated more than 3 months before I chosen them?

And don't forget a simple rule 8 slots require one notch lower speed. So when your CPU worked well with 4 slots at 2133, it might work well with 8 slots at 1866.

(Basically you are thinking about CL10 at 2400 vs CL9 at 2133. Well they might be one chip. 2400/10 is nearly the same as 2133/9. Note however when your RAM will not run at 2400, you have right to complain only when you use 2400 MHz chips to begin with. But considering you want them for a lot of RAM, I doubt this would be important factor.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabidz7*
> 
> RAM is easy on my Mac. Pop 8 DIMMs in, flip some DIP switches and boot! 64GB of DDR2 1066MHz.


Congratulation.

Actually I wanted to say a witty remark about MAC, but I discovered I don't remember any funny and witty. BTW why did you move from a sweet 64 GB, to mere 16 GB?


----------



## kpoeticg

Can anybody link me to any type of decent BIOS/OC guide that goes in depth and is relevant to the BE?

I'm having fun with the BIOS and i think i'm on my way to getting 4.7/2400 CL10 stable with my 4930k, but i'm also kind of randomly upping VTT/VTT2/PLL/VCCSA/& (obviously) VCore, along with some of the DIGI+ Power Control Settings and other random voltages. I did buy an OC warranty from Intel just in case, but i'd like to learn a deeper understanding of what i'm doing

Also, the benefits/disadvantages of Core Ratio vs BCLK Frequency....

Thanx in advance


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I need to find a new 4930K, apparently the new chips and with BXXX batch numbers. Does any one have more info that?

My local computer store is letting me pick one. So instead of "mi-ni my-ni-moe" I want to increase my chances with scoring a newer chip based on batch number.

Also, figured out that when I power on my PC and restart as soon as windows loads, I don't get BSOD. But if I don't restart I get a Random BSOD no matter what in doing. What's up with that?


----------



## enilsen16

I did everything suggested and even formatted drives and reinstalled windows. Im in the process of RMA with Newegg but they don't have any boards in stock.

Does anyone know why? Is there a ASUS rep monitoring this discussion that can comment on low stocks with newegg and amazon?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I need to find a new 4930K, apparently the new chips and with BXXX batch numbers. Does any one have more info that?
> 
> My local computer store is letting me pick one. So instead of "mi-ni my-ni-moe" I want to increase my chances with scoring a newer chip based on batch number.
> 
> Also, figured out that when I power on my PC and restart as soon as windows loads, I don't get BSOD. But if I don't restart I get a Random BSOD no matter what in doing. What's up with that?


When i upped my clock to 4.7, windows was acting similar for me. I upped my VCore a little bit and it fixed it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enilsen16*
> 
> I did everything suggested and even formatted drives and reinstalled windows. Im in the process of RMA with Newegg but they don't have any boards in stock.
> 
> Does anyone know why? Is there a ASUS rep monitoring this discussion that can comment on low stocks with newegg and amazon?


I've never seen an Asus rep in here b4. Try the ROG forums


----------



## webhito

Quick question... I have tried setting my voltage manually, with - offset, manual and auto, yet my cpu seems to do whatever the hell it wants to, voltage is stuck at 1.38 under load and sometimes peaks to over 1.39. Is there a reason its doing this? I have resetted the bios a few times to no avail, not sure if I am missing something or my board is screwed. Seems to me that these x version chips sure as hell aren't worth the extra cash for all the troubles they cause.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Can anybody link me to any type of decent BIOS/OC guide that goes in depth and is relevant to the BE?
> 
> I'm having fun with the BIOS and i think i'm on my way to getting 4.7/2400 CL10 stable with my 4930k, but i'm also kind of randomly upping VTT/VTT2/PLL/VCCSA/& (obviously) VCore, along with some of the DIGI+ Power Control Settings and other random voltages. I did buy an OC warranty from Intel just in case, but i'd like to learn a deeper understanding of what i'm doing
> 
> Also, the benefits/disadvantages of Core Ratio vs BCLK Frequency....
> 
> Thanx in advance


I would be interested in this also. I want to learn what all the little adjustments do and what they're for.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Can anybody link me to any type of decent BIOS/OC guide that goes in depth and is relevant to the BE?
> 
> Also, the benefits/disadvantages of Core Ratio vs BCLK Frequency....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I would be interested in this also. I want to learn what all the little adjustments do and what they're for.


Edited stuff about skills and money because people were touchi. Wow that rog logo isn't visible under heatsink, so I found just now it glows even when that red line is shut down.

Anyway. I should go to sleep, but I can give you basic points. That start button on MB is very useful when you need to shut down PC FAST because you did something weird, I did that 10 times in last hour. That button just under is RESET which isn't that useful because you need to keep it shut down until your hands would stop being shaky from what you did. I used it twice during last 2 hours. Then that small red button just left from the START button is very important because it allows you to boot when you screw up your RAM settings. Which would normally be solved by CLR button, which I can't use because defaults are 1.7 V on RAM which is quite bad in my case because I use 1.35 V RAM.

That covers basically basics. The rest of it would come after I'd wake up. And tomorrow, because proper explanation is a LOAD of text.
Also if you value life of your PSU, use EPU power savings light are sufficient. (Note: EPU power saving settings are harmful, kinda, in HEAVY overclocking.)

As for BCLK ratios, you don't use them, because I heard they would work properly in NEXT BIOS. Might be just rumor however.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> Quick question... I have tried setting my voltage manually, with - offset, manual and auto, yet my cpu seems to do whatever the hell it wants to, voltage is stuck at 1.38 under load and sometimes peaks to over 1.39. Is there a reason its doing this? I have resetted the bios a few times to no avail, not sure if I am missing something or my board is screwed. Seems to me that these x version chips sure as hell aren't worth the extra cash for all the troubles they cause.


Try multimeter. My board allows voltages changes without a problem. Might be just a stuck voltage sensor, or your CPU (or your MB) has problem with VID.


----------



## kpoeticg

LOL, thanx for taking the time to respond, and the helpful info in the last 2 parts of your post (EPU & BCLK)

Definitely have the buttons figured out. I use ROG connect from my laptop most of the time lately.









I'm definitely a compete n00b with BIOS and OC'ing. I'd have to gain experience to consider myself novice









My questions were more directed about the different voltage settings in the bios. Also all the bios settings in the digi+ submenu. I've been experimenting, which is fun, but i'd like to have more of an understanding. Not sure if i'm altering settings that are bad for my hardware. Thanx for the EPU tip. I hadn't even considered turning that on until you said it +rep

Get some sleep. Thanx again for taking the time to respond, i'll be here tomorrow though and i'm looking forward to whatever you can share









Edit: also so far, the DirectKey button has been the most pressed button on my mobo. Great timesaver


----------



## centvalny

Try this basic settings (I reposted here):

Use decent h2o to control heat
Use 125 for 2400+ xmp ram kit
Try 1.35Vcore to start and reduce it to find lowest possible stable setting
Exept Vcore, Vdimm and ram profile leave all settings on auto including digi+power and5 all tweaker paradise settings. No need to change unless you want to freeze the cpu.



http://imgur.com/YNalq3T





http://imgur.com/PLz2aCd





http://imgur.com/zXjptU9





http://imgur.com/hHgHVLs





http://imgur.com/vo2iLxS





http://imgur.com/JKxF7kn


----------



## kpoeticg

Interesting, thanx for the helpful post

This is why i'm trying to get a deeper understanding. I started with Raja's guide on ROG forums and found 4.3GHz with my 2400 CL10 XMP Profile would run stable all the way down to 1.150V Core.

Since then i've been working my way up to 4.7 with a ton of Prime Blend in between. And i've altered and raised at least like 60% of the voltages and digi+ settings

I feel like a bull in a china shop in my bios right now though. Would love to get more knowledge of what i'm doing

I haven't really attempted OC'ing my ram yet, i've been focused on the CPU first since the XMP profile for the ram is running smooth as silk. I've already passed a bunch of stress tests at 4.6 and i'm currently working on 4.7. It just makes me nervous how many power settings i've changed so far. Maybe i should clear cmos and start over just to be safe?

Edit: What ram kit are you running? I have the 4x8GB Trident 2400 CL10's. I haven't upped the voltage past the rated 1.65V. Should i?


----------



## centvalny

That's awesome way to start with cpu first kpoeticg. The latest bios auto settings already fully optimized all the way to LN2 settings.

The ram profiles on the other hand fully optimized for highest performance which reflected on Vdimms and tight settings. Use it as a guidance and start with more relax timings and voltages (for each type of ram chip)


----------



## webhito

Another thing that I have noticed is that under the bios setting vcore is perfect, but as soon as windows loads up its not, it shoots up to 1.38 as I have explained, I can see this under coretemp.


----------



## Kimir

Have you touched the load line calibration in Digi+ at all?
If you did then it come from here.


----------



## centvalny

A few bios tips from Shamino



http://imgur.com/wcujJUp


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> That's awesome way to start with cpu first kpoeticg. The latest bios auto settings already fully optimized all the way to LN2 settings.
> 
> The ram profiles on the other hand fully optimized for highest performance which reflected on Vdimms and tight settings. Use it as a guidance and start with more relax timings and voltages (for each type of ram chip)


Thanx again









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> Another thing that I have noticed is that under the bios setting vcore is perfect, but as soon as windows loads up its not, it shoots up to 1.38 as I have explained, I can see this under coretemp.


As @Kimir just said, Load Line Calibration affects that. I'm still trying to learn about this stuff too, but i've noticed a few settings in bios that seem to affect what you're describing.

My Core V in windows jumps around too. I've messed with the Load Line Calibration Settings between Auto, Extreme, Very High, and High. I haven't finished tweaking yet though and i'm cooling with a custom loop so i'm not stressing it right now.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Try multimeter. My board allows voltages changes without a problem. Might be just a stuck voltage sensor, or your CPU (or your MB) has problem with VID.


I actually grabbed a multimeter and it seems that core temp is giving me false numbers, you were right on the money, voltage wise its doing what its supposed to, this is the first time ever coretemp has given me false readings... Now I don't know what to trust lol.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> I actually grabbed a multimeter and it seems that core temp is giving me false numbers, you were right on the money, voltage wise its doing what its supposed to, this is the first time ever coretemp has given me false readings... Now I don't know what to trust lol.


trust the DMM


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> A few bios tips from Shamino
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


He only talks about "Normal Air" and LN2 Lol. What about us WC'ers. Any personal opinion on any of that applied to a custom loop?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Thanks a loooot. very good summary.
> just one point I think you're wrong. For EK-FC Titan SE (Original CSQ) - Nickel, it only works with EK-FC Bridge & Link CSQ system.
> By the way, which linking system is more efficient and preferable? EK-FC Bridge & Link CSQ system or FC Terminal system?
> 
> 
> 
> There's only one link system for titan blocks.
> 
> the ones with the circles (CSQ) will NOT fit on a titan block. The porting is different, & CSQ only has one screw mount. The titan blocks have 3x screws.
> CSQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FC-Terminal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I like copper, it has much better color and feel for black boards especially when used as fins and heatpipes. Coloring, or plating, is unnecessary for copper.
> 
> Anodising aluminium is sensible, because it oxidizes readily, but aside of that and aside of gold/silver plating, plating is often unnecessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> gold plated blocks are double plated. Copper block, then nickel plate, then gold plate.
Click to expand...

The best Bridge & Link for GTX TITAN (and not only) is the one that you will make your self


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I though people here are professionals. People with job and money that must prove theirs skills every day. Wow that rog logo isn't visible under heatsink, so I found just now it glows even when that red line is shut down.
> 
> Anyway. I should go to sleep, but I can give you basic points. That start button on MB is very useful when you need to shut down PC FAST because you did something weird, I did that 10 times in last hour. That button just under is RESET which isn't that useful because you need to keep it shut down until your hands would stop being shaky from what you did. I used it twice during last 2 hours. Then that small red button just left from the START button is very important because it allows you to boot when you screw up your RAM settings. Which would normally be solved by CLR button, which I can't use because defaults are 1.7 V on RAM which is quite bad in my case because I use 1.35 V RAM.


Although your response is appreciated, the sarcasm contained within it is not. I believe that most people that would be asking questions in this forum would have the knowledge and the intelligence to figure out what the start and reset button are for, also considering if you were to purchase this motherboard and have to install it, it would at least require some "working knowledge of computer components" and that would definitely cover the start and reset buttons included on this motherboard.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Try this basic settings (I reposted here):
> 
> Use decent h2o to control heat
> Use 125 for 2400+ xmp ram kit
> Try 1.35Vcore to start and reduce it to find lowest possible stable setting
> Exept Vcore, Vdimm and ram profile leave all settings on auto including digi+power and5 all tweaker paradise settings. No need to change unless you want to freeze the cpu.


Thanks ill have to try this out when my board arrives!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Although your response is appreciated, the sarcasm contained within it is not. I believe that most people that would be asking questions in this forum would have the knowledge and the intelligence to figure out what the start and reset button are for, also considering if you were to purchase this motherboard and have to install it, it would at least require some "working knowledge of computer components" and that would definitely cover the start and reset buttons included on this motherboard.


Yeah, I have no idea why he started out with that garble about "professionals @ money"

He must not realize that the avg age of OCN is like 20 years old, not really a "professional & monied" age, but he's typically an ass in 99% of his posts.

PoeticG is looking for info most of us don't have the answers to. My OC knowledge is "turn this up until it works." I think he's looking for what each voltage actually effects. Which I can't answer outside of VID/VTT/VCCSA.


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I though people here are professionals. People with job and money that must prove theirs skills every day. Wow that rog logo isn't visible under heatsink, so I found just now it glows even when that red line is shut down.
> As for BCLK ratios, you don't use them, because I heard they would work properly in NEXT BIOS. Might be just rumor however.
> Try multimeter. My board allows voltages changes without a problem. Might be just a stuck voltage sensor, or your CPU (or your MB) has problem with VID.


Both (2) retail and (2) beta bioses already almost perfect, I can say this because I play with it since September with early ES rev. 1.01 board @ IDF SF'13 RIVBE coming out party....Even now I'm still learning the bios


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah, I have no idea why he started out with that garble about "professionals @ money"
> 
> He must not realize that the avg age of OCN is like 20 years old, not really a "professional & monied" age, but he's typically an ass in 99% of his posts.
> 
> PoeticG is looking for info most of us don't have the answers to. My OC knowledge is "turn this up until it works." I think he's looking for what each voltage actually effects. Which I can't answer outside of VID/VTT/VCCSA.


Glad you saw it too and it wasn't just me. Anyways I posted that question about doing a overclocking video on the ASUS PCDIY youtube channel on the build that JJ did with the BE. Haven't had a response yet. I don't want a this is how you do it guide. I would like a guide that starts this is where you start and this is what to look for and an explanation of what the items you would adjust to make it stable etc. I can overclock the heck out of a standard Ivy bridge so I know my way around the bios enough to get me by there. But this is going to be a whole new learning curve for me. Can't wait to get it together and get started should have my board next week sometime.


----------



## centvalny

I think first we have to test the limitation of cpu on air or h20, some IvyB-e chip can easily boot up stable @ 4.5Ghz with only 1.2Vcore while other need 1.35V+. Pretty much this is an absolute regardless of bios settings.
Based on cpu scaling then we can play with ram overclocking to optimize the board.
Just my 2c


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Although your response is appreciated, the sarcasm contained within it is not. I believe that most people that would be asking questions in this forum would have the knowledge and the intelligence to figure out what the start and reset button are for, also considering if you were to purchase this motherboard and have to install it, it would at least require some "working knowledge of computer components" and that would definitely cover the start and reset buttons included on this motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I have no idea why he started out with that garble about "professionals @ money"
> 
> He must not realize that the avg age of OCN is like 20 years old, not really a "professional & monied" age, but he's typically an ass in 99% of his posts.
> 
> PoeticG is looking for info most of us don't have the answers to. My OC knowledge is "turn this up until it works." I think he's looking for what each voltage actually effects. Which I can't answer outside of VID/VTT/VCCSA.
Click to expand...

Since he said he needed to go to sleep, i was giving him the benefit of the doubt about the sarcasm since sometimes i say stupid stuff on here when i'm overdue for some zzzzz's.

But yeah, i was definitely asking about the specific voltages/settings and what they affect. And what's safe and what's dangerous. Since i'm a n00b OC'er, i didn't know if some of it was readily available knowledge.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Glad you saw it too and it wasn't just me. Anyways I posted that question about doing a overclocking video on the ASUS PCDIY youtube channel on the build that JJ did with the BE. Haven't had a response yet. I don't want a this is how you do it guide. I would like a guide that starts this is where you start and this is what to look for and an explanation of what the items you would adjust to make it stable etc. I can overclock the heck out of a standard Ivy bridge so I know my way around the bios enough to get me by there. But this is going to be a whole new learning curve for me. Can't wait to get it together and get started should have my board next week sometime.


Dunno if you've looked at this yet, but THIS is a great place to get started for IB-E. It definitely got me up and running with getting my memory kit and cpu setup with basic oc's. It's worth a read if you haven't seen it b4


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Since he said he needed to go to sleep, i was giving him the benefit of the doubt about the sarcasm since sometimes i say stupid stuff on here when i'm overdue for some zzzzz's.
> 
> But yeah, i was definitely asking about the specific voltages/settings and what they affect. And what's safe and what's dangerous. Since i'm a n00b OC'er, i didn't know if some of it was readily available knowledge.
> 
> Dunno if you've looked at this yet, but THIS is a great place to get started for IB-E. It definitely got me up and running with getting my memory kit and cpu setup with basic oc's. It's worth a read if you haven't seen it b4


Yes I have that bookmarked! Can't wait to get started! My build is in my sig hope its up to par. Should have major parts in sometime in next week and the smaller remaining when I can. This is going to be a def bucket list build for me...lol


----------



## kpoeticg

My CPU's seeming pretty stable at 4.7GHz-1.39V Core. Temps ranging between 50-53*C Core in my temporary XT45 360/Apogee Drive II loop during Prime95 Blend. Wonder if i have enough headroom for a stable 4.8 daily clock. Only one way to find out


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> My CPU's seeming pretty stable at 4.7GHz-1.39V Core. Temps ranging between 50-53*C Core in my temporary XT45 360/Apogee Drive II loop during Prime95 Blend. Wonder if i have enough headroom for a stable 4.8 daily clock. Only one way to find out


Nice i'll be on a H100i so as long as i can get 4.4 out of it I will be happy. But the more the merrier!


----------



## USFORCES

4.7-4.8GHz would come in handy if your running 4x 290x with demanding games or benching other than that it's not needed to surf the web.
Save it in your BIOS profile then when you plan on playing load it up otherwise your wasting electricity not to mention 1.39v 24/7 is possibility shorting your CPU's life.

Surfing and everyday stuff 80% of the time


Gaming 18% of the time


Benching maybe 2% of the time 4.8GHz- 5.0GHz


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for the wisdom









I will be running 3 290x's. But what your saying makes sense about Over-Clocking/Volting when it's not needed

That's why i've been asking for advice


----------



## asfgbdnf

can anybody recommend a thermal paste cleanser? i'm using MX-2 at this moment. Thanks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> can anybody recommend a thermal paste cleanser? i'm using MX-2 at this moment. Thanks


+90% isopropyl alcohol and a few coffee filters works best for me.

If you really feel you need to buy a specialized product Arcticlean is good and Coollaboratory's cleaning set is very good, but both are unnecessary unless maybe you're trying to clean up some of the damage done by a coollaboratory product.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> +90% isopropyl alcohol and a few coffee filters works best for me.
> 
> If you really feel you need to buy a specialized product Arcticlean is good and Coollaboratory's cleaning set is very good, but both are unnecessary unless maybe you're trying to clean up some of the damage done by a coollaboratory product.


are these cleansers, for example Arcticlean, widely applied to any thermal paste?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> can anybody recommend a thermal paste cleanser? i'm using MX-2 at this moment. Thanks


If you want the best search for the highest price. This is what I have tested
1. Coollaboratory Ultra Liquid
2. IC Diamond 24 Carat
3. Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> If you want the best search for the highest price.
> 1. Coollaboratory Ultra Liquid
> 2. IC Diamond 24 Carat
> 3. Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond


sir, I'm looking for thermal paste cleanser, not thermal paste.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> are these cleansers, for example Arcticlean, widely applied to any thermal paste?


Yeah, they are made to remove any thermal paste, not just their own brands.

Cleaners are highly unnecessary though imho. Even with paste that's been on for years I've never had any trouble cleaning it up in no time with a high-purity isopropyl alcohol. Usually I'll try to wipe away all the TIM I can first with a dry coffee filter, then I'll use a filter or two doused in alcohol to wipe it clean / shine it up. Sometimes I'll make a pass with an alcohol-soaked q-tip also, but I always finish with a coffee filter to make sure the surface is shiny clean and lint-free.

Edit: If you're really dead-set on something stronger than alcohol by itself, then I'd suggest getting a bottle of Goof Off cleaner. You'll get 10x as much of every bit as strong if not more-so of a cleaner for about the same price as the arcticclean set. When done initially cleaning with the Goof Off, then finish with some alcohol.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 4.7-4.8GHz would come in handy if your running 4x 290x with demanding games or benching other than that it's not needed to surf the web.
> Save it in your BIOS profile then when you plan on playing load it up otherwise your wasting electricity not to mention 1.39v 24/7 is possibility shorting your CPU's life.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Surfing and everyday stuff 80% of the time
> 
> 
> Gaming 18% of the time
> 
> 
> Benching maybe 2% of the time 4.8GHz- 5.0GHz


Good advice... after seeing my last electric bill... LOL..

I do have several BIOS profiles saved, but I'm lazy switching and loading saved profiles. Swtiched to offset voltage instead fixed manual voltage for now.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> can anybody recommend a thermal paste cleanser? i'm using MX-2 at this moment. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> +90% isopropyl alcohol and a few coffee filters works best for me.
> 
> If you really feel you need to buy a specialized product Arcticlean is good and Coollaboratory's cleaning set is very good, but both are unnecessary unless maybe you're trying to clean up some of the damage done by a coollaboratory product.
Click to expand...

That's right, coollaboratory product will give you +90% isopropyl alcohol and also the kit to fix the damages








If your cpu lost the serial number with this product, you may also lost the warranty....why don't take a picture of the cpu info before applying the coollaborator product


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> aquacomputer. you need an aquaero or a MK4 tower. Great stuff!
> 
> like so:


I need to plant temperature sensors in order to support temp monitoring, right?
Which aquaero is the best model?
I can see most model only support 4 temperature sensors, what I can do if i need more?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> aquacomputer. you need an aquaero or a MK4 tower. Great stuff!
> 
> like so:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to plant temperature sensors in order to support temp monitoring, right?
> Which aquaero is the best model?
> I can see most model only support 4 temperature sensors, what I can do if i need more?
Click to expand...

As this guy already show you buy a real External Water Cooling System Aquacomputer Aquaduct 720 XT Mark IV or V Ceramic (4+ yours 2, temp. sensors)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> are these cleansers, for example Arcticlean, widely applied to any thermal paste?


Indigo Xtreme clean is the most hardcore cleaner I have ever come across. Makes 99% alcohol look like water. It's expensive, but iv'e been using the same bottle for almost a year.


----------



## gdubc

The Arcticlean always works good for me, and it is a fair price.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I need to plant temperature sensors in order to support temp monitoring, right?
> Which aquaero is the best model?
> I can see most model only support 4 temperature sensors, what I can do if i need more?


The Mk4 or Aquaero6 have additional sensors, but the software works with open hardware monitor to pick up all readings it has. Water in/out are add-on for teh AQ6, built into the external units (360 and 720). My Mk4 has been running for almost 2 years (24/7) and is an amazing piece of kit. Nothing else on the market is close.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> The Mk4 or Aquaero6 have additional sensors, but the software works with open hardware monitor to pick up all readings it has. Water in/out are add-on for teh AQ6, built into the external units (360 and 720). My Mk4 has been running for almost 2 years (24/7) and is an amazing piece of kit. Nothing else on the market is close.


it also works with hardware info 64 which provides a few more sensors open Hardware Monitor only report CPU and GPU. Hardware info reports BRM chipset socket and the regular stuff


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> *4.7-4.8GHz would come in handy if your running 4x 290x with demanding games or benching other than that it's not needed to surf the web.*
> Save it in your BIOS profile then when you plan on playing load it up otherwise your wasting electricity not to mention 1.39v 24/7 is possibility shorting your CPU's life.
> 
> Benching maybe 2% of the time 4.8GHz- 5.0GHz


Hmmm So you think 4.7-4.8 would make or break the difference in Tri SLI games vs running 4.5? Since I"m having dips in frame rates only when moving the camera view around after which it stabilizes. I"m 1.225v @ 4.5ghz atm so I can try bumping to 4.7 @ 1.275


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmmm So you think 4.7-4.8 would make or break the difference in Tri SLI games vs running 4.5? Since I"m having dips in frame rates only when moving the camera view around after which it stabilizes. I"m 1.225v @ 4.5ghz atm so I can try bumping to 4.7 @ 1.275


I'd push up to 1.35V without thinking about it, if temps were in control.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Dunno if you've looked at this yet, but THIS is a great place to get started for IB-E. It definitely got me up and running with getting my memory kit and cpu setup with basic oc's. It's worth a read if you haven't seen it b4


Thanks a bunch! Just what I needed!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmmm So you think 4.7-4.8 would make or break the difference in Tri SLI games vs running 4.5? Since I"m having dips in frame rates only when moving the camera view around after which it stabilizes. I"m 1.225v @ 4.5ghz atm so I can try bumping to 4.7 @ 1.275


what you would want to do is find a program that can/will utilize the GPU's to 99% (3dmark fire extreme)... Run @ 4.5, see if you are getting 99% when you SHOULD be getting 99%, if not, increase cpu clock.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> what you would want to do is find a program that can/will utilize the GPU's to 99% (3dmark fire extreme)... Run @ 4.5, see if you are getting 99% when you SHOULD be getting 99%, if not, increase cpu clock.


Exactly!









Valley works for this as well.

Oddly, I found that the finalfantasy exploration benchmark is good for vram stability testing.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Exactly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Valley works for this as well.
> 
> Oddly, I found that the finalfantasy exploration benchmark is good for vram stability testing.


Yeah, valley should work well, unless you run into the strange gpu usage situations multiple people have been reporting in the bench thread. Certain scenes will drop down to 30-40% even though there is obviously no CPU bottle neck. People have been blaming it on drivers/win8


----------



## webhito

May I join?


----------



## skupples




----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmmm So you think 4.7-4.8 would make or break the difference in Tri SLI games vs running 4.5? Since I"m having dips in frame rates only when moving the camera view around after which it stabilizes. I"m 1.225v @ 4.5ghz atm so I can try bumping to 4.7 @ 1.275


General rule for Ivy-E for max 24/7 life is 1.4v and below 80c at max load. You can go above 1.4v if you want, but you're going to run into diminishing returns for performance vs cpu life. As for temperature I personally would always stay below 80c, especially when going 1.4v+
You should also post your bios settings or pm me


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> General rule for Ivy-E for max 24/7 life is 1.4v and below 80c at max load. You can go above 1.4v if you want, but you're going to run into diminishing returns for performance vs cpu life. As for temperature I personally would always stay below 80c, especially when going 1.4v+
> You should also post your bios settings or pm me


Totaly right and sign that !


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The Arcticlean always works good for me, and it is a fair price.


+1 This is the only one i've ever used. The two bottles (cleaner and purifier) have lasted a long time.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> May I join?


Welcome!!!!


----------



## Arviel

Hey guys~ is it advisable to turn on Speedtep after i've found a stable overclock? that way my cpu is not constantly running at max vcore.

Putting my system together tomorrow~


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arviel*
> 
> Hey guys~ is it advisable to turn on Speedtep after i've found a stable overclock? that way my cpu is not constantly running at max vcore.
> 
> Putting my system together tomorrow~


That's what I did. Not sure if it's advisable... but it's my preference for now. I played with manual voltage settings to see I could get stable... and be comfortable with my everyday setup. For my everyday setup, I wanted to stay below 1.30 v... so 4.5Mhz @ 1.25v (1.267 in CPUz) is what was working well for me. Then I changed to offset voltage, but LLC preset voltage settings made it hard for me to get to 1.267v without overshooting 1.3v, or undershooting at idle. Best I could do is 45x @ 1.28v, and 12x @ ~0.864v at idle. That is still acceptable to me... and it's been running solid for me. During gaming my temps are in the low to mid 40's on my CPU and all 3 GPU's. CPU and GPU idle temps mid to upper 20's. When I'm just web browsing or non gaming activities... the multiplier seems to range from 12x to 34x and vcore fluctuates between 0.864 to 1.12v. I think it's nice to know that my core voltage is not fixed at 1.267v the whole time... but I don't think it will harm anything. It's just preference and nice option to have in a motherboard.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arviel*
> 
> Hey guys~ is it advisable to turn on Speedtep after i've found a stable overclock? that way my cpu is not constantly running at max vcore.
> 
> Putting my system together tomorrow~


Sure why not? as long as your not crashing when gaming or running demanding programs or something. I use speed step and it works fine with 4.5GHz.
Otherwise save a profile with it off in the BIOS and load that profile when you need it.

Anyone play with the ROG OC panel yet?
Is the voltage reading on this thing just as accurate as a multimeter, you would think so right?


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> You are biting them by your hesitation. Decide on one and show them your interest and appreciation. (Too bad they are using emails and they will not get your letter full of saliva stains. ^_^)
> 
> As Cadaveca said they are nearly the same. (look at reviews and benchmarks, also at voltage scaling) Z has SPD set for Ivy-E, X for HW. But considering you are taking them for overclocking and you'd be highly likely typing these setting by hand because the default settings on RIVE BE is insane, it's a questionable advantage. You can also choose them by picking the heatsink you like. Look at my RAM. Do you think I hesitated more than 3 months before I chosen them?
> 
> And don't forget a simple rule 8 slots require one notch lower speed. So when your CPU worked well with 4 slots at 2133, it might work well with 8 slots at 1866.
> 
> (Basically you are thinking about CL10 at 2400 vs CL9 at 2133. Well they might be one chip. 2400/10 is nearly the same as 2133/9. Note however when your RAM will not run at 2400, you have right to complain only when you use 2400 MHz chips to begin with. But considering you want them for a lot of RAM, I doubt this would be important factor.)
> Congratulation.
> 
> Actually I wanted to say a witty remark about MAC, but I discovered I don't remember any funny and witty. BTW why did you move from a sweet 64 GB, to mere 16 GB?


Hello I'm planning to fill all 8 slots for a total 32GB 8x4GB, advise me to take 1866 or 2133? thank you ...


----------



## yttocstfarc

Well gentlemen, It has begun, got most of the remaining parts on the way! Gonna run by Microcenter next week hopefully and pick up the Processor and the Motherboard. I wonder if they will price match the lowest price on the Black Edition?...hmmmmmm. This build is coming together nicely and its gonna be EPIC. For me at least.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Well gentlemen, It has begun, got most of the remaining parts on the way! Gonna run by Microcenter next week hopefully and pick up the Processor and the Motherboard. I wonder if they will price match the lowest price on the Black Edition?...hmmmmmm. This build is coming together nicely and its gonna be EPIC. For me at least.


they should


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Well gentlemen, It has begun, got most of the remaining parts on the way! Gonna run by Microcenter next week hopefully and pick up the Processor and the Motherboard. I wonder if they will price match the lowest price on the Black Edition?...hmmmmmm. This build is coming together nicely and its gonna be EPIC. For me at least.


They price matched for me when they had the regular price as $559. They matched it to $499 and then took off another $50 for buying with a cpu, so $449. I bought the 2 year warranty also and that was like $70 or $80, but to just be able to go swap out for a new one if I had any problems was well worth it imo. Plus when you buy from them you can check out the socket bed first and make sure all looks good. No doubt about it, I absolutely love good ol microcenter!


----------



## inoran81

Greeting from Singapore!

Finally gonna the last piece of my puzzle.... R4BE Original CSQ waterblock!





Many thanks to Barbara of EKWB for her excellent service, response and resourcefulness - Also wish to specially thanks to the folks (especially Hank, Duke and Marina) in PPCS for expediting and making special orders for me - without all of you, my parts won't be complete. YOU GUYS ROCKS!

An EKWB family original CSQ water blocks build...











Now to try assemble my rig - R4BE + 4960X + Triple Titan Combo


----------



## Mogwaii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> Greeting from Singapore!
> 
> Finally gonna the last piece of my puzzle.... R4BE Original CSQ waterblock!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks to Barbara of EKWB for her excellent service, response and resourcefulness - Also wish to specially thanks to the folks (especially Hank, Duke and Marina) in PPCS for expediting and making special orders for me - without all of you, my parts won't be complete. YOU GUYS ROCKS!
> 
> An EKWB family original CSQ water blocks build...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to try assemble my rig - R4BE + 4960X + Triple Titan Combo


Lovely


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> Hello I'm planning to fill all 8 slots for a total 32GB 8x4GB, advise me to take 1866 or 2133? thank you ...


If you have money and wanna play with underclocking, you might try 2400MHz, and downclock to run it at 2133 MHz at 1.5 V. Or simply grab some 1.5 V high speed kit. 1.35 V 1866 MHz RAM would be great (when you want cold RAM, or low power consumption/stress on your PSU). Majority of 1.5 V 2133 MHz RAM are decent.

Do you need 8x4 for speed, heat dissipation, or because of cost reasons? F3-14900CL9Q2-32GBZL (9-10-9-28-2N) These looked nice, and you can ask LunaP, who is just returning his kits for experience with his G.Skill RAM.

On the other hand, 4x8 GB might be less stressful for memory controller, and have less problems with heat dissipation. (Actually I wonder what are real world differences between 8x4GB and 4x8GB.)


----------



## kpoeticg

I was under the assumption that filling all the slots gave greater performance loss. This is more reading on forums than experience with me though


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I was under the assumption that filling all the slots gave greater performance loss. This is more reading on forums than experience with me though


It's not that simple. Sometimes it pays off to have all slots filled in writing data, since it provides more places to store the data concurrently. But then accesses data, or reading, can take twice as long. It's similar to going to 8 GB from 4 GB sticks, which makes for greater latency, but not exactly the same.


----------



## kpoeticg

Interesting. Thanx


----------



## BRRIVBE

Hi,

tried o find na answer in this thread but couldn't. Is there any switch or combination of PCIe cards that turns off the 6th PCIe slot. This slot is not functional in my mb no matter what card I put in it.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BRRIVBE*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> tried o find na answer in this thread but couldn't. Is there any switch or combination of PCIe cards that turns off the 6th PCIe slot. This slot is not functional in my mb no matter what card I put in it.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Could be this. #4 would be the bottom slot ...


----------



## webhito

As Unicr0nhunter posted thats the only switch I am aware that can turn off your pci-e lanes, and to be honest its one of the features I love the most.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, the 1-4 dip switches are controlling the 4 8x/16x slots. So the 6th slot would be switch #4. There's no switches for the 1x slots

If you're trying to run a single GPU off that slot i'm not sure if it would work. You're supposed to put single GPU's in the first slot, or at least the 3rd if for some reason you can't use the first


----------



## Zimzoid

Would there be any benefits in turning off the slots that are not in use?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Would there be any benefits in turning off the slots that are not in use?


Don't think there is any benefit at all. But I keep the unused slots off anyways.


----------



## szeged

the only thing i can see that being useful for is if you want to install new cards later into those lanes and sweat for a few hours wondering why your new cards wont turn on only to look over and the pci-e switches are off


----------



## cadaveca

Slot #3 (x16 electrical slot #2) doesn't work with my SB-E when electrical #1 is populated. Can only fill slots with x16/x8/x8, x16/x16 doesn't work. Enabling PCIe 2.0 gives "70" POST error.

With 780 Ti SLi only though,7970's worked fine.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Slot #3 (x16 electrical slot #2) doesn't work with my SB-E.


seems like an issue. Works fine for me, or my tri-sli wouldn't work.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> seems like an issue. Works fine for me, or my tri-sli wouldn't work.


Yeah, I blame CPU, since IVB-E works fine, typing from it now. I gotta try the SB-E in my P9X79 Deluxe and confirm what's the story, since I just got this chip back. I did test 7970's with C0 SB-E, and this one I have now is a C1.

I have no idea what the difference is between C0, C1, and C2 SB-E chips, but I suppose it could be related.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, I blame CPU, since IVB-E works fine, typing from it now. I gotta try the SB-E in my P9X79 Deluxe and confirm what's the story, since I just got this chip back. I did test 7970's with C0 SB-E, and this one I have now is a C1.
> 
> I have no idea what the difference is between C0, C1, and C2 SB-E chips, but I suppose it could be related.


I have a c2 3970x chip and running CF 290x just fine also with slot 1 and 3. Might be an Sli issue?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> or at least the 3rd if for some reason you can't use the first




You can see the reason why I can't use first slot for GFX card.

On the other hand I discovered when I plugged CPU fan to case connector, and it didn't provide enough starting voltage, that it's great passive heatsink.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's not that simple. Sometimes it pays off to have all slots filled in writing data, since it provides more places to store the data concurrently. But then accesses data, or reading, can take twice as long. It's similar to going to 8 GB from 4 GB sticks, which makes for greater latency, but not exactly the same.




Actually, I have much faster writes than reads, and it's bit puzzling. One of reasons is I had slower writes than reads with one settings, I probably overwrote.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

What does CPU VTT affect?

I only changed the Vcore, LLC and multiplier to 45 and XMP for the memory. What other settings could help out with stability on the R4BE? Backed everything up and will clean install WIn7. Thanks guys!


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What does CPU VTT affect?


Have you seen VCCIO somewhere in settings? No? Then it's the same thing as VTT, on this board.

It mostly affects drives and PCI-E? slots.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Sure why not? as long as your not crashing when gaming or running demanding programs or something. I use speed step and it works fine with 4.5GHz.
> Otherwise save a profile with it off in the BIOS and load that profile when you need it.
> 
> Anyone play with the ROG OC panel yet?
> Is the voltage reading on this thing just as accurate as a multimeter, you would think so right?


Sold mine on ebay - it is not as accurate as the read points on the MB. Temp reading is okay tho.
I use speedstep and Offset OC 90% of the time. Seems a waste to defeat a decade of R&D by intel engineers by using a 24/7 fixed vcore and clock. For benching - sure, fix the mV and disable speedstep.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Have you seen VCCIO somewhere in settings? No? Then it's the same thing as VTT, on this board.
> It mostly affects drives and PCI-E? slots.


erm... as the bios explains, it helps with memory and bclk OC. at 2133 1/05V is plenty. Seems my 2400 and 2666 kits need like 1.25V or higher. (is that a bad thing? the Intel spec OL is up to 1.4V, like vcore)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Sold mine on ebay - it is not as accurate as the read points on the MB. Temp reading is okay tho.
> I use speedstep and Offset OC 90% of the time. Seems a waste to defeat a decade of R&D by intel engineers by using a 24/7 fixed vcore and clock. For benching - sure, fix the mV and disable speedstep.
> erm... as the bios explains, it helps with memory and bclk OC. at 2133 1/05V is plenty. Seems my 2400 and 2666 kits need like 1.25V or higher. (is that a bad thing? the Intel spec OL is up to 1.4V, like vcore)


I run vtt/vccsa ~ 1.2 for stock timings on my trident X w/ SB-E.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What does CPU VTT affect?
> 
> I only changed the Vcore, LLC and multiplier to 45 and XMP for the memory. What other settings could help out with stability on the R4BE? Backed everything up and will clean install WIn7. Thanks guys!


VTT = Cache/ringbus.

VCCSA = memory controller.

not really, but for daily clocking purposes, you can think of these voltages as these things.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Actually, I have much faster writes than reads, and it's bit puzzling. One of reasons is I had slower writes than reads with one settings, I probably overwrote.


Something is wrong there, should be like 47k across the board.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> *VTT = Cache/ringbus.
> 
> VCCSA = memory controller.*
> 
> not really, but for daily clocking purposes, you can think of these voltages as these things.
> Something is wrong there, should be like 47k across the board.


What are normal values for the 4930K? I have mine set to auto, but would like to tinker with more settings. Just don't know the range.

Tomorrow I will buy a new 4930K and will put my current one on sale.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What are normal values for the 4930K? I have mine set to auto, but would like to tinker with more settings. Just don't know the range.
> 
> Tomorrow I will buy a new 4930K and will put my current one on sale.


VTT = 1.05 V for all CPU.

VCCSA varies from 0.800 V to 0.950 V or there about.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> or at least the 3rd if for some reason you can't use the first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the reason why I can't use first slot for GFX card.
Click to expand...

simple solution. watercooling !


----------



## Akadaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What are normal values for the 4930K? I have mine set to auto, but would like to tinker with more settings. Just don't know the range.
> 
> Tomorrow I will buy a new 4930K and will put my current one on sale.


GL hope you get a good chip.


----------



## Slinky PC

I hope you all here enjoy the R4BE








I HATE YOU ASUS SO MUCH for your r4be bios!

Just broken my evga gtx titan rma in less there 4 hours, second TITAN broken in a week! Give as a bios for your mobo or I will continue to break components weekly & give you a free advertisement ASUS San Francisco EVENT not anyone use LN2, give as a bios Chickens!

Edit: I don't have any problem going back to rive take me less there 6 hours to start over and finish the rebuild... but I prefer to punish you ASUS for yours San Francisco Event and all your advertisement prior you lancing this....


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I hope you all here enjoy the R4BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I HATE YOU ASUS SO MUCH for your r4be bios!
> 
> Jost broken my evga gtx titan rma in less there 4 hours, second TITAN broken in a week! Give as a bios for your mob or I will continue to break component weekly & give you a free advertisement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS San Francisco EVENT not anyone use LN2, give as a bios Chickens!


How did the mobo break your GPU?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I hope you all here enjoy the R4BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I HATE YOU ASUS SO MUCH for your r4be bios!
> 
> Just broken my evga gtx titan rma in less there 4 hours, second TITAN broken in a week! Give as a bios for your mobo or I will continue to break components weekly & give you a free advertisement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS San Francisco EVENT not anyone use LN2, give as a bios Chickens!
> 
> 
> Edit: I don't have any problem going back to rive take me less there 6 hours to start over and finish the rebuild... but I prefer to punish you for yours San Francisco Event and all your advertisement prior lancing this.
> 
> 
> 
> How did the mobo break your GPU?
Click to expand...

The R4BE break my second GPU in a week period by protecting Intel with all the restrictions designate in there bios
Thanks for ask


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I hope you all here enjoy the R4BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I HATE YOU ASUS SO MUCH for your r4be bios!
> THIS IS A BIGGEST POS ASUS BORD EVER MAKE IT, not even close with RIVE.
> Jost broken my evga gtx titan rma in less there 4 hours, second TITAN broken in a week! Give as a bios for your mob or I will continue to break component weekly & give you a free advertisement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS San Francisco EVENT not anyone use LN2, give as a bios Chickens!
> 
> 
> 
> How did the mobo break your GPU?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The R4BE broken my second GPU in a week period by protecting Intel with all the restrictions designate in there bios
> Thanks for ask
Click to expand...

I just have not ever had a mobo break a GPU before, thank you for the info can you expound on this so I know what not to do with my settings so I dont break a GPU


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

so.. anything good about this board? Looking for a reason not to wait a month or two for next gen and ddr4


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> so.. anything good about this board? Looking for a reason not to wait a month or two for next gen and ddr4


wait or go back to rive








edit: I will continue take you update with any new RMA behind R4BE on my system... next week!


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> How did the mobo break your GPU?


This. Can you let us know in what way the BIOS was responsible for your gpu dying? Don't think anyone else has had this issue...?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> How did the mobo break your GPU?
> 
> 
> 
> This. Can you let us know in what way the BIOS was responsible for your gpu dying? Don't think anyone else has had this issue...?
Click to expand...

ASUS designed first two bios for ladies that don't fit my build, I will be able to break one TITAN weekly with pleasure until the right bios will arrive.
Enjoy your motherboard


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

asus wannabe gaming gear. yet people fall for it









.. guess i'll go for the Dark rather then the Black, if I get to impatient


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> asus wannabe gaming gear. yet people fall for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. guess i'll go for the Dark rather then the Black, if I get to impatient


I love how anyone here is so happy with this board, good for you.
Ladies... go back to RIVE, the one and only EXTREME motherboard!
by Veniamin A.K.A. Human Slinky (an artist)


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> ASUS designed first two bios for ladies that don't fit my build, I will be able to break one TITAN weekly with pleasure until the right bios will arrive.
> Enjoy your motherboard


Very good but doesn't explain how the BIOS was responsible.....


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> ASUS designed first two bios for ladies that don't fit my build, I will be able to break one TITAN weekly with pleasure until the right bios will arrive.
> Enjoy your motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very good but doesn't explain how the BIOS was responsible.....
Click to expand...

I think your pc start also with bios, you should ask asus how or wait to give you an upgrade how many of this titan I will broken on this mobo


----------



## Doug2507

Sorry dude, without some sort of reasonable explanation you just come across as shooting your mouth off and pointing fingers for no valid reason.

If you stopped acting like a 10yr old and got in touch with ASUS to try and figure things out/work a solution (if indeed it is the BIOS) instead of carrying on here, it would be better for everyone.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> How did the mobo break your GPU?
> 
> 
> 
> This. Can you let us know in what way the BIOS was responsible for your gpu dying? Don't think anyone else has had this issue...?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *ASUS designed first two bios for ladies* that don't fit my build, I will be able to break one TITAN weekly with pleasure until the right bios will arrive.
> Enjoy your motherboard
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> asus wannabe gaming gear. yet people fall for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. guess i'll go for the Dark rather then the Black, if I get to impatient
> 
> 
> 
> *I love how anyone here is so happy with this board, good for you.
> Ladies*... go back to RIVE, the one and only EXTREME motherboard!
> by Veniamin A.K.A. Human Slinky (an artist)
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I hope you all here enjoy the R4BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I HATE YOU ASUS SO MUCH for your r4be bios!
> THIS IS A BIGGEST POS ASUS BORD EVER MAKE IT, not even close with RIVE.
> Just broken my evga gtx titan rma in less there 4 hours, second TITAN broken in a week! Give as a bios for your mobo or I will continue to break components weekly & give you a free advertisement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS San Francisco EVENT not anyone use LN2, give as a bios Chickens!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I don't have any problem going back to rive take me less there 6 hours to start over and finish the rebuild... but I prefer to punish you ASUS for yours San Francisco Event and all your advertisement prior you lancing this....


Dude, You really do have a lot of issues that no one else seems to . . .

Ever consider that it might just be you









I really, DO NOT APPRECIATE the derogatory tone you use in reference to women.

I find it particularly personally offensive.

Let the examples of my skills speak for me.

Darlene


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> How did the mobo break your GPU?
> 
> 
> 
> This. Can you let us know in what way the BIOS was responsible for your gpu dying? Don't think anyone else has had this issue...?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *ASUS designed first two bios for ladies* that don't fit my build, I will be able to break one TITAN weekly with pleasure until the right bios will arrive.
> Enjoy your motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> asus wannabe gaming gear. yet people fall for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. guess i'll go for the Dark rather then the Black, if I get to impatient
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *I love how anyone here is so happy with this board, good for you.
> Ladies*... go back to RIVE, the one and only EXTREME motherboard!
> by Veniamin A.K.A. Human Slinky (an artist)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I hope you all here enjoy the R4BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I HATE YOU ASUS SO MUCH for your r4be bios!
> THIS IS A BIGGEST POS ASUS BORD EVER MAKE IT, not even close with RIVE.
> Just broken my evga gtx titan rma in less there 4 hours, second TITAN broken in a week! Give as a bios for your mobo or I will continue to break components weekly & give you a free advertisement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS San Francisco EVENT not anyone use LN2, give as a bios Chickens!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I don't have any problem going back to rive take me less there 6 hours to start over and finish the rebuild... but I prefer to punish you ASUS for yours San Francisco Event and all your advertisement prior you lancing this....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Dude, You really do have a lot of issues that no one else seems to . . .
> 
> Ever consider that it might just be you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really, DO NOT APPRECIATE the derogatory tone you use in reference to women.
> 
> I find it particularly personally offensive.
> 
> Let the examples of my skills speak for me.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

TO me it seems like he is needing to blame someone else other than himself for destroying his cards... I have not had an issue with my MOBO and my Titans nor do I think anyone else has had these types of issues.

We were asking what you settings were for this to happen.. rather than rant about some random BS can you let us know what happened or what your bios settings were when it happened and I bet if you ask Darlene for a little help she will help you


----------



## mistacheese

Hey all, I just want to thank you for all the assistance you have provided someone a little new to all of this. Getting to read and follow along has made my confidence increase significantly.

Darlene, you are a HUGE asset to the community, thanks for all you do!

Cheese


----------



## doctakedooty

@Slinky PC if you want to get reid of the black edition shot me a pm I will take it off your hands I even have a rive if interested.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Hi guys, could you recommend pump and radiator for my next build? thanks


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I hope you all here enjoy the R4BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I HATE YOU ASUS SO MUCH for your r4be bios!
> THIS IS A BIGGEST POS ASUS BORD EVER MAKE IT, not even close with RIVE.
> Just broken my evga gtx titan rma in less there 4 hours, second TITAN broken in a week! Give as a bios for your mobo or I will continue to break components weekly & give you a free advertisement ASUS San Francisco EVENT not anyone use LN2, give as a bios Chickens!
> 
> Edit: I don't have any problem going back to rive take me less there 6 hours to start over and finish the rebuild... but I prefer to punish you ASUS for yours San Francisco Event and all your advertisement prior you lancing this....


How you borked your gpu??
I have the rev. 1.01 board we used in SF event and also retail 1.02 board and no problem whatsoever


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Hi guys, could you recommend pump and radiator for my next build? thanks


Dual D5s and four 480 monstas all with AP-15s in push-pull in your Magnum TX10.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Dual D5s and four 480 monstas all with AP-15s in push-pull in your Magnum TX10.


D5 from which manufacturer is the best?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Those temps seem a bit warm to me...


LOL, what kind of cooling system you are using to get this insane temperature?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it really is top-drawer kit. I run a GiGant on one rig, and a 720Mk4 on another. With koolance QDCs, they are fairly portable between cooling jobs.


these are basically external radiators, right?
are they working passively or you need a lot of fans to cool them off?
Take 720 Mk4 for example, what is the core temperature during 100% load under stress?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Just bought a 4930K at micro center and got BF4 and Grid 2 came coupons.

They also let me pick a CPU, I went with the B batch ending in the highest number.

I'm hoping to get 4.8-4.9.


----------



## cadaveca

UP an running a new case, gotta get the real modding started!


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> UP an running a new case, gotta get the real modding started!


That's a sleek looking case there!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> these are basically external radiators, right?
> are they working passively or you need a lot of fans to cool them off?
> Take 720 Mk4 for example, what is the core temperature during 100% load under stress?


you can read about the equipment *here*

Core of what? The 720 has 6 fans and handles two highly overclocked and overvolted titans. The CPU is a minor source of BTUs in a gaming or benching rig. Even my 3930K at 5.1 and almost 1.6V woulfd barley turn the fans on. So, yes, passive AND active cooling.

go for it if you have the spare cash. They are a whole 'nother level of cooling kit.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> you can read about the equipment *here*
> 
> Core of what? The 720 has 6 fans and handles two highly overclocked and overvolted titans. The CPU is a minor source of BTUs in a gaming or benching rig. Even my 3930K at 5.1 and almost 1.6V woulfd barley turn the fans on. So, yes, passive AND active cooling.
> 
> go for it if you have the spare cash. They are a whole 'nother level of cooling kit.


Im thinking about chiller cooling and TEC. These two methods are extremely efficient but also have risks, mostly condensation problem.
what is the maximum CPU and GPU temperature you get when under 100% stress?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> so.. anything good about this board? Looking for a reason not to wait a month or two for next gen and ddr4


More like three quarters of year.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I hope you all here enjoy the R4BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I HATE YOU ASUS SO MUCH for your r4be bios!
> THIS IS A BIGGEST POS ASUS BORD EVER MAKE IT, not even close with RIVE.
> Just broken my evga gtx titan rma in less there 4 hours, second TITAN broken in a week! Give as a bios for your mobo or I will continue to break components weekly & give you a free advertisement ASUS San Francisco EVENT not anyone use LN2, give as a bios Chickens!
> 
> Edit: I don't have any problem going back to rive take me less there 6 hours to start over and finish the rebuild... but I prefer to punish you ASUS for yours San Francisco Event and all your advertisement prior you lancing this....
> 
> 
> 
> How you borked your gpu??
> I have the rev. 1.01 board we used in SF event and also retail 1.02 board and no problem whatsoever
Click to expand...

Realy?
For how many seconds you tested the board in SF and who cares... I don't use Ln2.


----------



## Nexo

This motherboard looks SEXY!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Im thinking about chiller cooling and TEC. These two methods are extremely efficient but also have risks, mostly condensation problem.
> what is the maximum CPU and GPU temperature you get when under 100% stress?


your question is indeterminate. With what? My 2700K? 3930K or 4960X? Full bore 1600P BF4 gaming keeps 2 GTX titans/EK waterblocks and a 2700K at <50C and <60C respectively with a room temp of ~ 20-23C.. p95 with the [email protected] is <65C with small FFTs running.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I re-installed windows, but now I'm missing an unknown device driver.









Has anyone gone through this lately?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I re-installed windows, but now I'm missing an unknown device driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone gone through this lately?


Stick your motherboard cd in then right click the "unknown device" and update driver software. Browse to your cd drive.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Stick your motherboard cd in then right click the "unknown device" and update driver software. Browse to your cd drive.


+ Rep









Thanks brother.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> + Rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks brother.


Seems you fixed the problem, but still don't know what it is?


----------



## cadaveca

ADM A00 driver or Management engine interface, most likely.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Hi guys, can anyone tell me with proper watercooling what does the CPU CORE temperature look like during load? say 4.8G


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Hi guys, can anyone tell me which proper watercooling what does the CPU CORE temperature look like during load?


With water you're going to run into a safe voltage barrier before you run into temps being a problem.


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Realy?
> For how many seconds you tested the board in SF and who cares... I don't use Ln2.


We test/benched 6 boards 3 days straight LN2 and air no problem. 14 spare boards unused



http://imgur.com/coPBdi8


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Realy?
> For how many seconds you tested the board in SF and who cares... I don't use Ln2.
> 
> 
> 
> We test/benched 6 boards 3 days straight LN2 and air no problem. 14 spare boards unused
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/coPBdi8
Click to expand...

I use those titans for 10 months on extreme with Rive daily with no problems. In less there two months with R4BE break 2 of them in the last 7 days. I find this board very boring because all bios restrictions. What you guys tested with Ln2 don't have nothing to do with water cooling. I am very interested to know how many i7-4960X you broken there guys as with water-cooling is almost impossible to do it. I invite you guys to play Tetris with your 4-way sli on r4be.







be safe!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Seems you fixed the problem, but still don't know what it is?


Yeah, I don't know what the missing driver was, but at least the CD took care of things


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> UP an running a new case, gotta get the real modding started!


What case is that?


----------



## Akadaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iatacs19*
> 
> What case is that?


It's the Corsair Air 540 case.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> More like three quarters of year.


Mmm.. that's what I'm kind of dwelling on as well! But it was indeed scheduled to drop Q3 - Q4 2013 .. and I've gotten a lot of indicators pointing @ Q2 2014

But as I said.. if I get too impatient I guess going for a DARK would be the safe card. Partially because that's what kingpin´s been using for his world records and I have yet to see any complaints about that mobo.

R4be seems to be just to much hype i guess.. ASUS trying to fit everything on one board to make some final sales before next gen. Their biggest selling point to overclockers would be 2800+ support .. but with ddr4 that will just be old school news anyways.

So be it 2 months or 7 months I really can't be definite on that, but in which case I wouldn't want to be stuck with what has happened to slinky.

Really had my eye on the r4be, mainly because EKWB have that sweet full body mobo plexi block for it. But it wont be worth it simply for appearances, and unfortunately as far as I can see with the r4be. that seems to be just the case.

Going with evga´s x79 dark while waiting for next gen. Mind´s made up!

GL with your gear, I hope asus takes responsibility for those whom they caused inconvenience with this cheap expensive sales trick.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

After a fresh Win7 install, .my BSOD have gone away.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, You really do have a lot of issues that no one else seems to . . .
> 
> Ever consider that it might just be you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really, DO NOT APPRECIATE the derogatory tone you use in reference to women.
> 
> I find it particularly personally offensive.
> 
> Let the examples of my skills speak for me.
> 
> Darlene


his GPU's dying obviously had nothing to do with him running them @ 1500+ MHZ the other day...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I use those titans for 10 months on extreme with Rive daily with no problems. In less there two months with R4BE break 2 of them in the last 7 days. I find this board very boring because all bios restrictions. What you guys tested with Ln2 don't have nothing to do with water cooling. I am very interested to know how many i7-4960X you broken there guys as with water-cooling is almost impossible to do it. I invite you guys to play Tetris with your 4-way sli on r4be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> be safe!


thanks, will do!!

How many times did you run your titans @ 1500mhz on the vanilla rive I wonder? That had to require @least 1.4V which is extremely unhealthy and would likely blow any titan rather quickly.

MRTOOSHORT blew his titan @ similar clocks & volts, yet it was plugged into the vanilla RIVE....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I re-installed windows, but now I'm missing an unknown device driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone gone through this lately?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I assume most of them are related to the wifi.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> After a fresh Win7 install, .my BSOD have gone away.


Didn't you do a clean fresh Windows 7 install with your last 4930k? It didn't help with the BSOD?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Didn't you do a clean fresh Windows 7 install with your last 4930k? It didn't help with the BSOD?


I havnt done a clean install since my 3770k days. I swapped mobos and CPUs without problems until recently with this board.


----------



## xarot

Hi *cadaveca*, I quickly went through the review you did for TPU. A very nice review.









Earlier I read on this forum that you had also run into the quite common shutdown issue. Did you see any pattern with the memory related, did this happen for you with 4 GB sticks as well as 8 GB. Was it CPU related or board as well? Did you manage to fix all of them by tuning the voltages? As the i7-4960X even supports 64 GB 1866 RAM (I assume this is JEDEC speed by Intel, most kits are overclocked from 1333/1600?). I also assume 4 GB sticks is way easier on this board? I am asking because I picked this sentence from the review.

_ASUS spent considerable time optimizing the BIOSes of their ROG products to provide just this experience, and no matter what memory kit I decided to add into the mix, I did not encounter any of the problems I normally do, although getting kits with 8 GB DIMMs to work can prove difficult._

I am just thinking if I want to tinker with my 4x8 GB kits, or would I buy a 16 GB kit instead. Right now I am fully stable at 4.5 with 32 GB though. But going from there proves to be very difficult for me, and on RIVE or RIVF these kits have worked rather good. Appreciate if you have the time to answer this. Thanks.


----------



## cadaveca

I can answer that very simply. There are profiles in the BIOS for specific 4 GB DIMM ICs of every flavor to help you get those most out of those sticks for benching, but none for 8 GB sticks. If you want to OC 8 GB sticks, you are all on your own. If you know how to tweak timings already, or have the time and patience to test every setting, then you should have no problems...every option needed is there - but lacking that...

XMP works great. Don't mix kits.









Shutdown issue disappeared when I replaced my PSU. Or rather, when Thermaltake did.


----------



## King4x4

Mobo will go under water soonish!



Was hitting a wall at 4.7ghz... will see if the water block will help a bit.


----------



## yknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> ............... If you know how to tweak timings already, or have the time and patience to test every setting, then you should have no problems...every option needed is there - but lacking that...


----------



## WCRF_1710

I'm no happy with that look, what do you suggest?

Not intended to use rigid tubes.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I can answer that very simply. There are profiles in the BIOS for specific 4 GB DIMM ICs of every flavor to help you get those most out of those sticks for benching, but none for 8 GB sticks. If you want to OC 8 GB sticks, you are all on your own. If you know how to tweak timings already, or have the time and patience to test every setting, then you should have no problems...every option needed is there - but lacking that...
> 
> XMP works great. Don't mix kits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shutdown issue disappeared when I replaced my PSU. Or rather, when Thermaltake did.


Thanks. XMP doesn't work for me on my two Corsair kits, I am just trying to run stock with most settings at AUTO (=XMP settings). The system shuts down under stress in a second or two.







Both are quad kits and not trying to run them at the same time. Both kits need XMP disabled and manually setting at least VTT, VCCSA, Vcore, VCCSA LLC, Vcore LLC and so on.

By manually tuning every one of these settings, I got it stable. I have Corsair AX1200 PSU. So I can do it, but it's not easy.

With everything on AUTO, no shutdowns. RAM is at 1333 MHz only then.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> I'm no happy with that look, what do you suggest?
> 
> Not intended to use rigid tubes.


Your CPU socket has some condensation protection, you're using TEC cooling?


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> If you have money and wanna play with underclocking, you might try 2400MHz, and downclock to run it at 2133 MHz at 1.5 V. Or simply grab some 1.5 V high speed kit. 1.35 V 1866 MHz RAM would be great (when you want cold RAM, or low power consumption/stress on your PSU). Majority of 1.5 V 2133 MHz RAM are decent.
> 
> Do you need 8x4 for speed, heat dissipation, or because of cost reasons? F3-14900CL9Q2-32GBZL (9-10-9-28-2N) These looked nice, and you can ask LunaP, who is just returning his kits for experience with his G.Skill RAM.
> 
> On the other hand, 4x8 GB might be less stressful for memory controller, and have less problems with heat dissipation. (Actually I wonder what are real world differences between 8x4GB and 4x8GB.)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> If you have money and wanna play with underclocking, you might try 2400MHz, and downclock to run it at 2133 MHz at 1.5 V. Or simply grab some 1.5 V high speed kit. 1.35 V 1866 MHz RAM would be great (when you want cold RAM, or low power consumption/stress on your PSU). Majority of 1.5 V 2133 MHz RAM are decent.
> 
> Do you need 8x4 for speed, heat dissipation, or because of cost reasons? F3-14900CL9Q2-32GBZL (9-10-9-28-2N) These looked nice, and you can ask LunaP, who is just returning his kits for experience with his G.Skill RAM.
> 
> On the other hand, 4x8 GB might be less stressful for memory controller, and have less problems with heat dissipation. (Actually I wonder what are real world differences between 8x4GB and 4x8GB.)


Hello raghar thanks for your valuable advice .. In fact, I'm choosing 8x4 Gb for aesthetic vision. But my concern is just the controller, I mount the CPU 4930K think I'll have problems? Then one other thing I did not understand but if I take a 8x4 1866 1.5 volt kit is great according to you or the voltage should be 1.65? Thanks aspect of your advice ..


----------



## Kimir

Really, with either 4930k or 4960x there is no IMC limitation like there was with 3930k/3960x/3970x...
There shouldn't be any issue with 8x4Gb (like I have) up to 2400Mhz or 4x8Gb at same rated speed.
If you choose a ram set tested on x79 platform such as the ripjaw Z (xmp 1.2), it's easy as cake, set xmp profile and voila.
If you take a ram set tested on z87 platform (xmp 1.3), you might need to set the secondary timings manually and that is all.


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Really, with either 4930k or 4960x there is no IMC limitation like there was with 3930k/3960x/3970x...
> There shouldn't be any issue with 8x4Gb (like I have) up to 2400Mhz or 4x8Gb at same rated speed.
> If you choose a ram set tested on x79 platform such as the ripjaw Z (xmp 1.2), it's easy as cake, set xmp profile and voila.
> If you take a ram set tested on z87 platform (xmp 1.3), you might need to set the secondary timings manually and that is all.


Thank you very much to you Kimir now I always have a better idea ..


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Really, with either 4930k or 4960x there is no IMC limitation like there was with 3930k/3960x/3970x...
> There shouldn't be any issue with 8x4Gb (like I have) up to 2400Mhz or 4x8Gb at same rated speed.
> If you choose a ram set tested on x79 platform such as the ripjaw Z (xmp 1.2), it's easy as cake, set xmp profile and voila.
> If you take a ram set tested on z87 platform (xmp 1.3), you might need to set the secondary timings manually and that is all.


You haven't had my CPUs. IMC limits definitely exist. I have one chip that can do 2800 without any volt increase. But getting over 26000 MB in Memtest86 is hard. Other chips...have issues with even 2133 MHz, and need volt increase.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Thanks. XMP doesn't work for me on my two Corsair kits, I am just trying to run stock with most settings at AUTO (=XMP settings). The system shuts down under stress in a second or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both are quad kits and not trying to run them at the same time. Both kits need XMP disabled and manually setting at least VTT, VCCSA, Vcore, VCCSA LLC, Vcore LLC and so on.
> 
> By manually tuning every one of these settings, I got it stable. I have Corsair AX1200 PSU. So I can do it, but it's not easy.
> 
> With everything on AUTO, no shutdowns. RAM is at 1333 MHz only then.


I wrote a "guide" on Haswell clocking, but it's very obtuse and general. Anyway, in that guide, I go over my testing routine...without running that routine, and seeing crashes, it's very hard to diagnose the cause of problems like this. It could simply be your chip (sounds like it to me), or as you indicate, that you are mixing kits. Memory is a capacitor...have mixed values of capacitance on separate channels, and you'll have issues.

OR it could be something simple like tWCL or TFAW.

I've had IVB and Haswell CPUs that can't clock memory worth a damn, so it's no surprise to find the same in IVB-E.


----------



## WCRF_1710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Your CPU socket has some condensation protection, you're using TEC cooling?


For extreme overclocking I use the Hailea HC-500A waterchiller.


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Really, with either 4930k or 4960x there is no IMC limitation like there was with 3930k/3960x/3970x...


Most of IvyB-e K chip can go 3000 easy (even 4000+ cold) but some can't even do 2933 which is a baseline for these chips


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Most of IvyB-e K chip can go 3000 easy (even 4000+ cold) but some can't even do 2933 which is a baseline for these chips


That's the ticket, is it? 4930K?

I know you binned many chips, and wondered why you were stuck on 4930K. Would be interesting to see 5 GHz on 4820 @<200W


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That's the ticket, is it? 4930K?
> 
> I know you binned many chips, and wondered why you were stuck on 4930K. Would be interesting to see 5 GHz on 4820 @<200W


4930/4960 for 3Ds and 4770K for 2Ds. 4820 has no competitive edges for those benches


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I just have not ever had a mobo break a GPU before, thank you for the info can you expound on this so I know what not to do with my settings so I dont break a GPU


More than likely user error especially if it was a GPU as that would be more controlled from windows.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Dear.. I was for 10 months #4, 6, and now 12+ on 3DMARK benchmarks because this mobo can do a sɥıʇ at this time.
> If you want to protect your GPU play Tetris or ask asus a bios.


I've only seen fixes in the new bios. The board wouldn't affect that unless you somehow fried the slots o_o what the hell were you pushing on those cards? LOL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> ASUS designed first two bios for ladies that don't fit my build, I will be able to break one TITAN weekly with pleasure until the right bios will arrive.
> Enjoy your motherboard


You still won't explain how the bios affects your GPU, did you end up messing w/ settings and forgot to set something or enabled LN2 + Extreme OV? I wouldn't dare go over 130% but it does go up to 160%

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> asus wannabe gaming gear. yet people fall for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. guess i'll go for the Dark rather then the Black, if I get to impatient


@Gold I wouldn't let 1 comment steer you wrong there, especially at how there's no supportive information. G/L with the Dark though hopefully they've ironed out most of the issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> D5 from which manufacturer is the best?


For the love of Christ PLEASE learn to USE the EDIT button LOL posting multiple times over and over and over is just considered spam, you've been hit on this like 10x now xD!! #Lazynessiscraziness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> UP an running a new case, gotta get the real modding started!


I miss my Air540







I might make it my next case as its a beauty to see it all in a tiny box.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> That's a sleek looking case there!


Yar that new silver Carbide Air 540 is nice, hoping they make a 640 this year.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I use those titans for 10 months on extreme with Rive daily with no problems. In less there two months with R4BE break 2 of them in the last 7 days. *I find this board very boring because all bios restrictions*. What you guys tested with Ln2 don't have nothing to do with water cooling. I am very interested to know how many i7-4960X you broken there guys as with water-cooling is almost impossible to do it. I invite you guys to play Tetris with your 4-way sli on r4be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> be safe!


Wut? It gives you FULL access to literally EVERY bit and detail to tweak till your hearts content! LOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I can answer that very simply. There are profiles in the BIOS for specific 4 GB DIMM ICs of every flavor to help you get those most out of those sticks for benching, but none for 8 GB sticks. If you want to OC 8 GB sticks, you are all on your own. If you know how to tweak timings already, or have the time and patience to test every setting, then you should have no problems...every option needed is there - but lacking that...
> 
> XMP works great. Don't mix kits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shutdown issue disappeared when I replaced my PSU. Or rather, when Thermaltake did.












Words from our Asus God
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Mobo will go under water soonish!
> 
> 
> 
> Was hitting a wall at 4.7ghz... will see if the water block will help a bit.


PUSH IT PUSH IT PUSH IT









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Really, with either 4930k or 4960x there is no IMC limitation like there was with 3930k/3960x/3970x...
> There shouldn't be any issue with 8x4Gb (like I have) up to 2400Mhz or 4x8Gb at same rated speed.
> If you choose a ram set tested on x79 platform such as the ripjaw Z (xmp 1.2), it's easy as cake, set xmp profile and voila.
> If you take a ram set tested on z87 platform (xmp 1.3), you might need to set the secondary timings manually and that is all.


Yeah looks like I'll be going w/ the RJ's since there's no Trident X 64gb kits









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You haven't had my CPUs. IMC limits definitely exist. I have one chip that can do 2800 without any volt increase. But getting over 26000 MB in Memtest86 is hard. Other chips...have issues with even 2133 MHz, and need volt increase.
> I wrote a "guide" on Haswell clocking, but it's very obtuse and general. Anyway, in that guide, I go over my testing routine...without running that routine, and seeing crashes, it's very hard to diagnose the cause of problems like this. It could simply be your chip (sounds like it to me), or as you indicate, that you are mixing kits. Memory is a capacitor...have mixed values of capacitance on separate channels, and you'll have issues.
> 
> OR it could be something simple like tWCL or TFAW.
> 
> I've had IVB and Haswell CPUs that can't clock memory worth a damn, so it's no surprise to find the same in IVB-E.


Actually meant to ask, and just confirmed w/ G skill they're gonna give me the F3-19200CL10Q2-64GBZHD. That is the only kit they have on the market that is 64gb, runs at 2400Mhz with timings at 10-12-12-31.

It's newer than the Trident but blah, really did want to get my sets to work together.

I will ask though when I set things to auto to get my RAM @ 2133 I noticed VTT and VSCAA jumped to 1.25+ Is that safe? or would that overly damage anything? Vcor was still @ 1.25 at the time. Timings were alleviated @ 11-11-11-28 iirc.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> 4930/4960 for 3Ds and 4770K for 2Ds. 4820 has no competitive edges for those benches


Sure. I know that. Haswell's cache performance makes it so. But you know, gaming is fun, too.









Like, if you just gotta have that 5 GHz for 24/7 use...for whatever reasons...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I will ask though when I set things to auto to get my RAM @ 2133 I noticed VTT and VSCAA jumped to 1.25+ Is that safe? or would that overly damage anything? Vcor was still @ 1.25 at the time. Timings were alleviated @ 11-11-11-28 iirc.


Meh. I don't think it's a bit deal for VTT or VCCSA, but for 24/7, some chips will need no increase from stock, and some will need even more than what that gives, in worst-case. Just auto as that's the point where voltage increases are needed most often...2133 MHz.

I like to stay under 1.3V on VTT, 1.2V on VCCSA. Realistically speaking, VTT can take as much voltage as CPU can...same silicon. But VCCSA on the dual-channel platforms is different, and cannot tolerate as much, and I do not know if that is the same case with IVB-E...I think it would be, but Intel's guidance is a bit confusing to me.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Hmm now I'm back on wanting the r4be .. oh god don't make me choose :/ screw you Luna xD


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Hmm now I'm back on wanting the r4be .. oh god don't make me choose :/


If you can deal with EVGA BIOS, you can deal with ASUS. Like really. Don't forget where K1ngp1n began.










Then he went to EVGA, and started torching boards when they didn't work (literally, I'm sure you can find video).









If I can get off my butt and get my backlog of reviews cleared, I'll get a DARK is they'll give me one still. Stinger review is waiting to go live already.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If you can deal with EVGA BIOS, you can deal with ASUS. Like really. Don't forget where K1ngp1n began.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then he went to EVGA, and started torching boards when they didn't work (literally, I'm sure you can find video).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I can get off my butt and get my backlog of reviews cleared, I'll get a DARK is they'll give me one still. Stinger review is waiting to go live already.


You make it sound like I'm fanboi klngpln... i was referring to a fact, that he used the x79 dark in the latest 3d mark world record, which gives me a push towards that mobo rather then r4be that slinky has been having problems with, but maybe i was a bit quick to jump to conclusions, mainly because I'm thinking how much it will annoy me if the next gen +ddr4 gets released weeks after i put a r4be in my system.

If it then turns out to be hastly thrown together "specs4sales" then I'll get an azz-tumor I'm sure.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

I'm a gamer, not a hardcore overclocker. I don't fanboi people's ability to push hardware to its utter limits on test benches. I just want quality parts that run stable and without hassle. You feelin' me? xD

With that said, ofc I do overclock, I do run a full loop, but "game stable" and "3d mark" clocks are two totally different things, atleast to me it is. I don't know that many ppl that fill up the ln2 before spawning in









Ps. Evga have a new bios.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> You make it sound like I'm fanboi klngpln... i was referring to a fact, that he used the x79 dark in the latest 3d mark world record, which gives me a push towards that mobo rather then r4be that slinky has been having problems with, but maybe i was a bit quick to jump to conclusions, mainly because I'm thinking how much it will annoy me if the next gen +ddr4 gets released weeks after i put a r4be in my system.
> 
> If it then turns out to be hastly thrown together "specs4sales" then I'll get an azz-tumor I'm sure.


Actually he was just hinting at the known issues that were relevant to earlier models of the Dark as well as apples to oranges lol.

As for DDR4 I've seen random rumors thrown around for The "next month" but that's been going on every month for the past 3 months. Last official statement wasn't until Q4 this year. If you've got a good system now then no reason to upgrade honestly, heck even I could have waited had my board been able to FIT my 3 Titans initially w/ my x58 980x though I'm still glad I made the jump.

All depends on where you're coming from. As for DDR4 I honestly doubt people will notice any difference outside of benching for at least another year since 1866 is still the the most recommended anyways lol. 8 Cores will be nice which is why I can't wait for Skylake at which point applications should make better use of multiple as well as games + more stability and breakthroughs.

I'm still looking forward to what the next gen is after x86 since we're slowly approaching the limits anyways of the architecture.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> I'm a gamer, not a hardcore overclocker. I don't fanboi people's ability to push hardware to its utter limits on test benches. I just want quality parts that run stable and without hassle. *You feelin' me?* xD


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> You make it sound like I'm fanboi klngpln... i was referring to a fact, that he used the x79 dark in the latest 3d mark world record, which gives me a push towards that mobo rather then r4be that slinky has been having problems with, but maybe i was a bit quick to jump to conclusions, mainly because I'm thinking how much it will annoy me if the next gen +ddr4 gets released weeks after i put a r4be in my system.
> 
> If it then turns out to be hastly thrown together "specs4sales" then I'll get an azz-tumor I'm sure.


I love evga myself but kingpin gets to pick what he wants and its the best of the best to break those records. Of course he uses evga products because they sponsor him. The rampage is probably the best board in my opinion and many others for the enthusiest like us who get to pick our own pieces we want. He is restricted to using anything evga makes for his records. For the avg Joes like us like us who don't know bios issues or can have them directly fix issues we have while trying to break records. I know this probably didn't come out right but it did make sense in my head. Lol


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> I love evga myself but kingpin gets to pick what he wants and its the best of the best to break those records. Of course he uses evga products because they sponsor him. The rampage is probably the best board in my opinion and many others for the enthusiest like us who get to pick our own pieces we want. He is restricted to using anything evga makes for his records. For the avg Joes like us like us who don't know bios issues or can have them directly fix issues we have while trying to break records. I know this probably didn't come out right but it did make sense in my head. Lol


No, you make a valid point of argument. He had no less than 4 hex1500w classified if im not mistaken lol .. but you have to see my point aswell, i have yet to see r4be perform.. and then i read slinky's issues .. idk but on second consideration he has been pushing those titans fairly hard for a long period of time, and titan isnt a overclockers card at all! The vrms the pcb it's all mainstream config. Comparing with 780ti KPE since we're in to dropping his name now







but honestly I'm running 2x 780 Lightning .. compared to titan which nvidia wouldn't let manufacturers do any changes to. Well it's an OT discussion, but I guess common sense tells us titan was never made to be pushed for overclocking, so blaming a mobo for it might not make that much sense ..

Well, can one of the bench geeks push the bord and show us that it infact is "stable and without hassle" ..?

Would be very interesting and atleast I would take that result in to consideration for upcoming paycheck usage
^_^


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Well, can one of the bench geeks push the bord and show us that it infact is "stable and without hassle" ..?


Centvalny already took care of that...check his posts. He also posted BIOS screenies to show how little he changed.

Like don't get me wrong...buy whatever you like. But at the same time part of me wants to justify my own choice, and since my experience from nearly day one is in this thread, yeah, I had issues.... but yeah, I solved them, and none of them were board-related. Clocking 8 GB DIMMs is hard on any board, really, or least, for the specific sticks I have.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Right away! : ) and yup been there done that >_< 9-11-11-31 for 2400mhz crucial balistix (i like them lights)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> No, you make a valid point of argument. He had no less than 4 hex1500w classified if im not mistaken lol .. but you have to see my point aswell, i have yet to see r4be perform.. and then i read slinky's issues .. idk but on second consideration he has been pushing those titans fairly hard for a long period of time, *and titan isnt a overclockers card at all!* The vrms the pcb it's all mainstream config. Comparing with 780ti KPE since we're in to dropping his name now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but honestly I'm running 2x 780 Lightning .. compared to titan which nvidia wouldn't let manufacturers do any changes to. Well it's an OT discussion, *but I guess common sense tells us titan was never made to be pushed for overclocking*, so blaming a mobo for it might not make that much sense ..
> 
> Well, can one of the bench geeks push the bord and show us that it infact is "stable and without hassle" ..?
> 
> Would be very interesting and atleast I would take that result in to consideration for upcoming paycheck usage
> ^_^


The heck ? Did you hear that no Tek Syndicate or something? LOL Care to post your source for this? LOL holding back the nerd rage to SLAP the ignorance out of you







HOLD ME BACK Skupps









Where the hell did you read that Titan's aren't OC cards LOL? I push mine past most 780s OC's EASILY w/o raising temps by much, these things are BEASTS and with the ability to overvolt they're still reigning champs. 780's are limited to what they can Volt to.

Slinky simply pushed his cards past whatever limit they were capable of and you normally do not see that type of push other than when on LN2 or above as 1400 is the most I normally see, but for EXTENDED periods of times of course something would bust, not to mention depending on the % ASIC of the card, when 1 may be lower than the other which hinders the later from achieving things. Then you have to factor in what he used for cooling pads and if he applied the correct thermal padding or just went w/ the standard MFC which doesn't cover the Mosfets/VRMs on some in which you need to manually apply your own to keep them from popping.

Please don't come on here trolling that nonsense


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

A part of me wants this mobo now just to fool around with myself hehehe but i no wants to braek mai lightnings! 1!!1!


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> No, you make a valid point of argument. He had no less than 4 hex1500w classified if im not mistaken lol .. but you have to see my point aswell, i have yet to see r4be perform.. and then i read slinky's issues .. idk but on second consideration he has been pushing those titans fairly hard for a long period of time, and titan isnt a overclockers card at all! The vrms the pcb it's all mainstream config. Comparing with 780ti KPE since we're in to dropping his name now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but honestly I'm running 2x 780 Lightning .. compared to titan which nvidia wouldn't let manufacturers do any changes to. Well it's an OT discussion, but I guess common sense tells us titan was never made to be pushed for overclocking, so blaming a mobo for it might not make that much sense ..
> 
> Well, can one of the bench geeks push the bord and show us that it infact is "stable and without hassle" ..?
> 
> Would be very interesting and atleast I would take that result in to consideration for upcoming paycheck usage
> ^_^


I bench my 780ti ref but I still have the rive and your right pushing benchs do put alot of strain on all components but slinky has yet to give how the bios destroyed his cards. It could be faulty psu wires or psu, a bad pcie slot, multiple things could be the issue. Blaming it on a bios without giving a reason has no merit. If it was a bios reason then others would have it unless maybe he was using a custom bios or maybe a beta bios but I doubt a officially released bios would do that. I agree I think its more user error somewhere or other hardware causing the issue. If your planning or thinking maybe upgrading soon to Haswell e then just grab a rampage iv extreme you can pick one up used pretty cheap and they perform well with ivy bridge e. I am just looking at selling mine for a black just for the built in wifi since my wife kicked my pc out of the room without lan now and I am to lazy and busy to run new Ethernet under the house and into a new room so probably going to take the easy way out.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

I'm a gamer, not a hardcore overclocker. I don't fanboi people's ability to push hardware to its utter limits on test
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> The heck ? Did you hear that no Tek Syndicate or something? LOL Care to post your source for this? LOL holding back the nerd rage to SLAP the ignorance out of you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLD ME BACK Skupps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the hell did you read that Titan's aren't OC cards LOL? I push mine past most 780s OC's EASILY w/o raising temps by much, these things are BEASTS and with the ability to overvolt they're still reigning champs. 780's are limited to what they can Volt to.
> 
> Slinky simply pushed his cards past whatever limit they were capable of and you normally do not see that type of push other than when on LN2 or above as 1400 is the most I normally see, but for EXTENDED periods of times of course something would bust, not to mention depending on the % ASIC of the card, when 1 may be lower than the other which hinders the later from achieving things. Then you have to factor in what he used for cooling pads and if he applied the correct thermal padding or just went w/ the standard MFC which doesn't cover the Mosfets/VRMs on some in which you need to manually apply your own to keep them from popping.
> 
> Please don't come on here trolling that nonsense


So Titan is just as good for overclocking as 780ti KPE and 780 Lightning .. kden


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Not in for a flame war, but my 780 will run laps around your titan any day of the week. This I'm sure of!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> *Not in for a flame war*, but my 780 will run laps around your titan any day of the week. This I'm sure of!


Then why start?

I thought u just said you don't fanboi









k den.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Titan is awesome, sorry if i stepped on your $1000 nervs ._.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Titan is awesome, sorry if i stepped on you $1000 nervs ._.


I spent 500-600 each $ (brand new) on mine no worries







we just don't need people spreading false lies/rumors around. Most of us are about research and trial and error here and learning not just quoting numbers off a box/review site which most review sites fail due to their techs being incompetent about the hardware they're using or using with as well as settings, since they don't bother to learn or do research at all.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I spent 500-600 each $ (brand new) on mine no worries


Then you got your money's worth I'm sure.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I spent 500-600 each $ (brand new) on mine no worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we just don't need people spreading false lies/rumors around. Most of us are about research and trial and error here and learning not just quoting numbers off a box/review site which most review sites fail due to their techs being incompetent about the hardware they're using or using with as well as settings, since they don't bother to learn or do research at all.


What do you get fps wise per gpu on bf4 / card ? Don't go to a dark place I'm totally up for discussion, i did not quote anything so far so please don't say that i did.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

I get 98 fps / 1 card. Running 1346mhz, i use 1.38v to reach that clock. My mems are 3gb but I'm on 1080p so it's fine, and I have them clocked on 7852mhz for the one carrying Hynix memory, i have one carrying memory from elpida aswell, but that one goes to another home tomorrow, hopefully i get a 2nd one with hynix this time.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> What do you get fps wise per gpu on bf4 / card ? Don't go to a dark place I'm totally up for discussion, i did not quote anything so far so please don't say that i did.


Not saying you're quoting just that you're getting your information from a very bad source, and that's the only way you would have said something like that. Case point Slinky literally blew his cards up lol.

I'll load BF4 tomorrow and tell you, what settings would you like me to apply etc.

I run in 7860x1440 surround mode btw, so this is where I benefit from the Titans, I'm not saying nor ever said the 780's are bad, just I don't want to be limited to locked voltage ( OC Wall) or 3GB of ram when surround clearly hits and breaks the 3gb limits now hitting upwards 4-5gb in some new tests, and I want something that's gonna kick it for a couple years till the next best thing (8gb + ) comes out.

If you're not running Surround above 5760x1080 then you should be fine but the extra RAM etc helps flex the muscles. That said, let me know what settings, what map etc, I haven't gotten past the introduction stage as I installed it previously with my 2 Titans in surround before building my newer system.

If it helps at ALL for now, here's a recent benchmark ( minimum OC nothing high as I was verifying I didn't have drivers issues after a high OC lol ) from TR w/ max settings minux TressFX. Only other programs open were Chrome ( 200+ tabs cuz I love it like that <3 )and 1 VM (windows XP )

I can't embed here since the image size is ridiculous but here you go.

(warning b/w intensive )

Tomb Raider bench (not like it matters most computers can run this )

Anywhoo let me know I'll gladly pop some screenshots.

Or pop over to the dinosaur club there's a ton of us that can produce if you'd like <3


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Anywhoo let me know I'll gladly pop some screenshots.


1440p surround. You's mad, man.










I run 1200p surround on the Ti's decently. Your res is nearly twice the pixels of mine though, which could be interpreted to twice the VRM usage (but of course, that's rendered frames only, not all mem usage is rendered frames).

I played a few hours of TR @ 1200p on 7970's, was usually over 60 FPS, surprisingly. But the frame-times killed it, so I stopped playing. I am hoping the Ti's will keep up, or I might have to pick up a third (not like it'll help, but I'll sleep better.







)

Anyhoo...yeah..res...memory usage...ain't all that most make it up to be. Max # of buffered frames @ 2-3 for most engines kinda makes this a funny thing for me to hear so much.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 1440p surround. You's mad, man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I run 1200p surround on the Ti's decently. Your res is nearly twice the pixels of mine though, which could be interpreted to twice the VRM usage (but of course, that's rendered frames only, not all mem usage is rendered frames).
> 
> I played a few hours of TR @ 1200p on 7970's, was usually over 60 FPS, surprisingly. But the frame-times killed it, so I stopped playing. I am hoping the Ti's will keep up, or I might have to pick up a third (not like it'll help, but I'll sleep better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Anyhoo...yeah..res...memory usage...ain't all that most make it up to be. Max # of buffered frames @ 2-3 for most engines kinda makes this a funny thing for me to hear so much.


Yeah I'm still trying to find the balance in which is better for surround, higher memory clock on the GPU or higher core or a certain ratio. I know CPU is factored in too, I'm pushing for 4.7-4.8 before I hit the wall where it jumps, though 4.7 may be it. Memory wise I'm certain that 1333 vs 2133-2400 would give definite gains.

Hopefully G Skill does an advanced RMA or w/e it is where they send teh product first then I send theirs back. Sucks I have to give up the sexy X's though but I'm sure I'll forget about it once they're all up and stable. Gonna go w/ the 2400 ripjaws and just downclock to 2133 for better latency.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Not saying you're quoting just that you're getting your information from a very bad source, and that's the only way you would have said something like that. Case point Slinky literally blew his cards up lol.
> 
> I'll load BF4 tomorrow and tell you, what settings would you like me to apply etc.
> 
> I run in 7860x1440 surround mode btw, so this is where I benefit from the Titans, I'm not saying nor ever said the 780's are bad, just I don't want to be limited to locked voltage ( OC Wall) or 3GB of ram when surround clearly hits and breaks the 3gb limits now hitting upwards 4-5gb in some new tests, and I want something that's gonna kick it for a couple years till the next best thing (8gb + ) comes out.
> 
> If you're not running Surround above 5760x1080 then you should be fine but the extra RAM etc helps flex the muscles. That said, let me know what settings, what map etc, I haven't gotten past the introduction stage as I installed it previously with my 2 Titans in surround before building my newer system.
> 
> If it helps at ALL for now, here's a recent benchmark ( minimum OC nothing high as I was verifying I didn't have drivers issues after a high OC lol ) from TR w/ max settings minux TressFX. Only other programs open were Chrome ( 200+ tabs cuz I love it like that <3 )and 1 VM (windows XP )
> 
> I can't embed here since the image size is ridiculous but here you go.
> 
> (warning b/w intensive )
> 
> Tomb Raider bench (not like it matters most computers can run this )
> 
> Anywhoo let me know I'll gladly pop some screenshots.


We in the Lightning oweners club aren't really locked either much thanks to skyn3t and robby's tool. Im only on water and 1.5 v is as far as im willing to push, ive gotten around 1560mhz on the core and completed valley and 3d mark.

I think we actually have the same opinion, in the matter my stick handle was meant for slinky, not you. Alot of people see quality based on pricetags and random people/gamers i speak to always drop the same thing "yea ima get 4 titan run em in sli and beat all records porra hue" .. but my card is build to withstand (even if the gpu may take damage) 1.5v and above. And ln2 cooling etc.. titan can maybe do that aswell, but don't say it was built for it.

I'm 1000% sure you have alot more extensive knowledge than I have when it comes to overclocking just about anything. So please, I did not mean to offend, even if i did somehow.

With that said I think I shouldn't post anything further and derail the thread. I was just curious about the board beacause I'm 98% sure I'll go back to 2011 socket by next month.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> We in the Lightning oweners club aren't really locked either much thanks to skyn3t and robby's tool. Im only on water and 1.5 v is as far as im willing to push, ive gotten around 1560mhz on the core and completed valley and 3d mark.
> 
> I think we actually have the same opinion, in the matter my stick handle was meant for slinky, not you. Alot of people see quality based on pricetags and random people/gamers i speak to always drop the same thing "yea ima get 4 titan run em in sli and beat all records porra hue" .. but my card is build to withstand (even if the gpu may take damage) 1.5v and above. And ln2 cooling etc.. titan can maybe do that aswell, but don't say it was built for it.
> 
> I'm 1000% sure you have alot more extensive knowledge than I have when it comes to overclocking just about anything. So please, I did not mean to offend, even if i did somehow.
> 
> With that said I think I shouldn't post anything further and derail the thread. I was just curious about the board beacause I'm 98% sure I'll go back to 2011 socket by next month.


Waiting isn't an option for a real enthusiast. You buy what you want now until the next comes, and then sell what you bought now and take the loss as "rental fees". Maybe, like ram, you make some money if you buy at the right time.

Haswell-E offers more CPU cache, more cores, but not more per-core performance, really. A bit, but small. We can estimate this easily given that Haswell cores are here already. Looking at performance testing shows most of the performance increase that Haswell has over IVB (and therefor IVB-E) shows that cache performance is where it's at, but I think that realistically speaking we are talking a 15% improvement with Haswell-E and DDR4. You've got to remember that most users are hardly using the bandwidth offered by IVB-E or any Intel chip, really. Faster memory benefits right now by latency only, pretty much. And early DDR4 won't have the latency needed to see the real potential, I think, as do many others. It's just how the memory market works, really.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Waiting isn't an option for a real enthusiast. You buy what you want now until the next comes, and then sell what you bought now and take the loss as "rental fees". Maybe, like ram, you make some money if you buy at the right time.
> 
> Haswell-E offers more CPU cache, more cores, but not more per-core performance, really. A bit, but small. We can estimate this easily given that Haswell cores are here already. Looking at performance testing shows most of the performance increase that Haswell has over IVB (and therefor IVB-E) shows that cache performance is where it's at, but I think that realistically speaking we are talking a 15% improvement with Haswell-E and DDR4. You've got to remember that most users are hardly using the bandwidth offered by IVB-E or any Intel chip, really. Faster memory benefits right now by latency only, pretty much. And early DDR4 won't have the latency needed to see the real potential, I think, as do many others. It's just how the memory market works, really.


Hey Cad,

I wanna give this one more shot while waiting on G Skill to send me the form.

Since we're dealing w/ sep kits, what other timings/settings would you suggest I look @ in the bios in a more advanced setting to help sync things up. I'm aware 2T is where I'll be at as 1T is only possible w/ say 16-32gb at most.

Timing wise since there's 4 settings x-x-x-x is there a ratio between them as I've seen up and down, as in relation to what settings should help what? I'm thinking of popping 1.7v on them, setting VTT/VCSAA back to auto which they'll more than likely hit 1.25-1.28 v each.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hey Cad,
> 
> I wanna give this one more shot while waiting on G Skill to send me the form.
> 
> Since we're dealing w/ sep kits, what other timings/settings would you suggest I look @ in the bios in a more advanced setting to help sync things up. I'm aware 2T is where I'll be at as 1T is only possible w/ say 16-32gb at most.
> 
> Timing wise since there's 4 settings x-x-x-x is there a ratio between them as I've seen up and down, as in relation to what settings should help what? I'm thinking of popping 1.7v on them, setting VTT/VCSAA back to auto which they'll more than likely hit 1.25-1.28 v each.


The best you can do is match the timings from the SPD into primary/secondary. Not all will be set correctly, likely.

But if I remember correctly, you had SPD error shown in BIOS with four sticks, so you need to fix that before you can do anything else. You should, if CPU is capable, just set XMP, and reboot. IF you cannot, then likely something else is wrong.

based on the layout of the SPD errors you showed, I'd be doing some DIMM swaps, and if that isn't fixed, than RMA is the only choice. And even if they send you 64 GB kit, there is not guarantee that CPU will do it on 100 BLCK, if at all.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> The best you can do is match the timings from the SPD into primary/secondary. Not all will be set correctly, likely.
> 
> But if I remember correctly, you had SPD error shown in BIOS with four sticks, so you need to fix that before you can do anything else. You should, if CPU is capable, just set XMP, and reboot. IF you cannot, then likely something else is wrong.
> 
> based on the layout of the SPD errors you showed, I'd be doing some DIMM swaps, and if that isn't fixed, than RMA is the only choice. And even if they send you 64 GB kit, there is not guarantee that CPU will do it on 100 BLCK, if at all.


Well only thing I can think of is the first set I put in the first 4 banks ( left side ) then the 2nd set set on the right side. Should I split each kit up as in put 1 kit in the correct 4 slots (channels) and 2nd kit int he correct channels as if installing only 32gb? Would that have any affect, though its still odd even though its set up like that they it still only recognizes 4.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Dear.. I was for 10 months #4, 6, and now 12+ on 3DMARK benchmarks because this mobo can do a sɥıʇ at this time.
> If you want to protect your GPU play Tetris or ask asus a bios.
> 
> 
> 
> I've only seen fixes in the new bios. The board wouldn't affect that unless you somehow fried the slots o_o what the hell were you pushing on those cards? LOL
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> ASUS designed first two bios for ladies that don't fit my build, I will be able to break one TITAN weekly with pleasure until the right bios will arrive.
> Enjoy your motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You still won't explain how the bios affects your GPU, did you end up messing w/ settings and forgot to set something or enabled LN2 + Extreme OV? I wouldn't dare go over 130% but it does go up to 160%
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I use those titans for 10 months on extreme with Rive daily with no problems. In less there two months with R4BE break 2 of them in the last 7 days. *I find this board very boring because all bios restrictions*. What you guys tested with Ln2 don't have nothing to do with water cooling. I am very interested to know how many i7-4960X you broken there guys as with water-cooling is almost impossible to do it. I invite you guys to play Tetris with your 4-way sli on r4be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> be safe!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wut? It gives you FULL access to literally EVERY bit and detail to tweak till your hearts content! LOL
Click to expand...

Why should I enable LN2 when I use water-cooling, please explain that?
Yes, I if find this mobo *boring* and *not for overclockers*, no one will come close to RIVE on 3DMARK by using watercooling on this board with the first two bios released. As I already break to Titans on r4be in a week period you should stop argue to me, my criticism should be take in consideration not only by you but also by ASUS. Regarding my "hearts content" You welcome to remove me not a problem.
Have a fun


----------



## seross69

Guys maybe I am stupid but I can not understand how a motherboard can blow GPU's?? Could someone help me here?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Guys maybe I am stupid but I can not understand how a motherboard can blow GPU's?? Could someone help me here?


it cannot.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> it cannot.


Thanks that is what I thought..


----------



## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> *I am not here to ask your help or need one*. How was that with LN2 Enable when I use watrerblocks?
> Edit. Who R U to change my post! I never post that


Than what are you doing on OCN? We're meant to be a community of tech enthusiasts that come together to discuss, learn from each other and show our achievements. Your pretentious attitude towards everybody is against everything I think OCN stands for and you are frustrating people across this entire site.

So you fried your titans using the R4BE?? Show us the pics, show us something that isn't a wall of text, by all accounts your fried your titan's because you pumped an insane amount of voltage through them.

/end rant


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> No, you make a valid point of argument. He had no less than 4 hex1500w classified if im not mistaken lol .. but you have to see my point aswell, i have yet to see r4be perform.. and then i read slinky's issues .. idk but on second consideration he has been pushing those titans fairly hard for a long period of time, and titan isnt a overclockers card at all! The vrms the pcb it's all mainstream config. Comparing with 780ti KPE since we're in to dropping his name now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but honestly I'm running 2x 780 Lightning .. compared to titan which nvidia wouldn't let manufacturers do any changes to. Well it's an OT discussion, but I guess common sense tells us titan was never made to be pushed for overclocking, so blaming a mobo for it might not make that much sense ..
> 
> Well, can one of the bench geeks push the bord and show us that it infact is "stable and without hassle" ..?
> 
> Would be very interesting and atleast I would take that result in to consideration for upcoming paycheck usage
> ^_^


titans overclock really well, specially with the tools made available to us to tweak voltages. The power section wasn't built to handle 1.4V like Lightning/Classi cards, but they still kick their fair share of ass. Hell, most people on here still can't beat MRTOOSHORT's water cooled Titan clocks. Anyone pushing 1500mhz(slinky) on a titan is asking for it to explode, on any motherboard. Dark is easily the buggier board out of the two here. What KP does for LN2 benching has little reflection on what we do with 24/7 runs. He only needs to board to function for a short period of time, @ a time. While we need 24/7 functionality. You have plenty of people here that are having zero issues with this board. You also have a few people who did have issues, which were only resolved via RMA (early adopters fee) then you have the user error crowd.

Blaming this motherboard for the death of titans being pushed to 1500mhz is completely asinine, he knows it, and we know it. He's just looking for an outlet to vent his frustration, as he should know he's the only reason the cards died. He has no proof, and has not even tried to make a statement as to how exactly the bios/board killed his cards.

you enable LN2 mode by removing a little shorting switch from a 3 pin getup north of the start button.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Guys maybe I am stupid but I can not understand how a motherboard can blow GPU's?? Could someone help me here?


the only way I see it being possible is if the pci-e switch fried, which could only happen via water leak, or extreme bios failure. Iv'e also seen people fry cards from not having the additional PCI-E power plugged in. @least, that ended up being the general consensus.

Vanilla RIVE is obviously gods gift to motherboards, and released 100% flawless from the factory. Just don't go look @ the first 6 months worth of posts in the club.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Why should I enable LN2 when I use water-cooling, please explain that?
> Yes, I if find this mobo *boring* and *not for overclockers*, no one will come close to RIVE on 3DMARK by using watercooling on this board with the first two bios released. As I already break to Titans on r4be in a week period you should stop argue to me, my criticism should be take in consideration not only by you but also by ASUS. Regarding my "hearts content" You welcome to remove me not a problem.
> Have a fun


This board has all the records on hwbot lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Guys maybe I am stupid but I can not understand how a motherboard can blow GPU's?? Could someone help me here?


Asus is new to making high end motherboards, so the faulty design resulted in the pci-e slot overloading and blowing up a titan.
/endsarcasm


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you enable LN2 mode by removing a little shorting switch from a 3 pin getup north of the start button.


Do you even have one of these boards?







No pins involved. It's a swith that gets flipped, and it's right by the power switch, in a way that if your finger slips you accidentally turn OFF LN2 mode, not enable it.

Also, VGAs pull power via PCIe, and a bad power design could cause problems with multiple GPUs, giving vdroop that might get overshot and then perhaps kill a card or two.

But...only if pushing those cards really hard. At which point ol Slinky here might have a point.


----------



## Errorist66

Not too bad.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> This board has all the records on hwbot lol.


That is what I was about to say, almost.
The R4E/R4BE are widely used by us, random OCers as well as known world record mens. Look at the top 100 of any Futuremark scores and you'll see them everywhere!








I've been looking at this thread cause I wanted the BE, but it's still not available here(and if it is, it's "au compte-gouttes"). Plus it cost 100€ more for features that won't change my life, I'm sure the R4E will do just fine... as soon as I have the case and power supply to start the build, lol.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Why should I enable LN2 when I use water-cooling, please explain that?
> Yes, I if find this mobo *boring* and *not for overclockers*, no one will come close to RIVE on 3DMARK by using watercooling on this board with the first two bios released. As I already break to Titans on r4be in a week period you should stop argue to me, my criticism should be take in consideration not only by you but also by ASUS. Regarding my "hearts content" You welcome to remove me not a problem.
> Have a fun
> 
> 
> 
> This board has all the records on hwbot lol.
Click to expand...

The Intel i-7 4960X is the one to make the records not r4be.
Is a good board for Ln2 or for those who like to use cpu at 1.3V or so, I have another intake.


----------



## seross69

I had not been keeping up with this thread and I see it is now full or trolls... not even fun to read any more... I have not made the jump from RIVE to BE but still like reading and learning what I might be missing...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Do you even have one of these boards?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No pins involved. It's a swith that gets flipped, and it's right by the power switch, in a way that if your finger slips you accidentally turn OFF LN2 mode, not enable it.
> 
> Also, VGAs pull power via PCIe, and a bad power design could cause problems with multiple GPUs, giving vdroop that might get overshot and then perhaps kill a card or two.
> 
> But...only if pushing those cards really hard. At which point ol Slinky here might have a point.


That switch is for "slow mode" unless slow mode is now code for LN2.



by the way slinky...










Does your motherboard now look like this?

or does your titan look like this?


----------



## Kimir

You are right, the pin is LN2 mode and the switch next to it is the slow mode (that might have it's main use on LN2, true that).


----------



## skupples




----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That switch is for "slow mode" unless slow mode is now code for LN2.
> 
> 
> 
> by the way slinky...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does your motherboard now look like this?
> 
> or does your titan look like this?


Outch, how much voltage one would have to push to fry the PCI-E slot and the Titan board like this?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Do you even have one of these boards?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No pins involved. It's a swith that gets flipped, and it's right by the power switch, in a way that if your finger slips you accidentally turn OFF LN2 mode, not enable it.
> 
> Also, VGAs pull power via PCIe, and a bad power design could cause problems with multiple GPUs, giving vdroop that might get overshot and then perhaps kill a card or two.
> 
> But...only if pushing those cards really hard. At which point ol Slinky here might have a point.
> 
> 
> 
> . That switch is for "slow mode" unless slow mode is now code for LN2.
> 
> 
> 
> by the way slinky...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does your motherboard now look like this?
> 
> or does your titan look like this?
Click to expand...

no one of them, the gpu just fail. Was replaced and in 5 hours the new fail also. When used on 4-way sli the screen is distortion with green images. No one have a beater benchmarks on 3dmark after switch from rive to this one. They use i7-4960x in SF event to make those records just to make you buy this ... as I do. You like it, good for you guys.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Guys maybe I am stupid but I can not understand how a motherboard can blow GPU's?? Could someone help me here?
> 
> 
> 
> it cannot.
Click to expand...

very very not likely, imo it would have to happen right out of the box, IE having a bad trace, or by ( user error or water leak ) shorting something out

in the pics above where the traces and socket is damaged i can tell you that is from neither but caused by user error, that is a card pulling too many amps and burning !


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> no one of them, the gpu just fail.
> Was replaced and in 5 hours the new one when used on 4-way sli the screen is distortion with green images.
> No one have a beater benchmarks on 3dmark after switch from rive to this one.


It's hard to understand your broken english, so forgive me. You are saying it just magically stopped working? Have you tried the supposed affected card in a different computer? Have you tried reformatting your computer? If you have no physical damage to the card, IE: Burnt mosfets/VRM's/inductors/Memory chips then it's probably not the GPU, or the motherboard, but software.

The clock speeds you linked in Titan club the other day are the kinda speeds that break Nvidia drivers, & screw with operating systems.

You should really take some time & go look @ the first 3-4 months worth of posts in the RIVE owners club. It parallels this one to a T.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> very very not likely, imo it would have to happen right out of the box, IE having a bad trace, or by ( user error or water leak ) shorting something out
> 
> in the pics above where the traces and socket is damaged i can tell you that is from neither but caused by user error, that is a card pulling too many amps and burning !


Correct. The picture above shows a reference Tahiti PCB. While we don't know what happened to that card, we have seen similar things happen to Tahiti's when they lose their water/air cooling, & proceed to cook them selves to death.

The pictures above are linked from my "Facts & fallacies of the burned Taiwanese 780Ti" Thread.... Those pictures were provided by ChipHell as a burned up 780Ti... Turns out it's not even an nvidia card, but a tahiti of some sort.









Was an epic level of troll. The story had circled the internet 10 times before we could figure out what was really going on. Occam and I knew from the start that it wasn't a 780Ti, we just had to find what it ACTUALLY was.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> no one of them, the gpu just fail.
> Was replaced and in 5 hours the new one when used on 4-way sli the screen is distortion with green images.
> No one have a beater benchmarks on 3dmark after switch from rive to this one.
> 
> 
> 
> It's hard to understand your broken english, so forgive me. You are saying it just magically stopped working? Have you tried the supposed affected card in a different computer? Have you tried reformatting your computer? If you have no physical damage to the card, IE: Burnt mosfets/VRM's/inductors/Memory chips then it's probably not the GPU, or the motherboard, but software.
> 
> The clock speeds you linked in Titan club the other day are the kinda speeds that break Nvidia drivers, & screw with operating systems.
> 
> You should really take some time & go look @ the first 3-4 months worth of posts in the RIVE owners club. It parallels this one to a T.
Click to expand...

that clock speeds was make it with rive not r4be. I will go back to rive if not real bios will be released (next time) for this think.
the board is fine (try to use the new titan for 5 hours on a new slat ad was ok) just is unable in confront with rive


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Slinky you know theres a problem when i agree with skupples or luna Bro stop blaming the board for randomly frying your gpus. Its a decent board. I have been stable since day one. Send those titians in and they send you new ones to try and fry


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> that clock speeds was make it with rive not r4be. I will go back to rive if not real bios will be released (next time) for this think.
> the board is fine (try to use the newtitan foir 5 hours on a new slat ad was ok) just is unable in confront with rive


not trying to be rude, but this is complete & total incoherence. Iv'e seen you type in almost perfect english before. Why does the quality of your grammar always start to fall off when you get into debates with people over nonsense?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> The Intel i-7 4960X is the one to make the records not r4be.
> Is a good board for Ln2 or for those who like to use cpu at 1.3V or so, I have another intake.


It's the 4960x/4930k paired with the RIVBE...
http://hwbot.org/submission/2450660_wizerty_cinebench_r11.5_core_i7_4930k_19.08_points

Ln2 or cpu at 1.3? Where exactly are you at if not between 1.3v and ln2 voltage... stock? lol


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Slinky you know theres a problem when i agree with skupples or luna Bro stop blaming the board for randomly frying your gpus. Its a decent board. I have been stable since day one. Send those titians in and they send you new ones to try and fry


forget me, don't understand me bad. yes is a good mb and don't want to go back to rive as is more stabile, but also is less performance for more money especial if you buy a beater ram that can perform at 2800mhz not 2400 as rive.

Edit: I spend so much for this unable r4be switch, hopefully asus will do something about with the next bios.
To all members on Overclock.net that own a rive and don't have $$$$ for the upgrade, DON'T DO IT (with firs-2 bios tested) OR YOU WILL REGRET IT! (I'm an artist not a technician, don't hate on that







)


----------



## skupples

Bro, that's not 3dmark, or MEMTWEEKIT, thus doesn't matter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> forget me, don't understand me bad. yes is a good mb and don't want to go back to rive more stabile that rive but is less performance for a loth more money if you think you have to buy a beater ram that can perform at 2800mhz not 2400 as rive.


Once again... You should really go read the bios progression in the RIVE thread. It went through the exact same growing pains.

Enjoy your switch back to red & black.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Bro, that's not 3dmark, or MEMTWEEKIT, thus doesn't matter.


Matter to me the results on 3DMark, sorry


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> that clock speeds was make it with rive not r4be. I will go back to rive if not real bios will be released (next time) for this think.
> the board is fine (try to use the newtitan foir 5 hours on a new slat ad was ok) just is unable in confront with rive


I am sorry to say this but it really seems to me that you are clueless on this board and just like to brag. I do not own this board yet but know the RIVE had more problems than this to begin with... Just reading and following this seeing your post and nonsense makes me want to stop following this thread again...


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Matter to me the results on 3DMark, sorry


World records 3dmark11:
1x gpu: http://hwbot.org/submission/2493532_8_pack_3dmark11___performance_geforce_gtx_780_ti_23442_marks
2x gpu: http://hwbot.org/submission/2484869_8_pack_3dmark11___performance_2x_radeon_r9_290x_33216_marks
3x gpu: http://hwbot.org/submission/2484864_8_pack_3dmark11___performance_3x_radeon_r9_290x_39308_marks
4x gpu: http://hwbot.org/submission/2498109_teamau_3dmark11___performance_4x_radeon_r9_290x_41700_marks

Notice how every single one is using a RIVBE?


----------



## skupples

no firemark xtreme, care no.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*










skupples


----------



## szeged

if you get rid of your rampage black what motherboard will you get slinky?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> if you get rid of your rampage black what motherboard will you get slinky?


I will go back to rive if not a decent bios will be released soon
This my last post is for a friend that invite me to overclock.net







szeged


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I will go back to rive if not a decent bios will be released soon
> This my last post is for a friend that invite me to overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> szeged


i think you should stay on OCN, maybe just avoid the people you are having problems with


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I will go back to rive if not a decent bios will be released soon
> This my last post is for a friend that invite me to overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> szeged


I was very close to getting a RIVE, but then I found out my BSOD were due to having an operating system that I installed while using a 3770k and Gigabyte board. It worked fine when I switched TO x79 also on a Gigabyte board, but went to hell when I added this Asus Board. Turns out it wasn't the board after all. So, now I'm just going to hang on to it.

In reality, you should get the same cpu clocks on both RIVE and R4BE. AC WIFI and Bluetooth you can get with a usb dongle.


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Cleaned.








more input and less bashing.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*
> 
> Cleaned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more input and less bashing.


Sheeeeeshhhhh,

And I just put some fresh popcorn on . . . . .









And yes, the popcorn maker is overclocked and water cooled . . .

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Can do a bag of popcorn, with 99% of kernels popped in 10 seconds!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> that clock speeds was make it with rive not r4be. I will go back to rive if not real bios will be released (next time) for this think.
> the board is fine (try to use the newtitan foir 5 hours on a new slat ad was ok) just is unable in confront with rive
> 
> 
> 
> I am sorry to say this but it really seems to me that you are clueless on this board and just like to brag. I do not own this board yet but know the RIVE had more problems than this to begin with... Just reading and following this seeing your post and nonsense makes me want to stop following this thread again...
Click to expand...

dont do it we likes you heres !


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sheeeeeshhhhh,
> 
> And I just put some fresh popcorn on . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, the popcorn maker is overclocked and water cooled . . .
> 
> Darlene


blah, water cooling is boring.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sheeeeeshhhhh,
> 
> And I just put some fresh popcorn on . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, the popcorn maker is overclocked and water cooled . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> blah, water cooling is boring.
Click to expand...

I agree, but I haven't got the transverse interferangeal transmolecular hydrocoptic mazelvanes cooling system debugged completely yet . . . .

I keep getting random time travel anomalies and all I want is some damn popcorn . . . .









D.


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I agree, but I haven't got the transverse interferangeal transmolecular hydrocoptic mazelvanes cooling system debugged completely yet . . . .
> 
> I keep getting random time travel anomalies and all I want is some damn popcorn . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.












Dat's good right there !!!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I agree, but I haven't got the transverse interferangeal transmolecular hydrocoptic mazelvanes cooling system debugged completely yet . . . .
> 
> I keep getting random time travel anomalies and all I want is some damn popcorn . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


What? lol


----------



## yttocstfarc

Ok guys here is the final Parts List for my build, and total cost. -> http://pcpartpicker.com/user/bassfisher0703/saved/3Lds Lemmie know what you guys think. How did I do? Only thing left is the CPU, Motherboard, and the Last GPU. Last parts be here Monday then gotta find time to run up to Microcenter to get the CPU and Motherboard. Can't Wait!!


----------



## BaldGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Gonna go w/ the 2400 ripjaws and just downclock to 2133 for better latency.


Since you called the ripjaws Z mediocre and said the Tridents was better and it seemed you wanted to go with them, what changed your mind?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaldGuy*
> 
> Since you called the ripjaws Z mediocre and said the Tridents was better and it seemed you wanted to go with them, what changed your mind?


Because there apparently are no 64gb kits for the X series sadly, that + G Skill submitted me for RJZ's since that's all they have available to send me they said.

Anyone here have 64gb of RAM installed that could post their Aida64 Cache & Memory Benchmarks?

Ran a couple and I think I'm starting to understand my throttling a bit at times, as I'm barely within half the measurements of what most of you are getting.

Running in BLCK 125 currently since I was attempting to bump back to 2133 which I can't do anymore sadly.

@2000


@1333


Curious to see others.


----------



## szeged

guys can we please just put each other on ignore or something? id hate to see this thread thats been great so far turn into a little pissing match here.


----------



## skupples




----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Cleaned again. And 1 person removed.
Let's not continue like this, Good constructive input is better.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Curious to see others.


Looks borkaborkborked to me.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Waiting isn't an option for a real enthusiast. You buy what you want now until the next comes, and then sell what you bought now and take the loss as "rental fees". Maybe, like ram, you make some money if you buy at the right time.
> 
> Haswell-E offers more CPU cache, more cores, but not more per-core performance, really. A bit, but small. We can estimate this easily given that Haswell cores are here already. Looking at performance testing shows most of the performance increase that Haswell has over IVB (and therefor IVB-E) shows that cache performance is where it's at, but I think that realistically speaking we are talking a 15% improvement with Haswell-E and DDR4. You've got to remember that most users are hardly using the bandwidth offered by IVB-E or any Intel chip, really. Faster memory benefits right now by latency only, pretty much. And early DDR4 won't have the latency needed to see the real potential, I think, as do many others. It's just how the memory market works, really.


Yea, good input. And a very valid point, I'll get the rampage mobo with a 4930k .. Who can wait, right? ^_^ Thanks to all of you for helping me decide ♥

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Not saying you're quoting just that you're getting your information from a very bad source, and that's the only way you would have said something like that. Case point Slinky literally blew his cards up lol.
> 
> I'll load BF4 tomorrow and tell you, what settings would you like me to apply etc.
> 
> I run in 7860x1440 surround mode btw, so this is where I benefit from the Titans, I'm not saying nor ever said the 780's are bad, just I don't want to be limited to locked voltage ( OC Wall) or 3GB of ram when surround clearly hits and breaks the 3gb limits now hitting upwards 4-5gb in some new tests, and I want something that's gonna kick it for a couple years till the next best thing (8gb + ) comes out.
> 
> If you're not running Surround above 5760x1080 then you should be fine but the extra RAM etc helps flex the muscles. That said, let me know what settings, what map etc, I haven't gotten past the introduction stage as I installed it previously with my 2 Titans in surround before building my newer system.
> 
> If it helps at ALL for now, here's a recent benchmark ( minimum OC nothing high as I was verifying I didn't have drivers issues after a high OC lol ) from TR w/ max settings minux TressFX. Only other programs open were Chrome ( 200+ tabs cuz I love it like that <3 )and 1 VM (windows XP )
> 
> I can't embed here since the image size is ridiculous but here you go.
> 
> (warning b/w intensive )
> 
> Tomb Raider bench (not like it matters most computers can run this )
> 
> Anywhoo let me know I'll gladly pop some screenshots.
> 
> Or pop over to the dinosaur club there's a ton of us that can produce if you'd like <3


Well I see you edit your text, but sure... I usually run SLI, but here's a SINGLE card 780 Lightning, Firestrike 1,1 at moderate/high OC



http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1722279


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Looks borkaborkborked to me.


So I finally pulled out both kits, was looking @ Them trying to discern the difference and finally saw it, one kit was made in JUL and the other in DEC.

Stuck in the DEC for now, popped it down to 2133



Still curious to see if any 64gb kits hit up higher than what I was running as that was really odd. Gonna run some game tests and see if this fixes some of the droops.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Well I see you edit your text


I edited it nearly the same time I posted it prior to your follow up post lol.

If I can ever get 3Dmark to work properly I'll post some scores, for now it just loads hangs, then goes into a full screen all black. Been seeing similar issues on the net. It's the only issue thus far.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So I finally pulled out both kits, was looking @ Them trying to discern the difference and finally saw it, one kit was made in JUL and the other in DEC.
> 
> Stuck in the DEC for now, popped it down to 2133


JUL sticks might actually clock a bit better, if my hunch is correct. Both should give the numbers you got there, + a little bit when tweaked.

Anyway...Much better!

try 2400 now, with that one kit, should be 65k or so...!!!

Of course, that 65K, not every controller will do well, but you can try 2333...2133 MHz divider @ 125 BCLK.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> JUL sticks might actually clock a bit better, if my hunch is correct. Both should give the numbers you got there, + a little bit when tweaked.
> 
> Anyway...Much better!
> 
> try 2400 now, with that one kit, should be 65k or so...!!!
> 
> Of course, that 65K, not every controller will do well, but you can try 2333...2133 MHz divider @ 125 BCLK.


I got into windows once @ 2400

but both 2133 and 2400 randomly shut down the computer. No bluescreen just whole system shut down, now I can't get in no matter how much I give it. Windows freezes everytime @ startup. I've hella laxed timings too and XMP no longer works well it might @ default but it defaults my system to 3.6ghz if anything. I'll try 125 clocks.

After which I put all bac kin but the DEC in in ch 1 and JUL in ch 2 pumped Dram V to 1.7 and gave VTT 1.25 and VCCSA 1.25 and still couldn't hit windows no matter what speed I set down to 1600 lol... either I really have a crappy controller or I really have bad luck w/ my ram kit.

I swapped the DEC for the JUL sticks now Still can't get into windows, I've already reset bios as well.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I got into windows once @ 2400
> 
> but both 2133 and 2400 randomly shut down the computer. No bluescreen just whole system shut down, now I can't get in no matter how much I give it. Windows freezes everytime @ startup. I've hella laxed timings too and XMP no longer works well it might @ default but it defaults my system to 3.6ghz if anything. I'll try 125 clocks.
> 
> After which I put all bac kin but the DEC in in ch 1 and JUL in ch 2 pumped Dram V to 1.7 and gave VTT 1.25 and VCCSA 1.25 and still couldn't hit windows no matter what speed I set down to 1600 lol... either I really have a crappy controller or I really have bad luck w/ my ram kit.
> 
> I swapped the DEC for the JUL sticks now Still can't get into windows, I've already reset bios as well.


running 2000 MHz was unstable, by the numbers given, so it sounds like a gunky OS. Do not loosen timings...adjust voltages only.

higher-than-needed VTT and VCCSA can cause issues, too, so start @ 0.900 V on VCCSA and 1.05V on VTT. If no boot, increase VTT to 1.25V...or VCCSA...and you should be able to take it from there?

After adding sticks, etc, you must always clear CMOS by "loading optimized defaults"


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> running 2000 MHz was unstable, by the numbers given, so it sounds like a gunky OS. Do not loosen timings...adjust voltages only.
> 
> higher-than-needed VTT and VCCSA can cause issues, too, so start @ 0.900 V on VCCSA and 1.05V on VTT. If no boot, increase VTT to 1.25V...or VCCSA...and you should be able to take it from there?
> 
> *After adding sticks, etc, you must always clear CMOS by "loading optimized defaults"*


Ah didn't know that.

and also was setting high VTT/VCCSA in hopes of working down but I"ll work the other way up .... so far 125 block seems to be the ticket.

Here's @ 2400 which loaded up seemingly fine w/ the DEC batch.



Here's the July batch on 2333 block 125 , surprisingly enough seems like 2333 is the sweet spot as 2400 you see a dip in the Write.



Here's my settings thus far =w=;;


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*


Getting there!









Gotta do the reset so that things like bank/rank interleave and such is reset.

Throw up some memtweakit shots, man! That's far more useful. Try the TurboV Lite tool to show voltages and such easy. VRM settings will change with CPU, but the other info can be used by others!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Getting there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta do the reset so that things like bank/rank interleave and such is reset.
> 
> Throw up some memtweakit shots, man! That's far more useful. Try the TurboV Lite tool to show voltages and such easy. VRM settings will change with CPU, but the other info can be used by others!


Updated previous post w/ more photos.

Kk reset bios reset settings, lowered things down a bit.


----------



## webhito

So an update of my actual temperature issue I was having all this time, I finally got my modest oc to 4.2 but at a really good load temperature, 68c under prime and it stays there, I was getting over 78c and it was due to the fans I had replaced the original ones with, had no idea how much static pressure helped with these rads but holy crap, from 40c idle to 33 and 68c under full load, gaming I never go over 55. I had replaced the original h100i fans with 2 x jet flo's and after that purhased some sp 120's. I finally put the original ones as I had never mounted them before and bam... Should have done that long ago and I would have saved a few bucks and headaches. Just wanted to let others know in case they ever run into the same issue!


----------



## sabishiihito

Count me in?

http://valid.canardpc.com/vek8fa


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Wish i was a lighting specialist. I revamped my lighting. But im still not impressed. Anyone got any pointers?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Wish i was a lighting specialist. I revamped my lighting. But im still not impressed. Anyone got any pointers?


There are light covers you can get that spread the light out evenly similar to lightboxes B-Negative uses them forgot the name.

@Cada

I'm starting to think my chip sucks IMC wise. Regardless I can't get 2400 stable on 1 kit , regardless of which kit. Been blue screen after blue screen after blue screen.

1333 is the only thing stable. 1866 crashes 1600 crashes 2133 crashes 2000 crashes 2333 crashes etc. I bumped VTT to match my vcore and bumped VSSCA to 1.15 as well heck even 1.25 for all and still as soon as I run an Aida64 bench it dies, either whole comp locks up or a get a blue screen.

Caught one blue screen

"A clock cycle was not received in a timely manner from a 2ndary processor..."

Any last suggestions.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> @Cada
> 
> I'm starting to think my chip sucks IMC wise. Regardless I can't get 2400 stable on 1 kit , regardless of which kit. Been blue screen after blue screen after blue screen.
> 
> 1333 is the only thing stable. 1866 crashes 1600 crashes 2133 crashes 2000 crashes 2333 crashes etc. I bumped VTT to match my vcore and bumped VSSCA to 1.15 as well heck even 1.25 for all and still as soon as I run an Aida64 bench it dies, either whole comp locks up or a get a blue screen.
> 
> Caught one blue screen
> 
> "A clock cycle was not received in a timely manner from a 2ndary processor..."
> 
> Any last suggestions.


You can try 1.35v for vtt. Put it for 2nd vtt also since that is for the other 2 channels.
1866 is supported by the chip so it's not a "weak" imc
Are you running xmp?


----------



## szeged

am i crazy for wanting to sell my 5.0 24/7 4930k to get another few 4770ks to bin?


----------



## Doug2507

Not at all depending on what you use it for.

Got one still sat here that could make a return journey... caugh caugh.


----------



## Mega Man

no, ill give you $5 for it !


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> You can try 1.35v for vtt. Put it for 2nd vtt also since that is for the other 2 channels.
> 1866 is supported by the chip so it's not a "weak" imc
> Are you running xmp?


Yes currently tried so before as well. I cant get either kit to play nice separated either. Back at 2333 gonna see how that plays out.

Seems 125 block bests 100 for this ram. Hopefully the rjzs will do better.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> am i crazy for wanting to sell my 5.0 24/7 4930k to get another few 4770ks to bin?


What voltage for 5 ? If under 1.4 then yes lol


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Not at all depending on what you use it for.
> 
> *Got one still sat here that could make a return journey... caugh caugh. :thumb*:


i may take you up on that, ill let you know









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What voltage for 5 ? If under 1.4 then yes lol


1.42


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

1,42V for a 5GHz chip that can´t run on this voltage for more the 1h under Prime maybe...
1,45+ for 24/7 then this may be and sounds much more real to me.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> 1,42V for a 5GHz chip that can´t run on this voltage for more the 1h under Prime maybe...
> 1,45+ for 24/7 then this may be and sounds much more real to me.


ive been using it @ 4.9 ghz for about a month at 1.4v 24/7 so i decided to see if it would do 5.0 stable at 1.4, it would complete some benchmarks and stress tests, but i needed to give it 1.42 to complete everything without any troubles. 5.0 24/7 @ 1.42v for a little over two weeks now.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Then congrats to you chip !








Any Prime 95 test ?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Then congrats to you chip !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Prime 95 test ?


no screen shots atm, i wiped my ssd because of windows problems and didnt save the pictures.

My rig is in pieces atm to clean the water loop, but when i get it back together, probably around wednesday or thursday, ill run prime95 for you and take pics


----------



## Doug2507

The worst thing you can do to that chip on those volts is run prime on it!! No need!!!!


----------



## oelkanne

just do something useful instead =) [email protected] to test if the system runs well


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> 5.0 24/7 @ 1.42v for a little over two weeks now.


Mine need 1.46V h2o for 5G



Only run 5G for benching though and no heavy tests like prime. I want to make it last until next gen platform


----------



## asfgbdnf

Hi guys,

Does anyone know where I can find a list of golden 3970x batch number?


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Have you looked on HWBot Forum?

http://forum.hwbot.org/index.php
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> no screen shots atm, i wiped my ssd because of windows problems and didnt save the pictures.
> 
> My rig is in pieces atm to clean the water loop, but when i get it back together, probably around wednesday or thursday, ill run prime95 for you and take pics


Great, iám looking forward !


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

;(


----------



## gogolXmogol

Hy guys! I'm new to the forum and I appreciate your help with the issue I'm having. =)

*Is anyone running air cooler on the Rampage IV BE board here? I've searched all over the web to find whether the Archon SB-E X2 or noctua NH-U14S or any other decent cooler are compatible with the board without limiting the RAM or first PIC-E slots?*

I do currently have the Rampage IV Black Edition board, G.Skill TridentX RAM which is 54 mm height and I'm planning on use both PCI-E x16 slots with a sapphire 290x tri-x.
My current dilemma is to choose proper air cooling for the CPU and push the 4930k a bit over 4GHz mark.

I do have the water loop components purchased but I'm kinda afraid to build it now for the 24/7 usage lol. As well as I am not ready to spend another $300 on the videocards blocks, and without cooling the 290x's it's just a waste. So I decided to go old fashion air and sell all water components..


----------



## Mydog

Just started a move my hardware from one Lian Li PC343B-XT early beta model to a new retail. And in the process I'm changing mobo and CPU from RIVE and 3960X to RIVBE and 4960X.

One naked and one "dressed" case











RIVBE in place


----------



## skupples

that thing looks like a caselabs!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> @Cada
> 
> I'm starting to think my chip sucks IMC wise. Regardless I can't get 2400 stable on 1 kit , regardless of which kit. Been blue screen after blue screen after blue screen.
> 
> 1333 is the only thing stable. 1866 crashes 1600 crashes 2133 crashes 2000 crashes 2333 crashes etc. I bumped VTT to match my vcore and bumped VSSCA to 1.15 as well heck even 1.25 for all and still as soon as I run an Aida64 bench it dies, either whole comp locks up or a get a blue screen.
> 
> Caught one blue screen
> 
> "A clock cycle was not received in a timely manner from a 2ndary processor..."
> 
> Any last suggestions.


Of course.










I see you have CPU, DIMM and VCCSA current in DiGi+ set to 130%. Tsk, Tsk.

Extreme loadline on all?

Yeah, let's shove the current down everything, that'll fix it!


















try 180% CPU, high or very high LLC. VCCSA to 130%, but high LLC. DRAM, 100%, optimized LLC.

Then, start at 1.05V VTT, and 0.900V VCCSA...try boot. increase VCCSA first, but try to maintain ratio between VTT and VCCSA. Think of it in steps..data goes from ram @ 1/2 ram voltage, to VCCSA, to VTT, to CPU. You need to maintain that relationship between those voltages as much as is possible.

Also, you should have cleared CMOS with optimized defaults, enabled XMP, then adjusted secondary timings to match what's in SPD tool in BIOS. A few timings will be off. At the same time, G.Skill uses very low tWCL, usually @ 7, and you might need 8 or 9, or maybe 10...check what the DIMMs request, and what the BIOS sets. Also, I feel all timings are adjusted to provide -1 tWCL, so 9 is like 8, 8 like 7, etc, etc.

Lastly, DRAM tREFI is not always set accurately. Some sticks ask for 7.8, some for 3.9....sometimes BIOS sets 7.3, or other weird stuff with 8 GB DIMMs. So play with tRFC and tREFI, try to get that 7.8us.

as a guide, for settings in BIOS,

2133 MHz = 8320
2400 MHz = 9360
2600 MHz = 10140
2666 MHz = 10400
2800 MHz = 10920

I know, by now, you're like "huh!?!".


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Have you looked on HWBot Forum?
> 
> http://forum.hwbot.org/index.php
> Great, iám looking forward !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> ;(


I'm waiting too, since he posted he had it 5ghz stable in Ivy thread several weeks ago.








This is all I see atm.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Ok, one of so many, he won the lottery.







very unique !
I think it is not worth it to me to wait until for this one good chip
fourteen that must be more than enough to select !


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I'm waiting too, since he posted he had it 5ghz stable in Ivy thread several weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all I see atm.


Soon my friend, almost done cleaning my loop


----------



## skupples

He did link a CPU-Z @ some point a few weeks ago.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Hi skupples happy to see you here









Has he a real prove Prime 95 for a few hours with CPU-Z Validation of something ?


----------



## szeged

The cpuz I linked was 5.1 it was somewhat stable but needed more voltage than I liked for 24/7, it can boot at 5.2 & 5.3 but the volts it needs aren't close to safe for water even in winter. I think I got a good chip, not golden exactly but still good and if it does eventuallybsod for me at 5.0 you guys would be the first to know


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> He did link a CPU-Z @ some point a few weeks ago.


I'd be happy to see a R15 run.







I can boot 5ghz.


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah didn't know that.
> 
> and also was setting high VTT/VCCSA in hopes of working down but I"ll work the other way up .... so far 125 block seems to be the ticket.
> 
> Here's @ 2400 which loaded up seemingly fine w/ the DEC batch.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the July batch on 2333 block 125 , surprisingly enough seems like 2333 is the sweet spot as 2400 you see a dip in the Write.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my settings thus far =w=;;
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


After you do the CMOS reset and load defaults, take a picture of all the timings for the RAM under default. Then, when you overclock the RAM carefully compare the secondary and tertiary timings between the overclocked and standard values.

From my experience the tRDRD value when overclocking was being set to a value of 8 and it was giving me 50% less on write speed when benchmarking. I changed the tRDRD value to 4 (the stock value was 4) and the write speeds immediately matched the read and copy speeds.

Some background on the settings logic from ASUS:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Third Timings

On modern architectures like Haswell, page access is optimized such that back to back read timings in the third timing section can have a bigger impact on performance than primary settings. Memory interleaving and addressing optimization leads to the possibility of lots back to back read and writes (page hits) rather than random access (page misses).

In layman terms, the best way to describe this is to use the analogy of a hard drive. If data is fragmented, the head needs to move back and forth over the platter reading small bits of data. Similarly on memory, this would mean that CAS, wCL, tRCD, tRP and tRAS would factor more often - opening and closing memory pages across the DIMMs to read or write parts of data.

If data is not fragmented, the head can seek an area of the disc and read the data without needed to move back and forth. On a crude level, memory interleaving works in a similar way, ensuring that data is arranged into rows across ICs so that pages don't have to be open and closed as often to access it - this saves on excessive primary timing command requirements. That's why some of the back to back read and write timings in the third timing section of UEFI have a bigger impact on performance than the primary timings which were more important on older platforms.

If the required data is in sequence, CAS can be performed to access it and subsequent requests can be spaced by tRDRD (as low as 4 clocks). A lot of these requests can be sent before a page close request is required - which relies on the primary timing set (tRAS then tRP (tRC must elapse) followed by tRCD and then CAS). That's why the third timing spacing has more impact in memory sensitive benchmarks (memory frequency and other factors aside).

*tRDRD:* Sets the delay between consecutive read requests to the same page. From a performance perspective, this setting is best kept at 4 clocks. Relax only if the memory is not stable or the system will not POST. Very few memory modules can handle a setting of 4 clocks at speeds above DDR3-2400 so you may need to relax accordingly, although the performance hit may negate any gains in frequency.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see you have CPU, DIMM and VCCSA current in DiGi+ set to 130%. Tsk, Tsk.
> 
> Extreme loadline on all?
> 
> *Yeah, let's shove the current down everything, that'll fix it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> try 180% CPU, high or very high LLC. VCCSA to 130%, but high LLC. DRAM, 100%, optimized LLC.
> 
> Then, start at 1.05V VTT, and 0.900V VCCSA...try boot. increase VCCSA first, but try to maintain ratio between VTT and VCCSA. Think of it in steps..data goes from ram @ 1/2 ram voltage, to VCCSA, to VTT, to CPU. You need to maintain that relationship between those voltages as much as is possible.
> 
> Also, you should have cleared CMOS with optimized defaults, enabled XMP, then adjusted secondary timings to match what's in SPD tool in BIOS. A few timings will be off. At the same time, G.Skill uses very low tWCL, usually @ 7, and you might need 8 or 9, or maybe 10...check what the DIMMs request, and what the BIOS sets. Also, I feel all timings are adjusted to provide -1 tWCL, so 9 is like 8, 8 like 7, etc, etc.
> 
> Lastly, DRAM tREFI is not always set accurately. Some sticks ask for 7.8, some for 3.9....sometimes BIOS sets 7.3, or other weird stuff with 8 GB DIMMs. So play with tRFC and tREFI, try to get that 7.8us.
> 
> as a guide, for settings in BIOS,
> 
> 2133 MHz = 8320
> 2400 MHz = 9360
> 2600 MHz = 10140
> 2666 MHz = 10400
> 2800 MHz = 10920
> 
> I know, by now, you're like "huh!?!".


Lol hey trial and error right?







and no actually been reading up alot so I'm following pretty well, and I've been reading up on the diff stetings as well.

For TwCL did you mean tRRD?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iatacs19*
> 
> After you do the CMOS reset and load defaults, take a picture of all the timings for the RAM under default. Then, when you overclock the RAM carefully compare the secondary and tertiary timings between the overclocked and standard values.
> 
> From my experience the tRDRD value when overclocking was being set to a value of 8 and it was giving me 50% less on write speed when benchmarking. I changed the tRDRD value to 4 (the stock value was 4) and the write speeds immediately matched the read and copy speeds.
> 
> Some background on the settings logic from ASUS:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Third Timings
> 
> On modern architectures like Haswell, page access is optimized such that back to back read timings in the third timing section can have a bigger impact on performance than primary settings. Memory interleaving and addressing optimization leads to the possibility of lots back to back read and writes (page hits) rather than random access (page misses).
> 
> In layman terms, the best way to describe this is to use the analogy of a hard drive. If data is fragmented, the head needs to move back and forth over the platter reading small bits of data. Similarly on memory, this would mean that CAS, wCL, tRCD, tRP and tRAS would factor more often - opening and closing memory pages across the DIMMs to read or write parts of data.
> 
> If data is not fragmented, the head can seek an area of the disc and read the data without needed to move back and forth. On a crude level, memory interleaving works in a similar way, ensuring that data is arranged into rows across ICs so that pages don't have to be open and closed as often to access it - this saves on excessive primary timing command requirements. That's why some of the back to back read and write timings in the third timing section of UEFI have a bigger impact on performance than the primary timings which were more important on older platforms.
> 
> If the required data is in sequence, CAS can be performed to access it and subsequent requests can be spaced by tRDRD (as low as 4 clocks). A lot of these requests can be sent before a page close request is required - which relies on the primary timing set (tRAS then tRP (tRC must elapse) followed by tRCD and then CAS). That's why the third timing spacing has more impact in memory sensitive benchmarks (memory frequency and other factors aside).
> 
> *tRDRD:* Sets the delay between consecutive read requests to the same page. From a performance perspective, this setting is best kept at 4 clocks. Relax only if the memory is not stable or the system will not POST. Very few memory modules can handle a setting of 4 clocks at speeds above DDR3-2400 so you may need to relax accordingly, although the performance hit may negate any gains in frequency.


you guys want me to do this with the 32 or with the 64? I wouldn't mind having the 64 on 2133.

also was messing more last night and got 2333 stable w/ 32gb by bumping dram voltage to 1.67

Also I can't find tRDRD in my settings for timings. Any chance that's a typo? Google isn't bringing up much either.

UPDATE

ok made the desired changes and here's the current shots of the Mobo, What the crap now windows loads w/ 2400... time to run aida..

While I do that here's the current settings.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


















Ok so Read speeds were about 63343 , write was about 42455, when it got to copy it choked a bit then rebooted ( BSOD'd)

Bumping VSSCA to 1.05 if that works I'll drop it to 1 and retest.

Ok set to 1.05 but windows rebooted before getting in now. Interesting.

0.95 boots into windows but this time BSOD stays when it gets to the COPY test in Aida64

SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION

msrpc.sys

gonna google this one(obviously due to the memory but curious anyways). Write speeds are still horrible, yet if I back down to 2133 or 2333 they're almost identical?

Update

Following the VTT : VSSCA ratio guide by cad

I'm now @ 1.1v for VTT
and 1v for VSSCA

Aida now completes successfully. Running it a few more times to make sure it wasn't a fluke.

Write speeds however are bad. 63 on copy and read but 43 on write. Still looking for this setting mentioned.

After this should I attempt w/ 64gb? Except @ 2133? Since I'm sure 2400 would be quite a load for my chip, and uneeded? Would be nice to make use of them.

None the less this is definitely progress!! and a good learning experience.


----------



## Raghar

Is there any reason why would increase of T_CCD_WR to 1 change write speed to equal read speed?
Also why would relaxing T_CWL freeze PC?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Since people are posting some aida64 memory pics with the R4BE, here's mine:


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I'd be happy to see a R15 run.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can boot 5ghz.


Not a rIVBE (I'd like one but monies...), but a 5ghz r15 run with meh memory. The x79 gd45+ with 4960x really doesn't like mixed memory kits which is what I usually use for quad channel so had to use a kit I wouldn't normally bench anything with.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> The cpuz I linked was 5.1 it was somewhat stable but needed more voltage than I liked for 24/7, it can boot at 5.2 & 5.3 but the volts it needs aren't close to safe for water even in winter. I think I got a good chip, not golden exactly but still good and if it does eventuallybsod for me at 5.0 you guys would be the first to know


I had to feed mine 1.5v for it to handle the Aida64 Stability Test at 5.0GHz. I didn't really know what i was doing in BIOS though and probly didn't optimize everything else correctly. I didn't even bother trying Prime cuz it wuz acting a little sluggish during the Aida Test, temps were fine though.

I kinda got sidetracked from testing my cpu because of this damn Elpida Memory in my 290x. I've been doing everything i can lately to try to get rid of all these random black screens. Such a frustrating thing to deal with!!!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Is there any reason why would increase of T_CCD_WR to 1 change write speed to equal read speed?
> Also why would relaxing T_CWL freeze PC?


Think of memory timings like reading the page of a book. Timings control the eye...

CAS = focus eye on first part of page.

tWCL = re-focus eye on different part.

(this is literally what's going on, CAS = COLUMN ACTIVE STROBE, or primary call for data) tWCL = time WRITE CAS LATENCY.

if tWCL takes to long, the page has been turned, giving instability since the required data wasn't written in time before the page turned.

All timings are similar...you got time on a line, time on a row, refresh a page, etc, etc, etc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> For TwCL did you mean tRRD?


No, I meant tWCL. It's at the bottom of secondary timings, set to "9" by your screenshots.

Which also shows that you didn't follow ALL the directions...you did not set secondary timings manually to match what the ram shows in the SPD tool in BIOS...nothing should be left on auto in primary and secondary timings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Update
> 
> Following the VTT : VSSCA ratio guide by cad
> 
> I'm now @ 1.1v for VTT
> and 1v for VSSCA
> 
> Aida now completes successfully. Running it a few more times to make sure it wasn't a fluke.
> 
> Write speeds however are bad. 63 on copy and read but 43 on write. Still looking for this setting mentioned.
> 
> After this should I attempt w/ 64gb? Except @ 2133? Since I'm sure 2400 would be quite a load for my chip, and uneeded? Would be nice to make use of them.
> 
> None the less this is definitely progress!! and a good learning experience.


I'm glad you got to see too much VCCSA causing issues. There's still more that can be done, but anyway, I'd just wait for the RMA kit and get the 64 GB kit in before going to hardcore here.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> Not a rIVBE (I'd like one but monies...), but a 5ghz r15 run with meh memory. The x79 gd45+ with 4960x really doesn't like mixed memory kits which is what I usually use for quad channel so had to use a kit I wouldn't normally bench anything with.


The 4960X's definately seem to like 5ghz better than 4930K's. A lot of talk about 4930K at 5 ghz, but so far only







of one on R15 thread and one over in the Ivy-E thread. I'm sure they are others out there and would love to see some. Lowest bench stable I've seen with 5ghz is 1.472v

- courtesy of centvalny - best of 25 chips


----------



## axiumone

So whats the general consensus for this board? Is it better than the rampage iv extreme? Worth it to switch from an asrock x79 extreme11?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Think of memory timings like reading the page of a book. Timings control the eye...
> 
> CAS = focus eye on first part of page.
> 
> tWCL = re-focus eye on different part.
> 
> (this is literally what's going on, CAS = COLUMN ACTIVE STROBE, or primary call for data) tWCL = time WRITE CAS LATENCY.
> 
> if tWCL takes to long, the page has been turned, giving instability since the required data wasn't written in time before the page turned.
> 
> All timings are similar...you got time on a line, time on a row, refresh a page, etc, etc, etc
> No, I meant tWCL. It's at the bottom of secondary timings, set to "9" by your screenshots.
> 
> Which also shows that you didn't follow ALL the directions...you did not set secondary timings manually to match what the ram shows in the SPD tool in BIOS...nothing should be left on auto in primary and secondary timings.
> I'm glad you got to see too much VCCSA causing issues. There's still more that can be done, but anyway, I'd just wait for the RMA kit and get the 64 GB kit in before going to hardcore here.


Good read,

as for my slow write speeds what can I do to bump that? The other person mentioned a setting I"m not seeing as well.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Good read,
> 
> as for my slow write speeds what can I do to bump that? The other person mentioned a setting I"m not seeing as well.


It's on the third timing set, as is TWRSR, which is also a critical timing, as is TCCD.

But I must digress...this is where things start to get REALLY complicated (or, to be honest, beyond the point I feel I can explain things well).

When you're at the point where these timings and such become relevant (and I don't think they should be, for you),, you really have to start thinking not just about the memory, but about the entire system, and how it acts under stress. In order to truly push things, you've got to know, pretty much automatically, why a chip is failing, and what you should do to fix that.

Like, you related some troubles you've had, I consider what happened when I ran into similar, give some suggestions, you try, and the results kind of speak for themselves. This sort of info isn't "out there in the wild"...no documented...because most users shouldn't have to go down these roads, really. Benchmarkers, guys trying to break records, and those tuning BIOSes for board makers...yeah, this is day-to-day, for some...but not all.

And you know what most of those would do in this situation....?

Swap chips.

I think you need to push higher vCPU, but temps are a problem, really. I feel like you got a 4.4-4.3 GHz chip, that barely does 2133 MHz with 32 GB. I have a few myself. I'd also be looking at power supply...I know that may not make sense, but it is what it is, to me.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's on the third timing set, as is TWRSR, which is also a critical timing, as is TCCD.
> 
> But I must digress...this is where things start to get REALLY complicated (or, to be honest, beyond the point I feel I can explain things well).
> 
> When you're at the point where these timings and such become relevant (and I don't think they should be, for you),, you really have to start thinking not just about the memory, but about the entire system, and how it acts under stress. In order to truly push things, you've got to know, pretty much automatically, why a chip is failing, and what you should do to fix that.
> 
> Like, you related some troubles you've had, I consider what happened when I ran into similar, give some suggestions, you try, and the results kind of speak for themselves. This sort of info isn't "out there in the wild"...no documented...because most users shouldn't have to go down these roads, really. Benchmarkers, guys trying to break records, and those tuning BIOSes for board makers...yeah, this is day-to-day, for some...but not all.
> 
> And you know what most of those would do in this situation....?
> 
> Swap chips.
> 
> I think you need to push higher vCPU, but temps are a problem, really. I feel like you got a 4.4-4.3 GHz chip, that barely does 2133 MHz with 32 GB. I have a few myself. I'd also be looking at power supply...I know that may not make sense, but it is what it is, to me.


Ah I mean I can hit 4.5 @ 1.235 lowest I believe and keep it stable through most tests, just I bumped it to 1.25 for the RAM but vCore would also affect its ability to distribute voltage to the rest correct? I can bump it to 1.275 and see if that helps.

As for PSU's I have 2 atm , AX1200i for GPU's only, and AX860 for Motherboard/everything else.

If you think its the chip I could always try for the intel RMA, dunno how that works though if they ship one to you and you return the bad one or if you have to ship to them first before they determine?


----------



## cadaveca

Well, you know, I wanna say the mis-matched PSUs might be an issue. I also want to think about so many VGAs..the power...yeah, you need dual PSUs...but does the board like it?

Corsair PSUs...yuck. Not that I don't like Corsair....just those PSUs make me feel weird. I have the Seasonic version of the 860...couldn't even run Firestrike Extreme with two 780 Ti and CPU at stock. That means that probably 500 isn't enough for CPU and a single VGA.

See, for me, I'd be dropping to a single VGA, single PSU, single ram kit...and starting there. Getting a good OC, and then adding second GPU. Probably gonna need more voltage for second VGA, plus there's more heat from extra PCIe enabling...

I'd have to push it like that, play with settings, make it fail, then push higher...

You're filling all ram, all PCIe....that's a $15k build. That is going to need a killer CPU to clock well, and a whole bunch of time on set-up for OC.

Intel Tuning Plan RMA...is no questions asked, just send in chip, they send new one, takes about a week. But, you need to have had tuning plan active for 30 days, first. Normal RMA, same turn around, same basic routine, but if you mention OC...RMA denied (which means you're wasting your time, no problem with Tuning Plan, but it's different department and normal RMA cannot help you or transfer your case).

Not that's exactly how it is, but that perspective should make the approach easier.









All that said.. what I consider stable, and what you consider stable...are probably very different. I am probably the biggest snob about this stability thing... and it's why although I know a lot, and could do competitive OC, I have no interest. I prefer hardcore stability than hardcore benching as I feel it's more of a challenge, and therefore, more rewarding.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Well, you know, I wanna say the mis-matched PSUs might be an issue. I also want to think about so many VGAs..the power...yeah, you need dual PSUs...but does the board like it?
> 
> Corsair PSUs...yuck. Not that I don't like Corsair....just those PSUs make me feel weird. I have the Seasonic version of the 860...couldn't even run Firestrike Extreme with two 780 Ti and CPU at stock. That means that probably 500 isn't enough for CPU and a single VGA.
> 
> See, for me, I'd be dropping to a single VGA, single PSU, single ram kit...and starting there. Getting a good OC, and then adding second GPU. Probably gonna need more voltage for second VGA, plus there's more heat from extra PCIe enabling...
> 
> I'd have to push it like that, play with settings, make it fail, then push higher...
> 
> You're filling all ram, all PCIe....that's a $15k build. That is going to need a killer CPU to clock well, and a whole bunch of time on set-up for OC.
> 
> Intel Tuning Plan RMA...is no questions asked, just send in chip, they send new one, takes about a week. But, you need to have had tuning plan active for 30 days, first. Normal RMA, same turn around, same basic routine, but if you mention OC...RMA denied (which means you're wasting your time, no problem with Tuning Plan, but it's different department and normal RMA cannot help you or transfer your case).
> 
> Not that's exactly how it is, but that perspective should make the approach easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that said.. what I consider stable, and what you consider stable...are probably very different. I am probably the biggest snob about this stability thing... and it's why although I know a lot, and could do competitive OC, I have no interest. I prefer hardcore stability than hardcore benching as I feel it's more of a challenge, and therefore, more rewarding.


I've no interest in benching though. As for the PSU's I"m not fully understanding what you mean. I'm using Add2Psu for the moment ( The 2nd was recently added to take ALL the GPU's away from the main PSU ) so when the first one comes on it starts the 2nd which turns on the GPU's , everything else is on the main which from the reports only pulls around 230 @ max for now. For the 1200 though I"m not sure but I just wanted the GPU's away from the system so I didn't bring anything down when pushing them for stable FPS in games.

It's gonna suck if its the chip honestly.but if I end up RMA'ing that I might as well RMA the asus board too since I can only get 16x8x8 due to 2 pins missing in the 3rd GPU slot coming out when I removed the GPU's last time.

Also forgot about the 30 days and keep forgetting to jump on that plan lol.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> everything else is on the main which from the reports only pulls around 230 @ max for now.


CPU + 75 watts per PCIe slot is gonna be slightly more than 230 W. Maybe CPU only on OC. + x79 chipset, the USB 3 controllers, the audio, the whatever, the thingabob, the fans, the coolering, blah blah blah.









Increasing CPU speed increase GPU power consumption, too. Add in OC, and another 100W per card is gonna push that 1200W pretty easy with 3 GPUs.

From my perspective, you're PSU-limited.


----------



## centvalny

With all ram slots populated, IMC will be strained to the max even with ES chip that already tested to 4000+ 4X4GB on LN2

4.5G @ 1.195V h2o on 166 strap with binned samsung, max IMC probably @ 2666 8X4GB with 2V+ high vdimm

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/r6j5.jpg/

With 4X4GB, this system can easily stable @ 3000+

Any 4930K/4960X that can do stable 4.5G @ <1.235V air/h2o is a keeper!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> It's gonna suck if its the chip honestly.but if I end up RMA'ing that I might as well RMA the asus board too since I can only get 16x8x8 due to 2 pins missing in the 3rd GPU slot coming out when I removed the GPU's last time.


that is enough for me to rma right there ! that would drive me nutz !


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> CPU + 75 watts per PCIe slot is gonna be slightly more than 230 W. Maybe CPU only on OC. + x79 chipset, the USB 3 controllers, the audio, the whatever, the thingabob, the fans, the coolering, blah blah blah.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Increasing CPU speed increase GPU power consumption, too. Add in OC, and another 100W per card is gonna push that 1200W pretty easy with 3 GPUs.
> 
> From my perspective, you're PSU-limited.


I'm still not following lol I have 1200W dedicated to JUST GPU

860W dedicated to everything else lol, so when the GPU's pull Watts they don't grab from the board PSU lol.

If I was PSU limited wouldn't I get shutdowns? I did when I tried to heavily OC my titans when everything was just on the 1200, I don't go as high now but everythings on separate so I should be good PSU wise I'd think.

Only 4x8gb sticks atm remember that too.

If 2060W total isn't enough for this board which I doubt I can even pull from the wall then I doubt anyone within the US could then do this.. and there are heavier rigs out there w/ 1600W PSU's only doing more than what I'd ever hope to accomplish sadly.

Gahh all I want is stability but something above 1333...


----------



## Mega Man

i have 2500w in my system maybe you should too ! everyone needs 2500w !


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah I mean I can hit 4.5 @ 1.235 lowest I believe and keep it stable through most tests, just I bumped it to 1.25 for the RAM but vCore would also affect its ability to distribute voltage to the rest correct? I can bump it to 1.275 and see if that helps.
> 
> As for PSU's I have 2 atm , AX1200i for GPU's only, and AX860 for Motherboard/everything else.
> 
> If you think its the chip I could always try for the intel RMA, dunno how that works though if they ship one to you and you return the bad one or if you have to ship to them first before they determine?


Did you end up getting Add2PSU? Or are you just winging it and hoping nothing dies?

All this ram talk + seeing TOOSHORT running 5.3 on his 3970x makes me want to get back to tuning.


----------



## Mega Man

why dont ppl just use a 12vcoil relay ? that is what my final builds will use

wire a molex 12v and ground to coil and power on and ground to common / normally open contacts !

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR5.TRC1.A0.H0.X12vdc+re&_nkw=12vdc+relay&_sacat=0&_from=R40

radioshack sells them as well


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why dont ppl just use a 12vcoil relay ? that is what my final builds will use
> 
> wire a molex 12v and ground to coil and power on and ground to common / normally open contacts !
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR5.TRC1.A0.H0.X12vdc+re&_nkw=12vdc+relay&_sacat=0&_from=R40
> 
> radioshack sells them as well


I'm pretty sure something similar is used on the ADD2PSU.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm still not following lol I have 1200W dedicated to JUST GPU
> 
> 860W dedicated to everything else lol, so when the GPU's pull Watts they don't grab from the board PSU lol.
> 
> If I was PSU limited wouldn't I get shutdowns? I did when I tried to heavily OC my titans when everything was just on the 1200, I don't go as high now but everythings on separate so I should be good PSU wise I'd think.
> 
> Only 4x8gb sticks atm remember that too.
> 
> If 2060W total isn't enough for this board which I doubt I can even pull from the wall then I doubt anyone within the US could then do this.. and there are heavier rigs out there w/ 1600W PSU's only doing more than what I'd ever hope to accomplish sadly.
> 
> Gahh all I want is stability but something above 1333...


Take what I said in consideration with what centvalny posted. 4.5 [email protected] V should be a keeper.

So...what's going on?

Man, I dunno, RMA the ram kits, then we'll talk. You shouldn't have these problems.

You can't get one kit to 2400, and you should be able.

My "good" chip is worse than yours, I don't need any of this fuss to get 32 GB @ 2400 MHz. I'm pretty sure I posted screenshots with my settings here somewhere, and if not, I can set it up again pretty easily. On my poop chips...yeah, they need the VTT, the VCCSA...not my good chip. Just a touch over stock is all.

Now, in the grand scheme of things...

Three cards, full OC, 1200W isn't enough!

stock, 265W, x3 = 795W.

+ 100W per card on OC(if not more, you can figure it out by seeing TDP limit each card hits.)

=

1095W. You gonna run that PSU @ 90+% gaming? Good luck.

Secondly, either you got dual digital PSUs, or one Digital, one analogue? I dunno, man, I dunno.


----------



## skupples

Oh yeah, it's pretty easy to shut down a 1200-1300W PSU with 3x bios modded, volt modded titans. They can easily hit 400W each. I run an EVGA G2 1300W just for my cards, bridged with add2psu.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Oh yeah, it's pretty easy to shut down a 1200-1300W PSU with 3x bios modded, volt modded titans. They can easily hit 400W each. I run an EVGA G2 1300W just for my cards, bridged with add2psu.


Dude...

My ti's pull near 300W at stock.

STOCK.

Reference, BTW.

And...I don't think all retail reference are like reviewer reference, power consumption-wise, and I bought my cards retail.

BTW, MOLEX on board for PCIe is there because.....24-pin powers PCIe.

Average card pulls ~75 W via PCIe. Hook a clamp meter or something on the VGA 8-pins, pretty basic check.

MAXIMUS V EXTREME has special PCIe VRM for VGA OC, just because of this, and had adjustable 3.3V line.


----------



## skupples

GK110 is quite the beast once they are unleashed. FTW420 posted a screenshot of his zombie pulling close to 1,000W...









My 1300w shuts off ~1300mhz ~1.35v


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Did you end up getting Add2PSU? Or are you just winging it and hoping nothing dies?
> 
> All this ram talk + seeing TOOSHORT running 5.3 on his 3970x makes me want to get back to tuning.


Yeah I'm using Add2PSU, the 860 is the primary now and starts the 1200 for the GPU's

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Take what I said in consideration with what centvalny posted. 4.5 [email protected] V should be a keeper.
> 
> So...what's going on?
> 
> Man, I dunno, RMA the ram kits, then we'll talk. You shouldn't have these problems.
> 
> You can't get one kit to 2400, and you should be able.
> 
> My "good" chip is worse than yours, I don't need any of this fuss to get 32 GB @ 2400 MHz. I'm pretty sure I posted screenshots with my settings here somewhere, and if not, I can set it up again pretty easily. On my poop chips...yeah, they need the VTT, the VCCSA...not my good chip. Just a touch over stock is all.
> 
> Now, in the grand scheme of things...
> 
> Three cards, full OC, 1200W isn't enough!
> 
> stock, 265W, x3 = 795W.
> 
> + 100W per card on OC(if not more, you can figure it out by seeing TDP limit each card hits.)
> 
> =
> 
> 1095W. You gonna run that PSU @ 90+% gaming? Good luck.
> 
> Secondly, either you got dual digital PSUs, or one Digital, one analogue? I dunno, man, I dunno.


Yeah via the monitor the most I've used so far is around 700-900 but that's at high OC's I don't really keep the cards @ a super high OC let alone a high one for long grinding sessions, I do like to see what they're capable of though, and the games I play probably have yet to take advantage of them.

I'm not putting 300% power draw either, Mines around 150% for the most part and I doubt it gets pushed enough to require to get there half the time.

I'm waiting on the Corsair AX1500 titanium @ that point I'll put the GPU's on them but for now the only PSU shut downs I've had was when everything was on 1 PSU and I was testing the voltage hack. I don't do the LLC so I can't go above 1.3 though @ 1212 I was able to shut them down.

Haven't had an issue since I added the 2nd. Just sucks its gonna be a while before Corsair releases the new one. eVGA will probably hold off until they do as well.

I'll go ahead and RMA the kits.

I can however run XMP @ 2400 just fine @ stock settings (i.e optimized defaults) if I leave the CPU alone @ auto which it takes its 3.6 - 4.0 route.

It's after that jump to 4.5 that nothing stabilizes. I can get below 1.25v fine on stable settings for the vcore w/ 64gb @ 1333, heck at one point I HAD stable 2133 on 64gb, I just don't remmeber the settings I had at the time, and using what I know now may have fixed things a bit better, but regardless I just want to get a working kit, that dip in the write bothers me and oddly enough after giving up and going in game ANYTHING I do seems to choke up the system, like moving around or shifting the view, its like there's jerks and crap of like 17-21fps then STRAIGHT back up to 90-110 if I stop moving. I swapped back to 1333mhz and it stopped jerking so bad. So something's obviously up.


----------



## centvalny

We use 4X AX1200s to bench Quad zombified Titan and rivbe @ the asus/corsair/intel idf event



http://imgur.com/wnFQ2yr





http://imgur.com/ThDmS8m


----------



## Arm3nian

Teach me cable management!


----------



## LunaP

Lol what the heck is all that blue crap everywhere lol? Did something asplode?


----------



## Mega Man

moisture prevention


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I'm using Add2PSU, the 860 is the primary now and starts the 1200 for the GPU's
> Yeah via the monitor the most I've used so far is around 700-900 but that's at high OC's I don't really keep the cards @ a super high OC let alone a high one for long grinding sessions, I do like to see what they're capable of though, and the games I play probably have yet to take advantage of them.
> 
> I'm not putting 300% power draw either, Mines around 150% for the most part and I doubt it gets pushed enough to require to get there half the time.
> 
> I'm waiting on the Corsair AX1500 titanium @ that point I'll put the GPU's on them but for now the only PSU shut downs I've had was when everything was on 1 PSU and I was testing the voltage hack. I don't do the LLC so I can't go above 1.3 though @ 1212 I was able to shut them down.
> 
> Haven't had an issue since I added the 2nd. Just sucks its gonna be a while before Corsair releases the new one. eVGA will probably hold off until they do as well.
> 
> I'll go ahead and RMA the kits.
> 
> I can however run XMP @ 2400 just fine @ stock settings (i.e optimized defaults) if I leave the CPU alone @ auto which it takes its 3.6 - 4.0 route.
> 
> It's after that jump to 4.5 that nothing stabilizes. I can get below 1.25v fine on stable settings for the vcore w/ 64gb @ 1333, heck at one point I HAD stable 2133 on 64gb, I just don't remmeber the settings I had at the time, and using what I know now may have fixed things a bit better, but regardless I just want to get a working kit, that dip in the write bothers me and oddly enough after giving up and going in game ANYTHING I do seems to choke up the system, like moving around or shifting the view, its like there's jerks and crap of like 17-21fps then STRAIGHT back up to 90-110 if I stop moving. I swapped back to 1333mhz and it stopped jerking so bad. So something's obviously up.


You can go over 1.3v you just have to use Zawarudo's tool.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I'm using Add2PSU, the 860 is the primary now and starts the 1200 for the GPU's
> Yeah via the monitor the most I've used so far is around 700-900 but that's at high OC's I don't really keep the cards @ a super high OC let alone a high one for long grinding sessions, I do like to see what they're capable of though, and the games I play probably have yet to take advantage of them.
> 
> I'm not putting 300% power draw either, Mines around 150% for the most part and I doubt it gets pushed enough to require to get there half the time.
> 
> I'm waiting on the Corsair AX1500 titanium @ that point I'll put the GPU's on them but for now the only PSU shut downs I've had was when everything was on 1 PSU and I was testing the voltage hack. I don't do the LLC so I can't go above 1.3 though @ 1212 I was able to shut them down.
> 
> Haven't had an issue since I added the 2nd. Just sucks its gonna be a while before Corsair releases the new one. eVGA will probably hold off until they do as well.
> 
> I'll go ahead and RMA the kits.
> 
> I can however run XMP @ 2400 just fine @ stock settings (i.e optimized defaults) if I leave the CPU alone @ auto which it takes its 3.6 - 4.0 route.
> 
> It's after that jump to 4.5 that nothing stabilizes. I can get below 1.25v fine on stable settings for the vcore w/ 64gb @ 1333, heck at one point I HAD stable 2133 on 64gb, I just don't remmeber the settings I had at the time, and using what I know now may have fixed things a bit better, but regardless I just want to get a working kit, that dip in the write bothers me and oddly enough after giving up and going in game ANYTHING I do seems to choke up the system, like moving around or shifting the view, its like there's jerks and crap of like 17-21fps then STRAIGHT back up to 90-110 if I stop moving. I swapped back to 1333mhz and it stopped jerking so bad. So something's obviously up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can go over 1.3v you just have to use Zawarudo's tool.
Click to expand...

btw on the add2psu that black rectangle is the relay, that costs $2


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Owner here as well!

Have a few pics of my rig over here at this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1467404/new-complete-5k-setup-need-help

Got past the water cooling issues and now want to know if its possible to control the OC panel anywhere. I want it to display Fahrenheit instead of Celsius. And is their some sort of menu guide to the OC panel? Please advise.


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> Got past the water cooling issues and now want to know if its possible to control the OC panel anywhere. I want it to display Fahrenheit instead of Celsius. And is their some sort of menu guide to the OC panel? Please advise.


Here http://www.mediafire.com/download/j7ilmgwrliu58ku/r4be.docx


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Is there any reason why would increase of T_CCD_WR to 1 change write speed to equal read speed?
> Also why would relaxing T_CWL freeze PC?


You should keep T_ccd and T_ccd_wr = 0 for best performance.
Where did you read one needs to increase T_CCD_WR to 1 in order to make write speed equal read speed?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> We use 4X AX1200s to bench Quad zombified Titan and rivbe @ the asus/corsair/intel idf event
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/wnFQ2yr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ThDmS8m


Oh man, look, what a mess!


----------



## Raghar

My write speeds slows down to read speed when I increase CCD_WR to 2, otherwise my write speed is FAR better. Normally these tertiary timings have negligible performance penalties, so I thought it was bit weird.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> My write speeds slows down to read speed when I increase CCD_WR to 2, otherwise my write speed is FAR better. Normally these tertiary timings have negligible performance penalties, so I thought it was bit weird.


I still wonder maybe aida64 bandwidth test itself has bugs. As you said "Normally these tertiary timings have negligible performance penalties".
You can run some tests that are sensitive to memory bandwidth such as winrar bench. You can easily tell the performance impact of t_ccd and t_ccd_wr.


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah I'm using Add2PSU, the 860 is the primary now and starts the 1200 for the GPU's
> Yeah via the monitor the most I've used so far is around 700-900 but that's at high OC's I don't really keep the cards @ a super high OC let alone a high one for long grinding sessions, I do like to see what they're capable of though, and the games I play probably have yet to take advantage of them.
> 
> I'm not putting 300% power draw either, Mines around 150% for the most part and I doubt it gets pushed enough to require to get there half the time.
> 
> I'm waiting on the Corsair AX1500 titanium @ that point I'll put the GPU's on them but for now the only PSU shut downs I've had was when everything was on 1 PSU and I was testing the voltage hack. I don't do the LLC so I can't go above 1.3 though @ 1212 I was able to shut them down.
> 
> Haven't had an issue since I added the 2nd. Just sucks its gonna be a while before Corsair releases the new one. eVGA will probably hold off until they do as well.
> 
> I'll go ahead and RMA the kits.
> 
> I can however run XMP @ 2400 just fine @ stock settings (i.e optimized defaults) if I leave the CPU alone @ auto which it takes its 3.6 - 4.0 route.
> 
> It's after that jump to 4.5 that nothing stabilizes. I can get below 1.25v fine on stable settings for the vcore w/ 64gb @ 1333, heck at one point I HAD stable 2133 on 64gb, I just don't remmeber the settings I had at the time, and using what I know now may have fixed things a bit better, but regardless I just want to get a working kit, that dip in the write bothers me and oddly enough after giving up and going in game ANYTHING I do seems to choke up the system, like moving around or shifting the view, its like there's jerks and crap of like 17-21fps then STRAIGHT back up to 90-110 if I stop moving. I swapped back to 1333mhz and it stopped jerking so bad. So something's obviously up.


Perhaps it's just your CPU that is limited. Running 8 x 8GB sticks at 2400MHz is pushing it even with the best of CPUs.

1866MHz or 2133MHz should give you very similar performance compared to 2400MHz which usually requires more relaxed timings.

I think 4.5GHz CPU with 1866MHz RAM is more desirable over 4.0GHz CPU with 2400MHz RAM.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iatacs19*
> 
> Perhaps it's just your CPU that is limited. Running 8 x 8GB sticks at 2400MHz is pushing it even with the best of CPUs.
> 
> 1866MHz or 2133MHz should give you very similar performance compared to 2400MHz which usually requires more relaxed timings.
> 
> I think 4.5GHz CPU with 1866MHz RAM is more desirable over 4.0GHz CPU with 2400MHz RAM.


we're talking about 4x8gb though lol not 8x8gb

For the 64gb kit I'm getting I plan to run it only @ 2133.


----------



## stilllogicz

Is there an EK FC Terminal that would work for 3 way SLI on this board?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Is there an EK FC Terminal that would work for 3 way SLI on this board?


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18974/ex-blc-1422/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19436/ex-blc-1434/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Serial_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Serial.html?tl=g57c645s2060

it's the same one you want, even if using just 2x cards, you just have to get the blank.


----------



## stilllogicz

Thanks +rep. I thought the spacing was different, one less thing to worry about.


----------



## Ajay57

Whats the purpose of the PLL TERMINATION VOLTAGE ON THIS MOBO and why do you set that @ 1.45v ???? Would it be better to set it the same as the Vcore???

Answers please as i am also trying to learn more about this Black Edition board!!

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> PLL Termination...PLL is source voltage for the chip. It is not a consistent voltage, and it is "terminated" @ 1.45 V to prevent overshoot. enabling this option allows us to change the range where PLL is "terminated", but that's more useful for cold, not for air. air voltage ranges are 1.4-1.475 or so, while when cold, you'll need 1.5-1.55 or so. So when you enable PLL Overvoltage option, you under stand it allows overshoot past 1.45V, termination adjusts that range.
> 
> Unless benching under LN2, it's not that useful to enable or adjust, but some chips might like different settings here. I have both good and bad chips, doesn't make any difference for me that is really noticeable, but I already run 1.45V PLL most commonly, so overshoot isn't much of an issue anyway.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Whats the purpose of the PLL TERMINATION VOLTAGE ON THIS MOBO and why do you set that @ 1.45v ???? Would it be better to set it the same as the Vcore???
> 
> Answers please as i am also trying to learn more about this Black Edition board!!
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


----------



## axiumone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Is there an EK FC Terminal that would work for 3 way SLI on this board?


The slot spacing is standard. Just a regular triple serial or parallel EK terminal will work.


----------



## Ajay57

Thanks MRTOOSHORT, being a overclocker and competing on the HWbot, i want to learn as much as possible about this new Mobo!! So as to get the maximum

out of it, i am running a 4960X @ the moment with 2 x 780 TI's in SLI. With my Ram OCed to 2400Mhz, just been tweaking and setting this thing up over the last few weeks.

So i joined this thread in hope of picking up some tips, to help me improve my set up here!!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Is there an EK FC Terminal that would work for 3 way SLI on this board?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18974/ex-blc-1422/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19436/ex-blc-1434/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Serial_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Serial.html?tl=g57c645s2060
> 
> it's the same one you want, even if using just 2x cards, you just have to get the blank.
Click to expand...

with the amount of times this has been asked should it just be added to the op ?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks MRTOOSHORT, being a overclocker and competing on the HWbot, i want to learn as much as possible about this new Mobo!! So as to get the maximum
> 
> out of it, i am running a 4960X @ the moment with 2 x 780 TI's in SLI. With my Ram OCed to 2400Mhz, just been tweaking and setting this thing up over the last few weeks.
> 
> So i joined this thread in hope of picking up some tips, to help me improve my set up here!!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Compliments on yr avatar, the AJS 7R - peak technology in it's day.









(Yep, the test bench looks good too.







)


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Is there an EK FC Terminal that would work for 3 way SLI on this board?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18974/ex-blc-1422/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Parallel.html?tl=g57c645s2060
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19436/ex-blc-1434/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Serial_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Serial.html?tl=g57c645s2060
> 
> it's the same one you want, even if using just 2x cards, you just have to get the blank.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> with the amount of times this has been asked should it just be added to the op ?
Click to expand...

I am thinking that would be a good idea


----------



## Ajay57

Thanks alancsalt for the kind words, yeah it was my dream machine when i was a youngster, did manage to have a 500cc AJS JAMPOT SINGLE!! I fully restored it by hand myself over the years, yeah makes me smile as it kinda shows my age @ 59 Years young lol!!

As for the Bench set up i kinda grow up over time and i fully built and made it all myself, took some time to research it all and built it over 1 week or so! Ended up running the 4960X with the RAMPAGE BLACK EDITION, hence on here try to pick up some tips. Been playing with the Bios the CPU is fully stable to 4.7 then falls off a cliff by wanting a big jump in Vcore to get to 4.8 etc!!

I was just looking around to see if using the 125 Strap could help me out and maybe lower the voltage on the CPU some what??

So back to you and thanks again and look forward to your reply,

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## Raghar

Ajay57

You should write voltages you are using for 4.7 and 4.8. Also you should write LLC settings.


----------



## alancsalt

I learnt to ride on a 1948 rigid frame Matchless 500cc when I was 14. AMC made both Matchless and AJS by then. Same bike, different badges. Three of us chipped in to buy it off a local farmer for 15 pounds. (Before decimal currency here) We could only ride it along the power pylon trails as we we were underage. I'm a '52 model. (OT nostalgia attack.)

The 125 strap works for most on the RIVE, slightly lower voltage, maybe a bit better stability... I used 129.5 BCLK for this 3970X run: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2834461 Depends on your individual board and chip really.


----------



## Ajay57

My first CPU was a 4930K sorry to say it was a DOG of a chip only OC to 4.6 Mhz, then i managed to find this one and it goes up to 4.7 easy @ about 1.4v. But after that it jumps to 1.510v to get to 4.8 Mhz and with the LLC it goes up to 1.525v, i see that some are running @ 1.6v etc.

I can not go to 4.9 as i have not tried that yet and do not know if it would be possible at this stage.

The purpose of buying this Mobo is in part the Overclocking capability's and use that to gain points on the HWbot.

Kind Regards,

AJ.


----------



## alancsalt

Yeah, well your 4960X will probably get the same results in 3Dmark11 at your peak OC as me at mine, because your cpu does more work per clock cycle. If you were getting the same OC as a Sandy you'd be ahead of them in a number of futuremark benches.

Gotta have at least water for those clocks, and to go faster might need "added cold" of some sort..Temps are OK?

you should add your rig to your sig.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> My first CPU was a 4930K sorry to say it was a DOG of a chip only OC to 4.6 Mhz, then i managed to find this one and it goes up to 4.7 easy @ about 1.4v. But after that it jumps to 1.510v to get to 4.8 Mhz and with the LLC it goes up to 1.525v, i see that some are running @ 1.6v etc.
> 
> I can not go to 4.9 as i have not tried that yet and do not know if it would be possible at this stage.
> 
> The purpose of buying this Mobo is in part the Overclocking capability's and use that to gain points on the HWbot.
> 
> Kind Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Thought you'd run 32M at 4.9ghz on this one Philip?

You can drop LLC down a notch and should get vcore inline with what you set.

Ignore those running 1.6v, if they're doing that on ambient then i hope they've got deep pockets for a new cpu.


----------



## Ajay57

Hi Doug,

Nice to see you around and back with us, yeah just looking at things on here, your right did try that but i have since gone more conservative!! I have run some bench marks, but its up and down with me will try the Strap though and see the results.

I just wanted to learn some more about this Motherboard, and yes i will try to set my SIG later as well. I did Registrar my CPU with Intel and paid for the Overclocking Insurance to protect it!!

So i see your racking up the points there and how did you get on with the KINGPIN??

AJ.


----------



## Doug2507

Good guide for you here&#8230;.

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907

Not put any decent points on the sheet for a while mate, just getting a few things sorted out before i start benching again. RTB, not for me right now.


----------



## Ajay57

Many thanks Doug just keep trying things out, if you do not give it a go, so how can you find out if it will work for you as they say.

AJ.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks MRTOOSHORT, being a overclocker and competing on the HWbot, i want to learn as much as possible about this new Mobo!! So as to get the maximum
> 
> out of it, i am running a 4960X @ the moment with 2 x 780 TI's in SLI. With my Ram OCed to 2400Mhz, just been tweaking and setting this thing up over the last few weeks.
> 
> 
> So i joined this thread in hope of picking up some tips, to help me improve my set up here!!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


I recognize these pics from another forum...








Welcome to the club, and welcome to OCN...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My new chip is running Cinebench runs at 4.8 with 1.36v. I'm definitely keeping and selling my old one.

Twice my PC shut down and rebooted on its own, no blue screen or anything. Has anyone experienced random shut downs?


----------



## Raghar

I seen one today after two weeks of flawless running. By flawless I meant it froze ONLY when I expected it to froze.

I installed AI suite, found it uses extreme settings instead of optimized, and switched to optimized, combined with 300 switching frequency and 100 CPU current capability. Then after two hours of flawless running, and using some prime benchmarks (because I was preparing an article that needed them), I wanted to recheck my results and ran one of the previous settings again. It rebooted instantly, and refused to run prime on the same settings. Changing to standard 140 capability, or higher switching frequency, or moving away from that "asus optimized setting" allowed flawless prime run.

It might be just a weird case of breaking in, but the weird stuff is it happened when I used that "optimized" setting, and I ran it as high performance computing benchmark, and in high performance computing mode the most important thing is efficiency per Watt, thus it was at 39x 1.095V. and CPU should be able to run in this state for 2 years without a glitch.

Some games mainly strategies are also quite nasty on CPU similarly like prime.

CPU never crossed 70 C when it was in case, and never ran without fan when it did any computationally intensive work. I also never used voltage larger than 1.25V. (I tend to do heavy stuff only when I have spare CPU, or know behavior of CPU on low voltage and reasonable overclocks.)


----------



## LunaP

I give up with my chip, up to 1.48v and still can't boot into windows @ 5.0 haven't tried under though. If I increase blck to 125 it doesn't boot, and these half second bootup half second shutsdown x repeat x 20 till I unplug the back is pissing me off at times, you'd figure they'd give it a few seconds to keep from killing other hardware ==;;;


----------



## Raghar

Press power button for 4 seconds (emergency shut down) LunaP, this board does that ONLY when you do something weird, or when RAM is missconfigured.

BTW have you tried to increase current capability from 140 to 170? Just to test if you will still have these problem with RAM speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> My first CPU was a 4930K sorry to say it was a DOG of a chip only OC to 4.6 Mhz, then i managed to find this one and it goes up to 4.7 easy @ about 1.4v. But after that it jumps to 1.510v to get to 4.8 Mhz and with the LLC it goes up to 1.525v,I can not go to 4.9 as i have not tried that yet and do not know if it would be possible at this stage.


That's killing voltage. You should think about going into liquid nitrogen, to get HWbot points. Are you using LLC on regular? If not these voltages are quite a lot for Ivy even under water cooling.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Press power button for 4 seconds (emergency shut down) LunaP, this board does that ONLY when you do something weird, or when RAM is missconfigured.
> 
> BTW have you tried to *increase current capability from 140 to 170?* Just to test if you will still have these problem with RAM speed.


huh?

Also I know you can hold down the power button for 4 seconds derp, I said it does it in half a second = useless, which I have to flip the switch on the back of the PSU.

THe only weird thing I did was leave the same voltage and flip the block up to 125 vs 100 as well as lower RAM speeds down to comply. I'm running RAM @ default to avoid issues (1333) when testing.

what is this 140 to 170 you speaketh of?


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My new chip is running Cinebench runs at 4.8 with 1.36v. I'm definitely keeping and selling my old one.
> 
> Twice my PC shut down and rebooted on its own, no blue screen or anything. Has anyone experienced random shut downs?


Good chip.

Had random shutdowns myself. Traced it to one of the drivers the BE comes with. Can't remember if it was chipset or not. Whichever one it was i omitted it on a clean install and no problems since.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I give up with my chip, up to 1.48v and still can't boot into windows @ 5.0 haven't tried under though. If I increase blck to 125 it doesn't boot, and these half second bootup half second shutsdown x repeat x 20 till I unplug the back is pissing me off at times, you'd figure they'd give it a few seconds to keep from killing other hardware ==;;;


Mine runs at 5.0, but not benchmark stable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Good chip.
> 
> Had random shutdowns myself. Traced it to one of the drivers the BE comes with. Can't remember if it was chipset or not. Whichever one it was i omitted it on a clean install and no problems since.


I might just do another clean install and see if it helps. Thanks for the input.


----------



## Ajay57

Thanks Doug for the LINK just blew away my scores on 3D MARK 11, just tried the settings of our friend in STOKE!!! Works a treat now i am more stable and not dropping so many FPS like before, it was like being on a ROLLERCOASTER!!

1, 

2, 

Got some really nice points to add to my score!!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> what is this 140 to 170 you speaketh of?



Look here at CPU current capability, a slight increase just for few minutes of testing shouldn't hurt. You can also try set VCCSA current to 120, which might help with 64 GB RAM. It also creates more stress however.


----------



## boldenc

VCSSA @ Auto + offset @ Auto , how can I check the real value used? does the board auto set the VCSSA like it does with the vcore if I just change the multiplier?


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Thanks Doug for the LINK just blew away my scores on 3D MARK 11, just tried the settings of our friend in STOKE!!! Works a treat now i am more stable and not dropping so many FPS like before, it was like being on a ROLLERCOASTER!!
> 
> 1,
> 
> 2,
> 
> Got some really nice points to add to my score!!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Lol, 10/10 for effort Philip but you've only gained about .3 globals for each one!!







You only get the difference between last score and new one added!!







(just goes to show an extra bin on gpu and 100mhz on core doesn't make much difference!)


----------



## cadaveca

CPU Current :

140% = 100%.
150% = 110%
160% = 120%
170% = 130%
180% = 140%

130% = 90%
120% = 80%(VRM can now be manually adjusted)
110% = 70%
100% = 60%.

Hence why when that setting is changed from "AUTO", things don't work right. It's a noob-catcher.

Keep in mind, this is ASUS. They sell VGA cards with built-in mod points, then lock the BIOS so you can't use them effectively without flashing the BIOS (MATRIX 7970), or they sell cards that offer no voltage adjustment with mod points(DIRECT CUII 7970).

So, the hardware and options are there, if you know the tricks. If you don't, you're not likely to break anything. And if you do break something, it's clearly your own fault (in ASUS' eyes. Anyone that's gone through RMA understands).









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> huh?
> 
> Also I know you can hold down the power button for 4 seconds derp, I said it does it in half a second = useless, which I have to flip the switch on the back of the PSU.
> 
> THe only weird thing I did was leave the same voltage and flip the block up to 125 vs 100 as well as lower RAM speeds down to comply. I'm running RAM @ default to avoid issues (1333) when testing.
> 
> what is this 140 to 170 you speaketh of?


He's right. Even if it shuts down, you simply hold the button down until it stops the boot loop, or you hold down CMOS Clear on back panel. It can reboot 5 times in that 5 seconds, board doesn't shut down on boot loops for LN2 use, so to stop the loop you hold the power button ON THE BOARD ITSELF.

Power button on OC panel and front panel doesn't work the same, unfortunately.

At times I think bits of LN2 Mode stay on always.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boldenc*
> 
> VCSSA @ Auto + offset @ Auto , how can I check the real value used? does the board auto set the VCSSA like it does with the vcore if I just change the multiplier?


Clear CMOS, boot into BIOS. value given in BIOS monitoring panel is just a bit higher than stock value, since board sets "EXTREME" loadline calibration by default. You can try adjusting loadline values to compensate.

And yeah, AUTO settings adjust VCCSA automatically. It's "AUTO", man!


----------



## Ajay57

I understand that, but for me its a real good step in the right direction, without just looking around in the Dark!!! I can now build on what this has shown me, the only thing i can not find Doug is the

BCLK SKEW on this motherboard, it must be some where else????

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> CPU Current :
> 140% = 100%.
> 
> 130% = 90%
> 120% = 80%(VRM can now be manually adjusted)


That explain things. Do you know the reason why they doesn't allow regular VRM setting on 140? Shouldn't be extreme setting forced from 160 higher?
I touched heatsink and this board seems to love regular setting.
Quote:


> Hence why when that setting is changed from "AUTO", things don't work right. It's a noob-catcher.


Sometimes I think they are using AUTO instead of "use last used number".
Quote:


> Clear CMOS, boot into BIOS. value given in BIOS monitoring panel is just a bit higher than stock value, since board sets "EXTREME" loadline calibration by default.


That's quite scary, on the other hand this board tends to set VCCSA relatively low, which might compensate the extreme setting.

Is there any harm from using VCCSA 0.936 and VTT 1.05? (Defaults on my board.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> BCLK SKEW on this motherboard, it must be some where else????


It's just under "extreme OV". It's in the same tab where you adjust CPU voltages, and BLCK.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Mine runs at 5.0


Lucky you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> CPU Current :
> 
> 140% = 100%.
> 150% = 110%
> 160% = 120%
> 170% = 130%
> 180% = 140%
> 
> 130% = 90%
> 120% = 80%(VRM can now be manually adjusted)
> 110% = 70%
> 100% = 60%.
> 
> Hence why when that setting is changed from "AUTO", things don't work right. It's a noob-catcher.
> 
> Keep in mind, this is ASUS. They sell VGA cards with built-in mod points, then lock the BIOS so you can't use them effectively without flashing the BIOS (MATRIX 7970), or they sell cards that offer no voltage adjustment with mod points(DIRECT CUII 7970).
> 
> So, the hardware and options are there, if you know the tricks. If you don't, you're not likely to break anything. And if you do break something, it's clearly your own fault (in ASUS' eyes. Anyone that's gone through RMA understands).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He's right. Even if it shuts down, you simply hold the button down until it stops the boot loop, or you hold down CMOS Clear on back panel. It can reboot 5 times in that 5 seconds, board doesn't shut down on boot loops for LN2 use, so to stop the loop you hold the power button ON THE BOARD ITSELF.
> 
> Power button on OC panel and front panel doesn't work the same, unfortunately.
> 
> At times I think bits of LN2 Mode stay on always.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clear CMOS, boot into BIOS. value given in BIOS monitoring panel is just a bit higher than stock value, since board sets "EXTREME" loadline calibration by default. You can try adjusting loadline values to compensate.
> 
> And yeah, AUTO settings adjust VCCSA automatically. It's "AUTO", man!


Well I officially blew out my drivers had to go into safe mode and reload. I think I have a crap chip at this point. I went to 1.5v and still couldn't boot @ 4.8ghz

Back to stock everything settings for the meantime. Not sure what to do next.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> That's quite scary, on the other hand this board tends to set VCCSA relatively low, which might compensate the extreme setting.
> 
> Is there any harm from using VCCSA 0.936 and VTT 1.05? (Defaults on my board.)


I really think you don't have RIVBE, so I have no idea what's safe for *your* board.







VCCSA is set according to CPU value, or by user-adjusted settings; it's not low at all.


----------



## LunaP

System seems a bit more stable on stock speeds oddly. As well as more fluid. Game has taken no notice of it either. Very curious if I really just have a weak/bad chip.


----------



## abvolt

It could well be degradation - the issue with running heavy loads on CPUs for hours on end with programs like handbrake, Prime, 3DS Max etc is that when we are overclocked with a voltage increase, we are pulling up to 2X more current through the CPU than it was designed to comfortably handle.


----------



## kzinti1

No sound!
Without reading through over 5,800 posts here, have there been reports of the sound not working on this motherboard?
I installed the Creative package that came on the install disk, uninstalled and reinstalled it, updated it, etc., and have yet to get a peep out of this board.
Everything is plugged in right, the audio panel in Windows shows music is playing.
I've never had a problem with any other build as far as sound goes, it's just this RIVE-BE.
My speakers and headphones work on my other computers.
There just is no joy coming from either the back or front panel of this board.
Any ideas as to where I may have screwed up would be appreciated.
I've never heard of a Black board that won't respond to Rob Zombie or Black Sabbath (welcome back Ozzy! It's been way, WAY too long!).

(FIXED! Went to Realtek and downloaded their latest drivers. Fired right up.)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abvolt*
> 
> It could well be degradation - the issue with running heavy loads on CPUs for hours on end with programs like handbrake, Prime, 3DS Max etc is that when we are overclocked with a voltage increase, we are pulling up to 2X more current through the CPU than it was designed to comfortably handle.


glad I don't run those programs and thats pretty crappy degradation for just a couple weeks of being on 4.5 lol... only a couple hours a day at most.

blah the luck


----------



## Ajay57

Thanks found that but, there is 3 settings in that section and i am not 100% sure which one it is!!!! Can anyone help me out here??

According to 8PACKS OVERCLOCKING GUIDE it helps with stability with the CPU ETC!!

A setting of -1 or -10 or -20 helps overall, that is NEGATIVE VALUES!!!

I used his settings last night and it seems to me my Black Edition works better now than before, the one point he said, was VCCSA is the IMC VOLTS!!

This should be below 1.2 volts and VCCSA and VTT should be no more than 0.05 Volts of each other.

The other point is VTT should be set @ 1.15 volts and the second VTTCPU should be within 0.4 volts of the VTT!!

I tried and tested these out last night and can confirm they work for me and my Black Edition here, it made my Overclock more stable, this is the Guy in UK with loads of WORLD RECORDS!!

1, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907

So i would honestly say he knows a thing or two!

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## ohneklavier13

Display Name: Ohneklavier13


----------



## doctakedooty

So here is the question guys is it worth jumping to the rampage iv black edition from a RIVE? Does it alow slightly better overclocking and I know memory overclocks higher on the Black Edition and would allow me to pick up a set of 2666 Gskill ram over my dominator GT 2133.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So here is the question guys is it worth jumping to the rampage iv black edition from a RIVE? Does it alow slightly better overclocking and I know memory overclocks higher on the Black Edition and would allow me to pick up a set of 2666 Gskill ram over my dominator GT 2133.


If you don't mind paying the price premium for a very light increase in memory speed, then go ahead. If you already have a RIVE, i would say stick with it. R4BE does offer other features, but you can easily get a AC wifi usb dingle and a Killer sound card for less than it would cost you to buy a new board. You can also sell you old hardware, so that you don't put a big dent on your wallet.

You can also buy from a retailer that is flexible with returns. test it and if you don't feel its worth it, you would at least have the option to return it.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> If you don't mind paying the price premium for a very light increase in memory speed, then go ahead. If you already have a RIVE, i would say stick with it. R4BE does offer other features, but you can easily get a AC wifi usb dingle and a Killer sound card for less than it would cost you to buy a new board. You can also sell you old hardware, so that you don't put a big dent on your wallet.
> 
> You can also buy from a retailer that is flexible with returns. test it and if you don't feel its worth it, you would at least have the option to return it.


The only other part I see useful to me is like you said the AC Wifi but other then that nothing amazing to me and the memory overclocks. How much you think my RIVE would go for on here and the EK motherboard waterblock? Also probably a 4930K that does 4.6 ghz?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> The only other part I see useful to me is like you said the AC Wifi but other then that nothing amazing to me and the memory overclocks. How much you think my RIVE would go for on here and the EK motherboard waterblock? Also probably a 4930K that does 4.6 ghz?


I just sold my 4930K for $410 this morning to a fellow member. You might have to split the Board and blocks for a quicker sale, unless you get lucky and a buyer wants both. I would say 300-350 for a used RIVE in perfect shape is a fair deal. Considering open box sell for like 280 on newegg. I would say 50-70 for the blocks. You can also wait for Haswell E, since you already plan on buying new memory, Mobo and CPU.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So here is the question guys is it worth jumping to the rampage iv black edition from a RIVE? Does it alow slightly better overclocking and I know memory overclocks higher on the Black Edition and would allow me to pick up a set of 2666 Gskill ram over my dominator GT 2133.


The rIVe is still good for memory overclocking, it just needs an ivy-e in it to be able to run higher than 2400mhz (most sb-e top out around there).

2666Mhz + memory is fine, I've run 3000mhz + on the rIVe with a 4960x.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So here is the question guys is it worth jumping to the rampage iv black edition from a RIVE? Does it alow slightly better overclocking and I know memory overclocks higher on the Black Edition and would allow me to pick up a set of 2666 Gskill ram over my dominator GT 2133.


1
do you want the ac wifi/bluetooth

2 do you want the look of this board

then decide for yourself

in other news ever since i corrupted windows ( i dont remember how either ironically ) somehow i think i was ocing gpu iirc .... i can not get a good install of windows and i even formatted ... about to do it again ( actually due to the time i may need to do it this weekend )

NVM i am an idiot, i found it i thought something was being corrupted but there is a driver under utilities for asus probeII


----------



## NEOAethyr

Been a while, been kinda busy, I only started messing around with the board again last night and tonight (well it's 3am...).

Here's the screenshots I said I would upload:
http://www.fileswap.com/dl/DH6N5sAang/

Please take a look at them you guys/gals, I put them in a rar because there were to many to bother uploading one at a time with.

Yeah and it was a real pain in the butt to get them ^^.
How to fix without loading at least 2 cmos profiles... (which was my only way previously of fixing the bug)
You have to change the cpu multi and mem divider at the same time.
Just changing either one of them one at a time will not fix the prob.
It does seem that changing the cpu multi by it's self causes it, but I'm not 100% on that (when it comes up it's hard to get rid of, when it's not around it's hard to get it to come up...).
Voltages make no difference at all btw, I checked the heck out of this.

I gave myself a headache trying to figure it out lol.
2hrs and an ib800 + icepack and I'm here posting this







.

I found another bug btw when messing with this.
Loading a cmos profile with a cpu multi that is lower then the multi currently used will cause the board not to post and the cmos has to be reset.
This is similar to the bug that when loading a cmos profile with a lower ram speed (regardless of div) causes the board not to post, cmos reset needed, way around it is to lower the ram div to around the same speed of the ram that will be loaded up by the new cmos profile.
Even if they are using the same exact ram div, the ram has to be around the same speed, if the speed is say 250mhz higher with the current config then it is with the profile well, it will not post.

Another new bug I found.
Changing the ram div causes the cpu multi config to reset if it's currently set to per core config instead of limit all cores.
It's something I came across trying to figure out the write speed bug.

Another bug I came across the other day, down scrolling in the bios causes a glitch in the graphics on the quick note button I think it was, barely noticeable.
The 0507 bios still has the resets it's boot order config bug, which randomly comes up and annoys the living heck out of me.
It also still has the corrupted cdrom/usb stick name and duplicate entry bug that sometimes shows it's ugly head until a restart (shows it's self sometimes in the boot order menu in the bios and when pressing f8).


----------



## Mulle1991

Hey all.
Well i have a big problem?...

I just added my nr 3 graphic card and suddenly gpu2 cant be detected?
I think its the pcie slot because i tried to swap the cards and gpu 2 still wont be detected?

Anybody having this problem before?????

Im sorry this issue is on a msi bigbang xpower 2 motherboard but maybe someone having this issue before would be able to help


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hey all.
> Well i have a big problem?...
> 
> I just added my nr 3 graphic card and suddenly gpu2 cant be detected?
> I think its the pcie slot because i tried to swap the cards and gpu 2 still wont be detected?
> 
> Anybody having this problem before?????
> 
> Im sorry this issue is on a msi bigbang xpower 2 motherboard but maybe someone having this issue before would be able to help


Time to get a R4BE









Ok, in all seriousness does slot 2 work with only two cards? Is the problem only when running 3 cards?

It sounds like slot 2 gets disabled when running 3 cards.

Also check you device manager to make sure you don't have conflicting drivers.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> The only other part I see useful to me is like you said the AC Wifi but other then that nothing amazing to me and the memory overclocks. How much you think my RIVE would go for on here and the EK motherboard waterblock? Also probably a 4930K that does 4.6 ghz?


Personal opinion: no.









I had less problems on RIVE, the RIVBE needs every voltage tuned manually. I don't care much about RAM overclocks, many users have had issues with 8 GB sticks on this board. For me XMP doesn't work with 3 different set of sticks tested. I keep getting immediate shutdowns upon stress testing unless I tune everything by myself. If I keep RAM at 1333, everything works. Could be a bad 4960X chip, but it worked just fine on RIVE and RIVF.

The OC panel is pretty useless and I have not yet taken advantage of WiFi. But there's one thing that keeps me using the RIVBE: the looks. Lol.

I have RIVE, RIVF and two RIVBEs.


----------



## Mulle1991

Allready got a R4BE









And just haf problems with it. Now im just awaiting the motherboard comming home from the dealer again.

Witch driver should i look for in device manager cus the last card is not listed there


----------



## Raghar

What are they saying in the manual about PCI-E slots?


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> What are they saying in the manual about PCI-E slots?


Nothing really :O

Hmm thats a good thing ill recive my brand new R4BE next week from RMA case


----------



## NEOAethyr

You're supposed to use slots 1+3, not 1+2..
Anyways

There's a beta bios out, it's only meant for sandy bridge though (as a fix for them...).
Ver 0601:
http://www.mediafire.com/download/1y0td8uba9y453i/RAMPAGE-IV-BLACK-EDITION-ASUS-0601.zip

Thread:
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44056-R4EBE-beta-UEFI-build-for-SNb-E-and-125-strap-need-a-beta-tester-please!&s=5309f4e23e9d3d5241a3548d29a752d3&country=&status=


----------



## Mulle1991

Its not the asus board i got the pcie problem.

Its on my bigbang xpower 2


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Nothing really :O
> 
> Hmm thats a good thing ill recive my brand new R4BE next week from RMA case


What for have you RMA'd it?


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> What for have you RMA'd it?


Problems with the R4BE.

They run som test and the resault was (unstable) (Q-code 60)
Then they gave me a new one


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Personal opinion: no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *a few* have had issues with *8x8* GB sticks on this board *due to running separate kits at high speeds*


sorry had to fix it, can't have misinformation going around , scares people off from reading the rest








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hey all.
> Well i have a big problem?...
> 
> I just added my nr 3 graphic card and suddenly gpu2 cant be detected?
> I think its the pcie slot because i tried to swap the cards and gpu 2 still wont be detected?
> 
> Anybody having this problem before?????
> 
> Im sorry this issue is on a msi bigbang xpower 2 motherboard but maybe someone having this issue before would be able to help


Verify power cables are in both the PSU and the cards. Also ensure that the middle card is indeed going into the PCIE slot as depending on how you ahve them in if its a bad bridge ( WC) then yeah it could miss or if Air then you can reseat it. Check the motherboard manual for anything that may need to be set / unset.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> sorry had to fix it, can't have misinformation going around , scares people off from reading the rest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Verify power cables are in both the PSU and the cards. Also ensure that the middle card is indeed going into the PCIE slot as depending on how you ahve them in if its a bad bridge ( WC) then yeah it could miss or if Air then you can reseat it. Check the motherboard manual for anything that may need to be set / unset.


all three cards have worked before. and now suddenly they dont.
Its the PCIE slot there is done/dead or somthing because the card is working,

The Card is correct in the slot.
And the manuel dosent realy tell me anything
and all cables are set


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> all three cards have worked before. and now suddenly they dont.
> Its the PCIE slot there is done/dead or somthing because the card is working,
> 
> The Card is correct in the slot.
> And the manuel dosent realy tell me anything
> and all cables are set


I had slots not working with 3960X, but 4960X in same board fixed it.

I blame your CPU.

For me, it was the bottom x16 electrical lsot that did not work, but all other did, and it's only when first x16 slot is populated.

IF you see that light is not on for that slot when you power board up...well...try slots 1/5/7


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> sorry had to fix it, can't have misinformation going around , scares people off from reading the rest


I was speaking from my experience, I personally have 32 GB kits (four 8 GB sticks) and I've had those issues. I didn't speak for everyone. I haven't mixed any of my kits together neither have I run any high speeds.

Sorry had to correct this.


----------



## NEOAethyr

Well dudes, I just woke up a bit ago and had my pc shutdown since I went to bed.
I figured the bandwith should be fine from a shutdown since it's fine from a restart, but nope.
Bandwith was back to 45k'ish.

But I did figure out something, I ran the exact pattern I did last night:

1. Load cmos profile or do a power up from complete shutdown, bandwith is bad beginning at this point.

Restart
Set cpu multi to 38, restart
Set cpu multi to 40 + set ram div lower at the same time
Restart
Set ram div higher
Restart
Done, bandwith is back to normal

No need to load windows or bench between those steps I found out.

Bug happens on complete shutdown.
Some cmos profiles from the get go have bad bandwith (my 110+2600 profile is this way, but my basic 110 profile isn't, the one I had before I got it seemly stable).
Loading a good profile from a bad profile doesn't fix the bandwith, but loading a profile with lower bclk does, but only if I can get back to 110 with good bandwith...

For example:
Load good 100 profile (Note this still has bad bandwith, but I think it's ok for this bclk).
Load bad 110+2600 profile = bad bandwith.

Load good 100 profile...
Load good 110 profile = good bandwith.
Load bad 110+2600 profile = bad bandwith.

When powering up form complete shutdown or after loading bad profile and restarting, use method above and it's back to good bandwith.

I've tried voltages timings and the like and nothing else fixes the prob.

Tested so far at 4.4ghz cpu, 2600+ mem, like the ones in my screens shots previously post a page or 2 back:

2hrs batman
1hr fc3
2hrs strider stable
1hr acm stable

It looks to be 100% stable but I'm not completely done with testing to be sure.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I had slots not working with 3960X, but 4960X in same board fixed it.
> 
> I blame your CPU.
> 
> For me, it was the bottom x16 electrical lsot that did not work, but all other did, and it's only when first x16 slot is populated.
> 
> IF you see that light is not on for that slot when you power board up...well...try slots 1/5/7


I realy dont know. But soon im gonna build my New rig. R4BE with 4960x.


----------



## InfiniteImp

Hoping someone can give me a bit of advice here.. been searching the web but can't find an answer to this question..

I've been running my R4BE for a few months now using the onboard audio. On my previous board (Rampage IV Extreme) I was running an Auzentech Bravura 7.1 card. Am I better off sticking with the R4BE onboard audio (seeing as the R4BE is newer than the Bravura) or will be Bravura give me a better audio experience given that it's a dedicated card? I've got no idea how to compare the two going by specs alone. I've upgraded the opamps on the Bravura as well, fwiw.

Opinions would be appreciated.

PS. Love this board. Nice and stable, all cores of the 4930K at 4.7GHz with liquid cooling. Yes I know I can get more out of it but this is a nice comfortable performance-vs-temp spot for me.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I'm getting random shut downs, no errors or blue screens. Could it be my power supply is starting to fail? Or the motherboard acting goofy?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'm getting random shut downs, no errors or blue screens. Could it be my power supply is starting to fail? Or the motherboard acting goofy?


probably the mobo, i dont think the psu would randomly go like that unless its hitting really high loads.

were you getting these problems while just light gaming/idle?

did it happen when you had your old 4930k in?


----------



## Doug2507

How long does it run for before shutting down? Have you checked the mini dump?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> probably the mobo, i dont think the psu would randomly go like that unless its hitting really high loads.
> 
> were you getting these problems while just light gaming/idle?
> 
> did it happen when you had your old 4930k in?


Happens on idle, but a game will cause it to shut down and restart.

Didn't happen with the old CPU. I did have different problems with it though. I would get a BSOD when I powered it on, unless I did a restart. That went away with a clean win7 install.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> How long does it run for before shutting down? Have you checked the mini dump?


On idle, about 1hour, a game will shut my PC down during loading screens even. Can't play for more than 20mins.

What's the mini dump? How do I check?


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I'm getting random shut downs, no errors or blue screens. Could it be my power supply is starting to fail? Or the motherboard acting goofy?


Hi, had the same issue when I first got my motherboard, it's most likely ram related, I had to adjust the ram settings and timings in the bios after doing that I've never had another random restart.


----------



## SeanEboy

Hey guise! I have a RIVBE.. and I am looking to run quadfire... I have these blocks: EK-FC R9-290X-NKAC (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=39425), and I know the bridges won't work... So does that mean I need to use the terminals? Also, which route do I take? I see options for serial, and parallel...?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Hey guise! I have a RIVBE.. and I am looking to run quadfire... I have these blocks: EK-FC R9-290X-NKAC (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=39425), and I know the bridges won't work... So does that mean I need to use the terminals? Also, which route do I take? I see options for serial, and parallel...?


Those style of blocks use the "terminal" links. Serial pushes water through one card after another, parallel splits flow to each card @ the same time. I think EK sells a hybrid terminal for quad-fire/SLi, but i'm not sure the benefits of using it. You will definitely want two pumps for that kinda setup.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Hey guise! I have a RIVBE.. and I am looking to run quadfire... I have these blocks: EK-FC R9-290X-NKAC (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=39425), and I know the bridges won't work... So does that mean I need to use the terminals? Also, which route do I take? I see options for serial, and parallel...?


You need to use this for quadfire:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37220

It's the terminal version of this:



It puts 2 parallel pairs of GPUs in series.

Each card gets 1/2 of the nominal the flow rate, while the system sees only 1 GPU of equivalent restriction.

The best win/win going for quads









Darlene


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What's the mini dump? How do I check?


Mini-dump is a record of a crash. Few ways u can read it. I downloaded the free version of WhoCrashed and use that.


----------



## Kimir

I use bluescreenview, I find it better than than whocrashed.


----------



## cadaveca

I think it's about time for a pic:



waiting for the WC bits I want to come still.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Mini-dump is a record of a crash. Few ways u can read it. I downloaded the free version of WhoCrashed and use that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I use bluescreenview, I find it better than than whocrashed.


Thanks for the input, tried giving you both rep, but was only able to rep Kimir. I'm guessing mods get no rep! Lol


----------



## LazyGreek

Hello,

I just made a new build with this motherboard and a 4930k. I was wondering if someone could point me in the correct direction in how to overclock this chip. I do have dominator 4 x4gb, timing says, 11-13-13-31. So far the only thing Ive done is change in the BIOS to XMP to have the correct timings.

A couple things Ive tried, 1st was through AI suite 3, was go to 4100ghz. computer would restart and wouldn't load windows and just keep restarting and also get the







blue screen. So I would reset to default settings in the BIOS.

2nd thing i tried was, in the BIOS, change to the OC gamer profile. still, same problem of not loading into windows, and quite a few of the blue screens again with the sad face









I do live in southern california, if someone could point me the right way in how to learn this.


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Thanks for the input, tried giving you both rep, but was only able to rep Kimir. I'm guessing mods get no rep! Lol


install blue screen viewer for ease.

BSV's good. Have you found out what the cause is? I've posted this before but i had what sounded like the exact same issue. Luckily i'd just done a fresh install and was able to narrow it down to one of the drivers included on the BE disk. Can't remember which one though!

Dave - Nice case man! Quick question for you, got another set of 2666c10, only put it in quad and xmp profiles are either 2400c11 or 2666c11. Does it change to cas11 on quad???


----------



## Ajay57

What's the set of 2666c10 Doug G.SKILL or something else??

AJ.


----------



## Doug2507

Pixie dust Dominators.


----------



## Ajay57

These are the Ram i have at the moment Doug very stable and overclock to 2400 Mhz!!!







Yes they colour match the Motherboard as well, no bright red!!

How about this set by G.SKILL F3-2666C11Q-16GZHD QUAD SET X79 tested???

Check them out and let me know??

AJ.


----------



## Doug2507

I'd be inclined to think they are Hynix but sure Dave could confirm either way. If you're benching with them Philip i'd look for a s/h set of quad samsung and dual psc.


----------



## Ajay57

Yes i think these are Hynix and double sided as well, but some are Samsung chips as well just pot luck if you get the right ones!!

Is there much difference between the two chips?? Doug.


----------



## alancsalt

F3-2800C11Q-16GTXD are single sided. Useful Asrock table shows which sticks are single sided and which double sided. http://www.asrock.com/mb/memory.asp?Model=X79%20Extreme6


----------



## Doug2507

Good to see your ram up a notch but it's all about timings man!

Hynix are great for speed but samsung will run tighter which is what you want for benching. As i say, quad samsung are great for some benches (also run as dual!), dual PSC for others. The 2666c10 dom's are well worth seeking out on the s/h market, i've got 2 sticks from one set running 2800+c9 tight under 1.9v, i don't think you'll see anything near that with hynix.


----------



## Ajay57

Well according to Alan post these are Double sided Ram Sticks other than that i can not really say Doug!!

Sorry i forgot to say thanks for the useful link!!


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Good to see your ram up a notch but it's all about timings man!
> 
> Hynix are great for speed but samsung will run tighter which is what you want for benching. As i say, quad samsung are great for some benches (also run as dual!), dual PSC for others. The 2666c10 dom's are well worth seeking out on the s/h market, i've got 2 sticks from one set running 2800+c9 tight under 1.9v, i don't think you'll see anything near that with hynix.












Only thing that could rip these from my cold, dead hands would be a quad set of highly binned PI's or original Turbulance II's


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazyGreek*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just made a new build with this motherboard and a 4930k. I was wondering if someone could point me in the correct direction in how to overclock this chip. I do have dominator 4 x4gb, timing says, 11-13-13-31. So far the only thing Ive done is change in the BIOS to XMP to have the correct timings.
> 
> A couple things Ive tried, 1st was through AI suite 3, was go to 4100ghz. computer would restart and wouldn't load windows and just keep restarting and also get the
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> blue screen. So I would reset to default settings in the BIOS.
> 
> 2nd thing i tried was, in the BIOS, change to the OC gamer profile. still, same problem of not loading into windows, and quite a few of the blue screens again with the sad face
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do live in southern california, if someone could point me the right way in how to learn this.


http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=

This should contain some of the information you seek. Iv'e never been able to get the gamer profile to work on any asus board. This board requires allot more manual tuning than most, which is a blessing for some, and a curse for others.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazyGreek*
> 
> I do live in southern california, if someone could point me the right way in how to learn this.


welcome

but i have to ask what exactly are you saying here?? !! ?? i know quite a few people in CA who can successfully oc so i personally can eliminate the fact you are in CA to not being able to oc, probably just your lack of experience which we can fix !!








(i kidd)!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LazyGreek*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just made a new build with this motherboard and a 4930k. I was wondering if someone could point me in the correct direction in how to overclock this chip. I do have dominator 4 x4gb, timing says, 11-13-13-31. So far the only thing Ive done is change in the BIOS to XMP to have the correct timings.
> 
> A couple things Ive tried, 1st was through AI suite 3, was go to 4100ghz. computer would restart and wouldn't load windows and just keep restarting and also get the
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> blue screen. So I would reset to default settings in the BIOS.
> 
> 2nd thing i tried was, in the BIOS, change to the OC gamer profile. still, same problem of not loading into windows, and quite a few of the blue screens again with the sad face
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do live in southern california, if someone could point me the right way in how to learn this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=
> 
> This should contain some of the information you seek. Iv'e never been able to get the gamer profile to work on any asus board. This board requires allot more manual tuning than most, which is a blessing for some, and a curse for others.
Click to expand...

this


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> Dave - Nice case man! Quick question for you, got another set of 2666c10, only put it in quad and xmp profiles are either 2400c11 or 2666c11. Does it change to cas11 on quad???


I got this set at the same time as the one you got, but this one has numbers a bit higher than Centvalny's. I have #200-204 still, think you got the 18x, and Centvalny had 170-174?

2400 C11 is for SNB/SNB-E or other, while 2666 C11 is IVB/IVB-E/Haswell, you would think. Number of sticks shouldn't matter. Of course, 2666 is gonna need BCLK adjust, 2400 will not, so maybe that's why...that's an ODD SPD set-up, for sure.

As to the case..well, for the money, it's good, but still very much a budget case. Sadly, I had to buy mine, but I just could not say no.







Meanwhile I had to send my H80i for RMA, after only 2 weeks of use.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> These are the Ram i have at the moment Doug very stable and overclock to 2400 Mhz!!!
> AJ.


I had that set for review, and gave them to our cooler reviewer to use in his test rig, over a year ago now. Those you got are likely Hynix, but as mentioned, some sets are Samsung, too, but that's rare, since most average Samsung seems to do 2133 9-11-10-27 @ 1.5V...while Hynix doesn't really...it does 11-11-11-27.


----------



## LazyGreek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome
> 
> but i have to ask what exactly are you saying here?? !! ?? i know quite a few people in CA who can successfully oc so i personally can eliminate the fact you are in CA to not being able to oc, probably just your lack of experience which we can fix !!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i kidd)!
> this


Reason I said where I lived, maybe someone who lives near me to help me out, be it a store or someone.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazyGreek*
> 
> Reason I said where I lived, maybe someone who lives near me to help me out, be it a store or someone.


If you were in Edmonton, I'd stop by for a beer and an OC. Married? I am a man of many talents...










j/k, of course.

Listen, I OC people's rigs over teamspeak A LOT. I got into doing tech stuff many years ago working in a call center before the internet was a thing, and cell phones were new. I've spent well over a decade doing tech support and such by voice...and it's not really that hard, especially with today's platforms that are so easy-to-use, compared to what we had many years ago.

What you need to do is clear CMOS, boot into BIOS, find stock voltage values, and enter them manually. Then increase CPU multi until it fails...and then decide whether you want to add more voltage, or stay at that clock (usually 4.2-4.5 GHz).

If it fails, and you add more vCPU, and that doesn't help, or you need a big boost, then look to VTT and VCCSA.

When CPU is tested, enabled XMP for your sticks (hopefully less than 2400 MHz), and test again. If it fails, look to VCCSA and VTT again..maybe a touch vCPU.

Then you are done.

That's all you gotta do these days, since we use Turbo to OC.

The thing that takes the big amount of time is tuning voltages down, or tweaking timings. That requires an individual approach, since each ram set and CPU are going to match together a bit differently from each sample. Just simply don't rush it, do slow, and start at stock, moving one thing at a time, and then testing as you go.


----------



## LazyGreek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If you were in Edmonton, I'd stop by for a beer and an OC. Married? I am a man of many talents...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j/k, of course.
> 
> Listen, I OC people's rigs over teamspeak A LOT. I got into doing tech stuff many years ago working in a call center before the internet was a thing, and cell phones were new. I've spent well over a decade doing tech support and such by voice...and it's not really that hard, especially with today's platforms that are so easy-to-use, compared to what we had many years ago.
> 
> What you need to do is clear CMOS, boot into BIOS, find stock voltage values, and enter them manually. Then increase CPU multi until it fails...and then decide whether you want to add more voltage, or stay at that clock (usually 4.2-4.5 GHz).
> 
> If it fails, and you add more vCPU, and that doesn't help, or you need a big boost, then look to VTT and VCCSA.
> 
> When CPU is tested, enabled XMP for your sticks (hopefully less than 2400 MHz), and test again. If it fails, look to VCCSA and VTT again..maybe a touch vCPU.
> 
> Then you are done.
> 
> That's all you gotta do these days, since we use Turbo to OC.
> 
> The thing that takes the big amount of time is tuning voltages down, or tweaking timings. That requires an individual approach, since each ram set and CPU are going to match together a bit differently from each sample. Just simply don't rush it, do slow, and start at stock, moving one thing at a time, and then testing as you go.


Can having the wrong ram be the problem? I bought a quad kit, with the timing of 11-13-13-31. Looking at the ram vendor list, its not on there. Would this cause the crashing ?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazyGreek*
> 
> Can having the wrong ram be the problem? I bought a quad kit, with the timing of 11-13-13-31. Looking at the ram vendor list, its not on there. Would this cause the crashing ?


definitely possible. I'd pop off a couple of BIOS timing screenshots, showing primary, secondary, and tertiary timings, and post 'em..maybe something sticks out.

Ram clocking can be hard..some CPUs are just dogs when it comes to memory...which is why I say focus on CPU first. Memory increase isn't going to make much of a difference after 2133 MHz, since that'll get you over 60000 MB/s @ 4.5 GHz, and the CPUs are "rated" for 59000. Multi-GPU users will see some increases to minimum frames mostly, and that can specifically a huge impact, but other than that, 1600-to-2133 MHz is where I'd suggest most to aim for.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazyGreek*
> 
> Can having the wrong ram be the problem? I bought a quad kit, with the timing of 11-13-13-31. Looking at the ram vendor list, its not on there. Would this cause the crashing ?


Not likely, but possible... Crashing is caused from instability. OC'ing is a finesse & patience based hobby. Some people are lucky & able to do large jumps, other people have to do it 100mhz @ a time. OC your CPU first, then move onto memory, following the directions provided above by Dave. Also, make sure you read through that guide I linked above. It's long, and has lots of words, but it's the go-to authority for OC'ing with this mother board.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not likely, but possible... Crashing is caused from instability. OC'ing is a finesse & patience based hobby. Some people are lucky & able to do large jumps, other people have to do it 100mhz @ a time. OC your CPU first, then move onto memory, following the directions provided above by Dave. Also, make sure you read through that guide I linked above. It's long, and has lots of words, but it's the go-to authority for OC'ing with this mother board.


Man, I hate to say it, but I think about 40% of problems are memory-related. If not more.

Raja/JJ writes good guides, but man.... 45 CPUs? and he has no more info than I do?

I got three chips, could have told you all the same things. I did with Haswell, too, before the launch. ASUS guides for Haswell, suggest keeping vCache in sync or 2-3 multis lower than CPU....but only 3900-4200 MHz on cache is needed for any given clock for 24/7 users(today, boards default to 39 most often. I feel vindicated.







). These sorts of discrepancies make figuring out how to deal with issues that arise very difficult, since those guides are more intended for benchmarkers and reviewers, too, and the huge amount of info provided in ASUS guides are most geared towards that sort of user.

ASUS Haswell OC guide...is the reviewer guide.

I didn't look at the guides for IVB-E from ASUS...actually haven't talked to ASUS since before I got these boards.. wasn't even expecting them. One day the first showed up, and a couple of weeks later, the next one did. Second board arrived, I started posting pictures here and on TPU.

I'm not saying anything is wrong with ASUS guides, however. I just don't think you should approach them looking for 24/7 clocking.

BTW, on the ram thing...I don't think you've played with much AMD chips lately. Memory is such a problem for AMD, and once you spend time with that, and then move over to Intel, the commonalities are rather interesting.


----------



## LazyGreek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> definitely possible. I'd pop off a couple of BIOS timing screenshots, showing primary, secondary, and tertiary timings, and post 'em..maybe something sticks out.
> 
> Ram clocking can be hard..some CPUs are just dogs when it comes to memory...which is why I say focus on CPU first. Memory increase isn't going to make much of a difference after 2133 MHz, since that'll get you over 60000 MB/s @ 4.5 GHz, and the CPUs are "rated" for 59000. Multi-GPU users will see some increases to minimum frames mostly, and that can specifically a huge impact, but other than that, 1600-to-2133 MHz is where I'd suggest most to aim for.


I cleared my cmos, changed to manual, and set the multiplier to 40, still got a blue screen....Im going to go get a new kit of ram really quick from the store and see if that helps....


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazyGreek*
> 
> I cleared my cmos, changed to manual, and set the multiplier to 40, still got a blue screen....Im going to go get a new kit of ram really quick from the store and see if that helps....


Check VRM settings first..set loadline to high or very-high, and current to 180% VCCSA loadline can also be adjusted to high and 130%. stock vCPU should be 1.1 - 1.2V or so.

Those two VRM items are CRITICAL. No matter what board you run, you gotta adjust power profiling first. Many chips hit 130W throttle @ stock, and board will shut down if OCP is triggered.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> install blue screen viewer for ease.
> 
> BSV's good. Have you found out what the cause is? I've posted this before but i had what sounded like the exact same issue. Luckily i'd just done a fresh install and was able to narrow it down to one of the drivers included on the BE disk. Can't remember which one though!
> 
> Dave - Nice case man! Quick question for you, got another set of 2666c10, only put it in quad and xmp profiles are either 2400c11 or 2666c11. Does it change to cas11 on quad???


Thanks. Will install the BSOD viewer.

There was this weird device driver that I could only install by inserting the disc and have windows search for it. I'll post the screen shot of it's name.

Installing windows definitely took care of my cold boot, BSOD's. But these random shut downs are driving me insane. I also noticed that they started happening after installing 76 windows updates.


----------



## skupples

Fair enough, but we are still waiting for you to publish a complete guide!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Fair enough, but we are still waiting for you to publish a complete guide!


Ha!










My SSD took a dump first thing Monday morning, and I just got up and running again last night. Didn't even have cash for a new drive, and old drive is D-E-A-D dead. Lost everything.

So yeah, I spent most of the week re-taking pictures from 16 boards, working on edits, etc...

gotta re-do all the writing I had done for the IVB-E review, plus re-find the pics...ugh.

And..I don't get paid to do this, so it's on MY time...MY schedule. I mean, I need to feed my family and such, so screw the reviews that don't pay. Meanwhile I've had 20-hour "work" days, trying to get caught back up.

Sent in invoice to get paid...didn't get paid.

So I pulled an SSD out of the memory review rig, and here I am. You're really barking up the wrong tree asking about that stuff right now. I'd be more than happy to send all these samples back and just play games from today onward.

I know that was outta left field, but hey...


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I got this set at the same time as the one you got, but this one has numbers a bit higher than Centvalny's. I have #200-204 still, think you got the 18x, and Centvalny had 170-174?


It's a different set i've got running on the BE, think these are 192+. Checked with 2 sticks and changed back to c10. Weird thing is though on cpu-z spd one of the sticks comes up a Kingston C11?? Sticks are defo Corsair though. Need to check out the other two. Very strange!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> It's a different set i've got running on the BE, think these are 192+. Checked with 2 sticks and changed back to c10. Weird thing is though on cpu-z spd one of the sticks comes up a Kingston C11?? Sticks are defo Corsair though. Need to check out the other two. Very strange!


huh. Interesting. Sounds like some LN2 user had them before.









CPU-Z SPD readings can be off, try AIDA64, or use BIOS SPD tool. IF it says Kingston there...and those are the sticks I sent you, we best have a chat.









If not, well, yeah, it's just odd. If you have other sticks installed along with the Corsair, it'd explain some of the weirdness, but I dunno for sure. Things like this need to be seen in person!


----------



## Zimzoid

Hey guy's and gals, thinking of upgrading my 4x4 Gskill 1600mhz 1.50v ram that I've had for a few years now, I want more Gskill but wondering if they have anything with black heat spreaders? All I can find is red and blue


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hey guy's and gals, thinking of upgrading my 4x4 Gskill 1600mhz 1.50v ram that I've had for a few years now, I want more Gskill but wondering if they have anything with black heat spreaders? All I can find is red and blue


theres these models

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231676

im sure you can find the right ones for you with that heatsink on them.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> theres these models
> Hey thanks for the fast reply  just found those here (new Zealand) but all they have are 1600mhz 1.35v version would not be much of an upgrade, might see if I get some ordered in that's the trouble here not alot of variety for the enthusiast and expensive those 1600mhz snipers are $250 NZ dollars
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231676
> 
> im sure you can find the right ones for you with that heatsink on them.


----------



## Doug2507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> huh. Interesting. Sounds like some LN2 user had them before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU-Z SPD readings can be off, try AIDA64, or use BIOS SPD tool. IF it says Kingston there...and those are the sticks I sent you, we best have a chat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not, well, yeah, it's just odd. If you have other sticks installed along with the Corsair, it'd explain some of the weirdness, but I dunno for sure. Things like this need to be seen in person!


Not your set Dave but spot on with the LN2 guess.

Sticks are defo Corsair 87-B but at least one is reported as Kingston in cpu-z. (dropped back to dual to get xmp-c10). I'll go check the other two as well, might explain 2400/2666c11 xmp prof. in bios on quad. I'll check with aida/bios as well.

Don't mix and match any sets!


----------



## Zimzoid

Whoops messed up that reply tapping away on an s4 here can be a little awkward


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hey guy's and gals, thinking of upgrading my 4x4 Gskill 1600mhz 1.50v ram that I've had for a few years now, I want more Gskill but wondering if they have anything with black heat spreaders? All I can find is red and blue


G.Skill Ripjaws Z sticks come with black heat spreaders
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Description=ripjaws+z&Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH

Like these:







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> These are the Ram i have at the moment Doug very stable and overclock to 2400 Mhz!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes they colour match the Motherboard as well, no bright red!!
> 
> How about this set by G.SKILL F3-2666C11Q-16GZHD QUAD SET X79 tested???
> 
> Check them out and let me know??
> 
> AJ.


----------



## sabishiihito

Lots of Ripjaws Z kits have black heat spreaders:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231586
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231723


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> G.Skill Ripjaws Z sticks come with black heat spreaders
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Description=ripjaws+z&Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH
> 
> Like these:


Thanks AJ, found these here they might do but that price. .. http://m.mightyape.co.nz/product/4x8GB-GSkill-RipJaws-Z-1866MHz-DDR3-RAM/21730848


----------



## Ajay57

It not the black heat spreaders you need to worry about, more importantly will it work with your Black Edition Mobo!!!!

As some of those posted are Haswell based Ram Modules and not so much for X79 Platform!!

"THE WORD IS BE-CAREFUL OUT THERE!!" Before you buy and waste all that hard earned MONEY!!!









AJ.


----------



## Zimzoid

Thanks all for your input, and yes I will be careful, I'm in no rush really as my 4930k, gtx780s sli setup is working perfectly , just going to buy a new case and want it to look sweet as well as performance


----------



## LazyGreek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Check VRM settings first..set loadline to high or very-high, and current to 180% VCCSA loadline can also be adjusted to high and 130%. stock vCPU should be 1.1 - 1.2V or so.
> 
> Those two VRM items are CRITICAL. No matter what board you run, you gotta adjust power profiling first. Many chips hit 130W throttle @ stock, and board will shut down if OCP is triggered.


So, I went and bought a 2 x 8 gb corsair kit 1600hz kit from the verified memory list. I set my mulitplier to 42 all cores, and went to 120%..... it booted up and running.....so I will do some stress tests....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> It not the black heat spreaders you need to worry about, more importantly will it work with your Black Edition Mobo!!!!
> 
> As some of those posted are Haswell based Ram Modules and not so much for X79 Platform!!
> 
> "THE WORD IS BE-CAREFUL OUT THERE!!" Before you buy and waste all that hard earned MONEY!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


Yeah after seeing all the issues some have had, especially with larger kits, I'm definitely a bit worried, but I'm now finally ready to order the 8 x 8GB set of 2400 Ripjaws:

http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-19200cl10q2-64gbzhd

G.Skill recently added the RIVBE to their QVL for the set, so I'm going to give them a shot. Is anyone here already running that set? I don't recall anyone here saying so yet.

All I'm really waiting on now is the next "10% off all desktop memory" component coupon that newegg typically sends out to their mailing list every few weeks and is good for 24 or 48 hrs. The last one I got was 2 weeks ago so I'm hoping it won't be long before it comes back around. I've waited this long I don't mind waiting a little longer to knock $75 off the price, plus I'd be kicking myself if I did pay full price every time they have that 10% off coupon.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazyGreek*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome
> 
> but i have to ask what exactly are you saying here?? !! ?? i know quite a few people in CA who can successfully oc so i personally can eliminate the fact you are in CA to not being able to oc, probably just your lack of experience which we can fix !!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i kidd)!
> this
> 
> 
> 
> Reason I said where I lived, maybe someone who lives near me to help me out, be it a store or someone.
Click to expand...

no no i was seriously just kidding, nothing more please dont think it was in anything but fun !!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazyGreek*
> 
> So, I went and bought a 2 x 8 gb corsair kit 1600hz kit from the verified memory list. I set my mulitplier to 42 all cores, and went to 120%..... it booted up and running.....so I will do some stress tests....


So...working well now? Or still some issues?


----------



## LazyGreek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> So...working well now? Or still some issues?


yes, its working now.......maybe in a few days I will go higher


----------



## sabishiihito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> It not the black heat spreaders you need to worry about, more importantly will it work with your Black Edition Mobo!!!!
> 
> As some of those posted are Haswell based Ram Modules and not so much for X79 Platform!!
> 
> "THE WORD IS BE-CAREFUL OUT THERE!!" Before you buy and waste all that hard earned MONEY!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


RAM is RAM. Even if the XMP profile isn't "optimized" for X79, you can set the primary timings and command rate manually and let the board deal with the subs.


----------



## NEOAethyr

Well I found this morning that I had set the slow boot mode to enabled from when I had my previous cpu.
It wasn't the cause of the aida64 bandwith prob, but disabling it helped make the board a bit snappier.

I found it's a setting called qpi link speed, it's just a manual switch for it.
And this new cpu doesn't seem to care either way, it ain't helping it boot high bclk like my previous cpu (previous didn't clock as high, bclk and cpu speed).

Before I went to bed I had ran alot of y-cruncher.
I got vccsa down to 0.050v and got 10hrs+ of that tested, 114mhz bclk and just past 2400mhz ram at cas9-11-11 cmd1.
1.65v ram too.

Now I'm testing 0.025v for vccsa.
Over a half hour into y-cruncher now with that.
Bandwith is over 65k across the board in aida64.

Ok here's the thing that gets me, over 10hrs y-c stable at 114mhz bclk, but cannot post 115mhz.
It doesn't even try, it goes straight to post code 00, nothing before that either.

Anyone got any ideas how to boot a bclk that does a post code 00?

To me, the way to go is, higher cpu speed 1st, try for highest speed at stock voltage.
This will get rid of any major slow downs, like the mouse stuttering that happens on stock (why I don't know, but it's horrid).
Higher bclk will get you alot more bandwith for the mem speed, and will cut your dpc latency in half or even by 2/3rd's.

Y-cruncher seems to still be the king for testing the mem controller and perhaps even the mem too.
I did hours of gaming at 110mhz bclk and 2600mhz+ mem, but within mins y-c said it wasn't stable without alot more vmem.

I did mess with 114mhz bclk and over 2700mhz mem.
But it want's more vccsa and alot more vmem, couldn't get it stable enough to try for a 24.7 setup yet.

These trident-x heatsinks are nice, tested over 1.85v and they just got slightly warm and that was all, no active cooling at all.

Some of my notes from this morning:
Bandwith bug also happens on unstable shutdown when pressing reset button
114mhz bclk 2736mhz mem needs +0.075v vccsa to complete aida64 bench


----------



## Ajay57

I understand that Ram is Ram, but for some reason on these motherboards, its more important to get the right Quad Sets!!!

The point i am trying to make here is i have now had 2 X79 Mobo's with Random Crashes, which was both traced back to the RAM!

Not being on the QVL LIST and ever since i have purchased this Ram that is on the list, it works perfectly and no Crashes at all!!

So why bother testing Ram and giving a guidance list if no one is going to follow or take any notice at all?

Ever since i have been on this forum and others i read the same thing, over and over again!

So each to there own way of doing things, but it could cost you a lot of money if you get things wrong!!!!





AJ.


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I got this set at the same time as the one you got, but this one has numbers a bit higher than Centvalny's. I have #200-204 still, think you got the 18x, and Centvalny had 170-174?


Dom Plat 2666C10 #170~174....Don't mind the vdimm, CH AB mod +0.2V for validation just in case some MFR needs >2.4V









2720 Latency boundaries Nearer, twcl 5



http://imgur.com/InqTCmm



2952 Latency boundaries Further, twcl 6



http://imgur.com/ohpjZEp


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I understand that Ram is Ram, but for some reason on these motherboards, its more important to get the right Quad Sets!!!
> 
> The point i am trying to make here is i have now had 2 X79 Mobo's with Random Crashes, which was both traced back to the RAM!
> 
> Not being on the QVL LIST and ever since i have purchased this Ram that is on the list, it works perfectly and no Crashes at all!!
> 
> So why bother testing Ram and giving a guidance list if no one is going to follow or take any notice at all?
> 
> Ever since i have been on this forum and others i read the same thing, over and over again!
> 
> So each to there own way of doing things, but it could cost you a lot of money if you get things wrong!!!!
> 
> AJ.


Definitely agree. I have basic set of RipjawsZ (4x4 GB, 1600 MHz) now and seems to work almost like a breeze. After two not-so-well-working Corsair 32 GB kits I am afraid to make next purchase.

I am curious if RipjawsZ 32 or 64 kits would work fine though. So how about 64 GB of 1333 MHz RipjawsZ?


----------



## chimaychanga

Hello All my fellow R4BE owners

I have an off topic question in this thread linked below.
Any advice to this issue would be highly appreciated








Thanks

http://www.overclock.net/t/1469524/ek-supremacy-block-flow-problem/0_100


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I understand that Ram is Ram, but for some reason on these motherboards, its more important to get the right Quad Sets!!!
> 
> The point i am trying to make here is i have now had 2 X79 Mobo's with Random Crashes, which was both traced back to the RAM!
> 
> Not being on the QVL LIST and ever since i have purchased this Ram that is on the list, it works perfectly and no Crashes at all!!
> 
> So why bother testing Ram and giving a guidance list if no one is going to follow or take any notice at all?
> 
> Ever since i have been on this forum and others i read the same thing, over and over again!
> 
> So each to there own way of doing things, but it could cost you a lot of money if you get things wrong!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


Those are the ones I got too. One more week until I can make it to Microcenter for the Motherboard and the CPU


----------



## Gunslinger.

Did some LN2 benching this weekend testing out a new 4960X I was lucky enough to find.

This motherboard is very strong. I used the basic LN2 #1 profile already set in the bios, and adjusted my key voltages, bclock and memory settings from there. Having the profiles is very nice, makes benching much more enjoyable knowing the basics are set right, and that you just need to make minor adjustments to get the system up to speed and very stable.



System:
Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
Intel i7 4960X
4x2GB Corsair Dominator GTX3's
Corsair AX1200
Kingpin F1 Dark CPU pot

Took the six core HWBot Prime record CPU at 6.4GHz



Cinebench R11.5 record CPU at 6.33GHz



Cinebench R15 Record CPU at 6.35GHz


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Pretty numbers!


----------



## Ajay57

GREAT numbers posted for the LN2 RUN, but us mere mortals on WC it seems we have no chance at all lol!!

AJ.


----------



## Gunslinger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> GREAT numbers posted for the LN2 RUN, but us mere mortals on WC it seems we have no chance at all lol!!
> 
> AJ.


We've all got to start somewhere, I was also a watercooler from 2006-2008ish, then stepped up to a single stage, then dry ice, then a 2 stage cascade, then LN2


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> Did some LN2 benching this weekend testing out a new 4960X I was lucky enough to find.
> 
> This motherboard is very strong. I used the basic LN2 #1 profile already set in the bios, and adjusted my key voltages, bclock and memory settings from there. Having the profiles is very nice, makes benching much more enjoyable knowing the basics are set right, and that you just need to make minor adjustments to get the system up to speed and very stable.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> System:
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
> Intel i7 4960X
> 4x2GB Corsair Dominator GTX3's
> Corsair AX1200
> Kingpin F1 Dark CPU pot
> 
> Took the six core HWBot Prime record CPU at 6.4GHz
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cinebench R11.5 record CPU at 6.33GHz
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cinebench R15 Record CPU at 6.35GHz
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. So after a deployment like that, does the 4960X just return to normal civilian life?


----------



## Ajay57

Very true Gunslinger, but i would like to stay in the enthusiast league on the HWbot and enjoy my benching. As this is not only my benching unit its also my everyday PC!

AJ.


----------



## Gunslinger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Very true Gunslinger, but i would like to stay in the enthusiast league on the HWbot and enjoy my benching. As this is not only my benching unit its also my everyday PC!
> AJ.


That is exactly how I started out also, took about 2 years before I ended up with a separate bench table/system from the main rig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Very nice. So after a deployment like that, does the 4960X just return to normal civilian life?


The pots come off, air cooler goes on, and testing of different settings resumes.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> That is exactly how I started out also, took about 2 years before I ended up with a separate bench table/system from the main rig.
> *The pots come off, air cooler goes on, and testing of different settings resumes.*


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> Well I found this morning that I had set the slow boot mode to enabled from when I had my previous cpu.
> It wasn't the cause of the aida64 bandwith prob, but disabling it helped make the board a bit snappier.
> 
> I found it's a setting called qpi link speed, it's just a manual switch for it.
> And this new cpu doesn't seem to care either way, it ain't helping it boot high bclk like my previous cpu (previous didn't clock as high, bclk and cpu speed).
> 
> Before I went to bed I had ran alot of y-cruncher.
> I got vccsa down to 0.050v and got 10hrs+ of that tested, 114mhz bclk and just past 2400mhz ram at cas9-11-11 cmd1.
> 1.65v ram too.
> 
> Now I'm testing 0.025v for vccsa.
> Over a half hour into y-cruncher now with that.
> Bandwith is over 65k across the board in aida64.
> 
> Ok here's the thing that gets me, over 10hrs y-c stable at 114mhz bclk, but cannot post 115mhz.
> It doesn't even try, it goes straight to post code 00, nothing before that either.
> 
> Anyone got any ideas how to boot a bclk that does a post code 00?
> 
> To me, the way to go is, higher cpu speed 1st, try for highest speed at stock voltage.
> This will get rid of any major slow downs, like the mouse stuttering that happens on stock (why I don't know, but it's horrid).
> Higher bclk will get you alot more bandwith for the mem speed, and will cut your dpc latency in half or even by 2/3rd's.
> 
> Y-cruncher seems to still be the king for testing the mem controller and perhaps even the mem too.
> I did hours of gaming at 110mhz bclk and 2600mhz+ mem, but within mins y-c said it wasn't stable without alot more vmem.
> 
> I did mess with 114mhz bclk and over 2700mhz mem.
> But it want's more vccsa and alot more vmem, couldn't get it stable enough to try for a 24.7 setup yet.
> 
> These trident-x heatsinks are nice, tested over 1.85v and they just got slightly warm and that was all, no active cooling at all.
> 
> Some of my notes from this morning:
> Bandwith bug also happens on unstable shutdown when pressing reset button
> 114mhz bclk 2736mhz mem needs +0.075v vccsa to complete aida64 bench


Mine updating your rig so we know what you're working with? I'd be curious as well as since I have Trident X's currently (swapping for RipJaws this week) and a 4960x I'd be poised to try what you're doing since I can hit 4.5ghz @ 1.225 stable (possibly lower just this is the lowest I've gone ) yet I can't hit 4.6 even if I go to 1.5v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Definitely agree. I have basic set of RipjawsZ (4x4 GB, 1600 MHz) now and seems to work almost like a breeze. After two not-so-well-working Corsair 32 GB kits I am afraid to make next purchase.
> 
> I am curious if RipjawsZ 32 or 64 kits would work fine though. So how about 64 GB of 1333 MHz RipjawsZ?


I should have mine in this week. I have 64gb of Trident X and they work perfectly fine @ 1333, I just feel I'd get more out of my games and other things if they were at least 1866-2133 pref 2133.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Mine updating your rig so we know what you're working with? I'd be curious as well as since I have Trident X's currently (swapping for RipJaws this week) and a 4960x I'd be poised to try what you're doing since I can hit 4.5ghz @ 1.225 stable (possibly lower just this is the lowest I've gone ) yet I can't hit 4.6 even if I go to 1.5v
> I should have mine in this week. I have 64gb of Trident X and they work perfectly fine @ 1333, I just feel I'd get more out of my games and other things if they were at least 1866-2133 pref 2133.


What set of Ripjaws are you getting? These? http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-19200cl10q2-64gbzhd


----------



## Ajay57

Sorry to open a old subject, but how is this new Bios 0507?? Still using the Factory one 0403 very stable and works well with my OC and settings!!









So can the good members leave there comments and experiences with the 0507 so far!!









Wanting to know if its really worth changing to the up dated one.









AJ.


----------



## Gunslinger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Sorry to open a old subject, but how is this new Bios 0507?? Still using the Factory one 0403 very stable and works well with my OC and settings!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So can the good members leave there comments and experiences with the 0507 so far!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanting to know if its really worth changing to the up dated one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


I was using 0507 benching this weekend with the 4960X and it was rock stable, but I do know from experience that it has major issues with 3930K's. I heard beta 0601 is out there that fixes the SB-E issue.


----------



## Ajay57

Thanks for the reply, running the same here i7-4960X, did you notice any changes to the settings or Bios tools at all!!!

Just a noob question, since i have only had this Mobo for a few weeks, when you Flash the Bios which one does it change??

As i understand there is 2 Bios on this Mobo i think!!

AJ.


----------



## Gunslinger.

It flashes the one that you booted in on. There were no obvious changes that jumped out at me.


----------



## Ajay57

OK great will give it a serious look at that soon!!

AJ.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You need to use this for quadfire:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1207&products_id=37220
> 
> It's the terminal version of this:
> 
> 
> 
> It puts 2 parallel pairs of GPUs in series.
> 
> Each card gets 1/2 of the nominal the flow rate, while the system sees only 1 GPU of equivalent restriction.
> 
> The best win/win going for quads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


You truly are a Diva! Thanks so much!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> ~snip~


You're approaching it wrong, IMHO. 115 BCLK...USB3, audio, and other devices need to be disabled. USB3 starts to have issues @ 105 BCLK already, but if you do not use, you'd not see it. I leave a thumb drive plugged in, and when it drops out...I know BCLK is too far.

To get 2700 MHz ram, you run 125 BCLK divider + some BCLK. What you are doing is pushing the 2400 MHz divider, which is pretty weak to begin with....some CPUs just are not stable without significant voltage increase (I have one that is like this).

Based on what you report...you are having the issues you should expect doing that sort of clocking. Nothing wrong at all...just how it works. try something else.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I went through my crash dumps and there were only 3 files, I did get a few BSOD while trying to OC my CPU. Once I found the sweet spot I left it alone. I have had way more shut downs but like I said, no errors or BSOD.

I leaded the BIOS default settings on the motherboard and the random shut downs seem to have gone away. Which makes me wonder if I was just drawing too much power for my PSU to handle.

Does anybody know how many watts a 4930K draws at 4.8ghz?

Or it could very well be Poor overclocking settings. In which case, I need to find a guide for both tr R4BE and 4930K.

The OC guide I used was for Sandy Bridge E on a Gigabyte Board.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, running the same here i7-4960X, did you notice any changes to the settings or Bios tools at all!!!
> 
> Just a noob question, since i have only had this Mobo for a few weeks, when you Flash the Bios which one does it change??
> 
> As i understand there is 2 Bios on this Mobo i think!!
> 
> AJ.


Add's Vt-d for VMware use in the CPU settings.
Tweaks auto settings to get better results ( not by much but instead of it assuming I needed 1.12 it tried 1.05 etc. ) Stability fixes w/ some configurations is what else that's about it. If you're fine w/ your current no reason to update honestly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What set of Ripjaws are you getting? These? http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-19200cl10q2-64gbzhd


Either those or the 2133 variants, deciding atm. Thinking I may as well just shoot for the 2133 instead.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I went through my crash dumps and there were only 3 files, I did get a few BSOD while trying to OC my CPU. Once I found the sweet spot I left it alone. I have had way more shut downs but like I said, no errors or BSOD.
> 
> I leaded the BIOS default settings on the motherboard and the random shut downs seem to have gone away. Which makes me wonder if I was just drawing too much power for my PSU to handle.
> 
> Does anybody know how many watts a 4930K draws at 4.8ghz?


Not much.*1 Shut downs are caused by RAM. Try to clock your RAM at 1333 MHz, and if these shut downs disappear, you'd know you are at the right track.

Also try to change RAM channel Phase to extreme, and CPU voltage frequency to 500.

*1 ... 182.4 Watts. * voltage you are using Moving from 1.1 to 1.3 V might increase power consumption by half. Open turbo settings on CPU and set Ampers limit by hand. CPU would throttle when it would approach the limit.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Not much.*1 Shut downs are caused by RAM. Try to clock your RAM at 1333 MHz, and if these shut downs disappear, you'd know you are at the right track.
> 
> Also try to change RAM channel Phase to extreme, and CPU voltage frequency to 500.
> 
> *1 ... 182.4 Watts. * voltage you are using Moving from 1.1 to 1.3 V might increase power consumption by half. Open turbo settings on CPU and set Ampers limit by hand. CPU would throttle when it would approach the limit.


Yeah, the shut downs went away with default BIOS settings. Memory runs at 1600.

Weird stuff.


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You're approaching it wrong, IMHO. 115 BCLK...USB3, audio, and other devices need to be disabled. USB3 starts to have issues @ 105 BCLK already, but if you do not use, you'd not see it. I leave a thumb drive plugged in, and when it drops out...I know BCLK is too far.
> 
> To get 2700 MHz ram, you run 125 BCLK divider + some BCLK. What you are doing is pushing the 2400 MHz divider, which is pretty weak to begin with....some CPUs just are not stable without significant voltage increase (I have one that is like this).
> 
> Based on what you report...you are having the issues you should expect doing that sort of clocking. Nothing wrong at all...just how it works. try something else.


I kinda know but I'm trying to figure out what I really need to get past this, I thought of trying to lower the cpu multi way down but I haven't gotten to it yet.
You're saying usb3 cuts out?
I can disable audio and usb3 modes maybe, maybe if I look around my house for an adapter I can try it without usb at all.
But I'm honestly doubting it has anything to do with the pch at this point so far, but then again I don't know enough about this board yet.

I know my vga are fully capable of 150mhz pcie, at 2.0 though never had 3.0 before on my amd...

I just don't wanna go with the higher straps.
I know it might be impossible to get higher clocks fully stable at the 2400mhz mem div...
Which kinda sucks too.
2700 boots and benchs fine at low voltages, but can't pull of y-c at any voltage (at least to 1.8v as far as I tried it).

But then again she's slower at that speed unless go for lower timings.
2431.62mhz 9-11-11 is faster then 2736mhz at 10-12-12, except for latency (aida64) and dpc latency which is better at the 2700'ish.
And it works just fine I think at 114mhz bclk.

I actually failed y-c at 4.5hrs, but I'm re-checking now at a lower cpu multi, I went past 4.4ghz on stock voltage... (was checking both bclk and cpu speed at the same time, 4.45ghz)
I've done 10hrs at a higher vccsa and 3hrs at the same vccsa as now.

At least I know how to get away from that weird bandwith bug I get.
What's odd, at this peticuler spot where I'm at, if I change from a cpu multi of 38->39x or vice versa the system doesn't power down to switch the multi and the bug never shows it's self.
Anyways I can at least test the board now, before I didn't wanna do anything until I fixed that bandwith prob.

What I'm trying for now is to verify everything at 8hrs y-c.
Then try inching past 4.4ghz cpu to 4.45ghz and figure out how I can get that stable without touching llc and pwm, thinking maybe if the pll overvoltage setting gets me stable then cool







.
It's worth trying, Right now I'm running 4321mhz lol, at least that's what aida64 is saying (I know up to 4.4ghz is stable at stock and 4.5ghz is close, 4.45 should be closer).

I can't just jack up the pwm and everything because I don't have the side of my case on, I have it on so I can switch vga bios'es when in dos for the time being.
I've got fans ready to cool my mem and pwm but for now I gotta deal with stock llc and pwm speeds for the cpu pwm.
I don't wanna overheat it and have probs with that, like my previous ch4-f.

One more thing before i end my post here...
I was thinking about checking with my watt meter to see if higher straps use full power 24.7 or not.
It's just they don't idle the cpu voltage and that bothers the heck out of me...
Otherwise I'de be messing with it.


----------



## funkmetal

Hey guy's is it worth it to get a RIVE BE if half of my DIMM Slots on my RIVE dont detect in Windows 8 but detect in BIOS? I got the RIVE open box so I don't have a warranty on it. :/

Edit: Money is not an issue


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funkmetal*
> 
> Hey guy's is it worth it to get a RIVE BE if half of my DIMM Slots on my RIVE dont detect in Windows 8 but detect in BIOS? I got the RIVE open box so I don't have a warranty on it. :/
> 
> Edit: Money is not an issue


Go for it


----------



## boldenc

Could someone do this test please with 4930k and Windows 7?

Load optimized default settings with all the power saving features enabled, then change the multiplier to any thing higher than default to 42x ~ 46x.

Launch a game like BF3 or BF4 and monitor the CPU clock with CPU-Z, will the CPU clock go to the maximum multiplier you set in bios?

For example in my case you can see the CPU-Z is showing multiplier (12 - 44) but it will only go to 34x in the game. I can only get the 44x if I run prime95 or cinebench or XTU.
That with the power option is set to default balanced profile.
This is with the X79 Deluxe and I may change the motherboard to RIV BE so would like to confirm that before the change.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> One more thing before i end my post here...
> I was thinking about checking with my watt meter to see if higher straps use full power 24.7 or not.
> It's just they don't idle the cpu voltage and that bothers the heck out of me...
> Otherwise I'de be messing with it.


I don't think you need to be concerned... I'm not. After running SB-E for 2 years @ 125 x 36, and if anything, CPU got better, I don't worry about such things.

And yeah, listen, if PCH stays @ 100 MHz...and CPU runs @ 115 MHz...how often does clocks in each domain mesh properly? 125 divider DOWN to 115 would be easier...full blck is only available by divider, really. The Bluetooth module is relatively sensitive to BCLK adjust, too, so if you have that disabled, you can just enable it.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Sorry to open a old subject, but how is this new Bios 0507?? Still using the Factory one 0403 very stable and works well with my OC and settings!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So can the good members leave there comments and experiences with the 0507 so far!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanting to know if its really worth changing to the up dated one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.
> 
> 
> 
> I was using 0507 benching this weekend with the 4960X and it was rock stable, but I do know from experience that it has major issues with 3930K's. I heard beta 0601 is out there that fixes the SB-E issue.
Click to expand...

Not to bring up older post. But what are the issues with the 3930ks? Just asking because I run one on 0507 and haven't had any issues yet. Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

i dont either

and i am at 4.8


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Not to bring up older post. But what are the issues with the 3930ks? Just asking because I run one on 0507 and haven't had any issues yet. Thanks


Hell, i'm still on the launch bios with no issues, but from what iv'e read STRAP isn't working very well, a new bios should be coming 0601 i think it is, mostly for SB-E tuning.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Going to Microcenter tomorrow for the motherboard and cpu! Should start building tomorrow night and finish up this weekend. Can't wait I'm pumped!


----------



## Ajay57

Hey skupples my friend just finished up dating to 0507 working stable so far with no issues, just put back all my OC settings.

Will test and evaulate over the next few weeks or so and see what happens!!

CPU 4960X @ 4.8Mhz OC.

Everday OC @ 4.2 @ 1.195 Volts.

AJ.


----------



## Gunslinger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Not to bring up older post. But what are the issues with the 3930ks? Just asking because I run one on 0507 and haven't had any issues yet. Thanks


Straps were not working, and multiplier changes were hit and miss, mostly miss. I'd end up booting in at 12x multi (slow mode off) after setting what I wanted.


----------



## Ajay57

This could be a load of rubbish, but with this new Bios it allowed me to further tighten my ram timings today, could just be a coincidence!!

But every bit helps as they say!





Regards,

AJ.


----------



## VAL79

I too would like to join the Club! Just received mine for my new build!


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Not to bring up older post. But what are the issues with the 3930ks? Just asking because I run one on 0507 and haven't had any issues yet. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Hell, i'm still on the launch bios with no issues, but from what iv'e read STRAP isn't working very well, a new bios should be coming 0601 i think it is, mostly for SB-E tuning.
Click to expand...

Thats nice. Glad they still remember us SB-E owners. Question: Do you find you have to add alot more juice between 4.5 and 4.6? For example: I can run 4.5 @ 1.312v min -1.328v max but if i bump to 4.6 @ 1.344v min -1.360v max LLC @ high


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Thats nice. Glad they still remember us SB-E owners. Question: Do you find you have to add alot more juice between 4.5 and 4.6? For example: I can run 4.5 @ 1.312v min -1.328v max but if i bump to 4.6 @ 1.344v min -1.360v max LLC @ high


I'm running 4.9 @ 1.45 at the moment, could probably go lower if I took the time to get on the new bios, but i'm waiting for the 0601.


----------



## chimaychanga

why cant I bypass the CPU fan Error message now?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm running 4.9 @ 1.45 at the moment, could probably go lower if I took the time to get on the new bios, but i'm waiting for the 0601.


Is 1.45 safe? or just when you're gaming? Lucky you at least @ 5.0 I can't hit 4.6 lol..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> why cant I bypass the CPU fan Error message now?


If you just updated go back into your BIOS and set CPU fan to ignore.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VAL79*
> 
> I too would like to join the Club! Just received mine for my new build!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome!!!!

Wow I"m behind in adding, been so crazy irl w/ head-fi forums and learning the ins and outs of headphones etc. The Audio club here awakened my senses as an Audiophile lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Is 1.45 safe? or just when you're gaming? Lucky you at least @ 5.0 I can't hit 4.6 lol..
> If you just updated go back into your BIOS and set CPU fan to ignore.
> Welcome!!!!
> 
> Wow I"m behind in adding, been so crazy irl w/ head-fi forums and learning the ins and outs of headphones etc. The Audio club here awakened my senses as an Audiophile lol.


safe? probably not... It's a 3930k & i have insurance on it, so i'm not too worried.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> safe? probably not... It's a 3930k & i have insurance on it, so i'm not too worried.


ffff keep forgetting get my insurance claim...off to google the link.

Edit

Done purchased!

Ok officially debating again lol..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231523

or

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231722

ignore the fans.

@Cad what say u ? For gaming/streaming video which of these would perform better? Or pretty much the same


----------



## Kimir

I suppose money isn't an issue with either kit, get the 2400Mhz one.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> @Cad what say u ? For gaming/streaming video which of these would perform better? Or pretty much the same


3-5k MB/s difference max, or 5%-12% less bandwidth.

lowest latency = performance, since none of us are really gonna fill all that ram up, so bandwidth diff is not noticible, really...it's just the latency.

2133 MHz is easier on CPU..so I'd go with that. They look the same, so no sweat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I suppose money isn't an issue with either kit, get the 2400Mhz one.


That's like me thinking an 860W PSU would be enough for 4690X, this board, and 2x 780 Ti @ stock...but it wasn't. 2400 MHz is way too hard for most CPUs to push on 2400 divider, so either be ready to use BCLK, or get slower, for SKT2011 24/7.


----------



## Kimir

Really, 2400Mhz is still hard to get for Ivy-E? Oh wait, forgot we are talking about 64Gb of RAM and 8 stick, my bad.








isn't the R4BE got a EZ-plug for such amount of ram to help, like the RIVE?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Really, 2400Mhz is still hard to get for Ivy-E? Oh wait, forgot we are talking about 64Gb of RAM and 8 stick, my bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> isn't the R4BE got a EZ-plug for such amount of ram to help, like the RIVE?


Yeah, doesn't really need it...RIVBE is good at exposing CPU weakness, or strength.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 3-5k MB/s difference max, or 5%-12% less bandwidth.
> 
> lowest latency = performance, since none of us are really gonna fill all that ram up, so bandwidth diff is not noticible, really...it's just the latency.
> 
> 2133 MHz is easier on CPU..so I'd go with that. They look the same, so no sweat.
> That's like me thinking an 860W PSU would be enough for 4690X, this board, and 2x 780 Ti @ stock...but it wasn't. 2400 MHz is way too hard for most CPUs to push on 2400 divider, so either be ready to use BCLK, or get slower, for SKT2011 24/7.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, doesn't really need it...RIVBE is good at exposing CPU weakness, or strength.


Never heard of an EZ-PLUG but then again this is my 2nd Asus board ever ( been w/ gigabyte since 2009 ) since lower latency = performance I'll go w/ the 2133, as unless there's something that would require or boost / relieve some sort of bottleneck w/ that 5-12% increase ( gaming etc ) then I've honestly no need.

I don't get why I'm able to hit 4.5 easily on low voltage yet @ 1.5v I can't hit 4.6 I really think I have a weak cheap or something else.

As far as blck goes 125 is pretty much the only one I can go for correct? (With offset)


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> If you just updated go back into your BIOS and set CPU fan to ignore.


thought i did that already.. thanks man


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> *Never heard of an EZ-PLUG* but then again this is my 2nd Asus board ever ( been w/ gigabyte since 2009 ) since lower latency = performance I'll go w/ the 2133, as unless there's something that would require or boost / relieve some sort of bottleneck w/ that 5-12% increase ( gaming etc ) then I've honestly no need.
> 
> I don't get why I'm able to hit 4.5 easily on low voltage yet @ 1.5v I can't hit 4.6 I really think I have a weak cheap or something else.
> 
> As far as blck goes 125 is pretty much the only one I can go for correct? (With offset)


RIVBE has a 4-pin molex "EZ plug" at the bottom of the board for extra power for multiple GPUs.

RIVE has two "EZ plugs". One is a 6-pin PCI-e for multiple GPUs and the other is a 4-pin old floppy disk power plug (not very common in PSUs any more) to provide extra power to DIMMs.

*edit:*


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> RIVBE has a 4-pin molex "EZ plug" at the bottom of the board for extra power for multiple GPUs.
> 
> RIVE has two "EZ plugs". One is a 6-pin PCI-e for multiple GPUs and the other is a 4-pin old floppy disk power plug (not very common in PSUs any more) to provide extra power to DIMMs.


Oh thought it meant some type of switch, misread, I've had that plugged in since day one lol.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> As far as blck goes 125 is pretty much the only one I can go for correct? (With offset)


In an ideal world, you could buy the 2400 MHz 64 GB kit, plug it in, enable XMP, and everything would work fine. However, the pros and the board makers say it ain't so easy, so I gotta go with what they say.

I tried to get 64 GB kits, no one wanted to send me one, but given the cost, I kind of understand, but without having parts in-hand, there's not much I can say, really. Everyone says 2133 or lower is better, easier, more realistic, so that's all I can offer you. I'm actually sitting here thinking maybe 2133 is gonna be hard for you too, andthat you're better off with 1866 or 1600. 1600 should be about 45-50k, 1866 seems broken to me, honestly, 2133 MHz does 57-60k, 2400 does 62-65k.


----------



## mistacheese

Hello all, I have finished most of my build. I do have a question before I turn it on though. I have a pwm splitter for 3 upper fans, a second splitter for the 2 3 pin fans on the front rad and a 3 pin wire off of my d5. What headers on my RIVBE do I plug them in?

Splitter for the pwm fans on CPU Header?
Splitter for the 3 pin fans on CHA FAN?
3 pin wire for D5 pump on FAN OPT?

These are really guesses.

This is my first attempt at water-cooling, and my first RIVBE, thanks for the patience.

Mista Cheese


----------



## boldenc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boldenc*
> 
> Could someone do this test please with 4930k and Windows 7?
> 
> Load optimized default settings with all the power saving features enabled, then change the multiplier to any thing higher than default to 42x ~ 46x.
> 
> Launch a game like BF3 or BF4 and monitor the CPU clock with CPU-Z, will the CPU clock go to the maximum multiplier you set in bios?
> 
> For example in my case you can see the CPU-Z is showing multiplier (12 - 44) but it will only go to 34x in the game. I can only get the 44x if I run prime95 or cinebench or XTU.
> That with the power option is set to default balanced profile.
> This is with the X79 Deluxe and I may change the motherboard to RIV BE so would like to confirm that before the change.


any one?


----------



## Ajay57

What are you trying to do here????

1, Sounds like you have Intel Speed Step still set "ENABLED"

2, WHY run with your Cstates "ENABLED"?

I think you need to go and Overclock you motherboard properly or at least find a guide to help you do so!!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## boldenc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> What are you trying to do here????
> 
> 1, Sounds like you have Intel Speed Step still set "ENABLED"
> 
> 2, WHY run with your Cstates "ENABLED"?
> 
> I think you need to go and Overclock you motherboard properly or at least find a guide to help you do so!!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


I know well how to OC, and yes Speed Step is enabled because I like to keep the CPU at lower voltage/clock when idling.
Power saving features were never a problem with the last generation CPU's , even the new guides now recommend to enable the power saving features while OC'ing to save power , bills and more when the CPU idles specially for ppl who keep their PC's 24/7 on.

I asked some one to do the tests not just random info about OC so your post in not helpful.

any way Thanks


----------



## Ajay57

Sorry i asked the questions of you, just wonder why you ran your PC that way, anyway thanks for the answer!!

I hope someone comes along and assists you later.

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Need help! What would cause a click to come from motherboard when trying to load windows and then force it to restart and fail. I tried even reloading the win7 disk to do fresh install and it locks up and gives blue screen memory dump just loading filed. That can't be OS based. I tried looking at codes but it shows AA when it happens then it restarts. Please help. I had my system up and running water cooled both CPU and chip set. And ended up removing all tubing to rearrange positions of reservoir. Put all back together ran 4 hour stress test for water cooling with no moisture. Boots up to bios. I also added one more fan and added temperature sensors. Please I am so frustrated!


----------



## cadaveca

Driver problem. The click is the audio driver activating the relay in the audio circuit. My board says "AA" as I type this to you.

If you changed a setting in BIOS, and ASUS AI Suite is installed, it is possible the AI suite is causing the issue. Boot into safe mode and see if that works...if it does...check video driver and software-based tools, as that's what typically loads up after the audio driver.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boldenc*
> 
> any one?


Enable "maximum Performance" in OS power options.


----------



## Zimzoid

Why would one not use those power saving features these days?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Why would one not use those power saving features these days?


Simply because one desires performance instead.

To have power-saving features work properly, offset voltages and "per core" CPU options need to be enabled. You cannot push these CPUs to the limit under those conditions, so as a user you've got to decide which works best for you.

For me, the difference in idle power consumption is only 10-15 W.


----------



## Ajay57

Well the way i do my set up here cadaveca is simple, i have 2 different overclocks saved to the Bios Profiles!!

1, Is my everyday Web Browsing set up, Low Voltage easy OC!

2, Is my Benching OC as and when i feel like kicking some Vcore out of this CPU!!

So with one click of a mouse or Key pad i can easily choose which one, and i can tell you it makes life much easier!

The Moral of this story is use your Bios Profiles that what ASUS put them there for!!

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Well the way i do my set up here cadaveca is simple, i have 2 different overclocks saved to the Bios Profiles!!
> 
> 1, Is my everyday Web Browsing set up, Low Voltage easy OC!
> 
> 2, Is my Benching OC as and when i feel like kicking some Vcore out of this CPU!!
> 
> So with one click of a mouse or Key pad i can easily choose which one, and i can tell you it makes life much easier!
> 
> *The Moral of this story is use your Bios Profiles that what ASUS put them there for!!*
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


You mean custom ones you make right? As I wouldn't trust the Asus bios profiles ever since it sets HIGH voltage when you could be using much less, the profiles don't seem to be catered to CPU life, that's for sure.

@Cad gonna pull the trigger, just wanted to ask one more thing, do you think if I got the 2400 RipJaws and set them to 2133 I'd be able to match the timings to the 2133 set w/o issues? Or would it be safer to just go w/ 2133 overall. I just want to ensure that I"m not gonna miss out on anything other than benchmarks ( which I've no care for )


----------



## tvelander

Now my new BUILD is sooon starting


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Driver problem. The click is the audio driver activating the relay in the audio circuit. My board says "AA" as I type this to you.
> 
> If you changed a setting in BIOS, and ASUS AI Suite is installed, it is possible the AI suite is causing the issue. Boot into safe mode and see if that works...if it does...check video driver and software-based tools, as that's what typically loads up after the audio driver.
> Enable "maximum Performance" in OS power options.


The click I was referring too was not an audio click coming from speakers or headphones. I don't have any of that setup. A physical click is what I heard. Do you think thatbis what it is?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> The click I was referring too was not an audio click coming from speakers or headphones. I don't have any of that setup. A physical click is what I heard. Do you think thatbis what it is?


Lots and lots of discussion has taken place in this topic about the click(s) at startup. Just go back through these search results and read some of the posts about it ...

=1444356&newer=1&output=posts&resultSortingPreference=recency&sdate=0&search=click&type=all&start=25]http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?advanced=1&byuser=&containingthread[0]=1444356&newer=1&output=posts&resultSortingPreference=recency&sdate=0&search=click&type=all&start=25


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> The click I was referring too was not an audio click coming from speakers or headphones. I don't have any of that setup. A physical click is what I heard. Do you think thatbis what it is?


Yes, that's what it is. It is a physical relay - the white "NFC" box in the audio circuit is a physical relay that is responsible for that click.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> @Cad gonna pull the trigger, just wanted to ask one more thing, do you think if I got the 2400 RipJaws and set them to 2133 I'd be able to match the timings to the 2133 set w/o issues? Or would it be safer to just go w/ 2133 overall. I just want to ensure that I"m not gonna miss out on anything other than benchmarks ( which I've no care for )


yap, as long as CPU is capable. Although, I have to say, having the XMP profile for the speed you want is going to make the tertiary timings work for you..otherwise you'd be doing it manually or relying on the automatic profiling.

Some of these G.Skill sets have SPD for both 2133/2400, if they are older SB-E X79 stock, FYI.

Also, got word back from G.Skill this morning about the ICs and what we were talking about earlier about the MFR sticks, and as expected, no info was given.


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Lots and lots of discussion has taken place in this topic about the click(s) at startup. Just go back through these search results and read some of the posts about it ...
> 
> =1444356&newer=1&output=posts&resultSortingPreference=recency&sdate=0&search=click&type=all&start=25]http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?advanced=1&byuser=&containingthread[0]=1444356&newer=1&output=posts&resultSortingPreference=recency&sdate=0&search=click&type=all&start=25


OK. Just real strange why I couldn't even boot up to win 7 disk like I did before and do a fresh install. The moment it got to win 7 install logo it froze and blue screened. Will try what you guys suggested.


----------



## mistacheese

Help please. I finished my build this afternoon, hit power, and my everything acts like it's starting up for 2-3 seconds, but immediately shuts down and starts over. I get no beeps, or codes in the top corner and can't get to bios. Any thoughts?

It was suggested to remove my ram and force an error, that didn't work either, same few seconds where all fans and pump fire up, but then it all shuts down and restarts.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistacheese*
> 
> Help please. I finished my build this afternoon, hit power, and my everything acts like it's starting up for 2-3 seconds, but immediately shuts down and starts over. I get no beeps, or codes in the top corner and can't get to bios. Any thoughts?
> 
> It was suggested to remove my ram and force an error, that didn't work either, same few seconds where all fans and pump fire up, but then it all shuts down and restarts.


hold down the "START" button for 5 seconds. Then hold MemOK! button for 5 seconds, and while still pressed, hit the power button. MemOK! should blink, board should boot up and shut down itself a few times, provided there is not something else wrong.

Failing that...

Ensure that ram is installed in proper slots, no case shorts, and CPU is mounted properly. Plug fan into CPU header.


----------



## Ajay57

Yeah sorry i forgot to say these Bios Profiles where made by myself not Asus, so they would count as Custom made!!

I hope that puts things right with the members who are looking into this Great Thread.

Respectfully,

AJ.

Your 100% correct Luna!


----------



## mistacheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> hold down the "START" button for 5 seconds. Then hold MemOK! button for 5 seconds, and while still pressed, hit the power button. MemOK! should blink, board should boot up and shut down itself a few times, provided there is not something else wrong.
> 
> Failing that...
> 
> Ensure that ram is installed in proper slots, no case shorts, and CPU is mounted properly. Plug fan into CPU header.


Thank you, that didn't do it unfortunately. I tried unplugging power to graphics cards also, still no post. I did discover I have a "CPU LED" light on beside atx power in. Related?


----------



## mistacheese

Seem I may have a CPU problem after researching the light. Thanks guys.


----------



## Ajay57

I hope that is not pointing towards some Bent pins in the CPU SOCKET!!! As you are a where these levers have to go down in the correct order, else there is a chance of damage.

AJ.


----------



## mistacheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I hope that is not pointing towards some Bent pins in the CPU SOCKET!!! As you are a where these levers have to go down in the correct order, else there is a chance of damage.
> 
> AJ.


AJ, thank you. I realize how important the lever arm is, and to be grounded well. I just removed it and verified no bent pins or anything obvious. I found a few searches indicating that this is the same light I would get with an improper bios version as ibe is supported out of the box. How do I update bios, if I can't get to bios screen?

I have the latest bios downloaded to a USB flash drive (format under properties just says FAT) and it is the inky thing on the drive. I renamed it R4BE.cap. I can't seem to get computer to get to a point that would let me update it though.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yes, that's what it is. It is a physical relay - the white "NFC" box in the audio circuit is a physical relay that is responsible for that click.
> yap, as long as CPU is capable. Although, I have to say, having the XMP profile for the speed you want is going to make the tertiary timings work for you..otherwise you'd be doing it manually or relying on the automatic profiling.
> 
> Some of these G.Skill sets have SPD for both 2133/2400, if they are older SB-E X79 stock, FYI.
> 
> Also, got word back from G.Skill this morning about the ICs and what we were talking about earlier about the MFR sticks, and as expected, no info was given.


I'll shoot them an email and ask.


----------



## funkmetal

Does anyone here know if the RIVBE has enough space for a H110 in Push-Pull in a Corsair 750D? I couldnt get a reply from the Obsidian Owners Club. The RIVE doesn't have enough space to mount all 4 fans, just 3 (2 above and 1 below the rad)


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funkmetal*
> 
> Does anyone here know if the RIVBE has enough space for a H110 in Push-Pull in a Corsair 750D? I couldnt get a reply from the Obsidian Owners Club. The RIVE doesn't have enough space to mount all 4 fans, just 3 (2 above and 1 below the rad)


If it fits it will be a close fit, you can always just use 2 fans if it doesn't fit.

Not sure what you mean by connecting the fans, but if the cables aren't long enough you can either get extensions I me then longer by soldering a few more inches in the center.


----------



## funkmetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> If it fits it will be a close fit, you can always just use 2 fans if it doesn't fit.
> 
> Not sure what you mean by connecting the fans, but if the cables aren't long enough you can either get extensions I me then longer by soldering a few more inches in the center.


Sorry, what I meant was there wasn't enough room to mount the fan, the connections are fine


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> Need help! What would cause a click to come from motherboard when trying to load windows and then force it to restart and fail. I tried even reloading the win7 disk to do fresh install and it locks up and gives blue screen memory dump just loading filed. That can't be OS based. I tried looking at codes but it shows AA when it happens then it restarts. Please help. I had my system up and running water cooled both CPU and chip set. And ended up removing all tubing to rearrange positions of reservoir. Put all back together ran 4 hour stress test for water cooling with no moisture. Boots up to bios. I also added one more fan and added temperature sensors. Please I am so frustrated!


Ok. Figured out was was the original issue. Before I changed the water cooling setup I had my MB overclocked using the Water Cooling Profile. So it stopped functioning. Reset motherboard and ended up reinstalling windows just to be safe. Reinstalled fine thankfully but proceeded to reinstall software and such. I then rebooted and wanted to make sure my OC panel was displaying the rpms of one of the fans so I disconnected and moved it to the CPU fan connection cause the others were too short. Saved that and ran the water cooling profile. Same issue started again. I reset BIOS and it booted up fine. I thought it was the physical addition of the CPU fan but that wasnt the case. Running the watercooling profile is causing it to crash. If it ran before but now its not allowing to be ran. Perhaps in the installation and reconfiguration of the pipes and reservoirs might I have moved the cpu block so their isnt a solid thermal surface for the CPU? Any ideas? I am typing this is on the computer just not overclocked. I am curious what would happen if I push the turbo button on the OC panel.

On a side note I was going to research but since I have your attention. If I add extra fans on the OC panel would that require me to leave the cover of it off? And will the AI Suite 3 be capable to controlling those fans? Thanks for all your help fellas.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funkmetal*
> 
> Sorry, what I meant was there wasn't enough room to mount the fan, the connections are fine


Looks like push/pull won't fit. This is just me eyeballing different set ups. You should be perfectly fine in with just a set of fans in either push or pull. The cases that do fit an h110 in push-pull are going to be to big.

My rig looked silly on my 900D, when I had an h100i. I remember trying push pull, but it really didn't help my temps more than 2C at most. Not to mention the extra noise.


----------



## funkmetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Looks like push/pull won't fit. This is just me eyeballing different set ups. You should be perfectly fine in with just a set of fans in either push or pull. The cases that do fit an h110 in push-pull are going to be to big.
> 
> My rig looked silly on my 900D, when I had an h100i. I remember trying push pull, but it really didn't help my temps more than 2C at most. Not to mention the extra noise.


Ah ok, so what would you recommend, Push or Pull? Ive heard Pull is better temp wise, but push is quieter? Thoughts?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funkmetal*
> 
> Ah ok, so what would you recommend, Push or Pull? Ive heard Pull is better temp wise, but push is quieter? Thoughts?


You can do push I side the case, that will give you positive pressure inside the case, so less unfiltered air gets inside the case.

You can do push exhausting, but you need to make sure, you have filtered air coming in, otherwise dust will become a problem.

I'm doing push on one rad and pull on the other, the one with push seems to get me better temps, but then again my CPU runs hotter, than my GPU.

You really can't go wrong, but just try to keep the positive air thing in mind.


----------



## Kimir

Yes, push. Pull is not often use alone, more used in P/P.
After, some will say you should take the fan as intake, grabbing cold air from outside, into the rad. Or you can set it to exhaust the hot air from inside the case, like I do (because I've tested both and temperature were not different at all. Certainly because of my other fan configuration in the case as well as hot air rises).


----------



## funkmetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes, push. Pull is not often use alone, more used in P/P.
> After, some will say you should take the fan as intake, grabbing cold air from outside, into the rad. Or you can set it to exhaust the hot air from inside the case, like I do (because I've tested both and temperature were not different at all. Certainly because of my other fan configuration in the case as well as hot air rises).


Yeah, I think I will do Push with it pushing the hot air out of the case. My 780Tis while not throttling, the first one is pegged at ~82-83C and the 2nd is usually around 70-75C. So with this setup, the fans should be on the bottom of the radiator pushing through it and out of the case


----------



## qcktthfm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funkmetal*
> 
> Does anyone here know if the RIVBE has enough space for a H110 in Push-Pull in a Corsair 750D? I couldnt get a reply from the Obsidian Owners Club. The RIVE doesn't have enough space to mount all 4 fans, just 3 (2 above and 1 below the rad)


I have H100 push/pull with cosmos 2, but still have the same very tight fit with this mb.
Which is the big I/O shroud, the top 4pin & 8 pin plugs.
The 4th fan gotta be creative, mine place in an angle, with only 1 screw & zip tied.


Sorry not with 750D, but hope it helps.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> Straps were not working, and multiplier changes were hit and miss, mostly miss. I'd end up booting in at 12x multi (slow mode off) after setting what I wanted.


Had exactly the same problems and sold the 3930K. Thought I was going a little bonkers with most acting like they had no issues. Thanks for the confirmation!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boldenc*
> 
> any one?


_Load optimized default settings with all the power saving features enabled, then change the multiplier to any thing higher than default to 42x ~ 46x._

that's probably doomed to problems above a certain multiplier - no control vcore ceiling with everything on auto. You need to change some setting (c1e off, manual OC, for instance) and add offset vcore and turbo on auto (as default - bad) or enabled and set a ceiling for the additional turbo mV.

see: http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/640#post_21674429


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Driver problem. The click is the audio driver activating the relay in the audio circuit. My board says "AA" as I type this to you.
> 
> If you changed a setting in BIOS, and ASUS AI Suite is installed, it is possible the AI suite is causing the issue. Boot into safe mode and see if that works...if it does...check video driver and software-based tools, as that's what typically loads up after the audio driver.
> Enable "maximum Performance" in OS power options.
> 
> 
> 
> The click I was referring too was not an audio click coming from speakers or headphones. I don't have any of that setup. A physical click is what I heard. Do you think thatbis what it is?
Click to expand...

it is the relay, to explain what a relay is- think of a light switch, instead of you turning it on it uses a magnet and pulls the switch down, when the magnet ( electromagnet ) shuts off it shuts off again.

the click you hear is the magnet pulling the switch closed ( or the switch opening ) ! hope this helps !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Lots and lots of discussion has taken place in this topic about the click(s) at startup. Just go back through these search results and read some of the posts about it ...
> 
> =1444356&newer=1&output=posts&resultSortingPreference=recency&sdate=0&search=click&type=all&start=25]http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?advanced=1&byuser=&containingthread[0]=1444356&newer=1&output=posts&resultSortingPreference=recency&sdate=0&search=click&type=all&start=25
> 
> 
> 
> OK. Just real strange why I couldn't even boot up to win 7 disk like I did before and do a fresh install. The moment it got to win 7 install logo it froze and blue screened. Will try what you guys suggested.
Click to expand...

are you installing windows at stock or with an oc ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistacheese*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I hope that is not pointing towards some Bent pins in the CPU SOCKET!!! As you are a where these levers have to go down in the correct order, else there is a chance of damage.
> 
> AJ.
> 
> 
> 
> AJ, thank you. I realize how important the lever arm is, and to be grounded well. I just removed it and verified no bent pins or anything obvious. I found a few searches indicating that this is the same light I would get with an improper bios version as ibe is supported out of the box. How do I update bios, if I can't get to bios screen?
> 
> I have the latest bios downloaded to a USB flash drive (format under properties just says FAT) and it is the inky thing on the drive. I renamed it R4BE.cap. I can't seem to get computer to get to a point that would let me update it though.
Click to expand...

insert it into the correct port (see pic ) and press the bios flashback (rog connect) button till it starts flashing



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes, push. Pull is not often use alone, more used in P/P.
> After, some will say you should take the fan as intake, grabbing cold air from outside, into the rad. Or you can set it to exhaust the hot air from inside the case, like I do (because I've tested both and temperature were not different at all. Certainly because of my other fan configuration in the case as well as hot air rises).


pull or push make very very little difference at all ! the only reason pull is better is it is easier to clean the rad VS push.

also people need to stop spreading the lie that in PC case hot air rises, guys it does not UNLESS you are using a 100% passive cooling solution. or you have so little airflow in your case you need to throw your pc out as you should just buy a premade pc !~

hot air in pcs go where you push it with a fan. period
your fan even at its lowest setting will overcome the fact that heat rises. every single time, even at its lowest setting !


----------



## yttocstfarc

There it is! Picked it up from microcenter yesterday! Got it built last night ill post some pictures this weekend. Build went together perfectly! No problems as of yet. Thanks for all your guys help i am definitely glad I picked this motherboard!



Luna Can u add me to the Club please.


----------



## Mega Man

congrats and welcome !~


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> Ok. Figured out was was the original issue. Before I changed the water cooling setup I had my MB overclocked using the Water Cooling Profile. So it stopped functioning. Reset motherboard and ended up reinstalling windows just to be safe. Reinstalled fine thankfully but proceeded to reinstall software and such. I then rebooted and wanted to make sure my OC panel was displaying the rpms of one of the fans so I disconnected and moved it to the CPU fan connection cause the others were too short. Saved that and ran the water cooling profile. Same issue started again. I reset BIOS and it booted up fine. I thought it was the physical addition of the CPU fan but that wasnt the case. Running the watercooling profile is causing it to crash. If it ran before but now its not allowing to be ran. Perhaps in the installation and reconfiguration of the pipes and reservoirs might I have moved the cpu block so their isnt a solid thermal surface for the CPU? Any ideas? I am typing this is on the computer just not overclocked. I am curious what would happen if I push the turbo button on the OC panel.
> 
> On a side note I was going to research but since I have your attention. If I add extra fans on the OC panel would that require me to leave the cover of it off? And will the AI Suite 3 be capable to controlling those fans? Thanks for all your help fellas.


Any ideas. I have been messing with the UEFI settings and realized when I decided to use the Overclocked profile it re-enabled the secure boot which I had disabled when I first installed. Yet it continued to work until I did the reconfig of the hardware. I did a fresh install (again) and with installing any drivers or anything just tried enabling the overclocked profile for water cooling. Gave me blue screen as soon as I got just past the windows 7 loading screen. Any ideas? I can live without overclocking. Kind of defeats the purpose though buying all this heavy duty equipment. I was also reading its possible the MB might be defective since it cant overclock anymore. Could it be that since my case doesnt have a screw for the center of the motherboard other than a little ball....then when I had to move the cast around to fill in the water for all the piping that it might have bent more than it should have??? Please help.......anybody..


----------



## kpoeticg

Anybody familiar with the Asmedia controllers that can tell me if it's worth putting a 4TB WD Black on a SataIII Asmedia Port with 2 SSD's in Raid0 on the Intel Ports? Or should i put it on a SataII Intel Port, or just put 1 SSD & the WD Black on the 2 good ports?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> Ok. Figured out was was the original issue. Before I changed the water cooling setup I had my MB overclocked using the Water Cooling Profile. So it stopped functioning. Reset motherboard and ended up reinstalling windows just to be safe. Reinstalled fine thankfully but proceeded to reinstall software and such. I then rebooted and wanted to make sure my OC panel was displaying the rpms of one of the fans so I disconnected and moved it to the CPU fan connection cause the others were too short. Saved that and ran the water cooling profile. Same issue started again. I reset BIOS and it booted up fine. I thought it was the physical addition of the CPU fan but that wasnt the case. Running the watercooling profile is causing it to crash. If it ran before but now its not allowing to be ran. Perhaps in the installation and reconfiguration of the pipes and reservoirs might I have moved the cpu block so their isnt a solid thermal surface for the CPU? Any ideas? I am typing this is on the computer just not overclocked. I am curious what would happen if I push the turbo button on the OC panel.
> 
> On a side note I was going to research but since I have your attention. If I add extra fans on the OC panel would that require me to leave the cover of it off? And will the AI Suite 3 be capable to controlling those fans? Thanks for all your help fellas.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas. I have been messing with the UEFI settings and realized when I decided to use the Overclocked profile it re-enabled the secure boot which I had disabled when I first installed. Yet it continued to work until I did the reconfig of the hardware. I did a fresh install (again) and with installing any drivers or anything just tried enabling the overclocked profile for water cooling. Gave me blue screen as soon as I got just past the windows 7 loading screen. Any ideas? I can live without overclocking. Kind of defeats the purpose though buying all this heavy duty equipment. I was also reading its possible the MB might be defective since it cant overclock anymore. Could it be that since my case doesnt have a screw for the center of the motherboard other than a little ball....then when I had to move the cast around to fill in the water for all the piping that it might have bent more than it should have??? Please help.......anybody..
Click to expand...

no it should not be, the post you speak of should be fine. as to why, idk sorry


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Anybody familiar with the Asmedia controllers that can tell me if it's worth putting a 4TB WD Black on a SataIII Asmedia Port with 2 SSD's in Raid0 on the Intel Ports? Or should i put it on a SataII Intel Port, or just put 1 SSD & the WD Black on the 2 good ports?


To piggy back off his request I also want to know that if it matters which SATA my SSD and 2TB drive are plugged into?


----------



## kpoeticg

SSD's should generally be plugged into the Intel SataIII ports (assuming the SSD's are SataIII)

I'm mostly curious about the WD Black. If it's worth sacrificing one of the 2 good ports or if the Asmedia port will be fine for it. Haven't used any of the Asmedia ports yet personally.


----------



## USFORCES

Still working on the all black thing


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> Any ideas. I have been messing with the UEFI settings and realized when I decided to use the Overclocked profile it re-enabled the secure boot which I had disabled when I first installed. Yet it continued to work until I did the reconfig of the hardware. I did a fresh install (again) and with installing any drivers or anything just tried enabling the overclocked profile for water cooling. Gave me blue screen as soon as I got just past the windows 7 loading screen. Any ideas? I can live without overclocking. Kind of defeats the purpose though buying all this heavy duty equipment. I was also reading its possible the MB might be defective since it cant overclock anymore. Could it be that since my case doesnt have a screw for the center of the motherboard other than a little ball....then when I had to move the cast around to fill in the water for all the piping that it might have bent more than it should have??? Please help.......anybody..


I just flashed to the latest BIOS from Jan and selected water cooling o/c profile and still restarts just after Windows loading screen. Has anybody here attempted to use the existing profiles for overclocking or have you guys just done it manually?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> I just flashed to the latest BIOS from Jan and selected water cooling o/c profile and still restarts just after Windows loading screen. Has anybody here attempted to use the existing profiles for overclocking or have you guys just done it manually?


Profiles are whacked. 1.5V on air profile?

LAWLS.

Start from scratch. Reset CMOS, load optimized defaults, enable XMP, go from there.









Chances are, you'll drop voltage from what the profiles set, or you got a crap chip. It sets them high enough to cause errors when ram clocking, even, at times.


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Profiles are whacked. 1.5V on air profile?
> 
> LAWLS.
> 
> Start from scratch. Reset CMOS, load optimized defaults, enable XMP, go from there.


well thats another thing.....i went all through the manual.....where the hell is the CMOS reset?

Also is their a guide on the forums on proper settings for overclocking?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Profiles are whacked. 1.5V on air profile?
> 
> LAWLS.
> 
> Start from scratch. Reset CMOS, load optimized defaults, enable XMP, go from there.


I've used the profiles, but with xmp and lower voltage for a 4.5 oc. It was pretty stable.


----------



## kpoeticg

Cmos reset is lit up green in the IO Panel on the back of your chassis. The little reset symbol under the 2 USB ports


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> well thats another thing.....i went all through the manual.....where the hell is the CMOS reset?
> 
> Also is their a guide on the forums on proper settings for overclocking?


On the back panel, between the upper two USB plug pairs. It's lights up green, has an round "arrow" on it.

There are guides, but none specific for this board. You can check my posts for ideas for this board specifically, but what ram you use if going to affect whether what I've posted relates or not.


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> On the back panel, between the upper two USB plug pairs. It's lights up green, has an round "arrow" on it.
> 
> There are guides, but none specific for this board. You can check my posts for ideas for this board specifically, but what ram you use if going to affect whether what I've posted relates or not.


Corsair dominator 16gb 8x2
CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 Desktop Memory


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> Corsair dominator 16gb 8x2
> CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 Desktop Memory


Only two sticks?

Should be a piece of cake. Enable XMP.

1.25V CPU
1.05 V VTT
0.950V VCCSA

Add multi and CPU voltage as needed.







Take two beers, test, and talk to me in the morning.


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Only two sticks?
> 
> Should be a piece of cake. Enable XMP.
> 
> 1.25V CPU
> 1.05 V VTT
> 0.950V VCCSA
> 
> Add multi and CPU voltage as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take two beers, test, and talk to me in the morning.


Sorry I really do appreciate you helping me but "add multi and CPU voltage"? its been a real long time since i have done any overclocking.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> Sorry I really do appreciate you helping me but "add multi and CPU voltage"? its been a real long time since i have done any overclocking.


CPU multi you can set easily...should be pretty obvious. One you enable XMP it set it so all cores stay in [email protected] 40...find the 40, adjust up or down

Cpu voltage is a little bit lower down the menu.but for the basics..yeah, there's guides for that, linked back a few pages in this thread. OR 10 pages..hard to keep track.







.

Let me put it to you this way. This board is really meant for advanced users ,that will tweak everything manually. there are automatic profiles, but the voltages offered are programmed for compatibility and benchmarking, rather than for long-term stability and daily use. They (ASUS) expect you to use the very best parts.

It's just as capable at both

The board provides tonnes of monitoring information, voltages, etc, so spend some time with the provided software tools, learn what your stock voltages are, and set them manually, but really, you should only have to adjust those few things I mentioned in that post above for daily use. If you want to benchmark...2 GB PSC and 4 GB Samsung are the best, and there are tonnes of timing profiles for both that work great. 8 GB sticks don't have timing profiles yet.


----------



## kpoeticg

This should get you started with the basics on IB-E

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Guide-Easy-Overclocking-with-Ivy-Bridge-E-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hard2Ki11*
> 
> Ok. Figured out was was the original issue. Before I changed the water cooling setup I had my MB overclocked using the Water Cooling Profile. So it stopped functioning. Reset motherboard and ended up reinstalling windows just to be safe. Reinstalled fine thankfully but proceeded to reinstall software and such. I then rebooted and wanted to make sure my OC panel was displaying the rpms of one of the fans so I disconnected and moved it to the CPU fan connection cause the others were too short. Saved that and ran the water cooling profile. Same issue started again. I reset BIOS and it booted up fine. I thought it was the physical addition of the CPU fan but that wasnt the case. Running the watercooling profile is causing it to crash. If it ran before but now its not allowing to be ran. Perhaps in the installation and reconfiguration of the pipes and reservoirs might I have moved the cpu block so their isnt a solid thermal surface for the CPU? Any ideas? I am typing this is on the computer just not overclocked. I am curious what would happen if I push the turbo button on the OC panel.
> 
> On a side note I was going to research but since I have your attention. If I add extra fans on the OC panel would that require me to leave the cover of it off? And will the AI Suite 3 be capable to controlling those fans? Thanks for all your help fellas.


Does this make sense? The reason why perhaps my OS has been restarting after Windows loading logo is because I had my SSD plugged into the ASMEDIA controller instead of Intel???


----------



## Mega Man

if my understanding of intel ocing has come along it could if you oc by blk, the as media controller could go through that


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

The third and hopefully the last chip that gets installed on my board. I can smell 5.0ghz


----------



## kpoeticg

If you can smell it, then you need to lower the voltage


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if my understanding of intel ocing has come along it could if you oc by blk, the as media controller could go through that


I asked earlier which controller should the SSD be under they said Intel not asmedia. So I am wondering if having the primary OS installed on a SSD connected to asmedia controller instead of Intel?


----------



## kpoeticg

Your OS drive should be connected to an Intel Port. The Intel Ports are built into the chipset


----------



## Hard2Ki11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Your OS drive should be connected to an Intel Port. The Intel Ports are built into the chipset


Awesome I hope this fixes the issue. Any suggestions on including fans on the OC Panel directly. Is it advised against or is it ok to use? I have it mounted newbie style within the case. Not sure if I just remove the cover and plug the fans in and just leave it open like that. And does AI Suite 3 monitor those?


----------



## kpoeticg

I use an Aquaero to control all my cooling. Cooling is a whole other topic









I personally have no use for including fan control in my overclocks. You might depending on your setup...


----------



## Mulle1991

Hello all









The money is not an issue so dont think about that and dont give me some stupid comments about that









Witch cpu should i go for?
4930k or 4960x ?

is 4960x worth it or what?
because when comparing the two cpu's its not much performance to get for the money?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hello all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The money is not an issue so dont think about that and dont give me some stupid comments about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Witch cpu should i go for?
> 4930k or 4960x ?
> 
> is 4960x worth it or what?
> because when comparing the two cpu's its not much performance to get for the money?


you have the answer in your question.
"The money is not an issue" so get the 4960x, for me it's not worth 400€ more in terms of performance. And if you want to bin for a better CPU, the 4930k will be easier to resell I believe.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> you have the answer in your question.
> "The money is not an issue" so get the 4960x, for me it's not worth 400€ more in terms of performance. And if you want to bin for a better CPU, the 4930k will be easier to resell I believe.


i realy dont know witch one to chose, because the 400€ can be used for a lot other stuff


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> i realy dont know witch one to chose, because the 400€ can be used for a lot other stuff


For me it's "no questions asked" the 4930k, and that's what I did. With the price difference you can get better RAM for example (hopping your IMC support it). Or half of an insanely good Caselabs.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> For me it's "no questions asked" the 4930k, and that's what I did. With the price difference you can get better RAM for example (hopping your IMC support it). Or half of an insanely good Caselabs.


allready got 32gb TridentX 2400Mhz








Maybe just go with the 4930K and but somthing els also


----------



## USFORCES

4960X


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 4960X


well why?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hello all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The money is not an issue so dont think about that and dont give me some stupid comments about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Witch cpu should i go for?
> 4930k or 4960x ?
> 
> is 4960x worth it or what?
> because when comparing the two cpu's its not much performance to get for the money?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> you have the answer in your question.
> "The money is not an issue" so get the 4960x, for me it's not worth 400€ more in terms of performance. And if you want to bin for a better CPU, the 4930k will be easier to resell I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> i realy dont know witch one to chose, because the 400€ can be used for a lot other stuff
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> 4960X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well why?
Click to expand...

This is one of those questions where, if you have to ask, then the 4960 is not the one for you.

4960's are supposedly on wafers from close to the center of the crystal.

Generally, that would give them a better statistical chance of being better clockers at lower voltages.

You can't take that for granted though, . . . . .

It just maybe gains you a bit of advantage in the silicon lottery.

Even if they do have a little bit of an edge, it still doesn't do much good until you're experienced and knowledgeable enough to be able to make use of it.

For most guys, it's all about e-peen and bragging rights.

About the only place you'll ever see an advantage is in some benchies. . . . . It certainly won't perceptibly change how your games play.

Get the 4930, learn all about how to clock it and maximize its potential, then . . . . if you want to go thru all that again, for a couple more percent of performance gain in a few limited areas, sell it and buy a 4960, or whatever is the e-peen symbol at that time.

Putting the $400 towards something you use all the time or need to improve seems a better purpose . . .

Another GPU, a hi-res or 4K monitor maybe . . .

Darlene


----------



## Neo Zuko

ahhhh, here is the motherboard I would have purchased if I was not waiting for the Asus Rampage V Extreme (Haswell Extreme).


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is one of those questions where, if you have to ask, then the 4960 is not the one for you.
> 
> 4960's are supposedly on wafers from close to the center of the crystal.
> 
> Generally, that would give them a better statistical chance of being better clockers at lower voltages.
> 
> You can't take that for granted though, . . . . .
> 
> It just maybe gains you a bit of advantage in the silicon lottery.
> 
> Even if they do have a little bit of an edge, it still doesn't do much good until you're experienced and knowledgeable enough to be able to make use of it.
> 
> For most guys, it's all about e-peen and bragging rights.
> 
> About the only place you'll ever see an advantage is in some benchies. . . . . It certainly won't perceptibly change how your games play.
> 
> Get the 4930, learn all about how to clock it and maximize its potential, then . . . . if you want to go thru all that again, for a couple more percent of performance gain in a few limited areas, sell it and buy a 4960, or whatever is the e-peen symbol at that time.
> 
> Putting the $400 towards something you use all the time or need to improve seems a better purpose . . .
> 
> Another GPU, a hi-res or 4K monitor maybe . . .
> 
> Darlene


realy dont understand what you are tryind to say, Already got an 3960x, so i wanna know if is worth to buy 4960x over the 4930k.

And then you say the 4960x isent the right one for me?

its a question, Anwser it or dont comment this.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> realy dont understand what you are tryind to say, Already got an 3960x, so i wanna know if is worth to buy 4960x over the 4930k.
> 
> And then you say the 4960x isent the right one for me?
> 
> its a question, Anwser it or dont comment this.


You have a 3960x?

A 4930k and 4960x is not an upgrade. Wait for Haswell-E.


----------



## kpoeticg

She gave you the correct answer

The 4960x costs as much as 2x4930k's for a SLIGHTLY better chip. Either you absolutely must have the best cpu on the market and are willing fork up as much as they ask you to, or you're better off going with the 4930k, just like the SB-E generation

The X's are NEVER EVER EVER 500 bux worth of a better CPU than the K. If the 500 bux doesn't matter to you, then the X is the right choice. If you're looking for a priceerformance ratio than the 4930k without question


----------



## Jpmboy

hey forces - how long did you keep that 4960X at 1.488V? R15?


----------



## Kimir

Darlene is right, I forgot that but;
If you have to ask yourself if it's worth it, then it's probably not. Otherwise you would have found an excuse to go for it.









And you already have a 3960x on would like to upgrade to either a 4930k or 4960x? Not worth it at all, it's like going from a 3960x to 3970x lol.









I got myself a 4930k because I'm making a new rig, couldn't wait for haswell-e with my 2x780Ti sitting on my desk lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i woulda probly waited for Haswell-E too if i wasn't in desperate need of a new PC.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> You have a 3960x?
> 
> A 4930k and 4960x is not an upgrade. Wait for Haswell-E.


This^^^

if that's a good 3960X (5.2GHz or so) keep it.

I went for a 4960X (it is a good chip, luckily) after trying 2 4930Ks... but still think I "shoulda/coulda" picked up a 3970X for $700 *here*

Hey Diva - did you get that cooling contraption working and is it still in use?


----------



## kpoeticg

Did anybody ever respond to whether it's worth buying a 4TB WD Black and running it off one of the Asmedia SataIII ports?


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> hey forces - how long did you keep that 4960X at 1.488V? R15?


As long as the test took, it was at 5c when I did it.


----------



## mistacheese

Hey all, having issues with startup, asus has asked me to verify that the 4 pine plug is attached. I don't recall seeing anything about that in the manual, but I'm not near it or the PC right now. What is the 4 pin ez plug, and would not having it plugged in cause the mobo to not boot to bios? Even with CPU removed it won't boot.

Stumped.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistacheese*
> 
> Hey all, having issues with startup, asus has asked me to verify that the 4 pine plug is attached. I don't recall seeing anything about that in the manual, but I'm not near it or the PC right now. What is the 4 pin ez plug, and would not having it plugged in cause the mobo to not boot to bios? Even with CPU removed it won't boot.
> 
> Stumped.


4 pin EZ? you mean the 4 pin EP (p4) cpu power plug? Or the 4-pin molex for pcie power?


----------



## alancsalt

On a RIVE the EZ plug is a floppy drive type plug for extra memory voltage (?) next to a supplementary 6 pin plug for PCIe.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> On a RIVE the EZ plug is a floppy drive type plug for extra memory voltage (?) next to a supplementary 6 pin plug for PCIe.


ah - I thought the question was about the R4BE...


----------



## alancsalt

It is...doesn't the Black have this?

EDIT: @mistacheese This..they shifted it and made it a molex...


----------



## szeged

it does but its down at the bottom of the mobo


----------



## mistacheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 4 pin EZ? you mean the 4 pin EP (p4) cpu power plug? Or the 4-pin molex for pcie power?




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> On a RIVE the EZ plug is a floppy drive type plug for extra memory voltage (?) next to a supplementary 6 pin plug for PCIe.


Wow, that looks like my answer there. Thank you so much, I'll check as soon as I get home.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistacheese*
> 
> 
> Wow, that looks like my answer there. Thank you so much, I'll check as soon as I get home.


EZ_PLUG is here on board bottom edge:










Also, EZ_PLUG on RIVE/MVE doesn't power memory. It powers the rear I/O, which takes load off the line that powers memory, giving cleaner power if you have lots plugged into the back panel, and provides the POTENTIAL for more power to DIMMs if being "stolen" by plugged-in devices.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> There it is! Picked it up from microcenter yesterday! Got it built last night ill post some pictures this weekend. Build went together perfectly! No problems as of yet. Thanks for all your guys help i am definitely glad I picked this motherboard!
> 
> 
> 
> Luna Can u add me to the Club please.


Will do and still need to go back and find all the names I didn't add. Works been crazy as of late, so I can ready but not time to run back, keeping names on a notepad though lol.

Welcome btw! Keep us posted on your results!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Anybody familiar with the Asmedia controllers that can tell me if it's worth putting a 4TB WD Black on a SataIII Asmedia Port with 2 SSD's in Raid0 on the Intel Ports? Or should i put it on a SataII Intel Port, or just put 1 SSD & the WD Black on the 2 good ports?


I've only used them for my optical drives, the other ports are being used for my SSD's (intel) and 4x 2TB drives on the marvell's. As for running storage off them yes you can, as on my other comp I have a 1TB runnning off the ASMEDIA and it works fine, granted its a WD Green, but no issues, as its primarily a file server at home for other things. I'd say its equal to or better than marvel









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Darlene is right, I forgot that but;
> If you have to ask yourself if it's worth it, then it's probably not. Otherwise you would have found an excuse to go for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you already have a 3960x on would like to upgrade to either a 4930k or 4960x? Not worth it at all, it's like going from a 3960x to 3970x lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got myself a 4930k because I'm making a new rig, couldn't wait for haswell-e with my 2x780Ti sitting on my desk lol.


Pretty much only diff is higher IMC for more RAM support and higher timings + optimized slightly better and more compatible w/ the board, though for the amount of that just wait I'd say.

@Cad

So talked to G Skill they're not giving a good response either, all they said are both are excellent choices Lol though they did answer on the XMP stating that their XMP profiles ONLY support what the actual speed rating says on the box so if its 2400 then its 2400 there is no step down. I don't know why it's such a hard decision, I want to get the 2400 but at the same time kind of afraid it still may not boot, though since its all 1 kit maybe I'd get lucky?

If nothing I have would see an advantage to this ( I'm most concerned about Surround gaming in 1440p ) @ 2400mhz then I'll grab the 2133mhz no question. That should be the deal breaker. Either way they're gonna send me a check for whichever I order as a refund since for the RMA I'd have to wait a couple weeks but they said if I purchase from New Egg and show them the receipt they'll send me a check in the mail after receiving my X sticks.


----------



## kpoeticg

There's Marvell Ports on the RIVE BE? I thought there was just Intel and Asmedia. What are your 4x2TB drives plugged into?

I obviously don't mean specifically Asmedia or Marvell. The "Non-Intel" SataIII Ports...


----------



## USFORCES

*EZ plug* is to take some of the draw off the 20pin, Found this out the hard way with my Rampage III Extreme when the 20pin melted a little and would randomly shut off. Asus sent me a free replacement for my trouble even though it was user error on my part. I sold it for a nice profit at the time








I plug all of them in now!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> There's Marvell Ports on the RIVE BE? I thought there was just Intel and Asmedia. What are your 4x2TB drives plugged into?
> 
> I obviously don't mean specifically Asmedia or Marvell. The "Non-Intel" SataIII Ports...


At work but forgot the names, I just plugged the SSD's into the dedicated ( 2 ports ) for intel, forgot the other, I THOUGHT they were marvel/asmedia but could be wrong. I just know ASMEDIA is fine for storage/optical drives as I have 0 issues on my SB-E board P8-77V Asus


----------



## kpoeticg

Cool, maybe i'll stick with my original plan then and Raid0 a cpl SSD's on the Intel ports and put my WD Black 4TB on an Asmedia 6Gbps


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> *EZ plug* is to take some of the draw off the 20pin, Found this out the hard way with my Rampage III Extreme when the 20pin melted a little and would randomly shut off. Asus sent me a free replacement for my trouble even though it was user error on my part. I sold it for a nice profit at the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plug all of them in now!


EZ_Plug has had slightly different implementations over the years. For example, the 6-pin PCIe plug on RIVE/MVE, was there to provide power to PCIe...but on these two boards in particular, ASUS put a special VRM on the board to provide that power...and you could adjust PCIe 3.3V voltage thanks to that.

On RIVBE, it's just to provide extra power to PCIe slots, and that's it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Cool, maybe i'll stick with my original plan then and Raid0 a cpl SSD's on the Intel ports and put my WD Black 4TB on an Asmedia 6Gbps


I leave storage on the ASMedia ports, as well as back-up drives. I simply disable the drive controller I am not using in BIOS, and that way the drives can't be accessed improperly. There's no RAID support on these plugs, so it's really meant for that, I suspect.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I tried to heat the rad I/O to remove the heatpipe with a heat gun (1800W, 560 °) for more than 30 minutes (heating at the groove on the heatpipe) but without success, nothing moves.








I even feel that the glue does not ramolit

I do not have a torch or other.
Too bad, I will not use the rad I/O with waterblock


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> EZ_Plug has had slightly different implementations over the years. For example, the 6-pin PCIe plug on RIVE/MVE, was there to provide power to PCIe...but on these two boards in particular, ASUS put a special VRM on the board to provide that power...and you could adjust PCIe 3.3V voltage thanks to that.
> 
> On RIVBE, it's just to provide extra power to PCIe slots, and that's it.
> I leave storage on the ASMedia ports, as well as back-up drives. I simply disable the drive controller I am not using in BIOS, and that way the drives can't be accessed improperly. There's no RAID support on these plugs, so it's really meant for that, I suspect.


@Cad

So talked to G Skill they're not giving a good response either, all they said are both are excellent choices Lol though they did answer on the XMP stating that their XMP profiles ONLY support what the actual speed rating says on the box so if its 2400 then its 2400 there is no step down. I don't know why it's such a hard decision, I want to get the 2400 but at the same time kind of afraid it still may not boot, though since its all 1 kit maybe I'd get lucky?

If nothing I have would see an advantage to this ( I'm most concerned about Surround gaming in 1440p ) @ 2400mhz then I'll grab the 2133mhz no question. That should be the deal breaker. Either way they're gonna send me a check for whichever I order as a refund since for the RMA I'd have to wait a couple weeks but they said if I purchase from New Egg and show them the receipt they'll send me a check in the mail after receiving my X sticks.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> @Cad
> 
> So talked to G Skill they're not giving a good response either, all they said are both are excellent choices Lol though they did answer on the XMP stating that their XMP profiles ONLY support what the actual speed rating says on the box so if its 2400 then its 2400 there is no step down. I don't know why it's such a hard decision, I want to get the 2400 but at the same time kind of afraid it still may not boot, though since its all 1 kit maybe I'd get lucky?
> 
> If nothing I have would see an advantage to this ( I'm most concerned about Surround gaming in 1440p ) @ 2400mhz then I'll grab the 2133mhz no question. That should be the deal breaker. Either way they're gonna send me a check for whichever I order as a refund since for the RMA I'd have to wait a couple weeks but they said if I purchase from New Egg and show them the receipt they'll send me a check in the mail after receiving my X sticks.


Yeah I could be mistaken...I've reviewed quite a few memory kit over the years.







Maybe it's the Kingston wit hdual-SPD...uh...well, whatever.

Take the 2400.

And yes, it's a bit different with one kit with 8 sticks vs two 4-stick kits, since SPD will be optimized for having all slots full.

If it doesn't work right, accept it as a challenge to force you to learn to tweak memory.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah I could be mistaken...I've reviewed quite a few memory kit over the years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's the Kingston wit hdual-SPD...uh...well, whatever.
> 
> Take the 2400.
> 
> And yes, it's a bit different with one kit with 8 sticks vs two 4-stick kits, since SPD will be optimized for having all slots full.
> 
> If it doesn't work right, accept it as a challenge to force you to learn to tweak memory.


K also last question would adjusting the Mem voltage help any? I popped my X's @ 1.67 which made them stable @ 2400, though I know they're amazing @ voltage as even @ 1.8 they barely get warm, so unsure about the Ripjaws and how they'd handle and all as far as heat wise.

If you think tweaking will help then yeah I'll just go for the 2400's My chip can't do any higher than 4.5 it seems even 4.6 is impossible w/ 1.5v it just freezes @ the windows loading. Reset button even refuses to work I have to hold power.

So at least I know 4.5 I can still work with. Not sure if I'm missing anything if running @ 5ghz or not.

EDIT

Interesting read and feedback from G Skill ( Not my review btw lol )

http://www.newegg.com/Product/SingleProductReview.aspx?reviewid=3961022

Snipping a bit, quoting directly from G Skill for anyone else wondering. So I'll go ahead w/ the 2400, heck maybe it'll stabilize better and let my CPU not twerk out, we'll see. Went ahead and purchased the 64gb 2400.
Quote:


> *Simply because a motherboard supports 64GB and DDR3-2400, does NOT automatically imply it can support 64GB @ DDR3-2400*. In addition, not all CPUs can support this RAM either. *Only Intel K and X series CPUs are capable.* As you know, this is no ordinary RAM, this is an extreme high capacity memory that pushes the maximum limits. If you refer to the Qualified Motherboards List, *only the ASUS Rampage IV (Black and Extreme), X79 Deluxe, and MSI X79A-GD45 Plus motherboards are fully guaranteed for this memory kit.* With one of these motherboards *and a capable CPU*, enable XMP and everything will run at full speed. With all other motherboards such as the P9X79 Pro, you can enable XMP, set the DRAM Frequency to DDR3-2133, and see how that works. If stable, then tweak voltages and such to see if you can stabilize DDR3-2400. *This RAM at DDR3-2133 is still better than any other RAM on the market*, so you will definitely get the maximum performance out of your system either way.


----------



## NEOAethyr

@LunaP
I'de go for the 2400.
If you went with the 2133 I think the odds are they'll be wore then the 2400.
I always go straight to 1.65v and "usually" keep it around there.

The cpu clocks...
I messed around a little bit trying to find the best program to test it with.
The quickest...
IBT/Linx is the fastest so far, it'll catch it within mins if it's to unstable.
If it's on the edge, IBT and Linx won't detect an error at all, tried around 4 hrs of it and it detected nothing.

In the end, y-cruncher does the job within an 2-5hrs.
However it won't always catch cpu errors either in some cases (at least in the past for me..., not so far this board and cpu though...)
I tried the latest y-cruncher, and that couldn't detect them within 4hrs.
So I'm still using y-cruncher v0.5.4 Build 9148 (fix 1).
Stress test > 1gb (menu: 2 > 2).

Gaming wise, didn't test everything but even pcsx2 in software mode still has trouble detecting the errors.

Have not tried pll overvoltage or anything like that even though I know it helps.

This is at 4.45ghz.
4.4ghz I know is 100%.
Just trying to find alt programs to error out at this vcore and speed.
And so far no luck at all








.

I have not ran prime yet.
I did for a bit and noticed one of my cores hit 69c with that compared to all other apps hitting 65c max.

Do note I have the 2x140mm stock fans on my rad running at the lowest duty cycle.
Pump is powered directly by the psu.
It's a nzxt x60.
Like I said only 2 fans and they are running at low speed.

I messed with ibt at 5.5ghz.
PLL overvoltage and that other setting helps.
LLC extreme helps...
Adding more vcore helps...
But it's never enough for complete 5.56ghz stability.
I went up 0.05v or so on the thing.
I think it's heat.
Haven't tried messing with the cpu on other straps though, just mem a little bit.

I got around 2830mhz mem to bench, and 3025'ish or whatever it was to boot windows.
I think it was harder then it should of been though.
It wasn't any faster then 2400 + oc'ed bclk, at least not at the timings I set just to get it to boot 10-14, it's what the bios had for a profile... (didn't mess around with it)

Does anyone know if xeon es cpu's will work on any of the bios'es?
Like on the pre-release 0208?
I am just curious.

I know it's not likely to bebale to use the latest xeon 15core that just came out in the news a few days ago.
I'm gonna try to get a tray of these, it's just an idea I had last night, it just depends on if my cousin goes to china or not.
I wouldn't sell them or anything, I'de use them







.
I was thinking that I get one, mod the bios to put the microcode in from the latest linux package maybe.
Goofy idea yeah maybe, but thinking about almost 3x the cpu threads has me thinking it may be worth it







.

Has anyone even put an es 8 core xeon in this board before?
I mean in pre-release of course..., not likely to be supported at all by now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I tried to heat the rad I/O to remove the heatpipe with a heat gun (1800W, 560 °) for more than 30 minutes (heating at the groove on the heatpipe) but without success, nothing moves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even feel that the glue does not ramolit
> 
> I do not have a torch or other.
> Too bad, I will not use the rad I/O with waterblock


I'de say screw it at that point and rip off the heatpipe and then sand it, you'll never see the underside of it again anyways.
I assume you never plan on swapping it back to the standard heatsink assembly.
Unless part of the heatpipe stays on there when you rip it off, then it would be a pain, ... needle nose pliers and perhaps having to sand alot more then bargained for.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@ LunaP

This is weird, and not very reassuring to me, but just the other day when I was asking you exactly which 64GB G.Skill sets you were debating getting, on this 64GB set of 2133 Ripjaws the RIVBE hadn't been put on G.Skill's QVL list
http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-17000cl11q2-64gbzld

But at the time on these 2400 Ripjaws the RIVBE had recently been listed in the QVL for that set.
http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-19200cl10q2-64gbzhd

I posted about it *here* (3 days, 22 hours ago) as soon as I noticed they had added the RIVBE to the QVL for that 2400 set.

But now when I look at it the RIVBE isn't showing up on their QVL for that 2400 set any more.


----------



## Ajay57

It might sound like a stupid question, why do you need 64 GB of ram anyway?? Is it based on certain programs that you have to run, that are very demanding on how much Ram you have?

Just curious to know why LUNA, because as i understand it the more Ram you have installed the bigger strain there is on the IMC!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## NEOAethyr

64gigs @ 2400 will likely be hynix mfr, that's the best high density stuff I know off at the moment, the best of the best, might be a bit to work with though.
32gigs you could end up with avg samsung or single sidded mfr (4 sticks would be ds mfr, 8 would be ss mfr).
16gigs, if you pick right then good samsung, otherwise cfr (samsung would be the better and the best performing out of all other configs probably, minus the small amount of ram it equ's to).

Prob is with 64gigs, I don't think they tested the board with that config.
There isn't a single mem profile for it, and none of the bench screenies that came out before the board was release had a screen of 64gig.
You should beable to get 2400 out of it, actually I personally think 2600-2800 is doable with ds mfr (not that I would know or anything..., just a guess).
But right now as is I think mainly 2400 is doable, probably have to wait for more bios updates for higher.
That's what I think anyways.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> It might sound like a stupid question, why do you need 64 GB of ram anyway?? Is it based on certain programs that you have to run, that are very demanding on how much Ram you have?
> 
> Just curious to know why LUNA, because as i understand it the more Ram you have installed the bigger strain there is on the IMC!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


I'd be happy to answer this for the 10th time lol, I have applications, that are high demands in RAM and I am coming from having 24gb of RAM of which I was keeping around 75% usage and anything over 50% = uh oh.

If I could get away w/ 32gb then yes, but as of current even w/ the 32 I was still having somewhat of an issue. I do a lot of photoshop editing, working with rendering, streaming video @ 2560x1440 @ high rates, doing video encodes as well as VM's open in the bg while I game.

Ofc there's always the default answer THIS IS OCN!!!! GO BIG OR GO HOME









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> 64gigs @ 2400 will likely be hynix mfr, that's the best high density stuff I know off at the moment, the best of the best, might be a bit to work with though.
> 32gigs you could end up with avg samsung or single sidded mfr (4 sticks would be ds mfr, 8 would be ss mfr).
> 16gigs, if you pick right then good samsung, otherwise cfr (samsung would be the better and the best performing out of all other configs probably, minus the small amount of ram it equ's to).
> 
> Prob is with 64gigs, I don't think they tested the board with that config.
> There isn't a single mem profile for it, and none of the bench screenies that came out before the board was release had a screen of 64gig.
> You should beable to get 2400 out of it, actually I personally think 2600-2800 is doable with ds mfr (not that I would know or anything..., just a guess).
> But right now as is I think mainly 2400 is doable, probably have to wait for more bios updates for higher.
> That's what I think anyways.


I'm almost wondering if My X's had 1 set of Hynix and the other Samsung lol.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> It might sound like a stupid question, why do you need 64 GB of ram anyway?? Is it based on certain programs that you have to run, that are very demanding on how much Ram you have?
> 
> Just curious to know why LUNA, because as i understand it the more Ram you have installed the bigger strain there is on the IMC!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Well, for myself I want to be able to try out ram disk and see how well it works or not for programs like autocad, solidworks, adobe premier pro (all of which I use daily), etc and maybe some games.


----------



## Ajay57

Sorry for making you answer for the 10th time, but i have only joined in the last few days, and have not read the whole thread from end to end!!

I really great-full for the reply and yes you would need every ounce of Ram you can get, so good luck on finding the right set!

Kind Regards,

AJ.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, for myself I want to be able to try out ram disk and see how well it works or not for programs like autocad, solidworks, adobe premier pro (all of which I use daily), etc and maybe some games.


Ahh yeah forgot about RAM disk since I've been having so many issues lol , if this goes well I'd love to test that as well









Wow NewEgg seems fast today. In 2 minutes went from processing to packaging, even though rushed said it may ship tomorrow, really hoping it ships today though else overnight would arrive Monday which negates the purpose lol. Wish you could select which warehouse. Order was made before 3pm EST time.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Just came across this pic and now I want to return my CPU and buy from Amazon or something.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> _*
> 
> This is one of those questions where, if you have to ask, then the 4960 is not the one for you.*_
> 
> 4960's are supposedly on wafers from close to the center of the crystal.
> 
> Generally, that would give them a better statistical chance of being better clockers at lower voltages.
> 
> You can't take that for granted though, . . . . .
> 
> It just maybe gains you a bit of advantage in the silicon lottery.
> 
> Even if they do have a little bit of an edge, it still doesn't do much good until you're experienced and knowledgeable enough to be able to make use of it.
> 
> For most guys, it's all about e-peen and bragging rights.
> 
> About the only place you'll ever see an advantage is in some benchies. . . . . It certainly won't perceptibly change how your games play.
> 
> Get the 4930, learn all about how to clock it and maximize its potential, then . . . . if you want to go thru all that again, for a couple more percent of performance gain in a few limited areas, sell it and buy a 4960, or whatever is the e-peen symbol at that time.
> 
> Putting the $400 towards something you use all the time or need to improve seems a better purpose . . .
> 
> Another GPU, a hi-res or 4K monitor maybe . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> realy dont understand what you are tryind to say, Already got an 3960x, so i wanna know if is worth to buy 4960x over the 4930k.
> 
> And then you say the 4960x isent the right one for me?
> 
> its a question, Anwser it or dont comment this.
Click to expand...

hate to tell you she did answer your question. talking rudely wont change what she will say

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Did anybody ever respond to whether it's worth buying a 4TB WD Black and running it off one of the Asmedia SataIII ports?


really i think the q is do you need another 4tb for storage ? as it is 7200 oyu probably wont see the difference !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I tried to heat the rad I/O to remove the heatpipe with a heat gun (1800W, 560 °) for more than 30 minutes (heating at the groove on the heatpipe) but without success, nothing moves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even feel that the glue does not ramolit
> 
> I do not have a torch or other.
> Too bad, I will not use the rad I/O with waterblock


sounds like you have a low power heatgun to me maybe time to get a second ?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Did anybody ever respond to whether it's worth buying a 4TB WD Black and running it off one of the Asmedia SataIII ports?
> 
> 
> 
> really i think the q is do you need another 4tb for storage ? as it is 7200 oyu probably wont see the difference !
Click to expand...

I'm building in a HAF XB, so really don't have a ton of HD space. 2 SSD's in Raid0 and 1 Mechanical is what i've been planning. A 4TB seems about right to me









Can you clear up the 2nd part of your answer for me? I probly won't see the difference between SataII & SataIII, or i won't see the difference between Intel SataIII or Asmedia SataIII? That was where my question was originally coming from.

Or i won't see the difference between WD Black and say a Seagate or WD Green Intellipower for instance?

Thanx for the help


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Did anybody ever respond to whether it's worth buying a 4TB WD Black and running it off one of the Asmedia SataIII ports?
> 
> 
> 
> really i think the q is do you need another 4tb for storage ? as it is 7200 oyu probably wont see the difference !
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm building in a HAF XB, so really don't have a ton of HD space. 2 SSD's in Raid0 and 1 Mechanical is what i've been planning. A 4TB seems about right to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you clear up the 2nd part of your answer for me? I probly won't see the difference between SataII & SataIII, or i won't see the difference between Intel SataIII or Asmedia SataIII? That was where my question was originally coming from.
> 
> Or i won't see the difference between WD Black and say a Seagate or WD Green Intellipower for instance?
> 
> Thanx for the help
Click to expand...

You won't see a difference between the Intel and ASM sata 3's.

You won't always see a difference between sata 2 and sata 3.

Mechanical HDDs are pretty physically limited, they can't even saturate sata2 bandwidth for more than short bursts.

Operations that work from the cache are much faster, and that's why, depending on use, mechanical HDD's sometimes see a boost with sata3 and/or large caches.

Use your ASM ports for the spinners and you'll be fine.

If you have spare Intel sata 2 ports, plug them there and turn off the ASM ports in bios and you may get faster boots, if that's a goal.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Did anybody ever respond to whether it's worth buying a 4TB WD Black and running it off one of the Asmedia SataIII ports?
> 
> 
> 
> really i think the q is do you need another 4tb for storage ? as it is 7200 oyu probably wont see the difference !
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm building in a HAF XB, so really don't have a ton of HD space. 2 SSD's in Raid0 and 1 Mechanical is what i've been planning. A 4TB seems about right to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you clear up the 2nd part of your answer for me? I probly won't see the difference between SataII & SataIII, or i won't see the difference between Intel SataIII or Asmedia SataIII? That was where my question was originally coming from.
> 
> Or i won't see the difference between WD Black and say a Seagate or WD Green Intellipower for instance?
> 
> Thanx for the help
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You won't see a difference between the Intel and ASM sata 3's.
> 
> You won't always see a difference between sata 2 and sata 3.
> 
> Mechanical HDDs are pretty physically limited, they can't even saturate sata2 bandwidth for more than short bursts.
> 
> Operations that work from the cache are much faster, and that's why, depending on use, mechanical HDD's sometimes see a boost with sata3 and/or large caches.
> 
> Use your ASM ports for the spinners and you'll be fine.
> 
> If you have spare Intel sata 2 ports, plug them there and turn off the ASM ports in bios and you may get faster boots, if that's a goal.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...











thats what i ment


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx guys. Appreciate the help as always.

I'm gonna be using SSD's for Boot/OS drives, the 4TB WD Black is just so i can access my data quickly when i need it. For instance keeping some of my less-played games on there and then transfer em to my SSD Raid Array when i need it.

I understand now. Thanx again =)


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I'de say screw it at that point and rip off the heatpipe and then sand it, you'll never see the underside of it again anyways.
> I assume you never plan on swapping it back to the standard heatsink assembly.
> Unless part of the heatpipe stays on there when you rip it off, then it would be a pain, ... needle nose pliers and perhaps having to sand alot more then bargained for.


Its good, I managed


----------



## LunaP

G skill RAM arrived today, 2 sep boxes in 1 box lol. Lets see how many times my CPU asplodes trying to run it


----------



## gdubc

So much for the 8 stick kit eh? Well lucky for the rest of us you get to be the guinea pig and see how it works. Why wouldn't they have just given the kit I wonder? Maybe only an 8 stick kit in the 2133?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> So much for the 8 stick kit eh? Well lucky for the rest of us you get to be the guinea pig and see how it works. Why wouldn't they have just given the kit I wonder? Maybe only an 8 stick kit in the 2133?


It's an 8 stick kit 2400. The 2 boxes seems to be just separating the Mem fans that come w/ it. Just popped them in, set optimized defaults, rebooted then put my settings back in. Booted right into windows @ 64gb 2400

so far so good.

Now the odd part.
Ran AIDA64

SLOW as hell rates. Yet lower latency than the Tridents lol?



Gonna try to attempt 5.0 again later and see if it was the RAM holding the machine back.


----------



## cadaveca

I'd say stability issue w/ controller, or timings are whacked...as I'd personally expect given the board's BIOS....Can ya toss up a few memtweakit screens so we can see the timings?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I'd say stability issue w/ controller, or timings are whacked...as I'd personally expect given the board's BIOS....Can ya toss up a few memtweakit screens so we can see the timings?






On profile #2 of 2 might try #1 but the difference I see is 2mhz or other timings that may be thrown out in there.


----------



## cadaveca

Timings look "OK"...boost VCCSA a bit, what ya got now? RTL/IO seems a bit off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> On profile #2 of 2 might try #1 but the difference I see is 2mhz or other timings that may be thrown out in there.


One profile might be Haswell, one older configs, so try it. Haswell prefers delayed timings in some areas compared to past platforms, could throw timings out.

I'd also try without loading XMP.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Timings look "OK"...boost VCCSA a bit, what ya got now? RTL/IO seems a bit off.
> One profile might be Haswell, one older configs, so try it. Haswell prefers delayed timings in some areas compared to past platforms, could throw timings out.
> 
> I'd also try without loading XMP.


Just looked in bios and noticed that VTT and 2nd VTT as well as VCCSA were on auto, and the settings they took were 1.25 for VTT and 1.25 for VCCSA VTT stayed @ 1.05

Should I lower them? Was thinking of boosting the ram voltage from 1.65 to 1.67


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Just looked in bios and noticed that VTT and 2nd VTT as well as VCCSA were on auto, and the settings they took were 1.25 for VTT and 1.25 for VCCSA VTT stayed @ 1.05
> 
> Should I lower them? Was thinking of boosting the ram voltage from 1.65 to 1.67


Gotta try something...how's bandwidth with the JEDEC profile?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Gotta try something...how's bandwidth with the JEDEC profile?


Haven't tested was waiting for your response before saving and starting again lol, I'll try Profile #1 for now @ 1.67

Interesting theres one hell of a lag between the POST and when windows actually starts up ( the blue dots @ the top when u disable gui )

Alright reran Aida64 same results about a 1% diff if anything.

Dropped down to 2133,

Still about the same... I know my Tridents still achieved 60gbs @ 2133 when I ran tests... Latency went up.

Think I see the issue, Channel C timings are different from everyone elses. AB and D all follow the same but C runs its own oddly gonna try manually setting it though it only allows to set one to go acrross it looks like which is good.


----------



## cadaveca

drop VTT and VCCSA as low as you can get them. When it is too low, yeah, it can affect performance a bit, but it is usually not that much.

I'd set "MODE3" and "NEARER" in memory timings, too.

And just because







:


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> drop VTT and VCCSA as low as you can get them. When it is too low, yeah, it can affect performance a bit, but it is usually not that much.
> 
> I'd set "MODE3" and "NEARER" in memory timings, too.
> 
> And just because
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Ok took the mem out and reseated it differently booted up and bios is now showing same settings across the board for all channels so its a start. Set VTT to 1.15 and VCCSA to 1.05 lets see how she rides.

LOL...god







Actually those timings are manually set forgot to reload optimized defaults, just did and setting everything again. Timings are there this time even on auto which is good.


----------



## cadaveca

LOLOLOLOLOL!!!

So..yeah.

Listen. Pull the sticks. look at serial numbers, and place sticks, lowest number to highest, in A1, B1, C1, D1, A2, B2, C2, D2.

Boot into BIOS. Go to tools page, and check SPD tool there. If any sticks give "ERROR", reseat them. Snap screenshot, if ya want for timings.

Try MemOK button...what happens?

Heh. Man, I'mma jealous, I love playing with stuff like this. I'd drop everything to stock, and clock ram manually.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> LOLOLOLOLOL!!!
> 
> So..yeah.
> 
> Listen. Pull the sticks. look at serial numbers, and place sticks, lowest number to highest, in A1, B1, C1, D1, A2, B2, C2, D2.
> 
> Boot into BIOS. Go to tools page, and check SPD tool there. If any sticks give "ERROR", reseat them. Snap screenshot, if ya want for timings.
> 
> Try MemOK button...what happens?
> 
> Heh. Man, I'mma jealous, I love playing with stuff like this. I'd drop everything to stock, and clock ram manually.


That's what I did the 2nd time someone had mentioned that before may have been you or something I read on the ROG forums.

Anywhoo new results back to the starting plate w/ just a big of a difference lol.



VTT on 1.2
VCCSA on 1.15 when they were on 1.15 and 1.05 that's when I got he previous results but hadn't optimized defaults yet.

WHat's the MEM OK button do again?


----------



## cadaveca

MemOK should run a few pre-set memory tests and set the board up right for the sticks.

Don't forget to check SPDTOOL in BIOS!!!

Likely it was me making the install recommendation...just one of the many things I suggest noone else does, because I just roll like dat. :roll:


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> MemOK should run a few pre-set memory tests and set the board up right for the sticks.
> 
> Don't forget to check SPDTOOL in BIOS!!!
> 
> Likely it was me making the install recommendation...just one of the many things I suggest noone else does, because I just roll like dat. :roll:


Is that actually proven to help or just something to check? Also looked @ The SPD TOOL and saw the major diff betewen profile 1 and 2 1 is tighter settings while 2 is more laxed, just tried too but still getting about the same and latency goes up so yeah...kinda stumped on this. Let me try the Mem tool and setting latency to nearest in case it reset.


----------



## cadaveca

Yeha, MemOK! should set up tertiary timings properly. It's been useful for me with Z77 and Z87, never had to use it on X79 myself.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeha, MemOK! should set up tertiary timings properly. It's been useful for me with Z77 and Z87, never had to use it on X79 myself.


It set everything to stock lol @ 1333mhz

I had to set it back on the profile to 2400 booted into windows still the same. I noticed that the XMP profile speeds call for 1.25 on VCCSA. This really sucks at least its not crashing but man those are slow as hell speeds... 2133 changes nothing really, haven't tested 1866, if I did block 125 what should I change?

Gonna shoot for 2333

---

Edit nope 2333 only synced up read/write, and really boosted copy though lol. Latency = 52 even lower.

Read = 17gbs write = 17gbs copy = 28.7gbs Latency = 52

minor progress but still what could be causing the speeds to be so slow?


----------



## cadaveca

Look at the right-hand column of timings in you most recent memtweakit...those 7s are screwing with you.

try 9-11-11-31-2t on 2133 MHz, 1.6 V should be enough.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Look at the right-hand column of timings in you most recent memtweakit...those 7s are screwing with you.
> 
> try 9-11-11-31-2t on 2133 MHz, 1.6 V should be enough.


Shouldn't they be 8's? or 9's?

I'll pop those timings in on the 2333 I have and see what happens. Also edited my previous post at the same time you responded so check that out too.


----------



## cadaveca

Compare first and second memtweakit, first is what I expect for 4 sticks @ 1600-2133.

Note which ones adjusted there, and which didn't.

What to set...man...I dunno. I have tonnes of timing set-up on paper...I'll snap a pic of a couple of timings to try...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Compare first and second memtweakit, first is what I expect for 4 sticks @ 1600-2133.


Instant BSOD on 2333

2133 @ those timings booted. Testing speeds.

I can't set the cas delay timings any higher than 7 it seems and WHOAH WHOAH WHOA CAD ur a genius!!! Pics shortly once this is done running

read 58.5gbs write 61gbs copy 57 gbs latency 55.6

We're getting somewhere!!!! \o/

ANy chance my previous memory was the reason I couldn't go past 4.6?????? I wanna try again. Windows would just freeze @ boot up (dotted lines)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Instant BSOD on 2333
> 
> 2133 @ those timings booted. Testing speeds.
> 
> I can't set the cas delay timings any higher than 7 it seems and WHOAH WHOAH WHOA CAD ur a genius!!! Pics shortly once this is done running
> 
> read 58.5gbs write 61gbs copy 57 gbs latency 55.6
> 
> We're getting somewhere!!!! \o/
> 
> ANy chance my previous memory was the reason I couldn't go past 4.6?????? I wanna try again.


I'd not hesitate to try.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I'd not hesitate to try.


Whats the highest Voltage recommended for 24/7 use that won't kill my CPU in a year lol


----------



## NEOAethyr

@LunaP

When the timings differ per chan on the mem timings page then it means that the board dropped that chan.
I found that out messing with the IOL's and RTL's on the bottom.

To help prevent it from dropping chan's set:
Dram Training
Enhanced Training (CHA, CHB, CHC and CHD)
Set them to enabled.

Set Rampage Tweak Mode to 3, this may or may not make any difference...

Set Latency Boundry to nearest, nearer or further.
Nearest being the fastest.
Furthest will ruin your bandwith and it's only worth messing with when you're trying to figure out some WR clocks...

Set RAW MHZ Aid to disabled.
Change it from auto to disabled, I'm assuing the board is putting it on enabled when you have it set to auto.
This is another setting that will absolutely ruin your bandwith.

Those 2 settings I found cut the bandwith around half for each.
I managed to get around 12-15k in bandwith by setting them, which is pretty freaking horrible.
It's all like, "Look mom, I have an amd now"...

The only other one off hand I can think of is the command rate, yours is set to 2t.
You're gonna want 1t.
But with that much ram it might not be stable, it's definitely worth a shot though.

Edit:
I see you got somewhere, what timings did you change?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Whats the highest Voltage recommended for 24/7 use that won't kill my CPU in a year lol


I say 1.35V. 1.4V should be fine, too, but staying under 75C is recommended, of course. Get under 50C, and I think a bit more is OK.

At the same time, it depends on the chip. Chips with higher leakage can handle more voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> @LunaP
> 
> When the timings differ per chan on the mem timings page then it means that the board dropped that chan.
> I found that out messing with the IOL's and RTL's on the bottom.
> 
> To help prevent it from dropping chan's set:
> Dram Training
> Enhanced Training (CHA, CHB, CHC and CHD)
> Set them to enabled.
> 
> Set Rampage Tweak Mode to 3, this may or may not make any difference...
> 
> Set Latency Boundry to nearest, nearer or further.
> Nearest being the fastest.
> Furthest will ruin your bandwith and it's only worth messing with when you're trying to figure out some WR clocks...
> 
> The only other one off hand I can think of is the command rate, yours is set to 2t.
> You're gonna want 1t.
> But with that much ram it might not be stable, it's definitely worth a shot though.


1T is wasting time with 64 GB. Wanting it doesn't matter. Anything 2133 Mhz and over, 2T is best for long-term longevity, IMHO. He's not benchmarking 24/7 with this rig. Tweaking for benchmarks is a whole different ball game.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I say 1.35V. 1.4V should be fine, too, but staying under 75C is recommended, of course. Get under 50C, and I think a bit more is OK.
> 
> At the same time, it depends on the chip. Chips with higher leakage can handle more voltage.
> 1T is wasting time with 64 GB. Wanting it doesn't matter. Anything 2133 Mhz and over, 2T is best for long-term longevity, IMHO. He's not benchmarking 24/7 with this rig. Tweaking for benchmarks is a whole different ball game.


So far @ 4.9 can't get to windows w/o BSOD even @ 1.4v trying with 4.8.

Oddly @ 4.8 it just locks up @ starting windows yet 4.9 instant BSOD.

Also @ 4.8 reset button refuses to work.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So far @ 4.9 can't get to windows w/o BSOD even @ 1.4v trying with 4.8.
> 
> Oddly @ 4.8 it just locks up @ starting windows yet 4.9 instant BSOD.


You can push more if you want, but again, it's all about the chip, temps, and cooling, to me.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You can push more if you want, but again, it's all about the chip, temps, and cooling, to me.


I pushed as hard as I could nothing. VCSAA all the way up to 1.25 and VTT at the same 1.4 v it cannot boot @ 4.8 though oddly 4.9 just BSOD's so odd. Trying 4.6 again on 1.3v Backed down on the other settings again.

Nothing it just sits at loading windows everything frozen then about a minute later the comp just reboots. Seems 4.5 is all I can do lol. Really hope I'm not missing out on any performance gains w/ that missing 500mhz |:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> @LunaP
> 
> When the timings differ per chan on the mem timings page then it means that the board dropped that chan.
> I found that out messing with the IOL's and RTL's on the bottom.
> 
> To help prevent it from dropping chan's set:
> Dram Training
> Enhanced Training (CHA, CHB, CHC and CHD)
> Set them to enabled.
> 
> Set Rampage Tweak Mode to 3, this may or may not make any difference...
> 
> Set Latency Boundry to nearest, nearer or further.
> Nearest being the fastest.
> Furthest will ruin your bandwith and it's only worth messing with when you're trying to figure out some WR clocks...
> 
> Set RAW MHZ Aid to disabled.
> Change it from auto to disabled, I'm assuing the board is putting it on enabled when you have it set to auto.
> This is another setting that will absolutely ruin your bandwith.
> 
> Those 2 settings I found cut the bandwith around half for each.
> I managed to get around 12-15k in bandwith by setting them, which is pretty freaking horrible.
> It's all like, "Look mom, I have an amd now"...
> 
> The only other one off hand I can think of is the command rate, yours is set to 2t.
> You're gonna want 1t.
> But with that much ram it might not be stable, it's definitely worth a shot though.
> 
> Edit:
> I see you got somewhere, what timings did you change?


Just the ones Cad gave me 9-11-11-31 took me from 17gbs back to nearly 60. Also for testing purposes I added you're settings just now ( raw mhz aid + dram training ) I'll see how it goes.

There's GOT to be other settings that assist w/ this as there's no way regardless of pumping up to 1.5v that the CPU just can't move past +100 mhz more.........

Ok weird I went back to my previous settings @ 4.5 and now loading into windows just throws a bajillion colored pixels @ me

Hoping thats my graphics driver but I think somethings awry damnit.


----------



## cadaveca

Of course it's slower...but....man...CPU is what..3.6 GHz on all cores stock? 1 GHz OC is not enough?










Ideal OC is less than 1.3V, in my books, should give easy temps to deal with for most cooling.

Pushing 64 GB is gonna limit CPU OC a bit, I guess. Keeping an eye out for a pre-tested chip might be worthwhile if you're really after that 5 GHz.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Of course it's slower...but....man...CPU is what..3.6 GHz on all cores stock? 1 GHz OC is not enough?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ideal OC is less than 1.3V, in my books, should give easy temps to deal with for most cooling.
> 
> Pushing 64 GB is gonna limit CPU OC a bit, I guess. Keeping an eye out for a pre-tested chip might be worthwhile if you're really after that 5 GHz.


Yeah though the same issue was when I had only 4 sticks in as well.. so odd.. hoping I don't need to resinstall windows I can't get in anymore just tons a pink squares.. wth


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah though the same issue was when I had only 4 sticks in as well.. so odd.. hoping I don't need to resinstall windows I can't get in anymore just tons a pink squares.. wth


possible you need to, yep. VCCSA.VTT too low can cause video artifacting...pink squares is usually VGA mem...did you bork your top card playing with the memory, swapping slots??

I had an SSD die last week...lost about 600 hours of review work yet to be posted...

I bought a 60 GB Corsair ForceGT...it's red....backed my OS SDD onto it....like a red emergency phone.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> possible you need to, yep. VCCSA.VTT too low can cause video artifacting...pink squares is usually VGA mem...did you bork your top card playing with the memory, swapping slots??
> 
> I had an SSD die last week...lost about 600 hours of review work yet to be posted...
> 
> I bought a 60 GB Corsair ForceGT...it's red....backed my OS SDD onto it....like a red emergency phone.


Nope they're at stock unless I load up a profile, got a bunch saved but been running stock lately since there's no real need for em.

Optimized the bios settings again and now it loads into windows fine....wonder wth that was...


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Nope they're at stock unless I load up a profile, got a bunch saved but been running stock lately since there's no real need for em.
> 
> Optimized the bios settings again and now it loads into windows fine....wonder wth that was...


vccsa too low on dram training? Or one of those things NeoAether suggested that you tried, if you did.


----------



## NEOAethyr

I lost around 2tb's of data about a week after I 1st got my board.
It was my bad, installing win7 x86 with the raid controller disabled.
Stock driver didn't work so I had no choice, thought it would be ok since my ssd wasn't actually part of the array.
But nope, windows wrote a new boot sector on top of my 2nd drive in the array, made it impossible for the controller rom to detect which drive came 1st.
It took me like a week to a week and a half to figure out how to recover it (winhex+testdisk).
I had to del that new bootsector by hand.
Very scary experience.
I was pissed and freaked out at the same time.
Years of data and work (hand rolled tweaks and code, every password, etc).

At 1st I blamed intel for making a bunk 32bit raid driver that refused to work, and asus for putting it on there website without testing it.
Then I blamed microsoft for writing data to drives it was never told to mess with.
In the end you live and learn and try not to repeat the mistakes made in the past.
I did end up finding a driver that worked for 32bit, but it's to new for the rom, I got the identical one for x64 as well.
I need to find an older one that works.
But then again I'm not going back to 32bit windows anymore, no point when win7 32bit I can't write code on anyways.
64bit is the same way but more games work so why not...
I had a modded kernel for 32bit to use up to 2tb's of ram, and it works fine.
But these days games think they need 64bit so whatever ^^.
I miss win2k3, I dev code on that, and everything worked for the most part.
Except now it lacks dx11...
I'll be switching to linux someday sooner or later.

Anyways if windows is having probs, back off to something more safe, boot and scan the drives, then go back to messing around.

I got pixel issues on the bios messing with my mem clocks, trying to get around 3000mhz stable.
I backed off immediately and called it quits for the time being.

If the prob doesn't go away when you back off, it could be you need to re-insert the vga card.

I'm not even sure why they used the type of single latch mem slots that they did this time around, I can't even get my memory out when my vga card is in there.
Didn't have this prob with my last board lol (ch4-f), but I didn't like those sloppy loose slots anyways.
I think they were a half inch higher though compared to this board.


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn NEO, that's a rough story

Windows has the world brainwashed. LINUX FOR ALL!!!!! (even though i use windows for 95% of my computing lol)

Seriously though, people need to learn basic linux stuff. Never have to worry about losing data because of boot sectors =\


----------



## yttocstfarc

Ok guys i'm up and running! Who out there is rocking a 4820k?

What would be considered a good core voltage. XMP 2133 on the ram. Adjusted Core to 47, auto set voltage at 1.408v under full load Aida64. Temps are staying in the mid 60s.







I think I got alot more to go. Thoughts?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Ok guys i'm up and running! Who out there is rocking a 4820k?
> 
> What would be considered a good core voltage. XMP 2133 on the ram. Adjusted Core to 47, auto set voltage at 1.408v under full load Aida64. Temps are staying in the mid 60s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I got alot more to go. Thoughts?


You're at your limit votage wise. 4.7GHz is pretty awesome though, nice chip!


----------



## yttocstfarc

Just went to 4.8! 1 hour of Aida 64 so far. 2133 XMP RAM. BIOS vcore set to 1.4, Multiplier set to 4.8. 1.408 idle 1.424 under AIDA64 load. Temps are still in the mid low 60's hasn't even thought about touching 70. I tried to boot into 4.9 went to 1.425v wouldn't go so I left it at that until I can do some more research and learn a little bit more about the system. Thoughts?


----------



## Arm3nian

Here is a use for the included 2t2r adapter. I bridged my 1Gbps over ethernet with the 5ghz wireless on my new ASUS AC68U router. The adapter only has 2 antennas so roughly 866Mbps over two 80mhz streams. Probably some advantages or disadvantages to this but 1.8Gbps is nice to look at


----------



## kpoeticg

I need to decide on an AC router soon myself. Trying to decide between the Asus and the Netgear Nighthawk


----------



## Mega Man

i had that issue, i went with the nighthawk, as it is a bit faster in the reviews, i have to say i like it, but till recently i could not connect to it with my ac1900 pcie card from asus, without jumping through hoops on my amd, my intel works fine


----------



## kpoeticg

Is that PCIE card faster than what comes on the RIVE BE?

Edit: Also thanks. I'll probly go with the Nighthawk then


----------



## cosmomobay

Hi guys can I join your group.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jahmaka/media/DSCN2252.jpg.html


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Is that PCIE card faster than what comes on the RIVE BE?
> 
> Edit: Also thanks. I'll probly go with the Nighthawk then


kinda, but really no, the one in the BE will max out most any internet connection, so unless you do alot of in network moving of files, the one built in is actually pretty good one day i may get off my bum and wire my house, we will see until then i just buy the best wireless lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Hi guys can I join your group.


welcome !~


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i had that issue, i went with the nighthawk, as it is a bit faster in the reviews, i have to say i like it, but till recently i could not connect to it with my ac1900 pcie card from asus, without jumping through hoops on my amd, my intel works fine


I saw a comparasion of the two on small net builder and most said they had better luck with the Asus so I went with that.
My devices seem to get the full link speed when next to the router but when I move to another room it drops much lower.


----------



## webhito

How long does most peoples board take to post? I find that mine takes a really long time, cold boot is around 10 seconds or so?


----------



## OPTIX ONE

I got the nighthawk as well. Thing looks like its gonna fly away and attack every asteroid on the way to pick up little green men on planet zoltar. I used to have dlink 4500 gaming router. Made the change. So far I have not regretted it. Netgear has not messed up the software end of it either. I have to say I'm pretty impressed.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Hi guys can I join your group.
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jahmaka/media/DSCN2252.jpg.html


Welcome!


----------



## yttocstfarc

What do you guys think? How does my build stack up?
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8052179


----------



## Rosche22

Anyone else have issues with Bluetooth? My board appeared to be working great. I go to use Bluetooth and all it does is disconnect and reconnect including the usb plug unplug noise. I tried a new driver and even reinstalling windows. It will search for a device in windows 8.1 then disconnect. There was 1 point where it found my device but disconnected shortly after. I am on the newest bios. Any ideas?


----------



## Mega Man

did you download the new bluetooth drivers from asus, i have no problems


----------



## King4x4

Strange that you are facing ram problems Luna.... Had some ram stabilitiy issues but a bit of VCCSA volt push and it's rock stable.

Oh yah.... System is running with blocks on!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I need to decide on an AC router soon myself. Trying to decide between the Asus and the Netgear Nighthawk


On my phone but wanted to comment on this if youve got a 150mbs connection or higher then the 1750 or 1900 will benefit you if not then anything 1200+ paired with the ac1200 from the rivbe will qork fine since its rated at 1200.

I have the 1750 pcie on my older rig but there is a speed diff only because i have the faster connection.

As for routers i was hesitant with asus in the beginning but google tomato and theres another firmware i use that enavles enterprise features and tons of others on the asus suck as really tweaking things.

Course there might be one outfor dlink as well. Cant really go wrong with either but verify onboard ram as well more to comment on when i get to a comp.


----------



## Goggle Eye

King4x4 very nice build.

Decided to go with a Rampage lV Black Edition rather than 1150 will post pictures some time after March 12th. Sold the Rampage lll Black Edition & 990X CPU. Thanks for the recommendations.









Is this a good set up on a Rampage lV Black Edition M/Board water blocks XS-PC

CPU I 7 4930K Water Block XS-PC

Ram Team Extream LV 8x4 = 32 _ 2133 Bus CL.11 Hynix MFR _ Water Blocks XS-PC

Or should I use

G.Skillb Trident-X 8x4=32 _ 2133 bus ram using Samsung HCH9 _ Water Blocks XS-PC


----------



## [email protected]

For those of you experiencing OCP related shutdowns, you can try enabling CPU Current Inertia before you change OCP if you wish. This setting is tied to the buck controller, and allows the buck controller to raise voltage when countering a load transient. With it disabled, the current being drawn increases as the voltage stays low, which is why OCP needs to be offset higher that usual. As P=VA we can skin the cat either way on a 24/7 system - there is no difference in either approach in terms of what is better for the CPU (power is a combination of voltage and current, not one without the other), so pick your poison.

Next build 6** onwards will patch the OCP related shutdowns. (should be out soon).

Follow up OC guide with some more simple debugging info and OC stuff (24/7 use) in general: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=

-Raja


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> On my phone but wanted to comment on this if youve got a 150mbs connection or higher then the 1750 or 1900 will benefit you if not then anything 1200+ paired with the ac1200 from the rivbe will qork fine since its rated at 1200.
> 
> I have the 1750 pcie on my older rig but there is a speed diff only because i have the faster connection.
> 
> As for routers i was hesitant with asus in the beginning but google tomato and theres another firmware i use that enavles enterprise features and tons of others on the asus suck as really tweaking things.
> 
> Course there might be one outfor dlink as well. Cant really go wrong with either but verify onboard ram as well more to comment on when i get to a comp.


Thanx for the tips.

I definitely know about Tomato/OpenWRT/DDWRT. I usually flash my routers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> For those of you experiencing OCP related shutdowns, you can try enabling CPU Current Inertia before you change OCP if you wish. This setting is tied to the buck controller, and allows the buck controller to raise voltage when countering a load transient. With it disabled, the current being drawn increases as the voltage stays low, which is why OCP needs to be offset higher that usual. As P=VA we can skin the cat either way on a 24/7 system - there is no difference in either approach in terms of what is better for the CPU (power is a combination of voltage and current, not one without the other), so pick your poison.
> 
> Next build 6** onwards will patch the OCP related shutdowns. (should be out soon).
> 
> Follow up OC guide with some more simple debugging info and OC stuff (24/7 use) in general: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=
> 
> -Raja


OMG, i didn't even think you had an account on here. Good to see you active in this thread. Thanx for the link


----------



## Goggle Eye

Raja

Thank you for the link and guide very informative..


----------



## tistou77

Hello

With a new R4BE, last night I tuned off my PC (power off) and yesterday morning when I started the PC, bios settings were reset to 0.
I have this problem if I turn off the power supply. If I don't turn off it, no problem.

I have no error message for overclock, the only message is "CPU FAN error" (just like after a CMOS).
And all the settings in the bios are by default

So I changed the CMOS battery yesterday, and the same problem this morning

I'll try lowering the overclock but if someone has an idea
Or if the motherboard has a problem?

Thanks for your help


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> For those of you experiencing OCP related shutdowns, you can try enabling CPU Current Inertia before you change OCP if you wish. This setting is tied to the buck controller, and allows the buck controller to raise voltage when countering a load transient. With it disabled, the current being drawn increases as the voltage stays low, which is why OCP needs to be offset higher that usual. As P=VA we can skin the cat either way on a 24/7 system - there is no difference in either approach in terms of what is better for the CPU (power is a combination of voltage and current, not one without the other), so pick your poison.
> 
> Next build 6** onwards will patch the OCP related shutdowns. (should be out soon).
> 
> Follow up OC guide with some more simple debugging info and OC stuff (24/7 use) in general: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=
> 
> -Raja


Thanks! Nice to see you here!


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> For those of you experiencing OCP related shutdowns, you can try enabling CPU Current Inertia before you change OCP if you wish. This setting is tied to the buck controller, and allows the buck controller to raise voltage when countering a load transient. With it disabled, the current being drawn increases as the voltage stays low, which is why OCP needs to be offset higher that usual. As P=VA we can skin the cat either way on a 24/7 system - there is no difference in either approach in terms of what is better for the CPU (power is a combination of voltage and current, not one without the other), so pick your poison.
> 
> Next build 6** onwards will patch the OCP related shutdowns. (should be out soon).
> 
> Follow up OC guide with some more simple debugging info and OC stuff (24/7 use) in general: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=
> 
> -Raja


If I put together a small and to the point list of bugs will you look into them?
I know of at least half a dozen.


----------



## Rosche22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> did you download the new bluetooth drivers from asus, i have no problems


Yes I did, I'm starting to think I have a defective board


----------



## Dantrax

Raja My Nortons Antivirus blocked an attack from the Webpage you posted. I don't know if it's really a virus or whatever, but that's what Nortons said. Just letting you know.







Web attack: Malicious SWF Download 8


----------



## gdubc

^this is a common occurrence on the asus site.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> For those of you experiencing OCP related shutdowns, you can try enabling CPU Current Inertia before you change OCP if you wish. This setting is tied to the buck controller, and allows the buck controller to raise voltage when countering a load transient. With it disabled, the current being drawn increases as the voltage stays low, which is why OCP needs to be offset higher that usual. As P=VA we can skin the cat either way on a 24/7 system - there is no difference in either approach in terms of what is better for the CPU (power is a combination of voltage and current, not one without the other), so pick your poison.
> 
> Next build 6** onwards will patch the OCP related shutdowns. (should be out soon).
> 
> Follow up OC guide with some more simple debugging info and OC stuff (24/7 use) in general: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=
> 
> -Raja


Great guide for the basics. One thing, though, is that I'd like to see a bit more explanation in your guides relating to memory timings, and specifics as to how to deal with memory OC issues that commonly arise. (Each IC has characteristics that require different approaches. Covering that information would be a great contribution to the OC community as a whole).

Oh, and please more 8 GB DIMM profiles in BIOS. PUH-LEEZE!

Otherwise, my review says everything I want to.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Great guide for the basics. One thing, though, is that I'd like to see a bit more explanation in your guides relating to memory timings, and specifics as to how to deal with memory OC issues that commonly arise. (Each IC has characteristics that require different approaches. Covering that information would be a great contribution to the OC community as a whole).
> 
> Oh, and please more 8 GB DIMM profiles in BIOS. PUH-LEEZE!
> 
> Otherwise, my review says everything I want to.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Great guide for the basics. One thing, though, is that I'd like to see a bit more explanation in your guides relating to memory timings, and specifics as to how to deal with memory OC issues that commonly arise. (Each IC has characteristics that require different approaches. Covering that information would be a great contribution to the OC community as a whole).
> 
> Oh, and please more 8 GB DIMM profiles in BIOS. PUH-LEEZE!
> 
> Otherwise, my review says everything I want to.


I don't have all the ICs here at home - so that might not be possible. TBH, between the info I have given in the R4E guide, and these two, everyone should be able to dial out their memory issues. Start with third timings, then work upwards.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I don't have all the ICs here at home - so that might not be possible. TBH, between the info I have given in the R4E guide, and these two, everyone should be able to dial out their memory issues. Start with third timings, then work upwards.


Of course. I mean, after all, we both say the same things, really, when it comes to OC, just my approach to optimizations is very different than your own.

I mean, anyone can load up one of the profiles offered for their ICs, and go from there, but when top-shelf parts are used, you leave users with no option but to use the worst timings possible...and then spend hours upon hours testing. For me, that's fine... that's what I enjoy out of system tweaking, but going by posts here in this thread, there are many users simply lost amongst it all. I do try to answer most memory-related questions, but I think you might have more experience...but less time...so anything is useful, if you know what I mean.

Memory OC'ing is just that one thing that gets ZERO attention except by benchers, really, and bench timings are 24/7 timings usually aren't the same.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Of course. I mean, after all, we both say the same things, really, when it comes to OC, just my approach to optimizations is very different than your own.
> 
> I mean, anyone can load up one of the profiles offered for their ICs, and go from there, but when top-shelf parts are used, you leave users with no option but to use the worst timings possible...and then spend hours upon hours testing. For me, that's fine... that's what I enjoy out of system tweaking, but going by posts here in this thread, there are many users simply lost amongst it all. I do try to answer most memory-related questions, but I think you might have more experience...but less time...so anything is useful, if you know what I mean.
> 
> Memory OC'ing is just that one thing that gets ZERO attention except by benchers, really, and bench timings are 24/7 timings usually aren't the same.


Appreciate the feedback.

The guides are written for 24/7 use, and timing ranges I suggest are based on 24/7 usage and I know perfectly well one cannot use benching timings on 24/7 setups. The guides do not focus on benching setttings as a result (maybe some folks have misconceptions based upon the way I write)...

I generally advise 24/7 users not to purchase memory kits that fall into the realms of requiring a fantastic IMC to run. Given the part to part variance, we have to start the users at worst case scenario and tweak down. One has to accept that responsibility if inclined to purchase the fastest parts available (quite often those parts aren't the fastest as the sweetspot lies lower down).

I make myself available for user needing advanced help with memory on ROG. The type of users that want plug-and-play need hand holding on a case by case basis. The guides could never give them full tweaking info without them putting in elbow grease to get from a-b.

-Raja


----------



## kpoeticg

Your guides are great Raja. Speaking as some1 who's a n00b to OC'ing, your guides are extremely helpful. So is cadaveca's advice in this thread. I'm one of the people who has no idea what he's doing when bios tweaking, and you both have helped me more than i can say.

It's good to see you here showing some OCN support tho. Not all of us are real active on the rog forums. Some of us due to a stupid argument a few months ago. Hope to see you around here more....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Your guides are great Raja. Speaking as some1 who's a n00b to OC'ing, your guides are extremely helpful. So is cadaveca's advice in this thread. I'm one of the people who has no idea what he's doing when bios tweaking, and you both have helped me more than i can say.
> 
> It's good to see you here showing some OCN support tho. Not all of us are real active on the rog forums. Some of us due to a stupid argument a few months ago. Hope to see you around here more....


+1


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning:.......!


----------



## kpoeticg

ROFL!!!!!

I was waiting for that


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I mean, anyone can load up one of the profiles offered for their ICs, and go from there


Pretty much the way to do it. As long as cpu's imc can scale up then most mem. profiles should work on any capable ram sticks with only vdimm adjustment needed. If the ram can't go for specific profiles then adjustment is necessary on primary timings and latency boundaries settings. No need to tweak secondary and tertiary timings.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Pretty much the way to do it. As long as cpu's imc can scale up then most mem. profiles should work on any capable ram sticks with only vdimm adjustment needed. If the ram can't go for specific profiles then adjustment is necessary on primary timings and latency boundaries settings. No need to tweak secondary and tertiary timings.


Unless it's 8 GB sticks, which have no profiles.


















I mean, if we go by Raja's guide directly, it would not be doing as you say.. it'd be hitting the tertiary first. Which makes my comments exist in the first place.

Since we are close to the end of DDR3...if this stuff isn't dealt with...well, it never will be. Hopefully DDR4 will have more users interest?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> As long as cpu's imc can scale up then most mem. profiles should work on any capable ram sticks with only vdimm adjustment needed.


And therein lies the rub. One needs to know if the IMC can do it and also has to bear in mind that most users that we need to guide want their DRAM to work at stated primary specs and rated VDIMM.

The Latency boundary has four settings this time - and the disparity can be wide at each setting. So tweaking the thirds to get some of the perf back is advised. I assume a person that does want to adjust memory settings does care about the perf (otherwise why adjust anything in the first place?)

Most users want to keep their primary settings at the stated DRAM spec, so we start with the third set and work upwards. Outright stability and performance is heavily dependent on the third set due to these new platforms having a high number of page hits so I prefer to dial out insatbility there before I resort to asking people to ramp voltages beyond board auto rules.

-Raja


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> And therein lies the rub. One needs to know if the IMC can do it and also has to bear in mind that most users that we need to guide want their DRAM to work at stated primary specs and rated VDIMM.
> 
> The Latency boundary has four settings this time - and the disparity can be wide at each setting. So tweaking the thirds to get some of the perf back is advised. I assume a person that does want to adjust memory settings does care about the perf (otherwise why adjust anything in the first place? Most users want to keep their primary settings at the stated DRAM spec, so we start with the third set and work upwards. Outright stability and performance is heavily dependent on the third set due to these new platforms having a high number of page hits.
> 
> -Raja


Please don't take my comments the wrong way. I'm merely trying to discuss things that both myself and users might have interest in.

So, anyway...

Why adjust anything?

Because it doesn't work right unless you do, perhaps? There's a memory review posted to the front page of my website... and that kit works very poorly on this board without manual timing adjustment. I know what to change.. and why.. so no big deal...

But other than centvalny here and myself, very few others seem to know what to do, and the board doesn't work right.

Take a look a bit back at the posts between LunaP and myself getting his kit working... I basically followed the same sort of steps you suggest, so we are definitely in agreement on most stuff, but users should have problems like this. Your guide does cover how to deal with that exact problem a bit...bit doesn't tell users how to know that the problem they face is really a matter of CPU quality, or whatever. With taking the approach to setting timings very loosely...doesn't help at all.

Should you, in such an instance, blame the memory, or the CPU? Or the board?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> But other than centvalny here and myself, very few others seem to know what to do, and the board doesn't work right.


Of course, and rather than choose a lower operating point the user wants the DRAM to work as advertised or faster. That's why they make adjustments in the DRAM section.

And that's why I wrote the guides the way I did







There is method there to get the kits that won't work on auto working. I do it in a way where people don't worry about degradation due to VCCSA or VTT being ramped higher than some would like (that's a big fear I have to combat in some users).

Nothing personal at all


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Of course, and rather than choose a lower operating point the user wnats the DRAM to work as advertised or faster. That's why they make adjustments int he DRAM section.
> 
> And thats why I wrote the guides the way I did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing personal at all


Yeah, I understand that. But we clearly have many users that are interested in more...how do we give them that? How do we take a "normal" user into an LN2 user?

I'd very much like to see the foundation for that to be developed with OEM support. I'm not talking OC league..or anything competitive. HWBot just doesn't meet my needs.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Of course, and rather than choose a lower operating point the user wants the DRAM to work as advertised or faster. That's why they make adjustments in the DRAM section.
> 
> And that's why I wrote the guides the way I did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is method there to get the kits that won't work on auto working. I do it in a way where people don't worry about degradation due to VCCSA or VTT being ramped higher than some would like (that's a big fear I have to combat in some users). If they are still stuck then we walk them through it.
> 
> Nothing personal at all


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, I understand that. But we clearly have many users that are interested in more...how do we give them that? How do we take a "normal" user into an LN2 user?
> 
> I'd very much like to see the foundation for that to be developed with OEM support. I'm not talking OC league..or anything competitive. HWBot just doesn't meet my needs.


Most of the guys I meet just want their rigs to work as they think they should (the Ln2 types or even those that will get into it are a very small percentage). I spend more time helping the types that just want a working system (even with a killer rig) than those that are looking at getting into tweaking as a hobby or have ambitions for Ln2.


----------



## SeanEboy

Hey guise! Finally got my scheit together, and alas, my first post!



http://imgur.com/ILLHvqX




http://imgur.com/krJpr9b



Can't wait to start tweaking this thing.. Saw so many options in the bios!!


----------



## Mulle1991

Hello all..

i just godt my new system up and running..

4930k
R4BE
32gb TridentX 2400MHz
2x EVGA gtx 680 classified SLI
everything is watercooled.

i just ran Valley Benchmark.

1920x1080
High
1 display
Antialising OFF

On my MSI bigbang Xpower was the score 6100 (AVG FPS 146) Both GPUS runs at 98 - 99%

Now on R4BE same settings 4200, (AVG FPS 106) and now the GPUS just runs at 50-70%

And BF4 for example runs like S- - - !!?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Most of the guys I meet just want their rigs to work as they think they should (the Ln2 types or even those that will get into it are a very small percentage). I spend more time helping the types that just want a working system (even with a killer rig) than those that are looking at getting into tweaking as a hobby or have ambitions for Ln2.


I know. You work for ASUS. I work for an enthusiast website, and the majority of people that I talk to want to bench. We have many threads on every web forum dedicated to tech for expressly that purpose, and the one common theme that is presented by users travelling down that path is how to tweak memory. I can easily show you my PMs here, even, of exactly that.

These users do exist, so that's why I asked for this...in the future. If you'd like to work together toward meeting ASUS users needs, we can talk about that too.


----------



## [email protected]

Unfortunately the real number of benching enthusiasts is rather small in comparison to the customers that come to us asking for help so I'll have to focus my available time on that for now. There is quite a bit of DRAM timing info in the R4E and Maximus guides should someone want to run with a more benching oriented guide.

-Raja


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Unfortunately the real number of benching enthusiasts is rather small in comparison to the customers that come to us asking for help so I'll have to focus my available time on that for now. There is quite a bit of DRAM timing info in the R4E and Maximus guides should someone want to run with a more benching oriented guide.
> 
> -Raja


OK. I mean, it is really understandable. You have bosses to please.

I'm just trying to grow our industry. At the same time, please do not think that my personal opinions are that of our website...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> OK. I mean, it is really understandable. You have bosses to please.
> 
> I'm just trying to grow our industry. At the same time, please do not think that my personal opinions are that of our website...


Not at all. This isn't about bosses as much as it is about the reality of what people are doing with PCs these days and what their expectations are of how easy it should be my friend. And there is enough info there for someone to run with if they want.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Not at all. This isn't about bosses as much as it is about the reality of what people are doing with PCs these days and what their expectations are of how easy it should be my friend. And there is enough info there for someone to run with if they want.


true enough. Like 100%, cannot argue against that at all.

I just think that if we can pave the roads for user to travel down well, their journey will be long, and enjoyable. Many users have tried to travel towards more extreme OC'ing, and most will say they had difficulty at some point. I just want to eliminate those roadblocks.

I mean, the number of "pro" benchers that are using my timing tweaks, because they cannot find the info they need...is really shocking to me.









Like...that's many users only option...to ask me...and when I point them to your guides....they all come back.










So, this is what I have been told is lacking.

It's not like the site I do reviews for caters to an extreme audience...


----------



## [email protected]

Most IO timings are limited by 4 clocks min due to DRAM bus width (read and write transactions). One can also plug most timings into the formula I give in the DRAM pages to work out the latency in ns. It should be quite straightforward for die-hard benchers to be honest with you.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Most IO timings are limited by 4 clocks min due to DRAM bus width (read and write transactions). One can also plug most timings into the formula I give in the DRAM pages to work out the latency in ns. It should be quite straightforward for die-hard benchers to be honest with you.


Yeah, you'd think so.

Unfortunately, that's not always the case.

Like, you give such great info...I'm sorry if I want more.


----------



## [email protected]

Well I don't hold it against you for asking


----------



## Mulle1991

Hello all..

i just godt my new system up and running..

4930k
R4BE
32gb TridentX 2400MHz
2x EVGA gtx 680 classified SLI
everything is watercooled.

i just ran Valley Benchmark.

1920x1080
High
1 display
Antialising OFF

On my MSI bigbang Xpower was the score 6100 (AVG FPS 146) Both GPUS runs at 98 - 99%

Now on R4BE same settings 4200, (AVG FPS 106) and now the GPUS just runs at 50-70%

And BF4 for example runs like S- - - !!?


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Hey guise! Finally got my scheit together, and alas, my first post!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ILLHvqX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/krJpr9b
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to start tweaking this thing.. Saw so many options in the bios!!


Very Nice & welcome


----------



## axiumone

Newegg has a few open box black editions if anyone is interested. Price isnt bad for an open box either - 399.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132053R


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Hello all..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> i just godt my new system up and running..
> 
> 4930k
> R4BE
> 32gb TridentX 2400MHz
> 2x EVGA gtx 680 classified SLI
> everything is watercooled.
> 
> i just ran Valley Benchmark.
> 
> 1920x1080
> High
> 1 display
> Antialising OFF
> 
> On my MSI bigbang Xpower was the score 6100 (AVG FPS 146) Both GPUS runs at 98 - 99%
> 
> Now on R4BE same settings 4200, (AVG FPS 106) and now the GPUS just runs at 50-70%
> 
> 
> And BF4 for example runs like S- - - !!?


Not really sure what to tell you... This board requires a good bit more manual tweaking than other boards, it takes some time to sort things out... Did you happen change operating systems? Windows 8 has been known to not get along with Valley. Did you check your Nvidia drivers? Did you make sure you have "prefer maximum power" set? Did you happen to force V-sync in the NV control panel? That would cause low GPU usage, did you check to make sure V-sync isn't on inside of the bench mark? Did you check to make sure you don't have riva-tuner set to cap @ 60fps?


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not really sure what to tell you... This board requires a good bit more manual tweaking than other boards, it takes some time to sort things out... Did you happen change operating systems? Windows 8 has been known to not get along with Valley. Did you check your Nvidia drivers? Did you make sure you have "prefer maximum power" set? Did you happen to force V-sync in the NV control panel? That would cause low GPU usage, did you check to make sure V-sync isn't on inside of the bench mark? Did you check to make sure you don't have riva-tuner set to cap @ 60fps?


Dont wont to go Win 8..

Tried diffrend drivers for GPUS. noting seems to help.
Prefer M power dosent help.
Vsync is off
And the fps is not 60?


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Dont wont to go Win 8..
> 
> Tried diffrend drivers for GPUS. noting seems to help.
> Prefer M power dosent help.
> Vsync is off
> And the fps is not 60?


And you connected the Molex 4 Pin at the bottom of the MB? Both 4Pin ant 8 CPU CPU power at the top?


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> And you connected the Molex 4 Pin at the bottom of the MB? Both 4Pin ant 8 CPU CPU power at the top?


4pin Molex, no only got 2 GPUS not 4

And yes 4 and 8pin at the top is connected


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> 4pin Molex, no only got 2 GPUS not 4
> 
> And yes 4 and 8pin at the top is connected


try it. I have 1 GPU and still connected the Molex. Otherwise reseat the SLI bridge. What's the score with SLI off?


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> try it. I have 1 GPU and still connected the Molex. Otherwise reseat the SLI bridge. What's the score with SLI off?


tried the Molex, no diffrents.

i give it a try but nothing is changing


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> tried the Molex, no diffrents.
> 
> i give it a try but nothing is changing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> try it. I have 1 GPU and still connected the Molex. Otherwise reseat the SLI bridge. What's the score with SLI off?


tried sli bridge off, Now the 1 GPU Running 98- 99% Usage? almost all the time,

Then whats the problem
The sli bridge worked perfectly on same GPUS on my MSI BigBang Xpower 2?


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> tried sli bridge off, Now the 1 GPU Running 98- 99% Usage? almost all the time,
> 
> Then whats the problem
> The sli bridge worked perfectly on same GPUS on my MSI BigBang Xpower 2?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> tried the Molex, no diffrents.
> 
> i give it a try but nothing is changing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> try it. I have 1 GPU and still connected the Molex. Otherwise reseat the SLI bridge. What's the score with SLI off?


The Score in Valley benchmark with one card is 3000-3100


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> The Score in Valley benchmark with one card is 3000-3100


are you on different video drivers on this board, than with your previous board? Allot of the new drivers do exactly what you are telling us is happening.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> The Score in Valley benchmark with one card is 3000-3100


Clean install or you simply transferred the HDD from the MSI gear? The installing only 1 GPU at a time and compare each. What's the specs for the rest of the system? Temps are ok on both GPU?


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> are you on different video drivers on this board, than with your previous board? Allot of the new drivers do exactly what you are telling us is happening.


Tried diffrent drivers. and the same at i allways use 331:82

And older then that wont let me play BF4


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Clean install or you simply transferred the HDD from the MSI gear? The installing only 1 GPU at a time and compare each. What's the specs for the rest of the system? Temps are ok on both GPU?


Temps are 26 and 28Deggree on the GPUS at Idle, And 36-40 on load

and Clean install

4930k
R4BE
32gb tridentX 2400mhz
Evga 1300 G2


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I'll give you the "Raja" answer - The R4BE was made/optimized for Ivy-E not Sandy-E. R4E would be a better mobo to run 3930/3960.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Why?
> 
> And no i am running 3960x 4.6Ghz
> 
> About the PhysX i realy dont know,
> The Benchmarks i was running at the GPUs was Valley Benchmark.
> 
> for exmple
> 
> when i used my MSI Xpower 2 the score was about 6035
> 
> Now on the Asus board the score is 5570
> and a lower fps.
> 
> Why?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> i just want this to run ok for now.
> 
> ill buy a Ivy-E a little later så dont worry


well now i got 4930K 4.6Ghz 1.21V
TridentX 2400Mhz,

but the GPU performance is still Crappy compared to my MSI BigBang Xpower 2...

still havent found a solution for this issue


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> well now i got 4930K 4.6Ghz 1.21V
> TridentX 2400Mhz,
> 
> but the GPU performance is still Crappy compared to my MSI BigBang Xpower 2...
> 
> still havent found a solution for this issue


THAT is a GOOD chip! >__>

-jealous-


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> THAT is a GOOD chip! >__>
> 
> -jealous-


hehe thanks









im pretty happy with the chip, But not the Rampage IV black Edition Motherboard









can solve my Gpu (SLI) performance/Usage issue :'(


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> well now i got 4930K 4.6Ghz 1.21V
> TridentX 2400Mhz,
> 
> but the GPU performance is still Crappy compared to my MSI BigBang Xpower 2...
> 
> still havent found a solution for this issue


Did you verify that the bios was set for PCI-E GEN3? Might help to reflash the bios after replacing the CPU. You'll also have to reinstall Windows for DRM to work again after replacing CPU. Otherwise netflix or some other video playback will refuse to work.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> hehe thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im pretty happy with the chip, But not the Rampage IV black Edition Motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can solve my Gpu (SLI) performance/Usage issue :'(


Had this too initially.

1) Reseat all power cables to your cards as well as the same cables on the PSU. Ensure they're in place on the board

2) What's your PSU W?

3) Go in bios and under DRAM Timings look @ GPU post settings, verify they're in PCIE 3 vs 1/2 also verify it's seeing them correctly.

4) Try w/ the SLI bridge that came w/ the asus board to verify there's not a contact issue on the evga

5) Since you're using multiple titans, use the driver uninstaller first, then install 332 whql vs 334

6) Any custom bios? what are the settings default on the card currently?

7) For lulz verify the power setting in the control panel is set to max power (I've seen it happen especially w/ EPU)


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> hehe thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im pretty happy with the chip, But not the Rampage IV black Edition Motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can solve my Gpu (SLI) performance/Usage issue :'(


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Did you verify that the bios was set for PCI-E GEN3? Might help to reflash the bios after replacing the CPU. You'll also have to reinstall Windows for DRM to work again after replacing CPU. Otherwise netflix or some other video playback will refuse to work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Had this too initially.
> 
> 1) Reseat all power cables to your cards as well as the same cables on the PSU. Ensure they're in place on the board
> 
> 2) What's your PSU W?
> 
> 3) Go in bios and under DRAM Timings look @ GPU post settings, verify they're in PCIE 3 vs 1/2 also verify it's seeing them correctly.
> 
> 4) Try w/ the SLI bridge that came w/ the asus board to verify there's not a contact issue on the evga
> 
> 5) Since you're using multiple titans, use the driver uninstaller first, then install 332 whql vs 334
> 
> 6) Any custom bios? what are the settings default on the card currently?
> 
> 7) For lulz verify the power setting in the control panel is set to max power (I've seen it happen especially w/ EPU)


1) Done

2) PSU: EVGA supernova 1300 G2

3) Pcie 3.0

4) Sli bridge (Asus/EVGA) tested maks no difference

5) ?? Dont understand sorry

6) Stock bios on both cards

7) tried that no luck


----------



## cosmomobay

#5) Download this and uninstall your drivers then go to safe mode and use this software to remove all leftover NVidia drivers. Remove your Ethernet cable so windows doesn't auto install the drivers. Now you should have windows basic video drivers. Now install the latest NVidia drivers you save somewhere on your computer. When everything is up and running plug your Ethernet cable back in.

http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/display_driver_uninstaller_download.html


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> #5) Download this and uninstall your drivers then go to safe mode and use this software to remove all leftover NVidia drivers. Remove your Ethernet cable so windows doesn't auto install the drivers. Now you should have windows basic video drivers. Now install the latest NVidia drivers you save somewhere on your computer. When everything is up and running plug your Ethernet cable back in.
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/display_driver_uninstaller_download.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Had this too initially.
> 
> 1) Reseat all power cables to your cards as well as the same cables on the PSU. Ensure they're in place on the board
> 
> 2) What's your PSU W?
> 
> 3) Go in bios and under DRAM Timings look @ GPU post settings, verify they're in PCIE 3 vs 1/2 also verify it's seeing them correctly.
> 
> 4) Try w/ the SLI bridge that came w/ the asus board to verify there's not a contact issue on the evga
> 
> 5) Since you're using multiple titans, use the driver uninstaller first, then install 332 whql vs 334
> 
> 6) Any custom bios? what are the settings default on the card currently?
> 
> 7) For lulz verify the power setting in the control panel is set to max power (I've seen it happen especially w/ EPU)


Didnt help. now we dont to 4200 in valley benchmark score and still lower Fps :/


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Didnt help. now we dont to 4200 in valley benchmark score and still lower Fps :/


Best bet,

go into bios or swap to the 2ndary bios so you don't lose your settings, then set optimized defaults and save. Shut down and start back up go into windows and test, after which if issue still persists use the dip switches on the board to disable a card. Test both in single ( YOU MUST DISABLE THE OTHERS ) and see if results jump, see if there's a faulty card by chance.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> #5) Download this and uninstall your drivers then go to safe mode and use this software to remove all leftover NVidia drivers. Remove your Ethernet cable so windows doesn't auto install the drivers. Now you should have windows basic video drivers. Now install the latest NVidia drivers you save somewhere on your computer. When everything is up and running plug your Ethernet cable back in.
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/display_driver_uninstaller_download.html


didnt help at all


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Best bet,
> 
> go into bios or swap to the 2ndary bios so you don't lose your settings, then set optimized defaults and save. Shut down and start back up go into windows and test, after which if issue still persists use the dip switches on the board to disable a card. Test both in single ( YOU MUST DISABLE THE OTHERS ) and see if results jump, see if there's a faulty card by chance.


i will try that but i know for sure that both cards works 1000% perfectly.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Best bet,
> 
> go into bios or swap to the 2ndary bios so you don't lose your settings, then set optimized defaults and save. Shut down and start back up go into windows and test, after which if issue still persists use the dip switches on the board to disable a card. Test both in single ( YOU MUST DISABLE THE OTHERS ) and see if results jump, see if there's a faulty card by chance.



First test on first GPU

MB Bios 0403


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> 
> First test on first GPU
> 
> MB Bios 0403




second test Second GPU.
Same settings
MB bios 0403


----------



## skupples

so, first test GPU usage is 98%, send GPU, in what I assume is the second slot, is getting 50%... You may have found your problem...


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> so, first test GPU usage is 98%, send GPU, in what I assume is the second slot, is getting 50%... You may have found your problem...


Nope Both gpus were testes.

Both runs at 90-99 all the time. single card test..


This is my sli test, for now most of my performance seems to be back? But dont think the problem is solved


----------



## Raghar

Open NVidiainspector. Run some GPU intensive benchmark and look at the rightmost number in interface tab. If it's 2.0 as in my case then this is your problem. (actually perhaps not, but it might give a hint)

BTW Cadaveca I'm currious about 0208 BIOS, can I play with it without risking a board and the CPU?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Open NVidiainspector. Run some GPU intensive benchmark and look at the rightmost number in interface tab. If it's 2.0 as in my case then this is your problem. (actually perhaps not, but it might give a hint)
> 
> BTW Cadaveca I'm currious about 0208 BIOS, can I play with it without risking a board and the CPU?


Worked fine for me, but I noticed no differences at all. centvalny mention it was exactly the same as the release BIOS, so I understand you might be curious.. but it might be a waste of time to try.

I have it sitting on my back-up BIOS, anyway, swapped re-flashes ROG1/ROG2 (monitoring/SuperI/O) bios, AFAIK, so that that stuff works properly, as that's the only thing I noticed.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nope Both gpus were testes.
> 
> Both runs at 90-99 all the time. single card test..
> 
> 
> This is my sli test, for now most of my performance seems to be back? But dont think the problem is solved


I'm talking about your last two posts.




one shows 98% usage, one shows 49% usage.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm talking about your last two posts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one shows 98% usage, one shows 49% usage.


Dude thats after the benchmark was finnished...

and again both GPUS are working Perfectly on my MSI Bigbang Xpower 2. so the Gpus is not the issue here


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Worked fine for me, but I noticed no differences at all. centvalny mention it was exactly the same as the release BIOS, so I understand you might be curious.. but it might be a waste of time to try.
> 
> I have it sitting on my back-up BIOS, anyway, swapped re-flashes ROG1/ROG2 (monitoring/SuperI/O) bios, AFAIK, so that that stuff works properly, as that's the only thing I noticed.


Oh CAD, had to back down on timings since after I'd finish playing a game if I'd exit it'd crash the computer in a BSOD. I changed timings to 10-11-11-28 and now I've had no issues for the past few days. I may try 9-11-11-28 but for now this works well, and about the same speeds on bench.


----------



## eduncan911

Hey guys. I tried reading and searching for a while in this thread (and google) and didn't find an answer.

So what does BIOS 0507 bring with it?

I am rock stable 0403 and judging Asus by previous BIOS releases of top-end boards, I don't know if I'd try to upgrade.

Mainly, I am looking for the CPU Min Duty Cycle to change from their *** setting of 20% to hopefully 0%.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Hey guys. I tried reading and searching for a while in this thread (and google) and didn't find an answer.
> 
> So what does BIOS 0507 bring with it?
> 
> I am rock stable 0403 and judging Asus by previous BIOS releases of top-end boards, I don't know if I'd try to upgrade.
> 
> Mainly, I am looking for the CPU Min Duty Cycle to change from their *** setting of 20% to hopefully 0%.


Slightly better mem timings/improvements to stability and profiles.

Add's the vtD option back for running VM's.

06xx is coming out within the week according to Raja so if you're running rock stable then no reason unless you just wanna run 64bit VM's


----------



## eduncan911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Hey guys. I tried reading and searching for a while in this thread (and google) and didn't find an answer.
> 
> So what does BIOS 0507 bring with it?
> 
> I am rock stable 0403 and judging Asus by previous BIOS releases of top-end boards, I don't know if I'd try to upgrade.
> 
> Mainly, I am looking for the CPU Min Duty Cycle to change from their *** setting of 20% to hopefully 0%.
> 
> 
> 
> Slightly better mem timings/improvements to stability and profiles.
> 
> Add's the vtD option back for running VM's.
> 
> 06xx is coming out within the week according to Raja so if you're running rock stable then no reason unless you just wanna run 64bit VM's
Click to expand...

I already run 64-bit VMs using VMware 9. I have two 64-bit VMs: Windows 8.1 Pro x64 (I use for development) and a Debian 6 install (also for development).

So not sure what that means... With VTd disabled, VMware won't even load/start the VM (been there done that on other PCs).


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Hey guys. I tried reading and searching for a while in this thread (and google) and didn't find an answer.
> 
> So what does BIOS 0507 bring with it?


0403 hate LoVo RAM and tries to run them at 1.7 V when you are doing CMOS reset. 0507 is more sane in this case, it uses 1.5 V. It also allows vt-d, if you are one of few who desperately needs it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Worked fine for me, but I noticed no differences at all. centvalny mention it was exactly the same as the release BIOS, so I understand you might be curious.. but it might be a waste of time to try.


It would be entertaining, thus I'd play with it on weekend or when I'd have spare time.


----------



## eduncan911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Hey guys. I tried reading and searching for a while in this thread (and google) and didn't find an answer.
> 
> So what does BIOS 0507 bring with it?
> 
> 
> 
> 0403 hate LoVo RAM and tries to run them at 1.7 V when you are doing CMOS reset. 0507 is more sane in this case, it uses 1.5 V. It also allows vt-d, if you are one of few who desperately needs it.
Click to expand...

Thanks, but as I posted just 1 post above yours... I have been using VT-d with x64 bit VMs ever since I got my board in November without any issues. VMware refuses to load any VM without it.

Maybe 0507 puts a "switch" in there, allowing it to be turned off? Could have sworn I saw it in my BIOS already though.

Nice to know about memory.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Thanks, but as I posted just 1 post above yours... I have been using VT-d with x64 bit VMs ever since I got my board in November without any issues. VMware refuses to load any VM without it.
> 
> Maybe 0507 puts a "switch" in there, allowing it to be turned off? Could have sworn I saw it in my BIOS already though.
> 
> Nice to know about memory.


Was confused by your post till I read this one, yes it adds the option in the bios so you can enable/disable.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Dude thats after the benchmark was finnished...
> 
> and again both GPUS are working Perfectly on my MSI Bigbang Xpower 2. so the Gpus is not the issue here


I'm glad you resolved it. I ran valley a few times, my GPU usage doesn't drop down after the timed section of the test finishes.


----------



## strong island 1

man this motherboard is so awesome. It has absolutely no cold boot issues and is amazing for extreme overclocking. I never realized how amazing an accessory the oc panel is. It read both my temp sensors great and is very fast at displaying the temps. Plus being able to oc right from windows without a stupid program is amazing. I really fell in love with this board once i finally tried ln2.

It really makes you realize why all the features are there and how useful they really are. I know it's hard to see the board under there but it's there. The oc panel saved me a lot of money because good temp readers are expensive.


----------



## skupples




----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> man this motherboard is so awesome.


Thanks for sharing! That in and of itself is why I love the board so much, but few seem to use it that way!


----------



## Errorist66

Question about CPU strap and voltage. I noticed that the VCCSA is set to 1.0v when I strap at 125MHz.36X ) So the voltage increase to the CPU and the VCCSA is more related to the multiplier than to the end frequency? Trying to get closer to 5GHz with the higher strap but I seam to get into max power exceeded land quickly (MB turns off).

I guess my mistake was to try to use the same VCore VCCSA to get above 4.8GHZ with the 125MHz strap as with the 100MHz strap.

Any thought? (having fun but don't want to fry this baby too quickly







)

Thanks.


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm glad you resolved it. I ran valley a few times, my GPU usage doesn't drop down after the timed section of the test finishes.


Strange.
well why then,.


----------



## [email protected]

UEFI 0602 beta for anyone that wants to test. Some changes to current sensing for OCP (leave on auto to test), and some 125 strap changes for SNB-E (still evaluating the latter). No other changes.

My personal media fire account link for download: https://www.mediafire.com/?7qw9wjnz88g570p

-Raja


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> UEFI 0602 beta for anyone that wants to test. Some changes to current sensing for OCP (leave on auto to test), and some 125 strap changes for SNB-E (still evaluating the latter). No other changes.
> 
> My personal media fire account link for download: https://www.mediafire.com/?7qw9wjnz88g570p
> 
> -Raja


Thanks, will definitely test this, should get my 4x8 GB Dominator GTs back from RMA before end of the week.

If this fixes the sudden shutdown issues that's great news.


----------



## Ajay57

Just wanted to join the club, even though i have posted a few times on here!!







Ajay57 05/03/14.

Regards to all.


----------



## skupples

Welcome aboard!


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> UEFI 0602 beta for anyone that wants to test. Some changes to current sensing for OCP (leave on auto to test), and some 125 strap changes for SNB-E (still evaluating the latter). No other changes.


My PC didn't explode.
That 37 read speed and 45 write speed is still here.
PCI-E 3.0 link speed running only at 2.0 speed without hack is on Asus side or on NVidia side? Though I didn't reboot PC after I installed newest drivers, I rebooted PC after I applied the hack.

At weekend I'd retest strap changes how much they affects Ivy-E 4820K.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> UEFI 0602 beta for anyone that wants to test. Some changes to current sensing for OCP (leave on auto to test), and some 125 strap changes for SNB-E (still evaluating the latter). No other changes.
> 
> My personal media fire account link for download: https://www.mediafire.com/?7qw9wjnz88g570p
> 
> -Raja


Appreciate the change long, that was missing on the 0504 version sadly so had us all wondering. Curious since this is beta, are there any tests being performed for 8gb stick kits? Since this is mostly SB-E related I"ll stick to 0504 I guess till anything else is mentioned.

My curiosity is due to the fact that my chip oddly can hit 4.5ghz at as low as 1.225 stable but I keep it @ 1.25 just in case since I do long sessions. Currently I've been attempting to go above 4.5 ghz but have failed even at 4.6ghz going as high as 1.475v and 1.5v testing for up to 4.9 and 5.0 all of which appear to lock up the system during the windows loading screen, after which I need to reset the bios to optimized before I can get back in seeing as if I just go back into bios an reload my older profile OR just set the settings back to 4.5 or even stock it will still lock up.

I've tested this with both 32gb and 64gb and the same results, I've gone down to 16gb with my Trident X's 2x8gb to verify if it was IMC related or not.

VCCSA at max was 1.275 along with VTT @ 1.3 They're now back to much lower settings.

Currently I'm running 64gb @ 2133 @ 4.5ghz w/ no issue @ 1.25v for CPU, so my question I guess is , would this be an issue specific to the board? Early bios? Or is there somewhere else I should start looking in the bios to tweak?

I've read on the ROG forums of some people running 4.8 and 4.9 easily w/ 64gb 2133, so mainly lowered the RAM usage and timings/speed ( 1333) to verify if it was IMC related or not, but appears to be regardless of what is set in that aspect.

So given that information, (and cadaveca has been an ENORMOUS help in this thread and a great mentor ) what suggestions would you say on something like this ( I'm sure its a pretty rare case given we're within the 1% )

Appreciate your input.


----------



## Ajay57

Thanks skupples i hope we can become good friends!! And i already know you have a great understanding of how these Mobo's work, which to me is a big help my friend.
















Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## [email protected]

LunaP

1) It is beta cos I rolled it out early for forums - I made the call as I felt it was fine on my system. If you want to wait for "official" release that is fine.

2) I have Corsair's 64GB kit running at DDR3-2133 on my own board here at home. No issues so far, just loaded XMP and went.

3) Not sure on you not being able to run more than 4.5G. VCore, VCCSA and VTT is really all these CPUs need to get from A-B for raw freq. Any time I have gone over 4.5G on CPUs that are capable, one gets to the desktop...

-Raja


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Thanks skupples i hope we can become good friends!! And i already know you have a great understanding of how these Mobo's work, which to me is a big help my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.




=)

Seriously though, your test bench looks friggin sick. Great work!! You got a build log for it?


----------



## Ajay57

My i ask Raja, is there any more stability up dates going to be included in the new Bios release??

If so will it help to raise the level as to what you can possible OC to?

As with my 4960X here its fully stable to 4.7 Mhz, then kinda falls off a cliff and requires a large jump in Vcore to get it stable and working @ 4.8 Mhz.

Or would you say this is perfectly normal for IB-E CPU's in general!

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> =)
> 
> Seriously though, your test bench looks friggin sick. Great work!! You got a build log for it?


Thanks for the kind remarks about my Benching set up, as for a build log!!

That would take some serious time to possible list everything here, just kindly take it took me months of up dating to get where i am today!









Cheers,

AJ.


----------



## skupples

A bios can help a little not but its going to be 90% on the CPu and your tuning skills


----------



## Ajay57

Well just hoping Skup that's all, i have just about adjusted and tweaked everything you can, believe me my friend!!

I have used Raja's Tips and some from 8 PACK's tuning guide as well, so i have the best of the best if you know what i mean.

Back to you Skup!!

AJ.


----------



## strong island 1

i got my 4930k up to about 5.8ghz this weekend with ln2 on this board. I only went up to about 1.55v but my chip has no cold bug so i think at these low of temps I could go a little higher. I only have a screenshot for 5.7ghz but I did have it up to 5.8.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> My i ask Raja, is there any more stability up dates going to be included in the new Bios release??
> 
> If so will it help to raise the level as to what you can possible OC to?
> 
> As with my 4960X here its fully stable to 4.7 Mhz, then kinda falls off a cliff and requires a large jump in Vcore to get it stable and working @ 4.8 Mhz.
> 
> Or would you say this is perfectly normal for IB-E CPU's in general!
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


That's normal behviour for the CPUs when they max out.


----------



## Ajay57

I am a bencher on the HWbot so i am always looking for that bit extra!! Hence the reason for this Motherboard and the CPU, by the way you and everyone did a great job with this Mobo overall. I can not fault it from my side and this is my 4th or 5th Asus motherboard, which all have worked perfectly for me.

Great job thanks and keep up the good work,

AJ.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> LunaP
> 
> 1) It is beta cos I rolled it out early for forums - I made the call as I felt it was fine on my system. If you want to wait for "official" release that is fine.
> 
> 2) I have Corsair's 64GB kit running at DDR3-2133 on my own board here at home. No issues so far, just loaded XMP and went.
> 
> 3) Not sure on you not being able to run more than 4.5G. VCore, VCCSA and VTT is really all these CPUs need to get from A-B for raw freq. Any time I have gone over 4.5G on CPUs that are capable, one gets to the desktop...
> 
> -Raja


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> That's normal behviour for the CPUs when they max out.


1) I only meant since you mentioned it was mainly for SB-E
2) Same speeds as me at least.
3) I'm just not able to understand how a chip can hit 4.5 w/ ease and very little bump in voltage but anything after is a failure even by .1 I just feel at that point I'm doing something wrong.

I'm just trying to attack this at all sides before it comes down to JUST a 4.5 chip. This is a great board and I just want to give it the best parts. Also in your experience with these high clocks do you feel an 860W PSU ( corsair platinum ) is enough? I have the GPU's on a separate power source ( plat 1200AXi)


----------



## [email protected]

Yeah that PSU should be plenty. These Ivy-E CPUs don't pull much current.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 3) I'm just not able to understand how a chip can hit 4.5 w/ ease and very little bump in voltage but anything after is a failure even by .1 I just feel at that point I'm doing something wrong.


Can you list minimum voltages required for stable 4.3 and 4.1? Also are you using LLC at regular or higher?

Try to set your RAM speed to 1600 MHz when you are trying CPU overclocking. But CPU overclocking is straghtforward with this board. You'd find your CPU limits in no time. (As long as you are using LLC at regular. Higher LLC tends to hide instability and it shows only in certain combinations of conditions. Though it's nothing that wouldn't solve adding +0.020-0.040, or so volts to VCC.)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 1) I only meant since you mentioned it was mainly for SB-E
> 2) Same speeds as me at least.
> 3) I'm just not able to understand how a chip can hit 4.5 w/ ease and very little bump in voltage but anything after is a failure even by .1 I just feel at that point I'm doing something wrong.
> 
> I'm just trying to attack this at all sides before it comes down to JUST a 4.5 chip. This is a great board and I just want to give it the best parts. Also in your experience with these high clocks do you feel an 860W PSU ( corsair platinum ) is enough? I have the GPU's on a separate power source ( plat 1200AXi)


Adjust power limits, maybe. The 0504 BIOS has some issues with power limits, even at stock. I trip PSU power detection all the time, OC, pull more power, it works fine









Or a couple of LN2 sessions hurt my board. My LAN also now doesn't work unless I reboot, or go into BIOS from cold boot, and restart, so the LAN problem is the board for sure...LAN won't start unless warm-booted, or I remove driver in OS and warm-boot that way.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Yeah that PSU should be plenty. These Ivy-E CPUs don't pull much current.


Mine pulls 250W easy @ 4.5 GHz. All three. 4960X at stock, dual 780 Ti @ stock... 853 W by my wall-wart meter. That 250W figure, however, was measured at the 8-pin.

Raja, I am sure that Intel is having some silicon issues. Don't underestimate how bad some retail chips can be.









That said, LunaP is running dual mismatched PSUs, and I want to blame that.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Can you list minimum voltages required for stable 4.3 and 4.1? Also are you using LLC at regular or higher?
> 
> *Try to set your RAM speed to 1600 MHz* when you are trying CPU overclocking. But CPU overclocking is straghtforward with this board. You'd find your CPU limits in no time. (As long as you are using LLC at regular. Higher LLC tends to hide instability and it shows only in certain combinations of conditions. Though it's nothing that wouldn't solve adding +0.020-0.040, or so volts to VCC.)


It was set to 1333 stock. @ only 16gb mem.

LLC is set too very high @ 180% and VCCSA is high @ 130% as per cadaveca's direction. I've screenshots from a while back posted.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> warm-booted, or I remove driver in OS and warm-boot that way.
> Mine pulls 250W easy @ 4.5 GHz. All three. 4960X at stock, dual 780 Ti @ stock... 853 W by my wall-wart meter. That 250W figure, however, was measured at the 8-pin.


You have three **** CPUs then







Mine pull about 15 amps peak from 12V at 4.5GHz under full load - ties back perfectly to stated package power with 10% losses. 250W at that freq is going back to Bloomfield/Gulftown territory.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> You have three **** CPUs then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine pull about 15 amps peak from 12V at 4.5GHz under full load - ties back perfectly to stated package power with 10% losses. 250W at that freq is going back to Bloomfield/Gulftown territory.


I know, but like LunaP, I can run 4.5 GHz @ 1.25V.

Just saying. I have ES chips, so yeah, poopy.


----------



## [email protected]

something about that figure sounds off to me. Can you double check?


----------



## Raghar

Code:



Code:


75 A 3.2 GHz 163W prime
90 A 3.4 GHz 168 W prime
110 A 3.9 GHz 172-5 W prime might need test stability

I have this with my 4 core.
Basically prime and overclocking tends to stay under 200 W wall for the whole MB and CPU. (Phase at extreme adds another 10 W, but it should be unnecessary for 4 core at 3.9 or lower.)

LunaP I think you might try to overclock your CPU at regular LLC, just to get proper statistic data. Start at 3.9, then do 4.1, and 4.3. It should create some curve. For example my CPU should reach 4.5 GHz at 1.26428571429 V (LLC regular, <1.23 V LLC medium) If the curve would look like it should stay mostly linear at 4.6 GHz try higher strap like 1.25x 37. Also I found using 500 kHz voltage frequency worked better than the default 300 kHz.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> something about that figure sounds off to me. Can you double check?


Yep. What I can say, as well, is that power consumption increases quite a bit when adding GPUs...over 50W/card in my system.

Did you test with one GPU, or a fully stuffed rig?

I was rather puzzled myself...what does IVB-E offer, then, right? I mean, I can clock my SB-E just as high... higher... and get only 20W more power consumed. But IVB-E is faster in benches and daily use to me.

Also note, Raja, my CPU will not boot AT ALL with "stock" regular LLC, and 100% VRM setting. I can't get boot until I set 140%. Whether that's because the BIOS is garbage, or my chip simply pulls tonnes of power... I dunno.

I also pull ~50-65W less when using 125 BCLK.

I am not using software to get these figures, either. I test every board I review like this, every chip, with physical meters in-line on 8-pin EPS and PCIe connectors, and the wall wart, which is something that like no one else does (or at least, they don't give such data in reviews).

It might be useful to you to know my board is not retail, has no serial number, and came in a box with SILVER METAL ROG logo. It behaves a bit differently than my retail sample, but only a bit in mem OC, which I thought was odd, since they are same revision, apparently. That said, guys here with retail have also needed the same VRM settings to end reboots...but you've mentioned power figures might need adjust.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yep. What I can say, as well, is that power consumption increases quite a bit when adding GPUs...over 50W/card in my system.
> 
> Did you test with one GPU, or a fully stuff rig?
> 
> I was rather puzzled myself...what does IVB-E offer, then, right? I mean, I can clock my SB-E just as high... higher... and get only 20W more power consumed. But IVB-E is faster in benches and daily use to me.


That is a clamp meter on 12V EPS - so CPU power not rig power from wall or for GPU. Even at 1.40V I am under 200W..


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> That is a clamp meter on 12V EPS - so CPU power not rig power from wall or for GPU. Even at 1.40V I am under 200W..


How many VGAs? Don't forget PCIe is on CPU, using more PCIe increase CPU power consumption, not just board power.

I can't run over 1.35V without overheating, even with decent water. My chip has also been used under LN2 for about 40 hours.

I'm not saying that your numbers are wrong...just that these CPUs are quite varied in quality. My three samples...wow...one does 4.2 only, the next 4.3....the third, goes sky-high, but only 4.7 on water @ 1/35V, and then it's almost at throttle under P95.


----------



## [email protected]

Even with 2x I dont get what you are under full CPU load. PCIe side controller on CPU is not that power hungry, transceivers are at high impedance for this stuff. They don't pull 40W per GPU added from CPU~PCIe controller die.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Even with 2x I dont get what you are under full CPU load. PCIe side controller on CPU is not that power hungry, transceivers are at high impedance for this stuff. They don't pull 40W per GPU added from CPU~PCIe controller die.


Maybe PCie is where my CPU sucks.

On the same thought, however, this board will not boot my 3960X C1 (C0 worked fine) with x16 slots 1/3 populated. Another user had similar problem, but with different slots. Could be a problem with my board, dunno. Beyond my scope.

I mean...I don't care, really. That is just my experience with these chips. My P9X79 Deluxe clocks 8 GB ram sticks better, too, but this board is supposed to be tuned for ram clocking. Oh well.

wallwart pic (system at stock, ie, optimized defaults loaded, wireless/Bluetooth/eSATA disabled, 4960X, 4x4 GB Dominator Platinum 2666 C10 @ JEDEC 1333 C9, 2x GTX780 Ti ASUS reference):



I have an H90, 3x air penetrator, one noctua fan, one Crucial 128 GB SSD, 2 mechanical HDD, + two of the stock white LED fans from CARBIDE 540 AIR, and a NZXT Sentry Mesh. All powered via Thermaltake ToughPower Platinum 1275W

With that list of parts, you are right, power consumption should not be as high as it is...but my VGAs also exceed TDP at stock, and throttle like mad. I'll be RMAing these $800 cards, both, real soon.


----------



## [email protected]

The only real change from the ES boards were to retail were some DRAM trace refinements. My board here is one I purchased retail.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> The only real change from the ES boards were to retail were some DRAM trace refinements. My board here is one I purchased retail.


Yeah, what can I say, really? With CPU board and technically mems all being ES... Not much.

That said, stock, my rig shuts down, reboots, does other weird stuff...but on OC...it's a tank. Under LN2...amazing. Efficiency is pretty good, too. I gave the board a good review, after all - I don't give Editor's Choice award lightly.

That said, the one I am using...has some issues.







I probably caused them with the LN2 runs.

It is also possible my board is grounding out internally somewhere. Like I cannot discount the real possibility that I really damaged it, and the issues that I am left with are due to that. The LAN thing is rather odd, after all..why do I need warm boot for it to work? OH, and the Intel MEI driver won't load either, and yes, I've reflashed BIOSes.

I have many ASUS ROG boards sitting here with what I think is corrupt MEI...we've talked about this before on XS with 1155 boards, you might remember. I have one MAXIMUS V EXTREME and one MAXIMUS VI EXTREME, both lost audio on a reboot when clocking ram.( Same thing, run SPi32M, Spi fails near end of test (20-23 pass), I shut down to change timing in BIOS, reboot, audio is now dead)

I push my hardware HARDER than anyone else, really. I do try to break things when pushing for reviews.


----------



## [email protected]

The 0602 build should cure the shutdowns you are getting at the lower overclocks even on ES board I think.

If you have a clamp meter for the EPS 12V and it is seeing substantially more than 200W at 4.5GHz with 1.25Vcore under full CPU load, then something is amiss.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Did you test with one GPU, or a fully stuffed rig?


When I measured board power without GFX card it took 68W, with GFX card it took 82W. GTX 660. Also Cadaveca can you look if you have PCI-E 3.0 active? I was forced to mod registers to activate it.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> When I measured board power without GFX card it took 68W, with GFX card it took 82W. GTX 660. Also Cadaveca can you look if you have PCI-E 3.0 active? I was forced to mod registers to activate it.


Works fine for me. I am using IVB-E now, so no problems there. IF you installed OS with SB-E, then upgraded, I'd suggest looking at OS as a fault cause. If you have SB-E only, then yes, AFAIK, "hack" is required.

I have had one PSU and two SSDs die with this board so far, so I have fresh OS that is only a week old right now. I haven't even played games yet really...I have way too many reviews in backlog. This hobby of mine takes up too much time!









Anyway, screenshot for you:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> The 0602 build should cure the shutdowns you are getting at the lower overclocks even on ES board I think.
> 
> If you have a clamp meter for the EPS 12V and it is seeing substantially more than 200W at 4.5GHz with 1.25Vcore under full CPU load, then something is amiss.


Yeah, but I'm stable.. so...

I just wanted to point out...this high power consumption is possible. My poopy chips...pull 180W @ 4.2/4.3, before I gave up on them. I was really hoping for 4.6 under 165W, honestly. I just think that some users may push chips in such a way that degradation to this point is most definitely possible.

I'll give the 0602 a try once I get this work done and get it backed up properly...and report back about it afterwords.


----------



## Raghar

Well I upgraded from E7200, and considering problems I heard about random restarts, I reinstalled the system. I wonder if NVidia heard about 4820K and if they didn't activate PCI-E 3.0 only for 6 core Ivy-E. Or it might be because of GTX 660. Well, it's Asus card, perhaps I should create a tech support question. (Result of my last question: "my RAM reads 37GB/s writes 45 GB/s what can I do with that?" was answered: "We doesn't support Linux." considering I didn't reinstalled GRUB and my tests were on W7 x64, it's bit crazy reply.) I think they need some entertainment.

Actually there were some users who complained about Ivy-E and lack of PCI-E 3.0 support...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Well I upgraded from E7200, and considering problems I heard about random restarts, I reinstalled the system. I wonder if NVidia heard about 4820K and if they didn't activate PCI-E 3.0 only for 6 core Ivy-E. Or it might be because of GTX 660. Well, it's Asus card, perhaps I should create a tech support question. (Result of my last question: "my RAM reads 37GB/s writes 45 GB/s what can I do with that?" was answered: "We doesn't support Linux." considering I didn't reinstalled GRUB and my tests were on W7 x64, it's bit crazy reply.) I think they need some entertainment.
> 
> Actually there were some users who complained about Ivy-E and lack of PCI-E 3.0 support...


what are ur nem timings I had to adjust mine for apot on read/write

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 75 A 3.2 GHz 163W prime
> 90 A 3.4 GHz 168 W prime
> 110 A 3.9 GHz 172-5 W prime might need test stability
> 
> I have this with my 4 core.
> Basically prime and overclocking tends to stay under 200 W wall for the whole MB and CPU. (Phase at extreme adds another 10 W, but it should be unnecessary for 4 core at 3.9 or lower.)
> 
> LunaP I think you might try to overclock your CPU at regular LLC, just to get proper statistic data. Start at 3.9, then do 4.1, and 4.3. It should create some curve. For example my CPU should reach 4.5 GHz at 1.26428571429 V (LLC regular, <1.23 V LLC medium) If the curve would look like it should stay mostly linear at 4.6 GHz try higher strap like 1.25x 37. Also I found using 500 kHz voltage frequency worked better than the default 300 kHz.


I'll try this when I get home. Any downsides to altering the voltage frequency? Also cad can I get your input on the above?


----------



## SeanEboy

Is there any list of the necessary updates/etc that I should pay attention to on this board? I'm wondering what the quickest way of ensuring I have the most up to date/or best drivers is..?


----------



## CyBorg807

So I am sure this question has been asked to death but I am planning on picking up a Rampage IV Black Edition next week, I am a little torn on getting either a 4960X or a 4930K, from what I understand there is little to no benefit going for the 4960X but I just wanted to confirm that there is no binning process for those chips. I am planning on running my setup with 4x4GB sticks of 2400MHz CL9 ram and an H100i if that helps.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

After installing a fresh copy of Win7, my computer has been rock solid. Loving it dearly 

I was ready to set it on fire due to those random BSODs. With my new Chip, I might not upgrade to Haswell E. Unless of course we get jaw dropping performance increases.

My only problem is that I lost my magnetic RoG emblem. I used that a few times to release the gpus from the pci slot, is anyone selling theirs?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> After installing a fresh copy of Win7, my computer has been rock solid. Loving it dearly
> 
> I was ready to set it on fire due to those random BSODs. With my new Chip, I might not upgrade to Haswell E. Unless of course we get jaw dropping performance increases.
> 
> My only problem is that I lost my magnetic RoG emblem. I used that a few times to release the gpus from the pci slot, is anyone selling theirs?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> The 0602 build should cure the shutdowns you are getting at the lower overclocks even on ES board I think.
> 
> If you have a clamp meter for the EPS 12V and it is seeing substantially more than 200W at 4.5GHz with 1.25Vcore under full CPU load, then something is amiss.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> UEFI 0602 beta for anyone that wants to test. Some changes to current sensing for OCP (leave on auto to test), and some 125 strap changes for SNB-E (still evaluating the latter). No other changes.
> 
> My personal media fire account link for download: https://www.mediafire.com/?7qw9wjnz88g570p
> 
> -Raja


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Also cad can I get your input on the above?


He is basically re-iterating what I was mentioning to Raja.

I mean, that's part of why my approach to OC is a bit different than most...power consumption is a big part that I consider. The average limit where chips "wall" and need more voltage is typically around the same power draw. As Raja mentioned, 200W is pretty much that limit for IVB-E, while SNB-E seemed good until around 265 W or so. Given the reduction in transistor size by process design, Intel did pretty good, but I feel overall quality of the CPUs has suffered - but if you don't look at power consumption on a large scale considering things like this, that might not be readily apparent. It all depends on what your looking at. Some users simply OC for performance or benchmarks, I OC because I'm a silicon geek.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Is there any list of the necessary updates/etc that I should pay attention to on this board? I'm wondering what the quickest way of ensuring I have the most up to date/or best drivers is..?


Install them off the disc, but Intel LAN has newer on Intel site.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> So I am sure this question has been asked to death but I am planning on picking up a Rampage IV Black Edition next week, I am a little torn on getting either a 4960X or a 4930K, from what I understand there is little to no benefit going for the 4960X but I just wanted to confirm that there is no binning process for those chips. I am planning on running my setup with 4x4GB sticks of 2400MHz CL9 ram and an H100i if that helps.


"K" should be fine. centvalny has had some really good "K" chips, I gotta say.

Plus, less cache enabled makes cooling easier, and maybe that's why the 4930K seems to do better. At the same time, I've only seen results from about 200 ES 4960X chips that myself and others have had.


----------



## Mega Man

i like the new bios, have not had time to play but i can now boot at 1.4 4.9 which i couldnt before, i am sure i can push 4.8 24/7 but i need to refamiliarize myself with this board, i know this chip used to do 1.4 5ghz, but it was on phasechange and he was pushing 1.53 5.3ghz but was really only used for validations !

in other news my th10 arrived today, i will be using it for this build tilli get my tx10-d ! ill post pics sometime but i was sick and i didnt feel like picking it up from my main shop ( work )


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> He is basically re-iterating what I was mentioning to Raja.
> 
> I mean, that's part of why my approach to OC is a bit different than most...power consumption is a big part that I consider. The average limit where chips "wall" and need more voltage is typically around the same power draw. As Raja mentioned, 200W is pretty much that limit for IVB-E, while SNB-E seemed good until around 265 W or so. Given the reduction in transistor size by process design, Intel did pretty good, but I feel overall quality of the CPUs has suffered - but if you don't look at power consumption on a large scale considering things like this, that might not be readily apparent. It all depends on what your looking at. Some users simply OC for performance or benchmarks, I OC because I'm a silicon geek.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Install them off the disc, but Intel LAN has newer on Intel site.
> "K" should be fine. centvalny has had some really good "K" chips, I gotta say.
> 
> Plus, less cache enabled makes cooling easier, and maybe that's why the 4930K seems to do better. At the same time, I've only seen results from about 200 ES 4960X chips that myself and others have had.


Thanks for the input, I figured it was either go for the 4960X and a 1 TB WD Black for game storage or get the 4930K and a 1 TB Samsung EVO SSD, and since I am currently using a 480GB Intel SSD for game storage I didn't want to downgrade.


----------



## reev3r

I am curious, in all of the research I have ever done, I have never found anywhere that any RAM speed above ~1333MHz is of any benefit in ANY situation, ever. So why do so many people insist on spending so much on faster RAM when a faster (insert any other component here) would be of infinitely more benefit...?

Not to be negative in ANY way, but I see people claiming that 2400MHz RAM cut their rendering times in half, all things being equal, which is just a full load of manure...

Anybody else seeing this trend? I understand that a person might not have a need for 756GB of RAM, but to say that speed is more important than capacity, is their reason for spending twice as much on the same capacity seems, in my research, to be a blatant misrepresentation of facts...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am curious, in all of the research I have ever done, I have never found anywhere that any RAM speed above ~1333MHz is of any benefit in ANY situation, ever. So why do so many people insist on spending so much on faster RAM when a faster (insert any other component here) would be of infinitely more benefit...?
> 
> Not to be negative in ANY way, but I see people claiming that 2400MHz RAM cut their rendering times in half, all things being equal, which is just a full load of manure...
> 
> Anybody else seeing this trend? I understand that a person might not have a need for 756GB of RAM, but to say that speed is more important than capacity, is their reason for spending twice as much on the same capacity seems, in my research, to be a blatant misrepresentation of facts...


A lot of us are overclockers that post results in threads here, at FutureMark and HWbot. Overclock.net has a team on HWbot. There are World Records and a Hall of Fame.

Fast ram improves our benchmarking results, usually more than tight timings, but some cpu/chipset combinations have different abilities and plateau with differing speeds. Quantity of ram usually limits the OC capacity of the main processor. So an overclocker will go for the quantity of ram that doesn't hinder overclocking, and buy the ram that he thinks capable of getting the best results out of his pc.

This same pc is often used for gaming. There are gains to be had in fps, but the gains are not that noticeable to a user. It can be measured, again, by a benchmark. People post their results and compare the results they can coax out of their computers. For us types, it's worth it.

Large quantities of ram are more suited to particular tasks like batch image editing, servers, cad-cam, virtualisation, ram-drives, you know, the serious stuff that can require a different build for purpose.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am curious, in all of the research I have ever done, I have never found anywhere that any RAM speed above ~1333MHz is of any benefit in ANY situation, ever. So why do so many people insist on spending so much on faster RAM when a faster (insert any other component here) would be of infinitely more benefit...?
> 
> Not to be negative in ANY way, but I see people claiming that 2400MHz RAM cut their rendering times in half, all things being equal, which is just a full load of manure...
> 
> Anybody else seeing this trend? I understand that a person might not have a need for 756GB of RAM, but to say that speed is more important than capacity, is their reason for spending twice as much on the same capacity seems, in my research, to be a blatant misrepresentation of facts...


me thinks you need to look at the domain name, i can see and feel the difference between 1333/1600 and 2400 who ever told you that, is full of it, but also to add in is diminishing results,

but since 1333 is the same as 2400

obviously a C2duo @ 1ghz is enough for you right ??


----------



## VAL79

I can't wait to get this motherboard up and running, just waiting on my case to arrive!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am curious, in all of the research I have ever done, I have never found anywhere that any RAM speed above ~1333MHz is of any benefit in ANY situation, ever. So why do so many people insist on spending so much on faster RAM when a faster (insert any other component here) would be of infinitely more benefit...?
> 
> Not to be negative in ANY way, but I see people claiming that 2400MHz RAM cut their rendering times in half, all things being equal, which is just a full load of manure...
> 
> Anybody else seeing this trend? I understand that a person might not have a need for 756GB of RAM, but to say that speed is more important than capacity, is their reason for spending twice as much on the same capacity seems, in my research, to be a blatant misrepresentation of facts...


You get very slight improvements on benchmarks, thats about it for me. Considering 1600mhz kits cost almost the same as faster kits, why not go with the fastest available?

a 2x8 1600mhz G.Skill Trident X is 164.99 on newegg vs a 2400Kit that is 199.99.

A small improvement is still an improvement. We all know that the high end stuff tends to suck when it comes to price to performance ratio, but to lose sleep cause your 2400mhz kit is only stable at 2133 is absurd.

My 2400mhx kit , gets me 20 points on Cinebench R15 vs the same kit running at 1600. That means some games now or in the future might also take advantage of faster memory. Still not enough for me to notice it without a benchmark giving me a score, but that also applies to overclocking a cpu. To be honest, I only notice the difference in frequency on benchmarks that get me a score and I can see the correlation between frequency and average fps. Its a hobby, some of us do it just for fun. People are already pushing memory past 3000, it's just how it is.


----------



## reev3r

It seems I was a bit vague in my post...I was primarily referring to the people that claim faster RAM will yield significant improvements discernable to the user, as I completely understand the benchmarking aspect of it, just not really the people claiming that they are getting these huge benefits in real-world scenarios...

Perhaps that is more indicative of what I meant.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> It seems I was a bit vague in my post...I was primarily referring to the people that claim faster RAM will yield significant improvements discernable to the user, as I completely understand the benchmarking aspect of it, just not really the people claiming that they are getting these huge benefits in real-world scenarios...
> 
> Perhaps that is more indicative of what I meant.


ok here is one real world solution you can EASILY see the difference in, ever hear of ramdisk ?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok here is one real world solution you can EASILY see the difference in, ever hear of ramdisk ?


Absolutely, the very reason I have 32GB of RAM, but even there, the performance gains from the slowest to fastest RAM is like 2%, certainly not worth the entry fee, as it were... Again, I completely understand the desire to have the 'fastest', but I do not subscribe to the idea that speed equals performance, as that is not really the case, especially with RAM. Again, this perception is based solely on the research I have done myself, and twenty years of personal experience.

If someone could show me some reliable information regarding their experiences to the contrary it would be greatly appreciated. In my personal experience I have not observed, with consistency, RAM speeds that significantly increase perceived performance, even from the slowest to the fastest speeds on a given platform.

Again, I really am open to the fact that I may be incorrect in a given operation, but in all the claims I have seen I have yet to see actual evidence, just some tweaker that wants to sound like he overclocked his RAM to ultrafast...

Sort of like a friend I have that used to make claims like, 'I fit Windows 95 on a floppy disk', even though at the time it was HUGE news that a team got it down to something like 5MB.

Again, to put it in a short sentence, I fully accept information based on facts, but I do not accept claims that are not based on evidence.

Just asking if anybody has some concrete evidence of any area where the noticeable gain is factual,and not farcical.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Absolutely, the very reason I have 32GB of RAM, but even there, the performance gains from the slowest to fastest RAM is like 2%, certainly not worth the entry fee, as it were... Again, I completely understand the desire to have the 'fastest', but I do not subscribe to the idea that speed equals performance, as that is not really the case, especially with RAM. Again, this perception is based solely on the research I have done myself, and twenty years of personal experience.
> 
> If someone could show me some reliable information regarding their experiences to the contrary it would be greatly appreciated. In my personal experience I have not observed, with consistency, RAM speeds that significantly increase perceived performance, even from the slowest to the fastest speeds on a given platform.
> 
> Again, I really am open to the fact that I may be incorrect in a given operation, but in all the claims I have seen I have yet to see actual evidence, just some tweaker that wants to sound like he overclocked his RAM to ultrafast...
> 
> Sort of like a friend I have that used to make claims like, 'I fit Windows 95 on a floppy disk', even though at the time it was HUGE news that a team got it down to something like 5MB.
> 
> Again, to put it in a short sentence, I fully accept information based on facts, but I do not accept claims that are not based on evidence.
> 
> Just asking if anybody has some concrete evidence of any area where the noticeable gain is factual,and not farcical.


You seem to have found the answer to your own question. Not sure where you're trying to get at.


----------



## Mega Man

or my personal fav.

" you can not fill a cup that is overflowing "


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> You seem to have found the answer to your own question. Not sure where you're trying to get at.


I feel I was rather clear, I am trying to get at truth, as ever in my life, my goal is always the facts of a given thing, and regardless of how right I might think I am, I am always open to facts that lend a different perspective, as information and education are never bad things, regardless of what some might think.

My objective, is merely to see if there is anybody with facts that show otherwise, and if there is nobody with such information, then it is reasonable to surmise that the claims from people to the contrary must be falsifications, as no other explanation exists.

As stated, my goal is not to prove myself correct, but to question the claims of others in an effort to better explain the reality and differences in information that I observe. On one hand I see my experience, and my research, on the other hand I see the experience and research of others, and invariably, we both can not be correct when our observations are differing.

I am not certain how to better explain myself, and perhaps I should post elsewhere, in a forum that will provide evidence, as I just meant for this to be a quick post with a couple people providing evidence, but somehow my explanation of what I am looking for seems to be lost.

Once more, I am requesting factual information, regarding the non-benchmark performance of varying RAM speeds that supports the notion that there is a significant variance in a speed/performance ratio.

Again, perhaps the wrong forum for such a request, but it just popped into my mind after reading a few earlier posts.


----------



## Mega Man

you say you dont want benchmarks, but you want to be shown proof? how do you expect anyone to be able to do this ? a video ?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I feel I was rather clear, I am trying to get at truth, as ever in my life, my goal is always the facts of a given thing, and regardless of how right I might think I am, I am always open to facts that lend a different perspective, as information and education are never bad things, regardless of what some might think.
> 
> My objective, is merely to see if there is anybody with facts that show otherwise, and if there is nobody with such information, then it is reasonable to surmise that the claims from people to the contrary must be falsifications, as no other explanation exists.
> 
> As stated, my goal is not to prove myself correct, but to question the claims of others in an effort to better explain the reality and differences in information that I observe. On one hand I see my experience, and my research, on the other hand I see the experience and research of others, and invariably, we both can not be correct when our observations are differing.
> 
> I am not certain how to better explain myself, and perhaps I should post elsewhere, in a forum that will provide evidence, as I just meant for this to be a quick post with a couple people providing evidence, but somehow my explanation of what I am looking for seems to be lost.
> 
> Once more, I am requesting factual information, regarding the non-benchmark performance of varying RAM speeds that supports the notion that there is a significant variance in a speed/performance ratio.
> 
> Again, perhaps the wrong forum for such a request, but it just popped into my mind after reading a few earlier posts.


So you're trying to find what doesn't exist. Here or on any forum, you won't find some one that could say 2400mhz offers a significant improvement over 1333mhz memory. Most applications a games generally do not take advantage of the added frequencies, yet. And the ones that do, only bump performance by a small, unnoticeable percentage. Thats just the way it is. My only mental note of the faster memory was getting a1050 score on cinebench with a stock 4930k and 2400mhz cl9 memory vs a 1030 score with a stock 4930K Cl11 1600Mhz.

I remember reading articles that BF4 takes advantage of faster memory. I hate battlefield and don not care to do any testing, but if you have access to really fast memory that you can compare to 1333 memory, feel free to do the tests and report back to us.

Also memory timings seem to affect frequency, so frequency is only part of the equation when trying to graph improvements, timings should also be taken into consideration.

I remember watching this a while back, while further testing is required because of the timings, some info may be useful.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I just installed the new BIOS, left all the CPU settings on auto except for the XMP profile. Will try to OC tomorrow and see if 4.8GHZ is at least benchmark stable.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> It seems I was a bit vague in my post...I was primarily referring to the people that claim faster RAM will yield significant improvements discernable to the user, as I completely understand the benchmarking aspect of it, just not really the people claiming that they are getting these huge benefits in real-world scenarios...


Don't see any people claiming that in this thread of late (if at all). Maybe you're talking to guys that know there is not much in it already - wrong place to start the convo perhaps...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you say you dont want benchmarks, but you want to be shown proof? how do you expect anyone to be able to do this ? a video ?


Indeed a shorthand error, I am interested in non-synthetic benchmarks, thank you for pointing out my error, as that is a very specific difference that would surely lead to confusion. 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> So you're trying to find what doesn't exist. Here or on any forum, you won't find some one that could say 2400mhz offers a significant improvement over 1333mhz memory. Most applications a games generally do not take advantage of the added frequencies, yet. And the ones that do, only bump performance by a small, unnoticeable percentage. Thats just the way it is. My only mental note of the faster memory was getting a1050 score on cinebench with a stock 4930k and 2400mhz cl9 memory vs a 1030 score with a stock 4930K Cl11 1600Mhz.
> 
> I remember reading articles that BF4 takes advantage of faster memory. I hate battlefield and don not care to do any testing, but if you have access to really fast memory that you can compare to 1333 memory, feel free to do the tests and report back to us.
> 
> Also memory timings seem to affect frequency, so frequency is only part of the equation when trying to graph improvements, timings should also be taken into consideration.
> 
> I remember watching this a while back, while further testing is required because of the timings, some info may be useful.


My goal is not exactly to find what does not exist, only to find the truth of the matter. I thank you as well for pointing out an error, my objective should have been stated as the performance difference, and not the speed.

Also, thank you for the video, I love linustech. He uses the most sound logic most of the time, and he points out, very clearly that his opinion is not 'fact' only his interpretation of what he observes, though I do not always agree with his methods, I do feel he is a very reliable source of information.


----------



## Kimir

Trying to justify to go to 2400Mhz over 1600Mhz is like trying to justify choosing to get a R4BE (this very topic is about) and a 4930k over a M6E and a 4770k.
The difference is very very slight.
Here a pic from googling 2400 vs 1600


Why not get the better for not much more money if they goal is to be future proof?


----------



## Mongo

Is there new Bios out for this board? the Asus Website shows the 0403 that is the one that came on my board.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mongo*
> 
> Is there new Bios out for this board? the Asus Website shows the 0403 that is the one that came on my board.


Yes:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> UEFI 0602 beta for anyone that wants to test. Some changes to current sensing for OCP (leave on auto to test), and some 125 strap changes for SNB-E (still evaluating the latter). No other changes.
> 
> My personal media fire account link for download: https://www.mediafire.com/?7qw9wjnz88g570p
> 
> -Raja


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> what are ur nem timings I had to adjust mine for apot on read/write


9-9-9-24 for 1600 MHz. 12-12-12-36 for 2133 MHz. Secondary timings are bog standard from SPD.


These are my current settings after BIOS update, I didn't fine tune them yet. Thought it's bit strange WCL is set to 8 and AIDA reads it as 7. I use LoVo hynix chips BTW, thus 1600 MHz uses 1.350 V. Strangely 1866 MHz was lol no, however 2133 MHz was extremely easy in comparison to 1866 MHz. (I forgot timings I used on 1866, it was hard work to even boot. Rampage tweak 2 doesn't work with my RAM/CPU combination. I think I managed to get through in mode 1 in my 1866 MHz tests.)

Quote:


> I'll try this when I get home. Any downsides to altering the voltage frequency?


That should answer Raja, Asus folk should know downsides the best. However considering the max value is 1100 kHz (min 300 kHz), it should still be well within safe range. Higher frequency should increase power consumption because of switching overhead, on the other hand it should smooth voltage and make things much more responsive.

BTW Raja what mosfet voltage is better for summer heats? 6V or 7V?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Indeed a shorthand error, I am interested in non-synthetic benchmarks, thank you for pointing out my error, as that is a very specific difference that would surely lead to confusion.
> My goal is not exactly to find what does not exist, only to find the truth of the matter. I thank you as well for pointing out an error, my objective should have been stated as the performance difference, and not the speed.


You can check any of my memory review to see that at most in 3D, you get about 10% in FPS at only the best of times going from 1333 to 2400 MHz, and that's really only in the tests I picked because they show gains...many things do not.

However, when you are pushing multiple VGAs, and things like microstutter occur, the perceivable difference can be much greater...if that 2-5% means your frame rates go from under 60 FPS, to over 60 FPS, with a 60 Hz monitor.

FOr the longest time, most gamers would OC trying to reach that 60 FPS, since the hardware really wasn't that capable compared to what the software needed. Today, that's not the same...hardware VASTLY exceeds software.... and the software is about 5 years behind the hardware.

Someonne asked yesterday about new drivers...I looked last night at the ASUS site...Wi-Fi, LAN, audio, AI Suite and RamDisk software all have new downloads.


----------



## Ajay57

Talking about Ram i did some tweaking of my own here, and managed to OC it from 2133 to 2400 stable up to a 4.8 Mhz OC on my CPU!

Here is my results i hope it can helps others with a few pointers which way to go, this was with G.SKILL F3-17000CL9Q-16GBZH.

The Chips on these are double sided and HYNIX!!



The one on the left was when i first started, the one next is where i have finished so far, and then the Timings plus Sub Timings as well.



Regards,

AJ.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You can check any of my memory review to see that at most in 3D, you get about 10% in FPS at only the best of times going from 1333 to 2400 MHz, and that's really only in the tests I picked because they show gains...many things do not.
> 
> However, when you are pushing multiple VGAs, and things like microstutter occur, the perceivable difference can be much greater...if that 2-5% means your frame rates go from under 60 FPS, to over 60 FPS, with a 60 Hz monitor.
> 
> FOr the longest time, most gamers would OC trying to reach that 60 FPS, since the hardware really wasn't that capable compared to what the software needed. Today, that's not the same...hardware VASTLY exceeds software.... and the software is about 5 years behind the hardware.


It seems that the general consensus is in line with what I have found myself. Personally, I can not justify spending extra on something that will not show me gains, that being said, I understand the people that do. As well, I am sure that most of you that are able to spend $500 on a declining platform have the funds to spend on the best other hardware as well, whereas, being on disability prevents me from getting the best hardware there is. I feel that I have done fairly with what I have though, 2x670ftw cards in SLI, 32GB of RAM, R4BE, 4820K (interim CPU), 2X27" IPS panels, Logitech G25/710+, Harman Kardon AVR 2650, 2x250GB Samsung 840 Evo's in RAID0, R.A.T. 7, along with other goodies, and a good server, plus around 25TB of storage, I really can't complain...

Thank you to everyone that kept this discussion civil, and didn't go ape**** whiny pants because of a disagreement.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Talking about Ram i did some tweaking of my own here, and managed to OC it from 2133 to 2400 stable up to a 4.8 Mhz OC on my CPU!
> 
> Here is my results i hope it can helps others with a few pointers which way to go, this was with G.SKILL F3-17000CL9Q-16GBZH.
> 
> The Chips on these are double sided and HYNIX!!
> 
> 
> 
> The one on the left was when i first started, the one next is where i have finished so far, and then the Timings plus Sub Timings as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


That's the ram I got for my system. 2133 so far stable to 4.8 @ 1.405v. Temps are mid to high 60s at full load AIDA64. I have got 4.9 to boot @ 1.490v. Still testing lower voltage to find lowest and testing stability accordingly. This is on my 4820k.
I've been preaching this ram since I got it! XMP no problems. Period


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> It seems that the general consensus is in line with what I have found myself. Personally, I can not justify spending extra on something that will not show me gains, that being said, I understand the people that do. As well, I am sure that most of you that are able to spend $500 on a declining platform have the funds to spend on the best other hardware as well, whereas, being on disability prevents me from getting the best hardware there is. I feel that I have done fairly with what I have though, 2x670ftw cards in SLI, 32GB of RAM, R4BE, 4820K (interim CPU), 2X27" IPS panels, Logitech G25/710+, Harman Kardon AVR 2650, 2x250GB Samsung 840 Evo's in RAID0, R.A.T. 7, along with other goodies, and a good server, plus around 25TB of storage, I really can't complain...
> 
> Thank you to everyone that kept this discussion civil, and didn't go ape**** whiny pants because of a disagreement.


Once you hit the top-end hardware, re-sale value is usually pretty high, meaning that for a small re-investment, you can keep your system current for very little cost, if you play the market well. Before I was doing reviews, that's what I did to fund my LN2 OC adventures for many years. This current rig I have started with a 3960X, 16 GB of 2133 MHz ram, a P9X79 Deluxe, and triple HD6950s. I sold the 6950's to miners, got 7950's, the moved up to 7970s, and also tried dual GTX670s for a little bit. MSI has been very good to me, providing me with some great VGAs to use in my test systems, which allowed me to save the cash for this GTX780 Ti SLi purchase. It basically took me a year of doing reviews to afford them. Corsair and G.Skill keep me outfitted with ram for board testing, while the other brands give me review samples.

And yeah, the guys and gals here are pretty decent folk.

So if relating my experience playing with this hardware helps... it's the least I can do. I personally feel pretty fortunate that companies like ASUS send me hardware, and often early like the ES board I have now, so when stuff like that happens, I do my best to return the favor in forums, since I MSUT remain impartial in reviews. I don't pull any punches in my reviews... I state in my memory reviews that the tests I use were specifically chosen because they show differences, and not all apps will. And when ASUS or MSI or anyone else does something that I don't approve of (like boost Turbo profiling), I point that out, too.

I think my overall attitude here is common to pretty much all the folks posting here. Everyone just appreciates the hardware for what it is, and there is very little fanboys anymore just in general.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> It seems that the general consensus is in line with what I have found myself. Personally, I can not justify spending extra on something that will not show me gains, that being said, I understand the people that do. As well, I am sure that most of you that are able to spend $500 on a declining platform have the funds to spend on the best other hardware as well, whereas, being on disability prevents me from getting the best hardware there is. I feel that I have done fairly with what I have though, 2x670ftw cards in SLI, 32GB of RAM, R4BE, 4820K (interim CPU), 2X27" IPS panels, Logitech G25/710+, Harman Kardon AVR 2650, 2x250GB Samsung 840 Evo's in RAID0, R.A.T. 7, along with other goodies, and a good server, plus around 25TB of storage, I really can't complain...
> 
> Thank you to everyone that kept this discussion civil, and didn't go ape**** whiny pants because of a disagreement.


We often find logical reason to justify an actual emotional decision, we love having the best. Need it? not really. just really really want it.


----------



## Ajay57

What i did was get a Rock solid OC @ 4.2 Mhz once i had that, then i started to Overclock the RAM and TIMINGS by hand!!

It can take a couple of days of tweaking but, once you have your timings set up you can save to the Bios Profiles and use that for all your CPU overclocks as well.

If your looking to give this a try just let me know!!

AJ.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> UEFI 0602 beta for anyone that wants to test. Some changes to current sensing for OCP (leave on auto to test), and some 125 strap changes for SNB-E (still evaluating the latter). No other changes.
> 
> My personal media fire account link for download: https://www.mediafire.com/?7qw9wjnz88g570p
> 
> -Raja


Hi Raja. This BOIS will not flash from flashing tool built into BIOS for me, says "The File is not a UEFI BIOS".

Thoughts?


----------



## axiumone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Hi Raja. This BOIS will not flash from flashing tool built into BIOS for me, says "The File is not a UEFI BIOS".
> 
> Thoughts?


How are you trying to flash it? I've had no problems with it. Put it on a usb stick and flashed through UEFI.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> How are you trying to flash it? I've had no problems with it. Put it on a usb stick and flashed through UEFI.


Nope, didn't work.

AI Suite did.

So, it didn't fix my issues with booting at actual default settings. Board fails to post during PCH initialization.(Q-LED code 96)

MEI and LAN failing to work on cold boot now makes sense. Also might explain the issues I had with 3960X and PCIe slot not working, and why I got a second board too, perhaps. Too bad I donated that board to a benching team.

Guess it's time to leave the clubhouse...no RMA on ES = I'll be using a different board. Have fun guys!


----------



## nickolp1974

I flashed the new bios in the bios and no problems for me, was going to put it on bios 2 but it appears i don't have a bios on there which is odd, hope the rog connect way works.


----------



## axiumone

UPS dropped off some goodies today.














A little disappointed with the performance compared to the asrock x79 extreme11 right now.

Stock cpu asus - cpu turbo max 3900
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1822503
15,045 points

Stock cpu asrock - cpu turbo max 3700
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1819678
16,038 points

Can't figure out what the issue is. Could it be bandwidth? Asrock runs 16x pcie on all 4 cards, asus runs 16x,8x,8x,8x.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> I flashed the new bios in the bios and no problems for me, was going to put it on bios 2 but it appears i don't have a bios on there which is odd, hope the rog connect way works.


The USB BIOS Flashback option in BIOS offers flashing form BIOS1 to BIOS2


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> The USB BIOS Flashback option in BIOS offers flashing form BIOS1 to BIOS2


I used asus EZ flash and just flashed the previous version with the new one.


----------



## cosmomobay

A little disappointed with the performance compared to the asrock x79 extreme11 right now.

Stock cpu asus - cpu turbo max 3900
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1822503
15,045 points

Stock cpu asrock - cpu turbo max 3700
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1819678
16,038 points

Can't figure out what the issue is. Could it be bandwidth? Asrock runs 16x pcie on all 4 cards, asus runs 16x,8x,8x,8x.[/quote]

This board Pci is X16 X8 X16 X8. go into the Bios and make sure it's set to Gen 3.


----------



## doctakedooty

@cosmomobay pretty sure this board only does 16x 8x 8x 8x for 4 way only time you get 2 16x is with 3 way or 2 way


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> @cosmomobay pretty sure this board only does 16x 8x 8x 8x for 4 way only time you get 2 16x is with 3 way or 2 way


Sorry I didn't check his built, that he is 4 way.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> UPS dropped off some goodies today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little disappointed with the performance compared to the asrock x79 extreme11 right now.
> 
> Stock cpu asus - cpu turbo max 3900
> http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1822503
> 15,045 points
> 
> Stock cpu asrock - cpu turbo max 3700
> http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1819678
> 16,038 points
> 
> Can't figure out what the issue is. Could it be bandwidth? Asrock runs 16x pcie on all 4 cards, asus runs 16x,8x,8x,8x.


Did you put the 0507 bios or you are still on the original 0403?


----------



## axiumone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Did you put the 0507 bios or you are still on the original 0403?


I'm using 0602 that Raja posted.

I triple checked, it's set to gen3 in bios.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Hi Raja. This BOIS will not flash from flashing tool built into BIOS for me, says "The File is not a UEFI BIOS".
> 
> Thoughts?


Assuming all is well this only happens if one tries to flash it from a NTFS based drive instead of FAT32.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VAL79*
> 
> I can't wait to get this motherboard up and running, just waiting on my case to arrive!


I'm waiting on a case too! *cough cough*


----------



## SDMODNoob

Hey Raja, would you be able to comment on when ASUS will have the RIVBE in stock for advanced RMAs? Been waiting about a month now since my Newegg RMA window expired and still no stock when I checked in with ASUS support by phone for an advanced replacement.


----------



## [email protected]

I don't work in RMA, so do not know, sorry.


----------



## skupples

@[email protected] You need an avatar. Something extremely stereotypical like this...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I think my overall attitude here is common to pretty much all the folks posting here. Everyone just appreciates the hardware for what it is, and there is very little fanboys anymore just in general.


gonna have to disagree about this, just tell people you prefer amd>intel
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> We often find logical reason to justify an actual emotional decision, we love having the best. Need it? not really. just really really want it.


this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Guess it's time to leave the clubhouse...no RMA on ES = I'll be using a different board. Have fun guys!


... totally hope you are joking !!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *VAL79*
> 
> I can't wait to get this motherboard up and running, just waiting on my case to arrive!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm waiting on a case too! *cough cough*
Click to expand...

i saw that too welcome to the Caselabs family man ! congrats ! i just got my second, now to work on my third and last case for my main pcs !


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ... totally hope you are joking !!


Nope. I cannot leave 5K worth of hardware plugged into a faulty board, and I cannot afford to buy another RIVBE.

Heck, Raja WORKS at ASUS, and bought his.

I am stable for like no more than 10 minutes after flashing the "new" BIOS, not that the BIOS made anything worse... merely helped diagnose the problems I have been having.

It is really hard to write a review on a system that crashes every few sentences. This is literally the 5th time I've tried to post this, even.









I have to wait for my wife to get home so I can steal her laptop and get some writing done, then I'll try to figure out my rebuild. I have tonnes of other boards sitting here, but nothing for this socket right now. Maybe I'll sell a few other boards and buy another RIVBE, but it won't be for a few months at least.


----------



## skupples

OK, going from 403 to the new 602 beta, wish me luck.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Nope. I cannot leave 5K worth of hardware plugged into a faulty board, and I cannot afford to buy another RIVBE.
> 
> Heck, Raja WORKS at ASUS, and bought his.
> 
> I am stable for like no more than 10 minutes after flashing the "new" BIOS, not that the BIOS made anything worse... merely helped diagnose the problems I have been having.
> 
> It is really hard to write a review on a system that crashes every few sentences. This is literally the 5th time I've tried to post this, even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to wait for my wife to get home so I can steal her laptop and get some writing done, then I'll try to figure out my rebuild. I have tonnes of other boards sitting here, but nothing for this socket right now. Maybe I'll sell a few other boards and buy another RIVBE, but it won't be for a few months at least.


Ok, everyone that got help from Dave chip in toward a new BE so we can keep him around here helping us all out!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Ok, everyone that got help from Dave chip in toward a new BE so we can keep him around here helping us all out!


If he posts a paypal I'll donate.


----------



## skupples

Pushed the beta bios. Strap 125 is actually working now, running 4.8 @ 1.455 w/ high LLC, 1.1VTT/VCCSA @ 2333mhz w/ stock timings.




stressing atm.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> gonna have to disagree about this, just tell people you prefer amd>intel
> this
> ... totally hope you are joking !!
> i saw that too welcome to the Caselabs family man ! congrats ! i just got my second, now to work on my third and last case for my main pcs !


What's wrong with my post?


----------



## gdubc

Mega is a AMD fan so he is saying that he knows from experience that if you say you prefer AMD then the Intel fanboys will come out in force!


----------



## LunaP

Well I've got nothing left but to try the new bios, I keep getting bluescreens w/ NO messages on them just a STOP error, which to me from experience is hardware related. Back on stock speeds again, doesn't matter what I set RAM to, timings, straps, etc, even went to 4.2 nothing. I don't know what's wrong the board, or my CPU, I get it's a lot of RAM but when a company guarantees it they need to back it up especially when no disclaimer.

060x I guess, not sure what else to do. This def sucks though. Comp just locks up and sits @ the BSOD doesn't reboot dump or anything.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Well I've got nothing left but to try the new bios, I keep getting bluescreens w/ NO messages on them just a STOP error, which to me from experience is hardware related. Back on stock speeds again, doesn't matter what I set RAM to, timings, straps, etc, even went to 4.2 nothing. I don't know what's wrong the board, or my CPU, I get it's a lot of RAM but when a company guarantees it they need to back it up especially when no disclaimer.
> 
> 060x I guess, not sure what else to do. This def sucks though. Comp just locks up and sits @ the BSOD doesn't reboot dump or anything.


Have you tried using half the memory?

Does it crash with default settings as well?


----------



## skupples

I would have RMA'D that board a month ago.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I think my overall attitude here is common to pretty much all the folks posting here. Everyone just appreciates the hardware for what it is, and there is very little fanboys anymore just in general.
> 
> 
> 
> gonna have to disagree about this, just tell people you prefer amd>intel
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What's wrong with my post?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Mega is a AMD fan so he is saying that he knows from experience that if you say you prefer AMD then the Intel fanboys will come out in force!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> We often find logical reason to justify an actual emotional decision, we love having the best. Need it? not really. just really really want it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this
Click to expand...

i was agreeing with you 2 separate statements unrelated


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Have you tried using half the memory?
> 
> Does it crash with default settings as well?


Several times throughout the history of the thread lol, this is actually the 3rd time you've asked actually







in the past couple months. SOrry just blah its time to RMA.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would have RMA'D that board a month ago.


I would if they had an RMA service that worked, from what I hear its like a 2 year wait


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Several times throughout the history of the thread lol, this is actually the 3rd time you've asked actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in the past couple months. SOrry just blah its time to RMA.
> I would if they had an RMA service that worked, from what I hear its like a 2 year wait


Lol, if that is the case, then yes. RMA it is









Or try the RIVE.


----------



## Sluggo

Success! About 15 minutes with the Monsoon heat gun on high setting pointed at the I/O heat sink and the glue began to give when twisting the pipe. A couple of semi gentle pulling twists, and it slid right out. The process was a bit easier than I thought it would be.


----------



## skupples

Has anyone tried putting it back in?


----------



## Mega Man

woot nices @@@@


----------



## skupples

May have to go borrow a heat gun from Home Depot this weekend.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> May have to go borrow a heat gun from Home Depot this weekend.


hahaha wont take as long as they are much higher output then the one he used,


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hahaha wont take as long as they are much higher output then the one he used,


True indeed. The one I used made me a little nervous after having it on high setting for that long. It's not the highest quality heat gun, but you get what you pay for.


----------



## Sluggo

The board just looks so much better with the shroud on.


----------



## Nizzen

Is there any new betabioses, or modded betabioses? I use 0507 now with my 4960x

It is hard to manage over 4800mhz and 2666mhz memory on my cpu. Sweetspot is 4750/2666 cl10 on watercooling.

With the same board my old 3930k does 5.2ghz stable, but with only 2133 memory without going crazy with voltage


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizzen*
> 
> Is there any new betabioses, or modded betabioses? I use 0507 now with my 4960x
> 
> It is hard to manage over 4800mhz and 2666mhz memory on my cpu. Sweetspot is 4750/2666 cl10 on watercooling.
> 
> With the same board my old 3930k does 5.2ghz stable, but with only 2133 memory without going crazy with voltage


I am also looking forward to new BIOS







:thumb:


----------



## tvelander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> The board just looks so much better with the shroud on.




Love it so hard
















Soon my BUILD is done !


----------



## Gunslinger.

Man that looks pretty sweet with the shroud reinstalled.

Now the real challenge begins, still having it look pretty with everything hooked up to it.


----------



## kzinti1

For Club Membership: http://valid.canardpc.com/0wd316


----------



## yttocstfarc

Just thought I would share this. Didn't know if any of you had seen it yet. It's the new Real Bench V2 from ASUS.

http://rog.asus.com/rog-pro/realbench-v2-leaderboard/?Laptop=all&CPU=intel&gpu=2&Core=Rampage&view=1


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzinti1*
> 
> For Club Membership: http://valid.canardpc.com/0wd316


Welcome aboard!


----------



## skupples

Oh.... Quick question... Where the hell is the bios settings save feature, & does it require a thumb drive? I need to reformat, and I would like to transfer these settings over, thought some one mentioned it, can't find my manual.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Oh.... Quick question... Where the hell is the bios settings save feature, & does it require a thumb drive? I need to reformat, and I would like to transfer these settings over, thought some one mentioned it, can't find my manual.


same area as you save your profile
i dont have time or i would clip a pic for you

are abut you save to usb drive, yes you need a usb drive, my amd asus boards dont have this feature, my giga ud7 does and it is the only one i have seen that allows me to save to hdd/sdd

or you can also save to a sd card as well


----------



## skupples

Are you telling me iv'e been looking @ it every time iv'e pressed f10? have to go check. =P

Wonder if I can flash it to a formatted SDcard.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Lol, if that is the case, then yes. RMA it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or try the RIVE.


Not sure the 4960 would work so well in the RIVE and its a downgrade given the mem. However yes to answer your question its only stable on stock.

Been sick and in bed past couple days so ill catch up either tomorrow or mo day lots of new members i nees to add + update the OP


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Not sure the 4960 would work so well in the RIVE and its a downgrade given the mem. However yes to answer your question its only stable on stock.
> 
> Been sick and in bed past couple days so ill catch up either tomorrow or mo day lots of new members i nees to add + update the OP


4960x would work perfectly fine on a RIVE, but your system is solid on default. Then you can start overclocking in stages until it crashes. That will help you pinpoint the source if your problem.

Start overclocking your memory, it just sounds like your CPU cant handle overclocked memory too well, but only you can be sure after testing. I wouldnt overclock the CPU until I make sure the memory is stable.

If it turns out that the memory is stable at its rated speeds with cpu at stock, at least you'll know your memory is ok.

When you overclock your CPU, I'm assuming you're doing so with memory at default values. So, make sure the cpu is stable, if that goes well, then see if overclocking the memory causes instability. If it does, that's more likely a CPU problem, not a board broken.

It's a really long process, but that's the only way you'll get to the bottom of this.

I went through all kinds of hell testing my system, just to find out all I needed was a clean OS install. My wasn't stable even at default settings, so I was ready to set it on fire.


----------



## 2slick4u

I own a RIVBE







awesome board i must say!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Just thought I would share this. Didn't know if any of you had seen it yet. It's the new Real Bench V2 from ASUS.
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/rog-pro/realbench-v2-leaderboard/?Laptop=all&CPU=intel&gpu=2&Core=Rampage&view=1


Glad you bought that up - it's a real world type bench and stress test. 2 hours of that passed with enough memory assigned is enough to gauge any 24/7 OC.

We have more exciting stuff to come with this software (working on getting 32GB and 64GB options next, with some more stuff)..


----------



## skupples

So the general consensus is that shut downs w/o BSOD are memory related, correct?

Now that strap is properly working i'm trying to get the mem up on my 3930k. Have it @ 4.9xx w/ 2333, but it's ever so slightly unstable. It primes fine w/ high memory amounts, but is still randomly shutting down every few hours.


----------



## [email protected]

Shutdown ~ restart without a BSOD could be CPU VRM OCP or memory related (VCCSA and VTT can cause it).


----------



## axiumone

I started having the strangest issue last night. My PC just randomly turned on through the night. I had to shut it down a few times. All "wake-on" features are disabled. All of my components stayed the same, except for the black.


----------



## Tonu

Validation for club: http://valid.canardpc.com/p69lit

Just need a case window to show it off


----------



## Jpmboy

Asus pic. UHD:


----------



## skupples

Very nice! Would be cool if it fit 1080p surround.


----------



## skupples

Quick question for those of you who have the chipset block/have experience with the chipset block... Do you go... GPU>chipset>cpu>VRM>out?

I'm trying to envision how i'm going to do it, but my mind is clouded by the dark side.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quick question for those of you who have the chipset block/have experience with the chipset block... Do you go... GPU>chipset>cpu>VRM>out?
> I'm trying to envision how i'm going to do it, but my mind is clouded by the dark side.


i know it's a dumb question... where'd you get the chipset blocks?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quick question for those of you who have the chipset block/have experience with the chipset block... Do you go... GPU>chipset>cpu>VRM>out?
> 
> I'm trying to envision how i'm going to do it, but my mind is clouded by the dark side.


I did gpu > top rad> CPU> chipset> VRAM> Res,

That leaves me with only one shirt tube run between CPU and chipset. Everything else has a good distance that can be made with regular tubing.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Very nice! Would be cool if it fit 1080p surround.


4Kx2K only. maybe there is an 8Kx4k version... the 8K wallpapers I have are too big to post here.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> i know it's a dumb question... where'd you get the chipset blocks?


EK makes one, XSPC makes one, and heatkiller just released theirs.


----------



## Errorist66

Question about overclocking. I can run AIDA64 System stability test at 4.5GHz on an I7-4930K fairly easy. But 4.6 always fails within 30 minutes. Tried Vcore at 1.45v and vccsa at 1.45v to no avail. Is this an indication that I should invest into a water block for the chipset and power delivery? Or is the strap at 125 the answer? When I tried 125 strap, the system shuts down as if OCP kicks in.
Or I need to play with the voltage frequency?


----------



## skupples

1.45 sounds really high for secondary voltages.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Got my new build all up and running! Rampage IV black with an I7-4930K. Trying to push the CPU while keeping the memory at 2400MHz!
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/6tsupa
> 
> I asked the same question on the ASUS forum and I was told that both connector plugged is best.


I still didn't make the official list. Do I also need a picture of my system?


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 1.45 sounds really high for secondary voltages.


I know it's scary high but it still fails the stability test. So I have to either live with 4.5 or find some other route to OC.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> i know it's a dumb question... where'd you get the chipset blocks?


ordering this one would work.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22890/ex-blc-1640/EK_ASUS_Rampage_IV_Black_Edition_Full_Board_Cooling_Block_Kit_-_Acetal_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FB_KIT_ASUS_R4BE_-_AcetalNickel_Original_CSQ.html?tl=g57c605s1916


----------



## skupples

Luna has been ill, he will update the OP when he gets back on his feet.


----------



## gdubc

I haven't seen the heatkiller ones yet


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I haven't seen the heatkiller ones yet


Yeah I'd just seen B NEGATIVE post a couple pics of them in the water cooling club thread ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> And from my favorite block makers....


I don't doubt that they probably perform better but I'm still more partial to the stealthier all-black look of the XSPC blocks. I also prefer copper over nickel, though heatkiller does know how to do Nickel right, unlike EK.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Question about overclocking. I can run AIDA64 System stability test at 4.5GHz on an I7-4930K fairly easy. But 4.6 always fails within 30 minutes. Tried Vcore at 1.45v and vccsa at 1.45v to no avail. Is this an indication that I should invest into a water block for the chipset and power delivery? Or is the strap at 125 the answer? When I tried 125 strap, the system shuts down as if OCP kicks in.
> Or I need to play with the voltage frequency?


VCCSA should be kept below 1.2volts or damage could be caused to the IMC on the CPU!!

VCCSA + VTT should be 0.05 volts of each other!

VTT should be 1.15volts and the second VTTCPU should be within 0.4 volts of your VTT!

If your not sure what you are doing then you are looking at potential damage to your CPU etc!!

These settings are from 8PACKS who should know what he is doing!!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## skupples

I pretty much run them all @ 1.2 to keep my memory stable @ 2333 now. It will prime for hours and hours w/ high memory usage, but will still randomly reboot.

(3930k)


----------



## Ajay57

Hey Skup where did you get the NEW AVATAR??? Mind you i did like the other one best with the Mask lol!!!

Yeah you could teach me how to overclock!!!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## skupples

O.O, i just plug in numbers and hope things don't go boom.









I can't divulge WHY i'm using this avatar in the open thread, but if you would like to know PM me.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 4960x would work perfectly fine on a RIVE, but your system is solid on default. Then you can start overclocking in stages until it crashes. That will help you pinpoint the source if your problem.
> 
> Start overclocking your memory, it just sounds like your CPU cant handle overclocked memory too well, but only you can be sure after testing. I wouldnt overclock the CPU until I make sure the memory is stable.
> 
> If it turns out that the memory is stable at its rated speeds with cpu at stock, at least you'll know your memory is ok.
> 
> When you overclock your CPU, I'm assuming you're doing so with memory at default values. So, make sure the cpu is stable, if that goes well, then see if overclocking the memory causes instability. If it does, that's more likely a CPU problem, not a board broken.
> 
> It's a really long process, but that's the only way you'll get to the bottom of this.
> 
> I went through all kinds of hell testing my system, just to find out all I needed was a clean OS install. My wasn't stable even at default settings, so I was ready to set it on fire.


Yeah as far as history goes

Cpu is easily stable for days at 4.5 on 1.225v i havent tried lower. This is with all 64gb in stock 1333 both ripjaws and trident x kits.

Trident x kits got to 2333 on block 125 but no higher than 2133 on 100 due to mismatch.

Ripjaws boot to 2400 on 4.5 with xmp settings however mem speeds are horrible. Dropping to 2133 and tweaking timings solves this but after a while a random bsod appears meaning i either skipped a clock cycle or a pool error.
Deopping to 1866 does it faster.

At stock speeds with 32gb and 64gb at 1333 cpu cannot go above 4.5 if i increase voltage enough say 1.4+ windows goes pixel haven on me and freezes at load. Only fix is by resetting bios to optimized defaults vs just resetting settings to get it to load back into windows.

I tested a few things today while waiting for antibiotics to kick in.

Cpu must be set more than 100% for llc or it will not boot at 4.5

Cad had me running 180% at very high. I currently have it now sitting on prime and other benchmarks stable at 150% extreme.

There has to be a reason why at 1.225 i cant hit 4.5 but there appears to be a 90 foot wall for 4.6 in which i can find no curve for.

I definitely notice the speed diff between 2133 vs 1333 in games and others mai ly due to surround so theres something to take in for the one guy that was asking.

Something is amiss with these settings.

My next question woukd fall on pcie and cpu spread spectrum. People say to disable it though what does wnabling it do ?

Also at AJ 1.2+ is still ok as most higher end RAM kits require 1.25 vccsa. My ripjaws do. And for 2133 they require 1.2

There should be a calculator for vtt llc and vccsa settings so we can keep them within their respective timings as i feel the slightest offset can jam things at any given time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Luna has been ill, he will update the OP when he gets back on his feet.


Yeah ill have it updated later on today after i wake up. Been frustrated with attempting settings and looking for answers + si us infection making things worse.

I do t want to reinstall windows without assurance of some way to see if it may be an issue with the os. Especially given what i said above.

My apologies on my absence and thanks for keeping people informed guys. Writing this all from my phone lol...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah as far as history goes
> 
> Cpu is easily stable for days at 4.5 on 1.225v i havent tried lower. This is with all 64gb in stock 1333 both ripjaws and trident x kits.
> 
> Trident x kits got to 2333 on block 125 but no higher than 2133 on 100 due to mismatch.
> 
> Ripjaws boot to 2400 on 4.5 with xmp settings however mem speeds are horrible. Dropping to 2133 and tweaking timings solves this but after a while a random bsod appears meaning i either skipped a clock cycle or a pool error.
> Deopping to 1866 does it faster.
> 
> At stock speeds with 32gb and 64gb at 1333 cpu cannot go above 4.5 if i increase voltage enough say 1.4+ windows goes pixel haven on me and freezes at load. Only fix is by resetting bios to optimized defaults vs just resetting settings to get it to load back into windows.
> 
> I tested a few things today while waiting for antibiotics to kick in.
> 
> Cpu must be set more than 100% for llc or it will not boot at 4.5
> 
> Cad had me running 180% at very high. I currently have it now sitting on prime and other benchmarks stable at 150% extreme.
> 
> There has to be a reason why at 1.225 i cant hit 4.5 but there appears to be a 90 foot wall for 4.6 in which i can find no curve for.
> 
> I definitely notice the speed diff between 2133 vs 1333 in games and others mai ly due to surround so theres something to take in for the one guy that was asking.
> 
> Something is amiss with these settings.
> 
> My next question woukd fall on pcie and cpu spread spectrum. People say to disable it though what does wnabling it do ?
> 
> Also at AJ 1.2+ is still ok as most higher end RAM kits require 1.25 vccsa. My ripjaws do. And for 2133 they require 1.2
> 
> There should be a calculator for vtt llc and vccsa settings so we can keep them within their respective timings as i feel the slightest offset can jam things at any given time.
> Yeah ill have it updated later on today after i wake up. Been frustrated with attempting settings and looking for answers + si us infection making things worse.
> 
> I do t want to reinstall windows without assurance of some way to see if it may be an issue with the os. Especially given what i said above.
> 
> My apologies on my absence and thanks for keeping people informed guys. Writing this all from my phone lol...


Set the CPU to stock or a much lower overclock and see if the memory is still unstable. Try it with just xmp enabled.

If the memory becomes stable with a lower cpu overclock, it could just be your cpu.

If the memory remains unstable, try using fewer sticks.

Is there a way you can test those modules @ 2400mhz on another computer?

64gb @ 2400mhz on a 4.5 Ivy Bridge E chip is very volatile, especially if you have one of the early batches.

BTW, did you try the new beta BIOS 6204?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Set the CPU to stock or a much lower overclock and see if the memory is still unstable. Try it with just xmp enabled.
> 
> If the memory becomes stable with a lower cpu overclock, it could just be your cpu.
> 
> If the memory remains unstable, try using fewer sticks.
> 
> Is there a way you can test those modules @ 2400mhz on another computer?
> 
> 64gb @ 2400mhz on a 4.5 Ivy Bridge E chip is very volatile, especially if you have one of the early batches.
> 
> BTW, did you try the new beta BIOS 6204?


No at bios since raja only mentioned changes for sbe vs ivy.

As fir what you mentioned thats what i had explained in my previous post.

Cpu at stock and 4.5 can boot with 2400 though speeds are slow on the 2400 (aida) due to timings.

Cpu can hit 4.5 at stock mem

Mem can hit 2400 at stock cpu.

Both hit fine at 4.5 i just need to find out the proper timings else work with 2133. So.ething causes it to blue screen if left on long enough. Time is random but usually over 4-5 hours prior.

My chip is an A chip i believe was hopi g for a B.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> No at bios since raja only mentioned changes for sbe vs ivy.
> 
> As fir what you mentioned thats what i had explained in my previous post.
> 
> Cpu at stock and 4.5 can boot with 2400 though speeds are slow on the 2400 (aida) due to timings.
> 
> Cpu can hit 4.5 at stock mem
> 
> Mem can hit 2400 at stock cpu.
> 
> Both hit fine at 4.5 i just need to find out the proper timings else work with 2133. So.ething causes it to blue screen if left on long enough. Time is random but usually over 4-5 hours prior.
> 
> My chip is an A chip i believe was hopi g for a B.


There you go then, just find a middle ground where the cpu clocks and memory speeds/timings play well with each other. "A" batch cpus didn't clocked very well on average. It was the B batches that got beyond the 4.7 with lower voltages, at least from what I see on the cinebench thread and the few chips I had my hands on.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> There you go then, just find a middle ground where the cpu clocks and memory speeds/timings play well with each other. "A" batch cpus didn't clocked very well on average. It was the B batches that got beyond the 4.7 with lower voltages, at least from what I see on the cinebench thread and the few chips I had my hands on.


"There u go"

Not following as this is what ive been seeking help with since the get go lol....

Anyways if i end up rmaing the board then i may just sell the chip and buy one thats a b off ebay.

Im worried that the missing contacts in the pcie coukd be messing with things as well...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> "There u go"
> 
> Not following as this is what ive been seeking help with since the get go lol....
> 
> Anyways if i end up rmaing the board then i may just sell the chip and buy one thats a b off ebay.
> 
> Im worried that the missing contacts in the pcie coukd be messing with things as well...


I don't read every single post on this thread. If you mentioned it before, I must have missed it or misunderstood your problem. Now that it's clearly an overclocking problem, we need to pin point the source.
I would hold off on that rma, until we know for sure it's the board. It will suck to for you to rma, and experience the same problem with a new board. I'm seriously doubting you have a bad board.


----------



## szeged

Idk with Lunas luck I'm surprised everything he got for that build didn't arrive doa.


----------



## axiumone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> I started having the strangest issue last night. My PC just randomly turned on through the night. I had to shut it down a few times. All "wake-on" features are disabled. All of my components stayed the same, except for the black.


Is there some kind of a power on timer function that Im missing in uefi? This is really creepy. Unless I turn off the psu the board will power on the pc in a few minutes after I shut down. I've never experienced anything like this..


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Is there some kind of a power on timer function that Im missing in uefi? This is really creepy. Unless I turn off the psu the board will power on the pc in a few minutes after I shut down. I've never experienced anything like this..


May not have anything to do with your issues, but a long time ago I had a PC that started turning on by itself. It turned out it was happening due to a faulty Seasonic psu. I only noticed it because I was getting ready to remove a cold cathode that was the most recent thing I had installed not too long before the issue started, and no sooner had I removed the side panel when I saw a flash inside the PSU and the computer turned itself on. I shined a flashlight into it and there were burnt wires that had obviously been shorting out together.


----------



## OPTIX ONE

Reminds me of the time I hit the sleep instead of shutdown. Everything turned off. But at like 3:00am everything turned on. Scared the **** out of me. With all the lights and everything. Woke up and thought I was in the exorcist movie


----------



## axiumone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> May not have anything to do with your issues, but a long time ago I had a PC that started turning on by itself. It turned out it was happening due to a faulty Seasonic psu. I only noticed it because I was getting ready to remove a cold cathode that was the most recent thing I had installed not too long before the issue started, and no sooner had I removed the side panel when I saw a flash inside the PSU and the computer turned itself on. I shined a flashlight into it and there were burnt wires that had obviously been shorting out together.


That actually may be exactly what's wrong with mine. I've been benching a lot lately and the psu was pushed hard. Maybe it developed a fault. I'll have to take a closer look. +rep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPTIX ONE*
> 
> Reminds me of the time I hit the sleep instead of shutdown. Everything turned off. But at like 3:00am everything turned on. Scared the **** out of me. With all the lights and everything. Woke up and thought I was in the exorcist movie


That's exactly how it was! My monitor woke me up in the middle of the night and creeped the hell out of me.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Hey guise! Finally got my scheit together, and alas, my first post!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ILLHvqX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/krJpr9b
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to start tweaking this thing.. Saw so many options in the bios!!


w000 welcome !!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Just wanted to join the club, even though i have posted a few times on here!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ajay57 05/03/14.
> 
> Regards to all.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> UPS dropped off some goodies today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little disappointed with the performance compared to the asrock x79 extreme11 right now.
> 
> Stock cpu asus - cpu turbo max 3900
> http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1822503
> 15,045 points
> 
> Stock cpu asrock - cpu turbo max 3700
> http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1819678
> 16,038 points
> 
> Can't figure out what the issue is. Could it be bandwidth? Asrock runs 16x pcie on all 4 cards, asus runs 16x,8x,8x,8x.


Interesting are you running an IVY-E chip or SB-E? If SB-E did you try the new bios?

Raja's 0602 beta bios
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Pushed the beta bios. Strap 125 is actually working now, running 4.8 @ 1.455 w/ high LLC, 1.1VTT/VCCSA @ 2333mhz w/ stock timings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stressing atm.


How's the new bios handling so far?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizzen*
> 
> I*s there any new betabioses*, or modded betabioses? I use 0507 now with my 4960x
> 
> It is hard to manage over 4800mhz and 2666mhz memory on my cpu. Sweetspot is 4750/2666 cl10 on watercooling.
> 
> With the same board my old 3930k does 5.2ghz stable, but with only 2133 memory without going crazy with voltage


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I am also looking forward to new BIOS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:


Here you go Raja's 0602 beta bios for RIVEBE
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzinti1*
> 
> For Club Membership: http://valid.canardpc.com/0wd316


Welcome!!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Just thought I would share this. Didn't know if any of you had seen it yet. It's the new Real Bench V2 from ASUS.
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/rog-pro/realbench-v2-leaderboard/?Laptop=all&CPU=intel&gpu=2&Core=Rampage&view=1


Adding this to the OP appreciate it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonu*
> 
> Validation for club: http://valid.canardpc.com/p69lit
> 
> Just need a case window to show it off


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Got my new build all up and running! Rampage IV black with an I7-4930K. Trying to push the CPU while keeping the memory at 2400MHz!
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/6tsupa
> 
> I asked the same question on the ASUS forum and I was told that both connector plugged is best.


Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome Welcome welcome welcome welcome welcome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Idk with Lunas luck I'm surprised everything he got for that build didn't arrive doa.


I'm more surprised my parts even delivered







especially w/ all the storms during xmas.

Ok list updated anyone else I"m missing ( went back 15 pages ) please check for your names and let me know I"ll be quick to add. Updated front page w/ latest BIOS links and change logs.



Changed my Frequency to 500 khz vs 300 for my CPU and booting @ 2133 @ 10-11-11-31 though read is 55gbs write is 39gbs so I need to adjust the timings again possibly 10-11-11-29

Gonna update to 0602 and try for 4.6 for starters. If I can get to 4.8 I'll be happy.


----------



## Ajay57

Hope you get much better soon Luna!!

Thanks for adding me to the list of members for this Mobo!

AJ.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah as far as history goes
> 
> Cpu is easily stable for days at 4.5 on 1.225v i havent tried lower. This is with all 64gb in stock 1333 both ripjaws and trident x kits.


I don't understand why some people wanna throw up incredible voltages at CPU, and expects atrocious clocks. This is reason why I said test it in mild overclock, or/and at stock, first, then do other things when you'd have rock stable settings.

So try minimal voltage for 3.9, or for 4.1 GHz with LLC at medium/or regular. If you wanna to find minimal voltage for 3.7 don't go under 0.7 V. If your PC is rock stable with 1333 do that with 1333.
Post results here. And also post what's your VCCSA at auto.

Then you'd do RAM related tests at 1600 MHz (type down 9-9-9-27 as your primary timings, leave others at auto). If successful go for 1866 MHz (type down 11-11-11-33 as your primary timings) If these timings would work, you might try to tighten them. I'm assuming you received your 64 GB kit already. AFAIK your kits can do this at 1.5 V, what's your DRAM voltage in both channels?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> *I don't understand why some people wanna throw up incredible voltages at CPU, and expects atrocious clocks*. This is reason why I said test it in mild overclock, or/and at stock, first, then do other things when you'd have rock stable settings.
> 
> So try minimal voltage for 3.9, or for 4.1 GHz with LLC at medium/or regular. If you wanna to find minimal voltage for 3.7 don't go under 0.7 V. If your PC is rock stable with 1333 do that with 1333.
> Post results here. And also post what's your VCCSA at auto.
> 
> Then you'd do RAM related tests at 1600 MHz (type down 9-9-9-27 as your primary timings, leave others at auto). If successful go for 1866 MHz (type down 11-11-11-33 as your primary timings) If these timings would work, you might try to tighten them. I'm assuming you received your 64 GB kit already. AFAIK your kits can do this at 1.5 V, what's your DRAM voltage in both channels?


I don't understand why either, glad I'm not doing that









Anyways I just updated the BIOS to 0602 and able to finally get to a windows logon screen vs loading screen before it shoots a fast BSOD.

Steps performed, tweaking voltage in case there wasn't enough for it to go in but after adding a full volt still the same effect, so something else is impeeding progress elsewhere, lowered RAM to 2000 (on block 125 as block 100 won't even dare touch it ) but wow did the temp's jump, I've never seen it go above 30C now its idling @ 45C w/ these settings lol (in bios)

Trying w/ 1333 atm again and seeing if that lands anything if it still BSOD's then ...n/m just BSOD'd something else is wrong lol.

still super fast BSOD's just as I get to the desktop.

Anyone have any suggestions of where I should look?

Interesting... lowered CPU fixed frequ KHz to 300 from 500 and now the BSOD stays vs rebooting. The STOP error is definitely referencing the CPU.

Ok so anytime on 100 block I go to 4.6+ it fritzes on pixels, but if I wait long enough the error/BSOD that comes up references the onboard NIC.

Resetting everything or changing fixes nothing I have to load optimized defaults, save, load into windows THEN restart and re add my settings again.


----------



## xarot

LunaP is this the board you are trying to troubleshoot? http://www.overclock.net/t/1454262/build-log-project-v-anime-gaming-code-name-yuna/130#post_21585560

Sorry to say but if yes I would dump that board and buy a new one. There are so many scratches on the PCB that probably some of the leads are broken and beyond repairable. Could be that some components are missing as well due to graphics card brackets hitting the board surface.

Just seeing so many issues it would be good to test on another board. That's just me but I wouldn't use a board like that myself.


----------



## skupples

while i would normally agree, all of those scratches are on the 100% separated sound card.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> LunaP is this the board you are trying to troubleshoot? http://www.overclock.net/t/1454262/build-log-project-v-anime-gaming-code-name-yuna/130#post_21585560
> 
> Sorry to say but if yes I would dump that board and buy a new one. There are so many scratches on the PCB that probably some of the leads are broken and beyond repairable. Could be that some components are missing as well due to graphics card brackets hitting the board surface.
> 
> Just seeing so many issues it would be good to test on another board. That's just me but I wouldn't use a board like that myself.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> while i would normally agree, all of those scratches are on the 100% separated sound card.


not only do i not see any deep scratches, just silk screen it is just the sound card. and probably from putting in / removing cards


----------



## friskiest

Hiii









Just picked up this beauty along with a 4930k for my M8 build




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Is EK the blocks of choice for cooling the essentials for this board? I'm torn between EK and Heatkiller blocks.

It'll be replacing a MVE/2700k combo which has treated me rather well for a while


----------



## gdubc

A lot of us have ek cuz it was the first thing out! A few have picked up the xspc version and the heatkiller is new to the scene with their b.e. blocks but all should be good. Kind of all depends on personal preference these days, for the most part.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Keep in mind guys this is my first jump into the enthusiast line of computers so I have Limited knowledge. I was able to get my 3570k Stable to 4.4 and have been running that overclock for over a year with no problems so I understand some of the basics

Anybody in the club with a 4820k? If not here is what I've learned in the past week overclocking the new rig. I will tell my steps for overclocking and what results I found. Each time I upped the multiplier x1 I went back into the bios loaded optimized defaults, restarted then changed values and saved and exited.

I started overclocking first by setting XMP 2133 and just upping the multiplier and letting the bios adjust all other adjustments on auto. I started with 4.4 and booted into windows. I did short stability test runs of 15 mins in AIDA64 it passed.
From there I went
4.5 Passed
4.6 Passed
4.7 Passed
4.8 When I booted into windows I noticed that the core voltage was set at 1.536 and that didn't set well with me so I changed it to 1.4v and booted into windows and stability test for 30 mins and it passed. Temps stayed in the mid 60's never even thought about touching 70c. I left it there for a few days just running normal programs, watching YouTube, Netflix, Star Trek Online, Assassin's Creed 4 and during that time I had 1 game crash of AC4. So I bumped the Voltage to 1.405 and left it there. Stability tested that voltage the other night for almost 3 hours then AIDA64 reported a failure.
So here are my questions and maybe you guys can give me some clarity.

1. I was under the impression that I would probably hit a temperature wall with the H100i and that it couldn't keep up with the added frequency and voltage. At full load Aida 64 still mid 60c. What gives?

2. How much higher on the core voltage can I go? In the Asus guide on ROG forum 1.4 was suggested not to go over for non extreme watercooling. I seem to be fine on temps.

3. I haven't had ANY blue screens lock ups freezes etc. Only application crashes, Aida 64, Prime 95 listing errors, The new real bench V2 crashing. Normal or no?

4. By the Ivy-e overclock guide 4.8ghz at 1.4v is only achievable in 2% of the CPU's tested. Did I really get that good of a chip?

5. So far 3 hours in a stress test (AIDA64) is the longest time I've been able to get the system to pass 4.8ghz @ 1.405 bios volts 1.424 under load voltage. It dosen't like Prime95 AT ALL. Only goes a few mins before showing an error.

My Rig is in my signature, as well as a 3dmark11 my best run so far. I am quite happy with the performance that I am getting. I guess I just need some questions answered and maybe some directions on how I should proceed from here. Looking foward to working with you guys and to see if I can learn some more about this system. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Ajay57

I would be more than happy with 4.7 as a solid OC and that is what you need to look at. The extra 100Hz in most cases you can not tell the difference using the PC to complete most tasks.

Its only when you are competing in Benchmarks that you would see any increase in scores for that matter!!

If it was my PC i would run it @ 4.5 for Web Browsing and save all the adjustments to the Bios Profiles, and then do the same for your 4.7 OC!

And use that one for Gaming and more demanding Apps that need that bit extra help from your CPU!

That way you are going to prolong the life of your CPU and keep it within the Voltage limits as well.

AJ.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Hiii
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just picked up this beauty along with a 4930k for my M8 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is EK the blocks of choice for cooling the essentials for this board? I'm torn between EK and Heatkiller blocks.
> 
> It'll be replacing a MVE/2700k combo which has treated me rather well for a while


And we're back on track!! Welcome !!! Either are fine depending on what you want, XSPC are great too , all depends on what you like for aesthetics. Haven't seen much on Heatkiller but I stay under 30 w/ my XSPC @ 4.5


----------



## webhito

Hi all!

I have been reading some mixed up comments regarding voltages and wanted to post mine, is there anything amiss? My cpu is clocked at 4.2 Just wanted to know if vtt and vccsa voltages are correct. Everything works fine, gaming wise it never fails, prime 95 also works however ibt crashes before one pass. ( I honestly don't care ).

I would appreciate your comments, as I would not like to kill this 3970x.


----------



## [email protected]

If the system is stable with everything you do with it then you can run those voltages. If not, then you will have to make some voltage changes. None of those voltages are considered close to being "unsafe" for the SNB-E CPUs so you have room to play if you need it.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> If the system is stable with everything you do with it then you can run those voltages. If not, then you will have to make some voltage changes. None of those voltages are considered close to being "unsafe" for the SNB-E CPUs so you have room to play if you need it.


Yep, for day to day work it has been just fine, even benchmarking doesn't give me any issues.

Glad to hear I am safe from any damage.

Thanks Raja!


----------



## UAEGANGSTER111

Hi
I just got my RIVBE today along with 4930k(from Malaysia)



I am waiting on the cooling which will be Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> while i would normally agree, all of those scratches are on the 100% separated sound card.


Seems like that yeah. But I also read that some pins got pulled off from a PCIe slot so not exactly sure the damage is limited to the sound card...hopefully he gets it figured out sooner or later


----------



## centvalny

oc guide from Team Russia with psc ram


----------



## sabishiihito

Well, it helps to have good PSC that can run the tight 2400 profile stably


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> And we're back on track!! Welcome !!! Either are fine depending on what you want, XSPC are great too , all depends on what you like for aesthetics. Haven't seen much on Heatkiller but I stay under 30 w/ my XSPC @ 4.5


Thanks.








I guess I should clarify that I meant motherboard blocks. I've got my cpu and gpu blocks sorted already, and was leaning towards the ek blocks for the board itself, to continue the clean csq look of the rest of the blocks, but now I'm starting to wonder if it really is necessary to wc the board, other than looks?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> And we're back on track!! Welcome !!! Either are fine depending on what you want, XSPC are great too , all depends on what you like for aesthetics. Haven't seen much on Heatkiller but I stay under 30 w/ my XSPC @ 4.5
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I should clarify that I meant motherboard blocks. I've got my cpu and gpu blocks sorted already, and was leaning towards the ek blocks for the board itself, to continue the clean csq look of the rest of the blocks, but now I'm starting to wonder if it really is necessary to wc the board, other than looks?
Click to expand...

vrms, yes


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabishiihito*
> 
> Well, it helps to have good PSC that can run the tight 2400 profile stably


Pretty much any decent 2133+ psc will do with 1.8~1.83V 8-12-8 twcl 7

Ivyb-e's imc easier to clock up comparo to haswell


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> The board just looks so much better with the shroud on.


Hi Slogo,

or anyone with water block on the MB and CPU. What is the height of the CPU block vs the chipset. Is it the same as the chipset and mosfet block? I want to add the EK block to my R4BE and I was thinking of using 90 degree swivel 1/4 to 1/2 barb and pre-connect them with a short tube. Then I would install them on the CPU block and the chip set block. I think that maybe I would need a 1/4 male-female short extension to align them.

Kind of hard to explain without a picture. But here's my skilled drawiing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> The board just looks so much better with the shroud on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Slogo,
> 
> or anyone with water block on the MB and CPU. What is the height of the CPU block vs the chipset. Is it the same as the chipset and mosfet block? I want to add the EK block to my R4BE and I was thinking of using 90 degree swivel 1/4 to 1/2 barb and pre-connect them with a short tube. Then I would install them on the CPU block and the chip set block. I think that maybe I would need a 1/4 male-female short extension to align them.
> 
> Kind of hard to explain without a picture. But here's my skilled drawiing.
Click to expand...

you can see in the pic the chipset is below the cpu block mounts ! i d k how much either though and wish that manufactures would start including that info with the blocks...


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Hi Slogo,
> 
> or anyone with water block on the MB and CPU. What is the height of the CPU block vs the chipset. Is it the same as the chipset and mosfet block? I want to add the EK block to my R4BE and I was thinking of using 90 degree swivel 1/4 to 1/2 barb and pre-connect them with a short tube. Then I would install them on the CPU block and the chip set block. I think that maybe I would need a 1/4 male-female short extension to align them.
> 
> Kind of hard to explain without a picture. But here's my skilled drawiing.


Errorist, on my board the mosfet block is practically flush with the cpu block. I just measured it and would say that it is in fact about half a millimeter higher than the cpu block. The southbridge block on the other hand is about 10mm lower than the cpu block. I hope this is the info you were looking for.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabishiihito*
> 
> Well, it helps to have good PSC that can run the tight 2400 profile stably


It's the same for any memory that has a profile, really. Board is tuned for clocking, and the profiles match the physical design. You can't really ask for more...just set voltage and go. Sure, you gotta pick the right parts sometimes...that's just good OCing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Ivyb-e's imc is easy comparo to haswell


Clocking, or performance?









Actually, it's pretty crazy how well IVB-E IMC scales, even my poopy chips do really well on ram.


----------



## skupples

I used nothing but hard fittings to connect my CPU block to VRM block, both are EK.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sluggo*
> 
> Errorist, on my board the mosfet block is practically flush with the cpu block. I just measured it and would say that it is in fact about half a millimeter higher than the cpu block. The southbridge block on the other hand is about 10mm lower than the cpu block. I hope this is the info you were looking for.


Perfect! Thanks. Staring at the 3rd picture it did start to look like the SB block was a bit lower.

So angle at 90 from CPU to mosfet would work. SB to CPU a 10mm spacer/adapter G1/4 male to G1/4 female would align them. I think a straight connect would look beter than trying to loop with flex cable without pinching them at the height of the loop.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Perfect! Thanks. Staring at the 3rd picture it did start to look like the SB block was a bit lower.
> 
> So angle at 90 from CPU to mosfet would work. SB to CPU a 10mm spacer/adapter G1/4 male to G1/4 female would align them. I think a straight connect would look beter than trying to loop with flex cable without pinching them at the height of the loop.


Yup, that sounds like a plan. Straight connects always look clean.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I used nothing but hard fittings to connect my CPU block to VRM block, both are EK.


nice. Do you have a picture around and a description of the fitting you used? when you have spare time.

Thanks.

lol, just thinking that I'll get kicked in the chin for talking water cooling in the R4BE forum instead of the WC one. Sorry girls and guys.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> nice. Do you have a picture around and a description of the fitting you used? when you have spare time.
> 
> Thanks.




2x alpha cool male to female 90 degree rotary fittings, and an alphacool male to male rotary in the middle.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_344&products_id=36441

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_344&products_id=33253


----------



## Errorist66

Thanks Skupples!


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Clocking, or performance?


Clocking



http://imgur.com/6llf6IK


----------



## Raghar

BTW does someone know minimum reasonable voltages for PLL, PLL termination, and VTT?
I seen a Shamino guide for HW, where he said CPU dislike PLL termination voltages in certain region, however it's not really applicable for Ivy-E.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> BTW does someone know minimum reasonable voltages for PLL, PLL termination, and VTT?
> I seen a Shamino guide for HW, where he said CPU dislike PLL termination voltages in certain region, however it's not really applicable for Ivy-E.


centvalny posted some info, check his posts for CPU termination rules. I found my own to work, but if Shamino wrote info, you know he's got the right idea and mine is just fanciful thinking.

Centvalny also ahs many screenshots with TurboV Lite with all of these voltages shown @ high CPU and high memory clocks.

So, when you look at those pics...he changes nothing, really. Neither have I. PLL termination works like GTL did on 775, and PLL V would be the source voltage, so you can paly a lot with the waveform and see what's best...which is likely going to be stock, with maybe a minor PLL increase, if not a decrease. For 24/7 PLL, I run 1.45V, with PLL termination to match, and PLL overvoltage enabled. My system just seem to run smoother this way.


----------



## yttocstfarc

You say Voltage Limits. What are the voltage limits for this CPU? I guess I just find it odd that even at 4.8 @1.405v I'm still good on temps.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> You say Voltage Limits. What are the voltage limits for this CPU? I guess I just find it odd that even at 4.8 @1.405v I'm still good on temps.


Prettyy sure Raja suggested 1.4V. Personally, I wouldn't go that high, and like to stay under 1.35V. I always err on the safe side though. 0.05V isn't enough to really matter in daily use for clocking unless you got a killer chip methinks.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Keep in mind guys this is my first jump into the enthusiast line of computers so I have Limited knowledge. I was able to get my 3570k Stable to 4.4 and have been running that overclock for over a year with no problems so I understand some of the basics
> 
> Anybody in the club with a 4820k? If not here is what I've learned in the past week overclocking the new rig. I will tell my steps for overclocking and what results I found. Each time I upped the multiplier x1 I went back into the bios loaded optimized defaults, restarted then changed values and saved and exited.
> 
> I started overclocking first by setting XMP 2133 and just upping the multiplier and letting the bios adjust all other adjustments on auto. I started with 4.4 and booted into windows. I did short stability test runs of 15 mins in AIDA64 it passed.
> From there I went
> 4.5 Passed
> 4.6 Passed
> 4.7 Passed
> 4.8 When I booted into windows I noticed that the core voltage was set at 1.536 and that didn't set well with me so I changed it to 1.4v and booted into windows and stability test for 30 mins and it passed. Temps stayed in the mid 60's never even thought about touching 70c. I left it there for a few days just running normal programs, watching YouTube, Netflix, Star Trek Online, Assassin's Creed 4 and during that time I had 1 game crash of AC4. So I bumped the Voltage to 1.405 and left it there. Stability tested that voltage the other night for almost 3 hours then AIDA64 reported a failure.
> So here are my questions and maybe you guys can give me some clarity.
> 
> 1. I was under the impression that I would probably hit a temperature wall with the H100i and that it couldn't keep up with the added frequency and voltage. At full load Aida 64 still mid 60c. What gives?
> 
> 2. How much higher on the core voltage can I go? In the Asus guide on ROG forum 1.4 was suggested not to go over for non extreme watercooling. I seem to be fine on temps.
> 
> 3. I haven't had ANY blue screens lock ups freezes etc. Only application crashes, Aida 64, Prime 95 listing errors, The new real bench V2 crashing. Normal or no?
> 
> 4. By the Ivy-e overclock guide 4.8ghz at 1.4v is only achievable in 2% of the CPU's tested. Did I really get that good of a chip?
> 
> 5. So far 3 hours in a stress test (AIDA64) is the longest time I've been able to get the system to pass 4.8ghz @ 1.405 bios volts 1.424 under load voltage. It dosen't like Prime95 AT ALL. Only goes a few mins before showing an error.
> 
> My Rig is in my signature, as well as a 3dmark11 my best run so far. I am quite happy with the performance that I am getting. I guess I just need some questions answered and maybe some directions on how I should proceed from here. Looking foward to working with you guys and to see if I can learn some more about this system. Thanks in advance!


Any other ideas/suggestions?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Prettyy sure Raja suggested 1.4V. Personally, I wouldn't go that high, and like to stay under 1.35V. I always err on the safe side though. 0.05V isn't enough to really matter in daily use for clocking unless you got a killer chip methinks.


Yeah that's what he said. -> "4.6GHz at 1.40V is doable using water cooling - *we get loaded temps of around 80C on a good triple radiator water loop.* For users with air coolers, we recommend a maximum of 1.30V for Vcore - of course this is dependent on the type of air cooler and its capabilities. *Use a voltage that keeps loaded temps below 75 Celsius or so*."

*80c Full Load* on a *"Triple Radiator Water Loop"*

I'm running a h100i and under full load 4.8ghz 1.405v I'm in the Mid 60s?!?! What gives?

Something isn't adding up here.


----------



## szeged

They must have had bad ambients, my 4930k didn't pass 65c with my loop at 1.42v and I forgot to turn plug in any of the fans lol. Having enough rad space for passive cooling is nice lol, I might try it next fall/winter. Definitely not in Florida summer though.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Something isn't adding up here.


You got a good chip, that's all. You don't know how lucky you are!

If Raja used 4960X, that explains some too. H100/H100i/H110 is not capable of keeping my chip under 75c @ 1.3V, nevermind 1.4V. I'm using an H80i right now, @ 1.28V, I get 78c loaded. Fan speed makes very little difference in temps.

So I think maybe some of these ES chips that he must have got, and I got...are either poopy, don't use solder for TIM...

or you got a fantastic chip.

I live in Canada... it's still winter...my ambient temperature is normally around 16c-17c.

And given how my poor chips work, the 4.3 GHz avg clocking as suggested by Raja makes sense too. And here you sit with 500 MHz more...


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You got a good chip, that's all. You don't know how lucky you are!
> 
> If Raja used 4960X, that explains some too. H100/H100i/H100 is not capable of keeping my chip under 75c @ 1.3V, nevermind 1.4V. I'm using an H80i right now, @ 1.28V, I get 78c loaded. Fan speed makes very little difference in temps.
> 
> So I think maybe some of these ES chips that he must have got, and I got...are either poopy, don't use solder for TIM...
> 
> or you got a fantastic chip.


He got a great one







that's for sure.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> He got a great one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's for sure.


Yes it seems I did. I knew when it went to 4.8 and was semi stable I had to have got a good one. The microcenter guy just reached in the pile...lol
So now the question is where to go from here? Drop back to say 4.5 4.6 find lowest stable voltage and call it good? Or keep going? Thoughts?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I have been reading some mixed up comments regarding voltages and wanted to post mine, is there anything amiss? My cpu is clocked at 4.2 Just wanted to know if vtt and vccsa voltages are correct. Everything works fine, gaming wise it never fails, prime 95 also works however ibt crashes before one pass. ( I honestly don't care ).


VCC is bit low for that speed (if LLC is at regular). 1.180 V is more likely to be perfectly stable. If IBT would crash at that voltage as well, it might be just a quirk of that particular CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Anybody in the club with a 4820k? If not here is what I've learned in the past week overclocking the new rig. I will tell my steps for overclocking and what results I found. Each time I upped the multiplier x1 I went back into the bios loaded optimized defaults, restarted then changed values and saved and exited.


I have 4820K. Can you check if your card is runing at PCI-E 3.0 standart? Look in NVidia inspector when card is at load.
Quote:


> 4.8 When I booted into windows I noticed that the core voltage was set at 1.536 and that didn't set well with me so I changed it to 1.4v and booted into windows and stability test for 30 mins and it passed. Temps stayed in the mid 60's never even thought about touching 70c. I left it there for a few days just running normal programs, watching YouTube, Netflix, Star Trek Online, Assassin's Creed 4 and during that time I had 1 game crash of AC4. So I bumped the Voltage to 1.405 and left it there. Stability tested that voltage the other night for almost 3 hours then AIDA64 reported a failure.
> So here are my questions and maybe you guys can give me some clarity.
> 
> 1. I was under the impression that I would probably hit a temperature wall with the H100i and that it couldn't keep up with the added frequency and voltage. At full load Aida 64 still mid 60c. What gives?


There is no temperature wall. There is only voltage that blows up your CPU and voltage that doesn't.
Quote:


> 2. How much higher on the core voltage can I go? In the Asus guide on ROG forum 1.4 was suggested not to go over for non extreme watercooling. I seem to be fine on temps.


1.300 V for safe overclocking. (Depends on LLC setting and cooling.)
Quote:


> 3. I haven't had ANY blue screens lock ups freezes etc. Only application crashes, Aida 64, Prime 95 listing errors, The new real bench V2 crashing. Normal or no?


Completely normal. When stuff go really strange, mostly related to RAM, it will shut down without any message.
Quote:


> 4. By the Ivy-e overclock guide 4.8ghz at 1.4v is only achievable in 2% of the CPU's tested. Did I really get that good of a chip?


That depends on minimal stable voltage required for 4.2. It's reasonable chip.
Quote:


> 5. So far 3 hours in a stress test (AIDA64) is the longest time I've been able to get the system to pass 4.8ghz @ 1.405 bios volts 1.424 under load voltage. It dosen't like Prime95 AT ALL. Only goes a few mins before showing an error.


Be careful with prime at these voltages. I'd try to find stable clock at these voltages ONLY when I'd have spare chip, or chiller. However I'm more interested in 24/7 overclocks at minimal power needed, and in settings that are comfy for CPU to be able to run stuff like prime for years without a glitch.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Thanks for the input! Yes I will ck that for you when I'm in front of my computer again. I want to say the answer is yes thou.

I will also try 4.2 and see how low I can get it stable and let you know.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Thanks for the input! Yes I will ck that for you when I'm in front of my computer again. I want to say the answer is yes thou.
> 
> I will also try 4.2 and see how low I can get it stable and let you know.


I ultimately found I had to apply slightly more voltage to my CPU vcore to stabilize my RAM. Then again I'm running 64gb 2133 vs your 16gb so it shouldn't require much. I had to go from 1.25 to 1.265 left the comp on for about 3 days no 0 crashes w/ games on and vm's up. Dropped my LLC from 180% to 150% (might be 160% need to check)

I think the highest I can go is 4625mhz, from what I've seen @ 125 block, I haven't heard anyone mention 150 block in a long time, and the 150,160 and 170 blocks in the bios (profiles ) throw me off I haven't touched them but curious on what other blocks are usable w/ these chips.

Cad , higher blocks require slighlty less voltage correct? For the record I'm on 100 BLCK @ 4.5 2133 11-13-13-31 stable, I'm gonna try tweaking the timings down to 9-10-10-28 later.

From what I've read from Cve if I give the RAM a bit more voltage I can tighten timings a bit better correct? Since they're running @ 1.6 figured I could pump to 1.65 or 1.7.


----------



## Gunslinger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I ultimately found I had to apply slightly more voltage to my CPU vcore to stabilize my RAM. Then again I'm running 64gb 2133 vs your 16gb so it shouldn't require much. I had to go from 1.25 to 1.265 left the comp on for about 3 days no 0 crashes w/ games on and vm's up. Dropped my LLC from 180% to 150% (might be 160% need to check)
> 
> I think the highest I can go is 4625mhz, from what I've seen @ 125 block, I haven't heard anyone mention 150 block in a long time, and the 150,160 and 170 blocks in the bios (profiles ) throw me off I haven't touched them but curious on what other blocks are usable w/ these chips.
> 
> Cad , higher blocks require slighlty less voltage correct? For the record I'm on 100 BLCK @ 4.5 2133 11-13-13-31 stable, I'm gonna try tweaking the timings down to 9-10-10-28 later.
> 
> From what I've read from Cve if I give the RAM a bit more voltage I can tighten timings a bit better correct? Since they're running @ 1.6 figured I could pump to 1.65 or 1.7.


If this is a 24/7 type system, I'd be real careful tightening up RAM timings, that's a real good way to hose an OS. Not to mention you'll see very minimal gains if at all.

If it's bench rig, go for it.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> If this is a 24/7 type system, I'd be real careful tightening up RAM timings, that's a real good way to hose an OS. Not to mention you'll see very minimal gains if at all.
> 
> If it's bench rig, go for it.


That pretty much sums up what I think. If you have an extra OS for clocking, do it, find it hardcore stable, then go with that clock.

as to BCLK needing less voltage...maybe. I am sure some chips are this way, since I have one that is.. but not all. Maybe the lower multi is just more stable. I like 4.5 GHz @ 125 since it's non-turbo, and perhaps turbo complicates things. I can't run my RIVBE as a 24/7 rig; just gaming - so the minor power savings offered means nothing.


----------



## Gunslinger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> as to BCLK needing less voltage...maybe. I am sure some chips are this way, since I have one that is.. but not all. Maybe the lower multi is just more stable. I like 4.5 GHz @ 125 since it's non-turbo, and perhaps turbo complicates things. I can't run my RIVBE as a 24/7 rig; just gaming - so the minor power savings offered means nothing.


I've also seen CPU's that run better on even vs. odd multi's and vice versa.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> If this is a 24/7 type system, I'd be real careful tightening up RAM timings, that's a real good way to hose an OS. Not to mention you'll see very minimal gains if at all.
> 
> If it's bench rig, go for it.


or stick a CD of memtestX86 and boot from it to test the RAM timing change without going into Windoze.


----------



## Gunslinger.

Does the newest version display RAM frequencies and timings correctly?

The last time I went this route the numbers were way off vs. what was set in the bios. Not that that means the RAM wasn't being stressed or anything, just more of an annoyance then anything.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> Does the newest version display RAM frequencies and timings correctly?
> 
> The last time I went this route the numbers were way off vs. what was set in the bios. Not that that means the RAM wasn't being stressed or anything, just more of an annoyance then anything.


Nah, still doesn't work, and it still doesn't test properly unless you run it for a week or so. Even the first pass is a shortened version, 2nd pass takes twice as long.

However, bandwidth numbers are accurate enough that you can look at overall performance from set to set to find IMC limits pretty easily.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> VCC is bit low for that speed (if LLC is at regular). 1.180 V is more likely to be perfectly stable. If IBT would crash at that voltage as well, it might be just a quirk of that particular CPU.


Not sure how much higher it needs to be, I read on some other forum that it needed to be around 0.5 less than vtt, thats the reason its at that. I don't mind if ibt fails as I am not using it for that, gaming wise it has not failed once, never crashes, totally stable under anything else besides that. I just wanted to make sure my voltages are not dangerous and in no way can harm my cpu or any other component of my pc. Its a 3970x and under load never goes over 65c with a custom loop.


----------



## bastian

New BIOS 0602 out.


----------



## Ajay57

Whats in the remarks section and is there any stability for IB-E???

AJ.


----------



## bastian

As usual vague, stability improvements.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> Not sure how much higher it needs to be, I read on some other forum that it needed to be around 0.5 less than vtt, thats the reason its at that. I don't mind if ibt fails as I am not using it for that, gaming wise it has not failed once, never crashes, totally stable under anything else besides that. I just wanted to make sure my voltages are not dangerous and in no way can harm my cpu or any other component of my pc. Its a 3970x and under load never goes over 65c with a custom loop.


VCC is the main voltage, it can be under 1.300 V.
VCCSA is that dangerous voltage that should be kept low, it's mainly required for RAM. (and should be close to VTT 1, VTT 2nd is supposed to be decoupled from the rest of CPU package and have 0 effects on overclocking, at least according to guide for RIVE)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> As usual vague, stability improvements.


The most important question is: Is it different from BETA version that everyone is using?


----------



## skupples

@[email protected] Any changes in the released 0602 from the beta?


----------



## SDMODNoob

Anyone else currently trying to get an advanced RMA? Have been stuck at stock check for a month now. Called them 3 times, escalated each time with a "We will call you to update you on stock" and have received nothing. This time they sent me to an escalated call # (18007468761) which is asking for a pass code to talk to them which I did not received? What is going on... ASUS is sending me in circles!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @[email protected] Any changes in the released 0602 from the beta?


For the meantime you could always do a file size comparison, I'll update to it when I get home if I have time. I have my settings backed up now.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Anyone else currently trying to get an advanced RMA? Have been stuck at stock check for a month now. Called them 3 times, escalated each time with a "We will call you to update you on stock" and have received nothing. This time they sent me to an escalated call # (18007468761) which is asking for a pass code to talk to them which I did not received? What is going on... ASUS is sending me in circles!


You have to understand this is a very high demand board.

BTW what is wrong with the board?

If you want you can message me your case number and I'll make sure P&P is being followed correctly.

Quite frankly 3 BE have been escalated to me for multi-return testing and not a one had any issues.

Well I take that back, 1 board had minor pin damage.


----------



## Zimzoid

Just noticed bios 0602 is listed on the Asus site now wonder if its worth the update? My system is working perfectly at the moment...


----------



## Gunslinger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Just noticed bios 0602 is listed on the Asus site now wonder if its worth the update? My system is working perfectly at the moment...


Then there is really no reason to update at this point.


----------



## bastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Just noticed bios 0602 is listed on the Asus site now wonder if its worth the update? My system is working perfectly at the moment...


You clearly missed my earlier post









Anyway, to compare. BIOS 0601 beta is dated 02/20/2014. BIOS 0602 is dated 02/26/2014, so its possible they did some more tweaks from the beta.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> Then there is really no reason to update at this point.


I guess not:thumb:


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You have to understand this is a very high demand board.
> 
> BTW what is wrong with the board?
> 
> If you want you can message me your case number and I'll make sure P&P is being followed correctly.
> 
> Quite frankly 3 BE have been escalated to me for multi-return testing and not a one had any issues.
> 
> Well I take that back, 1 board had minor pin damage.


Sad to say, but this doesn't surprise me one bit. Seems allot of novice enthusiasts selected this as their first E-series board, and expected it to be as easy as a 3570k.

I believe the one Raja shared with us was 0602.


----------



## bastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sad to say, but this doesn't surprise me one bit. Seems allot of novice enthusiasts selected this as their first E-series board, and expected it to be as easy as a 3570k.
> 
> I believe the one Raja shared with us was 0602.


No, it was 0601.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sad to say, but this doesn't surprise me one bit. Seems allot of novice enthusiasts selected this as their first E-series board, and expected it to be as easy as a 3570k.
> 
> I believe the one Raja shared with us was 0602.


Yep, I'm one of those x79 noobs. But learned a few things here and there, thanks to forums like these.


----------



## skupples

It was my first E-series board as well, but I knew the issues were not on a hardware level.


----------



## szeged

cant get my 4930k to 7ghz on air, better RMA this board, its obviously the problem.


----------



## skupples

i mean... 3 months backup on RMA? That seems obscene.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Hope he can work something out for me, mine is just an audio problem with the 3.5mm jacks not functioning in the rear jacks as well as the front i/o connections. Paid so much for a board, don't want anything broken you know even though it turns on and works.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> cant get my 4930k to 7ghz on air, better RMA this board, its obviously the problem.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It was my first E-series board as well, but I knew the issues were not on a hardware level.


Yep, the issues I was having were all user error if you want to call it that, but I could see people with the same issues blame it on a bad board.

@szeged Lmao, good one about not getting 7ghz on air. Some folks go through 3 - 4 boards and keep having the same issue. Nothing in their mind tells them maybe it's not the board, but your poor overclocking skills


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Talking about issues something just blew up in my rig. Burning smell is coming from the lower card.

Was running everything stock :-(


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Talking about issues something just blew up in my rig. Burning smell is coming from the lower card.


RMA the board, ask them for explanation, and carefully check traces on back and capacitors in front.

Actually when I touched botom of my board, I smelled burning stuff on my fingers, I thought it was just a traces of dust warmed up by VRM. But last time I looked, nothing smelled funny, thus it might be just a bit of dust.

You might complain, we poor stock users, we are completely hosed by these LN2 users.

Honestly, I'm curious what could do that exactly. (Also I still didn't found exact reason for these RARE CPU fan error messages.)


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> RMA the board, ask them for explanation, and carefully check traces on back and capacitors in front.
> 
> Actually when I touched botom of my board, I smelled burning stuff on my fingers, I thought it was just a traces of dust warmed up by VRM. But last time I looked, nothing smelled funny, thus it might be just a bit of dust.
> 
> You might complain, we poor stock users, we are completely hosed by these LN2 users.
> 
> Honestly, I'm curious what could do that exactly. (Also I still didn't found exact reason for these RARE CPU fan error messages.)


I had some cpu fan error messages. it was just my sp120 was running lower than the warning rpm. It only shows up when I do "optimized defaults" then I just go into monitor and set the alarm to ignore.
What was yours doing?


----------



## szeged

Wow just as we're talking about it too lol. That sucks







took out the ek block too!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Titan died on my Black too, but I was doing 1.45v

Sorry to hear another Titan bit the dust.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I have 4820K. Can you check if your card is runing at PCI-E 3.0 standart? Look in NVidia inspector when card is at load.




Is what you want to know on here? It shows PCI-E 3.0x16.


----------



## oelkanne

I´m wondering .... a RAID config with Windows is a good Idea? kind a new to RAID and setting thigs up to run the System in RAID


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 
> 
> Is what you want to know on here? It shows PCI-E 3.0x16.


Can you plug this card into the second 16x PCI-E 3.0 slot and test again? (I use the third slot from above because there would be too little space between heatsink and the card.)


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Can you plug this card into the second 16x PCI-E 3.0 slot and test again? (I use the third slot from above because there would be too little space between heatsink and the card.)


Sure ill try to get that to you sometime this weekend. Heatsink? You talkin cpu heatsink?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> One of my Titans died :-( not sure what happened. Was at stock voltage and clock speeds. Opened Skype, Origin and Afterburner, card wasn't even under load. And then kaboom! Destruction struck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I remember SlinkyPC saying the motherboard kept frying his card, I wonder if the same spot on his cards were burned. If so this board has got to go


\

He reported no physical damage when he went on about his titan dying. He also kept posting benchmarks with the "dead titan" which means it wasn't fried.


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> \
> 
> He reported no physical damage when he went on about his titan dying. He also kept posting benchmarks with the "dead titan" which means it wasn't fried.


LMAO!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> One of my Titans died :-( not sure what happened. Was at stock voltage and clock speeds. Opened Skype, Origin and Afterburner, card wasn't even under load. And then kaboom! Destruction struck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I remember SlinkyPC saying the motherboard kept frying his card, I wonder if the same spot on his cards were burned. If so this board has got to go


Looks like yyour block leaked, to me. Can see where the coolant was on the bottom of the block..coolant seeped out the edge hole.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @[email protected] Any changes in the released 0602 from the beta?


I believe it;s the same, I flashed beta bios and just tried official 0602. Update process only took a few second. So I guess Bios chip is not really updated because system recognize the new bios to be flashed is identical the current one.


----------



## tvelander

Now iam close to 100 % done, done last night with OS now time for OVERCLOCKING


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> You have to understand this is a very high demand board.
> 
> BTW what is wrong with the board?
> 
> If you want you can message me your case number and I'll make sure P&P is being followed correctly.
> 
> Quite frankly 3 BE have been escalated to me for multi-return testing and not a one had any issues.
> 
> *Well I take that back, 1 board had minor pin damage.*


This is why I'm debating on sending mine in for RMA as I want the full effect of 16x8x16 since I"m using 1440p surround, at this point I"m sure I'm missing at least a 10-15% gain. Except after hearing his issue about waiting months, I've no clue as what to do.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Looks like yyour block leaked, to me. Can see where the coolant was on the bottom of the block..coolant seeped out the edge hole.


I would also like to know if that was due to a leak or if the coolant left over was after he took the block apart.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This is why I'm debating on sending mine in for RMA as I want the full effect of 16x8x16 since I"m using 1440p surround, at this point I"m sure I'm missing at least a 10-15% gain. Except after hearing his issue about waiting months, I've no clue as what to do.


Depending on the amount of damage the fee could be waived.

If anyone here located in the U.S then send me your case/RMA and I'll see what can be done.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Anyone else currently trying to get an advanced RMA? Have been stuck at stock check for a month now. Called them 3 times, escalated each time with a "We will call you to update you on stock" and have received nothing. This time they sent me to an escalated call # (18007468761) which is asking for a pass code to talk to them which I did not received? What is going on... ASUS is sending me in circles!


If you want to send it in I will get you an overnight label sent out.

I the board fails in any aspect I will get it swapped.

Please provide images of the socket so we can verify no damage prior to shipping.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Depending on the amount of damage the fee could be waived.
> 
> If anyone here located in the U.S then send me your case/RMA and I'll see what can be done.


What is the turnaround like as i still require my pc for work.

.pics wont load from mobile.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Looks like yyour block leaked, to me. Can see where the coolant was on the bottom of the block..coolant seeped out the edge hole.


Yes, the block leaked. Just to be clear, the board did not kill my Titan, the EK block did.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What is the turnaround like as i still require my pc for work.
> 
> .pics wont load from mobile.


I see several issues. what specifically are you worried about?

BTW lets take this to PM.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Does any one know the thermal pad size for the stock vrm heatsink? Can I use thermal paste on the chipset heatsink? or do i need that thermal glue type of thing?


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Yes, the block leaked. Just to be clear, the board did not kill my Titan, the EK block did.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Does any one know the thermal pad size for the stock vrm heatsink? Can I use thermal paste on the chipset heatsink? or do i need that thermal glue type of thing?


Sorry to hear about the block, glad to hear its not the board killing gpu's.
Says on this site that its 0.5 mm
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20287/thr-210/EK_Water_Block_EK-FC_Titan_XXL_Replacement_Thermal_Pad_Set.html?tl=g57c609&id=D7j4qMMo


----------



## Jpmboy

Raja - if you're around.... is it okay to run tri-sli using slots 1,3 and 4? Would this run at 16x,16x,8x? I ask because I'm having some weird issues with 3 kingpins on this mobo. The diagnostic LEDs will flicker - on all three cards - when OC'd and loaded. It's probably not a PSU issue since it will happen whether I use 2 or 3 PSUs to run the cards + mobo. A PCPower & Cooling 1200 for the mobo/4960X, one card and one pump, another PCP1200 for 2 cards and another pump.. or add a 3rd PSU (a st1500) and run each card on it's own PSU. Maybe slot 2 is borked? Or the mobo can't supply enough juice to the PCIE lanes? or...?


----------



## [email protected]

Check the manual for recommended configs. You can also use UEFI to check what the lane allocation is (don't have them running around in my head) You should be using the molex connector to supplement PCIe power with three cards. The board's power plane is fine to supply power to multi-GPU setups. What you are fighting is the limits of the ATX connector to supply the current without suffering from thermal breakdown. That's why the molex connector is there to share the current demands.

Anything outside that might be some kind of PCIe gen 3.0 or PCIe training issues due to OC etc.

-Raja


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Check the manual for recommended configs. You can also use UEFI to check what the lane allocation is (don't have them running around in my head) You should be using the molex connector to supplement PCIe power with three cards. The board's power plane is fine to supply power to multi-GPU setups. What you are fighting is the limits of the ATX connector to supply the current without suffering from thermal breakdown. That's why the molex connector is there to share the current demands.
> 
> Anything outside that might be some kind of PCIe gen 3.0 or PCIe training issues due to OC etc.
> 
> -Raja


Hi guys who give me a help? Should I overclokkare but are not very practical for UEFI BIOS, this and 'my first UEFI motherboard ... I have a 4930K and 32GB ram corsaair platinum 8x4 2133 CL 9-11-11-31 - 1.65volt. I would like two quiet settings, and a stronger one .. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Check the manual for recommended configs. You can also use UEFI to check what the lane allocation is (don't have them running around in my head) You should be using the molex connector to supplement PCIe power with three cards. The board's power plane is fine to supply power to multi-GPU setups. What you are fighting is the limits of the ATX connector to supply the current without suffering from thermal breakdown. That's why the molex connector is there to share the current demands.
> 
> Anything outside that *might be some kind of PCIe gen 3.0 or PCIe training issues due to OC* etc.
> 
> -Raja


Thanks! I do have the 4 pin molex connected and the manual recommends 1,2,3 (referring to 3.0 lanes). The lane config should be the same at 16, 16, 8 for 1,2 4 as far as i can tell (vs 16,8,16). Flickering happens only when really pushing the cards (especially @ 4K). If i figure this out I'll post my findings... btw, this does not occur when using (any two) two cards in sli, only when running 3. Nonetheless, swept first place in 2 and 3 card 3DMK11 P and X HOF !









oh i happened to notice that in the manual that shipped with the board, page 1-23, third bullet in the figure on top of the page, should read 4-pin molex and not 6-pin PCIE

"might be some kind of PCIe gen 3.0 or PCIe training issues due to OC"







Huh?


----------



## [email protected]

Try a single PSU on its own. Other than that no idea.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Try a single PSU on its own. Other than that no idea.


ah - if only there was one powerful enough. Three OCd 780Ti Kingpins will shut down any single PSU... Actually, 2 will bring all but a few to OCP. (the PCP&C T12W can hold out the longest).
Could the 3V (and maybe 5V) rails/planes be the weak link.
What is PCIE "training"?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> ah - if only there was one powerful enough. Three OCd 780Ti Kingpins will shut down any single PSU... Actually, 2 will bring all but a few to OCP. (the PCP&C T12W can hold out the longest).
> Could the 3V (and maybe 5V) rails/planes be the weak link.
> What is PCIE "training"?


1) Some PSUs don't like being used this way. Ground potential between units will be different (can cause havoc with current and safety sensing). There are some units out there that will even kill GPUs if they are run in tandem with other PSUs. We killed a Titan like this at an OC event.

2) There are no issues with the board power planes. We've had 4 cards under LN2 clocked high and CPUs running over 6GHz without problems.

3) PCIe training occurs at POST to map devices and de-skew any timing variance on signal lines. Initially I thought you were referring to POST issues - but re-read your post and realized you have issues under load. Almost certainly sounds like a PSU issue to me.

You probably need to debug number one properly. Not much I can suggest as it seems you have confined yourself to building or running a system that needs multiple PSUs - it's just not a good thing to do with some PSU combos (it's not good period for 24/7 systems really). Once you can debug that part you can start looking at if it's a board level fault (won't be power plane related).


----------



## Ajay57

Raja, Please can you tell me what Voltages you would input into the INITIAL and EVENTUAL PLL TERMINATION VOLTAGE SECTION?? The guy's on here say 1.45v as a common guide to use and could you give me your suggestions!!

Also would you leave the CPU PLL TERMINATION on AUTO???



Respectfully,

AJ.

P.S. Thanks.


----------



## [email protected]

If you're not running the CPU cold or running very high memory speeds then leave these settings alone (no need to adjust for the sake of it)


----------



## Ajay57

OK thanks for the Advice, but i have my memory OC to 2400Mhz and would like to go higher and i do a lot of Benchmarks for scores on the HWbot!!

That is the main reason why i asked you this question, to see if there would be any Advantage in using it in the Bios!

Raja i am really greatful for the reply and helping me to answer my question here.

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> 1) Some PSUs don't like being used this way. Ground potential between units will be different (can cause havoc with current and safety sensing). There are some units out there that will even kill GPUs if they are run in tandem with other PSUs. We killed a Titan like this at an OC event.
> 
> 2) There are no issues with the board power planes. We've had 4 cards under LN2 clocked high and CPUs running over 6GHz without problems.
> 
> 3) PCIe training occurs at POST to map devices and de-skew any timing variance on signal lines. Initially I thought you were referring to POST issues - but re-read your post and realized you have issues under load. Almost certainly sounds like a PSU issue to me.
> 
> You probably need to debug number one properly. Not much I can suggest as it seems you have confined yourself to building or running a system that needs multiple PSUs - it's just not a good thing to do with some PSU combos (it's not good period for 24/7 systems really). Once you can debug that part you can start looking at if it's a board level fault (won't be power plane related).


Thanks for the insights. And sorry to pester you with questions. It is curious that if the problem is related to your first point, ground potential, it only shows up with 3 cards and not 2 on multiple PSUs. So to OC the 4 cards... how many PSUs were you running during that OC session? Two identical units? (I don't cryo-cool any more)

Would you suspect the, or any multiple PSU issue can minimized if i were to use 2 identical PSUs, which share a dedicated circuit and the same ground? I think this is a pretty important question since there are a bunch of folks here using multiple PSUs for their surround gaming rigs.

Frustrating since I did not experienced this problem with my p9x79-E WS, but it was loaded with watercooled titans (softmods only), not these WCd kingpins. (that was a very good mobo! sold it to a buddy when the R4BE came out







)

thanks for the pointers.


----------



## [email protected]

You can try changing it if the board will not POST with high memory speeds to something under 1.8V

How much effect this has will vary from CPU to CPU, and on normal cooling it may not make much difference (may even make things worse).


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Thanks for the insights. And sorry to pester you with questions. It is curious that if the problem is related to your first point, ground potential, it only shows up with 3 cards and not 2 on multiple PSUs. So to OC the 4 cards... how many PSUs were you running during that OC session? Two identical units? (I don't cryo-cool any more)
> 
> Would you suspect the, or any multiple PSU issue can minimized if i were to use 2 identical PSUs, which share a dedicated circuit and the same ground? I think this is a pretty important question since there are a bunch of folks here using multiple PSUs for their surround gaming rigs.
> 
> Frustrating since I did not experienced this problem with my p9x79-E WS, but it was loaded with watercooled titans (softmods only), not these WCd kingpins. (that was a very good mobo! sold it to a buddy when the R4BE came out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> thanks for the pointers.


We used four - and had to return some newer ones to the vendors as they would kill cards when run this way.

The P9X79-E WS does not have PCIe LEDs so I doubt you would have known what was occurring on that board...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> We used four - and had to return some newer ones to the vendors as they would kill cards when run this way.
> 
> The P9X79-E WS does not have PCIe LEDs so I doubt you would have known what was occurring on that board...


Yeah, sorry i wasn't clear about that... - the LEDs are on the graphics cards. Your point about ground potentials may be the cause. Have to find out how to deal with that. Without a doubt, multiple PSUs rigs are very common.


----------



## massimo40mq

guys someone help me?
Should I overclokkare my 4930K with ram corsair dominator 8x4 gb 2133 32 cl 1.65volt
9-11-11-31, I'm not an expert on UEFI BIOS, I would need a detailed guide, with two settings, one quiet and one overclok highest .. Thank you.


----------



## cadaveca

Nice job on the new BIOS. This wasn't possible before as easily @ 1.65V; board is now scaling like I needed.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> guys someone help me?
> Should I overclokkare my 4930K with ram corsair dominator 8x4 gb 2133 32 cl 1.65volt
> 9-11-11-31, I'm not an expert on UEFI BIOS, I would need a detailed guide, with two settings, one quiet and one overclok highest .. Thank you.


Enable XMP(hope you do not have two kits), then set CPU voltage according to cooling, and adjust CPU multi. CPUs are pretty varied, you must test yourself.


----------



## Ajay57

Hey Cadaveca,

Would you think i would gain some more with the new Bios??? I see your running a 4960X the same as me my friend!!

Here is my recent test results so far with my RAM OC!





Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## cadaveca

You're write performance is low, I think. Should be able to get read/write similar, with copy just a bit lower. Can't say exactly what you need to do without doing a lot of work.



Finally got my H80i back from RMA, crazy how poopy the other unit really was compared to this one, saw a drop of 20C under Prime95







.


----------



## Ajay57

Yeah i can see that but, what ever i try to change its nearly the same results, that's why i was asking you about the new Bios, and whether it has made those changes you posted!!!

If so i would consider giving it a try and up grading from the 0507 i am using now!

L1,L2,L3 Are all about the same as yours so not to far away there!

Thanks,

AJ.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Yeah i can see that but, what ever i try to change its nearly the same results, that's why i was asking you about the new Bios, and whether it has made those changes you posted!!!
> 
> If so i would consider giving it a try and up grading from the 0507 i am using now!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> AJ.


Nah, bandwidth was OK before, but clock scaling was not. I cannot tell you exactly what's different, but it works for my config when others did not. Maybe the new board helped too.









No, really, that's just me trolling the ASUS guys here a bit. New board, but I get ~60 MHz more out of these sticks with my particular settings @ 1.65 V and performance is good enough, compared to earlier BIOS.

I'm using 1.3 V on CPU, VTT @ 1.05 V, VCCSA @ 1.0V, DRAM @ 1.65V(everything else set to stock manually), primary and secondary timings set manually without enabling XMP.

Before I complained the P9X79 was better, now both are equal to me with respect to 24/7 clocking, but RIVBE has better features and efficiency.


----------



## Ajay57

Well its great to have you back on board again!!

Thanks and yeah i might give the new bios ago.

The set up looks really sweet!

AJ.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You're write performance is low, I think. Should be able to get read/write similar, with copy just a bit lower. Can't say exactly what you need to do without doing a lot of work.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got my H80i back from RMA, crazy how poopy the other unit really was compared to this one, saw a drop of 20C under Prime95
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It that a silver air 540? I got my rig in the black one. Man I need to get my old gtx 770 dcu2 sold or my old computer sold so I can pick up my 2nd gtx 780. Nice Rig! I like it!


----------



## [email protected]

No memory rule changes in the new UEFI - so any gains are down to C's new board. The retail board clock DRAM better than the ES (we made some DRAM trace refinements between ES boards and retail). 0602 is recommended simply because it patches current sensing for the VRM.

-Raja


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> It that a silver air 540? I got my rig in the black one. Man I need to get my old gtx 770 dcu2 sold or my old computer sold so I can pick up my 2nd gtx 790. Nice Rig! I like it!


Do you already have on 790?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Do you already have on 790?


780 it was a typo sorry!!!!! I wish!!!!!


----------



## friskiest

Hello everyone









Just booted my Black + 4930k and dual titans on the bench and everything seems to be in order at stock settings.

However, I tried a quick and dirty 4.5GHz @ 1.35 OC w/ memory at xmp & LLC high - loaded up IBT to test and boom, instant shutdown.

There was no BSOD, just as if the plug was pulled.

Googled around a bit and read that another guy experienced something like that with his board until he updated his bios.

My board came shipped with 0403 - is this a problematic bios?

Anyone experienced something like it?

I'll get started on flashing 0602, unless someone suggests otherwise?

Appreciate any input


----------



## [email protected]

Update to 0602.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just booted my Black + 4930k and dual titans on the bench and everything seems to be in order at stock settings.
> 
> However, I tried a quick and dirty 4.5GHz @ 1.35 OC w/ memory at xmp & LLC high - loaded up IBT to test and boom, instant shutdown.
> 
> There was no BSOD, just as if the plug was pulled.
> 
> Googled around a bit and read that another guy experienced something like that with his board until he updated his bios.
> 
> My board came shipped with 0403 - is this a problematic bios?
> 
> Anyone experienced something like it?
> 
> I'll get started on flashing 0602, unless someone suggests otherwise?
> 
> Appreciate any input


set current capability to 180%


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Update to 0602.


Will do, thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> set current capability to 180%


Isn't that a little extreme for a modest 4.5 ?
I'll give it a shot though, after i update.

Thanks guys.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Update to 0602.
> 
> 
> 
> Will do, thanks!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> set current capability to 180%
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Isn't that a little extreme for a modest 4.5 ?
> I'll give it a shot though, after i update.
> 
> Thanks guys.
Click to expand...

current is pulled not pushed, meaning your cpu will only take as much as it needs, it will not hurt it


----------



## [email protected]

If you update to 0602 you should not need to change current capability - that's what this build was patched for.


----------



## [email protected]

As said above 0602 patches current sensing so high levels of OCP do not need to be set.


----------



## Ajay57

So what would your suggestion for very high Overclocks @ 4.7 or 4.8 !! As of the moment i run my bios setting @ 180% for these OC's!

Bearing in mind the 2 above are for competing on the HWbot with high demanding Benchmarks.

At 4.2 i run mine @ 140% as this is my everyday setting!

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## friskiest

Updating to 0602 worked for me.

Thanks for the help Raja.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> So what would your suggestion for very high Overclocks @ 4.7 or 4.8 !! As of the moment i run my bios setting @ 180% for these OC's!
> 
> Bearing in mind the 2 above are for competing on the HWbot with high demanding Benchmarks.
> 
> At 4.2 i run mine @ 140% as this is my everyday setting!
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


Before I answer, may I ask why you feel it needs to be adjusted at all? My response will be based on what your understanding of the OCP setting is.


----------



## Jpmboy

I run this [email protected] with 1.376V (under load) via offset, idles @ 0.864V. Is leaving cpu current on Auto "okay" on 0602 (flashed a couple of days ago). Is there a risk with it set @ auto?


----------



## [email protected]

No risk at all.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> No risk at all.


OCP setting is marked with red color when it is larger than 140%. I guess red means dangerous or harmful to CPU?


----------



## [email protected]

I think some people are confused about what OCP is.

Think of OCP like a re-settable fuse. If you use a bigger fuse it will simply pass more current before it trips. Under normal operation, the current is not forced into the CPU; the CPU draws what it needs. For instance, if OCP is set to a value that shuts off at 120amps, but the CPU needs 140 amps, the VRM will shutdown as soon as the current draw exceeds 120 amps for more than a few micro-seconds. The higher you set the OCP the more current the VRM can supply the CPU _if_ the CPU needs it.

So why have OCP at all? OCP is in place to prevent the VRM from supplying all of its current in a fault event. Just as fuses break a circuit. There are instances where one could set a threshold to prevent "more" damage. It won't stop the CPU from dying if something goes short in the die, but it may stop the board traces or related VRM components from burning up due to an open load.

Red at 140% is actually default on Auto BTW.

-Raja


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I think some people are confused about what OCP is.
> 
> Think of OCP like a re-settable fuse. If you use a bigger fuse it will simply pass more current before it trips. Under normal operation, the current is not forced into the CPU; the CPU draws what it needs. For instance, if OCP is set to a value that shuts off at 120amps, but the CPU needs 140 amps, the VRM will shutdown as soon as the current draw exceeds 120 amps for more than a few micro-seconds. The higher you set the OCP the more current the VRM can supply the CPU _if_ the CPU needs it.
> 
> So why have OCP at all? OCP is in place to prevent the VRM from supplying all of its current in a fault event. Just as fuses break a circuit. There are instances where one could set a threshold to prevent "more" damage. It won't stop the CPU from dying if something goes short in the die, but it may stop the board traces or related VRM components from burning up due to an open load.
> 
> Red at 140% is actually default on Auto BTW.
> 
> -Raja


We have reason to feel confused as there is no detailed explanation or definition for each and every settings in BIOS or in manual.
Although there are some strings to describe these settings, but they are totally useless. I recall these strings were already improved several times in recent new R4E BIOS build, but still they are completely useless.
This is how OCP is described in manual:
this item provides wider total power range for overclocking. A higher value brings a wider total power range and extends the overclocking frequency range simultaneously.

I don't find too much information regarding how to change the OCP setting for my OC.

There is plenty room left in that help string area, could you try to explain each setting in more detail for future improvement. Thanks a lot.


----------



## tistou77

To me (bios 0602)











CPU Multi is x36 but Aida64 show 34...


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> To me (bios 0602)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU Multi is x36 but Aida64 show 34...


nice bandwidth:thumb:


----------



## Mappi75

Hello - back again!









For months ago i bought the Black, but with my *Kingston HyperX DIMM XMP Kit 64GB, DDR3-1600, CL9 (KHX16C9K8/64X)* doesn't work with this Board,
i tested also 2 different G.Skill Kit's DDR3-1600 CL9 & CL10 (each 32gb).
They doesn't work too...

So my questions:

I had every time reboots with these kits of memory

was that a memory problem ?

or was it a Black problem- was my board faulty ?

I maybe want to order the Black again, maybe with memory whitch is in the QVL list like this kit:

*G.Skill RipJawsZ DIMM Kit 64GB, DDR3-2400, CL10-12-12-31 (F3-19200CL10Q2-64GBZHD)*

Does someone run 64GB with this board !?

Now I own a 4960X but in the past i already own this 64GB G.Skill Kit - but i never got the DDR3-2400 CL10 stable (this was on the normal REIV with a 3960X CPU).

Thank you very much!


----------



## [email protected]

At least you got an explanation above I suppose. That string is not far off what you guys need to know about OCP. If one really has a keen interest in electronics - it would be a good idea to take a course. The fundamentals is all one needs for most stuff - to get by.


----------



## axiumone

Looks like I might have picked up a good chip to go along with this board.

This is with + .010 offset, 1.125 vtt and vccsa, high llc.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I think some people are confused about what OCP is.
> 
> Think of OCP like a re-settable fuse. If you use a bigger fuse it will simply pass more current before it trips. Under normal operation, the current is not forced into the CPU; the CPU draws what it needs. For instance, if OCP is set to a value that shuts off at 120amps, but the CPU needs 140 amps, the VRM will shutdown as soon as the current draw exceeds 120 amps for more than a few micro-seconds. The higher you set the OCP the more current the VRM can supply the CPU _if_ the CPU needs it.
> 
> So why have OCP at all? OCP is in place to prevent the VRM from supplying all of its current in a fault event. Just as fuses break a circuit. There are instances where one could set a threshold to prevent "more" damage. It won't stop the CPU from dying if something goes short in the die, but it may stop the board traces or related VRM components from burning up due to an open load.
> 
> Red at 140% is actually default on Auto BTW.
> 
> -Raja


I recall that OCP setting is ONLY marked with red when it's set to 140% in previous R4BE and R4E build.
However, this setting is now red for all values that exceed 140%. What does this mean? Raja, I think you didn't explain why they are marked with red in your last reply. My interpretation is that ASUS is emphasizing that this setting is potentially dangerous when it exceeds 140% and alerting people to pay attention to it.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> At least you got an explanation above I suppose. That string is not far off what you guys need to know about OCP. If one really has a keen interest in electronics - it would be a good idea to take a course. The fundamentals is all one needs for most stuff - to get by.


That is just an example. If you look at help strings in DRAM setting, you will find that they're totally useless.wink.gif
One more quick question for you, Raja, why I can't set T_CCD to 0 for 2666CL10-12-12-26-1T. It causes instantly shut-down or BSOD when I run P95 V28.3 customized test burning 90% RAM. Kit is Corsair quad channel kit with Sammy IC. I tried increase DRAM, VTT, VCCSA, Vcore volt, set VCCSA LLC to different values. Still instant BSOD. Also, why the changes in VTTDDR volt setting is ignored. Manually set to 0.85 in BIOS but it's actually 0.75 when check in Windows using Turbo Vcore.
Does T_CCD have great impact to overall performance, what I can see from AIDA64 bandwidth tests, it seems impact is quite big.


----------



## [email protected]

The red levels are now simply higher than you should need for 24/7 OC as the current sensing has been shifted.. AS for the "danger", I think that's quite clear in the post I wrote about OCP above.

DRAM - that subject is so complex there is no way to break it down easily. EE level stuff a lot of it .


----------



## asfgbdnf

*edit*


----------



## [email protected]

Ideally one should leave tCCD at 0 or 4 (both the same thing). Back to back reads (and writes) are where sustained DRAM read and write performance comes from. After a row is latched all consecutive data can be taken from the row by spacing each DRAM burst at 4 clock intervals. Therefore if you set 5, after each burst, there will be a 1 clock wait before the next 4 clock burst. If you set 6 then there will be a 2 clock wait between each burst - and so on the higher you go.

On these architectures data is not fragmented like it used to be on platforms several years ago (thats why the primary timings make less difference to performance now). Hence, keeping tCCD at it's minimum spacing is a good idea.

If one is just chasing the raw bandwidth for validation, that is another matter.


----------



## skupples

Did we ever find out if there is a difference between 0601 & 0602?


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Ideally one should leave tCCD at 0 or 4 (both the same thing). Back to back reads (and writes) are where sustained DRAM read and write performance comes from. After a row is latched all consecutive data can be taken from the row by spacing each DRAM burst at 4 clock intervals. Therefore if you set 5, after each burst, there will be a 1 clock wait before the next 4 clock burst. If you set 6 then there will be a 2 clock wait between each burst - and so on the higher you go.
> 
> On these architectures data is not fragmented like it used to be on platforms several years ago (thats why the primary timings make less difference to performance now). Hence, keeping tCCD at it's minimum spacing is a good idea.
> 
> If one is just chasing the raw bandwidth for validation, that is another matter.


Please clarify one thing, you said 'leave tCCD at 0 or 4 (both the same thing)'. I guess, here '0' is the value we use for settings in BIOS and '4' is measure of the actual DRAM clocks, in other words, set tccd to 0 means spacing each DRAM burst at 4 clock intervals. So actually the waiting time between each burst is the value we use in BIOS setting plus 4 clocks.
If set tccd to 4, the waiting time is 8 clocks in practice, am I right?
Also, could you please explain the VTTDDR problem?


----------



## [email protected]

1) In the past 0 disabled the offset logic (minimum spacing) while 2&3 revert to 4 internally. Chances are it's still the same unless Intel decided to change things, you can test this easily enough by setting 0 then 4 and seeing if there is any change. In fact most of the third timings are bound by a 4 clock minimum spacing as well internally. it just depends if Intel decide to apply offsets to the minimum spacing or leave the "impossible" register bits open and revert them (a few of the third timings are offsets of auto sensed values I think).

DRAM timing law is what it is though - 4 clocks is the burst length and that spacing needs to be observed at the chipset level.

2) Might be a bug with TurboV. On this platform VTTDDR is probably best left at 50% of VDD (VDIMM) which is what Auto is.

-Raja


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Did we ever find out if there is a difference between 0601 & 0602?


0601 was the 125 strap patch for CPU ratios over 36 only. 0602 = 0601 + current sensing patch. That's all.


----------



## skupples

Thx Raja.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> 2) Might be a bug with TurboV. On this platform VTTDDR is probably best left at 50% of VDD (VDIMM) which is what Auto is.
> 
> -Raja


Thanks for your explanation. This problem exists back to R4E and it seems it's still unfixed in R4BE.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> 0601 was the 125 strap patch for CPU ratios over 36 only. 0602 = 0601 + current sensing patch. That's all.


What is the problem under 125 strap ? I didn't notice any problem.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> What is the problem under 125 strap ? I didn't notice any problem.


some sandy-bridge CPUs were not working with strap 125. Issue has been resolved in the 0601, i can attest to the fix working.


----------



## szeged

well this thread blew up after raja started answering questions lol









Glad to have more reps on here helping us out, Thanks Raja!


----------



## Ajay57

As you can clearly see there is a lot of unanswered questions regarding this motherboard and its settings!!

Sorry Raja to ask you so many as i understand your busy with projects to do, but we all just wish to run this motherboard to its best ability.

In a relatively safe manner whether overclocking to its Max or for everyday use, as for my questions to you i was just checking my own ideas here.

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> As said above 0602 patches current sensing so high levels of OCP do not need to be set.


I don't agree. At stock, new board will still shut down @ stock, listing PSU instability as cause of shutdown on POST.

But OC, or adjust current limits, it's fine.

I see board defaults to 140% under auto, too. Perhaps it's that setting screwing with me?

Honestlyy, Raja, I want to run normal stock. OC is great with this board/BIOS, but stock is not stable at all, and it's all about VRM settings under auto rules. Manually setting to "stock" values makes it even worse.

So, what you are telling me is that my CPU is the fault here, right?

And that each user, when running into this, will have to find out what each CPU requires, correct?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> What is the problem under 125 strap ? I didn't notice any problem.


There are at least 3 different version of SB-E chips ; C0, C1, and C2. Not all versions had problems with 125 BLCK, and some chips that are a bit poopier than others had issues that were not present on other boards. This is now fixed that I can tell.

But I cannot get proper PCIe slot function still with C1 ES.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Hey guys I have a GTX 780 installed, are any of you guys running a dedicated card for physx? I have that 770 sitting around. Thinking of installing it thoughts?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I don't agree. At stock, new board will still shut down @ stock, listing PSU instability as cause of shutdown on POST.
> 
> But OC, or adjust current limits, it's fine.
> 
> I see board defaults to 140% under auto, too. Perhaps it's that setting screwing with me?
> 
> Honestlyy, Raja, I want to run normal stock. OC is great with this board/BIOS, but stock is not stable at all, and it's all about VRM settings under auto rules. Manually setting to "stock" values makes it even worse.


No problems at all on my end.

There are only two VRM settings related to OCP shutdowns, one is CPU Current Capability and the other is the Current Inrush setting. Try enabling the latter while leaving CPU Current Capability on Auto. Clear CMOS first.

Your issue actually sounds like something else though - possibly Super IO tripping due to irregular readings from PSU rails from the way you've worded things in your post above (might be Anti Surge Support tripping for some reason). This can happen erroneously if the Super IO has a fault or if something is messing up polling. In some cases the PSU rails really are outside spec. OCP shutdown does not give an error warning but Anti Surge Shutdown does. This stuff obviously has nothing to do with the OCP stuff the 0602 build was patched for.

You are the first person to report this - wonder if once again it's your "strange" CPUs that pull more current than anyone else's to blame









-Raja


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> As you can clearly see there is a lot of unanswered questions regarding this motherboard and its settings!!
> 
> Sorry Raja to ask you so many as i understand your busy with projects to do, but we all just wish to run this motherboard to its best ability.
> 
> In a relatively safe manner whether overclocking to its Max or for everyday use, as for my questions to you i was just checking my own ideas here.
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


I'd leave most things on Auto unless going for Ln2 type clocking personally. A lot of the parameters in the UEFI are designed for cold CPUs, they dont do much if anything for air clocking at all (even if one is a HWbot benching fanatic). Honestly, I've given away so much on DRAM in the various guides I've written, you guys should be teaching others at this stage.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I'd leave most things on Auto unless going for Ln2 type clocking personally. A lot of the parameters in the UEFI are designed for cold CPUs, they dont do much if anything for air clocking at all (even if one is a HWbot benching fanatic). Honestly, I've given away so much on DRAM in the various guides I've written, you guys should be teaching others at this stage.


Could you please re-post your tutorial on DRAM timing setting?.


----------



## [email protected]

Check the R4E guide in my sig for most of the info you need to learn about DRAM - read that through a few times (Google whatever term you don't understand - tho you should not need to). Most of the relationships and what timings do is in there. After reading that you can just tune your system according to what your parts are capable of and Google will throw up any deeper stuff if you need it.

Some other general links of interest about DRAM:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/3851/everything-you-always-wanted-to-know-about-sdram-memory-but-were-afraid-to-ask

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?27580-Memory-Timings-on-modern-ram.&country=&status=


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I think some people are confused about what OCP is.
> 
> Think of OCP like a re-settable fuse. If you use a bigger fuse it will simply pass more current before it trips. Under normal operation, the current is not forced into the CPU; the CPU draws what it needs. For instance, if OCP is set to a value that shuts off at 120amps, but the CPU needs 140 amps, the VRM will shutdown as soon as the current draw exceeds 120 amps for more than a few micro-seconds. The higher you set the OCP the more current the VRM can supply the CPU _if_ the CPU needs it.
> 
> So why have OCP at all? OCP is in place to prevent the VRM from supplying all of its current in a fault event. Just as fuses break a circuit. There are instances where one could set a threshold to prevent "more" damage. It won't stop the CPU from dying if something goes short in the die, but it may stop the board traces or related VRM components from burning up due to an open load.
> 
> *Red at 140% is actually default on Auto BTW.*
> 
> -Raja


140% cool. thanks - I think that's plenty for me !


----------



## yttocstfarc

Is there a preferred blue screen viewer program you guys use? since I updated to 602 bios I'm getting blue screens while playing Black Flag. That game has been rock solid since I built the computer.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> No problems at all on my end.
> 
> There are only two VRM settings related to OCP shutdowns, one is CPU Current Capability and the other is the Current Inrush setting. Try enabling the latter while leaving CPU Current Capability on Auto. Clear CMOS first.
> 
> Your issue actually sounds like something else though - possibly Super IO tripping due to irregular readings from PSU rails from the way you've worded things in your post above (might be Anti Surge Support tripping for some reason). This can happen erroneously if the Super IO has a fault or if something is messing up polling. In some cases the PSU rails really are outside spec. OCP shutdown does not give an error warning but Anti Surge Shutdown does. This stuff obviously has nothing to do with the OCP stuff the 0602 build was patched for.
> 
> You are the first person to report this - wonder if once again it's your "strange" CPUs that pull more current than anyone else's to blame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Raja


Maybe. When I OC, I don't use Turbo multis, so the current overdraw only seems to happen under turbo mode.

Thanks for the awesome answer.







I'll investigate more.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Is there a preferred blue screen viewer program you guys use? since I updated to 602 bios I'm getting blue screens while playing Black Flag. That game has been rock solid since I built the computer.


Yeah, use this:

bluescreenview_setup.zip 120k .zip file


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Yeah, use this:
> 
> bluescreenview_setup.zip 120k .zip file


Perfect! Thanks! Anything I should know about it? +Rep


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Perfect! Thanks! Anything I should know about it? +Rep


Gives me the detail of the problem in the event viewer, like a driver cause, then I just google the problem and there seems to be an answer.

Pretty much all I know about the program.


----------



## cadaveca

Full BSOD list here:

http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/hardware/hh994433(v=vs.85).aspx

Most common OC BSOD are like x124, x05E x03B, most anything else is gonna be software. Straight re-boot is likely memory-related. If you can get into OS, BSOD is gonna show up in viewer, kinda eliminates many things.


----------



## Jpmboy

when shooting a BSOD... sometimes (actually everytime) you need to look at the root cause, which will not be the first or second "culprit" in BSV. "Hal" is not causing your bsod 99.9% of the times







. Check the "sysinternals" web site for pro help.


----------



## sidekisk

Will this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233651 work on a RIVBE??


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidekisk*
> 
> Will this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233651 work on a RIVBE??


It'll work, but could be possible not to be able to push the rated 2666Mhz speeds depending on cpu and IMC of the cpu.

If that's the case, just down clock the ram to 2400, or even 2133Mhz and tighten up the timings.


----------



## sidekisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> It'll work, but could be possible not to be able to push the rated 2666Mhz speeds depending on cpu and IMC of the cpu.
> 
> If that's the case, just down clock the ram to 2400, or even 2133Mhz and tighten up the timings.


I'm using a 4960X CPU will it work with that or should I stick with 2400?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidekisk*
> 
> I'm using a 4960X CPU will it work with that or should I stick with 2400?


There is a high chance that your cpu could push the 2400Mhz speeds with 32gb of ram.

If the 2666Mhz ram set is a just a little more money, I'd go with it and take my chances.


----------



## sidekisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> There is a high chance that your cpu could push the 2400Mhz speeds with 32gb of ram.
> 
> If the 2666Mhz ram set is a just a little more money, I'd go with it and take my chances.


Thank you much for the help. I was going to go with 64G of 2133 but thought I might be better off going with the 32g at 2666


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> well this thread blew up after raja started answering questions lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to have more reps on here helping us out, Thanks Raja!


----------



## webhito

Anyone here know if http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106186 will fit on this board? I don't have access to a noctua, its the best I can get. And I don't trust water that much = /.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Hey guys I have a GTX 780 installed, are any of you guys running a dedicated card for physx? I have that 770 sitting around. Thinking of installing it thoughts?


1 does, overkill


----------



## ledzepp3

Hey all, my Black edition won't boot. All power cables and connections have been double checked, and it's lighting up (start button, ROG logo pulsing). Anything I should try to get her up and running?

-Zepp


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Hey all, my Black edition won't boot. All power cables and connections have been double checked, and it's lighting up (start button, ROG logo pulsing). Anything I should try to get her up and running?
> 
> -Zepp


Pretty sure you have done it but have you cleared your cmos?


----------



## kpoeticg

When there's an issue, it should have post codes and/or led's lit up near the 24Pin to help diagnose the issue.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> Pretty sure you have done it but have you cleared your cmos?


One of the first things I did when it wouldn't start at all, did it a few times after that just to make sure that wasn't it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> When there's an issue, it should have post codes and/or led's lit up near the 24Pin to help diagnose the issue.


The only lights aside from the usually flashy lights on the board is a small yellow light on in the bottom right hand corner of the board. It's very first BIOS version which I would think shouldn't change how the board boots for the first time?







Not sure as of what to do guys









-Zepp


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> One of the first things I did when it wouldn't start at all, did it a few times after that just to make sure that wasn't it.
> The only lights aside from the usually flashy lights on the board is a small yellow light on in the bottom right hand corner of the board. It's very first BIOS version which I would think shouldn't change how the board boots for the first time?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure as of what to do guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


you should be getting a POST code. It is @ the North East corner of the board. Also try the MEM_OK! button, and also try switching the bios (south east corner by the fan channels) also check that you plugged in the 8 pin power @ the top of the board. Check to see if you have any metal on metal anywhere, it may be causing a short.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you should be getting a POST code. It is @ the North East corner of the board. Also try the MEM_OK! button, and also try switching the bios (south east corner by the fan channels) also check that you plugged in the 8 pin power @ the top of the board. Check to see if you have any metal on metal anywhere, it may be causing a short.


Done all of the above several times before I even posted here. I talked to another OCN member on the phone and he told me to RMA my power supply, or check if there's any bent pins in the socket.

-Zepp


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, the yellow LED is just to show which BIOS you're booting. The Q-Code LED's are right next to the 24Pin. They're red led's.

So are you getting no post code whatsoever? If the board itself is powering on, then it should give some type of post code. Even a successful boot should give a code. If you're getting nothing, the board isn't powering on. Have you tried connecting a start button yourself near the bios led's?

I'd imagine even bent pins would give a bad post code. This seems like something deeper.

Did you accidentally flip the LN2 switch, or shut all the PCI lanes off maybe? Sorry if i'm stating the obvious. Just no post code is real strange in my limited experience


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, the yellow LED is just to show which BIOS you're booting. The Q-Code LED's are right next to the 24Pin. They're red led's.
> 
> So are you getting no post code whatsoever? If the board itself is powering on, then it should give some type of post code. Even a successful boot should give a code. If you're getting nothing, the board isn't powering on. Have you tried connecting a start button yourself near the bios led's?
> 
> I'd imagine even bent pins would give a bad post code. This seems like something deeper.
> 
> Did you accidentally flip the LN2 switch, or shut all the PCI lanes off maybe? Sorry if i'm stating the obvious. Just no post code is real strange in my limited experience


Hmmm... Not sure about the LN2 switch, never thought that'd prevent the system from booting. There's no error LED's by the ATX power connector, so I'll have to RMA the power supply for further testing. If that's not it, then it'll be time to talk to Asus about the board.

Thanks for the help so far guys!









-Zepp


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, the yellow LED is just to show which BIOS you're booting. The Q-Code LED's are right next to the 24Pin. They're red led's.
> 
> So are you getting no post code whatsoever? If the board itself is powering on, then it should give some type of post code. Even a successful boot should give a code. If you're getting nothing, the board isn't powering on. Have you tried connecting a start button yourself near the bios led's?
> 
> I'd imagine even bent pins would give a bad post code. This seems like something deeper.
> 
> Did you accidentally flip the LN2 switch, or shut all the PCI lanes off maybe? Sorry if i'm stating the obvious. Just no post code is real strange in my limited experience


The LN2 switch is two part, you flip the switch, & remove the cap below.
Quote:


> Slow Mode Switch could let you use -10'C cooler system and support for better overclocks limitation. When SLOW mode "Switch On", it could let your system avoid hang up issue/CPU speed slow down and adjust your system.*Before you switch on the Slow Mode switch, please change your LN2 Mode Jumper from Disable to Enable.


seems the system would still boot with that flipped.


(how you like my electrical tape sleeving!)
besides that, no post code is extremely strange. You should be getting a post code even with a bad PSU, bent pins, or blown CPU.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Maybe. When I OC, I don't use Turbo multis, so the current overdraw only seems to happen under turbo mode.
> 
> Thanks for the awesome answer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll investigate more.


No probs. If it keeps happening, send me a list of parts (CPU used, DRAM etc.), config and what you are loading the system with so I can try a replication. The error message you are seeing at POST suggests it's Anti-Surge to me. Do the shutdown occur under stress test load or entering the OS?

If Anti-Surge is enabled try disabling and see if that helps. If you find it's more OCP related, see if the Current Inertia setting at enabled cures. Let me know. If it still keeps happening and you can chase it down to OCP at stock, please stick a clamp meter on the EPS 12V line and let me know what kind of current your CPU draws at stock with your parts - that might provide some insight as well.

So far, most of the guys that I know of with OCP related shutdowns at stock have tried 0602 and it has cured the issue. Check which CPUs it happens with as well - SNB-E is a higher chance simply due to how much current those CPUs pull.


----------



## doctakedooty

So just wanted to ask here but my black edition will be here wednesday I decided to jump from my R4E but my question is I am still working on getting my water cooling set up correctly and I am curious if a 480 monsta is enough to cool the 4930k o.c. to 4.7 @ 1.38 vcore and 2 ram blocks and motherboard block with 2 swiftech mcp35x pumps. My gpus will have 1 480 , and 2 240mm just regular ones. I was going to have the monsta and a slim 240 cool my cpu loop but due to the long run between the monsta to the slim and back to the res I was having about a .25 gpm on that loop with pumps at 100%


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

^^^

480mm monsta is overkill for the cpu, mobo, and ram, so yes, it's enough.

The rest is more than enough for the gpus too.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So just wanted to ask here but my black edition will be here wednesday I decided to jump from my R4E but my question is I am still working on getting my water cooling set up correctly and I am curious if a 480 monsta is enough to cool the 4930k o.c. to 4.7 @ 1.38 vcore and 2 ram blocks and motherboard block with 2 swiftech mcp35x pumps. My gpus will have 1 480 , and 2 240mm just regular ones. I was going to have the monsta and a slim 240 cool my cpu loop but due to the long run between the monsta to the slim and back to the res I was having about a .25 gpm on that loop with pumps at 100%


should, but that pump set up is overkill !


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> 480mm monsta is overkill for the cpu, mobo, and ram, so yes, it's enough.
> 
> The rest is more than enough for the gpus too.


it was actually a pita fitting that monsta in the roof of the 900D I should be making a build log for it but honestly I barely have time between work and family to do my build properly I am currently working on a mid plate that will be black acrylic, mirror acrylic and clear acrylic with leds inside and taking out the hdd bays and have a piece put in the back with the ek logo and leds to make the ek logo glow hopefully this week I will have the rough pieces made to send off to the company using the laser cut to cut everything also going to have holes drilled by them where the acrylic tubing will run through for the rads in the bottom. My wife has cut off the funding to my build except more mdpc sleeving and a few odds and ends.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> should, but that pump set up is overkill !


the gpu are in parellel and honestly I bought the pumps because my flow meter was reading .3 gpm on gpu side and .2 on cpu loop so I ordered 2 more I have concluded I think the flow meter is wrong and that I have plenty of flow for what I am doing but even though I have 2 pumps per loop and probably threw the money away its nice to have the extra pumps in case one goes out on each loop.


----------



## CyBorg807

So I picked up a RIVBE and 4930k yesterday. Last night I set my ram to xmp 2400Mhz cl9 timings at 1.65v and I now have a quick code of 40 on the mobo. Not having any noticeable issues but I couldn't find the q code in the manual. Anyone have any idea of what the issue is?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> So I picked up a RIVBE and 4930k yesterday. Last night I set my ram to xmp 2400Mhz cl9 timings at 1.65v and I now have a quick code of 40 on the mobo. Not having any noticeable issues but I couldn't find the q code in the manual. Anyone have any idea of what the issue is?


2B ~ 55 is memory-related.


----------



## Ajay57

Can you give us some more Info to go on like the full details of the RAM!!

Your present Overclock and some settings you have tried it would help those who wish to help you!

Thanks,

AJ.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Is there a preferred blue screen viewer program you guys use? since I updated to 602 bios I'm getting blue screens while playing Black Flag. That game has been rock solid since I built the computer.


Something i compiled on another forum, comes in handy!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://s636.photobucket.com/user/nickolp1974/media/data_zps13f67223.gif.html

*ANNOYING ISN'T IT!!, don't worry where here to help







*

Just thought i'd share this list to help the ones that dont know

This list has been compiled to help when overclocking your system, if your experiencing BSOD's with a stock system, ensure that your drivers are upto date and that windows is fully updated. If problems still persist, running Memtest wouldn't be a bad idea.

Unless you have eagle eyes and are very quick to read the bsod code i would advise you to download a program called whocrashed or Bluescreen view is very good click to download your prefered choice
*WhoCrashed*
*Bluescreen View*
once you have had a bsod, boot back into windows run the program and click analyse then hey presto you have your code.

If you are not getting your codes you may have your minidump file disabled to enable follow instructions below

For win 7/8
1. Go to the Control Panel, choose 'System And Security', and then click 'System', and then click the 'Advanced System Settings' link.
2. In the opened window, click the 'Advanced' tab and then inside the 'Startup And Recovery' frame, click the 'Settings' button.
3. In the opened 'Startup And Recovery' window, there is 'Write Debugging Information' section. You should set the combo-box in this section to 'Small memory dump', and then click 'ok' to confirm the change

Should look like this



To make the below codes more accurate make sure that all your drivers are upto date or that you are using known versions not to cause problems.
Also run memtest to rule your RAM out of the equation, unstable ram can cause many BSOD's.
Here is the DL link for this to install on a usb stick http://www.memtest.org/download/5.01/memtest86+-5.01.usb.installer.zip Latest memtest installer (27/09/2013)
Main Memtest webpage http://www.memtest.org/

*BSOD codes for overclocking*

0x101 = increase vcore
0x124 = increase/decrease QPI/VTT first, if not increase/decrease vcore...have to test to see which one it is
on i7 45nm, usually means too little VVT/QPI for the speed of Uncore
on i7 32nm SB, usually means too little vCore
0x0A = unstable RAM/IMC, increase QPI first, if that doesn't work increase vcore
0x1A = Memory management error. It usually means a bad stick of Ram. Test with Memtest or whatever you prefer. Try raising your Ram voltage
0x1E = increase vcore
0x3B = increase vcore
0x3D = increase vcore
0xD1 = QPI/VTT, increase/decrease as necessary, can also be unstable Ram, raise Ram voltage
0x9C = QPI/VTT most likely, but increasing vcore has helped in some instances
0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency or uncore multi unstable, increase RAM voltage or adjust QPI/VTT, or lower uncore if you're higher than 2x
0x109 = Not enough or too Much memory voltage
0x116 = Low IOH (NB) voltage, GPU issue (most common when running multi-GPU/overclocking GPU)
0x7E = Corrupted OS file, possibly from overclocking. Run sfc /scannow and chkdsk /r

*BSOD Codes for SandyBridge*

0x124 = add/remove vcore or QPI/VTT voltage (usually Vcore, once it was QPI/VTT)
0x101 = add more vcore
0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency add DDR3 voltage or add QPI/VTT
0x1E = add more vcore
0x3B = add more vcore
0xD1 = add QPI/VTT voltage
0x9C = QPI/VTT most likely, but increasing vcore has helped in some instances"
0X109 = add DDR3 voltage
0x0A = add QPI/VTT voltage

*Haswell*, according to a source from the R.O.G forums these codes still very much apply, but where it says QPI/VTT this can also mean SA/IO for this particular architecture.

.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> Something i compiled on another forum, comes in handy!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s636.photobucket.com/user/nickolp1974/media/data_zps13f67223.gif.html
> 
> *ANNOYING ISN'T IT!!, don't worry where here to help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Just thought i'd share this list to help the ones that dont know
> 
> This list has been compiled to help when overclocking your system, if your experiencing BSOD's with a stock system, ensure that your drivers are upto date and that windows is fully updated. If problems still persist, running Memtest wouldn't be a bad idea.
> 
> Unless you have eagle eyes and are very quick to read the bsod code i would advise you to download a program called whocrashed or Bluescreen view is very good click to download your prefered choice
> *WhoCrashed*
> *Bluescreen View*
> once you have had a bsod, boot back into windows run the program and click analyse then hey presto you have your code.
> 
> If you are not getting your codes you may have your minidump file disabled to enable follow instructions below
> 
> For win 7/8
> 1. Go to the Control Panel, choose 'System And Security', and then click 'System', and then click the 'Advanced System Settings' link.
> 2. In the opened window, click the 'Advanced' tab and then inside the 'Startup And Recovery' frame, click the 'Settings' button.
> 3. In the opened 'Startup And Recovery' window, there is 'Write Debugging Information' section. You should set the combo-box in this section to 'Small memory dump', and then click 'ok' to confirm the change
> 
> Should look like this
> 
> 
> 
> To make the below codes more accurate make sure that all your drivers are upto date or that you are using known versions not to cause problems.
> Also run memtest to rule your RAM out of the equation, unstable ram can cause many BSOD's.
> Here is the DL link for this to install on a usb stick http://www.memtest.org/download/5.01/memtest86+-5.01.usb.installer.zip Latest memtest installer (27/09/2013)
> Main Memtest webpage http://www.memtest.org/
> 
> *BSOD codes for overclocking*
> 
> 0x101 = increase vcore
> 0x124 = increase/decrease QPI/VTT first, if not increase/decrease vcore...have to test to see which one it is
> on i7 45nm, usually means too little VVT/QPI for the speed of Uncore
> on i7 32nm SB, usually means too little vCore
> 0x0A = unstable RAM/IMC, increase QPI first, if that doesn't work increase vcore
> 0x1A = Memory management error. It usually means a bad stick of Ram. Test with Memtest or whatever you prefer. Try raising your Ram voltage
> 0x1E = increase vcore
> 0x3B = increase vcore
> 0x3D = increase vcore
> 0xD1 = QPI/VTT, increase/decrease as necessary, can also be unstable Ram, raise Ram voltage
> 0x9C = QPI/VTT most likely, but increasing vcore has helped in some instances
> 0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency or uncore multi unstable, increase RAM voltage or adjust QPI/VTT, or lower uncore if you're higher than 2x
> 0x109 = Not enough or too Much memory voltage
> 0x116 = Low IOH (NB) voltage, GPU issue (most common when running multi-GPU/overclocking GPU)
> 0x7E = Corrupted OS file, possibly from overclocking. Run sfc /scannow and chkdsk /r
> 
> *BSOD Codes for SandyBridge*
> 
> 0x124 = add/remove vcore or QPI/VTT voltage (usually Vcore, once it was QPI/VTT)
> 0x101 = add more vcore
> 0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency add DDR3 voltage or add QPI/VTT
> 0x1E = add more vcore
> 0x3B = add more vcore
> 0xD1 = add QPI/VTT voltage
> 0x9C = QPI/VTT most likely, but increasing vcore has helped in some instances"
> 0X109 = add DDR3 voltage
> 0x0A = add QPI/VTT voltage
> 
> *Haswell*, according to a source from the R.O.G forums these codes still very much apply, but where it says QPI/VTT this can also mean SA/IO for this particular architecture.
> 
> .


Thanks for the Information. I love the DATA video its gonna be my new Avatar! I bout fell out of my chair when I saw that! I haven't started overclocking anymore yet but I'm sure this will come in handy! +Rep Thanks Again!


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I have 4820K. Can you check if your card is runing at PCI-E 3.0 standart? Look in NVidia inspector when card is at load.




As Requested! Hope this helps you out. Both of those slots are working at PCI-E 3.0 16x.


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Can you give us some more Info to go on like the full details of the RAM!!
> 
> Your present Overclock and some settings you have tried it would help those who wish to help you!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> AJ.


It's Corsair Dominator platinum with an XMP profile of 2400MHz with 9-11-11-31 timings at 1.65V, the q code showed up after I enabled the xmp profile. I haven't touched any other Bios settings and I am running the latest Bios.

Edit:
so it turns out the q code was caused by a "fast boot" setting in windows 8, must have been eneabled around the same time I switched my ram to xmp.


----------



## mzain109

Add me also in the owner's list.plz

Proof..


----------



## xarot

0602 BIOS did not solve the shutdown 'issue' when I run everything at auto except use XMP profile (The only thing I set in BIOS). The system still shuts down under heavy load (LinX max memory). When I OC to my 4.5 GHz settings without XMP and setting everything manually, no shutdowns then. Also no shutdowns when everything at AUTO only. Now I only use 4x4 GB 1600 MHz G.Skill RipjawsZ kit.

I guess that XMP just doesn't work properly with my G.Skill kit. As XMP also sets all cores to 4 GHz, basically I'm overclocking then so dunno. If I set the turbos manually to 40 (1-2 cores), 38 (3-4 cores ), and 37 (5-6 cores) as per load, no issues then. I would figure it's not a too low Vcore that's causing the issue, as with the XMP the Vcore is almost 1.3 V for only 4 GHz. And proven I am stable at 4.4 with only 1.27 Vcore.









The board seems good to OCing but not running things near stock?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> 0602 BIOS did not solve the shutdown 'issue' when I run everything at auto except use XMP profile (The only thing I set in BIOS). The system still shuts down under heavy load (LinX max memory). When I OC to my 4.5 GHz settings without XMP and setting everything manually, no shutdowns then. Also no shutdowns when everything at AUTO only. Now I only use 4x4 GB 1600 MHz G.Skill RipjawsZ kit.


Do this,

1) Go back to stock, enable XMP.

2) Set CPU Current capability to 180%. See if that changes anything. If that stops the shutdowns, then reduce the OCP in 10% steps towards 140% and note the point at which the board starts to shutdown again.

3) After testing number 2 above set CPU Current Capability to 140% manually. Also set CPU Curretn Inrush to enabled. See what happens.

4) Report back.

At overclock all that happens is the auto rules scale the OCP settings. I want to see if we need to offset a little more at stock.


----------



## alancsalt

Does the old trick of setting optimised defaults in bios, restart into bios, and then change settings still apply to the Black?


----------



## [email protected]

Instead of clearing CMOS? Depends what you need to clear. To reset things like the ME FW etc, CMOS has to be cleared with standby power present. Loading defaults won't do that. Other than that I am not aware of any other "old tricks" from legacy days that do something special.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Do this,
> 
> 1) Go back to stock, enable XMP.
> 
> 2) Set CPU Current capability to 180%. See if that changes anything. If that stops the shutdowns, then reduce the OCP in 10% steps towards 140% and note the point at which the board starts to shutdown again.
> 
> 3) After testing number 2 above set CPU Current Capability to 140% manually. Also set CPU Curretn Inrush to enabled. See what happens.
> 
> 4) Report back.
> 
> At overclock all that happens is the auto rules scale the OCP settings. I want to see if we need to offset a little more at stock.


Thanks Raja, I will test tonight.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Does the old trick of setting optimised defaults in bios, restart into bios, and then change settings still apply to the Black?


I've always done this. I don't know why or how but I've had weird things happen before and when I do that I don't. Don't ask why...lol


----------



## alancsalt

Yeah, but from what Raja just said our newer boards need a cmos clear for a clean resurrect...


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Yeah, but from what Raja just said our newer boards need a cmos clear for a clean resurrect...


Agreed. When I want A "clean" slate I clear cmos. Just to make sure I didn't accidentally click something in a hurry I load Optimized Defaults just to CMA.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 
> 
> As Requested! Hope this helps you out. Both of those slots are working at PCI-E 3.0 16x.


Looks like I'd have a funny email with Asus technical support. Considering I have Asus board, Asus GTX 660 and PCI-E 2.0 with Ivy-E. Of course drivers and OS are freshly installed.


----------



## tistou77

To have the pcie 3.0 with IB-E (default) must have a GTX780 or higher
It is because of Nvidia drivers

No worries with AMD


----------



## chimaychanga

quick question guys

when do I need the 4pin EATX12V_1 to be connected ?


----------



## axiumone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> quick question guys
> 
> when do I need the 4pin EATX12V_1 to be connected ?


Under heavy cpu overclocking connecting the extra 4 pin helps split the current load between the 4 and the 8 pin. It's not necessary, but if your cpu is overclocked the 8 pin may get too hot and cause damage.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Do this,
> 
> 1) Go back to stock, enable XMP.
> 
> 2) Set CPU Current capability to 180%. See if that changes anything. If that stops the shutdowns, then reduce the OCP in 10% steps towards 140% and note the point at which the board starts to shutdown again.
> 
> 3) After testing number 2 above set CPU Current Capability to 140% manually. Also set CPU Curretn Inrush to enabled. See what happens.
> 
> 4) Report back.
> 
> At overclock all that happens is the auto rules scale the OCP settings. I want to see if we need to offset a little more at stock.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Thanks Raja, I will test tonight.


Sorry a busy day but I did some testing tonight and yeah I think it's related to the CPU Current Capability like you said. First I verified that the system shut down again under stress. Then I set the CPU Current Capability to 180 % and did two rounds of 40-minute heavy stress testing with a managed shutdown in between. No issues at all after touching Current Capability.

I'll look into finding the spot when the issue starts occurring but cannot promise anything for now due to work. If I manage to do this at some point I'll report back as it probably will benefit other users too...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poopsnorter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> When I raise the multiplier, turbo boost enables itself. The clock that I set becomes the turbo boost clock, and the system stays at stock clocks, because I always have every core at 100% load. How do I make this x86 box like a PowerPC? I want ONE clock speed and ONE voltage on ALL the components. I have the video cards figured out, I just flash them to the PT1 ROM. The CPU, however, does not want to cooperate. I try to shut off turbo, and it resets the manual multiplier to stock. I raise the multiplier, turbo goes on by itself, and the multiplier I set becomes the turbo mode multiplier. I shut down turbo, and multiplier gets set to stock. This is incredibly aggravating; I really am about to throw this PC out the window.


Turn off speed step.


----------



## axiumone

Turbo is what allows modern intel systems to be overclocked. Without enabling turbo, you can't overclock your CPU. I feel like you're missing something. Take a look at the numerous x79 overclocking guides on this forum for some more information.

From reading your post, I get the feeling the speedstep is what you're really referring to. Try disabling that in bios, that will keep your clocks at what ever you set then too. Speedstep down clocks your CPU when it's not at load to save power.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poopsnorter*
> 
> It is off.



K, well... This is with speedstep off, also using Strap 125.

(still working on getting the voltage back down)


----------



## Dr Mad

Hello here,

I think I have a problem related to the RIVBE in SLI mode.
I'm running 4930K (4500), strap 125 / memory 2333 C9 and 2 780ti in SLI (flashed with Skyn3t bios).

So for example, in 3Dmark13, I get approx' 13800/13900 graphic points with one card.
In SLI, I get 25600.

I tested each card and both give the same results in single mode.

My Ti are from EVGA, step-up from two 780 Classified.
When I was running these 2 cards on a Rampage IV Extreme (with same CPU and ram at same clocks), I got 12700 in single mode and 24780 in SLI (1350 on GPU).
In that case, scaling is really good : almost 95%

But for the 780 Ti SLI, scaling is really lower than expected, 85%

Is there an explanation? I noticed that a few other R4BE users have lower scores in 3D.
A friend of mine running EVGA Dark has a good scaling with 2 780 Ti (95%).

Upping some voltages doesn't change anything (I upped vccsa a bit since it handle PCI-E lanes on the CPU), 150% to CPU Current Cap, etc.

The OS is the same as when I was running 780 Classified on the R4E, it's clean and no useless programs running when I'm running 3D benches.

Only things that have changed are the motherboards and GPU's (tried older nvidia drivers, same thing). I use a Corsair AX1200i.

i'm listening to every suggestions









Thanks


----------



## CyBorg807

So still working on my OC but are these temp differences between the cores normal? This was from a slandered Intel Burn test run.


----------



## axiumone

Idle doesnt really mean much. As you can see under load you have a 9c difference between the cores, that's normal.


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Idle doesnt really mean much. As you can see under load you have a 9c difference between the cores, that's normal.


Ya that's what I was thinking, I noticed the same results with my old 3770k but it was care 2 and 3 that became hotter, I thought maybe that my heat sink might not be perfectly seated since the temps get lower in the higher # cores. Thanks for the input.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> To have the pcie 3.0 with IB-E (default) must have a GTX780 or higher
> It is because of Nvidia drivers
> 
> No worries with AMD


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Mad*
> 
> Hello here,
> 
> I think I have a problem related to the RIVBE in SLI mode.
> I'm running 4930K (4500), strap 125 / memory 2333 C9 and 2 780ti in SLI (flashed with Skyn3t bios).
> 
> So for example, in 3Dmark13, I get approx' 13800/13900 graphic points with one card.
> In SLI, I get 25600.
> 
> I tested each card and both give the same results in single mode.
> 
> My Ti are from EVGA, step-up from two 780 Classified.
> When I was running these 2 cards on a Rampage IV Extreme (with same CPU and ram at same clocks), I got 12700 in single mode and 24780 in SLI (1350 on GPU).
> In that case, scaling is really good : almost 95%
> 
> But for the 780 Ti SLI, scaling is really lower than expected, 85%
> 
> Is there an explanation? I noticed that a few other R4BE users have lower scores in 3D.
> A friend of mine running EVGA Dark has a good scaling with 2 780 Ti (95%).
> 
> Upping some voltages doesn't change anything (I upped vccsa a bit since it handle PCI-E lanes on the CPU), 150% to CPU Current Cap, etc.
> 
> The OS is the same as when I was running 780 Classified on the R4E, it's clean and no useless programs running when I'm running 3D benches.
> 
> Only things that have changed are the motherboards and GPU's (tried older nvidia drivers, same thing). I use a Corsair AX1200i.
> 
> i'm listening to every suggestions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


sounds like driver optimization. the same that people always accuse amd of, which ironically all components have on both sides
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Idle doesnt really mean much. As you can see under load you have a 9c difference between the cores, that's normal.
> 
> 
> 
> Ya that's what I was thinking, I noticed the same results with my old 3770k but it was care 2 and 3 that became hotter, I thought maybe that my heat sink might not be perfectly seated since the temps get lower in the higher # cores. Thanks for the input.
Click to expand...

they read the actual temp on the cores, and you will never see a intel with al core the same temps, no way to make all cores read the same as they all have minor variances between them so they each handle power differently


----------



## CyBorg807

So what's the average everyone is getting for OCs with these chips? I have only been at it for about a day and I know I can only get 4.5Ghz with 1.4V or lower which was the recommended safe voltage on the ROG forums. I am running a 4930K with 4x4GB sticks of 2400MHz CL9 ram, prime 95 failed after about 4 hours at 4.6GHz and 1.4V everything else set to auto.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> So what's the average everyone is getting for OCs with these chips? I have only been at it for about a day and I know I can only get 4.5Ghz with 1.4V or lower which was the recommended safe voltage on the ROG forums. I am running a 4930K with 4x4GB sticks of 2400MHz CL9 ram, prime 95 failed after about 4 hours at 4.6GHz and 1.4V everything else set to auto.


Try lowering VCCSA and VTT, might help. Might not, too. 4.5 GHz is decent, not the best, but not the worst, either. I have one 4.3 and one 4.2 chip, then one that I 4.5 @ 1.25V with.


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Try lowering VCCSA and VTT, might help. Might not, too. 4.5 GHz is decent, not the best, but not the worst, either. I have one 4.3 and one 4.2 chip, then one that I 4.5 @ 1.25V with.


Ya Guess I will work on it over the next couple days and see what I can get out of it., A little disappointing since I was able to get 4.6GHz with my 3770K at 1.3V but I guess it could be worse, I could just return it and try another attempt at the silicon lottery if I really wanted to. What is the clock per clock single core performance vs a regular ivy bridge chip anyway with Ivy-E?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> Ya Guess I will work on it over the next couple days and see what I can get out of it., A little disappointing since I was able to get 4.6GHz with my 3770K at 1.3V but I guess it could be worse, I could just return it and try another attempt at the silicon lottery if I really wanted to. What is the clock per clock single core performance vs a regular ivy bridge chip anyway with Ivy-E?


They are pretty equal, but with the added BCLK and memory ability, when you get a great chip, IVB-E is better.

Haswell itself is still faster for most users, if you do not take advantage of the cores, due to faster cache (roughly 200GB/s difference between chips).

4.6 GHz @ 1.3V is OK, but not great for IVB. Some chips will do 5 GHz @ that voltage.

Haswell, 4.6 GHz @ 1.3 V is GREAT.

So you can see, IVB-E is somewhere beyond that...4.6 GHz @ 1.4V is GREAT. I had been binning for good chips using 1.35V for 4.7 GHz, and some will do better than that...I can run 4.7 GHz, but heavy loading is too much for my cooling. GIven that these chips are nearly twice as large physically compared to IVB, I think the lower clock is fine..is only a couple 100 MHz, anyway.


----------



## nickolp1974

I'm running 4.7ghz @ 1.36v with LLC at high 24/7 with all energy savings enabled. 4.8 is dooable at around 1.42v and this is where my wall starts


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Do this,
> 
> 1) Go back to stock, enable XMP.
> 
> 2) Set CPU Current capability to 180%. See if that changes anything. If that stops the shutdowns, then reduce the OCP in 10% steps towards 140% and note the point at which the board starts to shutdown again.
> 
> 3) After testing number 2 above set CPU Current Capability to 140% manually. Also set CPU Curretn Inrush to enabled. See what happens.
> 
> 4) Report back.
> 
> At overclock all that happens is the auto rules scale the OCP settings. I want to see if we need to offset a little more at stock.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Sorry a busy day but I did some testing tonight and yeah I think it's related to the CPU Current Capability like you said. First I verified that the system shut down again under stress. Then I set the CPU Current Capability to 180 % and did two rounds of 40-minute heavy stress testing with a managed shutdown in between. No issues at all after touching Current Capability.
> 
> I'll look into finding the spot when the issue starts occurring but cannot promise anything for now due to work. If I manage to do this at some point I'll report back as it probably will benefit other users too...


Ok found some time and went all the way to 140 % when the shutdowns started happening. Then I enabled Inrush Inertia and no shutdowns anymore at 140 %. But somehow after that I had many, many issues that the board would not POST at all. I finally had to reflash the whole BIOS. Maybe it got corrupted with the shutdowns?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> I'm running 4.7ghz @ 1.36v with LLC at high 24/7 with all energy savings enabled. 4.8 is dooable at around 1.42v and this is where my wall starts


That is pretty good for a 4930k.


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> They are pretty equal, but with the added BCLK and memory ability, when you get a great chip, IVB-E is better.
> 
> Haswell itself is still faster for most users, if you do not take advantage of the cores, due to faster cache (roughly 200GB/s difference between chips).
> 
> 4.6 GHz @ 1.3V is OK, but not great for IVB. Some chips will do 5 GHz @ that voltage.
> 
> Haswell, 4.6 GHz @ 1.3 V is GREAT.
> 
> So you can see, IVB-E is somewhere beyond that...4.6 GHz @ 1.4V is GREAT. I had been binning for good chips using 1.35V for 4.7 GHz, and some will do better than that...I can run 4.7 GHz, but heavy loading is too much for my cooling. GIven that these chips are nearly twice as large physically compared to IVB, I think the lower clock is fine..is only a couple 100 MHz, anyway.


Well cooling isn't really an issue at 1.4V but I doubt I could go much higher without breaking 90C so that is my cut off for voltage, I also made the mistake of buying an H100i before realizing that Corsair Link has issues running on Win 8.1 and from the loooks of it Corsair isn't fixing it any time soon, so I am returning that and getting an H105, I might return this chip at the same time.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> Well cooling isn't really an issue at 1.4V but I doubt I could go much higher without breaking 90C so that is my cut off for voltage, I also made the mistake of buying an H100i before realizing that Corsair Link has issues running on Win 8.1 and from the loooks of it Corsair isn't fixing it any time soon, so I am returning that and getting an H105, I might return this chip at the same time.


honestly I went through a few chips before settling for 4.7 most do 4.5. The corsair link when I had a h100i on a 3930k i found to be useful in some ways but I ended up just plugging my fans into the cpu headers of the motherboard and have my fan profile adjust them I only used the link software for changing the led color. Other then that on wins 7 it would crash or cause issues at boot but again that was almost a year ago. The h100i does a pretty good job at what it does and even with a higher clocking chip at that same voltage your going to have slightly more heat. If temps are a concern I don't know any aio that are not going to give roughly the same cooling. Your next step would be maybe a custom cpu loop and add in your gpu later. The cost for a basic setup for a cpu won't run you to much more for barb fittings etc buying new but if you keep a look out in the for sale thread you woh of build you a nice loop with compressions etc pretty cheap also. That's my 2 cents though but it sounds to me like your in the same boat I was in a year ago and want performance. Also your chip may do 4.6 at your voltage you have now these scale with cold so the cooler you can keep the chip the more you can oc it at same voltage.


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> honestly I went through a few chips before settling for 4.7 most do 4.5. The corsair link when I had a h100i on a 3930k i found to be useful in some ways but I ended up just plugging my fans into the cpu headers of the motherboard and have my fan profile adjust them I only used the link software for changing the led color. Other then that on wins 7 it would crash or cause issues at boot but again that was almost a year ago. The h100i does a pretty good job at what it does and even with a higher clocking chip at that same voltage your going to have slightly more heat. If temps are a concern I don't know any aio that are not going to give roughly the same cooling. Your next step would be maybe a custom cpu loop and add in your gpu later. The cost for a basic setup for a cpu won't run you to much more for barb fittings etc buying new but if you keep a look out in the for sale thread you woh of build you a nice loop with compressions etc pretty cheap also. That's my 2 cents though but it sounds to me like your in the same boat I was in a year ago and want performance. Also your chip may do 4.6 at your voltage you have now these scale with cold so the cooler you can keep the chip the more you can oc it at same voltage.


Ya money isn't really an issue or anything it's more just a lack of interest in custom loops since I swap parts every couple of months and don't want to rip apart a loop, and I am a big fan of the Corsair Link software but with it's current state in 8.1 I am going to avoid it for now, maybe if another update comes along or they release an H105i I will consider trying it again but the last beta update was in December so I am doubtful that they are continuing support, especially since I am pretty sure they discontinued the stand alone Corsair link units. What do you think the chances are that I will end up with a better chip if I return this one?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> Ya money isn't really an issue or anything it's more just a lack of interest in custom loops since I swap parts every couple of months and don't want to rip apart a loop, and I am a big fan of the Corsair Link software but with it's current state in 8.1 I am going to avoid it for now, maybe if another update comes along or they release an H105i I will consider trying it again but the last beta update was in December so I am doubtful that they are continuing support, especially since I am pretty sure they discontinued the stand alone Corsair link units. What do you think the chances are that I will end up with a better chip if I return this one?


unplug the cooler's USB plug.

Uninstall all the Link software.

install software after reboot, then shut down and connect cooler.

Should work fine..worked for me with most recent version, anyway.

Software doesn't work right when firmware doesn't match, and firmware update is rather poopy without most recent version. (I am using 2.5.5146)

BTW, H100i is far from high-end cooling. 90c @ 1.4V with h100i is actually pretty decent.


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> unplug the cooler.
> 
> Uninstall all the Link software.
> 
> install software after reboot, then shut down and connect cooler.
> 
> Should work fine..worked for me with most recent version, anyway.
> 
> Software doesn't work right when firmware doesn't match, and firmware update is rather poopy without most recent version. (I am using 2.5.5146)
> 
> BTW, H100i is far from high-end cooling. 90c @ 1.4V with h100i is actually pretty decent.


Ya I have already tried re installing and disconnecting it a couple times, running the newest firmware and Software, It work maybe 1-10 times that I boot it up, the rest of the time it won't display any connected devices besides the fans that get stuck at the same speed as when it booted. It also resets the LED colour from red to pink on boot.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That is pretty good for a 4930k.


Yeah a lot better than my first, which required 1.42v for 4.5ghz, this got returned under the tuning plan


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> Ya I have already tried re installing and disconnecting it a couple times, running the newest firmware and Software, It work maybe 1-10 times that I boot it up, the rest of the time it won't display any connected devices besides the fans that get stuck at the same speed as when it booted. It also resets the LED colour from red to pink on boot.


I had that problem as well. Make sure you get rid of old profiles, too, that might be the problem.

I also RMA'd my cooler, come to think of it, and when I installed the software it just all worked fine, updated firmware and all.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I had that problem as well. Make sure you get rid of old profiles, too, that might be the problem.
> 
> I also RMA'd my cooler, come to think of it, and when I installed the software it just all worked fine, updated firmware and all.


I guess I am pretty lucky, Mine work when I had the H80i installed and it is still working, I can adjust my PSU fan rpm and I see all other temps and even gpu fan and temp.


----------



## eduncan911

Quick question guys... I've installed Win 8.1 Pro x64 a few times (I format a lot for work) and all has been well.

But this last time, I just noticed that my USB3 ports no longer are working. None on the back of the motherboard. Humm. This is very strange.

Yes, they are all enabled in the BIOS. Yes, going into the individual USB settings shows them all enabled.

I can't connect USB2 or USB3 devices to them. They simply don't work.

In contrast, I can plugin any USB2 or USB3 device into my Front Panel I/O which has USB2 ports on them (connected via the onboard headers) and they work fine.

Thoughts?


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> Yeah a lot better than my first, which required 1.42v for 4.5ghz, this got returned under the tuning plan


Is it really no questions asked when using the tuning plan? I've got a couple of 4930k's that leave much to be desired, and unfortunately where I live you cannot just return them to the store for another one.
I've been considering purchasing the tuning plan for them and trying my luck there, but was wondering if there is a certain procedure you have to follow


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Is it really no questions asked when using the tuning plan? I've got a couple of 4930k's that leave much to be desired, and unfortunately where I live you cannot just return them to the store for another one.
> I've been considering purchasing the tuning plan for them and trying my luck there, but was wondering if there is a certain procedure you have to follow


Well, the tuning plan is not exactly "no questions asked". It's not available for consumers in certain countries (Burma, Cuba, Iran, North Korea, Sudan, and Syria), and it covers only "_if the failure occurs while operating the processor outside of the publicly available specifications. All other claims are serviced by the standard 3 year warranty_." In other words, the tuning plan only covers failures on an overclocked CPU that was covered by the plan, and only for the duration of the standard 3 year warranty. Also, there is a 30 day wait period after purchasing the plan before a CPU can be replaced under it.

You can find all that and more, here: http://click.intel.com/tuningplan/faq


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, the tuning plan is not exactly "no questions asked". It's not available for consumers in certain countries (Burma, Cuba, Iran, North Korea, Sudan, and Syria), and it covers only "_if the failure occurs while operating the processor outside of the publicly available specifications. All other claims are serviced by the standard 3 year warranty_." In other words, the tuning plan only covers failures on an overclocked CPU that was covered by the plan, and only for the duration of the standard 3 year warranty. Also, there is a 30 day wait period after purchasing the plan before a CPU can be replaced under it.
> 
> You can find all that and more, here: http://click.intel.com/tuningplan/faq


Thanks, I've read all that and have a couple of the plans in my cart already, but waiting to find out more personal experiences from users on what qualified their returns using the tuning plan.


----------



## kpoeticg

Skupples is the one that convinced me to grab the Tuning Plan right after i got my 4930k. For 25bux it's really a nobrainer if you plan on OC'ing. Especially for some1 like me that's a complete n00b with OC'ing


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Quick question guys... I've installed Win 8.1 Pro x64 a few times (I format a lot for work) and all has been well.
> 
> But this last time, I just noticed that my USB3 ports no longer are working. None on the back of the motherboard. Humm. This is very strange.
> 
> Yes, they are all enabled in the BIOS. Yes, going into the individual USB settings shows them all enabled.
> 
> I can't connect USB2 or USB3 devices to them. They simply don't work.
> 
> In contrast, I can plugin any USB2 or USB3 device into my Front Panel I/O which has USB2 ports on them (connected via the onboard headers) and they work fine.
> 
> Thoughts?


Go to the website and download the drivers. Check your device manager to see if you have any red exclamation signs, if you do uninstall, restart and see if it's fix.


----------



## CyBorg807

Well I got a new chip and an H105, ran a burn test with 4.6GHz and 1.4V and My CPU jumped right to 100C on one core, the coolest core was 83C, I tried loosening and re tightening the screws assuming there wasn't even pressure, I even tried applying extra pressure while running in case for some reason it was seated properly, Idle temps are getting as high as 50C also. The cooler is definitely pumping and the fans are running at a good speed rpm so I don't thinks it's the cooler, either way can't return anything until tomorrow now.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question guys... I've installed Win 8.1 Pro x64 a few times (I format a lot for work) and all has been well.
> 
> But this last time, I just noticed that my USB3 ports no longer are working. None on the back of the motherboard. Humm. This is very strange.
> 
> Yes, they are all enabled in the BIOS. Yes, going into the individual USB settings shows them all enabled.
> 
> I can't connect USB2 or USB3 devices to them. They simply don't work.
> 
> In contrast, I can plugin any USB2 or USB3 device into my Front Panel I/O which has USB2 ports on them (connected via the onboard headers) and they work fine.
> 
> Thoughts?


I would try flashing the motherboard bios/switching bios if the driver packs are not working.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> Quick question guys... I've installed Win 8.1 Pro x64 a few times (I format a lot for work) and all has been well.
> 
> But this last time, I just noticed that my USB3 ports no longer are working. None on the back of the motherboard. Humm. This is very strange.
> 
> Yes, they are all enabled in the BIOS. Yes, going into the individual USB settings shows them all enabled.
> 
> I can't connect USB2 or USB3 devices to them. They simply don't work.
> 
> In contrast, I can plugin any USB2 or USB3 device into my Front Panel I/O which has USB2 ports on them (connected via the onboard headers) and they work fine.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Go to the website and download the drivers. Check your device manager to see if you have any red exclamation signs, if you do uninstall, restart and see if it's fix.
Click to expand...


----------



## fatfree

Hey guys, I was having board for some time now and encountered plenty of substantial problems.
First config:
4930K, Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400 10-12-12-31-2N (two 8Gb kits - 4x4) , Rampage Black Edition (0602), Corsair AX1200i, 7970 Trifire. Both CPUPower connectors and Molex are connected to the motherboard. CPU and graphic cards are under water.

1. Constant reboots, without BSODs. Am currently trying what *xarot* does - raising CPU Current capability to 180% and stress testing.
2. In Auto mode board sets VTT to ~1.25 Volts, while VCSSA to ~1.16. Also XMP profile says dominator-10-12-12-31-2N-1.65-*1.20*, is this second voltage VTT?
3. Memory write performance is quite lower than read performance - 45 vs 60. Is it fixable?

And some question related to general functionality.
a) I am not entirely sure how offset mode is diffirent from manual CPU voltage control. Any pros\cons? What does +\- 0.000x relates to. Please point me to any guide.
b) What advantages-disadvantages of setting BCLK to 125.

Thanks!
_______________
EDIT.
LinX stopped with an error after 20 minutes on 180%. I ran memtest afterwards without problems.
Getting pretty desperate here. Considering getting new 2133 memory, single kit.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Is it really no questions asked when using the tuning plan? I've got a couple of 4930k's that leave much to be desired, and unfortunately where I live you cannot just return them to the store for another one.
> I've been considering purchasing the tuning plan for them and trying my luck there, but was wondering if there is a certain procedure you have to follow


All you have to say and this is a must, is that after overclocking it requires more voltage than before at stock clocks, the whole process from first contact, start to finish took 10 days, this was sending the chip to germany, i'm in the uk.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> All you have to say and this is a must, is that after overclocking it requires more voltage than before at stock clocks, the whole process from first contact, start to finish took 10 days, this was sending the chip to germany, i'm in the uk.


Fair enough, thanks for that!

Didn't mean to steer off topic!

Back to Black!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Ok found some time and went all the way to 140 % when the shutdowns started happening. Then I enabled Inrush Inertia and no shutdowns anymore at 140 %. But somehow after that I had many, many issues that the board would not POST at all. I finally had to reflash the whole BIOS. Maybe it got corrupted with the shutdowns?


Hi,

1) Was the board at stock when you were testing "inrush Inertia"? Load Vcore is slightly lower with it enabled.
2) If you only get the shutdowns at 140% , then we're pretty close.

-Raja


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 1) Was the board at stock when you were testing "inrush Inertia"? Load Vcore is slightly lower with it enabled.
> 2) If you only get the shutdowns at 140% , then we're pretty close.
> 
> -Raja


Yes stock, like this between tests, does this clarify?

1) Stock/Auto, enabled XMP, CPU Current Capability 140 % -> shutdown
2) Stock/Auto, enabled XMP, CPU Current Capability 140 % and Inrush Inertia Enabled -> no shutdown.

I checked with TurboV Core that my Vcore dropped to approx 1.275 V at stock when I enabled Inrush Inertia. Without Inrush Inertia it was 1.29 - 1.325 V depending on boot...not always the same between boots.


----------



## friskiest

From EK's fb.


Not too sure about this one..


----------



## szeged

Wow looks weird lol.


----------



## skupples

That might be the ugliest thing EK has made in years.


----------



## friskiest

I couldn't agree more


----------



## szeged

Yeah I don't really like it lol.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> From EK's fb.
> 
> 
> Not too sure about this one..


i love full board blocks, although i am a swiftech nutcase i may have to get both this and the normal board block it may be fun !!!!! really wish swiftech would get into board blocks !


----------



## axiumone

Woa... what in the hell is that...


----------



## Mega Man

called full board block, they do it with MITX one block for whole board, excluding GPUs


----------



## derickwm

As I said in the EK Club thread, this is a preview sample, nothing more. All final variations will be nickel plated and be much cleaner. We're especially looking forward to the acetal versions, although once you put some Mayhems pastel in the plexi...


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> From EK's fb.
> 
> 
> Not too sure about this one..


That looks really bad. Would be nice for them to sell the VRM block separate from the chipset, but I'm happy with the combo. Looks great. This new design? Just looks awful, sorry.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> As I said in the EK Club thread, this is a preview sample, nothing more. _*All final variations will be nickel plated*_ and be much cleaner. We're especially looking forward to the acetal versions, although once you put some Mayhems pastel in the plexi...


dear god please no, not everyone likes nickel ( hi from me ! )


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I MUCH prefer copper over nickel and I don't care much at all for plexi (see-thru) blocks, and never have been a fan of EK's generic square-looking blocks in general (especially if they have crop circles on them).

All that said, I think that new EK RIVBE full board block probably will look pretty decent in the right build, in nickel with a colored liquid running through it. I think it will make for a much cleaner looking loop. It for sure won't be in one of my builds, but someone else's probably will look pretty epic with that block. I suspect that with many of those who say they don't like the look of it now that it will grow on them, especially once they see it in some of the builds that will soon be using it.


----------



## kpoeticg

I def prefer copper/plexi clean for my own blocks. It all depends on the person and the build though

I'd rather not be scared of Nickel & mixing metals, but i am and try to avoid it whenever i can. I think Nickel Blocks usually look sek-see-er. Acetal looks great in alot of builds too


----------



## skupples

I don't think EK will ever be able to shake the bad rep from the EN series nickel issues. If I had to guess the majority of nickel issues on their new blocks are a result of user error. Though in theory, if the nickel is thick enough you shouldn't really need anti-corrosive properties out the wazoo.


----------



## kpoeticg

It's not "EK Nickel" i'm scared of. Just mixing metals in general. It's one more thing to worry about

I'm still pretty new to watercooling and don't pretend to know everything. I was DYING for the Monsoon Hardline Fittings to be released, and didn't go with them because of the Silver bases.

Just seems like Copper & Brass is the safest way to go


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't think EK will ever be able to shake the bad rep from the EN series nickel issues. If I had to guess the majority of nickel issues on their new blocks are a result of user error. Though in theory, if the nickel is thick enough you shouldn't really need anti-corrosive properties out the wazoo.


or they could go swiftech route and do a nice and thick coat of real chrome ! it is just sexay


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or they could go swiftech route and do a nice and thick coat of real chrome ! it is just sexay


They could, but swiftech also has a bad public perception around these parts, just not for flaking.


----------



## infinitepc2001

photo1.JPG 1954k .JPG file




Looking to get max overclock out of this rig, ive been building rigs since 2001. Ive never manually overclocked and need help plz.

Mike


----------



## xarot

I believe this has been asked many times, but is there any long-term harm in running my rig at 4.5 GHz with CPU Current Capability at 180 %? I believe the CPU only pulls as much current as it needs and the only thing I am trying to avoid is throttling or the notorious shutdown issue.

I swapped my new 4x8 GB kit in yesterday, and boom wasn't stable at AUTO anymore..shutdown again.









And as I wrote I only run 4.5 GHz max at 1.328 - 1.368 Vcore (CPU-Z). My CPU is a dog beyond that.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Hi guys,
I need your help. Can anybody clone the drive CD to *.ISO and share with me? Thank you:thumb:


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infinitepc2001*
> 
> photo1.JPG 1954k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking to get max overclock out of this rig, ive been building rigs since 2001. Ive never manually overclocked and need help plz.
> 
> Mike


start by sticking the ram in the proper slots. should be a slot of space between the sticks.

You got H90 or H110....enable XMP, set CPU voltage to 1.25V, 1.05 VTT, 0.95V VCCSA, CPU VRM setting to 180%, then start playing with CPU multi. That's about all ya got to do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> I believe this has been asked many times, but is there any long-term harm in running my rig at 4.5 GHz with CPU Current Capability at 180 %? I believe the CPU only pulls as much current as it needs and the only thing I am trying to avoid is throttling or the notorious shutdown issue.
> 
> I swapped my new 4x8 GB kit in yesterday, and boom wasn't stable at AUTO anymore..shutdown again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And as I wrote I only run 4.5 GHz max at 1.328 - 1.368 Vcore (CPU-Z). My CPU is a dog beyond that.


should be fine. Remember that 140% is "stock".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I need your help. Can anybody clone the drive CD to *.ISO and share with me? Thank you:thumb:


Man...I have such an ISO, but where can it be shared? uploading 5 GB isn't exactly a small task, either...


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Man...I have such an ISO, but where can it be shared? uploading 5 GB isn't exactly a small task, either...


Upload to dropbox or other cloud storage, take your time, I'm not in such hurry


----------



## skupples

9.5V VCCSA?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 9.5V VCCSA?


Huh?


----------



## skupples




----------



## friskiest

Is chip kill?


----------



## Pixcat

Hello everyone I have a Rampage 4 BE board and installed the latest bios (602).

Prior to update the cpu voltage ratio were 40 - 1.27v
And now with the new bios voltages dropped to 40 - 1.17v and 43-1.275v.

This and normal?


----------



## Mydog

Almost finished here









RIVBE and 2x 780 Ti Classy, dual loop with 360x60mm and 280x60mm radds in each loop

YES I like the QDC's


----------



## doctakedooty

That looks really good I got my black edition in yesterday I had dual loops planned with a 480 monsta on the cpu and ram and later buy the motherboard block and just use the vrm one and a 480, and 2 240s for 3 780Ti ref. I may do a single loop but I hate to waste all these pumps and extra res I bought for it.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

All this dual loop talk, now I want a dual loop set up.


----------



## Mydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> All this dual loop talk, now I want a dual loop set up.


Dual loop is the way to for benching with max CPU and GPU voltages and speeds, next step would be a subzero setup.

For normal use a single loop works fine.


----------



## amra88

Well, one more subscription!









Now running:
4930K 4.6 gHz (set in BIOS, C-states auto)
Vcore: 1.39V, LLC on High
VCCSA: 1.35V, LLC on High, VCCSA frequency 450Hz
64GB RAM 2133 CL 11, CR 2

I've also noticed a reduction in the voltages needed for stability with the last BIOS update! Will post some pics of the rig soon, now it's a mess from tubes because originally I didn't figure that EK blocks could do parallel flow without a Y connector, hehehe... Probably will fix that this weekend!


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amra88*
> 
> I've also noticed a reduction in the voltages needed for stability with the last BIOS update!


Have you updated from 5xx BIOS series, or from 4xx series?


----------



## amra88

Quote:


> Have you updated from 5xx BIOS series, or from 4xx series?


I was at 0403 previously...
One thing that caught my attention is that, strangely, my top PCI-E slot is now being read at x8, and the third as x16... tried reseating the 290x on the top slot but it shows at x8, both in the EFI and on GPU-Z (while rendering)... Any ideas?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amra88*
> 
> I was at 0403 previously...
> One thing that caught my attention is that, strangely, my top PCI-E slot is now being read at x8, and the third as x16... tried reseating the 290x on the top slot but it shows at x8, both in the EFI and on GPU-Z (while rendering)... Any ideas?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by Raghar
> I have 4820K. Can you check if your card is running at PCI-E 3.0 standard? Look in NVidia inspector when card is at load.
> 
> As Requested! Hope this helps you out. Both of those slots are working at PCI-E 3.0 16x.


Check with this other member he was having a similar issue. I tested both slot 1 and 3 for him on my board i have pci 3.0 x16 on both slots.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

My board is acting goofy again in cold boots. Programs crash, And then blue screen.

Running the latest BIOS, with everything at stock settings, including the graphics card.
This problem had gone away after reinstalling Win7. It came back last night. In order to avoid it, I have to restart after powering the computer on. If I do that, it's rock solid.

Definitely wanting to ditch this board and grab a RIVE/3970x instead.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My board is acting goofy again in cold boots. Programs crash, And then blue screen.
> 
> Running the latest BIOS, with everything at stock settings, including the graphics card.
> This problem had gone away after reinstalling Win7. It came back last night. In order to avoid it, I have to restart after powering the computer on. If I do that, it's rock solid.
> 
> Definitely wanting to ditch this board and grab a RIVE/3970x instead.


Why do you think it's the board and not the CPU or RAM? That sounds like a fouling OS. Ram instability (or borked ram) can accumulate errors that will eventually corrupt the OS. Set a low solid OC (like 42 or even stock) manually set the ram to XMP values, then p95 custom, 5min per FFT, and 12288 ram out of 16G. Let it run at least 30 min. If you have a ram problem a worker will choke in the large FFTs. Use 5 min per cause you want to sample as many FFTs quickly.

Or... open windows movie maker and encode a 1-2h AVI to wmv

oh - open a cmnd prompt, type in "sfc /scannow" ... and integrity violations in the OS?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Why do you think it's the board and not the CPU or RAM? That sounds like a fouling OS. Ram instability (or borked ram) can accumulate errors that will eventually corrupt the OS. Set a low solid OC (like 42 or even stock) manually set the ram to XMP values, then p95 custom, 5min per FFT, and 12288 ram out of 16G. Let it run at least 30 min. If you have a ram problem a worker will choke in the large FFTs. Use 5 min per cause you want to sample as many FFTs quickly.
> 
> Or... open windows movie maker and encode a 1-2h AVI to wmv
> 
> oh - open a cmnd prompt, type in "sfc /scannow" ... and integrity violations in the OS?


Aside from the Memory, it's the only constant variable that has been installed since the crashing started. I don't understand, what exactly happens when I restart that PC, that makes it stable.

Thanks for the input, gonna try that now and see if it helps. Will also try to get a hold of a different memory kit.


----------



## amra88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> My board is acting goofy again in cold boots. Programs crash, And then blue screen.
> 
> Running the latest BIOS, with everything at stock settings, including the graphics card.
> This problem had gone away after reinstalling Win7. It came back last night. In order to avoid it, I have to restart after powering the computer on. If I do that, it's rock solid.
> 
> Definitely wanting to ditch this board and grab a RIVE/3970x instead.


I'd see a couple of options there... from my (limited) experience with the board, if you are running RAM at 2400, you'd need at least a little bump in VCCSA voltage... I've hit my head in the wall a LOT before realizing that, hehehe.. so, maybe an option. Two other things that helped me: changing the switching frequency of the PWM under Digi+ (VCCSA switching frequency) - I've set mine at 450Hz and it improved a lot the stability; another thing is the RAM current capability - don't know if it's worth just upping just for 8GB sticks but I'd try upping that to 130% if your sticks are 1.65V).
Another thing that I painfully learned in the last 3 years using a RevoDrive x2 is that SSDs get corrupted a lot when your get overclocking failures. Just one is enough for filesystem errors, and if you let them accumulate sometimes the OS really get screwed... I'd try running a chkdsk /f followed by an sfc /scannow if it's getting unstable again and the system is stable!
Hope I've helped! Cheers!

Edit: grammar


----------



## amra88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Check with this other member he was having a similar issue. I tested both slot 1 and 3 for him on my board i have pci 3.0 x16 on both slots.


Thanks!! Will do that!


----------



## S1lv3rflame

This is mah build









Tho..

***HELP REQUIRED***

How come i am unable to set my ram speed to anything above 1600 mhz?
I have the 4930k cpu, and the ram is 2400 Mhz ram.
I have updated the BIOS but that dident change anyone


----------



## Mega Man

never heard of this issue ~ are you changing in bios ?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> ***HELP REQUIRED***
> 
> How come i am unable to set my ram speed to anything above 1600 mhz?
> I have the 4930k cpu, and the ram is 2400 Mhz ram.
> I have updated the BIOS but that dident change anyone


If nothing is changed in bios then 1600 is the default speed of 1600, 2133, 2400, 2600, etc DDR3 ram.
The quick way to get your 2400MHz is to enable XMP in bios. (On my RIVE that raised the vcore for the cpu as well, so I had to manually set that.)

The "not so quick" way is to manually set your ram speed in bios and raise dram volts to 1.65v - 1.66v ....


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> never heard of this issue ~ are you changing in bios ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> never heard of this issue ~ are you changing in bios ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> If nothing is changed in bios then 1600 is the default speed of 1600, 2133, 2400, 2600, etc DDR3 ram.
> The quick way to get your 2400MHz is to enable XMP in bios. (On my RIVE that raised the vcore for the cpu as well, so I had to manually set that.)
> 
> The "not so quick" way is to manually set your ram speed in bios and raise dram volts to 1.65v - 1.66v ....


Issue has been resolved







Posted at 3 diffrent Forum, mainly because its... well... 4 am...
XMP mode solved the problem, and i am now at 2400 Mhz


----------



## alancsalt

@S1lv3rflame
Just out of curiosity, to see if your motherboard does the same thing as my RIVE, now that you have XMP enabled could you run CPUZ and tell me what the vcore reading is?


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> @S1lv3rflame
> Just out of curiosity, to see if your motherboard does the same thing as my RIVE, now that you have XMP enabled could you run CPUZ and tell me what the vcore reading is?


"The Computer says noooo"

CPU-Z keeps crashing upon validation soo...

Paint to the rescue!


----------



## alancsalt

That's good. Doesn't have my issue. You're laughing.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> That's good. Doesn't have my issue. You're laughing.


I'm laughing? Nah. My black WD drive is making wierd scratchy noises... Soo... But dunno wether thats normal. If not, i can't get it out, because the hotswap is stuck.,


----------



## 2slick4u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> I'm laughing? Nah. My black WD drive is making wierd scratchy noises... Soo... But dunno wether thats normal. If not, i can't get it out, because the hotswap is stuck.,


We have quite a similar build







nice!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> I'm laughing? Nah. My black WD drive is making wierd scratchy noises... Soo... But dunno wether thats normal. If not, i can't get it out, because the hotswap is stuck.,


WD BLACK drives are noisy, for sure, and installed in 540 AIR, yep, very noisy, since there is no real anti-vibration devices.

Seems there are many of us in 540 air with Dominator Platinums and this board.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> WD BLACK drives are noisy, for sure, and installed in 540 AIR, yep, very noisy, since there is no real anti-vibration devices.
> 
> Seems there are many of us in 540 air with Dominator Platinums and this board.


Atleast one does not hear them with headphones on


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> WD BLACK drives are noisy, for sure, and installed in 540 AIR, yep, very noisy, since there is no real anti-vibration devices.
> 
> Seems there are many of us in 540 air with Dominator Platinums and this board.


Didn't have the $$$$ for the Platinums...lol Went with the Ripjaws Z 2133 for me


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pixcat*
> 
> Hello everyone I have a Rampage 4 BE board and installed the latest bios (602).
> 
> Prior to update the cpu voltage ratio were 40 - 1.27v
> And now with the new bios voltages dropped to 40 - 1.17v and 43-1.275v.
> 
> This and normal?


From what i have seen and read on this thread Raja @ Asus did mention they had been tuning the VRM's with the New Bios!!

So maybe that's why there is a improvement at your end anything that lowers Vcore and allows you to increase your OC is a bonus.

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Why do you think it's the board and not the CPU or RAM? That sounds like a fouling OS. Ram instability (or borked ram) can accumulate errors that will eventually corrupt the OS. Set a low solid OC (like 42 or even stock) manually set the ram to XMP values, then p95 custom, 5min per FFT, and 12288 ram out of 16G. Let it run at least 30 min. If you have a ram problem a worker will choke in the large FFTs. Use 5 min per cause you want to sample as many FFTs quickly.
> 
> Or... open windows movie maker and encode a 1-2h AVI to wmv
> 
> oh - open a cmnd prompt, type in "sfc /scannow" ... and integrity violations in the OS?


No integrity violations.

Enabled XMP and ran p95 for 1 hour. After about 20 mins it so one of the cores dropped from 100% usage- to exactly 50% usage. Not sure what that means.


----------



## amra88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> No integrity violations.
> 
> Enabled XMP and ran p95 for 1 hour. After about 20 mins it so one of the cores dropped from 100% usage- to exactly 50% usage.
> Not sure what that means.


Hey, man!
It means one of the P95 workers got an error - the result of the calculation wasn't what it was expected to be. Usually this means that the system is unstable. Are you running P95 on Blend?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> From what i have seen and read on this thread Raja @ Asus did mention they had been tuning the VRM's with the New Bios!!
> 
> So maybe that's why there is a improvement at your end anything that lowers Vcore and allows you to increase your OC is a bonus.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


I think he may be right. I started re-overclocking and I am up to 4.6ghz @ 1.260v


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> No integrity violations.
> 
> Enabled XMP and ran p95 for 1 hour. After about 20 mins it so one of the cores dropped from 100% usage- to exactly 50% usage. Not sure what that means.


so at least one worker quit (checksum did not match). Set it up like this.


And under Advanced menu, make sure Error Checking and Round off are enabled.

Two ways to go forward:

Why enable XMP? Set your bios manually. Especially the XMP - but if you want to use XMP, verify that the SPD is correctly read by the bios. (second to last bios page)
1) assuming teh error was cpu based, up the vcore (or vsa) a notch, or lower the multiplier one notch... eg, start tuning the cpu OC.
2) memory based: make sure you set mem timings to SPD (manually), and voltage to 1.65V (assumption on my part). Mode to Mode 3, Latency to Auto or Nearer. Scroll down to the 3rd timings, set tRRDR to 2 (probably at 0 if this is on auto) see if this is stable.

Edit: I see you have the same exact ram as i do. try setting it to 2133, 8-10-10-28-128-1T, 1.65V. tRDRR = auto. mode 3, latency to auto. at 4.5-4.9 this should be stable (only range i tested).
for the cpu:Try something simple like this


----------



## fatfree

I was having problems (random reboots) with 2400 Mhz memory as well earlier, sadly nobody replied *looking with reproach*









I don't know what exactly brought me stability, but I changed following parameters all at once and it seems to be working well two days since, no matter what I throw at it:
X.M.P.
Rampage Tweak - Mode 3
Latency Boundary - Nearer
CPU Current Capability - 160%
VCCSA Current Capability - 130%
DRAM-AB/CD Current Capability - 130%
VCSSA and VTT both at 1.1 V

Hope it helps someone.

Also I would like to bump my original questions I am still curious about
Quote:


> 2. In Auto mode board sets VTT to ~1.25 Volts, while VCSSA to ~1.16. Also X.M.P. profile says 10-12-12-31-2N-1.65-1.20, is this second voltage VTT?
> 3. Memory write performance is quite lower than read performance - 45 vs 60. Is it fixable?
> 
> And some question related to general functionality.
> a) I am not entirely sure how offset mode is diffirent from manual CPU voltage control. Any pros\cons? What does +\- 0.000x relates to. Please point me to any guide.
> b) What advantages-disadvantages of setting BCLK to 125.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatfree*
> 
> I was having problems (random reboots) with 2400 Mhz memory as well earlier, sadly nobody replied *looking with reproach*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what exactly brought me stability, but I changed following parameters all at once and it seems to be working well two days since, no matter what I throw at it:
> X.M.P.
> Rampage Tweak - Mode 3
> Latency Boundary - Nearer
> CPU Current Capability - 160%
> VCCSA Current Capability - 130%
> DRAM-AB/CD Current Capability - 130%
> VCSSA and VTT both at 1.1 V
> 
> Hope it helps someone.
> 
> Also I would like to bump my original questions I am still curious about


If voltage listed in SPD is VCCSA, it is listed as such, or otherwise it is often VTT on older platforms, not current ones. It kind of depends on how many XMP profiles your sticks have. What I can say is that it is very rarely that ANY board, from ANY manufacturer, listens to that voltage setting with modern platforms. And I have played with many many motherboard for every platform from every brand.

Memory performance...depends on what DIMMs you've got, and which ICs they use. 8 GB sticks could be HYK0, could be MFR, 4 GB sticks could be many things as well.

As to offset questions...that's a complex question, and there are quite a few OC guides for other platforms that cover this info relatively well enough to get a general understanding. I personally feel that for most users, offset mode is too complex, but for 1155/1150, I recommend nothing but offset use.

Part of that has to do with BIOS tuning, so, let's just assume that this board is not fully tuned for OFFSET use since it's more intended for hardcore clockers and benchers, not those that use offset controls.(offset works fine, I'm too lazy to type it all out without getting paid for it).


----------



## fatfree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If voltage listed in SPD is VCCSA, it is listed as such, or otherwise it is often VTT on older platforms, not current ones. It kind of depends on how many XMP profiles your sticks have. What I can say is that it is very rarely that ANY board, from ANY manufacturer, listens to that voltage setting with modern platforms. And I have played with many many motherboard for every platform from every brand.
> 
> Memory performance...depends on what DIMMs you've got, and which ICs they use. 8 GB sticks could be HYK0, could be MFR, 4 GB sticks could be many things as well.


I can dig up X79 Intel datasheet which sets 1.1 Volts as top range for VTT and VCCSA. I looked really really hard everewhery, but there is no general consensus how harmful anything above those values.

Memory sticks are Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400 C10 4X4Gb which seems to be using Samsung chips (not entirely sure).

And thanks for answering, because at some other places it seems Cold War 2.0 already underway.


----------



## Ajay57

fatfree, if your really interested about Overclocking your set up then i would say take your time and read all of this post!!

Its one of the best i feel for learning more about the X79 Platform, i have already tried and used some of the settings here and they really do work!

1, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907

Enjoy and have fun, sorry to see things going Bad to Worse!!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatfree*
> 
> I can dig up X79 Intel datasheet which sets 1.1 Volts as top range for VTT and VCCSA. I looked really really hard everewhery, but there is no general consensus how harmful anything above those values.
> 
> Memory sticks are Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400 C10 4X4Gb which seems to be using Samsung chips (not entirely sure).
> 
> And thanks for answering, because at some other places it seems Cold War 2.0 already underway.


4 GB Samsung should give ~60-63k @ 2400, when tuned right. Look at settings used now, reboot and "load optimized defaults", then enable XMP and make all changes simultaneously. Going from OC settings to having XMP enabled or disabling XMP can make this performance thing appear, as can changing sticks without loading optimized defaults, etc...

you should try 2666 with those sticks though, 125 BCLK, 1.65-1.75V, 10-12-12-31, if those are 9-11-11 sticks. if 10-12-12 2400 sticks, then is probably Hynix, and you'll want to try 11-13-13-35 @ 2666. 2400 with 100 BCLK is not good with every CPU; unstable CPU can affect memory performance.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> so at least one worker quit (checksum did not match). Set it up like this.
> 
> 
> And under Advanced menu, make sure Error Checking and Round off are enabled.
> 
> Two ways to go forward:
> 
> Why enable XMP? Set your bios manually. Especially the XMP - but if you want to use XMP, verify that the SPD is correctly read by the bios. (second to last bios page)
> 1) assuming teh error was cpu based, up the vcore (or vsa) a notch, or lower the multiplier one notch... eg, start tuning the cpu OC.
> 2) memory based: make sure you set mem timings to SPD (manually), and voltage to 1.65V (assumption on my part). Mode to Mode 3, Latency to Auto or Nearer. Scroll down to the 3rd timings, set tRRDR to 2 (probably at 0 if this is on auto) see if this is stable.
> 
> Edit: I see you have the same exact ram as i do. try setting it to 2133, 8-10-10-28-128-1T, 1.65V. tRDRR = auto. mode 3, latency to auto. at 4.5-4.9 this should be stable (only range i tested).
> for the cpu:Try something simple like this


I enable XMP per your request.

During that test, the cpu was running stock, and I only enabled xmp, did the P95 and Integrity test, but only p95 failed.

Ok, will re-run the test with your mem speeds and cpu still at stock. How can I isolate the problem to the cpu or memory? With the cpu and memory at stock, having instability problems is what leads me to beleive it's the board. But, I could be wrong.

I'm using version 27.9


----------



## Haudi

Hi there. I got today my Black. I ve a 3970X and im going to oc. If i set all cores to 45 - windows is booting and cpu-z shows 4.5Ghz. once i start a prime run - the cpu is clocking down to 3.5. 3.7 or something like that. someone an idea what i can do that it runs the 4.5ghz under prime?


----------



## Ajay57

Try checking in the Bios that you have disabled the "INTEL SPEED STEP"

Also double check things before you F10 and save plus Reboot as well!



If you need more help please come back to us on the thread!!

AJ.


----------



## King4x4

That was a lot of pages I went through!

Installed a sound blaster z soundcard with the use of a pcie riser... card is working mighty dandy with my quadfire 290x (which seems the standard pcie saturation test).

Onboard sound is decent (no static) but the soundcard rips it a new one when it comes to powering headsets (and mine is very light 60 ohm me thinks)


----------



## Falcon3

May please join this exclusive club?


----------



## nickolp1974

Are there any guides on using the OC key??


----------



## Gunslinger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> Are there any guides on using the OC key??


I have not seen any, do you have a specific question?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I enable XMP per your request.
> 
> During that test, the cpu was running stock, and I only enabled xmp, did the P95 and Integrity test, but only p95 failed.
> 
> Ok, will re-run the test with your mem speeds and cpu still at stock. How can I isolate the problem to the cpu or memory? With the cpu and memory at stock, having instability problems is what leads me to beleive it's the board. But, I could be wrong.
> 
> I'm using version 27.9


Sorry for the delayed reply... Friday night you know









Yes, 27.9 build 1

Try not enabling XMP (use manual OC .. later. focus on the ram right now). Just set the memory speed (2133) and enter the primary timings manually. If you look at the SPD that the board (bios 602) reads on that ram it is a little off from the settings GSkill recommends (xmp2 is closest). It is always best to manually enter your primary ram timings (and a few 3rd timings sometimes). Isolating the issue has to be a stepwise process. If you know your ram passes memtest (base spd) and manually entering timings and voltage does not cure the problem, we move on to the CPU. Unlikely it is unlikely it's the MB (unlikely, not impossible) What you describe sounds like a sysyem accumulating errors (that's usually ram induced). Ivy-E does not implement the machine-check-error trap Alert (MCEs or WHEA) like 4-core ivys do. So we can't use that flag as a diagnostic.

Best to clr cmos, set your boot devices and other system devices, leave all cpu settings on auto, and work the memory until it is stable. be patient, it takes time. With this MB, I never switch between straps or BCLK without a clr cmos in between.









Once you get the ram stable (work on 2133 first. that 2400 kit is one of the best) you really should try that Offset OC method I posted for ya. Really simple for a solid working 24/7 OC (maybe not the best method for a bench-max OC) which will idle at <1V and add life to your cpu. Frankly, I don't understand why peps defeat 10 years of R&D at Intel leading to speedstep/turbo by using a fixed vcore. Fixed is great for extreme OC benching (I do it my self for that purpose), but IMO - not for 24/7 everyday use.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatfree*
> 
> I was having problems (random reboots) with 2400 Mhz memory as well earlier, sadly nobody replied *looking with reproach*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what exactly brought me stability, but I changed following parameters all at once and it seems to be working well two days since, no matter what I throw at it:
> X.M.P.
> Rampage Tweak - Mode 3
> Latency Boundary - Nearer
> CPU Current Capability - 160%
> VCCSA Current Capability - 130%
> DRAM-AB/CD Current Capability - 130%
> VCSSA and VTT both at 1.1 V
> 
> Hope it helps someone.
> 
> Also I would like to bump my original questions I am still curious about


the ram write performance in AID64 is a prob for me too at 2400... unless I power off teh mobo (eg, switch off your PSU completely) then reboot. Write speed should return to 60K. also, the first tertiary timing has a significant effect. try setting this to 1 or 2 if Auto sets it to 0.

simple offset process: http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/640#post_21674429. Although *this* is for sandy.ivy, the concept and process is the same.


----------



## fatfree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> the ram write performance in AID64 is a prob for me too at 2400... unless I power off teh mobo (eg, switch off your PSU completely) then reboot. Write speed should return to 60K. also, the first tertiary timing has a significant effect. try setting this to 1 or 2 if Auto sets it to 0.
> 
> simple offset process: http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/640#post_21674429. Although *this* is for sandy.ivy, the concept and process is the same.


After 3 days uptime on parameters as stated above and various torture, my PC crashed again. I starting to suspect it is not going to work unless I drasticaly raise VCCSA to X.M.P. specs of 1.20 Volts. I am not going to do that, so rather I decided to go for 1866-2133 with lowest timings I can get. So far setting 1866 leveled read-write performance to 53-53K MB/s.

Honestly, I never had so much trouble with RAM before on various platforms.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Sorry for the delayed reply... Friday night you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, 27.9 build 1
> 
> Try not enabling XMP (use manual OC .. later. focus on the ram right now). Just set the memory speed (2133) and enter the primary timings manually. If you look at the SPD that the board (bios 602) reads on that ram it is a little off from the settings GSkill recommends (xmp2 is closest). It is always best to manually enter your primary ram timings (and a few 3rd timings sometimes). Isolating the issue has to be a stepwise process. If you know your ram passes memtest (base spd) and manually entering timings and voltage does not cure the problem, we move on to the CPU. Unlikely it is unlikely it's the MB (unlikely, not impossible) What you describe sounds like a sysyem accumulating errors (that's usually ram induced). Ivy-E does not implement the machine-check-error trap Alert (MCEs or WHEA) like 4-core ivys do. So we can't use that flag as a diagnostic.
> 
> Best to clr cmos, set your boot devices and other system devices, leave all cpu settings on auto, and work the memory until it is stable. be patient, it takes time. With this MB, I never switch between straps or BCLK without a clr cmos in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you get the ram stable (work on 2133 first. that 2400 kit is one of the best) you really should try that Offset OC method I posted for ya. Really simple for a solid working 24/7 OC (maybe not the best method for a bench-max OC) which will idle at <1V and add life to your cpu. Frankly, I don't understand why peps defeat 10 years of R&D at Intel leading to speedstep/turbo by using a fixed vcore. Fixed is great for extreme OC benching (I do it my self for that purpose), but IMO - not for 24/7 everyday use.


Good advice, but I would add that the problem might be CPU cache, not just memory. remember that system cache uses ringbus, and errors here can cause Windows WHEA errors.

IN CPUs that behave like this, OFFSET mode doesn't work as easily as other chips. Frankly, I think that's where the BIOS needs current limits adjusted...on CPU cache and vccsa, and using offset mode, to me, kind of exposes this (nevermind users with current issues at stock, which uses offset mode)


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Sorry for the delayed reply... Friday night you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, 27.9 build 1
> 
> Try not enabling XMP (use manual OC .. later. focus on the ram right now). Just set the memory speed (2133) and enter the primary timings manually. If you look at the SPD that the board (bios 602) reads on that ram it is a little off from the settings GSkill recommends (xmp2 is closest). It is always best to manually enter your primary ram timings (and a few 3rd timings sometimes). Isolating the issue has to be a stepwise process. If you know your ram passes memtest (base spd) and manually entering timings and voltage does not cure the problem, we move on to the CPU. Unlikely it is unlikely it's the MB (unlikely, not impossible) What you describe sounds like a sysyem accumulating errors (that's usually ram induced). Ivy-E does not implement the machine-check-error trap Alert (MCEs or WHEA) like 4-core ivys do. So we can't use that flag as a diagnostic.
> 
> Best to clr cmos, set your boot devices and other system devices, leave all cpu settings on auto, and work the memory until it is stable. be patient, it takes time. With this MB, I never switch between straps or BCLK without a clr cmos in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you get the ram stable (work on 2133 first. that 2400 kit is one of the best) you really should try that Offset OC method I posted for ya. Really simple for a solid working 24/7 OC (maybe not the best method for a bench-max OC) which will idle at <1V and add life to your cpu. Frankly, I don't understand why peps defeat 10 years of R&D at Intel leading to speedstep/turbo by using a fixed vcore. Fixed is great for extreme OC benching (I do it my self for that purpose), but IMO - not for 24/7 everyday use.


Thanks a lot man. The memory is rock solid at 2133 with your settings. +1









Haven't had much time to tinker with the CPU overclock ever since TitanFall arrived, I've been on that. Hopefully I get some time tomorrow afternoon to tinker with settings. I also need to know what those settings do.







Gonna grab an Overclocking for dummies book.


----------



## Dantrax

I flashed my bios to ver.0602. It seems to be working OK. Anyone have any problems with 0602 that we might have to look out for?


----------



## infinitepc2001

Moved the mem TY =)

Was a late night build, will try your settings tonight

TY
Mike


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

So I was testing some things out tonight and noticed that 1.44v in the bios with high LLC would droop down to 1.424v in cpuz under prime95 load,

*BUT*

With the measuring points on the board itself and using a DMM, it was 1.45v.

Thought you guys would like to know!

Thought the board had massive vdroop until now, guess not.


----------



## Shadowarez

Here is my order from ncix.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Here is my order from ncix.


Welcome to the club


----------



## Shadowarez

Thank you now I got a huge Resource for Finely tuning this board.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> So I was testing some things out tonight and noticed that 1.44v in the bios with high LLC would droop down to 1.424v in cpuz under prime95 load,
> *BUT*
> With the measuring points on the board itself and using a DMM, it was 1.45v.
> Thought you guys would like to know!
> Thought the board had massive vdroop until now, guess not.


Yes - CPUZ reads low on my board too (bios 602). 1.392 = 1.408V DMM etc...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatfree*
> 
> After 3 days uptime on parameters as stated above and various torture, my PC crashed again. I starting to suspect it is not going to work unless I drasticaly raise VCCSA to X.M.P. specs of 1.20 Volts. I am not going to do that, so rather I decided to go for 1866-2133 with lowest timings I can get. So far setting 1866 leveled read-write performance to 53-53K MB/s.
> 
> Honestly, I never had so much trouble with RAM before on various platforms.


it is really helpful of you put your "rig in your sig" so we know what kit you are working with. http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

If you have the gskill 2400 9-11-11-31 ram kit, that is a great kit! 2400, 2666 capable, but for most EVERYTHING we do, with the notable exception of extreme benching, tight timings at a lower frequency can be perfect. try 2133, 8-10-10-28-128-1T. leave vtt on auto (will run 1.05V at this ram speed w/ ivy-e) If that's is a gaming rig, I suggest using offset mode overclocking, and take advantage of this feature. You will not see or feel a difference between [email protected] and [email protected]

2400 (bclk 100) on the r4be with an ivy-e will need 1.2+/-0.05V on VTT and 1.15-1.18V VSA ... IME


----------



## fatfree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> it is really helpful of you put your "rig in your sig" so we know what kit you are working with. http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
> 
> If you have the gskill 2400 9-11-11-31 ram kit, that is a great kit! 2400, 2666 capable, but for most EVERYTHING we do, with the notable exception of extreme benching, tight timings at a lower frequency can be perfect. try 2133, 8-10-10-28-128-1T. leave vtt on auto (will run 1.05V at this ram speed w/ ivy-e) If that's is a gaming rig, I suggest using offset mode overclocking, and take advantage of this feature. You will not see or feel a difference between [email protected] and [email protected]
> 
> 2400 (bclk 100) on the r4be with an ivy-e will need 1.2+/-0.05V on VTT and 1.15-1.18V VSA ... IME


That is the memory I own, two kits: Corsair Dominator PlatinumCMD8GX3M2A2400C10. According to dismantling, chips are Samsung HCH9. Any expirience with it?

Don't you think those voltages will cause CPU degradation overtime if left 24/7?

Also I want to add that whenever I set frequency higher than 1866, write performance dips by 1/3 of read performance, e.g. 54 MB/s read vs 38 MB/s write, while at 1866 they are even. Strange stuff.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatfree*
> 
> That is the memory I own, two kits: Corsair Dominator PlatinumCMD8GX3M2A2400C10. According to dismantling, chips are Samsung HCH9. Any expirience with it?
> 
> *Don't you think those voltages* will cause CPU degradation overtime if left 24/7?
> 
> Also I want to add that whenever I set frequency higher than 1866, write performance dips by 1/3 of read performance, e.g. 54 MB/s read vs 38 MB/s write, while at 1866 they are even. Strange stuff.


First - are you using an unmatched set of ram? eg, Two 8GB kits? either way, that corsair unmatched ram should do 2133 with 9-11-10-30 (or 28)-160-1T at 1,65V. You have to change the memory timings manually!
What voltages are you referring to??
What do you intend to do with your rig? Gaming?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> First - are you using an unmatched set of ram? eg, Two 8GB kits? either way, that corsair unmatched ram should do 2133 with 9-11-10-30 (or 28)-160-1T at 1,65V. You have to change the memory timings manually!
> What voltages are you referring to??
> What do you intend to do with your rig? Gaming?


9-11-11- 2400 MHz HCH9

=

2133 Mhz 9-11-10-27 @ 1.5V, iirc.

MODE3, 9-11-10-27-1t, NEARER, 7-171-8320-16-8-40-8-6-8

Most of the Dominator Platinum Samsung sticks can do that speed/timings. The actual 2133 MHz 1.5V sticks are these Samsung, while 1.65V 2133 C9 Platinums are Hynix-based. The Samsung 2133 will do 2666 @ 1.65~1.7V.


----------



## fatfree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> First - are you using an unmatched set of ram? eg, Two 8GB kits? either way, that corsair unmatched ram should do 2133 with 9-11-10-30 (or 28)-160-1T at 1,65V. You have to change the memory timings manually!
> What voltages are you referring to??
> What do you intend to do with your rig? Gaming?


Thats right, two kits. However I was using X.M.P only initially, then only manual mode, which still caused instability. I will try those settings, thanks!
I was referring VTT and VCSSA past 1.15 Volts.
Yeah, gaming rig plus folding when idle.


----------



## skupples

Can confirm software voltage misreads as well. DMM tells the truth!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatfree*
> 
> Thats right, two kits. However I was using X.M.P only initially, then only manual mode, which still caused instability. I will try those settings, thanks!
> I was referring VTT and VCSSA past 1.15 Volts.
> Yeah, gaming rig plus folding when idle.


Try far LESS than what auto sets. auto sets usually 1.25 for VTT and VCCSA, but I can run with 1.05V VTT and 0.850V VCCSA. Stock VCCSA is 0.800~0.950V, so you should aim for that region, not any higher.

I run 2666 on Dominator Platinums with these voltages:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Can confirm software voltage misreads as well. DMM tells the truth!


The read points are there for a reason....


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*


same voltage for most of settings. But if I only overclock the CPU to 4.5, vcore=1.24 would be sufficient.
Overclock both CPU and RAM, vcore needs to go up to 1.275v. Anyone knows the reasons behind this?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 9-11-11- 2400 MHz HCH9
> =
> 2133 Mhz 9-11-10-27 @ 1.5V, iirc.
> MODE3, 9-11-10-27-1t, NEARER, 7-171-8320-16-8-40-8-6-8
> Most of the Dominator Platinum Samsung sticks can do that speed/timings. The actual 2133 MHz 1.5V sticks are these Samsung, while 1.65V 2133 C9 Platinums are Hynix-based. The Samsung 2133 will do 2666 @ 1.65~1.7V.


----------



## Falcon3

Will this do ?


----------



## doctakedooty

So got my black edition in last week and finally got the water cooling replied from my r4e to the black edition. I know this has been answered I pretty much plugged in my same settings from my R4E and can't seem to get past irql not less then or equal to constant bsod. Ram is corsair dominator gt 2133 quad channel set 9-11-10-27 @ 1.5v also if anyone knows how far these can overclock and timings to use


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So got my black edition in last week and finally got the water cooling replied from my r4e to the black edition. I know this has been answered I pretty much plugged in my same settings from my R4E and can't seem to get past irql not less then or equal to constant bsod. Ram is corsair dominator gt 2133 quad channel set 9-11-10-27 @ 1.5v also if anyone knows how far these can overclock and timings to use


BCLK 125+

2666-2800, 1.65V- 1.75V

MODE3-10-12-12-31-1t-NEARER-214-10400-20-10-50-10-7-9

or try the profile in BIOS?


----------



## CyBorg807

So been playing around with my OC for a the last couple days in my spare time, attempting to get 4.6GHz running a 4930K and 4x4GB sticks of Corsair Dominator Platinum using the XMP profile 2400MHz 9-11-11-30-2T at 1.65V. so far I managed to get 5 hours of P95 running 90% ram usage stable before I get an error on at least one thread, current Vcore is at 1.395V, LLC is set to high which gives me about 1.392V under full load according to GPUz. I tried Ultra High LLC but the reported Vcore was 1.424V under load so I guess I am sticking with High.

As of my last P95 90%ram overnight run my core temps topped out at 84C, I was aiming to keep them under 85C so I am near my limit, currently using an H100i. How am I doing so far guys? I am thinking of just starting fresh and doing an offset OC instead and possibly dropping down to 4.5GHz if temps get to high. Is 4.5GHz decent for under 1.4V? would I be better off with slower ram?


----------



## Shadowarez

i tried fixing my sig but it wont find the proper ram, i have Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD32GX3M4A2400C10 32GB 4X8GB DDR3-2400 x2 system isnt seeing all ram properly so im down to 32gb


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> i tried fixing my sig but it wont find the proper ram, i have Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD32GX3M4A2400C10 32GB 4X8GB DDR3-2400 x2 system isnt seeing all ram properly so im down to 32gb


If you can't find it, you can add it.
That's what I did with couple of items on my new rig (like the norprene tube).


----------



## Errorist66

After a week-end of hard work and fun I have my system back up with the XSPC water block for the mosfet and chipset on my R4BE. added an extra 240 rad and a second pump in the loop. Assumption is that it should be easier to get stable overclock at higher settings. Also added a second GTX 780 TI so lots of fun to come.
One question I have is does the R4BE detect the lower temperature or it is simply a case of lower temp will protect better?

Still some cleanup to do on the PCI-E power but I just got impatient.


----------



## fishingfanatic

OK, I thought I had submitted something already, so here's something in case I didn't.




If that's nfg, let me know, I can submit something else like a 3DMark score.

FF


----------



## JottaD

Here is my BE mobo with a 780 Ti classy sli



Can I join the club?


----------



## doctakedooty

This is my R4BE finally installed running tri sli 780Ti


----------



## Errorist66

Ia there a trick for the R4BE to pick up the pulse from the EK-DDC pump tach signal? it's a 3 pin fan connector with only 1 wire for the rpm of the pump. Or should I assume that the signal from the pump is DOA?


----------



## axiumone

Plug it into any of the fan lead on the motherboard and see if it gives you a signal. I was able to get an rpm reading from my koolance d5 this way.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Plug it into any of the fan lead on the motherboard and see if it gives you a signal. I was able to get an rpm reading from my koolance d5 this way.


The MB has a cpu OPT fan header and that is used for water pumps or fan. With this board that header is controlled by the CPU fan, so if you want the cpu fan to control the pump. It will be done automatically
, all you have to do is go into al suite 3 and set the speed of the fan. If you which to control the pump yourself you can put it on any one of the chassis fan header. The other headers are OPT fan header that can only be controlled by going into the bios.


----------



## cosmomobay

Couple day ago I had a problem where the MB wasn't booting up my #1 video card. I had the #1 PCI orange led lite and the red video boot led light on. So I thought it was a dead card. The following day I start the computer and the video card booted, red led was out but now I had #1 and # 3 PCI orange led light on and the red boot device led light on. The computer booted up find. So I realize I had a corrupted bios.

I switch to the #2 bios, the boot device led went out, but the #1 and #3 PCI led stayed on, computer boot up fine. I did a USB bios recovery on #1 bios, restart the computer, boot device led went out, but the 2 PCI led's stayed on, so this happen's with both bios's. Now after two days the #1 bios led is back on and the computer work's fine.

My question is , can someone check their MB and tell me if any of your PCI led lights are on.

Asus tech support says if the computer is working, I am good to go and leaving it alone. I am still within my return time with Microcenter and I also have the extended warranty on it.


----------



## Mega Man

welcome to all !!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Plug it into any of the fan lead on the motherboard and see if it gives you a signal. I was able to get an rpm reading from my koolance d5 this way.
> 
> 
> 
> The MB has a cpu OPT fan header and that is used for water pumps or fan. With this board that header is controlled by the CPU fan, so if you want the cpu fan to control the pump. It will be done automatically
> , all you have to do is go into al suite 3 and set the speed of the fan. If you which to control the pump yourself you can put it on any one of the chassis fan header. The other headers are OPT fan header that can only be controlled by going into the bios.
Click to expand...

you cant control any fan with a rpm signal cable. you can only control fans via pwm ( on a compatible header ) or voltage,


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome to all !!!!
> you cant control any fan with a rpm signal cable. you can only control fans via pwm ( on a compatible header ) or voltage,


Yes, I know that. A three pin fan plug can only be control by voltage, while a four pin fan can be control by pwm ie rpm. If the pump comes with a four pin plug then it can be control by pwm, if it is a 3 pin then it will be voltage.

If it comes with a 3 pin, you can depin the 3 pin plug, use a 4 pin plug and install the rpm signal wire on the pwm hole in the plug , now it will be control by pwm.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome to all !!!!
> you cant control any fan with a rpm signal cable. you can only control fans via pwm ( on a compatible header ) or voltage,
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I know that. A three pin fan plug can only be control by voltage, while a four pin fan can be control by pwm ie rpm. If the pump comes with a four pin plug then it can be control by pwm, if it is a 3 pin then it will be voltage.
> 
> If it comes with a 3 pin, you can depin the 3 pin plug, use a 4 pin plug and install the rpm signal wire on the pwm hole in the plug , now it will be control by pwm.
Click to expand...

i think you need to do some more research on pwm

PWM requires a board to interpret the signal and manage the speed of the fan ( this is a simplified explanation )

the RPM signal wire has NO PURPOSE like you explained

the PWM signal goes from the mobo/fan controller to the fan

the RPM signal goes from the fan to the mobo/fan controller

both are OUTPUTS, neither have the ability to interpret signals for that you need an INPUT !!

RPM signal wires only tell a device what RPMS the fans are running at

PWM wires only take in a signal for said processor to interpret


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome to all !!!!
> you cant control any fan with a rpm signal cable. you can only control fans via pwm ( on a compatible header ) or voltage,
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I know that. A three pin fan plug can only be control by voltage, while a four pin fan can be control by pwm ie rpm. If the pump comes with a four pin plug then it can be control by pwm, if it is a 3 pin then it will be voltage.
> 
> *If it comes with a 3 pin, you can depin the 3 pin plug, use a 4 pin plug and install the rpm signal wire on the pwm hole in the plug , now it will be control by pwm*.
Click to expand...

This is ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT under any circumstances.

Mega Man breaks it down pretty well.

I could go into a lot of detail, but it would surely be lost until you're better versed on PWM in general, and the Intel standard as used in PCs in particular.

Darlene


----------



## Errorist66

Can the R4BE read the speed from a fan connector with only 1 wire connected or does it expect some load on the first 2 pins? I added an EK-DDC pump to my system and the pump RPM always display 0. The pump is running fine taking power from a molex. I switch the pin around to get the pump on 7V (12V was noisy). Or does this mean the tachometer on the pump is DOA?

Thanks for any insight on this.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Can the R4BE read the speed from a fan connector with only 1 wire connected or does it expect some load on the first 2 pins? I added an EK-DDC pump to my system and the pump RPM always display 0. The pump is running fine taking power from a molex. I switch the pin around to get the pump on 7V (12V was noisy). Or does this mean the tachometer on the pump is DOA?
> 
> Thanks for any insight on this.


works fine with just RPM...too many Corsair AIO users to worry about that.


----------



## bsfiosco

Hi guys,

This thread looks like a wealth of knowledge and I will make sure to read through it when I have time so I am sorry if my question has already been asked somewhere in the 6000 posts. I'd appreciate it if you guys could help me out here as I am on a timeline and need to return my RMA'd PSU and CPU by the end of the week.

First off I detailed the issues I am experiencing with my current RIVF board here:
Rampage IV Formula - lots of problems

To summarize that, my RIVF board was not stable and now won't stay on for more than 10-30 seconds but when I get into the BIOS it does recognize the CPU and RAM. I did replace the CPU and PSU and also swapped around the RAM with same results. Keep in mind this did run relatively smoothly for about 10 months before it got really bad and finally because unusable.

So now I was lucky enough to get a full refund from the vendor for my RIVF so I just need to take apart my build and send it in. However my choice of available LGA 2011 motherboards is limited as X99 is on the horizon. I am considering the R4BE as a replacement.

With the refund for the RIVF I can get the R4BE for a difference of $165 which would be acceptable cost for me to get my machine back up and running. If I need new RAM thats on the QVL I'm looking at another $180 for G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 16GB (F3-17000CL9Q-16GBZH) or $449 for Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (CMD32GX3M4A2133C9).

First question:

Can any of you guys who have had the R4BE attest to your experience with it? Is it a lot more stable then the RIVF or RIVE? I've heard some people say it's better but has some issues with perhaps an immature bios. Any feedback you guys can give me on how happy you are with the R4BE would be great.

Second question:

My RIVF was using a i7-3930K and Corsair Dominator GT 16GB Quad Channel DDR3 2133 MHz (CMT16GX3M4X2133C9). I've heard that the i7-3930K should be okay on this motherboard. The RAM however is not on the QVL so I suspect that I might need to order new memory. Does anyone have a R4BE with an i7-3930K and that RAM installed or think I'll have any issues if I try to use them with the board?

Thanks,

Bryan


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think you need to do some more research on pwm
> 
> PWM requires a board to interpret the signal and manage the speed of the fan ( this is a simplified explanation )
> 
> the RPM signal wire has NO PURPOSE like you explained
> 
> the PWM signal goes from the mobo/fan controller to the fan
> 
> the RPM signal goes from the fan to the mobo/fan controller
> 
> both are OUTPUTS, neither have the ability to interpret signals for that you need an INPUT !!
> 
> RPM signal wires only tell a device what RPMS the fans are running at
> 
> PWM wires only take in a signal for said processor to interpret


I guess I had it all backwards, thanks for the clarity.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> works fine with just RPM...too many Corsair AIO users to worry about that.


So I guess the tachometer is faulty on the pump. I'll try it again with the pump at 12V. how much do I feel like draining this thing again after doing all the testing and bleeding. just added the pump, chipset and mosfet block, 2 RAD and a second WB for SLI gtx 780TI.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Couple day ago I had a problem where the MB wasn't booting up my #1 video card. I had the #1 PCI orange led lite and the red video boot led light on. So I thought it was a dead card. The following day I start the computer and the video card booted, red led was out but now I had #1 and # 3 PCI orange led light on and the red boot device led light on. The computer booted up find. So I realize I had a corrupted bios.
> 
> I switch to the #2 bios, the boot device led went out, but the #1 and #3 PCI led stayed on, computer boot up fine. I did a USB bios recovery on #1 bios, restart the computer, boot device led went out, but the 2 PCI led's stayed on, so this happen's with both bios's. Now after two days the #1 bios led is back on and the computer work's fine.
> 
> My question is , can someone check their MB and tell me if any of your PCI led lights are on.
> 
> Asus tech support says if the computer is working, I am good to go and leaving it alone. I am still within my return time with Microcenter and I also have the extended warranty on it.


Sorry for my own bump, but can someone answer this for me.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Sorry for my own bump, but can someone answer this for me.


Your VGA or the board has crap on the PCIe finger or slot, or maybe you are not giving enough power to the system.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Can the R4BE read the speed from a fan connector with only 1 wire connected or does it expect some load on the first 2 pins? I added an EK-DDC pump to my system and the pump RPM always display 0. The pump is running fine taking power from a molex. I switch the pin around to get the pump on 7V (12V was noisy). Or does this mean the tachometer on the pump is DOA?
> 
> Thanks for any insight on this.


You only need the one tach wire to read rpm, as long as the pump/fan runs from the same PSU as the device to read/display the RPM does.

The tach circuit in the pump, or fan, essentially is just a mechanism, either optical or electronic/magnetic, that electrically connects the tach wire to the ground wire twice every revolution.

The device being used to "read" the tach signal, (fan controller display or mobo) has an internal resistor that pulls the tach wire up to some positive voltage level, usually 5V or 3.3V, and then counts the number of times the voltage levels drops to near 0V in a given time period, indicating that the tach wire connects to ground.

When you set a pump to run at 7V, by using the 5V wire for gnd, and the 12V wire for +, then the tach wire only connects to the 5V line, and not ground as it was supposed to.

Depending on the circuitry of whatever is "reading" the tach wire, it may or may not, and may not is far more likely, be able to derive an rpm value from the non standard tach signal input level.

The pump at 12V should display fine.

Darlene


----------



## JottaD

a few update on my BE


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You only need the one tach wire to read rpm, *as long as the pump/fan runs from the same PSU* as the device to read/display the RPM does.
> The tach circuit in the pump, or fan, essentially is just a mechanism, either optical or electronic/magnetic, that electrically connects the tach wire to the ground wire twice every revolution.
> The device being used to "read" the tach signal, (fan controller display or mobo) has an internal resistor that pulls the tach wire up to some positive voltage level, usually 5V or 3.3V, and then counts the number of times the voltage levels drops to near 0V in a given time period, indicating that the tach wire connects to ground.
> When you set a pump to run at 7V, by using the 5V wire for gnd, and the 12V wire for +, then the tach wire only connects to the 5V line, and not ground as it was supposed to.
> Depending on the circuitry of whatever is "reading" the tach wire, it may or may not, and may not is far more likely, be able to derive an rpm value from the non standard tach signal input level.
> The pump at 12V should display fine.
> Darlene


Different ground potentials?

What do you think about using 2 PSUs in general... and the GP issue?


----------



## Mydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> a few update on my BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good so far








Are you using the same tubes I am, Tygon?


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mydog*
> 
> Looking good so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using the same tubes I am, Tygon?


nop









this one :
TUBE Primo Chill Primo Flex Onyx Black 12.7 mm (1/2 ") / 19.1 mm (3/4")


----------



## TobbbeSWE

Hi guys i come here to join the club and gain some oc experience!









*Validation*

http://valid.canardpc.com/iwv817

*Album of my build on Facebook.* High resolution pics.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.271859722982394&type=1

*Buildlog on a Swedish forum called Sweclockers*

http://www.sweclockers.com/forum/143-projektloggar/1285813-540-dark-now-h2o-akrylic/#post14471253


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Raja - I'm using a simple offset OC (offset + turbo, bclk =100) and when switching from 45x to 46x with only changing offset and turbo voltages the MB does a reset (clock gen reset is enabled)... but this reset does not occur when going from 46x to 47x or 48x?
For example with LLC High:
45x all cores
offset = +5mV, Turbo capped at +8mV (which = 1.28V loaded)
Change to:
46x all cores
offset = +5mV, Turbo capped at +24mV (= 1.31V loaded. Yes, I probably could take 45x to negative offset)
I get a cold restart/post
Doing the same from there up through 49x, the MB does not restart, just loads the setting and does a warm re-post

Anyone know what's being triggered on going from 45x to 46x (or above)? All the above clocks are stable to R15 and at least 30min p95 with 5min/FFT (and gaming... etc)


----------



## TobbbeSWE

First question. I hawe seven PWN fans i my rig.

I'm currently using all Chassi fan 4 pin connetions.
Both Cpu 4 pin connections + two of the three OPT Chassi fan 4 pin headers.

Chassi fan 1 - Fan 1
Chassi fan 2 - Fan 2
Chassi fan 3 - Fan 3

CPU Fan - Fan 4
CPU OPT Fan - Fan 5

OPT Chassi fan 1 - Fan 6
OPT Chassi fan 2 - Fan 7

I get RPM readings from all Chassi fan and CPU headers but with the *OPT Chassi* fan headers i doesn't read my rpm values.
I'm have tested multiple programs and software monitors.

Also why does these 3 headers not support the same customization like the three main chassi fan headers?
I have read the manual and looked in my bios. I cant find any good explanation of the values.
Does the pre set profiles, duty mode and "user mode" follow the motherboards chassi temprature?

I want them to follow CPU temps or at least have a pretty aggressive profile.
I cant go for the best setting when i dont know my fans Rpm values.

Please help me with this!









EDIT

Looks like the only time bios can read RPM of the OPT Chassi fan headers is when DUTY mode is enabled. 90% showed me 900RPM of my 1000RPM fans.
But when ever i switched over to User mode or Profile mode. The mobo doesn't recognize that there are fans connected.

This must be a faulty Bios issiue. Asus cant seriously think that it should be this way.
Best would be if they just made all 4pin headers normal *Chassi fan 1-6* instead becuse they work fine! Especially with the customization part.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You only need the one tach wire to read rpm, as long as the pump/fan runs from the same PSU as the device to read/display the RPM does.
> 
> The tach circuit in the pump, or fan, essentially is just a mechanism, either optical or electronic/magnetic, that electrically connects the tach wire to the ground wire twice every revolution.
> 
> The device being used to "read" the tach signal, (fan controller display or mobo) has an internal resistor that pulls the tach wire up to some positive voltage level, usually 5V or 3.3V, and then counts the number of times the voltage levels drops to near 0V in a given time period, indicating that the tach wire connects to ground.
> 
> When you set a pump to run at 7V, by using the 5V wire for gnd, and the 12V wire for +, then the tach wire only connects to the 5V line, and not ground as it was supposed to.
> 
> Depending on the circuitry of whatever is "reading" the tach wire, it may or may not, and may not is far more likely, be able to derive an rpm value from the non standard tach signal input level.
> 
> The pump at 12V should display fine.
> 
> Darlene


Confirming that Darlene is correct. 4731 rpm on the pump!







And since I moved the pump to the back of the case the noise is not that audible anymore. Makes a lot of sense. feeling a but embarrassed as I forgot all my electronic class since university. All I remeber is that of your skin stick to the mosfet when you touch it you need a bigger one


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Different ground potentials?
> 
> What do you think about using 2 PSUs in general... and the GP issue?


I used a booster X5 on my old system to get an extra 450W into the system and the power cord didn't have a ground. The X5 is powering up from a molex connector from the first PSU and uses it as a ground reference.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobbbeSWE*
> 
> EDIT
> 
> Looks like the only time bios can read RPM of the OPT Chassi fan headers is when DUTY mode is enabled. 90% showed me 900RPM of my 1000RPM fans.
> But when ever i switched over to User mode or Profile mode. The mobo doesn't recognize that there are fans connected.
> 
> This must be a faulty Bios issiue. Asus cant seriously think that it should be this way.
> Best would be if they just made all 4pin headers normal *Chassi fan 1-6* instead becuse they work fine! Especially with the customization part.


ASUS fan control is not the most optimal, sure. There are dual SuperI/O chips that control the fans, hence the two different fan "domains". This seems more a controller limitation rather than by ASUS choice, as I kind of feel they have some of the most advanced system fan headers. Which is an odd thing to be the best at, but it is what it is. Otherwise, you have like an aquaero built into the motherboard, and I don't think all users need to pay for this just yet.


----------



## doctakedooty

So my rampage iv black edition I havent been able to overclock that well hope to get some help. My Rampage IV Extreme did fine at 1.4 v but my black edition anything over 1.3 volts it shuts down under load. Also I set my gaming clock at 1.23v which is what my chip will do at 4.5ghz vtt and vccsa at 1.1 for 2133 ram pll 1.7 ram 1.5v llc high 120% and I keep getting bsod irql not less or equal to or a bsod wvma or something error. Stock runs good. I know the r4be is more tuning then the r4e but hopefully the more experienced with this board can give me insight.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> llc high 120%


That's the problem. 120% is too low. Try 160%. Remember that 140% is "stock".


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobbbeSWE*
> 
> First question. I hawe seven PWN fans i my rig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently using all Chassi fan 4 pin connetions.
> Both Cpu 4 pin connections + two of the three OPT Chassi fan 4 pin headers.
> 
> Chassi fan 1 - Fan 1
> Chassi fan 2 - Fan 2
> Chassi fan 3 - Fan 3
> 
> CPU Fan - Fan 4
> CPU OPT Fan - Fan 5
> 
> OPT Chassi fan 1 - Fan 6
> OPT Chassi fan 2 - Fan 7
> 
> I get RPM readings from all Chassi fan and CPU headers but with the *OPT Chassi* fan headers i doesn't read my rpm values.
> I'm have tested multiple programs and software monitors.
> 
> Also why does these 3 headers not support the same customization like the three main chassi fan headers?
> I have read the manual and looked in my bios. I cant find any good explanation of the values.
> Does the pre set profiles, duty mode and "user mode" follow the motherboards chassi temprature?
> 
> I want them to follow CPU temps or at least have a pretty aggressive profile.
> I cant go for the best setting when i dont know my fans Rpm values.
> 
> Please help me with this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT
> 
> Looks like the only time bios can read RPM of the OPT Chassi fan headers is when DUTY mode is enabled. 90% showed me 900RPM of my 1000RPM fans.
> But when ever i switched over to User mode or Profile mode. The mobo doesn't recognize that there are fans connected.
> 
> This must be a faulty Bios issiue. Asus cant seriously think that it should be this way.
> Best would be if they just made all 4pin headers normal *Chassi fan 1-6* instead becuse they work fine! Especially with the customization part
> 
> 
> .


fyi just because they are 4 pin headers does not mean it is a pwm header
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Different ground potentials?
> 
> What do you think about using 2 PSUs in general... and the GP issue?
> 
> 
> 
> I used a booster X5 on my old system to get an extra 450W into the system and the power cord didn't have a ground. The X5 is powering up from a molex connector from the first PSU and uses it as a ground reference.
Click to expand...

all psus have ground ( to the pc ) they are just neutrals,on the high voltage side in the us in 99.99% of houses the ground plug just goes to the neutral buss bar anyway.

2 psus have its purpose depends on the user, i have read it helps to have a common gound ( connect at least one ground on one psu to the other psu ( also a ground ) which in my head seems logical but i have not had time to ask my friends who know this stuff if it is a good idea


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Raja - I'm using a simple offset OC (offset + turbo, bclk =100) and when switching from 45x to 46x with only changing offset and turbo voltages the MB does a reset (clock gen reset is enabled)... but this reset does not occur when going from 46x to 47x or 48x?
> For example with LLC High:
> 45x all cores
> offset = +5mV, Turbo capped at +8mV (which = 1.28V loaded)
> Change to:
> 46x all cores
> offset = +5mV, Turbo capped at +24mV (= 1.31V loaded. Yes, I probably could take 45x to negative offset)
> I get a cold restart/post
> Doing the same from there up through 49x, the MB does not restart, just loads the setting and does a warm re-post
> 
> Anyone know what's being triggered on going from 45x to 46x (or above)? All the above clocks are stable to R15 and at least 30min p95 with 5min/FFT (and gaming... etc)


Nothing you need to worry about- just a trick we had to incorporate in the past for some CPUs that would not POST consistently over 45X.


----------



## Jpmboy

Thanks for the reply. Wasn't worried... curious. correction - 4.5 = 1.24 loaded (neg offset) 4.6=1.28 loaded (p95)


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fyi just because they are 4 pin headers does not mean it is a pwm header
> all psus have ground ( to the pc ) they are just neutrals,on the high voltage side in the us in 99.99% of houses the ground plug just goes to the neutral buss bar anyway.
> 
> 2 psus have its purpose depends on the user, i have read it helps to have a common gound ( connect at least one ground on one psu to the other psu ( also a ground ) which in my head seems logical but i have not had time to ask my friends who know this stuff if it is a good idea


I've been running 2 PSUs for quite some time. This seems to be an effect that gets little attention. There is a ground potential difference (nothing to do with the common "house ground"). It seems that if one PSU is an outboard - not physically attached to the chassis - the effect is magnified. attaching the two PSUs with a wire helps to reduce the potential difference.

Would love to hear what your EE buddies say/know!


----------



## TobbbeSWE

Hi guys!

What is considerd to be Safe voltage on VCCSA? On Auto mode i read in AI Suite that when stresstesting it is on 1.025volt.

It will help me getting higher clocks stable on high BCKL overklocking right?


----------



## JottaD

one more teaser


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Anybody know where I can find 5mm OD nickel plated copper tubing?

I need it to make a new pipe for the VRM heatsink.

If not, I'll just use regular copper. :-/


----------



## Mydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> one more teaser


Looking good, I've never done a build in an inverted case but it's so nice to see the GPU-blocks and not just the back side of the GPU.


----------



## Kranik

Question for you JottaD, does the back of your first card (the one closest to the CPU) rest on the RAM clips? Mine does and I'm wondering if I'm the only one.


----------



## fishingfanatic

I just looked at mine and it has about 1/8" of space on this one.

That's the space between the card and the ram clips

FF


----------



## USFORCES

Mine is slowly getting blacker







Green hoses are going next!


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> I just looked at mine and it has about 1/8" of space on this one.
> 
> That's the space between the card and the ram clips
> 
> FF


Are you running reverse ATX or just standard? Mine even rubs up on the RAM clips when the motherboard is horizontal, but not when standard.I'll likely need to examine the card again.


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Question for you JottaD, does the back of your first card (the one closest to the CPU) rest on the RAM clips? Mine does and I'm wondering if I'm the only one.


I have a small gap of 3 mm


----------



## fishingfanatic

My apologies. I am just running the standard layout.

















Love the Oak background btw.

Got a bunch of woodworking tools that r rusting rather nicely in my shop since they now give me headaches with the sound.



Made that with door frame scraps.

I had been considering a wooden case, but now I can't even plane a piece of wood without the headaches starting.

At least I get to c some awesome cases though!!! I t gives me ideas for modding mine. Lately I've been able to do the odd thing a bit at a time so a 2 day project gets a

little longer. The trick is not to hae too many on the go at the same time. Lack of space....lol









FF


----------



## fishingfanatic

I still have a space when the board is horizontal.









Not too sure about reverse with the card above the chips though.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> I have a small gap of 3 mm


Yea my card definitely has some amount of warping then. I wonder if that can be fixed...Thanks for the responses guys, +Rep to you both!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mzain109*
> 
> Add me also in the owner's list.plz
> 
> Proof..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Added Added Added!!!!!! Welcome all such an insurge of new owners since I dissapeared for a week !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mydog*
> 
> Almost finished here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIVBE and 2x 780 Ti Classy, dual loop with 360x60mm and 280x60mm radds in each loop
> 
> YES I like the QDC's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome to ze club!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amra88*
> 
> Well, one more subscription!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now running:
> 4930K 4.6 gHz (set in BIOS, C-states auto)
> Vcore: 1.39V, LLC on High
> VCCSA: 1.35V, LLC on High, VCCSA frequency 450Hz
> 64GB RAM 2133 CL 11, CR 2
> 
> I've also noticed a reduction in the voltages needed for stability with the last BIOS update! Will post some pics of the rig soon, now it's a mess from tubes because originally I didn't figure that EK blocks could do parallel flow without a Y connector, hehehe... Probably will fix that this weekend!


I'm Sooo envious of you right now however, curious if 1.35v is considered to high or not for VCCSA I haven't messed w/ VCCSA frequency yet only the CPU curious which helps better if anyone elaborates on that.

Other than that you have a nice chip welcome!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mah build


Welcome welcome hope your RAM issues were fixed if not let us know! I've been gaining tons of exp on the side thanks to the teachings of others









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falcon3*
> 
> May please join this exclusive club?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yup Yup Yup, we're glad to have ya ^^ welcome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Here is my order from ncix.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Glad to see more popping up in here ,







welcome !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> OK, I thought I had submitted something already, so here's something in case I didn't.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that's nfg, let me know, I can submit something else like a 3DMark score.
> 
> FF


No worries I've just been overtime at work welcome welcome welcome !








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> Here is my BE mobo with a 780 Ti classy sli
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I join the club?


Yes u may~







welcome~ and congrats on your purchase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> This is my R4BE finally installed running tri sli 780Ti
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


NIce! how you like it so far? and welcome!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobbbeSWE*
> 
> Hi guys i come here to join the club and gain some oc experience!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Validation*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/iwv817
> 
> *Album of my build on Facebook.* High resolution pics.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.271859722982394&type=1
> 
> *Buildlog on a Swedish forum called Sweclockers*
> 
> http://www.sweclockers.com/forum/143-projektloggar/1285813-540-dark-now-h2o-akrylic/#post14471253
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome! Welcome welcome!!

Been doing a large project with our company networks so haven't had time to really get on here much. Architecture, planning, security etc. Glad to see new faces, and more updates as well. Hoping to see a new bios later.

As for me Stability finally died so I dropped my CPU to 4.3 for the meantime @ 2133 and 1.2v I didn't think to go to 1.3 vcssa though, so there are still things to try I guess. If my CPU was able to go higher @ 32gb vs 64 I'd drop down but after testing a few times it gets the same results so not sure whats up. Either way hasn't really had to much of a problem though if I"m playing a game and streaming for a while and to many browser tabs open I do BSOD.

Anywhoo hope everyone's been well!


----------



## fishingfanatic

These are great boards and I love all of the extras that make it worth while!!!

Now I need help. Pretty new to ocing though I got it to 4.7, and sometimes 4.8. Can't seem to get any higher.

Not a lot of adjustments.

llc med-high mem at 1866. It won't run on stock at 2133 or 2400 mhz but with XMP.

Speed step is off, turbo on. Manual voltage of 1.395-1.4 for 4.7 ghz. Sync all cores ... There must be something I'm not aware of or haven't learned yet.

Guess I'll start reading some posts.

Thanks for the welcome and welcome to everyone else as well !









FF


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> These are great boards and I love all of the extras that make it worth while!!!
> 
> Now I need help. Pretty new to ocing though I got it to 4.7, and sometimes 4.8. Can't seem to get any higher.
> 
> Not a lot of adjustments.
> 
> llc med-high mem at 1866. It won't run on stock at 2133 or 2400 mhz but with XMP.
> 
> Speed step is off, turbo on. Manual voltage of 1.395-1.4 for 4.7 ghz. Sync all cores ... There must be something I'm not aware of or haven't learned yet.
> 
> Guess I'll start reading some posts.
> 
> Thanks for the welcome and welcome to everyone else as well !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FF


Try reading this to give you some good ideas and how to OC your PC set up!!!

1, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907

I hope it helps you!!

AJ.


----------



## USFORCES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Try reading this to give you some good ideas and how to OC your PC set up!!!
> 
> 1, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907
> 
> I hope it helps you!!
> 
> AJ.


Couldn't help but notice everyone in that forum uses movie stars as there avatar


----------



## UAEGANGSTER111

Finally up and running. The dark rock pro 3 is a great cooler and it is very quite.


----------



## szeged

huge cooler is covering up the sexy board


----------



## UAEGANGSTER111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> huge cooler is covering up the sexy board


Hey as long as it has great performance and less maintenance


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UAEGANGSTER111*
> 
> Hey as long as it has great performance and less maintenance


true true







i wish watercooling was as easy as air sometimes







...sorry i mean all the time.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> These are great boards and I love all of the extras that make it worth while!!!
> Now I need help. Pretty new to ocing though I got it to 4.7, and sometimes 4.8. Can't seem to get any higher.
> Not a lot of adjustments.
> llc med-high mem at 1866. It won't run on stock at 2133 or 2400 mhz but with XMP.
> Speed step is off, turbo on. Manual voltage of 1.395-1.4 for 4.7 ghz. Sync all cores ... There must be something I'm not aware of or haven't learned yet.
> Guess I'll start reading some posts.
> Thanks for the welcome and welcome to everyone else as well !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FF


you really need to take your time and be patient... that cpu is taking a beating.


----------



## Kranik

Question for those of you that reused the I/O Cover of the stock heat sink: how did you remove the heat pipe? I'm trying to figure it out but nothing I've tried seems to be working.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Question for those of you that reused the I/O Cover of the stock heat sink: how did you remove the heat pipe? I'm trying to figure it out but nothing I've tried seems to be working.


Hear it up til it breaks loose. Use a propane torch or heatgun.

You can always reuse the pipe or make a new one. The pipe is nickel plated copper 5mm OD. I just made a new one out of copper.


----------



## doctakedooty

@LunaP at first coming from the rampage iv extreme when I first recieved it i think I thought it would look better then it did honestly. I definitely thinking overclocking wise its harder but hopefully this weekend I can get my overclock set. I do love having a.c. wifi I picked up a netgear nighthawk with my order for my nvidia shield and this plus all my other wifi and setting up a drive on my network for media sharing. All in all I like it and hopefully finish sleeving rest of my cables this weekend although I doubt I will just because when the corsair ax1500i comes out I plan on buying it since my seasonic keeps making clicking noises when under bench load and they never respond to my rma request.


----------



## fishingfanatic

I don't understand how people can run theirs with a stable oc of say 4.8 on such low voltages. Still reading...

FF


----------



## Mydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> I don't understand how people can run theirs with a stable oc of say 4.8 on such low voltages. Still reading...
> 
> FF


Depends a bit on the CPU I guess

My 4960X
4,6 GHz - 1,26 vcore
4,7 GHz - 1,35 vcore
4,8 GHz - 1,45 vcore
4,9 GHz - a **** load of vcore


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> I don't understand how people can run theirs with a stable oc of say 4.8 on such low voltages. Still reading...
> 
> FF


Also struggling with that. I suspect that the 4x8GB at 2400MHz gets in the way but I tried running the kit at 1600MHz without much luck. Need to understand the strap 125 better as I think this is the key to lower voltage.


----------



## cadaveca

@LunaP

Just got myself 8 sticks of MFR-based single-sided sticks, exact same problems as you with SPD tool in BIOS showing four sticks as "abnormal".

However, I don't have any bandwidth problems...58k/62k/58k in AIDA64 test no problem.

Also, when using 8 sticks, I find PLL overvolt needs to be enabled, and I need 0.950V VCCSA @ 2133 MHz, compared to 0.900 V @ 2666 w/four sticks.

It's either your CPU, or the board, that had you RMA those ram kits, I am pretty sure.

@[email protected]

Raja, power figures with clamp meter, testing done using 8-pin only and Prime95 with 5 minute FFT length, and 12288 MB of ram in test usage options:

good chip

stock 3.6 all cores, no XMP: 139 W

OC 4.5 GHz all cores: 210 W

bad chip

stock 3.6 GHz, no XMP: 168W

OC 4.3 GHz: 238 W

Rig using

Thermaltake Toughpower Platinum 1275W
RIVBE
4960X ES
4x4GB Corsair 2666 C10
2x 780 Ti SLi
1x Corsair ForceGT 60 GB
WD Black 2 TB
Seagate 7200.12 1 TB
2x Noctua NF-P14
1x Noctua NF-S12B
Corsair H80i.

Good chip cannot run with less than 140% current setting @ stock. Bad chip cannot run 24/7 stable with less than 170%
Good chip works OK with adjustment, bad chip, adjust VCCSA current limits = BSOD, too.

I would really like to run good chip with 100% current setting, and the other "normal" VRM options available enabled(spread spectrum, etc), which is not possible with 140% VRM setting.

I also hooked up my Zalman power meters, and similar numbers are reported.

Board has about 8 hours of LN2 use at this point (I like to try burn-in under cold).

Am I doing something wrong, or are the problems just my chip? Given what other users report..I feel it's the board...


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Hear it up til it breaks loose. Use a propane torch or heatgun.
> 
> You can always reuse the pipe or make a new one. The pipe is nickel plated copper 5mm OD. I just made a new one out of copper.


After two hours of concentrated heat last night, nothing. The pipe actually broke just inside the I/O cover, at this point I'm not sure what to do.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm still waiting for the hole in my finger to heal before taking another shot at that heatpipe









500*C Reflow Station Gun + Rubber Gloves = Bad Idea LOLLL

It is real flimsy though. Not sure if i'm gonna bother going through that again. I might just cut mine =)

I was trying to twist the pipe with my gloves on without breaking the pipe. The side of my reflow gun's nozel just GRAZED the side of my finger for a split second, instantly burned right through the glove and left a crater in my finger =\


----------



## Kranik

Yea, at this point I'm hoping it broke inside enough that it can't be seen. The hole is marred up a little bit unfortunately, but since it's reverse ATX you'd have to get your face real close to see it. Lol.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Hello guys, I'm looking at two 2400C9 RAM kit. One with SKU: F3-2400C9Q-16GTXD and looks like

The other one with SKU: F3-19200CL9Q 16GBZMD and it looks like


They should be both HYK0 IC. Anyone knows what is the difference between these two? Which one clocks better?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Hello guys, I'm looking at two 2400C9 RAM kit. One with SKU: F3-2400C9Q-16GTXD and looks like
> 
> The other one with SKU: F3-19200CL9Q 16GBZMD and it looks like
> 
> 
> They should be both HYK0 IC. Anyone knows what is the difference between these two? Which one clocks better?


FYI, HYK0 is both 4 GB(16 IC) and 8 GB(16 IC) sticks. HYK0 is a SPEED BIN, not an IC.

Differences are probably down to SPD(maybe) and intended platform, assuming same ICs.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> FYI, HYK0 is both 4 GB(16 IC) and 8 GB(16 IC) sticks. HYK0 is a SPEED BIN, not an IC.
> 
> Differences are probably down to SPD(maybe) and intended platform, assuming same ICs.


Any difference between them?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Any difference between them?


One is 16 chips to make 4 GB, the other is 8 chips to make 4 GB(double the storage density per IC).

Or wait...you mean the kits themselves? Under the hood, not much difference likely, since only Samsung can really get C9 @ 2400 consistently. Just make sure if you want to use 8 sticks...you buy a full kit of 8 sticks.

And forget about running 2400 @ 100 BCLK with 8 sticks.

Honestly, I don't think you can go wrong here with either kit.. Even if for some reason you ended up with some crazy Hynix MFR under the hood.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> One is 16 chips to make 4 GB, the other is 8 chips to make 4 GB(double the storage density per IC).
> 
> Or wait...you mean the kits themselves? Under the hood, not much difference likely, since only Samsung can really get C9 @ 2400 consistently. Just make sure if you want to use 8 sticks...you buy a full kit of 8 sticks.
> 
> And forget about running 2400 @ 100 BCLK with 8 sticks.
> 
> Honestly, I don't think you can go wrong here with either kit.. Even if for some reason you ended up with some crazy Hynix MFR under the hood.


Gskill starts to make 2400c9 kit with MFR?!
That's crazy.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Gskill starts to make 2400c9 kit with MFR?!
> That's crazy.


Nah, I think they have not. But only so many IC are capable of those clocks/timings.

I ask G.Skill for IC info with every sample they send me, but never do I get a real answer. Of course, sticks in hand, pulling heatspreader is no problem, but I know now the physical differences on the IC edge so that I need not remove heatspreaders. Took amny kit and pulling them all apart before I figured out what was what.

G.skill 2400 C9 should be Samsung. Rare chance to be Hynix, but not MFR. Also heard there was limited-release 2400 C9 @ 1.5V sticks..never saw a kit myself though.

Myself, I have many sticks here that can do 2400 C9 with MFR. but most optimal for MFR is like 2133 11-11-11-28 @ 1.35V. MFR is really 1.35V IC, with 1600 MHz speed bin, and many kits only have H9C MFR..or 1333 MHz bin.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Nah, I think they have not. But only so many IC are capable of those clocks/timings.
> 
> I ask G.Skill for IC info with every sample they send me, but never do I get a real answer. Of course, sticks in hand, pulling heatspreader is no problem, but I know now the physical differences on the IC edge so that I need not remove heatspreaders. Took amny kit and pulling them all apart before I figured out what was what.
> 
> G.skill 2400 C9 should be Samsung. Rare chance to be Hynix, but not MFR. Also heard there was limited-release 2400 C9 @ 1.5V sticks..never saw a kit myself though.
> 
> Myself, I have many sticks here that can do 2400 C9 with MFR. but most optimal for MFR is like 2133 11-11-11-28 @ 1.35V. MFR is really 1.35V IC, with 1600 MHz speed bin, and many kits only have H9C MFR..or 1333 MHz bin.


You said it's not 100% sure 2400c9 is made from Samsung IC, Hynix IC is also possible. My next question is 2666c10 is definitely Samsung, right? Can Hynix IC clock at 2666c10? I think you have corsair 2666c10 and also 2666c10 from GSKILL, which one clocks better?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> You said it's not 100% sure 2400c9 is made from Samsung IC, Hynix IC is also possible. My next question is 2666c10 is definitely Samsung, right? Can Hynix IC clock at 2666c10? I think you have corsair 2666c10 and also 2666c10 from GSKILL, which one clocks better?


Hynix can do C10, yes, if really good, but don't think any was sold as such.

I also think any Hynix that had 2400 C9 label was given as sample only, if at all. And who knows, maybe the users relating that info were wrong.

Do keep in mind I just try to collect data through my experience and others, so I know MY experience is correct, but not others. it's hard to decipher this sort of stuff, just have to collect data and can only eliminate the things I know 100% for sure are wrong.

Corsair C10 or G.Skill C10...same stuff, luck of the draw on OC. I had hynix C11 2666 Gskill set that did 2933 MHz @ 1.65V....


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Hello guys, I'm looking at two 2400C9 RAM kit. One with SKU: F3-2400C9Q-16GTXD and looks like
> 
> The other one with SKU: F3-19200CL9Q 16GBZMD and it looks like
> 
> 
> They should be both HYK0 IC. Anyone knows what is the difference between these two? Which one clocks better?


I have those tridents. a very good kit.

for the Z's I have the 2666 kit...only okay (IMO).

oh yeah - what I like about the c9 tridents, is the do 2133 @ c8 very smoothly with low volts...but also do 2666 at c10!


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I have those tridents. a very good kit.
> 
> for the Z's I have the 2666 kit...only okay (IMO).


is it 2666c10 for your Z kit?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> is it 2666c10 for your Z kit?


I haven't tried them at c10, only c11. (actually gonna sell 'em)


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Hynix can do C10, yes, if really good, but don't think any was sold as such.
> 
> I also think any Hynix that had 2400 C9 label was given as sample only, if at all. And who knows, maybe the users relating that info were wrong.
> 
> Do keep in mind I just try to collect data through my experience and others, so I know MY experience is correct, but not others. it's hard to decipher this sort of stuff, just have to collect data and can only eliminate the things I know 100% for sure are wrong.
> 
> Corsair C10 or G.Skill C10...same stuff, luck of the draw on OC. I had hynix C11 2666 Gskill set that did 2933 MHz @ 1.65V....


cadaveca, can you find any new PSC based RAM kit>?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> cadaveca, can you find any new PSC based RAM kit>?


I have NCIX, Memory Express, BCOM, and a couple other local shops to choose from. I'd have to scour their inventory.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I have NCIX, Memory Express, BCOM, and a couple other local shops to choose from. I'd have to scour their inventory.


is it even possible to find new PSC-based memory at this stage?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> is it even possible to find new PSC-based memory at this stage?


For sure!

Most stuff over 2200 MHz in 2 GB sticks has a good chance...of course, as many clockers have found out, there are quite a few other options out there too that fit into that category, but those seem to be few and far between.

The really good PSC..was in high-bin kits of ages ago.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> For sure!
> 
> Most stuff over 2200 MHz in 2 GB sticks has a good chance...of course, as many clockers have found out, there are quite a few other options out there too that fit into that category, but those seem to be few and far between.
> 
> The really good PSC..was in high-bin kits of ages ago.


could you find some for me? I want best of the best


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> could you find some for me? I want best of the best


hahahahaha

Honestly...ain't nobody got time for dat!










No really...google those stores and take a look. If you find something and want me to ship, send me funds, I'll hook ya up, no problem.

Spring break just started here..it's the weekend...and I have 4 kids. I don't mean to be rude, but my family comes first!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> hahahahaha
> Honestly...ain't nobody got time for dat!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No really...google those stores and take a look. If you find something and want me to ship, send me funds, I'll hook ya up, no problem.
> Spring break just started here..it's the weekend...and I have 4 kids. *I don't mean to be rude*, but my family comes first!


you mean you won't hunt down a set of PCS sticks for em?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> After two hours of concentrated heat last night, nothing. The pipe actually broke just inside the I/O cover, at this point I'm not sure what to do.


What did you use to heat it up?


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> What did you use to heat it up?


Started with a hair dryer, then I borrowed my mother's embossing gun as it seemed to have a high heat output. I don't have a heat gun and was a little weary to try the propane torch.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Not sure if I am posting in then correct forums it is my understanding the Rampage lV Black Edition is using a higher end on board sound chip sorry not real techy tech.

Sound quality on the Asus Rampage lV Black Edition.

Should I use the on board sound or install a older Creative Labs Fatality 1 Champion series sound card?

The goal is to keep the build clean as possible by adding the sound card the build will not look quite as clean. I have not used on board sound since 1990.

Using a Logitech 5.1 surround sound system. Sound is important to me like listening to music and use a set of Sennheiser G4ME head set.

Can I get a bottle neck in a flight simulaytor using modified sound files?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> @[email protected]
> 
> Raja, power figures with clamp meter, testing done using 8-pin only and Prime95 with 5 minute FFT length, and 12288 MB of ram in test usage options:
> 
> good chip
> 
> stock 3.6 all cores, no XMP: 139 W
> 
> OC 4.5 GHz all cores: 210 W
> 
> bad chip
> 
> stock 3.6 GHz, no XMP: 168W
> 
> OC 4.3 GHz: 238 W
> 
> Rig using
> 
> Thermaltake Toughpower Platinum 1275W
> RIVBE
> 4960X ES
> 4x4GB Corsair 2666 C10
> 2x 780 Ti SLi
> 1x Corsair ForceGT 60 GB
> WD Black 2 TB
> Seagate 7200.12 1 TB
> 2x Noctua NF-P14
> 1x Noctua NF-S12B
> Corsair H80i.
> 
> Good chip cannot run with less than 140% current setting @ stock. Bad chip cannot run 24/7 stable with less than 170%
> Good chip works OK with adjustment, bad chip, adjust VCCSA current limits = BSOD, too.
> 
> I would really like to run good chip with 100% current setting, and the other "normal" VRM options available enabled(spread spectrum, etc), which is not possible with 140% VRM setting.
> 
> I also hooked up my Zalman power meters, and similar numbers are reported.
> 
> Board has about 8 hours of LN2 use at this point (I like to try burn-in under cold).
> 
> Am I doing something wrong, or are the problems just my chip? Given what other users report..I feel it's the board...


We will shift the VRM scale at stock to about 160% in an upcoming build (will be auto at 160%) at stock.

Oc'd CPus may need tuning on a case by case basis if they are like yours. Not many out there like yours. I have only 4-5 cases now where some CPUs need OCP raised at stock (not at OC so far).

Why do you need to change VCCSA OCP at stock on the bad chip? I ask because, so far it only takes moving CPU VRM current capability to the correct range to fix any shutdowns. has that bad chip been hammered with Ln2? If thats the cause of its current being high, I would not expect a patch to 170% OCP at stock for it.

We won't be shifting the scale as far as I know (plenty of CPus that don't need the current yours do - like the 4 core parts). Scale will stay as is, default OCP will simply be increased so that 99.9% of users dont need to set in manually. We will not be shifting 140% =100% for your good CPU. You can simply leave OCP on Auto and not set it manually for your good CPU. You post implies 140% is fine for that chip, so no issue there.









-Raja


----------



## oelkanne

Hey Guys...and yeah English is pretty Bad ....

So...im Building a "new" Rig with the Rampage Black and 3 GTX680´s . So my Lottory Question is now....A 4930K with the Chance to get something really bad or a quik pretestet 4960 with 4,5 @ 1,35 Volts??

Any Ideas maybe wonderfull from the People that knows whats good and whats not









THX


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Hey Guys...and yeah English is pretty Bad ....
> 
> So...im Building a "new" Rig with the Rampage Black and 3 GTX680´s . So my Lottory Question is now....A 4930K with the Chance to get something really bad or a quik pretestet 4960 with 4,5 @ 1,35 Volts??
> 
> Any Ideas maybe wonderfull from the People that knows whats good and whats not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THX


if you looking to OC to 4.5GHz, get the 4930K. 99.9%. MOst every 4930K can do 4.6-4.7GHz, 4.8 and up is the lottery ticket.


----------



## Shadowarez

Iv updated to 605 bios now my poor rig wont run crysis 3 without powering down instantly at random points but its always wirh 10-15 seconds into game fully loaded.

Would making a thread posting my bios settings help you guys weed out whats causing instability. Iv run 1.21v all way upto 1.48v in varrying increments still cant play any games. Cant seem to boot windows if I choose anything other then xmp.


----------



## Jpmboy

you mean 602 bios?


----------



## Shadowarez

Before this bios I had the 4701 I was able to play crysis 3 for over a hour no problem. Now no matter what its acting like im force feeding it sht. I have a 1500watt ups with pure sinwave AVR to help make sure its getting good clean power non of that dirty spiky power we got up here.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Iv updated to 605 bios now my poor rig wont run crysis 3 without powering down instantly at random points but its always wirh 10-15 seconds into game fully loaded.
> 
> Would making a thread posting my bios settings help you guys weed out whats causing instability. Iv run 1.21v all way upto 1.48v in varrying increments still cant play any games. Cant seem to boot windows if I choose anything other then xmp.


post them here that is what this thread is for, spoilers help and you may be able to help someone in the future


----------



## Shadowarez

The main area board seems to have issues in is digi power control once I choose Manuel. Once get home ill take pics of bios settings ill load up a burn in app to make it reboot. But ill catch the qcode once it powers off if I can.


----------



## [email protected]

Either set OCP to 160% or Enable CPU current inertia. Should not need to do anything else if it is OCP shutdown related.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Hello guys,

Maybe this is not the right place to ask, does anyone have newegg coupon code? I;m thinking of buying some RAM from Newegg.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Iv updated to 605 bios now my poor rig wont run crysis 3 without powering down instantly at random points but its always wirh 10-15 seconds into game fully loaded.
> 
> Would making a thread posting my bios settings help you guys weed out whats causing instability. Iv run 1.21v all way upto 1.48v in varrying increments still cant play any games. Cant seem to boot windows if I choose anything other then xmp.


assuming you are talking about R4BE - take screenshots of your bios w/ the built in tool, then post them here. As Raja said, make sure you have OCP set @ 160% or higher.


----------



## fishingfanatic

Well there must be something I'm doing wrong.I can run 4.6 @ 1.35 v. New beta bios, but can't get over 4.7 without crashing.

Won't run with cpu strap unless in auto,...Perhaps this new bios? Best I can do is to crank the bclk and get 4.728. With the air gamer's preset

it's the same, only 4.7 only runs @ 1.39-1.395. So either way it won't go any nigher and I figure if I can get my cpu strap to work @ 125 it

might help.

I am so lost, way out of my comfort zone. About to try 125 again @ factory ref. settings this time.

Maybe I'll take a break and try flashing my kpes. EVGA has a new bios for them. Anyone try that new bios yet?

FF


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> We will shift the VRM scale at stock to about 160% in an upcoming build (will be auto at 160%) at stock.
> 
> Oc'd CPus may need tuning on a case by case basis if they are like yours. Not many out there like yours. I have only 4-5 cases now where some CPUs need OCP raised at stock (not at OC so far).
> 
> Why do you need to change VCCSA OCP at stock on the bad chip? I ask because, so far it only takes moving CPU VRM current capability to the correct range to fix any shutdowns. has that bad chip been hammered with Ln2? If thats the cause of its current being high, I would not expect a patch to 170% OCP at stock for it.
> 
> We won't be shifting the scale as far as I know (plenty of CPus that don't need the current yours do - like the 4 core parts). Scale will stay as is, default OCP will simply be increased so that 99.9% of users dont need to set in manually. We will not be shifting 140% =100% for your good CPU. You can simply leave OCP on Auto and not set it manually for your good CPU. You post implies 140% is fine for that chip, so no issue there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Raja


So all those VRM options like spread spectrum and whatever...are there for no reason?

OH, you guys have ES BIOS that makes 180% actually 180%?

So for normal users, many of those VRM options are useless...why are they even there?

AI-AI-AI...options there you cannot use are a tease!

VCCSA on bad chip...is just a poopy chip. That one saw no LN2....no point. Power consumption is too high already, and decent LN2 clock would push ~500W.

In the end, I think these CPUs are just all a bit worse than what you guys got as samples. I don't blame the board per se, but I do know that on P9X79 Deluxe, I can run stock with VRM spread spectrum and 100% current setting no problem.

When you set 130% or lower, more options "open up"....I just want those options usable @ 140%, or whatever, honestly.

Because good chip..set 130%...it's not stable any more. clearly, to me, given power draw...140% actually = 100%.

And yeah, OC is fine....like ***?!?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> So all those VRM options like spread spectrum and whatever...are there for no reason?
> 
> OH, you guys have ES BIOS that makes 180% actually 180%?
> 
> So for normal users, many of those VRM options are useless...why are they even there?
> 
> AI-AI-AI...options there you cannot use are a tease!


1) No ES UEFI build required.

2) If 100% were 140% like you want it to be, the 4 core 8 thread CPUs would need to be at 50%-70% to have a useful cut-off point that someone can use.

3) VRM Spread Spectrum modulates the VRM frequency - so it may impact stability in a negative way.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> No ES UEFI build required.
> 
> If 100% were 140% like you want it to be, the 4 core 8 thread CPUs would need to be at 50%-70% to have a useful cut-off point that someone can use.


I do understand.

Just relating my frustrations.


----------



## oelkanne

Is anyone out there who has contact to XSPC???...Major Problem in here


----------



## Holynacho

Well finally got mine up and running. Should hold me over till Broadwell-E


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Is anyone out there who has contact to XSPC???...Major Problem in here


Try this as i have in the past and they replied fairly quickly as well!

1, http://www.xs-pc.com/support/

Also check out the Web Site for a Phone Number!!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## funkmetal

Well, I took my RIVE to a shop because I couldn't figure out the RAM Issue I was having and apparently Slot B1 was damaged. So I guess its time to RMA this thing and get a RIV BE to replace it possibly and sell the RMA Return RIVE


----------



## fishingfanatic

Imho, great choice for a new 1, sorry to hear about the other board, but now you can have that black beauty, no not the horse. lol









FF


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> Well there must be something I'm doing wrong.I can run 4.6 @ 1.35 v. New beta bios, but can't get over 4.7 without crashing.
> )


That's because once you hit a wall with the frequency, it's possibly a hard wall. Sometimes additional voltage does nothing.

4.7 is not stable for me with any sane voltage. Better just forget about it.


----------



## xRuBiCoNx

Hello









I am also a proud owner of a RIVBE now and ran straight into problems








First i updated to the latest BIOS 0602 since i read that it should fix some stuff regarding OCP.

My Hardware on Benchtable is:
RIV BE
1 Stick of Corsair 2133 in D1 (Stick is from Quad Channel Kit CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 that works perfectly in my RIVE)
Corsair 1200i
X300 Card for Output
Samsung 840 Pro for Windows

All Settings are default (XMP enabled)

After i put the System under a bit load (like Prime95 "blend") the System just restarts (without any blue screen).

I tried to set OCP 160% / CPU current inertia on enabled

Any pointers what i could try?


----------



## axiumone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRuBiCoNx*
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am also a proud owner of a RIVBE now and ran straight into problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First i updated to the latest BIOS 0602 since i read that it should fix some stuff regarding OCP.
> 
> My Hardware on Benchtable is:
> RIV BE
> 1 Stick of Corsair 2133 in D1 (Stick is from Quad Channel Kit CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 that works perfectly in my RIVE)
> Corsair 1200i
> X300 Card for Output
> Samsung 840 Pro for Windows
> 
> All Settings are default (XMP enabled)
> 
> After i put the System under a bit load (like Prime95 "blend") the System just restarts (without any blue screen).
> 
> I tried to set OCP 160% / CPU current inertia on enabled
> 
> Any pointers what i could try?


Yeah, same here. I'm getting kind of tired of this. No matter what settings I try. I just get random reboots. No BSOD just a reboot. I can game for hours, but if I leave it with just prime on blend it will reboot. It can be after 20min or 6 hours.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

xRuBiCoNx

Set OCP to max 180% and leave it there. It won't hurt anything.


----------



## sidekisk

I still have yet to be added so I'm submitting this again just in case I forgot it the last time.

http://valid.canardpc.com/qiyprm


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidekisk*
> 
> I still have yet to be added so I'm submitting this again just in case I forgot it the last time.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/qiyprm


Luna P Has been a bit busy, i'm sure he will update when he is back.


----------



## xRuBiCoNx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> xRuBiCoNx
> 
> Set OCP to max 180% and leave it there. It won't hurt anything.


I tried that and got a freeze this time (no reboot) after 1,5min of Prime "Blend"

I donno if thats step into right direction XD


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRuBiCoNx*
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am also a proud owner of a RIVBE now and ran straight into problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First i updated to the latest BIOS 0602 since i read that it should fix some stuff regarding OCP.
> 
> My Hardware on Benchtable is:
> RIV BE
> 1 Stick of Corsair 2133 in D1 (Stick is from Quad Channel Kit CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 that works perfectly in my RIVE)
> Corsair 1200i
> X300 Card for Output
> Samsung 840 Pro for Windows
> 
> All Settings are default (XMP enabled)
> 
> After i put the System under a bit load (like Prime95 "blend") the System just restarts (without any blue screen).
> 
> I tried to set OCP 160% / CPU current inertia on enabled
> 
> Any pointers what i could try?


1 rigbuilder see my sig !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> xRuBiCoNx
> 
> Set OCP to max 180% and leave it there. It won't hurt anything.


yep


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRuBiCoNx*
> 
> I tried that and got a freeze this time (no reboot) after 1,5min of Prime "Blend"
> 
> I donno if thats step into right direction XD


Increase VCCSA if it is happeing on the higher FFTs. If the CPU is overclocked, then look at Vcore as well (your post does not state CPU type or what frequency the system is running at).


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> is it even possible to find new PSC-based memory at this stage?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> For sure!
> 
> Most stuff over 2200 MHz in 2 GB sticks has a good chance...of course, as many clockers have found out, there are quite a few other options out there too that fit into that category, but those seem to be few and far between.
> 
> The really good PSC..was in high-bin kits of ages ago.


I'm pretty sure you are definately not going to find many new PSC 2gb sticks unless they've been buried and resurfaced or in G.Skills vaults.
(seen some sets replaced on rma)

If you can find them on ebay, these 2000-2200 mhz 2x2gb kits sell for upwards of $150 easily. Of course any of these need to be oc'd for 2400mhz speeds.

And just because I love my 2 sequential sets


----------



## oelkanne

Count me in


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I'm pretty sure you are definately not going to find many new PSC 2gb sticks unless they've been buried and resurfaced or in G.Skills vaults.
> (seen some sets replaced on rma)
> 
> If you can find them on ebay, these 2000-2200 mhz 2x2gb kits sell for upwards of $150 easily. Of course any of these need to be oc'd for 2400mhz speeds.
> 
> And just because I love my 2 sequential sets


JELLY !!!


----------



## WCRF_1710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> And just because I love my 2 sequential sets


So do I !!!





Didn't test it on BE yet.










In R4E they were played 2400 9-11-9-27 1.65v 24/7.

2400 8-11-8-28 1.74v for benchs.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I'm pretty sure you are definately not going to find many new PSC 2gb sticks unless they've been buried and resurfaced or in G.Skills vaults.
> (seen some sets replaced on rma)
> 
> If you can find them on ebay, these 2000-2200 mhz 2x2gb kits sell for upwards of $150 easily. Of course any of these need to be oc'd for 2400mhz speeds.
> 
> And just because I love my 2 sequential sets


Not many, for sure, but I know that there are some out there.


----------



## xRuBiCoNx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Increase VCCSA if it is happeing on the higher FFTs. If the CPU is overclocked, then look at Vcore as well (your post does not state CPU type or what frequency the system is running at).


Sorry to forget metioning that









Its an 4960X as CPU an its not really OC

I have made some screens of the Settings I made in BIOS and a Tempure/VCore Screenshot in Windows to show the Values should be more than enough to keep it stable (I know VCore and Memory Voltage values are a bit higher than normal but just for testing to be sure it isnt those voltages)

http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/windows.png
http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_01.png
http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_02.png
http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_03.png

Show high should I/can I go with VCCSA?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRuBiCoNx*
> 
> Sorry to forget metioning that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its an 4960X as CPU an its not really OC
> 
> I have made some screens of the Settings I made in BIOS and a Tempure/VCore Screenshot in Windows to show the Values should be more than enough to keep it stable (I know VCore and Memory Voltage values are a bit higher than normal but just for testing to be sure it isnt those voltages)
> 
> http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/windows.png
> http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_01.png
> http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_02.png
> http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_03.png
> 
> Show high should I/can I go with VCCSA?


Ha, 1.3V VCCSA? try going with 0.950 V, and take a DIFFERENT approach. If you have a chip like mine (and I think many do), then setting voltages too high will case slightly increased power consumption, and might trigger OCP.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Not many, for sure, but I know that there are some out there.


I have both flare and pis set for saved search and have seen less than a dozen sets offered for sale in the past 2 years. All used. In fact if you are interest, check out the ram fan club here on OCN. If you can find new ones, I'd be happy to eat crow.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I have both flare and pis set for saved search and have seen less than a dozen sets offered for sale in the past 2 years. All used. In fact if you are interest, check out the ram fan club here on OCN. If you can find new ones, I'd be happy to eat crow.


G.Skill is the only company that sold PSC?

LuLz.

I have no doubt that most high-binned PSC is gone, but I think that there are other older sets that can do as well. Of course, there definitely could be none...

At the same time, I can still buy Elpidia Hypers.

I have Mushkin, G.Skill Flare, and Exceleram PSC myself.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> G.Skill is the only company that sold PSC?
> 
> LuLz.
> 
> I have no doubt that most high-binned PSC is gone, but I think that there are other older sets that can do as well. Of course, there definitely could be none...
> 
> At the same time, I can still buy Elpidia Hypers.
> 
> I have Mushkin, G.Skill Flare, and Exceleram PSC myself.


Lol. Yes, I'm laughing too at how condescending you always seems to be to whom ever does anything but agree with everything you say.
Of course there are other manufact. That used PSC, but Gskill seem to have the most out there and most prominent.


----------



## Jpmboy

So who wants to sell theirs...?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Known PSC based memory
> 
> ADATA:
> 
> PC3-16000 XPG Gaming Series 9-9-9-24 AX3U2000GB2G9-2G
> 
> Corsair:
> 
> Corsair Rev 7.1A Dominator GT (CMT, probably CMG too) | 1600 6-8-6 -> 2150 8-10-8
> Corsair Dominator CMD4GX3M2B1600C8 Rev 7.1
> 
> *G.Skill:
> 
> G.Skill Pi
> G.Skill Flares
> G.Skill Ripjaws (Red & Blue heatspreaders)
> PC3-12800 ECO 8-8-8-24 (sometimes Elpedia?)
> PC3-19200 PIS 9-11-9-28 F3-19200CL9D-4GBPIS
> PC3-20000 Trident 9-11-9-28 F3-20000CL9D-4GBTDS
> *
> GEIL:
> 
> PC3-16000 EVO TWO 6-9-6-24 GET34GB2000C6DC
> 
> Mushkin:
> 
> PC3-12800 Redline 6-8-6-24 998805
> PC3-12800 Redline 6-8-6-24 996805
> PC3-12800 Redline Copperhead 6-8-6-24 998831
> 
> Mach Xtreme (MX Technology)
> 
> Mach Xtreme Armor X 1600MHz CL8 | 1600 8-8-8 -> 1800 9-9-9
> 
> Transcend:
> 
> PC3-19200 aXeRAM 9-11-9-28 TX2400KLU-4GK


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?260358-PSC-based-memory-list


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRuBiCoNx*
> 
> Sorry to forget metioning that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its an 4960X as CPU an its not really OC
> 
> I have made some screens of the Settings I made in BIOS and a Tempure/VCore Screenshot in Windows to show the Values should be more than enough to keep it stable (I know VCore and Memory Voltage values are a bit higher than normal but just for testing to be sure it isnt those voltages)
> 
> http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/windows.png
> http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_01.png
> http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_02.png
> http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_03.png
> 
> Show high should I/can I go with VCCSA?


Are you still using a single memory module? Try a different channel if so.

With the settings you have there, almost inclined to think something else is causing your issues. Clear CMOS, just set 180% OCP - do not change anything else. Don't even enable XMP. See if you still get shutdown~resets with no BSOD.


----------



## xRuBiCoNx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Ha, 1.3V VCCSA? try going with 0.950 V, and take a DIFFERENT approach. If you have a chip like mine (and I think many do), then setting voltages too high will case slightly increased power consumption, and might trigger OCP.


I tried that now and got 1344 Prime Custom running







(played with PLL / PCH voltages too)

http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_01.png

Edit:
I got a reboot after 13ish Minutes


----------



## xRuBiCoNx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Are you still using a single memory module? Try a different channel if so.
> 
> With the settings you have there, almost inclined to think something else is causing your issues. Clear CMOS, just set 180% OCP - do not change anything else. Don't even enable XMP. See if you still get shutdown~resets with no BSOD.


I run Quad Channel now and it did Prime Custom Loops with 1344 that lasted 13mins before reboot. I had to bump other voltages as well!

This is the Config but the Voltages seem to be pretty high :x
http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_01.png
http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_02.png
http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_03.png


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRuBiCoNx*
> 
> I run Quad Channel now and it did Prime Custom Loops with 1344 that lasted 13mins before reboot. I had to bump other voltages as well!
> 
> This is the Config but the Voltages seem to be pretty high :x
> http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_01.png
> http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_02.png
> http://xrubiconx.de/pix/RIVBE/bios_03.png


Some of those changes are probably superfluous to requirements.

1) Put PCH voltage back to stock
2) Do the same with CPU PLL
3) VCCSA swithcing freq might be fine on auto as well.

Set one thing back at a time and monitor for impact (the three above should make no real difference).


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Yeah, same here. I'm getting kind of tired of this. No matter what settings I try. I just get random reboots. No BSOD just a reboot. I can game for hours, but if I leave it with just prime on blend it will reboot. It can be after 20min or 6 hours.


I have a lot of problems with prime. My 4820 k passed 3 hours of aida64 until it reported a failure. Prime fails almost instantly but usually goes just a few mins before an error. I will say this I only ran into application errors like prime and Aida reporting an error no bsod until I switched to the latest bios. I also have found as of late a lot of video driver driver crashes. Mainly when running realbench v2.


----------



## xRuBiCoNx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Some of those changes are probably superfluous to requirements.
> 
> 1) Put PCH voltage back to stock
> 2) Do the same with CPU PLL
> 3) VCCSA swithcing freq might be fine on auto as well.
> 
> Set one thing back at a time and monitor for impact (the three above should make no real difference).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


After I put 1.) back to Stock restart 2ish Minutes after Prime
After I put 2.) back to Stock restart 5ish Minutes after Prime
After I put 3.) back to Stock restart after I started Prime


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRuBiCoNx*
> 
> After I put 1.) back to Stock restart 2ish Minutes after Prime
> After I put 2.) back to Stock restart 5ish Minutes after Prime
> After I put 3.) back to Stock restart after I started Prime


NEver heard of anyone having to change those 3 for restarts as you are reporting. 1&3 should have no real impact on restart behaviour - even PLL should not affect it the way you state.


----------



## xRuBiCoNx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> NEver heard of anyone having to change those 3 for restarts as you are reporting. 1&3 should have no real impact on restart behaviour - even PLL should not affect it the way you state.


A member of a german Hardwareforum put in the thought that the VRMs might be faulty/damaged.

If you consider that the voltages that you asked me to revert to default are usually not affecting it it sounds at least like a possibility that the random restarts might be the VRMs and the voltages are useless.


----------



## CoolProject

Hello

Is the Samsung 840 Pro 512GB is compatible with the secure erase of the R4BE?

Thanks


----------



## [email protected]

Yep - PCH voltage isn't directly related to any bus Prime 95 stresses. CPU PLL from 1.80V to 1.82V should not be the difference between the board being stable and restarting during a stress test either. Think the issue lies elsewhere - perhaps the board has a fault.


----------



## xRuBiCoNx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Yep - PCH voltage isn't directly related to any bus Prime 95 stresses. CPU PLL from 1.80V to 1.82V should not be the difference between the board being stable and restarting during a stress test either. Think the issue lies elsewhere - perhaps the board has a fault.


Do you have any other idea regarding a setting that i could possibly change?
Or should I RMA the board?


----------



## [email protected]

No other settings should cause restarts this way.

Do this as a last sanity check:

1) Clear CMOS.
2) Set CPU VRM OCP to 180%
3) Leave DRAM at default (don't set XMP).

If the board still restarts, disable Anti-surge and try again. Also just use a single memory module - and rotate it through each channel and see if that has any affect on restart behaviour.

If the board keeps on restarting under these conditions I'd RMA it. Just check the socket for any bent pins though before you do.

When you get the new board, set it up on a non-conductive surface, with a bare minimum of components and check it for a few days before putting it into a case.

-Raja


----------



## skupples

*Note: The out side of a non-conductive bag IS NOT non-conductive.*


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Lol. Yes, I'm laughing too at how condescending you always seems to be to whom ever does anything but agree with everything you say.
> Of course there are other manufact. That used PSC, but Gskill seem to have the most out there and most prominent.


Sorry, I don't mean to sound condescending, that's just how I talk all the time.







I AM an overly confident person, but at the same time, it is no problem to be wrong...gotta learn somehow!









The Mushkin Redline and Blackline PSC 6-8-6 stuff was pretty common, but for sure the best clockers always seemed to be G.Skill sticks. But then, maybe your right, and that is simply because they were more common.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRuBiCoNx*
> 
> After I put 1.) back to Stock restart 2ish Minutes after Prime
> After I put 2.) back to Stock restart 5ish Minutes after Prime
> After I put 3.) back to Stock restart after I started Prime


Keep those change Raja suggested, and push VCCSA up a bit, to like 1.05V. My CPUs, too high or too low gets reboots.

Also, if you changed ram at any point, best to clear CMOS.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> *Welcome to the Rampage IV Black Edition Owner's Club!*


(Everything is subject to change without you taking the time to realize! Huzzah!)

Welcome to the thread, and congrats on owning the top dawg of the x79 industry! You've got a powerful force in your hands, and we're plenty excited to hear what you're doing with it











*So what's in the thread and what are we doing?*
*
*


First and foremost showing our pride by holding it up zelda style!(Music is optional);
Sharing experiences with our boards and others looking to purchase;
Overclocks , assistance with and best practices for the board.
Anything else you can think for this board.

*Table of Contents*


Board specifications
Board Owners
RIVBE Owner's club signature








Requirements for being added to the overclocking achievements list
Bios versions list
Known hardware and software Issues
Build logs of RIVBE Users
OC Record Holders
- Memory
- CPU

*Board Specifications!*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Based on Intel's X79 Express chipset with support for Intel's LGA 2011 Core i7 Ivy Bridge-E CPUs, the new Rampage IV Black Edition is based on an E-ATX form factor and features all of the best ROG technologies and innovations for unrivaled gaming and overclocking performance. Born to push limits and break records, it includes the OC Panel, a real-time system-monitoring and tuning console that is great for gamers and a huge advantage for overclockers. It can be mounted in a 5.25? bay for everyday monitoring of temperatures, base clock and fan speeds while also offering one-click CPU Level Up for an instant speed boost. Externally, it can sit on the desktop and be used to monitor and control multiple parameters in real-time via onboard buttons. Extreme overclocking has never been easier!

As far as the specification go, the new ASUS ROG Rampage IV Black Edition features four PCI-Express 3.0 x16 slots with support for both 4-way NVIDIA SLI and AMD CrossFireX, two PCI-Express 2.0 x1 slot, eight DIMM memory slots will support for up to 64GB of DDR3 DRAM and will comes with included free copy of Ubisoft's Assassin's Creed IV: Black Flag game.

Although it was not yet widely available, ASUS ROG Rampage IV Black Edition have already been in the hands of world-class overclockers and currently holds top scores in multiple benchmarks as well as other world records on the X79 platform.

In order to make a perfect and premium X79-based motherboard, ROG engineers combined thoughtful design with superior quality components providing it with Extreme Engine DIGI+ III voltage-regulator module (VRM) for highly precise and stable power delivery by employing NexFET MOSFETs, 60A (amp) chokes and high-endurance Japanese-made 10K black metallic capacitors. With black-themed heatsink that is integrated with the MOSFET area and extends to the input/output cover, the new Rampage IV Black Edition provides not only better cooling and stability but also a piece of bragging right in any open-window case.

The new Rampage IV Black Edition also comes with built-in SupremeFX Black technology provides sound quality that is on par with high-end dedicated sound cards. Premium components such as ELNA audio capacitors and German-made WIMA film capacitors deliver impeccable clarity, while high-fidelity op-amps (operational amplifiers) and a Cirrus Logic CS4398 DAC (digital/analog converter) deliver lossless audio and a brilliant 120dB SNR (signal-to-noise ratio).

It just would not be a Republic of Gamers product without the Sonic Radar, an on-screen overlay that provides fans of first-person shooter (FPS) games with an ear to the ground, as it displays the precise direction and origin of in-game sounds such as gunshots, footsteps and call-outs ? giving ROG gamers a leg-up when trying to pinpoint the enemy. It also features ultra-fast Intel Gigabit Ethernet with ROG's GameFirst II utility which optimizes network traffic to keep latency at a minimum and reduce all-important ping times as well as the ROG RAMDisk utility which allows up to 80% of a computer's available RAM to be used as a high-speed virtual drive ? lending a strong performance boost to many modern games that regularly read or write data during gameplay.



*Additional Write up for our OC Enthusiasts*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Rampage IV Black Edition has eight DIMM sockets for up to 64GB of DRAM (DDR3 2800MHz+, overclocked), supports up to 4-way graphics card (multi-GPU) setups, includes Extreme Engine DIGI+ III voltage-regulator module (VRM) for ultra-stable power delivery and benefits from SupremeFX Black, for audio that's as great as a high-end dedicated sound card. Bundled with a free copy of Assassin's Creed® IV: Black Flag, it is a truly formmidable package.

ROG assembled the best to break the limits

Rampage IV Black Edition has been modeled to delight overclockers. The motherboard is bundled with OC Panel, a real-time system-monitoring and tuning console that's great for gamers and a huge advantage for overclockers. It can be mounted internally for everyday monitoring of temperatures, base clock and fan speeds with one-click CPU Level Up for an instant speed boost, or used externally for hardcore tweaking to monitor and control multiple parameters via on-machine buttons in real-time. Extreme overclocking has never been easier.

Rampage IV Black Edition has plenty of room for multi-GPU setups, with support for both 4-way NVIDIA® SLI™ and AMD CrossFireX so gamers can also unleash th the full power of the latest graphics technologies.

To break the limits, ROG engineers combined thoughtful design with superior quality components. Rampage IV Black Edition's Extreme Engine DIGI+ III voltage-regulator module (VRM) provides highly precise and stable power delivery by employing NexFET MOSFETs, 60A (amp) chokes and high-endurance Japanese-made 10K black metallic capacitors. As well, the motherboard's awesome black-themed heat-sink is exclusively cleverly integrated with the MOSFET area and extends to the input/output (I/O) cover for even better cooling and stability.

With such masterful design, it is no surprise that Rampage IV Black Edition has already broken many world records. It currently holds world-beating scores in 3DMark11 Entry (E39244), 3DMark11 Performance (P41531), 3DMark11 Extreme (X22531), 3DMark Fire Strike (34246) and 3DMark Vantage (P96500). As well as setting new top scores in these exacting benchmark tests, Rampage IV Black Edition has also claimed numerous other world records on X79 platform, overclocking an i7-4820k processor to 6943MHz and G.Skill quad-channel DDR3 kit to 4072MHz. It has also generated the highest base clock (BCLK) yet for the X79 platform an astonishing 197.16MHz and pushed the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility all the way up to 1924 marks.

Built for the most demanding games and gamers

Rampage IV Black Edition is packed with features that will delight the hardest of hardcore gamers. Built-in SupremeFX Black technology provides sound quality that's on a par with high-end dedicated sound cards. Premium components such as ELNA® audio capacitors and German-made WIMA® film capacitors deliver impeccable performance, while high-fidelity op-amps (operational amplifiers) and a Cirrus Logic® CS4398 DAC (digital/analog converter) deliver lossless audio and a brilliant 120dB SNR (signal-to-noise ratio). A Hi-Fi-quality Texas Instruments® TPA6120A2 600ohm headphone amplifier boosts every sound detail for personal listening, too. Exclusive EMI (electromagnetic interference) isolation technology and a newly-upgraded NEC/TOKIN UC2 audio relay protects electrical circuits from overload and reduces 'pops' enabling Rampage IV Black Edition to deliver warm, clear and natural audio.

ROG's Sonic Radar on-screen overlay provides fans of first-person shooter (FPS) games with an ear to the ground, as it displays the precise direction and origin of in-game sounds such as gunshots, footsteps and call-outs giving ROG gamers a foot-up when trying to pinpoint the enemy.

Ultra-fast Intel Gigabit Ethernet with ROG's GameFirst II utility optimizes network traffic to keep latency to minimum and reduce all-important 'ping' times, while the ROG RAMDisk utility allows up to 80% of a computer's available RAM to be dedicated as a high-speed virtual drive lending a strong performance boost to thee many modern games that regularly read or write data during play.

Stunning style to the core

Rampage IV Black Edition is undoubtedly stunning to behold and the sensational black styling runs ddeeper than surface beauty. The new motherboard includes a UEFI BIOS that displays a friendly graphical interface styled with the gorgeous new black theme.

As well as looking fantastic, Rampage IV Black Edition's new UEFI BIOS is brilliantly easy to use with tons of powerful tuning options and the ability to set up overclocking profiles. Built in to the UEFI BIOS is Secure Erase, a feature that lets users quickly restore SSDs to a factory-fresh condition for the best possible performance.








*Board specifications*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Rampage IV Black Edition

Supported CPU
CPU Socket Type
LGA 2011
CPU Type
Core i7 (LGA2011)
Supported CPU Technologies
Turbo Boost Technology 2.0

Chipsets
North Bridge
Intel X79

Memory
Number of Memory Slots
8×240pin
Memory Standard
2800(O.C.)/2666(O.C.)/2600(O.C.)/2500(O.C.)/2400(O.C.)/2200(O.C.)/2133(O.C.)/2000(O.C.)/1866(O.C.)/1800(O.C.)/1600/1333 MHz
Maximum Memory Supported
64GB
Channel Supported
Quad Channel

Expansion Slots
PCI Express 3.0 x16
4 x PCIe3.0 x16 slots, support x16; x16/x16; x16/x8/x16 and x16/x8/x8/x8
PCI Express x1
2

Storage Devices
SATA 3Gb/s
4
SATA 6Gb/s
6 x SATA 6Gb/s (2 by Intel X79 chipset,4 by ASMedia controller)
SATA RAID
0/1/5/10

Onboard Audio
Audio Chipset
ROG SupremeFX
Audio Channels
8 Channels

Onboard LAN
LAN Chipset
Intel
Max LAN Speed
10/100/1000Mbps
Wireless LAN
Wi-Fi 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac
Bluetooth
Bluetooth v4.0

Rear Panel Ports
1 x PS/2 keyboard/mouse port
4 x USB 2.0
6 x USB 3.0
2 x eSATA 6Gb/s
1 x Optical
Audio Ports
5 Ports

Internal I/O Connectors
Onboard USB
2 x USB 3.0 + 6 x USB 2.0
Other Connectors
1 x ROG extension (ROG_EXT) header
8 x 4-pin Fan connectors: 2 x CPU / 3 x Chassis / 3 x Optional
11 x ProbeIt Measurement points
3 x Thermal sensor connectors
1 x SPDIF_Out header
1 x 24-pin EATX Power connector
1 x 8-pin ATX 12V Power connectors
1 x 4-pin ATX 12V power connector
1 x LN2 Mode header
1 x Slow Mode switch
1 x START (Power On) button
1 x RESET button
1 x EZ Plug connector(s) (4-pin Molex power connector)
1 x MemOK! button
1 x BIOS Switch button
1 x Audio front panel (AAFP)
1 x System panel connector
1 x TPM connector
1 x DirectKey button
1 x DRCT (DirectKey) header

Form Factor
Extended ATX
Dimensions
12" x 10.7"
Power Pin
24 Pin

ROG Exclusive Features

ROG Extreme OC kit
-Slow Mode
-LN2 Mode
-PCIe x16 Lane switch
-EZ Plug

ROG Connect
- RC Poster
- RC Remote
- RC Diagram

ROG Extreme Engine Digi+ III
-8 phase CPU power
-3 phase VCCSA power
-2+2 phase DRAM power
-NexFET Power Block MOSFET
-60A BlackWing Chokes
-10K Black Metallic Capacitors

UEFI BIOS features
-ROG BIOS Print
-GPU.DIMM Post
-Extreme Tweaker
-Tweakers' Paradise
-ROG SSD Secure Erase
-O.C. Profile
-ROG Pulse

CPU Level Up
ProbeIt
ROG RAMDisk

Special Features

ASUS Dual Intelligent Processors 4
-4-Way Optimization Tuning Key, consolidating DIGI+ Power Control, TPU, EPU, and Fan Xpert 2

ASUS Wi-Fi GO!

Overclocking Protection
-COP EX (Component Overheat Protection-EX)
-ASUS C.P.R.(CPU Parameter Recall)

ASUS Exclusive Features
-MemOK!
-Onboard Switches: Power/Reset/Clr CMOS (at rear)
-AI Suite 3
-USB 3.0 Boost
-USB Charger+
-AI Charger+
-Disk Unlocker

ASUS EZ DIY
-USB BIOS Flashback
-ASUS CrashFree BIOS 3
-ASUS EZ Flash 2

ASUS Q-Design
-ASUS Q-Code
-ASUS Q-Shield
-ASUS Q-LED (CPU, DRAM, VGA, Boot Device LED)
-ASUS Q-Slot
-ASUS Q-DIMM
-ASUS Q-Connector

BIOS Features
-2 x 64Mb UEFI AMI BIOS, PnP, DMI2.7, WfM2.0, SM BIOS 2.7, ACPI5.0a Multi-Language BIOS

Package Contents
ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition Motherborad
User's manual
I/O Shield
OC Panel Kit
- 1 x OC Panel
- 1 x OC Panel 5.25-inch bay metal case
- 1 x OC Panel cable
- 1 set of screws
1 x 2T2R dual-band Wi-Fi moving antennas
1 x ROG Magnet
1 x ROG Connect cable
1 x 3-Way SLI bridge
1 x 4-Way SLI bridge
1 x SLI cable
1 x CrossFire cable
1 x 2-in-1 ASUS Q-Connector Kit
2 x 2-in-1 SATA 3Gb/s signal cables
3 x 2-in-1 SATA 6Gb/s signal cables
1 x 12-in-1 ROG Cable label
1 x X-Socket pad



*RIVBE Owner's list!*

I'll detail this better later

Skupples
Unicr0nhunter
saer
*cadaveca* *[VIP]*
WannaBeOCer
eduncan911
DBaer
Arm3nian
TK101
erayser
KoSoVaR
Redshift91
binormalkilla
combatvetgsr
BOB850123
kpoeticg
IT Diva
maxxx.ph
Heracles
Cool Mike
mphysgr
cruzdi
_REAPER_
Jacoblab
Baldguy
ZX2Slow
degenn
CerN
SDMODNoob
Aftermath2006
HydrasunGQ
RSharpe
MagnumMatt
JimmyWild
Mega Man
jamiee
Dayjavu
szeged
Bimmer555
TheDude26
cobz
VertKiller
Poolboy
6steven9
ArctiX
LaBestiaHumana
broken pixel
B 0 n 3 z 55
xvxvxv
Hotrod717
FiveEYZ
FX45Guy
johnnybravo
AgeAyeTheLabSci
danialhanson
Rental Home
SeriousBlack
Slinky PC
AndresR
mikep577
mfranco702
jokrik
wermad
MrTOOSHORT
necro1
Nicz
kazenagi
ANDEEZY
Valice
DooRules
rabidz7
strong island 1
Nalsur
moddedMessiah
WCRF_1710
SMiThaYe
Infectedshadow
Chucklez
Bick
navynuke499
gdubc
massimo40mq
tvelander
r1ingu
ProfeZZor X
JLMS2010
chimaychanga
Dreamxtreme
Elvandar
Juggalo23451
Zimzoid
Webhito
yttocstfarc
Errorist66
SeanEboy
Ajay57
axiumone
Nizzen
kzinti1
mzain109
Mydog
amra88
S1lv3rflame
Falcon3
Shadowwarez
fishingfanatic
JottaD
doctakedooty
TobbbeSWE

*Owner's Club Signature*

:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Please update if you already haven't since the introduction of the [Official] Status for the thread.

Will more than likely be taking it to the next level later on so stay tuned









Code:



Code:


[CENTER] :clock: [url=http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/0_30]Official Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club[/url] :clock: [/CENTER]





*Club Requirements!*

You can do any of the following:


Screenshot of your order
Simply upload a screenshot of your motherboard with your Display name!
*Or* submit a CPU-Z shot. *(Easiest)*
If you ordered from NCIX simply submit a screenshot of your order.

*Current BIOS and versions list*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Latest Bios!! NEW!!! 0602 BETA

Better support for SB-E chips
Supports 125 Strap for more stable OC's
Stability fixes.

2nd BIOS 0507

Stability fixes, for mem timings, and better auto settings.
Adds Vtd option (so you can disable/enable) in Bios.
*Added Support for Intel Xeon family CPU's*

First Bios 0403



*Known Hardware and Software issues*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



None at this time, updating shortly



*Build logs for RIVBE owners*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



mphysgr's Build log
kpoeticg's Build log
jokrik's Build log
Redshift 91's Build log



*OC Record Holders [Memory/CPU]*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Memory
CPU


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Cool Mike - 4930k @ 4.6Ghz 1.42V in bios (1.44V in CPUZ)






Any suggestions or considerations please let me know, Grammar natzi's are welcome! <3 Will be updating this over the course of the week as I gather more information!

*Also for anyone looking to setup their own club and needs help w/ the design look etc, feel free to use mine as a template or PM me if you have questions on how to get certain effects!*



Regarding Hardware issues:

"Not able to run ram speeds above 1600 Mhz" - Solution: Turn on X.M.P. in Bios. Reboot, and set ram speed.


----------



## fishingfanatic

Yeah I did that for mine. I always run xmp at least once, it seems to help somewhat but not at higher speeds like 2133 or 2400.

I thought bcuz I have 2400 mhz sticks that they should at least run that high when the system is set @ reference. I changed my settings to

2133 and it wouldn't run never mind 2400. Even with no adjustments at all they won't run at that speed.

I still have to get a decent stable oc with the strap set manually.

Right now I'm not bothering with ram too much until I get more comfortable with the board and cpu and their intricacies.

The board's ram presets r what I use. Mode 3 I believe.

I'm using G Skills Trident X series 4x4gb 2400mhz. No issues ever with my Mushkins or G Skills. The Mushkins r 2133mhz redlines. I don't

remember if they run @ 2133 when everything's at ref. Going to try that and c.

Just got my replacement Sabretooth from last year, I have to try it b4 anything else. Hate having to send 1 back, even if it's just a broken fan

blade on the KPE.

New card doesn't oc as well. No voltage adjustments at all. Too new at ocing.

Well I think I'm going to try playing around with the bios for those kpes.

The skyn3t guys must be really busy with all of this stuff for the gpus. They have to have patience with a guy like me and I don't know how they

find the time.

Anyway, going to try XMP again and then setting the speeds higher after to c if I can catch something I may have missed or should adjust.

Love my RIVBE!!!


----------



## WCRF_1710

Don't understand why most people can't run 2400 mhz on this board, here is what I got with almost everything set to AUTO:


----------



## sabishiihito

It's not the board, it's the CPUs.


----------



## Ajay57

My answer would be learn the basics more before you try to OC Ram on this Motherboard!!

Some people can not even get it set up properly with the Auto settings let alone OC and change the Bios settings and understand what they do and why!

That's why i said there is a need for Bios Photo's of basic settings that someone could use when Overclocking this Motherboard, with a 4930K or a 4960X Ivy Bridge CPU's.

Also how to set your Ram properly without using the XMP Profiles as on occasions they tend not to work with every ones Ram Sticks!!

I really feel this would go along way to helping the new Members that have just purchased a Black Edition and a IB-E CPU!

In fairness its taking me years just to learn the basic knowledge and some advanced tweaks as well here, so its not possible to do this overnight.

And COOKIE QUICK OC's are not the best way to learn or do things, in my book that's just my 10cents.

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## fishingfanatic

Yeah, agreed. I need more experience to really know what to adjust and how much. I'm only now learning to use the offset with various voltage adjustments for the turbo,...

When something works to improve things, reading up on it, especially here bcuz of all being RIVBEs helps a LOT. Heck there are plenty of options no matter what ur doing with this board. I haven't even fired up

the 4930k unit in about 2wks. That's a ROG IV Ex!

If there are some pics of some setups available it would be a lot easier to pick up on things, especially for someone who's just a beginner, like me... I would know what works and why and save some of my

stumblin' n bumblin' along... lol









There really is a lot to learn, and each board is different. Everyone has a different approach to doing things, and it doesn't necessarily mean it's right or wrong for everyone.

That said, helping newbies like me to keep from doing too much damage to my hardware though I don't understand most of it yet, especially software...is very much appreciated.

Other than the fact we were all beginner's at 1 point, I honestly believe having this kind of thread helps everyone, even the pros.

I can't say it enough... thanks everyone for your help now and in the future.









FF


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> Don't understand why most people can't run 2400 mhz on this board, here is what I got with almost everything set to AUTO:


It's because you use a small 16 GB kit, and those with issues are using 32 GB or higher.


----------



## Shadowarez

heres my bios i clocked down to 4.3ghz for stability testing again. im also noticing my kit of mem is running at Cr3 no matter setting i putin bios, i put Cr1 but cpuz is reporting 3, heres all info i even put in ai suite so you can can see voltages on every part of bios. with these settings im still gettin hard system locks that require reboot.

Main
main con
Main Con/URL]
Main Con2
Main Digi+Control
Digi Con
CPUZ+GPUZ


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> heres my bios i clocked down to 4.3ghz for stability testing again. im also noticing my kit of mem is running at Cr3 no matter setting i putin bios, i put Cr1 but cpuz is reporting 3, heres all info i even put in ai suite so you can can see voltages on every part of bios. with these settings im still gettin hard system locks that require reboot.
> 
> Main
> main con
> Main Con/URL]
> Main Con2
> Main Digi+Control
> Digi Con
> CPUZ+GPUZ


1st question I have would be why you are using ultra llc with 4.3 and second, why 500 voltage frequency with 4.3? 4.3 should require very little tweaking. You have it set up like you're going for 4.8-4.9. Leave digi+ alone other than medium llc and current capability of 140% for 4.3


----------



## Shadowarez

i had it at 4.8ghz then updated bios and it fked my settings, then became really unstable, 4.3 is just my starting point now for stability settings back up to 4.8 stable in prime,


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> i had it at 4.8ghz then updated bios and it fked my settings, then became really unstable, 4.3 is just my starting point now for stability settings back up to 4.8 stable in prime,


Same thing happened to me...I had to start all over. Seriously thinking about reverting to previous bios


----------



## Shadowarez

iv been trying to get back to the 0470 or what ever it was to get my setting back, i cant run manuel and choose 2400mhz for my ram, so i use xmp, and rive tweak settings, seem to be working im in windows now and i pushed asus suite to oc to 4800 mhz works fine, thermals under 35 celecius.


----------



## Mega Man

i think i broke some world records today

stress testing as i think the new firefox beta is giving me issues, but i wanted to make sure.

when i came across this


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think i broke some world records today
> 
> stress testing as i think the new firefox beta is giving me issues, but i wanted to make sure.
> 
> when i came across this


lol, solar flare hit the CPU.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> i had it at 4.8ghz then updated bios and it fked my settings, then became really unstable, 4.3 is just my starting point now for stability settings back up to 4.8 stable in prime,


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Same thing happened to me...I had to start all over. Seriously thinking about reverting to previous bios


I've seen a bunch of people post about it lowering voltages, It seems to be opposite with me, as doing 4.8 isn't the same for me either. I will probably revert back to previous as well.


----------



## [email protected]

Beta UEFI based on 0602. Only change OCP threshold to 160% at default for higher leakage CPUs (no other change).

https://www.mediafire.com/?cimhzhv6wodixa3


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I've seen a bunch of people post about it lowering voltages, It seems to be opposite with me, as doing 4.8 isn't the same for me either. I will probably revert back to previous as well.


The current sensing may have shifted the load voltages and regulation a bit - for OCs dialled in to the hilt you may need to re-tune. There were no other changes between the older builds and 06** series.

-Raja


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Beta UEFI based on 0602. Only change OCP threshold to 160% at default for higher leakage CPUs (no other change).
> 
> https://www.mediafire.com/?cimhzhv6wodixa3


There will be an official release following the beta? Might help exactly with my CPU.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> There will be an official release following the beta? Might help exactly with my CPU.


Going to answer this with some humour (given today's date)

None of the UEFIs I post will ever be made official - not even if they work. They will always be beta - forever...

-Raja


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Going to answer this with some humour (given today's date)
> 
> None of the UEFIs I post will ever be made official - not even if they work. They will always be beta - forever...
> 
> -Raja


Well what I was after, was whether Asus is going to do something similar in upcoming BIOSes.


----------



## [email protected]

Why do you think we wouldn't?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> There will be an official release following the beta? Might help exactly with my CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to answer this with some humour (given today's date)
> 
> None of the UEFIs I post will ever be made official - not even if they work. They will always be beta - forever...
> 
> -Raja
Click to expand...


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I've seen a bunch of people post about it lowering voltages, It seems to be opposite with me, as doing 4.8 isn't the same for me either. I will probably revert back to previous as well.


I've seen lower voltages all around but stability isn't the same at the voltages I was stable at before on the last bios. Right now I'm fairly stable at [email protected] need to do some further testing.


----------



## XViper2

I have my board as well. Did you guys ever try the preset liquid cooled OC? It does some really dangerous stuff. When selected, it overclocks the processor to 4.9ghz but bumps the vcore to 1.55v!!! It actually runs surprisingly. Is the board trying to kill my processor?!?!

I'm having it run stock on my 4930k as of this moment but I used the XMP profile on the RAM and it's on 3.9ghz.. It's just as fast as my previous 2700k oc'ed to 4.8ghz.

I'll add pictures of my setup when I get back home after work.


----------



## Gunslinger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> I have my board as well. Did you guys ever try the preset liquid cooled OC? It does some really dangerous stuff. When selected, it overclocks the processor to 4.9ghz but bumps the vcore to 1.55v!!! It actually runs surprisingly. Is the board trying to kill my processor?!?!
> 
> I'm having it run stock on my 4930k as of this moment but I used the XMP profile on the RAM and it's on 3.9ghz.. It's just as fast as my previous 2700k oc'ed to 4.8ghz.
> 
> I'll add pictures of my setup when I get back home after work.


I typically only use the bios presets for LN2 use.

For a 24/7 OC I know the limits of my cooling system are around 1.4-1.45V on 6 core CPU's so I target something under that.

For example, I'll set 1.35Vcore and adjust the multiplier up to find where my max OC is on that given voltage, then document temps.
Then I'll bump it up to 1.375 and repeat the process, ending at 1.45V and then choosing the OC that meets what I want for speed and temperature.


----------



## XViper2

I hope I didn't kill the processor running it for a hot minute. I didn't run any benchmarks when it was volted so high though.

I'm going to try to overclock with with the suggestions in this thread. I want to aim for 4.5ghz as I just want to run this processor for probably the next 3 years.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Beta UEFI based on 0602. Only change OCP threshold to 160% at default for higher leakage CPUs (no other change).
> 
> https://www.mediafire.com/?cimhzhv6wodixa3


Thanks a lot Raja!


----------



## Ajay57

There is a old saying "IF ITS NOT BROKEN, DON'T FIX IT" in other words if your previous Bios was working perfectly before, why change anything!!

I am still on 0507 with my 4960X here and its still going well, as for some of the Members posts about there OC problems!

From what i have seen they are way off the mark and could do better, to help themselves.
















Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> There is a old saying "IF ITS NOT BROKEN, DON'T FIX IT" in other words if your previous Bios was working perfectly before, why change anything!!
> 
> I am still on 0507 with my 4960X here and its still going well, as for some of the Members posts about there OC problems!
> 
> From what i have seen they are way off the mark and could do better, to help themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


Yup I'm solid on the original bios !!


----------



## XViper2

I received intermittent BSOD's with the older bios.

How high of a voltage is safe for 24/7?


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> I received intermittent BSOD's with the older bios.
> 
> How high of a voltage is safe for 24/7?


Anything under 1.4 volts is said to be OK, but the lower the better for extra life!!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> There is a old saying "IF ITS NOT BROKEN, DON'T FIX IT" in other words if your previous Bios was working perfectly before, why change anything!!
> 
> I am still on 0507 with my 4960X here and its still going well, as for some of the Members posts about there OC problems!
> 
> From what i have seen they are way off the mark and could do better, to help themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


That's almost like saying "Why overclock? The cpu works perfectly at stock."
I understand that most people don't use the earlier releases on the R4E.
You try a new bios to see if it offers anything more in terms of performance, lower voltage, or stability. I rue the day when nobody tries something new. Nothing will ever advance. My


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> That's almost like saying "Why overclock? The cpu works perfectly at stock."
> I understand that most people don't use the earlier releases on the R4E.
> You try a new bios to see if it offers anything more in terms of performance, lower voltage, or stability. I rue the day when nobody tries something new. Nothing will ever advance. My


Those things don't appeal to most users, unfortunately. Tweaking daily isn't common, at all. Buy it, clock it, and then USE IT!!!

Gamers, or those using PC for other normal stuff are the majority, real overclockers are like 500 globally, if even that much. The rest take what real clockers try for benches, and apply that to 24/7 use, and that's that.

Me... I try everything, spend nearly 10 hours every single day tweaking. If not my own rig, it's test systems for review.

All that said, just because we don't use our PCs the same way, doesn't mean any of us are wrong, or things won't advance.







Like really?


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Those things don't appeal to most users, unfortunately. Tweaking daily isn't common, at all. Buy it, clock it, and then USE IT!!!
> 
> Gamers, or those using PC for other normal stuff are the majority, real overclockers are like 500 globally, if even that much. The rest take what real clockers try for benches, and apply that to 24/7 use, and that's that.
> 
> Me... I try everything, spend nearly 10 hours every single day tweaking. If not my own rig, it's test systems for review.
> 
> All that said, just because we don't use our PCs the same way, doesn't mean any of us are wrong, or things won't advance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like really?


You just like to quibble don't you? You start by empathizing only to end with, again, some condescending remark. I was replying to someone who reports to bench on hwbot. Any bencher would like to see any gain. Seems like you troll this thread to massage your ego or make some condescending remarks. Yeah







like really? This is OCN or I thought it was.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> This is OCN or I thought it was.


Yep, and while we like to push, we need to support the regular users that help fund the development of the next gear we buy.









It's not condescending...it's simply asking for some patience. I don't like reading people bashing others and how they use their stuff. Had you BOUGHT that stuff for him..OK.









It's not trolling...it's me trying to help build a stronger community. I mean, you do not feel your post was condescending at all?


----------



## Errorist66

I am a little confused. Spent 4H yesterday following the OC guide. Aiming for lowest voltage for a clock speed.
So I lower my 2400MHz kit to 2133. Suddenly the old issue with write speed being 44GB/sec vs read at 60GB/sec moved around and I was getting 58GB/sec both way. which i preferred as balance always looks healtier.

Come home today and the system was hung on one of the data drive connected to asmedia was stuck. Moved the drive connector back to the Intel 3gbps port.
Power back up and system comes up set for 4.5GHz but stock at 39. Reload default optimized value, save, then reload the profile I saved yesterday for my 4.5GHz OC. But now the memory write speed with aida is 39GB/s and read at 56GB/sec.

43 worked at 1.26V core (-0.065 offset)
44 worked at 1.265 core ( -0.8 offset)
45 worked at 1.305 core (-0.04 offset
45 required . 1.18v for VCCSA and VTTx2

it is normal to get varying results from one day to the next? Is my CPU degrading at the speed of light or would you suspect the ram 4x8GB to be at cause?

I have this baby on water for everything except the memory. Do I need to reflash the bios?
bios is 0602. remaining info in the sig.


----------



## kpoeticg

cadaveca, you're one of the most crucial people to have in this little club of ours. you're definitely not a troll.

I think sometimes when you're trying to help people, they don't realize that you actually DO know what you're talking about.

Also, miscommunications are really easy on forums. I've had people thinking i was making fun of em when i was trying to help them. Too many different levels of users around.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yep, and while we like to push, we need to support the regular users that help fund the development of the next gear we buy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not condescending...it's simply asking for some patience. I don't like reading people bashing others and how they use their stuff. Had you BOUGHT that stuff for him..OK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not trolling...it's me trying to help build a stronger community. I mean, you do not feel your post was condescending at all?


I agree with you Cadaveca. Overclocking is not always why you get the setup. But for some, After you read 2 or 3 OC guide, read every post you can find on overclocking and the asus forums, you see the potential of the hardware. You start feeling that you're in a Ferrari doing 70 on the autoban. So you step a litlle on the gaz, when the road is straight and you like the feeling. you build up some confidence. After a while you're hooked and spend hours tuning the machine. But you still need to help from more experienced user, so you come here and most people here won't try to make you feel like a noob.


----------



## doctakedooty

Me I started out to build a budget gaming pc turned into a few c rand pc and benching more then gaming I find my self tuning for a week fir a pass or two on benches


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCRF_1710*
> 
> Don't understand why most people can't run 2400 mhz on this board, here is what I got with almost everything set to AUTO:


pretty sure you can change that cycle time to at least 193 from 214.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I am a little confused. Spent 4H yesterday following the OC guide. Aiming for lowest voltage for a clock speed.
> So I lower my 2400MHz kit to 2133. Suddenly the old issue with write speed being 44GB/sec vs read at 60GB/sec moved around and I was getting 58GB/sec both way. which i preferred as balance always looks healtier.
> 
> Come home today and the system was hung on one of the data drive connected to asmedia was stuck. Moved the drive connector back to the Intel 3gbps port.
> Power back up and system comes up set for 4.5GHz but stock at 39. Reload default optimized value, save, then reload the profile I saved yesterday for my 4.5GHz OC. But now the memory write speed with aida is 39GB/s and read at 56GB/sec.
> 
> 43 worked at 1.26V core (-0.065 offset)
> 44 worked at 1.265 core ( -0.8 offset)
> 45 worked at 1.305 core (-0.04 offset
> 45 required . 1.18v for VCCSA and VTTx2
> 
> it is normal to get varying results from one day to the next? Is my CPU degrading at the speed of light or would you suspect the ram 4x8GB to be at cause?
> 
> I have this baby on water for everything except the memory. Do I need to reflash the bios?
> bios is 0602. remaining info in the sig.


When it comes to memory, training on cold boot and warm boot is slightly different, if I got it right. So, you ALWAYS need to shut down fully and boot again and test from both cold boot and warm boot to find out if your system is truly stable for the long term.

At thee same time, for OC and benching, the shorter training on warm boot can allow you to push further, so we need to have that whether we want it or not.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> pretty sure you can change that cycle time to at least 193 from 214.


128 is good one with SB-E, haven't gone that tight with IVB-E yet myself. Since Haswell I've been stuck in "sometimes looser is better" mode. Haswell kinda brings a completely different twist to mem OCing, so it's interesting to see things from one platform to the next and what applies...and what doesn't.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ~snip~


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> ~snip~


Thanks guys.


----------



## fishingfanatic

Funny how some of the simplest comments whether meant as a rant or quip,... or just sarcastic comedy, can get the ole blood a boiling..

I am just a beginner and while a lot of this stuff is above my knowledge base, it's quite interesting. I've taken different suggestions from different people's setups and while not great, got a bit of better results.

Some people can sit and play around for hours while others will do a bit here n there. I'm fortunate to be home all day. The wife hates it bcuz I do even less when benching and don't do much now as it is. Bad

back, But life goes on. I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who've helped. Still looking to get a bit more, though that pretty much applies to most here I would think.

The skyn3t guys have been awesome and I actually got the bios done 1st crack. As a newbie I was sweating bullets. Well not really, maybe rabbit pellets....lol.

I have a Sabretooth board that I've not changed the bios to it as I get 5 ghz with my 3960 in that system. I think it was an old one when I got it but I don't care and it was a replacement board. 1 day soon I'll

update it and hope for the best.

FF


----------



## Shadowarez

hey raja thanks for this, i had the shipped bios out of box at 4.8 ghz, i updated to the modded 0602 put in same values i had before now i cant reach 4.8ghz stable, temps were also lower lol 17-21 idle 34-38 load now 34 idle -43 load, rom the settings you see what could/should i lower for say just a 4.4 ghz over clock, memory im running is Corsair 2400mhz quad channel platium dominators, ida bout another set but from $440 to $950+ no thanks,


----------



## Ajay57

It seems my simple Statement caused a few Feathers to be ruffled, that was not the intention at all!!

Its just that being nearly 60 Years old and a avid Overclocker you learn from your mistakes over time.









When it comes to tuning your PC or a Car you must have wished sometimes you had left it alone, when it was running perfectly!!!

Its happened to me sometimes and i ended up making things worse, but that can also help you learn how things in your Bios works etc.









As for me i try to tune my set for Max return as i do Benching on the HWbot, but as "Cadaveca" say's each to they own way of doing things.









Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## sidekisk

Can you please add me. I thought I had submitted this before but I'm not seeing my name up there.

http://valid.canardpc.com/qiyprm



Thanks


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Those things don't appeal to most users, unfortunately. Tweaking daily isn't common, at all. Buy it, clock it, and then USE IT!!!
> 
> Gamers, or those using PC for other normal stuff are the majority, real overclockers are like 500 globally, if even that much. The rest take what real clockers try for benches, and apply that to 24/7 use, and that's that.
> 
> Me... I try everything, spend nearly 10 hours every single day tweaking. If not my own rig, it's test systems for review.
> 
> All that said, just because we don't use our PCs the same way, doesn't mean any of us are wrong, or things won't advance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like really?


So Cad. If you were to get your hands on my system. And wanted to get to a good semi stable overclock where do you start? What's your starting point and where do you end up with a semi stable system? Just looking for your opinion. Thanks.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> hey raja thanks for this, i had the shipped bios out of box at 4.8 ghz, i updated to the modded 0602 put in same values i had before now i cant reach 4.8ghz stable, temps were also lower lol 17-21 idle 34-38 load now 34 idle -43 load, rom the settings you see what could/should i lower for say just a 4.4 ghz over clock, memory im running is Corsair 2400mhz quad channel platium dominators, ida bout another set but from $440 to $950+ no thanks,


Sorry - can you lay out the post and your requirements a bit better - the post above is a tad erratic


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Why do you think we wouldn't?


Got confused by your post.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidekisk*
> 
> Can you please add me. I thought I had submitted this before but I'm not seeing my name up there.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/qiyprm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I hope that you didn't hit apply with that settings on the classy controller, unless you are aiming to kill your cards!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> When it comes to memory, training on cold boot and warm boot is slightly different, if I got it right. So, you ALWAYS need to shut down fully and boot again and test from both cold boot and warm boot to find out if your system is truly stable for the long term.
> 
> At thee same time, for OC and benching, the shorter training on warm boot can allow you to push further, so we need to have that whether we want it or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 128 is good one with SB-E, haven't gone that tight with IVB-E yet myself. Since Haswell I've been stuck in "sometimes looser is better" mode. Haswell kinda brings a completely different twist to mem OCing, so it's interesting to see things from one platform to the next and what applies...and what doesn't.
> 
> Thanks guys.


128 works fine with ivy e and the gs trident 2400 c9 @ 2133. Not an sb-e thing. See my post in the ivy thread


----------



## XViper2

I have a RAID 5 set on the Intel connectors.

Is it a good idea to put the primary boot (Windows 8.1 Pro) on the Asmedia ports?

Samsung SSD Magician does not see the interface and a few of the options are greyed out because it's not on AHCI.


----------



## Zidd

Hey guys after a Silent case for this mobo.
Was getting the Fractal Define R4 Black Case, but told its not compatible for this eATX mobo.

Heard mentions of:
NZXT Whisper
nzxt-switch-810-hybrid
Or maybe modding a Phantom with foam and silent kit?? Heard the plastic aint great quality so even if silenced, still sounds like rattling. Im guessing this would be the case for most cases.

Here is rest of my spec btw, if anyone thinks there will be any issues.

Power Supply: Seasonic 850W Gold Power Supply
Processor: Intel Core i7 4930K Six Core (3.4GHz, 12MB Cache overclockable upto 4.4GHz, Hyperthreading) Socket 2011
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H100 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
Graphics Card 1: nVidia GeForce GTX 780 3GB GDDR5 PCI Express Graphics Card
Memory: 16-32GB Corsair DDR3 1866MHz C10 Quad Channel Memory Kit (2-4 x 8GB)
Hard Disk Drive One: 500GB Samsung 840 Evo SSD
Hard Disk Drive Two: 1TB Seagate 64MB Cache
Optical Drive One: Blu-Ray Rewriter & DVD-RW Combo Drive
Sound Card: Onboard HD 7.1 Audio OR Creative SoundBlaster Z
Operating System: Windows8Pro 64bit

Was going for a X79 Sabertooth, and then was considering the newer Delux for £10 more,
but the Rampage IV Black won me with the OC external device and fetures.
Not sure if worth £100 more though, especially if X99 are on way

(sorry if spouting rubbish, im slowly picking up stuff last couple month as research build. Been away from the game for 8 years, and yearning for an incredible rig. But dont want it to be 'out of date' by the time i have paid for it. Im likely to keep this for years, but want the room to expand as I go. Dont want to be shelling out for new system in 2-5yrs time. Using it for gaming, HD video editing, some 3d, progressing into Unity)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> So Cad. If you were to get your hands on my system. And wanted to get to a good semi stable overclock where do you start? What's your starting point and where do you end up with a semi stable system? Just looking for your opinion. Thanks.


Depends on the platform and the CPU. For IVB-E, 1.3V and 4.5 GHz is a great starting point, however, the first thing I ever do is run stock, and grab power draw numbers and stock voltages using a multi meter. I also guage performance in basic tasks, and get some gaming done. I like to use "stock" for some time, monitoring all aspects of the system.

Then, I boost voltage to "safe" levels(1.3V here with IVB-E), and try for 4.6 GHz. To me, 4.6 GHz is the most optimal speed for daily use. If it works right away, I then drop voltages to lowest possible.

Then, while finding 4.6 GHz stable, I check power consumption, temperature, and all voltages, paying attention to how stable voltages are, too.

Then, I clock up the memory, while leaving CPU at stock. Once stable, I clock the CPU back up.

I also test using one-, two-, and three-GPU configs with each chip.

Then, I test each CPU multi down from that 4.6 GHz, check voltages along the way. At some point, multi increase requires a larger voltage boost. I use either one above(memory clocking), or one below(24-7), that big boost.

The general tests I use are listed in my Haswell OC guide posted on TPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 128 works fine with ivy e and the gs trident 2400 c9. Not an sb-e thing. See my post in the ivy thread


I haven't been looking in many of the other threads here on OCN regularly.







Just not enough time. So...

Can I get a link, please?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zidd*
> 
> Hey guys after a Silent case for this mobo.
> Was getting the Fractal Define R4 Black Case, but told its not compatible for this eATX mobo.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> Heard mentions of:
> NZXT Whisper
> nzxt-switch-810-hybrid
> Or maybe modding a Phantom with foam and silent kit?? Heard the plastic aint great quality so even if silenced, still sounds like rattling. Im guessing this would be the case for most cases.
> 
> Here is rest of my spec btw, if anyone thinks there will be any issues.
> 
> Power Supply: Seasonic 850W Gold Power Supply
> Processor: Intel Core i7 4930K Six Core (3.4GHz, 12MB Cache overclockable upto 4.4GHz, Hyperthreading) Socket 2011
> CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H100 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
> Graphics Card 1: nVidia GeForce GTX 780 3GB GDDR5 PCI Express Graphics Card
> Memory: 16-32GB Corsair DDR3 1866MHz C10 Quad Channel Memory Kit (2-4 x 8GB)
> Hard Disk Drive One: 500GB Samsung 840 Evo SSD
> Hard Disk Drive Two: 1TB Seagate 64MB Cache
> Optical Drive One: Blu-Ray Rewriter & DVD-RW Combo Drive
> Sound Card: Onboard HD 7.1 Audio OR Creative SoundBlaster Z
> Operating System: Windows8Pro 64bit
> 
> Was going for a X79 Sabertooth, and then was considering the newer Delux for £10 more,
> but the Rampage IV Black won me with the OC external device and fetures.
> Not sure if worth £100 more though, especially if X99 are on way
> 
> (sorry if spouting rubbish, im slowly picking up stuff last couple month as research build. Been away from the game for 8 years, and yearning for an incredible rig. But dont want it to be 'out of date' by the time i have paid for it. Im likely to keep this for years, but want the room to expand as I go. Dont want to be shelling out for new system in 2-5yrs time. Using it for gaming, HD video editing, some 3d, progressing into Unity)


The R4 is compatible with the e-atx asus motherboard such as the R4E/R4BE.
See my fractal rig in my sig.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zidd*
> 
> Hey guys after a Silent case for this mobo.


Check out my rig. I picked the corsair Air 540. With the H100i in push pull and 3 sp120's all set under 1100 rpm I can barely hear this computer even under full load. The case has a lot of room to build in and it's very easy to make it look good with the cable routing. Let me know if u gave any questions.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Depends on the platform and the CPU. For IVB-E, 1.3V and 4.5 GHz is a great starting point, however, the first thing I ever do is run stock, and grab power draw numbers and stock voltages using a multi meter. I also guage performance in basic tasks, and get some gaming done. I like to use "stock" for some time, monitoring all aspects of the system.
> Then, I boost voltage to "safe" levels(1.3V here with IVB-E), and try for 4.6 GHz. To me, 4.6 GHz is the most optimal speed for daily use. If it works right away, I then drop voltages to lowest possible.
> Then, while finding 4.6 GHz stable, I check power consumption, temperature, and all voltages, paying attention to how stable voltages are, too.
> Then, I clock up the memory, while leaving CPU at stock. Once stable, I clock the CPU back up.
> I also test using one-, two-, and three-GPU configs with each chip.
> Then, I test each CPU multi down from that 4.6 GHz, check voltages along the way. At some point, multi increase requires a larger voltage boost. I use either one above(memory clocking), or one below(24-7), that big boost.
> The general tests I use are listed in my Haswell OC guide posted on TPU.
> I haven't been looking in many of the other threads here on OCN regularly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not enough time. So...
> Can I get a link, please?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/1140#post_22037399


----------



## Zidd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I can barely hear this computer even under full load..


Must admit it doesnt look very silent with the wide open sections with fans rather exposed.
Guess the best approach would be to have doors that opened for times when at full load at sound doesnt matter,
but would think that anything with hinges would rattle to a degree.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> The R4 is compatible with the e-atx asus motherboard such as the R4E/R4BE..


Any reason why the I might be told it wasnt compatible?
I had mentioned to me about the Cooler Master Cosmos 2 but £350, on a £2400 rig, really starting to add up.
Donno if should be reconsidering if all this X99 talk is true


----------



## b0x3d

Can I be added to the club please? Loving my new board!


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Depends on the platform and the CPU. For IVB-E, 1.3V and 4.5 GHz is a great starting point, however, the first thing I ever do is run stock, and grab power draw numbers and stock voltages using a multi meter. I also guage performance in basic tasks, and get some gaming done. I like to use "stock" for some time, monitoring all aspects of the system.
> 
> Then, I boost voltage to "safe" levels(1.3V here with IVB-E), and try for 4.6 GHz. To me, 4.6 GHz is the most optimal speed for daily use. If it works right away, I then drop voltages to lowest possible.
> 
> Then, while finding 4.6 GHz stable, I check power consumption, temperature, and all voltages, paying attention to how stable voltages are, too.
> 
> Then, I clock up the memory, while leaving CPU at stock. Once stable, I clock the CPU back up.
> 
> I also test using one-, two-, and three-GPU configs with each chip.
> 
> Then, I test each CPU multi down from that 4.6 GHz, check voltages along the way. At some point, multi increase requires a larger voltage boost. I use either one above(memory clocking), or one below(24-7), that big boost.
> 
> The general tests I use are listed in my Haswell OC guide posted on TPU.


Thanks alot! We think a lot alike. That's pretty much the way I've been overclocking. I plan to just leave my ram at 2133. Would you just use XMP for that or would you pull the timings and settings and enter them manually? Is there a difference? I also read your haswell guide on TPU. Great job very well written I'm going to try your way of stability testing.


----------



## sidekisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I hope that you didn't hit apply with that settings on the classy controller, unless you are aiming to kill your cards!


I didn't, I was just playing around with the sliders being bored.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Thanks alot! We think a lot alike. That's pretty much the way I've been overclocking. I plan to just leave my ram at 2133. Would you just use XMP for that or would you pull the timings and settings and enter them manually? Is there a difference? I also read your haswell guide on TPU. Great job very well written I'm going to try your way of stability testing.


Memory is always done without XMP. I use XMP for reviews, since that is what works across all boards and most users will do(mostly), but for myself, it is all manual, all the time. This is important, since boards will not listen to manual settings all the time(specifically TRFC with this board), and noticing which settings change contrary to what you have set can be a fantastic tool to figuring out those last little things required for long-term stability.

At the same time, I do some stuff that I have never heard or seen online, in regards to burn-in with CPUs. There are two approaches...stable max clock with removing cooling so temps increase, and stable max with extreme cold and excessive voltages and high loads. I try to push leakage higher on purpose with low-voltage chips, since this modifies how a chip behaves with cold. Seeing how a chip reacts to this treatment is interesting to me somehow.

So while other guys are running LN2 for HWBOT, I run LN2 for myself, and don't share my results publically, since I don't care about scores, I care about playing with the hardware. Like reviews...I'm not important...the hardware is.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zidd*
> 
> Any reason why the I might be told it wasnt compatible?
> I had mentioned to me about the Cooler Master Cosmos 2 but £350, on a £2400 rig, really starting to add up.
> Donno if should be reconsidering if all this X99 talk is true


They must have missed the multiple times I said it was fitting despite Fractal is not advertising it to be compatible, which is normal since it cover the cables holes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidekisk*
> 
> I didn't, I was just playing around with the sliders being bored.


You had me worried for a second, but then I saw the frequency, still don't burn those precious


----------



## skupples

Storm trooper or Strom stryker are Both really good and inexpensive case. Should be under 200$


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yep, and while we like to push, we need to support the regular users that help fund the development of the next gear we buy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not condescending...it's simply asking for some patience. I don't like reading people bashing others and how they use their stuff. Had you BOUGHT that stuff for him..OK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not trolling...it's me trying to help build a stronger community. I mean, you do not feel your post was condescending at all?


No, simply trying to show the other side of his comment. Plain and simple. You're way off on what you're saying. Here's a refresher -

Him - "There is a old saying "IF ITS NOT BROKEN, DON'T FIX IT" in other words if your previous Bios was working perfectly before, why change anything!!
I am still on 0507 with my 4960X here and its still going well, as for some of the Members posts about there OC problems!
From what i have seen they are way off the mark and could do better, to help themselves. redface.gifwink.gif"

Me - That's almost like saying "Why overclock? The cpu works perfectly at stock."
I understand that most people don't use the earlier releases on the R4E.
You try a new bios to see if it offers anything more in terms of performance, lower voltage, or stability. I rue the day when nobody tries something new. Nothing will ever advance. My 2cents.gif

Where exactly am I telling anybody what to do with their hardware?And exactly how am bashing?









For you to jump in was pointless and trolling for sure. Further more, you're definitely twisting the situation with your last response to me.
Almost every time I post you seem to have something to say about it, regardless of who it's directed at.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Almost every time I post you seem to have something to say about it, regardless of who it's directed at.


You simply bring up good things to discuss.









Discussion isn't trolling.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zidd*
> 
> Hey guys after a Silent case for this mobo.
> Was getting the Fractal Define R4 Black Case, but told its not compatible for this eATX mobo.
> 
> Heard mentions of:
> NZXT Whisper
> nzxt-switch-810-hybrid
> Or maybe modding a Phantom with foam and silent kit?? Heard the plastic aint great quality so even if silenced, still sounds like rattling. Im guessing this would be the case for most cases.
> 
> Here is rest of my spec btw, if anyone thinks there will be any issues.
> 
> Power Supply: Seasonic 850W Gold Power Supply
> Processor: Intel Core i7 4930K Six Core (3.4GHz, 12MB Cache overclockable upto 4.4GHz, Hyperthreading) Socket 2011
> CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H100 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
> Graphics Card 1: nVidia GeForce GTX 780 3GB GDDR5 PCI Express Graphics Card
> Memory: 16-32GB Corsair DDR3 1866MHz C10 Quad Channel Memory Kit (2-4 x 8GB)
> Hard Disk Drive One: 500GB Samsung 840 Evo SSD
> Hard Disk Drive Two: 1TB Seagate 64MB Cache
> Optical Drive One: Blu-Ray Rewriter & DVD-RW Combo Drive
> Sound Card: Onboard HD 7.1 Audio OR Creative SoundBlaster Z
> Operating System: Windows8Pro 64bit
> 
> Was going for a X79 Sabertooth, and then was considering the newer Delux for £10 more,
> but the Rampage IV Black won me with the OC external device and fetures.
> Not sure if worth £100 more though, especially if X99 are on way
> 
> (sorry if spouting rubbish, im slowly picking up stuff last couple month as research build. Been away from the game for 8 years, and yearning for an incredible rig. But dont want it to be 'out of date' by the time i have paid for it. Im likely to keep this for years, but want the room to expand as I go. Dont want to be shelling out for new system in 2-5yrs time. Using it for gaming, HD video editing, some 3d, progressing into Unity)


this is not a true eatx, it is a psudo and will fit 99% of cases that fit full atx !


----------



## Errorist66

Thanks for the tip Cadaveca.
I reapplied my changed from a clean F5 and the memory speed is back. almost looks like the save/restore OC profile is messing things up. It do power off the flick the switch on the PSU, hit power button to flush the capacitors between runs so it still fells like there's some voodo dance missing.

btw, which water chiller you got? the Koolance EXC-800?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zidd*
> 
> Hey guys after a Silent case for this mobo.
> Was getting the Fractal Define R4 Black Case, but told its not compatible for this eATX mobo.
> 
> Heard mentions of:
> NZXT Whisper
> nzxt-switch-810-hybrid
> Or maybe modding a Phantom with foam and silent kit?? Heard the plastic aint great quality so even if silenced, still sounds like rattling. Im guessing this would be the case for most cases.
> 
> Here is rest of my spec btw, if anyone thinks there will be any issues.
> 
> Power Supply: Seasonic 850W Gold Power Supply
> Processor: Intel Core i7 4930K Six Core (3.4GHz, 12MB Cache overclockable upto 4.4GHz, Hyperthreading) Socket 2011
> CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H100 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
> Graphics Card 1: nVidia GeForce GTX 780 3GB GDDR5 PCI Express Graphics Card
> Memory: 16-32GB Corsair DDR3 1866MHz C10 Quad Channel Memory Kit (2-4 x 8GB)
> Hard Disk Drive One: 500GB Samsung 840 Evo SSD
> Hard Disk Drive Two: 1TB Seagate 64MB Cache
> Optical Drive One: Blu-Ray Rewriter & DVD-RW Combo Drive
> Sound Card: Onboard HD 7.1 Audio OR Creative SoundBlaster Z
> Operating System: Windows8Pro 64bit
> 
> Was going for a X79 Sabertooth, and then was considering the newer Delux for £10 more,
> but the Rampage IV Black won me with the OC external device and fetures.
> Not sure if worth £100 more though, especially if X99 are on way
> 
> (sorry if spouting rubbish, im slowly picking up stuff last couple month as research build. Been away from the game for 8 years, and yearning for an incredible rig. But dont want it to be 'out of date' by the time i have paid for it. Im likely to keep this for years, but want the room to expand as I go. Dont want to be shelling out for new system in 2-5yrs time. Using it for gaming, HD video editing, some 3d, progressing into Unity)


here:
Memory: 16-32GB Corsair DDR3 1866MHz C10 Quad Channel Memory Kit (2-4 x 8GB)

If you buy 2 kit that are not matched by Corsair you might end up having to run them at 1600.


----------



## skupples

This board is tiny. It is the same size as the Asus LGA1155 & 1150 boards.


----------



## nickolp1974

anything else i can do to tune my RAM??? normally just set VTT/SA too 1.25v but its rock solid as is.

http://s636.photobucket.com/user/nickolp1974/media/a64_zpsfe1e1f4d.png.html


----------



## nickolp1974

bit of an improvement

http://s636.photobucket.com/user/nickolp1974/media/ai64_zps8189c156.png.html


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> I have a RAID 5 set on the Intel connectors.
> 
> Is it a good idea to put the primary boot (Windows 8.1 Pro) on the Asmedia ports?
> 
> Samsung SSD Magician does not see the interface and a few of the options are greyed out because it's not on AHCI.


I have a Intel ssd on the asmedia port, works fine

not sure if it would perform better on the Intel ports..


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Thanks for the tip Cadaveca.
> I reapplied my changed from a clean F5 and the memory speed is back. almost looks like the save/restore OC profile is messing things up. It do power off the flick the switch on the PSU, hit power button to flush the capacitors between runs so it still fells like there's some voodo dance missing.
> 
> btw, which water chiller you got? the Koolance EXC-800?


I have a self-made chiller I converted from a frozen drink machine I got out of a restaurant. It was just a matter of getting it properly filled and tuned for the load, and the built-in reservoir and "churning" mechanism helps disperse the heat through the liquid in the res. I don't run it often, since it's noisy as can be, and therefore, banished to the garage.


----------



## webhito

Might not be the right place but I am sure someone here has the answer since pretty much everyone has their systems watercooled. How much temperature will a gpu add to the loop? My idle temps were under 30, added a 290x and now its a tad over 40, is this normal? I did change my cpu waterblock so it is possible that it might need a reseating... Radiator wise its the same mcr360qp swiftech thin radiator. Just want to know so i can figure out what approach I need to do next, either a new rad or reseat the cpu waterblock.

Thanks as always =).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> Might not be the right place but I am sure someone here has the answer since pretty much everyone has their systems watercooled. How much temperature will a gpu add to the loop? My idle temps were under 30, added a 290x and now its a tad over 40, is this normal? I did change my cpu waterblock so it is possible that it might need a reseating... Radiator wise its the same mcr360qp swiftech thin radiator. Just want to know so i can figure out what approach I need to do next, either a new rad or reseat the cpu waterblock.
> 
> Thanks as always =).


sounds normal, that is alota heat for just a 360

on my cpu alone i have 720 rad space and i may have another rad hidden tbh idr


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds normal, that is alota heat for just a 360
> 
> on my cpu alone i have 720 rad space and i may have another rad hidden tbh idr


Thanks Megaman, I know I need more rads but my hafx doesnt have a whole lot of space lol.


----------



## webhito

Btw how hot does the southbridge work? It seems to be the only part from my pc that is generating lots of heat, has anyone noticed this?


----------



## Zimzoid

Can someone help please with a problem, my system won't start it just starts and then stops every few seconds and won't allow me to enter the bios, so far I've tried clearing the cmos and changing to bios 2 and still the same thing, this started after testing an oc of 4.5 ran 3dmark11 and got a bluescreen (win8.1) and the pc shut down, unto now everything has been running cool and stable..starting to get a little worried here
Sorry forgot to add getting code 00 and cpu led is red


----------



## doctakedooty

Can I not do offset voltage with BCLK? I tried offset for core and it won't post but if I set the manual voltage it boots right up and passes a few small stability test.


----------



## icebrain1

Anyone mind giving me some info.
I got my CPU OC to 4.7 using 1.35V on a 4820k
and my ram just running at the XMP profile 2400mhz 32gb 4x8 (Did Not touch the ram timing or anything yet other than the XMP)
running on an Asus rampage IV black edition. and a corsair h100i in push pull.
Btw is this a good or bad OC. my temps (in real temp) are about 55-60c under load.

Anyways my questions are,
when at stock clocks CPU-Z shows my cpu voltages and multipliers adjusting based on usage (So at idle it says something like 1 volt and 1.6ghz at load it says 3.9ghz and 1.23v).
but when i do my overclock the cpu voltage changes very little and the ghz is stuck at 4.7 and the only thing that changes at idle and under load is the temperature.
Is there any way i can have the high overclock and keep it adjusting based on load so i can have the OC running 24/7.

Off topic sorry, but i am wandering about temperature monitoring.
My OC panel states that my OCed temp is 44c but Real temp states my temp to be between 50-63.
I read somewhere that there is a way to get more accurate readings using small fft,s and stuff in prime 95 (I don't have a temperature probe so i mean using software).
Could anyone tell me how to do this or post a link to a guide?

Thanks OC,ers.








I posted this on the I7 4820 overclock club but did int get any reply's.
Thanks.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icebrain1*
> 
> Anyone mind giving me some info.
> I got my CPU OC to 4.7 using 1.35V on a 4820k
> and my ram just running at the XMP profile 2400mhz 32gb 4x8 (Did Not touch the ram timing or anything yet other than the XMP)
> running on an Asus rampage IV black edition. and a corsair h100i in push pull.
> Btw is this a good or bad OC. my temps (in real temp) are about 55-60c under load.
> 
> Anyways my questions are,
> when at stock clocks CPU-Z shows my cpu voltages and multipliers adjusting based on usage (So at idle it says something like 1 volt and 1.6ghz at load it says 3.9ghz and 1.23v).
> but when i do my overclock the cpu voltage changes very little and the ghz is stuck at 4.7 and the only thing that changes at idle and under load is the temperature.
> Is there any way i can have the high overclock and keep it adjusting based on load so i can have the OC running 24/7.
> 
> Off topic sorry, but i am wandering about temperature monitoring.
> My OC panel states that my OCed temp is 44c but Real temp states my temp to be between 50-63.
> I read somewhere that there is a way to get more accurate readings using small fft,s and stuff in prime 95 (I don't have a temperature probe so i mean using software).
> Could anyone tell me how to do this or post a link to a guide?
> 
> Thanks OC,ers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I posted this on the I7 4820 overclock club but did int get any reply's.
> Thanks.


Make sure you are using offset voltage for vcore and not manual. Also while in bios click on cpu settings and there should be a option for intel speedstep make sure that is enabled. Boot into windows go to power settings under you power profile click advance settings scroll down to processor state and under minimum make sure its like 1% or 5% or something so it will allow it to down clock while not under load.


----------



## icebrain1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Make sure you are using offset voltage for vcore and not manual. Also while in bios click on cpu settings and there should be a option for intel speedstep make sure that is enabled. Boot into windows go to power settings under you power profile click advance settings scroll down to processor state and under minimum make sure its like 1% or 5% or something so it will allow it to down clock while not under load.


Great thanks.
I'll let you know how it turns out TY.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Can I not do offset voltage with BCLK? I tried offset for core and it won't post but if I set the manual voltage it boots right up and passes a few small stability test.


yes it works - I run a 103 bclk while using offset (and turbo) voltage settings. Be sure to have strap on Auto if you change teh bclk when using Offset. Also, if you leave turbo on auto, the vcore will run high. Set additional turbo to a value... for 46x100 I run +5mV and +20mV, LLC high.

In windows you can set min proc state to 0%


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yes it works - I run a 103 bclk while using offset (and turbo) voltage settings. Be sure to have strap on Auto if you change teh bclk when using Offset. Also, if you leave turbo on auto, the vcore will run high. Set additional turbo to a value... for 46x100 I run +5mV and +20mV, LLC high.
> 
> In windows you can set min proc state to 0%


It may be that then the fact I set strap to 125 vs auto. Also the additional turbo value. For lets say 5 mv am I just suppose to put a 5 or do I put something like .005


----------



## cadaveca

.005V.









I'm working through offset OC right now myself. Manual is just so much easier, honestly, since each multi has it's own VID, and so offset testing of each multi is rather...well.. complicated.







LuLz.

Also worth noting is that the Intel LAN driver doesn't like Acronis in Win8.1. I had LAN/SATA issues with my first board, and now I have the same problems. I use Acronis to image over my testing OS, am now using OS without Acronis and have no problems. Confirmed by going back to other drive, problems re-appear.

Not sure if the Crucial M4 firmware is partially at fault or what... still investigating.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> It may be that then the fact I set strap to 125 vs auto. Also the additional turbo value. For lets say 5 mv am I just suppose to put a 5 or do I put something like .005


Whoa! 5mV = 0.005V. Your Bios is in Volts. a "5" would have been catastrophic! If you want to use straps higher than 125, enter the bclk number (eg 129) and leave Strap on auto. you need to Enable turbo, and then change Additional Turbo Voltage to a value other than Auto. Leaving it on auto essentially has no ceiling on th eadded turbo. So, put a limit. Again - for 46x100 I use 5/20 (off/turbo). For 48x100 I use 10/84 (offset/turbo). At 46 if I leave turbo on auto it loads to 1.36V, 5/20 is 1.296V p95 stable!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> .005V.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm working through offset OC right now myself. Manual is just so much easier, honestly, since each multi has it's own VID, and so offset testing of each multi is rather...well.. complicated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LuLz.


Yeah - you really should ignore the VID when using Offset - it's kinda irrelevant.
Manual is easier... since it also defeats a decade of R&D at Intel leading to speedstep and dynamic voltage control. But a fixed vcore still works fine.








I'm a complete convert. Love seeing my chips idle at 0.864V









What I have to get around to is Offset OC using 125 strap... haven't done that yet.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Yeah - you really should ignore the VID when using Offset - it's kinda irrelevant.


Uh...actually it's TOTALLYY relevant..that Offset is set based on the VID...







So an offset that gives you 1.25V @ 4.5 GHz, is likely to give you LESS @ 44, and MORE @ 46.

Using BCLK and up to 36 multiplier wouldn't show this really...but 100 BCLK, and using turbo multis...would. VID in Turbo mode adjusts both according to multi, and according to workload (1-to-6 cores).


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> .005V.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm working through offset OC right now myself. Manual is just so much easier, honestly, since each multi has it's own VID, and so offset testing of each multi is rather...well.. complicated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LuLz.
> Also worth noting is that the Intel LAN driver doesn't like Acronis in Win8.1. I had LAN/SATA issues with my first board, and now I have the same problems. I use Acronis to image over my testing OS, am now using OS without Acronis and have no problems. Confirmed by going back to other drive, problems re-appear.
> Not sure if the Crucial M4 firmware is partially at fault or what... still investigating.


Here's some bios screenies I sent to a user the other day. And the link to a post from a few weeks ago:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/1110#post_22022831





edit: mem timings


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Uh...actually it's TOTALLYY relevant..that Offset is set based on the VID...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an offset that gives you 1.25V @ 4.5 GHz, is likely to give you LESS @ 44, and MORE @ 46.
> Using BCLK and up to 36 multiplier wouldn't show this really...but 100 BCLK, and using turbo multis...would. VID in Turbo mode adjusts both according to multi, and according to workload (1-to-6 cores).


Sure, that is what the offset is relative to ... what you will find is that as you set values in offset and additional turbo voltage the reported VID will change - strangely enough. Hotrod first noticed this, but i didn't believe him... yup, it does in realtemp. That is the issue, not the VID load line changing, but what we read it with in the OS is incorrect. So.. just ignore it if you are using realtemp or HWM to read it from the chip. I don;t remember my 2700K doing this... it's been at 46-48x via offset since they launched the cpu.

For Offfset. as you lower the multiplier, you WILL need to lower the offset voltages and vis-versa by more (or less) than the stock mV/MHz loadline.. Give it a try. For this chip. the VID at 46x is 1.311.. fully stable at 1.29. For 48 the LL is 1.39-1.4, fully stable at 1.376V


----------



## cadaveca

Yeah, I don't use software for voltages, ever. ASUS includes read points for good reason!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, I don't use software for voltages, ever. ASUS includes read points for good reason!


I wasn't talking about reading the voltages.. you were referring to the VID (loadline of the chip) No read points for that. And yes - any voltages I mentioned above are read from the mobo read points (which read low compared to the cap solder points on the back of the mobo,







)

not confusing vcore and VID...


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Can someone help please with a problem, my system won't start it just starts and then stops every few seconds and won't allow me to enter the bios, so far I've tried clearing the cmos and changing to bios 2 and still the same thing, this started after testing an oc of 4.5 ran 3dmark11 and got a bluescreen (win8.1) and the pc shut down, unto now everything has been running cool and stable..starting to get a little worried here
> Sorry forgot to add getting code 00 and cpu led is red


Well from what I've been reading looks like a dead cpu, not sure how this happened everything has been working great and stable and have no issues with my H110, started rma process on the cpu yesterday sure hope it just the cpu that's damaged.. Everything seems to power up the mb all fans/pump working all the usual leds just the red cpu led and the code 00. Wish I had a spare cpu to test but don't so no pc/gaming for me for a fews:thumbsdow


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> not confusing vcore and VID...


Better to just get that out there so there is no confusion.









Anyway, I think using manual to find stable for a given multi, and then using offset once you know what voltage you need...can save a bit of time. While for benching, OFFSET tweaking is simply too much work to be worth the effort, but should be how it's done for 24/7 IMHO.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icebrain1*
> 
> Anyone mind giving me some info.
> I got my CPU OC to 4.7 using 1.35V on a 4820k
> and my ram just running at the XMP profile 2400mhz 32gb 4x8 (Did Not touch the ram timing or anything yet other than the XMP)
> running on an Asus rampage IV black edition. and a corsair h100i in push pull.
> Btw is this a good or bad OC


It depends on your chip right now I'm clocked at 4.6 with 1.270v in bios and I am pretty stable so far. I haven't tested 4.7 yet. But at 4.8 @1.410 I was 3 hour AIDA64 stable. For my chip I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to at least go 1.3v. My rig is below. My temps are about the same as yours even at [email protected] my temps were still in high 60's. Hopefully sometime this coming week I can start ocing again. I'm going to try some different approaches. Keep in touch let me know how you turn out and ill do the same.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Better to just get that out there so there is no confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I think using manual to find stable for a given multi, and then using offset once you know what voltage you need...can save a bit of time. While for benching, OFFSET tweaking is simply too much work to be worth the effort, but should be how it's done for 24/7 IMHO.


that pretty much the going reasoning... however, all the benchmarks i posted here and on hwbot are with offset oc. mind you, I'm not subzero on this rig.


----------



## Papuz

I want to change my P9x79E-WS with RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION
What do you think?

It works perfectly but:
is compatible with few ram
has problems with GTX 780 sli
the RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION is better aesthetically

perhaps, but the panel oc and bios update is run better, you tell me

I have a 4930k and a short step 2 sli 780ti full watercoolin


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papuz*
> 
> I want to change my P9x79E-WS with RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION
> What do you think?
> It works perfectly but:
> is compatible with few ram
> has problems with GTX 780 sli
> the RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION is better aesthetically
> perhaps, but the panel oc and bios update is run better, you tell me
> I have a 4930k and a short step 2 sli 780ti full watercoolin


I was running a p9x79E-WS up until a few months ago... it is a fantastic board. What ram problems? I ran Kingston hyperX 2400 c11, GSkill 2666c11, and GSkill 2400c9 (anywhere between 2133 and 2666) without problems. A 3930K and a 4930K. I actually had better clocks on the x79ews with the 3930K than with my R4BE, but that's likely due to time in the socket







and bios. The E-WS is a rock solid mobo imo.

As for the 780 Sli... what's the problem. It carried my Titans, 780 Ti Classifieds and a r290X just fine. Describe the issue.

OC Panel? I sold mine on ebay. Don't need (or want) it.
Aesthetics? A personal call.


----------



## skupples

The Asus WS board should have zero issues with SLI. It is likely PEBKAC, IE something we can help you resolve.


----------



## Papuz

In the section P9X79E-WS nobody has been able to use more than 1866 now I have 3 way sli evga 580 3gb, often captivates the screen or I get the message failed OC, is struggling to maintain this XMP, the problem is that I do not I've never done OC, being inexperienced and I ended the one week a go the liquid cooling system and do not have much time these days to learn OC, It's a new world for me I still have to learn how to make good OC.
the problem with GTX 780 say it doesn't maintain Gen3

My PC:

MB: P9X79E-WS
CPU: 4930k
GPU: sli 3 way EVGA GTx 580 3gb
Ram: Corsair Dominator Platinum Series DDR3-1600, CL9 - CMD32GX3M4A1600C9 CL 9-9-9-24
PSU: Corsair AX1200i

Watercoling EK WB and XSPC radiators 420+ 280 +280

is not finished yet


----------



## Ajay57

Me i would not bother with the XMP, just enter the values by hand into the Ram Section, also same with the DDR3-1600!!

Just scroll down this list of Ram Timings and Enter, its just that some Ram is best to enter things yourself.





Best of luck!!

AJ.


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Me i would not bother with the XMP, just enter the values by hand into the Ram Section, also same with the DDR3-1600!!
> 
> Just scroll down this list of Ram Timings and Enter, its just that some Ram is best to enter things yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck!!
> 
> AJ.


I have tried both XMP and manual with a couple different sets of Corsair ram and it didn't seem to make a difference either way, I just set the XMP now all the time and have no issues


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Beta UEFI based on 0602. Only change OCP threshold to 160% at default for higher leakage CPUs (no other change).
> 
> https://www.mediafire.com/?cimhzhv6wodixa3


OK, so got some pretty extensive testing done.

This BIOS, for my "good" chip...sucks. Get BSOD's from cold boot.

For the "bad" chip, works great.

Inrush inertia setting makes a difference now on the good chip, too.

Does that make sense? Is that what you expected me to find?

Otherwise...not much else I can say, everything else works fine. Given that my "bad" chip is ES, and retail are typically better than ES, I totally feel where you were coming from before. So thanks very much for getting this BIOS for me to try and learn with. It's the support like that that keeps us ASUS fans sticking to the brand!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> OK, so got some pretty extensive testing done.
> 
> This BIOS, for my "good" chip...sucks. Get BSOD's from cold boot.
> 
> For the "bad" chip, works great.
> 
> Inrush inertia setting makes a difference now on the good chip, too.
> 
> Does that make sense? Is that what you expected me to find?
> 
> Otherwise...not much else I can say, everything else works fine. Given that my "bad" chip is ES, and retail are typically better than ES, I totally feel where you were coming from before. So thanks very much for getting this BIOS for me to try and learn with. It's the support like that that keeps us ASUS fans sticking to the brand!


Hi,

The OCP setting does not generate BSODs so something else going on there.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> I have tried both XMP and manual with a couple different sets of Corsair ram and it didn't seem to make a difference either way, I just set the XMP now all the time and have no issues


As Members have said in the past each to there own method that there happy and comfortable with, i have always done mine by hand and tweaked the timings as well.

But it could help someone on here that is having certain problems, that's what its all about!!

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> The OCP setting does not generate BSODs so something else going on there.


Thanks for the fast response!









Well, at least the bad chip is now working. I guess it's time to replace the "good" one.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Me i *would not bother with the XMP, just enter the values by hand into the Ram Section*, also same with the DDR3-1600!!
> 
> Just scroll down this list of Ram Timings and Enter, its just that some Ram is best to enter things yourself.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck!!
> AJ.


That is the best way!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papuz*
> 
> *In the section P9X79E-WS nobody has been able to use more than 1866* now I have 3 way sli evga 580 3gb, often captivates the screen or I get the message failed OC, is struggling to maintain this XMP, the problem is that I do not I've never done OC, being inexperienced and I ended the one week a go the liquid cooling system and do not have much time these days to learn OC, It's a new world for me I still have to learn how to make good OC.
> the problem with GTX 780 say it doesn't maintain Gen3
> My PC:
> MB: P9X79E-WS
> CPU: 4930k
> GPU: sli 3 way EVGA GTx 580 3gb
> Ram: Corsair Dominator Platinum Series DDR3-1600, CL9 - CMD32GX3M4A1600C9 CL 9-9-9-24
> PSU: Corsair AX1200i
> Watercoling EK WB and XSPC radiators 420+ 280 +280
> is not finished yet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well, that certainly says something









The E-WS runs Gen3 just fine multiple cards. You have some settings wrong somewhere.

The E-WS will run 2133 easily, as well as 2400. However, I was using 2400MHz ram sticks... here's a few pics:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Are you saying you can't get your 1600 ram to run 1866 or higher?


----------



## Papuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Well, that certainly says something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The E-WS runs Gen3 just fine multiple cards. You have some settings wrong somewhere.
> 
> The E-WS will run 2133 easily, as well as 2400. However, I was using 2400MHz ram sticks... here's a few pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you saying you can't get your 1600 ram to run 1866 or higher?


I pick all my words.
I do not know why but I want the black edition,
To run in 2133 and 2400 I have to use only the recommended RAM and do OC? But I need at least 32gb
thanks for everything


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papuz*
> 
> I pick all my words.
> I do not know why but I want the black edition,
> To run in 2133 and 2400 I have to use only the recommended RAM and do OC? But I need at least 32gb
> thanks for everything


32GB of ram will be trouble for either mobo to OC... but you want it, .. buy it. won't be disappointed.


----------



## sidekisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papuz*
> 
> I pick all my words.
> I do not know why but I want the black edition,
> To run in 2133 and 2400 I have to use only the recommended RAM and do OC? But I need at least 32gb
> thanks for everything


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 32GB of ram will be trouble for either mobo to OC... but you want it, .. buy it. won't be disappointed.


I have 32 Gig of Corsair Dom 2666 running at 2666 and my overclocking seems to work quit nicely.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidekisk*
> 
> I have 32 Gig of Corsair Dom 2666 running at 2666 and my overclocking seems to work quit nicely.


that's very good. Seems more have trouble with that amount of ram than don't.








His question is about taking 1600 to 2133 and higher on the two mobos... I think.


----------



## sidekisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> that's very good. Seems more have trouble with that amount of ram than don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His question is about taking 1600 to 2133 and higher on the two mobos... I think.


I guess I need to learn to read better, hehe.


----------



## Zimzoid

Thanks a bunch guys for the help with my problem


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Since most in this threat have the Rampage IV Black, i guess most have the 1200i psu as well? I also guess some have sleeved them

Now. the question is:
How many meters of sleeving does the 1200i requires to get ALL its cables sleeved? (want to have enough for when the 3rd card etc gets added)

I am thinking of sleeving the thing with a Black'n'Blue theme. (Dark blue).

//S1lv3r


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Since most in this threat have the Rampage IV Black, i guess most have the 1200i psu as well? I also guess some have sleeved them
> 
> Now. the question is:
> How many meters of sleeving does the 1200i requires to get ALL its cables sleeved? (want to have enough for when the 3rd card etc gets added)
> 
> I am thinking of sleeving the thing with a Black'n'Blue theme. (Dark blue).
> 
> 
> //S1lv3r


I try to avoid corsair PSUs as much as possible. I much rather go straight to the source via buying seasonic. I don't even think the i series is seasonic anymore. I use EVGA PSUs.









The sleeving thread should have an estimate of how much you need, in the original post.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I try to avoid corsair PSUs as much as possible. I much rather go straight to the source via buying seasonic. I don't even think the i series is seasonic anymore. I use EVGA PSUs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sleeving thread should have an estimate of how much you need, in the original post.


Already got the psu soo.

What threat?


----------



## Shadowarez

I have the 1500watt Evga Super Nova Nex workin fine software is useless doesnt let you change anything. But over all great psu only took 4 months of waiting after I paid for it to arrive. Now its discontinued and has a 10yr warranty lol.


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## Papuz

On Black Edition not on E-WS, I have E-WS


----------



## Papuz

my question was to put 2400 2133 on E-WS with at least 32gb of ram, if I can't I will go to Black edition


----------



## kungowe

Hi everyone!

I have a strange question that someone maybe can help me with..
I want to use a high end aircooler on my RIVBE since my AIO just gave in. But the first pcie slot is to close to the cpu socket for a cooler with big heatsink. So I am wondering if it is possible to use the 2:nd and the 4:th pcie slot for my sli configuration instead of slot 1 and 3? This would free up space for my heatsink. I know this is really stupid and that the bandwidth will only be 8x but I don't think that would limit my gtx 780 ti anyway..

So do you think this is possible? I'm thankfull for any thoughts on this!
//D


----------



## kpoeticg

It would probly work. 2 & 4 are the worst slots to use though, as you already know.

I'm not sure what the actual performance difference would be with using either just one 780TI in slot 3, or SLI in 2 & 4.


----------



## tistou77

For me, bios 0602 requires more vcore as 0507.
It will be the same with the 0055 beta, I suppose?


----------



## Shadowarez

Probably as the only thing they put in change log is improved stability nothing else.if I never touched a update id have been fine. Now feels like updating my bios has run my mobo through Gross and Infected std ally. In short bios update screwed up a perfectly running comp almost feel like Rmaing board because its so terrible.

Prior to update my system ran everything fine. My Vcore was 1.29v I was at 4.8ghz idle temps were 17c-25c load was 32c-48c now idle is 31c-38c load is 48-54. I will never update bios again unless its bringing new cpu to board.

Can Usb flashback reflash shipping firmware or least first bios the board came with?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papuz*
> 
> my question was to put 2400 2133 on E-WS with at least 32gb of ram, if I can't I will go to Black edition


like i previously replied, I've run 2133 and 2400 (only 16GB) on my E-WS no problem. It's not really a mobo issue for 32GB, more related to the CPU IMC. You know you want the R4BE... just get it!.


----------



## skupples

Don't fix what's not broken.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> For me, bios 0602 requires more vcore as 0507.
> It will be the same with the 0055 beta, I suppose?


Don't bother with 0055 beta..it's 0602 with "AUTO" setting for CPU current a bit higher. I find that MFR-based DIMMS don't clock as well, either, but I am at the point now that I have done enough LN2 runs on this board that probably half my hardware is a bit screwy.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Don't fix what's not broken.


Yeah i said this the other day and nearly caused a Riot on here Skupp!!!

At the moment i find the 0507 Bios works really well for me, and with some more fine tweaking of late i have managed to lower my Vcore some more.

Which to me is just great, so thumbs up to that.

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## skupples

my results are the same on both the release & the 602... I haven't spent THAT much time minmaxing though.


----------



## Ajay57

As you would agree its how you have it set up, not everyone has the know how like you and some others on here!!

Its taken me some time to get the best out of my Mobo + CPU here since i purchased things, it kinda does not happen over night.

Like some i see and read about on here, they tend to talk RMA before reading and studying on the Net to find the correct answers!!

Best not say too much else someone will kinda get up set again lol!!









Regards,

AJ.,


----------



## skupples

There is a reason why the RMA line is backed up by months, and i doubt it is hardware defect.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> As you would agree its how you have it set up, not everyone has the know how like you and some others on here!!
> 
> Its taken me some time to get the best out of my Mobo + CPU here since i purchased things, it kinda does not happen over night.
> 
> Like some i see and read about on here, they tend to talk RMA before reading and studying on the Net to find the correct answers!!
> 
> Best not say too much else someone will kinda get up set again lol!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.,


Unless you're coming from a RIVE to this board, took me one night to set up and with overclock too.


----------



## skupples

Not everyone is a seasoned overclocker.


----------



## Ftimster

Any one still on 403?? I am and still running strong!! Tryed 50..whatever and crash crash.....


----------



## Shadowarez

Can flashback be used to put 403 back onboard? Tried but it blinks few times then stops.


----------



## Ajay57

Try using a USB Flash Drive plugged into a 2.0 port. Just download the Bios File unzip it, and place it onto the Flash Drive. Next place this into a 2.0 port then switch on your screen and PC.
Then open up your Bios and go to the Bios section where you can flash your bios. Select the File and it will tell you what to do next.

Just make sure your USB Thumb drive is formatted to Fat32 else the above will not work at all.

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> There is a reason why the RMA line is backed up by months, and i doubt it is hardware defect.


agreed, in my industry everyone likes to point at the most complicated thing because they dont understand it same thing apears here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> As you would agree its how you have it set up, not everyone has the know how like you and some others on here!!
> 
> Its taken me some time to get the best out of my Mobo + CPU here since i purchased things, it kinda does not happen over night.
> 
> Like some i see and read about on here, they tend to talk RMA before reading and studying on the Net to find the correct answers!!
> 
> Best not say too much else someone will kinda get up set again lol!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.,
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you're coming from a RIVE to this board, took me one night to set up and with overclock too.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not everyone is a seasoned overclocker.


hehe i came from amd and i got it without issue only about 2 hours ocing as well.


----------



## Shadowarez

Thats what it was like for me did some research tried settings and i was up running at 4.8ghz with 1.29vcore. Now it feels like my board is on a endless rager and no setting will appease it. Iv tried the rog button on bak of the board ill try another usb2 port see if it makes a diferance.


----------



## xarot

Suggestions?









I got a 3970X to play with, I did some stress testing at 4.7 - 4.8 GHz just fine, then figured I want to test this at stock since I bought it as second hand. Previous CPU was 4960X.

Now whatever settings I apply, the CPU throttles to 3.4 - 3.5 GHz under Prime95. AFAIK lowest multi for 3970X is 35, not 34.







Cannot even OC anymore...the OC settings apply when I am at idle, but under stress it immediately throttles.

I flashed old BIOS back but that didn't help either. Power options do nothing (CC, LLC, long/short duration power limit, Windows CPU minimum power state...).. Funny thing is that once I load up TurboV Core it says I am using multiplier 267. Corrupted BIOS? I did a BIOS flash back and it didn't help.

Maybe it's time to fire this thing up on my old trusty RIVE? Seen some throttling on RIVE due to VRM overheating, but nothing like this which happens immediately.

Edit. Figured it out. It's still about the short/long duration power limit in BIOS. It's amazing that ASUS BIOS team has not fixed this yet?


----------



## tistou77

Back to the 0507 bios for me, compared to the 0602 bios, no variation of vcore idle/load (with the same settings)
With 0602, forced to mount the vcore to be stable and have a problem of cold boot if the vcore is not increased

I hope that Asus will be the next bios based on the 0507 and not on the 0602


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Back to the 0507 bios for me, compared to the 0602 bios, no variation of vcore idle/load (with the same settings)
> With 0602, forced to mount the vcore to be stable and have a problem of cold boot if the vcore is not increased
> 
> I hope that Asus will be the next bios based on the 0507 and not on the 0602


It's just a current sense change - so I would not worry about these Vcore compares. Set the voltage the CPU needs to be stable. You cannot see the peak undershoot or overshoot without a scope - don't rely on software or DMM for such things. The future builds will be based on the 0602 release.


----------



## Shadowarez

Damn so id best head over to rog ask them to mod the 0403 bios,miss the super cool temps i used to be able to run crysis 1-3 ultra details 4.8ghz max temp was 41c..


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> It's just a current sense change - so I would not worry about these Vcore compares. Set the voltage the CPU needs to be stable. You cannot see the peak undershoot or overshoot without a scope - don't rely on software or DMM for such things. The future builds will be based on the 0602 release.


Comparing 0507 and 0602 (same settings, LLC High)

With the 0507:

Bios Vcore: 1.26v
Vcore read bios and windows (idle / load): 1.264v
stable bench (LinX, etc ...) and no problem of cold boot

With these settings and the 0602, the bench is not stable, and I'm having problems with cold boot

I must put these settings

Bios Vcore: 1.27v
Vcore read bios and windows, idle: 1.28v, load: 1.264v
to be stable bench and no problem of cold boot

I don't understand why the 0602 bios and the next, it needs more vcore
New policy of Asus?

After I was accustomed to bios of Shamino, best/optimized every time
Here it is the opposite


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Comparing 0507 and 0602 (same settings, LLC High)
> 
> With the 0507:
> 
> Bios Vcore: 1.26v
> Vcore read bios and windows (idle / load): 1.264v
> stable bench (LinX, etc ...) and no problem of cold boot
> 
> With these settings and the 0602, the bench is not stable, and I'm having problems with cold boot
> 
> I must put these settings
> 
> Bios Vcore: 1.27v
> Vcore read bios and windows, idle: 1.28v, load: 1.264v
> to be stable bench and no problem of cold boot
> 
> I don't understand why the 0602 bios and the next, it needs more vcore
> New policy of Asus?
> 
> After I was accustomed to bios of Shamino, best/optimized every time
> Here it is the opposite


This is probably a bit past your understanding but here goes:

You are forgetting that Vcore on its own means nothing - it the current the CPU draws with Vcore that matters. As there was a regulation and current sensing change, the Vcore needs adjustment to ensure the CPU gets the current it needs to be stable.

In other words these Vcore compares you are making are meaningless because the current ramping (hence error correction) of the VRM has changed.

Set the Vcore the CPU needs on 0602 and be happy. Stop worrying about the Vocre change









Oh an BTW, maybe this will help put your finicky nature at rest - the Vcore current circuit is Shamino's idea


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> Any one still on 403?? I am and still running strong!! Tryed 50..whatever and crash crash.....


exactly what happened to me ..going strong on original bios!

I've always would go to the newest bios on all my other ASUS boards

but this one I'm using the old if it ant broke don't flash it .......lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Thats what it was like for me did some research tried settings and i was up running at 4.8ghz with 1.29vcore. Now it feels like my board is on a endless rager and no setting will appease it. Iv tried the rog button on bak of the board ill try another usb2 port see if it makes a diferance.


If i'm not mistaken... The board is equipped with dual-bios, & I don't think both of them are flashed @ the same time. There is a little bios switch in the South east corner of the board between the fan headers and "ROG EXT"


----------



## Shadowarez

Tried that after I flashed main bios. Had all these issues I switched to 2nd bios booted up it updated 2nd bios didnt have a choise if I wanted to or not I-ROG 1-2 updated before I could test original bios.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raj[email protected]*
> 
> This is probably a bit past your understanding but here goes:
> 
> You are forgetting that Vcore on its own means nothing - it the current the CPU draws with Vcore that matters. As there was a regulation and current sensing change, the Vcore needs adjustment to ensure the CPU gets the current it needs to be stable.
> 
> In other words these Vcore compares you are making are meaningless because the current ramping (hence error correction) of the VRM has changed.
> 
> Set the Vcore the CPU needs on 0602 and be happy. Stop worrying about the Vocre change
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh an BTW, maybe this will help put your finicky nature at rest - the Vcore current circuit is Shamino's idea


Indeed, I did not really understand









I see with 0602, to need more vcore to be stable (voltages taken multimeter)
I don't worry, I only noticed that with the 0602 it needs more vcore to be stable, there is not just me that has noticed and remains on the 403 or 507

At the moment, I stay with the 0507, which works very well with less vcore


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Indeed, I did not really understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see with 0602, to need more vcore to be stable (voltages taken multimeter)
> I don't worry, I only noticed that with the 0602 it needs more vcore to be stable, there is not just me that has noticed and remains on the 403 or 507
> 
> At the moment, I stay with the 0507, which works very well with less vcore


Power = voltage X amperage. That's what you need to get your head around. If there is a change in amperage, then voltage will need to be adjusted for same power target


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Tried that after I flashed main bios. Had all these issues I switched to 2nd bios booted up it updated 2nd bios didnt have a choise if I wanted to or not I-ROG 1-2 updated before I could test original bios.


If the two builds have different iROG firmware, then the iROG update process will take place every time you switch between them.

PS. The board should be left alone to perform that change - the microcontroller firmware and UEFI builds go hand in hand.


----------



## raw2dogmeat

My new setup...went from x58 to x79


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Indeed, I did not really understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see with 0602, to need more vcore to be stable (voltages taken multimeter)
> I don't worry, I only noticed that with the 0602 it needs more vcore to be stable, there is not just me that has noticed and remains on the 403 or 507
> 
> At the moment, I stay with the 0507, which works very well with less vcore


What Raja is saying is that if you check actual power pulled via 8-pin, you'll find it's the same (I have and it remains within 1-2 watts). The higher vcore is actually SAFER, since in the end, slightly less current is being applied at any given voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> If the two builds have different iROG firmware, then the iROG update process will take place every time you switch between them.
> 
> PS. The board should be left alone to perform that change - the microcontroller firmware and UEFI builds go hand in hand.


When I flashed to 0602, only ROG1 updated, and then I had those issues with my first board and LAN not working on cold boot. Back-flash to 0208, which updated ROG1 and ROG2, and LAN issues are fixed.

I also noted that Windows wasn't activated any more, and that my OS now loads much slower on desktop, with the CFOS software loading after the delay.

Is it possible the CFOS software was actually the culprit of my LAN issues?

That said, I'm back on my ES board, after flashing BIOS, everything is working again as it should, but now second board is a bit wonky.


----------



## [email protected]

I would not advise keeping two builds so far apart generally - if there are any ME updates or OROM changes can cause problems when flicking back and forth between them. Or there can be issues if the board is not stable when the updates are taking place.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> if there are any ME updates or OROM changes can cause problems when flicking back and forth between them.


No kidding.









I hear what you are saying...back to testing!









So..uh... flash BIOSes in succession is the best practice?


----------



## [email protected]

Not necessarily succession. If the ME or OROM has changed then going back to a build based on an older ME/OROM version may cause problems. The CPU microcode sometimes relies on various combos of firmware to work properly.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Comparing 0507 and 0602 (same settings, LLC High)
> 
> With the 0507:
> 
> Bios Vcore: 1.26v
> Vcore read bios and windows (idle / load): 1.264v
> stable bench (LinX, etc ...) and no problem of cold boot
> 
> With these settings and the 0602, the bench is not stable, and I'm having problems with cold boot
> 
> I must put these settings
> 
> Bios Vcore: 1.27v
> Vcore read bios and windows, idle: 1.28v, load: 1.264v
> to be stable bench and no problem of cold boot
> 
> I don't understand why the 0602 bios and the next, it needs more vcore
> New policy of Asus?
> 
> After I was accustomed to bios of Shamino, best/optimized every time
> Here it is the opposite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is probably a bit past your understanding but here goes:
> 
> You are forgetting that Vcore on its own means nothing - it the current the CPU draws with Vcore that matters. As there was a regulation and current sensing change, the Vcore needs adjustment to ensure the CPU gets the current it needs to be stable.
> 
> In other words these Vcore compares you are making are meaningless because the current ramping (hence error correction) of the VRM has changed.
> 
> Set the Vcore the CPU needs on 0602 and be happy. Stop worrying about the Vocre change
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh an BTW, maybe this will help put your finicky nature at rest - the Vcore current circuit is Shamino's idea
Click to expand...

makes perfect sense to me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raw2dogmeat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new setup...went from x58 to x79


welcome looks great !


----------



## Shadowarez

I reflashed 0403 and 2nd 0507 for 2nd to test im back down to 1.25 vcore 4.7ghz stable in prime.i went to rog asked on forum if they could mod 0403 with all latest drivers, also switched to 8.1 pro and a proper uefi install, only downside i noticed washed out graphics in games. But lil bit of tweaking im sure i can fix that.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I reflashed 0403 and 2nd 0507 for 2nd to test im back down to 1.25 vcore 4.7ghz stable in prime.i went to rog asked on forum if they could mod 0403 with all latest drivers, also switched to 8.1 pro and a proper uefi install, only downside i noticed washed out graphics in games. But lil bit of tweaking im sure i can fix that.


is that 1.25V vcore measured with a DMM or read from software?


----------



## jjonestemp

http://valid.x86.fr/n6uv6z
Finally got my board up and running (after 3 months in limbo waiting on parts)...
hoping to find some good advice on squeezing the most out of this cpu and the 2400 mhz ram,
but so far I can only get it showing in AI suite :-(


----------



## Shadowarez

From bios ill have to pickup a dmm from frozencpu to get more accurate readings for further testing. I set it in bios loaded win asus suite shows 1.25 but jumps to 1.28 under load,


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> From bios ill have to pickup a dmm from frozencpu to get more accurate readings for further testing. I set it in bios loaded win asus suite shows 1.25 but jumps to 1.28 under load,


Your local hardware store should have one, & at a much lower price than FCPU.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Has anyone used the new realbench v2 for stability testing yet?


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> What Raja is saying is that if you check actual power pulled via 8-pin, you'll find it's the same (I have and it remains within 1-2 watts). The higher vcore is actually SAFER, since in the end, slightly less current is being applied at any given voltage.


I understand, but I prefer to stay with a bios that works very well with less vcore


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> From bios ill have to pickup a dmm from frozencpu to get more accurate readings for further testing. I set it in bios loaded win asus suite shows 1.25 but jumps to 1.28 under load,
> 
> 
> 
> Your local hardware store should have one, & at a much lower price than FCPU.
Click to expand...

yes, or a auto store
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Has anyone used the new realbench v2 for stability testing yet?


extremely minimal load imo, fun bench but no fun on the stability testing


----------



## iPEN

Hi guys,

I have an issue with this mother board.

There are 2 USB ports that prevent my PC to shutdown. Even if I have the PC off with nothing plugged into them, it will turn on when I plug whatever on those ports, a mouse, a keyboard or even a simple USB cable.

These are the ports that I'm refering to:



I have thougth about a hardware issue; but if I uninstall the Asmedia USB3 driver the system shuts down properly and does not star automatically when I plug something in those ports.

I'm using the last version of Asmedia drivers available in ROG support page (16120), and the last BIOS available (602). I'm also using Windows 8.1 64 bit.

Thank you in advance


----------



## Shadowarez

Sounds like ai charger is taking over those ports. Its part of the ai suite software.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> I understand, but I prefer to stay with a bios that works very well with less vcore


The you don't understand


----------



## iPEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Sounds like ai charger is taking over those ports. Its part of the ai suite software.


Thank you!

I don't know if that was the case, but you gave me a good path to try. I have reinstalled the AI Suite and now the system appears to work properly, and those two USB ports don't prevent the PC to go shutdown anymore.

Anyway, this is something that scares me a bit. How can a software issue cause this kind of things? It seems that these high-end mobos leave too much services running in background after shutdown process...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> The_[n]_ you don't understand


^^ This.

Check the peak watts and temps, way too much focus on voltage (potential) vs current. 602 has been working fine for me with no significant change in settings vs 507.


----------



## Shadowarez

it was a thing gigabyte had as a gimmick but asus basicly improved on it i think, as with gigabyte it htink if you enabled it it only worked on usb 2 ports and would disable data use on those ports, but glad it worked,


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes, or a auto store
> extremely minimal load imo, fun bench but no fun on the stability testing


I can pass the benchmark fine but in the stress test Luxmark has been crashing a lot. I can pass Aida and Prime95 for an hour. IBT passes with 25 passes. And this crashes within the first 10 mins.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Holynacho*
> 
> 
> 
> Well finally got mine up and running. Should hold me over till Broadwell-E


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidekisk*
> 
> I still have yet to be added so I'm submitting this again just in case I forgot it the last time.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/qiyprm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> 
> 
> Count me in


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabishiihito*
> 
> It's not the board, it's the CPUs.


You know, when people randomly jump in and randomly state things, it really helps to give details and explanation else things like this will be ignored since we're here to learn not just shout. Just word of advice for future postings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Thanks a lot Raja!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidekisk*
> 
> Can you please add me. I thought I had submitted this before but I'm not seeing my name up there.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/qiyprm
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0x3d*
> 
> Can I be added to the club please? Loving my new board!


Sorry guys been super busy overtime at work due to migrations etc.

My board is pretty much hosed for now, so I use it @ base defaults when working from home, looking to get a 2nd computer on the side as ASUS doesn't support Advanced RMA's so gonna go with Gigabyte after this as I've never had issues w/ them for support. I just can't wait 2-3 weeks for a replacement, especially for how much we spend on this board its just nuts.

Anywhoo adding to the list.

I can't even get into windows anymore randomly the computer stopped working and I haven't gamed on it for aquite a while so just had it running @ 4.2 @ 2133 for ram. Now keyboard/mouse act up, sound goes out, everythings just quirky. After reseting Bios and rebooting, it just freezes in windows. I can get in safe mode but it freezes if I install video drivers after removing them, so something's definitely up. Gonna try selling my 4960X on ebay and just get a 4930k for the meantime and see how that goes.

Even if the board is on optimized Defaults it still comes up w/ OC failed even with nothing additional set so pretty much unsure of what to do. Setting anything loads Windows up with a black screen, safe mode works for a bit then freezes after a while, temps remain under 30 though.

Had a good time with it though, and as always there will be some of us that get defective hardware and others that get great, so no complains other than the service turnaround.

Adding the others to the list


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes, or a auto store
> extremely minimal load imo, fun bench but no fun on the stability testing
> 
> 
> 
> I can pass the benchmark fine but in the stress test Luxmark has been crashing a lot. I can pass Aida and Prime95 for an hour. IBT passes with 25 passes. And this crashes within the first 10 mins.
Click to expand...

you say you can pass ibt, are you using ibt avx or just ibt, if oyu dont know you are probably running ibt not avx, check the 83xx thread op for a download, make sure you run @ 90% memory usage for best results, same with prime, i dont use aida as imo it also does not stress enough
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sorry guys been super busy overtime at work due to migrations etc.
> 
> My board is pretty much hosed for now, so I use it @ base defaults when working from home, looking to get a 2nd computer on the side as ASUS doesn't support Advanced RMA's so gonna go with Gigabyte after this as I've never had issues w/ them for support. I just can't wait 2-3 weeks for a replacement, especially for how much we spend on this board its just nuts.
> 
> Anywhoo adding to the list.
> 
> I can't even get into windows anymore randomly the computer stopped working and I haven't gamed on it for aquite a while so just had it running @ 4.2 @ 2133 for ram. Now keyboard/mouse act up, sound goes out, everythings just quirky. After reseting Bios and rebooting, it just freezes in windows. I can get in safe mode but it freezes if I install video drivers after removing them, so something's definitely up. Gonna try selling my 4960X on ebay and just get a 4930k for the meantime and see how that goes.
> 
> Even if the board is on optimized Defaults it still comes up w/ OC failed even with nothing additional set so pretty much unsure of what to do. Setting anything loads Windows up with a black screen, safe mode works for a bit then freezes after a while, temps remain under 30 though.
> 
> Had a good time with it though, and as always there will be some of us that get defective hardware and others that get great, so no complains other than the service turnaround.
> 
> Adding the others to the list










not cool !~ stay with us over here on asus !


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you say you can pass ibt, are you using ibt avx or just ibt, if oyu dont know you are probably running ibt not avx, check the 83xx thread op for a download, make sure you run @ 90% memory usage for best results, same with prime, i dont use aida as imo it also does not stress enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not cool !~ stay with us over here on asus !


Check the what thread?


This is the IBT I was using.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you say you can pass ibt, are you using ibt avx or just ibt, if oyu dont know you are probably running ibt not avx, check the 83xx thread op for a download, make sure you run @ 90% memory usage for best results, same with prime, i dont use aida as imo it also does not stress enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not cool !~ stay with us over here on asus !
> 
> 
> 
> Check the what thread?
> 
> 
> This is the IBT I was using.
Click to expand...

there is no visual difference, you can tell by the gflops generally around double is avx

IBT AVX


----------



## xarot

I generally use this for stress testing with max memory. One pass takes something like +20 minutes with 32 GB RAM. If it's stable as long as I want or get no throttling, I move on to Prime95 27.9. I prefer the interface and it can better sync nearly all available memory into use unlike IBT which could run out of memory.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?201670-LinX-A-simple-Linpack-interface/page36

Latest update near end of the page.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Has anyone used the new realbench v2 for stability testing yet?


Yep,
I use cinebench first as a sighter, then i just run the 4th test on the real bench 2, takes all of 5 mins and my system is stable for what i need it for, i dont play P95 or IBT so whats the point in thrashing your cpu, unless you use apps of a similar nature


----------



## Shadowarez

anyone with my type of memory having this issue? i set cd to 1 in bios yet cpuz sees it as 3?Odd Memory report in cpuz


----------



## 4lek

Hi guys, May i join the club?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there is no visual difference, you can tell by the gflops generally around double is avx
> 
> IBT AVX




Well there is 25 passes of the IBT AVX. Ram was set to 90% usage. Thoughts?

As soon as I finished IBT I ran Real Bench V2 and at 4min luxmark crashed as well as Nvidia Video Driver.

My Reference GTX 780 was at Default specs.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there is no visual difference, you can tell by the gflops generally around double is avx
> 
> IBT AVX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there is 25 passes of the IBT AVX. Ram was set to 90% usage. Thoughts?
> 
> As soon as I finished IBT I ran Real Bench V2 and at 4min luxmark crashed as well as Nvidia Video Driver.
> 
> My Reference GTX 780 was at Default specs.
Click to expand...

just because your video card is at stock does not mean the driver can not fail.

have you tried other drivers ? if it were a cpu related issue you would have a BSOD

you are also not the only one i have heard with that issue and changing drivers has helped others


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 
> 
> Well there is 25 passes of the IBT AVX. Ram was set to 90% usage. Thoughts?
> 
> As soon as I finished IBT I ran Real Bench V2 and at 4min luxmark crashed as well as Nvidia Video Driver.
> 
> My Reference GTX 780 was at Default specs.


IBT really only tests your cooling solution IMO. open this

bluescreenview.zip 65k .zip file
 and post the bluescreen window. May be that the culprit is the vid drivers (the last thing to fail is not usually the cause of the BSOD.

try p95 custom with 5min/fft and 12288 ram (out of 16GB). If it does not fail a worker in 20-60min, it's probably not the cpu OC.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> Hi guys, May i join the club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes you may









Welcome


----------



## Ajay57

For testing i prefer to use P95 BLEND, which in my book will find any weakness in your system, as it use a Combo of CPU + RAM!!









For just testing the CPU then Small FFT's, this is good for finding you a stable Vcore when OCing!!









To qualify what i have said is i have tried others, which gave a pass mark then some random BSOD's, then once tested against P95 it shows up the problems much quicker.









So if your looking to find a rock steady system with the least amount of problems there is no getting away from PRIME 95!









Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> For testing i prefer to use P95 BLEND, which in my book will find any weakness in your system, as it use a Combo of CPU + RAM!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For just testing the CPU then Small FFT's, this is good for finding you a stable Vcore when OCing!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To qualify what i have said is i have tried others, which gave a pass mark then some random BSOD's, then once tested against P95 it shows up the problems much quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if your looking to find a rock steady system with the least amount of problems there is no getting away from PRIME 95!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


I haven't had a BSOD.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> IBT really only tests your cooling solution IMO. open this
> 
> bluescreenview.zip 65k .zip file
> and post the bluescreen window. May be that the culprit is the vid drivers (the last thing to fail is not usually the cause of the BSOD.
> 
> try p95 custom with 5min/fft and 12288 ram (out of 16GB). If it does not fail a worker in 20-60min, it's probably not the cpu OC.


I am running prime with your settings ATM. Will run for an hour and let you know.


----------



## Ajay57

OK Fine just letting the other members know whats out there and helpful to them if its needed!









AJ.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> IBT really only tests your cooling solution IMO. open this
> 
> bluescreenview.zip 65k .zip file
> and post the bluescreen window. May be that the culprit is the vid drivers (the last thing to fail is not usually the cause of the BSOD.
> 
> try p95 custom with 5min/fft and 12288 ram (out of 16GB). If it does not fail a worker in 20-60min, it's probably not the cpu OC.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> OK Fine just letting the other members know whats out there and helpful to them if its needed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


I appreciate it thanks for your input. I like getting different views!


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> IBT really only tests your cooling solution IMO. open this
> 
> bluescreenview.zip 65k .zip file
> and post the bluescreen window. May be that the culprit is the vid drivers (the last thing to fail is not usually the cause of the BSOD.
> 
> try p95 custom with 5min/fft and 12288 ram (out of 16GB). If it does not fail a worker in 20-60min, it's probably not the cpu OC.




There is almost a full hour of Prime95 with the settings that you suggested. All workers passed. I wonder what could cause the Realbench V2 to crash?. They system with my settings seem to be stable. Anymore things you guys would try? Or what should I look for to find the culprit?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> For testing i prefer to use P95 BLEND, which in my book will find any weakness in your system, as it use a Combo of CPU + RAM!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For just testing the CPU then Small FFT's, this is good for finding you a stable Vcore when OCing!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To qualify what i have said is i have tried others, which gave a pass mark then some random BSOD's, then once tested against P95 it shows up the problems much quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if your looking to find a rock steady system with the least amount of problems there is no getting away from PRIME 95!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully,
> AJ.


So, what I described is blend with setting 5 min/FFT. Covers more of the CPU/ram architecture quicker with all the FFT sizes..


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 
> 
> There is almost a full hour of Prime95 with the settings that you suggested. All workers passed. I wonder what could cause the Realbench V2 to crash?. They system with my settings seem to be stable. Anymore things you guys would try? Or what should I look for to find the culprit?


I really doubt your CPU OC is unstable. Clean out the vid drivers (completely with DDU for instance) and re-install.

A combination of R15, p95 and then some gaming should cover it. Also, you can try encoding a 1h video to DVD with Windows Movie Maker - it's actually a pretty good test of the ram too.








Don't worry about Real bench V2.


----------



## doctakedooty

So I got 4.6 stable on my 4930K software vcore reading is 1.34 vcore but multimeter on the board gives me 1.398 vcore. Does this sound about right for the voltage increase that the software is not reading.


----------



## Kimir

That much difference? I had 0.005v delta from my fluke and cpu-z on my last week test (on my R4E, not the BE).


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That much difference? I had 0.005v delta from my fluke and cpu-z on my last week test (on my R4E, not the BE).


Even at 4.5 bios set 1.24 the voltage read point on the board show 1.33 thats a pretty substantial difference in readings. My r4e would do 4.7 at 1.36 set in bios this board seems to take 1.34 vcore for 4.6 stable and 1.399 on voltage vcore read point.

Aisuite does show about a .015 vcore difference between cpuz I just cant believe the software the vcore read point is close to .1 volts difference


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 
> 
> Well there is 25 passes of the IBT AVX. Ram was set to 90% usage. Thoughts?
> 
> As soon as I finished IBT I ran Real Bench V2 and at 4min luxmark crashed as well as Nvidia Video Driver.
> 
> My Reference GTX 780 was at Default specs.
> 
> 
> 
> IBT really only tests your cooling solution IMO. open this
> 
> bluescreenview.zip 65k .zip file
> and post the bluescreen window. May be that the culprit is the vid drivers (the last thing to fail is not usually the cause of the BSOD.
> 
> try p95 custom with 5min/fft and 12288 ram (out of 16GB). If it does not fail a worker in 20-60min, it's probably not the cpu OC.
Click to expand...

as i stated before, it sounds like video card driver not CPU relates, and he didnt BSOD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> For testing i prefer to use P95 BLEND, which in my book will find any weakness in your system, as it use a Combo of CPU + RAM!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For just testing the CPU then Small FFT's, this is good for finding you a stable Vcore when OCing!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To qualify what i have said is i have tried others, which gave a pass mark then some random BSOD's, then once tested against P95 it shows up the problems much quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if your looking to find a rock steady system with the least amount of problems there is no getting away from PRIME 95!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


esp with these newer CPUs and ram becoming much larger that does not allow too much stress on the IMC you should test @ ~ 90% memory usage

also i would highly recommend ibt-avx first as it tends to be much faster, then follow up with prime, it has not failed me yet but ibt-avx has found issues prime has not, and vise versa


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Even at 4.5 bios set 1.24 the voltage read point on the board show 1.33 thats a pretty substantial difference in readings. My r4e would do 4.7 at 1.36 set in bios this board seems to take 1.34 vcore for 4.6 stable and 1.399 on voltage vcore read point.
> 
> Aisuite does show about a .015 vcore difference between cpuz I just cant believe the software the vcore read point is close to .1 volts difference


Are you using teh rog cpuZ download (latest version)? Largest diff I've seen is 10mV or so. What's your LLC at?


----------



## yttocstfarc

I will try the gpu driver. First I will use ddu then reinstall current drivers which are the latest from nvidia. If that doesn't work ill revert back to another driver. If it is as simple as a driver issue that would be great. I was just wanting to rule out ram and CPU instability. Since I was in the middle of overclocking and testing stability.
Honestly this all started with the stability testing of the CPU. I had already done testing with a variety of tests ( aida64, prime95, IBT, and they all passed. I was just trying to add another stress test into the mix to see if I was stable. When I encountered the problem with realbench v2. I thought that I might not have been fully stable.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So I got 4.6 stable on my 4930K software vcore reading is 1.34 vcore but multimeter on the board gives me 1.398 vcore. Does this sound about right for the voltage increase that the software is not reading.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Even at 4.5 bios set 1.24 the voltage read point on the board show 1.33 thats a pretty substantial difference in readings. My r4e would do 4.7 at 1.36 set in bios this board seems to take 1.34 vcore for 4.6 stable and 1.399 on voltage vcore read point.
> 
> Aisuite does show about a .015 vcore difference between cpuz I just cant believe the software the vcore read point is close to .1 volts difference


Check your LLC.


----------



## Mega Man

great point


----------



## UndesiredHero

Just wanted to share my rig, It's 3 gtx 780 in sli


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> From bios ill have to pickup a dmm from frozencpu to get more accurate readings for further testing. I set it in bios loaded win asus suite shows 1.25 but jumps to 1.28 under load,


1) Use a DTS monitoring temp to gauge processor die temperatures.
2) The voltage for 0602 onwards should just need an adjustment to get stability at the targe
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 
> 
> There is almost a full hour of Prime95 with the settings that you suggested. All workers passed. I wonder what could cause the Realbench V2 to crash?. They system with my settings seem to be stable. Anymore things you guys would try? Or what should I look for to find the culprit?


Probably Vcore. Realbench's Handbrake encode and Luxmark render is more stressful than Prime95 on the CPU - pulls more current and it is a real world test.


----------



## chino1974

Hi guys I just picked up a RIVE BE last night. Am swapping out my original RIVE for it right now. Can I join? I have a question for you guys. Is the onboard sound on the Black Edition any good? I have a Sound Blaster ZX sound card I was using in my RIVE. Would it be worth it to use it on the BE also? I only use it for mainly gaming. And when I do I mostly use headphones. When not usong the headphones I run a 2.1 speaker set up. Any help will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hi guys I just picked up a RIVE BE last night. Am swapping out my original RIVE for it right now. Can I join? I have a question for you guys. Is the onboard sound on the Black Edition any good? I have a Sound Blaster ZX sound card I was using in my RIVE. Would it be worth it to use it on the BE also? I only use it for mainly gaming. And when I do I mostly use headphones. When not usong the headphones I run a 2.1 speaker set up. Any help will be greatly appreciated.


I haven' tried both, so can't tell you.

but what I can tell you, is that the onboard audio on the BE is quite good, and what else I can tell you is that headphones work best plugged into front panel, thanks to the onboard amp, and for 2.1, digital output and analogue work great, but I use digital myself to plug into my HT amp and I don't use the normal analogue outputs, although you can separate both front and rear to be able to use both. I just change the output device in windows to swap when I want to.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hi guys I just picked up a RIVE BE last night. Am swapping out my original RIVE for it right now. Can I join? I have a question for you guys. Is the onboard sound on the Black Edition any good? I have a Sound Blaster ZX sound card I was using in my RIVE. Would it be worth it to use it on the BE also? I only use it for mainly gaming. And when I do I mostly use headphones. When not usong the headphones I run a 2.1 speaker set up. Any help will be greatly appreciated.


it's almost as good as my Halo XT... no really, the on-board sound is very good, but we all have different preferences. Using Ultimate Ears TF10s, or Shure 535s it sounds very clean.


----------



## Xerxies12

Hello all, I'm new here, and relatively new to overclocking. Looking forward to learning allot and having some fun! He is my CPU-Z file:

http://valid.canardpc.com/n7s182


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UndesiredHero*
> 
> Just wanted to share my rig, It's 3 gtx 780 in sli


sweet looking rig!


----------



## Zimzoid

Posted a problem I was having a page back, while running 3dmark11 to test an oc of 4.5ghz win8.1 blue screened and froze so restarted and was greeted with a red cpu led and code 00 pc would start/stop in a loop with no way to enter the bios, so thinking it was a cpu issue sent my cpu back to my supplier for testing and replacement, apparently the cpu was dead and the new one arrives Monday, don't really understand how this happened my volts was only at 1.29 and was running the latest bios my system has been working flawlessly since since December, my cooler is fine and so is the psu, should I have the motherboard tested as well? Just worried it will happen again if it's a mobo fault causing it.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerxies12*
> 
> Hello all, I'm new here, and relatively new to overclocking. Looking forward to learning allot and having some fun! He is my CPU-Z file:
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/n7s182


Looking at 1.408v vcore CPU and 1200MHz idle...

Anyone know if it's LLC or XMP or ? that can push auto vcore up like that?

My RIVE does it and I just set vcore manually.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Looking at 1.408v vcore CPU and 1200MHz idle...
> 
> Anyone know if it's LLC or XMP or ? that can push auto vcore up like that?
> 
> My RIVE does it and I just set vcore manually.


auto multi setting + XMP(which changes multi set from per core to whatever it is.)


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Posted a problem I was having a page back, while running 3dmark11 to test an oc of 4.5ghz win8.1 blue screened and froze so restarted and was greeted with a red cpu led and code 00 pc would start/stop in a loop with no way to enter the bios, so thinking it was a cpu issue sent my cpu back to my supplier for testing and replacement, apparently the cpu was dead and the new one arrives Monday, don't really understand how this happened my volts was only at 1.29 and was running the latest bios my system has been working flawlessly since since December, my cooler is fine and so is the psu, should I have the motherboard tested as well? Just worried it will happen again if it's a mobo fault causing it.


what were your other bios setings? vsa, vtt.. etc. I had a 4930K die some months ago - bad IMC.


----------



## Xerxies12

Deleted


----------



## Xerxies12

Deleted


----------



## Xerxies12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Looking at 1.408v vcore CPU and 1200MHz idle...
> 
> Anyone know if it's LLC or XMP or ? that can push auto vcore up like that?
> 
> My RIVE does it and I just set vcore manually.


I noticed that too. Is it a problem, and if so, could you tell me how I can fix it?

I'm running my memory at 2133MHZ XMP, is that the issue?

If I set the vcore manually, what would be the best place to start?

I just manually dropped my vcore to 1.350, but I'm not sure it had the desired effect? I ran P95 (Blended) for about an hour, no errors....Seems stable.

See here: http://valid.canardpc.com/uis0z2


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerxies12*
> 
> I noticed that too. Is it a problem, and if so, could you tell me how I can fix it?
> 
> I'm running my memory at 2133MHZ XMP, is that the issue?
> 
> If I set the vcore manually, what would be the best place to start?
> 
> I just manually dropped my vcore to 1.350, but I'm not sure it had the desired effect? I ran P95 (Blended) for about an hour, no errors....Seems stable.
> 
> See here: http://valid.canardpc.com/uis0z2


what multiplier?


----------



## Xerxies12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> what multiplier?


I had to back out of the XMP profile just to look at the multiplier, looks like 45?

So, I'm guessing, that with XMP enabled, I cannot adjust the multiplier manually?

In looking at the my newest CPU-Z validation, it indicates 3899.93 MHz (39 * 100 MHz), I thought the "39" represented the multiplier?


----------



## Xerxies12

So...

Do I have to off someone, ritual sacrifice, whatnot, in order to become an official member of the "Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club!"?

I'm ready, whadya want me to do?


----------



## SDMODNoob

You just got to wait for LunaP to get some time to log on to add you Xerxies12, hes a busy guy lol.

On another note, my board was finally swapped as it could not be repaired in RMA. However, I think this new board has a bent pin unless my eyes are playing tricks on me. Can you guys see it as well in my picture? (bottom right of NE quadrant, 2 rectangles down in center of socket and straight to the right side)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I suspect this is the case since my full 64gb of memory can not be detected at stock speeds 1333mhz and it only sees 48gb. I have reseated the CPU block to make sure it was not a bad mount and have reseated all the dimms as well. Any suggestions is welcome.


----------



## oelkanne

Yesterday I found a Bug in the BIOS. Friend of mine calls the Support (me







) and after 2 hours of messing arround with this Bug...I found that we HAD to plug a fan into the CPU-Fan Header to get a succesfully POST.

So conclusion....First Time installed Board needs to have a CPU-Fan plugged in??


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Yesterday I found a Bug in the BIOS. Friend of mine calls the Support (me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and after 2 hours of messing arround with this Bug...I found that we HAD to plug a fan into the CPU-Fan Header to get a succesfully POST.
> 
> So conclusion....First Time installed Board needs to have a CPU-Fan plugged in??


I wouldn't call that a bug. Sounds pretty typical / normal to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerxies12*
> 
> So...
> 
> Do I have to off someone, ritual sacrifice, whatnot, in order to become an official member of the "Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club!"?
> 
> I'm ready, whadya want me to do?


You just need to wait on the OP - LunaP - to make an appearance. Have a little patience. Not every club thread's OP visits & updates the club list every day. If you go back a couple pages you'd see mention by LunaP that work's been keeping him pretty busy these days.


----------



## oelkanne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I wouldn't call that a bug. Sounds pretty typical / normal to me.


Even if you turn multiple Times the Fan Control in BIOS off?? Everytime the Fan Error comes back again when Settings applyed


----------



## chino1974

Guys I just installed my RIV BE and am finished leak testing ect. I'll be booting it up for the first time today. I swapped from a regular RIVE to this. On my RIVE with the 3930k I had a 4.8Ghz overclock. Would I be able to use the same settings I used on the RIVE to achieve 4.6-4.8 ? Or will I have to use different settings ? If so can anyone direct me to somewhere I can find some settings or a walk rhrough on overclocking with the RIV BE please? Any help will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerxies12*
> 
> I had to back out of the XMP profile just to look at the multiplier, looks like 45?
> 
> So, I'm guessing, that with XMP enabled, I cannot adjust the multiplier manually?
> 
> In looking at the my newest CPU-Z validation, it indicates 3899.93 MHz (39 * 100 MHz), I thought the "39" represented the multiplier?


yes, 39 is the multiplier. >1.3V seems a bit high







. the crew here may be able to help, but wee need more information. add your rig to your signature.

you can post bios screen dumps: insert a blank usb key, post to bios and hit "F12" on each of the key settings screens. the bmp files will be on the usb key when you go into windows.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Even if you turn multiple Times the Fan Control in BIOS off?? Everytime the Fan Error comes back again when Settings applyed


when you set it to ingnore the q-control for your cpu fans, did you save it to a bios profile?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I just installed my RIV BE and am finished leak testing ect. I'll be booting it up for the first time today. I swapped from a regular RIVE to this. On my RIVE with the 3930k I had a 4.8Ghz overclock. Would I be able to use the same settings I used on the RIVE to achieve 4.6-4.8 ? *Or will I have to use different settings* ? If so can anyone direct me to somewhere I can find some settings or a walk rhrough on overclocking with the RIV BE please? Any help will be greatly appreciated.


the settings will be close, but not identical. The strategy is identical. Which BE bios is loaded? 0602? Scroll back thru this thread for posts by [email protected]


----------



## Xerxies12

I reduced the vcore to 1.2, still stable... I also tried the F12 screenshot thing in BIOS, but for some reason my rig is not recognizing the thumb drive I have handy.

Here's a new CPU-Z validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/cruccd


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I just installed my RIV BE and am finished leak testing ect. I'll be booting it up for the first time today. I swapped from a regular RIVE to this. On my RIVE with the 3930k I had a 4.8Ghz overclock. Would I be able to use the same settings I used on the RIVE to achieve 4.6-4.8 ? Or will I have to use different settings ? If so can anyone direct me to somewhere I can find some settings or a walk rhrough on overclocking with the RIV BE please? Any help will be greatly appreciated.


I would look to set a stable OC @ 4.2 with the lowest Vcore and set most settings by hand than use Auto or XMP, that would give you some indication how your CPU is going to Scale up!!

With your new motherboard once you have that you could also OC your RAM as well before you try for higher clocks, i hope you can reach 4.8, but its always a gamble as you know!

1, 4.2 @ 1.30v LLC to high setting you proberly know the rest of the settings, but if you need more help let us know on here!!

2, The above Vcore is a rough guide to try, if it works then try lowering the Vcore till it will not pass P95 Small fft's or Blend!

By the way 2133 Mhz is the sweet spot for Ram and most can reach 2400 and above with the right set.

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## oelkanne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> when you set it to ingnore the q-control for your cpu fans, did you save it to a bios profile?


Nope we didn´t andy why should i do this?? After a Fan plugged in going into Settings pressed F10 he recognized that there is no Fan anymore and the challenge was complete









without saving to a Profile


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Nope we didn´t andy why should i do this?? After a Fan plugged in going into Settings pressed F10 he recognized that there is no Fan anymore and the challenge was complete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> without saving to a Profile


good (i think).


----------



## Dantrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Even if you turn multiple Times the Fan Control in BIOS off?? Everytime the Fan Error comes back again when Settings applyed


Go to the fan speed monitoring tab not CPU fan control tab. Click on CPU fan speed & click ignore it Save & Exit, done no more alarm.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> You just got to wait for LunaP to get some time to log on to add you Xerxies12, hes a busy guy lol.
> 
> On another note, my board was finally swapped as it could not be repaired in RMA. However, I think this new board has a bent pin unless my eyes are playing tricks on me. Can you guys see it as well in my picture? (bottom right of NE quadrant, 2 rectangles down in center of socket and straight to the right side)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect this is the case since my full 64gb of memory can not be detected at stock speeds 1333mhz and it only sees 48gb. I have reseated the CPU block to make sure it was not a bad mount and have reseated all the dimms as well. Any suggestions is welcome.


i dont see any


----------



## JohnAlan

Please add me to the club.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Has anybody used their OC Panel yet? Mine is still in the box. ...lol


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Has anybody used their OC Panel yet? Mine is still in the box. ...lol


Yes. But it's quite useless.

The only good thing about it is that when I am sitting on the couch, my monitor is switched off and I am stress testing the system I can see from the CPU temp if it has crashed or not. Hehe.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Yes. But it's quite useless.
> 
> The only good thing about it is that when I am sitting on the couch, my monitor is switched off and I am stress testing the system I can see from the CPU temp if it has crashed or not. Hehe.


Ive tried selling it to no avail. I think i'm going to have to install it in the case just so it doesn't sit not in use. errr If only my case didn't have vertical drive bays...lol


----------



## Kimir

It comes handy for LN2 users, it's appear to be a precise enough subzero thermometer, alot cheaper than buying a fluke.
Strong Island can tell you.


----------



## Gunslinger.

OC panel is awesome for adjusting clocks and voltages on the fly as well. I love mine.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> OC panel is awesome for adjusting clocks and voltages on the fly as well. I love mine.


i am building an extension to use it, wont be alot but i like it actually


----------



## Shadowarez

Anyone else have same memory as me and cant get above 4.5ghz with bios 0602?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Anyone else have same memory as me and cant get above 4.5ghz with bios 0602?


Which version of those sticks you got? 16 GB or 32 GB? C10, C9?


----------



## Shadowarez

I bought the 32 gig version of these Dominator Platinum except when I bought Em a month ago they were $450.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I bought the 32 gig version of these Dominator Platinum except when I bought Em a month ago they were $450.


They should work fine..is either Samsung or Hynix, both IC work fine on this board.

But, 2400 MHz divider doesn't work well on all CPUs. if not setting VCCSA manually, try lower VCCSA, 0.950V-1.05V.


----------



## Gualichu04

Need help in which ram to choose when purchasing the R4BE for the i7 4930k i have yet to use. Should i get 16GB of ddr3 @ 2133mhz This kit or 32GB 2400mhz here? I would love to have 32GB for a ramdisk and overall for more cushion in case i do use the 16GB. I will be gaming, video, photo and audio editing/encoding. Also I will be experimenting with virtual machines and running a minecraft server. All help is appreciated i need ot get a decision asap so i can order all the parts for the new build.


----------



## cadaveca

I'd aim for 2133 MHz sticks, and 32 GB. I am running 8x 4 GB Hynix MFR right now @ 2133 for 32 GB without any problems at all.

I've tried Corsair, G.Skill, Kingston, Patriot, and Avexir sticks in this board form 1600 MHz to 3000 MHz without any real problems.


----------



## Gualichu04

ok 2133mhz it is any idea if i shoudl get a qvl ram or something else i love g.skill my ddr2 sticks are still going strong after 4 years.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> ok 2133mhz it is any idea if i shoudl get a qvl ram or something else i love g.skill my ddr2 sticks are still going strong after 4 years.


G.Skill makes awesome stuff, and would be my first choice for any ram, honestly. Corsair is my second choice. Avexir for bling.

Getting ram that is listed on QVL is a GREAT idea.


----------



## Gualichu04

thank you so much for helping with this delima i have had for a few months once i finally can break down and buy everything. Time to find some QVL listed 32GB 2133mhz ram and should I get 8x4GB or just 4X8GB kit. I read running all 8 slots over 1600mhz is hard on the IMC.


----------



## cadaveca

I am using 8x 4GB because I am using single-sided sticks (Hynix MFR that most benchers love to hate and think are overpriced, but I custom-ordered sticks from Avexir with our site name programmed into the SPD). Being single-sided makes it a bit easier for IMC to run all slots populated, but not much.

I'd aim for 4x 8GB sticks.

As I was saying to another user in PM, don't hesitate to try 2666 sticks if that tickles your fancy...since that uses 2133 Mhz divider + BCLK OC. But for that, I'd stay with 16 GB only.


----------



## Gualichu04

Is it worth purchasing the R4BE from newegg for $494 with the extended 2 year for $80 extra vs ncix's $470 price. I would prefer to not have a motherboard die on me after 3 years.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I am using 8x 4GB because I am using single-sided sticks (Hynix MFR that most benchers love to hate and think are overpriced, but I custom-ordered sticks from Avexir with our site name programmed into the SPD). Being single-sided makes it a bit easier for IMC to run all slots populated, but not much.
> 
> I'd aim for 4x 8GB sticks.
> 
> As I was saying to another user in PM, don't hesitate to try 2666 sticks if that tickles your fancy...since that uses 2133 Mhz divider + BCLK OC. But for that, I'd stay with 16 GB only.


I was going to custom order averix ram but it is not qvl listed and i was told by a member on here who had a bad experience with them failing on this motherboard. I still woudl trust g.skill over other memory manufactures cause i never had an issue with my 4 ddr2 sticks.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> I was going to custom order averix ram but it is not qvl listed and i was told by a member on here who had a bad experience with them failing on this motherboard. I still woudl trust g.skill over other memory manufactuers cause i never had an issue with my 4 ddr2 sticks.


I do motherboard reviews for techpowerup, so maybe Avexir made sure my sticks were good.. in fact, they even tested them as a complete kit of 8 sticks on RIVBE for me and gave me screenshots. I have a video of the sticks running on my youtube channel, too, since they got the fancy lights. well..maybe not fancy...but lights, for sure.









Avexir stuff is a bit higher priced, but has the looks I like.

G.Skill for excellent prices, and good OC potential with some kits.

Corsair for known ICs and awesome warranty (if RMA'd sticks are not in stock, they double memory amount, or give refund in my experience).

I do board reviews, so QVLs are meaning less to me personally.. I had multiple RIVBE samples before there even was a QVL.

Yet, if you know how to tune ram, then going with QVL is not required, for sure, but if you want easy "plug-and-play", then QVL is what to go by.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I do motherboard reviews for techpowerup, so maybe Avexir made sure my sticks were good.. in fact, they even tested them as a complete kit of 8 sticks on RIVBE for me and gave me screenshots. I have a video of the sticks running on my youtube channel, too, since they got the fancy lights. well..maybe not fancy...but lights, for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Avexir stuff is a bit higher priced, but has the looks I like.
> 
> G.Skill for excellent prices, and good OC potential with some kits.
> 
> Corsair for known ICs and awesome warranty (if RMA'd sticks are not in stock, they double memory amount, or give refund in my experience).
> 
> I do board reviews, so QVLs are meaning less to me personally.. I had multiple RIVBE samples before there even was a QVL.
> 
> Yet, if you know how to tune ram, then going with QVL is not required, for sure, but if you want easy "plug-and-play", then QVL is what to go by.


Should i jsut order averix 32GB and customize them cause i love the look of them and they were about 410$ but i can have a custom engraving and have the leds match my theme. It will give me more time to plan since everything i need may take up to two weeks to arrive anyways. That is enough to start on sleeving the psu and planning the build better. Build log is here.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Should i jsut order averix 32GB and customize them cause i love the look of them and they were about 410$ but i can have a custom engraving and have the leds match my theme.


If you know how to tune ram, I'd say go for it. If not, you'll have to hope they work OK(they should, really, and if not, [email protected] here on this forum will be glad to help I am sure), otherwise, you might be spending more than you want to just for looks...

I also got the Avexir Blitz 1.1 stuff because the heatsink is easily removable (it even boasts this on the box the DIMMS come in), and when running LN2, heatsinks can be a pain.


----------



## JLMS2010

I just ordered *these*. I didn't need 32GB, I really don't even need 16GB. LOL We will see how these work.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If you know how to tune ram, I'd say go for it. If not, you'll have to hope they work OK(they should, really, and if not, [email protected] here on this forum will be glad to help I am sure), otherwise, you might be spending more than you want to just for looks...
> 
> I also got the Avexir Blitz 1.1 stuff because the heatsink is easily removable (it even boasts this on the box the DIMMS come in), and when running LN2, heatsinks can be a pain.


I have only doen gpu and amd cpu overclocking since my phenom II x4 940 seems way easier to overclock i have ot relearn hwo to properly overclok the i7 4903k with the eco features it has and never done any kind of ram tuning/overclocking. Should i just get the g.skill and call it a day since they will be way better than any 1600mhz ram anyways and with the possibility to overclock them higher.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hi guys I just picked up a RIVE BE last night. Am swapping out my original RIVE for it right now. Can I join? I have a question for you guys. Is the onboard sound on the Black Edition any good? I have a Sound Blaster ZX sound card I was using in my RIVE. Would it be worth it to use it on the BE also? I only use it for mainly gaming. And when I do I mostly use headphones. When not usong the headphones I run a 2.1 speaker set up. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerxies12*
> 
> Hello all, I'm new here, and relatively new to overclocking. Looking forward to learning allot and having some fun! He is my CPU-Z file:
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/n7s182


welcome all ~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerxies12*
> 
> So...
> 
> Do I have to off someone, ritual sacrifice, whatnot, in order to become an official member of the "Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club!"?
> 
> I'm ready, whadya want me to do?


We ween out the impatient ones~







it gets you better accustomed to Asus's turnaround time with RMA's and other issues







I kid I kid
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I wouldn't call that a bug. Sounds pretty typical / normal to me.
> You just need to wait on the OP - LunaP - to make an appearance. Have a little patience. Not every club thread's OP visits & updates the club list every day. If you go back a couple pages you'd see mention by LunaP that work's been keeping him pretty busy these days.


Pretty much summed it up







that + a faulty board/CPU gives me not much ability to be here other than when at work, been almost a month and a half now w/ asus support, curious how long others have had to wait just for a response.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnAlan*
> 
> Please add me to the club.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome welcome welcome


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Need help in which ram to choose when purchasing the R4BE for the i7 4930k i have yet to use. Should i get 16GB of ddr3 @ 2133mhz This kit or 32GB 2400mhz here? I would love to have 32GB for a ramdisk and overall for more cushion in case i do use the 16GB. I will be gaming, video, photo and audio editing/encoding. Also I will be experimenting with virtual machines and running a minecraft server. All help is appreciated i need ot get a decision asap so i can order all the parts for the new build.


You can't go wrong with the 2133 16 gb gskill ones. I've got them. I just set XMP and rolled on no problems so far I've been star all the way to 4.8 on my 4820k.


----------



## Shadowarez

Anyone else getting cpu fan error even though fan is on working? I shut my comp down 4 days ago haven't turned it on till this morning noticed it kept comming up cpu fan error I shutdown reset cmos tried again same thing. So took fanplug out put back in same error had to disable qfan completely in bios to get into windows.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Anyone else getting cpu fan error even though fan is on working? I shut my comp down 4 days ago haven't turned it on till this morning noticed it kept comming up cpu fan error I shutdown reset cmos tried again same thing. So took fanplug out put back in same error had to disable qfan completely in bios to get into windows.


I think if the fan is running to slow you will get the error msg. Try another fan or go into bios and change the rpm warning to a lower speed.


----------



## Gualichu04

Is the ek water block for this board really worth getting for overclocking or is it running on air good enough?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Is the ek water block for this board really worth getting for overclocking or is it running on air good enough?


Air is "good enough" the south bridge block is somewhere around 90-96% aesthetics. The VRM block is slightly more useful. Less useful w/ 4930k, more useful w/ 3930k. The two blocks are not sold separately.


----------



## Gualichu04

Thank you so much not adding that to my watercooling parts list.


----------



## Shadowarez

It was set to 600 rpm dont think it goes much slower. Ill try flash bios with stock one. The cooler I have is the Zalman Reserator Max 3 closed loop. Untill someone cwn give a straight answer on which screws I need to properly mount my Swiftech H320 with 6 Noctua NF-F12 Fans.


----------



## Gualichu04

One more question before i purchase the R4BE is it worth 80$ for an extra 2 year warranty through newegg since it is a 500$ part.


----------



## Shadowarez

Any part over 400 or with poor rma service (Samsumg ssd) is worth any warrenty you can buy.


----------



## Shadowarez

I put 3 yrs on both ssd's cpu. Motherboard ram psu (13yrs rma) and my 2500watt ups got a 2 yr warrenty.


----------



## Shadowarez

When using flashback on Rive Be sould I rename R4BE.cap instead of R4E.cap seems to do nothing if I use R4E.cap its formatted fat 32 I can take bios shots. I tried ROG connect port it just blinks few seconds then stops.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Anyone else getting cpu fan error even though fan is on working? I shut my comp down 4 days ago haven't turned it on till this morning noticed it kept comming up cpu fan error I shutdown reset cmos tried again same thing. So took fanplug out put back in same error had to disable qfan completely in bios to get into windows.


I have same problem I know its running its the low alarm for it. I just set it to ignore and roll on. If you wish you can set it lower like 100 or 200 rpms so you know if it quits working.


----------



## oc_geek

Please add me to the club









Thanks


----------



## skupples

All these people using metal tube are starting to wear on me. My next overhaul will definitely skip acrylic & go straight to metal bending. Maybe nickel plated too.


----------



## Kimir

Raw copper style, I love it.


----------



## Ftimster

hey guys hope this is the right thread to ask this question here it goes I'm running Corsair Dominator platinum 2400 c10 xmp is 10-12-12-31-t2 and the row refresh cycle time of 298!! Can the rrct be tightened up a little bit I am running 32 gigs just lowered my vccsa to 1.500 it was way high at like 1.254 ran some stability testing prim95 and bf4.....all good did manage to shave off a couple degrees C happy with that i was at 4.8 at a bios vcore of 1.330 took that down to 4.7 at 1.300 vcore and prim95 3hr all good. Updated to the new Intel management engine software version 9.something.1570 whatever the latest one is at the asus download site any thoughts on the row refresh cycle time I know you guys don't like XMP so muchbut any thoughts would be appreciated still running BIOS 403 no need I feel to update


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> hey guys hope this is the right thread to ask this question here it goes I'm running Corsair Dominator platinum 2400 c10 xmp is 10-12-12-31-t2 and the row refresh cycle time of 298!! Can the rrct be tightened up a little bit I am running 32 gigs just lowered my vccsa to 1.500 it was way high at like 1.254 ran some stability testing prim95 and bf4.....all good did manage to shave off a couple degrees C happy with that i was at 4.8 at a bios vcore of 1.330 took that down to 4.7 at 1.300 vcore and prim95 3hr all good. Updated to the new Intel management engine software version 9.something.1570 whatever the latest one is at the asus download site any thoughts on the row refresh cycle time I know you guys don't like XMP so muchbut any thoughts would be appreciated still running BIOS 403 no need I feel to update


You have 8 GB sticks, that's why the timings are "high". You can try trfc @ 260 or so...but it's not going to offer you much, really.


----------



## Ftimster

Thanks for responding /so I'm not going to see any real increase in men speed right? Can you briefly describe what that setting does thanks again


----------



## JLMS2010

Is anybody still using Bios 0403? I see the updates say improves stability.


----------



## Gualichu04

Is the 4 pin power connector on the board for extra power to the pci-e slots?


----------



## Doug2507

I'm still on 0403. Never had a problem with it, will need to see if there's any reason to change to newer, only thing that would interest me would be lower voltage.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug2507*
> 
> I'm still on 0403. Never had a problem with it, will need to see if there's any reason to change to newer, only thing that would interest me would be lower voltage.


My thoughts exactly. I haven't had any problems either, I just changed memory and was thinking about updating, now, before I start over.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> Thanks for responding /so I'm not going to see any real increase in men speed right? Can you briefly describe what that setting does thanks again


This setting trfc is the time that the IMC takes to refresh the DIMM. Since your sticks are 8 GB, it takes longer to refresh as the memory IC itself is fairly large (512 MB per IC). Going looser or way tighter can improve per clock performance, or perhaps allow for higher clocking, but at the same time, this one setting alone isn't enough to make enough of a difference to pay it much attention. You can try playing with the different dividers and see how it scales, and perhaps work from there to optimize your system for max performance.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Is the 4 pin power connector on the board for extra power to the pci-e slots?


4-pin MOLEX on bottom of board is for PCIe slot power, 4-pin EPS is for CPU VRM, spreads the load out and allows for slightly less temps in board power traces, and on power cables form PSU. You'll have a hard time really needed it under 24/7 conditions, since 8-pin alone should be good for 374W.


----------



## MNiceGuy

Hey everyone,

I solved a bit of a mystery last night and thought I would pass it along in case someone else runs into it.

I just installed a Black and was getting horribly long POST times with a very long pause on debug code 64. For kicks I unplugged the USB from my wonderfully-fantastic (yes..that is sarcasm) H100i and voila! The dang thing boots faster than a stuck pig now. It's not the USB header on the board because the front panel ports work perfectly on the same header.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I solved a bit of a mystery last night and thought I would pass it along in case someone else runs into it.
> 
> I just installed a Black and was getting horribly long POST times with a very long pause on debug code 64. For kicks I unplugged the USB from my wonderfully-fantastic (yes..that is sarcasm) H100i and voila! The dang thing boots faster than a stuck pig now. It's not the USB header on the board because the front panel ports work perfectly on the same header.


I run my H80i on USB7/8 header without any problem. If front panel only is plugged in, and no devices into the front panel, then you may still have an issue. That said...USB affecting boot times is rather normal, but I'd rather blame the cooler here than anything else, as you would.


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Is anybody still using Bios 0403? I see the updates say improves stability.


rock solid from day 1


----------



## sam66er

This is wat i am now !! It can consider me as Owner but without the MOBO yet. From the date 22 jan 2014 I fully paid Online purchase since malaysia is the last place that still have RIVBE stock that singapore dont have. Until now ... the courier service unable to deliver the mobo to me due to online shop produce wrong customer posting address, worst is to other country.

Luckily it is traceable, They found it and now is on the way here. It took completely 3 month to trace and redelivery. Lesson is there is alway a risk to purchase online


----------



## xarot

You might want to remove your personal details from those screenies.


----------



## sam66er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> You might want to remove your personal details from those screenies.


Huh !! it is ok for me . thank you


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I run my H80i on USB7/8 header without any problem. If front panel only is plugged in, and no devices into the front panel, then you may still have an issue. That said...USB affecting boot times is rather normal, but I'd rather blame the cooler here than anything else, as you would.


Interesting. I tried this on an X79 Sabertooth and it worked normally. The front panel USB 2.0 port on my 750D is performing just fine with the lead plugged into the exact same header on the Black the the H100i was. Now if I use a different cable and plug the H100i into the front panel it works like I'd expect it to. Who knows. I have two Corsair C70's here and neither will allow the Microsoft Wireless Controller dongle to work. Maybe just one of those things.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Interesting. I tried this on an X79 Sabertooth and it worked normally. The front panel USB 2.0 port on my 750D is performing just fine with the lead plugged into the exact same header on the Black the the H100i was. Now if I use a different cable and plug the H100i into the front panel it works like I'd expect it to. Who knows. I have two Corsair C70's here and neither will allow the Microsoft Wireless Controller dongle to work. Maybe just one of those things.


Yeah, you know, USB 2.0 is supposed to be run off the chipset, so all I can suggest is that maybe a driver update or something might be needed. I did have issues with my first H80i, but RMA fixed that all nicely, and I haven't had any issues at all since Raja got me the 0055 beta BIOS. I actually have both boards up and running now without any problems at all, but my ES board needs pre-launch BIOS, retail board and this poor (as in garbage) CPU need that beta BIOS.

IF you moved over OS from another board... well... that might be part of it.


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, you know, USB 2.0 is supposed to be run off the chipset, so all I can suggest is that maybe a driver update or something might be needed. I did have issues with my first H80i, but RMA fixed that all nicely, and I haven't had any issues at all since Raja got me the 0055 beta BIOS. I actually have both boards up and running now without any problems at all, but my ES board needs pre-launch BIOS, retail board and this poor (as in garbage) CPU need that beta BIOS.
> 
> IF you moved over OS from another board... well... that might be part of it.


Nope - clean install with most current drivers.

Just popped in a USB 3.0 flash drive into the front panel and transfer speeds are what I would expect. I'm thinking it just can't be the header. I'm not terribly upset about it because in the long run I just don't see myself working with this H100i for a whole lot longer.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> I have only doen gpu and amd cpu overclocking since my phenom II x4 940 seems way easier to overclock i have ot relearn hwo to properly overclok the i7 4903k with the eco features it has and never done any kind of ram tuning/overclocking. Should i just get the g.skill and call it a day since they will be way better than any 1600mhz ram anyways and with the possibility to overclock them higher.


I would take a look at these that i am using, really rock solid and they OC to 2400 Mhz as well with little or no problems!







This set is 4 x 4 GB = 16 GB or 4 x 8 GB = 32 GB. There are rated @ 2133 Mhz by G.SKILL!

1, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503

2, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231564

The other nice thing is they match the color of the Motherboard as well, and this set is on the tested QVL LIST in your Handbook!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I would take a look at these that i am using, really rock solid and they OC to 2400 Mhz as well with little or no problems!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This set is 4 x 4 GB = 16 GB or 4 x 8 GB = 32 GB. There are rated @ 2133 Mhz by G.SKILL!
> 
> 1, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
> 
> 2, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231564
> 
> The other nice thing is they match the color of the Motherboard as well, and this set is on the tested QVL LIST in your Handbook!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Ugh i already bought these They look much better. i forget how to do a spoiler to make it more compact.


----------



## Ajay57

The Sniper Ram is for Sandy Bridge and Ivy Bridge platforms, but as other members will say Ram is Ram and should work with the X79!

My own experiences is this motherboard can be a bit picky with certain types of Ram.









Just try it and see if it works out OK!

Good Luck.

AJ.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I would take a look at these that i am using, really rock solid and they OC to 2400 Mhz as well with little or no problems!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This set is 4 x 4 GB = 16 GB or 4 x 8 GB = 32 GB. There are rated @ 2133 Mhz by G.SKILL!
> 
> 1, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503
> 
> 2, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231564
> 
> The other nice thing is they match the color of the Motherboard as well, and this set is on the tested QVL LIST in your Handbook!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


I been preaching that ram since the beginning! Love it!


----------



## skupples

Spoilers are your friend.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FWIW, the G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 4x8GB (32GB) 2400 F3-2400C11Q-32GZM are the best model memory that G. Skill has added the RIVBE so far to their QVL.


----------



## Gualichu04

Problem is the cas latency on the z series is better and i would prefer their look over the sniper. Maybe newegg will take them back without stocking fee. Not like there is a rush to build the new computer.


----------



## JottaD

Hi
does anyone knows why I have this error with my ROG CPU-Z
with the CPU-Z is ok but with rog I have it like this



I try to google it but I couldn't find anything


----------



## Zimzoid

Rma cpu arrived last Monday popped it in same issue red cpu led and code 00, so sent back my mobo back to my supplier they have replaced the mobo with a new one should have it Monday so glad I haven't had to deal with Asus directly heard some real horror stories with the rma department.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> Hi
> does anyone knows why I have this error with my ROG CPU-Z
> with the CPU-Z is ok but with rog I have it like this
> 
> 
> 
> I try to google it but I couldn't find anything


I don't see An error


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't see An error


Mega Man if you check the image on the right side you see that it's not a full image of the CPU-Z it's like was cropped


----------



## skupples

Can some one tell me what the QVL is?


----------



## Kimir

Qualified Vendor List


----------



## SDMODNoob

Had an interesting chat with ASUS customer support today regarding ram. Even though I am running a mixed kit of 2x 32gb sets, they have been detected by my last 2 RMA'D R4BE each with different problems. The two memory kits I am using are two of these: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-19200cl10q-32gbzhd

According to the operator, the G.skill site indicates that this set of memory does not list the R4BE on their QVL and therefore I should expect it to run into problems running on this board. He then pointed me to the memory list in the user manual which states that this exact kit is only able to be read by 2 sockets on the board. He then goes to state that the majority of kits are not supported to be read by all DIMMS so in theory by this logic why is this board even stated to support 64gb or have 8 dimm slots in the first place? This is a very peculiar reasoning/troubleshooting customer support was going through with me.

1) I have reseated CPU
2) I have reseated memory
3) I have swapped dimm slots
4) All is being ran at stock (also booted with memok)

Just to have my bases covered so far that is what I have done. Anyone got insight to some solutions?


----------



## Kimir

using two different kit? bad idea. I suppose you have tried both kit individually before that, right?
If you didn't, do it and check the secondary timings of each kit in the bios at 2400Mhz. Btw, it has been said multiple times, it's hard to get both amount and high frequency at the same time.


----------



## Masonjar13

It's kind of hard to see, I've got a terrible camera


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Qualified Vendor List


Thanks, thought it was something around there. Was telling my self Qualify Verification list.

Anyways...

I tried using my heat gun on the heat sink. I hit it with 1500W on High for 20 minutes waving it back and forth, focused on the exposed piping. No dice. IDK how the hell people have used heat guns to successfully separate the sinks.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> using two different kit? bad idea. I suppose you have tried both kit individually before that, right?
> If you didn't, do it and check the secondary timings of each kit in the bios at 2400Mhz. Btw, it has been said multiple times, it's hard to get both amount and high frequency at the same time.


Both kits have been tested. I know mixing kits will not give me the rated 2400mhz speed as other users here have realized as well. I am only trying to run stock speeds of 1333mhz and get full 64gb detection.


----------



## Gualichu04

Is it worth returning this ram for this? Pretty much g.skill F3-2133C10Q-32GSR return and get g.skill F3-2133C9Q-32GZH. I do like the look of the ripjaws z way better to.


----------



## Ajay57

If you want to that looks about right and should work really well, just remember to set your Ram Timings by hand.

In the Bios when you get the Ram, it helps to make things work better in my book, and if you set up things right then you can OC your Ram to 2400 Mhz.

The reason i did mention to you about 2133 this is the sweet spot for Ram using either a 4930K or a 4960X CPU!

I got this Info off some of the major Overclockers on the HWbot, there is 2 ways of using your Ram.

One is to tighten the timings for 2133 the other is to OC to 2400 and tighten the timings on that frequency, which should by rights give you your extra speed.

Well good luck on sending the Ram back hope you get the others soon.

AJ.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Qualified Vendor List
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, thought it was something around there. Was telling my self Qualify Verification list.
> 
> Anyways...
> 
> I tried using my heat gun on the heat sink. I hit it with 1500W on High for 20 minutes waving it back and forth, focused on the exposed piping. No dice. IDK how the hell people have used heat guns to successfully separate the sinks.
Click to expand...

Your goal is not to heat up the pooping. It is to heat up the I/o shield. Last person I remember talking about successfully doing it with a heat gun said it took more then 30 min.

Your goal is to keep the pipe cold and the I/o hot. Pipe stays small heatsink big. And boil the glue


----------



## Myka

QVL = Qualified Vendors List, Asus for example will list all the compatible Ram for your particular board, the list includes different speed timing CL and speed GHz combinations and in different brands, GSkill, Kingston, Corsair etc.

Ram can be very particular, it's always best to go with a QVL as a base because they have gone through Manufactures testing (to some degree and passed). It's always best to buy your kits all at once, don't buy some now and some later, as these will often give you compatibility problems even between the sane family groups.

Cheers Myka


----------



## Myka

I was part of a discussion on Optimizing Ram topic on Tom's Hardware and the Z's were recommended for the Rampage board which I was in the process of purchasing at the time. I was just going to go with 32GB of Ram, but read this review from Newegg which changed my mind so for insurance purposes and to avoid problems later(or decrease the odds anyway) I went with the 64GB quad kits and haven't a problem, everything's stable with the 2400GHz Z's. The quote infers compatibility issues with other kits of the same specs, let alone other kits of dissimilar specs is sure trouble!

Here's the quote for you: ""5 out of 5 eggs - Will not work in conjunction with another kit of the same specs."

Pros: G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-19200CL10Q-32GBZHD. If you are going to run 32Gb only and not upgrade later , this is the kit to buy. Fast and reliable.

Cons: G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-19200CL10Q-32GBZHD. If you are going to run 64 Gb need to buy one single kit. Do not use 2 kits of the same. Many issues and did not pass Memtest86 on first pass!

Other Thoughts: Using ASUS Rampage Extreme Black edition with i7 4930K. GeForce 760x 3 SLI. Samsung 840 Pro 512. Corsair H110. Xilent Pro 1200w."
(End of Quote)

Myka


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Your goal is not to heat up the pooping. It is to heat up the I/o shield. Last person I remember talking about successfully doing it with a heat gun said it took more then 30 min.
> 
> Your goal is to keep the pipe cold and the I/o hot. Pipe stays small heatsink big. And boil the glue


hmm... I'll try again today, but even with direct heat on the glue it never liquefied.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hmm... I'll try again today, but even with direct heat on the glue it never liquefied.


Propane torch, get the blue part of the flame really close to the glue. It should melt it right off.


----------



## Escn3d

I want to see that new Impact board.


----------



## Escn3d

Sorry


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escn3d*
> 
> Hello friends I am new to the forum I have problems with my asus rampage iv black was working well was shut down after a few minutes and now I press the start button for a second and turn off again and had the 4.7 processor can overclock please help
> 
> My pc is
> 
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
> Core i7 4820k overclock 4.7
> 16 gb ddr3 1866 Mhz
> Gtx 660 3 Gb
> Evga G2 1000W


Sounds like your overclock isn't working I would clear CMOS with the green button on rear of motherboard and try again. See if that fixes the problem.

What is your voltage set at for 4.7ghz? On my 4820k I'm stable at 4.6 @ 1.270. At 4.7 I had to be somewhere in mid 1.3v at at 4.8 I had to be at 1.410v


----------



## Escn3d

Evga G2 1000W


----------



## Zimzoid

Is there any error code and cpu or ram red led? Had a similar issue and had to rma cpu and motherboard


----------



## Escn3d

I want to see that new Impact board.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Your goal is not to heat up the pooping. It is to heat up the I/o shield. Last person I remember talking about successfully doing it with a heat gun said it took more then 30 min.
> 
> Your goal is to keep the pipe cold and the I/o hot. Pipe stays small heatsink big. And boil the glue
> 
> 
> 
> hmm... I'll try again today, but even with direct heat on the glue it never liquefied.
Click to expand...

.... that was supposed to be piping. Not pooping. Dang auto correct...


----------



## stebbiro

That's like the guy that gets a text from his next door neighbor:
Dude I feel terrible and thought I would tell you I have been taping your wife while you are at work.
Upon getting the message his neighbor kills his wife.
Later gets the message, "Dang auto correct, I meant wifi dude sorry."


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escn3d*
> 
> I just hit the start button strate the code 00 for a second and the computer shuts down help please


I had the code 00 and red cpu led cpu and motherboard were dead my new motherboard arrives tomorrow


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escn3d*
> 
> I just hit the start button strate the code 00 for a second and the computer shuts down help please


make sure you turn the computer off unplug the power cord. then press the power on button to bleed off the leftover voltage. Now you can press the cmos button for about 5 sec, if that doesn't remove the battery, reinstall it, then restart.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've been trying to troubleshoot the 00 bootloop for the past few days. Driving me nuts!!!

Pulling the battery and power cord for a half hour lets me into windows for about 10-30 minutes. Closer to 10 if i'm running stress tests. Everything acts just like its supposed to, then just power off to bootloop.


----------



## Escn3d

I was part of a discussion on Optimizing


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't think i follow what you're saying there.

If you pull the CMOS battery for 30 minutes, and flash the bios fresh when you put the battery back, you should be able to get into bios. Or at least i can. If i don't try to OC at all, it lets me into windows. But it's only for a short time before the bootloop comes back.

And once i'm in the 00 bootloop, i have to at least pull the power cord for a half hour or so. Pulling the CMOS battery guarantees i can get back into bios in a half hour


----------



## ledzepp3

I've been having this strange problem with my board. It lights up, and will power on- but it's only powered on 10 times max, no matter what I do. Move the rig around, Clear CMOS, use the power switch built into the board, do a BIOS switch, everything possible. I'm running a 3930k, 16GB of Corsair Dominator and a Silverstone Strider 1000 Evolution fresh from RMA.

Any ideas guys?

-Zepp


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I've been having this strange problem with my board. It lights up, and will power on- but it's only powered on 10 times max, no matter what I do. Move the rig around, Clear CMOS, use the power switch built into the board, do a BIOS switch, everything possible. I'm running a 3930k, 16GB of Corsair Dominator and a Silverstone Strider 1000 Evolution fresh from RMA.
> 
> Any ideas guys?
> 
> -Zepp


I know it sounds obvious but check all of your connections, make sure you aren't causing a short anywhere on the board w/ overly tight screws, verify PSU is functioning properly. stuff like that.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've been trying to troubleshoot the 00 bootloop for the past few days. Driving me nuts!!!
> 
> Pulling the battery and power cord for a half hour lets me into windows for about 10-30 minutes. Closer to 10 if i'm running stress tests. Everything acts just like its supposed to, then just power off to bootloop.


have you replaced the battery


----------



## kpoeticg

Do you mean replace as in try a different battery, or re-place it into it's socket? I haven't tried a different CMOS battery, i always put it back in before i boot though.

Do you think the battery itself could be causing me problems?


----------



## Mega Man

Yes install a new battery. Sometimes even with a new board the battery is dead. Worth a shot


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the boards not really new so i guess it's a possibility. But isn't the battery just for keeping the time and bios settings when the powers off? I just disassembled my loop to troubleshoot more after i sleep. I have a feeling that it's an RMA level problem, so a new battery is definitely a cheap enough option to try first.

Could the battery cause the system to just power down into a bootloop when the PSU's running?


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well the boards not really new so i guess it's a possibility. But isn't the battery just for keeping the time and bios settings when the powers off? I just disassembled my loop to troubleshoot more after i sleep. I have a feeling that it's an RMA level problem, so a new battery is definitely a cheap enough option to try first.
> 
> Could the battery cause the system to just power down into a bootloop when the PSU's running?


Like they said I would try a new cmos battery there cheap and could very well cause it. Also try a new psu you have laying around as long as you can at least power the board with it thats fine just use the other one to power the gpus for now. Try changing the bios via the bios switch on the board to bios 1 if your in bios 2 or bios 2 if its in bios 1 see if its a bad bios chip on the board. Of course try one at a time to isolate the issue. I would try everything possible before rmaing to asus since they take so long unless you can rma with who you bought it from for a replacement.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Question:

I am considering OC'ing my cpu to 4.5 GHz .

Anyone who could make me a small list of Pro's and Con's?
And if the Pro's are more than the Con's, can you suggest some voltage?

EDIT NOTE: Its an i7 4930k


----------



## skupples

pros:faster
cons:more energy
cons: chance of instability.


----------



## stebbiro

Can someone post the dimensions of the RIVBE? Maybe they're already posted somewhere and if so sorry I couldn't find it.
Even better... Has anyone installed this board in a Corsair C70 case?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stebbiro*
> 
> Can someone post the dimensions of the RIVBE? Maybe they're already posted somewhere and if so sorry I couldn't find it.
> Even better... Has anyone installed this board in a Corsair C70 case?


12 inch x 10.7 inch ( 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm )
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/specifications/


----------



## stebbiro

Thank you


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I know it sounds obvious but check all of your connections, make sure you aren't causing a short anywhere on the board w/ overly tight screws, verify PSU is functioning properly. stuff like that.


Did all the checking. So far, the CMOS battery was replaced, the CPU has been reseated several times and the socket inspected for bent pins (which there are none), the cables checked for bad pins (which there are none), starting has been attempted with no expansion cards in (which didn't work), motherboard has been reseated on the tray (as well as checked for scratches/cracks in the PCB), but strangely the board will still power up. By that i mean it'll light up, but not actually go into the boot process.

I'm about to scream this board is causing me so many problems







anybody have other ideas?

-Zepp


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Like they said I would try a new cmos battery there cheap and could very well cause it. Also try a new psu you have laying around as long as you can at least power the board with it thats fine just use the other one to power the gpus for now. Try changing the bios via the bios switch on the board to bios 1 if your in bios 2 or bios 2 if its in bios 1 see if its a bad bios chip on the board. Of course try one at a time to isolate the issue. I would try everything possible before rmaing to asus since they take so long unless you can rma with who you bought it from for a replacement.


I've already done all that besides the cmos battery. I even bought another psu cuz i was hoping that was the problem. I'll definitely try everything possible before a manufacturer rma


----------



## skupples

Anyone had issues with getting the R4BE to sit properly on a caselabs mobo tray?


----------



## axiumone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone had issues with getting the R4BE to sit properly on a caselabs mobo tray?


Mine sits perfectly. What issue are you having?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Mine sits perfectly. What issue are you having?


I had to really push it towards the back to get it to line up properly. It was a good 2mm out of whack. It's on there now, but it was a slight struggle to get it in place. The only thing I could think of was the board's I/O hitting up against the aluminum I/O rear panel shroud.


----------



## Neb9

http://valid.canardpc.com/0qm4dc

CPU-Z validation.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone had issues with getting the R4BE to sit properly on a caselabs mobo tray?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine sits perfectly. What issue are you having?
Click to expand...

as does mine


----------



## reev3r

Anybody else having Bluetooth connection issues...? My board does not detect either of my two Android devices, nor my iPhone. Although, all of these devices do see, and connect to one another...

Hopefully someone can give me some guidance, it worked quite well when I first installed the board/OS, now that I tried it is not working, and I have changed no settings that I am aware of, although, if we always knew what changes hav occurred that have had I'll effects, well, the I'll effects would not last terribly long... (-:

Again, any help would be splendid.

Thanks all!!!


----------



## Mega Man

Have you installed both original and updated divers


----------



## skupples

I've heard allot of these complaints and not heard many resolutions. I've never tried to use mine.


----------



## reev3r

I have installed the updated drivers from the website, never even inserted the disk, I used my MacBook to download the latest drivers. Unfortunately, I've no idea when it stopped working, as I used it for about a week in February when I first built it, but stopped using it subsequently, and with my new phobe it will not work. I fear the only resolution may be a reinstallation of my OS. I have honestly never had good experiences with wireless technologies, especially Bluetooth, except for my WNDR4500 router, which has really been a godsend...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sam66er*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is wat i am now !! It can consider me as Owner but without the MOBO yet. From the date 22 jan 2014 I fully paid Online purchase since malaysia is the last place that still have RIVBE stock that singapore dont have. Until now ... the courier service unable to deliver the mobo to me due to online shop produce wrong customer posting address, worst is to other country.
> 
> Luckily it is traceable, They found it and now is on the way here. It took completely 3 month to trace and redelivery. Lesson is there is alway a risk to purchase online


Sorry to hear and hope your board arrives in good condition. Welcome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/0qm4dc
> 
> CPU-Z validation.


Welcome welcome.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Thank you *Raja* for your technical guides at ROG !!

This is a R4BE Overclock: (4.5GHz CPU 1.29V Fixed Vcore and 2400MHz RAM)
I've managed to clock my system for stable 24/7 usage.
Temps vary from 35ºC to 59ºC (on air).
Any advice or recommendations are encouraged and highly appreciated.








Here are my settings:

Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. X.M.P.
CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
XMP &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Profile #1
BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100.000
CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. DDR3-2400MHz
Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
EPU Setting &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.280 &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Manual Mode
CPU VCORE Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230; 1.290
VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 1.246 V .&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. Auto
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.040 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.103 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. -
CPU VCCSA Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230; Auto
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.653 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.650
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.656 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.650
CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.796 V &#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 1.100 V &#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. Auto
Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled

CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 150%
CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Extreme
Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto

Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto

Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled

CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled


----------



## JLMS2010

I personally would try Offset mode instead of manual mode. That way you aren't feeding your chip a constant voltage, it will lower your vcore at idle and light applications.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I personally would try Offset mode instead of manual mode. That way you aren't feeding your chip a constant voltage, it will lower your vcore at idle and light applications.


Which parameter are you referring to? I am running:
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.103 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;........&#8230;&#8230;. -
You mean I should change:
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.280 &#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Manual Mode Offset Mode
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;....&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230; 1.290
Is that even possible? Does that option exist in the UEFI?







Ok I will try it! Thank you!!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Which parameter are you referring to? I am running:
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.103 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;........&#8230;&#8230;*. -*
> You mean I should change:
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;*.. 1.280* &#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Manual Mode Offset Mode
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;....&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230; 1.290
> Is that even possible? Does that option exist in the UEFI?


whoa! set offset to positive and 5mV (0.005V) OC mode to manual (not XMP) and enter your ram timings manually. Set turbo mode to "Enabled" not Auto. The put 8 or 12mV on the line "Additional Turbo voltage". Try lowering VTT1 to 1.15V vs "auto".
Sleep states to Off or Auto (usually best to disable C1E.)

*DO NOT PUT OFFSET VOLTAGE AT 1.2 VOLTS. YOU MAY FRY YOUR CHIP.*


----------



## AstralAnimal

Peew!! Thank you *Jpmboy*. Glad you've jumped in! I was just about to do that.
Ok.. I will re-read your post above and try to make sense of it before I try anything.
So no 1.2v on the Vcore Offset. Got it!

So you recommend me to make these changes: Could you please confirm !?

Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 1.15V
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................&#8230;&#8230;... Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;.... +
CPU VCCSA Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. 0.005V
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Manual
Additional Turbo voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.005V to 0.012V
CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Manual
C1E &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled

Can I just copy the RAM timings from Mem TweakIt and enter them Manually into the BIOS instead of using X.M.P. ??
I mean, are these the correct timings I should be manually inputting??




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jpmboy

Read this and the posts that follow it. You can read the XMP (and SPD) of your ram kit in the bios (last page, memory spd).

I have a post somewhere (recently) where I loaded a complete bios screenies for an offset OC.. gotta find it.

edit: running ram at 2400 with an OC of 45 or so is fairly meaningless. For now, drop your ram to 2133 9-11-11-28 @1.65V all the rest on auto *(your vtt will be 1.05V with this ram frequency*). Once you get a solid cpu OC come back to the ram.

*here's those bios screenies*: http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/6950#post_22058454


----------



## AstralAnimal

Thank you *Jpmboy* for the screenies and the Ivy Bridge E thread.
I'm using G. Skill - RipjawsZ (F3-19200CL10Q-32GBZHD) which is different to your RAM I assume.
Still, the screens give me a general idea.
Will read on and try out some BIOS configurations.
*Question:* Will running my rig at 4.5GHz (1.29 Fixed Vcore) and RAM at 2400MHz 24/7 cause me any problems in the future?
Will my chip wear out or something?


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Thank you *Jpmboy* for the screenies and the Ivy Bridge E thread.
> I'm using G. Skill - RipjawsZ (F3-19200CL10Q-32GBZHD) which is different to your RAM I assume.
> Still, the screens give me a general idea.
> Will read on and try out some BIOS configurations.
> *Question:* Will running my rig at 4.5GHz (1.29 Fixed Vcore) and RAM at 2400MHz 24/7 cause me any problems in the future?
> Will my chip wear out or something?


It is possible you will see degradation, but that could be years down the road.
I have mine set to Offset mode
+ .080
CPU LLC....Ultra High
CPU PLL Voltage....try 1.825

Use CPU-Z to check your vcore. With these settings at 4.6 my vcore under stress testing is 1.344, but idles at 1.006
I'm still tweaking, but it is stable. You can lower the offset additional vcore and add additional turbo vcore too.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> whoa! set offset to positive and 5mV (0.005V) OC mode to manual (not XMP) and enter your ram timings manually. Set turbo mode to "Enabled" not Auto. The put 8 or 12mV on the line "Additional Turbo voltage". Try lowering VTT1 to 1.15V vs "auto".
> Sleep states to Off or Auto (usually best to disable C1E.)
> 
> *DO NOT PUT OFFSET VOLTAGE AT 1.2 VOLTS. YOU MAY FRY YOUR CHIP.*


You can get stable with that little Offset?? Wow. I just switched memory and decided to go through the whole process again. haha
I currently have vcore on Auto with Offset mode + .080 and LLC on Ultra High. I am not using additional turbo voltage. My max vcore is 1.344 under prime 95.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Thank you *Jpmboy* for the screenies and the Ivy Bridge E thread.
> I'm using G. Skill - RipjawsZ (F3-19200CL10Q-32GBZHD) which is different to your RAM I assume.
> Still, the screens give me a general idea.
> Will read on and try out some BIOS configurations.
> *Question:* *Will running my rig at 4.5GHz (1.29 Fixed Vcore) and RAM at 2400MHz 24/7 cause me any problems in the future?
> Will my chip wear out or something?*


each chip is different, but 1.29V should be fine for 24/7. FYI, I run mid 1.3V for 4.7 and 4.8 24/7. The 2400 ram you have will down clock and run at 2133 no problem. just tighten the timings one notch, and set 1T with 1.65V... will work fine and nearly as quick as 2400 2T. Not every IB-E can handle 32G of 2400 ram without sweating. If you have to run vsa at 1.2ish, and VTT1 at >1.2V I'd back down to 2133 for 24/7 use. You will not see/feel a difference at all, especially with tighter timings.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> You can get stable with that little Offset?? Wow. I just switched memory and decided to go through the whole process again. haha
> I currently have vcore on Auto with Offset mode + .080 and LLC on Ultra High. I am not using additional turbo voltage. My max vcore is 1.344 under prime 95.


At what multiplier?? if you do not set a turbo voltage and leave it on Auto, it will run high (and overvolt your chip for a given clock). read the post I linked to a few posts back. Remember, Auto Turbo = you have not controlled the vcore ceiling (beyond the bios limits).

offset affects idle and load voltage - turbo affects only load voltage.. so, yes, my systems idle at like 0.8V ands load ... well all the way to 1.424V when benching at 4.85-4.9GHx.

for anything less than 4.8GHz you should not need LLC at Very High! Use High or medium. vdroop is a good thing (especially with a dynamic vcore/vid = offset OC). transient load spikes are not a good thing. vdroop compensates for this.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> At what multiplier?? if you do not set a turbo voltage ands leave it on Auto, it will run high (and overvolt your chip for a given clock. read the post I linked to a few posts back.


Sorry, I was referring to a 45 or 46 multiplier.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Sorry, I was referring to a 45 or 46 multiplier.


at 46x I'd set 5mV offset, and increase Additional Turbo Voltage slowly until your rig has the stability you need. (p95, or linpak... etc). Should be somewhere around 40mV turbo for 45-46.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> At what multiplier?? if you do not set a turbo voltage and leave it on Auto, it will run high (and overvolt your chip for a given clock). read the post I linked to a few posts back. Remember, Auto Turbo = you have not controlled the vcore ceiling (beyond the bios limits).
> 
> offset affects idle and load voltage - turbo affects only load voltage.. so, yes, my systems idle at like 0.8V ands load ... well all the way to 1.424V when benching at 4.85-4.9GHx.
> 
> for anything lees that 4.8GHz you should not need LLC at Very High! Use High or medium. vdroop is a good thing (especially with a dynamic vcore/vid = offset OC). transient load spikes are not a good thing. vdroop compensates for this.


Ok yeah that makes sense. I looked and it's actually on High. The Ultra High was when I was trying the 48 multiplier.
I'll give Medium a shot. I'll go back to setting a turbo voltage like I did the first time. Thanks!


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> at 46x I'd set 5mV offset, and increase Additional Turbo Voltage slowly until your rig has the stability you need. (p95, or linpak... etc). Should be somewhere around 40mV turbo for 45-46.


Ok thanks, I'll give this a shot. I think I was using 32mV turbo before, but using a higher offset mV.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Ok yeah that makes sense. I looked and it's actually on High. The Ultra High was when I was trying the 48 multiplier.
> *I'll give Medium a shot*. I'll go back to setting a turbo voltage like I did the first time. Thanks!


With LLC medium, you will need a slightly higher turbo offset (12-16mV more) vs with LLC high. What you will see is the load vcore droop to where to your stable load vcore was before(same that LLC high allowed). Light loads will run a higher vcore, but not a problem since with a light load the current draw is lower. Either way, the chip will need a given vcore to hold a frequency under 100% load, LLC manages the transient voltage spikes that occur during load transitions.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Good discussion. Thank you all!


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> With LLC medium, you will need a slightly higher turbo offset (12-16mV more) vs with LLC high. What you will see is the load vcore droop to where to your stable load vcore was before(same that LLC high allowed). Light loads will run a higher vcore, but not a problem since with a light load the current draw is lower. Either way, the chip will need a given vcore to hold a frequency under 100% load, LLC manages the transient voltage spikes that occur during load transitions.


Yeah, I'm going to leave it on high and redo the offset & turbo voltages.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Did all the checking. So far, the CMOS battery was replaced, the CPU has been reseated several times and the socket inspected for bent pins (which there are none), the cables checked for bad pins (which there are none), starting has been attempted with no expansion cards in (which didn't work), motherboard has been reseated on the tray (as well as checked for scratches/cracks in the PCB), but strangely the board will still power up. By that i mean it'll light up, but not actually go into the boot process.
> 
> I'm about to scream this board is causing me so many problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anybody have other ideas?
> 
> -Zepp


Has anyone else seriously not had these problems? Might I have gotten a dud?


----------



## Ajay57

Most CPU's will work with LLC set @ HIGH when OCed to 4.5 or 4.6 range just need to tweak the settings as JPMboy said!!

Also i have found and read that a small amount of Vdroop is really healthy for these CPU's as in the 4930K and the 4960X.

I have all my cores set @ 4.5 @ 1.215v set into the Bios Vcore, works a treat here and my Ram OCed to 2400 with 4 x 4 = 16GB.

But the higher amount of ram one uses, the more strain it place on the IMC etc, hence you might have to down clock to get things to be stable and work for you.

But it still could be possible to tighten the Ram timings even if you have to down clock, and the difference between 2133 and 2400 for everyday use, you would not notice it much at all.

Nice to see the Overclocking on here and how others do things there way, very informative to the members.

Good Luck.

AJ.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Has anyone else seriously not had these problems? Might I have gotten a dud?


Well I had a similar issue. It does show power as the board lights up, but my board just went into constant reboot without getting into bios or windows. Did all the troubleshooting steps and nothing helped. Ended up going through the long RMA process. About to hit my 4th R4BE board myself.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Has anyone else seriously not had these problems? Might I have gotten a dud?


I have just received my replacement mobo and cpu yesterday and all is working as it should, rma is the only option for that dreaded bootloop unfortunately. Just lucky I had my supplier replace the parts instead of dealing with Asus rma department.


----------



## ledzepp3

I'd really rather avoid the RMA department at Asus. Just the things I've heard about it horrify me, especially if they'll give crap about a $500 motherboard which claims to be top of the line.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I'd really rather avoid the RMA department at Asus. Just the things I've heard about it horrify me, especially if they'll give crap about a $500 motherboard which claims to be top of the line.


I'm in New Zealand so to far to send to Asus, so you have had no luck getting the board to post?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> I'm in New Zealand so to far to send to Asus, so you have had no luck getting the board to post?


The board has booted 3 times in the time it's actually been in an almost working rig. The board is getting power without a doubt, and my PSU is not faulty as I tested after I received it back from the Silverstone RMA department. Tried removing all expansion cards, inspecting the socket, looking for scratches on the front and back of the PCB, swapping memory kits to see if that's it, reseating the board to make sure no shorts are happening, and nothing has worked









I'll be submitting my RMA request with them soon, so let's all pray it goes through.

-Zepp


----------



## Ajay57

Good Luck Zepp with your RMA request, at least you are in the USA, not like me and the others around the world!!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## kpoeticg

I just did my rma request for the bootloop yesterday. Bout to grab a used x79 extreme6 to hold me over.

@SDMODNoob how long did Asus take with your rma?


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> The board has booted 3 times in the time it's actually been in an almost working rig. The board is getting power without a doubt, and my PSU is not faulty as I tested after I received it back from the Silverstone RMA department. Tried removing all expansion cards, inspecting the socket, looking for scratches on the front and back of the PCB, swapping memory kits to see if that's it, reseating the board to make sure no shorts are happening, and nothing has worked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be submitting my RMA request with them soon, so let's all pray it goes through.
> 
> -Zepp


You will be fine as long as no bent socket pins, best of luck Zepp


----------



## erayser

Haven't been in this thread for a while. I guess when a board is working, you don't spend as much time in mobo club threads... LOL... Plus... I've been using my computer as a regular old computer lately, so I haven't been in BIOS for a while. Glad to read that people are posting offset voltage info.. I'm still using offset for my 4.5Ghz everyday OC setting. I feel a little comfortable knowing that my vcore isn't fixed at 1.2+v. Anyhow... hope everyone is doing well... and I'll try to stop by more often.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I just did my rma request for the bootloop yesterday. Bout to grab a used x79 extreme6 to hold me over.
> 
> Took 25 days to receive it back after they received it.
> 
> @SDMODNoob
> how long did Asus take with your rma?


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for the reply. I figured a week to 10 days sounded too good to be true. +1


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> You will be fine as long as no bent socket pins, best of luck Zepp


I've inspected the socket several times now even with a magnifying glass. No bent/damaged socket components, and I know my CPU isn't dead







memory isn't bad and the PSU passed the validation tests along with the cables, and the spare GPU works and I know that. Literally everything has held me back in my build it seems.

I'll report back when/if my new board comes in









-Zepp


----------



## MNiceGuy

Fellow Rampage IV Black owner here in need of a memory recommendation.

From the QVL I'm eyeballing a 4x4GB set of GSkill Ripjaws Z 1866

Dominator Platinums seem to be a popular choice as well.

Any others?

Out of curiosity ledzepp3, how do those Dominator GTs work in your rig? What speed/voltage are you running at?

Thanks


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Fellow Rampage IV Black owner here in need of a memory recommendation.
> 
> From the QVL I'm eyeballing a 4x4GB set of GSkill Ripjaws Z 1866
> 
> Dominator Platinums seem to be a popular choice as well.
> 
> Any others?
> 
> Out of curiosity ledzepp3, how do those Dominator GTs work in your rig? What speed/voltage are you running at?
> 
> Thanks


My rig has never actually been run on this rig. I was running the same 3930K with the same memory on my older RIVE before I did a board/GPU/cooling/storage swap (going from air to liquid, and SSD/HDD combo to completely SSD). The memory ran at it's rated 2000MHz at whatever timings it's got (can't remember







) without a problem, but down clocked it to have the timings tighter for when I did some rendering work. It just felt like it performed better with tighter timings, not sure if it legitimately impacted it's response times though...

10/10 would memory again.

-Zepp


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Fellow Rampage IV Black owner here in need of a memory recommendation.
> 
> From the QVL I'm eyeballing a 4x4GB set of GSkill Ripjaws Z 1866
> 
> Dominator Platinums seem to be a popular choice as well.
> 
> Any others?
> 
> Out of curiosity ledzepp3, how do those Dominator GTs work in your rig? What speed/voltage are you running at?
> 
> Thanks


I grabbed these. Excellent so far! I haven't had a chance to oc them yet though.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I grabbed these. Excellent so far! I haven't had a chance to oc them yet though.


Should hit 2666+ C10 with those. Try the timings/settings I posted many weeks ago, adjust voltages accordingly.


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> Hi
> does anyone knows why I have this error with my ROG CPU-Z
> with the CPU-Z is ok but with rog I have it like this
> 
> 
> 
> I try to google it but I couldn't find anything


Today I try with my workstation and have the same error



does anyone knows why my ROG CPU-Z have this error?

thanks


----------



## skupples

Have you tried re-installing it?


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Have you tried re-installing it?


Yes a lot of times on both Pc's and is the same, the normal CPU-z works fine but the ROG one is with this error, quite strange since that they have the same software just a different layout


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Fellow Rampage IV Black owner here in need of a memory recommendation.
> 
> From the QVL I'm eyeballing a 4x4GB set of GSkill Ripjaws Z 1866
> 
> Dominator Platinums seem to be a popular choice as well.
> 
> Any others?
> 
> Out of curiosity ledzepp3, how do those Dominator GTs work in your rig? What speed/voltage are you running at?
> 
> Thanks


I like the 2133 Ripjaws Z the ones im talkin about are in my sig. I set XMP and never looked back.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Should hit 2666+ C10 with those. Try the timings/settings I posted many weeks ago, adjust voltages accordingly.


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> Today I try with my workstation and have the same error
> 
> 
> 
> does anyone knows why my ROG CPU-Z have this error?
> 
> thanks


Ok I manage to find the error is about the taskbar location on Screen....
works perfect on all positions except on the left side on the screen, maybe @asus can fix this error for future versions


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Should hit 2666+ C10 with those.


Wouldn't 2666+ put too much strain on the CPUs IMC ?

In my case, using a 4930K, Intel states Memory Types DDR3-1333/1600/1866.
http://ark.intel.com/products/77780
So will I be ok at 2400 or 2133 (as advised on previous posts) Or should I drop it to 1866 to match supported stock speed ?

Also, I will try the Offset overclocking method with Dynamic Vcore. Which seems to be the healthier choice rather then running it on a constant Fixed Vcore.


----------



## sabishiihito

I've run DDR3-2400 24/7 with 3930k and 4930k and no IMC degredation.


----------



## gdubc

Anyone out there tried the new Kingston Fury kits in this board? (Cadaveca?) They only come as dual kits but I wonder if they are more likely to play nicely together.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabishiihito*
> 
> I've run DDR3-2400 24/7 with 3930k and 4930k and no IMC degredation.


What are your parameter settings, Vcore and RAM type? You running an Offset OC?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Anyone out there tried the new Kingston Fury kits in this board? (Cadaveca?) They only come as dual kits but I wonder if they are more likely to play nicely together.


Kingston didn't send me any kits. I'll have to touch base with them to get some, but at the same time, I'm pretty busy right now, and don't really have time for ram reviews...although I'll have a G.Skill review posted the our front page soon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> What are your parameter settings, Vcore and RAM type? You running an Offset OC?


My chip can run 4.5 GHz and 2666 MHz memory with stock voltages. 2666 should be fairly easy, I think, as I have multiple IVB-E chips and all of them can run 2666 Mhz ram...

At the same time, CPU quality is quite varied from my experience...ASUS' guide saying 4.3 GHz average OC seems pretty accurate to me.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Kingston didn't send me any kits. I'll have to touch base with them to get some, but at the same time, I'm pretty busy right now, and don't really have time for ram reviews...although I'll have a G.Skill review posted the our front page soon.
> My chip can run 4.5 GHz and 2666 MHz memory with stock voltages.


Is your ram voltage 1.65v stock?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Is your ram voltage 1.65v stock?


Yeah, but I have actual 2666 Mhz C10 sticks. The kits are the same...2133 C9 1.5V will just need a bit more voltage to reach 2666, where my 2666's can run 2800 MHz C10 no problem.

I reviewed this kit nearly two years ago:

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Corsair/Dominator_Platinum_2666/


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, but I have actual 2666 Mhz C10 sticks.


Oh ok that's right.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> At the same time, CPU quality is quite varied from my experience...ASUS' guide saying 4.3 GHz average OC seems pretty accurate to me.


*cadaveca* What's your take on running a Fixed OC vs a Dynamic Offset OC?
Will I be alright with a 4.5GHz Fixed 1.29Vcore 2400Mhz OC? Degradation overtime?
Thanx man!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> *cadaveca* What's your take on running a Fixed OC vs a Dynamic Offset OC?
> Will I be alright with a 4.5GHz Fixed 1.29Vcore 2400Mhz OC? Degradation overtime?
> Thanx man!


"normal" degradation happens very quickly. So palyy for a week with OC, and then you'll be able to easier find stable point. Afterwords, as long as voltages and current are not too high, you should be good for years with those voltages/clocks IMHO. No one knows 100% for sure how long that really will be though.

Fixed is easier...but...at the same time..dynamic is better.

But, Offset should also be run (IMHO) with different multipliers...if you run same multi on all cores, then offset doesn't make any real sense. We are talking the difference between 20W and 25~30W at idle. If you are concerned with power use at that level....you're using the wrong platform to begin with.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Would you set it up like this?:
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43

Also a constant 1.29Vcore too much you think?


----------



## HAVOKNW

I'm really loving this board. I had this board in my display rig at CES this year and got a lot of great compliments. Its probably the heaviest motherboard I've ever owned. The thing is a beast!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Would you set it up like this?:
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> 
> Also a constant 1.29Vcore too much you think?


Yes, similar, but maybe even higher. You can find actual turbo state listings for each CPU here:

http://www.intel.com/support/processors/corei7ee/sb/CS-032277.htm?wapkw=i7-4960x

I feel myself that up to 1.3V is OK. It is VTT and VCCSA that are more sensitive to voltage increases


----------



## MNiceGuy

Thanks for the memory advice guys! I am leaning toward the GSkill Ripjaws Z at the moment.

Before I do anything:

Am I correct in my understanding that it is inadvisable with X79 to combine two different memory kits even if they are the same part number?


----------



## Gunslinger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Thanks for the memory advice guys! I am leaning toward the GSkill Ripjaws Z at the moment.
> 
> Before I do anything:
> 
> Am I correct in my understanding that it is inadvisable with X79 to combine two different memory kits even if they are the same part number?


I've been combining kits for the entire life cycle of X79 so far and have not had any problems.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Thanks for the memory advice guys! I am leaning toward the GSkill Ripjaws Z at the moment.
> 
> Before I do anything:
> 
> Am I correct in my understanding that it is inadvisable with X79 to combine two different memory kits even if they are the same part number?


Yessir, you will most likely run into incompatibility/stability issues like a couple of us who tried to mix kits to fill all 8 dimm slots to max capacity. If you want to fill it all just buy the 8x8gb kit


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yes, similar, but maybe even higher. You can find actual turbo state listings for each CPU here:
> http://www.intel.com/support/processors/corei7ee/sb/CS-032277.htm?wapkw=i7-4960x
> I feel myself that up to 1.3V is OK. It is VTT and VCCSA that are more sensitive to voltage increases


Brilliant cadaveca.
I've found Intels Turbo Boost Frequencies table for the 4930k:
It doesn't tell me much apart from seeing how the cores are set up. 1st being the highest, 2nd, 3rd, 4th one notch lower and the last two an extra notch lower still.
http://www.intel.com/support/processors/corei7/sb/CS-032279.htm


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> I've been combining kits for the entire life cycle of X79 so far and have not had any problems.


It's only 8 GB sticks that have problems, really. 4, 2, and 1 GB DIMMS all works great and have pre-defined profiles for MAX OC in BIOS. 8 GB modules do not.

That's not to say that's ASUS' fault...

Also, keep in mind that many people have older kits from dual-channel platforms, and then buy another set... but many are getting single-sided 4GB DIMMs now, rather than dual-sided, or some get Hynix instead of Samsung, or vice-versa...

I was it was easier to make this transition, but there's many users here in this thread that have run into issues mixing kits, and it's not due to lack of skill or anything... we are only changing settings that are provided to us, not creating new settings. You've also got ASUS VGAs that aren't in retail yet, so your experience isn't going to translate for many unfortunately.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Brilliant cadaveca.
> I've found Intels Turbo Boost Frequencies table for the 4930k:


Great!

Do keep in mind that ASUS' recommendation for voltages is pretty good, and fairly safe...I just do not advocate pushing voltages until you have proven with each individual CPU that they are needed. So push 1.4V into your chip...no problem, just be sure to provide more than ample cooling. If you are using basic water or air...1.3V is going to be about the limit for most good chips, while poor ones won't even be able to run close to that.


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Yessir, you will most likely run into incompatibility/stability issues like a couple of us who tried to mix kits to fill all 8 dimm slots to max capacity. If you want to fill it all just buy the 8x8gb kit


Just pulled the trigger on Ripjaws Z 4x4GB. Thanks again for everyone who helped me out


----------



## XViper2

I have this same board with a 4930k. I have vcore manually set to 1.3ish to get my overclock up to 4.7ghz. I want to set this with offset mode but what should I start it with? My ram is running at 1866 XMP profile, no overclock on that. System is watercooled.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Also, keep in mind that many people have older kits from dual-channel platforms, and then buy another set... but many are getting single-sided 4GB DIMMs now, rather than dual-sided, or some get Hynix instead of Samsung, or vice-versa...


This....

Thanks to cadaveca who helped me out! I had some instability problems while folding for extended periods of time. I had 2 8GB kits (2x4GB). Both Corsair Platinum 1866. One set was single sided the other was double sided. That was the cause of my instability. I bought a quad channel kit of 2133 and have no issues after changing nothing but the memory.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> I have this same board with a 4930k. I have vcore manually set to 1.3ish to get my overclock up to 4.7ghz. I want to set this with offset mode but what should I start it with? My ram is running at 1866 XMP profile, no overclock on that. System is watercooled.


Yes. I'm on the same boat.
First I make sure I have a stable Fixed Vcore OC. Currently 4.5GHz 1.29Vcore 2400Mhz RAM.
Now I will save this as a Preset and move on to an Offset OC.
But before I do I will make sure I know exactly which changes I'll be making.
You cannot run an Offset while on X.M.P. You have to first set your RAM timings on Manual to allow for the CPU VCORE Voltage parameter to appear as an option.
After that I move on to making other changes: *(I haven't tried the following yet!)*
Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
{Enter RAM timings}
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
BLCK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.100 &#8230;&#8230;... .&#8230;. Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.....&#8230;&#8230; 0.005 to 0.080 _(Play with it)_
VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 1.046 V .&#8230;&#8230;.... Auto
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.030 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.009 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;......... 0.995 _(Play with it)_
CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium to High
Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled ? *(Do I have to Enable it)?*
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.020 (Play with it)
CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Manual
C1E &#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled
*

Am I doing the right thing here?* Advice appreciated!!


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myka*
> 
> QVL = Qualified Vendors List, Asus for example will list all the compatible Ram for your particular board, the list includes different speed timing CL and speed GHz combinations and in different brands, GSkill, Kingston, Corsair etc.
> 
> Ram can be very particular, it's always best to go with a QVL as a base because they have gone through Manufactures testing (to some degree and passed). It's always best to buy your kits all at once, don't buy some now and some later, as these will often give you compatibility problems even between the sane family groups.
> 
> Cheers Myka


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Yes. I'm on the same boat.
> First I make sure I have a stable Fixed Vcore OC. Currently 4.5GHz 1.29Vcore 2400Mhz RAM.
> Now I will save this as a Preset and move on to an Offset OC.
> But before I do I will make sure I know exactly which changes I'll be making.
> You cannot run an Offset while on X.M.P. You have to first set your RAM timings on Manual to allow for the CPU VCORE Voltage parameter to appear as an option.
> After that I move on to making other changes: *(I haven't tried the following yet!)*
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> {Enter RAM timings}
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> BLCK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.100 &#8230;&#8230;... .&#8230;. Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.....&#8230;&#8230; 0.005 to 0.080 _(Play with it)_
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 1.046 V .&#8230;&#8230;.... Auto
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.030 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.009 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;......... 0.995 _(Play with it)_
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium to High
> Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled ? *(Do I have to Enable it)?*
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.020 (Play with it)
> CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Manual
> C1E &#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled
> *
> 
> Am I doing the right thing here?* Advice appreciated!!


Hello AstralAnimal I would also like to start pushing a bit on my system. ..
I have a 4930K and ram 8x4 - 32GB - 2133 corsair dominator platinum. I was thinking of copying your overcclock on my system think it might go well?
Thanks in advance.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> Hello AstralAnimal I would also like to start pushing a bit on my system. ..
> I have a 4930K and ram 8x4 - 32GB - 2133 corsair dominator platinum. I was thinking of copying your overcclock on my system think it might go well?
> Thanks in advance.


No way man..! Do not just copy and paste anything. First of all I have not tried those settings yet.
At the moment I'm just looking for advice and corrections before I make any changes.
Also keep in mind that we are all using different types of RAM and CPU chips do vary, no chip is the same.
Once the settings are verified then by all means you can copy them as you see fit. No problem!


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> No way man..! Do not just copy and paste anything. First of all I have not tried those settings yet.
> At the moment I'm just looking for advice and corrections before I make any changes.
> Also keep in mind that we are all using different types of RAM and CPU chips do vary, no chip is the same.
> Once the settings are verified then by all means you can copy them as you see fit. No problem!


it certainly did not mean to copy and paste everything .. I meant to set the timings of my ram and cpu but setting ofset core as you put it .. in short copy in part meant .. anyway I am following with attention the last few pages. I will start and take a cue from your overclocking ... Hoping also an intervention of the great cadaveca ....


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> "normal" degradation happens very quickly. So palyy for a week with OC, and then you'll be able to easier find stable point. Afterwords, as long as voltages and current are not too high, you should be good for years with those voltages/clocks IMHO. No one knows 100% for sure how long that really will be though.
> Fixed is easier...but...at the same time..dynamic is better.
> But, *Offset should also be run (IMHO) with different multipliers.*..if you run same multi on all cores, then offset doesn't make any real sense. We are talking the difference between 20W and 25~30W at idle. If you are concerned with power use at that level....you're using the wrong platform to begin with.


Can you explain? I'm not sure I understand why you would think that? I certainly get better performance numbers with all core synched using offset OC vs stepped core frequencies.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Can you explain? I'm not sure I understand why you would think that? I certainly get better performance numbers with all core synched using offset OC vs stepped core frequencies.


I've noticed on the screenies you've provided of your Offset OC that you have Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology Enabled. Is that necessary?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/6950#post_22058454


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Can you explain? I'm not sure I understand why you would think that? I certainly get better performance numbers with all core synched using offset OC vs stepped core frequencies.


Heh. Why does Intel do it that way?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> it certainly did not mean to copy and paste everything .. I meant to set the timings of my ram and cpu but setting ofset core as you put it .. in short copy in part meant .. anyway I am following with attention the last few pages. I will start and take a cue from your overclocking ... Hoping also an intervention of the great cadaveca ....


Honestly..follow the ASUS guides. But, personally...don't let the board set VCCSA and VTT voltages.. manually set these(VCCSA especially, since each chip has different voltage here). Also, I like to start with low voltage and work my way up, rather than just picking a higher voltage and seeing what I get. Starting votalge I choose based on what the chip gets at "stock", and work my way up from there. When you run into an issue, ask a direct question aobut the problem, and I'll do my best to give you a reasonable answer.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Yes. I'm on the same boat.
> First I make sure I have a stable Fixed Vcore OC. Currently 4.5GHz 1.29Vcore 2400Mhz RAM.
> Now I will save this as a Preset and move on to an Offset OC.
> But before I do I will make sure I know exactly which changes I'll be making.
> You cannot run an Offset while on X.M.P. You have to first set your RAM timings on Manual to allow for the CPU VCORE Voltage parameter to appear as an option.
> After that I move on to making other changes: *(I haven't tried the following yet!)*
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> {Enter RAM timings}
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> BLCK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.100 &#8230;&#8230;... .&#8230;. Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.....&#8230;&#8230; 0.005 to 0.080 _(Play with it)_
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 1.046 V .&#8230;&#8230;.... Auto
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.030 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.009 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;......... 0.995 _(Play with it)_
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium to High
> Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled ? *(Do I have to Enable it)?*
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.020 (Play with it)
> CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Manual
> C1E &#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled
> *
> 
> Am I doing the right thing here?* Advice appreciated!!


Looks good! I don't see a reason to have stepped core turbo limits, and have not done so beginning with my 2700K, SB-Es or IB-E CPUs. Yes, you want to have speedstep enabled (basis of using offset OC), and you can leave C states on Auto (i have been doing so for months without C1E issues). In windows you should disable Sleep (Sleep = never) and in Power, make sure "min proc state" = 0% and Max proc state = 100%.

With the exception of all-out benchmarking, where a fixed vcore is worth a few extra points (and gunslinger can sure push electrons around) using a fixed vcore kinda defeats the last decade of R&D at Intel which has now provided dynamic clocks and voltage control.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> *Heh. Why does Intel do it that way?*
> Honestly..follow the ASUS guides. But, personally...don't let the board set VCCSA and VTT voltages.. manually set these(VCCSA especially, since each chip has different voltage here). Also, I like to start with low voltage and work my way up, rather than just picking a higher voltage and seeing what I get. Starting votalge I choose based on what the chip gets at "stock", and work my way up from there. When you run into an issue, ask a direct question aobut the problem, and I'll do my best to give you a reasonable answer.


good question. OEM safe harbour? Hasn't been a problem at all thru 3 generations for me. All cores down clock and down volt. Maybe to limit current? Or transients? But at load , we run all cores synched when using fixed vcore... why not do the same for offset since once under load, ... it don't matter.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Awesome!
Can you provide voltage limitations (Maximums) for:
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage .....
VTT CPU Voltage .....
2nd VTTCPU Voltage .....
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage .....

cadaveca was saying that VTT and VCCSA are the most sensitive to voltage increases.
Just to make sure I don't go over and inadvertently cause damage to my chip.
Thank you!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I don't see a reason to have stepped core turbo limits


I do nothing but play with motherboards from all vendors, and memory kits of all sorts. There is a method to the madness, so to speak, just like how I like MFR-based DIMMS, when "benchers" think they are garbage. I am in NO WAY saying that that's the only way to do it, but I HAVE found that you get the best results overall with OFFSET mode using mixed multis, and I know that Haswell is one of those chips that really shows this to be true, and was even advised to take this approach with Haswell by some OEMs.

At the same time, what you said above about Intel's developing certain things a certain way rings true to my approach. I do "play it safe" with my recommendations more often than not...but I've also helped out many users even here in this thread using my own "tactics"... So the best I can say is that there is a time and place for everything, and where you disable stuff or features (like sleep), I leave EVERYTHING on. I also suggested that users not use PLL overvolt in the past when it caused issues with sleep...but it doesn't now, so my opinion there has changed for newer platforms.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Awesome!
> Can you provide voltage limitations (Maximums) for:
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage .....
> VTT CPU Voltage .....
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage .....
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage .....
> 
> Just to make sure I don't go over and inadvertently cause damage to my chip.
> Thank you!


see table 7.8 pg 60... these are max values. for like $25 you can buy the intel tuning plan, ... overclocker insurance.

4th-gen-core-i7-lga2011-datasheet-vol-1.pdf 880k .pdf file


What's safe? That is kinda a personal risk tolerance call. All silicon degrades at any current flow, it's just whether you want to keep using that chip for geologic time, or thru a few generations.
certainly stay below 1.4V vcore, and personally, I stay belw 1.15Vtt1, 1.13 VSA. Vtt2 should just be left on auto for us average overclockers.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> *I do nothing but play with motherboards from all vendors, and memory kits of all sorts*. There is a method to the madness, so to speak, just like how I like MFR-based DIMMS, when "benchers" think they are garbage. I am in NO WAY saying that that's the only way to do it, but I HAVE found that you get the best results overall with OFFSET mode using mixed multis, and I know that Haswell is one of those chips that really shows this to be true, and was even advised to take this approach with Haswell by some OEMs.
> 
> At the same time, what you said above about Intel's developing certain things a certain way rings true to my approach. I do "play it safe" with my recommendations more often than not...but I've also helped out many users even here in this thread using my own "tactics"... So the best I can say is that there is a time and place for everything, and where you disable stuff or features (like sleep), I leave EVERYTHING on. I also suggested that users not use PLL overvolt in the past when it caused issues with sleep...but it doesn't now, so my opinion there has changed for newer platforms.


yeah, I understand. The community certainly appreciates the help you provide!
regarding Offset and core synch, By best results (in my case) I'm referring to multithreaded performance, simply measured with the usual suspect benchmarks... and you have my condolences (on the highlighted).


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> certainly stay below 1.4V vcore, and personally, I stay belw 1.15Vtt1, 1.13 VSA. Vtt2 should just be left on auto for us average overclockers.


That's great info. Than you!
What about maximum for
CPU VCORE Voltage on Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; ???


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yeah, I understand. The community certainly appreciates the help you provide!
> regarding Offset and core synch, By best results (in my case) I'm referring to multithreaded performance, simply measured with the usual suspect benchmarks... and you have my condolences (on the highlighted).


yeah, I mean, multi-threaded benchmarks will of course show all cores equal being faster.. but it's marginal. At the same time, if cooling is an issue (enter Haswell), using higher multis for workloads that use less threads can get you a bit of added performance where you might otherwise be limited. So, with Haswell, or IVB-E on air.. there is a definite benefit possible as it relates to performance in that situation.

As the the hardware...it keeps me busy...idle hands, ya know.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> That's great info. Than you!
> What about maximum for
> CPU VCORE Voltage on Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; ???


The same rules apply, it's just that every CPU has different VID, so every offset to reach that 1.4 V or so is going to be different. You'll have to figure out what your base VID and voltage are before anyone can answer that.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> every offset to reach that 1.4 V or so is going to be different. You'll have to figure out what your base VID and voltage are before anyone can answer that.


Ok..
Base VID. Yes! First thing to find.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> That's great info. Than you!
> What about maximum for
> CPU VCORE Voltage on Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; ???


The question is a bit worrisome. Required Offset voltage will be determined by the idle vcore your chip needs (remember, offset affects idle and load vcore... turbo affects load vcore only). So keep Offset as low as possible, and use Turbo voltage to address the dynamic demand for power under load.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> The question is a bit worrisome. Required Offset voltage will be determined by the idle vcore your chip needs (remember, offset affects idle and load vcore... turbo affects load vcore only). So keep Offset as low as possible, and use Turbo voltage to address the dynamic demand for power under load.


Beautiful explanation. Thank you!

For an Offset OC, this is what I came up with:
▼_(Not tested of course, but it looks good on paper)_▼


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



R4BE BIOS Overclock: (4.6GHz CPU Offset, Dynamic Vcore 2400MHz RAM)

Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
(Enter RAM Timings Manually)
CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100.000
CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. DDR3-2400MHz (or 2133MHz)
Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled (?)
Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 0.000 &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;. Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.005 to 0.080+ (Max of 1.4V)
(Offset affects idle and load Vcore. Keep Offset as low as possible)
VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.000 V .&#8230;&#8230;..... Auto (Max of 1.15V)
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 0.000 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 0.000 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Manual
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 0.995 (Max of 1.13V)
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.650 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.... 1.650
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.650 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... 1.650
CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.796 V &#8230;....&#8230;. Auto
PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 1.100 V &#8230;&#8230;.... Auto
Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled

CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium (High, Auto)
CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled (?)
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto (?)
DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100% (110%+)
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100% (110%+)
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto

Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Enabled
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.020
(Turbo affects load Vcore only. Increase to address dynamic demand for power under load)
CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;..&#8230;. All
Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;........&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled

CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto (or Manual)
(C1E &#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled)

Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*


Would appreciate your input on this.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Would appreciate your input on this.


His VCCSA is at 1.18V. A little too high right? Max being 1.13V.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> His VCCSA is at 1.18V. A little too high right? Max being 1.13V.


1.13V is my (self imposed) preference, 1.18 is not out of bounds, but high for my liking. However, that ram kit seems to require a high(er) VSA. I was referring Cadaveca to the loss of memory throughput at 2666 vs 2400.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Beautiful explanation. Thank you!
> 
> This is what I came up with: _(Not tested of course, but it looks good on paper)_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> R4BE BIOS Overclock: (4.6GHz CPU Offset, Dynamic Vcore 2400MHz RAM)
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> (Enter RAM Timings Manually)
> CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> BLCK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100.000
> CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. DDR3-2400MHz (or 2133MHz)
> Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled (?)
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> BLCK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 0.000 &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;. Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.005 to 0.080+ (Max of 1.4V)
> (Offset affects idle and load Vcore. Keep Offset as low as possible)
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.000 V .&#8230;&#8230;..... Auto (Max of 1.15V)
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 0.000 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 0.000 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Manual
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 0.995 (Max of 1.13V)
> DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.650 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.... 1.650
> DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.650 V &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... 1.650
> CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.796 V &#8230;....&#8230;. Auto
> PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 1.100 V &#8230;&#8230;.... Auto
> Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
> BLCK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> 
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium, High or Auto
> CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
> Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled (Enabled)
> CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
> VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
> CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto (?)
> DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 110% (100%)
> DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
> DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 110% (100%)
> DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
> PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> 
> Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Enabled
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.020
> (Turbo affects load Vcore only. Increase to address dynamic demand for power under load)
> CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;..&#8230;. All
> Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;........&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
> Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled
> 
> CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto (or Manual)
> (C1E &#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled)
> 
> Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled


Load it up and test, keep an eye on your cpu temperatures... *BUT just for clarity:*

_*CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.005 to 0.080+ (Max of 1.4V)*_

1.4V is the maximum applied vcore recommended by Intel (this is OCN... many members go waaay higher), not what you can (or should ever) set as an Offset voltage, which is added on top of the chip's VID (mV per Hz preprogrammed load line... erm, curve). When you use offset OC, bios will not show you the applied vcore, since there is no load. You have to get into windows to see the resulting vcore. open cpuZ right when windows loads and it will be close to the loaded vcore (+/- your LLC setting). If you have access to a multimeter, using the read point on the R4BE is the best way to know what your voltages are.

BTW - how are you cooling the CPU??

It's not all that complicated, just go slow, test, and adjust as needed.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> When you use offset OC, bios will not show you the applied vcore, since there is no load. You have to get into windows to see the resulting vcore. open cpuZ right when windows loads and it will be close to the loaded vcore (+/- your LLC setting).
> BTW - how are you cooling the CPU??


Thanx Jpmboy, much appreciated!
I'm on air from 35ºC to 60ºC
I think for the 4930k the max recommended TCASE (Inner chip Temperature) is 66.8°C

"Every 10°C up from 70°C will reduce CPU life time by about 1 year
Every 10°C up from 120°C will reduce VR life time by about 50%
Temperature over 100°C will cause capacitor leakage."
(Source: Intel)

So I could set up CPU-z to load at Windows start up and quickly check the Offset load Vcore therein.
What does VID stand for, again?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Thanx Jpmboy, much appreciated!
> I'm on air from 35ºC to 60ºC
> I think for the 4930k the max recommended TCASE (Inner chip Temperature) is 66.8°C
> 
> "Every 10°C up from 70°C will reduce CPU life time by about 1 year
> Every 10°C up from 120°C will reduce VR life time by about 50%
> Temperature over 100°C will cause capacitor leakage."
> (Source: Intel)
> 
> So I could set up CPU-z to load at Windows start up and quickly check the Offset load Vcore therein.
> What does VID stand for, again?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1238019/what-is-cpu-vid/0_20

yes you can, re: cpuZ... but not a bad idea to minimize the number of additional procs/services loading while windows does... windows already starts a shipload of services/OS apps. just make a short cut and click when you need it. Especially when first setting up your rig.








let us know how your OC experience gores.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Would appreciate your input on this.


It is what it is. To get BCLK clocking working, it's simply not as "tight", and that's all the way down to CPU cache performance, too. At the same time, you went from CAS9 2400 to CAS11 2666 rather than CAS10 2400 ~ CAS11 2666, or CAS9 2400 ~ CAS10 2666. Ivy, Haswell, IVB-E..they all do this, and it's the platform, not the board. That's why I suggest 2133 and 100 BCLK with SKT2011...it's most optimal. Haswell and Ivy are good at 2800/100.

The other way to look at it is to take that 2133 MHz divider, get it as tight as possible in every way, and then scale the bus up. You'll see the drop in performance pretty clearly. Pushing higher voltage can sometimes "increase' performance, if the clock you are running isn't fully stable, and I don't think you're 100% stable there, either.

Also, try the profiles in BIOS for your mem ICs. They are pretty good, and you'll see what's changed to get there, too.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I wanted to test Offset Mode, but I have missed something, I think

To 4500mhz in load (36x125)

VID: 1.115v (CoreTemp and Aida64)
Vcore: 1.265v (stable)

So I put a positive offset to 0.16, but I have a nice BSOD,
More, the 0.16 is in purple (or red, I believe) in the bios
And in the bios, it indicates 1.16v for vcore...

I tested from +0.005 to +0.030, no boot
With 0.040 (1.040v in the bios), BSOD for Windows
With 0.050 (1.056v in the bios), BSOD for Windows

I think I would have 0.27v to boot and be stable....









I forgot something?

Thanks


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on Ripjaws Z 4x4GB. Thanks again for everyone who helped me out


You will like them Congrats!


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I wanted to test Offset Mode, but I have missed something, I think
> 
> To 4500mhz in load (36x125)
> 
> VID: 1.115v (CoreTemp and Aida64)
> Vcore: 1.265v (stable)
> 
> So I put a positive offset to 0.16, but I have a nice BSOD,
> More, the 0.16 is in purple (or red, I believe) in the bios
> And in the bios, it indicates 1.16v for vcore...
> 
> I tested from +0.005 to +0.030, no boot
> With 0.040 (1.040v in the bios), BSOD for Windows
> With 0.050 (1.056v in the bios), BSOD for Windows
> 
> I think I would have 0.27v to boot and be stable....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot something?
> Thanks


Did you add any "additional turbo voltage" ?


----------



## XViper2

I tried setting the offset mode and it passes IBT.

It's running at 4.6 @ 1.265v with offset of 0.06

However, playing Titanfall, it sometimes hardlocks my computer. More turbo voltage offset? Turbo offset is at 0.02

I played and started with AstralAnimal's setting he posted. My ram runs at 1866 @ 1.5v so that's really the only thing I changed. I left any overclocking of the ram alone.

I did set CPU LLC to High. it would BSOD if set to Medium booting into Windows.

Ideas?


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> I tried setting the offset mode and it passes IBT.
> 
> It's running at 4.6 @ 1.265v with offset of 0.06
> 
> However, playing Titanfall, it sometimes hardlocks my computer. More turbo voltage offset? Turbo offset is at 0.02
> 
> I played and started with AstralAnimal's setting he posted. My ram runs at 1866 @ 1.5v so that's really the only thing I changed. I left any overclocking of the ram alone.
> 
> I did set CPU LLC to High. it would BSOD if set to Medium booting into Windows.
> 
> Ideas?


I would add more turbo voltage. Have you run prime95, etc..?


----------



## XViper2

I haven't tried running prime yet. To be honest, it passed IBT with 0.05 offset.

Ran IBT on very high and it passed with highest core temp at 62c.

I saw it crash in Titanfall so I decided to up the offset voltage. Oddly it still crashes occasionally.

I will try to increase turbo voltage to see if it will solve this. I think running at the 0.05 offset is good and all I really have to change is turbo voltage.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> I hope that someone will correct me if I am wrong here, this is my understanding of what it is supposed to be, though I think that what gets reported is sometimes wrong.
> 
> Your processor has a load line that is Mhz vs voltage that is programmed into the chip, For every frequency you processor can run at, a voltage is assigned. Higher frequencies require a higher voltage than lower frequencies. It is this voltage that is the VID, and it depends on the frequency the processor is running at. The Processor tells the Voltage Regulator on the Motherboard what voltage to run at.
> 
> When you choose an absolute Vcore for the processor to run at in BIOS, you throw away the VID and run it at what you specified and at full frequency.
> 
> When you choose offset mode for Vcore, the offset (+ or -) is relative to the programmed VID and hence follows the load line as you change frequency. In this mode you can use power savings to reduce the frequency that the processor runs when not under load, and Vcore will follow the load line for the voltage adjusted by the offset. You can't do this using an absolute value for Vcore.


So in simple terms the VID is the voltage that the CPU draws from the motherboards Load Line to run it's frequencies.
If I run the CPU at higher core frequencies, my VID will change accordingly to CPU power requirements.
So if I have a Fixed Vcore is the VID "bypassed"..?
and when I run an Offset the VID becomes Dynamic..?
No wonder I cannot see a VID value on Real Temp, since VID is not used when running a Fixed Vcore.









Awesome XViper2. Would love to see your results. Hope you manage to stabilize it. Good on you man!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It is what it is. To get BCLK clocking working, it's simply not as "tight", and that's all the way down to CPU cache performance, too. At the same time, you went from CAS9 2400 to CAS11 2666 rather than CAS10 2400 ~ CAS11 2666, or CAS9 2400 ~ CAS10 2666. Ivy, Haswell, IVB-E..they all do this, and it's the platform, not the board. That's why I suggest 2133 and 100 BCLK with SKT2011...it's most optimal. Haswell and Ivy are good at 2800/100.
> The other way to look at it is to take that 2133 MHz divider, get it as tight as possible in every way, and then scale the bus up. You'll see the drop in performance pretty clearly. Pushing higher voltage can sometimes "increase' performance, if the clock you are running isn't fully stable, and I don't think you're 100% stable there, either.
> Also, try the profiles in BIOS for your mem ICs. They are pretty good, and you'll see what's changed to get there, too.


with the exception of the 2400T1 results, those are a 2400c9 kit and a 2666c11 kits, both gskill. The read performance at 2666 is the spurious result. Both are stable cpu and memory OCs. Anyway, thanks for the input.
my normal 24/7 settings are 2203c8


----------



## NEOAethyr

With 100mhz strap, vcore offset acts like it should.
With 125mhz strap, bewarned lol, offset voltage does not act normal.

At 125mhz strap..., I think was +0.2v you needed to add to get it to stock voltage.
It's been a while though, I would start at +0.1v and check to see if it is the same as a 0.005v offset at 100mhz strap in the bios.
Another method is to directly set the boot voltage to 1.2v, but if you didn't add anything to the offset it will crash after the raid rom.
But anyways double check because I can't remember if it was 0.2v or not (pretty sure it was though).

Also, I don't recommend using windows to check your vcore without having some idea where abouts you're actually are with it.
Because if you end up jacking it up to high and reach windows, you cpu will die withing a few secs after booting windows.

Also, if you have set an vcore offset voltage using 125mhz, and you have a config for that tested and everything blah blah, and decide to back down to 100mhz with the same offset, you'll be in trouble.
Like I said, 125mhz has some sort of -0.2v offset form the get go starting at 0 ^^ (I mean 0 as a ref, it affect the -'s of course as well...).

So don't fret about high offsets at 125mhz strap, that's normal, remember stock voltage is 1.2v on load.
The bios does not run it at load though, it's a newer bios it idles like it should







.

I think the reason for this issue is because at higher straps the cpu doesn't really idle like it should anymore.
I messed around twice on it, 2nd time I got it to try but there was something missing I forget now.
That's why I clock the 100mhz strap, you should beable to get 110 at least with a good cpu, bad ones eh maybe not but a bit lower should be ok.
There's no getting 2800mhz+ ram stable with that though.


----------



## AstralAnimal

I ain't touching the BCLK Strap.
Leaving it at 100MHz.
But yeah. Thank you for the info. I've read people had problems doing a Base Clock OC and apparently X79s have difficulty on that regard.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> I wanted to test Offset Mode, but I have missed something, I think
> To 4500mhz in load (36x125)
> VID: 1.115v (CoreTemp and Aida64)
> Vcore: 1.265v (stable)
> So I put a positive offset to 0.16, but I have a nice BSOD,
> More, the 0.16 is in purple (or red, I believe) in the bios
> And in the bios, it indicates 1.16v for vcore...
> I tested from +0.005 to +0.030, no boot
> With 0.040 (1.040v in the bios), BSOD for Windows
> With 0.050 (1.056v in the bios), BSOD for Windows
> I think I would have 0.27v to boot and be stable....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot something?
> Thanks


Please go back and re-read posts from the last two days. for 4.5GHz your settings should be more like 5mV (0,005V) offset and 20mV (0,020V) turbo. setting +160mV is red/purple is to warn you you are waaay to high!!! Bios will not show load vcore...since there is no load in bios.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> I tried setting the offset mode and it passes IBT.
> It's running at 4.6 @ 1.265v with offset of 0.06
> However, playing Titanfall, it sometimes hardlocks my computer. More turbo voltage offset? Turbo offset is at 0.02
> I played and started with AstralAnimal's setting he posted. My ram runs at 1866 @ 1.5v so that's really the only thing I changed. I left any overclocking of the ram alone.
> I did set CPU LLC to High. it would BSOD if set to Medium booting into Windows.
> Ideas?


no bsod, just a hard lock?
[email protected] is very good... maybe a bit low for that frequency.
I would switch your offset and turbo around. (rule of thumb: offset << turbo) keep all your settings as is (be sure you have your memory timings entered manually and correctly. a hard lock is likely memory)
Only rarely do I use more than 10mV Offset... Turbo I have run up to 128mV @ 4.9GHz (http://www.overclock.net/t/1431032/top-cinebench-r15-cpu-scores/420_20#post_21721801)

46x100 should be like:
VTT1 = auto (@1866)
vsa = 1.000 or 0.995
CPU PLL overvoltage = enabled
CPU PLL = auto
LLC = high
cpu power = auto (=140%)
offset = 0.005
additional turbo (enabled power limit control) = 0.020 to 0.030
memory power and phase = 100% and Standard for 1866
Memory Mode = 3


----------



## XViper2

Yeah, it was thanks to this thread I decided to mess with dynamic voltages. It had it set to 1.38v and 4.7ghz.

It's solid BUT one of the core temps reaches above 70c which makes me leery. I know it can run with much less voltage.

More tweaking necessary.

AstralAnimal, let me know what voltages you ended up using on yours.

I didn't mess with my memory timings. Gskill 1866. I set it exactly. No overclock or overvoltage on the ram.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> So in simple terms the VID is the voltage that the CPU draws from the motherboards Load Line to run it's frequencies.
> If I run the CPU at higher core frequencies, my VID will change accordingly to CPU power requirements.
> So if I have a Fixed Vcore is the VID "bypassed"..?
> and when I run an Offset the VID becomes Dynamic..?
> No wonder I cannot see a VID value on Real Temp, since VID is not used when running a Fixed Vcore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome XViper2. Would love to see your results. Hope you manage to stabilize it. Good on you man!


regarding VID and offset/turbo ... basically IGNORE what any OS software reports as VID when using dynamic frequency and voltage control. (some OC'er will freak reading that







) It provides no necessary resolution guidance as to how well you are doing or what you are doing while Offset overclocking . Realtemp's reading of VID will change at the same frequency and load if you change the turbo voltage applied. (thx to hotrod for ferreting that out)

VID is a fixed value on a mV per Hz curve at any given frequency and load and is different for each chip. It does not impact the manner or strategy of overclocking your cpu in this setting. The most important parameters to watch are load vcore (and partial load vcore, like when windows loads) and cpu temperature (the hottest core if not synched) when testing your overclock.

remember:

Offset voltage is applied to both idle and load states
Turbo voltage is applied only to the load state.

If you system is hanging at idle - add Offset, 101/124 bsod at load - add turbo (but be reasonable)
if your machine is just switching off and restarting with no BSOD bugcheck core, adjust your dram settings and voltage... and VTT/VSA slightly.

\get a copy of cinebench R15 for a quick stability test, then follow with p95 (custom, 5min/FFT, 12288 ram if you have 16GB) for at least 20min.. preferably 1h. Use 5 min per FFT to test more of the architecture quickly. 1 hour stability with those settings and you should be game stable (assuming the game is







)

Enjoy!


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Yeah, it was thanks to this thread I decided to mess with dynamic voltages. It had it set to 1.38v and 4.7ghz.
> 
> It's solid BUT one of the core temps reaches above 70c which makes me leery. I know it can run with much less voltage.
> 
> More tweaking necessary.
> 
> AstralAnimal, let me know what voltages you ended up using on yours.


No problemos. Will post them as soon as I run them and verify them.








In your case try systematically increasing your Turbo as mentioned.
Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.020 to 0.030+
This may help when system in under heavy load, (Playing games, etc)

Could someone give us a general idea of what is the Safe Max on the Turbo...?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Yeah, it was thanks to this thread I decided to mess with dynamic voltages. It had it set to 1.38v and 4.7ghz.
> It's solid BUT one of the core temps reaches above 70c which makes me leery. I know it can run with much less voltage.
> More tweaking necessary.
> AstralAnimal, let me know what voltages you ended up using on yours.


I wouldn't use IBT for a 6 core processor... except for testing my cooling method. p95, a little R15, if you can get FPUVP8 (in AID64) is all you need before real-world.


----------



## XViper2

I have triple R9 290x's so it sucks up power like no tomorrow.

For cooling, I have dual quad XSPC radiators. Will post pics when I get back home.

Why do we set core speeds individually? Couldn't we just use sync cores?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> I have triple R9 290x's so it sucks up power like no tomorrow.
> 
> For cooling, I have dual quad XSPC radiators. Will post pics when I get back home.


sounds like you have thermals under control







Yeah, I run 2-3 cards in SLI... that's the heat source!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> No problemos. Will post them as soon as I run them and verify them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In your case try systematically increasing your Turbo as mentioned.
> Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.020 to 0.030+
> This may help when system in under heavy load, (Playing games, etc)
> 
> *Could someone give us a general idea of what is the Safe Max on the Turbo...?*


No! you should never even approach it...


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> No! you should never even approach it...


Haha! I guess I'm making you worried again.. Understandably so.
I ask because if my system hangs while under heavy load and I decide to up the Turbo wouldn't want to add too much.
But it seems to me that it is relative to the Offset. So yeah. I get the point!
Asking silly questions can save my life..


----------



## XViper2

Oh I wanted to know about this too:

Why do we set core speeds individually? Couldn't we just use sync cores?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Oh I wanted to know about this too:
> 
> Why do we set core speeds individually? Couldn't we just use sync cores?


I use synched cores. Works fine.


----------



## skupples

I started using sync with ivy, mostly because I was using AIO or air before then and most games were using only 1-2 cores.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I started using sync with ivy, mostly because I was using AIO or air before then and most games were using only 1-2 cores.


thx bud. hey - sold one of my KPEs... 295x2 arriving today. hope to test it some this weekend.


----------



## XViper2

Since I am getting hardlocks from gaming, could the ram require more voltage? I don't see why it would be needed as it says 1.5v is necessary. If I set it auto, it goes to like 1.67v.

Do I need to mess with the ram voltage to get it stable?

I'm going to try the turbo voltage first though.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Oh I wanted to know about this too:
> 
> Why do we set core speeds individually? Couldn't we just use sync cores?


you could, but power consumption will be higher than needed for many workloads. It's about getting the proper power efficiency vs performance/clock, for those with "poor" chips. Thats' why Intel does it...to keep the chips within TDP. But load up many of our chips @ 4.0 GHz across all cores, and you're looking at 160-175W of power consumed by the chip.

Don't forget that Cache speed is dictated by CPU core speed, so there are performance impacts beyond just CPU speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Since I am getting hardlocks from gaming, could the ram require more voltage? I don't see why it would be needed as it says 1.5v is necessary. If I set it auto, it goes to like 1.67v.
> 
> Do I need to mess with the ram voltage to get it stable?
> 
> I'm going to try the turbo voltage first though.


No other problems? Try VCCSA/VTT. You can't go wrong taking Jpmboy's advice. It's just not the only approach, yet at the same time, he's gonna guide you to stability.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Well.. I've managed to boot into Windows on 4.6 GHz Offset 0.040V and Turbo on 0.020 with RAM at 2133 (9-11-11-28) 1.65V
I've passed the Cinebench CPU test but my temps went up to 68ºC. Temps were better with Fixed OC.
Will play around some more. What can I do to lower the temps a bit?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Well.. I've managed to boot into Windows on 4.6 GHz Offset 0.040V and Turbo on 0.020 with RAM at 2133 (9-11-11-28) 1.65V
> I've passed the Cinebench CPU test but my temps went up to 68ºC. Temps were better with Fixed OC.
> Will play around some more. What can I do to lower the temps a bit?


again - try offset @ 0.005V and additional turbo @ 0.05V +/- what's needed to hold the frequency. *what was the cpuZ vcore reading during R15*?? is that with unsynched cores? and was the max T on one or 2 cores only?

r15 score is a reasonable assessment of your cpu productivity (little effect by mem freq). a 4.6GHz 4930K should be over 1200... and closer to 1250 (... with cores synched). you just need to tune things up a bit. gotta have patience when tuning an overclock.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> you could, but power consumption will be higher than needed for many workloads. It's about getting the proper power efficiency vs performance/clock, for those with "poor" chips. Thats' why Intel does it...to keep the chips within TDP. But load up many of our chips @ 4.0 GHz across all cores, and you're looking at 160-175W of power consumed by the chip.
> 
> Don't forget that Cache speed is dictated by CPU core speed, so there are performance impacts beyond just CPU speed.
> No other problems? Try VCCSA/VTT. *You can't go wrong taking Jpmboy's advice.* It's just not the only approach, yet at the same time, he's gonna guide you to stability.


well.. you can if patience is lost









let me dump my 46x100 settings as a rough guide...

settings, not actual readings, which are the defaults (I changed bclk to get to 46x100, so I do a clrcmos between straps and bclks)
Each cpu and rig is different, your settings will be tweaked vs these.

140424110747.zip 1639k .zip file

p95 running (while editing this post:



F12 during the 20min p95 run:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Digital multimeter reading:
vcore 1.310V
VSA 1.02
VTT 1.06
PCH1.1 1.06
PCH1.5 1.5
Drama/b 1.667
Dram c/d 1.667.

JLMS2010 - haven't needed to adjust CPU PLL, but I have lowered it to ~ 1.75V. VTT, for my system, needs to be raised at 2400 and 2666 ram, 1.13, and 1.16V.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> well.. you can if patience is lost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> let me dump my 46x100 settings as a rough guide...
> 
> settings, not actual readings, which are the defaults (I changed bclk to get to 46x100, so I do a clrcmos between straps and bclks)
> Each cpu and rig is different, your settings will be tweaked vs these.
> 
> 140424110747.zip 1639k .zip file
> 
> p95 running (while editing this post:


Do you find you ever need to manually set CPU PLL Voltage and VTT CPU voltage?


----------



## fishingfanatic

Just curious, wouldn't benching scores b worse if they're not synced?

Think I'll give it a go just 2 c....lol









FF


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> Just curious, wouldn't benching scores b worse if they're not synced?
> Think I'll give it a go just 2 c....lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FF


_assuming multithreaded_... they are lower when unsynched. But then again, you r best scores would probably come from a fixed vcore approach. (hasn't made a big diff for me... yet







)


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> well.. you can if patience is lost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> let me dump my 46x100 settings as a rough guide...
> 
> settings, not actual readings, which are the defaults (I changed bclk to get to 46x100, so I do a clrcmos between straps and bclks)
> Each cpu and rig is different, your settings will be tweaked vs these.
> 
> 140424110747.zip 1639k .zip file
> 
> p95 running (while editing this post:


NICE settings. I may have to set the ram adjustments

Jpmboy, is your ram overclocked or is it supposed to run at 2133mhz?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> NICE settings. I may have to set the ram adjustments
> 
> Jpmboy, is your ram overclocked or is it supposed to run at 2133mhz?


Any ram on the R4BE running >1866 is an "overclock". (cadaveca is the resident expert on this). That specific example is with a GSkill 2400 9-11-11-31 4x4 kit. 2133c8 is a sweet spot for my IMC... up to 2203 or so it holds 8-10-10-21-91-1T at VTT 1.05V. When I go to 2400 or higher, VTT will go hiugher (on auto.. all the way to 1.25V ! but it only really needs 1.13V @ 2400) Runs fine at 2400, but no real-world difference between 2133 and 2400 (or 1866 for that matter). Benchmarking is a different issue.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Thanks for the memory advice guys! I am leaning toward the GSkill Ripjaws Z at the moment.
> 
> Before I do anything:
> 
> Am I correct in my understanding that it is inadvisable with X79 to combine two different memory kits even if they are the same part number?


it is always inadvisable to mix ram kits with any CPU/mobo. that said you can and without issue, but you also can have issues
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I started using sync with ivy, mostly because I was using AIO or air before then and most games were using only 1-2 cores.
> 
> 
> 
> thx bud. hey - sold one of my KPEs... 295x2 arriving today. hope to test it some this weekend.
Click to expand...

please keep me informed !~ i am thinking about this card ( x2 ) for myself once some waterblocks are out. i will not put an AIO let alone a trolltek ( asetek ) in my pc.... ever it is like another company that has a half eaten fruit as its logo. you can take your patent trolling and shove it !


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is always inadvisable to mix ram kits with any CPU/mobo. that said you can and without issue, but you also can have issues
> please keep me informed !~ i am thinking about this card ( x2 ) for myself *once some waterblocks are out.* i will not put an AIO let alone a trolltek ( asetek ) in my pc.... ever it is like another company that has a half eaten fruit as its logo. you can take your patent trolling and shove it !


I am soooo tempted to disconnect the AIO and hook it into my water system


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I am soooo tempted to disconnect the AIO and hook it into my water system












I'm basically coming to terms with the fact that running tri-SLI 780 Ti requires watercooling. I really didn't want to have to go down that road...but after dumping over 2K into VGAs...it looks like I gotta spend a bit more yet.

I'm just happy that both my RIVBE boards seem to be working great now, and I have nothing to complain about the board itself... any left over issues I have are all cooling.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Did you add any "additional turbo voltage" ?


No, just multi x36
Mode turbo is AUTO, I believe

If someone could give me the bios settings to apply to be sure it works

Thanks


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm basically coming to terms with the fact that running tri-SLI 780 Ti requires watercooling. I really didn't want to have to go down that road...but after dumping over 2K into VGAs...it looks like I gotta spend a bit more yet.
> 
> I'm just happy that both my RIVBE boards seem to be working great now, and I have nothing to complain about the board itself... any left over issues I have are all cooling.


Nice. Yeah I couldn't even think about air with my 3 780's. Especially since they aren't the reference blower style!


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> No, just multi x36
> Mode turbo is AUTO, I believe
> 
> If someone could give me the bios settings to apply to be sure it works
> 
> Thanks


cadaveca posted some on page 300 of this thread I believe. Here you go...http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/2990

Jpmboy attached some bios screen shots a page back.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Nice. Yeah I couldn't even think about air with my 3 780's. Especially since they aren't the reference blower style!


I do have reference-cooled cards, but they throttle pretty hard still. the newest NVidia driver has lessen that throttle, but for sure my cards run hotter than they should, even with just one installed.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I am soooo tempted to disconnect the AIO and hook it into my water system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm basically coming to terms with the fact that running tri-SLI 780 Ti requires watercooling. I really didn't want to have to go down that road...but after dumping over 2K into VGAs...it looks like I gotta spend a bit more yet.
> 
> I'm just happy that both my RIVBE boards seem to be working great now, and I have nothing to complain about the board itself... any left over issues I have are all cooling.
Click to expand...

imo everything NEEDS water, everything should come with a good waterblock preattached and made of copper !~


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I do have reference-cooled cards, but they throttle pretty hard still. the newest NVidia driver has lessen that throttle, but for sure my cards run hotter than they should, even with just one installed.


Oh wow...yeah you need water.







That's the Air 540 case right?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo everything NEEDS water, everything should come with a good waterblock preattached and made of copper !~


What's frustrating is that the fan never goes over 50%...yet if I manually set fan speed, the cooler is more than enough. 100%, I get no throttle. These cards just have crappy fan control, IMHO. I don't care about the noise.. clearly the cooling is needed...

I'm kind of tempted to sell these three cards and get a couple of K1ngp1n cards. I think this board deserves it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Oh wow...yeah you need water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the Air 540 case right?


Yep. Nice case, really, for the money.


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo everything NEEDS water, everything should come with a good waterblock preattached and made of copper !~


I'm going to have to agree with this post 100%%. I don't have 780's but my r9 290x's generate enormous amounts of heat.

I had three of them on my brother's rig once and it sounded like we were in a wind tunnel.

Anyone that can afford triple video cards can afford some waterblocks. *flame suit on*


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> What's frustrating is that the fan never goes over 50%...yet if I manually set fan speed, the cooler is more than enough. 100%, I get no throttle. These cards just have crappy fan control, IMHO. I don't care about the noise.. clearly the cooling is needed...
> 
> I'm kind of tempted to sell these three cards and get a couple of K1ngp1n cards. I think this board deserves it.
> Yep. Nice case, really, for the money.


Yeah I've used it a couple times. I really like it too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> I'm going to have to agree with this post 100%%. I don't have 780's but my r9 290x's generate enormous amounts of heat.
> 
> I had three of them on my brother's rig once and it sounded like we were in a wind tunnel.
> 
> Anyone that can afford triple video cards can afford some waterblocks. *flame suit on*


Yeah, I think I will agree with that.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo everything NEEDS water, everything should come with a good waterblock preattached and made of copper !~
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to have to agree with this post 100%%. I don't have 780's but my r9 290x's generate enormous amounts of heat.
> 
> I had three of them on my brother's rig once and it sounded like we were in a wind tunnel.
> 
> Anyone that can afford triple video cards can afford some waterblocks. *flame suit on*
Click to expand...

imo anyone that can afford that kinda gpu power ( or even this board and cpu ) needs to have a caselabs, no excuses at these price points. and you will thanks me later !~ ( mega flame suit on )


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> *What's frustrating is that the fan never goes over 50%...yet if I manually set fan speed, the cooler is more than enough. 100%, I get no throttle. These cards just have crappy fan control, IMHO*. I don't care about the noise.. clearly the cooling is needed...
> 
> I'm kind of tempted to sell these three cards and get a couple of K1ngp1n cards. I think this board deserves it.
> Yep. Nice case, really, for the money.


this could be adjusted in the bios certainly, and maybe even a custom fan curve in precisionX (or AB) would be sufficient.


... NVM, get a water loop!!









http://www.overclock.net/t/481420/your-computer-has-too-much-air-flow-when/2540_20#post_22137935


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> I'm going to have to agree with this post 100%%. I don't have 780's but my r9 290x's generate enormous amounts of heat.
> 
> I had three of them on my brother's rig once and it sounded like we were in a wind tunnel.
> 
> Anyone that can afford triple video cards can afford some waterblocks. *flame suit on*


It's not a matter of affording it. It's a matter of getting EXACTLY what I want. As to the noise, I have some nice Sennheiser headphones that make that a non-issue, and I also have 4 kids between the ages of 6 and 12... so noise, really, isn't a problem in my house.







I do also have a fairly "high-end" audio setup that I can crank up and drown out everything else, if need be, and my neighbor is awesome (I live in a house with a double-lot and an apartment on the double-yard side)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo anyone that can afford that kinda gpu power ( or even this board and cpu ) needs to have a caselabs, no excuses at these price points. and you will thanks me later !~ ( mega flame suit on )


I don't like caselabs cases. Like no offense, but I feel they are way overpriced. They are well made, and very functional, for sure, but for what they cost, I expect more, personally. Not that I think the cost is unjustified...they aren't a huge case retailer, so of course they have to charge a bit more.

I've run multi-GPU high-end cards for the last 10 years. I've spent a TONNE of money on cases over the years. What I really want to do is use Swifftech's new stuff, but it's not out yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> this could be adjusted in the bios certainly, and maybe even a custom fan curve in precisionX (or AB) would be sufficient.
> 
> ... NVM, get a water loop!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/481420/your-computer-has-too-much-air-flow-when/2540_20#post_22137935


I hate having to run added software to control fan speeds. I know it's possible, and yes, I can do it easily. But I feel that the cards should already do it. I mean..I disconnected all airflow into the case, made the cards heat up more...all they did was throttle more.. rather than increasing the fan speed over 50%...









So I gotta wait for what I really want, which is cooling not yet on the market...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's not a matter of affording it. It's a matter of getting EXACTLY what I want. As to the noise, I have some nice Sennheiser headphones that make that a non-issue, and I also have 4 kids between the ages of 6 and 12... so noise, really, isn't a problem in my house.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do also have a fairly "high-end" audio setup that I can crank up and drown out everything else, if need be, and my neighbor is awesome (I live in a house with a double-lot and an apartment on the double-yard side)
> I don't like caselabs cases. Like no offense, but I feel they are way overpriced. They are well made, and very functional, for sure, but for what they cost, I expect more, personally. Not that I think the cost is unjustified...they aren't a huge case retailer, so of course they have to charge a bit more.
> I've run multi-GPU high-end cards for the last 10 years. I've spent a TONNE of money on cases over the years. What I really want to do is use Swifftech's new stuff, but it's not out yet.
> I hate having to run added software to control fan speeds. I know it's possible, and yes, I can do it easily. But I feel that the cards should already do it. I mean..I disconnected all airflow into the case, made the cards heat up more...all they did was throttle more.. rather than increasing the fan speed over 50%...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I gotta wait for what I really want, which is cooling not yet on the market...


should not top out at 50%? Which vga bios are you using?


save it from gpuZ and pop it over (change .rom to .txt)

dif topic:

Do most of you set msconfig to load windows with all cores/threads or have simply left that at the windows default (1 thread)?


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I've run multi-GPU high-end cards for the last 10 years. I've spent a TONNE of money on cases over the years. What I really want to do is use Swifftech's new stuff, but it's not out yet.
> I hate having to run added software to control fan speeds. I know it's possible, and yes, I can do it easily. But I feel that the cards should already do it. I mean..I disconnected all airflow into the case, made the cards heat up more...*all they did was throttle more.. rather than increasing the fan speed over 50%*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I gotta wait for what I really want, which is cooling not yet on the market...


This is what I just don't understand!


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Do most of you set msconfig to load windows with all cores/threads or have simply left that at the windows default (1 thread)?


I have been using the Windows default.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> should not top out at 50%? Which vga bios are you using?
> 
> 
> save it from gpuZ and pop it over (change .rom to .txt)
> 
> dif topic:
> 
> Do most of you set msconfig to load windows with all cores/threads or have simply left that at the windows default (1 thread)?


I've tried a few different BIOSes so far. I have two ASUS cards, and one PNY. ASUS cards and PNY behave the same..

And yeah, I've tried all those things; nothing new for me. But also, I'm on Windows8.1, and I am unsure how much of an impact that may have on that whole thing... and I am too lazy/busy to try Win7 right now. I've already tried new OS install of 8.1 (had no choice when SSDs crapped out).

Also, I get on average about 20c higher temps than most users, no matter what card I have. Just something about my environs leads to that.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I have been using the Windows default.




type "msconfig" in the windows search menu ->Boot -> advanced Options - set number of processors to number of threads you cpu has. May load win a bit quicker.


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's not a matter of affording it. It's a matter of getting EXACTLY what I want. As to the noise, I have some nice Sennheiser headphones that make that a non-issue


I had to smile when I read this. I also have a nice pair of Sennheisers that work quite well at drowning out noise. At work they pull double-duty as a wonderful, non-confrontational way to say "I'm busy - move along please"


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> cadaveca posted some on page 300 of this thread I believe. Here you go...http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/2990
> 
> Jpmboy attached some bios screen shots a page back.


I read the last page and I did not know for this setting "Additional Turbo voltage"

with this setting (The rest in Auto)

Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. .........Offset Mode
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;....&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230; + 0.05
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Additional Turbo voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.020

And no boot, not even access to bios

thanks


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> I read the last page and I did not know for this setting "Additional Turbo voltage"
> 
> with this setting (The rest in Auto)
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. .........Offset Mode
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;....&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230; + 0.05
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Additional Turbo voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.020
> 
> And no boot, not even access to bios
> 
> thanks


What multiplier? What is LLC set to?


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo anyone that can afford that kinda gpu power ( or even this board and cpu ) needs to have a caselabs, no excuses at these price points. and you will thanks me later !~ ( mega flame suit on )


I have a Caselabs TH10 case. I felt I overpaid for it though. I could have spent the funds elsewhere.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo anyone that can afford that kinda gpu power ( or even this board and cpu ) needs to have a caselabs, no excuses at these price points. and you will thanks me later !~ ( mega flame suit on )
> 
> 
> 
> I don't like caselabs cases. Like no offense, but I feel they are way overpriced. They are well made, and very functional, for sure, but for what they cost, I expect more, personally. Not that I think the cost is unjustified...they aren't a huge case retailer, so of course they have to charge a bit more.
Click to expand...

i understand and you are welcome to your opinion no matter how wrong it is !~




























just in case it didnt come through this is sarcasm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I've run multi-GPU high-end cards for the last 10 years. I've spent a TONNE of money on cases over the years. What I really want to do is use Swifftech's new stuff, but it's not out yet.
> 
> So I gotta wait for what I really want, which is cooling not yet on the market...


also i 100% understand that is my one complaint with swiftech....... they take too darn long to release stuffs. i also have been waiting for their 290x komodos !~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I hate having to run added software to control fan speeds. I know it's possible, and yes, I can do it easily. But I feel that the cards should already do it. I mean..I disconnected all airflow into the case, made the cards heat up more...all they did was throttle more.. rather than increasing the fan speed over 50%...


thats the nvidia mindset for you. "we do it our way.... deal with it, or leave "

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's not a matter of affording it. It's a matter of getting EXACTLY what I want. As to the noise, I have some nice Sennheiser headphones that make that a non-issue
> 
> 
> 
> I had to smile when I read this. I also have a nice pair of Sennheisers that work quite well at drowning out noise. At work they pull double-duty as a wonderful, non-confrontational way to say "I'm busy - move along please"
Click to expand...

love the avatar !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo anyone that can afford that kinda gpu power ( or even this board and cpu ) needs to have a caselabs, no excuses at these price points. and you will thanks me later !~ ( mega flame suit on )
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Caselabs TH10 case. I felt I overpaid for it though. I could have spent the funds elsewhere.
Click to expand...

how so? ( seriously ) i have both a th10 and m8 and will be buying a tx10-d and i think they are an amazing value esp when compared to anything near competitive i would love to see some short comings, but tbh i dont see any


----------



## NEOAethyr

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOTE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My advice in this post is only for those with 125mhz strap or higher, not for those using 100mhz strap.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> I read the last page and I did not know for this setting "Additional Turbo voltage"
> 
> with this setting (The rest in Auto)
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. .........Offset Mode
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;....&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230; + 0.05
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Additional Turbo voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.020
> 
> And no boot, not even access to bios
> 
> thanks


Are you using a 125mhz strap?
If so go back a few pages and read my post (pg. 732).

When Jpmboy talked about hitting the red, normally that would be correct, but in the case of 125mhz strap it's not quite right







.

Pretty sure you need to start with a +0.2v offset (99% sure this is right but it's been a while so start with +0.1v 1st).
Sounds like alot I know.

You can try a manual voltage 1st and see if that boots.
Try 1.2v manual.

If that works, figure out the offset, manual voltage will get it stuck at 1.2v (no idle), so when you try for an offset you won't wanna reach the same level in the bios readings.
If you got an offset reading 1.2v in the bios then you're in trouble when you goto windows...

Anyways start with an offset of +0.1v, sounds like a alot but if your on a 125mhz strap it's not.
Double check the bios reading before booting windows to make sure it looks halfway normal.
Boot windows if you can, check cpu-z with some load like aida64's benchmark (not a huge load







).
See if it reaches about 1.216v on the vcore, that's pretty much stock voltage readings right there.
Hit me back if this works out for ya







.

You could also use hwmonitor32, but I recommend cpu-z, because I know that 1.216v on that is ruffly stock (-0.005v offset at stock strap).

Oh and start with a cpu multi you think is stable at stock voltages and verify it before moving on up.

...
I made a post on the asus forums for someone asking for help with vcore.
I recommend lynx, there's no real difference between it and ibt but I like lynx better.
It'll get you close enough to stable voltages, but it won't get you to the very edge.
It's probably good for 0.025v or something like that.
Getting closer then that (again I'm not sure exactly where the cut off is), requires running over 5hrs of y-cruncher (6hrs min, I always run 8).
Lynx will get you just a few steps away from getting the perfect vcore.
At the programs stock settings, just run it, 15mins later you're done.
There isn't anything quicker then that, I've checked.

I checked mine at 4.5ghz.
Because my cpu is SOOO close to getting stable at stock voltages at that speed.
So most programs can't detect errors at all.
I ran over 12hrs of lynx as well as ibt separately (manually set to it's max mem values), not a single program other then y-cruncher was able to show me errors.
And even y-cruncher took hours to do so.

Oh I forgot, I did not check prime though.
I haven't got around to it yet.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> 
> type "msconfig" in the windows search menu ->Boot -> advanced Options - set number of processors to number of threads you cpu has. May load win a bit quicker.


Thanks, I'll give it a shot when I get home!


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i understand and you are welcome to your opinion no matter how wrong it is !~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just in case it didnt come through this is sarcasm
> also i 100% understand that is my one complaint with swiftech....... they take too darn long to release stuffs. i also have been waiting for their 290x komodos !~
> thats the nvidia mindset for you. "we do it our way.... deal with it, or leave "
> love the avatar !~
> how so? ( seriously ) i have both a th10 and m8 and will be buying a tx10-d and i think they are an amazing value esp when compared to anything near competitive i would love to see some short comings, but tbh i dont see any


Don't get me wrong, the builds of these cases are amazing. I just don't like the price but with a lot of things, you get what you pay for.


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> love the avatar !~


I was just thinking to myself that you have absolutely impeccable taste in avatars


----------



## NEOAethyr

I like my blackhawk ultra case lol







.

It's not perfect, but it's good enough.
You're not gonna get much better unless you buy one of those extremely expensive giant cube cases from somewhere.

I'de like to get a 9x120 rad or 2 (not right this sec though), not sure if it'll fit on the side though.
I kinda want it externally anyways, I had some ideas with that.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> again - try offset @ 0.005V and additional turbo @ 0.05V +/- what's needed to hold the frequency. *what was the cpuZ vcore reading during R15*?? is that with unsynched cores? and was the max T on one or 2 cores only?
> r15 score is a reasonable assessment of your cpu productivity (little effect by mem freq). a 4.6GHz 4930K should be over 1200... and closer to 1250 (... with cores synched). you just need to tune things up a bit. gotta have patience when tuning an overclock.


Here is what I came up with: (4.5GHz 0.005 Offset Vcore 0.020 Turbo 2400MHz 70ºC)
Seems stable, ran Cinebench no probs but it's too Hot!
My previous Fixed OC was maxing 60ºC on air. With these settings I'm reaching 70ºC.
▼ Please take a look at my settings and correct me ▼


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
(Timings for 2400MHz 10-12-12-31-2 Everything else on Auto)
CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100.000
CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. DDR3-2400MHz
Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Enabled
EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Auto
Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Mode 3
Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Nearer
Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
BLCK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.005
VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. Auto (Currently 1.24+)
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto (Currently 1.05+)
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Manual
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 0.995
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.650
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.650
CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Disabled
BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled

CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium
CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto

Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.020
CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled

CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled


Shouldn't my VTT CPU Voltage be under 1.15V?
It won't boot at anything lower then 1.24V. How can I lower my VTT ???


----------



## JLMS2010

Turn CPU LLC on High
Try DDR3-2133

See if it boots


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Turn CPU LLC on High
> Try DDR3-2133
> 
> See if it boots


Yes with LLC on high it boots just fine But Medium is better because I get a max of 1.34V Vcore whereas on high I get 1.36V.
My worries are the temps. How can I lower the VTT ???


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Yes with LLC on high it boots just fine But Medium is better because I get a max of 1.34V Vcore whereas on high I get 1.36V.
> My worries are the temps. How can I lower the VTT ???


Set it manually. Try 1.05 for VTT. VTT shouldn't have much, if any affect on temps. Maybe somebody else can confirm this.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> What multiplier? What is LLC set to?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOTE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> My advice in this post is only for those with 125mhz strap or higher, not for those using 100mhz strap.
> Are you using a 125mhz strap?
> If so go back a few pages and read my post (pg. 732).
> 
> When Jpmboy talked about hitting the red, normally that would be correct, but in the case of 125mhz strap it's not quite right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Pretty sure you need to start with a +0.2v offset (99% sure this is right but it's been a while so start with +0.1v 1st).
> Sounds like alot I know.
> 
> You can try a manual voltage 1st and see if that boots.
> Try 1.2v manual.
> 
> If that works, figure out the offset, manual voltage will get it stuck at 1.2v (no idle), so when you try for an offset you won't wanna reach the same level in the bios readings.
> If you got an offset reading 1.2v in the bios then you're in trouble when you goto windows...
> 
> Anyways start with an offset of +0.1v, sounds like a alot but if your on a 125mhz strap it's not.
> Double check the bios reading before booting windows to make sure it looks halfway normal.
> Boot windows if you can, check cpu-z with some load like aida64's benchmark (not a huge load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> See if it reaches about 1.216v on the vcore, that's pretty much stock voltage readings right there.
> Hit me back if this works out for ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> You could also use hwmonitor32, but I recommend cpu-z, because I know that 1.216v on that is ruffly stock (-0.005v offset at stock strap).
> 
> Oh and start with a cpu multi you think is stable at stock voltages and verify it before moving on up.
> 
> ...
> I made a post on the asus forums for someone asking for help with vcore.
> I recommend lynx, there's no real difference between it and ibt but I like lynx better.
> It'll get you close enough to stable voltages, but it won't get you to the very edge.
> It's probably good for 0.025v or something like that.
> Getting closer then that (again I'm not sure exactly where the cut off is), requires running over 5hrs of y-cruncher (6hrs min, I always run 8).
> Lynx will get you just a few steps away from getting the perfect vcore.
> At the programs stock settings, just run it, 15mins later you're done.
> There isn't anything quicker then that, I've checked.
> 
> I checked mine at 4.5ghz.
> Because my cpu is SOOO close to getting stable at stock voltages at that speed.
> So most programs can't detect errors at all.
> I ran over 12hrs of lynx as well as ibt separately (manually set to it's max mem values), not a single program other then y-cruncher was able to show me errors.
> And even y-cruncher took hours to do so.
> 
> Oh I forgot, I did not check prime though.
> I haven't got around to it yet.


Indicated above









36x125

So I tested a positive offset to 0.16, but I have a nice BSOD,
More, the 0.16 is in purple (or red, I believe) in the bios
And in the bios, it indicates 1.16v for vcore...

I tested from +0.005 to +0.030, no boot
With 0.040 (1.040v in the bios), BSOD for Windows
With 0.050 (1.056v in the bios), BSOD for Windows

Thanks


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Indicated above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 36x125
> 
> So I tested a positive offset to 0.16, but I have a nice BSOD,
> More, the 0.16 is in purple (or red, I believe) in the bios
> And in the bios, it indicates 1.16v for vcore...
> 
> I tested from +0.005 to +0.030, no boot
> With 0.040 (1.040v in the bios), BSOD for Windows
> With 0.050 (1.056v in the bios), BSOD for Windows
> 
> Thanks


Is this offset voltage or additional turbo voltage?
1.056 + .050 = 1.1v. Need more additional turbo voltage. If I'm understanding you correctly.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Well.. Here is what I came up with: (4.5GHz 0.005 Offset Vcore 0.020 Turbo 2400MHz 70ºC) Too Hot! My previous Fixed OC was maxing 60ºC. Yes, I'm on air.
> ▼ Please take a look at my settings and correct me ▼
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> (Timings for 2400MHz 10-12-12-31-2 Everything else on Auto)
> CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100.000
> CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto 100
> ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. DDR3-2400MHz
> Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Enabled Disabled
> EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled disabled
> EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Auto
> Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Mode 3
> Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Nearer Auto
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> BLCK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.005
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. Auto (Currently 1.24+) like I said, 2400 ram makes this go high. set to like 1.13V
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto (Currently 1.05+)
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Manual
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 0.995
> DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.650
> DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.650
> CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
> PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto EWnabled
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto *MUST BE DISABLED*
> PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto *MUST BE DISABLED*
> BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> 
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium
> CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
> Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled DISABLED
> Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
> VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
> CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100% 110% or 120%
> DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
> DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100% 110% or 120% (for 2400 ram)
> DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
> PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> 
> Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.020
> CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
> Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled
> 
> CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled
> 
> 
> Shouldn't my VTT CPU Voltage be under 1.15V? It won't boot at anything lower then 1.24V. Should I be worried?


all the items i pointed out in your settings were set differently than the bios dumps I posted. you need to disable spreadspectrum.

You should first work on getting a stable CPU with Offset, then take the ram up to 2400. BTW - 16GB? how much ram are you using?


----------



## Jpmboy

guyys - start with this:

reset bios (clrcmos), post
set your boot priorities (disks)
set your ram timings and VDram voltage manually @ kit specs.(no XMP)
sleep states disabled (or auto)
cpu and pcie spreadspectrum disabled (change nothing else)
Now increase multiplier one step at a time until it will post but fails to load windows - this is your base for adding offset and turbo mV (will be like 40-44x for Ivy-E, SB-E and Sandy)

Turbo Auto -> Enabled (you should see "additional Turbo Voltage as a menu option). Some folks leave this on Auto, but then you loose control of the vcore ceiling
CPU LLC -> High (or medium depending on multiplier)
Manual mode OC
bclk = 100
strap = 100
Multiplier to "last value +1" that can post
Vcore to "Offset" and set +5 to +10mV (+0.005V)
Set Add Turbo to +10mV
post (but don't boot to windows yet)
Write down all the applied voltages (vtt and vsa also)
Boot to windows. If it fails, keep adding turbo until it boots to Win.
Run your preferred stability "regimen" add mV to turbo (or offset) as needed to reach your stability needs.


----------



## Zimzoid

Looks like my replacement cpu is a bad one oc 4100mhz @ 1.328v I lost the lottery...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Indicated above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 36x125
> 
> So I tested a positive offset to 0.16, but I have a nice BSOD,
> More, the 0.16 is in purple (or red, I believe) in the bios
> *And in the bios, it indicates 1.16v for vcore...
> *
> I tested from +0.005 to +0.030, no boot
> With 0.040 (1.040v in the bios), BSOD for Windows
> With 0.050 (1.056v in the bios), BSOD for Windows
> Thanks


with offset, since bios does not load the cpu, it will NOT SHOW YOUR LOAD VCORE.

what bsod did you get?


----------



## tistou77

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Is this offset voltage or additional turbo voltage?
> 1.056 + .050 = 1.1v. Need more additional turbo voltage. If I'm understanding you correctly.


It's Offest Voltage









I tested several things (35x125)

Offset 0.005 to 0.10 => No boot
Offest 0.10 to 0.18 => BSOD

Offset 0.005 to 0.10 + additional turbo voltage 0.10 to 0.35 => No boot
Offest 0.10 to 0.18 + additional turbo voltage 0.10 to 0.35 => BSOD

Offest 0.20 (1.20V in the BIOS and Windows) => Windows ok but the idle vcore is 1.20V

For BSOD, I had several 7E, 9C, 50, etc... (I think but I reminds me more)

I will test with a CMOS
It's more complicated than Normal Mode.....


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> all the items i pointed out in your settings were set differently than the bios dumps I posted. you need to disable spreadspectrum.
> You should first work on getting a stable CPU with Offset, then take the ram up to 2400. BTW - 16GB? how much ram are you using?


Yep, no problem. I did what you've recommended.
Disabled SpreadSpectrums and managed to boot into windows and pass Cinebench.
Currently 4.5GHz, 0.005 Offset, 0.020 Turbo, 2400MHz RAM, 70ºC. load.
I'm using 32 GB of RAM and I'm on air.
My concern is the VTT. It's in Auto and it shows 1.24V. How can I lower my VTT ???


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
(Timings for 2400MHz 10-12-12-31-2)
CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100.000
CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. DDR3-2400MHz
Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Enabled
EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Auto
Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Mode 3
Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
BLCK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.005
VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. Auto (Currently 1.24+)
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto (Currently 1.05+)
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Manual
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 0.995
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.650
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.650
CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Disabled
BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled

CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium
CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto

Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.020
CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled

CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Looks like my replacement cpu is a bad one oc 4100mhz @ 1.328v I lost the lottery...


That's a CPU that needs independent multipler settings.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Yep, no problem. I did what you've recommended.
> Disabled SpreadSpectrums and managed to boot into windows and pass Cinebench.
> Currently 4.5GHz, 0.005 Offset, 0.020 Turbo, 2400MHz RAM, 70ºC. load.
> *I'm using 32 GB of RAM and I'm on air.
> My concern is the VTT. It's in Auto and it shows 1.24V*. How can I lower my VTT ???
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> (Timings for 2400MHz 10-12-12-31-2)
> CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100.000
> CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Per Core
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 44
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. DDR3-2400MHz
> Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Enabled
> EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Auto
> Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Mode 3
> Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> BLCK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.005
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. Auto (Currently 1.24+)
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto (Currently 1.05+)
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Manual
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 0.995
> DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.650
> DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.650
> CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
> PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
> PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Disabled
> BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> 
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium
> CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
> Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
> Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
> VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
> CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
> DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
> DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
> DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
> PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> 
> Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.020
> CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
> Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled
> 
> CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled


32G of ram at 2400 can be a challenge. since this is your first OC with th erig, I suggest you back off on the ram frequency or drop to 16GB.

working on getting this 295x2 to recognize my 4K monitor. ugh. AMD drivers!!!


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 32G of ram at 2400 can be a challenge. since this is your first OC with th erig, I suggest you back off on the ram frequency or drop to 16GB.


I seem to be doing fine with 32GB at 2400MHz.
When I'm on load my second core reads 73ºC. Is that too much? Will I see degradation or should I back off a bit?


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> working on getting this 295x2 to recognize my 4K monitor. ugh. AMD drivers!!!


"What's defined as high-definition video today-1920x1080 pixels with a refresh rate of 60Hz-requires bandwidth of 3.5 gigabits per second.
Move up to 4K video-3840x2160 pixels-and you need 14Gbps of bandwidth to support a 60Hz refresh rate."


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 32G of ram at 2400 can be a challenge. since this is your first OC with th erig, I suggest you back off on the ram frequency or drop to 16GB.
> 
> working on getting this 295x2 to recognize my 4K monitor. ugh. AMD drivers!!!


4k... Nice








I remember when I 1st heard of 4k, there were only a few projectors that supported it, and they were over $20k.
Now 4k is getting affordable







.

I'm waiting on a higher refresh rate, however, if someone says they can get there's running at 72hz or so I may get jealous







.
I got a 144hz monitor I run @ 120hz with lightboost forced on.
I still a see a bunch of ghosting when scrolling though even when overdrive disable via service mode







.
I mean lightboost works, but not perfectly.


----------



## qcktthfm1

Sorry for my noob question.
I'm happy my tweaks in BIOS now.
Is there a way I could backup my current BIOS, in case something wrong?
Thank you in advance.

update: Thank you very much erayser +rep


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qcktthfm1*
> 
> Sorry for my noob question.
> I'm happy my tweaks in BIOS now.
> Is there a way I could backup my current BIOS, in case something wrong?
> Thank you in advance.


Tool\ASUS Overclocking Profile


----------



## XViper2

I guess add me to the list.

Photos as promised. I was able to get it stable with a 0.01 offset and a .032 turbo offset. It seems stable. I haven't run cinebench yet so I hope it'll just work.

Nope spoke too soon. It BSOD'ed when trying to download a file. I'm adjusting the offset to .015 . Should I adjust this to fix? It boots into Windows fine.

OK, I followed JPMboy and I set it to .01 offset but I'm giving it a 0.06 turbo offset but it still crashes in cinebench. Did I miss something?

I have 2 RX480 radiators to cool my triple R9 290x's. All XSPC gear. The only watercooling part that isn't XSPC is the dual D5 pumps and the Bitspower dual D5 mount (gotta have one in case one fails... lol). I also have that Danger Den res that isn't made anymore.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess add me to the list.
> 
> Photos as promised. I was able to get it stable with a 0.01 offset and a .032 turbo offset. It seems stable. I haven't run cinebench yet so I hope it'll just work.
> 
> Nope spoke too soon. It BSOD'ed when trying to download a file. I'm adjusting the offset to .015 . Should I adjust this to fix? It boots into Windows fine.
> 
> OK, I followed JPMboy and I set it to .01 offset but I'm giving it a 0.06 turbo offset but it still crashes in cinebench. Did I miss something?
> 
> I have 2 RX480 radiators to cool my triple R9 290x's. All XSPC gear. The only watercooling part that isn't XSPC is the dual D5 pumps and the Bitspower dual D5 mount (gotta have one in case one fails... lol). I also have that Danger Den res that isn't made anymore.


Please put a usb key in any port, post to bios and hit F12 on the settings screens. scroll where needed, then post them here (put in a new folder and zip the folder, or use the "spoiler" gizmo... so we can see all your settings. Something is not set properly.


----------



## XViper2

Ok this is odd. I had to change LLC to very high and it worked. Voltage is still higher and I had to use 0.06 for turbo offset. Temps highest in Cinebench is 65c. I shouldn't have to use LLC at very high right?

Cinebench tested at 1227.

I'll post the zip anyway. I hope I can figure this out.


----------



## XViper2

Settings attached.

Settings.zip 1036k .zip file


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Settings attached.
> 
> Settings.zip 1036k .zip file


VCCSA at 1.0v looks a bit low for 4.6GHz. What is the bios using if you leave it on AUTO? Then you can undervolt from there a little.(I'm at 1.13v)
Also the Vcore offset can be adjusted. I have mine at 0.030 for 4.6GHz...


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> VCCSA at 1.0v looks a bit low for 4.6GHz. What is the bios using if you leave it on AUTO? Then you can undervolt from there a little.(I'm at 1.13v)
> Also the Vcore offset can be adjusted. I have mine at 0.030 for 4.6GHz...


Using the latest bios. LLC at Ultra high works though.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Using the latest bios. LLC at Ultra high works though.


ok, if it works.

btw, nice setup. I have the same XSPC Waterblock on my 2 780 ti. Hope you didn't forget to put some 0.5mm thermalpad on these 2 R33 cap. I trimmed the provided one on mine to get contact with the water block. It's kind of missing from the worn out instruction printout that came with my blocks.


----------



## Errorist66

I'm talking about this post in the 780/780ti club. In case you missed it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccamRazor*
> 
> 
> 
> Dont forget the [R33] inductors (in the yellow area) as they are not stated in EK pdf to cover with thermal pads!
> 
> 
> 
> So THIS wont happen! (there is always a chance for something to go wrong but we have to take precautions to diminish those odds right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> Cover this area (+- 1,5mm thermal pads) on the back of the PCB as its opposite to the VRM modules and will optimize heat transfer to the backplate (you wont see much difference but its better than nothing IMO)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the machinegun answers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take care
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Ed
> 
> (Team skyn3t)


----------



## erayser

I've been using Cinebench R11.5 for a while... I'm a little late on R15. Is 1182 cb okay at 4.5Ghz?

It seems like a lot of people are using offset now... I've been using offset for a while... and all this talk is making me second guess my settings that I've been using for a few months now... LOL... It's been solid for me at my current settings... so I'm not touching if it's not broken. It's been so long... I had to take a look at my settings again. At 100% load I'm at 4.5Ghz @ 1.296v with + Offset at 0.005v and LLC High. Manual VTT 1.05 and VCCSA 1. At Idle... low 1200 MHz vcore 0.864v.


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> ok, if it works.
> 
> btw, nice setup. I have the same XSPC Waterblock on my 2 780 ti. Hope you didn't forget to put some 0.5mm thermalpad on these 2 R33 cap. I trimmed the provided one on mine to get contact with the water block. It's kind of missing from the worn out instruction printout that came with my blocks.


I think I saw those caps on my R9 290x. I have R9's instead of 780's. I used Fujipoly thermal pads on the VRMs

Also i backed down the voltage on the turbo while keeping the ultra high LLC. It passed stability check. Still tested about 1200 on Cinebench R15. Turbo voltage at 0.05. It didn't crash overnight and it's still running strong.

Any adverse effects with running it on ultra high LLC? Putting LLC to high never worked with any voltage. It would crash in Cinebench almost immediately.


----------



## chino1974

Guys I have a question. I have a RIVE mobo block set that I bought and polished 2 days nefore getting the Black Edition board. I know the lower block is different. My question is would the vrm block work from the RIVE on a RIV BE?


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I've been using Cinebench R11.5 for a while... I'm a little late on R15. Is 1182 cb okay at 4.5Ghz?


You should be over 1200...try it using Real Time priority..


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Settings attached.
> 
> Settings.zip 1036k .zip file


1. extreme tweak - disabled (4.6 is not extreme)
2. CPU and PCIE spreadspectrum - Disabled (I assume you are not in an office with 30 PCs and worried about Rf interference...







)
3. lower offset to 0.005V and raise turbo by 20-24mV, set LLC to High (v high to high is ~ 12-16 mV vdroop at load)


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> false
> It's Offest Voltage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tested several things (35x125)
> 
> Offset 0.005 to 0.10 => No boot
> Offest 0.10 to 0.18 => BSOD
> 
> Offset 0.005 to 0.10 + additional turbo voltage 0.10 to 0.35 => No boot
> Offest 0.10 to 0.18 + additional turbo voltage 0.10 to 0.35 => BSOD
> 
> Offest 0.20 (1.20V in the BIOS and Windows) => Windows ok but the idle vcore is 1.20V
> 
> For BSOD, I had several 7E, 9C, 50, etc... (I think but I reminds me more)
> 
> I will test with a CMOS
> It's more complicated than Normal Mode.....


I suggest you first get Offset to work with strap = 100. Then move on to offset with strap. Any specific reason you need 125? are you using 2666 Ram? If not, try bclk=100, strap=100


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 1. extreme tweak - disabled (4.6 is not extreme)
> 2. CPU and PCIE spreadspectrum - Disabled (I assume you are not in an office with 30 PCs and worried about Rf interference...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 3. lower offset to 0.005V and raise turbo by 20-24mV, set LLC to High (v high to high is ~ 12-16 mV vdroop at load)


Turbo's already at 0.06 already. Another 20mV is going to have it sit around 0.08 right? I'm just making sure I don't blow my system up.


----------



## JLMS2010

What is your load vcore?

Mine is...
Offset .05
Turbo .052
LLC Medium
My load vcore is 1.295 @ 4.5GHz


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> What is your load vcore?
> 
> Mine is...
> Offset .05
> Turbo .052
> LLC high
> My load vcore is 1.295 @ 4.5GHz


That's good!
I have a load of 1.34Vcore @ 4.5GHz
Yes, Synced cores will get you a better score on Cinebench.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I have a question. I have a RIVE mobo block set that I bought and polished 2 days nefore getting the Black Edition board. I know the lower block is different. My question is would the vrm block work from the RIVE on a RIV BE?


I believe the MOSFET block can be made to work if you stack thermal pads. The screw holes are the same, but the R4BE has a lip on it.


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> What is your load vcore?
> 
> Mine is...
> Offset .05
> Turbo .052
> LLC high
> My load vcore is 1.295 @ 4.5GHz


Offset .005
Turbo .052
LLC ultra high
Load vcore is 1.305 @ 4.6GHz

I tried turbo to 0.06 with LLC on high and it still crashes in Cinebench. It's stable with ultra high though but thermals are hotter for sure.

I can lower the turbo further down as long as I have LLC on ultra high. I don't know if there is any adverse effects with running it on ultra high.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Offset .005
> Turbo .052
> LLC ultra high
> Load vcore is 1.305 @ 4.6GHz
> 
> I tried turbo to 0.06 with LLC on high and it still crashes in Cinebench. It's stable with ultra high though but thermals are hotter for sure.
> 
> I can lower the turbo further down as long as I have LLC on ultra high. I don't know if there is any adverse effects with running it on ultra high.


Drop it to 4.5GHz and see..

My turbo was .066 @ 4.6 with a load of 1.328v. The extra 100MHz didn't really do much for everyday use. haha I'm still trying to lower the 1.296 @ 4.5 as well.


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Drop it to 4.5GHz and see..
> 
> My turbo was .066 @ 4.6 with a load of 1.328v. The extra 100MHz didn't really do much for everyday use. haha I'm still trying to lower the 1.296 @ 4.5 as well.


Was your offset 0.05 for this? I might decrease it to 4.5Ghz tonight as long as it can keep LLC at high instead of ultra high.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> You should be over 1200...try it using Real Time priority..


Sorry for my dumb question... how do I use Real Time priority? After rebooting... and with minimum processes running in the background, I am at around 1207 cb this morning.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Was your offset 0.05 for this? I might decrease it to 4.5Ghz tonight as long as it can keep LLC at high instead of ultra high.


Yeah it was .005, actually no, I think it was .010 and turbo was .066.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Turbo's already at 0.06 already. Another 20mV is going to have it sit around 0.08 right? I'm just making sure I don't blow my system up.


LOWER LLC to high (-12-16mv at load vs UltraHigh) and set Offset to 5mv, not 10mv. It won't blow up. and yes, 5mV offset, 60-80mV turbo, LLC high


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Offset .005
> Turbo .052
> LLC ultra high
> Load vcore is 1.305 @ 4.6GHz
> 
> I tried turbo to 0.06 with LLC on high and it still crashes in Cinebench. It's stable with ultra high though but thermals are hotter for sure.
> 
> I can lower the turbo further down as long as I have LLC on ultra high. *I don't know if there is any adverse effects with running it on ultra high*.


as posted earlier, LLC attenuates vdroop. vdroop is engineered in to the chip to compensate for the transient voltage spikes that occur during load transitions. When ever you can lower LLC you should... even if it results in a slightly higher vcore at light loads. We focus too much on voltage while it's current that kills. at 4.8 and above you probably need LLC Ultra High. Below, I doubt it is required for stability.

Note, it may appear that your vcore "floats" more with low LLC when at load, and a high LLC seems to make it more steady... in the chip things are happening much faster than the OS can monitor.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> as posted earlier, LLC attenuates vdroop. vdroop is engineered in to the chip to compensate for the transient voltage spikes that occur during load transitions. Where ever you can lower LLC you should... even if it results in a slightly higher vcore at light loads. We focus too much on voltage while it's current that kills. at 4.8 and above you probably need LLC Ultra High. Below, I doubt it is required for stability.
> 
> Note, it may appear that your vcore "floats" more with low LLC when at load, and a high LLC seems to make it more steady... in the chip things are happening much faster than the OS can monitor.


Hey *@Jpmboy* What are your CPU temps under load? What is the max for your setup?


----------



## chino1974

Guys I have another question. Which would work best with the Rampage Black and a 3930k? A EK Supremacy non-csq full nickel block or a Koolance 380i ? I have both at home and have been using the EK for a while. I really like it but someone was telling me that supposedly the 380i is a better performer than the Supremacy. Not sure how true this is so I'm asking here. Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> as posted earlier, LLC attenuates vdroop. vdroop is engineered in to the chip to compensate for the transient voltage spikes that occur during load transitions. Where ever you can lower LLC you should... even if it results in a slightly higher vcore at light loads. We focus too much on voltage while it's current that kills. at 4.8 and above you probably need LLC Ultra High. Below, I doubt it is required for stability.
> 
> Note, it may appear that your vcore "floats" more with low LLC when at load, and a high LLC seems to make it more steady... in the chip things are happening much faster than the OS can monitor.


Thanks! Learn something new everyday.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Hey *@Jpmboy* What are your CPU temps under load? What is the max for your setup?


at what clock speed?

4.6 maxT with p95 is ~ 57C
4.8 same is ~ 68C
water cooled.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I have another question. Which would work best with the Rampage Black and a 3930k? A EK Supremacy non-csq full nickel block or a Koolance 380i ? I have both at home and have been using the EK for a while. I really like it but someone was telling me that supposedly the 380i is a better performer than the Supremacy. Not sure how true this is so I'm asking here. Thanks in advance for any help.


the 380i is probably the best CPU block made. can't go wrong with it. mouint with a 90o rotation. worth a couple of oC on my 3930K and 4960X

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> at what clock speed?
> 
> 4.6 maxT with p95 is ~ 57C
> 4.8 same is ~ 68C
> water cooled.


Wow nice. I would love to get it running at 57c. More tuning is necessary.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Wow nice. I would love to get it running at 57c. More tuning is necessary.


what TIM and waterblock are you using?


----------



## Ajay57

I just wanted to post this for the hard working members as way to cool down you VRM Section on your Motherboard as well as for your GPU's!!

As i saw Cav's post about his 3 Way SLI running HOT!! Been looking at this for myself to do here, but we do not have this in the UK!









1, http://www.overclock.net/t/1468593/r9-290-x-thermal-pad-upgrade-vrm-temperatures

2, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17504/thr-185/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_Mosfet_Block_-_100_x_15_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1797#blank

3, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17500/thr-182/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_60_x_50_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1797

I hope this can help anyone who is looking to reduce the amount of heat as this materiel is really great for doing that kind of job!
















"Sorry if its off topic"

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> what TIM and waterblock are you using?


XSPC Raystorm and Gelid TIM.


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I just wanted to post this for the hard working members as way to cool down you VRM Section on your Motherboard as well as for your GPU's!!
> 
> As i saw Cav's post about his 3 Way SLI running HOT!! Been looking at this for myself to do here, but we do not have this in the UK!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1, http://www.overclock.net/t/1468593/r9-290-x-thermal-pad-upgrade-vrm-temperatures
> 
> 2, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17504/thr-185/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_Mosfet_Block_-_100_x_15_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1797#blank
> 
> 3, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17500/thr-182/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_60_x_50_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1797
> 
> I hope this can help anyone who is looking to reduce the amount of heat as this materiel is really great for doing that kind of job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Sorry if its off topic"
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


I used these on all my R9's when I watercooled them. Well worth the money.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> XSPC Raystorm and Gelid TIM.


that's good stuff!


----------



## XViper2

I'm drooling over your 295x in your sig. Man that must be awesome to play games at 60fps on 4k resolution.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> that's good stuff!


Is it really that much better than AS5? I haven't used it before. The only article I found was a 1c difference with Gelid being better. I'm always open to trying new things.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Is it really that much better than AS5? I haven't used it before. The only article I found was a 1c difference with Gelid being better. I'm always open to trying new things.




gelid tops PK-1 (my fav) in some mount settings. Too bad skinny shut down his lab (personal crisis I heard),


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Is it really that much better than AS5? I haven't used it before. The only article I found was a 1c difference with Gelid being better. I'm always open to trying new things.


It is much better than AS5. I saw that it was much more better than AS5 for video cards during tests.

Try it. It is a bit harder to work with than AS5 but definitely worth it.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> I'm drooling over your 295x in your sig. Man that must be awesome to play games at 60fps on 4k resolution.


problem is I can't get it to recognize teh eied on my 4K panel (my 290x was fine, as is every NV card.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> It is much better than AS5. I saw that it was much more better than AS5 for video cards during tests.
> 
> Try it. It is a bit harder to work with than AS5 but definitely worth it.


Ordered *this*. Thanks. Why is it harder to work with?


----------



## XViper2

It has a very goopy consistency. Make sure you boil some water in a cup and throw the tube in there for a bit to soften it up. It's hard to actually explain until you see it.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> It has a very goopy consistency. Make sure you boil some water in a cup and throw the tube in there for a bit to soften it up. It's hard to actually explain until you see it.


Ok. I guess that's why they give you an applicator.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I suggest you first get Offset to work with strap = 100. Then move on to offset with strap. Any specific reason you need 125? are you using 2666 Ram? If not, try bclk=100, strap=100


Yes I have 2666 ram (see signature)

Besides, I've never understood why with the 2666 ram does not boot with BCLK to 100


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Yes I have 2666 ram (see signature)
> 
> Besides, I've never understood why with the 2666 ram does not boot with BCLK to 100


It's because the 2600 div is no good.
You have to either use 125mhz strap or clock the bclk up using 100mhz strap (using the 2400 div of course), which does actually work if your cpu and vga card is up to the task (this may be difficult using an ati card, also the crappier cpu's don't like as high as bclk as the better ones, all nvidia cards will doit though so if you have one that won't be the issue only the cpu will be the potential prob).
(It's a pcie < vga ram thing when it comes to vga cards)
But 2800mhz is a nogo at 100mhz strap it seems.

I don't even know if the cpu actually has a working 2600 div in the 1st place, pretty sure it doesn't even post if I remember right.
I've gotton 2600 stable at the 100mhz strap, upping bclk though obviously.

I would use the 125mhz strap if it idled right lol.
But I like power savings







.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> It's because the 2600 div is no good.
> You have to either use 125mhz strap or clock the bclk up using 100mhz strap (using the 2400 div of course), which does actually work if your cpu and vga card is up to the task.
> But 2800mhz is a nogo at 100mhz strap it seems.
> 
> I don't even know if the cpu actually has a working 2600 div in the 1st place, pretty sure it doesn't even post if I remember right.
> I've gotton 2600 stable at the 100mhz strap, upping bclk though obviously.
> 
> I would use the 125mhz strap if it idled right lol.
> But I like power savings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Max working divider is 2400.







2666 is 2133 x 125 BCLK.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> It's because the 2600 div is no good.
> You have to either use 125mhz strap or clock the bclk up using 100mhz strap (using the 2400 div of course), which does actually work if your cpu and vga card is up to the task (this may be difficult using an ati card, also the crappier cpu's don't like as high as bclk as the better ones, all nvidia cards will doit though so if you have one that won't be the issue only the cpu will be the potential prob).
> (It's a pcie < vga ram thing when it comes to vga cards)
> But 2800mhz is a nogo at 100mhz strap it seems.
> 
> I don't even know if the cpu actually has a working 2600 div in the 1st place, pretty sure it doesn't even post if I remember right.
> I've gotton 2600 stable at the 100mhz strap, upping bclk though obviously.
> 
> I would use the 125mhz strap if it idled right lol.
> But I like power savings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thank you for the explanation

I tested with the BCLK to 100 (45x100)
The strap is always AUTO

Offest: 0.005
Offest Turbo: 0.40 (not tested below) and it is good

I thought I would have a small drop in temperature in idle (0.8xx vcore) but it is the same (~ 1 ° C difference)
Damages whatsoever so complicated with the BCLK to 125

Thanks for your help


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Thank you for the explanation
> 
> I tested with the BCLK to 100 (45x100)
> The strap is always AUTO
> 
> Offest: 0.005
> Offest Turbo: 0.40 (not tested below) and it is good
> 
> *I thought I would have a small drop in temperature in idle (0.8xx vcore) but it is the same (~ 1 ° C difference)*
> Damages whatsoever so complicated with the BCLK to 125
> Thanks for your help


Idle temps wouldn't be very different - current makes heat, not voltage. what is your load voltage (cpuZ or DMM on the mobo)
I assume Turbo is 40mV, not 400mV
Good job


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> problem is I can't get it to recognize teh eied on my 4K panel (my 290x was fine, as is every NV card.


Hook that monitor up to a diff machine that can read the edid, then run a program called Monitor Asset Manager (entech).
Click on the file menu option and create monitor inf.

Hook the monitor back up to your 295x rig and copy that inf file you made as well, then replace the monitor driver with that inf, it'll override the edid.
Maybe it'll work







.

Edit:
Oh and you gotta reset after installing a new monitor driver, I forgot about that.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Idle temps wouldn't be very different - current makes heat, not voltage. what is your load voltage (cpuZ or DMM on the mobo)
> I assume Turbo is 40mV, not 400mV
> Good job


Yes it's 0.040








Vcore to 1.29v under AIDA64 (not tested in bench)

I came back with a BCLK of 125, but I can not seem with offest


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Yes it's 0.040
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vcore to 1.29v under AIDA64 (not tested in bench)
> 
> I came back with a BCLK of 125, *but I can not seem with offest*


Strapped Offset is tricky... I have 125 w/ offset working (x37), but not completely yet (p95 is giving me trouble - may be my memory). If I get it "stable" I will post what I find.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> Hook that monitor up to a diff machine that can read the edid, then run a program called Monitor Asset Manager (entech).
> Click on the file menu option and create monitor inf.
> Hook the monitor back up to your 295x rig and copy that inf file you made as well, then replace the monitor driver with that inf, it'll override the edid.
> Maybe it'll work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Edit:
> Oh and you gotta reset after installing a new monitor driver, I forgot about that.


yo bro! thanks for the pointer. I had the monitor hooked to my kingpins.. so if I put those back in the bench, use MAM to get the edid, would be the same - right?


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Strapped Offset is tricky... I have 125 w/ offset working, but not completely yet (p95 is giving me trouble - may be my memory). If I get it "stable" I will post what I find.


Thanks for your help


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yo bro! thanks for the pointer. I had the monitor hooked to my kingpins.. so if I put those back in the bench, use MAM to get the edid, would be the same - right?


It'll read the edid from the file, as long as the driver can parse it, it should work... (it won't need to read it from the monitor anymore, it's overridden, works with win7)
So maybe it'll work for ya.

Overriding timings was easier in xp/2k3, didn't need an edid back then.
I've been messing with monitors for a long time







.
60hz is a nogo for me lol (it will lose frames).


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 1. extreme tweak - disabled (4.6 is not extreme)
> 2. CPU and PCIE spreadspectrum - Disabled (I assume you are not in an office with 30 PCs and worried about Rf interference...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 3. lower offset to 0.005V and raise turbo by 20-24mV, set LLC to High (v high to high is ~ 12-16 mV vdroop at load)


Did exactly this. It passes Cinebench but does not pass P95.

Turbo voltage at 0.08 . It bluescreens in P95. Cores are synced to 4.6

I'm dropping it to 4.5ghz just to see if I can get it stable.

4.5 is stable 1.264v from cpu-z at load.

Temp highest is 62c. I was able to run 4.5ghz at 0.06 turbo voltage. Cores synced to 4.5

Do I drop the turbo voltage more? I think I'm going to just run it at 4.5 since it seems very stable.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> which does actually work if your cpu *and vga card is up to the task* (this may be difficult using an ati card, also the crappier cpu's don't like as high as bclk as the better ones, all nvidia cards will doit though so if you have one that won't be the issue only the cpu will be the potential prob).
> (It's a pcie < vga ram thing when it comes to vga cards)
> .


Funny you should mention this. I had been using a 103.3 bclk (x47, x48) with GTX 780Ti classifieds and 2 or 3 GTX 780Ti Kingpins and they ran/run great. Plugged in a 295x2 and it really does not l;ike that baseclock. Fine at 100. I gotta try 125 to see how it behaves.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Did exactly this. It passes Cinebench but does not pass P95.
> 
> Turbo voltage at 0.08 . It bluescreens in P95. Cores are synced to 4.6
> 
> I'm dropping it to 4.5ghz just to see if I can get it stable.
> 
> *4.5 is stable 1.264v* from cpu-z at load.
> 
> Temp highest is 62c. I was able to run 4.5ghz at 0.06 turbo voltage. Cores synced to 4.5
> 
> Do I drop the turbo voltage more? I think I'm going to just run it at 4.5 since it seems very stable.


unfortunately not every chip will do higher that 4.5 without sweating. But what was the blue screen code? or did the system bsod and immediately restart? If the later, it may be the ram is not happy and nedds a little tuning. what was the load vcore at 46 during p95, and when did it bsod? Are you using custom blend, 5 min per FFT, and 12288 ram (of 16GB)?

as you lower the multiplier, you should lower the turbo voltage, whether fixed or offset, each 100MHz cost approximately 10mV per core (60mV for a 6.. ). this holds true as a rough estimte as long as you hold other parameters constant (esp LLC).

[email protected] is very good. But that leads me to believe that CPU would do 46 or 47 well under 1.4V.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> It'll read the edid from the file, *as long as the driver can parse it*, it should work... (it won't need to read it from the monitor anymore, it's overridden, works with win7)
> So maybe it'll work for ya.
> 
> Overriding timings was easier in xp/2k3, didn't need an edid back then.
> I've been messing with monitors for a long time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 60hz is a nogo for me lol (it will lose frames).


AMD - i doubt it will parse anything


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm basically coming to terms with the fact that running tri-SLI 780 Ti requires watercooling. I really didn't want to have to go down that road...but after dumping over 2K into VGAs...it looks like I gotta spend a bit more yet.
> 
> I'm just happy that both my RIVBE boards seem to be working great now, and I have nothing to complain about the board itself... any left over issues I have are all cooling.


Ill be using x2 sli or tri sli reference 780s eventually. Haven't decided which route yet. I got a feeling they're not going to oc much with the heat. Have you just run x2 in your system? I might just stop with that for now if the references cards will do that fairly well


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Ill be using x2 sli or tri sli reference 780s eventually. Haven't decided which route yet. I got a feeling they're not going to oc much with the heat. Have you just run x2 in your system? I might just stop with that for now if the references cards will do that fairly well


Yeah, I started with 2 cards, since I could only get 2 with the discount I had. I ran those for a bit, found them to run really well, actually, and I didn't really need the third except in a few situations in multi-monitor. At the same time, I use a few games that aren't supported by surround or SLi, and present a black-screen when either is enabled, so I switch surround on and off fairly often. With two cards, this doesn't work well enough for me, but with three cards, and one monitor plugged into each card, it seems to work a whole heck of a lot better.

The cards do throttle a bit more in some apps, but in others, it actually runs better with three cards, if v-sync is enabled, since the load per card is less... or at least, that's the most reasonable excuse I have come up with for why that is.









So, if you run 3x monitor, I highly recommend getting the third...if just a single panel, 2x VGA is enough, IMHO.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, I started with 2 cards, since I could only get 2 with the discount I had. I ran those for a bit, found them to run really well, actually, and I didn't really need the third except in a few situations in multi-monitor. At the same time, I use a few games that aren't supported by surround or SLi, and present a black-screen when either is enabled, so I switch surround on and off fairly often. With two cards, this doesn't work well enough for me, but with three cards, and one monitor plugged into each card, it seems to work a whole heck of a lot better.
> 
> The cards do throttle a bit more in some apps, but in others, it actually runs better with three cards, if v-sync is enabled, since the load per card is less... or at least, that's the most reasonable excuse I have come up with for why that is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if you run 3x monitor, I highly recommend getting the third...if just a single panel, 2x VGA is enough, IMHO.


Yeah im gonna run nvidia surround so that might be the way to go. How do you like your Air 540? Lovin mine so far.


----------



## Ajay57

As for TIM this up to date review is really good for helping you decide which to use!!









Myself i use the no 1 rated Gelid Extreme on my CPU + GPU's.

1, http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=71658

Enjoy everyone and have a good read!!!!









AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

Tx for the review. Air and LN2... but they do not test high mount pressure water blocks? Indigo would have been a good reference point to include for comparison of test methods. up-to date, but as you know, the data is only as good as the lab it came from. Good to see NT-H1 doing so well










Gelid would be at the top no mater what


----------



## Ajay57

Thanks JPM i know you would be interested that's why i posted that for you to look at, being from the HWbot!!
















Best Regards,

AJ.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

y u no use coolaboratory pro/ultra ..?


----------



## NEOAethyr

Most tim's are baised on silicone and zinc oxide powder.
You can make you own with silicone and certain brands of baby powder lol.

I hate artic silver branded tim's.
They leak and dry out way to fast.
There epoxies suck too, they can't handle the cold at all.

I've been using pk-1, and that's good stuff.
It doesn't leak at all, so it'll hold up for along time.
I plan on switching to pk-3 when I have the spare cash.
Those are made out of nano aluminum (don't try to make your own, it's explosive when it hits water).

I pay more attention to the materials these days then word of mouth.
Though I picked it out baised on a ton of diff reviews I looked through, and the materiel it's baised off from.

If I can get my hands on some graphene powder I'll make my own and try it.
I know how to make activated carbon and bio char, but I don't know how to make graphite yet.
And I need graphene oxide to make graphene.
Graphene oxide, in bulk, is made with a chemical process.
And I don't know anything about that at the moment, my cousin is interested in helping me out on that though.
A vial of graphene oxide is a few 100 $'s..., expensive.

I have not looked into silicone carbide though, it's something I just thought of this sec.

Edit:
As for the liquid metals, I don't really trust them not to eat up my heatsinks, and I worry about the waste getting into my ground water, or my carpet for that matter.
I got a kitty, I wouldn't want him getting sick.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Yeah im gonna run nvidia surround so that might be the way to go. How do you like your Air 540? Lovin mine so far.


It's a good value for the money. I wish the window have fan mounts. Otherwise, I have nothing but positive things to say.


----------



## Ajay57

The only important thing to be aware of is some certain TIM are good Voltage and current conductors, so leaks and spreading can be a problem!!









Other than this its just what works for yourself overall.









AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Thanks JPM i know you would be interested that's why i posted that for you to look at, being from the HWbot!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> AJ.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> y u no use coolaboratory pro/ultra ..?


Gallium forms amalgams with several metals... great stuff if you have the right surfaces.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gallium forms amalgams with several metals... great stuff if you have the right surfaces.


ok, so in this case not ?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> ok, so in this case not ?


what case? if your heat sink in copper, aluminum or and alloy of either - not good with CLU or CLP. Alu will be Alu-Ga amalgam, copper will need lapping.


----------



## sam66er

Finally my RIVBE is here --- Order on jan 2014 and it arrive 25 april 2014 due to seller address data base problem and give a wrong country code that cause this package fly around Madagascar for around more than 4 months. lot of effort was put in to push the post master to retrieve back this parcel. Well !! now is running on my PC . Definitely this Mobo leave a great impression on me, not the spec instead is the journey.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

I'm using it between an ek supremacy copper base and a 4770k delid no ihs. I didn't do any lapping and it never goes above 50 C @4700mhz 1.412v


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's a good value for the money. I wish the window have fan mounts. Otherwise, I have nothing but positive things to say.


My thoughts exactly. I thought about modding the window for a fan but I like the big window so much...lol


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> Most tim's are baised on silicone and zinc oxide powder.
> You can make you own with silicone and certain brands of baby powder lol.
> 
> I hate artic silver branded tim's.
> They leak and dry out way to fast.
> There epoxies suck too, they can't handle the cold at all.
> 
> I've been using pk-1, and that's good stuff.
> It doesn't leak at all, so it'll hold up for along time.
> I plan on switching to pk-3 when I have the spare cash.
> Those are made out of nano aluminum (don't try to make your own, it's explosive when it hits water).
> 
> I pay more attention to the materials these days then word of mouth.
> Though I picked it out baised on a ton of diff reviews I looked through, and the materiel it's baised off from.
> 
> If I can get my hands on some graphene powder I'll make my own and try it.
> I know how to make activated carbon and bio char, but I don't know how to make graphite yet.
> And I need graphene oxide to make graphene.
> Graphene oxide, in bulk, is made with a chemical process.
> And I don't know anything about that at the moment, my cousin is interested in helping me out on that though.
> A vial of graphene oxide is a few 100 $'s..., expensive.
> 
> I have not looked into silicone carbide though, it's something I just thought of this sec.
> 
> Edit:
> As for the liquid metals, I don't really trust them not to eat up my heatsinks, and I worry about the waste getting into my ground water, or my carpet for that matter.
> I got a kitty, I wouldn't want him getting sick.


Even the gallium radioactive compound, gallium [67Ga] citrate, can be injected into the body and used for gallium scanning without harmful effects.


----------



## bags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I will try the gpu driver. First I will use ddu then reinstall current drivers which are the latest from nvidia. If that doesn't work ill revert back to another driver. If it is as simple as a driver issue that would be great. I was just wanting to rule out ram and CPU instability. Since I was in the middle of overclocking and testing stability.
> Honestly this all started with the stability testing of the CPU. I had already done testing with a variety of tests ( aida64, prime95, IBT, and they all passed. I was just trying to add another stress test into the mix to see if I was stable. When I encountered the problem with realbench v2. I thought that I might not have been fully stable.


How did you go with this? I'm having the same issue with Luxmark crashing in RealBench stress test


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bags*
> 
> How did you go with this? I'm having the same issue with Luxmark crashing in RealBench stress test


I reinstalled video drivers after running DDU. I just finished running it again it seems to have straightened out. Ran the benchmark fine. ran the stability test same result. luxmark crashes. I dunno what it is or whats going on with it but I can pass and have passed extensive sessions of Prime95, aida64 IBT AVX. And extensive gameplay with battlefield 3, star trek online, stwor. No problems whatsoever. my latest overclock also fixed my heaven and valley crashes so i guess it just doesn't like realbench...lol


----------



## bags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I reinstalled video drivers after running DDU. I just finished running it again it seems to have straightened out. Ran the benchmark fine. ran the stability test same result. luxmark crashes. I dunno what it is or whats going on with it but I can pass and have passed extensive sessions of Prime95, aida64 IBT AVX. And extensive gameplay with battlefield 3, star trek online, stwor. No problems whatsoever. my latest overclock also fixed my heaven and valley crashes so i guess it just doesn't like realbench...lol


Found this thread on the rog forum, but doesn't seem much help (yet): http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?41322-Luxmark-OpenCL-problem.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> I'm using it between an ek supremacy copper base and a 4770k delid no ihs. I didn't do any lapping and it never goes above 50 C @4700mhz 1.412v


gallium citrate is not gallium metal. and nobody uses gallium scans anymore. CLU/P contains indium and tin (basically the same stuff in a thermometer "mercury" replacement)
when you pull that ek block, the copper will be very "tarnished". see this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1363440/nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-owners-club/23380_20#post_22149437

I used it on my dellided 3770K, but really nothing else. too much of a PIA.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Did exactly this. It passes Cinebench but does not pass P95.
> 
> Turbo voltage at 0.08 . It bluescreens in P95. Cores are synced to 4.6
> 
> I'm dropping it to 4.5ghz just to see if I can get it stable.
> 
> 4.5 is stable 1.264v from cpu-z at load.
> 
> Temp highest is 62c. I was able to run 4.5ghz at 0.06 turbo voltage. Cores synced to 4.5
> 
> Do I drop the turbo voltage more? I think I'm going to just run it at 4.5 since it seems very stable.


That's excellent Viper !
I would be happy to have it stable at 4.5 with a max of 1.264v on Offset. I'm not greedy. Could you post your settings?


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> gallium citrate is not gallium metal. and nobody uses gallium scans anymore. CLU/P contains indium and tin (basically the same stuff in a thermometer "mercury" replacement)
> when you pull that ek block, the copper will be very "tarnished". see this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1363440/nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-owners-club/23380_20#post_22149437
> 
> I used it on my dellided 3770K, but really nothing else. too much of a PIA.


Back when I did it, everyone was recommending and using liquid pro/ultra
-.-
Tell me in before hand next time, pleees .. on thuesday I was planning on moving this ek block to a 3930 .. damn now I might be forced to get a new block. But hey, doesn't ek blocks ship with gc extreme ? Well atleast I'll save ten bux on that


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> gallium citrate is not gallium metal. and nobody uses gallium scans anymore. CLU/P contains indium and tin (basically the same stuff in a thermometer "mercury" replacement)
> when you pull that ek block, the copper will be very "tarnished". see this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1363440/nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-owners-club/23380_20#post_22149437
> 
> I used it on my dellided 3770K, but really nothing else. too much of a PIA.
> 
> 
> 
> Back when I did it, everyone was recommending and using liquid pro/ultra
> -.-
> Tell me in before hand next time, pleees .. on thuesday I was planning on moving this ek block to a 3930 .. damn now I might be forced to get a new block. But hey, doesn't ek blocks ship with gc extreme ? Well atleast I'll save ten bux on that
Click to expand...

the block is not ruined....


----------



## skupples

CLU is fine, they also still list Gallium as an ingredient, though that could have changed. Either way, it will pit the surface of your pure copper block, but from what I can tell no real damage is done in the way of heat dissipation. You could also use the scotch bright pad they provide to attempt to remove said pitting. I used super super fine sand paper on my CPU block to make it go away, but left it as is on my GPU blocks.


----------



## Errorist66

I need some advice here. restarting my OC fresh. Trying to keep the voltage under control. So I have VCore in offset + 0.005v. LLC at high and turbo voltage at 0.074v. VCCSA at 1.15. On reboot, the VCore is at 1.404v. If I put the computer to sleep and wake it up, then Vcore is at 1.328, 1.34 under Prime.

How can I fix this so that the VCore after reboot is at 1.328v and not 1.404. I'm at 100x44 so 1.4v is just overkill.

bios screenshot: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwV1vVINhSfKVnhIdEMxcDZXb00&usp=sharing


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I need some advice here. restarting my OC fresh. Trying to keep the voltage under control. So I have VCore in offset + 0.005v. LLC at high and turbo voltage at 0.074v. VCCSA at 1.15. On reboot, the VCore is at 1.404v. If I put the computer to sleep and wake it up, then Vcore is at 1.328, 1.34 under Prime.
> 
> How can I fix this so that the VCore after reboot is at 1.328v and not 1.404. I'm at 100x44 so 1.4v is just overkill.
> 
> bios screenshot: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwV1vVINhSfKVnhIdEMxcDZXb00&usp=sharing


You tried lowering the LLC to Medium?


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> You tried lowering the LLC to Medium?


just tried. same result.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> CLU is fine, they also still list Gallium as an ingredient, though that could have changed. Either way, it will pit the surface of your pure copper block, but from what I can tell no real damage is done in the way of heat dissipation. You could also use the scotch bright pad they provide to attempt to remove said pitting. I used super super fine sand paper on my CPU block to make it go away, but left it as is on my GPU blocks.


CLU is very good... especially if you like sanding and polishing your copper block.







Nah, seriously - you'd expect liquid metal to conduct heat well. And yes, it contains gallium, probably will not be able to remove Ga and have the liquid eutectic.

Easy solution if you use CLU/P, get a koolance 380i. best there is.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> just tried. same result.


uh yeah, 1.4V is "overkill" for 44x100. set LLC high, and lower additional turbo by like 20mV. Will it post to bios?
What is your vsa and vtt1 at?


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> uh yeah, 1.4V is "overkill" for 44x100. set LLC high, and lower additional turbo by like 20mV. Will it post to bios?
> What is your vsa and vtt1 at?


VCCSa at 1.15, VTT on auto. I'll lower the turbo voltage but why is going to sleep and back changing the voltage on the CPU core?


----------



## 4lek

Question: How did you guys placed 3 VGAs and an audio card on this mobo?

Couse i can't find a way..


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> uh yeah, 1.4V is "overkill" for 44x100. set LLC high, and lower additional turbo by like 20mV. Will it post to bios?
> What is your vsa and vtt1 at?


lower TurboV to 0.020. Booted to windows but quickly got the WHEA parity error BSOD.
Maybe the misconception in my head is that WHEA is fixed by VCore increase instead of VCCSA or VTT? I realised that I landed on a high turbo Voltage because VCCSA in auto was preventing the system from booting and I was increasing vcore to get it going.

I saw some member here simply sticking VCCSA and the 2 VTT at 1.2v and then working with Vcore and Turbo. Should I try that?

Thanks for the help.

bios original screenshot: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwV1vVINhSfKVnhIdEMxcDZXb00&usp=sharing


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> Question: How did you guys placed 3 VGAs and an audio card on this mobo?
> 
> Couse i can't find a way..


top 3 16 lanes PCI-E slot? leaves the 2 bottom (4X and 16X) free... Unless the VGA are triple slot.


----------



## 4lek

No,it leaves only the very bottom 16x free..


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> No,it leaves only the very bottom 16x free..


The audio card in this last slot could cause other VGA to go to 4X speed... I see. Any space under the Mobo to put a VGA in that last PCIE-16 slot?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> lower TurboV to 0.020. Booted to windows but quickly got the WHEA parity error BSOD.
> Maybe the misconception in my head is that WHEA is fixed by VCore increase instead of VCCSA or VTT? I realised that I landed on a high turbo Voltage because VCCSA in auto was preventing the system from booting and I was increasing vcore to get it going.
> 
> I saw some member here simply sticking VCCSA and the 2 VTT at 1.2v and then working with Vcore and Turbo. Should I try that?
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> bios original screenshot: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwV1vVINhSfKVnhIdEMxcDZXb00&usp=sharing


A whea... or MCE (machine check error) is a routine in ivy that verifies proc call checksums for "correctness". If they do not match, the CPU holds the stack and reruns the proc call... if it cannot match checksums, you get a MCE or even a fatal MCE. If it can match the CPU proiceeds to teh next item in the stack... but your CPU effeciency is affected (poorly) You are correct, whea should be stopped with additional vcore.. unless when raising vvcore you start getting 124 bsod... then it is possible the chip is at a hard limit. Try increasing vcore slowley until the whea stops. Note: WHEA can be occurring all the time, even when you think the IVY is stable. OPen event viewer, apps and services logs, microsift, windows, kernel whea. see if you have a shipload of 'em and post back.

put a usb key in any open port, post to bios and hit F12 on every settings screen. zip them in a folder and post here. We may be able to help.


----------



## 4lek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> The audio card in this last slot could cause other VGA to go to 4X speed... I see. Any space under the Mobo to put a VGA in that last PCIE-16 slot?


What?

Anyway pal it's simple:


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> What?
> 
> Anyway pal it's simple:


The audio card is probably PCI-4X. It is still possible to connect it to the last PCI-E-X16 but I don't know if this would force VGA2 to also go down to 4X instead of 8X.(number of PCI lane used). Hook it up and check with gpu-Z render test.

@JpmBoy. I have a link to my screen shot saved on my google drive. If you prefer I can take a new serie and upload them to OCN. And I check the event log. No whea between blue screen, I think. But I'll clear the log for next run.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> The audio card is probably PCI-4X. It is still possible to connect it to the last PCI-E-X16 but I don't know if this would force VGA2 to also go down to 4X instead of 8X.(number of PCI lane used). Hook it up and check with gpu-Z render test.
> 
> @JpmBoy. I have a link to my screen shot saved on my google drive. If you prefer I can take a new serie and upload them to OCN. And I check the event log. No whea between blue screen, I think. But I'll clear the log for next run.


Why would you want to put a audio card in one of the PCI-E slots, when you have the X1 slots to use? And if I remember correct a third video card goes to 16 X 8X 8


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> A whea... or MCE (machine check error) is a routine in ivy that verifies proc call checksums for "correctness". If they do not match, the CPU holds the stack and reruns the proc call... if it cannot match checksums, you get a MCE or even a fatal MCE. If it can match the CPU proiceeds to teh next item in the stack... but your CPU effeciency is affected (poorly) You are correct, whea should be stopped with additional vcore.. unless when raising vvcore you start getting 124 bsod... then it is possible the chip is at a hard limit. Try increasing vcore slowley until the whea stops. Note: WHEA can be occurring all the time, even when you think the IVY is stable. OPen event viewer, apps and services logs, microsift, windows, kernel whea. see if you have a shipload of 'em and post back.
> 
> put a usb key in any open port, post to bios and hit F12 on every settings screen. zip them in a folder and post here. We may be able to help.


Hmm, that's the error I get when I tried the overclock to 4.6 .

It's the BSOD I got, the WHEA one. All the time when I was trying to get a stable 4.6

I got my 4.5ghz stable at 1.276v. I could have done a bit lower but it occasionally did a BSOD resuming from screen saver.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Why would you want to put a audio card in one of the PCI-E slots, when you have the X1 slots to use? And if I remember correct a third video card goes to 16 X 8X 8


Correct, worst case scenario is the board dropping to 8x8x8 if in tri-sli w/ sound card.

The 1x slot much be obstructed for him, which likely means he isn't water cooling, or is using a fat ass block.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Correct, worst case scenario is the board dropping to 8x8x8 if in tri-sli w/ sound card.
> 
> The 1x slot much be obstructed for him, which likely means he isn't water cooling, or is using a fat ass block.


Well if he has the #1 slot with a card and the #2, he should still be able to put a sound in the #1 x1 slot. If is using three card he couldn't use #2. The only way for him not to use the #1 X1 slot is if he has a card in the slot right below the #1 PCI- E slot, that mean he has the board config wrong and he is using 4 cards.

Look at this picture and you will see what I am talking about.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club


----------



## 4lek

I only have 2 vga at the moment, one in slot #1 and the other in slot #3.
And i'm using X1 #1 for audio card.

But i was planning to place another gpu there, and i have to use slot #2 (since using #4 i'm not able to use fans,usb and system pannel connectors) ...

So quuestion is? what about audio card if both thr x1 are covered up buy VGAs?


----------



## Dantrax

Use These under your video cards but don't use the bottom x16 slot #4 because all slots will downgrade to x8 speed. If you put your video cards in slots 1,2,3 with these extenders you'll get x16, x16 ,x8 from your video cards.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Hmm, that's the error I get when I tried the overclock to 4.6 .
> 
> It's the BSOD I got, the WHEA one. All the time when I was trying to get a stable 4.6
> 
> I got my 4.5ghz stable at 1.276v. I could have done a bit lower but it occasionally did a BSOD resuming from screen saver.


so, 4.6 must have needed something like 1.34V?
the WHEA or MCE routine is normal, a BSOD is the fatal MCE, after you stop the whea/mce bsod, be sure to check the event viewer file i pointed out. they can still be occurring, but not fatal. If so, your cpu productivity is drastically reduced. SB and SB-E do not have the MCE error trap... so they just bsod 101, or what ever accumulated the errors and failed is "blamed" for the bsod


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> for anything less than 4.8GHz you should not need LLC at Very High! Use High or medium. vdroop is a good thing (especially with a dynamic vcore/vid = offset OC). transient load spikes are not a good thing. vdroop compensates for this.


One thing I've always been unclear about, though, is the relationship between LLC & CPU Current Capability. Wouldn't setting LLC low and CC high be counterproductive? I see conflicting reports about CC -- some say leave it on Auto, others say not to exceed 130%, and still others say if you're having trouble getting stable set it as high as 180%.

If you set the right vcore/turbo, why do you need CPU CC at all? Do we know what Asus "Auto" sets it to?


----------



## Mega Man

Cc just allows the cpu to pull more amperage. Apps can not be pushed. But are always pulled as needed.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Cc just allows the cpu to pull more amperage. Apps can not be pushed. But are always pulled as needed.


Ah, ok, thanks.... so it doesn't affect the voltage at all, it just caps the amps the chip can pull at the set vcore?

So, what is the standard "stock" LLC? 100%? And which hype should I believe about the max safe LLC? If you believe those who say it's safe setting it at 180%, will the chip actually try to pull that much?

I revisited my oc this weekend, it hasn't really been 100% stable for some time, I just haven't had the opportunity to work on it until now. I got it stable (pending further testing) using offset + turbo, but my spidey senses tell me I may be able to lower vcore/turbo a tad with the right tweaks to LLC and/or CPU CC (or possibly VTT or PLL, both of which I left on Auto)


----------



## cadaveca

Your CPU will only pull what is required. Some chips need more than 100%....I have one that needs 160%...
If your CPU does not have enough, as my poopy chip did..it simply won't be stable.

"Stock" LLC is the "regular" setting.

My poopy chip runs fine with regular, and 160% current. IT is NOT stable with "Extreme" LLC and 100% current.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Your CPU will only pull what is required. Some chips need more than 100%....I have one that needs 160%...
> If your CPU does not have enough, as my poopy chip did..it simply won't be stable.


So, how do you know whether instability is due to too little vcore/turbo vs not enough CPU Current Capability? Let's say vcore+turbo yields 1.3v at load. The system is stable, but bsods after a few minutes in Prime95. Could raising CC from 130% to 150% potentially solve the problem without having to increase vcore+turbo? Raising CC would likely increase heat, but with custom wc where heat isn't an issue would that be a better tactic than raising voltage?

Sorry, above I meant to ask what is the stock CPU Current Capability setting (at stock speed)? And what does Asus "AUTO" set it at? Since the chip *can* ask for more, does that mean it's uncapped at stock/standard and choosing a manual setting just limits the CC?

p.s. sorry about the 'poopy chip' lol It happens to the best of us. I've had my share over the years -- my 4930K is actually the first time I feel like I ever got [moderately] lucky.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> So, how do you know whether instability is due to too little vcore/turbo vs not enough CPU Current Capability? Let's say vcore+turbo yields 1.3v at load. The system is stable, but bsods after a few minutes in Prime95. Could raising CC from 130% to 150% potentially solve the problem without having to increase vcore+turbo? Raising CC would likely increase heat, but with custom wc where heat isn't an issue would that be a better tactic than raising voltage?
> 
> Sorry, above I meant to ask what is the stock CPU Current Capability setting (at stock speed)? And what does Asus "AUTO" set it at? Since the chip *can* ask for more, does that mean it's uncapped at stock/standard and choosing a manual setting just limits the CC?
> 
> p.s. sorry about the 'poopy chip' lol It happens to the best of us. I've had my share over the years -- my 4930K is actually the first time I feel like I ever got [moderately] lucky.


I didn't buy my chips..I have ES chips direct from Intel. So I actually WANT to have "poopy" chips...so when I see you guys with similar, I am familiar with the experience. When working on OC guides as I am with this platform, I do actually ask for both good and bad chips, so that I can play with both, and find "tricks" that work for each side of that coin... rather than just focusing on what works for the "best" chips. I don't post my LN2 results online for anyone to see, and don't use HWBOT rankings, so "getting the best" isn't of any concern to me at all. Me.. I'm not important.. what's important is the hardware, and there is both good and bad hardware...

For "Auto" setting, that depends on what BIOS you are using, so here's how you find out...

Simply load up AI Suite III after a CMOS clear, and check DIGI+ settings. That is all.









Even with custom water, heat IS an issue. the max these chips can handle under air/water is about 200W-275W. Good chips will get closer to that 275W figure, poor chips closer to 200, before hitting what is really a thermal limit. The IHS and solder under the IHS are only capable of removing so much heat, and getting over that limit requires going to LN2 or similar.

To figure out if current setting is at fault, you need to watch voltages in real-time, using a multi-meter, and watch power consumption, keeping an eye on the variations according to workload. In other words...not an easy task. Personally, just set 180%, keep voltages under 1.3V, and go from there. Once perfectly stable at max OC there, lower current setting until not stable any more. Then you have found what your CPU needs for that clock, voltage, and LLC.


----------



## TheComputerNub

Does it have an HDMI port?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I didn't buy my chips..I have ES chips direct from Intel. So I actually WANT to have "poopy" chips...so when I see you guys with similar, I am familiar with the experience. When working on OC guides as I am with this platform, I do actually ask for both good and bad chips, so that I can play with both, and find "tricks" that work for each side of that coin... rather than just focusing on what works for the "best" chips. I don't post my LN2 results online for anyone to see, and don't use HWBOT rankings, so "getting the best" isn't of any concern to me at all. Me.. I'm not important.. what's important is the hardware, and there is both good and bad hardware...
> 
> For "Auto" setting, that depends on what BIOS you are using, so here's how you find out...
> 
> Simply load up AI Suite III after a CMOS clear, and check DIGI+ settings. That is all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with custom water, heat IS an issue. the max these chips can handle under air/water is about 200W-275W. Good chips will get closer to that 275W figure, poor chips closer to 200, before hitting what is really a thermal limit. The IHS and solder under the IHS are only capable of removing so much heat, and getting over that limit requires going to LN2 or similar.
> 
> To figure out if current setting is at fault, you need to watch voltages in real-time, using a multi-meter, and watch power consumption, keeping an eye on the variations according to workload. In other words...not an easy task. Personally, just set 180%, keep voltages under 1.3V, and go from there. Once perfectly stable at max OC there, lower current setting until not stable any more. Then you have found what your CPU needs for that clock, voltage, and LLC.


Awesome, I'll give that a try, thank you!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheComputerNub*
> 
> Does it have an HDMI port?


The RIVBE does not have an HDMI port. This probably isn't the best board for you if you're not planning to have at least one GPU.

edit:


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Awesome, I'll give that a try, thank you!


140% is on this Mobo is 100%, also 140% is the setting Asus use on the Auto setting!!

So let me try that one more time here!!

140% = AUTO and 100% on any other motherboards!

Running @ 180% will not hurt or harm things as the CPU and Board will only take what it needs or requires!

So you can set it @ 180% then adjust the Vcore and LLC to what makes things stable, but there are so many other things that affect OVERCLOCKING!

That its not the be all and end all to everyone's problems and all CPU's are Different hence the silicone lottery!

AJ.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> 140% is on this Mobo is 100%, also 140% is the setting Asus use on the Auto setting!!
> 
> So let me try that one more time here!!
> 
> 140% = AUTO and 100% on any other motherboards!
> 
> Running @ 180% will not hurt or harm things as the CPU and Board will only take what it needs or requires!
> 
> So you can set it @ 180% then adjust the Vcore and LLC to what makes things stable, but there are so many other things that affect OVERCLOCKING!
> 
> That its not the be all and end all to everyone's problems and all CPU's are Different hence the silicone lottery!
> 
> AJ.


Thanks, that's the "Auto" answer I was looking for.







And I absolutely agree. But vcore/turbo is also not the end-all-be-all of overclocking. Just raising vcore any/every time it crashes is sloppy overclocking. I'm trying to better understand the more nuanced settings on the the RIV that might help stabilize my oc without raising vcore. I'm at that point where the system is stable 99% of the time, but still crashes once in a while in Prime95 small FFTs or IBT (i.e. extreme cpu AVX stress). I'm just trying to pinpoint where the weakness is, and I have a feeling since it's stable under most other stress tests, gaming, encoding, etc, it's something more refined than just 'not enough vcore'.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> One thing I've always been unclear about, though, is the relationship between LLC & CPU Current Capability. Wouldn't setting LLC low and CC high be counterproductive? I see conflicting reports about CC -- some say leave it on Auto, others say not to exceed 130%, and still others say if you're having trouble getting stable set it as high as 180%.
> 
> If you set the right vcore/turbo, why do you need CPU CC at all? Do we know what Asus "Auto" sets it to?


Auto with the 602 bios is 140% according to Raja. current limits and LLC are only somewhat related. CC sets the ceiling on how much current your cpu would be permitted to draw (if it asks









What LLC does is defeat vdroop ... to varying amounts depending on what you set it to. And as you know, vdroop was engineered into the power section to compensate for load line overshoot during load transitions (transition spikes - the voltage control is not a step function, but follows a simple decay curve). I have an old example pic somewhere...

old, but conveys the idea. (labels refer to Yorkfield gen cpu) "V offset" is vdroop in the example.




use the least Load Line Compensation you can get stable with.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> gallium citrate is not gallium metal. and nobody uses gallium scans anymore. CLU/P contains indium and tin (basically the same stuff in a thermometer "mercury" replacement)
> when you pull that ek block, the copper will be very "tarnished". see this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1363440/nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-owners-club/23380_20#post_22149437
> 
> I used it on my dellided 3770K, but really nothing else. too much of a PIA.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> 140% is on this Mobo is 100%, also 140% is the setting Asus use on the Auto setting!!
> 
> So let me try that one more time here!!
> 
> 140% = AUTO and 100% on any other motherboards!
> 
> Running @ 180% will not hurt or harm things as the CPU and Board will only take what it needs or requires!
> 
> So you can set it @ 180% then adjust the Vcore and LLC to what makes things stable, but there are so many other things that affect OVERCLOCKING!
> 
> That its not the be all and end all to everyone's problems and all CPU's are Different hence the silicone lottery!
> 
> AJ.


I know this so well regarding cpu lottery, I recently had to have my board and cpu replaced and my new cpu is a crap ocer 4100mhz @ 1.328v can't seem to get it any lower.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> I know this so well regarding cpu lottery, I recently had to have my board and cpu replaced and my new cpu is a crap ocer 4100mhz @ 1.328v can't seem to get it any lower.


ugh !


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> I know this so well regarding cpu lottery, I recently had to have my board and cpu replaced and my new cpu is a crap ocer 4100mhz @ 1.328v can't seem to get it any lower.


Did you RMA your old chip to Intel? I've heard numerous reports of replacement chips from Intel that are dud overclockers....enough to make me suspect they use the replacement plan as an avenue to unload their worst production runs.

That said, 4.1GHz @ 1.328v can't be right. That would make it quite literally the world's worst IB-e. Pretty much any 4930K should do 4.1Ghz just barely over stock VID (or even under it). Are you sure there's not something else in your bios settings holding you back?


----------



## TheComputerNub

oh ok then







is there a way to have 1 put in or a way to have it able to hook up to a tv? (im using a 32" tv for my moniter)


----------



## TheComputerNub

Oh and do any of you mind helping me out on this: http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5773338 its my rig i wana use but i need some help (ComputerNub)


----------



## 4lek

Erm... i had some tests tooday, basically i tested single VGA performace in each slot.

And what i found is (both) my GTX 780ti scoars 10~15% better in every bench when runs in an 8x slot.

Also.. if i run a single card in 3rd slot it makes the bench craash or takes to BSoD.

Question is... ***?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheComputerNub*
> 
> Oh and do any of you mind helping me out on this: http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5773338 its my rig i wana use but i need some help (ComputerNub)


You're in the wrong thread. This thread is for users/owners of the Rampage IV motherboard.

The graphics cards will have HDMI connections.


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Having trouble maintaining 4x8GB @ 2133MHz with a 4930K on my new Rampage Black. Can someone post their VCCSA and VTT numbers so I can get a baseline? I'm currently at 1.1v for VTT, 1.05v for VCCSA and 1.65v for memory.


----------



## TheComputerNub

oh sorry


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clairvoyant129*
> 
> Having trouble maintaining 4x8GB @ 2133MHz with a 4930K on my new Rampage Black. Can someone post their VCCSA and VTT numbers so I can get a baseline? I'm currently at 1.1v for VTT, 1.05v for VCCSA and 1.65v for memory.


What i would do is take time out to read this post by the TOP OC guy in the UK plus he has won more Comps than i can remember on the HWbot!!

This will explain the relationship between ram and the Straps, plus what settings to use for the basic and best stability for a X79 Platform!

Now it might not guarantee it will work for you, but you will have a much better understanding how things work together when Overclocking!

1, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907

This is how i spend my time reading all kinds of Info in different threads to gain as much as i can and improve my knowledge!!!

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Did you RMA your old chip to Intel? I've heard numerous reports of replacement chips from Intel that are dud overclockers....enough to make me suspect they use the replacement plan as an avenue to unload their worst production runs.
> 
> That said, 4.1GHz @ 1.328v can't be right. That would make it quite literally the world's worst IB-e. Pretty much any 4930K should do 4.1Ghz just barely over stock VID (or even under it). Are you sure there's not something else in your bios settings holding you back?


Both were replaced by my supplier here in NZ, could it be a bad psu? Will post my settings later at work right now.


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> What i would do is take time out to read this post by the TOP OC guy in the UK plus he has won more Comps than i can remember on the HWbot!!
> 
> This will explain the relationship between ram and the Straps, plus what settings to use for the basic and best stability for a X79 Platform!
> 
> Now it might not guarantee it will work for you, but you will have a much better understanding how things work together when Overclocking!
> 
> 1, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907
> 
> This is how i spend my time reading all kinds of Info in different threads to gain as much as i can and improve my knowledge!!!
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


Very helpful, thanks.


----------



## fishingfanatic

Ditto AJ. I do a lot of reading trying to find a better, more efficient way od ocing, including gpus,...

Right now it's a challenge to get my cpu clocked higher, the board has so many variables that can be adjusted.

As a newbie if I didn't read a lot of posts,.... I likely would've wrecked something by now.

There are a lot of helpful people on here which keeps it from becoming too overwhelming.









FF


----------



## Ajay57

I really enjoy helping people, so long as they wish to learn and take things on-board!!

Its just those who tend to know it all that kinda rub me up the wrong way.

To be Honest i am nearly 60 Years Old here and i still see and learn new things nearly everyday!









Yeah a 60 Year Old Overclocker not many of us around that can say that Bud!
















Lol!!

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## fishingfanatic

Well Ajay, u do have a few yrs on me but mid 50s for me. Most of the time things work out with help from others, and then there are guys like me who

can be a pita, but in a good way. Comes from experience, which we have.

Measure 3 times, cut once...









FF


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I really enjoy helping people, so long as they wish to learn and take things on-board!!
> Its just those who tend to know it all that kinda rub me up the wrong way.
> To be Honest i am nearly 60 Years Old here and i still see and learn new things nearly everyday!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah a 60 Year Old Overclocker not many of us around that can say that Bud!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol!!
> Respectfully,
> AJ.


Ha! 1955 here!


----------



## Mega Man

Cc has zero effect on heat. Think if it as a current limiter. That you can not go past.

Another I
Analogy is a rpm limiter. So it is at 6k rpms and you move it to 10k rpm. Moving the limiter does not give you more heat. It opens up more power resources that if you use may cause more heat.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clairvoyant129*
> 
> Having trouble maintaining 4x8GB @ 2133MHz with a 4930K on my new Rampage Black. Can someone post their VCCSA and VTT numbers so I can get a baseline? I'm currently at 1.1v for VTT, 1.05v for VCCSA and 1.65v for memory.


Have you raised ram. On several of my recent boards I had to take into account vdroop and push 0.05to.1v more it always helps my ocs


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *Cc has zero effect on heat*. Think if it as a current limiter. That you can not go past.
> 
> Another I
> Analogy is a rpm limiter. So it is at 6k rpms and you move it to 10k rpm. Moving the limiter does not give you more heat. It opens up more power resources that if you use may cause more heat.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Why would you want to put a audio card in one of the PCI-E slots, when you have the X1 slots to use? And if I remember correct a third video card goes to 16 X 8X 8


I don't know. 4Lek say that the VGA won't fit in the bottom PCI-E X16. I guess a photo would help. Maybe the MB too close to the PSU in his case. Maybe he didn't try it.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clairvoyant129*
> 
> Having trouble maintaining 4x8GB @ 2133MHz with a 4930K on my new Rampage Black. Can someone post their VCCSA and VTT numbers so I can get a baseline? I'm currently at 1.1v for VTT, 1.05v for VCCSA and 1.65v for memory.


The XMP13. profile on my 4x8GB G.Skill specify VCCSA at 1.2v as seen in the bios right most page. So I'm a baby overclocker at 47 (1966) lol.


----------



## Errorist66

I spent the evening trying to figure out a VCore offset for Strap 125 on my 4930k. Started by turning boost off so 34x125 and it needs 1.28v for 4.2. But re-enabling Turbo and setting max multiplied to 36 is a not go. It looks like strap 125 doesn't add voltage for turbo and the system will simply start loading windows and crash at various step. Tried changing the Turbo max voltage without any positive results. Went up to 300mv. Lost.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I spent the evening trying to figure out a VCore offset for Strap 125 on my 4930k. Started by turning boost off so 34x125 and it needs 1.28v for 4.2. But re-enabling Turbo and setting max multiplied to 36 is a not go. It looks like strap 125 doesn't add voltage for turbo and the system will simply start loading windows and crash at various step. Tried changing the Turbo max voltage without any positive results. Went up to 300mv. Lost.


I can't get a strapped offset vcore to work well either. can get it to windows (leave turbo on auto and add mV to Offset only). instant restart with R15...


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I can't get a strapped offset vcore to work well either. can get it to windows (leave turbo on auto and add mV to Offset only). instant restart with R15...


1.28v for 4.312 BCLK is at 127, Strap 125, RAM at 2333. This is still the lowest Voltage for 4.3 or above I ever achieved. At Strap 100 4.3GHz uses 1.34V and 4.5 is at 1.404v. I guess my chip is average but I suspect that my skills are the issue.

Also looks like voltage stays at 1.28-1.292v even when the multiplier goes back down to 12 so something is surely weird in the land of strap 125.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> 1.28v for 4.312 BCLK is at 127, Strap 125, RAM at 2333. This is still the lowest Voltage for 4.3 or above I ever achieved. At Strap 100 4.3GHz uses 1.34V and 4.5 is at 1.404v. I guess my chip is average but I suspect that my skills are the issue.
> 
> Also looks like voltage stays at 1.28-1.292v even when the multiplier goes back down to 12 so something is surely weird in the land of strap 125.


nah, it's not you.. because of the added base frequency, offset isn't working quite right, because you don't even have turbo enabled.








Kind of a bug in the platform in general, since all cores are set to same multi, rather than set dynamically. You need to go and re-enable some features in BIOS, which one of the few I can't remember.









I don't see any bad side to running higher voltage at idle; temps are a wee bit higher, but I don't mind, and I don't think the chips do either.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> I only have 2 vga at the moment, one in slot #1 and the other in slot #3.
> And i'm using X1 #1 for audio card.
> 
> But i was planning to place another gpu there, and i have to use slot #2 (since using #4 i'm not able to use fans,usb and system pannel connectors) ...
> 
> So quuestion is? what about audio card if both thr x1 are covered up buy VGAs?


I had a Phyx card in my #4 slot with no problem at all and I am using all my bottom connectors with no issues


----------



## Mega Man

@Errorist66

You know there is both a multi quote and an edit button. Some mods looks at that like spamming fyi


----------



## 4lek

I think i have to RMA my mobo.
Basically every vga i place in slot #3 causes crashes and BSoD.

#1 and #2 works greatly, even in sli... but #3 doesn't.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> I think i have to RMA my mobo.
> Basically every vga i place in slot #3 causes crashes and BSoD.
> 
> #1 and #2 works greatly, even in sli... but #3 doesn't.


I had that with my SB-E, but IVB-E works fine?


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> I think i have to RMA my mobo.
> Basically every vga i place in slot #3 causes crashes and BSoD.
> 
> #1 and #2 works greatly, even in sli... but #3 doesn't.


Try uninstalling the NVidia drivers, install the card and then do a clean install.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Try uninstalling the NVidia drivers, install the card and then do a clean install.


For me, the board doesn't even see the card. The light on the 3rd PCIe slot remains unlit, so it's CPU for sure in my case. That's the easy test to see if driver problem...if PCIe light is lit for that slot, driver it is. IF the slot light remains dim, then it's the CPU.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> I think i have to RMA my mobo.
> Basically every vga i place in slot #3 causes crashes and BSoD.
> 
> #1 and #2 works greatly, even in sli... but #3 doesn't.


did you try connecting the 4pin MOLEX to the bottom of the MB?

@Mega man, Thanks for the heads up on spamming. i'll be more careful in the future. (really you are right and I didn't think it was rude







) and sry @cadaveca I got the wrong reference. (See I edit the post







)


----------



## Mega Man

i was not trying to be rude pointing it out i was trying to help


----------



## Braxos

Is maybe the pci-e #3 disabled from the switch? Sounds dumb suggestion but you never know.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> I think i have to RMA my mobo.
> Basically every vga i place in slot #3 causes crashes and BSoD.
> 
> #1 and #2 works greatly, even in sli... but #3 doesn't.


Have you tried a new sli bridge I had the same issue and my sli bridge the slot for the thrid one was bad. Try flipping pcie lane 1 and 2 off and leave 3 on boot it up and see if the issue remains. If not then replace bridge. Especially if you have the evga bridge there bad about going bad.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Have you tried a new sli bridge I had the same issue and my sli bridge the slot for the thrid one was bad. Try flipping pcie lane 1 and 2 off and leave 3 on boot it up and see if the issue remains. If not then replace bridge. Especially if you have the evga bridge there bad about going bad.


That's one good tip, man, one good tip.


----------



## Errorist66

what's the realistic range on bclk with strap 125? I have mine at 129, turbo disabled and vcore at 1.31v. Anytime turbo is enabled I land on 1.38v or 1.404v.


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> What i would do is take time out to read this post by the TOP OC guy in the UK plus he has won more Comps than i can remember on the HWbot!!
> 
> This will explain the relationship between ram and the Straps, plus what settings to use for the basic and best stability for a X79 Platform!
> 
> Now it might not guarantee it will work for you, but you will have a much better understanding how things work together when Overclocking!
> 
> 1, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907
> 
> This is how i spend my time reading all kinds of Info in different threads to gain as much as i can and improve my knowledge!!!
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


Thanks for your link. I was able to get 4.4GHz @ 1.28v and 4.5GHz @ 1.34 with 4x8GB @ 2133MHz.







Temps around 65-66C with P95.

Gonna try and push for 4.6GHz.


----------



## Ajay57

I am glad to see that the link i posted as helped you!
With the Ram on this Mobo platform 2133 is the sweet spot! I hope you can go higher, but in some cases the extra 100Hz is not much of a gain.
But its only good for bragging rights!!!
Good Luck,
AJ.


----------



## 4lek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Try uninstalling the NVidia drivers, install the card and then do a clean install.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Have you tried a new sli bridge I had the same issue and my sli bridge the slot for the thrid one was bad. Try flipping pcie lane 1 and 2 off and leave 3 on boot it up and see if the issue remains. If not then replace bridge. Especially if you have the evga bridge there bad about going bad.


Problem is the slot itself wasn't working not even with a single vga.

Anyway i left the mobo withouth its battery all the night, this morning i cleaned the slot witth isopropyl alcohol and than reinstalled OS and drivers.

Now it look as if it is working .. but is too early to open the champagne, need more tests...


----------



## TheComputerNub

Is the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition EATX DDR3 2133 Intel LGA 2011 Motherboard compatible/fit with/in the Thermaltake VN300M1W2N Thermaltake Case VN300M1W2N Chaser MK-1 Full Tower?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> Erm... i had some tests tooday, basically i tested single VGA performace in each slot.
> 
> And what i found is (both) my GTX 780ti scoars 10~15% better in every bench when runs in an 8x slot.
> 
> Also.. if i run a single card in 3rd slot it makes the bench craash or takes to BSoD.
> 
> Question is... ***?


Im glad you said this! I moved my Reference 780 to slot 3 to test something for another member. I've been having problems with Realbench V2 crashing within a few mins of the stability test. Cpu passes all other stress tests and use I can throw at it. When I had my gpu in slot 1 it didnt crash that I recall....I'm going to have to reinstall the GPU back into slot 1 and see if it still happens. Im interested in your question also.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Ok guys I think yall are starting to rub off on me. I'm thinking about going full custom loop watercooling. Ill be putting a list of components together for your input. My question is for guys with the Rampage IV Black Edition with the Air 540 case. What size rads have/did you guys put in your rigs? Should I be looking at just a cpu block? or should I go with blocks for the vrm and chipset also? I'm not really interested in going to crazy overclocks just lower temps at my higher overclocks. Thoughts? The bug has bit me this is going to get interesting!


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Im glad you said this! I moved my Reference 780 to slot 3 to test something for another member. I've been having problems with Realbench V2 crashing within a few mins of the stability test. Cpu passes all other stress tests and use I can throw at it. When I had my gpu in slot 1 it didnt crash that I recall....I'm going to have to reinstall the GPU back into slot 1 and see if it still happens. Im interested in your question also.


did you connect the 4pin MOLEX to the bottom of the MB?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> did you connect the 4pin MOLEX to the bottom of the MB?


No I don't I didn't think it was needed for running just 1 Gpu?


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> No I don't I didn't think it was needed for running just 1 Gpu?


I guess I read the post wrong, thought you had more than one.


----------



## JLMS2010

It's not needed for 1 GPU. I'm running 3 without any issues and don't have it connected.


----------



## AstralAnimal

I've found this interesting article on CPU temperature recommendations.
They are saying that "Intel considers anything below the TJ Max temperature to be SAFE."
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/353195-28-tcase-processor-degradation

_Guest: At what temperature I start degrading my processor ?
Intel: there is no such temperature, processors do not degrade since they are designed to work at high temperatures. When the TJ Max is reached the CPU throttles down to prevent damage
_
I wounder if this is true. Does anyone here know?

Perhaps I'm too worried about temps..


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> I've found this interesting article on CPU temperature recommendations.
> They are saying that "Intel considers anything below the TJ Max temperature to be SAFE."
> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/353195-28-tcase-processor-degradation
> 
> _Guest: At what temperature I start degrading my processor ?
> Intel: there is no such temperature, processors do not degrade since they are designed to work at high temperatures. When the TJ Max is reached the CPU throttles down to prevent damage
> _
> I wounder if this is true. Does anyone here know?
> 
> Perhaps I'm too worried about temps..


I think you have to read that in the context of staying within the normal range of stock voltages, and the hi temps as a result of less than adequate cooling setups.

We know exceedingly high voltages, even with well controlled temps, cause electron migration, I don't see how we can't expect near TJmax temps to exacerbate that at even moderately above stock voltages.

It seems that while it's been mostly anecdotal evidence that we conclude that on, there's certainly a damn lot of it . . . . . enough that I'm not going to run any of my CPU's anywhere near TJ max until I see some real lab evidence to the contrary.

Darlene


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We know exceedingly high voltages, even with well controlled temps, cause *electron migration*,
> I'm not going to run any of my CPU's anywhere near TJ max until I see some real lab evidence to the contrary.


I'm an immigrant and I was also electrocuted back in 1985, but I'm still kicking it. Haha!
Yes Darlene you are right and I'm trying to keep my temps as low as possible as well.
Thank you


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> I've found this interesting article on CPU temperature recommendations.
> They are saying that "Intel considers anything below the TJ Max temperature to be SAFE."
> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/353195-28-tcase-processor-degradation
> 
> _Guest: At what temperature I start degrading my processor ?
> Intel: there is no such temperature, processors do not degrade since they are designed to work at high temperatures. When the TJ Max is reached the CPU throttles down to prevent damage
> _
> I wounder if this is true. Does anyone here know?
> 
> Perhaps I'm too worried about temps..


Temperature doesn't degrade processors; electrical current does. And while the two are obviously related, they are not the same thing. That's why extreme overclocked chips degrade and die fast, even at temps at or near 0c.

The only thing to worry about with temperature is staying under TJMax (and not TOO close to it for extended periods).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We know exceedingly high voltages, even with well controlled temps, cause *electron migration*,
> I'm not going to run any of my CPU's anywhere near TJ max until I see some real lab evidence to the contrary.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm an immigrant and I was also electrocuted back in 1985, but I'm still kicking it. Haha!
> Yes Darlene you are right and I'm trying to keep my temps as low as possible as well.
> Thank you
Click to expand...

no . electrocution is shocked to death
Source

you were shocked !


----------



## skupples

BLOOOOODRECUTION


----------



## 4lek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> did you connect the 4pin MOLEX to the bottom of the MB?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> No I don't I didn't think it was needed for running just 1 Gpu?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> It's not needed for 1 GPU. I'm running 3 without any issues and don't have it connected.


I did. From the begining.
Probably it is not needed but i didn't see any reason to not do that









Anyway [keeping my fingers crossed] , my third slot is working now.
2way Sli is working too .. will see what happens when the third vga comes [finger crossed,finger crossed.. God i don't wanna send mobo to rma..the place where i bought usually takes 70 days ..when you are lucky..]


----------



## Mega Man

so... check out what my RIVBE is getting guys


they look so sexay


----------



## XViper2

I love the white theme. It might get dirty fast though.

I have a 2nd PSU but never needed it. BTW, it looks like the inside of a Caselabs TH10 in White. I have a black one.


----------



## Kimir

Wooha! And you'll see, they even glow white when powered on!


----------



## Zimzoid

Running without a case at the moment waiting for the Thermaltake Core V71 to be available in my country.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> I love the white theme. It might get dirty fast though.
> 
> I have a 2nd PSU but never needed it. BTW, it looks like the inside of a Caselabs TH10 in White. I have a black one.


gloss white actually
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Wooha! And you'll see, they even glow white when powered on!


yep i love it and i am 99% sure i can turn them on and off with my aquaero, i may even be able to find a way to dim them if i want.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yep i love it and i am 99% sure i can turn them on and off with my aquaero, i may even be able to find a way to dim them if i want.


How??? Covered mine in tape there just too bright!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yep i love it and i am 99% sure i can turn them on and off with my aquaero, i may even be able to find a way to dim them if i want.
> 
> 
> 
> How??? Covered mine in tape there just too bright!
Click to expand...

i HAVE NOT tested it yet, but if you look at the connectors on the psu end ( the wire connectors ) you will see one that simply attaches ( to ground i think ) you can cut it but when i make my own cables. i am going to just wire them through either my aquaero or multiswitch once i verify it ( if you have pin removal tools you can test it without cutting the wire ) i will do more testing tonight, now that i have access to my multi meter ( again i was in china ) i cant seem to find a pinout for them i am going to email super flower if i can not and if they wont help ill make my own, will be nice an easy as i only have to map out the 24pin connectors ( 2 ) and the 9 pin multi connector

i also have not done anything with leds on the neg side but in theory you could dim them by adding a resistor ( again not tested, but the idea is to lower the voltage thus lowering the brightness )


----------



## skupples

Ohhh, I like how the TH-10 has a wider hole in the mobo plate.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Ok guys here is the list of water cooling components that I've come up with. The only thing im missing is the Res haven't decided on that yet. What do you all think? Am I missing anything?


----------



## skupples

Need more compression fittings. 2x per block/radiator. Looks like you need @least 8 compression + hose clamps for the pump if yo uare using the stock housing.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Need more compression fittings. 2x per block/radiator. Looks like you need @least 8 compression + hose clamps for the pump if yo uare using the stock housing.


I edited the post you are correct in the pic i saw the compression fittings on the pump and thought it came with them...it did not. Thanks

Any thoughts on the components?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> I edited the post you are correct in the pic i saw the compression fittings on the pump and thought it came with them...it did not. Thanks
> 
> Any thoughts on the components?


Its all solid stuff. Just make sure you flush those radiators really well w/ hot water. Sink water is fine, just re-flush them a few times w/ distilled afterwards. I would also throw in a few 45s & 90s.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Its all solid stuff. Just make sure you flush those radiators really well w/ hot water. Sink water is fine, just re-flush them a few times w/ distilled afterwards. I would also throw in a few 45s & 90s.


45's & 90's???


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 45's & 90's???


angle adapters. You may need one or two, specially coming off of the GPU.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> angle adapters. You may need one or two, specially coming off of the GPU.


Ahh I gotcha


----------



## Ace-

Hi all,

I've just put my rig together replacing my R3BE, forgive me if this has already been discussed but I can't find any option to disable all the on-board LED's like you could with the R3BE is this possible or something that may be released in the next bios update?


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Its all solid stuff. Just make sure you flush those radiators really well w/ hot water. Sink water is fine, just re-flush them a few times w/ distilled afterwards. I would also throw in a few 45s & 90s.


I would Half Boil a kettle until its not too HOT then pour into your RADS, then give it a good shake or do the Rad Dance!!

Then pour into a PYREX JUG and check for Bits of rubbish, repeat this 3 or 4 times or until the Water is fully clear of Bits!

After that flush out with Purified water, after that repeat until all your Rads are clean, why because if you do not, any BITS will enter your PUMP and can cause damage to it!









Also flush out the PUMP as well, while your cleaning the Rads.

Best of Luck,









AJ.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ace-*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've just put my rig together replacing my R3BE, forgive me if this has already been discussed but I can't find any option to disable all the on-board LED's like you could with the R3BE is this possible or something that may be released in the next bios update?


Look here:


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I would Half Boil a kettle until its not too HOT then pour into your RADS, then give it a good shake or do the Rad Dance!!
> 
> Then pour into a PYREX JUG and check for Bits of rubbish, repeat this 3 or 4 times or until the Water is fully clear of Bits!
> 
> After that flush out with Purified water, after that repeat until all your Rads are clean, why because if you do not, any BITS will enter your PUMP and can cause damage to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also flush out the PUMP as well, while your cleaning the Rads.
> 
> Best of Luck,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.






Also gotta worry about excess flux, which is mostly water soluble.(Alphacool has been known to have LOTS of excess flux)


----------



## Ajay57

To be Honest Skupp when i cleaned and checked all my Rads, you would not believe how much rubbish and bits came out!!!
















And you would think on brand new it should be OK!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## skupples

I use a sump pump to blast my rad clean . a few drops of vinegar then a second treatment with backing soda then just clean water. I've had too may issues as of recent and I'm tired of it.


----------



## Ace-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Look here:


Thanks for the reply, I have both of these options disabled however the Start & reset button are still illuminated along with the HDD activity LED and bios chip LED, also on the IO back panel the Clr CMOS switch is illuminated green as well as the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.

On the R3BE there was an option in the bios to disable all LEDs making for a more stealth look and it worked well with the Corsair 800D side panel on a 24/7 PC, the wife is giving me ear ache about the "Disco lights" on a night time


----------



## Ace-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ace-*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I have both of these options disabled however the Start & reset button are still illuminated along with the HDD activity LED and bios chip LED, also on the IO back panel the Clr CMOS switch is illuminated green as well as the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.
> 
> On the R3BE there was an option in the bios to disable all LEDs making for a more stealth look and it worked well with the Corsair 800D side panel on a 24/7 PC, the wife is giving me ear ache about the "Disco lights" on a night time


I unplugged the ROG light in the middle of the board, but this should also be able to be disabled through the bios, should be pretty straight forward for the ASUS bios gurus and I thought they would have carried this functionality through black edition range


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I would Half Boil a kettle until its not too HOT then pour into your RADS, then give it a good shake or do the Rad Dance!!
> Then pour into a PYREX JUG and check for Bits of rubbish, repeat this 3 or 4 times or until the Water is fully clear of Bits!
> After that flush out with Purified water, after that repeat until all your Rads are clean, why because if you do not, *any BITS will enter your PUMP* and can cause damage to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also flush out the PUMP as well, while your cleaning the Rads.
> Best of Luck,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


Always put a filter in-line on the pump inlet! Koolance has a great one, easy to clean.


----------



## ChrisAfric

Count me in!

Cable Management 101:


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Its all solid stuff. Just make sure you flush those radiators really well w/ hot water. Sink water is fine, just re-flush them a few times w/ distilled afterwards. I would also throw in a few 45s & 90s.
> 
> 
> 
> I would Half Boil a kettle until its not too HOT then pour into your RADS, then give it a good shake or do the Rad Dance!!
> 
> Then pour into a PYREX JUG and check for Bits of rubbish, repeat this 3 or 4 times or until the Water is fully clear of Bits!
> 
> After that flush out with Purified water, after that repeat until all your Rads are clean, why because if you do not, any BITS will enter your PUMP and can cause damage to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also flush out the PUMP as well, while your cleaning the Rads.
> 
> Best of Luck,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.
Click to expand...

meh boiling water would not hurt. it isnt like 200deg will melt the solder
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisAfric*
> 
> Count me in!
> 
> Cable Management 101:


welcome !


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so... check out what my RIVBE is getting guys
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they look so sexay


Where do you plan on putting the pump? Personally on the bottom of the res doesn't work for me because I have a 400ml res and 2 rads on top. I've mounted it on the mobo plate before but the screw holes ruin any future build and you need to buy a new one which costs $100. My current config is awkward.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so... check out what my RIVBE is getting guys
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they look so sexay
> 
> 
> 
> Where do you plan on putting the pump? Personally on the bottom of the res doesn't work for me because I have a 400ml res and 2 rads on top. I've mounted it on the mobo plate before but the screw holes ruin any future build and you need to buy a new one which costs $100. My current config is awkward.
Click to expand...

in the end this build will be getting either a mcp35x2 or MCP 350x2 ( if swiftech makes one ) x2 ( 4 pumps ) and i make them stand on the rad them self, so they get airflow as you can see that side does not have a window so i just generally wont worry about it


----------



## Jpmboy

so after the flurry a week or so, anyone adopt Offset overclocking?


----------



## 4lek

Me.


----------



## XViper2

Mines stable at 4.5 but won't go any higher.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> so after the flurry a week or so, anyone adopt Offset overclocking?


My memory clocks require 125 strapping young men.


----------



## kpoeticg

I tried messing around with some 125 straps and it was nothing but complete headaches for me. It's also around the time my 00 bootloops started, not sure if it's connected but asus should be sending me an email in the next few days hopefully shining some light on the problem.

I was trying to use the 125 to get my G Skill 2400 up to 2666, nothing crazy. Kept my cpu clocks reasonable, and temps were fine. I might just not understand enough what all the the bios settings do yet to raise the BCLK successfully. Wasn't til i was trying to diagnose my bootloop issue on the rog forums that i learned what VCCSA, VTT, & Current Capability actually do.....

@Mega Man, where the hell did you get those in USA?!? I've never been able to find Leadex Platinum's without EVGA written on them in the states. Are those the new 1200??


----------



## Mega Man

i went to china and bought them while i was there, unfortunately they dont have the 1200s at the ONLY vender in china so they are the 1000s. i offered to buy them in the leadex thread for people, sorry i didnt know you were interested


----------



## fishingfanatic

Yup. Still learning the preferred settings but it's helping to keep from adding more voltages.

Thanks for the help. Still lots to learn.

FF


----------



## kpoeticg

Well congrats man, those are some slick looking PSU's. 2 x 1200W Leadex Plats would be strictly epeen anyway









If they had 1200's in stock, i'd be pissed at myself for not knowing about your offer in the Leadex thread. 1000W's isn't enough for my build and dual PSU's would take up too much room

I wanted one of those 1000W's badly months ago before i decided on a Triple 290x setup. It came down to a decision between the Leadex Gold 1300W (EVGA G2) or the Antec HCP-1300 Platinum. I went with the Antec because the extra rails made me feel like my hardware was safer after i blew my last PSU by accidentally swapping G & +V on a wiring harness.

Of all the tempting things to buy over there, great choice!









Edit: Aren't those 1000W's the first PSU that was considered Titanium spec before the Titanium Certification was actually complete or sought after?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i went to china and bought them while i was there, unfortunately they dont have the 1200s at the ONLY vender in china so they are the 1000s. i offered to buy them in the leadex thread for people, sorry i didnt know you were interested


Man, I should have been following that thread! I could have come got one from ya! I got a 1200 watt a bit ago from ocuk and paid hella shipping costs. Now I am afraid I will need moar powar (780ti classified sli) and the 1000w would be a perfect fit I think. Plus it will match my 1200w. Oh well, I was able to get some Alpenföhn fans at least also in the same shipment so it was still worth it. They are simply stunning looking psus with great performance to match. Looks awesome Mega Man!


----------



## Jpmboy

Thanks guys - good to know a few picked it up...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> Me.










Intel put the capability there. good to use. NOW if thet'd only smooth out Strapped Offset!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Mines stable at 4.5 but won't go any higher.


Did it run a higher clock with a fixed vcore?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My memory clocks require 125 strapping young men.


Yeah - I spent hours trying to get 125 strap to work with offset. got as far as like 5 min of p95, then reboot. no bugcheck... nothing to help figure it out. Hope to try again this (rainy/cloudy) weekend.
i'm trying all ofset, turbo on auto next.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I tried messing around with some 125 straps and it was nothing but complete headaches for me. It's also around the time my 00 bootloops started, not sure if it's connected but asus should be sending me an email in the next few days hopefully shining some light on the problem.
> I was trying to use the 125 to get my G Skill 2400 up to 2666, nothing crazy. Kept my cpu clocks reasonable, and temps were fine. I might just not understand enough what all the the bios settings do yet to raise the BCLK successfully. Wasn't til i was trying to diagnose my bootloop issue on the rog forums that i learned what VCCSA, VTT, & Current Capability actually do.....
> @Mega Man
> , where the hell did you get those in USA?!? I've never been able to find Leadex Platinum's without EVGA written on them in the states. Are those the new 1200??


2400 ram at a low Cl will do just as well. This 2400 c9 ram has an overall better ram score than the 2666 c11 sticks I was running. Funny thing is, at 2203 c8 (103.3 bclk) read/write/copy is as good as anything I've rtied and only needs 0.995 vsa, 1.05 VTT.

___________________________________
FF - Anytime bud!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Yeah - I spent hours trying to get 125 strap to work with offset. got as far as like 5 min of p95, then reboot. no bugcheck... nothing to help figure it out. Hope to try again this (rainy/cloudy) weekend.
> i'm trying all ofset, turbo on auto next.


Just keep in mind that you need 37 multi or higher for Turbo to even be enabled, and 4500 MHz is 36x125...so no Turbo.

So if yyou aren't pushing 4625 or more, it's not surprising OFFSET isn't working properly.

Also, try higher BCLK base, lower multi, some multis seem more stable than others, and which multis those are seems to change from chip to chip.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Just keep in mind that you need 37 multi or higher for Turbo to even be enabled, and *4500 MHz is 36x125...so no Turbo.*
> So if yyou aren't pushing 4625 or more, it's not surprising OFFSET isn't working properly.
> Also, try higher BCLK base, lower multi, some multis seem more stable than others, and which multis those are seems to change from chip to chip.


THanks. Yeah, shooting for 4.625. What's worrisome about leaving turbo voltage control on auto is that it tends to overvolt the chip vs what it really needs. Either way, this has been anything but straight forward. 4.625/2133 fixed for m this chip is 1.296V rock stable. When I match that using O/T (2000 OR 2333 RAM) i can get to windows... sometimes. Many times it hangs at 9A on the debug... USB loading? Huh? TOO MANY GLITCHES IN STRAPPED OFFSET.


----------



## yttocstfarc

So since I'm stepping into this watercooling gig. At what clocks and voltage would you guys suggest getting watercooling for the chipset and vrms?


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> Mines stable at 4.5 but won't go any higher.


I'm also at 4.5GHz Synced
Offset+ 0.035
VCCSA Auto
Turbo 0.072
2400MHz memory
Vcore 1.42 under max load and 0.800 at idle
72C max temp under load on air
Score 1183 on Cinebench. (I can't seem to achieve a 2500 score)

I have noticed a problem: I can hear a glitching noise through my audio. Most noticeable when ROG CPU-Z is active. It sounds like clicks or crackling noises. I think it's something to do with the voltages. Has anyone noticed that? On stock speeds (3.6GHz - 3.9GHz) this does not happen. Any ideas?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> I'm also at 4.5GHz Synced
> Offset+ 0.035
> VCCSA Auto
> Turbo 0.072
> 2400MHz memory
> Vcore 1.42 under max load and 0.800 at idle
> 72C max temp under load on air
> Score 1183 on Cinebench. (I can't seem to achieve a 2500 score)
> 
> I have noticed a problem: I can hear a glitching noise through my audio. Most noticeable when ROG CPU-Z is active. It sounds like clicks or crackling noises. I think it's something to do with the voltages. Has anyone noticed that? On stock speeds (3.6GHz - 3.9GHz) this does not happen. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That chip REALLY needs 1.42V for 4.5GHz? Seems quite high.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well congrats man, those are some slick looking PSU's. 2 x 1200W Leadex Plats would be strictly epeen anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they had 1200's in stock, i'd be pissed at myself for not knowing about your offer in the Leadex thread. 1000W's isn't enough for my build and dual PSU's would take up too much room
> 
> I wanted one of those 1000W's badly months ago before i decided on a Triple 290x setup. It came down to a decision between the Leadex Gold 1300W (EVGA G2) or the Antec HCP-1300 Platinum. I went with the Antec because the extra rails made me feel like my hardware was safer after i blew my last PSU by accidentally swapping G & +V on a wiring harness.
> 
> Of all the tempting things to buy over there, great choice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Aren't those 1000W's the first PSU that was considered Titanium spec before the Titanium Certification was actually complete or sought after?


no everything i read said they "barely passed" plat. but they do better when they are warmer

i heard they might bring one out, but it was just a rumor.

they did have the 80+ gold 1300w ( black ) units
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i went to china and bought them while i was there, unfortunately they dont have the 1200s at the ONLY vender in china so they are the 1000s. i offered to buy them in the leadex thread for people, sorry i didnt know you were interested
> 
> 
> 
> Man, I should have been following that thread! I could have come got one from ya! I got a 1200 watt a bit ago from ocuk and paid hella shipping costs. Now I am afraid I will need moar powar (780ti classified sli) and the 1000w would be a perfect fit I think. Plus it will match my 1200w. Oh well, I was able to get some Alpenföhn fans at least also in the same shipment so it was still worth it. They are simply stunning looking psus with great performance to match. Looks awesome Mega Man!
Click to expand...

sorry ill go back in a year


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> That chip REALLY needs 1.42V for 4.5GHz? Seems quite high.


Yes. It seems high to me also. But it will crash if I lower the Offset+ voltage or the Turbo.
I'm scratching my head, thinking what changes can I make!?

About the clicking, glitching noise. I think it happens when Intel Rapid Storage Technology driver loads up.
Noticeable while listening to soft music and ROG CPU-Z ia active on the background.
This also causes my digital mixer to (FireWire) connection to drop out.
Anyways.. thank you for your help! ;-)


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> That chip REALLY needs 1.42V for 4.5GHz? Seems quite high.


Or I can do:
4.4GHz Synced
Offset+ 0.005
VCCSA Auto
Turbo 0.020
2400MHz memory
Vcore 1.39 under max load and 0.800 at idle
72C max temp under load on air
Score 1150 on Cinebench.

But that annoying clicking sound can still be heard over my sound system and it causes my FireWire audio connection to drop out.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Or I can do:
> 4.4GHz Synced
> Offset+ 0.005
> VCCSA Auto
> Turbo 0.020
> 2400MHz memory
> Vcore 1.39 under max load and 0.800 at idle
> 72C max temp under load on air
> Score 1150 on Cinebench.
> 
> But that annoying clicking sound can still be heard over my sound system and it causes my FireWire audio connection to drop out.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i think 4.4 is reasonable. much better vcore. Although somethnig is not quite right. you dropped 100MHz, but only 30mV at load. either 4.4 is high (too) or 4.5 was too low (doubtful). I'd try lowering 4.4 further. remember, as a rule of thumb, each 100MHz is ~ 60mV as long as you are still on the linear part of the mV/MHz curve. It's a sigmodial curve.

what LLC are you using for both clocks?


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> i think 4.4 is reasonable. much better vcore. Although somethnig is not quite right. you dropped 100MHz, but only 30mV at load. either 4.4 is high (too) or 4.5 was too low (doubtful). I'd try lowering 4.4 further. remember, as a rule of thumb, each 100MHz is ~ 60mV as long as you are still on the linear part of the mV/MHz curve. It's a sigmodial curve.
> 
> what LLC are you using for both clocks?


I understand.
My Load Line Calibration is on Auto.. I previously had it on Regular for the 4.5GHz OC. Regular being 0%.
At 4.3GHz with the same settings I get exactly the same Vcore max 1.39.


----------



## Mega Man

medium is your friend


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> I understand.
> My Load Line Calibration is on Auto.. I previously had it on Regular for the 4.5GHz OC. Regular being 0%.


Do you have the same chipset problems with 1600 MHz ram? If no, and it's only with CPU clocking, then try increased VTT (which kinda is for CPU cache). If lower ram fixes it, look to VCCSA (kinda for mem controller). I'd also look at a fresh OS, and maybe flashing back to your stock BIOS, too.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Do you have the same chipset problems with 1600 MHz ram? If no, and it's only with CPU clocking, then try increased VTT (which kinda is for CPU cache). If lower ram fixes it, look to VCCSA (kinda for mem controller). I'd also look at a fresh OS, and maybe flashing back to your stock BIOS, too.


I to have unusually high volts, at the moment its at 4200mhz @ 1.312v can,t seem to get it any lower tried bios 502 and 602, could a bad psu cause this? May a fresh Win8.1 install help? This board and CPU has recently been replaced with new parts due to code 00 boot loop and red cpu LED being on.


----------



## AstralAnimal

This is the best I can do at the moment for an Offset+ OC on air :

4.5GHz with max Vcore 1.37 under load and 0.800 at idle.
69ºC max temp under load.
Score 1191 on Cinebench R15.
Any suggestions welcomed!!



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Disabled
Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Mode 3
Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Offset
Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.010
VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. Auto
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Auto
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.65
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.65
CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled (Crashes on Auto or Disabled)
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto (Crashes on Enabled or Disabled)
PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Auto (Crashes on Enabled or Disabled)
BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled

CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium
CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Extreme or Auto (Crashes on Standard or Optimized)
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled (Crashes on Auto or Disabled)
Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto

Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.028
CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled

CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled (Crashes on Auto)

Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled



Will see how that works out.. It is better than it was yesterday. Thank you!
*If I wanted to drop the memory frequency down a notch to 1866MHz..
Which latency parameters and voltages should I enter manually ?*
I'm using F3-19200CL10Q-32GBZHD


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> I understand.
> My Load Line Calibration is on Auto.. I previously had it on Regular for the 4.5GHz OC. Regular being 0%.
> At 4.3GHz with the same settings I get exactly the same Vcore max 1.39.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> medium is your friend


High is a friend too







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> This is the best I can do at the moment for an Offset+ OC on air :
> 4.5GHz with max Vcore 1.37 under load and 0.800 at idle.
> 69ºC max temp under load.
> Score 1191 on Cinebench R15.
> Any suggestions welcomed!!


Looks better.

Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Disabled ( change to mode 3)
Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto (or nearer)

there are three instances of spread spectrum that need to be set the same, if you disable all three, it should not crash. Create conflicting instructions.. it will. Also set VSA to 0.995V - 1.05V. At higher than 4.6GHz, LLC medium is tough to work with unless you really raise the low-load vcore. try High (no worries, it's safe). You'll end with the same high-load vcore but balance other load states. I see you lowered ram to 2133. did you tighten the timings from those at 2400?
R15 is only a quick "gross" stability test. You follow up with something else?

You made some improvements!









edit: Astral - what are your memory settings for 2133?, and what does CPUZ report for the SPD? (post a screenie of cpuZ (Alt-prt scrn, open paint, cntrl-V cntrl-S)


----------



## TheGin




----------



## xRuBiCoNx

Hello again









I finally managed to sort out my problem with the random reboots that I had before when I posted in this thread.
The "problem" was the board and got it replaced after my dealer tested it out as well.
After I recieved my RMA board I went straight to test out the CPU and was pleased to not get those dreaded reboots again









BIOS I updated to Raja's Beta one

I ended up with 4,7GHz @ 1,365V with rest in BIOS @ default
For 4,8GHz i had to go to 1,4V and thats too high for my taste for 24/7 use >.>

Now i want to check out the RAM and noticed something fairly odd with it in CPU-Z:










- Quad Channel isnt listed
- Timings are different than set in BIOS

The RAM's are a 16GB Quad Channel Kit from G.Skill (F3-2666C10Q-16GTXD) thats also listed QVL in http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/R4BE_DRAM_QVL.pdf

In BIOS I checked the setting for RAM and they are 10-12-12-31 @ 2T like in the QVL

Any Ideas?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRuBiCoNx*
> 
> Hello again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally managed to sort out my problem with the random reboots that I had before when I posted in this thread.
> The "problem" was the board and got it replaced after my dealer tested it out as well.
> After I recieved my RMA board I went straight to test out the CPU and was pleased to not get those dreaded reboots again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BIOS I updated to Raja's Beta one
> 
> I ended up with 4,7GHz @ 1,365V with rest in BIOS @ default
> For 4,8GHz i had to go to 1,4V and thats too high for my taste for 24/7 use >.>
> 
> Now i want to check out the RAM and noticed something fairly odd with it in CPU-Z:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Quad Channel isnt listed
> - Timings are different than set in BIOS
> 
> The RAM's are a 16GB Quad Channel Kit from G.Skill (F3-2666C10Q-16GTXD) thats also listed QVL in http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/R4BE_DRAM_QVL.pdf
> 
> In BIOS I checked the setting for RAM and they are 10-12-12-31 @ 2T like in the QVL
> 
> Any Ideas?


whoa... never seen that before. I''m sure you reinstalled rog Z?


----------



## FrankPr

Please add me.


----------



## Errorist66

The XMP profile from the Bios page request VCCSA at 1.2v. G.Skill F3-2400C11-8GZM X 4.

@Jpmboy Where in heaven is the 3rd instance of Spread spectrum? I remember seeing it somewhere but now it's hiding from me.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> The XMP profile from the Bios page request VCCSA at 1.2v. G.Skill F3-2400C11-8GZM X 4.
> 
> @Jpmboy Where in heaven is the 3rd instance of Spread spectrum? I remember seeing it somewhere but now it's hiding from me.


I thik it's under CPU on the bios page with the PCIE settings and "on-board" stuff (like wifi and bluetooth). would have to look later to be sure, but it's there.









edit: it's under DigiPower - cpu spreadspectrum


----------



## xRuBiCoNx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> whoa... never seen that before. I''m sure you reinstalled rog Z?


Ofc







i even redownloaded the Installerfile









I suspect thats just some weired Display glitch :s

Does any one else have this issue or this ram







?

ATM i am at the 100 strap and RAM @ 2400

What way for testing the Mem Controler would you go sincxe i suspect that the CPU will limit and not the sticks?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xRuBiCoNx*
> 
> Ofc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i even redownloaded the Installerfile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect thats just some weired Display glitch :s
> Does any one else have this issue or this ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> ATM i am at the 100 strap and RAM @ 2400
> What way for testing the Mem Controler would you go sincxe i suspect that the CPU will limit and not the sticks?


there are several ways to test the ram settings... but I really do not know how to directly test the IMC (memory controller). Cadaveca?


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I thik it's under CPU on the bios page with the PCIE settings and "on-board" stuff (like wifi and bluetooth). would have to look later to be sure, but it's there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: it's under DigiPower - cpu spreadspectrum


thanks.









Also beware when using 2400 RAM on the 100 strap. re:

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46486-X79-BIOS-bug-might-affect-all-x79-boards

On a cold boot. I always go to the bios, set multi to 38, save, apply. bios again. multy to 45, ram at 2133, save/apply. Bios again, set ram back to 2400 and save. Then the speed is good. Otherwise I get 43GB/sec writes in Aida instead of 66GB/sec and the latency jumps to 68ns instead of 54.4ns


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> The XMP profile from the Bios page request VCCSA at 1.2v. G.Skill F3-2400C11-8GZM X 4.
> 
> @Jpmboy Where in heaven is the 3rd instance of Spread spectrum? I remember seeing it somewhere but now it's hiding from me.


It's under Digi+. But It does not show unless CPU Current Capability is in Auto. I think when CCC is selected it bypasses CPU Power Phase Control and Spread spectrum does not show. So if you have CPU Power Phase Control on Extreme, like I have now, the 3rd Spread parameter is invisible.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also beware when using 2400 RAM on the 100 strap. re:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46486-X79-BIOS-bug-might-affect-all-x79-boards
> 
> On a cold boot. I always go to the bios, set multi to 38, save, apply. bios again. multy to 45, ram at 2133, save/apply. Bios again, set ram back to 2400 and save. Then the speed is good. Otherwise I get 43GB/sec writes in Aida instead of 66GB/sec and the latency jumps to 68ns instead of 54.4ns


Thanks for pointing that out. oh yeah - I have have this problem. Write speed at 2400 drops to 43K vs mid 60K. A real pia to get back to normal. I basically power off the board and do a cold boot. Usually fixes it. I tend to run 2200 0r 2333 and tighter timings - better over band width.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> there are three instances of spread spectrum that need to be set the same, if you disable all three, it should not crash. Create conflicting instructions.. it will. Also set VSA to 0.995V - 1.05V. At higher than 4.6GHz, LLC medium is tough to work with unless you really raise the low-load vcore. try High (no worries, it's safe). You'll end with the same high-load vcore but balance other load states. I see you lowered ram to 2133. did you tighten the timings from those at 2400?
> R15 is only a quick "gross" stability test. You follow up with something else?
> 
> You made some improvements!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: Astral - what are your memory settings for 2133?, and what does CPUZ report for the SPD? (post a screenie of cpuZ (Alt-prt scrn, open paint, cntrl-V cntrl-S)


No point running LLC on high. This causes my Vcore to hit a max of 1.39V and my Cinebench scores drop. That's what I get atm.
Running VTT from 0.993; 1.025; 1.125; 1.1750 causes lock ups for me atm so I left it in Auto.
I'm not sure how I can tighten the timings for my 2133MHz. Could you give me a quick 101 ?
Here are my current CPU-Z screens:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Thanks for pointing that out. oh yeah - I have have this problem. Write speed at 2400 drops to 43K vs mid 60K. A real pia to get back to normal. I basically power off the board and do a cold boot. Usually fixes it. I tend to run 2200 0r 2333 and tighter timings - better over band width.


Would I have this problem running it at 2133MHz on a 100MHz strap ??


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Would I have this problem running it at 2133MHz on a 100MHz strap ??


As far as I know it's only affecting 100bclk and 2400 memory.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> This is the best I can do at the moment for an Offset+ OC on air :
> 
> 4.5GHz with max Vcore 1.37 under load and 0.800 at idle.
> 69ºC max temp under load.
> Score 1191 on Cinebench R15.
> Any suggestions welcomed!!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
> CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
> Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Disabled
> Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Mode 3
> Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Offset
> Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.010
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. Auto
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Auto
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.65
> DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.65
> CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
> PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled (Crashes on Auto or Disabled)
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto (Crashes on Enabled or Disabled)
> PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Auto (Crashes on Enabled or Disabled)
> BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> 
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium
> CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
> Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Extreme or Auto (Crashes on Standard or Optimized)
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled (Crashes on Auto or Disabled)
> Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
> VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
> CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
> DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
> DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100%
> DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard
> PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> 
> Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.028
> CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
> Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
> Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled
> 
> CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled (Crashes on Auto)
> 
> Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled
> 
> 
> 
> Will see how that works out.. It is better than it was yesterday. Thank you!
> *If I wanted to drop the memory frequency down a notch to 1866MHz..
> Which latency parameters and voltages should I enter manually ?*
> I'm using F3-19200CL10Q-32GBZHD


I THINK I NEED TO SIT BACK AND SET UP A REPLY OF CHANGES AS THERE IS QUITE A LOT OF THINGS IN THIS BIOS THAT NEEDS LOOKING AT!!

Because as i see it at its present settings that's why your not able to lower your Vcore and progress any further than you are @ present!



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Auto - 100
ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled - ENABLED
EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Disabled
Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Mode 3 - 2
Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Offset - MANUAL
Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; +
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.010 - 1.35V POSSIBLE
VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. Auto - 1.20v
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto - 1.10v
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Auto - 1.150v
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Auto - Manual.
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.65
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.65
CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto - 1.1V
Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto - 0.75000v to 0.80000v
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto - 0.75000v to 0.80000v
CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled (Crashes on Auto or Disabled)
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto (Crashes on Enabled or Disabled) - Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Auto (Crashes on Enabled or Disabled) - Disabled
BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled

CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium - HIGH
CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto - 180%
CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto - MANUAL SET TO 350
VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Extreme or Auto (Crashes on Standard or Optimized)
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled (Crashes on Auto or Disabled) - DISABLED
Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100% - 120%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100% - 120%
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard - OPTIMIZED
DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 100% - 120%
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Standard - OPTIMIZED
PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto

Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled - DISABLED
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto - ENABLED
Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto - 250
Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...Auto - 300
Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.028
CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled

CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled (Crashes on Auto) DISABLED

Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled



DISABLED

OK try these and see how you get on, these should help you to lower your Vcore if you decide to use Manual Vcore at first before you try OFFSET!!!

Adjust only the Vcore and do not change any of the other settings as this will help you to be 100% stable!!

These are my settings that i have run here for months so far no problems at all, you can try these at your own risk, but you should be fine and OK!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I THINK I NEED TO SIT BACK AND SET UP A REPLY OF CHANGES AS THERE IS QUITE A LOT OF THINGS IN THIS BIOS THAT NEEDS LOOKING AT!!
> 
> Because as i see it at its present settings that's why your not able to lower your Vcore and progress any further than you are @ present!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
> CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 100
> ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
> Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. ENABLED
> EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Disabled
> Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Mode 3 - 2
> Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. MANUAL
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.010 - 1.35V POSSIBLE
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. 1.20v
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.10v
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... 1.150v
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Manual.
> DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.65
> DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.65
> CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
> PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.1V
> Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.75000v to 0.80000v
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.75000v to 0.80000v
> CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
> PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Disabled
> BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> 
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. HIGH
> CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 180%
> CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 350
> VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
> Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED
> Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
> VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
> CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
> DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
> DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
> DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
> PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> 
> Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; ENABLED
> Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 250
> Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...300
> Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.028
> CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
> Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
> Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled
> 
> CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. DISABLED
> 
> Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. DISABLED
> 
> 
> 
> OK try these and see how you get on, these should help you to lower your Vcore if you decide to use Manual Vcore at first before you try OFFSET!!!
> Adjust only the Vcore and do not change any of the other settings as this will help you to be 100% stable!!
> These are my settings that i have run here for months so far no problems at all, you can try these at your own risk, but you should be fine and OK!
> Regards,AJ.


Ok. Thank you AJ. I have tried your suggested settings. I get a max load Vcore of 1.36.
Also. something I've noticed. I run HD audio not via mini jack from the motherboard but through FireWire connection straight into a mixer. This connection is VERY sensitive and if there is any sort of "interruptions" the audio signal will drop out. This happens with Offset overclocking. Now that I'm running a Fixed OC I'm no longer experiencing dropouts of such. This may be helpful to others running FireWire.


----------



## Jpmboy

vsa is *1.15V* in ajay's reply. not 1.5V


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> vsa is *1.15V* in ajay's reply. not 1.5V


Yes.. You are right. My mistake.

How do I set up Prime95 to run stability tests ??


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Yes.. You are right. My mistake.
> 
> How do I set up Prime95 to run stability tests ??


download the latest version (w/ AVX). make sure error and round-off checking are enabled, then:


12288 ram if you have 16GB.

you might also want to read thru this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1186959/rampage-iv-extreme-uefi-guide-for-overclocking/0_20


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> download the latest version (w/ AVX). make sure error and round-off checking are enabled, then:
> 
> 
> 12288 ram if you have 16GB.
> 
> you might also want to read thru this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1186959/rampage-iv-extreme-uefi-guide-for-overclocking/0_20


I'm using 32Gig of RAM. So, should I type in 24576 in the Memory To Use box ??
Thanx for the link by the way. It's very informative.


----------



## Jpmboy

Yes, 24576 in ram


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Ok. Thank you AJ. I have tried your suggested settings. I get a max load Vcore of 1.36.
> Also. something I've noticed. I run HD audio not via mini jack from the motherboard but through FireWire connection straight into a mixer. This connection is VERY sensitive and if there is any sort of "interruptions" the audio signal will drop out. This happens with Offset overclocking. Now that I'm running a Fixed OC I'm no longer experiencing dropouts of such. This may be helpful to others running FireWire.


You should by testing lower your Vcore to about the 1.250v to 1.275v range if you have a decent CPU!!!

Keep lowering by 0.05v at a time until it crashes or will not Boot into Windows, after that just raise it by the same amount until you hit the SWEET SPOT!
















AJ.


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Last night I had a system freeze... I think it's my CPU overclock (has to be since my previous 4.4GHz OC passed 24hr P95). Only tested 3hrs in P95, guess it wasn't stable. Full load vcore was around 1.35 for 4.5GHz. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 100
ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 2133 MHz
Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. ENABLED
EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Disabled
Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Auto
Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. OFFSET
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.005
VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. 1.15v
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... 1.13v
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Manual.
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.66
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.66
CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.9v
PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto

CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium
CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................................................. Optimized
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED
Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto

Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; ENABLED
Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.05
CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled

CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.Auto

Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled

At work so I'm not 100% sure on all these settings (going by memory) but I think it's accurate.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clairvoyant129*
> 
> Last night I had a system freeze... I think it's my CPU overclock. Only tested 3hrs in P95, guess it wasn't stable. Full load vcore was around 1.35 for 4.5GHz. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
> CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 100
> ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled $ enabled
> DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
> Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. ENABLED $disabled
> EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Disabled
> Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Auto $mode 3
> Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. OFFSET
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.005
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. 1.15v
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... 1.13v
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Manual.
> DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.66
> DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.66
> CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.9v $auto
> PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> 
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium
> CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120% $auto =140%
> CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
> Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................................................. Optimized $auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED
> Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120% $auto - you're only at 4.5GHZ
> VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
> CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120% $110
> DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
> DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120% $110
> DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
> PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> 
> Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; ENABLED
> Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.06
> CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
> Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
> Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled $disable unless you are using a VM
> 
> CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.Auto
> 
> Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled
> 
> At work so I'm not 100% sure on all these settings (going by memory) but I think it's accurate
> 
> 
> .


freeze with no BSOD code? If ther eis a bsod code or file, let me know, Can you also check event viewer for the time stamp and the event trap report? Recommended changes in your list are following a "$"


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clairvoyant129*
> 
> At work so I'm not 100% sure on all these settings (going by memory) but I think it's accurate.


Lower PLL voltage, enable PLL overvoltage, set LLC to high, increase CPU current capability to 140% minimum.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clairvoyant129*
> 
> Last night I had a system freeze... I think it's my CPU overclock (has to be since my previous 4.4GHz OC passed 24hr P95). Only tested 3hrs in P95, guess it wasn't stable. Full load vcore was around 1.35 for 4.5GHz. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
> CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 100
> ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
> Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 2133 MHz
> Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. ENABLED
> EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Disabled
> Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Auto
> Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. OFFSET
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.005
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. 1.15v
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... 1.13v
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Manual.
> DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.66
> DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.66
> CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.9v
> PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> 
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Medium
> CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
> CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
> Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................................................. Optimized
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED
> Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
> VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
> CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
> DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
> DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
> DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
> PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> 
> Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; ENABLED
> Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...Auto
> Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.05
> CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
> Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
> Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled
> 
> CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.Auto
> 
> Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled
> 
> At work so I'm not 100% sure on all these settings (going by memory) but I think it's accurate.


Just look @ the one i have done for the other member and try those settings i have posted!!

Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 100
ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 45
Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. ENABLED
EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Disabled
Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Mode 3 - 2
Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. MANUAL
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.010 - 1.35V POSSIBLE
VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. 1.20v
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.10v
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... 1.150v
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Manual.
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.65
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.65
CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. Auto
PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.1V
Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.75000v to 0.80000v
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.75000v to 0.80000v
CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Disabled
BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled

CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. HIGH
CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 180%
CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 350
VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED
Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto

Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; ENABLED
Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 250
Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...300
Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.028
CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled

CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. DISABLED

Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. DISABLED

Good Luck!!

AJ.


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Will try thanks!


----------



## AstralAnimal

Question:
Are there any dangers associated with Disabling Anti Surge Support ?
What if I experience a current surge through my house mains during a thunder storm ?
Or is Anti Surge Support something completely different ?


----------



## stebbiro

I'm not sure what Asus' idea for it is.

Most power companies adjust their power output a couple hundred times a day. Each of these could be classified as a surge. The Anti Surge Function may offer some protection from that type of power flux.

Lightning on the other hand... Well I doubt anything on a mb will be much armor from that. That would require Transtector or a comparable device.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stebbiro*
> 
> I'm not sure what Asus' idea for it is.
> 
> Most power companies adjust their power output a couple hundred times a day. Each of these could be classified as a surge. The Anti Surge Function may offer some protection from that type of power flux.
> 
> Lightning on the other hand... Well I doubt anything on a mb will be much armor from that. That would require Transtector or a comparable device.


your psu would be the only safety agains that kind of a surge, most all quality psus have built in surge protection. i think the intel one is for surges @ either rapid high amp useage ( going from low cpu useage to high ) or vise versa


----------



## Errorist66

which Vcore voltage is closer to reality? CPU-Z /Aida64 monitoring? AIsuite 3? CPUIS HWMonitor?

Under prime, I get:
CPU-Z Core VoltagE: 1.360v
AIDA: 1.360v
AISuiteIII: 1.372v
HWMonitor VID: 1.356v ( Vcore is also at 1.36v)

I have a 20$ digital meeter that I don't trust anywhere near my R4BE..


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> which Vcore voltage is closer to reality? CPU-Z /Aida64 monitoring? AIsuite 3? CPUIS HWMonitor?
> 
> Under prime, I get:
> CPU-Z Core VoltagE: 1.360v
> AIDA: 1.360v
> AISuiteIII: 1.372v
> HWMonitor VID: 1.356v
> 
> I have a 20$ digital meeter that I don't trust anywhere near my R4BE..


That's all you really need is a $20 meter. No software is exact for me, measure points are different, but I dunno how accurate they are either, since they are a fair distance from the CPU anyway. AI Suite should be the closest, you'd think, because it's made by ASUS. AIDA by default doesn't read often enough for it to be 100% either.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Question:
> Are there any dangers associated with Disabling Anti Surge Support ?
> What if I experience a current surge through my house mains during a thunder storm ?
> Or is Anti Surge Support something completely different ?


It's for surges in the board itself. When pushing hard for benching, you'll want to disable it. Has been a feature of ASUS boards for a long time, actually.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> there are several ways to test the ram settings... but I really do not know how to directly test the IMC (memory controller). Cadaveca?


I test IMC by pushing the various memory kits I have, and playing with VCCSA. But, since memory training on warm boot is different than on cold boot, it's best to do a full shutdown and then boot up from "cold" when working on memory clocking for 24/7 use.


----------



## Errorist66

Thanks @cadaveca.

I tried AJ's settings but the Rampage Tweak in mode 2 doesn't post, it tries and turns off. I have a 4930K so... idk Everything else is the same but I still get 1.372v vcore (1.36v in cpu-z). I was able to lower Additional Turbo Voltage to 0.024 from 0.028 but at 0.020 I get some weird hang on login. Something is using 20% cpu without showing up in task manager.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Thanks @cadaveca.
> 
> I tried AJ's settings but the Rampage Tweak in mode 2 doesn't post, it tries and turns off. I have a 4930K so... idk Everything else is the same but I still get 1.372v vcore (1.36v in cpu-z). I was able to lower Additional Turbo Voltage to 0.024 from 0.028 but at 0.020 I get some weird hang on login. Something is using 20% cpu without showing up in task manager.


I concur, the Rampage Tweak does not boot up on Mode 2. But it works well with either Auto or Mode 3.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Thanks @cadaveca.
> 
> I tried AJ's settings but the Rampage Tweak in mode 2 doesn't post, it tries and turns off. I have a 4930K so... idk Everything else is the same but I still get 1.372v vcore (1.36v in cpu-z). I was able to lower Additional Turbo Voltage to 0.024 from 0.028 but at 0.020 I get some weird hang on login. Something is using 20% cpu without showing up in task manager.


failed driver loading, likely VGA, and that is a normal thing to happen when system isn't fully stable (ie, needs moar vcoar







). I use Mode3, and that's what ASUS seems to recommend for IVB-E, but I might have misunderstood.


----------



## Mega Man

w000t all waterblocks ordered ( 4x swiftech komodo 290x blocks and board block ) all rads ordered ( 45mm 480, 60mm 480, just need 2x 480 monstas ! oos atm but i will have them as soon as they come in )

really all i need now are fans but i got a feeling it is a long time off. for what i want. this is gonna be epc 20x 120mm rad space should be enough to cool 290xs in quadfire and a 3930x/49xx right ????

all i need to do is make a bracket for my aquaeros ! mod my bracket for my flex bay to fit a alphacool rad, make pump mounting bracket, and only thing i need to order is ~ 1k-1.5k of sleeving stuffs ( which will cover all my pcs ) ! gonna sleeve this in white/gray/black, think it will look awesome... come to think of it i forgot my sata cables ( will also have custom length sata cables )


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> w000t all waterblocks ordered ( 4x swiftech komodo 290x blocks and board block ) all rads ordered ( 45mm 480, 60mm 480, just need 2x 480 monstas ! oos atm but i will have them as soon as they come in )
> 
> really all i need now are fans but i got a feeling it is a long time off. for what i want. this is gonna be epc 20x 120mm rad space should be enough to cool 290xs in quadfire and a 3930x/49xx right ????
> 
> all i need to do is make a bracket for my aquaeros ! mod my bracket for my flex bay to fit a alphacool rad, make pump mounting bracket, and only thing i need to order is ~ 1k-1.5k of sleeving stuffs ( which will cover all my pcs ) ! gonna sleeve this in white/gray/black, think it will look awesome... come to think of it i forgot my sata cables ( will also have custom length sata cables )


White/gray/black sleeves would look deep. Will you do an acrylic loop with while\milk coloring? I also think the copper tubes on the loop look awesome! Have fun, your gonna be busy.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> I concur, the Rampage Tweak does not boot up on Mode 2. But it works well with either Auto or Mode 3.


The Settings i posted should work with most set ups, but a lot depends on how much RAM and what MAKE someone is using, the CPU you have and your Motherboard as well!

Myself i only run 4 x 4 = 16 GB of Ram here, where as someone else using 32 GB or 64 GB might struggle with the RAMPAGE TWEAK and other settings as well.

It was never 100% to work with every ones PC, you need to adjust or Tweak the settings to help yourselves!

If i did not work @ 4.5 or 45 then try 4.4 or 44 Overclocking has never been a exact science anyway lol!!!

Also i find not using the XMP RAM PROFILES helps me, i just enter my timings by hand, but i am OLD SCHOOL!!

But i am really glad that its working to help the good Members on this great site of ours.

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> The Settings i posted should work with most set ups, but a lot depends on how much RAM and what MAKE someone is using, the CPU you have and your Motherboard as well!
> 
> Myself i only run 4 x 4 = 16 GB of Ram here, where as someone else using 32 GB or 64 GB might struggle with the RAMPAGE TWEAK and other settings as well.
> 
> It was never 100% to work with every ones PC, you need to adjust or Tweak the settings to help yourselves!
> 
> If i did not work @ 4.5 or 45 then try 4.4 or 44 Overclocking has never been a exact science anyway lol!!!
> 
> Also i find not using the XMP RAM PROFILES helps me, i just enter my timings by hand, but i am OLD SCHOOL!!
> 
> But i am really glad that its working to help the good Members on this great site of ours.
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


Thank you very much AJ. I seem to be stable atm with the setting you've provided. So I'm very happy. Cheers!


----------



## Ajay57

No problem that's why i like being here on this site!!









Nice to hear that it also cured your funny audio problem when you switched to Manual Vcore my friend!!









AJ.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> failed driver loading, likely VGA, and that is a normal thing to happen when system isn't fully stable (ie, needs moar vcoar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I use Mode3, and that's what ASUS seems to recommend for IVB-E, but I might have misunderstood.


Doesn't even post. So it is way before the OS start to load.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> which Vcore voltage is closer to reality? CPU-Z /Aida64 monitoring? AIsuite 3? CPUIS HWMonitor?
> 
> Under prime, I get:
> CPU-Z Core VoltagE: 1.360v
> AIDA: 1.360v
> AISuiteIII: 1.372v
> HWMonitor VID: 1.356v ( Vcore is also at 1.36v)
> 
> I have a 20$ digital meeter that I don't trust anywhere near my R4BE..


with my vcore fixed at 1.350V in bios, bios says 1.36, cpuZ reads 1.36V and the mobo read points are 1.362V. very close! Cadaveca is correct, the resistance in the traces from the vcore caps to the read points affects the accuracy when reading off the topside of the mobo, maybe 3-4mV only tho.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> with my vcore fixed at 1.350V in bios, bios says 1.36, cpuZ reads 1.36V and the mobo read points are 1.362V. very close! Cadaveca is correct, the resistance in the traces from the vcore caps to the read points affects the accuracy when reading off the topside of the mobo, maybe 3-4mV only tho.


Thanks. My system is in a case vs a test bench so it's hard to even get close to the test points.

I'm running VCore offset at 0.010v and turbo extra volt at .028v. Cvore on idle is at 1.36v, When I apply load ( LLC at High) it makes my vCore 1.388 then vdrop at ~1.376v at 45 multi, bclk 100. Is this a good voltage/oc for 24/7 or should I back down the multi?

I have full XSPC WaterBlock on the R4BE.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Thanks. My system is in a case vs a test bench so it's hard to even get close to the test points.
> 
> I'm running VCore offset at 0.010v and turbo extra volt at .028v. *Cvore on idle is at 1.36v*, When I apply load ( LLC at High) it makes my vCore 1.388 then vdrop at ~1.376v at 45 multi, bclk 100. Is this a good voltage/oc for 24/7 or should I back down the multi?
> 
> I have full XSPC WaterBlock on the R4BE.


I think that's a typo for your idle vcore? should be like 0.900V or something. You can probably run 1.376 all day for years. But, at 45x, do you really need LLC high? How are you testing stability? Can you drop it to medium and add 8-16mV to turbo? I've only had 2 4930Ks (one 4960X) ; 1.376- 1.388 seems quite high for 4.5GHz. Whats you VSA at? Sometimes when VSA is too low (VTT too), they pull power from the other rails. Like for the R4E, as a rule of thumb =< 600mV diff between VTT and VDIMM, and =< 300mV between vsa and vcore.


----------



## Kimir

You should Idle at something like 0.84v, 1.36v is on usual load.
I've got the same thing on my sandy, 1.36v most of the time and goes to 1.376v sometimes and only bump up to 1.384v on Prime only.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Doesn't even post. So it is way before the OS start to load.


I was referring to the other part of your post.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I think that's a typo for your idle vcore? should be like 0.900V or something. You can probably run 1.376 all day for years. But, at 45x, do you really need LLC high? How are you testing stability? Can you drop it to medium and add 8-16mV to turbo? I've only had 2 4930Ks (one 4960X) ; 1.376- 1.388 seems quite high for 4.5GHz. Whats you VSA at? Sometimes when VSA is too low (VTT too), they pull power from the other rails. Like for the R4E, as a rule of thumb =< 600mV diff between VTT and VDIMM, and =< 300mV between vsa and vcore.


The suggesting setting from AJ disable speedstep so multi is always 45. that must be why vcore was stuck at 1.6.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I was referring to the other part of your post.


Sorry, yes the weird hang on starting stuff after login. If I start task manager I see request for elevated priviledge without the UI showing up. killing that process resumes the startup. indeed that's where I have to add a bit more voltage. That's with rampage tweak in mode 3 as mode 2 doesn't work.


----------



## MNiceGuy

Hey guys,

I have my Rampage IV Black installed and everything for the most part seems to be going well. I'm still running everything at stock+XMP until I get some more time to really play with this thing.

There were a couple hiccups so far and while I think I might have it pinned down, I'd appreciate a second opinion.

I've had two BSODs so far. One was preceded by a black screen in Arkham Origins which I believe is known. The second was downloading a game off steam via the built-in wireless. I did a crash dump analysis and both BSODs referenced nvdklm.sys which we all know as the Nvidia driver (I have two 780 Ti).

If anything, this is likely a display driver crash correct? Motherboard is innocent?

Thanks


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have my Rampage IV Black installed and everything for the most part seems to be going well. I'm still running everything at stock+XMP until I get some more time to really play with this thing.
> 
> There were a couple hiccups so far and while I think I might have it pinned down, I'd appreciate a second opinion.
> 
> I've had two BSODs so far. One was preceded by a black screen in Arkham Origins which I believe is known. The second was downloading a game off steam via the built-in wireless. I did a crash dump analysis and both BSODs referenced nvdklm.sys which we all know as the Nvidia driver (I have two 780 Ti).
> 
> If anything, this is likely a display driver crash correct? Motherboard is innocent?
> 
> Thanks


Video cards overclocked? Which driver version are you using?


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clairvoyant129*
> 
> Video cards overclocked? Which driver version are you using?


Reference EVGA GTX 780 Ti SLI - not overclocked
335.23 WHQL Driver


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Reference EVGA GTX 780 Ti SLI - not overclocked
> 335.23 WHQL Driver


That driver is junky, IMHO. Ram not quite stable, but really really close, will cause GPU driver to crash in my experience lately, and this driver seems a wee bit more sensitive. new BETA drivers seem a bit worse for it, too. Not sure why/how/whatever.


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That driver is junky, IMHO. Ram not quite stable, but really really close, will cause GPU driver to crash in my experience lately, and this driver seems a wee bit more sensitive. new BETA drivers seem a bit worse for it, too. Not sure why/how/whatever.


Right now I'm running a GSkill 4x4 1866 kit from the Black's QVL.

Prime95 Blend (max mem) stable for 18 hours
IBT Maximum 30 passes.

Could it still be the memory?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Right now I'm running a GSkill 4x4 1866 kit from the Black's QVL.
> 
> Prime95 Blend (max mem) stable for 18 hours
> IBT Maximum 30 passes.
> 
> Could it still be the memory?


What's your VCCSA?

Does that memory have a profile under 1866?

I think 1866 is bugged, myself, and it's not just this board.

But you know.. I dunno for sure what the story is...I do know that both 1866 divider and 2400 divider seem to have issues, and with my CPUs, 1866 is WORSE than 2400, even requiring more voltage for stability than 2400 does. These problems have different driver crashes, etc, which are similar to driver crashes when BCLK is pushed, but not the same.. just similar. So much so that I want to say 1600 and 2133 dividers are the only ones we should bother with. 2400 is max that works, period..so it not working perfectly with all CPUs is normal with Intel chips over nearly a decade. Likewise, 1866 is max supported, and usually max supported requires not filling all slots, or similar...

I have not been able to find an actual cause for these problems, or a fix. It is just possible that it's the driver itself being a pain, but like mentioned above by Errorist66, VGA driver crashes are kind of normal with CPU needing just a wee bit more voltage. We also have the parasitic nature of the platform itself to pull power from other sections of the chip, making this a bit harder to diagnose, too.

I'd not blame the memory specifically myself... I'd look at some setting for memory, VCCSA, vCPU, etc, maybe CPU/VCCSA current settings.

See, long-term loading is one thing, but I find that most crashes happen during transitions from load to idle or vice-versa. I do also know that the wireless is really sensitive...so you could also look at VTT, too, since my problems with WiFi only occur with BCLK and 1866 divider.

I know this is all kind of vague, so my apologies, but I hope my experiences help you suss out what the problem really is.


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> What's your VCCSA?
> 
> Does that memory have a profile under 1866?
> 
> I think 1866 is bugged, myself, and it's not just this board.
> 
> But you know.. I dunno for sure what the story is...I do know that both 1866 divider and 2400 divider seem to have issues, and with my CPUs, 1866 is WORSE than 2400, even requiring more voltage for stability than 2400 does. These problems have different driver crashes, etc, which are similar to driver crashes when BCLK is pushed, but not the same.. just similar. So much so that I want to say 1600 and 2133 dividers are the only ones we should bother with. 2400 is max that works, period..so it not working perfectly with all CPUs is normal with Intel chips over nearly a decade. Likewise, 1866 is max supported, and usually max supported requires not filling all slots, or similar...
> 
> I have not been able to find an actual cause for these problems, or a fix. It is just possible that it's the driver itself being a pain, but like mentioned above by Errorist66, VGA driver crashes are kind of normal with CPU needing just a wee bit more voltage. We also have the parasitic nature of the platform itself to pull power from other sections of the chip, making this a bit harder to diagnose, too.
> 
> I'd not blame the memory specifically myself... I'd look at some setting for memory, VCCSA, vCPU, etc, maybe CPU/VCCSA current settings.
> 
> See, long-term loading is one thing, but I find that most crashes happen during transitions from load to idle or vice-versa. I do also know that the wireless is really sensitive...so you could also look at VTT, too, since my problems with WiFi only occur with BCLK and 1866 divider.
> 
> I know this is all kind of vague, so my apologies, but I hope my experiences help you suss out what the problem really is.


Thanks for all the info!

Right now I think my VCCSA is at 0.94v. Everything is bone stock at the moment with the exception of the XMP profile which does indeed have an 1866 profile (it is the memory's rated speed). Would I be able to pass all that stability testing if I had a memory setting that wasn't quite up to snuff? Not doubting your knowledge - just trying to understand.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Thanks for all the info!
> 
> Right now I think my VCCSA is at 0.94v. Everything is bone stock at the moment with the exception of the XMP profile which does indeed have an 1866 profile (it is the memory's rated speed). Would I be able to pass all that stability testing if I had a memory setting that wasn't quite up to snuff? Not doubting your knowledge - just trying to understand.


Well, it seems that ASUS has spent a fair bit of time letting XMP profiles do their thing, something new in the past 8 months or so.

So, ther ecould be some timing in XMP profile that is "wrong" for the board's design, so you can try without enabling XMP, and just set the primary four timings manually.

And yeah, depending on how memory is loaded....it could be a single setting, but likely to be in tertiary timings than anywhere else.

You could try without enabling XMP or manual adjust at all, and use the JEDEC profile, see if that provides stability.

I've been pounding away at my CPUs and this board for MOTNHS now working on a OC guide, changing settings one-by-one, seeing what works with my config and what doesn't..trying single-card up to quad-SLI/Crossfire, different OSes, etc... I feel this platform in and of itself just has some issues that aren't ASUS' fault.

Win8/8.1 and this board are only mild friends, too, when it comes to Wi-Fi. Win7 works much better.

try boost VCCSA up a bit, or maybe set VCCSA loadline to extreme.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> What's your VCCSA?
> 
> Does that memory have a profile under 1866?
> 
> I think 1866 is bugged, myself, and it's not just this board.
> 
> But you know.. I dunno for sure what the story is...I do know that both 1866 divider and 2400 divider seem to have issues, and with my CPUs, 1866 is WORSE than 2400, even requiring more voltage for stability than 2400 does. These problems have different driver crashes, etc, which are similar to driver crashes when BCLK is pushed, but not the same.. just similar. So much so that I want to say 1600 and 2133 dividers are the only ones we should bother with. 2400 is max that works, period..so it not working perfectly with all CPUs is normal with Intel chips over nearly a decade. Likewise, 1866 is max supported, and usually max supported requires not filling all slots, or similar...
> 
> I have not been able to find an actual cause for these problems, or a fix. It is just possible that it's the driver itself being a pain, but like mentioned above by Errorist66, VGA driver crashes are kind of normal with CPU needing just a wee bit more voltage. We also have the parasitic nature of the platform itself to pull power from other sections of the chip, making this a bit harder to diagnose, too.
> 
> I'd not blame the memory specifically myself... I'd look at some setting for memory, VCCSA, vCPU, etc, maybe CPU/VCCSA current settings.
> 
> See, long-term loading is one thing, but I find that most crashes happen during transitions from load to idle or vice-versa. I do also know that the wireless is really sensitive...so you could also look at VTT, too, since my problems with WiFi only occur with BCLK and 1866 divider.
> 
> I know this is all kind of vague, so my apologies, but I hope my experiences help you suss out what the problem really is.


Well CADAVECA with all the reading i have done on this Mobo + 4930K and 4960X "2133 Mhz" is the Ram Sweet spot, also with a good set of 2133 you can OC them to 2400 Mhz!!

So long as you do this by hand and not just rely on the XMP PROFILES which in some cases depending on the Ram, will not work 100%!!

Also the Amount of Ram makes a big Difference as well 4 x 2 = 8 GB or 4 x 4 = 16 GB will OC better to some degree than 32 GB or 64 GB as these tend to increase strain on the IMC!

But just do not take my word for it its just the trial and error Overclocking i have done myself here like you.

Overtime you get to find out what works well enough and what is a complete waste of time!

But from what i read and see on this thread, some of the Overclocks are only Half way done or incomplete, so the overall results will be poor to say the least!

1, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907

The above kindly explains the relationship between your RAM the Bclk also the STRAPS as well, worth a good read!

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## MNiceGuy

This might be a slightly dumb question and hopefully I am wording this well enough:

Are boards of this caliber just a little more 'finicky' versus the lower end counterparts?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> This might be a slightly dumb question and hopefully I am wording this well enough:
> 
> Are boards of this caliber just a little more 'finicky' versus the lower end counterparts?


I wish that was the case.

But I have found similar problems (except the WiFi thing) on quite a few boards. ASRock Fatal1ty Champion was really really good. This board is better. Others...kinda poopy for OC.

Really, I feel the problem isn't the board at all..it's the CPU. SB-E in general is a lot more forgiving. I have had 3x 3960X and 3x 4960X for months at atime...4960X is more finicky.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Well CADAVECA with all the reading i have done on this Mobo + 4930K and 4960X "2133 Mhz" is the Ram Sweet spot, also with a good set of 2133 you can OC them to 2400 Mhz!!
> 
> So long as you do this by hand and not just rely on the XMP PROFILES which in some cases depending on the Ram, will not work 100%!!
> 
> Also the Amount of Ram makes a big Difference as well 4 x 2 = 8 GB or 4 x 4 = 16 GB will OC better to some degree than 32 GB or 64 GB as these tend to increase strain on the IMC!
> 
> But just do not take my word for it its just the trial and error Overclocking i have done myself here like you.
> 
> Overtime you get to find out what works well enough and what is a complete waste of time!
> 
> But from what i read and see on this thread, some of the Overclocks are only Half way done or incomplete, so the overall results will be poor to say the least!
> 
> 1, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907
> 
> The above kindly explains the relationship between your RAM the Bclk also the STRAPS as well, worth a good read!
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


I agree with your sentiments 100%. But I did not find any useful info in that thread, honestly. Not that I have anything against 8-pack... I simply prefer to not gather info from those that post OCs for benches, since benching and 24/7 is far different. I need more advanced info than what's in that thread.


----------



## Ajay57

For the average guy, then i hope it will help to point them in the right direction!!

For someone like yourself then that's fine and dandy, and i fully understand that you are on a different level.

Thanks for the help and pointers you give as at times it also helps me here!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

MNiceGuy - sometimes the last to fail in a BSOD is not the cause. If you have "bluescreenviewer" what were the two preceding routines cited? Granted, NV drivers cause many problems, but it may only be the victim of a fault elsewhere.


----------



## Ajay57

JPM i am using 337.50 Beta Nvidia Drivers here over the last month, looks to be a big improvement over the previous releases, fixed quite a few errors now!!

BF4 and other games runs much more smoothly, sorry for being off topic here!!

Yeah i still feel everyone should install the MOLEX 12V/ 5V Cable to the motherboard for the PCIE Lanes power!!!!

But like we have seen so far the OC's on here are only partly complete and not fully tested or done properly for this Mobo to work to its full potential i think!









AJ.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> JPM i am using 337.50 Beta Nvidia Drivers here over the last month, looks to be a big improvement over the previous releases, fixed quite a few errors now!!
> 
> BF4 and other games runs much more smoothly, sorry for being off topic here!!
> 
> Yeah i still feel everyone should install the MOLEX 12V/ 5V Cable to the motherboard for the PCIE Lanes power!!!!
> 
> But like we have seen so far the OC's on here are only partly complete and not fully tested or done properly for this Mobo to work to its full potential i think!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


When I asked on the ASUS forums, I was told to connect all the power to the MB, Molex, 4Pin, 8pin. Doesn't mater if you have 1 or 4 GPU, the MB will just be more stable as current can come in from all angles.

I have good result with my 32GB at 2400 [email protected] but on every reset/power off. I have to do the dance described here:
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46486-X79-BIOS-bug-might-affect-all-x79-boards

after the 3 save and the 2 auto power off. I get my good speed back.

I've also noticed in the XMP profile for that Kit I'm using specifies 1.2v for vccsa. On auto the R4BE will often go to 1.25. In any case, I get more stable performance with the vccsa at 1.15(i.e. the list of settings from AJ with a few adjustments)

Forgive the mistakes to the english language if any.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> The suggesting setting from AJ disable speedstep so multi is always 45. that must be why vcore was stuck at 1.6.


I suggest that if you disable speed step you should to switch to fixed vcore overclocking. Offset OC without speedstep is ... well fixed.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> JPM i am using 337.50 Beta Nvidia Drivers here over the last month, looks to be a big improvement over the previous releases, fixed quite a few errors now!!
> BF4 and other games runs much more smoothly, sorry for being off topic here!!
> Yeah i still feel everyone should install the MOLEX 12V/ 5V Cable to the motherboard for the PCIE Lanes power!!!!
> But like we have seen so far the OC's on here are only partly complete and not fully tested or done properly for this Mobo to work to its full potential i think!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


yeah, loaded those but removed for a benchmark comp...

and yes, you really need to connect every power source the MB is designed for, whether or not you are running cfx/sli.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> w000t all waterblocks ordered ( 4x swiftech komodo 290x blocks and board block ) all rads ordered ( 45mm 480, 60mm 480, just need 2x 480 monstas ! oos atm but i will have them as soon as they come in )
> 
> really all i need now are fans but i got a feeling it is a long time off. for what i want. this is gonna be epc 20x 120mm rad space should be enough to cool 290xs in quadfire and a 3930x/49xx right ????
> 
> all i need to do is make a bracket for my aquaeros ! mod my bracket for my flex bay to fit a alphacool rad, make pump mounting bracket, and only thing i need to order is ~ 1k-1.5k of sleeving stuffs ( which will cover all my pcs ) ! gonna sleeve this in white/gray/black, think it will look awesome... come to think of it i forgot my sata cables ( will also have custom length sata cables )


What waterblocks are you going with? When do you think its necessary to cool the chipset and the vrms?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> For the average guy, then i hope it will help to point them in the right direction!!
> 
> For someone like yourself then that's fine and dandy, and i fully understand that you are on a different level.
> 
> Thanks for the help and pointers you give as at times it also helps me here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


We're all just trying to help each other. I'm still running the 4.5 GHz/2666 with low voltages, PLL @ 1.45V, and manual vPLL Termination voltages as my 24/7 and gaming clocks.

So..when are you guys gonna start looking at PLL termination, eh?

That was one thing in that thread that was mentioned, lowered PLL, that I don't see many trying at all, but I do see many running higher PLL, and raised VCCSA and VTT compared to what I run.

I also think that offset and added Turbo could be better optimized. Offset should be applied to BCLK OC, and then additional turbo V for higher CPU multis, you'd think, but I haven't gotten to pushing that very much as of yet. I'm kinda wondering if I should even bother trying to add it to my guide.

Meanwhile, I can talk about anything Z97 now, so I got some work to do for the next couple of weeks. I wish you all the best of luck, and I'll be back to tweaking this board in a while when I get my first group of Z97 reviews completed.


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> MNiceGuy - sometimes the last to fail in a BSOD is not the cause. If you have "bluescreenviewer" what were the two preceding routines cited? Granted, NV drivers cause many problems, but it may only be the victim of a fault elsewhere.


Here you go:


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Here you go:


thx, dx11 went down last?


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> thx, dx11 went down last?


I believe so. The dump says the crash was caused by dxgkrnl.sys


----------



## Jpmboy

how old is your w7 install?
you can try opening an elevated command prompt. type in "sfc /sannnow" and let it run. (it verifies base kernel stuff). if it finds any integrity violations, post back.

also, in the windows serach box, type "dxdiag" if you have 64bit HP, select the 64bit option in the main window. Under the disply tab -0 any problems found?

btw - did it crash while gaming?


----------



## MNiceGuy

Fresh W7 HP x64 install
Quote:


> Microsoft Windows [Version 6.1.7601]
> Copyright (c) 2009 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.
> 
> C:\Users\Tony>sfc /scannow
> 
> Beginning system scan. This process will take some time.
> 
> Beginning verification phase of system scan.
> Verification 100% complete.
> 
> Windows Resource Protection did not find any integrity violations.
> 
> C:\Users\Tony>


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Right now I'm running a GSkill 4x4 1866 kit from the Black's QVL.
> 
> Prime95 Blend (max mem) stable for 18 hours
> IBT Maximum 30 passes.
> Could it still be the memory?


doubtful after 18h p95 blend. (use "custom", 5min/FFT next time - runs thru more FFTs faster.

from what you posted, I would say that leaving everything at stock settings is okay, but certainly not tuned to your specific CPU. Best to manually set up a mobo of this caliber.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> We're all just trying to help each other. I'm still running the 4.5 GHz/2666 with low voltages, PLL @ 1.45V, and manual vPLL Termination voltages as my 24/7 and gaming clocks.
> So..when are you guys gonna start looking at PLL termination, eh?
> That was one thing in that thread that was mentioned, lowered PLL, that I don't see many trying at all, but I do see many running higher PLL, and raised VCCSA and VTT compared to what I run.
> I also think that offset and added Turbo could be better optimized. *Offset should be applied to BCLK OC,* and then additional turbo V for higher CPU multis, you'd think, but I haven't gotten to pushing that very much as of yet. I'm kinda wondering if I should even bother trying to add it to my guide.
> Meanwhile, I can talk about anything Z97 now, so I got some work to do for the next couple of weeks. I wish you all the best of luck, and I'll be back to tweaking this board in a while when I get my first group of Z97 reviews completed.


I have been running 103.3 bclk (x46, 47 and 48) with ram at 2203c8 via offset for a few months... no problem. can't for the life of me get 125 offset to work!!!









and good reviewing to you!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Fresh W7 HP x64 install


Cool. dx11 diagnosis? (type dxdiag in windows search)

as I said earlier... there is no such thing as 100% game stable. MOst games are not 100% stable!


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Cool. dx11 diagnosis? (type dxdiag in windows search)
> 
> as I said earlier... there is no such thing as 100% game stable. MOst games are not 100% stable!


Clean as a whistle.

I'm probably being overly anal. This baby is brand-new to me so I have yet to really get to know it.

I just remembered:

I ran some loops of 3DMark11 the other night at my native res (2560x1600) and it was still going to hours later. I noticed once I exited the program the desktop was stuck in basic mode. Didn't think much of it though since my old Alienware used to do that all the time.


----------



## Asus11

I was really hyped to order this motherboard soon.. but after reading about 20 pages back all I can see is hiccups with this board.. kinda killed the vibe for me.. not sure what to do now..

I had plans!! big plans!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Clean as a whistle.
> 
> I'm probably being overly anal. This baby is brand-new to me so I have yet to really get to know it.
> 
> I just remembered:
> 
> I ran some loops of 3DMark11 the other night at my native res (2560x1600) and it was still going to hours later. I noticed once I exited the program the desktop was stuck in basic mode. Didn't think much of it though since my old Alienware used to do that all the time.


Frankly, If your rig is still stable to Custom p95, the crashes are not likely due to your hardware. BUT: you probably can get away with a 4.5GHz OC without any sweat... and probly higher.









that's 3dmk11. I'll get a stuttery desktop for a few moments. As with all benmchmarks, it's best to set your screen res to the benchmark run resolution. Some of my results with 3Dmk11 are in the HOF
http://www.3dmark.com/hall-of-fame-2/3dmark+11+3dmark+score+performance+preset/version+1.0.132/3+gpu
http://www.3dmark.com/hall-of-fame-2/3dmark+11+3dmark+score+performance+preset/version+1.0.132/2+gpu
and for Extreme - 1st place for 2 and 3 cards. 1 card - only LN2 guys are higher








gotta showoff once in awhile!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> I was really hyped to order this motherboard soon.. but after reading about 20 pages back all I can see is hiccups with this board.. kinda killed the vibe for me.. not sure what to do now..
> 
> I had plans!! big plans!


this and the R4E are fantastic mobos (I'd add the E-WS to that list too, kinda regret selling mine). It all depends on what you want the mobo for.

*this* is really good general (and specific) reading.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> w000t all waterblocks ordered ( 4x swiftech komodo 290x blocks and board block ) all rads ordered ( 45mm 480, 60mm 480, just need 2x 480 monstas ! oos atm but i will have them as soon as they come in )
> 
> really all i need now are fans but i got a feeling it is a long time off. for what i want. this is gonna be epc 20x 120mm rad space should be enough to cool 290xs in quadfire and a 3930x/49xx right ????
> 
> all i need to do is make a bracket for my aquaeros ! mod my bracket for my flex bay to fit a alphacool rad, make pump mounting bracket, and only thing i need to order is ~ 1k-1.5k of sleeving stuffs ( which will cover all my pcs ) ! gonna sleeve this in white/gray/black, think it will look awesome... come to think of it i forgot my sata cables ( will also have custom length sata cables )
> 
> 
> 
> What waterblocks are you going with? When do you think its necessary to cool the chipset and the vrms?
Click to expand...

the EK set, they look the best IMO ( clean not csq )

really it comes to looks when looking at vrm blocks, if a company cant make them, they dont have any business being in business
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> For the average guy, then i hope it will help to point them in the right direction!!
> 
> For someone like yourself then that's fine and dandy, and i fully understand that you are on a different level.
> 
> Thanks for the help and pointers you give as at times it also helps me here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.
> 
> 
> 
> We're all just trying to help each other. I'm still running the 4.5 GHz/2666 with low voltages, PLL @ 1.45V, and manual vPLL Termination voltages as my 24/7 and gaming clocks.
> 
> So..when are you guys gonna start looking at PLL termination, eh?
> 
> That was one thing in that thread that was mentioned, lowered PLL, that I don't see many trying at all, but I do see many running higher PLL, and raised VCCSA and VTT compared to what I run.
> 
> I also think that offset and added Turbo could be better optimized. Offset should be applied to BCLK OC, and then additional turbo V for higher CPU multis, you'd think, but I haven't gotten to pushing that very much as of yet. I'm kinda wondering if I should even bother trying to add it to my guide.
> 
> Meanwhile, I can talk about anything Z97 now, so I got some work to do for the next couple of weeks. I wish you all the best of luck, and I'll be back to tweaking this board in a while when I get my first group of Z97 reviews completed.
Click to expand...

i heard ( from the RIVE THREADS ) that 5 and 5.5 helped, and raja added to pll. but they didnt include in this one @[email protected] would you mind adding it as well please







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> I was really hyped to order this motherboard soon.. but after reading about 20 pages back all I can see is hiccups with this board.. kinda killed the vibe for me.. not sure what to do now..
> 
> I had plans!! big plans!


do it. and enjoy, remember complaints are heard far and wide, where compliments are seldom reported, i never have had a problem yet and i preordered the board


----------



## stebbiro

Hey guys... I'm happy to say I get my RIVBE next payday.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Frankly, If your rig is still stable to Custom p95, the crashes are not likely due to your hardware. BUT: you probably can get away with a 4.5GHz OC without any sweat... and probly higher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's 3dmk11. I'll get a stuttery desktop for a few moments. As with all benmchmarks, it's best to set your screen res to the benchmark run resolution. Some of my results with 3Dmk11 are in the HOF
> http://www.3dmark.com/hall-of-fame-2/3dmark+11+3dmark+score+performance+preset/version+1.0.132/3+gpu
> http://www.3dmark.com/hall-of-fame-2/3dmark+11+3dmark+score+performance+preset/version+1.0.132/2+gpu
> and for Extreme - 1st place for 2 and 3 cards. 1 card - only LN2 guys are higher
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gotta showoff once in awhile!


Nice score Jpmboy.
I'm happy at 25th on the 2 CPU section. I get the score from the GFX overclock vs physic/CPU.

@cadaveca Can you share some starting point for lower PLL? No mater what I try I land at 1.38vCore for 45*100 so maybe I need a general lowering of voltage. I assume that If I just stick PLL to 1.45v it will take me a long time to fix the rest without some guidance.

Thanks.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Nice score Jpmboy.
> I'm happy at 25th on the 2 CPU section. I get the score from the GFX overclock vs physic/CPU.
> 
> @cadaveca Can you share some starting point for lower PLL? No mater what I try I land at 1.38vCore for 45*100 so maybe I need a general lowering of voltage. I assume that If I just stick PLL to 1.45v it will take me a long time to fix the rest without some guidance.
> 
> Thanks.


I think either raja or maybe centvalny posted PLL "Termination guidelines", in regards to voltages.

My thoughts:

First, I don't know WHUT I am talking about. I change settings that are given by the board makers, not make them, so take this all with a grain of salt. I could be totally wrong, but this is my silly logic that seems to work sometimes.

So, PLL, it has high and low voltage modes. It relates *directly* to raw frequency. So for each MHz, the PLL requirement, truly, is a bit different. However, we don't have that sort of granularity, so let's not worry about that so much, and let's look at what works. If the voltage is inaccurate, the clock just won't be stable. "Spread Spectrum" is like a way to deal with this, the clock adjusts up and down like the PLL does... since we're working with waves anyway...

So, low voltage mode is like 1.25V-1.45V, high voltage mode is 1.65V-2.1V. These given ranges are approximate... I'd have to dig through the documents to find the actual values...(and they are there in Intel Whitepapers, but I forget which and where) but I think those are pretty close. The range between both modes...is not really recommended, actually. It should also not be lower than vCore.

Anyway...

So, the CPU has many voltages, many different clocks in different areas, and these clocks are all "sourced" from that same voltage. But pushing that 1.8 V directly from the clock source or whatever directly to all areas of the chip would create lots of heat (Haswell does exactly this with the iVR), so it is "terminated" to a lower value that is more acceptable to the chip. Since all voltages are sourced from the same line, so to speak, they all relate to each other in a specific way, and this is why sometimes they can "pull" from other areas...by getting closer to the optimal differential range of PLL allows PLL to fluctuate less, which pays off in other areas. Pushing vcore higher, closer to PLL, can alow for just a bit more current on PLL from another clock...

With the chips that I have, this range seems to be 0.2V (it may have mentioned this in the documents, I cannot remember)...so I want to keep PLL at least 0.2V above vCore, but I don't want to hit that "bad" range between the high and low voltage modes. So, with 1.25V vCore, I can run 1.45V PLL.

But, this 1.45V...it's not exact, really. It's a wave that fluctuates on load..., dipping lower, compensating, overshooting from compensating, normalizing... But, we can "hard terminate" to prevent damage (PLL Termination). Or we can allow some overshoot (PLL Overvoltage), or we can let the default values run.

That's why PLL Overvoltage option allowed for higher multis with SNB...it allowed for overshoot, instead of hard termination, allowing for higher multis.

Anyway...that my logic, but ... uh... I just push buttons like a monkey. This is my banana. OM nom nom.


----------



## Errorist66

@cadaveca Thanks for the info.

So I can still use VCCSA around 1.15-1.2v with PLL in the low range?

I know how you feel about just playing with vendors settings. Done that with enterprise storage controller from almost every vendors, configuring a system for real time 4K uncompressed video playback at 1.2 to 1.6 GB/sec. That was way before SSD where a project.

I'll give this low PLL a spin tomorrow.

Thanks for the info.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> @cadaveca Thanks for the info.
> 
> So I can still use VCCSA around 1.15-1.2v with PLL in the low range?
> 
> I know how you feel about just playing with vendors settings. Done that with enterprise storage controller from almost every vendors, configuring a system for real time 4K uncompressed video playback at 1.2 to 1.6 GB/sec. That was way before SSD where a project.
> 
> I'll give this low PLL a spin tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks for the info.


For me, no, higher VCCSA causes instability.

I think of how voltage flows through the chip to each domain, and how they are offset from each other. vCore to vtt to vccsa to vttDDR to vDIMM, and then back. voltage increases and how they are added are at specific points. But perhaps increasing PLL termination point allows for a bit more vCore.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I think either raja or maybe centvalny posted PLL "Termination guidelines", in regards to voltages.
> 
> My thoughts:
> 
> First, I don't know WHUT I am talking about. I change settings that are given by the board makers, not make them, so take this all with a grain of salt. I could be totally wrong, but this is my silly logic that seems to work sometimes.
> 
> So, PLL, it has high and low voltage modes. It relates *directly* to raw frequency. So for each MHz, the PLL requirement, truly, is a bit different. However, we don't have that sort of granularity, so let's not worry about that so much, and let's look at what works. If the voltage is inaccurate, the clock just won't be stable. "Spread Spectrum" is like a way to deal with this, the clock adjusts up and down like the PLL does... since we're working with waves anyway...
> 
> So, low voltage mode is like 1.25V-1.45V, high voltage mode is 1.65V-2.1V. These given ranges are approximate... I'd have to dig through the documents to find the actual values...(and they are there in Intel Whitepapers, but I forget which and where) but I think those are pretty close. The range between both modes...is not really recommended, actually. It should also not be lower than vCore.
> 
> Anyway...
> 
> So, the CPU has many voltages, many different clocks in different areas, and these clocks are all "sourced" from that same voltage. But pushing that 1.8 V directly from the clock source or whatever directly to all areas of the chip would create lots of heat (Haswell does exactly this with the iVR), so it is "terminated" to a lower value that is more acceptable to the chip. Since all voltages are sourced from the same line, so to speak, they all relate to each other in a specific way, and this is why sometimes they can "pull" from other areas...by getting closer to the optimal differential range of PLL allows PLL to fluctuate less, which pays off in other areas. Pushing vcore higher, closer to PLL, can alow for just a bit more current on PLL from another clock...
> 
> With the chips that I have, this range seems to be 0.2V (it may have mentioned this in the documents, I cannot remember)...so I want to keep PLL at least 0.2V above vCore, but I don't want to hit that "bad" range between the high and low voltage modes. So, with 1.25V vCore, I can run 1.45V PLL.
> 
> But, this 1.45V...it's not exact, really. It's a wave that fluctuates on load..., dipping lower, compensating, overshooting from compensating, normalizing... But, we can "hard terminate" to prevent damage (PLL Termination). Or we can allow some overshoot (PLL Overvoltage), or we can let the default values run.
> 
> That's why PLL Overvoltage option allowed for higher multis with SNB...it allowed for overshoot, instead of hard termination, allowing for higher multis.
> 
> Anyway...that my logic, but ... uh... I just push buttons like a monkey. This is my banana. OM nom nom.


Just what i have been looking for as to some kind of exsplaination as to how this whole "PLL OVERVOLTAGE" works in relationship with the CPU it self!

Never really got to grips with this or tried to use it just left things on AUTO and let the Mobo make the decisions in the Bios here!

Does this also work with the IB-E CPU's 4930K + 4960X, yeah a noob question here! I take the answer is YES!

So lets see a OC @ 44 with a Vcore @ 1.200v to 1.230v that should give me a PLL of about 1.235v, so this would be in the range of 1.25v to 1.45v Correct??

Well i hope its correct trying to learn something new, which is great!!









AJ.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Just what i have been looking for as to some kind of exsplaination as to how this whole "PLL OVERVOLTAGE" works in relationship with the CPU it self!
> 
> Never really got to grips with this or tried to use it just left things on AUTO and let the Mobo make the decisions in the Bios here!
> 
> Does this also work with the IB-E CPU's 4930K + 4960X, yeah a noob question here! I take the answer is YES!
> 
> So lets see a OC @ 44 with a Vcore @ 1.200v to 1.230v that should give me a PLL of about 1.235v, so this would be in the range of 1.25v to 1.45v Correct??
> 
> Well i hope its correct trying to learn something new, which is great!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


You can try 1.25V, yep. But please don't me mad at me if something breaks.









Actually, I think that is a bit too low...but with turbo disabled and 1.05V on CPU...maybe...

PLL needs to stay above vCPU, as far as I understand it.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Yeah i still feel everyone should install the MOLEX 12V/ 5V Cable to the motherboard for the PCIE Lanes power!!!!


Does the EZ_PLUG Molex at the bottom of the mobo need to be connected to the PSU ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Does the EZ_PLUG Molex at the bottom of the mobo need to be connected to the PSU ?


The EZ plug at the bottom of the board is optional, but I would strongly recommend using it (plug in an available 4-pin molex from the PSU) if running multiple GPUs.


----------



## SDMODNoob

I remember reading somewhere that you need a 30mm extender to line up a supremacy block to monarch modules using 90 degree compression fittings on a R4BE. Can anyone confirm this? Been searching threads for the last hour and can't find a number.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The EZ plug at the bottom of the board is optional, but I would strongly recommend using it (plug in an available 4-pin molex from the PSU) if running multiple GPUs.


+1 To that even if your just running 1 GPU, i have seen and read about Melted Parts of a 24 PIN CABLE that had to supply all the Voltage and Current to the PCI-E LANES!!

The other main point is it helps to Balance the power input to the PCI-E LANES and helps your GPU CARDS work and be more stable under heavy loads and demands!

Look at it this way "Why would Asus include this item if it was not needed at all" Just think about that for a second, also with all the high power cards you have now days with big power demands it speaks for its self!

Just one word of caution here, double check the VOLTAGES on both lines before you PLUG anything into your Motherboard!

So plug your Molex into the PSU and then switch on your PC, then with a Multimeter check the Voltage between the pin 1 which is positive to the pin 2 which is your "EARTH" be-careful not to short anything out as you are fully connected to a live PSU!!! Then pin 4 which is positive to the pin 3 which is EARTH!

IF I REMEMBER THAT THIS IS THE CORRECT WAY AROUND SO YOU WILL SEE IF THE METER GOES THE CORRECT WAY!! And you have your Voltage readings.









Depending which way around you have your plug it should read 5 Volts on one side and 12 Volts on the other!!

Remember the center pin on each side of the plug is the NEGATIVE!! The 2 outside ones is either 5 Volt line or 12 Volt line OK!

Once your happy that it works properly switch everything off, even your PSU and dump all power before you try to install the MOLEX CABLE INTO THE MOBO!

The cable will only fit one way around so check and do not try to force it into the socket!

Take you time and good luck with it all.
















Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Does the EZ_PLUG Molex at the bottom of the mobo need to be connected to the PSU ?


Yes!


----------



## [email protected]

A few things about PLL voltages:

1) The PLL rail is low current. Typically less than 2 amps of current draw, and often a single pad used on the CPU for this rail. Therefore, any DTS temp changes seen as a result of lowering or increasing PLL should be taken with a grain of salt in terms of "value".

2) Take the name of certain settings with a grain of salt. We purposely hide some of our proprietary stuff to prevent it being ripped off easily by competitors.

3) Adjusting PLL voltage can change signal integrity and timing of all associated domains. That's where tuning this rail can help on some CPUs. If voltage is set too high or too low, signal timing between DRAM, system agent or ring bus can be affected that it either makes a given overclock unstable or leads to the need for elevating associated voltage rails a bit. Most of this only manifests if the board is pushed or a CPU is being run close to its limit with a given set of parts.

4) There is no direct relationship between Vcore and VPLL. That being said, setting it too low will simply give rise to instability. Setting it too high can lead to damage of the PLL circuitry and the CPU will lose it's ability to be stable at a given overclock. For most people I simply tell them to leave this setting alone. Any OC that needs adjustment of this rail to be stable is best pegged back to a point where adjustment is not needed. Why? Because it gives an indication that timing margins are strained and the system may not be stable for 24/7 use unconditionally - even with adjustments. Benchmarking of course is a different beast..

-Raja


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Clean as a whistle.
> 
> I'm probably being overly anal. This baby is brand-new to me so I have yet to really get to know it.
> 
> I just remembered:
> 
> I ran some loops of 3DMark11 the other night at my native res (2560x1600) and it was still going to hours later. I noticed once I exited the program the desktop was stuck in basic mode. Didn't think much of it though since my old Alienware used to do that all the time.


I took some of the advice given yesterday, disabled XMP and then went and set everything manually per manufacturer spec. I also completely removed and reinstalled the graphics driver.

I let Arkham Origins run for probably an hour or so - no abnormal behavior
Next, I looped 3DMark11 at my native res with everything pegged. A little over two hours later everything was still running.
Last, I ran Prime95 (v27.9) on Blend with high memory allocation and 5-min FFT for 9.5 hours overnight. No trouble.

I would have let Prime run longer but honestly it's never failed any sort of Prime95 test so I didn't feel there was need to go further.

What do you think guys? BSODs from mentioned in my earlier posts just a graphics driver or game thing?

Thanks by the way for all the help given to me in this thread. It's been quite a help!


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The EZ plug at the bottom of the board is optional, but I would strongly recommend using it (plug in an available 4-pin molex from the PSU) if running multiple GPUs.


Interesting. I skipped this on my install because I only have two GPUs. I guess it certainly couldn't hurt to just run a molex over there. Good info!

EDIT: Ugh wasn't thinking....sorry for the double


----------



## skupples

I have a "might as well" rule for things like the EZ Plug and extra 4 pin


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> I remember reading somewhere that you need a 30mm extender to line up a supremacy block to monarch modules using 90 degree compression fittings on a R4BE. Can anyone confirm this? Been searching threads for the last hour and can't find a number.


Its 31 to be exact but 30 cm is what you need it was a few pages back but to answer your question yes.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> A few things about PLL voltages:
> 
> 1) The PLL rail is low current. Typically less than 2 amps of current draw, and often a single pad used on the CPU for this rail. Therefore, any DTS temp changes seen as a result of lowering or increasing PLL should be taken with a grain of salt in terms of "value".
> 
> 2) Take the name of certain settings with a grain of salt. We purposely hide some of our proprietary stuff to prevent it being ripped off easily by competitors.
> 
> 3) Adjusting PLL voltage can change signal integrity and timing of all associated domains. That's where tuning this rail can help on some CPUs. If voltage is set too high or too low, signal timing between DRAM, system agent or ring bus can be affected that it either makes a given overclock unstable or leads to the need for elevating associated voltage rails a bit. Most of this only manifests if the board is pushed or a CPU is being run close to its limit with a given set of parts.
> 
> 4) There is no direct relationship between Vcore and VPLL. That being said, setting it too low will simply give rise to instability. Setting it too high can lead to damage of the PLL circuitry and the CPU will lose it's ability to be stable at a given overclock. For most people I simply tell them to leave this setting alone. Any OC that needs adjustment of this rail to be stable is best pegged back to a point where adjustment is not needed. Why? Because it gives an indication that timing margins are strained and the system may not be stable for 24/7 use unconditionally - even with adjustments. Benchmarking of course is a different beast..
> 
> -Raja


thanks Raja!!


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> A few things about PLL voltages:
> 
> 1) The PLL rail is low current. Typically less than 2 amps of current draw, and often a single pad used on the CPU for this rail. Therefore, any DTS temp changes seen as a result of lowering or increasing PLL should be taken with a grain of salt in terms of "value".
> 
> 2) Take the name of certain settings with a grain of salt. We purposely hide some of our proprietary stuff to prevent it being ripped off easily by competitors.
> 
> 3) Adjusting PLL voltage can change signal integrity and timing of all associated domains. That's where tuning this rail can help on some CPUs. If voltage is set too high or too low, signal timing between DRAM, system agent or ring bus can be affected that it either makes a given overclock unstable or leads to the need for elevating associated voltage rails a bit. Most of this only manifests if the board is pushed or a CPU is being run close to its limit with a given set of parts.
> 
> 4) There is no direct relationship between Vcore and VPLL. That being said, setting it too low will simply give rise to instability. Setting it too high can lead to damage of the PLL circuitry and the CPU will lose it's ability to be stable at a given overclock. For most people I simply tell them to leave this setting alone. Any OC that needs adjustment of this rail to be stable is best pegged back to a point where adjustment is not needed. Why? Because it gives an indication that timing margins are strained and the system may not be stable for 24/7 use unconditionally - even with adjustments. Benchmarking of course is a different beast..
> 
> -Raja


Many thanks for your incite to this question, so from what you have said, everyday OC's should leave this setting on DEFAULT or well alone, as its not needed!!









Also by adjusting this there is a good possibility to cause more problems than any benefits!









EDIT: To read as Default as per Raja post!

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Many thanks for your incite to this question, so from what you have said, everyday OC's should leave this setting on AUTO or well alone, as its not needed!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also by adjusting this there is a good possibility to cause more problems than any benefits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


so from what you have said, everyday OC's should leave this setting on AUTO or well alone, as its not needed!!









1) Preferably best left at default if one uses the system and expect it to recover from S3 and POST consistently. Better to select an overclock that does not need adjustment of PLL voltages.

Also by adjusting this there is a good possibility to cause more problems than any benefits!








2) Maybe so, maybe not.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> I took some of the advice given yesterday, disabled XMP and then went and set everything manually per manufacturer spec. I also completely removed and reinstalled the graphics driver.
> 
> I let Arkham Origins run for probably an hour or so - no abnormal behavior
> Next, I looped 3DMark11 at my native res with everything pegged. A little over two hours later everything was still running.
> Last, I ran Prime95 (v27.9) on Blend with high memory allocation and 5-min FFT for 9.5 hours overnight. No trouble.
> 
> I would have let Prime run longer but honestly it's never failed any sort of Prime95 test so I didn't feel there was need to go further.
> 
> What do you think guys? BSODs from mentioned in my earlier posts just a graphics driver or game thing?
> 
> Thanks by the way for all the help given to me in this thread. It's been quite a help!


Nice to hear that the Ram timings you set by HAND worked for you and solved your problems!

There is nothing wrong with the XMP PROFILES, but they are not 100% to work with all Ram and CPU's as you know there is small differences between them all.

Myself is OLD SCHOOL and always have set my Ram timings by hand ever since i first began to Overclock years ago and i find it works for me!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Interesting. I skipped this on my install because I only have two GPUs. I guess it certainly couldn't hurt to just run a molex over there. Good info!
> 
> EDIT: Ugh wasn't thinking....sorry for the double


I have 2 x EVGA GTX 780 TI's Superclocked running on my Mobo in SLI, what i have found out is that by adding the MOLEX EZ PLUG to my set up here.

My GPU's seem to run much better than before, now whether that is just a coincidence i can not honestly say!

But also i have seen photo's of Melted 24 pin plugs that where asked to supply all the power to the PCI-E SLOTS!

The choice as always is yours.





This was before i decided to add the Molex EZ PLUG!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> A few things about PLL voltages:
> 
> 1) The PLL rail is low current. Typically less than 2 amps of current draw, and often a single pad used on the CPU for this rail. Therefore, any DTS temp changes seen as a result of lowering or increasing PLL should be taken with a grain of salt in terms of "value".
> 
> 2) Take the name of certain settings with a grain of salt. We purposely hide some of our proprietary stuff to prevent it being ripped off easily by competitors.
> 
> 3) Adjusting PLL voltage can change signal integrity and timing of all associated domains. That's where tuning this rail can help on some CPUs. If voltage is set too high or too low, signal timing between DRAM, system agent or ring bus can be affected that it either makes a given overclock unstable or leads to the need for elevating associated voltage rails a bit. Most of this only manifests if the board is pushed or a CPU is being run close to its limit with a given set of parts.
> 
> 4) There is no direct relationship between Vcore and VPLL. That being said, setting it too low will simply give rise to instability. Setting it too high can lead to damage of the PLL circuitry and the CPU will lose it's ability to be stable at a given overclock. For most people I simply tell them to leave this setting alone. Any OC that needs adjustment of this rail to be stable is best pegged back to a point where adjustment is not needed. Why? Because it gives an indication that timing margins are strained and the system may not be stable for 24/7 use unconditionally - even with adjustments. Benchmarking of course is a different beast..
> 
> -Raja


So...

1)PLL doesn't affect temps.

2)You guys label stuff weird.

3)It's only really important when pushing the limits.

4)It doesn't affect vCore directly, and no harm to lower, other than stability problems.

5)Too much can cause damage, so don't push high.

6)It can affect sleep and stuff. If you NEED to adjust for stability...back off, you're pushing too hard for 24/7 anyway.

Sounds good to me.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> So...
> 
> 1)PLL doesn't affect temps.
> 
> 2)You guys label stuff weird.
> 
> 3)It's only really important when pushing the limits.
> 
> 4)It doesn't affect vCore directly, and no harm to lower, other than stability problems.
> 
> 5)Too much can cause damage, so don't push high.
> 
> 6)It can affect sleep and stuff. If you NEED to adjust for stability...back off, you're pushing too hard for 24/7 anyway.
> 
> Sounds good to me.


I will remember to keep my posts this concise in future so you guys don't have to do it for me







Just remember not to pester me for more info when i do it


----------



## Gunslinger.

lol


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I will remember to keep my posts this concise in future so you guys don't have to do it for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just remember not to pester me for more info when i do it


No don't do that. We need your detailed guides to learn. We need to cadaveca to dumb it down for us sometimes so we can understand better. Teamwork!!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I will remember to keep my posts this concise in future so you guys don't have to do it for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just remember not to pester me for more info when i do it


LuLz. I was asking if I got it right, actually.







Hence the "So...". Help this monkey brain repeat the simple stuff.







I will be quoting that info, after all. rofl. What more funny is that yesterday I said I was gonna work on reivews, but figured if I posted that big post last night maybe you'd poke your head in here and correct me, so thanks.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 x EVGA GTX 780 TI's Superclocked running on my Mobo in SLI, what i have found out is that by adding the MOLEX EZ PLUG to my set up here.
> 
> My GPU's seem to run much better than before, now whether that is just a coincidence i can not honestly say!
> 
> But also i have seen photo's of Melted 24 pin plugs that where asked to supply all the power to the PCI-E SLOTS!
> 
> The choice as always is yours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was before i decided to add the Molex EZ PLUG!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


What tubing is that? Primochill?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> A few things about PLL voltages:
> 
> 1) The PLL rail is low current. Typically less than 2 amps of current draw, and often a single pad used on the CPU for this rail. Therefore, any DTS temp changes seen as a result of lowering or increasing PLL should be taken with a grain of salt in terms of "value".
> 
> 2) Take the name of certain settings with a grain of salt. We purposely hide some of our proprietary stuff to prevent it being ripped off easily by competitors.
> 
> 3) Adjusting PLL voltage can change signal integrity and timing of all associated domains. That's where tuning this rail can help on some CPUs. If voltage is set too high or too low, signal timing between DRAM, system agent or ring bus can be affected that it either makes a given overclock unstable or leads to the need for elevating associated voltage rails a bit. Most of this only manifests if the board is pushed or a CPU is being run close to its limit with a given set of parts.
> 
> 4) There is no direct relationship between Vcore and VPLL. That being said, setting it too low will simply give rise to instability. Setting it too high can lead to damage of the PLL circuitry and the CPU will lose it's ability to be stable at a given overclock. For most people I simply tell them to leave this setting alone. Any OC that needs adjustment of this rail to be stable is best pegged back to a point where adjustment is not needed. Why? Because it gives an indication that timing margins are strained and the system may not be stable for 24/7 use unconditionally - even with adjustments. Benchmarking of course is a different beast..
> 
> -Raja


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> So...
> 
> 1)PLL doesn't affect temps.
> 
> 2)You guys label stuff weird.
> 
> 3)It's only really important when pushing the limits.
> 
> 4)It doesn't affect vCore directly, and no harm to lower, other than stability problems.
> 
> 5)Too much can cause damage, so don't push high.
> 
> 6)It can affect sleep and stuff. If you NEED to adjust for stability...back off, you're pushing too hard for 24/7 anyway.
> 
> Sounds good to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will remember to keep my posts this concise in future so you guys don't have to do it for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just remember not to pester me for more info when i do it
Click to expand...

please dont !~ i like reading your posts like this as they help me understand so much better !


----------



## cadaveca

LuLz. I find this all rather amusing.










Obviously me posting that offended Raja in some way...but I don't understand WHY.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> LuLz. I find this all rather amusing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously me posting that offended Raja in some way...but I don't understand WHY.


I don't think Raja was offended. Good to have you both here to help!

@Raja- what about this 2400 ram issue that was brought up here in the last few days?


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I have 2 x EVGA GTX 780 TI's Superclocked running on my Mobo in SLI, what i have found out is that by adding the MOLEX EZ PLUG to my set up here.
> 
> My GPU's seem to run much better than before, now whether that is just a coincidence i can not honestly say!
> 
> But also i have seen photo's of Melted 24 pin plugs that where asked to supply all the power to the PCI-E SLOTS!
> 
> The choice as always is yours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was before i decided to add the Molex EZ PLUG!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Reason they run better is the ti draw alot of power from the pcie lane in addition to the 6 pin and 8 pin it was a discussion we had when the ti first came out on the ti official thread. They had caused apparent rumors of pcie lanes being burned up because of the power draw.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I don't think Raja was offended. Good to have you both here to help!


You are correct, I was being facetious.


----------



## kpoeticg

@[email protected] I overnighted my board to USA RMA via UPS Red Label last Thursday and haven't gotten an email that they received it yet. Does processing usually take that long? I'm expecting the rma to take a bit, expected a notification that they received it by now tho...


----------



## [email protected]

Not sure on the time as I don't deal with RMAs myself. Give it a few days.


----------



## kpoeticg

Cool. Thanx for replying


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> What tubing is that? Primochill?


Yes its the latest Primochill Advanced LRT it helps to stop the plasterzing inside the tubes!!

Size is 3/4 outer OD by 1/2 inner OD!

1, http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Primochill-PrimoFlex-Advanced-LRT-12-ID---34-OD-13-19mm-Tubing--Elegant-White-pid-17697.html



I hope this helps you!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Reason they run better is the ti draw alot of power from the pcie lane in addition to the 6 pin and 8 pin it was a discussion we had when the ti first came out on the ti official thread. They had caused apparent rumors of pcie lanes being burned up because of the power draw.


Many thanks for taking the time to answer my post, i just guessed that had something to do with it.

As the 780 TI's can draw up to 300 to 320 Watts TDP each, so a Molex EZ Plug is a no brainer!!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Yes its the latest Primochill Advanced LRT it helps to stop the plasterzing inside the tubes!!
> 
> Size is 3/4 outer OD by 1/2 inner OD!
> 
> 1, http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Primochill-PrimoFlex-Advanced-LRT-12-ID---34-OD-13-19mm-Tubing--Elegant-White-pid-17697.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this helps you!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Thanks for the reponse. I have the black advanced lrt and was thinking of going white this time. I think it should look good with a white case and all black components. It looks like a really vibrant white


----------



## Ajay57

Its always nice to help someone out, as you never know when you might need help yourself!
















Sorry i forgot to mention this little TIP for you, just clean the tubing with a SOFT DRY PAINT BRUSH to remove any dust etc and it will keep its shiny coating longer!!









AJ.


----------



## Seyumi

So I literally just browsed all the pictures from the 774 pages on this thread and I did not see a single person attempt to use a PCIE 1x ribbon on one of the two PCIE 1x slots to run a soundcard with 4 way SLI water-cooling. This should be possible right? Screw the SC into the 9th+ expansion bracket and run a cable in-between the GPUs? I realize aesthetics would be shot but I'm just curious if there is something physically or electronically stopping something like that from happening? I can't even find anything showing this happening in a google search regardless of the motherboard/GPUs. I know the PCIE 1x slots don't share the same lanes as the GPU so there shouldn't be any conflicts. Are the GPU water blocks too thick and still somewhat cover the PCIE 1x slots? Always been a fan of dedicated sound cards but literally just one click a way from going 4 way SLI water cooling to power the incoming 4K monitors and next-gen games.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Should be doable, but you're going to lose one lane of PCI-E, which is already stretched thin in a 4xSLI config. That's probably why you're not finding examples of it out there. But if you want to go that route, I don't see any reason you couldn't.


----------



## Gunslinger.

I can take a picture of mine tonight and show if there is room or not. Currently have 4x 290X on water setup.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> You are correct, I was being facetious.


any help you can provide regarding this 2400 (100bclk) ram issue? Here's what happens... I set 2400 with correct timings, volts, etc. and memory write speed via aid64 is ~69,000, runs fine, rock stable for days.. Do a cold restart. write speed is now ~43,000. No consistency in a fix... sometimes it just requires a cold boot (shut down psu level cold boot) other times it ramdomly returns to the expected thru-put. Is this a bios bug?

ram speeds of 2133 and 2333 never experience this problem.

Help!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> any help you can provide regarding this 2400 (100bclk) ram issue? Here's what happens... I set 2400 with correct timings, volts, etc. and memory write speed via aid64 is ~69,000, runs fine, rock stable for days.. Do a cold restart. write speed is now ~43,000. No consistency in a fix... sometimes it just requires a cold boot (shut down psu level cold boot) other times it ramdomly returns to the expected thru-put. Is this a bios bug?
> 
> ram speeds of 2133 and 2333 never experience this problem.
> 
> Help!


Can't help with this - have too much to work on right now. If you're inclined then go through each setting and eliminate - that's what I'll have to do to look at it.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Can't help with this - have too much to work on right now. If you're inclined then go through each setting and eliminate - that's what I'll have to do to look at it.


I have not been able to eliminate the problem thru ram timings or voltages (dram, vtt or vsa). Here's what it looks like... one of the few times a problem reproduced itself on command








This is at 103.3 bclk. same issue at 100
Sequence:

load stable setting from bios (2203 ram, bios version 0602)
set ram to 2472 with proper timings (stable as far as I'm willing to let p95 run with 12288 ram committed, couple of hours)
boot to windows, run aid64 ram bench
shut down (board power kept on)
restart and run aid64 ram bench again:



It's good to be busy:thumb: Please take a look when you have a chance, or at least bring to the surface within Asus. The issue is not just mine, many R4BE owners have complained about the problem and each has worked out a voodoo solution.


----------



## [email protected]

I trust you tried ALL of the DRAM timings yes? Could just be an Intel thing. Who knows.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I trust you tried ALL of the DRAM timings yes? Could just be an Intel thing. Who knows.


"All Timings" can't say that. Everything after cycle time is auto in this case. Didn't experience the problem on my E-WS mobo.
I can poke around in the timings, I thought you might have some insight. If we're down to trial&error, let it ride until others note the problem.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> You are correct, I was being facetious.


Heh, as was I, just so we are clear. If there are smilies in my posts...never take them too seriously.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I trust you tried ALL of the DRAM timings yes? Could just be an Intel thing. Who knows.


I'd say an Intel thing because I have one CPU that does this, and one that does not. At first I thought it might be because of training at boot...but that involves the CPU as well, doesn't it?


----------



## [email protected]

I guess you didn't know I use smilies for the same reason then


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I guess you didn't know I use smilies for the same reason then












I wasn't posting that for you benefit, Mr Man. You're paid ASUS staff, you have to help in some ways. The rest of us are users (well, except two or three.







)

BTW... VII HERO feels like the new Formula, and I love it. Deluxe goodies take up more box than the board. Uh..


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Heh, as was I, just so we are clear. If there are smilies in my posts...never take them too seriously.
> *I'd say an Intel thing* because I have one CPU that does this, and one that does not. At first I thought it might be because of training at boot...but that involves the CPU as well, doesn't it?


well, I'm 3 for 3 with this issue: 2 4930Ks and 1 4960X. Just lucky i guess.









_"The rest of us are users *buyers* (well, except two or three."_


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> well, I'm 3 for 3 with this issue: 2 4930Ks and 1 4960X. Just lucky i guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _"The rest of us are users *buyers* (well, except two or three."_


I don't buy hardware. I get it for free in exchange for reviews.







Don't exclude me, man!









Raja said long ago that my ES board is slightly different for memory than retail, so maybe that's why? I dunno. But I do have one chip that does 2400 no problem, the other is like yours. I can also make this happen on any divider, by turning on XMP, and then disabling it and going fully manual. Getting proper bandwidth at that point requires a CMOS clear.

Maybe try re-flashing the BIOS? Fixed most of the issues for me that I had earlier....


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't posting that for you benefit, Mr Man. You're paid ASUS staff, you have to help in some ways. The rest of us are users (well, except two or three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> BTW... VII HERO feels like the new Formula, and I love it. Deluxe goodies take up more box than the board. Uh..


I will have to get used to the concept of quoting one person while writing a response for others then









Currently running the Deluxe at home - it's good.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I will have to get used to the concept of quoting one person while writing a response for others then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently running the Deluxe at home - it's good.


Sorry, that's my monkey brain.









So you know my issues with the Deluxe and OC. Is it gonna stay that way? (not that I mind, but you know how that's going to pan out)

(sorry for OT, but I had to ask, since you know, I gotta write something about it, and soon).


----------



## phygar

What makes this board worth so much?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> *I don't buy hardware. I get it for free in exchange for reviews*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't exclude me, man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Raja said long ago that my ES board is slightly different for memory than retail, so maybe that's why? I dunno. But I do have one chip that does 2400 no problem, the other is like yours. I can also make this happen on any divider, by turning on XMP, and then disabling it and going fully manual. Getting proper bandwidth at that point requires a CMOS clear.
> Maybe try re-flashing the BIOS? Fixed most of the issues for me that I had earlier....


well, "buyers" means ... Buyers.









Yeah, I did a reflash a week or so ago, unfortunately it did not resolve the issue in a durable manner. Like I said, I can kludge it and make it work with the proper thru-put when I need to. Just can't restart, and that's a PIA during some bench events.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phygar*
> 
> What makes this board worth so much?


It's RIVE with better audio, tuned memory layout, OC panel and more options in BIOS for OC. RIVE has proven itself over time, and personally I feel that RIVBE is better all around than RIVE.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> well, "buyers" means ... Buyers.


Shush. I bought my third board, when I thought I screwed up my ES.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's RIVE with better audio, tuned memory layout, OC panel and more options in BIOS for OC. RIVE has proven itself over time, and personally I feel that RIVBE is better all around than RIVE.
> Shush. I bought my third board, when I thought I screwed up my ES.


The RIVE audio is good enough to me. More OC option in the BIOS? May I ask which one.








I must admit, the EZ_plug placement on the BE is much more practical and better for a cleaner build. Not that I own one, but I've been following since those boards have a lot of similarity and I might need the tips here and there for Ivy-E OC.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Sorry, that's my monkey brain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you know my issues with the Deluxe and OC. Is it gonna stay that way? (not that I mind, but you know how that's going to pan out)
> 
> (sorry for OT, but I had to ask, since you know, I gotta write something about it, and soon).


Have no idea what you are talking about there, as your contact windows is totally different and all that stuff does not get relayed to me...

Curiously someone else based here in the US contacted me for a Deluxe and said he was going to review it for your site...


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Have no idea what you are talking about there, as your contact windows is totally different and all that stuff does not get relayed to me...
> 
> Curiously someone else based here in the US contacted me for a Deluxe and said he was going to review it for your site...


Interesting... and thanks. It is just me doing board reviews, AFAIK, if the email didn't come from a TPU email address...well...

We should talk more, methinks. dave_at_techpowerup.com. Me and our cooler reviewer are the only US-based reviewers, everyone else is EU, and no one does boards but me currently. So you've got a troll. I very happily post on our site and appear as non-staff. But we posted my IMPACT review yesterday...

Anyway, [H] covered the voltage thing w/4770K, so what I am referring to is already out in public space.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> The RIVE audio is good enough to me. More OC option in the BIOS? May I ask which one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must admit, the EZ_plug placement on the BE is much more practical and better for a cleaner build. Not that I own one, but I've been following since those boards have a lot of similarity and I might need the tips here and there for Ivy-E OC.


I've posted screenshots of most BIOS pages in my own review so that things like options could be compared. And yeah, I gotta give ASUS credit for delivering on the RIVBE. RIVE was fantastic, still is, just recently got to play with one pretty extensively. For some reason, I prefer the Black, and audio and options and the OC panel are the obvious things that stick out. I think RIVBE can be better for memory OC, too, but I haven't spent as much time clocking ram on RIVE as RIVBE.


----------



## Kimir

I goes to look at them all screens of bios and only seen My favorite, wifi, ROG effects, SSD secure erase and OC panel to differ (added in fact), other OC options are the same to me. the software suite is updated as well.
The 100€ more wasn't appealing to me (and at the time I bought my Ivy-E proc and board it was out of stock everywhere), even if the OC Panel for LN2 seems quite handy
(when you see the price of a Fluke







). But I'm not yet there anyway and I don't mind a little red in my build.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> well, "buyers" means ... Buyers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I did a reflash a week or so ago, unfortunately it did not resolve the issue in a durable manner. Like I said, I can kludge it and make it work with the proper thru-put when I need to. Just can't restart, and that's a PIA during some bench events.


I have compared every page of memtweakit on good or bad speed at 2400 and they are exactly the same. The quick fix if to power up with ram at 2133, enter bios and set it back to 2400 then save. Maybe power up VCCSA voltage changes could make that go away?

@cadaveca Can you post a link to that review?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I have compared every page of memtweakit on good or bad speed at 2400 and they are exactly the same. The quick fix if to power up with ram at 2133, enter bios and set it back to 2400 then save. Maybe power up VCCSA voltage changes could make that go away?
> 
> @cadaveca Can you post a link to that review?


I don't feel it is a good idea for me to link my stuff, but I'll send in PM no problem. I'm not posting here looking for extra traffic.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

I've been having some issues lately.

My pc for some reason keeps booting up, when its been turned off.

Est. time between turn off and boot is about 20 min.

Specs:

R4BE
4930k.
780 Ti x2
AX1200i
Dominator 2400 Mhz ram (4 x 4 gb)

Some says its a setting in the bios.
What setting? What tab?

All hardware is less than 4 months old.
Cpu is not overheating... well... Its turned off.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> I've been having some issues lately.
> 
> My pc for some reason keeps booting up, when its been turned off.
> 
> Est. time between turn off and boot is about 20 min.
> 
> Specs:
> 
> R4BE
> 4930k.
> 780 Ti x2
> AX1200i
> Dominator 2400 Mhz ram (4 x 4 gb)
> 
> Some says its a setting in the bios.
> What setting? What tab?
> 
> All hardware is less than 4 months old.
> Cpu is not overheating... well... Its turned off.


Full shut down or sleep mode?

Be sure to disable things like "wake on Lan" etc.


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Full shut down or sleep mode?
> 
> Be sure to disable things like "wake on Lan" etc.


I go onto Full Shutdown.

Wake up on lan... Where do i find that in BIOS?
Oh, and dosen't it require a lan cable to be plugged in?


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> I go onto Full Shutdown.
> 
> Wake up on lan... Where do i find that in BIOS?
> Oh, and dosen't it require a lan cable to be plugged in?


There's also wakeup from PCI or USB in there. Bad PSU can also glitch the board and make it power up (or fry)


----------



## Asus11

still not sure if I should pull the trigger on this board.. have a 4930k still lying around but still dont know which way to go..sell the 4930k? or get this board.. not sure :\ I know im going to spend tons when that board is bought, as it will be a must to get the ek block for it lol

not sure if I will see a performance increase from going 4930k.. with the sli 780s overclocked


----------



## Jpmboy

"There's also wakeup from PCI or USB in there. Bad PSU can also glitch the board and make it power up (or fry)"

^^this. A bad case switch too. Is the restart fairly regular in time since power off?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> still not sure if I should pull the trigger on this board.. have a 4930k still lying around but still dont know which way to go..sell the 4930k? or get this board.. not sure :\ I know im going to spend tons when that board is bought, as it will be a must to get the ek block for it lol
> 
> not sure if I will see a performance increase from going 4930k.. with the sli 780s overclocked


this board compared to which other?


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> this board compared to which other?


get this board & switch to x79 or sell the 4930k & ram and stick to x58, check my rig in sig, not sure how much performance I will get from the upgrade
& would I get better fps due to better cpu etc


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> get this board & switch to x79 or sell the 4930k & ram and stick to x58, check my rig in sig, not sure how much performance I will get from the upgrade
> & would I get better fps due to better cpu etc


I read this before deciding.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1461359/xeon-x5660-x58-full-review-comparison-to-x79-high-end-cpus-and-xeon-l5639-benchmarks-inside-longest-post-ever


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> get this board & switch to x79 or sell the 4930k & ram and stick to x58, check my rig in sig, not sure how much performance I will get from the upgrade
> & would I get better fps due to better cpu etc


Assuming you have that 5650 overclocked as far as you can go, (like the 2000 ram you're running) you won't get a big increase with x79 unless you start using 3 (or 4) GPUs. Wait for the next architecture.
I skipped the x58 chipset and squeezed extra life out of my QX9650.. which still runs strong! (I currently run 775, 1150 and 2011 right next to each other







)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Reason they run better is the ti draw alot of power from the pcie lane in addition to the 6 pin and 8 pin it was a discussion we had when the ti first came out on the ti official thread. They had caused apparent rumors of pcie lanes being burned up because of the power draw.


and we busted that rumor WIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDE open. Chip Hell is a moron. They provided pictures of a blown up 7970, & called it a 780Ti. It how ever did coincide with Gigabyte putting the serial number sticker in the wrong place, causing GPUs to short out, which didn't help. Gigabyte recalled all of those cards & stated that none of them were actually damaged, & that the sticker guy got fired. (though i'm pretty sure the sticker "guy" is probably a machine)


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> and we busted that rumor WIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDE open. Chip Hell is a moron. They provided pictures of a blown up 7970, & called it a 780Ti. It how ever did coincide with Gigabyte putting the serial number sticker in the wrong place, causing GPUs to short out, which didn't help. Gigabyte recalled all of those cards & stated that none of them were actually damaged, & that the sticker guy got fired. (though i'm pretty sure the sticker "guy" is probably a machine)


Probably was a machine. Yea I remember the rumor but it does pull power from the pcie lanes I didnt think it would be enough to melt it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Probably was a machine. Yea I remember the rumor but it does pull power from the pcie lanes I didnt think it would be enough to melt it.


Catastrophic failure could definitely lead to many GPUs melting the PCI-E lane, but we later found out that Tahiti has been known to do this exact thing when the fan breaks, and or WATER gets spilled on the PCI-E lane. IDK if you saw the photos, but it look like someone jammed a paperclip into the socket while the GPU was plugged in.


----------



## Shadowarez

If those 7970's can do it imagine 4 295x2's in mining rigs.


----------



## skupples

In all fairness, i'm sure both company's would have melt down issues if you spilled water on the PCI-E while pushing 300-400W through your GPU.

The point was that Chiphell editor's were on a smear campaign, & the thread magically vanished as soon as people from OCN started posting evidence that they were trying to pass off dead AMD cards as 780Tis.


----------



## Shadowarez

Lol that gif reminds me of what would happen when my Evga Super Nova Nex 1500watt gives out.


----------



## skupples




----------



## asfgbdnf

Does anyone experience some problems when setting the VTT DDR to a specific value rather than leaving it to AUTO?
The new value seems be accepted in BIOS setting, however after reboot, the VTT DDR is actually set to 0.75 no matter what number you used during BIOS settings.
If leave it to AUTO, VTT DDR is set to V_Dimm*0.5.
I confirm the same problem also exists on R4E board.
@R[email protected]


----------



## SirWaWa

http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/ek_asus_rampage_vi_black_edition_aio_water_cooling_solution.html

I'll just leave this here


----------



## skupples

I need some advice. I got an 8 pin extension cable for my PSU>>>Mobo 8 pin. The header for the PSU + extension fits, but the header that connects into the motherboard doesn't fit. Wire gauge is the same size, pinning is the same layout. This means I should have no issues filing it down to make it fit, correct?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seyumi*
> 
> So I literally just browsed all the pictures from the 774 pages on this thread and I did not see a single person attempt to use a PCIE 1x ribbon on one of the two PCIE 1x slots to run a soundcard with 4 way SLI water-cooling. This should be possible right? Screw the SC into the 9th+ expansion bracket and run a cable in-between the GPUs? I realize aesthetics would be shot but I'm just curious if there is something physically or electronically stopping something like that from happening? I can't even find anything showing this happening in a google search regardless of the motherboard/GPUs. I know the PCIE 1x slots don't share the same lanes as the GPU so there shouldn't be any conflicts. Are the GPU water blocks too thick and still somewhat cover the PCIE 1x slots? Always been a fan of dedicated sound cards but literally just one click a way from going 4 way SLI water cooling to power the incoming 4K monitors and next-gen games.


yes it has been done and has worked without issue
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Should be doable, but you're going to lose one lane of PCI-E, which is already stretched thin in a 4xSLI config. That's probably why you're not finding examples of it out there. But if you want to go that route, I don't see any reason you couldn't.




no they wont, the x1 slots are not connected to the pcie 3.0 as they are pcie 2.0.

I'll just leave this here[/quote]

dear god i love it !!! i would totally buy that me thinks but idk yet... looks so amazing [email protected] i love full cover blocks besides they are one use only !!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I need some advice. I got an 8 pin extension cable for my PSU>>>Mobo 8 pin. The header for the PSU + extension fits, but the header that connects into the motherboard doesn't fit. Wire gauge is the same size, pinning is the same layout. This means I should have no issues filing it down to make it fit, correct?


does it not fit because of the connector pinout form faftor or because there is something that would otherwise be outside the contacts? Be sure that it is not an EPS extension. what needs filing?


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I have a small problem with the chip Realtek Audio of R4BE
Depending on the version of the Realtek drivers that I installed the "volume" of the sound is less strong

If I install the 6.0.1.7188 (by the device manager), the sound is good
But all versions after 7188, the sound is really more lower, without touching any setting

Someone have installed drivers after 7188?
A specific setting to do after 7188?

Thanks for your help


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> does it not fit because of the connector pinout form faftor or because there is something that would otherwise be outside the contacts? Be sure that it is not an EPS extension. what needs filing?


I'm pretty sure it's a GPU 8 pin extension. The only thing that didn't fit was the top left. square peg, round hole. I thought EPS was the correct extension? It is the only other 8 pin iv'e seen when looking @ extensions. The system boots & runs just fine now that iv'e cut the plastic back.

(gauge is the same, & pin count is the same, but the plastic connector doesn't conform)


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's a GPU 8 pin extension. The only thing that didn't fit was the top left. square peg, round hole. I thought EPS was the correct extension? It is the only other 8 pin iv'e seen when looking @ extensions. The system boots & runs just fine now that iv'e cut the plastic back.
> 
> (gauge is the same, & pin count is the same, but the plastic connector doesn't conform)


F CPU has 8pin PCIE *EPS* extensions. that's what the mobo socket is for. that's the difference between eps and pcie. that one peg. And the positive/negative wire config.








you should pull that plug, unless you shoved it in upside down. check the pic i posted.

edit : note correction.


----------



## skupples

What a pain in the arse.

thx, JP.


----------



## MNiceGuy

Hey guys,

I have an interesting problem. After a little tinkering (on the advice given in this thread) I basically feel I have my system totally stable. Games are buttery smooth and no more rogue BSODs. There is one catch however. Yesterday I was using the board's built-in Wi-Fi to download some Steam games and after a couple hours it froze the system. I had to do a hard reset to get things back going again. When it rebooted I got the "overclocking failed" message even though I am still running at stock settings. This happened the last time I used the Wi-Fi for an extended period of time. For what it's worth, it seems that the Steam network encountered a little downtime right at the time this happened so it is reasonable to assume the download stopped.

Normally I use the LAN port on this machine to access our ridiculously expensive and seriously data-capped rural internet. When I do a large download I attach via Wi-Fi to a hotspot which is much more forgiving of data limits.

What I just can't seem to wrap my head around is why this Wi-Fi bug, if that's what truly is the cause, is happening. The system has been up for the better part of a week with not even the slightest issue. No game crashes. I've stressed tested and benchmarked (IBT, P95, looped 3DMark11, etc.) to Valhalla and back but it simply will not give up the goose.

Has anyone else had this trouble?

Thanks


----------



## [email protected]

If you hold down the power button for four seconds to power down the system, it will trigger safe POST on next power up and display the overclocking failed message. This is a mechanism we purposely put into place to help the the board POST in case a parameter has been set wrongly in UEFI. It seems like a misnomer to get that message, but it is in fact normal to do so given how the mechanism works.

-Raja


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> If you hold down the power button for four seconds to power down the system, it will trigger safe POST on next power up and display the overclocking failed message. This is a mechanism we purposely put into place to help the the board POST in case a parameter has been set wrongly in UEFI. It seems like a misnomer to get that message, but it is in fact normal to do so given how the mechanism works.
> 
> -Raja


Hi Raja,

I'm experiencing some problems when setting the VTT DDR to a specific value rather than leaving it to AUTO.
The new value seems be accepted in BIOS setting, however after reboot, the VTT DDR is actually set to 0.75 no matter what number you used in BIOS.
If leave it to AUTO, VTT DDR is set to V_Dimm*0.5.
I confirm the same problem also exists on R4E board. Is it possible to fix the problem in future BIOS release?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What a pain in the arse.
> 
> thx, JP.


u b welcome

just to be clear, you are plugging in to the mobo 8 pin right next to the CPU, yes? (there is an 8 and 4 pin right next to each other) Both are EPS only, not compatible with the PCIE config at all: pins and polarity. I havd to use a EPS sxtension in the TJ09 case, they are available most everywhere. You do not want a PCIE extension for that plug.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> If you hold down the power button for four seconds to power down the system, it will trigger safe POST on next power up and display the overclocking failed message. This is a mechanism we purposely put into place to help the the board POST in case a parameter has been set wrongly in UEFI. It seems like a misnomer to get that message, but it is in fact normal to do so given how the mechanism works.
> 
> -Raja


I would like to thank you for that. One of the many reasons i love asus mobos.

Almost up and running. It is ugly as sin atm. Which is fine. I only am going to deal with it till wed (in reality next weekend until I have time to redo everything and put blocks on 290xs and new rads in ) just have to finish routing tube and wires. Then I gets test quad 290xs







... starting to get the benching bug


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have an interesting problem. After a little tinkering (on the advice given in this thread) I basically feel I have my system totally stable. Games are buttery smooth and no more rogue BSODs. There is one catch however. Yesterday I was using the board's built-in Wi-Fi to download some Steam games and after a couple hours it froze the system. I had to do a hard reset to get things back going again. When it rebooted I got the "overclocking failed" message even though I am still running at stock settings. This happened the last time I used the Wi-Fi for an extended period of time. For what it's worth, it seems that the Steam network encountered a little downtime right at the time this happened so it is reasonable to assume the download stopped.
> 
> Normally I use the LAN port on this machine to access our ridiculously expensive and seriously data-capped rural internet. When I do a large download I attach via Wi-Fi to a hotspot which is much more forgiving of data limits.
> 
> What I just can't seem to wrap my head around is why this Wi-Fi bug, if that's what truly is the cause, is happening. The system has been up for the better part of a week with not even the slightest issue. No game crashes. I've stressed tested and benchmarked (IBT, P95, looped 3DMark11, etc.) to Valhalla and back but it simply will not give up the goose.
> 
> Has anyone else had this trouble?
> 
> Thanks


There's an updated WIFI driver on april 10th on the ASUS site for the R4BE. Did you pick it up? Which OS are you running?
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/HelpDesk_Download/


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> u b welcome
> 
> just to be clear, you are plugging in to the mobo 8 pin right next to the CPU, yes? (there is an 8 and 4 pin right next to each other) Both are EPS only, not compatible with the PCIE config at all: pins and polarity. I havd to use a EPS sxtension in the TJ09 case, they are available most everywhere. You do not want a PCIE extension for that plug.


Correct. Got the EPS ordered. got everything running w/ the stock cables, it just completely breaks my PSU placement, for now. The other issue is the god damned corsair 24 pin, it is about 2 inches too short to stash it where I want it.


----------



## Mega Man

Self made cables? Then no need for extensions


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> There's an updated WIFI driver on april 10th on the ASUS site for the R4BE. Did you pick it up? Which OS are you running?
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/HelpDesk_Download/


Windows Home Premium x64

I am almost certain I grabbed the updated driver. Once I got the OS installed I went to Asus to get the latest drivers for everything.

Is it likely a driver issue then?

Honestly I have this thing to the point where the only time it acts up is when using the Wi-Fi. As I mentioned there is not a game or stress test that I have tried so far, at any setting, that will show any signs of instability.

Now that I think of it, the only issue I had with installing the drivers was the Wi-Fi driver. On the first try it installed and Windows recognized the adapter but it would not detect an AP that was only a couple feet away. I uninstalled from Device Manager and tried again. The second time I was able to see and connect to the networks here. Related? I suppose I could try uninstalling and reinstalling again.

EDIT:

I almost forgot. The wireless network being used at the time was probably pretty touch-and-go. Think 4G hotspot on the cusp of service/no service. Not sure if the matters.

Thanks by the way for all the help I've gotten from various people in this thread so far. You're life-savers..no...rather sanity-savers!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Correct. Got the EPS ordered. got everything running w/ the stock cables, it just completely breaks my PSU placement, for now. The other issue is the god damned corsair 24 pin, it is about 2 inches too short to stash it where I want it.


Are you going to use both the 4pin and 8pin? Plus the molex for the gpu on the bottom?

I don't see a reason why not to, the power delivery circuitry of the cpu and gpu is most likely smart enough not to draw power to the point it explodes, and the board to not give power to the point where it starts to melt lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I have a small problem with the chip Realtek Audio of R4BE
> Depending on the version of the Realtek drivers that I installed the "volume" of the sound is less strong
> 
> If I install the 6.0.1.7188 (by the device manager), the sound is good
> But all versions after 7188, the sound is really more lower, without touching any setting
> 
> Someone have installed drivers after 7188?
> A specific setting to do after 7188?
> 
> Thanks for your help


All the versions on the ASUS site seem buggy, they all have different issues.

What I do is just google "realtek hd audio", go to their download site (first link), then click on HD audio codecs, and download it. It gives you 24bit @192KHz output for stereo/headphones and surround sound dts encodes if you have it going to a receiver over the SPDIF.

The max volume will change if you use hardware with different impedance, but if you're using a single device then the drivers are at fault.


----------



## ozzy1925

Hello,is it too late to buy this motherboard ?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Hello,is it too late to buy this motherboard ?


No, it's not discontinued, if that's what you meant.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> No, it's not discontinued, if that's what you meant.


i mean as i read x99 platform is coming very soon.Should i wait for it?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Self made cables? Then no need for extensions


I R Lazy. Good news is that I have doubles of every cable I need, so I can take my time customizing the lengths & sleeving them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i mean as i read x99 platform is coming very soon.Should i wait for it?


I normally don't give this type of advice, but in this situation YES. I would 100% wait for X99, simply for TRIM support if nothing else.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I normally don't give this type of advice, but in this situation YES. I would 100% wait for X99, simply for TRIM support if nothing else.


thanks ,i know this is not the right place but I bought 3x290 sapphire cards and i sold my motherboard which was msi m power max .I still have delided 4770k.I was thinking of buying new asus z97 vii extreme and tri way crossifre but i think the vii extreme wont be here soon.Should i wait for the new asus extreme also would like to know will my cpu bottleneck my set up 3x 27inch monitors?Or dont bother just get x99?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks ,i know this is not the right place but I bought 3x290 sapphire cards and i sold my motherboard which was msi m power max .I still have delided 4770k.I was thinking of buying new asus z97 vii extreme and tri way crossifre but i think the vii extreme wont be here soon.Should i wait for the new asus extreme also would like to know will my cpu bottleneck my set up 3x 27inch monitors?Or dont bother just get x99?


X99 is the best choice if you can wait until the end of the year. The Maximus Vi Extreme is the second best choice (by making use of your 4770k) The board has a PLX chip which voids needing the 40 native lanes. I'm 100% underwhelmed by the Z97 specs, minus the SATA-E, but i'm not sure how it is going to make use of PCI-E lanes. Will it use the 2.0 lanes that drive to the chipset, or will it use the 3.0 lanes that drive to the CPU? Anyways... I would make use of your existing 4770k w/ Z87 if you are in a hurry to get up & running.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> X99 is the best choice if you can wait until the end of the year. The Maximus Vi Extreme is the second best choice (by making use of your 4770k) The board has a PLX chip which voids needing the 40 native lanes. I'm 100% underwhelmed by the Z97 specs, minus the SATA-E, but i'm not sure how it is going to make use of PCI-E lanes. Will it use the 2.0 lanes that drive to the chipset, or will it use the 3.0 lanes that drive to the CPU? Anyways... I would make use of your existing 4770k w/ Z87 if you are in a hurry to get up & running.


thanks again,i was told the new VII extreme will be announced @computex which will be 1 month later i think iwill wait 1 more month and decide


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks again,i was told the new VII extreme will be announced @computex which will be 1 month later i think iwill wait 1 more month and decide


Sounds good. Computex announcement usually means another 1-2 months for release. By the way, *avoid pre-ordering from NCIX.*


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> By the way, *avoid pre-ordering from NCIX.*


----------



## skupples

sigh... I guess it was bound to happen eventually. Got the beast up & running. Boot loops @ stock, USB headers acting up, & yeah.... Just bumped up OCP to 140%, will see how that pans out. Going to take it slow, I spilled water on the board a few times, but that was weeks ago & I cleansed it quite thoroughly w/ 99% rubbing alcohol.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> All the versions on the ASUS site seem buggy, they all have different issues.
> 
> What I do is just google "realtek hd audio", go to their download site (first link), then click on HD audio codecs, and download it. It gives you 24bit @192KHz output for stereo/headphones and surround sound dts encodes if you have it going to a receiver over the SPDIF.
> 
> The max volume will change if you use hardware with different impedance, but if you're using a single device then the drivers are at fault.


Thanks for your reply

I use a Kit Logitech 2.1.
When I tested different drivers, I do not change any setting and I compare with the Microsoft drivers.


----------



## cadaveca

I do believe the default gain boost setting in driver changed, I did notice the same as you.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I do believe the default gain boost setting in driver changed, I did notice the same as you.


It's for me? If yes
You've seen the same problem?
What drivers do you use?

Thanks


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> It's for me? If yes
> You've seen the same problem?
> What drivers do you use?
> 
> Thanks


This one:



It's only analogue audio that I experienced this.


----------



## tistou77

Ok thanks


----------



## tistou77

What is the driver "SonicRadar"?
Because I installs the drivers by the device manager, this driver does not install

Thanks


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> What is the driver "SonicRadar"?
> Because I installs the drivers by the device manager, this driver does not install
> 
> Thanks


they are part of the realtek suite which comes on the disk & can be found on the ASUS website.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> they are part of the realtek suite which comes on the disk & can be found on the ASUS website.


And they are really useful or not with a kit Logitech 2.1?

Thanks


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> And they are really useful or not with a kit Logitech 2.1?
> 
> Thanks


Sonic Radar is a on-screen visual representation of directional sounds. You get a little "radar" panel that shows you which direction sound is coming from, doesn't affect sound quality at all.


----------



## skupples

Sonic Radar is hot garbage in the summer sun.


----------



## davisl279

Add me. Thanks


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Sonic Radar is a on-screen visual representation of directional sounds. You get a little "radar" panel that shows you which direction sound is coming from, doesn't affect sound quality at all.


Yes thanks, I do a search on google after posting








Not the use of having this app


----------



## [email protected]

There are some gamers out there that are hard of hearing or deaf - not many but there are some out there. Made them happy to have Sonic Radar available.


----------



## tistou77

Yes, absolutely. It's not useful for me


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> There are some gamers out there that are hard of hearing or deaf - not many but there are some out there. Made them happy to have Sonic Radar available.


Hi Raja,

I'm experiencing some problems when setting the VTT DDR to a specific value rather than leaving it to AUTO.
The new value seems be accepted in BIOS setting, however after reboot, the VTT DDR is actually set to 0.75 no matter what number you used in BIOS.
If leave it to AUTO, VTT DDR is set to V_Dimm*0.5.
I confirm the same problem also exists on R4E board. Is it possible to fix the problem in future BIOS release?


----------



## [email protected]

VTT DDR adjustment is not needed on this platform, that's why I'm not bothered by it not showing the value you have set. It does set the value, just the table does not show it. Not going to waste time on stuff like this, sorry.


----------



## Jpmboy

anyone have a link to info on x99?


----------



## iPEN

Hi guys,

Yesterday my PC suddenly shutdown and after a restart I received an "Asus Surge Protection" message at BIOS post.

It seems that my PSU is not doing so good; but It is the first time I experience this issue, and since it didn`t happen again, I`m a bit confused. I was monitoring the +12v, +5v and +3,3v lines for a couple of hours and everything went fine...

What do you think?

The system was not under a high load, I was playing Diablo 3 with just one monitor, the main GPU at 40%, the other in 2D mode, and the CPU without any OC. I discard also any issue with my electrical setup, since my PC is connected through a UPS device.

I would apreciate any suggestion. My PSU is a CM Silent Pro Gold 1000W.

Thanks!!!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPEN*
> 
> Hi guys,
> Yesterday my PC suddenly shutdown and after a restart I received an "Asus Surge Protection" message at BIOS post.
> It seems that my PSU is not doing so good; but It is the first time I experience this issue, and since it didn`t happen again, I`m a bit confused. I was monitoring the +12v, +5v and +3,3v lines for a couple of hours and everything went fine...
> What do you think?
> The system was not under a high load, I was playing Diablo 3 with just one monitor, the main GPU at 40%, the other in 2D mode, and the CPU without any OC. I discard also any issue with my electrical setup, since my PC is connected through a UPS device.
> I would apreciate any suggestion. My PSU is a CM Silent Pro Gold 1000W.
> Thanks!!!


IDK, Maybe cadaveca or Raja know what triggers the on-board surge suppression.


----------



## Ajay57

This might be the correct advice, but i have disabled mine here in my Bios, due to what i have read else where it can be affected by Oveclocking!!

But before you decide to do anything please get this double checked first.
















Regards,

AJ.


----------



## DBaer

Any of you running your RIVBE with an AX1200i PSU? The fan on my AX1200i never runs except during boot. Every once in a while I can see it twitch but it never runs. I have tried loading everything heavily, Prime 95 and Valley at the same time and still no fan spin. It seems like I should be pulling enough to make the fan spin up once in a while. The average temp inside my case is 80F.
Any comments?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Any of you running your RIVBE with an AX1200i PSU? The fan on my AX1200i never runs except during boot. Every once in a while I can see it twitch but it never runs. I have tried loading everything heavily, Prime 95 and Valley at the same time and still no fan spin. It seems like I should be pulling enough to make the fan spin up once in a while. The average temp inside my case is 80F.
> Any comments?


iirc the fan on the 1200i is load-based, not temp based, and isn't supposed to spin at all until you've hit at least ~30% load (~360watts). If you've got more of a load on it than that then maybe something is wrong. I also seem to recall it has a test feature/button/led or some such that should spin the fan for a few seconds and light up green if everything's working as it should.

Might want to consult the Corsair forums for better advice.


----------



## DBaer

Yes, understood, but I think I must be pulling at least that much load especially when running Valley benchmark. I know the fan is OK as it spins up during boot which it its test stage.
Oh well, everything is running great. .....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Are you running the corsair link? Doesn't that software give you any control over the 1200i's fan? That would also tell you what kind of load you have on it too I believe.


----------



## DBaer

That could be the issue. I am not running Corsair Link as I am low on USB ports on the Mobo. that would be my next step. I did write to Corsair and they have not responded as yet.


----------



## Mega Man

i bet the fan is temp biased

My biggest complaint about this. And every board. The headers are all at bottom of board (excluding usb3).

I know quad gpu is rate. .. but they always get in the way. Surely we could move them.

Any luck skupples? I really have not had an issue with this board. Even on my 3930k.

I busy dropped in my 8 gb sticks and they run as intended

Just had to set main timings and volts. Did not even have to touch cpu volts


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> IDK, Maybe cadaveca or Raja know what triggers the on-board surge suppression.


Can be a good idea to disable it for some PSUs or if the system is loaded with a lot of polling tools as it can create contention at the super IO.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Any of you running your RIVBE with an AX1200i PSU? The fan on my AX1200i never runs except during boot. Every once in a while I can see it twitch but it never runs. I have tried loading everything heavily, Prime 95 and Valley at the same time and still no fan spin. It seems like I should be pulling enough to make the fan spin up once in a while. The average temp inside my case is 80F.
> Any comments?


Nothing to worry about. The FAN will only spin when the PSUs internal temp is hot enough. You may think you're pulling enough current but you are not. It will spin when it needs to. I have used these PSUs quite a lot. What you are seeing is "normal".


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPEN*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Yesterday my PC suddenly shutdown and after a restart I received an "Asus Surge Protection" message at BIOS post.


Try connect psu direct without UPS and check all 24 and 8 pins atx connectors


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Can be a good idea to disable it for some PSUs or if the system is loaded with a lot of polling tools as it can create contention at the super IO.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Nothing to worry about. The FAN will only spin when the PSUs internal temp is hot enough. You may think you're pulling enough current but you are not. It will spin when it needs to. I have used these PSUs quite a lot. What you are seeing is "normal".


thx


----------



## Goggle Eye

Thank you OCN members for helping me to make a decision on what mother board and CPU to get.









Took some time worth the wait. Beautiful mother board. I7 4930K. Have not decided on the memory yet considering G-Skill 32 Gig @ 2400MHz 4 sticks x 8 gigs or 2100MHz.

Not over clocking the mem. Not planning on water cooling the mem. Any recommendations very much appreciated.


----------



## RJavier

I will highly recommend Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB 2133mhz kit - that's what I went with and they are working 100% right out of the box.


----------



## Kimir

nice gif, almost perfect loop!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> nice gif, almost perfect loop!


Assuming you mean RJavier's avatar image. By deleting a few frames to where the back fan lines up better I think it plays a lot smoother:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Original:





Or perhaps the blinking at the start / stop of the loop was intentional. I dunno. Just thought I'd play around with it a little


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Assuming you mean RJavier's avatar image. By deleting a few frames to where the back fan lines up better I think it plays a lot smoother:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Original:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or perhaps the blinking at the start / stop of the loop was intentional. I dunno. Just thought I'd play around with it a little


Yep, you did it, perfect loop. I always like perfect loop!









edit: oh I see, he edited his post, his avatar was the image he put on the topic at first.


----------



## extreme2012

I use gskill trident 2133 8gigs by 4


----------



## RJavier

YEAP...the blink was intentional - LOL...
I do like how the smooth one looks...thanks....I will use the smooth one as well.

Sorry - I edited the reply and the images posted since I wanted to show the Corsair image highlighting the RAM and not the animated gif of my rig









I JUST Changed my avatar...to your smooth edit -


----------



## iPEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centvalny*
> 
> Try connect psu direct without UPS and check all 24 and 8 pins atx connectors


Thanks. And what would be testing by doing this?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Can be a good idea to disable it for some PSUs or if the system is loaded with a lot of polling tools as it can create contention at the super IO.


Thak you. Could you please elaborate a bit more? Do you mean that 3rd party software may be causing this somehow overloading the system with so many querys?


----------



## [email protected]

With a lot of polling tools means: Using more than one tool that monitors the system for temps and voltages etc., third party or any other party.


----------



## iPEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> With a lot of polling tools means: Using more than one tool that monitors the system for temps and voltages etc., third party or any other party.


Ok thank you.

I'm using both Asus suite and Corsair Link. I also use EVGA Precission for the GPUs.

Never heard that this could be causing issues with the mobo, but I will take into account your advice and will make some test.

Regards,


----------



## [email protected]

It can cause issues. Values will either display wrongly (voltages, fan speeds and temps) or worse if there is any safety mech attached that monitors a given value it will trigger a fail event if the value breaches a given target.


----------



## iPEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> It can cause issues. Values will either display wrongly (voltages, fan speeds and temps) or worse if there is any safety mech attached that monitors a given value it will trigger a fail event if the value breaches a given target.


Understood

Thank you for clarifying


----------



## MNiceGuy

I use EVGA Precision for my graphics cards but I leave Link alone. Didn't exactly play nice with my system and personally I see very little benefit from it.


----------



## DBaer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Nothing to worry about. The FAN will only spin when the PSUs internal temp is hot enough. You may think you're pulling enough current but you are not. It will spin when it needs to. I have used these PSUs quite a lot. What you are seeing is "normal".


Thought so but I wanted some confirmation. Thanks


----------



## dephekted830

I was wondering if anyone had any information on the type of wiring in the Asus OC panel 18+1 pin data cable. It connects to the ROG_EXT bank, i just need it almost 90cm longer. Some custom work is indeed in store, just if anyone has tinkered at that level.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Any of you running your RIVBE with an AX1200i PSU? The fan on my AX1200i never runs except during boot. Every once in a while I can see it twitch but it never runs. I have tried loading everything heavily, Prime 95 and Valley at the same time and still no fan spin. It seems like I should be pulling enough to make the fan spin up once in a while. The average temp inside my case is 80F.
> Any comments?


I have the PSU, the fan is temp control and it will not come on until about 50-55 deg. if you download corsair link ( good luck if it works, very temple mental). You can control when it comes on.


----------



## Goggle Eye

I will highly recommend Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB 2133mhz kit - that's what I went with and they are working 100% right out of the box.

Sorry - I edited the reply and the images posted since I wanted to show the Corsair image highlighting the RAM and not the animated gif of my rig

No reason to apologize and thank you for the pics of the corsair and suggestion. realy like the Corsair had Dominator in the past.

Like the avatar not sure how you did it amazing?

I use gskill trident 2133 8gigs

Thanks for the recommendation read great information on the G skill Trident and the Z series.

I meant to say 2100MHz not 2000MHz

All I can find in Thailand is some 16 Gig Kits of Corsair, G Skill and something called Team Group never heard of them? Can I use 2 x 8 = 16 gigs and purchase two separate Kits if push comes to shove = 32 gigs from two separate kits? It is my understanding not good idea and only will work nine out of ten times if you have to do a RMA will only accept one kit?

Please if any one knows a reliable on line source or a store willing to make international shipments please help looking for 3 weeks for the quad kits. Need 32 gig kit quad channel 4 x 8 = 32 gigs or 8 x 8 = 64 gigs. Australia is close do not care what country USA Germany Europe as long as the source is reliable has to ship registerd such as FEDX for tracking purposes. When Goggle searching I get a lot of alibaba if I see alibaba one more time going to throw up, non since. New Egg or Tiger Direct will not ship to Thailand. Not familiar with any companies willing to ship international orders the ones finding have 16 gig kits only. sources on G Skill & Corsair Web Sight only has 16 gig kits.Need the mem fans as well since not going to liquid cool the mem. Not over clocking the mem. Please Please Help. It took 4 months just to get my hands on the RlVBE locally had to special order and the store can not get quad channel kits.

Thank You


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dephekted830*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had any information on the type of wiring in the Asus OC panel 18+1 pin data cable. It connects to the ROG_EXT bank, i just need it almost 90cm longer. Some custom work is indeed in store, just if anyone has tinkered at that level.


2.0mm 20 pin will work GL finding blanks for it,. then the other side a 20 pin 2.54 dupont connector ( mobo side ) if i am right, that is what i am going to try, but i will have a aviation to get it outside of my case, that is my plan


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> I will highly recommend Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB 2133mhz kit - that's what I went with and they are working 100% right out of the box.
> 
> Sorry - I edited the reply and the images posted since I wanted to show the Corsair image highlighting the RAM and not the animated gif of my rig
> 
> No reason to apologize and thank you for the pics of the corsair and suggestion. realy like the Corsair had Dominator in the past.
> 
> Like the avatar not sure how you did it amazing?
> 
> I use gskill trident 2133 8gigs
> 
> Thanks for the recommendation read great information on the G skill Trident and the Z series.
> 
> I meant to say 2100MHz not 2000MHz
> 
> All I can find in Thailand is some 16 Gig Kits of Corsair, G Skill and something called Team Group never heard of them? Can I use 2 x 8 = 16 gigs and purchase two separate Kits if push comes to shove = 32 gigs from two separate kits? It is my understanding not good idea and only will work nine out of ten times if you have to do a RMA will only accept one kit?
> 
> Please if any one knows a reliable on line source or a store willing to make international shipments please help looking for 3 weeks for the quad kits. Need 32 gig kit quad channel 4 x 8 = 32 gigs or 8 x 8 = 64 gigs. Australia is close do not care what country USA Germany Europe as long as the source is reliable has to ship registerd such as FEDX for tracking purposes. When Goggle searching I get a lot of alibaba if I see alibaba one more time going to throw up, non since. New Egg or Tiger Direct will not ship to Thailand. Not familiar with any companies willing to ship international orders the ones finding have 16 gig kits only. sources on G Skill & Corsair Web Sight only has 16 gig kits.Need the mem fans as well since not going to liquid cool the mem. Not over clocking the mem. Please Please Help. It took 4 months just to get my hands on the RlVBE locally had to special order and the store can not get quad channel kits.
> 
> Thank You


As for mixing Ram Sets its a NO on this Mobo i have found out myself here, it can cause random Crashes!!

You really need 4 x 4 = 16 GB or 4 x 8 = 32 GB to make the Quad Channel work properly for you, but the higher amount of Memory installed the bigger the strain on your IMC!!

So if you could manage with 16 GB this would help you when it comes to Overclocking your Motherboard + CPU, as for the memory i would go for G.Skill as that really works for me here!

This would my choice 2133 Mhz as this seems to be the SWEET SPOT for the Mobo + CPU'S and is what i am using here, also you can get the same set in 32 GB!!





As you can see also they colour match with the black of the Mobo as well!

You can try these 2 PC Outlets here in the UK to see if they will ship anything to Thailand!!

1, http://www.overclockers.co.uk/

2, http://www.scan.co.uk/

Good Luck i hope you can find what you want and they will ship it to you, kind regards,

AJ.


----------



## xarot

Hmm I didn't quite understand if he would like to buy a Corsair kit or not. If yes, have you tried to buy directly from Corsair?







Don't know about shipping costs though. I am using Dominator-GT 4x8 GB 1866 kit on this mobo and it is fine, I don't overclock RAM or anything like that.

http://www.corsair.com/en/shop


----------



## Goggle Eye

Both of you a big







You made my day.

AJ Just sent you a P.M..

Thanks for the links saved them to my favorites.

XAROT Hmm I didn't quite understand if he would like to buy a Corsair kit or not.

Didn't mean to confuse you, " either or" does not matter not overclocking the mem or water cooling the mem. Do I need the fans for the MEM?

Always purchased direct form Corsair when state side. From Thailand cannot get the purchase direct option to open? Used Explorer and Firefox. Cleaned the system.

The rest of the build can get from Hank at PPC, Aqua Computer and E.K..


----------



## Ajay57

Sorry to say no PM here, as i have nothing in my inbox, but OK on the help!!
















Regards,

AJ.


----------



## tistou77

About my problem with driver of Realtek Audio

I tested the 7240 (latest official and WHQL drivers and available on the Realtek site) and the sound is lower (as previous) compared to 7188, I feel that even the Microsoft driver is lower than the 7188

I compared the files

With 7188

C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository => hdxrt.inf_amd64_neutral_xxxxxxxxxx (122 files)

C:\Program Files\Realtek\Audio\HDA (21 files)

With 7240

C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository => hdxrog.inf_amd64_neutral_xxxxxxxxx (32 files)

C:\Program Files\Realtek\Audio\HDA (7 files)

If with the latest drivers I activate the "loudness equalization", The sound is louder but not as much as the 7188
With 7188, I enabled, The sound is even harder...

Even if the latest drivers are not the best, I try to understand the problem


----------



## Ajay57

Well if that's the case then reload with 7188 and be happy, so long as it works for you!!









Sometimes you do not need to load the latest drivers if they is no big advantage.

Same goes for the Bios as well if it works well enough and there is no big up grade then keep the same one, but that is just me here!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Well if that's the case then reload with 7188 and be happy, so long as it works for you!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes you do not need to load the latest drivers if they is no big advantage.
> 
> Same goes for the Bios as well if it works well enough and there is no big up grade then keep the same one, but that is just me here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Yes, absolutely.
But with the latest drivers, I earn 300MB of disk space


----------



## Mega Man

fedex came with my komodos and blocks/rads ( 4x480s







RIVBE block ) but he didnt leave them i need to sign for them :/


----------



## Gualichu04

I am having a major issue wherei can't use xmp at all with the g.skill ripjaws z 32GB 2133mhz CL9 ram on either profile one or two it will just crash or hang and I have to force reboot it. The cpu is at stock. The specs for the rig are from my 2nd rig minus one gpu. So i have 2133mhz ram running at 1600mhz atm and I paid for 2133mhz memory not 1600.


----------



## [email protected]

2133 depends on IMC as well. You may need to tune some of the secondary and third DRAM timings and VCCSA.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> 2133 depends on IMC as well. You may need to tune some of the secondary and third DRAM timings and VCCSA.


Never had an intel chip before so it's all new to me. So my imc may not be even strong enoguh to run 2133mhz at CL9. if so thats a bummer and no idea how to tune ram or the vccsa. Its all new to me. It used ot only crash under load such as a game but, now with xmp it will go to desktop then freeze.


----------



## [email protected]

It may not be strong enough to run it at the timings and voltage applied by UEFI by default.

I am assuming this is a single memory kit and not two or more combined to make up 32GB correct?

In which case, you can increase VCCSA to about 1.25V and see if that helps. If not, then second and third timings will need relaxing (can help with that).

For other OC info, you can check out some of the guides here:

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Ivy-Bridge-E-Easy-Overclocking-Guide-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=

-Raja


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> It may not be strong enough to run it at the timings and voltage applied by UEFI by default.
> 
> I am assuming this is a single memory kit and not two or more combined to make up 32GB correct?
> 
> In which case, you can increase VCCSA to about 1.25V and see if that helps. If not, then second and third timings will need relaxing (can help with that).
> 
> For other OC info, you can check out some of the guides here:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Ivy-Bridge-E-Easy-Overclocking-Guide-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=
> 
> -Raja


It is this kit 4x8GB. I will have to tinker with it in the evening. Thanks so much raja and would you prefer to help over pm?


----------



## [email protected]

Its okay, can do it here - no need for PMs.


----------



## hokochu

I love my rampage iv black edition. sometimes I find myself staring at its blackness for hours without realizing it...

http://valid.canardpc.com/19gmfi

got the ek series full board block and everything. quite nice.


----------



## Kimir

That's better looking without kink, right?


----------



## hokochu

oh yeah. It also is more stable too








I had a hard time keeping the gpu clock at 1100mhz before but now it just runs like a champ


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> It may not be strong enough to run it at the timings and voltage applied by UEFI by default.
> 
> I am assuming this is a single memory kit and not two or more combined to make up 32GB correct?
> 
> In which case, you can increase VCCSA to about 1.25V and see if that helps. If not, then second and third timings will need relaxing (can help with that).
> 
> For other OC info, you can check out some of the guides here:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Ivy-Bridge-E-Easy-Overclocking-Guide-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=
> 
> -Raja


The INFO on the Ram for the IB-E is very interesting and should be read by anyone looking to buy Ram for there future RAMPAGE BLACK builds!!
















Many thanks for posting this Raja!

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fedex came with my komodos and blocks/rads ( 4x480s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIVBE block ) but he didnt leave them i need to sign for them :/


Nice, which case fits 4x480 rad? back of a pick-up truck?

or you meant 4x GTX480 GPU?


----------



## kpoeticg

Caselabs & MountainMods have cases that can fit 4x480's if you're creative


----------



## Goggle Eye

Caselabs & MountainMods Have both cases. Mountain Mods cases are good cases how ever they do not compare to CaseLabs Cases. I think you are talking about 480 GPUs not radiators.

The INFO on the Ram for the IB-E is very interesting and should be read by anyone looking to buy Ram for there future RAMPAGE BLACK builds!!

AJ 100 percent correct do not purchase 2 x 16 gig kits to make a 32 gig kit. will not work period. Seen a number of computers built with a R4BE or other x 79 boards using 2 x 16 gig kits. Just does not work period. why I am jumping thru hoops trying to get a 32 gig or 64 gig kit.

Off Topic please excuse:

Just found out why I cannot direct purchase from Corsair. Had account with Corsair for 15 + years always purchased direct from the USA. Moved abroad and accessing Corsair web sight thru a different Port same e mail address. Had to register a new account same e mail address. The registration went thru. My account does not show any items purchased or RMAs done. Log in click on purchase window add to my cart. Then only get list of venders to purchase from. Cannot figure out why cannot purchase direct. Instead get a list of venders that do not carry and cannot get 32 or 64 gig kits most of them try to sell you 2 x 16 gig kits Non Since. Or they are listing other brands such as Team Group or do not sell memory at all.

G Skill has the same issues venders listed on there web sight for Asia purchases. Corsair and G skill need to get on the stick period and improve customer and verify there venders list that they post for on line purchases. They are asleep at the wheel equation for disaster.

If you want to ask a question on Corsair web sight for pre purchase you have to have the part number. did not use to be like that. It is a pre sales question on purchase and international shipping and tracking. You do not have a part number only the item number so you cannot submit the form. *****mad as hell*****: What genius figured that out? suppose to make a international phone call back to the states, don't think so.

Did find out last night can purchase direct thru Amazon 32 or 64 gig kits of Corsair or G skill and ship world wide.

Need to do a RMA on the Ram brings up some new loops to jump threw all of this makes me wonder about Corsair and G Skill customer service and RMAs. Non Since.

AJ the links you provided does not make international shipments appreciate the help. If you get offers on those kits sell them do not wait on my decision. I may take one of the kits available. Still sorting this out and trying to stay calm thru the process.

Rant Done


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> The INFO on the Ram for the IB-E is very interesting and should be read by anyone looking to buy Ram for there future RAMPAGE BLACK builds!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks for posting this Raja!
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


Agreed. Great info!


----------



## Goggle Eye

Originally Posted by Ajay57 View Post

The INFO on the Ram for the IB-E is very interesting and should be read by anyone looking to buy Ram for there future RAMPAGE BLACK builds!! wink.gifthumb.gif

There information is 100 percent correct thank you for posting the links.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fedex came with my komodos and blocks/rads ( 4x480s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIVBE block ) but he didnt leave them i need to sign for them :/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, which case fits 4x480 rad? back of a pick-up truck?
> 
> or you meant 4x GTX480 GPU?
Click to expand...

see below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Caselabs & MountainMods Have both cases. Mountain Mods cases are good cases how ever they do not compare to CaseLabs Cases. I think you are talking about 480 GPUs not radiators.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The INFO on the Ram for the IB-E is very interesting and should be read by anyone looking to buy Ram for there future RAMPAGE BLACK builds!!
> 
> AJ 100 percent correct do not purchase 2 x 16 gig kits to make a 32 gig kit. will not work period. Seen a number of computers built with a R4BE or other x 79 boards using 2 x 16 gig kits. Just does not work period. why I am jumping thru hoops trying to get a 32 gig or 64 gig kit.
> 
> Off Topic please excuse:
> 
> Just found out why I cannot direct purchase from Corsair. Had account with Corsair for 15 + years always purchased direct from the USA. Moved abroad and accessing Corsair web sight thru a different Port same e mail address. Had to register a new account same e mail address. The registration went thru. My account does not show any items purchased or RMAs done. Log in click on purchase window add to my cart. Then only get list of venders to purchase from. Cannot figure out why cannot purchase direct. Instead get a list of venders that do not carry and cannot get 32 or 64 gig kits most of them try to sell you 2 x 16 gig kits Non Since. Or they are listing other brands such as Team Group or do not sell memory at all.
> 
> G Skill has the same issues venders listed on there web sight for Asia purchases. Corsair and G skill need to get on the stick period and improve customer and verify there venders list that they post for on line purchases. They are asleep at the wheel equation for disaster.
> 
> If you want to ask a question on Corsair web sight for pre purchase you have to have the part number. did not use to be like that. It is a pre sales question on purchase and international shipping and tracking. You do not have a part number only the item number so you cannot submit the form. *****mad as hell*****: What genius figured that out? suppose to make a international phone call back to the states, don't think so.
> 
> Did find out last night can purchase direct thru Amazon 32 or 64 gig kits of Corsair or G skill and ship world wide.
> 
> Need to do a RMA on the Ram brings up some new loops to jump threw all of this makes me wonder about Corsair and G Skill customer service and RMAs. Non Since.
> 
> AJ the links you provided does not make international shipments appreciate the help. If you get offers on those kits sell them do not wait on my decision. I may take one of the kits available. Still sorting this out and trying to stay calm thru the process.
> 
> Rant Done


nope 480 rads

and excuse me that is a not full description. as i already had one
5x480s ( 3x80mm, 1x60mm, 1x45, if i did not do quadfire i could do 4x80 mm and i can fit another 1 if i went single psu, if i modded the psus i could do 2 more, and if i got a ped, i could do endless as the peds can stack. all i have is the base th10. next case will be tx10-d later this year )


----------



## Gualichu04

Raja i will be trying to configure the memory timing so i can get it to 2133mhz and to find a sweet spot in overclocking the cpu also since i am already tweakign settings may as well do both. I wonder if at least 4.3 or 4.4ghz wil be possible on this cpu. I really hope so. Since at stock i rarely see the turbo touch 3.9ghz at 100% in prime95 it usually stays at 3.6ghz max.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Raja i will be trying to configure the memory timing so i can get it to 2133mhz and to find a sweet spot in overclocking the cpu also since i am already tweakign settings may as well do both. I wonder if at least 4.3 or 4.4ghz wil be possible on this cpu. I really hope so. Since at stock i rarely see the turbo touch 3.9ghz at 100% in prime95 it usually stays at 3.6ghz max.


Depending on what Ram you have and how much, its better to enter the timings in the Bios by hand, than use the XMP Profiles!!

As for Overclocking i would look to find a stable spot @ 4.2 or 4.4 and try to get that rock solid first if you wish too.

Or just do what i did here first look to find the timings in the SPD SECTION, then write down the numbers, then enter them in the Ram Section in the Bios!





I hope this will help you with your Ram problem!!
















Good Luck,

AJ.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Depending on what Ram you have and how much, its better to enter the timings in the Bios by hand, than use the XMP Profiles!!
> 
> As for Overclocking i would look to find a stable spot @ 4.2 or 4.4 and try to get that rock solid first if you wish too.
> 
> Or just do what i did here first look to find the timings in the SPD SECTION, then write down the numbers, then enter them in the Ram Section in the Bios!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this will help you with your Ram problem!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good Luck,
> 
> AJ.


how do i get to the asus uefi bios utility? Also, when i set xmp it reversts the timings to that profile and i have no idea where the voltage for the memory is.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Originally Posted by Ajay57 View Post
> 
> The INFO on the Ram for the IB-E is very interesting and should be read by anyone looking to buy Ram for there future RAMPAGE BLACK builds!! wink.gifthumb.gif
> 
> There information is 100 percent correct thank you for posting the links.


How about these LINKS for buying G.SKILL Ram in Thailand???









1, http://www.gskill.com/en/wheretobuy/list/th

For 10c it could be worth ago!









AJ.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> how do i get to the asus uefi bios utility?


You just start your PC or Restart it and keep pressing the DELETE KEY until you enter the Bios!

To leave you can press the F10 KEY and save any changes you make or just hit the ESCAPE KEY to leave as well.

"But if you really do not know how to use the Bios then i would watch some Video's on YouTube first before you do anything!"

1, 




2, 




Try looking at these 2 Video's i have posted hopefully the will give you the Info you are looking for!
















P.S. This guide i have posted is for a Ivy Bridge CPU, but the overall basics to enter and change your settings is the same OK!









THIS IS A BASIC GUIDE TO HELP YOU, IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU ARE DOING THEN LEAVE ALONE!!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> You just start your PC or Restart it and keep pressing the DELETE KEY until you enter the Bios!
> 
> To leave you can press the F10 KEY and save any changes you make or just hit the ESCAPE KEY to leave as well.
> 
> "But if you really do not know how to use the Bios then i would watch some Video's on YouTube first before you do anything!"
> 
> 1,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try looking at these 2 Video's i have posted hopefully the will give you the Info you are looking for!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


I meant the tools but, i found it thanks and where is the ram voltage settings and does it have some special name?


----------



## Ajay57

Just kindly watch through the video's and it should answer all your Questions and where to change Voltages and how to reset and alter settings!









Best Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Gualichu04

Will have to watch it later running on 9 hours of sleep in the last 4 days and i modified the vccsa voltage to 1.2 and it seems stable now the xmp profile was not adjusting it to the 1.2 it said it would. Thanks for the help i am slowly finding where everything is in the bios and those video's will make things much easier. Next step will be overclockign the cpu and any clue what settigns and voltage i should start with for 4.3ghz? I feel like such a newb since this is my first intel cpu.


----------



## Ajay57

OK any further problems just come back here, enjoy your sleep catch you later!









AJ.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> THIS IS A BASIC GUIDE TO HELP YOU, IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU ARE DOING THEN LEAVE ALONE!!


enlarged.... because it needs to be !


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> enlarged.... because it needs to be !


I will understand more once i research it better. I learn by doing more than just reading or watching.


----------



## Goggle Eye

How about these LINKS for buying G.SKILL Ram in Thailand??? wink.gif

AJ

1. Check all of the web sights listed + 10 Trips to the Plaza 7 story building just computer companies sell and build computer hardware.

2. Call Vender Do you have in stock or can you get 2133 MHz 4 sticks x 8 gigs. Response Please send me E mail what you are looking for. OK Thank You

Here is the link for the Kit I am wanting to purchase from your company. F3-2133C9Q-32GTX

http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2133c9q-32gtx

3. A. can You order the kIt?
B. If you can order what is the cost of the Kit?
C. how long will it take for delivery?

Typical response from venders on the list some only sell computer games









Replies.

HI,

I HAVE G.SKILL 16GB/1600 ZL (4GBX4) = 6,100.-

32BIT I DON'T HAVE

Cannot order we have 16 gig kits you can use two kits.
Have 1833

Can You Order:

Can Order takes two weeks for delivery.

Great What Kit?

Reply We can special order and must be paid for prior to order.

Great Please verify the kit on the special order. I will transfer funds to your account to cover the cost of the order.

F3-10666CL9Q-8GBXL








1333MHz 2GB x 4









AJ thank you for the recommendation.


----------



## Goggle Eye

After reading the over clocking guide on ROG for the R4BE.

Is one Integrated Cirrcut board for memory any better than one integrated cirrcut board from a different company and who makes the ICB for the memory? Does all 2133 MHz 4 sticks x 8 gigs use the same ICB?

2133 kit 8 gigs x 4 sticks such as Corsair, G-Skill or Team Group?

just asking out of curiosity?


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> How about these LINKS for buying G.SKILL Ram in Thailand??? wink.gif
> 
> AJ
> 
> 1. Check all of the web sights listed + 10 Trips to the Plaza 7 story building just computer companies sell and build computer hardware.
> 
> 2. Call Vender Do you have in stock or can you get 2133 MHz 4 sticks x 8 gigs. Response Please send me E mail what you are looking for. OK Thank You
> 
> Here is the link for the Kit I am wanting to purchase from your company. F3-2133C9Q-32GTX
> 
> http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2133c9q-32gtx
> 
> 3. A. can You order the kIt?
> B. If you can order what is the cost of the Kit?
> C. how long will it take for delivery?
> 
> Typical response from venders on the list some only sell computer games
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replies.
> 
> HI,
> 
> I HAVE G.SKILL 16GB/1600 ZL (4GBX4) = 6,100.-
> 
> 32BIT I DON'T HAVE
> 
> Cannot order we have 16 gig kits you can use two kits.
> Have 1833
> 
> Can You Order:
> 
> Can Order takes two weeks for delivery.
> 
> Great What Kit?
> 
> Reply We can special order and must be paid for prior to order.
> 
> Great Please verify the kit on the special order. I will transfer funds to your account to cover the cost of the order.
> 
> F3-10666CL9Q-8GBXL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1333MHz 2GB x 4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ thank you for the recommendation.


OK i understand your frustrations!!









I would look at the QVL LIST in your Handbook!!









Good Luck.

AJ.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Will have to watch it later running on 9 hours of sleep in the last 4 days and i modified the vccsa voltage to 1.2 and it seems stable now the xmp profile was not adjusting it to the 1.2 it said it would. Thanks for the help i am slowly finding where everything is in the bios and those video's will make things much easier. Next step will be overclockign the cpu and any clue what settigns and voltage i should start with for 4.3ghz? I feel like such a newb since this is my first intel cpu.


Try looking on Page 763 of this Thread, and read the settings i have posted there, it should help you to Overclock your CPU up to 4.4 at least!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Try looking on Page 763 of this Thread, and read the settings i have posted there, it should help you to Overclock your CPU up to 4.4 at least!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


page number will vary depending upon how many posts/page an OCN user sets in preferences. Best to refer to a post number.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> page number will vary depending upon how many posts/page an OCN user sets in preferences. Best to refer to a post number.


Yeah, no kidding!. This thread currently has 395 pages for me. I fear I'll be waiting a looong time for page 763.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> page number will vary depending upon how many posts/page an OCN user sets in preferences. Best to refer to a post number.


Thanks my friend in that case try looking @ post 7629 - 7630!!









In that area there should be the info your trying to look at.









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Gualichu04

I found the post jsut had to log out to get to that page. Thanks I will try the settings out later once i know for sure the ram is stable at 2133mhz cl9. Thanks


----------



## Ajay57

Your Welcome its all about helping the Members on this thread + site, just take your time and do not rush things!!









Also if you change any settings write them down into a book, so if you have a problem you can refer back to what has been changed!









Good Luck with your Overclocking!

AJ.


----------



## Gualichu04

It seems that jsut changigns the vcsa voltage to 1.2 may not be enough when i changed it was stable for over an hour and then today it shut off in under an hour.
Then it wouldnt boot from the SSD i use for the OS and i had to unplug everything but it and change the cable.


----------



## Ajay57

As for VCSA and VCCSA also VTT all these you have to be very careful, you do not apply too much Voltage as they can DAMAGE things!!

Better to read and study how they work together than blindly change things in the Bios and hope for the best!

1, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907

Take your time read this post above it will explain how things work together in the Bios and what Max safe Voltages can be used!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Raja i will be trying to configure the memory timing so i can get it to 2133mhz and to find a sweet spot in overclocking the cpu also since i am already tweakign settings may as well do both. I wonder if at least 4.3 or 4.4ghz wil be possible on this cpu. I really hope so. Since at stock i rarely see the turbo touch 3.9ghz at 100% in prime95 it usually stays at 3.6ghz max.


You could also RMA the ram because the kit is not matched properly.


----------



## Gualichu04

How would that effectt the cpu clock ? Also, after tweaking some settings it will do 3.9ghz turbo and seems stable at the timings it is supose to have and @ the 2133mhz it should be at. Unless it gets unstable again. I guess you can't trust xmp profiles to do their job. I don't see it downclock below 3gGHZ at idle though is that normal? The cpu is being utilized at 4-6%.


----------



## Mega Man

well guys ... finnally 30lbs of watercooling epicness !!!!!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## stebbiro

Clicked the spoiler and







That's sweet.


----------



## Mega Man

spoiler is working for me

forsome reason all your post said was " clicked the spoiler and"


----------



## Ajay57

Nice WC KIT Mega Man will be looking forward to the build and the end results!!









Congrats,

AJ.


----------



## Goggle Eye

well guys ... finnally 30lbs of watercooling epicness !!!!!

sent the box to the wrong address









Very nice those blocks will look amazing on the R4BE like the clean look .


----------



## Goggle Eye

Received an e mail from Gillian at G-skill with a list of local venders with phone numbers to call for G- Skill









Planning on a 4.5 GHz to 4.8GHz over clock depending on the luck of the lottery on the CPU. From G-Skill

AJ you and other members have said the same thing concerning compatiability issues









1. We don't recommend mixing two or more memory kits together because it may
cause compatibility issues, such as unable to boot or unable to perform at
rated speeds. The compatibility issues stem from different IC chips that may
not be compatible between the different kits. That's why we test each memory
kit to ensure that there are no compatibility issue within a single matching
set kit.

Therefore, if you are looking for 64GB total, it is highly recommended to
get a 8GBx8 memory kit that comes in a single package.

2. 2133MHz and 2400MHz are overclocked memory kits. *It will not likely work
well with your system because you are already overclocking your CPU* to 4.5GHz
thru 4.8GHz. In this case, *we recommend 1600MHz instead*, which is not overclocked
and should work better with your CPU overclock.

Need some help with this why wouldn't 2133MHz work or 2400Mhz in the Z series with a CPU OC?

Please will some one explain why 1600MHz kit should be used rather than 2133MHz in the Z series?

Should fans be used on the memory rather than water blocks since not over clocking the memory? Water blocks on the memory would look much nicer.

Thank You


----------



## Ajay57

To explain this means that G.SKILL will not commit themselves above 1600Mhz, especially if your looking to use high amounts of Ram and Overclocking as well!!!









I.E. 32 GB or 64 GB as i said, you are putting more strain on your IMC with these sizes of Ram, and if you decide to Overclock you are asking the CPU and parts to work harder!!

As if you read through this thread you will see members struggle a bit to get things working with these amounts.

But there will be someone who can tell you about this better than me lol!
















Therefore, if you are looking for 64GB total, it is highly recommended to
get a 8GBx8 memory kit that comes in a single package.

2. 2133MHz and 2400MHz are overclocked memory kits. It will not likely work
well with your system because you are already overclocking your CPU to 4.5GHz
thru 4.8GHz. In this case, we recommend 1600MHz instead, which is not overclocked
and should work better with your CPU overclock.

Need some help with this why wouldn't 2133MHz work or 2400Mhz in the Z series with a CPU OC?

Please will some one explain why 1600MHz kit should be used rather than 2133MHz in the Z series?

As from my own testing 2133Mhz is the sweet spot and seeing others in the Overclocking world, 2400Mhz is possible from OCing from 2133Mhz, but you need to be @ 4 x 4 = 16 GB which will make things more easy to do with that amount.

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> To explain this means that G.SKILL will not commit themselves above 1600Mhz, especially if your looking to use high amounts of Ram and Overclocking as well!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I.E. 32 GB or 64 GB as i said, you are putting more strain on your IMC with these sizes of Ram, and if you decide to Overclock you are asking the CPU and parts to work harder!!
> 
> As if you read through this thread you will see members struggle a bit to get things working with these amounts.
> 
> But there will be someone who can tell you about this better than me lol!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Therefore, if you are looking for 64GB total, it is highly recommended to
> get a 8GBx8 memory kit that comes in a single package.
> 
> *2. 2133MHz and 2400MHz are overclocked memory kits. It will not likely work
> well with your system because you are already overclocking your CPU to 4.5GHz
> thru 4.8GHz. In this case, we recommend 1600MHz instead, which is not overclocked
> and should work better with your CPU overclock*.
> 
> Need some help with this why wouldn't 2133MHz work or 2400Mhz in the Z series with a CPU OC?
> 
> Please will some one explain why 1600MHz kit should be used rather than 2133MHz in the Z series?
> 
> As from my own testing 2133Mhz is the sweet spot and seeing others in the Overclocking world, 2400Mhz is possible from OCing from 2133Mhz, but you need to be @ 4 x 4 = 16 GB which will make things more easy to do with that amount.
> Regards,
> AJ.


That's just wrong. Where did that statement come from ?


----------



## Ajay57

Sorry JPM,

"What part do you think is wrong, as i am always open to help and advice on here!!"

Just picked that out from the post of GOOGLE EYE who had a E-Mail from G.SKILL my friend!!
















As from my own testing 2133Mhz is the sweet spot and seeing others in the Overclocking world, 2400Mhz is possible from OCing from 2133Mhz, but you need to be @ 4 x 4 = 16 GB which will make things more easy to do with that amount.

The above is my own understanding on how ram behaves on this platform!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## gdubc

I think with that statement they are just covering bases and saying that the kits are tested to work at rated speeds, but in a stock cpu setup. On an overclocked cpu, ymmv.


----------



## Errorist66

my 32GB G.Skill is running fine at 2400MHz and the CPU at 4.5GHz. Above 4.5 I have to strap at 125 and I don't like the Vcore jammed at 1.38v 24/7. So 4.5 it is.


----------



## stebbiro

Well Guys & Gals,
I got home from work last night and pulled the trigger on my R4BE.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



]


Will be here next week.


----------



## Jpmboy

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Sorry JPM,
> "What part do you think is wrong, as i am always open to help and advice on here!!"
> Just picked that out from the post of GOOGLE EYE who had a E-Mail from G.SKILL my friend!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As from my own testing 2133Mhz is the sweet spot and seeing others in the Overclocking world, 2400Mhz is possible from OCing from 2133Mhz, but you need to be @ 4 x 4 = 16 GB which will make things more easy to do with that amount.
> The above is my own understanding on how ram behaves on this platform!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> AJ.


Nothing you wrote... the bolded text in my reply was what I was referring to. No problem bro. gdubc got it right.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I think with that statement they are just covering bases and saying that the kits are tested to work at rated speeds, but in a stock cpu setup. On an overclocked cpu, ymmv.


funny thing is, for SB-E and IB-E, anything > 1600 and 1866 respectively are outside the CPU's IMC rated "stock" ram speeds, so then "stock cpu" not really a "safe harbour" statement by manufacturers since by definition 2133 cannot be run at stock on these CPUs. (semantics, i know). Anyway, pretty sure that running 2133 ram at it's rated speed requires the IMC to overclock.


----------



## Goggle Eye

It is a Noobie question appreciate the help apparent need to do more reading.....

I.E. 32 GB or 64 GB as i said, you are putting more strain on your IMC with these sizes of Ram, and if you decide to Overclock you are asking the CPU and parts to work harder!!

As if you read through this thread you will see members struggle a bit to get things working with these amounts.

Understood that 2133 MHz is the sweet spot on the R4BE install either 16 gigs or 32 gigs and forget the 64 gigs.

Thank You


----------



## Gualichu04

I have the ram running @ 2133mhz Cl9 and the cpu @ 4.2ghz 1.25V so far it is stable after over 20 minutes in windows and prime. I will be gaming to test it further. Cpu-Z Here 4.34ghz it crashed @ 1.25V i am happy with this until i get both gpus under water and installed still trying to figure out which fittings i need for the loop.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> It is a Noobie question appreciate the help apparent need to do more reading.....
> 
> I.E. 32 GB or 64 GB as i said, you are putting more strain on your IMC with these sizes of Ram, and if you decide to Overclock you are asking the CPU and parts to work harder!!
> 
> As if you read through this thread you will see members struggle a bit to get things working with these amounts.
> 
> Understood that 2133 MHz is the sweet spot on the R4BE install either 16 gigs or 32 gigs and forget the 64 gigs.
> 
> Thank You


Yeah 16 GB's or 32 GB's of ram is well enough, unless your doing CAD work or Decoding Video's where you would need the Ram @ 64 GB's Possibly!!

If you look at the TOP Overclockers they run 4 x 2 GB = 8 GB of ram, that is to use the advantage of the Quad Platform and have the lowest amount, so as to be able to Overclock the CPU to the highest level possible!

What you have is the least of amount of strain on the IMC to be able to go for the highest clocks! You tend to learn these things when competing on the HWbot for points and Gold Cups, also for World Records etc!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## webhito

Hi Everyone!

Dropping by again as I seem to have fallen into some weird issue, as of a few weeks ago ( doing tweaks and some other things I do not recall ) I am getting some weird random freezes, as many here know, unlike most I don't do the overclock thing that much. I have my pc set up for 4.2, then dropped down to 4.0 then finally to leave it pretty much at stock but with a 0.25 negative offset, just from memory my vtt is 1.05 and vccsa is 0.850. Ram is set to auto and voltage to 1.65. As I have said its random, sometimes it freezes with music, sometimes video, game wise I have never had it fail on me once.

Not really sure what to look for in the viewfinder, I have tried peeking but have not found anything besides a critical report from a failed proper shutdown.

Reason I don't oc? Its summer here in Mexico and my ambient temps sometimes reach 40c, my whole system is watercooled but its sometimes not enough to keep my 3970x under control. My first guess would be to put everything back to auto but that wouldn't help my temperatures at all.

Any idea of what could be causing the issue?


----------



## cadaveca

webhito...bump VCCSA to 0.950.


----------



## Mappi75

Help!

My old REIV is damaged so i need urgent a new mainboard:

now i can choose:

*the REIV again or the Black ?*

I'am still need my following memory kit:
*Kingston HyperX DIMM XMP Kit 64GB, DDR3-1600, CL9 (KHX16C9K8/64X)*

But i'am still not sure if the Black works now - without problem!?

For a few month i got a Black and it turns off on light and heavy duty like installing office 2013 ^^

(i changed at this time 4 ram kits, 2 power supplies - still the same problem.)

Now is the question: should i try the Black again?

But i looks that much guys here have problems with the black,
what do you think?

For the REIV i NEVER must raise any voltage - most time i fix the lowest needed voltage settings (no oc).

Would you think i have to raise the voltages to run my Kingston 64GB RAM memory kit?


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> webhito...bump VCCSA to 0.950.


I will give that a shot!.

Like I said, sometimes it takes days for it to crash so I will wait to see if it happens again and report back, or send you a pm.

Thanks!


----------



## Zimzoid

Just changed to a Thermaltake Core V71 case from a Corsair Air540 so far i,m fairly happy with it:thumb:


----------



## Goggle Eye

Yeah 16 GB's or 32 GB's of ram is well enough, Thank you AJ for keeping me on track.

Zimzoid: Nice clean build

I got home from work last night and pulled the trigger on my R4BE. Congrats


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Just changed to a Thermaltake Core V71 case from a Corsair Air540 so far i,m fairly happy with it:thumb:


Any change to temps with the case move? Internal Exhaust cards can be a real issue in some cases, so this kinda interests me a little bit.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Any change to temps with the case move? Internal Exhaust cards can be a real issue in some cases, so this kinda interests me a little bit.


Hi cadaveca, so far I've had those cards in a 900D and a 540 air and the TT Core V71 has been the best for them dropped the cards temps by about 5-7c on average, always had issues with the top card getting toasty, was 75c-82c now 68-75c.I have removed the two front 200mm fans put one of those in the top empty space so 2x200mm in the top and have put 3x120mm in the front and 1 on the bottom, they are budget 120mm fans and will be replaced with better quality fans later, so not bad for a some what cheap case.


----------



## Gualichu04

is 1.2V vccsa voltage to much for 2133mhz CL9 32GB ram. I have not tryed to reduce it since i know it is stable at 1.2 with a 4,3ghz overclock and 1.26 vcore voltage.


----------



## Errorist66

it's funy how I thought my system was quite stable then I ran X264 encoding stability test. Had to go up to 0.036v turbo voltage.

Is there a way to get the R4BE to shutdown if the CPU fan stop spinning? Cause then I would put the tack signal from my 2 pump to CPU FAN and CPU OPT. As it is it will only display the RPM in RAD in AI suite 3 but no other reaction.

@Gualichu04 When I check the RAM SPD (not RPM) from the last page in the BIOS, mine would specify VCCSA at 1.2v in there.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> it's funy how I thought my system was quite stable then I ran X264 encoding stability test. Had to go up to 0.036v turbo voltage.
> 
> Is there a way to get the R4BE to shutdown if the CPU fan stop spinning? Cause then I would put the tack signal from my 2 pump to CPU FAN and CPU OPT. As it is it will only display the RPM in RAD in AI suite 3 but no other reaction.
> 
> @Gualichu04 When I check the RAM RPM from the last page in the BIOS, mine would specify VCCSA at 1.2v in there.


Thanks mine specifies 1.2V on the xmp profile for my ram also.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Finally got my board back from RMA on the 16th, been checking if everything runs right. Seems like a new board since the serial numbers are different. Guess they couldn't fix my previous board. All memory is detected, no broken audio connections, no random power cycling reboots. Stress testing has no errors so far. Omg have they finally sent me a usable board?!


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> VTT DDR adjustment is not needed on this platform, that's why I'm not bothered by it not showing the value you have set. It does set the value, just the table does not show it. Not going to waste time on stuff like this, sorry.


Tuning VTT DDR is helpful when it comes to extreme RAM OC and more importantly, this bug affects the user experience.
Any value input to BIOS other than 'AUTO' would cause VTT DDR=0.75 on next boot (seen in BIOS and Turbo v in OS).
If your argument is true that 'it does set the value, just the table does not show it', then I suppose it should be a quick fix.
From customers' point of view, this really isn't waste time on stuff like this. This problem exists since the advent of R4E, and still not fixed in R4BE, shouldn't it worth immediate attention?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> It seems that jsut changigns the vcsa voltage to 1.2 may not be enough when i changed it was stable for over an hour and then today it shut off in under an hour.
> Then it wouldnt boot from the SSD i use for the OS and i had to unplug everything but it and change the cable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Tuning VTT DDR is helpful when it comes to extreme RAM OC and more importantly, this bug affects the user experience.
> Any value input to BIOS other than 'AUTO' would cause VTT DDR=0.75 on next boot (seen in BIOS and Turbo v in OS).
> If your argument is true that 'it does set the value, just the table does not show it', then I suppose it should be a quick fix.
> From customers' point of view, this really isn't waste time on stuff like this. This problem exists since the advent of R4E, and still not fixed in R4BE, shouldn't it worth immediate attention?


Sorry, you'll have to go through ASUS Support for something like this (i'm not ASUS Support). It is not a priority fix given it does not help - I'd rather spend time on things that stop systems working. It does not help on this platform, but you are free to try if you wish anyway.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Sorry, you'll have to go through ASUS Support for something like this (i'm not ASUS Support). It is not a priority fix given it does not help - I'd rather spend time on things that stop systems working. It does not help on this platform, but you are free to try if you wish anyway.


It seems you are the thread starter of this http://www.overclock.net/t/1488891/asus-z97-motherboards-official-support-thread
You're not ASUS Support but you post a official support thread


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> It seems you are the thread starter of this http://www.overclock.net/t/1488891/asus-z97-motherboards-official-support-thread
> You're not ASUS Support but you post a official support thread


Well it's more official than the other "official" threads created by users at least.









I just don't waste time calling in favors at R&D for things that don't really affect how the board works or on functions that don't help







Have bigger fish to fry and yes I work in technical marketing not the support department. I guess you could call what I do, " over and above my job description support with a view to helping on things that matter and are serious, or telling you to contact other support channels when need be." Not sure that would fit as a thread title, though.


----------



## [email protected]

I just have priorities and this type of thing is not one of them. You can try the regular support channels.

Last response on this one, sorry


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I just have priorities and this type of thing is not one of them. You can try the regular support channels.
> 
> Last response on this one, sorry


Sure, I totally understand, you have priorities.
It's OK.
Btw, any plans for next R4BE BIOS update? to further improve stability?


----------



## [email protected]

If an update is needed it will be made otherwise no.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> If an update is needed it will be made otherwise no.


OK, thanks for your time, sir.


----------



## Mappi75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> Help!
> 
> My old REIV is damaged so i need urgent a new mainboard:
> 
> now i can choose:
> 
> *the REIV again or the Black ?*
> 
> I'am still need my following memory kit:
> *Kingston HyperX DIMM XMP Kit 64GB, DDR3-1600, CL9 (KHX16C9K8/64X)*
> 
> But i'am still not sure if the Black works now - without problem!?
> 
> For a few month i got a Black and it turns off on light and heavy duty like installing office 2013 ^^
> 
> (i changed at this time 4 ram kits, 2 power supplies - still the same problem.)
> 
> Now is the question: should i try the Black again?
> 
> But i looks that much guys here have problems with the black,
> what do you think?
> 
> For the REIV i NEVER must raise any voltage - most time i fix the lowest needed voltage settings (no oc).
> 
> Would you think i have to raise the voltages to run my Kingston 64GB RAM memory kit?


Ok, i will give the Black a second chance, should arrive today!


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Raja, when is the ROG x99 scheduled to be released ?


----------



## [email protected]

Everything about that chipset is under NDA.


----------



## Mappi75

Question will the Evga SLI-Bridge fit to the Black?

3-way

and

4-way?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> Question will the Evga SLI-Bridge fit to the Black?
> 
> 3-way
> 
> and
> 
> 4-way?


Yeah


----------



## Mappi75

Both?

Thanks!


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Everything about that chipset is under NDA.


Will we see the rampage v released when they release the haswell-e or you think it will be a little time after that?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Will we see the rampage v released when they release the haswell-e or you think it will be a little time after that?


No idea and even if I did know I wouldn't say. Sorry.


----------



## gdubc

Yeah man, whataya tryin to do, ruin christmas?!?


----------



## Gualichu04

Which key is the boot menu key i looked in the manual but, could not find it.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Which key is the boot menu key i looked in the manual but, could not find it.


Think its F8


----------



## Mega Man

either that or f12


----------



## Mega Man

well its official i have 4 powercolor 290xs for my main rig and 1 sapphire for my a10

so kinda funny @ max volts and @ full load 4.7ghz my cpu didnt even break 58 deg with all my fans off ( aquacomputer glitch ) during ibt avx,

idk y but recently my pc has been glitching, so i am restresstesting. after a few passes with my i ram @ stock,gonna test at 2400 ram speed may be i need new full windows install, it started as soon as i cloned my old SSD onto my new one ...

once windows loaded with no users, then i rebooted it loaded but it lost all my stuff ( IE my firefox sync ect, ) been really weird

edit seems stable not bad imo for a 3930k @ 4.7 2400 rams 1.1v vtt/vcssa



forgot memory speed :/


----------



## 113802

Finally got a chance to play around with my system after getting a new case. It's an average chip so I will be getting a new one soon from the retail edge program. I'm impressed on how high I can raise the BCLK on this board. I can push it to 180 but my ram is holding me back.

http://valid.x86.fr/uh58ff


----------



## MNiceGuy

Hey guys,

I've been tossing around the idea of using a 750 Ti as a dedicated Physx card. Right now I have two 780 Ti in the first and third PCIe slots. If I go through with this plan I would put the 750 in the fourth PCIe slot. I understand this will kick 2 of the cards down to x8 but is there any reason I couldn't do this?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've been tossing around the idea of using a 750 Ti as a dedicated Physx card. Right now I have two 780 Ti in the first and third PCIe slots. If I go through with this plan I would put the 750 in the fourth PCIe slot. I understand this will kick 2 of the cards down to x8 but is there any reason I couldn't do this?


Nah, works fine, I've done the same with dual 780 Ti and a 780. You'll get X16 on top slot, and x8 on the other two cards, if you leave dual spacing between the top two cards.

Got caught up on my review backlog, so I'm back to playing with memory on this board again. Memory burn-in seems to have worked; can now run tight 2800 with low voltage. BIOS timing profiles are excellent.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Finally got a chance to play around with my system after getting a new case. It's an average chip so I will be getting a new one soon from the retail edge program. I'm impressed on how high I can raise the BCLK on this board. I can push it to 180 but my ram is holding me back.
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/uh58ff


http://www.overclock.net/t/917173/the-bclk-klub-fsb-htt-welcome

Nice going getting a 4930K up there.That would top the BCLK Klub chart.

HWbot is a bit tougher. http://hwbot.org/submission/2533503_turnnburn_reference_clock_rampage_iv_black_edition_192.47_mhz


----------



## Faithh

Could anyone here tell me if this rampage iv black has the auto fan stop feature? So it automatically turns the fans off when the system is idling.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Could anyone here tell me if this rampage iv black has the auto fan stop feature? So it automatically turns the fans off when the system is idling.


on some profile, the fan just stop. You can also customize the profile in AI 3.


----------



## Faithh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> on some profile, the fan just stop. You can also customize the profile in AI 3.


Which profile? Also can you voltage control fans through the cpu header?


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Which profile? Also can you voltage control fans through the cpu header?


The silent profile. and you can create as many profile as you would like.

yes, in advance control mode in the bios and you can control 3 pin fan. out of the 8 fan header on the Mobo, 4 are programmable and the OPT side fan have some basic profile in the Bios.
i.e. CPU FAN, CPU OPT FAN, Chassis 1 FAN, Chassis1 OPT FAN... 2 and 3.

Max FAN amp is 1.0A (12W) so some fan model won't/shouldn't be attached to the MOBO. But all my fan are 0.3Amp.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> The silent profile. and you can create as many profile as you would like.
> 
> yes, in advance control mode in the bios and you can control 3 pin fan. out of the 8 fan header on the Mobo, 4 are programmable and the OPT side fan have some basic profile in the Bios.
> i.e. CPU FAN, CPU OPT FAN, Chassis 1 FAN, Chassis1 OPT FAN... 2 and 3.
> 
> Max FAN amp is 1.0A (12W) so some fan model won't/shouldn't be attached to the MOBO. But all my fan are 0.3Amp.


OPT fan are 50% voltage minimum in "DUTY" mode. So the software only works on the fans connected to CPU and Chassis headers.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> OPT fan are 50% voltage minimum in "DUTY" mode. So the software only works on the fans connected to CPU and Chassis headers.


and the only source of temperature to control the fan is the cpu temp, none of the opt[1..3] can be used, which is a drag on a WC setup.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> and the only source of temperature to control the fan is the cpu temp, none of the opt[1..3] can be used, which is a drag on a WC setup.


You can hook a probe up, they have headers next to the fan plugs.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You can hook a probe up, they have headers next to the fan plugs.


I have 3 10K probe around the SLI GPU so I know the temp IN, between and after the second GPU. But I don't see a way to have a fan speed curve to follow OPT1 temp for example,

And the minimum in the bios to shutdown the system if OPT[1..3] goes above a certain value is 70 degree. Problem is that the Acrylic res specify a max temp of 50 degree. So not water loop friendly.


----------



## OBI-1

Woo HOOOOO!!!


----------



## vulcan78

Hi everyone, I just picked up this motherboard for my first PC build. I have a question about RAM, the manual states that if using only two sticks to place them in B1 and D1, can I put them in B2 and D2 instead? These are the memory slots closest to the CPU and putting the RAM here would allow for a better fit with the massive air cooler I am going with, a Phanteks PH-TC14PE. The cooler will fit with the memory in B1 and D1 but the forward fan will have to be raised slightly.

Speaking of memory, I have heard that many have had issues with Corsair Vengeance, the memory I grabbed without consulting the memory compatibility list and before hearing of this were two 8G sticks of Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133 Mhz CMY16GX3M2A2133C11. I think its newer memory and may have yet to be added to the various Asus memory compatibility lists as googling the part-number results in similar inquiries from other Asus mobo owners, with the memory working out ok. It's height will allow it to just fit under the heat-sink of this particular cooler, that is if I can run them in the first two slots, B2 and D2. Alternatively, if it is possible, I could run them on the left side of the CPU in either A1 and B1 or A2 and B2. It would be awesome if we could just put them where-ever we wish but I understand that it has something to do with the way the memory lanes are presently laid out.

Anyhow, I should be getting the air cooler in any day now, I had initially decided on a Noctua NH-D15, but while waiting for it to actually become available state-side I discovered that its redesign of being 10mm wider than its predecessor, which was sitting precariously close to the first PCI-E slot to begin with, now makes it hang over it and forces you to put a single GPU slot in the next x16 PCI-E express-lane, foreclosing on the option of going SLI in the future.

Here are some reviews of the Phanteks PH-TC14PE, I picked up a black and white one which is on sale at the moment on newegg for $69. I think it will look great in the arctic white and black Air 540 I picked up. Comparable performance to the Noctua NH-D15, better looking, $40 cheaper and I can use the first PCI-E slot!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2013/08/21/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-review/1

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/59957-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-ph-tc12dx-coolers-review-7.html

Here is the rest of the build:

CPU: i7 4930

Case: Corsair Air 540

PSU: Corsair RM 850

Storage: migrating existing 2.5" SSD and HDD from my laptop.

OS: Windows 7

I'm coming from the high-powered laptop world, looking forward to an exponentially faster, and quieter computing experience. I have a thread up chronicling my build and the misfortune that catalyzed my decision to migrate to desktop.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/alienware-18-m18x/752285-my-m18x-turned-into-zombie-so-now-i-m-building-monster-desktop-i-always-talked-about.html

Thanks in advance.

P.S. If anyone can recommend some low-profile RAM that definitely works with the R4BE please let me know, just in case the Corsair Vengeance Pro is incompatible.


----------



## Gualichu04

My computer has randomlly rebooted without a windwos crash twice now. one was everything stock and the other was overclocked so that cant be the issue. When it tries to boot again is says bot device not found. is there a way to set boot priority on this motherboard. I really hope my
SSD is not bad. I am running a HD tune error scan to check it out. Unless for some odd reason no windows 8.1 update yet causes this issue.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> My computer has randomlly rebooted without a windwos crash twice now. one was everything stock and the other was overclocked so that cant be the issue. When it tries to boot again is says bot device not found. is there a way to set boot priority on this motherboard. I really hope my
> SSD is not bad. I am running a HD tune error scan to check it out. Unless for some odd reason no windows 8.1 update yet causes this issue.


Got that once because I had my SSD on the AsMedia port. Moving it to the Intel 6GB/secfixed it. Turning off the PSU, press start to drain the capacitor and power back up would also bring it back on.

The MB would turn off without any warning if something is too hot or if the power requested by the CPU exceed the max current specified in the bios. If it turned off at stock it could be bent pin on the CPU socket os something is not seated properly.


----------



## Gualichu04

to confirm the intel slots are the ones near the top by the 3gb/s slots right? also everything is fine as i reseated the ram twice to make sure it was snug and the cpu is seated just fine. nothing sohuld be getting to hot since there is plenty of airflow. What is a good temp monitor besides speedfan?


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> to confirm the intel slots are the ones near the top by the 3gb/s slots right? also everything is fine as i reseated the ram twice to make sure it was snug and the cpu is seated just fine. nothing sohuld be getting to hot since there is plenty of airflow. What is a good temp monitor besides speedfan?


AI suite 3 comes with the R4BE. There's also a menu in the bios. Aida 64 as a good sensor page. and yes, top one are intel.


----------



## Gualichu04

Ok so all my hdd are on the Intel 3gb/s and the ssd is on the Intel 6gb/s when i installed all of the software it did not install the ai suite. I wil get it from the website then. SSD passed the error scan.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> AI suite 3 comes with the R4BE. There's also a menu in the bios. Aida 64 as a good sensor page. and yes, top one are intel.


Aida 64 is a trail not a full software. Not worth buying for my uses.


----------



## kpoeticg

I love Aida64 

Don't mind the arrow, i took that screenshot for something else. Aida goes great with the R4BE tho. My x79 Extreme 6 only had like half those power/voltage sensors

All that blank space is where my 2nd 290x info goes, it's in rma right now


----------



## stebbiro

Just thought I'd share an update notice on the delivery of my new R4BE.


----------



## kpoeticg

Ouch. That's pretty unlucky =\


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Hi everyone, I just picked up this motherboard for my first PC build. I have a question about RAM, the manual states that if using only two sticks to place them in B1 and D1, can I put them in B2 and D2 instead? These are the memory slots closest to the CPU and putting the RAM here would allow for a better fit with the massive air cooler I am going with, a Phanteks PH-TC14PE. The cooler will fit with the memory in B1 and D1 but the forward fan will have to be raised slightly.
> 
> Speaking of memory, I have heard that many have had issues with Corsair Vengeance, the memory I grabbed without consulting the memory compatibility list and before hearing of this were two 8G sticks of Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133 Mhz CMY16GX3M2A2133C11. I think its newer memory and may have yet to be added to the various Asus memory compatibility lists as googling the part-number results in similar inquiries from other Asus mobo owners, with the memory working out ok. It's height will allow it to just fit under the heat-sink of this particular cooler, that is if I can run them in the first two slots, B2 and D2. Alternatively, if it is possible, I could run them on the left side of the CPU in either A1 and B1 or A2 and B2. It would be awesome if we could just put them where-ever we wish but I understand that it has something to do with the way the memory lanes are presently laid out.
> 
> Anyhow, I should be getting the air cooler in any day now, I had initially decided on a Noctua NH-D15, but while waiting for it to actually become available state-side I discovered that its redesign of being 10mm wider than its predecessor, which was sitting precariously close to the first PCI-E slot to begin with, now makes it hang over it and forces you to put a single GPU slot in the next x16 PCI-E express-lane, foreclosing on the option of going SLI in the future.
> 
> Here are some reviews of the Phanteks PH-TC14PE, I picked up a black and white one which is on sale at the moment on newegg for $69. I think it will look great in the arctic white and black Air 540 I picked up. Comparable performance to the Noctua NH-D15, better looking, $40 cheaper and I can use the first PCI-E slot!
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2013/08/21/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-review/1
> 
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/59957-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-ph-tc12dx-coolers-review-7.html
> 
> Here is the rest of the build:
> 
> CPU: i7 4930
> 
> Case: Corsair Air 540
> 
> PSU: Corsair RM 850
> 
> Storage: migrating existing 2.5" SSD and HDD from my laptop.
> 
> OS: Windows 7
> 
> I'm coming from the high-powered laptop world, looking forward to an exponentially faster, and quieter computing experience. I have a thread up chronicling my build and the misfortune that catalyzed my decision to migrate to desktop.
> 
> http://forum.notebookreview.com/alienware-18-m18x/752285-my-m18x-turned-into-zombie-so-now-i-m-building-monster-desktop-i-always-talked-about.html
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> P.S. If anyone can recommend some low-profile RAM that definitely works with the R4BE please let me know, just in case the Corsair Vengeance Pro is incompatible.


Hopefully I am able to help out a bit. Oddly, I come from using a PH-TC14PE as well, even better, the black and white version...

So, I am rocking 32GB of Crucial (Normally I stick with Corsair as they have always served me well, but this was the best Low Profile RAM I could find) Ballistic VLP-DIMM's 4x8GB 1600MHz. Here is the link to Amazon, which was the cheapest place I could find them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A14ZUJ6

Congrats! And good luck with the build!!! If you require any other assistance, be sure to let me know, always excited to help out a fellow builder when I can!


----------



## vulcan78

reev3r, thanks for being the first to respond! Did you have Corsair Vengeance Pro and were there clearance issues? What about running the memory sticks in B1 and D1, the memory slots closest to the CPU (and furthest away from the intake fan)?

How do you like the Phanteks PH-TC14PE? I didn't realize how awesome it is for an air cooler, I thought Noctua was king:

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2

Oh and what is the deal with PWM? Is it just the black and white version that doesn't have it? All of the other colors of the same model number are advertised as having PWM except the black and white, I'm hoping it is a typo.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011&cm_re=phanteks_ph-tc14pe-_-35-709-011-_-Product

I'll check out the ram you mentioned. Thanks again.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> reev3r, thanks for being the first to respond! Did you have Corsair Vengeance Pro and were there clearance issues? What about running the memory sticks in B1 and D1, the memory slots closest to the CPU (and furthest away from the intake fan)?
> 
> How do you like the Phanteks PH-TC14PE? I didn't realize how awesome it is for an air cooler, I thought Noctua was king:
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2
> 
> Oh and what is the deal with PWM? Is it just the black and white version that doesn't have it? All of the other colors of the same model number are advertised as having PWM except the black and white, I'm hoping it is a typo.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011&cm_re=phanteks_ph-tc14pe-_-35-709-011-_-Product
> 
> I'll check out the ram you mentioned. Thanks again.


You are most welcome for the help, we do what we can to help others enjoy their builds and to make it easier. ESPECIALLY on a first build, it is always exciting to watch it come together for someone!

Okay, I will attack this one question by question...

First, when I was using the Phankteks, I was able to fit the Vengeance pro beneath it just fine, but regular vengeance requiredbme to move the fan up a couple of mm's. (Although. This was on an Asus P8Z77-V Pro, but I suspect the spacing is within the same distance, though you should verify this beforehand).

As for placing the modules closest to the CPU, with the tall DIMM's it I'd going to be difficult with the Phanteks, personally, unless you have already ordered your RAM, and can not cancel, I would strongly suggest finding some VLP DIMM's. In your brand of choice. Unfortunately some things I can not verify on this board for certain, but I can do some reference work, and get back to you, as I no longer have the Z77 board, so I can not do a direct comparison but I can make a phone call and have a friend measure it for me.

Personally, I loved the Phanteks! It was overall quiet, when tuned properly in BIOS or AiSuite, and it kept my 4.7GHz 3770K below 70℃ for the most part. As for the PWM, that was my ONLY caveat with them. Unless they have made some changes, they were indeed NOT PWM fans. However, ironically, I put a couple of Noctua NF-A14 fans on to replace the stock fans (which were donated to my server/HTPC), and although they were even quieter and kept things a bit cooler, they were very ugly, and it took some time to find good profiles.

Also, prepare for a lot of flack from the Noctua fanboys, heaven forbid any competetitor develop a better product! As if competition is bad for the consumer... lol

I wish I had more clear and concise answers on the RAM/heatsink issue, but once more, going with LP or VLP (half the size of a normal DIMM, JUST the DIMM, so VERY, VERY tiny, they WILL fit!!! (-: )

If you would like I will certainly get a hold or my friend and find out about those tolerances, and how they compare, in order to tell you if the Vengeance Pro DIMM's will fit. My thought, however, is probably not in the closest to CPU slots.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stebbiro*
> 
> Just thought I'd share an update notice on the delivery of my new R4BE.


Ouch! I had the same reason listed by UPS for a delay on a bunch of watercooling gear & a fan controller last Nov.

I wasn't aware that train derailments were that common.

edit: Makes me wonder if 'train derailment' isn't UPS code for when they screw up and send your package somewhere it wasn't supposed to go.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Hi everyone, I just picked up this motherboard for my first PC build. I have a question about RAM, the manual states that if using only two sticks to place them in B1 and D1, can I put them in B2 and D2 instead? These are the memory slots closest to the CPU and putting the RAM here would allow for a better fit with the massive air cooler I am going with, a Phanteks PH-TC14PE. The cooler will fit with the memory in B1 and D1 but the forward fan will have to be raised slightly.
> 
> Speaking of memory, I have heard that many have had issues with Corsair Vengeance, the memory I grabbed without consulting the memory compatibility list and before hearing of this were two 8G sticks of Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133 Mhz CMY16GX3M2A2133C11. I think its newer memory and may have yet to be added to the various Asus memory compatibility lists as googling the part-number results in similar inquiries from other Asus mobo owners, with the memory working out ok. It's height will allow it to just fit under the heat-sink of this particular cooler, that is if I can run them in the first two slots, B2 and D2. Alternatively, if it is possible, I could run them on the left side of the CPU in either A1 and B1 or A2 and B2. It would be awesome if we could just put them where-ever we wish but I understand that it has something to do with the way the memory lanes are presently laid out.
> 
> Anyhow, I should be getting the air cooler in any day now, I had initially decided on a Noctua NH-D15, but while waiting for it to actually become available state-side I discovered that its redesign of being 10mm wider than its predecessor, which was sitting precariously close to the first PCI-E slot to begin with, now makes it hang over it and forces you to put a single GPU slot in the next x16 PCI-E express-lane, foreclosing on the option of going SLI in the future.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some reviews of the Phanteks PH-TC14PE, I picked up a black and white one which is on sale at the moment on newegg for $69. I think it will look great in the arctic white and black Air 540 I picked up. Comparable performance to the Noctua NH-D15, better looking, $40 cheaper and I can use the first PCI-E slot!
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2013/08/21/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-review/1
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/59957-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-ph-tc12dx-coolers-review-7.html
> Here is the rest of the build:
> CPU: i7 4930
> Case: Corsair Air 540
> PSU: Corsair RM 850
> Storage: migrating existing 2.5" SSD and HDD from my laptop.
> OS: Windows 7
> I'm coming from the high-powered laptop world, looking forward to an exponentially faster, and quieter computing experience. I have a thread up chronicling my build and the misfortune that catalyzed my decision to migrate to desktop.
> http://forum.notebookreview.com/alienware-18-m18x/752285-my-m18x-turned-into-zombie-so-now-i-m-building-monster-desktop-i-always-talked-about.html
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> *P.S. If anyone can recommend some low-profile RAM that definitely works with the R4BE please let me know, just in case the Corsair Vengeance Pro is incompatible*.


I'm selling these: http://www.overclock.net/t/1490947/gskill-ram-4x4-ddr3-2666-c11/0_20 (work at 2133, 2400 100 strap, 2333, 2666 125 strap on the R4BE). NOt sure they fit under that cooler tho.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stebbiro*
> 
> Just thought I'd share an update notice on the delivery of my new R4BE.


that is a snip worth saving...


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Hey Folks.

What you you guys say to, if there was a installer, that contained every program, that this board requires? (LAN, Wifi, Bluetooth and misc), in one handy installer?
(No need to download several files from 1 pc to another because LAN isen't working.

Give me some feedback regarding this, because i might have the thing you need then









I've made a Installer Wizard, that contains Lan, Wifi, Bluetooth, Asus Probe II, AI Suite 3, Sata, Realtek and Usb3 & Chipset drivers. All in 1 package.

This should make reinstalling your pc a feel like a nice cold wind









Program is free. Just pm me.

***NOTE***

If this is against rules of the forum, please do delete this post.
No harm or scam is intended on this post.
Just trying to make life a bit easier for people who are reinstalling their pc a bit too often


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol i already turned the mobo dvd into an iso because of that. Too many reinstalls


----------



## Mappi75

Got a new Black and now its running perfect with my memory:

*Kingston HyperX DIMM XMP Kit 64GB, DDR3-1600, CL9 (KHX16C9K8/64X)*


----------



## Pixcat

Hello everyone I have been sharing with you guys mounting the monoblock of Ek and the temperatures I got.


Temperatures:


I have to warn my WC system is nothing special.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> You are most welcome for the help, we do what we can to help others enjoy their builds and to make it easier. ESPECIALLY on a first build, it is always exciting to watch it come together for someone!
> 
> Okay, I will attack this one question by question...
> 
> First, when I was using the Phankteks, I was able to fit the Vengeance pro beneath it just fine, but regular vengeance requiredbme to move the fan up a couple of mm's. (Although. This was on an Asus P8Z77-V Pro, but I suspect the spacing is within the same distance, though you should verify this beforehand).
> 
> As for placing the modules closest to the CPU, with the tall DIMM's it I'd going to be difficult with the Phanteks, personally, unless you have already ordered your RAM, and can not cancel, I would strongly suggest finding some VLP DIMM's. In your brand of choice. Unfortunately some things I can not verify on this board for certain, but I can do some reference work, and get back to you, as I no longer have the Z77 board, so I can not do a direct comparison but I can make a phone call and have a friend measure it for me.
> 
> Personally, I loved the Phanteks! It was overall quiet, when tuned properly in BIOS or AiSuite, and it kept my 4.7GHz 3770K below 70℃ for the most part. As for the PWM, that was my ONLY caveat with them. Unless they have made some changes, they were indeed NOT PWM fans. However, ironically, I put a couple of Noctua NF-A14 fans on to replace the stock fans (which were donated to my server/HTPC), and although they were even quieter and kept things a bit cooler, they were very ugly, and it took some time to find good profiles.
> 
> Also, prepare for a lot of flack from the Noctua fanboys, heaven forbid any competetitor develop a better product! As if competition is bad for the consumer... lol
> 
> I wish I had more clear and concise answers on the RAM/heatsink issue, but once more, going with LP or VLP (half the size of a normal DIMM, JUST the DIMM, so VERY, VERY tiny, they WILL fit!!! (-: )
> 
> If you would like I will certainly get a hold or my friend and find out about those tolerances, and how they compare, in order to tell you if the Vengeance Pro DIMM's will fit. My thought, however, is probably not in the closest to CPU slots.


The Corsair Vengeance Pro, in case anyone else is wondering, has a height of 45mm and the clearance from the motherboard floor to the bottom of the heatsink of both the Noctua NH-D14 and Phanteks PH-TC14PE is 2" or 50mm, I have also seen pictures of the Vengeance Pro with clearance. The issue for me was having to position the intake fan higher, it is more of an aesthetic issue as even then with the case I have, a Corsair Air 540 with 195mm of clearance for coolers, doing this wouldn't be a problem, I just don't like having the intake fan sitting half an inch or so higher out of alignment with the rest of the cooler.

Having looked at the option and consequences of removing the heatspreaders from the memory I opted for that solution, as there will be adequate air circulation about the motherboard in this case and from what I gather the heatspreaders are mostly aesthetic, in fact, coming from an Alienware M18x R2, the 4x4G of 1866 Mhz Corsair Vengeance in that HAD NO HEATSPREADERS TO SPEAK OF IN AN ENTIRELY ENCLOSED SPACE.

My only hope now is that this particular RAM actually works.

As far as the dick measuring contest between Noctua and Phateks goes, here is my take as newcomer with no particular preference for either one, the Phanteks PH-TC14PE outperforms the Noctua NH-D14 by 3 C under load in nearly all of the tests I have come across.

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2






It has the exact same footprint but with a wider selection of colors (this is actually a big deal, the black-and-white is going to fit perfect with the arctic white w/black Corsair Air 540, it will actually look like a custom rig). While the Noctua seems to be about 3 dB quieter under load in most testing and it has to be said that the Noctua seems to have better quality control as it seems the recent Phanteks have some crimping going on near the bottom of the heat-pipes.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1106307/official-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-news-discussion-and-owners-thread/1320

Were talking about the comparison of the Phanteks PH-TC14PE and the Noctua NH-D14, the newer NH-D15 outperforms the Phanteks by about 2 C in some tests I've come across while it is about on par performance wise in the review above.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2014/05/01/noctua-nh-d15-review/2

I initially had decided on the D15, the problem is, with certain boards including RIVBE, the additional 10mm of width means that unlike the D14 where it is a tight fight, it will now actually cover the first pci-e slot. I considered this possibility but just a few days ago I confirmed it with Noctua's compatibility chart and reconsidered this cooler, just in case for whatever reason I feel that I need more than one non-reference 780 Ti down the road (playing newer games at 2560x1440 on a G-Sync monitor and wanting 120 FPS perhaps?).

The fact that the Phanteks PH-TC14PE doesn't block the first pci-e slot, has a matching color pattern, offers comparable performance to even the D15 AND was purchased for $40 less than the D15 ($69, on sale newegg). That was a no-brainer.

Only issue now is sorting out the potential lack of PWM and or trying to figure out how to adjust the fans.

Oh and speaking of which, the air cooler arrived this morning so I am going to attempt to put this thing altogether for the first time! It will be exciting, any tips are welcome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I'm selling these: http://www.overclock.net/t/1490947/gskill-ram-4x4-ddr3-2666-c11/0_20 (work at 2133, 2400 100 strap, 2333, 2666 125 strap on the R4BE). NOt sure they fit under that cooler tho.


If this memory I have doesn't work I might be interested in those actually, I will let you know, thanks for the offer.


----------



## Pixcat

Not yet had time to better test the performace of the block, but nevertheless had to take some precautions with the mounting block.


----------



## vulcan78

Update: I just unboxed the Phanteks PH-TC14PE and it doesn't have the crimping issue, at least not nearly as bad as those shown in my recent post.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Please Help need confirmation.

Is there suppose to be 2 x LGA 2011-A Back plates for the R4BGE one mounted on the mother board and a alternative LGA 2011 A Back Plate?

The contents in the box for the R4BE that I purchased does not have the alternative back plate. The contents has one back plate that is already mounted on the motherboard.

Planning on installing the EK-FB-ASUS-RE4B-MONO-NA in step three of the instructions says to replace the back plate and use the Alternative LGA -2011A Back Plate.

Thank You


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Please Help need confirmation.
> 
> Is there suppose to be 2 x LGA 2011-A Back plates for the R4BGE one mounted on the mother board and a alternative LGA 2011 A Back Plate?
> 
> The contents in the box for the R4BE that I purchased does not have the alternative back plate. The contents has one back plate that is already mounted on the motherboard.
> 
> Planning on installing the EK-FB-ASUS-RE4B-MONO-NA in step three of the instructions says to replace the back plate and use the Alternative LGA -2011A Back Plate.
> 
> Thank You


Yes there is an alternative backplate. Just checked my boxes and they do have one.


----------



## Pixcat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Please Help need confirmation.
> 
> Is there suppose to be 2 x LGA 2011-A Back plates for the R4BGE one mounted on the mother board and a alternative LGA 2011 A Back Plate?
> 
> The contents in the box for the R4BE that I purchased does not have the alternative back plate. The contents has one back plate that is already mounted on the motherboard.
> 
> Planning on installing the EK-FB-ASUS-RE4B-MONO-NA in step three of the instructions says to replace the back plate and use the Alternative LGA -2011A Back Plate.
> 
> Thank You


Yes you will need one of these.


And also you need to give attention to the block, I had to make some modifications before mounting everything in place.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Yes you will need one off this

Thank you do not have the plate hopefully the computer shop where I purchased the R4BE has the plate?


----------



## Pixcat

When I mount the block I noticed that the screws on the mosfets area are not the correct size and were out of the face 0.5 mm. as you can see in the image.


A bit closer:


And this happens because the screws are too long 0.5 mm.
As the picture shows:


One more.


Here to see the 3 screws.
And all out off the face.
As the picture shows:


I decided to solve the problem.
I do not want to lose the warranty on the board because of a broken or damaged mosfet.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Yes there is an alternative back plate. Just checked my boxes and they do have one.

Thank you for checking.

The better half went shopping stopped by the computer shop and returned with the back Plate. Time for a trip to the flower shop









Yes you will need one off this. Thank you for the picture

And also you need to give attention to the block, I had to make some modifications before mounting everything in place.

See the dents in the thermal pad from the screws.

It is hard to tell what you did from the pictures with out the water block in hand? Changed the Standoffs out in the water block for longer ones or added the washers? Raise by 0.05 mm?

Are you happy with the performance of the block?


----------



## Pixcat

I removed the length with a tool to be all the same perfect face for not having unevenness of faces.


On the back of the board, also had to make some modifications.
The screws that comes with the block has a very large head, which can be a problem for some boxes.
In my case I have a Silverstone FT02, and the board is just leaning against the bottom of the box, which can cause warping and perhaps additional problems.

I have not used these screws.




As you can see almost 7mm ...


Personally I prefer this method:



Simple and perfect.


I hope you enjoy.


----------



## Pixcat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Yes there is an alternative back plate. Just checked my boxes and they do have one.
> 
> Thank you for checking.
> 
> The better half went shopping stopped by the computer shop and returned with the back Plate. Time for a trip to the flower shop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you will need one off this. Thank you for the picture
> 
> And also you need to give attention to the block, I had to make some modifications before mounting everything in place.
> 
> See the dents in the thermal pad from the screws.
> 
> It is hard to tell what you did from the pictures with out the water block in hand? Changed the Standoffs out in the water block for longer ones or added the washers? Raise by 0.05 mm?
> 
> Are you happy with the performance of the block?


I removed 0.5mm on the bolts, and smoothed the area of the thread in order to get the right face without imperfections.

The block is fantastic but for the price it costs is also true that it could be a little better.
I'm not regretting having purchased it.


----------



## Pixcat

In the cpu area, Ek says on the manual as you can see it comes with a washer, in my package came only with washers for 3mm bolts.


So I had to put some, but for those who will assemble this block, it is very important to be careful because it can damage the circuits that are very close to the CPU holes.


If the tightening is done without proper plastic washers is possible that damage some circuits, not forget that it is the area of the cpu.

I hope that in the future this information may be useful for other forum members.
I apologize for my pictures not a little better they were taken with my phone.


----------



## Goggle Eye

I hope that in the future this information may be useful for other forum members.
I apologize for my pictures not a little better they were taken with my phone

No need to apologize for the pictures they are fine. Appreciate the information on the install you did the information is a benefit. EK is using the stock washers for the M-4s. Good to know that 0.50mm needs to be removed from the M4 bolts for a proper fit. Think it would be a good idea for any one to check the clearances as you did. The M-4 used on the R4BE back plate may have some variances in length either longer or shorter than the M-4s you used.

Thanks for mentioning the snug fir on the alternate Back plate.


----------



## Pixcat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> I hope that in the future this information may be useful for other forum members.
> I apologize for my pictures not a little better they were taken with my phone
> 
> No need to apologize for the pictures they are fine. Appreciate the information on the install you did the information is a benefit. EK is using the stock washers for the M-4s. Good to know that 0.50mm needs to be removed from the M4 bolts for a proper fit. Think it would be a good idea for any one to check the clearances as you did. The M-4 used on the R4BE back plate may have some variances in length either longer or shorter than the M-4s you used.
> 
> Thanks for mentioning the snug fir on the alternate Back plate.


I just removed the 0.5mm on screws that are in direct contact with the termalpad.
These screws are 3mm not 4mm.


----------



## Heremod

Dear all.
I a few days i will be too a proud owner of a RIVBE.
But I have a dilemma.
I already have a CREATIVE SOUND BLASTER Z sound card, and seeing all the audio components on the mobo has made the question profound...
Which is better?
Onboard or dedicated? (I know some will say sound is a subjective kind of thing, but I just want to know the facts about the onboard VS dedicated overall quality {the SBZ is equipped with the golden caps})

Thanks.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heremod*
> 
> Dear all.
> I a few days i will be too a proud owner of a RIVBE.
> But I have a dilemma.
> I already have a CREATIVE SOUND BLASTER Z sound card, and seeing all the audio components on the mobo has made the question profound...
> Which is better?
> Onboard or dedicated? (I know some will say sound is a subjective kind of thing, but I just want to know the facts about the onboard VS dedicated overall quality {the SBZ is equipped with the golden caps})
> 
> Thanks.


If you have the card already, then try both and compare. Audio stuff at this level is highly subjective, and everyone will feel differently. Maybe your sound card works better with your speakers, or some such thing. The onboard is pretty decent though, headphone output is pretty good, and significantly louder than rear panel. Some people don't like the relay click the onboard makes as driver loads though. I don't even hear mine anymore, actually...


----------



## Heremod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If you have the card already, then try both and compare. Audio stuff at this level is highly subjective, and everyone will feel differently. Maybe your sound card works better with your speakers, or some such thing. The onboard is pretty decent though, headphone output is pretty good.


So I suppose there are no significant "quality" differencies between the two considering the capacitors (ELNA vs NIchikon Gold)/other stuff quality on them. OK then. I'll try the hearing test and let my ears decide (if I can feel any difference)...
thanks for the quick responce!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heremod*
> 
> So I suppose there are no significant "quality" differencies between the two considering the capacitors (ELNA vs NIchikon Gold)/other stuff quality on them. OK then. I'll try the hearing test and let my ears decide (if I can feel any difference)...
> thanks for the quick responce!


I'd say that there are differences, but the differences are too many for it to simply say "this is better". Much depends on speakers and headphones you use, too, I think. Then you can add in software preference, and settings, EQ, etc...

Myself, I'm running 3x 780 Ti in mine, so slots are at a premium, and I'd rather have less PCIe device installed.

This board has above-average onboard audio, making add-in card use questionable, and that's all I can say. But maybe you like the card better...so give it a try if you have the slot space.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I love Aida64
> 
> 
> Don't mind the arrow, i took that screenshot for something else. Aida goes great with the R4BE tho. My x79 Extreme 6 only had like half those power/voltage sensors
> 
> All that blank space is where my 2nd 290x info goes, it's in rma right now


how do you do that, all i can show is text ! i love both adia and hwinfo !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pixcat*
> 
> Hello everyone I have been sharing with you guys mounting the monoblock of Ek and the temperatures I got.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temperatures:
> 
> 
> 
> I have to warn my WC system is nothing special.


thanks i have been debating about gettign it, it looks so good i esp love the rampage BE logo they have on it, but i have decided not to as much as i like the looks i like to be able to take off only one thing..... when i want to play with my CPU


----------



## JcAuleyJ

CHECK IT OUT! M-ATX BLACK EDITION FOR THE X99 CHIPSET IS BEING RUMOURED!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491601/asus-m-atx-x99-black-edition-rumours


----------



## Mega Man

@JcAuleyJ
i hate when people spam


----------



## JcAuleyJ

It isn't spam, it's a serious question that needs to be addressed.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I love Aida64
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't mind the arrow, i took that screenshot for something else. Aida goes great with the R4BE tho. My x79 Extreme 6 only had like half those power/voltage sensors
> 
> All that blank space is where my 2nd 290x info goes, it's in rma right now
> 
> 
> 
> how do you do that, all i can show is text ! i love both adia and hwinfo !
Click to expand...

I liked using hwinfo too for some extra aquasuite sensors but using aida & hwinfo at the same time can conflict sometimes. If you ever notice that sometimes your gpu's don't show up on your sensor panel, it's because you have hwinfo open too.

As for your question, you can right click on the panel and add things or go to the sensor panel manager. That actually took me a cpl hours to accomplish i think. If you right click one of the temp sensors it comes with, then copy & paste it, you can right click and move the pasted one wherever you want. Then right click it again and choose modify, and change the sensor or the type of icon it shows for it.

I won't be back at my Desktop til tomorrow afternoon, but i have that panel backed up to a file. If you give me somewhere to send it, you can just import it into your aida and customize it.

Also, as far as x99 RVBE, don't the BE's usually get released wayyyyy after the original boards? The RIVE BE wasn't announced til IB-E was almost out already

Ughhh i'm too gullible, that's definitely spam!!!

Edit: @Mega Man when you say all it shows is text, do you mean even the stock sensor sensor panel? It should have the Mobo, CPU, & PCH temp bars along with all 6/8 cores. If it doesn't have that, you might be checking the OSD instead of Sensor Panel. They're 2 different things in options. OSD will show over your Desktop kinda similar to the Sensor Panel but not as customizable.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pixcat*
> 
> In the cpu area, Ek says on the manual as you can see it comes with a washer, in my package came only with washers for 3mm bolts.
> 
> 
> So I had to put some, but for those who will assemble this block, it is very important to be careful because it can damage the circuits that are very close to the CPU holes.
> 
> 
> If the tightening is done without proper plastic washers is possible that damage some circuits, not forget that it is the area of the cpu.
> 
> I hope that in the future this information may be useful for other forum members.
> I apologize for my pictures not a little better they were taken with my phone.


Hey I just installed my block as well and it seemed like the screws I was supplied with are not the same as yours. I did not have any screws that required the allen key for the cpu area. I also had to use my own rubber washers for the cpu socket area because the screws I had did not fit through the plastic washers. I also had left over screws as well, is this normal? I bought the block straight from EK.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## 4lek

Could somene please try to Run or install CATZILLA with something connected to Asmedia Serial Ata connectors?


----------



## Pixcat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Hey I just installed my block as well and it seemed like the screws I was supplied with are not the same as yours. I did not have any screws that required the allen key for the cpu area. I also had to use my own rubber washers for the cpu socket area because the screws I had did not fit through the plastic washers. I also had left over screws as well, is this normal? I bought the block straight from EK.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hello can you post some photos ? Did you remove 0.5mm on thermalpad 3mm screws?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> derp... nvm... forgot about the ROG extension.
> 
> 99.99% of motherboards only ever have one USB 3.0 header, as the plug for it is huge.
> I wouldn't really say it's built around the OC panel, it's just fluff that most people don't use. It does a TERRIBLE job @ reporting voltages. Who says? My Digital Multi-meter says.


Is there any better way of connecting the USB 3.0 cable to the mobo header... Like a 90 degree cable adaptor or some other option to make cable connection more attractive and let intrusive inside the case. I need to connect the 2x USB 3.0 cables from the front of my ST10, and so far the vertical configuration that the mobo header is in, it looks ugly as sin.


----------



## Mega Man

there are but most are diy, moddiy has a cable you can buy

last i knew there was more actually ( different types of connectors )

http://www.moddiy.com/search.php?search_query=usb3.0+cable+low+profile&x=0&y=0


----------



## Ajay57

+1 To this one as i have used this in the past and found it worked really well!!









1, http://www.moddiy.com/products/Motherboard-USB-3.0-19%252dPin-to-USB3.0-x-2-Cable-Adaptor.html

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there are but most are diy, moddiy has a cable you can buy


That one doesn't look too bad. I guess I can live with it. ...+1 rep. If one of the ends had a 90 degree right angle, it would be icing on the cake.

Then there's something like this I guess:


----------



## Mega Man

that would be to mod your mobo
meaning remove the header on your mobo and then solder that to it


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pixcat*
> 
> Hello can you post some photos ? Did you remove 0.5mm on thermalpad 3mm screws?


If you are talking about the two screws used to connect the mosfet backplate, I used the included washers for extra spacing since I saw your post and since my situation left me with spares. You can see it in the first picture I had.


----------



## Goggle Eye

thanks i have been debating about gettign it, it looks so good i esp love the rampage BE logo they have on it, but i have decided not to as much as i like the looks i like to be able to take off only one thing..... when i want to play with my CPU

Thinking the same thing the Mono Block really looks clean the temps are not bad at 4.1 GHz how ever there is a few dis advantages. Still looking for a review comparison to the Moffset, S/Bridge and CPU EK Blocks tested on the same system.

+1 To this one as i have used this in the past and found it worked really well!! thumb.gif

1, http://www.moddiy.com/products/Motherboard-USB-3.0-19%252dPin-to-USB3.0-x-2-Cable-Adaptor.html

Solved the problem









Thanks


----------



## ledzepp3

Anyone running a PCI SSD could give me a hand here. Just booted into my RIVE:BE BIOS and it pops up a window saying I need to change CSM parameters. I'm using an Asus Raidr just for a little more storage space, so what setting (in the CSM BIOS tab) should I use if I'll be booting off of it?

-Zepp


----------



## kpoeticg

Glad to hear you got a working board now









I dont have a PCIE SSD, but i don't think the type of ssd should affect CSM. CSM should be affected by whether you installed windows onto the ssd with uefi or legacy bios. If CSM isn't enabled, enable it. You might just need to enable boot drive to boot from legacy. There's not alot of different options, so you should be able to figure it out pretty quick


----------



## ledzepp3

My PCI lane switch wasn't on for the second slot where the SSD is, it's all good now


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*


I wasn't sure what the issue was, but it's fixed. Now I've lost my W7 installation disk but still have a code, issue after issue- I swear


----------



## Shadowarez

My system came together like a dream till I updated the bios then dream turned into nightmare of instabilities 500Mhz slower cpu clock.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I wasn't sure what the issue was, but it's fixed. Now I've lost my W7 installation disk but still have a code, issue after issue- I swear


As long as you still have a legal/valid code to activate/register the OS, you can still download Win 7 OS for free from Microsoft. That's what the free Microsoft downloads are for, so you can use the OS for the 30 day trial or until you activate with a valid code.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Legal+Digital+River+Links+for+Windows+7

Just make sure you download only from Microsoft's Digital River distributor and that you get the version your code is good for (Home Premium, Professional, Ultimate, etc). The most current versions are the 'Win 7 SP1 Media Refresh' which will save you a bit of time later on downloading Microsoft Updates.


----------



## vulcan78

I got it all together, I could use some help in the overclocking dept. if anyone is feeling generous:






Specs:

CPU: i7 4930 @ ~4.7 Ghz (48,48,47,47,46,46 1.4 VCore)

GPU: EVGA 780 Ti SC w/ ACX Cooler

Case: Corsair Air 540

Motherboard: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition

Cooling: Phanteks PH-TC14PE

PSU: Corsair RM 850

Memory: 2 x 8G Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133 Mhz (heatspreaders removed, although at a height of 45mm they will fit under the heat-sink of both the Phanteks PH-TC14PE, Noctua NH-D14 and D15, I just didn't want the intake fan sitting half an inch or so higher, out of alignment as the second stick sits right under here)

Storage: 2x 500G 7500 RPM HDD's and one 258G SSD

OS: Windows 7

Total cost: $2100 (not counting the monitor, keyboard, mouse and Astro A50's which I already owned, just everything above.)

Some benchmarks:

3DMark 11

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8363652

Firestrike

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/2190427

More:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/alienware-18-m18x/752285-my-m18x-turned-into-zombie-so-now-i-m-building-monster-desktop-i-always-talked-about-17.html#post9669209


----------



## vulcan78

Here's the follow up video showing the noise under full load and heat generated under Prime95 at 4.75Ghz with 1.472 V.


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Here's the follow up video showing the noise under full load and heat generated under Prime95 at 4.75Ghz with 1.472 V.


Not much of an ocer myself but I am pretty sure the highest you want to go is 1.4. Seems thats the rule of thumb I have read from everyone else, unless you want to kill the chip.


----------



## kpoeticg

It's a general rule of thumb, especially for 24/7, but once you get a feel for your temps you can test it higher if you really wanna. I had to go north of 1.5 to get 5GHz stable-ish. I just did it for testing tho and never used it. I keep my rig at 4.5 usually ~1.24 VCore

Edit: I also bought an Intel Tuning Plan Warranty tho in case i burn out my chip. Temps are the most important thing when your doing short-term clocks for testing or gaming as long as you don't go nuts with the voltage.


----------



## vulcan78

\]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> Not much of an ocer myself but I am pretty sure the highest you want to go is 1.4. Seems thats the rule of thumb I have read from everyone else, unless you want to kill the chip.


I always thought that as long as temps are kept in check the sky is the limit with voltage, as you can see from the videos, I'm not hitting 80 C. Peaks around 75 C and those are peaks, 90% of the time it is between 67-72 C.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's a general rule of thumb, especially for 24/7, but once you get a feel for your temps you can test it higher if you really wanna. I had to go north of 1.5 to get 5GHz stable-ish. I just did it for testing tho and never used it. I keep my rig at 4.5 usually ~1.24 VCore
> 
> Edit: I also bought an Intel Tuning Plan Warranty tho in case i burn out my chip. Temps are the most important thing when your doing short-term clocks for testing or gaming as long as you don't go nuts with the voltage.


5 Ghz with a 4930 at only 1.5 V? Yeah there is an issue then because I need 1.5 V just to do 4.75 Ghz. I also just purchased the 'Intel Tuning Plan' , peace of mind.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah the warranty's well worth it for piece of mind lol. Also nice in case you wanna upgrade, a BNIB cpu back from rma will sell alot easier than an old/used cpu.

For short-term clocking, skies the limit AFAIK as long as you got sufficient cooling. Sufficient cooling for "sky's the limit" = LN2 tho, and there's nothing 24/7 about that







I think higher volts might shorten the lifespan of the silicon even with good cooling, but probly not enough that people who upgrade would notice. I'm far from an expert tho

All CPU's are different. There's more settings that affect clocks than just VCore. It was "Aida64 Stress-Test Stable" not "Prime95 Stable"


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *webhito*
> 
> Not much of an ocer myself but I am pretty sure the highest you want to go is 1.4. Seems thats the rule of thumb I have read from everyone else, unless you want to kill the chip.
> 
> 
> 
> I always thought that as long as temps are kept in check the sky is the limit with voltage, as you can see from the videos, I'm not hitting 80 C. Peaks around 75 C and those are peaks, 90% of the time it is between 67-72 C.
Click to expand...

this is true on amds fx, not intel. they blow up
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's a general rule of thumb, especially for 24/7, but once you get a feel for your temps you can test it higher if you really wanna. I had to go north of 1.5 to get 5GHz stable-ish. I just did it for testing tho and never used it. I keep my rig at 4.5 usually ~1.24 VCore
> 
> Edit: I also bought an Intel Tuning Plan Warranty tho in case i burn out my chip. Temps are the most important thing when your doing short-term clocks for testing or gaming as long as you don't go nuts with the voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> 5 Ghz with a 4930 at only 1.5 V? Yeah there is an issue then because I need 1.5 V just to do 4.75 Ghz. I also just purchased the 'Intel Tuning Plan' , peace of mind.
Click to expand...

no. each chip is dirfferent, just because they can do 5ghz, does not mean you can let alone at that voltage


----------



## kpoeticg

Don't people push 1.7/1.8 in benching competitions with LN2 tho? Obviously i'm referring to short-term oc'ing, but i thought for temporary situations you could push em as far as temps allow


----------



## Mega Man

if you are willing to risk _*immediate degradation*_ of your chip yes


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, i'll take your word for it. Like i said, even after i hit 5GHz at 1.5, i never loaded that profile again

I know you got more experience than me. I didn't realize LN2 benching degraded the cpu that quickly tho. Good to know...

Edit: Extreme cooling setups are damn expensive compared to watercooling. Kinda seems a little pointless now that you made that point =\


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol, i'll take your word for it. Like i said, even after i hit 5GHz at 1.5, i never loaded that profile again
> 
> I know you got more experience than me. I didn't realize LN2 benching degraded the cpu that quickly tho. Good to know...
> 
> Edit: Extreme cooling setups are damn expensive compared to watercooling. Kinda seems a little pointless now that you made that point =\


no new to ocing intels at all. last intel i owned was a c2d and i swore i would never oc.....

i know my way around amd chips though !


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm new to OC'ing period. Was always a console gamer, so never had a need to push my pc's til i decided to be a pc gamer.

Everything i know is pretty much from Raja's guide's & posts and Cadaveca's posts, along with other people that share in this thread. Plus my limited experience playing around since i bought this board









Edit: Also stuff i learned reading posts from Raja, Arne, Hiviz, MykSilent on the rog forums when i was trying to diagnose my bootloop issue


----------



## Gualichu04

Is there at all anyway to disble the annoying whitte light onthe start button on the motherbaord. My only solution is to turn off power to the computer completely at night so i don't have this annoying white spot light while I sleep. The white light really kills the look of the all black and red lighted motherboard.


----------



## Mega Man

electrical tape


----------



## SDMODNoob

Just wanted to leave an update for people who might run into my situation with the monoblock for the R4BE. I am using the original CSQ version and the package came with different screws than other users. This was EK's response:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Dear customer,

Thank you for contacting EK Support.

We are sorry for the problem; it looks like there is a mistake in that part of the installation manual.
Please use Philips screw driver to install this screws.

You will not have any problems using these screws.

Once again, I hope you will accept my apologies for the inconvenience caused.

If there is anything else that we can do to minimize your inconvenience in regard to this matter, please don't hesitate to contact us.

Kind regards, Peter Šajn



Don't know why he says its an instruction manual error as some people did have allen headed screws. However, it is good news that the screws I received are usable without fear of damage. Just remember to use washers!


----------



## vulcan78

Hey everyone, I am having a strange issue where VCore is decreasing under load and increasing at idle. It does this irrespective of whether both VCore and VCCSA are set to "Manual" or "Offset". The problem started after I experimented with a negative offset value "-". I've even tried loading the secondary BIOS and the problem persists. Right now i am at 45x6 with 1.375 V Manual. Under load this drops to 1.34 V and I will usually terminate WPrime95 as the last time I had it set to 1.35V with a positive offset value "+" of .05 hoping to get it to idle at 1.35 and do ~1.375V under load it still insisted on dropping down to 1.32V under load which resulted in a BSOD in under 5 minutes!

Troubleshooting wise I have gone so far as loading a default profile on the secondary BIOS and only setting it to "XMP" with the cores set to 45x6, just to eliminate any other settings. It still does this.

Another issue I am having is that I can't seem to get C-States to work in conjunction with Offset voltage. I have tried both "auto" and "enabled" and have also set "CPU Power Phase Control" to both standard, optimized, and auto as I heard that Extreme might prevent C-States and Voltage Offset from working. No matter what it doesn't drop under whatever I have it set to at idle (Manual) and even on Manual it will still drop voltage as though its set to Offset with a negative value "-"!

What?!

Is it the voltage control module?

I'm on 0507 and using an i7 4930.

I'm almost tempted to try 0602 but the only information I could find via google isn't good, most are having issues with that BIOS.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## kpoeticg

Try setting Load Line Calibration to Medium, and turning Intel Speedstep to Off. Also try forgetting about offset for the time being just til you pinpoint the issue. Use a set VCore

Maybe some1 else will have better suggestions. There's a real good thread on the rog forums about using Offset. Well 2 actually

http://rog.asus.com/51092012/overclocking/overclocking-using-offset-mode-for-cpu-core-voltage/

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46169-RlBE-Offset-OC-(-)&country=&status=


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I ordered the monoblock last week, along with some RAM blocks, and I just got confirmation that they shipped today. I plan on modifying these new blocks just like I did with my current R4BE blocks. Only this time, I'll polish the water channels a lot longer than I did with the other blocks.

That reminds me, I haven't seen that many pictures of installed monoblocks here... are people buying these things or what?


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol i can't speak for everybody, but i already spent too much on my blocks and getting everything lined up with acrylic tubing to buy the Monoblock. Also they only come Nickel Plated which kinda throws off my all Clean CSQ Copper/Plexi theme


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Hey everyone, I am having a strange issue where VCore is decreasing under load and increasing at idle. It does this irrespective of whether both VCore and VCCSA are set to "Manual" or "Offset". The problem started after I experimented with a negative offset value "-". I've even tried loading the secondary BIOS and the problem persists. Right now i am at 45x6 with 1.375 V Manual. Under load this drops to 1.34 V and I will usually terminate WPrime95 as the last time I had it set to 1.35V with a positive offset value "+" of .05 hoping to get it to idle at 1.35 and do ~1.375V under load it still insisted on dropping down to 1.32V under load which resulted in a BSOD in under 5 minutes!
> 
> Troubleshooting wise I have gone so far as loading a default profile on the secondary BIOS and only setting it to "XMP" with the cores set to 45x6, just to eliminate any other settings. It still does this.
> 
> Another issue I am having is that I can't seem to get C-States to work in conjunction with Offset voltage. I have tried both "auto" and "enabled" and have also set "CPU Power Phase Control" to both standard, optimized, and auto as I heard that Extreme might prevent C-States and Voltage Offset from working. No matter what it doesn't drop under whatever I have it set to at idle (Manual) and even on Manual it will still drop voltage as though its set to Offset with a negative value "-"!
> 
> What?!
> 
> Is it the voltage control module?
> 
> I'm on 0507 and using an i7 4930.
> 
> I'm almost tempted to try 0602 but the only information I could find via google isn't good, most are having issues with that BIOS.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


it is called vdroop and it is normal.

also to note it is also good.

llc can counteract that but you dont want too much as it will over volt then. , as suggested use med


----------



## stebbiro

Ohhh Yeah... Look what survived the train wreck.



Now I can have the tag legally.


----------



## kpoeticg

Congrats. Welcome to the club!!!

Board looks great. My OCD makes me tell you to replace those Poop-Brown Noctua's with some White NB eLoops or Black/Gray Gentle Typhoons tho. Both are better fans than Noctua's also.

Just a suggestion


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol i can't speak for everybody, but i already spent too much on my blocks and getting everything lined up with acrylic tubing to buy the Monoblock. Also they only come Nickel Plated which kinda throws off my all Clean CSQ Copper/Plexi theme


I hear you. Like yourself, I spent way too much money getting my acrylic tubing all dialed in just right for my current build. But the moment I saw the monoblock, I knew I just had to have it, even if my loop was completely finished. I still have to finish my electrical, which I have other items currently being shipped, but I figure if I don't like the way the monoblock looks on my build, I can always switch back to my old loop. I mean it's not like I'm going to destroy those original acrylic bends I've already created. Although the monoblock requires fewer fittings I have to use, I can make up for that creating some unique bends.


----------



## kpoeticg

I saw my first pic of the Monoblock the day after i finished linking up my board









I had to rma cuz of bootloop issue and i have a new board now without the blocks attached yet, but i spent too much time and money. I didn't even take apart the loop really, just removed the blocks before rma and kept everything as connected as possible.





Then the next day the Monoblock pics were posted in the WC Club thread


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Try setting Load Line Calibration to Medium, and turning Intel Speedstep to Off. Also try forgetting about offset for the time being just til you pinpoint the issue. Use a set VCore
> 
> Maybe some1 else will have better suggestions. There's a real good thread on the rog forums about using Offset. Well 2 actually
> http://rog.asus.com/51092012/overclocking/overclocking-using-offset-mode-for-cpu-core-voltage/
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46169-RlBE-Offset-OC-(-)&country=&status=


Ok I will check out these threads, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol i can't speak for everybody, but i already spent too much on my blocks and getting everything lined up with acrylic tubing to buy the Monoblock. Also they only come Nickel Plated which kinda throws off my all Clean CSQ Copper/Plexi theme


How is having the voltage come down when you need it to go up (under load) and going up when you need it to go down (at idle) a good thing? I will look into vdroop to see if this is indeed what I am experiencing.


----------



## Errorist66

When I strap my CPU at 125MHz, I land around 1.385V CPU Vcore but with LLC at Ultra-high so it's 1.404V. A bit above my tolerance threshold.

I want to find a lower VCore for the CPU so my question is should I raise VCCSA from the 1.14v (auto) to 1.2 or 1.25?
and the first VTT from 1.05 to 1.2 or less? PLL is at 1.8 and the 2nd VTT is also 1.05 but if I load up it sometimes start to blue screen and poweroff. I don't think it's temperature causing the issue since I have everything but the RAM under water.

I have Vcore on offset at +0.385 so under load the voltage goes a bit higher.

edit: Start stress test and vcore goes to 1.42v but then goes back down to 1.392v.


----------



## kpoeticg

Using offset and ultra-high llc is couter-intuitive from what i understand. I'd start by lowering llc to medium most definitely. I think the point of offset is to not use llc at all...

I personally haven't had alot of luck with messing with different straps and bclk's on this board, so can't advise much in that area.

The VCCSA and VTT sound reasonable. I'd try one at a time. VCCSA controls your cpu's communication with ram. VTT controls communication with PCH/PCIE.

The reason they separate VTT and VTT2 is so you don't have to touch VTT2. I'm pretty sure that's not really meant to be OV'd unless you REALLY know why you're doing it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Try setting Load Line Calibration to Medium, and turning Intel Speedstep to Off. Also try forgetting about offset for the time being just til you pinpoint the issue. Use a set VCore
> 
> Maybe some1 else will have better suggestions. There's a real good thread on the rog forums about using Offset. Well 2 actually
> http://rog.asus.com/51092012/overclocking/overclocking-using-offset-mode-for-cpu-core-voltage/
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46169-RlBE-Offset-OC-(-)&country=&status=
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I will check out these threads, thanks.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol i can't speak for everybody, but i already spent too much on my blocks and getting everything lined up with acrylic tubing to buy the Monoblock. Also they only come Nickel Plated which kinda throws off my all Clean CSQ Copper/Plexi theme
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How is having the voltage come down when you need it to go up (under load) and going up when you need it to go down (at idle) a good thing? I will look into vdroop to see if this is indeed what I am experiencing.
Click to expand...

first of all vdroop is besides being designed, to protect the cpu is just normal for electricity.

vdroop was made to protect your cpu, the reason being if your vrms just tried to maintain vcore, there would be spikes upon coming to load and leaving ( will get into this in a min )

so when you use a microwave or a vacuum and you have a light on you see it dim right? the reason being is the voltage drops due to the inrush of amps into the other appliance.

that is vdroop now if your vrms tried to compensate for this at cpu load they would over shoot ( too much voltage ) same thing upon cpu dropping load. there would be another spike.

so volts going from higher at idle to lower at load is 100% normal and wanted.

as to offset you can use llc with it. without issue.

lastly volts do not kill a cpu. the amps do hence why in the latest bios update everyone was complaining about the ocs needing more volts but the amp draw went down ( which is why raja didnt care, and i personally think he is right. )

this seems to explain it well
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[Adz]*
> 
> A little old, but I'll join in anyway.
> 
> vDroop - the difference between the idle and load voltage.. Generally, you get a higher voltage when idling than when at full load. That's because it works as a self-protection mechanism to prevent too much voltage surging into the chip and frying it, or not giving it enough power.
> 
> For example, if your chip needs can take a voltage range of 1.35v - 1.55v, you might find that your idle voltage is around 1.50v. When you put it under full load, it'd drop to 1.47v. That's vDroop.
> 
> The board gives it extra voltage at idle so that when the chip goes into full load it can handle the negative voltage drop without going below the minimum 1.35v.
> 
> Likewise, the voltage upshoot from from full load to idle is protected by vOffset. That's the difference between your idle voltage and the maximum the chip can handle. You might find that when switching from full load to idle the voltage goes over the 1.50v and then comes back down to settle at 1.50v. That's to give it some room up top away from the 1.55v maximum.
> 
> Images to help explain from this article on Anandtech.
> *With vOffset:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Without vOffset:*


----------



## kpoeticg

Informative post. Thanx +1

Edit: Isn't offset and LLC kinda trying to achieve the same thing in different ways tho?

Like i thought offset was for trying to tune in specific load and idle voltages, while llc was giving your system permission to veer off further or less in each direction

Like i said, still new to OC'ing personally and reading too many informative posts sometimes when scrambling for answers jumbles stuff together in my brain sometimes and i remember wrong


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Using offset and ultra-high llc is couter-intuitive from what i understand. I'd start by lowering llc to medium most definitely. I think the point of offset is to not use llc at all...


Yeah I am reading about Vdroop and I am a little confused, is the voltage that is reported say in Hwinfo64 inaccurate, do I need to go and buy a DMM to get the actual voltage from the motherboard?

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/24019-load-line-calibration-why-overclockers-should-care/

The only level of 'CPU Load Line Calibration' that works is 'Extreme' all the lower levels let the voltage drop from 1.375 to 1.344 under load.

Just to re-iterate, Offset doesn't work for me ATM, and I have no idea why. I have tried everything, even loading a default profile on the secondary BIOS and only applying 'XMP' and setting the multipliers to 45x6 and the Vcore to "Offset". I have tried everything, even combinations of VCCSA Offset and Manual with Vcore Offset and Manual and C-States and EIST on both auto and manual. The voltage doesn't drop at idle. At all. At least now I can prevent Vcore from dipping down to 3.44 under load but my new issue is, is Hwinfo64, and CPU-Z etc. displaying the actual voltage or do I need to use a multi-meter and am actually sitting at 1.5 with LLC at 'Extreme' with 1.375V?

If anyone can answer this I will be extremely grateful. Been trying to sort this crap out for nearly two days straight now. All kinds of new games out, I got a copy of 'Watch Dogs' for free w/ purchase of EVGA 780 Ti SC w/ ACX Cooler and I haven't even installed it yet. I am not thrilled that my voltage dips down nearly .5V under load and need to get this sorted out, I imagine it will be BSOD city at 4.5GHz with the voltage dipping down .5V from 1.375V. Not going to set the voltage to 1.425 just to compensate.

But yeah, is it normal for Offset to not work with any kind of OC (i7 4930), cause the only time it worked was on default clocks?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first of all vdroop is besides being designed, to protect the cpu is just normal for electricity.
> 
> vdroop was made to protect your cpu, the reason being if your vrms just tried to maintain vcore, there would be spikes upon coming to load and leaving ( will get into this in a min )
> 
> so when you use a microwave or a vacuum and you have a light on you see it dim right? the reason being is the voltage drops due to the inrush of amps into the other appliance.
> 
> that is vdroop now if your vrms tried to compensate for this at cpu load they would over shoot ( too much voltage ) same thing upon cpu dropping load. there would be another spike.
> 
> so volts going from higher at idle to lower at load is 100% normal and wanted.
> 
> as to offset you can use llc with it. without issue.
> 
> lastly volts do not kill a cpu. the amps do hence why in the latest bios update everyone was complaining about the ocs needing more volts but the amp draw went down ( which is why raja didnt care, and i personally think he is right. )
> 
> this seems to explain it well


If you read the response above you will know that I can't get Offset to work. As far as it being volts or amps that hurt the CPU, can anyone confirm or do you have more data? Because it seems to be pretty well established by everyone else that any voltage over 1.4V will lead to the accelerated demise of an i7 4930. If it is indeed amps that are the problem then I am definitely interested in updating to 0602. But I have only read negative things about the new BIOS, could you point me to a discussion comparing the 0507 to 0602 etc?

Thanks for the help everyone.


----------



## Ajay57

Vdroop for these CPU's is perfectly 100% Natural and should not be taken too seriously, Hence the use of the LLC!!

Auto setting is said to be the same as Extreme so as long as you match the Voltage showing in the Bios side to the one you are using, it should not be far away.

For Example a Vcore showing 1.200v in the Bios side, should be the same as the value you have set, hence 1.200v!

They should match each other give or take a small amount because not everything is going to be equal, the only thing that will change this is the amount of LLC you have set yourself!

A HIGH LLC setting normally will match both sides in the Bios!

The next setting will give you a higher Value of Vcore on one side then you have set on the other, i.e. 1.250v - 1.200v

The Extreme LLC will give you a even higher setting on one side again, this is to offset the Vdroop, but the trade off is more heat, voltage and current being used by the CPU to maintain a given Overclock.

The best i have found to be over the years of Overclocking i have done, is to balance your OC with the amount of Vcore needed to be fully stable, and the values to be also balanced in the Bios as well!

But its not easy to be done, because everyone's CPU and set up are NOT THE SAME! And people tend to Overclock there set up's in many different ways as well also.

The to me is not a easy subject to try to explain to anyone, so i hope i have not done too bad of a job, but if i have made a mistake please feel free to correct me about it!!!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## vulcan78

Thanks for the reply Ajay57, yeah different strokes for different folks. For me I can't seem to get 4.6GHz out of my i7 4930 without 1.45V so I am staying here as it seems solid at 4.5Ghz with 1.375V.

Does "Offset Voltage" work for anyone with an OC? Might I have a fault voltage controller? It seems to work without any kind of OC but that is it.


----------



## Kimir

I've always used offset voltage, works like a charm, just not with strap. You could read some of the last pages on Ivy Bridge E Owners Club as we have talked about OCing 4930k (mine in particular).


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Thanks for the reply Ajay57, yeah different strokes for different folks. For me I can't seem to get 4.6GHz out of my i7 4930 without 1.45V so I am staying here as it seems solid at 4.5Ghz with 1.375V.
> 
> Does "Offset Voltage" work for anyone with an OC? Might I have a fault voltage controller? It seems to work without any kind of OC but that is it.












To be open and honest i never really liked or used OFFSET, just set the Vcore by hand in the Bios and just stabilized the OC!!

But as you pointed out different strokes for different people, me i am old school always used Manual Vcore settings here, and hey it works good enough for me!

So as long as you keep the Vcore below Intels Rec's then i can not see any problems, also the lower it is the longer maybe the life of the CPU!

I say the question you should ask yourself and others is this "it has to be fully stable to work properly", and that is it in a nut shell!
















Regards,

AJ.


----------



## xarot

You would want to use the offset if you run on high Vcore to save the life of your CPU. For example if you run 1.45 V constantly using manual vs. using the offset voltage when it would drop to under 1 V when browsing etc.

I run offset to get 1.36 V under load at 4500 MHz.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Using offset and ultra-high llc is couter-intuitive from what i understand. I'd start by lowering llc to medium most definitely. I think the point of offset is to not use llc at all...
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I am reading about Vdroop and I am a little confused, is the voltage that is reported say in Hwinfo64 inaccurate, do I need to go and buy a DMM to get the actual voltage from the motherboard?
> 
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/24019-load-line-calibration-why-overclockers-should-care/
> 
> The only level of 'CPU Load Line Calibration' that works is 'Extreme' all the lower levels let the voltage drop from 1.375 to 1.344 under load.
> 
> Just to re-iterate, Offset doesn't work for me ATM, and I have no idea why. I have tried everything, even loading a default profile on the secondary BIOS and only applying 'XMP' and setting the multipliers to 45x6 and the Vcore to "Offset". I have tried everything, even combinations of VCCSA Offset and Manual with Vcore Offset and Manual and C-States and EIST on both auto and manual. The voltage doesn't drop at idle. At all. At least now I can prevent Vcore from dipping down to 3.44 under load but my new issue is, is Hwinfo64, and CPU-Z etc. displaying the actual voltage or do I need to use a multi-meter and am actually sitting at 1.5 with LLC at 'Extreme' with 1.375V?
> 
> If anyone can answer this I will be extremely grateful. Been trying to sort this crap out for nearly two days straight now. All kinds of new games out, I got a copy of 'Watch Dogs' for free w/ purchase of EVGA 780 Ti SC w/ ACX Cooler and I haven't even installed it yet. I am not thrilled that my voltage dips down nearly .5V under load and need to get this sorted out, I imagine it will be BSOD city at 4.5GHz with the voltage dipping down .5V from 1.375V. Not going to set the voltage to 1.425 just to compensate.
> 
> But yeah, is it normal for Offset to not work with any kind of OC (i7 4930), cause the only time it worked was on default clocks?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first of all vdroop is besides being designed, to protect the cpu is just normal for electricity.
> 
> vdroop was made to protect your cpu, the reason being if your vrms just tried to maintain vcore, there would be spikes upon coming to load and leaving ( will get into this in a min )
> 
> so when you use a microwave or a vacuum and you have a light on you see it dim right? the reason being is the voltage drops due to the inrush of amps into the other appliance.
> 
> that is vdroop now if your vrms tried to compensate for this at cpu load they would over shoot ( too much voltage ) same thing upon cpu dropping load. there would be another spike.
> 
> so volts going from higher at idle to lower at load is 100% normal and wanted.
> 
> as to offset you can use llc with it. without issue.
> 
> lastly volts do not kill a cpu. the amps do hence why in the latest bios update everyone was complaining about the ocs needing more volts but the amp draw went down ( which is why raja didnt care, and i personally think he is right. )
> 
> this seems to explain it well
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you read the response above you will know that I can't get Offset to work. As far as it being volts or amps that hurt the CPU, can anyone confirm or do you have more data? Because it seems to be pretty well established by everyone else that any voltage over 1.4V will lead to the accelerated demise of an i7 4930. If it is indeed amps that are the problem then I am definitely interested in updating to 0602. But I have only read negative things about the new BIOS, could you point me to a discussion comparing the 0507 to 0602 etc?
> 
> Thanks for the help everyone.
Click to expand...

in all honesty no. you dont need a DMM they are nice, but a software read is ok. just for your knowledge, they are usually wrong. just the nature of things, but they are close enough


----------



## Someone09

Just reserved myself a cheap...ish RIV BE. 100€ cheaper for a new board but without any accessories.
But I am still hesitating to pull the trigger. I am currently on a 4770k @ 4.4GHz. And at 5760x1080 I am getting really close to being bottlenecked by the CPU judging by the CPU usage during gameplay.

I know there have been enoug topics about Haswell vs Ivy E etc., so I am not going to start this here.

But I was wondering how guys - that just recently switched to this board/platform - feel about it so far, now that the Haswell-E specs have been leaked and considering...well...that 2011 is pretty much dead now (no offense ^^).
Are you still glad you made that choice?


----------



## Kimir

Haswell-E is 2011








Not really impressed, the 5930k isn't 8 cores


----------



## gdubc

I am. Gives me a high end board with a lot of tweaking options that will last me until I can afford to once again upgrade to the next best thing. Works for my toy buying plans anyhow. Rampage b.e./780ti sli now, 4k tv next, then we will see where the new 2011 is at. Ram will have a chance to mature a little bit, prices will come down, etc. If it doesn't, then maybe the latest gpu instead. The cycle never ends....


----------



## kpoeticg

Haswell-E is 2011-3. I think he meant x79 is dead









Since when is the 5930k not gonna be 8 cores? The 5820k is gonna be 6. That would be *&*)&$(*&)*#&) if it's true


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Haswell-E is 2011


Ah, you are right. I meant x79 of course.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Not really impressed, the 5930k isn't 8 cores


Exactly why I kinda took it as a sign that the board I got reserved turned up shortly after I read the Haswell-E specs.








Also, the base clocks are very disappointing imo.


----------



## RJavier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Thanks for the reply Ajay57, yeah different strokes for different folks. For me I can't seem to get 4.6GHz out of my i7 4930 without 1.45V so I am staying here as it seems solid at 4.5Ghz with 1.375V.
> 
> Does "Offset Voltage" work for anyone with an OC? Might I have a fault voltage controller? It seems to work without any kind of OC but that is it.


Hi - I posted the following last night on the thread Ivy Bridge E Owners Club
below are my current settings - I am using Corsair Dominator Platimun 2133MHZ 32GB kit

I just spent almost two months overclocking and extensively researching how to OC my i7-4930K which sits on the Rampage IV Black Edition. I have it currently running at 4.6GHZ with the following settings - I have the MANUAL VCORE and the OFFSET VCORE fully stable on PRIME95 with a 12 hour run and on LINX with a 10 times run.

Hope the following settings will give you a guide line.

Rampage IV Black Edition - BIOS 0507 x64 01/09/2014
i7-4930K - Batch #3331B540 Made in Costa Rica

VCORE MANUAL - THESE SETTINGS WORK at 4.6GHZ - May 25th 2014
- Prime95 ran for 12hrs - Passed no errors. Highest temp Core5 83C, Core6 83C
- Linx Ran 10 times no errors, GFlops in the upper 179.00. Highest temp Core5 88C, Core6 89C

Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 100
ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled (always keep enabled)
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced All Cores
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230; pg 3-9 &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. ENABLED

EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled

Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled (always keep disabled, enabled will kill cpu)
BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. MANUAL MODE
CPU VCORE Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230; 1.335V (jumps to 1.344V CPU-Z, AIDA64)

VTT CPU Voltage &#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;....&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. 1.15 (keep between 1.15 & 1.20 never higher than 1.2)
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.05099 (keep between 1.10 & 1.05099)

CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..................&#8230;..... Manual
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;................&#8230;. 1.1 (keep below 1.2V but also this needs to be kept at .05V within the VTT CPU voltage. Ex. VTTCPU - 1.2, VCCSA - 1.15 OR VTTCPU - 1.15, VCCSA - 1.1)

DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230;. 1.65
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;. 1.65

CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230; pg 3-18..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. 1.8 (may help achieve lower vcore, play with this and the vcore)
PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... 1.1
Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... Auto
Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230; Auto
 
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..............&#8230;..... Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto

CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................ Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..............&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... Disabled
BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Enabled

DRAM TIMING CONTROL
Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Primary Timings&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 9-11-11-31 Command Rate 2

DIGI+ Power Control
CPU VCORE - Pg. 3-13
CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto (CPU LLC )
CPU Current Capability &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 180%

CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Manual
CPU Fixed Frequency (KHz) &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 350

VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230; pg 3-17..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto

CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;......................................&#8230;&#8230; Disabled set to Extreme
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED

Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VSA - Pg. 3-14
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Regular
VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VTT - Pg. 3-15
CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3X
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM Voltage - Pg. 3-15
DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 130%
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Optimized

DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 130%
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Optimized

PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3X

 
Monitor
Fan Speed Control
CPU Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
Chassis 1 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
Chassis 2 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
Chassis 3 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo

THE FOLLOWING ARE MY OFFSET SETTING for 4.6GHz

Rampage IV Black Edition - BIOS 0507 x64 01/09/2014
i7-4930K - Batch #3331B540 Made in Costa Rica

VCORE OFFSET - THESE SETTINGS WORK at 4.6GHZ - May 27th 2014
- Prime95 ran for 12hrs - Passed no errors. Highest temp Core5 89C, Core6 83C
- Linx Ran 10 times no errors, GFlops in the upper 178.00. Highest temp Core5 89C, Core6 88C

Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 100
ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled (always keep enabled)
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced All Cores
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230; pg 3-9 &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. ENABLED

EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled

Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled (always keep disabled, enabled will kill cpu)
BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. OFFSET MODE
Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230; +
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230; 0.095

VTT CPU Voltage &#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;....&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. 1.20 (keep between 1.15 & 1.20 never higher than 1.2)
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.10387 (keep between 1.10 & 1.05099)

CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..................&#8230;..... Manual
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;................&#8230;. 1.150 (keep below 1.2V but also this needs to be kept at .05V within the VTT CPU voltage. Ex. VTTCPU - 1.2, VCCSA - 1.15 OR VTTCPU - 1.15, VCCSA - 1.1)

DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230;. 1.65
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;. 1.65

CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230; pg 3-18..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. 1.9 (may help achieve lower vcore, play with this and the vcore)
PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... 1.1
Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... Auto
Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230; Auto
 
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..............&#8230;..... Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto

CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................ Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..............&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... Disabled
BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Enabled

DRAM TIMING CONTROL
Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Primary Timings&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 9-11-11-31 Command Rate 2

DIGI+ Power Control
CPU VCORE - Pg. 3-13
CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto (CPU LLC )
CPU Current Capability &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 180%

CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Manual
CPU Fixed Frequency (KHz) &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 350

VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230; pg 3-17..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto

CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;......................................&#8230;&#8230; Disabled set to Extreme
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED

Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VSA - Pg. 3-14
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Regular
VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VTT - Pg. 3-15
CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3X
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM Voltage - Pg. 3-15
DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 130%
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Optimized

DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 130%
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Optimized

PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3X

 
Monitor
Fan Speed Control
CPU Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
Chassis 1 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
Chassis 2 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
Chassis 3 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Haswell-E is 2011-3. I think he meant x79 is dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since when is the 5930k not gonna be 8 cores? The 5820k is gonna be 6. That would be *&*)&$(*&)*#&) if it's true


Right now it's still rumors, I hope so... because if so, right... *&*)&$(*&)*#&)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Ah, you are right. I meant x79 of course.
> Exactly why I kinda took it as a sign that the board I got reserved turned up shortly after I read the Haswell-E specs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the base clocks are very disappointing imo.


Base clock doesn't mean much, like 3930k and 4930k at 3.2 and 3.4 respectively, and low boost is certainly to keep the tdp to 140%. What we need to know is how well they overclock and for that we have to wait them to be released. Also it's the first platform with DDR4. I prefer not to be an early adopter of that. DDR4 2133 is the DDR3 1333 (so to speak, in the range of frequency, not actual speed).
I'll certainly wait the refresh on that one, mainly because I already spend my money on my new rig.


----------



## skupples

No one knows but WCCF tech says 8core is the 1,000$ chip( and he is ALWAYS right). I really don't believe it right now as Intel should he trying to get the x58 and x79 users off of their current platforms and they won't do that very well with another 600$ 6 core.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah well Intel should've had us off x79 when IB-E was released. When Haswell-E was announced, 5930k was 8 cores for $600. Now they pull this? Intel's turning into damn snakes!!! Too complacent with no competition...

Edit: Guess i should be thankful. If they do this, i'll have absolutely no temptation to upgrade from my RIVE BE setup


----------



## doctakedooty

I have to agree with everyone on the fact the 8 core is not going to supposedly be with the 5930K. I am not spending a grand for a cpu I will wait for the rehash to come when hopefully the 6930k will be 8 core. I guess in the end it would even back out all the people who don't upgrade from x79 plateform they would make there money back from the people who spent the grand for the 5960x. I would never spend that cash on it for something I will use for a couple months then upgrade again.


----------



## Ajay57

After spending more than $4000 on my present set up, i can not see any reason to up grade at this point in time!!

This does everything i want from a PC and more besides and i really enjoy the X79 Platform, now i have everything Overclocked and fully set up.









I can not see at this stage spending that kind of money if it will give me any thing more!









Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> After spending more than $4000 on my present set up, i can not see any reason to up grade at this point in time!!
> 
> This does everything i want from a PC and more besides *and i really enjoy the X79 Platform*, now i have everything Overclocked and fully set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can not see at this stage spending that kind of money if it will give me any thing more!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


My mom's a fan of antique's too!!! I should introduce you


----------



## Ajay57

LOL @ nearly 60 years old we would possibly have something to chat about!!









AJ.


----------



## kpoeticg

Haha, my moms turning 60 this year


----------



## Gualichu04

So, coretemp says my hottest core is 65-69C using prime95 yet the asus ai suite says 53C which do i believe? I find it hard to belive it is 65C at load when i am using a 360 radiator. for the cpu till i hook up the two r9 290x to the water cooling loop. I only have one dumping heat into the case atm.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> So, coretemp says my hottest core is 65-69C using prime95 yet the asus ai suite says 53C which do i believe? I find it hard to belive it is 65C at load when i am using a 360 radiator.


Ai suite shows socket temp core temps show your cores temps so use the core temp app or hwinfo for your core temps.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> So, coretemp says my hottest core is 65-69C using prime95 yet the asus ai suite says 53C which do i believe? I find it hard to belive it is 65C at load when i am using a 360 radiator.


They are measuring different things

See here: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?36399-Core-Temp-vs-ROG-AI-Suite-temp&p=301339&viewfull=1#post301339
Quote:


> [...] there are 2 different types of readings.
> 
> A) Core temperature: This is calculated directly from the cores and using the distance from Tjmax (the point where the chip is programmed to shutdown in order to protect itself).
> 
> B) CPU Package temperature: This is a reading of Tcase. The temperature of the actual CPU package.
> 
> RealTemp/CoreTemp actually read A while AI Suite reads B. [...]


----------



## Gualichu04

Makes more sense thanks. Is nearly 69c even safe on the 4930k? Seems hot to me. The room is 80 Fahrenheit which does not help.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Makes more sense thanks. Is nearly 69c even safe on the 4930k? Seems hot to me. The room is 80 Fahrenheit which does not help.


There fine tjmax is 95c I never let mine go over 75c as long as your under 1.4 vcore you are fine.


----------



## Gualichu04

Alright thanks I may need to add more radiators to cool this hot cpu and two r9 290x. Currently have a xspc ex 240 and 360 rad push pull. It does idle at 35-38C only in prime 95 does it get so hot.


----------



## Ajay57

Regards and Respect to your MUM!!









As for your Temps its fine like DOC said, if by chance the room Temps gets too hot, open the case door, and put a large HOUSE FAN pointing towards the case for extra cooling if you need it!!

But @ 35c to 40c your well inside the limits and nothing to be worried about so far!!









AJ.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Thanks for the reply Ajay57, yeah different strokes for different folks. For me I can't seem to get 4.6GHz out of my i7 4930 without 1.45V so I am staying here as it seems solid at 4.5Ghz with 1.375V.
> 
> Does "Offset Voltage" work for anyone with an OC? Might I have a fault voltage controller? It seems to work without any kind of OC but that is it.


You do have power options in windows set to "balanced"??
I'm running 4740mhz with offset +'all C states enabled @ 1.4v drooping to 1.392v

Cant remember my exact settings but offset is something like +0.09v and additional turbo volts around 0.105v

Heres a bench of mine running higher with full c states/offset

cpu with power savings enabled 4818 GHz

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8318782


----------



## Ajay57

I would set the POWER SETTING IN WINDOWS to Max!! But that is your choice only, and DISABLE all the CStates, but that is the way i run things here my friend.

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I would set the POWER SETTING IN WINDOWS to Max!! But that is your choice only, and DISABLE all the CStates, but that is the way i run things here my friend.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


I would normally but looking at ways to keep temps down for the gpu as it favours <40c

Winter = max power








Summer = offsets , etc









Need a chiller!!


----------



## Ajay57

Need a Chiller try looking @ these ones hope you can find something where you live!!!









1, http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Water-Chillers-cid-1904.html

Try looking at the bottom of this page!!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> You would want to use the offset if you run on high Vcore to save the life of your CPU. For example if you run 1.45 V constantly using manual vs. using the offset voltage when it would drop to under 1 V when browsing etc.
> 
> I run offset to get 1.36 V under load at 4500 MHz.


Yes that is what I am trying to do, have a low idle voltage either via 'Offset Voltage' in conjunction with C-States or if I can't get that to work setting voltage to say 1.25V or 1.3V with the hope that 'Extreme' LLC pushes up to say 1.375V, so far though LLC doesn't seem to take the voltage beyond whatever I have it set to, at least according to both Hwinfo64 and CPU-Z.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Just reserved myself a cheap...ish RIV BE. 100€ cheaper for a new board but without any accessories.
> But I am still hesitating to pull the trigger. I am currently on a 4770k @ 4.4GHz. And at 5760x1080 I am getting really close to being bottlenecked by the CPU judging by the CPU usage during gameplay.
> 
> I know there have been enoug topics about Haswell vs Ivy E etc., so I am not going to start this here.
> 
> But I was wondering how guys - that just recently switched to this board/platform - feel about it so far, now that the Haswell-E specs have been leaked and considering...well...that 2011 is pretty much dead now (no offense ^^).
> Are you still glad you made that choice?


Youre in a good place right now with RIVBE and Ivy E, Haswell was underwhelming to say the least and many Z78 boards suffer from a "UEFI Time Freeze" problem, it is one of the primary reasons I went with X79, RIVBE and Ivy E to begin with. Now we're hearing that 5930 won't actually be octo-core and that you will need to pay $1k to have eight cores with the 5960? Is this correct? Yeah untested technology with unforeseen problems and now an exponentially higher asking price for octo-core. No thanks. I will stick with the tried and true. Testing new technology is a fools gambit. Oh and nearly all games still don't have hyperthreading support for the two additional cores we have, and until that happens even a hex-core processor is overkill.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Haswell-E is 2011-3. I think he meant x79 is dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since when is the 5930k not gonna be 8 cores? The 5820k is gonna be 6. That would be *&*)&$(*&)*#&) if it's true


Lol, did you get the "profanity" warning for the creative use of the special characters? "Better watch your mouth BOY!"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJavier*
> 
> Hi - I posted the following last night on the thread Ivy Bridge E Owners Club
> below are my current settings - I am using Corsair Dominator Platimun 2133MHZ 32GB kit
> 
> I just spent almost two months overclocking and extensively researching how to OC my i7-4930K which sits on the Rampage IV Black Edition. I have it currently running at 4.6GHZ with the following settings - I have the MANUAL VCORE and the OFFSET VCORE fully stable on PRIME95 with a 12 hour run and on LINX with a 10 times run.
> 
> Hope the following settings will give you a guide line.
> 
> Rampage IV Black Edition - BIOS 0507 x64 01/09/2014
> i7-4930K - Batch #3331B540 Made in Costa Rica
> 
> VCORE MANUAL - THESE SETTINGS WORK at 4.6GHZ - May 25th 2014
> - Prime95 ran for 12hrs - Passed no errors. Highest temp Core5 83C, Core6 83C
> - Linx Ran 10 times no errors, GFlops in the upper 179.00. Highest temp Core5 88C, Core6 89C
> 
> Extreme Tweaker
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
> CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 100
> ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled (always keep enabled)
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced All Cores
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230; pg 3-9 &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
> Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. ENABLED
> 
> EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> 
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled (always keep disabled, enabled will kill cpu)
> BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. MANUAL MODE
> CPU VCORE Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230; 1.335V (jumps to 1.344V CPU-Z, AIDA64)
> 
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;....&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. 1.15 (keep between 1.15 & 1.20 never higher than 1.2)
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.05099 (keep between 1.10 & 1.05099)
> 
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..................&#8230;..... Manual
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;................&#8230;. 1.1 (keep below 1.2V but also this needs to be kept at .05V within the VTT CPU voltage. Ex. VTTCPU - 1.2, VCCSA - 1.15 OR VTTCPU - 1.15, VCCSA - 1.1)
> 
> DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230;. 1.65
> DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;. 1.65
> 
> CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230; pg 3-18..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. 1.8 (may help achieve lower vcore, play with this and the vcore)
> PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... 1.1
> Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... Auto
> Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> 
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..............&#8230;..... Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
> 
> CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................ Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..............&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
> PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... Disabled
> BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Enabled
> 
> DRAM TIMING CONTROL
> Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Primary Timings&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 9-11-11-31 Command Rate 2
> 
> DIGI+ Power Control
> CPU VCORE - Pg. 3-13
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto (CPU LLC )
> CPU Current Capability &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 180%
> 
> CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Manual
> CPU Fixed Frequency (KHz) &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 350
> 
> VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
> Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230; pg 3-17..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> 
> CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;......................................&#8230;&#8230; Disabled set to Extreme
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED
> 
> Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VSA - Pg. 3-14
> VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Regular
> VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
> VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
> CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VTT - Pg. 3-15
> CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3X
> CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM Voltage - Pg. 3-15
> DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 130%
> DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Optimized
> 
> DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 130%
> DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Optimized
> 
> PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3X
> 
> 
> Monitor
> Fan Speed Control
> CPU Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
> Chassis 1 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
> Chassis 2 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
> Chassis 3 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
> 
> THE FOLLOWING ARE MY OFFSET SETTING for 4.6GHz
> 
> Rampage IV Black Edition - BIOS 0507 x64 01/09/2014
> i7-4930K - Batch #3331B540 Made in Costa Rica
> 
> VCORE OFFSET - THESE SETTINGS WORK at 4.6GHZ - May 27th 2014
> - Prime95 ran for 12hrs - Passed no errors. Highest temp Core5 89C, Core6 83C
> - Linx Ran 10 times no errors, GFlops in the upper 178.00. Highest temp Core5 89C, Core6 88C
> 
> Extreme Tweaker
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
> CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 100
> ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled (always keep enabled)
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced All Cores
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 46
> Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230; pg 3-9 &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
> Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. ENABLED
> 
> EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> 
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled (always keep disabled, enabled will kill cpu)
> BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. OFFSET MODE
> Offset Mode Sign &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230; +
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230; 0.095
> 
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;....&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. 1.20 (keep between 1.15 & 1.20 never higher than 1.2)
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.10387 (keep between 1.10 & 1.05099)
> 
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..................&#8230;..... Manual
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;................&#8230;. 1.150 (keep below 1.2V but also this needs to be kept at .05V within the VTT CPU voltage. Ex. VTTCPU - 1.2, VCCSA - 1.15 OR VTTCPU - 1.15, VCCSA - 1.1)
> 
> DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230;. 1.65
> DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;. 1.65
> 
> CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230; pg 3-18..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. 1.9 (may help achieve lower vcore, play with this and the vcore)
> PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... 1.1
> Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... Auto
> Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.................&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> 
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..............&#8230;..... Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Auto
> 
> CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................ Auto
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..............&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
> PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................... Disabled
> BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;... Enabled
> 
> DRAM TIMING CONTROL
> Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230; pg 3-17&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> Primary Timings&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 9-11-11-31 Command Rate 2
> 
> DIGI+ Power Control
> CPU VCORE - Pg. 3-13
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto (CPU LLC )
> CPU Current Capability &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 180%
> 
> CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Manual
> CPU Fixed Frequency (KHz) &#8230; pg 3-17.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 350
> 
> VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
> Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230; pg 3-17..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> 
> CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;......................................&#8230;&#8230; Disabled set to Extreme
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;................&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED
> 
> Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VSA - Pg. 3-14
> VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Regular
> VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
> VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
> CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VTT - Pg. 3-15
> CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3X
> CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM Voltage - Pg. 3-15
> DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 130%
> DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Optimized
> 
> DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 130%
> DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Optimized
> 
> PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3X
> 
> 
> Monitor
> Fan Speed Control
> CPU Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
> Chassis 1 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
> Chassis 2 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo
> Chassis 3 Fan Profile &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Turbo


RJavier, THANK-YOU for taking the time to type all of this in for me, AND WE ARE IN THE SAME BATCH, FROM COSTA RICA! I will be + rep you if I can. Thanks again, I will try these settings. Right now it is only stable at 45x6 with 1.375V. Bad thing is, although we are in the same batch, I still might not be able to replicate your results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Right now it's still rumors, I hope so... because if so, right... *&*)&$(*&)*#&)
> Base clock doesn't mean much, like 3930k and 4930k at 3.2 and 3.4 respectively, and low boost is certainly to keep the tdp to 140%. What we need to know is how well they overclock and for that we have to wait them to be released. Also it's the first platform with DDR4. I prefer not to be an early adopter of that. DDR4 2133 is the DDR3 1333 (so to speak, in the range of frequency, not actual speed).
> I'll certainly wait the refresh on that one, mainly because I already spend my money on my new rig.


Yep, base-clock doesn't mean diddly, only OC overhead, as is shown in this Haswell Ivy E comparison, 4770k is only marginally faster than Ivy E on default clocks but when overclocking is added to the mix Ivy E far outpaces Haswell.

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/63119-intel-i7-4930k-i7-4820k-ivy-bridge-e-review-17.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah well Intel should've had us off x79 when IB-E was released. When Haswell-E was announced, 5930k was 8 cores for $600. Now they pull this? Intel's turning into damn snakes!!! Too complacent with no competition...
> 
> Edit: Guess i should be thankful. If they do this, i'll have absolutely no temptation to upgrade from my RIVE BE setup


Yep, prepare to be underwhelmed with an enormous price-tag to boot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> LOL @ nearly 60 years old we would possibly have something to chat about!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


Damn and I thought I was getting to old for this at 37 lol. If I live to see 60 I will probably still be into this.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> So, coretemp says my hottest core is 65-69C using prime95 yet the asus ai suite says 53C which do i believe? I find it hard to belive it is 65C at load when i am using a 360 radiator. for the cpu till i hook up the two r9 290x to the water cooling loop. I only have one dumping heat into the case atm.


AI Suite 3 show erroneous voltage information, I have to rely on Hwinfo64, which shows the same as CPU-Z. I am also getting a different temp reading on my OC Panel, anyone else? You wan't to have your radiators pushing out of the case ESPECIALLY if said radiator is in the ceiling directly above your mobo, as heat naturally rises to begin with and what you will have is heat trapped in that area with the radiator trying to push heat down. I think Corsair only recommends configuring their AIO coolers as intake so that reviewers get slightly better temps, to damn with the increased temperatures the customers will see in their cases and across their components. Setting them up as exhaust might only increase temps on ONLY the component the AIO cooler is attached to by 1-3 C but it should reduce temps in the case and across the other components significantly more.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> You do have power options in windows set to "balanced"??
> I'm running 4740mhz with offset +'all C states enabled @ 1.4v drooping to 1.392v
> 
> Cant remember my exact settings but offset is something like +0.09v and additional turbo volts around 0.105v
> 
> Heres a bench of mine running higher with full c states/offset
> 
> cpu with power savings enabled 4818 GHz
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8318782


Yes power options set to balanced ,THIS IS ANOTHER ISSUE I NEED HELP WITH GUYS, MY 3DMARK SCORES ARE WAY LOW FOR 4.5 GHZ:

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/2198451

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8367824

14k Physics 3DMark11?! I should be at 15k at least!!

HELP!


----------



## vulcan78

Update:

RJavier, the settings you prescribed result in immediate BSOD for me, bumping up the voltage to 1.375V (1.392V actual) also results in BSOD. According to a sampling of 45 binned chips only 48% will do 4.6 GHz at 1.4V and I suppose mine isn't among them as it requires 1.45V at 4.6GHz.

Solid at 4.5GHz with 1.375V, also with DRAM Voltage at 1.5V.


----------



## karanklk

does anyone from India own this board ??


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Update:
> 
> RJavier, the settings you prescribed result in immediate BSOD for me, bumping up the voltage to 1.375V (1.392V actual) also results in BSOD. According to a sampling of 45 binned chips only 48% will do 4.6 GHz at 1.4V and I suppose mine isn't among them as it requires 1.45V at 4.6GHz.
> 
> Solid at 4.5GHz with 1.375V, also with DRAM Voltage at 1.5V.


What bsod code are you getting??


----------



## Mega Man

am i the only one remembering the ddr3 launch... i am skipping the ddr4 launch ....


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Yes that is what I am trying to do, have a low idle voltage either via 'Offset Voltage' in conjunction with C-States or if I can't get that to work setting voltage to say 1.25V or 1.3V with the hope that 'Extreme' LLC pushes up to say 1.375V, so far though LLC doesn't seem to take the voltage beyond whatever I have it set to, at least according to both Hwinfo64 and CPU-Z.


I don't think Extreme LLC should be used for 24/7. I use only high LLC with offset.


----------



## MNiceGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> am i the only one remembering the ddr3 launch... i am skipping the ddr4 launch ....


No sir you are not. I will be doing the same









The truth is I'm delighted to hear the specs of X99 and Haswell-E. There were a couple times where I really started second guessing myself for dropping all this money into X79 but I feel better now. From what I've read so far there's really zero benefit for me to transition.


----------



## skupples

I'll wait for definitive proof from Intel. 8 core starting at 1k is just silly stupid. People will jump on the top wbd vishera before going that route.

I'll be waiting for the HW-E refresh either way. I want nothing to do with brand new DDR technology. I still have DDR3 flashbacks.


----------



## Ajay57

Well Skupples,

You may laugh, but that's about what i paid for my Binned 4960X Buddy lol!!









Yeah it cost, but i really like it compared to my 4930K i had before that was a DOG OF A OC CHIP LOL!!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## mattias1172

After a few hours or looking through the manual and on forums, I have finally decided to seek actual help. Starting last night and finishing up this morning, I replaced the motherboard, CPU, and CPU cooler in my computer with the Asus rampage iv black edition, 4930k, and an h105. I also installed some nzxt kraken g10s on my gpus to help with temps. Upon installation of all the hardware, I started up the PC to get started. Here's where it gets complicated. I've gotten numerous error codes on the LCD raging from 15, b6, b2, 34,

image.jpg 2121k .jpg file
b5, 64-69, and probably a few others I'm missing. I've tried booting from one stick of ram, my ram is in the recommended slot, I checked and g.skill ram is compatible, I've tried removing the CMOS battery, anything I could find. Every once and a while I'll get it to startup no problem to the windows os installation screen and try to download it to my ssd, but it won't let me partition or instal it on that drive so I would shutdown to go back into the bios and it seems it keeps disabling the drive in the sata configuration section. While trying to fix it, the computer while often shutdown and get stuck on said error codes. My CPU and ram are both recognized by the bios. At the top of the screen it lists my 4930k at it's stock 3.4ghz speed as well as my single 4gb ram stick. My bios version I believe is the newest 0506 (whatever the number actually is, it's close to that). If anyone has any suggestions or knows a fix it would be much appreciated.


----------



## RJavier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Update:
> 
> RJavier, the settings you prescribed result in immediate BSOD for me, bumping up the voltage to 1.375V (1.392V actual) also results in BSOD. According to a sampling of 45 binned chips only 48% will do 4.6 GHz at 1.4V and I suppose mine isn't among them as it requires 1.45V at 4.6GHz.
> 
> Solid at 4.5GHz with 1.375V, also with DRAM Voltage at 1.5V.


WOW!!!! that is totally insane...we have the exact same Batch# - it is amazing how the components vary.
I'm hitting 4.6GHz with no problems at VCORE 1.344V. My CPU actually hits the 4.7GHz or 4.8Ghz but I am limited with the thermos going above 90C instantly when i start up PRIME95 or LINX since I am using only the H100i and fans to cool everything else. I do plan to research on doing a custom water loop at the end of 2014.

I am actually aiming for 4.7GHZ this weekend once I change out my Thermal Paste and put in High Performance fans.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJavier*
> 
> WOW!!!! that is totally insane...we have the exact same Batch# - it is amazing how the components vary.
> I'm hitting 4.6GHz with no problems at VCORE 1.344V. My CPU actually hits the 4.7GHz or 4.8Ghz but I am limited with the thermos going above 90C instantly when i start up PRIME95 or LINX since I am using only the H100i and fans to cool everything else. I do plan to research on doing a custom water loop at the end of 2014.
> 
> I am actually aiming for 4.7GHZ this weekend once I change out my Thermal Paste and put in High Performance fans.


You kind of win a the lottery then.
I'm doing 4.5 @ 1.31, 4.6 @ 1.41 and 4.75 @ 1.48. Definitely hit a wall at 4.6Ghz.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> What bsod code are you getting??


0x00000124, BlueScreenView shows hal.dll and ntoskrnl.exe, which are CPU related.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> am i the only one remembering the ddr3 launch... i am skipping the ddr4 launch ....


I don't even remember that, what happened? All I heard about with Haswell was the "UEFI time-freeze issue" to which there is apparently NO SOLUTION.

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?36676-Frozen-Time-Clock-in-UEFI-The-Fix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> I don't think Extreme LLC should be used for 24/7. I use only high LLC with offset.


Why not? It doesn't actually push the voltage past what I have it set to, it only ensures that Vdroop doesn't drop it down 1.32V under load which it does with LLC off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattias1172*
> 
> After a few hours or looking through the manual and on forums, I have finally decided to seek actual help. Starting last night and finishing up this morning, I replaced the motherboard, CPU, and CPU cooler in my computer with the Asus rampage iv black edition, 4930k, and an h105. I also installed some nzxt kraken g10s on my gpus to help with temps. Upon installation of all the hardware, I started up the PC to get started. Here's where it gets complicated. I've gotten numerous error codes on the LCD raging from 15, b6, b2, 34,
> 
> image.jpg 2121k .jpg file
> b5, 64-69, and probably a few others I'm missing. I've tried booting from one stick of ram, my ram is in the recommended slot, I checked and g.skill ram is compatible, I've tried removing the CMOS battery, anything I could find. Every once and a while I'll get it to startup no problem to the windows os installation screen and try to download it to my ssd, but it won't let me partition or instal it on that drive so I would shutdown to go back into the bios and it seems it keeps disabling the drive in the sata configuration section. While trying to fix it, the computer while often shutdown and get stuck on said error codes. My CPU and ram are both recognized by the bios. At the top of the screen it lists my 4930k at it's stock 3.4ghz speed as well as my single 4gb ram stick. My bios version I believe is the newest 0506 (whatever the number actually is, it's close to that). If anyone has any suggestions or knows a fix it would be much appreciated.


I just put together my computer and ran into an issue with the boot-drive refusing to install windows because it was MBR format and not GPT:






http://www.mpspartners.com/2013/10/how-to-convert-windows-7-on-mbrbios-to-gptuefi/

But what youre describing sounds worse, maybe the drive is bad, I have no idea. I'm also on 0507.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJavier*
> 
> WOW!!!! that is totally insane...we have the exact same Batch# - it is amazing how the components vary.
> I'm hitting 4.6GHz with no problems at VCORE 1.344V. My CPU actually hits the 4.7GHz or 4.8Ghz but I am limited with the thermos going above 90C instantly when i start up PRIME95 or LINX since I am using only the H100i and fans to cool everything else. I do plan to research on doing a custom water loop at the end of 2014.
> 
> I am actually aiming for 4.7GHZ this weekend once I change out my Thermal Paste and put in High Performance fans.


Yeah same batch and same BIOS. You don't need a custom water loop, unless your ambient is 90-100 F you shouldn't be seeing 90 C on an H100i with a good TIM install. As you can see from the following post-build video I was on 4.75Ghz at 1.45V (1.472V actual/reported) and my temps didn't exceed 75 C after 15 minutes of Prime95 Torture.






Ambient was around 75-80 F. This is with an air cooler, but not just any air cooler, probably one of the best performing as can be seen in this comparison:

Phanteks PH-TC14PE

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2

Oh and about 20 dB quieter than an H100i on "Max". Unless youre wedded to the H100i or cannot afford to switch to the Phanteks PH-TC14PE I would strongly recommend this air cooler over a custom cooling loop and an AIO cooler.

1. Quieter

2. No radiator sitting in front of case or ceiling above mobo and other components trapping heat, heaven forbid as intake as Corsair recommends.

3. Inexpensive, the Phanteks PH-TC14PE was on sale for $69. on new-egg.

4. Very handsome, wide variety of colors to choose from.

5. No potential liquid nightmare, yes they have happened, even if it is only 1:1000, they still have happened and no contrary to popular misconception Corsair WILL NOT replace your fried components. Go click on the "one egg" reviews on Newegg:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181032&cm_re=corsair_h100i-_-35-181-032-_-Product

6. Contrary to popular misconception AIO is not better than air, the Noctua NH-D15 and Phanteks PH-TC14PE OUTPERFORM the AIO coolers by 4-5 C.

7. No water pump to die within 4 months to a years time, again take a look at the "one egg" reviews on Newegg, plenty of pump failures.

8. Did I say quieter?

Here is how my black-and-white Phanteks gels with my Air 540:






http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011&cm_re=phanteks_ph_tc14pe-_-35-709-011-_-Product


----------



## RJavier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Yeah same batch and same BIOS. You don't need a custom water loop, unless your ambient is 90-100 F you shouldn't be seeing 90 C on an H100i with a good TIM install. As you can see from the following post-build video I was on 4.75Ghz at 1.45V (1.472V actual/reported) and my temps didn't exceed 75 C after 15 minutes of Prime95 Torture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ambient was around 75-80 F. This is with an air cooler, but not just any air cooler, probably one of the best performing as can be seen in this comparison:
> 
> Phanteks PH-TC14PE
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2
> 
> Oh and about 20 dB quieter than an H100i on "Max". Unless youre wedded to the H100i or cannot afford to switch to the Phanteks PH-TC14PE I would strongly recommend this air cooler over a custom cooling loop and an AIO cooler.
> 
> 1. Quieter
> 
> 2. No radiator sitting in front of case or ceiling above mobo and other components trapping heat, heaven forbid as intake as Corsair recommends.
> 
> 3. Inexpensive, the Phanteks PH-TC14PE was on sale for $69. on new-egg.
> 
> 4. Very handsome, wide variety of colors to choose from.
> 
> 5. No potential liquid nightmare, yes they have happened, even if it is only 1:1000, they still have happened and no contrary to popular misconception Corsair WILL NOT replace your fried components. Go click on the "one egg" reviews on Newegg:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181032&cm_re=corsair_h100i-_-35-181-032-_-Product
> 
> 6. Contrary to popular misconception AIO is not better than air, the Noctua NH-D15 and Phanteks PH-TC14PE OUTPERFORM the AIO coolers by 4-5 C.
> 
> 7. No water pump to die within 4 months to a years time, again take a look at the "one egg" reviews on Newegg, plenty of pump failures.
> 
> 8. Did I say quieter?
> 
> Here is how my black-and-white Phanteks gels with my Air 540:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011&cm_re=phanteks_ph_tc14pe-_-35-709-011-_-Product


I currently have TUNIQ-4 on the CPU. This weekend I will be replacing the TUNIQ with Artic MX-4.
I have four SP120 PWM High performance fans in a PUSH/PULL config on the H100i radiator - PRIME95 and LINX when I try to go to 4.7GHz does hit 90C+ degrees.
I live in New York City so temps reach 100F in the summer only.

A custom water loop will be my very last option this is why I am cosidering that at the end of 2014.

I am willing to try any type of self contained water cooling similar to the H100i or air cooler such as the one that you mentioned to see if I can cool the VRM and the CPU.

I will take a look at those videos and the Cooler that you are recommending when I get home tonight.

And yes, I've seen videos and research forums regarding the possible leaks on the H100i...and that does freak me out.


----------



## nickolp1974

@Vulcan, your better off using a higher offset/more vcore than having LLC on extreme, high max for 24/7

124 bsod code = more vcore or possibly VTT, but its funny its the only bsod code i ever get with this board which is strange.


----------



## Mega Man

basically there were multiple ram errors, when ddr3 first came out ddr3 was performing worse then ddr2 ( top end ) ect, just bugs to fix


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJavier*
> 
> I currently have TUNIQ-4 on the CPU. This weekend I will be replacing the TUNIQ with Artic MX-4.
> I have four SP120 PWM High performance fans in a PUSH/PULL config on the H100i radiator - PRIME95 and LINX when I try to go to 4.7GHz does hit 90C+ degrees.
> I live in New York City so temps reach 100F in the summer only.
> 
> A custom water loop will be my very last option this is why I am cosidering that at the end of 2014.
> 
> I am willing to try any type of self contained water cooling similar to the H100i or air cooler such as the one that you mentioned to see if I can cool the VRM and the CPU.
> 
> I will take a look at those videos and the Cooler that you are recommending when I get home tonight.
> 
> And yes, I've seen videos and research forums regarding the possible leaks on the H100i...and that does freak me out.


Sounds like you have enough fans on the H100i, if youre going to stick with it I recommend some thermal compound better than Arctic MX-4. Check out either IC Diamond or Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra, the latter being the better of the two but removing it when it needs to be removed will require using the included scouring pad. It's basically liquid gallium AND IS INCOMPATIBLE WITH ALUMINUM. But if I am not mistaken H100i has a copper heat-sink so you should be good to go. Reviews I've seen Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra keeps load temps about 5-7 C cooler than Arctic MX-4 and IC Diamond maybe 2-4 C cooler.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> basically there were multiple ram errors, when ddr3 first came out ddr3 was performing worse then ddr2 ( top end ) ect, just bugs to fix


I see, yeah it wasn't that I forgot that, I am just mostly new to PC, I got into this about three years ago and I have only now put together my first desktop. But yeah new technology can be problematic, I say let the enthusiastic charge ahead blindly beta testing it for the rest of us lol.


----------



## Tony0018

Requesting Permission to Join http://valid.canardpc.com/mtnk39


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> @Vulcan, your better off using a higher offset/more vcore than having LLC on extreme, high max for 24/7
> 
> 124 bsod code = more vcore or possibly VTT, but its funny its the only bsod code i ever get with this board which is strange.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> @Vulcan, your better off using a higher offset/more vcore than having LLC on extreme, high max for 24/7
> 
> 124 bsod code = more vcore or possibly VTT, but its funny its the only bsod code i ever get with this board which is strange.


Could you show me more information? I haven't come across any information show how CPU LLC Is unsafe, it simply prevents Vdroop. And I can't run more VCORE, I'm already sitting at 1.375V simply to maintain 4.5Ghz.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tony0018*
> 
> Requesting Permission to Join http://valid.canardpc.com/mtnk39


Looking at how close your D14 is to primary GPU, boy am I glad I cancelled my order of the D15 and picked up the Phanteks PH-TC14PE. The D15 is 10mm wider, I caught this the day before my pre-order was to go through and cancelled it via email that night. Worked out in the end, Phanteks PH-TC14PE is about on par with the D15, has better aesthetics (color scheme wise, the Noctuas DO look good though) and doesn't block the first PCI-E slot on RIVBE. Oh and PWM works!!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

LLC doesn't just prevent vdroop. On extreme it can add volts to your cpu. I'm still a n00b myself, but I understand LLC as like widening the borders for VCore on both ends. So Extreme can cause the voltage to spike under load more than you want it to. Medium is usually recommended for LLC.

Disclaimer: If I'm confused about this don't hold it against me. I'm sure some1 will correct me


----------



## Goggle Eye

Yeah it cost, but i really like it compared to my 4930K i had before that was a DOG OF A OC CHIP LOL!! rolleyes.gif

Oh No replacing a R3BE I7 990x @ 4.5GHz to R4BE I7 4930K clock for clock I take it the 4930K is faster than the 990x not by very much?

Hazwell no thanks from what I have read and the help from OCN think the R4BE is a better choice my knowledge is pretty limited.

Thanks everyone for posting the information about over clocking.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> LLC doesn't just prevent vdroop. On extreme it can add volts to your cpu. I'm still a n00b myself, but I understand LLC as like widening the borders for VCore on both ends. So Extreme can cause the voltage to spike under load more than you want it to. Medium is usually recommended for LLC.
> 
> Disclaimer: If I'm confused about this don't hold it against me. I'm sure some1 will correct me


That was what I was trying to figure out earlier, and the general response so far is, whatever an appropriate program (not AI Suite 3 for voltage) is reporting, actual voltage is about that. So I have LLC set to 'Extreme' because its the only setting that actually works to prevent my voltage from dropping from 1.375V down to 1.344 and even 1.32V and displayed voltage in Hwinfo64 doesn't exceed 1.375V. But I have read articles showing that voltage measured on the board can higher than what is being displayed by the sensors and through to a reporting program such as Hwinfo64. If so, I'm probably at 1.4V or a little past but either way I am not dialing it back below 4.5GHz. I mentioned this disparity in voltage reported and the few responses I received was that it isn't enough to worry about so in the end i am not sure.

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/24019-load-line-calibration-why-overclockers-should-care/

Actually according to the article above by Linus Tech Tips with LLC set to 'Extreme' they saw .1V higher voltage through a DMM (digital multimeter) compared to what was being reported through sensors and reporting software.

Good thing we can change LLC on the fly with AI Suite 3, I will dial it back from 'Extreme" to just high to see if the Vdroop persists. If it does then what I might just end up doing is setting voltage to 1.4V to compensate for Vdroop and turning LLC off. I really ought to just get a multi-meter to check for myself as the Vdroop on the 49XX is higher than most because of the additional cores and the voltage discrepancy might not be as bad as what Linus saw with their test equipment not to mention the motherboard used.

Thanks for the reminder, I only briefly looked at the graphs in the article above and followed that one up with this explanation by HardwareCanucks praising Vdroop but not really emphasizing the risk involved:

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/57575-post1.html

What is confusing is, if LLC is overcompensating for Vdroop, shouldn't the actual voltage be reported? Because it doesn't go higher than the 1.375 I have it set to. Anyhow, off to play around and pull my hair out some more with BIOS, I thought I was finally done dialing this thing in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Yeah it cost, but i really like it compared to my 4930K i had before that was a DOG OF A OC CHIP LOL!! rolleyes.gif
> 
> Oh No replacing a R3BE I7 990x @ 4.5GHz to R4BE I7 4930K clock for clock I take it the 4930K is faster than the 990x not by very much?
> 
> Hazwell no thanks from what I have read and the help from OCN think the R4BE is a better choice my knowledge is pretty limited.
> 
> Thanks everyone for posting the information about over clocking.


No its faster, I'm not seeing a 50% improvement in 3DMark 11 Physics but I just ran Vantage earlier and CPU is exactly 50% faster than what my i7 3920 was pulling at 4.5GHz:

Alienware M18x R2, i7 3920 @ 4.5GHz, Nvidia GTX 680M SLI _250 core/+500 memory @ 1.025V, 16GB Corsair Vengeance 1866Mhz, Win 7: http://www.3dmark.com/3dmv/5003451

RIVBE, i7 4930, EVGA 780 Ti SC w/ ACX Cooler, 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz, Win 7: http://www.3dmark.com/3dmv/5040463


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> That was what I was trying to figure out earlier, and the general response so far is, whatever an appropriate program (not AI Suite 3 for voltage) is reporting, actual voltage is about that. So I have LLC set to 'Extreme' because its the only setting that actually works to prevent my voltage from dropping from 1.375V down to 1.344 and even 1.32V and displayed voltage in Hwinfo64 doesn't exceed 1.375V. But I have read articles showing that voltage measured on the board can higher than what is being displayed by the sensors and through to a reporting program such as Hwinfo64. If so, I'm probably at 1.4V or a little past but either way I am not dialing it back below 4.5GHz. I mentioned this disparity in voltage reported and the few responses I received was that it isn't enough to worry about so in the end i am not sure.
> 
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/24019-load-line-calibration-why-overclockers-should-care/
> 
> Actually according to the article above by Linus Tech Tips with LLC set to 'Extreme' they saw .1V higher voltage through a DMM (digital multimeter) compared to what was being reported through sensors and reporting software.
> 
> Good thing we can change LLC on the fly with AI Suite 3, I will dial it back from 'Extreme" to just high to see if the Vdroop persists. If it does then what I might just end up doing is setting voltage to 1.4V to compensate for Vdroop and turning LLC off. I really ought to just get a multi-meter to check for myself as the Vdroop on the 49XX is higher than most because of the additional cores and the voltage discrepancy might not be as bad as what Linus saw with their test equipment not to mention the motherboard used.
> 
> Thanks for the reminder, I only briefly looked at the graphs in the article above and followed that one up with this explanation by HardwareCanucks praising Vdroop but not really emphasizing the risk involved:
> 
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/57575-post1.html
> 
> What is confusing is, if LLC is overcompensating for Vdroop, shouldn't the actual voltage be reported? Because it doesn't go higher than the 1.375 I have it set to. Anyhow, off to play around and pull my hair out some more with BIOS, I thought I was finally done dialing this thing in.


I have only used CPU-Z, TurboV Core and HWInfo64 to check voltages, but when I use offset I see let me call it the 'base' voltage in TurboV. For example offset +0.045 with my 4960X at 4.5 GHz results in TurboV reporting 1.34 V for Vcore. So I assume this is the load voltage I would get with offset but then it's up to LLC what the real voltage under load is. And when using high LLC I result in 1.36 V which is the highest Vcore I have seen with these settings:

- In lighter load (quick run of P95) I can see 1.344 V
- In heavy load (LinX 0.6.5) Vcore goes up to 1.36 V

So my assumption is that even high LLC can cause your Vcore to actually increase under heavy load, not decrease.


----------



## kpoeticg

The way I understand it is your VCore can spike higher than what you have it set to at Extreme/Ultra High LLC. I'm really not the one to be giving advice on this tho.

A Multimeter is ALWAYS the most accurate way to read your voltages. That's why they have pads on the motherboard specifically for a MM. Software can always be wrong with temps.

Is the VDroop screwing with your clocks? Why is it bothering you so much? I don't understand the finer points of it yet, but from what some of the smarter people in this thread have been saying the past cpl days, it seems to not be a bad thing....


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> I have only used CPU-Z, TurboV Core and HWInfo64 to check voltages, but when I use offset I see let me call it the 'base' voltage in TurboV. For example offset +0.045 with my 4960X at 4.5 GHz results in TurboV reporting 1.34 V for Vcore. So I assume this is the load voltage I would get with offset but then it's up to LLC what the real voltage under load is. And when using high LLC I result in 1.36 V which is the highest Vcore I have seen with these settings:
> 
> - In lighter load (quick run of P95) I can see 1.344 V
> - In heavy load (LinX 0.6.5) Vcore goes up to 1.36 V
> 
> So my assumption is that even high LLC can cause your Vcore to actually increase under heavy load, not decrease.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The way I understand it is your VCore can spike higher than what you have it set to at Extreme/Ultra High LLC. I'm really not the one to be giving advice on this tho.
> 
> A Multimeter is ALWAYS the most accurate way to read your voltages. That's why they have pads on the motherboard specifically for a MM. Software can always be wrong with temps.
> 
> Is the VDroop screwing with your clocks? Why is it bothering you so much? I don't understand the finer points of it yet, but from what some of the smarter people in this thread have been saying the past cpl days, it seems to not be a bad thing....


Yes, Vdroop is bringing my voltage down from 1.376V to 1.344V, occasionally dipping down into 1.32V under load at 4.5GHz, this invariably results in a BSOD in stress testing. I need to be somewhere between 1.344 and 1.376V with this frequency and only LLC of 'Extreme' seems to prevent Vdroop at all, the lower levels only seem to reduce the occurrence of dipping two levels down (i.e. from 1.376 to 1.344 to 1.32V).

After reading this article, which I highly recommend every take a good look at, I am genuinely thinking of getting a DMM and confirming what the voltage is on this board with this processor as compared to what is reported.

The article's test equipment was a RIVE in conjunction with a 3930 so there might not be much of a difference. Be sure to take a good look at the diagrams, last one down shows a .1V difference between what the DMM is reading and what is being reported.

Oh and XJavier, if youre reading this, your prescribed settings I tried earlier automatically put LLC on 'Extreme', you can ascertain this by opening AI Suite 3 and going to the Digi+ section. So you might not only be at 1.344V with 4.6GHz, you might be at 1.43V......

Right now I am experimenting with 1.4V and LLC of "High" (small variation between whats reported and actual) and Vdroop is taking it down to 1.36V. Its been stable so far at 4.5GHz, going to put this message through before crash at 17 minute more Prime95.

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/24019-load-line-calibration-why-overclockers-should-care/


----------



## Jpmboy

Guys - vdroop was engineered into the power section of your cpu for a reason. The transient voltage spikes that occur during load transitions can cause degradation and LLC act to defeat vdroop (except when it is set to extreme on this mobo, which does add volts). A DMM or any software does not detect/report these high (and low) voltage excursions.
It especially important to use a medium or high (at most, ultra high - 75%) LLC if you are using Offset overclocking. For fixed vcore OC, stay below extreme unless you are extreme cooling (LN2, DICE). As mentioned, you are better off adding some vcore and using a lower LLC. Light-load vore will be slightly higher - no big deal. Focus on temperatures and the wattage the cpu pulls under heavy load. Voltage is not the killer, current is!

when using p95, set a Custom Blend, 5 min/FFT and use at least 75% of Ram (eg, 12288 out of 16GB). 60min test with no failed workers or a crash, and your system is quite stable.

The beginnings of vdroop: (offset here = vdroop)
with vdroop

no vdroop


LLC mitigates vdroop and can cause serious loadline overshoot.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> @Vulcan, your better off using a higher offset/more vcore than having LLC on extreme, high max for 24/7
> 
> 124 bsod code = more vcore or possibly VTT, but its funny its the only bsod code i ever get with this board which is strange.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> @Vulcan, your better off using a higher offset/more vcore than having LLC on extreme, high max for 24/7
> 
> 124 bsod code = more vcore or possibly VTT, but its funny its the only bsod code i ever get with this board which is strange.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Could you show me more information? I haven't come across any information show how CPU LLC Is unsafe, it simply prevents Vdroop. And I can't run more VCORE, I'm already sitting at 1.375V simply to maintain 4.5Ghz.
Click to expand...


generally med does not cause overvoltage,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> I have only used CPU-Z, TurboV Core and HWInfo64 to check voltages, but when I use offset I see let me call it the 'base' voltage in TurboV. For example offset +0.045 with my 4960X at 4.5 GHz results in TurboV reporting 1.34 V for Vcore. So I assume this is the load voltage I would get with offset but then it's up to LLC what the real voltage under load is. And when using high LLC I result in 1.36 V which is the highest Vcore I have seen with these settings:
> 
> - In lighter load (quick run of P95) I can see 1.344 V
> - In heavy load (LinX 0.6.5) Vcore goes up to 1.36 V
> 
> So my assumption is that even high LLC can cause your Vcore to actually increase under heavy load, not decrease.
> 
> 
> 
> corrrect
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The way I understand it is your VCore can spike higher than what you have it set to at Extreme/Ultra High LLC. I'm really not the one to be giving advice on this tho.
> 
> A Multimeter is ALWAYS the most accurate way to read your voltages. That's why they have pads on the motherboard specifically for a MM. Software can always be wrong with temps.
> 
> Is the VDroop screwing with your clocks? Why is it bothering you so much? I don't understand the finer points of it yet, but from what some of the smarter people in this thread have been saying the past cpl days, it seems to not be a bad thing....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, Vdroop is bringing my voltage down from 1.376V to 1.344V, occasionally dipping down into 1.32V under load at 4.5GHz, this invariably results in a BSOD in stress testing. I need to be somewhere between 1.344 and 1.376V with this frequency and only LLC of 'Extreme' seems to prevent Vdroop at all, the lower levels only seem to reduce the occurrence of dipping two levels down (i.e. from 1.376 to 1.344 to 1.32V).
> 
> After reading this article, which I highly recommend every take a good look at, I am genuinely thinking of getting a DMM and confirming what the voltage is on this board with this processor as compared to what is reported.
> 
> The article's test equipment was a RIVE in conjunction with a 3930 so there might not be much of a difference. Be sure to take a good look at the diagrams, last one down shows a .1V difference between what the DMM is reading and what is being reported.
> 
> Oh and XJavier, if youre reading this, your prescribed settings I tried earlier automatically put LLC on 'Extreme', you can ascertain this by opening AI Suite 3 and going to the Digi+ section. So you might not only be at 1.344V with 4.6GHz, you might be at 1.43V......
> 
> Right now I am experimenting with 1.4V and LLC of "High" (small variation between whats reported and actual) and Vdroop is taking it down to 1.36V. Its been stable so far at 4.5GHz, going to put this message through before crash at 17 minute more Prime95.
> 
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/24019-load-line-calibration-why-overclockers-should-care/
Click to expand...

even the cheapest dmm is more accurate then software
*usually
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Guys - vdroop was engineered into the power section of your cpu for a reason. The transient voltage spikes that occur during load transitions can cause degradation and LLC act to defeat vdroop (except when it is set to extreme on this mobo, which does add volts). A DMM or any software does not detect/report these high (and low) voltage excursions.
> It especially important to use a medium or high (at most, ultra high - 75%) LLC if you are using Offset overclocking. For fixed vcore OC, stay below extreme unless you are extreme cooling (LN2, DICE). As mentioned, you are better off adding some vcore and using a lower LLC. Light-load vore will be slightly higher - no big deal. Focus on temperatures and the wattage the cpu pulls under heavy load. Voltage is not the killer, current is!
> 
> when using p95, set a Custom Blend, 5 min/FFT and use at least 75% of Ram (eg, 12288 out of 16GB). 60min test with no failed workers or a crash, and your system is quite stable.
> 
> The beginnings of vdroop: (offset here = vdroop)
> with vdroop
> 
> no vdroop
> 
> 
> LLC mitigates vdroop and can cause serious loadline overshoot.


yep


----------



## Ajay57

From what i have seen and read about these IB-E CPU's Vdroop is part of the DNA, and is perfectly healthy, what you have to try to do is Balance the amount!

For a given Overclock, so for most cases i would say LLC @ HIGH is the sweet spot where it gives you a balance on both sides!

If you look in your Bios after you have F10 and set your Vcore by hand Manually on one side it shows the Value you have set, next to it the value is what the Mobo is showing.

If you have it set correctly those two values should be close to each other with say 0.01v or 0.02v, but if you use a higher LLC you could see a difference.

I.E. One showing 1.30v and the other showing 1.25v this is the overall effect of using a higher LLC! Then when a given load is applied to the CPU the 1.30v drops towards the 1.20v value!

So as i have said and pointed out, its much better if you can possibly keep these Voltage values as close to each other as possible.

Even if it means lowering or compromising the Overclock you are trying to go for or achieve at the time, as its the Voltage spikes and current that does the damage over time.

X79 Overclocking Guide

Firstly lets explain the straps used on X79. Basically there are two usable straps on X79 in the majority of cases. These are the 100 Strap and 125 Strap. If your CPU is on the 100 Strap then BLK directly correlates to bus speed. If your on the 125 strap then BLK will be 125 and bus speed will be 100 thus a divider of 1.25 is applied. So for any given BLK on the 125 strap you must divide the value by 1.25 to give your bus speed. e.g 131 BLK = 105 Bus speed. In all cases CPU frequency is given by multiplier x BLK.

Each strap comes with its own set of memory frequency's also. This must be figured into the equation with any overclocking. The 100 Bus has the usable 1333,1600, 1866,2133 and 2400 memory option while 125 has 1333, 1666,2000,2333mhz usable. So you have 2400mhz memory you can reach that speed using 100 BLK on the 100 strap or using 128.625 BLK on the 125 strap.

This gives flexibility to the end user in terms of CPU, Bus and Memory overclocking.

Multiplier set at 40, BLK 100 gives 4ghz. On the 125 strap 40 multi would give 5ghz.

The two interesting options on this first page are Clock Gen full reset and Clock Gen filter. Clock Gen full reset should be set to enable at all times so as when BLK is changed the memory is trained to the changed frequency. This helps alot with stability. If your benching cold where your CPU has cold bug I would disable this option so the system does not retrain DRAM on blk changes and thus boots with cold bugged IMC.

Clock gen filter helps with high RAM speed clocking and should be set to 10 uf or 20uf for speeds around 2000 - 2400mhz+. This helps with stability as it filters the signal into the RAM when at high frequency. It should be at enable for lower speeds and disable if you mange to get a CPU which boots on the 166 strap.

Xtreme Tweaking gives a touch more DRAM performance so I leave it enabled. I have never noticed a negative impact on stability either with it on.

Further Down the Xtreme Tweaker we see the options for setting voltages:

Always leave Xtreme OV as disabled as even on the cold it need not be switched on and voltage selection is plentiful. Its a good safety measure too for not instantly killing your CPU.

A setting of BLK skew -2 and PCI Ex CLK skew of -20 helps with stability on this format. For cold use -3 and -30 especially with higher BLK. Experiment with these settings -1 and -10 can also work well.

VTT Voltage is the voltage supplied to the PCI EX lanes controller and interconnecting section within the CPU. This setting helps with both DRAM and BLK overclocking. For 24.7 I would not go over 1,2 on this setting ideally 1.15.

VTT2 does not help with overclocking at all but should be kept within 0.4v of VTT so as to ensure Intels spec is maintained.

VCCSA is the IMC volts and helps with DRAM overclocking and stability. VCCSA and VTT should be kept within 0.05v of each other as per Intels recommendations and aid stability. VCCSA should be kept below 1.2v

PLL is interesting on this foramt as what I have fund is on the 100 strap the CPU like around 1.9v and on the 125 strap they like around 1.65v. Experiment with this as getting it right means Vcore down for a certain frequency.

Now lets look at the power settings:

With the heat these CPU's generate on the VRM's and due to heat from the CPU soaking into the socket I never use more than High LLC and for 24/7 no more than Medium. Intel design the CPU's with Vdroop in mind so I allow droop to keep temps down under load of both the chip and the VRM extending lifespan of both components at the same time. Also bear in mind VRM heat as well as CPU heat causing throttling on this format.

140 CPU current is enough for everyday. I use 180 for benching. CPU power frequency auto daily, 800 bench. Power Duty control is T.Probe daily and Xtreme for bench with the mos control volts been kept at 7 or lower so as not to create unnecessary heat.

VCCSA LLC is exactly as it says for the memory controller again, Do not hammer this as I know high VCCSA will degrade my chip overtime. I want it to droop slightly under load. 120% current gets me 2520 DRAM tight so I don't use more.

I then raise the current and optimise power supply to the DIMMS for improved DRAM overclocking and stability. For bench I push this even further as on X79 memory is the main source of instability due to the complexity of quad channel RAM.

In DRAM settings for most the top four settings are all you need. Rampage tweak AUTO sets second and thirds as XMP. Mode 1 sets compatible second and third timings and can help with stability problems and reaching higher DRAM clocks at the expense of performance. Mode 2 sets Tight second and third timings during training and helps with both performance and overclocking at the expense of stability. More voltage is often needed with this one enabled but bandwidth goes through the roof.

Latency Boundary has further effect on the tertiary timings AUTO is as XMP or in line with Mode 1 and Mode 2. Setting nearer tightens the tertiary for performance while further slackens these timings for stability. A setting of further or furthest helps alot when clocking 32mb in 4 dimms (ie 4 x 8gb) or 8 x 4gb dimms.

When clocking X79 I do so on both straps but I and many others have noticed a BLK of around 129-131 on the 125 strap seems to yeild best results in terms of Vcore needed. This is because the higher BLK is creating less modulation in PLL and thus the CPU has less errors to correct and a "cleaner signal" High BLK along with low PLL is the way to go with most CPU.

With X79 being so complex I cant cover everything here but ask questions and I will cover what the end user feels is important to them.

I have just copied this from another thread i hope it answers most of the basic questions, that Members have been asking!!

But it all depends on what your trying to use your set up for, and how you wish to use after all!!
















Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Tony0018

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Looking at how close your D14 is to primary GPU, boy am I glad I cancelled my order of the D15 and picked up the Phanteks PH-TC14PE. The D15 is 10mm wider, I caught this the day before my pre-order was to go through and cancelled it via email that night. Worked out in the end, Phanteks PH-TC14PE is about on par with the D15, has better aesthetics (color scheme wise, the Noctuas DO look good though) and doesn't block the first PCI-E slot on RIVBE. Oh and PWM works!!!!


Glad I gave some insight unaware lol


----------



## Jpmboy

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> From what i have seen and read about these IB-E CPU's Vdroop is part of the DNA, and is perfectly healthy, what you have to try to do is Balance the amount!
> 
> For a given Overclock, so for most cases i would say LLC @ HIGH is the sweet spot where it gives you a balance on both sides!
> 
> If you look in your Bios after you have F10 and set your Vcore by hand Manually on one side it shows the Value you have set, next to it the value is what the Mobo is showing.
> 
> If you have it set correctly those two values should be close to each other with say 0.01v or 0.02v, but if you use a higher LLC you could see a difference.
> 
> I.E. One showing 1.30v and the other showing 1.25v this is the overall effect of using a higher LLC! Then when a given load is applied to the CPU the 1.30v drops towards the 1.20v value!
> 
> So as i have said and pointed out, its much better if you can possibly keep these Voltage values as close to each other as possible.
> 
> Even if it means lowering or compromising the Overclock you are trying to go for or achieve at the time, as its the Voltage spikes and current that does the damage over time.
> 
> X79 Overclocking Guide
> 
> Firstly lets explain the straps used on X79. Basically there are two usable straps on X79 in the majority of cases. These are the 100 Strap and 125 Strap. If your CPU is on the 100 Strap then BLK directly correlates to bus speed. If your on the 125 strap then BLK will be 125 and bus speed will be 100 thus a divider of 1.25 is applied. So for any given BLK on the 125 strap you must divide the value by 1.25 to give your bus speed. e.g 131 BLK = 105 Bus speed. In all cases CPU frequency is given by multiplier x BLK.
> 
> Each strap comes with its own set of memory frequency's also. This must be figured into the equation with any overclocking. The 100 Bus has the usable 1333,1600, 1866,2133 and 2400 memory option while 125 has 1333, 1666,2000,2333mhz usable. So you have 2400mhz memory you can reach that speed using 100 BLK on the 100 strap or using 128.625 BLK on the 125 strap.
> 
> This gives flexibility to the end user in terms of CPU, Bus and Memory overclocking.
> 
> Multiplier set at 40, BLK 100 gives 4ghz. On the 125 strap 40 multi would give 5ghz.
> 
> The two interesting options on this first page are Clock Gen full reset and Clock Gen filter. Clock Gen full reset should be set to enable at all times so as when BLK is changed the memory is trained to the changed frequency. This helps alot with stability. If your benching cold where your CPU has cold bug I would disable this option so the system does not retrain DRAM on blk changes and thus boots with cold bugged IMC.
> 
> Clock gen filter helps with high RAM speed clocking and should be set to 10 uf or 20uf for speeds around 2000 - 2400mhz+. This helps with stability as it filters the signal into the RAM when at high frequency. It should be at enable for lower speeds and disable if you mange to get a CPU which boots on the 166 strap.
> 
> Xtreme Tweaking gives a touch more DRAM performance so I leave it enabled. I have never noticed a negative impact on stability either with it on.
> 
> Further Down the Xtreme Tweaker we see the options for setting voltages:
> 
> Always leave Xtreme OV as disabled as even on the cold it need not be switched on and voltage selection is plentiful. Its a good safety measure too for not instantly killing your CPU.
> 
> A setting of BLK skew -2 and PCI Ex CLK skew of -20 helps with stability on this format. For cold use -3 and -30 especially with higher BLK. Experiment with these settings -1 and -10 can also work well.
> 
> VTT Voltage is the voltage supplied to the PCI EX lanes controller and interconnecting section within the CPU. This setting helps with both DRAM and BLK overclocking. For 24.7 I would not go over 1,2 on this setting ideally 1.15.
> 
> VTT2 does not help with overclocking at all but should be kept within 0.4v of VTT so as to ensure Intels spec is maintained.
> 
> VCCSA is the IMC volts and helps with DRAM overclocking and stability. VCCSA and VTT should be kept within 0.05v of each other as per Intels recommendations and aid stability. VCCSA should be kept below 1.2v
> 
> PLL is interesting on this foramt as what I have fund is on the 100 strap the CPU like around 1.9v and on the 125 strap they like around 1.65v. Experiment with this as getting it right means Vcore down for a certain frequency.
> 
> Now lets look at the power settings:
> 
> With the heat these CPU's generate on the VRM's and due to heat from the CPU soaking into the socket I never use more than High LLC and for 24/7 no more than Medium. Intel design the CPU's with Vdroop in mind so I allow droop to keep temps down under load of both the chip and the VRM extending lifespan of both components at the same time. Also bear in mind VRM heat as well as CPU heat causing throttling on this format.
> 
> 140 CPU current is enough for everyday. I use 180 for benching. CPU power frequency auto daily, 800 bench. Power Duty control is T.Probe daily and Xtreme for bench with the mos control volts been kept at 7 or lower so as not to create unnecessary heat.
> 
> VCCSA LLC is exactly as it says for the memory controller again, Do not hammer this as I know high VCCSA will degrade my chip overtime. I want it to droop slightly under load. 120% current gets me 2520 DRAM tight so I don't use more.
> 
> I then raise the current and optimise power supply to the DIMMS for improved DRAM overclocking and stability. For bench I push this even further as on X79 memory is the main source of instability due to the complexity of quad channel RAM.
> 
> In DRAM settings for most the top four settings are all you need. Rampage tweak AUTO sets second and thirds as XMP. Mode 1 sets compatible second and third timings and can help with stability problems and reaching higher DRAM clocks at the expense of performance. Mode 2 sets Tight second and third timings during training and helps with both performance and overclocking at the expense of stability. More voltage is often needed with this one enabled but bandwidth goes through the roof.
> 
> Latency Boundary has further effect on the tertiary timings AUTO is as XMP or in line with Mode 1 and Mode 2. Setting nearer tightens the tertiary for performance while further slackens these timings for stability. A setting of further or furthest helps alot when clocking 32mb in 4 dimms (ie 4 x 8gb) or 8 x 4gb dimms.
> 
> When clocking X79 I do so on both straps but I and many others have noticed a BLK of around 129-131 on the 125 strap seems to yeild best results in terms of Vcore needed. This is because the higher BLK is creating less modulation in PLL and thus the CPU has less errors to correct and a "cleaner signal" High BLK along with low PLL is the way to go with most CPU.
> 
> With X79 being so complex I cant cover everything here but ask questions and I will cover what the end user feels is important to them.






I have just copied this from another thread i hope it answers most of the basic questions, that Members have been asking!!

But it all depends on what your trying to use your set up for, and how you wish to use after all!!
















Regards,

AJ.

8 pack I believe.


----------



## vulcan78

UPDATE:

I went out and purchased a middle line, decent quality (it has RMS, more accurate) DMM from the local Radio Shack and here are my findings:

*LLC: High
*
VCORE: 1.41V (to counteract Vdroop with lower LLC)

Displayed Voltage Idle: 1.424V

DMM: 1.416-1.421V (fluctuates between the two values)

Displayed Voltage Load: 1.392V

DMM: 1.394V

Displayed Voltage Load: 1.376V

DMM: 1.390V

*LLC: Extreme
*
VCORE: 1.376V

Displayed Voltage Idle: 1.376V

DMM: 1.384V

Displayed Voltage Load: 1.376V

DMM: 1.386V

Conclusion: It is safer to run the lower VCORE in conjunction with 'Extreme' LLC with RIVBE and a 4930. I encourage everyone to get their hands on a decent DMM and do their own testing. I compared the two settings above as my chip needs a minimum of 1.36 to 1.37V to remain stable at 4.5GHz and setting Manual Voltage to 1.40 even still allows VCORE to dip down to 1.344V, so with LLC on High the only option is increasing VCORE to 1.41V. It is obvious that contrary to the Linus Tech article, RIVBE and a 4930 "Extreme" doesn't result in a large discrepancy between displayed and actual voltage as can be see by the test results with LLC on 'Extreme'. But again, I encourage everyone perform their own tests, this is simply the case with MY board and MY CPU.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> UPDATE:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I went out and purchased a middle line, decent quality (it has RMS, more accurate) DMM from the local Radio Shack and here are my findings:
> 
> *LLC: High
> *
> VCORE: 1.41V (to counteract Vdroop with lower LLC)
> 
> Displayed Voltage Idle: 1.424V
> 
> DMM: 1.416-1.421V (fluctuates between the two values)
> 
> Displayed Voltage Load: 1.392V
> 
> DMM: 1.394V
> 
> Displayed Voltage Load: 1.376V
> 
> DMM: 1.390V
> 
> *LLC: Extreme
> *
> VCORE: 1.376V
> 
> Displayed Voltage Idle: 1.376V
> 
> DMM: 1.384V
> 
> Displayed Voltage Load: 1.376V
> 
> DMM: 1.386V
> 
> 
> 
> Conclusion: It is safer to run the lower VCORE in conjunction with 'Extreme' LLC with RIVBE and a 4930. I encourage everyone to get their hands on a decent DMM and do their own testing. I compared the two settings above as my chip needs a minimum of 1.36 to 1.37V to remain stable at 4.5GHz and setting Manual Voltage to 1.40 even still allows VCORE to dip down to 1.344V, so with LLC on High the only option is increasing VCORE to 1.41V. It is obvious that contrary to the Linus Tech article, RIVBE and a 4930 "Extreme" doesn't result in a large discrepancy between displayed and actual voltage as can be see by the test results with LLC on 'Extreme'. But again, I encourage everyone perform their own tests, this is simply the case with MY board and MY CPU.


PLease examine the voltage transient wave forms I posted earlier. Your DMM or any software is incapable of registering the transient voltage spikes that occur during load transitions. What you are measuring with that _Radioshack_ multimeter has nothing to do with the effect of load transitions. On top of that, the read points on your mobo are connected to the capacitors with conductive traces which have resistance... so it reads lower than the solder points on the back of your motherboard. Better than software, granted, but irrelevant to the design impact of vdroop.

Hey, It is your equipment - do with it as you will.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> PLease examine the voltage transient wave forms I posted earlier. Your DMM or any software is incapable of registering the transient voltage spikes that occur during load transitions. What you are measuring with that _Radioshack_ multimeter has nothing to do with the effect of load transitions. On top of that, the read points on your mobo are connected to the capacitors with conductive traces which have resistance... so it reads lower than the solder points on the back of your motherboard. Better than software, granted, but irrelevant to the design impact of vdroop.
> 
> Hey, It is your equipment - do with it as you will.


I'm looking at the surge chart in your last post, I'm curious as to what the time-frame of these spikes are, .1 second? I think I'd rather have an occasional .1 second spike up into 1.45V than have to set my voltage at 1.41V (1.424 actual) just to mitigate Vdroop with LLC set to High at 4.5GHz.

As far as occasional .1 second jaunts up into the 1.45V range, if anything comes of it within 3 years I will simply replace my 4930, requiring nearly 1.4V to hold 4.5GHz it is obviously not an exceptional sample and taking a chance with a replacement might actually land me within the 48% of 4930's that can do 4.6GHz at 1.4V.

As far as the proper way to take measurement with a DMM, better go tell those idiots at HardwareCanucks that they don't know what they are doing, that they should take proper measurements on the back of the mobo!!!!

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/64592-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-motherboard-review-16.html

The arm-chair computer expert insists!

ASUS SPECIFICALLY PUT THE DMM POINTS ON RIVBE TO MAKE TAKING A MEASUREMENT WITH A DMM EASIER, I DON'T SEE ANY DISCLAIMER IN THE LITERATURE, NOR FROM ANYONE AT ASUS STATING THAT FOR AN ACCURATE MEASUREMENT ONE HAS TO STILL PARTIALLY DISASSEMBLE THEIR COMPUTER AND PLAY FUMBLE AROUND WITH MULTIPLE CONTACT POINTS ON THE BACK OF THEIR MOTHERBOARD.

You know why they make $300 multi-meters? Because morons will buy them.

I spent eight years with the U.S. Army as an Aircraft Armament Missile System Repairman (68S), we used $400 Fluke DMM's, you know why? BECAUSE THERE IS MONEY TO BE MADE BY CHARGING THE CITIZENRY AN EXORBITANT AMOUNT OF MONEY FOR ANYTHING THE MILITARY CONSUMES. ITS CALLED THE MILITARY INDUSTRIAL COMPLEX FOR A REASON.

THERE IS NO, I REPEAT NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CHEAP $45 RADIO SHACK DMM AND $400 FLUKE ONE EXCEPT THERE IS LESS MONEY TO BE MADE BY MORONS WHO THINK THERE IS A DIFFERENCE AND THE UNWITTING AMERICAN TAX PAYER FOOTING THE BILL FOR THE M.I.C.






Here is a review of inexpensive DMM's, including a "crappy" Radio Shack one:

http://www.robotroom.com/Multimeter-Reviews-5.html

Hey, its your money- be a moron with it


----------



## Kimir

I have fluke stuff and it doesn't make me a moron, chill dude.


----------



## Goggle Eye

No its faster, I'm not seeing a 50% improvement in 3DMark 11 Physics but I just ran Vantage earlier and CPU is exactly 50% faster than what my i7 3920 was pulling at 4.5GHz:

Thank You Sir and Thank You for serving in the US Armed Forces.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I'm looking at the surge chart in your last post, I'm curious as to what the time-frame of these spikes are, .1 second? I think I'd rather have an occasional .1 second spike up into 1.45V than have to set my voltage at 1.41V (1.424 actual) just to mitigate Vdroop with LLC set to High at 4.5GHz.
> As far as occasional .1 second jaunts up into the 1.45V range, if anything comes of it within 3 years I will simply replace my 4930, requiring nearly 1.4V to hold 4.5GHz it is obviously not an exceptional sample and taking a chance with a replacement might actually land me within the 48% of 4930's that can do 4.6GHz at 1.4V.
> As far as the proper way to take measurement with a DMM, better go tell those idiots at HardwareCanucks that they don't know what they are doing, that they should take proper measurements on the back of the mobo!!!!
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/64592-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-motherboard-review-16.html
> The arm-chair computer expert insists!
> ASUS SPECIFICALLY PUT THE DMM POINTS ON RIVBE TO MAKE TAKING A MEASUREMENT WITH A DMM EASIER, I DON'T SEE ANY DISCLAIMER IN THE LITERATURE, NOR FROM ANYONE AT ASUS STATING THAT FOR AN ACCURATE MEASUREMENT ONE HAS TO STILL PARTIALLY DISASSEMBLE THEIR COMPUTER AND PLAY FUMBLE AROUND WITH MULTIPLE CONTACT POINTS ON THE BACK OF THEIR MOTHERBOARD.
> You know why they make $300 multi-meters? Because morons will buy them.
> I spent eight years with the U.S. Army as an Aircraft Armament Missile System Repairman (68S), we used $400 Fluke DMM's, you know why? BECAUSE THERE IS MONEY TO BE MADE BY CHARGING THE CITIZENRY AN EXORBITANT AMOUNT OF MONEY FOR ANYTHING THE MILITARY CONSUMES. ITS CALLED THE MILITARY INDUSTRIAL COMPLEX FOR A REASON.
> *THERE IS NO, I REPEAT NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CHEAP $45 RADIO SHACK DMM AND $400 FLUKE* ONE EXCEPT THERE IS LESS MONEY TO BE MADE BY MORONS WHO THINK THERE IS A DIFFERENCE AND THE UNWITTING AMERICAN TAX PAYER FOOTING THE BILL FOR THE M.I.C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a review of inexpensive DMM's, including a "crappy" Radio Shack one:
> http://www.robotroom.com/Multimeter-Reviews-5.html
> Hey, its your money- be a moron with it


The point was not the DMM, it's that your hard earned measurements are meaningless regarding the purpose of vdroop and what LLC does. Yup - that's a crap chip. Buy the intel tuning plan.
Name calling? I insulted your DMM? FO You're certainly not an example of the brothers I served with - up front.


----------



## elxpyder

Hi, i have a beautiful Asus Rampage with Intel i7-4930K (Corsair H100i cooling system), 32Gb Kingston Hyper Beast 2400mhz, 500Gb Samsung 840 SSD, 3TB Samsung HDD SATA for store, Nvdidia Geforce GTX 780 TI Overclocked, Cooler Master HAF XB case, Sony PS 3d Display 24 inch, ando two BENQ 24 inch displays, Corsair K70 keyboard, Logitech G700 mouse, Logitech G13, 3dconnexion Space Mouse Pro.



I validate with CPU-Z Validator
http://valid.x86.fr/gdvmw5
http://valid.canardpc.com/gdvmw5

I use my rig for 3d modelling, 3d animation and 3d game making with 3ds, blender, UDK and now learning Unreal Engine 4.

Im thinking of changing the case for a Cooler Master HAF X, because looks like have more space.

I wold like to receive your recomendatios if i can upgrade any part of my computer and the max speed i could overclock my processor for the use of my computer.

Sorry for my english, i know i have to practice more jajaja


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elxpyder*
> 
> Hi, i have a beautiful Asus Rampage with Intel i7-4930K (Corsair H100i cooling system), 32Gb Kingston Hyper Beast 2400mhz, 500Gb Samsung 840 SSD, 3TB Samsung HDD SATA for store, Nvdidia Geforce GTX 780 TI Overclocked, Cooler Master HAF XB case, Sony PS 3d Display 24 inch, ando two BENQ 24 inch displays, Corsair K70 keyboard, Logitech G700 mouse, Logitech G13, 3dconnexion Space Mouse Pro.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I validate with CPU-Z Validator
> http://valid.x86.fr/gdvmw5
> http://valid.canardpc.com/gdvmw5
> 
> I use my rig for 3d modelling, 3d animation and 3d game making with 3ds, blender, UDK and now learning Unreal Engine 4.
> 
> Im thinking of changing the case for a Cooler Master HAF X, because looks like have more space.
> 
> I wold like to receive your recomendatios if i can upgrade any part of my computer and th*e max speed i could overclock my processor for the use of my computer*.
> 
> Sorry for my english, i know i have to practice more jajaja


this you can only know by [carefully] experimenting, but you can surely hit 4.3 to 4.5GHz without much sweat.

very nice rig!









much prettier than my R4BE bench.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elxpyder*
> 
> Hi, i have a beautiful Asus Rampage with Intel i7-4930K (Corsair H100i cooling system), 32Gb Kingston Hyper Beast 2400mhz, 500Gb Samsung 840 SSD, 3TB Samsung HDD SATA for store, Nvdidia Geforce GTX 780 TI Overclocked, Cooler Master HAF XB case, Sony PS 3d Display 24 inch, ando two BENQ 24 inch displays, Corsair K70 keyboard, Logitech G700 mouse, Logitech G13, 3dconnexion Space Mouse Pro.
> 
> 
> 
> I validate with CPU-Z Validator
> http://valid.x86.fr/gdvmw5
> http://valid.canardpc.com/gdvmw5
> 
> I use my rig for 3d modelling, 3d animation and 3d game making with 3ds, blender, UDK and now learning Unreal Engine 4.
> 
> Im thinking of changing the case for a Cooler Master HAF X, because looks like have more space.
> 
> I wold like to receive your recomendatios if i can upgrade any part of my computer and the max speed i could overclock my processor for the use of my computer.
> 
> Sorry for my english, i know i have to practice more jajaja


Very nice! welcome to OCN


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> You know why they make $300 multi-meters? Because morons will buy them.
> 
> I spent eight years with the U.S. Army as an Aircraft Armament Missile System Repairman (68S), we used $400 Fluke DMM's, you know why? BECAUSE THERE IS MONEY TO BE MADE BY CHARGING THE CITIZENRY AN EXORBITANT AMOUNT OF MONEY FOR ANYTHING THE MILITARY CONSUMES. ITS CALLED THE MILITARY INDUSTRIAL COMPLEX FOR A REASON.
> 
> THERE IS NO, I REPEAT NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CHEAP $45 RADIO SHACK DMM AND $400 FLUKE ONE EXCEPT THERE IS LESS MONEY TO BE MADE BY MORONS WHO THINK THERE IS A DIFFERENCE AND THE UNWITTING AMERICAN TAX PAYER FOOTING THE BILL FOR THE M.I.C.


besides the fact he is right about the voltage spike that you need very specialized multi thousand dollar equip to measure, i take extreme amounts of offense to this statement,

first NO ONE ever said to go buy a fluke to test your boards voltage, i always tell people to goto radio shack or a auto parts store.

second, right tool right job. those 300+ $ meters have their place. personally, as i am putting my hands in LIVE 460vac ( can spike upwards of 500vac ) with 200a + output capabilities, i will never put my life in the "hands" of a $30 meter. nor will i ever trust them.

to take measure ments off of a mobo sure.
you sir








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elxpyder*
> 
> Hi, i have a beautiful Asus Rampage with Intel i7-4930K (Corsair H100i cooling system), 32Gb Kingston Hyper Beast 2400mhz, 500Gb Samsung 840 SSD, 3TB Samsung HDD SATA for store, Nvdidia Geforce GTX 780 TI Overclocked, Cooler Master HAF XB case, Sony PS 3d Display 24 inch, ando two BENQ 24 inch displays, Corsair K70 keyboard, Logitech G700 mouse, Logitech G13, 3dconnexion Space Mouse Pro.
> 
> I use my rig for 3d modelling, 3d animation and 3d game making with 3ds, blender, UDK and now learning Unreal Engine 4.
> 
> Im thinking of changing the case for a Cooler Master HAF X, because looks like have more space.
> 
> I wold like to receive your recomendatios if i can upgrade any part of my computer and the max speed i could overclock my processor for the use of my computer.
> 
> Sorry for my english, i know i have to practice more jajaja


WELCOME !


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> The point was not the DMM, it's that your hard earned measurements are meaningless regarding the purpose of vdroop and what LLC does. Yup - that's a crap chip. Buy the intel tuning plan.
> Name calling? I insulted your DMM? FO You're certainly not an example of the brothers I served with - up front.


I apologize for the name calling. I bought the Tuning Plan, can't believe how good it is (its too good to be true, what is the catch?!!!) I will probably stay here, 4.5GHz on 1.375V isn't stellar but some are saying they can only do 4.4GHz at 1.4V, I will probably only trade my chip in if it can no longer do 4.5Ghz at this voltage. Coming from a 3920 @ 4.4 GHz the performance improvement, at least bench wise, IS AMAZING. Seen a 50% improvement in Vantage, from 30k to 46k CPU and a 40% improvement in both 3DMark 11 from 10k to 14k Physics and also 50% in Firestrike, from 11k to 16.5k Physics.

Temps are good, 20 minutes of Prime95 Torture doesn't have the CPU past 75 C.

What branch were you in, what was your MOS? I was in from 97 to 05, spent the bulk of my eight years in Hawaii with the 25th I.D., one year in the sandbox 2004-2005 OEF Afghanistan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elxpyder*
> 
> Hi, i have a beautiful Asus Rampage with Intel i7-4930K (Corsair H100i cooling system), 32Gb Kingston Hyper Beast 2400mhz, 500Gb Samsung 840 SSD, 3TB Samsung HDD SATA for store, Nvdidia Geforce GTX 780 TI Overclocked, Cooler Master HAF XB case, Sony PS 3d Display 24 inch, ando two BENQ 24 inch displays, Corsair K70 keyboard, Logitech G700 mouse, Logitech G13, 3dconnexion Space Mouse Pro.
> 
> 
> 
> I validate with CPU-Z Validator
> http://valid.x86.fr/gdvmw5
> http://valid.canardpc.com/gdvmw5
> 
> I use my rig for 3d modelling, 3d animation and 3d game making with 3ds, blender, UDK and now learning Unreal Engine 4.
> 
> Im thinking of changing the case for a Cooler Master HAF X, because looks like have more space.
> 
> I wold like to receive your recomendatios if i can upgrade any part of my computer and the max speed i could overclock my processor for the use of my computer.
> 
> Sorry for my english, i know i have to practice more jajaja


Wow amazing, did you invert your board or is the photo upside down? I love my Air 540.....not sure if its big enough for you though, looks like it might be.

Here's my Air 540


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> No its faster, I'm not seeing a 50% improvement in 3DMark 11 Physics but I just ran Vantage earlier and CPU is exactly 50% faster than what my i7 3920 was pulling at 4.5GHz:
> 
> Thank You Sir and Thank You for serving in the US Armed Forces.


Thank-you sir, by the looks of your avatar looks like you were either in the Corps yourself or have family who was or is.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> besides the fact he is right about the voltage spike that you need very specialized multi thousand dollar equip to measure, i take extreme amounts of offense to this statement,
> 
> first NO ONE ever said to go buy a fluke to test your boards voltage, i always tell people to goto radio shack or a auto parts store.
> 
> second, right tool right job. those 300+ $ meters have their place. personally, as i am putting my hands in LIVE 460vac ( can spike upwards of 500vac ) with 200a + output capabilities, i will never put my life in the "hands" of a $30 meter. nor will i ever trust them.
> 
> to take measure ments off of a mobo sure.
> you sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELCOME !


$30 Radio Shack GETS THE JOB DONE!!!!!! What are working on ARV (Alien Reproduction Vehicles) at Groom Lake?!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> besides the fact he is right about the voltage spike that you need very specialized multi thousand dollar equip to measure, i take extreme amounts of offense to this statement,
> 
> _first NO ONE ever said to go buy a fluke to test your boards voltage, i always tell people to goto radio shack or a auto parts store_.
> 
> second, right tool right job. those 300+ $ meters have their place. personally, as i am putting my hands in *LIVE 460vac ( can spike upwards of 500vac ) with 200a + output capabilities,* i will never put my life in the "hands" of a $30 meter. nor will i ever trust them.
> 
> to take measure ments off of a mobo sure.
> you sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELCOME !
> 
> 
> 
> $30 Radio Shack GETS THE JOB DONE!!!!!! What are working on ARV (Alien Reproduction Vehicles) at Groom Lake?!
Click to expand...


----------



## vulcan78

What BIOS is everyone on and recommends?

Is 0602 any better than 0507?

If so, can someone recommend a bulletproof flashing guide? I hear flashing these things can be problematic. Can I keep 0507 on secondary just in case?


----------



## Mega Man

... flashing is not hard and very easy, i prefer usb biosflashback


----------



## vulcan78

I just ran Prime95 for about half an hour at 4.6Ghz with 1.424V. Memory was 2133 MHz on XMP with 1.5V. Max temps were:

77
82
74
77
83
81
83

Are there hotkeys for AI Suite 3? How do you go about setting up different profiles on the OC Panel? Is anyone doing this?


----------



## vulcan78

Update:

4.6GHz stable with 1.408V, at least as far as 35 minutes of Prime95 Torture goes:

Temps C:

75
80
72
74
80
78
80

Going to lock it down here. Would anyone with Offset Voltage working and an overclock be willing to post their exact settings? Seems no matter what Offset doesn't work for me. If I can get this working with an OC I will be just about done dialing this thing in.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## vulcan78

Just ran 3DMark 11, 14.5k Physics, an improvement to be sure but not the 15k I thought I would be seeing at 4.6GHz with this chip:

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8382216

Oh and temps:

CPU, no cores exceed 59C, half are 56 C.

GPU, 59 C.

Room temperature, custom GPU fan control algorithm set to 100% fan speed at 65 C but GPU is cool running to begin with:

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/evga_geforce_gtx_780_ti_sc_acx_superclock_review,8.html

And the Corsair Air 540's excellent design contributes to lower temps on top of that:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7124/corsair-carbide-air-540-case-review/5

All said I'm very happy with the performance of this thing having it mostly dialed in.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Hi, i have a beautiful Asus Rampage with Intel i7-4930K (Corsair H100i cooling system), 32Gb Kingston Hyper Beast 2400mhz, 500Gb Samsung 840 SSD, 3TB Samsung HDD SATA for store, Nvdidia Geforce GTX 780 TI Overclocked, Cooler Master HAF XB case, Sony PS 3d Display 24 inch, ando two BENQ 24 inch displays, Corsair K70 keyboard, Logitech G700 mouse, Logitech G13, 3dconnexion Space Mouse Pro.

ELXPYDER Very nice and welcome

4.6GHz stable with 1.408V, at least as far as 35 minutes of Prime95 Torture goes:

Temps C:

Nice temps.


----------



## Jpmboy

I think many R4BE owners (including me) experienced a slight bump in the vcore needed to hold a given frequency when switching from bios 507 to 602. Although focus should be on current, watts and heat... vcore always gets attention.








So, yeah - this bugged me too. Over the past couple of OC sessions I've tried to figure out what changed from 507 to 602 and think i got at least one aspect uncovered. With 502 I was fully stable at 4.6, 4.7 and 4.8 with 1.284V, 1.328V and 1.376V load vcore (p95) measured with my own Radioshack DMM







off the mobo. 602 is 1.296/1.312, 1.344/1.360, 1.392/1.408V respectively. LLC medium for 4.6 and 4.7, High for 4.8. I use offset OC but i think the end result will be the same for any bclk 100 users. So... I bumped CPU PLL from 1.800 to 1.8250V and have been able to lower vcore for 4.6 and 4.7 back to 507 levels by decreasing Additional Turbo in each case.. Temps are unchanged. Majority of testing and stability confirmation was done at 4.6 and 4.7, but this seems to be working for 4.8 and 4.85GHz (103.3 bclk)... so far.

anyway - an easy change to make and test.

vulcan - start Offset from *here*

edit: Bumping CPU PLL has dropped vcore by ~30mV for 4.7GHz. p95 Custom 5min/FFT for 60min - clean.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 8 pack I believe.


Well as you know JPM one can try to help as much as possible, even if it just helps one Member with his Overclocking i would call that a success lol!!
















I would like to say something to VULCAN you have sir the same kinda CPU i had before it was a DOG of a chip and would not Overclock to high!!

Also from own chats to Raja @ ASUS there are CPU's that Overclock to a certain level then just fall off a cliff and require a large amount of Vcore to make them work any higher!! Your sounds to one of those and as you know we can not all be lucky with the silicone Lottery!!

I would keep it for a while then send it back and exchange it later and hopefully you will get a much better one than you have @ present!

All the Best my friend,









AJ.


----------



## Kimir

A 4930k at 4.5Ghz can get 15k physics score, it also depend at what speed your ram are running at.
Here a comparison with one of my score, see I almost get 16k physics with my daily 4.5Ghz and ram at 2133 cas 8.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> A 4930k at 4.5Ghz can get 15k physics score, it also depend at what speed your ram are running at.
> Here a comparison with one of my score, see I almost get 16k physics with my daily 4.5Ghz and ram at 2133 cas 8.


vulcan's dual channel ram config will slow things up a bit.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I think many R4BE owners (including me) experienced a slight bump in the vcore needed to hold a given frequency when switching from bios 507 to 602. Although focus should be on current, watts and heat... vcore always gets attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, yeah - this bugged me too. Over the past couple of OC sessions I've tried to figure out what changed from 507 to 602 and think i got at least one aspect uncovered. With 502 I was fully stable at 4.6, 4.7 and 4.8 with 1.284V, 1.328V and 1.376V load vcore (p95) measured with my own Radioshack DMM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> off the mobo. 602 is 1.296/1.312, 1.344/1.360, 1.392/1.408V respectively. LLC medium for 4.6 and 4.7, High for 4.8. I use offset OC but i think the end result will be the same for any bclk 100 users. So... I bumped CPU PLL from 1.800 to 1.8250V and have been able to lower vcore for 4.6 and 4.7 back to 507 levels by decreasing Additional Turbo in each case.. Temps are unchanged. Majority of testing and stability confirmation was done at 4.6 and 4.7, but this seems to be working for 4.8 and 4.85GHz (103.3 bclk)... so far.
> 
> anyway - an easy change to make and test.
> 
> vulcan - start Offset from *here*
> 
> edit: Bumping CPU PLL has dropped vcore by ~30mV for 4.7GHz. p95 Custom 5min/FFT for 60min - clean.


Worked for me. Lowering voltage.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Worked for me. Lowering voltage.


Cool. I gotta get some more time on 4.8, but 4.6 and 4.7 straightened up quick.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I think many R4BE owners (including me) experienced a slight bump in the vcore needed to hold a given frequency when switching from bios 507 to 602. Although focus should be on current, watts and heat... vcore always gets attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, yeah - this bugged me too. Over the past couple of OC sessions I've tried to figure out what changed from 507 to 602 and think i got at least one aspect uncovered. With 502 I was fully stable at 4.6, 4.7 and 4.8 with 1.284V, 1.328V and 1.376V load vcore (p95) measured with my own Radioshack DMM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> off the mobo. 602 is 1.296/1.312, 1.344/1.360, 1.392/1.408V respectively. LLC medium for 4.6 and 4.7, High for 4.8. I use offset OC but i think the end result will be the same for any bclk 100 users. So... I bumped CPU PLL from 1.800 to 1.8250V and have been able to lower vcore for 4.6 and 4.7 back to 507 levels by decreasing Additional Turbo in each case.. Temps are unchanged. Majority of testing and stability confirmation was done at 4.6 and 4.7, but this seems to be working for 4.8 and 4.85GHz (103.3 bclk)... so far.
> 
> anyway - an easy change to make and test.
> 
> vulcan - start Offset from *here*
> 
> edit: Bumping CPU PLL has dropped vcore by ~30mV for 4.7GHz. p95 Custom 5min/FFT for 60min - clean.


For my chip to run R15 at 4.7 it took 1.475v. Adding PLL brought it down to 1.440v. It worked great for my 4.6 and 4.5 profiles.

Good work man!


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I think many R4BE owners (including me) experienced a slight bump in the vcore needed to hold a given frequency when switching from bios 507 to 602. Although focus should be on current, watts and heat... vcore always gets attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, yeah - this bugged me too. Over the past couple of OC sessions I've tried to figure out what changed from 507 to 602 and think i got at least one aspect uncovered. With 502 I was fully stable at 4.6, 4.7 and 4.8 with 1.284V, 1.328V and 1.376V load vcore (p95) measured with my own Radioshack DMM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> off the mobo. 602 is 1.296/1.312, 1.344/1.360, 1.392/1.408V respectively. LLC medium for 4.6 and 4.7, High for 4.8. I use offset OC but i think the end result will be the same for any bclk 100 users. So... I bumped CPU PLL from 1.800 to 1.8250V and have been able to lower vcore for 4.6 and 4.7 back to 507 levels by decreasing Additional Turbo in each case.. Temps are unchanged. Majority of testing and stability confirmation was done at 4.6 and 4.7, but this seems to be working for 4.8 and 4.85GHz (103.3 bclk)... so far.
> 
> anyway - an easy change to make and test.
> 
> vulcan - start Offset from *here*
> 
> edit: Bumping CPU PLL has dropped vcore by ~30mV for 4.7GHz. p95 Custom 5min/FFT for 60min - clean.


4.8 GHz with the same voltage, well now I really know i didn't win the silicon lottery. Are you seeing the voltage drop down at idle with Offset enabled? Oh I'm looking at your other post on the subject, so I have to set the amount of voltage for Offset to work? I thought it was automatic. I'm sorry if I sound like an idiot but what is CPU PLL and where exactly is this settin? What would you recommend for 4.6GHz?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Well as you know JPM one can try to help as much as possible, even if it just helps one Member with his Overclocking i would call that a success lol!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to say something to VULCAN you have sir the same kinda CPU i had before it was a DOG of a chip and would not Overclock to high!!
> 
> Also from own chats to Raja @ ASUS there are CPU's that Overclock to a certain level then just fall off a cliff and require a large amount of Vcore to make them work any higher!! Your sounds to one of those and as you know we can not all be lucky with the silicone Lottery!!
> 
> I would keep it for a while then send it back and exchange it later and hopefully you will get a much better one than you have @ present!
> 
> All the Best my friend,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


Yeah after hearing how some of you can realize 4.8Ghz with the same voltage I am positive I didn't win the silicon lottery. I will just keep it as high as it can go at ~1.4V and if the performance diminishes or it needs more voltage to maintain existing clocks (sure sign of a chip going) I will just trade it in under Intel's Tuning Plan, unlike some of you I really don't have much to lose. Kinda middle of the road actually, not a stellar performer but it is holding 4.6Ghz at 1.408V so I guess I should be somewhat happy (truthfully I am, loving the 4930 so far, coming from mobile 3920). I think I am right at that threshold where going any higher with the clock speed requires exponentially more voltage, 4.5Ghz was stable at 1.375V and now 4.6Ghz is stable with only a little more voltage at 1.408 but experimentation when I initially had the computer together revealed that 4.7Ghz required MORE than 4.5Ghz (4.72V actual/displayed) as even there it failed Prime95 Torture around the 17 minute mark. I know some of you guys do these stability tests over night etc. but for me if it makes it through 30 minutes or Prime95 that is "good enough for government work" unless I start experimenting BSOD in games etc, which I haven't and don't expect to.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> A 4930k at 4.5Ghz can get 15k physics score, it also depend at what speed your ram are running at.
> Here a comparison with one of my score, see I almost get 16k physics with my daily 4.5Ghz and ram at 2133 cas 8.


This is what I am talking about, what am I doing wrong or do I not know that is hindering my Physics scores? I have the memory set to XMP at 2133MHz and it's stable, but as Jpmboy noted it is only dual channel. Is that what is holding me back?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> vulcan's dual channel ram config will slow things up a bit.


By 'sleep states' do you mean C-States? I thought C-States had to be on either Auto or Enabled for Offset Voltage to work, IS THAT MY PROBLEM? Or is 'sleep states' EIST?


----------



## vulcan78

Update:

Found this review, can any recommend good 4x4Gb RAM between 2133MHz and 2400Mhz (also open to suggestion here) that is completely compatible with RIVBE? Thanks in advance!

http://www.legitreviews.com/ddr3-memory-performance-analysis-on-intel-x79_1779/3

I was thinking of using the existing 2x8GB sticks as a RAM Disc, since I have to stick with the same type and 4x8GB is going to be total overkill and I won't be able to use any of that as RAM Disc without sacrificing performance.

Is this doable?

Please, someone recommend some 4x4GB RAM, I wan't to step up to 2400 Mhz, would this be recommended or is it to much of a hassle at 4.6GHz?

Oh and lower profile than say Dominator Platinum as it will need to clear my massive air-cooler.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 4.8 GHz with the same voltage, well now I really know i didn't win the silicon lottery. Are you seeing the voltage drop down at idle with Offset enabled? Oh I'm looking at your other post on the subject, so I have to set the amount of voltage for Offset to work? I thought it was automatic. I'm sorry if I sound like an idiot but what is CPU PLL and where exactly is this settin? What would you recommend for 4.6GHz?
> Yeah after hearing how some of you can realize 4.8Ghz with the same voltage I am positive I didn't win the silicon lottery. I will just keep it as high as it can go at ~1.4V and if the performance diminishes or it needs more voltage to maintain existing clocks (sure sign of a chip going) I will just trade it in under Intel's Tuning Plan, unlike some of you I really don't have much to lose. Kinda middle of the road actually, not a stellar performer but it is holding 4.6Ghz at 1.408V so I guess I should be somewhat happy (truthfully I am, loving the 4930 so far, coming from mobile 3920). I think I am right at that threshold where going any higher with the clock speed requires exponentially more voltage, 4.5Ghz was stable at 1.375V and now 4.6Ghz is stable with only a little more voltage at 1.408 but experimentation when I initially had the computer together revealed that 4.7Ghz required MORE than 4.5Ghz (4.72V actual/displayed) as even there it failed Prime95 Torture around the 17 minute mark. I know some of you guys do these stability tests over night etc. but for me if it makes it through 30 minutes or Prime95 that is "good enough for government work" unless I start experimenting BSOD in games etc, which I haven't and don't expect to.
> This is what I am talking about, what am I doing wrong or do I not know that is hindering my Physics scores? I have the memory set to XMP at 2133MHz and it's stable, but as Jpmboy noted it is only dual channel. Is that what is holding me back?
> 
> 
> By 'sleep states' do you mean C-States? I thought C-States had to be on either Auto or Enabled for Offset Voltage to work, IS THAT MY PROBLEM? Or is 'sleep states' EIST?


On the R4Be leave C1E enabled and the rest can be Auto or disabled. If you use "Sleep" in Windows, leave them all on Auto and you'll need to experiment with internal PLL (on or off) for a clean wake from sleep (this is somewhat hit or miss, I don't "Sleep my PCs). I think I posted some bios screen shots some days (week?) ago...

Common problem on a new W load with Offset... check your advanced power states in windows and be sure the "Min Proc State" is 0%. Even when speedstep is enabled in bios, this windows settings can override down clocking and down volt.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> For my chip to run R15 at 4.7 it took 1.475v. Adding PLL brought it down to 1.440v. It worked great for my 4.6 and 4.5 profiles.
> 
> Good work man!


Thanks Bud ! Happy to help.









edit: in case you're not loading windows with all threads, type "msconfig" in the W search box and set 12 threads:


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Update:
> 
> Found this review, can any recommend good 4x4Gb RAM between 2133MHz and 2400Mhz (also open to suggestion here) that is completely compatible with RIVBE? Thanks in advance!
> 
> http://www.legitreviews.com/ddr3-memory-performance-analysis-on-intel-x79_1779/3
> 
> I was thinking of using the existing 2x8GB sticks as a RAM Disc, since I have to stick with the same type and 4x8GB is going to be total overkill and I won't be able to use any of that as RAM Disc without sacrificing performance.
> 
> Is this doable?
> 
> Please, someone recommend some 4x4GB RAM, I wan't to step up to 2400 Mhz, would this be recommended or is it to much of a hassle at 4.6GHz?
> 
> Oh and lower profile than say Dominator Platinum as it will need to clear my massive air-cooler.


lot's of options; Two ways you could go...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148658 which will (likely) OC to 2133 C9/10 depending on the IMC @ ~1.6V (these are looking like samsung magic ram)
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231586 STRAIGHT UP. The current crop of 2400C10 is "uninspiring". gSkill's 2400C9 is OOP.


----------



## Errorist66

@Jpmboy arg, my 4.5 voltage is you 4.8 voltage. I got the 3 years tuning play but rumor has it that Intel ships they worst chip on that plan...


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> lot's of options; Two ways you could go...
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148658 which will (likely) OC to 2133 C9/10 depending on the IMC @ ~1.6V (these are looking like samsung magic ram)
> or
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231586 STRAIGHT UP. The current crop of 2400C10 is "uninspiring". gSkill's 2400C9 is OOP.


Actually I should rephrase my recommendation request, I need memory that is no higher than 50mm (2") as that is the amount of clearance I have under the air cooler, the existing Corsair Vengeance Pro, with a height of 45mm fits no problem. Looking around on the net for good 4x4 memory on the RIVBE took me back here to this thread and a post by Ajay57 who SWEARS this RAM is a gift from heaven (oh and it has a height of 40mm).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503&cm_re=G.Skill_Ripjaws_Z_16GB_%284_x_4GB%29_DDR3_RAM_2133_Memory-_-20-231-503-_-Product

http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/6290

Well Ajay, if I get this memory, be prepared for me to pester you until you give me your exact settings.









Another question, would it be possible to get this memory and move my existing 2x8 Corsair Vengeance Pro to some outer slots to use as RAM Disk or being that they are a different type is this not possible? Supposing they all have to be the same capacity, even if I pick up 4x4 of Corsair Vengance Pro I will not be able to use the existing 2x8GB? Man this sucks, wish I would've done more research before jumping on this memory, it might be somewhat difficult to sell this now if I cannot use it. Oh well, I may just eat the $140 spent, quad channel bandwidth is a no-brainer with X79, ESPECIALLY RIVBE and Ivy E.

1k improvement in 3DMark 11 Physics with a 3930, this may go some way in explaining why I am sitting at 14.5k but expecting to see 15.5k at 4.6GHz.

http://www.legitreviews.com/ddr3-memory-performance-analysis-on-intel-x79_1779/3

Edit:

Looking at your second recommendation above, is "OOP" a bad thing lol?! The memory Ajay57 swears comes from Heaven looks like the same stuff but 2133MHz.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231586


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> On the R4Be leave C1E enabled and the rest can be Auto or disabled. If you use "Sleep" in Windows, leave them all on Auto and you'll need to experiment with internal PLL (on or off) for a clean wake from sleep (this is somewhat hit or miss, I don't "Sleep my PCs). I think I posted some bios screen shots some days (week?) ago...
> 
> Common problem on a new W load with Offset... check your advanced power states in windows and be sure the "Min Proc State" is 0%. Even when speedstep is enabled in bios, this windows settings can override down clocking and down volt.


IS THIS WHAT IT WAS!!! Man I am not kidding, I spent literally 3-4 hours going through and turning on and off every setting to try to get Offset Voltage to work, even going so far as loading a default profile on the secondary BIOS (which mysteriously works without changing the "Min Proc State" in Power Options in WIndows).

Well I suppose I will try some of your recommended settings in conjunction with "Min Proc State" at 0. Going by your earlier suggestion, youre saying Offset is only ideal between 4.2-4.5GHz? Is there a way to cap max voltage with Offset? Thanks again for all the help, +1 Rep.


----------



## vulcan78

Update:

Alternatively, I could stick with the memory I have and add 2 more 2x8 for considerably less than buying 4x4 G.Skill Ripjaws.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CORSAIR-VENGEANCE-PRO-SERIES-16GB-2x8-DDR3-PC-17000-2133MHZ-/321419459704?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item4ad617bc78

If I set up say 16GB as RAM Disc, how does this work? Can I allocate say 4GB of each stick to this or does it just take 2 out of 4 sticks? What I would like to do is have my cake and eat it to, be able to use quad channel memory but also use the excess as RAM Disc.


----------



## vulcan78

I picked up the 2x8 Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz, I'm using it now and it works well on XMP. I just need to figure out if I can allocate say 16GB of it all to RAM Disk and still reap the benefits of quad channel memory.....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Mixing sets of memory isn't a good idea. Even multiple sets of the exact same ram can cause issues. There's plenty of examples of people experiencing exactly that in just this thread, including umpteen posts by LunaP, the thread-starter.

Also, it's pretty poor netiquette to double / triple / quadruple post in forums. If yours is the last post in a thread and you have something else you want to write you should use the edit button to add to it.


----------



## vulcan78

Sorry about that Mr. Crab!! Well we shall see, I am willing to bet that the memory will work!!! People getting away with mixing RAM from different manufacturers and I even added 2x4 Corsair Vengeance to complement the existing 2x4 Kingston on my M18x R2 without any ado but I am sure there are a few cases here and there of incompatibility issues!

One example among many, different manufacturer, serial, batch and frequency! Better tell them they can't do that!!!

http://forums.hexus.net/memory/320609-mixing-corsair-vengeance-1600-kingston-hyperx-2400-a.html

Oh and I ordered some copper heatspreaders as the sticks under my intake fan will push said fan up a bit and I am willing to bet thick copper (30g per stick) will conduct heat significantly better than the thin aluminium decorative heat-spreaders Corsair ships their RAM with.

http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/enzotech-forged-copper-ram-heatspreader-ram-32.html


----------



## Goggle Eye

mixing sets of memory isn't a good idea







]

Mixing 2 kits of the same part number no, no, no.

Was going to purchase 2 x 16 gig kits to make up a 32 gig kit from the same MFG Not a good idea

Thanks to OCN prevented me from wasting a lot of money purchasing two separate kits.

One example among many, different manufacturer, serial, batch and frequency! Better tell them they can't do that!!!

What mixing kits? Non Since

Chips can be different on the same Part number on a kit from the same MFG.

Depending on supply and demand could be using Hynix, Powerchip, Micron one day and the next day using Samsung, Elpida, Qimonda, just to mention a few.


----------



## skupples

What ever happened to @LunaP?

iv'e been really lucky w/ the two kits of memory that I mixed, but i'm not asking it to do much really.

2400mhz Cas 10 Trident X running 1866 cas 9. Still working on getting the timings down. Keeping things stable @ 2333 (strap 125) was just a PITA. I'll take the 5.0 3930k w/ 1866 9. Doesn't seem to affect my gaming performance.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> @Jpmboy arg, my 4.5 voltage is you 4.8 voltage. I got the 3 years tuning play but rumor has it that Intel ships they worst chip on that plan...


NO they ship a sealed retail chip, Intel have no reason to bin chips, retailers do for there systems etc, so basically your just having a go at the lottery again. mine was similar to vulcans and i took the gamble as going by Raja's binning i'd either end up with one roughly the same or better, this time it paid off and got one better









@Vulcan i'm using the trident X 4x4gb quad kit 2400 CL10, you can unscrew the top bit so should fit and i can run mine at 2460mhz CL9 and tight subs, not as tight as dom plats but not far off and these are half the price


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah price for dom plats are outa this world bought my 32Gb kit 2400mhz $450 now if you can find Em ncix has a set for $942 lol.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> *NO they ship a sealed retail chip*, Intel have no reason to bin chips, retailers do for there systems etc, so basically your just having a go at the lottery again. mine was similar to vulcans and i took the gamble as going by Raja's binning i'd either end up with one roughly the same or better, this time it paid off and got one better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Vulcan i'm using the trident X 4x4gb quad kit 2400 CL10, you can unscrew the top bit so should fit and i can run mine at 2460mhz CL9 and tight subs, not as tight as dom plats but not far off and these are half the price


^^This

Nick - what voltage you running 2460c9 at?

edit: just ordered a set of those 1600 c8 1.35V sticks, will see if they OC well. ([email protected]$175)


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> ^^This
> 
> Nick - what voltage you running 2460c9 at?
> 
> edit: just ordered a set of those 1600 c8 1.35V sticks, will see if they OC well. ([email protected]$175)


tbh i just stick 'em, at 1.75v sure they will go lower but keep messing with oc profiles so i just put them at that as i know they work


----------



## nickolp1974

@VULCAN, my settings for you using offset(maxes at 1.408v in windows, 100% stable for me)

if anyone else can offer any tweaks for me i'd appreciate it









Edit: looks like i left cursor over the offset voltage which was 0.095v


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> tbh i just stick 'em, at 1.75v sure they will go lower but keep messing with oc profiles so i just put them at that as i know they work


Thx.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> @VULCAN, my settings for you using offset(maxes at 1.408v in windows, 100% stable for me)
> 
> if anyone else can offer any tweaks for me i'd appreciate it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: looks like i left cursor over the offset voltage which was 0.095v
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


NIce - clearly highly tweaked!







Only thing I would work on is lowering the VCCSA, both volts and VSA LLC for that clock. iPLL is enabled?

I assume you have that saved to a bios slot? If yes, that chip is probably capable of 4.8 if you lower some of the other on-die voltage rails (like vtt and vsa)


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Thanks Bud ! Happy to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: in case you're not loading windows with all threads, type "msconfig" in the W search box and set 12 threads:


I don't think I was. Just checked and box was unchecked.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Thx.
> NIce - clearly highly tweaked!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing I would work on is lowering the VCCSA, both volts and VSA LLC for that clock. iPLL is enabled?
> 
> I assume you have that saved to a bios slot? If yes, that chip is probably capable of 4.8 if you lower some of the other on-die voltage rails (like vtt and vsa)


Not tweaked too much tbh, playin about more with offset due to it helping keep overall temps down which in turn helps my gpu









Had it run pi 1m @ 5ghz










Highest 3D bench clocks are around 4880 @ 1.5v and ram around 2400mhz but dont push too much at those volts.

Getting a weird issue at moment where system will just shut down with no warning, not done it before but has happened 3 times today, is this the board or something else??


----------



## webhito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> Not tweaked too much tbh, playin about more with offset due to it helping keep overall temps down which in turn helps my gpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had it run pi 1m @ 5ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Highest 3D bench clocks are around 4880 @ 1.5v and ram around 2400mhz but dont push too much at those volts.
> 
> Getting a weird issue at moment where system will just shut down with no warning, not done it before but has happened 3 times today, is this the board or something else??


Had the same thing going on with an unstable overclock, would happen at random times with movies or audio, never with games or browsing.

Cadaveca helped me narrow it down to my vccsa and vtt, ended up raising it a bit and since then have not had an issue.


----------



## nickolp1974

My settings have been the same for 3-4 weeks and not had an issue, the only thing i have done today is disable other C states apart from C1e, have in the past run vtt and sa lower and no issue.
Its like someone just flicks the power switch off then it boots back up again by itself. Not had chance to re enable the other C states to see if it rectifies the problem.

Raja if you read this i'd be interested to know your thoughts.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> Not tweaked too much tbh, playin about more with offset due to it helping keep overall temps down which in turn helps my gpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had it run pi 1m @ 5ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> URL=http://s636.photobucket.com/user/nickolp1974/media/50_zps156f8c99.png.html]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> Highest 3D bench clocks are around 4880 @ 1.5v and ram around 2400mhz but dont push too much at those volts.
> 
> Getting a weird issue at moment where system will just shut down with no warning, not done it before but has happened 3 times today, is this the board or something else??


Depends on what was going on when it happend. Probably triggered an OCP, or if it just did a black out, likely ram.

What stability testing did you do at that 4.77, 2460 set up? Or with the settings that black out?


----------



## nickolp1974

I use asus real bench 2 for stability, for me if it passes this it will do anything i want it too. First cinebench as a sighter then add a couple more clicks and this 99% of the time will pass ARB2

I was uploading to photobucket when blackouts happened, all 3 times









Have been playing about with settings today so i may of missed something.

Edit : one thing i did do is change power plan low cpu state from 5% to 0%


----------



## LunaP

Been a while, will be going through the thread, been busy job hunting and studying irl, final semesters and innovation projects are killing me.

Gonna see if I can transfer club ownership to someone else. Board wise still in horrible shape, can't go over stock w/o freezing, don't see any updates as of yet, and RMA is now almost 6 months old with still no replacement.

Might check around for 4930k's and hope to catch a sale.

Hope everyone's well, and glad to hear others are having better luck, I just really got the worst egg of the bunch.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> Not tweaked too much tbh, playin about more with offset due to it helping keep overall temps down which in turn helps my gpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had it run pi 1m @ 5ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Highest 3D bench clocks are around 4880 @ 1.5v and ram around 2400mhz but dont push too much at those volts.
> Getting a weird issue at moment where system will just shut down with no warning, not done it before but has happened 3 times today, is this the board or something else??


If it will do R15, post your best OC *Here*

been running min proc state at 0% for years across multiple cpu generations. that's not the cause. Check the stability using another method.

while uploading? are you using the on-board wireless?

and..

ring up some numbers with that OC:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1443196/firestrike-extreme-top-30
http://www.overclock.net/t/1464813/3d-mark-11-extreme-top-30
http://www.overclock.net/t/872945/top-30-3d-mark-13-fire-strike-scores-in-crossfire-sli
http://www.overclock.net/t/1235557/official-top-30-heaven-benchmark-4-0-scores
http://www.overclock.net/t/1360884/official-top-30-unigine-valley-benchmark-1-0
http://www.overclock.net/t/1361939/top-30-3dmark11-scores-for-single-dual-tri-quad
http://www.overclock.net/t/1406832/single-gpu-firestrike-top-30


----------



## Nizzen

Ist there a newer Bios than 0602?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizzen*
> 
> Ist there a newer Bios than 0602?


0602 is it.

http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/HelpDesk_Download/


----------



## vulcan78

Update:

I got Offset to work! Thanks to JPMBoy, I used your recommended settings as a template but made a few changes.

AI OC: XMP
Strap: Auto
Add Turbo: Auto
VCORE Offset: .105V
LLC: High

4.5GHz
Displayed VCORE under load: 1.392 (occasionally dropping to 1.376V)
Actual VCORE under load as reported by DMM: 1.398V mostly constant.

So I was able to dial back LLC from Extreme to High with Offset, which I couldn't really do with Manual. I tried to get 4.6GHz stable at 1.408V (occasionally jumping to 1.424V) but after taking a reading here discovered that actual voltage as measured by the DMM was 1.428 (+.02V) and even that isn't enough to maintain 4.6GHz in Prime95. So out of curiosity I set LLC from High to Extreme and took another reading and found that although 1.408-1.424V was being displayed, actual voltage was 1.445V. So it wasn't just 1.408V that was needed to sustain 4.6GHz with my previous settings, it was actually 1.455V and I had it at that constant under Manual Voltage. I am very pleased to see the voltage dropping down to .944V at idle and knowing that its not going over 1.398V with LLC on High at 4.5GHz .

JPMBoy, I remember you saying something about increasing CPU PLL to drop VCORE .03V? I might wan't to try this if it will let me get away with 4.6GHz at ~1.4V, any specific setting where I am at?

Another question, while I was disabling PCIE and CPU Spread Spectrum I was wondering what this does and if there is a hit in performance etc. Any idea?

Anyone willing to help me OC my Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz to 2400Mhz?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> mixing sets of memory isn't a good idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> Mixing 2 kits of the same part number no, no, no.
> 
> Was going to purchase 2 x 16 gig kits to make up a 32 gig kit from the same MFG Not a good idea
> 
> Thanks to OCN prevented me from wasting a lot of money purchasing two separate kits.
> 
> One example among many, different manufacturer, serial, batch and frequency! Better tell them they can't do that!!!
> 
> What mixing kits? Non Since
> 
> Chips can be different on the same Part number on a kit from the same MFG.
> 
> Depending on supply and demand could be using Hynix, Powerchip, Micron one day and the next day using Samsung, Elpida, Qimonda, just to mention a few.


Yeah I was thinking of that, how although a vendors RAM appears identical by outward appearance and model number it could in fact have memory chips made by different manufacturers and that is the issue with incompatibility.

Thing is, it was either pay an additional $130 for the same 2133MHz memory with hopefully the same components and have a 32GB pool with which to allocate roughly 20GB of to RAM Disk OR pay $170 for 4x4 G.Skill Ripjaws that will surely work with a listed frequency of 2400MHz (no guarantee that it will run at that though) but with only half the memory pool with no real room to set up a RAM Disk.

So it is really a gamble, will it work? There is no telling, but for $130 for 32GB 2133MHz (I would like to get 2400MHz out of them, Corsair Vengeance Pro if anyone would like to share their settings or point me in the right direction) and RAM Disk it was a chance I was willing to make.

If they don't work together in the end I will pull them out and list them on ebay for $115 or so per 2x set used, I have stellar feedback so if anyone else is looking for this memory they should sell. I'll then probably pick up the G.Skill stuff.

32GB of good 2400MHz memory might be beyond my budget, I picked up the 32GB of Vengeance Pro for $260 shipped, not counting the x4 forged copper low-profile heat-spreaders that were another $60. I hear 32GB of Dominator Platinum is over $500 or so?

We shall see, I have a good feeling they will work fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Yeah price for dom plats are outa this world bought my 32Gb kit 2400mhz $450 now if you can find Em ncix has a set for $942 lol.


^ Or over $900!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> @VULCAN, my settings for you using offset(maxes at 1.408v in windows, 100% stable for me)
> 
> if anyone else can offer any tweaks for me i'd appreciate it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: looks like i left cursor over the offset voltage which was 0.095v
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


4.8GHz you bastard!!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> I use asus real bench 2 for stability, for me if it passes this it will do anything i want it too. First cinebench as a sighter then add a couple more clicks and this 99% of the time will pass ARB2
> 
> I was uploading to photobucket when blackouts happened, all 3 times
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have been playing about with settings today so i may of missed something.
> 
> Edit : one thing i did do is change power plan low cpu state from 5% to 0%


Yeah the power plan setting turned out in the end to be the one unknown setting that was preventing Offset from working right, if it wasn't for this forum I would still be at what I thought was 1.408V constant (1.445V actual) for 4.6GHz.

Where do I get Asus Real Bench? On second thought, maybe nevermind, I can see it now, although Prime95 is stable its gonna fail this benchmark, I kind of don't even want to try Aida64 or Asus Real Bench, 30 minutes of Prime95 Torture is stable enough for me!!!

Update:

Seems like I lost about 300 points Physics in 3DMark 11 as compared to 4.5GHz manual voltage. Any idea why?

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8388541

Can't wait to get quad channel memory going.


----------



## Jpmboy

Nice!







Save your setting to a bios slot! Then:

Try taking your offset to 5mV Offset voltage and 100-108mV Additional Turbo. This will lower idle vcore and work the same. With speedstep, the idea is to use the lowest offset possible and address the dynamic demand for power through application of turbo voltage by CPU demand. The thing to watch is the power (watts). get a copy of CoreTemp 1.0 RC6, at 4.6 should peak @~ 160W (+23% TDP)

Once you have most of your voltage moved to Turbo, add 25mV to CPU PLL and try lowring turbo voltage in 4mV steps. Run R15 each time until R15 freezes or 124s. THen either bump T back up by 4, or add another bin to CPU PLL until it's stable again. What's important here is to ensure that your starting point is actually stable and stays under 75C during the 2nd and 4th FFT in p95 ( - use 5min per FFT, not 15min).

what bclk did your XMP load?


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Save your setting to a bios slot! Then:
> 
> Try taking your offset to 5mV Offset voltage and 100-108mV Additional Turbo. This will lower idle vcore and work the same. With speedstep, the idea is to use the lowest offset possible and address the dynamic demand for power through application of turbo voltage by CPU demand. The thing to watch is the power (watts). get a copy of CoreTemp 1.0 RC6, at 4.6 should peak @~ 160W (+23% TDP)
> 
> Once you have most of your voltage moved to Turbo, add 25mV to CPU PLL and try lowring turbo voltage in 4mV steps. Run R15 each time until R15 freezes or 124s. THen either bump T back up by 4, or add another bin to CPU PLL until it's stable again. What's important here is to ensure that your starting point is actually stable and stays under 75C during the 2nd and 4th FFT in p95 ( - use 5min per FFT, not 15min).
> 
> what bclk did your XMP load?


Ah yes I see, excellent advice. Will 4.5GHz be stable at idle moving that 100mV over to Turbo? While I'm typing this its at .875V. Ok I will get a copy of CoreTemp and check peak wattage, just for an idea I have CPU Current Capacity at 160% and CPU Phase Control on Extreme as the 140% on Optimized was resulting in abrupt system shutdowns, a sign of inadequate current under load.

Ok I believe CPU PLL is auto right now, so initially input .025V and add .004V in steps from there?

I will reduce FFT size from 15 to 5 minutes, right now its on Blend, keep it here?

XMP has BCLK at 100 I believe.

Thanks again.


----------



## doctakedooty

So finally got a good super pi 1m run done on my 4930K I was able to do 5027 MHz and ram was @ 2462 9-11-11-27-1 timings. 7.285 secs was my run for #13 for hardware rankings. I am pretty happy with that till I get a 4770k and some LN2 or DICE.
http://hwbot.org/submission/2557470_doctakedooty_superpi___1m_core_i7_4930k_7sec_285ms


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> If it will do R15, post your best OC *Here*
> 
> been running min proc state at 0% for years across multiple cpu generations. that's not the cause. Check the stability using another method.
> 
> while uploading? are you using the on-board wireless?
> 
> and..
> 
> ring up some numbers with that OC:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1443196/firestrike-extreme-top-30
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1464813/3d-mark-11-extreme-top-30
> http://www.overclock.net/t/872945/top-30-3d-mark-13-fire-strike-scores-in-crossfire-sli
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1235557/official-top-30-heaven-benchmark-4-0-scores
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1360884/official-top-30-unigine-valley-benchmark-1-0
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1361939/top-30-3dmark11-scores-for-single-dual-tri-quad
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1406832/single-gpu-firestrike-top-30


Posted firestrike and 3d 11 scores but cant compete with your KPE


----------



## vulcan78

Update!

Good news! Adding CPU PLL allowed me to dial back VCORE .4V! At 1.9PLL (+.1V) 4.5GHz was stable at 1.355V DMM, down from 1.398V DMM, so I figured with the head-room I would shoot for 4.6GHz, which unfortunately was not stable at 1.40V, but undeterred and willing to test Intel's technical wisdom (1.4V max pfffft) I added another 10mV and got it stable four consecutive 5 minute FFT's Prime95 with DMM voltage during the first FFT at 1.413V which then dropped to 1.404V and remained here for the remainder of the stability test.

Peak Wattage Drawn via CoreTemp64: 180W (during second and fourth FFT)

Temps C:

77
81
74
75
82
79
82

Ambient: Room temperature, 70 F.

Idle temps: 24-29 C.

It's idling at .800V!

4.6GHz stable right around 1.40V!

Settings:

Additional Turbo Voltage: .180V
CPU PLL: 1.9V

This is great news, upping the CPU PLL has allowed me to run AT LEAST 40mV less voltage as before 4.6GHz wasn't even stable at 4.445V as registered on the DMM!! It's now stable at 1.404V for the majority of p95!

Super stoked, thank-you again Jpmboy, if I could + rep you twice I would. Oh and thanks for suggesting I do 5 minute p95 FFT's, that alone really saved a lot of time as I didn't have to wait until the 2nd FFT to get intensive around the 18 minute mark where I normally would get a BSOD if voltage was inadequate, now it happens at the 5:30 mark. Oh and Cinebench R15 is great but I was finding that sometimes it would pass R15 but then fail p95 and I like the longer tests as they allow you to go and take a physical voltage reading on the motherboard.

Now all I need to do is get my additional sticks of RAM in, and maybe dial those in at 2400MHz and then I am all set!

*Update!*

I just ran another 20 minutes of 5 minute FFT's p95 with PLL dialed back to 1.85V and its just as stable! What happened was early on, seeing positive results with the additional .5 PLL but then experiencing BSOD I added another .5V PLL for good measure but it seems beyond a certain point, for me around .5V PLL, there are no more gains to be had as far as reducing VCORE goes. I had a feeling that 1.85V PLL would be stable and it is. I could try 1.825V PLL but I kind of don't see the point.

I am actually seeing 185W drawn during both the 2nd and 4th FFT. I tried changing CPU Power Phase Control from "Extreme" to Optimized but keeping Current Capability at 150% to see if this would reduce in less wattage drawn but it didn't.

I would just set it to the 140% in Optimized but doing this results in total system shutdown, indicative of current starvation. At least I dialed it back from 160% and its still stable.

Temps are ok, half the cores at 80 C and I am on air at 1.4V. I could consider redoing the TIM, but I am not sure that I did a poor job to begin with (pea sized blob center of die, mount cooler).

Should I be concerned with the wattage and if so what other changes can be made to prevent the system shutdowns?

Update:

Finally getting a chance to play a few games, I am not seeing anything higher than 3400MHz now that I am have Offset Voltage working. Is it simply because the games are not demanding enough or is it something to do with EIST or C-States? Planetside 2 can be pretty CPU intensive, but nothing higher than 3.4GHz, and it feels as though I lost a bit of performance in game, maybe 10 FPS, but that could be subjective as the game is very dynamic with different populations and environments.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So finally got a good super pi 1m run done on my 4930K I was able to do 5027 MHz and ram was @ 2462 9-11-11-27-1 timings. 7.285 secs was my run for #13 for hardware rankings. I am pretty happy with that till I get a 4770k and some LN2 or DICE.
> http://hwbot.org/submission/2557470_doctakedooty_superpi___1m_core_i7_4930k_7sec_285ms


Amazing! Did you buy a binned chip or did you just luck out? What kind of voltage?


----------



## Goggle Eye

congrats on the over clock.

Amazing! Did you buy a binned chip or did you just luck out? What kind of voltage?

I thought all chips was binned?

Pleaseeeeeeeeeee everyone keeps talking about a binned chip. What is a binned chip hope not showing my ignorance to bad by asking a stupid question. Is that the testing procedure when they MFG a chip to verify the maximum MHz of the chip?


----------



## alancsalt

Or like when someone goes through a tray of them to find the best overclockers... and then sells them for a premium.


----------



## nickolp1974

@Vulcan that's great!! But sorry to burst your bubble if your adding more ram and at a faster speed you will be tweaking some more unless your chip has a very good IMC, running dual channel or low speed will generally mean a higher OC is achievable.
The more GB ram or greater speed 2133mhz + usually equates to a lower overclock. Just remember though CPU speed is King, ram is secondary, just makes your system more efficient.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So finally got a good super pi 1m run done on my 4930K I was able to do 5027 MHz and ram was @ 2462 9-11-11-27-1 timings. 7.285 secs was my run for #13 for hardware rankings. I am pretty happy with that till I get a 4770k and some LN2 or DICE.
> http://hwbot.org/submission/2557470_doctakedooty_superpi___1m_core_i7_4930k_7sec_285ms


very nice doc! I saw your entry on the Team page.


----------



## TheGin

add me to the list!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> @Vulcan that's great!! But sorry to burst your bubble if your adding more ram and at a faster speed you will be tweaking some more unless your chip has a very good IMC, running dual channel or low speed will generally mean a higher OC is achievable.
> The more GB ram or greater speed 2133mhz + usually equates to a lower overclock. Just remember though CPU speed is King, ram is secondary, just makes your system more efficient.


probably only need to adjust vsa and vtt (and of course vdram)









benchmarks...
nah, you'd gain a bunch running firestrike at higher than 4.6GHz: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1626049


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Amazing! Did you buy a binned chip or did you just luck out? What kind of voltage?


I went through about 5 chips before I got one that could do better then 4.5 ghz and this one does 4.7. It took 1.67v to achieve over 5 ghz which I wouldnt recommend. I had it turned up long enough using the oc tool to make my passes then back the volts back down.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> very nice doc! I saw your entry on the Team page.


Thank you I am usually benching all the time anyways so started trying to do hwbot more before I start extreme cooling in the next 2 months. I am going to keep my 4930k and rivbe in my gaming rig and going to use the 5960x and a 4770k or 4790k on my test bench.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> I went through about 5 chips before I got one that could do better then 4.5 ghz and this one does 4.7. It took 1.67v to achieve over 5 ghz which I wouldnt recommend. I had it turned up long enough using the oc tool to make my passes then back the volts back down.
> Thank you I am usually benching all the time anyways so started trying to do hwbot more before I start extreme cooling in the next 2 months. I am going to keep my 4930k and rivbe in my gaming rig and going to use the 5960x and a 4770k or 4790k on my test bench.


5960X eh? nice! I'll be looking to see if the new family OCs well...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Update!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Good news! Adding CPU PLL allowed me to dial back VCORE .4V! At 1.9PLL (+.1V) 4.5GHz was stable at 1.355V DMM, down from 1.398V DMM, so I figured with the head-room I would shoot for 4.6GHz, which unfortunately was not stable at 1.40V, but undeterred and willing to test Intel's technical wisdom (1.4V max pfffft) I added another 10mV and got it stable four consecutive 5 minute FFT's Prime95 with DMM voltage during the first FFT at 1.413V which then dropped to 1.404V and remained here for the remainder of the stability test.
> 
> Peak Wattage Drawn via CoreTemp64: 180W (during second and fourth FFT)
> 
> Temps C:
> 
> 77
> 81
> 74
> 75
> 82
> 79
> 82
> 
> Ambient: Room temperature, 70 F.
> 
> Idle temps: 24-29 C.
> 
> It's idling at .800V!
> 
> 4.6GHz stable right around 1.40V!
> 
> Settings:
> 
> Additional Turbo Voltage: .180V
> CPU PLL: 1.9V
> 
> This is great news, upping the CPU PLL has allowed me to run AT LEAST 40mV less voltage as before 4.6GHz wasn't even stable at 4.445V as registered on the DMM!! It's now stable at 1.404V for the majority of p95!
> 
> Super stoked, thank-you again Jpmboy, if I could + rep you twice I would. Oh and thanks for suggesting I do 5 minute p95 FFT's, that alone really saved a lot of time as I didn't have to wait until the 2nd FFT to get intensive around the 18 minute mark where I normally would get a BSOD if voltage was inadequate, now it happens at the 5:30 mark. Oh and Cinebench R15 is great but I was finding that sometimes it would pass R15 but then fail p95 and I like the longer tests as they allow you to go and take a physical voltage reading on the motherboard.
> 
> Now all I need to do is get my additional sticks of RAM in, and maybe dial those in at 2400MHz and then I am all set!
> 
> *Update!*
> 
> I just ran another 20 minutes of 5 minute FFT's p95 with PLL dialed back to 1.85V and its just as stable! What happened was early on, seeing positive results with the additional .5 PLL but then experiencing BSOD I added another .5V PLL for good measure but it seems beyond a certain point, for me around .5V PLL, there are no more gains to be had as far as reducing VCORE goes. I had a feeling that 1.85V PLL would be stable and it is. I could try 1.825V PLL but I kind of don't see the point.
> 
> 
> 
> *I am actually seeing 185W drawn during both the 2nd and 4th FFT.* I tried changing CPU Power Phase Control from "Extreme" to Optimized but keeping Current Capability at 150% to see if this would reduce in less wattage drawn but it didn't.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I would just set it to the 140% in Optimized but doing this results in total system shutdown, indicative of current starvation. At least I dialed it back from 160% and its still stable.
> 
> Temps are ok, half the cores at 80 C and I am on air at 1.4V. I could consider redoing the TIM, but I am not sure that I did a poor job to begin with (pea sized blob center of die, mount cooler).
> 
> Should I be concerned with the wattage and if so what other changes can be made to prevent the system shutdowns?
> 
> Update:
> 
> Finally getting a chance to play a few games, I am not seeing anything higher than 3400MHz now that I am have Offset Voltage working. Is it simply because the games are not demanding enough or is it something to do with EIST or C-States? Planetside 2 can be pretty CPU intensive, but nothing higher than 3.4GHz, and it feels as though I lost a bit of performance in game, maybe 10 FPS, but that could be subjective as the game is very dynamic with different populations and environments.
> Amazing! Did you buy a binned chip or did you just luck out? What kind of voltage?


seems very high.. but maybe it's the cooling. 80C during p95 is fine, you won't come close to that doing anything else (excluding linpac, IBT etc). at 4.5 I was hoping to see right around TDP during the small FFTs. But if it's stable, no worries - good job Bro!.









4.5 p95 shot:


you can rep as much as you like...


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 5960X eh? nice! I'll be looking to see if the new family OCs well...


Hopefully it does since looks like the only 8 core will be the 5960x guess thats my only choice when it comes to haswell-e


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Hopefully it does since looks like the only 8 core will be the 5960x guess thats my only choice when it comes to haswell-e


yeah, gonna have to put a whole 'nother kit together this fall. Probably retire this 2700K to htpc/security cam duty... move the r4be/4960X to this workstation.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yeah, gonna have to put a whole 'nother kit together this fall. Probably retire this 2700K to htpc/security cam duty... move the r4be/4960X to this workstation.


Yea trust me I hate it to we knew 2011 was dieing with ivy bridge e. I find more fun tweaking and tuning and am addicted to trying to get high numbers over gaming. Thats why I am working on getting all my extreme cooling stuff together have 2 rigs dedicated for the bench and use my 4930k for my everyday/ gaming pc which should be good for awhile for gaming.


----------



## szeged

I for one welcome our new 5960x overlords, plan on getting one myself with a rampage v extreme lol.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I for one welcome our new 5960x overlords, plan on getting one myself with a rampage v extreme lol.


----------



## Ajay57

Can i post this as i do not wish to SPAM this great thread of ours?? This is the latest news on the Haswell-E CPU's!!

1, http://thepcenthusiast.com/intel-haswell-e-processors-core-i7-5960x-i7-5930k-i7-5820k/

2, http://wccftech.com/intel-haswelle-core-i7-5960x-core-i7-5930k-core-i7-5820k-specifications-unveiled-flagship-8-core-boost-33-ghz/

If by chance these posts are a problem then i would be only willing to DELETE them!!









Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## nickolp1974

much as i dare go with this chip


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://s636.photobucket.com/user/nickolp1974/media/5_zpsde8303b6.png.html


----------



## vulcan78

Update:

I figured out the low clocks while gaming, I simply had to switch the Windows Power Plan from Balanced to High Performance, making sure to switch the minimum power from 100% to 10% so that EIST continues to work. I also learned how to create power plan shortcuts, assign hotkeys to them (Ctrl+Alt+1 for High Performance etc.) and then hide all the icons on the desktop. Very slick.

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/create-a-shortcut-or-hotkey-to-switch-power-plans/

(To disappear all desktop icons simply right-click on desktop and select view, there you will see an option "show desktop icons".

But I am now realizing I have an issue with getting BSOD pulling the computer out of sleep. I have already tried moving 60mV from Add Turbo Voltage back to VCORE but the problem remains. Any ideas?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> congrats on the over clock.
> 
> Amazing! Did you buy a binned chip or did you just luck out? What kind of voltage?
> 
> I thought all chips was binned?
> 
> Pleaseeeeeeeeeee everyone keeps talking about a binned chip. What is a binned chip hope not showing my ignorance to bad by asking a stupid question. Is that the testing procedure when they MFG a chip to verify the maximum MHz of the chip?


No worries, as you can tell I am new to a lot of this as well, I just learned this recently myself. Let me see if I have this right, a "binned" chip is a CPU whose serial number is among a batch or "bin" of other chips that may have tighter quality control measures taken during the manufacturing process or are coming from a location that statistically speaking, has had better overclockers in the past, that would pertain to the "batch number":

http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=84216

I think the last digits of the serial number are the batch number. Mine is from Costa Rica. It obviously isn't a stellar overclocker. RJavier's chip is in the same batch, also from Costa Rica, but he seems to be able to maintain 4.6GHz with slightly lower VCORE (1.344V if memory serves me) BUT he's running auto LLC and when I used his prescribed settings auto equated to Extreme which for me translates into a .04V discrepancy between displayed and actual voltage as measured by DMM (1.408V displayed, DMM 1.445V). Still better than mine.

Buying a "binned" chip means that their batch ID is among a batch that statistically higher overclockers derive from. "Binned" simply means that if they were sitting in a warehouse somewhere, they would be sitting in a different "bin" (probably marked High Quality) with the others, including mine, in the Mediocre bin.

Why do some chips overclock higher than others? There are a few factors, one of which can be as simple as how clean the manufacturing facility is, in the following video, "How a CPU is Made" you will see that people working in these facilities are wearing full surgical scrubs to mitigate against dust build up.





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> @Vulcan that's great!! But sorry to burst your bubble if your adding more ram and at a faster speed you will be tweaking some more unless your chip has a very good IMC, running dual channel or low speed will generally mean a higher OC is achievable.
> The more GB ram or greater speed 2133mhz + usually equates to a lower overclock. Just remember though CPU speed is King, ram is secondary, just makes your system more efficient.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> probably only need to adjust vsa and vtt (and of course vdram)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> benchmarks...
> nah, you'd gain a bunch running firestrike at higher than 4.6GHz: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1626049












Update:

Trying to troubleshoot the BSOD upon waking from "sleep" I set the multipliers to 44 with the same voltage and it still occurs so I don't think it is the OC.

Edit: BlueScreenView is showing ntoskrnl.exe as the culprit. Should I move the voltage back over from Additional Turbo Voltage to VCORE? Its sitting at .832V at idle. I wonder if this is the issue as it will BSOD even at 44x.

Another possibility from google searching is the display driver, I did just update to 337.91.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> much as i dare go with this chip
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s636.photobucket.com/user/nickolp1974/media/5_zpsde8303b6.png.html


much braver than I !


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> much as i dare go with this chip
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s636.photobucket.com/user/nickolp1974/media/5_zpsde8303b6.png.html


hey bud - I noticed your post to the 3Dmk11 thread.... http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8318782

Not sure what the issue is, but your physics score is well below where it should be for the OC. It should be ~17,000. Check this in Event Viewer


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Anything there?

for comparison, straight 4.7 w/ 2133 ram: 16902 http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8391637

something is up with that OC...


----------



## Jpmboy

derped.

vulcan - sleep and offset or strap 125 don't mix too well. switch to a fixed vcore for suspend/sleep.


----------



## BrettJSr72

May I Join?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Goggle Eye

No worries, as you can tell I am new to a lot of this as well,

Don't mean to keep jumping in the middle of your post. Thank you for the explanation and info. Enjoy reading the post on over clocking. Thanks

I7 4930K Batch Number 3332B080 Costa Rica?


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> derped.
> 
> vulcan - sleep and offset or strap 125 don't mix too well. switch to a fixed vcore for suspend/sleep.


Ah I see, thanks for the quick reply with this issue, you saved me potentially hours of messing around with moving voltage back from Additional Turbo to VCORE and even reverting to my previous display driver to try and fix this.

Well I guess you can't have it all with Offset, I would much rather leave my computer running for the hour or so when I take off for my walks and the gym than the ability to put it to sleep but with constant 1.408V.

It might be a minor issue when I set up Ram Disk as I hear that it can add an additional minute or two to boot-up, and putting it to sleep will no longer be an option to circumvent this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> No worries, as you can tell I am new to a lot of this as well,
> 
> Don't mean to keep jumping in the middle of your post. Thank you for the explanation and info. Enjoy reading the post on over clocking. Thanks
> 
> I7 4930K Batch Number 3332B080 Costa Rica?


No problem! Well my batch is: 3331B526, which is Costa Rica, not sure about the one above, did you try comparing it among the batch list in my previous post?


----------



## Goggle Eye

not sure about the one above, did you try comparing it among the batch list in my previous post?

Yes sir not listed it is costa Rica. Went thru the entire forum to see if could find it.

will have to wait and see when I get this thing built.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What ever happened to @LunaP?
> 
> iv'e been really lucky w/ the two kits of memory that I mixed, but i'm not asking it to do much really.
> 
> 2400mhz Cas 10 Trident X running 1866 cas 9. Still working on getting the timings down. Keeping things stable @ 2333 (strap 125) was just a PITA. I'll take the 5.0 3930k w/ 1866 9. Doesn't seem to affect my gaming performance.


thanks alot i can do this with all my rigs !

so in other news, my 290x komodos are epic, unfortunately i have some bad news !

one

3 of my 6 sli fittings leaked.... so it is on hold till i can 1 buy them and get them, 2 have time to painstakingly take them out.....

two my heatpipe on my i/o cover didnt make it, it was not glued in, idk what it is, but it is more of a rock like power. it never bubbled and i got it ,,, lets just say to hot,

overall meh it looks great with my board blocked, and the rest of everything, watercooled. i cant wait till all my sleeving gets here ! that will be a fun journey !


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> hey bud - I noticed your post to the 3Dmk11 thread.... http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8318782
> 
> Not sure what the issue is, but your physics score is well below where it should be for the OC. It should be ~17,000. Check this in Event Viewer
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anything there?
> 
> for comparison, straight 4.7 w/ 2133 ram: 16902 http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8391637
> 
> something is up with that OC...


I will have a look, i can get higher if i used fixed voltage but then it raises water temp a couple of degrees which does not help gpu when pushing hard, need to keep it <40c for best results.
Will check out event viewer though.

Oh also switched proc state back to 5% from 0% and touch wood its not blacked out yet.


----------



## friskiest

Is firestrike physics more or less the same as 3dm11 physics? As in, is it an apples to apples sort of comparison?

This is firestrike, but this is what I managed with a quick 4.6GHz oc and two titans on air.

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1993628


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Is firestrike physics more or less the same as 3dm11 physics? As in, is it an apples to apples sort of comparison?
> 
> This is firestrike, but this is what I managed with a quick 4.6GHz oc and two titans on air.
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1993628


I get 18,000 physics in 3dmark11 with a 3970x @5.3GHz

I get 19,200 physics in 3dmark FireStrike with a 3970x @5.3Ghz.

Not too much difference.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I get 18,000 physics in 3dmark11 with a 3970x @5.3GHz
> 
> I get 19,200 physics in 3dmark FireStrike with a 3970x @5.3Ghz.
> 
> Not too much difference.


I see, thanks.

Not much, but a difference nonetheless.

I'd do horrible things to get my hands on your cpu.

Horrible.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> I will have a look, i can get higher if i used fixed voltage but then it raises water temp a couple of degrees which does not help gpu when pushing hard, need to keep it <40c for best results.
> Will check out event viewer though.
> 
> *Oh also switched proc state back to 5% from 0% and touch wood its not blacked out yet*.


this I don't understand. I run all the PCs here with min proc state=0% Never have had a single issue with that... other issues, sure!









Most of my benchmarks here and at hwbot are done with offset OC, an occasional fixed vcore run, but not many. Probably why my scores are modest as they are. Basically, I kinda benchmark the rig the way I use it.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I see, thanks.
> 
> Not much, but a difference nonetheless.
> 
> I'd do horrible things to get my hands on your cpu.
> 
> Horrible.


lol...









firestrike physics is always a higher number than MK11. (Mr.T's physics scores are not quite "representative" of an average high score







)


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> this I don't understand. I run all the PCs here with min proc state=0% Never have had a single issue with that... other issues, sure!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of my benchmarks here and at hwbot are done with offset OC, an occasional fixed vcore run, but not many. Probably why my scores are modest as they are. Basically, I kinda benchmark the rig the way I use it.


Spoke to soon, needed to upload to photobucket again and guess what, BLACKOUT!!
Really don't know whats wrong, have been running numerous benchmarks at clocks upto 4.9ghz and ram even higher and not a problem, really scratching my head on this one.


----------



## cadaveca

Maybe PSU.

Also, go to stock, reflash BIOS.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Actually I should rephrase my recommendation request, I need memory that is no higher than 50mm (2") as that is the amount of clearance I have under the air cooler, the existing Corsair Vengeance Pro, with a height of 45mm fits no problem. Looking around on the net for good 4x4 memory on the RIVBE took me back here to this thread and a post by Ajay57 who SWEARS this RAM is a gift from heaven (oh and it has a height of 40mm).
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503&cm_re=G.Skill_Ripjaws_Z_16GB_%284_x_4GB%29_DDR3_RAM_2133_Memory-_-20-231-503-_-Product
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/6290
> Well Ajay, if I get this memory, be prepared for me to pester you until you give me your exact settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question, would it be possible to get this memory and move my existing 2x8 Corsair Vengeance Pro to some outer slots to use as RAM Disk or being that they are a different type is this not possible? Supposing they all have to be the same capacity, even if I pick up 4x4 of Corsair Vengance Pro I will not be able to use the existing 2x8GB? Man this sucks, wish I would've done more research before jumping on this memory, it might be somewhat difficult to sell this now if I cannot use it. Oh well, I may just eat the $140 spent, quad channel bandwidth is a no-brainer with X79, ESPECIALLY RIVBE and Ivy E.
> 1k improvement in 3DMark 11 Physics with a 3930, this may go some way in explaining why I am sitting at 14.5k but expecting to see 15.5k at 4.6GHz.
> http://www.legitreviews.com/ddr3-memory-performance-analysis-on-intel-x79_1779/3
> Edit:
> Looking at your second recommendation above, is "OOP" a bad thing lol?! The memory Ajay57 swears comes from Heaven looks like the same stuff but 2133MHz.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231586


sorry - "oop" is out of production. Those trident2400c9's are nowhere to be found. Seems to have been a rather limited run on what have turned out to be very good sticks.

So... I pulled my 2x8 hyperX 2133c11 ram and just installed that cheap(er) 1600c8,1.35V 4x4 kit in my 2700K rig I linked to earlier. 1866c9-10-10-28 [email protected] immediately. These look very promising...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> Spoke to soon, needed to upload to photobucket again and guess what, BLACKOUT!!
> Really don't know whats wrong, have been running numerous benchmarks at clocks upto 4.9ghz and ram even higher and not a problem, really scratching my head on this one.


are you using the on board wireless?


----------



## Kimir

My tridentX 2600c10 are the same as the 2400c9 if you can find them (fairly easy to be found here), just need to set the timings like the c9 and you are good to go.


----------



## vulcan78

I'm having a new issue with the USB 3.0 Ports with this motherboard, it seems that no matter what they will cut out pretty frequently. I have already downloaded and installed the newest Asmadia USB3.0 Controller driver, I uninstalled the old via control panel and then installed this one after a reboot. The ports are still cutting out very frequently.

http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=RAMPAGE%20IV%20BLACK%20EDITION&p=1&s=42&os=30&hashedid=8SLViD3WHG39nPPA

Is this a common problem or did I get a bad motherboard?

I am also experimenting with disabling "AI Charger" in AI Suite 3 to see if that does anything. I will try going back to the original Asmedia USB 3.0 driver included on the driver disc that came with the motherboard.


----------



## szeged

ive been having usb3.0 port problems on the mobo since day one, ive tried everything i can think of to get them working properly, think i just have a defective one in that regard, idk if its widespread or what but i dont want to rma the board just for that.


----------



## Errorist66

Anybody else noticed that SLI performance is almost 20% better in Valley with strap 125 vs strap 100?

USB3 on mine gives 120 MB/sec to my USB3 external 1.5TB drive.


----------



## skupples

I keep having USB issues, & flushing then re-installing drivers is not solving the issue.

I really hope I don't have to RMA this board.


----------



## szeged

yeah reinstalling hasnt done jack for me, its super annoying when it happens to my mouse/keyboard port...middle of a multiplayer game....both die on me...oh ok thats just wonderful.

i probably wont rma because when x99 release my gfs getting the 4930k and rivbe so itll be her problem rofl


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah reinstalling hasnt done jack for me, its super annoying when it happens to my mouse/keyboard port...middle of a multiplayer game....both die on me...oh ok thats just wonderful.
> 
> i probably wont rma because when x99 release my gfs getting the 4930k and rivbe so itll be her problem rofl


Even worse, the RMA will take so long that you will get the board back 1 day before X99 releases.

I know for a fact it is NOT my super high quality USB splitter box, as ALL USB ports go down, 2.0 & 3.0.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Even worse, the RMA will take so long that you will get the board back 1 day before X99 releases.
> 
> I know for a fact it is NOT my super high quality USB splitter box, as ALL USB ports go down, 2.0 & 3.0.


I remember having problems before a fresh install of win7. Front USB ports will sometimes not work. No issues since then.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I remember having problems before a fresh install of win7. Front USB ports will sometimes not work. No issues since then.


----------



## Jpmboy

Thankfully i havn't had USB issues so far. I have the usb3.0 charger off in bios. Still getthe normal 500mV charge on devices. When pushing bclk, i get a 9a bug code... Usb initialization. I think the driver is crap.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> are you using the on board wireless?


No, LAN with a 65mb connection.

I'm running a win 7/8 dual boot disk, will run scannow just incase i have corrupted it.

PSU has no probs running FSX on big clocks 1400+ and 4800+


----------



## vulcan78

Damn I wasn't expecting so many confirmations of the USB 3.0 problem. Asus or Asmedia did just release an update in that link I provided in my last post. Since having AI Charger turned off I haven't really been experiencing the cut-outs but then again I am not moving data from one drive to another either at the moment. I was experiencing frequent unpairing all day yesterday with my Wireless Sensei and I was about to body-slam it, it was so frustrating, I thought it was the mouse but now I know its the USB 3.0 ports. If you google the issue you will find that it is common with a lot of Asus motherboards. I don't know what the hell is going on over there at Asus but I hope they fix this crap. I'd MUCH rather have USB 3.0 ports that don't cut-out (as in never) than new programs and "features" (i.e. OC Panel, sure looks nice though).

And I agree, the idea of RMA'ing this thing, after spending so many hours dialing it in, is a bit ludicrous, but to be honest, that is why I spent more buying it from amazon, as I can just skip the whole RMA game and send the thing back to them for a prompt refund.

If the USB 3.0 thing persists I may actually end up doing that. It's really a big deal, my mouse, my USB sound-card, my external hard-drives have all been acting up and now I know its the USB. 3.0 ports. The mouse thing was very very frustrating, I was really about to get violent with it.

If anyone from Asus is monitoring this forum, please, make eliminating this issue the sole priority as it is not a minor inconvenience. My sound was cutting out with media, sometimes the USB sound card would just turn the volume all the way down for no reason, mouse unpairing, hard-drives hanging up half-way through moving say 30GB of data with Windows becoming unresponsive and asking "the program Explorer has become unresponsive, would you like to terminate the process" (we all know what happens if you say yes). This is really really not good, especially for a motherboard of RIVBE's purported caliber and PRICE.

PLEASE FIX THIS CRAP ASUS.


----------



## Kimir

Well there is no usb 3.0 on X79 itself, they are all thirds party, in Asus case, Asmedia.
I'm already skipping the use of the sata 3 from Asmedia, but can't really not use usb 3... I only ran into an issue once on the RIVE with usb 3, tho. I couldn't transfer file while switching to my windowed game. Everytime I switched to the game and the processor kicked in at 4.6Ghz the transfer was crashing. Since then I don't transfer file under load and I don't have issues.


----------



## szeged

I was getting ready to hulk smash my mobo last night when the usb kept cutting out on my mouse in Diablo hardcore.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

All the ports cut out?

My usb stick doesn't get recognized some times. I plug it and out and it'll finally work. Mouse and keyboard work fine. They are wireless and have adapters in two ports.

My camera gets recognized instantly in that same port that has issues with the usb stick. Maybe the USB stick is going bad.

Funny I used to be so obsessed with that pop sound upon start up and shut down. Now I could care less LoL!


----------



## szeged

They all do it but not at the same time.

I forgot about the audio pop also lol.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> They all do it but not at the same time.
> 
> I forgot about the audio pop also lol.


uninstall the asmedia drivers and disable usb3.0 in bios... still no good?


----------



## szeged

Tried that about a week ago, no dice.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> If an update is needed it will be made otherwise no.


Hello Raja,

I just notice that the tRP is bound to 15 as the maximum, however, it needs to be larger when you push DRAM freq at 3300+.
Is it possible to fix this in future BIOS release?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Tried that about a week ago, no dice.


oh man, an RMA will be bad news.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> All the ports cut out?
> 
> My usb stick doesn't get recognized some times. I plug it and out and it'll finally work. Mouse and keyboard work fine. They are wireless and have adapters in two ports.
> 
> My camera gets recognized instantly in that same port that has issues with the usb stick. Maybe the USB stick is going bad.
> 
> *Funny I used to be so obsessed with that pop sound upon start up and shut down*. Now I could care less LoL!


at first it freaked me out... was looking for smoke! Audio circuit.


----------



## cadaveca

I think Windows update or something is screwing with USB3. I have had no problems before, but last few days, my keyboard isn't powered down on shutdown any more.

At least I don't have ports dropping out...that only happens with BCLK OC.


----------



## szeged

Happens to me at stock and oc =/ oh well I just gotta live with it till September lol.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Well there is no usb 3.0 on X79 itself, they are all thirds party, in Asus case, Asmedia.
> I'm already skipping the use of the sata 3 from Asmedia, but can't really not use usb 3... I only ran into an issue once on the RIVE with usb 3, tho. I couldn't transfer file while switching to my windowed game. Everytime I switched to the game and the processor kicked in at 4.6Ghz the transfer was crashing. Since then I don't transfer file under load and I don't have issues.


So the high OC was the culprit? When it was happening on mine I had power plan on Balanced and it was no where near 4.6GHz with EIST in effect.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I was getting ready to hulk smash my mobo last night when the usb kept cutting out on my mouse in Diablo hardcore.


LOL! It is frustrating isn't it?!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> They all do it but not at the same time.
> 
> I forgot about the audio pop also lol.


What pop sound?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> oh man, an RMA will be bad news.


Yeah I agree, is uninstalling the Asmedia drivers and turning off USB 3.0 via BIOS the last resort? Will the ports revert to USB 2.0 or do you lose all of them? I was unable to get my mouse to work through the USP pass-through on my Corsair K70 keyboard so I put in the Asus resource cd and reverted to the original driver as I don't remember having the issues with that one. Pass-through works fine at the moment but I have a bad feeling the unpairing will return.

Well my memory arrived today, but the Akasa Copper heat-spreaders are still a day or so out, I am tempted to try the memory as I'm impatient but doing so necessitates removing my GPU to adjust the position of the intake fan on the air cooler to access the RAM beneath it, and depending on how tight I get the fan to sit on the memory here I may have to do this all over again when the heat-spreaders arrive. But man I really want to see if these two additional 2x8G Corsair Vengeance Pro work as they are from a different set.

Fingers crossed that not only do they work out of the box but that I can just set them to XMP and with 4.6GHz I don't have to adjust VTT and VCCSA or the timings.

Which brings me to ask, and I apologize for sounding like a PC noob, but what do the memory timings do?


----------



## szeged

Early versions of the mobo gave a loud bang noise when powering on due to the capacitors used or whatever it was, idk if newer boards are doing it still.


----------



## Jpmboy

szeged - that "snap" is the audio unit coming on. Sounds like a bigarse solenoid.









_________________

hey - doing a little experimenting today - booted @ 166 strap. Starting low (4.65GHz) to get a feel for this fixed vcore stuff







. R15 load is @ 1.328V. Any pointers for 166? anyone?
bclk skew @ -2. PCIE SKEW @ -20.



@joa3d43 ... you out there?

edit: 4.65 is rock stable with good temps (CPU PLL down to 1.725V). Working on 4.822 (29x166)

another edit:








29x166

I should try 2666 ram but I hate putting VTT near 1.2V








http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8397855 (physics)

yeah - got the aquarium chiller running... warming up here in PA.


----------



## vulcan78

Oh god, I just got the additional 2x8 sticks of RAM in and wondering why its posting in BIOS but not showing in Windows I just now discovered that Windows 7 Premium only supports 16GB of RAM, you need either Ultimate or Professional for over 16GB. Is it possible to upgrade to Ultimate without having to re-install windows?

Going to try a few stability tests and benches at 2133MHz with XMP, at least quad channel is working.

Update!!!

Picked up OVER 1K POINTS PHYSICS IN 3DMARK 11.

Quad Channel (15,297 Physics):

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8397807

Dual Channel (14,235 Physics):

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8391621

Going to do some stability tests, will report back. Very happy with quad channel!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Oh god, I just got the additional 2x8 sticks of RAM in and wondering why its posting in BIOS but not showing in Windows I just now discovered that Windows 7 Premium only supports 16GB of RAM, you need either Ultimate or Professional for over 16GB. Is it possible to upgrade to Ultimate without having to re-install windows?
> 
> Going to try a few stability tests and benches at 2133MHz with XMP, at least quad channel is working.
> 
> Update!!!
> 
> Picked up OVER 1K POINTS PHYSICS IN 3DMARK 11.
> 
> Quad Channel (15,297 Physics):
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8397807
> 
> Dual Channel (14,235 Physics):
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8391621
> 
> Going to do some stability tests, will report back. Very happy with quad channel!


yeah - x79 just doesn't like two sticks on the ram bus.







1000pts

As a general rule-of-thumb, probably best to manually enter your ram timings rather than XMP.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I want to swap Trident X kit with some Dominator Platinums. Going after looks


----------



## szeged

i wanna get some more trident x, i have some waterblocks here for 8 sticks but im just so lazy after work i havent been able to get the energy to install them for almost 2 months now rofl.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> !


1 they do not take anything from you. you chose OEM vs full, if you had spent a little more on a full license there would be a different outcome. with that yes you do not have to reinstall to my knowledge it is already on your pc, you just need to unlock it, i could be wrong ..

2 dont talk about doing anything illegal , it is against tos on ocn and a quick way to being banned fyi


----------



## SxMAC420

hi i just got a rampage iv black eddition used off amazon, one of those amazon warehouse deals. they usually work perfect for me, but i set everything up, it wont boot, im getting a debug code that says 0C wich means "Reserved for future AMI SEC error codes" what should i do.......

my build is

rampage iv black
4930k cooled by cooler master glacier 240l
8gb hyperx beast 1866
gtx 660ti
evga 750w gold psu
kingston 3k 120gb ssd
WD green 3tb HDD
phantom 820 case

ummmmm yea im kinda scared.....and the dram led is on....


----------



## vulcan78

We seem to be experimenting some technological differences!






Good news:

A glorious 32GB of mis-matched Corsair Vengeance Pro is up and humming along at 2133MHz with default VCCSA, VTT and DRAM voltage.

Reverting to Asmedia USB 3.0 driver included with Asus resource c.d.seems to have alleviated the unpairing issue and other disconnects, if you have this c.d. I recommend trying this.

Bad news:

4.6GHz is no longer stable at ~1.405V, I have literally tried everything, including upping DRAM voltage to 1.650V, VTT to 1.15, more CPU PLL, adding +2 to the timings, VCCSA Current: 130%, and everything in this basic memory overclocking guide:

http://rog.asus.com/305492014/rampage-motherboards/memory-overclocking-guide-for-rampage-iv-black-edition-beginner-to-advanced/3/

At one point in the process I included the possibility that the memory I purchased was defective, so I went in and put only the new memory in slots A1 and D1 and tried Cinebench R15 with the same settings that had previously worked at 4.6GHz. This resulted in a BSOD before the test concluded.

So far this has been in keeping with my experience with overclocking with this CPU sample, it will seem stable at some frequency and then as if sufficiently irritated it will no longer be stable at whatever that given frequency was.

I replaced the new memory modules with the originals and repeated the same bench and sure enough it would no longer hold 4.6GHz at 1.405V.

I then tried adding a little Additional Turbo Voltage, willing to see if that was the issue, it did pass Cinebench R15 but even with 1.45V it failed the second 5 minute FFT in Prime95.

This meant only one thing, I had to dial back the sacred CPU frequency.

Putting it on 4.5GHz and reverting the highly modified DRAM tweaks to default (1.5V) it passed Cinebench R15 no problem at 2133MHz and is Prime95 stable.

From here I have two options, I can try for 2400 MHz on the memory or try staggered multipliers on the CPU, say 46,46,46,45,45,45, or both. But it wont hold 46x6.

To be honest its stronger, at least synthetic bench wise, at 4.5GHz with quad channel at 2133MHz.

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8398336

Before you ask, I also tried dialing back memory frequency to 1866 and even 1600Mhz, both result in BSOD at 4.6GHz. To be honest, I don't even really know if it is the CPU or the memory at this point. I am skeptical that running 1.65V for maybe an hour cumulative damaged the memory.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yeah - x79 just doesn't like two sticks on the ram bus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1000pts
> 
> As a general rule-of-thumb, probably best to manually enter your ram timings rather than XMP.


You got a sure-fire timings recommendation to get 4.6GHz working with this memory? I don't know if anything will work, I've literally tried it all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I want to swap Trident X kit with some Dominator Platinums. Going after looks


Lol, they do look nice!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i wanna get some more trident x, i have some waterblocks here for 8 sticks but im just so lazy after work i havent been able to get the energy to install them for almost 2 months now rofl.


Damn, that is some job, do you have an air-cooler or something obstructing their installation? It's maybe a five minute affair, tops.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SxMAC420*
> 
> hi i just got a rampage iv black eddition used off amazon, one of those amazon warehouse deals. they usually work perfect for me, but i set everything up, it wont boot, im getting a debug code that says 0C wich means "Reserved for future AMI SEC error codes" what should i do.......
> 
> my build is
> 
> rampage iv black
> 4930k cooled by cooler master glacier 240l
> 8gb hyperx beast 1866
> gtx 660ti
> evga 750w gold psu
> kingston 3k 120gb ssd
> WD green 3tb HDD
> phantom 820 case
> 
> ummmmm yea im kinda scared.....and the dram led is on....


Damn dude, I don't know what to tell you as I just picked up my mobo, I bet someone on here knows what the problem is. Good thing is, you didn't buy it from ebay, amazon will take it back if all else fails. Good luck, I know how you feel.


----------



## MisterCloke1

I just recently purchased this motherboard along with an Asus X79 Deluxe, and am having trouble purchasing a cooler for both of them. I noticed while looking there appears to be both "square", "narrow", and universal 2011 coolers. When I look at both boards up close, they appear to be the "square" type, but I'd like to be sure before I make the purchase. Is there anyone that can offer any insight? In addition, I'd like to stay away from watercooling at the moment.

Thanks for your time!


----------



## HawkerAnt

Hello!

New (Australian) member here, greetings to all.

I have just rebuilt my machine with a Rampage IV Black Edition, but I can't get it to start.







Hoping the wise people here can help me out.

I used to have a liquid-cooled RIVE motherboard + i7-3930K, but due to idiocy / inattention I managed to overheat and fritz the CPU. To avoid a long story, I'll just say that I have had to ditch the motherboard and the liquid cooling (Thermaltake Pro-Water 880i) as well.

Symptoms:

Machine powers up. After a minute or so it powers down. Haven't even got to Windoze yet.
There are no indications via the Q-LED or Q-Code that anything is wrong (they just go dark).
Doesn't matter what BIOS settings (I had started messing with the settings, but after the problem almost immediately manifested itself I returned the settings to factory default).
I have observed via the EZmode screen that the CPU is straight away at 72 degrees Celcius. I have not seen it vary from this temperature in the 30-odd seconds I watch it before it decides it wants to power off.
I need to power the machine off (at the supply) and leave it for some time before it will think about re-booting.

It seems to me the motherboard is shutting the system down because it thinks it is overheating, but I struggle to believe that it can get so hot immediately after booting.

Note the i7-3930K is just cooled with the bog standard CPU fan that Intel used to supply with their processors, and it is open case at the moment.

Sorry, I can't quote the motherboard version or the BIOS version just now (I'm at work), but the motherboard was purchased last month and received this month (June 2014), so I'm assuming both are latest version or close.

Any ideas? I'm wondering if I have a dodgy motherboard.

Current configuration (worked out from the purchase history of the online store I buy components from):

Case: Thermaltake Armor+
Power Supply: 950W Corsair TX-950 ATX
Motherboard: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
Processor: i7-3930K (with standard Intel air-cooling)
Memory: 4 x 8Gb Kingston HyperX Beast 2400MHz DDR3 CL11 (cooled with 2 x Kingston HyperX fans)
Video Card: GIGABYTE R9-280X 3GB (standard cooling fans)
Drives: Samsung EVO 840 256Gb SSD (Windoze), Samsung EVO 840 512Gb SSD (games), Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD (backup)
Optical Drive: LG CH08LS10 BLURAY R/W
Keyboard: Logitech G19
Mouse: Razer Naga
Monitor: I forget... 21" 60Hz (Phillips I think)
UPS: Socomec NeTYS PR 1500Va / 1000W

Thanks for any replies, Ant.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterCloke1*
> 
> I just recently purchased this motherboard along with an Asus X79 Deluxe, and am having trouble purchasing a cooler for both of them. I noticed while looking there appears to be both "square", "narrow", and universal 2011 coolers. When I look at both boards up close, they appear to be the "square" type, but I'd like to be sure before I make the purchase. Is there anyone that can offer any insight? In addition, I'd like to stay away from watercooling at the moment.
> 
> Thanks for your time!


Phanteks PH-TC14PE all the way!!!!






http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2

Update: I don't know if its the lower ambient at night but 47,47,47,46,45 was solid at 1.395V so I am now experimenting (with technological differences) with 1.408 displayed (1.43V DMM) and 4.6x6. So far moving into third FFT Prime 95, going to dial back voltage .01V see if it survives fourth FFT.

81 C Peak CPU, half the cores 75 C as before.

Oh and Ram Disk IS THE CATS FUR. Planetside 2, 14GB on Ram Disk, is running WAY SMOOTHER and loading WAY FASTER. Loving it. Oh and I bought the official Professional upgrade, not about to play around with some virus.

Update:

Lol, I think its the ambient, this thing is Prime95 solid at 4.6GHz 1.422V DMM 65F Ambient, fourth FFT no problem, going to lock it down here and reassess if I get BSOD in applications and gaming. Might try for 1.410V. PC is Mr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde, not enough VCORE turns into too much VCORE on a whim.

Loving the Ram Disk, you guys gotta try this, don't let the synthetic SSD to RAM Disk comparison fool you, its a big difference.

Update:

4.6GHz at 1.32V displayed, 1.412V DMM Prime95 moving into 6th FFT no problem! That's it folks! Will reassess if BSOD in game and applications. This thing is a night-time champ! Tempted to try 47,47,47,46,46,46 or just 47x6!! 4x8GB 2133MHz Corsair Vengeance Pro, completed 5th FFT as I was typing this!


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Oh god, I just got the additional 2x8 sticks of RAM in and wondering why its posting in BIOS but not showing in Windows I just now discovered that Windows 7 Premium only supports 16GB of RAM, you need either Ultimate or Professional for over 16GB. Is it possible to upgrade to Ultimate without having to re-install windows?
> 
> Going to try a few stability tests and benches at 2133MHz with XMP, at least quad channel is working.
> 
> Update!!!
> 
> Picked up OVER 1K POINTS PHYSICS IN 3DMARK 11.
> 
> Quad Channel (15,297 Physics):
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8397807
> 
> Dual Channel (14,235 Physics):
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8391621
> 
> Going to do some stability tests, will report back. Very happy with quad channel!


If you got to SYSTEM you will see option to upgrade your windows to pro or ultimate

& you don't have to reinstall........


----------



## reev3r

I despise Microsoft for such reasons, no other OS requires you to upgrade because of a software implemented hardware limitation... I was furious when I could not access my 16GB of RAM in WHS11, and I would have happily purchase the server edition, but it lacks some of the basic features I specifically bought WHS for... Soooo, let me get this straight, I can't use all of my hardware, but if I upgrade then I lose features...? Who in the world is making these decisions...

Oh... Wait...

Steve Ballmer...

Thank you Apple, for earning my business with a solid business model... I have to use OS X on my server/HTPC and Windows 7 on my gaming rig... Joyous. Thankfully Apple makes their software actually work with other operating systems, while it is a pain enough to get two Windows based systems to communicate, and good luck with permission based shares.. Laughable!

Done with my rant this week... My apologies to everyone...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HawkerAnt*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> New (Australian) member here, greetings to all.
> 
> I have just rebuilt my machine with a Rampage IV Black Edition, but I can't get it to start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping the wise people here can help me out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I used to have a liquid-cooled RIVE motherboard + i7-3930K, but due to idiocy / inattention I managed to overheat and fritz the CPU. To avoid a long story, I'll just say that I have had to ditch the motherboard and the liquid cooling (Thermaltake Pro-Water 880i) as well.
> 
> Symptoms:
> 
> Machine powers up. After a minute or so it powers down. Haven't even got to Windoze yet.
> There are no indications via the Q-LED or Q-Code that anything is wrong (they just go dark).
> Doesn't matter what BIOS settings (I had started messing with the settings, but after the problem almost immediately manifested itself I returned the settings to factory default).
> I have observed via the EZmode screen that the CPU is straight away at 72 degrees Celcius. I have not seen it vary from this temperature in the 30-odd seconds I watch it before it decides it wants to power off.
> I need to power the machine off (at the supply) and leave it for some time before it will think about re-booting.
> 
> It seems to me the motherboard is shutting the system down because it thinks it is overheating, but I struggle to believe that it can get so hot immediately after booting.
> 
> Note the i7-3930K is just cooled with the bog standard CPU fan that Intel used to supply with their processors, and it is open case at the moment.
> 
> Sorry, I can't quote the motherboard version or the BIOS version just now (I'm at work), but the motherboard was purchased last month and received this month (June 2014), so I'm assuming both are latest version or close.
> 
> Any ideas? I'm wondering if I have a dodgy motherboard.
> 
> Current configuration (worked out from the purchase history of the online store I buy components from):
> 
> Case: Thermaltake Armor+
> Power Supply: 950W Corsair TX-950 ATX
> Motherboard: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
> 
> 
> *Processor: i7-3930K (with standard Intel air-cooling)*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Memory: 4 x 8Gb Kingston HyperX Beast 2400MHz DDR3 CL11 (cooled with 2 x Kingston HyperX fans)
> Video Card: GIGABYTE R9-280X 3GB (standard cooling fans)
> Drives: Samsung EVO 840 256Gb SSD (Windoze), Samsung EVO 840 512Gb SSD (games), Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD (backup)
> Optical Drive: LG CH08LS10 BLURAY R/W
> Keyboard: Logitech G19
> Mouse: Razer Naga
> Monitor: I forget... 21" 60Hz (Phillips I think)
> UPS: Socomec NeTYS PR 1500Va / 1000W
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any replies, Ant.


what exactly is "*standard intel air-cooling*" for a 3930K? Looks to me like your rig is triggering the thermal protection circuit. Remount the cooler using a good quality TIM (gelid, PK-1,2,or 3. NT-H1, etc). Do this before anything else otherwise you prematurely "age" the cpu.


----------



## alancsalt

Cleaned. No piracy, religion or politics discussion. Please check out the Terms Of Service and forum rules.

Please do not quote these posts.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I despise Microsoft for such reasons, no other OS requires you to upgrade because of a software implemented hardware limitation... I was furious when I could not access my 16GB of RAM in WHS11, and I would have happily purchase the server edition, but it lacks some of the basic features I specifically bought WHS for... Soooo, let me get this straight, I can't use all of my hardware, but if I upgrade then I lose features...? Who in the world is making these decisions...
> 
> Oh... Wait...
> 
> Steve Ballmer...
> 
> Thank you Apple, for earning my business with a solid business model... I have to use OS X on my server/HTPC and Windows 7 on my gaming rig... Joyous. Thankfully Apple makes their software actually work with other operating systems, while it is a pain enough to get two Windows based systems to communicate, and good luck with permission based shares.. Laughable!
> 
> Done with my rant this week... My apologies to everyone...


That sucks! Oh can't RIVBE load two operating systems simultaneously or something like that? I faintly remember reading that. That would be awesome to have Apple OS as my daily go to OS for everything pedestrian and Windows 7 designated primarily to gaming.

Well I paid the $90 or so simply to upgrade from Home Premium to Professional, I didn't want to play around with a virus and as the old saying goes "if it sounds to good to be true it probably is". There are a host of videos on youtube with instructions on how to upgrade Windows for free but all of them, invariably, have this in common "just download the file in the link below the video". In the video you can see that it is some program, a key generator, but I can pretty much guarantee that they come packed with malware. Who knows, Micro$oft themselves may be behind their creation, simply to create such a hassle that everyone is deterred from attempting to upgrade the free way. Was it worth it? Well I have 32GB of memory to play with and RAM Disk is far from a novelty, especially with the included software ROG RAMDisk, it seems that even with 14GB of memory allocated to Planetside 2 booting into Windows takes maybe another 15 seconds. I am not kidding. It is no where near the 1-2 minutes was expecting and that Asus warns of with their ROG RAMDisk program.

Curious to see whether or not the 14GB or so I have allocated to RAM Disk (out of 32GB) has an impact on memory performance I ran 3DMark 11 and it posted a higher score than with no RAM Disk! Talk about having your cake and eating it too!

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8400986

Oh and the Akasa low-profile solid copper heat-spreaders arrived today, VERY NICE, they have a solid, weighty feel to them as compared to the decorative aluminum ones that come with Corsair Vengeance Pro. I can't believe they were only $7 a piece. They should help keep the memory temps down considerably.

Oh and just to reiterate, 32GB of memory humming along at 2133MHz ON XMP, no voltage changes made (1.5V), this at 4.6GHz! Since picking up this board I have heard nothing but bad things about Corsair Vengeance memory, and how it is also a cardinal sin to mix two different sets of any memory, even of the same model. WELL NOT ONLY DO I HAVE TWO DIFFERENT SETS BUT ONE OF THEM WAS USED OFF OF EBAY. I believe that the memory I have is actually rather new (it isn't on the Qualified Vendor List) and that the issues experienced pertained to older versions. This new stuff works, no problem.

Here is the model number for this specific memory if anyone is interested:

Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz (black and silver, doesn't matter if youre replacing heat-spreaders): CMY16GX3M2A2133C11

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233541&cm_re=CMY16GX3M2A2133C11-_-20-233-541-_-Product


----------



## HawkerAnt

Quote:


> what exactly is "standard intel air-cooling" for a 3930K? Looks to me like your rig is triggering the thermal protection circuit. Remount the cooler using a good quality TIM (gelid, PK-1,2,or 3. NT-H1, etc). Do this before anything else otherwise you prematurely "age" the cpu.


Back in the days (years ago) Intel used to provide a CPU fan with their processor when you bought one. Not any more. The particular fan I have installed may or may not have come with the 3930K, but it happily fitted into the mounting holes (so I thought it did), and it was all I had in my box of spare bits. The footprint of the fan's plate is smaller that the CPU's back though, and this may be my problem. I'm certain the fan was mounted correctly (I used Deep Cool Z3 thermal paste).

Anyway, I've ordered one of those Thermaltake Bigwater 760 Pro liquid cooling solutions to which I'll attach my Koolance CPU water block, but the Bigwater will take a couple of weeks to get here.

By the by, I have a couple of spare 4930K processors sitting on a shelf (which is another story). I've vaguely heard that the 3930K is more resilient to voltage variations, whereas the 4930K has better thermal properties. I don't know if that's true, but is either kind of processor preferred for over-clocking?

Cheers, Ant.


----------



## gdubc

Most cpus still come with fans, albeit mediocre ones. Intel doesnt give their crap coolers with high end chips because they assume the customer should be doing one better.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HawkerAnt*
> 
> Back in the days (years ago) Intel used to provide a CPU fan with their processor when you bought one. Not any more. The particular fan I have installed may or may not have come with the 3930K, but it happily fitted into the mounting holes (so I thought it did), and it was all I had in my box of spare bits. The footprint of the fan's plate is smaller that the CPU's back though, and this may be my problem. I'm certain the fan was mounted correctly (I used Deep Cool Z3 thermal paste).
> 
> Anyway, I've ordered one of those Thermaltake Bigwater 760 Pro liquid cooling solutions to which I'll attach my Koolance CPU water block, but the Bigwater will take a couple of weeks to get here.
> 
> By the by, I have a couple of spare 4930K processors sitting on a shelf (which is another story). I've vaguely heard that the 3930K is more resilient to voltage variations, whereas the 4930K has better thermal properties. I don't know if that's true, *but is either kind of processor preferred for over-clocking*?
> 
> Cheers, Ant.


They both OC very well.. but somewhat differently. the 4930K will be quicker, but the 3930K can make up for it with higher clocks (usually). If you have a 4930K that can do 4,8 you're in great shape. 4.9 and higher are rare beasts, or brave souls pumping >1,45V in. Bin those 4930s and see which is the best.
either the SB-E or IB-E will need something better than the cooler you are using. BTW - the 2011 socket does not have holes for a HS,,, it has screw-in mounts on the LGA socket.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Most cpus still come with fans, albeit mediocre ones. Intel doesnt give their crap coolers with high end chips because *they assume the customer should be doing one better.*


^^ This. $500 or hgher CPUs deserve it!


----------



## ledzepp3

My last nerve is being stomped on by this board.

Everything was functioning perfectly, then my board goes into this sort of melt-down. It's giving me nothing but issues, especially today. As of now, I'm being fed the following three post codes : 70, 80, 34. It won't go into the BIOS, and I've quite literally done everything short of tearing down my loop which I'd love to avoid. I've used all the onboard buttons (MEM-OK, BIOS switch, Direct Key) and yet nothing is working. Prior to this my rig was running great at 4.2GHz but all of a sudden it's just refusing to boot whatsoever.

Any, I mean any help is welcome. I'm gonna sell this board and move to one that actually works if this doesn't help.

-Zepp


----------



## szeged

make sure the ln2/slow mode and all that are set to off, try to make it as factory default as possible, i remember a few people had that fix their problems.


----------



## SxMAC420

PLEASE CAN SOMEBODY HELP ME!! I JUST BUILT MY COMPUTER AND IM GETTING A ERROR CODE IN THE CORNER SAYING 0C "Reserved for future AMI SEC error codes" I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT TO DO!! ive changed things around, tried to figure out if anything is OBVIOUSLY wrong, some people have said things about it might be the storage, or sata configuration, so i only connected my SSD to the motherboard, ive never even got to install windows yet so....yea. but could i be plugging the SSD into the wrong controller, or does it matter if i use the black or the white cord??? ive gone thru the starters guide and ive tried every controller with black and white cords so i dont think thats it.

ive unplugged everything thats not absolutely nessasary from the board, no usb, no front panel, only one ssd. only 24pin, 8pin, 4pin.

now im gonna try and clr cmos. but im nervous, because ive herd different ways to do it, and if u dont do it right you can **** up the motherboard....plz. i just need help all over


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> make sure the ln2/slow mode and all that are set to off, try to make it as factory default as possible, i remember a few people had that fix their problems.


That just makes it skip the 80 code and jump straight to the 34


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> My last nerve is being stomped on by this board.
> 
> Everything was functioning perfectly, then my board goes into this sort of melt-down. It's giving me nothing but issues, especially today. As of now, I'm being fed the following three post codes : 70, 80, 34. It won't go into the BIOS, and I've quite literally done everything short of tearing down my loop which I'd love to avoid. I've used all the onboard buttons (MEM-OK, BIOS switch, Direct Key) and yet nothing is working. Prior to this my rig was running great at 4.2GHz but all of a sudden it's just refusing to boot whatsoever.
> 
> Any, I mean any help is welcome. I'm gonna sell this board and move to one that actually works if this doesn't help.
> 
> -Zepp


Last week I corrupted my BIOS as I was tweaking my settings. Switched over to BIOS #2, and everything worked fine.

Clear CMOS, if that doesn't help, Switch to BIOS 2. I'm assuming you checked for lose memory dimms.

See if that helps, if so, just flash the BIOS if not, we'll tackle it together. This BOARD was getting close to getting lit on fire, Thanks to Jpmboy, I'm loving it again.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SxMAC420*
> 
> PLEASE CAN SOMEBODY HELP ME!! I JUST BUILT MY COMPUTER AND IM GETTING A ERROR CODE IN THE CORNER SAYING 0C "Reserved for future AMI SEC error codes" I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT TO DO!! ive changed things around, tried to figure out if anything is OBVIOUSLY wrong, some people have said things about it might be the storage, or sata configuration, so i only connected my SSD to the motherboard, ive never even got to install windows yet so....yea. but could i be plugging the SSD into the wrong controller, or does it matter if i use the black or the white cord??? ive gone thru the starters guide and ive tried every controller with black and white cords so i dont think thats it.
> 
> ive unplugged everything thats not absolutely nessasary from the board, no usb, no front panel, only one ssd. only 24pin, 8pin, 4pin.
> 
> now im gonna try and clr cmos. but im nervous, because ive herd different ways to do it, and if u dont do it right you can **** up the motherboard....plz. i just need help all over


To clear CMOS, just power it of and push the button on the rear IO. that has a round arrow.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Last week I corrupted my BIOS as I was tweaking my settings. Switched over to BIOS #2, and everything worked fine.
> 
> Clear CMOS, if that doesn't help, Switch to BIOS 2. I'm assuming you checked for lose memory dimms.
> 
> See if that helps, if so, just flash the BIOS if not, we'll tackle it together. This BOARD was getting close to getting lit on fire, Thanks to Jpmboy, I'm loving it again.


I've tried to switch to the other BIOS and not even that has worked, neither has the Clear CMOS. Checked the memory dimms and they're all inserted, and made sure all the expansion devices were plugged in all the way too.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Last week I corrupted my BIOS as I was tweaking my settings. Switched over to BIOS #2, and everything worked fine.
> 
> Clear CMOS, if that doesn't help, Switch to BIOS 2. I'm assuming you checked for lose memory dimms.
> 
> See if that helps, if so, just flash the BIOS if not, we'll tackle it together. This BOARD was getting close to getting lit on fire, Thanks to Jpmboy, I'm loving it again.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> My last nerve is being stomped on by this board.
> 
> Everything was functioning perfectly, then my board goes into this sort of melt-down. It's giving me nothing but issues, especially today. As of now, I'm being fed the following three post codes : 70, 80, 34. It won't go into the BIOS, and I've quite literally done everything short of tearing down my loop which I'd love to avoid. I've used all the onboard buttons (MEM-OK, BIOS switch, Direct Key) and yet nothing is working. Prior to this my rig was running great at 4.2GHz but all of a sudden it's just refusing to boot whatsoever.
> 
> Any, I mean any help is welcome. I'm gonna sell this board and move to one that actually works if this doesn't help.
> 
> -Zepp


Sorry your having problems i,m on my second board here with a similar issue as you..i had a code 00 with boot loop and could not access the bios it was sooo frustrating! In the end the motherboard and cpu had to be replaced a few months back, i only had an oc of 4300 and around 1.296v with normal temps still don't know what caused it?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Sorry your having problems i,m on my second board here with a similar issue as you..i had a code 00 with boot loop and could not access the bios it was sooo frustrating! In the end the motherboard and cpu had to be replaced a few months back, i only had an oc of 4300 and around 1.296v with normal temps still don't know what caused it?


Well it started when I had my OC setup at 4.2 @ 1.3V and it randomly began to crash as soon as the CPU would get any load whatsoever. It corrupted W8 on my SSDs and I did a full reinstall, and now it won't boot period.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Well it started when I had my OC setup at 4.2 @ 1.3V and it randomly began to crash as soon as the CPU would get any load whatsoever. It corrupted W8 on my SSDs and I did a full reinstall, and now it won't boot period.


Was just about to ask, what was the last thing you did before it stopped working. Now did it finished installing? or did it crash half way the installation process?

If Clearing CMOS didn't do anything and switching BIOS didn't work, I would at least try flashing BIOS 1 before looking for dead components.

I would start with the easy stuff first. do you by any chance have another PC to quickly test components? Testing Ram sticks, PSU, and HDD would be great.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Was just about to ask, what was the last thing you did before it stopped working. Now did it finished installing? or did it crash half way the installation process?
> 
> If Clearing CMOS didn't do anything and switching BIOS didn't work, I would at least try flashing BIOS 1 before looking for dead components.
> 
> I would start with the easy stuff first. do you by any chance have another PC to quickly test components? Testing Ram sticks, PSU, and HDD would be great.


It finished installing, oh yeah. I got into Windows without a problem. May sounds stupid... but I haven't really ever flashed a BIOS, and what I've seen you need to be in the BIOS to do it. I've already got a BIOS loaded onto a flash drive, so that's not a problem. I just want a working rig for once


----------



## HawkerAnt

Quote:


> They both OC very well.. but somewhat differently. the 4930K will be quicker, but the 3930K can make up for it with higher clocks (usually). If you have a 4930K that can do 4,8 you're in great shape. 4.9 and higher are rare beasts, or brave souls pumping >1,45V in. Bin those 4930s and see which is the best.
> either the SB-E or IB-E will need something better than the cooler you are using. BTW - the 2011 socket does not have holes for a HS,,, it has screw-in mounts on the LGA socket.


Thank-you for reply. Pretty much as I expected re: 3930K vs 4930K.

I'm trying to source a water block kit for the motherboard (EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE) but there are apparently zero in Australia and I've yet to find an international source that will take Visa. Looks like I'll have to create a Paypal account. More news when all the proper bits arrive.

Regards, Ant.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Okay guys, maybe some of you can help me. I received my Asus RIVBE today and I have some starting difficulties.

I get four-six different BSOD's on a new motherboard with 4x 4GB RAM sticks (which worked great on Z87 and Z77, all four of them), the rest of the system is a i7-3930K (bought used) and 1x SanDisk Ultra Plus 256 GB SSD with Windows 7 Pro 64-bit preinstalled (win 7 installed on Z87 motherboard). Q-Code reads "AA" and only the Bios1_LED is lightning.

In "normal mode" I get the 0x0000007E after about 1 minute, in "safe mode" I get 0x0000003B, I also got a 0x0000001D and 0x000000135 another time. The 0x0000003B and the 0x000000135 is possible to fix with a "hotfix" from Microsoft from what I can see on the internet.

I have tried all four memory-dimms in the Dimm_d1 slot and I get the BSOD 0x0000007E every time. I also swapped my GPUs in slot one and in slot two on the motherboard and the same thing as the memory. I also tried switching the SSD to a HDD with the same operating system which also failed. When I put Memtest86+ on a USB I just get the message "Remove all media disks and restart" which would not work either. As far as I know it do not get any BSODs in BIOS. I have done nothing with the bios, everything is running on default.

My CPU temperature is insane, I have a Hyper 212 with Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste (have used this ALOT on my Z77 and Z87 builds) and I still get 60 degrees Celsius at IDLE. I used a little more thermal compound on the X79 than the Z77 just because of bigger surface area. I have reseated the CPU and there was none bent CPU-pins in the socket, IT SHOULD HAVE WORKED!

What I have left to do: Updating the bios on the motherboard (in case it is unstable as my Asus VI Gene Z87 was) and installing a new operating system.

The computer does POST and everything seems to work well until "windows explorer has stopped working" (as well as any other program I try to start) it happens after 30-60 seconds, it also BSOD's in Safe Mode .... if the bios update or installing Windows 7 on a new disk fails this will be RMA for me ....


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay guys, maybe some of you can help me. I received my Asus RIVBE today and I have some starting difficulties.
> 
> I get four-six different BSOD's on a new motherboard with 4x 4GB RAM sticks (which worked great on Z87 and Z77, all four of them), the rest of the system is a i7-3930K (bought used) and 1x SanDisk Ultra Plus 256 GB SSD with Windows 7 Pro 64-bit preinstalled (win 7 installed on Z87 motherboard). Q-Code reads "AA" and only the Bios1_LED is lightning.
> 
> In "normal mode" I get the 0x0000007E after about 1 minute, in "safe mode" I get 0x0000003B, I also got a 0x0000001D and 0x000000135 another time. The 0x0000003B and the 0x000000135 is possible to fix with a "hotfix" from Microsoft from what I can see on the internet.
> 
> I have tried all four memory-dimms in the Dimm_d1 slot and I get the BSOD 0x0000007E every time. I also swapped my GPUs in slot one and in slot two on the motherboard and the same thing as the memory. I also tried switching the SSD to a HDD with the same operating system which also failed. When I put Memtest86+ on a USB I just get the message "Remove all media disks and restart" which would not work either. As far as I know it do not get any BSODs in BIOS. I have done nothing with the bios, everything is running on default.
> 
> My CPU temperature is insane, I have a Hyper 212 with Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste (have used this ALOT on my Z77 and Z87 builds) and I still get 60 degrees Celsius at IDLE. I used a little more thermal compound on the X79 than the Z77 just because of bigger surface area. I have reseated the CPU and there was none bent CPU-pins in the socket, IT SHOULD HAVE WORKED!
> 
> What I have left to do: Updating the bios on the motherboard (in case it is unstable as my Asus VI Gene Z87 was) and installing a new operating system.
> 
> The computer does POST and everything seems to work well until "windows explorer has stopped working" (as well as any other program I try to start) it happens after 30-60 seconds, it also BSOD's in Safe Mode .... if the bios update or installing Windows 7 on a new disk fails this will be RMA for me ....


Testing on old OS is not a good idea. I've had similar issues moving OS form X79 to Z87/Z97/Z77 and vice-versa.

Hyper212 is not a decent cooler for this platform, BTW. $650 CPU, $30 cooler. OH boy.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay guys, maybe some of you can help me. I received my Asus RIVBE today and I have some starting difficulties.
> 
> I get four-six different BSOD's on a new motherboard with 4x 4GB RAM sticks (which worked great on Z87 and Z77, all four of them), the rest of the system is a i7-3930K (bought used) and 1x SanDisk Ultra Plus 256 GB SSD with Windows 7 Pro 64-bit preinstalled (win 7 installed on Z87 motherboard). Q-Code reads "AA" and only the Bios1_LED is lightning.
> 
> In "normal mode" I get the 0x0000007E after about 1 minute, in "safe mode" I get 0x0000003B, I also got a 0x0000001D and 0x000000135 another time. The 0x0000003B and the 0x000000135 is possible to fix with a "hotfix" from Microsoft from what I can see on the internet.
> 
> I have tried all four memory-dimms in the Dimm_d1 slot and I get the BSOD 0x0000007E every time. I also swapped my GPUs in slot one and in slot two on the motherboard and the same thing as the memory. I also tried switching the SSD to a HDD with the same operating system which also failed. When I put Memtest86+ on a USB I just get the message "Remove all media disks and restart" which would not work either. As far as I know it do not get any BSODs in BIOS. I have done nothing with the bios, everything is running on default.
> 
> My CPU temperature is insane, I have a Hyper 212 with Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste (have used this ALOT on my Z77 and Z87 builds) and I still get 60 degrees Celsius at IDLE. I used a little more thermal compound on the X79 than the Z77 just because of bigger surface area. I have reseated the CPU and there was none bent CPU-pins in the socket, IT SHOULD HAVE WORKED!
> 
> What I have left to do: Updating the bios on the motherboard (in case it is unstable as my Asus VI Gene Z87 was) and installing a new operating system.
> 
> The computer does POST and everything seems to work well until "windows explorer has stopped working" (as well as any other program I try to start) it happens after 30-60 seconds, it also BSOD's in Safe Mode .... if the bios update or installing Windows 7 on a new disk fails this will be RMA for me ....


As for Temps @ Idle should be around the low 30's depending on what kinda fans you have and the Temps in your House as well!!

Would look at some other CPU COOLER and some decent cooling through the PC Case if your using one there. As for OS always do a fresh clean install to stop so many problems, and some RAM which you can use on the Z77 + Z87 can cause problems if its not a proper 4 x 4 Quad set!! It has to be for the X79 Platform to be able to work at its best, the QVL LIST in your HANDBOOK will help and point the way.

Also some TIM PASTE will conduct Electricity so applying to much can cause short outs around the CPU socket area, so if you decide to replace your CPU Cooler just check the TIM when you take the unit off!

If your still having problems please come back to this thread for more advice!!

Best of luck,

AJ.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Testing on old OS is not a good idea. I've had similar issues moving OS form X79 to Z87/Z97/Z77 and vice-versa.
> 
> Hyper212 is not a decent cooler for this platform, BTW. $650 CPU, $30 cooler. OH boy.


I have water cooling, but I need a case first. The Hyper212 is just for testing that things actually work before going with everything under water. Still at 60 degree IDLE it should be okay to run more than 1 minute and 30 seconds before BSOD ... which have nothing to do with temperatures.

I updated the BIOS to 0602 from 0507, still BSOD.

I will try to reinstall Windows 7 now.

I was just in safe mode in 30 minutes so it should be stable.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay guys, maybe some of you can help me. I received my Asus RIVBE today and I have some starting difficulties.
> I get four-six different BSOD's on a new motherboard with 4x 4GB RAM sticks (which worked great on Z87 and Z77, all four of them), the rest of the system is a i7-3930K (bought used) and 1x SanDisk Ultra Plus 256 GB SSD with Windows 7 Pro 64-bit preinstalled (win 7 installed on Z87 motherboard). Q-Code reads "AA" and only the Bios1_LED is lightning.
> In "normal mode" I get the 0x0000007E after about 1 minute, in "safe mode" I get 0x0000003B, I also got a 0x0000001D and 0x000000135 another time. The 0x0000003B and the 0x000000135 is possible to fix with a "hotfix" from Microsoft from what I can see on the internet.
> I have tried all four memory-dimms in the Dimm_d1 slot and I get the BSOD 0x0000007E every time. I also swapped my GPUs in slot one and in slot two on the motherboard and the same thing as the memory. I also tried switching the SSD to a HDD with the same operating system which also failed. When I put Memtest86+ on a USB I just get the message "Remove all media disks and restart" which would not work either. As far as I know it do not get any BSODs in BIOS. I have done nothing with the bios, everything is running on default.
> *My CPU temperature is insane*, I have a Hyper 212 with Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste (have used this ALOT on my Z77 and Z87 builds) and *I still get 60 degrees Celsius at IDLE*. I used a little more thermal compound on the X79 than the Z77 just because of bigger surface area. I have reseated the CPU and there was none bent CPU-pins in the socket, IT SHOULD HAVE WORKED!
> What I have left to do: Updating the bios on the motherboard (in case it is unstable as my Asus VI Gene Z87 was) and installing a new operating system.
> The computer does POST and everything seems to work well until "windows explorer has stopped working" (as well as any other program I try to start) it happens after 30-60 seconds, it also BSOD's in Safe Mode .... if the bios update or installing Windows 7 on a new disk fails this will be RMA for me ....


*you need to address the cooler before doing anything else. 60C at idle is basically what no heatsink looks like*.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Testing on old OS is not a good idea. I've had similar issues moving OS form X79 to Z87/Z97/Z77 and vice-versa.
> 
> *Hyper212 is not a decent cooler for this platform, BTW. $650 CPU, $30 cooler. OH boy*.


^^ This !!! Crazy how folks go cheap on the cooler for a 2011 CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> As for Temps @ Idle should be around the low 30's depending on what kinda fans you have and the Temps in your House as well!!
> Would look at some other CPU COOLER and some decent cooling through the PC Case if your using one there. As for OS always do a fresh clean install to stop so many problems, and some RAM which you can use on the Z77 + Z87 can cause problems if its not a proper 4 x 4 Quad set!! It has to be for the X79 Platform to be able to work at its best, the QVL LIST in your HANDBOOK will help and point the way.
> Also some TIM PASTE will conduct Electricity so applying to much can cause short outs around the CPU socket area, so if you decide to replace your CPU Cooler just check the TIM when you take the unit off!
> If your still having problems please come back to this thread for more advice!!
> Best of luck,
> AJ.


if he could open event viewer, it may show critical event = thermal protection module


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> As for Temps @ Idle should be around the low 30's depending on what kinda fans you have and the Temps in your House as well!!
> 
> Would look at some other CPU COOLER and some decent cooling through the PC Case if your using one there. As for OS always do a fresh clean install to stop so many problems, and some RAM which you can use on the Z77 + Z87 can cause problems if its not a proper 4 x 4 Quad set!! It has to be for the X79 Platform to be able to work at its best, the QVL LIST in your HANDBOOK will help and point the way.
> 
> Also some TIM PASTE will conduct Electricity so applying to much can cause short outs around the CPU socket area, so if you decide to replace your CPU Cooler just check the TIM when you take the unit off!
> 
> If your still having problems please come back to this thread for more advice!!
> 
> Best of luck,
> 
> AJ.


I am well aware of what the idle temperatures should be, but it is hot as heck in my house (28 degree celsius).

I actually believe that my memory is quad-channel (Crucial BallistiX Elite 1866 Mhz 4x 4GB)

I have EK-Supremacy for water cooling the CPU.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have water cooling, but I need a case first. The Hyper212 is just for testing that things actually work before going with everything under water. Still at 60 degree IDLE it should be okay to run more than 1 minute and 30 seconds before BSOD ... which have nothing to do with temperatures.
> 
> I updated the BIOS to 0602 from 0507, still BSOD.
> 
> I will try to reinstall Windows 7 now.
> 
> I was just in safe mode in 30 minutes so it should be stable.


Yeah, what you describe, to me, is bad OS. Intel MEI driver and chipset drivers for these platforms are slightly different. I wish just swapping OS was possible, since that's make my life so much simpler doing reviews, but alas, I must re-install OS with every product.

If you go back in this thread and read Raja's posts, he even mentioned that ME version in BIOS and ME driver conflicts can happen too, so it is ALWAYS best to try fresh OS for stability testing purposes.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, what you describe, to me, is bad OS. Intel MEI driver and chipset drivers for these platforms are slightly different. I wish just swapping OS was possible, since that's make my life so much simpler doing reviews, but alas, I must re-install OS with every product.
> 
> If you go back in this thread and read Raja's posts, he even mentioned that ME version in BIOS and ME driver conflicts can happen too, so it is ALWAYS best to try fresh OS for stability testing purposes.


Okay, I got to the installing windows screen then it BSOD's this:

"DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL"
STOP: 0x000000D1
*** USBPORT.SYS - Address FFFFF8800202DF57 base at ....., DateStamp 4a5bcc07

This is not normal, this is a USB stick with Windows 7 and I try to install it on a SSD disk (which is functional).


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, I got to the installing windows screen then it BSOD's this:
> 
> "DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL"
> STOP: 0x000000D1
> *** USBPORT.SYS - Address FFFFF8800202DF57 base at ....., DateStamp 4a5bcc07
> 
> This is not normal, this is a USB stick with Windows 7 and I try to install it on a SSD disk (which is functional).


Which SSD? Some SSDs do not work right with newer UEFI boards.

OH, wait you said :

1x SanDisk Ultra Plus 256 GB SSD

I am running windows8, but I do not remember having any issues with OS install. Interesting problem, this one.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Which SSD? Some SSDs do not work right with newer UEFI boards.
> 
> OH, wait you said :
> 
> 1x SanDisk Ultra Plus 256 GB SSD
> 
> I am running windows8, but I do not remember having any issues with OS install. Interesting problem, this one.


I guess I only have dual channel memory, but I talked to a support-guy at a Norwegian site (Komplett.no) which said that I could use dual-channel memory with the X79 motherboard, but that I would not utilize it to the fullest. I was planning on doing the memory-upgrade later down the road.

I can try with a HDD too ... but I do not think it make much of a difference because I am getting BSOD's every other minute after the "Windows 7 startup screen" appear ... the special thing is that when I clean my SSD and HDD I go into safe mode on the Asus RIVBE and it works great for a long time. That is why I think it is a little weird that the OS do not work in "normal mode" even with the small differences in software of the Z77/Z87 and X79. You see what I mean?

Just to be on the safe side, these BSOD's cannot appear with high CPU temperatures?

I do not see another way than RMA the board now, I mean I can't even install Windows 7 ... To be honest I am a little conflicted on switching to X79 after this, I have been troubleshooting this board in seven hours now ...


----------



## cadaveca

3B BSOD can be overheating, yep.

Safe mode = no drivers. Kind of makes sense that it works. You might actually have a couple of problems here ,rather than just one.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 3B BSOD can be overheating, yep.
> 
> Safe mode = no drivers. Kind of makes sense that it works. You might actually have a couple of problems here ,rather than just one.


Yes, I guess, then I can try to setup the water cooling tomorrow to see if that is the problem here ... I used "Memory Diagnostics" from windows and I did two passes and it did not find any faults with the memory.

When you try to boot into an "old" OS, what do you usually experience? Just so I know what to look for when I do water tomorrow. And should the system boot and work with dual-channel memory?


----------



## cadaveca

It depends. It is usually some sort of driver conflict from the older install that causes problems. Management Engine driver conflicts can happen too, since I switch brands every time.

I have extra drives and such, so testing is no big deal to me, and OS install from USB takes very little time. I have a slave drive with all my usual testing apps and I run through those once OS install is in place. I test most common stability-testing tools.. I'm the sort of guy that has to pass every one of them, and can't use just one.


----------



## ledzepp3

Since I'm willing to do anything before I tear the loop down, should I try to get ahold of a new set of BIOS chips?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Since I'm willing to do anything before I tear the loop down, should I try to get ahold of a new set of BIOS chips?


Just wanted to throw in here that I feel for ya. I had to do just that about a month after I finished my build/loop. My system stopped posting altogether and I determined it was due to a faulty motherboard -- had to drain the loop, break down the entire system, pull out the motherboard & RMA. Fwiw, breaking down the loop/system and later reassembling it, while a slight PITA, isn't nearly as difficult as the initial build. Even if you have to go that far, it won't be as bad as you think -- just leave the tubing connected to the blocks as much as possible so you only have to reconnect a few fittings to get the loop reassembled (less leak testing etc). Good luck!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It depends. It is usually some sort of driver conflict from the older install that causes problems. Management Engine driver conflicts can happen too, since I switch brands every time.
> 
> I have extra drives and such, so testing is no big deal to me, and OS install from USB takes very little time. I have a slave drive with all my usual testing apps and I run through those once OS install is in place. I test most common stability-testing tools.. I'm the sort of guy that has to pass every one of them, and can't use just one.


Okay, so I have pretty much setup my water cooling system now. In bios I am idling on 30 degrees celsius. I tried to install Windows 7 from USB and I got 0x0000003B BSOD, this is NOT overheating now .... I am really wondering on what this is .... X79 seems like a hassle to me ...

My checklist:

RAM: OKAY
HDD: OKAY
SSD: OKAY
PSU: OKAY
TEMPERATURE CPU: OKAY
I have not "checked" the CPU, but I have owned a destroyed CPU and then the system won't boot ... at least the i7-4770K didn't. I do not care for booting into the "old" OS, or I can try ... but ....


----------



## cadaveca

Yap, look at settings for CPU/RAM. I'd try setting CPU Current setting to 180%. Also, mis-matched memory kits can have problems, you may want to try just two sticks or something here.

Also, make sure to install from USB 2.0 port. if you had used USB3 port...well...that's windows for ya.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yap, look at settings for CPU/RAM. I'd try setting CPU Current setting to 180%. Also, mis-matched memory kits can have problems, you may want to try just two sticks or something here.
> 
> Also, make sure to install from USB 2.0 port. if you had used USB3 port...well...that's windows for ya.


Yes, I can try just two sticks, but I mean I got BSOD with one stick too ....

CPU Current to 180%? In BIOS? And why? What does it do?

I have sent an mail for RMA of the card, I do not see a light in the end of this tunnel ....


----------



## cadaveca

Needing the VRM setting to 180% is just something many users have needed at some point, even when running stock. Not sure why exactly. What I can tell you is that I cannot run with 100% and "regular" loadline setting, myself. One BIOS was supposed to default t o140% as a fix, if I recall correctly, but for some users, this is not high enough.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Needing the VRM setting to 180% is just something many users have needed at some point, even when running stock. Not sure why exactly. What I can tell you is that I cannot run with 100% and "regular" loadline setting, myself. One BIOS was supposed to default t o140% as a fix, if I recall correctly, but for some users, this is not high enough.


I have gotten to "Expanding Windows Files (30 %) and still working now (two memory sticks in) and the window to my room open (motherboard and ram get's crazy hot).
When I got the 3B BSOD it was only at 10%, but it seems to be stuck at 30% so I do not know if that is any better though.

You have been to big help, I am sure I need more help too. But I got to say, THANKS A LOT!


----------



## cadaveca

NP, for realz, I'm learning too. Should I run into this, I'll know what to do exactly, once you figure it all out.

I'd try going back to 4 sticks, myself. I mean, that's how you intend to run it, so work on it like that, rather than getting windows set up with less ram(it notices on install, set pagefile, etc accordingly)


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> NP, for realz, I'm learning too. Should I run into this, I'll know what to do exactly, once you figure it all out.
> 
> I'd try going back to 4 sticks, myself. I mean, that's how you intend to run it, so work on it like that, rather than getting windows set up with less ram(it notices on install, set pagefile, etc accordingly)


I will do that if I actually get the OS installed, but it has been stuck at 30 % for 20 minutes, which should take 2 minutes .... then I ran over this: (http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/26134-63-installing-windows-stuck-expanding-windows-files) So I might want to try to put my SSD in a different SATA-connection.

Which SATA-connection is SATA3 here?


----------



## cadaveca

Yeah, if you are on ASMedia port, and haven't installed F6 driver, this can happen.

SATA 6 Gb/s is bottom three pairs, bottom two pairs are ASMedia, middle pair is Intel SATA3.

So, USB stick in USB 2.0 port, and SSD plugged into middle SATA port is needed, yep. Windows8...man, none of this matters.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, if you are on ASMedia port, and haven't installed F6 driver, this can happen.
> 
> SATA 6 Gb/s is bottom three pairs, bottom two pairs are ASMedia, middle pair is Intel SATA3.
> 
> So, USB stick in USB 2.0 port, and SSD plugged into middle SATA port is needed, yep. Windows8...man, none of this matters.


This is more complicated than learning to drive a car ... Is there a guide somewhere how to do this? If one hit the right connections the first time it is pure luck ...

On the other side, USB stick in USB 2.0 and the SATA-cable in middle SATA6G_12 and I get 0x000000D1 BSOD
USB stick in USB 2.0 and the SATA-cable in SATA3G_34 I get 0x000000D1 and 0x0000000A BSOD
USB stick in USB 2.0 and the SATA-cable in SATA6G_E12 I get stuck in Expanding, but no BSOD

This is making me crazy and I think I have to stay at Z77 where I never have been running into this much hassle just to get an OS installed.


----------



## ledzepp3

Well my issue sorted itself out. Now it boots, but since Windows got corrupted and is incapable of being repaired/refreshed I now have to do a full reinstall and buy another license which isn't cheap









-Zepp


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Well my issue sorted itself out. Now it boots, but since Windows got corrupted and is incapable of being repaired/refreshed I now have to do a full reinstall and buy another license which isn't cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


why would you have to buy a new License?


----------



## Kimir

Because windows license can be activate a certain amount of time (depends on the kind of license tho). That's why I use Advanced Tokens Manager to save my windows/office license.
And now, even better, I make a backup image of my os and game ssd. So if anything get corrupted I can restore to my previous clean state.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> why would you have to buy a new License?


I have no idea, it's repeatedly telling me I need a new code and at this point in time, I don't wanna wrestle with it


----------



## Kimir

Have you tried to activate by phone?


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Have you tried to activate by phone?


This as i have used my OS on 3 different Platforms just call them and follow the instructions, also when you have completed a new install of Windows make a RESTORE POINT!!!
















So if anything goes bad you can always go back and start again.

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> why would you have to buy a new License?


I am an idiot, my own post


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Because windows license can be activate a certain amount of time (depends on the kind of license tho). That's why I use Advanced Tokens Manager to save my windows/office license.
> And now, even better, I make a backup image of my os and game ssd. So if anything get corrupted I can restore to my previous clean state.


I know that


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> I am an idiot, my own post


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I have no idea, it's repeatedly telling me I need a new code and at this point in time, I don't wanna wrestle with it


Here try this and then register it again and if it doesn't work call then using the number that windows gives you a 855 number.

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_8-windows_install/windows-8-pro-product-key-doesnt-work/a08e8a9f-db56-480a-8ee6-1310f9907bbd


----------



## ledzepp3

It's all fixed now, we're good







how would I go about setting up my Raidr PCI SSD for extra storage on my board? The CSM parameters need to be changed, and I'm not exactly sure which ones to change.


----------



## RSharpe

So how is Bios 0602? I've been running my board with a 4930K since November on the 0403 without any real problems, but was wonder if I could clock higher with more stability with the new bios.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> So how is Bios 0602? I've been running my board with a 4930K since November on the 0403 without any real problems, but was wonder if I could clock higher with more stability with the new bios.


I, for one, did not notice a great benefit with the "upgrade".


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Okay, the last thing I tried was to install Windows 7 on a HDD and it gave me D1 BSOD, I am sending this board back on Tuesday.

I ordered an Asus Rampage IV Gene instead and I hope that board will be better than the RIVBE (just trouble for me), now it is teardown of watercooling and the rest of the system and back to Z77.

Can any of these BSOD's come because of destroyed CPU? (The CPU is bought used and I am using dual channel memory)
0x000000D1/D1, 0x000000135, 0x0000003B


----------



## RSharpe

May
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, the last thing I tried was to install Windows 7 on a HDD and it gave me D1 BSOD, I am sending this board back on Tuesday.
> 
> I ordered an Asus Rampage IV Gene instead and I hope that board will be better than the RIVBE (just trouble for me), now it is teardown of watercooling and the rest of the system and back to Z77.
> 
> Can any of these BSOD's come because of destroyed CPU? (The CPU is bought used and I am using dual channel memory)
> 0x000000D1/D1, 0x000000135, 0x0000003B


Maybe, but this board is finicky with voltages and RAM kits running at high clocks. Many people have been able to fix BSODs from tweaking their voltages.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSharpe*
> 
> May
> Maybe, but this board is finicky with voltages and RAM kits running at high clocks. Many people have been able to fix BSODs from tweaking their voltages.


Okay, I did not think it would be this hard to install the OS on the X79 platform .... so whay you are saying is that this is normal? That sounds a little weird to me, I have had five Z77/Z87 motherboard/CPU's the last two years and I have never had to tweak anything to get the OS installed. Obviosly the X79 is a different story.

The RAM-problems I can see, but should it not be operating pretty well at stock speeds with stock voltages on everything, I mean I am running the RAM at 1333 Mhz for stability and the CPU at 3,2 Ghz.

I have already teared the RIVBE totally down and setup my Z77 system again.

Shouldn't the User Manual have some kind of a guide for this kind of motherboard when it is not straight forward like Z87?


----------



## Kimir

That's not true, x79 isn't as problematic as that, you did get into much trouble but that's not the majority.
Doa can happen and that's unfortunate. The hard part is to know what hardware is defective is there is any.


----------



## swddeluxx

Hi guys








Im very happy with my new Board


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That's not true, x79 isn't as problematic as that, you did get into much trouble but that's not the majority.
> Doa can happen and that's unfortunate. The hard part is to know what hardware is defective is there is any.


Anyway, if I have been "unlucky" with my board I am going for the Asus Rampage IV Gene instead for 375 USD, this board will be returned because I can not get it to work.

But after using Asus Sabertooth Z77, 2x Asus Maximus VI Gene Z87 and one Asus Maximus V Formula Z77 with i5-3570K, i7-3770K and i7-4770K with no problems, you understand that I am a little worried when my first X79 board arrive and I have nothing but problems? Even if the RAM is dual channel it should be able to be turned on for 10 minutes. See my point?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anyway, if I have been "unlucky" with my board I am going for the Asus Rampage IV Gene instead for 375 USD, this board will be returned because I can not get it to work.
> 
> But after using Asus Sabertooth Z77, 2x Asus Maximus VI Gene Z87 and one Asus Maximus V Formula Z77 with i5-3570K, i7-3770K and i7-4770K with no problems, you understand that I am a little worried when my first X79 board arrive and I have nothing but problems? Even if the RAM is dual channel it should be able to be turned on for 10 minutes. See my point?


I do see your point, but I'm sure it's not related to x79 platform at all.
I've two rampage iv extreme, one with a 3930k and 32Go of Ram (8x4Go) and the other with 4930k and 16Go (4x4).
I didn't get any issues at stock to setup Windows and other software/updates. I didn't installed Windows on the second rig as I cloned the other one drive, had to cleanup drivers and re-activate Windows/office and other things and that's it. After a few hours I was already benching and OCing.
I had not much problem with the clone because it was the same platform, and same motherboard.
I get your frustration, dealing with reluctant hardware is a pita.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I do see your point, but I'm sure it's not related to x79 platform at all.
> I've two rampage iv extreme, one with a 3930k and 32Go of Ram (8x4Go) and the other with 4930k and 16Go (4x4).
> I didn't get any issues at stock to setup Windows and other software/updates. I didn't installed Windows on the second rig as I cloned the other one drive, had to cleanup drivers and re-activate Windows/office and other things and that's it. After a few hours I was already benching and OCing.
> I had not much problem with the clone because it was the same platform, and same motherboard.
> I get your frustration, dealing with reluctant hardware is a pita.


I have to hope that the Asus Rampage IV Gene is better ....

Am I understandig this right, if I buy two two-channel memory kits and puts it into the Rampage Black Edition then it works as quad channel memory, and on the Z77 it works as dual channel memory even if I have four memory sticks? This is very confusing for me ... Corsair Dominator Platinum (which states to be quad channel) will cost me 800 USD, is that quad channel memory kit then?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have to hope that the Asus Rampage IV Gene is better ....
> 
> Am I understandig this right, if I buy two two-channel memory kits and puts it into the Rampage Black Edition then it works as quad channel memory, and on the Z77 it works as dual channel memory even if I have four memory sticks? This is very confusing for me ... Corsair Dominator Platinum (which states to be quad channel) will cost me 800 USD, is that quad channel memory kit then?


z77 is a dual channel ram bus. x79 is quad channel and performs best with the appropriate 4 dimm slots filled. Best to buy a quad channel kit (4 matched sticks) than 2 2-stick kits. The later can work just fine, but in your case whhy risk one more thing to trouble shoot. MOst of the bsods you are getting are cpu-based. You might want to test that "used" cpu in another board before RMA.

Did you power off (completely - pull the plug) the plug in, reset the bios (clrcmos) post and set the necessary bios parameters (boot priorities, etc), restart and then insert your windows disk to load a fresh copy?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have to hope that the Asus Rampage IV Gene is better ....
> 
> Am I understandig this right, if I buy two two-channel memory kits and puts it into the Rampage Black Edition then it works as quad channel memory, and on the Z77 it works as dual channel memory even if I have four memory sticks? This is very confusing for me ... Corsair Dominator Platinum (which states to be quad channel) will cost me 800 USD, is that quad channel memory kit then?


x79( Rampage IV Gene) is quad , triple, dual, or single channel. 4 sticks of ram in the appropriate slots will go into quad channel configuration

Z77 ( Maximus V Gene) is single or dual channel only. 2 sticks in the appropriate slots will go into dual channel configuration.

Yes can be confusing.

Use cpuz to see what your ram in running in:


----------



## Gualichu04

Would there be any bottle neck issues using two r9 290x in crossfire in the top pci-e and 2nd one?


----------



## Shadowarez

I run my 680GTX in slot 1-3 no issues and the patch makes Em run in Gen 3.0 pci-e.


----------



## Gualichu04

Cool. I was makign sure since the r9 290x dont use a crossfire link and crossfire via the pci-e


----------



## b0x3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Would there be any bottle neck issues using two r9 290x in crossfire in the top pci-e and 2nd one?


the second one in pci-e slot #2 will run at 8x instead of 16x - you need them in slots #1 and #3 for both to run at 16x


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0x3d*
> 
> the second one in pci-e slot #2 will run at 8x instead of 16x - you need them in slots #1 and #3 for both to run at 16x


I know but, that is not possible since i will be using the auqacomptuer kryo connect for crossfire water cooling and it is only 3 slots max away from the 2nd gpu when using the back plates. Just making sure x8 wil not bottle neck both cards sicne the crossfire is done through pci-e/. It is a pretty poor design to have atop pci-e at x8 and the one below it x16


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> z77 is a dual channel ram bus. x79 is quad channel and performs best with the appropriate 4 dimm slots filled. Best to buy a quad channel kit (4 matched sticks) than 2 2-stick kits. The later can work just fine, but in your case whhy risk one more thing to trouble shoot. MOst of the bsods you are getting are cpu-based. You might want to test that "used" cpu in another board before RMA.
> 
> Did you power off (completely - pull the plug) the plug in, reset the bios (clrcmos) post and set the necessary bios parameters (boot priorities, etc), restart and then insert your windows disk to load a fresh copy?


I see what you say about dual and quad channel differences on the Z77 and X79, but it does not answer what I was wondering about. The "used" CPU can very well be somewhat destroyed and I can not test it in another board (I do not know anybody with X79 and the RIVBE is the only X79 board I own).

I did that power off completely thing, it did not work either, still a lot of BSOD's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> x79( Rampage IV Gene) is quad , triple, dual, or single channel. 4 sticks of ram in the appropriate slots will go into quad channel configuration
> 
> Z77 ( Maximus V Gene) is single or dual channel only. 2 sticks in the appropriate slots will go into dual channel configuration.
> 
> Yes can be confusing.
> 
> Use cpuz to see what your ram in running in:


Ah, now I see, that explained what I wondered about the ram.

If I get powered on to the Rampage IV Gene I will check that out.









If I get the same BSOD's on the RIVG I will contact the seller of the CPU and see what he says. Buying a new CPU this close to X99 release is not reasonable, then I just might get the new X99 motherboard, cpu and ram (if I need new ram anyways). My Z77 system will keep good till then with a new GPU.


----------



## 4lek

Just to be sure: can you confirm this mobo supports xenon e5 1650v2 guys?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> Just to be sure: can you confirm this mobo supports xenon e5 1650v2 guys?


It is, according to this.


----------



## 4lek

Yeah, i read that one.. but it says "some features may not be supported bla bla" too .. so asking first is better than cry later


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have to hope that the Asus Rampage IV Gene is better ....
> 
> Am I understandig this right, if I buy two two-channel memory kits and puts it into the Rampage Black Edition then it works as quad channel memory, and on the Z77 it works as dual channel memory even if I have four memory sticks? This is very confusing for me ... Corsair Dominator Platinum (which states to be quad channel) will cost me 800 USD, is that quad channel memory kit then?
> 
> 
> 
> z77 is a dual channel ram bus. x79 is quad channel and performs best with the appropriate 4 dimm slots filled. Best to buy a quad channel kit (4 matched sticks) than 2 2-stick kits. The later can work just fine, but in your case whhy risk one more thing to trouble shoot. MOst of the bsods you are getting are cpu-based. _*You might want to test that "used" cpu in another board before RMA*_.
> 
> Did you power off (completely - pull the plug) the plug in, reset the bios (clrcmos) post and set the necessary bios parameters (boot priorities, etc), restart and then insert your windows disk to load a fresh copy?
Click to expand...

this is a huge problem you dont know that your cpu is stable !! let alone you are using mismatched kits !~


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is a huge problem you dont know that your cpu is stable !! let alone you are using mismatched kits !~


I can't really be sure the CPU are stable or at all is working when I have bought the CPU used, this is common sense.

Mismatched kits, it is not mismatched, it is the same "number" on all four sticks, it is the same ram with the same memory chips, but it is dual channel.

Anyways, I have found a G.Skill kit that is Dual/Quad Channel for 250 USD (which I think is OK to pay), so I am going to order that tomorrow. At least rule out one "problem". If the CPU doesn't work I might just order a 4930K.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I can't really be sure the CPU are stable or at all is working when I have bought the CPU used, this is common sense.
> 
> Mismatched kits, it is not mismatched, it is the same "number" on all four sticks, it is the same ram with the same memory chips, but it is dual channel.
> 
> Anyways, I have found a G.Skill kit that is Dual/Quad Channel for 250 USD (which I think is OK to pay), so I am going to order that tomorrow. At least rule out one "problem". If the CPU doesn't work I might just order a 4930K.


May i ask why don't you look in your HANDBOOK for the correct type of RAM???

Instead of buying this then that, and then blaming the X79 Platform, if you do not install things in a correct way and sequence you are always looking at PROBLEMS!!

Using a OS from the Z77 and wondering why it will not work properly!!

Just do not take this the wrong kinda way here, but you have to do things right, before you start to question the X79 Platform!

From where i am standing and reading your posts it was a mix of different things from other platforms, but the biggest problem i see is your CPU!

Until you can test that or confirm that is the main problem in this case, you will never understand what to do next, and end up just fighting FIRE!
















Good Luck,

AJ.


----------



## alancsalt

"Mismatched" would mean not bought as a single set/kit. Two matching sets will not always play nicely together. You may or may not be lucky.


----------



## yknot

Hi to all.









Got my BE working with various mem sticks using XMP and a bit extra this and that (Vtt, Vccsa, Vdimm, with different CL/CR) But..................

If I go into "Vdimm Timing Control" and look up the different presets, how do I find out what the ICs are on my ram and, once I've got that, do I simply select a preset, put in the Vdimm and divider and then save and exit to see if I get into windows to try some testing using AIDA64?

I'm a bit nervous about popping heat spreaders off to physically check the ICs. Glue seems a bit permanent and not to be interfered with







.

Thanx


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yknot*
> 
> Hi to all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my BE working with various mem sticks using XMP and a bit extra this and that (Vtt, Vccsa, Vdimm, with different CL/CR) But..................
> 
> If I go into "Vdimm Timing Control" and look up the different presets, how do I find out what the ICs are on my ram and, once I've got that, do I simply select a preset, put in the Vdimm and divider and then save and exit to see if I get into windows to try some testing using AIDA64?
> 
> I'm a bit nervous about popping heat spreaders off to physically check the ICs. Glue seems a bit permanent and not to be interfered with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thanx


This kinda makes me a bit concerned, as Alan said, and me as well do not miss match Ram on this Platform!!

Always try to buy a QUAD SET OF 4 X 4 = 16GB or 4 x 8 = 32GB as this amount of Ram is more than enough to run most Apps!

Even a set of 4 x 2 = 8GB would be enough for everyday use, and still allow you to take advantage of the Quad set up on this platform.
















As for your question about IC's i personally would not worry or concern myself, so long as it works properly.

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yknot*
> 
> Hi to all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my BE working with various mem sticks using XMP and a bit extra this and that (Vtt, Vccsa, Vdimm, with different CL/CR) But..................
> 
> If I go into "Vdimm Timing Control" and look up the different presets, how do I find out what the ICs are on my ram and, once I've got that, do I simply select a preset, put in the Vdimm and divider and then save and exit to see if I get into windows to try some testing using AIDA64?
> 
> I'm a bit nervous about popping heat spreaders off to physically check the ICs. Glue seems a bit permanent and not to be interfered with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thanx


I use this chart for the Corsair stuff:



Otherwise, just google the part number and see what is said about them, or take off the heat spreaders and see what's written on the chips them selves.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yknot*
> 
> Hi to all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my BE working with various mem sticks using XMP and a bit extra this and that (Vtt, Vccsa, Vdimm, with different CL/CR) But..................
> 
> If I go into "Vdimm Timing Control" and look up the different presets, how do I find out what the ICs are on my ram and, once I've got that, do I simply select a preset, put in the Vdimm and divider and then save and exit to see if I get into windows to try some testing using AIDA64?
> 
> I'm a bit nervous about popping heat spreaders off to physically check the ICs. Glue seems a bit permanent and not to be interfered with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thanx


You're luckier than me, and I assume you'll be pushing them to their limits now?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> May i ask why don't you look in your HANDBOOK for the correct type of RAM???
> 
> Instead of buying this then that, and then blaming the X79 Platform, if you do not install things in a correct way and sequence you are always looking at PROBLEMS!!
> 
> Using a OS from the Z77 and wondering why it will not work properly!!
> 
> Just do not take this the wrong kinda way here, but you have to do things right, before you start to question the X79 Platform!
> 
> From where i am standing and reading your posts it was a mix of different things from other platforms, but the biggest problem i see is your CPU!
> 
> Until you can test that or confirm that is the main problem in this case, you will never understand what to do next, and end up just fighting FIRE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good Luck,
> 
> AJ.


I have checked the Handbook after you stated that here for the Asus Rampage IV Gene and it seems I would be lucky to find a matching ram set in my country. The one I found was a Corsair Vengance (or something) with the correct CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 which is 1600 Mhz, when I look up the G.Skill ram at G.Skill's homepage there is the message of "No results found" for that serial number. When I looked at some comments of the CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 I understood that after approximately two years there was found bad sectors on that ram, that usually make me not buy sticks like that.

That set of Corsair-ram was the only serial code I could find which was sold in my country.

I know that now that OS from a Z77 won't work good, but I am not seeing the connection that a clean SSD and a clean HDD with a USB 2.0 stick with Windows 7 (in the right USB port, and the SATA cable in the right SATA-connection) won't work. I have no idea how the CPU won't work at stock voltages, isen't that normal? (If that is the problem).

There is no visible damage to the 3930K-chip and there is no Q-code that can mean there is anything wrong with the CPU (broken CPU usually make the Q-code go "00" whcih doesn't exist in the addition to the User Manual or handbook. I do not see how the CPU would not work at stock voltage and stock multiplyer.

If my BSOD's is caused because of something faulty I do not know, kind of. I hope that the Asus RIVG solve some of my problems at least.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> "Mismatched" would mean not bought as a single set/kit. Two matching sets will not always play nicely together. You may or may not be lucky.


Ah, I see. But still it seems like X79 is much more fussy about the ram than the Z77 and Z87. I have to see what kind of ram I will get.


----------



## Masonjar13

Hey everyone, I was wondering if there's a way to change the CPU level-up presets on the OC panel? I wasn't able to find much information on the panel itself.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> You're luckier than me, and I assume you'll be pushing them to their limits now?


wouldn't expect anything less from ynot!


----------



## yknot

Thanx for the replies..............checking your list now MrTOOSHORT ,

I'm still a bit puzzled by the preset values. Do I select "Manual" in the AI Tuner menu instead of XMP and input the preset relevant to my ICs in the Vdimm Timing Control menu, then just adjust volts and dividers plus CL/CR until I get stable?

AJ.........I'm definitely keeping to 4 stick kits at 16Gb atm running quad channel also. The reason I want the ICs is to have a play with the different timings so that I can get a bit better understanding..........................no, not that much understanding, just a little bit more than I have atm.

Thanx


----------



## yknot

Sorry............double post


----------



## reev3r

Maybe I am just behind the times and technology, but the last time I saw people fretting over multi-channel memory I would send them to a benchmark of single/dual/tri/and quad channel benchmarks, and of the three or four I found there was zero appreciable difference between them, within a margin of error anyway, of at most 2%.

This was benching everything from loading webpages, loading/playing games, loading/editing photos, and loading/playing games. It seemed to make no difference whatsoever, regardless of the program... As well, I have seen no appreciable difference between 1333mHz and 3000mHz RAM...

So I guess, what gives? I understand the benchmarkers and tweakers out there, but most people are not going for that particular niche. So I have to ask why people are so concerned with the fastest RAM, or ultra quad channel megasnatch RAM, when it makes zero difference in the use case...

That being said, I understand the folks out there that 'Just want it', totally get it, I didn't need 32GB of RAM, nor an R4BE, nor a dual eco RAID, I wanted it.. lol

I just see so many people that seem to think that their RAM is going to be a bottleneck because it is in dual channel mode, but alas, I have never seen, nor heard of an actual instance of such a thing... Granted, the last time I checked was perhaps three years ago, and I could be behind on something, but given the rate at which RAM goes through updates and how invariably faster it is compared to ANY other component, I have my doubts...

Anybody able to help me understand why this idea is ever perpetuated...?

Thanks for the help, always looking to better my understanding, and this is not a troll, it is a legitimate question.

Thanks!


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Maybe I am just behind the times and technology, but the last time I saw people fretting over multi-channel memory I would send them to a benchmark of single/dual/tri/and quad channel benchmarks, and of the three or four I found there was zero appreciable difference between them, within a margin of error anyway, of at most 2%.
> 
> This was benching everything from loading webpages, loading/playing games, loading/editing photos, and loading/playing games. It seemed to make no difference whatsoever, regardless of the program... As well, I have seen no appreciable difference between 1333mHz and 3000mHz RAM...
> 
> So I guess, what gives? I understand the benchmarkers and tweakers out there, but most people are not going for that particular niche. So I have to ask why people are so concerned with the fastest RAM, or ultra quad channel megasnatch RAM, when it makes zero difference in the use case...
> 
> That being said, I understand the folks out there that 'Just want it', totally get it, I didn't need 32GB of RAM, nor an R4BE, nor a dual eco RAID, I wanted it.. lol
> 
> I just see so many people that seem to think that their RAM is going to be a bottleneck because it is in dual channel mode, but alas, I have never seen, nor heard of an actual instance of such a thing... Granted, the last time I checked was perhaps three years ago, and I could be behind on something, but given the rate at which RAM goes through updates and how invariably faster it is compared to ANY other component, I have my doubts...
> 
> Anybody able to help me understand why this idea is ever perpetuated...?
> 
> Thanks for the help, always looking to better my understanding, and this is not a troll, it is a legitimate question.
> 
> Thanks!


Like you, I also felt the same about memory frequency and dual channel vs. quad channel etc. But I can tell you from overclocking my PC with this mobo, having to drop down to 1600MHz in the process of finding the CPU's OC potential, that there is a perceptible difference between 1600MHz and 2133MHz, and I don't believe this is entirely subjective. Opening folders, files, executing programs etc, it all just feels snappier, even if only a thousandth of a second snappier, at a 2133MHz.

But that is only my personal view of memory frequency, concerning channel and capacity, just a few pages back in this thread I lay out my experience adding two additional 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133Mhz. I instantly picked up over 1k points Physics in 3DMark 11 and I am allocating the excessive memory (20 out of 32GB) to RAM Disk, with the bundled ROG RAM Disk program, and it is far from a novelty.

I was really stumped as to why my 3DMark 11 Physics score was only around 14k at 4.6GHz, as overclocking reviews of the 4930 and others own scores were all around 15.5-16k at 4.6GHz. You wouldn't think it, but it was the dual-channel memory that was stunting the performance. Does this 1k increase (from 14.2k to 15.4k) translate into any felt, "real-world" performance increase? Aside from my personal, possibly subjective perception that 2133MHz is faster than say 1600MHz I honestly cannot discern a performance improvement now that I am using quad-channel but that doesn't mean that there isn't an improvement as I haven't done anything other than play a few games here and there that may not be memory intensive, or reflect an improvement going from dual to quad channel. If I was doing something like AutoCAD or something similar that is very memory intensive, I am willing to bet there would be an obvious improvement. I don't think going from 14 to nearly 15.5k Physics in 3DMark 11 is without some commensurate improvement under "real world" use.

So with X79, there is a definite difference performance-wise between dual and quad channel.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/8240#post_22370713


----------



## reev3r

I appreciate your input, ESPECIALLY your willingness to be open enough to say that it *could* be a subjective experience. More than the information that was the best part of reading that! So thank you for being real with everyone, and yourself. You win the Awesome of the day award! So... Umm... Here's this @}-,-'--

So, all that jazzy unrelatedness aside... I found this in a quick search, granted it does not include quad channel, but I could not find the ones I had before, but the results are comparable, albeit with fewer tests, but yielding 1-2% differences.

Personally, if it came down to buying a single 8GB DIMM or 2x4GB DIMM's because of a budget, or whatever reason, I will always buy the single 8GB DIMM, simple because I will be able to more easily upgrade later, without the need to remove the 2x4GB modules later. I learned this many years ago, which is why I have a bunch of pairs of useless RAM now... lol

Do me a favor, if you find anything interesting on this topic, please PM me to me know, as I do not always check this page when it changes...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Maybe I am just behind the times and technology, but the last time I saw people fretting over multi-channel memory I would send them to a benchmark of single/dual/tri/and quad channel benchmarks, and of the three or four I found there was zero appreciable difference between them, within a margin of error anyway, of at most 2%.
> 
> This was benching everything from loading webpages, loading/playing games, loading/editing photos, and loading/playing games. It seemed to make no difference whatsoever, regardless of the program... As well, I have seen no appreciable difference between 1333mHz and 3000mHz RAM...
> 
> So I guess, what gives? I understand the benchmarkers and tweakers out there, but most people are not going for that particular niche. So I have to ask why people are so concerned with the fastest RAM, or ultra quad channel megasnatch RAM, when it makes zero difference in the use case...
> 
> That being said, I understand the folks out there that 'Just want it', totally get it, I didn't need 32GB of RAM, nor an R4BE, nor a dual eco RAID, I wanted it.. lol
> 
> I just see so many people that seem to think that their RAM is going to be a bottleneck because it is in dual channel mode, but alas, I have never seen, nor heard of an actual instance of such a thing... Granted, the last time I checked was perhaps three years ago, and I could be behind on something, but given the rate at which RAM goes through updates and how invariably faster it is compared to ANY other component, I have my doubts...
> 
> *Anybody able to help me understand why this idea is ever perpetuated...?
> *
> Thanks for the help, always looking to better my understanding, and this is not a troll, it is a legitimate question.
> 
> Thanks!


if all you're doing is desktop "benchmarks", email etc or simple game benchmarks then sure.. but then why buy a 500 or $1000 cpu with a quad channel IMC and put on a motherboard with 8 dimm slots, only to use a portion of it's bandwidth? Wouldn't it make more sense to scale down by that logic?
Post some actual benchmark numbers and let's have a look/compare. OCN members may benefit from real data


----------



## Shadowarez

I thought faster ram higher bandwith like Quad Channel only saw a significant increase in performance in Encoding and video production or content creation?


----------



## ledzepp3

Just wanted to say thank y'all







you guys plus the whole Sandy-E community, helped a former AMD guy get an eh-grade 3930K to 4.5GHz









-Zepp


----------



## Deceiver777

R4BE really bad stuff - step up from z87 deluxe with 4770k - now i have R4BE with 4960x and Gskill RipjawZ 19200 32 gb.. and have a bad performance in game's (( my framerates go down - and no matter overclock this or not.. Videocards 2x gtx titan black.. try it in a diffrent way's and dont have a good result.((( who can halp me ?

http://valid.canardpc.com/xkhdqs


----------



## yknot

Sorry if I've sparked a debate. I'm simply trying to get a better understanding of what's involved.


----------



## 4lek

I just had the second faulty RIVBE in a row.

The first one had issues with Pcie slots and (expecially) asmedia satas.
The second one randomly doesn't detect Ram blocks and usbs.This and it's around 80 celsius in idle .. you could cook an egg on northbridge.

Well so.. i think i'm done with asus. let's see how evga x79 dark works








Glad to have been part of the club for a few time .. have fun guys.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Sucks man.









The Dark is a great board too. I wish you luck!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

It seems that I also got a faulty RIVBE, got the Asus Rampage IV Gene today and running like a champ with my dual channel memory and the 3930K. I have not had a single BSOD after 2 hours with it, I may buy some Kingston 2400 Mhz ram just to be on the safe side, but it doesn't seem like I need it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is a huge problem you dont know that your cpu is stable !! let alone you are using mismatched kits !~
> 
> 
> 
> _*I can't really be sure the CPU are stable or at all is working when I have bought the CPU used, this is common sense.*_
> 
> Mismatched kits, it is not mismatched, it is the same "number" on all four sticks, it is the same ram with the same memory chips, but it is dual channel.
> 
> Anyways, I have found a G.Skill kit that is Dual/Quad Channel for 250 USD (which I think is OK to pay), so I am going to order that tomorrow. At least rule out one "problem". If the CPU doesn't work I might just order a 4930K.
Click to expand...

no it isnt common sense it is a fact that you DO NOT know if the CPU is good, yet you go out right, and blame the mobo, as the "stuff" worked without issue on another platform. which does not mean it is functional with this platform. you came in and had unrealistic expectations. with that said i wish it did work for you. it sucks that it did not. maybe you can take the CPU to a friends and test it at their house assuming you know someone with 2011? that is really the first step i can see making all this worth while, possibly you may be able to get your money back if someone did abuse the CPU and it is a dud !

i also bought mine used, but i vetted it and bought from a reliable person on OCN you never said where yours came from,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> _*"Mismatched" would mean not bought as a single set/kit*_. Two matching sets will not always play nicely together. You may or may not be lucky.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yknot*
> 
> Hi to all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my BE working with various mem sticks using XMP and a bit extra this and that (Vtt, Vccsa, Vdimm, with different CL/CR) But..................
> 
> If I go into "Vdimm Timing Control" and look up the different presets, how do I find out what the ICs are on my ram and, once I've got that, do I simply select a preset, put in the Vdimm and divider and then save and exit to see if I get into windows to try some testing using AIDA64?
> 
> I'm a bit nervous about popping heat spreaders off to physically check the ICs. Glue seems a bit permanent and not to be interfered with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thanx


you can, but it is a craps shoot, you just gotta hope for luck, i do mix as well. but you are not guaranteed to be able to hence the extra cost, they use their fancy and specialized equip to vet the memory for you ( i have been lucky ! )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masonjar13*
> 
> Hey everyone, I was wondering if there's a way to change the CPU level-up presets on the OC panel? I wasn't able to find much information on the panel itself.


sorry i dont think you can but i have not played with it much as i am waiting to make my own cable
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> If the above post is out of line, I offer my sincerest apologies, and I assure, it will not happen again, but I feel it was prudent to address the fact that such posts do not belong, and contribute nothing short of negativity to a forum in which I have seen an abundance of helpful and friendly banter, that should not be spoiled by someone that intends only to spread his poor attitiude.


100% right but also it is a troll comment not a opinion. it became trolling the moment he used "noobs"


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no it isnt common sense it is a fact that you DO NOT know if the CPU is good, yet you go out right, and blame the mobo, as the "stuff" worked without issue on another platform. which does not mean it is functional with this platform. you came in and had unrealistic expectations. with that said i wish it did work for you. it sucks that it did not. maybe you can take the CPU to a friends and test it at their house assuming you know someone with 2011? that is really the first step i can see making all this worth while, possibly you may be able to get your money back if someone did abuse the CPU and it is a dud !


Okay, sorry I offended you, that really was not my intentions.

I got the Asus Rampage IV Gene today and everything is working perfectly, even the ram (the dual channel ram) and the CPU is just fine, no problems. The Gene was dirt cheap and there is great deal of return policies here so I am not worried at all.

The guy I bought the CPU from is good, he helped me track down the missing package so I at all got the CPU after it got lost in mail (the CPU-box fell out of the package). I bought it private.

Anybody know if it is any point in overclocking the CPU for better performance at 4K gaming? I am okay at stock voltages as long as I do not get any bottlenecks with dual R9 290X's or GTX 780 Ti's.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anybody know if it is any point in overclocking the CPU for better performance at 4K gaming? I am okay at stock voltages as long as I do not get any bottlenecks with dual R9 290X's or GTX 780 Ti's.


For gaming that I do, up to 4.2 GHz or so shows some decent gains, beyond that is rather useless.


----------



## Errorist66

I noticed that my SLI performance on 2 GTX780TI goes up 10 to 15% if I use strap 125 vs strap 100. In Valley, It's 115 fps at strap 100 bs 133 or more at 125. But you do loose voltage offset so I switch between the 2 profiles. I'm still playing with BCLK overclock to see if I can get better SLI on strap 100.


----------



## yknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yknot*
> 
> Hi to all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my BE working with various mem sticks using XMP and a bit extra this and that (Vtt, Vccsa, Vdimm, with different CL/CR) But..................
> 
> If I go into "Vdimm Timing Control" and look up the different presets, how do I find out what the ICs are on my ram and, once I've got that, do I simply select a preset, put in the Vdimm and divider and then save and exit to see if I get into windows to try some testing using AIDA64?
> 
> I'm a bit nervous about popping heat spreaders off to physically check the ICs. Glue seems a bit permanent and not to be interfered with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thanx
> 
> 
> 
> you can, but it is a craps shoot, you just gotta hope for luck, i do mix as well. but you are not guaranteed to be able to hence the extra cost, they use their fancy and specialized equip to vet the memory for you ( i have been lucky ! )
Click to expand...

Thanx for that. I've been able to increase my 4 sticks of Trident ram up a bit but, as ppl here say, it's not much benefit...........still, it's interesting to see what's involved.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I noticed that my SLI performance on 2 GTX780TI goes up 10 to 15% if I use strap 125 vs strap 100. In Valley, It's 115 fps at strap 100 bs 133 or more at 125. But you do loose voltage offset so I switch between the 2 profiles. I'm still playing with BCLK overclock to see if I can get better SLI on strap 100.


This is very possible. But before concluding 125 @ fixed vcore is improving sli performance, can you set your rig to your offset frequency but use a fixed vcore and give it as shot? 125 strap really doesn't change the pci bus speed (I think







) but increasing bclk at any strap will and does affect multicard performance. A 103 bclk @ strap 100 has been working very well for me. I've been getting 166 strap (fixed vcore) to work very well too... although I tried a catzilla run yesterday (after setting a personal best in the bench at 100x48) and catZ just stopped. no bsod, no error trap code, nothing. Mk11 and MK 13 go fine at 166. Catzilla is one buggy benchmark!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> For gaming that I do, up to 4.2 GHz or so shows some decent gains, beyond that is rather useless.


Good to know, I am so glad right now. My 4x 4GB Crucal BallistiX Elite 1866 Mhz is running in quad channel!









I am running the CPU at 1,2 Vcore at 3800 Mhz (did crank it up to 1,2 Vcore in case it was unstable at stock voltage), idle around 35 degrees celsius with EK-Supremacy and EK-XTX240 with push/pull.

Now it is soon going to be 4K testing with this system!









Thank you again, cadaveca! You have been to big help, rep+ to you.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> This is very possible. But before concluding 125 @ fixed vcore is improving sli performance, can you set your rig to your offset frequency but use a fixed vcore and give it as shot? 125 strap really doesn't change the pci bus speed (I think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but increasing bclk at any strap will and does affect multicard performance. A 103 bclk @ strap 100 has been working very well for me. I've been getting 166 strap (fixed vcore) to work very well too... although I tried a catzilla run yesterday (after setting a personal best in the bench at 100x48) and catZ just stopped. no bsod, no error trap code, nothing. Mk11 and MK 13 go fine at 166. Catzilla is one buggy benchmark!


Yes, re: " I'm still playing with BCLK overclock to see if I can get better SLI on strap 100.".
I've tried 103 to 112 with mixed result. The weird part is that 2 run in a row doesn't give near the same result. i.e. it sometimes drop back to 114. GPU are at around 40C on water.

I also get watdog timeout error in some case. Wondering if this is more a vcore, a VTT or a VCCSa voltage kind of issue. or I just pushed the BCLK a bit too far... Hours of fun. The windows UI looks strange as I spend more time in the bios.


----------



## cadaveca

Just a note guys. I have found that some weird problems can be fixed by flashing the original shipping BIOS that came on your board, and then re-flashing back up to whatever version you like. It's also important to make sure that you have the proper MEI driver installed.

@Errorist...

look at PCIe/PCH for those Watchdog timeout errors. Also boost VTT a bit. It's usually a combination of those that is the problem combined with pushing ram speed a bit high, in my experience.

If you use AIDA64 to test memory bandwidth, about ~60k or slightly over is going to be about the max bandwidth we can push for 24/7. This kind of correlates with the 2133 Mhz memory recommendation.

As to issues...man, you guys....remember that SNB launched wit h2 disabled cores, and X79 chipsets were supposed to have SAS+SATA6. These desktop versions of this chipset isn't exactly Intel's best product ever. Problems with USB, PCIe, memory clocking...nearly all Intel's fault, not ASUS. At the same time, the board has all the options you need to fix these issues, if you spend the time, more often than not, and please do keep in mind we're pushing nearly 300W through these CPUs for 24/7 OCs, which is over 200% TDP. You're lucky to break 150% on Z77/Z87/Z97.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Yes, re: " I'm still playing with BCLK overclock to see if I can get better SLI on strap 100.".
> I've tried 103 to 112 with mixed result. The weird part is that 2 run in a row doesn't give near the same result. i.e. it sometimes drop back to 114. GPU are at around 40C on water.
> 
> *I also get watdog timeout error in some case*. Wondering if this is more a vcore, a VTT or a VCCSa voltage kind of issue. or I just pushed the BCLK a bit too far... Hours of fun. The windows UI looks strange as I spend more time in the bios.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Just a note guys. I have found that some weird problems can be fixed by flashing the original shipping BIOS that came on your board, and then re-flashing back up to whatever version you like. It's also important to make sure that you have the proper MEI driver installed.
> 
> @Errorist...
> 
> *look at PCIe/PCH for those Watchdog timeout errors*. Also boost VTT a bit. It's usually a combination of those that is the problem combined with pushing ram speed a bit high, in my experience.
> 
> If you use AIDA64 to test memory bandwidth, about ~60k or slightly over is going to be about the max bandwidth we can push for 24/7. This kind of correlates with the 2133 Mhz memory recommendation.
> 
> As to issues...man, you guys....remember that SNB launched wit h2 disabled cores, and X79 chipsets were supposed to have SAS+SATA6. These desktop versions of this chipset isn't exactly Intel's best product ever. Problems with USB, PCIe, memory clocking...nearly all Intel's fault, not ASUS. At the same time, the board has all the options you need to fix these issues, if you spend the time, more often than not, and please do keep in mind we're pushing nearly 300W through these CPUs for 24/7 OCs, which is over 200% TDP. You're lucky to break 150% on Z77/Z87/Z97.


try setting 1.3x for pch? and also, adjust CPU PLL which may help phase the new bus frequency. still have that catZ thing going. firestrike runs [very] well at 166, but caZ now did a blackout? daum. other than catZ, 28x166 and 29x166 are doing fine and "appear" very snappy with 2222 [email protected] 8-10-10-28-128.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I appreciate your input, ESPECIALLY your willingness to be open enough to say that it *could* be a subjective experience. More than the information that was the best part of reading that! So thank you for being real with everyone, and yourself. You win the Awesome of the day award! So... Umm... Here's this @}-,-'--
> 
> So, all that jazzy unrelatedness aside... I found this in a quick search, granted it does not include quad channel, but I could not find the ones I had before, but the results are comparable, albeit with fewer tests, but yielding 1-2% differences.
> 
> Personally, if it came down to buying a single 8GB DIMM or 2x4GB DIMM's because of a budget, or whatever reason, I will always buy the single 8GB DIMM, simple because I will be able to more easily upgrade later, without the need to remove the 2x4GB modules later. I learned this many years ago, which is why I have a bunch of pairs of useless RAM now... lol
> 
> Do me a favor, if you find anything interesting on this topic, please PM me to me know, as I do not always check this page when it changes...


Yeah that's what I thought and that's why initially I had only picked up 2x8GB of Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz! I too looked at charts (probably the exact same ones as you did) comparing quad channel and dual channel bandwidth and how the difference was maybe 2% and prematurely concluded that quad-channel wasn't worth the expense. But I was totally stumped as to why my 3DMark 11 Physics score was so low, and upon the recommendation of some incredibly knowledgeable and helpful members here (JPMBoy et al.) I did some more digging and found a quad channel comparison showing a significant difference performance-wise in 3DMark 11 and presumably "real world" as well.

http://www.legitreviews.com/ddr3-memory-performance-analysis-on-intel-x79_1779/3

So I picked up another 2x8GB of Corsair Vengeance Pro as I found a pair used on ebay for a bargain ($130. used). It was a gamble, especially as I was not only committing the cardinal sin of mixing memory sets but also with USED memory but the result was a 1200 point increase in 3DMark 11 Physics (from 14.2 to 15.4k)! I'm now a believer!

Last best quad-channel, 15.4k Physics: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8400986

So maybe some of those dual and quad-channel comparisons were with a different chip-set, but with 4930 and RIVBE there is a definite performance difference between dual and quad-channel. I don't know if youve been following this thread very closely but about 10 pages ago my quad-channel revelation is chronicled:

Starting around here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/8140

And ending around here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/8230

I am now in the process of completely rebuilding Skyrim from scratch, starting with what many consider to be the best ENB, "RealVisonENB" and the long list of mods recommended by its creator here:

http://www.nexusmods.com/skyrim/mods/30936/

Once finished, I will be putting that on the 20GB or so of memory I have allocated to RAM Disk. Skyrim should be a completely improved experience with this CPU, this GPU (3GB of VRAM as compared to the 2GB of the 680M's on my former PC) and RAM Disk. Skryim IS one of those games that is CPU bound and that does benefit from the additional cores of the 4930.

Update:

If anyone read the above and is considering this RAM, Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz, I have to note that although it was stable at 1.5V at some point it lost stability (for whatever unknown reason) and I did have to make the following changes to restore stability again at this frequency:

DRAM Voltage: Increased from 1.5 to 1.650V

VTT CPU: Increased from 1.0V to 1.15V (this needs to be exactly .5V away from DRAM Voltage at all times)

2nd VTT CPU: 1.10387V

I also just experimented with 2400MHz but had to up the timings from 11,11,11,27 to 12,14,14,33 for stability and in so doing ultimately ended up with a weaker 3DMark 11 score (15k even, down from 15.4k with the memory at 2133Mhz but with tighter timings). So I think 2133MHz is the limit of this particular memory. There are other versions of Corsair Vengeance Pro that are rated higher (upwards of 2800MHz) and even Corsair Dominator Platinum but those all fetch a pretty penny, and this particular memory I am using was $260 out the door for 32GB (granted, half of it is used, but even the other half that I purchased new was only $130 off of ebay.)

If youre interested here is the model number: CMY16GX3M2A2133C11


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> For gaming that I do, up to 4.2 GHz or so shows some decent gains, beyond that is rather useless.


I forgot to ask at what voltage you are running, I know it is difference between each CPU, but do you have a rough estimate? Am I looking at somewhere around 1,3 vcore and 42 multiplayer? Do I need to tweak anything else? I can also put my ram in to X.M.P to get the 1866 Mhz instead of 1333 Mhz (which I currently am running).

I also noticed that the "package usage" for my 3930K was 131,23 watts in CPUID Hardware Monitor, that is pretty insane at 3,8 Ghz. Maybe it has something to do with the 1,2 vcore I am running, or is it just using that much juice at stock? My temperatures is pretty good though (around 35 degree celsius idle, load around 50 I think), the push/pull fans on the XTX240 is only 700 rpm's so I do not want to push too hard before I get up the rest of my radiators.

How much radiator-space is good for 4,2 Ghz, is 360 mm^2 enough?


----------



## Kimir

With 1.3v you should be looking for 4.4-4.5Ghz for an average CPU and more if you get lucky.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I forgot to ask at what voltage you are running, I know it is difference between each CPU, but do you have a rough estimate? Am I looking at somewhere around 1,3 vcore and 42 multiplayer? Do I need to tweak anything else? I can also put my ram in to X.M.P to get the 1866 Mhz instead of 1333 Mhz (which I currently am running).
> 
> I also noticed that the "package usage" for my 3930K was 131,23 watts in CPUID Hardware Monitor, that is pretty insane at 3,8 Ghz. Maybe it has something to do with the 1,2 vcore I am running, or is it just using that much juice at stock? My temperatures is pretty good though (around 35 degree celsius idle, load around 50 I think), the push/pull fans on the XTX240 is only 700 rpm's so I do not want to push too hard before I get up the rest of my radiators.
> 
> How much radiator-space is good for 4,2 Ghz, is 360 mm^2 enough?


1.3 V core should give 4.5-4.6 GHZ on good chips, maybe more. I run 1.265V for 4.5 GHz.

XMP? man, enable it! Take that free performance increase! IVB-E supports 1866, so should be no problem.

software power consumption is pretty much BS from my testing. Chips are 130W TDP. My "good" chip pulls more than that @ 3.6 GHz on all cores, measured with proper tools, not software. 4.0 GHz on all cores is nearly 190W. 4.5 GHz is nearly 250W. more than that, is beyond the H80i that I use.

So, rad space? Man, I'm not into watercooling that much any more, that was what I was into 10 years ago (literally). I use an H80i on my 4960X @ 4.5 GHz. I can push up to 1.3V and still stay under 90c in P95, covering that 250W or so.adding twice the rad might pull temps down 5-8C, maybe more, since rad feels quite warm to the touch.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 1.3 V core should give 4.5-4.6 GHZ on good chips, maybe more. I run 1.265V for 4.5 GHz.
> 
> XMP? man, enable it! Take that free performance increase! IVB-E supports 1866, so should be no problem.
> 
> software power consumption is pretty much BS from my testing. Chips are 130W TDP. My "good" chip pulls more than that @ 3.6 GHz on all cores, measured with proper tools, not software. 4.0 GHz on all cores is nearly 190W. 4.5 GHz is nearly 250W. more than that, is beyond the H80i that I use.
> 
> So, rad space? Man, I'm not into watercooling that much any more, that was what I was into 10 years ago (literally). I use an H80i on my 4960X @ 4.5 GHz. I can push up to 1.3V and still stay under 90c in P95, covering that 250W or so.adding twice the rad might pull temps down 5-8C, maybe more, since rad feels quite warm to the touch.


So 1,25 vcore is a good start then, then use Prime95 and/or Intel Burn test for a hour or something? I test all my overclocks in games, then I know asap if the overclock is stable, I just use Prime95 and Intel Burn test for the highest temperatures I will achieve. Which temperature should I not go above?

I will enable XMP as soon as Steam and Origin is finished downloading my games.

Ah, okay, that is ... enough.

I will be doing something like 2x 480 Monsta, 2x XTX240 with push or pull with 2x R9 290X and the 3930K so when I got that installed I guess I do not have to worry about high temperatures. I might add "the spare radiators too" which is 1x XTX120 and 1x XT120. I just need to build some kind of a "water barrel" first, because my case will not take even one radiator with all the hardware that is going in to my m-ATX case.

On another note, I RMAed the RIVBE today, but I am very satisfied with the RIVG so it is not a big loss for me, even though I can kiss 3- and 4-way SLI/Crossfire goodbye.


----------



## cadaveca

try to use AIDA or RealTemp or Coretemp for temps, try to keep cores under 75C.

P95 for max temps, exactly. I use games as well.. heck, I use OCCT, IBT, P95, wPrime..I'm not happy until I can pass every single one of them in a row without reboots.

I hope to see you with another RIVBE soon...they are great boards, but the ability to push the limits on nearly any chip also means that normal usage can be a bit finicky... but I like to change settings a lot, tweak for performance, etc, so none of that bothers me in the least. Just remember that when things start to go wonky, go back to stock, reflash BIOS, and re-start from previous stable. Going on 8 months with my boards now, can't say I have ANY complaints.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> try setting 1.3x for pch? and also, adjust CPU PLL which may help phase the new bus frequency. still have that catZ thing going. firestrike runs [very] well at 166, but caZ now did a blackout? daum. other than catZ, 28x166 and 29x166 are doing fine and "appear" very snappy with 2222 [email protected] 8-10-10-28-128.


Tried with the PCH at 1.3x from auto. BCLK at 107 was working a bit better with also VTT at 1.2. Still my CPU needs 1.48v to do 4600 with that setup. I don't want to go much higher but having the Intel tuning plan in my back pocket I just want to push this for benchmarks. I always reload the 4.5GHz 1.38v profile called AJbased45 for 24/7.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Tried with the PCH at 1.3x from auto. BCLK at 107 was working a bit better with also VTT at 1.2. Still my CPU needs 1.48v to do 4600 with that setup. I don't want to go much higher but having the Intel tuning plan in my back pocket I just want to push this for benchmarks. I always reload the 4.5GHz 1.38v profile called AJbased45 for 24/7.


wait... what? 1.*4*8V for 4.6GHz? A typo I hope. If not, you gotta lower that vcore for 24/7 (and buy the intel tuning plan for sure).


----------



## szeged

1.48 for 4.6? Yikes lol.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> wait... what? 1.*4*8V for 4.6GHz? A typo I hope. If not, you gotta lower that vcore for 24/7 (and buy the intel tuning plan for sure).


ya my cpu sux i do have the plan and i'm about to use it


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> try to use AIDA or RealTemp or Coretemp for temps, try to keep cores under 75C.
> 
> P95 for max temps, exactly. I use games as well.. heck, I use OCCT, IBT, P95, wPrime..I'm not happy until I can pass every single one of them in a row without reboots.
> 
> I hope to see you with another RIVBE soon...they are great boards, but the ability to push the limits on nearly any chip also means that normal usage can be a bit finicky... but I like to change settings a lot, tweak for performance, etc, so none of that bothers me in the least. Just remember that when things start to go wonky, go back to stock, reflash BIOS, and re-start from previous stable. Going on 8 months with my boards now, can't say I have ANY complaints.


Sadly I won't get another RIVBE, I will keep the RIVG.

Anyways, I tried 45 multiplayer and 1,265 and I got a BSOD 124 or something, cranked the multiplayer down to 38 and the vcore down to 1,2 again. Did some Prime95 blend test for 15 minutes and about one hour of Hitman Absolution gaming at 4K. GTX 660 Ti SLI for 4K gaming really sucks.









The temperature of the 3930K @ 1,2 vcore and stress testing was averaging out on 56 degrees celsius (which I think is good), but I will not pass 70 degrees celsius (personal comfort) so I am happy with 4,2 Ghz and that will probably go at 1,25 vcore. I will do some real overclocking when I get my system sorted and setup proper.

I tried to start BF4 Campaign and I just got a flickering black screen, it seemed like it was good in windowed mode, but when I got in to fullscreen mode I got an error about some DirectX thing and my "GTX 660 Ti" with a certain driver was the error message. It is weird when everything worked perfect with Hitman Absolution. I will try Titanfall too, to see if I get the same problem there.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> ya my cpu sux i do have the plan and i'm about to use it


Actually what are your OC settings? You might be able to do some tweaking to bring your VCORE down to 1.4V. I also needed 1.45V to get 4.6GHz stable but increasing CPU PLL from 1.8 to 1.9V allowed me to dial back VCORE from 1.445V to 1.398V (as measured by DMM). Another thing, I see in your signature that youre running 32GB of 2400MHz memory, you could either dial back the frequency to 2133MHz in conjunction with increasing DRAM Voltage to 1.650V, possibly getting away with tightening your timings in the process, which should allow you to bring VCORE down even more. Also increase CPU VCCSA and VTT to 1.15V. Better to run more DRAM voltage if it allows you to significantly reduce VCORE.

I also just played around with overclocking my memory to 2400MHz, having to loosen the timings from 11,11,11,29 to 12,14,14,33 and my 3DMark 11 Physics score actually went down 400 points, from 15.4k to 15k. 2133MHz performs better with tighter timings than 2400Mhz with loose timings. So if you can do the above and tighten your timings in the process then that is a win/win.

The problem with the mentality of simply using your Tuning Plan because you think you have an under-performing chip is that you might not actually have an under-performing chip but may end up with one as a replacement and then youre stuck with that one for the remainder of your 3 years. Heaven forbid you get a real dud (many chips can't seem to do 4.6GHz under 1.4V, but I don't think many are trying the tweaks above, I too thought I had a dud but am now at 4.6GHz at 1.398V actual/measured with DMM) that needs say 1.4V for 4.5GHz OR you actually manage to cook your chip before the end of three years and really need the Tuning Plan; you can only exchange your CPU once and that's it.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Sadly I won't get another RIVBE, I will keep the RIVG.
> 
> Anyways, I tried 45 multiplayer and 1,265 and I got a BSOD 124 or something, cranked the multiplayer down to 38 and the vcore down to 1,2 again. Did some Prime95 blend test for 15 minutes and about one hour of Hitman Absolution gaming at 4K. GTX 660 Ti SLI for 4K gaming really sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The temperature of the 3930K @ 1,2 vcore and stress testing was averaging out on 56 degrees celsius (which I think is good), but I will not pass 70 degrees celsius (personal comfort) so I am happy with 4,2 Ghz and that will probably go at 1,25 vcore. I will do some real overclocking when I get my system sorted and setup proper.
> 
> I tried to start BF4 Campaign and I just got a flickering black screen, it seemed like it was good in windowed mode, but when I got in to fullscreen mode I got an error about some DirectX thing and my "GTX 660 Ti" with a certain driver was the error message. It is weird when everything worked perfect with Hitman Absolution. I will try Titanfall too, to see if I get the same problem there.


Please fill out "Rigbuilder" and add your rig to your signature in your profile. It will help fellow OCN'ers respond to hardware and softeare related questions/issues.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Actually what are your OC settings? You might be able to do some tweaking to bring your VCORE down to 1.4V. I also needed 1.45V to get 4.6GHz stable but increasing CPU PLL from 1.8 to 1.9V allowed me to dial back VCORE from 1.445V to 1.398V (as measured by DMM). Another thing, I see in your signature that youre running 32GB of 2400MHz memory, you could either dial back the frequency to 2133MHz in conjunction with increasing DRAM Voltage to 1.650V, possibly getting away with tightening your timings in the process, which should allow you to bring VCORE down even more. Also increase CPU VCCSA and VTT to 1.15V. Better to run more DRAM voltage if it allows you to significantly reduce VCORE.
> 
> I also just played around with overclocking my memory to 2400MHz, having to loosen the timings from 11,11,11,29 to 12,14,14,33 and my 3DMark 11 Physics score actually went down 400 points, from 15.4k to 15k. 2133MHz performs better with tighter timings than 2400Mhz with loose timings. So if you can do the above and tighten your timings in the process then that is a win/win.
> 
> The problem with the mentality of simply using your Tuning Plan because you think you have an under-performing chip is that you might not actually have an under-performing chip but may end up with one as a replacement and then youre stuck with that one for the remainder of your 3 years. Heaven forbid you get a real dud (many chips can't seem to do 4.6GHz under 1.4V, but I don't think many are trying the tweaks above, I too thought I had a dud but am now at 4.6GHz at 1.398V actual/measured with DMM) that needs say 1.4V for 4.5GHz OR you actually manage to cook your chip before the end of three years and really need the Tuning Plan; you can only exchange your CPU once and that's it.


which LLC are you running? I can run with less voltage and prime95 or aida stability are happy. But H264Benchmark blue screen in 1 or 2 runs.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> which LLC are you running? I can run with less voltage and prime95 or aida stability are happy. But H264Benchmark blue screen in 1 or 2 runs.


LLC is on High, my personal experience with LLC is that Extreme results in a .04V discrepancy between displayed and actual voltage. I am only Prime95 stable at this voltage, which is good enough for me, I am not experiencing BSOD with games or applications etc. Honestly I would dial back the voltage so that youre only Prime95 stable, who cares if some ultra-intensive benchmark results in a BSOD, if youre not getting them on a regular basis I don't see a problem. If you start getting BSOD while using the applications you normally use or playing certain game on the other hand, then you might want to return to stability testing with your preferred benchmark programs. For me, if its Prime95 stable, its nearly 100% stable for everything else.

But yeah, 1.48V is too much, you should get that down to 1.4V max as soon as possible. There is someone over in the 4930 forum here who fried their CPU in a matter of months at 1.45-1.5V. I wouldn't abuse the Tuning Plan, as I said, if you just burn your chip up unnecessarily simply so you can replace it, you only get one replacement, and you might get a real under-performer AND you might actually burn up your replacement chip before the three years are up and be left footing the bill for another replacement CPU.

You can probably get 4.6GHz stable with the tweaks I mentioned in my previous post, at least Prime95 stable, which should be a measure of stability for 99% of applications and scenarios.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> it's ok, I hit a sore spot, I get it. What I said still stands tho!


I don't feel sore in any way. You did not hit any sore spot. I just take issue with sort of closed minded opinions, as well as those that appear to lack any education on the matter... Especially given that it has been eight months since the board was released, not to mention the fact that we have another six to nine months until Haswell-E is released, if at all... So to say that people are buying this board right before the next update is released is, to say the least, ridiculous... Given that the time between this board and the anticipated release of H-E is a year, not to mention that we will likely have to wait another year, at least, for a board of this class to be released...

Well, unless it is another 'high-class' board from EVGA... lol


----------



## [email protected]

Woah! Calm down guys. It's just a motherboard.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I don't feel sore in any way. You did not hit any sore spot. I just take issue with sort of closed minded opinions, as well as those that appear to lack any education on the matter... Especially given that it has been eight months since the board was released, not to mention the fact that we have another six to nine months until Haswell-E is released, if at all... So to say that people are buying this board right before the next update is released is, to say the least, ridiculous... Given that the time between this board and the anticipated release of H-E is a year, not to mention that we will likely have to wait another year, at least, for a board of this class to be released...
> 
> Well, unless it is another 'high-class' board from EVGA... lol


Actually we have seen engineering samples which usually indicates the new cpus will be out soon. Also according to intels plan the haswell-e is suppose to be released in mid september of 2014 with broadwell sometime in q1 of 2015. The ivy bridge e is a good chip and so is the rivbe and will last for awhile. Depending on your price range ivy bridge e is probably the best fit even with the haswell e about to be released. Ddr4 is new ram and the speeds are high and so is the latencys so it looks as though the first released ddr4 sticks will not only cost more but also be slower then ddr3. These are in no way facts but my conclusions based on others reviews and specs I have seen so far. Unless your going 8 core aka 5960x the $1000 cpu really no big benefit in jumping from ivy bridge e to haswell e besides the new chipset but it will be more cost it seems then its worth and waiting for the refresh of 2011-3 seems like a better way when prices stabilize unless your planning on benching or video editing. My 2 cents


----------



## b0x3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> I just had the second faulty RIVBE in a row.
> 
> The first one had issues with Pcie slots and (expecially) asmedia satas.
> .


What sort of issues were you getting? I thought mine was FUBAR but I realised I'd used a 3gb/s SATA lead instead of a 6bg/s one - used the ones supplied with the mobo and boom! massive performance increase and problems solved.


----------



## Mappi75

I had 4 Blacks:

*1 Board:*

mobo reboot during slight cpu usage (for example office 2013 installation)

*2 Board:*

CPU-Z did not regognized the cpu on the first run, it starts every time with a error message,
only on the second run it regognized the CPU.

Audio Noises with my Bose Companion 5 Soundsystem during booting the pc (on the windows desktop no noise).

*3 Board:*

All Games without v-sync are stuttering with 140 fps (or more for example Sleeping Dogs, Bioshshock 3)
the only solution was to enable V-Sync! (I am talking not about the tearing problem without v-sync!)

Audio Noises with my Bose Companion 5 Soundsystem during booting the pc (on the windows desktop no noise).

*4 Board:*

it was a used/returned mobo but it seems to be working now without problems. I hope so








But the prize was really great


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I'm a little annoyed that cpuz bugged out and the board gets replaced. That's a cpuz bug, nothing to do with the board. Digi+ Power Control is where you should of investigated for the slight cpu usage reboot.

The audio pop at start up and shut down is normal:
Quote:


> The relay is only for the HP output to the front panel (it's post the separated DAC and buffer stage at the lower side of the board). If you are using any other output, there will be no relay to lift the output until the circuit is fully active and stabilised. We'd need to add several relays to the board which would eat a lot of board real estate (as one can imagine). There is no universal output lift pin available on the codec to nullify all channels with a single relay unfortunately.-Raja


*http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44128-Rampage-IV-BE-audio-pop-at-power-on-or-resume-from-sleep*

The stuttering, who knows. I know I would have trouble shooted a bit more before I gave up.

Feel like I'm reading Newegg reviews...

This is a like a race car board, needs to be tuned.


----------



## b0x3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> I had 4 Blacks:
> 
> Audio Noises with my Bose Companion 5 Soundsystem during booting the pc (on the windows desktop no noise).


I get a bit of interference actually during startup, right at the beginning, and also just before it shuts down - bit weird but doesn't seem to do any harm

Just saw above reply - cool thanks mate


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> LLC is on High, my personal experience with LLC is that Extreme results in a .04V discrepancy between displayed and actual voltage. I am only Prime95 stable at this voltage, which is good enough for me, I am not experiencing BSOD with games or applications etc. Honestly I would dial back the voltage so that youre only Prime95 stable, who cares if some ultra-intensive benchmark results in a BSOD, if youre not getting them on a regular basis I don't see a problem. If you start getting BSOD while using the applications you normally use or playing certain game on the other hand, then you might want to return to stability testing with your preferred benchmark programs. For me, if its Prime95 stable, its nearly 100% stable for everything else.
> 
> But yeah, 1.48V is too much, you should get that down to 1.4V max as soon as possible. There is someone over in the 4930 forum here who fried their CPU in a matter of months at 1.45-1.5V. I wouldn't abuse the Tuning Plan, as I said, if you just burn your chip up unnecessarily simply so you can replace it, you only get one replacement, and you might get a real under-performer AND you might actually burn up your replacement chip before the three years are up and be left footing the bill for another replacement CPU.
> 
> You can probably get 4.6GHz stable with the tweaks I mentioned in my previous post, at least Prime95 stable, which should be a measure of stability for 99% of applications and scenarios.


tried these and about every other trick posted here. always end up at 1.38 for 4.5GHZ and 1.44 for 4.6. Tried with the memory at 800, 1600, 2 stick or 1 stick. The temps are rarely over 70 except prime95 where 2 cores end up at 72 or 73 degree. I'm not trying to burn anything, as an engineer I respect my hardware, and I'm more than accepting the fact that I lack the skills of others that think my results are funny. But even the CPU VID is asking for more voltage than what I set the Vcore for stability. H264 benchmark is just quicker to find it if is stable. Otherwise I'll get the same WHEA error in RealBench H264 decoding or the Physic test in firestrike/3dmark11.

Maybe I should try Cadaveca's suggestion and reflash the bios to the original one, then reapply 0602.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mappi75*
> 
> I had 4 Blacks:
> 
> *1 Board:*
> 
> mobo reboot during slight cpu usage (for example office 2013 installation)
> 
> *2 Board:*
> 
> CPU-Z did not regognized the cpu on the first run, it starts every time with a error message,
> only on the second run it regognized the CPU.
> 
> Audio Noises with my Bose Companion 5 Soundsystem during booting the pc (on the windows desktop no noise).
> 
> *3 Board:*
> 
> All Games without v-sync are stuttering with 140 fps (or more for example Sleeping Dogs, Bioshshock 3)
> the only solution was to enable V-Sync! (I am talking not about the tearing problem without v-sync!)
> 
> Audio Noises with my Bose Companion 5 Soundsystem during booting the pc (on the windows desktop no noise).
> 
> *4 Board:*
> 
> it was a used/returned mobo but it seems to be working now without problems. I hope so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the prize was really great


pretty much what mrtooshort said. I had random reboots just watching videos. Messing with the bios solved it. I had the same cpuz problem, gave an error and showed weird values. New version and or bios update fixed it. Audio pop, turn on external dac, amp, receiver after boot, or disconnect headphones during boot if worried about damage to cans or ears.
Stuttering problem is related to motherboard how? Gsync solves this problem.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> tried these and about every other trick posted here. always end up at *1.38 for 4.5GHZ and 1.44 for 4.6.* Tried with the memory at 800, 1600, 2 stick or 1 stick. The temps are rarely over 70 except prime95 where 2 cores end up at 72 or 73 degree. I'm not trying to burn anything, as an engineer I respect my hardware, and I'm more than accepting the fact that I lack the skills of others that think my results are funny. But even the CPU VID is asking for more voltage than what I set the Vcore for stability. H264 benchmark is just quicker to find it if is stable. Otherwise I'll get the same WHEA error in RealBench H264 decoding or the Physic test in firestrike/3dmark11.
> 
> Maybe I should try Cadaveca's suggestion and reflash the bios to the original one, then reapply 0602.


What MCE (whea) are you getting?

On average... AVERAGE... each 100MHz costs about 10mV per active core until you reach the cpu's ceiling (eg asymptote on the mV/Hz line) then it becomes non-linear and can cost more than 10mV. All other settings being reasonable, a jump of 60mV from 4.5 to 4.6 is just fine. Your CPU just has a high VID line at those frequencies. If you're hitting 73C on one core during p95 (ignore the initial temperature when you first fire-up the stress test - watch cpu temp during the small FFTs and ram temp during the large FFTs) with water cooling - that does seem a bit high. What TIM did you use and how did you apply it?
I think that with a high VID line CPU you should worry less about the vcore millivolts, and focus on temperature. It's a loose etching vs a tight etching thing most likely.
My









Reflashing is a good thing. you can also switch over to Bios2 and see if that is any better. It should be loaded with the launch bios.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> tried these and about every other trick posted here. always end up at 1.38 for 4.5GHZ and 1.44 for 4.6. Tried with the memory at 800, 1600, 2 stick or 1 stick. The temps are rarely over 70 except prime95 where 2 cores end up at 72 or 73 degree. I'm not trying to burn anything, as an engineer I respect my hardware, and I'm more than accepting the fact that I lack the skills of others that think my results are funny. But even the CPU VID is asking for more voltage than what I set the Vcore for stability. H264 benchmark is just quicker to find it if is stable. Otherwise I'll get the same WHEA error in RealBench H264 decoding or the Physic test in firestrike/3dmark11.
> 
> Maybe I should try Cadaveca's suggestion and reflash the bios to the original one, then reapply 0602.


There is slight differences between the Bioses that have been released, some have decided to stay with the original one others like myself have stayed with 0507!!

Other members have used the 0602 and flashed back to 0507, so its what your happy with and works for you.

You say you have adjusted most things, did you raise the CPU PLL VOLTAGE, or the CPU to 160% or 180%!!

Then there are other settings you could possible try out as well, but as you say it kinda boils down to how good of a CPU you got in the Silicone Lottery!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Feel like I'm reading Newegg reviews...
> 
> This is a like a race car board, needs to be tuned.


This is why I love Gigabyte's Z97 LN2 board. There's no confusion there, with no cooler mounts... no normal user is going to use it and then complain about basic issues.

Some ROG boards take time to release since it takes time to test and develop all those presets that are offered, as well as the automatic settings that get applied when you change clocks. That means testing a huge whack of CPUs to find average needs and extreme needs, many LN2 runs...it's all done before we get our hands on a board like this, and I for one don't mind waiting a bit for a quality product, new stuff around the corner or not.

I mean, who cares? So I gotta spend more money every year if I want to stay up with the latest and greatest? Oh, the horror!


----------



## dboythagr8

Got this board today along with a 4930k. It will be paired with 3 Titan Blacks. I'm pretty excited. I'm coming from Z68+2600K...my first step into the "E" line. Will start building tomorrow as I am waiting on some white sleeved PSU cables to arrive.

Any suggestions for a newbie to this board and X79 in general?


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Got this board today along with a 4930k. It will be paired with 3 Titan Blacks. I'm pretty excited. I'm coming from Z68+2600K...my first step into the "E" line. Will start building tomorrow as I am waiting on some white sleeved PSU cables to arrive.
> 
> Any suggestions for a newbie to this board and X79 in general?


Looks to be a interesting set up you have there, if you get things sorted, please come back to us here, and we will try to help out!!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> There is slight differences between the Bioses that have been released, some have decided to stay with the original one others like myself have stayed with 0507!!
> 
> Other members have used the 0602 and flashed back to 0507, so its what your happy with and works for you.
> 
> You say you have adjusted most things, did you raise the CPU PLL VOLTAGE, or the CPU to 160% or 180%!!
> 
> Then there are other settings you could possible try out as well, but as you say it kinda boils down to how good of a CPU you got in the Silicone Lottery!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


I get the WHEA parity error.

Tried PLL at 1.825, 1.85 and 1.9. Current capability is not an issue as I don't have an OCP shutdown. Also tried VCCSA and VTT at 1.15v or 1.2v. Maybe I'll flip it back to the original bios to see if it makes a difference.

As for the TIM, I used MX2 in a pea size. I now have some MX4 and GElid ex to try. But the CPU is wedge to the Chipset and mosfet water block since I used short 90 degree fitting for a clean look.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I get the WHEA parity error.
> 
> Tried PLL at 1.825, 1.85 and 1.9. Current capability is not an issue as I don't have an OCP shutdown. Also tried VCCSA and VTT at 1.15v or 1.2v. Maybe I'll flip it back to the original bios to see if it makes a difference.
> 
> As for the TIM, I used MX2 in a pea size. I now have some MX4 and GElid ex to try. But the CPU is wedge to the Chipset and mosfet water block since I used short 90 degree fitting for a clean look.


whea parity.. remind me, what are your ram settings?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I'm a little annoyed that cpuz bugged out and the board gets replaced. That's a cpuz bug, nothing to do with the board. Digi+ Power Control is where you should of investigated for the slight cpu usage reboot.
> The audio pop at start up and shut down is normal:
> *http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44128-Rampage-IV-BE-audio-pop-at-power-on-or-resume-from-sleep*
> The stuttering, who knows. I know I would have trouble shooted a bit more before I gave up.
> *Feel like I'm reading Newegg reviews...*
> This is a like a race car board, needs to be tuned.












perfect!


----------



## gow3

My Rampage IV Extreme is suffering from i-ROG2 problems and can't seem to get out of the loop. I've had enough with this board so I'm changing to a Rampage IV Black. Should I know anything before I Install it? I did try to change BIOS physically, flashed it but it seems to have died now...

My Specs are :

i7 3930k
32 GB G.Skillz Ram
3 x EVGA GTX 670 SuperClocked
2 x SSDs (Samsung and Intel)


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> whea parity.. remind me, what are your ram settings?


4X8GB that I run at 2133, 11,13,13,31 1.65v.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> 4X8GB that I run at 2133, 11,13,13,31 1.65v.


probably not the issue - those are stock timings or tweaked? Machine check error - parity (eg, checksum did not match) can be the CPU OC... or memory sending "drifting" feed to the cpu. put a clean USB key in and post with the settings that are giving you trouble. Hit F12 on each bios page (scroll where needed) then zip the picture set and post 'em here.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> probably not the issue - those are stock timings or tweaked? Machine check error - parity (eg, checksum did not match) can be the CPU OC... or memory sending "drifting" feed to the cpu. put a clean USB key in and post with the settings that are giving you trouble. Hit F12 on each bios page (scroll where needed) then zip the picture set and post 'em here.


A big +1 to this idea!!

Also with your Ram settings did you use the XMP SETTING or did you enter them yourself by hand????

The reason is some members have had problems with the XMP setting there Ram correctly then found out that after they had set this by hand into the Bios it cleared there problems!!

Did you check the timings in your CPU-Z for the Ram you have, also in the SPD SECTION in the Bios it will tell you all the correct XMP Timings.

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Zimzoid

Oh my god! A new bios guys 603 (Enhance compatibility with some USB device)


----------



## dboythagr8

Should I update to new BIOS tomorrow when I set up my machine?


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Should I update to new BIOS tomorrow when I set up my machine?


Might pay to let others be the guinea pigs hehehe...602 is working perfect for me at present.


----------



## vulcan78

Lol, sounds like someone from Asus IS monitoring this forum, if you go back about 10-15 pages you'll find a string of posts in a row all complaining about the USB 3.0 cut-out issue on this board.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Lol, sounds like someone from Asus IS monitoring this forum, if you go back about 10-15 pages you'll find a string of posts in a row all complaining about the USB 3.0 cut-out issue on this board.


Lol, you realize that @[email protected] has @ASUS in his name because he works for them right? He's pretty active and helpful in this thread as well as the rog forums


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Should I update to new BIOS tomorrow when I set up my machine?


for a new build - yes. there a re two bios slots on this mobo.you can always drop back to the shipping bios if needed. bu i doubt it.

@[email protected] - any thing else besides USB compatibility??


----------



## stebbiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Any suggestions for a newbie to this board and X79 in general?


Here's a thread: "ASUS Rampage IV Extreme - UEFI Guide for Overclocking" on Asus' ROG Forum I found helpful.

I also liked the 



.

Might also read the X79 Overclocking Guide on OCUK.


----------



## Nunzi

New bios is looking good

No problems yet ! first time updating bios coming from 0403


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> A big +1 to this idea!!
> 
> Also with your Ram settings did you use the XMP SETTING or did you enter them yourself by hand????
> 
> The reason is some members have had problems with the XMP setting there Ram correctly then found out that after they had set this by hand into the Bios it cleared there problems!!
> 
> Did you check the timings in your CPU-Z for the Ram you have, also in the SPD SECTION in the Bios it will tell you all the correct XMP Timings.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


I use manual mode and enter the timing manually based on the SPD in the bios, ignoring the crazy entry that put the CAS at 10,12,12,28 from 11,13,13,32 on the other profile.

I tried the original bios last night at 4500MHz first and got a bit lower voltage and lower temps. I'll get the BIOS screen shot later tonight and share. Maybe the reflashing of ROG-1 and ROG-2 when switching bios helps clear up some stuff. But I still ended up at 1.376v to be stable at 45x. Got some watchdog timeout and a code 06 which cleared out with VCCSA at 1.24v instead of 1.2v. LLC is at high also... we'll see. Thanks for helping guys. I really hope that I'm just missing some settings but I'll stand by "it got a be stable when encoding h264 stuff".

Most of the blue screen when I lower the voltage by 0.004 on the extra turbo voltage are un-correctable WHEA type.

As for changing the TIM on the CPU I'll wait till I get a few more fittings figured out to put some quick disconnect around that area. Bleeding this thing painful.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I use manual mode and enter the timing manually based on the SPD in the bios, ignoring the crazy entry that put the CAS at 10,12,12,28 from 11,13,13,32 on the other profile.
> 
> I tried the original bios last night at 4500MHz first and got a bit lower voltage and lower temps. I'll get the BIOS screen shot later tonight and share. Maybe the reflashing of ROG-1 and ROG-2 when switching bios helps clear up some stuff. But I still ended up at 1.376v to be stable at 45x. Got some watchdog timeout and a code 06 which cleared out with VCCSA at 1.24v instead of 1.2v. LLC is at high also... we'll see. Thanks for helping guys. I really hope that I'm just missing some settings but I'll stand by "it got a be stable when encoding h264 stuff".
> 
> Most of the blue screen when I lower the voltage by 0.004 on the extra turbo voltage are un-correctable WHEA type.
> 
> As for changing the TIM on the CPU I'll wait till I get a few more fittings figured out to put some quick disconnect around that area. *Bleeding this thing painful*.


ugh... hope you don't need to. There's always an alternative... "geeze it just broke and I'll just have to use my Intel tuning plan"


----------



## Kimir

That's one thing I won't have to worry if I ever get my CPU replaced, with the QDC everywhere I can remove anything without the need to bleed the whole loop.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> ugh... hope you don't need to. There's always an alternative... "geeze it just broke and I'll just have to use my Intel tuning plan"


Here's my bios settings:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















This last one compare som values set by XMP VS manual.





If I lower turbo voltage from here I get the WHEA BSOD.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nunzi*
> 
> New bios is looking good
> 
> No problems yet ! first time updating bios coming from 0403


Any difference in minimum VCORE required for OC'ing? This is the main thing that kept me away from switching to 0602 from 0507 although I have heard that the increased voltage required isn't the issue, the amperage is and that is reduced with 0602.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That's one thing I won't have to worry if I ever get my CPU replaced, with the QDC everywhere I can remove anything without the need to bleed the whole loop.


same here - i think I over use QDCs.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> Here's my bios settings:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one compare som values set by XMP VS manual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I lower turbo voltage from here I get the WHEA BSOD.


Okay - thanks., If you're willing.... First, let's simplify things considerably - zero base the system. It just seems that too many settings are tweaked for a 4.5 OC.
clrcmos!
pic# change
1 strap to 100
2 xtreme tweaking - enabled, cpu vtt and 2nd VTT to AUTO
3 vsa to AUTO, CPU PLL to AUTO
4 rampage tweak to MODE 3... set 11-13-13-31-2T-313 (all other settings to AUTO) are those the SPD timings??
5-9 ALL AUTO
10 cpu current to AUTO (=140% which is plenty for a 15% (4.5) OC)
11 okay, but you can set pch to auto from 1.3x at this point.
12 - we'll adjust additional turbo once we see how this performs.

load up, post and boot to windows, start cpuZ quickly - what;'s the windows load voltage? (or if you have a DMM, win load mV come on right after the audio switch clicks.

let's work thru a few changes, and if it continues to be a problem, I'd try a fixed vcore of ~1.3V with 45x100

btw - do you have a 4.4 or 4.3 that is stable?


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> same here - i think I over use QDCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay - thanks., If you're willing.... First, let's simplify things considerably - zero base the system. It just seems that too many settings are tweaked for a 4.5 OC.
> clrcmos!
> pic# change
> 1 strap to 100
> 2 xtreme tweaking - enabled, cpu vtt and 2nd VTT to AUTO
> 3 vsa to AUTO, CPU PLL to AUTO
> 4 rampage tweak to MODE 3... set 11-13-13-31-2T-313 (all other settings to AUTO) are those the SPD timings??
> 5-9 ALL AUTO
> 10 cpu current to AUTO (=140% which is plenty for a 15% (4.5) OC)
> 11 okay, but you can set pch to auto from 1.3x at this point.
> 12 - we'll adjust additional turbo once we see how this performs.
> 
> load up, post and boot to windows, start cpuZ quickly - what;'s the windows load voltage? (or if you have a DMM, win load mV come on right after the audio switch clicks.
> 
> let's work thru a few changes, and if it continues to be a problem, I'd try a fixed vcore of ~1.3V with 45x100
> 
> btw - do you have a 4.4 or 4.3 that is stable?


3. yes these are from SPD.

4.4 stable is eazy, 4.5 also if I give it 1.388v. I'm on bios 0403 right now and 0602 on the second one.
Whihc one should we work with?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> 3. yes these are from SPD.
> 
> 4.4 stable is eazy, 4.5 also if I give it 1.388v. I'm on bios 0403 right now and 0602 on the second one.
> Whihc one should we work with?


either is fine. so, with 5mV in offset and 24mV in turbo, the chip is getting 1,388V with 45x100??

what are your offset and turbo for 4.4 and what load mV does it get (even the win load volts id good to know at this point)


----------



## vulcan78

Hey guys, I am picking up a 2nd EVGA 780 Ti SC w/ACX soon and I faintly remember a conversation here about how running greater BCLK, say 102 or 105 etc. results in better SLI performance than with BCLK at 100. Anyone care to elaborate? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> either is fine. so, with 5mV in offset and 24mV in turbo, the chip is getting 1,388V with 45x100??
> 
> what are your offset and turbo for 4.4 and what load mV does it get (even the win load volts id good to know at this point)


VDD measures 1.39v before I log into windows.
At 44 I get a VID of 1.351v and a Vcore at 1.36V, still on the 24mv turboV/offset at 5mv. I just rebooted with 44 multiplicator. If I look at my notes for 44 I was using an offset of -80mv to run at 1.292v under load.

100X39 = 1.18V
100X43 = 1.228V
100X44 = 1.292Vcore, VID ask for 1.331v

Note that these values where only tested with prime95 small fft.

edit: now I can get 4.5 stable at 1.36VCore with the VID at 1.34v but i'm running the memory at 1600.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> VDD measures 1.39v before I log into windows.
> At 44 I get a VID of 1.351v and a Vcore at 1.36V, still on the 24mv turboV/offset at 5mv. I just rebooted with 44 multiplicator. If I look at my notes for 44 I was using an offset of -80mv to run at 1.292v under load.
> 
> 100X39 = 1.18V
> 100X43 = 1.228V
> 100X44 = 1.292Vcore, VID ask for 1.331v
> 
> Note that these values where only tested with prime95 small fft.


VDD?
you should ignore the VID, your 100x44 is an example of vcore/stability not correlating with the CPU VID line. Focus on vcore, temperatures and stability. Have you made the suggested changes?
gotta watch this stanley cup ot...








(will be off line until AM ET)


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> VDD?
> you should ignore the VID, your 100x44 is an example of vcore/stability not correlating with the CPU VID line. Focus on vcore, temperatures and stability. Have you made the suggested changes?
> gotta watch this stanley cup ot...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (will be off line until AM ET)


I think I've applied all of the suggestion. I meant DMM measures 1.39v before I log into windows, not VDD (Voltmetre Digital in french)..


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

103.3 x 44 ..try it!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Actually we have seen engineering samples which usually indicates the new cpus will be out soon. Also according to intels plan the haswell-e is suppose to be released in mid september of 2014 with broadwell sometime in q1 of 2015. The ivy bridge e is a good chip and so is the rivbe and will last for awhile. Depending on your price range ivy bridge e is probably the best fit even with the haswell e about to be released.


Given that this board was released in October/November, I think that saying a year is reasonable. That is just my thought. It's all about semantics though...


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Any difference in minimum VCORE required for OC'ing? This is the main thing that kept me away from switching to 0602 from 0507 although I have heard that the increased voltage required isn't the issue, the amperage is and that is reduced with 0602.


Running the same settings as 0403 bios 1.29 in bios 1.28 under load for 4.6g

so far so good!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I think I've applied all of the suggestion. I meant DMM measures 1.39v before I log into windows, not VDD (Voltmetre Digital in french)..


ah VDD - sorry. So what did you find with the settings?


----------



## asfgbdnf

http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/HelpDesk_Download/
New BIOS is out.


----------



## Ajay57

Will monitor this thread plus the other one for the Mobo to see what the results everyone is getting, especially using a 4960X CPU!!









So any up dates or overclocking Info would be great to hear about!!!









Thanks,

AJ.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Will monitor this thread plus the other one for the Mobo to see what the results everyone is getting, especially using a 4960X CPU!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So any up dates or overclocking Info would be great to hear about!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> AJ.


what do you want to know? voltage needed to reach specific clock?


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> what do you want to know? voltage needed to reach specific clock?


Thanks for the reply, just checking out if its really worth changing i am using 0507 and its working fine!!









Just thinking "if's it not broken no need to change things" The reason is i have jumped right in before and things went really bad on me here!









So now i take my time and ask questions, before i change anything, so any change for a 4.5 OC!! in voltages etc.









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

I think 603 has a fix for the USB issues that were posted about earlier in this thread...

Anything else new with 603??


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> ah VDD - sorry. So what did you find with the settings?


I can get 1.36 for 100x45. Anything under that I get mostly Unrecov WHEA and a few RTC Watchdog timeout.. That would indicate that 100x46 wouldn't work under 1.42v. I tried the 44x103 or 44x102.5 but it's all landing on the same voltage. I just think I have a high voltage CPU. feels like it like a GPU with a low quality ASIC like my 2 GTX780TI at 65% quality.

Could it be less stable because I don't use a fixed voltage?


----------



## b0x3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> USB issues that were posted about earlier in this thread...


where is this I can't find it? I was having probs with the USB 3.0 rear ports some devices (such as headset) kept dropping / reconnecting


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I can get 1.36 for 100x45. Anything under that I get mostly Unrecov WHEA and a few RTC Watchdog timeout.. That would indicate that 100x46 wouldn't work under 1.42v. I tried the 44x103 or 44x102.5 but it's all landing on the same voltage. I just think I have a high voltage CPU. feels like it like a GPU with a low quality ASIC like my 2 GTX780TI at 65% quality.
> 
> Could it be less stable because I don't use a fixed voltage?


In that case i would go for 100 x 44 with the lowest and most STABLE VCORE possible, because unless your doing Benchmarks its really hard to see the difference of 100Hz in everyday use!!









My 4930K was no better than yours after 44 x 100 it just fell off a cliff, and no amount of Vcore would make it OC any higher, bottom 10% on the silicone lottery.









That is why i purchased this tested and fully binned 4960X CPU much better now than before!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Kimir

He could stay at 45 with that 1.36v for years too, he is still keeping it lower than the so feared 1.4v.


----------



## andom

So, I've had this motherboard for about 3 months now, and around during the time Watch Dogs came out, my computer has been randomly restarting without giving a BSOD.

I've googled the problem, and it seems to be a common issue with this motherboard based on the RoG forums. I've played with a lot of settings, but I've tinkered with so many different combinations that I simply cannot remember what I have done anymore

Here are my specs:

i7-4820k
Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M2A1866C9 16 GB 1866 MHz
GTX 680 SLI
Samsung 840 pro 1 TB
Seasonic 1000W Platinum

Any help would be appreciated in terms of resolving these random restarts. Right now, I am running on complete default settings and it's still restarting once in a while. I'm thinking of RMAing, but if I can avoid that just by tweaking the right settings, it would be better.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

^^^

Set cpu current capability to 180%.

It's in the DIGI+ section


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I can get 1.36 for 100x45. Anything under that I get mostly Unrecov WHEA and a few RTC Watchdog timeout.. That would indicate that 100x46 wouldn't work under 1.42v. I tried the 44x103 or 44x102.5 but it's all landing on the same voltage. I just think I have a high voltage CPU. feels like it like a GPU with a low quality ASIC like my 2 GTX780TI at 65% quality.
> 
> Could it be less stable because I don't use a fixed voltage?


not sure about less stable with offset... it wants the voltage it wants. But you never know. try a fixed cvore and see if it behaves better. you know it needs 1.36V for 4.5. set it to like 1.365 with high (or medium) LLC and it should droop to 1.36. As kimir said - you can stary at 1.36V for a good long time!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0x3d*
> 
> where is this I can't find it? I was having probs with the USB 3.0 rear ports some devices (such as headset) kept dropping / reconnecting


you have to go back a few days. i think like ealry-mid week.


----------



## asfgbdnf

asus sucks, what kind of change log this is!?"Enhance compatibility with some USB device." "Improve system stability."
they are too lazy to compile a detailed list.


----------



## b0x3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> Set cpu current capability to 180%.
> 
> It's in the DIGI+ section


why would this help?


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0x3d*
> 
> why would this help?


if the system just shut down, it would point to the max current being exceeded.
But if everything is running at stock speed it should not be the issue. Also Watch Dog might be happier with the latest beta driver from Nvidia.
If you changed so many settings without keeping track, F5 save and start over. Do you have the issue with everything at stock? But a sudden shutdown is OCP related and increasing the cpu current capability to 180% like MrTooShort suggested would rule that out.


----------



## b0x3d

i see thanks - would it be the same with sound loop crashes / freezes that need to be hard reset?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> Set cpu current capability to 180%.
> 
> It's in the DIGI+ section
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *b0x3d*
> 
> why would this help?
Click to expand...

The CC setting at stock (Auto) on the RIVBE is 140%, but some CPUs will need it set to more than that. It won't hurt anything setting it that high since CC just allows the CPU to pull more amperage only if it needs it. CPU current is pulled instead of pushed.

Search this thread for "180%" and you will see it's been brought up over and over.


----------



## dboythagr8

Guys I need some help. So I installed my new system, pressed power button on the case and everything came on fine. I installed Windows and all of that. I was checking things out and saw that it was only reporting 12GB of RAM...I have 16GB. So I shut down the machine, unplugged the PSU cable, and took out two sticks (trying to find which stick could be the problem). When I plugged the PSU cable back in and flipped the switch, the mobo lights were on as usual(are they supposed to be on when the system is not?)...the ROG symbol flashing, start button illuminated, etc. Ok so now I have two sticks in the board on the right side. I press the power button and....nothing. I press the Start button on the board. Nothing. I un plug everything again and put the two sticks back in. Nothing. Everything is default I have not made any adjustments. Like I said before the shutdown and RAM removal I was able to navigate to BIOS, get to desktop etc. Nothing unusual....

What is going on here, can somebody please help me out









Here is a pic of the mobo when system is off


----------



## andom

I read that memory settings can also cause the restarts on the rog forums. Is there anything I should change? I'll let you know if changing the current to 180% makes a difference when I get home.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Guys I need some help. So I installed my new system, pressed power button on the case and everything came on fine. I installed Windows and all of that. I was checking things out and saw that it was only reporting 12GB of RAM...I have 16GB. So I shut down the machine, unplugged the PSU cable, and took out two sticks (trying to find which stick could be the problem). When I plugged the PSU cable back in and flipped the switch, the mobo lights were on as usual(are they supposed to be on when the system is not?)...the ROG symbol flashing, start button illuminated, etc. Ok so now I have two sticks in the board on the right side. I press the power button and....nothing. I press the Start button on the board. Nothing. I un plug everything again and put the two sticks back in. Nothing. Everything is default I have not made any adjustments. Like I said before the shutdown and RAM removal I was able to navigate to BIOS, get to desktop etc. Nothing unusual....
> 
> What is going on here, can somebody please help me out


I'm just guessing here, but perhaps you had the ram in the wrong slots for the # of sticks you had installed? From p 1-11 of the manual:


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm just guessing here, but perhaps you had the ram in the wrong slots for the # of sticks you had installed? From p 1-11 of the manual:


I have it setup like #3. I have 4 sticks. It booted fine on first try. I took memory out however, and did not re arrange for two sticks like the picture. Instead I left it as is (the DIMMS on the right side in their same config). Pressed power and nothing. I put the sticks on the left back in their same place press power nothing. I put it back EXACTLY how it was on first boot and not it doesn't do anything. Pressing power button on case or on board does nothing.

I'm trying really hard not to flip out. I took the GPU out and tried again same thing. Something probably broke, great. Are these motherboard lights supposed to be on before you press power:


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> not sure about less stable with offset... it wants the voltage it wants. But you never know. try a fixed cvore and see if it behaves better. you know it needs 1.36V for 4.5. set it to like 1.365 with high (or medium) LLC and it should droop to 1.36. As kimir said - you can stary at 1.36V for a good long time!


So I installed the latest BIOS. Started over the overclock with minimal changes from Auto. First thing I noticed is that this bios reads the SPD properly. I first tried with manual VCore and landed at 1,344v with little spike at 1.360v under x264 load.

Saved that in a profile and switched back to offset mode, aiming for the same vcore. I landed at offset -5mv (yes negative 5mv) and tubo voltage at 0.04 for a load voltage of 1.344v. I'm happy! +1 rep @Jpmboy for helping me out and actually reading true my bios screen.

I entered the Primary and secondary timings that shows up in the Bios SPD tab. I get the feeling that the issue was mentioned before by Cadaveca or was it [email protected], that if you push a particular rail too high, it can steal potential (volts) from the adjacent rail like VTT or VCCSA and cause instability. Maybe this is now managed better in the new bios cause I never got this to work under 1.378v before..

edit: that's 100x45, 4X8GB memory at 2133Mhz.


----------



## andom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> Set cpu current capability to 180%.
> 
> It's in the DIGI+ section


Okay, I tried that

All stock settings, nothing else tweaked except current capability and it's still restarting.

Here's the funny part. If I run prime95 and push the CPU, it seems to be fine. However, if I run the Metro Last Light benchmark, it usually crashes within the first 5 seconds.


----------



## dboythagr8

Ok it's booting up now. But still it looks like I have a dead DIMM slot, D1 to be exact. Showing A1, B1, and, C1 posting in BIOS for a total of 12GB. Ugh.

This is why I bought the board from Microcenter...will take it back tomorrow and exchange. If I had to ship it back to Newegg I would've been pissed...


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Ok it's booting up now. But still it looks like I have a dead DIMM slot, D1 to be exact. Showing A1, B1, and, C1 posting in BIOS for a total of 12GB. Ugh.
> 
> This is why I bought the board from Microcenter...will take it back tomorrow and exchange. If I had to ship it back to Newegg I would've been pissed...


And if you swap D1 and C1 it is still D1 that's missing? So you can tell for sure it's not the RAM...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> Okay, I tried that
> 
> All stock settings, nothing else tweaked except current capability and it's still restarting.
> 
> Here's the funny part. If I run prime95 and push the CPU, it seems to be fine. However, if I run the Metro Last Light benchmark, it usually crashes within the first 5 seconds.


So it's just the screen that goes black? Are you overclocking the GPU? or try re-installing the GFX drivers. Also check connection for the PCI power to the graphics.

On the MOBO, it's also better to connect the 4PIN Molex power connector at the bottom of the MB. the 4pin and the 8 pin at the top.


----------



## andom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> And if you swap D1 and C1 it is still D1 that's missing? So you can tell for sure it's not the RAM...
> So it's just the screen that goes black? Are you overclocking the GPU? or try re-installing the GFX drivers. Also check connection for the PCI power to the graphics.
> 
> On the MOBO, it's also better to connect the 4PIN Molex power connector at the bottom of the MB. the 4pin and the 8 pin at the top.


No, the computer fully shuts off then starts again. Sorry - shouldn't have used the word crashed.

I'll connect the molex at the bottom and see if it makes a difference.

Edit: wait, so connect the 4 pin, 8 pin, and molex altogether?


----------



## Mega Man

the way i see it, if it has it you should use it !


----------



## andom

Went through 5 runs of the Metro LL benchmark @ stock settings with the exception of the 180% current.

I think the extra 4-pin and molex helped me.... because before I only had the 8-pin. Let's see how well this holds up overclocked.

Thanks a lot! I guess a single 8-pin isn't sufficient for this board?


----------



## Mega Man

isnt amazing that so many people like to tell you "1 8pin" is sufficient yet it seems asus does know what it is doing...


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> So, I've had this motherboard for about 3 months now, and around during the time Watch Dogs came out, my computer has been randomly restarting without giving a BSOD.
> 
> I've googled the problem, and it seems to be a common issue with this motherboard based on the RoG forums. I've played with a lot of settings, but I've tinkered with so many different combinations that I simply cannot remember what I have done anymore
> 
> Here are my specs:
> 
> i7-4820k
> Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M2A1866C9 16 GB 1866 MHz
> GTX 680 SLI
> Samsung 840 pro 1 TB
> Seasonic 1000W Platinum
> 
> Any help would be appreciated in terms of resolving these random restarts. Right now, I am running on complete default settings and it's still restarting once in a while. I'm thinking of RMAing, but if I can avoid that just by tweaking the right settings, it would be better.


+1 Mr. Too Short.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> Set cpu current capability to 180%.
> 
> It's in the DIGI+ section


^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> asus sucks, what kind of change log this is!?"Enhance compatibility with some USB device." "Improve system stability."
> they are too lazy to compile a detailed list.


Yeah that's what I'm saying! Anything else? Specifics?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> Okay, I tried that
> 
> All stock settings, nothing else tweaked except current capability and it's still restarting.
> 
> Here's the funny part. If I run prime95 and push the CPU, it seems to be fine. However, if I run the Metro Last Light benchmark, it usually crashes within the first 5 seconds.


On top of setting "CPU Current Capability" to 170% be sure to change "Current Inush Inertia" to "enabled", this value is also in the Digi+ section in BIOS, below "CPU Current Capability".

http://rog.asus.com/305492014/rampage-motherboards/memory-overclocking-guide-for-rampage-iv-black-edition-beginner-to-advanced/3/

(bottom of page under "Other Tips")

Before doing this I too was getting full system shutdowns (no BSOD). 170% is the starting point, you can dial it back, while monitoring wattage drawn with CoreTemp in Prime95 I was a bit concerned with seeing peaks of 185 W so I dialed it back to 160% and it is stable at 4.6GHz (no real reduction in peak wattage drawn, maybe 5 W).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Ok it's booting up now. But still it looks like I have a dead DIMM slot, D1 to be exact. Showing A1, B1, and, C1 posting in BIOS for a total of 12GB. Ugh.
> 
> This is why I bought the board from Microcenter...will take it back tomorrow and exchange. If I had to ship it back to Newegg I would've been pissed...


Have you tried switching out the memory module out of D1 to rule out a defective memory module? Do that first if you haven't already gone for an exchange.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> Went through 5 runs of the Metro LL benchmark @ stock settings with the exception of the 180% current.
> 
> I think the extra 4-pin and molex helped me.... because before I only had the 8-pin. Let's see how well this holds up overclocked.
> 
> Thanks a lot! I guess a single 8-pin isn't sufficient for this board?


When I first put my PC together the first few days went by without the 4 pin molex on the bottom of the mobo connected, for a while I thought it was an optional power out for say an additional GPU lol! Curious I did some digging and found out that it can help with power issues if multiple memory channels are occupied and at 1.650V and over a certain frequency. Before looking this up I was very worried that experimenting with plugging it into the PSU would result in some kind of dramatic explosion on the motherboard, with sparks flying everywhere and maybe blowing a transformer outside (like in the movies) lol!


----------



## vulcan78

My second EVGA 780 Ti SC w/ACX is arriving in a few days, I know a few of you guys are running 780 Ti SLI and I was wondering if you could assist me with getting it powered up correctly. Currently the six-pin power connector has two additional molex plugs on it that I was thinking of simply connecting to the additional GPU but I have heard that I need to actually run an entirely separate 6 pin power cable all the way back to the PSU to avoid power starvation problems, is this correct?


----------



## b0x3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> When I first put my PC together the first few days went by without the 4 pin molex on the bottom of the mobo connected, for a while I thought it was an optional power out for say an additional GPU lol! Curious I did some digging and found out that it can help with power issues if multiple memory channels are occupied and at 1.650V and over a certain frequency. Before looking this up I was very worried that experimenting with plugging it into the PSU would result in some kind of dramatic explosion on the motherboard, with sparks flying everywhere and maybe blowing a transformer outside (like in the movies) lol!


Even though I would like to, I'm not using the molex connector at the bottom, because my case has a bar in the way as part of the mobo tray which blocks it. Considered sawing it off with a junior hacksaw. In fact still considering it. But will probably wait until I upgrade the case and go tri-fire. For the moment my CF 290x's seem ok without it plugged in.

Quick question on this connector - the metal strip that runs over the top through the middle, does this carry any current or is it just decoration? Reason I ask is because I stupidly thought the black housing was a cap and needed to be removed to access the molex pins. The graphic in the manual doesn't clearly show it's at a right angle like the sata ports. I couldn't be bothered to unplug everything including gfx cards etc. and therefore it was quite tricky to get to, so I tried to pull it off with pliers. It obviously wouldn't budge because it's part of the mobo, but the pliers slipped and I scratched the plastic housing and the metal strip. Hoping it's just superficial damage. Lesson learned, check this forum before doing anything!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> So I installed the latest BIOS. Started over the overclock with minimal changes from Auto. First thing I noticed is that this bios reads the SPD properly. I first tried with manual VCore and landed at *1,344v with little spike at 1.360v under x264 load.*
> 
> Saved that in a profile and switched back to offset mode, aiming for the same vcore. I landed at offset -5mv (yes negative 5mv) and tubo voltage at 0.04 for a load voltage of 1.344v. I'm happy! +1 rep @Jpmboy for helping me out and actually reading true my bios screen.
> 
> I entered the Primary and secondary timings that shows up in the Bios SPD tab. I get the feeling that the issue was mentioned before by Cadaveca or was it [email protected], *that if you push a particular rail too high, it can steal potential (volts) from the adjacent rail* like VTT or VCCSA and cause instability. Maybe this is now managed better in the new bios cause I never got this to work under 1.378v before..
> 
> edit: that's 100x45, 4X8GB memory at 2133Mhz.










Very happy it sorted out!!
Is the 1.344 ->1.36V with LLC high?
Yes - these are not completely independent of one another.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0x3d*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> When I first put my PC together the first few days went by without the 4 pin molex on the bottom of the mobo connected, for a while I thought it was an optional power out for say an additional GPU lol! Curious I did some digging and found out that it can help with power issues if multiple memory channels are occupied and at 1.650V and over a certain frequency. Before looking this up I was very worried that experimenting with plugging it into the PSU would result in some kind of dramatic explosion on the motherboard, with sparks flying everywhere and maybe blowing a transformer outside (like in the movies) lol!
> 
> 
> 
> Even though I would like to, I'm not using the molex connector at the bottom, because my case has a bar in the way as part of the mobo tray which blocks it. Considered sawing it off with a junior hacksaw. In fact still considering it. But will probably wait until I upgrade the case and go tri-fire. For the moment my CF 290x's seem ok without it plugged in.
> 
> Quick question on this connector - the metal strip that runs over the top through the middle, does this carry any current or is it just decoration? Reason I ask is because I stupidly thought the black housing was a cap and needed to be removed to access the molex pins. The graphic in the manual doesn't clearly show it's at a right angle like the sata ports. I couldn't be bothered to unplug everything including gfx cards etc. and therefore it was quite tricky to get to, so I tried to pull it off with pliers. It obviously wouldn't budge because it's part of the mobo, but the pliers slipped and I scratched the plastic housing and the metal strip. Hoping it's just superficial damage. Lesson learned, check this forum before doing anything!
Click to expand...

no it doesnt, it is just support . at worst it is connected to the ground which still wont hurt


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> My second EVGA 780 Ti SC w/ACX is arriving in a few days, I know a few of you guys are running 780 Ti SLI and I was wondering if you could assist me with getting it powered up correctly. Currently the six-pin power connector has two additional molex plugs on it that I was thinking of simply connecting to the additional GPU but I have heard that I need to actually run an entirely separate 6 pin power cable all the way back to the PSU to avoid power starvation problems, is this correct?


This is how it should look with 2 x PCI-E CABLES Plugged into both 780TI's, so that is 4 x Cables in all to supply the proper power!!









Also you will need the MOLEX Connected as well to help supply 12v and 5v to the cards!!

















Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Nilsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> This is how it should look with 2 x PCI-E CABLES Plugged into both 780TI's, so that is 4 x Cables in all to supply the proper power!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also you will need the MOLEX Connected as well to help supply 12v and 5v to the cards!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Very nice man!!!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> Went through 5 runs of the Metro LL benchmark @ stock settings with the exception of the 180% current.
> 
> I think the extra 4-pin and molex helped me.... because before I only had the 8-pin. Let's see how well this holds up overclocked.
> 
> Thanks a lot! I guess a single 8-pin isn't sufficient for this board?


8-pin is enough, it's the funky BIOS current settings that are screwing with ya. We've kind of gone over this issue since the board released. Newer BIOS should help fix that for you. You can also try dropping to 140%, although my own chip doesn't like less than 170% when pushing an OC.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> isnt amazing that so many people like to tell you "1 8pin" is sufficient yet it seems asus does know what it is doing...


8-pin EPS can supply 374W. Only LN2 might need additional 4-pin, while for daily use, it merely reduces the current pulled through each of the power plugs.

When I ran into this issue, I found that were actually two problems..one was the current setting, the other that caused similar behavior, was my PSU. The PSU ended up dying curing an OC session, at idle, and since replacing my PSU and adjusting CPU current settings, I haven't had a reboot in months.


----------



## Jpmboy

If you are using 2 graphics cards, you really need to connect the 4-pin molex to power that rail... otherwise, especially if you are pushing 2 new(er) cards (or even older GTX) check the 24 pin ATX connector temperatures since it will now pull power from that. They used to melt in the "old days".


----------



## webhito

The time has come for me to bother you folks again.

A while back I purchased some ek 290x waterblocks, a triple serial terminal and a blank, sadly the blank they sent was not the one I needed, and apparenly the screws that I was supposed to have with the gpu blocks aren't there either. What I need is a part number from performance pcs and the type of screws I need ( 3 in total I believe ).

The Blank I need I believe is this one :http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/23135/ex-blc-1666.jpg/ex-blc-1666/_EK-FC_Terminal_BLANK_Serial_EK-FC_Terminal_BLANK_Serial.html
but I cannot find it in performance pcs, same goes for the screws, no idea what size they should be, all I know is that they have a hex head and are 2.5 cms long.

I prefer buying from performance as shipping costs the same to Mexico but I get it delivered in 3 days and not 2 weeks.


----------



## b0x3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no it doesnt, it is just support . at worst it is connected to the ground which still wont hurt


thanks mate that's quite comforting!


----------



## denvers1

Here is a cpuz shot and my mobo in the background I guess this is how to become a member of this club?


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> This is how it should look with 2 x PCI-E CABLES Plugged into both 780TI's, so that is 4 x Cables in all to supply the proper power!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also you will need the MOLEX Connected as well to help supply 12v and 5v to the cards!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Ah yes I see, we were just talking about that molex power connector on the bottom of the mobo. So going by your pictures (very nice set-up BTW) I do need to run separate 6-pin power cables to each GPU correct? It's confusing because the 6-pin power cables that were supplied with the mobo have an additional pair of molex power connectors seemingly for exactly the purpose of hooking up an additional GPU but from what I gather this can lead to problems with the more power demanding GPU's.

Also, I notice that youre using the 3 Way SLI bridge, is this the proper way to do this? Its a little confusing because there is a 2 way SLI bridge that came with the mobo as well but it only seems to connect to one of two PCB spots.

Edit: Looking at your pictures again I just realized that youre running Noiseblocker fans! I recently ordered three Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-P's (PWM) to replace the two factory 140mm fans in the front of my Corsair Air 540. Considering about 15% of the stock 140mm fan's surface area is obstructed (they are slightly wider than the rectangular front cut-out) and that unobstructed they push 67 CFM I am anticipating doubling the air coming into this case (3x78>CFM vs. 2x~60CFM). I spent a lot of time researching 120mm fans before settling on these, many think the Noctua's are the quietest and offer the greatest noise/performance ratio but fan technology has continued to develop over the years!

Noctua vs. Noiseblocker eLoop B12
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Noiseblocker+noctua

Some pics of the innovative design:
http://www.overclock.net/products/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-4-120mmx25mm-ultra-silent-bionic-blade-2400rpm/reviews/5920
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *denvers1*
> 
> 
> 
> They were real pricey though! 3 of these were $90 shipped from FrozenCPU! (can't seem to find them everywhere). The German engineer behind their development was awarded some kind of national recognition by the Germany, the fan design mimics air-flow elements found in nature, particularly bird wing aerodynamics. Nature works best!
> 
> Here is a cpuz shot and my mobo in the background I guess this is how to become a member of this club?


Welcome to the club!


----------



## dboythagr8

Ok, I finally have everything setup.







Some of my struggles -

First issue I had was the board only recognizing 12GB of RAM. I took everything out and started back up and...nothing. Turns out the 24 pin ATX cable came undone. Ok. Plugged back in and got code 55 on the LED. Memory not initialized or incompatible. Took them out again and re arranged them, gave it another go and it worked.

3-way SLI wouldn't enable. NVCP would only see 2 cards even though the third was in the system.

So I took the cards out and tried them in a different order. In the process I noticed that the Rampage IV Black Edition has a 4 pin Molex EZ Plug next to the audio connector. A look in the manual shows this is to supply extra power to the board when using 3+ GPUs. Took care of that and now everything is good. They really need to bring more attention to that EZ Plug. I wouldn't of known about it if I didn't stumble onto it via some Googling.

Need to do some cable cleanup and other odds and ends. For now I'm just happy it's up and running. The OC panel...is it pretty easy to use? As my pic shows I have it installed. Going to look over some videos and guides before I get into any OCing though.

BTW I updated to Bios 0603 with no issues.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0x3d*
> 
> Even though I would like to, I'm not using the molex connector at the bottom, because my case has a bar in the way as part of the mobo tray which blocks it. Considered sawing it off with a junior hacksaw. In fact still considering it. But will probably wait until I upgrade the case and go tri-fire. For the moment my CF 290x's seem ok without it plugged in.
> 
> Quick question on this connector - the metal strip that runs over the top through the middle, does this carry any current or is it just decoration? Reason I ask is because I stupidly thought the black housing was a cap and needed to be removed to access the molex pins. The graphic in the manual doesn't clearly show it's at a right angle like the sata ports. I couldn't be bothered to unplug everything including gfx cards etc. and therefore it was quite tricky to get to, so I tried to pull it off with pliers. It obviously wouldn't budge because it's part of the mobo, but the pliers slipped and I scratched the plastic housing and the metal strip. Hoping it's just superficial damage. Lesson learned, check this forum before doing anything!


I am not sure! Hopefully those more knowledgeable than I will help. But I do agree, the manual that comes with RIVBE leaves a lot to be desired, look at how many of us don't even know about the molex power connector on the bottom of the mobo!! You can't find it saying what this is for or whether it needs to be connected or not anywhere in the manual. And the Qualified Vendor List (memory) is way out of date! The memory I have isn't on there but works no problem! (Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x8 2133MHz CMY16GX3M2A2133C11)

Come on Asus, it's not as though were buying these things for $500!

Oh and speaking of quality control, I am now having an issue where the decorative OC Panel is refusing to turn off when I shut down the computer, I've already tried updating the firm-ware.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Ok, I finally have everything setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of my struggles -
> 
> First issue I had was the board only recognizing 12GB of RAM. I took everything out and started back up and...nothing. Turns out the 24 pin ATX cable came undone. Ok. Plugged back in and got code 55 on the LED. Memory not initialized or incompatible. Took them out again and re arranged them, gave it another go and it worked.
> 
> 3-way SLI wouldn't enable. NVCP would only see 2 cards even though the third was in the system.
> 
> So I took the cards out and tried them in a different order. In the process I noticed that the Rampage IV Black Edition has a 4 pin Molex EZ Plug next to the audio connector. A look in the manual shows this is to supply extra power to the board when using 3+ GPUs. Took care of that and now everything is good. They really need to bring more attention to that EZ Plug. I wouldn't of known about it if I didn't stumble onto it via some Googling.
> 
> Need to do some cable cleanup and other odds and ends. For now I'm just happy it's up and running. The OC panel...is it pretty easy to use? As my pic shows I have it installed. Going to look over some videos and guides before I get into any OCing though.
> 
> BTW I updated to Bios 0603 with no issues.


Someone gets the cable management award lol! 3x780 Ti in an Air 540 lol! Best to just forget about putting the side panel back on, better stock up on compressed air or get a dust vacuum. Your post is just in time my friend, I was explaining to AJay 57 that I replaced the two factory 140mm fans in the front of my Air 540 with 3 120mm and that the included 140mm's are actually slightly obstructed because of the size of the rectangular cut-out, which is very clear from your pic (the 120mm's just fit, 140mm's sides are partially obstructed). And I'm also saying that the RIVBE manual is a bit lacking in regards to the EZ Plug molex on the bottom of the mobo.

Your decorative OC Panel is upside down BTW.


----------



## denvers1

I was told that the 4 pin power connector along with the 8 pin gave you the extra power to run sli while benchmarking or heavy load conditions I never tried it without the 4 pin why not have the extra power when you need it if it is there and that is what it is for? I will be running 3 GTX 780ti video cards in sli so I am taking no chances I did have to split an 8 pin connector to have a 4 pin as my psu did not give me an individual 4 pin but 2 8 pin, the connector comes apart as it was designed to and have 2 4 pin connectors the motherboard wants it so the motherboard gets what it wants.


----------



## xarot

The 4-pin molex connector for graphics cards in the low end of the mobo and it is to prevent the cards from taking too much juice from 24-pin ATX. When GTX 480s were released, many people burnt their PSU wires/mobos because many boards didn't have that additional power connector to run 3-way/4-way SLI properly. Old link and not all images work, but still here you go.

http://forums.evga.com/24pin-ATX-power-plug-meltdowns-Need-user-data-from-unaffected-computers-m749507.aspx


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Someone gets the cable management award lol! 3x780 Ti in an Air 540 lol! Best to just forget about putting the side panel back on, better stock up on compressed air or get a dust vacuum. Your post is just in time my friend, I was explaining to AJay 57 that I replaced the two factory 140mm fans in the front of my Air 540 with 3 120mm and that the included 140mm's are actually slightly obstructed because of the size of the rectangular cut-out, which is very clear from your pic (the 120mm's just fit, 140mm's sides are partially obstructed). And I'm also saying that the RIVBE manual is a bit lacking in regards to the EZ Plug molex on the bottom of the mobo.
> 
> Your decorative OC Panel is upside down BTW.


Here's the money shot:



When I get some zip ties and dig in it'll be all good







. I need to make some more changes such as replacing that red wire, try to install the Corsair AF140 in the back again, and maybe change the orientation of the push/pull fans up top. I was just happy to get it up and running. I'm pretty sure I've used every or just about every slot on my EVGA Supernova G2 PSU.

Also how is the OC panel upside down? Both it and the NZXT fan switch knobs are facing my direction. Unless you mean because it's on its side but that's because of the way the Air 540 has it's 5.25 bays oriented.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Okay, I am on the looking for a new motherboard, coming from the Asus Rampage IV Gene (it has worked flawlessly in 7 days), I first thought of doing the upgrade to RIVF, then RIVE and now I am back thinking of RIVBE.

My CPU is the 3930K working great at 1,2 v
My RAM is Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866 Mhz (running quad channel on the RIVG without problems)
HDD are a Seagate Barracuda 7200 rpm 3TB (main)

I had a RIVBE with the problems of a lot of BSOD's and I am kind of sceptical to buy another one, but I have understood that the CPU current should be at 180%, is there anything else I should look out for if I go the route of getting a new RIVBE?

I will be doing 3-way R9 290X's or 4-way R9 290X's. has somebody had unusual problems with such setups?

I would like a "guide" for which settings I should use for stock clock on my 3930K at the RIVBE, the last board MAY have been faulty, but I worked my pants off trying to figure out that thing and I do not want to do that again.

Is the Rampage IV Extreme (old version) more plug and play than the RIVBE?


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Here's the money shot:
> 
> 
> 
> When I get some zip ties and dig in it'll be all good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I need to make some more changes such as replacing that red wire, try to install the Corsair AF140 in the back again, and maybe change the orientation of the push/pull fans up top. I was just happy to get it up and running. I'm pretty sure I've used every or just about every slot on my EVGA Supernova G2 PSU.
> 
> Also how is the OC panel upside down? Both it and the NZXT fan switch knobs are facing my direction. Unless you mean because it's on its side but that's because of the way the Air 540 has it's 5.25 bays oriented.


I wouldn't worry about the red wire, unless youre worried about impressing your GF or just want to have all fhe wires the same color. Youre not going to get an AF140 to replace the supplied rear exhaust fans unless you remove the rubber "silencing" grommets on the four corners, but I am sure you already figured that out. I tried this recently as I added an AF140 to supplement the rear exhaust fan as there is considerable heat in this area of the case, I ended up keeping it in the ceiling in this area as I didn't want to risk permanently removing the rubber parts. Bad thing about the AF140 that I didn't find out until getting it is that it isn't PWM. If Noiseblocker does finally release 140mm variants of their "E-Loop Bionic" line (see post above) I will be all over them, not only are they one of the best fans available (Gentle Typhoons somehow still the best but these are VERY close yet look light years ahead aesthetically, ESPECIALLY if you have an Arctic White Air 540).

http://www.overclock.net/t/1389355/fan-testing-round-12-begins-thanks-to-cpachris-and-prymus-nb-e-loop-sp120-nf-f12-cougar-vortex-pwm-vortex-red-led-pirahna-ap-45

I was only kidding about the OC Panel, I have mine the other way even though it breaks with the orientation of the neighboring DVD drive as my PC is sitting on the ground to the left of me and I was tired of having to read it upside down. Not that any of the information is even remotely relevant, except when it fails to boot and the read-out identifies the culprit, unfortunately the temperature read-out is inaccurate by a considerable amount above 45 C on both the OC Panel and AI Suite 3 (Hwinfo64 showing 10-15 C higher temps under moderate load). I set the fan speed algorithm for the CPU air cooler and all of the case fans to go to 100% at 55C in AI Suite 3 (which is 65-70 C in Hwinfo64, one of them is inaccurate, I am willing to bet it's AI Suite 3 and OC Panel and am not willing to take any chances with such a huge difference).

What kind of PSU you got for those GPU's?

I'm interested to see some benchmarks and observed temperatures when you get it all set up.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I wouldn't worry about the red wire, unless youre worried about impressing your GF or just want to have all fhe wires the same color. Youre not going to get an AF140 to replace the supplied rear exhaust fans unless you remove the rubber "silencing" grommets on the four corners, but I am sure you already figured that out.
> 
> I was only kidding about the OC Panel, I have mine the other way even though it breaks with the orientation of the neighboring DVD drive as my PC is sitting on the ground to the left of me and I was tired of having to read it upside down. Not that any of the information is even remotely relevant, except when it fails to boot and the read-out identifies the culprit, unfortunately the temperature read-out is inaccurate by a considerable amount above 45 C on both the OC Panel and AI Suite 3 (Hwinfo64 showing 10-15 C higher temps under moderate load). I set the fan speed algorithm for the CPU air cooler and all of the case fans to go to 100% at 55C in AI Suite 3 (which is 65-70 C in Hwinfo64, one of them is inaccurate, I am willing to bet it's AI Suite 3 and OC Panel and am not willing to take any chances with such a huge difference).
> 
> What kind of PSU you got for those GPU's?
> 
> I'm interested to see some benchmarks and observed temperatures when you get it all set up.


I've got an EVGA Supernova G2 1300w powering the system. Hopefully I can get to some benches and stuff for the next few days. I usually save that for the weekend though in case something goes wrong I'm not already in a bad mood from work


----------



## Nizzen

Is there a new bios special for 4960x users? Read about it in an another thread, but I can not find it


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I can imagine how that goes (I will be re-joining the wage-slave economy shortly, if I don't shoot myself in the face first. Disregard your feelings, Corporate Capitalism is "Progress" and "Freedom", so says Milton Friedman and Ayn Rand!).
> 
> Are those actually 3 Titan Blacks?


Yes they are:


----------



## axiumone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizzen*
> 
> Is there a new bios special for 4960x users? Read about it in an another thread, but I can not find it


Oh that's interesting, is there? What would make it special, I wonder.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Oh that's interesting, is there? What would make it special, I wonder.


There's a new 0603 for USB3 issue and stability. I got a little better voltage with it and easier overclock. It's on the R4BE page on the Asus web site. Rampage IV Black EDITION ASUS 0603.zip

As for the EZ_Plug (that 4 PIN molex at the bottom of the MB) page 1-48 of the manual.

When I got my board, I asked on the Asus forum about the extra ATX power connect, 4PIN and 8 PIN on top, 4 PIN Molex EZ_PLug at the bottom and the answer from Raja was plug them both if you plan on going over 4.4MHz. I keep mine at 4.5.

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?43244-ATX-8-and-4-PIN-on-R4BE-both-or-only-8

On another note, CPUID HWMonitor show much less power used by the CPU on Strap 125.

45X100 It shows 125W under load
36x125 it shows 104W under load.

Anyone with the power meter between the PC and the Wall plug can confirm or disconfirm this?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> On another note, CPUID HWMonitor show much less power used by the CPU on Strap 125.
> 
> 45X100 It shows 125W under load
> 36x125 it shows 104W under load.
> 
> Anyone with the power meter between the PC and the Wall plug can confirm or disconfirm this?


Software is incorrect. I have meter on 8-pin only, never mind full system. even 100 is wrong. I test every motherboard with both meters in place, remember that TDP is [email protected] 3.5-3.7 GHz on all cores. Even 4.0 GHz on all cores, with a semi-decent 4960X and XMP enabled, surpasses TDP by quite an amount. If you really had 125W @ 4.5 GHz, I think you'd have 5.0 GHz on air with that chip.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Ah yes I see, we were just talking about that molex power connector on the bottom of the mobo. So going by your pictures (very nice set-up BTW) I do need to run separate 6-pin power cables to each GPU correct? It's confusing because the 6-pin power cables that were supplied with the mobo have an additional pair of molex power connectors seemingly for exactly the purpose of hooking up an additional GPU but from what I gather this can lead to problems with the more power demanding GPU's.
> 
> Also, I notice that youre using the 3 Way SLI bridge, is this the proper way to do this? Its a little confusing because there is a 2 way SLI bridge that came with the mobo as well but it only seems to connect to one of two PCB spots.
> 
> Edit: Looking at your pictures again I just realized that youre running Noiseblocker fans! I recently ordered three Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-P's (PWM) to replace the two factory 140mm fans in the front of my Corsair Air 540. Considering about 15% of the stock 140mm fan's surface area is obstructed (they are slightly wider than the rectangular front cut-out) and that unobstructed they push 67 CFM I am anticipating doubling the air coming into this case (3x78>CFM vs. 2x~60CFM). I spent a lot of time researching 120mm fans before settling on these, many think the Noctua's are the quietest and offer the greatest noise/performance ratio but fan technology has continued to develop over the years!
> 
> Noctua vs. Noiseblocker eLoop B12
> https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Noiseblocker+noctua
> 
> Some pics of the innovative design:
> http://www.overclock.net/products/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-4-120mmx25mm-ultra-silent-bionic-blade-2400rpm/reviews/5920
> Welcome to the club!


I used the 3 way SLI Bridge because of the distance between the 780TI's it really depends what slots you are using there!

A normal SLI Bridge connected to one set of terminals will still do the job for you, as for the power cables they are from the Corsair 1200w PSU here.

These cables is the one i use here for my GPU's to connect to my PSU!







As you can see the PCI-E Cable has 6 pins with a 2 pin add on with the 780TI you need to use all 8 pins to supply the power for the first connection and then a 6 pin to the next connection, also you need 2 x PCI-E Cables like these to each 780TI!



So that is 2 PCI-E cables connected to the inputs of each GPU card!











And this is the SLI Bridge connected using 2 of the bridge connector tabs!



I hope this helps and explains how things are fully connected.
















Regards,

AJ.


----------



## b0x3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> The 4-pin molex connector for graphics cards in the low end of the mobo and it is to prevent the cards from taking too much juice from 24-pin ATX. When GTX 480s were released, many people burnt their PSU wires/mobos because many boards didn't have that additional power connector to run 3-way/4-way SLI properly. Old link and not all images work, but still here you go.
> 
> http://forums.evga.com/24pin-ATX-power-plug-meltdowns-Need-user-data-from-unaffected-computers-m749507.aspx


Is this the same for AMD cards? I heard the 290x for example draws less power from the mobo than Nvidia


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0x3d*
> 
> Is this the same for AMD cards? I heard the 290x for example draws less power from the mobo than Nvidia


Yes, AMD, NV - the same in that regard. if your mobo has an aux power connector for the PCIE sub-system - connect it whether using 1,2,3 or 4 cards. If you can't fit it 'cause of a chassis issue, you can get a PCIE power card from EVGA and use that.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> There's a new 0603 for USB3 issue and stability. I got a little better voltage with it and easier overclock. It's on the R4BE page on the Asus web site. Rampage IV Black EDITION ASUS 0603.zip
> 
> As for the EZ_Plug (that 4 PIN molex at the bottom of the MB) page 1-48 of the manual.
> 
> When I got my board, I asked on the Asus forum about the extra ATX power connect, 4PIN and 8 PIN on top, 4 PIN Molex EZ_PLug at the bottom and the answer from Raja was plug them both if you plan on going over 4.4MHz. I keep mine at 4.5.
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?43244-ATX-8-and-4-PIN-on-R4BE-both-or-only-8
> 
> 
> 
> On another note, CPUID HWMonitor show much less power used by the CPU on Strap 125.
> 
> *45X100 It shows 125W under load
> 36x125 it shows 104W under load.*
> 
> Anyone with the power meter between the PC and the Wall plug can confirm or disconfirm this?


As Cadaveca said, HWMonitor and coretemp are far from accurate in absolute values reported (but not too bad if used for relative values within a given system). @ 27x166 they both report even lower values for watts.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> As Cadaveca said, HWMonitor and coretemp are far from accurate in absolute values reported (but not too bad if used for relative values within a given system). @ 27x166 they both report even lower values for watts.


But is it true that strap 125 pulls less watt than 100? and if not accurate what is the observed delta? I know it would just be an approximation but could be interesting to know to advocate for strap 125 event if you loose offset voltage.


----------



## cadaveca

No, not true.

125W is what decent 4770K pulls @ 4.5-4.6 GHz, FYI, to put those numbers into perspective. I'd just ignore any such readings, no software that I have ever seen is accurate in reporting power consumption, and it's like my job as a reviewer to check such things out. If I could use software reliably instead of plugging stuff in, that'd be ideal.


----------



## KoSoVaR

Anyone using i7z to read temps on this board/CPU? I know for a fact I have this at 125 strap with a 1.35vcore and 37x multi. I haven't started this machine in Windows to check CPU-Z, but I know the BIOS is all set correctly.

If you look at the screenshot, max freq without considering turbo says 4623.97 (4625 = 37 x 125)

I'm trying to figure out why the actual freq is reporting 4.5GHz. I haven't opened an issue on i7z sourceforge yet as I want to rule out any issues in the BIOS first. Freq reads fine on a RIVE with 3970X.

Also, vcore is clearly wrong.








Quote:


> i7z DEBUG: i7z version: svn-r93-(27-MAY-2013)
> i7z DEBUG: Found Intel Processor
> i7z DEBUG: Stepping 4
> i7z DEBUG: Model e
> i7z DEBUG: Family 6
> i7z DEBUG: Processor Type 0
> i7z DEBUG: Extended Model 3
> i7z DEBUG: msr = Model Specific Register
> i7z DEBUG: detected a newer model of ivy bridge processor


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> But is it true that strap 125 pulls less watt than 100? and if not accurate what is the observed delta? I know it would just be an approximation but could be interesting to know to advocate for strap 125 event if you loose offset voltage.


I bet the watts for any given frequency are very similar between straps ... you know, you ask the chip to do the same work so the watts will be near equal no matter what gear.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoSoVaR*
> 
> Anyone using i7z to read temps on this board/CPU? I know for a fact I have this at 125 strap with a 1.35vcore and 37x multi. I haven't started this machine in Windows to check CPU-Z, but I know the BIOS is all set correctly.
> 
> If you look at the screenshot, max freq without considering turbo says 4623.97 (4625 = 37 x 125)
> 
> I'm trying to figure out why the actual freq is reporting 4.5GHz. I haven't opened an issue on i7z sourceforge yet as I want to rule out any issues in the BIOS first. Freq reads fine on a RIVE with 3970X.
> 
> Also, vcore is clearly wrong.


I fixed the code for i7z on my version to report up to 8 cores. Open another shell and put some load, maybe ffplay or compile something. The message is X36 without looking at Turbo. And the voltage will be lower if the chip is idle.


----------



## KoSoVaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> I fixed the code for i7z on my version to report up to 8 cores. Open another shell and put some load, maybe ffplay or compile something. The message is X36 without looking at Turbo. And the voltage will be lower if the chip is idle.


Core 4,5,6 are all loaded 100%


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoSoVaR*
> 
> Core 4,5,6 are all loaded 100%


I see, sorry. The version I have doesn't report vcore. What if you start i7z after the load is applied to the CPU. Does it still report the lower voltage?
i have 0.27.2 but it's on an HPDL360 G8 Dual socket.

is service cpuspeed enabled? in my code speedstep is disable, HP power profile set to maxperformance.

downloaded and compile 0.28 and still no vcore... which version are you using?


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I've got an EVGA Supernova G2 1300w powering the system. Hopefully I can get to some benches and stuff for the next few days. I usually save that for the weekend though in case something goes wrong I'm not already in a bad mood from work


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I used the 3 way SLI Bridge because of the distance between the 780TI's it really depends what slots you are using there!
> 
> A normal SLI Bridge connected to one set of terminals will still do the job for you, as for the power cables they are from the Corsair 1200w PSU here.
> 
> These cables is the one i use here for my GPU's to connect to my PSU!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the PCI-E Cable has 6 pins with a 2 pin add on with the 780TI you need to use all 8 pins to supply the power for the first connection and then a 6 pin to the next connection, also you need 2 x PCI-E Cables like these to each 780TI!
> 
> 
> 
> So that is 2 PCI-E cables connected to the inputs of each GPU card!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the SLI Bridge connected using 2 of the bridge connector tabs!
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this helps and explains how things are fully connected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


I will be using slot 3 (PCIE 3.0 x16 as opposed to x8 on slot 2 and most importantly BREATHING ROOM) for the additional GPU, thanks for showing me that the 3 way SLI bridge works fine with only two GPU's, it looks a lot better than the 2 way SLI bridge!

Actually to clarify my question, as I am only using the power cables included with the motherboard I was wondering if I would have issues connecting the 6-pin power cables from the GPU to the power cables that have 4 four-pin Molex power out on them. The issue at hand is that the mobo only came with two, one of them is currently attached to the existing GPU and the other to the EZ Power connector on the bottom of the mobo. Unless I am interpreting it incorrectly, it seems a few may have had power starvation issues connecting two of these GPU's (780 Ti/Titan) to the same 6-pin power cable (the "four Molex out" I refer to above) and recommend using a separate 6-pin power cable/"rail" (I assume "rail" means available power port on the PSU?) for each GPU.

Seeing as how I only have two and they are both in use what I am going to try to do is attach the additional GPU to 2 of the 4 available Molex connectors on the power cable that is going to the EZ Power Plug on the bottom of the mobo, as the current draw through that is only supplemental, is there to assist with power hungry GPU's to begin with, and isn't drawing nearly as much current as the alternative, the other 4 pin power cable going to the other GPU.

If there is some confusion, if you are curious and have all of the accessories that came with your motherboard you should be able to find the aforementioned power cables relatively quickly. They simply have 4 Molex connectors on them.

If anyone thinks I will have issues with this please let me know.

Oh and if anyone is curious as to why I am adding an additional 780 Ti, two words: Skyrim, ENB. I was in total disbelief that in heavily wooded areas of the game, with flora and tree mods (Vurts Flora Overhaul, RealVision ENB) that I would only be seeing 37 FPS, and a choppy 37 FPS at that. Memory utilization is only at 75%, or 2.25GB while core is 99% nearly everywhere. I don't know about you but I can't deal with stutter or anything under 60 FPS. I did try a SkyNet vbios, which allowed me to run 1.212V (about as high as I care to go on air) but this GPU will only do 1270MHz on the core and then it is artifact city. And the temps, was seeing temps as high as 77C even with the fans set go to 100% at 65C. I wasn't exactly thrilled with the modified vbios to be honest, I really really like the default SC vbios (1006 core/1150 boost, 1.187V) so it was time to consider adding an additional GPU.

Aside from hopefully seeing 60>FPS everywhere with 100+mods and an ENB in Skyrim at 1080p I am also salivating at the prospects of getting my hands on Asus' new ROG Swift monitor due to release next month: 2560x1440, 144Hz capable, G-Sync and what they promise to be "a better TN panel, 8 bit vs. 6". I was actually seriously ready to pull the trigger on one of the Korean monitors last night, either a Yamakasi Catpleap or a Qnix but the prevalence of reports of premature failure (as in around one years time) and the fact that youre dealing with merchants in South Korea and the shoddy build quality (particularly the flimsy non-height adjustable stands) and the question of how V-sync may or may not work at ~120Hz (sure its smooth, but what about tearing?) compelled me to wait for reviews of Asus G-Sync monitor. Hopefully Asus claim that this TN is a departure from existing TN technology in terms of image quality is not just marketing fluff. That is the real question on everyone's minds: have they actually succeeded in creating a tolerable TN image?

http://rog.asus.com/296652014/news/rog-announces-the-pg278q-swift-27-inch-wqhd-g-sync-gaming-monitor/

I am so ready to step up to 2560x1440 and with 780 Ti SLI I should be relatively future-proof well into Maxwell's life-cycle, at which point I will probably pick up EVGA's 880 Ti SC variant near the end.

Well my Noiseblocker Bionic E-Loops just arrived from FrozenCPU, I'm going to put these in and should have a video with these fans, the additional 780 Ti with EVGA back-plates installed up in a few days. Very excited.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I will be using slot 3 (PCIE 3.0 x16 as opposed to x8 on slot 2 and most importantly BREATHING ROOM) for the additional GPU, thanks for showing me that the 3 way SLI bridge works fine with only two GPU's, it looks a lot better than the 2 way SLI bridge!
> 
> Actually to clarify my question, as I am only using the power cables included with the motherboard I was wondering if I would have issues connecting the 6-pin power cables from the GPU to the power cables that have 4 four-pin Molex power out on them. The issue at hand is that the mobo only came with two, one of them is currently attached to the existing GPU and the other to the EZ Power connector on the bottom of the mobo. Unless I am interpreting it incorrectly, it seems a few may have had power starvation issues connecting two of these GPU's (780 Ti/Titan) to the same 6-pin power cable (the "four Molex out" I refer to above) and recommend using a separate 6-pin power cable/"rail" (I assume "rail" means available power port on the PSU?) for each GPU.
> 
> Seeing as how I only have two and they are both in use what I am going to try to do is attach the additional GPU to 2 of the 4 available Molex connectors on the power cable that is going to the EZ Power Plug on the bottom of the mobo, as the current draw through that is only supplemental, is there to assist with power hungry GPU's to begin with, and isn't drawing nearly as much current as the alternative, the other 4 pin power cable going to the other GPU.
> 
> If there is some confusion, if you are curious and have all of the accessories that came with your motherboard you should be able to find the aforementioned power cables relatively quickly. They simply have 4 Molex connectors on them.
> 
> If anyone thinks I will have issues with this please let me know.


First i would look to find out what PSU you are running there!!

Then if it has the spare ports you could order the extra PCI-E CABLES to fit to the 780TI's that you want to power up!

In some cases its better to use the PCI-E Cables instead of the Molex ones, so long as you power things up properly with individual cables that are not supplying power else where.

You can buy something like this that will fit your power supply, this by the way is only a extension cable!

1, http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CM-009-NX

"MOST IMPORTANT IS GETTING THE CONNECTIONS CORRECT BEFORE YOU SWITCH ANYTHING ON"









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> First i would look to find out what PSU you are running there!!
> 
> Then if it has the spare ports you could order the extra PCI-E CABLES to fit to the 780TI's that you want to power up!
> 
> In some cases its better to use the PCI-E Cables instead of the Molex ones, so long as you power things up properly with individual cables that are not supplying power else where.
> 
> You can buy something like this that will fit your power supply, this by the way is only a extension cable!
> 
> 1, http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CM-009-NX
> 
> "MOST IMPORTANT IS GETTING THE CONNECTIONS CORRECT BEFORE YOU SWITCH ANYTHING ON"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Thanks for the info, I am going to try to power the additional GPU with two of the Molex branches on the existing cable that is supplying power to the EZ Power plug first and if I have issues I suppose I will have to break down and purchase some new cables. I would rather use the cables that came with the motherboard as the way they are arranged in the case they are not an impediment to airflow and I would rather not be wasteful. It's somewhat of a farce to say that I am on a budget with this computer (still, all said and told, even with adding the additional memory, upgrading to Windows 7 Pro and adding the additional EVGA 780 Ti SC w/ACX GPU I am still sitting right under $3k total, pretty impressive for a computer of this caliber) but I would rather avoid unnecessary purchases.

On a side note, I got the special german engineered Noiseblocker Bionic E-Loop B-12 P's in and they made a bit of a difference in temps:

*Factory front case fans, AF 140 LED (Corsair Air 540)
*
Idle temps:

CPU: 25-30 C
GPU: 30-31 C
Motherboard: 30 C

Load temps (4.6GHz @ 1.398V DMM):

CPU (Prime95): 75-80 C

GPU (3DMark 11): 65 C

*3x Noiseblocker Bionic E-Loop B-14P (PWM)*

Idle Temps:

CPU: 22-28 C (three cores at ~22 C with the other three cores at ~28 C)

GPU: 27 C

Motherboard: 25 C

Load Temps:

CPU (Prime95) 75-80 C (no discernible difference here)

GPU (3DMark 11): 62 C (factory clocks, voltage, vbios:1006 core/1150 boost/1750 mem @ 1.187V)

So a 3 C reduction in both GPU idle and load temps, a 3 C reduction in CPU idle temps, and a 5 C reduction in motherboard temps with no increase in sound or drone over the factory fans. I have them set to 50% RPM at 30 C, 75% at 45 C (55 C actual) and 100% at 50 C (65-70 C actual) to account for the discrepancy between what the reported temps are in AI Suite 3/Fan Expert and what is being reported by Hwinfo64. At idle, or about 30 C, both AI Suite 3 and Hwinfo64 are reporting the same temperatures, but by about 45 C a discrepancy begins that turns into a 15-20 C discrepancy at 55 C (AI Suite 3) which is showing as 70-75 C in Hwinfo64.

Anyhow, if anyone is looking for spectacular 120mm fans, these Noiseblocker Bionic E-Loop B-12P's are amazing. I just doubled the CFM coming into this case (~120 to ~240 CFM) and just in time for the additional 780 Ti with no noticeable increase in noise (really). These sound about the same as the AF140's they replaced at full RPM. They are that good. If anyone wants an idea, go to the following fan comparison article and play all of the videos from the point the fans are taking 12 V, or 100% RPM. Pause each video and play the next, going back and forth, the B12-P's are nearly identical to the B12-3's sound wise except they are PWM, have an additional 100 RPM and slightly greater CFM (78 vs 72 CFM).

The reviewer says the Gentle Typhoon's are quieter, but going by the video, the Noiseblocker B-12 3's are clearly quieter as they seem to produce less motor noise at full RPM. You be the judge.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1389355/fan-testing-round-12-begins-thanks-to-cpachris-and-prymus-nb-e-loop-sp120-nf-f12-cougar-vortex-pwm-vortex-red-led-pirahna-ap-45


----------



## vulcan78

I'd like to get the bottom intake fan to respond to GPU temperature, is SpeedFan the only way to accomplish this?

http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/speedfan.html


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I'd like to get the bottom intake fan to respond to GPU temperature, is SpeedFan the only way to accomplish this?
> 
> http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/speedfan.html


Yeah, buy a thermal probe, use one of the EXT fan headers, attach probe to GPU directly.

Wait, this board does offer that, right? I forget...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I'd like to get the bottom intake fan to respond to GPU temperature, is SpeedFan the only way to accomplish this?
> 
> http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/speedfan.html
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, buy a thermal probe, use one of the EXT fan headers, attach probe to GPU directly.
> 
> Wait, this board does offer that, right? I forget...
Click to expand...

aquaero ~!


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, buy a thermal probe, use one of the EXT fan headers, attach probe to GPU directly.
> 
> Wait, this board does offer that, right? I forget...


Ughh, too complicated, I have SpeedFan open but it doesn't seem to be able to "see" my fans; do I need to turn off fan control in BIOS before messing with SpeedFan and is this program even compatible with RIVBE? Raja if youre listening please incorporate the ability to set the PWM fan profiles to GPU's in Fan Expert!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> aquaero ~!


No Latin allowed!! Against the TOS!!


----------



## Mega Man

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3092 they also offer the aq5 and aq5lt !


----------



## vulcan78

Oh I see, but its 150 British Pounds! I'm saving up for that Asus ROG Swift 27" 2560x1440 144Hz G-Sync monitor that is launching in July!!

Seriously though, does SpeedFan not work with RIVBE? I've even gone into BIOS and set the fans I want to be controlled via GPU temperature to "Manual" and rebooted and SpeedFan still seems be incapable of seeing any of my fans.

Anyone?

Any alternatives to SpeedFan?

[email protected] can we PLEASE get an option to tether case fan speed to GPU's in addition to CPU in Fan Expert 2?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I will be using slot 3 (PCIE 3.0 x16 as opposed to x8 on slot 2 and most importantly BREATHING ROOM) for the additional GPU, thanks for showing me that the 3 way SLI bridge works fine with only two GPU's, it looks a lot better than the 2 way SLI bridge!
> 
> *Actually to clarify my question, as I am only using the power cables included with the motherboard I was wondering if I would have issues connecting the 6-pin power cables from the GPU to the power cables that have 4 four-pin Molex power out on them. The issue at hand is that the mobo only came with two, one of them is currently attached to the existing GPU and the other to the EZ Power connector on the bottom of the mobo. Unless I am interpreting it incorrectly, it seems a few may have had power starvation issues connecting two of these GPU's (780 Ti/Titan) to the same 6-pin power cable (the "four Molex out" I refer to above) and recommend using a separate 6-pin power cable/"rail" (I assume "rail" means available power port on the PSU?) for each GPU.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing as how I only have two and they are both in use what I am going to try to do is attach the additional GPU to 2 of the 4 available Molex connectors on the power cable that is going to the EZ Power Plug on the bottom of the mobo, as the current draw through that is only supplemental, is there to assist with power hungry GPU's to begin with, and isn't drawing nearly as much current as the alternative, the other 4 pin power cable going to the other GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If there is some confusion, if you are curious and have all of the accessories that came with your motherboard you should be able to find the aforementioned power cables relatively quickly. They simply have 4 Molex connectors on them.
> 
> If anyone thinks I will have issues with this please let me know.
> 
> Oh and if anyone is curious as to why I am adding an additional 780 Ti, two words: Skyrim, ENB. I was in total disbelief that in heavily wooded areas of the game, with flora and tree mods (Vurts Flora Overhaul, RealVision ENB) that I would only be seeing 37 FPS, and a choppy 37 FPS at that. Memory utilization is only at 75%, or 2.25GB while core is 99% nearly everywhere. I don't know about you but I can't deal with stutter or anything under 60 FPS. I did try a SkyNet vbios, which allowed me to run 1.212V (about as high as I care to go on air) but this GPU will only do 1270MHz on the core and then it is artifact city. And the temps, was seeing temps as high as 77C even with the fans set go to 100% at 65C. I wasn't exactly thrilled with the modified vbios to be honest, I really really like the default SC vbios (1006 core/1150 boost, 1.187V) so it was time to consider adding an additional GPU.
> 
> Aside from hopefully seeing 60>FPS everywhere with 100+mods and an ENB in Skyrim at 1080p I am also salivating at the prospects of getting my hands on Asus' new ROG Swift monitor due to release next month: 2560x1440, 144Hz capable, G-Sync and what they promise to be "a better TN panel, 8 bit vs. 6". I was actually seriously ready to pull the trigger on one of the Korean monitors last night, either a Yamakasi Catpleap or a Qnix but the prevalence of reports of premature failure (as in around one years time) and the fact that youre dealing with merchants in South Korea and the shoddy build quality (particularly the flimsy non-height adjustable stands) and the question of how V-sync may or may not work at ~120Hz (sure its smooth, but what about tearing?) compelled me to wait for reviews of Asus G-Sync monitor. Hopefully Asus claim that this TN is a departure from existing TN technology in terms of image quality is not just marketing fluff. That is the real question on everyone's minds: have they actually succeeded in creating a tolerable TN image?
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/296652014/news/rog-announces-the-pg278q-swift-27-inch-wqhd-g-sync-gaming-monitor/
> 
> I am so ready to step up to 2560x1440 and with 780 Ti SLI I should be relatively future-proof well into Maxwell's life-cycle, at which point I will probably pick up EVGA's 880 Ti SC variant near the end.
> 
> 
> 
> Well my Noiseblocker Bionic E-Loops just arrived from FrozenCPU, I'm going to put these in and should have a video with these fans, the additional 780 Ti with EVGA back-plates installed up in a few days. Very excited.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First i would look to find out what PSU you are running there!!
> 
> Then if it has the spare ports you could order the extra PCI-E CABLES to fit to the 780TI's that you want to power up!
> 
> In some cases its better to use the PCI-E Cables instead of the Molex ones, so long as you power things up properly with individual cables that are not supplying power else where.
> 
> You can buy something like this that will fit your power supply, this by the way is only a extension cable!
> 
> 
> 
> 1, http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CM-009-NX
> *
> "MOST IMPORTANT IS GETTING THE CONNECTIONS CORRECT BEFORE YOU SWITCH ANYTHING ON"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


each pcie lane provides 75W from the mobo (spec) a 6 pin PCIE is another 75W (can deliver more), and an 8 pin is another 150W (can deliver more). a 4 pin molex 12V is 110W (if i remember correctly). so figure your power supply to the gpus with these numbers. Each 6 pin and each 8 pin PCIE will deliver more than the spec wattage, but that will vary by PSU and rail configuration (before OCP). It's really not a very good idea to run your high-end gfx card using those molex to PCIE adapters. What PSU do you have?

A PSu Rail is not the modular connector. It's the configuration of overcurrent protection (OCP) within the PSU.

mega - ah, the aquaero... great control unit!!


----------



## Ajay57

Thanks JPM,

This 59 / 60 year old brain could not remember that important Info about the WATTAGE CAPABILITY, that is why i said PCI-E CABLES instead of the MOLEX ONES!!









This is a important point when using high powered GPU either single or SLI, because of the total power needed!!









Please read both posts before you do anything to your 780TI's!!









Plus the Molex to the Motherboard as well!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> each pcie lane provides 75W from the mobo (spec) a 6 pin PCIE is another 75W (can deliver more), and an 8 pin is another 150W (can deliver more). a 4 pin molex 12V is 110W (if i remember correctly). so figure your power supply to the gpus with these numbers. Each 6 pin and each 8 pin PCIE will deliver more than the spec wattage, but that will vary by PSU and rail configuration (before OCP). It's really not a very good idea to run your high-end gfx card using those molex to PCIE adapters. What PSU do you have?
> 
> A PSu Rail is not the modular connector. It's the configuration of overcurrent protection (OCP) within the PSU.
> 
> mega - ah, the aquaero... great control unit!!


Ok now we're getting somewhere with this, I have a Corsair RM850 (gold rated). I am actually currently using one of the Molex to PCI-E power adapters that came with the motherboard to power the existing 780 Ti but going by your information I shouldn't really have any power issues with only one GPU as Molex can only deliver 110W yet the 6-Pin PCI-E to Molex is only taking 75W? Right now it is ok, but the issue might be when I go to connect the additional GPU to the Molex power cable that is going to the EZ Power Plug on the bottom of the mobo. Now that I know these Molex power cables can only deliver 110W, connecting the additional GPU to the Molex power cable going to the existing GPU is out of the question (75W +75W > 110W). The question now is, what is the supplementary power pull of the EZ Power Plug? If it is over 30W, which it probably is, I am going to have to get some new power cables. Damn. I kind of like the white ones everyone seems to be using, anyone care to point me in the right direction?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Thanks JPM,
> 
> This 59 / 60 year old brain could not remember that important Info about the WATTAGE CAPABILITY, that is why i said PCI-E CABLES instead of the MOLEX ONES!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a important point when using high powered GPU either single or SLI, because of the total power needed!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please read both posts before you do anything to your 780TI's!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus the Molex to the Motherboard as well!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Yeah youre pretty sharp for your age AJ







(I'm right behind you coming up on 40).


----------



## dboythagr8

Wait why are you using the Molex to pcie adapter with only one card? It's not needed at all.

You have a 850w PSU. Why not use the PCIe cables that came with it to power the card?

For me I only had to use the EZ Plug Molex to PSU adapter when I added the third card so that the board would have more juice.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Wait why are you using the Molex to pcie adapter with only one card? It's not needed at all.
> 
> You have a 850w PSU. Why not use the PCIe cables that came with it to power the card?
> 
> For me I only had to use the EZ Plug Molex to PSU adapter when I added the third card so that the board would have more juice.


I think youre right, I think the power cables came with the PSU and not the motherboard and taking a closer look at the existing GPU power connections I could probably just connect the 8-Pin to Dual 6/8 Pin power cables directly into the GPU itself. The issue is that the PSU only came with three of these 8-Pin to dual 6/8 Pin (2 pins can be split from the 8 pin outs making them 6 pin) cables and I will still need to have one of the GPU's 6-Pin Power in connected to Molex.

Is the power 8-Pin out capable of more current than the Molex? Because if that is the case, which it probably is, I could simply use one 8 Pin to Dual 6/8 Pin Power Cable for each GPU, completely eliminating the Molex cable in the process! Cable management heaven!!

Anyone know the power capacity of these 8-Pin to dual 6/8 Pin cables that come with the Corsair PSU's?

Edit:

I'm doing some digging on this issue and see that it is a common question:

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1716180/psu-cables-gtx-770.html

Still no answer as to whether or not I will be ok with only one PCI-E 8-Pin to Dual 6+2 Pin per GPU. If this cable can convey 275W by itself then I am golden.


----------



## dboythagr8

I would think you would be fine with running the 6+2pin + 6pin cable directly to the GPU from your PSU. When I had 2x 580 Lightning Xtremes on a older machine with a Corsair 850w PSU it was fine. The newer cards are much more efficient than than those.

So 1 6+2pin + 6pin cable per GPU. This is how I've always done my multi GPU setups from 580s, 2x titans, 2x 780tis, to now 3x Titan Blacks (also had to use the EZ Plug 4pin Molex to PSU adapter in this case)


----------



## vulcan78

Edit:

I don't know what the hell the problem is with the quoting system here on OC.net but I am having a recurring issue where quoting comments results in adding the quotes from previous comments, I just realized that the response below had my previous response from the Corsair Air 540 embedded within it and had to clean it up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I would think you would be fine with running the 6+2pin + 6pin cable directly to the GPU from your PSU. When I had 2x 580 Lightning Xtremes on a older machine with a Corsair 850w PSU it was fine. The newer cards are much more efficient than than those.
> 
> So 1 6+2pin + 6pin cable per GPU. This is how I've always done my multi GPU setups from 580s, 2x titans, 2x 780tis, to now 3x Titan Blacks (also had to use the EZ Plug 4pin Molex to PSU adapter in this case)


Thanks for the help with this, one single 8 Pin to dual 6+2 Pin is indeed sufficient and I am in cable management heaven!

I just ran a few benches to ensure no power starvation issues,

Unigine Heaven 4.0:

DirectX 11
Ultra
Tessellation: Moderate
AA: x4
1920x1080

Default Clocks (1006 core/1150 boost/1750 memory)

FPS:97.3
Score:2450
Min FPS:23.2
Max FPS:188.9

Max GPU Temp: 62 C

And I am pleased to note a significant reduction in temps with the 3x Noiseblocker Bionic E-Loop B12-P vs. the 2x factory AF140 LED:

*AF140 LED x2, Firestrike +120 core/+450 memory default vbios/voltage, 4.6GHz @ 1.398V DMM*



*Noiseblocker B12-P x3, same overclock as above:
*


We see 5-6 and 2-3 C reduction in idle and load CPU temps respectively, a 5-6 and 2 C reduction in idle and load GPU temps respectively and 7 C lower motherboard temperature. And I have to emphasize, NO INCREASE IN NOISE! And the side panel was on for all of the benches above!

Which reminds me, concerning your GPU temps, are you using a custom auto fan algorithm with either MSI Afterburner or EVGA Precision X? If not I highly recommend doing this, at present my fans are set to go to 100% at 65 C whereas with the default algorithm 100% is at like 85 C or something crazy.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, buy a thermal probe, use one of the EXT fan headers, attach probe to GPU directly.
> 
> Wait, this board does offer that, right? I forget...


you put the probe but the fan are always based on the MB CPU sensor.








At least with Aisuite. And speedfan doesn't see any fan on my system.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I will be using slot 3 (PCIE 3.0 x16 as opposed to x8 on slot 2 and most importantly BREATHING ROOM) for the additional GPU, thanks for showing me that the 3 way SLI bridge works fine with only two GPU's, it looks a lot better than the 2 way SLI bridge!
> 
> *Actually to clarify my question, as I am only using the power cables included with the motherboard I was wondering if I would have issues connecting the 6-pin power cables from the GPU to the power cables that have 4 four-pin Molex power out on them. The issue at hand is that the mobo only came with two, one of them is currently attached to the existing GPU and the other to the EZ Power connector on the bottom of the mobo. Unless I am interpreting it incorrectly, it seems a few may have had power starvation issues connecting two of these GPU's (780 Ti/Titan) to the same 6-pin power cable (the "four Molex out" I refer to above) and recommend using a separate 6-pin power cable/"rail" (I assume "rail" means available power port on the PSU?) for each GPU.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing as how I only have two and they are both in use what I am going to try to do is attach the additional GPU to 2 of the 4 available Molex connectors on the power cable that is going to the EZ Power Plug on the bottom of the mobo, as the current draw through that is only supplemental, is there to assist with power hungry GPU's to begin with, and isn't drawing nearly as much current as the alternative, the other 4 pin power cable going to the other GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If there is some confusion, if you are curious and have all of the accessories that came with your motherboard you should be able to find the aforementioned power cables relatively quickly. They simply have 4 Molex connectors on them.
> 
> If anyone thinks I will have issues with this please let me know.
> 
> Oh and if anyone is curious as to why I am adding an additional 780 Ti, two words: Skyrim, ENB. I was in total disbelief that in heavily wooded areas of the game, with flora and tree mods (Vurts Flora Overhaul, RealVision ENB) that I would only be seeing 37 FPS, and a choppy 37 FPS at that. Memory utilization is only at 75%, or 2.25GB while core is 99% nearly everywhere. I don't know about you but I can't deal with stutter or anything under 60 FPS. I did try a SkyNet vbios, which allowed me to run 1.212V (about as high as I care to go on air) but this GPU will only do 1270MHz on the core and then it is artifact city. And the temps, was seeing temps as high as 77C even with the fans set go to 100% at 65C. I wasn't exactly thrilled with the modified vbios to be honest, I really really like the default SC vbios (1006 core/1150 boost, 1.187V) so it was time to consider adding an additional GPU.
> 
> Aside from hopefully seeing 60>FPS everywhere with 100+mods and an ENB in Skyrim at 1080p I am also salivating at the prospects of getting my hands on Asus' new ROG Swift monitor due to release next month: 2560x1440, 144Hz capable, G-Sync and what they promise to be "a better TN panel, 8 bit vs. 6". I was actually seriously ready to pull the trigger on one of the Korean monitors last night, either a Yamakasi Catpleap or a Qnix but the prevalence of reports of premature failure (as in around one years time) and the fact that youre dealing with merchants in South Korea and the shoddy build quality (particularly the flimsy non-height adjustable stands) and the question of how V-sync may or may not work at ~120Hz (sure its smooth, but what about tearing?) compelled me to wait for reviews of Asus G-Sync monitor. Hopefully Asus claim that this TN is a departure from existing TN technology in terms of image quality is not just marketing fluff. That is the real question on everyone's minds: have they actually succeeded in creating a tolerable TN image?
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/296652014/news/rog-announces-the-pg278q-swift-27-inch-wqhd-g-sync-gaming-monitor/
> 
> I am so ready to step up to 2560x1440 and with 780 Ti SLI I should be relatively future-proof well into Maxwell's life-cycle, at which point I will probably pick up EVGA's 880 Ti SC variant near the end.
> 
> 
> 
> Well my Noiseblocker Bionic E-Loops just arrived from FrozenCPU, I'm going to put these in and should have a video with these fans, the additional 780 Ti with EVGA back-plates installed up in a few days. Very excited.
> 
> 
> 
> [quote
> mega - ah, the aquaero... great control unit!!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Wait why are you using the Molex to pcie adapter with only one card? It's not needed at all.
> 
> You have a 850w PSU. Why not use the PCIe cables that came with it to power the card?
> 
> For me I only had to use the EZ Plug Molex to PSU adapter when I added the third card so that the board would have more juice.
> 
> 
> 
> I think youre right, I think the power cables came with the PSU and not the motherboard and taking a closer look at the existing GPU power connections I could probably just connect the 8-Pin to Dual 6/8 Pin power cables directly into the GPU itself. The issue is that the PSU only came with three of these 8-Pin to dual 6/8 Pin (2 pins can be split from the 8 pin outs making them 6 pin) cables and I will still need to have one of the GPU's 6-Pin Power in connected to Molex.
> 
> Is the power 8-Pin out capable of more current than the Molex? Because if that is the case, which it probably is, I could simply use one 8 Pin to Dual 6/8 Pin Power Cable for each GPU, completely eliminating the Molex cable in the process! Cable management heaven!!
> 
> Anyone know the power capacity of these 8-Pin to dual 6/8 Pin cables that come with the Corsair PSU's?
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I'm doing some digging on this issue and see that it is a common question:
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1716180/psu-cables-gtx-770.html
> 
> Still no answer as to whether or not I will be ok with only one PCI-E 8-Pin to Dual 6+2 Pin per GPU. If this cable can convey 275W by itself then I am golden.
Click to expand...

FYI the 8 pins alp they did was add 2 ground to the 6 pin
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I don't know what the hell the problem is with the quoting system here on OC.net but I am having a recurring issue where quoting comments results in adding the quotes from previous comments, I just realized that the response below had my previous response


There had been an update to ocn. It saves drafts like your email


----------



## Nunzi

Ok Back to bios 0403 for me the new bios turns my pc on from the USB mouse or keyboard!

The crazy thing is it only does this once after power off from windows

Thoughts?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nunzi*
> 
> Ok Back to bios 0403 for me the new bios turns my pc on from the USB mouse or keyboard!
> 
> The crazy thing is it only does this once after power off from windows
> 
> Thoughts?


Option in the bios that is enabled to turn on pc from keyboard or mouse?


----------



## Shadowarez

Iv also found that ai suite 3 has issue with that I turned off ai charger prob solved.


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Option in the bios that is enabled to turn on pc from keyboard or mouse?


Not that I can find, scoured the bios looking for that option

0403 with the same settings does not do this!


----------



## chrisnyc75

I just got a new RIVB and due to past recurrent electrical failures with a RIVE, I'm considering adding a "full coverage" block to my wc loop on the RIVB, and I have a question for you guys. The clearance between pci-e slot 1 and the northbridge mount looks awfully tight, will I have a problem with 3/4" OD fittings on the block conflicting with the gpu/block? Should I go with just a VRM block at the top and skip the chipset piece?


----------



## cadaveca

This seems to be the limit for my hardware combo for BCLK OC. Haven't touched anything other than manual memory timings, forcing voltages to stock, adjusting VRM settings, and increasing vCPU.


----------



## dboythagr8

The past few days something has been happening upon turning my machine on. It will load up, get to Windows 8 loading screen, and then my monitor will go blank. I look on the motherboard and the QCode says 40. Manual says 0x40 - "System is waking up from the S4 sleep state". When I press the reset button on my machine it reboots and then loads into W8.1, with the QCode reading AA - "Reserved for ASL".

What's going on here. Why is my machine "waking up" from a sleep state when I am doing a cold boot?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I just got a new RIVB and due to past recurrent electrical failures with a RIVE, I'm considering adding a "full coverage" block to my wc loop on the RIVB, and I have a question for you guys. The clearance between pci-e slot 1 and the northbridge mount looks awfully tight, will I have a problem with 3/4" OD fittings on the block conflicting with the gpu/block? Should I go with just a VRM block at the top and skip the chipset piece?


mine works without issue my 290x, had both a ek block/backplate and komodo block/backplate without clearance issues

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> This seems to be the limit for my hardware combo for BCLK OC. Haven't touched anything other than manual memory timings, forcing voltages to stock, adjusting VRM settings, and increasing vCPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> The past few days something has been happening upon turning my machine on. It will load up, get to Windows 8 loading screen, and then my monitor will go blank. I look on the motherboard and the QCode says 40. Manual says 0x40 - "System is waking up from the S4 sleep state". When I press the reset button on my machine it reboots and then loads into W8.1, with the QCode reading AA - "Reserved for ASL".
> 
> What's going on here. Why is my machine "waking up" from a sleep state when I am doing a cold boot?


Fast Boot.

AA after boot = normal


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Fast Boot.
> 
> AA after boot = normal


What do I need to do to disable fast boot?


----------



## Mega Man

more importantly why would you want to

you are having trouble with sleep, not fast boot

which from what i have seen both intel and amd have issues with sleep.

also to point out why do you need sleep when fastboot works as fast


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> What do I need to do to disable fast boot?


It's in the BIOS, one option rules it all.







. Personally, I'd work on stabilizing that OC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*


Almost done review work, then I'll be able to start working on the watercooling. I think EK's AIO block is gonna have to be part of it.

I still have to fit in the third card too, I'm really hoping that doesn't affect the OC any. they run too hot on stock cooling as is, and now that summer is approaching, running three cards smashed together on air just isn't realistic.

But...I'm just barely breaking 78c in P95 under an H80i...I'm pretty happy.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> more importantly why would you want to
> 
> you are having trouble with sleep, not fast boot
> 
> which from what i have seen both intel and amd have issues with sleep.
> 
> also to point out why do you need sleep when fastboot works as fast


Ok but I don't put the machine to sleep....I shut it down. This happens when I press the power button for a cold boot. Not from hibernation or sleep.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's in the BIOS, one option rules it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Personally, I'd work on stabilizing that OC.


I don't have my CPU OC'd


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Ok but I don't put the machine to sleep....I shut it down. This happens when I press the power button for a cold boot. Not from hibernation or sleep.
> I don't have my CPU OC'd


Well, I has no ideas for ya. I've got no problems like that except when OC'd. Maybe a driver problem or something.


----------



## TremF

My validation for the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club!

Asus Rampage IV Black Edition!


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TremF*
> 
> My validation for the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club!
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition!


Congrats!

1.52v







???


----------



## TremF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Congrats!
> 
> 1.52v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ???


I haven't messed with any bios settings yet. It's set on X.M.P. Profile 1 and doing everything itself... At the moment I have it set at the default 3.9GHz on the O/C panel, I don't bother with the 4.1GHz option but if need switch to the 4.2GHz option.

I had a quick look in and tried to set it to 4.4GHz or 4.5GHz but got a boot loop so reset. I didn't mess with any voltages.

When I have more time I need to read through this lot and try and figure the right manual settings.

Edit - I have just switched to the 4.2GHz o/c and the voltage shows as 1.376/1.392 V

Edit 2: Could the default setting with 1.52v be why I am unable to set it to 4.4/4.5GHz? If I find where that voltage is set and change it below 1.4v would it work?


----------



## JLMS2010

You haven't changed anything in the bios? I would look into that right away. That's a lot of voltage.


----------



## TremF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> You haven't changed anything in the bios? I would look into that right away. That's a lot of voltage.


It came overclocked from PC Specialist. I was lazy and didn't do the build myself this time


----------



## chrisnyc75

What is the multiplier set to? It looks like you validated when the system was idle and stepped down to 12x.

If the oem builder 'pre-clocked' it to 1.52v they most likely used one of the pre-set oc profiles in the bios. The voltages on those pre-sets have always struck me as absurd. Unfortunately there's no shortcut to easy mode overclocking. You should F10 to defaults and do it the old fashioned way, otherwise that shiney new system isn't going to last long at 1.52v.


----------



## TremF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> What is the multiplier set to? It looks like you validated when the system was idle and stepped down to 12x.
> 
> If the oem builder 'pre-clocked' it to 1.52v they most likely used one of the pre-set oc profiles in the bios. The voltages on those pre-sets have always struck me as absurd. Unfortunately there's no shortcut to easy mode overclocking. You should F10 to defaults and do it the old fashioned way, otherwise that shiney new system isn't going to last long at 1.52v.


Cheers for the advice. I have just gone into the bios and lowered it to 1.37v as the other o/c profiles are set for now until I know what I am doing with this board. I never had any temperature issue at the previous voltage but it could have been hindering getting to 4.4/4.5GHZ?

The default multiplier is x39

Here's the new validation with lower voltage setting...

http://valid.canardpc.com/hhhpl8


----------



## JLMS2010

There are some settings floating around here in this thread that you can use as a guide to start. If it's running at the default clock you should be able to lower it more.


----------



## TremF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> There are some settings floating around here in this thread that you can use as a guide to start. If it's running at the default clock you should be able to lower it more.


Cheers. I need a spare few hours to trundle my way through the 853 pages but I'll start at this end to catch the latest info first. As I know it can run at 4.2GHz at that voltage I just figured it was safe to set it for now - safer than 1.5v anyway


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TremF*
> 
> Cheers. I need a spare few hours to trundle my way through the 853 pages but I'll start at this end to catch the latest info first. As I know it can run at 4.2GHz at that voltage I just figured it was safe to set it for now - safer than 1.5v anyway


Here you go. That should give you a good starting point.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/2990#post_21451913


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Well, I has no ideas for ya. I've got no problems like that except when OC'd. Maybe a driver problem or something.


Well, that's reassuring.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TremF*
> 
> Cheers. I need a spare few hours to trundle my way through the 853 pages but I'll start at this end to catch the latest info first. As I know it can run at 4.2GHz at that voltage I just figured it was safe to set it for now - safer than 1.5v anyway


Start here: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Ivy-Bridge-E-Easy-Overclocking-Guide---The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=

Then move on to here to get more specific as time permits: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?5835-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Extreme-UEFI-Guide-for-Overclocking

Don't "wing it" -- if you don't know what a setting does, leave it on "Auto" until you find out. Depending on how long your vcore was running >1.5v it may have already done irreparable damage to your chip.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Start here: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Ivy-Bridge-E-Easy-Overclocking-Guide---The-Listy-Wordy-Edition&country=&status=
> 
> Then move on to here to get more specific as time permits: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?5835-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Extreme-UEFI-Guide-for-Overclocking
> 
> Don't "wing it" -- if you don't know what a setting does, leave it on "Auto" until you find out. Depending on how long your vcore was running >1.5v it may have already done irreparable damage to your chip.


Yeah, I'm amazed a "PC Specialist" would let a system go like that. I never would!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Yeah, I'm amazed a "PC Specialist" would let a system go like that. I never would!


Well, I've never bought a "pre-overclocked" system (because, really, why would I? lol), but I can't imagine many OEMs put in the hours it takes to properly overclock & stability test a system. My guess is they queued up the "Air Cooled Gamer's profile" hit save and shipped it out. Like I said, I've never wrapped my head around why in the world Asus provides those pre-configured profiles with such absurd settings. I believe the last time I loaded the "water cooler's profile" (just for kicks) it auto-set my vcore to something like 1.6v. In the hands of somebody not overly familiar with how overclocking works that can be VERY dangerous.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Yeah, I'm amazed a "PC Specialist" would let a system go like that. I never would!


... not too "specialist" I would say.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Well, I've never bought a "pre-overclocked" system (because, really, why would I? lol), but I can't imagine many OEMs put in the hours it takes to properly overclock & stability test a system. My guess is they queued up the "Air Cooled Gamer's profile" hit save and shipped it out. Like I said, I've never wrapped my head around why in the world Asus provides those pre-configured profiles with such absurd settings. I believe the last time I loaded the "water cooler's profile" (just for kicks) it auto-set my vcore to something like 1.6v. In the hands of somebody not overly familiar with how overclocking works that can be VERY dangerous.


Yeah, I agree. I never understood it either. I'm sure they don't spend a lot of time doing it. I have built several systems for people, but I did spend a lot of time overclocking it for them. So far nobody has had any issues, but I'm pretty conservative when it's not mine.







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> ... not too "specialist" I would say.


LOL nope


----------



## Jpmboy

Although i really prefer offset voltage, 166 strap is working well on the board/cpu. A modest 4.66, but rock stable.

(just don't like leaving it sitting bouncing between 1.328-1.344V - 1.338 actual by DMM...







)


----------



## spqmax

which backplates have we confirmed that have no issues with dimm clearance? i'll be moving my ti classifieds to another rig and replacing them (temporarily) with my regular Ti, which of course will get the water treatment. I was thinking about getting an aquacomputer block, but as many have confirmed their backplate active or not doesn't quite allow for a snug fit. So I could maybe pair an aquacomputer block with an ek/evga backplate? I only want it to add rigidity to the card, it will be in a reverse atx case, so the backplate won't be visible. Just want to make sure before I order anything







Thanks!


----------



## tistou77

With the 0603 bios, I have more problem boot compared to 0602.








With the 0602, not enough Vcore and bios reset to 0 at boot after a cold start (when it was stable in bench, etc ...)
To see if it's ok thereafter

It is still not possible to use the "Offset Mode" with a BCLK to 125?

Thanks


----------



## [email protected]

125 strap breaks some of the power features - this is down to Intel not ASUS. You have to use 100 if you want that stuff to work.

As for VCore - just set the Vcore the CPU needs and stop worrying about it. POST from AC cycle retrains CPU - that is more stressful than stress tests on some systems and more stressfull than warm reset with NVRAM parameters.


----------



## tistou77

Ok for the Offset Mode and BCLK 125


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

100BCLK = Offset
125BCLK = without Offset


----------



## bayside500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ............ POST from AC cycle retrains CPU - that is more stressful than stress tests on some systems and more stressfull than warm reset with NVRAM parameters.


can you please explain what that means ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

No doubt.

Me reading then rereading Raja's last post:


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> 125 strap breaks some of the power features - this is down to Intel not ASUS. You have to use 100 if you want that stuff to work.
> 
> As for VCore - just set the Vcore the CPU needs and stop worrying about it. *POST from AC cycle retrains CPU - that is more stressful than stress tests on some systems and more stressfull than warm reset with NVRAM parameters*.










This seems like an important point Raja... please explain a little. Does a clock gen reset = post from AC cycle?


----------



## Neb9

Can anyone help with this. It could be an mobo compatibility issue, Im not sure.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1497232/g-kill-f3-2400c11q-16gxm-not-working-with-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-and-4960x


----------



## [email protected]

If the board is shutdown and power removed that is ac power cycle.

don't have time to explain it all to you guys but ill give a brief overview. the memory and pcie bus needs training at each shutdown. Signal lines are deskewed against each other to ensure timing accuracy. The process for this involves sending data patterns over the bus and measuring the time it takes for each line to return data. Over 1000 write and read operations are performed on dram and if any anomalies are found the system will either drop a rank or may fail to post. Same goes for the pcie bus. These operations are like mini tests.

There are also impedance adjustments made for each driver stage that is involved in driving signals over the bus. At power cycle this training is more involved as each line needs to be setup from scratch.

a lengthy time in standby state can also result in longer training routine.

warm resets are easier in a system as the information found in the longer training routines of initial post are stored and recalled from nvram. Warm reset has shorter training routines that account for variations in temperature which can result in impedance changes due to the temp coefficient of copper and changes in signal swing due to driver operating temps. These routines are easier to pass.

the longer training routines may need boot up voltage to be higher than what one needs in the os or a stress test. This is why one should be cautious when dialling in an overclock by reducing voltages to their minimum possible value. in fact some of the signal lines may need lower voltages to pass training than they do to work in the os.

i did hint at all of this in one of the guides i posted links to in this thread some time ago. Its over on Rog forums and gives a laymen example of signaling and other discourse about overclocking. Recommend you guys read it. Its in the rampage section of the forum.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bayside500*
> 
> can you please explain what that means ?


cold boot is harder than reboot, and harder than some stress tests.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> If the board is shutdown and power removed that is ac power cycle.
> 
> don't have time to explain it all to you guys but ill give a brief overview. the memory and pcie bus needs training at each shutdown. Signal lines are deskewed against each other to ensure timing accuracy. The process for this involves sending data patterns over the bus and measuring the time it takes for each line to return data. Over 1000 write and read operations are performed on dram and if any anomalies are found the system will either drop a rank or may fail to post. Same goes for the pcie bus. These operations are like mini tests.
> 
> There are also impedance adjustments made for each driver stage that is involved in driving signals over the bus. At power cycle this training is more involved as each line needs to be setup from scratch.
> 
> a lengthy time in standby state can also result in longer training routine.
> 
> warm resets are easier in a system as the information found in the longer training routines of initial post are stored and recalled from nvram. Warm reset has shorter training routines that account for variations in temperature which can result in impedance changes due to the temp coefficient of copper and changes in signal swing due to driver operating temps. These routines are easier to pass.
> 
> the longer training routines may need boot up voltage to be higher than what one needs in the os or a stress test. This is why one should be cautious when dialling in an overclock by reducing voltages to their minimum possible value. in fact some of the signal lines may need lower voltages to pass training than they do to work in the os.
> 
> i did hint at all of this in one of the guides i posted links to in this thread some time ago. Its over on Rog forums and gives a laymen example of signaling and other discourse about overclocking. Recommend you guys read it. Its in the rampage section of the forum.


Thanks big guy!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> If the board is shutdown and power removed that is ac power cycle.
> 
> don't have time to explain it all to you guys but ill give a brief overview. the memory and pcie bus needs training at each shutdown. Signal lines are deskewed against each other to ensure timing accuracy. The process for this involves sending data patterns over the bus and measuring the time it takes for each line to return data. Over 1000 write and read operations are performed on dram and if any anomalies are found the system will either drop a rank or may fail to post. Same goes for the pcie bus. These operations are like mini tests.
> 
> There are also impedance adjustments made for each driver stage that is involved in driving signals over the bus. At power cycle this training is more involved as each line needs to be setup from scratch.
> 
> a lengthy time in standby state can also result in longer training routine.
> 
> warm resets are easier in a system as the information found in the longer training routines of initial post are stored and recalled from nvram. Warm reset has shorter training routines that account for variations in temperature which can result in impedance changes due to the temp coefficient of copper and changes in signal swing due to driver operating temps. These routines are easier to pass.
> 
> the longer training routines may need boot up voltage to be higher than what one needs in the os or a stress test. This is why one should be cautious when dialling in an overclock by reducing voltages to their minimum possible value. in fact some of the signal lines may need lower voltages to pass training than they do to work in the os.
> 
> i did hint at all of this in one of the guides i posted links to in this thread some time ago. Its over on Rog forums and gives a laymen example of signaling and other discourse about overclocking. Recommend you guys read it. Its in the rampage section of the forum.


Much appreciated by the asus owners here! So, i'm assuming a clock gen reset (eg, strap or bclk change, or when changing from 45x to 46x 100) is as hard on the cpu as a cold - like, shut off the psu - boot, vs a routine shutdown where power is maintained to the board?

Right?


----------



## Errorist66

And that's why computer that are on 24/7 in data center or at home last forever.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> And that's why computer that are on 24/7 in data center or at home last forever.


yeah - mine are on 24/7... but I do "stress" them a bit.


----------



## jpinks

Hey guys I have a question my Logitech G5 mouse keeps being lost on system restart. (Windows 8) If I unplug it and replug it in winblows finds it and it works fine after. But on each restart it loses the mouse.

ALSO I have a Corsair H100i and a R9 295x2, i just finished and I want to try some quick OC'ing and benches. Should I use the Watercooled presets in the advanced setting just to get some quick tests or is that only a setting to be used on a FULL WC loop???


----------



## Mega Man

i wouldnt, it overvolts way too much


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nunzi*
> 
> Ok Back to bios 0403 for me the new bios turns my pc on from the USB mouse or keyboard!
> 
> The crazy thing is it only does this once after power off from windows
> 
> Thoughts?


UP Date....... After removing my Xbox360 controller putting mouse & keyboard in the first 2 USB ports

Problem is fixed!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anyone here know if the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition supports the same RAM-modules as the Asus Rampage IV Gene? I have a Crucial BallistiX Elite 1866 Mhz that worked in quad channel on the Rampage IV Gene (in CPU-Z under memory) and now I need a new motherboard so I wanted to maybe try the RIVBE again (first one did not work properly). Before anyone start blaming me for doing something wrong, I did the exactly same thing with the Gene as with the Black Edition and it ran just fine.

In the "R4BE_DRAM_QVL"-file which can be found on asus.com it says BLE4G3D1869DE1TX0.16FMD when I have the BLE4G3D1869DE1TX0.16FMR (which worked great on the Gene even though it is not supported in the "R4G_DRAM_QVL"-file for the Gene board, not any of the files). If I have to buy new memory it will cost me at least 317 USD for 16 gigabytes, I would just like to know if the RIVBE is more picky on the RAM-modules than the RIVG, is it? In that case, how is the old RIVF or the old RIVE with RAM-modules compared to RIVG?

Anyone having problems with 4x cards in quad crossfire on the RIVBE?


----------



## Mega Man

i never have had a problem with quadfire


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i never have had a problem with quadfire


Hmm, I really thought there was some issues with it, everything always running fine without using 3rd party software to get everything to work properly? Well, in that case Nvidia has something to learn from AMD.

Anyone know if the RIVBE is more picky on RAM than the RIVG?


----------



## reev3r

Okay, one of my reasons for getting this board is the PCIe lanes for multi-GPU... Unfortunately, I have discovered that even though both of my GTX 670 FTW cards are in x16 supported slots, one of them polls as x8. I doubt there is a performance hit and, if so, negligible, but it is the principle of the thing...

Any help would be grateful...

Thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

do you have anything in the other slots ?


----------



## vulcan78

Here's my rig completely finished, how do I go about joining RIVBE Club? Let me know what you guys think.


----------



## szeged

video is private







might wanna fix that.


----------



## Zimzoid

Hey guys my old Corsair AX1200 psu needs replacing, and i cant decide which of these to get? Coolermaster V Series Platinum V1200 or the SEASONIC Platinum Series 1200W i know the CM is basically the same as the Seasonic just with slightly different design, the CM is $70 cheaper here and uses a pci hybrid fan controller bracket while the Seasonic has that built into the psu.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hey guys my old Corsair AX1200 psu needs replacing, and i cant decide which of these to get? Coolermaster V Series Platinum V1200 or the SEASONIC Platinum Series 1200W i know the CM is basically the same as the Seasonic just with slightly different design, the CM is $70 cheaper here and uses a pci hybrid fan controller bracket while the Seasonic has that built into the psu.


Cooler Master v1200.

Did you need ~1200w? If so, the EVGA 1300w G2 is another great option.


----------



## reev3r

Yes, a single Sound Blaster in a x1 slot. Other than that, nothing. I tried to force it with the PCIe utility, but this created various instabilities...

Hopefully someone will help me to sort this...


----------



## Mega Man

are you sure it is in the right slot ?


----------



## reev3r

I have them installed in the top slot, and in the third physical x16 slot. So:

Occupied x16 slot (GPU)
No slot
Empty x8 (physical x16) slot
Occupied x1 slot (Sound Card)
Occupied x16 slot (GPU)
Empty x1 slot
Empty x8 (physical x16) slot

Not certain what it could be, I have not run SLI in many years, in fact, since my 6600GT cards in/around 2004.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I have them installed in the top slot, and in the third physical x16 slot. So:
> 
> Occupied x16 slot (GPU)
> No slot
> Empty x8 (physical x16) slot
> Occupied x1 slot (Sound Card)
> Occupied x16 slot (GPU)
> Empty x1 slot
> Empty x8 (physical x16) slot
> 
> Not certain what it could be, I have not run SLI in many years, in fact, since my 6600GT cards in/around 2004.


Clean the slot out with a tooth brush and also clean the contacts on the card. If that don't work, then reseat the cpu. Check for bent cpu pins too when reseating. Couple things I'd do.


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I have them installed in the top slot, and in the third physical x16 slot. So:
> 
> Occupied x16 slot (GPU)
> No slot
> Empty x8 (physical x16) slot
> Occupied x1 slot (Sound Card)
> Occupied x16 slot (GPU)
> Empty x1 slot
> Empty x8 (physical x16) slot
> 
> Not certain what it could be, I have not run SLI in many years, in fact, since my 6600GT cards in/around 2004.


I'm setup like this too, with sound card & sli

try putting the card in question in the first slot & check that's its reporting x16 3.0

not sure what ells to look for....... Bios ? driver ?


----------



## bastian

Another new BIOS out, 701.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> Another new BIOS out, 701.


This one could have the same "fix" the bios 4901 has for the RIVE (released few days apart), but as usual, the description is the generic "Improve system stability.".


----------



## szeged

Still on release bios, don't think I'm missing much lol.


----------



## Kimir

DO NOT fix something that is not broken, right?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> DO NOT fix something that is not broken, right?


LOL ummmmm yeah...... that's the OCN motto























I think i made a mistake....


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Okay, so I guess there will be another Asus Rampage IV Black Edition after all with some CMD32GX3M4A2133C9 RAM, my current memory is not supported in the DRAM_QVL so I guess I will try the Corsair Platinum instead. Is 2133 Mhz good, or should I look at something like 2666 Mhz instead?

Going for the Corsair Dominator Platinum because of color-scheme of my build.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, so I guess there will be another Asus Rampage IV Black Edition after all with some CMD32GX3M4A2133C9 RAM, my current memory is not supported in the DRAM_QVL so I guess I will try the Corsair Platinum instead. Is 2133 Mhz good, or should I look at something like 2666 Mhz instead?
> 
> Going for the Corsair Dominator Platinum because of color-scheme of my build.


I'm running 2666+ just fine. 2133 should be equally easy, if 4 GB sticks.

Heck, really any 4 GB stick works well. It's just the 8 GB sticks that give problems at the high end, or when having 64 GB, and I don't think the board's got anything to do with those problems, honestly. Just beucase it's not on QVL doesn't mean it will not work, and being on the QVL doesn't guarantee your CPU will cooperate.


----------



## Kimir

2666+ will depend on your CPU IMC.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> video is private
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> might wanna fix that.


Sorry about that, last two videos were set to public by default, don't know what changed with this one. Let me know what you guys think and I'd like to join the club!


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Okay, one of my reasons for getting this board is the PCIe lanes for multi-GPU... Unfortunately, I have discovered that even though both of my GTX 670 FTW cards are in x16 supported slots, one of them polls as x8. I doubt there is a performance hit and, if so, negligible, but it is the principle of the thing...
> 
> Any help would be grateful...
> 
> Thanks.


Performance hit using x8 vs x16 is totally negligible, 1-2%.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hey guys my old Corsair AX1200 psu needs replacing, and i cant decide which of these to get? Coolermaster V Series Platinum V1200 or the SEASONIC Platinum Series 1200W i know the CM is basically the same as the Seasonic just with slightly different design, the CM is $70 cheaper here and uses a pci hybrid fan controller bracket while the Seasonic has that built into the psu.


Why do you feel you need 1200+W for 780 SLI? 780 Ti SLI here and zero issues with a Corsair RM850 AND a 4930 @ 4.6GHz, even at +100 core/+300 memory.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Why do you feel you need 1200+W for 780 SLI? 780 Ti SLI here and zero issues with a Corsair RM850 AND a 4930 @ 4.6GHz, even at +100 core/+300 memory.


Was going to get a 3rd card at some stage, do you think 1200w is to much for a tri-sli setup?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I'm running 2666+ just fine. 2133 should be equally easy, if 4 GB sticks.
> 
> Heck, really any 4 GB stick works well. It's just the 8 GB sticks that give problems at the high end, or when having 64 GB, and I don't think the board's got anything to do with those problems, honestly. Just beucase it's not on QVL doesn't mean it will not work, and being on the QVL doesn't guarantee your CPU will cooperate.


The kit I referred to is 4x 8GB for 32 GB at 2133 Mhz, I can also get the exactly same kit only with 2666 Mhz. Will probably do 32 GB just to be on the safe side.

So ... you are saying that my Crucial ram may work with this board?

I am using the 3930K which is stable at stock multiplayer at 1,2v (will set the voltage manually this time), the 3930K worked great with the Crucial BallistiX Elite 1866 Mhz (XMP) on the Rampage IV Gene board, so it should work on the Black Edition too, but if the Black Edition is much more picky on the ram than the Gene then I have a problem. The cheapest solution is just using the ram I got and it will run at quad channel (did that on the Gene board without problems). Then again, the Black Edition may be more picky on ram than the Gene. If I do not get my ram to work with the board I have to buy new ram, I hope I do not have to do that because ram-prices are extreme these days.

I kind of hope that the last Black Edition board I had was faulty, because I do not think the CPU was the problem, then I only have the ram that could cause all those BSOD's. Will give it another try, but if it do not work the second time I am going with another board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> 2666+ will depend on your CPU IMC.


I will be using the 3930K which work great with 1866 Mhz ram, at least at the Asus Rampage IV Gene board.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, so I guess there will be another Asus Rampage IV Black Edition after all with some CMD32GX3M4A2133C9 RAM, my current memory is not supported in the DRAM_QVL so I guess I will try the Corsair Platinum instead. Is 2133 Mhz good, or should I look at something like 2666 Mhz instead?
> 
> Going for the Corsair Dominator Platinum because of color-scheme of my build.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running 2666+ just fine. 2133 should be equally easy, if 4 GB sticks.
> 
> Heck, really any 4 GB stick works well. It's just the 8 GB sticks that give problems at the high end, or when having 64 GB, and I don't think the board's got anything to do with those problems, honestly. Just beucase it's not on QVL doesn't mean it will not work, and being on the QVL doesn't guarantee your CPU will cooperate.
Click to expand...

fun and ironic fact !

my 2 mismatched 8gbx2 ( 32gb total ) work great with my RIVBE/3930k @ 2400 10-12-12-1 ( rated at 2t )

however i just got the 4x4 kit ( matched ) of the same specs ( all are trident x, and yes i no no guarantee ) which wont even boot @ 2400/ stock speeds and or 1600 ( base defaults )

IRONY !~

have yet to try the new bios


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Why do you feel you need 1200+W for 780 SLI? 780 Ti SLI here and zero issues with a Corsair RM850 AND a 4930 @ 4.6GHz, even at +100 core/+300 memory.


There is need of such wattage when you overvolt you graphic cards, I hit 1100w with daily clock easily and goes up to 1400w on the wall when benching at some crazy voltages.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I will be using the 3930K which work great with 1866 Mhz ram, at least at the Asus Rampage IV Gene board.


My 3930k could manage 2400Mhz, but it's rare to find one doing 2666 (and remember that doing so it's bye bye to offset voltage since it need 125 strap), better go for a good set of 2133. Or like I do with 2600 (2666 will do the same) one reduced to 2133 with tightened timings.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, so I guess there will be another Asus Rampage IV Black Edition after all with some CMD32GX3M4A2133C9 RAM, my current memory is not supported in the DRAM_QVL so I guess I will try the Corsair Platinum instead. Is 2133 Mhz good, or should I look at something like 2666 Mhz instead?
> 
> Going for the Corsair Dominator Platinum because of color-scheme of my build.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running 2666+ just fine. 2133 should be equally easy, if 4 GB sticks.
> 
> Heck, really any 4 GB stick works well. It's just the 8 GB sticks that give problems at the high end, or when having 64 GB, and I don't think the board's got anything to do with those problems, honestly. Just beucase it's not on QVL doesn't mean it will not work, and being on the QVL doesn't guarantee your CPU will cooperate.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> fun and ironic fact !
> 
> my 2 mismatched 8gbx2 ( 32gb total ) work great with my RIVBE/3930k @ 2400 10-12-12-1 ( rated at 2t )
> 
> however i just got the 4x4 kit ( matched ) of the same specs ( all are trident x, and yes i no no guarantee ) which wont even boot @ 2400/ stock speeds and or 1600 ( base defaults )
> 
> IRONY !~
> 
> have yet to try the new bios
Click to expand...

good news, new bios seems to help ! still need to stress it ! but i am again booting at same speeds

edit it also seemed to help my mem scores alot !!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fun and ironic fact !
> 
> my 2 mismatched 8gbx2 ( 32gb total ) work great with my RIVBE/3930k @ 2400 10-12-12-1 ( rated at 2t )
> 
> however i just got the 4x4 kit ( matched ) of the same specs ( all are trident x, and yes i no no guarantee ) which wont even boot @ 2400/ stock speeds and or 1600 ( base defaults )
> 
> IRONY !~
> 
> have yet to try the new bios


I see, that is a little weird.

Do you know if the Kingston Beast 32 GB (KHX24C11T3K4/32X) work at 2400 Mhz (XMP) at the RIVBE? It is alot cheaper than the Platinums and I have no problem going all black on color-scheme. It is supported by the "R4B_DRAM_QVL" if that has anything to say. I got the feeling that the Asus P9X79-E WS owners had problems with those RAM-modules and they could only get them running at 1333 Mhz, not the 2400 Mhz. Anyone know how these sticks work with RIVBE?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> good news, new bios seems to help ! still need to stress it ! but i am again booting at same speeds
> 
> edit it also seemed to help my mem scores alot !!


Okay, that is good news I guess, but I would still like to know if the (KHX24C11T3K4/32X) would do it for me.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> My 3930k could manage 2400Mhz, but it's rare to find one doing 2666 (and remember that doing so it's bye bye to offset voltage since it need 125 strap), better go for a good set of 2133. Or like I do with 2600 (2666 will do the same) one reduced to 2133 with tightened timings.


I see, I can get the 32 gigabytes of Kingston Beast for roughly 433 USD which is an okay price compared to the Platinums, but the Kingston sticks is 2400, but should I be good then?

KHX24C11T3K4/32X is the number of the RAM-modules

I keep my budget if I go with the Kingston-kit.


----------



## Kimir

Those should work just fine, but I see the G.Skill trident X and Ripjaws Z 4x8Go 2400Mhz are cheaper here, and lower timing (10-12-12 instead of 11-13-13 of the Kingston), are they not available where you are?


----------



## WAhoot

Does anyone have a photo of how to best connect an antec 1300 platinum psu to the iv black?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> There is need of such wattage when you overvolt you graphic cards, I hit 1100w with daily clock easily and goes up to 1400w on the wall when benching at some crazy voltages.
> My 3930k could manage 2400Mhz, but it's rare to find one doing 2666 (and remember that doing so it's bye bye to offset voltage since it need 125 strap), better go for a good set of 2133. *Or like I do with 2600 (2666 will do the same) one reduced to 2133 with tightened timings*.


^^ This
c8 2133 is very quick.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> good news, new bios seems to help ! still need to stress it ! but i am again booting at same speeds
> 
> edit it also seemed to help my mem scores alot !!


Nice, just watch for that write speed to drop to mid-40s - think the new bios addressed that issue??. Actually, those speeds seem a little ow for 2400. I think it should be mid 60s for read and copy, high 60s for write (esp @ 4.7GHz). What timings (for comparison before I flash







)


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WAhoot*
> 
> Does anyone have a photo of how to best connect an antec 1300 platinum psu to the iv black?


How to best connect? just connect all the mobo power connectors. (including the 4-pin molex)


----------



## bastian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> DO NOT fix something that is not broken, right?


Well, I have found on my 3930k that BIOS 701 is more stable. As we all know Sandy E's since release have had issues with the Black.
Something else I noticed is some of the voltages on AUTO settings have changed to be slightly higher by default.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Those should work just fine, but I see the G.Skill trident X and Ripjaws Z 4x8Go 2400Mhz are cheaper here, and lower timing (10-12-12 instead of 11-13-13 of the Kingston), are they not available where you are?


I have just looked at the Kingston-kit because the memory I had before was Kingston and i was quite happy with it. The Gskill have many colors, but i still think i will go for the Kingston-kit. As for speeds it is okay with 2400 mhz?


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Was going to get a 3rd card at some stage, do you think 1200w is to much for a tri-sli setup?


No man, 3x SLI with GK110 youre going to need that kind of wattage. For 2x SLI it's overkill. Figure you will need an additional 250 (reference 780) to 325 W (EVGA 780 Ti Classified) so If say I'm meeting my power needs with an RM850 with maybe 50-100 W to spare you would need a 1k PSU minimum as a 3930 is very similar to a 4930 power consumption-wise and then you need to factor in overclocking and also that some of these PSU's can lose 5% efficiency year over year (the gold rated PSU's tend to hold up better).

Here is a good calculator that I used when designing my rig. Initially I was only planning on going with one EVGA 780 Ti SC w/ ACX (275 W) for a while but wanted to be able to add another later so I went with the RM850 even though it is overkill for a single PSU system. I ended up picking up the second GPU a lot faster than anticipated (partly because I am excited about the prospects of ROG Swift and want to be able to render Witcher 3, Batman: Arkham Knight and some of my more demanding existing games at a glorious 2560x1440 without a hiccup) I have zero issues even with +100 core/+300 memory on the cards and the 4930 @ 4.6GHz. This is a good PSU.

http://www.extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine

Youre going to need a 1200 W PSU 3x SLI.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fun and ironic fact !
> 
> my 2 mismatched 8gbx2 ( 32gb total ) work great with my RIVBE/3930k @ 2400 10-12-12-1 ( rated at 2t )
> 
> however i just got the 4x4 kit ( matched ) of the same specs ( all are trident x, and yes i no no guarantee ) which wont even boot @ 2400/ stock speeds and or 1600 ( base defaults )
> 
> IRONY !~
> 
> have yet to try the new bios


LOL! Talk about the irony, youre rewarded for rebelling against conventional wisdom and punished for adhering to it. Well I got away with a mismatched set of 4x8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz, but I know that I am lucky and to be honest I can't push greater than 2133MHz even at 1.650V but I think that is because of the inherent limitations of the memory itself, not any kind of mismatch.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WAhoot*
> 
> Does anyone have a photo of how to best connect an antec 1300 platinum psu to the iv black?


It's pretty straight forward, you have the 8 Pin connector on the right (and another plug right below it), a 4 pin on the top and a "EZ Plug" on the bottom that most forget, just look at the manual and don't forget to connect the EZ Power plug on the bottom. Surprised no-one here responded to you already. Let us know if you need more help.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I see, I can get the 32 gigabytes of Kingston Beast for roughly 433 USD which is an okay price compared to the Platinums, but the Kingston sticks is 2400, but should I be good then?
> 
> KHX24C11T3K4/32X is the number of the RAM-modules
> 
> I keep my budget if I go with the Kingston-kit.


I picked up my 32GB of Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz (CMY16GX3M2A2133C11) from ebay for $260.....Two separate kits, $130 each, one kit used. No problems, at 2133MHz @ 1.65V. I highly recommend Akasa copper low-profile heat-spreaders if using a large air cooler:






http://www.ebay.com/itm/CORSAIR-Vengeance-Pro-16GB-2-x-8GB-CMY16GX3M2A2133C11-240-Pin-DDR3-SDRAM-DDR3-/281368168737?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item4182d98921


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I picked up my 32GB of Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz (CMY16GX3M2A2133C11) from ebay for $260.....Two separate kits, $130 each, one kit used. No problems, at 2133MHz @ 1.65V. I highly recommend Akasa copper low-profile heat-spreaders if using a large air cooler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CORSAIR-Vengeance-Pro-16GB-2-x-8GB-CMY16GX3M2A2133C11-240-Pin-DDR3-SDRAM-DDR3-/281368168737?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item4182d98921


Yeah, I buy pretty much everything else than pc-parts on ebay because it is impossible to return it if I have problems with the items. And there is taxes too, which is 25 % of the total amount, then it is not that much cheaper really. On another note, I usually buy new computer parts too, first time I have bought anything used was the 3930K.

I think I will go for the Kingston-kit and hope for the best, but thanks anyway. Nice build by the way.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hey guys my old Corsair AX1200 psu needs replacing, and i cant decide which of these to get? Coolermaster V Series Platinum V1200 or the SEASONIC Platinum Series 1200W i know the CM is basically the same as the Seasonic just with slightly different design, the CM is $70 cheaper here and uses a pci hybrid fan controller bracket while the Seasonic has that built into the psu.


FWIW, No idea if you're in the US or not, but if so Newegg has the EVGA SuperNOVA 1300W PSU right now for $150 after $30 rebate. It's a good PSU with a 10 year warranty.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Was going to get a 3rd card at some stage, do you think 1200w is to much for a tri-sli setup?
> 
> 
> 
> No man, 3x SLI with GK110 youre going to need that kind of wattage. For 2x SLI it's overkill. Figure you will need an additional 250 (reference 780) to 325 W (EVGA 780 Ti Classified) so If say I'm meeting my power needs with an RM850 with maybe 50-100 W to spare you would need a 1k PSU minimum as a 3930 is very similar to a 4930 power consumption-wise and then you need to factor in overclocking and also that some of these PSU's can lose 5% efficiency year over year (the gold rated PSU's tend to hold up better).
> 
> Here is a good calculator that I used when designing my rig. Initially I was only planning on going with one EVGA 780 Ti SC w/ ACX (275 W) for a while but wanted to be able to add another later so I went with the RM850 even though it is overkill for a single PSU system. I ended up picking up the second GPU a lot faster than anticipated (partly because I am excited about the prospects of ROG Swift and want to be able to render Witcher 3, Batman: Arkham Knight and some of my more demanding existing games at a glorious 2560x1440 without a hiccup) I have zero issues even with +100 core/+300 memory on the cards and the 4930 @ 4.6GHz. This is a good PSU.
> 
> http://www.extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine
> 
> Youre going to need a 1200 W PSU 3x SLI.
Click to expand...

one of @shilka "rules"

dont use psu calculators.... they are horribly wrong most of the time !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WAhoot*
> 
> Does anyone have a photo of how to best connect an antec 1300 platinum psu to the iv black?
> 
> 
> 
> It's pretty straight forward, you have the 8 Pin connector on the right (and another plug right below it), a 4 pin on the top and a "EZ Plug" on the bottom that most forget, just look at the manual and don't forget to connect the EZ Power plug on the bottom. Surprised no-one here responded to you already. Let us know if you need more help.
Click to expand...

i did, i said all of them ( if not then i did and fell asleep before hitting submit )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I picked up my 32GB of Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133MHz (CMY16GX3M2A2133C11) from ebay for $260.....Two separate kits, $130 each, one kit used. No problems, at 2133MHz @ 1.65V. I highly recommend Akasa copper low-profile heat-spreaders if using a large air cooler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CORSAIR-Vengeance-Pro-16GB-2-x-8GB-CMY16GX3M2A2133C11-240-Pin-DDR3-SDRAM-DDR3-/281368168737?pt=US_Memory_RAM_&hash=item4182d98921
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I buy pretty much everything else than pc-parts on ebay because it is impossible to return it if I have problems with the items. And there is taxes too, which is 25 % of the total amount, then it is not that much cheaper really. On another note, I usually buy new computer parts too, first time I have bought anything used was the 3930K.
> 
> I think I will go for the Kingston-kit and hope for the best, but thanks anyway. Nice build by the way.
Click to expand...

25% i would move quick !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hey guys my old Corsair AX1200 psu needs replacing, and i cant decide which of these to get? Coolermaster V Series Platinum V1200 or the SEASONIC Platinum Series 1200W i know the CM is basically the same as the Seasonic just with slightly different design, the CM is $70 cheaper here and uses a pci hybrid fan controller bracket while the Seasonic has that built into the psu.
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW, No idea if you're in the US or not, but if so Newegg has the EVGA SuperNOVA 1300W PSU right now for $150 after $30 rebate. It's a good PSU with a 10 year warranty.
Click to expand...

agreed!


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, No idea if you're in the US or not, but if so Newegg has the EVGA SuperNOVA 1300W PSU right now for $150 after $30 rebate. It's a good PSU with a 10 year warranty.


Thanks but no EVGA SuperNOVA available here yet, just going to go with the Seasonic Platinum 1200w that should do nicely


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Yeah, I buy pretty much everything else than pc-parts on ebay because it is impossible to return it if I have problems with the items. And there is taxes too, which is 25 % of the total amount, then it is not that much cheaper really. On another note, I usually buy new computer parts too, first time I have bought anything used was the 3930K.
> 
> I think I will go for the Kingston-kit and hope for the best, but thanks anyway. Nice build by the way.


Yeah it was somewhat of a gamble although most reputable sellers will take returns, at least that has been my experience. If the initial 2x8 set (not the used set) didn't work I would've asked for a refund. It was a total gamble as the aforementioned memory wasn't even on the Qualified Vendor's List and many if not everyone recommended against Corsair Vengeance (not sure about Corsair Vengeance Pro) but for $260 it was too good of a deal to pass up. 25% total taxes?! Where are you located? I haven't paid taxes for anything on ebay, since, well I can't remember ever paying taxes on ebay! Maybe it is a state specific law. I have noticed that I am being charged between 8-10% tax on amazon.com lately and hence all of the high dollar items, nearly everything in my PC was purchased from Newegg.com. It's not thrilling to go on amazon.com and think you have the best price only to find that you are paying an additional $50 on top of a $500 motherboard. The motherboard is the only item I purchased on amazon.com because there was a remote chance that it was wither DOA or dead within a month's time or some other problem and I've only heard horror stories about Asus RMA (yes [email protected], we don't like your RMA shenanigans and are circumventing it through amazon.com's no questions asked return policy) and didn't want to play the RMA game with them.

And thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, No idea if you're in the US or not, but if so Newegg has the EVGA SuperNOVA 1300W PSU right now for $150 after $30 rebate. It's a good PSU with a 10 year warranty.


Damn that is a great deal on a PSU for those who want room to grow and a 10 year warranty to top it off! That's about what I paid for my RM850.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> one of @shilka "rules"
> 
> dont use psu calculators.... they are horribly wrong most of the time !
> i did, i said all of them ( if not then i did and fell asleep before hitting submit )
> 25% i would move quick !
> agreed!


Oh ok, yeah while doing the calculations I did feel that there was an entire area of potential miscalculation going on with various non-reference GPU's pulling different wattage (i.e. 780 Ti Classified pulling 325W) and the whole CPU GHz to power requirement not accounting for voltage and what not.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 25% i would move quick !


Yes, not really an option, student at college in my hometown.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Yeah it was somewhat of a gamble although most reputable sellers will take returns, at least that has been my experience. If the initial 2x8 set (not the used set) didn't work I would've asked for a refund. It was a total gamble as the aforementioned memory wasn't even on the Qualified Vendor's List and many if not everyone recommended against Corsair Vengeance (not sure about Corsair Vengeance Pro) but for $260 it was too good of a deal to pass up. 25% total taxes?! Where are you located? I haven't paid taxes for anything on ebay, since, well I can't remember ever paying taxes on ebay! Maybe it is a state specific law. I have noticed that I am being charged between 8-10% tax on amazon.com lately and hence all of the high dollar items, nearly everything in my PC was purchased from Newegg.com. It's not thrilling to go on amazon.com and think you have the best price only to find that you are paying an additional $50 on top of a $500 motherboard. The motherboard is the only item I purchased on amazon.com because there was a remote chance that it was wither DOA or dead within a month's time or some other problem and I've only heard horror stories about Asus RMA (yes [email protected], we don't like your RMA shenanigans and are circumventing it through amazon.com's no questions asked return policy) and didn't want to play the RMA game with them.


Yes, I know most sellers take things in return, but only the shipping cost is not worth it. I just ordered the second RIVBE and a Carbide Air 540, will buy the Kingston-memory if I do not get my current RAM to work with the board and I will try.


----------



## Nunzi

Need some help moving my windows 8.1 ssd from the asmedia ports to the Intel port I have 2 wd drives in raid 0

windows gets error trying to boot, raid drivers is loaded........ anything I can de before I reformat boot drive ?


----------



## kpoeticg

You tried connecting the raid array to 2 Intel SataII ports, and the SSD to a SataIII port? I don't think it would work any other way


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You tried connecting the raid array to 2 Intel SataII ports, and the SSD to a SataIII port? I don't think it would work any other way


yup, the problem is booting into windows get the error your pc ran into a problem & has to reboot


----------



## Audiophile20

Hi,

Starting a new build now finally! Would like some thoughts on CPU choice. I have a 3060x running on an ASRock board. That will serve as a NAS/server function and am starting the new build with an ASUS Extreme Black Ed. Board.. This machine will have 2x GTX Titan Black edition from EVGA.

Now for the processor; my options are:

1. Put the 3960x in the ASUS BEIV board and get a cheaper processor for the ASRock board. Maybe a cheaper IVB processor?
2. Leave the setup as is and get a XENON or a newer IVB.processor. If anyone here is using a Xenon processor with mobo please comment?

Both setup will be used for media encoding and file hosting functions.

Thank you in advance!


----------



## kpoeticg

I've never tried to run a raid 0 + a boot drive. Maybe it would be best to back up the raid array and format the drives. Then boot AHCI

I know you can't split a raid array, so you'll probly have to back it up however you had em hooked up previously


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've never tried to run a raid 0 + a boot drive. Maybe it would be best to back up the raid array and format the drives. Then boot AHCI
> 
> I know you can't split a raid array, so you'll probly have to back it up however you had em hooked up previously


TY brother......


----------



## kpoeticg

NP. I'm not really sure it's possible to do what you were trying without a PCIE Raid Card.


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> NP. I'm not really sure it's possible to do what you were trying without a PCIE Raid Card.


Probably going to leave it alone.......just that im not getting all the performance I should out of the asmedia controller

but its still FAST


----------



## kpoeticg

It's kinda backwards to run your boot drive from an Asmedia port and storage from Intel ports.

You don't really need your storage drives in raid 0 when you have an ssd boot drive. You're definitely sacrificing performance to the point that you kinda wasted money getting an ssd.

You should back up your storage and set it up properly, it's your call tho...


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's kinda backwards to run your boot drive from an Asmedia port and storage from Intel ports.
> 
> You don't really need your storage drives in raid 0 when you have an ssd boot drive. You're definitely sacrificing performance to the point that you kinda wasted money getting an ssd.
> 
> You should back up your storage and set it up properly, it's your call tho...


Well you cant do raid on the asmedi ports I have 2 wd raptors that I want to be in raid 0 for data & don't want to raid my SSD

anyway like I said the performance is still good on both the raid & SSD


----------



## kpoeticg

Well it's still early in the AM in the US. I'm far from an expert on raid, maybe it's possible and some1 can help you later in the day. Good luck =)

Edit: I think Yamicsoft Windows 7 Manager might have an option for adding the AHCI driver to your boot setup. It might be worth checking it out and doing some googling if you got time to kill


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well it's still early in the AM in the US. I'm far from an expert on raid, maybe it's possible and some1 can help you later in the day. Good luck =)


Thanks .....


----------



## NEOAethyr

I run a ssd boot with raid 0 array to the side, all on the intel.
For windows, you NEED to install the raid driver while installing windows, even though it will see the ssd just fine without it, if you install without the driver windows will destroy your array by writing a new boot sector to the drives (because it's invasive/stupid lol, it's another story...).
Then the raid rom won't beable to detect which comes 1st in the order...

When I 1st got the board I noticed windows could use the ssd even though it was in raid mode without the drivers.
So I just kept the 2 raid drives unhooked for a bit.
Installed windows and tried to change it to raid after that, which works fine on the amd platform.
This doesn't work on the intel platform at all, bsod because it never installs the driver even if it was installed manually (it didn't pick up an id to match with so I guess windows just says nah I'll throw the inf to the side and never install the actual service...)
So you either run with raid from the get go, or you do a fresh reinstall right after setting up raid in the bios.

Linux does not have that prob though, you can install to the ssd without a raid driver (aka config essentially with dmraid/kpartx or mdadm).
Then get the raid going after and it won't screw anything up.

To put it simply, ALWAYS install the raid driver for windows(at install) if you have an array, otherwise expect complete screw over of the data ^^.

Anyways, I've actually got the sdd, 2 drives in raid, and a bdr burner all on the intel working just fine together in raid mode.

As a side note, you can upgrade/downgrade the driver all you want while in windows, but you must initially install it during windows' install.
Oh and duh, use a usb stick for the driver, if you place it on the drive (say the ssd because windows can read that without the driver) and install it from there windows install will actually bsod, found that out a long long time ago on amd.

Edit:
As for actually ahci support and that stuff, I have no clue.
I've heard the raid supports trim... (it's a feature I don't really care about...)
I only used ahci for a little bit along time ago on a diff board and never gave a crap about it, always preferred raid mode even if there was no array.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I run a ssd boot with raid 0 array to the side, all on the intel.
> For windows, you NEED to install the raid driver while installing windows, even though it will see the ssd just fine without it, if you install without the driver windows will destroy your array by writing a new boot sector to the drives (because it's invasive/stupid lol, it's another story...).
> Then the raid rom won't beable to detect which comes 1st in the order...
> 
> When I 1st got the board I noticed windows could use the ssd even though it was in raid mode without the drivers.
> So I just kept the 2 raid drives unhooked for a bit.
> Installed windows and tried to change it to raid after that, which works fine on the amd platform.
> This doesn't work on the intel platform at all, bsod because it never installs the driver even if it was installed manually (it didn't pick up an id to match with so I guess windows just says nah I'll throw the inf to the side and never install the actual service...)
> So you either run with raid from the get go, or you do a fresh reinstall right after setting up raid in the bios.
> 
> Linux does not have that prob though, you can install to the ssd without a raid driver (aka config essentially with dmraid/kpartx or mdadm).
> Then get the raid going after and it won't screw anything up.
> 
> To put it simply, ALWAYS install the raid driver for windows(at install) if you have an array, otherwise expect complete screw over of the data ^^.
> 
> Anyways, I've actually got the sdd, 2 drives in raid, and a bdr burner all on the intel working just fine together in raid mode.
> 
> As a side note, you can upgrade/downgrade the driver all you want while in windows, but you must initially install it during windows' install.
> Oh and duh, use a usb stick for the driver, if you place it on the drive (say the ssd because windows can read that without the driver) and install it from there windows install will actually bsod, found that out a long long time ago on amd.
> 
> Edit:
> As for actually ahci support and that stuff, I have no clue.
> I've heard the raid supports trim... (it's a feature I don't really care about...)
> I only used ahci for a little bit along time ago on a diff board and never gave a crap about it, always preferred raid mode even if there was no array.


I don't think I used F6 driver on Win8. I use 60 GB SSD for OS and boot, RAID mechanical for games, and another single mechanical for storage.


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I don't think I used F6 driver on Win8. I use 60 GB SSD for OS and boot, RAID mechanical for games, and another single mechanical for storage.


Yeah I'm on win7 sp1...
Win8 might have a driver for it already, I mean it is an older platform afterall (made in 2011 or 2012..).


----------



## cadaveca

Most boards now come with utilities to switch between controller modes, but ASUS doesn't seem to have such a tool commonly distributed. Having lost too much data on RAID, I won't ever put anything on RAID drives that I need to keep, although at this point I think I don't even have anything worth keeping that can't be re-downloaded.

I also have a Win7 drive on ASMedia, and definitely needed F6 driver for that, RAID or not.


----------



## Nunzi

Thanks for all responses im trying to not reformat my ssd but looks like ill have to if I want to move over to Intel ports

its not like it runs bad but I know im not getting all I should

Thanks again guys THE BEST! Nunzi


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Most boards now come with utilities to switch between controller modes, but ASUS doesn't seem to have such a tool commonly distributed. Having lost too much data on RAID, I won't ever put anything on RAID drives that I need to keep, although at this point I think I don't even have anything worth keeping that can't be re-downloaded.
> 
> I also have a Win7 drive on ASMedia, and definitely needed F6 driver for that, RAID or not.


The funny thing is it tries to boot half way through I get the error that windows encountered an error

can I run a repair & load raid driver ? also the driver is installed all ready I have raid 0 setup

but I installed it after windows was installed


----------



## cadaveca

Moving from ASMedia to Intel, you gotta re-format, just to keep Windows as efficient as possible. I've done the whole Windows swap from board-to-board and controller-to-controller nearly weekly for many years now doing reviews, and it just never works completely right. Fresh-install Windows done right just _FEELS_ faster.

Building a system for long-term use, I now do set-up and OC in non-activated windows (gives ya 30 days to test), then once OC is set, I do a proper fresh install. Just pushing clocks can screw with Windows in weird ways that won't always make itself known right away. Anyway, ram amount ,VGAs, disc space, etc, Windows all uses this info for optimizations during install. Just adding memory, to me, means an OS refresh.

I also don't screw with page files or SSD stuff, since Windows8 and up are "SSD-aware".

Win7 is pretty outdated in this regard, and that in and of itself is enough to upgrade your OS, IMHO. It is a bit slower at times, I think, for games, but it just makes life easier for me being someone that uses their PC a lot and has a preference for maximum performance.

That OS that gets installed on the OC'ed system...gets imaged after set-up, put on an SSD, and the SSD is left in the system, disconnected. If you're RAIDing your OS drive, you might want to consider something similar so that when the RAID dies, you can be back up in seconds...


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Moving from ASMedia to Intel, you gotta re-format, just to keep Windows as efficient as possible. I've done the whole Windows swap from board-to-board and controller-to-controller nearly weekly for many years now doing reviews, and it just never works completely right. Fresh-install Windows done right just _FEELS_ faster.
> 
> Building a system for long-term use, I now do set-up and OC in non-activated windows (gives ya 30 days to test), then once OC is set, I do a proper fresh install. Just pushing clocks can screw with Windows in weird ways that won't always make itself known right away. Anyway, ram amount ,VGAs, disc space, etc, Windows all uses this info for optimizations during install. Just adding memory, to me, means an OS refresh.
> 
> I also don't screw with page files or SSD stuff, since Windows8 and up are "SSD-aware".
> 
> Win7 is pretty outdated in this regard, and that in and of itself is enough to upgrade your OS, IMHO. It is a bit slower at times, I think, for games, but it just makes life easier for me being someone that uses their PC a lot and has a preference for maximum performance.
> 
> That OS that gets installed on the OC'ed system...gets imaged after set-up, put on an SSD, and the SSD is left in the system, disconnected. If you're RAIDing your OS drive, you might want to consider something similar so that when the RAID dies, you can be back up in seconds...


Thank You my Brother!


----------



## denvers1

High people need some advice if you will please
I am running i7-4960x cpu Rampage iv black edition 64gb G.skill ram Samsung 840 evo 1TB
set my Blk to 161.008, Multiplier 30x, vcore 1.395v manually set VTTcpu voltage 1.100 and CPU vccsa manual to 1.100
Dram frequency DDR3-1720MHz cpuid shows 860.4 Dram frequency
Running 3 Geforce GTX 780ti in SLI air cooled
XTU bench shows 5.0GHz at 17c at idle my CPU is -5c using phase change cooling Cooler Express
My question is I can't get passed the 5.0GHz does anybody have any recomended settings that may help me get past this barrier?
I have a whole list of settings to long to post if you need to know one ask I will gladly tell you the setting I have
any advice good or bad is welcome thanks.

denverOC-XTU.jpg 210k .jpg file


----------



## nickolp1974

Hey guys, anyone elses chipset block(stock) get mega hot?? Mine feels very hot too the touch , i'd say twice as hot as the vrm's

Running at [email protected]
Vtt 1.1v sa 1.05v

Its really making me consider one of EK's monoblocks.


----------



## vulcan78

Does anyone running the new BIOS still have issues connecting external drives to the USB 3.0 ports on the motherboard? I am on 0507 and my drives wont work with these ports, I've tried updating the Asmedia USB 3.0 drivers and even reverting them to no avail. I'd like to confirm USB 3.0 functionality before trying the new BIOS. Thanks.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Does anyone running the new BIOS still have issues connecting external drives to the USB 3.0 ports on the motherboard? I am on 0507 and my drives wont work with these ports, I've tried updating the Asmedia USB 3.0 drivers and even reverting them to no avail. I'd like to confirm USB 3.0 functionality before trying the new BIOS. Thanks.


Not tried it yet, but someone did mention about switching the charger off in the Bios as maybe a quick fix!!









AJ.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> Hey guys, anyone elses chipset block(stock) get mega hot?? Mine feels very hot too the touch , i'd say twice as hot as the vrm's
> 
> Running at [email protected]
> Vtt 1.1v sa 1.05v
> 
> Its really making me consider one of EK's monoblocks.


I have either dual or tri 780TI's installed in mine, 60C+ temps are normal for me.


----------



## Ajay57

Hey Cad,

Have you found the time to check out the NEW BIOS yet my good friend???

Yeah i know your always busy with reviews and stuff just thought i ask for your 10c!!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I have either dual or tri 780TI's installed in mine, 60C+ temps are normal for me.


Will I get a problem with the chipset temps with 4x R9 290X and 3930K overclocked on water? It is not that much of a hassle to get the motherboard-block, I would like to install it before I throw everything else inside though, it will spare me some time and hassle.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Will I get a problem with the chipset temps with 4x R9 290X and 3930K overclocked on water? It is not that much of a hassle to get the motherboard-block, I would like to install it before I throw everything else inside though, it will spare me some time and hassle.


Honestly, with 4 VGAs, yeah, I'd be watercooling the whole rig. I'm in the process of gathering cash and parts to put mine under water, going to go with the EK uni-block myself.


----------



## maxxx.ph

Folks, a little question. Does having a block covering most of the motherboard help in reducing heat or its just for the looks? I saw this Bitspower block so I asked this question. TIA!


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

It´s for the look and btw the EK Block looks way better then the bitspower one !









http://www.ekwb.com/news/489/19/EK-introduces-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-AIO-water-cooling-solution/


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Hey Cad,
> 
> Have you found the time to check out the NEW BIOS yet my good friend???
> 
> Yeah i know your always busy with reviews and stuff just thought i ask for your 10c!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


Actually, I run 0208 without any issues, so haven't seen any need to upgrade since I downgraded several weeks ago.. I can check it out if there's something specific you're looking for, other than 8 GB DIMM testing...I've only kept 2GB PSC (bench scoring), 4GB Samsung(24/7), and 4 GB MFR sticks(IMC testing).

My second rig is running the 0603 beta.


----------



## Shadowarez

Anyone have a issue were using a USB 3 drive to transfer data to then ejecting the drive when 45 gigs of data was written to it finding it way to hot to handle. Would that be a surge or faulty internal Usb 3 header?


----------



## [email protected]

Transferring that amount of data can heat up some controllers so it's likely just that.

The 5V USB supply on the ROG boards is supplied by LDO regs - so not much chance of voltage issues unless they are attached to a bad PSU. Even then, the high side input won't be anywhere near the regulator drop out voltage and even if for some reason it was spiking "high" most LDOs support well in excess of 12V at their input. If there were any issues with the 12V DC rail (which is the supply for the regs) you'd know about it from more than just USB..


----------



## Shadowarez

Ahh ok im using that already discontinued evga 1500watt psu I made order by time I actually got it they discontinued it lol. Nothing else seems to heat up. Everything else onboard working just fine. Thanks raja for speedy reply.


----------



## Arm3nian

Speaking of psus, when I switch the power off on my g2 1300 from the back, on the next boot it turns on, then off in a second, then turns on again and works fine. Is this normal?


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah seen that before mine does that if pc doesn't shutdown in time when on ups power.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Speaking of psus, when I switch the power off on my g2 1300 from the back, on the next boot it turns on, then off in a second, then turns on again and works fine. Is this normal?


Normal.

My two past Rive boards and now the Black have done this.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

The best position for a WB CPU is to have the IN/OUT on the left and right or on the top and bottom?

Thanks


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Honestly, with 4 VGAs, yeah, I'd be watercooling the whole rig. I'm in the process of gathering cash and parts to put mine under water, going to go with the EK uni-block myself.


Hey, I was actually thinking of not doing the motherboard-block, but if it is needed I will do it, which block should I use? Monoblock or the "standard" chipset and mosfet? (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/intel-x79/ek-fb-asus-r4be-monoblock-acetal-nickel.html or http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/intel-x79/ek-fb-kit-asus-r4be-acetal-nickel.html?)

RAM-cooling is waste, right?

The rest of the cooling system will be:
Koolance RP-452X2 (in one loop)
2x Swiftech MCP655
4x EK-FC R9 290X Acetal+Nickel with black backplates
EK-Supremacy Acetal+Nickel
2x EK-XTX240
2x AC Monsta 480
EK-XTX120
EK-XT120
EK-ZMT Matte Black 3/8"-5/8" with 2x Koolance QD3 quick disconnects
Destilled water

I have 1680 mm area of radiators, which will be setup in push/pull with 700 rpm fans.

Will try to overclock the CPU to 4,5 Ghz and the GPU's to 1100/1600, with 2x EVGA G2 1300W.


----------



## cadaveca

I don't think either way is going to give a significant difference to temps, really, just make tubing routing easier to manage.

ram cooling can be useful if ya got real high-end DIMMs, as they tend to run hot, but otherwise, yeah, rather pointless.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I don't think either way is going to give a significant difference to temps, really, just make tubing routing easier to manage.
> 
> ram cooling can be useful if ya got real high-end DIMMs, as they tend to run hot, but otherwise, yeah, rather pointless.


I will try to get my Crucial ram to work, if that do not work it will be 4 x8GB Kingston 2400Mhz. Will I need it for the Kingston-ram?

Yeah, I see what it will be.


----------



## cadaveca

2400's should be fine without cooling. It's the kits over 2400 that come with fans that might need water. Might. Usually just decent airflow over them (like 30 CFM) is more than adequate.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 2400's should be fine without cooling. It's the kits over 2400 that come with fans that might need water. Might. Usually just decent airflow over them (like 30 CFM) is more than adequate.


Okay, that was a relief, I am really blowing a hole in my wallet with the water cooling for this build and the parts for that mather. It will kick butt at 4K gaming though!


----------



## cadaveca

I feel ya on the watercooling killing the budget. Yet with tri- quad-SLI'd cards, and the card VRMs sitting directly in front of PCH cooler, you really do need to have water in such builds. I fought as hard as I could making that expense, but I had to give up in the end.


----------



## Ajay57

Or to help out put a Chiiler in line with the RADS!!

Chiller-CPU-GPU's-Rads- Pump!!



Just a 10cents idea would help if your in a HOT CLIMATE!!
















AJ.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I feel ya on the watercooling killing the budget. Yet with tri- quad-SLI'd cards, and the card VRMs sitting directly in front of PCH cooler, you really do need to have water in such builds. I fought as hard as I could making that expense, but I had to give up in the end.


Don't fight it -- give in the dark side, Luke.









The good news is most of the priciest parts of your loop can be used again in future builds (i.e. pump, radiators, fittings, etc), unlike your pc components which have a very limited useful life. Watercooling is expensive, but think of your first loop as an investment in future builds -- next time all you'll have to buy is new blocks and tubing.


----------



## cadaveca

LoL. I wish this was my first loop.

Here's some old-school water.







ASUS A7V8X-MX. Yeah, Socket A, from back when Koolance and Danger Den were the only real options.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I feel ya on the watercooling killing the budget. Yet with tri- quad-SLI'd cards, and the card VRMs sitting directly in front of PCH cooler, you really do need to have water in such builds. I fought as hard as I could making that expense, but I had to give up in the end.


I am in no way debating on going with water cooling, water cooling is a must!

I just did not think it was necessary with motherboard-cooling, but I guess I will do it, I will buy the monoblock though to save a few bucks and I will skip the RAM-cooling until further notice, I may buy another EK-RAM Monarch X4 and put on a Acetal top later (next paycheck) and throw it all together again.

Anyway, I need to get the RIVBE up and running first.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Or to help out put a Chiiler in line with the RADS!!
> 
> Chiller-CPU-GPU's-Rads- Pump!!
> 
> 
> 
> Just a 10cents idea would help if your in a HOT CLIMATE!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


I live in Norway, not exactly hot climate. With proper water cooling it is no problem.


----------



## Ajay57

Just thinking about our USA Cousins it can be 80c in the shade lol!!









As for Norway i would be fixing a RAD outside to benefit from the cold climate too!









My close friend in Canada has a RAD hanging from his Window, works great in the Cold Winters - 25c!!









Good Luck on the WC!

AJ.


----------



## tistou77

With my Corsair Platinum 2666 C10, no need fan or WC and that's ok


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> With my Corsair Platinum 2666 C10, no need fan or WC and that's ok


Mine either, but they do get pretty toasty!

They are meant to run with a fan though, first sets didn't come with one, later sets did. The fans are more meant for those under water with minimal or no case airflow.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Just thinking about our USA Cousins it can be 80c in the shade lol!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for Norway i would be fixing a RAD outside to benefit from the cold climate too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My close friend in Canada has a RAD hanging from his Window, works great in the Cold Winters - 25c!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good Luck on the WC!
> 
> AJ.


Yes, radiators outside or in an unventilated basement would have been gold (mostly in the winter though). I do not have that option though, I have the option of having the hole computer in an unventilated basement, but in the winter it is 6-7C there so no go for me. Jacket, gloves and cap when gaming? Haha, yes that would have been something.

This is not my first water cooled pc, but thank you anyways.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Not tried it yet, but someone did mention about switching the charger off in the Bios as maybe a quick fix!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Not tried it yet, but someone did mention about switching the charger off in the Bios as maybe a quick fix!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


No the "Rapid Charging" setting found in AI Suite 3 is off, the problem is that none of the USB 3.0 ports work and I am on the latest Asmedia USB 3.0 driver. I am tempted to try the newer 0604 BIOS; considering I have never updated the BIOS and am new to the motherboard, how do I go about putting the new BIOS on the secondary BIOS?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Speaking of psus, when I switch the power off on my g2 1300 from the back, on the next boot it turns on, then off in a second, then turns on again and works fine. Is this normal?


Yeah that is normal, why are you powering down the PSU?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Is there anyone here using the EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock for the RIVBE? In that case how is the temperatures for the CPU, Mosfet and Chipset?

Is it easy to install? I looked at the installation manual on ekwb.com (found here: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109821183.pdf) and it looks like an fairly okay operation.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Or to help out put a Chiiler in line with the RADS!!
> 
> Chiller-CPU-GPU's-Rads- Pump!!
> 
> 
> 
> Just a 10cents idea would help if your in a HOT CLIMATE!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


I was under the impression that its a bad idea to use rads with a chiller as they would actually warm the water up?? Better to have a big insulated res and short insulated pipe runs.


----------



## cadaveca

Use rads to pull down to ambient, chiller after rads, before CPU, to pull coolant below ambient.

You can do the same by putting a bucket of ice inline. Not a big deal to bust that myth right open.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Speaking of psus, when I switch the power off on my g2 1300 from the back, on the next boot it turns on, then off in a second, then turns on again and works fine. Is this normal?


normal. Raja explained this cycling as Training.. also said that it can be as stressful on the hardware as some stress tests!








A/C power cycles are not what I always thought...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> I was under the impression that its a bad idea to use rads with a chiller as they would actually warm the water up?? Better to have a big insulated res and short insulated pipe runs.


sorry for the 2-in-a row posts. But I've been using this same chiller for some time now - works great! just put it in the loop after teh rads, and when the coolant temp drops below your air temp shut down your fans (I use a controller to disable the fans when "air in temp *>* air out temp". Witrh the 1/13HP cooler I can get the coolant down to 9C and keep it below 20C after HEAVY use.



now w/ tri sli...


----------



## Ajay57

I never get tired of looking at that picture JPM my good friend, and thanks for saying about the Fans, that's a new one for me!!
















Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you sure it is in the right slot ?


Very certain, I checked the physical wiring of all the x16 slots, only the two with the cards are fully wired for x16. So there is no other way to have or assembled.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> normal. Raja explained this cycling as Training.. also said that it can be as stressful on the hardware as some stress tests!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A/C power cycles are not what I always thought...


Is the motherboard doing it or psu? I thought it was just some protection built into the psu. Didn't see this before with my ax1200, had a different motherboard though.

I turn it off from the back because the rog light is annoying in a dark room when I sleep lol. Plus moving the mouse turns the computer on, I searched the bios for a minute but couldn't find the option to turn that off. I've always turned my computer off in general though. The fans are way too annoying if it's in the same room as your bed. Plus it dumps heat into the room for no reason.


----------



## nickolp1974

Nice looking setup you have there Jpmboy, and thanks for the clarification


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> I was under the impression that its a bad idea to use rads with a chiller as they would actually warm the water up?? Better to have a big insulated res and short insulated pipe runs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for the 2-in-a row posts. But I've been using this same chiller for some time now - works great! just put it in the loop after teh rads, and when the coolant temp drops below your air temp shut down your fans (I use a controller to disable the fans when "air in temp < air out temp". Witrh the 1/13HP cooler I can get the coolant down to 9C and keep it below 20C after HEAVY use.
> 
> 
> 
> now w/ tri sli...
Click to expand...


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Is the motherboard doing it or psu? I thought it was just some protection built into the psu. Didn't see this before with my ax1200, had a different motherboard though.
> 
> I turn it off from the back because the rog light is annoying in a dark room when I sleep lol. Plus moving the mouse turns the computer on, I searched the bios for a minute but couldn't find the option to turn that off. I've always turned my computer off in general though. The fans are way too annoying if it's in the same room as your bed. Plus it dumps heat into the room for no reason.


It's the motherboard, the R4E does the same. Raja explain why a while ago somewhere.
There is an option to turn off the rog light in the bios, same thing for mouse/keyboard wake up.


----------



## IT Diva

We have power outages here in the Caribbean at least once every 2 weeks or so, often while I'm at work and the computer is off.

When I get home and boot up, I can tell the power has been off by the double boot sequence, even before I see the clocks flashing.

It seems to be a normal thing for all my Asus mobos, regardless of age or which brand of PSU.

Seems that the 5V standby power from the PSU is used to do more than power the "start button" logic for sure.

Darlene


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Those water chillers seems to be out of the question for me, maybe if I find some local store that got one at a good price, if not there is no go for me.

I do not really have the space for the chiller either, nice system Jpmboy, a little to "spread around" for my taste, but I am sure it works great.

While we are on the subject, how do you guys connect the fans mounted outside the case to the motherboard headers? You just use extentions and PWM-controllers?


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It's the motherboard, the R4E does the same. Raja explain why a while ago somewhere.
> There is an option to turn off the rog light in the bios, same thing for mouse/keyboard wake up.


I know you can turn it off but I want it on when the computer is on. I don't think you can set it to turn off during standby?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We have power outages here in the Caribbean at least once every 2 weeks or so, often while I'm at work and the computer is off.
> 
> When I get home and boot up, I can tell the power has been off by the double boot sequence, even before I see the clocks flashing.
> 
> It seems to be a normal thing for all my Asus mobos, regardless of age or which brand of PSU.
> 
> Seems that the 5V standby power from the PSU is used to do more than power the "start button" logic for sure.
> 
> Darlene


I had a z77 ws asus board that never did the double boot. I had an ax1200 back then and turned that off also because it produced coil whine when in standby. High frequencies became more clear as ambient noise dropped during the night and it was too annoying.

I don't think it's the motherboard because it turns off and on even without the motherboard, I remember this because it was a PITA when filling my loop and cycling the pump.

When I shutdown, and try and turn it back on, while still off from the back switch, it trys to boot twice and I hear relays clicking. It also actually does start the system up when turned OFF from the back because the fans ramp up and the lights turn on. What was also a pain was the fact that it takes so long for the psu to actually stop providing power after you disconnect it. This was evident when only my pump was connected and the pump would still run for 3 seconds AFTER I pulled the plug... so you risk running out of water in the reservoir even at the lowest pump setting. Could be from powering such a low load but that just means theres no bleeder resistor on the caps or something...

Bad circuitry design? Faulty Unit? Normal? Not sure. The components in the g2 1300 are of high quality, but that doesn't seem to be everything. Could also explain random shutdowns? I didn't have one for like 3 months, then it went out from no where, wasn't even stressing the system. Doubt it was a power failure as everything else was still working...


----------



## Shadowarez

When I built my New Rig I made sure to get a nice pure Sinewave ups as the power were im at is really bad. Alot of voltage spikes. And just plain dirty power. Surprisingly my rig at full bore with router,cable modem only draws about 407 watts my crappy 55" tv on other hand draws nearly 510 watts alone.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> *Nice looking setup* you have there Jpmboy, and thanks for the clarification


lol - but thanks!

it's more spreadout than the picture shows... but it is a bench rig. Other one is in a TJ09 case.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kpoeticg

The closeup with the bench and chiller was definitely the money shot =)

How much did that chiller cost you? And is it reasonable with electricity? I've always been interested in chillers but never spent much time researching the subject


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Those water chillers seems to be out of the question for me, maybe if I find some local store that got one at a good price, if not there is no go for me.
> 
> I do not really have the space for the chiller either, nice system Jpmboy, a little to "spread around" for my taste, but I am sure it works great.
> 
> *While we are on the subject, how do you guys connect the fans mounted outside the case to the motherboard headers? You just use extentions and PWM-controllers?*


Try looking for this!!

1,http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CB-017-NX

OR you can have 2 into 1 or 3 into 1 as well!!

2, http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CM-098-BX

The thing you have to careful with is that, the power output of a FAN HEADER will only support 3 FANS!! More than this you can burn out or damage the FAN HEADERS on a Motherboard!









I hope this can help you with your project,









AJ.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> Try looking for this!!
> 
> 1,http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CB-017-NX
> 
> OR you can have 2 into 1 or 3 into 1 as well!!
> 
> 2, http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CM-098-BX
> 
> The thing you have to careful with is that, the power output of a FAN HEADER will only support 3 FANS!! More than this you can burn out or damage the FAN HEADERS on a Motherboard!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this can help you with your project,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


Generally true for 3 pin voltage controlled fans. Most mobo headers these days, icl the RIVBE, are rated for 1 amp = 12 watts so might vary a bit depending on the fans used.

If you are talking about controlling 4 pin PWM fans though, you don't want to use a splitter cable like that and you are not so limited on how many fans you can run from a header. If you use a splitter like this you can have up to 8 PWM fans controlled from a single PWM header ***, since it powers the fans via a 12v from the PSU and only uses the PWM signal and tach from the mobo. Keep in mind that only the CPU_FAN is a PWM header on most mobos. Others are usually voltage controlled even if they are 4 pin headers. On the RIVBE (and many other ASUS boards) the CPU_OPT is a mirror of the CPU_FAN, and is also a PWM header. All the other CHA and OPT headers are voltage controlled.

*** Also worth mentioning is the fact that Corsair's PWM fans have issues where control of more than four or so of them from a single PWM header is buggy. They tend to revert to full speed. Corsair's seem to be the only fans that implemented PWM the way they did. Probably best to avoid Corsair fans if you are wanting to take advantage of running multiples from a single PWM header.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> Try looking for this!!
> 
> 1,http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CB-017-NX
> 
> OR you can have 2 into 1 or 3 into 1 as well!!
> 
> 2, http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CM-098-BX
> 
> The thing you have to careful with is that, the power output of a FAN HEADER will only support 3 FANS!! More than this you can burn out or damage the FAN HEADERS on a Motherboard!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this can help you with your project,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ.


Ah, okay, I see. That was kind of what I thought was done too.

I was thinking of using 4x Swiftech PWM-controller (with 8x 3-pin fan headers) and place them in serial so I could use 28 fans of off one fan header on the motherboard. The only problem I see is that the voltage will be too low to run all those fans (at least at the rpm I want), I will need extension cables anyways, but I guess I will find one way or another to get it to work. There is also more than one fan header on the RIVBE, so I guess I will manage even if I have to use more than one fan header.

The Swiftech PWM-controller is supposed to be used on the CPU_FAN header on the motherboard, and it support eight fans (it has external power though through a SATA-contact), so I guess with the "external" power it will not burn/damage the fan headers on the motherboard (I do not know this, but I guess it is like that). I had 1x PWM-controller on CPU_FAN and 1x PWM-controller on the CPU_OPT on my Asus Maximus VI Gene and it worked great. The only "problem" is that all fans needs to be the same or else they will operate at different rpm/speeds. Another note, the Corsair SP120 will not work with those Swiftech PWM-controllers, I tried.

I also came across this: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5503/nzxt-grid-10-port-fan-hub-review/index.html and wondered if that maybe work for my "problems".


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Ah, okay, I see. That was kind of what I thought was done too.
> 
> I was thinking of using 4x Swiftech PWM-controller (with 8x 3-pin fan headers) and place them in serial so I could use 28 fans of off one fan header on the motherboard. The only problem I see is that the voltage will be too low to run all those fans (at least at the rpm I want), I will need extension cables anyways, but I guess I will find one way or another to get it to work. There is also more than one fan header on the RIVBE, so I guess I will manage even if I have to use more than one fan header.
> 
> The Swiftech PWM-controller is supposed to be used on the CPU_FAN header on the motherboard, and it support eight fans (it has external power though through a SATA-contact), so I guess with the "external" power it will not burn/damage the fan headers on the motherboard (I do not know this, but I guess it is like that). I had 1x PWM-controller on CPU_FAN and 1x PWM-controller on the CPU_OPT on my Asus Maximus VI Gene and it worked great. The only "problem" is that all fans needs to be the same or else they will operate at different rpm/speeds. Another note, the Corsair SP120 will not work with those Swiftech PWM-controllers, I tried.
> 
> I also came across this: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5503/nzxt-grid-10-port-fan-hub-review/index.html and wondered if that maybe work for my "problems".


The NZXT Grid is a 10 port fan hub for 3-pin voltage controlled fans. It's not for 4 pin PWM fans.

if you want to control 28 PWM fans I don't think that's a good idea or even possible without risking damage to a mobo. You might want to look at getting an Aquaero 6. It's the only PWM fan controller that I know of capable of handling that many fans.


----------



## Ajay57

Yeah that many Fans i see a major problem, if you try to run that off 1 Header let alone more than 1 , but what you need is a proper Fan controller with extra power supplied via a Molex etc!!

Myself here i have 11 FANS running off 4 FAN HEADERS, plus Dual WC PUMPS off the CPU controller as well, so like i said before any Fans should not be more than 3 per header!!

Yes PWM is slightly different, but i would still feel better to be safe than sorry when you smell something BURNING IN YOUR PC CASE!!!









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The closeup with the bench and chiller was definitely the money shot =)
> 
> How much did that chiller cost you? And is it reasonable with electricity? I've always been interested in chillers but never spent much time researching the subject


from AquaEuro, I think this model aquarium chiller was ~$250. I went with this brand since all coolant contact surfaces are good (nalgene plastic and titanium). Power wise... I really don't know, It's a good question, I'll put a killawatt meter on it today and see.









edit - I think that swiftech fan controller does not draw power from the MB... only sends a tach signal - right? The AQ 6 is the way to go... pricey but really well made.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Is the motherboard doing it or psu? I thought it was just some protection built into the psu. Didn't see this before with my ax1200, had a different motherboard though.
> 
> I turn it off from the back because the rog light is annoying in a dark room when I sleep lol. *Plus moving the mouse turns the computer on*, I searched the bios for a minute but couldn't find the option to turn that off. I've always turned my computer off in general though. The fans are way too annoying if it's in the same room as your bed. Plus it dumps heat into the room for no reason.


In bios you can disable ROG EFFECTS - should turn off the mb lights. [bold] if so, your pc is not off, but on standby or hibernate - disable wake from USB/mouse


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The NZXT Grid is a 10 port fan hub for 3-pin voltage controlled fans. It's not for 4 pin PWM fans.
> 
> if you want to control 28 PWM fans I don't think that's a good idea or even possible without risking damage to a mobo. You might want to look at getting an Aquaero 6. It's the only PWM fan controller that I know of capable of handling that many fans.


I do not use 4-pin PWM fans, I use 3-pin (non PWM).

I will probably do 4x Swiftech PWM splitters on four different headers to start with, or pin down on the fans. In the first place I will just use 14 fans so I will figure it out when I have the board up and running.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> Yeah that many Fans i see a major problem, if you try to run that off 1 Header let alone more than 1 , but what you need is a proper Fan controller with extra power supplied via a Molex etc!!
> 
> Myself here i have 11 FANS running off 4 FAN HEADERS, plus Dual WC PUMPS off the CPU controller as well, so like i said before any Fans should not be more than 3 per header!!
> 
> Yes PWM is slightly different, but i would still feel better to be safe than sorry when you smell something BURNING IN YOUR PC CASE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


I do not appreciate the large letters and many numbers of exclamation markers, I do not take that in the friendly tone!


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I do not use 4-pin PWM fans, I use 3-pin (non PWM).
> 
> I will probably do 4x Swiftech PWM splitters on four different headers to start with, or pin down on the fans. In the first place I will just use 14 fans so I will figure it out when I have the board up and running.
> I do not appreciate the large letters and many numbers of exclamation markers, I do not take that in the friendly tone!


Sorry i will try to do better next time around, just trying to help you and just concerned that i have seen burnt Fan headers in the past.

I hope you can understand and appreciate what i am saying.









Thank You regards,









AJ.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> In bios you can disable ROG EFFECTS - should turn off the mb lights. [bold] if so, your pc is not off, but on standby or hibernate - disable wake from USB/mouse


Sorry for the double post just only found this.



Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I do not use 4-pin PWM fans, I use 3-pin (non PWM).
> 
> I will probably do 4x Swiftech PWM splitters on four different headers to start with, or pin down on the fans. In the first place I will just use 14 fans so I will figure it out when I have the board up and running.


Sorry. You keep mentioning PWM splitters so I assumed you have PWM fans.

If you do not have 4 pin PWM fans then you do not want to use a PWM splitter. It will only make all your fans go full speed 100% as they will be getting all their power from the PSU since they do not use the 4th PWM signal wire which is what tells PWM fans what speed to run at. PWM fans use a full 12v all the time and the PWM signal is what controls the speed.

Trying to run 14 3-pin voltage controlled fans off of mobo headers is a bad idea. You need a fan controller.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sorry. You keep mentioning PWM splitters so I assumed you have PWM fans.
> 
> If you do not have 4 pin PWM fans then you do not want to use a PWM splitter. It will only make all your fans go full speed 100% as they will be getting all their power from the PSU since they do not use the 4th PWM signal wire which is what tells PWM fans what speed to run at. PWM fans use a full 12v all the time and the PWM signal is what controls the speed.
> 
> Trying to run 14 3-pin voltage controlled fans off of mobo headers is a bad idea. You need a fan controller.


I am a little bad expressing myself in English, my bad.

I use Phobya G-Silent 700 rpm fans, you do not hear them at full speed and I will just be using them. I have some NF-F12s which is PWM I think, so I plugged those into the "master fan" so all the other fans would work like "slaves" for that one fan. Same speed. The NF-F12 was running 300-600 rpm with the PWM-splitters, same with the 700 rpm fans. Quite too.

I will be running just seven fans on the PWM splitter and use two of them (one on the CPU_FAN header and one on the CPU_OPT, I do not need splitters for any of those fans because they are running at such low rpm. The PWM-splitter and a fan-controller, wont those two work alike?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I am a little bad expressing myself in English, my bad.
> 
> I use Phobya G-Silent 700 rpm fans, you do not hear them at full speed and I will just be using them. I have some NF-F12s which is PWM I think, so I plugged those into the "master fan" so all the other fans would work like "slaves" for that one fan. Same speed. The NF-F12 was running 300-600 rpm with the PWM-splitters, same with the 700 rpm fans. Quite too.
> 
> I will be running just seven fans on the PWM splitter and use two of them (one on the CPU_FAN header and one on the CPU_OPT, I do not need splitters for any of those fans because they are running at such low rpm. The PWM-splitter and a fan-controller, wont those two work alike?


At the risk of repeating myself. You do not want to use a PWM splitter like the Swiftech one for 3 pin fans. They will only work correctly with 4 pin PWM fans. Your 3 pin fans will only run at 100%. PWM splitters have the voltage and ground wires to all fans connected to them going to the PSU. Only the rpm and PWM signal wires go to the motherboard header. The voltage to PWM fans is always a full 12v. The 4th wire, the PWM signal wire from the motherboard header, is what tells 4 pin PWM fans what speed to run at. Your 3 pin fans do not / can not use the PWM signal wire. If you plug 3-pin fans into a PWM splitter they will run at 100% only.


^ See the SATA connecter goes to the PSU for 12V and ground, and only two wires go to the motherboard header, the tach (rpm) and PWM signal.

Other PWM splitter cables work exactly the same way. They only work with 4 pin PWM fans and can not be used with voltage controlled (3 pin) fans unless you only want them to run at 100% all the time, in which case you might as well just plug in the PSU cable and not even bother plugging the other connecter to the motherboard header because it won't be doing anything.

If you want to control the speeds to that many voltage controlled (3 pin) fans you should be looking at getting a fan controller.


----------



## chrisnyc75

edit: *deleted*


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The closeup with the bench and chiller was definitely the money shot =)
> 
> How much did that chiller cost you? And is it reasonable with electricity? I've always been interested in chillers but never spent much time researching the subject


I'm surprised.. the 1/13HP cooler is only using ~130W during initial cool down when it is working the hardest.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> At the risk of repeating myself. You do not want to use a PWM splitter like the Swiftech one for 3 pin fans. They will only work correctly with 4 pin PWM fans. Your 3 pin fans will only run at 100%. PWM splitters have the voltage and ground wires to all fans connected to them going to the PSU. Only the rpm and PWM signal wires go to the motherboard header. The voltage to PWM fans is always a full 12v. The 4th wire, the PWM signal wire from the motherboard header, is what tells 4 pin PWM fans what speed to run at. Your 3 pin fans do not / can not use the PWM signal wire. If you plug 3-pin fans into a PWM splitter they will run at 100% only.
> 
> 
> ^ See the SATA connecter goes to the PSU for 12V and ground, and only two wires go to the motherboard header, the tach (rpm) and PWM signal.
> 
> Other PWM splitter cables work exactly the same way. They only work with 4 pin PWM fans and can not be used with voltage controlled (3 pin) fans unless you only want them to run at 100% all the time, in which case you might as well just plug in the PSU cable and not even bother plugging the other connecter to the motherboard header because it won't be doing anything.
> 
> If you want to control the speeds to that many voltage controlled (3 pin) fans you should be looking at getting a fan controller.


The last thing you wrote about using the splitters without the cable connected to the motherboard is the golden solution to my "problem", that would be the very best. Does it work at 100% if it is not connected to the motherboard then? I want the fans running at 100 % all the time. Thanks for the answer, I will try it!


----------



## Kry3er

*Hey, guys!*

Finally finished building my rig. Had a few problems here and there like "00 debug" and a minor leak that happened while the system was shut off. No big deal









Anyway, this is my first post on this forum and i was wondering if i could join your owner's club, since my MoBo is the one in the title.

Never showed my computer to anyone online really so these are the pics i took just for these threads:










Sorry If the photos are bad quality. 'm not exactly a photographer.

Regarding the overclock of my 4960x. I'm running a stable overclock at 4600 MHz and 1.37 Vcore. Just finished a 12 hour prime95 blend test and the temperature results are howering around 57-65 C at full load.

I havent' overclocked my DRAMs yet. I'v noticed that in my DRAM status the D_1 stick seems to be "abnormal". So I've changed the stick around and still the D_1 slot seems to somehow say its behaving abnormally. I don't know what exactly is cusing it. At the moment im getting 12 Gb of ram instead of the full 16.

Apparently its the MoBo, since I've changed the sticks around from slot to slot. Maybe it was a bad idea to change them all together?

Anyone had the same problem?

My system specs are:

Mountain Mods Custom U2-UFO case.
Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
Intel i7 4960x OC'd
16Gb (4x4) of Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400MHz memory
2x Gainward GeForce 780Ti Phantoms
Corsair AX1200 PSU
OCZ Revodrive 3 PCI-E SSD 120Gb
2x Corsair Force GS SSDs 180Gb
WD Caviar HDD 3 Tb
Custom Watercooling dual-loop with all sorts of temperaature sensors, CPU+MoBo mono block, quick-release fittings, etc.
Mayhem's Ice Dragon Nanofluid.

P.S. Just noticed that i've got my smelly feet in one of the photos. Sorry about that.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> The last thing you wrote about using the splitters without the cable connected to the motherboard is the golden solution to my "problem", that would be the very best. Does it work at 100% if it is not connected to the motherboard then? I want the fans running at 100 % all the time. Thanks for the answer, I will try it!


If that's the case you might want to use something like this to accomplish the same thing.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32847
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14665/ele-991/4-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_8xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-4-83.html?tl=c121s424b214

No sense in spending more on something made for PWM fans when what you want is a splitter for 3 pin fans.


----------



## gow3

The Problem:-

Finally got my Rampage IV BE. Loving it. Had a RIVE before this and can already see a lot of differences. A strange problem I encountered was that D1 and D2 Ram Slots would not accept Ram. This would sometimes result in Blue screens relating to Memory Management. The odd thing is, I went into my bios and navigated to "DIMM Post" and it reads all 8 of my dimms but windows just detects 24 gb out of 32 gb. (Each dimm is 4 gb). I have previously made us of this ram on my RIVE and all was fine.

I have tried:-

1. Using MemOK! button. ( To no avail.)
2. Using XMP profile. (To no avail.)
3. The CPU's pins have been checked and none of them were bent. (THANK GOD.)
4. I have reseated rams multiple times.
5. I have also interchanged rams to check for any ram errors.


----------



## Kry3er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gow3*
> 
> The Problem:-
> 
> Finally got my Rampage IV BE. Loving it. Had a RIVE before this and can already see a lot of differences. A strange problem I encountered was that D1 and D2 Ram Slots would not accept Ram. This would sometimes result in Blue screens relating to Memory Management. The odd thing is, I went into my bios and navigated to "DIMM Post" and it reads all 8 of my dimms but windows just detects 24 gb out of 32 gb. (Each dimm is 4 gb). I have previously made us of this ram on my RIVE and all was fine.
> 
> I have tried:-
> 
> 1. Using MemOK! button. ( To no avail.)
> 2. Using XMP profile. (To no avail.)
> 3. The CPU's pins have been checked and none of them were bent. (THANK GOD.)
> 4. I have reseated rams multiple times.
> 5. I have also interchanged rams to check for any ram errors.


I feel you man. Read my post, I've got somewhat similar problem. My D_1 slot sees the hardware installed. But somehow windows doesn't see the damn stick and gives me 12 Gb instead of 16 Gb.
If you go to BIOS and check the very last tab, i think. It has an option to see DRAM status. Mine states that D_1 slot is abnormal. I have no idea what is causing.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> I feel you man. Read my post, I've got somewhat similar problem. My D_1 slot sees the hardware installed. But somehow windows doesn't see the damn stick and gives me 12 Gb instead of 16 Gb.
> If you go to BIOS and check the very last tab, i think. It has an option to see DRAM status. Mine states that D_1 slot is abnormal. I have no idea what is causing.


For you, clean the DIMM fingers of the stick that's in the "abnormal" slot using an eraser, and re-insert the ram. If it is listed as abnormal, then either the stick or the slot itself is usually the problem. It's usually the stick though, in my experience. This is not the only board that'll do that, unfortunately. AT least with ASUS' GPU/DIMM post, you have an indicator as to where the problem might be.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> *Hey, guys!*
> 
> Finally finished building my rig.


Beautiful! Nice job, dude.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If that's the case you might want to use something like this to accomplish the same thing.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32847
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14665/ele-991/4-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_8xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-4-83.html?tl=c121s424b214
> 
> No sense in spending more on something made for PWM fans when what you want is a splitter for 3 pin fans.


Yes, that would be really good. I already own 2x Swiftech PWM splitters, so I will use those two at least.


----------



## Kry3er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Beautiful! Nice job, dude.


Thanks, man!







I wish i've had enough patience to braid those ugly on/off switch cables. but its just not worth it since when i close the top acrylic lid you cant really see it.


----------



## Kry3er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> For you, clean the DIMM fingers of the stick that's in the "abnormal" slot using an eraser, and re-insert the ram. If it is listed as abnormal, then either the stick or the slot itself is usually the problem. It's usually the stick though, in my experience. This is not the only board that'll do that, unfortunately. AT least with ASUS' GPU/DIMM post, you have an indicator as to where the problem might be.


well, damn.. i did follow your advice and cleaned the dimm stick with eraser. When i've installed it, the C_1 slot started to show the abnormal status too, without fixing the D_1. So now i have 8Bb of ram instead of 16. It has to be the MoBo since i've swapped the sticks around multiple times and its still the same slots that are abnormal. Its getting really annoying...


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> well, damn.. i did follow your advice and cleaned the dimm stick with eraser. When i've installed it, the C_1 slot started to show the abnormal status too, without fixing the D_1. So now i have 8Bb of ram instead of 16. It has to be the MoBo since i've swapped the sticks around multiple times and its still the same slots that are abnormal. Its getting really annoying...


LOL. OF all the things to happen...










If you are using two dual-channel sets, however, then this is kind of expected.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> well, damn.. i did follow your advice and cleaned the dimm stick with eraser. When i've installed it, the C_1 slot started to show the abnormal status too, without fixing the D_1. So now i have 8Bb of ram instead of 16. It has to be the MoBo since i've swapped the sticks around multiple times and its still the same slots that are abnormal. Its getting really annoying...


when C1 went abnormal, did D1 go "normal"?


----------



## Kry3er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> LOL. OF all the things to happen...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are using two dual-channel sets, however, then this is kind of expected.


no-no! Its an original set of 4x4Gb corsair dominator Platinum. all 4 sticks are XMP enabled with synched timings of 9-9-11-31.

I've used the same sticks in my previous build with the original rampage IV. No issues were experienced.


----------



## Kry3er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> when C1 went abnormal, did D1 go "normal"?


No it didn't. the D1 slot is still abnormal.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> No it didn't. the D1 slot is still abnormal.


have you tried boosting VCCSA voltage? 2400 MHz divider is pretty tight, not many CPUs can run 2400 properly on this board without at least boost in votlage, IMHO.


----------



## gow3

On mine, I also get the abnormal error. Weird thing is that it worked fine on the rive just like cadaveca's.


----------



## Kry3er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> have you tried boosting VCCSA voltage? 2400 MHz divider is pretty tight, not many CPUs can run 2400 properly on this board without at least boost in votlage, IMHO.


my friend, i'm not running at 2400Mhz. I can't even get these things to run at stock clocks of 1333Mhz. If i change VCSAA to 1.25, mess with the timings and set DRAM voltages to 1.65 i can't even boot into BIOS let alone OS.

I might concider doing a bios flash. but im starting to suspect that it has nothing to do with the software, since i've booted with the second bios at stock clocks on full auto mode. Still states that d1 and c1 are abnormal. altho it does see them in DIMM post.

Checked for bent CPU socket pins. All clear. Reinstalled the cpu 3 times now. Pain in the ass with my CPU watercooling block (as you can suspect from my post with pictures of the rig.

Any other suggestions guys? im starting to run out of options.


----------



## cadaveca

If you've tested everything in another system, then nope, RMA it. maybe Raja can help ya, just 1333 shouldn't be hard at all. ROFL. I run 2666+ daily with no problem.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> my friend, i'm not running at 2400Mhz. I can't even get these things to run at stock clocks of 1333Mhz. If i change VCSAA to 1.25, mess with the timings and set DRAM voltages to 1.65 i can't even boot into BIOS let alone OS.
> 
> I might concider doing a bios flash. but im starting to suspect that it has nothing to do with the software, since i've booted with the second bios at stock clocks on full auto mode. Still states that d1 and c1 are abnormal. altho it does see them in DIMM post.
> 
> Checked for bent CPU socket pins. All clear. Reinstalled the cpu 3 times now. Pain in the ass with my CPU watercooling block (as you can suspect from my post with pictures of the rig.
> 
> Any other suggestions guys? im starting to run out of options.


Sorry if this is a repeat question, but if you are using 8x4GB sticks, drop to 4x4GB in the DIMM1 slots.... c1 and d1 still dead?

I had that "abnormal" thing a few times.. each was either not fully in the slot, or "FOD" in the dimm slot. Cleaned with a soft toothbrush and airgun and it worked again.
Unfortunately it sounds like you have tried that aleady and really starting to look like an RMA.


----------



## Kry3er

Well.. the things i did:

Used the MemOK! button during boot. It said that memOK has booted succesfully and sees no problems with the memory compatibility.

AGAIN cleaned all 4 used slots with toothbrushes, erasers, compressed air. There is deffinetely no dust or stains left inside.

Interchanged the sticks arond in every possible combination. Tryed a single stick. Doesnt wirk since the D1 slot is primary and it happens to be that this is one of the abnormal slots.

Checked if the DIMMS are properly installed.

Increased voltages to recommended XMP without actually increasing the MHz. Still no go.

Finaly i've updated the BIOS to the latest 0701. Didn't help what so ever. Only made me reenable my RAID0 setup. (can this be a factor?)

Weird thing is that DIMM post in BIOS sees the sticks just fine. Same with CPUZ which reads all 16Gb of memory.

I really don't want to RMA the board since there is no clear indication that the board is deffinetely the problem.


----------



## Kry3er

one thing i noticed while i was chenging the sticks around is that the D1 and C1 slot DIMMs are 2 times hotter to touch than the normal working sticks in A1 and B1. Could this be an indication of something?


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> Well.. the things i did:
> 
> Used the MemOK! button during boot. It said that memOK has booted succesfully and sees no problems with the memory compatibility.
> 
> AGAIN cleaned all 4 used slots with toothbrushes, erasers, compressed air. There is deffinetely no dust or stains left inside.
> 
> Interchanged the sticks arond in every possible combination. Tryed a single stick. Doesnt wirk since the D1 slot is primary and it happens to be that this is one of the abnormal slots.
> 
> Checked if the DIMMS are properly installed.
> 
> Increased voltages to recommended XMP without actually increasing the MHz. Still no go.
> 
> Finaly i've updated the BIOS to the latest 0701. Didn't help what so ever. Only made me reenable my RAID0 setup. (can this be a factor?)
> 
> Weird thing is that DIMM post in BIOS sees the sticks just fine. Same with CPUZ which reads all 16Gb of memory.
> 
> I really don't want to RMA the board since there is no clear indication that the board is deffinetely the problem.


It could well be a Bad Ram slot or you could try entering the RAM TIMINGS by hand into the Bios section yourself.

The reason is sometimes the Motherboard does not read the XMP Profiles properly, this simple adjustment has helped others in the past.

Next try some ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL a small amount on a cloth to clean the contacts of the RAM STICKS, also try cleaning the ram slots with the same using a cloth very carefully!

*Then can you kindly list the ram you are using, and have you the correct OS to be using 64gb of ram?*

If by chance all these efforts fail then i would have the Mobo sent back for a replacement unit.

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## gow3

I tried cleaning my rams and interchanged them as well, no clue why they aren't working. Just like @Kry3er, they're showing up in the bios dimm post but not in windows. Guess the ram ports are reading them. I have to point out that my ram is G.Skillz 4 gb @ 1600 mhz. They are dual channel kits. I don't see why dual channel may be the problem because I've previously used the same ram in my RIVE and it worked fine.


----------



## Kry3er

Okay, i;ve got some progress here. Apparently my DRAM voltages are screwed. The CHC,CHD voltage is running at 3.0v (!!!) hence the failing memory slots. I've tryed to set it into manual mode and adjusted the voltage to 1.65V.

After multiple reboots the BIOS is still showing the CHC,CHD voltage at 3.0V which is almost twice the normal amount. A have no idea what is causing it. No matter what i change (auto, manual, more, less) it stays at 3.0V.

Anyone had similar issues? this is really strange.


----------



## Kry3er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> It could well be a Bad Ram slot or you could try entering the RAM TIMINGS by hand into the Bios section yourself.
> 
> The reason is sometimes the Motherboard does not read the XMP Profiles properly, this simple adjustment has helped others in the past.
> 
> Next try some ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL a small amount on a cloth to clean the contacts of the RAM STICKS, also try cleaning the ram slots with the same using a cloth very carefully!
> 
> *Then can you kindly list the ram you are using, and have you the correct OS to be using 64gb of ram?*
> 
> If by chance all these efforts fail then i would have the Mobo sent back for a replacement unit.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> AJ.


My RAM is 16 Gb of Corsair dominator Platinum (4x4Gb) with 2400Mhz at 1.65v and timings of 9-11-11-31. Believe me, the sticks are as clean as baby's powdered butt. And they are running fine on my other MoBo. Its the stupid CHC,CHD voltage that ruins everything.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gow3*
> 
> I tried cleaning my rams and interchanged them as well, no clue why they aren't working. Just like @Kry3er, they're showing up in the bios dimm post but not in windows. Guess the ram ports are reading them. I have to point out that my ram is G.Skillz 4 gb @ 1600 mhz. They are dual channel kits. I don't see why dual channel may be the problem because I've previously used the same ram in my RIVE and it worked fine.


Well some members have found out that this Mobo is funny as to what ram you can use, to get the best out of the motherboard a set of 4 x 4 is best, ie 4 x 2gb = 8GB or 4 x 4gb = 16GB etc.

Best place to look is the QVL List in the handbook that is where i got my ram from and it works perfectly for me here its in my SIG!

This is mine.



You can check your RAM here!



This where you can find your XMP TIMINGS to load into the Bios by hand!



I hope this can help you and anyone else looking in.

Regards,

AJ


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> Okay, i;ve got some progress here. Apparently my DRAM voltages are screwed. The CHC,CHD voltage is running at 3.0v (!!!) hence the failing memory slots. I've tryed to set it into manual mode and adjusted the voltage to 1.65V.
> 
> After multiple reboots the BIOS is still showing the CHC,CHD voltage at 3.0V which is almost twice the normal amount. A have no idea what is causing it. No matter what i change (auto, manual, more, less) it stays at 3.0V.
> 
> Anyone had similar issues? this is really strange.


That sounds to be a 100% fault i would never run my ram above 1.70v for longer than needed, let alone 3.0 Volts, you need to chat to a vendor who sold you this Mobo about a possible exchange.

I would not continue to run @ that Voltage else something is going to blow up or give out soon.

For anymore answers i would wait, but in the meantime take those 2 sticks out and try to run without if its at all possible.

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

To confirm, measure the vdram with a multimeter from the mobo directly. 1.33V will kill the ram sticks... and maybe the cpu Imc.

Boot with one stick in a good slot, and re flash the bios. Still reporting 1.3V? And measurement confirms?


----------



## Ajay57

Hey JPM,

You mean 3.0 Volts yeah!!!









AJ.


----------



## Jpmboy

Yes. 3V! Not a number I'm use to in this context


----------



## eduncan911

So, a question about the bluetooth radio...

Has anyone paired it with a Jambox? Or their phone?

I know the R4E I had worked fine with a phone.

Windows 8.1 Pro, when trying to "Add bluetooth device", it just scans and never finds anything... No Jambox, no phone, no apple bluetooth keyboard, etc.

Latest bluetooth drivers (tried the built-in MS drivers as well), running the original first-release BIOS (haven't felt like taking the time to frack with the OC settings all over again).

Do I need to connect one of the ANTs from the box? (I'm not using WiFi, so I have no ANTs connected)

FIXED: You need to connect the WiFi ANT to use Bluetooth.

-E


----------



## Kry3er

Okay, RMAing it tommorow.

What a horrible experience with this MoBo. I guess im very unlucky.


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, RMAing it tommorow.
> 
> *What a horrible experience with this MoBo. I guess im very unlucky.*


We are all sorry to hear about that, hope you can quickly turn this around and get another replacement soon.

The majority of these Motherboards have been OK, yes like a fine sports car they need some fine tuning to get them to work.
 








But as i have found out myself here, once you have done this they are really good and reliable to work with, its just you have a bad one there!

Regards,

AJ.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> To confirm, measure the vdram with a multimeter from the mobo directly. 1.3V will kill the ram sticks... and maybe the cup Imc.
> 
> Boot with one stick in a good slot, and re flash the bios. Still reporting 1.3V? And measurement confirms?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Yes. 3V! Not a number I'm use to in this context


lol i was like...1.3v will kill it? uh oh...


----------



## Jpmboy

mental block.. just too alien to put 3 dram volts in print.


----------



## szeged

haha yeah







ive made that mistake before in the classified/kingpin threads when people ask about 2.0 volts, i usually end up saying sure 1.2v is safe...then re read what they asked and have to quick edit before im responsible for an exploded gpu


----------



## Kry3er

While you guys are having fun in here i'm experiencing a crazy fluctuation in voltages. when i boot the system from a 1-2 hour power off period i get a CHC,CHD voltage of 0.2V (!!!!). then i do a memOK boot and it jumps up to 3.0V. Honestly that is one weird behaviour. And it feels like its stuck on these voltages. i can't change them manualy no matter what i try. +/- buttons, XMP profiles, VCCSA increase or decrease... it just stays at these weird parameters. I bet i'll get a responce from overclockers.co.uk tomorrow that it can't be true and i'm doing something wrong.


----------



## HawkerAnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HawkerAnt*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> New (Australian) member here, greetings to all.
> 
> I have just rebuilt my machine with a Rampage IV Black Edition, but I can't get it to start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping the wise people here can help me out.
> 
> I used to have a liquid-cooled RIVE motherboard + i7-3930K, but due to idiocy / inattention I managed to overheat and fritz the CPU. To avoid a long story, I'll just say that I have had to ditch the motherboard and the liquid cooling (Thermaltake Pro-Water 880i) as well.
> 
> Symptoms:
> 
> Machine powers up. After a minute or so it powers down. Haven't even got to Windoze yet.
> There are no indications via the Q-LED or Q-Code that anything is wrong (they just go dark).
> Doesn't matter what BIOS settings (I had started messing with the settings, but after the problem almost immediately manifested itself I returned the settings to factory default).
> I have observed via the EZmode screen that the CPU is straight away at 72 degrees Celcius. I have not seen it vary from this temperature in the 30-odd seconds I watch it before it decides it wants to power off.
> I need to power the machine off (at the supply) and leave it for some time before it will think about re-booting.
> 
> It seems to me the motherboard is shutting the system down because it thinks it is overheating, but I struggle to believe that it can get so hot immediately after booting.
> 
> Note the i7-3930K is just cooled with the bog standard CPU fan that Intel used to supply with their processors, and it is open case at the moment.
> 
> Sorry, I can't quote the motherboard version or the BIOS version just now (I'm at work), but the motherboard was purchased last month and received this month (June 2014), so I'm assuming both are latest version or close.
> 
> Any ideas? I'm wondering if I have a dodgy motherboard.
> 
> Current configuration (worked out from the purchase history of the online store I buy components from):
> 
> Case: Thermaltake Armor+
> Power Supply: 950W Corsair TX-950 ATX
> Motherboard: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
> Processor: i7-3930K (with standard Intel air-cooling)
> Memory: 4 x 8Gb Kingston HyperX Beast 2400MHz (cooled with 2 x Kingston HyperX fans)
> Video Card: GIGABYTE R9-280X 3GB (standard cooling fans)
> Drives: Samsung EVO 840 256Gb SSD (Windoze + utilities), Samsung EVO 840 512Gb SSD (games), Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD (backup)
> Optical Drive: LG CH08LS10 BLURAY R/W
> Keyboard: Logitech G19
> Mouse: Razer Naga
> Monitor: I forget... 21" 60Hz (Phillips I think)
> UPS: Socomec NeTYS PR 1500Va / 1000W
> 
> Thanks for any replies, Ant.


Various replacement liquid cooling bits arrived last week (Themaltake BigWater 760 PRO, EK R4BE motherboard kit, variety of connectors, already had a Koolance CPU waterblock), put it all together on the weekend and all is now well. I installed one of the 4930K's, just put the machine into XMP mode and it automatically over-clocked to 3.9GHz to run with the 2400Mhz memory.

Lazy testing with Crysis 3 gave me a 70fps screen rate and CPU temp of a bit over 40C, so I'm content to leave it at that, at least until I upgrade my monitor to something better (it doesn't go beyond 1650x1080). That won't be for a while, bank balance needs some TLC.

Cheers and thanks, Ant.


----------



## nickolp1974

So glad they have sorted the oc profiles out with 701, now just takes 1 click to load them, instead of the 2 it took before


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> While you guys are having fun in here i'm experiencing a crazy fluctuation in voltages. when i boot the system from a 1-2 hour power off period i get a CHC,CHD voltage of 0.2V (!!!!). then i do a memOK boot and it jumps up to 3.0V. Honestly that is one weird behaviour. And it feels like its stuck on these voltages. i can't change them manualy no matter what i try. +/- buttons, XMP profiles, VCCSA increase or decrease... it just stays at these weird parameters. I bet i'll get a responce from overclockers.co.uk tomorrow that it can't be true and i'm doing something wrong.


you should send it back. I think you've gone above and beyond in trying to fix the problem.


----------



## Kry3er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> you should send it back. I think you've gone above and beyond in trying to fix the problem.


sending it back today-tomorrow hopefully. Just need to buy a box for it. I was also stupid enough to throw away the original heatsink for the NB and mosfets. Gonna have to send them the MoBo without any heatsinks. Don't know how they're going to react.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> sending it back today-tomorrow hopefully. Just need to buy a box for it. I was also stupid enough to *throw away the original heatsink for the NB and mosfets*. Gonna have to send them the MoBo without any heatsinks. Don't know how they're going to react.


----------



## Kry3er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*


I know, don't judge!







Every time i owned a motherboard and watercooled it i tried to keep the heatsinks just in case. Then years passed and i threw them away coz there was no need for them and they took up space in my "computer component's storage box". Well now i decided to do it straight away and installed a Watercooling block. And now all this happened right at the time when i dont have the heatsink.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> I know, don't judge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every time i owned a motherboard and watercooled it i tried to keep the heatsinks just in case. Then years passed and i threw them away coz there was no need for them and they took up space in my "computer component's storage box". Well now i decided to do it straight away and installed a Watercooling block. And now all this happened right at the time when i dont have the heatsink.


always test as shipped for problems before doing mods to the mobo. My guess is that the RMA will be refused or not under warranty as it has been voided.

sorry. 500$ down the toilet unless you can get your hands on a replacement heatsink, even if just for the time the RMA will take.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Errorist66*
> 
> My guess is that the RMA will be refused or not under warranty as it has been voided.


You need the heatsinks on it, otherwise the board is not in it's original form. That's the way it is with EVGA regarding the warranty, and I have my doubts Asus would be so lenient when EVGA is not regarding that. Hopefully something good happens, but I doubt it sadly. Sorry this happened but when watercooling GPUs/motherboards always keep the original heatsinks and screws, they take up room yes but what's a little room in order to keep that 5 year warranty valid.


----------



## Kry3er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> You need the heatsinks on it, otherwise the board is not in it's original form. That's the way it is with EVGA regarding the warranty, and I have my doubts Asus would be so lenient when EVGA is not regarding that. Hopefully something good happens, but I doubt it sadly. Sorry this happened but when watercooling GPUs/motherboards always keep the original heatsinks and screws, they take up room yes but what's a little room in order to keep that 5 year warranty valid.


Why did it have to happen EXACTLY when i decided to throw the heatsink away.. I've never done it before... I guess that's how life works.


----------



## Mega Man

Shoulda sold them to me. .. then i could sell it back to you


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> Why did it have to happen EXACTLY when i decided to throw the heatsink away.. I've never done it before... I guess that's how life works.


Perhaps some kind member could lend you there unused heat sinks and then you could return them after the rma process? Just an idea


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> I know, don't judge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every time i owned a motherboard and watercooled it i tried to keep the heatsinks just in case. Then years passed and i threw them away coz there was no need for them and they took up space in my "computer component's storage box". Well now i decided to do it straight away and installed a Watercooling block. And now all this happened right at the time when i dont have the heatsink.


no judgement... empathy.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Perhaps some kind member could lend you there unused heat sinks and then you could return them after the rma process? Just an idea


good suggestion! +1


----------



## centvalny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, RMAing it tommorow.
> 
> What a horrible experience with this MoBo. I guess im very unlucky.


Did you try the 2nd. bios?

Max Vdimm with extreme OV enabled is 2.4V. Check ram voltage monitor in bios and on board with meter


----------



## lowsmoke

I have another to add to the list of batches.

-4930k 4.6ghz on all cores, HT enabled at 1.4volt. Stable on prime95, no go for 4.7ghz even with 1.5volts
-Batch nr. 3339B728

The IMC does 2400mhz barely.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> Why did it have to happen EXACTLY when i decided to throw the heatsink away.. I've never done it before... I guess that's how life works.


The heat, and it happens. We learn from our mistakes, I did after my first 3770k delid attempt







.


----------



## abvolt

I agree this board at least for me get past the 4,7 barrier the very best the ram will oc is 2400..


----------



## n0Dice

Hey Peoples,

Need to pick your collective brain.

I've had my Rampage Black for 4 months now and it has run flawlessly. Love this board.

I left my Computer running last night while it downloaded updates from Steam.

Return to it this morning and wake it from sleep mode to find that the wireless adapter will not detect any networks. I live in an apartment building with several networks. My laptop and Media PC are still connecting to my router, so no issues there.

Windows states the adapter is operating correctly.

Here's what I have tried to no avail:


Disable / Enabled Adapter
Reinstalled drivers from Disk
Unistalled drivers and Let Windows install its own.
IPconfig /all states "Media is disconnected"
Removed and re-attached antenna
System Restore
Disabled Windows Firewall
There is no AV Programs installed on my computer (i install them when / if I need them)
All of which have done nothing to solve the problem.

TBH I am stumped. Google has provided no further answer either.

Is there anything I'm missing? Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers


----------



## n0Dice

Ok, so I turned it off and turned the PSU off and left it for a couple of hours.

Turned it back on and everything is working correctly.

Cheers


----------



## eNkrypt

Hey guys,

I was wanting some help with my MOBO the thread is here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1499146/help-asus-rampage-iv-be-intel-4930k-oc-problems

I can't seem to get the think overclocked past 4.3 without MAJOR issues. Could it be a mobo problem?

Also, another quick quesiton - I just installed another GTX 770 and am running them in SLI - Once I installed them I noticed my CPU idle temp increased about 4 degrees celcius - Is this normal?

My ambient temps are 25C and my idle temps are now 34C and were 30-31C without the other GTX 770 in the case. What could be the cause of this?


----------



## Shadowarez

Are the cards blower style or not. If they aren't blowing heat out back then that extra heat is being pumped into your case. And some of these cards heat up to 50+ Celsius.


----------



## eNkrypt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Are the cards blower style or not. If they aren't blowing heat out back then that extra heat is being pumped into your case. And some of these cards heat up to 50+ Celsius.


Yes, here are my cards:




Why would they heat up to 50C when they are not in use?

I can see the CPU temp increasing more when gaming and the cards are in use, but idle not so much.


----------



## Shadowarez

My gtx 680 classys idle at about 35c at idle but anything 3d it auto boostsfrom 385mhz to 1180mhz even using Chrome nvidia's Gpu Boost kicks in. Those cards look like they'd pump the air into case rather then out the back.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anyone have problems with the Kingston Beast 2400 Mhz 4x 4GB (KHX24C11T3K4/16X) with the RIVBE?


----------



## Shadowarez

Technically its not the motherboard fault it would be the imc (Integrated Memory Controller) on your cpu some are apparently weak.


----------



## _REAPER_

I have been out of the loop for awhile gentlemen can anyone tell me what the best bios is now for the 4960X. I am finally getting an RR from the Sandbox and wanted to update everything when I get home. All be it for only 2 weeks but better than nothing right


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I have been out of the loop for awhile gentlemen can anyone tell me what the best bios is now for the 4960X. I am finally getting an RR from the Sandbox and wanted to update everything when I get home. All be it for only 2 weeks but better than nothing right


I'm on 0602 and it works fine bro. the new 0701 (?) apparently solves some USB issue (haven't had any, yet, on 602...)


----------



## _REAPER_

Thanks boss man.. AFG has been rough since the summer started looking forward to the break


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eNkrypt*
> 
> Yes, here are my cards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why would they heat up to 50C when they are not in use?
> 
> I can see the CPU temp increasing more when gaming and the cards are in use, but idle not so much.


They probably aren't downclocking when they're idle. Even without a load, if they're sitting at 1100mhz (or whatever the stock speed is on your cards) they're generating a good amount of heat, and without the blower cooler that air is probably getting stuck in your case which is set up more for watercooling than air.


----------



## eNkrypt

Yup, just disabled the card and idle temp went back down to 30C - Well well :| What should I do?

Also, any information on my other questions would be great!

--v
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eNkrypt*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I was wanting some help with my MOBO the thread is here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1499146/help-asus-rampage-iv-be-intel-4930k-oc-problems
> 
> I can't seem to get the think overclocked past 4.3 without MAJOR issues. Could it be a mobo problem?
> /quote]


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Buy a little fan and let this fan blow the air between the graphics cards out of the case.
And if you have a fan position on the sidepanel for a fan buy a fan and let blow this fan inside.


----------



## eNkrypt

Alright, I have the 650D so there isn't a side panel fan - But I am going to attach a fan to the GPU - Is there an easy way to attach a fan to the backplate?

Also, what's your recommendation of a good fan?


----------



## Shadowarez

Any noctua fan would work. Depending on room you have between cards. As can see my gtx 680 dont have alot of room. I sonce added a 80mm noctua between Em to help cool pch as well. 80mm Noctua I bought 4 of these to cool a home server.


----------



## oelkanne

So the day comes when i need Help from you all with more Experience ....

My 3970x won´t hold his Clock because something is holding him Back...dont now what but I think its the Board itself......









When the Chip gets StressTested for a cuple of Seconds he pushed to 4,5 and then goes down to 3,5-4,0 GhZ

What did I missed to Setup??

Multi 45
Offset Voltage: +0,55
C-States on
EIST on
CPU Current...140-180%
Watercooled System
Core Temp : maxed I´ve ever seen so far was 80°C on the First Core

I really Appriciate a helpfull solution for this because this is driving me Nuts


----------



## xarot

Refer to this post...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1472823/i-fell-victim-to-the-rampage-iv-extreme-black-edition#post_21920613


----------



## reev3r

I wish I had some pictures of my first cooling loop... It was build back when such a thing was only a rumor, told in the seedy basements of LAN parties, amidst the ever present pyramid of Mt. Dew cans...

It was made with pieces of soldered copper. Some tubing, and 1/6th" copper plate, soldered to make a solid box, and she worked beautifully!!! I freaking loved it! Sucker would cool my Athlon XP like nothing you had ever heard of!!! Right along with my badass bilge pump!!!


----------



## oelkanne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Refer to this post...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1472823/i-fell-victim-to-the-rampage-iv-extreme-black-edition#post_21920613


Wow...240Watts CPU only...









Thanks..









BTW: You´re not a girl or so??


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Wow...240Watts CPU only...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW: You´re not a girl or so??


No...how did you come to that conclusion?


----------



## oelkanne

Because Core Temp sayz so


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I wish I had some pictures of my first cooling loop... It was build back when such a thing was only a rumor, told in the seedy basements of LAN parties, amidst the ever present pyramid of Mt. Dew cans...
> 
> It was made with pieces of soldered copper. Some tubing, and 1/6th" copper plate, soldered to make a solid box, and she worked beautifully!!! I freaking loved it! Sucker would cool my Athlon XP like nothing you had ever heard of!!! Right along with my badass bilge pump!!!


yes i remember using aquarium water pumps, and making your own blocks.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes i remember using aquarium water pumps, and making your own blocks.


A friend of mine used an aquarium pump, but I did not feel there was enough flow, so I used a 1,000GPH bilge pump...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Up and running my RIVBE now, my mismatched crucial ballistix elite 1866 running in quad channel (cpu-z) and all 16000 mbs are detected in bios. Cpu current at 180%, vcore at 1,2 volts, ram at xmp and running hdd. So far so good, ran cinebench and cpu-z show core voltage at 0,6 volts, hwmonitor shows the same. Temperatures maxed out at 50 degree celsius in cinebench. I will check the core voltage in bios, but have anyone else seen this in cpu-z?

Windows crashes when i am starting prime95 or Intel burn test ...


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Up and running my RIVBE now, my mismatched crucial ballistix elite 1866 running in quad channel (cpu-z) and all 16000 mbs are detected in bios. Cpu current at 180%, vcore at 1,2 volts, ram at xmp and running hdd. So far so good, ran cinebench and cpu-z show core voltage at 0,6 volts, hwmonitor shows the same. Temperatures maxed out at 50 degree celsius in cinebench. I will check the core voltage in bios, but have anyone else seen this in cpu-z?
> 
> Windows crashes when i am starting prime95 or Intel burn test ...


Are you reading the voltage in cpu-z when it's idle? It's probably downclocked.... although .6v sounds really low even when it's downclocked (depending on what chip you're using?)

Best guess is your "mismatched" ram isn't binned to work as a set, you might need to downclock it.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Are you reading the voltage in cpu-z when it's idle? It's probably downclocked.... although .6v sounds really low even when it's downclocked (depending on what chip you're using?)
> 
> Best guess is your "mismatched" ram isn't binned to work as a set, you might need to downclock it.


I am using the 3930k, the voltage in cpu-z is 0,6 volts both at idle and load. Bios shows voltage from 1,184 - 1,200 and it seems normal, but in windows there is a different story.

How do i downclock my ram?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I am using the 3930k, the voltage in cpu-z is 0,6 volts both at idle and load. Bios shows voltage from 1,184 - 1,200 and it seems normal, but in windows there is a different story.
> 
> How do i downclock my ram?


Hmm, never heard of that exact problem before. Again, it's just a guess, but if you bought individual "mismatched" ram that wasn't binned to work as a set, all 4 (or whatever) DIMMs may not work at the exact same timings & voltage, so that could be causing problems. RAM problems can appear VERY random since ram pretty much facilitates everything the system does. By "downclock" your ram, I mean run it at less than 1866mhz. Even mismatched, it should run without a problem at the stock 1333mhz @ 1.65v with stock timings. If it doesn't, there may be a physical problem with one of the DIMMs.

Have you tried running memtest86+? Make a bootable usb drive using the tool and run the test to see if it gives you any errors. ANY error means it's definitely your ram that is a problem. Run it at 1866mhz and see how it goes....then run it at 1333mhz ("Auto" voltage & timings) and see how it goes.

http://www.memtest.org/


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Hmm, never heard of that exact problem before. Again, it's just a guess, but if you bought individual "mismatched" ram that wasn't binned to work as a set, all 4 (or whatever) DIMMs may not work at the exact same timings & voltage, so that could be causing problems. RAM problems can appear VERY random since ram pretty much facilitates everything the system does. By "downclock" your ram, I mean run it at less than 1866mhz. Even mismatched, it should run without a problem at the stock 1333mhz @ 1.65v with stock timings. If it doesn't, there may be a physical problem with one of the DIMMs.
> 
> Have you tried running memtest86+? Make a bootable usb drive using the tool and run the test to see if it gives you any errors. ANY error means it's definitely your ram that is a problem. Run it at 1866mhz and see how it goes....then run it at 1333mhz ("Auto" voltage & timings) and see how it goes.
> 
> http://www.memtest.org/


Crucial sticks. JEDEC probably IS 1866, although, that might be reserved for the sport and sport elite and those "cheaper" product lines. The kits from Crucial I reviewed recently had same default speeds, maybe change in timings and voltage only.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Crucial sticks. JEDEC probably IS 1866, although, that might be reserved for the sport and sport elite and those "cheaper" product lines.


Ah, then I got nothin'. Try memtest anyway. When all other explanations fail, it's usually a ram error.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Ah, then I got nothin'. Try memtest anyway. When all other explanations fail, it's usually a ram error.


Yeah. Might just be some weird timing or something though. trying for less and checking memtest can't hurt.

But...

One test of Memtest is NEVER enough!

You must go at least 2 passes. Full testing takes well over a week. First pass will be quick...second pass is like twice as long.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Hmm, never heard of that exact problem before. Again, it's just a guess, but if you bought individual "mismatched" ram that wasn't binned to work as a set, all 4 (or whatever) DIMMs may not work at the exact same timings & voltage, so that could be causing problems. RAM problems can appear VERY random since ram pretty much facilitates everything the system does. By "downclock" your ram, I mean run it at less than 1866mhz. Even mismatched, it should run without a problem at the stock 1333mhz @ 1.65v with stock timings. If it doesn't, there may be a physical problem with one of the DIMMs.
> 
> Have you tried running memtest86+? Make a bootable usb drive using the tool and run the test to see if it gives you any errors. ANY error means it's definitely your ram that is a problem. Run it at 1866mhz and see how it goes....then run it at 1333mhz ("Auto" voltage & timings) and see how it goes.
> 
> http://www.memtest.org/


I just ran windows memory diagnostic with no faults at xmp (1866, 1,5v) beside it was running just fine on the rampage iv gene i had a couple weeks ago ....

Weird thing fellas, i kicked the vcore up to 1,23 v and it made a pass in Intel burn test standard. Cpu-z still said 0,416 volts but it passed the test. I ran memory diagnostics a couple weeks ago, don't think it is my ram. Will install bf4 and try it now, the cpu seems to need more voltage on the RIVBE than the RIVG.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah. Might just be some weird timing or something though. trying for less and checking memtest can't hurt.
> 
> But...
> 
> One test of Memtest is NEVER enough!
> 
> You must go at least 2 passes. Full testing takes well over a week. First pass will be quick...second pass is like twice as long.


Run it in multi-core mode, it's much faster. If it crashes, run it in multi-core mode again but right before test 7 starts, hit "C" and then choose round-robin or sequential. When test 7 is done, hit "C" again and go back to multi-core. (test 7 crashes in multi-core mode for IB-e, it's a 'known bug'. Not sure if it affects SB-e or not)

(p.s. can you tell I've had to do a LOT of troubleshooting lately? lol)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I just ran windows memory diagnostic with no faults at xmp (1866, 1,5v) beside it was running just fine on the rampage iv gene i had a couple weeks ago ....


It's probably just a timing thing.

otherwise, you can try boost to VCCSA, or boost to vcore. I run 4.5 GHz @ 1.265V w/ 2666 MHz ram, no problem, have had no real ram-related issues other than tertiary timings with 8 GB sticks, which needs to be tweaked manually per IC/IMC capability.

can you toss up some screenshots of your BIOS settings on voltages and timings?

if XMP is failing, you can try to not use XMP, just set primary timings and voltage manually.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's probably just a timing thing.
> 
> otherwise, you can try boost to VCCSA, or boost to vcore. I run 4.5 GHz @ 1.265V w/ 2666 MHz ram, no problem, have had no real ram-related issues other than tertiary timings with 8 GB sticks, which needs to be tweaked manually per IC/IMC capability.
> 
> can you toss up some screenshots of your BIOS settings on voltages and timings?
> 
> if XMP is failing, you can try to not use XMP, just set primary timings and voltage manually.


I have edited the previous post, the timings is 9-9-9-27 at 1,5.
I can't upload pictures because my Internet cable is broken (cut wire in the ground) so it will take me a couple of days at least.

Xmp is unstable, manual, 1333/1600/1866 at 1,35v and 1,5v. Nothing seems to work, the system seems to be stable with cpu at 1,23v


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> A friend of mine used an aquarium pump, but I did not feel there was enough flow, so I used a 1,000GPH *bilge pump*...


Lol.. and I thought I was the only '''loon" who borrowed one from his bass boat.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Btw, I've officially stepped up from the "Rampage IV Extreme Owner's Club" to this one.







Is there a good place to find a detailed breakdown for the UEFI settings that differ from the Extreme? I don't see a dedicated guide/thread on the ROG forum.

http://valid.x86.fr/cjdvlr

(p.s. I'm not oc'ed yet.... running it at stock for a couple weeks to rule out a recurrent problem that I *think* was my previous mobo)


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I got my Internet back this evening, when i get back from work i will test stability. I will look at the VCCSA if the system is not stable, will do some prime95 too, i hope i can get this sorted out pretty soon. Can't wait to test tri/quad fire r9 290x now, probably water cooling next week if the shop have everything i need in stock.


----------



## eNkrypt

I posted in the actual case thready and didn't get any response so I figured I would ask here for others that don't have the case may chime in.

I have the Corsair 650D - Would it be able to fit the XSPC EX280 Dimensions: 143 x 36 x 320 mm (WxDxH) (46mm at ports) on the top without modding? This rad uses 2 x 140mm (4x with push/pull)

I currently am using a XSPC Raystorm 750 AX240 which has 128 x 40 x 286mm (WxDxH) (46mm at ports)

But the pump looks like it is dying on me and I want to switch to the EX280

Only problem is - I have the Rampage IV Black Edition and the Motherboard power plugs seem to be in a terrible spot! It's a TIGHT squeeze to get the power cables plugged in AND have my current radiator mounted to the top with the fans attached.

It seems that the 280 is a smaller height - Maybe that would make it easier? If it fits.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry3er*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, RMAing it tommorow.
> 
> What a horrible experience with this MoBo. I guess im very unlucky.


Man that sucks, a small percentage of these motherboards are bad, its unfortunate you had to get a bad one. This is everyone's fear when getting a motherboard, I consider myself very lucky.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Good news fellas, up and running with 1,23 v + in CPU-Z, just installed the chipset driver and bang, it worked!

The temperature in HWmonitor seems to have solved themselves, but it still shows vcore at 0,416 volts while CPU-Z shows from 1,184 volts to 1,264 volts. I will try to crank the voltage down later on, but for now it will stay at 1,23 volts.

I have to say I am very pleased with this motherboard, even the Wifi-adapter seems to be working great (much better than my previous USB-adapter).

I still have to get crossfire working (have not had the time to deal with more than one card so far).


----------



## SxMAC420

I would like to join the club =D


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I am debating on buying the second PSU for my system. I want it to match my current EVGA G2 1300W, so it will be either P2 1000W or another G2 1300W, they cost the same or a couple of dollars a difference.

Will use one PSU for: 2x R9 290X (overclocked), 3930K (overclocked) with 8-pin, 3x HDD's, 2x SSD's.
Will use the second PSU for: 2x R9 290X (overclocked), RIVBE 24-pin + molex, 2x D5 pumps and alot of fans.

Should I just buy a second G2 1300W then? The best match I guess.


----------



## szeged

can put 4 cards on the 1300w then a 800w psu for the mobo/cpu/other stuff. That other stuff wouldnt even remotely come close to consuming much power, the fans and all that.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Or just wait and get an EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 G2 when it comes out and sell your 1300W. Would wind up easier / cheaper and should still be able to handle 4 OC'd 290X, and OC'd 3930K and the extras.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> can put 4 cards on the 1300w then a 800w psu for the mobo/cpu/other stuff. That other stuff wouldnt even remotely come close to consuming much power, the fans and all that.


I can buy a silver power sp-s650m for 67 bucks now, will that do it for me?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Or just wait and get an EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 G2 when it comes out and sell your 1300W. Would wind up easier / cheaper and should still be able to handle 4 OC'd 290X, and OC'd 3930K and the extras.


I rather think i want one more psu, the EVGA G2 1300 gives enough sound from it. Can't amagine how a 1600 wattage version would be like.


----------



## Mega Man

dedicated circuits


----------



## IT Diva

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I am debating on buying the second PSU for my system. I want it to match my current EVGA G2 1300W, so it will be either P2 1000W or another G2 1300W, they cost the same or a couple of dollars a difference.
> 
> Will use one PSU for: 2x R9 290X (overclocked), 3930K (overclocked) with 8-pin, 3x HDD's, 2x SSD's.
> Will use the second PSU for: 2x R9 290X (overclocked), RIVBE 24-pin + molex, 2x D5 pumps and alot of fans.
> 
> Should I just buy a second G2 1300W then? The best match I guess.


For dual PSU setups, I always keep all the motherboard connections, 24pin, 8pin, extra 4pin, and aux PCIe power, so that they are from the same PSU.

I'd look at putting your 1300 for all the mobo connections and 2 GPU's, and then adding the next PSU, either the 1000 or another 1300 for the other 2 GPU's and all the peripherals like drives, pumps and fans. . . . although SSD's take so little power, you could run them from the mobo PSU if it's more convenient cabling wise.

Darlene


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I am debating on buying the second PSU for my system. I want it to match my current EVGA G2 1300W, so it will be either P2 1000W or another G2 1300W, they cost the same or a couple of dollars a difference.
> 
> *Will use one PSU for: 2x R9 290X (overclocked), 3930K (overclocked) with 8-pin, 3x HDD's, 2x SSD's.
> Will use the second PSU for: 2x R9 290X (overclocked), RIVBE 24-pin + molex, 2x D5 pumps and alot of fans.*
> 
> Should I just buy a second G2 1300W then? The best match I guess.


you really need to keep all mobo connections on one PSU, including the PCIE aux power 4 pin. Everything else can then be connected as you like. Even identical PSUs will have a slightly different ground potential on the DC side, so if the second PSU is not grounded to the chassis with the 1st psu, that current balance is routed thru the component common ground...So, just connect a wire between the mounting screws on both psus. Helps to reduce but will not eliminate ground potential flux.

If both PSUs are in the same chassis - then you don't need the connecting wire.

edit - exactly as Diva recommended.









[alternatively, sell what you have and get the AX1500i - should be plenty of power for your rig]


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> false
> For dual PSU setups, I always keep all the motherboard connections, 24pin, 8pin, extra 4pin, and aux PCIe power, so that they are from the same PSU.
> 
> I'd look at putting your 1300 for all the mobo connections and 2 GPU's, and then adding the next PSU, either the 1000 or another 1300 for the other 2 GPU's and all the peripherals like drives, pumps and fans. . . . although SSD's take so little power, you could run them from the mobo PSU if it's more convenient cabling wise.
> 
> Darlene


Sure, I can use one PSU for all the motherboard connections, no problem.

I thought of just getting a cheap Silver Power 650 wattage PSU as the second (because it is 67 USD while G2 1300 is 284 USD and I probably do not need the extra, let's say 700-800 watts of power. I have to see what I will do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> you really need to keep all mobo connections on one PSU, including the PCIE aux power 4 pin. Everything else can then be connected as you like. Even identical PSUs will have a slightly different ground potential on the DC side, so if the second PSU is not grounded to the chassis with the 1st psu, that current balance is routed thru the component common ground...So, just connect a wire between the mounting screws on both psus. Helps to reduce but will not eliminate ground potential flux.
> 
> If both PSUs are in the same chassis - then you don't need the connecting wire.
> 
> edit - exactly as Diva recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [alternatively, sell what you have and get the AX1500i - should be plenty of power for your rig]


Both PSU's will be in the same case so there is not really any grounding problems. Will do a mod for the Corsair Carbide Air 540 for dual PSU's.


----------



## dragvinz

Hi guys,

Very new to this forum here, a new owner of the rampage iv BE. Just wanted to ask around if anyone had tried running Corsair Vengeance Pro 64gb 2400 ram on this board and had no issues at all?

Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

what you are trying to do, is less dependent on the board and extremely dependent on the IMC of the CPU


----------



## dragvinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what you are trying to do, is less dependent on the board and extremely dependent on the IMC of the CPU


Apologies, im very new to building a rig and knowledge about computer parts, but I decided to give it a go. I did read something about getting lucky with obtaining a good cpu chip, but does that mean if I did not get a good cpu chip which overclocks properly, I would not be able to get my 2400 64gb of ram running stable as well?

its pretty confusing, just wanted to get more help and advise before starting on the build.

thanks a lot in advance!!


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragvinz*
> 
> Apologies, im very new to building a rig and knowledge about computer parts, but I decided to give it a go. I did read something about getting lucky with obtaining a good cpu chip, but does that mean if I did not get a good cpu chip which overclocks properly, I would not be able to get my 2400 64gb of ram running stable as well?
> 
> its pretty confusing, just wanted to get more help and advise before starting on the build.
> 
> thanks a lot in advance!!


The sweet spot for RAM with the 4930K and the 4960X CPU's is 2133Mhz is what i have found.









*But the question is do you really need to use 64GB of RAM at all???*

Try to give us more Info on the set up you are looking to build so we can help you more, and hopefully save you money and wasting your time as well.









Regards,

AJ.


----------



## dragvinz

Thank you so much for your help.

Here is the parts that I have bought so far.

Corsair AX 1500i
Corsair 760t white case
Corsair Vengeance Pro 64gb 2400 ram
Corsair h100i
4X corsair sp120 fans for push/pull on top with H100i
corsair af 140 for the back fan
rampage iv black edition
i7 4930k
2X titan black (one is asus, the other is evga SC)
2X samsung 840 pro 512gb ssd
1X 2tb WD 7200rpm harddisk
NZXT hue lights

I do gaming and intensive video editing and after effects. Mainly I use this as a workstation/gaming machine.

My first time building a machine myself, been reading all kinds of stuff and trying to get more help and advice to un-confuse myself. I am based in Asia and getting some parts are tricky, which may answer your question about the gpus. ( I read that they can both work in sli with each running their own speeds, am i wrong about this?)

Thank you so much for all of your help!


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragvinz*
> 
> Thank you so much for your help.
> 
> Here is the parts that I have bought so far.
> 
> Corsair AX 1500i
> Corsair 760t white case
> Corsair Vengeance Pro 64gb 2400 ram
> Corsair h100i
> 4X corsair sp120 fans for push/pull on top with H100i
> corsair af 140 for the back fan
> rampage iv black edition
> i7 4930k
> 2X titan black (one is asus, the other is evga SC)
> 2X samsung 840 pro 512gb ssd
> 1X 2tb WD 7200rpm harddisk
> NZXT hue lights
> 
> I do gaming and intensive video editing and after effects. Mainly I use this as a workstation/gaming machine.
> 
> My first time building a machine myself, been reading all kinds of stuff and trying to get more help and advice to un-confuse myself. I am based in Asia and getting some parts are tricky, which may answer your question about the gpus. ( I read that they can both work in sli with each running their own speeds, am i wrong about this?)
> 
> Thank you so much for all of your help!


OK thanks for the list of things you have there i can see why you went with 64GB if you are Video Editing etc!

You have a option that if the Ram will not work @ 2400Mhz then you could down clock it to its base Frequency and use it at that instead.

On a everyday system there will not be much of a difference in my opinon.

As for your 2 GPU'S that could be a small problem the base clocks and the Vram have to be the same, then they will as far as i know work together!

Are these the 2 GPU's you have purchased????

http://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487030&cm_re=EVGA_TITAN_BLACK-_-14-487-030-_-Product

As you can see the base clock is @ 967Mhz and the Boost clock is @ 1072Mhz!

http://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121865

On this one its 889Mhz and the boost is @ 980Mhz its totally different to the EVGA Black!









Looking at everything else your good to go as they say.
















Regards,

AJ.


----------



## dragvinz

Thanks a lot AJ,

so I should try it at 2400 speed first, and if it fails, lower the speed of the ram? I have the question then, when doing a fresh install of the system, how do I know if the ram works at the 2400 speed? Can it be done in bios?

Regarding the different speed of the gpu, even though they are both titan blacks, is it possible to overclock the asus to reach the same speed as the SC EVGA's in order for them to work together? If so, do i first overclock the asus first, then put in the EVGA to use on SLI?

Thank you very much for your help and advice!!


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragvinz*
> 
> Thanks a lot AJ,
> 
> so I should try it at 2400 speed first, and if it fails, lower the speed of the ram? I have the question then, when doing a fresh install of the system, how do I know if the ram works at the 2400 speed? Can it be done in bios?
> 
> Regarding the different speed of the gpu, even though they are both titan blacks, is it possible to overclock the asus to reach the same speed as the SC EVGA's in order for them to work together? If so, do i first overclock the asus first, then put in the EVGA to use on SLI?
> 
> Thank you very much for your help and advice!!


*Sorry i have just up dated my previous post to you!!*

As you can see if those are your GPU's they will not work together and you can not OC one to make it the same!

So to answer your question its either 2 x EVGA's or 2 x ASUS GPU's at the same base clocks and boost clocks for both!

As for the RAM you can set that into the Bios and try to get it to work, if not you can down clock it by resetting it into the Bios with the lower settings!

AJ.


----------



## dragvinz

Hi AJ,

Here is the post that made me think I could do that =(

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1752764/exact-video-cards-sli.html

I have two titan blacks, just that one is superclocked by EVGA, and the other is the base one by ASUS


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragvinz*
> 
> Hi AJ,
> 
> Here is the post that made me think I could do that =(
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1752764/exact-video-cards-sli.html
> 
> I have two titan blacks, just that one is superclocked by EVGA, and the other is the base one by ASUS


Yeah i see your point, but i have always found by using the same 2 GPU's @ the same clocks help to stop any kind of problems!

But i say again its the way i have built my own PC's here over the years, this is my 2 here!











And my own set up!











Well have to go now will be back later in the thread, if you need any further help.

Kind Regards,

AJ.


----------



## dragvinz

Thanks so much AJ,

your rig is looking fantastic with the blue and white color scheme!

I am hoping to gain more experience with my first build and learn more. I will try with what I have first, hoping that there will not be problems.

Will update here with my findings!


----------



## friskiest

You probably wouldn't have any issue with using two different cards.
You could always head over to the Titan club and find a bios for the Titan Black, flash both your cards and they would essentially be the same then.

You'll probably face more of an issue with your ram than you will with your cards imho.


----------



## dragvinz

yup, I predict so as well. Well, one can only hope right now. Would anyone have any advice for testing ram stability with my machine specs?

Thank you!


----------



## Ajay57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragvinz*
> 
> yup, I predict so as well. Well, one can only hope right now. Would anyone have any advice for testing ram stability with my machine specs?
> 
> Thank you!


You could use MEMTEST to do that if you need to!

1, http://www.memtest86.com/

Read this and if you need it you can download and install it to a thumbnail drive or USB STICK!

Also if you decide to run the 2 TITAN BLACKS together, then put the EVGA into the MASTER SLOT and the ASUS into the slave position, as that might work for you.









AJ.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anyone using the EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock here? How is the CPU cooling on that block?


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anyone using the EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock here? How is the CPU cooling on that block?


Got one waiting to install, shall let you know what there like


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> Got one waiting to install, shall let you know what there like


Good, I get the block early next week so I know by then myself. But I would really like to know anyways.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Hi guys,

where can I find the drivers for Win XP? thanks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Same place you can find the drivers for WinME and Win98 I suppose.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Ok guys wanting to play with a dedicated physx card. I have 2 reference gtx 780s in the first and 3rd x16 slots. I know its overkill but I haven't been able to sell the darn thing and its not being used so i'm gonna put my ASUS GTX770 DC2OC-2GD5 as a physx card and mess around with it. My question is what slot should i put it in #2 slot or #4 slot. Can I put it in slot 2 and still use that sexy R4BE SLI bridge that came with the motherboard? Or should it set in slot 4 all by its lonesome? Thanks


----------



## nickolp1974

Got my clear plastidip electrical insulation spray and gave these a couple of coats, hope they still work!! :?

Now, anyone got an idea how to get the heatpipe out of the BE I/O cover??


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragvinz*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Very new to this forum here, a new owner of the rampage iv BE. Just wanted to ask around if anyone had tried running Corsair Vengeance Pro 64gb 2400 ram on this board and had no issues at all?
> 
> Thanks!


Not sure if anyone helped you and if this is any help but I am running 4x8GB Vengeance Pro 2133Mhz sticks without any issue. 2133MHz is stable on XMP although I did have to increase VCORE a little. The Qualified Vendor List for RIVBE is way out of date and this memory isn't on it but it works fine. You should/might be ok.


----------



## dragvinz

Thanks very much! I will try it out soon and update my results when I am able to get it running stably. Would you be able to give me some advice on how to get them installed? i.e should i immediately stick all of the ram in, and boot it bios, change its settings to a lower speed and install windows first, or stick all of them in, install windows, then go back to bios to check the speed and change if its a lower speed, etc?

thanks very much for your help in advance!!


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragvinz*
> 
> Thanks very much! I will try it out soon and update my results when I am able to get it running stably. Would you be able to give me some advice on how to get them installed? i.e should i immediately stick all of the ram in, and boot it bios, change its settings to a lower speed and install windows first, or stick all of them in, install windows, then go back to bios to check the speed and change if its a lower speed, etc?
> 
> thanks very much for your help in advance!!


I could be mistaken but install OS first then simply put all 8 sticks in and boot into BIOS and confirm that they are recognized, keep them at 1333MHz and dial in your CPU then set them to XMP?


----------



## Seallone

Hi all,

Im a little worried about the temperature on the South bridge. PCH temp is 60.c after being under load for 30 mins. no overclock on cpu, and 3 gtx ti's.

Should i do something about it. ?


----------



## Shadowarez

I put a Noctua 120 mm near pch dont see mine go above 32-35c
And have my cpu clocked at 4.7Ghz.


----------



## dragvinz

Thanks! I will give it a try=)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickolp*
> 
> Got my clear plastidip electrical insulation spray and gave these a couple of coats, hope they still work!! :?
> 
> *Now, anyone got an idea how to get the heatpipe out of the BE I/O cover??
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I believe that I was the first one to accomplish that, and several others have done it since.

I used a propane torch, and at least one other has managed with a monster 2KW heat gun.

Discussion starts here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/2700#post_21431694

Darlene


----------



## tistou77

Hello

Since yesterday, I again the problem at boot.
Cold boot, power off after several hours (no problem if the power remains ON) with the latest bios (so that was OK since weeks)

So to boot, I don't have the "dual boot" and the bios is reset to zero (such as CMOS) along with the date and time.
It seems whatsoever related to an unstable OC, but my OC is stable with different bench and I doubt that the "check" of the R4BE more stressful than any bench

In addition, a friend tested with an unstable OC and no problem to boot with its R4BE.
The problem not come from the motherboard?

No problem with the 0507 bios

Thanks for your help


----------



## Ftimster

what is the general consensus on BIOS for the Black Edition board now, I'm still running 403 quite happily i might add!!


----------



## Shadowarez

Well im missing my stock bios. Soon as I upgraded I lost about 500 mhz on my Oc. Since then been trying to get flashback to work no luck yet.

Stuck on 602 bios it works but its like Joe Swanson (Faimly guy) half crippled. Since I flashed 602 wont Oc past 4.4ghz and cstates dont work no matter the settings so its full bore all time.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Since yesterday, I again the problem at boot.
> Cold boot, power off after several hours (no problem if the power remains ON) with the latest bios (so that was OK since weeks)
> 
> So to boot, I don't have the "dual boot" and the bios is reset to zero (such as CMOS) along with the date and time.
> It seems whatsoever related to an unstable OC, but my OC is stable with different bench and I doubt that the "check" of the R4BE more stressful than any bench
> 
> In addition, a friend tested with an unstable OC and no problem to boot with its R4BE.
> The problem not come from the motherboard?
> 
> No problem with the 0507 bios
> 
> Thanks for your help


due to the date and time, have you checked the battery yet ? if not try to replace it


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> due to the date and time, have you checked the battery yet ? if not try to replace it


Hello

It is not the battery, if I reflash with the 0507 bios, no problem.
According to Raja, this is a problem OC unstable, but then I have a big doubt


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Well im missing my stock bios. Soon as I upgraded I lost about 500 mhz on my Oc. Since then been trying to get flashback to work no luck yet.
> 
> Stuck on 602 bios it works but its like Joe Swanson (Faimly guy) half crippled. Since I flashed 602 wont Oc past 4.4ghz and cstates dont work no matter the settings so its full bore all time.


Can we not go back or keep the old BIOS on hand as we can store and switch between two BIOS'?


----------



## Ftimster

another question I'm hearing rumblings about a 2400 megahertz memory bug anyone link me to some info on that I've been away for too long apparently thanks!!


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> another question I'm hearing rumblings about a 2400 megahertz memory bug anyone link me to some info on that I've been away for too long apparently thanks!!


http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/1690

All you need to know is here to read for you ^^


----------



## NE0XY

Hi

I'm about to order this motherboard and got a bit confused. If I understand correctly, the motherboard has 2 Intel Sata6GB ports and 4 ASmedia Sata 6GB ports, what's the difference between these? I have 1ssd which I run windows and a few small programs on, 1 hdd with games and such and 1 hdd with all my media etc. Will it work properly if I connect a drive to the ASmedia sata 6gb compared to an intel port?


----------



## Shadowarez

Put your ssd on the Intel port and other hdds on asmedia. You will see far better performance on the ssd being connected to native Intel ports.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I'm about to order this motherboard and got a bit confused. If I understand correctly, the motherboard has 2 Intel Sata6GB ports and 4 ASmedia Sata 6GB ports, what's the difference between these? I have 1ssd which I run windows and a few small programs on, 1 hdd with games and such and 1 hdd with all my media etc. Will it work properly if I connect a drive to the ASmedia sata 6gb compared to an intel port?


Intel sata is onboard with x79 chipset, Asmedia is a third party chip.

The Intel ones are always better to use. You can use them all without issue at the same time.


----------



## NE0XY

Thanks alot =)
It's what I thought but I'm a little nervous since I'm spending alot of money =P
Also, all fan headers are PWM enabled right? I can run pwm fans and pwm pumps and controll them via the AI suite thingy?


----------



## Shadowarez

Personally I used a 6 ch pwm fan controller for fans and left the cpu fan for my pump. Also a heads up if your board is stable on stock bios dont update. I made that mistake.


----------



## NE0XY

Okay thanks. I don't have a fan controller and don't really have the money to buy one so I'll stick to using the motherboard for now.


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah has enough fan headers. Just found in my case need 4 pin pwm fan Extenders.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Thanks alot =)
> It's what I thought but I'm a little nervous since I'm spending alot of money =P
> *Also, all fan headers are PWM enabled right?* I can run pwm fans and pwm pumps and controll them via the AI suite thingy?


Wrong . . .

Refer to page 1-44 in the manual.

The CPU and CPU-OPT headers are the only ones with that have PWM control on the 4th pin.

All the other headers have a +5V source on the 4th pin.

If you use PWM fans on the other headers, the 5V source tells the fan control electronics to run at max, while the fan speed is actually being controlled via voltage control by the mobo on pins 1 and 2.

PWM fan manufacturers do not recommend controlling the speed of those fans via voltage control.

If you want to use PWM fans properly, you'll need a PWM capable fan controller like the Aquaero 6 . . . . .

Otherwise, . . . . if you need to use your mobo to control your fans, use 3 pin fans.

Keep in mind also, that you'll be limited to how many fans, total load, by the per header current rating of the mobo.

The CPU header is limited to 12W, or 1A load, so if you plan to run a PWM pump from the CPU header, you'll need to use the pump's molex for power, and just use the header for tach and PWM lines.

I could not find a rating for the other fan headers, but I'd be sure not to exceed 1A on any of them, rather than risk damaging the board.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Put your ssd on the Intel port and other hdds on asmedia. You will see far better performance on the ssd being connected to native Intel ports.


true
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Thanks alot =)
> It's what I thought but I'm a little nervous since I'm spending alot of money =P
> *Also, all fan headers are PWM enabled right?* I can run pwm fans and pwm pumps and controll them via the AI suite thingy?
> 
> 
> 
> Wrong . . .
> 
> Refer to page 1-44 in the manual.
> 
> The CPU and CPU-OPT headers are the only ones with that have PWM control on the 4th pin.
> 
> All the other headers have a +5V source on the 4th pin.
> 
> If you use PWM fans on the other headers, the 5V source tells the fan control electronics to run at max, while the fan speed is actually being controlled via voltage control by the mobo on pins 1 and 2.
> *
> PWM fan manufacturers do not recommend controlling the speed of those fans via voltage control.
> 
> *
> If you want to use PWM fans properly, you'll need a PWM capable fan controller like the Aquaero 6 . . . . .
> 
> Otherwise, . . . . if you need to use your mobo to control your fans, use 3 pin fans.
> 
> Keep in mind also, that you'll be limited to how many fans, total load, by the per header current rating of the mobo.
> 
> The CPU header is limited to 12W, or 1A load, so if you plan to run a PWM pump from the CPU header, you'll need to use the pump's molex for power, and just use the header for tach and PWM lines.
> 
> I could not find a rating for the other fan headers, but I'd be sure not to exceed 1A on any of them, rather than risk damaging the board.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

and as usual true and true


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wrong . . .
> 
> Refer to page 1-44 in the manual.
> 
> The CPU and CPU-OPT headers are the only ones with that have PWM control on the 4th pin.
> 
> All the other headers have a +5V source on the 4th pin.
> 
> If you use PWM fans on the other headers, the 5V source tells the fan control electronics to run at max, while the fan speed is actually being controlled via voltage control by the mobo on pins 1 and 2.
> 
> PWM fan manufacturers do not recommend controlling the speed of those fans via voltage control.
> 
> If you want to use PWM fans properly, you'll need a PWM capable fan controller like the Aquaero 6 . . . . .
> 
> Otherwise, . . . . if you need to use your mobo to control your fans, use 3 pin fans.
> 
> Keep in mind also, that you'll be limited to how many fans, total load, by the per header current rating of the mobo.
> 
> The CPU header is limited to 12W, or 1A load, so if you plan to run a PWM pump from the CPU header, you'll need to use the pump's molex for power, and just use the header for tach and PWM lines.
> 
> I could not find a rating for the other fan headers, but I'd be sure not to exceed 1A on any of them, rather than risk damaging the board.
> 
> Darlene


Okay, thanks for clearing that up.

Will the board handle two fans with a Y splitter to the fan header?

If I keep the 4pin fans and use an EK 4 way fan splitter that has a molex and 4 pin connector, will the mobo be able to handle it so I can change their speeds?
Or should I use the same EK splitter but with 3pin fans?
Is it possible to use 2x Swiftech MCP655-PWM connected with a Y splitter into the CPU fan header? (along with a molex to the PSU)

It also doesn't make sense to me that you make PWM fans when you can't really use them, not even in such a highend board as this... =/


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wrong . . .
> 
> Refer to page 1-44 in the manual.
> 
> The CPU and CPU-OPT headers are the only ones with that have PWM control on the 4th pin.
> 
> All the other headers have a +5V source on the 4th pin.
> 
> If you use PWM fans on the other headers, the 5V source tells the fan control electronics to run at max, while the fan speed is actually being controlled via voltage control by the mobo on pins 1 and 2.
> 
> PWM fan manufacturers do not recommend controlling the speed of those fans via voltage control.
> 
> If you want to use PWM fans properly, you'll need a PWM capable fan controller like the Aquaero 6 . . . . .
> 
> Otherwise, . . . . if you need to use your mobo to control your fans, use 3 pin fans.
> 
> Keep in mind also, that you'll be limited to how many fans, total load, by the per header current rating of the mobo.
> 
> The CPU header is limited to 12W, or 1A load, so if you plan to run a PWM pump from the CPU header, you'll need to use the pump's molex for power, and just use the header for tach and PWM lines.
> 
> I could not find a rating for the other fan headers, but I'd be sure not to exceed 1A on any of them, rather than risk damaging the board.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, thanks for clearing that up.
> 
> Will the board handle two fans with a Y splitter to the fan header?
> 
> *If I keep the 4pin fans and use an EK 4 way fan splitter that has a molex and 4 pin connector, will the mobo be able to handle it so I can change their speeds?*
> 
> Or should I use the same EK splitter but with 3pin fans?
> 
> *Is it possible to use 2x Swiftech MCP655-PWM connected with a Y splitter into the CPU fan header? (along with a molex to the PSU)
> *
> 
> It also doesn't make sense to me that you make PWM fans when you can't really use them, not even in such a highend board as this... =/
Click to expand...

The CPU and CPU-OPT headers are clones, so what you set for CPU shows up on the CPU-OPT.

If you put PWM fans on a 4 pin splitter with a Molex for power, they will work fine from the mobo.
Be sure to set an appropriate control curve.

If you put 2 PWM D5's on a 4 pin splitter with a Molex for power, they will work fine from the mobo
This would need a much different control curve.

What you can't do is run both, fans and pumps, and control them separately from the mobo.

Fans need wide range of PWM, from ~10% to 100% to cover their complete speed range.

Pumps, on the other hand, need about 15% to 65% to cover their full speed range.

Trying to control pumps and fans from the same curve is a fail . . . either the fans stay too slow, or the pump runs maxed out wayyy too much.

If you're going to run dual D5's, then if you just run the Molex power connectors and leave the other wires unconnected, or connect one tach wire to the mobo, they'll run at 60% by default, which should be fine until you invest in a suitable PWM capable controller.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

one of my mobos can. it has no cpu opt but 2 separate pwm headers, that can be controlled differently ( gigabyte ) but i still use my aquaero !~


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The CPU and CPU-OPT headers are clones, so what you set for CPU shows up on the CPU-OPT.
> 
> If you put PWM fans on a 4 pin splitter with a Molex for power, they will work fine from the mobo.
> Be sure to set an appropriate control curve.
> 
> If you put 2 PWM D5's on a 4 pin splitter with a Molex for power, they will work fine from the mobo
> This would need a much different control curve.
> 
> What you can't do is run both, fans and pumps, and control them separately from the mobo.
> 
> Fans need wide range of PWM, from ~10% to 100% to cover their complete speed range.
> 
> Pumps, on the other hand, need about 15% to 65% to cover their full speed range.
> 
> Trying to control pumps and fans from the same curve is a fail . . . either the fans stay too slow, or the pump runs maxed out wayyy too much.
> 
> If you're going to run dual D5's, then if you just run the Molex power connectors and leave the other wires unconnected, or connect one tach wire to the mobo, they'll run at 60% by default, which should be fine until you invest in a suitable PWM capable controller.
> 
> Darlene


Hmm okay. It seems like a fan controller is the best choice then.
Let's say I get this one: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10609/bus-219/Scythe_Kaze_Master_Pro_525_6_Channel_Fan_Controller_Temp_Display_-_Black_KM03-BK.html?tl=g34c17s286&id=jPYGAm8p&mv_pc=12745 Do I get 4pin or 3pin fans? Can I connect the pump to this one? Can I use a 4 way fan splitter without molex or should it be with molex?

Edit: I looked at the pictures and it looks like they use 3pin on the controller.


----------



## IT Diva

The Aquaero 6 is the only one so far that has multiple (4) Fully capable PWM channels.

They can also be configured as voltage control channels, so you can have a combination of PWM and voltage control channels, say 2 chans PWM and 2 chans VC. . . . . mix and match to meet your needs.

D.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Aquaero 6 is the only one so far that has multiple (4) Fully capable PWM channels.
> 
> They can also be configured as voltage control channels, so you can have a combination of PWM and voltage control channels, say 2 chans PWM and 2 chans VC. . . . . mix and match to meet your needs.
> 
> D.


Okay, but what about the one I linked? "Scythe Kaze Master Pro"? If I get the non PWM versions of the fans that I want and connect them to a 4way fan splitter *without* a molex and then connect it to the fan controller, will I be able to control all 4 fans as a bundle? Or will I need a 4way splitter *with* molex. And then I'll just run one pump on the motherboard cpu fan header and the other pump on the motherboard cpu_opt?

Edit: I'll be using 4x: Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-2000 140mm, 4x Noctua NF-F12, iPPC-2000 120mm, 5x Cougar 120mm x 25mm CFD Series LED Fan - Blue LED


----------



## Mega Man

if you take any 3 pin fans, and use a molex splitter, you will be running them at 12v unless you mod then for 3v/7v either way, no control

as far as without molex, possible, you would need to look at amperage on fans and really when you undervolt fans, you cause more amp draw, so oversize it


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you take any 3 pin fans, and use a molex splitter, you will be running them at 12v unless you mod then for 3v/7v either way, no control
> 
> as far as without molex, possible, you would need to look at amperage on fans and really when you undervolt fans, you cause more amp draw, so oversize it


Okay, so no molex then.
This is what I got from Noctuas site:
Max. Input Power 2,16 W
Max. Input Current 0,18 A
I really have no clue what to make of this stuff =/


----------



## Mega Man

at bare min 10w... i do mean min


----------



## NE0XY

Sorry if I'm slow, I'm not following. Bare minimum what?


----------



## Mega Man

10w per channel


----------



## NE0XY

Their website says 12W max per channel. Isn't 10W alot to be the minimum, or are we talking about different things?
Maybe we should take this in PM or somewhere else since it isn't related to the motherboard anymore?


----------



## Mega Man

its fine, that would work


----------



## NE0XY

Thanks alot for the help man, you've been patient with the newbie =) (+rep)
I'll order the fan controller in the morning and change the order to 3pin instead of 4pin =)


----------



## bastian

New BETA 801 BIOS posted:

RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION Beta BIOS 0801
Enables 128GB(8*16GB) support by IM ( Intelligent Memory ) memory modules

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/RAMPAGE-IV-BLACK-EDITION-ASUS-0801.zip

Latest official 701:

RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION BIOS 0701
Improve system stability.

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/RAMPAGE-IV-BLACK-EDITION-ASUS-0701.zip


----------



## dragvinz

Hi all,

Im very new to building a computer, and have been reading up guides and forums to help me along the way. I have a h100i, rampage iv black edition mobo, 4 high performance sp120 fans that are connected to the h100i for pushpull.

Case is a corsair 760t.

1st question: is it better to use the sp120 fans or use the ones that come with the pwm? I connected the fans via the y connector and connect it to the corsair pump.

2nd question: the 3 pin connector from the h100i, which actually only consist of one wire, when connected to the cpu_fan, i find it to be loose and comes out easily. Why is that so?

appreciate all the help i can get!

thanks!


----------



## dragvinz

Hi all,

I have one more question regarding front panel usb 3 and usb 2 connectors. I am quite confused as to where to plug these into the motherboard of my rampage iv black edition. the front panel usb 3 and usb 2 looks like this:

http://www.madshrimps.be/articles/article/1000577/Corsair-Graphite-Series-760T-Full-Tower-Computer-Case-Review/8#axzz37VJhQS8H

Its the second picture, the 4 wires next to the sata connector.

Can anyone help?

Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

that is what you plug fans into i assume the case has a built in fan controller

the next pic down is the usb plugs

to the fans personal preference / specs are what matter esp on a rad


----------



## szeged

hi guys, was doing some sub zero benching earlier and was having trouble with my 780ti KPE getting too cold with the dvi cable in causing it to bug out, so i put in a dvi to vga adapter and tried using a vga cable. started getting no signal on two different monitors, with multiple cables for each. the Q code on the motherboard was usually 34, sometimes AE. After a few hours of messing around with the cables and monitors trying to get a signal, i started getting Q code 00, i tried reseating the cpu and the ln2 pot. no luck, still got 00. took everything apart, cleaning off the insulation/grease from the 780ti and motherboard, washed a bit tonight, gonna wash them some more tomorrow and let them sit. anyone have any ideas on what could have gone wrong in the time it took me to switch from a dvi cable to dvi vga adapter? even the original monitor/cable set up at ambient temps of 30c on the cpu and gpu werent working.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragvinz*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have one more question regarding front panel usb 3 and usb 2 connectors. I am quite confused as to where to plug these into the motherboard of my rampage iv black edition. the front panel usb 3 and usb 2 looks like this:
> 
> http://www.madshrimps.be/articles/article/1000577/Corsair-Graphite-Series-760T-Full-Tower-Computer-Case-Review/8#axzz37VJhQS8H
> 
> Its the second picture, the 4 wires next to the sata connector.
> 
> Can anyone help?
> 
> Thanks!


Um, in the second picture I'm seeing on that page that there are 4 PWM fan connectors next to a sata connector.



Then the 3rd picture has (from L to R) a USB 3.0, HD Audio, USB 2.0, and the front panel connectors.



From the manual:


----------



## dragvinz

oh, so you mean, those are the fan controllers for the front fans, and i should plug the fans into those wires? There seems to be 4 of them though am i right? I actually plugged the front fans straight into the motherboard.

with those 4 wires, does it mean i can connect 4 fans into the front panel fan controller so that I can control the 2 speed for those fans from the front?

i asked about the pwm fans, because in some forums i read about people having problems with non pwm fans. some get a higher fan speed with non pwm fans though. so im not sure what is the best way to go about doing this.

lastly, any help regarding the 3pin fan connector from the corsair h100i pump to be placed into the cpu_fan header? for mine, it feels very loose, im not sure if this is supposed to be like that.

thanks for all the help!


----------



## dragvinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Um, in the second picture I'm seeing on that page that there are 4 PWM fan connectors next to a sata connector.
> 
> 
> 
> Then the 3rd picture has (from L to R) a USB 3.0, HD Audio, USB 2.0, and the front panel connectors.
> 
> 
> 
> From the manual:


yup, silly me, i just learnt that i wasnt talking about the usb connectors, but i believe the fan connectors for the front panel fan controller.

thank you!


----------



## dragvinz

I would like to ask for some advice on how to connect optical drives, hdd, ssd, etc.

Currently on this motherboard it has 2 intel 3gbs sata, and 6 6gbs (2 intel and 4 asmedia)

I have an optical drive that needs to go into one sata

2 samsung 840 pro for raid 0

2 wd black 7200rpm for raid 1

1) Where should i connect them to?

2) are there other components that need to use the sata drives on the motherboard?

3) Does it matter if i connect a bunch of different stuff onto a single 4 piece wire, i.e. hdd, hue lighting, ssd, h100i pump?

Thanks very much!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragvinz*
> 
> I would like to ask for some advice on how to connect optical drives, hdd, ssd, etc.
> 
> Currently on this motherboard it has 2 intel 3gbs sata, and 6 6gbs (2 intel and 4 asmedia)
> 
> I have an optical drive that needs to go into one sata
> 
> 2 samsung 840 pro for raid 0
> 
> 2 wd black 7200rpm for raid 1
> 
> 1) Where should i connect them to?
> 
> 2) are there other components that need to use the sata drives on the motherboard?
> 
> 3) Does it matter if i connect a bunch of different stuff onto a single 4 piece wire, i.e. hdd, hue lighting, ssd, h100i pump?
> 
> Thanks very much!!


Always use the Intel 6Gb ports for your boot SSD's, they're always the fastest and least problematic . . . . then use a pair of the 3Gb ports for the WD's and another Intel for your optical drive.

The ASmedia, if I recall correctly, are AHCI only, and do not support RAID . . . I'd use those as a last resort once you run out of Intels.

If you want to run raids, be sure you have the disk files on a thumb drive to put in when the OS install gives you the option for third party files.

I'd create the boot raid first with just those 2 drives attached and do the OS install, then create the second raid.

Darlene


----------



## dragvinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Always use the Intel 6Gb ports for your boot SSD's, they're always the fastest and least problematic . . . . then use a pair of the 3Gb ports for the WD's and another Intel for your optical drive.
> 
> The ASmedia, if I recall correctly, are AHCI only, and do not support RAID . . . I'd use those as a last resort once you run out of Intels.
> 
> If you want to run raids, be sure you have the disk files on a thumb drive to put in when the OS install gives you the option for third party files.
> 
> I'd create the boot raid first with just those 2 drives attached and do the OS install, then create the second raid.
> 
> Darlene


Thank you so much for your help!

Would you be able to take some time to look at my config and see if there are things to take note of? I am very new at building systems, been spending a few days building, I dont even dare to turn on the system yet!

Here is my config.

i7 4930k
h100i push pull
4X sp120 fans no pwm
1X af140 fan at the back of chassis
corsair 760t case
rampage iv black edition
nzxt hue lighting
2X titan black, one is evga superclocked, the other is asus
2X samsung pro 840 512 gb
2X WD Black 3tb
1 lg optical burner
ax1500i
64 gb of 2400 vengeance pro ram

thank you!!


----------



## dragvinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Always use the Intel 6Gb ports for your boot SSD's, they're always the fastest and least problematic . . . . then use a pair of the 3Gb ports for the WD's and another Intel for your optical drive.
> 
> The ASmedia, if I recall correctly, are AHCI only, and do not support RAID . . . I'd use those as a last resort once you run out of Intels.
> 
> If you want to run raids, be sure you have the disk files on a thumb drive to put in when the OS install gives you the option for third party files.
> 
> I'd create the boot raid first with just those 2 drives attached and do the OS install, then create the second raid.
> 
> Darlene


Hi Darlene, Thanks for your time again. One thing I don't understand is

If you want to run raids, be sure you have the disk files on a thumb drive to put in when the OS install gives you the option for third party files.

Would you be able to further explain this sentence? What are the disk files I have to take note of?

Thanks!!


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Always use the Intel 6Gb ports for your boot SSD's, they're always the fastest and least problematic . . . . then use a pair of the 3Gb ports for the WD's and another Intel for your optical drive.
> 
> The ASmedia, if I recall correctly, are AHCI only, and do not support RAID . . . I'd use those as a last resort once you run out of Intels.
> 
> If you want to run raids, be sure you have the disk files on a thumb drive to put in when the OS install gives you the option for third party files.
> 
> I'd create the boot raid first with just those 2 drives attached and do the OS install, then create the second raid.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene, I tried to switch my SSD boot-drive from the 3Gb port to the Intel 6Gb port but was told I had to repair windows when I turned it back on. I was so worried that I would have to re-install Windows again that when I finally got it working again I just left it on the 3Gb port on the mobo. Do you know what I am describing and could you offer some advice as to how to switch ports? Thanks in advance.


----------



## nickolp1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hi guys, was doing some sub zero benching earlier and was having trouble with my 780ti KPE getting too cold with the dvi cable in causing it to bug out, so i put in a dvi to vga adapter and tried using a vga cable. started getting no signal on two different monitors, with multiple cables for each. the Q code on the motherboard was usually 34, sometimes AE. After a few hours of messing around with the cables and monitors trying to get a signal, i started getting Q code 00, i tried reseating the cpu and the ln2 pot. no luck, still got 00. took everything apart, cleaning off the insulation/grease from the 780ti and motherboard, washed a bit tonight, gonna wash them some more tomorrow and let them sit. anyone have any ideas on what could have gone wrong in the time it took me to switch from a dvi cable to dvi vga adapter? even the original monitor/cable set up at ambient temps of 30c on the cpu and gpu werent working.


Code 34 has been solved by some by reseating the vga cables, as for code 00 itcould be a ram issue, try 1 stick


----------



## Kimir

You late mate.
He let that all dry and got it all working now, he didn't come by here to tell but gave the good news in sub zero and KPE thread.


----------



## _REAPER_

Gentleman/ Ladies...

Can anyone shoot me over some screenshots of some bios settings for 4.5ghz ram at 1866mhz. I know it is BS to be asking but I am only home on leave for another 8 days and dont have much time to play OC.

I appreciate the help


----------



## inlandchris

Hi, see you are having trouble with raid and SSD's, so did I. I have 4 Samsung EVO 256gb and used it in a Raid0, all of them. I have 951 GB of space. I used the Intel 3gb ports only and did not install any mechanical hard drives! I got the version number in The Bios for the intel Raid creator and matched it (download from intel) the windows drivers for those ssd's (ver12.9.??). I installed win 7 ultimate. After the install and activation (berfore you do updates), I cloned the raid to a docked HDD in case I made a mistake, can always go back. The clone software is Acronis. I now hace IOPS =133,000 and windows loads in 20 seconds; after bios.
My big problem before was trying to manage HDD with the Raid SSD' BSOD every time, so now my HDD are docked with USB 3.0 and that is very fast with no conflicts with ASmedia ports; nothing on them. Dont try to use the 6gb/s ports, they wont speed up that much and there is only 2 of them. Dont split the 6 & 3 gb/s ports, use one or the other, not both. Windows 7 uses only one DLL (ntsokl.) for the drives so problems arise when using 2 different drivers (intel/ASmedia) the same time.
Try it out but make a clone copy each of the way through.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> You late mate.
> He let that all dry and got it all working now, he didn't come by here to tell but gave the good news in sub zero and KPE thread.


yeah - he just had the mobo all "goobered" up.


----------



## eduncan911

EDIT - SOLVED: I see the Amplifier only works in the FRONT AUDIO OUTPUT. I plugged in my headphones to a jury-rigged front audio jack and they are much MUCH louder.

That sucks, as all I use is read audio outputs. Anyone know how to activate it for the rear?

----

I'm not impressed with the analog headphone amplifier in regards to volume, as quoted in the specs:

SupremeFX Black - Amazing 120dB signal-to-noise ratio with integrated 600ohm-headphone amplifier

I have updated the Realtek audio drivers from Asus (I was previously only using the Windows 8.1 detected drivers which seemed sufficient for S/PDIF and 7.1 surround analog out). I can't tell a difference in audio level.

I have gone into the "Realtek HD Audio Manager" (I didn't know SupremeFX was Realtek, blah) and set what I thought what was required to activate the amplifier:

* At the bottom, clicked the green "front output" jack connected to the headphones, and configured it for headphones.
* Changing the *Amply Level* from Performance to Extreme has zero effect in volume level.

Am I missing something?

Thanks!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> I'm not impressed with the analog headphone amplifier in regards to volume, as quoted in the specs:
> 
> SupremeFX Black - Amazing 120dB signal-to-noise ratio with integrated 600ohm-headphone amplifier
> 
> I have updated the Realtek audio drivers from Asus (I was previously only using the Windows 8.1 detected drivers which seemed sufficient for S/PDIF and 7.1 surround analog out). I can't tell a difference in audio level.
> 
> I have gone into the "Realtek HD Audio Manager" (I didn't know SupremeFX was Realtek, blah) and set what I thought what was required to activate the amplifier:
> 
> * At the bottom, clicked the green "front output" jack connected to the headphones, and configured it for headphones.
> * Changing the *Amply Level* from Performance to Extreme has zero effect in volume level.
> 
> Am I missing something?
> 
> Thanks!


Works for me with my Sennheiser headphones, but difference is minimal. I think if you don't have 600 Ohm headphones(ie, normal headphones.







), it doesn't matter much.


----------



## eduncan911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eduncan911*
> 
> I'm not impressed with the analog headphone amplifier in regards to volume, as quoted in the specs:
> 
> SupremeFX Black - Amazing 120dB signal-to-noise ratio with integrated 600ohm-headphone amplifier
> 
> I have updated the Realtek audio drivers from Asus (I was previously only using the Windows 8.1 detected drivers which seemed sufficient for S/PDIF and 7.1 surround analog out). I can't tell a difference in audio level.
> 
> I have gone into the "Realtek HD Audio Manager" (I didn't know SupremeFX was Realtek, blah) and set what I thought what was required to activate the amplifier:
> 
> * At the bottom, clicked the green "front output" jack connected to the headphones, and configured it for headphones.
> * Changing the *Amply Level* from Performance to Extreme has zero effect in volume level.
> 
> Am I missing something?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Works for me with my Sennheiser headphones, but difference is minimal. I think if you don't have 600 Ohm headphones(ie, normal headphones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), it doesn't matter much.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I edited my post... I found out the amplifier works with the Front Audio output only - which really is ugly in my environment as all wires are in the back. I was using the rear output.

Maybe I can find a PCI-slot front-audio panel or something.

Astro A40s and it's a big difference compared to rear output.


----------



## cadaveca

Yeah, I think that Gigabyte AMP-UP audio uses the rear ports, and maybe an MSI GAMING board or two, but otherwise most of these audio boost techs use front panel only.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Since yesterday, I again the problem at boot.
> Cold boot, power off after several hours (no problem if the power remains ON) with the latest bios (so that was OK since weeks)
> 
> So to boot, I don't have the "dual boot" and the bios is reset to zero (such as CMOS) along with the date and time.
> It seems whatsoever related to an unstable OC, but my OC is stable with different bench and I doubt that the "check" of the R4BE more stressful than any bench
> 
> In addition, a friend tested with an unstable OC and no problem to boot with its R4BE.
> The problem not come from the motherboard?
> 
> No problem with the 0507 bios
> 
> Thanks for your help


Hello

These last 2 days, the PC has booted without problem with dual boot (power off during the night) and this morning, after I turned on the power and press the ON button on the PC, no dual boot, direct the POST and error message usual "CPU FAN error, etc ...)

Someone has an idea?

Thanks so much


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> These last 2 days, the PC has booted without problem with dual boot (power off during the night) and this morning, after I turned on the power and press the ON button on the PC, no dual boot, direct the POST and error message usual "CPU FAN error, etc ...)
> 
> Someone has an idea?
> 
> Thanks so much


I think perhaps resetting your settings to stock, and re-flashing BIOS may prove useful. Almost sounds to me like you have board MEI corruption, since it seems random settings are not being kept properly.

You'll need to see both ROG1 and ROG2 update in order for things to go back to normal, I think.

MEI corruption happens when pushing memory hard, it's like on shutdown something is saved wrongly, or some other weird stuff. Not sure exactly what it is, it is like UEFI time being reset...ASUS did release BIOS for this for some boards, so maybe they've squashed that problem now...or not.

Also, if you had AI Suite software installed, and removed it, try using ASUS's AI Suite removal tool to make sure no left overs are present.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I think perhaps resetting your settings to stock, and re-flashing BIOS may prove useful. Almost sounds to me like you have board MEI corruption, since it seems random settings are not being kept properly.
> 
> You'll need to see both ROG1 and ROG2 update in order for things to go back to normal, I think.
> 
> MEI corruption happens when pushing memory hard, it's like on shutdown something is saved wrongly, or some other weird stuff. Not sure exactly what it is, it is like UEFI time being reset...ASUS did release BIOS for this for some boards, so maybe they've squashed that problem now...or not.
> 
> Also, if you had AI Suite software installed, and removed it, try using ASUS's AI Suite removal tool to make sure no left overs are present.


Hello

I flash the bios there are 2 or 3 days. For the MEI driver, I have the latest available (10.0.20.1258) and the ME firmware, I am 8.1.52.1496 for several month

I never installed "AI Suite"

Besides, I never installed the driver AMDA00, it could be the problem?

Thank you for your help


----------



## cadaveca

Yeah, maybe, you really should have all drivers installed to say the least. If you have new MEI driver, best to have latest BIOS, too. Not sure which works best with which, but Raja did indicate that matching the right version of each together is important.

When I say re-flash BIOS, I mean flash back to older version, then flash up to newer. ROG1 and ROG2 MUST get updated to fix weird problems like your in my experience. Sometimes it just doesn't work out, though.

Best BIOS for this rig I am on right now is 0203..pre-public release. As far as I am concerned, new BIOSes are garbage. Could just be my config, though... and since you have same memory, 2666 C10...man...maybe you need 0203 BIOS?


----------



## Nichismo

finally!!



now I just need to decide whether to get the two chipset and mosfet blocks, or get the all in one monoblock.....


----------



## inlandchris

now I just need to decide whether to get the two chipset and mosfet blocks, or get the all in one monoblock.....

I did both EK monoblock and EK copper Supremacy and the copper supremacy cools better for the cpu. However, I left the monoblock on because I save from extra piping and looks better. The cpu is i7-3820 so it doesnt get as hot as the i7-4930k
Craig


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, maybe, you really should have all drivers installed to say the least. If you have new MEI driver, best to have latest BIOS, too. Not sure which works best with which, but Raja did indicate that matching the right version of each together is important.
> 
> When I say re-flash BIOS, I mean flash back to older version, then flash up to newer. ROG1 and ROG2 MUST get updated to fix weird problems like your in my experience. Sometimes it just doesn't work out, though.
> 
> Best BIOS for this rig I am on right now is 0203..pre-public release. As far as I am concerned, new BIOSes are garbage. Could just be my config, though... and since you have same memory, 2666 C10...man...maybe you need 0203 BIOS?


Ah ok for bios.

With the 0507, I never had any problems, it started with the 0602 (and updated ROG 1 and 2)
If this continues, I will return with 0507

Thanks for your help


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> now I just need to decide whether to get the two chipset and mosfet blocks, or get the all in one monoblock.....
> 
> I did both EK monoblock and EK copper Supremacy and the copper supremacy cools better for the cpu. However, I left the monoblock on because I save from extra piping and looks better. The cpu is i7-3820 so it doesnt get as hot as the i7-4930k
> Craig


Do you have exact temperature comparisons between EK-Supremacy and the Monoblock (CPU-temperatures)? Is it only a few degrees or is it noticeable?

I am using i7-3930K and on 1,23v on stock clock I max out at 58 degree Celsius on the hottest core after hours of gaming or prime95, this with EK-Supremacy Nickel Plexi Clean CSQ (probably cool poorly compared to your full copper).


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Ah ok for bios.
> 
> With the 0507, I never had any problems, it started with the 0602 (and updated ROG 1 and 2)
> If this continues, I will return with 0507
> 
> Thanks for your help


Might want to check out your USB devices as well, sometimes weird problems are nothing more than a funky USB device.


----------



## inlandchris

No, not exact temps but its not that much difference. My i7-3820 is running between 30-36 degrees C. With the room temp of 25C. With the mono-block, the Supremacy was below 30C...about. The i7-4930k is a different animal--very hot all the time but I believe its damaged and its still in the shop.
Craig
My water cooling system is different from most, I do the parallel system and not loops/serial. I have valves on each port to limit the flow on other parts and full flow to the cpu. I am also incorporating 2 360 radiators in a single circuit with 13 quiet corsair fans in my case. Having a mono-block eliminates 2 other blocks so the cpu is getting warmer water than before the mono-block. I also had a custom made manifold with 5 ports for this purpose but now, 2 of them are plugged.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Might want to check out your USB devices as well, sometimes weird problems are nothing more than a funky USB device.


You have advice for USB devices to check?

Thanks for your help


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> No, not exact temps but its not that much difference. My i7-3820 is running between 30-36 degrees C. With the room temp of 25C. With the mono-block, the Supremacy was below 30C...about. The i7-4930k is a different animal--very hot all the time but I believe its damaged and its still in the shop.
> Craig
> My water cooling system is different from most, I do the parallel system and not loops/serial. I have valves on each port to limit the flow on other parts and full flow to the cpu. I am also incorporating 2 360 radiators in a single circuit with 13 quiet corsair fans in my case. Having a mono-block eliminates 2 other blocks so the cpu is getting warmer water than before the mono-block. I also had a custom made manifold with 5 ports for this purpose but now, 2 of them are plugged.


please for the love of watercooling tell me that is not aluminum


----------



## inlandchris

Copper with chrome plating


----------



## asfgbdnf

Hello Boys,

I need your help here. Has anyone tried to install XP sp3 32bit (looks silly to use it nowadays, but still good for some 2d bench) on this mobo and succeed to enable the SATA AHCI mode? I failed and got BSOD code 0000X7B, only managed to make IDE mode work.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> No, not exact temps but its not that much difference. My i7-3820 is running between 30-36 degrees C. With the room temp of 25C. With the mono-block, the Supremacy was below 30C...about. The i7-4930k is a different animal--very hot all the time but I believe its damaged and its still in the shop.
> Craig
> My water cooling system is different from most, I do the parallel system and not loops/serial. I have valves on each port to limit the flow on other parts and full flow to the cpu. I am also incorporating 2 360 radiators in a single circuit with 13 quiet corsair fans in my case. Having a mono-block eliminates 2 other blocks so the cpu is getting warmer water than before the mono-block. I also had a custom made manifold with 5 ports for this purpose but now, 2 of them are plugged


That sounds very warm to me. Your 3820 runs "30-36 degrees" at idle? My 4930K idles around 25-30c, also around 25c room temp. I'm intrigued by your description of your system, but that temp sounds high to me.


----------



## Kimir

My 3930k IDLE temps are higher than my 4930k one (especially on one or two core), not really surprised here.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> That sounds very warm to me. Your 3820 runs "30-36 degrees" at idle? My 4930K idles around 25-30c, also around 25c room temp. I'm intrigued by your description of your system, but that temp sounds high to me.


Yes, its too warm at idle and an i7-4930k is even hotter. Your Ai suite 3 shows one temp, the other temp for the cpu is attaching the sensor as close to the cpu as possible; frame or clip which does not give the actual temps until the heat filters down to the mount. I think your temps are incorrect and maybe you are looking at the temps of the water.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Yes, its too warm at idle and an i7-4930k is even hotter. Your Ai suite 3 shows one temp, the other temp for the cpu is attaching the sensor as close to the cpu as possible; frame or clip which does not give the actual temps until the heat filters down to the mount. I think your temps are incorrect and maybe you are looking at the temps of the water.


No, I'm referring to the individual core temps in HWMonitor and CoreTemp, not AI Suite.

Granted, I don't know what kind of radiator & fan setup you're working with... I have 2x 360mm rad space + 12 fans running around 700rpm each. My cores idle around 25-30 (30c being the highest one usually), and of course get warmer under load.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> No, I'm referring to the individual core temps in HWMonitor and CoreTemp, not AI Suite.
> 
> Granted, I don't know what kind of radiator & fan setup you're working with... I have 2x 360mm rad space + 12 fans running around 700rpm each. My cores idle around 25-30 (30c being the highest one usually), and of course get warmer under load.


The HWMonitor is always low (26-28 C), actual temps from sensor (all cores) is what I believe and I use 2 of them, one for the mobo monitor and the other for Areo cool touch 2100. Both temps corroborate each other.
Your system is about the same as mine but I have one circuit cooling with 2 pumps in series running at 4300 rpm. I have 13 fans but the ones that count are the 6.
In 2-3 weeks, I will get the i7-4930k back from the shop (hopefully not the same one) and put into the mobo. Its a big deal because of the mono-block isn't easy to remove. An EK full copper supremacy would be nice and I have but wanted to try the mono-block. In my opinion, the mono-block isn't as good as the supremacy block is.
Oh, forgot, my system has the R9-280X-P ASUS Matrix GPU and I am running 5 sony 42" monitors in portrait view. This will make everything hotter including my GPU which is at 37 C in idle mode according to the HWMonitor; I cant get sensors on the gpu chip


----------



## chrisnyc75

Ah, ok, that explains it then. AI Suite's core package temp usually runs about 5c warmer than the individual cores if I'm remembering right, so that sounds about right.

Interesting setup, I'd love to see pics when you get it put back together (believe me, I know what a pain it is when you have to RMA a piece at the BOTTOM of your loop. I've had to deconstruct to send my mobo back so many times I finally just caved and bought a brand new one)


----------



## mbreslin

Can someone tell me around how long it took for the BE to come out after the original R4E? Also does that red rog thing in the middle come off at all (at least the part with the red wording)?

Thanks.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Can someone tell me around how long it took for the BE to come out after the original R4E? Also does that red rog thing in the middle come off at all (at least the part with the red wording)?
> 
> Thanks.


about two years, yes that REPUBLIC OF GAMERS thing comes off, its actually 100% useless other than looks, i take mine off for ln2 benching.


----------



## mbreslin

Well that's terrible news. I'll be looking for a black mb for x99, hopefully there are decent options around launch.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Can someone tell me around how long it took for the BE to come out after the original R4E? Also does that red rog thing in the middle come off at all (at least the part with the red wording)?
> 
> Thanks.


I bought my R4E in 2012 about 2 years after it came out, R4BE came out about Oct, 2014. The red "thing" in the middle of the mobo un-screws from the back side and then un-plugs from the mobo; removalble.
My original Rampage IV extreme failed first part of this year and forced to buy a new one; hope this mobo lasts longer.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Hello Boys,

I need your help here. Has anyone tried to install XP sp3 32bit (looks silly to use it nowadays, but still good for some 2d bench) on this mobo and succeed to enable the SATA AHCI mode? I failed and got BSOD code 0000X7B, only managed to make IDE mode work.


----------



## Errorist66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Hello Boys,
> 
> I need your help here. Has anyone tried to install XP sp3 32bit (looks silly to use it nowadays, but still good for some 2d bench) on this mobo and succeed to enable the SATA AHCI mode? I failed and got BSOD code 0000X7B, only managed to make IDE mode work.


it is easier if you set the harddrive to AHCI and then to a clean install of XP.


----------



## asfgbdnf

XP SP3 has no support for AHCI


----------



## pathfindercod

Some pics of my cards from my build...

Heres the build log if anyone is interested.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1496953/build-log-case-labs-mercury-s8-triple-threat

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/Build log 1/_DSC5410_zpsf6a8d7f5.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/Build log 1/_DSC5405_zpsa8158f5c.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/Build log 1/_DSC5406_zps518f2475.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/Build log 1/_DSC5408_zpsc741837c.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/Build log 1/_DSC5424_zpse08839bd.jpg.html


----------



## sixsigmamb

I would like to join. Here is the CPUZ link to my rigs validation.

http://valid.canardpc.com/3h3eac


----------



## Zimzoid




----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> XP SP3 has no support for AHCI


You might try to install windows xp (clean install) with the ahci drivers for windows on a floppy so when you install, put the 3rd party drivers in. Hope that helps


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Since yesterday, I again the problem at boot.
> Cold boot, power off after several hours (no problem if the power remains ON) with the latest bios (so that was OK since weeks)
> 
> So to boot, I don't have the "dual boot" and the bios is reset to zero (such as CMOS) along with the date and time.
> It seems whatsoever related to an unstable OC, but my OC is stable with different bench and I doubt that the "check" of the R4BE more stressful than any bench
> 
> In addition, a friend tested with an unstable OC and no problem to boot with its R4BE.
> The problem not come from the motherboard?
> 
> No problem with the 0507 bios
> 
> Thanks for your help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> It is not the battery, if I reflash with the 0507 bios, no problem.
> According to Raja, this is a problem OC unstable, but then I have a big doubt


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> These last 2 days, the PC has booted without problem with dual boot (power off during the night) and this morning, after I turned on the power and press the ON button on the PC, no dual boot, direct the POST and error message usual "CPU FAN error, etc ...)
> 
> Someone has an idea?
> 
> Thanks so much


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I flash the bios there are 2 or 3 days. For the MEI driver, I have the latest available (10.0.20.1258) and the ME firmware, I am 8.1.52.1496 for several month
> 
> I never installed "AI Suite"
> 
> Besides, I never installed the driver AMDA00, it could be the problem?
> 
> Thank you for your help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Ah ok for bios.
> 
> With the 0507, I never had any problems, it started with the 0602 (and updated ROG 1 and 2)
> If this continues, I will return with 0507
> 
> Thanks for your help


Hello

I tried again with the 0507 and I had the same problem this morning.








I lowered the OC (36x125 => 35x125)
I'll see if the problem is there

Or problem MEI driver/ME firmware?

Thanks for your help


----------



## sixsigmamb

I would like to join the club. I am proud Asus Rampage Extreme X79 Black Edition owner as well.

http://valid.x86.fr/3h3eac


----------



## WCRF_1710

Glad to see Asus staff working on new UEFI.

The first page of this thread shows 0602 as the last (also in my thoughts).

After that we have:

- 0603: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/RAMPAGE-IV-BLACK-EDITION-ASUS-0603.zip
- 0701: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/RAMPAGE-IV-BLACK-EDITION-ASUS-0701.zip
- and now 0801 beta that enables 128GB (8*16GB) support by IM ( Intelligent Memory ) memory modules: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/RAMPAGE-IV-BLACK-EDITION-ASUS-0801.zip

I didn't know about the existence of 128GB RAM modules...


----------



## [-erick-]

guys i got a question.

I am helping out a friend and have 4 vc but on the bios the 4th card is not detected. Only the 3 vc are detected.

all 4 cards are working (i swapped the 4th card with the 3rd just to see if the 4th card was at fault).

the toggle switch for the pcie lanes are "on" position.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[-erick-]*
> 
> guys i got a question.
> 
> I am helping out a friend and have 4 vc but on the bios the 4th card is not detected. Only the 3 vc are detected.
> 
> all 4 cards are working (i swapped the 4th card with the 3rd just to see if the 4th card was at fault).
> 
> the toggle switch for the pcie lanes are "on" position.


Have you tried just the fourth card in the fourth port? Or which port is it? Then you will know if it is the port.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[-erick-]*
> 
> guys i got a question.
> 
> I am helping out a friend and have 4 vc but on the bios the 4th card is not detected. Only the 3 vc are detected.
> 
> all 4 cards are working (i swapped the 4th card with the 3rd just to see if the 4th card was at fault).
> 
> the toggle switch for the pcie lanes are "on" position.


Do you have the 4 pin molex "EZ Plug" along the bottom of the board connected? It's there to provide the extra pci-e lane power needed when running multiple GPUs.



Also make sure you have connected both the 4 and 8 pin CPU plugs at the top and have a sufficient PSU capable of handling all the cards.

edit:

p. 1-48 in the manual:


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[-erick-]*
> 
> guys i got a question.
> 
> I am helping out a friend and have 4 vc but on the bios the 4th card is not detected. Only the 3 vc are detected.
> 
> all 4 cards are working (i swapped the 4th card with the 3rd just to see if the 4th card was at fault).
> 
> the toggle switch for the pcie lanes are "on" position.


Four cards can be a pain like that. Try reversing the SLI bridge. That makes a difference on my RIVE when using four gtx 580. One way - two cards detected, the other way, all four. I have no idea why.


----------



## Madmaxneo

If no one minds I'd like to join Please!
Here is a pic of my order from Amazon (currently the cheapest).

This is only the first step to this build.
Because of other commitments this powerhouse will not be completed for about another month and half (and then only if I am lucky).
I need help choosing the right case though. My current choice is the NZXT Phantom 630 Windowed Edition (Black) ATX Full Tower Case. It was recommended to me by a friend on Tom's Hardware (He also recommended the ARIVB). I need an SD card reader and this case had one. But I would like something with at least one more usable external bay. Meaning I would prefer 6 total with the OC panel and having to get a separate SD card reader. Any recommendations?
I will probably be going with the H100i cpu cooler, unless I can find a better deal on a better cooler.
I'm also currently being indecisive on which CPU to go with on this build. It was recommended to me by several people to go with the 3930k, as I really want to hit a stable 5 ghz. But the 4930k's numbers look good (one of the first page posts to this thread).
This is what I have planned on this build (some parts are already purchased):
Asus Rampage IV Black Ed MB
EVGA GTX 770 4gb Dual ACX cooler video card
EVGA 1000watt P2 PSU
32gb of the G.Skill Trident X Series (8GB strips) DDR3-2133 Memory
Asus Multi disc burner
LG 16x BLu Ray multi Disc writer with M disc support.
EDIT: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor

Bruce


----------



## supermiguel

how does this board compare with the extreme one?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> If no one minds I'd like to join Please!
> Here is a pic of my order from Amazon (currently the cheapest).
> 
> ARIVB.jpg 224k .jpg file
> 
> 
> This is only the first step to this build.
> Because of other commitments this powerhouse will not be completed for about another month and half (and then only if I am lucky).
> I need help choosing the right case though. My current choice is the NZXT Phantom 630 Windowed Edition (Black) ATX Full Tower Case. It was recommended to me by a friend on Tom's Hardware (He also recommended the ARIVB). I need an SD card reader and this case had one. But I would like something with at least one more usable external bay. Meaning I would prefer 6 total with the OC panel and having to get a separate SD card reader. Any recommendations?
> I will probably be going with the H100i cpu cooler, unless I can find a better deal on a better cooler.
> I'm also currently being indecisive on which CPU to go with on this build. It was recommended to me by several people to go with the 3930k, as I really want to hit a stable 5 ghz. But the 4930k's numbers look good (one of the first page posts to this thread).
> This is what I have planned on this build (some parts are already purchased):
> Asus Rampage IV Black Ed MB
> EVGA GTX 770 4gb Dual ACX cooler video card
> EVGA 1000watt P2 PSU
> 32gb of the G.Skill Trident X Series (8GB strips) DDR3-2133 Memory
> Asus Multi disc burner
> LG 16x BLu Ray multi Disc writer with M disc support.
> EDIT: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor
> 
> Bruce


welcome !

dont attach files, insert the photos with the little pic of a pic


----------



## TheGoose2013

Hi there. Is it normally ok to use the OC button located on the ROG panel?

On my 4930k it is running Turbo 3.9ghz, and the OC button had 2 levels 4.1 and 4.2 ghz.

The bios is standard settings i have only enabled the xmp profile for my memory.

The issue i have is when benchmarking with 3dmark Firestrike Extreme, when it gets to the psyics cpu part i get a bsod straight away when running at 4.2ghz. The error stated " unrecoverable hardware fault 0x00000124 "

This is the first time this has happened as normally the test runs ok at 4.2ghz.

My cpu is cooled by a h100i and temps do not exceed 55c on a hot day @ 4.2ghz

Thanks

Mike


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome !
> 
> dont attach files, insert the photos with the little pic of a pic


Apologies. Changed!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome !
> 
> dont attach files, insert the photos with the little pic of a pic


Apologies. Changed!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> 
> If no one minds I'd like to join Please!
> Here is a pic of my order from Amazon (currently the cheapest).
> 
> This is only the first step to this build.
> Because of other commitments this powerhouse will not be completed for about another month and half (and then only if I am lucky).
> I need help choosing the right case though. *My current choice is the NZXT Phantom 630 Windowed Edition (Black) ATX Full Tower Case*. It was recommended to me by a friend on Tom's Hardware (He also recommended the ARIVB). I need an SD card reader and this case had one. But I would like something with at least one more usable external bay. Meaning I would prefer 6 total with the OC panel and having to get a separate SD card reader. Any recommendations?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I will probably be going with the H100i cpu cooler, unless I can find a better deal on a better cooler.
> I'm also currently being indecisive on which CPU to go with on this build. It was recommended to me by several people to go with the 3930k, as I really want to hit a stable 5 ghz. But the 4930k's numbers look good (one of the first page posts to this thread).
> This is what I have planned on this build (some parts are already purchased):
> Asus Rampage IV Black Ed MB
> EVGA GTX 770 4gb Dual ACX cooler video card
> EVGA 1000watt P2 PSU
> 32gb of the G.Skill Trident X Series (8GB strips) DDR3-2133 Memory
> Asus Multi disc burner
> LG 16x BLu Ray multi Disc writer with M disc support.
> EDIT: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor
> 
> 
> Bruce


I've built a lot of stuff in NZXT cases over the years, . . . . .

The 630 and newer ones just do not inspire me at all any more, . . . . They look kinda neat at first, but it wears off in short order.

The 630 will be a little cramped looking with that big board, but more importantly, it's quite cheaply made. . . . . The R4BE deserves better









If you like that style, the 820, while higher priced, is a lot more case, and a lot better made and finished.

If you're an NZXT fan, the Switch 810 is still around and an incredible bang for the buck.

Otherwise, perhaps look at Corsair's offerings.

What you really might want to think about though, as far as case selection, is where you're going to place it at your work station . . .

If it's going desktop, be sure the accessory panel, headphones, USB, etc. are in front . .

If you're going to put it under the desk, then a top mounted panel will likely serve you better.

Darlene


----------



## =FIB=Goldberg

Can I join please


----------



## chrisnyc75

Any idea why my RIVBE would see my second gpu (in slot 4) as "PCI-E 3.0 x16 @ x8 1.1"? It sees the primary gpu as ""PCI-E 3.0 x16 @ x16 3.0", but for some reason it's only allocating 8 lanes for the secondary gpu.

I checked in the bios, pci-e is set to gen3, and I've applied the nvidia patch to force Windows to see PCI-E 3. The only other expansion slot item is my sound card, in slot 5, but that only takes 1 pci-e lane.

My former RIVE saw both cards at x16, so I don't think there's anything wrong with the gpu. I only just now got around to testing the gpu setup and noticed this as I've been focused on my cpu overclock in my limited spare time the past few weeks. Is there something different on the RIVBE that I'm missing that would cause this?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Any idea why my RIVBE would see my second gpu (in slot 4) as "PCI-E 3.0 x16 @ x8 1.1"? It sees the primary gpu as ""PCI-E 3.0 x16 @ x16 3.0", but for some reason it's only allocating 8 lanes for the secondary gpu.
> 
> I checked in the bios, pci-e is set to gen3, and I've applied the nvidia patch to force Windows to see PCI-E 3. The only other expansion slot item is my sound card, in slot 5, but that only takes 1 pci-e lane.
> 
> My former RIVE saw both cards at x16, so I don't think there's anything wrong with the gpu. I only just now got around to testing the gpu setup and noticed this as I've been focused on my cpu overclock in my limited spare time the past few weeks. Is there something different on the RIVBE that I'm missing that would cause this?


Looks like the second card is in idle mode. Get some load on it and it'll ramp up. Check to see if sli is enabled. Play a game or use a benchmark that you know uses sli configs.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Looks like the second card is in idle mode. Get some load on it and it'll ramp up. Check to see if sli is enabled. Play a game or use a benchmark that you know uses sli configs.


SLI is enabled; it's not just in idle mode. GPU-Z is reporting it at x8 both at idle and load (I used Heaven to test last night, checked gpu-z while it was running). The CLOCK ramps up under load, but the pci-e lanes allocated don't -- is the pci-e lane allocation supposed to change with activity? Not sure I've ever seen that before? With 2xSLI, I've always just seen it default to x16/x16 as long as the cards are in the right pcie slots (in this case, 1 & 4)


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Take the card out, clean the pci pins, blow out the pci slot, put the card back in.

Switch the cards around.

Reinstall the drivers.

Things to try.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Take the card out, clean the pci pins, blow out the pci slot, put the card back in.
> 
> Switch the cards around.
> 
> Reinstall the drivers.
> 
> Things to try.


Thanks. Yeah, I know I can try all those things -- I was hoping there was some setting or function on the Black that I was overlooking. The absolute last thing on earth that I want to do is break apart my loop yet again to pull the cards out and troubleshoot. I'll try just pulling them out and re-seating them tonight. If that doesn't work, I'll probably just learn to live with it at x16/x8 until the next time I drain the system.

Thanks


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Thanks. Yeah, I know I can try all those things -- I was hoping there was some setting or function on the Black that I was overlooking. The absolute last thing on earth that I want to do is break apart my loop yet again to pull the cards out and troubleshoot. I'll try just pulling them out and re-seating them tonight. If that doesn't work, I'll probably just learn to live with it at x16/x8 until the next time I drain the system.
> 
> Thanks


Turn off the pci-E switch to the good card/slot, and go off of the problem card/slot with your monitor.

See if you get 16x pci-E 3.0 on load. Wonder if a faulty sli bridge would cause this?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Ok, so I re-seated both cards (they're attached by the waterblock SLI bridge), no change -- the secondary gpu still registers @ x8 3.0.

I disabled the primary card and connected my monitor to the secondary card and then booted, still @ x8 3.0.

I updated the drivers, and after uninstalling the old driver package and rebooting, the Device Manager displayed an error message on the secondary device... something about "unable to load the driver that the device detects" (I forget the exact wording). Both gpu's were loaded as "Microsoft Basic Display Adapter". Anyway, after installing the new updated nvidia drivers, both devices are loaded properly and working just fine, but the secondary gpu still registers @ x8 3.0 (in both gpu-z and in the uefi bios)

I don't know what could cause this, neither card has ever had any problem before, and they both work just fine now except that the secondary one is only registering 8 lanes. What would cause the system to only allocate 8 pci lanes for a x16 card when there are sufficient lanes still available (other than the card's seating)?


----------



## reev3r

I am having the same issue myself with a 4820K and two GTX 670 FTW's... However, mine were only running @PCIe 2.0 until after a BIOS update, are any of the peripherals consuming 3.0 lanes? Things such as the SATA controllers, the WI-FI/Bluetooth, etc. I have known of other boards that, when certain peripherals were enabled it would consume PCIe lanes... Anybody have info on this?

Better still, ANYBODY out there running x16/x16?

Raja is always a good resource, maybe he'll have the time to chime in


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've built a lot of stuff in NZXT cases over the years, . . . . .
> 
> The 630 and newer ones just do not inspire me at all any more, . . . . They look kinda neat at first, but it wears off in short order.
> 
> The 630 will be a little cramped looking with that big board, but more importantly, it's quite cheaply made. . . . . The R4BE deserves better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you like that style, the 820, while higher priced, is a lot more case, and a lot better made and finished.
> 
> If you're an NZXT fan, the Switch 810 is still around and an incredible bang for the buck.
> 
> Otherwise, perhaps look at Corsair's offerings.
> 
> What you really might want to think about though, as far as case selection, is where you're going to place it at your work station . . .
> 
> If it's going desktop, be sure the accessory panel, headphones, USB, etc. are in front . .
> 
> If you're going to put it under the desk, then a top mounted panel will likely serve you better.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene,
I really like the style of both those cases (much more so the Switch 810) but I don't see an SD card slot and it only has 4 external bays.While the 820 has an SD card reader and the changeable lighting, it is a bit pricey....hmmm, this is going in my PC cases to choose from wishlist.
A side window to show off my RIVE is almost essential, and a top mounted panel would be what I need but I can go with a front panel if need be.
Here are some cases I have been looking at that almost meet my criteria:
BitFenix ATX Full Tower Case, White BFC-SNX-500-WWW1-RP (I wish it came in black and not white)
Fractal Design Arc XL High Airflow Full Tower Case - Black FD-CA-ARC-XL-BL-W (is a nice case and even has the top mounted panel, but only has 4 bays)
Thermaltake Chaser A71 Full Tower Case VP400M1W2N (It's inexpensive and I sort of like the blue accents)
Phanteks Enthoo Series Primo Aluminum ATX Ultimate Full Tower Computer Case PH-ES813P_BL ( I really like how this case looks, but it is more expensive than the NZXT 820)
SENTEY ARVINA Blue GS-6400B Gaming Case (I really like the blue LED's, it's the least expensive, and it has the SD card reader. But it looks cheap)
Oh and I did kind of like the NZXT PHAN TOM ATX Full Towe r Case , Blac k....
The 630 case was recommended by a friend who knew my requirements and says it is a good case...but I am open to suggestions as I have heard it was flimsy). I do want to use water cooling so it has to fit that in the case. I am not sure if I will be going with the H105i or not. I don't have much to go on when it comes to water cooling. The 630 was designed with water cooling in mind and will fit two of the Kraken coolers.

Bruce


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Pls add me to the list ..... HOMECINEMA-PC











BE with 4930k installed with TRI classies


4930k #3351B547 Costa Rica

http://valid.x86.fr/vf2t13









3970x Costa Rica

http://valid.x86.fr/2v3lab









And to keep my BE cooler I added a 1Hp chiller to the mix.....


----------



## cadaveca

Sick. Nice rig and set-up, man, welcome to the club!

what voltage you shoving through the 3970?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Sick. Nice rig and set-up, man, welcome to the club!
> 
> what voltage you shoving through the 3970?


Thanks man









About 1.46vc . Had a 3930k that would boot in and game @[email protected] with 2400 on da mem


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGoose2013*
> 
> Hi there. Is it normally ok to use the OC button located on the ROG panel?
> 
> On my 4930k it is running Turbo 3.9ghz, and the OC button had 2 levels 4.1 and 4.2 ghz.
> 
> The bios is standard settings i have only enabled the xmp profile for my memory.
> 
> The issue i have is when benchmarking with 3dmark Firestrike Extreme, when it gets to the psyics cpu part i get a bsod straight away when running at 4.2ghz. The error stated " unrecoverable hardware fault" with no other code.
> 
> This is the first time this has happened as normally the test runs ok at 4.2ghz.
> 
> My cpu is cooled by a h100i and temps do not exceed 55c on a hot day @ 4.2ghz
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Mike


i wouldnt oc that way., cookie cutter ocs ( one size fits all ) are generally overvolted
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome !
> 
> dont attach files, insert the photos with the little pic of a pic
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies. Changed!
Click to expand...

no need just helping ! i wont dl them myself, too paranoid !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Pls add me to the list ..... HOMECINEMA-PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BE with 4930k installed with TRI classies
> 
> 
> 4930k #3351B547 Costa Rica
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/vf2t13
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3970x Costa Rica
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/2v3lab
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And to keep my BE cooler I added a 1Hp chiller to the mix.....


was wondering when you would show up !! welcome !


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Thanks mate








Been multitasking , benching 3 diff platforms Sandybee , ivybee x97 haswell refresh and stuff . Bought a low mile IS 300 Lexus . Been modding that as well and finally got around to 3x1 Eyefinity setup 7680x1440p


----------



## Mega Man

i been watching







ps welcome to eyefinity awesomeness


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Did a 3hr sess on one of my favorites Ol' Crysis 3 . Hex @ [email protected] . 290's Tess off and runnin at 1100 stock mem and volts AVG 90fps ....


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am having the same issue myself with a 4820K and two GTX 670 FTW's... However, mine were only running @PCIe 2.0 until after a BIOS update, are any of the peripherals consuming 3.0 lanes? Things such as the SATA controllers, the WI-FI/Bluetooth, etc. I have known of other boards that, when certain peripherals were enabled it would consume PCIe lanes... Anybody have info on this?
> 
> Better still, ANYBODY out there running x16/x16?
> 
> Raja is always a good resource, maybe he'll have the time to chime in


No, nothing else in my build consumes pci-e lanes except the sound card, which is pcie-e 1.0 x1.

Both cards got x16 lanes on my RIVE, but since switching to the RIVBE for some reason the secondary one is stuck at x8. At least it's running pci-e 3.0 x8, so I don't think there's much of a performance hit, but it's annoying me more than anything else. I didn't spend hundreds of dollars on a mobo upgrade to make do with a "small performance reduction." lol

I already tried F5'ing back to optimized defaults in case something in my oc was causing the problem, but the card still registered at x8. Tonight I'll try disabling bluetooth, the ASmedia sata controllers, etc and see if I can find anything that's conflicting with it. Under normal circumstances I'd swap the secondary card into the primary slot so I could figure out if it's the pci-e slot that isn't allocated properly or the card that's running below spec, but that's really labor intensive in a watercooled system. :\


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Pls add me to the list ..... HOMECINEMA-PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4930k #3351B547 Costa Rica
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/vf2t13
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3970x Costa Rica
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/2v3lab


Whoa, oc party at homecinema's house!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Whoa, oc party at homecinema's house!


Its been like that for nearly 2 years mate








But the last several weeks I had a LOT more time to branch out a bit and try different platforms


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Welcome to the club HOMECINEMA-PC!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Welcome to the club HOMECINEMA-PC!


Why tanks a lot









Good to see that your still kickin around


----------



## reev3r

Well, given that we are both experiencing the exact same issue, I suspect that it is not related to swapping the slots that the cards are in. Although, with computers, you never REALLY know until you try... I may give it a shot layer to see though...

When I asked about devices consuming PCIe lanes, I was referring to the onboard devices, I should have been more specific, on previous boards I have owned if you enabled something, say a Bluetooth adapter, it would only allow a PCIe slot to run in a certain mode. I am now wondering if some of the onboard devices are using some of the CPU's PCIe 3.0 lanes instead of the chipset lanes...

Surely someone out there knows what is up... Again, if you happen to read this and are running SLI in x16/x16 please reply, that way we at least know it is possible... Thanks!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Well, given that we are both experiencing the exact same issue, I suspect that it is not related to swapping the slots that the cards are in. Although, with computers, you never REALLY know until you try... I may give it a shot layer to see though...
> 
> When I asked about devices consuming PCIe lanes, I was referring to the onboard devices, I should have been more specific, on previous boards I have owned if you enabled something, say a Bluetooth adapter, it would only allow a PCIe slot to run in a certain mode. I am now wondering if some of the onboard devices are using some of the CPU's PCIe 3.0 lanes instead of the chipset lanes...
> 
> Surely someone out there knows what is up... Again, if you happen to read this and are running SLI in x16/x16 please reply, that way we at least know it is possible... Thanks!


I'm pretty sure I gave you some advice back when to check the cpu socket for bent pins, or obstructed pins with paste or lint. Even just reseating cpu can get the pci-E lanes back to full gain.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I gave you some advice back when to check the cpu socket for bent pins, or obstructed pins with paste or lint. Even just reseating cpu can get the pci-E lanes back to full gain.


You did, and it's good advice..... but unfortunately doing that entails draining my watercooling loop, disassembling it, pulling out the gpu apparatus, disconnecting & removing the processor block, remounting the cpu & gpu's, reassembling the block, refilling the loop, leak testing the loop, and finally rewiring the system. Which I've already done 5 times in the past year and just finished doing not even a month ago when I switched out my RIVE for a RIVBE.

And all of which could quite possibly turn out to be ineffective if I booted up after all that and was still running x16/x8. I'm not going to that length until next time I upgrade or do maintenance. If I can't find something else that is causing the problem, i'll just live with x16/x8 for awhile.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Pls add me to the list ..... HOMECINEMA-PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BE with 4930k installed with TRI classies
> 
> 
> 4930k #3351B547 Costa Rica
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/vf2t13
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3970x Costa Rica
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/2v3lab
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And to keep my BE cooler I added a 1Hp chiller to the mix.....


yo HCPC! Welcome!! Chiller helps, doesn't it?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I gave you some advice back when to check the cpu socket for bent pins, or obstructed pins with paste or lint. Even just reseating cpu can get the pci-E lanes back to full gain.


Although I do not recall this advice, I have no doubt that you did give it, that being said, in an unrelated step I have removed and reseated my CPU, RAM, both GPU's, and my sound card... I always clean the pins of everything upon removal and replacement, as I have too many times experienced dust or debris causing a problem after replacing a component. Although, due to the fact that one of my graphics cards is liquid cooled and the other is not, I was unable to swap them, but I could certainly do a temporary swap if you feel it necessary...


----------



## Themorganlett

Can I join now?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Although I do not recall this advice, I have no doubt that you did give it, that being said, in an unrelated step I have removed and reseated my CPU, RAM, both GPU's, and my sound card... I always clean the pins of everything upon removal and replacement, as I have too many times experienced dust or debris causing a problem after replacing a component. Although, due to the fact that one of my graphics cards is liquid cooled and the other is not, I was unable to swap them, but I could certainly do a temporary swap if you feel it necessary...


Fair enough...

Here is the post I was referring to:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/8560#post_22458791


----------



## reev3r

Interesting, I did not get any notification for either of those posts, yours or the fella below yours. Although, I have been noticing that I get notifications for some things and not others, even things of the same type. Not sure what it is. Anyhow, I Have done a thorough cleaning of everything, as stated. I do find it odd that both of us are experiencing the same issue regarding our SLI configuration, with the bottom card running in x8 mode...

Although, I should have asked,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Ok, so I re-seated both cards (they're attached by the waterblock SLI bridge), no change -- the secondary gpu still registers @ x8 3.0.
> 
> I disabled the primary card and connected my monitor to the secondary card and then booted, still @ x8 3.0.
> 
> I updated the drivers, and after uninstalling the old driver package and rebooting, the Device Manager displayed an error message on the secondary device... something about "unable to load the driver that the device detects" (I forget the exact wording). Both gpu's were loaded as "Microsoft Basic Display Adapter". Anyway, after installing the new updated nvidia drivers, both devices are loaded properly and working just fine, but the secondary gpu still registers @ x8 3.0 (in both gpu-z and in the uefi bios)
> 
> I don't know what could cause this, neither card has ever had any problem before, and they both work just fine now except that the secondary one is only registering 8 lanes. What would cause the system to only allocate 8 pci lanes for a x16 card when there are sufficient lanes still available (other than the card's seating)?


Hey, I meant to ask before, are you certain your card is in the correct x16 slot? If you look closely there are only two slots wired for x16 operation, the other ones are wired for x8 operation, and if your card is in one of those slots it would explain the problem. Check your manual, or closely inspect the slots for pins on the second half of the slot, you can easily identify them with a close look and good lighting.


----------



## reev3r

As for the slot configuration, the slots are wired as follows:

X16
none
X8
X1
X16
X1
X8

So if you make sure it is inserted into the fourth slot that will at least eliminate the possibility that it is in a x8 wired slot.

Let me know what you find...


----------



## Ajay57

I would say 1 + 3 = x 16 on both, as i have 2 + 4 Slots switched off using the small onboard switches!!









There is a long process you can try with installing 1 GPU @ a time the first been in next to the CPU in slot No 1, and installing drivers.

Then reboot and then power down to add the second GPU which windows should detect and install drivers to that, once completed.

You power down again to Install the SLI Bridge, then reboot up, and test everything with the RENDER TEST in GPU-Z to see what the X's is showing!!

Hopefully the should be both X16 @ that stage, yes its a lot of work, but it does sometimes cure the problems with PCI-E Slots and GPU Cards.









*P.S. I hope my old memory serves me well enough lol!!*

Respectfully,

AJ.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajay57*
> 
> I would say 1 + 3 = x 16 on both, as i have 2 + 4 Slots switched off using the small onboard switches!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a long process you can try with installing 1 GPU @ a time the first been in next to the CPU in slot No 1, and installing drivers.
> 
> Then reboot and then power down to add the second GPU which windows should detect and install drivers to that, once completed.
> 
> You power down again to Install the SLI Bridge, then reboot up, and test everything with the RENDER TEST in GPU-Z to see what the X's is showing!!
> 
> Hopefully the should be both X16 @ that stage, yes its a lot of work, but it does sometimes cure the problems with PCI-E Slots and GPU Cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *P.S. I hope my old memory serves me well enough lol!!*
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> AJ.


This is good advice, I agree!

Sucks when things don't go right, it could be a 100 different things.


----------



## TheGoose2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i wouldnt oc that way., cookie cutter ocs ( one size fits all ) are generally overvolted
> no need just helping ! i wont dl them myself, too paranoid !
> was wondering when you would show up !! welcome !


I used to be able to run oc @4.2 just by pressing this button a couple of times on the Rog Panel, without adjusting anything else. But now for some reason im getting the bsod pretty much straight away after loading FS Extreme, even before I see any graphics I get BSOD Uncorrectable Hardware Error 0x00000124.

I am a little concerned that I may have caused some damage by doing this to either the mboard, cpu or memory. If I have then this is just stupid, as surely by pressing this OC button you shouldnt be able to cause damage this way.

I hope someone can put my mind at rest regarding this, and help me with some settings for a stable 4.2ghz as and when I need it via a profile of some kind.

I have freshly re-installed windows, and Im running the H100i and temps are ok.

Thanks

Mike


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yo HCPC! Welcome!! Chiller helps, doesn't it?


Hey there dude








Mine is bigger than yours









The one on the left is the HC - 150 1/10th of a HP while the biggun is a HC-1000a 1 hp . And yes it will drop to 3c


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGoose2013*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i wouldnt oc that way., cookie cutter ocs ( one size fits all ) are generally overvolted
> no need just helping ! i wont dl them myself, too paranoid !
> was wondering when you would show up !! welcome !
> 
> 
> 
> I used to be able to run oc @4.2 just by pressing this button a couple of times on the Rog Panel, without adjusting anything else. But now for some reason im getting the bsod pretty much straight away after loading FS Extreme, even before I see any graphics I get BSOD Uncorrectable Hardware Error 0x00000124.
> 
> I am a little concerned that I may have caused some damage by doing this to either the mboard, cpu or memory. If I have then this is just stupid, as surely by pressing this OC button you shouldnt be able to cause damage this way.
> 
> I hope someone can put my mind at rest regarding this, and help me with some settings for a stable 4.2ghz as and when I need it via a profile of some kind.
> 
> I have freshly re-installed windows, and Im running the H100i and temps are ok.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Mike
Click to expand...

From what i have read 49xx are known to have "break in periods" that after which require more voltages, at least to me it seems common ish


----------



## TheGoose2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> From what i have read 49xx are known to have "break in periods" that after which require more voltages, at least to me it seems common ish


Hi Mega Man,

I am not having much luck! In the AI Suite I have tryed a manual voltage of 1.35v, and 4.2ghz. and as soon as I set that, the system froze!

Ive also tried following another guide in the bios, but my system hung and i had to reset the bios.

Pfft.

I also adjusted LLC to Medium, but still no joy.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Hey there dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is bigger than yours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one on the left is the HC - 150 1/10th of a HP while the biggun is a HC-1000a 1 hp . And yes it will drop to 3c


3C should be cold enough...







A 1hp aquarium chiller







. Is the national aquarium looking for theirs?

If I need to, I will use a 20' copper coil (wort cooler if you brew your own







) in an ice/salt bucket. Have a few around.


----------



## 113802

I plugged a USB cable into my computer today while it was off and it randomly turned on. Strange thing is that only 4 USB 3.0 ports trigger my computer to turn on. The highest 4 USB ports and this only happens when Fast Boot is enabled in Windows 8







This is the first time I plugged anything into these ports.


----------



## Madmaxneo

On some motherboards there is an option in the bios that if enabled will cause the computer to wake up or turn on in some cases. I don't know if the RIVE has that setting but you should check. I am unable to check as of yet because it will be sometime before I am able to get all the parts and assemble this beast.

Which brings me to a dilema:
Which cpu do you guys recommend that I could 5ghz with? Right now I am pointed at the 3930k, but on the first page of this group LunaP posted some numbers for a 4930k with a couple at 5.8ghz +. The 4930k is only about $20 - $30 more than the 3930k. When I had asked this question on another forum everyone recommended the 3930k to hit 5ghz with. What do you guys recommend?

Bruce


----------



## alancsalt

Anyone much higher than 5.15 GHz either uses extreme cooling or lives in the arctic circle...

If it has to be a hexacore, then 5GHz is easier on a 3930K, but not for 24/7. That would be more like around 4.5GHz.

On a 4930K it would normally be harder to hit 5GHz, but a 4930K does more work per clock cycle, so a 4930K at say 4.8GHz probably does just as much work as a 3930K at 5GHz... These higher clocks would mostly be just for benchmarking, not everyday use..

If you can settle for a quad core, then a 3820 can probly hit 5GHz easier than a hexacore can, but wouldn't do as much work at that clock as a hexy.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 3C should be cold enough...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 1hp aquarium chiller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . *Is the national aquarium looking for theirs?*
> 
> If I need to, I will use a 20' copper coil (wort cooler if you brew your own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) in an ice/salt bucket. Have a few around.










I paid CASH buddy


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Anyone much higher than 5.15 GHz either uses extreme cooling or lives in the arctic circle...
> 
> If it has to be a hexacore, then 5GHz is easier on a 3930K, but not for 24/7. That would be more like around 4.5GHz.
> 
> On a 4930K it would normally be harder to hit 5GHz, but a 4930K does more work per clock cycle, so a 4930K at say 4.8GHz probably does just as much work as a 3930K at 5GHz... These higher clocks would mostly be just for benchmarking, not everyday use..
> 
> If you can settle for a quad core, then a 3820 can probly hit 5GHz easier than a hexacore can, but wouldn't do as much work at that clock as a hexy.


I was originally going with a quad core, then I mentioned the 5 ghz goal, that's when everyone said to go with the 3930k. For some reason most recommended I stay away from Sandy bridge. When I compared the two chips on cpuboss the 4930k came out on top in all comparisons. My question would be, why not the 4930k?
From what I can gather from tech news is that many game companies are promising better use of all cores in the hexa core chips. So it might be best to stick with a "hexy".
As a side note I was thinking of eventually going with extreme cooling, but my limit would be that it would all have to fit in the case. I was looking at the awesome (but pricey) Case Labs cases for such a thing. But all that would have to wait until next year.

Bruce


----------



## Spike2135




----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anyone know if it is any point on having the inlet at the right G 1/4" thread on the Monoblock? The routing of my loop would have been so much easier if I could have used that hole as an outlet instead of an inlet.


----------



## alancsalt

Madmaxneo:

When I say extreme cooling I'm talking liquid nitrogen and dry ice, or cascade and phase cooling. With liquid nitrogen and dry ice, no case but maybe a test bench. Cascade and phase... well Little Devil and some individuals do make in-case phase units, but you still have to insulate and install the hardware of your choice.

Sandy doesn't like extreme cold... anything after minus 40 is a bit wasted with Sandy. Not so with Sandy-E.

You are talking benchmarking, not productivity or games with 5GHz. IMHO. For games you would more likely be stable enough around 4.5 GHz.

Nothing wrong with a 4930K. Your friends saying 3930K would be down to you saying "5GHz", rather than some other measure of performance.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> I plugged a USB cable into my computer today while it was off and it randomly turned on. Strange thing is that only 4 USB 3.0 ports trigger my computer to turn on. The highest 4 USB ports and this only happens when Fast Boot is enabled in Windows 8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I plugged anything into these ports.


This is relatively normal behavior. Pretty much every computer I have built will do this with some USB device I own or another. My guess is that it somehow receives the same trigger as it would receive from a sleep command, or something akin to that...


----------



## Shadowarez

It's also built into ai suite 3 if enabled it will do this as well Ai Charger.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paid CASH buddy


LOL. they still take cash in Australia?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> LOL. they still take cash in Australia?


Cash got me 75 bucks off so answer is yes funny guy


----------



## Jpmboy

lol. yep - my preferred way to pay. Sensitive guy.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Since yesterday, I again the problem at boot.
> Cold boot, power off after several hours (no problem if the power remains ON) with the latest bios (so that was OK since weeks)
> 
> So to boot, I don't have the "dual boot" and the bios is reset to zero (such as CMOS) along with the date and time.
> It seems whatsoever related to an unstable OC, but my OC is stable with different bench and I doubt that the "check" of the R4BE more stressful than any bench
> 
> In addition, a friend tested with an unstable OC and no problem to boot with its R4BE.
> The problem not come from the motherboard?
> 
> No problem with the 0507 bios
> 
> Thanks for your help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> It is not the battery, if I reflash with the 0507 bios, no problem.
> According to Raja, this is a problem OC unstable, but then I have a big doubt


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> These last 2 days, the PC has booted without problem with dual boot (power off during the night) and this morning, after I turned on the power and press the ON button on the PC, no dual boot, direct the POST and error message usual "CPU FAN error, etc ...)
> 
> Someone has an idea?
> 
> Thanks so much


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I flash the bios there are 2 or 3 days. For the MEI driver, I have the latest available (10.0.20.1258) and the ME firmware, I am 8.1.52.1496 for several month
> 
> I never installed "AI Suite"
> 
> Besides, I never installed the driver AMDA00, it could be the problem?
> 
> Thank you for your help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Ah ok for bios.
> 
> With the 0507, I never had any problems, it started with the 0602 (and updated ROG 1 and 2)
> If this continues, I will return with 0507
> 
> Thanks for your help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I tried again with the 0507 and I had the same problem this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I lowered the OC (36x125 => 35x125)
> I'll see if the problem is there
> 
> Or problem MEI driver/ME firmware?
> 
> Thanks for your help


Hello

I have the same problem in "reducing" the OC (but even vcore, etc ....)
It will be able to be the motherboard that has a default?

Thanks for your help


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> lol. yep - my preferred way to pay. Sensitive guy.


New age sensitive guy you mean


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> New age sensitive guy you mean


Oh so your EMO then....lol


----------



## alancsalt

The anime is strong in this one.....


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I have the same problem in "reducing" the OC (but even vcore, etc ....)
> It will be able to be the motherboard that has a default?
> 
> Thanks for your help


If it runs fine @ stock, but not OC, then no, the board is fine. BCLK OC can affect USB and other devices, so do keep that in mind. If you have wireless/Bluetooth enabled, disable them. That's what I had to do to get 125 BCLK 100% stable running 2666 mem. It's been...sheesh...3-4 months of constant up time I've got now @ 4500cpu/2666mem/125bclk, but just one of my 5 chips can do it.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If it runs fine @ stock, but not OC, then no, the board is fine. BCLK OC can affect USB and other devices, so do keep that in mind. If you have wireless/Bluetooth enabled, disable them. That's what I had to do to get 125 BCLK 100% stable running 2666 mem. It's been...sheesh...3-4 months of constant up time I've got now @ 4500cpu/2666mem/125bclk, but just one of my 5 chips can do it.


I will test @ stock and wireless/Bluetooth is disabled

For me, it is 36x125 and ram 2666 C10

Thanks fir your help


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> New age sensitive guy you mean


there ya go. Newage.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> I will test @ stock and wireless/Bluetooth is disabled
> 
> For me, it is 36x125 and ram 2666 C10
> 
> Thanks fir your help


You can try 2133 mode3-9-11-10-27-nearer-7-171-auto-8-8-40-6-8 @ 1.5V with that memory @ 100 BCLK. Maybe that's easier for your CPU, bandwidth is about 60k instead of 70k @ 2666 (using aida64 memory test), minor difference.

I use BIOS 0208, other versions don't work so well with this combo for me. I run 180% CPU current and "very high" loadline, most other voltages except vCPU are manually forced to CPU's stock voltage. Timings are set manually, "mode3" and "nearer" chosen.:





if it doesn't boot, what code is shown on POST display on the board? Might help pin-point the problematic area.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You can try 2133 mode3-9-11-10-27-nearer-7-171-auto-8-8-40-6-8 @ 1.5V with that memory @ 100 BCLK. Maybe that's easier for your CPU, bandwidth is about 60k instead of 70k @ 2666 (using aida64 memory test), minor difference.
> 
> I use BIOS 0208, other versions don't work so well with this combo for me. I run 180% CPU current and "very high" loadline, most other voltages except vCPU are manually forced to CPU's stock voltage. Timings are set manually, "mode3" and "nearer" chosen.:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if it doesn't boot, what code is shown on POST display on the board? Might help pin-point the problematic area.


For me, it's

Code:



Code:


LN2 Mode                                     Disable

All Core Target CPU Turbo-Mode Speed :          4500MHz
Target DRAM Speed :                             2666MHz

Ai Overclock Tuner                              [Manual]
CPU Level Up                                    [Disabled]
  BCLK Frequency                                [125.000]
  CPU Strap                                     [AUTO]
  ClockGen Full Reset                           [Enabled]
Turbo Ratio                                     [By All Cores]
By All Cores                                    [36]
Internal PLL Overvoltage                        [Enabled]
Memory Frequency                                [DDR3-2666MHz]
Xtreme Tweaking                                 [Disabled]
EPU Power Saving Mode                           [Disabled]

===============================================================

>DRAM Timing Control

 Rampage Tweak                          [Auto]

 Primary Timings                        CHA CHB CHC CHD 
 DRAM CAS# Latency                      10   
 DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay                12  
 DRAM RAS# PRE Time                     12  
 DRAM RAS# ACT Time                     31  
 DRAM COMMAND Mode                      1   
 Latency Boundary                       [Auto]

===============================================================

>DIGI+ Power Control

 CPU VCore
 CPU Load-line Calibration                      [High]
 CPU Current Capability                         [130%]
 CPU Voltage Frequency                          [AUTO]
 VRM Over Temperature Protection                [Auto]
 CPU Power Duty Control                         [T.Probe]
 Vcore MOS volt. Control                        [Auto]
 CPU Power Phase Control                        [Extreme]
 CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage                      [Auto]

 CPU VSA
 VCCSA Load-line Calibration                    [REGULAR]
 VCCSA Current Capability                       [100%]
 VCCSA Fixed Frequency                          [300]
 CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage                      [Auto]

 CPU VTT
 CPU VTT Switching Freq                         [Auto]
 CPU VTT Over-Current Protection                [Auto]

 DRAM Voltage
 DRAM-AB Current Capability                     [100%]
 DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency                      [Manual]
 DRAM-AB Fixed Frequency Mode                   [300]
 DRAM-AB Power Phase Control                    [Extreme]
 DRAM-CD Current Capability                     [100%]
 DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency                      [Auto]
 DRAM-CD Fixed Frequency Mode                   [300]
 DRAM-CD Power Phase Control                    [Auto]

 PCH 1.1V
 PCH 1.1V Switching Freq                        [Auto]

===============================================================

>CPU Performance Settings

 CPU Ratio                                      [Auto]
 Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology            [Enabled]
 Turbo Mode                                     [Enabled]
 --------------------------------------------------------
 Turbo Mode Parameters
 Power Limit Control                            [Auto]

===============================================================

Extreme OV                                      [Disabled]
BCLK Skew                                       [Auto]
CPU VCORE Voltage                    1.280V     [Manual Mode]
  CPU VCORE Manual Voltage                      [1.265]
VTT CPU Voltage                      1.10xV     [1.10]
2nd VTTCPU Voltage                   1.046V     [Auto]
CPU VCCSA Voltage                    1.10xV     [Manual Mode]
  CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage                      [1.110]
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB)              1.646V     [1.650]
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD)              1.646V     [1.650]
CPU PLL Voltage                      1.79xV     [1.8000]
PCH 1.1v Voltage                     1.096V     [1.10]
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB)                       [AUTO]
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD)                       [AUTO]
CPU Spread Spectrum                             [Disabled]
PCIE Spread Spectrum                            [Disabled]

The OC or BCLK 125 be able to play on the date and time set to 0 to "cold boot?

Thanks


----------



## cadaveca

YYou need to set CPU current higher. 130% is NOT enough. I pull nearly 250W @ high load on this clock, that's kinda near 180%...crank it up!!!!!

enable XMP and such, too...there is much here in your settings I would say are causing your problem. Maybe I'll make some BIOS screenshots for you.

BOOTING shouldn't be a problem. Stability...sure. If you go back in the thread, you'll find that many users had to boost CPU current much higher, or had booting issues.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> If it runs fine @ stock, but not OC, then no, the board is fine. BCLK OC can affect USB and other devices, so do keep that in mind. If you have wireless/Bluetooth enabled, disable them. That's what I had to do to get 125 BCLK 100% stable running 2666 mem. It's been...sheesh...3-4 months of constant up time I've got now @ 4500cpu/2666mem/125bclk, but just one of my 5 chips can do it.


Are you saying having wireless Bluetooth enabled affects OC options?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Are you saying having wireless Bluetooth enabled affects OC options?


It's one of the first things to give issues when pushing BCLK for me is what I'm saying. Only on BCLK. If you run low BCLK, it's not going to have any impact on OC at all. The Ethernet is much more stable for BCLK OC, not sure which one I'm using, the top plug, I think.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's one of the first things to give issues when pushing BCLK for me is what I'm saying.


Good to know as one of the reasons I choose this board was for the wireless wifi/bluetooth capabilities. I have a cat 5e connection for my internet and gaming stuff, but I will use the bluetooth for my phone and tablet.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Good to know as one of the reasons I choose this board was for the wireless wifi/bluetooth capabilities. I have a cat 5e connection for my internet and gaming stuff, but I will use the bluetooth for my phone and tablet.


Yeah, I was doing the same, had my wife's phone set to sync with PC as soon as it got in range. So I spent time finding best option for 100 BCLK, and that was with those 2133 MHz/1.5V memory settings. I just won't have a phone myself, so I eventually said screw it and let the wife worry about her own phone, and went back to 125 BCLK









Daily, the difference between 100/2133 and 125/2666 is almost not noticeable, but system feels noticeably snappier to me. Maybe it's all in my head though.







benchmarks are slightly better too, of course, but with a higher idle clock, maybe that's all that makes it seem this way.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Madmaxneo:
> 
> When I say extreme cooling I'm talking liquid nitrogen and dry ice, or cascade and phase cooling. With liquid nitrogen and dry ice, no case but maybe a test bench. Cascade and phase... well Little Devil and some individuals do make in-case phase units, but you still have to insulate and install the hardware of your choice.
> 
> Sandy doesn't like extreme cold... anything after minus 40 is a bit wasted with Sandy. Not so with Sandy-E.
> 
> You are talking benchmarking, not productivity or games with 5GHz. IMHO. For games you would more likely be stable enough around 4.5 GHz.
> 
> Nothing wrong with a 4930K. Your friends saying 3930K would be down to you saying "5GHz", rather than some other measure of performance.


I found the forum, it was on here. This is the link to it if your interested: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501922/best-socket-2011-processor-to-hit-5-ghz-and-higher


----------



## alancsalt

OK, personal goal is personal goal. Go for it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, I was doing the same, had my wife's phone set to sync with PC as soon as it got in range. So I spent time finding best option for 100 BCLK, and that was with those 2133 MHz/1.5V memory settings. I just won't have a phone myself, so I eventually said screw it and let the wife worry about her own phone, and went back to 125 BCLK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Daily, the difference between 100/2133 and 125/2666 is almost not noticeable, but system feels noticeably snappier to me. Maybe it's all in my head though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> benchmarks are slightly better too, of course, but with a higher idle clock, maybe that's all that makes it seem this way.


I'm getting the G.Skill Trident X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory modules. The recommended voltage is 1.6v, but the board is set at 1.5v. I would have to OC ram voltage to 1.6v.
1. Do you think there might be a problem in OCing the ram just slightly to get the base speed if I use the bluetooth capability?
My other problem is that I do want to hit 5ghz (if not just to join a few clubs..lol) but have it run at the typical 4.5ghz for gaming).
2. Would I be correct in understanding that I have to raise the BCLK to hit those numbers? Or is that just for the OCing the RAM? I am not worried much about OCing the ram except for that .1 volt increase.
3. Is this a problem with every cpu or maybe just certain ones?
4. What cpu are you using?
Anyone can chime in and their feedback is welcome.
Bruce


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> OK, personal goal is personal goal. Go for it.


Well of course








So do you agree with that thread and what the others were saying?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you agree with that thread and what the others were saying?


Even "poopy" SB-E can push 5 GHz with proper cooling, since they can take the voltage fairly well. After some time, system may seem to be unstable... for quite a few people it turn out BIOS was getting flaky, not the hardware. UEFI can only take some many crashes under load before it begins to go bad.

IVB-E does not take voltage as well. So if you get a weak chip, there's no option of just shoving the volts through it... it just doesn't help.

Honestly, I think 5.0 GHz is unrealistic unless you buy many CPUs and bin them, no matter which chip you choose.

As to your other post, 2133 doesn't need BCLK OC, so I wouldn't worry about it. Buy your parts, assemble, test, and enjoy, don't get stuck on a number.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I found the forum, it was on here. This is the link to it if your interested: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501922/best-socket-2011-processor-to-hit-5-ghz-and-higher


just so you compare the right things, a 4930K at 4.8 is about as as "productive" (fast) as a 5.0 3930K. You should get an IB-E. or wait for next gen.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> OK, personal goal is personal goal. Go for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you agree with that thread and what the others were saying?
Click to expand...

Pretty much what I said..and if hitting 5GHz is a goal, irrespective of how much work an SB-E GHz does compared to an IV-E GHz, then it would probably on average (silicon lottery permitting and not that it is ever absolutely guaranteed for either) be easier to get 5GHz on an SB-E than an IV-E .....


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> YYou need to set CPU current higher. 130% is NOT enough. I pull nearly 250W @ high load on this clock, that's kinda near 180%...crank it up!!!!!
> 
> enable XMP and such, too...there is much here in your settings I would say are causing your problem. Maybe I'll make some BIOS screenshots for you.
> 
> BOOTING shouldn't be a problem. Stability...sure. If you go back in the thread, you'll find that many users had to boost CPU current much higher, or had booting issues.


Thank you for these explanations.

I tried with 140% and still the same problem.
I will test with 180% see what happens (verdict tomorrow morning, I have the problem that when I turn off the power for several hours)
No problem if I do not turn off the power

But with the R4E I never had a problem with the same settings and 130%

I also tried 45x100 2400 9-11-11 and the same problem

Thanks so much for your help


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> YYou need to set CPU current higher. 130% is NOT enough. I pull nearly 250W @ high load on this clock, that's kinda near 180%...crank it up!!!!!
> 
> enable XMP and such, too...there is much here in your settings I would say are causing your problem. Maybe I'll make some BIOS screenshots for you.
> 
> BOOTING shouldn't be a problem. Stability...sure. If you go back in the thread, you'll find that many users had to boost CPU current much higher, or had booting issues.


I have to ask, how are you measuring your CPU load? I have never come across anything that can measure CPU power consumption.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Pretty much what I said..and if hitting 5GHz is a goal, irrespective of how much work an SB-E GHz does compared to an IV-E GHz, then it would probably on average (silicon lottery permitting and not that it is ever absolutely guaranteed for either) be *easier to get 5GHz on an SB-E than an IV-E* .....


ABSOLUTELY! A 5GHz-capable IBE is somewhat rare.


----------



## funkmetal

Just ordered one to replace my Sabretooth X79. So excited


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funkmetal*
> 
> Just ordered one to replace my Sabretooth X79. So excited


I just replaced my Sabertooth X79 with a Rampage Extreme Black Edition. I can honestly say that if I had it to do over again, I would of kept the Sabertooth. Please don't get me wrong, the Rampage is a great board, but it has some quirky nonsense to it that I don't like. For one, it automatically by default overclocks your CPU. If you want to run your system on stock for day to day to use, you actually have to go in and set it up to do so. Also, the overclock profiles built in to the bios, are primarily for Sandbridge processors and do not work well with the new Ivybridge processors. I have a 4930k and when I use the CPU stepup options, 4.1, 4.3 or 4.5, the bios raises my CPU voltage way to high. 1.28 on 4.1 for instance. Issues such as my USB cutting off and on when I take my ram up to 1800mhz and higher also present themselves, but the most annoying is that sometimes my system turns itself on for no reason. I never had any problems running a similar build with my Sabertooth.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I have to ask, how are you measuring your CPU load? I have never come across anything that can measure CPU power consumption.


I have both clamp meter and this cheap Zalman power meter that plugs into 8-pin that actually does a pretty good job. I also have a couple for VGA power, and with a wall-wart added in, the power numbers that I give are fairly well isolated to CPU only.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> I just replaced my Sabertooth X79 with a Rampage Extreme Black Edition. I can honestly say that if I had it to do over again, I would of kept the Sabertooth. Please don't get me wrong, the Rampage is a great board, but it has some quirky nonsense to it that I don't like. For one, it automatically by default overclocks your CPU. If you want to run your system on stock for day to day to use, you actually have to go in and set it up to do so. Also, the overclock profiles built in to the bios, are primarily for Sandbridge processors and do not work well with the new Ivybridge processors. I have a 4930k and when I use the CPU stepup options, 4.1, 4.3 or 4.5, the bios raises my CPU voltage way to high. 1.28 on 4.1 for instance. Issues such as my USB cutting off and on when I take my ram up to 1800mhz and higher also present themselves, but the most annoying is that sometimes my system turns itself on for no reason. I never had any problems running a similar build with my Sabertooth.


Nice rig!









SOunds like another CPU Current limit problem. [email protected] told us 140% is default. So the user posting yesterday @ 130%...is actually using 90%. ROFL.


----------



## axiumone

Has anyone used a uefi gop video card with this board? Does it make any difference in boot time vs legacy? I already have "fast boot" enabled in bios, but I recall my asrock x79 extreme11 had an "ultra fast boot" option for uefi gop cards and it would boot much faster than this board.


----------



## tistou77

I tested @ stock and I have the same problem at boot (CPU FAN error ....)
The motherboard has a problem?

Code:



Code:


LN2 Mode                                     Disable

All Core Target CPU Turbo-Mode Speed :          3900MHz
Target DRAM Speed :                             1333MHz

Ai Overclock Tuner                              [Auto]
CPU Level Up                                    [Disabled]
  BCLK Frequency                                [Auto]
  CPU Strap                                     [AUTO]
  ClockGen Full Reset                           [Enabled]
Turbo Ratio                                     [By All Cores]
By All Cores                                    [Auto]
Internal PLL Overvoltage                        [Enabled]
Memory Frequency                                [Auto]
Xtreme Tweaking                                 [Disabled]
EPU Power Saving Mode                           [Disabled]

===============================================================

>DRAM Timing Control

 Rampage Tweak                          [Auto]

 Primary Timings                        CHA CHB CHC CHD 
 DRAM CAS# Latency                      Auto   
 DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay                Auto  
 DRAM RAS# PRE Time                     Auto  
 DRAM RAS# ACT Time                     Auto  
 DRAM COMMAND Mode                      Auto   
 Latency Boundary                       [Auto]

===============================================================

>DIGI+ Power Control

 CPU VCore
 CPU Load-line Calibration                      [Auto]
 CPU Current Capability                         [Auto]
 CPU Voltage Frequency                          [AUTO]
 VRM Over Temperature Protection                [Auto]
 CPU Power Duty Control                         [T.Probe]
 Vcore MOS volt. Control                        [Auto]
 CPU Power Phase Control                        [Extreme]
 CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage                      [Auto]

 CPU VSA
 VCCSA Load-line Calibration                    [REGULAR]
 VCCSA Current Capability                       [100%]
 VCCSA Fixed Frequency                          [300]
 CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage                      [Auto]

 CPU VTT
 CPU VTT Switching Freq                         [Auto]
 CPU VTT Over-Current Protection                [Auto]

 DRAM Voltage
 DRAM-AB Current Capability                     [100%]
 DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency                      [Manual]
 DRAM-AB Fixed Frequency Mode                   [300]
 DRAM-AB Power Phase Control                    [Extreme]
 DRAM-CD Current Capability                     [100%]
 DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency                      [Auto]
 DRAM-CD Fixed Frequency Mode                   [300]
 DRAM-CD Power Phase Control                    [Auto]

 PCH 1.1V
 PCH 1.1V Switching Freq                        [Auto]

===============================================================

>CPU Performance Settings

 CPU Ratio                                      [Auto]
 Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology            [Enabled]
 Turbo Mode                                     [Enabled]
 --------------------------------------------------------
 Turbo Mode Parameters
 Power Limit Control                            [Auto]

===============================================================

Extreme OV                                      [Disabled]
BCLK Skew                                       [Auto]
CPU VCORE Voltage                    1.264V     [Manual Mode]
  CPU VCORE Manual Voltage                      [1.265]
VTT CPU Voltage                      1.10xV     [1.10]
2nd VTTCPU Voltage                   1.046V     [Auto]
CPU VCCSA Voltage                    1.10xV     [Manual Mode]
  CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage                      [1.110]
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB)              1.646V     [1.650]
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD)              1.646V     [1.650]
CPU PLL Voltage                      1.79xV     [1.8000]
PCH 1.1v Voltage                     1.096V     [1.10]
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB)                       [AUTO]
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD)                       [AUTO]
CPU Spread Spectrum                             [Disabled]
PCIE Spread Spectrum                            [Disabled]

Thanks so much


----------



## alancsalt

CPU fan error?

If you are water cooled disable cpu fan monitoring in bios.
If you are air cooled, is your cpu fan plugged into your correct cpu fan header?
Is it set to give a warning at a higher number of revs than needed?


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> CPU fan error?
> 
> If you are water cooled disable cpu fan monitoring in bios.
> If you are air cooled, is your cpu fan plugged into your correct cpu fan header?
> Is it set to give a warning at a higher number of revs than needed?


It's for this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Since yesterday, I again the problem at boot.
> Cold boot, power off after several hours (no problem if the power remains ON) with the latest bios (so that was OK since weeks)
> 
> So to boot, I don't have the "dual boot" and the bios is reset to zero (such as CMOS) along with the date and time.
> It seems whatsoever related to an unstable OC, but my OC is stable with different bench and I doubt that the "check" of the R4BE more stressful than any bench
> 
> In addition, a friend tested with an unstable OC and no problem to boot with its R4BE.
> The problem not come from the motherboard?
> 
> No problem with the 0507 bios
> 
> Thanks for your help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> It is not the battery, if I reflash with the 0507 bios, no problem.
> According to Raja, this is a problem OC unstable, but then I have a big doubt


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> These last 2 days, the PC has booted without problem with dual boot (power off during the night) and this morning, after I turned on the power and press the ON button on the PC, no dual boot, direct the POST and error message usual "CPU FAN error, etc ...)
> 
> Someone has an idea?
> 
> Thanks so much


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I flash the bios there are 2 or 3 days. For the MEI driver, I have the latest available (10.0.20.1258) and the ME firmware, I am 8.1.52.1496 for several month
> 
> I never installed "AI Suite"
> 
> Besides, I never installed the driver AMDA00, it could be the problem?
> 
> Thank you for your help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Ah ok for bios.
> 
> With the 0507, I never had any problems, it started with the 0602 (and updated ROG 1 and 2)
> If this continues, I will return with 0507
> 
> Thanks for your help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I tried again with the 0507 and I had the same problem this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I lowered the OC (36x125 => 35x125)
> I'll see if the problem is there
> 
> Or problem MEI driver/ME firmware?
> 
> Thanks for your help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I have the same problem in "reducing" the OC (but even vcore, etc ....)
> It will be able to be the motherboard that has a default?
> 
> Thanks for your help


----------



## alancsalt

If I understand correctly, yes, your motherboard may have a problem...

I guess you've tried flicking to the backup bios with the bios button....


----------



## tistou77

I tested with CMOS, the 0507, 602, 603, 701 and 801 bios and same problem (even @ stock)

Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

what speed are your cpu fans running at,

this is a perfect time to update your rig specs and use rigbuilder ( see link in sig )


----------



## Shadowarez

I got the same issue after upgrading from stock bios. And im using Aio. I just disabled Qfan in bios and use ai suite 3 monitor fan speeds.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what speed are your cpu fans running at,
> 
> this is a perfect time to update your rig specs and use rigbuilder ( see link in sig )


For me?

I have no CPU fan, but WC


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> For me?
> 
> I have no CPU fan, but WC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I am sure Mega Man mean to ask you which rpm your fans are running at, even with water cooling you have to have fans (or you don't), but you get the point? Do you use any of the fan_headers on the motherboard?

I guess Mega Man mean if you have fans connected to the cpu_fan header, which rpm are that/those fan(s) running at?


----------



## tistou77

CPU FAN is disabled in the bios


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> CPU FAN is disabled in the bios


Why not just plug any random fan onto the CPU fan header as a test to see if it solves the problem . . .

If it does, then go back and work out a more permanent solution with the new evidence that the CPU header does in fact need something connected.

D.


----------



## tistou77

The problem is more complex than that I think.

Not the "dual boot" to boot (OC + 4x00mhz)
bios reset to 0 (well as the time/date)


----------



## Shadowarez

Malfunctioning cmos battery? Iv only seen bios resets like that with older comps or faulty battery.


----------



## tistou77

I think so too.
I will test another R4BE to see.

And my Xonar Phoebus fell H.S last week too (I have no luck at the moment ...)


----------



## Mega Man

If you don't have anything sending the cpu a rpm signal then you need to doable it in monitoring in the bios.

I agree about the battery.

This is why I like the aquaero as it can send out a rpm signal to the mobo and shut it off if there is an alarm


----------



## sixsigmamb

4 pin ATX connector? Does anyone know the specific purpose of the 4 pin ATX connector slightly left of the 8 pin ATX connector on the top of the mb? One thing for sure, it definitely makes a difference when it's plugged-in to the psu.


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you don't have anything sending the cpu a rpm signal then you need to doable it in monitoring in the bios.
> 
> I agree about the battery.
> 
> This is why I like the aquaero as it can send out a rpm signal to the mobo and shut it off if there is an alarm


Are RPM readings of the bios subject to error around 5-7% + or -? From what I understand, rpm readings are calculated by logic on the mb by measuring ohms. The impedance of one fan verses another can be widely different. That said, does the logic on mb identify fans by make and model and thus store calibration data for the same?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I have both clamp meter and this cheap Zalman power meter that plugs into 8-pin that actually does a pretty good job. I also have a couple for VGA power, and with a wall-wart added in, the power numbers that I give are fairly well isolated to CPU only.
> 
> 
> Nice rig!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SOunds like another CPU Current limit problem. [email protected] told us 140% is default. So the user posting yesterday @ 130%...is actually using 90%. ROFL.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> 4 pin ATX connector? Does anyone know the specific purpose of the 4 pin ATX connector slightly left of the 8 pin ATX connector on the top of the mb? One thing for sure, it definitely makes a difference when it's plugged-in to the psu.


The extra four pin is for additional CPU power, it simply allows for added power during overclocking. (I suppose it could be for the mosfets or something, but basically for overclocking).


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> 4 pin ATX connector? Does anyone know the specific purpose of the 4 pin ATX connector slightly left of the 8 pin ATX connector on the top of the mb? One thing for sure, it definitely makes a difference when it's plugged-in to the psu.


The extra 4pin connector is added power for overclocking. I am not certain if that power is dedicated to a specific component, or if it goes to multiple things, be it CPU, Mosfets, or whatever else there may be required for overclocking purposes...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> The extra 4pin connector is added power for overclocking. I am not certain if that power is dedicated to a specific component, or if it goes to multiple things, be it CPU, Mosfets, or whatever else there may be required for overclocking purposes...


Its totally useless to me cause I run dual psu's and the 8 pin is enough even when benching at 5.3 gigglehurtles with 1.6v ++ under full load


----------



## [email protected]

Assuming everything in the chain is to spec - a single 8pin EPS12V connector can pass up-to 36 amps. There may be some PSUs out there however that do not use a socket that is specified to handle that level of current (PSUs over 850W should), or sometimes the female connectors do not make good connection with the male pins. With that in mind, plugging in *both* the 8pin and 4pin connectors is a good idea when overclocking the platform.

The 8pin and 4pin both supply the primary CPU VRM rails.

Although I've never seen it happen on this forum fortunately, I have known of "muppets" that have used the 4 pin only on some boards and then oc'd them - with catastrophic results (for obvious reasons). Don't do that.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> The extra 4pin connector is added power for overclocking. I am not certain if that power is dedicated to a specific component, or if it goes to multiple things, be it CPU, Mosfets, or whatever else there may be required for overclocking purposes...
> 
> 
> 
> Its totally useless to me cause I run dual psu's and the 8 pin is enough even when benching at 5.3 gigglehurtles with 1.6v ++ under full load
Click to expand...

Good to see you on this forum your a good source of info for OCing


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you don't have anything sending the cpu a rpm signal then you need to doable it in monitoring in the bios.
> 
> I agree about the battery.
> 
> This is why I like the aquaero as it can send out a rpm signal to the mobo and shut it off if there is an alarm
> 
> 
> 
> Are RPM readings of the bios subject to error around 5-7% + or -? *From what I understand, rpm readings are calculated by logic on the mb by measuring ohms. The impedance of one fan verses another can be widely different.* That said, does the logic on mb identify fans by make and model and thus store calibration data for the same?
Click to expand...

That would be a misunderstanding of how the tach circuit of the fan works.

Impedance is the term used to refer to resistance in an AC circuit, as it often changes as the frequency does.

Fans are DC, and while they have an "effective" resistance, that's inclusive of reactance.

Getting back to fan tach circuitry . . . .

The fan's impedance has nothing to do with it. . . . . . It's simple switching, nothing more elaborate than that.

The tach line, typically the yellow wire, is effectively connected to the Gnd line 2 times per revolution.

It could use either optical or magnetic switching, but *the take away point is that the tach "signal" is effectively just contact closures between the yellow wire and black wire twice per revolution*.

To make the contact closures into a countable pulse train related to the rpm, the device the tach is connected to, to read the "signal", has to have a resistor pulling the yellow wire to some positive voltage level, often 5V, but sometimes 12V, and then counting the number of voltage transitions between that positive voltage level and Gnd level per given amount of time.

If you're measuring the pulses in 1 second intervals, then the frequency in Hz, multiplied by 30, gives you RPM.

It's not uncommon to see RPM readings be a bit off, or bounce back and forth between 2 consecutive multiples of 30.

Darlene


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Assuming everything in the chain is to spec - a single 8pin EPS12V connector can pass up-to 36 amps. There may be some PSUs out there however that do not use a socket that is specified to handle that level of current (PSUs over 850W should), or sometimes the female connectors do not make good connection with the male pins. With that in mind, plugging in *both* the 8pin and 4pin connectors is a good idea when overclocking the platform.
> 
> The 8pin and 4pin both supply the primary CPU VRM rails.
> 
> Although I've never seen it happen on this forum fortunately, I have known of "muppets" that have used the 4 pin only on some boards and then oc'd them - with catastrophic results (for obvious reasons). Don't do that.


Nice to hear from you Raja








I will try it out next time im using 1 PSU
Yeah that's friggin hilarious ....... that's how you melt solder LoooooL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Good to see you on this forum your a good source of info for OCing


Thanks mate , just some new peeps don't realize that


----------



## sixsigmamb

Thank you. I appreciate the lesson basic electronics. I appreciate learning from people with better knowledge than me.


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I will try it out next time im using 1 PSU


Hello

Additional 12V EPS connections allow for a lower current at each terminal for a given load. How many power supplies one uses is irrelevant regarding this.


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That would be a misunderstanding of how the tach circuit of the fan works.
> 
> Impedance is the term used to refer to resistance in an AC circuit, as it often changes as the frequency does.
> 
> Fans are DC, and while they have an "effective" resistance, that's inclusive of reactance.
> 
> Getting back to fan tach circuitry . . . .
> 
> The fan's impedance has nothing to do with it. . . . . . It's simple switching, nothing more elaborate than that.
> 
> The tach line, typically the yellow wire, is effectively connected to the Gnd line 2 times per revolution.
> 
> It could use either optical or magnetic switching, but *the take away point is that the tach "signal" is effectively just contact closures between the yellow wire and black wire twice per revolution*.
> 
> To make the contact closures into a countable pulse train related to the rpm, the device the tach is connected to, to read the "signal", has to have a resistor pulling the yellow wire to some positive voltage level, often 5V, but sometimes 12V, and then counting the number of voltage transitions between that positive voltage level and Gnd level per given amount of time.
> 
> If you're measuring the pulses in 1 second intervals, then the frequency in Hz, multiplied by 30, gives you RPM.
> 
> It's not uncommon to see RPM readings be a bit off, or bounce back and forth between 2 consecutive multiples of 30.
> 
> Darlene


Just a bit of information, Hertz is a measurement of how many times an ac circuit goes from plus to minus in a second. It has nothing to do with dc circuits. Impedance is generally used to provide measurements of ac circuits, however, with dc fans, impedance is the feedback measurement from the fan back to the psu. It definitely affects how a one fans rpm is read versus another.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Praz*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Additional 12V EPS connections allow for a lower current at each terminal for a given load. How many power supplies one uses is irrelevant regarding this.


You cant connect together 2x4pin connectors when running a dual psu cable as I am now it simply doesn't have it . Unless its a custom made one . That's why i said what i said









After getting some extraodinary low temps with a 1hp chiller I decided to add rads back into the loop , 360 / 60mm and a 420 / 50mm with quick disconnects of cause , so I can run my deskputer with the option of having the chiller off or on









LooooL Come to think of it I was using rads before I got that chiller .............


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That would be a misunderstanding of how the tach circuit of the fan works.
> 
> Impedance is the term used to refer to resistance in an AC circuit, as it often changes as the frequency does.
> 
> Fans are DC, and while they have an "effective" resistance, that's inclusive of reactance.
> 
> Getting back to fan tach circuitry . . . .
> 
> The fan's impedance has nothing to do with it. . . . . . It's simple switching, nothing more elaborate than that.
> 
> The tach line, typically the yellow wire, is effectively connected to the Gnd line 2 times per revolution.
> 
> It could use either optical or magnetic switching, but *the take away point is that the tach "signal" is effectively just contact closures between the yellow wire and black wire twice per revolution*.
> 
> To make the contact closures into a countable pulse train related to the rpm, the device the tach is connected to, to read the "signal", has to have a resistor pulling the yellow wire to some positive voltage level, often 5V, but sometimes 12V, and then counting the number of voltage transitions between that positive voltage level and Gnd level per given amount of time.
> 
> If you're measuring the pulses in 1 second intervals, then the frequency in Hz, multiplied by 30, gives you RPM.
> 
> It's not uncommon to see RPM readings be a bit off, or bounce back and forth between 2 consecutive multiples of 30.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> *Just a bit of information, Hertz is a measurement of how many times an ac circuit goes from plus to minus in a second. It has nothing to do with dc circuits.* Impedance is generally used to provide measurements of ac circuits, however, with dc fans, impedance is the feedback measurement from the fan back to the psu. *It definitely affects how a one fans rpm is read versus another*.
Click to expand...

Hertz is also used to refer to a pulse train's frequency, as an example, the Intel PWM standard for PC fans specs 25KHz with a Vmax of 5.25V . . . .









But you go ahead and believe what you wish about how a fan's rpm is derived.

I'll not waste any more time with you.

Darlene


----------



## Jpmboy

"muppets" LOL


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> "muppets" LOL


I know eh








They are everywhere


----------



## sixsigmamb

I stand corrected.


----------



## He1p1ess n00b

900pgs to read is above my capabilities

Help me please decide http://www.overclock.net/t/1503023/rampage-iv-black-edition-vs-asus-p9x79-e-ws-advice-needed

And maybe someone knows which CPU we better choose http://www.overclock.net/t/1501426/i7-3960x-vs-xeon-e5-2660


----------



## szeged

will you be gaming and use all the gaming and extreme overclocking features the black edition has to offer? extreme overclocking as in liquid nitrogen?

will you be doing heavily threaded work loads that require maximum stability and dont need ermagoddd awesome audio features, omggggg voltage check points omggg sub zero temps.

answer those and we can help


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> You cant connect together 2x4pin connectors when running a dual psu cable as I am now it simply doesn't have it . Unless its a custom made one . That's why i said what i said


Hello

I apologize. The statement below reads differently to me and users may get the wrong message as to the use of the additional EPS 12V connections.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Its totally useless to me cause I run dual psu's and the 8 pin is enough even when benching at 5.3 gigglehurtles with 1.6v ++ under full load


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Praz*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I apologize. The statement below reads differently to me and users may get the wrong message as to the use of the additional EPS 12V connections.


simply said - connect the 8 and 4 pin EPS cables to your mobo. AND the 4-pin molex whether you have 1 or 4 cards.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I know eh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are everywhere


HCPC - get the little HWBOT thing added to your sig:

put your bot UN here. easy:


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> HCPC - get the little HWBOT thing added to your sig:
> 
> put your bot UN here. easy:


Well its in the skunkworks as we speak but I tried this a year ago and got nuddah








Have a look at my sig page......
http://www.overclock.net/u/306974/homecinema-pc


----------



## He1p1ess n00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> will you be doing heavily threaded work loads that require maximum stability and dont need ermagoddd awesome audio features, omggggg voltage check points omggg sub zero temps.
> 
> answer those and we can help


of course nor LN nor extreme water cooling, and I quit gaming long ago. I want powerful & stable ws, inclining to buy E52687WV2 | E52692V2. BUT what is keeping my eyes on IVBE is its audio, I're read it's way better than simple onboard of P9X79-E, so I may overpay $100 for best onboard audio to not spend $300 for sound card.
But if you could please post in my thread so in this thread posts would be deleted for OT. And I do not want offtopic here


----------



## alancsalt

Jpmboy can't see this:


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *He1p1ess n00b*
> 
> of course nor LN nor extreme water cooling, and I quit gaming long ago. I want powerful & stable ws, inclining to buy E52687WV2 | E52692V2. BUT what is keeping my eyes on IVBE is its audio, I're read it's way better than simple onboard of P9X79-E, so I may overpay $100 for best onboard audio to not spend $300 for sound card.
> But if you could please post in my thread so in this thread posts would be deleted for OT. And I do not want offtopic here


The onboard audio on the R4BE is comparable to about a $70 sound card... I loaned my friends $200 headphones and I could discern no difference between it and my Sound Blaster Recon3D Fatal1ty external sound card, plugged into the same board...

Unless you NEED the features that the R4BE offers, then why even consider it? I mean, if it is going into a workstation, obviously it is just going to be workstation style workloads, then th black edition is not really worth the added cost... Now, if you plan to have your side panel open frequently, or NEED some of the different features, then it is a worthwhile motherboard... IF the money is not an issue...

Ultimately, I always tell people, get whatever YOU WANT, what you need is not always as important as what you want... If you want the BE, get it, if you want the WS, get it... lol
Not very helpful, I know...


----------



## He1p1ess n00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Not very helpful, I know...


Commented there


----------



## Gualichu04

It seems i can't put a r9 290x with an aquacomputer backplate on the top pci-e slot it jsut hits the ram slots and won't go in. Now i have one gpu running at pci-e 3.0 x8 since the sound card has to go in the bottom slot. The 2nd gpu will go in the 2nd slot and i hope it runs at x8 with the other one.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Well its in the skunkworks as we speak but I tried this a year ago and got nuddah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look at my sig page......
> http://www.overclock.net/u/306974/homecinema-pc


As mrsalt pointed out - can't see that. I think mods can "expedite" the event?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Jpmboy can't see this:


----------



## alancsalt

Sometimes, when I put in a "good word", it works. I have done so for Mr Cinema ... and we're waiting to see if we catch a li'l bot..


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> It seems i can't put a r9 290x with an aquacomputer backplate on the top pci-e slot it jsut hits the ram slots and won't go in. Now i have one gpu running at pci-e 3.0 x8 since the sound card has to go in the bottom slot. The 2nd gpu will go in the 2nd slot and i hope it runs at x8 with the other one.


I just wanted to try and help if I can... Although you can not fit a card into the top slot, which really sucks balls! You can put one into the third slot, which is wired for x16 operation, while the second and fourth x16 slots are actually wired for x8 operation, the first and third slots are physically and electrically x16 slots. So hopefully that is at the very least some kind of good news for you...


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I just wanted to try and help if I can... Although you can not fit a card into the top slot, which really sucks balls! You can put one into the third slot, which is wired for x16 operation, while the second and fourth x16 slots are actually wired for x8 operation, the first and third slots are physically and electrically x16 slots. So hopefully that is at the very least some kind of good news for you...


Sadly i will have two gpus in crossfire and my sound card has to go in the last slot which make the third slot run at x8. Minor cost for having the gpu run as cool as possible it seems.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have been reading through the users manual for my RIVE, and other than discovering that this more of an awesome board than I originally thought. I came across something that made me a little more excited. I may be able to use my 5.1 sound system in a 7.1 configuration. But I need a little help. I have the logitech z906 speakers (which sound great). The RIVE supports 7.1 surround sound through the use of the analog ports. I have the analog wires to connect my speakers to my sound card but I prefer the optical (for dolby digital and so on). If I use the analog connections to connect my RIVE to the speakers (will still be using the optical for some things) I could conceivably connect a 2.0 speaker set to use as the extra speakers in the 7.1 configuration via the headphone jack (as indicated in the manual). My only problem is getting a set of 2.0 speakers to match my z906 specs (that also uses the stereo jack to connect to the computer). If I can find a set of speakers with all that I am set and will be able to have 7.1 surround sound. This is where I need help. Hopefully someone here might be able to point me in the right direction.
Here are the specs I need to match in my z906 speaker set for equalization in the sound:
Power Rating (RMS): 500 Watt (Total Power)
Sound Pressure Level: (SPL Max) >110 dBC
Frequency Response: 35 Hz - 20 kHz
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: (SNR) A weighted: >95 dB
Input Impedance: 8,000 Ohms for analog

I have searched through some computer speakers and was unable to find anything that would match the 500 watt total power. So any help is greatly appreciated.

One more thing, the speakers have to be small, at least close to the size of the z906 satellite speakers (which is about average size for computer satellite speakers).

Bruce


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Sadly i will have two gpus in crossfire and my sound card has to go in the last slot which make the third slot run at x8. Minor cost for having the gpu run as cool as possible it seems.


Forgive me for sounding naive, but what is the actual reason your GPU cannot fit in the top slot? That is to say, my GPU fits fine in the top slot and does snot interfere with anything... Is there something on your RAM making it somehow larger than normal, if so, is this something that can be removed, I know that a lot of RAM heatsinks tend to be COMPKETELY aesthetic, and do not cool the RAM even slightly, an example of this is MOST of the Corsair Vengeance line of RAM, you can remove the heat spreaders/ramsinks/heatsinks and experience no change in performance, stability, or temperatures... I measured my RAM temperatures with both a physical temperature probe fitted to the inside of the heat spreader, and also used a infrared temperature probe, and both came back with similar temperatures, but the interesting thing, is that no test showed any difference in temperature, and I'd there was one, it could not be detected by a probe that went down two decimal points below 1... I wish my hard drive had not failed as it had all of data on it... :-( anyway, my point is that you can probably remove the heat spreaders if that is the issue, and use your top slot, that is, if even understand the most grueling RAM tests they do not get warm to the touch...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Forgive me for sounding naive, but what is the actual reason your GPU cannot fit in the top slot? [...]


His AQ backplate hits the ram slots.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> It seems *i can't put a r9 290x with an aquacomputer backplate on the top pci-e slot it jsut hits the ram slots* and won't go in. Now i have one gpu running at pci-e 3.0 x8 since the sound card has to go in the bottom slot. The 2nd gpu will go in the 2nd slot and i hope it runs at x8 with the other one.


This has been discussed quite a bit. There is barely any clearance above the top slot for a backplate on a GPU and the memory slots. People have dealt with it by modifying the backplate (that's what I did) or by trimming the clips for the memory slots, or they move the card to a lower slot.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> His AQ backplate hits the ram slots.
> This has been discussed quite a bit. There is barely any clearance above the top slot for a backplate on a GPU and the memory slots. People have dealt with it by modifying the backplate (that's what I did) or by trimming the clips for the memory slots, or they move the card to a lower slot.


I wish i could modify the back plate but is thick metal and trimming the slots is a no no since that would probably void the warranty. I will just deal with no gpu in the top slot. Asus really should fix this with other motherboards being released. The back plate i have actually does cool the vrm quite well.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> His AQ backplate hits the ram slots.
> This has been discussed quite a bit. There is barely any clearance above the top slot for a backplate on a GPU and the memory slots. People have dealt with it by modifying the backplate (that's what I did) or by trimming the clips for the memory slots, or they move the card to a lower slot.


Completely my fault, I somehow missed the AQ backplate portion... My apologies for wasting that bit of time.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> *I wish i could modify the back plate but is thick metal* and trimming the slots is a no no since that would probably void the warranty. I will just deal with no gpu in the top slot. Asus really should fix this with other motherboards being released. The back plate i have actually does cool the vrm quite well.


Sounds like a job for a rotary tool with a grinding stone or cutoff wheel bit. I'd put some painter's tape on that block so I could pencil in where the ram clips are making contact / in the way, slap on a pair of safety glasses and start making sparks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Completely my fault, I somehow missed the AQ backplate portion... My apologies for wasting that bit of time.


No biggie. Most of us do similar often.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Sometimes, when I put in a "good word", it works. I have done so for Mr Cinema ... and we're waiting to see if we catch a li'l bot..


Elusive little things those bots.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> As mrsalt pointed out - can't see that. I think mods can "expedite" the event?


Ya got me there LoooL









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Sometimes, when I put in a "good word", it works. I have done so for Mr Cinema ... and we're waiting to see if we catch a li'l bot..


Thanks Mr Salt .... i can always count on you for required results









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have been reading through the users manual for my RIVE, and other than discovering that this more of an awesome board than I originally thought. I came across something that made me a little more excited. I may be able to use my 5.1 sound system in a 7.1 configuration. But I need a little help. I have the logitech z906 speakers (which sound great). The RIVE supports 7.1 surround sound through the use of the analog ports. I have the analog wires to connect my speakers to my sound card but I prefer the optical (for dolby digital and so on). If I use the analog connections to connect my RIVE to the speakers (will still be using the optical for some things) I could conceivably connect a 2.0 speaker set to use as the extra speakers in the 7.1 configuration via the headphone jack (as indicated in the manual). My only problem is getting a set of 2.0 speakers to match my z906 specs (that also uses the stereo jack to connect to the computer). If I can find a set of speakers with all that I am set and will be able to have 7.1 surround sound. This is where I need help. Hopefully someone here might be able to point me in the right direction.
> Here are the specs I need to match in my z906 speaker set for equalization in the sound:
> Power Rating (RMS): 500 Watt (Total Power)
> Sound Pressure Level: (SPL Max) >110 dBC
> Frequency Response: 35 Hz - 20 kHz
> Signal-to-Noise Ratio: (SNR) A weighted: >95 dB
> Input Impedance: 8,000 Ohms for analog
> 
> I have searched through some computer speakers and was unable to find anything that would match the 500 watt total power. So any help is greatly appreciated.
> 
> One more thing, the speakers have to be small, at least close to the size of the z906 satellite speakers (which is about average size for computer satellite speakers).
> 
> Bruce


True 5.1 , 5.2 , 7.1 DD or DTS needs spidif or coxial and a amplifier with optical socket and DD DTS decoder for optimum results


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sounds like a job for a rotary tool with a grinding stone or cutoff wheel bit. I'd put some painter's tape on that block so I could pencil in where the ram clips are making contact / in the way, slap on a pair of safety glasses and start making sparks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No biggie. Most of us do similar often.


No point in cutting it since they would still run at x8 because of the water bridge for the backplates i am using would make the gpus go in the top and 2nd slot anyways. In tests the gpu realy doesn't loose performance on x8 vs x16 for pci-e 3.0.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> No point in cutting it since they would still run at x8 because of the water bridge for the backplates i am using would make the gpus go in the top and 2nd slot anyways. In tests the gpu realy doesn't loose performance on x8 vs x16 for pci-e 3.0.


Lucky for me top card fits snuggly im using XPSC w/blocks


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> True 5.1 , 5.2 , 7.1 DD or DTS needs spidif or coxial and a amplifier with optical socket and DD DTS decoder for optimum results


This I can deal with and will use the optical output for true 5.1 DD or DTS, I primarily want to use the 7.1 surround for gaming, but also for some music and to see if some movies sound any better.

I have a Sound Blaster Zx sound card and though it does produce some nice sound I believe the RIVE onboard sound could be better. The RIVE has a 120db SNR where the Zx has a 116db SNR (I know it is impossible to tell the difference unless at real high volumes), though the Zx may have better sampling, not sure as I have to check the Zx specs again. Either way it would still be interesting to experience 7.1 surround in my room.
Bruce


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> No point in cutting it since they would still run at x8 because of the water bridge for the backplates i am using would make the gpus go in the top and 2nd slot anyways. In tests the gpu realy doesn't loose performance on x8 vs x16 for pci-e 3.0.
> 
> 
> 
> Lucky for me top card fits snuggly im using XPSC w/blocks
Click to expand...

same with the komodo !


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> I wish i could modify the back plate but is thick metal and trimming the slots is a no no since that would probably void the warranty. I will just deal with no gpu in the top slot. Asus really should fix this with other motherboards being released. The back plate i have actually does cool the vrm quite well.


I can't really agree with the complaint that this should be remedied by Asus... I mean, you knew how the board was designed before purchase, and there are other boards that you could have purchased, given that this board is meant for enthusiasts and gamers, there is no other good way to obtain four-way SLI with support dual slot cards...

If this is a well documented issue, it is something that should have been considered upon the purchase of the components... I mean, I purchased a motherboard that had a chipset that supported my CPU, but unfortunately there was no BIOS that supported it, and so who do I blame? Intel for not forcing vendors to update the BIOS, newegg for not verifying my purchase, EVGA for not updating the BIOS, or myself, for not verifying functionality...

I will happily accept responsibility, because ultimately, the buck stops with me, I got excited about building my server, and I assumed that the board would support my CPU because since the chipset does...

In the same way, you could blame AQ for not ensuring compatibility, they know you are going to put it in a motherboard, so they should ensure compatibility, your motherboard manufacturer has no idea what aftermarket components you intend to add, so how does it fall upon Asus, and not the end user to verify functionality... Again, I can't wrap my mind around how it could possibly be any of the companies' fault, if you are the only one that knows what parts you plan to use together...

I don't know, maybe I am just crazy for thinking it is our job to make sure things fit physically, I feel that is why I see so many, "Does x heatsink fit on x motherboard?", or, "Does x heatsink fit inside x case?" posts...

I even go so far as to search for problems with components, simply by attaching the word "problems" after the name of the item... I have resolved so many issues before they became issues simply by searching, finding a problem, and changing my hardware decisions based on what issues that I found other people were having, but then I guess I am a proactive person, and I would rather find a solution before it is a problem than find someone to blame afterwards...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have been reading through the users manual for my RIVE, and other than discovering that this more of an awesome board than I originally thought. I came across something that made me a little more excited. I may be able to use my 5.1 sound system in a 7.1 configuration. But I need a little help. I have the logitech z906 speakers (which sound great). The RIVE supports 7.1 surround sound through the use of the analog ports. I have the analog wires to connect my speakers to my sound card but I prefer the optical (for dolby digital and so on). If I use the analog connections to connect my RIVE to the speakers (will still be using the optical for some things) I could conceivably connect a 2.0 speaker set to use as the extra speakers in the 7.1 configuration via the headphone jack (as indicated in the manual). My only problem is getting a set of 2.0 speakers to match my z906 specs (that also uses the stereo jack to connect to the computer). If I can find a set of speakers with all that I am set and will be able to have 7.1 surround sound. This is where I need help. Hopefully someone here might be able to point me in the right direction.
> Here are the specs I need to match in my z906 speaker set for equalization in the sound:
> Power Rating (RMS): 500 Watt (Total Power)
> Sound Pressure Level: (SPL Max) >110 dBC
> Frequency Response: 35 Hz - 20 kHz
> Signal-to-Noise Ratio: (SNR) A weighted: >95 dB
> Input Impedance: 8,000 Ohms for analog
> 
> I have searched through some computer speakers and was unable to find anything that would match the 500 watt total power. So any help is greatly appreciated.
> 
> One more thing, the speakers have to be small, at least close to the size of the z906 satellite speakers (which is about average size for computer satellite speakers).
> 
> Bruce


I could be misunderstanding the situation, but how will you add two speakers to a speaker system that is an AIO sort of kit...? I mean, I can add speakers to my receiver, and change the number or channels in use, but I have never seen that you can do so with a pre-built kit... That is, unless you intend to just wire in a couple of speakers to your extra audio output spatial channels, in which case I am a hit lost as to why they need to identically match the speakers of the Logitech kit...

Alternatively, why not just check eBay or a comparable site for some left over speakers from one of those kits, surely someone has just a pair of those speakers, or a damaged kit that does not fully work but could be salvaged to serve your purposes...

Anyhow, those are just my questions on the matter, hopefully something can help to spark a solution... Also, the onboard audio from the R4BE is not so great as people seem to think, I guess I see people that think this is some $200 sound card solution, and it just isn't. It cost Asus probably $20 to implement this, and it would cost about $70 to purchase a comparable sound card, not to mention that there are 'benchmarks' all over regarding the audio on this board, and how it does not live up to its specs, not even in Asus tests it seems...

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7709/retesting-the-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-audio

Although that is not a complete picture, it does give some sense of the state of things... I had read one some time ago, I think on Tom's, but alas I can not now find it... :-(

Hopefully I can locate and post a link in the future...


----------



## cadaveca

you CAN plug speakers into 7.1, and use two sets, you simply plug the second kit into the rears, or sides, or whatever...

front
center/sub
side

on the 5.1 kit.

and rears on the other?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> you CAN plug speakers into 7.1, and use two sets, you simply plug the second kit into the rears, or sides, or whatever...
> 
> front
> center/sub
> side
> 
> on the 5.1 kit.
> 
> and rears on the other?


Is this comment for me, or the OP?
If it is for me, I am aware that you can, I was just confused as thto the need for matching speakers, I have used 7.1 with three different sets of speakers, it just sounds like he may be trying to run them through the main speaker system...

If it is not for me, then please disregard the previous... lol


----------



## cadaveca

Yeah, at you. He did say he planned to use analogue to connect dem speakers, man...
Quote:


> If I use the analog connections to connect my RIVE to the speakers (will still be using the optical for some things) I could conceivably connect a 2.0 speaker set to use as the extra speakers in the 7.1 configuration via the headphone jack (as indicated in the manual).


and he wants matched speakers, since that's what works well. I'd do, and have done, the same thing, but with the older Logitech set...it was like 509, or something, plus the 209 or 203, or I dunno the model, but then I had dual subs, front and rear, and 8 sonically matched speakers...which is the same basic set-up mentioned above.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I can't really agree with the complaint that this should be remedied by Asus... I mean, you knew how the board was designed before purchase, and there are other boards that you could have purchased, given that this board is meant for enthusiasts and gamers, there is no other good way to obtain four-way SLI with support dual slot cards...
> 
> If this is a well documented issue, it is something that should have been considered upon the purchase of the components... I mean, I purchased a motherboard that had a chipset that supported my CPU, but unfortunately there was no BIOS that supported it, and so who do I blame? Intel for not forcing vendors to update the BIOS, newegg for not verifying my purchase, EVGA for not updating the BIOS, or myself, for not verifying functionality...
> 
> I will happily accept responsibility, because ultimately, the buck stops with me, I got excited about building my server, and I assumed that the board would support my CPU because since the chipset does...
> 
> In the same way, you could blame AQ for not ensuring compatibility, they know you are going to put it in a motherboard, so they should ensure compatibility, your motherboard manufacturer has no idea what aftermarket components you intend to add, so how does it fall upon Asus, and not the end user to verify functionality... Again, I can't wrap my mind around how it could possibly be any of the companies' fault, if you are the only one that knows what parts you plan to use together...
> 
> I don't know, maybe I am just crazy for thinking it is our job to make sure things fit physically, I feel that is why I see so many, "Does x heatsink fit on x motherboard?", or, "Does x heatsink fit inside x case?" posts...
> 
> I even go so far as to search for problems with components, simply by attaching the word "problems" after the name of the item... I have resolved so many issues before they became issues simply by searching, finding a problem, and changing my hardware decisions based on what issues that I found other people were having, but then I guess I am a proactive person, and I would rather find a solution before it is a problem than find someone to blame afterwards...


When i bought the board i never knew there was goign to be an issue with back plates for the 1st slot. I had no way of know what the thickness of the backplate was going to be and that it was going to be an issue upon installing it. Either way i still have my gpus in x8 regardless if i use the top slot or not.


----------



## reev3r

I did see that, which is why my question was asking why he needed identically matching speakers... I am more curious about that than anything, I know of people that have tried to wire extra speakers to their speaker system, but they are designed for a set number of speakers and no more, so if he is not trying to do that, why does he need to have speakers with the same specs... Just seems like unnecessary headache to me...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> When i bought the board i never knew there was goign to be an issue with back plates for the 1st slot. I had no way of know what the thickness of the backplate was going to be and that it was going to be an issue upon installing it. Either way i still have my gpus in x8 regardless if i use the top slot or not.


I guess I don't understand how this is Asus' fault... I mean, most motherboards I have seen have spacing that is standardized, so the distance between the top slot and the RAM is almost always the same for a given form factor, so if it doesn't fix x board with that form factor, why would it fit a different one... As well, the other fellow had stated 'this is a well known issue', but apparently it is not that well known if you had purchased your equipment having never heard of it...

I guess it is just my personal experience giving me a bit of bias, other than my recent P67/Ivy Bridge snafu, I have never actually had incompatible parts, due to my incessant research before a purchase, which is good and bad, because it literally takes me months to decide on components. :-(


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I guess I don't understand how this is Asus' fault... I mean, most motherboards I have seen have spacing that is standardized, so the distance between the top slot and the RAM is almost always the same for a given form factor, so if it doesn't fix x board with that form factor, why would it fit a different one... As well, the other fellow had stated 'this is a well known issue', but apparently it is not that well known if you had purchased your equipment having never heard of it...
> 
> I guess it is just my personal experience giving me a bit of bias, other than my recent P67/Ivy Bridge snafu, I have never actually had incompatible parts, due to my incessant research before a purchase, which is good and bad, because it literally takes me months to decide on components. :-(


I actually never planned on having the back plate with the water block and my gtx 480 has a thinner back plate that never had this issue. It seems it is just the layout of the motherboards in general then for having 8 ram slots. Not a big issue for me just a slight annoyance.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> I actually never planned on having the back plate with the water block and my gtx 480 has a thinner back plate that never had this issue. It seems it is just the layout of the motherboards in general then for having 8 ram slots. Not a big issue for me just a slight annoyance.


My apologies, it seems I misunderstood, I thought you were blaming Asus for the issue.


----------



## reev3r

I must say, it is nice to actually be a part of a group of people that don't just flip out when you have a differing opinion of something, I notice that just about everyone on OCN is willing to discuss things, as opposed to just going @p€§h¡t over every little disagreement....
Thank you all for allowing me my different perspective on things...


----------



## He1p1ess n00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Batch is really unimportant, since I got ES. They are earlier batch than retail chips seem to be, and all are from the same batch, with quite varied clocks.


Just wanted to clarify, does this board get troubles if ES chip is inserted? Especially with latest BIOS. If this board won't boot and work with ES it is bad news. Does anyone know? Maybe someone uses ES on subj?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *He1p1ess n00b*
> 
> Just wanted to clarify, does this board get troubles if ES chip is inserted? Especially with latest BIOS. If this board won't boot and work with ES it is bad news. Does anyone know? Maybe someone uses ES on subj?


check with

@Joa3d43


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *He1p1ess n00b*
> 
> Just wanted to clarify, does this board get troubles if ES chip is inserted? Especially with latest BIOS. If this board won't boot and work with ES it is bad news. Does anyone know? Maybe someone uses ES on subj?


works fine, I have C0 3960X ES and multiple 4960X ES.

There is problem with C0 3960X ES in that not all pcie slots can be populated. Might be my CPU.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

cadaveca: Have you tried KHX24C11T3K4/32X on the RIVBE at 2400 Mhz on a 3930K? Which overclock should I be able to get with that ram at that speed? It is supported by the http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/Rampage_IV_Black_Edition_DIMM_QVL.pdf.

I think I am stable at 4,5 Ghz @ 1,375 volts with 1866 Mhz ram (it means I am stable in everything else than Prime95)


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> cadaveca: Have you tried KHX24C11T3K4/32X on the RIVBE at 2400 Mhz on a 3930K? Which overclock should I be able to get with that ram at that speed? It is supported by the http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/Rampage_IV_Black_Edition_DIMM_QVL.pdf.
> 
> I think I am stable at 4,5 Ghz @ 1,375 volts with 1866 Mhz ram (it means I am stable in everything else than Prime95)


What he has stock is nothing to laugh at. Perfection is in the eye of the beholder.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> What he has stock is nothing to laugh at. Perfection is in the eye of the beholder.


Excuse me, what do you mean?


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Excuse me, what do you mean?


That you have a very nice rig


----------



## wjturner78

may I join?


----------



## reev3r

I should get myself added to the group... Still need to post an image of my board and whatnot... Should have done so back in Nov. when I got the darn board!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I did see that, which is why my question was asking why he needed identically matching speakers... I am more curious about that than anything, I know of people that have tried to wire extra speakers to their speaker system, but they are designed for a set number of speakers and no more, so if he is not trying to do that, why does he need to have speakers with the same specs... Just seems like unnecessary headache to me...


I need matching speakers for equalization of sound. I could do with only matching the 500 watt output but the other numbers matter also. Wanting to keep the numbers matched comes from past experience in a computer 7.1 surround set up, home theater setup and car stereo speaker set up. At low volumes it doesn't really make a difference but at higher volumes and with higher quality output (Dolby and such) there is a big difference (IMHO). The wattage is the most important number because as you turn the volume up the speakers with the lower wattage will not be as loud. The SNR (signal to noise ratio) represents how much noise the equipment puts out in relation to the "signal". A higher SNR means less noise overall.
The Sound Pressure level is "The sensitivity (output SPL) rating of a speaker gives you a rough idea of how loud the speaker will play with a specific amount of power at a specific distance. This speaker (not my z906's) will produce sound at 85 dB, 1 meter away, when it is given an input power of 1 watt." From this web page: http://www.digikey.com/Web%20Export/Supplier%20Content/PUI_668/PDF/PUI_speaker_power_distance.pdf?redirected=1
Frequency response is the range of frequencies a sound system can play. They all go hand in hand with wattage.
If the numbers vary to much it wouldn't produce good surround sound.

Have you ever been in a theater where it seemed one speaker or even sets of speakers were up louder (or down lower) than the others? It ruins the whole surround effect....
Bruce


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> No, nothing else in my build consumes pci-e lanes except the sound card, which is pcie-e 1.0 x1.
> 
> Both cards got x16 lanes on my RIVE, but since switching to the RIVBE for some reason the secondary one is stuck at x8. At least it's running pci-e 3.0 x8, so I don't think there's much of a performance hit, but it's annoying me more than anything else. I didn't spend hundreds of dollars on a mobo upgrade to make do with a "small performance reduction." lol
> 
> I already tried F5'ing back to optimized defaults in case something in my oc was causing the problem, but the card still registered at x8. Tonight I'll try disabling bluetooth, the ASmedia sata controllers, etc and see if I can find anything that's conflicting with it. Under normal circumstances I'd swap the secondary card into the primary slot so I could figure out if it's the pci-e slot that isn't allocated properly or the card that's running below spec, but that's really labor intensive in a watercooled system. :\


1% performance difference between PCIE 3.0 x8 and x16.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> cadaveca: Have you tried KHX24C11T3K4/32X on the RIVBE at 2400 Mhz on a 3930K? Which overclock should I be able to get with that ram at that speed? It is supported by the http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/Rampage_IV_Black_Edition_DIMM_QVL.pdf.
> 
> I think I am stable at 4,5 Ghz @ 1,375 volts with 1866 Mhz ram (it means I am stable in everything else than Prime95)


if you have a good CPU, 2400 no problem. most CPUs will do 2133, too, but I do feel that 2400 is pushing it a bit. This board does allow for higher memory OC overall compared to other boards though, so you may have good luck...

I see 2400 MHz on SB-E the same as trying to get 2933 MHz to boot without boosting vDIO on SKT1150...pretty rare.

But CPU can be poor, and can clock ram like it's nothing... or CPU OC can affect ram OC, and vice versa.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I need matching speakers for equalization of sound. I could do with only matching the 500 watt output but the other numbers matter also. Wanting to keep the numbers matched comes from past experience in a computer 7.1 surround set up, home theater setup and car stereo speaker set up. At low volumes it doesn't really make a difference but at higher volumes and with higher quality output (Dolby and such) there is a big difference (IMHO). The wattage is the most important number because as you turn the volume up the speakers with the lower wattage will not be as loud. The SNR (signal to noise ratio) represents how much noise the equipment puts out in relation to the "signal". A higher SNR means less noise overall.
> The Sound Pressure level is "The sensitivity (output SPL) rating of a speaker gives you a rough idea of how loud the speaker will play with a specific amount of power at a specific distance. This speaker (not my z906's) will produce sound at 85 dB, 1 meter away, when it is given an input power of 1 watt." From this web page: http://www.digikey.com/Web%20Export/Supplier%20Content/PUI_668/PDF/PUI_speaker_power_distance.pdf?redirected=1
> Frequency response is the range of frequencies a sound system can play. They all go hand in hand with wattage.
> If the numbers vary to much it wouldn't produce good surround sound.
> 
> Have you ever been in a theater where it seemed one speaker or even sets of speakers were up louder (or down lower) than the others? It ruins the whole surround effect....
> Bruce


I have a decent understanding of the technical data of speakers and sound in general,but I guess I have never turned my speakers up load enough to find any difference between them... Having run a 7.2 surround system with three different speaker sets, I was not able to discern any significant difference in audio, and have never experienced the audio issue in a theater, that being said, I have also never turned my speakers up so loud that my ears were bleeding either, so I suspect that could also make a difference as well...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I need matching speakers for equalization of sound. I could do with only matching the 500 watt output but the other numbers matter also. Wanting to keep the numbers matched comes from past experience in a computer 7.1 surround set up, home theater setup and car stereo speaker set up. At low volumes it doesn't really make a difference but at higher volumes and with higher quality output (Dolby and such) there is a big difference (IMHO). The wattage is the most important number because as you turn the volume up the speakers with the lower wattage will not be as loud. The SNR (signal to noise ratio) represents how much noise the equipment puts out in relation to the "signal". A higher SNR means less noise overall.
> The Sound Pressure level is "The sensitivity (output SPL) rating of a speaker gives you a rough idea of how loud the speaker will play with a specific amount of power at a specific distance. This speaker (not my z906's) will produce sound at 85 dB, 1 meter away, when it is given an input power of 1 watt." From this web page: http://www.digikey.com/Web%20Export/Supplier%20Content/PUI_668/PDF/PUI_speaker_power_distance.pdf?redirected=1
> Frequency response is the range of frequencies a sound system can play. They all go hand in hand with wattage.
> If the numbers vary to much it wouldn't produce good surround sound.
> 
> *Have you ever been in a theater where it seemed one speaker or even sets of speakers were up louder (or down lower) than the others? It ruins the whole surround effect....*
> Bruce


That's Dolby Digital / DTS doing its job . Its supposed to be like that . 500 watts you need DD HT amp 5.1-100watts per channel


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I have a decent understanding of the technical data of speakers and sound in general,but I guess I have never turned my speakers up load enough to find any difference between them... Having run a 7.2 surround system with three different speaker sets, I was not able to discern any significant difference in audio, and have never experienced the audio issue in a theater, that being said, I have also never turned my speakers up so loud that my ears were bleeding either, so I suspect that could also make a difference as well...


Huh, did you say something? Wait a sec and let me get this blood out of my ear........
I am not necessarily saying the louder the better as there is a limit when the sound does become noise. I apparently still have great hearing (except when playing a video game or watching a good movie/show for some reason...) despite all those years of listening to heavy metal and hard rock amongst other things. But to truly enjoy great surround sound you need to have it up to a decent level. If you happen to have good SNR along with a few other small details then the "details" in the sound are that much more clear and crisp. I believe it is more personal taste than anything as most people are happy with basic sound qualities and don't seem to notice (or don't care about) levels of sound quality. But IMHO most people never really experience high quality surround sound. If you have run a 7.2 system in your home and know of someone who has a sound system they are proud of, maybe take a trip to their house and see if you can tell the difference. Better yet if you can find a store with a few home theater set ups to compare side by side the difference becomes all that much more obvious. I was hooked on stereo sound since I can remember, then when I was about 15 or 16 I had a small 13" tv in my room with single mono speaker. I took it apart and hard wired it to my stereo system that had 4 speakers. It was amazing. The opening scene in the collector's ed of LOTR where Sauron losses his finger and there is that resulting shockwave was simply jaw dropping when I first heard it in Dolby digital on my old 5.1 home theater system. Years before that I first encountered amazing surround sound effects on a PC when playing the original thief, it spooked me so much I walked around my apartment with my dog to make sure all was safe before going to bed....lol, Quality of sound means a lot to me, it can make a difference as to how I see a movie or a video game. Btw, I absolutely hate wearing headphones. I only wear earbuds when listening to music on my phone.
Bruce


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> That's Dolby Digital / DTS doing its job . Its supposed to be like that . 500 watts you need DD HT amp 5.1-100watts per channel


I'm not talking about when DD or DTS is doing its job, I'm talking when the sound system in itself fails or the person monitoring/working on the sound system screws something up. I have been in theaters when this has happened. It really sucks.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I'm not talking about when DD or DTS is doing its job, I'm talking when the sound system in itself fails or the person monitoring/working on the sound system screws something up. I have been in theaters when this has happened. It really sucks.


Ohhh my bad








Never had that happen at the cinema , but I hate when you do a rip and the vid is perfect but audio is out of sync and borks up at a critical point in story.........


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Huh, did you say something? Wait a sec and let me get this blood out of my ear........
> I am not necessarily saying the louder the better as there is a limit when the sound does become noise. I apparently still have great hearing (except when playing a video game or watching a good movie/show for some reason...) despite all those years of listening to heavy metal and hard rock amongst other things. But to truly enjoy great surround sound you need to have it up to a decent level. If you happen to have good SNR along with a few other small details then the "details" in the sound are that much more clear and crisp. I believe it is more personal taste than anything as most people are happy with basic sound qualities and don't seem to notice (or don't care about) levels of sound quality. But IMHO most people never really experience high quality surround sound. If you have run a 7.2 system in your home and know of someone who has a sound system they are proud of, maybe take a trip to their house and see if you can tell the difference. Better yet if you can find a store with a few home theater set ups to compare side by side the difference becomes all that much more obvious. I was hooked on stereo sound since I can remember, then when I was about 15 or 16 I had a small 13" tv in my room with single mono speaker. I took it apart and hard wired it to my stereo system that had 4 speakers. It was amazing. The opening scene in the collector's ed of LOTR where Sauron losses his finger and there is that resulting shockwave was simply jaw dropping when I first heard it in Dolby digital on my old 5.1 home theater system. Years before that I first encountered amazing surround sound effects on a PC when playing the original thief, it spooked me so much I walked around my apartment with my dog to make sure all was safe before going to bed....lol, Quality of sound means a lot to me, it can make a difference as to how I see a movie or a video game. Btw, I absolutely hate wearing headphones. I only wear earbuds when listening to music on my phone.
> Bruce


I did not say louder is better, it was meant as a joke, by saying that I had never turned my hudgepidge 7.1 system up loud enough to make any difference (in reference to your comment that it makes a difference especially at louder volumes), and given that I turned that mess up as loud as I am never willing to have my audio, that is must need to be ear shattering in order for one to discern a difference at all... Haha... Get it...? Although my system right now still needs two speakers and a sub to be 5.1, it is already enough for me, and I am not certain that I even want to run a sub, since my speakers are already pushing enough bass to rattle everything in my room, as well as the things hanging on my wall, AND some of the devices on the entertainment center upstairs, and that us with just a low end Harman Kardon AVR2650 and three Polk 100w speakers (2x45B's, and 1x45C)...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Ohhh my bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never had that happen at the cinema , but I hate when you do a rip and the vid is perfect but audio is out of sync and borks up at a critical point in story.........


I don't do much ripping these days but I have seen it happen and it sucks. Have you ever noticed out of sync audio in TV shows? It was barely noticeable but once I did notice it grated my nerves so much that I had to stop watching the show. My ex didn't even notice it. Something in the sound seemed off so I started paying close attention to the mouths of those talking, it became real obvious real fast.
Sound is oh so important to me. In a way I see it as a lost/never discovered art when it comes to tweaking PC's. Most seem to be more interested in frame rates and video quality than anything to do with sound. Don't get me wrong, frame rates and such are very important, but sound quality should be on par if not a close second to visual stimulation.

In this case what I think I will need to do is what was suggested earlier and that is to find a set of spare satellite speakers for the z906. The only problem is that I would have to wire them into a headphone plug as they are the standard speaker wire ends that connect to standard spring clips on the back of the sub woofer. The wires themselves are a little thick for an easy conversion.

Bruce

Edit: Does anyone on here use their RIVE for quality audio connection? How about some audio editing or the like? If so; do you use the onboard sound or a sound card?


----------



## reev3r

I know what you mean with playing games to spatial audio, and how it feels so lifelike, I remember playing System Shock 2 and experiencing that very same effect, which in itself was not a particularly great audio experience, but at the time I first played it, it was certainly one of the best out there... So much so, that about five years later I went back to play it and I was horrified by how terrible the game was, but that was around when changes were really noticeable, right now you can go back and play games from around 2008 and barely notice a difference, but that was around 2000, and I tried it again in 2004, and it was just terrible to try and play... lol

Anyhow, I love good audio, and I too, have issues with voice tones in my hearing, I can hear most everything fine, except for voices in movies, TV and games, well and people talking I suppose... lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I did not say louder is better, it was meant as a joke, by saying that I had never turned my hudgepidge 7.1 system up loud enough to make any difference (in reference to your comment that it makes a difference especially at louder volumes), and given that I turned that mess up as loud as I am never willing to have my audio, that is must need to be ear shattering in order for one to discern a difference at all... Haha... Get it...? Although my system right now still needs two speakers and a sub to be 5.1, it is already enough for me, and I am not certain that I even want to run a sub, since my speakers are already pushing enough bass to rattle everything in my room, as well as the things hanging on my wall, AND some of the devices on the entertainment center upstairs, and that us with just a low end Harman Kardon AVR2650 and three Polk 100w speakers (2x45B's, and 1x45C)...


Apologies, I didn't catch the sarcasm at first....
Nice set up. I have always wanted to check out a Harmon Kardon set up, not to forget the Polk speakers....There is a possibility that they even sound better than my z906's. Maybe not as loud but possibly better quality. What's the SNR for the Polk's? Do you use the RIVE onboard sound or....?


----------



## Gualichu04

Owned my Asus RIV BE since 04/21/2014 pic is here: Never been added yet.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> if you have a good CPU, 2400 no problem. most CPUs will do 2133, too, but I do feel that 2400 is pushing it a bit. This board does allow for higher memory OC overall compared to other boards though, so you may have good luck...
> 
> I see 2400 MHz on SB-E the same as trying to get 2933 MHz to boot without boosting vDIO on SKT1150...pretty rare.
> 
> But CPU can be poor, and can clock ram like it's nothing... or CPU OC can affect ram OC, and vice versa.


Okay, I see, but I can buy the 2400 Mhz kit and just use it at 2133 Mhz right? It seems to be 35 bucks cheaper than the 2133 Mhz kit ... weird prices.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, I see, but I can buy the 2400 Mhz kit and just use it at 2133 Mhz right? It seems to be 35 bucks cheaper than the 2133 Mhz kit ... weird prices.


Yeah, it should be no problem at all, provided CPU cooperates.

2400 MHz works fine on this board, for sure. But whether anyone will actually be able to run that is more dependent on CPU than board or memory.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, it should be no problem at all, provided CPU cooperates.
> 
> 2400 MHz works fine on this board, for sure. But whether anyone will actually be able to run that is more dependent on CPU than board or memory.


I understand, I am debating over getting new CPU/RAM now or wait and see what Haswell-E has to offer .... more expensive for sure.









Thank you very much for clearing things up for me!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I don't do much ripping these days but I have seen it happen and it sucks. Have you ever noticed out of sync audio in TV shows? It was barely noticeable but once I did notice it grated my nerves so much that I had to stop watching the show. My ex didn't even notice it. Something in the sound seemed off so I started paying close attention to the mouths of those talking, it became real obvious real fast.
> Sound is oh so important to me. In a way I see it as a lost/never discovered art when it comes to tweaking PC's. Most seem to be more interested in frame rates and video quality than anything to do with sound. Don't get me wrong, frame rates and such are very important, but sound quality should be on par if not a close second to visual stimulation.
> 
> In this case what I think I will need to do is what was suggested earlier and that is to find a set of spare satellite speakers for the z906. The only problem is that I would have to wire them into a headphone plug as they are the standard speaker wire ends that connect to standard spring clips on the back of the sub woofer. The wires themselves are a little thick for an easy conversion.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> Edit: Does anyone on here use their RIVE for quality audio connection? How about some audio editing or the like? If so; do you use the onboard sound or a sound card?


Why couldn't you just use an adapter?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Apologies, I didn't catch the sarcasm at first....
> Nice set up. I have always wanted to check out a Harmon Kardon set up, not to forget the Polk speakers....There is a possibility that they even sound better than my z906's. Maybe not as loud but possibly better quality. What's the SNR for the Polk's? Do you use the RIVE onboard sound or....?


Oh, no worries man, I am just glad that you didn't go crazy on me about it. lol
As for the snr for the speakers, I have actually never seen one... Here is a page with the most concise specs, others require you to read three paragraphs to actually find any specs, and even then they are sketchy...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290269

I got them on sale, so it was an even better deal, they really do sound great, and easily better than any set of computer/AIO speakers I have ever owner, or heard for that matter.that being said, I have never had the opportunity to hear the z906's, but I have seen good reviews. I used to have a high end set of Logitech speakers, maybe z5500's(?), they were like $500 or something, and I feel that the sound is much cleaner on these, and I can go a lot louder before I hit any distortion. Although those were the best AIO set I ever owned, this is the best audio experience I have ever owned... I really wish there were some way to send you what it sounds like, so that you would know if yours trump it or not... :-(


----------



## sixsigmamb

On the Asus website there is information concerning using the CPU level up feature of the RIVE Black Ed. bios. They state that the 'mild' overclock settings are preprogrammed by there engineers. I don't know if they are different by processor, ram configuration, gpus, etc?, but mine are 4.1, 4.3, and 4.5. Every setting has my ram speed set at 1333. I realize that every processor will react differently to bios settings, however, the settings that are loaded when I use the CPU level up feature on my bios seem very extreme. For instance, at 4.3, the core voltage is set at 1.4 by the preset settings. The settings in 4.5 will not even boot, yet I have had my processor all the way to 4.8

I am currently running a 4930k with 32gb of Corsair ram 4x8gb quad channel and when I use my XMP profile to take my pc17000 ram up to its XMP rated 21,000mhz rating, all of my o/c settings revert to running my processor at its stock 3.9ghz rating. I am curious if these aforementioned presets are general settings for all ivybridge and sandybridge processors or maybe I have the wrong bios? Does anyone know what series Intel processors these preset bios settings are geared for? Is there a bios version better suited for the 4930k? I am currently running 2.05


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Why couldn't you just use an adapter?


think I may have not explained it the right way (after reading my post that is...lol)
The wires have no connector on the end, just exposed wire. I have to twist the ends together to plug them into the subwoofer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Oh, no worries man, I am just glad that you didn't go crazy on me about it. lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> As for the snr for the speakers, I have actually never seen one... Here is a page with the most concise specs, others require you to read three paragraphs to actually find any specs, and even then they are sketchy...
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290269
> I got them on sale, so it was an even better deal, they really do sound great, and easily better than any set of computer/AIO speakers I have ever owner, or heard for that matter.that being said, I have never had the opportunity to hear the z906's, but I have seen good reviews. I used to have a high end set of Logitech speakers, maybe z5500's(?), they were like $500 or something, and I feel that the sound is much cleaner on these, and I can go a lot louder before I hit any distortion. Although those were the best AIO set I ever owned, this is the best audio experience I have ever owned... I really wish there were some way to send you what it sounds like, so that you would know if yours trump it or not... :-(


Unfortunately there is no real way to tell the difference unless you compare them in the same environment, or have some high level sound monitoring equipment...

I had my speakers up to about 25% today and I could hear clearly hear them most of the way through the house. The subwoofer was only up to about %20 and I could feel the thump all through the house. I was doing some cleaning but still had to be mindful of the people who live here...lol. In my room the sound was simply amazing, I had it on one of the DTS settings. Oddly enough some youtube videos sound really good through these speakers. My niece went into my room and I asked her how it sounded when she came out, she said she had to go to the ear doctor so she could hear again...lol

My first set of PC speakers were colored egg shell white and had a sub woofer with two desktop speaker units that had two speakers in each unit, with the top one at a slight angle. They simulated surround really good. I don't remember the name of them but they came out in the mid to late 90's. They weren't that expensive and I would've recommended them to anyone. I think they came with my old Dell P2 350mhz system. They sounded awesome and were apart of the "hodge podge" 7.1 surround system I put together about 10 years ago. At the right volume it sounded really cool. I would like to see how they sound next to the z906's, they might not be as loud but I think they would give the z906's a run for their money.

I have read you can't really achieve true surround sound through speakers. Over the ear headphones are apparently the best way to get as close to true surround.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> On the Asus website there is information concerning using the CPU level up feature of the RIVE Black Ed. bios. They state that the 'mild' overclock settings are preprogrammed by there engineers. I don't know if they are different by processor, ram configuration, gpus, etc?, but mine are 4.1, 4.3, and 4.5. Every setting has my ram speed set at 1333. I realize that every processor will react differently to bios settings, however, the settings that are loaded when I use the CPU level up feature on my bios seem very extreme. For instance, at 4.3, the core voltage is set at 1.4 by the preset settings. The settings in 4.5 will not even boot, yet I have had my processor all the way to 4.8
> 
> I am currently running a 4930k with 32gb of Corsair ram 4x8gb quad channel and when I use my XMP profile to take my pc17000 ram up to its XMP rated 21,000mhz rating, all of my o/c settings revert to running my processor at its stock 3.9ghz rating. I am curious if these aforementioned presets are general settings for all ivybridge and sandybridge processors or maybe I have the wrong bios? Does anyone know what series Intel processors these preset bios settings are geared for? Is there a bios version better suited for the 4930k? I am currently running 2.05


Almost none of us use their presets because they are designed to work with the worst case chips as well as the best, and can seriously over volt some settings, reducing the life expectancy of said chip. Most of us here spend an excessive amount of time experimenting with settings to find the lowest voltages that will work for our particular chip. Chips are not identical, and the only guarantee we have is that they should work similarly at stock settings. When we overclock them we find quite a variation in what suits.

You can say, start with those settings and reduce them untill you reach instability, and then go back two increments, as a general rule of thumb, but not every setting works that way. It's worth searching for overclocking guides for your chip and comparing them.


----------



## sixsigmamb

On the Asus website, there is information concerning using the CPU level up feature included in the bios of the RIVE Black
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Almost none of us use their presets because they are designed to work with the worst case chips as well as the best, and can seriously over volt some settings, reducing the life expectancy of said chip. Most of us here spend an excessive amount of time experimenting with settings to find the lowest voltages that will work for our particular chip. Chips are not identical, and the only guarantee we have is that they should work similarly at stock settings. When we overclock them we find quite a variation in what suits.
> 
> You can say, start with those settings and reduce them untill you reach instability, and then go back two increments, as a general rule of thumb, but not every setting works that way. It's worth searching for overclocking guides for your chip and comparing them.


Thank you for the information. One of the biggest issues I have with this board is getting confused from all the hype I read from reviewers of the same and the actual technical references released from Asus about this board. I have been very fortunate with getting my processor OC'd and stable but when I have tried to get up to the rated speed of my ram, my system keeps blue screening. I obtained the program bluescreen viewer and the codes kept indicating that my processor was under powered.

Doing some more research and talking to the folks at Corsair, they suggested that I raise my vssca to 120-125. I set it at 121 and was able to at least reach the 21k MHz that my rams XMP profile provides the mb. I have never messed with that voltage before and do not understand exactly what it does, only that it worked. Thank God I have a Intel Tuners warranty....lol.

One other question, do you think I am actually impeding my systems performance by running 32gb of RAM? My thinking on that subject was that I wanted to run quad channel and I had two 8gb sticks to start with. Instead of just shelving the two 8gb sticks, I bought two more so that I could run quad channel. Do you think I would be better off running just one stick? Two?'


----------



## szeged

your cpu might be a great overclocker but its IMC might be crap unfortunately =\


----------



## alancsalt

I understand it's rare to get a chip that is both a good overclocker and has a good IMC?

vccsa and vtt cpu voltage you try to keep at 1.2 or less AFAIK.

large amounts of ram i haven't used. only needed for a few things, like batch file processing, rendering, virtualisation and probably a few more specific applications..

for a gamer say, not necessary...

Does it still hold that 4GB sticks perform better than 8GB? I remember reading something like that..latency? Anyone remember?

anyway, harder to run a large amount at 2400MHz say..some find they have to settle for 1600MHz...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

4x4gb - 16gb quad ch @ 2400 C10 / C9 is hell of a lot easier to get stable ( for me ) than 32gb worth fer sure less load on IMC at any given speed .........


----------



## sixsigmamb

Do these temps, frequency and voltage look normal?


----------



## sixsigmamb

There is no substitute for good components. I scored this with a 4.3 overclock, my RAM on XMP setting and with my video cards running stock.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I understand it's rare to get a chip that is both a good overclocker and has a good IMC?
> 
> vccsa and vtt cpu voltage you try to keep at 1.2 or less AFAIK.
> 
> large amounts of ram i haven't used. only needed for a few things, like batch file processing, rendering, virtualisation and probably a few more specific applications..
> 
> for a gamer say, not necessary...
> 
> Does it still hold that 4GB sticks perform better than 8GB? I remember reading something like that..latency? Anyone remember?
> 
> anyway, harder to run a large amount at 2400MHz say..some find they have to settle for 1600MHz...


Pretty much how it is, + rep for you!


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> There is no substitute for good components. I scored this with a 4.3 overclock, my RAM on XMP setting and with my video cards running stock.


I am so glad that I was able to solve my memory problems. Now I can build the other two identical systems, give one away to the local battered woman's shelter. one to the no kill animal shelter here and one to the Big Brothers of America charter here. Finally, when all that is done, I can start on my own system.


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Pretty much how it is, + rep for you!


Alan is exceptionally smart. A person could learn a lot by just following him around for a week reading his posts. He definitely helped me. Now I just have to figure out how to give some one a rep.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> One other question, do you think I am actually impeding my systems performance by running 32gb of RAM? My thinking on that subject was that I wanted to run quad channel and I had two 8gb sticks to start with. Instead of just shelving the two 8gb sticks, I bought two more so that I could run quad channel. Do you think I would be better off running just one stick? Two?'


It's my understanding that with any 2011 chipset you need to run at least 4 sticks of ram for best performance. I have read in some cases the system will not even boot up with less than 4 sticks. In days past when the max ram opened up to 16gb and beyond it was tested and documented (Maximum PC) that an excessive amount of ram would bog down your system and it would run slower on many if not all applications. It was recommended that only those doing video editing or working with high end graphics programs should use that excessive amount of ram. But from what I understand nowadays those problems have been removed and the only real issue with having an excessive amount of ram is the money you spend and the fact that you will probably never really use it all. Unless of course you work with high end graphics programs or are a "more power!" kind of guy (insert "Home Improvement" tv show laugh), like me









In reading the user manual the RIVBE goes a step further by allowing you to use some of your ram as a ramdisk, to store pieces of data for quicker response times in a lot of programs.
If your just a gamer you (currently) need no more than 8gb of ram but 16,32, or even 64gb shouldn't hurt your performance as long as you have at least 4 strips of the same kind in the system. I don't think you can get DDR3 ram in less than 4gb per strip (not sure) so you're limited to no less than 16gb.

EDIT: that is except for the example HC gave:
Quote:


> 4x4gb - 16gb quad ch @ 2400 C10 / C9 is hell of a lot easier to get stable ( for me ) than 32gb worth fer sure less load on IMC at any given speed


These are just my humble opinions so if there are any errors in what I said I hope someone else will kindly correct me.









Bruce


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> Alan is exceptionally smart. A person could learn a lot by just following him around for a week reading his posts. He definitely helped me. Now I just have to figure out how to give some one a rep.


I'm seeing that he does seem to know what he is talking about. I attempted to give him a +1 when I first joined this forum and he helped me out. Unfortunately he is one of those missing the "+rep" button that is listed on most of the other people on this forum (next to the multi, quote and reply buttons) . It may have something to with the fact he is a senior moderator.

Bruce


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It's my understanding that with any 2011 chipset you need to run at least 4 sticks of ram for best performance. I have read in some cases the system will not even boot up with less than 4 sticks. In days past when the max ram opened up to 16gb and beyond it was tested and documented (Maximum PC) that an excessive amount of ram would bog down your system and it would run slower on many if not all applications. It was recommended that only those doing video editing or working with high end graphics programs should use that excessive amount of ram. But from what I understand nowadays those problems have been removed and the only real issue with having an excessive amount of ram is the money you spend and the fact that you will probably never really use it all. Unless of course you work with high end graphics programs or are a "more power!" kind of guy (insert "Home Improvement" tv show laugh), like me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In reading the user manual the RIVBE goes a step further by allowing you to use some of your ram as a ramdisk, to store pieces of data for quicker response times in a lot of programs.
> If your just a gamer you (currently) need no more than 8gb of ram but 16,32, or even 64gb shouldn't hurt your performance as long as you have at least 4 strips of the same kind in the system. I don't think you can get DDR3 ram in less than 4gb per strip (not sure) so you're limited to no less than 16gb.
> 
> These are just my humble opinions so if there are any errors in what I said I hope someone else will kindly correct me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce


I have never had systems until recently with more than 8gb of RAM. The system I built and donated to a underprivileged child this past month, I used 16gb of the same RAM I have now. The previous system was built with an X79 Sabertooth board with a 4930k processor. I did not have any challenge getting it to post or running good. With 32gb of the same RAM running quad channel, I have had a lot of issues with getting my RAM speed up. One call to a systems engineer at Corsair and my current rig is running extremely well now. I have some more tweaking to do, but I have two identical builds I need to get completed so that I can get them to the organizations I am donating them to, then I will start on my own build. My next build will be running 4 sticks of 4gb RAM and I will be using the new Corsair Platinum RAM on my own build. I will have definitely have fun learning more about tweaking that much ram.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> Alan is exceptionally smart. A person could learn a lot by just following him around for a week reading his posts. He definitely helped me. Now I just have to figure out how to give some one a rep.


Alancsalt here doesn't get rep. He already knows he's special.









Actually, I've been overly impressed with how helpful everyone here really is. We don't always agree on stuff, but we're all trying to help, anyway.


----------



## tistou77

I changed the motherboard is more cold boot problem (bios reset to 0) 3 days
So it was a hardware problem and not OC

I took the opportunity to turn the CPU waterblock to 90 ° and I won temperature on the cores (as shown in several tests)


----------



## alancsalt

Yeah OK, I'm squirming!









I thank youse all for your very kind words...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *maxxx.ph*
> 
> Folks, a little question. Does having a block covering most of the motherboard help in reducing heat or its just for the looks? I saw this Bitspower block so I asked this question. TIA!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It´s for the look and btw the EK Block looks way better then the bitspower one !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/489/19/EK-introduces-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-AIO-water-cooling-solution/
Click to expand...

When EK first announced their full board RIVBE block almost everyone here posted negative opinions of how it looked. I don't recall anyone saying anything good about it. It took a bit of getting used to. Now that Bitspower has released one it'll probably take a bit of getting used to also. I figure I'll withold my opinion at least until I get a chance to see that all black combo used in a build with GPUs and ram and tubing, ... etc

Juthos posted these in the Bitspower Club thread ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Fullcover block for RIVBE


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I hope all of you (which are debating on water cooling your RIVBE) are aware of the pit falls of the new "Monoblock" that is realeased. I ordered a new sample (brand new from a Norwegian shop), the package was sealed when I got it.

Even though I was unable to use it because the M3(?) screws which holds the block together came with too long screws (I am not the first where this is the deal), there are in total 10x M3 screws that are too long and to set it all in perspective my package also did not include the M4 PVC-washers, only M3. You can sort this out with an e-mail to EKWB.com directly and get them to send you new screws and PVC-washers, I on the other hand is returning it and getting the "normal" blocks for the RIVBE with seperate Mosfet/Chipset cooling and an EK-Supremacy, blocks that do not fit by default = trash to me, the Monoblock I bought will be returned to the shop I bought it from then back to EKWB.com. Just be aware of this before you buy the EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock. It is been talked about this problem on OCN before, but there seems to be just a lottery if you get a block with too long screws or not.

And I for one think the original EK-FB ASUS R4BE looks better than the Monoblock, but that is just me.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> Alan is exceptionally smart. A person could learn a lot by just following him around for a week reading his posts. He definitely helped me. Now I just have to figure out how to give some one a rep.


Mr. Salt is a Moderator... so his rep button is disabled. otherwise just hit the "rep" button here:


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Oh Mr Salt...









And congrats on the new scores via sweet psus!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Oh Mr Salt...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And congrats on the new scores via sweet psus!


lol


----------



## alancsalt

When it's you that says that MrTOOSHORT, I value it that bit more. (the second bit...)

I'm at a stage where further clock increases are getting me a DX error in 3d11 as Combined finishes. I am thinking this could be a heat issue, but I'm not always right...
If that suggests anything else to you, I'm open to suggestion.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It's my understanding that with any 2011 chipset you need to run at least 4 sticks of ram for best performance. I have read in some cases the system will not even boot up with less than 4 sticks. In days past when the max ram opened up to 16gb and beyond it was tested and documented (Maximum PC) that an excessive amount of ram would bog down your system and it would run slower on many if not all applications. It was recommended that only those doing video editing or working with high end graphics programs should use that excessive amount of ram. But from what I understand nowadays those problems have been removed and the only real issue with having an excessive amount of ram is the money you spend and the fact that you will probably never really use it all. Unless of course you work with high end graphics programs or are a "more power!" kind of guy (insert "Home Improvement" tv show laugh), like me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In reading the user manual the RIVBE goes a step further by allowing you to use some of your ram as a ramdisk, to store pieces of data for quicker response times in a lot of programs.
> If your just a gamer you (currently) need no more than 8gb of ram but 16,32, or even 64gb shouldn't hurt your performance as long as you have at least 4 strips of the same kind in the system. I don't think you can get DDR3 ram in less than 4gb per strip (not sure) so you're limited to no less than 16gb.
> 
> EDIT: that is except for the example HC gave:
> These are just my humble opinions so if there are any errors in what I said I hope someone else will kindly correct me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce


I have 32 GB of Rip JawsZ at 2133 and have no problems on my RIVBE. I had the Rampage IV Extreme and had problems with the motherboard after 2 years and was forced to use 2 sticks of 8 GB Kingston DDR3 with no problems. However, having lots of RAM (32-64GB) slows down the Bios boot phase because it counts and does a rudimentary check of the installed memory; more, the slower.
I am fine with 32 GB because I use a Ramdisk (Not ASUS but AMD - free and better) to 4 GB and use that RamDisk as a temporary folder so everything that is cached and temp goes there; set the environment settings. I have the SSD's in a RAID0 and don't want extra writings on them so the Temp folder in RAM is perfect. All the other RAM is not used; too bad.
One more thing, my RAM is X.M.P. and the settings are automatically set; nice. The RAM speed is of no consequence for the LGA2011 because INTEL website says (i7-4930k) the RAM speed max is 1833 so going over this amount did not cause a crash, it just keeps working, not sure how.
Hope this helps.


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> I have 32 GB of Rip JawsZ at 2133 and have no problems on my RIVBE. I had the Rampage IV Extreme and had problems with the motherboard after 2 years and was forced to use 2 sticks of 8 GB Kingston DDR3 with no problems. However, having lots of RAM (32-64GB) slows down the Bios boot phase because it counts and does a rudimentary check of the installed memory; more, the slower.
> I am fine with 32 GB because I use a Ramdisk (Not ASUS but AMD - free and better) to 4 GB and use that RamDisk as a temporary folder so everything that is cached and temp goes there; set the environment settings. I have the SSD's in a RAID0 and don't want extra writings on them so the Temp folder in RAM is perfect. All the other RAM is not used; too bad.
> One more thing, my RAM is X.M.P. and the settings are automatically set; nice. The RAM speed is of no consequence for the LGA2011 because INTEL website says (i7-4930k) the RAM speed max is 1833 so going over this amount did not cause a crash, it just keeps working, not sure how.
> Hope this helps.


I am at 2133 as well on a 4930k and having no problems with it now. I am interested in learning how you set up your ram disc. Could you please provide the link for it? I am not impressed with the ASUS Rom program either.


----------



## Mega Man

impossible, 2133 maybe, 21333.... not gonna happen -


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> I am at 21333 as well on a 4930k and having no problems with it now. I am interested in learning how you set up your ram disc. Could you please provide the link for it? I am not impressed with the ASUS Rom program either.


Looks like a typo with the RAM freq.
The website:
http://www.radeonmemory.com/software_downloads.php
4GB max unless you own AMD RAM or buy a version to have a bigger RAM Disk
Craig


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> I am at 21333 as well on a 4930k and having no problems with it now. I am interested in learning how you set up your ram disc. Could you please provide the link for it? I am not impressed with the ASUS Rom program either.


Here is the details how to setup; not a professional but this way worked for me.
website: http://www.radeonmemory.com/software_downloads.php
download the free version. If you want a bigger RamDisk, you have to buy it.
Install it and check mark the options to save and re-load files during boot and shutdown so you don't loose any info. If you don't care about the temp files, don't save them.
Check mark for the TEMP directory on the RAM Disk; important
Right click Computer->properties->Advance system Settings->Environment Variables.
Edit TEMP and TMP to the drive letter that your RamDisk is on (mine is Z) and put Z:\TEMP and Z:\TEMP for both variables.
in the bottom window, scroll down to find the TEMP and TMP, change to like above.
If for some reason your Ramdisk doesn't start, you will have an invalid TEMP folder/drive and errors will occur. So, make a TEMP directory in one of your HDD and not use it unless something goes wrong with your RamDisk, then all you have to do is change the Drive letter for your TEMP and TMP variables.
This should help make your SSD(s) live longer and it will speed things up a bit too.
Oh, change your cache in your browser to the RamDisk so the internet will be faster too.
hope this helps
Craig


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> impossible, 2133 maybe, 21333.... not gonna happen -


Excuse me for the typo. Island knows what I meant, so......


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Looks like a typo with the RAM freq.
> The website:
> http://www.radeonmemory.com/software_downloads.php
> 4GB max unless you own AMD RAM or buy a version to have a bigger RAM Disk
> Craig


Yeah, those pesky three keys sticking...lol. But I think you got the point that I was saying I was at the same speed as you.


----------



## Mega Man

removed by me as it was a comment spawned in anger, and is against what we stand for at OCN


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> removed by me as it was a comment spawned in anger, and is against what we stand for at OCN


You removed it because anyone can see your clearly wrong: You posted this quote from me:

"I don't play computer games. *I have four GTX Titan Z's on order for my next build* and I wanted to find out what difference a 4th GPU would make to my current system I just built three weeks ago. The third one definitely made a difference, well, as far as 3DMark scores are concerned. I jumped up almost 4000 points with the third gpu coming in at a low 20100 mark. I am wondering if I could get to 24-25k with a fourth card."

What reasonable person could possibly comprehend that I claim to have four GTX Titan Z's in a quad fire configuration from this: " I have four GTX Titan Z's on order for my next build "

Then you stated that I allegedly said:

i owned a exotic car dealership here in texas, and i was the first person to sell cars on ebay back in 2005 and had the highest rating on ebay ) however you either deleted it or it was deleted by a mod, in that quote you talked abouty how you acctually owned a mclaren ill see if anyone from that thread would like to chime in to see if they remember any of this

Your other reference to exotic car dealers and McClaren involves a conversation with another member where I told her what I did for a living, my internet experience and about some of the cars I own now and have owned in the past. No where in anything I have ever said, claims I currently own a McLaren. In fact here is the post where I talk about my current vehicles including pictures:

"I have a 370Z and a Shelby Cobra, both 2014 models, but I don't drive them at 180 plus 24/7 Yet, I spent the money on them so that when I feel the need to go that fast or faster, I have what I need to do it."

The link to that post and pictures of my cars are at: http://www.overclock.net/t/1151946/official-asus-rog-rampage-iv-x79-owners-club/9160

Finally, my signature includes my current build. If you for some reason can't find what video cards I claim to have in my system, please note the following:

*
Graphics

EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Superclocked - EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Superclocked - EVGA GeFoirce GTX 780 Superclocked*

Megaman, I think your biggest problem is that your quick to anger and evidently have some reading comprehension problems. Here is a link to some free learning material for better reading comprehension:

http://www.readingcomprehensionconnection.com/

Please don't ever say I never did anything for you!


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Here is the details how to setup; not a professional but this way worked for me.
> website: http://www.radeonmemory.com/software_downloads.php
> download the free version. If you want a bigger RamDisk, you have to buy it.
> Install it and check mark the options to save and re-load files during boot and shutdown so you don't loose any info. If you don't care about the temp files, don't save them.
> Check mark for the TEMP directory on the RAM Disk; important
> Right click Computer->properties->Advance system Settings->Environment Variables.
> Edit TEMP and TMP to the drive letter that your RamDisk is on (mine is Z) and put Z:\TEMP and Z:\TEMP for both variables.
> in the bottom window, scroll down to find the TEMP and TMP, change to like above.
> If for some reason your Ramdisk doesn't start, you will have an invalid TEMP folder/drive and errors will occur. So, make a TEMP directory in one of your HDD and not use it unless something goes wrong with your RamDisk, then all you have to do is change the Drive letter for your TEMP and TMP variables.
> This should help make your SSD(s) live longer and it will speed things up a bit too.
> Oh, change your cache in your browser to the RamDisk so the internet will be faster too.
> hope this helps
> Craig


Thank-you for this it works great!


----------



## 113802

Not sure if you guys know but you can download ROG Ramdisk from Asus driver download page for our motherboards under utilities. It allows us to utilize all of our ram.

Beside that the reason I came here was because my buddy also has this board but his random turns on within 2-5 hours every time he shuts it down. When he disables fast boot in Windows the computer will stay off. Anyone have a similar issue with their board?

I think it's due to a scheduled task from Windows triggering it to wake up.


----------



## Shadowarez

Does he have ai suite 3 installed if so get him to check if ai charger is enabled it caused same issue for me.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Not sure if you guys know but you can download ROG Ramdisk from Asus driver download page for our motherboards under utilities. It allows us to utilize all of our ram.
> 
> Beside that the reason I came here was because my buddy also has this board but his random turns on within 2-5 hours every time he shuts it down. When he disables fast boot in Windows the computer will stay off. Anyone have a similar issue with their board?
> 
> I think it's due to a scheduled task from Windows triggering it to wake up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Does he have ai suite 3 installed if so get him to check if ai charger is enabled it caused same issue for me.


Disable "wake from Lan" and wake on USB might help too.


----------



## Fidelitas

I was experiencing the same problem. I have my AICharger application disabled in my startup. I called tech support at Asus and they advised me to check and see if I have my allow remote connections set to enable. I did so and knock on wood, the problem has not come up again.


----------



## Fidelitas

*Disable "wake from Lan" and wake on USB might help too.*

How do you disable those options? Is that a software or bios setting?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> *Disable "wake from Lan" and wake on USB might help too.*
> 
> How do you disable those options? Is that a software or bios setting?


bios. and also set this to disabled in your windows power settings:



and check these:


----------



## Fidelitas

Thank you. I will definitely give it a try. One other question you might be able to help me with. Is there software that comes with the RIBE or freeware that you can monitor how many total watts your components are drawing when everything is kicked in to high gear?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Thank you. I will definitely give it a try. One other question you might be able to help me with. Is there software that comes with the RIBE or freeware that you can monitor how many total watts your components are drawing when everything is kicked in to high gear?


not really. At least, there's nothing that's fully accurate. You need to buy other hardware to be able to do so.


----------



## Shadowarez

Well under win7 my ups I got has a app that show how much my rig is using. Funny thing is my entire rig at full boar with monitor and router,cable dvr,cable modem and server draw 350-375 watts.

My 55" samsung tv I got free with recent bed draws about 560-575 watts lol.
Only way I knew that was I plugged it into ups as I was having alot of blackouts that month like 3-4 a day for hours at a time.


----------



## sixsigmamb

Try a Fluke 87V


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Well under win7 my ups I got has a app that show how much my rig is using. Funny thing is my entire rig at full boar with monitor and router,cable dvr,cable modem and server draw 350-375 watts.
> 
> My 55" samsung tv I got free with recent bed draws about 560-575 watts lol.
> Only way I knew that was I plugged it into ups as I was having alot of blackouts that month like 3-4 a day for hours at a time.


I am not so sure your UPS app is telling you correct, as your processor and GPU's at full bore should be pulling at least 700w.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> I am not so sure your UPS app is telling you correct, as your processor and GPU's at full bore should be pulling at least 700w.


Yeah, about that, with no OC on the GPUs... probably closer to 850W with GPU OC, if not more.


----------



## Shadowarez

Hmm it must be halving it then the ups is onky rated for 900 watts. But either way its gettin pure sinwave clean power. Means that junky tv is using near a kilowatt of power. Time to get a energy efficient tv.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Finally there just might be a glimmer of hope for this 4930k / BE combo after all . Might be a low clock to start BUT it accepted for the first time 125 strap and 2666 XMP as well









http://valid.x86.fr/npv2vc
So far 4.7 is max clock with lots of bsod 124 and same with [email protected]








http://valid.x86.fr/vf2t13


----------



## Shadowarez

I can run 4.8Ghz 100 strap never gets above 50c on any core. Not a single bsod till I try run prime. Instant I hit start in prime insta bsod lol.


----------



## Mega Man

i run 4.7, 100strap 2400mgz cl10 on my RIVBE/3930k


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah from what iv read and seen Sandy was a far better ocer then this ivy-E figured the imc would be stronger on ivy-e though I put 32 Gb of Corsair Dominator Platinums st 2400 mhz xmp according to rog that could be whats limiting my Oc too muvh stress on imc.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Thank you. I will definitely give it a try. One other question you might be able to help me with. Is there software that comes with the RIBE or freeware that you can monitor how many total watts your components are drawing when everything is kicked in to high gear?


you can get a "killAwatt" meter for like $20. works for what you wnat to know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Well under win7 my ups I got has a app that show how much my rig is using. Funny thing is my entire rig at full boar with monitor and router,cable dvr,cable modem and server draw 350-375 watts.
> 
> My 55" samsung tv I got free with recent bed draws about 560-575 watts lol.
> Only way I knew that was I plugged it into ups as I was having alot of blackouts that month like 3-4 a day for hours at a time.


as the others said, that seems a bit low. 400w on the UPS with.. say 80% efficiency in the PSU, it's even lower.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I can run 4.8Ghz 100 strap never gets above 50c on any core. Not a single bsod till I try run prime. *Instant I hit start in prime* insta bsod lol.


Check that you have these two boxes checked and are using the most recent version:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







so what stability assessment did you use? IBT? Also check the WHEA folder in Windows services (under Event Viewer) to see if you are accumulating machine-check-errors (WHEA).

did you raise the cpu current in bio above Auto (=140%)? Just set it to 180%.


----------



## Shadowarez

I got a Evga supernova 1500watt running the rig. I need a tester lol to see what my rig is drawing.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Thank you. I will definitely give it a try. One other question you might be able to help me with. Is there software that comes with the RIBE or freeware that you can monitor how many total watts your components are drawing when everything is kicked in to high gear?


Fortunately, however, such devices can be had for as low as $20, I actually have a surge suppressor that monitors ten outlets at a time, so I can see how much every part of my system consumes as a whole, or simply power off devices to see how much each device consumes...

I was able to obtain mine for about $30, but normally they cost about $80. :-(

Check out the Kill-a-watt, these are around $20, they are very common as well. There are some more expensive units that can be monitored remotely, mostly the Belkin well modules... Unfortunately, for me at least, they are prohibitively expensive. :-( I really want the wemo motion switch and wemo light switch.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I got a Evga supernova 1500watt running the rig. I need a tester lol to see what my rig is drawing.


killAwatt meter.


----------



## Fidelitas

Originally Posted by Shadowarez

I got a Evga supernova 1500watt running the rig. I need a tester lol to see what my rig is drawing.

If the lights dim in your house when you turn that monster on, you know your eating some juice.

My frequency on my processor is always off. What I mean by that is that my normal clock speed is 4.5. But most of the time when I am monitoring it with ROG CPU-Z it will read 4499.9 Is that some quirk with the RIBE, or do I probably have something not set right? I have my BLCK set to 100.000 if that helps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> CPU Batch # Section for IB-E's (Should dump this in the IB-E club if there is one)
> 
> Batch #'s
> 
> -4960X-
> 3320A573 ES (4.5GHz cinebench @ 1.4v) (4.99ghz @ 1.496V)
> 3321A576 ES (4.7GHz cinebench @ 1.35v, (5005 Mhz @ 1.472v) 5750MHz 3DMark vantage @ 1.7v LN2, CB -150 )
> 3330A936 (4,8 GHz cinebench @ 1,50v)
> 3325A993 5GHz / 1.42v
> 
> -4930K-
> 3320A829 ES (4.6GHz cinebench @ 1.4v)
> 3326B664 (5.0GHz cinebench @ 1.256v SS cooling)
> 3328A983 (4.6GHz cinebench @ 1.4v, 5650MHz 3DMark vantage @ 1.7v LN2, no CB)
> 3325A911 @ 4.7GHz cinebench @ 1.29 volt air-cooling
> No CB but CBB at -170 which is not bad
> 4,7 GHz primestable at 1,32 Volt on air
> 5,8 GHz Vantage stable at 1,75 Volt
> 5,85 GHz wPrime stable at 1,75 Volt
> 3326A994 4.6 GHz Cinebench 11.5 @ 1.4V air cooling 5 GHz under SS @ -45 with 1.55V
> 3327A694 cine [email protected] ss -40 / [email protected] cascade -102
> 3326B662 4650 6/12ht vantage cpu test 1.43v/water
> 3332BXXX 4600 1.3V vantage max on ln2 5400 vantage 5500 3D11
> 3326B667 ( Cinebench @ 4.9 / 1.4v ) 4.7ghz at 1.37v on a H100 Temps Sit around 65-70C Full Load with Prime
> These puppies overclock better when you raise the BLCK instead of just going Multi only.
> 3332B081 (4500 1.2v vantage & cinebench ) (4700 1.35v vantage & cinebench) (5000 6c/6t 1.48v 32m)
> 3326B668 4.7ghz @ 1.392v
> 
> -4820K-
> 3325A984 (4.9GHz cinebench @ 1.5v)
> 3327A808 (5ghz @ 1.424v)


What do the numbers before the stats reflect. I.E *3320A573* ES (4.5GHz cinebench @ 1.4v) (4.99ghz @ 1.496V)


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Finally there just might be a glimmer of hope for this 4930k / BE combo after all . Might be a low clock to start BUT it accepted for the first time 125 strap and 2666 XMP as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/npv2vc
> So far 4.7 is max clock with lots of bsod 124 and same with [email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/vf2t13


Ok, I give, how did you do that? and at 16 degrees C? are you using Nitrogen?
Can you share your bios setup to get to 4.7Mhz? please?
thanks in advance


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Ok, I give, how did you do that? and at 16 degrees C? are you using Nitrogen?
> Can you share your bios setup to get to 4.7Mhz? please?
> thanks in advance


i posted offset OC bios shots for 4.7 some months ago. how about 4.750 or 4.875?

(pssst - HCPC has a 1HP water chiller, LN2 would be -150C) I would like to see his setting too!









here's 4.7/2133 offset (key parameter id "additional Turbo Voltage")

140625190846.zip 1928k .zip file


4.750 Fixed vcore:

140804134623.zip 1229k .zip file



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















@fidelitas - those are batch numbers.

*AND* - that 4499.9 thing is because cpuZ can't multiply !


----------



## inlandchris

Jpmboy:
Really appriciate that. I was looking in your previous posts and found over 5k posts;wow, retired but not that retired. Yes, your bios I will try to model after I get my i7-4930k back from the shop and installed.
Again, thank you!


----------



## Mega Man

@Fidelitas

You will always have minor fluctuations with black nothing you can do about it


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Jpmboy:
> Really appriciate that. I was looking in your previous posts and found over 5k posts;wow, retired but not that retired. Yes, your bios I will try to model after I get my i7-4930k back from the shop and installed.
> Again, thank you!


you're welcome.


----------



## Ubeermench

My Formula IV ram slots and pci-e slots died. Asus couldn't repair my board so they upgraded me to the black edition. Should be here tomorrow









Took a month to RMA my board =/


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Ok, I give, how did you do that? and at 16 degrees C? are you using Nitrogen?
> Can you share your bios setup to get to 4.7Mhz? please?
> thanks in advance


All of my setting are ..... LoooooooL .... in the bios first page ....... stable at 4.5 wont boot in and load any higher than 4.7 lots and lots of bsod's 124 but does xmp 2666 , blck steps up to 180mhz .......

HOMECINEMA-PC [email protected]@1444 180.5blck P95 blend 30mins

http://valid.x86.fr/w5iatr

[email protected] 180mhz blck
http://valid.x86.fr/teqmpd

[email protected] XMP 125 strap








http://valid.x86.fr/mjnq8x
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> i posted offset OC bios shots for 4.7 some months ago. how about 4.750 or 4.875?
> 
> *(pssst - HCPC has a 1HP water chiller, LN2 would be -150C) I would like to see his setting too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> here's 4.7/2133 offset (key parameter id "additional Turbo Voltage")
> 
> 140625190846.zip 1928k .zip file
> 
> 
> 4.750 Fixed vcore:
> 
> 140804134623.zip 1229k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @fidelitas - those are batch numbers.
> 
> *AND* - that 4499.9 thing is because cpuZ can't multiply !


Yes I do










Your settings are better








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @Fidelitas
> 
> You will always have minor fluctuations with black nothing you can do about it


Hows your reading assignment going ? LooooL









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubeermench*
> 
> My Formula IV ram slots and pci-e slots died. Asus couldn't repair my board so they upgraded me to the black edition. Should be here tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a month to RMA my board =/


That's a nice upgrade man








Are you running ivy or sandy ??


----------



## ChrisxIxCross

Hi I know this is a bit of a unusual request but if any of you guys still have their RoG magnetic case badge https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15814165/ROGmagnet5.JPG and you're not using it I was wondering If I could purchase it off of you.

Thanks,
ChrisxIxCross


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisxIxCross*
> 
> Hi I know this is a bit of a unusual request but if any of you guys still have their RoG magnetic case badge https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15814165/ROGmagnet5.JPG and you're not using it I was wondering If I could purchase it off of you.
> 
> Thanks,
> ChrisxIxCross


FYI: The magnetic case badge is perfect to use to depress the ram latches, especially in the tight space between a memory stick and a gpu in the top slot on the RIVBE which is otherwise virtually impossible to get to without taking out the top card. I believe it might have been designed to be used that way on purpose.


----------



## Mega Man

but it straches when you do that


----------



## ChrisxIxCross

Lol seriously guys I would really like to buy yours if its just lying around doing nothing in a box.







Please send PM if interested.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisxIxCross*
> 
> Lol seriously guys I would really like to buy yours if its just lying around doing nothing in a box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please send PM if interested.


I probably have it... what does it look like?


----------



## ChrisxIxCross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I probably have it... what does it look like?


----------



## Kimir

Hmm, I see that aquatuning is selling that Hailea chiller, I suppose that kind of thing consume quite a lot on it's own, but sure look the way to go before going extreme.
saving that into my bookmarks.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisxIxCross*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yeah I got it- still in the plastic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Hmm, I see that aquatuning is selling that Hailea chiller, I suppose that kind of thing consume quite a lot on it's own, but sure look the way to go before going extreme.
> saving that into my bookmarks.


1HP ~ 800watts


----------



## Fidelitas

Thank you for the information.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Okay messing with stability across different cpu clocks , dram speed and bclk clocking . So far this is the only one that's passed a 2 hr P95 Blend test . [email protected] XMP @ 1.35vc full load on 125 strap .......








Sorry huddler don't wanna upload my screenie


----------



## ChrisxIxCross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I probably have it... what does it look like?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yeah I got it- still in the plastic.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yeah I got it- still in the plastic.
> 1HP ~ 800watts
> 
> 
> 
> Yo I shot you a PM.
Click to expand...


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Does anyone know how to get the GPUs more stable under very high BCLK? Anything over 192 and my display driver will stop responding and attempt to recover.. a lot of times it will just go to a black screen and it won't bring the display back.

http://valid.canardpc.com/0usqyj


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Does anyone know how to get the GPUs more stable under very high BCLK? Anything over 192 and my display driver will stop responding and attempt to recover.. a lot of times it will just go to a black screen and it won't bring the display back.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/0usqyj


First thing I would make sure of is that your drivers are all up to date. Second and very important, make sure your power cables are firmly seated on your cards and psu. If the aforementioned are good to go, than you need to back off your OC until you find a good stable base clock and memory....then you can start fine tuning from there. That is the way I have been approaching it and so far I have been successful at reaching the clock speeds I am after.


----------



## alancsalt

I don't think he's looking for a stable oc...I suspect this is competition,- either a personal quest, or "reference clock" for HWbot.org

I have this impression because he and his brother are already conpeting with each other in http://www.overclock.net/t/917173/the-bclk-klub-fsb-htt-welcome

Maybe @HOMECINEMA-PC has some tips for him..


----------



## Fidelitas

Wow he is definitely got that CPU cranked up. I just installed a 4960x, and not even began to put that kind of voltage and frequency to it. Do you think that kind of voltage and frequency can hurt his processor? I guess I did not understand him. I thought he was trying to get his video card at a stable OC. I had some problems with my AMD's and found the culprit was that one of my cables was not seated correctly in the power supply.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

It's more of a personal quest now.. just to push the BCLK to the max that I can. My daily OC is 4637.5 with a BCLK of 185.5. (25x185.8) with 1.37v.

My question (to be more specific) is to anyone who might know how to stabilize the GPU as the BCLK reaches those high speeds. For some reason, my video card driver craps out at anything above 192.5. I'm thinking the high speed causes the PCIe bus to glitch causing the issues. Is there a particular voltage that targets the PCIe bus that may make it more stable. More or less, I've hit my wall with BCLK and was looking for any guidance as to what settings in the bios are relevant to attempt a higher speed.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> It's more of a personal quest now.. just to push the BCLK to the max that I can. My daily OC is 4637.5 with a BCLK of 185.5. (25x185.8) with 1.37v.
> 
> My question (to be more specific) is to anyone who might know how to stabilize the GPU as the BCLK reaches those high speeds. For some reason, my video card driver craps out at anything above 192.5. I'm thinking the high speed causes the PCIe bus to glitch causing the issues. Is there a particular voltage that targets the PCIe bus that may make it more stable. More or less, I've hit my wall with BCLK and was looking for any guidance as to what settings in the bios are relevant to attempt a higher speed.


what voltage are you using for the phase lock loop? and PCIE offset?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Wow he is definitely got that CPU cranked up. I just installed a 4960x, and not even began to put that kind of voltage and frequency to it. Do you think that kind of voltage and frequency can hurt his processor? I guess I did not understand him. I thought he was trying to get his video card at a stable OC. I had some problems with my AMD's and found the culprit was that one of my cables was not seated correctly in the power supply.


Yes, and you shouldn't until you become REALLY familiar with the system and microcode (bios).


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Does anyone know how to get the GPUs more stable under very high BCLK? Anything over 192 and my display driver will stop responding and attempt to recover.. a lot of times it will just go to a black screen and it won't bring the display back.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/0usqyj
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> It's more of a personal quest now.. just to push the BCLK to the max that I can. My daily OC is 4637.5 with a BCLK of 185.5. (25x185.8) with 1.37v.
> 
> My question (to be more specific) is to anyone who might know how to stabilize the GPU as the BCLK reaches those high speeds. For some reason, my video card driver craps out at anything above 192.5. I'm thinking the high speed causes the PCIe bus to glitch causing the issues. Is there a particular voltage that targets the PCIe bus that may make it more stable. More or less, I've hit my wall with BCLK and was looking for any guidance as to what settings in the bios are relevant to attempt a higher speed.
Click to expand...

Nice 4.8 gig val







.
Lower multi ?
My sample chucks 124 bsods at everything past 4600 has booted and crashed after 60 secs at 4.8 and 4.9 but resonds well on all presets 'cept 190 Blck

http://valid.x86.fr/w5iatr


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Nice 4.8 gig val
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Lower multi ?
> My sample chucks 124 bsods at everything past 4600 has booted and crashed after 60 secs at 4.8 and 4.9 but resonds well *on all presets* 'cept 190 Blck
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/w5iatr


Presets? no...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Presets? no...


Yep the ones in the bios LoooooL








But I gotta add a little vcore and vscca for 4.xxx @ 2600 .

A good sample for gaming and 24/7 stuff , very cool running chip 'cept when you want more than 4.5 .
She aint no bench chip







.

[email protected] needs 1.45 in bios and LLC on ultra . At least I can run IBT on max and pass ( so far 2 of ) those . P95 don't like it though


----------



## Fidelitas

I am interested in hearing about other peoples experiences who have had to RMA their Asus boards to Asus for repair. Mine quit working this morning. After spending about thirty minutes on the phone with Asus they instructed me to return my board to them. When I asked them how long it would take to get a new board, they told me that I should expect about a two week turn around, if I provided them with a credit card to guarantee that once I receive the new one that I will send the old one back.

In reality, what they are not outwardly saying is that they in addition want to be able to charge me for a new board if they determine that it is my fault my current board died.









In reality, I can understand Asus asking for something to guarantee that I will send my current board in to them once I receive the new one. I am not sure how they will determine whether or not my board would fall under a warranty replacement, so I will not delve in to that subject. What is irritating me is the fact that I paid $479.00 for a mother board that worked less then three weeks.

To compound that problem, then I am given an RMA number and told to wait for someone from Asus to check their stock for a replacement board and then at that time, they will supposedly send me an email with a credit card authorization form. Then they tell me that once I send in the credit card form, to allow them another three days to process the credit card form and then wait for their shipping department to send me a new mother board.









So now I am sitting here with my favorite system in a dead state. I wonder if MSI, Gigabyte, EVGA and or whomever else out there makes hi-tech mother boards would put me through the same nonsense? Did I talk to the wrong people at Asus. Any thoughts or help would be sincerely welcomed. Thank's all!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I am interested in hearing about other peoples experiences who have had to RMA their Asus boards to Asus for repair. Mine quit working this morning. After spending about thirty minutes on the phone with Asus they instructed me to return my board to them. When I asked them how long it would take to get a new board, they told me that I should expect about a two week turn around, if I provided them with a credit card to guarantee that once I receive the new one that I will send the old one back. In reality, what they are saying is that they in additional want to be able to charge me for a new board if they determine that it is my fault my current board died.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In reality, I can understand Asus asking for something to guarantee that I will send my current board in to them once I receive the new one. I am not sure how they will determine whether or not my board would fall under a warranty replacement, so I will not delve in to that subject. What is irritating me is the fact that I paid $479.00 for a mother board that worked less then three weeks. To compound that problem, then I am given an RMA number and told to wait for someone from Asus to check their stock for a replacement board and then at that time, they will supposedly send me an email with a credit card authorization form. Then they tell me that once I send in the credit card form, to allow them another three days to process the credit card form and then wait for their shipping department to send me a new mother board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I am sitting here with my favorite system in a dead state. I wonder if MSI, Gigabyte, EVGA and or whoever else out there makes hi-tech mother boards would put me through the same nonsense? Did I talk to the wrong people at Asus. Any thoughts or help would be sincerely welcomed. Thank's all!


Have you tried to reflash the bios ????
That's terrible to hear your board died in 3 weeks .









In Oztralia we deal with the seller not the manuf . Easy 2 to 4 weeks on RMA gear here . But if its faulty and you return it to POS with packaging and receipt and no physical damage 9 / 10 times here they will give you another one over the counter if they got stock .








Asrock boards for me are very easy to get refund on . Every asrock board ive had briefly ( extreme 4 and 11 , x58 ) . boots in and doesn't show video sig or sata ports drop out . DOA instant refund


----------



## Fidelitas

I bought mine from Amazon.com Unfortunately, I am in an area where there are no businesses that stock RIBE motherboards. When I contacted Amazon, they told me contact Asus. I think it is horrible to have to wait two weeks to get a new board, but maybe I am being unreasonable.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Yep the ones in the bios LoooooL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I gotta add a little vcore and vscca for 4.xxx @ 2600 .
> 
> A good sample for gaming and 24/7 stuff , very cool running chip 'cept when you want more than 4.5 .
> She aint no bench chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> [email protected] needs 1.45 in bios and LLC on ultra . At least I can run IBT on max and pass ( so far 2 of ) those . P95 don't like it though


You folks achieve some phenomenal clock speeds from your processors. I am not an expert, but have been overclocking processors for years now and I ashamed to say that after spending about three weeks playing with every speed I could get my 4960 stable at, in my opinion it works best at 4.3 for 24/7 use. I am sure that with the right cooling system, I could probably get to 4.5 or 4.6 for 24/7 operation, but I have read about people talking about being on air at 4.5 and I am in awe at how they do it.

Your system is fantastic. I have to say I have never seen anything of the kind before and the OC's you post are outstanding. I just don't know what my father would say if I brought that kind of equipment in to the house or stuck a vent off a window unit on to my PC; I did see that right didn't I?


----------



## Fidelitas

I just got off the phone with another Asus representative and I am even more irritated than I was with my first conversation with them. The woman I talked to, Joy, informed me that she worked in India at a call center for a third party contracted to Asus to handle their customer service calls. After twenty minutes, she politely informed me that her company did not have the power to do anything other than to basically placate me.

The RIBE and RIVE boards are made by a company in Taiwan for Asus and all RMA's require them to send another third party company that handles RMA's for Asus, replacement components. The process indicates that twice a month a third party manufacturer in Taiwan sends a third party warranty company an undisclosed amount of components, most likely ordered by someone calculating how many RMA's their company may issue in a given period of time, and then shipped out on a first come - first served process.

This process usually takes about two weeks for their products that have average sales, but the most popular boards or ones that are in very high demand, can take as long as 30-45 days. Next time, I think I will buy an EVGA board.


----------



## Ubeermench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I bought mine from Amazon.com Unfortunately, I am in an area where there are no businesses that stock RIBE motherboards. When I contacted Amazon, they told me contact Asus. I think it is horrible to have to wait two weeks to get a new board, but maybe I am being unreasonable.


2 weeks? Ha that's nothing. I'm currently STILL on the process of getting my board back after + 1 month. I tried to get a RMA# from asus which i finally got after a week of emails. Took them 2 weeks to acknowledge that the board was sitting at their repair center and then another week to try to repair the board. Didn't hear from them after a week so I called them up to find out that they couldn't repair the board and they were going to upgrade me to the Black edition board since they didn't have any Formula boards left. 1 week goes by and i get the board finally yesterday. I put my computer back together and the board does't work.... No video.After Troubleshooting the board for 3 hours i came to the conclusion it was DOA. Talked to asus support and they also determined it was DOA and they would email another RMA later that night so i could send it back.Asked for an advanced RMA but they refused even though it's been + 1 month already trying to get a working board and that they could only offer me free fedex shipping for my board. That new RMA# + fedex shipping label they promised was never emailed to me last night. Called again during my lunch break to find out why i never got the email last night. Apparently the support agent never even bothered to start a new RMA or create a shipping label but did put notes on my open case. After explaining everything to the support rep i was issued a advanced RMA and created a return label for my old board. Now i play more of the waiting game.

Mean while i was waiting i purchased another Asus board which i only had for a day because it caught on fire after i heard popping noises and smelled smoke coming from the case. Luckily i ordered that board from amazon and was refunded my money in 2 days.

Asus, never again.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubeermench*
> 
> 2 weeks? Ha that's nothing. I'm currently STILL on the process of getting my board back after + 1 month. I tried to get a RMA# from asus which i finally got after a week of emails. Took them 2 weeks to acknowledge that the board was sitting at their repair center and then another week to try to repair the board. Didn't hear from them after a week so I called them up to find out that they couldn't repair the board and they were going to upgrade me to the Black edition board since they didn't have any Formula boards left. 1 week goes by and i get the board finally yesterday. I put my computer back together and the board does't work.... No video.After Troubleshooting the board for 3 hours i came to the conclusion it was DOA. Talked to asus support and they also determined it was DOA and they would email another RMA later that night so i could send it back.Asked for an advanced RMA but they refused even though it's been + 1 month already trying to get a working board and that they could only offer me free fedex shipping for my board. That new RMA# + fedex shipping label they promised was never emailed to me last night. Called again during my lunch break to find out why i never got the email last night. Apparently the support agent never even bothered to start a new RMA or create a shipping label but did put notes on my open case. After explaining everything to the support rep i was issued a advanced RMA and created a return label for my old board. Now i play more of the waiting game.
> 
> Mean while i was waiting i purchased another Asus board which i only had for a day because it caught on fire after i heard popping noises and smelled smoke coming from the case. Luckily i ordered that board from amazon and was refunded my money in 2 days.
> 
> Asus, never again.


OMG. I definitely can sympathize with you. My problem is just beginning. I am going to buy a spare motherboard, but it probably wont be an Asus. There are a lot to choose from out there but none of them seem to compare with the RIBE. I am leaning towards the EVGA Dark, so I will probably buy it and then tear down my computer again whenever the replacement RIBE arrives. I am sorry that I ever purchased an Asus product.


----------



## Fidelitas

*WARNING*

I purchased a Square Trade 3 year warranty for my RIBE from Amazon when I bought it. When they offer it to you they clearly advertise that the will either replace of fix your board within 5 days. I just got off the phone with them and was told that they do not fix Asus motherboards and that when people file a claim against them, they issue a refund for the policy, $30 because the board is to expensive to replace.

I almost lost it when I heard that, but then was told to read the fine print which clearly states that they can issue a refund on the policy at their discretion.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> *WARNING*
> 
> I purchased a Square Trade 3 year warranty for my RIBE from Amazon when I bought it. When they offer it to you they clearly advertise that the will either replace of fix your board within 5 days. I just got off the phone with them and was told that they do not fix Asus motherboards and that when people file a claim against them, they issue a refund for the policy, $30 because the board is to expensive to replace.
> 
> I almost lost it when I heard that, but then was told to read the fine print which clearly states that they can issue a refund on the policy at their discretion.


Wow.

I'll never ever pay an extra penny for a square trade extended warranty on anything after reading something like that.


----------



## Ubeermench

It really sucks that the market for socket 2011 motherboards are mostly asus boards. Might just switch to switch to socket 1150 because of it


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow.
> 
> I'll never ever pay an extra penny for a square trade extended warranty on anything after reading something like that.


I guess that is real peace of mind protection. You can be assured that if you have to use your warranty within three years time, that your $30 bucks will be returned to you with no interest.


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> *WARNING*
> 
> I purchased a Square Trade 3 year warranty for my RIBE from Amazon when I bought it. When they offer it to you they clearly advertise that the will either replace of fix your board within 5 days. I just got off the phone with them and was told that they do not fix Asus motherboards and that when people file a claim against them, they issue a refund for the policy, $30 because the board is to expensive to replace.
> 
> I almost lost it when I heard that, but then was told to read the fine print which clearly states that they can issue a refund on the policy at their discretion.


Man, that's bad, even though I did have a good conclusion with their warranty. I had an Acer W700 Windows 8 tablet that, for some strange reason, had locked me out of the bios, so, I couldn't reinstall OS. anyways, after letting it sit around for several months, I decided to get it fixed in order to sell back to Amazon for $400.00, after realizing that I had bought the ST warranty, I had forgot that I did so,. sent it to them to fix, the day that they received it, they sent me a email telling me that they couldn't fix it, BUT, that they are going to reimburse me the $900.00 that I paid for it a year ago, received the loot in 3 days, helped me with my DC build,WINNING...


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubeermench*
> 
> It really sucks that the market for socket 2011 motherboards are mostly asus boards. Might just switch to switch to socket 1150 because of it


I use to have a system with a EVGA X58 classified edition with a I7 940, six gb's of Kingston Hyper X memory and a couple Gforce 295 GTX gpus, cooled by a Coolermaster V10. I can honestly say that I wish I still had it.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I use to have a system with a EVGA X58 classified edition with a I7 940, six gb's of Kingston Hyper X memory and a couple Gforce 295 GTX gpus, cooled by a Coolermaster V10. I can honestly say that I wish I still had it.


Coincidentally, my first board with that system was a Rampage Extreme that I sent back to Tiger Direct after getting fed up with posting problems with the board. I purchased the EVGA Classified edition and never had one single problem with it. I only bought a RIBE this time because I errantly bent some socket pins on an X79 Deluxe. Now I am really sorry, I did not buy the EVGA Dark, but like you said, Asus seems to be on top of the X79 chipset boards.

Everything else I have looked at from other manufacturers are kind of pale in comparison to what Asus offers. But, how can you buy a component from a company that operates like Asus does? Clearly a catch 22 problem. That is why I wish I had not given away my old system to my younger sister. It wasn't the latest technology but it sure ran great.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> Man, that's bad, even though I did have a good conclusion with their warranty. I had an Acer W700 Windows 8 tablet that, for some strange reason, had locked me out of the bios, so, I couldn't reinstall OS. anyways, after letting it sit around for several months, I decided to get it fixed in order to sell back to Amazon for $400.00, after realizing that I had bought the ST warranty, I had forgot that I did so,. sent it to them to fix, the day that they received it, they sent me a email telling me that they couldn't fix it, BUT, that they are going to reimburse me the $900.00 that I paid for it a year ago, received the loot in 3 days, helped me with my DC build,WINNING...


That is great. I will try Square Trade again tomorrow. Maybe a different representative will tell me something positive.


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> That is great. I will try Square Trade again tomorrow. Maybe a different representative will tell me something positive.



Most that I have ever received back on any warranty..


----------



## Fidelitas

If remember correctly, I think eBay purchased Square Trade not long after they acquired Paypal. I may be wrong, but I remember a time that eBay was trying to buy up everything.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubeermench*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I bought mine from Amazon.com Unfortunately, I am in an area where there are no businesses that stock RIBE motherboards. When I contacted Amazon, they told me contact Asus. I think it is horrible to have to wait two weeks to get a new board, but maybe I am being unreasonable.
> 
> 
> 
> 2 weeks? Ha that's nothing. I'm currently STILL on the process of getting my board back after + 1 month. I tried to get a RMA# from asus which i finally got after a week of emails. Took them 2 weeks to acknowledge that the board was sitting at their repair center and then another week to try to repair the board. Didn't hear from them after a week so I called them up to find out that they couldn't repair the board and they were going to upgrade me to the Black edition board since they didn't have any Formula boards left. 1 week goes by and i get the board finally yesterday. I put my computer back together and the board does't work.... No video.After Troubleshooting the board for 3 hours i came to the conclusion it was DOA. Talked to asus support and they also determined it was DOA and they would email another RMA later that night so i could send it back.Asked for an advanced RMA but they refused even though it's been + 1 month already trying to get a working board and that they could only offer me free fedex shipping for my board. That new RMA# + fedex shipping label they promised was never emailed to me last night. Called again during my lunch break to find out why i never got the email last night. Apparently the support agent never even bothered to start a new RMA or create a shipping label but did put notes on my open case. After explaining everything to the support rep i was issued a advanced RMA and created a return label for my old board. Now i play more of the waiting game.
> 
> Mean while i was waiting i purchased another Asus board which i only had for a day because it caught on fire after i heard popping noises and smelled smoke coming from the case. Luckily i ordered that board from amazon and was refunded my money in 2 days.
> 
> Asus, never again.
Click to expand...

throwing this tidbit of awesomeness out for this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Also rma wise, regardless of what vendor used it's always like getting a tooth pulled imo.


in other news i think i just stabilized my oc, ( long story short, i blew up my aq6 { still functions } and cuase my bios to hang, had to clear them ) currently at 1 hour prime, but before i could not even go 10min

will push prime at least 8 hours if not a day or 2.

4.7 2400 yea baby !


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> You folks achieve some phenomenal clock speeds from your processors. I am not an expert, but have been overclocking processors for years now and I ashamed to say that after spending about three weeks playing with every speed I could get my 4960 stable at, in my opinion it works best at 4.3 for 24/7 use. I am sure that with the right cooling system, I could probably get to 4.5 or 4.6 for 24/7 operation, but I have read about people talking about being on air at 4.5 and I am in awe at how they do it.
> 
> Your system is fantastic. I have to say I have never seen anything of the kind before and the OC's you post are outstanding. I just don't know what my father would say if I brought that kind of equipment in to the house or stuck a vent off a window unit on to my PC; I did see that right didn't I?


Why thank you








Its the exhaust duct of the portable A/C unit . Its not hooked up ATM but the exhaust is down where the exhaust comes out if the back of my 1 HP water chiller















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubeermench*
> 
> 2 weeks? Ha that's nothing. I'm currently STILL on the process of getting my board back after + 1 month. I tried to get a RMA# from asus which i finally got after a week of emails. Took them 2 weeks to acknowledge that the board was sitting at their repair center and then another week to try to repair the board. Didn't hear from them after a week so I called them up to find out that they couldn't repair the board and they were going to upgrade me to the Black edition board since they didn't have any Formula boards left. 1 week goes by and i get the board finally yesterday. I put my computer back together and the board does't work.... No video.After Troubleshooting the board for 3 hours i came to the conclusion it was DOA. Talked to asus support and they also determined it was DOA and they would email another RMA later that night so i could send it back.Asked for an advanced RMA but they refused even though it's been + 1 month already trying to get a working board and that they could only offer me free fedex shipping for my board. That new RMA# + fedex shipping label they promised was never emailed to me last night. Called again during my lunch break to find out why i never got the email last night. Apparently the support agent never even bothered to start a new RMA or create a shipping label but did put notes on my open case. After explaining everything to the support rep i was issued a advanced RMA and created a return label for my old board. Now i play more of the waiting game.
> 
> Mean while i was waiting i purchased another Asus board which i only had for a day because it caught on fire after i heard popping noises and smelled smoke coming from the case. Luckily i ordered that board from amazon and was refunded my money in 2 days.
> 
> Asus, never again.


----------



## _REAPER_

I am wondering if anyone could post up some settings for 4.5
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> You folks achieve some phenomenal clock speeds from your processors. I am not an expert, but have been overclocking processors for years now and I ashamed to say that after spending about three weeks playing with every speed I could get my 4960 stable at, in my opinion it works best at 4.3 for 24/7 use. I am sure that with the right cooling system, I could probably get to 4.5 or 4.6 for 24/7 operation, but I have read about people talking about being on air at 4.5 and I am in awe at how they do it.
> 
> Your system is fantastic. I have to say I have never seen anything of the kind before and the OC's you post are outstanding. I just don't know what my father would say if I brought that kind of equipment in to the house or stuck a vent off a window unit on to my PC; I did see that right didn't I?
> 
> 
> 
> Why thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its the exhaust duct of the portable A/C unit . Its not hooked up ATM but the exhaust is down where the exhaust comes out if the back of my 1 HP water chiller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ubeermench*
> 
> Brotha can you post your settings for 4.5ghz or shoot me over screenshots on PM. I will be leaving AFG in about 60 days and am looking for some stable settings to start with. Much appreciated
> 2 weeks? Ha that's nothing. I'm currently STILL on the process of getting my board back after + 1 month. I tried to get a RMA# from asus which i finally got after a week of emails. Took them 2 weeks to acknowledge that the board was sitting at their repair center and then another week to try to repair the board. Didn't hear from them after a week so I called them up to find out that they couldn't repair the board and they were going to upgrade me to the Black edition board since they didn't have any Formula boards left. 1 week goes by and i get the board finally yesterday. I put my computer back together and the board does't work.... No video.After Troubleshooting the board for 3 hours i came to the conclusion it was DOA. Talked to asus support and they also determined it was DOA and they would email another RMA later that night so i could send it back.Asked for an advanced RMA but they refused even though it's been + 1 month already trying to get a working board and that they could only offer me free fedex shipping for my board. That new RMA# + fedex shipping label they promised was never emailed to me last night. Called again during my lunch break to find out why i never got the email last night. Apparently the support agent never even bothered to start a new RMA or create a shipping label but did put notes on my open case. After explaining everything to the support rep i was issued a advanced RMA and created a return label for my old board. Now i play more of the waiting game.
> 
> Mean while i was waiting i purchased another Asus board which i only had for a day because it caught on fire after i heard popping noises and smelled smoke coming from the case. Luckily i ordered that board from amazon and was refunded my money in 2 days.
> 
> Asus, never again.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> *WARNING*
> 
> I purchased a Square Trade 3 year warranty for my RIBE from Amazon when I bought it. When they offer it to you they clearly advertise that the will either replace of fix your board within 5 days. I just got off the phone with them and was told that they do not fix Asus motherboards and that when people file a claim against them, they issue a refund for the policy, $30 because the board is to expensive to replace.
> 
> I almost lost it when I heard that, but then was told to read the fine print which clearly states that they can issue a refund on the policy at their discretion.


yeah - that's the biggest scam !!! you know, if it sounds to good to be true...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> throwing this tidbit of awesomeness out for this
> in other news i think i just stabilized my oc, ( long story short, i blew up my aq6 { still functions } and cuase my bios to hang, had to clear them ) currently at 1 hour prime, but before i could not even go 10min
> 
> will push prime at least 8 hours if not a day or 2.
> 
> *4.7 2400 yea baby* !


well done!! but a day or 2 of prime is not really necessary. just torturing the chip after a few hours.

what happened with the AQ6???


----------



## Fidelitas

I am really impressed with the 2400. What kind of RAM and how much?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

http://valid.x86.fr/aecg8p

Prime95 on a blend ATM...... full load vcore on that clock with 125 strap and over 2666 on da mem too


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/aecg8p
> 
> Prime95 on a blend ATM...... full load vcore on that clock with 125 strap and over 2666 on da mem too


hey bro, what vtt and vsa do you need for that 2666?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/aecg8p
> 
> Prime95 on a blend ATM...... full load vcore on that clock with 125 strap and over 2666 on da mem too


Home, do you think Windows 7 is a more stable operating system than Windows 8? Would you mind posting the bios settings your used with that 125 strap. I would really like to see how you got there. On my own home front, I decided to buy another RIBE and use the one coming back from RMA as a spare. Hopefully, I will have my system back up tonight, depending on when UPS gets here today.


----------



## Fidelitas

Home, where did you obtain that great 1hp cooler from? Was it expensive? I would like to get one of those for myself. 2 thumbs up














for that idea!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Home, where did you obtain that great 1hp cooler from? Was it expensive? I would like to get one of those for myself. 2 thumbs up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for that idea!


Aquatuning sells it, they have HC1000 and HC2000 if you want to go insane.









http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/radiatoren/durchlaufkuehler/4742/durchlaufkuehler-hailea-ultra-titan-2000-hc10001650watt-kaelteleistung?c=355


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> hey bro, what vtt and vsa do you need for that 2666?


I know you didn't ask me, but I use VTT @ 1.05v and VCCSA @ 0.900v with single-GPU. running three cards requires increase to 1.15v VTT and 0.950v VCCSA.

So it seems these need to be increased depending on the number of cards you have installed. I dunno if that is just in general, or just my CPU, but maybe this info helps you a bit.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I know you didn't ask me, but I use VTT @ 1.05v and VCCSA @ 0.900v with single-GPU. running three cards requires increase to 1.15v VTT and 0.950v VCCSA.
> 
> So it seems these need to be increased depending on the number of cards you have installed. I dunno if that is just in general, or just my CPU, but maybe this info helps you a bit.


What about four GPU's? I have to test overclocking on my system (when it is up and running).

I think I had VTT and VCCSA on "auto" when I tried 4,5 Ghz at 1,376 volts. Will I be more unstable with four GPU's than one?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> What about four GPU's? I have to test overclocking on my system (when it is up and running).
> 
> I think I had VTT and VCCSA on "auto" when I tried 4,5 Ghz at 1,376 volts. Will I be more unstable with four GPU's than one?


That's how my CPU is, but I am not sure about every CPU being this way. It's also slightly hotter, too, from using the extra PCIe lanes, but just a couple of degrees C.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Coincidentally, my first board with that system was a Rampage Extreme that I sent back to Tiger Direct after getting fed up with posting problems with the board. I purchased the EVGA Classified edition and never had one single problem with it. I only bought a RIBE this time because I errantly bent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> technology but it sure ran great.


I pretty certain the latest bios at the time you had that board flashing it might have fixed it . The last 2 times ive RMA'd 2 different Rog boards all they said they did was flash to latest bios . Fine if your running IVB-E but no good if running SB-E and liked your clocks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am wondering if anyone could post up some settings for 4.5


Im working on it , Stable clock and mem is what im trying to get around [email protected] XMP 2666 @ 1.35v - 1.37 loaded on 125 strap for this sample








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> hey bro, what vtt and vsa do you need for that 2666?


Okay ive still got a bit of fine tuning to do but this is where im at so far ....

Vscca could come down but I will see if this effects IBT and or P95








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Home, do you think Windows 7 is a more stable operating system than Windows 8? Would you mind posting the bios settings your used with that 125 strap. I would really like to see how you got there. On my own home front, I decided to buy another RIBE and use the one coming back from RMA as a spare. Hopefully, I will have my system back up tonight, depending on when UPS gets here today.


Win 7 scores higher in benchmarks but cause I like to bench I cant use win 8 for subs to HWBOT . The bench progs I use have validity issues with the real time clock on win8
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Home, where did you obtain that great 1hp cooler from? Was it expensive? I would like to get one of those for myself. 2 thumbs up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for that idea!


I have 2 of em . One is a HC-150 1/10 of a Hp good for 1150 / DC and has 1 liter res . And the 2nd one is a HC-1000a 1 Hp with a 4 liter res . Add rads and you can run it of or on and use it as a res . Quick disconnects are a must ( QD3 ) lots of em. I use no compression screw in fittings to blocks or rads . You will need a strong res /pump combo to run it too ........


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Aquatuning sells it, they have HC1000 and HC2000 if you want to go insane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/radiatoren/durchlaufkuehler/4742/durchlaufkuehler-hailea-ultra-titan-2000-hc10001650watt-kaelteleistung?c=355


Or you could try your local pet shop or aquarium








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I know you didn't ask me, but I use VTT @ 1.05v and VCCSA @ 0.900v with single-GPU. running three cards requires increase to 1.15v VTT and 0.950v VCCSA.
> 
> So it seems these need to be increased depending on the number of cards you have installed. I dunno if that is just in general, or just my CPU, but maybe this info helps you a bit.


That would make sense moar draw


----------



## Fidelitas

*Or you could try your local pet shop or aquarium*

That would probably be cheaper then shipping it over here from Germany.







I got my system back up tonight and the RMA credit card form from Asus. They sure take a lot of money for security. Suggested retail on the board, a $10.00 processing fee that in my opinion is ridiculous and $35.00 to ship it overnight.







The good part is now I have a spare board. Anyone out there need the overclock thinga-magigy I have two of everything,...lol


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> *Or you could try your local pet shop or aquarium*
> 
> That would probably be cheaper then shipping it over here from Germany.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my system back up tonight and the RMA credit card form from Asus. They sure take a lot of money for security. Suggested retail on the board, a $10.00 processing fee that in my opinion is ridiculous and $35.00 to ship it overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good part is now I have a spare board. Anyone out there need the overclock thinga-magigy I have two of everything,...lol


And you are where in da worrrld ????


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> throwing this tidbit of awesomeness out for this
> in other news i think i just stabilized my oc, ( long story short, i blew up my aq6 { still functions } and cuase my bios to hang, had to clear them ) currently at 1 hour prime, but before i could not even go 10min
> 
> will push prime at least 8 hours if not a day or 2.
> 
> *4.7 2400 yea baby* !
> 
> 
> 
> well done!! but a day or 2 of prime is not really necessary. just torturing the chip after a few hours.
> 
> what happened with the AQ6???
Click to expand...

long story short, i was tired and in a hurry and i thought i hooked rpm, to rpm and hooked to my mobo. i hooked it to the Flow sensor..... so my screen does not work, looks functional. but just not on this unit .

i was going to buy a pro and make it a slave. looks like this one got volunteered, it is ok i have 6 of them ( or so )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> *Or you could try your local pet shop or aquarium*
> 
> That would probably be cheaper then shipping it over here from Germany.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my system back up tonight and the RMA credit card form from Asus. They sure take a lot of money for security. Suggested retail on the board, a $10.00 processing fee that in my opinion is ridiculous and $35.00 to ship it overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good part is now I have a spare board. Anyone out there need the overclock thinga-magigy I have two of everything,...lol


ill take one of your heatsinks lol


----------



## Mega Man

derete


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> throwing this tidbit of awesomeness out for this
> in other news i think i just stabilized my oc, ( long story short, i blew up my aq6 { still functions } and cuase my bios to hang, had to clear them ) currently at 1 hour prime, but before i could not even go 10min
> 
> will push prime at least 8 hours if not a day or 2.
> 
> 4.7 2400 yea baby !


So I was surfin a bit as you do then went outside for awhile and got this and got this on it









http://valid.x86.fr/4m05q5

Happy days are here again yippee


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am wondering if anyone could post up some settings for 4.5


Im working on it , Stable clock and mem is what im trying to get around [email protected] XMP 2666 @ 1.35v - 1.37 loaded on 125 strap for this sample









Appreciate the help boss man


----------



## Fidelitas

What is an AQ6 Home?


----------



## gdubc

Aq6=aquacomputer aquaero 6. Top o' the line pwm fan/pump controller


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I know you didn't ask me, but I use VTT @ 1.05v and VCCSA @ 0.900v with single-GPU. running three cards requires increase to 1.15v VTT and 0.950v VCCSA.
> So it seems these need to be increased depending on the number of cards you have installed. I dunno if that is just in general, or just my CPU, but maybe this info helps you a bit.


If I run my ram at 2666, either with a 4960X or 4930K, Iit neds 1.15+ on VTT and 1.15+ on VSA to perform correctly. LOwer it boots and works, but actually runs with lower bandwidth (.. not teh 40K write bug). IDK, maybe I need to adj some other setting?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> long story short, i was tired and in a hurry and i thought i hooked rpm, to rpm and hooked to my mobo. i hooked it to the Flow sensor..... so my screen does not work, looks functional. but just not on this unit .
> i was going to buy a pro and make it a slave. looks like this one got volunteered, it is ok i have 6 of them ( or so )
> ill take one of your heatsinks lol


six? you are my aquaHERO! Best controller (ever) made! Only one I have is built into the 720 markIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> So I was surfin a bit as you do then went outside for awhile and got this and got this on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/4m05q5
> Happy days are here again yippee


so that's a 4960X... you running a 30K and a 60X? either way, 2666 ram on my rig requires lots-o-volts.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

HOMECINEMA-PC: Which chiller do you recommend to use with a system like this:



I also wonder, now I have 2x 480 Monsta, 2x XTX240s and a MO-RA3 420 LT. If I use a chiller, will I be able to just use the MO-RA3 420 LT (with 9x 140 mm fans) together with the chiller?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> So I was surfin a bit as you do then went outside for awhile and got this and got this on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/4m05q5
> Happy days are here again yippee
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so that's a 4960X... you running a 30K and a 60X? either way, 2666 ram on my rig requires lots-o-volts.
Click to expand...

Dat ain't no 2666Mhz he's running.. ??
Quote:


> Frequency 667.3 MHz (1:10)


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Oooppps wrong link post right one tomorrow in bed 'nite


----------



## Ubeermench

Found out that my asus board fried my cpu and ram =/ Decided to upgrade to a 4930k since my 3820 is fried.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubeermench*
> 
> Found out that my asus board fried my cpu and ram =/ Decided to upgrade to a 4930k since my 3820 is fried.


Let me know how that turns out. I have a 3820 installed and my 4930K just arrived from the shop (replaced). See if the 4930K is hotter and how much. See if you can see a performance increase.
In order for me to replace my CPU, I have to pull the whole mobo out and unscrew the Monobloc before I can get to the CPU.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> If I run my ram at 2666, either with a 4960X or 4930K, Iit neds 1.15+ on VTT and 1.15+ on VSA to perform correctly. LOwer it boots and works, but actually runs with lower bandwidth (.. not teh 40K write bug). IDK, maybe I need to adj some other setting?


Yeah, you should have over 70k in aida membench, and too low volts will lower bandwidth there. Intel sent me poor, avg, and great CPUs, and it's actually the poor chip that needs the least VCCSA. Go figure.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Dat ain't no 2666Mhz he's running.. ??


----------



## cadaveca

Here's some manual timings and aida bench for 2666 @ 1.65V(2133 divider x125 BCLK, 1.265 vCPU, 1.05V VTT, 0.900v VCCSA):


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> HOMECINEMA-PC: Which chiller do you recommend to use with a system like this:
> 
> 
> 
> I also wonder, now I have 2x 480 Monsta, 2x XTX240s and a MO-RA3 420 LT. If I use a chiller, will I be able to just use the MO-RA3 420 LT (with 9x 140 mm fans) together with the chiller?


Looking good!


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> HOMECINEMA-PC: Which chiller do you recommend to use with a system like this:
> 
> 
> 
> I also wonder, now I have 2x 480 Monsta, 2x XTX240s and a MO-RA3 420 LT. If I use a chiller, will I be able to just use the MO-RA3 420 LT (with 9x 140 mm fans) together with the chiller?


Very nice. I really like your cooling setup.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Looking good!


Thank you, will post a few shots when it is "done".







Do you have any recommendations on a chiller for this setup? Specifications in signature.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Very nice. I really like your cooling setup.


Thank you, be sure to head over to my build log for more pictures and progress.


----------



## cadaveca

I'd just be recommending what these other guys have already said. The only thing I might add to it is looking at pipe insulation to minimize condensation.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, you should have over 70k in aida membench, and too low volts will lower bandwidth there. Intel sent me poor, avg, and great CPUs, and it's actually the poor chip that needs the least VCCSA. Go figure.


yeah - no problem getting the bandwidth, just need 1.15 and closer to 1.18V vtt for 2400 and 2666, resp. Thanks for sharing the timings. my kit is [email protected]


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yeah - no problem getting the bandwidth, just need 1.15 and closer to 1.18V vtt for 2400 and 2666, resp. Thanks for sharing the timings. my kit is [email protected]


If ya can't pull off C10 @ <1.7V, it's possible you got some Hynix-based DIMMs. My Dom plat Samsung sticks won't do 9-11-11 @ 2400 without pushing 1.725 or so, but maybe there's something I'm overlooking there myself, since based on the results I see from other users w/ Samsung, I should have no issues there.

If ya got 8 GB sticks...man, those numbers are fairly good!! The larger density of 8 GB sticks hurts performance slightly in benchmarks, but it's not like you'd ever notice the difference in daily use.

ASUS did pretty good opening up the tweak-ability with this RIVBE, and although I might be making a platform change soon for my gaming rig, this is one board that I'll keep on my shelf for years to come. What a great way to say goodbye to DDR3!!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Dat ain't no 2666Mhz he's running.. ??
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Oooppps wrong link post right one tomorrow in bed 'nite
Click to expand...

http://valid.x86.fr/vveif8

and

http://valid.x86.fr/fnn5t3








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> If I run my ram at 2666, either with a 4960X or 4930K, Iit neds 1.15+ on VTT and 1.15+ on VSA to perform correctly. LOwer it boots and works, but actually runs with lower bandwidth (.. not teh 40K write bug). IDK, maybe I need to adj some other setting?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Best controller (ever) made! Only one I have is built into the 720 markIII six? you are my aquaHERO!
> 
> 
> so that's a 4960X... you running a 30K and a 60X? either way, 2666 ram on my rig requires lots-o-volts.


And that's what im learning at least it clocks better ....
NOW to get sumthin to bench
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> HOMECINEMA-PC: Which chiller do you recommend to use with a system like this:
> 
> 
> 
> I also wonder, now I have 2x 480 Monsta, 2x XTX240s and a MO-RA3 420 LT. If I use a chiller, will I be able to just use the MO-RA3 420 LT (with 9x 140 mm fans) together with the chiller?


The one I have or the next size down
plus
You must keep it above dew point . You've got lots of metal pipe there , sweatsville big time if you run your temps too low . Run QDC's and a rad or two to help . You can run it directly to loop too , this is the best way


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

No 1 on da bot

http://valid.x86.fr/lndd65

http://hwbot.org/submission/2601556_homecinema_pc_reference_clock_rampage_iv_black_edition_193.15_mhz?recalculate=true


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Nice one!


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> No 1 on da bot
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/lndd65
> 
> http://hwbot.org/submission/2601556_homecinema_pc_reference_clock_rampage_iv_black_edition_193.15_mhz?recalculate=true


Mr. Home, that is incredible, but I have to say, I expected nothing less of you. You are a genius!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> No 1 on da bot
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/lndd65
> 
> http://hwbot.org/submission/2601556_homecinema_pc_reference_clock_rampage_iv_black_edition_193.15_mhz?recalculate=true


Nice job, man!

Can you hit 195 for screenie?







(I don't bot.)


----------



## Fidelitas

The greatest advice I could ever give anyone is that when all else fails, read the instructions. In my biased opinion, Asus customer service and technical support really stinks, but when it comes to building motherboards, they are second to none. The more time I spend reading the manual and using these forums and those of Asus, the better appreciation I have for the RIBE.

I don't think anyone who has ever read my posts does not realize that I do not know much about overclocking a processor, building a cooling system or tweaking my memory. However, I have built a few computers and learned many things from trial and a lot of embarrassing errors. I added another 32gb of memory to my computer this evening and my RIBE really showed its true genius when I booted up my computer.

If any of you have ever tried to post 64gb of RAM at 2400 MHz, you probably have experienced the nightmare of trying to get a lesser board to post. One touch of the memory ok button on my RIBE and my computer went straight to bios. A few more tweaks in the bios and my memory was running on its XMP profile without a glitch. The RIBE for all intensive purposes, tuned my memory automatically to make it run great.

I know that there are a lot of things a person can do with the RIBE above and beyond what the board does itself, but it is very impressive for a board to do most of the work for you. A person who has never overclocked a cpu in their life can benefit from the years of engineering experience the engineers at Asus put in to the RIBE and be decently overclocked with a few clicks on their mouse and be running OC'd and stable in minutes. Two thumbs up for the RIBE and Asus.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

So you gots 64gb @ 2400 to boot and run , nice one man








and yeah there is a lot of AUTO on this board







But being able to get 2666 or 193 BLCK outta a hexcore on this thing is well ...........







Nerdgasmic to say the least









Okay Prime Time









http://valid.x86.fr/lndd65

Could drop vcore below 1.3vc but I thinks 1.3vc is as low as I can go under full load . See how this goes as a 24/7


----------



## Fidelitas

I will say it again for the studio audience, you are a genius Mr. Home. Now if you would be so nice as to share all of the bios pictures, maybe I can get mine running that fast.....lol


----------



## Fidelitas

I would like to join the club and I believe the following picture qualifies per your page 1 instructions for posting proof of ownership.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> So you gots 64gb @ 2400 to boot and run , nice one man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and yeah there is a lot of AUTO on this board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But being able to get 2666 or 193 BLCK outta a hexcore on this thing is well ...........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nerdgasmic to say the least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay Prime Time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/lndd65
> 
> Could drop vcore below 1.3vc but I thinks 1.3vc is as low as I can go under full load . See how this goes as a 24/7


I am at a Vcore of 1.275 at 4.3GHz 2400 MHz on the memory I am definitely impressed with your 4.5 2666 just a hair under 1.3 Your 4930 is smoking my 4960. I have to go to 1.42 to even get remotely stable at 4.5 and my temps start becoming an issue.









Though I am proud to say that my 3DMark physics score is just a hair above 18000 and my overall score is creeping up to a respectable 22208. My Radeons love the RIBE, now if I could just figure out how to build a nice cooling system so that I could learn to overclock them. Also, some money to buy all the parts I need to build a good cooling system seems to be evading me as well.....lol In retrospect, I would of been smarter to buy a whole lot less ram, just one good video card and maybe even a cheaper processor. Then I would of had money to spare to build a good cooling system so that I could over clock everything. One thing I have learned from this experience, is that you need to take care of your cooling before you even think about doing any serious over clocking. However, when I open my case and see all my ram slots filled and those beautiful Radeons sitting on my RIBE, I find myself in awe and what I have built.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I am at a Vcore of 1.275 at 4.3GHz 2400 MHz on the memory I am definitely impressed with your 4.5 2666 just a hair under 1.3 Your 4930 is smoking my 4960. I have to go to 1.42 to even get remotely stable at 4.5 and my temps start becoming an issue.


Saying that i doubt 190blck would kick in . It wouldn't on my 4930k . Sounds like that 4960x of yours and my 4930k are soul mates . This is a new chip same as yours but betterer








This prime has vcore set at 1.31vc in the bios . Nearly EVERTHING on AUTO and under load its 1.328vc .
Ram timings next ........... after I chillax for a while . Pretty much 2 and a bit days solid on this thing . Starting to get somewhere .........


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Saying that i doubt 190blck would kick in . It wouldn't on my 4930k . Sounds like that 4960x of yours and my 4930k are soul mates . This is a new chip same as yours but betterer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This prime has vcore set at 1.31vc in the bios . Nearly EVERTHING on AUTO and under load its 1.328vc .
> Ram timings next ........... after I chillax for a while . Pretty much 2 and a bit days solid on this thing . Starting to get somewhere .........


I am confused enough trying to get some extra speed while remaining cool by adjusting the multiplier, voltages and DIGI settings. I have not really tried to adjust the BLCK, because then my DRAM speeds change and I really don't know how to tweak my timing any further than running it on its XMP profiles. I have three preset OC BLCK settings in my bios, but I read that they are for Haswell processors and will not work with mine.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

http://valid.x86.fr/ql2tjd

Timings dram next


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I am confused enough trying to get some extra speed while remaining cool by adjusting the multiplier, voltages and DIGI settings. I have not really tried to adjust the BLCK, because then my DRAM speeds change and I really don't know how to tweak my timing any further than running it on its XMP profiles. I have three preset OC BLCK settings in my bios, but I read that they are for Haswell processors and will not work with mine.


Doesn't hurt to try. Biggest thing in pushing this platform to the limit is temps. They can handle the voltages and such fairly well once temps are dealt with.

I have a pretty good CPU, and am pushing about 250W @ 4.5 GHz. SO giving good cooling is going to cost just like the rest of the platform. Give this beast of a board what it desires, and the sky is the limit.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Well I would like to announce finally at last ..........









http://valid.canardpc.com/efa6a9
Hooray for ME








This chip needs some real cold on it .........


----------



## Myka

Having issues with my rig (Rampage Black MB) not waking up from sleep and recently if the monitor shuts off in power save mode I lose all pinned icons in the Task Bar, except for the start button when I wake up the monitor.

I'm using the 0602 bios but see there is a 0603, a 0701 and 0801 (Beta) version out on the ASUS web site for the Black MB.

Running Windows 7, and sleep is a function of Windows controlling hardware. Wondering if this is a MB issue or a OS Windows issue?

All my power options are set to wake up the computer. Re installing Windows is an option but the same problem occurs on my other OS hard drive when I put to sleep the fans restart but the monitor will not wake up and I have to shut the PC off at the power supply.

Researching this it seems to be a common problem people are having, not isolated to the Black board.

Flashing the bios to a newer version may work, and eventually I'll need to do it, but I'll lose all my OC settings when the bios updates back to default settings.

This is another issue that maybe someone here can help me with. I've saved the OC settings to a USB and made a copy on BIOS #2.
How do you save your OC settings for easy re-install? or do you manually do it each time you do a bios update. Do I need to do a bios update to a newer version now and do you think it may correct the sleep issue I'm having?

Thanks in advance
Mike


----------



## Mega Man

You have to manually do it. The settings won't work on another bios version (I tried)

Add to your problem it sounds like a windows issue.

I personally hate sleep and always have had problems with it


----------



## fishingfanatic

Congrats on hitting 5 ghz! I couldn't get past 4.8 on air, about to try wcing it.

Nice low voltage too!!!

FF


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myka*
> 
> Having issues with my rig (Rampage Black MB) not waking up from sleep and recently if the monitor shuts off in power save mode I lose all pinned icons in the Task Bar, except for the start button when I wake up the monitor.
> 
> I'm using the 0602 bios but see there is a 0603, a 0701 and 0801 (Beta) version out on the ASUS web site for the Black MB.
> 
> Running Windows 7, and sleep is a function of Windows controlling hardware. Wondering if this is a MB issue or a OS Windows issue?
> 
> All my power options are set to wake up the computer. Re installing Windows is an option but the same problem occurs on my other OS hard drive when I put to sleep the fans restart but the monitor will not wake up and I have to shut the PC off at the power supply.
> 
> Researching this it seems to be a common problem people are having, not isolated to the Black board.
> 
> Flashing the bios to a newer version may work, and eventually I'll need to do it, but I'll lose all my OC settings when the bios updates back to default settings.
> 
> This is another issue that maybe someone here can help me with. I've saved the OC settings to a USB and made a copy on BIOS #2.
> How do you save your OC settings for easy re-install? or do you manually do it each time you do a bios update. Do I need to do a bios update to a newer version now and do you think it may correct the sleep issue I'm having?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Mike


Unfortunately, with some bios updates, you have to use your USB memory stick to reinstall your settings. When I updated to Bios ver. 7.01, it erased all of my settings I had in my bios. When I updated to 8.01 they did not get erased. I don't why one did it the other didn't. If you are not running 7.01, you should be. It is definitely more stable than 6.01 but I think your problems from the way you described them are Windows related, not bios.

Over the years I have found that the Windows sleep feature is not compatible with all devices. I don't know if you ever notice, but a lot of times when you buy different components, such as keyboards or mice, they will advertise that they are compatible with certain operating systems. I don't know what version of Windows you are running or how old your monitor, keyboard or mouse is, but if they were designed to run with Vista for instance, you may have some quirky problems with them running on 7 or 8.

One thing you may try with your monitor if it has an HDMI input and your GPU has HDMI out, is to hook up your monitor with HDMI and see if the problem exists. I know that with a dvi cable there is actually a wire or two that receives a message from your gpu to go in to power saving mode when your computer goes to sleep. Maybe your problem resides there.

My suggestion is that you contact the manufacturers tech support for your monitor. It sounds to me like you have some kind of communication issue between your operating system, gpu and or monitor. They may have ran across the problem before and have a fix for it. And if in fact it is something else, at least you can rule out your gpu and monitor, and go from there.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> Congrats on hitting 5 ghz! I couldn't get past 4.8 on air, about to try wcing it.
> 
> *Nice low voltage too!!!
> *
> FF


lol - no way


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You have to manually do it. The settings won't work on another bios version (I tried)
> 
> Add to your problem it sounds like a windows issue.
> 
> I personally hate sleep and always have had problems with it


I agree. I never put my computer in a sleep mode. It is either turned on or off.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Well I would like to announce finally at last ..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/efa6a9
> Hooray for ME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This chip needs some real cold on it .........


Home, how cold did you have to get that cpu to get it up to 5ghz with only a 1.104 on the Vcore? That is an awesome speed at that voltage.


----------



## fishingfanatic

Gee thanks for the vote of confidence dude...lol


----------



## Myka

Thank you Fidelitas and Mega Man for your reply...

Yeah sleep issues, a lot of people have this problem, although my other PC's have no problems this one does for some reason. I can accept leaving it on or off, I just prefer it to sleep so the fans aren't running.

Overclock is set up to power down at idle, so temperature at idle is ok. I think that is the loadline calibration setting when my Tech friend was here showing me Overclocking basics which I am new to, but find very interesting and want to become more proficient. Basically it's on demand power MHz increases as demand increases if I have that correct.

I have a brand new ASUS ProArt Monitor and brand new MSI 780Ti Gaming GPU, drivers are uptodate on the GPU but the ASUS monitor has no firmware or drivers available on disc or onsite which is strange, it's recognized as plug and Play on the windows driver, this seems to point maybe to the issue. I will definitely contact ASUS on this.

What I'll do is try the ASUS monitor on my other PC with no sleep issues and see how it fairs?

Mike


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> Gee thanks for the vote of confidence dude...lol


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> Congrats on hitting 5 ghz! I couldn't get past 4.8 on air, about to try wcing it.
> 
> Nice low voltage too!!!
> FF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Home, how cold did you have to get that cpu to get it up to 5ghz with only a 1.104 on the Vcore? That is an awesome speed at that voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> lol - no way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thank you peoples








But I cpu-z 5 gigs on 100 strap 1.535vc using offset v core . That why the vcore is low . Wont be benchin @ 5 gigs on this sample on sub-ambient . Needs real cold on it to shine








O/C Panel helped me get this by allowing me to adjust voltages in real time


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Thank you peoples
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I cpu-z 5 gigs on 100 strap 1.535vc using offset v core . That why the vcore is low . Wont be benchin @ 5 gigs on this sample on sub-ambient . Needs real cold on it to shine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> O/C Panel helped me get this by allowing me to adjust voltages in real time


nice vcore for 5.0 on that chip!! dont think mine would do it at any voltage anymore... "it's not the years, it's the miles"


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> nice vcore for 5.0 on that chip!! dont think mine would do it at any voltage anymore... "it's not the years, it's the miles"


Same for cars as well man .

BTW I chucked in my original set of 4x4gb Ripjaws X CL11 2133's in XMP @ 1866 so I could clock on 100 strap


----------



## funkmetal

I believe this gets me into the club?

http://valid.x86.fr/jgfukg

Haven t messed with the BIOS entirely yet but I'm looking forward to it


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> *Same for cars as well man .*
> BTW I chucked in my original set of 4x4gb Ripjaws X CL11 2133's in XMP @ 1866 so I could clock on 100 strap


... and us!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> ... and us!


Considering this happened to me a couple of weeks ago, I can attest to THAT.











Hopefully by the end of the month I'll have all my water stuff so I can start pushing my cards. I bought a couple of EVGA Titan Black coolers to toss on myy 780 TIs, didn't help one bit.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Considering this happened to me a couple of weeks ago, I can attest to THAT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully by the end of the month I'll have all my water stuff so I can start pushing my cards. I bought a couple of EVGA Titan Black coolers to toss on myy 780 TIs, didn't help one bit.











as long as everyone was okay... it's just metal, well and alot of plastic!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as long as everyone was okay... it's just metal, well and alot of plastic!


ROFL. Yeah, everyone is alive.







I wouldn't be spending the time to play with OC otherwise.


----------



## Fidelitas

What is the difference in the BCLK and Strap settings? What do they do? I know that BCLK is base clock but how is it different than the strap?


----------



## Fidelitas

Is there such a thing as an Assassins Creed black edition or are they all Assassin Creed editions. Both of my boards have the Image on the box and a code on the back of the instruction books for it. The reason I ask is that Asus has both listed on their support site.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> What is the difference in the BCLK and Strap settings? What do they do? I know that BCLK is base clock but how is it different than the strap?


Consider strap as reference clock, that BCLK is adjusted from. There is an "effective range" that BCLK works, +/- the reference clock. Adjust the strap(reference clock), and the effective range is adjusted accordingly.

You could set 115 BCLK on 100 strap, going up, and increase the memory clock at the same time, or 115 BCLK from 125 strap, and the memory frequency would decrease. This provides the full range of both BCLK and memory speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Is there such a thing as an Assassins Creed black edition or are they all Assassin Creed editions. Both of my boards have the Image on the box and a code on the back of the instruction books for it. The reason I ask is that Asus has both listed on their support site.


I'm sure that when they run out of the Black Flag codes there will be boards without the tie-in art.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Considering this happened to me a couple of weeks ago, I can attest to THAT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully by the end of the month I'll have all my water stuff so I can start pushing my cards. I bought a couple of EVGA Titan Black coolers to toss on myy 780 TIs, didn't help one bit.


Man you've hit that almost square on








Damn Voyagers , its those pesky tojo hybrids you gotta watch








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Consider strap as reference clock, that BCLK is adjusted from. There is an "effective range" that BCLK works, +/- the reference clock. Adjust the strap(reference clock), and the effective range is adjusted accordingly.
> 
> You could set 115 BCLK on 100 strap, going up, and increase the memory clock at the same time, or 115 BCLK from 125 strap, and the memory frequency would decrease. This provides the full range of both BCLK and memory speed.
> I'm sure that when they run out of the Black Flag codes there will be boards without the tie-in art.


Im glad you explained that mate








Sometimes I just cant put it into the right words








The box will change just like the RIVE BF3 ones


----------



## funkmetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I'm sure that when they run out of the Black Flag codes there will be boards without the tie-in art.


That's funny because I recently got my RIV BE and the code didn't work because it was expired, if you type the url on the card it brings you to a place to purchase the season pass. The actual code expired June 31st IIRC.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funkmetal*
> 
> That's funny because I recently got my RIV BE and the code didn't work because it was expired, if you type the url on the card it brings you to a place to purchase the season pass. The actual code expired June 31st IIRC.


LOL. That's funny. Really funny.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Man you've hit that almost square on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn Voyagers , its those pesky tojo hybrids you gotta watch


Hit a Dodge Journey, going maybe 40, it flipped 3 times. No fault on this end, and just muscle-type stuff to deal with. Wife was driving, our 4 kids with us. So really, if anything was serious-serious, I wouldn't take time to be posting or anything.







Pretty shocking, but all of my family basically walking away is pretty good. And clearly it's a write-off, and I don't mind a new vehicle except the added cost and time to pay for it. XD

...and it's a Doge. They don't sell the "voyager" here in N/A anymore, don't even think Plymouth is a brand anymore, even.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Im glad you explained that mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes I just cant put it into the right words
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box will change just like the RIVE BF3 ones


Considering the post above, it makes sense that someone might ask.







Better cash in the Watch_Dogs code from my MVIIF RIGHT BLOODY NAOW!!!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Ohhhcrap its outta date as well damn...... checking other promo cards............... Ohhhcrap








Dodge voyager its called here and yes its good wheels if that happens and you all walk away ....... lotto ticket time


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Ohhhcrap its outta date as well damn...... checking other promo cards............... Ohhhcrap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dodge voyager its called here and yes its good wheels if that happens and you all walk away ....... lotto ticket time


Huh. That's interesting. It's called Caravan here. Understand why they wouldn't call it that overseas though.









And that was 40 KPH, not MPH. Canada, eh?









I don't payy for my boards, so an expired code is no big deal. But myy son has been eying the box for a couple of weeks now. Theyy just hit retail a while ago, so I'm not too pressed, really, checked the code and it says good to april, but then...this is ASUS> :ROFL.

and my "Y" is double-typing. Guess I need a new keyboard. does ASUS sell them too?


----------



## Fidelitas

One of the new Z97 boards from Asus. Notice the Thunderbolt card.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> One of the new Z97 boards from Asus. Notice the Thunderbolt card.


Yeah, the top is the deluxe...I reviewed it shortly after the platform launched, and have a rig built with it sitting next to me. What do you use that for, exactly? And why are yyou posting it here?


----------



## Shadowarez

Those ThunderBolt cards are for External Displays or HDDs.


----------



## Neb9

A group for ROG product owners.

http://www.overclock.net/groups/show/2223/republic-of-gamers-rog


----------



## Gobigorgohome

In the progress of overclocking my i7-3930K now.

What I currently have is almost the same as "devilhead", he made a video of his bios-settings so I could manage to get a good clock for my CPU, then I played around with one card and it was somewhat stable at 4,5 with 1,376 volts with memory at 1866 Mhz.

Up and running with four cards now and it BSOD's on 1,37-1,4 with four cards. The VCCSA is at 1,12 volts and the VTT I just changed to 1,15 volts (because that was recommended for three cards). Which settings should I use to get 4,5 Ghz?

Running offset-mode now with 0,020 +.


----------



## reev3r

I have always been reluctant to muck about with voltages when of'ing a CPU, mostly from the Athlon64 days when I thought I overvolted my 6400, but seeing some of the voltages you guys post, and the temps as well, I decided a couple of weeks ago to try manual adjustment on my lowly 4820K , first attempt put me at over 4.5GHz, while before I was running around 4.3 and slightly unstable, a little voltage tweak got me higher speeds, AND much greater stability...
Happy.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I am stable at 30 rounds of IntelBurntest on "Standard" and at "very high" with temperatures in the mid 60's after running it for a while. I also did run Tomb Raider and it was okay, but got the same average fps as I had at 3,8 Ghz.

Anyways, when I start Prime95 my worker #2 gets a FATAL ERROR with something saying that some value is too high, apparantly it should be below 0,4 and mine is above 0,5. This thing happend to me last time I tried 4,5 Ghz at offset + 0,020 too (running 1,376-1,392 volts vcore), the temperatures is no problem either on mosfet or on CPU. (I was told that this fault could be caused by too hot mosfet too). That is not the problem here.

I will try to use 4,5 Ghz with a few games and I guess I find out if it is stable enough to use, but the Prime95-thingy is weird none the less.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I am stable at 30 rounds of IntelBurntest on "Standard" and at "very high" with temperatures in the mid 60's after running it for a while. I also did run Tomb Raider and it was okay, but got the same average fps as I had at 3,8 Ghz.
> 
> Anyways, when I start Prime95 my worker #2 gets a FATAL ERROR with something saying that some value is too high, apparantly it should be below 0,4 and mine is above 0,5. This thing happend to me last time I tried 4,5 Ghz at offset + 0,020 too (running 1,376-1,392 volts vcore), the temperatures is no problem either on mosfet or on CPU. (I was told that this fault could be caused by too hot mosfet too). That is not the problem here.
> 
> I will try to use 4,5 Ghz with a few games and I guess I find out if it is stable enough to use, but the Prime95-thingy is weird none the less.


under the p95 advanced menu, just check that "sum inputs" and "round off checking" are ... checked. other than that version 27.9 build 1?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> under the p95 advanced menu, just check that "sum inputs" and "round off checking" are ... checked. other than that version 27.9 build 1?


The Prime95 is version 27.9, yes. I did check those two and still the same thing happening.

It says:

"FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0,5, expected less than 0,4, hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file". The stress.txt file says something about CAS latancy and increase voltage ... not really any big help to me.

Anybody know how I turn off the "asus screenshot capture" that comes up (in-game) if you hit ctrl and tap at the same time. Very frustrating playing BF4 and that coming up now and then. Can't find anything in AI Suite 3 about it.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> The Prime95 is version 27.9, yes. I did check those two and still the same thing happening.
> 
> It says:
> 
> "FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0,5, expected less than 0,4, hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file". The stress.txt file says something about CAS latancy and increase voltage ... not really any big help to me.
> 
> Anybody know how I turn off the "asus screenshot capture" that comes up (in-game) if you hit ctrl and tap at the same time. Very frustrating playing BF4 and that coming up now and then. Can't find anything in AI Suite 3 about it.


So a worker stops, but no bsod or shut down? probably either the OC is not stable enough for p95.. or the memory timings are slightly off... ?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> So a worker stops, but no bsod or shut down? probably either the OC is not stable enough for p95.. or the memory timings are slightly off... ?


Hmmm, it does not BSOD's right after, if the voltage is high enough it will just keep running .... my memory is 9-9-9-27 now, stock it is 9-9-9-24 I think (noticed it in bios today when I was checking the settings). Could that be it?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Those ThunderBolt cards are for External Displays or HDDs.


Yeah, that's why it has dual VIDEO-IN.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Hmmm, it does not BSOD's right after, if the voltage is high enough it will just keep running .... my memory is 9-9-9-27 now, stock it is 9-9-9-24 I think (noticed it in bios today when I was checking the settings). Could that be it?


Could be it needs a tweak to VCCSA or VTT, too. I hate P95, useless test information that seems good at crashing systems only.









And yes, I use it anyway. ROFL.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Hmmm, it does not BSOD's right after, if the voltage is high enough it will just keep running .... my memory is 9-9-9-27 now, stock it is 9-9-9-24 I think (noticed it in bios today when I was checking the settings). Could that be it?


Be sure to set your ram timings and voltages.. etc manually XMP !
we can probably help if you post bios screen shots. insert a usb stick, post to bios and hit F12 on each bios page (scroll where needed).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, that's why it has dual VIDEO-IN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Could be it needs a tweak to VCCSA or VTT, too*. I hate P95, useless test information that seems good at crashing systems only.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, I use it anyway. ROFL.


^^This too.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anybody know how I turn off the "asus screenshot capture" that comes up (in-game) if you hit ctrl and tap at the same time. Very frustrating playing BF4 and that coming up now and then. Can't find anything in AI Suite 3 about it.


i think you mean this



you can shut it off or just hide it

part of amds gaming evolved


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Could be it needs a tweak to VCCSA or VTT, too. I hate P95, useless test information that seems good at crashing systems only.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, I use it anyway. ROFL.


Okay, so how much should I increase the VCCSA and/or VTT? I also hate P95.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Be sure to set your ram timings and voltages.. etc manually XMP !
> we can probably help if you post bios screen shots. insert a usb stick, post to bios and hit F12 on each bios page (scroll where needed).
> ^^This too.


Let's see.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Shadowarez

Hmm you can run ai clicker as Manuel and still boot I'd had better give it a shot.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think you mean this
> 
> 
> 
> you can shut it off or just hide it
> 
> part of amds gaming evolved


It does not seem to be this, because I do not even have AMD Gaming Evolved installed on the computer. Never have either. I just have the AMD 14.4 driver (could not find it there).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Hmm you can run ai clicker as Manuel and still boot I'd had better give it a shot.


Are you referring to me? If so, my "Ai overclocker tuner" is set at "Manual". I could try offset + 0,040 though to see if that solves it, but I do not think it will.


----------



## Shadowarez

Yes sorry on my system if I don't use xmp comp absolutely refuses to boo I get the red led 00.

Ram I have is the Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400mhz and I have 32Gb installed. Tried setting all values to xmp values but it just won't boot without xmp Enabled maybe now that I got system stable and clean I can try it again.


----------



## fishingfanatic

Shadowarez mine won't run over 1866 unless in xmp, but then no problems. I'm running 16gbs of Trident X 2400 mhz.

If I even try 2133 it crashes or simply loops the rog logo.

Stupid as it sounds, try 16gbs and c what happens. Heard of someone who couldn't run 2400 with 32gbs, but ran fine with 16. Even after swapping sticks around, I figured it was going to be fixed on the

next update.

Good luck with that!









FF


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, so how much should I increase the VCCSA and/or VTT? I also hate P95.
> Let's see.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


lookin' good. A few recommendations:
Your system should not drop errors in p95. Even if it does not, it's no guaranty of "stability".
internal PLL - ON
Xtreme Tweak - ON
For 1866 VTT - AUTO
CPU PLL - 1.825
Rampage tweak - Mode 3 (not sure if it will help an SB-E)
Dram Ref cycle Time - SET TO KIT SPEC, same with Command rate
VSCCA LLC - AUTO
VSCCA Current - AUTO
1.1V Switching Freq - 1.3x
CPU VTT Switching Freq - 1.3x
C1E and All other sleep states - AUTO (then check if ssleep mode is okay later)

with your current settings, what is the load cpu voltage with CPUZ (even a superPi load... but p95 if possible)


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anyways, when I start Prime95 my worker #2 gets a FATAL ERROR with something saying that some value is too high, apparantly it should be below 0,4 and mine is above 0,5. This thing happend to me last time I tried 4,5 Ghz at offset + 0,020 too (running 1,376-1,392 volts vcore), the temperatures is no problem either on mosfet or on CPU. (I was told that this fault could be caused by too hot mosfet too). That is not the problem here.
> 
> I will try to use 4,5 Ghz with a few games and I guess I find out if it is stable enough to use, but the Prime95-thingy is weird none the less.


Try to change your DDR3 speed to 1333 MHz, if it would error on the same worker, you are happy owner of 4.4 GHz CPU. (Chiller is sooo not worthy.)


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Jpmboy, I use mode 3 in Rampage Tweak. It helps a lot, in benchies like 3dmark 11 Physics.









What's your opinion on Xtreme Tweak - ON?

Mine is off.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Jpmboy, I use mode 3 in Rampage Tweak. It helps a lot, in benchies like 3dmark 11 Physics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's your opinion on Xtreme Tweak - ON?
> 
> Mine is off.


I don't use it either.

I'd also not recommend using offset mode for voltage. the bet it does is give you more voltage fluctuations based on multi, and a need to set voltage higher than needed.

For GOBIGORGOHOME

CPU LLC set to very high.
VCCSA loadline to Extrme, +130% current level, rampage tweak mode level 3, latency boundry NEARER.

And consider forgetting about offset mode.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> lookin' good. A few recommendations:
> Your system should not drop errors in p95. Eben if it does not, it's no guaranty of "stability".
> internal PLL - ON
> Xtreme Tweak - ON
> For 1866 VTT - AUTO
> CPU PLL - 1.825
> Rampage tweak - Mode 3 (not sure if it will help an SB-E)
> Dram Ref cycle Time - SET TO KIT SPEC, same with Command rate
> VSCCA LLC - AUTO
> VSCCA Current - AUTO
> 1.1V Switching Freq - 1.3x
> CPU VTT Switching Freq - 1.3x
> C1E and All other sleep states - AUTO (then check if ssleep mode is okay later)
> 
> with your current settings, what is the load cpu voltage with CPUZ (even a superPi load... but p95 if possible)


Will try this after work today. Load CPU voltage in CPU-Z with IntelBurnTest is 1,376-1,392 volts. Have not really checked with P95, I will do it tonight when I get home. Sleep mode? Who use sleep mode?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> For GOBIGORGOHOME
> 
> CPU LLC set to very high.
> VCCSA loadline to Extrme, +130% current level, rampage tweak mode level 3, latency boundry NEARER.
> 
> And consider forgetting about offset mode.


I will try this after work today as well, it seems like it is the most stable in offset mode, it BSOD's almost immidiately at 1,37 volts in P95 after it is started. (Then the voltage goes from 1,376 to about 1,404 volts and still not stable). It seems like I have to try to decrease the multiplier to 44 or something, because this is not going to well.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Jpmboy, I use mode 3 in Rampage Tweak. It helps a lot, in benchies like 3dmark 11 Physics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's your opinion on Xtreme Tweak - ON?
> Mine is off.


I've had it enabled. It tightens the tertiary timings a bit... seems a general consensus that enabling it can help performance some. ... question from the guy with amazing physics scores









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I don't use it either.
> I'd also not recommend using offset mode for voltage. the bet it does is give you more voltage fluctuations based on multi, and a need to set voltage higher than needed.
> For GOBIGORGOHOME
> CPU LLC set to very high.
> VCCSA loadline to Extrme, +130% current level, rampage tweak mode level 3, latency boundry NEARER.
> And consider forgetting about offset mode.


offset works fine - but with dynamic voltage, keep LLC low!!!
(I believe vccsa LLC auto = extreme.)

good catch - I missed the latency boundary setting









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Will try this after work today. Load CPU voltage in CPU-Z with *IntelBurnTest is 1,376-1,392* volts. Have not really checked with P95, I will do it tonight when I get home. Sleep mode? Who use sleep mode?
> I will try this after work today as well, it seems like it is the most stable in offset mode, it BSOD's almost immidiately at 1,37 volts in P95 after it is started. (Then the voltage goes from 1,376 to about 1,404 volts and still not stable). It seems like I have to try to decrease the multiplier to 44 or something, because this is not going to well.


Pprobably a good idea to drop back to 46x100 for 24/7 your load voltage should be down around 1.33V.
If you stick with Offset (i use it all the time), enable power control and move the Offset voltage to "Additional Turbo Voltage" so Offset = 5mV and increase Turbo until stable. the concept is to keep minimal in offset and address the dynamic demand for power under load with turbo volts.
lol -sleep mode! then surely set to auto or disabled.


----------



## Raghar

VCCSA is extreme (or was at release) on auto, if they didn't changed it in newest BIOS, VCC was on regular.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I've had it enabled. It tightens the tertiary timings a bit... seems a general consensus that enabling it can help performance some. ... question from the guy with amazing physics scores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> offset works fine - but with dynamic voltage, keep LLC low!!!
> (I believe vccsa LLC auto = extreme.)
> 
> good catch - I missed the latency boubdary setting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pprobably a good idea to drop back to 46x100 for 24/7 your load voltage should be down around 1.33V.
> If you stick with Offset (i use it all the time), enable power control and move the Offset voltage to "Additional Turbo Voltage" so Offset = 5mV and increase Turbo until stable. the concept is to keep minimal in offset and address the dynamic demand for power under load with turbo volts.
> lol -sleep mode! then surely set to auto or disabled.


What processor are you currently overclocking?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> What processor are you currently overclocking?


4960x is in there right now.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I've had it enabled. It tightens the tertiary timings a bit... seems a general consensus that enabling it can help performance some. ... question from the guy with amazing physics scores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> offset works fine - but with dynamic voltage, keep LLC low!!!
> (I believe vccsa LLC auto = extreme.)
> 
> good catch - I missed the latency boundary setting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pprobably a good idea to drop back to 46x100 for 24/7 your load voltage should be down around 1.33V.
> If you stick with Offset (i use it all the time), enable power control and move the Offset voltage to "Additional Turbo Voltage" so Offset = 5mV and increase Turbo until stable. the concept is to keep minimal in offset and address the dynamic demand for power under load with turbo volts.
> lol -sleep mode! then surely set to auto or disabled.


Okay, I am stable at P95 at 1,424 to 1,440 volts at 4,5 Ghz, temperatures under 70 degrees Celsius on every core. 64,3 degree Celsius average on LOAD with 1,44 volts vcore. I set the rest of the setting as you and cadaveca suggested and it seems anything less than 1,4 is unstable with 4,5 Ghz on this chip. I may be able to pick up a 4960x for around 817 USD used from a guy in Norway, hopefully that will do better than this, or I could just use the 3930K at 4,5 Ghz and see what Haswell-E offer. What do you guys think?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, I am stable at P95 at 1,424 to 1,440 volts at 4,5 Ghz, temperatures under 70 degrees Celsius on every core. 64,3 degree Celsius average on LOAD with 1,44 volts vcore. I set the rest of the setting as you and cadaveca suggested and it seems anything less than 1,4 is unstable with 4,5 Ghz on this chip. I may be able to pick up a 4960x for around 817 USD used from a guy in Norway, hopefully that will do better than this, or I could just use the 3930K at 4,5 Ghz and see what Haswell-E offer. What do you guys think?


wait - Cadeveca is talking fixed vcore... the methods only share a few of the same settings. 1.44V is WAAAY to high for 4.5GHz. I'd bet that can come down a lot. Like to well below 1.4V. vcore LLC at Very High .. is not a good thing when using offset.. esprcvially with that much boost. drop it to High. You need vdroop!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> wait - Cadeveca is talking fixed vcore... the methods only share a few of the same settings. 1.44V is WAAAY to high for 4.5GHz. I'd bet that can come down a lot. Like to well below 1.4V. vcore LLC at Very High .. is not a good thing when using offset.. esprcvially with that much boost. drop it to High. You need vdroop!


Okay, what you just said did not really say me much (not a big time overclocker as I am sure you have understood by now). I will take the vcore LLC down to High (by the way, nothing is "Very High" it is just "Ultra High" which I am currently running). It is "High", then it is "Ultra High" and then "Extreme".


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, what you just said did not really say me much (not a big time overclocker as I am sure you have understood by now). I will take the vcore LLC down to High (by the way, nothing is "Very High" it is just "Ultra High" which I am currently running). It is "High", then it is "Ultra High" and then "Extreme".


yes, use LLC HIgh with offset OC. (and be cautious with ultra high or extreme whether using fixed or offset OC methods).


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yes, use LLC HIgh with offset OC. (and be cautious with ultra high or extreme whether using fixed or offset OC methods).


Got a good 15 test runs with P95 with 1,408 volts at 4,5 Ghz, seems fairly stable. I will try to go lower, but I highly doubt it will do less than 1,4 volts stable.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yes, use LLC HIgh with offset OC. (and be cautious with ultra high or extreme whether using fixed or offset OC methods).


Yeah, I meant what you said. As GOBIG said, there is no "very high".

ROFL. I blame the meds. ROFL.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Got a good 15 test runs with P95 with 1,408 volts at 4,5 Ghz, seems fairly stable. I will try to go lower, but I highly doubt it will do less than 1,4 volts stable.


If you aren't doing data crunching or long-term renders, then 1.4V should be OK, and is perfectly fine for gaming, given your temps.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, I meant what you said. As GOBIG said, there is no "very high".
> 
> ROFL. I blame the meds. ROFL.
> If you aren't doing data crunching or long-term renders, then 1.4V should be OK, and is perfectly fine for gaming, given your temps.


I think I will stick with this overclock for this CPU at 1,408 volts (I did run Fire Strike Extreme at Extreme preset and got 14680 points out of it), then my 4x R9 290X's at 1100/1300 with no voltage added, will try a little more with the GPU's since that was only a benchmark test (first overclocking test ever on these cards). I am not doing much beside gaming on this computer, just browsing and watching movies and stuff.

I will do a few more benchmarks to see that everything is working properly, so I hope this will be fine.









Thank you so much guys, I could not have done it without you!


----------



## Jpmboy

you are welcome! ... but why "settle" for 4.5 @ 1.408V? I'd either continue to lower vcore... or go to 4.6.


----------



## Mega Man

finally figured out my reboots, only at idle and when i was away.
hope this helps someone, ...

if you have ai suite installed..



you have to go through all of these tabs and turn off sleep, and monitor shut off,

both have always caused me issues

it will override windows


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> finally figured out my reboots, only at idle and when i was away.
> hope this helps someone, ...
> 
> if you have ai suite installed..
> 
> 
> 
> you have to go through all of these tabs and turn off sleep, and monitor shut off,
> 
> both have always caused me issues
> 
> it will override windows


good catch! (although I never load AI suite







)

@HOMECINEMA-PC
*along these lines* - I'm running 180bclk with 1.65V PLL ... and every once in a while a reboot will hang at A1 (IDE reset). CLRCMOS and reload the settings.. all is good. Do I need more PCIE offset or ??? (bclk -2, PCIE -20)

anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> you are welcome! ... but why "settle" for 4.5 @ 1.408V? I'd either continue to lower vcore... or go to 4.6.


The reason i am settling for 4,5 GHz is because there is no way that i would be able to do 4,6 GHz at 1,408 volts vcore (i sure can try), but i am just looking for better performance to accomplish higher FPS in games. I did run Bf4 at ultra (4x msaa enabled) and did not see any FPS lower than 60. 64-player server multiplayer.

4,6 GHz would be sweet, but i do not think this cpu could do that at 1,408 volts, i will try though.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> The reason i am settling for 4,5 GHz is because there is no way that i would be able to do 4,6 GHz at 1,408 volts vcore (i sure can try), but i am just looking for better performance to accomplish higher FPS in games. I did run Bf4 at ultra (4x msaa enabled) and did not see any FPS lower than 60. 64-player server multiplayer.
> 4,6 GHz would be sweet, but i do not think this cpu could do that at 1,408 volts*, i will try though*.











Try something simple like this
and/or
http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/1110#post_22022831


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> finally figured out my reboots, only at idle and when i was away.
> hope this helps someone, ...
> 
> if you have ai suite installed..
> 
> 
> 
> you have to go through all of these tabs and turn off sleep, and monitor shut off,
> 
> both have always caused me issues
> 
> it will override windows


I find that turning off c3 , c6 and c7 states does help with this sleep thing .......... ive never used it BTW


----------



## Fidelitas

I would really appreciate it, if someone would critique my settings and make some suggestions:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I find that turning off c3 , c6 and c7 states does help with this sleep thing .......... ive never used it BTW


Home, is there away to get a little better performance out of your video cards using bios settings from you mother board.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> good catch! (although I never load AI suite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> @HOMECINEMA-PC
> *along these lines* - I'm running 180bclk with 1.65V PLL ... and every once in a while a reboot will hang at A1 (IDE reset). CLRCMOS and reload the settings.. all is good. Do I need more PCIE offset or ??? (bclk -2, PCIE -20)
> 
> anyone have any suggestions?


-2 or up PLL never played with PCIE









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I would really appreciate it, if someone would critique my settings and make some suggestions:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Home, is there away to get a little better performance out of your video cards using bios settings from you mother board.
Click to expand...

Those settings look okay but I will have a closer look later onski
Honetly man the best way for more card perf is to get temps Down . General rule with electronics . And ive got all performance from vbios modds / unlocked volts and lower temps


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> -2 or up PLL never played with PCIE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those settings look okay but I will have a closer look later onski
> Honetly man the best way for more card perf is to get temps Down . General rule with electronics . And ive got all performance from vbios modds / unlocked volts and lower temps


I agree with the lower temps. Right now I am not in good position to build a good cooling system for my gpu's and cpu. Or better said, the ol' lady is not getting off to how much I spending on computer parts lately. Probably have to sneak a part in here or there, if you get my meaning. I got my eye on a nice pump at the moment.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> you are welcome! ... but why "settle" for 4.5 @ 1.408V? I'd either continue to lower vcore... or go to 4.6.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason i am settling for 4,5 GHz is because there is no way that i would be able to do 4,6 GHz at 1,408 volts vcore (i sure can try), but i am just looking for better performance to accomplish higher FPS in games. I did run Bf4 at ultra (4x msaa enabled) and did not see any FPS lower than 60. 64-player server multiplayer.
> 
> 4,6 GHz would be sweet, but i do not think this cpu could do that at 1,408 volts, i will try though.
Click to expand...

why @ 1.4 (1.408)i am 4.7 stable @ 2400 ram @ 100 strap ! Med LLC


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why @ 1.4 (1.408)i am 4.7 stable @ 2400 ram @ 100 strap ! Med LLC


Hey Mega, can you take a look at my bios settings and see if you can give me any suggestions. Thank you.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2133146/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


----------



## Mega Man

do you actively cool your VRMs?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> do you actively cool your VRMs?


What are VRM's? I don't have any additional coolers on my mb


----------



## Shadowarez

These vrm's are under the shroud near CPU socket. For those I'd remove shroud and put a fan on em.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> These vrm's are under the shroud near CPU socket. For those I'd remove shroud and put a fan on em.


Do I have too much voltage going to them. I don't have a way to get a fan on them at this time.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why @ 1.4 (1.408)i am 4.7 stable @ 2400 ram @ 100 strap ! Med LLC


I just want to know what you guys would have done when it BSOD's on 1,376-1,392 volts vcore with 45 multiplyer? Why not just keep it at 1,408 volts and keep it stable? 4,6 Ghz at 1,408 BSOD's after about 30 seconds in P95 .... so, what then, higher voltage, sure lower voltage would not help .... then I am looking at 1,42-1,45 volts (if not more) for 4,6 Ghz, I do not see the reason to push it that high of voltage if I have to keep it below 1,4 volts for 24/7 usage. So it is unrelevant what settings you are running with your IVB-E (I use SB-E) and you are at different DRAM speed too ... I do not see the reason of grind more over it, my chip does 4,5 Ghz at 1,408 volts. Sure I could be able to reach higher stable clocks with more vcore and a few tweaks here and there, but for stable 24/7 usage (which it will mostly be used at) I am fine with 4,5 Ghz at 1,408 volts. And I say it again, ANYTHING less than 1,4 volts vcore BSOD's.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I just want to know what you guys would have done when it BSOD's on 1,376-1,392 volts vcore with 45 multiplyer? Why not just keep it at 1,408 volts and keep it stable? *4,6 Ghz at 1,408 BSOD's after about 30 seconds in P95* .... so, what then, higher voltage, sure lower voltage would not help .... then I am looking at 1,42-1,45 volts (if not more) for 4,6 Ghz, I do not see the reason to push it that high of voltage if I have to keep it below 1,4 volts for 24/7 usage. So it is unrelevant what settings you are running with your IVB-E (I use SB-E) and you are at different DRAM speed too ... I do not see the reason of grind more over it, my chip does 4,5 Ghz at 1,408 volts. Sure I could be able to reach higher stable clocks with more vcore and a few tweaks here and there, but for stable 24/7 usage (which it will mostly be used at) I am fine with 4,5 Ghz at 1,408 volts. And I say it again, ANYTHING less than 1,4 volts vcore BSOD's.


what bsod? 101 or 124? Is this with OFFSET OC? If yes, you should try a fixedvcore method before giving up on 4.6... And for 4.5GHz you should use 125 strap... it's a sweet spot.

post and change from offset to Manual
set vcore to 1.390
power control to AUTO... do not leave this on enabled (eg, no Additional Turbo Voltage)
Speedstep - DISABLED
LLC HIGH
all other settings like we discussed earlier
if it fails windows load or p95 let us know.

when running p95 be sure to select Custom, set 5 min per FFT. Leave the ram at default for now.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I would really appreciate it, if someone would critique my settings and make some suggestions:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is there a problem with your settings?
Set:
AIOC Tuner to MANUAL
Strap - auto
BCLK - 100
iPLL to ENABLED CPU VTT = 1.10V (16GB ram??? .. and what ram kit??)
VCCSA - 1.13
PLL - 1.825
CPU LLC - HIGH
CPU Current - 160%
CPU VTT Sw Freq - 1.3x
PCH sw freq - 1.3x

or..
CLRCMOS
Manual
strap - 125
multiplier - 36 (= 4.5GHz)
vcore - ... add 50-60mV to your present setting
ram to 2133 or below (leave your timings as is if @ 2133 OR BELOW. YOU CAN TUNE UP THE TIMINGS LATER)
bclk skew to -2 (or -1)
PCIE skew (under cpu tweak) to -20 (or -10)


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Is there a problem with your settings?
> Set:
> AIOC Tuner to MANUAL
> Strap - auto
> BCLK - 100
> iPLL to ENABLED CPU VTT = 1.10V (16GB ram??? .. and what ram kit??)
> VCCSA - 1.13
> PLL - 1.825
> CPU LLC - HIGH
> CPU Current - 160%
> CPU VTT Sw Freq - 1.3x
> PCH sw freq - 1.3x
> 
> or..
> CLRCMOS
> Manual
> strap - 125
> multiplier - 36 (= 4.5GHz)
> vcore - ... add 50-60mV to your present setting
> ram to 2133 or below (leave your timings as is if @ 2133 OR BELOW. YOU CAN TUNE UP THE TIMINGS LATER)
> bclk skew to -2 (or -1)
> PCIE skew (under cpu tweak) to -20 (or -10)


Worked like a charm 4.5 at 1.325 it even runs cooler at this speed and voltage. Thank you very much. Now, I just need to figure out how to get my ram back up to speed again. I have 64gb of PC17000 2133

What does the BLCK Skew and PCI Skew do. Those are two new ones on me. Also, should I be running some kind of fan on my VTR's?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> what bsod? 101 or 124? Is this with OFFSET OC? If yes, you should try a fixedvcore method before giving up on 4.6... And for 4.5GHz you should use 125 strap... it's a sweet spot.
> 
> post and change from offset to Manual
> set vcore to 1.390
> power control to AUTO... do not leave this on enabled (eg, no Additional Turbo Voltage)
> Speedstep - DISABLED
> LLC HIGH
> all other settings like we discussed earlier
> if it fails windows load or p95 let us know.
> 
> when running p95 be sure to select Custom, set 5 min per FFT. Leave the ram at default for now.


He is definitely right about the sweet spot. Mine if running cooler with a 125 strap than the 100.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Worked like a charm 4.5 at 1.325 it even runs cooler at this speed and voltage. Thank you very much. Now, I just need to figure out how to get my ram back up to speed again. I have 64gb of PC17000 2133
> 
> *What does the BLCK Skew and PCI Skew do*. Those are two new ones on me. Also, should I be running some kind of fan on my VTR's?


erm... 64GB will limit your cpu OC. let me check your ram options... but pay attention to your cpu vtt and vccsa settings. you want to have tight control of these with 64GB RAM

best to have @[email protected] answer that question.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> erm... 64GB will limit your cpu OC. let me check your ram options... but pay attention to your cpu vtt and vccsa settings. you want to have tight control of these with 64GB RAM


Sorry, that was a typo, VRM's I was asked if I had a fan on them. As for the VTT and Vccsa settings, where should they be at and should I take some of that RAM out. I really don't need 64gb of RAM. I kind of got stupid there.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Sorry, that was a typo, VRM's I was asked if I had a fan on them. As for the VTT and Vccsa settings, where should they be at and should I take some of that RAM out. I really don't need 64gb of RAM. I kind of got stupid there.


Since you have 8GB sticks... taking it down to 4x8 won't help all that much. keep cpu vtt below 1.2V and ideally below 1.156V. Keep VCCSA below 1.2V and Ideally no higher that 1.15V. These settings should be within 50mV of each other (0.05V) per intel's spec. I's set that ram to 2000 (if it cannot hold 2333 at <1.7V). with 2000, you may be able to lower the timings some.

When using 125 strap, you can probably lower PLL below 1.7V. I run 1.65V.

give this a read: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907

AND PLEASE FILL OUT RIG BUILDER AND ADD YOU RIG TO YOUR SIGNATURE BLOCK (see mine? - it's easy). this way we can see what you are working with when trying to help you.









okay - you can increase bclk to 133.25 and lower your multiplier 2 notches.. adjust vcore slightly if needed based on the new cpu frequency. That will give you 2133 ram. Maybe your cpu can do 133?

*EDIT:*

@Fidelitas here's 2133 ram with 133.25 BCLK:


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Since you have 8GB sticks... taking it down to 4x8 won't help all that much. keep cpu vtt below 1.2V and ideally below 1.156V. Keep VCCSA below 1.2V and Ideally no higher that 1.15V. These settings should be within 50mV of each other (0.05V) per intel's spec. I's set that ram to 2000 (if it cannot hold 2333 at <1.7V). with 2000, you may be able to lower the timings some.
> 
> When using 125 strap, you can probably lower PLL below 1.7V. I run 1.65V.
> 
> give this a read: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907
> 
> AND PLEASE FILL OUT RIG BUILDER AND ADD YOU RIG TO YOUR SIGNATURE BLOCK (see mine? - it's easy). this wat we can see what you are working with when trying to help


Thank you so very much. You have been a great help. You did not mention anything about fans on my vmr's? Also, could you tell me what vcore your at on 4.5 with your 4930k or 4960X?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Thank you so very much. You have been a great help. You did not mention anything about fans on my vmr's? Also, could you tell me what vcore your at on 4.5 with your 4930k or 4960X?


That was a great article. I liked his mention of going to a higher blck as well saying that it takes less vcore because the processor deals with less error. I am curious, have you tried going to higher blcks?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Thank you so very much. You have been a great help. You did not mention anything about fans on my vmr's? Also, could you tell me what vcore your at on 4.5 with your 4930k or 4960X?


if you have good air flow in your case, you should be okay. You'll know if you trip the thermal protection module







A fan pointing at the CPU area is what that refers to. with this 4960X, 4.375 is 1.190V, 4.5 is 1.280V. 4.625 is 1.328V. 4.875 is 1.455V llc high. each 100MHz cost ~ 10mV per core in the sweetspot for a cpu. more when you go beyond that. My 4930K is a low voltage sample. [email protected]

yes - 128.5, 166, and 180. and a few between


----------



## fishingfanatic

I can get 4.6 @ 1.35 vcore no worries, never an issue.

As I'm still pretty new to ocing though I would suggest u try additional turbo of .080-.116.

I got my chip to 4.8 @ around 1.43 stable. Are u adjusting ur offset at all? Mine is set to .090.

LLC to high...

Hope that helps a bit.

Anyone have issues with these settings?

FF


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> what bsod? 101 or 124? Is this with OFFSET OC? If yes, you should try a fixedvcore method before giving up on 4.6... And for 4.5GHz you should use 125 strap... it's a sweet spot.
> 
> post and change from offset to Manual
> set vcore to 1.390
> power control to AUTO... do not leave this on enabled (eg, no Additional Turbo Voltage)
> Speedstep - DISABLED
> LLC HIGH
> all other settings like we discussed earlier
> if it fails windows load or p95 let us know.
> 
> when running p95 be sure to select Custom, set 5 min per FFT. Leave the ram at default for now.


Should I use 125 strap at 4,6 Ghz too?

If I turn on CPU strap to 125 I get 5625 mhz and 2333 mhz ram ... then I have to compensate with lower multiplyer then?

Did you mean try 1,39 volts with manual with 4,5 Ghz or with 4,6 Ghz?

The CPU Strap is BCLK overclocking? Then I could not do 46 in multiplyer.
Speedstep I could not find.
Power control? Which power control? Please be more spesific, there is MANY options to choose from here ....


----------



## Kimir

You can, however I'd personally prefer to use offset voltage for daily and that mean no 125 strap.
Yes, you just have to lower the multi to get what you want.

Speedstep should be in in CPU setting, not in Extreme tweaker tab, but in Advanced (the BE bios is a little different to the RIVE, so I'm not sure).
the power control he's referring to should be in the CPU performance settings (power limit control), it should already be in Auto if you didn't tweaked it.

Btw I recommend to use Turbo Vcore 1.00.23 (the light version) to help you find the sweet spot of vcore needed for stability.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Should I use 125 strap at 4,6 Ghz too?
> 
> If I turn on CPU strap to 125 I get 5625 mhz and 2333 mhz ram ... then I have to compensate with lower multiplyer then?
> 
> Did you mean try 1,39 volts with manual with 4,5 Ghz or with 4,6 Ghz?
> 
> The CPU Strap is BCLK overclocking? Then I could not do 46 in multiplyer.
> Speedstep I could not find.
> Power control? Which power control? Please be more spesific, there is MANY options to choose from here ....


this is probably easier.

140804134623.zip 1229k .zip file

these are for 4.750. drop the multi to give 4.5GHZ lower ram to 2000 or lower (at least until you get the CPU set up) and stay below 1.4V for 24/7... ideally no higher than 1.35V with LLC High. so lower multi until you get a stable system at that voltage, then we can work it back up.

or as Kimir said.. for lower overclocks (<4.8... although I use offset for that too) read this:

Try something simple like this to get going with offset

http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/1110#post_22022831


----------



## alancsalt

Hasn't it always been the case (so far) that offset was only good for the 24/7 "safe" overclock region..?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Hasn't it always been the case (so far) that offset was only good for the 24/7 "safe" overclock region..?


I would agree. It really depends on whether you can stay well below the intel spec. The voltage fluctuation is not the issue, it's the load transition spikes (which occur at a constant=nt voltage). So LLC level is really important with offset. Stay low.









hey - what happened with that blaze?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Hasn't it always been the case (so far) that offset was only good for the 24/7 "safe" overclock region..?


Not really according to ASUS...at least until recently. I think it's more important to consider what JPMBOY said...you need vDroop. This is still GTL-based, droop saves your stuff. OFfset merely lowers power consumption so that cost of ownership is less...but at the same time, CPU draws what it needs only... SO if you run 1.4v 24/7, with no offset, and 4.5 GHz, but CPU is mostly idle, power consumption is only a few watts more than using offset.

Investigating this is why I'm the only reviewer out there (at least, until recently, or that I know of) that measures and reports power consumption via EPS connector. I wanted to eliminate PSU efficiency factors and focus on board draw only. So I can safely say that either way is fine, hardware-wise, having run SB-E since launch in both ways on identical systems (built with P9X79 Deluxe), and also, that offset is better for your wallet, and has no tangible effects on performance. Intel designed these chips to scale clocks under use, after all.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> this is probably easier.
> 
> 140804134623.zip 1229k .zip file
> 
> these are for 4.750. drop the multi to give 4.5GHZ lower ram to 2000 or lower (at least until you get the CPU set up) and stay below 1.4V for 24/7... ideally no higher than 1.35V with LLC High. so lower multi until you get a stable system at that voltage, then we can work it back up.
> 
> or as Kimir said.. for lower overclocks (<4.8... although I use offset for that too) read this:
> 
> Try something simple like this to get going with offset
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/1110#post_22022831


I did crank the multiplyer to 46, I tried manual (not offset) and it booted up fine but BSOD 124 at 1,4 volts too (1,424 volts on CPU-Z under P95). With multiplyer on 45, then manual voltage 1,39 volts is good (seems to stay at the same voltage as offset + 0,010 did).

I could not download the zip-file you attached now (will try tomorrow on the X79), I will set the voltage to 1,35 and try to get a stable clock on that and then post back here.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Not really according to ASUS...at least until recently. I think it's more important to consider what JPMBOY said...you need vDroop. This is still GTL-based, droop saves your stuff. OFfset merely lowers power consumption so that cost of ownership is less...but at the same time, CPU draws what it needs only... SO if you run 1.4v 24/7, with no offset, and 4.5 GHz, but CPU is mostly idle, power consumption is only a few watts more than using offset.
> 
> Investigating this is why I'm the only reviewer out there (at least, until recently, or that I know of) that measures and reports power consumption via EPS connector. I wanted to eliminate PSU efficiency factors and focus on board draw only. So I can safely say that either way is fine, hardware-wise, having run SB-E since launch in both ways on identical systems (built with P9X79 Deluxe), and also, that offset is better for your wallet, and has no tangible effects on performance. *Intel designed these chips to scale clocks under use, after all.*











we used fixed vcore.. and ignore a decade of R&D at Intel leading to turbo, speedstep, and dynamic voltage control. I'm as guilty as any (although 75% of the time my rig is on offset... and my 2700K has been 4.6-4.8 with offset since, well years.)
I do go to a fixed vcore when really pushing above 1.4 on IBE.

"learn to love vdroop" !!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I did crank the multiplyer to 46, I tried manual (not offset) and it booted up fine but BSOD 124 at 1,4 volts too (1,424 volts on CPU-Z under P95). With multiplyer on 45, then manual voltage 1,39 volts is good (seems to stay at the same voltage as offset + 0,010 did).
> 
> I could not download the zip-file you attached now (will try tomorrow on the X79), I will set the voltage to 1,35 and try to get a stable clock on that and then post back here.


excuse me if you've done this already.. but a look at you current bios settings for 46 would help....

edit:

when using offset (which I know you are not right now) you need to select "enabled" in th blue circle below. You will then see "additional turbo voltage" increase this slowly - it does 4mV increments) until you get something stable, 45x100, or 46x100. Hwen you leave this on auto, you have not controlled the vcore ceiling.

it's hard to believe your cpu needs 1.4+V for 4.5 or 4.6GHz. Buy the intel tuning plan.. you may need it. what temps are are you getting at idle and under load (with any clock - even stock??)


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> excuse me if you've done this already.. but a look at you current bios settings for 46 would help....
> 
> edit:
> 
> when using offset (which I know you are not right now) you need to select "enabled" in th blue circle below. You will then see "additional turbo voltage" increase this slowly - it does 4mV increments) until you get something stable, 45x100, or 46x100. Hwen you leave this on auto, you have not controlled the vcore ceiling.
> 
> it's hard to believe your cpu needs 1.4+V for 4.5 or 4.6GHz. Buy the intel tuning plan.. you may need it. what temps are are you getting at idle and under load (with any clock - even stock??)


hou
Hey Jpmboy, I just went out and purchased another 4960x hoping to get one that was a little more voltage friendly. How long should I run it on stock settings before I start giving it some OC?


----------



## Raghar

Offset is downright harmful when you'd like underclocking. Voltage can swing quite low, and then you are thinking about how large was minimum voltage for your CPU.

I wonder what's with people saying:"Intel spend big money and decade on research on turbo, thus Intel must be far better than a skilled overclocker with talent and intuition."? What kinda works are C states. EIST kinda works but user should know why he want to use it. (It's harmful in certain very uncommon situations.) Dynamic voltage control is: we mimic overclockers without really knowing what we are doing. Turbo is actually useful for underclocking and lowering speed in summer heats. Setting max amperes to 60-80 would limit CPU speed to sensible level, and user can game without cooking his PC (basically it's the same stuff as laptop are using).

Overclockers are thriving on safety margins. When a commercial company would try to decrease these margins with things like auto overclocking, turbo, or dynamic voltage, sooner or later they would cross the line, and reliability of CPUs would go out of window.

(I actually kinda worry about 14 nm, and 10 nm CPUs. These margins would be really thin.)

I used PFC for estimating PSU efficiency when I measured wattage, and then recalculated to real wattage. It kinda works. Actually I wonder about VRM efficiency measurements. Is there a way how to do that?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> hou
> Hey Jpmboy, I just went out and purchased another 4960x hoping to get one that was a little more voltage friendly. How long should I run it on stock settings before I start giving it some OC?


they all start out tight.. then over time the lithography "rounds out"... usually requiring slightly more voltage to hold a given frequency. .... so basically I have no answer to your question.








Some members go gently up the ladder.. some take advantage of the new silicon.
Before buying - you should have checked any one of the batch number lists. I have the link somewhere.

*edit:* http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=84216
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Offset is downright harmful when you'd like underclocking. Voltage can swing quite low, and then you are thinking about how large was minimum voltage for your CPU.
> 
> I wonder what's with people saying:"Intel spend big money and decade on research on turbo, thus Intel must be far better than a skilled overclocker with talent and intuition."? What kinda works are C states. EIST kinda works but user should know why he want to use it. (It's harmful in certain very uncommon situations.) Dynamic voltage control is: we mimic overclockers without really knowing what we are doing. Turbo is actually useful for underclocking and lowering speed in summer heats. Setting max amperes to 60-80 would limit CPU speed to sensible level, and user can game without cooking his PC (basically it's the same stuff as laptop are using).
> 
> Overclockers are thriving on safety margins. When a commercial company would try to decrease these margins with things like auto overclocking, turbo, or dynamic voltage, sooner or later they would cross the line, and reliability of CPUs would go out of window.
> 
> (I actually kinda worry about 14 nm, and 10 nm CPUs. These margins would be really thin.)
> 
> I used PFC for estimating PSU efficiency when I measured wattage, and then recalculated to real wattage. It kinda works. Actually I wonder about VRM efficiency measurements. Is there a way how to do that?


say what? Meds working well?
Underclocking? Maybe you have the wrong thread (or forum)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> we mimic overclockers without really knowing what we are doing.


Speak for yourself.







ROFL.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> These vrm's are under the shroud near CPU socket. For those I'd remove shroud and put a fan on em.
> 
> 
> 
> Do I have too much voltage going to them. I don't have a way to get a fan on them at this time.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why @ 1.4 (1.408)i am 4.7 stable @ 2400 ram @ 100 strap ! Med LLC
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I asked. (They are to the left and also above the cpu socket)
> Is I always do before doing what I was going to tell you. Which one of them will shut down the thermal safes for the vrms. Without a fan on them you could have a dead board.. also the rest push the vrms to the limit
> I just want to know what you guys would have done when it BSOD's on 1,376-1,392 volts vcore with 45 multiplyer? Why not just keep it at 1,408 volts and keep it stable? 4,6 Ghz at 1,408 BSOD's after about 30 seconds in P95 .... so, what then, higher voltage, sure lower voltage would not help .... then I am looking at 1,42-1,45 volts (if not more) for 4,6 Ghz, I do not see the reason to push it that high of voltage if I have to keep it below 1,4 volts for 24/7 usage. So it is unrelevant what settings you are running with your IVB-E (I use SB-E) and you are at different DRAM speed too ... I do not see the reason of grind more over it, my chip does 4,5 Ghz at 1,408 volts. Sure I could be able to reach higher stable clocks with more vcore and a few tweaks here and there, but for stable 24/7 usage (which it will mostly be used at) I am fine with 4,5 Ghz at 1,408 volts. And I say it again, ANYTHING less than 1,4 volts vcore BSOD's.
Click to expand...

U mm I have a 3930k. Not a 49xx


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> they all start out tight.. then over time the lithography "rounds out"... usually requiring slightly more voltage to hold a given frequency. .... so basically I have no answer to your question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some members go gently up the ladder.. some take advantage of the new silicon.
> Before buying - you should have checked any one of the batch number lists. I have the link somewhere.
> 
> *edit:* http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=84216
> say what? Meds working well?
> Underclocking? Maybe you have the wrong thread (or forum)


She is definitely not a piggy Jpm. 1.225 at 4.5 125x36, vit 1.15, vccsa 1.145, PLL 1.65 blck scew -2, pci skew -20 I have it all within Intel specifications, just as the article said. Ran it up to 4.6, at 1.230, staying with other settings, but raising the pll 1.80, no problems at all and I pretty sure I can drop her down a notch or two on the vcore. highest temps 67c. I have ordered all of my water blocks, pump, reservoir and two radiators, so I am good to go. I found a company that actually sells blocks for both VMR's, so I think I am going to order that when I get some more money. Thank's for everything. You really helped me referring me to that UK link. I learned a great deal from him and reading [email protected] comments on the Extreme OC site.

I think I am very good to go with this new system. I have a spare board now (got it back from Asus - a new one) and two spare processors, a 4930k never used, and a 4960x, with about a months use. If something goes down I am covered. I bought the Intel protection plan on all three processors, so now I just need to get an extra Radeon 295 and I will be completely covered. I think I am going to yank out 32gb of the 64gb and shelve that as well. I am now convinced that 8gb is enough for anyone. When money permits, I think I will buy some higher speed ram and go 4x4gb so I don't lose the quad advantage.

When I was over at Fry's picking up the processor today, I seen the new EVGA Dark Edition. I think the RIVE blows it away and it does not even deserved to be compared to the RIVBE.


----------



## Fidelitas

http://valid.canardpc.com/br86p6



There really is no substitute for a RIVBE. How about 4.6 at 160 blck under 1.40 vcore


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> excuse me if you've done this already.. but a look at you current bios settings for 46 would help....
> 
> edit:
> 
> when using offset (which I know you are not right now) you need to select "enabled" in th blue circle below. You will then see "additional turbo voltage" increase this slowly - it does 4mV increments) until you get something stable, 45x100, or 46x100. Hwen you leave this on auto, you have not controlled the vcore ceiling.
> 
> it's hard to believe your cpu needs 1.4+V for 4.5 or 4.6GHz. Buy the intel tuning plan.. you may need it. what temps are are you getting at idle and under load (with any clock - even stock??)


I did try the BCLK settings you had, but I did not get any clocks higher than 4,4 Ghz in CPU-Z while P95 at 1,408 volts ... whatever.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















I have just done a run with 46x100 offset + 0,020, vcore in CPU-Z while P95 custom 5 min per FFT on 10 minutes. Additional turbo voltage set at 0,008, LLC high, current 180% (did BSOD 101 on 160%), I also tried additional turbo voltage on 0,012 (which also where stable), it BSOD's 124 on offset + 0,010 and the same settings on the rest at 4,6 Ghz. Same settings pretty much as the above screenshots. Additional turbo voltage at 0,016 gave another BSOD 101.
As for voltage seen in CPU-Z, mostly 1,424 volts, dip down to 1,408 (now and then) and very rarely up to 1,44 volts (did see it twice in 10 minutes).

Screenshot of P95 temperatures, idle pretty much mid 30's (stock or overclocked), load temperatures mid 60's to high 60's, core 1 hit 70 C. Devilhead on OCN told me 10 minutes of P95 with much RAM testing should mean stable overclock for 3930K's.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I did try the BCLK settings you had, but I did not get any clocks higher than 4,4 Ghz in CPU-Z while P95 at 1,408 volts ... whatever.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have just done a run with 46x100 offset + 0,020, vcore in CPU-Z while P95 custom 5 min per FFT on 10 minutes. Additional turbo voltage set at 0,008, LLC high, current 180% (did BSOD 101 on 160%), I also tried additional turbo voltage on 0,012 (which also where stable), it BSOD's 124 on offset + 0,010 and the same settings on the rest at 4,6 Ghz. Same settings pretty much as the above screenshots. Additional turbo voltage at 0,016 gave another BSOD 101.
> As for voltage seen in CPU-Z, mostly 1,424 volts, dip down to 1,408 (now and then) and very rarely up to 1,44 volts (did see it twice in 10 minutes).
> 
> Screenshot of P95 temperatures, idle pretty much mid 30's (stock or overclocked), load temperatures mid 60's to high 60's, core 1 hit 70 C. Devilhead on OCN told me 10 minutes of P95 with much RAM testing should mean stable overclock for 3930K's.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think you are good! with that 3930K, don't be shy of running closer to 1.5V... they handle it much better than a 49xx.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I think you are good! with that 3930K, don't be shy of running closer to 1.5V... they handle it much better than a 49xx.


That is good, then it will be 4,6 Ghz ... do you have any suggestions for overclocking R9 290X's on water? I currently have 1100/1300 with 30% power limit and no mV added in MSI AB. Sig rig with 1x EVGA G2 1300W alone on 4x R9 290X's so they should have enough juice for some good clocks.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> She is definitely not a piggy Jpm. 1.225 at 4.5 125x36, vit 1.15, vccsa 1.145, PLL 1.65 blck scew -2, pci skew -20 I have it all within Intel specifications, just as the article said. Ran it up to 4.6, at 1.230, staying with other settings, but raising the pll 1.80, no problems at all and I pretty sure I can drop her down a notch or two on the vcore. highest temps 67c. I have ordered all of my water blocks, pump, reservoir and two radiators, so I am good to go. I found a company that actually sells blocks for both VMR's, so I think I am going to order that when I get some more money. Thank's for everything. You really helped me referring me to that UK link. I learned a great deal from him and reading [email protected] comments on the Extreme OC site.
> 
> I think I am very good to go with this new system. I have a spare board now (got it back from Asus - a new one) and two spare processors, a 4930k never used, and a 4960x, with about a months use. If something goes down I am covered. I bought the Intel protection plan on all three processors, so now I just need to get an extra Radeon 295 and I will be completely covered. I think I am going to yank out 32gb of the 64gb and shelve that as well. I am now convinced that 8gb is enough for anyone. When money permits, I think I will buy some higher speed ram and go 4x4gb so I don't lose the quad advantage.
> 
> When I was over at Fry's picking up the processor today, I seen the new EVGA Dark Edition. I think the RIVE blows it away and it does not even deserved to be compared to the RIVBE.


what's the batch number?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> That is good, then it will be 4,6 Ghz ... do you have any suggestions for overclocking R9 290X's on water? I currently have 1100/1300 with 30% power limit and no mV added in MSI AB. Sig rig with 1x EVGA G2 1300W alone on 4x R9 290X's so they should have enough juice for some good clocks.


best to check in on the R290X thread.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> they all start out tight.. then over time the lithography "rounds out"... usually requiring slightly more voltage to hold a given frequency. .... so basically I have no answer to your question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some members go gently up the ladder.. some take advantage of the new silicon.
> Before buying - you should have checked any one of the batch number lists. I have the link somewhere.
> *edit:* http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=84216
> *say what? Meds working well?
> Underclocking? Maybe you have the wrong thread (or forum)*












I wish I had of thought of looking at that dang list .








Both are Costa's
4960X #3333B508
4930k #3351B547
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Speak for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ROFL.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> U mm I have a 3930k. Not a 49xx


Im very pleased that you recognise that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/br86p6
> 
> 
> 
> There really is no substitute for a RIVBE. How about 4.6 at 160 blck under 1.40 vcore


Well done 2133 64gb 4.6









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I think you are good! with that 3930K, don't be shy of running closer to 1.5V... they handle it much better than a 49xx.


I think you are betterer








3930k is a tank I used to bench @ 1.7vc ++ 6mths solid ! LoooooooL


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> When money permits, I think I will buy some higher speed ram and go 4x4gb so I don't lose the quad advantage.


I have a brand new (factory-sealed, was a rma replacement for a blown set of GTs) kit of Corsair Platinum 2133 C9 1.5v I'm looking to get rid of. If you're interested PM me - I'll give you a good deal on em.







They're 1.5v rated, should be great for overclocking.

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-5v-16-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd16gx3m4a2133c9


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> they all start out tight.. then over time the lithography "rounds out"... usually requiring slightly more voltage to hold a given frequency. .... so basically I have no answer to your question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some members go gently up the ladder.. some take advantage of the new silicon.
> Before buying - you should have checked any one of the batch number lists. I have the link somewhere.
> 
> *edit:* http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=84216
> say what? Meds working well?
> Underclocking? Maybe you have the wrong thread (or forum)


Mine is not on the list. It is batch no. 3332B149 made in Costa Rica


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Mine is not on the list. It is batch no. 3332B149 made in Costa Rica


pm doug2507 with the batch # and results. see that thread for what you need as proof... not sure if it is still updated tho.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I would agree. It really depends on whether you can stay well below the intel spec. The voltage fluctuation is not the issue, it's the load transition spikes (which occur at a constant=nt voltage). So LLC level is really important with offset. Stay low.


This was my concern too. Using offset watching the vcore at .9xx then jump to 1.3xx when a background program runs, then back down to .9xx. With that much fluctuation it can't be that good. I'm think of just going back to a fixed vcore. If it idles most of the time anyway, like Cadaveca said, it's only a few more watts. Are most of you using offset or fixed?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> This was my concern too. Using offset watching the vcore at .9xx then jump to 1.3xx when a background program runs, then back down to .9xx. With that much fluctuation it can't be that good. I'm think of just going back to a fixed vcore. If it idles most of the time anyway, like Cadaveca said, it's only a few more watts. Are most of you using offset or fixed?


I'd guess, fixed.
Me, both... really depends on what frequency. The voltage movement you mention is not the issue when using offset, it is the load transition spikes (transients - not measured with any software, or DMM for that matter - need to use an occ scope), which occur with fixed or Offset, when the cpu load changes once it is at the requested vcore. THat's why it's best to use a low LLC in either case - eg, as much vdroop as you can handle. As much as that dynamic voltage bothers us, which you point out... so should a cpu sitting with 1.4V "at the gate"... hence in-rush current control. current kills, not voltage.

4.8 fixed vcore @ 1.408V idles at 18W according to coretemp. 4.8 offset idles at 14W (0.860V) . BUt this IS OCN? right?
Once you get into the >4.7GHz range on an IB-E, especially for benchmarking, the general preference is to use a fixed vcore.
Preference is more religion than science for most "safe zone" clocks.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Preference is more religion than science for most "safe zone" clocks.


Completely. It's also easier to stabilize a single clock than it is to stabilize the offset needed for every clock interval between idle and load.







I'm using fixed @ 4.5 GHz w/2666 mem, system sleeps and everything without any issues at all. But the only voltages I've pushed up for this clock with this chip is vCPU and vDIMM, all the rest are forced to "stock" settings.

What's more interesting to me is that this board, with it's "all core" multi setting automatically enabled with XMP, sets voltage higher than what I use daily. ROFL. I can push higher CPU speed, no problem, but it's like 32c in this room right now and I don't need more compute power than what 4.5 GHz provides.


----------



## Fidelitas

Does anyone out there have any information. preferably a link, on how high bus speeds affect a processor degradation, mother board and or other components? Thank's all.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Does anyone out there have any information. preferably a link, on how high bus speeds affect a processor degradation, mother board and or other components? Thank's all.


it doesn't affect it at all. the ONLY thing that affects degradation is current draw. I don't give links, since they'd be my own posts from my site.










ROFL.

It's funny when some users say to me "You're trying to act like a guru"(speaking about someone specific in another thread)... but really... I already am and such stuff ain't crap I care about since what any forum poster thinks isn't gonna affect all the hardware I get for free.









Really though, clocks are generated, still, by PLL loops and quartz crystals...either the crystal supports the clock or it doesn't...this stuff isn't really as complicated as some would have you believe.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> current kills, not voltage.


Voltage kills like a lighting strike. Current kills like a welding torch.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I'd guess, fixed.
> Me, both... really depends on what frequency. The voltage movement you mention is not the issue when using offset, it is the load transition spikes (transients - not measured with any software, or DMM for that matter - need to use an occ scope), which occur with fixed or Offset, when the cpu load changes once it is at the requested vcore. THat's why it's best to use a low LLC in either case - eg, as much vdroop as you can handle. As much as that dynamic voltage bothers us, which you point out... so should a cpu sitting with 1.4V "at the gate"... hence in-rush current control. current kills, not voltage.
> 
> 4.8 fixed vcore @ 1.408V idles at 18W according to coretemp. 4.8 offset idles at 14W (0.860V) . BUt this IS OCN? right?
> Once you get into the >4.7GHz range on an IB-E, especially for benchmarking, the general preference is to use a fixed vcore.
> Preference is more religion than science for most "safe zone" clocks.


Makes sense.









Which bios are you guys using? I'm using the original 0403 I believe it is.


----------



## Raghar

I tried to play with CL7 DDR3 today. What timings should I use? I tried 7-7-7-21 but I was forced to change it to 7-8-7-21 when I didn't want to increase voltage. (Low latency, or high speed, that's the question.)


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I had of thought of looking at that dang list .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both are Costa's
> 4960X #3333B508
> 4930k #3351B547


Mine is also made in Costa Rica, is that bad?

4930K #3352B350


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Makes sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which bios are you guys using? I'm using the original 0403 I believe it is.


The best:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I tried to play with CL7 DDR3 today. What timings should I use? I tried 7-7-7-21 but I was forced to change it to 7-8-7-21 when I didn't want to increase voltage. (Low latency, or high speed, that's the question.)


6-8-6 would be better for latency, no? Bandwidth is excessive on this platform, don't worry about THAT. SB-E is 1333 support only, IVB-E 1600. 1600 on SB-E and 1866 on IVB-E is already more than either needs.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> The best:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My board came with 0403. I haven't had any issues, so I haven't updated it. I saw some of the newer versions say for "stability", which could mean anything. Lol


----------



## Jpmboy

cadeveca has a pre-release version. the board launched with 403 if i remember correctly. Another guy around here has it too







I'm on 602 right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Voltage kills like a lighting strike. Current kills like a welding torch.


don't count on a lightening strike to be low current...


----------



## Raghar

I had "CPU fan error" occasional boot messages until I updated to 701, it solved boot problems completely. Kinda wonder what was happening here. 403 is basically beta BIOS, it works perfectly on some combination of CPU and RAM, for others is less than optimal, and for rare cases it produces "CPU fan error" messages.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> it doesn't affect it at all. the ONLY thing that affects degradation is current draw. I don't give links, since they'd be my own posts from my site.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ROFL.
> *It's funny when some users say to me "You're trying to act like a guru"*(speaking about someone specific in another thread)... but really... I already am and such stuff ain't crap I care about since what any forum poster thinks isn't gonna affect all the hardware I get for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really though, clocks are generated, still, by PLL loops and quartz crystals...either the crystal supports the clock or it doesn't...this stuff isn't really as complicated as some would have you believe.


Ignore the trolls and share what knowledge you care to... basic forum survival.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Ignore the trolls and share what knowledge you care to... basic forum survival.


Heh. I have four kids. Is no big deal at all... I find it rather cute. (seriously, cute.







)


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Ignore the trolls and share what knowledge you care to... basic forum survival.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Heh. I have four kids. Is no big deal at all... I find it rather cute. (seriously, cute.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

You two are a right pair ....... LooooL


----------



## alancsalt

They are indeed right....


----------



## cadaveca

"If they don't find ya handsome, they should at least find ya handy..."

-Red Green.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> My board came with 0403. I haven't had any issues, so I haven't updated it. I saw some of the newer versions say for "stability", which could mean anything. Lol


I have bought two RIVBE in the past three months and they both came with 6.01. I just had a new one sent to me from Asus due to an RMA, and it came with 6.01 too. I have not seen any real noticeable difference in the 7.01 bios, but in benchmarking with Cinebench, Futuremark and 3Dmark, I have seen slight score increases. Has anyone tried the new 8.01 beta bios. It says its for up-ing the maximum RAM from 64 to 128gb, using 16gb sticks. I personally have not seen a 16gb memory stick advertised yet. I wonder how far in the future that will be and when software will take advantage of anything over 8gb?

Embarrassingly, I bought 64gb and I have to admit that I am feeling like a real..........



for doing it. I could of spent that money on some components that would of made a bigger difference.


----------



## Fidelitas

Cadaveca

"If they don't find ya handsome, they should at least find ya handy..."

-Red Green.

No truer words were ever spoken!


----------



## Fidelitas

I am curious about something. It seems like going with a high blck is a good way to get a higher clock with less voltage and heat. If that is the case, why do so many stay with the 100 blck and OC raising the vcore and multiplier? Is it not much simpler to just raise the blck and fine tune your voltages? What about strap? It seems like there are so many different ways to get there but one thing for sure, staying at 100 blck, seems like it is the wrong way to go about getting a good OC.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I am curious about something. It seems like going with a high blck is a good way to get a higher clock with less voltage and heat. If that is the case, why do so many stay with the 100 blck and OC raising the vcore and multiplier? Is it not much simpler to just raise the blck and fine tune your voltages? What about strap? It seems like there are so many different ways to get there but one thing for sure, staying at 100 blck, seems like it is the wrong way to go about getting a good OC.


Simply because staying on 100 BCLK is easier to "stabilize", and faster to find the limit of.

Yet, some Intel staff have stated "Some things need to be set lower"...multi? a specific voltage? That was not answered. The discovery of what that thing is, that's what separates the wheat from the chaff.


----------



## alancsalt

Not vccsa and vtt?


----------



## inlandchris

Handsome... Thats funny, great!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Not vccsa and vtt?


You, sir, are a troll. ROFL.

See below.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*


Basically.

but a little of this:










Now that news has come out that X99 is coming in like two weeks... I think I'm almost ready to freeze my board and then retire it. I've pushed this board for nearly a year now, and it's taken it all in stride like a champ, and hasn't faltered at all, except for a bit of BIOS corruption that I probably caused myself.

So, this morning, I decide to push a bit again... and I ended up having to re-flash again. So here I am offering the advice yet again, that if your board isn't working as you'd expect FLASH DAT BIOS!!!


----------



## alancsalt

We all have seen, but that is probably a little risque for OCN no matter how well armed we may be, so now gone from view and let's direct thoughts to OC rather than OT...

humor deleted...


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You, sir, are a troll. ROFL.
> 
> See below.
> Basically.
> 
> but a little of this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that news has come out that X99 is coming in like two weeks... I think I'm almost ready to freeze my board and then retire it. I've pushed this board for nearly a year now, and it's taken it all in stride like a champ, and hasn't faltered at all, except for a bit of BIOS corruption that I probably caused myself.
> 
> So, this morning, I decide to push a bit again... and I ended up having to re-flash again. So here I am offering the advice yet again, that if your board isn't working as you'd expect FLASH DAT BIOS!!!


You and Alan definitely know how to ruin a guys day. Please don't get me wrong as I really do admire both of your intelligence and willingness to unselfishly help others. However, please keep your updates about the X99 platform to a minimum. After just spending a whole lot of money building my new X79 platform rig, I am crying that the new X99 and Broadmore [is that what Intel is calling their soon to be released chip?] is going to make my new money pit obsolete.









This is how I am feeling and it is all your fault:


----------



## chrisnyc75

Fear not, IB-e still has years of relevant life left in it. It will no longer be "top dog" in the processor category once the 8-core monster Haswell-e comes out, but it will still hold its own.

X79, on the other hand, is well past its prime already. Nonetheless, I can't imagine we'll see tech so advanced that it makes a X79 4930K system "obsolete" for at least another 4 or 5 years.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> We all have seen, but that is probably a little risque for OCN no matter how well armed we may be, so now gone from view and let's direct thoughts to OC rather than OT...
> 
> humor deleted...


Sorry boss. I think i give you more to do than anybody.


----------



## alancsalt

I think I'm innocent. (Did I say something about X99?)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> We all have seen, but that is probably a little risque for OCN no matter how well armed we may be, so now gone from view and let's direct thoughts to OC rather than OT...
> 
> humor deleted...


Roger Wilco









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> You and Alan definitely know how to ruin a guys day. Please don't get me wrong as I really do admire both of your intelligence and willingness to unselfishly help others. However, please keep your updates about the X99 platform to a minimum. After just spending a whole lot of money building my new X79 platform rig, I am crying that the new X99 and Broadmore [is that what Intel is calling their soon to be released chip?] is going to make my new money pit obsolete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how I am feeling and it is all your fault:


X99 will have Haswell-E. So take a Haswell CPU that's already out, and add more cores, more cache to feed those cores, and DDR4. I currently have Haswell as well as X79, and use X79 pretty much exclusively. There's nothing I have seen in the released board pictures that would make X79 really obsolete... it is mostly bringing DDR4 and the new M.2 and SATA Express drive support... and you cannot buy SATA Express drives yet.

It is also going to take ASUS quite some time before they will release anything even remotely close to the RIVBE, since the new memory interface needs to be tested and pushed, the new CPUs need to be tested and pushed, AND we all know they'll not rush it... that's just not what they do when it comes to this level of product. Anything that might even come CLOSE to making the RIVBE obsolete is years out yet. This board is just that good, so you can rest assured that your investment is a good one. I might retire my board from 24/7 use...but that means it's going onto my shelf of bench parts... I'll never ever let this board out of my possession... it's the best we got for DDR3 with a large core count.

Heck, there's not even good DDR4 yet. With X79 you get a tried and tested hardcore platform that can't be beat, with a wide availability of supporting parts.


----------



## Fidelitas

I bought stupid all away around. I would of been a whole lot farther ahead if I had come to this site and learned from you all before I built. I have a 4960x that does not justify the price over the 4930k. I have 64gb of memory when I all I need was 4 sticks of 4 to get my quad channel. I bought a stupid cpu cooler when I should of bought a really good Koolance. Now the technology is changing and I am really feeling like a big ol'.............


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Roger Wilco
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> X99 will have Haswell-E. So take a Haswell CPU that's already out, and add more cores, more cache to feed those cores, and DDR4. I currently have Haswell as well as X79, and use X79 pretty much exclusively. There's nothing I have seen in the released board pictures that would make X79 really obsolete... it is mostly bringing DDR4 and the new M.2 and SATA Express drive support... and you cannot buy SATA Express drives yet.
> 
> It is also going to take ASUS quite some time before they will release anything even remotely close to the RIVBE, since the new memory interface needs to be tested and pushed, the new CPUs need to be tested and pushed, AND we all know they'll not rush it... that's just not what they do when it comes to this level of product. Anything that might even come CLOSE to making the RIVBE obsolete is years out yet. This board is just that good, so you can rest assured that your investment is a good one. I might retire my board from 24/7 use...but that means it's going onto my shelf of bench parts... I'll never ever let this board out of my possession... it's the best we got for DDR3 with a large core count.
> 
> Heck, there's not even good DDR4 yet. With X79 you get a tried and tested hardcore platform that can't be beat, with a wide availability of supporting parts.


I do agree with you on the RIVBE. If nothing else, I have never seen a board with anything even remotely close to the quality of the onboard audio my RIVBE has. And I have a brand new one as a spare, that I will probably keep forever. As for processors, from what I am hearing from my friends up in the silicone valley, the new Broadmore chip will make everything else obsolete. From what I hear, liquid cooling will be a thing of the past very soon.

One good piece of advice to anyone considering buying a 4960x. I have two of them and I assure you that a 4930x is a better deal for the money and the performance differences between the two is not enough to even consider buying the 4960x for almost $500 more. Though I will tell you that my second 4960x is running stable on a 600 blck, that I have not been able to replicate yet with the first one or the 4930k.


----------



## wjturner78

does anyone know the difference between the oc station, oc panel and oc frontbase? is the oc station compatible with our motherboard?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I do agree with you on the RIVBE. If nothing else, I have never seen a board with anything even remotely close to the quality of the onboard audio my RIVBE has. And I have a brand new one as a spare, that I will probably keep forever. As for processors, from what I am hearing from my friends up in the silicone valley, the new Broadmore chip will make everything else obsolete. From what I hear, liquid cooling will be a thing of the past very soon.
> 
> One good piece of advice to anyone considering buying a 4960x. I have two of them and I assure you that a 4930x is a better deal for the money and the performance differences between the two is not enough to even consider buying the 4960x for almost $500 more. Though I will tell you that my second 4960x is running stable on a *600 blck*, that I have not been able to replicate yet with the first one or the 4930k.


typo I assume. Comparing the 4930K and 4960X I have, with say futuremark physics score... 4.8 on the 4960X = 4.9 on the 4930K. Luckily this 4930K will do 5.0.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> does anyone know the difference between the oc station, oc panel and oc frontbase? is the oc station compatible with our motherboard?


Front base ......
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390853317654?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> typo I assume. Comparing the 4930K and 4960X I have, with say futuremark physics score... 4.8 on the 4960X = 4.9 on the 4930K. Luckily this 4930K will do 5.0.


Yeah you are a lucky duck








Got my RIVE back with my 4102 bios and ALL of my GUN 5 gig + O/C settings !!!!!! I am HAPPY









P.S. I think he means 160blck ..... 600 BLCK id give my right nut for that !!!!!


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Front base ......
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390853317654?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> Yeah you are a lucky duck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my RIVE back with my 4102 bios and ALL of my GUN 5 gig + O/C settings !!!!!! I am HAPPY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. I think he means 160blck ..... 600 BLCK id give my right nut for that !!!!!


I am definitely full of the typos today. Yes, 160 is correct, the board is not even capable of selecting 600 for a blck...lol Sorry, my bad Home and Jpm.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I am definitely full of the typos today. Yes, 160 is correct, the board is not even capable of selecting 600 for a blck...lol Sorry, my bad Home and Jpm.


Meh. it's the >190 BCLK CPUs that are special.

Has anyone hit over 200 yet? I don't look at the 'bot.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FWIW, to any of our members in Canada or who don't mind the shipping from canada, Dazmode posted not long ago in his forums he's clearing out some old stock including ...
Quote:


> EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE - Acetal 1
> EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE 2
> EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE - Nickel 1


He's asking those interested to shoot him a pm with an offer, so I'm not sure what sort of discount might be involved, but if someone was considering putting their RIVBE underwater it just might be worthwhile to check it out. Just thought I'd mention it.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, to any of our members in Canada or who don't mind the shipping from canada, Dazmode posted not long ago in his forums he's clearing out some old stock including ...
> He's asking those interested to shoot him a pm with an offer, so I'm not sure what sort of discount might be involved, but if someone was considering putting their RIVBE underwater it just might be worthwhile to check it out. Just thought I'd mention it.


DUDE!!!

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I am definitely full of the typos today. Yes, 160 is correct, the board is not even capable of selecting 600 for a blck...lol Sorry, my bad Home and Jpm.


Don't sweat it man , its all good








Like I said ........









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Meh. it's the >190 BCLK CPUs that are special.
> 
> Has anyone hit over 200 yet? I don't look at the 'bot.


Nuh not that im aware of .......... but then again im not aware of too much in general .....









I gots one








http://hwbot.org/submission/2601556_homecinema_pc_reference_clock_rampage_iv_black_edition_193.15_mhz

and a good SB-E








http://hwbot.org/submission/2425215_homecinema_pc_reference_clock_2x_rampage_iv_formula_169.33_mhz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, to any of our members in Canada or who don't mind the shipping from canada, Dazmode posted not long ago in his forums he's clearing out some old stock including ...
> He's asking those interested to shoot him a pm with an offer, so I'm not sure what sort of discount might be involved, but if someone was considering putting their RIVBE underwater it just might be worthwhile to check it out. Just thought I'd mention it.


Love to but due to the unpredictable ( cept for coolant baths







) nature of 2011 ROG boards fitting it will void my chances of future RMA claims .








So I just fit tallish heatsinks on VRM backplate and chuck a 80mm fan front and back of VRM areas on mobo . Works good


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Don't sweat it man , its all good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said ........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nuh not that im aware of .......... but then again im not aware of too much in general .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gots one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://hwbot.org/submission/2601556_homecinema_pc_reference_clock_rampage_iv_black_edition_193.15_mhz
> 
> and a good SB-E
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://hwbot.org/submission/2425215_homecinema_pc_reference_clock_2x_rampage_iv_formula_169.33_mhz
> Love to but due to the unpredictable ( cept for coolant baths
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) nature of 2011 ROG boards fitting it will void my chances of future RMA claims .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just fit tallish heatsinks on VRM backplate and chuck a 80mm fan front and back of VRM areas on mobo . Works good


Hey, it is 160 I am at. I posted it earlier in this thread.

http://valid.canardpc.com/br86p6


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Nuh not that im aware of .......... but then again im not aware of too much in general .....


LoL. trolololol.

My top SB-E was given to me by Gigabyte, but they asked for it back. 1.42 for 5 GHz on H100, but poor BCLK and memory. I really wish I had that CPU back to push on this board, but that left my hands ..well, maybe over a year ago.

I've been asking specifically for 3 samples when it comes to CPUs, one fairly decent, but not the best since you guys on HWBOT get better use of them, one really poor, and one in the middle. That really helps me figure out how these platforms work, and what different scenarios "normal" users are going to run into. Intel has been pretty good at meeting those requests, but I'm still not sure that I got the right perspective on the big picture when it comes to OC to the extreme. Memory seems to play a HUGE role in clocking just in general now, and the RIVBE is no different...buy the wrong kit, and you're in for a nightmare.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Don't sweat it man , its all good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said ........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nuh not that im aware of .......... but then again im not aware of too much in general .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gots one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://hwbot.org/submission/2601556_homecinema_pc_reference_clock_rampage_iv_black_edition_193.15_mhz
> 
> and a good SB-E
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://hwbot.org/submission/2425215_homecinema_pc_reference_clock_2x_rampage_iv_formula_169.33_mhz
> Love to but due to the unpredictable ( cept for coolant baths
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) nature of 2011 ROG boards fitting it will void my chances of future RMA claims .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just fit tallish heatsinks on VRM backplate and chuck a 80mm fan front and back of VRM areas on mobo . Works good


Hey - I just noticed - you got the little bot !!!







:


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Hey, it is 160 I am at. I posted it earlier in this thread.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/br86p6












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> LoL. trolololol.
> 
> My top SB-E was given to me by Gigabyte, but they asked for it back. 1.42 for 5 GHz on H100, but poor BCLK and memory. I really wish I had that CPU back to push on this board, but that left my hands ..well, maybe over a year ago.
> 
> I've been asking specifically for 3 samples when it comes to CPUs, one fairly decent, but not the best since you guys on HWBOT get better use of them, one really poor, and one in the middle. That really helps me figure out how these platforms work, and what different scenarios "normal" users are going to run into. Intel has been pretty good at meeting those requests, but I'm still not sure that I got the right perspective on the big picture when it comes to OC to the extreme. Memory seems to play a HUGE role in clocking just in general now, and the RIVBE is no different...buy the wrong kit, and you're in for a nightmare.


Im gonna push me 3970x tonite before I go back to sideways ( IVB-E ) and yes wrong mem is a mega sukfest









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Hey - I just noticed - you got the little bot !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Quite the observant one aren't you







Had it for a week bro ........ took a year to get one ........
Ahhhh Mr Salt you've done it again









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Not vccsa and vtt?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You, sir, are a troll. ROFL.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> See below.
> Basically.
> 
> but a little of this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that news has come out that X99 is coming in like two weeks... I think I'm almost ready to freeze my board and then retire it. I've pushed this board for nearly a year now, and it's taken it all in stride like a champ, and hasn't faltered at all, except for a bit of BIOS corruption that I probably caused myself.
> 
> So, this morning, I decide to push a bit again... and I ended up having to re-flash again. So here I am offering the advice yet again, that if your board isn't working as you'd expect FLASH DAT BIOS!!!
Click to expand...

Im starting to lean that way as well .......
LoooooooL


----------



## Zimzoid

So glad i sold my Gigabyte X79 UD7 mobo and got the black..even though my first black died and took the 4930k with it, since the replacement mobo and cpu its been running sweet such fun to tweak...


----------



## Mappi75

How works the *Intel Xeon E5-2697 v2, 12x 2.70GHz* with the black?

Can the mobo run all cores @3,5 turbo (like the 4960x all cores @4Ghz)

Can i overclock the cpu?

Are there any restrictions instead using the 4960x ?

I'am think about to sell my 4960x and buy the xeon cpu because i need power for x264 encoding.
Instead of using the 4960x as a gaming rig ein want to use my 4790K with Maximus Extreme VI for gaming.

What Xeon would you recommend:

http://ark.intel.com/de/compare/75283,75279,76161,75273

What did you think is the best combination of speed & cores ?


----------



## masterm

Anybody used corsair CMD16GX3M4A2133C8 ( 4 x 4 GB) on this board?


----------



## Nichismo

I wanna shoot myself

somehow I managed to bend all the pins on my USB 3.0 header, and crack open part of the plastic surrounding housing for them.....

second motherboard this has happened to me on (except the first was/is trash compared to this absolute fanatic beauty of a board).

Now the innate thought of this minor imperfection is going to drive me CRAZY.....

*sigh*

/myself


----------



## masterm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I wanna shoot myself
> 
> somehow I managed to bend all the pins on my USB 3.0 header, and crack open part of the plastic surrounding housing for them.....
> 
> second motherboard this has happened to me on (except the first was/is trash compared to this absolute fanatic beauty of a board).
> 
> Now the innate thought of this minor imperfection is going to drive me CRAZY.....
> 
> *sigh*
> 
> /myself


I feel your pain. That sucks big time.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masterm*
> 
> I feel your pain. That sucks big time.


fortunately I was able to bend all the pins back to normal and after plugging in my front case's 3.0 ports, they are working still.

But im contemplating whether I should try super gluing the housing .... ill probably make a mess and be completely unsuccessful however, as the area is obviously tiny


----------



## Nichismo

will a BIOS update help with stability? I just realized im running version 0507, and ive been having ridiculous memory problems and a few other minor overall issues.


----------



## Fidelitas

I have found 7.01 to work the best for me, but some people claim that the original bios 4.01 is the best. I am curious on how to get it because I could not find that version on the Asus website.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im gonna push me 3970x tonite before I go back to sideways ( IVB-E ) and yes wrong mem is a mega sukfest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quite the observant one aren't you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had it for a week bro ........ took a year to get one ........
> Ahhhh Mr Salt you've done it again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im starting to lean that way as well .......
> LoooooooL


What is a troll?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> What is a troll?


If you need quick info, just google the key words of your question and you'll get the answer.

"Troll"


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> What is a troll?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> If you need quick info, just google the key words of your question and you'll get the answer.
> 
> "Troll"


I did a quick search for 'Troll' and I consistently got Alancsalt ..............


----------



## alancsalt

You must have mistyped it as "droll".....

In Internet slang, a troll (/ˈtroʊl/, /ˈtrɒl/) is a person who sows discord on the Internet by starting arguments or upsetting people, by posting inflammatory, extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community (such as a newsgroup, forum, chat room, or blog) with the deliberate intent of provoking readers into an emotional response or of otherwise disrupting normal on-topic discussion.

See the Flame Warriors list for different species: http://www.flamewarriorsguide.com/

In Old Norse sources, trolls are said to dwell in isolated mountains, rocks, and caves, sometimes live together (usually as father-and-daughter or mother-and-son), and are rarely described as helpful or friendly.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> You must have mistyped it as "droll".....
> 
> In Internet slang, a troll (/ˈtroʊl/, /ˈtrɒl/) is a person who sows discord on the Internet by starting arguments or upsetting people, by posting inflammatory, extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community (such as a newsgroup, forum, chat room, or blog) with the deliberate intent of provoking readers into an emotional response or of otherwise disrupting normal on-topic discussion.
> 
> See the Flame Warriors list for different species: http://www.flamewarriorsguide.com/
> 
> *In Old Norse sources, trolls are said to dwell in isolated mountains, rocks, and caves, sometimes live together (usually as father-and-daughter or mother-and-son), and are rarely described as helpful or friendly.*


You are consistent that's fer sure LoooooL









Hang on a sec ........... hey is that a reference to me







LoooooL









Ohh yeah some pics .........


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> You are consistent that's fer sure LoooooL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hang on a sec ........... hey is that a reference to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LoooooL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yeah some pics .........


Nice pics. And yeah, I was referring to you, myself. ROFL. Anywya, love the quick-disconnects.

Care to share your Dom Plat timings @ 2800 MHz for this board?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Nice pics. And yeah, I was referring to you, myself. ROFL. Anywya, love the quick-disconnects.
> 
> Care to share your Dom Plat timings @ 2800 MHz for this board?


Thanks man








I haven't run this silicon @2800 yet but are you referring to the preset ones in the bios ?
Im about to do some screeners for the peeps that wanted 4.5G I should be able to grab those as well

Check out the temp spread with the chiller set at 14c


----------



## Fidelitas

that is beautiful


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't run this silicon @2800 yet but are you referring to the preset ones in the bios ?
> Im about to do some screeners for the peeps that wanted 4.5G I should be able to grab those as well


Nah, I had both ES and retail boards. I gave the retail boards to a bench teams, kept the ES. I want to know what ya use to get stable. From what you have posted so far, our CPUs are pretty darn close. I run 2666 C10 with the default XMP timings 24/7, typing with that now. The board's auto timings suck, IMHO, and I'm running to 0208 BIOS for a reason.









I mean ,if you're gonna push 2.1 V through the sticks..well.. the profiles work fine. I'm more interested in what people can come with using 1.65v-1.75V.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> that is beautiful


Thanks man








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Nah, I had both ES and retail boards. I gave the retail boards to a bench teams, kept the ES. I want to know what ya use to get stable. From what you have posted so far, our CPUs are pretty darn close. I run 2666 C10 with the default XMP timings 24/7, typing with that now. The board's auto timings suck, IMHO, and I'm running to 0208 BIOS for a reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean ,if you're gonna push 2.1 V through the sticks..well.. the profiles work fine. I'm more interested in what people can come with using 1.65v-1.75V.


I will get on to that in the next 10mins or so hang on....
BTW you've got one of those boards with the funny heatsinks on em eh ??


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will get on to that in the next 10mins or so hang on....
> BTW you've got one of those boards with the funny heatsinks on em eh ??


Nah. There were like 5 versions or so, those are the first, or boards given to the guys that do BIOS development and testing. I am just a reviewer high on the sample list.(or I used to be).

For example:



My board came in a box with the ROG logo in metallic silver and no game key, while retail boards have a "simulated" metal logo in blue/white/grey, and had game keys.

I mean, I do work for a fairly big site, but I'm just a dude typing out reviews from his livingroom, or in other words, nobody special at all. ROFL.

I should have had my review live for the launch, but you know.. I like to actually use and test the hardware I review before I give an opinion on it, not spend a few days and then publish. I had my board about....oh, 5-6 weeks before they launched. Many of my ASUS sample boards come with no serial number, etc, always get mine prior to the launch. It's just that I'm not one of the guys that runs into problems and then contacts reps for help... I figure it out for myself.







(which is why my ideas and approach are seldom like other reviewers).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> From what I hear, liquid cooling will be a thing of the past very soon.


i do not think this will ever happen


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i do not think this will ever happen


HE was talking about Broadwell, anyway, which is still a LONG way out here yet, X99 launches with Haswell-E.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Nah. There were like 5 versions or so, those are the first, or boards given to the guys that do BIOS development and testing. I am just a reviewer high on the sample list.(or I used to be).
> 
> For example:
> 
> 
> 
> My board came in a box with the ROG logo in metallic silver and no game key, while retail boards have a "simulated" metal logo in blue/white/grey, and had game keys.
> 
> I mean, I do work for a fairly big site, but I'm just a dude typing out reviews from his livingroom, or in other words, nobody special at all. ROFL.
> 
> I should have had my review live for the launch, but you know.. I like to actually use and test the hardware I review before I give an opinion on it, not spend a few days and then publish. I had my board about....oh, 5-6 weeks before they launched. Many of my ASUS sample boards come with no serial number, etc, always get mine prior to the launch. It's just that I'm not one of the guys that runs into problems and then contacts reps for help... I figure it out for myself.


Interesting how much variation there is eh ......... I would love to do what you do , but im pretty crap at explaining things ....... if I cant sort it I just unplug it and move on to the next platform LoooooL


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Interesting how much variation there is eh ......... I would love to do what you do , but im pretty crap at explaining things ....... if I cant sort it I just unplug it and move on to the next platform LoooooL


Heh. I just like playing with the settings... it's a challenge that I cannot ignore. Like when benchers were saying single-sided MFR sticks suck... I love 'em. But you couldn't just enable XMP or load a profile back then... you had to tweak a LOT, and then they still aren't as efficient as PSC or Sammy's...(of course, since the page size is larger, how could they be?), but they still let you push memory controllers higher than anything else while offering that with low voltages, making CPU binning easier.

Like Z97 ROG boards... got 'em, still playing, won't publish reviews probably until after X99 launch. I'm still playing with this RIVBE, anyway. And when the prices on the chips drop, and guys are offloading CPUs for cheap, I'll publish my OC guide for this platform...after spending a year with the boards and CPUs.









But you know, it's always fun to get stuff like this:



ROFL.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i do not think this will ever happen
> 
> 
> 
> HE was talking about Broadwell, anyway, which is still a LONG way out here yet, X99 launches with Haswell-E.
Click to expand...

my statement will stand then

the silence alone

not even going into ascetics


----------



## Gobigorgohome

What the heck? I have better FPS in games with stock CPU and stock GPU's than with 4,5 Ghz and 1100/1300 on the GPU's .... my 3930K at 4,6 Ghz was unplayable, 4,5 Ghz went OKAY but I still had alot of troubles with flickering screen and blacking outs, also the CPU was ticking like crazy at 1,4 volts. Now at 3,8 Ghz it is not flickering and no blacking outs, and I generelly have better FPS in games (all over the board).


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> What the heck? I have better FPS in games with stock CPU and stock GPU's than with 4,5 Ghz and 1100/1300 on the GPU's .... my 3930K at 4,6 Ghz was unplayable, 4,5 Ghz went OKAY but I still had alot of troubles with flickering screen and blacking outs, also the CPU was ticking like crazy at 1,4 volts. Now at 3,8 Ghz it is not flickering and no blacking outs, and I generelly have better FPS in games (all over the board).


How do you have those two PSUs hooked in to your mobo? Only one powering the board right? (ie, one does the MB/CPU the other the GPUs?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> How do you have those two PSUs hooked in to your mobo? Only one powering the board right? (ie, one does the MB/CPU the other the GPUs?


At first I had MB/CPU/HDD/FANS and PUMPS on one and GPU's on the second, but tsm106 pointed out that I was choking my GPU's, so I switched two of the cards over to the MB-PSU. So it should be good the way it is hooked up. BF4 and Metro Last Light is both running fine on stock so it has something to do with the clocks and/or voltage.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> At first I had MB/CPU/HDD/FANS and PUMPS on one and GPU's on the second, but tsm106 pointed out that I was choking my GPU's, so I switched two of the cards over to the MB-PSU. So it should be good the way it is hooked up. BF4 and Metro Last Light is both running fine on stock so it has something to do with the clocks and/or voltage.


okay, if you share mobo power between the two PSUs it causes problems. we really need to look at that cpu OC...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

[email protected]@1.312v Loaded P95 Blend 20 min


[email protected] Offset volts















http:/ [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2138088/width/500/height/1000%5B/IMG]www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2138088/width/500/height/1000[/IMG[/URL]]
[URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2138089/][IMG alt=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2138089/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL[/URL]


----------



## Jpmboy

maybe a dozen questions... but why cpu frequency of 800 for 4.5GHz?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> [email protected]@1.312v Loaded P95 Blend 20 min
> 
> 
> [email protected] Offset volts


Those Dom Plats should do 2133 @ 1.5v 9-11-10-27-7-171-8-40-8-6-8.







Might be a bit better than the 1866.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> maybe a dozen questions... but why cpu frequency of 800 for 4.5GHz?


That shouldn't be @ 800 about 500 or so








Yeah all input is greatly apperiacated









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Those Dom Plats should do 2133 @ 1.5v 9-11-10-27-7-171-8-40-8-6-8.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might be a bit better than the 1866.


Yeah I will plug em in and see thanks








Now I spent over 8 hrs trying to do 2800 .








I realize that I am a novice when it comes to dram . Best I could get so far is [email protected] 11-13-13-1t-13-175 . That's what I like about this board so MANY options for ram settings . I get similar mem tweek scores with C9 2400


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> At first I had MB/CPU/HDD/FANS and PUMPS on one and GPU's on the second, but tsm106 pointed out that I was choking my GPU's, so I switched two of the cards over to the MB-PSU. So it should be good the way it is hooked up. BF4 and Metro Last Light is both running fine on stock so it has something to do with the clocks and/or voltage.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> How do you have those two PSUs hooked in to your mobo? Only one powering the board right? (ie, one does the MB/CPU the other the GPUs?
Click to expand...

I hope he's using the dual PSU cable


----------



## cadaveca

My "thing" has always been playing with ram.. and yeah, because there's all of these options. I keep kits of all the popular ICs (and since I do memory reviews as well I do get some high-end kits), and that's the one thing out of all the gear I've got for free I never let go of.. the DRAM. I'm pretty interesting in X99... because it's new ram to play with.

Pushing over 2700 is hard with Samsung with "sane" voltages.. really good kits will do 2800 w/ 1.7-1.75v, using 10-12-12-31. My own set of the 2666 C10 will do 2750 @ 10-12-12-31, @ 1.695.

Where the "tricks" are in in the tertiary timings... that's where the real bandwidth is available. MFR's can get close to samsungs, but you need to tweak the tertiary timings... which those guys that were complaining about MFR-based sticks don't seem to do, so they didn't see how good they could be. PSC is as fast..the fastest, because the IC density is the smallest, Samsung in the middle, and MFR the slower, but good MFR's will do 3500-3600 MHz.

Anyway, fi you want to push those Samsung's higher, use the provide profiles with the 0208 BIOS, and shove the voltage through them. Up to 1.9V on ANYY IC is safe...that's part of JEDEC design... the sticks don't have to work right, but they do have to survive that voltage. Samsung's can handle up to 2.0-2.1 pretty reliably for benchmarks, and this is what makes them and those 2666 C10 kits so special.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> My "thing" has always been playing with ram.. and yeah, because there's all of these options. I keep kits of all the popular ICs (and since I do memory reviews as well I do get some high-end kits), and that's the one thing out of all the gear I've got for free I never let go of.. the DRAM. I'm pretty interesting in X99... because it's new ram to play with.
> 
> *Pushing over 2700 is hard with Samsung with "sane" voltages.. really good kits will do 2800 w/ 1.7-1.75v, using 10-12-12-31. My own set of the 2666 C10 will do 2750 @ 10-12-12-31, @ 1.695.*
> 
> Where the "tricks" are in in the tertiary timings... that's where the real bandwidth is available. MFR's can get close to samsungs, but you need to tweak the tertiary timings... which those guys that were complaining about MFR-based sticks don't seem to do, so they didn't see how good they could be. PSC is as fast..the fastest, because the IC density is the smallest, Samsung in the middle, and MFR the slower, but good MFR's will do 3500-3600 MHz.
> 
> *Anyway, fi you want to push those Samsung's higher, use the provide profiles with the 0208 BIOS, and shove the voltage through them. Up to 1.9V on ANYY IC is safe...that's part of JEDEC design*... the sticks don't have to work right, but they do have to survive that voltage. *Samsung's can handle up to 2.0-2.1 pretty reliably for benchmarks*, and this is what makes them and those 2666 C10 kits so special.


Thanks for those info, I always was afraid to raise the Dram voltage on my TridentX. I'm able to bench at [email protected] w/ 1.65v on my 2600C10 TridentX and always wanted to try 9-12-12 like I usually see in those 3D world record with x79 CPUs.
I'll see if I can get that C9 to work with some volts soon!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Thanks for those info, I always was afraid to raise the Dram voltage on my TridentX. I'm able to bench at [email protected] w/ 1.65v on my 2600C10 TridentX and always wanted to try 9-12-12 like I usually see in those 3D world record with x79 CPUs.
> I'll see if I can get that C9 to work with some volts soon!


Keep in mind that when the idea of memory profiles were brought to ROG boards, we had Shamino at the helm. he did have high-bin memory, and the profiles in BIOS are based on having similar quality of memory as well. 2600 C10 isn't 2666 C10 stuff, but you should be able to use the same profiles and be just under the max shown by the "big guys".

Also, if you are into tweaking memory hard, pay close attention to centvalny and the screenshots he posts...he's the real guru.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

LoooooL spoke too soon

http://valid.canardpc.com/f5ba7i









Decided to do a twin chilled loop


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I hope he's using the dual PSU cable


I am using dual psu cable, yes. The psu that are supposed to run the Mb is plugged into the "many color wire contact", while the gpu psu are plugged into the "green and black" connector which i thought was the "slave". Am i wrong? "Add2psu" at legitreview.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Weird problem -- I re-flashed my bios this weekend (to the same version, 0701) on the off chance that it was the root cause of some random problems I've been having recently, but before doing so I copied all of my oc profiles to a usb drive. The re-flash went fine, but when I try to load any of the oc profiles from the usb drive the entire system freezes as soon as I select the profile to load (from usb). Any clue what might cause this? Sadly, I didn't take screenshots of my settings before the flash, and I'm not real anxious to spend hours trying to recall the stable settings I was using.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> You must have mistyped it as "droll".....
> 
> In Internet slang, a troll (/ˈtroʊl/, /ˈtrɒl/) is a person who sows discord on the Internet by starting arguments or upsetting people, by posting inflammatory, extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community (such as a newsgroup, forum, chat room, or blog) with the deliberate intent of provoking readers into an emotional response or of otherwise disrupting normal on-topic discussion.


I thought on topic discussion doesn't exist after page 50. In HW related thread a news or other stuff can cause discussion to drift back to related topic, but that's rather exception when comparised to other types of discussions.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Weird problem -- I re-flashed my bios this weekend (to the same version, 0701) on the off chance that it was the root cause of some random problems I've been having recently, but before doing so I copied all of my oc profiles to a usb drive. The re-flash went fine, but when I try to load any of the oc profiles from the usb drive the entire system freezes as soon as I select the profile to load (from usb). Any clue what might cause this? Sadly, I didn't take screenshots of my settings before the flash, and I'm not real anxious to spend hours trying to recall the stable settings I was using.


Probably was bit of corruption in your BIOS, and this prevents the profiles from working correctly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Thanks for those info, I always was afraid to raise the Dram voltage on my TridentX. I'm able to bench at [email protected] w/ 1.65v on my 2600C10 TridentX and always wanted to try 9-12-12 like I usually see in those 3D world record with x79 CPUs.
> I'll see if I can get that C9 to work with some volts soon!


The key to clocking memory up when pushing voltages is to increase voltage slowly, ensuring that the voltage additions increase scaling. Not all IC's will be robust enough to handle the maximum votlages, so you need to take the time to ensure that those increases have a tangible benefit.


----------



## Raghar

What do you know about these warnings in manual about "Intel recommendation suggest 1.65 V max to avoid CPU damage"?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> What do you know about these warnings in manual about "Intel recommendation suggest 1.65 V max to avoid CPU damage"?


You do know this is Overclock.net - right? what manual?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> What do you know about these warnings in manual about "Intel recommendation suggest 1.65 V max to avoid CPU damage"?


All voltages within the CPU interact with each other in specific ways, CPU to cache, cache to VCCSA, VCCSA to PCIe and vttDDR, vttDDR to vDRAM. At each point, voltages are reduced or increased as they transition to the next "domain", with specific ratios for those increases. Deviating outside those ratios does increase the chance of silicon failure, as they were designed with those limits in place. So, what that little quip in the manual says, basically, is that up to 1.65V is OK, but more, Intel cannot verify with all chips, so you take a risk as you deviate from these values that Intel recommends, but you will also find that variations of up to 10% or more are built in, as this makes the "binning" process easier, and allows them to retain profit margins within acceptable values.

Personally, I pour over the Intel whitepapers and note all the maximum and minimum voltage values given for specific domains, and use that data to come up with I perceive as acceptable values to use, but as with anything, problems can occur at any point, even when running stock. Today, with Intel supporting OC with things like the Intel Tuning Plan, it's clear that guys like us that push our systems a bit harder are considered when they design things, and as such, there's ways to ensure your monetary investment is safe when pushing the limits, although for some this might mean some system downtime.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> All voltages within the CPU interact with each other in specific ways, CPU to cache, cache to VCCSA, VCCSA to PCIe and vttDDR, vttDDR to vDRAM. At each point, voltages are reduced or increased as they transition to the next "domain", with specific ratios for those increases. Deviating outside those ratios does increase the chance of silicon failure, as they were designed with those limits in place. So, what that little quip in the manual says, basically, is that up to 1.65V is OK, but more, Intel cannot verify with all chips, so you take a risk as you deviate from these values that Intel recommends, but you will also find that variations of up to 10% or more are built in, as this makes the "binning" process easier, and allows them to retain profit margins within acceptable values.
> 
> Personally, I pour over the Intel whitepapers and note all the maximum and minimum voltage values given for specific domains, and use that data to come up with I perceive as acceptable values to use, but as with anything, problems can occur at any point, even when running stock. Today, with Intel supporting OC with things like the Intel Tuning Plan, it's clear that guys like us that push our systems a bit harder are considered when they design things, and as such, there's ways to ensure your monetary investment is safe when pushing the limits, although for some this might mean some system downtime.


From what I have been told by engineers at Intel, the factor on their USL and LSL for voltage and temperature specifications are + or - 4% and silicon degradation is computed by 12 months.

Though I am not positive of exactly what is costs Intel to make a chip, it would not surprise me if the cost of the warranty covers the cost of the chip and their mentality is that giving you one at cost in case you destroy one OC'ing the Hades out of it, is just good business tactic to keep you coming back to Intel.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> From what I have been told by engineers at Intel, the factor on their USL and LSL for voltage and temperature specifications are + or - 4% and silicon degradation is computed by 12 months.
> 
> Though I am not positive of exactly what is costs Intel to make a chip, it would not surprise me if the cost of the warranty covers the cost of the chip and their mentality is that giving you one at cost in case you destroy one OC'ing the Hades out of it, is just good business tactic to keep you coming back to Intel.


Yeah, that's very basic basic marketing - it's easier to retain customers than get new ones.

As to voltages, anyone can find Intel Engineers on YouTube stating +10%. I can't comment on anything other than what's publically available info, and will never stray from that, since it is easily verifiable, and should I contradict that, it's going to cause me issues.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, that's very basic basic marketing - it's easier to retain customers than get new ones.
> 
> As to voltages, anyone can find Intel Engineers on YouTube stating +10%. I can't comment on anything other than what's publically available info, and will never stray from that, since it is easily verifiable, and should I contradict that, it's going to cause me issues.


As you know I have great respect for your prodigious technical knowledge. I was not trying to contradict you if it came out that way to you or anyone else Sir. I was just trying to state that there is a lot of conflicting information out there and basically, who really knows what Intel is up to?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> As you know I have great respect for your prodigious technical knowledge. I was not trying to contradict you if it came out that way to you or anyone else Sir. I was just trying to state that there is a lot of conflicting information out there and basically, who really knows what Intel is up to?


Meh, they are up to making money, by selling silicon. I mean, I agree with your post 100%, I was merely pointing out that whatever information is given, there will always been conflicting info, and being a reviewer, I have to go by certain sources, and those sources have to be verifiable or they aren't credible. Kind of the way "journalism" has to be.

At the same time, when pushing the limits for OC, like with the RIVBE, threads like this one often offer a lot of info based on user experience that contradicts those same "official" sources, but at the same time, "guerrilla marketing" still happens too, so what do ya do? I mean, a lot of stuff I post contradicts, or is different, than what other sites post. Who's right?

Very plainly, I don't do reviews for money. It doesn't pay my bills. I also don't sell my samples, either, even "for charity"... I give them away, straight up, or keep them. My conscience won't allow otherwise. I'm in this, 100%, because it's what I love to do, and I very purposely make it that way. Intel wants your money...I want us all to share info and have good time playing with the hardware we got. That's why I use the same UID everywhere, and am pretty open about who I am and what I do. It's not about "bragging" or any of that nonsense.

Anyway today I found that AI Suite is over-riding my BIOS settings for fan control, and it's quite annoying. It's been hot here locally, 30c+, and I don't have any air conditioning, nor do I have any "advanced" cooling, so I cranked up the system fans in AI Suite. I then also changed the settings in BIOS...reboot, and they are back to running slow. How annoying.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Meh, they are up to making money, by selling silicon. I mean, I agree with your post 100%, I was merely pointing out that whatever information is given, there will always been conflicting info, and being a reviewer, I have to go by certain sources, and those sources have to be verifiable or they aren't credible. Kind of the way "journalism" has to be.
> 
> At the same time, when pushing the limits for OC, like with the RIVBE, threads like this one often offer a lot of info based on user experience that contradicts those same "official" sources, but at the same time, "guerrilla marketing" still happens too, so what do ya do? I mean, a lot of stuff I post contradicts, or is different, than what other sites post. Who's right?
> 
> Very plainly, I don't do reviews for money. It doesn't pay my bills. I also don't sell my samples, either, even "for charity"... I give them away, straight up, or keep them. My conscience won't allow otherwise. I'm in this, 100%, because it's what I love to do, and I very purposely make it that way. Intel wants your money...I want us all to share info and have good time playing with the hardware we got. That's why I use the same UID everywhere, and am pretty open about who I am and what I do. It's not about "bragging" or any of that nonsense.
> 
> Anyway today I found that AI Suite is over-riding my BIOS settings for fan control, and it's quite annoying. It's been hot here locally, 30c+, and I don't have any air conditioning, nor do I have any "advanced" cooling, so I cranked up the system fans in AI Suite. I then also changed the settings in BIOS...reboot, and they are back to running slow. How annoying.


The whole fan control set up for the RIVBE and AISuite 3 are aggravating to me. I have one fan, actually a pump for my H105 that needs to run full speed at all times. I have tried it on almost every fan header I have on the board and can't get it past 90%, yet I can go in to AISuite and set it to full speed. Go figure.

Another thing that really gets to me is that for the life of me I can't figure out how to have the system run my components, such as my cpu and ram, at stock settings. When I have used four way optimization and or I just simply use the F5 key to load optimized defaults, the settings the board uses are ludicrous.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> The whole fan control set up for the RIVBE and AISuite 3 are aggravating to me. I have one fan, actually a pump for my H105 that needs to run full speed at all times. I have tried it on almost every fan header I have on the board and can't get it past 90%, yet I can go in to AISuite and set it to full speed. Go figure.
> 
> Another thing that really gets to me is that for the life of me I can't figure out how to have the system run my components, such as my cpu and ram, at stock settings. When I have used four way optimization and or I just simply use the F5 key to load optimized defaults, the settings the board uses are ludicrous.


ROG boards aren't meant to run stock. You need to set that up manually, or buy ASUS' mainstream products. That's part of what the ROG branding offers is that easy performance boost, right out of the box, so that's perfectly fine with me, especially since this is the ultimate X79 ROG board.

AS to fan control, it's possible new BIOS combined with latest AI Suite fixes problems. But that doesn't work well with my 2666 C10 memories, so it is what it is...just annoying. ROFL.


----------



## JLMS2010

Do you all have any suggested settings for overclocking my ram? I have the dominator platinum 2133 1.5v CL9. These.


----------



## Shadowarez

I would load xmp you'd get your settings there. Then can tweak em once your ready to switch over to Manuel Oc. I tuned my settings thanks to guy's in the ivy-e owner's thread.


----------



## JLMS2010

Ok yeah I loaded XMP, got my timing for 2133 then switched back to manual. I just wasn't sure if somebody had some loose timings for say 2666. I'm sure I'll need 1.6-1.65v


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah my 2400Mhz Dominator's take 1.65 as well. As for 2666 pretty sure limitations set in depending on your CPU's IMC.

I have the 4960x and I'm lucky to have gotten 2400mhz Stable soon as I can I'll post my memory timings there tuned a lil bit. But honestly I don't think changing much else in there will net much performance lol it's already smoking fast.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Ok yeah I loaded XMP, got my timing for 2133 then switched back to manual. I just wasn't sure if somebody had some loose timings for say 2666. I'm sure I'll need 1.6-1.65v


mode3-10-12-12-31-2t-nearer-7-214-10400-20-10-50-10-7-9 and with up to 1.7 possibly needed, but I'd start with 1.65V.

run 2133 MHz memory divider with 125 BCLK, adjust CPU multi to match what you already have stable. Maybe require slight VCCSA and VTT increase with a poopy CPU.










I repost this screenshot for tertiary timings.



test with Memtestx86+ outside windows, at least 2 full passes, if it passes, then boot into windows, try SuperPI 32M, check bandwidth using AIDA64 to match what I posted above, then try things like Cinebench and Prime95 with high memory allocation.

If not stable, try increase primary timings to 11-13-13-35, all other timings the same.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> mode3-10-12-12-31-2t-nearer-7-214-10400-20-10-50-10-7-9 and with up to 1.7 possibly needed.
> 
> run 2133 MHz multi with 125 BCLK, adjust CPU multi to match what you already have stable. Maybe require slight VCCSA and VTT increase with a poopy CPU.


Thank you! Exactly what I was looking for. Could you post some for 2400 as well?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Thank you! Exactly what I was looking for. Could you post some for 2400 as well?


Nope, 2400 is a waste of time to tweak for, since many CPUs can not do well (is highest CPU multi that is bootable, very rarely does this multi work easily, no matter what Intel platform. for Socket 1150, that's the 2933 divider)

But try mode3-9-11-11-31-2t-nearer-7-183-9360-18-9-45-9-6-8.

ROFL.

Yeah, I like to clock memory. Pulled that out of my butt, might not be perfect as I didn't keep written record for that speed, and am already working on next-gen 3000 MHz, so no time to test now.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Nope, 2400 is a waste of time to tweak for, since many CPUs can not do well (is highest CPU multi that is bootable, very rarely does this multi work easily, no matter what Intel platform. for Socket 1150, that's the 2933 divider)
> 
> But try mode3-9-11-11-31-2t-nearer-7-183-9360-18-9-45-9-6-8.
> 
> ROFL.
> 
> Yeah, I like to clock memory. Pulled that out of my butt, might not be perfect as I didn't keep written record for that speed, and am already working on next-gen 3000 MHz, so no time to test now.


Lol. Ok I'll work on 2666 then.







Thank you!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Lol. Ok I'll work on 2666 then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!


No problem! If ya have any issues, post about it, maybe we can get ya stable.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Meh, they are up to making money, by selling silicon. I mean, I agree with your post 100%, I was merely pointing out that whatever information is given, there will always been conflicting info, and being a reviewer, I have to go by certain sources, and those sources have to be verifiable or they aren't credible. Kind of the way "journalism" has to be.
> 
> At the same time, when pushing the limits for OC, like with the RIVBE, threads like this one often offer a lot of info based on user experience that contradicts those same "official" sources, but at the same time, "guerrilla marketing" still happens too, so what do ya do? I mean, a lot of stuff I post contradicts, or is different, than what other sites post. Who's right?
> 
> Very plainly, I don't do reviews for money. It doesn't pay my bills. I also don't sell my samples, either, even "for charity"... I give them away, straight up, or keep them. My conscience won't allow otherwise. I'm in this, 100%, because it's what I love to do, and I very purposely make it that way. Intel wants your money...I *want us all to share info and have good time playing with the hardware we got. That's why I use the same UID everywhere*, and am pretty open about who I am and what I do. It's not about "bragging" or any of that nonsense.
> 
> Anyway today I found that AI Suite is over-riding my BIOS settings for fan control, and it's quite annoying. It's been hot here locally, 30c+, and I don't have any air conditioning, nor do I have any "advanced" cooling, so I cranked up the system fans in AI Suite. I then also changed the settings in BIOS...reboot, and they are back to running slow. How annoying.


Great post, well said. +1 Although "truth-in-journalism" is fading fast.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> No problem! If ya have any issues, post about it, maybe we can get ya stable.


Sounds good. Will do.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Great post, well said. +1 Although "truth-in-journalism" is fading fast.


JPM, is there any spec for how close in volts you should be with your vid and core voltage. Please take a look at this screen shot:



I have my core set at 1.225 but for some reason it kicks down to 1.20 when I go in to prime at full load. Should I lower it my bios to 1.2 or lower? What do you think?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

IMC is good on my chip, 1v for both VCCSA and VTT:



dram voltage, 1.675v.

Can't break 2600MHz though, but stable @2400Mhz no sweat.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> IMC is good on my chip, 1v for both VCCSA and VTT:
> 
> 
> 
> dram voltage, 1.675v.
> 
> Can't break 2600MHz though, but stable @2400Mhz no sweat.


What kind of RAM are you using and how much?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> JPM, is there any spec for how close in volts you should be with your vid and core voltage. Please take a look at this screen shot:
> 
> 
> 
> I have my core set at 1.225 but for some reason it kicks down to 1.20 when I go in to prime at full load. Should I lower it my bios to 1.2 or lower? What do you think?


That voltage drop is vdroop. You can add *adj* this with LLC. But if it's stable keep the vdroop. Are you using high or medium LLC?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> That voltage drop is vdroop. You can add this with LLC. But if it's stable keep the vdroop. Are you using high or medium LLC?


medium


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> mode3-10-12-12-31-2t-nearer-7-214-10400-20-10-50-10-7-9 and with up to 1.7 possibly needed, but I'd start with 1.65V.
> 
> run 2133 MHz memory divider with 125 BCLK, adjust CPU multi to match what you already have stable. Maybe require slight VCCSA and VTT increase with a poopy CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I repost this screenshot for tertiary timings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> test with Memtestx86+ outside windows, at least 2 full passes, if it passes, then boot into windows, try SuperPI 32M, check bandwidth using AIDA64 to match what I posted above, then try things like Cinebench and Prime95 with high memory allocation.
> 
> If not stable, try increase primary timings to 11-13-13-35, all other timings the same.


Loaded optimized defaults.
Changed strap to 125MHz
sync all cores at 35x
set dram voltage to 1.65v
set to 2666MHz
vcore was 1.36.
Bootup no problem and loaded windows. I ran a quick cinebench test.

How accurate is that mem tweakit score? These are the scores I got. I have NOT done anything with the timings on the 2133. They are the XMP settings.
2133MHz CL9 1.5v --> 40759
2666MHz CL10 1.65v --> 41374


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> That voltage drop is vdroop. You can add this with LLC. But if it's stable keep the vdroop. Are you using high or medium LLC?


I was able to get stable for an hour (don't know past that) at 1.15 vcore, but under prime it was bouncing under full load from 2.20 to 1.84 Same at 1.20 At 1.25 it stays at 1.20 at full load under prime. I also have dropped the VIT to 1.0599 and the second vit to 1.01 I additionally dropped the vccsa to 1.1 and it seems to be running a little cooler. Under 60c. What do you think? Did I drop the VIT's too low?



If your wondering what I am up to, I am trying to find a real nice sweet spot for 24/7 I really like the higher blck because it runs cooler with less Vcore, plus my 3dmark score (firestrike) under these settings shot up to 22379 with a physics score of 17493.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> That voltage drop is vdroop. You can add this with LLC. But if it's stable keep the vdroop. Are you using high or medium LLC?


JMP, have you ever seen this main thread message (unknown Intel) on Prime before? Should I be concerned?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> IMC is good on my chip, 1v for both VCCSA and VTT:
> 
> 
> 
> dram voltage, 1.675v.
> 
> Can't break 2600MHz though, but stable @2400Mhz no sweat.


You are using screwed up timings. Going with more standardized things might let you go higher. The timings in the profiles are more for ensuring support for using much higher memory voltages. You have pretty decent bandwidth though. You'll have to push 1.85-1.9V or higher to push over 2600 with the profiles.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Loaded optimized defaults.
> Changed strap to 125MHz
> sync all cores at 35x
> set dram voltage to 1.65v
> set to 2666MHz
> vcore was 1.36.
> Bootup no problem and loaded windows. I ran a quick cinebench test.
> 
> How accurate is that mem tweakit score? These are the scores I got. I have NOT done anything with the timings on the 2133. They are the XMP settings.
> 2133MHz CL9 1.5v --> 40759
> 2666MHz CL10 1.65v --> 41374


MemTweakIt is basically useless except to show timings.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> MemTweakIt is basically useless except to show timings.


Ah ok. I'll use AIDA64 later. Thanks!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> JMP, have you ever seen this main thread message (unknown Intel) on Prime before? Should I be concerned?


Yeah, you should be concerned. You P95 install/folder is corrupted from a crash. Re-download the app.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> medium


That's a good thing. keep it at medium if you can.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I was able to get stable for an hour (don't know past that) at 1.15 vcore, but under prime it was bouncing under full load from 2.20 to 1.84 Same at 1.20 At 1.25 it stays at 1.20 at full load under prime. I also have dropped the VIT to 1.0599 and the second vit to 1.01 I additionally dropped the vccsa to 1.1 and it seems to be running a little cooler. Under 60c. What do you think? Did I drop the VIT's too low?
> 
> 
> 
> If your wondering what I am up to, I am trying to find a real nice sweet spot for 24/7 I really like the higher blck because it runs cooler with less Vcore, plus my 3dmark score (firestrike) under these settings shot up to 22379 with a physics score of 17493.











Advice from Asus is to leave the 2nd VTT on auto. Remember, you are changing the CPU "gear ratio" at 125, uncoupled from the other bus paths.. increasing with bclk from there changes the other clock frequencies correspondingly (eg, PCIE). at some point phase lock and skew will probably need tweaking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> JMP, have you ever seen this main thread message (unknown Intel) on Prime before? Should I be concerned?


no... not that I recall.
Uh... delete then reinstall p95.
after that - load a stable setting and open an elevated command prompt: check to see that the core kernel of windows is not corrupted. "sfc /scannow". should report "no integrity violations".

[ah - I see cadaveca already advised the same]


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You are using screwed up timings. Going with more standardized things might let you go higher. The timings in the profiles are more for ensuring support for using much higher memory voltages. You have pretty decent bandwidth though. You'll have to push 1.85-1.9V or higher to push over 2600 with the profiles.
> MemTweakIt is basically useless except to show timings.


hey cadaveca - lowing Dram refresh interval seems to speed things up.. but won't hold a setting in bios? you know what I'm saying? or need an example?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> hey cadaveca - lowing Dram refresh interval seems to speed things up.. but won't hold a setting in bios? you know what I'm saying? or need an example?


nah, as Raja mentioned before, the DRAM training routine will do what's needed on boot, and that's why this value will change. It is also why I suggest rebooting often between testing memory OCs, since cold boot and warm boot settings will differ. DRAM refresh will change with some DIMMs according to heat, even, as some need higher values when hot. Funny you mention it, actually, as I was discussing this a little bit on my home forum, too.

Can't say it's of much concern to me, but yeah, it can definitely affect performance, but I think the other secondary timings used play a role as well, and on boot, it gets adjusted to match everything else you've set. My systems do boot just fine with what I've set, however, so maybe that due to my choice of other timings... or... IT'SA MAGIC!!!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> No problem! If ya have any issues, post about it, maybe we can get ya stable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, you should be concerned. You P95 install/folder is corrupted from a crash. Re-download the app.
Click to expand...

I like this bloke , he has LOTS of experience









Okay got this but wants enormous amounts of vcore to nearly finish Mk 11 bench .









http://valid.x86.fr/qg66g8


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I like this bloke , he has LOTS of experience
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay got this but wants enormous amounts of vcore to nearly finish Mk 11 bench .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/qg66g8


he sure does.







just don't call him a guru









I'd say that's a daaaum good OC for (slightly sub?) ambient temps. Nice work bro!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> he sure does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just don't call him a guru
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd say that's a daaaum good OC for (slightly sub?) ambient temps. Nice work bro!


He has very good timing LooooooL









Oh yes sub amb . My cpu's will NEVER run , stress or bench at ambient again . I run the cards on a separate loop on the HC-1000 now . So I can run that when I see fit ( save elec ) plus the cards under load have never seen more that 45c at ambient ( summer ) .








Cpu water temp is ATM 9c 7.8c .....


http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8629520

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8601470

I believe around 180blck is the spot , but this chip will nearly o/clock on whatever blck you set it at ....... nice


----------



## Fidelitas

http://valid.canardpc.com/uq9wmu


----------



## Jpmboy

the recent discussion here prompted me to look at the 2400 vs 2666 memory... the reduction in Read speed always bugged me vs 2400 'cause of it's influence on Copy speed (which may be more representative of real-world work??). so here's a comparison of [email protected](off 166 strap), [email protected] strap and [email protected] strap. Cpu freq varies a little but all within 50Hz:
cpuZ:
http://valid.canardpc.com/4dwd8x
http://valid.canardpc.com/ll1x0e
http://valid.canardpc.com/7202sz

Screenshots with AID64 Memory benchmark for each:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Sorry - 4K shots, so you need ot open the "Original" to see the numbers



summary:
4.860/2400 67070 copy
4.833/2667 65752 copy
4.875/2667 65661 copy
But read speed of 2667 is REALLY low...? What's the impact of QPI speed on memory performance?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> That's a good thing. keep it at medium if you can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Advice from Asus is to leave the 2nd VTT on auto. Remember, you are changing the CPU "gear ratio" at 125, uncoupled from the other bus paths.. increasing with bclk from there changes the other clock frequencies correspondingly (eg, PCIE). at some point phase lock and skew will probably need tweaking
> no... not that I recall.
> Uh... delete then reinstall p95.
> after that - load a stable setting and open an elevated command prompt: check to see that the core kernel of windows is not corrupted. "sfc /scannow". should report "no integrity violations".
> 
> [ah - I see cadaveca already advised the same]


Tried reinstalling new copy of Prime, got the same message. I also ran the sfc / scannow from my command prompt and it came back clean. I had this same problem with a previous processor and a mother board, so I am not sure what is causing it. All of my other software, including Intel's processor diagnostic tool recognize the processor. I am running Windows 8.1, do you think that may be tghe problem? Go figure. I will try the auto setting on the second VIT but that is contrary to the UK Overclock article you suggested I read, which states to set them with no more than a 4mv difference. Did I misunderstand that?

On another subject, because I am only running at 4.00ghz on 33x133.500, my Intel Processor Diagnostics fails, stating that it is looking for 3.6ghz and only finding 3.3ghz. Any comments on that one. When I run it at 4.5 at 36x125.000, the processor test passes.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> On another subject, because I am only running at 4.00ghz on 33x133.500, my Intel Processor Diagnostics fails, stating that it is looking for 3.6ghz and only finding 3.3ghz. Any comments on that one. When I run it at 4.5 at 36x125.000, the processor test passes.


hmm... That's interesting. The only time I've had that message in P95 have been because something got screwy with P95, but it could relate to other OS failure. Or, it just might be some other odd thing... but you posting that intrigues me. Your BCLK is not stable, PCH is losing stability, maybe. 133 is pushing it a bit and I bet you'd have some USB 3.0 issues, too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> summary:
> 4.860/2400 67070 copy
> 4.833/2667 65752 copy
> 4.875/2667 65661 copy
> But read speed of 2667 is REALLY low...? What's the impact of QPI speed on memory performance?


Gotta look at tertiary timings, first. Could be changes there that account for the performance deficit. Could also need a boost to vccsa...


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> hmm... That's interesting. The only time I've had that message in P95 have been because something got screwy with P95, but it could relate to other OS failure. Or, it just might be some other odd thing... but you posting that intrigues me. Your BCLK is not stable, PCH is losing stability, maybe. 133 is pushing it a bit and I bet you'd have some USB 3.0 issues, too.
> Gotta look at tertiary timings, first. Could be changes there that account for the performance deficit. Could also need a boost to vccsa...


It's a mistery to me as well. If I put the program folder on my C drive under program files 86, it gives me even a stranger message. I am not having any problems with my USB 3.0, but I found pretty good 24/7 settings at 4.5Ghz @2000Mhz on the RAM. Please take a look at these:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















Please take a hard look at the Digi power settings, notice that the CPU VSA setting is gone. It does that in 100 blck mode too. Maybe a bad bios?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Tried reinstalling new copy of Prime, got the same message. I also ran the sfc / scannow from my command prompt and it came back clean. I had this same problem with a previous processor and a mother board, so I am not sure what is causing it. All of my other software, including Intel's processor diagnostic tool recognize the processor. I am running Windows 8.1, do you think that may be tghe problem? Go figure. I will try the auto setting on the second VIT but that is contrary to the UK Overclock article you suggested I read, which states to set them with no more than a 4mv difference. Did I misunderstand that?
> On another subject, because I am only running at 4.00ghz on 33x133.500, my Intel Processor Diagnostics fails, stating that it is looking for 3.6ghz and only finding 3.3ghz. Any comments on that one. When I run it at 4.5 at 36x125.000, the processor test passes.


just keep 2nd VTT on auto... do what's needed with the primary VTT for stability. it's 400mV (and only a guideline, not a rule)

_"VTT Voltage is the voltage supplied to the PCI EX lanes controller and interconnecting section within the CPU. This setting helps with both DRAM and BLK overclocking. For 24.7 I would not go over 1,2 on this setting ideally 1.15.
VTT2 does not help with overclocking at all but should be kept within 0.4v of VTT so as to ensure Intels spec is maintained."_

no idea what's going on with IPD or p95 over there..








just don't burn out youre cpu with too much p95 (or overdo any stress testing)

you still running 64GB ram?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> hmm... That's interesting. The only time I've had that message in P95 have been because something got screwy with P95, but it could relate to other OS failure. Or, it just might be some other odd thing... but you posting that intrigues me. Your BCLK is not stable, PCH is losing stability, maybe. 133 is pushing it a bit and I bet you'd have some USB 3.0 issues, too.
> Gotta look at tertiary timings, first. Could be changes there that account for the performance deficit. Could also need a boost to vccsa...


already boosted vsa to 1.3. going higher does not help the read speed. I'm getting 74K write. I just can't imaging such a large disparity is beneficial for performance. would love to see "near" identical read/write @ 2666. got it with 2133 and 2400, (and 2470). has anyone gotten parity with R/W at 2666?

oh man... tweak 20 settings?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> It's a mistery to me as well. If I put the program folder on my C drive under program files 86, it gives me even a stranger message. I am not having any problems with my USB 3.0, but I found pretty good 24/7 settings at 4.5Ghz @2000Mhz on the RAM. Please take a look at these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please take a hard look at the Digi power settings, notice that the CPU VSA setting is gone. It does that in 100 blck mode too. Maybe a bad bios?


whut is with the clk skew? Have you tried leaving that alone? sheesh. You gotta keep everything as low as possible...and setting VTT and VCCSA that close to each other is a no-no to me.

And can you lower VTT or VCCSA?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> oh man... tweak 20 settings?


Uh...yeah? ROFL. As to read/write performance, did you done did gone and did check my screenshots?









And like I said earlier, check back through the thread, find centvalny's screenshots, too... yeah, it's work, but oh well.

LuLz, you guys, as I know whut I am talking about. I'm just a good troll.


----------



## Jpmboy

NVM


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You gotta keep everything as low as possible...and setting VTT and VCCSA that close to each other is a no-no to me.


really i was told they need to be close ( iirc what .3v or .03 idr off the top of my head )

i keep mine @ 1.12 iirc


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really i was told they need to be close ( iirc what .3v or .03 idr off the top of my head )
> 
> i keep mine @ 1.12 iirc


I dunno why anyone would say that, since at stock, they aren't that close. my VTT is @ 1.05v, VCCSA @ 0.900V(which is stock). Kinda makes that "rule" seem like what worked for one chip, or whatever. That's a 0.15V difference. I like to maintain at least a 0.1V difference, so 1.15V would get 1.05V VCCSA. IF VCCSA needs, higher, I'd increase VTT to match that ratio. Works well with all of my chips, SB-E and IVB-E alike(also SB, IVB, Haswell, too).

Like...look...Like I said, I don't know anything, really, other than my own experience. I don't contact my OEM reps when I run into issues. I shouldn't have to, IMHO. I just change settings, one by one, blah blah blah... So I could totally be wrong. But that idea...doesn't match a chip at stock, so where did that come form? Someone running LN2? Someone running benches only? Or someone looking for 24/7 use? How do we qualify the validity of that?


----------



## Mega Man

just a friend, before i knew you fine fellows, ill look into changing it this weekend and retesting... if i have time ( sis is getting married )


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just a friend, before i knew you fine fellows, ill look into changing it this weekend and retesting... if i have time ( sis is getting married )


That's an awesome event to have to delay tweaking for... I hope you have fun!!! (How can you not?







)

Yet again, maybe I'm completely wrong...I mean, if you are stable, it should be good to go. What I can say is what jpmboy posted above...VTT and SECONDARY VTT get this suggestion by the ASUS-based guides, but I don't follow THAT either. In fact, I think that this was something that SHamino mentioned at first, and then said it wasn't necessary, but that could have been for the 1155/1150 platform...


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really i was told they need to be close ( iirc what .3v or .03 idr off the top of my head )
> 
> i keep mine @ 1.12 iirc


JPMboy originally turned me on to this thread last week. According to this guy, who is suppose to be a world renoun expert and one of the editors of UK Overclocks, states that according to Intel specs, VIT and VCSSA are suppose to be set within .05mv of each other. When I had it spread out at about .1 last week, JMP advised me to tighten them up to .05. He also told me that a 125 strap was a sweet spot for the 4960x on 4.5Ghz, so I am really confused as to what information is correct.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> JPMboy originally turned me on to this thread last week. According to this guy, who is suppose to be a world renoun expert and one of the editors of UK Overclocks, states that according to Intel specs, VIT and VCSSA are suppose to be set within .05mv of each other. When I had it spread out at about .1 last week, JMP advised me to tighten them up to .05. He also told me that a 125 strap was a sweet spot for the 4960x on 4.5Ghz, so I am really confused as to why he ragged out the settings I posted, because I have them exactly as the link he sent me advised me to set them.


Yeah, but that's a different board. And that info was posted by a guy that runs LN2 and posts records to HWBOT. Always take all information within context. Overclockers.co.uk sells hardware, so if your chip pops, and you gotta buy another...who benefits? I sell nothing.

Just sayin'.








ROFL.


----------



## NEOAethyr

Hey dudes, need some help getting asus to acknowledge the bugs..., the most important being the mem bandwith bug.
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46486-X79-BIOS-bug-might-affect-all-x79-boards

Specifically I'de like you guys to post a link to that thread on other hardware forums, like guru3d.com and overclockers.co.uk, and maybe even the intel support forum might help.
Toms hardware, etc etc...

So far there's only threads at the asus rog forum and xtremesystems.
If we spread the word a bit maybe they'll fix this major prob.

I know alot of you guys don't care about the 100mhz strap so much or the bugs that come with it, but I care.
It's important to me, for 24/7 clocks.
And also, I want my cpu working right in linux with a 100mhz strap ^^.

If we wait to long, it'll never get fixed and this board will only be good for suicide runs essentially, instead of an actual working workstation.

I really need your help on this guys/gals.
The asus reps won't even talk about it, so I think were gonna have to force there hand a little.
I honestly believe it's intel's bug though, but I'm not sure.
I don't have any other brands of x79 boards to test this theory.

So far it seems the bug affects multipliers higher then stock, and ram div's higher then 1866 on the 100mhz strap.
In my opinion, this board is no better then any generic board with this bug and the 49xx cpu's.
The 39xx cpu's are not affected by the bug.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, but that's a different board. And that info was posted by a guy that runs LN2 and posts records to HWBOT. Always take all information within context. Overclockers.co.uk sells hardware, so if your chip pops, and you gotta buy another...who benefits? I sell nothing.
> 
> Just sayin'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ROFL.


Who buys stuff from them? 8Pack's guide has been very helpful to many users and it's aimed at 24/7 clocks not LN2 conditions.
Easy guys...

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907

and raja's x79 guides:

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=

http://www.overclock.net/t/1186959/rampage-iv-extreme-uefi-guide-for-overclocking/0_20
(read re: clk skew)

Some light reading....pg 62 forward:

4th-gen-core-i7-lga2011-datasheet-vol-1.pdf 880k .pdf file


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> JPMboy originally turned me on to this thread last week. According to this guy, who is suppose to be a world renoun expert and one of the editors of UK Overclocks, states that according to Intel specs, VIT and VCSSA are suppose to be set within .05mv of each other. When I had it spread out at about .1 last week, JMP advised me to tighten them up to .05. He also told me that a 125 strap was a sweet spot for the 4960x on 4.5Ghz, so I am really confused as to *why he ragged out the settings I posted, because I have them exactly as the link he sent me advised me to set them*.


who ragged-out on your settings?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> It's a mistery to me as well. If I put the program folder on my C drive under program files 86, it gives me even a stranger message. I am not having any problems with my USB 3.0, but I found pretty good 24/7 settings at 4.5Ghz @2000Mhz on the RAM. Please take a look at these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Please take a hard look at the Digi power settings, notice that the CPU VSA setting is gone.* It does that in 100 blck mode too. Maybe a bad bios?


what is "gone". not sure what you are talking about.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> who ragged-out on your settings?


Sorry, I misread another response that had a response to you that I thought was from you. My sincerest apologies.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Sorry, I misread another response that had a response to you that I thought was from you. My sincerest apologies.


no worries bro. go slow and tune your system one variable at a time until you get the performance you want... for the use you intend. You'll find info here and elsewhere that is useful for benchmarking settings and for 24/7 use. Just be careful which is which. I DO sympathize with Neo... there is a bug in the bios affecting ram that requires way too much fiddling to get ram to perform at it's xmp spec and speed. ("the 42K bug"). many folks here have experienced it.

check this thread for help too.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Did try some 4,7 Ghz today with both 1,425 and 1,43 volts in bios without being able to be stable at P95. I may try 1,435, but I am already seing about 1,456 volts in CPU-Z, so I do not know how far I am going to push. This clock will only be "benchmarking overclock" though. For a stable 24/7 clock I am working my way up from the bottom, have done one pass with 3,9 Ghz at 1,2 volts, will try 4,0 and see where that get me.
4,3 with 1,25 volts in bios (1,28 volts in CPU-Z) BSOD 116 or something immidiatly after starting P95. I like to do under 1,3 volts for 24/7 usage.

Downloaded the 28.4 version of the Prime95 too, because it seemed like my "old" version did not work properly. I will keep you guys posted.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Who buys stuff from them? 8Pack's guide has been very helpful to many users and it's aimed at 24/7 clocks not LN2 conditions.
> Easy guys...
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907
> 
> and raja's x79 guides:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1186959/rampage-iv-extreme-uefi-guide-for-overclocking/0_20
> (read re: clk skew)
> 
> Some light reading....pg 62 forward:
> 
> 4th-gen-core-i7-lga2011-datasheet-vol-1.pdf 880k .pdf file


Well, that's the thing, we were talking about a suggestion in 8Pack's guide there about keeping VCCSA and VTT within a certain ratio. 8Pack's guide says that was suggested by Intel, but that's not to be found anywhere but in his guide. My suggestion is that he might have got this info from Intel for LN2 use, since no CPU, at stock, follows these rules and it is not documented anywhere, nor have I seen any problems NOT following his suggestion that he says was suggested by Intel.

Again, take everything in context, rather than looking at the individual comment.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Who buys stuff from them? 8Pack's guide has been very helpful to many users and it's aimed at 24/7 clocks not LN2 conditions.
> Easy guys...
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907
> 
> and raja's x79 guides:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1186959/rampage-iv-extreme-uefi-guide-for-overclocking/0_20
> (read re: clk skew)
> 
> Some light reading....pg 62 forward:
> 
> 4th-gen-core-i7-lga2011-datasheet-vol-1.pdf 880k .pdf file


Well, that's the thing, we were talking about a suggestion in 8Pack's guide there about keeping VCCSA and VTT within a certain ratio. 8Pack's guide says that was suggested by Intel, but that's not to be found anywhere but in his guide. My suggestion is that he might have got this info from Intel for LN2 use, since no CPU, at stock, follows these rules and it is not documented anywhere, nor have I seen any problems NOT following his suggestion that he says was suggested by Intel.

Again, take everything in context, rather than looking at the individual comment.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Who buys stuff from them? 8Pack's guide has been very helpful to many users and it's aimed at 24/7 clocks not LN2 conditions.
> Easy guys...
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907
> 
> and raja's x79 guides:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking&country=&status=
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1186959/rampage-iv-extreme-uefi-guide-for-overclocking/0_20
> (read re: clk skew)
> 
> Some light reading....pg 62 forward:
> 
> 4th-gen-core-i7-lga2011-datasheet-vol-1.pdf 880k .pdf file


Well, that's the thing, we were talking about a suggestion in 8Pack's guide there about keeping VCCSA and VTT within a certain ratio. 8Pack's guide says that was suggested by Intel, but that's not to be found anywhere but in his guide. My suggestion is that he might have got this info from Intel for LN2 use, since no CPU, at stock, follows these rules and it is not documented anywhere, nor have I seen any problems NOT following his suggestion that he says was suggested by Intel.

Again, take everything in context, rather than looking at the individual comment.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Well, that's the thing, we were talking about a suggestion in 8Pack's guide there about keeping VCCSA and VTT within a certain ratio. 8Pack's guide says that was suggested by Intel, but that's not to be found anywhere but in his guide. My suggestion is that he might have got this info from Intel for LN2 use, since no CPU, at stock, follows these rules and it is not documented anywhere, nor have I seen any problems NOT following his suggestion that he says was suggested by Intel.
> 
> Again, take everything in context, rather than looking at the individual comment.


I was acutally looking at VCCSA & VTT last night. I loaded optimized defaults, saved and exited, then restarted again. In the bios VTT & VCCSA were not anywhere near .05v of each other. If memory serves correctly VTT was 1.2ish & VCCSA was 1.05ish. I saw somewhere, that VCCSA & VCore shouldn't be more than .30v apart. Vcore was 1.276 while I was in there which is under that .3v deviation I saw. I don't really have a question, just posted what I saw in my bios last night. I too, was under the impression VTT & VCCSA was not supposed to be more than .05v from each other.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Well, that's the thing, we were talking about a suggestion in 8Pack's guide there about keeping VCCSA and VTT within a certain ratio. 8Pack's guide says that was suggested by Intel, but that's not to be found anywhere but in his guide. My suggestion is that he might have got this info from Intel for LN2 use, since no CPU, at stock, follows these rules and it is not documented anywhere, nor have I seen any problems NOT following his suggestion that he says was suggested by Intel.
> 
> Again, take everything in context, rather than looking at the individual comment.


either my s5 is borked, or that was just a triple post.









anyway - it's all guidelines since each chip/mobo/bios combination is different (which determine what "stock" is as you know). And this is OCN.. so specs mean squat.







(like the DO NOT EXCEED 1.4V vcore spec by intel) the relative voltages are ferreted out by looking at the "voltage"_typ multiplier off of voltage VID. i think it's pg 63 or 64.


----------



## strong island 1

hey guys does anyone know anything about the vga hotwire on this board. I hooked mine up last night and it works fine with the OC panel but I can't find vga tweakers paradise in the bios and I can't adjust anything in the bios. I know other ROG boards have vga tweakers paradise in the bios but can't find it here. There is a vga voltage boost option which should fully unlock the voltage allowed. Am I missing something?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Okay, I tried 4,0 Ghz at 1,200 volts (and 1,205 volts) in bios, with the "new" downloaded P95-file I got the message on worker #2 saying: "FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0,5, expected less than 0,4", "Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt". My experience with this "problem" is that if I add more voltage it do not show, but what is really the problem here? Do I need to tweak something else?

RAM-sticks pass Memtest every time (done it a few times now because it has been suggested before), CPU is only 50 degree celsius when this happens, it does run 4,5 Ghz with 1,408 volts just fine (without this error), also does 4,6 Ghz at 1,44 volts (also without this error). Same RAM-sticks at 1866 and "stock" timings and voltage.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> hey guys does anyone know anything about the vga hotwire on this board. I hooked mine up last night and it works fine with the OC panel but I can't find vga tweakers paradise in the bios and I can't adjust anything in the bios. I know other ROG boards have vga tweakers paradise in the bios but can't find it here. There is a vga voltage boost option which should fully unlock the voltage allowed. Am I missing something?


It's all handled via the OC panel now, works fine with my 7970 MATRIX, but I haven't got any other cards with Hotwire to try. If you check out the RIVBE thread on kingpincooling, there's a PDF with the guide for how to use it there in Shammy's Liar.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> And this is OCN.. so specs mean squat.


NOW we're talking!!!


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It's all handled via the OC panel now, works fine with my 7970 MATRIX, but I haven't got any other cards with Hotwire to try. If you check out the RIVBE thread on kingpincooling, there's a PDF with the guide for how to use it there in Shammy's Liar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW we're talking!!!


ya I got it working fine with oc panel. everything works but on the maximus vi extreme and the regular rive there is a vga tweakers paradise section in the bios that has some additional settings. I wonder why they left that off of the RIVE BE. the m6e also has oc panel so I don't think that is the reason. There is an option I see in the vga tweaker section of m6e that says vga core boost which unlocks a higher vga voltage offset but it's not in black edition bios. it's really strange especially since rive had it. It might not be needed but I want to make sure I don't have a voltage limit.

I read shammy's guide but he refers to the m5e instructions because he says it's similar, but the m5e instructions do show vga options in bios. So i'm confused.


----------



## Jpmboy

@cadaveca ... lol, cajoled into debuging this 2666 read speed thing with my ram.
So,
GSkill 2400C9 4x4 kit
36x125, 2666 ram
11-13-13-35-2-214 (same as the GS 2666 I had some time ago) can probably run [email protected]
VDimm @ 1.675V
Vcore @ 1.250V LLC High
[email protected] 1.1625V
2nd VTT @ auto
[email protected] 1.13V
PLL @ 1.65V

On auto all secondary and tertiary settings loaded the same as this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






which you posted not long ago...

With the exception of ONE tertiary timing... tCCD. With it at 1 (via auto) 2666 read was ~62K. changing this from 1 to 0 gave speed parity at 69K across the R/W/C speeds. ONE freakin setting !!!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> @cadaveca ... lol, cajoled into debuging this 2666 read speed thing with my ram.With the exception of ONE tertiary timing... tCCD. With it at 1 (via auto) 2666 read was ~62K. changing this from 1 to 0 gave speed parity at 69K across the R/W/C speeds. ONE freakin setting !!!


Heh. I did post that screenie and mention it was for the tertiaries for good reason. And now you know how to fix the "bug". I wasn't about to post it and help out Raja with that one since he gave me some attitude. But you let the cat out of the bag, so there ya go.









Try playing with VCCSA loadline, it might push the performance up a bit. I'd rather have slightly higher loadline and lower voltage on VCCSA.If you really need that much...I must have one killer chip...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I read shammy's guide but he refers to the m5e instructions because he says it's similar, but the m5e instructions do show vga options in bios. So i'm confused.


Yeah, when it was built into the board, there was limits in place, but I did not find the same limits here in the OC panel. If you need more than what it offers, you gotta hard-mod, no two ways about it.with the M5E, there was a specific point where voltage took a big jump, but it works nice and smooth with the OC panel, so I think maybe that's why they chose to use this method of the external PCB. There is also the new MATRIX controller, for the newer cards, so there might be some compatibility thing there too, I am not sure about this since the last card I got from ASUS was that 7970.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Heh. I did post that screenie and mention it was for the tertiaries for good reason. And now you know how to fix the "bug". I wasn't about to post it and help out Raja with that one since he gave me some attitude. But you let the cat out of the bag, so there ya go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try playing with VCCSA loadline, it might push the performance up a bit. I'd rather have slightly higher loadline and lower voltage on VCCSA.If you really need that much...I must have one killer chip...
> Yeah, when it was built into the board, there was limits in place, but I did not find the same limits here in the OC panel. If you need more than what it offers, you gotta hard-mod, no two ways about it.with the M5E, there was a specific point where voltage took a big jump, but it works nice and smooth with the OC panel, so I think maybe that's why they chose to use this method of the external PCB. There is also the new MATRIX controller, for the newer cards, so there might be some compatibility thing there too, I am not sure about this since the last card I got from ASUS was that 7970.


haven't tried to lower vsa or vtt since i don't run 2666 24/7. 2133c8 or 2333c9 are plenty. Not the fix for the 100 bclk memory divider bug per your thing with raja (I think)


----------



## JLMS2010

Here is mine so far.








VCCSA 1.13 (seems high how long until I kill my chip?)
VTT 1.15


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Here is mine so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VCCSA 1.13 (seems high how long until I kill my chip?)
> VTT 1.15


nice - was it tCCD? or ?

you may be able to lower vsa and vtt... my 4960 has needed higher values for these when above 2133. not all do it seems. I was struck that all my tert settings were good from auto except that one !! Was good to see it fixed at 166x29.


----------



## JLMS2010

This was my first successful attempt. I have tired 10-12-12-31 and every time I ran the aida64 benchmark it would freeze on the "copy" test. I also set tCCD to 0 from when the teritary timings were posted the other day.







i went back and changed it to 1 and sure enough it dropped to 62k

Another thing. I upped the multiplier in bios to 37 yielding 4625MHz saved and exited. CPUz and aida64 both say it's running at 36x 4500MHz. I tried it a couple times to make sure I saved the 37x setting and I did. It shows 37x in the bios. I'm sure I must have over looked something right?? Anybody?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> haven't tried to lower vsa or vtt since i don't run 2666 24/7. 2133c8 or 2333c9 are plenty. Not the fix for the 100 bclk memory divider bug per your thing with raja (I think)


I'm just torllolololing a bit, hoping he'd pop his head in.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> This was my first successful attempt. I have tired 10-12-12-31 and every time I ran the aida64 benchmark it would freeze on the "copy" test. I also set tCCD to 0 from when the teritary timings were posted the other day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i went back and changed it to 1 and sure enough it dropped to 62k
> 
> Another thing. I upped the multiplier in bios to 37 yielding 4625MHz saved and exited. CPUz and aida64 both say it's running at 36x 4500MHz. I tried it a couple times to make sure I saved the 37x setting and I did. It shows 37x in the bios. I'm sure I must have over looked something right?? Anybody?


maybe some power plan setting in OS or BIOS, or maybe your BIOS is starting to get corrupted. Or maybe you got AI Suite installed and it's over-riding your settings. OR maybe you disabled turbo?


----------



## JLMS2010

I'll double check turbo and the OS. I don't have AI Suite. Maybe I'll flash to the latest bios then.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> *This was my first successful attempt. I have tired 10-12-12-31 and every time I ran the aida64 benchmark it would freeze on the "copy" test*. I also set tCCD to 0 from when the teritary timings were posted the other day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i went back and changed it to 1 and sure enough it dropped to 62k
> 
> Another thing. *I upped the multiplier in bios to 37 yielding 4625MHz* saved and exited. CPUz and aida64 both say it's running at 36x 4500MHz. I tried it a couple times to make sure I saved the 37x setting and I did. It shows 37x in the bios. I'm sure I must have over looked something right?? Anybody?


Yeah - it's that one setting for 2666, all other tertiary timings on Auto load and work just fine.







Easy - no way I was going to tweak 20 settings and test. It was the only difference between Auto and cadeveca's timings







(excepting the primaries this kits needs).
What's your memory kit rated at? What voltage worked for 2666. I got T1 working fine at 1.68V. T2 was 1.675.

So you F10 to load the change to 37x, and it's not accepting 37x125? that's strange. before flashing, I'd clrcmos and try again.

yeah - been a while since raja stopped by. We've been abandoned for x99 I think.


----------



## Kimir

True that, they had z97 and now it follows with x99 and ddr4, if there is any fixes being done on x79 by now it would be a miracle!
2133c8 tight is as fast as 2400c9,so we are good for hour daily anyway.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> either my s5 is borked, or that was just a triple post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyway - it's all guidelines since each chip/mobo/bios combination is different (which determine what "stock" is as you know). And this is OCN.. so specs mean squat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (like the DO NOT EXCEED 1.4V vcore spec by intel) the relative voltages are ferreted out by looking at the "voltage"_typ multiplier off of voltage VID. i think it's pg 63 or 64.


We are talking millivolts here, not big voltages, watts and currents. I think what it really comes down to is are you concerned with longevity or getting all you can while you can? I think it is also prudent to look at the whole picture. Intel engineers create specifications under normal operating perimeters that include temperatures, watts, current and who knows what else. When they design (engineer) a chip, they are not writing specifications with people (madmen) like Homepc in mind or people who don't have to shell out just under a grand for a 4960x who have no problem whatsoever with putting whatever juice it takes to get the highest clock possible.

If you are using an awesome liquid cooler, you get your processors for free, or you have gone off the deep end like Home, I am sure that the engineers at Intel would have a whole different specification sheet for processor that fall under those types of operating environments. I suspect the processor specifications that the engineers at Intel come up with are in consideration of people running small heat sinks cooled by air and buying their computers from places like Best Buy and Walmart. However, when it comes to voltages and if you are broke person like myself who had to save for months to buy a 4960x, it may be your best course of action to treat Intel's specifications, plus or minus ten percent, like it is the word of the almighty God.


----------



## Nichismo

Guys I dont know anything about memory timings and its relation to proper frequency.

But its frustrating that I cant even get above 1333mhz with my Dominator Plats that are rated at 1866. Its difficult to pinpoint what exactly is going wrong though, as I seem to be getting a small variety of BSODs or errors similar in nature whenever I try upping my memory speeds.

Ive tried increasing voltages, changing the latency boundrys and the "modes" in the BIOS but still no help. Im assuming its a timing issue.

Anyone have a template I could work or start with?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Guys I dont know anything about memory timings and its relation to proper frequency.
> 
> But its frustrating that I cant even get above 1333mhz with my Dominator Plats that are rated at 1866. Its difficult to pinpoint what exactly is going wrong though, as I seem to be getting a small variety of BSODs or errors similar in nature whenever I try upping my memory speeds.
> 
> Ive tried increasing voltages, changing the latency boundrys and the "modes" in the BIOS but still no help. Im assuming its a timing issue.
> 
> Anyone have a template I could work or start with?


How much memory are you running? What do you have your VCSSA set at? I was running 64gb at one time and dropped back to 32gb. I ran it all the time at 2133, but I had to give it some more VCSSA to get it stable. I am running 2133 Vengence Pros at 10-11-10-31-2 nearer with 1.50v dram and 1.145 VCSSA. I leave my VCSSA current under Digi at Regular so that it does not overvolt. At 1866, I run at 9-10-9-24-2 nearer with 1.120 VCSSA I hope that helps.


----------



## Mega Man

are the memory on the memory list, seems the RIVBE is very sensitive


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are the memory on the memory list, seems the RIVBE is very sensitive


Mine aren't.


----------



## Kimir

Pretty sure all the Dominator platinum are in the QVL.
And it doesn't mean much anyway, my trident x aren't in the QVL of the R4E and they work.


----------



## Nichismo

I didnt see them there


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yeah - been a while since raja stopped by. We've been abandoned for x99 I think.


PSH... he's got one brand to deal with, I have every brand. I'm still here... so what if he's got a billion guys like me to deal with, but not me. ROFL.

I could post some pics but... nah... not in THIS thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Guys I dont know anything about memory timings and its relation to proper frequency.
> 
> But its frustrating that I cant even get above 1333mhz with my Dominator Plats that are rated at 1866. Its difficult to pinpoint what exactly is going wrong though, as I seem to be getting a small variety of BSODs or errors similar in nature whenever I try upping my memory speeds.
> 
> Ive tried increasing voltages, changing the latency boundrys and the "modes" in the BIOS but still no help. Im assuming its a timing issue.
> 
> Anyone have a template I could work or start with?


Dominator platinums not working as they should...who would have thought...










You need to be a bit more descriptive about the problem. Do you get a POST code error, like no boot, or just general stability problems?

What BIOS version you got?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Yeah - it's that one setting for 2666, all other tertiary timings on Auto load and work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy - no way I was going to tweak 20 settings and test. It was the only difference between Auto and cadeveca's timings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (excepting the primaries this kits needs).


Basically ALL memory problems with this board amount to tertiary timing errors. It's the 8 GB sticks that are the most problematic, and need the most tweaking, since ASUS BIOS seems lazy with tertiaries.

And yeah...one bloody setting...there is no excuse there. Like, sure, you can load profiles, and pump the voltage up to 1.9V, and things MIGHT work...but not always, unfortunately.

2 minutes and I gotta take more pills, and this moment of clarity will pass... ROFL.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> PSH... he's got one brand to deal with, I have every brand. I'm still here... so what if he's got a billion guys like me to deal with, but not me. ROFL.
> 
> *I could post some pics but... nah...*
> 
> Dominator platinums not working as they should...who would have thought...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to be a bit more descriptive about the problem. Do you get a POST code error, like no boot, or just general stability problems?
> 
> What BIOS version you got?


What pics of you and your best mate from rog ........ Trolololololly


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> What pics of you and your best mate from rog ........ Trolololololly


LoL. I... I... Ah crap. I don't have NDA with Intel, so...

Take this:



I really hope we don't see any launch reviews with ES parts, or board with crappy BIOSes. Time will tell.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> What pics of you and your best mate from rog ........ Trolololololly


Hey Home, give Cadaveca a break.....he may secretly own ROG and could be a good source for some awesome freebies....lol


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> LoL. I... I... Ah crap. I don't have NDA with Intel, so...
> 
> Take this:
> 
> 
> 
> I really hope we don't see any launch reviews with ES parts, or board with crappy BIOSes. Time will tell.


That is definitely pretty....maybe you own Intel on the cool too?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> That is definitely pretty....maybe you own Intel on the cool too?


Nah. I just really love ASUS. Really. Almost as much as I love my RIVBE.










So let's talk about that now.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Nah. I just really love ASUS. Really. Almost as much as I love my RIVBE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So let's talk about that now.


I love my RIVBE too. If God was to create a mother board, I don't believe he could do it any better than what Asus has done with RIVBE. Even if you were to discount all the great things the bios and board will do, you got to love it just for the audio on it!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Nah. I just really love ASUS. Really. Almost as much as I love my RIVBE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So let's talk about that now.


Heres what ive been messin with
http://valid.canardpc.com/8iqmck


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Heres what ive been messin with
> http://valid.canardpc.com/8iqmck


Will that Sandybridge-E stand up to 1.616 for any extended period of time? Any problems with your 3.0 USB running at that bus speed?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Heres what ive been messin with
> http://valid.canardpc.com/8iqmck


I got a weak SB-E right now, that's taken a fair bit of abuse over the years since the platform launched, and it definitely wasn't the best sample in the first place. I'm very serious when I say I love this RIVBE, so I'm not done with it yet, and I'll be pushing all the chips and DDR3 I have sitting here with it once I clear the reviews I have sitting here. I've got a pretty full course workload this year, so I'll be taking a step back from reviews and will be spending more time on X79 OC with the RIVBE while going to school. I got some decent memory, and it seems at least one of my IVB-E is good, so I'm hoping to not run into any cold bugs as the temps drop outside here (it's only 9c locally right now), and I save some cash up to buy more LN2.

I dunno I'll be able to reach YOUR clocks though...man... that chilled water helps, eh?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Will that Sandybridge-E stand up to 1.616 for any extended period of time? Any problems with your 3.0 USB running at that bus speed?


Yeah I can even game on it too
No usb 3 probs









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I got a weak SB-E right now, that's taken a fair bit of abuse over the years since the platform launched, and it definitely wasn't the best sample in the first place. I'm very serious when I say I love this RIVBE, so I'm not done with it yet, and I'll be pushing all the chips and DDR3 I have sitting here with it once I clear the reviews I have sitting here. I've got a pretty full course workload this year, so I'll be taking a step back from reviews and will be spending more time on X79 OC with the RIVBE while going to school. I got some decent memory, and it seems at least one of my IVB-E is good, so I'm hoping to not run into any cold bugs as the temps drop outside here (it's only 9c locally right now), and I save some cash up to buy more LN2.
> 
> I dunno I'll be able to reach YOUR clocks though...man... that chilled water helps, eh?


Yes it does







better elec use too








But before that I had a tank 3930k that benched consistently at [email protected] CL9 for nearly 10mths . Even benched it at 5.3++ with vcore over 1.7 and hitting 1.8vc 100% load







. I used ducted A/C blasting into case dropping water temps to 15c -17c .


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I got a weak SB-E right now, that's taken a fair bit of abuse over the years since the platform launched, and it definitely wasn't the best sample in the first place. I'm very serious when I say I love this RIVBE, so I'm not done with it yet, and I'll be pushing all the chips and DDR3 I have sitting here with it once I clear the reviews I have sitting here. I've got a pretty full course workload this year, so I'll be taking a step back from reviews and will be spending more time on X79 OC with the RIVBE while going to school. I got some decent memory, and it seems at least one of my IVB-E is good, so I'm hoping to not run into any cold bugs as the temps drop outside here (it's only 9c locally right now), and I save some cash up to buy more LN2.
> 
> I dunno I'll be able to reach YOUR clocks though...man... that chilled water helps, eh?


9c? It has been averaging 100f here with 90% humidity. Oh the joys of living in a swamp...lol I would love to get a cooler like Home-Cinema's, but I am still trying to figure out how to grow a money tree in the back yard.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> 9c? It has been averaging 100f here with 90% humidity. Oh the joys of living in a swamp...lol I would love to get a cooler like Home-Cinema's, but I am still trying to figure out how to grow a money tree in the back yard.


Casino


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Casino


Lol, how do you think I paid for my RIVBE , case and power supply? Three triple 4x on a dollar machine....lol


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> 9c? It has been averaging 100f here with 90% humidity. Oh the joys of living in a swamp...lol I would love to get a cooler like Home-Cinema's, but I am still trying to figure out how to grow a money tree in the back yard.


Yeah, 9c. 91% humidity. Beat that. ROFL. Welcome to Canada, eh?



http://weather.gc.ca/forecast/city_e.html?ab-50&unit=i

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Casino


Bitcoin.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Lol, how do you think I paid for my RIVBE , case and power supply? Three triple 4x on a dollar machine....lol


----------



## Shadowarez

Here at night it's been 3c-5c at night next to no humidity thanks to forest fires and no rain.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

9'C here yep, need -25'C though. Atleast the bugs bugged off.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 9'C here yep, need -25'C though. Atleast the bugs bugged off.










Pretty much.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> PSH... he's got one brand to deal with, I have every brand. I'm still here... so what if he's got a billion guys like me to deal with, but not me. ROFL.
> 
> I could post some pics but... nah... not in THIS thread.
> Dominator platinums not working as they should...who would have thought...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to be a bit more descriptive about the problem. Do you get a POST code error, like no boot, or just general stability problems?
> 
> What BIOS version you got?
> Basically ALL memory problems with this board amount to tertiary timing errors. It's the 8 GB sticks that are the most problematic, and need the most tweaking, since ASUS BIOS seems lazy with tertiaries.
> 
> And yeah...one bloody setting...there is no excuse there. Like, sure, you can load profiles, and pump the voltage up to 1.9V, and things MIGHT work...but not always, unfortunately.
> 
> 2 minutes and I gotta take more pills, and this moment of clarity will pass... ROFL.


I believe its general stability problems. My BIOS is version 0701. I have always gotten to the desktop, but it wont take long for a BSOD to eventually occur. I cant remember what they were specifically but I never recieved a WHEA error however, or a system thread exception. It was usually a couple different ones.

Are Dominator Platinums notorious for problems like this? I also remember on my 4770k, that when I increased speeds above 1333mhz, my CPU temps would jump drastically, but I always associated that with Haswell architecture in general....

Ive wanted Dominator GT's for a while now. Are those any better?


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Yeah - it's that one setting for 2666, all other tertiary timings on Auto load and work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy - no way I was going to tweak 20 settings and test. It was the only difference between Auto and cadeveca's timings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (excepting the primaries this kits needs).
> What's your memory kit rated at? What voltage worked for 2666. I got T1 working fine at 1.68V. T2 was 1.675.


The kit I have is Dominator Platinum 2133 C9 1.5v. I'm using 1.675 for 11-13-13-35-2t.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> So you F10 to load the change to 37x, and it's not accepting 37x125? that's strange. before flashing, I'd clrcmos and try again.
> 
> yeah - been a while since raja stopped by. We've been abandoned for x99 I think.


Yep. Enter bios, change to 37x F10 and exit. CPUID, core temp, & AIDA64 all say 36x. Strange...I'll try to clear the bios later today and see what happens.


----------



## Jpmboy

You did well with that 2133C9 kit to get 2666 at 1.675







nice work. That 37x thing is strange. Post back with what happens after a clrcmos. I'm on 602 since - if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I see the great frozen north is already chillin' down. Here in PA it's still summer... and will be so for quite some time yet.

@HOMECINEMA-PC these chillers do help quite a bit and are fairly robust. I believe Menthol has been running one for a long time. Mine has been hooked in for only about 6 months. Don't need it in the winter tho.


Three OC'd kingpins will overwhelm my lille 1/13HP unit after ` 3 FM runs or 2 Unigine benchmarks; have to wait 20 min or more for a cool down.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> You did well with that 2133C9 kit to get 2666 at 1.675
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice work. That 37x thing is strange. Post back with what happens after a clrcmos. I'm on 602 since - if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
> I see the great frozen north is already chillin' down. Here in PA it's still summer... and will be so for quite some time yet.


Thank you! I won't use it 24/7 at those settings. For what I do, I could leave it stock with XMP. Lol.....but....that wouldn't be any fun.








Yeah, I'm in VA it will be in the 90's today, we still have a ways to go before fall. I'll report back when I get a chance to mess with the multiplier issue.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Thank you! I won't use it 24/7 at those settings. For what I do, I could leave it stock with XMP. Lol.....but....that wouldn't be any fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm in VA it will be in the 90's today, we still have a ways to go before fall. I'll report back when I get a chance to mess with the multiplier issue.


1.675v is nothing for your ram. Go ahead and use it 24/7!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Here at night it's been 3c-5c at night next to no humidity thanks to forest fires and no rain.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much.


you guys and MrT are waay north of even Frostbite Falls.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> *I really hope we don't see any launch reviews with ES parts, or board with crappy BIOSes*. Time will tell.


wishful thinking....


----------



## Gunslinger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> LoL. I... I... Ah crap. I don't have NDA with Intel, so...
> 
> Take this:
> 
> I really hope we don't see any launch reviews with ES parts, or board with crappy BIOSes. Time will tell.


I'd be willing to bet that 99.9% of all the reviews will be with ES CPU parts. I know of 1 board with a strong bios that's ready for launch.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> I'd be willing to bet that 99.9% of all the reviews will be with ES CPU parts. *I know of 1 board with a strong bios that's ready for launch*.


that sounds promising.


----------



## Kimir

I hope it's the R5E.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> You did well with that 2133C9 kit to get 2666 at 1.675
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice work. That 37x thing is strange. Post back with what happens after a clrcmos. I'm on 602 since - if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
> I see the great frozen north is already chillin' down. Here in PA it's still summer... and will be so for quite some time yet.
> 
> @HOMECINEMA-PC these chillers do help quite a bit and are fairly robust. I believe Menthol has been running one for a long time. Mine has been hooked in for only about 6 months. Don't need it in the winter tho.
> 
> 
> Three OC'd kingpins will overwhelm my lille 1/13HP unit after ` 3 FM runs or 2 Unigine benchmarks; have to wait 20 min or more for a cool down.


Same deal with the HC-500 after a few laps of FM and the like with cpu / gpu's in loop . But the HC-1000a is a different story I can get the water temp under 18c under load . Separate them into two loops different story yet again can get water temps under load to 13c each loop









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> I'd be willing to bet that 99.9% of all the reviews will be with ES CPU parts. I know of 1 board with a strong bios that's ready for launch.


I hope its Asrock !! I would for once like to get a board of them that works the first time you power it up !! LoooooL


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Same deal with the HC-500 after a few laps of FM and the like with cpu / gpu's in loop . But the HC-1000a is a different story I can get the water temp under 18c under load . Separate them into two loops different story yet again can get water temps under load to 13c each loop


Yeah, I went cheap with this chiller when I bought it over a year ago. It sat for 6+ months... now i'm eyeballing more powerful units.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I kind of have some good news for my 3930K rig, it is going in the basement in a few weeks AND it is no isolation (solid concrete basement) without any kind of heating system. Ambient temperature during the winter is 9-10 degree C. In the summer I think 16-18 degree ambient. The computer will (from now) only be used for gaming in that room, it will not run 24/7. Could I technically use 1,4 ++ vcore all the time? Could I run 1,5 volts vcore all the time the computer is on? Will probably also do the pt1/pt3 bios on my R9 290X's and overclock as much as I can. The only heat-source in the room will be the computer, running the Air 540 without panels.

Could I hypothetical run the CPU at more than 1,5 volts vcore if I had a chiller? And how long should it hold with that kind of voltage?


----------



## Gunslinger.

1.4V you can get away with for sure, 1.5V might be a bit on the high side IMO, if it dies at 1.5V you have a clear upgrade path though.









How is the humidity in that basement?


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Heh. I did post that screenie and mention it was for the tertiaries for good reason. And now you know how to fix the "bug". I wasn't about to post it and help out Raja with that one since he gave me some attitude. But you let the cat out of the bag, so there ya go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try playing with VCCSA loadline, it might push the performance up a bit. I'd rather have slightly higher loadline and lower voltage on VCCSA.If you really need that much...I must have one killer chip...
> Yeah, when it was built into the board, there was limits in place, but I did not find the same limits here in the OC panel. If you need more than what it offers, you gotta hard-mod, no two ways about it.with the M5E, there was a specific point where voltage took a big jump, but it works nice and smooth with the OC panel, so I think maybe that's why they chose to use this method of the external PCB. There is also the new MATRIX controller, for the newer cards, so there might be some compatibility thing there too, I am not sure about this since the last card I got from ASUS was that 7970.


cool thanks, ya I love the rive be and the oc panel. I'm still findings things I can do with both of them that are amazing. There might not even be a limit and it seems to be working great with the matrix. at +75 offset on oc panel I am at 1.48v, it seems like every +1 offset isn't really equal to +1mv and is much more. I was worried at first that the oc panel only goes to +190 but it seems that equals way more than like 1.39v. Hopefully this weekend I will find out if there are any limits.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> wishful thinking....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> I'd be willing to bet that 99.9% of all the reviews will be with ES CPU parts. I know of 1 board with a strong bios that's ready for launch.


Ugh. You know, I think it's shame that I can get retail parts for review, and other sites do not. I feel that reviews should use the EXACT SAME PARTS that the end users get, so ES just isn't something I'll use, personally. I'd rather not do the review at all if it's using ES.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> cool thanks, ya I love the rive be and the oc panel. I'm still findings things I can do with both of them that are amazing. There might not even be a limit and it seems to be working great with the matrix. at +75 offset on oc panel I am at 1.48v, it seems like every +1 offset isn't really equal to +1mv and is much more. I was worried at first that the oc panel only goes to +190 but it seems that equals way more than like 1.39v. Hopefully this weekend I will find out if there are any limits.


Do keep us updated... the OC panel is a big part of why I love this board so much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I believe its general stability problems. My BIOS is version 0701. I have always gotten to the desktop, but it wont take long for a BSOD to eventually occur. I cant remember what they were specifically but I never recieved a WHEA error however, or a system thread exception. It was usually a couple different ones.
> 
> Are Dominator Platinums notorious for problems like this? I also remember on my 4770k, that when I increased speeds above 1333mhz, my CPU temps would jump drastically, but I always associated that with Haswell architecture in general....
> 
> Ive wanted Dominator GT's for a while now. Are those any better?


Nah, but I find that many ASUS boards either do not use full XMP timings, and this causes issues, or there's some other problem. I've never really had any issues with any Corsair modules unless they've been beaten hard, or are plain DOA (which can happen).

Hear more about how you are getting crashes might help but the vague mature or what you report can only let me give vague ideas of how you might solve the problem. It should be as simple as enabling XMP, and things work right, but it's not just Corsair modules that have this problem...you can look through this thread and find many users with memory issue, so I find it hard to place blame on the memory when I myself, with some time spent customizing settings, have gotten 100% stability.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> cool thanks, ya I love the rive be and the oc panel. I'm still findings things I can do with both of them that are amazing. There might not even be a limit and it seems to be working great with the matrix. at +75 offset on oc panel I am at 1.48v, it seems like every +1 offset isn't really equal to +1mv and is much more. I was worried at first that the oc panel only goes to +190 but it seems that equals way more than like 1.39v. Hopefully this weekend I will find out if there are any limits.


Hey strong - did you try to pm raja about that vga bios thing? curious to know why it was left out of the R4BE.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Hey strong - did you try to pm raja about that vga bios thing? curious to know why it was left out of the R4BE.


ya I actually did pm him yesterday. I could understand switching to the oc panel but the reason I am confused is the maximus vi extreme uses the oc panel and does have the vga tweaker paradise in the bios, so does m5e and original rive. There is a quote from shamino's guide on m5e where he says to enable vga core boost if the offset given isn't enough. Either way I will test this weekend on ln2. If I can get to like 1.6v then it will be a non issue but I would like to know why left out of rive be.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Ugh. You know, I think it's shame that I can get retail parts for review, and other sites do not. I feel that reviews should use the EXACT SAME PARTS that the end users get, so ES just isn't something I'll use, personally. I'd rather not do the review at all if it's using ES.
> Do keep us updated... the OC panel is a big part of why I love this board so much.
> Nah, but I find that many ASUS boards either do not use full XMP timings, and this causes issues, or there's some other problem. I've never really had any issues with any Corsair modules unless they've been beaten hard, or are plain DOA (which can happen).
> 
> Hear more about how you are getting crashes might help but the vague mature or what you report can only let me give vague ideas of how you might solve the problem. It should be as simple as enabling XMP, and things work right, but it's not just Corsair modules that have this problem...you can look through this thread and find many users with memory issue, so I find it hard to place blame on the memory when I myself, with some time spent customizing settings, have gotten 100% stability.


ah yes now that you mention it, I indeed tried XMP several times as well, to no avail. ive raised all DRAM power phases to high, or optimized, current to 120 or even 130%, VCSSA increases, anything that would seem even remotely possible at helping provide more headroom or security perhaps in ample power being supplied. But I didnt make any adjustments regarding blck, or timing, or latency as im very oblivious to those regards.


----------



## chimaychanga

Hey Guys

I have encountered a serious problem..

My rig has been shutdown for 1 month.. today I fired it up and I cant get any sound !!!

I have literally tried everything.. defaulting the bios, inserting a sound card.. etc

Any of you guys have clue what is wrong and what I should do ?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> 1.4V you can get away with for sure, 1.5V might be a bit on the high side IMO, if it dies at 1.5V you have a clear upgrade path though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is the humidity in that basement?


The CPU is a wreck anyways and the RAM I do not care much about, so it is just the RIVBE and the GPU's I do not hope go along with it.

What happens if it collapse at 1,5 volts or above?









I do not know how much humidity there is in the basement, but it is a normal room (closet, floor covering and so on). I have my stereo and TV there at the moment, but that is going into my room.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Hey Guys
> 
> I have encountered a serious problem..
> 
> My rig has been shutdown for 1 month.. today I fired it up and I cant get any sound !!!
> 
> I have literally tried everything.. defaulting the bios, inserting a sound card.. etc
> 
> Any of you guys have clue what is wrong and what I should do ?


loaded "optimized default"? or clrcmos?


----------



## Gunslinger.

Typically when the CPU goes it is the only thing to die, at least from my experience.


----------



## chimaychanga

Ive tried defaulting.. but where is the clear cmos button?


----------



## JLMS2010

On the back I/O panel under the top USB port


----------



## chimaychanga

Found it ! .. but doesnt change anything









What the hell is going on here !!!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Found it ! .. but doesnt change anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What the hell is going on here !!!


was the rig just switched off for a month or unplugged? Last resort is to either flip to the other bios, or flash over the one you're on. (and then, be sure to re-load the corresponding driver set for the new bios)


----------



## chimaychanga

It was switched off and unplugged.. today I reconnected everything as before.

I also tried flipping to bios 1.. but I havent tried flashing the bios

Could that even be the issue to my problem ?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunslinger.*
> 
> Typically when the CPU goes it is the only thing to die, at least from my experience.


Ah, that was good, then it is high voltage on me!







I do not want to buy the 3970X/4960X and new DDR3 RAM now with Haswell-E coming up with DDR4 and 5930K/5960X, so if the CPU goes down before those come I just wait for it. I will try to get stable 4,7/4,8 Ghz with my chip (then it needs close to 1,5 volts) and the chip is pretty old I think, so I do not know how long it would stay in a good condition.

4,6 Ghz is at 1,44 volts already, and it is not stable at 1,43 volts vcore in bios, I will tweak some more and see if I get 4,7 Ghz stable.

4,5 Ghz @ 1,408 volts CPU-Z stable at P95 (offset + 0,10)
4,6 Ghz @ 1,424 volts CPU-Z stable at P95 (offset + 0,20)
4,7 Ghz @ 1,440-1,456 volts CPU-Z crashes at P95, will try to tweak this stable, then try 4,8 Ghz.

I read somewhere that the Crucial RAM I have is not a good overclocker, but should I try to overclock that too? Mode 3, 9-9-9-24-2 original at 1,5 volts, if I could hit 2133 Mhz that would be awesome, the RAM is water cooled as well.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Found it ! .. but doesnt change anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What the hell is going on here !!!


was the rig just switched off for a month or unplugged? Last resort is to either flip to the other bios, or flash over the one you're on. (and then, be sure to re-load the corresponding driver set for the new bios)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> It was switched off and unplugged.. today I reconnected everything as before.
> 
> I also tried flipping to bios 1.. but I havent tried flashing the bios
> 
> Could that even be the issue to my problem ?


IDK... unlikely. but before tearing it apart a reflash and reinstall of the realtek audio driver is pretty easy. certainly would be on the list of things to try....


----------



## JLMS2010

Cleared cmos and still the same issue. Set 37x and only get 36x. Really weird, I would think it must be a setting causing the issue. I can set 47x multiplier on 100 strap without any issues so I don't know....

What settings do you guys use for a quick Prime95 run?

I changed strap to 27x and 166 strap.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Cleared cmos and still the same issue. Set 37x and only get 36x. Really weird, I would think it must be a setting causing the issue. I can set 47x multiplier on 100 strap without any issues so I don't know....
> 
> What settings do you guys use for a quick Prime95 run?
> 
> I changed strap to 27x and 166 strap.


custom, 12288 ram (out of 16GB) 5 min per FFT.

btw - i'm really starting to like 166 strap


----------



## Jpmboy




----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> custom, 12288 ram (out of 16GB) 5 min per FFT.
> 
> btw - i'm really starting to like 166 strap


Thanks! Any downside to using 166 strap?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Thanks! Any downside to using 166 strap?


none that I know of except it does not "appreciate" speedstep?


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> none that I know of except it does not "appreciate" speedstep?


Ah ok. Are you using 166 strap for 24/7?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Hey Guys
> 
> I have encountered a serious problem..
> 
> My rig has been shutdown for 1 month.. today I fired it up and I cant get any sound !!!
> 
> I have literally tried everything.. defaulting the bios, inserting a sound card.. etc
> 
> Any of you guys have clue what is wrong and what I should do ?


Have you tried to power up your speakers?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Ah ok. Are you using 166 strap for 24/7?


i have been for awhile... issue is that idle is 40+watts, whereas 4.6 or 4.7 with 100 strap and speed step idle at 14W. that's a fair difference. Basically i leave teh 2700K rig running all the time, this one gets shut off most every night. I'll tell ya tho, 166 strap and 2667 ram seem to like each other.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Ah ok. Are you using 166 strap for 24/7?


Here is a nice 4.750 @ 2000 that if your running a decent cpu cooler, you should have no issues with. And speed step in enabled.



38 x 125.000 at 1.425
RAM Set at 2000MHz 10-11-11-31 2 1.50v dram


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Have you tried to power up your speakers?


Of Course








Ive tested and excluded all basic troubleshoots..
I´ll try playing around with bios and driver when I get home tonight


----------



## =FIB=Goldberg

start playing some music then left click the speaker icon (bottom right) can you see a green line jumping up and down if yes then its probably speakers faulty not the computer . Easy way to check speakers is plug them into something else like a phone or ipod etc


----------



## xarot

Been a while since I was here.

I swapped my 4960X for 3970X for some testing, and with 3970X the 125 strap doesn't even boot. I tried 0602 and newer BIOSes. Any tricks?


----------



## NEOAethyr

I found this thread and I think it might be similar to the bug on the 4930k 100mhz strap where the multi is stuck on 34x.
I figured hey they supposedly fixed the bios for this guys bug, I've got one similar and a bunch more I should check this out...

On windows you can get around it by tweaking the power management profile (or just switching it to perf, I'm not sure on exacts).
On linux there isn't a way around it as far as I know.

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?42355-R4EBE-125strap-and-Multiplier-issue.

I tested it in windows and it fixed the prob (doesn't fix the mem bandwith though).
However after some swapping back and forth between power profiles (win cpl...), the cpu multi bug is no longer showing up.
So I just did a fresh install of linux and now I gotta touch up my install/tweak shell script to make sure that's ok, then wihtin an hour or 2 after running that I should be up and running with a working install which I should beable to check the cpu multi (need wine working good...).

Darned grub-install cmd thingy just wasn't working so I had to do a fresh install :\.
Wish me luck lol, it's gonna get real boring (for me) for a bit







.

Also seen the uefi bootldr change error thing on the bios even though I got uefi boot completely disabled all around.
Seen it twice booting the debian install dvd (I tried using it's recover mode, though I installed with the live disk).
Beats me why that would of came up just booting a dvd...

Oh and anyone else ever come across a prob with the audio being pre-amped to high by default and distorting like a mofo?
I'm just guessing as to what the prob is, in windows if you left click on the audio icon in the tray, you'll see a volume alalyzer bar thingy, one darker and one lighter behind it.
The darker one is as loud/tall as the lighter one in the bg when it has the distortion prob.
It fixes it's self if you fiddle with it, I forgot how now, It's happened once or twice right after installing the audio drivers in windows.
Also the realtek generic ver of the driver (hd of course..), fails on all of it's effects, none of them work, yet the asus ver works fine.


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=FIB=Goldberg*
> 
> start playing some music then left click the speaker icon (bottom right) can you see a green line jumping up and down if yes then its probably speakers faulty not the computer . Easy way to check speakers is plug them into something else like a phone or ipod etc


Did that already.. my KRK speakers works as always like charm


----------



## Raghar

So sound card is in a slot, slot isn't switched off, all drivers were installed, and you selected the sound card to be the default output device. And green bars in playback devices are waving as always.

If yes, install Linux on spare HD, half year old version of Debian worked flawlessly, and I managed to get sound from the on board sound chip.


----------



## chimaychanga

YES !!!

I updated to latest realtek driver and now its working again








Was seriously afraid that I had to go through an RMA and spend so much time on disassembling the whole rig.. phew

+REP to all of you who cared


----------



## JLMS2010

Glad to hear you got it working!


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> i have been for awhile... issue is that idle is 40+watts, whereas 4.6 or 4.7 with 100 strap and speed step idle at 14W. that's a fair difference. Basically i leave teh 2700K rig running all the time, this one gets shut off most every night. I'll tell ya tho, 166 strap and 2667 ram seem to like each other.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm going to play around with it some more this evening.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> YES !!!
> 
> I updated to latest realtek driver and now its working again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was seriously afraid that I had to go through an RMA and spend so much time on disassembling the whole rig.. phew
> 
> +REP to all of you who cared










easy! well done.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> So sound card is in a slot, slot isn't switched off, all drivers were installed, and you selected the sound card to be the default output device. And green bars in playback devices are waving as always.
> 
> If yes, install Linux on spare HD, half year old version of Debian worked flawlessly, and I managed to get sound from the on board sound chip.


he's using the on-board audio.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> he's using the on-board audio.


Unfortunately tis is a common problem I have, I've got M5E, M6E, and M7G all sitting here with the same audio problem. No reason to explain what, other than possible physical damage from installing a VGA...but under close examination, no damage can be noticed. What's doubly frystrating is that even digital audio output does not work... I suggest RMA of the board in this case.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> i have been for awhile... issue is that idle is 40+watts, whereas 4.6 or 4.7 with 100 strap and speed step idle at 14W. that's a fair difference. Basically i leave teh 2700K rig running all the time, this one gets shut off most every night. I'll tell ya tho, 166 strap and 2667 ram seem to like each other.


What do you have bclk skew set to? What does this do again?


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Unfortunately tis is a common problem I have, I've got M5E, M6E, and M7G all sitting here with the same audio problem. No reason to explain what, other than possible physical damage from installing a VGA...but under close examination, no damage can be noticed. What's doubly frystrating is that even digital audio output does not work... I suggest RMA of the board in this case.


Are you sure it's not the hdmi audio on the vga taking over as the default audio renderer?
Happened once to me, long time ago, diff board, it was probably the dfi 790fx I had.

Well anyways my idea of testing the potential cpu multi bug fix on linux is a nogo at the moment, killed 3 fresh installs of linux so far.
Well 2 actually, I took it 1 step at a time on the 3rd in a virtual box.
Seems there's something wrong with debian repo's, at least on 7.4 (freaking wierd because it worked fine last time I installed the os, like 2 months ago).
I'm getting 7.6 right now.
Eh this sucks lol.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> Are you sure it's not the hdmi audio on the vga taking over as the default audio renderer?
> Happened once to me, long time ago, diff board, it was probably the dfi 790fx I had.
> 
> Well anyways my idea of testing the potential cpu multi bug fix on linux is a nogo at the moment, killed 3 fresh installs of linux so far.
> Well 2 actually, I took it 1 step at a time on the 3rd in a virtual box.
> Seems there's something wrong with debian repo's, at least on 7.4 (freaking wierd because it worked fine last time I installed the os, like 2 months ago).
> I'm getting 7.6 right now.
> Eh this sucks lol.


Yes, quite sure.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> YES !!!
> 
> I updated to latest realtek driver and now its working again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was seriously afraid that I had to go through an RMA and spend so much time on disassembling the whole rig.. phew
> 
> +REP to all of you who cared


Thanks for the Rep. Now I'm half way there to be able to post in the marketplace. Lol


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Thanks for the Rep. Now I'm half way there to be able to post in the marketplace. Lol


LoL...I missed his post that he got it working. I wish it had been so easy in my case!!!

Audio stops working if you remove the Sonic Radar stuff...could have been that that caused the problem. I just disabled it and left it installed. Totally forgot about it doing that.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> What do you have bclk skew set to? What does this do again?


-1 or -2 depending on the multiplier (coupled to PCIE skew -10 or -20) apparently camn help to stabilize the bclk-strap-bus change. IDK exactly...








I cannot say for sure whether it helps with 166 or not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> LoL...I missed his post that he got it working. I wish it had been so easy in my case!!!
> Audio stops working if you remove the Sonic Radar stuff...could have been that that caused the problem. I just disabled it and left it installed. Totally forgot about it doing that.


ugh, never installed that sonic radar crp. Reviews panned it at the time. HDMI and IEMs are working fine without it.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Audio stops working if you remove the Sonic Radar stuff...could have been that that caused the problem. I just disabled it and left it installed. Totally forgot about it doing that.


NEVER install sonic radar. You would have working PC, probably.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> NEVER install sonic radar. You would have working PC, probably.


HuH?

My PC works fine.... and Sonic Radar is installed... troll much?









That said, it IS disabled. ROFL.


----------



## Nytestryke

Heres mine, a little late (got in February)... Better late than never


----------



## JLMS2010

Congrats! Welcome


----------



## Nytestryke

Thank you, it's been a solid board so far. Every time I see post I just want to push it further and further because it constantly feels like I'm not getting the most out of it... I say that with a 4.5 OCed 4930k


----------



## JLMS2010

I understand the feeling completely.


----------



## Mr iggy

Hey I have the RE4B and I have 32GB of Ram and but Windows 7 ultimate 64 bit only shows 16gb what is going on?


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr iggy*
> 
> Hey I have the RE4B and I have 32GB of Ram and but Windows 7 ultimate 64 bit only shows 16gb what is going on?


Is the Rampage Extreme IV? If so, that is why I upgraded to the RIVBE, my memory slots were slowly deactivating. I had 32GB of ram and most of the top memory slots didnt work and I was down to 24 GB, then 16GB. And that was not all that was failling, took about 15 min. to load Grid2 so the whole mobo was slowly dying.
Upgrade, you will be happy. I never saw such speed before until I got the RIVBE.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Is the Rampage Extreme IV? If so, that is why I upgraded to the RIVBE, my memory slots were slowly deactivating. I had 32GB of ram and most of the top memory slots didnt work and I was down to 24 GB, then 16GB. And that was not all that was failling, took about 15 min. to load Grid2 so the whole mobo was slowly dying.
> Upgrade, you will be happy. I never saw such speed before until I got the RIVBE.


I have always liked Asus products. I have owned several Asus laptops and numerous Asus motherboards. Unfortunately, I have never owned a Rampage Extreme Edition MB that I did not have to RMA at least one time. I don't know what it is about their Rampage Extreme boards that causes them to turn out so many bad boards, but from reading other posts and my own experiences with them, I purchased a second RIVBE as a spare in an anticipation of problems to come with the RIVBE I have installed.

I agree with you about how great the RIVBE ["speed"] performs and I pray that mine will continue to work the way it has been working. The most reliable Asus mb's I have ever owned is their Deluxe and Sabertooth models. All Asus boards seem to lead their competition in performance and features. That said, I am hopeful that one day they will find away to make their Rampage models more reliable because their is no doubt that when a RIVBE is running as designed, there is no other board that comes even close to performing a like a RIVBE.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I have 4x 4GB memorysticks of Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866 Mhz, 9-9-9-24 and 1,5 volts. I would like to try to tweak these sticks to 2133 Mhz, anyone of you have settings that would work? Or what should I start out with? I would love to get bios-settings. I can also take bios-screenshots if it is needed of my current settings. even though they have been the same all the time (same as the last bios-screenshot I posted here).


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have 4x 4GB memorysticks of Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866 Mhz, 9-9-9-24 and 1,5 volts. I would like to try to tweak these sticks to 2133 Mhz, anyone of you have settings that would work? Or what should I start out with? I would love to get bios-settings. I can also take bios-screenshots if it is needed of my current settings. even though they have been the same all the time (same as the last bios-screenshot I posted here).


Try 10,10,10,27 2T with 1.6v and see. Possibly should work on these timings and speed.

If it don't post try 1.65v, still don't post, go 10,11,10,27.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I have always liked Asus products. I have owned several Asus laptops and numerous Asus motherboards. Unfortunately, I have never owned a Rampage Extreme Edition MB that I did not have to RMA at least one time. I don't know what it is about their Rampage Extreme boards that causes them to turn out so many bad boards, but from reading other posts and my own experiences with them, I purchased a second RIVBE as a spare in an anticipation of problems to come with the RIVBE I have installed.
> 
> I agree with you about how great the RIVBE ["speed"] performs and I pray that mine will continue to work the way it has been working. The most reliable Asus mb's I have ever owned is their Deluxe and Sabertooth models. All Asus boards seem to lead their competition in performance and features. That said, I am hopeful that one day they will find away to make their Rampage models more reliable because their is no doubt that when a RIVBE is running as designed, there is no other board that comes even close to performing a like a RIVBE.


Good morning








RIVE ahhh with the right bios can do some good numbers







BUT I find a lot of RMA is corrupted bios chips , the techs flash it and away it goes . On 2 occaisions I RMA'd board sent away to Sydney for testing ....... comes back no problem with it in first place








But what I discovered recently is my RIVE after it hasnt run for awhile , would power up but not switch on......... has a ambient 15c boot bug , have to put it in the sun for a hour for it to fireup LoooooooL







Thats been the problem the whole time ... go figure


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr iggy*
> 
> Hey I have the RE4B and I have 32GB of Ram and but Windows 7 ultimate 64 bit only shows 16gb what is going on?


You may start by checking your RAM with your memory speed tool in your bios. Make sure all of your ram sticks have an 'ok' status. If you find any running with an 'abnormal' status,, you need to shut down your system, pull the memory stick and put in back in again. Then boot up again to your bios and recheck it under your memory speed tool. If you still find any of your sticks with an 'abnormal' status, shut down your system and remove your cpu from its socket.

After removing your CPU from the socket, inspect your pins to make sure that none of them are bent. A magnifying glass is idea for this task. Be careful not to touch the pins with your fingers or you may end up bending some of your socket pins. If you find some bent pins during your inspection and are not experienced with straightening them, you may want to take your mother board to a computer repair place that is experienced with fixing them.

If you don't have any bent pins on your mother board, you may want to run a memory diagnostic tool to test your memory sticks for any hardware related problems. I suggest using AIDA64 Extreme's memory testing tool but there are many tools for testing memory that you can find either trial versions or shareware versions of.

If your not experiencing hardware problems with your memory, you may try to use Windows 'restore' to restore your operating system back to a time prior to your memory showing its true capacity.

I have seen several posts from people who have experienced what you are describing, In most cases, the problem turned out to be some bent pins on the CPU socket. I did the same thing myself with a Sabertooth board and ended up making a bigger mess by trying to straighten the pins myself. I again caution you not try and bend the pins back yourself, if in case that is the problem, unless you are experienced in fixing them.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Good morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIVE ahhh with the right bios can do some good numbers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT I find a lot of RMA is corrupted bios chips , the techs flash it and away it goes . On 2 occaisions I RMA'd board sent away to Sydney for testing ....... comes back no problem with it in first place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what I discovered recently is my RIVE after it hasnt run for awhile , would power up but not switch on......... has a ambient 15c boot bug , have to put it in the sun for a hour for it to fireup LoooooooL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats been the problem the whole time ... go figure


What a bug....lol Maybe your board just likes to get out and sunbathe occasionally..... With all the great beaches you got 'down under' you may want to take your RIVE or RIVBE out to the beach occasionally for a day in the sun....lol


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> What a bug....lol Maybe your board just likes to get out and sunbathe occasionally..... With all the great beaches you got 'down under' you may want to take your RIVE or RIVBE out to the beach occasionally for a day in the sun....lol


LooooL








Ahh comic relief ............. LoooooL
BTW the beaches are AWESOME . White sand and white pointers ROFL


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Try 10,10,10,27 2T with 1.6v and see. Possibly should work on these timings and speed.
> 
> If it don't post try 1.65v, still don't post, go 10,11,10,27.


When I got home from school today, I tried 10,10,10,27, 2T with 1,6volts, booted up just fine into windows. It seemed like the "original" timings was 9-9-9-27-2 so not that big of a difference. It is set to mode 3 and "nearer" at the bottom option.

I guess there is some kind of programs I should run to see that it is actually stable at that speed? I have to wait a while now anyways, because one of my radiators leaks and have to be replaced.


----------



## dboythagr8

Is there a BE OC guide? Want to finally OC my 4930k. I see there are guides on the ROG forums...but i keep getting a malware warning from Chrome and IE when I try and go there.


----------



## JLMS2010

You can start here.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/2990#post_21451913


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Good morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIVE ahhh with the right bios can do some good numbers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT I find a lot of RMA is corrupted bios chips , the techs flash it and away it goes . On 2 occaisions I RMA'd board sent away to Sydney for testing ....... comes back no problem with it in first place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what I discovered recently is my RIVE after it hasnt run for awhile , would power up but not switch on......... has a ambient 15c boot bug , have to put it in the sun for a hour for it to fireup LoooooooL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats been the problem the whole time ... go figure


I thought RIVE is high end board. High end board not booting at 15 C? That's the same as if Ferrari ff wouldn't start if not pointed to east, and wind will not go from the left direction. Are you sure you don't have LN2 mode activated (or you shouldn't activate LN2 mode)?


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Crap Guide ! Because useing of straps. For 24/7 only offset works fine.

This is the best guide from 8Pack. and you can use it for the BE too.
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18476907


----------



## Kimir

That's not true, strap and fixed vcore works just fine for everyday as well, it's just not your taste.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

I think you're right. But in energy efficiency view is better offset as fixed Vcore.
So therefore better for 24/7 use.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

And that was reason enough to call cadaveca's stable settings post a 'Crap guide!'


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

I apologize for the choice of words! Sorry !


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> And that was reason enough to call cadaveca's stable settings post a 'Crap guide!'


Either way you deliver mV to the CPU, it don't matter. The upside is.. you have choices. Mostly. Right now, 125 and 166 strap are not compatible with Offset overclocking.

Offfset "guide":

http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/640#post_21674429


----------



## Mega Man

Really you may save enough to buy a light bulb at the end of the year.

Remember amps (what you pay for) are pushed not pulled. It will only use what it needs


----------



## Cyber Locc

Sign me up. Got to wait a week or 2 for a proc but got the board so here is a pic of that











And luna from az too I see







I was born and raised in south phoenix







live in showlow now tho.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Really you may save enough to buy a light bulb at the end of the year.
> Remember amps (what you pay for) are pushed not pulled. It will only use what it needs


Yeah - one of those crp fluorescent ones too.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I thought RIVE is high end board. High end board not booting at 15 C? That's the same as if Ferrari ff wouldn't start if not pointed to east, and wind will not go from the left direction. Are you sure you don't have LN2 mode activated (or you shouldn't activate LN2 mode)?


Honestly you must think that im an idiot , and quite frankly most of your posts are very negative . I suggest you do your sig and dont answer my posts ok


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Really you may save enough to buy a light bulb at the end of the year.
> 
> Remember amps (what you pay for) are pushed not pulled. It will only use what it needs


There is something to be said about sustaining a higher idle clock, but as you say, it's a very very small difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> The upside is.. you have choices. Mostly. Right now, 125 and 166 strap are not compatible with Offset overclocking.


Right, and the only way to run memory @ 2666 is...

ROFL.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> There is something to be said about sustaining a higher idle clock, but as you say, it's a very very small difference.
> *Right, and the only way to run memory @ 2666 is...*
> ROFL.


overvolt the IMC?









use 166 strap of course!


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> overvolt the IMC?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> use 166 strap of course!


na, not talking about IMC, only way to run 2666 and more is to use strap. That's what he meant, I guess.









Let but this all behind, x99 is coming, who's ready to make the Rampage V Extreme owner club?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> na, not talking about IMC, only way to run 2666 and more is to use strap. That's what he meant, I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let but this all behind, x99 is coming, who's ready to make the *Rampage V Extreme* owner club?


I'm gonna let the bugs shake out, and ddr4 to be meaningful with low latencies before buying in.

anyway - only time I really use fixed vcore is for benchmarking. otherwise 4.7GHz offset (1.344 load... +5/+64 mV)) 2400c9T1. Pretty snappy.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Honestly you must think that im an idiot , and quite frankly most of your posts are very negative . I suggest you do your sig and dont answer my posts ok


"ignore"


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Great, I've already done this two months ago, now you have one more on your list. Congratulation !


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I'm gonna let the bugs shake out, and ddr4 to be meaningful with low latencies before buying in.
> 
> anyway - only time I really use fixed vcore is for benchmarking. *otherwise 4.7GHz offset (1.344 load.*.. +5/+64 mV)) 2400c9T1. Pretty snappy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sounds like you got a good chip there.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Sounds like you got a good chip there.


probably only slightly above the average... it's been abused.









say - that 2666 ram thing with tCCD=0, giving some instability under stress that is not present with it set @ 1.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> probably only slightly above the average... it's been abused.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> say - that 2666 ram thing with tCCD=0, giving some instability under stress that is not present with it set @ 1.


try more VCCSA or vDIMM. For me, vDIMM worked (otherwise I ran @ 1.6V for 2666).

Or, forget the bandwidth increase.









Pushing ram hard on IVB_E isn't always easy, that's for sure. Easier than SNB-E, and definitely easiest with this board.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> try more VCCSA or vDIMM. For me, vDIMM worked (otherwise I ran @ 1.6V for 2666).
> 
> Or, forget the bandwidth increase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pushing ram hard on IVB_E isn't always easy, that's for sure. Easier than SNB-E, and definitely easiest with this board.


or... run 2400 and offset.







lol.

so far, can't really achieve any advantage with 2666c11 vs 2400c9 with this cpu (FM physics, sisoft)


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> or... run 2400 and offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol.


ROFL, yeah, that too. But what's the fun in that, SPI32M is so sloooowww....


----------



## JLMS2010

You guys have any thoughts on my write speed?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> You guys have any thoughts on my write speed?


That is *THE* 100bclk-2400 borked memory divider. No solid remedy except to cause a retraining of the IMC with a clock-gen reset or clrcmos then reload. It's a real PIA and ASUS is doing nothing about it. Which bios are you using?


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> That is *THE* 100bclk-2400 borked memory divider. No solid remedy except to cause a retraining of the IMC with a clock-gen reset or clrcmos then reload. It's a real PIA and ASUS is doing nothing about it. Which bios are you using?


Ah well that makes sense then. I'm on 0801 now.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I'm gonna let the bugs shake out, and ddr4 to be meaningful with low latencies before buying in.
> 
> anyway - only time I really use fixed vcore is for benchmarking. otherwise 4.7GHz offset (1.344 load... +5/+64 mV)) 2400c9T1. Pretty snappy.


Can I please see a bios shot of your extreme tweaker screen under those settings?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> That is *THE* 100bclk-2400 borked memory divider. No solid remedy except to cause a retraining of the IMC with a clock-gen reset or clrcmos then reload. It's a real PIA and ASUS is doing nothing about it. Which bios are you using?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Ah well that makes sense then. I'm on 0801 now.


Yeah, you gotta clear the CMOS, and re-do all settings to get it to work right. Once you see that happen, nothing will really help permanently until you clear the CMOS, I have found. But...if you do manage to get it set up right, and are providing enough load line and VCSSA voltage, it's level out and stay there. I don't blame ASUS here...I think it's an Intel thing, as you can find the same sort of thing on other boards, and other platforms, too, when using the highest divider.

I'll also gladly blame the low refresh rate, it should be set to 9360, iirc. I'd also lower tref down to 171 of those are 4 GB sticks, or take a look at MrTooShort's timings, which I think might be with 2 GB sticks...but maybe not.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Can I please see a bios shot of your extreme tweaker screen under those settings?


are you asking for this:



"be advised"... even if you had the same exact ram kit, it does not mean the same settings will work. 1.660V


----------



## V3teran

I was playing Farcry 3 which caused my machine to hard crash but now its stuck in a bootloop which i cannot seem to escape from.
I cant even reach the bios, any ideas?


----------



## V3teran

I fixed it, i reset cmos, took out battery and turned off from wall socket for 5 mins. rebooted and all is ok.
Thats what happens when you have to mod broken games like Fc3 to get them to run smoothly.
I think i will now give away my Uplay account just like i did with my BF4 + Premium account, cba with broken shoddy titles anymore.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> I fixed it, i reset cmos, took out battery and turned off from wall socket for 5 mins. rebooted and all is ok.
> Thats what happens when you have to mod broken games like Fc3 to get them to run smoothly.
> I think i will now give away my Uplay account just like i did with my BF4 + Premium account, cba with broken shoddy titles anymore.


probably only needed to clrcmos. NOt really necessary to remove the battery etc, unless it's really in trouble.


----------



## V3teran

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> probably only needed to clrcmos. NOt really necessary to remove the battery etc, unless it's really in trouble.


Yeah i did just clear the cmos at first but still was caught in an infinite loop, hence the removal of the battery.


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> You guys have any thoughts on my write speed?


I made a thread here can you post in it?
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46486-X79-BIOS-bug-might-affect-all-x79-boards&country=&status=

I figure the more people that b!tch about it the better ^^


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> false
> Yeah i did just clear the cmos at first but still was caught in an infinite loop, hence the removal of the battery.


whoa - seriously borked up.


----------



## Kimir

They just don't care at this point, I mean x79 is 2011 (the year, not the socket) and their hands are full with z97 and now x99 who's just showing up.
Not to mention it might not be something fixable in uefi, who knows really. it's not like x79 is supposed to support 2400Mhz to begin with.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

They still should be offering support and fixes via BIOS updates for a long time to come on a $500 'flagship' board they debuted less than a year ago regardless of the socket.


----------



## Kimir

The BE is just a refresh of the RIVE and until now both board have receive bios update, the old RIVE included...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> *The BE is just a refresh of the RIVE* and until now both board have receive bios update, the old RIVE included...


That's not how ASUS billed the board as. They made sure to stipulate the RIVBE was NOT a refresh of the RIVE. It was supposedly created all new from the ground up by the entire ROG team that spent half a year on design and testing of just this one board, compared to their developing 5 different Z87 boards in the same amount of time just before that.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's not how ASUS billed the board as. They made sure to stipulate the RIVBE was NOT a refresh of the RIVE. It was supposedly created all new from the ground up by the entire ROG team that spent half a year on design and testing of just this one board, compared to their developing 5 different Z87 boards in the same amount of time just before that.


I agree, the BE is really FASTER than my old RIVE in all respects. We will see if it lasts longer though. Bought mine in April.


----------



## V3teran

Yeah i almost crapped myself, thought the CPU had died or something. That was playing Farcry 3 with .ini tweaks, ****ed my game right up. Ive since given the game and Uplay account away with other games


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's not how ASUS billed the board as. They made sure to stipulate the RIVBE was NOT a refresh of the RIVE. It was supposedly created all new from the ground up by the entire ROG team that spent half a year on design and testing of just this one board, compared to their developing 5 different Z87 boards in the same amount of time just before that.


Yep, and that is also why settings from past products won't always work with the RIVBE, making any guides given for the RIVE, at best, educational, and nearly worthless, when it comes time to OC memory, since even ES and retail boards are a bit different in memory circuit design, requiring a different approach to OC compared to the older RIVE. That's why I won't recommend any guide given for the RIVE.


----------



## Shadowarez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Yeah i almost crapped myself, thought the CPU had died or something. That was playing Farcry 3 with .ini tweaks, ****ed my game right up. Ive since given the game and Uplay account away with other games


did same thing when I got my Rive be played game got few lvls in hated what had to do just to make it playable. Gave away account.


----------



## V3teran

Tbh im started to regret ever buying the Rampage 4 Black as personally its the worst motherboard i have ever owned. Its know stuck in an infinite bootloop. It all started with Far cry 3 crashing out my system but know it dont matter what game i play, while im playing i get a black screen followed by an infinite bootloop which i have to reset the cmos to get out of. I should not have to do this, on my old x58 i never had to touch the cmos button and i pushed it much further than this overated black edition.

I dont know what the problem is, does anyone have any ideas?


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Tbh im started to regret ever buying the Rampage 4 Black as personally its the worst motherboard i have ever owned. Its know stuck in an infinite bootloop. It all started with Far cry 3 crashing out my system but know it dont matter what game i play, while im playing i get a black screen followed by an infinite bootloop which i have to reset the cmos to get out of. I should not have to do this, on my old x58 i never had to touch the cmos button and i pushed it much further than this overated black edition.
> 
> I dont know what the problem is, does anyone have any ideas?


Try re-flashing the bios...


----------



## reev3r

Sad to see all of the negative posts surrounding the R4BE, I have had nothing but foot experiences with this board, despite my initial concerns surrounding a board with so much crammed into it... lol

That being said... I do have a very real concern, and it is regarding Asus in general, not just this board...

The stupid short length of the cable for the OC Panel! I NEED to pull the panel from my case, as I am getting a dual bay res for my cooling loop, and I currently have only a single slot available. So, with that in mind I have resolved to put the panel on my desk so that I can actually use it. However, since Asus made the stupid decision to make the cable exactly short enough to be mostly useless to anybody that doesn't live eight inches from the R motherboard, I NEED to extend the cable. So if anybody has any suggestions on this it would be greatly appreciated...

Maybe I can get in touch with someone at Asus and have them just cut the cable a bit late on the assembly line so they can make me a long one... lol

I will also be making a thread on this, since I can not find anything about it elsewhere...

Thanks!!!


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Tbh im started to regret ever buying the Rampage 4 Black as personally its the worst motherboard i have ever owned. Its know stuck in an infinite bootloop. It all started with Far cry 3 crashing out my system but know it dont matter what game i play, while im playing i get a black screen followed by an infinite bootloop which i have to reset the cmos to get out of. I should not have to do this, on my old x58 i never had to touch the cmos button and i pushed it much further than this overated black edition.
> 
> I dont know what the problem is, does anyone have any ideas?


My guess would be either memory or cpu.

Cpu wise it could be overheating or the voltage is to low.
When testing the cpu, and if you come across an error, reset the cmos and try again...
Had issues with my amd ch4f like that, where I'de hit an error related to my vcore being to low and I'de reset, increase it and try again and it the prob would never go away, until the cmos was reset and the vcore was set higher...
That thing threw me for a loop for probably 4 months...(ch4f)

In short try stock speeds and voltages (do not use auto...!!!!).

Memory wise, you could try 1 stick, sure it'll be alot slower but it's still good enough for fc3...

Make sure to reset the cmos and do not load a cmos profile, you troubles could be saved in those so that's why I'm saying stay away from it, if you need take some pics of the bios to remember your settings.
Use the cmos profiles for messing around(you don't use those for 24/7...) and for 24/7 configs, ones you know for sure are 100%.

As for the worst mobo ever, nah...
I've had worse (... ch4f, bsod's to this day, I came across a ms usb patch to fix the bsod though just haven't got to test it yet).

Audio is kind of a joke though, but it's ok'ish.
Just wish they would fix some of these bugs already...
Though it hasn't redid (on it's own...) my boot order in about a month now, knock on wood...

I like it, for sure, best perf I've ever had, way way better then amd (literally 2-4x faster in just about every regard).

Oh yeah, just loking at it for a sec, and I just remembered, the bios bug where you can't off the lights lmao.
Oh man...
*** asus, gotta love there support..., nah I like asus though, there isn't much of an alt.
Off topic wise, they should bundle some asus fan stickers with there boards.
Maybe I should shutup...

Oui sorry for the typos I'm kinda groggy.

Edit:
@reev3r
Get some 22-20 awg copper cable and make one yourself ^^







.
Just use some old spare connecters though and leave the original be just in case and for ref.
I honestly don't know why you'de even used that thing, eh it's eye candy I guess but that's about it.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I honestly don't know why you'de even used that thing, eh it's eye candy I guess but that's about it.


Oh, man, it's super-useful for GPUTweak use, and I use it often to watch POST codes when playing with memory since my rig sits under my desk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> Try re-flashing the bios...


+rep.


----------



## V3teran

Thanks for the advice guys. I reflashed the bios and also downgraded the bios from 801 to 602. I was now able to reboot into windows and by using some settings by JPMboy ive been able to get stability at 4.6ghz using the offset settings in the bios.

I do have 3 questions though if you dont mind.....

1. Im going to run memtest overnight...."Is it best to run memtest at my memorys maximum speed of 2133 or run it at stock 1333mhz?

2. When i change the bios settings on the motherboard and press f10 the motherboard reboots and shutdown, but then it will start backup and load into windows correctly. Is this normal for the mobo to restart more than once sometimes when applying bios changes?

3. Im now running Prime 95 at default setting and its running fine but 1 of the workers has stopped it says "tortue test completed 2 tests in 7 mins-1 error"
Prime is still running and producing alot of heat on all other workers, has prime failed because 1 worked has stopped or is this nbrmal?

I just want to make sure that i dont have any faulty hardware.
Thankyou.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> My guess would be either memory or cpu.
> 
> Cpu wise it could be overheating or the voltage is to low.
> When testing the cpu, and if you come across an error, reset the cmos and try again...
> Had issues with my amd ch4f like that, where I'de hit an error related to my vcore being to low and I'de reset, increase it and try again and it the prob would never go away, until the cmos was reset and the vcore was set higher...
> That thing threw me for a loop for probably 4 months...(ch4f)
> 
> In short try stock speeds and voltages (do not use auto...!!!!).
> 
> Memory wise, you could try 1 stick, sure it'll be alot slower but it's still good enough for fc3...
> 
> Make sure to reset the cmos and do not load a cmos profile, you troubles could be saved in those so that's why I'm saying stay away from it, if you need take some pics of the bios to remember your settings.
> Use the cmos profiles for messing around(you don't use those for 24/7...) and for 24/7 configs, ones you know for sure are 100%.
> 
> As for the worst mobo ever, nah...
> I've had worse (... ch4f, bsod's to this day, I came across a ms usb patch to fix the bsod though just haven't got to test it yet).
> 
> Audio is kind of a joke though, but it's ok'ish.
> Just wish they would fix some of these bugs already...
> Though it hasn't redid (on it's own...) my boot order in about a month now, knock on wood...
> 
> I like it, for sure, best perf I've ever had, way way better then amd (literally 2-4x faster in just about every regard).
> 
> Oh yeah, just loking at it for a sec, and I just remembered, the bios bug where you can't off the lights lmao.
> Oh man...
> *** asus, gotta love there support..., nah I like asus though, there isn't much of an alt.
> Off topic wise, they should bundle some asus fan stickers with there boards.
> Maybe I should shutup...
> 
> Oui sorry for the typos I'm kinda groggy.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> @reev3r
> Get some 22-20 awg copper cable and make one yourself ^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Just use some *old spare connecters* though and leave the original be just in case and for ref.
> I honestly don't know why you'de even used that thing, eh it's eye candy I guess but that's about it.


Where would you get "_old spare connecters_" like that? Is there someplace to buy just the OC Panel cable? I gave it a cursory google and I came up empty.

The OC Panel uses connecters on either end I'm unfamiliar with, except that that it has dupont-style pins on the mobo end connecter. On the mobo side it's a USB 2.0 connecter of sorts except larger with another additional 8 pins added to it. The other end is completely different, much smaller than standard 0.1" dupont header spacing. I have no idea what style connecter / pins it uses.

I guess if you know what connecters/pins it uses on both ends or can get a spare cable to cannibalize them from that might be the way to go, but barring that if I needed that OC panel somewhere the stock cable wouldn't reach I'd just slit that sleeving off the cable and solder in some 22 / 26 gauge wire extensions however long I needed.

Or, I suppose if that sounds too scary instead you could get an assortment of pre-crimped jumpers like these and use them as an extension of sorts on the mobo end, making sure to plug them up correctly on either end between the OC cable and the mobo header.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I remember this topic brought up before concerning the o/c panel cable , don't think Asus addressed this but I don't have that problem with desk/chillputer ...... no case to hold me back


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> Edit: @reev3r
> 
> Get some 22-20 awg copper cable and make one yourself ^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Just use some old spare connecters though and leave the original be just in case and for ref.
> I honestly don't know why you'de even used that thing, eh it's eye candy I guess but that's about it.


In doing some checking, I have decided that I will just pry the pins out, which ends up being very, very easily done to my surprise! Then solder some Ethernet cables to it, since there is a total of sixteen connectors, and Ethernet has 8, I'll just use 2x Ethernet cables for it, I plan to sleeve the cable anyway, so it will work out quite well for me!

With regards to using it, I will be able to monitor temps in my liquid cooling loop by getting some probes and connecting them to the mobo. Instead of buying some additional accessory I have no space for, or using software, I always prefer to have hardware for a task when possible. Just a personal preference though.

Thank you for the suggestion though. I was pretty sure that the connectors were not reusable, and although the pins are not (any ideas where to get those, anybody), the plastic bodies are! Yay.

Thanks again for the assist everyone. If anybody needs to extend theirs, it turns out to be relatively easy, especially if you have the pins.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> In doing some checking, I have decided that I will just pry the pins out, which ends up being very, very easily done to my surprise! Then solder some Ethernet cables to it, since there is a total of sixteen connectors, and Ethernet has 8, I'll just use 2x Ethernet cables for it, I plan to sleeve the cable anyway, so it will work out quite well for me!
> 
> With regards to using it, I will be able to monitor temps in my liquid cooling loop by getting some probes and connecting them to the mobo. Instead of buying some additional accessory I have no space for, or using software, I always prefer to have hardware for a task when possible. Just a personal preference though.
> 
> Thank you for the suggestion though. I was pretty sure that the connectors were not reusable, and although the *pins are not (any ideas where to get those, anybody)*, the plastic bodies are! Yay.
> 
> Thanks again for the assist everyone. If anybody needs to extend theirs, it turns out to be relatively easy, especially if you have the pins.


The mobo end of the cable has a dupont-style connecter / terminals
http://www.harwin.com/products/M20-1180042/
http://www.harwin.com/products/M20-1180046/
http://www.moddiy.com/products/2.54mm-Dupont-Connector-Pins-%28Female%29.html

I'll go on the record though as saying that I don't think using ethernet cables as an extension is going to work out so well. The stock cable looks to use 26 AWG wire. You'd probably be best to use that or 22 AWG wire for an extension.


----------



## NEOAethyr

You guys can get spare connecters and pins from old usb, firewire, and audio header connecters.
Oh and 2 pin ver's from old led's and power/reset connecters.

Just make darned sure you wire it up exact, and watch for stoppers (like those on audio/usb and etc), I mean those connecters with no hole in a spot.
I've made my own connecters in the past, it's not hard... you just gotta make sure you wire it up exact.

Any old wire will do too, but preferably you'de want to use copper, alu just grabs a ton of noise from anywhere it can.
Aluminum will do for the short term.

Oh and the pins, you can get those form the connecters, you just need either a pin, zakto knife or steak knife to get them out, a small swiss knife would work too.
They have a litter notch hook thing on one side, you just push that in and the pin slides right out.
And when you're ready to put it in a new connecter, you pull that notch thing out a bit and it'll click right in the connecter.
It's the same thing as making psu cables, though you don't have to discharge anything... (then again these days with module psu's you don't either...).

Just a heads up, if you're going for broke and trying for wr's, don't use aluminum for anything.
Every little thing counts, they add up, eventually...
Kinda reminds me now, I need to get a batch of ferrite snap on beads for my psu...

And to be honest, I haven't actually looked at the cables the oc panel uses.
I think they may of had some tiny pins on the oc panel it's self.
Can't remember for sure but, just reading some of the posts above make me think.
Those I don't know where to get, you could get from old laptops maybe, if you're lucky.

But either way, if that's the case, you'de have to make an extension cable.
With a male end that plugs into the original cable.
You can get those from asus boards from the io connector ez plug thingy lol.
But those are kinda rare, I only have a few of those myself.
They must have something like that on ebay though.
Have no idea what they might be called.

@V3teran
I can't recommend memtest, it's so old and slow I just can't recommend it.
Failing prime is probably not good, either that or it's an old ver or something.

When saving and exiting the bios, yeah it's normal to have it do a power cycle like that.
Mine doesn't do much of that anymore, don't know why, but ohwell







(it'll do it on things like bclk changes...).

Just start from stock, 1866 mem and etc.
And do some testing, if it passes move on to one thing at a time and check 'em.
Until you get a 24/7 config that is pretty much tweaked to the max except maybe the 2nd and 3rd mem timings for example (that's how mine is right now, I left the pwm alone pretty much except for what was needed to pass tests).

I recommend linx or ibt as a quick test, mainly for the cpu.
Default btw, there's no need to addd more passes or more mem to test in those progs.
It won't do you any good, I've tried... both at 14hrs+.
The most stressfull app I've found for cpu testing so far is watch dogs, about a half hour or so is all that's needed to find out if the vcore is a tad to low or not.
When every other game and app is sayign it's stable, watchdogs will tell you if it's good or not.

As for mem, I don't know, I'de say test everything.
Sucks because testing every game and app takes forever, but I don't have any other advice when it comes to that.

My 1st test, well when I 1st got the board, was Batman Arkham Origins, 2hrs of it.
And that got old so fast...
But it was a pretty good test.

If you're trying to quick check the mem, I'de recommend gaming benchs and 3d benches.
And just run them all, if it passes, then it "might be ok".

I went straight for 2400 from the get go, well after the 1st time installing windows that is.
It was pretty easy to get.
I imagine that 2133mhz would be easy peasy.

Anyways make a new text on your desktop and take note of what tests you've passed, and everytime you make a change, you go back through them one at a time.
I've told ya how to do the cpu, the mem part, well once you got it to a point were you want it, just leave it and verify it 100% the best you can, save that as a cmos profile to work off from and improve.
Don't save over it until you are absolutely sure it's ok to do so.
Because you're gonna have to back track alot when you're testing...

I haven't really messed with mine that much, still gotta get my 2nd vga card in then I can put my side panel on which has all my fans on it.
Then I can max my pwm freq's and llc stuff and have some fun







.
I've gotten 2600+mhz mem stable (115bclk, 2400 div), 100% stable, I can't really mess with 2800 until I get some fans on it.
My mem gets volt hungry.
I like it though, benches 2600 cas9 (wants more volts though, to much without fans for me).
Stable at 10 stock 1.65v.
I'de like to see the real perf of cas9 2600 but that freaking bclk mem div bug I can't get past on the newer bios'es.
I have to back track and figure out which bios screwed up my odd bug fix at higher bclks (works at 100, but not at 110 or 115 like it used to).
One thing I noticed a ways back, just using a higher bclk lower dpc latency by a huge amount.
I'de be running it right now cas10 anyways, 115mhz bclk 2600+ mem, but asus won't fix the darned bug.
It's the dpc latency I really want, the rest is just bragging rights and piece of mind.
When everything is 3-4 times snappier then what it was at 100mhz bclk..., I wish I could be running it right now.
I mean, I don't use my bug fix unless I'm messing around benching or testing.
24/7 I'm just like bleh, watch porn lol,m kinda, you the idea, I just use the darned thing.
Knowing in the back of my head, the board is ruffly is running maybe 60% of the perf it's supposed to be at.
Gotta dust this thing out soon, without the side panel on, I got these clumps of dust all over in it :\.
Need to get myself a house filter thing or something...


----------



## Mega Man

I have all the connectors at home.

It looks like they combine 2 of the wires (board has 20 (going off of memory) and oc panel has 19
imo an extension would be easier.

Iirc the one on the OC panel is a usb3 header conector the one on the board is a 20pin (10x2) 2.54 dupont.

Remember one side of the header on the board is just a usb connector.

Also iirc both connectors are reusable


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The mobo end of the cable has a dupont-style connecter / terminals
> http://www.harwin.com/products/M20-1180042/
> http://www.harwin.com/products/M20-1180046/
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/2.54mm-Dupont-Connector-Pins-%28Female%29.html
> 
> I'll go on the record though as saying that I don't think using ethernet cables as an extension is going to work out so well. The stock cable looks to use 26 AWG wire. You'd probably be best to use that or 22 AWG wire for an extension.


Kind of funny, I had just finished sending moddiy a message asking about an extension, since USB 3.0 uses a similar connector... lol

As for using a different wire, May I ask why you feel it will not work? I used to do low voltage work professionally, and I really see no reason as to why Ethernet is not a perfectly reasonable cable to use.

My reasons for this belief are very sound, I feel, and although I could be way off base, the gauge is perfectly within your range there, given they seem to have used ~26, and Ethernet is 24, as well as the fact that I am using shielded Ethernet, and on top of that, Cat5e is a twisted pair configuration, with ~3.8-4.9 twists per inch (depending upon the pair) to reduce crosstalk, and although I can not tell for certain at the moment, it does not appear that theirs are twisted pair, nor are their wires made of Cu, but instead something else, my current guess is either Al, or an Al-alloy, meaning that it is almost assuredly less conductive, since in Ethernet, Cu is ubiquitous...

Again, these are just my observations on the matter, perhaps they went crazy and made their wires out of silver, but I am guessing not.

If I am even remotely incorrect regarding any of this, please let me know, I would truly hate to have assembled this and find I am getting interference, or that the wires have burned up from being too thin...

Thank you!


----------



## NEOAethyr

I think ethernet cable would be fine.
I'm just a perfectionist myself, so I'de end up going to the store to by some ofc copper of some sort.
But as a hack job, most definitely, I'de use the ethernet cable for sure, and I'm sure it would be fine for a long time to come.
And I highly doubt it need to be anything special, the wires are small as it is, it's just data stuff.

If it's silver color btw it's alu, real oxygen free silver wire is insanely expensive (I looked it up for a psu mod along time ago lol).


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Thanks for the advice guys. I reflashed the bios and also downgraded the bios from 801 to 602. I was now able to reboot into windows and by using some settings by JPMboy ive been able to get stability at 4.6ghz using the offset settings in the bios.
> 
> I do have 3 questions though if you dont mind.....
> 
> 1. Im going to run memtest overnight...."Is it best to run memtest at my memorys maximum speed of 2133 or run it at stock 1333mhz?
> 
> 2. When i change the bios settings on the motherboard and press f10 the motherboard reboots and shutdown, but then it will start backup and load into windows correctly. Is this normal for the mobo to restart more than once sometimes when applying bios changes?
> 
> 3. Im now running Prime 95 at default setting and its running fine but 1 of the workers has stopped it says "tortue test completed 2 tests in 7 mins-1 error"
> Prime is still running and producing alot of heat on all other workers, has prime failed because 1 worked has stopped or is this nbrmal?
> 
> I just want to make sure that i dont have any faulty hardware.
> Thankyou.


1. run memtest at the rated speed, timings and voltage to test the sticks. run it at the memory OC if you do one.
2. that's a "clock-gen reset". it will occur after a clrcmos or a change in strap (and bclk ~ >0.5. Or.... when your settings will set teh cpu frequency to 4.5 or lower if you had >4.5 active at post. and vis-versa
3. if a worker fails in p95, the system is not stable. run p95 like: check "custom", set FFT time to 5 min per FFT. Set ram amount to 12288/16GB or at least 50% of your ram amount. if you are running 1.3V or higher under p95 load, I personally do not let temps exceed 60C. lower your clocks and voltage or get better cooling.

if you are using offset OC, add 4mV to turbo voltage if a worker fails, reboot and run it again, only need 20min to 1h of p95 with the above settings for a gaming rig.

here's a good OS-based memory test... open an instance for each core (so 6 instances for IB-E







)

MemTest.zip 13k .zip file


MemTestPro.zip 15k .zip file


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> You guys can get spare connecters and pins from old usb, firewire, and audio header connecters.
> Oh and 2 pin ver's from old led's and power/reset connecters.
> 
> Just make darned sure you wire it up exact, and watch for stoppers (like those on audio/usb and etc), I mean those connecters with no hole in a spot.
> I've made my own connecters in the past, it's not hard... you just gotta make sure you wire it up exact.
> 
> Any old wire will do too, but preferably you'de want to use copper, alu just grabs a ton of noise from anywhere it can.
> Aluminum will do for the short term.
> 
> Oh and the pins, you can get those form the connecters, you just need either a pin, zakto knife or steak knife to get them out, a small swiss knife would work too.
> They have a litter notch hook thing on one side, you just push that in and the pin slides right out.
> And when you're ready to put it in a new connecter, you pull that notch thing out a bit and it'll click right in the connecter.
> It's the same thing as making psu cables, though you don't have to discharge anything... (then again these days with module psu's you don't either...).
> 
> Just a heads up, if you're going for broke and trying for wr's, don't use aluminum for anything.
> Every little thing counts, they add up, eventually...
> Kinda reminds me now, I need to get a batch of ferrite snap on beads for my psu...
> 
> And to be honest, I haven't actually looked at the cables the oc panel uses.
> I think they may of had some tiny pins on the oc panel it's self.
> Can't remember for sure but, just reading some of the posts above make me think.
> Those I don't know where to get, you could get from old laptops maybe, if you're lucky.
> 
> But either way, if that's the case, you'de have to make an extension cable.
> With a male end that plugs into the original cable.
> You can get those from asus boards from the io connector ez plug thingy lol.
> But those are kinda rare, I only have a few of those myself.
> They must have something like that on ebay though.
> Have no idea what they might be called.


I truly despise reusing old pins. They are not only a giant PITA to get off of the wires, but you run the risk of breaking them when re-crimping, I have abandoned more than one project after attempting to use pins again... lol I would much, much rather spend the 0.09¢ea. to buy more than to try and reuse them... Just a personal thing...

As for the connector, it is a 20 pin connector, very much like the USB 3.0 header plug, in fact, it will actually plug right in, and as mentioned previously, it is a DuPont connector, however, in looking at it before, I thought that it was a single use connector, but after doing some reading, I am actually in the midst of disassembly now. Actually very excited about it, because I will just crimp it together for now, and once my pins get here, I will just make a completely new cable for it, sleeved and all, well, that is, once I order my sleevingbut it will be very easy to just disconnect it and run the sleeve over it and reconnect it...

Thank you very kindly for the help though! One of these days I am going to get some rep for lending an assist... I have a ridiculous amount of knowledge in my brain, but for some reason I NEVER get notified fast enough, it is always hours later!


----------



## NEOAethyr

@reev3r
Just make double sure you get it right though.
And ohm meter comes in handy when doing things like this (though these are a bit to small for that).
Another trick is to do 1 wire at a time, so you know exactly where it goes.

Anyways I can't see exactly what you are doing but I wanna make sure you are careful and don't screw up







, one slip up and god knows what will happen.

Offtopic...
I once screwed up on a wiring job on a psu, one cable...
I had it hooked to a 400 gig seagate ide drive.
I had the 12v and 5v swapped.
Killed the drive, temp like.
I looked at the damage, figured if I popped off those cap looking things it might just work, but it would never see 5v again.
Sure enough it did work oddly enough, and it was just a hair quicker too.
Funny mod story, but it wasn't on purpose, and I sure as heck won't be trying it again lol







.
I still have the drive too, it's just sitting in my living room with my lanparty ultra b and the parts that went with that rig.
I had it hooked to the tv out there for company, I hadn't used it for along time now, and my cat pee'ed all over it, I did get that case cleaned out but the drive and psu are pretty bad :\.
I think he got the corner of the mobo too, but it's not that bad, nothing really to clean up.
Board needs new caps so I was taking it offline when I noticed he wizzed all over it lol.




Yeah It's definitely a mess that needs to be cleaned up...
In the bg, that vga is a gainward golden sample 6800 gt, bios strapped to a quadro fx 4000, and the mem is a 512m stick of munchkin bh5, and the other is a utt 512m.
The cpu on that specific board is a mobile xp 2600 bios modded into a mp.
Well actually I think it has a stock bios on it right now because of the sata rom issue on my modded bios (something that blew past me and I didn't realize I had screw up on).
I needed a dvdrom at one point so I put a stock bios on it if I remember right, never did get around to fixing it, because the board needs all new caps for the chemicons that goto the cpu, every one of those went.
Still boots and everything I just don't wanna mess with it anymore until I get new caps on it.
Sometime or another I'll get to it.

Anyways the drive, so can see how nasty that is.., needs an sos pad job lol.
Anyways the pcb on it, there's a missing black part thing, looks like a tat cap.
Still works like I said.


----------



## Clos

Do you guys know where i can get another amd crossfire cable? I can't find my black rog one that came with this board







My second gpu comes in tomorrow.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> Do you guys know where i can get another amd crossfire cable? I can't find my black rog one that came with this board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My second gpu comes in tomorrow.


Here ya go:

http://us.estore.asus.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4812

Make sure to check length!!!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> @reev3r
> Just make double sure you get it right though.
> And ohm meter comes in handy when doing things like this (though these are a bit to small for that).
> Another trick is to do 1 wire at a time, so you know exactly where it goes.
> 
> Anyways I can't see exactly what you are doing but I wanna make sure you are careful and don't screw up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , one slip up and god knows what will happen.
> 
> Offtopic...
> I once screwed up on a wiring job on a psu, one cable...
> I had it hooked to a 400 gig seagate ide drive.
> I had the 12v and 5v swapped.
> Killed the drive, temp like.
> I looked at the damage, figured if I popped off those cap looking things it might just work, but it would never see 5v again.
> Sure enough it did work oddly enough, and it was just a hair quicker too.
> Funny mod story, but it wasn't on purpose, and I sure as heck won't be trying it again lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I still have the drive too, it's just sitting in my living room with my lanparty ultra b and the parts that went with that rig.
> I had it hooked to the tv out there for company, I hadn't used it for along time now, and my cat pee'ed all over it, I did get that case cleaned out but the drive and psu are pretty bad :\.
> I think he got the corner of the mobo too, but it's not that bad, nothing really to clean up.
> Board needs new caps so I was taking it offline when I noticed he wizzed all over it lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah It's definitely a mess that needs to be cleaned up...
> In the bg, that vga is a gainward golden sample 6800 gt, bios strapped to a quadro fx 4000, and the mem is a 512m stick of munchkin bh5, and the other is a utt 512m.
> The cpu on that specific board is a mobile xp 2600 bios modded into a mp.
> Well actually I think it has a stock bios on it right now because of the sata rom issue on my modded bios (something that blew past me and I didn't realize I had screw up on).
> I needed a dvdrom at one point so I put a stock bios on it if I remember right, never did get around to fixing it, because the board needs all new caps for the chemicons that goto the cpu, every one of those went.
> Still boots and everything I just don't wanna mess with it anymore until I get new caps on it.
> Sometime or another I'll get to it.
> 
> Anyways the drive, so can see how nasty that is.., needs an sos pad job lol.
> Anyways the pcb on it, there's a missing black part thing, looks like a tat cap.
> Still works like I said.


I have been doing mods, and especially low voltage work for the better part of 16 years now, and I have never once botched a wiring... lol I must have come off like a noob with my question, unfortunately I have never had to buy new connectors, I always just splice into the old ones, but my mods have always been very much on the quick and dirty, ham fisted use the force (Mass x acceleration=force) sort of mods, so never pretty... However, lately, in my old age I suppose, I have a keen eye for how NOT clean things look, and, well, doing things right is becoming an OCD effort on my part, even down to the dust I find on my keyboard, talk about anal retentive, my procedure when using my gaming rig, Wake computer from sleep>notice dust on keyboard>begin dusting>random happenings on computer>shut computer down>dust keyboard>boot computer>start gaming>notice dust on mouse/mouse pad>pause game>clean mouse>clean mouse pad>shut computer down due to frustration>sad face because of no gaming>internal nerd rage>satisfied that I did not throw my $130 keyboard across the room again>go to bed.

So, there is that... lol I actually took the time, as per usual, to draw a map of the wires, so that I am able to reference it again later when reassembling the connector. I also take the time to label the cables, so that I know which side they go to. For instance, on this one there are two USB wired connectors, but I do not know if they actually carry USB signal data, so I made sure to label which side they go to, so as to prevent problems later on.

As for your tale of bad wiring and fried components... I have an identical story, except mine was a 500GB Seagate drive... I had purchased a fan back in 2008, it was an 80mm trucking tornado, but, pride in hand, I just figured that people were being sissies about the level of noise this vacuum produced... I have never been more wrong in my life!!!

This thing was so loud, that with my door closed and the fan at half speed, it was too loud to watch a movie in the living room! It was literally like running a vacuum. No joking, no sarcasm, it is the loudest single fan I have ever heard. It must have been pushing 100dB from ten feet away.

Anyhow, to alleviate the noise of this ridiculously loud 80mm torrent of irritation, I swapped the +5v and +12v on the Molex adapter for the fan. About a year later I was working on my computer, and I moved a hard drive from my server into my gaming rig, powered it on, and occurred the loudest SNAP! a hard drive had ever made, with a compliment of a nice poor of smoke... I thought, "Oh. ****. My data literally just went up in smoke!" My first reaction was just to power down, thinking that the PSU was toast and fear that something else might fry, I saw the fried part on the PCB, and having a near identical board, with a part in the same location and same label, I thought I would do a swap... So I soldered on the new part, connected the drive to my server, and to my utter amazement the drive worked fine, and just as you experienced, it was indeed slightly faster than before... I was so happy, I figured that the component must have been bad and it fried and replacing it fixed the drive, right up until I plugged it back into my gaming rig, which worked fine when I powered it up without the drive... I went to plug it in, powered it on, and while it was booting the part I replaced just fell right off... Apparently when it fried it destroyed the solder pad, so I never actually replaced it, I soldered it to one side, and thought I soldered it to the other side, but just wasted some solder apparently... lol

Anyhow, Linux booted,the drive was detected, and all was well... Fortunately I saw that I had used the Molex adapter that I had rewired for the obnoxious vacuum I had installed... lol

All's well that ends well I suppose... Lesson learned at least, now I ALWAYS check what I am plugging into.

Anyhow, thank you for being considerate enough to double check and make sure I had some idea of what the crap I was doing, I am sure that there are some folks that tend to get all worked up and ready to mod, and jump in without verifying everything, and end up botching it all...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> Do you guys know where i can get another amd crossfire cable? I can't find my black rog one that came with this board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My second gpu comes in tomorrow.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Here ya go:
> 
> http://us.estore.asus.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4812
> 
> Make sure to check length!!!


I though that with Xfire you could run without a bridge...? At least that is what I have read several places...


----------



## reev3r

By the way, I forgot to mention how glorious I thought it is that you included the pictures... Especially the cat chillin', as if to say, "Yup, I pissed on your junk. It happened to be right on top of the space I wanted to piss. Good luck cleaning that out, I ate some wild asparagus..." lol

Damned cats, always so smug with themselves. They crap in your shoe, they purr. The piss inside your computer, they smile then nap. They watch mice run around without killing them, then look up at you as if to say, "Why you letting then run around my house?"...

I love cats.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> snip


Thankyou very much for that, repped.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 1. run memtest at the rated speed, timings and voltage to test the sticks. run it at the memory OC if you do one.
> 2. that's a "clock-gen reset". it will occur after a clrcmos or a change in strap (and bclk ~ >0.5. Or.... when your settings will set teh cpu frequency to 4.5 or lower if you had >4.5 active at post. and vis-versa
> 3. if a worker fails in p95, the system is not stable. run p95 like: check "custom", set FFT time to 5 min per FFT. Set ram amount to 12288/16GB or at least 50% of your ram amount. if you are running 1.3V or higher under p95 load, I personally do not let temps exceed 60C. lower your clocks and voltage or get better cooling.
> 
> if you are using offset OC, add 4mV to turbo voltage if a worker fails, reboot and run it again, only need 20min to 1h of p95 with the above settings for a gaming rig.
> 
> here's a good OS-based memory test... open an instance for each core (so 6 instances for IB-E
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> MemTest.zip 13k .zip file
> 
> 
> MemTestPro.zip 15k .zip file


Thankyou, Repped!
So your saying i have to run memtest pro say 6 times from the os to use all 6 cores?

Ive been running memtest overnight (the built in windows version) and it has found no errors. Is it still worth running the os version?

Also my cooling should be good enough as i have 2 RX360 rads, with a monoblock so i woulda thought cooling was good, you can see my build if you click on it in my signature.









Oh yeah what do you people think of using Corsair Link software, use or not use? Do you use OCP or not use OCP?

I have an AX1200i.....

About my OC, im at 4.6ghz using 2133mhz memory with a turbo mv of 32mv. What should i take the Turbo mv up too if it keeps failing Prime (custom)? Im using your Bios settings JPM boy, what do i adjust using offset to increase the Vcore as i got a feeling its the vcore thats causing it to fail at 4.6ghz as the cpu is only taking 1.23v roughly.

Also while running Prime my cpu according to cpuz is using 1.23v roughly. Apparently this cpu can do 5ghz but im struggling to hit that speed, the last owner of this cpu posted pictures of 5ghz ht-on.

I have used the last users bios settings and i cannot even boot into windows at 5ghz using xmp profile and manual vcore settings at 1.34v.

I would appreciate any help that i can get with taking this cpu as far as i can.
Thankyou to all.


----------



## inlandchris

Sorry, but I thought I would throw my 2 cents worth in: extending the OC panel is not that hard. Leave both ends alone, cut the wire in the middle and add your permanent extenson. Cut each wire seperatly and connect the extensin (each wire) as not to get confused with wiring the wrong wires. If it is shielded wire, you must use the same. If twisted wires, then try to match the twist because tighter or looser twists depends on frequency. If no freq., dont use twists. Look at each wire and judge if 24-22 guage wire, not too important because it doesnt look like it takes too much current.
Leave the pins alone, thats very hard in my opinion
Ok, that looks like 4 cents, sorry


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Sorry, but I thought I would throw my 2 cents worth in: extending the OC panel is not that hard. Leave both ends alone, cut the wire in the middle and add your permanent extenson. Cut each wire seperatly and connect the extensin (each wire) as not to get confused with wiring the wrong wires. If it is shielded wire, you must use the same. If twisted wires, then try to match the twist because tighter or looser twists depends on frequency. If no freq., dont use twists. Look at each wire and judge if 24-22 guage wire, not too important because it doesnt look like it takes too much current.
> Leave the pins alone, thats very hard in my opinion
> Ok, that looks like 4 cents, sorry


Although your method is surely the quickest, get it done method, it also leaves a lot to be desired in the 'neat and clear' area of wiring.

I am currently doing essentially what you recommend by simply extending the cable, however, I will be ordering the necessary pins to rewire the ends. I have a very specific diagram of the pinout, and what color of wire is used, I will also make a diagram of which wires adapt to what extension. As well, I am going to try to find a shielded cable other than ethernet, hopefully I can find something with enough wires to only need a single cable...


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Although your method is surely the quickest, get it done method, it also leaves a lot to be desired in the 'neat and clear' area of wiring.
> 
> I am currently doing essentially what you recommend by simply extending the cable, however, I will be ordering the necessary pins to rewire the ends. I have a very specific diagram of the pinout, and what color of wire is used, I will also make a diagram of which wires adapt to what extension. As well, I am going to try to find a shielded cable other than ethernet, hopefully I can find something with enough wires to only need a single cable...


Yes, great, always more than one way to skin a cat. Sleeving over the entire wire lenght ought to look nice too.


----------



## reev3r

Yeah, I am hoping it turns out, it will be my first attempt at sleeving, and I plan to use a nice cotton sleeve, in black and red to help match the ROG motif. We'll see how it turns out though.  I just found some 22/18 on eBay, he wants $40 for 50ft... Which is about ten times what I actually need. lol so I messaged him and asked I'd he would sell me a length that is 6ft for a reasonable price.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Thankyou very much for that, repped.
> Thankyou, Repped!
> *So your saying i have to run memtest pro say 6 times from the os to use all 6 cores*?
> Ive been running memtest overnight (the built in windows version) and it has found no errors. *Is it still worth running the os version*?
> Also my cooling should be good enough as i have 2 RX360 rads, with a monoblock so i woulda thought cooling was good, you can see my build if you click on it in my signature.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Oh yeah what do you people think of using Corsair Link software*, use or not use? Do you use OCP or not use OCP?
> I have an AX1200i.....
> About my OC, im at 4.6ghz using 2133mhz memory with a turbo mv of 32mv. *What should i take the Turbo mv up too if it keeps failing Prime (custom)? I*m using your Bios settings JPM boy, what do i adjust using offset to increase the Vcore as i got a feeling its the vcore thats causing it to fail at 4.6ghz as the cpu is only taking 1.23v roughly.
> Also while running Prime my cpu according to cpuz is using 1.23v roughly. Apparently this cpu can do 5ghz but im struggling to hit that speed, the last owner of this cpu posted pictures of 5ghz ht-on.
> I have used the last users bios settings and *i cannot even boot into windows at 5ghz* using xmp profile and manual vcore settings at 1.34v.
> I would appreciate any help that i can get with taking this cpu as far as i can.
> Thankyou to all.


yes. no. eh - corsair link is pretty useless, do not set individual rail OCP. use a single rail. I run a 1500i and rarely use corsair link
Add turbo volts until stable at 4.6... it increases vcore under load. 5GHz is not possible for every processor. be careful - you can fry your cpu. I'm getting the sense that you are being a bit impatient with overclocking. Do it wrong and to corrupt the OS, drivers, or teh bios etc (eg get a boot loop)... worst case you brick your rig.

*put a USB key in . post to bios and hit F12 on each bios page (scroll where needed F12 again, so we can check all you settings) put the bios screenines in a folder, right-click "send to" compressed zip folder and post that in this thread.*

oh - btw - number of rads its important for shedding heat... the quality of the cpu block and the quality of how it is mounted can have a major effect on how well the cpu heat gets into the water.


----------



## V3teran

I had a feeling you was gonna say that Corsair Link was useless! The thing is when i installed it all of the rails had a ticked box enabling OCP, so i unticked all of these rails and uninstalled it.

I have uploaded my bios screenshots here. Also i see that you mentioned that Turbo Mv increases Vcore as i understand it "Im adding volts ontop of the Turbo". However is there a way to add vcore by using the offset, tbh i dont understand what the offset is and i need to do some reading, this is all very daunting coming from an X58 platform.

Yes your right i am a bit impatient when it comes to oc, i need to slow down and digest the information.

Thanks very much for your time and effort in help its very much appreciated as im learning all the time!

BiosVets.zip 1638k .zip file


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

First go to Ai Overclocker Tuner and set the X.M.P Profile.

Set CPU VTT to 1.2V if all is stabil reduce this. 1.2 is max for 24/7 use.
Set CPU VCCSA to 1.2 V to 1.2V if all is stabil reduce this. 1.2 is max for 24/7 use.
Set DRAM Voltage CHA CHB and DRAM Voltage CHC CHD to 1.675V if all is stabil reduce this. 1.675V is max for 24/7 use.
Set CPU PLL to 1.85V between 1.8-1.9V is for 24/7 use on straps 100 for straps 125 is 1.65V a good choice.

DRAM Timing Control
Leave everything on auto.
This is the last tuning option after a long stability run.

Digi+ Power Control

CPU Load-line calibration - Medium
CPU Current Capability 140%
CPU Power Duty Control T.Probe
CPU Power Phase Control - Optimized
VCCSA Load-line Calibration Regular
VCCSA Current Capability 120%
DRAM AB Current Capability 120%
DRAM AB Power Phase Control - Optimized
DRAM CD Current Capability 120%
DRAM CD Power Phase Control - Optimized

Leave everything else on auto.

And im sure your additional turbo voltage must be way higher.
Make sure you have for testing 1.4V Vcore.
After a long stability run you can lower this more and more.

If 46 is not stabil then 45 an try again.

1.4V Vore is max for 24/7 use under custom water cooling.
1.3V Vcore is max for 24/7 use under air.


----------



## V3teran

Thankyou for posting that, MehlstaubtheCat a slightly different perspective to what JPMBoy uses. Im going to work with JPMboy for now but i will try your settings aswell alittle later on.
Thanks again for posting i really appreciate it, the more i can test the better i can understand how things work on X79.

Anyhow i managed to find stability at 4.6ghz in Prime for 1hr by increasing the Cpu core offset voltage and Cpu Vcssa manual voltage a couple of notches.
Im now going to try 4.7ghz with same settings.









Repped btw for helping out!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Thankyou for posting that, MehlstaubtheCat a slightly different perspective to what JPMBoy uses. Im going to work with JPMboy for now but i will try your settings aswell alittle later on.
> Thanks again for posting i really appreciate it, the more i can test the better i can understand how things work on X79.
> 
> Anyhow i managed to find stability at 4.6ghz in Prime for 1hr by *increasing the Cpu core offset voltage and Cpu Vcssa manual voltage a couple of notches.*
> Im now going to try 4.7ghz with same settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repped btw for helping out!


great job!!
(you can switch to fixed - re: cat method - anytime. both work equally well when at 4.8 or under.

only a couple of recommendations to the bios settings you posted:

Xtreme tweak - enabled
vccsa 1.0-1.10V (should not need any higher for 16GB [email protected])
Memory: only set 9-11-10-28, assuming these are the kit's rated timings, set the rest to auto and repost (after completing all changes) see how the auto values rcompare to what you had. most you should set for 2133 is 9-11-10-28-160(?) and command rate (CR or T) - the rest on auto.
CPU current @ auto=140%. you can set this to 160-180% - no worries, it'll pull what it needs.

try increasing cpu voltage frequency to 500, vtt freq to 1.3x and pch to 1.3x before adding more volts to offset or turbo. at 100 bclk and idle at 1200, you would never need more than 5mV offset (and maybe even negative offset







). 30-40mV Additiional turbo should be plenty.

let us know how it does.

I run 4.7 offset with 5/64mV 500, 1.3x, 1.3x, PLL=1.85V p95 load vcore is 1.328 (and as low as 1.312V). Idle @ 0.864V 14.1W.


----------



## kzinti1

My R4E-B almost failed to start after a restart for an update.
There were 6 beeps and code 4F.
I found a beep code chart, http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20080415005820906&board_id=1&model=M3A&pa...
It says 6 short beeps = Gate A20 failure - "The keyboard controller IC has failed, which is not allowing Gate A20 to switch the processor to protected mode. Replace the keyboard controller."
I don't know what that means.
POST code 4F is, according to Intel, http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/sb/CS-032090.htm,
"This can happen if the system BIOS does not support the processor you have installed in the system."
I'm fairly certain my board supports this i7-4930K, since this cpu was made for this board, and vice versa.
This all sounds like so much BS, to me.
I left my computer beeping away, and went to brew a pot of coffee.
When I came back it had finally posted.
Here are the specs, http://valid.x86.fr/xck6dg, and I'm using BIOS 0602, as 0603, 0701 and 0801 are unstable for my system.
Any ideas as to how to keep this from happening again?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzinti1*
> 
> My R4E-B almost failed to start after a restart for an update.
> There were 6 beeps and code 4F.
> I found a beep code chart, http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20080415005820906&board_id=1&model=M3A&pa...
> It says 6 short beeps = Gate A20 failure - "The keyboard controller IC has failed, which is not allowing Gate A20 to switch the processor to protected mode. Replace the keyboard controller."
> I don't know what that means.
> POST code 4F is, according to Intel, http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/sb/CS-032090.htm,
> "This can happen if the system BIOS does not support the processor you have installed in the system."
> I'm fairly certain my board supports this i7-4930K, since this cpu was made for this board, and vice versa.
> This all sounds like so much BS, to me.
> I left my computer beeping away, and went to brew a pot of coffee.
> When I came back it had finally posted.
> Here are the specs, http://valid.x86.fr/xck6dg, and I'm using BIOS 0602, as 0603, 0701 and 0801 are unstable for my system.
> Any ideas as to how to keep this from happening again?


post bios screen shots like described in th eabove post. (did you disable cpu and pcie spreadspectrum? if not you should)


----------



## Clos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Here ya go:
> 
> http://us.estore.asus.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4812
> 
> Make sure to check length!!!


Awesome thanks! Ordered one, I appreciate your help!

*Edit: +rep for the info. i couldn't find that e.store for anything.... Thanks Again!


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> great job!!
> (you can switch to fixed - re: cat method - anytime. both work equally well when at 4.8 or under.
> 
> only a couple of recommendations to the bios settings you posted:
> 
> Xtreme tweak - enabled
> vccsa 1.0-1.10V (should not need any higher for 16GB [email protected])
> Memory: only set 9-11-10-28, assuming these are the kit's rated timings, set the rest to auto and repost (after completing all changes) see how the auto values rcompare to what you had. most you should set for 2133 is 9-11-10-28-160(?) and command rate (CR or T) - the rest on auto.
> CPU current @ auto=140%. you can set this to 160-180% - no worries, it'll pull what it needs.
> 
> try increasing cpu voltage frequency to 500, vtt freq to 1.3x and pch to 1.3x before adding more volts to offset or turbo. at 100 bclk and idle at 1200, you would never need more than 5mV offset (and maybe even negative offset
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). 30-40mV Additiional turbo should be plenty.
> 
> let us know how it does.
> 
> I run 4.7 offset with 5/64mV 500, 1.3x, 1.3x, PLL=1.85V p95 load vcore is 1.328 (and as low as 1.312V). Idle @ 0.864V 14.1W.


Thankyou and repped,at hospital with wife, as soon as I get back ill try those settings out.

I did actually achieve 4.7 prime stable,cpu was pulling 1.29v, but had to use more turbo mv however temps were in the mid 60s on 1 of the cores, so I need to try and decrease temps through tweaking like you have suggested.


----------



## BrettJSr72

I own this beautiful board but from reading the failures and successes of numerous people, I'm just afraid to attempt any OC'n on it, am I wrong? I plan to max the ram just because and eventually pick up three new GPU cards.

Currently it's running with no problems and I just don't have the desire to mess up a good thing. What say the forum?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Thankyou and repped,at hospital with wife, as soon as I get back ill try those settings out.
> 
> I did actually achieve 4.7 prime stable,cpu was pulling 1.29v, but had to use more turbo mv however temps were in the mid 60s on 1 of the cores, so I need to try and decrease temps through tweaking like you have suggested.


whoa - hope everything is okay. you won't score any points by rushing back to overclock your PC - it could end up in the pool.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Hi Jpmboy !

I run -0.060 Offset and 0.223V turbo.
Idle 0.719V 1200MHz and Prime Load 0.792V 1200MHz
and 0.992V 3400MHz Prime Load. (VMM)
You shut try, it it's amazing !

My complete system in idle at 109 watts







also measured with a
http://www.conrad.nl/nl/voltcraft-energy-monitor-3000-energiekostenmeter-lcd-0001-15000-kwh-2376-h-125331.html

OC and undervolting in one configuration, love it !









You have show me the additional turbo voltage setting

Thx for your advice !


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi Jpmboy !
> 
> I run *-0.060 Offset and 0.223V turbo.*
> Idle 0.719V 1200MHz and Prime Load 0.792V 1200MHz
> and 0.992V 3400MHz Prime Load. (VMM)
> You shut try, it it's amazing !
> 
> My complete system in idle at 109 watts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also measured with a
> http://www.conrad.nl/nl/voltcraft-energy-monitor-3000-energiekostenmeter-lcd-0001-15000-kwh-2376-h-125331.html
> 
> OC and undervolting in one configuration, love it !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have show me the additional turbo voltage setting
> 
> Thx for your advice !


ha! that's just crazy negative offset. Very cool! I've done that with my 2700K.. .but no where near -60mV










I use this... but with a 1500w + 1200W PSU setup.. all it does is beep!


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> I own this beautiful board but from reading the failures and successes of numerous people, I'm just afraid to attempt any OC'n on it, am I wrong? I plan to max the ram just because and eventually pick up three new GPU cards.
> 
> Currently it's running with no problems and I just don't have the desire to mess up a good thing. What say the forum?


I was like that when i get my R4BE up and running for a while but the urge to OC it is wasted potential if you dont.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> whoa - hope everything is okay. you won't score any points by rushing back to overclock your PC - it could end up in the pool.


Yeah all is ok, thanks for asking though









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi Jpmboy !
> 
> I run -0.060 Offset and 0.223V turbo.
> Idle 0.719V 1200MHz and Prime Load 0.792V 1200MHz
> and 0.992V 3400MHz Prime Load. (VMM)
> You shut try, it it's amazing !
> 
> My complete system in idle at 109 watts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also measured with a
> http://www.conrad.nl/nl/voltcraft-energy-monitor-3000-energiekostenmeter-lcd-0001-15000-kwh-2376-h-125331.html
> 
> OC and undervolting in one configuration, love it !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have show me the additional turbo voltage setting
> 
> Thx for your advice !


That sounds great, imma try that! Between you and JPM there is just too much info atm, i need to take a step back and do one thing at a time as suggested in the thread earlier









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> ha! that's just crazy negative offset. Very cool! I've done that with my 2700K.. .but no where near -60mV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this... but with a 1500w + 1200W PSU setup.. all it does is beep!


Out of interest i noticed that Speedstep works fine but can cause instability at the highest overclocks which is a point i have not reached yet i hope.
So what Power settings are you using from Control Panel? Maximum Performance with Hardisk turned off/never sleep etc? Or balanced? Balanced can cause instability right?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> I was like that when i get my R4BE up and running for a while but the urge to OC it is wasted potential if you dont.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah all is ok, thanks for asking though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That sounds great, imma try that! Between you and JPM there is just too much info atm, i need to take a step back and do one thing at a time as suggested in the thread earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of interest i noticed that Speedstep works fine but can cause instability at the highest overclocks which is a point i have not reached yet i hope.
> So what Power settings are you using from Control Panel? Maximum Performance with Hardisk turned off/never sleep etc? Or balanced? *Balanced can cause instability right*?


this is really not going to be the root cause of instability of the CPU overclock at this point... first get a p95 stable OC with the needed vcore/vccsa/vtt... etc. power is set at min=0% max=100% w/ speedstep enabled, no harddisks here







. Sleep is best controlled at the bios level... but in W7 I have it set to "never".
What's your 1st objective? Suicide-run benchmarking? Or Game/Work stability? I suggest you achieve the later first, then climb the ladder to extreme clocks (my def of extreme clocks is anything higher than 4.7 on IB-E







) Get a rock stable 4.7 if you can, then you know what you'll need for higher frequencies. You really learn alot about the silicon by knowing how it scales mV/MHz from 4.2-4.7/4.8


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> I own this beautiful board but from reading the failures and successes of numerous people, I'm just afraid to attempt any OC'n on it, am I wrong? I plan to max the ram just because and eventually pick up three new GPU cards.
> 
> Currently it's running with no problems and I just don't have the desire to mess up a good thing. What say the forum?


erm... this is Overclockers.net. No need to wonder what the forum will say...


----------



## kzinti1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> post bios screen shots like described in th eabove post. (did you disable cpu and pcie spreadspectrum? if not you should)


You mean shut this down and hope it posts again?
Sorry. No. Not until I finish my new build.


----------



## Gualichu04

Well i can't seem to get this motherboard to set my swiftech mcp35x pwn to 50% in bios and the ai suite 3 wont let me set rpms or profiles. I tried plugging it in the chassis fan 1 and opt temp 1 headers. Try max duty 50% for opt 1 and it still is at 100% and on chassis fan 1 it wont let me go lower than 60% but it wont run at 60% anyways. In AI suite it says min rpm is 4480 after running fan tuning.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzinti1*
> 
> You mean shut this down and hope it posts again?
> Sorry. No. Not until I finish my new build.


lol...

if it won't restart and get back to bios (not a cold boot)...


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> erm... this is Overclockers.net. No need to wonder what the forum will say...


Yes, I know. Just looking for inspiration. I'd just hate to step into unfamiliar territory and mess up a good thing. By me soliciting dialog, I believe I will. I'll just take it slowly at first.

Just be prepared for a barrage of questions.


----------



## kzinti1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> lol...
> 
> if it won't restart and get back to bios (not a cold boot)...


That's exactly what I'm worried about right now.
What's so strange about that?
I could explain further, but I'm not going to.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Yes, I know. Just looking for inspiration. I'd just hate to step into unfamiliar territory and mess up a good thing. By me soliciting dialog, I believe I will. I'll just take it slowly at first.
> 
> Just be prepared for a barrage of questions.


There are many folks here who can help out.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzinti1*
> 
> That's exactly what I'm worried about right now.
> What's so strange about that?
> I could explain further, but I'm not going to.


Yeah, thx. Not asking you to.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Well i can't seem to get this motherboard to set my swiftech mcp35x pwn to 50% in bios and the ai suite 3 wont let me set rpms or profiles. *I tried plugging it in the chassis fan 1 and opt temp 1 headers*. Try max duty 50% for opt 1 and it still is at 100% and on chassis fan 1 it wont let me go lower than 60% but it wont run at 60% anyways. In AI suite it says min rpm is 4480 after running fan tuning.


You should only use the CPU_FAN header for your pump. Only CPU-FAN and CPU_OPT are PWM headers, and CPU_OPT is just a mirror of CPU_FAN. It cannot be controlled individually. All of the OPT_FAN and CHA_FAN headers are voltage controlled, as is typical for most mobos.


----------



## NEOAethyr

I don't think hooking a pump up to the mobo is quite a good idea.
I'm just saying you don't want your pump to shut down by accident and not realize it.

When I had mine hooked up to the mobo I always set it to max, but there were times on auto that I look back on that makes me wonder if it was even on.
I got a nzxt aio water cooler, it's got that crappy software rpm reading, so no bios reading...

I think it's bad practice to hook it to the mobo, pumps aren't that loud anyways, I run mine right off the 12v from the psu.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I don't think hooking a pump up to the mobo is quite a good idea.
> I'm just saying you don't want your pump to shut down by accident and not realize it.
> 
> When I had mine hooked up to the mobo I always set it to max, but there were times on auto that I look back on that makes me wonder if it was even on.
> I got a nzxt aio water cooler, it's got that crappy software rpm reading, so no bios reading...
> 
> I think it's bad practice to hook it to the mobo, pumps aren't that loud anyways, I run mine right off the 12v from the psu.


The MCP35X is a PWM DDC pump. It only uses the PWM signal and tach from a PWM mobo fan header, and gets it's 12V power and ground from the PSU. If it loses the PWM signal it reverts to 100% speed. You really NEED to use the PWM though as DDC pumps have a well-known tendency to overheat to the point of failure if run at full speed for long periods especially in loops that don't have a higher than typical amount of restriction. The PWM feature _greatly_ helps to keep pump temps in check. It's also a really good idea to add one of the heatsinks several companies make for the DDC also.


----------



## JLMS2010

I hate to leave the club guys. Just reserved my 5960x at MC. Going to pick up tomorrow/Sunday







My 4960x/RIVBE/RAM will be for sale. Lol


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I hate to leave the club guys. Just reserved my 5960x at MC. Going to pick up tomorrow/Sunday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 4960x/RIVBE/RAM will be for sale. Lol


Nice. Post back with your 5960 experience.


----------



## szeged

grabbed a 5960x and some gskill 3000mhz ddr4, waiting on the rampage 5 to come in stock. taking forever newegg....taking forever...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I hate to leave the club guys. Just reserved my 5960x at MC. Going to pick up tomorrow/Sunday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 4960x/RIVBE/RAM will be for sale. Lol


What board are you going with? That Asus workstation model...


----------



## JLMS2010

I reserved the X99 Deluxe. It goes with my color scheme. Lol The Rampage didn't.









Honestly, I ALMOST sold my current CPU/MB/RAM and went Z97 with 2 GPU's. Lol Then I realized I wouldn't have been satisfied.


----------



## szeged

my board is gonna be covered with insulation, wont see much red


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> my board is gonna be covered with insulation, wont see much red


NICE! Mine is for 24/7 that's why I went deluxe over RVE


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Yeah, the deluxe is more sexy the the extreme, thats true









Good luck JLMS2010 ! Hope you find a good one for best oc results


----------



## NEOAethyr

I know this may seem far fetched but you guys that are upgrading to the x99, can you test this? :
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46486-X79-BIOS-bug-might-affect-all-x79-boards&p=431192&viewfull=1#post431192

Just try diff mem div's and make sure to power off after saving the settings, check the bandwith to see if there's a large gap between read and write speeds in aida64.
The higher the cpu clock and higher the strap the better, say for example read perf is 60k, and write is 40k...
I already saw a 50k/40k, 3.5ghz, looks affected but I'de like to see higher numbers to be sure.

Edit:
Going out on a limb here, but I've been thinking more about it.

If the x99 is affected at 100 x 21.33
The next lower would be 100 x 18.66, and that in theory would work.
But 125 x 18.66 shouldn't work right.
It would either be 125 x 16.66 (2082.5mhz) (if there exists such a thing I'de have to reset and check...), or 125 x 13.33 (1666.25mhz).
And that's a pretty low speed for ddr4..., and at 125mhz strap you don't have idle voltages.
Even though the platform is rated at 2133, it can only do 1866 officially, in a way.
I know it's crazy but, I kinda would like to know...
I know I'm only going by 1 screenshot on 1 review though...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I just ask here, is there really ANY point of going with RVE, 5960X and DDR4 with my 4x R9 290X's over the RIVBE, 3930K and DDR3 1866Mhz (probably at 2133 Mhz soon)? I would rather find a 3960X/3970X/4960X that could do some nice clocks and just use that with my current system and try to sell the 3930K again.

4K gaming all the way by the way.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I just ask here, is there really ANY point of going with RVE, 5960X and DDR4 with my 4x R9 290X's over the RIVBE, 3930K and DDR3 1866Mhz (probably at 2133 Mhz soon)? I would rather find a 3960X/3970X/4960X that could do some nice clocks and just use that with my current system and try to sell the 3930K again.
> 
> 4K gaming all the way by the way.


no. the only reason to do that upgrade would be you need 8 cores (games don't) or you're into benchmarking. With the extra cores CPu-bound benchmarks will go thru the roof. (eg. just like with an 8-core xeon)

The best of this crop may be the 5820K... ambient temp OCs on the 5960 look to be 4.5 and lower. Check HWBOT for the ASUS extreme OC session. 1.7V 6GHz 5960X !!
http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/core-i7-5960x-5930k-and-5820k-processor-review,1.html
http://www.anandtech.com/show/8426/the-intel-haswell-e-cpu-review-core-i7-5960x-i7-5930k-i7-5820k-tested
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-core-i7-5960x-haswell-e-cpu,3918.html
http://techreport.com/review/26977/intel-core-i7-5960x-processor-reviewed/14

as with most of these launches, seems like the better chips show up after a couple of batches and field testing...


----------



## szeged

Jpm are you jumping to x99?

Offtopic for you Jpm, have you seen that hellcat challenger? Smells like trade in time for me.


----------



## Kimir

Ahah yeah, Hwbot is flooded by the Elite OC with RVE and 5960X. NDA lift, post everything!








I like that, just don't like the Intel move of making the 8 core only with the 1k€ chip.


----------



## Shadowarez

Maybe skylake will be 8 core base. I still need to build a x99 Nas just wish Asus Ws came in a Matx form lol.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Jpm are you jumping to x99?
> 
> Offtopic for you Jpm, have you seen that hellcat challenger? Smells like trade in time for me.


yeah - but not gonna "early adopt" this one







Would like to hold off for a little while... while the launch-bugs shake out. Especially for DDR4 to become reasonable. Hopefully i have the self-control.
Probably sell this 2700K and get a second 295x2... although it has been bullet proof for 2 years running ALL THE TIME. with everything from 7970's, titans, classys, and a 295x2.

And YES! I have seen the hellcat - sick (straight-line car for sure). Will be hooking up with a few Mopar buds on Sunday (Pocono) will see what they say. Maybe someone will have one to run, but mostly viper guys. I'll be running the ZR1. 1/2 day early session at dawn...
Gotta love the number of 600+ HP cars Dettroit is putting out now... It's heaven !!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Which CPU do you guys recommend for my setup?

3960X/3970X/4930K/4960X?

Just to inform, 3930K @ 3,8 volts vs 3930K @ 4,6 Ghz only gives 2 fps better average FPS in Tomb Raider at Ultimate at 4K. Hitman Absolution and BF4 is similar, how much of a boost would I probably get with 4.7-5.0 Ghz? Running the GPU's at 1100/1300 for gaming. Will try to get 2133 Mhz out of my RAM, but that should not do too much with the FPS in games.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> no. the only reason to do that upgrade would be you need 8 cores (games don't) or you're into benchmarking. With the extra cores CPu-bound benchmarks will go thru the roof. (eg. just like with an 8-core xeon)
> 
> The best of this crop may be the 5820K... ambient temp OCs on the 5960 look to be 4.5 and lower. Check HWBOT for the ASUS extreme OC session. 1.7V 6GHz 5960X !!
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/core-i7-5960x-5930k-and-5820k-processor-review,1.html
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/8426/the-intel-haswell-e-cpu-review-core-i7-5960x-i7-5930k-i7-5820k-tested
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-core-i7-5960x-haswell-e-cpu,3918.html
> http://techreport.com/review/26977/intel-core-i7-5960x-processor-reviewed/14
> 
> as with most of these launches, seems like the better chips show up after a couple of batches and field testing...


Yeah, those are all ES chips. I have retail, under H110 @ 4.5, I need 1.265V, and don't hit 70c @ load. Also word is starting to leak out that using ASUS board may invalidate CPU warranty.

why?

well :



Funny thing is, that CPU has these pins to be used.

Interesting times, interesting times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Which CPU do you guys recommend for my setup?
> 
> 3960X/3970X/4930K/4960X?
> 
> Just to inform, 3930K @ 3,8 volts vs 3930K @ 4,6 Ghz only gives 2 fps better average FPS in Tomb Raider at Ultimate at 4K. Hitman Absolution and BF4 is similar, how much of a boost would I probably get with 4.7-5.0 Ghz? Running the GPU's at 1100/1300 for gaming. Will try to get 2133 Mhz out of my RAM, but that should not do too much with the FPS in games.


Retail 4930k seems to clock like mad. That'd be my suggestion.


----------



## szeged

no warranty anyways if you overclock







im not worried about cpu warranties, intel tuning plan has you covered.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> no warranty anyways if you overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im not worried about cpu warranties, intel tuning plan has you covered.


does it? That's the question that needs to be answered. Does the socket allow you to clock better? YESSSS!!!

So maybe ASUS push Intel around a bit, gets stuff like SATA Express and extra CPU pins, but Intel bites back by invalidating warranty on CPUs that show contact on those pads. Since most benchers will buy ASUS anyway, Intel may have, in one move, killed competitive OC, maybe they will also have special tuning plan that cost $250. I mean, those guys have extra money to burn, anyway, right? And have cost industry LOTS for RMAs not needed? So...


----------



## szeged

well if i kill my 5960x ill let you know if the tuning plan works







RvE inc mid next week, just waiting on some gskill 3000s to get back in stock so i can start insulating.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> well if i kill my 5960x ill let you know if the tuning plan works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RvE inc mid next week, just waiting on some gskill 3000s to get back in stock so i can start insulating.


Those sticks are a good deal, yep. Clock well on ASUS only right now, but I have to try new BIOS on EVGA:



I've been in school all week, and have physio from the car accident still, so haven't had a chance to test them all yet.


----------



## szeged

wow you got your work cut out for you lol









if i can ever get some in stock ill definitely be pushing them while frozen.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> wow you got your work cut out for you lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if i can ever get some in stock ill definitely be pushing them while frozen.


Posted the GAMING 7 review yesterday, so 5 left. ASUS Deluxe on my test bench right now, working on the G.SKILL 3000 review, then...evga, since it came first in the mail after ASUS. then one ASRock, then Gigabyte, then the last ASRock. Thank god it's a long weekend, might get a few done!


----------



## OBI-1

Finally got it up and running! Now its time to start my OC


----------



## V3teran

JPMboy, i been away for couple of days due to family stuff. I have yet to try the other settings that you and MehlstaubtheCat suggested.
I also have these settings from a friend who has his cpu at 4.9 fully stable so he says.
Im no expert but to me the some of the settings look quite high even if it is 4.9.
Can somebody like yourself take alook at these please and give me your opinion?
Thankyou much appreciated!

friends4930kbios.zip 2381k .zip file


----------



## Kimir

Yeah from a quick look, 1.44-45 VCCSA, nono.
From my point of view, seems like he just maxed out everything without knowing what they do.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, those are all ES chips. I have retail, under H110 @ *4.5, I need 1.265V, and don't hit 70c @ load*. Also word is starting to leak out that using ASUS board may invalidate CPU warranty.
> why?
> well :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny thing is, that CPU has these pins to be used.
> Interesting times, interesting times.
> Retail 4930k seems to clock like mad. That'd be my suggestion.


that's promising!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Those sticks are a good deal, yep. Clock well on ASUS only right now, but I have to try new BIOS on EVGA:
> 
> 
> I've been in school all week, and have physio from the car accident still, so haven't had a chance to test them all yet.


I'd take that x99 WS when you're through with it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> JPMboy, i been away for couple of days due to family stuff. I have yet to try the other settings that you and MehlstaubtheCat suggested.
> I also have these settings from a friend who has his cpu at 4.9 fully stable so he says.
> Im no expert but to me the some of the settings look quite high even if it is 4.9.
> Can somebody like yourself take alook at these please and give me your opinion?
> Thankyou much appreciated!
> 
> friends4930kbios.zip 2381k .zip file


Some friend....







My opinion - that chip is in the electric chair.
yeah - frankly I'd never run my 4960x at those settings. offset and ultra LLC are not good together. AND VCCSA at 1.44V??? "Fully stable" to what? ... didn't turn into a flashbulb yet?

EDIT:

Look bro. here's offset settings for 4.7 for a 4960X on the R4BE with bios 0602 (what i'm running 24/7). Enter these values and adjust them slightly to work with your CPU. Memory settings are absent 'cause you need to enter your's manually according to the memory spec (SPD ratings @ the mem frequency you use). Get this working and we can move up. Prefer fixed? set vcore to Manual and 1.330V. Set CPU power to auto. all else is the same.

47offset4960x.zip 1645k .zip file


I'd have to say that your "friend's" settings are .... well, krap.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, those are all ES chips. I have retail, under H110 @ 4.5, I need 1.265V, and don't hit 70c @ load. Also *word is starting to leak out that using ASUS board may invalidate CPU warranty.
> 
> why?
> 
> well :*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Funny thing is, that CPU has these pins to be used.*
> 
> Interesting times, interesting times.


What am I not seeing there? What pins? What voids the warranty? Is there a discussion about this going on somewhere?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What am I not seeing there? What pins? What voids the warranty? Is there a discussion about this going on somewhere?


If you read german:

http://www.computerbase.de/2014-08/asus-x99-mainboards-mehr-pins-oc-sockel-garantie-intel/

Any answers or such about this are going to be interesting. This socket is an ASUS-only thing. None of the other boards I have here have this socket, ASUS advertises this on the box that they have this socket, even, and it DOES make a difference.

As to the Intel side of this, that's only part of that link (and some posts are starting to appear about this, maybe originating from this article writer, or some users reading the article), while at the same time I think it's a very interesting thing, since even SATA Express seems to be ASUS design. I think these innovations are great, myself, and if these things are truly from ASUS, they might deserve more respect than I have for the board this thread is really about, and gives me more reason to recommend ASUS. I mean, wow... just wow.

The pic I posted showing prototype socket...that's MY board, and my pic.
Quote:


> the additional contacts are used for failure analysis.


The CPUs do have "extra" pin contacts that match this socket.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Look bro. here's offset settings for 4.7 for a 4960X on the R4BE with bios 0602 (what i'm running 24/7). Enter these values and adjust them slightly to work with your CPU. Memory settings are absent 'cause you need to enter your's manually according to the memory spec (SPD ratings @ the mem frequency you use). Get this working and we can move up. Prefer fixed? set vcore to Manual and 1.330V. Set CPU power to auto. all else is the same.
> 
> 47offset4960x.zip 1645k .zip file
> 
> 
> I'd have to say that your "friend's" settings are .... well, krap.


Pretty much the settings I've got, except that my offset voltage is higher even if in the end I'm at 1.33v Prime95, but that's because my chip is very low volt to begin with. (yeah I know I have the RIVE and not the black, same thing to me lol).
I finally made a 4.8Ghz 1.41v Prime95 stable (1.384v most of the time in others demanding application) this morning.









One thing I didn't try to do yet, is lower the vccsa. I'm sitting at 1.12v right now and vtt at 1.1v. Still waiting good weather (cold) to try 4.9/2666+ bench profile.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Retail 4930k seems to clock like mad. That'd be my suggestion.


Should I buy a new chip or should I buy used? I have been in contact with a guy with a 4930K that does 4,7 Ghz @ 1,35 volts with 2133 Mhz (1,65 volt) RAM. I guess the price for the used is about half a new one, or about 420 USD. New one cost 750 USD.


----------



## Mega Man

http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/mainboard/73817-asus-x99-deluxe/

that talks about the extra pins if you dont know

the one thing i love about x99, they finnally did away with the ps2. not that i ever really starred at my io..... but i hate and always have hated ps2 since usb

i am debating about getting it but atm i dont really need /want it maybe soon but atm inlaws are here for 3 months, and too much to do already, would make a sexy place for my 295x2s though,

i LOVE how the x99 deluxe looks, it is screaming for a build, but i want the RVE because.... i want the best lol

cant they make a RVBE or a RIVEw ( white ) would looks sexay !


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Pretty much the settings I've got, except that my offset voltage is higher even if in the end I'm at 1.33v Prime95, but that's because my chip is very low volt to begin with. (yeah I know I have the RIVE and not the black, same thing to me lol).
> I finally made a 4.8Ghz 1.41v Prime95 stable (1.384v most of the time in others demanding application) this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I didn't try to do yet, is lower the vccsa. I'm sitting at 1.12v right now and vtt at 1.1v. Still waiting good weather (cold) to try 4.9/2666+ bench profile.


yeah - A modest, rock-solid OC (4.6-4.7+/-) is easier that most users think. Folks get into" paralysis by analysis", expect to hit 4.9 and 5.0 on day one (with "someone's" settings







) tweak waay too many parameters - cause they're there - and get frustrated either because their system is unstable when _really_ used or degrade their cpu and blame the hardware. Granted, all silicon is not equal... but not that different either. IDK, once the K/X-type chips came out with unlocked multipliers it got simple.
For everyday and gaming, use the tech Intel built into the chips. For benchmarking... may be best to go old school and lock the frequency and vcore.

IMO - 1.12V VCCSA is good forever same with VTT @ 1.1V. And 1.384 for 4.9 is fantastic!!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/mainboard/73817-asus-x99-deluxe/
> 
> that talks about the extra pins if you dont know
> 
> the one thing i love about x99, they finnally did away with the ps2. not that i ever really starred at my io..... but i hate and always have hated ps2 since usb
> 
> i am debating about getting it but atm i dont really need /want it maybe soon but atm inlaws are here for 3 months, and too much to do already, would make a sexy place for my 295x2s though,
> 
> i LOVE how the x99 deluxe looks, it is screaming for a build, but i want the RVE because.... i want the best lol
> 
> cant they make a RVBE or a RIVEw ( white ) would looks sexay !


I really like how the x99E-WS looks !!









edit... so the extra pins only come in play at 1.6V? If true, I won't need them


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> edit... so the extra pins only come in play at 1.6V? If true, I won't need them


No, it's not that simple. I read that as a marketing regurgitation, myself. I don't get any of the guides that other reviewers get more often then not, as I wouldn't use them anyway (being a technical writer, those marketing documents are kind of useless to me), so I don't have any such information other than what's on the box of my X99 Deluxe.

I see MARKED difference in just memory OC, and power consumed. One of the _easily understandable_ differences would be the ability to push higher voltages, and that would appeal to users that might push LN2. But these pins aren't used JUST for voltage increases. That's only a few specific sets of the pins, whereas there are 6 added areas that pins have been added in the ASUS sockets. Going through the intel whitepapers explains which pins are used for what, partially.

ASUS X99 deluxe would not NEED these pins in such a case, since most users will not use them. The ROG board, sure.

At the same time, if this does void CPU warranty, and it's not explicitly stated _on the outside of the box_, ASUS is open to having their products pulled from the shelves here in Canada as an "infernal device".







(not really).


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> No, it's not that simple. I read that as a marketing regurgitation, myself. I don't get any of the guides that other reviewers get more often then not, as I wouldn't use them anyway (being a technical writer, those marketing documents are kind of useless to me), so I don't have any such information other than what's on the box of my X99 Deluxe.
> 
> I see MARKED difference in just memory OC, and power consumed. One of the _easily understandable_ differences would be the ability to push higher voltages, and that would appeal to users that might push LN2. But these pins aren't used JUST for voltage increases. That's only a few specific sets of the pins, whereas there are 6 added areas that pins have been added in the ASUS sockets. Going through the intel whitepapers explains which pins are used for what, partially.
> 
> ASUS X99 deluxe would not NEED these pins in such a case, since most users will not use them. The ROG board, sure.
> 
> At the same time, if this does void CPU warranty, and it's not explicitly stated _on the outside of the box_, ASUS is open to having their products pulled from the shelves here in Canada as an "infernal device".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (not really).


well, here in the US, non-compliance with authorized engineering in a product is bound to attract the lawyers. LOL.. 1-800-bad-mobo . We actually have adverts for 1-800-bad-drug!!

Hey - PM me with the link to your reviews, please.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You should only use the CPU_FAN header for your pump. Only CPU-FAN and CPU_OPT are PWM headers, and CPU_OPT is just a mirror of CPU_FAN. It cannot be controlled individually. All of the OPT_FAN and CHA_FAN headers are voltage controlled, as is typical for most mobos.


Sadly the pwn connector on my pump only reaches the cpu opt connector and the asus fan tuning wont detect its rpm range. May just have to set it at 50% in bios. I do have the heatsink for the pump but, i do not need it at 100%.


----------



## M11C

Hi guys, anybody has their board running with the EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock?









would like to hear how it compare with having 3 blocks for southbridge, cpu and VRM / MOSFET

also, if there are any clearense problems with large graphic cards in the top slot, using the monoblock.

and i was wondering, is the 2011 socket discontinued?

Btw. the x99 board looks awesome







can't wait to see teh R5BE


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M11C*
> 
> Hi guys, anybody has their board running with the EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would like to hear how it compare with having 3 blocks for southbridge, cpu and VRM / MOSFET
> 
> also, if there are any clearense problems with large graphic cards in the top slot, using the monoblock.
> 
> and i was wondering, is the 2011 socket discontinued?
> 
> Btw. the x99 board looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't wait to see teh R5BE


The monoblock is fine with a GPU in the first slot (no problem), I do not know how the temperature-difference is, but you probably save you some headache going with the "normal" version over the Monoblock (all the screws on my monoblock was too long and I RMAed it and ordered the "normal" blocks instead). The Monoblock does not look that good as EK-FB ASUS R4BE Acetal+Nickel + EK-Supremacy either so I am happy with the change.


----------



## skupples

wooooooooooh... Been a long time since I posted up in this club! I Feel like I have let all of you down, and I bet most of you weren't even here in the OG days when this was a news thread / hate on NCIX thread.... XD

I has returned!!!!!

My board has started acting up.









lots of hitching in 2D applications, decompression of files, stuffs like that.

Noticed I was STILL on the original bios, so I updated to 701, & redid my entire OC. Went with a 125 SKEW this time, so i'm sitting @ 4.8 & 2000mhz via skew, instead of straight multiplier tweaks... will see how this works.

as to the monoblock... I refuse to adapt this new trend, as it means a new block for a each new board, and we already HAVE To do that with GPUs... I much prefer using the same damn CPU block over & over again, since the CPU block innovation/improvements have all but stopped in the last 3-4 years. Though, those new EVO blocks could be nice, as they have finally changed the internals, but only a slight bit.


----------



## Mega Man

soon skups you wont have a choice, soon you will have to just buy mobos with cpus already soldered on. * shudder to think everytime you break something you have to buy a *960x + RIVE


----------



## skupples

I REFUSE TO BELIEVE! People have been saying that about high end intel chips FOR EVER.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I know this may seem far fetched but you guys that are upgrading to the x99, can you test this? :
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46486-X79-BIOS-bug-might-affect-all-x79-boards&p=431192&viewfull=1#post431192
> 
> Just try diff mem div's and make sure to power off after saving the settings, check the bandwith to see if there's a large gap between read and write speeds in aida64.
> The higher the cpu clock and higher the strap the better, say for example read perf is 60k, and write is 40k...
> I already saw a 50k/40k, 3.5ghz, looks affected but I'de like to see higher numbers to be sure.
> 
> Edit:
> Going out on a limb here, but I've been thinking more about it.
> 
> If the x99 is affected at 100 x 21.33
> The next lower would be 100 x 18.66, and that in theory would work.
> But 125 x 18.66 shouldn't work right.
> It would either be 125 x 16.66 (2082.5mhz) (if there exists such a thing I'de have to reset and check...), or 125 x 13.33 (1666.25mhz).
> And that's a pretty low speed for ddr4..., and at 125mhz strap you don't have idle voltages.
> Even though the platform is rated at 2133, it can only do 1866 officially, in a way.
> I know it's crazy but, I kinda would like to know...
> I know I'm only going by 1 screenshot on 1 review though...





Here is what I found with the 5960x


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the one thing i love about x99, they finnally did away with the ps2. not that i ever really starred at my io..... but i hate and always have hated ps2 since usb


The problem is USB standard is broken, and USB keyboards have problems transmitting 14 keys pressed simultaneously (and just happens when you learned how to use your chin for platformers). I really don't understand why USB keyboards simply don't transmit key pressed as an active bit in array, looks like committee had a brainfart.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M11C*
> 
> Hi guys, anybody has their board running with the EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would like to hear how it compare with having 3 blocks for southbridge, cpu and VRM / MOSFET
> 
> also, if there are any clearense problems with large graphic cards in the top slot, using the monoblock.
> 
> and i was wondering, is the 2011 socket discontinued?
> 
> Btw. the x99 board looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't wait to see teh R5BE


I ordered the monoblock because it has less tubing and looks great, however, it is 4-5 degrees hotter than my old EK full copper supremacy cpu block. I decided to leave the monoblock on and get two radiators that are bigger;Alphacool UT60. My old radiators are Koolance but they are 30mm thick, will see how it is when I order them.


----------



## skupples

UT60s tend to not fare much better than skinny rads, UNLESS you push enough air through them... at least, this has been my experience, i haven't looked at any tests.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> I ordered the monoblock because it has less tubing and looks great, however, it is 4-5 degrees hotter than my old EK full copper supremacy cpu block. I decided to leave the monoblock on and get two radiators that are bigger;Alphacool UT60. My old radiators are Koolance but they are 30mm thick, will see how it is when I order them.


I ordered the monoblock because it "supposedly" got lower temperatures on CPU than the EK-Supremacy did. I went from EK-Supremacy Nickel Clean CSQ with Noctua NT-H1 paste to EK-Supremacy Full Nickel Clean CSQ with Gelid GC-Extreme paste and my temperatures dropped about 5-8 degree Celsius just by choosing a block with more "passive" cooling than the plastic top on the EK-Supremacy, and of course the GC-Extreme. Less tubing is no good reason for me, I like to build loops that is a bit complex so more holes = more fun!







That sounds dirty!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> UT60s tend to not fare much better than skinny rads, UNLESS you push enough air through them... at least, this has been my experience, i haven't looked at any tests.


I have the same experience with my 2x 480 Monsta really, I guess I used too low rpm on my fans though, but those radiators got pretty hot and the passive cooling of the Monsta's are poor. I guess with high rpm fans (over 2000 rpm) they will do great, but that will a thinner radiator too.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> UT60s tend to not fare much better than skinny rads, UNLESS you push enough air through them... at least, this has been my experience, i haven't looked at any tests.


Really? You may have save me more than $250 on buying something I dont need, thank you!
Were you using the Gelid GC-Extreme paste on your cpu part of the MonoBlock too?
I have been looking for this paste and most everyone is out except for FeppaSpot, will try it in 15 days.
I started out with EK paste with problems, got Cooler Master paste and temp drop to 35 C ( no load, no overclock, room temp 25). Maybe GoBigOrGohome might have something and it may not be the blocks fault. Will let everyone know later


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yeah from a quick look, 1.44-45 VCCSA, nono.
> From my point of view, seems like he just maxed out everything without knowing what they do.


I had a feeling somebody like yourself was going to say that as yeah they looked pretty high to me, i wouldnt have run at those settings tbh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> that's promising!
> I'd take that x99 WS when you're through with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some friend....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My opinion - that chip is in the electric chair.
> yeah - frankly I'd never run my 4960x at those settings. offset and ultra LLC are not good together. AND VCCSA at 1.44V??? "Fully stable" to what? ... didn't turn into a flashbulb yet?
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Look bro. here's offset settings for 4.7 for a 4960X on the R4BE with bios 0602 (what i'm running 24/7). Enter these values and adjust them slightly to work with your CPU. Memory settings are absent 'cause you need to enter your's manually according to the memory spec (SPD ratings @ the mem frequency you use). Get this working and we can move up. Prefer fixed? set vcore to Manual and 1.330V. Set CPU power to auto. all else is the same.
> 
> 47offset4960x.zip 1645k .zip file
> 
> 
> I'd have to say that your "friend's" settings are .... well, krap.


Thanks for that and i knew you was gonna say those settings were crap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Pretty much the settings I've got, except that my offset voltage is higher even if in the end I'm at 1.33v Prime95, but that's because my chip is very low volt to begin with. (yeah I know I have the RIVE and not the black, same thing to me lol).
> I finally made a 4.8Ghz 1.41v Prime95 stable (1.384v most of the time in others demanding application) this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I didn't try to do yet, is lower the vccsa. I'm sitting at 1.12v right now and vtt at 1.1v. Still waiting good weather (cold) to try 4.9/2666+ bench profile.


Good info.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M11C*
> 
> Hi guys, anybody has their board running with the EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would like to hear how it compare with having 3 blocks for southbridge, cpu and VRM / MOSFET
> 
> also, if there are any clearense problems with large graphic cards in the top slot, using the monoblock.
> 
> and i was wondering, is the 2011 socket discontinued?
> 
> Btw. the x99 board looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't wait to see teh R5BE


I had a 380i in my possession but sent it back and purchased the monoblock. As far as i can see my temps are very good around mid 30s at 4.7ghz at 1000rpm fan speed. I have a watercooled fan controller.
Also my D5 pump i run on speed 2 because there is no restriction from other blocks apart from Koolance 690 block. Im happy with it, if you click on my link in my sig you can see the rig i built with the monoblock


----------



## =FIB=Goldberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M11C*
> 
> Hi guys, anybody has their board running with the EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would like to hear how it compare with having 3 blocks for southbridge, cpu and VRM / MOSFET
> 
> also, if there are any clearense problems with large graphic cards in the top slot, using the monoblock.
> 
> and i was wondering, Is the 2011 socket discontinued?
> 
> Btw. the x99 board looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't wait to see teh R5BE


running it and it works great

temps are good and no problems fitting cards





room temp is 24c. is this block better than the old one to be honest I dont know all I can say it keeps temps down. If you look at the PCH temp before the temp was around 42-43 now its the same temp as the motherboard . As for less hoses







and in my eyes it looks great


----------



## cky2k6

I'm just wondering if by some freak chance the monoblock would work on the rve...


----------



## NEOAethyr

I might of been right about the x99, because I've looked at a few board reviews now and they all have the same poor write bandwith.
From looks of it though it seems there are new bios'es out or coming out to fix it.

But anyways I played with the r4be a little bit today.
I recommend checking this post for notes from yesterday on the bandwith bug on the r4be:
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46486-X79-BIOS-bug-might-affect-all-x79-boards&p=431192&viewfull=1#post431192

To put it simply:
100mhz strap has full bandwith at 21.33 mem div, has bug on 24 mem div.
125mhz strap has full bandwith at 18.66 mem div, has bug on 21.33 mem div.

Notes from today:
Quote:


> looking again at the bios bug:
> 
> 0603 was the bios I had troubles trying to get the fix working at 114mhz bclk
> 0701 works fine, it's probably nothing, 0603 probably works too...
> 
> original fix + alt fix:
> 110mhz, assuming 40x cpu
> 
> set cpu to 38 (4180mhz)
> after save manually power off if it doesn't.
> set cpu to 40 (4400mhz) at 110 and set ram div lower at same time
> after save manually power off if it doesn't.
> set ram div higher and bandwith is good
> 
> alt fix:
> 100mhz, cpu set to 44x, ram set to 2400
> 
> set cpu to 42 (4200mhz)
> after save manually power off if it doesn't.
> set cpu to 44 (4400mhz) and set ram to 2133
> after save manually power off if it doesn't.
> set ram to 2400, good bandwith
> 
> newer fix:
> 100mhz, mem set to 2400 and cpu 44, or 43 who knows
> 
> set mem to 2133
> after save manually power off if it doesn't.
> set mem to 2400, good bandwith
> 
> things to try (... that I didn't...):
> 
> 114mhz, cpu set to 37x, mem set to 21.33x (2431mhz), already good bandwith
> 
> power off, then set mem div to 24x
> good bandwith?
> 
> long and through ver, if it works it might beable to be shortend:
> 
> set mem div to 24x
> after save manually power off if it doesn't.
> set cpu to 35x
> after save manually power off if it doesn't.
> set cpu to 37x and mem div at 21.33x
> after save manually power off if it doesn't.
> set mem to 24x
> good bandwith?
> 
> when I did the older tests at higher bclk, it was at 110mhz 24x mem, aka 2640mhz mem
> I was getting myself mixed up quite a bit..., anyways
> 114mhz 24x is 2736mhz mem, yet to be tested
> 
> what I did was set bclk to 110mhz, and set ram timings to 10-12-12
> I was at 37x cpu and 21.33x mem already at 114mhz bclk, 9-11-11 timings
> it power cycled on it's own after saving the settings, otherwise I would of power cycled for testing
> after powering back on I set ram div to 24x, aka 2640mhz, then booted windows, bandwith was good
> 0701 bios btw
> 
> so it does work, it's just the fix can be tricky if you don't understand it a little
> 
> loaded 114 profile, it power cycled
> set mem timings to 10-12-12
> it did not power cycle on it's own so I did it manually
> after powering back on, set ram div to 24x 2736mhz and mem volts to 1.7v
> bandwith was good, bsod'ed on me after the bench but ohwell, it's a ram thing
> I have to figure that out later, I haven't tested those speeds yet


I gotta work on 2736mhz mem.., and figure out the max highest cpu multi on watchdogs that's stable at stock volts.
I'm at 37x 114mhz, 4218mhz cpu, it's stable at 100mhz 43x, 4300mhz cpu
I gotta see if it's 114mhz 38x stable, 4332mhz cpu

Anyone got any tips for bandwith at those mem speeds, 2nd and 3rd timing wise?
They (2.6 and 2.7ghz) bench slightly lower on avg then 2400 c9.
Most of my timings are on auto, mains on 10-12-12 haven't checked for lower yet...


----------



## _REAPER_

Gentleman does anyone have solid OC settings on this board for 4.4ghz with Corsair Dominator Plat 2133mhz. I will be redeploying home for an extended timeframe finally. So I think I will finally get to utilize my PC for more than 2 weeks at a time.

Again Gentleman I appreciate the help regarding the above


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I might of been right about the x99, because I've looked at a few board reviews now and they all have the same poor write bandwith.
> From looks of it though it seems there are new bios'es out or coming out to fix it.


Meh. Noobs not pushing up the cache speed. base is 30x multi, whereas 4790K has 40x.

So, me, I've worked on it a bit. There's no problems here at all. What's more interesting is where the gains in memory and cache speed don't have any benefit.

I didn't post any OC numbers in my review that's been posted, because :

A) I knew some reviewers wouldn't know what to do, and would rather have them post the "fake" story and not give any hints

B) I posted a board review, not a CPU review,

C) BIOSes are a bit raw, for sure, but that's more about BCLK than it is about anything else. SO it will get better.

D) I'm the only reviewer that posted launch coverage with retail CPU. I was also one of the first with a review out.







ROFL.

And my proof:



AIDA64 needs an update, as does Futuremark products, or the system is not recognized properly. That screenshot was done with 4625 MHz on CPU, and 4500 Cache speed, both @ 1.3 V, but not fully voltage-optimized yet, could probably push cache voltage down a lot, maybe core voltage needs slight increase. What's even more interesting is SuperPi performance... although bench bandwidth is generally "less", performance is way better than on X79 with SB-E or IVB-E.

Cache write performance is a bit low, and this is rather odd to me, but, oh well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Gentleman does anyone have solid OC settings on this board for 4.4ghz with Corsair Dominator Plat 2133mhz. I will be redeploying home for an extended timeframe finally. So I think I will finally get to utilize my PC for more than 2 weeks at a time.
> 
> Again Gentleman I appreciate the help regarding the above


I can definitely help with that. 16 GB or 32 GB memory kit? Might take a few attempts at CPU speed, memory is no problem with 16 GB kit, got screenshots posted in this thread with "customized" timings many times in this thread, posted by me.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I ordered the monoblock because it "supposedly" got lower temperatures on CPU than the EK-Supremacy did. I went from EK-Supremacy Nickel Clean CSQ with Noctua NT-H1 paste to EK-Supremacy Full Nickel Clean CSQ with Gelid GC-Extreme paste and my temperatures dropped about 5-8 degree Celsius just by choosing a block with more "passive" cooling than the plastic top on the EK-Supremacy, and of course the GC-Extreme. Less tubing is no good reason for me, I like to build loops that is a bit complex so more holes = more fun!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That sounds dirty!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same experience with my 2x 480 Monsta really, I guess I used too low rpm on my fans though, but those radiators got pretty hot and the passive cooling of the Monsta's are poor. I guess with high rpm fans (over 2000 rpm) they will do great, but that will a thinner radiator too.


Were you using the Gelid GC-Extreme paste on your cpu part of the MonoBlock too?
I have been looking for this paste and most everyone is out except for FeppaSpot, will try it in 15 days.
I started out with EK paste with problems, got Cooler Master paste and temp drop to 35 C ( no load, no overclock, room temp 25). Maybe you might have something and it may not be the blocks fault. Will let everyone know later


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Meh. Noobs not pushing up the cache speed. base is 30x multi, whereas 4790K has 40x.


I noticed the nb clock is at 3ghz on the guru3d review, thought that was odd.
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/core_i7_5960x_5930k_and_5820k_processor_review,13.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 
> 
> AIDA64 needs an update, as does Futuremark products, or the system is not recognized properly. That screenshot was done with 4625 MHz on CPU, and 4500 Cache speed, both @ 1.3 V, but not fully voltage-optimized yet, could probably push cache voltage down a lot, maybe core voltage needs slight increase. What's even more interesting is SuperPi performance... although bench bandwidth is generally "less", performance is way better than on X79 with SB-E or IVB-E.
> 
> Cache write performance is a bit low, and this is rather odd to me, but, oh well.
> I can definitely help with that. 16 GB or 32 GB memory kit? Might take a few attempts at CPU speed, memory is no problem with 16 GB kit, got screenshots posted in this thread with "customized" timings many times in this thread, posted by me.


Looks good to me.
The lower write 'cache' speed seems normal







.

I was looking this thread and I was wondering what they were talking about with older bios'es:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?289514-(DDR4)-Micron-D9RGQ

But everything on your screenshot seems ok so whatever







.
It's nice they're finally coming out with 8 cores on the consumer cpu market, but still to expensive lol.
Looking like it's gonna be some good times ahead though when they do finally drop in price, and ddr4 matures in speed/latency and density.

Now hopefully they'll fix the r4be...
I know how to get around it now it seems like.

I'de like to figure out the skew rate thing.
Because I've got it to boot at non bootable bclk's before messing with with them.
Didn't manage to save what worked though..., I started messing with them more and lost the settings.
I would like to push it past 114mhz bclk.
Still haven't verified past 2640mhz mem though, haven't tried.

Do you have any ideas of what the mem wants for around 2800?, it's a samsung 2400 c9 set.
I haven't messed with yet that's why I'm curious.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Were you using the Gelid GC-Extreme paste on your cpu part of the MonoBlock too?
> 
> I have been looking for this paste and most everyone is out except for FeppaSpot, will try it in 15 days.
> 
> I started out with EK paste with problems, got Cooler Master paste and temp drop to 35 C ( no load, no overclock, room temp 25). Maybe you might have something and it may not be the blocks fault. Will let everyone know later


I got two packs with the Gelid GC-Extreme (cheaper than the Noctua NT-H1 too), I am very happy with it. I never got that far that I turned the computer on, so I do not think I used the GC-Extreme (did not wanted to waste any). I do have the GC-Extreme on the GPU's, CPU and Chipset/Mosfet though.

If anyone would like to know how it looks I have VERY detailed pictures of the screws on the Monoblock (had to send pictures to EKWB).

Anyone has any recommendations for memory sticks that can do 2400/2666 Mhz stable? I cannot use Dominator Platinums (because I am using EK-Dominator X4-blocks) and need to get RAM with removeable heat-spreaders. I am thinking 4x 8GB Kingston HyperX 2400Mhz 32GB total, then I just put on my EK-Monarch Modules on those and use the memory-blocks on those. The plus with the Kingston is that it is only 425 USD, while the 32 GB Dominator Platinum 2400/2666 Mhz are 870 USD.


----------



## skupples

high memory + high CPU clocks = major pain in the ass with this board, more so because of IVy & Sandy than the board its self, I would think.

iv'e gone the opposite direction with mine. I have 32GB of 2400mhz, but I could NEVER get that stable at anything above 4.0ghz, so I decided to go with 1866 with relatively low timings, which i'm still tweaking.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> high memory + high CPU clocks = major pain in the ass with this board, more so because of IVy & Sandy than the board its self, I would think.
> 
> iv'e gone the opposite direction with mine. I have 32GB of 2400mhz, but I could NEVER get that stable at anything above 4.0ghz, so I decided to go with 1866 with relatively low timings, which i'm still tweaking.


I am in kind of a deal for a second-handed CPU that can do at least 4,8 Ghz with 2666 Mhz memory sticks (with the RIVBE), that is the main reason I am doing the upgrade and when I first tear my loop down I would rather change the memory-sticks right away (kind of a pita to take it apart and hook it back up again).

I have to investigate if the chip will do 2666 Mhz with 4x 8GB sticks though.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have to investigate if the chip will do 2666 Mhz with 4x 8GB sticks though.


Not likely. 8 GB stick clocking is the real CPU OC killer.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> UT60s tend to not fare much better than skinny rads, UNLESS you push enough air through them... at least, this has been my experience, i haven't looked at any tests.


correct
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Gentleman does anyone have solid OC settings on this board for 4.4ghz with Corsair Dominator Plat 2133mhz. I will be redeploying home for an extended timeframe finally. So I think I will finally get to utilize my PC for more than 2 weeks at a time.
> 
> Again Gentleman I appreciate the help regarding the above


welcome home ! thanks again for your service,


----------



## Fidelitas

$579.00 for a brand new 4930K at Newegg


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yeah - A modest, rock-solid OC (4.6-4.7+/-) is easier that most users think. Folks get into" paralysis by analysis", expect to hit 4.9 and 5.0 on day one (with "someone's" settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) tweak waay too many parameters - cause they're there - and get frustrated either because their system is unstable when _really_ used or degrade their cpu and blame the hardware. Granted, all silicon is not equal... but not that different either. IDK, once the K/X-type chips came out with unlocked multipliers it got simple.
> For everyday and gaming, use the tech Intel built into the chips. For benchmarking... may be best to go old school and lock the frequency and vcore.
> 
> IMO - 1.12V VCCSA is good forever same with VTT @ 1.1V. And 1.384 for 4.9 is fantastic!!


As usual, your right on the money. Using your settings I was able to clock mine at 4.7ghz with no problem at all. Additionally, adding to the turbo voltage actually brought my temps down to what it usually runs at 4.4ghz. Amazing.


----------



## skupples

rebuilding your system around memory? seems futile, unless you are a competitive memory OCer.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Not likely. 8 GB stick clocking is the real CPU OC killer.


It seems like it has been done on 2x 8GB sticks (not sure though), I will have an answer to you soon. Personally I have no idea how bad 8GB sticks are, I only have 4GB sticks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> rebuilding your system around memory? seems futile, unless you are a competitive memory OCer.


If this is meant as a reply to what I wrote earlier about changing the memory sticks while I had my loop teared down, I have to say that a "memory-upgrade" has been in the planning stage since I got the motherboard. I just wanted to wait on DDR4 and X99, but I am not going to buy that so I might just buy more DDR3 RAM. The sticks I have now is a "unmatched" pair that run in quad channel, that is not supported by the DRAM-file from ASUS. The system will not be rebuild around the memory, it will just be teared down and builded up again (same loop with the exact same components and stuff). I am not a competitive memory OCer, no, I just do not want any kind of "bottlenecks" or anything with my system.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Double post.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I am not a competitive memory OCer, no, I just do not want any kind of "bottlenecks" or anything with my system.


I think the point that skupps here was on about is that even 2133 MHz has proven to not be a bottleneck over time. 1866 is good too, but if you are running multiple GPUs, 2133 MHz seems the sweet spot for both price, ease of set-up, and performance.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I think the point that skupps here was on about is that even 2133 MHz has proven to not be a bottleneck over time. 1866 is good too, but if you are running multiple GPUs, 2133 MHz seems the sweet spot for both price, ease of set-up, and performance.


iv'e been beating the hell out of my board to get me stable @ 2133MHz, after updating bios... So, for now, I have resigned to 1866 @ cas 9 until I can be arsed to get back into the bios to try to crank it back up.

but yes, that was basically my point. Spending money on 2666MHZ DDR3, specially on a platform where getting it to work is extremely hit or miss, just seems like a waste.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I think the point that skupps here was on about is that even 2133 MHz has proven to not be a bottleneck over time. 1866 is good too, but if you are running multiple GPUs, 2133 MHz seems the sweet spot for both price, ease of set-up, and performance.


I understand what you are saying, but I hope I might get the chance to get my memory higher than 2133 Mhz.

If it is a PITA to set-up I might end up using 2133 Mhz, but then I have the opportunity to try to tweak it at higher speeds if I want to do that.

As of prices in Norway, the 2400 Mhz Kingston 32GB (4x 8GB) is cheaper than both 1866Mhz and 2133Mhz of the same sticks. I have to wait until I am able to scratch together the money for the RAM and CPU and then tell you guys how it do and which settings I should use.

If you guys do not mind me asking, how big of a difference would I probably notice (if I notice it) with 2133 Mhz versus 2666 Mhz RAM speeds for example? At same CPU-overclock. Would it improve FPS in games? And by how much?


----------



## cadaveca

FPS..3-5 AT most.

Using AIDA64, you're looking @ about 10k MB/sec in all areas...read/write/copy.


----------



## M11C

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=FIB=Goldberg*
> 
> running it and it works great
> 
> temps are good and no problems fitting cards
> 
> room temp is 24c. is this block better than the old one to be honest I dont know all I can say it keeps temps down. If you look at the PCH temp before the temp was around 42-43 now its the same temp as the motherboard . As for less hoses
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and in my eyes it looks great


just lost my post... *sigh* oh well, it was kinda like:

nice to hear, but does the monoblock use the same micro chaannels as the supremecy?

i like the look of the supremecy full cobber, but think the mofset cooler looks kinda ugly.

in regards to cooling, are there any pros for running 2x dual radiators over quad radiator?

and what would roughly be the cost of a cpu loop, using EK parts? (maybe i'll be using the monoblock)

also, kinda off topic, but again not really, would someone have a look at my post here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1510338/4820k-optimizing-and-overclocking
i have a feeling i might have posted the wrong place...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I understand what you are saying, but I hope I might get the chance to get my memory higher than 2133 Mhz.
> 
> If it is a PITA to set-up I might end up using 2133 Mhz, but then I have the opportunity to try to tweak it at higher speeds if I want to do that.
> 
> As of prices in Norway, the 2400 Mhz Kingston 32GB (4x 8GB) is cheaper than both 1866Mhz and 2133Mhz of the same sticks. I have to wait until I am able to scratch together the money for the RAM and CPU and then tell you guys how it do and which settings I should use.
> 
> If you guys do not mind me asking, how big of a difference would I probably notice (if I notice it) with 2133 Mhz versus 2666 Mhz RAM speeds for example? At same CPU-overclock. Would it improve FPS in games? And by how much?


welp, tests show 2-3 FPS increase from 1866 C9 to 24000 C10, sooooooooooo.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> welp, tests show 2-3 FPS increase from 1866 C9 to 24000 C10, sooooooooooo.


depends on the number of VGAs how big the increase is. As you flood the memory bus with traffic from GPUs, the importance of memory at high speeds increases.

That said... meh.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> depends on the number of VGAs how big the increase is. As you flood the memory bus with traffic from GPUs, the importance of memory at high speeds increases.
> 
> That said... meh.


Not that I don't believe you, iv'e just never taken the time / seen anyone actually bench this out. I'm running tri-titans in 5760x1080P, and I haven't seen any difference on my newly lowered 1866 c9 setting compared to when I was running 2133 @ c10.... Though, i never took the time to go through all of the secondary / tertiary timings.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not that I don't believe you, iv'e just never taken the time / seen anyone actually bench this out. I'm running tri-titans in 5760x1080P, and I haven't seen any difference on my newly lowered 1866 c9 setting compared to when I was running 2133 @ c10.... Though, i never took the time to go through all of the secondary / tertiary timings.


Tertiary timings are where the big bandwidth differences are held, as was seen earlier in the thread.

And yeah, some apps see no difference...some see huge differences...some see medium. Ultimately, high-speed memory does serve a purpose overall, but like you mentioned earlier, you've gotta balance that need vs your primary uses, and whether maybe CPU speed is more important, or whatever.

I mean, I don't care how you guys spend your money...

And I do have WAY more hardware than most, so it's not like I care about brands, or cost, or whatever... I just care about the truth. Like...who geeks out on PC hardware so hard they keep as much stuff as I do? I dunno anyone that does. That "geeking out" for me, is checking all those things out that people argue so much over, and what some sites say VS what is marketing, and what's nonsense, and what's really there that hold value for our dollars.


----------



## unlimited

Is there any sence to upgrade from RIVBE to RVE ?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unlimited*
> 
> Is there any sence to upgrade from RIVBE to RVE ?


Yes, if you want the high-speed drive interfaces. To me, all the nonsense about DDR4 being slower than DDR3 is just that...nonsense. If you got the cash, and are going to go hard on SATA Express and M.2 drives, you gotta either go RVE, or X99 DELUXE. Which one provides the best drive interfaces should be what dictates THAT choice. You'l lget lower overall power consumption, faster drives, and better CPU performance, too.

If you have RIVBE already...many, spending all that cash to swap platforms... If ya got money to burn, sure. If you got other expenses, you aren't really missing that much at all. I'm personally staying on RIVBE.


----------



## skupples

speaking of earlier in this thread... we need to dethrone luna as OP, as the original post is now extremely lacking in pertinent info... surfing back to find all that user experience / data on tertiary timing tweaking would be a major pain... the kind of thing you link to in an OP.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> FPS..3-5 AT most.
> 
> Using AIDA64, you're looking @ about 10k MB/sec in all areas...read/write/copy.


Wow, that is more than I expected actually, well it depends on what OC I could get out of everything too I guess.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> welp, tests show 2-3 FPS increase from 1866 C9 to 24000 C10, sooooooooooo.


Is the FPS more stable (high dips of FPS?)?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> depends on the number of VGAs how big the increase is. As you flood the memory bus with traffic from GPUs, the importance of memory at high speeds increases.
> 
> That said... meh.


I could try and see how much of a difference it make. I will try to OC my cards good on custom bios when I am up and running again to squeeze a bit more frames out of it. It is doing OKAY now, too, but in BF4 it performs bad of course, I saw a small FPS increase from 4,5 Ghz to 4,6 Ghz on the CPU with my cards at 1100/1300, so I guess with 4,7/4,8 Ghz I should see a couple more FPS, and with 2133/2400/2666 Mhz RAM even a few more frames that would maybe be near to 10 FPS if I am lucky.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Wow, that is more than I expected actually, well it depends on what OC I could get out of everything too I guess.
> Is the FPS more stable (high dips of FPS?)?
> I could try and see how much of a difference it make. I will try to OC my cards good on custom bios when I am up and running again to squeeze a bit more frames out of it. It is doing OKAY now, too, but in BF4 it performs bad of course, I saw a small FPS increase from 4,5 Ghz to 4,6 Ghz on the CPU with my cards at 1100/1300, so I guess with 4,7/4,8 Ghz I should see a couple more FPS, and with 2133/2400/2666 Mhz RAM even a few more frames that would maybe be near to 10 FPS if I am lucky.


Going to try to find the numbers i'm referring to... You don't really see allot of people benching out the difference in memory timings, when it comes to gaming.

the quick go to video (shudders) is a linus tech tips video where they bench out 1866cas9 vs. 2400 cas 10(maybe 11) and their findings showed 1-2 fps difference, which is within margin of error.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> speaking of earlier in this thread... we need to dethrone luna as OP, as the original post is now extremely lacking in pertinent info... surfing back to find all that user experience / data on tertiary timing tweaking would be a major pain in the ass... the kind of thing you link to in an OP.


I agree. It has been over 4 weeks since I posted as required to join the RIVBE Club and I have never heard a word from the moderator....


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Going to try to find the numbers i'm referring to... You don't really see allot of people benching out the difference in memory timings, when it comes to gaming.
> 
> the quick go to video (shudders) is a linus tech tips video where they bench out 1866cas9 vs. 2400 cas 10(maybe 11) and their findings showed 1-2 fps difference, which is within margin of error.


Honestly, it'd be a pretty large task. Basically, the more DX9-like, the more memory matters in pure FPS. If you are only getting 45 FPS to begin with, 3 FPS is a fairly large number, but with 200 FPS it is not. Then there's the whole thing about minimums caused by a bottleneck, the type of VGAs used, the platform used, etc, etc, etc.

obvious titles with greater CPU-memory-GPU interaction are going to see greater effects from memory increases. GPUs get their data from system ram directly. It's just how it works.

Now, is it so much you should pay 3x the cost? I dunno about that.

Meanwhile, I'm sitting here working on a high-speed memory review. ROFL. Thanks for the conversation to make the review writing easier...


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Honestly, it'd be a pretty large task. Basically, the more DX9-like, the more memory matters in pure FPS. If you are only getting 45 FPS to begin with, 3 FPS is a fairly large number, but with 200 FPS it is not. Then there's the whole thing about minimums caused by a bottleneck, the type of VGAs used, the platform used, etc, etc, etc.
> 
> obvious titles with greater CPU-memory-GPU interaction are going to see greater effects from memory increases. GPUs get their data from system ram directly. It's just how it works.
> 
> Now, is it so much you should pay 3x the cost? I dunno about that.
> 
> Meanwhile, I'm sitting here working on a high-speed memory review. ROFL. Thanks for the conversation to make the review writing easier...


Is there any settings on the RIVBE that directly affect GPU performance?


----------



## Jpmboy

Sorry for itypos. On my ipad riding in a car trailer...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> It seems like it has been done on 2x 8GB sticks (not sure though), I will have an answer to you soon. Personally I have no idea how bad 8GB sticks are, I only have 4GB sticks.
> If this is meant as a reply to what I wrote earlier about changing the memory sticks while I had my loop teared down, I have to say that a "memory-upgrade" has been in the planning stage since I got the motherboard. I just wanted to wait on DDR4 and X99, but I am not going to buy that so I might just buy more DDR3 RAM. The sticks I have now is a "unmatched" pair that run in quad channel, that is not supported by the DRAM-file from ASUS. The system will not be rebuild around the memory, it will just be teared down and builded up again (same loop with the exact same components and stuff). I am not a competitive memory OCer, no, I just do not want any kind of "bottlenecks" or anything with my system.


i'm not convinced 32GB will help with anything of normal use... But it will cause all sorts of OC issues. Ram disk is one thing, gaming or work operations rarely use even 12GB. You'd do better by selling the 8GB sticks and buying any other 4x4 kit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> iv'e been beating the hell out of my board to get me stable @ 2133MHz, after updating bios... So, for now, I have resigned to 1866 @ cas 9 until I can be arsed to get back into the bios to try to crank it back up
> 
> but yes, that was basically my point. Spending money on 2666MHZ DDR3, specially on a platform where getting it to work is extremely hit or miss, just seems like a waste.


Hey bud, lot's of talk about the hellcat... All good but none were running the SC loop today.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> As usual, your right on the money. Using your settings I was able to clock mine at 4.7ghz with no problem at all. Additionally, adding to the turbo voltage actually brought my temps down to what it usually runs at 4.4ghz. Amazing.


Very good to hear that









A borked up bclk/pcie clock maybe can affect vga performance. Waht card and how many?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Sorry for itypos. On my ipad riding in a car trailer...
> i'm not convinced 32GB will help with anything of normal use... But it will cause all sorts of OC issues. Ram disk is one thing, gaming or work operations rarely use even 12GB. You'd do better by selling the 8GB sticks and buying any other 4x4 kit.
> Hey bud, lot's of talk about the hellcat... All good but none were running the SC loop today.
> Very good to hear that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A borked up bclk/pcie clock maybe can affect vga performance. Waht card and how many?


EVGA 780SC x3. Hey, when going up or down in processor ghz, how do you calculate additional turbo voltage and or vcore offset?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Sorry for itypos. On my ipad riding in a car trailer...
> i'm not convinced 32GB will help with anything of normal use... But it will cause all sorts of OC issues. Ram disk is one thing, gaming or work operations rarely use even 12GB. You'd do better by selling the 8GB sticks and buying any other 4x4 kit.
> Hey bud, lot's of talk about the hellcat... All good but none were running the SC loop today.
> Very good to hear that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A borked up bclk/pcie clock maybe can affect vga performance. Waht card and how many?


What?! I feel bad... Hellcat comment totally over my head...







Which SC?

Anyways... I have dropped a PM to $ilent to reassign the OP... Who wants dibs?


----------



## Fidelitas

Originally Posted by Gobigorgohome View Post

It seems like it has been done on 2x 8GB sticks (not sure though), I will have an answer to you soon. Personally I have no idea how bad 8GB sticks are, I only have 4GB sticks.
If this is meant as a reply to what I wrote earlier about changing the memory sticks while I had my loop teared down, I have to say that a "memory-upgrade" has been in the planning stage since I got the motherboard. I just wanted to wait on DDR4 and X99, but I am not going to buy that so I might just buy more DDR3 RAM. The sticks I have now is a "unmatched" pair that run in quad channel, that is not supported by the DRAM-file from ASUS. The system will not be rebuild around the memory, it will just be teared down and builded up again (same loop with the exact same components and stuff). I am not a competitive memory OCer, no, I just do not want any kind of "bottlenecks" or anything with my system.f

I had 8x8gb sticks in my system at one time and four of them now. I have been at 1333 all the way up to 2400 with them. They seem to run the best at 2133. The only significant adjustment I had to make with them when I had 8 was cranking my vcssa up to 1.15 to perk them up some. I run 32gb of 4x8gb in a quad channel with 1.05 vscca. Anything under 1.05 vcssa and their performance tanks.


----------



## skupples

hmmm.... it may be time to set the 3930k off to sea... Just need to find a 4960x or something at a decent price.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What?! I feel bad... Hellcat comment totally over my head...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which SC?


That's too bad, because I got it







I won't bother to explain though. ROFL.

I'll post this instead:











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hmmm.... it may be time to set the 3930k off to sea... Just need to find a 4960x or something at a decent price.


I wish I could sell one of mine, but I have ES, and maybe Intel will ask for it back.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> EVGA 780SC x3. Hey, when going up or down in processor ghz, how do you calculate additional turbo voltage and or vcore offset?


No need to run offset any higher than 5 or 10 mV. Each 100MHz costs roughly 10 MV per operating core depending where you are on that specific processors curve. May be as low as 7 or as high as 15.... Or never enough mV









You can deliver the voltage in anyway you choose, fixed or offset/turbo Remember, offset adds mV to idle and load, turbo adds only to the load voltage. That's whats nice about dynamic load voltage. Just keep LLc as low as you can.

What issue are you having with gpu performance? Not using one of those EVGA lighted sli bridges are ya?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hmmm.... it may be time to set the 3930k off to sea... Just need to find a 4960x or something at a decent price.


Eh, your post in the x99 thread.... I think.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Eh, your post in the x99 thread.... I think.


I don't.... I don't remember posting in the x99 thread... on this forum...


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hmmm.... it may be time to set the 3930k off to sea... Just need to find a 4960x or something at a decent price.


For whatever it is worth, unless your just looking for bragging rights, either stick with the 3930 or buy a 4930K. I have both the 4930K and the 4960X and for the difference in money, the 4930K makes better sense. There is just not enough performance difference in the two to justify the extra $500.00 for the 4960X. However, the difference between the 4930K and the 3930, definitely justifies the cost to upgrade.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> For whatever it is worth, unless you just looking for bragging rights, either stick with the 3930 or buy a 4930K. I have both the 4930K and the 4960X and for the difference in money, the 4930K makes better sense. There is just not enough performance difference in the two to justify the extra $500.00 for the 4960X. However, the difference between the 4930K and the 3930, definitely justifies the cost to upgrade.


I probably wouldn't be acquiring one new. I tend to pickup used CPUs, and then re-insure them with the Intel OC'ers warranty. I would only spring on a 4960x if it could be had for under $700... If not, I would just hunt down a used 4930k... My only stipulation would be finding one from a more recent stepping, and of course, POP and original box, so that it can be reinsured.


----------



## cadaveca

Tuning Plan is transferrable, so you have good chance on that one, and it's probably the best way to go, too.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I don't.... I don't remember posting in the x99 thread... on this forum...


My bad, it was szeged. Oops. ....step away from the keyboard jp."


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> No need to run offset any higher than 5 or 10 mV. Each 100MHz costs roughly 10 MV per operating core depending where you are on that specific processors curve. May be as low as 7 or as high as 15.... Or never enough mV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can deliver the voltage in anyway you choose, fixed or offset/turbo Remember, offset adds mV to idle and load, turbo adds only to the load voltage. That's whats nice about dynamic load voltage. Just keep LLc as low as you can.
> 
> What issue are you having with gpu performance? Not using one of those EVGA lighted sli bridges are ya?


Yes, I am using the lighted bridge. When you mention LLc, what are you talking about. My VID went down significantly using the offset and turbo voltage. I am down to 1.340 on it at 4.7ghz 47x100 Any suggestions on how to bring it down further?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> My bad, it was szeged. Oops. ....step away from the keyboard jp."


Lololol








While we're on the subject of cars, posting this from the inside of a 458 spider on my way back to Tallahassee from Pensacola. such a beast but I still prefer American v8s lol.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Tuning Plan is transferrable, so you have good chance on that one, and it's probably the best way to go, too.


it would also allow me to cash in my current 3930k for a BNIB unit to then flip on ebay for ~$400 back.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> My bad, it was szeged. Oops. ....step away from the keyboard jp."


I can see where the confusion would come from... both living in florida and all... Only thing is, Z lives in South Georgia.


----------



## szeged

North Fla = -deleted bad word - lower Alabama lol.

Florida, the only place in the world where the more north you go, the more south you get.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> North Fla = -deleted bad word - lower Alabama lol.
> 
> Florida, the only place in the world where the more north you go, the more south you get.


I agree on that


----------



## skupples

We call it the Sweet Tea line down here in Miami.


----------



## szeged

Say what you will but southern food is some of the best lol.

Peach sweet tea and fried chicken.... Mmm.


----------



## cadaveca

ROFL. Oh, the humanity.

What's the story about the lit bridges? They causing some issues for many users? I had some problems, then flipped it upside down, after unscrewing the plastic and putting it on the right way up again....

I seem to recall getting asked why I used my bridge upside down..


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Yes, I am using the lighted bridge. When you mention LLc, what are you talking about. My VID went down significantly using the offset and turbo voltage. I am down to 1.340 on it at 4.7ghz 47x100 Any suggestions on how to bring it down further?


way too many have been causing problems. Swap the lighted bridge for the ASUS that came with your mobo. Ignore the VID once you start using offset... it's meaningless. Lower turbo voltage until it's not stable, then add 1-2 notches to CPU PLL , up to 1.85 at most. Might lower it by a few mV. is 1.34 the p95 load voltage measured off the mobo or cpuZ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Lololol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While we're on the subject of cars, posting this from the inside of a 458 spider on my way back to Tallahassee from Pensacola. such a beast but I still prefer American v8s lol.


nice ride that spider! last one i saw was in my rearview mirror.








($10,000 first service - I believe )
"Arrest me Red" ! Anyway I hope to see onre of the new mopar supercharged cars next month. Exhausted right now (3AM drive to Pocono) .. .need sleep.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> North Fla = -deleted bad word - lower Alabama lol.
> Florida, the only place in the world where the more north you go, the more south you get.


This was worth the price of admission
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We call it the Sweet Tea line down here in Miami.


no.. this was


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> speaking of earlier in this thread... we need to dethrone luna as OP, as the original post is now extremely lacking in pertinent info... surfing back to find all that user experience / data on tertiary timing tweaking would be a major pain... the kind of thing you link to in an OP.


OP needs to be AWOL for at least a couple of months, (LunaP - Last Online: on 7/19/14) and attempts have to be made to contact OP to get their take on the situation. If they are agreeable to a change, the potential new OP needs to be approved by a section editor (or if there isn't one, by senior staff). If the OP is AWOL for months and cannot be contacted need that same approval level.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> way too many have been causing problems. Swap the lighted bridge for the ASUS that came with your mobo. Ignore the VID once you start using offset... it's meaningless. Lower turbo voltage until it's not stable, then add 1-2 notches to CPU PLL , up to 1.85 at most. Might lower it by a few mV. is 1.34 the p95 load voltage measured off the mobo or cpuZ?
> nice ride that spider! last one i saw was in my rearview mirror.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ($10,000 first service - I believe )
> "Arrest me Red" ! Anyway I hope to see onre of the new mopar supercharged cars next month. Exhausted right now (3AM drive to Pocono) .. .need sleep.
> This was worth the price of admission
> no.. this was


I am using the CPUz as a reference to core voltage and core temp for VID. I am currently at 1.85 on the pll with pll overvoltage enabled. I have my turbo voltage set at 0.0068 and my offset at +5. My
vscca is set to 1.05 and my other settings are identical to the ones you posted. It is Prime95 stable at those settings. I have not tried to back off the turbo voltage because I am pretty sure that I am low as I can get on all settings now, but I will give it a try. My Firestrike score with 3 780SC's is coming in at 21786. When I was using 64gb or RAM, I hit 22581 one time. I don't remember if I had the bridge then or not, but I am going to definitely yank it off, put on the ASUS bridge and see how it scores there. For not overclocking my gpu's my scores seem to be pretty good but I have not seen a similar set up to compare against. Most people with sense, buy the 780ti's, which is what I wish I had the money for. However, this rig was a gift from my dad, so I guess I really have nothing to complain about. The only thing I have done with it was removed 32 of 64gb or RAM and changed the processor from a 4930K to a 4960X, also a waste of money. Should of bought some better RAM or put away to buy better video cards. My other rig has a couple of Radeon 295's in it that are quite impressive.



Better with the Asus bridge. Thank you again. The EVGA bridge looks great in there but it does mess with the cards. I think I will just glue it on the Asus bridge and call it good without the light...lol


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> OP needs to be AWOL for at least a couple of months, (LunaP - Last Online: on 7/19/14) and attempts have to be made to contact OP to get their take on the situation. If they are agreeable to a change, the potential new OP needs to be approved by a section editor (or if there isn't one, by senior staff). If the OP is AWOL for months and cannot be contacted need that same approval level.


Thanks for clarification.

Would be nice to have the original post actually USEFUL, but i'm not sure anyone around here is willing to jump to the task.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> OP needs to be AWOL for at least a couple of months, (LunaP - Last Online: on 7/19/14) and attempts have to be made to contact OP to get their take on the situation. If they are agreeable to a change, the potential new OP needs to be approved by a section editor (or if there isn't one, by senior staff). If the OP is AWOL for months and cannot be contacted need that same approval level.


So how long is months lol? 2, 3 It kinda sucks to see the group die from an inactive op.

I guess the real question is anyone actually up to the task lol.


----------



## alancsalt

If someone was interested, then the first thing would be to attempt to contact LunaP to see if he was interested in passing the thread to a new OP. That's the starting point.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> If someone was interested, then the first thing would be to attempt to contact LunaP to see if he was interested in passing the thread to a new OP. That's the starting point.


I'm on it... I actually PMed him a few months back, with no response... So i'm not sure what his deal is... Admittedly, the topic was work related, not ocn thread OP related.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Say what you will but southern food is some of the best lol.
> 
> Peach sweet tea and fried chicken.... Mmm.











Post a pic for


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> ROFL. Oh, the humanity.
> 
> What's the story about the lit bridges? They causing some issues for many users? I had some problems, then flipped it upside down, after unscrewing the plastic and putting it on the right way up again....
> 
> I seem to recall getting asked why I used my bridge upside down..


wait, what did you do to the bridge to make it hold up under heavy load?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Which memory sticks should I buy to pair with the second-handed CPU? I have 4x 4GB Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866 Mhz now, just keep it or get 4x 4GB Kingston Hyperx 2400 Mhz?


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi Jpmboy !
> 
> I run -0.060 Offset and 0.223V turbo.
> Idle 0.719V 1200MHz and Prime Load 0.792V 1200MHz
> and 0.992V 3400MHz Prime Load. (VMM)
> You shut try, it it's amazing !
> 
> My complete system in idle at 109 watts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also measured with a
> http://www.conrad.nl/nl/voltcraft-energy-monitor-3000-energiekostenmeter-lcd-0001-15000-kwh-2376-h-125331.html
> 
> OC and undervolting in one configuration, love it !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have show me the additional turbo voltage setting
> 
> Thx for your advice !


Hi there man.
Would you be so kind in posting your settings for this please so I can see exactly what you have?
Would you mind posting pictures of your bios please?

@Jpmboy I will be using and testing your settings also, I will post back with findings when I do


----------



## Jpmboy

"be advised"... every chip is different and will require slightly different voltages. But the principles are the same.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post a pic for


i would, but i ate it all


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i would, but i ate it all


Bitter disappointment , expected moar from you


----------



## Fidelitas

What you say makes very good sense, however, Intel does not knowingly offer OC insurance for used processors. If you had a problem with one you buy used, insure it and then later have to file a claim, in most states, you would have to file a fraudulent insurance claim to collect. ( a felony in many states for anything over $500.00)


----------



## V3teran

Ok my fellow Overclockers *i have a question for all of you!*
What is the best bios for the R4BE and why?
Your answers please as i want to ttry to run with the best!
Many thanks and much appreciated!


----------



## szeged

whatever works best for you







im still using the stock launch bios that came with the board and have absolutely no problems with it, cpu is stable at 4.9ghz like the day i got it, 10 months later.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Hi V3teran
Quote:


> Hi there man.
> Would you be so kind in posting your settings for this please so I can see exactly what you have?
> Would you mind posting pictures of your bios please?


Sure but at the moment iam running out of time. But in the next few days i will do this for you. I hope this is ok ! I don´t forget you


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> whatever works best for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im still using the stock launch bios that came with the board and have absolutely no problems with it, cpu is stable at 4.9ghz like the day i got it, 10 months later.


Ok, the thing is i have heard some people say that the 502 bios is better for volting, overclocks work with lower voltage apparently. Im currently on 602 bios.
It would be nice to have some other opinions also, thanks btw








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi V3teran
> Sure but at the moment iam running out of time. But in the next few days i will do this for you. I hope this is ok ! I don´t forget you


Ok no problem, take your time, no rush.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> What you say makes very good sense, however, Intel does not knowingly offer OC insurance for used processors. If you had a problem with one you buy used, insure it and then later have to file a claim, in most states, you would have to file a fraudulent insurance claim to collect. ( a felony in many states for anything over $500.00)


I'm referencing the Intel Tuning Plan

It's an extended warranty for chips that have been driven out of spec. Basically, its an honesty system, since its pretty easy to get a damaged from overclocking chip replaced anyways. This just makes it a painless process, compared to having to deal with the shoddy basic customer service.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> whatever works best for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im still using the stock launch bios that came with the board and have absolutely no problems with it, cpu is stable at 4.9ghz like the day i got it, 10 months later.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, the thing is i have heard some people say that the 502 bios is better for volting, overclocks work with lower voltage apparently. Im currently on 602 bios.
> It would be nice to have some other opinions also, thanks btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi V3teran
> Sure but at the moment iam running out of time. But in the next few days i will do this for you. I hope this is ok ! I don´t forget you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok no problem, take your time, no rush.
Click to expand...

people are so worried about voltages,

as raja said it isnt voltage but current that kills, the older ones ( bios ) uses less volts but in exchange more current

the newer ones use more voltages and less current


----------



## skupples

I JUST now went from the 602 bios to revision 701, and it feels ALLOT more stable than the 6xx branch.


----------



## Fidelitas

So am I. May I suggest you might read the fine print. They only offer the warranty on new processors. If they offered it on used, people would simply go buy a fried processor and claim it on warranty to get a new one. I know it seems like it might be hard to get caught, but I just watched a guy get hauled off from work in handcuffs for doing just that.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> people are so worried about voltages,
> 
> as raja said it isnt voltage but current that kills, the older ones ( bios ) uses less volts but in exchange more current
> 
> the newer ones use more voltages and less current


I see thats good information to know, what bios are you on btw?
Just for reference 8 Pack has always said that the 502 or 501 bios is the best.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I JUST now went from the 602 bios to revision 701, and it feels ALLOT more stable than the 6xx branch.


Good to know, do you find that you have to increase any of your voltages to remain stable compared to an older bios?


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> So am I. May I suggest you might read the fine print. They only offer the warranty on new processors. If they offered it on used, people would simply go buy a fried processor and claim it on warranty to get a new one. I know it seems like it might be hard to get caught, but I just watched a guy get hauled off from work in handcuffs for doing just that.


Hauled off in handcuffs? Isnt that a bit harsh? Were are you from btw?

Edit....I just seen your previous post, i see your from the USA.


----------



## Mega Man

i am too lazy to find it in the legaliez from intel but

http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2012/01/19/intel-overclocking-warranty-programme/1
Quote:


> Current available for the Core i5-2500K, Core i7-2600K, Core i7-2700K, Core i7-3930K, and Core i7-3960X, each plan costs between $20 and $35 depending on the cost of the chip. You're allowed a single plan per processor, but as many processors as you want; and each plan is fully transferable should you sell the chip on during its three-year coverage period.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Hauled off in handcuffs? Isnt that a bit harsh? Were are you from btw?
> 
> Edit....I just seen your previous post, i see your from the USA.


Texas and yeah, they are very hard nosed here but from I what I understand it was Federal postal inspectors who nailed him because he used the US Mail to send the processor in for warranty replacement.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> So am I. May I suggest you might read the fine print. They only offer the warranty on new processors. If they offered it on used, people would simply go buy a fried processor and claim it on warranty to get a new one. I know it seems like it might be hard to get caught, but I just watched a guy get hauled off from work in handcuffs for doing just that.


It doesn't really matter when you have original proof of purchase and original packaging.









and, I don't believe you.


----------



## unlimited

Is there a chance the bios visual unterface to be updated to something like the x99s


----------



## CerN

Hi guys, I'm on an older BIOS, and haven't really been around here for a while. I'm on the 0507 BIOS, have any of the newer BIOS'es improved overclocking capabilities?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It doesn't really matter when you have original proof of purchase and original packaging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> feel free to call the police on me, I can PM you my contact info.
> 
> and, I don't believe you.


Hey, no reason to get upset. I was just passing on information about the Intel warranty and a co-workers experience. What you do is your own business. Sorry, if I upset you.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CerN*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm on an older BIOS, and haven't really been around here for a while. I'm on the 0507 BIOS, have any of the newer BIOS'es improved overclocking capabilities?


if you don't have any problems, don't flash. Most updates have seemed to be directly related to specific user problems with USB or similar.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Hey, no reason to get upset. I was just passing on information about the Intel warranty and a co-workers experience. What you do is your own business. Sorry, if I upset you.


you just need original buyer to buy the tuning plan, and it's not a problem. the agreement on the tuning plan page is pretty straight-forward, and the tuning plan IS transferrable. Only works for retail boxed CPUs, and ahs to be purchased within a year of CPU purchase.


----------



## reev3r

I remember getting super excited about the overclocking warranty Intel started offering several years ago. However, with the build quality and reliability of modern processors, it really feels, to me at least, like a waste of money to warranty a CPU that you overclock... Just my thoughts on that.


----------



## szeged

You'll probably fry your mobo ram psu and gpu before you kill a cpu if you're careful with it.


----------



## reev3r

Hey, I have a bit of an odd request, I started working on a project the other day, making a longer cable for my OC Panel, I initially planned to simply reuse the pins from it and simply solder the wires from two Ethernet cables together, but I was fortunate enough to find an 8pair/18conductor cable, shielded and 24gauge... Yay!

The problem, is that I took four images with my dSLR, to document the location of each wire for assembly later, but my roommate borrowed my $3,000 36mP camera (with the ALWAYS rule that you supply your own memory card, and remove any card in it), but he used my card and ended up deleting the images I took... Can someone please take some pictures of the OC Panel cable for me, so that I can tell the harness wiring...? It would really be a life saver, the sweet and delicious kind mostly, and less so the save your actual life kind...

I took some time on Google, but alas, I need four photos, one on each side of each connector... Your help really is appreciated!

Thanks all,

~J


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I remember getting super excited about the overclocking warranty Intel started offering several years ago. However, with the build quality and reliability of modern processors, it really feels, to me at least, like a waste of money to warranty a CPU that you overclock... Just my thoughts on that.


The low cost of the tuning plan makes it a no-brainer to get it if you are planning to overclock it. Since OC'ing otherwise will void the warranty it'd be silly not to imho.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Hey, I have a bit of an odd request, I started working on a project the other day, making a longer cable for my OC Panel, I initially planned to simply reuse the pins from it and simply solder the wires from two Ethernet cables together, but I was fortunate enough to find an 8pair/18conductor cable, shielded and 24gauge... Yay!
> 
> The problem, is that I took four images with my dSLR, to document the location of each wire for assembly later, but my roommate borrowed my $3,000 36mP camera (with the ALWAYS rule that you supply your own memory card, and remove any card in it), but he used my card and ended up deleting the images I took... Can someone please take some pictures of the OC Panel cable for me, so that I can tell the harness wiring...? It would really be a life saver, the sweet and delicious kind mostly, and less so the save your actual life kind...
> 
> I took some time on Google, but alas, I need four photos, one on each side of each connector... Your help really is appreciated!
> 
> Thanks all,
> 
> ~J


I'll do it when I get home in 30 mins.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I remember getting super excited about the overclocking warranty Intel started offering several years ago. However, with the build quality and reliability of modern processors, it really feels, to me at least, like a waste of money to warranty a CPU that you overclock... Just my thoughts on that.


I only get them when buying used CPUs, which is why I require original proof of purchase, and original packaging when I do end up buying used CPUs.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I only get them when buying used CPUs, which is why I require original proof of purchase, and original packaging when I do end up buying used CPUs.


Wow skupples, I had no idea that you could get a retroactive warranty on a used CPU. Thanks for the heads up!!!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> I'll do it when I get home in 30 mins.


Thank you kindly!!!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Thank you kindly!!!


Which end , o/c panel end or mobo ??


----------



## reev3r

Oh, I know that this is completely the wrong place to post this, but I am kind of in a bind, and I know that @skupples is the infinite knowledge guru, and indeed gave me my first rep, which kind of makes it related...

I desire to give away a motherboard I have in a random drawing, but alas I am a man of insufficient rep, so if anybody has any ideas as to how I can give away this motherboard that may be of use to a beginner, or someone low on funds, it would really please me if anybody had some ideas, since I can not yet post in the marketplace. That being said, I have completed four or five purchases in the marketplace to great effect, if that is of any significance...

Let me know...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Which end , o/c panel end or mobo ??


Unfortunately, all four photos were deleted, so I would need both.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Unfortunately, all four photos were deleted, so I would need both.


There you go mate


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













Looking at those pics . I don't think that's good enough detail


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Texas and yeah, they are very hard nosed here but from I what I understand it was Federal postal inspectors who nailed him because he used the US Mail to send the processor in for warranty replacement.


I really have to hear about this. So on what charge did the us postal service arrest someone for a warranty claim? That is against no laws especially none that usps can handle or arrest you for.

That has 100% nothing to do with the post office. Even if intel are calling fraud that still has nothing to do with the post office in anyway period at all. Someone got arrested for something embarrassing and straight lied to you would be my guess.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Hi V3teran !

This are my 24/7 settings. They run 48 h primestabil. But notice each CPU is different !

Have fun !


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> There you go mate
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at those pics . I don't think that's good enough detail


Thank you so very much for the effort, but, sadly, I think you are right about the detail.. Unfortunately, the issue I am seeing is that I can not really tell which ones are empty or not...

Now, after you have already done me a kindness, perhaps I can push my luck and request another...?

Do you think you could possibly write down the orientation on each side...?

Something like:

X=Blank
K=Black
B=Blue
G=Green
F=Gray
R=Red

and so on, but to whatever sort of key you opt for, just to make it easier... I know that this is asking a lot, I mean, probably not "a lot" per se, but to me this is a rather significant request, so if you choose to decline I appreciate it. I am usually so particular about writing things down, but I recently saw a teardown guide in which it was recommended to take pictures to be able to know what goes where, so I figured I would give it a shot, and in my errant wisdom I neglected to also write it down... Blewp.

I think that I was so confident in the resolution of my 36mP Nikon D800, that I figured I would not need the text also, but I did not consider that someone might delete them, which was completely my fault.. Then again, I also expect people not to eat my food, and to clean up after themselves, but still I find my food missing, and a sink full of dishes, so I certainly should have known better... lol

Thank you for the effort of the images, and should you decide to devote the requisite time to write down the orientation, I will be more appreciative than you know!!!

After dozens and dozens of soldering jobs, rewiring jobs, case mods, PSU repairs, capacitor replacements, and various other things, I have never had to make such a request, and it makes me feel fantastically noobish!!!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Thank you so very much for the effort, but, sadly, I think you are right about the detail.. Unfortunately, the issue I am seeing is that I can not really tell which ones are empty or not...
> 
> Now, after you have already done me a kindness, perhaps I can push my luck and request another...?
> 
> Do you think you could possibly write down the orientation on each side...?
> 
> Something like:
> 
> X=Blank
> K=Black
> B=Blue
> G=Green
> F=Gray
> R=Red
> 
> and so on, but to whatever sort of key you opt for, just to make it easier... I know that this is asking a lot, I mean, probably not "a lot" per se, but to me this is a rather significant request, so if you choose to decline I appreciate it. I am usually so particular about writing things down, but I recently saw a teardown guide in which it was recommended to take pictures to be able to know what goes where, so I figured I would give it a shot, and in my errant wisdom I neglected to also write it down... Blewp.
> 
> I think that I was so confident in the resolution of my 36mP Nikon D800, that I figured I would not need the text also, but I did not consider that someone might delete them, which was completely my fault.. Then again, I also expect people not to eat my food, and to clean up after themselves, but still I find my food missing, and a sink full of dishes, so I certainly should have known better... lol
> 
> Thank you for the effort of the images, and should you decide to devote the requisite time to write down the orientation, I will be more appreciative than you know!!!
> 
> After dozens and dozens of soldering jobs, rewiring jobs, case mods, PSU repairs, capacitor replacements, and various other things, I have never had to make such a request, and it makes me feel fantastically noobish!!!


Don't worry mate .... its all good








I will have a go for you . PLUS if it works for you ..... I would like to commission you for one as well









EDIT
Oh crap I need a magnifying glass







LoooooL


----------



## Raghar

Can someone test triple channel and post AIDA benchmark? I tried it (ABD) and I have dual channel speeds.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Don't worry mate .... its all good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have a go for you . PLUS if it works for you ..... I would like to commission you for one as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT
> Oh crap I need a magnifying glass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LoooooL


Thank you very much!!!

I have a very limited supply on the cable for the job, since I am getting a very specific cable, it is a single, shielded 9-pair, 18 conductor cable, I am ending up paying $17 for 10ft. of the cable, shipped. I was hoping to do mine with 6ft, which would leave me only 4ft. left over, so if you are okay with 4ft, then I would just ask that you pay for the shipping of your cable and the cost of the new pins and connectors, which I am in the process of figuring out. I had previously planned on just reusing my connectors, but if you are interested then I will need to buy new ones anyway, which is now defeating the purpose of my having destroyed my original for it anyway... lol

Unfortunately, as of right now I am unable to find all of the connectors at one retailer, and unfortunately, the two retailers that have the connectors, moddiy.com has the DuPont 2.00mm USB 3.0-style connector (the smaller one) and 20 pins for $1.99ea, and shipping is $10 from Hong Kong, they also have the 2.54mm DuPont 2x10 pins (but not the connector), and they charge $7.00 for those.

The other store, protostack.com (again overseas - Australia), has only the 2.54mm connector and pins, where they are cheaper, $1ea for the connector, and 100 pins for $5.50, and shipping is $9 (flat rate).

So, in the end, the total cost, EXPENSIVE. That is for purchasing new connectors, something I am not planning to do unless you are interested. I simply plan to reuse mine. Unless someone has a source for these pins and connectors locally, the cost will be higher than great.

All of that being said, if you can get some more people interested in extending the cable, then it would cost much less/person, since the shipping costs will be shared. Let me know if anybody is interested, as I can get up to 50ft of the cable, and however many connectors are needed. I am sure you can quickly do the math, but it will depend on how many people are interested as to what we each pay, and I am not interested in making a chart for that right now.

If anybody else is interested in extending the including (stupid short) cable for the OC Panel, please let me know. I am currently planning to lengthen and sleeve mine, so if you would like to have a longer cable, so it can sit on your desk, with your chosen color of sleeving, please let me know so that I can work out the details of a group buy.

Thank you all,

~J


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi V3teran !
> 
> This are my 24/7 settings. They run 48 h primestabil. But notice each CPU is different !
> 
> Have fun !


Thankyou very much for those that is Brilliant! Much appreciated. If i may ask why are you running your ram at 1.67v and not 1.65v, was the system unstable at 1.65v?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> great job!!
> (you can switch to fixed - re: cat method - anytime. both work equally well when at 4.8 or under.
> 
> only a couple of recommendations to the bios settings you posted:
> 
> Xtreme tweak - enabled
> vccsa 1.0-1.10V (should not need any higher for 16GB [email protected])
> Memory: only set 9-11-10-28, assuming these are the kit's rated timings, set the rest to auto and repost (after completing all changes) see how the auto values rcompare to what you had. most you should set for 2133 is 9-11-10-28-160(?) and command rate (CR or T) - the rest on auto.
> CPU current @ auto=140%. you can set this to *160-180%* - no worries, it'll pull what it needs.
> 
> try increasing cpu voltage frequency to 500, vtt freq to *1.3x and pch to 1.3x* before adding more volts to offset or turbo. at 100 bclk and idle at 1200, you would never need more than 5mV offset (and maybe even negative offset
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). 30-40mV Additiional turbo should be plenty.
> 
> let us know how it does.
> 
> I run 4.7 offset with 5/64mV 500, 1.3x, 1.3x, PLL=1.85V p95 load vcore is 1.328 (and as low as 1.312V). nb. Idle @ 0.864V 14.1W.


I just tried these settings that you made a change too and tbh i have managed to lower my Turbo Mv by quite a bit so *kudos to you mate.* Gonna try some other settings now.
Much appreciated once again.


----------



## NEOAethyr

Anyone know how to get tREF, aka dram refresh interval time working?
It's stuck on it's default.
Memtweakit might work, after applying, restarting the app it says what I put in it.
But the bios doesn't change values at all..., I can save and exit, the setting cmos value is set to what I set it, but the reading is still default.

I'm not sure about memtweakit because how am I supposed to verify it without a datasheet for the mem controller and the fact that it applies 1's for some of the 2nd or 3rd timings when the actual min is 4-5'ish on some of those timings.

Anyways I just wanna get tREF working in the bios like it should be, so I can max it as far as it can go.
Affected 2 cpu's, every bios I've tested...
So I'm at a lose when I see some of your guy's screens where it has been changed from the default 79.. whatever it was (I just tried to see if memtweakit would apply it and have it read it out right after restarting the app, I'm gonna have to restart real quick to get the default reading' back).

Edit:
Defaults, and the value it's stuck at, 7936.

Oh and I put the side of my case on finally, just missing the 2nd vga card.
Gotta get fans for my rad and resistors for vga.
Also gotta get a full set of caps for lpb and lpa, and soldering iron ()...
Anyways I now have 4x120mm delta afb's @ 5v on the side, should be good enough for now.
My rig is still slightly to loud though.

Been messing around trying to verify 2nd and 3rd timings and the cpu at 4560, 4674.
The 4560 I can down volt quite a bit for in turbo (stock turbo is 0.100).
That turbo voltage offset thing is pretty cool, I'll have to get back and try lowering my main offset for my non-turbo states...
I think speeds past 2640mhz mem aren't doable on the 24x (2400) mem div (100mhz strap).
I can boot windows just can't figure out what it wants unless it's alot of voltage.
Wouldn't make no sense either because it does 2640 @ 1.65v, the same I have it set for at 2400, that's what I use for stock.
Not really sure, I think the bclk has to go up more and the 21.33 div needs to be used to get higher speeds then that.
Do any of you guys know if 125mhz strap @ 3000mhz mem works?, or do you have to clock up bclk or use 166 strap?
Just curious, if there's a limit to how high of mem speed I can go on 24x.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> I really have to hear about this. So on what charge did the us postal service arrest someone for a warranty claim? That is against no laws especially none that usps can handle or arrest you for.
> 
> That has 100% nothing to do with the post office. Even if intel are calling fraud that still has nothing to do with the post office in anyway period at all. Someone got arrested for something embarrassing and straight lied to you would be my guess.


I did not really mean to open a can of worms with this issue. Please understand that I am not my co-workers attorney and that I don't practice criminal law. I do mostly probate and estate planning law. From what I understand, the guy was charged with mail fraud for filing a fraudulent insurance claim on a processor replacement. Under Texas law, it is a felony to file an insurance claim using information that you 'knowingly' realize is false. Regardless of what anyone posts in this forum, if you buy a processor from someone and insure it for overclocking as a new processor, you would have to lie to Intel to collect on it should you file a claim on it. One person mentioned that the warranty is transferable. I would really appreciate someone posting that off the warranty terms and conditions page, because I found nothing that indicates that it is transferable and or that you can buy a used processor and warranty it. That does not even remotely make sense or people would simply buy bad processors for scrap value, insure them, wait a month and file a claim to get new processors. If it was that simple and LEGALIf, I would get all my friends together, using their names, buy a bunch of scrap processors, insure them, and clean up on eBay selling the new ones as they came in. If in fact I am wrong, I have a 4930k that is basically fried for sale. Anyone wants it for $200.00, send me an IM.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Thankyou very much for those that is Brilliant! Much appreciated. If i may ask why are you running your ram at 1.67v and not 1.65v, was the system unstable at 1.65v?


No, my system run also stabil with 1.65V and X.M.P Profile.
But i need a little voltage pump to keep a few lower timings running.
For example the DRAM write latency (tWCL) on 6 need this pump.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I did not really mean to open a can of worms with this issue. Please understand that I am not my co-workers attorney and that I don't practice criminal law. I do mostly probate and estate planning law. From what I understand, the guy was charged with mail fraud for filing a fraudulent insurance claim on a processor replacement. Under Texas law, it is a felony to file an insurance claim using information that you 'knowingly' realize is false. Regardless of what anyone posts in this forum, if you buy a processor from someone and insure it for overclocking as a new processor, you would have to lie to Intel to collect on it should you file a claim on it. One person mentioned that the warranty is transferable. I would really appreciate someone posting that off the warranty terms and conditions page, because I found nothing that indicates that it is transferable and or that you can buy a used processor and warranty it. That does not even remotely make sense or people would simply buy bad processors for scrap value, insure them, wait a month and file a claim to get new processors. If it was that simple and LEGALIf, I would get all my friends together, using their names, buy a bunch of scrap processors, insure them, and clean up on eBay selling the new ones as they came in. If in fact I am wrong, I have a 4930k that is basically fried for sale. Anyone wants it for $200.00, send me an IM.


well the thing here is this is not an insurance claim that we are speaking about warrantys and intels tuning policy which is an extended warranty are not insurance. Did your friend claim to be someone else other than him self? intel warrantys are based by serial number not by orignal sale (although they can get out of it from non orignal sale). if a part is defective its defective people receive things as gifts all the time with no receipt so by your logic they breaking the law by doing an rma this is simply not true. you also seem to think that intel will replace any chip no matter what happened to it if yiu have the tuning plan this again isnt true theres a very limited scope of why they will replace it.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> Anyone know how to get tREF, aka dram refresh interval time working?
> It's stuck on it's default.


Grin evilly, it helps.

You can also try rampage tweak mode 1 if it sets different default. Otherwise there is no hope until BIOS 1201.


----------



## Jpmboy

tREF can be lowered and it will appear to increase the memtweakit "efficiency" (which is meaningless). run some sisoft or other hard mem tests... doesn't change much of anything.. well except memtweakit bull-fficiency.









note regarding turbo voltage and bclk/straps... you'll likely need to raise offset if you work a bclk ration in the 103+ range since the idle clock is higher and turbo does not affect idle voltage. (follow?)


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> tREF can be lowered and it will appear to increase the memtweakit "efficiency" (which is meaningless). run some sisoft or other hard mem tests... doesn't change much of anything.. well except memtweakit bull-fficiency.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> note regarding turbo voltage and bclk/straps... you'll likely need to raise offset if you work a bclk ration in the 103+ range since the idle clock is higher and turbo does not affect idle voltage. (follow?)


What does offset voltage actually do in the simplest terms?


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Grin evilly, it helps.
> 
> You can also try rampage tweak mode 1 if it sets different default. Otherwise there is no hope until BIOS 1201.











Thanks dude.
Mode 1 does indeed have a diff default for tREF, it also allows it to be adjusted.
I'm testing it out maxed right now, 32767 I think it was.
Put this samsung to use







.

Mode 2 doesn't boot, I don't have any clue why.
Mode 3 has a bug apparently, can't set tREF.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> tREF can be lowered and it will appear to increase the memtweakit "efficiency" (which is meaningless). run some sisoft or other hard mem tests... doesn't change much of anything.. well except memtweakit bull-fficiency.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> note regarding turbo voltage and bclk/straps... you'll likely need to raise offset if you work a bclk ration in the 103+ range since the idle clock is higher and turbo does not affect idle voltage. (follow?)


You're not supposed to lower tREF lol...
Not for bandwith anyways.
tREF (or called tREFI in the bios for some reason), the value of that setting is the period of time it waits to refresh the ram.
The longer the wait the better, at risk of instability.
Samgung goes the highest.
I can't remember what the other brands are compared to it though, just that they usually can't be maxed out like samsung can.

Anyways increasing it can increase bandwidth slightly, it's a good timing to have, you can usually notice a small change in benchs with it.
I just got -1.1ns in aida from it.
Definitely not the margin of error here, margin of error right at this moment is .2-.3ns.

Totally agree with the memtweakit bandwith being meaningless...
I have my bclk at 114mhz, main offset is -0.005v I think.
Worked fine for 4.3ghz, after messing with turbo I'm 0.028v 4.550'ish stable in linx, and watchdogs, but not y-cruncher (new avx y-cruncher is the best cpu test..., will fail on fft and hnt or whatever it's called).

To the point...
I'll eventually figure out what I need for vcore at turbo.
Once I do, I'll disable turbo and test the main power states to see if they can go even lower in volts.
Then I'll re-enable turbo and it'll be pretty decent.
At least that's the plan







.

2400 c9 is just fine I think, good for 24/7 use, so I'm happy with my board and cpu.
Would like higher though.
I want that 70k bandwith, but I'm getting there, got to 68k at 4.2ghz...
Just need to figure out these sub timings (getting there..).


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> tREF can be lowered and it will appear to increase the memtweakit "efficiency" (which is meaningless). run some sisoft or other hard mem tests... doesn't change much of anything.. well except memtweakit bull-fficiency.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> note regarding turbo voltage and bclk/straps... you'll likely need to raise offset if you work a bclk ration in the 103+ range since the idle clock is higher and turbo does not affect idle voltage. (follow?)


I was able to bring my offset down from +.005 to -.005 and run stable at 4.7 (47x100), however, the only other change I was able to make was to disable PLL Overvoltage so I don't go above 1.850 I was also able to achieve stability by keeping the offset at +.005 and lowering the PLL to 1.80 and the turbo voltage to .062 Which way do you think is better, lowering the core voltage by going to a -.005 offset or lowering the PLL and turbo voltage?

The only concern I have about running at 4.7 24/7 is that my temps spike in the high 70's on two cores, but only for a second or two and run about an average of 65c under full load on Prime.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> What does offset voltage actually do in the simplest terms?


addresses the dynamic demand for power/voltage when the cpu is under load. it adds vcore when you need it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You're not supposed to lower tREF lol...*
> Not for bandwith anyways.
> tREF (or called tREFI in the bios for some reason), the value of that setting is the period of time it waits to refresh the ram.
> The longer the wait the better, at risk of instability.
> Samgung goes the highest.
> I can't remember what the other brands are compared to it though, just that they usually can't be maxed out like samsung can.
> 
> Totally agree with the memtweakit bandwith being meaningless...
> I have my bclk at 114mhz, main offset is -0.005v I think.
> Worked fine for 4.3ghz, after messing with turbo I'm 0.028v 4.550'ish stable in linx, and watchdogs, but not y-cruncher (new avx y-cruncher is the best cpu test..., will fail on fft and hnt or whatever it's called).
> *2400 c9 is just fine I think, good for 24/7 use*, so I'm happy with my board and cpu.
> Would like higher though.
> I want that 70k bandwith, but I'm getting there, got to 68k at 4.2ghz...
> Just need to figure out these sub timings (getting there..).


Huh? who says? decreasing the wait time before a refresh/recharge speeds up the whole process. anyway - tweak away and let us know how much performance improvement you get. 2400c9 is fine depending on how much vtt and vsa it needs. open aid64 to see the system vtt... not only cpu vtt. only place I've seen it in software.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I was able to bring my offset down from +.005 to -.005 and run stable at 4.7 (47x100), however, the only other change I was able to make was to disable PLL Overvoltage so I don't go above 1.850 I was also able to achieve stability by keeping the offset at +.005 and lowering the PLL to 1.80 and the turbo voltage to .062 Which way do you think is better, lowering the core voltage by going to a -.005 offset or lowering the PLL and turbo voltage?
> 
> The only concern I have about running at 4.7 24/7 i*s that my temps spike in the high 70*'s on two cores, but only for a second or two and run about an average of 65c under full load on Prime.


there is nothing any of us do "24/7" that loads the cpu architecture like p95 (or IBT, or any other 100% load, high current stress test) - well except for a complete pch/imc retrain as raja mentioned. The PLL overvoltage is really only active during startup... and maybe needed to lock the phasing at higher clocks during startup for some cpus/clocks, does little after that. Best to leave this enabled so you don't force rail-stealing. PLL will fluctuate under various conditions you can measure this directly off the mobo. my recommendation would be once you settle in on a frequency that survives your stability protocol, save it to a bios slot first, then move either higherr or lower so you have other bios settings saved for future use... actually - I save several to a usb stick just in case things get really borked up and you need to reflash.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> addresses the dynamic demand for power/voltage when the cpu is under load. it adds vcore when you need it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Huh? who says? decreasing the wait time before a refresh/recharge speeds up the whole process.


The guys that design DRAM say so, the laws of physics also do - therefore so do we









The charge stored in DRAM cells drains away over time. Refreshing is performed to recharge the DRAM cells holding a logic 1 to the correct value. If the delay between recharge is too long, the charge can fall below Vref at which point it will be seen as a logic 0 instead of a 1, which = data corruption. Refreshing too often simply adds unnecessary delays to the system because read and write tranasctions cannot be made when a refresh is taking place. The default period for refresh is safe (worked out mathematically). Some ICs can handle longer refresh delays.

Of course the real-world performance impact is negligible for most systems. For those tweaking to the hilt for benchmarking, this type of tweaking can help.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> The guys that design DRAM say so, the laws of physics also do - therefore so do we
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The charge stored in DRAM cells drains away over time. Refreshing is performed to recharge the DRAM cells holding a logic 1 to the correct value. *If the delay between recharge is too long,* the charge can fall below Vref at which point it will be seen as a logic 0 instead of a 1, which = data corruption. *Refreshing too often simply adds unnecessary delays to the system because read and write tranasctions cannot be made when a refresh is taking place*. The default period for refresh is safe (worked out mathematically). Some ICs can handle longer refresh delays.
> 
> Of course the real-world performance impact is negligible for most systems. For those tweaking to the hilt for benchmarking, this type of tweaking can help.


Hey - Good to see you stop by... thought the R4BE was abandoned. Thanks for the clarification. I think - not sure how a longer refresh speeds things up tho; unless the default is too short to begin with







is there a speed benefit to be at the edge of data corruption? But, you are the ram guru! I just leave it on auto. Hasn't hurt (or helped) any of the routine benchmarks I've done... all ambient/ watercooled only.

So I just picked up a 5960X... waiting for the RVE to be in stock... anywhere.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Hey - Good to see you stop by... thought the R4BE was abandoned. Thanks for the clarification. I think - not sure how a longer refresh speeds things up tho; unless the default is too short to begin with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is there a speed benefit to be at the edge of data corruption? But, you are the ram guru! I just leave it on auto. Hasn't hurt (or helped) any of the routine benchmarks I've done... all ambient/ watercooled only.
> 
> So I just picked up a 5960X... *waiting for the RVE to be in stock... anywhere.*


Make sure you stop by the owners thread when you've got it.
I'm following the discussion, even tho I can't afford the X 8-core (not to mention the golden 4930K acquisition, eh).


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Make sure you stop by the owners thread when you've got it.
> I'm following the discussion, even tho I can't afford the X 8-core (not to mention the golden 4930K acquisition, eh).


yeah - but you got that Au-4930K







Thanks for the link!

@[email protected]

so you prompted some quick experimentation/data acquisition:
AID64 memory benchmark... 2133 8-10-10-21-91-1T (read/write/copy, K's)

tREF auto - 63, 63, 61
tREF lower - 63, 63-, 60
tREF hi 1 - 63, 63, 61
tREF hi 2 - 63, 63, 61

snips:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










so - went too low and not high enough?

BTW - what's with that write-speed thing for the bclk100 2400ram divider?


----------



## [email protected]

Aida wont show the gains or losses from this properly.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Aida wont show the gains or losses from this properly.


Okay, any suggestion as to what would?. BTW - same i got the same general (nominal) effect at 2400 9-11-11-31-1T.. obviously 'cause AID64 does not assess it.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks dude.
> Mode 1 does indeed have a diff default for tREF, it also allows it to be adjusted.
> I'm testing it out maxed right now, 32767 I think it was.
> Put this samsung to use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Mode 2 doesn't boot, I don't have any clue why.
> Mode 3 has a bug apparently, can't set tREF.
> You're not supposed to lower tREF lol...
> Not for bandwith anyways.
> tREF (or called tREFI in the bios for some reason), the value of that setting is the period of time it waits to refresh the ram.
> The longer the wait the better, at risk of instability.
> Samgung goes the highest.
> I can't remember what the other brands are compared to it though, just that they usually can't be maxed out like samsung can.
> 
> Anyways increasing it can increase bandwidth slightly, it's a good timing to have, you can usually notice a small change in benchs with it.
> I just got -1.1ns in aida from it.
> Definitely not the margin of error here, margin of error right at this moment is .2-.3ns.
> 
> Totally agree with the memtweakit bandwith being meaningless...
> I have my bclk at 114mhz, main offset is -0.005v I think.
> Worked fine for 4.3ghz, after messing with turbo I'm 0.028v 4.550'ish stable in linx, and watchdogs, but not y-cruncher (new avx y-cruncher is the best cpu test..., will fail on fft and hnt or whatever it's called).
> 
> To the point...
> I'll eventually figure out what I need for vcore at turbo.
> Once I do, I'll disable turbo and test the main power states to see if they can go even lower in volts.
> Then I'll re-enable turbo and it'll be pretty decent.
> At least that's the plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 2400 c9 is just fine I think, good for 24/7 use, so I'm happy with my board and cpu.
> Would like higher though.
> I want that 70k bandwith, but I'm getting there, got to 68k at 4.2ghz...
> Just need to figure out these sub timings (getting there..).


I'm always willing to learn.

How are you assessing the effect of tREF tweaking?


----------



## Kimir

Try SuperPI maybe?








tweaked a little my daily,

The goal for benching (the 9-12-12 specifically):


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I'm always willing to learn.
> 
> How are you assessing the effect of tREF tweaking?


Test bandwidth (and latency), and when you see the speed as low as if you used one notch higher latency, you would know you set refresh rate too low.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Try SuperPI maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tweaked a little my daily,
> 
> The goal for benching (the 9-12-12 specifically):


Nice ram voltage! I haven't subjected mine to more than 1.680 (for 2666 c11 T1)


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Test bandwidth (and latency), and when you see the speed as low as if you used one notch higher latency, you would know you set refresh rate too low.


test with what?


----------



## Kimir

Second screen is not mine, it's what I aim for.








Never tried more than 1.65v yet, did [email protected] which are stock timing and voltage of my Ram (except the 1T).


----------



## Raghar

I used AIDA, but RMMA should work as well. Or Sandra.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I used AIDA, but RMMA should work as well. Or Sandra.


read raja's post above. AID64 is NG.
Sandra.. maybe. UCSD Chameleon benchmark looks reasonable for testing.


----------



## NEOAethyr

I used aida lol, but I've been benching it for 2.5 days, right now latency is usually around 50.2 give or take .2 or so.
I got 49.1 maxing out tREF.

Without tREF, min'ed sub timings, I get in the 48ns range.
Hard saying if I will see 47ns with this combined tough.

The usual bench I would use for this is superpi, but it's so old...
Running a few passes of 1m and avg'ing out the runs used to do the trick.
Now you'de have to 32m probably to see any tangible diff, and then it would probably be "just" out of the usual range of error.

If I didn't have samsung I would save it for last to test.
Just to much to test on that one, 1 value to high and you'll face instability that could be hard to track down.
Hard saying really, how hard it would be to find an error these days, you have to hammer the ram pretty good..., it's more like a reliability thing.
You would have to transfer alot of data in and out of the ram to check it.

It's something I kinda came across on the 486, well I came across tCLK (that's what I name it, 8253 timer 0), it wasn't until I think either the k6-2 or socket a when I 1st came across tREF.
I think the range was 0x7ffff or 0x8000, oh yep...








0x7ffff = 32767 (0 counts..., maybe it's supposed to be 32768 I don't know but it's good enough







).

tREF was moved from the interrupt controller along time ago.
At least I believe...

Originally the timer would be set to a value, and the type of timer (sq, sine wave, etc).
And then it would count down from that value until it hit 0, then it would interrupt and refresh the ram, then repeat.
I think it was timer 3... originally.

I used it on the nf2 socket a, I had to flash the ram's spd to change it though, and those were only presets so it was rather limited.
(I had to mod the spds to get it prime/pi/s&m stable at 280 fsb 560mhz mem, tCK, tAC and tREF were the more importants)
The 939 added tREF in to most every major bios, amd added it to there mem controller, but they didn't give us much for options (that and it was kind of a bummer to re-combine tRCD-W and tRCD-R back into a single timing...).
Kinda makes sense though, have the full range might be a bit to much for the avg user.
Values like 3.9us, 7.8us and etc are easier to test, because there's alot less of them.
But I MUCH prefer the full range like the r4be/intel has, because I know what it's about lol.

To me, it's not much but it's one of my more fav timings.
It can help a little bit, and every little bit helps.

If you're pushing the ram to it's very limit, tREF is one of those misc timings that are important.
Left on stock should be fine for max clocks though.
If you're sub ambient and pushing the limit it may help to push everything you got as fast as it goes (less chance for error).
Or perhaps the ram needs a lower tREF to max out (diff ram brand ic's are definitely diff in this regard).
It's a good thing to have.
But so is just about any other timing lol.

Anyways when I'm benching, since I've been doing it for so long.
I can tell when there's a small decrease or increase in bandwith / latency out of the usual range for my run of repetitive bench results.
Sometimes though, when you lower a timing speeds seems to get worse.
Usually when you put a set of them together it's a tad bit better latency, and perhaps noticeable more bandwith too.
Regardless, they have to be stability tested.
If they are stable I set them as low as they go.
Usually not caring to much about the bandwith until the end result.
Not always a good practice though lol.

I didn't really expect 1.1ns less in latency just from that one timing, probably just some random timing combo thing (my subs are on auto, except for 2 of them).
I just so happen to see the increase of bandwith, doesn't mean I'll see it at a a slightly diff config, even though there is an actual diff, abiet tiny.

I think my post is getting to long lol, sorry.. it's just as hard on me to read all the way through as it is you guys







.
Right now I'm testing in yc, tREF maxed, and tWR 7, tRTP 4.
Both those subs are watchdogs 1hr stable and linx stable, tWR was at 5 when I tested those.
tWR 5 would not post with my tREF maxed, interesting to me because I'm trying to figure out the trouble makers in the 2nd and 3rd sub timings.
I've know what the min values are for linx stable, trick is to get them all watch dogs stable then yc, then finish off with the rest of the games I feel should be tested for an hour or 2 (mafia2 4hrs bleh ...).

4.25hrs in yc so far so good.
3.5 or so more hrs left then on to more timings to verify...


----------



## Jpmboy

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> I used aida lol, but I've been benching it for 2.5 days, right now latency is usually around 50.2 give or take .2 or so.
> I got 49.1 maxing out tREF.
> 
> Without tREF, min'ed sub timings, I get in the 48ns range.
> Hard saying if I will see 47ns with this combined tough.
> 
> The usual bench I would use for this is superpi, but it's so old...
> Running a few passes of 1m and avg'ing out the runs used to do the trick.
> Now you'de have to 32m probably to see any tangible diff, and then it would probably be "just" out of the usual range of error.
> 
> If I didn't have samsung I would save it for last to test.
> Just to much to test on that one, 1 value to high and you'll face instability that could be hard to track down.
> Hard saying really, how hard it would be to find an error these days, you have to hammer the ram pretty good..., it's more like a reliability thing.
> You would have to transfer alot of data in and out of the ram to check it.
> 
> It's something I kinda came across on the 486, well I came across tCLK (that's what I name it, 8253 timer 0), it wasn't until I think either the k6-2 or socket a when I 1st came across tREF.
> I think the range was 0x7ffff or 0x8000, oh yep...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 0x7ffff = 32767 (0 counts..., maybe it's supposed to be 32768 I don't know but it's good enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> tREF was moved from the interrupt controller along time ago.
> At least I believe...
> 
> Originally the timer would be set to a value, and the type of timer (sq, sine wave, etc).
> And then it would count down from that value until it hit 0, then it would interrupt and refresh the ram, then repeat.
> I think it was timer 3... originally.
> 
> I used it on the nf2 socket a, I had to flash the ram's spd to change it though, and those were only presets so it was rather limited.
> (I had to mod the spds to get it prime/pi/s&m stable at 280 fsb 560mhz mem, tCK, tAC and tREF were the more importants)
> The 939 added tREF in to most every major bios, amd added it to there mem controller, but they didn't give us much for options (that and it was kind of a bummer to re-combine tRCD-W and tRCD-R back into a single timing...).
> Kinda makes sense though, have the full range might be a bit to much for the avg user.
> Values like 3.9us, 7.8us and etc are easier to test, because there's alot less of them.
> But I MUCH prefer the full range like the r4be/intel has, because I know what it's about lol.
> 
> To me, it's not much but it's one of my more fav timings.
> It can help a little bit, and every little bit helps.
> 
> If you're pushing the ram to it's very limit, tREF is one of those misc timings that are important.
> Left on stock should be fine for max clocks though.
> If you're sub ambient and pushing the limit it may help to push everything you got as fast as it goes (less chance for error).
> Or perhaps the ram needs a lower tREF to max out (diff ram brand ic's are definitely diff in this regard).
> It's a good thing to have.
> But so is just about any other timing lol.
> 
> Anyways when I'm benching, since I've been doing it for so long.
> I can tell when there's a small decrease or increase in bandwith / latency out of the usual range for my run of repetitive bench results.
> Sometimes though, when you lower a timing speeds seems to get worse.
> Usually when you put a set of them together it's a tad bit better latency, and perhaps noticeable more bandwith too.
> Regardless, they have to be stability tested.
> If they are stable I set them as low as they go.
> Usually not caring to much about the bandwith until the end result.
> Not always a good practice though lol.
> 
> I didn't really expect 1.1ns less in latency just from that one timing, probably just some random timing combo thing (my subs are on auto, except for 2 of them).
> I just so happen to see the increase of bandwith, doesn't mean I'll see it at a a slightly diff config, even though there is an actual diff, abiet tiny.
> 
> I think my post is getting to long lol, sorry.. it's just as hard on me to read all the way through as it is you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Right now I'm testing in yc, tREF maxed, and tWR 7, tRTP 4.
> Both those subs are watchdogs 1hr stable and linx stable, tWR was at 5 when I tested those.
> tWR 5 would not post with my tREF maxed, interesting to me because I'm trying to figure out the trouble makers in the 2nd and 3rd sub timings.
> I've know what the min values are for linx stable, trick is to get them all watch dogs stable then yc, then finish off with the rest of the games I feel should be tested for an hour or 2 (mafia2 4hrs bleh ...).
> 
> 4.25hrs in yc so far so good.
> 3.5 or so more hrs left then on to more timings to verify...






If AID64 is not measuring the effect well... it's a waste of time IMO. Can't say I read that all







. good luck with your benching. You see my numbers out there...


----------



## NEOAethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> If AID64 is not measuring the effect well... it's a waste of time IMO. Can't say I read that all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . good luck with your benching. You see my numbers out there...


To you maybe it isn't worth it.
To me it is, I'm keeping this rig for a couple years, and I like to tweak memory







.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> To you maybe it isn't worth it.
> To me it is, I'm keeping this rig for a couple years, and I like to tweak memory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


you're missing my point. If you can't measure the effect accurately, tweaking is meaningless... well unless you just enjoy it. cool.


----------



## [email protected]

Whether you personally find it useful is not the whole picture my friend.

Its a well known tweak for super pi - that professional benchers use. The reason why a larger setting is better from an outright performance standpoint was outlined in earlier posts. I think you were struggling to get your head around that initially so I explained a bit further. That's all.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Whether you personally find it useful is not the whole picture my friend.
> 
> Its a well known tweak for super pi - that professional benchers use. The reason why a larger setting is better from an outright performance standpoint was outlined in earlier posts. I think you were struggling to get your head around that initially so I explained a bit further. That's all.


"What we have here is a failure to communicate". I was noting that with your remark that AIDA will not show the gains or loss for this parameter, using AIDA would then be useless to measure it's effect - right? Anyway... nuff said - when I see performance numbers, I'll believe.








lots o fun with super pi.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I was noting that with your remark that AIDA will not show the gains or loss for this parameter, using AIDA would then be useless to measure it's effect - right? Anyway... nuff said - when I see performance numbers, I'll believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lots o fun with super pi.


If refresh is too tight or too loose, the board will re-train at boot, so if you input a value and it is not being held properly, that's likely why. We've got to remember that ASUS spent significant time optimizing the trace layout as well, so typical rules don't always apply with the RIVBE. That's why having all those memory profiles are great...but you do have to be prepared to push the voltages up on DRAM to match the profile suggestions.

Don't forget to try the IC optimization settings available too, under the tertiary timings section; they can have a good impact on bench numbers if used properly.


----------



## [email protected]

My interest was only correcting the misunderstanding and highlighting where it helps. As this is of no concern to your usage model maybe its better to let it ride for those that will use it.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> My interest was only correcting the misunderstanding and highlighting where it helps. As this is of no concern to your usage model maybe its better to let it ride for those that will use it.


Given that most guides are written for benchers, there seems to be a common misconception that different usage models need different treatment, and that there's only one way to skin this here cat.

I'm not into benching, don't follow guides, and give suggestions that are far different, but the RIVBE has met and exceeded my expectation for 24-7 use. Of course there are problems trying multiple approaches and combining them as one...


----------



## [email protected]

That reply was not for you Dave.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> That reply was not for you Dave.


ROFL. I know that. But just sayin'... it's easy to understand any confusion there might be, and why there are many questions.


----------



## Fidelitas

I read some reviews on the new 5960x paired with a X99 deluxe motherboard and 16gb of DDR4 RAM. It is hard to ignore the performance of the new 8 core, 16 thread chip. I guess it is time to start shopping for a new Rampage Extreme V X99 board. My dad has three on the way, so I am sure with some well timed begging (pleading, may be a more accurate word) he may part with one for me. Now, I need to find the money for the 5960x and some good RAM. Anyone out there have some money tree seeds or should I head out to the casino's and change, "Big daddy needs a new pair of shoes...." to "Big daddy needs a new processor and some Corsair DDR4 Platinum RAM....?" I think I crapped out on the X79 platform. Come on 11....


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Given that most guides are written for benchers, there seems to be a common misconception that different usage models need different treatment, and that there's only one way to skin this here cat.
> 
> I'm not into benching, don't follow guides, and give suggestions that are far different, but the *RIVBE has met and exceeded my expectation for 24-7 use*. Of course there are problems trying multiple approaches and combining them as one...


Same here bro... [email protected] all the time, but it does bench well too even for the non-professionals







Hey - grabed me top 10 (and several #1's) in 3DMK11 across HOF and some good points at hwbot... will see how the new RVE and 5960X do in the next week(s). CPU is in hand, mobo arrives in a day or two. Really looking forward to trying that out. The 4960X and BE will be put to daily use (replacing a rock-solid 2700K







that's been a workhorse).
You guys should try the benchmark in the UCSD Chameleon package. Very "telling".









so, what ram do you recommend for the x99? (reasonable $) Selection is very limited at this point.

just fyi - these are my bench settings when not @4.875/2666


vcore is not to my liking...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

@Jpmboy I was getting 54k efficiency on some higher settings that would stick









Been messin with 1150skt / DC dram clocking for the last 2 weeks and I understand my ram so much better when I apply those tricks here







( well one fer sure maybe 2







)



http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8678401

Single card PB







LoooooooL


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> @Jpmboy I was getting 54k efficiency on some higher settings that would stick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been messin with 1150skt / DC dram clocking for the last 2 weeks and I understand my ram so much better when I apply those tricks here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( well one fer sure maybe 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8678401
> Single card PB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LoooooooL


Those are nice memory timings! You are *not* going to believe this:
same exact score. http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8578929








chances of that happening?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> That reply was not for you Dave.


you mean the helpful reply?









x99 OC guide in the making?? We hope.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Those are nice memory timings! You are *not* going to believe this: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8578929
> same exact score. http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8578929
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chances of that happening?


How flukey is that !!
Have a look at salties mk 11 thread ¥


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> How flukey is that !!
> Have a look at salties mk 11 thread ¥


Ha! I thought you'd hit that tess-off button! Very nice score. I think Hotrod is starting to sweat...


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> addresses the dynamic demand for power/voltage when the cpu is under load. it adds vcore when you need it.


Ok thanks for that! I have Turbo Mv on the lowest setting of 4mv, how do i take this lower apart from Auto?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> great job!!
> (you can switch to fixed - re: cat method - anytime. both work equally well when at 4.8 or under.
> 
> only a couple of recommendations to the bios settings you posted:
> 
> Xtreme tweak - enabled
> vccsa 1.0-1.10V (should not need any higher for 16GB [email protected])
> Memory: only set 9-11-10-28, assuming these are the kit's rated timings, set the rest to auto and repost (after completing all changes) see how the auto values rcompare to what you had. most you should set for 2133 is 9-11-10-28-160(?) and command rate (CR or T) - the rest on auto.
> *CPU current @ auto=140%. you can set this to 160-180% - no worries, it'll pull what it needs.*
> 
> try increasing cpu voltage frequency to 500, vtt freq to 1.3x and pch to 1.3x before adding more volts to offset or turbo. at 100 bclk and idle at 1200, you would never need more than 5mV offset (and maybe even negative offset
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). 30-40mV Additiional turbo should be plenty.
> 
> let us know how it does.
> 
> I run 4.7 offset with 5/64mV 500, 1.3x, 1.3x, PLL=1.85V p95 load vcore is 1.328 (and as low as 1.312V). Idle @ 0.864V 14.1W.


The part that ive put in bold does that mean that no matter what the cpu vcore is even if it is really low then it will still take what it needs to achieve the chosen OC?
How do i go one step further with your settings for negative offset?

Edit.....i set the offset to negative which now decreases voltage as i can see. Ive also managed to shave off another 1v and be stable in prime


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Ok thanks for that! I have Turbo Mv on the lowest setting of 4mv, how do i take this lower apart from Auto?
> The part that ive put in bold does that mean that no matter what the cpu vcore is even if it is really low then it will still take what it needs to achieve the chosen OC?
> How do i go one step further with your settings for negative offset?
> 
> Edit.....i set the offset to negative which now decreases voltage as i can see. Ive also managed to shave off another 1v and be stable in prime


I am running at 4.7 at 1.34vcore using a negative .005 offset, 1.85 PLL (PLL overvoltage disabled), 1.15 VTT, 1.05 vcssa, .068 turbo voltage, High cpu load calibration, 160% cpu current. It is running rock solid there but that is where my processor hits its wall or curve, whatever you may call it, because going to 4.8, I have to jump up to a plus .015 offset to get it to even boot. I have not played with it any further because my AIO liquid cooler is not good enough to deal with the heat of my processor running at a 1.43 vcore.


----------



## Fidelitas

Has anyone received the new Rampage Extreme V yet?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Same here bro... [email protected] all the time, but it does bench well too even for the non-professionals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey - grabed me top 10 (and several #1's) in 3DMK11 across HOF and some good points at hwbot... will see how the new RVE and 5960X do in the next week(s). CPU is in hand, mobo arrives in a day or two. Really looking forward to trying that out. The 4960X and BE will be put to daily use (replacing a rock-solid 2700K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's been a workhorse).
> You guys should try the benchmark in the UCSD Chameleon package. Very "telling".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so, what ram do you recommend for the x99? (reasonable $) Selection is very limited at this point.
> 
> just fyi - these are my bench settings when not @4.875/2666
> 
> 
> vcore is not to my liking...


Vcore of 1.456 would send my temps through the roof, but those temps are excellent. What kind of cooling system are you running?


----------



## milesshen

Hello. I don't know if this is the right thread to be saying this... but if anyone has a RoG magnet that they're willing to part with, I'd be willing to pay decently for one. Please send me a PM! Thanks!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Ok thanks for that! I have Turbo Mv on the lowest setting of 4mv, how do i take this lower apart from Auto?
> *The part that ive put in bold does that mean that no matter what the cpu vcore is even if it is really low then it will still take what it needs to achieve the chosen OC*?
> How do i go one step further with your settings for negative offset?
> 
> Edit.....i set the offset to negative which now decreases voltage as i can see. Ive also managed to shave off another 1v and be stable in prime


yes - you could but it at 180% just the same. But for 4.6 or 4.7, auto to 160% should be plenty.

@Fidelitas - that's okay for FM physics, R15.. etc. MaxT is ~ +35C over the water temp. I'm using the koolance 380 waterblock

older file pic but basically the same.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I am running at 4.7 at 1.34vcore using a negative .005 offset, 1.85 PLL (PLL overvoltage disabled), 1.15 VTT, 1.05 vcssa, .068 turbo voltage, High cpu load calibration, 160% cpu current. It is running rock solid there but that is where my processor hits its wall or curve, whatever you may call it, because going to 4.8, I have to jump up to a plus .015 offset to get it to even boot. I have not played with it any further because my AIO liquid cooler is not good enough to deal with the heat of my processor running at a 1.43 vcore.


Thankyou for that mate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yes - you could but it at 180% just the same. But for 4.6 or 4.7, auto to 160% should be plenty.


Ok cheers.
Im gonna pick your brains somemore as im starting to get somewhere now.
Firstly im only running at 4.2ghz because this is all that is really needed to eliminate any bottleneck between my gpu and cpu for gaming.
I have managed to get 4.2 stable with Ht on in Prime with the settings i used before but now im using negative offset and cpu vcore offset voltage of 0.120 (Its in Pink digits now).
Im also using cpu vcssa manual voltage of 0.995 (white digits)

Are those 2 voltages ok? Is the Pink digits ok? Does there need to be like 0.500 between the two voltages or are they ok?
At 4.2ghz my cpu pulls 1.072 and is stable, so far so good!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Thankyou for that mate.
> Ok cheers.
> Im gonna pick your brains somemore as im starting to get somewhere now.
> Firstly im only running at 4.2ghz because this is all that is really needed to eliminate any bottleneck between my gpu and cpu for gaming.
> I have managed to get 4.2 stable with Ht on in Prime with the settings i used before but now im using negative offset and cpu vcore offset voltage of 0.120 (Its in Pink digits now).
> Im also using cpu vcssa manual voltage of 0.995 (white digits)
> 
> Are those 2 voltages ok? Is the Pink digits ok? Does there need to be like 0.500 between the two voltages or are they ok?
> *At 4.2ghz my cpu pulls 1.072 and is stable*, so far so good!


Pink, sure. I know of no offset-turbo spread that is "required". What you posted looks fine to me. The values in bios drive the voltages in real terms... so if your CPU is doing 4.2 @ v1.07V - very nice!!


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Pink, sure. I know of no offset-turbo spread that is "required". What you posted looks fine to me. The values in bios drive the voltages in real terms... so if your CPU is doing 4.2 @ v1.07V - very nice!!


That is according to cpu-z, im going to try and go lower, keep highering the offset but with the negative of course









Does there need to be like 0.500 between the two voltages or are they ok? I remember reading that there were some voltage settings that had to be within 0.5 of each other, i cannot remember what they are.

If i keep adding more negative offset, will the system eventually not even boot into windows? Theoretically this sounds correct but want to check that with you?
What about going into the red digits of cpu vcore offset voltage?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> That is according to cpu-z, im going to try and go lower, keep highering the offset but with the negative of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does there need to be like 0.500 between the two voltages or are they ok? I remember reading that there were some voltage settings that had to be within 0.5 of each other, i cannot remember what they are.
> 
> If i keep adding more negative offset, will the system eventually not even boot into windows? Theoretically this sounds correct but want to check that with you?
> What about going into the red digits of cpu vcore offset voltage?


again, I know of no spread between offset and turbo that is "required". With negative offset even with a successful boot, at some point, the system will be stable under load, but not when just browsing or low-load work. I've never really gone very low with negative offset.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> again, I know of no spread between offset and turbo that is "required". With negative offset even with a successful boot, at some point, the system will be stable under load, but not when just browsing or low-load work. I've never really gone very low with negative offset.


Thankyou for your time in replying and helping.
Well ive had some good results, the lowest settings i managed to get Prime stable was 0.140 cpu vcore offset voltage in the bios.
According to cpu-z when prime was at full load max volts was 1.056v for 4.2ghz Ht-On which is great!
Im now going to work up from here 100mhz at atime.
I will leave you alone for now Jpmboy and i thank you once again for helping me, very much appreciated!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Thankyou for your time in replying and helping.
> Well ive had some good results, the lowest settings i managed to get Prime stable was 0.140 cpu vcore offset voltage in the bios.
> According to cpu-z when prime was at full load max volts was 1.056v for 4.2ghz Ht-On which is great!
> Im now going to work up from here 100mhz at atime.
> I will leave you alone for now Jpmboy and i thank you once again for helping me, very much appreciated!


hey - no bother at all. Always good to see a fellow user get wha they need/want... it's geting there that's the fun!








enjoy.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Thankyou for that mate.
> Ok cheers.
> Im gonna pick your brains somemore as im starting to get somewhere now.
> Firstly im only running at 4.2ghz because this is all that is really needed to eliminate any bottleneck between my gpu and cpu for gaming.
> I have managed to get 4.2 stable with Ht on in Prime with the settings i used before but now im using negative offset and cpu vcore offset voltage of 0.120 (Its in Pink digits now).
> Im also using cpu vcssa manual voltage of 0.995 (white digits)
> 
> Are those 2 voltages ok? Is the Pink digits ok? Does there need to be like 0.500 between the two voltages or are they ok?
> At 4.2ghz my cpu pulls 1.072 and is stable, so far so good!


Hi, If you don't mind can i see your settings? I run mine at 4.2ghz lowest i can get my vcore is 1.296 with offset + 0.005


----------



## V3teran

Yeah sure i will post them up tomorrow for you bedtime now.
Goodnight.


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Yeah sure i will post them up tomorrow for you bedtime now.
> Goodnight.


Thanks nite nite (lunch time here)


----------



## Mega Man

as to the cpu current, think of that as a built in electronic fuse, but instead of blowing it just limits the amount of current you can pull

current is not pushed it is pulled as needed.

think of it as a water pump hooked to a hose with a spout on the other end.

if the spout is not open no water will move

when you want water you open the spout the more you open it the more comes out.

that is the best definition of current i can give.

until the cpu says i need more power it wont use it


----------



## Neb9

No sure if posted here:

A group/club for ROG product owners.

http://www.overclock.net/groups/show/2223/republic-of-gamers-rog


----------



## Valuri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> No sure if posted here:
> 
> A group/club for ROG product owners.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/groups/show/2223/republic-of-gamers-rog


I'm in!


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Thanks nite nite (lunch time here)


Ok here is all my bios settings for 4.2ghz Ht on, 1.056v max load Prime stable for 1hr using *Custom time to run each FFTS size 5min* and *12228 Memory (75%*).
No game is going to max your cpu are generate the amount of heat that Prime, Occt, Linx or Ibt generate.
There is no point torturing your cpu for hrs upon hrs at high clocks because it will simply degrade quicker.
Here is all my bios setting

my4930kbios4.2stable.zip 1764k .zip file










Let me know how you get on.


----------



## Jpmboy

that's the lowest negative offset I've ever seen. Amazing that it works.








ps> set dram current to the same value you have 100 and 110% in there... just for, well.. 'OC...D"


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> that's the lowest negative offset I've ever seen. Amazing that it works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ps> set dram current to the same value you have 100 and 110% in there... just for, well.. 'OC...D"


Thanks my friend! I do not know exactly were you mean in the bios? Can you be more specific please?
The person that sold me this cpu had it running at 5ghz on Prime 95 for a few hours. Apparently when he spoke to 8Pack from Ocuk, he said he had never come across a 4930k like it which is why i grabbed it as soon as it went up for sale!
The funny thing is that i tried the same bios settings from the Rampage 4 Extreme on the black and i could not even boot into Windows which is why im building up from 4.2.


----------



## OBI-1

If I am only at 50c-58c after several hours of P95 do you guys think I can go higher. 4.5 @ 1.424 ? I am new to overclocking, sorry in advance for being noobish. I know I should be setting my vcore manually but I just wanted to see if AIsuite3 would give me a stable clock at the 4.5 setting. My rig is in my sig(lol rymes) "Samantha" http://valid.canardpc.com/9d95bl i7-4820k


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OBI-1*
> 
> If I am only at 50c-58c after several hours of P95 do you guys think I can go higher. 4.5 @ 1.424 ? I am new to overclocking, sorry in advance for being noobish. I know I should be setting my vcore manually but I just wanted to see if AIsuite3 would give me a stable clock at the 4.5 setting. My rig is in my sig(lol rymes) "Samantha" http://valid.canardpc.com/9d95bl i7-4820k


that is up to you, you are already .024v over intels recommended absolute max voltage
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Thanks nite nite (lunch time here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok here is all my bios settings for 4.2ghz Ht on, 1.056v max load Prime stable for 1hr using *Custom time to run each FFTS size 5min* and *12228 Memory (75%*).
> No game is going to max your cpu are generate the amount of heat that Prime, Occt, Linx or Ibt generate.
> There is no point torturing your cpu for hrs upon hrs at high clocks because it will simply degrade quicker.
> Here is all my bios setting
> 
> my4930kbios4.2stable.zip 1764k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know how you get on.
Click to expand...

i have seen this exact statement about how much heat/ and stress prime and abt-avx, ( i dont classify the other tests in the same class sorry ) and the degrade statement.

so i felt the need to post this as it is very well written


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> *
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.*
Click to expand...





with that said, no one is required to be stable, just please dont claim you are,

but to just assume " you dont need it " is a poor choice as you have no idea what that persons intent is with his pc,

folding, gaming, rendering?

as for me i render and yes i need that amount of stability. however just because you dont, does not mean it is "unrealistic and unneeded " so please think about it before you post this statement again


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Thanks my friend! I do not know exactly were you mean in the bios? Can you be more specific please?
> The person that sold me this cpu had it running at 5ghz on Prime 95 for a few hours. Apparently when he spoke to 8Pack from Ocuk, he said he had never come across a 4930k like it which is why i grabbed it as soon as it went up for sale!
> The funny thing is that i tried the same bios settings from the Rampage 4 Extreme on the black and i could not even boot into Windows which is why im building up from 4.2.


the settings are not 1:1 between the r4e and r4be. close, but there will be differences. .. or it was BS, unless you witnessed the hours of p95. why would anyone run hours at 5.0? what was the max T? Stupid IMO, needless stress/degradation.









here, set A/B and C/D the same (no big deal).


----------



## V3teran

I said its not needed for gaming. Also occt a linx is still harder to pass than prime 95.
This message was intended for megaman. I think we posted at similar time jpm.

As for this cpu doing 5ghz and stable, we will see but I have no reason to not believe the seller as he is a well respected poster over at guru3d.


----------



## ITAngel

I have my board I have not played with it yet, still doing updates. Will see what I can do with my 3930k with the hope I can run it cool at 4.5Ghz.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> I said its not needed for gaming. Also occt a linx is still harder to pass than prime 95.
> This message was intended for megaman. I think we posted at similar time jpm.
> 
> As for this cpu doing 5ghz and stable, we will see but I have no reason to not believe the seller as he is a well respected poster over at guru3d.


I believe it'll do 5.0... But p95 for that long, assuming it's a benching clock, is not good unless you keep temps well below 70C imo.

The occt linpac stress is okay, more a test of your cooling solution than cpu architecture and general stability. 10 laps with IBT will tell you the same.

Down load the Processing Power" bench from hwbot for a quick hard and variable current load test.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I believe it'll do 5.0... But p95 for that long, assuming it's a benching clock, is not good unless you keep temps well below 70C imo.
> 
> The occt linpac stress is okay, more a test of your cooling solution than cpu architecture and general stability. 10 laps with IBT will tell you the same.
> 
> Down load the Processing Power" bench from hwbot for a quick hard and variable current load test.


I see, I am currently running the Corsair H100i so not sure how far it can be pushed while keeping it in the safe zone.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I believe it'll do 5.0... But p95 for that long, assuming it's a benching clock, is not good unless you keep temps well below 70C imo.


Will the CPU degrade much faster with temperatures above 70C? Which temperatures should be the "peak" for a system trying to run as high of a overclock as possible for 24/7 on water?

I am thinking on my self now, my 3930K @ 1,424 volts is about 70C on water (on core#1, average about 65C), so do that mean that I could do 1,424 volts 24/7 and be okay?

How much hotter does the 4930K get at 1,424 volts than the 3930K at 1,424 volts (taken in mind the same cooling, ambient and so on). Would higher multiplyer make it hotter too?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Will the CPU degrade much faster with temperatures above 70C? Which temperatures should be the "peak" for a system trying to run as high of a overclock as possible for 24/7 on water?
> 
> I am thinking on my self now, my *3930K @ 1,424 volts is about 70C on water* (on core#1, average about 65C), so do that mean that I could do 1,424 volts 24/7 and be okay?
> 
> How much hotter does the 4930K get at 1,424 volts than the 3930K at 1,424 volts (taken in mind the same cooling, ambient and so on). Would higher multiplyer make it hotter too?


This is fine.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> This is fine.


This for sure with SB-E.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> This for sure with SB-E.


Funny







I think this too


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I think my temperatures will drop a bit with 2x MO-RA3 420's though, and I will probably add some more water because of dual reservoirs too. I had 4,5 litres before, but my loop will have a different layout and more heat will come to the radiators now I think (I had computer -> 480 -> 240 -> reservoir -> 240 -> 480 -> MO-RA3 420 -> computer), then only the first 480 Monsta and the first XTX240 got hot to the touch (second 240, 480 and MO-RA3 420 never got hot to the touch). Water was only lukewarm, copper tubing/fittings did not get hot to the touch. GPU-backplates was warm (around 50C), waterblocks cold/lukewarm. This was with 22-25C ambient, now it will be 16-18C ambient and a better loop.

You guys think 1,44 volt is good on my 3930K then?


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Ok here is all my bios settings for 4.2ghz Ht on, 1.056v max load Prime stable for 1hr using *Custom time to run each FFTS size 5min* and *12228 Memory (75%*).
> No game is going to max your cpu are generate the amount of heat that Prime, Occt, Linx or Ibt generate.
> There is no point torturing your cpu for hrs upon hrs at high clocks because it will simply degrade quicker.
> Here is all my bios setting
> 
> my4930kbios4.2stable.zip 1764k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know how you get on.


Thanks mate will let you know how i get on, i know you have a somewhat special cpu and mine wont get close to yours but will be happy to shave a few volts off my 4.2ghz @ 1.296v, i don't use those software's you mentioned don't see the point as my PC will never work that hard, i test in games and 3dmark if its stable in those i,m a happy camper


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I believe it'll do 5.0... But p95 for that long, assuming it's a benching clock, is not good unless you keep temps well below 70C imo.
> 
> The occt linpac stress is okay, more a test of your cooling solution than cpu architecture and general stability. 10 laps with IBT will tell you the same.
> 
> *Down load the Processing Power" bench from hwbot for a quick hard and variable current load test.*


Ok will do









Score was 1171.63
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Thanks mate will let you know how i get on, i know you have a somewhat special cpu and mine wont get close to yours but will be happy to shave a few volts off my 4.2ghz @ 1.296v, i don't use those software's you mentioned don't see the point as my PC will never work that hard, i test in games and 3dmark if its stable in those i,m a happy camper


Cool let us know how you get on and Kudos to Jpmboy, he is the real star here








MehlstaubtheCat has been very helpful too.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I think my temperatures will drop a bit with 2x MO-RA3 420's though, and I will probably add some more water because of dual reservoirs too. I had 4,5 litres before, but my loop will have a different layout and more heat will come to the radiators now I think (I had computer -> 480 -> 240 -> reservoir -> 240 -> 480 -> MO-RA3 420 -> computer), then only the first 480 Monsta and the first XTX240 got hot to the touch (second 240, 480 and MO-RA3 420 never got hot to the touch). Water was only lukewarm, copper tubing/fittings did not get hot to the touch. GPU-backplates was warm (around 50C), waterblocks cold/lukewarm. This was with 22-25C ambient, now it will be 16-18C ambient and a better loop.
> 
> You guys think 1,44 volt is good on my 3930K then?


SB-E can take a lot more voltage than that.. and laugh at ya!








Just keep the temps reasonable eg, prolonged excursions about say.. 75C are probably not great for a long life... but really, we're talkin' years anyway.

@V3teran - 1171.3 at what frequency? Either way, passing that it a good sign.








Cat's a great help! Negative offset-Cat!


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> SB-E can take a lot more voltage than that.. and laugh at ya!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep the temps reasonable eg, prolonged excursions about say.. 75C are probably not great for a long life... but really, we're talkin' years anyway.
> 
> @V3teran - 1171.3 at what frequency? Either way, passing that it a good sign.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cat's a great help! Negative offset-Cat!


Thats at 4.2ghz at 1.056v.
I have yet to use Cats settings, even though they work well for Cat i think ive found my own settings with your Help Jpm so i dont think Cats settings are required but he did put the negative offset into my head which im very happy about


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

@Gobigorgohome

Yes, 1.44V Vcore is ok for Sandy E under water.

Love you guy´s ! Thx you, I appreciate that !


----------



## yttocstfarc

Ok guys got a question. I have 2 fans on a pwm splitter going to chassis fan 1. For some reason on startup these fans along with the cpu fan ramp up and stay ramped up until the windows login screen comes up then they drop to my set speed in ai suite. Is there anyway to enable a quiet boot to where at least the chassis 1 fans don't ramp up on startup. Or is there a way to have all the fans start on my set speed?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Ok guys got a question. I have 2 fans on a pwm splitter going to chassis fan 1. For some reason on startup these fans along with the cpu fan ramp up and stay ramped up until the windows login screen comes up then they drop to my set speed in ai suite. Is there anyway to enable a quiet boot to where at least the chassis 1 fans don't ramp up on startup. Or is there a way to have all the fans start on my set speed?


do it in bios on the "Monitor" tab" Fan control.. after clearing (or deleting) AI suite


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> do it in bios on the "Monitor" tab" Fan control.. after clearing (or deleting) AI suite


That was my next step. The weird thing was this. -> I started off with 2 fans split on cpu fan then 2 fans split on cpu optional. 2 fans on chassis 1 and 1 on chassis 2 then the rear 140 on chassis 3. I went back into the build to get it ready for custom loop. and disconnected cpu opt removed those fans. kept 2 on cpu header put h100i signal on cpu opt and kept the other fans like they were on the first time. Thats when the loud fans started staying ramped up till the windows screen. Before just the cpu fans would ramp for a sec then go to idle.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Thanks mate will let you know how i get on, i know you have a somewhat special cpu and mine wont get close to yours but will be happy to shave a few volts off my 4.2ghz @ 1.296v, i don't use those software's you mentioned don't see the point as my PC will never work that hard, i test in games and 3dmark if its stable in those i,m a happy camper


I personally have a 4930K and my dad has three of them. I have found that the 4930k loves 4.3. You can run it all day long there and even under the heaviest loads you should never see spikes above 65c. It seems like a sweet spot for the 100blck for the 4930k. The only difference you would have to do to your settings, is to go a negative vcore offset of .060, turbo voltage of .032, change your cpu load line calibration from 180 to 140 and set you PLL at 1.80

Your processor also will love 4.5 on a 125strap. I took mine to 133.339, to get the most out of my ram, but you can set yours however you feel most comfortable. It runs about the same vcore and temps as 4.3 on a 100blck.

You may want to give it a try. As I said, it seems to be a sweet spot for the 4930k and your RAM will love it at 2133.

http://valid.canardpc.com/pa9rp1


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Ok guys got a question. I have 2 fans on a pwm splitter going to *chassis fan 1*. For some reason on startup these fans along with the cpu fan ramp up and stay ramped up until the windows login screen comes up then they drop to my set speed in ai suite. Is there anyway to enable a quiet boot to where at least the chassis 1 fans don't ramp up on startup. Or is there a way to have all the fans start on my set speed?


All of the CHA and OPT headers are voltage controlled, not PWM. They have a fixed 5V placeholder in place of the PWM signal on the 4th pin. Only the two CPU headers are PWM on the RIVBE (same as with most other mobos). See here. The CPU_FAN is PWM and the CPU_OPT is a mirror of it - you can't control it separately. Of course it is possible to control PWM fans via voltage control instead of PWM but it's not particularly good for many of them.

edit: for example, here's OCN's Swiftech rep discussing voltage control of PWM fans:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is true. Voltage control isn't the same as a PWM signal that these fans were designed for and they were also designed for a specific current. Voltage control alters that current in a way that these PWM fans weren't designed for and it can thus cause them to become noisy, shorten their lifespan, or both.


----------



## Jpmboy

a little fun with bclk (stable 182): http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/2400_20#post_22800383
http://hwbot.org/competition/oc4doge

comp is limited to 4.381GHz on the processor. Hard to compete with the efficiency of haswell....


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> a little fun with bclk (stable 182): http://www.overclock.net/t/1439469/ivy-bridge-e-owners-club/2400_20#post_22800383
> http://hwbot.org/competition/oc4doge
> 
> comp is limited to 4.381GHz on the processor. Hard to compete with the efficiency of haswell....


What model processor did you use?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> What model processor did you use?


it's in the entry post.. 4960X


----------



## vulcan78

I had to dial it back from 4.6GHz to 4.6GHz at 1.398V as I was getting BSOD's in Crysis 3 and Metro LL with the new monitor, ROG Swift; apparently the greater GPU load at 1440p has induced some heretofore unseen stress on the CPU. I'm thinking about trying 4.5GHz at 120 or 125 strap anyone think I will get away with this at 1.4V? Anything I should be considered about performance or stability wise going 120 or 125 strap vs. 100 strap? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I had to dial it back from 4.6GHz to 4.6GHz at 1.398V as I was getting BSOD's in Crysis 3 and Metro LL with the new monitor, ROG Swift; apparently the greater GPU load at 1440p has induced some heretofore unseen stress on the CPU. I'm thinking about trying 4.5GHz at 120 or 125 strap anyone think I will get away with this at 1.4V? Anything I should be considered about performance or stability wise going 120 or 125 strap vs. 100 strap? Thanks in advance.


can you post bios screen shots? Gotta be a way to lower that vcore for 4.5GHz. after you F12 on each bios screen. put them in a folder, right-click, send to compressed zip folder and post that in this thread.


----------



## vulcan78

BIOSSnapshotsOC.net.zip 1752k .zip file

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> can you post bios screen shots? Gotta be a way to lower that vcore for 4.5GHz. after you F12 on each bios screen. put them in a folder, right-click, send to compressed zip folder and post that in this thread.


AI Suite 3 snapshots correct? If so here they are, "Additional Turbo Voltage" is at .160V, not sure what else isn't displayed via AI Suite.

I just tried 102.5 BLCK for a sum-total frequency of 4.6GHz and got BSOD fairly quickly into Prime95 (5 min. FFT's).

It seems it's only stable at 4.5GHz and 1.398V and memory at 2133MHz at 1.650V. Good news is I'm not over 1.4V. Bad news is I believe this is the limit of this chip. I've also tried 4.6Ghz with the memory at 1866MHz and it's still not stable.

I've already increased "CPU PLL" Voltage to 1.9V as per your previous advice kind sir.

Screenshots attached.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> BIOSSnapshotsOC.net.zip 1752k .zip file
> 
> AI Suite 3 snapshots correct? If so here they are, "Additional Turbo Voltage" is at .160V, not sure what else isn't displayed via AI Suite.
> 
> I just tried 102.5 BLCK for a sum-total frequency of 4.6GHz and got BSOD fairly quickly into Prime95 (5 min. FFT's).
> 
> It seems it's only stable at 4.5GHz and 1.398V and memory at 2133MHz at 1.650V. Good news is I'm not over 1.4V. Bad news is I believe this is the limit of this chip. I've also tried 4.6Ghz with the memory at 1866MHz and it's still not stable.
> 
> I've already increased "CPU PLL" Voltage to 1.9V as per your previous advice kind sir.
> 
> Screenshots attached.


thanks - but it really need to see the actual bios screens, like this:

47offset4960x.zip 1645k .zip file


I'd limit CPU PLL to 1.85 unless you find that going higher permits a lower vcore or a higher clock stability.


----------



## Cyber Locc

So is anyone other than me thinking about getting the new bitspower block its so sexy....


----------



## ITAngel

What are most people running here Windows 7 64bit or Windows 8.1 64bit? For some reason I am having a weird issue and maybe go back to Windows 7 64bit Ultimate.


----------



## Shadowarez

I would love to use Win7 x64 Ultimate again but it's never going to accept UEFI install on my Samsung 850 Pros. No matter how many times iv rebuilt it using UEFI guides it doesn't work so for sake of running stable on a UEFI install I'm on win 8.1 Pro x64


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I would love to use Win7 x64 Ultimate again but it's never going to accept UEFI install on my Samsung 850 Pros. No matter how many times iv rebuilt it using UEFI guides it doesn't work so for sake of running stable on a UEFI install I'm on win 8.1 Pro x64


I see, that is crazy. Sorry to hear that man. I never though of that, do you know if I install Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit on my custom PC with the ASUS Rampage IV BE will it work fully drivers and all? There is one area in the Device Manager window that keeps complaining about a driver but I can't figure out what driver or device needs driver for. I love Windows 8.1 interface but willing to go back to Windows 7 for a stable experience with this machine. System had frozen a few times lately and I dout is the mobo and cpu as this happen under AMD side Sabertooth 990FX. So closed to scrap all of this and install it tomorrow.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> I see, that is crazy. Sorry to hear that man. I never though of that, do you know if I install Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit on my custom PC with the ASUS Rampage IV BE will it work fully drivers and all? There is one area in the Device Manager window that keeps complaining about a driver but I can't figure out what driver or device needs driver for. I love Windows 8.1 interface but willing to go back to Windows 7 for a stable experience with this machine. System had frozen a few times lately and I dout is the mobo and cpu as this happen under AMD side Sabertooth 990FX. So closed to scrap all of this and install it tomorrow.


pci simple communications controller?

Put your motherboard cd in your drive and then go to device manager and right click the"pci simple communications controller" and update driver from the drive the cd is inserted.

Or install this exe from here:

*https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=20078&lang=eng&wapkw=(Intel+ME+Management+Engine+Driver+for+Intel*


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> pci simple communications controller?
> 
> Put your motherboard cd in your drive and then go to device manager and right click the"pci simple communications controller" and update driver from the drive the cd is inserted.
> 
> Or install this exe from here:
> 
> *https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=20078&lang=eng&wapkw=(Intel+ME+Management+Engine+Driver+for+Intel*


I will give this a shot, and let you know how this go. Thanks!

By the way here is a post I have going on with the images that may help out to figure out exactly what is going on. I can't figure it out maybe you can.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1511541/has-anyone-have-this-issue-here


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> thanks - but it really need to see the actual bios screens, like this:
> 
> 47offset4960x.zip 1645k .zip file
> 
> 
> I'd limit CPU PLL to 1.85 unless you find that going higher permits a lower vcore or a higher clock stability.


Ok sir I think I got them all, please let me know if I missed anything. Oh and I dialed back CPU PLL from 1.9 to 1.85V and it is stable, thanks for the advice.

BIOSsnapshots.zip 2077k .zip file


----------



## vulcan78

I have a question pertaining to SLI, I presently have 2x 780 Ti SLI and am interested in picking up a dedicated PhysX card, a 750 Ti that will be going in between the to 780 Ti's, question is, do I or don't I attach it to the 3 Way SLI cable? I believe I have to switch to a 2 Way SLI cable and the board still sees/recognizes the additional card but am not entirely sure. Thanks in advance.

Edit: I figured it out, from what I gather a dedicated PhysX card does not need to be connected to SLI, I think I will be putting it under my secondary 780 Ti in slot 6 so as to give the primary more breathing room. A nice thing about 750 Ti is it's only half the length of 780 Ti; whatever GPU is above it will still be able to breathe.

P.S. I just realized how awesome X79 is, many with SLI cannot add a dedicated PhysX card because it requires an x8 PCIE lane, with this board I could add a 750 Ti in slot 6 and still add a third 780 Ti to slot 2 down the road.

P.S.S. $130 for dedicated PhysX!!! And if youre only running an 850W PSU as I am with 780 Ti SLI there is no need to upgrade!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487024&cm_re=gtx_750_ti-_-14-487-024-_-Product

Some PhysX benches with games that have it and 780 Ti SLI:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=388690

http://alienbabeltech.com/main/using-maxwells-gtx-750-ti-dedicated-physx-card/3/

(It's somewhat ironic that the game I am presently enjoying that has gotten me looking into a dedicated PhysX card, even with 780 Ti SLI, was a promotional item that came with the motherboard, conspiracy? PhysX enabled in Assassins Creed: Black Flag introduces so much needless stutter its unbelievable. The PhysX effects are a joy to behold though, I love the way the smoke from the camp fires rolls around your character if you run through them, and the hand-cannon smoke is very nice, in fact I love the PhysX effects in all the games, they are a very nice touch).


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Ok sir I think I got them all, please let me know if I missed anything. Oh and I dialed back CPU PLL from 1.9 to 1.85V and it is stable, thanks for the advice.
> 
> BIOSsnapshots.zip 2077k .zip file


With that 32GB of ram you will have some limitations. Only major suggestion I would make is to lower your additional turbo volts stepwise after setting cpu voltage freq to 500. General "consensus" is that 2nd VTT does not really help with OC. Have you found that you need to raise this for 32GB?

Did you need to set the ssecondary memory timings (like res to res delay @ 7 vs auto) for your ram kit? Otherwise, for 2133 ram, set everything but the primarys to auto. Try "Nearer"


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> With that 32GB of ram you will have some limitations. Only major suggestion *I would make is to lower your additional turbo volts stepwise after setting cpu voltage freq to 500*. General "consensus" is that 2nd VTT does not really help with OC. Have you found that you need to raise this for 32GB?
> 
> Did you need to set the ssecondary memory timings (like res to res delay @ 7 vs auto) for your ram kit? Otherwise, for 2133 ram, set everything but the primarys to auto. Try "Nearer"


How much have you been able to drop with this? I've never tried it on my Ivy-E rig yet, but I recall playing with this on sandy while benching.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> How much have you been able to drop with this? I've never tried it on my Ivy-E rig yet, but I recall playing with this on sandy while benching.


on auto, 4.8 on the 4960X is 1.424 load vcore, at 500 1.408V. not alot. on the 4930K 4.9 is 1.4V auto, at 500 it's 1.38V. not much. but temps seem better overall. seems to help stabilize at slightly lower voltage.. as you;d think. somewhat like pwm frequency on the kingpin?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I would love to use Win7 x64 Ultimate again but it's never going to accept UEFI install on my Samsung 850 Pros. No matter how many times iv rebuilt it using UEFI guides it doesn't work so for sake of running stable on a UEFI install I'm on win 8.1 Pro x64


Switch to legacy boot up device in BIOS. I use non UEFI x64 W7 ultimate. (And I need sometimes to switch HD between older non UEFI systems.)


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> How much have you been able to drop with this? I've never tried it on my Ivy-E rig yet, but I recall playing with this on sandy while benching.


If your running 32gb or more of RAM, you really should set your vcssa to 1.15. I know somebody will say that is a little high but I assure you that it definitely helps. My 3Dmark physics score went up 600 by going from 1.01 to 1.15 using 64gb of RAM running at 2133.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> If your running 32gb or more of RAM, you really should set your vcssa to 1.15. I know somebody will say that is a little high but I assure you that it definitely helps. My 3Dmark physics score went up 600 by going from 1.01 to 1.15 using 64gb of RAM running at 2133.


Meh. You gotta push VCCSA until scores DO NOT INCREASE, or it's not _really_ stable then, is it?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Meh. You gotta push VCCSA until scores DO NOT INCREASE, or it's not _really_ stable then, is it?


I am not sure I understand what your saying Cadveca. Was it not you who helped me to get my 64gb running right, when I was having probleems getting it to run stable at 2133. I think your original suggestion was to take my VCCSA to 1.20 and test it. Following your advice I did that and dropped .05 increments off until I got my best benchmark performance out of it. If it wasn't for you, I would never got my RAM to 2133 running stable. If I did something wrong, please correct me.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> If I did something wrong, please correct me.


Nope, nothing wrong. :







The range between what seems stable, and what's _really_ stable, is pretty large.


----------



## Fidelitas

I'll be the first to admit that I know very little about overclocking a system, but from following the advice of people like yourself, JMPboy and Home Cinema, I have learned quite a bit about overclocking my 4960x and my 64gb's of RAM. I have a very stable system running at 4.7 @2133, that on full peak runs on an average of 65c. My three 780SC's post a respectable Firestrike score of 22580 and my RAM efficiency is at 64839 on my ASUS Memory Tweak program. Before all of your help, I could not get my 4960 past 4.5 without it running in the high 70c's and could not type on my keyboard when my RAM was set a 2133. I have a lot more to learn, but you folks have taught me some very invaluable overclocking methods. Finally, if someone can get 64gb of RAM to run at 2133 or higher without raising the VCCSA, I am more than willing to give it a try.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Im back , back in the black LoooooL










Dual loops of Chilledness


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Finally, if someone can get 64gb of RAM to run at 2133 or higher without raising the VCCSA, I am more than willing to give it a try.


I am pretty confident that's 100% CPU-dependent, not tweaking-dependent.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

New OC Panel firmware 0501

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/OC_Panel/HelpDesk_Download/


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I am pretty confident that's 100% CPU-dependent, not tweaking-dependent.


Definitely IMC related


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> New OC Panel firmware 0501
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/OC_Panel/HelpDesk_Download/


Installed it yesterday cant tell whats changed though.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Installed it yesterday cant tell whats changed though.


Hey there across the ditch








I was hoping for a VSCCA setting oh well


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Hey there across the ditch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was hoping for a VSCCA setting oh well


Hey there bro:thumb: Now that would have been super helpful aye


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hey there bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that would have been super helpful aye


I just want the main ones you use to clock ya know . Adjusting voltages in real time while benchmarking / whatever , is an asset


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Hey there across the ditch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was hoping for a VSCCA setting oh well


I can't see any differences in the previous firmware.


----------



## _REAPER_

23 days and a wake up and leaving AFG hopefully for the last time. Ready to get home and OC my PC. I know it is not as exotic as the Chiller setups... but hey atleast I have something to strive for once I am boots on ground at home.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 23 days and a wake up and leaving AFG hopefully for the last time. Ready to get home and OC my PC. I know it is not as exotic as the Chiller setups... but hey atleast I have something to strive for once I am boots on ground at home.


That is a beautiful rig.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> With that 32GB of ram you will have some limitations. Only major suggestion I would make is to lower your additional turbo volts stepwise after setting cpu voltage freq to 500. General "consensus" is that 2nd VTT does not really help with OC. Have you found that you need to raise this for 32GB?
> 
> Did you need to set the ssecondary memory timings (like res to res delay @ 7 vs auto) for your ram kit? Otherwise, for 2133 ram, set everything but the primarys to auto. Try "Nearer"


I will try this, thanks again for all your help!!! Also, a few posts back you uploaded a .zip file including snapshots of your BIOS settings at 4.7GHz, would it be advisable to try your settings or are those obsolete?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> If your running 32gb or more of RAM, you really should set your vcssa to 1.15. I know somebody will say that is a little high but I assure you that it definitely helps. My 3Dmark physics score went up 600 by going from 1.01 to 1.15 using 64gb of RAM running at 2133.


I will also give this a shot.









Anyone more advice overclock masters?


----------



## Zimzoid

Nice one:thumb:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 23 days and a wake up and leaving AFG hopefully for the last time. Ready to get home and OC my PC. I know it is not as exotic as the Chiller setups... but hey atleast I have something to strive for once I am boots on ground at home.


----------



## supermiguel

I may be picking this board for my monster build (http://www.overclock.net/t/1508183/build-log-super-monster), X99 has too many issues for me to jump with it


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> With that 32GB of ram you will have some limitations. Only major suggestion I would make is to lower your additional turbo volts stepwise after setting cpu voltage freq to 500. General "consensus" is that 2nd VTT does not really help with OC. Have you found that you need to raise this for 32GB?
> 
> Did you need to set the ssecondary memory timings (like res to res delay @ 7 vs auto) for your ram kit? Otherwise, for 2133 ram, set everything but the primarys to auto. Try "Nearer"


HELP, I set CPU freq to 500 and got a BSOD @ 4.6, I then tried staggering the multi's and got anothet BSOD, this time apparently breaking Windows in the process. After splash screen its saying: "reboot and select proprer boot device" alternating with "Windows Boot Manager....status: 0xc000000e...The boot selection failed because a required device is inaccessible".

I then tried to repair windows with the resource disc but upgraded from Home to Pro a few month ago and its sayng resource disc is incompatible.

What are my.options? Why did a BSOD break Windows? Is it the motherboard? This sucks, its 10 pm here to top it off. I checked craigslist for a 7 pro disc, none. Cant download, typing this fromy phone.....


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> HELP, I set CPU freq to 500 and got a BSOD @ 4.6, I then tried staggering the multi's and got anothet BSOD, this time apparently breaking Windows in the process. After splash screen its saying: "reboot and select proprer boot device" alternating with "Windows Boot Manager....status: 0xc000000e...The boot selection failed because a required device is inaccessible".
> 
> I then tried to repair windows with the resource disc but upgraded from Home to Pro a few month ago and its sayng resource disc is incompatible.
> 
> What are my.options? Why did a BSOD break Windows? Is it the motherboard? This sucks, its 10 pm here to top it off. I checked craigslist for a 7 pro disc, none. Cant download, typing this fromy phone.....


Why can't you download? What phone are you using?


----------



## reev3r

I must have gotten very, very lucky with my 32GB kit. I see many people having issues with RAM, even at 1600MHz, heck, then again I see more people having bad experiences with this board than any other board I have owned. I guess that I have been lucky the last fifteen years of computering... lol

I really do hope that everyone can resolve their respective issues promptly, if only I could be of more assistance.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> With that 32GB of ram you will have some limitations. Only major suggestion I would make is to lower your additional turbo volts stepwise after setting cpu voltage freq to 500. General "consensus" is that 2nd VTT does not really help with OC. Have you found that you need to raise this for 32GB?
> 
> Did you need to set the ssecondary memory timings (like res to res delay @ 7 vs auto) for your ram kit? Otherwise, for 2133 ram, set everything but the primarys to auto. Try "Nearer"
> 
> 
> 
> HELP, I set CPU freq to 500 and got a BSOD @ 4.6, I then tried staggering the multi's and got anothet BSOD, this time apparently breaking Windows in the process. After splash screen its saying: "reboot and select proprer boot device" alternating with "Windows Boot Manager....status: 0xc000000e...The boot selection failed because a required device is inaccessible".
> 
> I then tried to repair windows with the resource disc but upgraded from Home to Pro a few month ago and its sayng resource disc is incompatible.
> 
> What are my.options? Why did a BSOD break Windows? Is it the motherboard? This sucks, its 10 pm here to top it off. I checked craigslist for a 7 pro disc, none. Cant download, typing this fromy phone.....
Click to expand...

unstable ocs make errors on your hdd, which is data corruption. unless you keep a disk on your you need to make a backup, on a separate drive or a cd before you oc


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Came from a rive to this board. Smooth transition. No problems neither. Everything is running so good, I don't want mess with it by upgrading to x99


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> unstable ocs make errors on your hdd, which is data corruption. unless you keep a disk on your you need to make a backup, on a separate drive or a cd before you oc


If your over clocking without an image of your drive, your playing Russian Roulette with a boat load of work. Going from 4.3 to 4.8, I corrupted my operating system / hard drive at least 12 times. But thanks to a program called Acronis True Image and recent image files, I was able to restore my SSD and operating system, within in 8 minutes every time I did it.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Came from a rive to this board. Smooth transition. No problems neither. Everything is running so good, I don't want mess with it by upgrading to x99


Mine is running very smooth too and I love how it performs, but I am definitely upgrading to the new platform and a 5960X. In fact, I just sold one of my systems tonight to start the transition.


----------



## Mega Man

i refuse till the bugs are gone

instead spending most of the cash on my amd system and a little for my intel ( all the accessories i want to make them look finnished, going to work on sleeving in 2 weekends ( next weekend ill work all weekend







)

but after that my shipments should be in of all 5-6 ( have not decided ) 360 monstas new 120mm top for my M8 ( @Fidelitasyou might like this i have the ONLY M8 in circulation with drop in rad mounts, the only other one is in caselabs warehouse







) and ped along with misc other accessories


----------



## vulcan78

Guess who gets to reinstall windows?!!


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Guess who gets to reinstall windows?!!


I did 4 times this week.







Troubleshooting an issue that was all cause by the darn LINK software from Corsair H100i. I return the cooler today after i got my 2011 mount kit for my Noctua NH-D14. I can't be any happier to have my baby back.









By the way is it you that's going to reinstall Windows?


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i refuse till the bugs are gone
> 
> instead spending most of the cash on my amd system and a little for my intel ( all the accessories i want to make them look finnished, going to work on sleeving in 2 weekends ( next weekend ill work all weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> but after that my shipments should be in of all 5-6 ( have not decided ) 360 monstas new 120mm top for my M8 ( @Fidelitasyou might like this i have the ONLY M8 in circulation with drop in rad mounts, the only other one is in caselabs warehouse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and ped along with misc other accessories


You know I like it Mega. And to be quite frank, I would expect nothing less from you!


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Guess who gets to reinstall windows?!!


Honest to God I feel for you. I highly suggest when you get it all back up and running, that you make a image of your drive. It is just so much easier to reimage a drive than to have to go back and reinstall you operating system and programs. Not to mention, all the hours spent downloading and installing updates, activating your software (if required) and getting everything just right again. A good image of your drive should be your number one priority after doing a clean install of all your software. It will literally save you hours upon hours of unnecessary work should you have a problem. It doesn't take that long to do it and image programs, such as Acronis True Image, are very cheap to come by.


----------



## vulcan78

Update: Well guys fortunately I don't have to reinstall Windows! Early on dealing with the problem of the computer refusing to boot I did manage to find a source online to download .ISO's for anyone who has lost their Windows resource disc. In the process I learned that I could put than on a thumb-drive instead of burning to a dvd. The issue here was, and this might be useful information for anyone who encounters this problem in the future, although I successfully made it to the Windows Install/Repair windows, it wouldn't do start-up repair, and after pulling my hair out for a few hours trying to fix the "Boot Manager not found" issue I found a comment below one of the solutions for this issue where the person stated that the issue for them ended up being that the usb stick was connected via USB 3.0 and that putting it in a USB 2.0 problem allowed them to move forward with Start-Up repair! I had just found this information right before I was ready to do a reinstall as I had tried everything including "Bootrec" commands from the cmd prompt window available in Windows Repair.

Here's those ISO's in case anyone needs them:

http://www.techverse.net/download-windows-7-iso-x86-x64-microsofts-official-servers/

Now another issue I realized I have is that I have ZERO restore points for some reason. What is a common reason for this? I would also like to create an .ISO back-up image in case I end up in a similar pickle in the future, I suppose I can just look that up.

Oh and I ordered that EVGA 750 Ti SC, should be here on Thursday, the 11th, I will do some before and after benches in games with intense PhysX. I'm really hoping AC4: Black Flag is playable with PhysX on High now. Witcher 3 and Batman: Arkham Knight are two games coming out this holiday season that will utilize PhysX, so I'm kinda stoked to have a dedicated PhysX card for those, not to mention Metro: LL Redux etc.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Honest to God I feel for you. I highly suggest when you get it all back up and running, that you make a image of your drive. It is just so much easier to reimage a drive than to have to go back and reinstall you operating system and programs. Not to mention, all the hours spent downloading and installing updates, activating your software (if required) and getting everything just right again. A good image of your drive should be your number one priority after doing a clean install of all your software. It will literally save you hours upon hours of unnecessary work should you have a problem. It doesn't take that long to do it and image programs, such as Acronis True Image, are very cheap to come by.


I was lucky this time, do you have an suggestion as to how I accomplish imaging Windows? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I must have gotten very, very lucky with my 32GB kit. I see many people having issues with RAM, even at 1600MHz, heck, then again I see more people having bad experiences with this board than any other board I have owned. I guess that I have been lucky the last fifteen years of computering... lol
> 
> I really do hope that everyone can resolve their respective issues promptly, if only I could be of more assistance.


Usually, when I read about people having problems with RAM, it is because they have mixed two different types of RAM together or they are playing with settings they have no idea about what they are trying to adjust. I have ran 32 and 64gb's of RAM on my systems, setting them as low as 1333 and has high as 2133. I have never had a problem with them, other than my own misunderstanding about how to set my bios to run the most efficient with the different configurations I have attempted to over clock my processor and RAM at. If you buy good RAM and use the same type of RAM in your system, the RIVBE should never give you a problem with getting the most out of it. In fact, one of the best features of the design of the RIVBE, is that it was built to take your RAM as far as it is capable of running. I don't know much about the RVE yet, but if it is even one half as good as the RIVBE, it will be one fantastic mother board to own.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I was lucky this time, do you have an suggestion as to how I accomplish imaging Windows? Thanks in advance.


I have never used any other program for imaging a drive than Acronis. It is very simple to image your drive, ie., to make a perfect copy of whatever is on any of your drives, including Windows. The only thing you need is an external drive with enough space for the image, I use a 1 terabyte USB external for my images, and the imaging program. Acronis comes with a feature for making a rescue disc on a dvd, that you can use incase of total drive failure.

One of the best things I like about making drive images is that I can change operating systems in a matter of minutes, without having to have two different boot partitions. I have an image of Windows 7 Ultimate with all my software that I run and I have another image of Windows 8.1 with all my preferred software. I can change from one to the other by simply using the recover feature of my Acronis program to reimage my drive with whatever image I choose to run. It takes less than six minutes to do it and when I want to change back, I just reimage my drive again with whatever image I want to change to.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I have never used any other program for imaging a drive than Acronis. It is very simple to image your drive, ie., to make a perfect copy of whatever is on any of your drives, including Windows. The only thing you need is an external drive with enough space for the image, I use a 1 terabyte USB external for my images, and the imaging program. Acronis comes with a feature for making a rescue disc on a dvd, that you can use incase of total drive failure.
> 
> One of the best things I like about making drive images is that I can change operating systems in a matter of minutes, without having to have two different boot partitions. I have an image of Windows 7 Ultimate with all my software that I run and I have another image of Windows 8.1 with all my preferred software. I can change from one to the other by simply using the recover feature of my Acronis program to reimage my drive with whatever image I choose to run. It takes less than six minutes to do it and when I want to change back, I just reimage my drive again with whatever image I want to change to.


I'm trying the built-in feature through Windows, its backing up to a 1.5 TB external, I'll let you know how it goes.

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/back-up-programs-system-settings-files#1TC=windows-7


----------



## Kimir

+1 for Acronis, I recall my ocz vector had a simpler version of it (I can send a key, I have 3 of them).
It works the same as the paid version that I have in my USB key.


----------



## inlandchris

+2 Acronis, never leave home without it.

I have 2 external hard drives that I rotate when I make an image once-a-month all connected to USB 3.0. Takes about 2 hours for a complete image and I can sleep at nights now with the shutdown feature when complete.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> HELP, I set CPU freq to 500 and got a BSOD @ 4.6, I then tried staggering the multi's and got anothet BSOD, this time apparently breaking Windows in the process. After splash screen its saying: "reboot and select proprer boot device" alternating with "Windows Boot Manager....status: 0xc000000e...The boot selection failed because a required device is inaccessible".
> 
> I then tried to repair windows with the resource disc but upgraded from Home to Pro a few month ago and its sayng resource disc is incompatible.
> 
> What are my.options? Why did a BSOD break Windows? Is it the motherboard? This sucks, its 10 pm here to top it off. I checked craigslist for a 7 pro disc, none. Cant download, typing this fromy phone.....


I see you've got this resolved - right? The error warning you got is not windows per-se, it's a failed boot sector or something as simple as the bios lost the boot device order. You tried boot override directly to the original boot HDD/SD and it still failed? if yes, then be sure to do a full format of that disc before reinstaling windows.

Acronis! but I've also had great success just using the win7 system image to completely restore a rig. (several times.







)


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I have never used any other program for imaging a drive than Acronis. It is very simple to image your drive, ie., to make a perfect copy of whatever is on any of your drives, including Windows. The only thing you need is an external drive with enough space for the image, I use a 1 terabyte USB external for my images, and the imaging program. Acronis comes with a feature for making a rescue disc on a dvd, that you can use incase of total drive failure.
> 
> One of the best things I like about making drive images is that I can change operating systems in a matter of minutes, without having to have two different boot partitions. I have an image of Windows 7 Ultimate with all my software that I run and I have another image of Windows 8.1 with all my preferred software. I can change from one to the other by simply using the recover feature of my Acronis program to reimage my drive with whatever image I choose to run. It takes less than six minutes to do it and when I want to change back, I just reimage my drive again with whatever image I want to change to.


I have been watching this thread since before I got my board, and I have seen so many issues it is crazy, even from experienced users. The number of "RMA'ing this board tomorrow" posts is crazy to me... This board has been absolutely rock solid, and got me a 4.7GHz overclock with my lowly 4820K (getting my 4930K today!!!), which I couldn't be happier with.


----------



## Raghar

What PCB revision do you have?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 23 days and a wake up and leaving AFG hopefully for the last time. Ready to get home and OC my PC. I know it is not as exotic as the Chiller setups... but hey atleast I have something to strive for once I am boots on ground at home.


Be safe and hurry home brother thanks for your service.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> I see you've got this resolved - right? The error warning you got is not windows per-se, it's a failed boot sector or something as simple as the bios lost the boot device order. You tried boot override directly to the original boot HDD/SD and it still failed? if yes, then be sure to do a full format of that disc before reinstaling windows.
> 
> Acronis! but I've also had great success just using the win7 system image to completely restore a rig. (several times.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Thanks for the reply JPMBoy, yes I got it resolved, although it took several strands of hair and hours of my time fretting about what the problem was. I literally tried everything, including disconnecting all the other drives and moving the boot drive around on the SATA bus. Issue was as I stated earlier, Windows Resource data USB was in a USB 3.0 instead of 2.0 and that was preventing "Start-Up" repair from functioning. I also tried "bootrec" and "diskpart" commands via command promp in repair that got me nowhere.

I'm just going to do a Windows Image on my external 1.5 Tb as I can't swing the money for Acronis and to be honest don't even know what it offers up and over the included Windows imaging system.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> 23 days and a wake up and leaving AFG hopefully for the last time. Ready to get home and OC my PC. I know it is not as exotic as the Chiller setups... but hey atleast I have something to strive for once I am boots on ground at home.


Looks like someone other than myself knows about Noiseblocker E-Loop's!






I know the feeling of desperately waiting to get out of the sandbox, I was in Afghanistan in 2004-2005 with the 25th Infantry Division (U.S. Army active, 1997-2005, Aircraft Armament Missile System Repairman). What's your MOS? If you haven't looked into them yet, Alienware makes some pretty beast mobile gaming PC's. I have an M18x R2 with an i7 3920 @ 4.4 Ghz and a pair of Nvidia GTX 680M's that churn out respectable performance for a laptop:

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/1929071

Nothing like my desktop though (stock gpu clocks/vbios/voltage):

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/2672497


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Came from a rive to this board. Smooth transition. No problems neither. Everything is running so good, I don't want mess with it by upgrading to x99


thought about upgrading to X99 then thought about all the fun I'd be missing with my so young RIVBE. Will max it out and enjoy it a few years.


----------



## supermiguel

Ya im also debating this board or a x99 board


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Update: Well guys fortunately I don't have to reinstall Windows! Early on dealing with the problem of the computer refusing to boot I did manage to find a source online to download .ISO's for anyone who has lost their Windows resource disc. In the process I learned that I could put than on a thumb-drive instead of burning to a dvd. The issue here was, and this might be useful information for anyone who encounters this problem in the future, although I successfully made it to the Windows Install/Repair windows, it wouldn't do start-up repair, and after pulling my hair out for a few hours trying to fix the "Boot Manager not found" issue I found a comment below one of the solutions for this issue where the person stated that the issue for them ended up being that the usb stick was connected via USB 3.0 and that putting it in a USB 2.0 problem allowed them to move forward with Start-Up repair! I had just found this information right before I was ready to do a reinstall as I had tried everything including "Bootrec" commands from the cmd prompt window available in Windows Repair.
> 
> Here's those ISO's in case anyone needs them:
> 
> http://www.techverse.net/download-windows-7-iso-x86-x64-microsofts-official-servers/
> 
> Now another issue I realized I have is that I have ZERO restore points for some reason. What is a common reason for this? I would also like to create an .ISO back-up image in case I end up in a similar pickle in the future, I suppose I can just look that up.
> 
> Oh and I ordered that EVGA 750 Ti SC, should be here on Thursday, the 11th, I will do some before and after benches in games with intense PhysX. I'm really hoping AC4: Black Flag is playable with PhysX on High now. Witcher 3 and Batman: Arkham Knight are two games coming out this holiday season that will utilize PhysX, so I'm kinda stoked to have a dedicated PhysX card for those, not to mention Metro: LL Redux etc.


yep i have win 7 8 and 8.1 all on usb with backups everywhere
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I was lucky this time, do you have an suggestion as to how I accomplish imaging Windows? Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> I have never used any other program for imaging a drive than Acronis. It is very simple to image your drive, ie., to make a perfect copy of whatever is on any of your drives, including Windows. The only thing you need is an external drive with enough space for the image, I use a 1 terabyte USB external for my images, and the imaging program. Acronis comes with a feature for making a rescue disc on a dvd, that you can use incase of total drive failure.
> 
> One of the best things I like about making drive images is that I can change operating systems in a matter of minutes, without having to have two different boot partitions. I have an image of Windows 7 Ultimate with all my software that I run and I have another image of Windows 8.1 with all my preferred software. I can change from one to the other by simply using the recover feature of my Acronis program to reimage my drive with whatever image I choose to run. It takes less than six minutes to do it and when I want to change back, I just reimage my drive again with whatever image I want to change to.
Click to expand...

i just use 2 sdds and never have to wait XD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> I have never used any other program for imaging a drive than Acronis. It is very simple to image your drive, ie., to make a perfect copy of whatever is on any of your drives, including Windows. The only thing you need is an external drive with enough space for the image, I use a 1 terabyte USB external for my images, and the imaging program. Acronis comes with a feature for making a rescue disc on a dvd, that you can use incase of total drive failure.
> 
> One of the best things I like about making drive images is that I can change operating systems in a matter of minutes, without having to have two different boot partitions. I have an image of Windows 7 Ultimate with all my software that I run and I have another image of Windows 8.1 with all my preferred software. I can change from one to the other by simply using the recover feature of my Acronis program to reimage my drive with whatever image I choose to run. It takes less than six minutes to do it and when I want to change back, I just reimage my drive again with whatever image I want to change to.
> 
> 
> 
> I have been watching this thread since before I got my board, and I have seen so many issues it is crazy, even from experienced users. The number of "RMA'ing this board tomorrow" posts is crazy to me... This board has been absolutely rock solid, and got me a 4.7GHz overclock with my lowly 4820K (getting my 4930K today!!!), which I couldn't be happier with.
Click to expand...

congrats !


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Ya im also debating this board or a x99 board


Here's my fairly informed, early, non-specialist opinion: I wouldn't go X99 unless you intend to pick up an $1k octo-core 5960. And even then, until DX12 arrives (if ever) with proper multi-threading support for games $1k doesn't justify the extra cores of the 5960 unless you truly needed it for 3D rendering, video editing, whatever.

Thunderbolt?

DDR4 does run at higher frequencies with lower voltage but jump on now and expect to pay through the nose! And what kind of gains really are we talking about here?

IMHO, a 5930 or 5820 powered X99 isn't really faster than X79, but does carry with it the threat of punishing early adopters (how about that UEFI time-freeze issue that many Z97 early adopters had to deal with, with NO SOLUTION?)

When DX12 becomes a reality and DDR4 and X99 come down in price then yes, X99 for sure.

Until then, no reason to upgrade.

What's funny is I just put together this build a few months ago and everyone was like "you gotta wait for the Haswell E and Maxwell refresh!!!" to which I responded "there is always something better around the corner". Well it looks as though Moor's Law might be being tested right now as both Haswell E and Maxwell (First Wave 28nM?) don't promise to render obsolete Ivy E and top-tier Kepler.

Now everyone is saying Nvidia GTX 980 will actually be slightly slower than 780 Ti with 4GB of VRAM AND, drumroll..........still on 28nM!!






I'm sticking right here for a while, won't consider upgrading until proper 20nM Maxwell arrives and DX12 become standard, probably in 3-5 years time.

(I'm actually already on Maxwell anyhow, EVGA GTX 750 Ti SC as PhysX card







)


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> thought about upgrading to X99 then thought about all the fun I'd be missing with my so young RIVBE. Will max it out and enjoy it a few years.


See above, no point in "upgrading" right now.


----------



## xarot

But you can always have two very cool systems in the house?


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> See above, no point in "upgrading" right now.


That is a VERY good point and that 3-5 year hold period is what I had/have envisioned as my next build window.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Here's my fairly informed, early, non-specialist opinion: I wouldn't go X99 unless you intend to pick up an $1k octo-core 5960. And even then, until DX12 arrives (if ever) with proper multi-threading support for games $1k doesn't justify the extra cores of the 5960 unless you truly needed it for 3D rendering, video editing, whatever.
> 
> Thunderbolt?
> 
> DDR4 does run at higher frequencies with lower voltage but jump on now and expect to pay through the nose! And what kind of gains really are we talking about here?
> 
> IMHO, a 5930 or 5820 powered X99 isn't really faster than X79, but does carry with it the threat of punishing early adopters (how about that UEFI time-freeze issue that many Z97 early adopters had to deal with, with NO SOLUTION?)
> 
> When DX12 becomes a reality and DDR4 and X99 come down in price then yes, X99 for sure.
> 
> Until then, no reason to upgrade.
> 
> What's funny is I just put together this build a few months ago and everyone was like "you gotta wait for the Haswell E and Maxwell refresh!!!" to which I responded "there is always something better around the corner". Well it looks as though Moor's Law might be being tested right now as both Haswell E and Maxwell (First Wave 28nM?) don't promise to render obsolete Ivy E and top-tier Kepler.
> 
> Now everyone is saying Nvidia GTX 980 will actually be slightly slower than 780 Ti with 4GB of VRAM AND, drumroll..........still on 28nM!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sticking right here for a while, won't consider upgrading until proper 20nM Maxwell arrives and DX12 become standard, probably in 3-5 years time.
> 
> (I'm actually already on Maxwell anyhow, EVGA GTX 750 Ti SC as PhysX card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I actually have a 5960x with me debating about returning it, and getting this board and just use my existing 3930k


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> I actually have a 5960x with me debating about returning it, and getting this board and just use my existing 3930k


Too bad you didn't get the TX10-D instead of the TX10-V. You could have had a RIVBE on one side and a RVE on the other, and made them FIGHT each other all in the same case!


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Too bad you didn't get the TX10-D instead of the TX10-V. You could have had a RIVBE on one side and a RVE on the other, and made them FIGHT each other all in the same case!


They sell a conversion kit









Edit: i actually still dont know what to do with the non mobo side


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Ha! I thought you'd hit that tess-off button! Very nice score. I think Hotrod is starting to sweat...


Couldn't resist Jpmboy. Take a look at the signature. I sure could use your help because this X99 Deluxe is significantly different than my RIVBE.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Couldn't resist Jpmboy. Take a look at the signature. I sure could use your help because this X99 Deluxe is significantly different than my RIVBE.


nice!! see:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1510388/haswell-e-overclock-leaderboard-owners-club/0_20

http://www.overclock.net/t/1510328/asus-x99-motherboard-series-official-support-thread/180_20

and

http://www.overclock.net/t/1510001/asus-rampage-v-extreme-owners-thread/380_20

I'll put my r4be/4960x in my daily "work" rig ("BigPicture") ... r5e and 5960x is on ParkBench atm.

enjoy, it's a good platform, but bios still maturing...


----------



## wjturner78

is using this mobo with a 3970x for a htpc overkill?

any pointer or help on my current build would be appreciated!!!





case silverstone gd07
mobo= asus maximus iv black edition
cpu= i7 3970x extreme edition
ram- 64 gigs ripjawsz 2133
pcie ssd= asus raidr 240 gig
storage= 4 3tb seagate barracudas 7200rpm
2 240gb samsung ssd raid 10
2 1tb 2.5 hdssd
gpu= saphire r9-290x
creative sound blaster z
happauge 2250 tuner
happauge colloses hdmi capture card
imon ultra bay
aquaero 6
asus rog oc panel
hot swappable ssd bay
card reader w usb 3.0 esata and always on charge port
2 slim bluray drives
1 140mm noctua fan
2 120mmx12mm fans
2 120mm noctua fans
3 80mm fans
evga 1000w psu
1 240mm rad
1 120mm rad
1 80mm rad
swiftech mcp 355 pump
custom built pump silent box
sleeved led lighting
2 cold cathods
el wire and el tape
everything is mounted with rubber spacers for sound


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> is using this mobo with a 3970x overkill?


Absolutely not.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Absolutely not.


sorry i meant is using this mobo and cpu overkill for a gaming htpc?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> sorry i meant is using this mobo and cpu overkill for a gaming htpc?


Answer remains the same. Basically what I am doing now. With Tri-SLI 780 Ti.


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Absolutely not.


Any pointers for overclocking the new 5930k with a X99 Deluxe. The bios has quite a few differences over the RIVBE.

My new gaming rig.









Please don't laugh at the RAM. It was all I could get my hands on locally while I wait for my backorder from Newegg


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Any pointers for overclocking the new 5930k with a X99 Deluxe. The bios has quite a few differences over the RIVBE.
> 
> My new gaming rig.
> 
> Please don't laugh at the RAM. It was all I could get my hands on locally while I wait for my backorder from Newegg


Looking good!


----------



## Goggle Eye

Looks great







Concerning over clocking not the one to ask leave it up to the more experienced.


----------



## Jpmboy

You'd be surprised at how any of this ddr4 ocs. Head over to the x99 threads. 2 Asus guys are in platform launch mode


----------



## steadly2004

Just picked up a rampage IV black used from a member on here. Looks really nice and well put together. Unfortunately it'll be a bit before I get it installed. I'll have to have some time to fully clean out my loop before re-installing everything. Gotta pull apart my block and clean the inside of that and flush my radiator, since its been like 2 years since it all has had a flush and clean.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> htpc?


Nothing like that exist.


----------



## Gualichu04

Having trouble getting my cpu to 4.6ghz from 4.3ghz i tried 1.33v for 4.6 and after widnwos loads it bsod. Quite annoying to increase from 1.265 to 1.33v and not get a stable clock for 300mhz more.
Settings are here:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 100
ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced
1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. ENABLED
EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Disabled
Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Mode 3
Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. MANUAL
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.265
VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. 1.15v
2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.05v
CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... 1.15
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. Manual.
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.625
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.625
CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. 1.800V
PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 1.1V
Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.75000V
VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 0.75000V
CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Enabled
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Disabled
BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled

CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. HIGH
CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 160%
CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 350
VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;
CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED
Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3x
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 120%
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. OPTIMIZED
PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3x

Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; auto
Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. enabled
Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; enabled
Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 250
Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 300
Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 0.028
CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto

Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled

CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. DISABLED

Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. DISABLED


----------



## Goggle Eye

Having issues with a new R4BE. I7 4930K CPU Memory G-Skill Z Series 2133 16 GB Installed one Evga 780 GTX did not install the second one yet. I want to get the system stable first.

Tried installing a New Intel 730 series SSD to load windows 7 64 bit on. Check the BIOS under tools shows the SSD as Frozen. Checked the BIOS/Advanced Sata ACHI Mode the SSD is enabled and the optic drive. Still shows frozen in BIOS/Tools/SSD secure erase is still frozen. Did not run secure erase in fear of damaging the new SSD.

Removed the SSD returned it back to the vender they checked the SSD on there system and it is recognized My Computer can open the SSD.

Tested the SSD on this system and the SSD is showing in Command Prompt Disk Part and my computer including BIOS.

Tried to install windows to a Velocity Raptor BIOS/Advanced/Sata/enabled ACHI Mode. Same issues cannot install windows. Tried every Sata Port on the mother board same issue cannot install windows. Using the Sata 6 GB cabels that came with the mother board and tried different Sata Cable thinking maybe the Sata Cable was bad. Not the issue.

Tried two different Optic drives and a thumb drive cannot install windows period error code 0X00000e9. Optic drives and thumb drive is not the issue.

Removed a C: Drive from a R3 Black edition and installed it on the R4BE. Booted to windows. The Sata Ports on the mother board are working That is not the issue.

BIOS settings are set to default except the Memory is XMP profile 2133 MHz not 1600MHz. 1.65v Manually set the timing to 9-11-10-28. Why would this setting cause a hard ware failure. I don't think it would.

Up dated the BIOS to version 0701 from a thumb drive hoping the BIOS up date would help. still having the same issues.

This is a different issue want to stay focused on the cannot install windows issue and the SSD issue being frozen under secure erase.

Also getting a O.C. fail hit F-1.

Case fans are connected to a power distribution boards. In BIOS the fan settings is disabled.

CPU fans x 2 are connected to CPU fan headers 1 and 2. In BIOS the fan minimum RPM is set to 200 RPM and Turbo Mode.

I don't get it why is there a over clock fail when the system has never been over clocked. Never O.C. until windows all up dates are finished including loading all of the software and running Prime 95 for 24 hour stability test before O.C. the system.

Is there something I am missing in BIOS settings? Never had issues like this on a mother board any recommendations are appreciated. Appolgise for the long post letting off some steam and frustration as well. Thanks for the replys.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Having trouble getting my cpu to 4.6ghz from 4.3ghz i tried 1.33v for 4.6 and after widnwos loads it bsod. Quite annoying to increase from 1.265 to 1.33v and not get a stable clock for 300mhz more.
> Settings are here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner .&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Manual
> CPU Level Up &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 100
> CPU Strap &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. 100
> ClockGen Full Reset &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> CPU Core Ratio &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Synced
> 1-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> 2-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> 3-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> 4-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> 5-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> 6-Core Ratio Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 43
> Internal PLL Overvoltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> DRAM Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. 21333 MHz
> Xtreme Tweaking &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. ENABLED
> EPU Power Saving Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> EPU Settings &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230; Disabled
> Rampage Tweak &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Mode 3
> Latency Boundary &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. *nearer*
> Extreme OV &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;.&#8230;. Disabled
> BCLK Skew &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. *offset (negative)*
> CPU VCORE Offset Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; *60...try this at first, get used to changing this setting or use Turbo Mv*
> VTT CPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;.. *auto*
> 2nd VTTCPU Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. auto
> CPU VCCSA Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... *0.995*
> CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;. *auto*
> DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. *1.650*
> DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;. *1.650*
> CPU PLL Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;..&#8230;.&#8230;. *1.850V*
> PCH 1.1v Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. *auto*
> Initial PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> Eventual PLL Termination Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHA, CHB) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. auto
> VTTDDR Voltage (CHC, CHD) &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. auto
> CPU PLL Termination &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. *auto*
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Disabled
> PCIE Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..... Disabled
> BCLK Recovery &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> 
> CPU Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. HIGH
> CPU Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 160%
> CPU Voltage Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; *500*
> VRM Over Temperature Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU Power Duty Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. T.Probe
> Vcore MOS volt. Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Auto
> CPU Power Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;
> CPU Spread Spectrum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; DISABLED
> Current Inrush Inertia &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Load-Line Calibration &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> VCCSA Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. *100%*
> VCCSA Fixed Frequency &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. 300
> CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> CPU VTT Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3x
> CPU VTT Over-Current Protection &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Enabled
> DRAM-AB Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. *110%*
> DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-AB Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. *standard*
> DRAM-CD Current Capability &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. *110%*
> DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency ..&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> DRAM-CD Phase Control &#8230;&#8230;.&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. *standard*
> PCH 1.1V Switching Freq &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; 1.3x
> 
> Enhance Intel SpeedStep Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; *enabled*
> Turbo Mode &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. enabled
> Power Limit Control &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; enabled
> Long Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; *auto*
> Long Duration Maintained &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> Short Duration Power Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; *auto*
> Additional Turbo Voltage &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; *0.004*
> CPU Core Current Limit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Auto
> 
> Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..&#8230;. Enabled
> Hyper-threading &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; Enabled
> Active Processor Cores &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. All
> Limit CPUID Maximum &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> Execute Disable Bit &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. Disabled
> Intel Virtualization Technology &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Disabled
> High precision event timer...........................................................*disabled*
> CPU C States &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. DISABLED
> 
> Anti Surge Support &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. DISABLED


Ive changed the ones in bold for you, try that for 4.2ghz and then build up from there.
All you will need to do is increase the offset going from negative to positive or you can do it by changing turbo mv as an alternative or together. I never touch turbo mv i just use the offset voltage.
If its unstable increase the CPU VCORE Offset Voltage a couple of clicks but it should be fine at 4.2 for starters then build up.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Having issues with a new R4BE. I7 4930K CPU Memory G-Skill Z Series 2133 16 GB Installed one Evga 780 GTX did not install the second one yet. I want to get the system stable first.
> 
> Tried installing a New Intel 730 series SSD to load windows 7 64 bit on. Check the BIOS under tools shows the SSD as Frozen. Checked the BIOS/Advanced Sata ACHI Mode the SSD is enabled and the optic drive. Still shows frozen in BIOS/Tools/SSD secure erase is still frozen. Did not run secure erase in fear of damaging the new SSD.
> 
> Removed the SSD returned it back to the vender they checked the SSD on there system and it is recognized My Computer can open the SSD.
> 
> Tested the SSD on this system and the SSD is showing in Command Prompt Disk Part and my computer including BIOS.
> 
> Tried to install windows to a Velocity Raptor BIOS/Advanced/Sata/enabled ACHI Mode. Same issues cannot install windows. Tried every Sata Port on the mother board same issue cannot install windows. Using the Sata 6 GB cabels that came with the mother board and tried different Sata Cable thinking maybe the Sata Cable was bad. Not the issue.
> 
> Tried two different Optic drives and a thumb drive cannot install windows period error code 0X00000e9. Optic drives and thumb drive is not the issue.
> 
> Removed a C: Drive from a R3 Black edition and installed it on the R4BE. Booted to windows. The Sata Ports on the mother board are working That is not the issue.
> 
> BIOS settings are set to default except the Memory is XMP profile 2133 MHz not 1600MHz. 1.65v Manually set the timing to 9-11-10-28. Why would this setting cause a hard ware failure. I don't think it would.
> 
> Up dated the BIOS to version 0701 from a thumb drive hoping the BIOS up date would help. still having the same issues.
> 
> This is a different issue want to stay focused on the cannot install windows issue and the SSD issue being frozen under secure erase.
> 
> Also getting a O.C. fail hit F-1.
> 
> Case fans are connected to a power distribution boards. In BIOS the fan settings is disabled.
> 
> CPU fans x 2 are connected to CPU fan headers 1 and 2. In BIOS the fan minimum RPM is set to 200 RPM and Turbo Mode.
> 
> I don't get it why is there a over clock fail when the system has never been over clocked. Never O.C. until windows all up dates are finished including loading all of the software and running Prime 95 for 24 hour stability test before O.C. the system.
> 
> Is there something I am missing in BIOS settings? Never had issues like this on a mother board any recommendations are appreciated. Appolgise for the long post letting off some steam and frustration as well. Thanks for the replys.


Try my settings above in the above post.


----------



## _REAPER_

Is there something I am missing in BIOS settings? Never had issues like this on a mother board any recommendations are appreciated. Appolgise for the long post letting off some steam and frustration as well. Thanks for the replys.[/quote]

Try my settings above in the above post.[/quote]

Do you have settings for 4.4ghz? I would much appreciate it if you could PM them to me


----------



## mikep577

I have a slight problem with booting my rig, it tell's me after a cold start that that my CPU fan is failing... this was introduced after updating my bios to 501. Anyone an idea what it could be?


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Ok here is all my bios settings for 4.2ghz Ht on, 1.056v max load Prime stable for 1hr using *Custom time to run each FFTS size 5min* and *12228 Memory (75%*).
> No game is going to max your cpu are generate the amount of heat that Prime, Occt, Linx or Ibt generate.
> There is no point torturing your cpu for hrs upon hrs at high clocks because it will simply degrade quicker.
> Here is all my bios setting
> 
> my4930kbios4.2stable.zip 1764k .zip file


This is an earlier post from in the thread that ive quoted.
Here are my bios settings for 4.2 but for 4.4 all you do is change the offset to negative 50 from negative 130.
You must understand that my cpu operates on a low offset so if your cpu does not work at 4.4 at negative 50 then try negative 30, 20, 10, positive 10, 20, 30, 40 etc until you find stability.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikep577*
> 
> I have a slight problem with booting my rig, it tell's me after a cold start that that my CPU fan is failing... this was introduced after updating my bios to 501. Anyone an idea what it could be?


Update to the 701 bios, i have found i can run at a lower offset at 4ghz with 701 (i think) than what i could at 501 or 507 (whatever it was).
Try updating your bios and if that dont work disable the fan montoring from the bios.
I have all my mobo fans disabled as i dont draw any power from my mobo fan headers.


----------



## steadly2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Having issues with a new R4BE. I7 4930K CPU Memory G-Skill Z Series 2133 16 GB Installed one Evga 780 GTX did not install the second one yet. I want to get the system stable first.
> 
> Tried installing a New Intel 730 series SSD to load windows 7 64 bit on. Check the BIOS under tools shows the SSD as Frozen. Checked the BIOS/Advanced Sata ACHI Mode the SSD is enabled and the optic drive. Still shows frozen in BIOS/Tools/SSD secure erase is still frozen. Did not run secure erase in fear of damaging the new SSD.
> 
> Removed the SSD returned it back to the vender they checked the SSD on there system and it is recognized My Computer can open the SSD.
> 
> Tested the SSD on this system and the SSD is showing in Command Prompt Disk Part and my computer including BIOS.
> 
> Tried to install windows to a Velocity Raptor BIOS/Advanced/Sata/enabled ACHI Mode. Same issues cannot install windows. Tried every Sata Port on the mother board same issue cannot install windows. Using the Sata 6 GB cabels that came with the mother board and tried different Sata Cable thinking maybe the Sata Cable was bad. Not the issue.
> 
> Tried two different Optic drives and a thumb drive cannot install windows period error code 0X00000e9. Optic drives and thumb drive is not the issue.
> 
> Removed a C: Drive from a R3 Black edition and installed it on the R4BE. Booted to windows. The Sata Ports on the mother board are working That is not the issue.
> 
> BIOS settings are set to default except the Memory is XMP profile 2133 MHz not 1600MHz. 1.65v Manually set the timing to 9-11-10-28. Why would this setting cause a hard ware failure. I don't think it would.
> 
> Up dated the BIOS to version 0701 from a thumb drive hoping the BIOS up date would help. still having the same issues.
> 
> This is a different issue want to stay focused on the cannot install windows issue and the SSD issue being frozen under secure erase.
> 
> Also getting a O.C. fail hit F-1.
> 
> Case fans are connected to a power distribution boards. In BIOS the fan settings is disabled.
> 
> CPU fans x 2 are connected to CPU fan headers 1 and 2. In BIOS the fan minimum RPM is set to 200 RPM and Turbo Mode.
> 
> I don't get it why is there a over clock fail when the system has never been over clocked. Never O.C. until windows all up dates are finished including loading all of the software and running Prime 95 for 24 hour stability test before O.C. the system.
> 
> Is there something I am missing in BIOS settings? Never had issues like this on a mother board any recommendations are appreciated. Appolgise for the long post letting off some steam and frustration as well. Thanks for the replys.


First load defaults. Then are you installing from USB? What's the error?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*


Maybe you misunderstood. The settings I posted are the stable at 4.3ghz when I tried to get 4.5 GHz at 1.33 could core volt it wasn't stable. I will try those settings and work from there. Is it easier on the CPU to over clock with offset or something?


----------



## Ubeermench

Restarted my pc because none of my youtube videos were playing. Now its stuck on the bios screen and its displaying code 64 and won't get pass the bios screen. Can't even get into the bios. Tried reseting the cmos and removing the battery for a bit, still nothing. Samething happened with my other board and it fried my cpu. Think the something is occurring now and i haven't had this board for more than a month.

Anyone had this problem before?


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Maybe you misunderstood. The settings I posted are the stable at 4.3ghz when I tried to get 4.5 GHz at 1.33 could core volt it wasn't stable. I will try those settings and work from there. Is it easier on the CPU to over clock with offset or something?


I think its better because you undervolt while idle but then have a nice OC when its needed. When i first got mine i tried to rush with a massive OC but JPMboy helped me out along with Cat.
I took a breather and went from 4.2, 4.4, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, 5.0.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubeermench*
> 
> Restarted my pc because none of my youtube videos were playing. Now its stuck on the bios screen and its displaying code 64 and won't get pass the bios screen. Can't even get into the bios. Tried reseting the cmos and removing the battery for a bit, still nothing. Samething happened with my other board and it fried my cpu. Think the something is occurring now and i haven't had this board for more than a month.
> 
> Anyone had this problem before?


I had that problem at one stage, i took the battery out, reset cmos, turned PC off from wall socket for a minute and then turned back on and reflashed bios and all was good.

Failed that it could be a ram problem (mixing ram or faulty ram) regarding error code 60, take alook at this thread.
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/pc-wont-boot-stuck-on-0x60.197194/


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> But you can always have two very cool systems in the house?


Thinking about it. So many options.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Working on a bclk overclock and the ram numbers don't look too bad:


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> I think its better because you undervolt while idle but then have a nice OC when its needed. When i first got mine i tried to rush with a massive OC but JPMboy helped me out along with Cat.
> I took a breather and went from 4.2, 4.4, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, 5.0.


When you put the offset voltage at 60 did u mean 0.060v?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Managed to get a [email protected] outta my 2666 Dom plats on 4960x









http://valid.x86.fr/jmc3g5


----------



## Goggle Eye

Here's those ISO's in case anyone needs them

Thank you for the link to the ISO

First load defaults. Then are you installing from USB? What's the error?

Thanks loaded the default settings the

SSD is still Frozen other errors are resolved. Thank you for asking.

Did some more work on the issue yesterday. The O.S. DVD was bad.

Down Loaded the ISO File for Windows 7 and installed the ISO file to a thumb drive. Cleaned and formatted the thumb command prompt then used the Microsoft USB down load tool. Installed the thumb drive booted to BIOS first Boot Option Thumb Drive.

Good news install the O.S. to the first screen. Did not install the O.S. since one Velocity Raptor was installed. *Need to install the OS to the Intel Series 730 SSD it is Frozen.*

When installed to a different computer the SSD is not Frozen. There is a issue in BIOS probably a wrong setting?

In Bios settings are: BIOS/Advanced Tab/Sata Configuration (Manual Page 3-44). The SSD is showing up and selected ACHI Mode/(Installing one SSD only once windows and up dates are completed to the SSD then will install 4 Velocity Raptors. SSD has to be in ACHI Mode/ enable. So the SSD should be ready to install windows on. per manual Page 3-44 in order for Secure Erase to work the SSD must be in ACHI Mode.
*

There is a warning verify the SSD on Asus Web sight in BIOS. Big Yellow warning. In the manual on page 3-44 same warning. Cannot find the list of SSD on Asus Support web sight.

Manual Page 3-44 foot notes. Frozen State is the result of a BIOS Protective measure. The BIOS guards drives that do not have password protection by freezing them prior to booting. If the drive is Frozen, a power off or a hard reset of your PC must be performed to proceed wit the secure erase.

Maybe I am missing a setting in BIOS to get the SSD out of a Frozen State?

1. I do not want any passwords set up on this computer.
2. Could a hard reset damage a SSD?
3. Does any one have a link to the Approved list of SSD for Secure Erase on the Asus Web Sight?
4. Will Secure Erase Damage a Intel 730 Series SSD?
5. Is there any other settings in BIOS that needs to be done in order to get the SSD out of a Frozen Mode?

Again long post appologies*


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> I had that problem at one stage, i took the battery out, reset cmos, turned PC off from wall socket for a minute and then turned back on and reflashed bios and all was good.
> 
> Failed that it could be a ram problem (mixing ram or faulty ram) regarding error code 60, take alook at this thread.
> http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/pc-wont-boot-stuck-on-0x60.197194/


I read those posts on techpowerup and that one rings a big bell! I had a Rampage IV Extreme with Kingston 32 GB installed and the memory was slowly going down in the bios status; that is, was 32, then dropped to 24, then 16, and finally 8GB. I moved the ram all around and found the upper banks were gone but if I put mem to those banks, it caused other thing to fail. I then bought G.Skill Ripjaws Z 2133 mhz for 32 GB and sadly it didnt fix the problem.
Bottom line was I could not fix it and didnt want to RMA the mobo to ASUS because I know their reputation on repair (fair but months long). So, I bought the new R4BE and glad I did, wow, what a board and what I have been missing all this time.
I think the quality control of ASUS mobo is not up to snuff so if you get a good board, great, if you get a bad board, buy another and send the old one in for RMA and use it as a spare or givie to someone.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Okay replacement 3930k from intel and pretty much 5 gigs straight outta the box [email protected]@1.365vc ....











http://valid.canardpc.com/ec529m

I ran HWBOT prime to see vcore


----------



## Kimir

That's a good one damn! Such low vcore for 5Gigaturtle!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

But it's just okay he says, what's a good one?


















Could probably get a decent amount of cash for it since it clocks good.


----------



## Kimir

It would be a good one if it scale on LN2, perhaps? I know he isn't into that but you know.
Or is it okay till he sees if the IMC is good as well.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That's a good one damn! Such low vcore for 5Gigaturtle!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> But it's just okay he says, what's a good one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could probably get a decent amount of cash for it since it clocks good.
Click to expand...

Yep and yep , and yeah 2 outta 3 3930k's aint bad ........



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It would be a good one if it scale on LN2, perhaps? I know he isn't into that but you know.
> Or is it okay till he sees if the IMC is good as well.


That's next and then I will chuck it on my RIVE with 4102 bios and gunn settings .........
Im dedicated though ........



and this chestnut ......



http://valid.canardpc.com/yd8ap7 ........................


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Here's those ISO's in case anyone needs them
> 
> Thank you for the link to the ISO
> 
> First load defaults. Then are you installing from USB? What's the error?
> 
> Thanks loaded the default settings the
> 
> SSD is still Frozen other errors are resolved. Thank you for asking.
> 
> Did some more work on the issue yesterday. The O.S. DVD was bad.
> 
> Down Loaded the ISO File for Windows 7 and installed the ISO file to a thumb drive. Cleaned and formatted the thumb command prompt then used the Microsoft USB down load tool. Installed the thumb drive booted to BIOS first Boot Option Thumb Drive.
> 
> Good news install the O.S. to the first screen. Did not install the O.S. since one Velocity Raptor was installed. *Need to install the OS to the Intel Series 730 SSD it is Frozen.*
> 
> When installed to a different computer the SSD is not Frozen. There is a issue in BIOS probably a wrong setting?
> 
> In Bios settings are: BIOS/Advanced Tab/Sata Configuration (Manual Page 3-44). The SSD is showing up and selected ACHI Mode/(Installing one SSD only once windows and up dates are completed to the SSD then will install 4 Velocity Raptors. SSD has to be in ACHI Mode/ enable. So the SSD should be ready to install windows on. per manual Page 3-44 in order for Secure Erase to work the SSD must be in ACHI Mode.
> *
> 
> There is a warning verify the SSD on Asus Web sight in BIOS. Big Yellow warning. In the manual on page 3-44 same warning. Cannot find the list of SSD on Asus Support web sight.
> 
> Manual Page 3-44 foot notes. Frozen State is the result of a BIOS Protective measure. The BIOS guards drives that do not have password protection by freezing them prior to booting. If the drive is Frozen, a power off or a hard reset of your PC must be performed to proceed wit the secure erase.
> 
> Maybe I am missing a setting in BIOS to get the SSD out of a Frozen State?
> 
> 1. I do not want any passwords set up on this computer.
> 2. Could a hard reset damage a SSD?
> 3. Does any one have a link to the Approved list of SSD for Secure Erase on the Asus Web Sight?
> 4. Will Secure Erase Damage a Intel 730 Series SSD?
> 5. Is there any other settings in BIOS that needs to be done in order to get the SSD out of a Frozen Mode?
> 
> Again long post appologies*


Cant you use another SSD as your boot drive to get things up and running and then once you get into windows format the old one that is locked and just use it as a games drive?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> When you put the offset voltage at 60 did u mean 0.060v?


Yes thats correct, although with your cpu it may be more or less give or take a little.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Cant you use another SSD as your boot drive to get things up and running and then once you get into windows format the old one that is locked and just use it as a games drive

V3Vetran Thanks for the recommendation. Will install the SSD to this computer disconnect the C: drive and see if windows will install to the SSD. At this point it is worth a try. Heck it might work?

No Have one SSD. Do have a Velocity Raptor Platter drive could use.

If you can see the SSD in Command Prompt.

Getting a message when trying to install windows 7 Ultimate from the thumb drive. Cannot find drivers. Down loaded the Windows 7 Ultimate from Digital River. Migrated the ISO file using Microsoft tool. Could not find the .exe file

Took the Thumb drive and the CD and asked a tech shop to run the CD with the O.S. Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit. Could not run the disk.

Had them install windows on to the thumb drive thinking maybe I did something wrong or had a bad down load of the ISO file. Still getting a message cannot locate drivers from the windows install prompt. This is on the R4BE. Cannot read the .exe file again message cannot locate drivers.

Took the thumb drive and hooked it up to this computer booted to the Thumb drive to see if windows would install. On this computer can see .exe file for installation. Clicked on the .exe file and windows started to install on C: platter drive.

The R4BE is still showing the SSD as Frozen did a hard shut down. Booted to BIOS on the R4BE and turned off the power switch per instructions to do a hard shut down still Frozen. Not sure if the SSD with windows installed will work or not?


----------



## V3teran

When you get that problem installing windows 7 as in "drivers not found" you need to disconnect all the other Hardrives from your system while you install windows. Once windows is installed reconnect the drives and all is good. Make sure you setup the boot order correctly from the bios.

Maybe if you can get things up and running you can run a HD test to see if the drive has failed.

Use this software.
Version 4.40 Pro free now.

*Hard Disk Sentinel Professional v.4.40 Pro Free Full Version*
_The program is automatically activated after the installation, and you can use the full version._

*Download*
http://dl4.comss.ru/download/hdsentinel_pro_setup_440_sharewareonsale.zip


----------



## falb0ner

Hey everyone.

So i'm finally finishing my 4930k / ASUS Rampage IV Black build, and i'm already to start overclocking. Since i'm pretty new to overclocking in general, i've been trying to find a good walk-through on how to properly overclock this setup. I've done a few searches here but i can't seem to find any "offical" threads on how to overclock this setup; which includes what software to have (such as Intel SMART Connect/Engine Components,etc). I found this thread over on the ROG website but can anyone link me to a thread here? My Previous build was an old AsRock z77 and there was a great guide i had saved and i'm looking for something similiar with my new build. thanks!

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Ivy-Bridge-E-Easy-Overclocking-Guide-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys how many of you are going to be holfing on to your X79 setups now that X99 has released? How much longer do you all think X79 will be a good platform for gaming ect.. ? I was thinking of going X99 but am really considering keeping my x79, 3930k for a while longer. Would like to try to keeo it as long as possible as long as its continues to perfrom good. Maybe wait till the prices drop and any bugs get taken care of with x99 and ddr4 ?


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Yes thats correct, although with your cpu it may be more or less give or take a little.


So far it is stable at negative 50 offset. @ 4.3ghz. I tried 4.4 and 4.5 at positive offset of 20-60 and it wasn't stable. went up to 1.36v for 4.4 and 4.5ghz. For some reason even at 5 postive offset the volts at laod went over 1.3.


----------



## V3teran

Try increasing the offset abit more or leave the offset and increase Turbo Mv instead, try that.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys how many of you are going to be holfing on to your X79 setups now that X99 has released? How much longer do you all think X79 will be a good platform for gaming ect.. ? I was thinking of going X99 but am really considering keeping my x79, 3930k for a while longer. Would like to try to keeo it as long as possible as long as its continues to perfrom good. Maybe wait till the prices drop and any bugs get taken care of with x99 and ddr4 ?


Going from a 4930k/4960k to anything under a 5960k will be a sidegrade at best. Not worth it in my opinion for gaming, benching maybe but no change in gaming whatsoever will you see.


----------



## ShadowBroker

I am having a problem with my current system. I am starting to think that it is caused by my RIVE BE. The MB is connected to the WLAN router with wire. Every time I start up the computer the wireless networks just does not work. It connects to the devices every now and then but the data transfer rates are really low. Basically the WLAN is unusable. When I shut the computer down, WLAN starts working.

I have BIOS 0701 installed. The same happened with previous BIOS -version. I've also tried another router with exact same result.

Does anyone have an idea how can I check whether this is caused by MB or something else in the system? Thanks!


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Try increasing the offset abit more or leave the offset and increase Turbo Mv instead, try that.


So should i leave it at negative or postive offset to try and get more than 4.3ghz? Voltage went up quite a bit with positive.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Okay replacement 3930k from intel and pretty much 5 gigs straight outta the box [email protected]@1.365vc ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/ec529m
> 
> I ran HWBOT prime to see vcore


Nice overclock and voltage, I wish my 3930K could do that.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> So should i leave it at negative or postive offset to try and get more than 4.3ghz? Voltage went up quite a bit with positive.


Leav a usb thumb drive in go to your bios and take pictures of each and every page so i can take alook.
Then pop all the pictures off your thumb drive in a folder and right click on it, send to, compressed.
Then upload it here using the attachment in the post.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShadowBroker*
> 
> I am having a problem with my current system. I am starting to think that it is caused by my RIVE BE. The MB is connected to the WLAN router with wire. Every time I start up the computer the wireless networks just does not work. It connects to the devices every now and then but the data transfer rates are really low. Basically the WLAN is unusable. When I shut the computer down, WLAN starts working.
> 
> I have BIOS 0701 installed. The same happened with previous BIOS -version. I've also tried another router with exact same result.
> 
> Does anyone have an idea how can I check whether this is caused by MB or something else in the system? Thanks!


If you have a WLAN router you need to make sure the Ethernet cable is plugged into the proper Ethernet connector and not the WLAN connector which goes from the Router to the socket in the wall where your Internet connection comes into the house.

Is the WLAN enabled in the bios and have you installed the WLAN drivers?


----------



## Gualichu04

Biospics.zip 1098k .zip file

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Leav a usb thumb drive in go to your bios and take pictures of each and every page so i can take alook.
> Then pop all the pictures off your thumb drive in a folder and right click on it, send to, compressed.
> Then upload it here using the attachment in the post.


Here is the pictures you requested if i am missing any let me know.


----------



## Goggle Eye

When you get that problem installing windows 7 as in "drivers not found" you need to disconnect all the other Hardrives from your system while you install windows. Once windows is installed reconnect the drives and all is good. Make sure you setup the boot order correctly from the bios.

There was only one SSD connected that's it. Did not connect the other platter drives. Thanks for the tip.

Maybe if you can get things up and running you can run a HD test to see if the drive has failed.

Thanks for the link. Intel has some tools.

Burned a lot of midnight oil working on why the OS would not install from a thumb drive. Pulling the hair out. Downloading the ISO file from Digital River and using the Microsoft Windows 7 USB DVD Down Load Tool or command prompt installing to a Thumb drive.

Called Asus Tech Support in USA and they informed me the Secure Erase showing the SSD was Frozen had nothing to do with installing windows to the SSD. Asked if they had approved list for SSD to use Secure Erase answer is no. My chin hit the floor. There recommendation was to use the top black Sata Ports not the Grey Sata Ports since the Grey sata Ports are read only. Think the top two grey ports are read and write the last two (Bottom) are read only. Ok I thought the first set of Gray Sata Ports were faster Could be wrong on this? The manual states the top two black sata ports are for optic drives read at 3 gb not 6 gb?

Would some one please verify what are the best Sata Ports for SSD Black or Grey?

I called Microsoft support they told me to burn the ISO file to a DVD Disk and do not install it to a Thumb Drive asked why? The R4BE is UEFI BIOS and UEFI BIOS on some M/Boards you cannot install Windows 7 Ultimate 64 BIT from a Thumb drive cannot read the drivers in the OS Folders and or all of the files. The ISO file must be burned to a DVD Disk.

Burned the ISO file to a DVD using the Microsoft Utility and Windows installed.









Suggestion down load the ISO file for your version of OS. Must be exact version or the Key will not work even if you call in to unlock the OS. Keep the ISO file in a safe place. Thumb Drive is not a safe place


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Biospics.zip 1098k .zip file
> 
> Here is the pictures you requested if i am missing any let me know.


Ok i will take alook tomorrow as its bedtime now.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> When you get that problem installing windows 7 as in "drivers not found" you need to disconnect all the other Hardrives from your system while you install windows. Once windows is installed reconnect the drives and all is good. Make sure you setup the boot order correctly from the bios.
> 
> There was only one SSD connected that's it. Did not connect the other platter drives. Thanks for the tip.
> 
> Maybe if you can get things up and running you can run a HD test to see if the drive has failed.
> 
> Thanks for the link. Intel has some tools.
> 
> Burned a lot of midnight oil working on why the OS would not install from a thumb drive. Pulling the hair out. Downloading the ISO file from Digital River and using the Microsoft Windows 7 USB DVD Down Load Tool or command prompt installing to a Thumb drive.
> 
> Called Asus Tech Support in USA and they informed me the Secure Erase showing the SSD was Frozen had nothing to do with installing windows to the SSD. Asked if they had approved list for SSD to use Secure Erase answer is no. My chin hit the floor. There recommendation was to use the top black Sata Ports not the Grey Sata Ports since the Grey sata Ports are read only. Think the top two grey ports are read and write the last two (Bottom) are read only. Ok I thought the first set of Gray Sata Ports were faster Could be wrong on this? The manual states the top two black sata ports are for optic drives read at 3 gb not 6 gb?
> 
> Would some one please verify what are the best Sata Ports for SSD Black or Grey?
> 
> I called Microsoft support they told me to burn the ISO file to a DVD Disk and do not install it to a Thumb Drive asked why? The R4BE is UEFI BIOS and UEFI BIOS on some M/Boards you cannot install Windows 7 Ultimate 64 BIT from a Thumb drive cannot read the drivers in the OS Folders and or all of the files. The ISO file must be burned to a DVD Disk.
> 
> Burned the ISO file to a DVD using the Microsoft Utility and Windows installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Suggestion down load the ISO file for your version of OS. Must be exact version or the Key will not work even if you call in to unlock the OS. Keep the ISO file in a safe place. Thumb Drive is not a safe place


Well ive ran lots of operating systems from USB using this method works for windows 7 and windows 8. Ive tested it and its the only one i use from the many videos that claim to show how to do it only some actually work.






This video shows how to use Hirens boot cd which has lots of different tools along with Windows 7 or 8 (ive tried both and it works).
First download one of these as it shows in the video then follow the video, this tool will prep the USB for you ready for the OS.
http://www.winsetupfromusb.com/downloads/
Im using v 1.0 and have used it for alongtime.

Follow the video but just ignore the hirens bit and follow the windows os part unless you want to put hirens on aswell.
Once you have done this it will take a while to copy the files over, it looks like the system is hanging but it isnt, just be patient.
Once it says Job done reboot pc, set boot from usb in windows and you should be good to go.









Also sometimes its possible that certain USB sticks dont work, i have one that does not work but the rest do with this method.
Oh yeah im using all the Grey sata ports on my motherboard.


----------



## Mega Man

i install from usb thumb drives often


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Going from a 4930k/4960k to anything under a 5960k will be a sidegrade at best. Not worth it in my opinion for gaming, benching maybe but no change in gaming whatsoever will you see.


Sounds about right to me ........ when I do x99 octacore for me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Nice overclock and voltage, I wish my 3930K could do that.


The rma replacement is even better than the IMC dead one I had . Total tank benched over 1.7vc @ 5.2 for many months .......









Okay set it up to run @ 4.7 , [email protected]@1.3vc in bios LLC on high and 1.26vc under load ........ wow impressive .These later run costas are the bomb


----------



## Fidelitas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Sounds about right to me ........ when I do x99 octacore for me
> The rma replacement is even better than the IMC dead one I had . Total tank benched over 1.7vc @ 5.2 for many months .......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay set it up to run @ 4.7 , [email protected]@1.3vc in bios LLC on high and 1.26vc under load ........ wow impressive .These later run costas are the bomb


Trust me Home when I tell you, as a person who has a 4960x build and a new 5930k build, there is a lot of performance difference between an X79 and X99 platform. The only complaint that I have so far with the X99 build is the piece of junk X99 Deluxe mb, I bought. I have taken the first two back and ready to pitch the third one I am now using. Owning a RIVBE, makes everything else look like junk in comparison. I am currently waiting on a new RVE to show up at the front door. Hopefully, Asus did a better job with it than the X99 Deluxe.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Well ive ran lots of operating systems from USB using this method works for windows 7 and windows 8. Ive tested it and its the only one i use from the many videos that claim to show how to do it only some actually work.

Thanks for both links and watched the videos. Give it a try not for a while need to get the R4BE up and running test for stability. +1 Rep

i install from usb thumb drives often

Thanks Mega for the info







was thinking the R4BE due to the UEFI could not install windows with a Flash Drive.

Did change the Sata Port for the SSD to the first Grey Intel X79 ATA 6.0 Gb. The first four black Intel X79 Serial ATA 3.0 Gb will install the Velocity Raptors to these ports.

Can some one tell me if it is OK to use Secure Erase on a Intel 730 series SSD?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Sounds about right to me ........ when I do x99 octacore for me
> The rma replacement is even better than the IMC dead one I had . Total tank benched over 1.7vc @ 5.2 for many months .......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay set it up to run @ 4.7 , [email protected]@1.3vc in bios LLC on high and 1.26vc under load ........ wow impressive .These later run costas are the bomb


1.7vc you say, how much voltage is appropriate for water cooling under benchmarks? I guess my chip is doing 4,7 Ghz at about 1,5 vc (boots at 1,456vc, but BSOD in P95 after 2 sec), maybe a little less voltage, but if I am able to push further than 1,5 volt I might be able to get 4,8 or 4,9 Ghz out of it. Temperatures is below 70C at 1,44 volt and 4,6 Ghz with P95, 65C when benching.

My 3930K-chip is pretty old I think, bought it used, but it is a Costa Rica. Getting a 4930K any day now.


----------



## bobaffett

I just got this off the marketplace

http://www.overclock.net/t/1509842/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-motherboard

So excited!

now I just need a real PSU and memory to match this beast


----------



## ShadowBroker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> If you have a WLAN router you need to make sure the Ethernet cable is plugged into the proper Ethernet connector and not the WLAN connector which goes from the Router to the socket in the wall where your Internet connection comes into the house.
> 
> Is the WLAN enabled in the bios and have you installed the WLAN drivers?


I am not sure where you got that all the connections would be wrong. The computer (MB) is attached in port 1/4. I am not using WLAN with this MB, only cable connection.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> 1.7vc you say, how much voltage is appropriate for water cooling under benchmarks? I guess my chip is doing 4,7 Ghz at about 1,5 vc (boots at 1,456vc, but BSOD in P95 after 2 sec), maybe a little less voltage, but if I am able to push further than 1,5 volt I might be able to get 4,8 or 4,9 Ghz out of it. Temperatures is below 70C at 1,44 volt and 4,6 Ghz with P95, 65C when benching.
> 
> My 3930K-chip is pretty old I think, bought it used, but it is a Costa Rica. Getting a 4930K any day now.


I use sub ambient cooling that's why I was running it @ 1.7vc plus that sample had degraded some what . Don't use those volts you will kill your chip


----------



## ITAngel

So far seems I can run my 3930k at 4.5Ghz with 1.375v and Temps at 40 degree with my Noctua NH-D14. Seems to do fine, Going to drop voltage again see how far I can bring it down. I know a I did a test with 1.35v and crashed on the 4th test.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I use sub ambient cooling that's why I was running it @ 1.7vc plus that sample had degraded some what . Don't use those volts you will kill your chip


Okay, I will not do that then. As I said, new chip coming any day, will try to run it under 1.4 vc and hope for good temperatures, 2x MO-RA3 420 should do the trick though, or else I get another one.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Well ive ran lots of operating systems from USB using this method works for windows 7 and windows 8. Ive tested it and its the only one i use from the many videos that claim to show how to do it only some actually work.
> 
> Thanks for both links and watched the videos. Give it a try not for a while need to get the R4BE up and running test for stability. +1 Rep
> 
> i install from usb thumb drives often
> 
> Thanks Mega for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was thinking the R4BE due to the UEFI could not install windows with a Flash Drive.
> 
> Did change the Sata Port for the SSD to the first Grey Intel X79 ATA 6.0 Gb. The first four black Intel X79 Serial ATA 3.0 Gb will install the Velocity Raptors to these ports.
> 
> Can some one tell me if it is OK to use Secure Erase on a Intel 730 series SSD?


Ok no problem, i have never used Secure Erase but i imagine it would work fine on any SSD as all its doing is erasing the data on the SSD ready for new data.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShadowBroker*
> 
> I am not sure where you got that all the connections would be wrong. The computer (MB) is attached in port 1/4. I am not using WLAN with this MB, only cable connection.


Sorry i misunderstood.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> Trust me Home when I tell you, as a person who has a 4960x build and a new 5930k build, there is a lot of performance difference between an X79 and X99 platform. The only complaint that I have so far with the X99 build is the piece of junk X99 Deluxe mb, I bought. I have taken the first two back and ready to pitch the third one I am now using. Owning a RIVBE, makes everything else look like junk in comparison. I am currently waiting on a new RVE to show up at the front door. Hopefully, Asus did a better job with it than the X99 Deluxe.


Like i said for gaming you will see no difference between them, as a matter of fact a highly clocked devils canyon will be better in games as games like High core speeds. Hardly anygames take advantage of the extra cores infact i would struggle to count the games on one hand that take advantage of 6 cores properly and truely.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Sounds about right to me ........ when I do x99 octacore for me
> The rma replacement is even better than the IMC dead one I had . Total tank benched over 1.7vc @ 5.2 for many months .......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay set it up to run @ 4.7 , [email protected]@1.3vc in bios LLC on high and 1.26vc under load ........ wow impressive .These later run costas are the bomb


Nice clocks man, very cool.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Biospics.zip 1098k .zip file
> 
> Here is the pictures you requested if i am missing any let me know.


I looked at your bios settings...

Ok first try setting your Ai overclock tuner to *Manual* instead of XMP as this can cause instability i have found with offset.
2nd VTT voltage set to *auto*
VTTDDR voltage set BOTH to *auto*
short duration power limit set to *auto*
Enhanced Intel speedstep set to *enabled*
CPU VTT overcurrent set to *auto*

What are your DRAM timings?
Set it to *mode 3*
Latency boundary to *regular*
Then input your memorys rated timings which should read on the box

Try those


----------



## vulcan78

care to elaborate on the poor build quality?


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> care to elaborate on the poor build quality?


Who is that aimed at?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, *I will not do that then.* As I said, new chip coming any day, will try to run it under 1.4 vc and hope for good temperatures, 2x MO-RA3 420 should do the trick though, or else I get another one.










HCPC runs voltages like none other. Take his advice!


----------



## Fidelitas

HCPC has a cooling system like no other....lol. He is as close to LN2 as it gets. I went out and purchased a 5960X today. I am very impressed with how well this processor performs. Definitely makes the 5930k and 4960X look small in comparison. I cannot wait until my new RAM gets here and I can start playing around in the 3000 league.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> I looked at your bios settings...
> 
> Ok first try setting your Ai overclock tuner to *Manual* instead of XMP as this can cause instability i have found with offset.
> 2nd VTT voltage set to *auto*
> VTTDDR voltage set BOTH to *auto*
> short duration power limit set to *auto*
> Enhanced Intel speedstep set to *enabled*
> CPU VTT overcurrent set to *auto*
> 
> What are your DRAM timings?
> Set it to *mode 3*
> Latency boundary to *regular*
> Then input your memorys rated timings which should read on the box
> 
> Try those


Thanks a lot. Changed all the settings and so far have 4.3ghz with negative offset of 50 still. I wonder which way i should go to try and get more of a overclock. Negative or positive offset. It is at 1.264v on load at 4.3ghz. Trying offset negative as low as i can go then will try positive to try and get 4.4ghz. Seems like my cpu is voltage hungry after 4.3ghz. It needs positive offset 20 which is 1.328V for 4.4ghz hardly seems worth it over 4.3ghz. unless i can get it up to 4.7ghz+ under 1.4V.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> HCPC has a cooling system like no other....lol. He is as close to LN2 as it gets. I went out and purchased a 5960X today. I am very impressed with how well this processor performs. Definitely makes the 5930k and 4960X look small in comparison. I cannot wait until my new RAM gets here and I can start playing around in the 3000 league.


what clock/voltage were you running to hit temps in the high50's? Hopefully that's not stock clocks.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> what clock/voltage were you running to hit temps in the high50's? Hopefully that's not stock clocks.


Shouldn't be. I go barely over that with max OC. Maybe if using a tiny air cooler.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Hey guys I am having a issue with sound hopefully someone here can assist. Okay so I have my rear jack and front jack with devices in them all the time (my front jack via modding is actually a rear jack. This way I can switch from speakers to headphones just by changing outputs at least on my sabertooth that's what I did. This board or driver or something isn't allowing me to do this I have 3 options 2 of which are digital and 1 is speakers well if I set it to speakers then my speakers and my headphones play the same thing at the same time. This seems rather stupid if its a hardware limitation on a 500 dollar motherboard when all the lesser boards I own even old dell systems can do this simple task.

Scratch that I had an option appear that wasn't there before I don't know what the heck but Its working now


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Thanks a lot. Changed all the settings and so far have 4.3ghz with negative offset of 50 still. I wonder which way i should go to try and get more of a overclock. Negative or positive offset. It is at 1.264v on load at 4.3ghz. Trying offset negative as low as i can go then will try positive to try and get 4.4ghz. Seems like my cpu is voltage hungry after 4.3ghz. It needs positive offset 20 which is 1.328V for 4.4ghz hardly seems worth it over 4.3ghz. unless i can get it up to 4.7ghz+ under 1.4V.


No problem, what cooling do you have? Is it just the 240 rad? You may need more than that. It does seem that your cpu maybe power hungry.
Another thing you can do is reduce the offset to the lowest possible for 4.2ghz. Once you find out that point were its stable go for 4.3 but do not increase the offset. This time increase Turbo Mv and see how this is different to offset. The cpu will take what it needs using Turbo Mv.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Shouldn't be. I go barely over that with max OC. Maybe if using a tiny air cooler.


something is not right....


----------



## Fidelitas

JPMboy: "what clock/voltage were you running to hit temps in the high50's? Hopefully that's not stock clocks."

I am at a mild over clock of 4.2 at 1.215 vcore Haven't tweaked it yet.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> No problem, what cooling do you have? Is it just the 240 rad? You may need more than that. It does seem that your cpu maybe power hungry.
> Another thing you can do is reduce the offset to the lowest possible for 4.2ghz. Once you find out that point were its stable go for 4.3 but do not increase the offset. This time increase Turbo Mv and see how this is different to offset. The cpu will take what it needs using Turbo Mv.


I have 360 and 24 radiator for GPUs and cpu


----------



## V3teran

Oh ok i dont say about your triple rad in your sig, only says 240.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShadowBroker*
> 
> I am not sure where you got that all the connections would be wrong. The computer (MB) is attached in port 1/4. I am not using WLAN with this MB, only cable connection.


Have you checked QoS settings? I had a similar issue in the past that effectively blocked all wireless and wired traffic because a single device was set to be the QoS king...

Have you tried to reset your router? That is usually my first step in resolving such issues...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Is the 5960X much cooler than SB-E and IVY-E (3930K/4930K/4960X)? Does it need less voltage for higher clocks too? 55C looks good at 4,2 Ghz in my eyes (if you are not running chiller).


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HCPC runs voltages like none other. Take his advice!


I kinda do eh LoooL









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidelitas*
> 
> HCPC has a cooling system like no other....lol. He is as close to LN2 as it gets. I went out and purchased a 5960X today. I am very impressed with how well this processor performs. Definitely makes the 5930k and 4960X look small in comparison. I cannot wait until my new RAM gets here and I can start playing around in the 3000 league.


Frothin dude........ Frothin


----------



## _REAPER_

HCPC how are things going? I just had my orders extended but should be in your part of the world at the beginning of next year. Looking forward to getting some OC training


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Have you checked QoS settings? I had a similar issue in the past that effectively blocked all wireless and wired traffic because a single device was set to be the QoS king...
> 
> Have you tried to reset your router? That is usually my first step in resolving such issues...


I let you down man sorry about that

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> HCPC how are things going? I just had my orders extended but should be in your part of the world at the beginning of next year. Looking forward to getting some OC training


Great guns ..... mind the pun LoooooL








No problem . You got posted to N.Q eh ?? Townsville ??
Your more than welcome dude


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Have you checked QoS settings? I had a similar issue in the past that effectively blocked all wireless and wired traffic because a single device was set to be the QoS king...
> 
> Have you tried to reset your router? That is usually my first step in resolving such issues...
> 
> 
> 
> I let you down man sorry about that
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> HCPC how are things going? I just had my orders extended but should be in your part of the world at the beginning of next year. Looking forward to getting some OC training
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Great guns ..... mind the pun LoooooL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No problem . You got posted to N.Q eh ?? Townsville ??
> Your more than welcome dude
Click to expand...

I will be spending some time in Sydney and Canberra


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I will be spending some time in Sydney and Canberra


Sounds about the right area to be during this summer.......... over the border from here it gets a little









Okay ive been working on a nice gaming , possible 24/7 o/c on this new 3930k http://valid.canardpc.com/ec529m and old faithfull RIVE . Wittled down vcore ( 1.26vc in bios I think ) and medium LLC and just gonna do a short prime for a hour or so while surfin and ill watch a telly show . You know a little bit of stuff to stress it alittle bit more without extra vcore


----------



## vulcan78

Hey guys, now that I am playing games with 3D Vision and am seeing nearly 100% load constant on both cards with commensurate 71-77 C peak temps primary and secondary GPU respectively, I am seriously considering a custom loop.

Right now I have my eye on EK's 64 mm radiator kit. Question is, will a single 64mm rad suffice for a pair of moderately overclocked 780 Ti's (1254 core/1900 memory, default voltage/vbios) and a 4930 @ 4.5 Ghz?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-x360.html

I intend to stick the rad in the front of my Air 540 and expel the heat with the existing 3x 120mm Noiseblocker B12-P's (push or pull out of the case?)

My rig for reference:






Thanks in advance.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Hey guys, now that I am playing games with 3D Vision and am seeing nearly 100% load constant on both cards with commensurate 71-77 C peak temps primary and secondary GPU respectively, I am seriously considering a custom loop.
> 
> Right now I have my eye on EK's 64 mm radiator kit. Question is, will a single 64mm rad suffice for a pair of moderately overclocked 780 Ti's (1254 core/1900 memory, default voltage/vbios) and a 4930 @ 4.5 Ghz?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-x360.html
> 
> I intend to stick the rad in the front of my Air 540 and expel the heat with the existing 3x 120mm Noiseblocker B12-P's (push or pull out of the case?)
> 
> My rig for reference:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.


No one rad wont keep up with cpu and 2 780ti's o/ced . 2 360 / 420 rads and a good pump res , say 1200ltr p/h . Even better if you run twin loops . Push pull thru front .


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> No one rad wont keep up with cpu and 2 780ti's o/ced . 2 360 / 420 rads and a good pump res , say 1200ltr p/h . Even better if you run twin loops . Push pull thru front .


First, thanks for the input! Now I thought 120mm of radiator area was sufficient per component? This is the higher performing 64mm diameter radiator too by the way:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-x360.html


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> First, thanks for the input! Now I thought 120mm of radiator area was sufficient per component? This is the higher performing 64mm diameter radiator too by the way:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-x360.html


The thicker / wider the rad the more surface area . You know you can set up another 360 outside the case or on the back


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> The thicker / wider the rad the more surface area . You know you can set up another 360 outside the case or on the back


Yeah I think I might end up going that route as I don't want a radiator both in the front and ceiling of my case (Air 540). Only issue now is that Maxwell has arrived and 980 Ti, presumably on 22nM process, should be out in 2-3 years time; plopping down $300 in water-block's might not be very prudent.

Even with the clocks at 1100 core/1254 boost/1900 memory the temps are still are only in the low-to-mid 70's (primary, secondary in mid-to-high 60's) in most games except Metro: LL and Crysis 3 in either 120 FPS or 3DVision (90+% load nearly constant) which even then have yet to get the primary above 77 C. Sure, that's warm, but not higher than these cards see on reference coolers and reference cards have shown a life-span well beyond 3-5 years.

The point, I'll probably be upgrading to 980 Ti SLI in 3-5 years time when there actually a 40-50% increase performance-wise over top-tier Kepler and the sole motivation for a custom cooling loop is that I don't like to see my 780 Ti's sitting at 70 C sustained.

I will probably go with the single 360 radiator kit at that point along with upgrading to 980 Ti SLI. I will do it right this time, pick up reference variants which will be cheaper to begin with and I won't be needing the better performing non-reference coolers anyway as they will be going under water.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> First, thanks for the input! Now I thought 120mm of radiator area was sufficient per component? This is the higher performing 64mm diameter radiator too by the way:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-x360.html
> 
> 
> 
> The thicker / wider the rad the more surface area . You know you can set up another 360 outside the case or on the back
Click to expand...

Go big or go home, the more rad space you have the more room to OC you will have.. My rad space equals 2 120mm per component so I have some overhead to OC


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Go big or go home, the more rad space you have the more room to OC you will have.. My rad space equals 2 120mm per component so I have some overhead to OC


Very nice, but at what point do you begin to reach diminishing returns with rad surface area? Is there a radiator surface area vs. component wattage calculator?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Go big or go home, the more rad space you have the more room to OC you will have.. My rad space equals 2 120mm per component so I have some overhead to OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice, but at what point do you begin to reach diminishing returns with rad surface area? Is there a radiator surface area vs. component wattage calculator?
Click to expand...

http://martinsliquidlab.org/


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

It spilled out of my case and it turned into this .......

Twin chill / loop deskputer









and found a new use for C2D 775 chips I have laying around........

Rad chock chips


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Sounds about the right area to be during this summer.......... over the border from here it gets a little
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay ive been working on a nice gaming , possible 24/7 o/c on this new 3930k http://valid.canardpc.com/ec529m and old faithfull RIVE . Wittled down vcore ( 1.26vc in bios I think ) and medium LLC and just gonna do a short prime for a hour or so while surfin and ill watch a telly show . You know a little bit of stuff to stress it alittle bit more without extra vcore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn I wish open hardware monitor would work on the r4be and/or r5e !!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Damn I wish open hardware monitor would work on the r4be and/or r5e !!


I / We have complained about that before








All the more reason to see if 4960x works on this 4102 bios on RIVE or go the 4901 that's on the other chip


----------



## sam66er

List my name pls .....Ty


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> First, thanks for the input! Now I thought 120mm of radiator area was sufficient per component? This is the higher performing 64mm diameter radiator too by the way:
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-x360.html
> 
> 
> 
> The thicker / wider the rad the more surface area . You know you can set up another 360 outside the case or on the back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Go big or go home, the more rad space you have the more room to OC you will have.. My rad space equals 2 120mm per component so I have some overhead to OC
Click to expand...

yup my 3930k/290x quadfire has 480xeach component
my 8350/7970quadfire has at least 360xeach component


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Go big or go home, the more rad space you have the more room to OC you will have.. My rad space equals 2 120mm per component so I have some overhead to OC


Man , I really dig how you've got all that in there eh


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yup my 3930k/290x quadfire has 480xeach component
> my 8350/7970quadfire has at least 360xeach component


Damn! That's not overkill?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Man , I really dig how you've got all that in there eh


Yeah that's a very good job there.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Go big or go home, the more rad space you have the more room to OC you will have.. My rad space equals 2 120mm per component so I have some overhead to OC

Nice system clean build







Really like the color combination not over done.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Go big or go home, the more rad space you have the more room to OC you will have.. My rad space equals 2 120mm per component so I have some overhead to OC
> 
> Nice system clean build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really like the color combination not over done.


Just press " QUOTE " on the post you want to answer and then hit reply .
or if you want to answer more than one post hit " MULTI " on each post first then hit reply on the bottom . That should help ya








And yeah don't forget to hit the submit button


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Go big or go home, the more rad space you have the more room to OC you will have.. My rad space equals 2 120mm per component so I have some overhead to OC
> 
> Nice system clean build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really like the color combination not over done.


So I guess my loop isn't too bad then? I'm running 3x ut60 480's, Monsta 360, Monsta 240 and a XSPC RX 240 for a 3930k and 780ti.


----------



## kzinti1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> post bios screen shots like described in th eabove post. (did you disable cpu and pcie spreadspectrum? if not you should)


Here's what you asked for:

OCNBIOS.zip 38k .zip file


Now this computer crashes often. Like the power cord was yanked out of the wall socket.
It doesn't matter what I'm doing, like opening a file, during a game, when I log into or out of Google, it just crashes at no certain time for no apparent reason.
When it crashes it can't be restarted until I unplug the power cable.
Then it starts, immediately shuts down, and then starts up completely.
I've run an antivirus deep scan.
Run MemTest overnight.
I don't know what to do now, except to ask for help.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Go big or go home, the more rad space you have the more room to OC you will have.. My rad space equals 2 120mm per component so I have some overhead to OC


Gorgeous, I also have a 900d have you tried putting a monster in front I'm going to try








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yup my 3930k/290x quadfire has 480xeach component
> my 8350/7970quadfire has at least 360xeach component


Wait Wait Wait your saying 5 480mm rads I assume in the TH10. Are they all internal or is there externals as well I have to see this. I have only seen 1 person with that many rads ever and it was in the really really big case labs case.

Seen the amd build log but you no update we need updates man.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Go big or go home, the more rad space you have the more room to OC you will have.. My rad space equals 2 120mm per component so I have some overhead to OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gorgeous, I also have a 900d have you tried putting a monster in front I'm going to try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yup my 3930k/290x quadfire has 480xeach component
> my 8350/7970quadfire has at least 360xeach component
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wait Wait Wait your saying 5 480mm rads I assume in the TH10. Are they all internal or is there externals as well I have to see this. I have only seen 1 person with that many rads ever and it was in the really really big case labs case.
> 
> Seen the amd build log but you no update we need updates man.
Click to expand...

I will probably try to put a 240 in the front as well


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Finally up and running again after several weeks of "downtime".

Got in the 4930K and booted up when I got the right settings in bios. Running 4,6 Ghz @ 1,296 vc CPU-Z with 2x MO-RA3 420 LT's with 9x 140 mm fans @ 900 rpm, will add another 9 (still laying in the unopened boxes). Low ambient temperature and my CPU is idling around 20C, load at around 50C. I guess temperatures will fall a bit more with 9 more fans. Using 2x EK-D5 X-Res 140 CSQ's with Swiftech MCP655's at "4".

Will push CPU further soon, but as of today, I am happy with it running.


----------



## dboythagr8

Just tried overclocking my 4930k for the first time yesterday (after having it for months







). I stared at 1.3v and 4.5 ghz. It failed Prime after about 2 hours. I dropped it down to 4.4 and let it run again for a few hours and it was ok. I noticed that even though I set my vcore at 1.3v, in CPU-Z it shows 1.32.

This morning I wanted to try 4.5ghz again so I set v core at 1.33. I checked CPU-Z and it was showing 1.36. Am I missing a setting some where that is making it add more voltage than what I am asking? Also what are "normal" temps for a 4930k OC? I am using a Corsair Air 540 with a H100i in push/pull (intake). When running at 4.4 my temps were at an average of 71c. Bumped up voltage and vcore to try and remain stable at 4.5 resulted in an avg temp of 74c-75c when I took a glance this morning before work.

Any thoughts?


----------



## Mega Man

what is your LLC at ? also to note software sensors are notoriously wrong


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Medium or regular I rekon there Mega bro


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what is your LLC at ? also to note software sensors are notoriously wrong


I don't recall adjusting that. I basically changed multiplier to 45, entered in my RAM speed, enabled PLL over voltage (?). It was quick and dirty. There's tons of settings in there that I'm sure may help.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Mega Man

Do not leave it on Auto.

I can't speak for the intel side. But on alot of amd boards it defaults to Extreme which on intels can cost you your chip iirc med is best with little to no vdrop/vboost


----------



## dboythagr8

Ok I'll take a look when I get home


----------



## dboythagr8

Wow...just had quite the experience. Feel like my board tried to self destruct.

I have my system set to 4.4ghz with 1.3v. I try and go to Tomb Raider to test my OC with my 3 Titan Blacks (stock). My system immediately crashes. That's odd...I have had it at 4.4 and did a few Heaven runs with no issues. I boot up again and try TR. Same thing. This time I try and reboot and it doesn't post. Mobo is displaying Q Code 14 which means "Pre-memory CPU initialization is started" according to the manual. Nothing is displayed on my screen. Each hard reset does the same thing. I can't switch BIOS' or anything. The only thing that fixed this was turning the switch off on the back of the machine and then trying again. As soon as it came up I immediately went into BIOS and returned to default settings. Now I'm sitting at just 4.2 via the OC panel. Went back and tried to access TR benchmark and it worked as normal. Maybe I'll just stay here. What a pain this has been.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Wow...just had quite the experience. Feel like my board tried to self destruct.
> 
> I have my system set to 4.4ghz with 1.3v. I try and go to Tomb Raider to test my OC with my 3 Titan Blacks (stock). My system immediately crashes. That's odd...I have had it at 4.4 and did a few Heaven runs with no issues. I boot up again and try TR. Same thing. This time I try and reboot and it doesn't post. Mobo is displaying Q Code 14 which means "Pre-memory CPU initialization is started" according to the manual. Nothing is displayed on my screen. Each hard reset does the same thing. I can't switch BIOS' or anything. The only thing that fixed this was turning the switch off on the back of the machine and then trying again. As soon as it came up I immediately went into BIOS and returned to default settings. Now I'm sitting at just 4.2 via the OC panel. Went back and tried to access TR benchmark and it worked as normal. Maybe I'll just stay here. What a pain this has been.


Sounds like moar vcore to me


----------



## tatmMRKIV

what do I do to sign up? I am feeling out my 3332B047 chip





what are some good voltages to try for?
specifically vccsa pll and vtt
this is a very good chip on LN2, unfortunately it's never been on anything else before I owned it....


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Just tried overclocking my 4930k for the first time yesterday (after having it for months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I stared at 1.3v and 4.5 ghz. It failed Prime after about 2 hours. I dropped it down to 4.4 and let it run again for a few hours and it was ok. I noticed that even though I set my vcore at 1.3v, in CPU-Z it shows 1.32.
> 
> This morning I wanted to try 4.5ghz again so I set v core at 1.33. I checked CPU-Z and it was showing 1.36. Am I missing a setting some where that is making it add more voltage than what I am asking? Also what are "normal" temps for a 4930k OC? I am using a Corsair Air 540 with a H100i in push/pull (intake). When running at 4.4 my temps were at an average of 71c. Bumped up voltage and vcore to try and remain stable at 4.5 resulted in an avg temp of 74c-75c when I took a glance this morning before work.
> 
> Any thoughts?


That would be LLC, if you leave it on "auto" it has a tendency to go to "Very High" or "Extreme". Best to set it to no more than high. I actually went out and picked up a digital multi-meter as I wanted to ascertain what kind of discrepancy there was between displayed voltage and what the mobo was actually seeing. There was actually a .1-.2 discrepancy.

Here's a must read article on LLC:

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/24019-load-line-calibration-why-overclockers-should-care/

I recommend running 1.4V with LLC on High and keeping your memory at 1600MHz or so while you try to figure out what your chip is capable of. You will eventually find that a certain frequency requires seemingly exponentially more voltage, for my chip going from 4.5Ghz to 4.6Ghz requires going from 1.394V to 1.43-1.44V or so. It's luck of the draw really, but most 4930's are capable of 4.5Ghz at or under 1.4V. If you want peace of mind pick up a cheap digital multi-meter for $30 or so, RIVBE has contacts on the board expressly for measuring actual voltage, whereas older boards you had to find a contact point on the back of the mobo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> what do I do to sign up? I am feeling out my 3332B047 chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what are some good voltages to try for?
> specifically vccsa pll and vtt
> this is a very good chip on LN2, unfortunately it's never been on anything else before I owned it....


Here's what I have found helps the most with stability:

BIOSSnapshotsOC.net.zip 1752k .zip file


Pay no mind to the 1.410 vcore setting, right now its at 1.365 and seems to vary as VCORE is on auto. "additional turbo voltage" is at .160V. What you want to do is find the maximum frequency you can attain at or under 1.4V and then put most of that on "additional turbo voltage". Ideally you also want to get "Offset Voltage" working so that youre not at say 1.3XX voltage 24/7, this can be a bit complicated and it took me a few weeks of owning my 4930 before figuring out what was preventing this from working correctly. Ultimately it ended up being Windows Power Management: under Processor Power Management, "Minimum Processor State" needs to be set to 0% on "Balanced" and 10% on "High Performance". With Offset Voltage you lose the ability to put your computer to sleep, so remember that as you'll get a BSOD instead. Also worth looking into is making power plan shortcuts on the desktop, setting up hotkeys to activate them, and then hiding the desktop, this makes it easy to switch between "balanced" and "high performance". For me Ctrl+alt+1 is High Performance and Ctrl+alt+2 is Balanced, infinitely easier than navigating multiple windows to change this as I change this quite often. No point in keeping poor old 4930 at 4.5Ghz whilst browsing the web or other pedestrian activities.

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/create-a-shortcut-or-hotkey-to-switch-power-plans/


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I would like to join. Pictures in rigbuilder


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Currently trying to get stable 4,9 Ghz for the 4930K, it is supposed to be stable-ish at 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38 volts. I am at 1,375 vc in bios and 1,376-1,392 vc CPU-Z in P95 Blend. I got BSOD 101 on 1,365 vc bios (when loading desktop on W7), 1,370 vc and 1,375 vc gives Fatal Error on one of the cores after 10-20 seconds, Running RAM at 1866 Mhz @ 1,5 v (stock).

Max temperature seen at 4,9 Ghz @ 1,375 vc bios is 60C on two cores, the rest of the cores is mid 50's.

LLC: High and 180%.
49x100 @ 1,375 vc

Which settings should I look at aside from vcore voltage?


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Mabye it helps :

http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/9680#post_22768324
http://www.overclock.net/t/1151946/official-asus-rog-rampage-iv-x79-owners-club/9360#post_22763652


----------



## theGrimreaper

If my business to business contact at Tiger comes thru, I'll have my GPUs and SSDs next week. The 4930 and RAM are coming from my friend in Texas, we ordered that from the Egg as well.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Mabye it helps :
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/9680#post_22768324
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1151946/official-asus-rog-rampage-iv-x79-owners-club/9360#post_22763652


I think I have most of those settings right, I will keep trying to tweak the voltage a bit more on vcore to see if I get it stable.

Running 4,7 Ghz @ 1,312 vc now and having a great time, but I will still try to work on the 4,9 Ghz overclock on this chip.

Over to something else, my Crucial RAM is running just fine @ 1866 Mhz (9-9-9-27-2) mode 3 and nearer. Turned it up to 10-10-10-27-2 and 1,65 volts with 2133 Mhz and the same vcore voltage and it gives me fatal error in P95 Blend pretty fast. 1,6 volts gave 11 errors, 1,62 volts gave 7 and 1,65 volts gave only 1 error, so is it safe to push it further than 1,65 volts?

I am thinking of getting 4x4GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400 Mhz CL9 used for a good price, because of the sticks I have seems not very good ... they may be stable at 2133 Mhz with more tweaking though.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

I don't really think that you can achieve 4.9GHz under 1.4V the next pump is to high.
4.8Ghz under 1.4V is realistic.

Are you stress testing with Prime 95 ?

My personal rule is 0.05V Vcore per next 100 MHz CPU clock step.
I´ll never go over it !

Load the X.M.P profile and let the memory alone don't touch it.
First find the stable CPU clock then the memory clock.
And then get all the voltages down and at last tightening the timings.

That's my strategie.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> I don't really think that you can achieve 4.9GHz under 1.4V the next pump is to high.
> 4.8Ghz under 1.4V is realistic.
> 
> Are you stress testing with Prime 95 ?
> 
> My personal rule is 0.05V Vcore per next 100 MHz CPU clock step.
> I´ll never go over it !
> 
> Load the X.M.P profile and let the memory alone don't touch it.
> First find the stable CPU clock then the memory clock.
> And then get all the voltages down and at last tightening the timings.
> 
> That's my strategie.


4,8 Ghz @ 1,34 vcore stable P95 Blend.
4,9 Ghz @ 1,375 vcore (working 0.005 volts up on vcore at these voltages)


----------



## Kimir

Prime95 27.9 or 28.5?
For memory, try to play with vccsa.


----------



## swddeluxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 4,8 Ghz @ 1,34 vcore stable P95 Blend.
> 4,9 Ghz @ 1,375 vcore (working 0.005 volts up on vcore at these voltages)


Realy?,
can you post your BIOS settings(or BIOS Screens)


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Prime95 27.9 or 28.5?
> For memory, try to play with vccsa.


I have P95 28.4.
I will try to play a little with vccsa, vccsa is at 1,12 I think.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swddeluxx*
> 
> Realy?,
> can you post your BIOS settings(or BIOS Screens)


I have to find my usb-stick first, but my settings suits my chip, your chip will probably not do it at those voltages.


----------



## NEOAethyr

Trying to listen to some music this morning, having that audio prob again where it preamp's everything to heck.
Tried everything other then powering off or re-installing the driver (the latter is what fixed it last time).
It sounds like a slurred distorted mess







.

I didn't buy the board for it's audio, but it certainly miss having decent audio, I gotta say the cheap via audio chip on my last board was better then this.
I would build an audio rig and go digital just for this, to bypass the crap audio on this board but it uses fiber and not the coax I'm accustomed to.

It's pretty darned embarrassing too when someone comes over to watch a movie and the audio is acting up.
Damn, I just tried disabling the chip and everything.
I wonder if I can reinstall it without restarting..., umm nope, gotta wait 3hrs now, what the heck, maybe a manual install.

Manual install got it working again but it still is messed up.
Looks like I have to wait it out to try the realtek ver instead of the asus one.

Edit:
Finally...
Had to unplug my audio cable completely.
The the stupid audio jack detection gave me probs, after messing with it a bit the audio came back and the distortion is gone, yay.
Now I just gotta figure out how to disable that jack detection crap.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have P95 28.4.
> I will try to play a little with vccsa, vccsa is at 1,12 I think.
> I have to find my usb-stick first, *but my settings suits my chip, your chip will probably not do it at those voltages*.


----------



## theGrimreaper

Got my board this morning but not entirely sure how to upload a pic of it, never had to upload photo's before.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theGrimreaper*
> 
> Got my board this morning but not entirely sure how to upload a pic of it, never had to upload photo's before.


Click the 'pencil' button







in the bottom left of your post to edit it.

Click the 'image' button







along the top of your post window in edit mode to bring up a popup window with options to embed a photo either from a saved image file on your computer or from a url link to an image host.

EDIT: And congratulations!


----------



## swddeluxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have to find my usb-stick first, but my settings suits my chip, your chip will probably not do it at those voltages.


No Problem my Frind









I have more Cpu`s(Chips) and 4 Motherboards

here is one of there

4500idle.jpg 463k .jpg file


have you found your USB stick now ?


----------



## electro2u

Wow. Coming from a succession of 1150 chips this is really a breath of fresh air.
Loving the board and loving the solder TIM on this 4820k.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swddeluxx*
> 
> No Problem my Frind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have more Cpu`s(Chips) and 4 Motherboards
> 
> here is one of there
> 
> 4500idle.jpg 463k .jpg file
> 
> 
> have you found your USB stick now ?


Here you go. This is my daily 24/7 clock @ 4,7 Ghz (that was the clock my quadfire started acting like quadfire, so it will be there for a while I think). On the other note, I am working on both 4,8 Ghz and 4,9 Ghz, 4,8 Ghz is 1,34 volts stable, but I am working my way from 1,32 volts and upwards. 1,325 volts managed 6 minutes of P95 Blend before it BSOD'ed so I guess 1,33 volts will be fine.







4,9 Ghz on the other hand keeps BSODing on me with 1,395 volts ... and I keep banging my head against the wall .... New RAM is ordered so I hope to get some nice speeds out of that set.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Here you go. This is my daily 24/7 clock @ 4,7 Ghz (that was the clock my quadfire started acting like quadfire, so it will be there for a while I think). On the other note, I am working on both 4,8 Ghz and 4,9 Ghz, 4,8 Ghz is 1,34 volts stable, but I am working my way from 1,32 volts and upwards. 1,325 volts managed 6 minutes of P95 Blend before it BSOD'ed so I guess 1,33 volts will be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4,9 Ghz on the other hand keeps BSODing on me with 1,395 volts ... and I keep banging my head against the wall .... New RAM is ordered so I hope to get some nice speeds out of that set.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


couple of suggestions, for what they're worth:

strap = 100 (not auto)
CPU PLL = 1.825 to 1.850
*CPU voltage freq = 500*
VSCCA LLC = auto
All DRAM current to 120%
DRAM Phase = Optimized

if you are having trouble at 4.9, switch to 125 strap and try 39x125 (=4.875) until you know the thermal properties better. Ram at 2333 or lower if your ram is not up to it, and ~ 1.376V bios vcore LLC high. (and I would not run p95 for stability. Get AID64 or something else that's more than a heat generator). p95 BSOD is nort good. A worker stopping is what it should do. What bsod? 124?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> couple of suggestions, for what they're worth:
> 
> strap = 100 (not auto)
> CPU PLL = 1.825 to 1.850
> *CPU voltage freq = 500*
> VSCCA LLC = auto
> All DRAM current to 120%
> DRAM Phase = Optimized
> 
> if you are having trouble at 4.9, switch to 125 strap and try 39x125 (=4.875) until you know the thermal properties better. Ram at 2333 or lower if your ram is not up to it, and ~ 1.376V bios vcore LLC high. (and I would not run p95 for stability. Get AID64 or something else that's more than a heat generator). p95 BSOD is nort good. A worker stopping is what it should do. What bsod? 124?


Okay, I will do the changes in bios.

I tried 125 strap, but I will work on it, did try 39x100 with 1,36 vc bios, will try some more with the settings you suggested. I will download AID64 and use that instead of P95, how long should I run it for stability?

@ 4,9 Ghz I got worker(s) stopping on me on 1.365vc, 1.370vc, 1.375vc, 1.380vc then it started to BSOD 124 on 1.385vc, 1.390vc and 1.395vc during P95 Blend 28.5.
@ 4,8 Ghz I got BSOD 124 on 1.32vc, 1.325vc and I have left to try 1.33vc and 1.335vc. Stable @ P95 Blend with 1.34vc.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, I will do the changes in bios.
> 
> I tried 125 strap, but I will work on it, did try 39x100 with 1,36 vc bios, will try some more with the settings you suggested. I will download AID64 and use that instead of P95, how long should I run it for stability?
> 
> @ 4,9 Ghz I got worker(s) stopping on me on 1.365vc, 1.370vc, 1.375vc, 1.380vc then it started to BSOD 124 on 1.385vc, 1.390vc and 1.395vc during P95 Blend 28.5.
> @ 4,8 Ghz I got BSOD 124 on 1.32vc, 1.325vc and I have left to try 1.33vc and 1.335vc. Stable @ P95 Blend with 1.34vc.


try [email protected] vcore with cpu frequency @ 500. 125x39 should work easy at 1.376V. You really need to make sure your ram is not causing those 124 bsods.
Figure 10mV per 100MHz per core as a "rule of thumb". so 4.7 to 4.8 on a 4930K ~ +60mV. on 125 strap each multiplier increase ~ + 75mV

oh and note this correction: Get AID64 or something else that's more *less of* than a heat generator.

AID64 actually tsts more of the cpu architecture, albiet a bit slower. 1-2 hours should be enough and set up the monitoring so you can check temps (turn off all other things pointing at the temp sensors), voltages and clocks.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










windows Memtest or Memtest Pro is a great way to test your ram settings independently, only loads the cpu ~50%


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> try [email protected] vcore with cpu frequency @ 500. 125x39 should work easy at 1.376V. You really need to make sure your ram is not causing those 124 bsods.
> Figure 10mV per 100MHz per core as a "rule of thumb". so 4.7 to 4.8 on a 4930K ~ +60mV. on 125 strap each multiplier increase ~ + 75mV
> 
> oh and note this correction: Get AID64 or something else that's more *less of* than a heat generator.
> 
> AID64 actually tsts more of the cpu architecture, albiet a bit slower. 1-2 hours should be enough and set up the monitoring so you can check temps (turn off all other things pointing at the temp sensors), voltages and clocks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> windows Memtest or Memtest Pro is a great way to test your ram settings independently, only loads the cpu ~50%


I will try those CPU-Strap 125 settings later ... running AIDA64 stability test on CPU now @ 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38 vc bios. Done with 20 minutes now.

I have done maybe 10 rounds with Memtest on my memory on the RIVBE this far and have never seen any errors ... but "new" RAM coming next week so I guess I will find out then.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I will try those CPU-Strap 125 settings later ... running AIDA64 stability test on CPU now @ 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38 vc bios. Done with 20 minutes now.
> 
> I have done maybe 10 rounds with Memtest on my memory on the RIVBE this far and have never seen any errors ... but "new" RAM coming next week so I guess I will find out then.


using the os-based memtest or the bootable DOS version?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> using the os-based memtest or the bootable DOS version?


Using the os-based ... where do I find the bootable DOS version? I can do those test after the CPU is done with AIDA64. Any by the way, where can I buy AIDA64?

Hitting 69C on #1 and 70C #2 in AIDA64 ... that is the highest for my comfort-zone. Average mid 60's though. 35 minutes in. My radiators do not even get tepid with this wattage usage.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Using the os-based ... where do I find the bootable DOS version? I can do those test after the CPU is done with AIDA64. Any by the way, where can I buy AIDA64?


no need to use the dos version. only need that for a new build before the OS is installed. google Memtest86+


----------



## Tomo VK

Hi, i have got a problem with my new rivbe and ram, b1 slot is abnormal, when i test slots c1 d1 with 2 stick, all of them work. How can i use a2 b2 c2 d2 slots on rivbe? I tryed and no boot. Please help


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> no need to use the dos version. only need that for a new build before the OS is installed. google Memtest86+


Is this alright, Master?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomo VK*
> 
> Hi, i have got a problem with my new rivbe and ram, b1 slot is abnormal, when i test slots c1 d1 with 2 stick, all of them work. How can i use a2 b2 c2 d2 slots on rivbe? I tryed and no boot. Please help


RMA the board.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Is this alright, Master?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looool.. looks good grasshopper!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol I am just winding down voltages.. I keep putting in lower voltages and it keeps on running in aida

for mem testing hyper pi or 32m should be more than sufficient


----------



## dboythagr8

I'm starting to wonder if I got a bad RIVBE board. I have posted in this thread off and on since I bought the board a few months ago. When I first set everything up, I was having memory issues. After taking them out and reinserting a few times it finally posted.

Shortly after that I installed 3 GTX Titan Blacks. I have not been able to get them to perform to the level they should. I had numerous freezes and hangs, terrible performance, and just overall a bad experience. I ended up RMAing the card I thought was the problem. I have been running 2 way SLI and did not have the same issues I did with 3-way. I get my card back from EVGA and immediately I start getting hangs and crashes again. The chances of me having two bad cards from EVGA is slim and so I am thinking it is something else. Before I sent this card in I did numerous re-installs of drivers. I went through one W8.1 reformat. Nothing.

Then a few days ago while doing some streaming to my Twitch channel, I got hit with 2 BSODS. They message given was "Memory_Management". I ran some memory diagnostic tests when it booted back up and everything checked out. I tried playing BF4 earlier and it locked up each time. A couple of occasions it was a screen hang with no message and I had to reset the box. One time it went to BSOD and gave me a "DPC_WatchDog_Violation". I have never seen that error before.

I dunno. These issues combined with some overclocking problems I posted about on the last page have me leaning towards RMAing the board. I bought this from Microcenter and purchased the 2 year coverage warranty with it, but a look at their site does not return a result for this board. It's not a 2011 thing either because they still carry them in their stores. Not sure how they'll handle it if I take it in. This board was $500 and as such I expect that amount to be covered under the warranty I purchased.

What are your guys thoughts? I'm pretty down on this. I haven't been able to enjoy my rig since I got it. I had a 2600k system before this with all kinds of GPU configurations and Windows installations and never had this many problems.


----------



## electro2u

@dboythagr8
Sounds like your overclock isn't stable anymore once you add the third GPU. Have you tried running you CPU at stock speed with the tri SLI setup?
Watchdog violation is super common for unstable overclock. It could actually be a bad CPU.

Are you using the additional 4 pin molex power connector at the bottom of the board? It's for extra power to the PCIE lanes


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> snip*


Up VCCSA and VTT a tad along with dram voltage. Make sure to use the additional pci-E power plug at the bottom of the board like electro2u mentioned.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> @dboythagr8
> Sounds like your overclock isn't stable anymore once you add the third GPU. Have you tried running you CPU at stock speed with the tri SLI setup?
> Watchdog violation is super common for unstable overclock. It could actually be a bad CPU.
> 
> Are you using the additional 4 pin molex power connector at the bottom of the board? It's for extra power to the PCIE lanes


I haven't had my CPU overclock since I had issues a few days ago. I went back to all default settings in BIOS. When these lock ups are happening the CPU is at stock and so are the GPU clocks. I am using the additional 4-pin molex as well.

It has to be something hardware related I'm just running out of ideas to test.


----------



## electro2u

I know it sounds slightly ******ed but I read a newegg review that said they kept getting watchdog violations *At Stock* with a 4960x iirc and rma the chip solved the problem. Easy to rma the board too though, ASUS and Intel will both cross ship. I think I'd start with the chip just to knock out a variable. It's unlikely to be the PCIE slot IMO.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I know it sounds slightly ******ed but I read a newegg review that said they kept getting watchdog violations *At Stock* with a 4960x iirc and rma the chip solved the problem. Easy to rma the board too though, ASUS and Intel will both cross ship. I think I'd start with the chip just to knock out a variable. It's unlikely to be the PCIE slot IMO.


Well I bought the board from Microcenter and have 2 year replacement coverage and so I need to go through them first. They don't stock this board anymore though so I'm not sure what they'll do to give me equal value.

My symptoms sound like it could be CPU related rather than something with the board itself? Why would I not run into these issues then when I run 2 way SLI vs 3 way SLI?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Well I bought the board from Microcenter and have 2 year replacement coverage and so I need to go through them first. They don't stock this board anymore though so I'm not sure what they'll do to give me equal value.
> 
> My symptoms sound like it could be CPU related rather than something with the board itself? Why would I not run into these issues then when I run 2 way SLI vs 3 way SLI?


If it is even possible, I think because the PCIE lanes are directly connected to the CPU. I'm by no means an expert. But I remember reading that review and taking it down as a mental note, the guy was very convincing. Not a "dummy" review. I also remember he was using a lot of video cards, either 3 or 4.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Well I bought the board from Microcenter and have 2 year replacement coverage and so I need to go through them first. They don't stock this board anymore though so I'm not sure what they'll do to give me equal value.
> 
> My symptoms sound like it could be CPU related rather than something with the board itself? Why would I not run into these issues then when I run 2 way SLI vs 3 way SLI?


It sound a lot like the problems I had for my quadfire setup. In BF4 it laged and I got crazy poor FPS with four cards and my CPU @ 4,6 Ghz, but @ 4,7 Ghz it was no problem at all. Maybe it is the same way for you, only the switch from two to three cards. Could be it, but if there is something wrong with you motherboard I do not know.

I have RMAed one RIVBE already which did not want to boot, it crashed during W7-install every time. Next board I got booted up the first time and to date I have had no problems with it.


----------



## Holynacho

Does anyone else have a problem with their board not booting after being unplugged for a decent amount of time. Here's my problem, every time I unplug the computer and let it sit, it cycle boots. But the thing is after letting it sit plugged in, not pressing power, it'll boot either by itself fine, or I'll boot it after letting it sit. This has happened 4 times now, first built, first cleaning, I moved, and today I cleaned it again. Each time it wouldn't boot, but letting it sit would resolve the problem. Should I RMA the board?


----------



## falb0ner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Holynacho*
> 
> Does anyone else have a problem with their board not booting after being unplugged for a decent amount of time. Here's my problem, every time I unplug the computer and let it sit, it cycle boots. But the thing is after letting it sit plugged in, not pressing power, it'll boot either by itself fine, or I'll boot it after letting it sit. This has happened 4 times now, first built, first cleaning, I moved, and today I cleaned it again. Each time it wouldn't boot, but letting it sit would resolve the problem. Should I RMA the board?


Sounds like the BIOS battery may be bad. Maybe try replacing the battery before the RMA hassle? That or even email ASUS for suggestions? Also are you on the newest BIOS version?


----------



## Holynacho

I did replace the bios battery the first time this happened and it still did it, but that was quite awhile ago and I have not tested it again, but I'm on the computer now after letting it sit for about a half hour. It's not a huge problem, just annoying. And like I said it's only happens when unplugged, which rarely happens, so it'll happen again when the Maxwell Titans or 980 ti classifieds come out


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Holynacho*
> 
> Does anyone else have a problem with their board not booting after being unplugged for a decent amount of time. Here's my problem, every time I unplug the computer and let it sit, it cycle boots. But the thing is after letting it sit plugged in, not pressing power, it'll boot either by itself fine, or I'll boot it after letting it sit. This has happened 4 times now, first built, first cleaning, I moved, and today I cleaned it again. Each time it wouldn't boot, but letting it sit would resolve the problem. Should I RMA the board?


I'm not exactly sure what you are saying is happening, but it sounds a bit like something mentioned previously in this forum which was explained by @[email protected] as something that was normal for the RIVBE after having the power turned off to it. I couldn't find that post, but here's one I did manage to dig up that mentions it ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Speaking of psus, when I switch the power off on my g2 1300 from the back, on the next boot it turns on, then off in a second, then turns on again and works fine. Is this normal?
> 
> 
> 
> normal. Raja explained this cycling as Training.. also said that it can be as stressful on the hardware as some stress tests!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A/C power cycles are not what I always thought...
Click to expand...


----------



## Holynacho

Same thing, the system will turn on, then off in a second, but do this continuously without ever booting, but if I turn the power on to the PSU, but don't hit the power button on the system and let it sit, it boots first time. Found this while investigating:
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2017989/asus-rampage-extreme-wont-power.html

Further down the page they explain the same problem, but no explanation or if they RMA'd their boards.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> @dboythagr8
> Sounds like your overclock isn't stable anymore once you add the third GPU. Have you tried running you CPU at stock speed with the tri SLI setup?
> Watchdog violation is super common for unstable overclock. It could actually be a bad CPU.
> 
> *Are you using the additional 4 pin molex power connector at the bottom of the board? It's for extra power to the PCIE lanes*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Up VCCSA and VTT a tad along with dram voltage. *Make sure to use the additional pci-E power plug at the bottom of the board like electro2u mentioned.*
Click to expand...









OMG I forgot all about that . You guys just helped me out with a gpu issue


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Holynacho*
> 
> Same thing, the system will turn on, then off in a second, but do this continuously without ever booting, but if I turn the power on to the PSU, but don't hit the power button on the system and let it sit, it boots first time. Found this while investigating:
> http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2017989/asus-rampage-extreme-wont-power.html
> 
> Further down the page they explain the same problem, but no explanation or if they RMA'd their boards.


I have the same issue with my RIVE and R4F . Turned out it was a ambient temp boot bug . Put the board in the sun for 30 mins ........ and away she goes .... true story


----------



## tatmMRKIV

That cycling is the memory training. Either up system analog, manually entire memory timings, enter looser timings. Is what i would do. Lol do none of you guys read the manuals? I skimmed it for features and that was one of them.
Its testing different ram timings and seeing what works though(thats the stress testing)

That power off thing. I just thought it was something like power wasnt fully primed. Actually i think it had to do with psu but im probably wrong on that one

My rive and rivbe do that thing where i have to press the power button twice after i unplug it. My asrock z87m ocf does as well i think

But it boots after i hit it a second time
I am probably talking abot something else huh?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I think I might be as well . :-- > LooooL
I would get power to board , hit the pwr button no response till I put it in the sun ......


----------



## Holynacho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> That cycling is the memory training. Either up system analog, manually entire memory timings, enter looser timings. Is what i would do. Lol do none of you guys read the manuals? I skimmed it for features and that was one of them.
> Its testing different ram timings and seeing what works though(thats the stress testing)
> 
> That power off thing. I just thought it was something like power wasnt fully primed. Actually i think it had to do with psu but im probably wrong on that one
> 
> My rive and rivbe do that thing where i have to press the power button twice after i unplug it. My asrock z87m ocf does as well i think
> 
> But it boots after i hit it a second time
> I am probably talking abot something else huh?


Are you talking changing the memery settings in bio's with the DRAM setings, the system doesn't make it to bios, literally on off, pause, on off. continously, not on for a few seconds then off, then boots like when the CMOS is reset, an instant on/off, is that memory training?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

No. Thats probably not the mem training. Mem training if i recall correctly did 30second cycles.

if it wont make it to bios then you got a bad setting somewhere on bios.


----------



## Holynacho

Hmm, well like I said it works now, I'll play with it some more. It's more of a curiosity at this point. Thanks for the input!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Holynacho*
> 
> Are you talking changing the memery settings in bio's with the DRAM setings, the system doesn't make it to bios, literally on off, pause, on off. continously, not on for a few seconds then off, then boots like when the CMOS is reset, an instant on/off, is that memory training?


I'm using G.Skill 2400 TridentX modules and my RIVBE does the super fast on off after full power off to my. and in fact, I've used these sticks in a bunch of ASUS 1150 boards and they all do that once overclocked.

Have you tried the rampage tweak setting in dram timing section of the bios? Maybe mode 1 or 2 if you are using auto. Mode 3 have me blue screens with my 4820k so I leave it on auto.
The part about it not fully booting back up is a little puzzling, but I wouldn't really worry about it personally unless something else was also going on like blue screens or instability in general. I suspect it does have to do with memory timings and training. Raja basically told me not to worry about these on/off things when the board has had its mains disconnected and the lights went out.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OMG I forgot all about that . You guys just helped me out with a gpu issue


But....I'm using it and still having issues


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> But....I'm using it and still having issues


Try another sli bridge and/or go native pci-E psu cables if using extensions.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Try another sli bridge and/or go native pci-E psu cables if using extensions.


Done all of that already.

Either a mobo or PSU issue...I called EVGA and told them the specs of my system and they thought it was hitting the limit of my 1300w PSU when using 3 cards...but I dunno about that...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> But....I'm using it and still having issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Done all of that already.
> 
> Either a mobo or PSU issue...I called EVGA and told them the specs of my system and they thought it was hitting the limit of my 1300w PSU when using 3 cards...but I dunno about that...
Click to expand...

Straight up , you need to run 2 psu's at least 2 1500w in line to effectively run 3 titans overclocked . These things pull more juice than 1 psu will give it . And then you have the heat to get rid of too . So until you do it aint gonna happen .


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I'm starting to wonder if I got a bad RIVBE board. I have posted in this thread off and on since I bought the board a few months ago. When I first set everything up, I was having memory issues. After taking them out and reinserting a few times it finally posted.
> 
> Shortly after that I installed 3 GTX Titan Blacks. I have not been able to get them to perform to the level they should. I had numerous freezes and hangs, terrible performance, and just overall a bad experience. I ended up RMAing the card I thought was the problem. I have been running 2 way SLI and did not have the same issues I did with 3-way. I get my card back from EVGA and immediately I start getting hangs and crashes again. The chances of me having two bad cards from EVGA is slim and so I am thinking it is something else. Before I sent this card in I did numerous re-installs of drivers. I went through one W8.1 reformat. Nothing.
> 
> Then a few days ago while doing some streaming to my Twitch channel, I got hit with 2 BSODS. They message given was "Memory_Management". I ran some memory diagnostic tests when it booted back up and everything checked out. I tried playing BF4 earlier and it locked up each time. A couple of occasions it was a screen hang with no message and I had to reset the box. One time it went to BSOD and gave me a "DPC_WatchDog_Violation". I have never seen that error before.
> 
> I dunno. These issues combined with some overclocking problems I posted about on the last page have me leaning towards RMAing the board. I bought this from Microcenter and purchased the 2 year coverage warranty with it, but a look at their site does not return a result for this board. It's not a 2011 thing either because they still carry them in their stores. Not sure how they'll handle it if I take it in. This board was $500 and as such I expect that amount to be covered under the warranty I purchased.
> 
> What are your guys thoughts? I'm pretty down on this. I haven't been able to enjoy my rig since I got it. I had a 2600k system before this with all kinds of GPU configurations and Windows installations and never had this many problems.


Hey check out this video Jayz2cents had a similar problem when he went tri sli. I would most def try everything stock


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Straight up , you need to run 2 psu's at least 2 1500w in line to effectively run 3 titans overclocked . These things pull more juice than 1 psu will give it . And then you have the heat to get rid of too . So until you do it aint gonna happen .


3000w of power to run 3 titans and a 6 core proc what
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Hey check out this video Jayz2cents had a similar problem when he went tri sli. I would most def try everything stock


did you mean to link the video?


----------



## dboythagr8

double post sorry


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> 3000w of power to run 3 titans and a 6 core proc what
> did you mean to link the video?







yes the link sorry


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes the link sorry


That would be Jayz most interesting video so far. Had to subscribe. Synthetic bottleneck created by overclocking ram and CPU in the wrong order.... Cmon jay what was the correct order? Was this code for evga gave him new motherboard?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> That would be Jayz most interesting video so far. Had to subscribe. Synthetic bottleneck created by overclocking ram and CPU in the wrong order.... Cmon jay what was the correct order? Was this code for evga gave him new motherboard?


Not sure, just thought that you might want to see a similar problem that another was having.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> That would be Jayz most interesting video so far. Had to subscribe. Synthetic bottleneck created by overclocking ram and CPU in the wrong order.... Cmon jay what was the correct order? Was this code for evga gave him new motherboard?


Someone else asked about the order and he responded:



> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/517446458715680770


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Someone else asked about the order and he responded:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/517446458715680770
> 
> 
> 
> Cool thanks man. Not sure why he went in a different order from that, but I wouldn't have thought it would cause problems. Anyway I'm sure almost everyone goes in that order.
Click to expand...


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Cool thanks man. Not sure why he went in a different order from that, but I wouldn't have thought it would cause problems. Anyway I'm sure almost everyone goes in that order.


In my case....my CPU is boosted to 39 automatically, and my GPUs are stock OC'd since they are superclocks. I haven't even touched RAM outside of my attempts to OC a few days ago.


----------



## Inso-Thinktank

Please add me to the club!


----------



## dboythagr8

looks nice. good cable management


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inso-Thinktank*
> 
> Please add me to the club!


Would look great with some back-plates, I recently picked mine up, although they didn't drop the temps 3-4 C as do the EVGA 780 Ti Classy's do (greater surface area with which to dissipate heat I imagine) they didn't increase the temps either. They look great, afford some protection especially if your primary is under a giant air-cooler as mine is and you pull it out once in a blue moon.


----------



## vulcan78

Well I finally got 4.6 GHz stable again, for some reason after picking up my ROG Swift I started to experience freezing and the occasional BSOD now that both my GPU's are sufficiently utilized at 2560x1440 and 120Hz (yes CPU related, BlueScreenView reporting Ntoskrnl.exe) I had to dial it back to 4.5Ghz but after scouring this forum I made a few adjustments that allowed me to step back up to 4.6Ghz at 1.4V:

Increase DRAM Voltage from 1.650 to 1.675V
Increase DRAM Current from 120% to 140% (Optimized)
Increase CPU VTT and VCCSA from 1.15 to 1.2V
Increase CPU Current On-Rush from 170% to 180%

(LLC: High, CPU PLL: 1.85V)

Oh and in the process of reducing the CPU freq from 4.6GHz to 4.5Ghz the first time I tightened my timings back up, to attain 4.6Ghz initially I had made changes recommended in Asus's Ivy E overclocking guide that were pretty extensive, including RAS to CAS etc, all of that is restored to default so my memory is probably a bit snappier. It is now 4.6Ghz stable again, both Prime95 and in games with the default memory timings.

Question now though is, how detrimental would it be to run this chip at say 4.25V (Offset)? I think I might be able to get 4.7Ghz there but am a bit reluctant as it seems to be pretty fairly established that 1.4V is the limit and that going over risks premature degradation and failure. I do have the Intel Tuning Plan and I definitely don't have a stellar overclocker (4.6GHz with everything essentially maxed out) and I am on Offset voltage, meaning it only sees peak voltage under sufficient load.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Well I finally got 4.6 GHz stable again, for some reason after picking up my ROG Swift I started to experience freezing and the occasional BSOD now that both my GPU's are sufficiently utilized at 2560x1440 and 120Hz (yes CPU related, BlueScreenView reporting Ntoskrnl.exe) I had to dial it back to 4.5Ghz but after scouring this forum I made a few adjustments that allowed me to step back up to 4.6Ghz at 1.4V:
> 
> Increase DRAM Voltage from 1.650 to 1.675V
> Increase DRAM Current from 120% to 140% (Optimized)
> Increase CPU VTT and VCCSA from 1.15 to 1.2V
> Increase CPU Current On-Rush from 170% to 180%
> 
> (LLC: High, CPU PLL: 1.85V)
> 
> Oh and in the process of reducing the CPU freq from 4.6GHz to 4.5Ghz the first time I tightened my timings back up, to attain 4.6Ghz initially I had made changes recommended in Asus's Ivy E overclocking guide that were pretty extensive, including RAS to CAS etc, all of that is restored to default so my memory is probably a bit snappier. It is now 4.6Ghz stable again, both Prime95 and in games with the default memory timings.
> 
> Question now though is, how detrimental would it be to run this chip at say 4.25V (Offset)? I think I might be able to get 4.7Ghz there but am a bit reluctant as it seems to be pretty fairly established that 1.4V is the limit and that going over risks premature degradation and failure. I do have the Intel Tuning Plan and I definitely don't have a stellar overclocker (4.6GHz with everything essentially maxed out) and I am on Offset voltage, meaning it only sees peak voltage under sufficient load.


Adjusting the CPU Voltage Freq to 500 did wonders with my CPU, I was able to get 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38 vc stable (good chip), but it could be worth trying to get the highest clock underneath 1,4 volts.

Jpmboy's tip by the way.

strap = 100 (not auto)
CPU PLL = 1.825 to 1.850
*CPU voltage freq = 500*
VSCCA LLC = auto
All DRAM current to 120%
DRAM Phase = Optimized


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Adjusting the CPU Voltage Freq to 500 did wonders with my CPU, *I was able to get 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38 vc stable* (good chip), but it could be worth trying to get the highest clock underneath 1,4 volts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Jpmboy's tip by the way.
> 
> strap = 100 (not auto)
> CPU PLL = 1.825 to 1.850
> *CPU voltage freq = 500*
> VSCCA LLC = auto
> All DRAM current to 120%
> DRAM Phase = Optimized


Bro! that's a super OC! nice work! That has to be a rocket...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Bro! that's a super OC! nice work! That has to be a rocket...


I did not get that much better performance (gaming-wise) with 4,9 over 4,7 so until i get the dominator platinums i will stick with 4,7. They got sent today, so i will probably have them to the weekend. I highly doubt i will be running 4,9 anyways, i have such a good time at 4,7 with 1,3 vc. It does not seem like 4,9 is necassary for gaming, maybe i gi 4,8 GHz though.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Isnt that pll high though?

Raising dram that much isnt going to do a damn thing

Why do you need dominator platinums?its overpriced crap


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Isnt that pll high though?
> 
> Raising dram that much isnt going to do a damn thing
> 
> Why do you need dominator platinums?its overpriced crap


The main reason I am buying the Dominator Platinums is because I came across 16GB (4x 4GB) 2400 Mhz CL9 for 217 USD including shipping, my RAM is mismatched and only good for 1866 Mhz so I figured I should try 2400 Mhz so that I could run 2133 Mhz at least. I do think they are overpriced when they are new, but used I think that was a good price.

With your logic I have to ask:
Why do you have a stationary computer, when you just could use a laptop?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Thats a descent price no argument then. I just say it because corsair has crappy market practices and i dont get people paying so much for their bins when you can get a g.skill kit with the same bins for 100dollars less

U mistake my distaste for a specific company as some squewed sense of logic.

I have several stationary computers because i like to overclock ram. And run super pi. I have a smartphone so i dont need a laptop(for mobile internet use).
Every stationary i have is to get a higher possible memory prequency.

I have 50+ memory sticks and none are corsair. Only corsair kit worth a damn is the c10 2666 samsung based kit

Got side tracked i was just worried you were going to spend 400 or something on some corsairs when you could spend 200 on gskills same specd kit. I am trying to boycot corsair personally. They seem to be about the money and not about the product. They have great ram but its overpriced and i hear their psus take out your entire system when their one rail goes out


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I did not get that much better performance (gaming-wise) with 4,9 over 4,7 so until i get the dominator platinums i will stick with 4,7. They got sent today, so i will probably have them to the weekend. I highly doubt i will be running 4,9 anyways, i have such a good time at 4,7 with 1,3 vc. It does not seem like 4,9 is necassary for gaming, maybe i gi 4,8 GHz though.


doubtful you are playing games that are THAT cpu-bound. [email protected] will go forever.. and go fast forever!









PLL ranges from 1.65V when using166 strap, to 1.9V when using 100 strap. The strap frequency affects the voltage needed to lock phasing on the various buses. And no, it is not too high. I've been running 1.85V on my 4960X for about a year now with 4.6-4.8GHz on 100 strap. No problems what-so-ever.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> doubtful you are playing games that at THAT cpu-bound. [email protected] will go forever.. and go fast forever!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PLL ranges from 1.65V when using166 strap, to 1.9V when using 100 strap. The strap frequency affects the voltage needed to lock phasing on the various buses. And no, it is not too high. I've been running 1.85V on my 4960X for about a year now with 4.6-4.8GHz on 100 strap. No problems what-so-ever.


As of now I do not have to go past 4,7 Ghz @ 1,3 vc for a good gaming experience and my four R9 290X (running stock) squirt out frames @ 4K in any game at max settings.

I use 1,825v PLL I think.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I want to see it on cold. My 6144mhz chip is i think +.05v on 4.7, and takes 1.42 for 4.8, 1.46 ish for 4.9, 5.0 takes 1.5. temp at 1.5 is 81-83peaks on hottest cores

Before that temps werent touching 70 though.

I need some cold and i guess win xp.

Win7 is crap to oc with. I get startup issues with it almost every time.

On pll i wasnt sure cuz with sb-e i know it was bad to go over 1.8 and no one would freaking tell me what were acceptable ranges when o asked


----------



## Inso-Thinktank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Would look great with some back-plates, I recently picked mine up, although they didn't drop the temps 3-4 C as do the EVGA 780 Ti Classy's do (greater surface area with which to dissipate heat I imagine) they didn't increase the temps either. They look great, afford some protection especially if your primary is under a giant air-cooler as mine is and you pull it out once in a blue moon.


lol....here ya go! The pics I submitted earlier are old and was too lazy to update a new pic. I have the back plates on my cards. Yea a little dusty, need to clean out my case this weekend.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Adjusting the CPU Voltage Freq to 500 did wonders with my CPU, I was able to get 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38 vc stable (good chip), but it could be worth trying to get the highest clock underneath 1,4 volts.
> 
> Jpmboy's tip by the way.
> 
> strap = 100 (not auto)
> CPU PLL = 1.825 to 1.850
> *CPU voltage freq = 500*
> VSCCA LLC = auto
> All DRAM current to 120%
> DRAM Phase = Optimized


I forgot to mention I already have Voltage Freq at 500. VSCCA LLC is on auto as well I believe, it is CPU LLC that I have on "High" that results in a +.005V discrepancy between displayed voltage and voltage measured on the board with a multimeter, right now 1.392V is displayed in Hwinfo64 under load and 1.398 is what's showing on the motherboard.

Any reason why DRAM at 120% over 140%? This was one of the changes that restored the stability and allowed me to reign back in 4.6Ghz, I'm afraid to dial this back to 120% unless it is not recommended to run it 24/7. DRAM Phase is also optimized.

CPU PLL is at 1.85.

Strap is at 100 I believe, although I think the setting here is at XMP, would it be better to turn this to manual? I've read somewhere that if youre making as many changes as we have you need to switch XMP to Manual.

Anyone care to opine on running 1.425V 24/7 (Offset)?


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inso-Thinktank*
> 
> lol....here ya go! The pics I submitted earlier are old and was too lazy to update a new pic. I have the back plates on my cards. Yea a little dusty, need to clean out my case this weekend.


Looking much better! Speaking of dusting, I'm thinking of picking this up when I get paid again, I find that I'm taking a can of compressed air to my rig like every 3-4 days.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW/?tag=pcgedit-20

Edit: Just noticed you are sporting 780 Ti Classified SLI! Did you actually see a reduction in temps with the back-plates? And there is a spider in your case!!!


----------



## dboythagr8

Ordered a Kill A Watt...will see exactly how much I am pulling from the wall and if I really need to look into a bigger PSU.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I forgot to mention I already have Voltage Freq at 500. VSCCA LLC is on auto as well I believe, it is CPU LLC that I have on "High" that results in a +.005V discrepancy between displayed voltage and voltage measured on the board with a multimeter, right now 1.392V is displayed in Hwinfo64 under load and 1.398 is what's showing on the motherboard.
> 
> Any reason why DRAM at 120% over 140%? This was one of the changes that restored the stability and allowed me to reign back in 4.6Ghz, I'm afraid to dial this back to 120% unless it is not recommended to run it 24/7. DRAM Phase is also optimized.
> 
> CPU PLL is at 1.85.
> 
> Strap is at 100 I believe, although I think the setting here is at XMP, would it be better to turn this to manual? I've read somewhere that if youre making as many changes as we have you need to switch XMP to Manual.
> 
> Anyone care to opine on running 1.425V 24/7 (Offset)?


I use manual overclocking myself, I have heard that I should not do offset over 4,6 Ghz/4,7 Ghz either, I guess that means that you should use manual overclocking for 1,425 volts.

So, change "offset" to "manual", CPU strap to "100" not "auto". SB-E/IVY-E not above 1,4 volts for 24/7 as a rule of thumb.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Ordered a Kill A Watt...will see exactly how much I am pulling from the wall and if I really need to look into a bigger PSU.


It seems a little weird that you have problems with 1300 wattage PSU for 3-way Titan (at least if they are stock) and stock 4930K does not pull that much power.

I mean I was able to drive Hitman Absolution (@ max settings) with 3930K (stock), 4x R9 290X (stock on air), 3x HDDs, one D5 pump and four 120 mm fans off of my EVGA G2 1300W (and it went fine). Had troubles with BF4 @ Ultra though.

But I thought that four R9 290X's used more power than three Titan's, I might be wrong about it.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I know if you have kpc 780ti cards you can only have 2 per psu, they are 600watt cards.

Having more voltage to dram isnt gonna do anything unless you need the voltage for a ram ovrrclock. And voltage that low wouldnt help. Ram improves with alot of volts +.05 isnt really anything


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Isnt that pll high though?
> 
> Raising dram that much isnt going to do a damn thing
> 
> Why do you need dominator platinums?its overpriced crap


aesthetics


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Yeah they do look good but there are other good looking sticks out there. Ie avexir blitz 1.1 series, pi sticks , adata ddr4 is gorgeous i think kingston is good too but havent seen ddr4 from them yet


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> It seems a little weird that you have problems with 1300 wattage PSU for 3-way Titan (at least if they are stock) and stock 4930K does not pull that much power.
> 
> I mean I was able to drive Hitman Absolution (@ max settings) with 3930K (stock), 4x R9 290X (stock on air), 3x HDDs, one D5 pump and four 120 mm fans off of my EVGA G2 1300W (and it went fine). Had troubles with BF4 @ Ultra though.
> 
> But I thought that four R9 290X's used more power than three Titan's, I might be wrong about it.


I don't understand it either.

Everything seems to be ok when I leave the Titan Blacks at their stock Superclock settings, power @ 100%, and temp limit of 82. I haven't had any crashes. My other profile I would add additional voltage and up the temp limit to 90c.

What's weird is that my first card in BF4 would fluctuate in the 900ish range, while the other two would be 1058 or whatever. They would sync up but the first one hardly ever did.

I feel like something is going on here and I just don't know where to pinpoint the problem. It's very frustrating when you spend so much on this type of system and the performance isn't what it should be.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Yeah they do look good but there are other good looking sticks out there. Ie avexir blitz 1.1 series, pi sticks , adata ddr4 is gorgeous i think kingston is good too but havent seen ddr4 from them yet


none that i have seen match them for certain builds

on the RIVBE they are near perfect


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I don't understand it either.
> 
> Everything seems to be ok when I leave the Titan Blacks at their stock Superclock settings, power @ 100%, and temp limit of 82. I haven't had any crashes. My other profile I would add additional voltage and up the temp limit to 90c.
> 
> What's weird is that my first card in BF4 would fluctuate in the 900ish range, while the other two would be 1058 or whatever. They would sync up but the first one hardly ever did.
> 
> I feel like something is going on here and I just don't know where to pinpoint the problem. It's very frustrating when you spend so much on this type of system and the performance isn't what it should be.


If you add voltage I guess those Titan Blacks could swallow a lot of power, I have heard that my R9 290X's can pull a lot more than 1300 wattage alone when they are overclocked (four of course).

But to put it right I ran BF4 @ 4K Ultra with stock cards and stock 3930K and my machine shut down and I got a message in bios about PSU failure (extended the 1300 wattage), it ran fine at LOW and MEDIUM settings, as well as any other game I tried. I think my system draw around 1600-1700 wattage with my system (sig rig) and I have only overclocked my CPU, cards is stock.

Every card is different, so even if you have the same voltage on every card it does not mean that they will do the same clocks (but I am sure you know that already). 3-way stock Titans should pull around 1000 wattage with your CPU slightly overclocked.

I really, really feel you man!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I want to see it on cold. My 6144mhz chip is i think +.05v on 4.7, and takes 1.42 for 4.8, 1.46 ish for 4.9, 5.0 takes 1.5. temp at 1.5 is 81-83peaks on hottest cores
> 
> Before that temps werent touching 70 though.
> 
> I need some cold and i guess win xp.
> 
> Win7 is crap to oc with. I get startup issues with it almost every time.
> 
> On pll i wasnt sure cuz with sb-e i know it was bad to go over 1.8 and no one would freaking tell me what were acceptable ranges when o asked


voltage for the phase lock loop (PLL) really depends on the bclk freq and strap, and how far from 100 the DMI/PEg (qpi) is. ie, 127bclk on 125 strap is a dmi of 127/125=101.6.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Yeah i know i am just used to being told my pll was way to high.so i am surprised for once when my pll is within range or too low
1.73 for 125 was always a lil high for me on my sbe and it was 1.8+ for 100 so i never used 100 strap. .. pll seems to give me the most trouble getting stability


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Ordered a Kill A Watt...will see exactly how much I am pulling from the wall and if I really need to look into a bigger PSU.


Yeah in regards to your issue I was going to initially suggest that it might be wattage starvation with 3x Titan SLI but looking at your rig description I figured 1300 W should be more than ample. Figure about 260W per GPU with factory clocks and another what 160 or so for your 4930. It is a possibility, somewhat remote, that your PSU is not providing enough wattage, especially if it is say 3-5 years old. Under 3 years old, unless it's defective, it should be putting out around 1300 W.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I use manual overclocking myself, I have heard that I should not do offset over 4,6 Ghz/4,7 Ghz either, I guess that means that you should use manual overclocking for 1,425 volts.
> 
> So, change "offset" to "manual", CPU strap to "100" not "auto". SB-E/IVY-E not above 1,4 volts for 24/7 as a rule of thumb.


Hmmm, it's worth a shot trying for 4.7Ghz with 1.4V simply changing 'XMP' to 'Manual'. What settings will change switching XMP to Manual and if so what are recommended settings (CPU VTT, VCCSA, etc.)?

Yeah I suppose there really isn't anything to be had with another 100Mhz by going considerably over 1.4V.


----------



## sam66er

just dont forget my signature !! sam66er


----------



## Inso-Thinktank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Looking much better! Speaking of dusting, I'm thinking of picking this up when I get paid again, I find that I'm taking a can of compressed air to my rig like every 3-4 days.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW/?tag=pcgedit-20
> 
> Edit: Just noticed you are sporting 780 Ti Classified SLI! Did you actually see a reduction in temps with the back-plates? And there is a spider in your case!!!


with the back-plates, I got 3-5 degree drops, not much to justify spending more money on plates. Main reason why I bought them was for cosmetic purposes. LOL, that's my Diablo III Collectors Edition flash drive, looks better in my case than it did sitting inside the box.

Also, I checked your amazon link, yea i may get that but then I saw this:

http://www.poscleaning.com/BRAND-NEW-ED-500-ESD-DataVac-ESD-Safe-120VAC-Electric-Duster-ED-500-ESD.htm

It's their ESD safe version! I would rather spend the extra money on that due to my expensive rig.


----------



## dboythagr8

KIll A Watt numbers are in. 4930k, 3 Titan Blacks, Heaven Benchmark:

Stock voltage,100% power, 83c limit, Adaptive Power NVCP = <960w
+5 voltage, 106%, 90c limit, Max Power NVCP = <985w

Not once did the system draw over 1000w.

3DMark --

+5 voltage, 106%, 90c limit, Max Power NVCP = <1037w

Did cross 1000w mark here during the GPU tests


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inso-Thinktank*
> 
> with the back-plates, I got 3-5 degree drops, not much to justify spending more money on plates. Main reason why I bought them was for cosmetic purposes. LOL, that's my Diablo III Collectors Edition flash drive, looks better in my case than it did sitting inside the box.
> 
> Also, I checked your amazon link, yea i may get that but then I saw this:
> 
> http://www.poscleaning.com/BRAND-NEW-ED-500-ESD-DataVac-ESD-Safe-120VAC-Electric-Duster-ED-500-ESD.htm
> 
> It's their ESD safe version! I would rather spend the extra money on that due to my expensive rig.


A reduction of 3-5 C isn't worth $20 (per GPU)? I think I am actually seeing a reduction on my secondary GPU as it idles around 26-28 C and has load temps of around 64-67 C (1241 core/1851 memory default vbios/voltage) whereas back when I was non-SLI the primary would idle around 29-31 C. There has been no change in idle or load temps on the primary as it is sitting directly under the CPU air-cooler and isn't getting adequate air-flow over the top of the card:






Primary idle and load temps are usually 29-31 and 72-75 C respectively, not bad for air-cooling, and especially considering the load as either 120 G-Sync or 3D Vision keep utilization above 70% fairly constant. For comparison reference 980 SLI load temps are 85 C on default clocks with considerably less TDP.

Here's my latest Firestrike benches with these clocks:

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/2870775

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/2870755


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> KIll A Watt numbers are in. 4930k, 3 Titan Blacks, Heaven Benchmark:
> 
> Stock voltage,100% power, 83c limit, Adaptive Power NVCP = <960w
> +5 voltage, 106%, 90c limit, Max Power NVCP = <985w
> 
> Not once did the system draw over 1000w.
> 
> 3DMark --
> 
> +5 voltage, 106%, 90c limit, Max Power NVCP = <1037w
> 
> Did cross 1000w mark here during the GPU tests


That sucks dude, I think the issue is related to your third GPU and possibly the motherboard itself, money permitting I would ditch those Titans for 2x 980 or 1080 Ti or Titan 2 (?) on 22nM when they arrive next year. I would recommend pulling one of the Titan's out but I believe you have three monitors in surround correct?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Hmmm, it's worth a shot trying for 4.7Ghz with 1.4V simply changing 'XMP' to 'Manual'. What settings will change switching XMP to Manual and if so what are recommended settings (CPU VTT, VCCSA, etc.)?
> 
> Yeah I suppose there really isn't anything to be had with another 100Mhz by going considerably over 1.4V.


The settings for XMP vs Manual is mostly Dram timings and voltage (just use the recommended/stock to the sticks you have). What CPU VTT, VCCSA is recommended I do not know, but you could take a look at my bios and that should give you an idea of those settings as well.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














That posted I just have to say that unless you see any bottlenecks with 4,6 Ghz I do not see the reason to push for 4,7 Ghz. I seemed to bottleneck my quadfire with 4,6 Ghz and @ 4,7 Ghz I was good. Even though if my CPU is stable at both 4,8 Ghz and 4,9 Ghz underneath 1,4 volts I rather use it at the "lowest" clock that my system work optimal with. That is something you have to figure out though.

I hope that helped, anyways I guess you will figure it out.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> KIll A Watt numbers are in. 4930k, 3 Titan Blacks, Heaven Benchmark:
> 
> Stock voltage,100% power, 83c limit, Adaptive Power NVCP = <960w
> +5 voltage, 106%, 90c limit, Max Power NVCP = <985w
> 
> Not once did the system draw over 1000w.
> 
> 3DMark --
> 
> +5 voltage, 106%, 90c limit, Max Power NVCP = <1037w
> 
> Did cross 1000w mark here during the GPU tests


Hmm ... does not seem to be the PSU then ... have you tested with your CPU @ 4,4 Ghz too? Do your system lag/hang in games or do you notice bad FPS?

If so, you might experience what I experienced with 4,6 Ghz vs 4,7 Ghz. 4,6 Ghz with my four cards at stock gave me 50-60 FPS and a REALLY bad experience in BF4 and Metro Last Light, when I cranked the CPU to 4,7 Ghz it did not lag/hang anything with stock cards (still four cards) and my FPS was suddenly 100-180 FPS in-game. That is only 100 Mhz difference, with three cards it did not matter, but with four cards there was a different story for me. Everything else of my rig is the same before and after that 4,6 Ghz vs 4,7 Ghz so that has to be what caused the problems for me. I also had those problems with my 3930K @ 4,6 Ghz with 1,44 volts ...


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> That sucks dude, I think the issue is related to your third GPU and possibly the motherboard itself, money permitting I would ditch those Titans for 2x 980 or 1080 Ti or Titan 2 (?) on 22nM when they arrive next year. I would recommend pulling one of the Titan's out but I believe you have three monitors in surround correct?


Well what's weird is...I recently got a new SLI bridge and ditched the EVGA Pro:



I haven't had a crash since....

I don't know if it's coincidence or what. I halfway didn't even want to type this as I'm afraid I might jinx myself.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I hope that helped, anyways I guess you will figure it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm ... does not seem to be the PSU then ... have you tested with your CPU @ 4,4 Ghz too? Do your system lag/hang in games or do you notice bad FPS?
> 
> If so, you might experience what I experienced with 4,6 Ghz vs 4,7 Ghz. 4,6 Ghz with my four cards at stock gave me 50-60 FPS and a REALLY bad experience in BF4 and Metro Last Light, when I cranked the CPU to 4,7 Ghz it did not lag/hang anything with stock cards (still four cards) and my FPS was suddenly 100-180 FPS in-game. That is only 100 Mhz difference, with three cards it did not matter, but with four cards there was a different story for me. Everything else of my rig is the same before and after that 4,6 Ghz vs 4,7 Ghz so that has to be what caused the problems for me. I also had those problems with my 3930K @ 4,6 Ghz with 1,44 volts ...


Well I was getting hard crashes in BF4 and Heaven. Not necessarily bad fps performance. I'm already aware that my CPU is holding the cards back at 3.9ghz. I'm ok with that since I'm still getting decent performance from brute force. I am more concerned about the crashing.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> KIll A Watt numbers are in. 4930k, 3 Titan Blacks, Heaven Benchmark:
> 
> Stock voltage,100% power, 83c limit, Adaptive Power NVCP = <960w
> +5 voltage, 106%, 90c limit, Max Power NVCP = <985w
> 
> Not once did the system draw over 1000w.
> 
> 3DMark --
> 
> +5 voltage, 106%, 90c limit, Max Power NVCP = <1037w
> 
> Did cross 1000w mark here during the GPU tests


Sorry I haven't been following ..........








I gather that test was running stock clocks all round ??


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Sorry I haven't been following ..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gather that test was running stock clocks all round ??


Yes. Stock 4930k which boosts to 3.9ghz, and the stock OC on my SC Titan Blacks.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Isnt that pll high though?
> 
> Raising dram that much isnt going to do a damn thing
> 
> Why do you need dominator platinums?its overpriced crap


Dom Plats are overpriced BUT my 2666 C11's will do 2500 C9 on 3930k , 2800 + C11 on 4960x and 3000 C13 on 3258 / 4970k . So for me its what I need . $380AU new for 16gb kit


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Well what's weird is...I recently got a new SLI bridge and ditched the EVGA Pro:
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't had a crash since....


Fancy stuff is just crap, at least stuff like that. I had two Asus ROG SLI bridges quit on me when I was doing GTX 660 Ti 3-way SLI for about one and a half year ago, the SLI-bridges that came with the cards was still working this May and they were WAY older and used WAY more.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Yes. Stock 4930k which boosts to 3.9ghz, and the stock OC on my SC Titan Blacks.


If you do need moar juice a 2nd psu will do the trick . A 2nd psu enabled me to run 3 290's @[email protected] and hex cpu @5.2ghz


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> If you do need moar juice a 2nd psu will do the trick . A 2nd psu enabled me to run 3 290's @[email protected] and hex cpu @5.2ghz


A second PSU always do the trick if you use more power than your first PSU can deliver. I noticed a big difference adding another PSU. Of course 2x 1300 wattage PSU's is a bit over the top for my system though.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> The settings for XMP vs Manual is mostly Dram timings and voltage (just use the recommended/stock to the sticks you have). What CPU VTT, VCCSA is recommended I do not know, but you could take a look at my bios and that should give you an idea of those settings as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That posted I just have to say that unless you see any bottlenecks with 4,6 Ghz I do not see the reason to push for 4,7 Ghz. I seemed to bottleneck my quadfire with 4,6 Ghz and @ 4,7 Ghz I was good. Even though if my CPU is stable at both 4,8 Ghz and 4,9 Ghz underneath 1,4 volts I rather use it at the "lowest" clock that my system work optimal with. That is something you have to figure out though.
> 
> I hope that helped, anyways I guess you will figure it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm ... does not seem to be the PSU then ... have you tested with your CPU @ 4,4 Ghz too? Do your system lag/hang in games or do you notice bad FPS?
> 
> If so, you might experience what I experienced with 4,6 Ghz vs 4,7 Ghz. 4,6 Ghz with my four cards at stock gave me 50-60 FPS and a REALLY bad experience in BF4 and Metro Last Light, when I cranked the CPU to 4,7 Ghz it did not lag/hang anything with stock cards (still four cards) and my FPS was suddenly 100-180 FPS in-game. That is only 100 Mhz difference, with three cards it did not matter, but with four cards there was a different story for me. Everything else of my rig is the same before and after that 4,6 Ghz vs 4,7 Ghz so that has to be what caused the problems for me. I also had those problems with my 3930K @ 4,6 Ghz with 1,44 volts ...


Thanks for the advice Go Big, yeah CPU multi's make a dramatic difference with SLI, even 2x, just recently I discovered how dramatic; I was playing Bioshock: Infinite maxed out (alt post process) when I first acquired my ROG Swift and the Rapture portion of "Burial at Sea Part 2" I was dismayed to find the framerate to be sub-par, like around 70 or so looking directly at the center of the main room of Rapture (where the Big Daddy is), alt+tabbing out of the game I discovered that I had neglected to select the "High Performance" windows power setting (I usually keep it on Balanced for mundane activity like surfing the web etc.) after going from the default 3.4Ghz to 4.5Ghz my frames went from 70 to 100 in this area! So at this point I am trying to push the CPU frequency as high as possible as I know there is a direct performance correlation, even if a game may not exactly be CPU bound, especially now that I am thoroughly enjoying Nvidia 3D Vision (it is very cool, if youve yet to experience it and own a ROG Swift I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT OVER G-SYNC) with AC4: Black Flag, Crysis 3 and Metro: LL (hopefully newer titles support it, especially Alien Isolation and Witcher 3) a high CPU OC is absolutely critical to maintaining 60 FPS (with 3D your hardware actually needs to render 120 FPS for you to see 60 FPS 3D).

I will take a look at your setting and try them later. I tried switching from XMP to Manual last night and got a series of BSOD with 4.7GHz and ~1.410V. Right now 4.6GHz is solid with VCORE 1.398V as measured on the board with a multi-meter so I think I'm going to leave it here.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> A second PSU always do the trick if you use more power than your first PSU can deliver. I noticed a big difference adding another PSU. Of course 2x 1300 wattage PSU's is a bit over the top for my system though.


At the time I ended up with 2 cause of prev psu died and I a received store credit so I grabbed another Silverstone Evo strider gold 1300 to match the other one . But when I had Bios modded Tri 780ti , 2x 1300w was still not enough for all 3 to play nice at 1400mhz . I was recommended to use 2 x 1500w ( not Silverstone ) and a EV bot controller device thingy and a separate loop per card because of the massive amounts heat generated


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> At the time I ended up with 2 cause of prev psu died and I a received store credit so I grabbed another Silverstone Evo strider gold 1300 to match the other one . But when I had Bios modded Tri 780ti , 2x 1300w was still not enough for all 3 to play nice at 1400mhz . I was recommended to use 2 x 1500w ( not Silverstone ) and a EV bot controller device thingy and a separate loop per card because of the massive amounts heat generated


How much power were you feeding those 780s? I know they need the realm of 290x power but 3 290xs with high clocks would be fine off 2600w you would need 2 breakers for that much power lol. If you doubled the power consumption of the cards thats still on 1300w for the cards so I don't see how you need 2 1300w psus your psus must have had something wrong. I have seen 4 290xs at modded max power target (400w each card) ran off 2 x 1.2k w psus.

Not trying to be mean or anything but im not believing three 780tis needing 3000w

Also separate loop per card is a little extreme and completely not needed. Rads will dissipate heat the same way no matter what separating a loop will often end with components being hotter as there is wasted radiator its been proving before that dual loop don't = Better temps if the dual loop setup was put into 1 it would be the same however the temps would be more average you would have been fine throwing all 3 on and all else on your chiller. the notion that splitting 1 loop into 4 is going to make the rads dissipate more heat is just wrong.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> How much power were you feeding those 780s? I know they need the realm of 290x power but 3 290xs with high clocks would be fine off 2600w you would need 2 breakers for that much power lol. If you doubled the power consumption of the cards thats still on 1300w for the cards so I don't see how you need 2 1300w psus your psus must have had something wrong. I have seen 4 290xs at modded max power target (400w each card) ran off 2 x 1.2k w psus.
> 
> Not trying to be mean or anything but im not believing three 780tis needing 3000w
> 
> Also separate loop per card is a little extreme and completely not needed. Rads will dissipate heat the same way no matter what separating a loop will often end with components being hotter as there is wasted radiator its been proving before that dual loop don't = Better temps if the dual loop setup was put into 1 it would be the same however the temps would be more average you would have been fine throwing all 3 on and all else on your chiller. the notion that splitting 1 loop into 4 is going to make the rads dissipate more heat is just wrong.


I think when he fires up his rig, the city lights dim.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> At the time I ended up with 2 cause of prev psu died and I a received store credit so I grabbed another Silverstone Evo strider gold 1300 to match the other one . But when I had Bios modded Tri 780ti , 2x 1300w was still not enough for all 3 to play nice at 1400mhz . I was recommended to use 2 x 1500w ( not Silverstone ) and a EV bot controller device thingy and a separate loop per card because of the massive amounts heat generated


Well, it seems to be plenty for me with 2x 1300W with four cards (of course running stock atm). Drawing around 1700-1800 wattage with CPU @ 4,7 Ghz now.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Well, it seems to be plenty for me with 2x 1300W with four cards (of course running stock atm). Drawing around 1700-1800 wattage with CPU @ 4,7 Ghz now.


What kind of amperage breaker are you running?
I've been told if I want to use a UPS with my trifire setup (pulls about 1000-1100W) I should upgrade to 30amp. I have a nice UPS that was perfect for 850W gaming machine but it cant handle the extra 200W or whatever it is.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Not trying to be mean or anything but im not believing three 780tis needing 3000w


AFAIK

He's not saying they need 3000W

He's saying they need more than 1500W


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> What kind of amperage breaker are you running?
> I've been told if I want to use a UPS with my trifire setup (pulls about 1000-1100W) I should upgrade to 30amp. I have a nice UPS that was perfect for 850W gaming machine but it cant handle the extra 200W or whatever it is.


Oh, it seems like the wall outlet is 16 amp. I have no problem what so ever with 16 amp running DAC, 2.0 Studio Monitors, 4K monitor, 2x 1300W PSU's on the same circuit. I have no shortening of circuits, beside when I have my PSU's enabled when I plug the power-cables to the wall outlet (which you should not do). So in addition, I have no problems what so ever.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> AFAIK
> 
> He's not saying they need 3000W
> 
> He's saying they need more than 1500W


He said 2 1300w psus wasnt enough so hes saying that 2600w isn't enough. Then he said he needed 2x 1500w so hes claiming it needs more than 2600 but less than 3000w.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Oh, it seems like the wall outlet is 16 amp. I have no problem what so ever with 16 amp running DAC, 2.0 Studio Monitors, 4K monitor, 2x 1300W PSU's on the same circuit. I have no shortening of circuits, beside when I have my PSU's enabled when I plug the power-cables to the wall outlet (which you should not do). So in addition, I have no problems what so ever.


Your in Norway so I assume you have 220v power sockets? 16 amps 220 = 32 amps in 110. So if Electro is in the US its alot different. In the us a 1500w power supply will not work with the usual 15 amp breakers if its fully loaded.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Your in Norway so I assume you have 220v power sockets? 16 amps 220 = 32 amps in 110. So if Electro is in the US its alot different. In the us a 1500w power supply will not work with the usual 15 amp breakers if its fully loaded.


Yes, I live in Norway, and it is actually 230v sockets.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Yes, it is 220v socket ...


Ya so your good with that your lucky you guys got 220v lol. But he is also right as he lives in the US where he would need a 30 amp breaker (Im not sure he needs 30 I would think 20 would be good enough but hey if your changing it anyway).

230v Is even better


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Ya so your good with that your lucky you guys got 220v lol. But he is also right as he lives in the US where he would need a 30 amp breaker (Im not sure he needs 30 I would think 20 would be good enough but hey if your changing it anyway).


Oh.... Norway! I get it.







Wow. It's a big world, man LOL


----------



## tatmMRKIV

It only needs more than 2600 watts of you are doing ln2 levels of overclocking with 4 780ti classified cards.
I had this convo with the psu experts on this site.
otherwise 2 g2 1300s is fine. Anyways 2 g2 1300s are probably capable of 3000 watts total peak output. Whatever the superflower platinum 1200 can do since they are just rebranded superflower platinum psus supposedly they are monstrrs


----------



## shampoo911

hey guys... im buying in the next days a RIV BE, and im still looking for a good cooler...

i want a NH-D15, but i think, it will block the first PCI-E slot... so should i go for corsair h110??

i run a 7970 crossfire... will this lack of space, be an issue?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Get h110


----------



## reev3r

Wondering if anybody would be able to help me out a bit... I started making a longer cable for my OC Panel, unfortunately somebody tossed out the label I had made describing the pinout... I had asked someone in this forum to either send/post a photograph of the pinout/wire color of both ends of the cable, but unfortunately the image he had posted was not detailed enough for me to discern them. He said that he would just write down the sequence of the wires on both ends for me and shoot it over, but it seems he never got around to it, and me being me, I am reluctant to bother him about it.

That being said, I am really hoping that someone could take the time to help me out and either send a detailed photograph of both sides of both ends of the connectors, with the wires visible enough to tell where they go, or be kind enough to just write down the pinout of the wires on both sides of each end...

If someone is generous enough to do so, please use the following color scheme...

X-empty slot
K-Black
G-Green
F-Gray
W-White
R-Red
L-Blue
O-Orange
Y-Yellow

Also, there are a couple of positions that are not just a black wire, but are actually the ground wire/shield with heat shrink over it, it is rather easy to tell which it is, and on the end of my wire that is still in tact it is next to the Blue (L) wire, if you could identify where that is on the other end, it would also be very helpful. 

I do very much appreciate any help that you are able to lend to this project!!!

Thank you!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> How much power were you feeding those 780s? I know they need the realm of 290x power but 3 290xs with high clocks would be fine off 2600w you would need 2 breakers for that much power lol. If you doubled the power consumption of the cards thats still on 1300w for the cards so I don't see how you need 2 1300w psus your psus must have had something wrong. I have seen 4 290xs at modded max power target (400w each card) ran off 2 x 1.2k w psus.
> 
> Not trying to be mean or anything but im not believing three 780tis needing 3000w
> 
> Also separate loop per card is a little extreme and completely not needed. Rads will dissipate heat the same way no matter what separating a loop will often end with components being hotter as there is wasted radiator its been proving before that dual loop don't = Better temps if the dual loop setup was put into 1 it would be the same however the temps would be more average you would have been fine throwing all 3 on and all else on your chiller. the notion that splitting 1 loop into 4 is going to make the rads dissipate more heat is just wrong.


I only use rads when im not benchmarking ( GPU'S only ) . CPU is on its own loop direct to chiller . You should try clocking 3 ti's @ 1400 on a modded bios that will pull *if possible up to 900w* and try to cool em . What I said about a separate loop per card its been done and does the trick nicely . Extreme benchmarking . But if you have 3 ti's running at stock and runs fine well , Whats not to believe ??








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> I think when he fires up his rig, the city lights dim.


Correct , 2 chillers and a/c








Lucky the mains cable comes in direct to my power socket on my wall









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Well, it seems to be plenty for me with 2x 1300W with four cards (of course running stock atm). Drawing around 1700-1800 wattage with CPU @ 4,7 Ghz now.


That's good man








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> AFAIK
> 
> He's not saying they need 3000W
> 
> He's saying they need more than 1500W


Correct .
but if your joa you will need as much as possible









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Wondering if anybody would be able to help me out a bit... I started making a longer cable for my OC Panel, unfortunately somebody tossed out the label I had made describing the pinout... I had asked someone in this forum to either send/post a photograph of the pinout/wire color of both ends of the cable, but unfortunately the image he had posted was not detailed enough for me to discern them. He said that he would just write down the sequence of the wires on both ends for me and shoot it over, but it seems he never got around to it, and me being me, I am reluctant to bother him about it.
> 
> That being said, I am really hoping that someone could take the time to help me out and either send a detailed photograph of both sides of both ends of the connectors, with the wires visible enough to tell where they go, or be kind enough to just write down the pinout of the wires on both sides of each end...
> 
> If someone is generous enough to do so, please use the following color scheme...
> 
> X-empty slot
> K-Black
> G-Green
> F-Gray
> W-White
> R-Red
> L-Blue
> O-Orange
> Y-Yellow
> 
> Also, there are a couple of positions that are not just a black wire, but are actually the ground wire/shield with heat shrink over it, it is rather easy to tell which it is, and on the end of my wire that is still in tact it is next to the Blue (L) wire, if you could identify where that is on the other end, it would also be very helpful.
> 
> I do very much appreciate any help that you are able to lend to this project!!!
> 
> Thank you!


I broke two wires on my cable








Sorry I let you down man


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I only use rads when im not benchmarking ( GPU'S only ) . CPU is on its own loop direct to chiller . You should try clocking 3 ti's @ 1400 on a modded bios that will pull *if possible up to 900w* and try to cool em . What I said about a separate loop per card its been done and does the trick nicely . Extreme benchmarking . But if you have 3 ti's running at stock and runs fine well , Whats not to believe ??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Correct , 2 chillers and a/c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luck the mains cable comes in direct to my power socket on my wall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's good man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Correct .
> but if your joa you will need as much as possible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I broke two wires on my cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I let you down man


Holy moly skynet bios? That is just riduclus 900w and people say the 290xs are power hungry lol. Sorry for my disbelief when I searched 900w I found what your talking about. I'm not saying desperate loops wouldn't cool well just that I don't think it would make a big enough diffrence. I do use TI's I went to the red team this gen 290xs


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Holy moly skynet bios? That is just riduclus 900w and people say the 290xs are power hungry lol. Sorry for my disbelief when I searched 900w I found what your talking about. I'm not saying seperate loops wouldn't cool well just that I don't think it would make a big enough diffrence. I do use TI's I went to the red team this gen 290xs


Yeah skynet bios . Hes good that dude .
I went the 290 route as well . Best bang for buck at half the price new . I run tri monitors . Eyefinity rocks man . But I cant get the same results with NVidia . Unless I get a card with 3 DP's im sticking to what ive got


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> He said 2 1300w psus wasnt enough so hes saying that 2600w isn't enough. Then he said he needed 2x 1500w so hes claiming it needs more than 2600 but less than 3000w.
> Your in Norway so I assume you have 220v power sockets? 16 amps 220 = 32 amps in 110. So if Electro is in the US its alot different. In the us a 1500w power supply will not work with the usual 15 amp breakers if its fully loaded.


House wiring in the U.S. Is 15 amp breaker for lights and 20 amp breaker for wall sockets. Watt = amp X voltage.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> House wiring in the U.S. Is 15 amp breaker for lights and 20 amp breaker for wall sockets. Watt = amp X voltage.


That's a AMAZING set up you have there Chris


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> That's a AMAZING set up you have there Chris


Thank you but its not finished yet, plumbing change and wire management is in order after my mini vacation. In 2 weeks, will order from Frozencpu for supplies.
Oh, wiring and voltage in Thailand is 15 amp to wall sockets at 220 volts, max 3,300 watt. If thats not enough, plug your chiller in another circuit.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Thank you but its not finished yet, plumbing change and wire management is in order after my mini vacation. In 2 weeks, will order from Frozencpu for supplies.
> Oh, wiring and voltage in Thailand is 15 amp to wall sockets at 220 volts, max 3,300 watt. If thats not enough, plug your chiller in another circuit.


I have . 1hp chiller and a/c are running off the wall in my bedroom . The rest is running off my benchroom wall sockets


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I broke two wires on my cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I let you down man


Hey, no worries man, this sort of thing happens... I just hope that it wasn't while trying to pull the sleeve back for pictures...


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> hey guys... im buying in the next days a RIV BE, and im still looking for a good cooler...
> 
> i want a NH-D15, but i think, it will block the first PCI-E slot... so should i go for corsair h110??
> 
> i run a 7970 crossfire... will this lack of space, be an issue?


Phanteks tc14pe, FTW! Same cooling performance as NH D15, both of which actually outperform all AIO coolers out there and the Phanteks doesnt block your first PCIE slot, oh and looks better than the Noctua as well.

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review

You can see the aesthetics and performance in my youtube vids on the previous page of this thread. Its hard for me to link them ATM as im on my android ar work.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> That being said, I am really hoping that someone could take the time to help me out and either send a detailed photograph of both sides of both ends of the connectors, with the wires visible enough to tell where they go, or be kind enough to just write down the pinout of the wires on both sides of each end...


pics should still be here in the thread, just click the image viewer and navigate backwards. I saw them pretty quickly, were posted September 1st.

->


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> pics should still be here in the thread, just click the image viewer and navigate backwards. I saw them pretty quickly, were posted September 1st.
> 
> ->


How goes it there fella ??









@reev3r
Yes , while I was doing that ...... soldering iron fixes all


----------



## cadaveca

Pretty good, actually. Busier than I want to be still, though. Still playing with the RIVBE, but I had an SSD death recently, might have been bad memory corrupting the drive's firmware. So now I get to do the tweaking all over again with yet another memory kit.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Practice makes perfect ??


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Practice makes perfect ??


ROFL. Yeah, I am not sure what happened. While the rig was done I bought a Surface 3 Pro, and Windows8 works well with it. It kind of makes using a desktop odd except when I want to game or need monitor space. Less processing power only means a bit more time.

But ai ai ai, DDR4 is interesting. Still got a stack of reviews to do, but having bought new wheels will free up my time again to get some done, fortunately. Until they are all done, X79 still seem pretty worthy, so I've got not much choice but to stick it out and upgrade later.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Glad you got new wheels and obviously your insurance came thru .........
Im done upgrading till at least next year


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Glad you got new wheels and obviously your insurance came thru .........
> Im done upgrading till at least next year


All spent eh?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Phanteks tc14pe, FTW! Same cooling performance as NH D15, both of which actually outperform all AIO coolers out there and the Phanteks doesnt block your first PCIE slot, oh and looks better than the Noctua as well.
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39941-noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review
> 
> You can see the aesthetics and performance in my youtube vids on the previous page of this thread. Its hard for me to link them ATM as im on my android ar work.


I LOVED my PH-TC14PE!!! It was magnificent! That being said, it did not even touch the cooling power of my H100... I think that it would blow away any 80mm AIO available, but my temps were at least 15° higher on the Phanteks than my H100... I don't know how it fares on other CPU's, but that is roughly accurate for both my 3770K ([email protected]), and my 4930K ([email protected], I could only get to 4.3GHz on the Phanteks at the same temperatures...), and my custom loop blows away both of those, although that is a given...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> pics should still be here in the thread, just click the image viewer and navigate backwards. I saw them pretty quickly, were posted September 1st.


If they are the same images I saw, they were not really sufficient to go off of...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> How goes it there fella ??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @reev3r
> Yes , while I was doing that ...... soldering iron fixes all


I am terribly sorry that it was damaged... Glad that it was easily fixed though.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> All spent eh?


With computers I am .
Back to playing with Lexy









Goes a bit faster if I close the sunroof LoooooooL


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Glad you got new wheels and obviously your insurance came thru .........
> Im done upgrading till at least next year


No insurance payouts yet. Not until physio and everything, not until after winter, and I have to shovel snow. Just took some time to make some money myself. You know how it goes. If I got all this tech work done, I'd have more yet.







But not much DDR4 to play with, going have to play with cold and X79 until then. Might as well take advantage of the winter that's fast approaching, dipped well below 0 a few times already.

And yeah...bought a minivan. Can't have much fun in that. ROFL.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> No insurance payouts yet. Not until physio and everything, not until after winter, and I have to shovel snow. Just took some time to make some money myself. You know how it goes. If I got all this tech work done, I'd have more yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But not much DDR4 to play with, going have to play with cold and X79 until then. Might as well take advantage of the winter that's fast approaching, dipped well below 0 a few times already.
> 
> And yeah...bought a minivan. Can't have much fun in that. ROFL.


Yes you can . Chock the wheels and chuck the kids in


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I LOVED my PH-TC14PE!!! It was magnificent! That being said, it did not even touch the cooling power of my H100... I think that it would blow away any 80mm AIO available, but my temps were at least 15° higher on the Phanteks than my H100... I don't know how it fares on other CPU's, but that is roughly accurate for both my 3770K ([email protected]), and my 4930K ([email protected], I could only get to 4.3GHz on the Phanteks at the same temperatures...), and my custom loop blows away both of those, although that is a given...


Oh really? I wonder if the airflow of your case and/or your paste job were factors (not trying to be insulting) as the High Tech Legion review found that both the PH TC14PE and the NH D15 outperformed either an H100 or H110 in the review I referred to. In my Air 540 I see no greater than 50 C web browsing, watching moviea etc and no more than 55 to 60 C while gaming at 4.6 GHz with 1.4 v and peak temps of 80 C after half an hour of prime95. In the following video I am playing around with 4.7 GHz @ 1.45V on day two post build:

Mr. Vulcan's first PC Build Part 2: Acoustics, Ov&#8230;: 




And heres that video showcasing the air cooler and the aftermarket fans for the person inquiring about air coolers for RIVBE. Long story short I had initially settled on the NH D15 right as it was coming out and cancelled my preorder the day before ot was to become available when I confirmed that it would indeed obstruct the firsr PCIE slot. Ended up.working out for the better as the phanteks offers comparable performance, looks better, and was $70 on sale through new egg vs. $110.

Mr. Vulcan's first PC Build Part 3: Pimp My PC:


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Oh really? I wonder if the airflow of your case and/or your paste job were factors (not trying to be insulting) as the High Tech Legion review found that both the PH TC14PE and the NH D15 outperformed either an H100 or H110 in the review I referred to. In my Air 540 I see no greater than 50 C web browsing, watching moviea etc and no more than 55 to 60 C while gaming at 4.6 GHz with 1.4 v and peak temps of 80 C after half an hour of prime95. In the following video I am playing around with 4.7 GHz @ 1.45V on day two post build:
> 
> Mr. Vulcan's first PC Build Part 2: Acoustics, Ov&#8230;:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And heres that video showcasing the air cooler and the aftermarket fans for the person inquiring about air coolers for RIVBE. Long story short I had initially settled on the NH D15 right as it was coming out and cancelled my preorder the day before ot was to become available when I confirmed that it would indeed obstruct the firsr PCIE slot. Ended up.working out for the better as the phanteks offers comparable performance, looks better, and was $70 on sale through new egg vs. $110.
> 
> Mr. Vulcan's first PC Build Part 3: Pimp My PC:


Interesting... I understand the implication of errors, however I doubt it was that, as I applied it and removed it several times, with roughly the same results... I also used the same method for application on all of the other coolers I tested. I even went so far as to replace the included Phanteks fans with a couple of Noctua fans, which showed no difference. Although, after double-checking my test results, the difference was not nearly what I had remembered... The highest difference I saw under full load, overclocked was around ~7°C, with the H100 running around 60°C and the TC14PE running between 65°-67°C. These results were duplicated several times. The worst cooler, oddly enough, was a Cooler Master Gemin II... Even worse than the Intel cooler (Though I could not test the Intel cooler on my 4930K). However, once I bent the heat pipes back into the plate (they were not even, in fact, it is THE WORST cooler I have ever seen), it showed a marked improvement over the Intel cooler, and not significantly worse than the Phanteks. On top of that, my friend's 3770K with a Noctua cooler on it was roughly the same as the Phanteks.

Here is a review of the Phanteks, compared to an H100 as well, and it shows roughly the same results I had with both...

http://goo.gl/2bl420


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I beleev3r*
> 
> I LOVED my PH-TC14PE!!! It was magnificent! That being said, it did not even touch the cooling power of my H100... I think that it would blow away any 80mm AIO available, but my temps were at least 15° higher on the Phanteks than my H100... I don't know how it fares on other CPU's, but that is roughly accurate for both my 3770K ([email protected]), and my 4930K ([email protected], I could only get to 4.3GHz on the Phanteks at the same temperatures...), and my custom loop blows away both of those, although that is a given...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Interesting... I understand the implication of errors, however I doubt it was that, as I applied it and removed it several times, with roughly the same results... I also used the same method for application on all of the other coolers I tested. I even went so far as to replace the included Phanteks fans with a couple of Noctua fans, which showed no difference. Although, after double-checking my test results, the difference was not nearly what I had remembered... The highest difference I saw under full load, overclocked was around ~7°C, with the H100 running around 60°C and the TC14PE running between 65°-67°C. These results were duplicated several times. The worst cooler, oddly enough, was a Cooler Master Gemin II... Even worse than the Intel cooler (Though I could not test the Intel cooler on my 4930K). However, once I bent the heat pipes back into the plate (they were not even, in fact, it is THE WORST cooler I have ever seen), it showed a marked improvement over the Intel cooler, and not significantly worse than the Phanteks. On top of that, my friend's 3770K with a Noctua cooler on it was roughly the same as the Phanteks.
> 
> Here is a review of the Phanteks, compared to an H100 as well, and it shows roughly the same results I had with both...
> 
> http://goo.gl/2bl420


Interesting, I wonder what the source of the variation in test results is as the reviews seem inconsistent, Linus Tech also reported superior performance from the NH D15, which the PH TC14PE nearly mirrors, although they compared it to a corsair H100i, not sure if it differs from an H100 or if they are the same:

Noctua NH-D15 Silent Tower Heatsink: 




All of this aside, my 4930 isnt getting hot enough to warrant even a custom loop! And I cant up the frequency as im already at 1.4v, at this point its not the temperature but the voltage.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Interesting, I wonder what the source of the variation in test results is as the reviews seem inconsistent, Linus Tech also reported superior performance from the NH D15, which the PH TC14PE nearly mirrors, although they compared it to a corsair H100i, not sure if it differs from an H100 or if they are the same:
> 
> Noctua NH-D15 Silent Tower Heatsink:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this aside, my 4930 isnt getting hot enough to warrant even a custom loop! And I cant up the frequency as im already at 1.4v, at this point its not the temperature but the voltage.


Wow, running at 1.4v sucks! I initially had my 4930K running at 1.39xx at 4.5gHZ, but I just was not happy running at that high of a voltage, so I decided to reset the UEFI and start over, unfortunately for some reason I am not able to get back up to 4.5gHZ again, however, I was able get up to 4.4gHZ at 1.24v! The odd part of that, is that at 4.0gHZ I had to set the voltage there, and oddly it was running stable for every stress test from there to 4.4, but once I tried 4.5 it would not work. Sometimes I could actually get to the stress test, but within a minute it would BSOD, other times Windows wouldn't even finish booting, so I dropped it back down to 4.4 again, and I can run prime95 for 24 hours and never have a problem. Temps are under control as well, never exceeding 65℃ (I am currently unable to install all of my rads in my case, waiting on an STH10 and a couple of 560's right now). So as with you, temps aren't the problem, but neither is voltage... Just got a weak overclocker it would seem. :-(

Regardless, it is interesting to me as well the differences with the reviews of the coolers, I am wondering if they are significantly warmer ambient temps that are causing the variance... I actually bought my TC14PE based on the review by MaximumPC, where they gave it a kick ass award. It was touted as the best cooler they had reviewed, and although my results were consistent with theirs, my H100 is still a bit cooler. Wondering if my be I just got a better than average H100...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Wondering if my be I just got a better than average H100...


I have found that lapping the cold plate of my various heatsinks can improve their heat transfer. Doing a poor job of it can make them worse. Perhaps some coolers are manufactured with more wiggle room on the cold plate finish. There's some debate about the best shape to use. Completely flat vs convex vs concave.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> He said 2 1300w psus wasnt enough so hes saying that 2600w isn't enough. Then he said he needed 2x 1500w so hes claiming it needs more than 2600 but less than 3000w.
> Your in Norway so I assume you have 220v power sockets? 16 amps 220 = 32 amps in 110. So if Electro is in the US its alot different. In the us a 1500w power supply will not work with the usual 15 amp breakers if its fully loaded.
> 
> 
> 
> House wiring in the U.S. Is 15 amp breaker for lights and 20 amp breaker for wall sockets. Watt = amp X voltage.
Click to expand...

not 100% true you can run 220v, as i am in the process of doing ( as soon as winter hits and i can afford time ) i will have 50a 220 going to my pcs !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I LOVED my PH-TC14PE!!! It was magnificent! That being said, it did not even touch the cooling power of my H100... I think that it would blow away any 80mm AIO available, but my temps were at least 15° higher on the Phanteks than my H100... I don't know how it fares on other CPU's, but that is roughly accurate for both my 3770K ([email protected]), and my 4930K ([email protected], I could only get to 4.3GHz on the Phanteks at the same temperatures...), and my custom loop blows away both of those, although that is a given...
> 
> 
> 
> Oh really? I wonder if the airflow of your case and/or your paste job were factors (not trying to be insulting) as the High Tech Legion review found that both the PH TC14PE and the NH D15 outperformed either an H100 or H110 in the review I referred to. In my Air 540 I see no greater than 50 C web browsing, watching moviea etc and no more than 55 to 60 C while gaming at 4.6 GHz with 1.4 v and peak temps of 80 C after half an hour of prime95. In the following video I am playing around with 4.7 GHz @ 1.45V on day two post build:
> 
> Mr. Vulcan's first PC Build Part 2: Acoustics, Ov&#8230;:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And heres that video showcasing the air cooler and the aftermarket fans for the person inquiring about air coolers for RIVBE. Long story short I had initially settled on the NH D15 right as it was coming out and cancelled my preorder the day before ot was to become available when I confirmed that it would indeed obstruct the firsr PCIE slot. Ended up.working out for the better as the phanteks offers comparable performance, looks better, and was $70 on sale through new egg vs. $110.
> 
> Mr. Vulcan's first PC Build Part 3: Pimp My PC:
Click to expand...

ill take water! ( not CLC loops will not own any excluding the switftech h-lineup )


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have found that lapping the cold plate of my various heatsinks can improve their heat transfer. Doing a poor job of it can make them worse. Perhaps some coolers are manufactured with more wiggle room on the cold plate finish. There's some debate about the best shape to use. Completely flat vs convex vs concave.


I had actually decided to do this as an experiment, on my my GPU's coolers - Arctic Cooling Accelero Hybrid (GTX 670 FTW [email protected],280mHZ), as well as my CPU's coolers - H100 (4930K [email protected])... I ran them as they came from the package, and then pulled them and lapped them, and ran them again, I found that temps had dropped ~6℃ on the GPU's, and ~5℃ on the CPU, and it allowed me to get a little extra out of the GPU's in terms of the overclock as well...


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Wow, running at 1.4v sucks! I initially had my 4930K running at 1.39xx at 4.5gHZ, but I just was not happy running at that high of a voltage, so I decided to reset the UEFI and start over, unfortunately for some reason I am not able to get back up to 4.5gHZ again, however, I was able get up to 4.4gHZ at 1.24v! The odd part of that, is that at 4.0gHZ I had to set the voltage there, and oddly it was running stable for every stress test from there to 4.4, but once I tried 4.5 it would not work. Sometimes I could actually get to the stress test, but within a minute it would BSOD, other times Windows wouldn't even finish booting, so I dropped it back down to 4.4 again, and I can run prime95 for 24 hours and never have a problem. Temps are under control as well, never exceeding 65℃ (I am currently unable to install all of my rads in my case, waiting on an STH10 and a couple of 560's right now). So as with you, temps aren't the problem, but neither is voltage... Just got a weak overclocker it would seem. :-(
> 
> Regardless, it is interesting to me as well the differences with the reviews of the coolers, I am wondering if they are significantly warmer ambient temps that are causing the variance... I actually bought my TC14PE based on the review by MaximumPC, where they gave it a kick ass award. It was touted as the best cooler they had reviewed, and although my results were consistent with theirs, my H100 is still a bit cooler. Wondering if my be I just got a better than average H100...


I am by no means an expert but if both Intel and [email protected] state that 1.4V is the maximum safe limit for 49XX then I am running right up to that limit (1.398V measured on the board). I do understand what youre saying though, if 1.4V is the maximum limit then it is a bit discomforting to know youre sitting right on the threshold 24/7. But again, I am running Offset voltage so it really only sees this voltage under adequate load, most of the time while gaming at 4.6Ghz Hwinfo64 is only reporting 1.376 (1.392V as reported by Hwinfo64 equates to 1.398V as measured on the motherboard).

Anyhow, I have everything completely maxed out:

CPU Current Capability: 180%
DRAM Current: 140% (optimized)
CPU VTT and VCCSA: 1.2V
DRAM Voltage: 1.675V
CPU PLL: 1.85V
CPU LLC: High
CPU Power Phase: Extreme
CPU Voltage Frequency: 500
Rampage Tweak: 3, "optimized for Ivy E"

If youre feeling bold again you could try some of the above and shoot for 4.6GHz. I'm willing to be the above will help as I also don't have a stellar overclocker.

As far as the variation in performance between the air coolers and Corsair's H100, ambient temperature could be a factor, but it may also be test equipment and case or lack thereof, for example there is no telling whether or not Linus Tech compared the two on an open bench or in a case as they are always showcasing components on the former. It's somewhat obvious but an air cooler will have a leg up on an AIO cooler on an open bench vs. a case as the advantage of the latter is that the actual heat exchange technically occurs outside the case (rad mounted at interface of interior and exterior). And I believe you and am impressed that the H100 is outperforming the air-cooler for your situation, that's mighty impressive, 65 C max under varied stress (Prime95 too?) is definitely note-worthy. You have some overhead to shoot for 4.6GHz with those temps, also don't forget that you could also loosen up your memory timings if you do decide to run an aggressive OC.

With 2 years and 8 months remaining on Intel's Tuning Plan I'm not exactly worried about prematurely frying my sample, after all it isn't exactly an exceptional performer.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not 100% true you can run 220v, as i am in the process of doing ( as soon as winter hits and i can afford time ) i will have 50a 220 going to my pcs !
> ill take water! ( not CLC loops will not own any excluding the switftech h-lineup )


So youre saying Swiftech's H lineup is the best in terms of AIO cooling solution? Can you attach GPU water-blocks to the Swiftech's or is it self contained like the Corsair units? I'm asking as will probably go with a custom loop if I'm still alive and can afford 980-1080 Ti / Titan 2 sometime next year or the year after and intend to stay there well into Pascal's life-cycle.....No point in adding waterblock's to my 780 Ti's now, although believe me I have pondered it nevertheless.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not 100% true you can run 220v, as i am in the process of doing ( as soon as winter hits and i can afford time ) i will have 50a 220 going to my pcs !
> ill take water! ( not CLC loops will not own any excluding the switftech h-lineup )
> 
> 
> 
> So youre saying Swiftech's H lineup is the best in terms of AIO cooling solution? Can you attach GPU water-blocks to the Swiftech's or is it self contained like the Corsair units? I'm asking as will probably go with a custom loop if I'm still alive and can afford 980-1080 Ti / Titan 2 sometime next year or the year after and intend to stay there well into Pascal's life-cycle.....No point in adding waterblock's to my 780 Ti's now, although believe me I have pondered it nevertheless.
Click to expand...

imo yes. For many reasons.

Yes they are expandable


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo yes. For many reasons.
> 
> Yes they are expandable


Wow cool, I will look into them, it kind of takes a lot of the work out of putting a custom loop together if I can simply place a 240mm (?) Swiftech unit in the ceiling of my Air 540 and attach water-blocks and my CPU to it (although this may not enough radiator surface area for all of it).

In fact you got me thinking about picking up some used EK water-blocks for my 780 Ti's, I bet I could buy them slightly used now that a lot of people have "upgraded" to 980 "Maxwell" (28nM doesn't qualify as Maxwell in my book).


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Okay, I'm just going to post it here and see what you guys think... I just finished my build this week and tried turning the power on. I'm using rigid wires on the R4BE and GPU, but that's probably irrelevant. When I flipped the switch, all I got was a few lights on the motherboard and the power button on the case. All the LED strips, and fans don't come on at all. I'm using a 1300watt PSU, and just one Titan, so I'm not sure what the problem is. If I disconnect the 24 pin connection from the mobo, and hotwire it with everything else still connected to their respective cables, everything turns on with no problem. My main goal is for everything to to turn on at the same time obviously, but that doesn't seem to happen. I thought maybe I might be missing something, but I don't think so. Both the 8-pin and 4-pin connected up top too, so I'm a little baffled.

Any thoughts on why this might be happening?

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG3093.jpg.html


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Okay, I'm just going to post it here and see what you guys think... I just finished my build this week and tried turning the power on. I'm using rigid wires on the R4BE and GPU, but that's probably irrelevant. When I flipped the switch, all I got was a few lights on the motherboard and the power button on the case. All the LED strips, and fans don't come on at all. I'm using a 1300watt PSU, and just one Titan, so I'm not sure what the problem is. If I disconnect the 24 pin connection from the mobo, and hotwire it with everything else still connected to their respective cables, everything turns on with no problem. My main goal is for everything to to turn on at the same time obviously, but that doesn't seem to happen. I thought maybe I might be missing something, but I don't think so. Both the 8-pin and 4-pin connected up top too, so I'm a little baffled.
> 
> Any thoughts on why this might be happening?
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG3093.jpg.html


Try taking your plugs off the mobo and short two pins of the 24 pin plug to see if the fans come on and the water pump is running.
If they dont come on, PSU bad, if they come on, problem with mobo like a short or something in backwards.
Short PS_ON with COM with a paper clip.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Try taking your plugs off the mobo and short two pins of the 24 pin plug to see if the fans come on and the water pump is running.
> If they dont come on, PSU bad, if they come on, problem with mobo like a short or something in backwards.
> Short PS_ON with COM with a paper clip.


When I say "hotwire the PSU", I'm referring to slipping a paperclip in the Short PS_ON and COM into the holes. So yeah, I did that already... When I do that without the 24-pin connected, everything turns on. With it connected, nothing turns on, including the PSU itself. That's the one important thing I completely forgot to mention in my last post. There is NO activity on the PSU when the 24-pin is plugged into the motherboard ... Meaning, the fan or LED lights don't turn on on the PSU at all. So, maybe you might be right in the sense that it might have something going on with a backwards wire. As for the PSU, it's pretty solid, with a Johnny Guru rating of 9 out of 10 (Rosewill Lightning 1300).


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> When I say "hotwire the PSU", I'm referring to slipping a paperclip in the Short PS_ON and COM into the holes. So yeah, I did that already... When I do that without the 24-pin connected, everything turns on. With it connected, nothing turns on, including the PSU itself. That's the one important thing I completely forgot to mention in my last post. There is NO activity on the PSU when the 24-pin is plugged into the motherboard ... Meaning, the fan or LED lights don't turn on on the PSU at all. So, maybe you might be right in the sense that it might have something going on with a backwards wire. As for the PSU, it's pretty solid, with a Johnny Guru rating of 9 out of 10 (Rosewill Lightning 1300).


Best guess is to start uplugging everything one-at-a-time and checking if the fans still work. If fans are powered by the mobo, leave one plugged in. Even take out the cpu just in case its bad. But before anything else, short the power on switch pins at the mobo to make sure you power on button works.
Thats how I would troubleshoot a mobo that wont turn on, good luck


----------



## electro2u

Did you run any wiring behind the motherboard that might be causing the board to be warped a bit ? I had that happen on my last build and I just loosened all the standoffs and pulled on the wires I had routed behind the motherboard (usb2, power/reset Hd audio) until I heard a creak and after that it worked.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Okay, I'm just going to post it here and see what you guys think... I just finished my build this week and tried turning the power on. I'm using rigid wires on the R4BE and GPU, but that's probably irrelevant. When I flipped the switch, all I got was a few lights on the motherboard and the power button on the case. All the LED strips, and fans don't come on at all. I'm using a 1300watt PSU, and just one Titan, so I'm not sure what the problem is. If I disconnect the 24 pin connection from the mobo, and hotwire it with everything else still connected to their respective cables, everything turns on with no problem. My main goal is for everything to to turn on at the same time obviously, but that doesn't seem to happen. I thought maybe I might be missing something, but I don't think so. Both the 8-pin and 4-pin connected up top too, so I'm a little baffled.
> 
> Any thoughts on why this might be happening?
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG3093.jpg.html


are you sure you wired it properly sounds to me like you may have a short, just happened to me acctually


----------



## shampoo911

Im having the same problem... Apparently, it happens only on Asus motherboards... Try reseatting firmly your 8+4pin CPU plug and the 24pin mobo plug...

I have a workaround for it... Sometimes, my system just shuts down without any reason... Any fan cooler plugged to the motherboard, cease functioning... And the q-led shows a FF code... I usually switch the master switch (the one on the psu) off, wait for All leds on the motherboard to go off, then unplug the 24pin cable... Turn the psu ON and plug the 24pin then turn on the system... It works... 100% sure it works... But it should not happen like that...

As i said, try reseatting the 8+4pin CPU plug and the 24pin mobo plug...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you sure you wired it properly sounds to me like you may have a short, just happened to me acctually


I just verified it a moment ago, and all of the 24 wires are aligned properly from the harness to the motherboard.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG3078.jpg.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you sure you wired it properly sounds to me like you may have a short, just happened to me acctually
> 
> 
> 
> I just verified it a moment ago, and all of the 24 wires are aligned properly from the harness to the motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG3078.jpg.html
Click to expand...

Assuming it is properly wired, no shorts, then perhaps it's just a bad connection at one of the connectors. It's not uncommon for terminals to not make a proper contact inside a connector even if nothing looks amiss, especially if there's extra set of extension connectors mid-way between the psu and whatever it's connected to. Disconnect, inspect, reconnect, maybe a light push of the wires into the connectors on either side.


----------



## LunaP

Dear god almost 2500 posts to catch up on in here, going to PM Alan as well seeing if I can add Skupples on for editor, need to skim through and find all the updated information and update everyone.


----------



## alancsalt

Only the member who posted and mods and above can edit posts. That's a software limitation. If you had a Google spreadsheet for membership you could invite others to be editors of that....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Only the member who posted and mods and above can edit posts. That's a software limitation. If you had a Google spreadsheet for membership you could invite others to be editors of that....


That works, I should be more active here now, things have finally calmed down on my end. Lots to go over tonight I guess lol.


----------



## friskiest

Nice to see you back Luna


----------



## Mega Man

+12

... when 1-11 are not enough


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I am by no means an expert but if both Intel and [email protected] state that 1.4V is the maximum safe limit for 49XX then I am running right up to that limit (1.398V measured on the board). I do understand what youre saying though, if 1.4V is the maximum limit then it is a bit discomforting to know youre sitting right on the threshold 24/7. But again, I am running Offset voltage so it really only sees this voltage under adequate load, most of the time while gaming at 4.6Ghz Hwinfo64 is only reporting 1.376 (1.392V as reported by Hwinfo64 equates to 1.398V as measured on the motherboard).
> 
> Anyhow, I have everything completely maxed out:
> 
> CPU Current Capability: 180%
> DRAM Current: 140% (optimized)
> CPU VTT and VCCSA: 1.2V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.675V
> CPU PLL: 1.85V
> CPU LLC: High
> CPU Power Phase: Extreme
> CPU Voltage Frequency: 500
> Rampage Tweak: 3, "optimized for Ivy E"
> 
> If youre feeling bold again you could try some of the above and shoot for 4.6GHz. I'm willing to be the above will help as I also don't have a stellar overclocker.
> 
> As far as the variation in performance between the air coolers and Corsair's H100, ambient temperature could be a factor, but it may also be test equipment and case or lack thereof, for example there is no telling whether or not Linus Tech compared the two on an open bench or in a case as they are always showcasing components on the former. It's somewhat obvious but an air cooler will have a leg up on an AIO cooler on an open bench vs. a case as the advantage of the latter is that the actual heat exchange technically occurs outside the case (rad mounted at interface of interior and exterior). And I believe you and am impressed that the H100 is outperforming the air-cooler for your situation, that's mighty impressive, 65 C max under varied stress (Prime95 too?) is definitely note-worthy. You have some overhead to shoot for 4.6GHz with those temps, also don't forget that you could also loosen up your memory timings if you do decide to run an aggressive OC.
> 
> With 2 years and 8 months remaining on Intel's Tuning Plan I'm not exactly worried about prematurely frying my sample, after all it isn't exactly an exceptional performer.


Personally, I am a bit of a scrooge when it comes to power, I am happy that I got to 4.5, I also had my CPU running at over 1.425v for a while, 1.4 isn't the 'maximum', it is more the threshold for lifespan, and from what I understand the closer you get to it the lower lifespan to expect, although that is just what I understand to be the 'rough' of it...


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Personally, I am a bit of a scrooge when it comes to power, I am happy that I got to 4.5, I also had my CPU running at over 1.425v for a while, 1.4 isn't the 'maximum', it is more the threshold for lifespan, and from what I understand the closer you get to it the lower lifespan to expect, although that is just what I understand to be the 'rough' of it...


Stop! Youre making me want to try for 4.7 again at 1.425V. But to be honest I think I am at that threshold where it takes seemingly exponentially more voltage to go up another 100MHz at 4.6; I'm not entirely confident I could reign in 4.7 at 1.425, I think that would require 1.45V.

How long were you running 1.425V? If someone came on here and said, "I've been running 1.425V or so for 2 years and haven't had any degradation in performance or failure" I would actually try for at least 4.65GHz. But on the other hand, Haswell E/X99 hasn't proven to be too enticing, so I am not eager to prematurely fry my X79 set up just yet. When DX12 becomes standardized at least I will be ready for that with the 4930, forking out $1k for 5960 for a marginal increase in performance also isn't exactly exciting. I'll probably just button it down here, if I keep screwing around trying to get 4.7GHz with inadequate voltage I am bound to break and have to repair Windows again.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Stop! Youre making me want to try for 4.7 again at 1.425V. But to be honest I think I am at that threshold where it takes seemingly exponentially more voltage to go up another 100MHz at 4.6; I'm not entirely confident I could reign in 4.7 at 1.425, I think that would require 1.45V.
> 
> How long were you running 1.425V? If someone came on here and said, "I've been running 1.425V or so for 2 years and haven't had any degradation in performance or failure" I would actually try for at least 4.65GHz. But on the other hand, Haswell E/X99 hasn't proven to be too enticing, so I am not eager to prematurely fry my X79 set up just yet. When DX12 becomes standardized at least I will be ready for that with the 4930, forking out $1k for 5960 for a marginal increase in performance also isn't exactly exciting. I'll probably just button it down here, if I keep screwing around trying to get 4.7GHz with inadequate voltage I am bound to break and have to repair Windows again.


HAHA! I think you should very much avoid going any higher if you aren't looking to fry anything... As for my 1.425 snafu... I was attempting to get offset voltage right, and I was just not focused, in the middle of the night and very, very tired, and I kept thinking it was a positive offset, and could not figure out why it was so high... lol In total, I ran it for probably 45 mins like that.

I too, am not terribly excited about the Haswell-E update, it really hasn't done anything exceptional, but then again, we are really pushing the limits of Moore's law right now, so I do not expect to see anything exciting for at least a few years... That being said, the Maxwell release from Nvidia, certainly does have me drooling over a couple of 907's!!! I really have never justified purchasing a top tier card, always one down since it is the sweet spot, 90% the performance for 65% the price, I'm on! However, after seeing how dual 670's are on par with a single 980, it has me kind of in a toss up... On one hand, there is a slight power savings (for me, with two cards, probably save about $8/month on my electric bill), on the other hand, I would need two 970's to outperform my current rig... I could certainly keep my current rig until the next update, and see how that feels, but then again that is at least another year out... Meh... I'll probably jump on board in a couple months.. lol


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> HAHA! I think you should very much avoid going any higher if you aren't looking to fry anything... As for my 1.425 snafu... I was attempting to get offset voltage right, and I was just not focused, in the middle of the night and very, very tired, and I kept thinking it was a positive offset, and could not figure out why it was so high... lol In total, I ran it for probably 45 mins like that.
> 
> I too, am not terribly excited about the Haswell-E update, it really hasn't done anything exceptional, but then again, we are really pushing the limits of Moore's law right now, so I do not expect to see anything exciting for at least a few years... That being said, the Maxwell release from Nvidia, certainly does have me drooling over a couple of 907's!!! I really have never justified purchasing a top tier card, always one down since it is the sweet spot, 90% the performance for 65% the price, I'm on! However, after seeing how dual 670's are on par with a single 980, it has me kind of in a toss up... On one hand, there is a slight power savings (for me, with two cards, probably save about $8/month on my electric bill), on the other hand, I would need two 970's to outperform my current rig... I could certainly keep my current rig until the next update, and see how that feels, but then again that is at least another year out... Meh... I'll probably jump on board in a couple months.. lol


Yeah first-gen Maxwell is offering 780 Ti/Titan performance at 65% of the cost. If you had at least a pair of 780's I would say wait for 22nM Maxwell, presumably out next year, but considering youre on 670 SLI I say if your budget allows, a single Gigabyte 980 G1 Gaming with a healthy OC ought to demolish your 670's at 15.5k GPU in Firstrike:

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/gigabyte_geforce_gtx_980_g1_gaming_review,26.html

Personally, If I couldn't wait for 22nM Maxwell I would pick up this card over 970 SLI, there are still a few stalwart titles where SLI is partially broken (Titanfall 3D Vision, does anyone still play this garbage?) and if you need more performance 2x 980 SLI > 3x 970 SLI due to the scaling with total cost remaining comparable.

Oh and 4GB of VRAM is nice. But the question is, do you really NEED to upgrade now? For me, having recently discovered Nvidia 3D Vision, I am so happy that I have 780 Ti SLI as quite a few of the recent titles keep utilization between 70 and 98% nearly constant at 1440p on the Swift. I can't imagine trying to run these games with even 780 SLI, let alone 680 or 670 SLI. But again, 3D is extremely demanding. I imagine aside from the 2GB VRAM limitation 670 SLI can manage even recent titles on a 60Hz 1080p display with all graphical settings maxed.

If you CAN wait, 980-1080 Ti/ Titan 2 on 22nM will probably be 50% faster than 980....and that's only the reference model, non-reference might be 60-70% faster than reference 980...

Anyhow, I'm LOVING the 3D, definitely NOT a gimmick, try the latest Tomb Raider in 3D, you will never wan't to play anything in 2D EVER AGAIN, it's that good. Oh and 3D community is working on getting Alien: Isolation working and The Witcher 3, Batman: Arkham Knight, Project Cars and LOTR: Shadow of Mordor should be and already are 3D compatible. But you need a real stout system to run 3D, to render 60 FPS 3D your hardware needs to essentially process 120Hz as each eye needs to see a different image. I believe this might be why the 3D community isn't very large, as I can assure you, if you have adequate hardware, the 3D is STUNNING. Imagine running AC4: Black Flag, Batman: AC, Tomb Raider, Crysis 3 etc. completely maxed out at 2560x1440 at 120Hz (60 FPS 3D), that's what my system has been capable of and again I am glad I have nothing less than 780 Ti SLI. Bench in sig.


----------



## Mega Man

meh ill just wait for amd to crush nvidia ( again ) with 390xs


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> meh ill just wait for amd to crush nvidia ( again ) with 390xs


Yeah but you won't have Hairworks 

http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/articles/gamescom-2014-witcher-3-gameworks

But seriously, I'm finding that many have stayed with or moved to Nvidia for the 3D Vision, PhysX, G-Sync and overall better support for titles aside (ahem, Watch Dogs).

To be clear, I am NOT an Nvidia fan boy, if there was no competition, principally AMD, Nvidia would run roughshod over us with mediocre products at premium prices. AMD has forced Nvidia to innovate and refine their products and the results are amazing; its absolutely mind-blowing to see 2x 980 SLI offering better performance than R9 295x R2 with even 3x 980 SLI consuming less power (470W vs 505W) and with 3x 980 SLI offering comparable performance to 3x Titan SLI at nearly half the power consumption!

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_980_sli_review,4.html


----------



## supermiguel

Can i be added?










and can i get extra points for big mess?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Yeah first-gen Maxwell is offering 780 Ti/Titan performance at 65% of the cost. If you had at least a pair of 780's I would say wait for 22nM Maxwell, presumably out next year, but considering youre on 670 SLI I say if your budget allows, a single Gigabyte 980 G1 Gaming with a healthy OC ought to demolish your 670's at 15.5k GPU in Firstrike:
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/gigabyte_geforce_gtx_980_g1_gaming_review,26.html
> 
> Personally, If I couldn't wait for 22nM Maxwell I would pick up this card over 970 SLI, there are still a few stalwart titles where SLI is partially broken (Titanfall 3D Vision, does anyone still play this garbage?) and if you need more performance 2x 980 SLI > 3x 970 SLI due to the scaling with total cost remaining comparable.
> 
> Oh and 4GB of VRAM is nice. But the question is, do you really NEED to upgrade now? For me, having recently discovered Nvidia 3D Vision, I am so happy that I have 780 Ti SLI as quite a few of the recent titles keep utilization between 70 and 98% nearly constant at 1440p on the Swift. I can't imagine trying to run these games with even 780 SLI, let alone 680 or 670 SLI. But again, 3D is extremely demanding. I imagine aside from the 2GB VRAM limitation 670 SLI can manage even recent titles on a 60Hz 1080p display with all graphical settings maxed.
> 
> If you CAN wait, 980-1080 Ti/ Titan 2 on 22nM will probably be 50% faster than 980....and that's only the reference model, non-reference might be 60-70% faster than reference 980...
> 
> Anyhow, I'm LOVING the 3D, definitely NOT a gimmick, try the latest Tomb Raider in 3D, you will never wan't to play anything in 2D EVER AGAIN, it's that good. Oh and 3D community is working on getting Alien: Isolation working and The Witcher 3, Batman: Arkham Knight, Project Cars and LOTR: Shadow of Mordor should be and already are 3D compatible. But you need a real stout system to run 3D, to render 60 FPS 3D your hardware needs to essentially process 120Hz as each eye needs to see a different image. I believe this might be why the 3D community isn't very large, as I can assure you, if you have adequate hardware, the 3D is STUNNING. Imagine running AC4: Black Flag, Batman: AC, Tomb Raider, Crysis 3 etc. completely maxed out at 2560x1440 at 120Hz (60 FPS 3D), that's what my system has been capable of and again I am glad I have nothing less than 780 Ti SLI. Bench in sig.


As much as I have wanted to run all of the goodies, such as 3D Vision, g-sync, nvidia surround, etc. etc. Unfortunately I just don't have the budget that would allow me to buy the monitors necessary.. Especially since I am a multimonitor guy.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> As much as I have wanted to run all of the goodies, such as 3D Vision, g-sync, nvidia surround, etc. etc. Unfortunately I just don't have the budget that would allow me to buy the monitors necessary.. Especially since I am a multimonitor guy.


Something better than ROG Swift might come out soon at which point you should be able to find them slightly used for a lot less than $800 or Asus might actually bring the price down to $600 next year once demand subsides... But yeah 3x Swift will run you ~$2k...But then you will need at least 3x non-reference 980's to run games at 2560x1440 surround, and 3D surround may be unrealistic, at least until 22nM Maxwell or Pascal.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Has anyone resolved their post code 00 errors without rma'ing their board? I figure I have an expensive paper weight now since I cut off the pipe to install a monoblock. Worked for couple months on soft tubing. Went to acrylic and worked for two days. Already reseated cpu multiple times.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Something better than ROG Swift might come out soon at which point you should be able to find them slightly used for a lot less than $800 or Asus might actually bring the price down to $600 next year once demand subsides... But yeah 3x Swift will run you ~$2k...But then you will need at least 3x non-reference 980's to run games at 2560x1440 surround, and 3D surround may be unrealistic, at least until 22nM Maxwell or Pascal.


Go ahead, call me a glutton for punishment, or ream me for spending thousands on hardware and chewping out of my monitors, but I am really a $2-300 monitor guy, I have seen the greatest of monitors in person, and frankly, even if I had the money to blow a was of $1,300 on a single monitor, it just wouldn't happen, I love the best stuff as much as the next guy, burning just don't have a high 'value scale' for monitors...

I really wish I did, I also wish that I cared enough to run monitors with higher resolutions that full hd, but it just isn't worth it to me, I get 60fps at 1080P, and that is more than a console gamer can consistently say I suppose...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Has anyone resolved their post code 00 errors without rma'ing their board? I figure I have an expensive paper weight now since I cut off the pipe to install a monoblock. Worked for couple months on soft tubing. Went to acrylic and worked for two days. Already reseated cpu multiple times.


Try reflashing the bios








Majority of this error code is bios / bios chip ( mainly RIVE R4F ) related BUT 00 can also be a borked cpu . Or a unstable o/c


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Go ahead, call me a glutton for punishment, or ream me for spending thousands on hardware and chewping out of my monitors, but I am really a $2-300 monitor guy, I have seen the greatest of monitors in person, and frankly, even if I had the money to blow a was of $1,300 on a single monitor, it just wouldn't happen, I love the best stuff as much as the next guy, burning just don't have a high 'value scale' for monitors...
> 
> I really wish I did, I also wish that I cared enough to run monitors with higher resolutions that full hd, but it just isn't worth it to me, I get 60fps at 1080P, and that is more than a console gamer can consistently say I suppose...


Dude once you see the Swift in action, particularly in 3D or with G-Sync, I can almost guarantee you will be forking out money for one. Oh and I take it youre running 3x 670 SLI? Any benches?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Dude once you see the Swift in action, particularly in 3D or with G-Sync, I can almost guarantee you will be forking out money for one. Oh and I take it youre running 3x 670 SLI? Any benches?


Fair enough, I can admit that I haven't seen g-sync, but frankly, with the VESA alternative, I am reluctant to commit to a proprietary technology if I do not have to...

That being said, in the last two months alone I have spent $400 on a 4930K, $530 on an STH10, and several hundred more on liquid cooling components, so spending more on anything is going to be a little while... As much as I would like to buy three new panels, I am really not ready to dump $2,400 on three new 27" panels... 

I am actually running 2 cards. I have them overclocked admirably though, 1,280MHz, still cool, and rock solid! I really feel I won the lottery with these cards, a ~30% overclock feels insane!!!


----------



## SDMODNoob

Ya... thanks for the tip
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Try reflashing the bios
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Majority of this error code is bios / bios chip ( mainly RIVE R4F ) related BUT 00 can also be a borked cpu . Or a unstable o/c


Ya already reflashed bios. I am hoping its the CPU because at least I can get that replaced.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Fair enough, I can admit that I haven't seen g-sync, but frankly, with the VESA alternative, I am reluctant to commit to a proprietary technology if I do not have to...
> 
> That being said, in the last two months alone I have spent $400 on a 4930K, $530 on an STH10, and several hundred more on liquid cooling components, so spending more on anything is going to be a little while... As much as I would like to buy three new panels, I am really not ready to dump $2,400 on three new 27" panels...
> 
> I am actually running 2 cards. I have them overclocked admirably though, 1,280MHz, still cool, and rock solid! I really feel I won the lottery with these cards, a ~30% overclock feels insane!!!


I hear you, $800 for this monitor is bonkers x1. 1280MHz is pretty impressive, are they reference? Yeah you should still be able to play most games until 980 Ti or Pascal, only real limiting factor is the 2GB of VRAM. I'm also feeling the VRAM squeeze with 3GB; "The Evil Within" stating 4GB required for optimal experience. I thought this trend would end with Watch Dogs and Titanfall, which are both garbage console ports.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> I hear you, $800 for this monitor is bonkers x1. 1280MHz is pretty impressive, are they reference? Yeah you should still be able to play most games until 980 Ti or Pascal, only real limiting factor is the 2GB of VRAM. I'm also feeling the VRAM squeeze with 3GB; "The Evil Within" stating 4GB required for optimal experience. I thought this trend would end with Watch Dogs and Titanfall, which are both garbage console ports.


Yeah, the 2GB VRAM is a pain. They are actuall FTW cards, so they are reference 680 PCB. That is indeed one of the driving factors for me, I am burning up for GTA V, and I am concerned that with how terribly GTA IV runs (compared to even newer games), I am going to have problems with GTA V... So I am probably just going to save up until mid-January and pick up a couple of 970's then... Unfortunately, buying the cards isn't really the problem, it is that each card will cost me an addition $130 for a waterblock... So I figure if I wait I might find a used one or two on here, which would obviously save me some coins...


----------



## dboythagr8

Ok so I am going to start the process of OC'ing my 4930k again. I gave it 1.37v, manual vcore, but in CPU-z it shows 1.392v? I'm not using offset so why is that. Vcore was the ONLY thing I've changed besides setting memory to xmp.


----------



## Mega Man

are you using manual or offset ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> meh ill just wait for amd to crush nvidia ( again ) with 390xs











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Can i be added?
> 
> " SNIP "
> 
> and can i get extra points for big mess?


That's a MAD case and yes xtras








Heres mine

Chillers and A/C









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> As much as I have wanted to run all of the goodies, such as 3D Vision, g-sync, nvidia surround, etc. etc. Unfortunately I just don't have the budget that would allow me to buy the monitors necessary.. Especially since I am a multimonitor guy.


Im done upgrading ........... sidegrading

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Ya... thanks for the tip
> Ya already reflashed bios. I am hoping its the CPU because at least I can get that replaced.


I hope you work it out ......... is your ram running stock speeds ??


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Ok so I am going to start the process of OC'ing my 4930k again. I gave it 1.37v, manual vcore, but in CPU-z it shows 1.932v? I'm not using offset so why is that. Vcore was the ONLY thing I've changed besides setting memory to xmp.


Have you checked the voltage points on the board? Additionally, have you tried any other software to see your voltage?


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you using manual or offset ?


manual
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Have you checked the voltage points on the board? Additionally, have you tried any other software to see your voltage?


voltage points on the board...no? I would have zero use for them and don't even know where they are located. I have just used CPU-Z. So somewhere in BIOS other than the manual vcore setting, more voltage is being added. Is there an additional setting I could possibly be missing that I need to disable?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> manual
> voltage points on the board...no? I would have zero use for them and don't even know where they are located. I have just used CPU-Z. So somewhere in BIOS other than the manual vcore setting, more voltage is being added. Is there an additional setting I could possibly be missing that I need to disable?


You say that you would have zero use for them, but this is a perfect example of exactly why they are there, and why they are useful.  You can put a multimeter (if you have one anyway) on them and see if the voltage that is actually going to the CPU matches what you are seeing in software.  I would urge you to use more than just one piece of software, because I use three different ones and not a single one of the is right.  None of them match the readouts from the board...


----------



## reev3r

Right now, for example, they are each of them significantly different...

CPU-z is 0.816
CoreTemp is 1.121
AiSuite is 1.084

Which one is correct?

That being said, I could be wrong, but if your CPU was actually at 1.9v, you would see smoke pouring out of your exhaust fans...


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Last i heard asuite is extremely unreliable.

Personally i have aida 64 extreme so far its been reliable.

Also i have heard having 2 programs that read voltage on at the same time will throw up wierd numbers


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> You say that you would have zero use for them, but this is a perfect example of exactly why they are there, and why they are useful.  You can put a multimeter (if you have one anyway) on them and see if the voltage that is actually going to the CPU matches what you are seeing in software.  I would urge you to use more than just one piece of software, because I use three different ones and not a single one of the is right.  None of them match the readouts from the board...


ah ok I gotcha, I misunderstood your previous post.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Right now, for example, they are each of them significantly different...
> 
> CPU-z is 0.816
> CoreTemp is 1.121
> AiSuite is 1.084
> 
> Which one is correct?
> 
> That being said, I could be wrong, but if your CPU was actually at 1.9v, you would see smoke pouring out of your exhaust fans...


edit: oh and the read is saying *1.392v* NOT 1.92v even though I have it set at 1.37v using manual in BIOS. I corrected that mistake


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> ah ok I gotcha, I misunderstood your previous post.


Hmm... That seems to happen to me very often, I wonder what I am doing wrong... lol. I know I am an odd one, but I try to be as specific as possible so as to avoid misunderstandings, but I am often at the receiving end of yelling because I am so frequently misunderstood... lol Good thing this isn't a psychology website, because my INTP (Meyers-Briggs Typology Intake- I strongly urge EVERYONE take it!!!) tendencies really do shine through... 
That being said, if you need any help with taking those measurements, just let me know.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> ah ok I gotcha, I misunderstood your previous post.
> edit: oh and the read is saying *1.392v* NOT 1.92v even though I have it set at 1.37v using manual in BIOS. I corrected that mistake


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> ah ok I gotcha, I misunderstood your previous post.
> edit: oh and the read is saying *1.392v* NOT 1.92v even though I have it set at 1.37v using manual in BIOS. I corrected that mistake


Okay, THAT makes sense then. I would not be too worried about that deviance. My voltages never read at what I set them. Doesn't matter which software or if I am at the check points on the board, there is always some deviance. I personally do not know why, but I am certain that someone has that answer.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Yeah, the 2GB VRAM is a pain. They are actuall FTW cards, so they are reference 680 PCB. That is indeed one of the driving factors for me, I am burning up for GTA V, and I am concerned that with how terribly GTA IV runs (compared to even newer games), I am going to have problems with GTA V... So I am probably just going to save up until mid-January and pick up a couple of 970's then... Unfortunately, buying the cards isn't really the problem, it is that each card will cost me an addition $130 for a waterblock... So I figure if I wait I might find a used one or two on here, which would obviously save me some coins...


Wait, I thought youre running an AIO cooler at the moment? If you don't already have a loop I would pick up a pair of Gigabyte 970 G1 Gaming' and be done with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> manual
> voltage points on the board...no? I would have zero use for them and don't even know where they are located. I have just used CPU-Z. So somewhere in BIOS other than the manual vcore setting, more voltage is being added. Is there an additional setting I could possibly be missing that I need to disable?


The board contacts are conveniently located on the front of the board near the 24-pin power connector with ground at the top and VCore right below it. Measuring what kind of voltage youre getting on the board is actually very important, let me relay my experience. At one point I was running "Very High" CPU LLC and monitoring programs, both AI Suite 3 and Hwinfo64, were'nt/don't account for any LLC discrepancy. They were both reporting 1.392-1.4v, but taking a multimeter to the board was showing a difference of .03V higher!

Point is, you may think youre at a certain voltage as reported by programs such as CPU-Z and the aforementioned two but if your LLC is anything higher than "High" there can be quite a discrepancy. Even now, with LLC turned down to "High" voltage shown in Hwinfo64 is 1.392v peak under load but is actually 1.398v on the board.

Having the voltage contacts neatly organized and marked on the front of the board is actually one of RIVBE's notable features as heretofore one had to first find out what contacts were what and go throught he hassle of partially dismantling their case to access them on the back of the mobo (hence the purpose of the square cut-out in the case-wall your mobo is mounted on to).

I picked up my digital multi-meter from Radio Shack for $40, a very important investment, especially if you wan't to push your CPU to the voltage limit while not actually, unknowingly, being .03V beyond it, i.e. 1.43v vs. 1.4V.

More on the importance of understanding LLC and measuring it on the board:

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/24019-load-line-calibration-why-overclockers-should-care/


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Wait, I thought youre running an AIO cooler at the moment? If you don't already have a loop I would pick up a pair of Gigabyte 970 G1 Gaming' and be done with it.


Oh... My apologies... I was running three AIO units, a single H100 for the CPU, and then two Arctic Cooling Accelero Hybrid units for the 670's, however, those were a mess, and I KNEW that I could do better with a custom loop, I was just reluctant to do so after my "Jacob's custom-custom homemade block/radiator loop" back in 2002... I made a loop from some copper plate I bought, and soldered some channels into the center, in an effort to increase the surface area, I then soldered it into a block, and soldered a couple of fittings on it, and zip-tied those on. I used a bilge pump for a, well, for a whatever, I guess... lol I then used about 25ft of copper tubing, and made a coil that was about 3ft tall, and had a very large 120v AC (probably ~300mm in size) fan that I fashioned into a nice metal box, just blowing up the coil from the bottom. It worked FANTASTICALLY!!! Unfortunately the biggest caveat, was the bilge pump, since it had to sit in a bucket that I had drilled holes into and sealed to prevent evaporation, it was large, and somewhat loud (Not terribly so, I mean, it wasn't any louder than the 80mm case fans were back then...). It just wasn't terribly convenient, and it was a bear to move anywhere, since I had to disconnect it at the bucket/reservoir/pump fitting, and cap the ends of both the tubing and pump, and then I had to carry a 1/2 full 5-gallon bucket anytime I went to a LAN party (all the rage back then... lol) I do remember how 'awesome' I was though, getting flak for having to haul around my bucket and 3ft tall coil with my rig, but my overclocks were fantastic, and it was waaaay quieter than anybody else's rig (that was overclocked anyway). Although, I did lose the 'awesome' title when my friend Eric showed up with the Geforce 3 Ti that his girlfriend got him as a birthday/Christmas gift... Anyhow, back to the water cooling fiasco, at some point my sweet 'Jacob-made' water block failed! I was using a 350GPH bilge pump, and it quickly sprayed 2.5 gallons of water all over my room! Fortunately, however, not a single drop got on the electronics. How this happened, I've no idea, but I do know that my side panel was off, and the block failed in such a way that there was a very tight jet of water streaming out, and it just shot directly out of the case across my room. So the computer ran fine for several minutes, until the block heated up enough to sound the alarm, which is what got my attention to the whole thing. I was not in the room to see exactly how long it ran, but I could see that it was at least ~10 mins, given the temperature curve of the graph.

So, that having happened is what made me never want to do water cooling again! However, with my overclocking tendencies, and the progress that has been made in the water cooling arena in the last ~15 years, I decided to give it a go once again. So yeah, I would need to buy new blocks for any graphics cards I went with. Granted, I could run them on air initially, until I felt comfortable spending the money on blocks, but right now I am not terribly concerned, really. As previously stated, I am planning to either go crazy on Black Friday/Cyber Monday, or just save up until January, and hopefully prices will come down a little... What I really should have done, is sold both cards back in July before I bought the blocks, but I was not expecting such a leap in the cards they released, not only with the amazing power requirements of the cards, but also the INCREDIBLE overclockability of those monsters! I read somewhere someone got their 980 up to ~1,600MHz!!! I see the 670's running up around 1,500MHz!!! It is just crazy! a 50% overclock on a GPU!!! WHAT THE CRAP?!!?! lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> The board contacts are conveniently located on the front of the board near the 24-pin power connector with ground at the top and VCore right below it. Measuring what kind of voltage youre getting on the board is actually very important, let me relay my experience. At one point I was running "Very High" CPU LLC and monitoring programs, both AI Suite 3 and Hwinfo64, were'nt/don't account for any LLC discrepancy. They were both reporting 1.392-1.4v, but taking a multimeter to the board was showing a difference of .03V higher!
> 
> Point is, you may think youre at a certain voltage as reported by programs such as CPU-Z and the aforementioned two but if your LLC is anything higher than "High" there can be quite a discrepancy. Even now, with LLC turned down to "High" voltage shown in Hwinfo64 is 1.392v peak under load but is actually 1.398v on the board.
> 
> Having the voltage contacts neatly organized and marked on the front of the board is actually one of RIVBE's notable features as heretofore one had to first find out what contacts were what and go throught he hassle of partially dismantling their case to access them on the back of the mobo (hence the purpose of the square cut-out in the case-wall your mobo is mounted on to).
> 
> I picked up my digital multi-meter from Radio Shack for $40, a very important investment, especially if you wan't to push your CPU to the voltage limit while not actually, unknowingly, being .03V beyond it, i.e. 1.43v vs. 1.4V.
> 
> More on the importance of understanding LLC and measuring it on the board:
> 
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/24019-load-line-calibration-why-overclockers-should-care/


I mean no offense, I simply wanted to add (just because I am relatively poor, and I try to save money for me, and others when/where I can), you can go to Home Depot/Menards or even Amazon, and get a multimeter that will read these voltages with a sufficient accuracy. My only reason for adding that is simply that if you are not planning to use it for anything requiring high precision, or high voltages, and/or if you do not need any of the added features of the higher end units. I would say just get the cheapest (name brand - IMPORTANT) unit that will suit your needs, which will usually be ~$20, give or take...

I was thinking to make a single, minor correction though, if you even want to call it a correction, as I could be completely INcorrect about it... I am pretty confident that the open area on the motherboard tray behind the CPU is specifically for being able to add an aftermarket CPU cooler without the removal of the motherboard from the case... Since most sockets require you to have access to the rear of the motherboard for the mounting mechanism, in order to replace the stock rear CPU backplate, which is one of the advantages of LGA2011 (Socket R), is that it has a universal backplate...

Once again, I could be incorrect, but that is the impression I was under at least. Also, I have never actually heard of anybody measuring the voltages on the back of the motherboard... Not a bad idea... I definitely am now wishing I had known of this many years ago! I always wanted to do so, I just never had the confidence (or case, I suppose) in order to do so...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Nice to see you back Luna


Thanks

Also update, I'm gonna take the names on the OP and put them into a Google Spreadsheet since obviously the list is gonna get pretty damn long anyways. Going to add Skupples and a few others that have been here a while so that we can keep the list up to date as well as new information. I think this is probably the best choice.

Lots of information and still going through the pages.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I hope you work it out ......... is your ram running stock speeds ??


Ya turned everything down to stock again resetting cmos. My replacement CPU came in today and still post 00 and the fans don't spin up that are connected to the mobo. I am thinking my board has fried now... What do you guys think would be the best option at this point? There is no way in returning it in its current condition with the heatpipe cut off right? Only option would be to buy a new board now?


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Ya turned everything down to stock again resetting cmos. My replacement CPU came in today and still post 00 and the fans don't spin up that are connected to the mobo. I am thinking my board has fried now... What do you guys think would be the best option at this point? There is no way in returning it in its current condition with the heatpipe cut off right? Only option would be to buy a new board now?


If I'm not wrong, @LaBestiaHumana mentioned in his log about fabricating a new heatpipe for the board, perhaps he is willing to share his knowledge?

If that's out of the question, you could try looking for a refurbished/spoilt board online and use that for parts.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Ya turned everything down to stock again resetting cmos. My replacement CPU came in today and still post 00 and the fans don't spin up that are connected to the mobo. I am thinking my board has fried now... What do you guys think would be the best option at this point? There is no way in returning it in its current condition with the heatpipe cut off right? Only option would be to buy a new board now?


Did you test the board before cutting off the heat pipe? If the board was damaged somehow and needs to be RMAd you could possibly replace the heatsink assembly. As it so happens, I need to cut/remove mine for a monoblock install. We could trade. Pm me if you are interested.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Oh... My apologies... I was running three AIO units, a single H100 for the CPU, and then two Arctic Cooling Accelero Hybrid units for the 670's, however, those were a mess, and I KNEW that I could do better with a custom loop, I was just reluctant to do so after my "Jacob's custom-custom homemade block/radiator loop" back in 2002... I made a loop from some copper plate I bought, and soldered some channels into the center, in an effort to increase the surface area, I then soldered it into a block, and soldered a couple of fittings on it, and zip-tied those on. I used a bilge pump for a, well, for a whatever, I guess... lol I then used about 25ft of copper tubing, and made a coil that was about 3ft tall, and had a very large 120v AC (probably ~300mm in size) fan that I fashioned into a nice metal box, just blowing up the coil from the bottom. It worked FANTASTICALLY!!! Unfortunately the biggest caveat, was the bilge pump, since it had to sit in a bucket that I had drilled holes into and sealed to prevent evaporation, it was large, and somewhat loud (Not terribly so, I mean, it wasn't any louder than the 80mm case fans were back then...). It just wasn't terribly convenient, and it was a bear to move anywhere, since I had to disconnect it at the bucket/reservoir/pump fitting, and cap the ends of both the tubing and pump, and then I had to carry a 1/2 full 5-gallon bucket anytime I went to a LAN party (all the rage back then... lol) I do remember how 'awesome' I was though, getting flak for having to haul around my bucket and 3ft tall coil with my rig, but my overclocks were fantastic, and it was waaaay quieter than anybody else's rig (that was overclocked anyway). Although, I did lose the 'awesome' title when my friend Eric showed up with the Geforce 3 Ti that his girlfriend got him as a birthday/Christmas gift... Anyhow, back to the water cooling fiasco, at some point my sweet 'Jacob-made' water block failed! I was using a 350GPH bilge pump, and it quickly sprayed 2.5 gallons of water all over my room! Fortunately, however, not a single drop got on the electronics. How this happened, I've no idea, but I do know that my side panel was off, and the block failed in such a way that there was a very tight jet of water streaming out, and it just shot directly out of the case across my room. So the computer ran fine for several minutes, until the block heated up enough to sound the alarm, which is what got my attention to the whole thing. I was not in the room to see exactly how long it ran, but I could see that it was at least ~10 mins, given the temperature curve of the graph.
> 
> So, that having happened is what made me never want to do water cooling again! However, with my overclocking tendencies, and the progress that has been made in the water cooling arena in the last ~15 years, I decided to give it a go once again. So yeah, I would need to buy new blocks for any graphics cards I went with. Granted, I could run them on air initially, until I felt comfortable spending the money on blocks, but right now I am not terribly concerned, really. As previously stated, I am planning to either go crazy on Black Friday/Cyber Monday, or just save up until January, and hopefully prices will come down a little... What I really should have done, is sold both cards back in July before I bought the blocks, but I was not expecting such a leap in the cards they released, not only with the amazing power requirements of the cards, but also the INCREDIBLE overclockability of those monsters! I read somewhere someone got their 980 up to ~1,600MHz!!! I see the 670's running up around 1,500MHz!!! It is just crazy! a 50% overclock on a GPU!!! WHAT THE CRAP?!!?! lol
> I mean no offense, I simply wanted to add (just because I am relatively poor, and I try to save money for me, and others when/where I can), you can go to Home Depot/Menards or even Amazon, and get a multimeter that will read these voltages with a sufficient accuracy. My only reason for adding that is simply that if you are not planning to use it for anything requiring high precision, or high voltages, and/or if you do not need any of the added features of the higher end units. I would say just get the cheapest (name brand - IMPORTANT) unit that will suit your needs, which will usually be ~$20, give or take...
> 
> I was thinking to make a single, minor correction though, if you even want to call it a correction, as I could be completely INcorrect about it... I am pretty confident that the open area on the motherboard tray behind the CPU is specifically for being able to add an aftermarket CPU cooler without the removal of the motherboard from the case... Since most sockets require you to have access to the rear of the motherboard for the mounting mechanism, in order to replace the stock rear CPU backplate, which is one of the advantages of LGA2011 (Socket R), is that it has a universal backplate...
> 
> Once again, I could be incorrect, but that is the impression I was under at least. Also, I have never actually heard of anybody measuring the voltages on the back of the motherboard... Not a bad idea... I definitely am now wishing I had known of this many years ago! I always wanted to do so, I just never had the confidence (or case, I suppose) in order to do so...


Wow, that is incredible that you actually built your own custom water cooler with copper tubing, a bucket and a bilge pump and even had to weld parts of it. This sounds like some serious fabrication, did you get the idea from somewhere or was it all your own creation? And you did this 15 years ago? Damn dude, youve been doing this for a while!

Yeah Maxwell-Lite (still 28nM) is showing a fairly impressive jump in performance for certain cards, i.e. 680M to 980M and GTX 670 to GTX 980. But the gap between 780 Ti/Titan and GTX 980 is only around 10%.

I have an Alienware M18x R2 that has one of its 680M's going out (wont overclock) and I am absolutely blown away that 980M is as fast as 680M SLI, has 8GB VRAM, and doesn't consume more power than 680M. I've seen a 980M SLI Firestrike bench of 18.5k GPU on default clocks. It's 80% as fast as GTX 980, or another way to think of it, 90% as fast as reference 780 Ti yet only consuming maybe 100-150W.

Yeah I think youre right about the cutout behind the motherboard, I simply assumed it was for measuring voltage, it most definitely is to facilitate the removal of CPU mounting hardware without having to remove the motherboard from the case.

Don't worry I didn't forget about helping you with the OC Panel, I will try to get to it tomorrow.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Wow, that is incredible that you actually built your own custom water cooler with copper tubing, a bucket and a bilge pump and even had to weld parts of it. This sounds like some serious fabrication, did you get the idea from somewhere or was it all your own creation? And you did this 15 years ago? Damn dude, youve been doing this for a while!
> 
> Yeah Maxwell-Lite (still 28nM) is showing a fairly impressive jump in performance for certain cards, i.e. 680M to 980M and GTX 670 to GTX 980. But the gap between 780 Ti/Titan and GTX 980 is only around 10%.
> 
> I have an Alienware M18x R2 that has one of its 680M's going out (wont overclock) and I am absolutely blown away that 980M is as fast as 680M SLI, has 8GB VRAM, and doesn't consume more power than 680M. I've seen a 980M SLI Firestrike bench of 18.5k GPU on default clocks. It's 80% as fast as GTX 980, or another way to think of it, 90% as fast as reference 780 Ti yet only consuming maybe 100-150W.
> 
> Yeah I think youre right about the cutout behind the motherboard, I simply assumed it was for measuring voltage, it most definitely is to facilitate the removal of CPU mounting hardware without having to remove the motherboard from the case.
> 
> Don't worry I didn't forget about helping you with the OC Panel, I will try to get to it tomorrow.


Ironically enough, I was at the same time trying to liquid cool my RC nitro truck, as I live in Minnesota, and I'd the hot aluminum engine block were to hit the snow, it could easily crack the head, so I was trying to sort that (never did, it was just too complex to get a pump on am RC ehicle), but that was about a year after I got into computers, and my friend that introduced me explained that heat was the issue when overclocking, so if I could keep it cool, then I could overclock more... So I took my knowledge of cars, and from all the other areas I had applicable experience, and had a go at it. Unfortunately, we stored digital images on floppy's back then, and between that and the hard drive failures over the years, the photos of the rig no longer exist, but the rig most certainly did! 

That is just ridiculous on the mobile cards! It almost feels like they could have done this a few generations ago, but wanted the gap to be much larger and appear more impressive. I mean, beck, when was the last time a flagship card use a pair of 6-pin aux power connectors?
I personally do not remember... I mean, my 670 ftw uses the same, and it has the exact same 145W rating... But it isn't a flagship! lol

Also, no worries on the pinout, I always like to give people time when I ask them for favors, so whenever you get to it. I am in no rush, as the STH10 will arrive today! Yippee!


----------



## SDMODNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Did you test the board before cutting off the heat pipe? If the board was damaged somehow and needs to be RMAd you could possibly replace the heatsink assembly. As it so happens, I need to cut/remove mine for a monoblock install. We could trade. Pm me if you are interested.


Ya I did test it. I was up and running for about two months before this happened. That would be great I will msg you about that heatpipe.


----------



## Jpmboy

*OCN Firestrike Ultra Top 30*


----------



## quoni

Hello everyone!
I have one question about RIV BE, maybe a bit stupid but how is it with pci-e slot. Which of them are x16? I have a Noctua cooler NH- u14s which covers the first slot to me.
In which slot should I plug in a single graphics card to work in x16 mode


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quoni*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> I have one question about RIV BE, maybe a bit stupid but how is it with pci-e slot. Which of them are x16? I have a Noctua cooler NH- u14s which covers the first slot to me.
> In which slot should I plug in a single graphics card to work in x16 mode


Of the four long (x16) slots only the very top and 3rd from the top can actually do x16.

The other 2 x16 slots will run at x8 no matter what. Even if you just put a soundcard in the bottom one... it will use 8 PCIE lanes (learned the hard way).


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Did you test the board before cutting off the heat pipe? If the board was damaged somehow and needs to be RMAd you could possibly replace the heatsink assembly. As it so happens, I need to cut/remove mine for a monoblock install. We could trade. Pm me if you are interested.


I was a dummy for not testing mine before ripping off the heat sink. Luckily the board worked just fine after I flipped the switch.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I was a dummy for not testing mine before ripping off the heat sink. Luckily the board worked just fine after I flipped the switch.


Hey! I am strongly considering copying your amazing black vinyl waterchannel highlight on my Ni plexi monoblock. Extremely cool trick!

My RIVBE is working great, I got it open box from NewEgg at a considerable discount... and it came with absolutely everything including the game code... but in a plain white box. Of course I figured it would explode once I fired it up, but luck was with me. About to break down the loop and install the block, and I'm sending the heatsink assembly off to SDMOD in the morning. Hope his RMA goes OK!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hey! I am strongly considering copying your amazing black vinyl waterchannel highlight on my Ni plexi monoblock. Extremely cool trick!
> 
> My RIVBE is working great, I got it open box from NewEgg at a considerable discount... and it came with absolutely everything including the game code... but in a plain white box. Of course I figured it would explode once I fired it up, but luck was with me. About to break down the loop and install the block, and I'm sending the heatsink assembly off to SDMOD in the morning. Hope his RMA goes OK!


If you have the patience, you too can pull off the same vinyl look. For mine, I did both the monoblock and the two RAM blocks. Two other guys have already used vinyl on their monoblock because of mine, but I have yet to see one in a different color other than matte black. So far mine has been running now for a total of 72 hours, and I haven't had any leaks

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2532.jpg.html


----------



## electro2u

Oh you've solved the issue with the wiring. Excellent! This build you've done is a museum worthy artwork. Amazing, Professor!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I like it as much as I like builds with crazy tubing I don't understand(which is alot of builds these days)

+ REP!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Also update, I'm gonna take the names on the OP and put them into a Google Spreadsheet since obviously the list is gonna get pretty damn long anyways. Going to add Skupples and a few others that have been here a while so that we can keep the list up to date as well as new information. I think this is probably the best choice.
> 
> Lots of information and still going through the pages.


.

I would like to be added as well, I have my board since it was released ( goodness, already pushing a year!!!), but never really got around to adding myself, so what would you have me do to make it easiest for you?


----------



## reev3r

I finally got around to getting an STH10! my rig is 80% done, I just need some slightly longer SATA dATA cables, to get a few items painted, replace the acrylic with a piece of glass, and etch it with an image.

Will be mounting the SSD's differently, so they are more of a centerpiece, I will be implementing more white, since it was meant to be a black and white rig... I already added some heatsinks to the bottom of my dual MCP35x pumps, getting a couple of tube reservoirs, perhaps to replace the bayres, or just adding to it, have not decided. Will be adding a second 560mm rad, right now just using a single 560 and a 280, and with my two GPU's overclocked by 300MHz, and my 4930K up at 4.4GHz, my temps (all running full load for an hour now), are :

Coolant: 30℃
GPU0 (second in loop): 48℃
GPU1 (first in loop): 49℃ - Kind of perplexed by this as GPU0 doesnt go above 48℃...
CPU: 48℃

Very happy with this, especially given that my fans have not arrived yet, and I am only currently using 4 out if a possible 6...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Oh you've solved the issue with the wiring. Excellent! This build you've done is a museum worthy artwork. Amazing, Professor!


Hah, there was really no "issue" . Stupid me didn't think to hit the start button on the mobo to fire it up







. So I went through all the hassle of tearing it down to solve the problem, and when I hit the start button it fired right up. But at least when it was torn down, it gave me a chance to do a final clean up of the soft wires on the top end of the motherboard, where otherwise it would have been difficult had I not removed the mobo.

And thanks for the vote of confidence.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Hah, there was really no "issue" . Stupid me didn't think to hit the start button on the mobo to fire it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So I went through all the hassle of tearing it down to solve the problem, and when I hit the start button it fired right up. But at least when it was torn down, it gave me a chance to do a final clean up of the soft wires on the top end of the motherboard, where otherwise it would have been difficult had I not removed the mobo.


Haha classic! Makes me feel a little better about being super confused with the CPU backplate on the monoblock install. Is it correct to assume it's just not needed? EK instructions state to install the alternate backplate but there's no reason I can come up with and no nuts to hold it on... I used electrical tape to keep it in my place while installing the mammoth block but after wards sat scratching my head for 10 minutes and almost pulled the block back off. XD
I also couldn't figure out why the latches of the CPU top plate mechanism needed to be open while taking the plate off. I didn't do that right if it really is necessary but there was no harm done.

Edit: I get it... Man I'm daft sometimes. They said "step 2 removing the original latch mechanism" so I removed it... They just mean removing the original backplate. Was trying to install this waterblock with no latch mechanism at all. REDO!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Wondering if anybody would be able to help me out a bit...I am really hoping that someone could take the time to help me out and either send a detailed photograph of both sides of both ends of the connectors, with the wires visible enough to tell where they go
> 
> X-empty slot
> K-Black
> G-Green
> F-Gray
> W-White
> R-Red
> L-Blue
> O-Orange
> Y-Yellow
> 
> Thank you!


Maybe someone sent it already but I'll post this anyway so it's in the thread.

Left hand side is the connecter to the OC panel and should be clear on which side is which from the nub.

The right side pics: Hold the connecter as shown in the right center picture, rotate the female connecter face vertically and away from you. You are now looking at the view dipicted in the right bottom picture.

Repeat the above this time rotating the female ace vertically and towards you then rotate the connecter laterally 180 degrees. Your view should match the right top picture.

On the left top picture the wire in heatshrink is flanked by the yellow wire and the white wire 2 spaces over.
On the right top picture the wire in heatshrink is between the blue wire and the red wire one space over.


----------



## Mega Man

i was just about to ask as well. if you need more pics i can take some. life has got semi normal.


----------



## skupples

Seems I picked up Cryptowall 2.0 from unsafe data unpacking (no not porn, I would admit it if it was porn, and who DLs porn in 2014?)

I secure erased my SSD Stripe, unplugged all other drives, secure erased again, then re-installed windows, and things are STILL messed up (known properly functioning legit copy of windows, downloaded from my MSDN)

I then ran the bios recovery were #2 flashes #1? or w/e, still no dice

I have now pulled all my memory sticks, and about to try to BIOS Flashback. I'm hoping this one works.

We have battled other ransomware, and Cryptowall 1.0 @ work, its a walk in the park compared to this 2.0 version of the infection.









hell, one of the ransomwares we've ran into at work had the decryption key stashed in the temp files it created (lol baddy programmers)


----------



## skupples

So... The creme of the crop X79 board doesn't have the "Bios FlashBack" button which allws you to automatically install bios from thumb drive... At least, the guide talks about it, but none of the schematics show this button. Only the cmos reset, direct key, and switcher... Reviews of the board call the CMOS clear button the Flash Back button, but it's not doing what its supposed to do. insert USB w/ the bios on it, hold down the button for 3 seconds, and the bios will update w/o going into the bios or OS... Iv'e tried with a bootable thumb drive, which didn't work, ntfs, fat, fat32... so i'm just confused as hell and would love some help.

Can't seem to figure out how to update bios from safe mode, seems ASUS didn't take into account that people wouldn't want to / have the ability to use their terrible AI suite 3 to update their bios.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So... The creme of the crop X79 board doesn't have the "Bios FlashBack" button which allws you to automatically install bios from thumb drive... At least, the guide talks about it, but none of the schematics show this button. Only the cmos reset, direct key, and switcher... Reviews of the board call the CMOS clear button the Flash Back button, but it's not doing what its supposed to do. insert USB w/ the bios on it, hold down the button for 3 seconds, and the bios will update w/o going into the bios or OS... Iv'e tried with a bootable thumb drive, which didn't work, ntfs, fat, fat32... so i'm just confused as hell and would love some help.
> 
> Can't seem to figure out how to update bios from safe mode, seems ASUS didn't take into account that people wouldn't want to / have the ability to use their terrible AI suite 3 to update their bios.


There is a bios flashback button. It's on the I/o panel the red circular arrow icon. The usb drive needs to be in the correct port iirc and the bios file needs to be named correctly

File should be named r4be.cap
Kinda had to do some hunting in this thread to figure out which port it is... On the hero boards it's clearly marked on the I/o shield.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> There is a bios flashback button. It's on the I/o panel the red circular arrow icon. The usb drive needs to be in the correct port iirc and the bios file needs to be named correctly


Iv'e tried it in the ROG Connect port (like how it works on other ROG boards) annnnnd... I havn't seen to name it anything other than the default naming convention when you download the file









oh cute, had to go to external source to find the correct naming convention as its NOT in their god damn hand book.

so i'm assuming its r4be.cap

this may be one of the worst documented functions of an asus motherboard of all time. Going off of the X99 sheet, as I can't find the old one for 79.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Iv'e tried it in the ROG Connect port (like how it works on other ROG boards) annnnnd... I havn't seen to name it anything other than the default naming convention when you download the file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh cute, had to go to external source to find the correct naming convention as its NOT in their god damn hand book.
> 
> so i'm assuming its r4be.cap
> 
> this may be one of the worst documented functions of an asus motherboard of all time. Going off of the X99 sheet, as I can't find the old one for 79.


I agree. It's terribly documented. Especially considering how potentially important it is. I edited my post above with the proper port highlighted and you have the correct file designation.

It's actually not the rog connect port iirc


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I agree. It's terribly documented. Especially considering how potentially important it is. I edited my post above with the proper port highlighted and you have the correct file designation.
> 
> It's actually not the rog connect port iirc


unlike most ROG boards, the Connect port is BLACK on RBE, where as its white on everything else, but from the helpful Wendle @ Tek Syndicate Video, I believe I have succeeded... Let's just hope this virus isn't smart enough to write its self to DVD-Rs....

will report back soon, the first attempt @ installing OS was obviously flawed. It wanted to restart when ever trying to load base system drivers like chipset and LAN. restart BEFORE installing them. XD

Turns out, the seed in question has been pulled from my private network. That right there is a SMOKING GUN.


----------



## Mega Man

wow... that to me is scary .... i might need to look into some stuff tonight lol

in other good news i managed to bump my oc from 4.7 to 4.8 tonight it seems, as of now ~ 8 hours prime stable !!!! max temp with fans in the normal profile 72c :O


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> wow... that to me is scary .... i might need to look into some stuff tonight lol
> 
> in other good news i managed to bump my oc from 4.7 to 4.8 tonight it seems, as of now ~ 8 hours prime stable !!!! max temp with fans in the normal profile 72c :O


From what I can tell this cryptowall 2.0 destroyed my 1TB EVO drives. I can't get an OS install to complete, but the same image will install fine on anything else. I'm placing an RMA on all disks and flash withi my system.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

@skupples I always go in to the bios > tool > ezy flash 2 utility and update from there ........ but you already know this .........









Heres my entries ....
Dram
http://valid.x86.fr/qg66g8


BLCK
http://valid.x86.fr/lndd65


Clock
http://valid.canardpc.com/efa6a9


Hardware



Chillputer


7782x1440p


----------



## skupples

What the hell is a giant gun wielding maniac doing floating above the earth? Did he get ejected by Madam Air Lock?

@HOMECINEMA-PC The goal was to flash both bios, at the same time, without being in either the BIOS or the OS, in an attempt @ ruling out as many points of infection as possible.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What the hell is a giant gun wielding maniac doing floating above the earth? Did he get ejected by Madam Air Lock?
> 
> @HOMECINEMA-PC The goal was to flash both bios, at the same time, without being in either the BIOS or the OS, in an attempt @ ruling out as many points of infection as possible.


No . LoooooL . That's a screener from the 2nd last stage of COD Ghosts .
Taking over the enemies weapons platforms









Ahhhh I see


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Maybe someone sent it already but I'll post this anyway so it's in the thread.
> 
> Left hand side is the connecter to the OC panel and should be clear on which side is which from the nub.
> 
> The right side pics: Hold the connecter as shown in the right center picture, rotate the female connecter face vertically and away from you. You are now looking at the view dipicted in the right bottom picture.
> 
> Repeat the above this time rotating the female ace vertically and towards you then rotate the connecter laterally 180 degrees. Your view should match the right top picture.
> 
> On the left top picture the wire in heatshrink is flanked by the yellow wire and the white wire 2 spaces over.
> On the right top picture the wire in heatshrink is between the blue wire and the red wire one space over.


I am not certain why, but I did not receive notification of this, but I thank you greatly, this is EXACTLY what I needed! Hopefully the pins I ordered will arrive shortly and I can get it all up and running again.

My Magnum STH10 arrived on Tuesday, so I am definitely excited about that! Got it all assembled in about 1:30hrs, and spent the entire night disassembling my old rig, sucking the parts of that, draining that loop, and installing everything into 'Projecthoenix'. I am far from complete, but I needed to get it up and running,

Going to replace the acrylic with glass, paint the SSD's and mount them visibly, also going to etch the glass with an image, add a couple of large tube reservoirs instead of this bayres, and adding a second 560mm rad, and replacing my fans with the ones I like most of my test fans, the Noctua 140/1200/PWM redux fans.

Pictures:







Going to replace that nasty Cougar once I get a single 120mm redux fan. Unfortunately, I though the convection of air in the case would sufficiently cool the board and PCH/VRM's, etc. but unfortunately not the case... Needed that one fan in there to keep things cool. I have some slight wire management to work through, but nothing much, really. A few LED's to replace as well, namely the sound card, and I need to sort out where to place the second COB LED in the case, I've checked out a couple locations, but I get bright spots and it looks bad. I am thinking the front of the case somewhere...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I like how that 840 Sammy ssd is suspended in mid air ...... LoooL


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am not certain why, but I did not receive notification of this, but I thank you greatly, this is EXACTLY what I needed! Hopefully the pins I ordered will arrive shortly and I can get it all up and running again.
> 
> My Magnum STH10 arrived on Tuesday, so I am definitely excited about that! Got it all assembled in about 1:30hrs, and spent the entire night disassembling my old rig, sucking the parts of that, draining that loop, and installing everything into 'Projecthoenix'. I am far from complete, but I needed to get it up and running,
> 
> Going to replace the acrylic with glass, paint the SSD's and mount them visibly, also going to etch the glass with an image, add a couple of large tube reservoirs instead of this bayres, and adding a second 560mm rad, and replacing my fans with the ones I like most of my test fans, the Noctua 140/1200/PWM redux fans.
> 
> Going to replace that nasty Cougar once I get a single 120mm redux fan. Unfortunately, I though the convection of air in the case would sufficiently cool the board and PCH/VRM's, etc. but unfortunately not the case... Needed that one fan in there to keep things cool. I have some slight wire management to work through, but nothing much, really. A few LED's to replace as well, namely the sound card, and I need to sort out where to place the second COB LED in the case, I've checked out a couple locations, but I get bright spots and it looks bad. I am thinking the front of the case somewhere...


Glad to help. I use an extended ascension myself and it took me something like 2 weeks to get it ready to assemble since I painted it myself lol. The lack of ways to manage the cables is a bit frustrating though, just not to the point to make me buy a new case; even if those caselabs cases do look really nice!

Regarding those stock heatsinks, I had the same issue. I just installed the xspc block set earlier, as a matter of fact, and it dropped temps by 30c on the pch and ~40c on the vrms. Though, like you, I didn't have anything blowing directly on them and I didn't feel like fabricating a mount from welder's plate.

On a separate note, has anyone had their board killing 3-pin fans when hooked up to the cpu header? I've had 2 fans in a row develop a severe vibration/wobble after being connected to it. If I stop it with my finger it doesn't want to start spinning right away, almost like the field polarity isn't switching properly. What ever it's doing is permanent though as the wobble remains after moving the fan to a voltage based controller or a molex to 3 pin converter.


----------



## electro2u

My 295x2 does not appear in the GPU/DIMM POST section of the BIOS (latest beta BIOS) at all. The BIOS says none of the PCIE slots are populated.

Card works fine.

If I put a 290X in, the BIOS recognizes it in the GPU/DIMM POST page.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I like how that 840 Sammy ssd is suspended in mid air ...... LoooL


I LOVE IT! My floating SSD's are clearly the centerpiece of this build. ;-) I tossed everything together in a semi hurry, aandhave yet to mod my PSU by moving all of the SATA/Molex connectors to be exactly the right length/location from the items they are powering.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I LOVE IT! My floating SSD's are clearly the centerpiece of this build. ;-) I tossed everything together in a semi hurry, aandhave yet to mod my PSU by moving all of the SATA/Molex connectors to be exactly the right length/location from the items they are powering.


That case is massive, I don't believe I've seen one bigger than that....Why did you go so big?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Id be trying to put another board in it LoooooL


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> That case is massive, I don't believe I've seen one bigger than that....Why did you go so big?


I did so for a couple of reasons. Number one, my previous case could not support enough radiator without serious mods, which I avoid, and I initially planned to go with a 900D, but it was $350, and it was difficult to commit to, because this one is normally $800 as configured, and I knew that a year from now I would just want this one anyway, but I ended up finding this particular unit for sale in the marketplace for $530 shipped. It was a steal, so I jumped on it.

My other reason, is that I am tired of buying cases that don't work exactly how I want, or have almost every feature I want. This once can be configured however I want, now and in the future.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Id be trying to put another board in it LoooooL


Sorry for the double quote, but there is one literally twice this size, same tower, but with a second case next to it.
. I think it is called the TX10...

here is the TX10: http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-tx10-d/


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Sorry for the double quote, but there is one literally twice this size, same tower, but with a second case next to it.
> . I think it is called the TX10...
> 
> here is the TX10: http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-tx10-d/


Yeah my case is quite big BUT its just easier for me to have it chilled and sprawled out as deskputer .
My case ( that is in a state of flux ATM ) is a Enermax Fulmo GT . I can get a 420 and 280 inside ...... just not quite there to run what I am running


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Yeah my case is quite big BUT its just easier for me to have it chilled and sprawled out as deskputer .
> My case ( that is in a state of flux ATM ) is a Enermax Fulmo GT . I can get a 420 and 280 inside ...... just not quite there to run what I am running


Are you kidding me!?!? That is the case I just moved from! I really did love it, especially after I painted it,and although I could have put a 420, 280 and a 140 in it, it would have been just too crammed for my liking. That is actually quite funny to me, I didn't think anybody else bought that case... lol
I think the Rosewill Thor (?) uses the same chassis.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Are you kidding me!?!? That is the case I just moved from! I really did love it, especially after I painted it,and although I could have put a 420, 280 and a 140 in it, it would have been just too crammed for my liking. That is actually quite funny to me, I didn't think anybody else bought that case... lol
> I think the Rosewill Thor (?) uses the same chassis.


True story man . Good case . I swapped a 680 SOC ( $300 AU ) for it . Came with rads too


----------



## Mega Man

Yep the tx10-d

Aka my next and last case/house

(Until I do another itx build


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> True story man . Good case . I swapped a 680 SOC ( $300 AU ) for it . Came with rads too


Oh man, the great things I could say about that case!!! Unfortunately, it couldn't handle the 560mm rads I wanted, in addition, that case EMPTY weighed more than this STH10 with a motherboard, 3 hard drives, 2 SSD's, two rads (560/280), and PSU! I have a couple of broken ribs, cause by a nasty tumor in my chest, and lifting heavy rigs is quite literally, a pain, and although I still cannot lift this beast alone, I am certain it is ~10-15lbs lighter than the previous case.

Personally, I got so sick of those silver accents that I just painted some of it white, which took me two years (get sick of, that is...).

I really was sad to see that case go... I paid $210 for that case in May of 2012, and I just sold it to a friend for $85, and he is happy...

I should strongly recommend, dependingdepending upon your use case, but getting a fan for that rear mount is SO helpful in cooling the backplate of the CPU, and the VRM's, I actually had to put some thermal adhesive on mine along with some heatsinks to bring it down enough. Sadly, this case does not have a cutout on the back, but fortunately, I have purchased a bunch of thermal pads for a low price, and I am going to simply use the case as a heatsink for it, since it is all aluminum! Yaaay for aluminum cases! lol


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Its there waiting to be revitalized ......... cant see it running again for a while yet . Chillputer is happy how it is and im not messin with it anymore . Im done for awhile


----------



## reev3r

really is saddening to see all of these people being 'done for a while', I have purchased so many parts in the forums from people that are backing away. :-(


----------



## skupples

sigh, i'm growing quite pissed off with 3930k and this board... think it may be time to hunt down a $400 C2 4930k.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

@reev3r
Well if I come across another 290 and or a better benching 4960x or 4930k so I have my ears to the ground
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> sigh, i'm growing quite pissed off with 3930k and this board... think it may be time to hunt down a $400 C2 4930k.


I had troubles BE and 3930k ( IVB-E bios ) not wanting to play nice at 125 strap BUT a 53 multi and 100 strap no problemo .
3930k and RIVE no dramas at all on either straps


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> sigh, i'm growing quite pissed off with 3930k and this board... think it may be time to hunt down a $400 C2 4930k.


Forgive my naivete, but what is a C2 4930K?

As well, how does one know what they have? I have a 4930K and I LOVE the board, but I am having inconsistent benchmarking, sometimes I can hit 4.5GHz, and sometimes as low as 4.2GHz, the odd thing, I can go up to 4.4 with a 1.25 voltage, but the moment I try 4.5 it will not work. I had it at 4.5 when I first got it, but I reset the BIOS to try offset to get lower voltage when idle, but it will not go back up, right now I am at 4.4 :-(

Heat does not seem to be an issue...

On the heat issue, I am curious, I recently did a case swap, during which I moved from 1/2-3/4 to 3/8-1/2 tubing, and added a 560mm rad (instead of a 120mm) to the 280 I have, and now the pump doesn't seem to push NEARLY as much water. Before when the pump was on high, the water in the res was turbulent like crazy, and now, it is barely moving, even at full speed... I am using an mcp35x2, into two XSPC 680 blocks (series), XSPC Raystorm block, 560, 280, then to the bayres. The water is turbulent right when the pump powers on, but calms down within a second (literally one second)...

I have tried tilting the case to get air out, I have moved the pump around, ,shifted tubing/blocks, unscrewed both rads to jostle them a bit, and nothing... My temps do not feel satisfactory...

34℃ on the coolest core to 37℃ on the hottest at idle, and ~68-73℃ on coldest/hottest core at 4.4GHz/1.25 offset... If I kick on both GPU's and the CPU, the graphics cards are in the 40's, while the CPU jacks up even higher...

Any ideas...?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Restrictive wblock or perhaps run twin loops gawd you have the case space
Hes referring to the cpu stepping


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Restrictive wblock or perhaps run twin loops gawd you have the case space
> Hes referring to the cpu stepping


I figured it was the stepping, I just wasn't certain, better to be sure, also, does a higher stepping number signify better stability/overclockability, or is it just specific numbers that people are looking for that 'usually' have good results?

I really did consider running dual loops, but that would require me to purchase double the gear (well, almost), and I have a serious issue with running a single pump in a loop, and adding points of failure is just not my thing...

As stated, the blocks are all the same, and the only things that did change are the tubing, and the 560mm rad, but I do not see either of those affecting it this much, especially with a dual pump top on the 35x pumps... As well, I actually pulled the blocks apart and cleaned them prior to finishing everything, and they do look great. Although, I did forget, I added a filter, and not only is it not clogged, but again, I do not see it causing a problem, however, this is my first 'real loop', other than my solder job back in ~2001, which used a freaking bilge pump and a bucket for a pump and reservoir... So my 'I don't see it' comments are me using my analytical and logical brain (and intuition) to try and rule some things out, but I am more than happy to be incorrect...

So, if anybody has experience, and suggestions to the contrary, I am all ears. 

On a more positive note, when under FULL load (CPU/both GPU's) the CPU will break 80°C quite easily, but under normal loads, heavy gaming, 3DMark, etc. etc. it doesn't break ~60°C... I should have clarified that, does that seem normal? I feel like people post better temps than that...

Just for comparison, what are your temps?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I figured it was the stepping, I just wasn't certain, better to be sure, also, does a higher stepping number signify better stability/overclockability, or is it just specific numbers that people are looking for that 'usually' have good results?
> 
> I really did consider running dual loops, but that would require me to purchase double the gear (well, almost), and I have a serious issue with running a single pump in a loop, and adding points of failure is just not my thing...
> 
> Just for comparison, what are your temps?


Sorry for the long post to follow...

I know this is an AB conversation







but I'll chime in anyway since not much going on at the moment for me and I always like your posts
As far as stepping on Ivy-E is concerned the only issue I can come up with is that VT-d is apparently borked on c1 for Sandy-E... but that shouldn't apply to Ivy-E. I guess maybe the c2s are supposed to clock better.

For the dual loops thing--specifically, about needing 4 pumps to feel comfortable with 2 loops (extra 2 for backup)
I'm newer to watercooling than you are, but I'm also one of those people that tends to quickly gather trial/error info very quickly because if something *can* go wrong, I will manage to *make* it go wrong. I'm not stupid, but I'm no genius either. Slowly getting to my point--->I felt the same way about redundancy in a loop (2 pumps is what I started with on my single loop) until I tripped overtemperature protection several times due to forgetting to plug in my pumps' 12v. I didn't realize it at first and thought maybe my OC was unstable or something so it happened multiple times. It occured to me at that point that I had 3 failsafes and it was somewhat unnecessary. CPU/GPU will shut your system off from getting too hot if your pump fails. It will happen pretty fast, too. On top of that my Aquaero is set to shut the system down if flow stops, pump stops, fans stop, etc.
Fast forward a couple weeks and I actually damaged my spare pump by running it while dry. I've been running with just 1 pump since then. The spare was spliced into the loop separately from my main pump (main is in a Monsoon dual-bay d5 res). So the spare was without its own reservoir and I would only connect it after I had the loop full. Anyway, that works fine but you have to be careful and I did something dumb and that d5 started sounding like a rainstick.

Finally, about temps: I'm on a 4820k so not a completely fair comparison, but I also *was* using a Raystorm CPU block until this week; I switched to an EK monoblock for our R4BE boards and my temps are a little better along with my flow (not sure why the flowrate improved quite so much since the Raystorm was clean).
So this is with running Firestrike Extreme:

And this is Prime95 27.9:

I think your temps are a little high, but mine's only 4 cores so I could be wrong.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I figured it was the stepping, I just wasn't certain, better to be sure, also, does a higher stepping number signify better stability/overclockability, or is it just specific numbers that people are looking for that 'usually' have good results?
> 
> I really did consider running dual loops, but that would require me to purchase double the gear (well, almost), and I have a serious issue with running a single pump in a loop, and adding points of failure is just not my thing...
> 
> As stated, the blocks are all the same, and the only things that did change are the tubing, and the 560mm rad, but I do not see either of those affecting it this much, especially with a dual pump top on the 35x pumps... As well, I actually pulled the blocks apart and cleaned them prior to finishing everything, and they do look great. Although, I did forget, I added a filter, and not only is it not clogged, but again, I do not see it causing a problem, however, this is my first 'real loop', other than my solder job back in ~2001, which used a freaking bilge pump and a bucket for a pump and reservoir... So my 'I don't see it' comments are me using my analytical and logical brain (and intuition) to try and rule some things out, but I am more than happy to be incorrect...
> 
> So, if anybody has experience, and suggestions to the contrary, I am all ears.
> 
> 
> 
> On a more positive note, when under FULL load (CPU/both GPU's) the CPU will break 80°C quite easily, but under normal loads, heavy gaming, 3DMark, etc. etc. it doesn't break ~60°C... I should have clarified that, does that seem normal? I feel like people post better temps than that...
> 
> Just for comparison, what are your temps?


Without chiller 40c full load 420 / 360 rads with chiller no rads take another 8c - 10c off that full load
80c is somewhat acceptable if air cooling , not water . I have 3 pumps . Twin d5 for the cards and a single one for cpu


----------



## reev3r

Well, I suspect that I will need to do some work to figure out what is wrong... I am confident that it is a flow issue somewhere, but pulling my loop apart is going to be a serious pain... Maybe later this week... :-(

Should a 560 really be causing this much of a problem?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Should a 560 really be causing this much of a problem?


It sounds like you have air entrapment issues . .

With a lot of towel in hand, and power only to the pumps, start loosening one fitting at a time progressively thru the system starting just after the pump . . . . . at some point(s), you'll get a pause, and maybe an audible sound, before the water starts squirting out.

Each time you burp the air pocket out, you should see better coolant movement in the res.

I'd try that before tearing the whole thing down, as that's no guarantee that you won't get the same problem on re-assembly.

Darlene


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It sounds like you have air entrapment issues . .
> 
> With a lot of towel in hand, and power only to the pumps, start loosening one fitting at a time progressively thru the system starting just after the pump . . . . . at some point(s), you'll get a pause, and maybe an audible sound, before the water starts squirting out.
> 
> Each time you burp the air pocket out, you should see better coolant movement in the res.
> 
> I'd try that before tearing the whole thing down, as that's no guarantee that you won't get the same problem on re-assembly.
> 
> Darlene


Ugh... Not even remotely excited about this.  I was somewhat thinking that it could be air, but I kind of shrugged it off, but after moving my rads around for the umpteenth time, shakow, more air in the res (of course right before reading this... Yay for suck!

Thanks for the tip.


----------



## Mega Man

before you do that, shake your case with a fitting off on your res ( fill fitting ) and pumps running \


----------



## reev3r

I thi k that I really just need to change the location of my res... Come to think of it... I've no idea why this never occurred to me before, but my res is at the bottom of my case (though still above the pumps), so it would be difficult ult for air to flow downward to it... :-(

Oops. Just had to have my rads up top, didn't I...?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I figured it was the stepping, I just wasn't certain, better to be sure, also, does a higher stepping number signify better stability/overclockability, or is it just specific numbers that people are looking for that 'usually' have good results?
> 
> I really did consider running dual loops, but that would require me to purchase double the gear (well, almost), and I have a serious issue with running a single pump in a loop, and adding points of failure is just not my thing...
> 
> As stated, the blocks are all the same, and the only things that did change are the tubing, and the 560mm rad, but I do not see either of those affecting it this much, especially with a dual pump top on the 35x pumps... As well, I actually pulled the blocks apart and cleaned them prior to finishing everything, and they do look great. Although, I did forget, I added a filter, and not only is it not clogged, but again, I do not see it causing a problem, however, this is my first 'real loop', other than my solder job back in ~2001, which used a freaking bilge pump and a bucket for a pump and reservoir... So my 'I don't see it' comments are me using my analytical and logical brain (and intuition) to try and rule some things out, but I am more than happy to be incorrect...
> 
> So, if anybody has experience, and suggestions to the contrary, I am all ears.
> 
> On a more positive note, when under FULL load (CPU/both GPU's) the CPU will break 80°C quite easily, but under normal loads, heavy gaming, 3DMark, etc. etc. it doesn't break ~60°C... I should have clarified that, does that seem normal? I feel like people post better temps than that...
> 
> Just for comparison, what are your temps?


Same CPU as electro and my temps are within 1-2c of his. Only difference is I'm using a Koolance 380 with the grooves oriented vertically and 2 pmp-500s in series. Back when I was running a Q9650 I noticed a nice flow increase when I moved from 3/8 to 1/2 ID tubing. Iirc larger ID tubing is better for flow than smaller ID tubing because it is less restrictive itself, then you factor in that you have a half inch stream being forced into a water block is going to cool that block better than a 3/8 inch stream at the same speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I thi k that I really just need to change the location of my res... Come to think of it... I've no idea why this never occurred to me before, but my res is at the bottom of my case (though still above the pumps), so it would be difficult ult for air to flow downward to it... :-(
> 
> Oops. Just had to have my rads up top, didn't I...?


My res is located about midway between the top and bottom with the rad fittings being above the lid of the res but the pumps below its base, one rad is completely above the res. Only the front 3 rads give me problems with trapped air because they're mounted vertically but even then I just have to heat the coolant up a bit and leave it warm for most of the air to cycle out. I also get pretty decent movement in the res, especially at higher liquid temps when it becomes less viscous.

Darlene, would that really impede flow? I know it would make sense when accounting for the worse temps, since some of the rad pipes are full of air and not really helping cool the liquid but I wouldn't think it would cut the flow that much. Especially since it sounds like reev has the rad in question mounted on the ceiling with the fitting ports facing down. Laying the case on its side and cycling the pumps should work or run the pumps while you dismount the problem rad and tilt it around to facilitate de-gassing.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Back when I was running a Q9650 I noticed a nice flow increase when I moved from 3/8 to 1/2 ID tubing. Iirc larger ID tubing is better for flow than smaller ID tubing because it is less restrictive itself, then you factor in that you have a half inch stream being forced into a water block is going to cool that block better than a 3/8 inch stream at the same speed.


Flow is better because pressure is reduced. Pressure = friction, friction = slow.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Flow is better because pressure is reduced. Pressure = friction, friction = slow.


Ya, that was it! It's been ages since I looked at a watercooling guide lol I couldn't recall the specifics.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Ya, that was it! It's been ages since I looked at a watercooling guide lol I couldn't recall the specifics.


That's just fluid dynamics. Doesn't matter if water or gas or whatever... same applies to air in a pipe, too.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

With the ID of G1/4 fittings being just under 10mm (0.393") - I'm seeing 0.391" ID Bitspower, 0.375" ID Primochill, and only 0.340" ID Monsoon - it would seem to me that using any larger tubing than 3/8 ID (0.375") then the flow would only bottleneck at every G1/4 fitting in your loop, and not to mention blocks are even more restrictive than that still, so how much of a difference would it really make in practice?

Are there any test results that show any flow increases with any noticeable affect on cooling performance of your loop by going to a larger diameter tube than 3/8" ID? According to *this post* "the difference in flow rate between the smallest and largest isn't enough to make a 1C difference" in loop temps.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That's just fluid dynamics. Doesn't matter if water or gas or whatever... same applies to air in a pipe, too.


Don't you also have to deal with compression when working with gasses too though? I know fluids are usually exempt from compression except in extreme pressure cases.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> With the ID of G1/4 fittings being just under 10mm (0.393") - I'm seeing 0.391" ID Bitspower, 0.375" ID Primochill, and only 0.340" ID Monsoon - it would seem to me that using any larger tubing than 3/8 ID (0.375") then the flow would only bottleneck at every G1/4 fitting in your loop, and not to mention blocks are even more restrictive than that still, so how much of a difference would it really make in practice?
> 
> Are there any test results that show any flow increases with any noticeable affect on cooling performance of your loop by going to a larger diameter tube than 3/8" ID? According to *this post* "the difference in flow rate between the smallest and largest isn't enough to make a 1C difference" in loop temps.


It depends on what is causing reev's bad temps. If his loop flow hit a critical level then maybe things are going pear shaped as the quote says. The still water in the res might support that. The thing is, we don't know what is actually causing the bad temps yet. Though the quote also seems to agree that 1/2 tubing would improve flow rates, however slightly.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Don't you also have to deal with compression when working with gasses too though? I know fluids are usually exempt from compression except in extreme pressure cases.


Yeah, you bet, but the same basic principals apply when considering flow rates and tube sizing.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Same CPU as electro and my temps are within 1-2c of his. Only difference is I'm using a Koolance 380 with the grooves oriented vertically and 2 pmp-500s in series. Back when I was running a Q9650 I noticed a nice flow increase when I moved from 3/8 to 1/2 ID tubing. Iirc larger ID tubing is better for flow than smaller ID tubing because it is less restrictive itself, then you factor in that you have a half inch stream being forced into a water block is going to cool that block better than a 3/8 inch stream at the same speed.
> My res is located about midway between the top and bottom with the rad fittings being above the lid of the res but the pumps below its base, one rad is completely above the res. Only the front 3 rads give me problems with trapped air because they're mounted vertically but even then I just have to heat the coolant up a bit and leave it warm for most of the air to cycle out. I also get pretty decent movement in the res, especially at higher liquid temps when it becomes less viscous.
> 
> Darlene, would that really impede flow? I know it would make sense when accounting for the worse temps, since some of the rad pipes are full of air and not really helping cool the liquid but I wouldn't think it would cut the flow that much. Especially since it sounds like reev has the rad in question mounted on the ceiling with the fitting ports facing down. Laying the case on its side and cycling the pumps should work or run the pumps while you dismount the problem rad and tilt it around to facilitate de-gassing.


I have read and watched a thousand guides on water cooling, and EVERYONE says there is no difference between 3/8 and 1/2 tubing... I have even seen benchmarks that prove it... So I am at a loss on that. :-(

As far as orientation, I have the res about 5" from the bottom of the case, about 2" above the pump, GPU->GPU->CPU->560 (mounted horizontally, with outlet on top)->280 (again, inlet on bottom, outlet up top)->res.

I have tilted my mammoth case in every orientation I can safely do so in its current location to no avail.

That being said, the second pump through the dual top sounds much louder than I recall, making me wonder if it is damaged, but it has never once been run dry, so I don't know. It isn't a terribly loud sound, but certainly louder than I remember, and significantly louder than its partner... It still runs at full speed though...

I am beginning to think that this may end up being a troublesome build. Going to deblock everything later this week, unless running it for a while on its own is able to dislodge some stubborn air... It just doesn't feel like air to me, my first rig had a similar issue for the first week, where temps were high, but the pump was still pushing a lot if water...


----------



## alancsalt

My personal preference is to have my reservoir above the rest....


----------



## electro2u

@reever your cpu is hot but what about the gpu's?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> @reever your cpu is hot but what about the gpu's?


Well, that is what has me additionally thinking the CPU block may have an issue, the GPU temps don't go over 40℃ under full load... I put the block back together the way it came apart, but is it possible I could have put the mid plate in backward? I KNOW that the in/out are correct, as I have checked about a dozen times. lol

I also prefer to have the res above everything else if possible, but it was a temporary solution since I can not mount the res up top... Rethinking the current layout for when I get a couple of tube reservoirs...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Ugh... Not even remotely excited about this.  I was somewhat thinking that it could be air, but I kind of shrugged it off, but after moving my rads around for the umpteenth time, shakow, more air in the res (of course right before reading this... Yay for suck!
> 
> Thanks for the tip.


I would start the air bubble hunt with any vertical rads you may have. My front 480 = the only air trap in my system, so it's the first place I got to after letting things run for awhile. It basically serves as a one stop shop for my entire loop's air trapping, which actually makes bleeding easier.









and yeah, by C2 i mean the second revision of 4930k.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would start the air bubble hunt with any vertical rads you may have. My front 480 = the only air trap in my system, so it's the first place I got to after letting things run for awhile. It basically serves as a one stop shop for my entire loop's air trapping, which actually makes bleeding easier.


Will send some pics when I get home, I can't think of any remotely easy way of doing this, just hoping that shooting over some pics might help someone find an easier way... At least easier than I am able to surmise...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Will send some pics when I get home, I can't think of any remotely easy way of doing this, just hoping that shooting over some pics might help someone find an easier way... At least easier than I am able to surmise...


No way man. If your GPU temps are that good your rads and loop are fine.

It's the mounting of the Raystorm is my diagnosis. Have you had good results with it previously? Because I was running a 4790k on mine for a little while and it had one core that was 26C above the rest. I pulled it off and I had put way too much TIM on there. It had a nasty scratch in it too. I spent a couple hours lapping it to 3000grit and slapped it back on with a very thin layer of Gelid XT and voila it was doing fine again.


----------



## Sam60I

I'm considering of getting a open box of that board for 325$ on ebay and add a used I7 4820k for 226$ instead of z97 and i7 4790k. Should I get it? I'm really hesitating. I like the audio, the OC pannel the wireless AC and overclocking potential of the board. But that's much all I need. The other part of that board are kinda pointless to me. Would recommend me that board guys?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> No way man. If your GPU temps are that good your rads and loop are fine.
> 
> It's the mounting of the Raystorm is my diagnosis. Have you had good results with it previously? Because I was running a 4790k on mine for a little while and it had one core that was 26C above the rest. I pulled it off and I had put way too much TIM on there. It had a nasty scratch in it too. I spent a couple hours lapping it to 3000grit and slapped it back on with a very thin layer of Gelid XT and voila it was doing fine again.


I pulled the block off first thing, and I have never seen a more perfect TIM application, it had worked fine in my previous rig, and I did disassemble it for cleaning, but put it back together as I found it (at least I am very confident that I did), the base is a mirror, no nicks or scratches of any kind... The only thing I can think is that I assembled the block incorrectly...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sam60I*
> 
> I'm considering of getting a open box of that board for 325$ on ebay and add a used I7 4820k for 226$ instead of z97 and i7 4790k. Should I get it? I'm really hesitating. I like the audio, the OC pannel the wireless AC and overclocking potential of the board. But that's much all I need. The other part of that board are kinda pointless to me. Would recommend me that board guys?


The 4790K outperforms the 4820K, beck, the 3770K outperforms the 4820K, so unless you desperately need the 40 lanes or the quad channel, I would advise against...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sam60I*
> 
> I'm considering of getting a open box of that board for 325$ on ebay and add a used I7 4820k for 226$ instead of z97 and i7 4790k. Should I get it? I'm really hesitating. I like the audio, the OC pannel the wireless AC and overclocking potential of the board. But that's much all I need. The other part of that board are kinda pointless to me. Would recommend me that board guys?


I have a 4.8Ghz 4790k and a z97 Hero sitting here unused. I literally just switched to this board and a 4820k. I'm very happy with it.

The 4790k is a little faster than my 4.6Ghz 4820k, but it makes zero practical difference. What does make a huge difference:
Not having to delid the 4820k and getting better temps even though I delidded the 4790k.

This board is solid. Even the Asmedia USB3&SATA3 controllers are excellent imo.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sam60I*
> 
> I'm considering of getting a open box of that board for 325$ on ebay and add a used I7 4820k for 226$ instead of z97 and i7 4790k. Should I get it? I'm really hesitating. I like the audio, the OC pannel the wireless AC and overclocking potential of the board. But that's much all I need. The other part of that board are kinda pointless to me. Would recommend me that board guys?


If you're going for the board, which is great btw, then go for a 3930k or 4930k instead.

Just get the 4790k if you just want/ need 4 cores 8 threads


----------



## reev3r

Alright, I got it sorted... As much as I would LOVE to say it wasn't my fault, it was... During assembly I was a bit excited, and although I put the mid plate in correctly, I turned the block 90°, now she's flowing beautifully!

Thanks all for the advice!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Alright, I got it sorted... As much as I would LOVE to say it wasn't my fault, it was... During assembly I was a bit excited, and although I put the mid plate in correctly, I turned the block 90°, now she's flowing beautifully!
> 
> Thanks all for the advice!


Sweet success! Good work mate!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I have read and watched a thousand guides on water cooling, and EVERYONE says there is no difference between 3/8 and 1/2 tubing... I have even seen benchmarks that prove it... So I am at a loss on that.


I wish I could recall the guide author and forum. When I first started out I had read a popular guide that said something along the lines of "bigger tubing is better for flow which means better temps". Granted this was 6 or 7 years ago when I first started out and now we have rigid acrylic tubing rigs, lga2011v3 systems, and crysis isn't the be all end all for game benchmarking lol.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I wish I could recall the guide author and forum. When I first started out I had read a popular guide that said something along the lines of "bigger tubing is better for flow which means better temps". Granted this was 6 or 7 years ago when I first started out and now we have rigid acrylic tubing rigs, lga2011v3 systems, and crysis isn't the be all end all for game benchmarking lol.


6-7 yrs ago G1/4 wasn't nearly the standard fitting size in watercooling like it is today. Back then you might just as easily have had a loop of all G3/8 fittings where the flow through the larger ID ports and fittings along with a larger diameter tubing wouldn't have been bottlenecked at every fitting so it might actually have made a much larger difference. As it is with the ID of today's G1/4 fittings being more or less equivalent to 3/8" ID tubing having tubing with a larger ID than that isn't likely to make very much of a difference if at all.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I wish I could recall the guide author and forum. When I first started out I had read a popular guide that said something along the lines of "bigger tubing is better for flow which means better temps". Granted this was 6 or 7 years ago when I first started out and now we have rigid acrylic tubing rigs, lga2011v3 systems, and crysis isn't the be all end all for game benchmarking lol.


Agree with Unicr0n, my temps are much BETTER having moved from 1/2" ID, I did add aamici larger radiator, but my temps actually didn't drop as significantly as I might have expected... Which tells me that the whole 1/2" tubing equals _bigger FPS!_ is a non-issue. Between all of the bends, turns twists, nano-fin blocks (not nearly allowing 3/8" of flow, let alone 1/2"), I don't see much difference it could make...


----------



## reev3r

We should really do some sort of "DUH! Moment Awards!"... I think mine should have been when @SpecTRe-X asked about my GPU temps (in comparison to my CPU), and instead of making the connection then, it took me a couple more hours...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I was going to ask you guys about Windows code #0X80300024, but it looks like I found the answer. I was trying to create multiple Windows installs for all 4 of my drives, and got stuck after the first install... So it's all good now.


----------



## SeanEboy

Hey guys, I just got my board up and running on water.. So pumped. Question, what kind of tweaks should I be looking to do here? I have a pretty capable setup, and I wouldn't mind some pointers. Any bios revs better than others, etc?

high binned 3930k
RIVBE
16gb Dom GT
(3) SR1 360 rads push/pull
MCP35X2
Quadfire 290x


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 6-7 yrs ago G1/4 wasn't nearly the standard fitting size in watercooling like it is today. Back then you might just as easily have had a loop of all G3/8 fittings where the flow through the larger ID ports and fittings along with a larger diameter tubing wouldn't have been bottlenecked at every fitting so it might actually have made a much larger difference. As it is with the ID of today's G1/4 fittings being more or less equivalent to 3/8" ID tubing having tubing with a larger ID than that isn't likely to make very much of a difference if at all.


That probably depends on how you measure that. If it's by the bulk of people that had been watercooling their computers for several years already then I would likely agree with that. If you're talking about all watercoolers both veterans and newcomers alike at that time I'm inclined to disagree as all the fittings and blocks I have from when I started out are all G1/4. If anything I think smaller fittings were more prevalent on the market, those 8mm aquacool fittings come to mind.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Agree with Unicr0n, my temps are much BETTER having moved from 1/2" ID, I did add aamici larger radiator, but my temps actually didn't drop as significantly as I might have expected... Which tells me that the whole 1/2" tubing equals _bigger FPS!_ is a non-issue. Between all of the bends, turns twists, nano-fin blocks (not nearly allowing 3/8" of flow, let alone 1/2"), I don't see much difference it could make...


I'm by no means an expert at watercooling or fluid dynamics so the following might be grossly off base. In a closed system the coolant is being pulled as well as pushed. I would think that while you would meet resistance at every fitting one would also have to remember that by using a larger ID tubing the system has less overall resistance. Based on that as long as you stay under a certain number of fittings the resistance would, in theory, be equal to that of a system using matching ID tubing and fittings.

To find that number of fittings for the former one would likely have to account for the role that the bore gradient of the fitting in question plays in the amount of resistance it causes.

Then you figure that the pressure inside the block is different than in the tubing before it as is the pressure in the tubing after it. Isn't this exactly why there are flow plates in cpu waterblocks? To increase the pressure at which water/coolant is shot across a coldplate to better remove heat from the fins/pins? This leads me to believe that one would want a high pressure front end in a block and a low pressure back end so that flow through the cooling fins happens inside an optimum window of flow in order to best facilitate cooling. Granted too fast and the water would actually heat the plate through friction and too slow and the water would boil due to virtual stagnation.


----------



## Mega Man

i was too young to have/do but i still remember seeing heater cores and home made blocks


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I have 3/8 screw in QDC's but alas no rad or block to use them


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> We should really do some sort of "DUH! Moment Awards!"... I think mine should have been when @SpecTRe-X asked about my GPU temps (in comparison to my CPU), and instead of making the connection then, it took me a couple more hours...


Do you have a lot going on AFK ?????


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i was too young to have/do but i still remember seeing heater cores and home made blocks


Bonneville heater cores worked great.


----------



## Mega Man

I remember someone making one block.
I was like OMG that's so cool
Was a flat price of copper with several cups welded to it (each cup was bigger then last) with holes offset so the waterwould have to flow around the cup. To get the most surface area.

Intake was in the middle of the cups and it was on the outer perimeter of the last cup


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I remember someone making one block.
> I was like OMG that's so cool
> Was a flat price of copper with several cups welded to it (each cup was bigger then last) with holes offset so the waterwould have to flow around the cup. To get the most surface area.
> 
> Intake was in the middle of the cups and it was on the outer perimeter of the last cup


That actually sounds pretty familiar to me. And that said, it's pretty amazing how far the whole watercooling thing, and Oc'ing features like the RIVBE offers, have come. And ASUS has been at the forefront of it all, especially when it comes to BIOS, which is why I remain pretty loyal to them. Cooling is great, but without the hardware-level options to get the most, it wouldn't be what it is today.


----------



## Trackles

In the process of assembling my pc, noob here so any advice would be tops,


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trackles*
> 
> In the process of assembling my pc, noob here so any advice would be tops,


Well, you picked a good motherboard! ;c)

Is there a CPU in there?! Better make sure you have a heatsink for it, you cannot run a CPU without proper cooling.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trackles*
> 
> In the process of assembling my pc, noob here so any advice would be tops,


Right off I'd ask how many gfx cards you are going to run and tell you that the VRMs and PCH run pretty hot if they aren't actively cooled. I'd suggest making sure you have some air moving past them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Better make sure you have a heatsink for it, you cannot run a CPU without proper cooling.


I should certainly hope that that isn't something that seriously needs to be suggested to someone buying a board like this


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Right off I'd ask how many gfx cards you are going to run and tell you that the VRMs and PCH run pretty hot if they aren't actively cooled. I'd suggest making sure you have some air moving past them.
> I should certainly hope that that isn't something that seriously needs to be suggested to someone buying a board like this


All valid points. I just see first post, no heatsink, and just want to make sure he doesn't do something costly. It's a free recommendation. Furthermore, I built a system way over my capabilities. It took me 10 months of staring at it, and about 3 hours of assembly. Quite honestly I still look at this thing and am amazed I pulled it off. The only nub mistake I made was forgetting to plug in the front case power/reset buttons. Please do not forget to do that, either. ;c)


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> All valid points. I just see first post, no heatsink, and just want to make sure he doesn't do something costly. It's a free recommendation. Furthermore, I built a system way over my capabilities. It took me 10 months of staring at it, and about 3 hours of assembly. Quite honestly I still look at this thing and am amazed I pulled it off. The only nub mistake I made was forgetting to plug in the front case power/reset buttons. Please do not forget to do that, either. ;c)


Indeed, we've all done it I'm sure. I was so tired from working on a tear down and rebuild that I forgot to tighten that last fitting. It wasn't until I started filling the system that I realized it was still loose. I nearly died of embarassment









What's that rig look like, I'm a little curious to see it now.


----------



## Trackles

Okay so I have the corsair H110 cpu cooler ready to go just waiting for thermal paste to arrive, and not sure which cards ill get prob ASUS


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Indeed, we've all done it I'm sure. I was so tired from working on a tear down and rebuild that I forgot to tighten that last fitting. It wasn't until I started filling the system that I realized it was still loose. I nearly died of embarrassment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's that rig look like, I'm a little curious to see it now.


Snapped a quick one when I got home. Definitely no justice given.. nor wire management finishing touches on the GPUs just yet either. Filling process photo as well, prior to wire management, and dusting. I really should've just waited to take nice photos. Oh well, we'll have a ribbon cutting ceremony with my SLR photos, then.







And, one of the desktop, might set out to debezel these things...


----------



## cadaveca

Nice build, SeanEboy...

What Dominator GT's you got there?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Snapped a quick one when I got home. Definitely no justice given.. nor wire management finishing touches on the GPUs just yet either. Filling process photo as well, prior to wire management, and dusting. I really should've just waited to take nice photos. Oh well, we'll have a ribbon cutting ceremony with my SLR photos, then.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, one of the desktop, might set out to debezel these things...


Only one 1500W PSU for Quad R9 290X? Tried BF4 @ 4K Ultra? I bet it will shut down ...


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Nice build, SeanEboy...
> 
> What Dominator GT's you got there?


Thanks man! I haven't even cleaned her up yet.. I'm calling this the 'internal test bench' at the moment. I'm pretty sure they're 2133's... But, I'll have to check. Yep, 2133. Haven't even messed with them yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Only one 1500W PSU for Quad R9 290X? Tried BF4 @ 4K Ultra? I bet it will shut down ...


Not yet.. Still don't have the active displayport adapter, damn thing. Haven't even hooked up the receiver to it either, so no sound. I'm trying to focus on tuning, before I even get hooked on the IV drip that is BF4... I don't think it will, because the watercooling will keep them running cooler and drawing less power. At least, that's what I'm hoping for. I recall discussing this at length with someone, and they actually calculated the dissipation, and determined it would be alright, provided I was not mining, nor pushing the oc.

It very well might shut down though.. We'll see. I did not plan on this PSU, It just kind of fell into my lap. I wanted to do the Lepa 1600, or one of the SuperNovas... I have to re-evaluate what's out there now. Pointers are welcome!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Still don't have the active displayport adapter, damn thing. Haven't even hooked up the receiver to it either, so no sound. I'm trying to focus on tuning, before I even get hooked on the IV drip that is BF4... I don't think it will, because the watercooling will keep them running cooler and drawing less power. At least, that's what I'm hoping for. I recall discussing this at length with someone, and they actually calculated the dissipation, and determined it would be alright, provided I was not mining, nor pushing the oc.
> 
> It very well might shut down though.. We'll see. I did not plan on this PSU, It just kind of fell into my lap. I wanted to do the Lepa 1600, or one of the SuperNovas... I have to re-evaluate what's out there now. Pointers are welcome!


Just sayin' that my 3930K stock and 4x r9 290x quit on me with my EVGA G2 1300W ... now I am doing 4930K @ 4,7 Ghz and the cards @ 1100/1300 and 1500 watts is not enough then ... I have 2x EVGA G2 1300W (two cards on each PSU in case I want to do bios mods and overclock the heck out of them).

Shilka told me that the EVGA G2 1300W was one of the better at that much wattage, now a days you have the EVGA G2/T2 1600W and the Corsair AX1500i which supposedly takes 2x R9 295X2's so I guess it can take 4x R9 290X's as well, but I would have added a second PSU either way if you are thinking of overclocking your CPU, RAM and GPU's.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Just sayin' that my 3930K stock and 4x r9 290x quit on me with my EVGA G2 1300W ... now I am doing 4930K @ 4,7 Ghz and the cards @ 1100/1300 and 1500 watts is not enough then ... I have 2x EVGA G2 1300W (two cards on each PSU in case I want to do bios mods and overclock the heck out of them).
> 
> Shilka told me that the EVGA G2 1300W was one of the better at that much wattage, now a days you have the EVGA G2/T2 1600W and the Corsair AX1500i which supposedly takes 2x R9 295X2's so I guess it can take 4x R9 290X's as well, but I would have added a second PSU either way if you are thinking of overclocking your CPU, RAM and GPU's.


a

Awesome input man, thanks! I had posted looking for someone running the same setup as I way back when, but nobody was.. Sounds like I'll have to shop for another PSU... Oh man.


----------



## reev3r

I had a friend that used the oil cooler/radiator from an old pickup truck for his loop. It was kind of funny, my loop was HUGE, because I did not have an actual radiator, but instead a bunch of copper tubing coiled up, and his had a radiator mounted to his case, his was much, much nicer looking, and mobile than mine, but mine was significantly cooler than his, as well as being silent, since his required a larger bilge pump, and he actually used the original fan as well, so when it was at full speed it was insane! lol Fortunately I found a rheostat that was of sufficient amperage to allow voltage control, which for him was a godsend.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I wish I could recall the guide author and forum. When I first started out I had read a popular guide that said something along the lines of "bigger tubing is better for flow which means better temps". Granted this was 6 or 7 years ago when I first started out and now we have rigid acrylic tubing rigs, lga2011v3 systems, and crysis isn't the be all end all for game benchmarking lol.


I am wondering if that guide was implying that the entire loop was a given ID... So all of the fittings, blocks, tubing, etc. etc. were of the same diameter... Just a thought...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I have 3/8 screw in QDC's but alas no rad or block to use them


Just a thought... Send them out to me, and they will find a happy home, where they are loved, treated fairly, and given constant encouragement about how useful and handsome they are!!! ;-)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Do you have a lot going on AFK ?????


I did at the time, yeah...


----------



## alancsalt

Cleaned of very Off Topic conversation.


----------



## Trackles

So making progress on my build, getting some Blue Corsair Quiet Editions to replace stock cooling fans and will eventually get 2 980's in SLI


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trackles*
> 
> So making progress on my build, getting some Blue Corsair Quiet Editions to replace stock cooling fans and will eventually get 2 980's in SLI


Fantastic! VERY excited for your 980's!!! Got a build log at all?


----------



## Trackles

Just a few photos unfortunately, this is my first ever build so I am just focusing on building atm.


----------



## reev3r

Well, looks to me like you have made some great hardware choices! Fantastic board to run a first build with! Feels like you've got a solid handle on what you're doing!


----------



## Trackles

Its an investment I sold my Plasma TV and consoles to build a decent pc, and have some clue thanks to watching many videos on YouTube particularly LinusTech and NCIX and OC3DTV and Hardware Canucks, professional videos really help out a lot, (just dont ask about cable management.), just hoping to heck that I didnt damage anything while building, cause ill be totally screwed.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trackles*
> 
> Its an investment I sold my Plasma TV and consoles to build a decent pc, and have some clue thanks to watching many videos on YouTube particularly LinusTech and NCIX and OC3DTV and Hardware Canucks, professional videos really help out a lot.


Well that really is a fantastic bit of motivation, confidence, enthusiasm, and daring! With just a tad bit of insanity and madness tossed in for good measure! Not many people willing to dump such hardware to take the dive into the PC Master race with no experience and a couple videos... I really am quite impressed, I think that many of the more advanced users on here will be as well, considering how most of either started young, or had someone there to fall back on for guidance, to see you just jump right in gives me hope in humankind just yet!

I thank you for saving the human race!


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> House wiring in the U.S. Is 15 amp breaker for lights and 20 amp breaker for wall sockets. Watt = amp X voltage.


Not where I live my house and my family's houses all have all 15 amp breakers. Anyway yes that's right watts =amps x volts however anyway my anagalgy still works a 15 amp 230v is like 32amps for us. And are you talking about new houses with your 20 amp breakers I don't know anyone that has 20amp socket breakers
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trackles*
> 
> Its an investment I sold my Plasma TV and consoles to build a decent pc, and have some clue thanks to watching many videos on YouTube particularly LinusTech and NCIX and OC3DTV and Hardware Canucks, professional videos really help out a lot, (just dont ask about cable management.), just hoping to heck that I didnt damage anything while building, cause ill be totally screwed.


I am also impressed. Welcome to the PC Master Race









Yep reev3r I started young but just always been technical taking apart electronics to see the innards ect. Also going to college for IT helped.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Not where I live my house and my family's houses all have all 15 amp breakers. Anyway yes that's right watts =amps x volts however anyway my anagalgy still works a 15 amp 230v is like 32amps for us. And are you talking about new houses with your 20 amp breakers I don't know anyone that has 20amp socket breakers
> I am also impressed. Welcome to the PC Master Race
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep reev3r I started young but just always been technical taking apart electronics to see the innards ect. Also going to college for IT helped.


Ok, let me clarify the amperage in homes; in California under California electrical code, 12 gauge wire is used for sockets which requiers no more than 20 amp breakers, house lighting uses 14 gauge wire which requires no more than 15 amp breakers and all of which I am talking about is 120 volt wiring. 220 v specifications are a little different depending on the usage like electric clothes dryers. This is what I remember back from 1987 to about 2005; not all states are the same. So if you have 15 amp breakers, then there is a reason; thinner house wires. In Thailand, all they use is 15 amp breakers and that is ~12 gauge house wires, lites and plugs.

Actually, 15 amps on 230v is 3450 watts. 30 amps on 120v. is 3600 watts, almost the same but in no way is it like anything 32 amps; its all rated in watts, more accurate. My pc here will take 3000 watts with 230 volts. In the U.S.A. it will still take 3000 watts but the amperage is less. Hope this helps.

I also started out young in the mid 60's at age 14 collecting old black-white Tv's out of peoples trash and building my own built-in BW TV in the garge. Electronics was my baby and studied it and used it in everyday life and still am. When computers came along, I got into IT and programming and I still love it but now retired; long career in everything, including building houses.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Ok, let me clarify the amperage in homes; in California under California electrical code, 12 gauge wire is used for sockets which requiers no more than 20 amp breakers, house lighting uses 14 gauge wire which requires no more than 15 amp breakers and all of which I am talking about is 120 volt wiring. 220 v specifications are a little different depending on the usage like electric clothes dryers. This is what I remember back from 1987 to about 2005; not all states are the same. So if you have 15 amp breakers, then there is a reason; thinner house wires. In Thailand, all they use is 15 amp breakers and that is ~12 gauge house wires, lites and plugs.
> Actually, 15 amps on 230v is 3450 watts. 30 amps on 120v. is 3600 watts, almost the same but in no way is it like anything 32 amps; its all rated in watts, more accurate. My pc here will take 3000 watts with 230 volts. In the U.S.A. it will still take 3000 watts but the amperage is less. Hope this helps


didn't mean to post that I posted to the new guy that must have still been on a post from long ago lol. Anyway I aksed my buddy about this who is a traveling electrician for a large company out of the 12 states he frequents he sees very few 20 amp breakers in homes most homes in united states is 15 amp breakers not 20 maybe california uses 20 but that doesnt mean everyone does(i dont think he does work in cali. I know off hand he works in arizona, georgia, maryland, new york, virigna and theres more but i dont rember those are the most common that he tells me about. Your right I was off by the 32 amps your correct that is 30 amps is 3600 watts i must have been half awake when writing that again didn't mean to post it just now.

Sadly he doesnt have an ocn account but ill try to get him to make one so he can tell you unless your an electrician in a country you dont even live in.

"My pc here will take 3000 watts with 230 volts. In the U.S.A. it will still take 3000 watts but the amperage is less" the amperage is more not less I assume you already know that as you have already stated an example so just pointing out you wrote that backwards. The entire point of the whole thing was the amount of amps your breaker is can tell you how many watts you can safely pull and a 2000w pc cannot run on a 15 amp breaker in the us with 120v power


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> didn't mean to post that I posted to the new guy that must have still been on a post from long ago lol. Anyway I aksed my buddy about this who is a traveling electrician for a large company out of the 12 states he frequents he sees very few 20 amp breakers in homes most homes in united states is 15 amp breakers not 20 maybe california uses 20 but that doesnt mean everyone does(i dont think he does work in cali. I know off hand he works in arizona, georgia, maryland, new york, virigna and theres more but i dont rember those are the most common that he tells me about. Your right I was off by the 32 amps your correct that is 30 amps is 3600 watts i must have been half awake when writing that again didn't mean to post it just now.
> 
> Sadly he doesnt have an ocn account but ill try to get him to make one so he can tell you unless your an electrician in a country you dont even live in.
> 
> "My pc here will take 3000 watts with 230 volts. In the U.S.A. it will still take 3000 watts but the amperage is less" the amperage is more not less I assume you already know that as you have already stated an example so just pointing out you wrote that backwards.


Yep, its time for bed


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Yep, its time for bed


When stuff like this comes up, I always like to ask:

Electricity is electrons. Electrons are negatively charged. So why do we consider electrical cables in positive and ground? Doesn't negative particles travel *to* positive?

And:

What does RMS mean??

ROFL.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Yep, its time for bed
> 
> 
> 
> When stuff like this comes up, I always like to ask:
> 
> Electricity is electrons. Electrons are negatively charged. So why do we consider electrical cables in positive and ground? Doesn't negative particles travel *to* positive?
> 
> And:
> 
> *What does RMS mean*??
> 
> ROFL.
Click to expand...

RMS means Root Mean Square

In simple terms, it's the equivalent level of energy, (heating ability) expressed in DC, as the AC voltage it refers to.

It's derived from taking an infinite number of points along the AC sine wave, squaring that value, and then summing them, and finally taking the square root of that sum.

In practice, it's 0.707 times the peak AC value.

For US power, we have nominally 1118VAC, which is an RMS value.

If you look at our line voltage on a scope, the actual peak voltage is 167V positive at 90 degrees, and negative 167V at 270 degrees. . . . or 334V when expressed in the typical manner of talking about AC as Peak to Peak Voltage.

Which is why when you look at switching power supplies, you always see the primary side cap rated at 400V, instead of 200V.

Darlene


----------



## inlandchris

Well, everyones on track, couldnt say it better myself. As a user of the iPad, I understand an occasional miss-type.
In practice, I used the 2 axioms: .707 for rms and 1.414 to find the peak of the rms. But, nowadays, I seldom use them but appreciate anymone who can come up with the numbers...kudos!


----------



## specgav

guys i would need some help on enabling fastboot on this motherboard, i made a thread here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1520924/cannot-manage-to-make-use-of-fast-boot-x79-mobo-rampage-iv-be-evga-titan-black-sc-vga
any help is greatly appreciated


----------



## electro2u

Z87 >>> Z97>>> X79 ???


----------



## unlimited

Can i join finelly?







btw 8600 gt with 1200i epic


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am wondering if that guide was implying that the entire loop was a given ID... So all of the fittings, blocks, tubing, etc. etc. were of the same diameter... Just a thought...


It's possible that that was one of the parameters of the test but I don't recall that being disclosed. It's been so long, however, that I can't reliably say.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Snapped a quick one when I got home. Definitely no justice given.. nor wire management finishing touches on the GPUs just yet either. Filling process photo as well, prior to wire management, and dusting. I really should've just waited to take nice photos. Oh well, we'll have a ribbon cutting ceremony with my SLR photos, then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, one of the desktop, might set out to debezel these things...


Looks pretty good, I'm not a fan of the monitor set up but whatever floats your boat


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Not where I live my house and my family's houses all have all 15 amp breakers. Anyway yes that's right watts =amps x volts however anyway my anagalgy still works a 15 amp 230v is like 32amps for us. And are you talking about new houses with your 20 amp breakers I don't know anyone that has 20amp socket breakers
> I am also impressed. Welcome to the PC Master Race
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep reev3r I started young but just always been technical taking apart electronics to see the innards ect. Also going to college for IT helped.


Same here, I have been taking apart every bit of electrical equipment I could get my hands on since I was about six. I actually remember my teacher in 1st grade letting me disassemble a Receiver and VCR that stopped working (back before the RoHS had been implemented, so who knows WHAT goodies I was playing with...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> It's possible that that was one of the parameters of the test but I don't recall that being disclosed. It's been so long, however, that I can't reliably say.


I am actually going to run an experiment of this soon! I realized that I have a couple of TEC's, 1/2" ID, and 3/8" ID tubing, so I am planning to put both TEC's in the loop, and both of my 120mm rads, and figure out what exactly the difference is... It may take me a month to get around to it, but that's fine, it will be a wrtowhile experiment.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quick memory benching with new 3930k:


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> It's possible that that was one of the parameters of the test but I don't recall that being disclosed. It's been so long, however, that I can't reliably say.
> Looks pretty good, I'm not a fan of the monitor set up but whatever floats your boat


Thanks man, I haven't even polished it up at all, I really need to do that, but the damn light in the room isn't working so when I get home after dark, it's play time. As for the monitors, I might be switching it up, it's too cramped where it is now to go landscape. I have portrait x3 at work, too, so I'm kind of used to it. However, I'd love to be playing with at least one in landscape, while waiting for my active adapter to show (friday...).


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am actually going to run an experiment of this soon! I realized that I have a couple of TEC's, 1/2" ID, and 3/8" ID tubing, so I am planning to put both TEC's in the loop, and both of my 120mm rads, and figure out what exactly the difference is... It may take me a month to get around to it, but that's fine, it will be a wrtowhile experiment.


I'd be interested in seeing the results of that!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Thanks man, I haven't even polished it up at all, I really need to do that, but the damn light in the room isn't working so when I get home after dark, it's play time. As for the monitors, I might be switching it up, it's too cramped where it is now to go landscape. I have portrait x3 at work, too, so I'm kind of used to it. However, I'd love to be playing with at least one in landscape, while waiting for my active adapter to show (friday...).


I've never really cared for multi-monitor setups to be honest. I work on 3 in landscape but I never was able to get used to gaming with them so I just use one for my gaming rig. That said, I wouldn't be opposed to trying an oculus rift, especially in a game like war thunder.


----------



## REDEMPTEURE

count me in! little late to game, but this mb deserves it.
love this thread guys, inspired me to finally make an account. ive learned so much here.



only photo i have on my laptop atm. heres my submission in a older revision of my main build.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REDEMPTEURE*
> 
> count me in! little late to game, but this mb deserves it.
> love this thread guys, inspired me to finally make an account. ive learned so much here.
> 
> 
> 
> only photo i have on my laptop atm. heres my submission in a older revision of my main build.


All you need in there are a couple of these bad boys:




They are COB LED panels... They cast a MUCH more even light than either the LED strips, or normal LED's, which unfortunately, are directional. :-( As you can see by the image of my build, it is a nice, even glow.  Just a thought... The caveat is also the benefit, in reality... They are expensive! For their size, when compared to what I am used to (300-5050 LED strip lights), the price is ridiculous, since I can get the 5050 strips for ~$10/5m, these cost ~$10/34CM... Then again, they are significantly cheaper than the BitFenix Alchemy strip lights at ~$25/30CM... The good part, is that these are so even, and bright, that you only need two of them in a build, at most... If I put the second one in it is just too bright, I can not really find a good spot for it to evenly light everything, while not being too bright on the eyes (anywhere I try it shines directly out the window..).

Just a thought... Hope everyone finds these useful! They can be had on your favorite auction site by simply searching "COB DRL" - They come in different lengths, most notably 14CM and 17CM lengths (at least that I have found), though I am sure more lengths are available from different sources...


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

3930K pushing ram to 2600MHz CL9:



This little 3930k has a beastly IMC!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Damn... i got mine to 2530 but 2600? Hell no

Any superpi 32m results?

I wonder if the mobo has anything to do with that


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 3930K pushing ram to 2600MHz CL9:
> 
> 
> 
> This little 3930k has a beastly IMC!


Dude, nice chip. Pretty nice rams, too.


----------



## SeanEboy

Oh man, I supposedly have a good 3930k, never tested it though.. Now, it's under (3) 360 SR1 rads, p/p AP-15s... Time to learn to overclock!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Dude, nice chip. Pretty nice rams, too.


Thanks.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Damn... i got mine to 2530 but 2600? Hell no
> 
> Any superpi 32m results?
> 
> I wonder if the mobo has anything to do with that


Yes, 32m run:


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, 32m run:


1,55 volts?









I sure as heck hope you have a chiller or phase change or something, because that CPU cannot be cold just with a normal water cooling setup.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

that is quite a lot for under 5ghz! 1.4 is supposed to be the line on those chips to avoid degradation

nice though very nice


----------



## Clos

Curious question if anyone knows...

The built in Wi-Fi GO! module, is it an expansion mini pci-e that's hidden under the plastic cover for the rear ports? or is it embedded on the board?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 3930K pushing ram to 2600MHz CL9:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little 3930k has a beastly IMC!


great IMC! which ram sticks are those?

NVM - fantastic corsairs!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> Curious question if anyone knows...
> 
> The built in Wi-Fi GO! module, is it an expansion mini pci-e that's hidden under the plastic cover for the rear ports? or is it embedded on the board?


It looked fairly embeded to me.











EDIT: It's also not plastic but an actual block of aluminium that helps cool the VRMs/transformers.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Yeah that voltage was high!


----------



## Clos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> It looked fairly embeded to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: It's also not plastic but an actual block of aluminium that helps cool the VRMs/transformers.


Ah, i appreciate the info. Thank uou very much.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 3930K pushing ram to 2600MHz CL9:
> 
> 
> 
> This little 3930k has a beastly IMC!


Yep it has









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> 1,55 volts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sure as heck hope you have a chiller or phase change or something, because that CPU cannot be cold just with a normal water cooling setup.


Pfffffttttt 1.55vc is NOTHING for one of those


----------



## Cyber Locc

HAHA Success I have found the stupid Unknown Driver that has been driving me nuts. This is from the Asus support forums.

" It's for the AMDA00 Interface and you can download the driver from here: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/utils/AMDA00_XPVistaWin7_8.zip "

IT works not a clue why you need and amd driver for a Intel board but whatever at least its there now


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Pfffffttttt 1.55vc is NOTHING for one of those


When you say that I want to go full out and get phase change and see what my 3930K could do at 1,55 vc


----------



## Juggalo23451

Temps are at idle


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451*
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are at idle


pretty standard idle temps, I get those under an H100. Ambient is gonna affect that too, of course. What's load like?

Intersted since I am also running 3x 780 TI, so our configs are pretty identical(i'm running same clocks, too)

I'm using H220 X now, though.


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> pretty standard idle temps, I get those under an H100. Ambient is gonna affect that too, of course. What's load like?
> 
> Intersted since I am also running 3x 780 TI, so our configs are pretty identical(i'm running same clocks, too)
> 
> I'm using H220 X now, though.


mac load is about 69-70 degrees depending on the ambient temp


----------



## reev3r

@Juggalo23451

Kind of funny, I watched your vids on YouTube in order to see my STH10 before it arrived... I thought you were rocking a rigid tubed beast of a rig?

Sad to see yet ANOTHER person with a 4930K that gives mine the smack down... Although I can get past 4.5GHz, it requires 1.4V and I am happy with my 4.4GHz at 1.25V on offset. 

Everything alright with your rig?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451*
> 
> mac load is about 69-70 degrees depending on the ambient temp


Thanks dude, Better than what I get, which is 8-10c higher than you. What block ya got cooling that?


----------



## Trackles

An update just finished the LED and fan installs, I went with 3 140mm blue NZXT fans and 2 Corsair Quiet edition fans for the H110 cooler, she's pretty much done just waiting for GPU, HDD and SSD and the peripherals.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Does anyone know what the 6F code is for? I've looked in the manual and searched this thread and google but haven't found anything about it.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Does anyone know what the 6F code is for? I've looked in the manual and searched this thread and google but haven't found anything about it.


A quick google-search gave this: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/318014-30-asus-p9x79-hangs-code-initialization

Same old thing I guess, check bios, settings in bios, try one ram stick and so on. I know the link is for P9X79.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

How hot does the Chipset get with stock heatsinks vs water blocks? Running 4930K @ 4,9 Ghz+, 2400/2666 Mhz 16GB, 4x R9 290X.

I have a really hard time trying to connect my Chipset block to my GPU blocks, might end up with soft tube if the hard-tubing does not work.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Does anyone know what the 6F code is for? I've looked in the manual and searched this thread and google but haven't found anything about it.


usually ram related. (IMc or the ram timings) If you hit the reset button will it stall again at 6F or 55, 33, or 4F? Check the boot LEDs for where it stops.


----------



## baysta

Does anyone else have an issue with soundcards (in this case a SB ZxR) in the PCIe 1x slot on this board causing random stuttering during gameplay? I'm running 2x290x in CF w/ 3960x + 16GB G.Skill TridentX and get intermittent chirps, followed by a frozen screen, before the game resumes.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> A quick google-search gave this: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/318014-30-asus-p9x79-hangs-code-initialization
> 
> Same old thing I guess, check bios, settings in bios, try one ram stick and so on. I know the link is for P9X79.


I probably should have added more info, sorry. If you look below to my reply to Hpmboy you see that link doesn't really help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> How hot does the Chipset get with stock heatsinks vs water blocks? Running 4930K @ 4,9 Ghz+, 2400/2666 Mhz 16GB, 4x R9 290X.
> 
> I have a really hard time trying to connect my Chipset block to my GPU blocks, might end up with soft tube if the hard-tubing does not work.


I went cpu->pch->vrm->gfx but with soft tubing. There are pics of it in my sig rig if you want to look for an idea. i dropped ~30C on the pch iirc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> usually ram related. (IMc or the ram timings) If you hit the reset button will it stall again at 6F or 55, 33, or 4F? Check the boot LEDs for where it stops.


That's just it, it doesn't hang on boot. Every now and then my rig will blackscreen while I'm doing something and the q-code goes from AA to 6F, stays at the blackscreen/6F combo for maybe 20 seconds then shuts down. It boots up fine after with windows just giving me the option to restart in safe mode. It's done this, i think twice, since I built it. I'll write down my bios settings next time I boot and post them.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I probably should have added more info, sorry. If you look below to my reply to Hpmboy you see that link doesn't really help.
> I went cpu->pch->vrm->gfx but with soft tubing. There are pics of it in my sig rig if you want to look for an idea. i dropped ~30C on the pch iirc
> That's just it, it doesn't hang on boot. Every now and then my rig will blackscreen while I'm doing something and the q-code goes from AA to 6F, stays at the blackscreen/6F combo for maybe 20 seconds then shuts down. It boots up fine after with windows just giving me the option to restart in safe mode. It's done this, i think twice, since I built it. I'll write down my bios settings next time I boot and post them.


Soft-tubing is no problem, the problem is hard-tubing







Thanks for the difference at the pch though.

When it comes to the q-code you get, you need to start with one memory stick in the board (use one of those you have in your set and try different sticks to be sure it is not a bad ram stick), then be sure to have the right settings in bios for your ram (as Jpmboy said). Whenever you get a q-code of 6F something is wrong and it needs to be fixed, everything can be fixed that way (unless you have faulty parts).
Also, which RAM do you use? Is anything changed before/after you got new hardware into your system? Are you running X.M.P profile? Which speed is your ram (1600/1866 and so on)? Are you overclocking?

Troubleshooting is a pain, but you learn as long as you fiddle around with it, listen to the guys in this thread, they know what they are talking about.


----------



## electro2u

All of the strange problems I've run into with my board have been RAM issues basically. Black screens, random shutdowns under idle, etc.
it's partly because I've used 2 separate ram kits. They are identical, but unmatched for quad channel. I had to raise the dram voltage to 1.67


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> That's just it, it doesn't hang on boot. Every now and then my rig will blackscreen while I'm doing something and the q-code goes from AA to 6F, stays at the blackscreen/6F combo for maybe 20 seconds then shuts down. It boots up fine after with windows just giving me the option to restart in safe mode. It's done this, i think twice, since I built it. I'll write down my bios settings next time I boot and post them.


Right. when it hangs at 6F (before the self-reboot) if you hit the Reset button does it post to bios or stall at a q-code? if the later, what q-code? If not and will boot to windows with a mode option.. it dropped a minidump with a BSOD code (that's how windows "knows" to ask). Extract the file below, run it (it's safe) - what was the last BSOD code time-corresponding to the 6F thing?

bluescreenview-x64.zip 83k .zip file


----------



## SeanEboy

Sooo... I'm thinking X99 guys... Someone talk me out of it... I see 40x PCIE lanes, and I look at my quadfire 290x, and can only wonder if this is the right move to make. The only upgrades would be the mobo/cpu/ram right? No other compatibility issues, right?

The difference is the PCIE lanes in the chipset vs the cpu, right? So, the benefit to being in the chipset is less work/heat on the cpu? Or what?

What I have:
RIVBE - one just sold for $400 used on Ebay
CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 - $279 sold on ebay
i7-3930k - $365! (I swear I bought this thing for less like a year ago..)
=$1044 for current setup (minus ebay/paypal = $908)

X99 Rampage V - $473 (could probably be found cheaper)
4x4GB DDR4 - $300 (low end for now)
i7-5930k - $567
=$1340

So, for a difference of $400.. I'm @ X99 ... Am I doing this right?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Soft-tubing is no problem, the problem is hard-tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the difference at the pch though.
> 
> Also, which RAM do you use? Is anything changed before/after you got new hardware into your system? Are you running X.M.P profile? Which speed is your ram (1600/1866 and so on)? Are you overclocking?
> 
> Troubleshooting is a pain, but you learn as long as you fiddle around with it, listen to the guys in this thread, they know what they are talking about.


That order should help with hard tubing too I'd think, would allow for looser bends.

It was an upgrade from a 775 build so the ram cpu and mobo were all new. I use two of these at stock speeds with a manual profile. I'll attach my bios settings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> All of the strange problems I've run into with my board have been RAM issues basically. Black screens, random shutdowns under idle, etc.
> it's partly because I've used 2 separate ram kits. They are identical, but unmatched for quad channel. I had to raise the dram voltage to 1.67


So what am I looking at to test the ram, memtest? My sticks are also unmatched but bought at the same time for whatever thats worth lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Right. when it hangs at 6F (before the self-reboot) if you hit the Reset button does it post to bios or stall at a q-code? if the later, what q-code? If not and will boot to windows with a mode option.. it dropped a minidump with a BSOD code (that's how windows "knows" to ask). Extract the file below, run it (it's safe) - what was the last BSOD code time-corresponding to the 6F thing?
> 
> bluescreenview-x64.zip 83k .zip file


I've haven't used that in ages! I'll have to re-enable the pagefile and wait for the next 6F code though because I currently run without a paging file of any size. Unless the crashdump saves without one? Just to be clear the rig doesn't power back on after powering off, I have to manually push the power button to turn it on afterward. I also haven't hit the reset button while it was hanging in 6F so I can't say.

biossettings.txt 2k .txt file


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> That order should help with hard tubing too I'd think, would allow for looser bends.


Yes, I could do that order which you listed, but it is not what is the most "best-looking" option and I am not using a CPU-block, the CPU will be cooled with phase change so there is another problem (high fastening bolts that I have to sure that the tubing goes above).
I will be picking up the Phase Change cooling unit tomorrow and then I will see what I have to work with. I think I want to go "all-out" with as much straight lines as possible, in the horizontal direction of the case, have some modding to do too, but that is a story for another thread.









Thanks for the tip though.


----------



## supermiguel

Is it worth it getting the full board waterblock instead of just the cpu?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Is it worth it getting the full board waterblock instead of just the cpu?


In terms of usefulness,
IF you are going to be watercooling the VRMs and PCH
the monoblock is *much* easier to plumb--2 ports as opposed to 6
In terms of aesthetics,
The monoblock looks fantastic, imho
ONE problem. If there are any leaks from the 2 ports on the monoblock from not tightening the fittings enough, and you have RAM blocks as well, the leaks are going to be very difficult to attend to without draining the top of the loop. I had to use needle nose pliers to stop a leak on my outlet port because the fitting was apparently *just* barely too loose. In the process I slightly scratched my monoblock. Impossible to see the scratch without a flood light though.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Yes, I could do that order which you listed, but it is not what is the most "best-looking" option and I am not using a CPU-block, the CPU will be cooled with phase change so there is another problem (high fastening bolts that I have to sure that the tubing goes above).
> I will be picking up the Phase Change cooling unit tomorrow and then I will see what I have to work with. I think I want to go "all-out" with as much straight lines as possible, in the horizontal direction of the case, have some modding to do too, but that is a story for another thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip though.


Perhaps route the tubing around the edge of the bolts instead of over them? You could even run the second line over the first so that it only looks like you have one tube. Good luck regardless though, maybe we'll get to see some pics when it's done


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> In terms of usefulness,
> IF you are going to be watercooling the VRMs and PCH
> the monoblock is *much* easier to plumb--2 ports as opposed to 6
> In terms of aesthetics,
> The monoblock looks fantastic, imho
> ONE problem. If there are any leaks from the 2 ports on the monoblock from not tightening the fittings enough, and you have RAM blocks as well, the leaks are going to be very difficult to attend to without draining the top of the loop. I had to use needle nose pliers to stop a leak on my outlet port because the fitting was apparently *just* barely too loose. In the process I slightly scratched my monoblock. Impossible to see the scratch without a flood light though.


Beside EK anyone else makes a monoblock?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Beside EK anyone else makes a monoblock?


Bitspower makes some. *Link*


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Bitspower makes some.


better? equal? any comparison on the different brands?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Beside EK anyone else makes a monoblock?


Bitspower does also.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1497500/bitspower-full-cover-block-for-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition/

Most people generally post that they think the monoblocks from EK or Bitspower look ugly, but that's usually just from the product pictures. They tend to look a LOT better once put in a build with matching GPU blocks and much cleaner tube routing.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Perhaps route the tubing around the edge of the bolts instead of over them? You could even run the second line over the first so that it only looks like you have one tube. Good luck regardless though, maybe we'll get to see some pics when it's done


The tubing will definitely not be routed around the edges, instead of over them









I think I have found out the best way to do it now, it will take some time and a little modding so it will be perfect I think. Pics you can count on!









Now to your problem:

From the quick look I took at your bios-settings they seem fine to me, but I would have been running the X.M.P profile or done the "manual" overclocking like the specs on your RAM, just to be on the safe side. I am sure you have been running Memtest to be sure that your RAM is okay, if you have a mismatched RAM-set then that could also be the problem, my mismatched set worked, but I may got lucky on that. Or you could do some P95 with lots of memory tested and see if it is stable, if it is not I guess you have to tweak the voltage of the memory a bit to make it stable, although I do not know if that could cause the 6F q-code.

You could try:

1-Core Ratio Limit: Auto (38) --> Manual (and 38)
BLCK Skew: Auto --> Manual (and 100)
CPU Vcore: Manual
CPU Manual voltage: Auto --> Manual (with the "stock" voltage, or more if you are not sure that your CPU is fully stable)
CPU Load-line: AUto --> Medium
CPU power phase control: Extreme --> (I would have tried some lower setting)

I would have tried that, and eventually X.M.P profile (if you have not tried that yet). Run P95/IBT/AIDA64 and Memtest/Windows Memtest (or whatever it is called), if it still get 6F then I would have looked at some other RAM (if the set you have is mismatched, which means two sticks in two different packs). I could not run my mismatched set at anything other than the X.M.P profile and lower frequencies to have it fully stable.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Is it worth it getting the full board waterblock instead of just the cpu?


I see a couple of issues doing that .

The whole thing has to come off to get to cpu . Is it gonna mount as well as the first time ?? Especially if your rig is in side a case . I have a open air bench so that's not much of an issue

A fan on the VRM heatsink and heatsinks on the back of the vrm plate do the job nicely .

Now if your running SB-E I would do this but IVYB-E don't heat up as much as SB-E .

I cant use it cause I run water chiller and that's more surface area to insulate to prevent condensation on the sides and bottom of cold plate not touching the areas in question ( CPU , VRM's )


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> From the quick look I took at your bios-settings they seem fine to me, but I would have been running the X.M.P profile or done the "manual" overclocking like the specs on your RAM, just to be on the safe side. I am sure you have been running Memtest to be sure that your RAM is okay, if you have a mismatched RAM-set then that could also be the problem, my mismatched set worked, but I may got lucky on that. Or you could do some P95 with lots of memory tested and see if it is stable, if it is not I guess you have to tweak the voltage of the memory a bit to make it stable, although I do not know if that could cause the 6F q-code.
> 
> You could try:
> 
> 1-Core Ratio Limit: Auto (38) --> Manual (and 38)
> BLCK Skew: Auto --> Manual (and 100)
> CPU Vcore: Manual
> CPU Manual voltage: Auto --> Manual (with the "stock" voltage, or more if you are not sure that your CPU is fully stable)
> CPU Load-line: AUto --> Medium
> CPU power phase control: Extreme --> (I would have tried some lower setting)
> 
> I would have tried that, and eventually X.M.P profile (if you have not tried that yet). Run P95/IBT/AIDA64 and Memtest/Windows Memtest (or whatever it is called), if it still get 6F then I would have looked at some other RAM (if the set you have is mismatched, which means two sticks in two different packs). I could not run my mismatched set at anything other than the X.M.P profile and lower frequencies to have it fully stable.


The first time it 6Fed the ram was in xmp. I was getting slow boot times and loose primary timings with xmp though, so I set the primary timing manually to their rated value.

I ran prime for an hour, ibt for 10 passes and memtest to 100% when I first built it and had no issues so i figured longer tests would be redundant. I'll set the BLCK skew and load-line to manual next boot but if I set the vcore to manual don't I lose c-state functionality? If I understood what I read I'd have to use a negative Dvid offset to achieve a voltage drop at idle while using a manual vcore input.

Phase control was set lower before I put the VRMs and PCH under water, now that they're running at half their previous temps I didn't see the harm.

To be honest I was hoping someone might know what that code actually means so I could test that specific issue. I appreciate you guys trying to help but this guessing was what I was basically doing before I asked lol. I'll probably bite the bullet and call in to asus tech support and see if the horror stories about them are true.


----------



## electro2u

The problem is almost certainly related to standard xmp timings and using 2 unmatched ram kits. I say this because I was getting 6f as well and having a worse time of it using unmatched kits (this is a risk and ASUS/Intel say don't do it). Testing the ram tells you little because it's under load and the problems are coming up, exactly as they were for me, under idle conditions with an offset and c-states. Raise your ram voltages and/or relax timings and/or relax RAM frequency. The only way to test this stuff as far as I know is usage. C-states won't work w manual vcore.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> The first time it 6Fed the ram was in xmp. I was getting slow boot times and loose primary timings with xmp though, so I set the primary timing manually to their rated value.
> 
> I ran prime for an hour, ibt for 10 passes and memtest to 100% when I first built it and had no issues so i figured longer tests would be redundant. I'll set the BLCK skew and load-line to manual next boot but if I set the vcore to manual don't I lose c-state functionality? If I understood what I read I'd have to use a negative Dvid offset to achieve a voltage drop at idle while using a manual vcore input.
> 
> Phase control was set lower before I put the VRMs and PCH under water, now that they're running at half their previous temps I didn't see the harm.
> 
> To be honest I was hoping someone might know what that code actually means so I could test that specific issue. I appreciate you guys trying to help but this guessing was what I was basically doing before I asked lol. I'll probably bite the bullet and call in to asus tech support and see if the horror stories about them are true.


As the guy above says, find some ram that is not mismatched, that is just 50-50% chance of working, if not less. I would do manual overclock if you are stock anyway to be sure that your CPU gets enough volts (to be 100% sure it is stable), P95 an hour does not mean that your CPU is stable, try 3-4 games for at least a few hours to be completely sure, that is what I do.

Phase control, well I do not quite understand why to put it at anything other than stock (instead of "extreme" when it is nothing "extreme" with any of your clocks), it is kind of like a supercharged gas engine, too much air or too little and it is not working properly, I would just have taken that "risk" out of the equation and set it back to more "normal" settings.

If you read the thread I posted of the P9X79 I am sure you find it out, Asus motherboard is pretty much Asus motherboard, as far as I know the q-codes mean about the same even if it is not the exact same model of motherboard (talking about Asus-boards in same socket, about the same production date and so on). Q-code "00" means the same on Z87 Gene and X79 Black Edition (I know for sure, have had both). My first RIVBE did not work with my 3930K and my 16GB mismatched memory, could be a faulty board, because the second board fired right up, but the RIVBE is quite picky on the RAM just so that you are aware of it.










Spoiler: I add my bios screenshots and you can see about the settings I have used with my mismatched ram X.M.P @ 1866, I have had lots of errors in P95.


----------



## electro2u

I don't think 2 identical mismatched kits are 50/50 to work. They will work with some adjustments.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I don't think 2 identical mismatched kits are 50/50 to work. They will work with some adjustments.


I do not know, you at least do not have any guarantee that they will work at all. As I said, my Crucial BallistiX Elite 1866 Mhz worked (four sticks, two from each own package). It has worked okay for me, but I think that he/you/we can run into some problems using mismatched RAM, it would not surprise me at least.









On the other note, you do not buy the RIVBE if you are not interested in tossing away some money


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> As the guy above says, find some ram that is not mismatched, that is just 50-50% chance of working, if not less. I would do manual overclock if you are stock anyway to be sure that your CPU gets enough volts (to be 100% sure it is stable), P95 an hour does not mean that your CPU is stable, try 3-4 games for at least a few hours to be completely sure, that is what I do.
> 
> Phase control, well I do not quite understand why to put it at anything other than stock (instead of "extreme" when it is nothing "extreme" with any of your clocks), it is kind of like a supercharged gas engine, too much air or too little and it is not working properly, I would just have taken that "risk" out of the equation and set it back to more "normal" settings.
> 
> If you read the thread I posted of the P9X79 I am sure you find it out, Asus motherboard is pretty much Asus motherboard, as far as I know the q-codes mean about the same even if it is not the exact same model of motherboard (talking about Asus-boards in same socket, about the same production date and so on). Q-code "00" means the same on Z87 Gene and X79 Black Edition (I know for sure, have had both). My first RIVBE did not work with my 3930K and my 16GB mismatched memory, could be a faulty board, because the second board fired right up, but the RIVBE is quite picky on the RAM just so that you are aware of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: I add my bios screenshots and you can see about the settings I have used with my mismatched ram X.M.P @ 1866, I have had lots of errors in P95.


Is your bios 0602?

if so, do you like it?

My cpu (4930K) is a little hot (37 C) at idle (water cooled) and thought of changing bios to version 0802 to see if it helps, any thoughts?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Is your bios 0602?
> if so, do you like it?
> My cpu (4930K) is a little hot (37 C) at idle (water cooled) and thought of changing bios to version 0802 to see if it helps, any thoughts?


To be quite honest, I do not know, I use what my board came with (from earlier experiences I do not want to update my bios unless the motherboard does not work properly), my Sabertooth Z77 never got the same after a bios-update. I am very satisfied with that bios, rock solid for me. I think it is 0602.

My 3930K was 30-35C idle, my 4930K is 19-25C (little colder ambient though, but not much), this was with EK-Supremacy Full Nickel and Gelid GC Extreme. Happily I do not need to worry about high temperatures anymore, got myself the LD Cooling PC-V2 Phase Change today.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

@electro2u exactly, that's what I was working off of with regard to testing the ram. So does C-state not work at all with a manual vid even if you use a negative offset? I'm still trying to get my head around using offset voltages for when I OC the CPU.

@Gobigorgohome If you use the engine analogy for phase control then you'd probably want to talk about piston use rather than air intake. From what I understand extreme phase control allows for all the pistons to fire whereas lower settings would be like turning your V8 into a V6 or V4 to save on fuel consumption. As I understand it the VRMs aren't pumping through any more power than is needed but the power that is needed is pumped through all the phase units instead of half or 2 thirds of them. From what I understand about mobo power phases more phases usually means cleaner power, though I could be wrong.

I did contact Asus and found that the 6F is an error flag for the System Agent DXe so maybe my vccsa could do with a slight boost too.

The reason I didn't run p95 longer is because the clocks and voltage were stock and auto respectively. Plus I've had OCs that were game stable but couldn't make 1 pass in IBT or 3 minutes in p95 in the past. I've never had an OC that passed prime and IBT but not a game.









Anyway, I'll make the changes I noted earlier and bump the ram voltage up a notch or two and probably run memtest out to 300 or 400% coverage just to make sure the ram is good. It's a waiting game after that however, as I have no idea how else to reproduce that event otherwise. If it happens again I'll try adding a little vccsa and maybe another notch of ram voltage.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> @Gobigorgohome If you use the engine analogy for phase control then you'd probably want to talk about piston use rather than air intake. From what I understand extreme phase control allows for all the pistons to fire whereas lower settings would be like turning your V8 into a V6 or V4 to save on fuel consumption. As I understand it the VRMs aren't pumping through any more power than is needed but the power that is needed is pumped through all the phase units instead of half or 2 thirds of them. From what I understand about mobo power phases more phases usually means cleaner power, though I could be wrong.
> 
> I did contact Asus and found that the 6F is an error flag for the System Agent DXe so maybe my vccsa could do with a slight boost too.
> 
> The reason I didn't run p95 longer is because the clocks and voltage were stock and auto respectively. Plus I've had OCs that were game stable but couldn't make 1 pass in IBT or 3 minutes in p95 in the past. I've never had an OC that passed prime and IBT but not a game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'll make the changes I noted earlier and bump the ram voltage up a notch or two and probably run memtest out to 300 or 400% coverage just to make sure the ram is good. It's a waiting game after that however, as I have no idea how else to reproduce that event otherwise. If it happens again I'll try adding a little vccsa and maybe another notch of ram voltage.


I do not know about the power phases, but what I have learned is that everything in the bios is pretty proportional. Stock does not need anything at extreme, because it would not need that much power, volt or wattage. I do not know which setting I had that power phase at, but that bios give or take goes from 4,5 to 4,9/5,0 Ghz just changing multiplyer and voltage and I can leave the rest at the same settings.

Anyone here used dyelectric grease in the socket of this board? And where could I buy something like that?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

If any dielectric grease will work then BAM. It's odd that frozencpu and PPCs don't seem to sell it anymore.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> If any dielectric grease will work then BAM. It's odd that frozencpu and PPCs don't seem to sell it anymore.


Thanks a lot, that is in my price-range as well







The phase change cost enough.


----------



## supermiguel

Any one using alphacool video card water blocks? With their backplate on the 1st pci-e slot????


----------



## inlandchris

Funny thing, I am getting high temps on my CPU at idle when (37 C) the clock is at stock speed; 3.4 ->3.9GHz. Now, I overclocked it a little by the multiplier on the cores to 44. My clock speed is 4.4Ghz and my Ram is left at 1866MHz. My temps are lower! They are at 33-34 C at idle; go figure. Anybody have a clue why?


----------



## reev3r

Thank you to EVERYONE that helped me to get my OC Panel wired up again! I had a couple of issues with the DuPont 2.0mm connector and pins I bought, but fortunately I was sent a replacement that rerequired soldering, but it works, and with my 8x6ft K-Type probes I can easily swap out different probes.

Fortunately, this will do just fine until I finish my Arduino temperature display! 10-probes, no swapping, real time temperature display, good times!!!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Thank you to EVERYONE that helped me to get my OC Panel wired up again! I had a couple of issues with the DuPont 2.0mm connector and pins I bought, but fortunately I was sent a replacement that rerequired soldering, but it works, and with my 8x6ft K-Type probes I can easily swap out different probes.
> 
> Fortunately, this will do just fine until I finish my Arduino temperature display! 10-probes, no swapping, real time temperature display, good times!!!


You're very welcome. So that will be 38.67 USD plus tax, where should I send the itemized bill?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> You're very welcome. So that will be 38.67 USD plus tax, where should I send the itemized bill?


Feel Free to send it on over to @skupples...


----------



## Wiz766

Hey guys, so I just bought this board off a guy on OCN. I am having issues installing the OS (may not be board related) but he told me to check here because this board is finicky and sometimes doesn't like being left on "Auto" with voltaged or ram timing etc....

Is there a good place to start? I dont really plan on OCing anyting off the get go till I get it all settled in and final build etc. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Specs are in sig.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> Hey guys, so I just bought this board off a guy on OCN. I am having issues installing the OS (may not be board related) but he told me to check here because this board is finicky and sometimes doesn't like being left on "Auto" with voltaged or ram timing etc....
> 
> Is there a good place to start? I dont really plan on OCing anyting off the get go till I get it all settled in and final build etc. Any help is greatly appreciated.
> Specs are in sig.


Hiya Wiz,
Is the proc OC'd yet?
About your RAM, 1866 should be OK on XMP settings BUT it's pretty critical to know if your 4x4 is 2 identical 2x4GB sets or one matched 4x4GB kit? I'm guessing you manually set your RAM timings, which is where the board is super finicky. RAM timings are tested really well in the initial install of windows, in my experience. These procs can handle 1.67v RAM just fine. That's what I had to do to get my unmatched but identical kits running.


----------



## Wiz766

I cant remeber if they are matching or not with the ram. I bought 2 4x4 kits at one point and they got mixed up but only running 4x4 now.


----------



## gdubc

Did you take the manufacturer lables off the sticks? The sticks from the same kit should have sequential serial numbers.


----------



## Wiz766

They are not a matching set inside. I will need to dig around to find the matching ones. But I am in windows now. I think the SSD I was using got 'bricked'


----------



## Mega Man

check for firmware updates


----------



## axiumone

Ah, yeah. Mismatched ram can cause all sorts of havoc as well. Raja from Asus also mentions this a lot.There's was also a pretty good thread on ROG forums about how to set this board up.

I *think* when I first got it, the setting "current capability" had to be set to 140% in order to help with the random reboots.

What makes you think that the SSD got bricked?


----------



## Wiz766

Everything is up and running now on the board completely solid so far.

It didnt show under the mobo but it did when trying to install Windows. It wont take a install. Windows Installer goes to do its thing then loops back over into bios. Either way it is up and running fine, just used a different SSD.


----------



## axiumone

Awesome. Glad to hear it!


----------



## supermiguel

is there a good overclocking guide for this MOBO?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> is there a good overclocking guide for this MOBO?


1. Put a USB-stick into your computer.
2. Go into bios and copy all your screens (like I show further down) with F10 or F12 (I think it says on the right side somewhere).
3. Post your bios-screenshots here
4. Somebody post back the best settings for your system.

Other than that, information about your computer, which CPU and RAM (model, frequency, mismatched or not(?), which speed and voltage). Normally X.M.P mode works good up to 2133 Mhz RAM, over that it is completely up to your CPU.


Spoiler: Take bios-screenshots like these














That is my personal bios-settings for my good/over average 4930K and some mismatched 1866 Mhz RAM.


----------



## supermiguel

how do you get your custom profiles in the main scree?


----------



## supermiguel

Here are my settings, trying to run my 3930k at 5.0 Ghz but with way lower voltages than what i have now. I was able to run the system at 5.0GHz on air at 1.40GHz using a asus x79 Deluxe, now i have a rampage Iv and good water cooling system.

Im actually running 4.9Ghz/5.0GHz using this settings but temps are not that good, loaded temps are around 70C idle around 45C


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> is there a good overclocking guide for this MOBO?


as a guide you can use the RIVE oc guides, but these are different mobos, they do behave differently however the basics are near the same


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Here are my settings, trying to run my 3930k at 5.0 Ghz but with way lower voltages than what i have now. I was able to run the system at 5.0GHz on air at 1.40GHz using a asus x79 Deluxe, now i have a rampage Iv and good water cooling system.
> 
> Im actually running 4.9Ghz/5.0GHz using this settings but temps are not that good, loaded temps are around 70C idle around 45C
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why did you disable the "Anti Surge"? Does that have anything to do with OC?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Antisurge gets tripped with high volts (when overclocking)


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> how do you get your custom profiles in the main scree?


Custom profiles? I just hit F10 (save) when I am done tweaking, I do not save my OC-settings anywhere. I am sure it is recommended though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Here are my settings, trying to run my 3930k at 5.0 Ghz but with way lower voltages than what i have now. I was able to run the system at 5.0GHz on air at 1.40GHz using a asus x79 Deluxe, now i have a rampage Iv and good water cooling system.
> 
> Im actually running 4.9Ghz/5.0GHz using this settings but temps are not that good, loaded temps are around 70C idle around 45C
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My bios-settings is 4,9 Ghz capable, have not tried 5 Ghz yet, but I will as soon as my Phase Change unit is up and running.









On the other note, lowering the voltage from 1,475 volts vcore to 1,4 volts vcore on 5 Ghz I am not sure will work, I have no idea how you are going to do that. Jpmboy, Homecinema-PC and Mega Man here might know.


----------



## supermiguel

Whats a safe temp for the 3930k? Using prime 95 i get around 70C at 1.475 and about 56 using heaven benchmark


----------



## xarot

That temp is safe but the voltage perhaps not.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> That temp is safe but the voltage perhaps not.


What do you guys consider safe voltage?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> What do you guys consider safe voltage?


1.4v is safe limit for 24/7 use according to multiple sources.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Whats a safe temp for the 3930k? Using prime 95 i get around 70C at 1.475 and about 56 using heaven benchmark


70C is fine with these CPU's.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> What do you guys consider safe voltage?


I ran my 3930K @ 1,44 volts and no problem, only at 4,6 Ghz though, if I had gotten 4,7 Ghz stable at 1,45-1,47 volts I would have used that 24/7. I bought a good 4930K instead.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 1.4v is safe limit for 24/7 use according to multiple sources.


It depends on a lot of things, cooling mostly (lower temperature = more volts).
1,4 volt is set as the "safe limit" when under water, but with 70C I do not see a problem leaving the voltage at 1,475 vc (of course degradation will happen faster).


----------



## supermiguel

i may change few things around and see how stable i can get it while lowering the temps a bit...

BCLK Freq 100 -> 125
Ratio 48 -> 40
VCORE Volt 1.475 -> 1.450
VTT CPU Volt 1.2 -> 1.15
DRAM Volt 1.5 -> 1.6
CPU PLL 1.81 -> 1.9
PCH 1.1v Volt Auto -> 1.1
CPU Power Duty T.Probe -> Extreme

From Digi+ Power menu

DRAM-AB/CD Current Cap 100% -> 120%
DRAM-AB/CD Power Phase Control Optimized -> Extreme

Now im wondering that if i have my LLCs on Ultra High if at some i would need to water cool them mosftets


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> i may change few things around and see how stable i can get it while lowering the temps a bit...
> 
> BCLK Freq 100 -> 125
> Ratio 48 -> 40
> VCORE Volt 1.475 -> 1.450
> VTT CPU Volt 1.2 -> 1.15
> DRAM Volt 1.5 -> 1.6
> CPU PLL 1.81 -> 1.9
> PCH 1.1v Volt Auto -> 1.1
> CPU Power Duty T.Probe -> Extreme
> 
> From Digi+ Power menu
> 
> DRAM-AB/CD Current Cap 100% -> 120%
> DRAM-AB/CD Power Phase Control Optimized -> Extreme
> 
> *Now im wondering that if i have my LLCs on Ultra High if at some i would need to water cool them mosftets*


With 4x R9 290X you should be thinking of water cooling Chipset and Mosfet. I know for a fact that they get very hot air-cooled with four R9 290X (I have tried gaming with it), so hot to the touch that you burn your finger(s). 60C+ on the surface easy.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Sb-e degrades north of 1.4v


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> With 4x R9 290X you should be thinking of water cooling Chipset and Mosfet. I know for a fact that they get very hot air-cooled with four R9 290X (I have tried gaming with it), so hot to the touch that you burn your finger(s). 60C+ on the surface easy.


Im water cooling my cards... but not sure if i can fit 4 of them.. I cant get the 1st one to go in... im using the alphacool 290x waterblock and the backplate may be to thick for that 1st slot...

Is touching the plastic, that is covering the ports.. can i just remove that? or i have to do something special?


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Sb-e degrades north of 1.4v


so i should find the highest clock at 1.4000v and leave it there even if my temps are low?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

pretty much, you can push for a bit more but its not recommended. those chips dont handle voltage well
also temp ceiling is 75c peaks bu t you shouldn't ereally be pushing it after the 60s


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Im water cooling my cards... but not sure if i can fit 4 of them.. I cant get the 1st one to go in... im using the alphacool 290x waterblock and the backplate may be to thick for that 1st slot...
> 
> Is touching the plastic, that is covering the ports.. can i just remove that? or i have to do something special?


I do not know about the Alphacool waterblocks, never used those.

I am water cooling four R9 290Xs myself, does not matter if the cards is water cooled, the chipset and mosfet (on the board) is still going to get hot.

As of the CPU, I would have done 1,4vc + without sweating, it all depends on how long you need the CPU to hold up. With proper cooling of course.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> pretty much, you can push for a bit more but its not recommended. *those chips dont handle voltage well*
> also temp ceiling is 75c peaks bu t you shouldn't ereally be pushing it after the 60s


Well, pretty much everyone here (on OCN) told me that 1,44vc was just fine with my 3930K a few months back. Temperature maxed out around 72C I think while P95ing, gaming it was about 65C avg.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Temperature maxed out around 72C I think while P95ing, gaming it was about 65C avg.


how about idle?


----------



## electro2u

I do think 1.44/1.45 is OK if you aren't loading it so hot all the time,,, but looking at your settings Miguel... you have everything pegged. The load line calibration setting is worrisome. I settled for 4.7 at 1.4v with High LLC 1.2 1.2 2.0 1.67 and the 1.4v vCore is coming from an offset of +.130v. Personally think I'm pushing it... you are really pushing it and I would hate for you to have to tear down and drain all those Monstas over it.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> how about idle?


About 30-35C I think.

If you are worried for your chip and do not want to destroy it I would have done less voltage, I did not care if I destroyed my chip, because I was going to get another chip anyways.

I bought my chip for 230 USD shipped, so it would not upset me too much if I destroyed it. I tried 1,456 volts CPU-Z with my 3930K, but it started to get hot at 4,7 Ghz then, then I bought the 4930K and I have used that one since that.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Im water cooling my cards... but not sure if i can fit 4 of them.. I cant get the 1st one to go in... im using the alphacool 290x waterblock and the backplate may be to thick for that 1st slot...
> 
> Is touching the plastic, that is covering the ports.. can i just remove that? or i have to do something special?


It is the backplate. I saw a similar issue while flipping through a rivbe build log on here. The guy had the same issue with back plates hitting the stationary ram pegs by the card. He ended up cutting a notch in the backplate to make it clear. Always an option if you really want to use the backplates.

as for OC guides I found this really packed with info, I plan on implementing it in the next few days myself.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> you are really pushing it and I would hate for you to have to tear down and drain all those Monstas over it.


been doing that by the hour









Specially when you think. oh wow finally everything is running how it should and then!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The sprinkler system goes wild!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> as for OC guides I found this really packed with info, I plan on implementing it in the next few days myself.


But Ivy-E... I'm not positive but I would think they aren't really totally comparable as far as maximums?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

My RIVBE's new home


----------



## electro2u

Those LD chassis are fantastic looking!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those LD chassis are fantastic looking!


Oh yes, they are. Have LOTS of goodies for this build, gone the whole nine yards for this thing to be the ultimate rig!


----------



## Wiz766

Another question here. Running a 4.2 on my 3930k and stock on KingPins SLI. How important is that lower Asus EZ power plug? The 4 pin molex at the bottom of the card? It is plugged in but do I need it?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> Another question here. Running a 4.2 on my 3930k and stock on KingPins SLI. How important is that lower Asus EZ power plug? The 4 pin molex at the bottom of the card? It is plugged in but do I need it?


Generally that is needed when doing 3-way and 4-way only, but those Kingpins could draw a lot of power (just two of them) so if you plan on modded bios and insane clocks you might want it plugged in. but I hardly think you will draw that much power that you will notice any difference @ stock clocks.
My 4-pin molex actually got quite hot while gaming with my four R9 290X's, the normal cables also got tepid.

Four R9 290Xs draw a lot more power than Kingpin SLI though. Four Kingpins and they are about the same I think.


----------



## Wiz766

Okay sweet. What is tepid?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I do not know about the Alphacool waterblocks, never used those.
> 
> I am water cooling four R9 290Xs myself, does not matter if the cards is water cooled, the chipset and mosfet (on the board) is still going to get hot.
> 
> As of the CPU, I would have done 1,4vc + without sweating, it all depends on how long you need the CPU to hold up. With proper cooling of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, pretty much everyone here (on OCN) told me that 1,44vc was just fine with my 3930K a few months back. Temperature maxed out around 72C I think while P95ing, gaming it was about 65C avg.


I am just saying I have killed one with less

my first chip degraded pretty hard
and those temps are too high for gaming

I had an h100 in the desert n pulled better temps

i had a C2 stepping and it lasted 6months probably then 2nd user wasnt able to hit the settings i used with it and had to RMA(thus why i had a protection plan)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> been doing that by the hour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specially when you think. oh wow finally everything is running how it should and then!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> The sprinkler system goes wild!!!!!!!!!!!!!


lucky for you these boards are good.

let it dry out for a day or 2 and u will be good

remove all power including battery


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> Okay sweet. What is tepid?


Lukewarm = tepid, around 30-35C. I did MSI Lightning R9 290X Crossfire (with three 6+2-pin on each card) and all my cables got hot (did not use the Molex then, this was on a RIVG board), then the cables were probably 45-50C.

I just have to ask, why buy cards that is build/constructed for sub-zero cooling and high overclocks and using them stock?


----------



## Wiz766

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I just have to ask, why buy cards that is build/constructed for sub-zero cooling and high overclocks and using them stock?


Haha People ask that a lot. Well I was coming off a Titan and wanted to go back to SLI and Newegg had the KingPins on sale. I love collecting graphics cards as well. This is my first time actually using the KingPins, I will OC them at some point once I get my entire build 100% finished. Right now its ghetto rigged. Main reason is I like over kill hehe















http://www.overclock.net/t/1486172/build-log-update-caselabs-s8-katie-v4-5-1


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> let it dry out for a day or 2 and u will be good
> 
> remove all power including battery


lol i had that board running 5 min after it


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> What do you guys consider safe voltage?
> 
> 
> 
> 1.4v is safe limit for 24/7 use according to multiple sources INTEL .
Click to expand...

fixed for you, if you want we can pull the white paper


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fixed for you, if you want we can pull the white paper


Think I saw that figure on OCN somewhere maybe the Ivy bridge guide, maybe it was in the OP of this thread? Do you think it is conservative Mega? 1.45 too much for 24/7?


----------



## Mega Man

depends on if you are ok with the possibility of loosing your chip


----------



## tatmMRKIV

well considering the guy is talking about C2 stepping 3930K...
which are notorious for degradation

like 1.45v should do 5ghz all day...


----------



## LunaP

Ok after fiddling for a while , managed to figure out how to re-embed since google docs changed things around. Skupps and Megaman if you can pm me your email I"ll add you on the editor list, and a few other regulars here.

Gonna create a Google docs sections as well for updates such as Bios/fixes/tuning/tutorials etc.

Gonna make a form to so people can fill it out so we can maintain updates and not have to miss out on those in case of flooding of information. Sorry for the wait.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> But Ivy-E... I'm not positive but I would think they aren't really totally comparable as far as maximums?


If I read the table from volume 1 properly it seems to be about right. I'd always be cautious though and look for a guide for my exact processor if possible.


----------



## supermiguel

Will the EK monoblock perform about the same as just a single CPU block?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Will the EK monoblock perform about the same as just a single CPU block?


Most likely, possibly a little better when it comes to restriction as it looks to be plumbed in parallel. I can't say for sure though as I don't own one myself. As said before though, they can be a bit of a hassle depending on your build and maintenance habits.

EDIT: Yup, the monoblocks are plumbs the PCH and the VRMs in parallel:
 picture from profezzor x


----------



## supermiguel

how often should one clean water blocks?


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Will the EK monoblock perform about the same as just a single CPU block?


I originally had the EK Supremacy Full copper block (3 yrs old). I was having higher temps (i7-4930k) than with my old i7-3820 cpu. So, I bought the EK monoblock (black) and bought a special paste (GC Extreme) and a cleaner. Result was about 1-3~ C. degrees cooler than the copper block. I didn't think that was possible because the monoblock is not copper and the cpu block is, so I learned something. Anyway, the 4930k is hotter and I could have stayed with the full copper block but wouldn't have learned anything either.

my current temps are 33-35 OC at 4.3. When not OC'd, temps are 36-39 C, go figure.

When I took the copper block, I found a little bit of 'JUNK' in the copper block but I never cleaned it in 3 years and never took it apart either. So the 'junk' was from the first build and maybe came from the radiators. I did clean the new radiators but maybe not clean enough. The copper block has fins inside that trapped the dirt. Monoblock I don't know, didn't take it apart but by now, the water is clean.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> how often should one clean water blocks?


Sheesh lol. It's likely impossible to give a definitive answer on this. My cooling loop has been the same for about 2 years now. Before I initially assembled it I flushed the rads and blocks with a warm and then cold vinegar/distilled mixture then flushed with a gallon of distilled, drained, soaked in distilled overnight. After all that I flushed the blocks with a gallon of distilled and flushed the rads with a mix of distilled and rubbing alcohol (about 85% to 15%) and flushed with distilled. I let it all dry overnight with the ports upside down and dust covers over them.

As for flushing and scrubbing; I disassemble the blocks every 2 years and flush/replace the coolant every 3. I'm apparently one of the few that has had a good experience with fluidxp coolants, so that's why it's so long between tear downs. It also likely helps that I run my system between 12 and 16 hours a day and usually 7 days a week. So far I haven't had any problems with gunk, sediment, block/plexi staining, electro-coat stripping, etc. The fluid does seem to leave behind a residue in the tubing (primoflex lrt clear) that doesn't come off and coats the res in something like a thin grease (it's hard to explain, really) the res wipes clean with a damp paper towel.

The only scrubbing I have ever really had to do was on the cpu block fins and that was just because I was being anal with this very small amount of ridging where the jetplate sat above the micro fins. The ridge was maybe .2 mm but I had the block apart anyway so I figured 'what the hell'.

I think the rule of thumb with distilled and a biocide is to flush it every 3 months and scrub it every 6, for other pre-mixed coolants i think it's usually every 6 months to a year. I think mayhem's is supposed to be flushed every 18 months, but don't quote me on that.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I think the rule of thumb with distilled and a biocide is to flush it every 3 months and scrub it every 6, for other pre-mixed coolants i think it's usually every 6 months to a year. I think mayhem's is supposed to be flushed every 18 months, but don't quote me on that.


Hmm so would it be bad that I'm only running distilled ( w/ 4-6 drops of Dead water ) and haven't changed anything out for the past 11 months? No smells or w/e and I've topped the water off since I noticed recently the water chamber wasn't completely full (still above where the water gets sucked in ) and added a few more drops in case. Also water isn't sludgy or sticky still feels the same as normal, and I do shut my machine off at night and or during the day while at work.

Was thinking of picking up the home depot flushing kit sometime around xmas and flushing out the system, then getting an air release connector and a drain connector installed this time so I won't have the same issue I'm going to have soon lol.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm so would it be bad that I'm only running distilled ( w/ 4-6 drops of Dead water ) and haven't changed anything out for the past 11 months? No smells or w/e and I've topped the water off since I noticed recently the water chamber wasn't completely full (still above where the water gets sucked in ) and added a few more drops in case. Also water isn't sludgy or sticky still feels the same as normal, and I do shut my machine off at night and or during the day while at work.
> 
> Was thinking of picking up the home depot flushing kit sometime around xmas and flushing out the system, then getting an air release connector and a drain connector installed this time so I won't have the same issue I'm going to have soon lol.


Home depot flushing kit?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm so would it be bad that I'm only running distilled ( w/ 4-6 drops of Dead water ) and haven't changed anything out for the past 11 months? No smells or w/e and I've topped the water off since I noticed recently the water chamber wasn't completely full (still above where the water gets sucked in ) and added a few more drops in case. Also water isn't sludgy or sticky still feels the same as normal, and I do shut my machine off at night and or during the day while at work.
> 
> Was thinking of picking up the home depot flushing kit sometime around xmas and flushing out the system, then getting an air release connector and a drain connector installed this time so I won't have the same issue I'm going to have soon lol.


I suppose if there is no smell, sludge, or discoloration of the water aside from whatever slight color the deadwater might add it should be ok. I can't say for sure though as I've never gone the water+biocide route.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Home depot flushing kit?


Likely just a 5 gallon bucket and a funnel lol


----------



## gdubc

Yep. Bucket, *water filter* and *pond/aquarium pump*.

Hook up your rads and flush.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I suppose if there is no smell, sludge, or discoloration of the water aside from whatever slight color the deadwater might add it should be ok. I can't say for sure though as I've never gone the water+biocide route.
> Likely just a 5 gallon bucket and a funnel lol


It's the one that's been shown on the WC every 50-100 threads, its a bucket, a fishpond pump/filter and plastic tubing.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> well considering the guy is talking about C2 stepping 3930K...
> which are notorious for degradation
> 
> like 1.45v should do 5ghz all day...


My 4930k does 5ghz on 1.38v.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> My 4930k does 5ghz on 1.38v.


And I am talking about a different CPU than a 4930K

my 4930K probably does 5ghz at about that too. its a 6144mhz chip


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm so would it be bad that I'm only running distilled ( w/ 4-6 drops of Dead water ) and haven't changed anything out for the past 11 months? No smells or w/e and I've topped the water off since I noticed recently the water chamber wasn't completely full (still above where the water gets sucked in ) and added a few more drops in case. Also water isn't sludgy or sticky still feels the same as normal, and I do shut my machine off at night and or during the day while at work.
> 
> Was thinking of picking up the home depot flushing kit sometime around xmas and flushing out the system, then getting an air release connector and a drain connector installed this time so I won't have the same issue I'm going to have soon lol.


as long as you aren't getting any corrosion
you should be good


----------



## SpecTRe-X

A question about using offset voltage. When I set the voltage mode to offset I get the -/+ option box and the offset voltage box. I need a 1.335 vcore for the clock I want. so do I add .215 to the 1.12v displayed on the CPU Vcore Voltage line? when I enter that amount into the box the value is colored red. I just want to make sure so I don't accidentally fry my chip.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> A question about using offset voltage. When I set the voltage mode to offset I get the -/+ option box and the offset voltage box. I need a 1.335 vcore for the clock I want. so do I add .215 to the 1.12v displayed on the CPU Vcore Voltage line? when I enter that amount into the box the value is colored red. I just want to make sure so I don't accidentally fry my chip.


You got it.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> You got it.


Where does that value comes from? Like on his example CPU VCORE VOLTAGE is automatically set to 1.12v, where does this value come from? auto calculated? and does this mean that the CPU will run a 1.12v at idle and 1.335 at load?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Where does that value comes from? Like on his example CPU VCORE VOLTAGE is automatically set to 1.12v, where does this value come from? auto calculated? and does this mean that the CPU will run a 1.12v at idle and 1.335 at load?


I think 1.12v is the baseline for all 4820Ks. I say baseline because when I did my testing to find the lowest loaded vcore at stock speeds I couldn't run stable below 1.136 actual. I don't know how factual that assumption may be but it seems fairly logical; assign a baseline and then assign a positive or negative modifier ontop of that after testing the chip to tell the mobo exactly where that chip has to be run at.

EDIT: I think I posted this earlier but my idle voltage is actually .765 to .8v

Thanks for the confirmation on the offset voltage, too. That will difinitely come in handy!


----------



## supermiguel

Sorry but i dont get what offset does, for me when i set my clock to 5.0 and put it on offset it says 1.5v so if i set it to +.100 it will run at 1.5 at load?? And if it set it at -.100 it will run at 1.4 idle and 1.5 load?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Sorry but i dont get what offset does, for me when i set my clock to 5.0 and put it on offset it says 1.5v so if i set it to +.100 it will run at 1.5 at load?? And if it set it at -.100 it will run at 1.4 idle and 1.5 load?


In your example you would be running a 5Ghz clock with a 1.6 vcore (1.5v plus the .1 offset) at load and if you set a negative offset you'd run that same 5Ghz clock at 1.4vcore (1.5vcore minus .1v offset) at load. Positive and negative offsets are applied to idle voltage _*AND*_ load voltage. Obviously I can't say what your idle voltage would be as I don't know what it is before a given offset.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> In your example you would be running a 5Ghz clock with a 1.6 vcore (1.5v plus the .1 offset) at load and if you set a negative offset you'd run that same 5Ghz clock at 1.4vcore (1.5vcore minus .1v offset) at load. Positive and negative offsets are applied to idle voltage _*AND*_ load voltage. Obviously I can't say what your idle voltage would be as I don't know what it is before a given offset.


So it remembers the manual voltage i set before offset? Whats the point of neg offset why would i want to run my cpu at 1.6 idle and at 1.5 load?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> So it remembers the manual voltage i set before offset? Whats the point of neg offset why would i want to run my cpu at 1.6 idle and at 1.5 load?


You misunderstand. Okay, so you have a 5Ghz clock, now normally you'd have 2 options for power, either A) you use automatic voltage and are able to use C-States and EIST or B) you use a manual voltage and are always pushing teh same voltage to teh CPU.

Offsets allow you to somewhat tune your voltage allowing you to set an increased or decreased voltage level while also being able to use C-States and EIST.

What ever you set the offset to it applied to both the load and idle voltage level. Say my idle voltage is .6v and my load voltage is 1.275v and I wanted to add .3v to make an OC stable. My new voltages would be .9v at idle and 1.575v at load, make sense?

Inversely, if I used a negative offset of .02 to trim the stock voltage a bit then my voltages would be .58 at idle and 1.255 load.

EDIT: As far as I can tell it *DOES NOT* remember the manually entered voltage.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> You misunderstand. Okay, so you have a 5Ghz clock, now normally you'd have 2 options for power, either A) you use automatic voltage and are able to use C-States and EIST or B) you use a manual voltage and are always pushing teh same voltage to teh CPU.
> 
> Offsets allow you to somewhat tune your voltage allowing you to set an increased or decreased voltage level while also being able to use C-States and EIST.
> 
> What ever you set the offset to it applied to both the load and idle voltage level. Say my idle voltage is .6v and my load voltage is 1.275v and I wanted to add .3v to make an OC stable. My new voltages would be .9v at idle and 1.575v at load, make sense?
> 
> Inversely, if I used a negative offset of .02 to trim the stock voltage a bit then my voltages would be .58 at idle and 1.255 load.
> 
> EDIT: As far as I can tell it *DOES NOT* remember the manually entered voltage.


But where does you base voltage comes from? Like if my offset is +.1 vcore will be what? X+.1? Whats X? Hehe


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> But where does you base voltage comes from? Like if my offset is +.1 vcore will be what? X+.1? Whats X? Hehe


It's auto generated by the bios.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> as long as you aren't getting any corrosion
> you should be good


Hmm would there be any noticeable signs in my tubing/resevoir that I could look out for, I have 2 reservoirs, 1 inside w/ a light (XSPC ) and the bay res which has lights as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> A question about using offset voltage. When I set the voltage mode to offset I get the -/+ option box and the offset voltage box. I need a 1.335 vcore for the clock I want. so do I add .215 to the 1.12v displayed on the CPU Vcore Voltage line? when I enter that amount into the box the value is colored red. I just want to make sure so I don't accidentally fry my chip.


Hmm I've been meaning to take the next step and begin undervolting, btw since we're on the topic, have there been any worth while bios updates for the board since april? Hoping they've tweaked things better so I can get a bit more juice out of my chip. Running my 4960 @ 4.5 w/ 64gb @ 2133 is as optimal as I'm getting, but I have those settings saved for when winter gets colder. However since I'm getting a new laptop soon and will be undergoing some undervolting tests, I figured now's a good time to start testing and learning. I've yet to even get my memory timings down correctly since I still need a better break down on how to calculate them out for best stability with loosening lol.

Damn I've been gone a while, and I'm sure theres a HUGE amount of useful info in this thread, which is why I"m still updating the OP with google widgets so others can add in in case I get super busy.

Btw @ Skupples if you're still around I FINALLY got my WSGF monitor stand in ( version 2 comes w/ both bars as well ) and I have to say I do love it, holds all 4 Qnix monitors perfectly w/ room to spare, thanks again for that mention back in feb







<3


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Btw @ Skupples if you're still around I FINALLY got my WSGF monitor stand in ( version 2 comes w/ both bars as well ) and I have to say I do love it, holds all 4 Qnix monitors perfectly w/ room to spare, thanks again for that mention back in feb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <3


not really you have to get a good shot of the metal...

I'd just change it to be on the safe side for ur situation

personally i might tear down and clean... but thats just ridiculous old me


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm would there be any noticeable signs in my tubing/resevoir that I could look out for, I have 2 reservoirs, 1 inside w/ a light (XSPC ) and the bay res which has lights as well.
> Hmm I've been meaning to take the next step and begin undervolting, btw since we're on the topic, have there been any worth while bios updates for the board since april? Hoping they've tweaked things better so I can get a bit more juice out of my chip. Running my 4960 @ 4.5 w/ 64gb @ 2133 is as optimal as I'm getting, but I have those settings saved for when winter gets colder. However since I'm getting a new laptop soon and will be undergoing some undervolting tests, I figured now's a good time to start testing and learning. I've yet to even get my memory timings down correctly since I still need a better break down on how to calculate them out for best stability with loosening lol.
> 
> Damn I've been gone a while, and I'm sure theres a HUGE amount of useful info in this thread, which is why I"m still updating the OP with google widgets so others can add in in case I get super busy.
> 
> Btw @ Skupples if you're still around I FINALLY got my WSGF monitor stand in ( version 2 comes w/ both bars as well ) and I have to say I do love it, holds all 4 Qnix monitors perfectly w/ room to spare, thanks again for that mention back in feb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <3


4 qnix??????


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> not really you have to get a good shot of the metal...
> 
> I'd just change it to be on the safe side for ur situation
> 
> personally i might tear down and clean... but thats just ridiculous old me


Wait wut? hella confused right now, did you mean to quote someone else or?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> 4 qnix??????


Yup

Qnix II the korean 27" monitors @ 1440p


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wait wut? hella confused right now, did you mean to quote someone else or?
> Yup
> 
> Qnix II the korean 27" monitors @ 1440p


*** thats a bit more than 4 of them


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> *** thats a bit more than 4 of them


Nope count again, only 4 QNIX in the photo lol.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

well stuff builds up and I would want to make sure theres not damage to my expensive blocks


----------



## xarot

LunaP did you ever get the problems with your board sorted out? You didn't swap the board?


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> But where does you base voltage comes from? Like if my offset is +.1 vcore will be what? X+.1? Whats X? Hehe


I think it's mostly depending on chip. You need to use auto voltage with a specific multiplier and boot to Windows, then you need to check what the voltage is under load. Write that voltage down and go to BIOS, this is the 'X' voltage you need to adjust using +/-.

For example if you'd boot into Windows and CPU-Z shows 1.35 V but you only want to run 1.28 V, you need to use offset -0.070.

Then there's the additional turbo multiplier option but I've never gone that route.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> LunaP did you ever get the problems with your board sorted out? You didn't swap the board?


Nope apparently ASUS never made anymore boards because the ETA kept moving further and further out for a replacement so I gave up. If I ever see a store selling one I"ll just buy it, bring it home, swap it out and return mine ( even one of the reps recommended I just do that even after I seriously joked about it lol ) only problem is Fry's and other stores around here don't believe in high end equip, their new management over the years has focused on the lesser valued motherboards and hardware vendors. Would be nice though..









That or just wait for skylake and upgrade then if its worth the time. I'm honestly unsure if I"m missing out much by running 16x8x8 vs 16x8x16 though I'm sure somewhere it would make a slight diff given my monitor setup.

Surprised you remembered lol.

Noticed you had the 5960x and the new asus extreme V, hows that working out for you?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol yeah our fry's doesn't even get the ASUS RoG monitors last I checked.
to be completely honest I didn't even think they would carry 5960x chips
u go to the 43rd n t-bird one or the one in south phx?
t-bird one never has any good boards
I was flat out amazed to see anything worth buying from them when z97 dropped. I got a soc force

Luckily they have a great return policy for binning chips or I wouldnt give them ANY bussiness


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> lol yeah our fry's doesn't even get the ASUS RoG monitors last I checked.
> to be completely honest I didn't even think they would carry 5960x chips
> u go to the 43rd n t-bird one or the one in south phx?
> t-bird one never has any good boards
> I was flat out amazed to see anything worth buying from them when z97 dropped. I got a soc force
> 
> Luckily they have a great return policy for binning chips or I wouldnt give them ANY bussiness


Funny you mention that , and yeah the one @ 35th and Thunderbird is where I picked up my 4960X

They have lots of un-inventoried stock you just have to ask the right person that actually knows how to do their job to look. They had none listed on the site or anything however in their lil terminal system they managed to procure that they had 2.

Fun rant


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I don't go in much anymore because I"m tired of dealing w/ the failed / less than intelligent managers and floor sup's that attempt to initiate a sale w/ the most insane logic ever. They had a 4k Monitor that wasn't plugged into the PC next to it but it was on, I asked to plug it in as I wanted to take a quick look, the manager sat there giving me a 20 minute lecture on how if someone were to catch a cable hanging from the back of the monitor while I was looking at it and want to buy it that they would be upset that the cable wouldn't come w/ it since we're borrowing from another model so he wants to avoid such a chaotic act.

He then proceeded to tell me I should just purchase it and take it home and I have 2 weeks to decide if I like it or not. I stepped back and pardoned my intrusion on his intelligence and asked if there was someone competent I could speak with. He exclaimed he was the manager, and that there was no one higher than him, I then thanked him for coming up w/ the idea of Fry's Electronics and exclaimed it might be time to step down as the CEO shouldn't be in the tech section of the store and should leave it to people that know how to run/work in the business.



Anywhoo other than that I go in there for cables/converters etc and sometimes to price match some NewEgg items. As for the Tempe store ( which is near my school ) they usually have better stock, I'm just surprised that they discontinued Asus extreme brands ( informed from multiple sources in the store including a few competent employees which I know well ) it's a shame we don't have a Microcenter out here.

What part of Phoenix are you in ?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I live in North Glendale..

all I can say is to avoid managers at all cxost. LOL I was getting harrassed by a manager because one of his employees gave me a slip for 2 4790K processors(I ended up taking them back, along with the board and just buying a prebinned cpu and a newegg mobo) but I told the employee that I needed 2 processors and even asked about batch numbers and he gave me that slip for 2. got to check out and for whatever reason their computers werent processing the slip so I had to run back to processors for a second slip. Got there guy says, I don't know how you got a slip for 2 processors and wouldnt give me a slip for a single processor without checking their fancy database to make sure I hadn't already purchased one. Luckily I had a buddy with me cuz they were not gonna sell 2 processors to me.

I would have a 5960X already if they hadn't been so shady about their sale time either. I was trying to find my fry's card and thought i had plenty of time at 10pm. for 900$ 5960Xs and 11 rolled around so I gave up looking and suddenly they have no stock anywhere....

really I'd be done with them, completely, if amazon didn't charge us tax as well.

they brought me into their store over the phone by lying to me, saying they price matched Microcenter for 4770K

I wish we had aglorious microcenter here


----------



## V3teran

If anybody needs help with overclocking or undervolting via offset then let me know and ill post what i know.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> If anybody needs help with overclocking or undervolting via offset then let me know and ill post what i know.


Post it up


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> If anybody needs help with overclocking or undervolting via offset then let me know and ill post what i know.


Yes please, i can only seem to get 4.2 @ 1.296v i would be happy with 4.3 @ 1.280v


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Yes please, i can only seem to get 4.2 @ 2.96v i would be happy with 4.3 @ 2.80v


Those voltages have to be a typo, right?


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Those voltages have to be a typo, right?


Nope, i lucked out with the cpu lottery


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Those voltages have to be a typo, right?


oops your right lol


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Yes please, i can only seem to get 4.2 @ 1.296v i would be happy with 4.3 @ 1.280v


Boy, I was going to say, I can go all the way up to 4.4GHz on 1.25v with offset, but once I try for that 4.5GHz, she will not go any higher no matter how many volts I toss at it! Well, I take that back, I can run 4.5GHz with like 1.425v, but I think we can all agree, forget that! I am happpy with my low voltage 4.3GHz overclock. I mean, it is ~25% faster than stock, and for free, eeffectively...


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Post it up


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Yes please, i can only seem to get 4.2 @ 1.296v i would be happy with 4.3 @ 1.280v


Sorry guys had a busy weekend will post them up when I get home later.
Im running at 4.2 ht on with 1.05v stable in prime FFT 

I did post them way back in this thread.....

Edit here it is, some nice information here give or take a few pages either way.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/9920#post_22795511


----------



## Shaolin7

Does anyone here use the Rampage IV BE in conjunction with the Noctua NH-D15 cooler? I know on the Noctua site it says that this cooler blocks the first PCI-E 16x slot, but does anyone have any first hand experience to relate? I know I can use slot 4 for PCI-E 3.0 16x, but I was curious if anyone had tried this combo before. Thank you!


----------



## reev3r

Alright, I know this is off topic, but I wanted to post here, number one because I am so excited! Number two because I believe that with all of the sweet-sauce builds I have been seeing it will be useful to someone, and three, because I am confident that someone will show me where it would fit in the forums...

I was able to get a power switch custom made for $14.29! Unfortunately I have been searching everywhere under the sun and the slight glow of an LED strip, for a 19mm momentary switch with white LED Halo and power logo... I can find it in blue, red, green, orange, probably even brown, but not white. I can also find it in 16mm white, but not 19..

So, on eBay I finally resorted to messaging everyone with a switch that came even close, or looked at all custom, asking if they had what I am looking for. Nobody did...

Although I did receive a response from a guy in China, telling me that although he doesn't have it, he could make it for me... "CUSTOM MADE SWITCH?", I thought, "That is going to cost me $75!", but for the need to satiate my curiosity, I gave my requirements (except I noobed out and forgot black), and he gave me a price, not an estimate, he actually told me that the switch will cost $14.29, to which I double checked that he knew exactly what I meant, I double-checked three times, that is, I asked him a total of six times, "Are you certain?"...

Anyhow, it took a few days, but I received a message this morning explaining that he is sorry it took so long (took so long? 3 days... Pfft), but here is the listing number...

It is beautiful! It will be going in my STH10, but alas, it is silver, which is my own fault...

So, based on the service at least, this guy was fantastic! Speaks great English, and got it done for me quickly. If the quality is half as good as my communication experience, this thing is going to be amazing!

The seller is baomainelec, with a great variety of switches (even with text on them), and other electrical equipment. The switch they made me is auction #:171546078386 if you are interested.

Additionally, if anybody has any suggestions on how I can easily paint this black, please let me know. It would be greatly appreciated!

I really hope that this post can help someone to add the finishing touch to their next rig!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Does anyone here use the Rampage IV BE in conjunction with the Noctua NH-D15 cooler? I know on the Noctua site it says that this cooler blocks the first PCI-E 16x slot, but does anyone have any first hand experience to relate? I know I can use slot 4 for PCI-E 3.0 16x, but I was curious if anyone had tried this combo before. Thank you!


Looks like it will block the top pic-e slot from what I've seen with it mounted on other boards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Additionally, if anybody has any suggestions on how I can easily paint this black, please let me know. It would be greatly appreciated!


I'd do it in stages. Get some clear gorilla tape and tape the whole front surface off. next take an exacto knife and cut between the outer housing and the plexi of the button, remove the tape over the housing and paint it (may need to slightly rough it with a dremel first) paint and let dry.

For the button do as above except remove the tape over the button (obviously







). take some clear silicone caulking and carefully apply it over the clear plexi of the button. take care not to push it too far into the joints or removing it will be difficult. let it set overnight and then paint the button.

you can apply the clear coat while you still have the clear plexi covered but it would likely be better to clear coat the whole thing. The silicone should easily peal off, mount and you should be good to go.

Frogtape would also work and is certainly easier to cut if you wanted to use tape throughout instead of trying the silicone caulk, the small power symbol in the center will likely be difficult to cover regardless of the medium used though. Is disassembling it not an option?

Hope it helps!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I'd do it in stages. Get some clear gorilla tape and tape the whole front surface off. next take an exacto knife and cut between the outer housing and the plexi of the button, remove the tape over the housing and paint it (may need to slightly rough it with a dremel first) paint and let dry.
> 
> For the button do as above except remove the tape over the button (obviously
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). take some clear silicone caulking and carefully apply it over the clear plexi of the button. take care not to push it too far into the joints or removing it will be difficult. let it set overnight and then paint the button.
> 
> you can apply the clear coat while you still have the clear plexi covered but it would likely be better to clear coat the whole thing. The silicone should easily peal off, mount and you should be good to go.
> 
> Frogtape would also work and is certainly easier to cut if you wanted to use tape throughout instead of trying the silicone caulk, the small power symbol in the center will likely be difficult to cover regardless of the medium used though. Is disassembling it not an option?
> 
> Hope it helps!


I had actually considered using some kind of lubricant over the face of the switch where the halo and logo are, that way anything I paint on Will not even stick and should be easily wiped off, it will definitely require some testing to be certain of how it needs to be handled. Additionally, I had considered using the frog tape and/or the clear tape method, but after doing some work with the scroll wheel of my Logitech G502 (Proteus Core) mouse wheel mod, it was just too difficult to handle in small areas.

Also, I will be finishing up a guide on how to fix the complaints about the mouse wheel being too tight (which I wholly agree with). I did try to coat it with plasti-dip spray, but I could not put on a coat thick enough to handle continuous use without peeling. So I need to figure out a different solution for getting it more rough, as my fingers slide too much to make it work at its best. However, my mod does work quite well indeed! Will link to the guide later for those interested, it will work just as well on pretty much any mouse that has a tight scroll wheel, especially many Logitech models with the freespin function.

Thanks for the advice!


----------



## Shaolin7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Looks like it will block the top pic-e slot from what I've seen with it mounted on other boards.


Thanks very much SpecTRe-X! Further to that then -- if I drop down and use the PCI-e slot 4 on the Rampage IV BE, will that drop my performance at all (as I have heard that the top PCI-e slot is always the best to use)? Sorry to ask if that's an ignorant question, btw.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Thanks very much SpecTRe-X! Further to that then -- if I drop down and use the PCI-e slot 4 on the Rampage IV BE, will that drop my performance at all (as I have heard that the top PCI-e slot is always the best to use)? Sorry to ask if that's an ignorant question, btw.


There shouldn't be any appreciable difference in performance on any of the x16 PCIe slots.only two of them are wired for x16 operation (1 and 4), and even the x8 slots should show no difference, since they are running PCIe 3.0.

As an example, I ran one of my GTX 670's in the top slot, and then tried the bottom most x16 slot, and even though it is wired for x8 operation, it made no difference in performance.

So you should be fine.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Thanks for the advice!


Any time!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Thanks very much SpecTRe-X! Further to that then -- if I drop down and use the PCI-e slot 4 on the Rampage IV BE, will that drop my performance at all (as I have heard that the top PCI-e slot is always the best to use)? Sorry to ask if that's an ignorant question, btw.


Any time. As for your question, basically what reev3r said above. 1 and 4 are x16 wired and if you're running a PCI-e 2.0 card then you wouldn't loose any performance in slot 2 either. If you're running a higher end gen 3 (PCI-E 3.0) I'd running it in slot 4, but that's just me.

By the way, ignorant implies a lack of knowledge which is only fixed by asking or seeking knowledge. The phrase is 'stupid question' and the only stupid question is the one you don't ask


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> By the way, ignorant implies a lack of knowledge which is only fixed by asking or seeking knowledge. The phrase is 'stupid question' and the only stupid question is the one you don't ask


I thank you greatly! I genuinely wish that more people had a grasp of what ignorance means!!! I always try to enunciated words in a way that helps people to understand... In this case I enunciated it as ignore-ant, the root word there folks, is ignore... Not stupid... lol We are all ignorant in some way or another.  I am ignorant of the complexities of many of the settings in the UEFI, I do my best to fight ignorance within myself, to learn as much as I can about everything I can, and it feels great!

Yay for you NOT having ignorance!  lol


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I thank you greatly! I genuinely wish that more people had a grasp of what ignorance means!!! I always try to enunciated words in a way that helps people to understand... In this case I enunciated it as ignore-ant, the root word there folks, is ignore... Not stupid... lol We are all ignorant in some way or another.  I am ignorant of the complexities of many of the settings in the UEFI, I do my best to fight ignorance within myself, to learn as much as I can about everything I can, and it feels great!
> 
> Yay for you NOT having ignorance!  lol


Thanks man, and you and me both with those UEFI settings lol


----------



## Wiz766

I've never noticed this before but with the PCI lane switches are they always lite up orange? I have KingPins in lane 1&3. Just got done swapping out so panels on my case and just seemed to notice that the LED for lane 1&3 are illuminated.

I have all 4 in the on position but LEDs of 1&3 are on, is that bad?

Motherboard also says code AA, but I have no clue what that is or means


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> I've never noticed this before but with the PCI lane switches are they always lite up orange? I have KingPins in lane 1&3. Just got done swapping out so panels on my case and just seemed to notice that the LED for lane 1&3 are illuminated.
> 
> I have all 4 in the on position but LEDs of 1&3 are on, is that bad?
> 
> Motherboard also says code AA, but I have no clue what that is or means


The lights on 1 and 3 are supposed to be on since those are populated. You're good.

AA is boot code for normal operation.

I do not understand why I get code 40 sometimes like other my Maximus boards and AA sometimes on this board. Something about RAM timings.


----------



## Wiz766

Thanks man! I just never really noticed anything before. She seems to be running fine. I have noticed that the ram with this board is picky on the timing, but hey it works!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> I've never noticed this before but with the PCI lane switches are they always lite up orange? I have KingPins in lane 1&3. Just got done swapping out so panels on my case and just seemed to notice that the LED for lane 1&3 are illuminated.
> 
> I have all 4 in the on position but LEDs of 1&3 are on, is that bad?
> 
> Motherboard also says code AA, but I have no clue what that is or means


Hey there, just a suggestion, but be sure to disable to PCIe slots that you are not using. If they are in the 'on' position it drops the number of lanes on PCIe 3 to x8 instead of x16...


----------



## Wiz766

Ill give that a try!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I do not understand why I get code 40 sometimes like other my Maximus boards and AA sometimes on this board. Something about RAM timings.


Is it after waking the rig from sleep? I get a 30 code after waking mine for some reason. I've seen AE after boot once or twice too for whatever reason.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Hey there, just a suggestion, but be sure to disable to PCIe slots that you are not using. If they are in the 'on' position it drops the number of lanes on PCIe 3 to x8 instead of x16...


The second PCI-E x16 slot down is hardwired at x8 electrical if I'm not mistaken (Slot 3 is actually a pci-e x1 slot unless you're counting by the I/O blanking plate slots). I also don't think it matters where the switches are unless the matching slot is populated with a card of some sort. Granted I haven't tried to run my tri-sli setup in 1, 4, and 6 either so I can't say for sure.

@Wiz766 For x16 bandwidth on both cards you want to use slots 1 and 4 (counting the actual slots and not the I/O planking plate slots







).


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Is it after waking the rig from sleep? I get a 30 code after waking mine for some reason. I've seen AE after boot once or twice too for whatever reason.
> The second PCI-E x16 slot down is hardwired at x8 electrical if I'm not mistaken (Slot 3 is actually a pci-e x1 slot unless you're counting by the I/O blanking plate slots). I also don't think it matters where the switches are unless the matching slot is populated with a card of some sort. Granted I haven't tried to run my tri-sli setup in 1, 4, and 6 either so I can't say for sure.
> 
> @Wiz766 For x16 bandwidth on both cards you want to use slots 1 and 4 (counting the actual slots and not the I/O planking plate slots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Indeed, I should have clarified, when talking about a specific slot 'size', I count according to that slot, it keeps things easier, that way there is none of the, 'not counting the empty spaces', or, 'counting PCIe slots, and not I/O slots' malarkey. 

Usually I am specific about that, but in this case, my error I most certainly did not specify. My apologies. 

Additionally, I can testify to the fact that it does indeed matter when running multiple cards. I have two 670's in SLI, and I could not for the life of me figure out why the second card, in x16 slot #3 was running in x8 mode (I have a fantastic gadget that shows me if SLI is enabled or not, and how many lanes a given card is using, if interested, go check out THIS WEBSITE for some great gadgets!!!), and spend quite a lot of time trying to figure it out, with many back and forth sessions in this very forum... At one point I decided to just give it a try and disabled the other two PCIe x16 slots, and shazam! Both cards running in x16 mode!!!

So yeah, just a little tidbit to share with those running in SLI. Granted, the performance difference is zero, but it is the principle of the thing that really matters I feel...


----------



## Zimzoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Sorry guys had a busy weekend will post them up when I get home later.
> Im running at 4.2 ht on with 1.05v stable in prime FFT
> 
> I did post them way back in this thread.....
> 
> Edit here it is, some nice information here give or take a few pages either way.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/9920#post_22795511


Thanks mate, got it down to 1.248v @ 4.3:thumb:


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Thanks mate, got it down to 1.248v @ 4.3:thumb:


No worries, any help you need or questions then let me know


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Additionally, I can testify to the fact that it does indeed matter when running multiple cards. I have two 670's in SLI, and I could not for the life of me figure out why the second card, in x16 slot #3 was running in x8 mode and spent quite a lot of time trying to figure it out, with many back and forth sessions in this very forum... At one point I decided to just give it a try and disabled the other two PCIe x16 slots, and shazam! Both cards running in x16 mode!!!


That's odd, did you ever look into the 'GPU Post' section of the bios to see the slot speeds? I have a 1, 2, 3 setup (counting by your method) and the GPU Post shows that 1 and 3 are both running at x16 while the x8 electrical runs at, surprisingly enough







, x8.


----------



## SylvanicMunk

can anyone tell me the distance (center to center) of the PCIE x16 slots? hoping to get this response in mm. thanks


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SylvanicMunk*
> 
> can anyone tell me the distance (center to center) of the PCIE x16 slots? hoping to get this response in mm. thanks


Somewhere around 42-44mm. That's just with a ruler though over my gfx cards.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SylvanicMunk*
> 
> can anyone tell me the distance (center to center) of the PCIE x16 slots? hoping to get this response in mm. thanks


I measured 41mm plus or minus about half a mm.

Darlene


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> That's odd, did you ever look into the 'GPU Post' section of the bios to see the slot speeds? I have a 1, 2, 3 setup (counting by your method) and the GPU Post shows that 1 and 3 are both running at x16 while the x8 electrical runs at, surprisingly enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , x8.


Yeah, I checked the BIOS first, thinking the software was wrong, but the BIOS said the same thing.

Do you have the fourth slot enabled or disabled? I wonder if that makes a difference, perhaps it is just the last slot that needs to be disabled...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Yeah, I checked the BIOS first, thinking the software was wrong, but the BIOS said the same thing.
> 
> Do you have the fourth slot enabled or disabled? I wonder if that makes a difference, perhaps it is just the last slot that needs to be disabled...


I haven't disabled any of my 4 PEG PCIE slot switches and I get x16 on both 1&3 says GPU-Z.

If I put a sound card in PEG slot 4 (the very bottom slot), PEG slot 3 drops to PCIE 3.0 x8


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I haven't disabled any of my 4 PEG PCIE slot switches and I get x16 on both 1&3 says GPU-Z.
> 
> If I put a sound card in PEG slot 4 (the very bottom slot), PEG slot 3 drops to PCIE 3.0 x8


Then that is likely the issue, I had a sound card installed as well.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Then that is likely the issue, I had a sound card installed as well.


It surprised me.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It surprised me.


It is quite surprising, you would think that it would automatically allocate the lanes properly without flipping the DIP switch if the other slots are unused. Kind of odd...


----------



## electro2u

I believe the rampage V has lane width adjustment options into the bios


----------



## SylvanicMunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Somewhere around 42-44mm. That's just with a ruler though over my gfx cards.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I measured 41mm plus or minus about half a mm.
> 
> Darlene


looks like there is some discrepancy.. does ASUS have some sort of official dimension graphic or something?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SylvanicMunk*
> 
> looks like there is some discrepancy.. does ASUS have some sort of official dimension graphic or something?


Darlene's measurement is likely more accurate than mine if she measured the actual board and not over the gfx cards like I did. May I ask what you need such accurate measurements for? If you have your own board you can always go out and buy a micrometer and measure yourself









I should also note that unless the person giving you the measurement is using a calibrated micrometer there will be a slight variance from one measure to the next and that variance will depend on the material composition and structural dimensions of the measuring tool.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SylvanicMunk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Somewhere around 42-44mm. That's just with a ruler though over my gfx cards.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I measured 41mm plus or minus about half a mm.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> looks like there is some discrepancy.. does ASUS have some sort of official dimension graphic or something?
Click to expand...

I had some more time, and went back and measured with a good scale from the center of the PCB thickness from one GPU to the next and to the next in a quadfire setup with rigid bridge to keep the cards exactly aligned.

*The spacing is exactly 40mm.*

Darlene


----------



## SylvanicMunk

thanks, Darlene!


----------



## skupples

So, we decided a long time ago that random restarts w/o BSOD were almost always memory / memory controller related, correct?

either way. My 3930k is officially dead to me. It can now only handle 4.4 @ 1600mhz @ the same volts it use to do 5.0 @ 2133, SO! I've picked up a 4930k, and will be exploiting (not in the negative sense, yes this is directed at YOU) my Intel OC warranty so that I can resell a BNIB/Refurb 3930k to recoup 99% of the price of the 4930k. I snagged the 4930k for $460 shipped, it's BNIB, and i'm REALLY hoping that its not from the first stepping. ANYTHING but the first stepping will make me happy.

This 4930k = I can finally run my 32GB Trident X 2400mhz kit @ its rated speeds























wait... @LunaP IS ALIVE!?!?!

That picture is FLIPPING AMAZING BRO!


----------



## xarot

Depends, if you have problems where the system completely shuts down and starts again under stress, then it's related to the CPU Current Capability being too low.

I think 4930K only has one stepping unlike first 39xx chips?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Depends, if you have problems where the system completely shuts down and starts again under stress, then it's related to the CPU Current Capability being too low.
> 
> I think 4930K only has one stepping unlike first 39xx chips?


Isn't there even a recommendation for the 6-core chips to run at something like 180% current capability on this board? I know one guy on the asus forums was having issues with restarts and raja told him to raise it to 180%! IIRC he was at stock speeds too but I can't recall for sure.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Isn't there even a recommendation for the 6-core chips to run at something like 180% current capability on this board? I know one guy on the asus forums was having issues with restarts and raja told him to raise it to 180%! IIRC he was at stock speeds too but I can't recall for sure.


Well, I was suggested the same over here. My 4960X would shut down even at auto settings everywhere if I used XMP. It doesn't hurt anything to set it to 180 %, the CPU only uses power it needs, CC is only the limiter. For me, one of the BIOSes fixed it for good.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Depends, if you have problems where the system completely shuts down and starts again under stress, then it's related to the CPU Current Capability being too low.
> 
> I think 4930K only has one stepping unlike first 39xx chips?


Current is set to max, which is 160%. The chip is simply degrading really fast at this point.

Volts that I used to use for 5.0 @ 2133 can now only push 4.2 @ 1600mhz.

Either way, I picked up a 4930k, should be here by Friday.

I know the tweaks for this board, I've had it since day one.

Setting max current is pretty much a requirement for sandy bridge on this board, and is even recommend for Ivy as well. Its pretty much the first thing you have to do, or you will crash during post.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Current is set to max, which is 160%. The chip is simply degrading really fast at this point.
> 
> Volts that I used to use for 5.0 @ 2133 can now only push 4.2 @ 1600mhz.
> 
> Either way, I picked up a 4930k, should be here by Friday.
> 
> I know the tweaks for this board, I've had it since day one.
> 
> Setting max current is pretty much a requirement for sandy bridge on this board, and is even recommend for Ivy as well. Its pretty much the first thing you have to do, or you will crash during post.


I did the same as you do now, went from 3930K to 4930K, one of the best upgrades I have done with my system. I had some problems with my 3930K with this board, seems like the 4930K is a better match with this board than the 3930K. I had a Asus Rampage IV Gene before the Black Edition, then it was another story, seemed to be the "right" generation of CPU for that board. That is just what I felt, of course I went from poor 3930K to good 4930K clocking-wise.

Could you share with us how long and at which voltage/settings you were using the 3930K before it degraded that much? I would appreciate it. Thanks.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I did the same as you do now, went from 3930K to 4930K, one of the best upgrades I have done with my system. I had some problems with my 3930K with this board, seems like the 4930K is a better match with this board than the 3930K. I had a Asus Rampage IV Gene before the Black Edition, then it was another story, seemed to be the "right" generation of CPU for that board. That is just what I felt, of course I went from poor 3930K to good 4930K clocking-wise.
> 
> Could you share with us how long and at which voltage/settings you were using the 3930K before it degraded that much? I would appreciate it. Thanks.


The chip was already heavily used when I got it, but I was running it @ 1.45V w/ 1.2ish VTT/VCCSA from the day the board released.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The chip was already heavily used when I got it, but I was running it @ 1.45V w/ 1.2ish VTT/VCCSA from the day the board released.


Okay, I see.









I start to get exited for my RIVBE, 4930K and the phase change unit, in the near future I will start to insulate the board.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Well, I was suggested the same over here. My 4960X would shut down even at auto settings everywhere if I used XMP. It doesn't hurt anything to set it to 180 %, the CPU only uses power it needs, CC is only the limiter. For me, one of the BIOSes fixed it for good.


Yeah, it's like a circuit breaker.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Current is set to max, which is 160%.


Only 160? what bios are you using, on 0801 it goes to 200% (granted its a red setting but still). Too bad about the chip though.


----------



## reev3r

Hey there my buddy @SpecTRe-X! I just wanted to let you know that I have both of my GPU's running at 1,293MHz stable. Not sure why, but increasing the offset any higher does nothing. It will absolutely NOT go past that. Once I hit the 105MHz offset it ju led to 1,293 and even after jumping up to 130 in 5MHz increments it just floats at that maximum. So I am a little bit disappointed by that. But hey! I got an extra 13MHz!!! Totally makes a WORLD of difference! lol

I also finally found the best solution for my STH10 'Magnet Mod' to replace the HORRIBLE ball and socket retention system. I have one door completed, after much trial and error with various magnets, and it seems that the 15mm x 10mm x 2mm N50 neodymium magnets are really perfect for this application, then I cut to size and used a piece of hard rubber I planned on using as a gasket for my radiator/fan seal (my radiator came with a gasket, so it worked out) as a spacer, and affixed the rubber pieces to each other and the magnet with Plasti-Dip, and after letting that dry I coated the entire outside in it as well. My reason for that way twofold, firstly to prevent the magnets from chipping when they come together, and additionally because the rubber is a sort of rust color, and then the magnets are shiny nickel plated (though I did want black nickel.), so I opted to just 'paint' the whole thing with the dip, although I could have just used my spray Plasti-Dip, that is more expensive so I just dealt with the messy tube and brushing it on with a dental pick/floss thingy...

I am still trying to get my DIT Demciflex filters figured out. I really haven't yet found a good, reliable way to coat the edges of my cloth with the Plasti-Dip. I know that securing the magnets to it will be simple, same with getting them on the panels. I really wish that I had a sort of mold I could drop the fabric into and then just pour the PD into it and let it set, but alas, I've nothing of the sort. Though I did consider making something with either fiberglass or Instamorph, but I really don't have the confidence to do that just yet. Although the instamorph would be easy and reversible. Still working out the details on my 'CaseSink' mod though, since my band saw blade broke, and I haven't obtained a replacement I am not certain I have enough polished aluminum to finish just yet... Either way, hopefully in the next few weeks I have all of my projects done, including my 10-probe temperature display (and also, hopefully logger and graphed as well, at least if I can sort out the touch panel I am using) that I am super excited about!

Hey @skupples, do you happen to have any thoughts on any of this... In fact, since you also have a CL case, and depending on how you feel about the ball and socket system they use, you might find my magnetmod of some usefulness. It is reasonably simple, and if you obtained thicker magnets, and we're not reluctant to do permanent modding, as I am, then you could surely find a more easily implemented solution than me struggling with the PD (if you don't cost the entire magnet and spacer 'assembly' then they happily peel apart, as well as needing to use additional PD in the holes of the chassis to act as additional strength to prevent detachment from the chassis, but for some rreason the exact same magnet/space assembly on the side doors holds incredibly well. And is actually a challenge to remove, not certain why exactly), possibly epoxy, or a different two-part adhesive akin to J. B. Weld or some such.

Anyhow, please let me know if you have any suggestions that could make this easier for me, or questions on any of the mods I am implementing.

Thank goodness for computers!!!!


----------



## Mega Man

I love their ball and socket system. Once I got used to it


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Yeah, it's like a circuit breaker.
> Only 160? what bios are you using, on 0801 it goes to 200% (granted its a red setting but still). Too bad about the chip though.


I'm on the newest bios that shows up for 3930k users. I just checked my bios, only goes to 160%, but maybe it's chip specific

Sounds good to me, Reev3r. I'm not a big fan of their panel clip system. I'm always having to stick a tiny screw driver in there to bend them back out. Wouldn't be much of an issue, but there is SOME minor pressure on my rear door and front bottom panel, so they like to wiggle out over time.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I'm on a 3930k also and it goes to 180% for me. My old 3970x, same thing, 180%.

Bios 0801.


----------



## skupples

Hmm think I'm still on the 7 series... I remember the 128 gb beta bios just coming available last time I updated
Will have to check when I get home. 4930k should be here today. Now I just need to work up the energy to drain the loop well enough to get the CPU block off.


----------



## skupples

hmm... Am I going to need to reformat my drives, or just update the chipset drivers?


----------



## TheTarpZ

This is my setup for now. new chassi and waterblocks will come after christmas









// TheTarpZ


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hmm... Am I going to need to reformat my drives, or just update the chipset drivers?


I did not reformat my HDD when installing the 4930K, I may have updated the chipset drivers, not sure. Working very well anyways.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I did not reformat my HDD when installing the 4930K, I may have updated the chipset drivers, not sure. Working very well anyways.


from what I understand : (After some googles)

A.) you do not need to format

B.) you 100% need to install the most up to date IMEI & re-install chipset drivers.

C.) win.

windows will auto-install a REALLY old IMEI, but its best to install the newest one. IMEI was not a requirement (At least from what I understand) on pre Ivy, but it's a requirement now.

anyways, the beast is loaded, and I am in fact running the 701 BIOS, as 801 is a BETA, so i'm guessing thats the one where they further jacked the OCP...

First time - Booted in @ 2666














@ 4.3

time for some tweaking fun & rum.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> from what I understand : (After some googles)
> 
> A.) you do not need to format
> 
> B.) you 100% need to install the most up to date IMEI & re-install chipset drivers.
> 
> C.) win.
> 
> windows will auto-install a REALLY old IMEI, but its best to install the newest one. IMEI was not a requirement (At least from what I understand) on pre Ivy, but it's a requirement now.
> 
> anyways, the beast is loaded, and I am in fact running the 701 BIOS, as 801 is a BETA, so i'm guessing thats the one where they further jacked the OCP...
> 
> First time - Booted in @ 2666
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ 4.3
> 
> time for some tweaking fun & rum.


IMEI? I can't really remember if I re-installed the chipset drivers, but I will look at it when it is up and running again.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> IMEI? I can't really remember if I re-installed the chipset drivers, but I will look at it when it is up and running again.


The chipset bit isn't 100% required, it's just a recommendation people give. Same for the up2date Intel Management Engine isomething. Windblows will install IMEI either way, just not an up2date version.

We have had a few people over the months require reformat. Lebestia being one of them. He had persistent BSOD until reformating, but if I remember correctly he went from like 4 core sandy, to 6 core sandy, to ivy all on the same install.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The chipset bit isn't 100% required, it's just a recommendation people give. Same for the up2date Intel Management Engine isomething. Windblows will install IMEI either way, just not an up2date version.
> 
> We have had a few people over the months require reformat. Lebestia being one of them. He had persistent BSOD until reformating, but if I remember correctly he went from like 4 core sandy, to 6 core sandy, to ivy all on the same install.


Yeah, but 4-core has completely different chipset, and drive controller contained within that chipset. That's when you really need to do the format.. when you swap drive controllers. CPU upgrades really only need the MEI updates as you suggested, since MEI is how the OS interfaces with the system, and the CPU has changed, so that interface needs an update to properly support the new CPU, and its new power-state features.

When getting BSODs, and running "stock", it's always a good idea to try a fresh OS, if you have the hardware to be able to do so... that's just good troubleshooting.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, but 4-core has completely different chipset, and drive controller contained within that chipset. That's when you really need to do the format.. when you swap drive controllers. CPU upgrades really only need the MEI updates as you suggested, since MEI is how the OS interfaces with the system, and the CPU has changed, so that interface needs an update to properly support the new CPU, and its new power-state features.
> 
> When getting BSODs, and running "stock", it's always a good idea to try a fresh OS, if you have the hardware to be able to do so... that's just good troubleshooting.


I feel lucky, so far... I haven't really been in the BIOS for more than 2 minutes. I set the memory to 2666 w/ the stock timings of 10/12/12/24/2 w/ 4.2 @ 1.3 just for lulz, and it's so far been pretty stable. Didn't even increase OCP. This is on 701, haven't seen a reason to move to 801, since the main feature is the "Intelligent memory 128GB" threshold increase.


----------



## LunaP

@Skupples yeah been cleaning up, added 1 person so far need you to pm me your email again so I can add you on the google docs to update the OP for any new info and users, in case I dissapear again, adding another form to hold updates and tweaks.

@cadaveca

Finally had time to sit down and rego over my RAM again, still sporting 64gb and found your guide and been rummaging through it, I'm stable across the board so far but back to my initial issue w/ write speeds being slower than read or copy, I"m guessing this issue would be more of a voltage area correct?

Here's my current settings.

CPU voltage 1.275
VTT auto
VSCAA 1.2



I've laxed timings up to 12-12-12-36 and even 12-13-12-38 and still average the same write speeds, even @ 1.25v vs 1.2

Up for suggestions and still going through your guide, some good stuff, which I"ll include on the OP as well since this would be great for others. I want to get this fixed up before I start undervolting my cpu.

Here are my current settings






Just lowered to 1.15 from 1.2
Running Intel Burn test @ maximum for now to stress test it, will run prime after. Still curious if that write speed will hamper me or just to leave it.

Edit# 3

Few hours of IBT passed fine, ran on standard and 4gb and max

Running 1 hour so far on Prime95 no issues.

Gonna leave it on overnight and check in the morning, hoping to hear back.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Edit#4

After around an hour of prime I came back in to find that my PC had rebooted and was back in windows. However another issue I recently realized is my PC does not create dump files for BSOD's this appears to be due to a missing page file. Is there another setting I can turn on for this or is having a page file the only way?

Going to pump voltage back up to 1.2 for VCCSA and while VTT is on auto I'm noticing it hitting around 1.225

Guess I'll start increasing my 3rd timings by 1

#edit 5

Hmm Reset again on prime @ 1.2v yet everything passes IBT, I'll need to google how to get BSOD's to dump to a file for now so I can read up on the error code of what the issue might be.

#edit 6

Relaxed timings to 9-11-11-31 and now write speeds are slightly above read, and Prime seems to be going well. Created a temp page file on an alt drive, and unchecked "auto restart on bsod" to that I could annotate it, since I have a list of BSOD codes from asus for OC'ing which helps greatly.

Timings still the same 9-11-11-31 and prime ran fine but noticed that cpu was @ 4.0 so had to readjust in bios. However given that things were working better I applied slightly more voltage to the CPU and bumped to 1.285

Edit#7

Timings 9-11-11-28
Vcore 1.29
VCCSA 1.2
Mem voltage 1.7

All is stable running multiple browsers + 300+ tabs )
Steam games on full settings, 7+ monitors
2 passes in prime so far
Will leave it on over night once I'm done

Edit #8

BSOD 0x0124 which is either Vcore or VTT related so I"m almost there
Boosted vCore to 1.295 However if theres still an issue I'll bump VTT from 1.15 to 1.2 then start to relax vCore by .05 steps.

Timings @ 9-11-11-25

Edit # 9

Poofed again, still the same 0x124 code so I know its Vcore/VTT related. Tried bumping VTT to 1.2 , still same issue so dropped to 1.8
Bumped Vcore to 1.3v Memory down to 1.65, figured I'd do this bit by bit.

Running again, if it succeeds I"ll bump VTT down to 1.15

Edit # 10

Noticed VCCSA was @ 1.15 bumped to 1.2 in case since I got a clear reboot vs a stuck BSOD. Bumped vcore to 1.310 VTT back to 1.15 RAM voltage to 1.7
Testing from there.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

@reev3r
Can you even use neomags that close to pc hardware? I've worked with those in the past and wouldn't personally advise it unless you jacketed 5 sides in lead before plasti-dipping them. Metal, mainly steel plate, makes the field stronger on all sides not touching the plate and that effect is increased proportionally with the thickness of that plate (within a certain range dependant of the magnet in use, of course).

I'm not sure about the gfx card clocking issue, is 130 as high as you tried? If so maybe try for a higher clock offset and see if that bumps you from the rut. I can't really say because my cards are fairly old now and use the old, straight forward, method lol.

I'm not familiar with caselabs cases but if the front panel allows I'd just buy some fine fishnet fabric, fold a length over a few times and attach that somewhere hidden. I did something similar to that with my build; I have fan grilles in the holes and fine fishnet between those and the rads with the bolts that hold that rads to the case going through them. Every 2 months or so I vacuum them, they catch all but the tiniest dust and don't block airflow like those small wire screens do. Just a thought.

For the molds: try looking around for tiling clay, it's fairly cheap, easy to mold and bakes in your oven if you want a more permanent mold. rub the inside with a small amount of olive oil and you should be set.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hmm... Am I going to need to reformat my drives, or just update the chipset drivers?


I didn't wipe my drives when I switched sockets (took some software tinkering but still) so it should just take a driver update


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> @reev3r
> Can you even use neomags that close to pc hardware? I've worked with those in the past and wouldn't personally advise it unless you jacketed 5 sides in lead before plasti-dipping them. Metal, mainly steel plate, makes the field stronger on all sides not touching the plate and that effect is increased proportionally with the thickness of that plate (within a certain range dependant of the magnet in use, of course


Not sure how strong the magnets are but AFAIK the "magnets will harm computers" thing is a myth. Even in regards to standard spinning HDDs.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> @reev3r
> Can you even use neomags that close to pc hardware? I've worked with those in the past and wouldn't personally advise it unless you jacketed 5 sides in lead before plasti-dipping them. Metal, mainly steel plate, makes the field stronger on all sides not touching the plate and that effect is increased proportionally with the thickness of that plate (within a certain range dependant of the magnet in use, of course).


Here is a link to some information on the 'Magnets wipe drives myth". There is no permanent magnet that is capable of damaging a hard drive or other components inside a computer. It's just not something to be concerned about, really ever... You could leave an N50 directly on a drive for a year and it would be fine. 

Also, just to prove a to a guy that did not believe me, well, or just felt like arguing, I took six of my 1/2"x3/4"x1/4" N50's and left them on a 1TB drive for about eight hours, and much to his surprise the drive still worked... In fact, it is still chugging along to this day. 

Additionally, there are many cases out there that have magnets to secure panels already. 

I love the end of that link I shared: "Please wear safety glasses when following these instructions: Apply sledgehammer. Repeat."

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I'm not sure about the gfx card clocking issue, is 130 as high as you tried? If so maybe try for a higher clock offset and see if that bumps you from the rut. I can't really say because my cards are fairly old now and use the old, straight forward, method lol.


I seem to recall us having a discussion about your graphics cards going up to 1,285MHz... (Unless I am mistaken), and you said that I only needed 5MHz more in order to match your overclock... I was just saying that I finally did it... I was having some odd problems with the previous version of Precision X16, but all is well now, or at least it seems that way...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I'm not familiar with caselabs cases but if the front panel allows I'd just buy some fine fishnet fabric, fold a length over a few times and attach that somewhere hidden. I did something similar to that with my build; I have fan grilles in the holes and fine fishnet between those and the rads with the bolts that hold that rads to the case going through them. Every 2 months or so I vacuum them, they catch all but the tiniest dust and don't block airflow like those small wire screens do. Just a thought.


I have already purchased the nice fabric, it doesn't block airflow whatsoever (for the purposes of this application), and once I am done it will definitely look fantastic! Plus, I got 200 RE magnets for $12, so I have plenty to make use of! 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> For the molds: try looking around for tiling clay, it's fairly cheap, easy to mold and bakes in your oven if you want a more permanent mold. rub the inside with a small amount of olive oil and you should be set.


I am not looking to go that in-depth with this, I was thinking more along the lines of using my InstaMorph to make the mold... That being said, I am still not even sure if I need to, I feel that just using a spoon to sufficiently cover the edges with the magnets in place will work just fine, making a mold for this project feels really overkill at this point...

Especially considering the number of concurrent projects I have going on this thing right now...

Arduino-based 3.2" Temperature Display (10 Probes)
The MagnetMod
The 'CaseSink' mod
The front 'Lightbox' mod (using some white acrylic and COB LED panels to give a nice even, white glow)
Not to mention all of the watercooling modifications I am presently avoiding... At least until I get some 970's in here...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Not sure how strong the magnets are but AFAIK the "magnets will harm computers" thing is a myth. Even in regards to standard spinning HDDs.


It's a principle of mine to not recommend to others something I, myself, wouldn't do (and if it's something I would do I disclose most if not all the risks of doing so just incase it's something I'm comfortable doing but others may not be). Myth or not I wouldn't put magnets near my expensive electronics, so on that basis I can't recommend it.









Neo magnets are pretty strong by the way and they're supposed to be permanent though I don't recall why at the moment. I believe it has something to do with their chemical and/or molecular composition.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Here is a link to some information on the 'Magnets wipe drives myth". There is no permanent magnet that is capable of damaging a hard drive or other components inside a computer. It's just not something to be concerned about, really ever... You could leave an N50 directly on a drive for a year and it would be fine.


You ninja'd me lol my mentality on that is in my previous post








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I seem to recall us having a discussion about your graphics cards going up to 1,285MHz... (Unless I am mistaken), and you said that I only needed 5MHz more in order to match your overclock... I was just saying that I finally did it... I was having some odd problems with the previous version of Precision X16, but all is well now, or at least it seems that way...


I can most whole heartedly assure you that my 470s do not clock to 1,285 MHz lol so you have the wrong guy!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I have already purchased the nice fabric, it doesn't block airflow whatsoever (for the purposes of this application), and once I am done it will definitely look fantastic! Plus, I got 200 RE magnets for $12, so I have plenty to make use of!
> I am not looking to go that in-depth with this, I was thinking more along the lines of using my InstaMorph to make the mold... That being said, I am still not even sure if I need to, I feel that just using a spoon to sufficiently cover the edges with the magnets in place will work just fine, making a mold for this project feels really overkill at this point...
> 
> Especially considering the number of concurrent projects I have going on this thing right now...
> 
> Arduino-based 3.2" Temperature Display (10 Probes)
> The MagnetMod
> The 'CaseSink' mod
> The front 'Lightbox' mod (using some white acrylic and COB LED panels to give a nice even, white glow)
> Not to mention all of the watercooling modifications I am presently avoiding... At least until I get some 970's in here...


You'll have to start including sketches or something so I can get a better idea of what you're looking to do lol. I do have my mind elsewhere though, I'm currently teaching myself how to do 3D artwork in photoshop and 3ds max so my mind is deep into that mode of thinking currently.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> You ninja'd me lol my mentality on that is in my previous post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can most whole heartedly assure you that my 470s do not clock to 1,285 MHz lol so you have the wrong guy!
> You'll have to start including sketches or something so I can get a better idea of what you're looking to do lol. I do have my mind elsewhere though, I'm currently teaching myself how to do 3D artwork in photoshop and 3ds max so my mind is deep into that mode of thinking currently.


I am clearly mistaken, I was communicating with you and another guy around the same time, and I have clearly confused the two of you... like a newburrito!

Sketches, eh...? Hmmm... How about photographs??

BRB

Here is a photograph of one of my 'test' efforts, you can see one of the small magnets I was testing with, in the top left area of the fabric where it is sprayed... It is the small 'bright' spot just 'south' of the can...



Unfortunately, I used a LOT of the spray, but it did not coat the fabric very well... So I think the tube of Plasti-Dip will work much better...

@SpecTRe-X I just now saw your 'previous post' about the magnets...

I have never been one to tell a person that being safe is irrational, and nor do I in this case. That being said, the only time I have ever had a magnet destroy data on a hard drive, ironically, is from a FAN!!! I had a very powerful A/C fan installed in my computer, I assumed it would be safe, alas, it was not, it ended up corrupting my OS, and then after a couple of years, the motherboard began having issues that did not make sense. Once I removed the fan, things improved, but the motherboard never fully recovered... The reason for this is very simple, the A/C fan was essentially acting as a degaussing machine, the machines used to wipe hard drives, they alternate magnetic fields very rapidly for anywhere from 30s to hours, this thing had several years to do it's thing, and since it was not very powerful, it was able to get it done over time...

One of the reasons that even *some of* the most powerful RE magnets do not wipe drives, is because they have static magnetism, that is, their poles always remain the same, perhaps if you could somehow alternate the poles rapidly enough it would work...

Additionally, if the fear of neodymium magnets is an issue, then you should not have HDD's near your.. er.. HDD's... Since they contain a HUGE neodymium magnet inside them... If magnets could wipe data, then they could not exist in the hard drive. These are not at the read/write head either, they are for the voice coil... Just google "Hard Drive Magnet", let us all rejoice, and let your fears of magnets subside my friend...  They pose zero threat.

It really surprises me that people never consider the giant RE magnets inside drives when they fear that a magnet will wipe date. Granted, some people are completely unaware of such magnets, but for the people that do know they are in there, it surprises me that they still have such a fear... Especially if you get the chance to pull them out, they are easily the most powerful magnets I have ever encountered in my life, by a long shot... They will easily break fingers if you are not careful.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Sure you can completely wipe a HDD with a strong enough magnetic field, much less damage just some of the data on one. That's what Government-Approved Degaussers do, but they employ a magnetic field many many times stronger than you can get with a handheld magnet of any kind.

Who can forget the awesome scene in Breaking Bad where they created a seriously powerful magnet to wipe a HDD in an evidence room? ...






I luv that scene, but even then I'm afraid they probably wouldn't have actually been able to wipe the contents of the laptop like they were trying to like that. It's plausible that they might have been able to corrupt the files enough to achieve their goal, but it's probably more likely that they wouldn't have, at least not from that far away, even with a magnet strong enough to flip a Uhaul.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sure you can completely wipe a HDD with a strong enough magnetic field, much less damage just some of the data on one. That's what Government-Approved Degaussers do, but they employ a magnetic field many many times stronger than you can get with a handheld magnet of any kind.
> 
> Who can forget the awesome scene in Breaking Bad where they created a seriously powerful magnet to wipe a HDD in an evidence room? ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I luv that scene, but even then I'm afraid they probably wouldn't have actually been able to wipe the contents of the laptop like they were trying to like that. It's plausible that they might have been able to corrupt the files enough to achieve their goal, but it's probably more likely that they wouldn't have, at least not from that far away, even with a magnet strong enough to flip a Uhaul.


Yeah... The degaussing machines used to wipe drives are ridiculously powerful, they use an alternating magnetic field instead of a static field, they are very precise, and take several minutes to do so, not to mention their RIDICULOUS price tags... We're talking a minimum of $10,000 (I am sure there are versions for less somewhere), and upwards of several hundred thousand, and those are going to take a long time, as well as in some cases have a maximum aerial density with which they will work, since the higher the aerial density of the platters, the greater the Oersted value...

So if it were even slightly possible to do anything to a HDD with normal permanent magnets, the machines to wipe drives would not only cost orders of magnitude less, but they would certainly not take the amount of time they do... On top of this, because the aerial density of modern drives being so high, and their intrinsic ability to maintain a magnetic field, degaussing machines are on their way out, being replaced by HDD shredders instead, due to their inherent reliability... Drive destroyed=data destroyed... Whereas Drive intact does not always equal data destroyed...

It is somewhat complex, but you can find plenty of information on this with a search for degaussing machine, oersted units, and just those two should provide plenty of informative reading...

Although, it would be AWESOME to have a magnet that powerful, wiping hard drives... Or cars... lol

After watching the video, that is an electromagnet, not a Rare Eartth magnet... Totally different things.


----------



## vulcan78

Hey guys, its been a while since I've been here, I wanted to update everyone with some fairly substantial changes I've made with my RIVBE centered PC (hybrid cooling solution):






I also wanted to report my recent experience with overclocking my 4930, after picking up Nvidia's 3D Vision kit, at least that's all I can attribute the newfound instability to, my old OC of 4.6GHz at 1.4V no longer held stable. After trying 1.425V and not restoring stability and not wanting to push 1.45V I decided it was time to dial it back to 1.4V. Well this was a blessing in disguise of sorts as in the process I found that I was able to incrementally reduce VCORE from 1.4 to 1.37V as measured on the board with a multi-meter. It might even be stable at 1.365V but sadly testing at 1.355 resulted in a BSOD. Shortly thereafter I also had it in mind to experiment with dialing back the DRAM voltage from the 1.675V 4.6GHz required (factory timings) and am now holding solid at 1.55V. I've lost a tad performance, maybe 400 points Physics in Firestrike, but have been able to reduce the voltage all around and am happier in the end.

I was right at that point where your chip suddenly needs exponentially more voltage for that next 100MHz with 4.6GHz. So the message for newcomers is, if your chip needs more than 1.4V simply dial back your frequency!

Anyhow, let me know what you guys think of the new system changes.


----------



## LunaP

Guys please make use of the Edit button to avoid spamming the forum, regardless if you don't like to or not its forum etiquette and part of the guidelines, and makes it easier on everyone, don't be lazy it takes the SAME amount of time as it takes to hit the reply button.









Please think of the mods...


----------



## SDMODNoob

Just wanted to give a quick shout out to @electro2u who reached out and assisted me with swapping out my heatsink so I could get my board RMA'd. It is now up and running after the process and is running smoothly over the last week


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Happy holidays everyone


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Sketches, eh...? Hmmm... How about photographs??
> 
> Unfortunately, I used a LOT of the spray, but it did not coat the fabric very well... So I think the tube of Plasti-Dip will work much better...
> 
> Additionally, if the fear of neodymium magnets is an issue, then you should not have HDD's near your.. er.. HDD's... Since they contain a HUGE neodymium magnet inside them... If magnets could wipe data, then they could not exist in the hard drive. These are not at the read/write head either, they are for the voice coil... Just google "Hard Drive Magnet", let us all rejoice, and let your fears of magnets subside my friend...  They pose zero threat.


Sketches are sexier!

Ya but at the same time those magnets must be shielded somehow because the drive doesn't attract any of the steel tools I have laying around (yes, I checked







). I have a dead drive I may pull apart to see what the shielding is actually like now that we're talking about it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Guys please make use of the Edit button to avoid spamming the forum, regardless if you don't like to or not its forum etiquette and part of the guidelines, and makes it easier on everyone, don't be lazy it takes the SAME amount of time as it takes to hit the reply button.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please think of the mods...


Yeah, sorry about that. I was going to edit it but then had concerns about it being seen/noticed.

On a bit of a side note (and not to be argumentative or disrespectful) is double posting actually harder on mods? I was an admin for a clan forum I was part of a while ago and didn't personally have any issue with it when it occurred. Ironically it was actually easier sometimes because one post would be just trash and the other would be fine and I could just delete the trash one without having to actually edit the text itself.

Anyway, I'll remain mindful of that in the future


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> It is now up and running after the process and is running smoothly over the last week
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey that's great man! Glad you got everything up and working. I really like the plastidipped i/o cover a lot so shout out right back at ya! =)

Edit: I think people sometimes double post because editing with links and photos can be really wonky on cell phones. That's usually when I do it.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Sketches are sexier!
> 
> Ya but at the same time those magnets must be shielded somehow because the drive doesn't attract any of the steel tools I have laying around (yes, I checked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I have a dead drive I may pull apart to see what the shielding is actually like now that we're talking about it.


The only shielding there is is the steel enclosure, and the big piece of metal the magnet is attatched to...

Did you happen to Google anything about hard drive magnets, I am sure there are some videos on YouTube about them... Given the number of hard drives I have taken apart over the years I am quite surprised I do not have a couple dozen if them laying around.

I do think that you will be surprised not only by the size of the magnets, but the incredibly strength of them as well, they are surprisingly strong, and should allay any fears you have... If that I am confident. If a magnet that powerful is sitting INSIDE your HDD, within cm's of the platters spinning without causing damage, I think a magnet chilling outside the drive, away from the platters is of no concern.

The only concern I have ever heard brought up is that it could potentially pull on the read/write arm and cause a crash, but that can't happen because the r/w heads are non-ferrous, and so are not affected by magnets.

Regardless of all this, pulling apart hard drives is always a fun thing to do!!! Enjoy!


----------



## friskiest

Blocked up my board today











I was surprised that the heatpipe connecting the IO shield to the vrm heatsink bends by hand.

I need to figure out how to dismantle it without damaging the pipe.

Will try with my heatgun and some elbow grease, anyone got any other tips?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Blocked up my board today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised that the heatpipe connecting the IO shield to the vrm heatsink bends by hand.
> 
> I need to figure out how to dismantle it without damaging the pipe.
> 
> Will try with my heatgun and some elbow grease, anyone got any other tips?


Looks like you have everything already dismantled and replaced... Are you trying to separate the VRM heatsink/pipe from the rear IO heatsink?


----------



## friskiest

Yes, exactly that.

I know people have applied heat and managed to get it out, others have physically cut the heatpipe but I am reluctant to do that in case of future RMA.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Blocked up my board today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised that the heatpipe connecting the IO shield to the vrm heatsink bends by hand.
> 
> I need to figure out how to dismantle it without damaging the pipe.
> 
> Will try with my heatgun and some elbow grease, anyone got any other tips?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Yes, exactly that.
> 
> I know people have applied heat and managed to get it out, others have physically cut the heatpipe but I am reluctant to do that in case of future RMA.


I think I was the first one to successfully separate the I/O heatsink from the heat pipe.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/55910#post_21431710

I used a propane torch and it took about 10 minutes of heating the heatsink to get it to expand enough and melt the thermal glue to ease the heatpipe out.

Somewhat later, someone else managed to do it with a 2KW heat gun.

Darlene


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> The only shielding there is is the steel enclosure, and the big piece of metal the magnet is attatched to...
> 
> Did you happen to Google anything about hard drive magnets, I am sure there are some videos on YouTube about them... Given the number of hard drives I have taken apart over the years I am quite surprised I do not have a couple dozen if them laying around.
> 
> I do think that you will be surprised not only by the size of the magnets, but the incredibly strength of them as well, they are surprisingly strong, and should allay any fears you have... If that I am confident. If a magnet that powerful is sitting INSIDE your HDD, within cm's of the platters spinning without causing damage, I think a magnet chilling outside the drive, away from the platters is of no concern.
> 
> The only concern I have ever heard brought up is that it could potentially pull on the read/write arm and cause a crash, but that can't happen because the r/w heads are non-ferrous, and so are not affected by magnets.
> 
> Regardless of all this, pulling apart hard drives is always a fun thing to do!!! Enjoy!


That leads me to believe that either the housing that the magnet sits inside of is an alloy which contains lead (or another material that blocks magnetic fields) or the actual casing material is shielding it somehow. Wouldn't the drive have a perceivable affect on things like steel bolts and wrenches otherwise if the magnet is indeed that strong?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Yeah, sorry about that. I was going to edit it but then had concerns about it being seen/noticed.


Only issue with that is , if you have to post past yourself with noone else posting after you to be seen, then 100% of the time you're not going to be seen anyways if people aren't looking anyways. Since you were the only one that had posted and noone after you, you could easily just edit your response super fast. I get where you're coming from however in a way it looks confusing because then people assume that comments were deleted in between by MOD's when they see only one person over and over so that would lead them to believe you're talking to someone else.
Quote:


> On a bit of a side note (and not to be argumentative or disrespectful) is double posting actually harder on mods? I was an admin for a clan forum I was part of a while ago and didn't personally have any issue with it when it occurred. Ironically it was actually easier sometimes because one post would be just trash and the other would be fine and I could just delete the trash one without having to actually edit the text itself.


It is when they have to respond to requests by others to help keep the thread from being cluttered. That + having to issue warnings if its repeated its not fun for them as we like to continue to keep a close family here. As for other forums, if they don't care about it that's their policy, but here forum etiquette is respectful at least, since multiple posts show laziness or someones attempt at getting noticed. Just as its easy to delete a post its super easy to edit and fix the content adjusting as needed, its only a few extra seconds.

We've had a few people in the past when the thread first started and on plenty of other forums that would greatly clutter things as they went through the threads catching up, instead of making use of the multi quote button they'd quote something, then quote something else and on and on sometimes spanning 7-15 posts before someone else responded.
Quote:


> Anyway, I'll remain mindful of that in the future


Thank you, the fact that your'e responding and acknowleding means a lot as not many adhere or feel they should follow guidelines or forum etiquette and pretend not to notice.

The ones that feel they need to type out a reason to excuse themselves from such take longer to do so than simply making use of it which boggles me to no extent, and why they feel they'll be exempt from a simply apology is beyond me as it just shows others that its ok to do the same.

That said on a brighter note, does anyone know what changes or fixes were applied in bios 0701? I'm still running 060x iirc and all I'm reading is issues fixed but not showing what. I'm curious if that would help my OC issue for the moment or keep it the same or make it worse.

Also anyone tested the custom 0701/0801 bios that was modded here?

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=391033

Not sure if they're on this forum or already posted it but was googling up the changes and came across it, here's an exerpt from the owners post.
Quote:


> Not sure if anyone cares about EFI updates and CPU Microcode updates, But For anyone that does, I have modded R4BE Bios 0701 with the latest EFI modules.
> 
> Intel Raid Rom (Orom/SataDriver) Version 13.2.0.2134
> Microcode for IvyBridge-E Updated
> Intel LAN Orom/EFI updated to v1.5.53 / v6.1.16
> Intel ME Firmware 8.1.52.1496 (1.5Mo) (for x79 Chipset)


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> That leads me to believe that either the housing that the magnet sits inside of is an alloy which contains lead (or another material that blocks magnetic fields) or the actual casing material is shielding it somehow. Wouldn't the drive have a perceivable affect on things like steel bolts and wrenches otherwise if the magnet is indeed that strong?


The magnet isn't inside any casing at all. As far as an effect on ferrous materials, magnets, even big powerful ones, have a relatively limited range of effect, even 1" magnets are limited to about 1'2"-3'4" in their field, and with the relative location inside the drive, you can see that it is positioned where it is less likely to have an effect on external materials, intentional or not I've no idea.

That being said, anything ferrous has a detrimental impact on the magnetic field, so the piece of steel that the magnet is stuck to is probably diminishing it's reach in that direction, as well, there is a bit of iron on the other side as well, but IIRC, there is nothing to stop it laterally (the direction of the platters)... Did you get the chance to check out any videos?

If you go to this VIDEO you can see the placement of the magnets. It is boring, but if you go to the ~2:20 mark, it will save some time.


----------



## cadaveca

Many cases have magnetic closures. But... HDD's use magnets, a whole array of them. That's what the 1's and 0's are...magnetic alignments. But, the whole point of making greater-desnity drives is using higher-strength magnetic fields, so it'd take way stonger magneets than it did before
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> @cadaveca
> 
> Finally had time to sit down and rego over my RAM again, still sporting 64gb and found your guide and been rummaging through it, I'm stable across the board so far but back to my initial issue w/ write speeds being slower than read or copy, I"m guessing this issue would be more of a voltage area correct?
> 
> Here's my current settings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CPU voltage 1.275
> VTT auto
> VSCAA 1.2
> 
> 
> 
> I've laxed timings up to 12-12-12-36 and even 12-13-12-38 and still average the same write speeds, even @ 1.25v vs 1.2
> 
> Up for suggestions and still going through your guide, some good stuff, which I"ll include on the OP as well since this would be great for others. I want to get this fixed up before I start undervolting my cpu.
> 
> Here are my current settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just lowered to 1.15 from 1.2
> Running Intel Burn test @ maximum for now to stress test it, will run prime after. Still curious if that write speed will hamper me or just to leave it.
> 
> Edit# 3
> 
> Few hours of IBT passed fine, ran on standard and 4gb and max
> 
> Running 1 hour so far on Prime95 no issues.
> 
> Gonna leave it on overnight and check in the morning, hoping to hear back.
> 
> Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
> 
> Edit#4
> 
> After around an hour of prime I came back in to find that my PC had rebooted and was back in windows. However another issue I recently realized is my PC does not create dump files for BSOD's this appears to be due to a missing page file. Is there another setting I can turn on for this or is having a page file the only way?
> 
> Going to pump voltage back up to 1.2 for VCCSA and while VTT is on auto I'm noticing it hitting around 1.225
> 
> Guess I'll start increasing my 3rd timings by 1
> 
> #edit 5
> 
> Hmm Reset again on prime @ 1.2v yet everything passes IBT, I'll need to google how to get BSOD's to dump to a file for now so I can read up on the error code of what the issue might be.
> 
> #edit 6
> 
> Relaxed timings to 9-11-11-31 and now write speeds are slightly above read, and Prime seems to be going well. Created a temp page file on an alt drive, and unchecked "auto restart on bsod" to that I could annotate it, since I have a list of BSOD codes from asus for OC'ing which helps greatly.
> 
> Timings still the same 9-11-11-31 and prime ran fine but noticed that cpu was @ 4.0 so had to readjust in bios. However given that things were working better I applied slightly more voltage to the CPU and bumped to 1.285
> 
> Edit#7
> 
> Timings 9-11-11-28
> Vcore 1.29
> VCCSA 1.2
> Mem voltage 1.7
> 
> All is stable running multiple browsers + 300+ tabs )
> Steam games on full settings, 7+ monitors
> 2 passes in prime so far
> Will leave it on over night once I'm done
> 
> Edit #8
> 
> BSOD 0x0124 which is either Vcore or VTT related so I"m almost there
> Boosted vCore to 1.295 However if theres still an issue I'll bump VTT from 1.15 to 1.2 then start to relax vCore by .05 steps.
> 
> Timings @ 9-11-11-25
> 
> Edit # 9
> 
> Poofed again, still the same 0x124 code so I know its Vcore/VTT related. Tried bumping VTT to 1.2 , still same issue so dropped to 1.8
> Bumped Vcore to 1.3v Memory down to 1.65, figured I'd do this bit by bit.
> 
> Running again, if it succeeds I"ll bump VTT down to 1.15
> 
> Edit # 10
> 
> Noticed VCCSA was @ 1.15 bumped to 1.2 in case since I got a clear reboot vs a stuck BSOD. Bumped vcore to 1.310 VTT back to 1.15 RAM voltage to 1.7
> Testing from there.


I'd look at current limits maybe being a problem, and maybe check out PLL changes.

I'd also look at memory timings, and having them match the listing in the BIOS's SPD tool, as TFAW 28 seems tight to me. I'd have 6-320-8320-16-8-30-8-6-8

CPU VTT to 1.05V

VCCSA to 1.05V

and up CPU Vcore to 1.35V.

If that fails, try increase VTT, and nothing but VTT, to 1.15V


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Many cases have magnetic closures. But... HDD's use magnets, a whole array of them. That's what the 1's and 0's are...magnetic alignments. But, the whole point of making greater-desnity drives is using higher-strength magnetic fields, so it'd take way stonger magneets than it did before
> I'd look at current limits maybe being a problem, and maybe check out PLL changes.
> 
> I'd also look at memory timings, and having them match the listing in the BIOS's SPD tool, as TFAW 28 seems tight to me. I'd have 6-320-8320-16-8-30-8-6-8
> 
> CPU VTT to 1.05V
> 
> VCCSA to 1.05V
> 
> and up CPU Vcore to 1.35V.
> 
> If that fails, try increase VTT, and nothing but VTT, to 1.15V


K will try that now

What's a good amount of time to pass in Prime btw? Raja stats 2+ hours is fine, which I've beyond exceeded even w/ lower settings but wanted to make sure, since I do run long sessions though would game for hours (upwards 16+ w/ no issues along w/ 300+ tabs in chrome spanning 7 monitors etc )

Gonna start the process again now will report back if after trying both methods.

Also you didn't mention on RAM voltage? Should I leave on 1.7 or back down to 1.65?


----------



## skupples

hmmm... Installing this 4930k has induced some weird hitching in games. Games in general are actually running allot smoother compared to the decrepit 3930k w/ memory @ 1600mhz, but now i'm getting this weird hitching ever 4 - 6 minutes. It's so bad that it actually affects audio as well as video. Normally hitching is just video, but here it's audio and video, which makes me think it may be something on my end

I haven't dug into the bios yet, I just did a quick & dirty OC to start 4.2 @ 1.25 w/ memory @ stock 2400 10 10 12 24.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> K will try that now
> 
> What's a good amount of time to pass in Prime btw? Raja stats 2+ hours is fine, which I've beyond exceeded even w/ lower settings but wanted to make sure, since I do run long sessions though would game for hours (upwards 16+ w/ no issues along w/ 300+ tabs in chrome spanning 7 monitors etc )
> 
> Gonna start the process again now will report back if after trying both methods.
> 
> Also you didn't mention on RAM voltage? Should I leave on 1.7 or back down to 1.65?


Yap, no point in 1.7V IMHO, if it really needs that much, you should RMA it.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yap, no point in 1.7V IMHO, if it really needs that much, you should RMA it.


Kk its running now, using another laptop to post here even though oddly my comp is highly responsive even @ 100% cpu usage lol.

Also any ideas on the 0701 bios? Is it worth upgrading to?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Kk its running now, using another laptop to post here even though oddly my comp is highly responsive even @ 100% cpu usage lol.
> 
> Also any ideas on the 0701 bios? Is it worth upgrading to?


I've got it on my retail board, no problems, but if stuff isn't broke, don't fix it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Kk its running now, using another laptop to post here even though oddly my comp is highly responsive even @ 100% cpu usage lol.
> 
> Also any ideas on the 0701 bios? Is it worth upgrading to?


That's the BIOS i'm currently using. It's main purpose was to allow 128GB of Memory... oh I probably shouldn't have told you that...









Also sounds like they further increased the cap on OCP, not sure what else.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's the BIOS i'm currently using. It's main purpose was to allow 128GB of Memory... oh I probably shouldn't have told you that...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also sounds like they further increased the cap on OCP, not sure what else.


0801 was for the 128gb increase, and no worries I'm sure my IMC wouldn't be able to handle it at all lol...

I meant the one before that 0701 it just says stability issues fixed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Many cases have magnetic closures. But... HDD's use magnets, a whole array of them. That's what the 1's and 0's are...magnetic alignments. But, the whole point of making greater-desnity drives is using higher-strength magnetic fields, so it'd take way stonger magneets than it did before
> I'd look at current limits maybe being a problem, and maybe check out PLL changes.
> 
> I'd also look at memory timings, and having them match the listing in the BIOS's SPD tool, as TFAW 28 seems tight to me. I'd have 6-320-8320-16-8-30-8-6-8
> 
> CPU VTT to 1.05V
> 
> VCCSA to 1.05V
> 
> and up CPU Vcore to 1.35V.
> 
> If that fails, try increase VTT, and nothing but VTT, to 1.15V


Ok made the above changes, only diff so far is 2s in latency on the mem in aida so not to shabby watching prime as it goes to see what happens.

Since I lowered VTT and VCCSA but upped vcore would I still see some temp decreases by chance? ( hoping ) though I never noticed the diff tbh since it hangs around 33C at a constant when under normal operation and 38-39C when gaming

Here's before



and here's after setting your changes to the timings



vCore is actually on 1.34 atm gonna change to 1.35 when I get a chance but seeing what happens at this point. I'm surprised you had me lower VCCSA since given the amount of RAM I have you'd figure it'd need a slight bump since the JEDEC settings in the profile call for 1.25 when running @ 2400 lol so figured 1.2-1.225 would be sufficient for 2133.

Anywhoo keeping my fingers crossed if this works I"m golden!

#Edit ok I'm seeing somewhat of a temp drop now that VTT and VCCSA are lowered I"m in the 5x vs 6x when running Prime (using blend) so its defintley noticeable, though I'm using ASUS AI monitor vs the HWinfo like before which was showing around 6x

According to AI vcore is randing between 1.372 - 1.388 cycling back and froth depending on the tests it seems.


----------



## cadaveca

Looking good.

I remembered that you had a lot of ram, but to me that's one of the things ASUS tuned with the BIOS releases since launch.

You might want ot consider upping VCCSA a tad, maybe to 1.1, see if that pulls the latency back, to me the loss of latency might be due to page faults.

I wouldn't expect any real temperature differences... main concern is stability. At most it'd be a couple of degrees, nothing worth mentioning. That could indicate page faults. again, memory is close to stable, but not fully. Try checking Windows resource manager to see page fault numbers.


----------



## skupples

=.= that's what i meant, tabbing between DA:I Dragons & typing = incoherence.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Looking good.
> 
> I remembered that you had a lot of ram, but to me that's one of the things ASUS tuned with the BIOS releases since launch.
> 
> You might want ot consider upping VCCSA a tad, maybe to 1.1, see if that pulls the latency back, to me the loss of latency might be due to page faults.
> 
> I wouldn't expect any real temperature differences... main concern is stability. At most it'd be a couple of degrees, nothing worth mentioning. That could indicate page faults. again, memory is close to stable, but not fully. Try checking Windows resource manager to see page fault numbers.


where in the manager do you view faults? Thought you had to use BSV and the like for that.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Looking good.
> 
> I remembered that you had a lot of ram, but to me that's one of the things ASUS tuned with the BIOS releases since launch.
> 
> You might want ot consider upping VCCSA a tad, maybe to 1.1, see if that pulls the latency back, to me the loss of latency might be due to page faults.
> 
> I wouldn't expect any real temperature differences... main concern is stability. At most it'd be a couple of degrees, nothing worth mentioning. That could indicate page faults. again, memory is close to stable, but not fully. Try checking Windows resource manager to see page fault numbers.


KK Comp just restarted while I was out of the room however no signs of BSOD like it would normally tell me in bluescreenviewer and or Windows recovered.

Upping vCore and setting VCCSA to 1.1 and VTT to 1.15.

N/m vcore was already @ 1.35

RAM is @ 1.65 currently.

EDIT
VCCSA seems to have lowered the latency slightly.

And yeah getting 2 completely diff temp readins

AI = 52 C
HWinfo = 65-73C per core

When running prime.


----------



## cadaveca

KK sounding good, might need a bit more VCCSA, and maybe a bit more vCore, in the end. Large amounts of ram and pushing CPU clocks isn't that easy for the platform.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> KK sounding good, might need a bit more VCCSA, and maybe a bit more vCore, in the end. Large amounts of ram and pushing CPU clocks isn't that easy for the platform.


Funny how its only Prime that kills me lol, daily operations hinder it not.

Anywhoo how many hours = good?

Raja states 2 but I'm attempting 12 or do you think that's overkill?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Funny how its only Prime that kills me lol, daily operations hinder it not.
> 
> Anywhoo how many hours = good?
> 
> Raja states 2 but I'm attempting 12 or do you think that's overkill?


Yeah, I mean, unless doing renders, anything more than 8 is a bit overkill, if you are doing blend with custom ram amount. Also depends on what version of prime you are running, too, since there are some big differences now between versions.

Haswell-E and Haswell have soured me towards P95, honestly, since I can do everything I need my PCs for, and still not pass prime95. P95 is but a small part of how I test. The Haswell OC guide I posted on our site covers all the tests I run, which also includes some gaming. I run more than most would, it seems, but whatevs.

The next thing to try, should those increases not work for you is to drop CPU multi by one, and see if stable then. IF so, then it can pinpoint vCPU issues out.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, I mean, unless doing renders, anything more than 8 is a bit overkill, if you are doing blend with custom ram amount. Also depends on what version of prime you are running, too, since there are some big differences now between versions.
> 
> Haswell-E and Haswell have soured me towards P95, honestly, since I can do everything I need my PCs for, and still not pass prime95. P95 is but a small part of how I test. The Haswell OC guide I posted on our site covers all the tests I run, which also includes some gaming. I run more than most would, it seems, but whatevs.
> 
> The next thing to try, should those increases not work for you is to drop CPU multi by one, and see if stable then. IF so, then it can pinpoint vCPU issues out.


Hmm

Prime 95 v27.9 build 1 shows 1996-2012 so makes me wonder if I have an outdated version, I googled the latest when attempting to download. Would be fun to know that it was Prime all along and not my CPU if its just a bad or outdated version.

Which version do you recommend for me ?

intel Burn test was the latest at least and it passed all tests including maximum ( all mem )

Also yeah I'm hearing about the ovens Haswell's and all, which makes me even happier I stuck w/ IVY-E, probably won't upgrade till after cannon lake now. So when the Rampage Extreme VIII comes out I might jump to that or the IX version. Since by the time they release VII I'll probably upgrade my GPU's IF anything, or just do an entire upgrade process again in another 4 years.

*EDIT!!!!

Okay during the Prime test the PC literally just shut off, no BSOD or anything, since a BSOD I'd at LEAST see a flash, and second I set it to NOT auto restart on BSOD so if there WAS one it'd be stuck so I could look at it.*

I remember going into this a while back, but there's a specific cause for this, what would you suggest at this point?

Also is this a good or bad change from actually getting one? I'm standing by in the bios for further instructions.

Doubting its temp related else I'd notice it going up above 80C
Would changing CPU Curent Capability from AUTO to 170% help at all? I'm reading on a few ROG forum threads that the same issue was experienced either by a faulty PSU , or by tsetting it to 170% ofc that was back during 0501, I remmeber 0601 added the Auto which fixed a lot of issues. Possibly I should update to 0701?

So many options.

Ok found this in the System Log

"_The previous system shutdown @ time on date was unexpected._"

*Critical*

"_The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly_"

*Source -> Kernel-Power*

#Edit

Updated to 0701

Wow that was a mistake, windows loads up and before its done freezes for 30 seconds then restarts, even @ the previous settings. I'm curious what the new CPU capability default is...

Gonna try a few things and if not gonna roll back o 0602

#Edit

Yeah I can't even get into windows w/ defaults on 0701 , I'm gonna have to roll back to 0602

#Edit

Alright back on 0602 and increasing values again VCCSA to 1.225 and upping vCore
Ram set to Auto for voltage.

Running latest version of Prime now, not sure how I was running the outdated one when I had recently downloaded the latest, must've been when I first built it, and somehow the search in the win run defaulted to it...meh

Murphy's law ftw !


----------



## Justinator

Hi, could I please join?
Really looking forward to giving this board a workout!

http://valid.x86.fr/yrhnq9


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Only issue with that is , if you have to post past yourself with no one else posting after you to be seen, then 100% of the time you're not going to be seen anyways if people aren't looking anyways. Since you were the only one that had posted and no one after you, you could easily just edit your response super fast. I get where you're coming from however in a way it looks confusing because then people assume that comments were deleted in between by MOD's when they see only one person over and over so that would lead them to believe you're talking to someone else.


I can understand that as a general principle and in this case I was concerned that while editing my previous post someone might past and there-by overlook the added content. As for people being led to believe I was replying to a deleted post, in this specific case, I had quoted the post I was replying to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> As for other forums, if they don't care about it that's their policy, but here forum etiquette is respectful at least, since multiple posts show laziness or someone's attempt at getting noticed. Just as it's easy to delete a post its super easy to edit and fix the content adjusting as needed, it's only a few extra seconds.


We had established rules against such types of posts but on that forum but since it was never a very pervasive or frequent issue I usually let it slide as long as it was additive to the topic/conversation. I disagree with both your latter points though as I wouldn't presume to know why one double posts nor found it usually easy to edit a post while attempting to maintain the substantial part of the message.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> We've had a few people in the past when the thread first started and on plenty of other forums that would greatly clutter things as they went through the threads catching up, instead of making use of the multi quote button they'd quote something, then quote something else and on and on sometimes spanning 7-15 posts before someone else responded.


That's just blatant ignorance and laziness for one to not familiarize oneself with the tools they use to convey thoughts lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Thank you, the fact that you're responding and acknowledging means a lot as not many adhere or feel they should follow guidelines or forum etiquette and pretend not to notice.


I'd have to have a severe cognitive deficiency to not know you were talking to or referring to me lol I have not seen a double post in here since I joined/started following this thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> That said on a brighter note, does anyone know what changes or fixes were applied in bios 0701? I'm still running 060x iirc and all I'm reading is issues fixed but not showing what. I'm curious if that would help my OC issue for the moment or keep it the same or make it worse.


Not off hand, iirc 801 had a ram size compatibility increase and 701 had some unnoted stability fixes. Beyond that I couldn't say.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> The magnet isn't inside any casing at all. As far as an effect on ferrous materials, magnets, even big powerful ones, have a relatively limited range of effect, even 1" magnets are limited to about 1'2"-3'4" in their field, and with the relative location inside the drive, you can see that it is positioned where it is less likely to have an effect on external materials, intentional or not I've no idea.
> 
> That being said, anything ferrous has a detrimental impact on the magnetic field, so the piece of steel that the magnet is stuck to is probably diminishing it's reach in that direction, as well, there is a bit of iron on the other side as well, but IIRC, there is nothing to stop it laterally (the direction of the platters)... Did you get the chance to check out any videos?
> 
> If you go to this VIDEO you can see the placement of the magnets. It is boring, but if you go to the ~2:20 mark, it will save some time.


From that video they don't actually look all that powerful, the magnet didn't attract the driver until the drier was about 1/3-1/2" away from it. That would likely be why they have no perceivable field outside of the casing.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> From that video they don't actually look all that powerful, the magnet didn't attract the driver until the drier was about 1/3-1/2" away from it. That would likely be why they have no perceivable field outside of the casing.


They are much more powerful than they appear, even the most powerful N50 Neodymoim magnets (I have about 200 of them, and another 20 in 1/2"x3/4"x1" size) have a range about the same. The distance of magnets only increases with size, not power... The 'power' you speak of is a measurement of their ability to 'stick' to something, or what is referred to as their 'pull force', there is no measure of their field of effect (at least not in common use to measure their 'power'), that being said, for the most part, their size determines their field of effect, not their 'power'...

With all of that being said, that is another point, not only is there no permanent magnet powerful enough to damage a drive, the size of magnet required to actually penetrate far enough to even reach the platters is quite large, indeed, large enough that you would not be playing with it much, mostly for fear of broken fingers.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justinator*
> 
> Hi, could I please join?
> Really looking forward to giving this board a workout!
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/yrhnq9


Added and welcome!

Update

Still poised w/ Kernel-power Event ID 41 issues. Really hoping its not PSU related though many forums with different configurations have pointed out other issues. All which I've been attempting.

Cadaveca hoping you're on here today.

Longest I've been able to get it to run is around an hour, and this is only when its above 1.335v it seems That or possibly lower, is when the BSOD's stop w/ the 0x124 codes and it simple just shutsdown for a moment then restarts.

I've updated all drivers,chipset etc, even noticed I didn't have Intel MEI installed. Wireless/Blutooth is disabled atm in bios

#Edit I found this excerpt from Raja which MIGHT be related seeing as PSU checks out, and swapped out surge protectors already.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raja*
> *CPU Current Inrush only helps cure resets caused by OCP tripping* - not those caused by memory instability due to insufficient VCCSA and VTT voltage. The Current Inrush setting modifies the FB loop and a setting of enabled is preferred for 24/7 systems from what I have seen. A setting of disabled increases momentary current drawn (without the FB loop countering to increase voltage) hence whey people running this on Auto/Disabled need to set their CPU Current Capability set so high.
> 
> Default CPU Current Capability is 140%. WIth CPU Current Inrush at Auto (disabled) at stock CPU frequency some CPUs may trip OCP unless OCP is set to 160%+ If CPU CUrrent Inrush is enabled, 140% OCP is fine an will run Prime for hours without tripping OCP. Also bear in mind that if one starts setting OCP manually, as the system is overclocked, an OCP over 140% (but is should not be by much) may be required even with CPU Current Inrush Enabled.
> 
> In truth you can run the system either way if you prefer as long as it is stable; voltage and current are intrinsically related (P=VA). Just depends which way you want to skin the cat, less voltage more current, or less current more voltage. I think on air/water cooling most CPUs will prefer the latter.
> 
> -Raja


----------



## cadaveca

@LunaP:

Yeah, set current limit to the maximum value, 180% or 160% or whatever it is; leaving on auto doesn't work well for me at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> They are much more powerful than they appear, even the most powerful N50 Neodymoim magnets (I have about 200 of them, and another 20 in 1/2"x3/4"x1" size) have a range about the same. The distance of magnets only increases with size, not power... The 'power' you speak of is a measurement of their ability to 'stick' to something, or what is referred to as their 'pull force', there is no measure of their field of effect (at least not in common use to measure their 'power'), that being said, for the most part, their size determines their field of effect, not their 'power'...
> 
> With all of that being said, that is another point, not only is there no permanent magnet powerful enough to damage a drive, the size of magnet required to actually penetrate far enough to even reach the platters is quite large, indeed, large enough that you would not be playing with it much, mostly for fear of broken fingers.


I think you missed the point that we don't send electrons as power. We send electromotive force... or magnetism... as power. The difference in this force applied to a conductor can induce a voltage, or power, and this induced potential can affect the delivery of power and is how magnets can be a problem. Are magnets likely to be a problem in PCs? Not really. The thing that might be a problem is the drive platter spinning with different magnetic potentials can make it a generator, whiuch can build a charge over time, and corrupt data. This is kind of basic electricity stuff, IMHO.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> @LunaP:
> I think you missed the point that we don't send electrons as power. We send electromotive force... or magnetism... as power. The difference in this force applied to a conductor can induce a voltage, or power, and this induced potential can affect the delivery of power and is how magnets can be a problem. Are magnets likely to be a problem in PCs? Not really. The thing that might be a problem is the drive platter spinning with different magnetic potentials can make it a generator, whiuch can build a charge over time, and corrupt data. This is kind of basic electricity stuff, IMHO.


In that case the internal magnets would surely be a problem on a continuous basis, given that they are directly over the wiring on the drive... Regardless, no magnets any of us (probably) own are likely to cause problems with HDD's, the original comment was regarding me installing magnets in my STH10 to replace the ball&socket system, and not only given that as far as I have found never has a permanent magnet been recorded as damaging a drive, regardless of the rating or size, but the nearest drive to a magnet in my implementation is ~8", and on top of that, magnets have been around HDD's for years and years without so much as a byte missing, I doubt anything is going to start out of the blue.

One more thing to consider, HDD's use an electromagnet to read and write data, not a permanent magnet, these operate on very different principles and mechanics, the read/write head is an incredibly precise instrument, specifically tuned to perform on the substrate of the platter on which they work, that is, you couldn't take the read/write head out of a six year old 1TB drive and use it in a modern 6TB drive, and vice versa... It's not a 'general principle of magnetism writes to the drive' kind of system, it's an incredibly precise system, in which every component has to operate with incredible precision, and simply put, a magnet isn't just going to muck that up by waving it around... Not to mention the drive's error correction that would catch any errors that would possibly be caused by a magnet somehow interfering with the wires (which as stated is just not possible or it would be happening constantly due to the internal neodymium - Rare Earth - magnets)

That being said, if you prefer to avoid the whole discussion altogether and just keep magnets in a different room from your computer, I have no argument with that.


----------



## cadaveca

I just reviewed the ASRock Z97 M8, it has pretty strong magnets as door closures. I'm fairly confident that you'll be fine if you use the right type of magnets. Flat button-type would be my recommendation.

Permanent magnet or electromagnet doesn't matter. What matters is that two magnets passing over each other creates a difference in potential, which creates voltage. Doesn't matter the type of magnet. All power we use today is generated this way...all of it. Coal, nuclear, hydro...all spin a magnet by a coil, this induces voltage in the coil (which isn't a magnet), and this electromotive force is then passed along a conductor.

The same is done by a platter spinning by a magnet, should the magnetic force reach the platter. But, as you surmised, drives are shielded from this, so yeah, you have nothing to worry about.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I just reviewed the ASRock Z97 M8, it has pretty strong magnets as door closures. I'm fairly confident that you'll be fine if you use the right type of magnets. Flat button-type would be my recommendation.


Just out of curiosity, you mention the right kind of magnets being a particular shape. Why would that matter and not the N rating? I am just curious as to your reasoning for this, in that perhaps there is something I am unaware of that could affect the magnetic field in such a scenario.

Thanks!


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, you mention the right kind of magnets being a particular shape. Why would that matter and not the N rating? I am just curious as to your reasoning for this, in that perhaps there is something I am unaware of that could affect the magnetic field in such a scenario.
> 
> Thanks!


As you said, the magnetic field doesn't go far. the field goes quickly around the magnet, from pole to pole. However, things that have the right potential can grab the magnetic field, and make it travel further. It takes the path of least resistance, and air has a pretty high resistance. By using a button magnet, which has poles on the flat sides, the field doesn't travel far, and has less potential to travel through the case itself.

"N" rating is nothing. it says that it's a neodymium magnet. The numbers after refer something, but size and shape matter more. That's why I suggested button magnets.


----------



## skupples

The life of a Caselabs owner... Welp, time to clean her out, better get my pliers, and screwdriver to bend the ball sockets back into place.


----------



## electro2u

Skupples are you going to change that Avatar after Thanksgiving/November is over? It makes me... uncomfortable


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Skupples are you going to change that Avatar after Thanksgiving/November is over? It makes me... uncomfortable


I'm planning to slap a Christmas hat on Miley's head, and a condom hanging from her ear once we get a bit closer to Christmas, then yes i'll change it. Either back to Bugs bunny sawing off Florida, or the Kid wearing a Guy Fawkes mask getting busted by his mummy w/ a plate of cookies.









I told someone else that I wouldn't change it until I stop laughing @ it every time I See it. Would be epic if her tongue was moving as well.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> @LunaP:
> 
> Yeah, set current limit to the maximum value, 180% or 160% or whatever it is; leaving on auto doesn't work well for me at all.


K set to 180%
OCP to disabled
Also set to high vs auto for capability for the 180%
Set Inrush to disabled

Running again, also noticed that Corsair link does NOT under any cirucmstance detect if you have 2 PSU's even though both are plugged into the motherboard via the USB -> Dongle cables it will only show one. I'm curious if as long as the Software can't access it if it auto defaults to multi rail mode, at which point SOMEHOW its being tripped, however I've disconnected both and hooked up one at a time and rebooted each however oddly whenever I load up the software the previous profile made for one auto assumes to the other.

My reasoning on this is I've created a fan profile of a fixed % vs default of never turning on. The only time the fan comes on is IF I load the corsair software, so I'm wondering if there's some defect with this that corsair overlooked...

Currently monitoring the PSU that the CPU and board are hooked through and poewr is never going above 161W for in and 142 for out.

I have 2x 1200AXi's btw as opposed to the original AX1200i + AX860i I originally had.

2 GPU's hooked up to 1 and the board + 1 GPU hooked up to the other.

There's always the AX1500i, though I'd rather keep things separated to keep the load down.

Here's a pic taken currently while running prime, also curious as to why those temps in HWinfo for the motherboard state near 100C... hoping thats normal.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm planning to slap a Christmas hat on Miley's head, and a condom hanging from her ear once we get a bit closer to Christmas, then yes i'll change it. Either back to Bugs bunny sawing off Florida, or the Kid wearing a Guy Fawkes mask getting busted by his mummy w/ a plate of cookies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told someone else that I wouldn't change it until I stop laughing @ it every time I See it. *Would be epic if her tongue was moving as well*.


Challenge accepted...

Also on another note, need to figure out HOW I'm going to flush out my loop next month since it will be coming up on a year since I filled it almost. I forgot to leave an area to leak out which I will def doo this time. My only option for now would be to release one of the caps on the lower end of my bay res w/ paper towels till I get a fast connector in there. Since I'd be using plastic tubing to get to the bucket...or just make one that goes out possibly.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I told someone else that I wouldn't change it until I stop laughing @ it every time I See it. Would be epic if her tongue was moving as well.












@Alancsalt Please leave my memes alone







(P.S. I <3 you)


----------



## LunaP

Well good news is I had a BSOD this time at least vs just shutting down, so possibly I'm on to something.

vCore was 1.36
VTT was 1.2
VCCSA was 1.25

Changed vCore to 1.38
VTT to 1.15
VCCSA to 1.2

If it BSOD's again I'll change it from High -> Very high

After that Raja mentioned for lulz to set VTT to 1.25 and VCCSA to 1.3 to see if it still has issues but that's as a last result type. Seeing as its a voltage issue, I'm glad its not RAM related at least.

Still running Prime in blend mode. Gonna leave it running again, average time for it ti shutoff/BSOD is 25-42 minutes roughly.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> K set to 180%
> OCP to disabled
> Also set to high vs auto for capability for the 180%
> Set Inrush to disabled
> 
> Running again, also noticed that Corsair link does NOT under any cirucmstance detect if you have 2 PSU's even though both are plugged into the motherboard via the USB -> Dongle cables it will only show one. I'm curious if as long as the Software can't access it if it auto defaults to multi rail mode, at which point SOMEHOW its being tripped, however I've disconnected both and hooked up one at a time and rebooted each however oddly whenever I load up the software the previous profile made for one auto assumes to the other.
> 
> My reasoning on this is I've created a fan profile of a fixed % vs default of never turning on. The only time the fan comes on is IF I load the corsair software, so I'm wondering if there's some defect with this that corsair overlooked...
> 
> Currently monitoring the PSU that the CPU and board are hooked through and poewr is never going above 161W for in and 142 for out.
> 
> I have 2x 1200AXi's btw as opposed to the original AX1200i + AX860i I originally had.
> 
> 2 GPU's hooked up to 1 and the board + 1 GPU hooked up to the other.
> 
> There's always the AX1500i, though I'd rather keep things separated to keep the load down.
> 
> Here's a pic taken currently while running prime, also curious as to why those temps in HWinfo for the motherboard state near 100C... hoping thats normal.
> 
> 
> Challenge accepted...
> 
> Also on another note, need to figure out HOW I'm going to flush out my loop next month since it will be coming up on a year since I filled it almost. I forgot to leave an area to leak out which I will def doo this time. My only option for now would be to release one of the caps on the lower end of my bay res w/ paper towels till I get a fast connector in there. Since I'd be using plastic tubing to get to the bucket...or just make one that goes out possibly.






After years of taking PCs to the sink to drain, & wasting precious dollars on good coolant down the drain, I finally put 3 ports on the STH10. One on each top rad, and one on the lowest point of the PC. It doesn't get EVERYTHING OUT, but it gets enough out.

Now I just put a tube on either top port & blow the fluid out.

I'm not sure if uncapping your bayres will be sufficient enough to drain the loop, unless its at the bottom of your rig, I haven't actually looked at your build log in quite some time. Uncapping the res will be required to remove the seal / vacuum, but beyond that, you're likely in for quite the PITA cleaning. I've also used a drill pump in the past, but that ruins the coolant, as the manufacturers fill the pumps up with grease.

On a side note, I just drained most of my fluid to get the 4930K in, and low & behold the fluid was still crystal clear, the fins in my CPU block were completely clean, & peeping into the rads showed those were completely clean as well. So, I can officially say, without a shadow of doubt, that Mayhem's X1 clear is by far the best coolant I've ever used. EVERYTHING ELSE, EK, additives, dead water, kill coils, liquid utopia, all of that stuff ALWAYS caused issues with clogged fins & build up, but Mayhem's X1 seems to have been as good as Mick claims... even if it does smell just like whiskey.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> As you said, the magnetic field doesn't go far. the field goes quickly around the magnet, from pole to pole. However, things that have the right potential can grab the magnetic field, and make it travel further. It takes the path of least resistance, and air has a pretty high resistance. By using a button magnet, which has poles on the flat sides, the field doesn't travel far, and has less potential to travel through the case itself.
> 
> "N" rating is nothing. it says that it's a neodymium magnet. The numbers after refer something, but size and shape matter more. That's why I suggested button magnets.


I do not believe that magnetic fields work like that... That would mean that a magnetic field in a vacuum would have unlimited reach, since there is no resistance... There are factors that can potentiate magnetic fields, like adding more magnets, but I am not certain that certain configurations can just increase magnetic field propogation, otherwise why would we need superconductors? We could just create these 'configurations' you mention..

That being said, I do not know for certain this to be incorrect, but in all of my 'research' into magnetism I've never heard of such a thing, which doesn't mean it can't exist, just that I've not seen an example. If you can provide any information on that it would be greatly appreciated. 

The 'N' number is actually what describes the Maximum Energy Product of a given material, so in reality that describes the most important aspect of a magnet... Why would the 'N' number exist if it wasn't for anything? So a material with an N35 rating has a lower capacity for a magnetic field than an N50 material, which is why it is used to describe the comparative 'strength' of a magnet. That is to say, all things being equal, making a magnet with an N35 rated matieral and another with an N50 rated material, the N50 will be inherently more 'powerful'... This is what the N number is for... The number is a shorthand way of saying 'Millions of Units Oersted'. Higher number, greater capacity for magnetic 'strength'...

By the way, I am REALLY enjoying this discussion! Thank you!


----------



## cadaveca

You need to attend college, or find online courses about magnetism.

As I said, the field passes from pole to pole. In that path, the field can be disturbed by a medium that provides less resistance... but it will still tend to travel from pole to pole. So in a vacuum, it would travel easily from pole to pole, and the tendancy to travel through other mediums would be lessened. That is all.

Geometry pertains to magnetic fields and electricity in a big way. Once you understand how vector diagrams pertain to electricity, maybe this would make more sense to you. Goemetry affects the "N" rating. "N" stands for neodymium, the numbers after refer to the strength, but that strength is modified by the shape of the magnet. So a square and a cylinder wit the same N40 rating would have different strengths.

Let me put it this way...in school, you probably learned that electricity is the flow of electrons along a conductor. This is incorrect. electrons don't move from the material they are attached to, but what does transfer is the "magnetic moment", via electrons. The torque, or the speed and strength of this magnetic moment is "current".

This subject is pretty in-depth, and my explanations might not be 100% accurate, either, but they are pretty close, and close enough for you to understand the general ideas, perhaps. It takes DAYS and DAYS to explain this stuff fully, and I don't have the time, nor is this the right arena to entertain such discussions. The best I can say is that you need to do some research, or attend school.









Or perhaps a certain lady here can explain better than I can.









My basic understanding of these concepts is WHY my approach to overclocking and such is a bit different than others may have, IMHO. But this stuff is really so complicated....


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You need to attend college, or find online courses about magnetism.
> 
> As I said, the field passes from pole to pole. In that path, the field can be disturbed by a medium that provides less resistance... but it will still tend to travel from pole to pole. So in a vacuum, it would travel easily from pole to pole, and the tendancy to travel through other mediums would be lessened. That is all.
> 
> Geometry pertains to magnetic fields and electricity in a big way. Once you understand how vector diagrams pertain to electricity, maybe this would make more sense to you. Goemetry affects the "N" rating. "N" stands for neodymium, the numbers after refer to the strength, but that strength is modified by the shape of the magnet. So a square and a cylinder wit the same N40 rating would have different strengths.
> 
> Let me put it this way...in school, you probably learned that electricity is the flow of electrons along a conductor. This is incorrect. electrons don't move from the material they are attached to, but what does transfer is the "magnetic moment", via electrons. The torque, or the speed and strength of this magnetic moment is "current".
> 
> This subject is pretty in-depth, and my explanations might not be 100% accurate, either, but they are pretty close, and close enough for you to understand the general ideas, perhaps. It takes DAYS and DAYS to explain this stuff fully, and I don't have the time, nor is this the right arena to entertain such discussions. The best I can say is that you need to do some research, or attend school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or perhaps a certain lady here can explain better than I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My basic understanding of these concepts is WHY my approach to overclocking and such is a bit different than others may have, IMHO. But this stuff is really so complicated....


What??


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> What??


Science? ROFL.

Start here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_moment

LuLz.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You need to attend college, or find online courses about magnetism.
> 
> As I said, the field passes from pole to pole. In that path, the field can be disturbed by a medium that provides less resistance... but it will still tend to travel from pole to pole. So in a vacuum, it would travel easily from pole to pole, and the tendancy to travel through other mediums would be lessened. That is all.
> 
> Geometry pertains to magnetic fields and electricity in a big way. Once you understand how vector diagrams pertain to electricity, maybe this would make more sense to you. Goemetry affects the "N" rating. "N" stands for neodymium, the numbers after refer to the strength, but that strength is modified by the shape of the magnet. So a square and a cylinder wit the same N40 rating would have different strengths.
> 
> Let me put it this way...in school, you probably learned that electricity is the flow of electrons along a conductor. This is incorrect. electrons don't move from the material they are attached to, but what does transfer is the "magnetic moment", via electrons. The torque, or the speed and strength of this magnetic moment is "current".
> 
> This subject is pretty in-depth, and my explanations might not be 100% accurate, either, but they are pretty close, and close enough for you to understand the general ideas, perhaps. It takes DAYS and DAYS to explain this stuff fully, and I don't have the time, nor is this the right arena to entertain such discussions. The best I can say is that you need to do some research, or attend school.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or perhaps a certain lady here can explain better than I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My basic understanding of these concepts is WHY my approach to overclocking and such is a bit different than others may have, IMHO. But this stuff is really so complicated....


From what I have learned the shape of a magnet is a very, very small factor in regards to its strength, in that a pointed magnet is able to put more of the magnetic field into a single point, but is doesn't make the magnetic 'more powerful' as a whole, that is based entirely on the composition of the magnet... Geometry does not, in any way whatsoever, determine the N rating, the N rating is applied before the magnet is even made, it is the rating of *the potential* a material has for magnetism...

"The grade, or "N rating" of the magnet refers to the Maximum Energy Product of the material that the magnet is made from. It refers to the maximum strength that the material can be magnetized to."

As far as the magnetic moment, torque is a rotational force, and magnetic moment describes the torque that a magnet will experience for an alternate or rather external magnetic field... Not something an individual magnet has... That is, again, from my understanding, the rotational force that will be generated from the magnets inside a motor, that would be the magnetic moment...


----------



## skupples

did someone just get hacked? why the lulz?









why are people debating magnets anyways?

The guy wants to use tiny magnets to replace the terrible ball >> Cup system Caselabs uses. These things will be rather far away from any platters due to how Caselabs stashes their disks, thus he should have zero issues gluing some baby magnets to the different panels of the case. It honestly seems like a great idea, tons of cases use magnets for their panels & doors.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> From what I have learned the shape of a magnet is a very, very small factor in regards to its strength, in that a pointed magnet is able to put more of the magnetic field into a single point, but is doesn't make the magnetic 'more powerful' as a whole, that is based entirely on the composition of the magnet... Geometry does not, in any way whatsoever, determine the N rating, the N rating is applied before the magnet is even made, it is the rating of *the potential* a material has for magnetism...
> 
> "The grade, or "N rating" of the magnet refers to the Maximum Energy Product of the material that the magnet is made from. It refers to the maximum strength that the material can be magnetized to."


Yeah, the geometry of the magnet's shape can displace the magnetic field, and make it stronger or weaker. It affects the travel of the field, not the strength, so that the full "strength" may not be noticed at any given point since the field can be compressed or expanded as it travels from pole to pole.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> As far as the magnetic moment, torque is a rotational force, and magnetic moment describes the torque that a magnet will experience for an alternate or rather external magnetic field... Not something an individual magnet has... That is, again, from my understanding, the rotational force that will be generated from the magnets inside a motor, that would be the magnetic moment...


Magnet doesn't "experience" the torque. It CAUSES the "experience", by means of it's magnetic field. The closer to the field, and the angle of the field in relation to what's "feeling" the field is the magnetic moment... or a moment of felt magnetism.







that's how generators work.. the conductor passes through the magnetic field, the field affects the electrons within the conductor, causing them to spin differently, and this "energy" is then transferred from electron to electron along the conductor. The "torque" is the spin on the electrons, and doesn't necessarily have to come from any rotational movement. You can go in straight lines over a magnet, back and forth, and induce a current. Read the first paragraph of the wiki link. Then read this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Einstein%E2%80%93de_Haas_effect
Quote:


> Given the fact that an external magnetic field, here generated by driving electric current through the coil, leads to magnetisation of electron spins in the material (or to reversal of electron spins in an already magnetised ferromagnet - provided that the direction of the applied electric current is appropriately chosen), the Einstein-de Haas effect demonstrates that spin angular momentum is indeed of the same nature as the angular momentum of rotating bodies as conceived in classical mechanics


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> did someone just get hacked? why the lulz?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why are people debating magnets anyways?
> 
> The guy wants to use tiny magnets to replace the terrible ball >> Cup system Caselabs uses. These things will be rather far away from any platters due to how Caselabs stashes their disks, thus he should have zero issues gluing some baby magnets to the different panels of the case. It honestly seems like a great idea, tons of cases use magnets for their panels & doors.


I think you answered your own question.







Then someone said "ahhh, not good idea!!!", he said, "why", then "beucase HDD+magnet=death", then>


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> After years of taking PCs to the sink to drain, & wasting precious dollars on good coolant down the drain, I finally put 3 ports on the STH10. One on each top rad, and one on the lowest point of the PC. It doesn't get EVERYTHING OUT, but it gets enough out.
> 
> Now I just put a tube on either top port & blow the fluid out.
> 
> I'm not sure if uncapping your bayres will be sufficient enough to drain the loop, unless its at the bottom of your rig, I haven't actually looked at your build log in quite some time. Uncapping the res will be required to remove the seal / vacuum, but beyond that, you're likely in for quite the PITA cleaning. I've also used a drill pump in the past, but that ruins the coolant, as the manufacturers fill the pumps up with grease.
> 
> On a side note, I just drained most of my fluid to get the 4930K in, and low & behold the fluid was still crystal clear, the fins in my CPU block were completely clean, & peeping into the rads showed those were completely clean as well. So, I can officially say, without a shadow of doubt, that Mayhem's X1 clear is by far the best coolant I've ever used. EVERYTHING ELSE, EK, additives, dead water, kill coils, liquid utopia, all of that stuff ALWAYS caused issues with clogged fins & build up, but Mayhem's X1 seems to have been as good as Mick claims... even if it does smell just like whiskey.


Ahh wrong res, that ones there just for looks, the bay res is what I'm talking about the one w/ 4 ports. Remember I hooked into the top ones like an idiot when I should have used the bottom ones. I just need to open a port long enough to hook up a plastic tube to hook into the fish pond pump that's going around w/ the home depot bucket and the small pump to cycle clean distilled water through.

The question at this point would be, do I do it in my room? Unhook everything and take it outside, or just have 2 buckets, both w/ clean distilled water and a 3rd bucket to empty out the first into once it gets a bit low.

Also I've 0 experience in cleaning out a loop, and I've only been running w/ distilled water + 4 drops of dead water which I just added a few more the other day while topping off. I've read up on vinegar, dish soap etc, but wanting to know the best method from what I should flush through with, I can also pull out my son's wash tub since he's big enough to not use it and put some soapy hot water in there, and only turn on the PSU to the pump w/o having anything else fire up. My guess would be to flush out for a few hours w/ light vinegar then soap water then clean water THEN fill?

On a side note and on topic, looks like I may have a winner here... @ the last settings I popped in 1.38 vcore and 1.15 VTT and 1.2 VCCSA prime is STILL running, this is with OCP disabled along w/ inrush disabled. I saw no notes from Raja and others stating it would be bad to have it off just many recommendations to have it off to begin w/ as it DOES cause OCP trippings, however I do recall having it on 180% earlier but on auto, but this time its on 180% @High w/ everything off so as long as this won't be causing any issues and since I"m on a good surge protector, and as long as cad doesn't feel otherwise, then I'll leave it at that.

Might try 1.375v later tonight once this finished.

been going strong for 3 1/2 hours now.


----------



## cadaveca

You may want to try lowering VCCSA and VTT after your stability run, too, but of course, you want to only try one change at a time, so you've got like a week of testing left.









I've been working on this:



Maybe I can adapt something here....


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ahh wrong res, that ones there just for looks, the bay res is what I'm talking about the one w/ 4 ports. Remember I hooked into the top ones like an idiot when I should have used the bottom ones. I just need to open a port long enough to hook up a plastic tube to hook into the fish pond pump that's going around w/ the home depot bucket and the small pump to cycle clean distilled water through.
> 
> The question at this point would be, do I do it in my room? Unhook everything and take it outside, or just have 2 buckets, both w/ clean distilled water and a 3rd bucket to empty out the first into once it gets a bit low.
> 
> Also I've 0 experience in cleaning out a loop, and I've only been running w/ distilled water + 4 drops of dead water which I just added a few more the other day while topping off. I've read up on vinegar, dish soap etc, but wanting to know the best method from what I should flush through with, I can also pull out my son's wash tub since he's big enough to not use it and put some soapy hot water in there, and only turn on the PSU to the pump w/o having anything else fire up. My guess would be to flush out for a few hours w/ light vinegar then soap water then clean water THEN fill?
> 
> On a side note and on topic, looks like I may have a winner here... @ the last settings I popped in 1.38 vcore and 1.15 VTT and 1.2 VCCSA prime is STILL running, this is with OCP disabled along w/ inrush disabled. I saw no notes from Raja and others stating it would be bad to have it off just many recommendations to have it off to begin w/ as it DOES cause OCP trippings, however I do recall having it on 180% earlier but on auto, but this time its on 180% @High w/ everything off so as long as this won't be causing any issues and since I"m on a good surge protector, and as long as cad doesn't feel otherwise, then I'll leave it at that.
> 
> Might try 1.375v later tonight once this finished.
> 
> been going strong for 3 1/2 hours now.






you're only using dead water? Your pond pump idea sounds great. Unfortunately, if your experience is anything like mine with deadwater, you could have some build up issues.

I would 100% Avoid using soap, but the most recommended method as of recent is a light acid bath, with a second rinse w/ backing soda, then a rinse of distilled.

AFTER you've done all that, take the time to invest in some quality coolant for your giant thousands of dollars pile of PC components. Like I said in my above rant, I've never seen ANY product keep a loop as clean as Mayhems Clear X1/


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You may want to try lowering VCCSA and VTT after your stability run, too, but of course, you want to only try one change at a time, so you've got like a week of testing left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been working on this:
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I can adapt something here....


I'll lower VCCSA to 1.5 next if that goes well I'll pop VTT to 1.05, after that if all is good then Vcore to 1.375 and do .05 increments from there. Since this appears to be more vCore related than anything, however given that the settings for the mem push 1.25 for VCCSA for 2400 I feel that 1.2 may be about right for 2133 however nothing wrong w/ trying out lower.

Timings however are rock solid as far as memtest 86+ goes and playing for hours daily on gaming + much more next missed a beat, so I'm quite surprised they locked in so well for so much mem.

I'm curious if the whole inrush/OCP issue was the reason I was unable to push my chip past 4.5, since the highest I was able to achieve was 4.6 on block 150 iirc. As soon as I'd set anything higher than 4.5 I'd have windows garble out and the video drivers would instantly corrupt.

I'm curious how long it would take you to get 128gb clocked and tweaked haha.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> you're only using dead water? Your pond pump idea sounds great. Unfortunately, if your experience is anything like mine with deadwater, you could have some build up issues.
> 
> I would 100% Avoid using soap, but the most recommended method as of recent is a light acid bath, with a second rinse w/ backing soda, then a rinse of distilled.
> 
> AFTER you've done all that, take the time to invest in some quality coolant for your giant thousands of dollars pile of PC components. Like I said in my above rant, I've never seen ANY product keep a loop as clean as Mayhems Clear X1/


Ah I remember when I was first building this EVERYONE in the watercooling club told me to stay away from mayhems and pointed me @ deadwater. Hoping I don't end up with the issues your mentioning though. I don't see anything in either res so I'd guess it'd be built up within the blocks themselves? Hopefully a wash could push them out, but I'll go ahead and order Mayhems clear X1 tonight if that's the case, that + the pump and all just gotta figure how I'm gonna do all this....

I think I'll fill up one bucket w/ w/e solution you mentioned procures a "light acid bath" (you'll have to explain this one )

2nd Bucket w/ baking soda ( how much to mix in w/ the water? )

And 3rd w/ distilled, after which I'll drain it , rinse again then top up.

Should all 3 buckets be HOT water ? I figured that might help and its not like it'll be 100C I"m sure the tubing will handle it easily.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> did someone just get hacked? why the lulz?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why are people debating magnets anyways?
> 
> The guy wants to use tiny magnets to replace the terrible ball >> Cup system Caselabs uses. These things will be rather far away from any platters due to how Caselabs stashes their disks, thus he should have zero issues gluing some baby magnets to the different panels of the case. It honestly seems like a great idea, tons of cases use magnets for their panels & doors.


I'm working on the remote control door operator for my TH10A Chiller build, and I'll be using small electro-magnets to replace the ball & cup door holding mechanism so that I can have them release when the door starts opening so it moves smoothly from start to finish, and them re-energizes to catch the door securely when it closes again.

I can't imagine there's anything to worry about with magnets tuned to just hold the door closed firmly.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'll lower VCCSA to 1.5 next if that goes well I'll pop VTT to 1.05, after that if all is good then Vcore to 1.375 and do .05 increments from there. Since this appears to be more vCore related than anything, however given that the settings for the mem push 1.25 for VCCSA for 2400 I feel that 1.2 may be about right for 2133 however nothing wrong w/ trying out lower.
> 
> Timings however are rock solid as far as memtest 86+ goes and playing for hours daily on gaming + much more next missed a beat, so I'm quite surprised they locked in so well for so much mem.
> 
> I'm curious if the whole inrush/OCP issue was the reason I was unable to push my chip past 4.5, since the highest I was able to achieve was 4.6 on block 150 iirc. As soon as I'd set anything higher than 4.5 I'd have windows garble out and the video drivers would instantly corrupt.
> 
> I'm curious how long it would take you to get 128gb clocked and tweaked haha.
> Ah I remember when I was first building this EVERYONE in the watercooling club told me to stay away from mayhems and pointed me @ deadwater. Hoping I don't end up with the issues your mentioning though. I don't see anything in either res so I'd guess it'd be built up within the blocks themselves? Hopefully a wash could push them out, but I'll go ahead and order Mayhems clear X1 tonight if that's the case, that + the pump and all just gotta figure how I'm gonna do all this....
> 
> I think I'll fill up one bucket w/ w/e solution you mentioned procures a "light acid bath" (you'll have to explain this one )
> 
> 2nd Bucket w/ baking soda ( how much to mix in w/ the water? )
> 
> And 3rd w/ distilled, after which I'll drain it , rinse again then top up.
> 
> Should all 3 buckets be HOT water ? I figured that might help and its not like it'll be 100C I"m sure the tubing will handle it easily.






I'm guessing they were probably pointing you away from using Mayhem's dyes, or Aurora, or any of those other made from Japanese Pigeon poop products he makes, as they aren't ideal for long term use. They're show products, but like I said above. I'm officially an X1 fanboy. Like seriously, anyone that recommended JUST Deadwater over an all inclusive product like X1 that's a surfactant, anti-corrosive, anti-growth product... they must have been on the broken light bulb that day.

Getting 128GB stable on X79 is probably a nightmare, even with the super high test ram it requires to do so. You would probably be looking @ bone stock CPU, and 1333-1600 mhz memory.

Hot water helps, but don't wreck your self over this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm working on the remote control door operator for my TH10A Chiller build, and I'll be using small electro-magnets to replace the ball & cup door holding mechanism so that I can have them release when the door starts opening so it moves smoothly from start to finish, and them re-energizes to catch the door securely when it closes again.
> 
> I can't imagine there's anything to worry about with magnets tuned to just hold the door closed firmly.
> 
> Darlene


hey uh... Did Stretch Limo ever get turned on?!


----------



## LunaP

I think Darlene posted a video to the thread prior to me disappearing for so long. I remmeber the video of the doors opening via remote which was pretty awesome.

5 hours now on prime and its passing everything I think its safe to start changing up settings again and drop down a bit. I'll start w/ VCCSA first. Since that's the biggest factor, then go for VTT, once that's settled I'll drop down vCore unless VTT would support vcore slightly then I could even them out.


----------



## skupples

I remember that, I just don't remember ever seeing water flowing through the whole thing. Probably missed it.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I remember that, *I just don't remember ever seeing water flowing through the whole thing*. Probably missed it.


Here you go


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Wait! Darlene's Stretch Limo build went over Niagara Falls?

NOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooooooo!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Here you go


lol, didn't have to watch for more than .5 seconds to know something bad was going to happen. That Hallmark voice of doom, gloom, and sometimes even propaganda!


----------



## LunaP

Haha sorry I had to..

Anywhoo here we go success



Now to work backwards lol.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, the geometry of the magnet's shape can displace the magnetic field, and make it stronger or weaker. It affects the travel of the field, not the strength, so that the full "strength" may not be noticed at any given point since the field can be compressed or expanded as it travels from pole to pole.
> Magnet doesn't "experience" the torque. It CAUSES the "experience", by means of it's magnetic field. The closer to the field, and the angle of the field in relation to what's "feeling" the field is the magnetic moment... or a moment of felt magnetism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's how generators work.. the conductor passes through the magnetic field, the field affects the electrons within the conductor, causing them to spin differently, and this "energy" is then transferred from electron to electron along the conductor. The "torque" is the spin on the electrons, and doesn't necessarily have to come from any rotational movement. You can go in straight lines over a magnet, back and forth, and induce a current. Read the first paragraph of the wiki link.


Okay, I misunderstood your initial arargument, additionally what I was finding was regarding a physical rotational force, not the 'electrical' rotational force.

How did this ever get so far from the original topic? Regardless, on both counts, it would take an incredibly precise permanent magnet to A: Damage data on a drive (where the topic originated), or to B: Interfere with the writing of data to a drive, and C: Induce an electrical current in the copper wires (Dont the wires need to be coiled in a particular relation to the magnet?).

So I feel confident that my initial statement still stands, permanent magnets≠hard drive damage...


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> So I feel confident that my initial statement still stands, permanent magnets≠hard drive damage...


Yeah, exactly. I wasn't trying to say anything different, just went off on a tangent, because you asked why I suggested button-style magnets.









And to that, my point was that because the distance between poles is smaller, the chances of causing issues with anything is less.










P.S., as to issues with wires, the wires need to move across the magnetic field in order to induce a voltage (ie. like how a generator spins).

A magnet, if strong enough, if near enough, to a platter, could corrupt data (magnet wouldn't have to move, the platter does that already). But it'd have to sit DIRECTLY on the drive, if not on the platter itself. Drive casings are "insulated" from most issues, anyway, and the needed magnetic force is larger on modern drives than it is on older ones, thanks to perpendicular recording tech, and the data density.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, exactly. I wasn't trying to say anything different, just went off on a tangent, because you asked why I suggested button-style magnets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And to that, my point was that because the distance between poles is smaller, the chances of causing issues with anything is less.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S., as to issues with wires, the wires need to move across the magnetic field in order to induce a voltage (ie. like how a generator spins).
> 
> A magnet, if strong enough, if near enough, to a platter, could corrupt data (magnet wouldn't have to move, the platter does that already). But it'd have to sit DIRECTLY on the drive, if not on the platter itself. Drive casings are "insulated" from most issues, anyway, and the needed magnetic force is larger on modern drives than it is on older ones, thanks to perpendicular recording tech, and the data density.


Gotcha, I thought you were explaining how magnets *can* damage hard drives...

Everything that I have learned about hard drives tells me that it is particularly impossible to destroy data on a drive with a permanent magnet, since the degaussing machines that destroy data do so with an electromagnet, and the read/write head is an electromagnet, and permanent magnets are just nowhere near precise enough... Considering the electromagnet on the r/w head is ~1/100th of the width of a hair above the platter, it is an EXTREMELY precise system, running a magnet across it just isn't goog to do anything... That is like saying that if you smack your engine with a big enough hammer it might fix it... It's a precise system that needs precise tools to change state...


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, exactly. I wasn't trying to say anything different, just went off on a tangent, because you asked why I suggested button-style magnets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And to that, my point was that because the distance between poles is smaller, the chances of causing issues with anything is less.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S., as to issues with wires, the wires need to move across the magnetic field in order to induce a voltage (ie. like how a generator spins).
> 
> A magnet, if strong enough, if near enough, to a platter, could corrupt data (magnet wouldn't have to move, the platter does that already). But it'd have to sit DIRECTLY on the drive, if not on the platter itself. Drive casings are "insulated" from most issues, anyway, and the needed magnetic force is larger on modern drives than it is on older ones, thanks to perpendicular recording tech, and the data density.


Great explaination and quote from wikipedia as if you were the author of the report "Jasper Deng" but "data density"? Maybe thats a typo, try platter density. Data is only 1's and 0's. So much for magnitism.


----------



## cadaveca

You musta been the dude saying magnets were bad.









If I sound like Wikipedia, that's because I'm taking electrical apprenticeship courses. Sorry for repeating my classes.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You musta been the dude saying magnets were bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I sound like Wikipedia, that's because I'm taking electrical apprenticeship courses. Sorry for repeating my classes.


My bad, sorry, I just "butted-in" and should have not. Magnets, no, not my interest but do know electrical EEE but it was long ago...brain fading.
My friend who graduated in Bejing U as a PHD in metals, works for a Hard company developing metals for hdd platers increasing the magnatism per micro sq. Fasinating subject but nebulous and eventually boring but non-the-less, it was the breakthru HDD companies needed to break into the "TB" territory.
I think magnets will destroy data on non-insulated data--floppy disks, the rest should be safe and nowadays, who has a mechanical HDD anyway.
Again, sorry to "butt-in"


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You musta been the dude saying magnets were bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I sound like Wikipedia, that's because I'm taking electrical apprenticeship courses. Sorry for repeating my classes.


The Earth is due for a geomagnetic reversal (where the magnetic field shifts direction) any day now--it's been 780,000 years since the last one and they usually happen every 450,000 years or so. I wonder if our hard drives will survive that?









**Wikipedia was consulted for the making of this post. All rights reserved.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The Earth is due for a geomagnetic reversal (where the magnetic field shifts direction) any day now--it's been 780,000 years since the last one and they usually happen every 450,000 years or so. I wonder if our hard drives will survive that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **Wikipedia was consulted for the making of this post. All rights reserved.


Our HHDs might survive, but humankind won't.

**Cheesy sci-fi doomsday mockbusters like 'Polar Storm' and 'Absolute Zero' were consulted for the making of this post on the irrefutable pretense that they couldn't make a film about it if it wasn't true.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'll lower VCCSA to 1.5 next if that goes well I'll pop VTT to 1.05, after that if all is good then Vcore to 1.375 and do .05 increments from there. Since this appears to be more vCore related than anything, however given that the settings for the mem push 1.25 for VCCSA for 2400 I feel that 1.2 may be about right for 2133 however nothing wrong w/ trying out lower.
> 
> Timings however are rock solid as far as memtest 86+ goes and playing for hours daily on gaming + much more next missed a beat, so I'm quite surprised they locked in so well for so much mem.
> 
> I'm curious if the whole inrush/OCP issue was the reason I was unable to push my chip past 4.5, since the highest I was able to achieve was 4.6 on block 150 iirc. As soon as I'd set anything higher than 4.5 I'd have windows garble out and the video drivers would instantly corrupt.
> 
> I'm curious how long it would take you to get 128gb clocked and tweaked haha.
> Ah I remember when I was first building this EVERYONE in the watercooling club told me to stay away from mayhems and pointed me @ deadwater. Hoping I don't end up with the issues your mentioning though. I don't see anything in either res so I'd guess it'd be built up within the blocks themselves? Hopefully a wash could push them out, but I'll go ahead and order Mayhems clear X1 tonight if that's the case, that + the pump and all just gotta figure how I'm gonna do all this....
> 
> I think I'll fill up one bucket w/ w/e solution you mentioned procures a "light acid bath" (you'll have to explain this one )
> 
> 2nd Bucket w/ baking soda ( how much to mix in w/ the water? )
> 
> And 3rd w/ distilled, after which I'll drain it , rinse again then top up.
> 
> Should all 3 buckets be HOT water ? I figured that might help and its not like it'll be 100C I"m sure the tubing will handle it easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing they were probably pointing you away from using Mayhem's dyes, or Aurora, or any of those other made from Japanese Pigeon poop products he makes, as they aren't ideal for long term use. They're show products, but like I said above. I'm officially an X1 fanboy. Like seriously, anyone that recommended JUST Deadwater over an all inclusive product like X1 that's a surfactant, anti-corrosive, anti-growth product... they must have been on the broken light bulb that day.
> 
> Getting 128GB stable on X79 is probably a nightmare, even with the super high test ram it requires to do so. You would probably be looking @ bone stock CPU, and 1333-1600 mhz memory.
> 
> Hot water helps, but don't wreck your self over this.
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm working on the remote control door operator for my TH10A Chiller build, and I'll be using small electro-magnets to replace the ball & cup door holding mechanism so that I can have them release when the door starts opening so it moves smoothly from start to finish, and them re-energizes to catch the door securely when it closes again.
> 
> I can't imagine there's anything to worry about with magnets tuned to just hold the door closed firmly.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> hey uh... Did Stretch Limo ever get turned on?!
Click to expand...

Stretch Limo is like that classic '63 split window vette coupe you've been restoring for ages . . . . . .

A labor of love, but not such an obsession that it doesn't allow for other projects to come along.

Actually, my daily driver is getting rather finicky of late, and I need to replace it, so I'm moving the Switch 810 build, (RIVE with a 3930) to a reverse TH10A and taking one of the chillers from the last chiller build, since really 1 is enough for maintaining dew point temps.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inlandchris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> You musta been the dude saying magnets were bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I sound like Wikipedia, that's because I'm taking electrical apprenticeship courses. Sorry for repeating my classes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My bad, sorry, I just "butted-in" and should have not. Magnets, no, not my interest but do know electrical EEE but it was long ago...brain fading.
> My friend who graduated in Bejing U as a PHD in metals, works for a Hard company developing metals for hdd platers increasing the magnatism per micro sq. Fasinating subject but nebulous and eventually boring but non-the-less, it was the breakthru HDD companies needed to break into the "TB" territory.
> I think magnets will destroy data on non-insulated data--floppy disks, the rest should be safe and nowadays, who has a mechanical HDD anyway.
> Again, sorry to "butt-in"
Click to expand...

i do ! <3 my mech drive
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'll lower VCCSA to 1.5 next if that goes well I'll pop VTT to 1.05, after that if all is good then Vcore to 1.375 and do .05 increments from there. Since this appears to be more vCore related than anything, however given that the settings for the mem push 1.25 for VCCSA for 2400 I feel that 1.2 may be about right for 2133 however nothing wrong w/ trying out lower.
> 
> Timings however are rock solid as far as memtest 86+ goes and playing for hours daily on gaming + much more next missed a beat, so I'm quite surprised they locked in so well for so much mem.
> 
> I'm curious if the whole inrush/OCP issue was the reason I was unable to push my chip past 4.5, since the highest I was able to achieve was 4.6 on block 150 iirc. As soon as I'd set anything higher than 4.5 I'd have windows garble out and the video drivers would instantly corrupt.
> 
> I'm curious how long it would take you to get 128gb clocked and tweaked haha.
> Ah I remember when I was first building this EVERYONE in the watercooling club told me to stay away from mayhems and pointed me @ deadwater. Hoping I don't end up with the issues your mentioning though. I don't see anything in either res so I'd guess it'd be built up within the blocks themselves? Hopefully a wash could push them out, but I'll go ahead and order Mayhems clear X1 tonight if that's the case, that + the pump and all just gotta figure how I'm gonna do all this....
> 
> I think I'll fill up one bucket w/ w/e solution you mentioned procures a "light acid bath" (you'll have to explain this one )
> 
> 2nd Bucket w/ baking soda ( how much to mix in w/ the water? )
> 
> And 3rd w/ distilled, after which I'll drain it , rinse again then top up.
> 
> Should all 3 buckets be HOT water ? I figured that might help and its not like it'll be 100C I"m sure the tubing will handle it easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing they were probably pointing you away from using Mayhem's dyes, or Aurora, or any of those other made from Japanese Pigeon poop products he makes, as they aren't ideal for long term use. They're show products, but like I said above. I'm officially an X1 fanboy. Like seriously, anyone that recommended JUST Deadwater over an all inclusive product like X1 that's a surfactant, anti-corrosive, anti-growth product... they must have been on the broken light bulb that day.
> 
> Getting 128GB stable on X79 is probably a nightmare, even with the super high test ram it requires to do so. You would probably be looking @ bone stock CPU, and 1333-1600 mhz memory.
> 
> Hot water helps, but don't wreck your self over this.
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm working on the remote control door operator for my TH10A Chiller build, and I'll be using small electro-magnets to replace the ball & cup door holding mechanism so that I can have them release when the door starts opening so it moves smoothly from start to finish, and them re-energizes to catch the door securely when it closes again.
> 
> I can't imagine there's anything to worry about with magnets tuned to just hold the door closed firmly.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> hey uh... Did Stretch Limo ever get turned on?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stretch Limo is like that classic '63 split window vette coupe you've been restoring for ages . . . . . .
> 
> A labor of love, but not such an obsession that it doesn't allow for other projects to come along.
> 
> Actually, my daily driver is getting rather finicky of late, and I need to replace it, so I'm moving the Switch 810 build, (RIVE with a 3930) to a reverse TH10A and taking one of the chillers from the last chiller build, since really 1 is enough for maintaining dew point temps.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

i cant wait to see this linky please !


----------



## LunaP

Wew! So knocked vCore down to 1.375 VCCSA to 1.15 and VTT is still @ 1.15 and ran prime for about 8 hours. Next is 1.05 for VTT, then VCCSA , will knock down .05 for vCore for each change as well.

I'm REALLY curious if thats what was causing the issues all this time. However as much as I wanna push to 4.6-4.7+ on my CPU I"m wondering if it will be worth it in Games or not ( MMO's mainly since they're so CPU intensive given the mass amount of people and such however I'm sure DX12 + Windows 10 will fix this somewhat )

# Edit

So looks like I can go a bit lower which is nice. I tried 4.6 and went straight to windows so no more issues now w/ screens locking up it was just the board witholding voltage. However as its obvious 4.6 requires way more juice, I"d assume 1.395 - 1.405 while 4.5 runs fine @ 1.37 so not sure I wanna step up THAT much just for a 100mhz increase.

4.8 BSOD's as it gets to the desktop w/ a voltage BSOD even @ 1.415 and vtt 1.2 so I"m pretty sure I'd need around 1.45 to get it stable which for 300 isn't worth the shot unless someone feels otherwise.

4.6 would have been perfect since it'd be a full 1ghz overclock, but given my RAM clock I'm sure I"ll be fine @ 4.5


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> They are much more powerful than they appear, even the most powerful N50 Neodymoim magnets (I have about 200 of them, and another 20 in 1/2"x3/4"x1" size) have a range about the same. The distance of magnets only increases with size, not power... The 'power' you speak of is a measurement of their ability to 'stick' to something, or what is referred to as their 'pull force', there is no measure of their field of effect (at least not in common use to measure their 'power'), that being said, for the most part, their size determines their field of effect, not their 'power'...
> 
> With all of that being said, that is another point, not only is there no permanent magnet powerful enough to damage a drive, the size of magnet required to actually penetrate far enough to even reach the platters is quite large, indeed, large enough that you would not be playing with it much, mostly for fear of broken fingers.


So you knew what I was talking about but wanted to argue semantics anyway? tisk tisk tisk! I was talking about reach and not holding strength and probably should have made that clearer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Science? ROFL.
> 
> Start here:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_moment
> 
> LuLz.


You lost all credibility when you posted a wiki link








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> How did this ever get so far from the original topic? Regardless, on both counts, it would take an incredibly precise permanent magnet to A: Damage data on a drive (where the topic originated), or to B: Interfere with the writing of data to a drive, and C: Induce an electrical current in the copper wires (Dont the wires need to be coiled in a particular relation to the magnet?).
> 
> So I feel confident that my initial statement still stands, permanent magnets≠hard drive damage...


Couldn't the field affect the wire carrying the data to be written? I read an article on the outset of all this that said magents near unshielded audio cables and thin ribbon cables could potentially cause issues while power cables wouldn't really be affected.

It was the integrity of the data I was initially (and still) worried about, not the actual mechanical functionality of the drive (though that's also rather important).

For C the wires don't need to be coiled but one of those would have to spin around the other to generate current if I understand it properly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The Earth is due for a geomagnetic reversal (where the magnetic field shifts direction) any day now--it's been 780,000 years since the last one and they usually happen every 450,000 years or so. I wonder if our hard drives will survive that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **Wikipedia was consulted for the making of this post. All rights reserved.


So what you're saying is I need to buy some 1tb SSDs? My wallet is already crying!


----------



## skupples

My Wallet has shed these same tears, now to muster up the strength to cough up the money it costs to get a raid card that supports TRIM. So fail that Intel only ever put 2x intel ports on X79, SOOOOO FAAIIIIILLLLLLL.

Even more fail that they pushed the TRIM support driver, then revoked it only a few days later.





















These two things alone have likely forced many people into upgrading to x99.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> You lost all credibility when you posted a wiki link












It was for the LuLz.










I had to edit and say this:

Credibility...on a tech forum?!?

Are you serious? I literally spit my coffee all over my screen when I read that. Thanks for the laugh, bud!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My Wallet has shed these same tears, now to muster up the strength to cough up the money it costs to get a raid card that supports TRIM. So fail that Intel only ever put 2x intel ports on X79, SOOOOO FAAIIIIILLLLLLL.
> 
> Even more fail that they pushed the TRIM support driver, then revoked it only a few days later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two things alone have likely forced many people into upgrading to x99.


I never understood the fascination with SSDs tbh, the speed boost never seemed worth the price tag to me. Then you add in all the bs with TRIM compatibility and taking full advantage of them; it's just too much hassle personally. It wouldn't surprise me if intel pulled the driver intentionally for that very reason though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was for the LuLz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to edit and say this:
> 
> Credibility...on a tech forum?!?
> 
> Are you serious? I literally spit my coffee all over my screen when I read that. Thanks for the laugh, bud!


Any time o7


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I never understood the fascination with SSDs tbh, the speed boost never seemed worth the price tag to me. Then you add in all the bs with TRIM compatibility and taking full advantage of them; it's just too much hassle personally. It wouldn't surprise me if intel pulled the driver intentionally for that very reason though.


Intel hypes SSD RAID for their own SSDs on X79 and the mainstream platforms, actually. But yeah, I agree, but keep in mind it is truly something about programming software for "accessibility" so that more users are "benefitted" that has the true speed advantages passed over. Either the niche-market complains, or the much larger general public does, and either way, you know what way Intel is gonna go with... the business way.

X99 was really meant to be C606, with SAS and everything else, but Intel has had many issues with drive controllers in the past (P67 V1 recall, anyone?), and it's the early adopters that always miss out.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I never understood the fascination with SSDs tbh, the speed boost never seemed worth the price tag to me. Then you add in all the bs with TRIM compatibility and taking full advantage of them; it's just too much hassle personally. It wouldn't surprise me if intel pulled the driver intentionally for that very reason though.
> Any time o7


once you go SSD you will never want to use a platter again... unless you're at work and 90% of your data is coming over the CAT, not your disks.

I mean, time spent waiting adds up, and it adds up to time wasted. Instant loading screens in games, & exponential increases in moving local data around, totally worth it.

No TRIM on X79 = don't stuff your SSDs full & you're pretty well good to go.

Also, when you look at pricing, 2 years ago $1+ a GB, now $.35 a GB for the mainstream products (intel doesn't count in this) also how modern SSDs have the tendency to actually last longer than your typical Caviar Blue,









Supposedly Intel is getting ready to release yet another large leap in SSD technology, hopefully that drives the current mainstream products even further down. SATA3 is mostly tapped out, so the only way to go is RAID, PCI-e(ewww) or M.2 (yummm) at least for now. I would assume SATA4 is around the corner. PCI-E storage doesn't really seem like it has staying power, though i'm sure it has specific niches in the business sector.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Intel hypes SSD RAID for their own SSDs on X79 and the mainstream platforms, actually. But yeah, I agree, but keep in mind it is truly something about programming software for "accessibility" so that more users are "benefitted" that has the true speed advantages passed over. Either the niche-market complains, or the much larger general public does, and either way, you know what way Intel is gonna go with... the business way.
> 
> X99 was really meant to be C606, with SAS and everything else, but Intel has had many issues with drive controllers in the past (P67 V1 recall, anyone?), and it's the early adopters that always miss out.


X99 has support for SAS? I haven't been paying attention due to no current intentions of upgrading.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Intel hypes SSD RAID for their own SSDs on X79 and the mainstream platforms, actually. But yeah, I agree, but keep in mind it is truly something about programming software for "accessibility" so that more users are "benefitted" that has the true speed advantages passed over. Either the niche-market complains, or the much larger general public does, and either way, you know what way Intel is gonna go with... the business way.
> 
> X99 was really meant to be C606, with SAS and everything else, but Intel has had many issues with drive controllers in the past (P67 V1 recall, anyone?), and it's the early adopters that always miss out.


That's half the reason I didn't return my ram and go for an X99 build I didn't want to be stuck with the first run test batches and the other was that X99 seemed more geared towards professional render-ers and the like. Especially consider most of the programs I run don't work on that many cores anyway (I think the only one that does is premier, maybe after effects and max 2015 but I doubt it) so it seemed pointless. Overall I'm very satisfied with my x79 rig and if I had to do it over again I wouldn't change a thing.

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> once you go SSD you will never want to use a platter again... unless you're at work and 90% of your data is coming over the CAT, not your disks.
> 
> I mean, time spent waiting adds up, and it adds up to time wasted. Instant loading screens in games, & exponential increases in moving local data around, totally worth it.
> 
> No TRIM on X79 = don't stuff your SSDs full & you're pretty well good to go.
> 
> Also, when you look at pricing, 2 years ago $1+ a GB, now $.35 a GB for the mainstream products (intel doesn't count in this) also how modern SSDs have the tendency to actually last longer than your typical Caviar Blue,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly Intel is getting ready to release yet another large leap in SSD technology, hopefully that drives the current mainstream products even further down. SATA3 is mostly tapped out, so the only way to go is RAID, PCI-e(ewww) or M.2 (yummm) at least for now. I would assume SATA4 is around the corner. PCI-E storage doesn't really seem like it has staying power, though i'm sure it has specific niches in the business sector.
> X99 has support for SAS? I haven't been paying attention due to no current intentions of upgrading.


I have used SSDs actually. I've built rigs for people who wanted them and I have a tablet and a laptop that came with them installed. The thing is I've never really cared about my seconds that much. I've tested the larger programs I use like 3DSM and the SSDs don't really make _that_ much of an impact.

I'd be interested to see intels new SSD tech just for curiousity's sake but at the same time I doubt it would make me jump on board.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> X99 has support for SAS? I haven't been paying attention due to no current intentions of upgrading.


ROFL. I meant X79. C606 is X79 "professional" chipset, some board makers like ECS and Gigabyte had boards that used that "chipset". In fact, Gigabyte revised all their X79 boards mid-way through.

That said, I do have ASRock X99 WS board, and X99 Extreme11, pretty sure one of those two, if not both, have SAS< but I haven't got around to reviewing them yet since my class workload has been so high. Soon though, only a few weeks left in this semester.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> That's half the reason I didn't return my ram and go for an X99 build I didn't want to be stuck with the first run test batches and the other was that X99 seemed more geared towards professional render-ers and the like. Especially consider most of the programs I run don't work on that many cores anyway (I think the only one that does is premier, maybe after effects and max 2015 but I doubt it) so it seemed pointless. Overall I'm very satisfied with my x79 rig and if I had to do it over again I wouldn't change a thing.
> 
> EDIT:
> I have used SSDs actually. I've built rigs for people who wanted them and I have a tablet and a laptop that came with them installed. The thing is I've never really cared about my seconds that much. I've tested the larger programs I use like 3DSM and the SSDs don't really make _that_ much of an impact.
> 
> I'd be interested to see intels new SSD tech just for curiousity's sake but at the same time I doubt it would make me jump on board.


X99 is pretty good, IMHO, but since I paly in Photoshop and AutoCAD fairly often, as well as editing video, I do see the benefits.

My 2666 C10's took a dump recently. Got my replacements from Corsair today, direct from Taiwan, but 2666 C10 no longer available, so I got some poopy 2800 MHz C12 sticks (single-sided MFR). Pics and some clocking, soon.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> That's half the reason I didn't return my ram and go for an X99 build I didn't want to be stuck with the first run test batches and the other was that X99 seemed more geared towards professional render-ers and the like. Especially consider most of the programs I run don't work on that many cores anyway (I think the only one that does is premier, maybe after effects and max 2015 but I doubt it) so it seemed pointless. Overall I'm very satisfied with my x79 rig and if I had to do it over again I wouldn't change a thing.
> 
> EDIT:
> I have used SSDs actually. I've built rigs for people who wanted them and I have a tablet and a laptop that came with them installed. The thing is I've never really cared about my seconds that much. I've tested the larger programs I use like 3DSM and the SSDs don't really make _that_ much of an impact.
> 
> I'd be interested to see intels new SSD tech just for curiousity's sake but at the same time I doubt it would make me jump on board.






I always thought stuff like 3DSMax was heavily dependent on GPU & CPU horsepower.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> ROFL. I meant X79. C606 is X79 "professional" chipset, some board makers like ECS and Gigabyte had boards that used that "chipset". In fact, Gigabyte revised all their X79 boards mid-way through.
> 
> That said, I do have ASRock X99 WS board, and X99 Extreme11, pretty sure one of those two, if not both, have SAS< but I haven't got around to reviewing them yet since my class workload has been so high. Soon though, only a few weeks left in this semester.
> X99 is pretty good, IMHO, but since I paly in Photoshop and AutoCAD fairly often, as well as editing video, I do see the benefits.






so professional you bypass chipset raid, and disk management in general & go straight for the raid cards!

I want to look into a Trim support raid card, but my wallet fears what i'll find. Better off putting that money towards turning my old Z77 ROG board into a reliable test environment for my next batch of classes.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

oh, I'm probably the only other edmontonian that has the 2666 CL10 Plats now.

RIP to your sticks cadaveca.


----------



## Puriel

Hi All just to relate to the Asus OC socket and the warranty issue this is the truth

Confirmed: Asus OC Socket Does Not Void Warranty

The Asus OC socket is slightly different from the reference LGA2011-3 socket in that it has more pins. Asus noticed that the Haswell-E CPUs had more contact points than the reference socket has pins, so the company reverse-engineered their purposes and created the OC socket. In theory, this should allow for better overclocking results. Note that Asus points out that the extra pins in the socket will only be activated when the user flips them on in the BIOS, and that under normal circumstances they are not active. At press time, the Asus OC socket is patent pending.

When we read the rumor that simply using a Haswell-E CPU in the Asus OC socket will void its warranty we had to find out for ourselves. Naturally, when you start overclocking, your warranty from Intel is automatically void, but certainly the same cannot be true for users who do not overclock. When we reached out to Intel for a comment, we got the following: "Our partners consistently deliver innovations in their respective product line-up. For questions on specific 3rd party products and their implementation, please contact them directly."

Of course, we had already contacted Asus about it. We were told that the rumor is false on all accounts and that the CPU's warranty will only be void if you violate Intel's warranty terms, which despite varying by region, will not be void when using the Asus OC socket as long as you do not activate it. For users who do overclock, the warranty would be void unless you've bought a protection plan from Intel, which would still cover any damages from the usual overclocking.

So folks, if you have an Asus X99 motherboard with the Asus OC socket, or you are planning to get one but do not intend to use the feature, you don't need to worry. The conclusion that we can draw from this is that the Asus OC socket does not affect the warranty of your CPU in any way. If you do not use the feature and do not overclock, you will keep your warranty per Intel's terms; if you do use the feature or overclock, your warranty will be void anyway, just as it is on any boards from competing OEMs.









Follow Niels Broekhuijsen @NBroekhuijsen. Follow us @tomshardware


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol didnt we know this... MONTHS ago?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> oh, I'm probably the only other edmontonian that has the 2666 CL10 Plats now.
> 
> RIP to your sticks cadaveca.


Yeah, you might be. Dammit. But hey, DDR4 is fun, too.


----------



## skupples

and this is why you spend the $25-$30 on Intel OC Warranty, though i'm sure people get away with RMAing OCd CPUs all the time.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My Wallet has shed these same tears, now to muster up the strength to cough up the money it costs to get a raid card that supports TRIM. So fail that Intel only ever put 2x intel ports on X79, SOOOOO FAAIIIIILLLLLLL.
> 
> Even more fail that they pushed the TRIM support driver, then revoked it only a few days later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two things alone have likely forced many people into upgrading to x99.


Did I miss something with no TRIM on X79? I am running 2x250GB 840's with TRIM enabled... What's with that?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Did I miss something with no TRIM on X79? I am running 2x250GB 840's with TRIM enabled... What's with that?


Can you verify that? RSTe never got trim, from what I understand. Well, it did, then didn't. RST has it! just not RSTe.

The other thing that I've read is that TRIM only works on X79 when in R0..

It's been over a year since I last looked into this, so meh...

Now you make me do googlefu for truth!


----------



## skupples

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367737/how-to-verify-trim-is-working-in-windows/0_50

here's this. directions for a tool that will test for trim, and test for functionality.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I always thought stuff like 3DSMax was heavily dependent on GPU & CPU horsepower.


I think you have to balance the speed of the cores against the number of cores or you don't really gain anything. For example the requirements for Max are just a 64 bit cpu, but Revit suggests the fastest cpu you can afford. From what I understand about rendering final products is that it is more gfx based depending on your processing choice, but I've only started working on scenes to be rendered opposed to the raw models for games or other's use that I'm accustomed to making.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Can you verify that? RSTe never got trim, from what I understand. Well, it did, then didn't. RST has it! just not RSTe.
> 
> The other thing that I've read is that TRIM only works on X79 when in R0..
> 
> It's been over a year since I last looked into this, so meh...
> 
> Now you make me do googlefu for truth!


I always just use the CMD for checking TRIM, but yeah, I am in RAID0 so that may be why... Will verify when I power on later...


----------



## cadaveca

Popped on the C12 2800's, not problem with 2800 C11 @ 1.65V, still gotta play for better bandwidth though, since it's MFR, and the C10's would do this and be shooting near 75K. Nice job on BIOs tuning though, ASUS, (0701):


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Popped on the C12 2800's, not problem with 2800 C11 @ 1.65V, still gotta play for better bandwidth though, since it's MFR, and the C10's would do this and be shooting near 75K. Nice job on BIOs tuning though, ASUS, (0701):


Wow, 2800 Mhz, that is impressive, I will try to get my Dominator Platinums steady at 2400 Mhz before trying 2666 Mhz. What are the chances that they will manage to do 2800 Mhz? The chip is able to handle 2666 Mhz I know for sure, not too sure about 2800 Mhz though.


----------



## cadaveca

Depends on what sticks you got. These are 2800 MHz 12-14-14-36 sticks, all I did was tune voltages and primary timings a bit. I had my 2666 C10's at this speed, and these timings, for a LONG time, with no problems, but performance was far better. Maybe I can get 3000+ out of these sticks... getting close to finals, though, so I'm not sure how much time I'll have to tweak, and I might just leave them here for now and push over my Christmas break.

I've had this CPU with over 3200 MHz with two sticks of AVEXIR 3100 MHz DIMMS already, so to me, this is rather bland. Performance is not good, at all, IMHO, but I know Corsair hasn't had the Samsung-based 2666 C10's for some time. Only one of my sticks died, but eventually I couldn't even boot with the bad stick in, so chose to RMA. I can pull similar bandwidth easily @ 2133 MHz, but latency is not as good, more around 52-53 ns. At least my rig looks like how I intended.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I always just use the CMD for checking TRIM, but yeah, I am in RAID0 so that may be why... Will verify when I power on later...


Still can't get a definitive answer, sounds like it _should_ be there now, but some people still have issues with it, and it's BIOS dependent. I've seen people asking for modded R4BE bios up to the 060x series, so i'm wondering if ASUS ever patched it in

where is @Raja when you actually need him.

Either way, the tool i linked gives a definitive answer of YES it's there, and YES its working.

Worst case scenario, is that it has to be added into the ASUS bios, not sure the steps, but the TOTALLY COOL AND TOTALLY DOWN TO EARTH mods on ASUS.ROG.FORUMS make it sound easy enough.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Depends on what sticks you got. These are 2800 MHz 12-14-14-36 sticks, all I did was tune voltages and primary timings a bit. I had my 2666 C10's at this speed, and these timings, for a LONG time, with no problems, but performance was far better. Maybe I can get 3000+ out of these sticks... getting close to finals, though, so I'm not sure how much time I'll have to tweak, and I might just leave them here for now and push over my Christmas break.
> 
> I've had this CPU with over 3200 MHz with two sticks of AVEXIR 3100 MHz DIMMS already, so to me, this is rather bland. Performance is not good, at all, IMHO, but I know Corsair hasn't had the Samsung-based 2666 C10's for some time. Only one of my sticks died, but eventually I couldn't even boot with the bad stick in, so chose to RMA. I can pull similar bandwidth easily @ 2133 MHz, but latency is not as good, more around 52-53 ns. At least my rig looks like how I intended.


where the christ did you get avexir 3100s from were they a descent price?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Depends on what sticks you got. These are 2800 MHz 12-14-14-36 sticks, all I did was tune voltages and primary timings a bit. I had my 2666 C10's at this speed, and these timings, for a LONG time, with no problems, but performance was far better. Maybe I can get 3000+ out of these sticks... getting close to finals, though, so I'm not sure how much time I'll have to tweak, and I might just leave them here for now and push over my Christmas break.
> 
> I've had this CPU with over 3200 MHz with two sticks of AVEXIR 3100 MHz DIMMS already, so to me, this is rather bland. Performance is not good, at all, IMHO, but I know Corsair hasn't had the Samsung-based 2666 C10's for some time. Only one of my sticks died, but eventually I couldn't even boot with the bad stick in, so chose to RMA. I can pull similar bandwidth easily @ 2133 MHz, but latency is not as good, more around 52-53 ns. At least my rig looks like how I intended.


Okay, I got the Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz C9 9-11-11-31 @ 1,65V. The chip can handle 2400/2666Mhz with 4,9/5 Ghz (Jpmboy's) 4930K.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> where the christ did you get avexir 3100s from were they a descent price?


Free is decent.







they were a review sample. Review here:

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Avexir/Core_Series_3100_MHz_C12/

I do the memory and board review for TPU for the last 4 years and a bit, just check review author under boards and memory.









(mods, if posting this link is not OK, I understand, please remove, I apologize)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, I got the Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz C9 9-11-11-31 @ 1,65V. The chip can handle 2400/2666Mhz with 4,9/5 Ghz (Jpmboy's) 4930K.


You might get 2666 C10 @ ~1.7V or so. 2666 C10's were the top bin (so, yours are not as good ,typically, but you can get lucky), but Corsair also has 2800 11-13-13-35 sticks, but they were Hynix-based, not Samsung like your kit and the 2666 C10s.

Samsung ICs can handle higher voltages under OC than Hynix, though, so for benchers, Samsung 2666 C10 memory is the kits to get, Corsair or other brand doesn't really matter, since many other brands have had some good sets out there too. This platform is definitely capable of pushing clocks like this 24/7 though.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Can you verify that? RSTe never got trim, from what I understand. Well, it did, then didn't. RST has it! just not RSTe.
> 
> The other thing that I've read is that TRIM only works on X79 when in R0..
> 
> It's been over a year since I last looked into this, so meh...
> 
> Now you make me do googlefu for truth!


TRIM is indeed functional on my rig...



That was actually one of my big concerns with jumping to RAID, I had to verify on my Z77 rig when I got my two 840's, and then when I decided to make the move to X79 it was a pain in the rear to find out factual information on TRIM, some said it didn't work, some said it did, some said certain boards worked, furthermore, some even made claims that it was CPU dependent (well, I recall one place where that was stated, which I just laughed at), so I just decided to take the plunge and give it a go, and was happily surprised (I hate surprises) when everything reported that TRIM was functional...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> TRIM is indeed functional on my rig...
> 
> 
> 
> That was actually one of my big concerns with jumping to RAID, I had to verify on my Z77 rig when I got my two 840's, and then when I decided to make the move to X79 it was a pain in the rear to find out factual information on TRIM, some said it didn't work, some said it did, some said certain boards worked, furthermore, some even made claims that it was CPU dependent (well, I recall one place where that was stated, which I just laughed at), so I just decided to take the plunge and give it a go, and was happily surprised (I hate surprises) when everything reported that TRIM was functional...


welp, good to hear that A.) Intel got off of their asses & made it work, it was quite the stink a year ago B.) ASUS got off their asses so that people could stop cutting into their roms.

I'll be tossing another 1TB EVO into my rig, this weekend I think. I just need to extract my Dragon Age Inquisition first, no way in hell i'm losing 65+ hours of play to the hands of EA Cloud save's shortcomings. 65 hours, and barely half way through the game, and not even close to a completionist run = GG Bioware.


----------



## LiquidHaus

man, I gotta lot of reading to catch up on.

just had my RIVBE delivered today, though i'm not home to play with it yet. work trips suck.

here will be the specs on the beast.

asus RIVBE
4930k
16gb samsung green
x4 7970s
titanium hd sound
x2 raid 0 hyperx
x2 raid 0 hyperx (2 raid arrays possible with x79?)
evga 1600w

everything watercooled as well.
will be updating my old build log yet again, might make a new one. not sure.

hopefully I can get the 4930k to 4.6ghz. it's a super new batch number that I havent found any information on. so we'll see.

feels good to be part of the club


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> man, I gotta lot of reading to catch up on.
> 
> just had my RIVBE delivered today, though i'm not home to play with it yet. work trips suck.
> 
> here will be the specs on the beast.
> 
> asus RIVBE
> 4930k
> 16gb samsung green
> x4 7970s
> titanium hd sound
> x2 raid 0 hyperx
> x2 raid 0 hyperx (2 raid arrays possible with x79?)
> evga 1600w
> 
> everything watercooled as well.
> will be updating my old build log yet again, might make a new one. not sure.
> 
> hopefully I can get the 4930k to 4.6ghz. it's a super new batch number that I havent found any information on. so we'll see.
> 
> feels good to be part of the club


You should get some COB LED panels instead of those RGB strips... That way there is none of that 'RGB' shadow mess... Personally, I have had too many problems with the RGB strips to deal with them anymore. I would much rather just find a single color COB panel, even if I need to install several in order to change colors (But I LOVE white, so I am good with that).


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> You should get some COB LED panels instead of those RGB strips... That way there is none of that 'RGB' shadow mess... Personally, I have had too many problems with the RGB strips to deal with them anymore. I would much rather just find a single color COB panel, even if I need to install several in order to change colors (But I LOVE white, so I am good with that).


that sig rig picture I have as the default is actually a bit old lol.

I did in fact ditch that RGB strip, which was the NZXT Hue.

switched over to white led strips.

here's an updated pic of my now-old rig:


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> that sig rig picture I have as the default is actually a bit old lol.
> 
> I did in fact ditch that RGB strip, which was the NZXT Hue.
> 
> switched over to white led strips.
> 
> here's an updated pic of my now-old rig:


Ahhhh, yes. Much better.


----------



## Mega Man

ill take my 5050 rgbs ! i have over 100ft from china


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ill take my 5050 rgbs ! i have over 100ft from china


I have tried both 5050's from US and China, and all three sets experience some problem, the first one had LED's fail, the second one had random colors fail on the LED's, and the third one started fading, so white started to turn yellow, and give I primarily use white it was an issue. The terrible thing, is that this all happened in less than a year, and my system was only on for at most an average of 4-6 hours a day maybe three or four days a week. I have also had three controllers fail, the first one just stopped, no white smoke or anything, the second one slowly failed, and the third one (my favorite! An M3-3A/M7 remote) also stopped working. Their prices ranged from free with LED's, the second one was $15, and the M3-3A was $35!!! After investing that much in a lighting solution, I just gave up on the strips, and opted for the COB's, a single, evenly lit color, not colored shadows, and it looks beautiful!

The only bad part (if you see it that way), is relative to LED strips, they are expensive, although, $8 is enough to illuminate my whole computer, and I don't need to run five feet of strip to do it. So it is really a wash anyway, plus no controller needed.

That being said, to each his own.


----------



## iPEN

Hi guys,

My PC started some days ago with failures in all the USB 3 ports. Some devices were not recogniced, and I needed to restart in order to make them work properly. Since yesterday, none of the USB 3.0 ports of my motherboard work. They seem to be almost dead.

I have tried to reinstall the Asmedia USB 3 driver and I get this error:



Do you think that it is a HW failure? The Asmedia controller is dead?

Thanks in advance


----------



## filoippo

and my oc test: http://valid.canardpc.com/k9bekc
cpu: i7 4930K overclocked to 4.7GHz @1.424V (new record







)
ram: Corsair dominator platinum 2133MHz cas9 oc to 2400MHz cas9


----------



## filoippo

someone can add me to the owner's list?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPEN*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> My PC started some days ago with failures in all the USB 3 ports. Some devices were not recogniced, and I needed to restart in order to make them work properly. Since yesterday, none of the USB 3.0 ports of my motherboard work. They seem to be almost dead.
> 
> I have tried to reinstall the Asmedia USB 3 driver and I get this error:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think that it is a HW failure? The Asmedia controller is dead?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Reinstall of windows might help here.

If you have another spare drive to quickly install a basic windows just to test, I would advise to go a head and try it. My USB ports were acting up as in sometimes it would recognize my usb thumb drive, and sometimes not. I had to pull it out and put it back in a couple of times to get it seen. This was with a few different thumb drives I have. I redid windows because it was time for a clean install, and the ports work all the time now.

No issues.

Nice clock filoippo!


----------



## iPEN

I'm reinstalling right now. I have all the important stuff in my NAS device, so it is more or less quick to try it.


----------



## filoippo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Nice clock filoippo!


thanks


----------



## iPEN

I've just tried with a blank windows installation and the Asmedia controller is dead... so this mobo goes to RMA and I think that the time for an upgrade has come.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> man, I gotta lot of reading to catch up on.
> 
> just had my RIVBE delivered today, though i'm not home to play with it yet. work trips suck.
> 
> here will be the specs on the beast.
> 
> asus RIVBE
> 4930k
> 16gb samsung green
> x4 7970s
> titanium hd sound
> x2 raid 0 hyperx
> x2 raid 0 hyperx (2 raid arrays possible with x79?)
> evga 1600w
> 
> everything watercooled as well.
> will be updating my old build log yet again, might make a new one. not sure.
> 
> hopefully I can get the 4930k to 4.6ghz. it's a super new batch number that I havent found any information on. so we'll see.
> 
> feels good to be part of the club


Your clocks seems realistic to me ,but don't be too butt-hurt if you get stuck to 4.5 or so. I'm pushing 4.7 on a daily basis on my 4960X, but often I run stock just for the fun of it and between ram tweaking sessions when I want to game, and all my games play perfectly fine with CPU at stock, so there's questionable need for OC unless pushing renders or similar these days. IF a game runs slow, you're better off investing into better VGAs than OC'ing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPEN*
> 
> I've just tried with a blank windows installation and the Asmedia controller is dead... so this mobo goes to RMA and I think that the time for an upgrade has come.


Might be a windows thing, if running 8.1, and you fully updated windows. I've been having issues with my front USB ports and specific drives, but my Rocksmith tone cable ALWAYS works. If you hear windows "ding" when connecting the drive, but can't use the drive or whatever you plug into the ports, I'd be more willing to blame Microsoft rather than ASUS.

Yet, I've having a tonne of fun with my X99 DELUXE, so don't overlook that board if you want a decent board for some OC fun on X99, although the RVE might be more to your liking, the X99 DELUXE is no slouch, either.


----------



## skupples

I had lots of cutting in and out issues with USB on this board for a long time. I'm not positive, but I think unstable clocks might be the cause, as further memory and CPU tuning resulted in it no longer happening

on 8.1.2 w/ dual boot into 8.2 10 for funsies.... I'm actually using 10 @ work since MS released RSAT almost instantly.


----------



## Trackles

First test and Bios update.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Your clocks seems realistic to me ,but don't be too butt-hurt if you get stuck to 4.5 or so. I'm pushing 4.7 on a daily basis on my 4960X, but often I run stock just for the fun of it and between ram tweaking sessions when I want to game, and all my games play perfectly fine with CPU at stock, so there's questionable need for OC unless pushing renders or similar these days. IF a game runs slow, you're better off investing into better VGAs than OC'ing.


Have you tested four cards on the 4960X stock vs 4,7 Ghz?

I got around something weird when I upgraded to the 4930K, before 4x R9 290X was doing pretty good on anything but max settings in games (doing quadfire and 4,6 Ghz with high settings on BF4 @ 4K lagged like crazy). Trifire worked great with 4,6 Ghz and I had no stutter/hanging or lagging at all, once doing quadfire I had problems (all the time). Weird thing was that the in-game FPS was like 130 and it felt like 25-30 ... weird. This was when I had the 3930K @ 4,6 Ghz.
Bought the 4930K, did some gaming at everything up to 4,6 Ghz and still the same problem as with the 3930K, then I tried 4,7 Ghz and I had 150 fps in-game and the smoothest gameplay every, seems like I had been bottlenecking the CPU all that time. Everything above 4,7 Ghz works perfectly with this setup (4x r9 290x), I got answers like it was the power cables (had 6 and 6+2 cables from the power supply) now I have 16x 8-pin to 6+2. Did the change and nothing different happened, there was also a suggestion to run two cards off of each PSU, but that did not change anything either. The only problem I could find was the overclock from 4,6 Ghz to 4,7 Ghz (anything below 4,7 Ghz would not be any good). I think I still have some problems with Metro Last Light, but it is smoother now then it was in the start so something has happened. Have been running cards at stock because I had big problems with overclocked cards while gaming, or correction, thing was unplayable while overclocked.

Do you have any experience with this being a problem with quadfire/quadsli? I guess you have tested both with maybe the 4930K and the 4960X.









Mantle/D3 (whatever it is called) in BF4 had nothing to do with it.


----------



## cadaveca

Yeah, multiple GPUs requires more CACHE bandwidth, and since CPU cache speed(l3) is tied to clock speed, you have to increase the CPU clock in order to support the higher bandwidth requirements of pushing data to each GPU simultaneously. Haswell overcomes this with an adjustable cache speed, yet at the same time, MORE cache can also help alleviate this, too. My main gaming rig has triple 780 TI's, and I have previously ran with 3-4 cards pretty much since the 3870x2 cards came out, so unfortunately, am quite familiar with this problem. There is also the consideration of microstutter to consider, although this topic has become more convoluted than ever before in the past couple of years.


----------



## LiquidHaus

very interesting you guys.

well I guess time will tell for me, I'll only be able to run one 7970 today as today will be air cooling tests to make sure everything works correctly. the 4th 7970 I got was from ebay and since it still has the air cooler on it, i'll be making sure that card is still good, the motherboard is not DOA, and that the 4930k is good (which im sure it is)

next weekend is when everything will be put under water, in which I'll be able to discover these aforementioned things myself.

so I guess i'm hoping for 4.7ghz now lol


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, multiple GPUs requires more CACHE bandwidth, and since CPU cache speed(l3) is tied to clock speed, you have to increase the CPU clock in order to support the higher bandwidth requirements of pushing data to each GPU simultaneously. Haswell overcomes this with an adjustable cache speed, yet at the same time, MORE cache can also help alleviate this, too. My main gaming rig has triple 780 TI's, and I have previously ran with 3-4 cards pretty much since the 3870x2 cards came out, so unfortunately, am quite familiar with this problem. There is also the consideration of microstutter to consider, although this topic has become more convoluted than ever before in the past couple of years.


Okay, then it is normal.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, then it is normal.


Yeha, perfectly normal, to me. I also and pretty confident that this is why both AMD and NVidia offer multi-gpu-on-a-stick, since actual simultaneous PCIe/Cache bandwidth requirements are lowered thanks to the muxing of data by the PLX chips used, and so much so that I'd recommend using dual 7990's or GTX690's over four separate discrete cards, even though "benchmark" numbers may show discrete cards perform "better". There's a difference in OC'ing from just generating maximum numbers, and delivering the most optimized user experience.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> very interesting you guys.
> 
> well I guess time will tell for me, I'll only be able to run one 7970 today as today will be air cooling tests to make sure everything works correctly. the 4th 7970 I got was from ebay and since it still has the air cooler on it, i'll be making sure that card is still good, the motherboard is not DOA, and that the 4930k is good (which im sure it is)
> 
> next weekend is when everything will be put under water, in which I'll be able to discover these aforementioned things myself.
> 
> so I guess i'm hoping for 4.7ghz now lol


I do not know if 4,7 Ghz is the sweetspot for every GPU-combination, but that was the target I should look for with 4x R9 290X's. Any reason why you are running four cards and not just three? The performance difference is irrecognizable between three and four GPU's unless benching or doing 4K Eyefinity or something along those lines. On the plus side of going with three GPU's is less power draw, but who cares about that really?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeha, perfectly normal, to me. I also and pretty confident that this is why both AMD and NVidia offer multi-gpu-on-a-stick, since actual simultaneous PCIe/Cache bandwidth requirements are lowered thanks to the muxing of data by the PLX chips used, and so much so that I'd recommend using dual 7990's or GTX690's over four separate discrete cards, even though "benchmark" numbers may show discrete cards perform "better". There's a difference in OC'ing from just generating maximum numbers, and delivering the most optimized user experience.


I actually thought of going with two R9 295X2 when they was being released, but then I saw the price tag and the difference is quite big on 2x R9 295X2's and 4x R9 290X's. Went with the R9 290Xs when they were on sale for 25% and 35% off of full price, the R9 295X2 is the double of that price at this time (when the prices has split in half).
I believe you on the cache on dual GPU cards vs single GPU cards, the drawback is only the overclock on the CPU though. My 4930K does 4,7 Ghz at only 1,3 volts so I am happy with it, working on getting my board up and running as we speak, had an EK-PSC fitting leaking on me, will have to change it out I guess ....

A picture of the setup (the GPU-configuration is changed, now it is semi-parallel and not full parallel).


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I actually thought of going with two R9 295X2 when they was being released, but then I saw the price tag and the difference is quite big on 2x R9 295X2's and 4x R9 290X's. Went with the R9 290Xs when they were on sale for 25% and 35% off of full price, the R9 295X2 is the double of that price at this time (when the prices has split in half).
> I believe you on the cache on dual GPU cards vs single GPU cards, the drawback is only the overclock on the CPU though. My 4930K does 4,7 Ghz at only 1,3 volts so I am happy with it, working on getting my board up and running as we speak, had an EK-PSC fitting leaking on me, will have to change it out I guess ....
> 
> A picture of the setup (the GPU-configuration is changed, now it is semi-parallel and not full parallel).


That's an awesome looking setup. 4xGPUs always look nice.









I just took apart my entire loop...back to AIOs for some time (or some years).


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I believe you on the cache on dual GPU cards vs single GPU cards, the drawback is only the overclock on the CPU though. My 4930K does 4,7 Ghz at only 1,3 volts so I am happy with it, working on getting my board up and running as we speak, had an EK-PSC fitting leaking on me, will have to change it out I guess ....


That's a pretty sick rig.

And I could be wrong...that's just my semi-educated opinion of what's going on. I do motherboard reviews, have done some CPU and memory reviews too, so I have had my hands on way more motherboards with different features and slot configurations than most users, and I have a tonne of hardware at my disposal to play with, since that's what I need to do the review job... and through that, I have come to the conclusion that CPU OC isn't really needed, but cache speed is super-important. At the same time, I'm by no means a silicon engineer, and I'm going to school to get into HVAC-R engineering, which has NOTHING to really do with PCs... and maybe if I'm lucky it will all lead to a job within the industry, developing cooling for server rooms and such. So I know a bit about electrical stuff, and cooling and about optimizing things for the best results...But hardware design... is way over my head.


----------



## skupples

sigh, I really need to resolve this hitching. I thought it was only present when in 3D, but it's actually present when even browsing 2D, I just noticed it while typing up an email for work. Screens froze up, & all the letters that I continued to type spilled out super quick.

this should be fun


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> That's an awesome looking setup. 4xGPUs always look nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just took apart my entire loop...back to AIOs for some time (or some years).


Yeah, looks okay. Been prettier if you ask me, but it is all done pretty quick (beside the GPU-links), will do something else after Christmas I guess. I could never go away from custom water cooling to something that performs worse.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That's a pretty sick rig.
> 
> And I could be wrong...that's just my semi-educated opinion of what's going on. I do motherboard reviews, have done some CPU and memory reviews too, so I have had my hands on way more motherboards with different features and slot configurations than most users, and I have a tonne of hardware at my disposal to play with, since that's what I need to do the review job... and through that, I have come to the conclusion that CPU OC isn't really needed, but cache speed is super-important. At the same time, I'm by no means a silicon engineer, and I'm going to school to get into HVAC-R engineering, which has NOTHING to really do with PCs... and maybe if I'm lucky it will all lead to a job within the industry, developing cooling for server rooms and such. So I know a bit about electrical stuff, and cooling and about optimizing things for the best results...But hardware design... is way over my head.


Yes, it has gotten better.









I do not really have too much experience with multiple GPU's, first time I am using four GPU's. I wish the "cache bottlenecking" would be taken into more reviews and things like that, because it is kind of the first time I am hearing about it and I have read quite a few reviews of the R9 290X's. Everyone using four of those cards usually have 3970X/4960X and at least 4,7 Ghz overclock so they might not know about it, but it is just a little weird that I never have seen that mentioned anywhere before.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I do not really have too much experience with multiple GPU's, first time I am using four GPU's. I wish the "cache bottlenecking" would be taken into more reviews and things like that, because it is kind of the first time I am hearing about it and I have read quite a few reviews of the R9 290X's. Everyone using four of those cards usually have 3970X/4960X and at least 4,7 Ghz overclock so they might not know about it, but it is just a little weird that I never have seen that mentioned anywhere before.


To not hearing things..well.. over the years I have been into PCs I've complained about stuff that others acknowledge long after many times over. I complained about microstutter for years before it was taken seriously, but when it comes to the importance of cache speed, it's something I have said many times over. When all the hype was around for AMD CPUs, early benchmarks showing cache performance had me see the truth for what it was long before anything was public.

Cache is what ties the CPU cores to the rest of the system, and with modern Intel chips, it's tied to the Ringbus that shuttles data all over, and you'll find often that many OC'ers, or whoever, suggest that you try to keep cache speeds high on Haswell-based CPUs that offer the option to set it lower than the CPU ratio, but prior to Haswell, Cache speed has been directly tied into CPU speed for an eternity, so that in and of itself is a new subject that needs to be investigated, for sure. There was much "hype" about DDR4 being slow... but no mention that cache speeds have been reduced with Haswell-E... and you'll see in my first DDR4 review, of a G.Skill kit, that I mention that most other reviews out at the time made no mention about increased cache speeds...yet I was posting benchmarks that matched other reviews, with no OC on the memory, but huge cache boosts that they didn't have. So I can safely say that I have slowly been trying to bring it to attention, but other than that...

As I have said before, my approach to OC isn't a common one. But that doesn't mean I'm right... For all I know, I'm COMPLETELY wrong.


----------



## cadaveca

Pushing these dimms higher:



Bandwidth dropped though, so I gotta work at it and see what I can do.


----------



## saint964

Im i total noob about cache, but can you tel me in a normal language what and were and what to do, to get the best results?
Thnx in advance.
marco


----------



## reev3r

Well, good news everyone! Except for the curmudgeon hiding near the trash can...

I reveived my shiny new GTX 670 G1 from Gigabyte... It's magnificent. I have a friend a deal on my 2x670 FTW's with full cover blocks, several 120mm rads, fittings, tubing and installation of his new computer for $425, and the 970 was $370...

Anyhow, it is supposed to have an EK block by January, so I'll be getting a second card and two blocks then... Excited!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> To not hearing things..well.. over the years I have been into PCs I've complained about stuff that others acknowledge long after many times over. I complained about microstutter for years before it was taken seriously, but when it comes to the importance of cache speed, it's something I have said many times over. When all the hype was around for AMD CPUs, early benchmarks showing cache performance had me see the truth for what it was long before anything was public.
> 
> Cache is what ties the CPU cores to the rest of the system, and with modern Intel chips, it's tied to the Ringbus that shuttles data all over, and you'll find often that many OC'ers, or whoever, suggest that you try to keep cache speeds high on Haswell-based CPUs that offer the option to set it lower than the CPU ratio, but prior to Haswell, Cache speed has been directly tied into CPU speed for an eternity, so that in and of itself is a new subject that needs to be investigated, for sure. There was much "hype" about DDR4 being slow... but no mention that cache speeds have been reduced with Haswell-E... and you'll see in my first DDR4 review, of a G.Skill kit, that I mention that most other reviews out at the time made no mention about increased cache speeds...yet I was posting benchmarks that matched other reviews, with no OC on the memory, but huge cache boosts that they didn't have. So I can safely say that I have slowly been trying to bring it to attention, but other than that...
> 
> As I have said before, my approach to OC isn't a common one. But that doesn't mean I'm right... For all I know, I'm COMPLETELY wrong.


I understand. Thank you!









Now my system is up and running, went into BIOS and changed the DDR3 from 1866 Mhz to 2400 Mhz (default on this kit) and kicked the timings to "default" 9-11-11-31 and 1,65 v on DRAM A,B,C and D. Fired right up without any trouble, still running 4,7 Ghz @ 1,3 volts. I have been out of the game a while, how to make sure the RAM is stable? I guess Memtest is in line, although it has been ran on a RIVE before so I do not know the reason why it should be bad?









This system is amazing, three months and fires up the first time I push the power button. 14C ambient, CPU 20C, GPUs 22C, I guess the room temperature will rise a little after a few hours of gaming though.


----------



## inlandchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> To not hearing things..well.. over the years I have been into PCs I've complained about stuff that others acknowledge long after many times over. I complained about microstutter for years before it was taken seriously, but when it comes to the importance of cache speed, it's something I have said many times over. When all the hype was around for AMD CPUs, early benchmarks showing cache performance had me see the truth for what it was long before anything was public.
> 
> Cache is what ties the CPU cores to the rest of the system, and with modern Intel chips, it's tied to the Ringbus that shuttles data all over, and you'll find often that many OC'ers, or whoever, suggest that you try to keep cache speeds high on Haswell-based CPUs that offer the option to set it lower than the CPU ratio, but prior to Haswell, Cache speed has been directly tied into CPU speed for an eternity, so that in and of itself is a new subject that needs to be investigated, for sure. There was much "hype" about DDR4 being slow... but no mention that cache speeds have been reduced with Haswell-E... and you'll see in my first DDR4 review, of a G.Skill kit, that I mention that most other reviews out at the time made no mention about increased cache speeds...yet I was posting benchmarks that matched other reviews, with no OC on the memory, but huge cache boosts that they didn't have. So I can safely say that I have slowly been trying to bring it to attention, but other than that...
> 
> As I have said before, my approach to OC isn't a common one. But that doesn't mean I'm right... For all I know, I'm COMPLETELY wrong.


I like your article in Techpowerup but I was looking for some numbers to help me out. My R4BE is a little sensitive with my G.Skill (32GB-2133) memory so right now, its at stock/auto freq and my mobo is a stock freq to keep things cooler. My Aida64 below is all non-OC'd. Not very good numbers so can you help with Cache? Where is it in the Bios (801) and what values would you suggest.

My goal is to get the speed (overall performance) as fast as I can with very little OC on the cpu. It seems 4.3-4.4 are safe speeds for the cpu.

any ideas?


----------



## cadaveca

Cache speed on RIVBE is tied into CPU speed. So when you increase memory speed, you'll see an increase, and when you increase CPU speed, you'll also see an increase.

However, when timings are proper for the memory, but bandwidth is low, usually hate problem is tied into VCCSA (IMC)voltage. Your stock AIDA bench looks fine to me, around 37 for 1600, and up and up, etch.

Also, the memory you have and the density of it will affect numbers a bit too in AIDA, as in higher density = lower bandwidth(slightly), since the data has a longer path to travel through.


----------



## Xisa

Salutations all! Happy to be part of this club! And these forums, that being said was wondering if you guys could offer some help/advice. First thing is I'm currently running Asus's 7970's and got my hands on a Nivida GTX 970. Was super excited in swapping out the old for the new, except it wont post at all. I uninstalled all the drivers from the 7970, I pop those back in the case boots up just fine. But the 970 in and nothing, doesn't matter what display-port i use on the card, hdmi, or dvi-d, black screen. I attempted to go to Asus's website and download the bios updates they have, went to use the EZ flash utility only for it to inform me that the bios i choose from the http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/HelpDesk_Download/ section for win 7 64bit are not UEFI Bios. So at this point I'm at a loss.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xisa*
> 
> Salutations all! Happy to be part of this club! And these forums, that being said was wondering if you guys could offer some help/advice. First thing is I'm currently running Asus's 7970's and got my hands on a Nivida GTX 970. Was super excited in swapping out the old for the new, except it wont post at all. I uninstalled all the drivers from the 7970, I pop those back in the case boots up just fine. But the 970 in and nothing, doesn't matter what display-port i use on the card, hdmi, or dvi-d, black screen. I attempted to go to Asus's website and download the bios updates they have, went to use the EZ flash utility only for it to inform me that the bios i choose from the http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/HelpDesk_Download/ section for win 7 64bit are not UEFI Bios. So at this point I'm at a loss.






this will be pretty basic, but did you happen to transfer the storage over from an older non x79 mobo?

It's sounds like a monumental task, but your only viable option is likely to format & reinstall the operating system.

really though, moving from AMD to NV shouldn't cause these issues.

I would stick the AMD GPU back in & run GURU3D Display Driver uninstaller, before reformatting. Make sure you check the option that prevents windows from reinstalling basic GPU drivers. After that, stick the 970 in. (this option is automatic on the newest GURU3D DDU)


----------



## Xisa

I reinstalled the OS when I yanked out the 990fx Sabertooth and gave it with my old 8150 to my brothers. Been using a 4930k ever since. I'll give the guru3D a shot when I get home from work. In regards to not being able to update the bios advice on that? I'm well past the RMA point on the board.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xisa*
> 
> I reinstalled the OS when I yanked out the 990fx Sabertooth and gave it with my old 8150 to my brothers. Been using a 4930k ever since. I'll give the guru3D a shot when I get home from work. In regards to not being able to update the bios advice on that? I'm well past the RMA point on the board.


You should be able to download the bios to a thumb drive, name it "R4BE" then hold down the ROG connect button to force bios update.

I think they call it flashback, or something like that. I had to do that when Cryptowall 2.0 hit me on day 0.

Tek Syndicate has the best video on it that I've found.

going from a 990FX to X79 is a major change, it's possible that you just need to *completely* start over with a FULL & slow format.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Xisa*
> 
> I reinstalled the OS when I yanked out the 990fx Sabertooth and gave it with my old 8150 to my brothers. Been using a 4930k ever since. I'll give the guru3D a shot when I get home from work. In regards to not being able to update the bios advice on that? I'm well past the RMA point on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to download the bios to a thumb drive, name it "R4BE" then hold down the ROG connect button to force bios update.
> 
> I think they call it flashback, or something like that. I had to do that when Cryptowall 2.0 hit me on day 0.
> 
> Tek Syndicate has the best video on it that I've found.
> 
> going from a 990FX to X79 is a major change, it's possible that you just need to *completely* start over with a FULL & slow format.
Click to expand...

USB bios flashback !

as to the 970, its trying to tell you NOOOOO!!!


----------



## Xisa

You make it sound like the 970 is a bad card. Also OS reinstalled nothing's changed.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xisa*
> 
> You make it sound like the 970 is a bad card. Also OS reinstalled nothing's changed.


970 is a fine card, I'm just not a big fan of the new nvidia release schedule.

Maybe the card is bad?

The info a sub bios flashback is slightly lacking, but like I said tek syndicated has a good video on it.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Whats the new nvidia release schedule?
I hear 970s are a very good upgrade because of some new feature/technology they have
Only reason i havent gotten any is cuz i am waiting for the 980ti cards


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Whats the new nvidia release schedule?
> I hear 970s are a very good upgrade because of some new feature/technology they have
> Only reason i havent gotten any is cuz i am waiting for the 980ti cards


The small chip big chip release format that they jumped into hook line and sinker with Kepler.

Yes, the core has unified memory, but it's still only marginally better than a 780+. And this is why NV CEO aimed it at people on 770 or smaller GPUs


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Ok i see. Yeah i can see ur point nvidias releases are annoying in that way. I mean how long did it take for the 780ti cards to drop?
Also their price points are getting kind of ridiculous. I mean it was one thing when the top tier single gpu cards were 500-600tops but 800 is seriously too much


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xisa*
> 
> You make it sound like the 970 is a bad card. Also OS reinstalled nothing's changed.


i never stated that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Xisa*
> 
> You make it sound like the 970 is a bad card. Also OS reinstalled nothing's changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 970 is a fine card, I'm just not a big fan of the new nvidia release schedule.
> 
> Maybe the card is bad?
> 
> The info a sub bios flashback is slightly lacking, but like I said tek syndicated has a good video on it.
Click to expand...

as for me i am just not a big fan of nvidia


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The small chip big chip release format that they jumped into hook line and sinker with Kepler.
> 
> Yes, the core has unified memory, but it's still only marginally better than a 780+. And this is why NV CEO aimed it at people on 770 or smaller GPUs


Yeah, but that is an unfair comparison (I feel) comparing a flagship card to a secondary cars that cost ~$200 less... I mean, in my experience with each release we see that each card performs one 'level' higher typically. That is, the 670 is on par with a 580, 770 is on par with a 680, 970 is roughly equivalent to a 780, and so on... Maybe I am reading into your thoughts differently, but that is my perception of things...

I traded 'down' from two 670 FTW's to a 970, or at least I thought I did, but every game I have played has not only been smoother (I am thinking SLI micro-stutter was the cause), but the single card also allows for higher settings... Unfortunately it isn't water cooled at this point, still waiting for ek to release the Gigabyte G1 block for it, but I paid $430 for my 670 at release, I paid $270 for the second one used over a year later, I will be able to get two 970's at full price for about the same price (and could have done so cheaper if I had gone for a unit with no block support), I really feel Nvidia has done a great thing with the 970, or maybe I am just falling for the hype.

I do try my absolute best to be as objective as possible with everything in my life, and I feel confident I am doing so with this.

That being said, I am a tad disappointed that the 780Ti was released a relatively short while (in terms of technology) before the 9 series, and I am sure a LOT of people feel they got the raw end of the deal by paying so much and then the 9 series is released shortly after at lower price/performance...

That in mind, to each their own, I personally could not be happier with my decision though... Not to mention my ridiculous overclock.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xisa*
> 
> You make it sound like the 970 is a bad card. Also OS reinstalled nothing's changed.


I am a little late to the party, and I may have missed this, but have you tried the card in a different rig? It seems kind of obvious (to me anyway) that the card is DOA...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I do not know if 4,7 Ghz is the sweetspot for every GPU-combination, but that was the target I should look for with 4x R9 290X's. Any reason why you are running four cards and not just three? The performance difference is irrecognizable between three and four GPU's unless benching or doing 4K Eyefinity or something along those lines. On the plus side of going with three GPU's is less power draw, but who cares about that really?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (snip) ...My 4930K does 4,7 Ghz at only 1,3 volts so I am happy with it, working on getting my board up and running as we speak, had an EK-PSC fitting leaking on me, will have to change it out I guess ....
> 
> A picture of the setup (the GPU-configuration is changed, now it is semi-parallel and not full parallel).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I decided to run 4 cards because, well why not? My 1600w can handle it.







the 7970s are a good deal right now on ebay so I acquired 4 of them, flashed em all to Ghz Ed bios, and watercooled them. Well except the 4th one. The waterblock is on the way as we speak, along with a bunch of new watercooling parts. So that's the one that's running in my aircooled rig right now.

I'm anxious to see how well mine will overclock. We'll see. I'll do everything I can to reach that 4.7ghz goal though.

That rig of yours is looking pretty good man.

But anyway, someone include me in the club!











Went from this...



To this...



Hahahaha my parts need to come in already.


----------



## skupples

of course of course.

Nvidia does this because they can. They know they can push out an entire line of cards that are just cut versions of the beast, they then come back a few months later & release said beasts, which end up being the TRUE flagship models.

Either way, I don't like it. It's annoying. I would prefer they just release the creme of the crop, instead of leading people on. Specially w/ 9xx, which is the smallest jump in performance over the previous series in quite some time. Yes, the energy efficency is great! Yes, the now unified memory is great! Yes, the next upgrade (since 20NM flagships won't be happening, straight to 16nm ftw) which is hopefully 3D memory will be EVEN better, as it will blow traditional GDDR memory out of the water, which will be great for those of us that want to game / work @ high res. Best part of that is that all signs point towards AMD beating NV to the market w/ stacked memory by as much as a year, by some estimates.

NV needs a good slapping from AMD.


----------



## Mega Man

so skups what does the freesync comment mean ?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so skups what does the freesync comment mean ?


that you gone done lost your mind if you think freesync is free.









I just don't see it to be a reasonable thought process. I highly doubt any monitor manufacturers are going to take the time to write new firmware for the 2 or 3 currently available monitors that could possibly support the technology, UNLESS they then charge you for the software. No profit & cost = unlikely to happen. AKA, just like G-sync, you will have to buy a new monitor to get the technology, thus not free.

It's a jab at the mindless that run around praising AMD for giving out another "free technology". Also, we have no idea what Freesync is, because AMD didn't use freesync @ the reveal. They used Adaptive Sync, & just called it freesync... Which i'm pretty sure is actually illegal in multiple countries.









It's as bad as, if not worse than Nvidia Wood Screws.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> of course of course.
> 
> Nvidia does this because they can. They know they can push out an entire line of cards that are just cut versions of the beast, they then come back a few months later & release said beasts, which end up being the TRUE flagship models.
> 
> Either way, I don't like it. It's annoying. I would prefer they just release the creme of the crop, instead of leading people on. Specially w/ 9xx, which is the smallest jump in performance over the previous series in quite some time. Yes, the energy efficency is great! Yes, the now unified memory is great! Yes, the next upgrade (since 20NM flagships won't be happening, straight to 16nm ftw) which is hopefully 3D memory will be EVEN better, as it will blow traditional GDDR memory out of the water, which will be great for those of us that want to game / work @ high res. Best part of that is that all signs point towards AMD beating NV to the market w/ stacked memory by as much as a year, by some estimates.
> 
> NV needs a good slapping from AMD.


I have always had a preference towards Nvidia for graphics cards over *ATI*, and although I have only had two ATI cards in my 15 years of building computers I don't really have any experience with AMD GPU's, so nothing against them, I am thinking it is the consistency that Nvidia has always offered, with few exceptions, I just remember having nightmare level issues with ATI drivers back in the day, constant crashes, uninstall/removal headaches, and just software trouble all around, not to mention the terribly unintuitive interface of yore, but again it has been probably ten years since my last personal experience with ten red. One thing I do like though, is their willingness to experiment with reference designs, mostly their output options, I remember having seen cards with five mini-DP outputs and it just included something like eight adapters for anything you might need, DVI, S-Video, D-Sub, DP, HDMI, etc. etc. I was so blown away by the awesomeness of that and so thoroughly disappointed by the weak-sauce foursome of 'standard' Nvidia junk outputs. Really glad they finally got enough oxygen to pull their head out and make a move toward display output glory...

I think that now, other than the slight performance advantage that Nvidia usually maintains over AMD, it is the same as comparing Chevy, Dodge and Ford, aside from creature comforts and aesthetics, they are really quite comparable and fanboyism is mostly ridiculous. I do understand having a preference for one reason or another, but to say that brand 'X' is superior for EVERY reason is just, well, unreasonable... lol

Not implying that by any stretch anybody is expressing such an attitude,just kind of sharing my thoughts, I do try to be as objective as possible, and in that regard I feel that Nvidia offers more features that I find advantageous and/or personally useful to me.

All of that in mind, I REALLY, REALLY hope that AMD can pull something hardcore soon, on both the GPU and CPU front, I have always been an AMD fanboy (CPU's anyway), and only buy Intel because of the obvious performance advantage at the mid to high end of the market, plus the general features they offer recently, but I refused to buy ANYTHING Intel after the debacle that was P4. Even so far as to not get a Core series once they took back the performance crown (After buying the Israel fab or whatever it was ca. ~2007), having opted for an Athlon 64 X2 6000+ AM2 and an Asus M2N32-SLI mobo because I really did not want to support Intel, since they were the 'Monopolistic' jackwad of the industry.

Unfortunately, given what I paid for my rig, and my friend going Intel just a month later and spending hundreds less but getting far superior performance, temperatures, and infinitely better overclocking than my CPU, I was really kicking myself in the teeth for not being objective in my purchasing decision. So now my personal preference always takes a distant backseat to any performance benchmarks and reviews of products when making a purchasing decision, to pretty nearly anything, but most of all CPU's, that being said, I do have my strong preference towards Asus motherboards for the last ten years (my first being the Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe), but other than Asus (my strongest non-objective preference), and Nvidia, I am open to everything, since all of the 'bad' brands have either gone under, or were simply absorbed by other brands.

With the exception of Soyo, I guarantee I would still be buying Soyo brand boards if they were still around. KT400 Dragon for the world!!!

Apologies for the irritatingly detailed and disturbingly long post to say, 'I have preferences on things sometimes...' lol

I do want to add though, that the price of the 970 is the greatest selling point of all in my opinion, I mean, 80-90% the performance for what, ~60-75% the price, it's just magic in my opinion! I can't believe I got this card for $370!!!


----------



## Mega Man

ima disagree about perf in nvidia for the last 2 gen AMD owned nvidia at higher res, and i bet the 390x will do it again over the 980xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so skups what does the freesync comment mean ?
> 
> 
> 
> that you gone done lost your mind if you think freesync is free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just don't see it to be a reasonable thought process. I highly doubt any monitor manufacturers are going to take the time to write new firmware for the 2 or 3 currently available monitors that could possibly support the technology, UNLESS they then charge you for the software. No profit & cost = unlikely to happen. AKA, just like G-sync, you will have to buy a new monitor to get the technology, thus not free.
> 
> It's a jab at the mindless that run around praising AMD for giving out another "free technology". Also, we have no idea what Freesync is, because AMD didn't use freesync @ the reveal. They used Adaptive Sync, & just called it freesync... Which i'm pretty sure is actually illegal in multiple countries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's as bad as, if not worse than Nvidia Wood Screws.
Click to expand...

i dont think it is free, but it is and has been part of a standard, not expecting anything from monitor companies but what would push the pc industry as a whole is if nvidia jumped on ( yea right ) just like with mantle !


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ima disagree about perf in nvidia for the last 2 gen AMD owned nvidia at higher res, and i bet the 390x will do it again over the 980xx
> i dont think it is free, but it is and has been part of a standard, not expecting anything from monitor companies but what would push the pc industry as a whole is if nvidia jumped on ( yea right ) just like with mantle !


here's the kicker. The whole "part of a standard" thing means nothing, because its not a mandatory part of the standard, then things just start getting really convoluted because it's adaptive sync that's the optional part of the standard. Freesync is nowhere in the VESA guide book.

Nvidia did jump on. They clearly stated that Adaptive Sync wasn't good enough, and flawed, during their research, which is why G-sync was born.

Either way. Freesync(branded Adaptivesync? no one knows!) will drive down g-sync prices. = good for everyone.

i'm curious why people always want NV to jump onto the AMD train... Why can't AMD jump on the NV train?


----------



## Xisa

Good news! I'm up and running on a single 970, looks like you were right the card was DOA. I flashed my bios to the latest, well semi latest opt'd not to use the beta ones they have listed. Finally managed to get all three displays running off of the card. For whatever reason either my displays or the card wasn't happy with everything being on display port. So i have one monitor on displayport to displayport, and the other two on displayport to mini display port. Other than that the only problem that I can not fix, or minor/major annoyance for me is my task bar will not stay where i want it to. For whatever reason after the installation of this card the task bar refuses to live anywhere except center screen top. Instead of left screen side. Only thing thats changed in my rig besides the bios update was the removal of the dual Asus HD 7970's to the GTX 970. Thanks again for all the help!

-Xisa


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ima disagree about perf in nvidia for the last 2 gen AMD owned nvidia at higher res, and i bet the 390x will do it again over the 980xx
> i dont think it is free, but it is and has been part of a standard, not expecting anything from monitor companies but what would push the pc industry as a whole is if nvidia jumped on ( yea right ) just like with mantle !
> 
> 
> 
> here's the kicker. The whole "part of a standard" thing means nothing, because its not a mandatory part of the standard, then things just start getting really convoluted because it's adaptive sync that's the optional part of the standard. Freesync is nowhere in the VESA guide book.
> 
> Nvidia did jump on. They clearly stated that Adaptive Sync wasn't good enough, and flawed, during their research, which is why G-sync was born.
> 
> Either way. Freesync(branded Adaptivesync? no one knows!) will drive down g-sync prices. = good for everyone.
> 
> i'm curious why people always want NV to jump onto the AMD train... Why can't AMD jump on the NV train?
Click to expand...

nvidia wont allow them or expect too much in fees, where as amd allows it and it is free ( as did most of amds stuffs IE x64 { thank god we dont have intel 64....}, on die mem controller .... many other things, if dx12 turns out good then we will have mantle to thank for that )


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I want to like amd. I really do. But i had such bad times with amd.
And since then i have always been able to put up the extra cash for intel and nvidia so i just went on with intel. Very pleased. Aside from the 4core apus they are not as nice as the 6cores, not at all


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nvidia wont allow them or expect too much in fees, where as amd allows it and it is free ( as did most of amds stuffs IE x64 { thank god we dont have intel 64....}, on die mem controller .... many other things, if dx12 turns out good then *we will have mantle to thank for that )*


I also don't buy that based on snips from Intel, AMD, and MS reps @ cons. All hinting @ AMD running off to work on their own thing while MS took their sweet ass time overhauling DX11. We can thank them for the name though, as it was all supposed to be DX11.X, but Mantle forced them to adopt a marketing strategy.

still can't figure out this supposed open source Mantle "SDK" tool they're planning to release.

we got from YEAH TOTALLY, EVERYONE CAN USE IT
to, oh, we lied, must have GCN!
back to "OH YEAH! EVERYONE WELCOME!"


----------



## Mega Man

i can see this starting to spin into a flame war . i will stop here

not saying it would be your fault just dont want to flame war with you as i like being able to talk to you ( i am a jerk ! )


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I've been using my new underwater build for about a month now, and I'm looking for a safe and reliable overclock without really pushing it too hard. I admit that I'm a bit too lazy to go back through countless pages to find screenshots of overclocking setups, so if anyone has any suggestions, or cares to post their overclocks for the R4BE I'm game.

Right now I have a single Titan card, 32gb of 2400mHz Corsair Platinum, the 4930k chip, and Rosewill 1300w PSU. Everything is running at the stock settings, and I have ZERO overclocking experience... But I'm willing to learn the curve. This evening while playing an HD movie, the picture stuttered, which shouldn't have happened, because my previous rig was the red RIVE with a slower chip and lesser GPU (GTX 590). I'm not sure why it did that with the new setup, but that's an unacceptable performance for a faster PC.

Thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

start upping multi, when it wont boot up vcore

when you feel comfy stress , BSOD and up vcore !


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i can see this starting to spin into a flame war . i will stop here
> 
> not saying it would be your fault just dont want to flame war with you as i like being able to talk to you ( i am a jerk ! )


all we know is what's been reported, and what's been reported is that AMD played microsoft.


----------



## LostParticle

Hi guys









Sorry for being a bit off topic but 20 hours ago I have placed a question here about the Maximus VII Hero.

Can anyone please share his opinion - help a bit?

Thank you!


----------



## reev3r

Alright, I am so, so confused right now...

I upgraded from a 4820K to the 4930K about two months ago...

Initially I was able to run 4.5GHz at 1.4v, which I was not comfortable with, so I throttled back to 4.4GHz at 1.275 (or somewhere around there).

However, I started experiencing stability issues, so I dropped down to 4.3GHz and things were fine.

Dissatisfied I kicked back up to 4.4GHz and upped the voltage to 1.325, everything ran fine for the following ~5-6wks.

So this past week I ordered a Gigabyte GTX 970 G1, removed my 670 FTW SLI, and sold it to a friend (along with the w-blocks) and am running the 970 on 'stock' air)

So I extended the data cable for the OC Panel so that I can monitor temps with it (primarily, as well as voltages, etc.).

I was scrolling through the settings last night while making a video of my mods for my cousin, and found that the VCore is no longer at the 1.325 I had previously set it at, but is now running at a incredibly low [email protected]!!!!

I have verified this with AISuite, Core Temp, and a multimeter, and they are all within that range...

I am COMPLETELY perplexed by this right now and I really do not understand... My initial overclock I started at [email protected]~v and went up to 4.4GHz but hit that exponential point to get to 4.5GHz and found it not worth it for a measly 100MHz, and as stated I dropped down to 'safer' levels. It has been running at exactly that for many weeks, and the only change I have made is the GPU, I have not changed any of the voltages since getting it where I wanted it ~5wks ago...

So what I guess I am getting at, is how in the world is this happening? I mean, I tried and tried to get a lower voltage at 4.4GHz and could not get stability below the 1.325v threshold, I mean, I *could* go down to 1.275v, but stability was inconsistent, it would pull 12 hours of prime, only to crash when launching Wordpad, after increasing the voltage everything was fine... So how could I have gone from 1.325v stable down to 1.090v stable, without making ANY changes... This is far beyond me...

An image of the OC Panel with VCore displayed:



Any thoughts?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Alright, I am so, so confused right now...
> 
> I upgraded from a 4820K to the 4930K about two months ago...
> 
> Initially I was able to run 4.5GHz at 1.4v, which I was not comfortable with, so I throttled back to 4.4GHz at 1.275 (or somewhere around there).
> 
> However, I started experiencing stability issues, so I dropped down to 4.3GHz and things were fine.
> 
> Dissatisfied I kicked back up to 4.4GHz and upped the voltage to 1.325, everything ran fine for the following ~5-6wks.
> 
> So this past week I ordered a Gigabyte GTX 970 G1, removed my 670 FTW SLI, and sold it to a friend (along with the w-blocks) and am running the 970 on 'stock' air)
> 
> So I extended the data cable for the OC Panel so that I can monitor temps with it (primarily, as well as voltages, etc.).
> 
> I was scrolling through the settings last night while making a video of my mods for my cousin, and found that the VCore is no longer at the 1.325 I had previously set it at, but is now running at a incredibly low [email protected]!!!!
> 
> I have verified this with AISuite, Core Temp, and a multimeter, and they are all within that range...
> 
> I am COMPLETELY perplexed by this right now and
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?


just one. How did you setup that minimonitor for that


----------



## skupples

@Reev3r is there a way to reset the OC panel? I sold mine off for like $75, so I never got to play with it. I mean, it's obviously a duffed reading, things like that aren't really possible.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> just one. How did you setup that minimonitor for that


Minimonitor? The TFT display that has the red and white text is what I am guessing you mean...

It is actually a rather complicated bit of project (for me at least), it is an Arduino with 10x DS18B20 temperature probes that I plan to install in my rig in various locations, Right now I can get the display working and the text set the way I like, and I can get the temperature probes to report their temps to the IDE (programming interface) serial monitor perfectly, but I lack the skill/knowledge to output the temps to the display just yet, still working on it, so yeah, the OC Panel and the Temperature Display are separate, unrelated devices, I had just set the display down a bit prior to taking the photograph.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @Reev3r is there a way to reset the OC panel? I sold mine off for like $75, so I never got to play with it. I mean, it's obviously a duffed reading, things like that aren't really possible.


So after a third restart and a graphics driver crash it is reporting the 'correct' voltage. The thing that gets me though, is how in the world was my multimeter reporting the same temperature range as the other three places I was monitoring, as mentioned, the OC Panel, Core Temp, and AISuite all reporting roughly the same thing. I mean, if it were just those three I could understand an error, but to use the voltage checkpoints and get the same thing, void of software interference, I have a difficult time understanding how that voltage could *possibly* have been incorrect... Unless my multimeter decided to have an error at the exact same time as the motherboard, and then promptly 'fixed' itself when the board did...

My confusion stems from my understanding that the voltage points on the board are a direct reading of the current, and that there is no software interpretation, isn't that the whole point of having them, for accurate readings? So even if the software was borked that should have still read *normal*, right? Or is my understanding of this as faulty as my voltages...


----------



## skupples

Yeah, getting them off of the exposed voltage points, that's a bit strange.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah, getting them off of the exposed voltage points, that's a bit strange.


Not necessarily... could be the CPU got stuck in low-voltage power state, or He accidentally pushed the button on the OC panel and it enabled the H1 profile.

Chances are the reading is accurate ,but the stability was not there (obviously, given the crash).

To me, this indicates several crashed and the beginnings of MEI corruption.

@reev3r...I'd be going to stock clocks and re-flashing your BIOS ASAP. I've seen this stuff before. It's usually caused by a crash, BIOS gets a little bit corrupted, then slowly gets worse and worse... and if not dealt with, makes the system unresponsive (at least on boards with single BIOS< which this board is not).

I'd also look at the possibility that you hit the BIOS button and it swapped to the other BIOS.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Not necessarily... could be the CPU got stuck in low-voltage power state, or He accidentally pushed the button on the OC panel and it enabled the H1 profile.
> 
> Chances are the reading is accurate ,but the stability was not there (obviously, given the crash).
> 
> To me, this indicates several crashed and the beginnings of MEI corruption.
> 
> @reev3r...I'd be going to stock clocks and re-flashing your BIOS ASAP. I've seen this stuff before. It's usually caused by a crash, BIOS gets a little bit corrupted, then slowly gets worse and worse... and if not dealt with, makes the system unresponsive (at least on boards with single BIOS< which this board is not).
> 
> I'd also look at the possibility that you hit the BIOS button and it swapped to the other BIOS.


The crash was prior to this happpening. The system has apparently been running like this rock solid since Wednesday, with as much as ten hours straight in FC4. Additionally, the CPU was pulling only ~45Watts according to Core Temp, and my total system load was under 300watts at the outlet.

Anyhow, as stated, after a third restart (unrelated to this) it seems to have reverted back to my 1.325v setting.

What is the H1 profile? Sorry, I don't use profiles for anything...

As for the BIOS, it's still on the same setting as always, and now I am sort of wishing I could go back and figure out what it was, given that it was stable for ~5 days including some intense gaming sessions...

Anyhow, its gone now, much of a bummer if you ask me, back to my ~875W full load (Well, not anymore, at least not without my 670's anyway).

Certainly something to contemplate though, as I have never seen anything like it before...


----------



## cadaveca

The OC panel has an OC profile that is enabled by a single button(the OC button on the panel), and the settings can be changed in the BIOS. Given the power consumption, maybe it disabled some cores, or something.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Itd be too hard for me but that is badass dude


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Okay, guys, I have a minor problem.

When I put in my 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz C9 I just went into bios and changed the settings from 1866Mhz (last kit) to the "stock" for the Platinums, rig has been downloading games for about a day and a half, been running Far Cry 4 @ 1440p and BF4 @ 4K, FC4 is horrible, but BF4 has gotten worse too ... I have 150+ FPS in-game and it seems to have some slightly lag here and there, only change in my system is the "new" RAM and the increase of RAM-speed from 1866Mhz to 2400Mhz.

Setup:

4930K @ 4,7 Ghz with 1,3 v
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz
4x R9 290X (stock)
2x EVGA G2 1300W

CPU 8-pin, 24-pin MB-contact and molex are all on the same PSU.







There should be no problem here, could the RAM cause issues like this? It is bad enough that I cannot be accurate with the Sniper in-game, any rush-weapon is fine.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Run some memory stress tests or do a 32m pi run with each kit and compare


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Itd be too hard for me but that is badass dude


Actually, it is *reasonably* easy to do, you simply buy the Arduino and the shield you want, then there are what are called libraries, so for this display I am using UTFT for now, and from there you use what is called a sketch, most libraries include examples, so you can start there. I used an example to begin with, and simply modified things to see what different things did, eventually finding what controlled x and y locations, as well as rotation, text color, etc. etc...

The difficult part for me right now, is combining the temp probe libraries with the LCD libraries, my limited skill has me scouring the net for some info, but I may need to ask soon...

Additionally, it can be done much easier with analog probes too...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, guys, I have a minor problem.
> 
> When I put in my 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz C9 I just went into bios and changed the settings from 1866Mhz (last kit) to the "stock" for the Platinums, rig has been downloading games for about a day and a half, been running Far Cry 4 @ 1440p and BF4 @ 4K, FC4 is horrible, but BF4 has gotten worse too ... I have 150+ FPS in-game and it seems to have some slightly lag here and there, only change in my system is the "new" RAM and the increase of RAM-speed from 1866Mhz to 2400Mhz.
> 
> Setup:
> 
> 4930K @ 4,7 Ghz with 1,3 v
> 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz
> 4x R9 290X (stock)
> 2x EVGA G2 1300W
> 
> CPU 8-pin, 24-pin MB-contact and molex are all on the same PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There should be no problem here, could the RAM cause issues like this? It is bad enough that I cannot be accurate with the Sniper in-game, any rush-weapon is fine.


you put in the memory and think you are stable... but are you prime stable ? the lag could be error corrections

if it is you may need cads help with memory


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you put in the memory and think you are stable... but are you prime stable ? the lag could be error corrections
> 
> if it is you may need cads help with memory


I got a chuckle out of that...

"But are you prime stable ?"


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, guys, I have a minor problem.
> 
> When I put in my 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz C9 I just went into bios and changed the settings from 1866Mhz (last kit) to the "stock" for the Platinums, rig has been downloading games for about a day and a half, been running Far Cry 4 @ 1440p and BF4 @ 4K, FC4 is horrible, but BF4 has gotten worse too ... I have 150+ FPS in-game and it seems to have some slightly lag here and there, only change in my system is the "new" RAM and the increase of RAM-speed from 1866Mhz to 2400Mhz.
> 
> Setup:
> 
> 4930K @ 4,7 Ghz with 1,3 v
> 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz
> 4x R9 290X (stock)
> 2x EVGA G2 1300W
> 
> CPU 8-pin, 24-pin MB-contact and molex are all on the same PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There should be no problem here, could the RAM cause issues like this? It is bad enough that I cannot be accurate with the Sniper in-game, any rush-weapon is fine.






does it present its self as periodic stuttering/hanging, every 5-10 minutes?

sounds like the issue i've been having since bumping my memory up to stock 2400mhz c10/10/12/24. or was it 10/12/12/24, I forget, not at home,.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you put in the memory and think you are stable... but are you prime stable ? the lag could be error corrections
> 
> if it is you may need cads help with memory


No, I have not stressed it in anything other than games yet, have not really had the time to do it. Will make a couple of runs in AIDA when I have the time, might not be until late this week though.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> does it present its self as periodic stuttering/hanging, every 5-10 minutes?
> 
> sounds like the issue i've been having since bumping my memory up to stock 2400mhz c10/10/12/24. or was it 10/12/12/24, I forget, not at home,.


No, it lags when zooming in and out with a scope in BF4, FC4 was stuttering, glitching, lagging (also periodical hanging) and tearing all the time, even at 1440P with "LOW" settings ... no good with 14.9 at least, I think I am going to try 14.11 something, the beta.

BF4 went from smooth to small lags when zooming in and out with a scope, bad enough that I could not hit anything. Would 9-9-9-24 and 1,5 volts work with my Platinum sticks? That was the timings and voltage my prior kit had. :/ The alternative is playing with Assult, Engineer and Support instead of sniper ...


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> No, I have not stressed it in anything other than games yet, have not really had the time to do it. Will make a couple of runs in AIDA when I have the time, might not be until late this week though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, it lags when zooming in and out with a scope in BF4, FC4 was stuttering, glitching, lagging (also periodical hanging) and tearing all the time, even at 1440P with "LOW" settings ... no good with 14.9 at least, I think I am going to try 14.11 something, the beta.
> 
> BF4 went from smooth to small lags when zooming in and out with a scope, bad enough that I could not hit anything. Would 9-9-9-24 and 1,5 volts work with my Platinum sticks? That was the timings and voltage my prior kit had. :/ The alternative is playing with Assult, Engineer and Support instead of sniper ...


check secondary timings. Often they do not match. You can find them listed in the BIOS' tools page, under SPD Tool. Also, boost VCCSA(system Agent) to 1.2-1.25V, and if that helps, then work your way lower.

You might also need to increase vCore.

Changing memory can be a big undertaking with this platform, especially when using double-sided Samsung sticks.

Try 2133 MHz 9-11-10-27-2t- 7-171-8320-16-8-40-8-6-8 @ 1.5V-1.575V

or 9-10-9-27-6-151-7936-14-7-32-7-5-8 @ 1.5V-1.575V


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

No dramas 24/7 . Chilled loops

http://valid.canardpc.com/zc1qd8


----------



## skupples

FC4 is lagging, skipping, and stuttering for a majority of users, even on peasant box, so that's not a good judge









hm... not sure if my Trident X 2400mhz C10 kit is Sammy or Hynix... Pretty sure it's Hynix though.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> check secondary timings. Often they do not match. You can find them listed in the BIOS' tools page, under SPD Tool. Also, boost VCCSA(system Agent) to 1.2-1.25V, and if that helps, then work your way lower.
> 
> You might also need to increase vCore.
> 
> Changing memory can be a big undertaking with this platform, especially when using double-sided Samsung sticks.
> 
> Try 2133 MHz 9-11-10-27-2t- 7-171-8320-16-8-40-8-6-8 @ 1.5V-1.575V
> 
> or 9-10-9-27-6-151-7936-14-7-32-7-5-8 @ 1.5V-1.575V


I will try the vccsa from 1,2-1,25, i am already running 1,3 vc, this cpu do 2666 mhz at that voltage (jpmboy-previous owner said so). I will bump it up a notch if it is unstable though.


----------



## anamnesis

One quick question for owner of the RIVEBE, if you had the choice, would you still buy the RIVE BE or would you go for the RVE?
I'm wondering for this at the moment since changing to 2011-v3 require new ram too..
Thanks
Anamnesis


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I will try the vccsa from 1,2-1,25, i am already running 1,3 vc, this cpu do 2666 mhz at that voltage (jpmboy-previous owner said so). I will bump it up a notch if it is unstable though.


Might have to go higher then, even. 2666 is 2133 MHz x 125 BCLK
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anamnesis*
> 
> One quick question for owner of the RIVEBE, if you had the choice, would you still buy the RIVE BE or would you go for the RVE?
> I'm wondering for this at the moment since changing to 2011-v3 require new ram too..
> Thanks
> Anamnesis


Money no object, go with the most recent platform.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Might have to go higher then, even. 2666 is 2133 MHz x 125 BCLK


Yes, I do not know. I did run P95 (version 28.5) Blend for 35 minutes and no errors ... kind of weird (game was lagging after 5 minutes).

Settings in BIOS:

9-11-11-31-2 (first timings)
7-183-9360-16-9-30-9-6-8 (second timings)

DRAM CKE Minimum Pulse Width showed 6 6 6, there were only three of them, instead of four which I guess it should be(?) CHD column did not have any number, CHA, CHB, CHC and CHD had the same values for everything else beside the one mentioned in the start of this sentence.

CPU VCCSA - manual mode - 1,12 volt
CPU Vcore 1,3 volt
4,7 Ghz
2400 Mhz RAM


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Yes, I do not know. I did run P95 (version 28.5) Blend for 35 minutes and no errors ... kind of weird (game was lagging after 5 minutes).
> 
> Settings in BIOS:
> 
> 9-11-11-31-2 (first timings)
> 7-183-9360-16-9-30-9-6-8 (second timings)
> 
> DRAM CKE Minimum Pulse Width showed 6 6 6, there were only three of them, instead of four which I guess it should be(?) CHD column did not have any number, CHA, CHB, CHC and CHD had the same values for everything else beside the one mentioned in the start of this sentence.
> 
> CPU VCCSA - manual mode - 1,12 volt
> CPU Vcore 1,3 volt
> 4,7 Ghz
> 2400 Mhz RAM


Yeah, push up that vCCSA, man, or try more vCore and see if that helps your stutter issues. I'd try 1.35V or 1.4V on vCore is your cooling can handle it, and 1.2V or so on the VCCSA. 2400 MHz divider is the last working divider, so will be the hardest to get stable. You can also try running BCLK OC, with like 131 or so with 1866 divider, should get you close to 2400, and should be easier for the CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> FC4 is lagging, skipping, and stuttering for a majority of users, even on peasant box, so that's not a good judge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hm... not sure if my Trident X 2400mhz C10 kit is Sammy or Hynix... Pretty sure it's Hynix though.


Dunno how I missed this earlier, but you are right, likely Hynix, just like 2666 C11 is likely Hynix. but it could be a poor set of Samsungs, most will do that 9-11-11-31 pretty easily, even the el-cheapo low-profile Samsung-branded ones seem to be able to do that.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Yeah, push up that vCCSA, man, or try more vCore and see if that helps your stutter issues. I'd try 1.35V or 1.4V on vCore is your cooling can handle it, and 1.2V or so on the VCCSA. 2400 MHz divider is the last working divider, so will be the hardest to get stable. You can also try running BCLK OC, with like 131 or so with 1866 divider, should get you close to 2400, and should be easier for the CPU.
> Dunno how I missed this earlier, but you are right, likely Hynix, just like 2666 C11 is likely Hynix. but it could be a poor set of Samsungs, most will do that 9-11-11-31 pretty easily, even the el-cheapo low-profile Samsung-branded ones seem to be able to do that.


I know it does 4875 Mhz with 2666 RAM, which timings and voltage would I be looking at for the RAM sticks then? I could ask jpmboy as well, he helped me with setting up the bios right for 4.9 Ghz, I think 4875 mhz is 1,36 vcore, I am sure he knows which timings and VCCSA to use aswell. 

Anyways, why is it stuttering? P95 runs fine and show no errors ... need to get myself the pro version of AIDA64 though.

Okay, I have tried this without any luck:

8-10-10-21-160-1T, all secondary timings is the same as each other. 1,575 volt, 2133 Mhz: BF4 not responding when joining a server. VCCSA: 1,18. Should I try 1,6 volts, seems to be "more wrong" than the 2400 settings.

9-11-11-31-183-2T, all secondary timings is the same as each other: 1,65 volt, 2400 Mhz: BF4 lagging exactly the same as before, VCCSA; 1,25. Still pretty unplayable. 1,12 volt vs 1,25 volt VCCSA feels the same ...

I am going to try these timings as well:
9-11-11-28-160-1T 2133 Mhz, 1,575 volt (if it does not respond I will try 1,6 volt)
9-11-10-26-160-1T 2133 Mhz, 1,575 volt

I am giving up those Platinums, back to Ballistix Elite! Have wasted too much time on them already.

Aaaaaaand, my machine is the same as before without any tweaking. Running 1866 Mhz again and played a flawless round of BF4, will be running with this then.


----------



## cadaveca

Sounds like a flaky IMC. 1866 is the default for this platform, so no surprise that works well for you.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Sounds like a flaky IMC. 1866 is the default for this platform, so no surprise that works well for you.


Perhaps, seems all good now at least.

Okay, so CPU is done, RAM is done. Only GPU's left I guess ...


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> FC4 is lagging, skipping, and stuttering for a majority of users, even on peasant box, so that's not a good judge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hm... not sure if my Trident X 2400mhz C10 kit is Sammy or Hynix... Pretty sure it's Hynix though.


FC4 works flawlessly for me on 1.4 patch all settings to high, no aa, use the fc3 sli flag, triple buffering turned on.
Absolutely no problems whatsoever tbh.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> FC4 works flawlessly for me on 1.4 patch all settings to high, no aa, use the fc3 sli flag, triple buffering turned on.
> Absolutely no problems whatsoever tbh.


how did you prevent 1.5 from installing?

Anyways, question for the resident brainiacs....

Intel SATA 3.0 or Asmedia 6.0



Are Asmedia 6.0 SATA controllers just as bad / worse / = to Marvel ports?

Trying to figure out which I should connect my secondary SSDs to...


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> how did you prevent 1.5 from installing?
> 
> Anyways, question for the resident brainiacs....
> 
> Intel SATA 3.0 or Asmedia 6.0
> 
> 
> 
> Are Asmedia 6.0 SATA controllers just as bad / worse / = to Marvel ports?
> 
> Trying to figure out which I should connect my secondary SSDs to...


I find Intel a bit faster, but that can change depending on what firmware your SSD is running. For mechanical drives, it doesn't make enough difference to matter, but if you want every MB, Intel are the ports to use.

It's also worth noting that filling up the Intel controller can lead to a bit of bandwidth loss in my testing, but again, that could have been a firmware issue.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I find Intel a bit faster, but that can change depending on what firmware your SSD is running. For mechanical drives, it doesn't make enough difference to matter, but if you want every MB, Intel are the ports to use.
> 
> It's also worth noting that filling up the Intel controller can lead to a bit of bandwidth loss in my testing, but again, that could have been a firmware issue.


thanks










kinda sad that intel 3.0 is faster than asmedia 6.0.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kinda sad that intel 3.0 is faster than asmedia 6.0.


It all depends on the drive. Some SSDs get pretty slow when full, and SATA 3.0 is good enough. Of course, mechanicals are too slow to notice. Also, no RAID on the ASMedia, so it's only single drive performance.

I also missed typing Intel 6.0. ROFL.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> It all depends on the drive. Some SSDs get pretty slow when full, and SATA 3.0 is good enough. Of course, mechanicals are too slow to notice. Also, no RAID on the ASMedia, so it's only single drive performance.
> 
> I also missed typing Intel 6.0. ROFL.


wait wait wait... you can't run raid on Asmedia controllers? Really? There goes my plans for a striped up HDD storage... Guess i'll just put that money towards further beefing up this Z77 server i'm putting together for school.


----------



## Mega Man

?


----------



## yttocstfarc

What are your thoughts on when will the cpus for this board start having issues keeping up with newer video cards as they come out?
My rig is in my signature if you need it.


----------



## Mega Man

2 questions,

1 please see rigbuilder in my sig

2 are you having an issue ?


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2 questions,
> 
> 1 please see rigbuilder in my sig
> 
> 2 are you having an issue ?


No no issues just trying to strike up conversation, Peoples opinions etc.

Just thought it might be an interesting topic to see what people thought about diminishing returns over the next few generations in multi-gpu configurations.

Fixed that for ya Mega its in my Sig.









Ya I been meaning to do that rigbuilder thing. Haven't been around in a while.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> What are your thoughts on when will the cpus for this board start having issues keeping up with newer video cards as they come out?
> My rig is in my signature if you need it.


when new graphics APIs allow unhindered CPU usage across all threads... So, probably ~early / mid 2016 before we start seeing a good chunk of titles that use DX12 and Mantle. Mantle keeps popping up in random projects, but damn I mean... How much benefit can a CIV game have from Mantle?  seems you could damn near play it on a Cell Phone at this point.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> when new graphics APIs allow unhindered CPU usage across all threads... So, probably ~early / mid 2016 before we start seeing a good chunk of titles that use DX12 and Mantle. Mantle keeps popping up in random projects, but damn I mean... How much benefit can a CIV game have from Mantle?  seems you could damn near play it on a Cell Phone at this point.


Interesting. So do you believe next generation cards (next after 900 series Nvidia) will be using all CPU threads? Even then thou I wonder if multi-gpu (2 and 3 way sli) would be hindered by say an overclocked 4930k/4960x?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Interesting. So do you believe next generation cards (next after 900 series Nvidia) will be using all CPU threads? Even then thou I wonder if multi-gpu (2 and 3 way sli) would be hindered by say an overclocked 4930k/4960x?


has nothing to do with cards using the threads. It has to do with the games being programmed in a way to utilize as much hardware as possible.

Very few games do this right now because it's apparently a major pain in the ass to program, though you do have some companies doing it. Cryengine does it very well, Frostbite does it pretty well, Unreal 4 should be it pretty well, once we start seeing more games released on it.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> has nothing to do with cards using the threads. It has to do with the games being programmed in a way to utilize as much hardware as possible.
> 
> Very few games do this right now because it's apparently a major pain in the ass to program, though you do have some companies doing it. Cryengine does it very well, Frostbite does it pretty well, Unreal 4 should be it pretty well, once we start seeing more games released on it.


Interesting. So your saying if/when Devs start programming for more CPU utilization thats when our boards/chips will start showing weaknesses?


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastian*
> 
> Anyone with random reboots, despite being stable in Prime or other testing apps on the Black, with no BSOD or error message or if your system automatically startups/shuts down, please post here about it:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?41458-Rampage-Black-IV-Random-Reboots&s=5df7af97398dd263499aa47350a32e58&country=&status=
> 
> Post your full system specs and BIOS settings and any troubleshooting you have done or testing.


Yes.. Hi Bastian. Thanks for the link.

Mine does this occasionally. I've been going through Raja's suggestions. However in my case it doesn't fix the problem and I'm still looking for a solution. Not sure is it a faulty board or RAM incompatibility. But the memory tests as 'good' in memory tests on another board. I don't have replacement RAM to test but my supplier have been kind enough to ship me a replacement board... I guess if the problem vanishes after a rebuild I can safely say it's a faulty board?

We shell see...


----------



## Mikecdm

I just upgraded my daily to a R4BE and getting terrible sound quality. A lot of distortion and even low volume. I tried using the analog connection and even with the toslink it sounds terrible. Any ideas why it might do that. Unless I have a bad board, i haven't been able to figure it out.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikecdm*
> 
> I just upgraded my daily to a R4BE and getting terrible sound quality. A lot of distortion and even low volume. I tried using the analog connection and even with the toslink it sounds terrible. Any ideas why it might do that. Unless I have a bad board, i haven't been able to figure it out.


Yeah, that's odd, I get pretty good sound over both optical and analog, when pushed to a normal home HT amp and some pretty decent speakers. One thing to check is "amplify" level


----------



## skupples

huh, i've NEVER noticed that setting in that control panel. Now i'm going to have to go look for it & mess with it, when I get home.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> huh, i've NEVER noticed that setting in that control panel. Now i'm going to have to go look for it & mess with it, when I get home.


Try headphone setting.









I like to try every angle when playing with stuff.


----------



## navynuke499

Im just wondering if anyone else has issues with their network adapter on this board?

I run a speed test on speedtest.net and get a ping of 60-70 each time. Download speed is 65Mbps and Upload is 4 Mbps. While all this seems just fine, as soon as I go in to any game, I get bad rubber banding and pings over 200. Is there something im missing?


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikecdm*
> 
> I just upgraded my daily to a R4BE and getting terrible sound quality. A lot of distortion and even low volume. I tried using the analog connection and even with the toslink it sounds terrible. Any ideas why it might do that. Unless I have a bad board, i haven't been able to figure it out.


are you plugged in to the board or front panel audio? Im using a set of AKG Q701s and if I use the on board connection you can barely hear anything. Through the front panel connector it is just fine though.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> Im just wondering if anyone else has issues with their network adapter on this board?
> 
> I run a speed test on speedtest.net and get a ping of 60-70 each time. Download speed is 65Mbps and Upload is 4 Mbps. While all this seems just fine, as soon as I go in to any game, I get bad rubber banding and pings over 200. Is there something im missing?


No problems here at all, running 131.25 MHz BCLK. 4592 CPU and 2800 MHz memory...

Using the 0701 BIOS, dunno if that matters. My speedtest.net result give 6ms ping and roughly 30 up/10 down. Even using WiFi doesn't give me any problems gaming.


----------



## Mikecdm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> are you plugged in to the board or front panel audio? Im using a set of AKG Q701s and if I use the on board connection you can barely hear anything. Through the front panel connector it is just fine though.


Mine is opposite. Rear panel sounds bad and doesn't get as loud as it could. Front panel is very low and I can still here sound through the speakers as well as headphones.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikecdm*
> 
> Mine is opposite. Rear panel sounds bad and doesn't get as loud as it could. Front panel is very low and I can still here sound through the speakers as well as headphones.


That doesn't sound right, front panel has amp to boost volume, and should be louder, and when options are selected to mute rear when front is plugged in, you should have no sound over speakers. Sounds like a naff'd ground wire or something, IMHO. Try unplugging front panel cable from board, see if that helps with rear output.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That doesn't sound right, front panel has amp to boost volume, and should be louder, and when options are selected to mute rear when front is plugged in, you should have no sound over speakers. Sounds like a naff'd ground wire or something, IMHO. Try unplugging front panel cable from board, see if that helps with rear output.


looks like my RealTek EQ doesn't have that setting you showed earlier, likely because i'm overriding with external AMP via optical.

for those complaining about the pop, hearing 2-3 of them is normal. One for the board first powering on, one for the amp coming on line, and another one for some other reason.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> looks like my RealTek EQ doesn't have that setting you showed earlier, likely because i'm overriding with external AMP via optical.
> 
> for those complaining about the pop, hearing 2-3 of them is normal. One for the board first powering on, one for the amp coming on line, and another one for some other reason.


Yeah, it's a headphone setting. When you get pop-up for selecting device when you plug in, and you select headphone, it enables this option. My digital output does not have this, like yours.

however, it seems that once another level other than "performace" is selected, the output level (or gain or whatever it is) stays selected.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> Yes.. Hi Bastian. Thanks for the link.
> 
> Mine does this occasionally. I've been going through Raja's suggestions. However in my case it doesn't fix the problem and I'm still looking for a solution. Not sure is it a faulty board or RAM incompatibility. But the memory tests as 'good' in memory tests on another board. I don't have replacement RAM to test but my supplier have been kind enough to ship me a replacement board... I guess if the problem vanishes after a rebuild I can safely say it's a faulty board?
> 
> We shell see...


Sounded like the surge protection was being tripped


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Sounded like the surge protection was being tripped


If that was soo, wouldn't the other systems on the same power-line go off too?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> If that was soo, wouldn't the other systems on the same power-line go off too?


Im talking about the surge protection the mobo has in the bios silly billy








After all this is the BE Mobo thread


----------



## Mikecdm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> That doesn't sound right, front panel has amp to boost volume, and should be louder, and when options are selected to mute rear when front is plugged in, you should have no sound over speakers. Sounds like a naff'd ground wire or something, IMHO. Try unplugging front panel cable from board, see if that helps with rear output.


I tried that as well, nothing seems to help. I think the board is messed up. I honestly don't care about front panel output, I just want rear output to sound as it should. I might have to try and rma this board, but it's such a pain to put in my case. Have to take out entire loop to get to the board.


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Im talking about the surge protection the mobo has in the bios silly billy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all this is the BE Mobo thread


Well you didn't specify this in your original reply, so I assumed ring mains.
I have however tried two different PSU's; an older AX750 and a SeaSonic Platinum-1000. Still does it.

How about some suggestions, I can try??


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> Well you didn't specify this in your original reply, so I assumed ring mains.
> I have however tried two different PSU's; an older AX750 and a SeaSonic Platinum-1000. Still does it.
> 
> How about some suggestions, I can try??


increasing current capacity in the bios to max.

that reminds me, I REALLY need to cash in the OC warranty on my 3930k. It's just sitting here acting like a paperweight.


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Popped on the C12 2800's, not problem with 2800 C11 @ 1.65V, still gotta play for better bandwidth though, since it's MFR, and the C10's would do this and be shooting near 75K. Nice job on BIOs tuning though, ASUS, (0701):


I have that bandwidth with 4x4 Gskill RipjawsZ 2133MHz, 9-11-10-28, CR=2T and BCLK 100MHz. (4930K @ 4.2GHz, R-IV-F)

R/W/C = 60789 / 60921 / 58016 MB/s.

http://imgur.com/vyT0Myw,HD7h2zJ,73gxLGu,IMuIWxf

Your should be really close to 70GB/s if not exceeding it.

CHEERS..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> Im just wondering if anyone else has issues with their network adapter on this board?
> 
> I run a speed test on speedtest.net and get a ping of 60-70 each time. Download speed is 65Mbps and Upload is 4 Mbps. While all this seems just fine, as soon as I go in to any game, I get bad rubber banding and pings over 200. Is there something im missing?


no issues here

http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4006026050

i game with mine without issues, is it possible your router has some issues ( settings wise ) or possibly the game ?


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no issues here
> 
> http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4006026050
> 
> i game with mine without issues, is it possible your router has some issues ( settings wise ) or possibly the game ?


Router works just fine. all other network adapters work great except for the one on board. The reason I went with this board was because of all the awesome features. It really sucks having to use a different adapter when one is built in.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> I have that bandwidth with 4x4 Gskill RipjawsZ 2133MHz, 9-11-10-28, CR=2T and BCLK 100MHz. (4930K @ 4.2GHz, R-IV-F)
> 
> R/W/C = 60789 / 60921 / 58016 MB/s.
> 
> http://imgur.com/vyT0Myw,HD7h2zJ,73gxLGu,IMuIWxf
> 
> Your should be really close to 70GB/s if not exceeding it.
> 
> CHEERS..


Yeah, sure. But...

Not with single-sided MFR sticks.










With the Samsung @ 2666 that died:


Corsair didn't have sticks worth replacing my 2666 C10's with. Sad thing, but oh well.


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> increasing current capacity in the bios to max.
> 
> that reminds me, I REALLY need to cash in the OC warranty on my 3930k. It's just sitting here acting like a paperweight.


Thanks Skupples.

That's one of the first things I tried. (#post386373)

Generally my system runs well for approximately12-16 hours then without warning it'll shutdown/restart. Windows logs reports nothing, no critical errors or power anything. It's just annoying.

Thanks but it's already set on 180%. Still doesn't solve the system's instability


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> Thanks Skupples.
> 
> That's one of the first things I tried. (#post386373)
> 
> Generally my system runs well for approximately12-16 hours then without warning it'll shutdown/restart. Windows logs reports nothing, no critical errors or power anything. It's just annoying.
> 
> Thanks but it's already set on 180%. Still doesn't solve the system's instability


i'm sure someone else has already said this, but memory!

you're running Sandy Bridge on this board, correct? I had these issues whenever my memory was even the slightest bit off kilter.

switching over to a 4930k from 3930k has been the best choice I've ever made, for this board at least.

decent test for this would be to slam the clocks down to 1600mhz w/ stock timings & volts, see how long it takes to reboot.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> I have that bandwidth with 4x4 Gskill RipjawsZ 2133MHz, 9-11-10-28, CR=2T and BCLK 100MHz. (4930K @ 4.2GHz, R-IV-F)
> 
> R/W/C = 60789 / 60921 / 58016 MB/s.
> 
> http://imgur.com/vyT0Myw,HD7h2zJ,73gxLGu,IMuIWxf
> 
> Your should be really close to 70GB/s if not exceeding it.
> 
> CHEERS..


Just for you I run some bench with max timings set. Note the tertiaries...they cannot get tighter...







Hynix MFR is not so good with efficiency; this takes 1.85V, or at least, that's what I set just to be sure.


----------



## skupples

some day I need to twist your arm to drudge through my attempts @ even getting 2400mhz w/ stock timings stable.

at least, i'm thinking its memory that's leading to my 2D and 3D hitching.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no issues here
> 
> http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4006026050
> 
> i game with mine without issues, is it possible your router has some issues ( settings wise ) or possibly the game ?
> 
> 
> 
> Router works just fine. all other network adapters work great except for the one on board. The reason I went with this board was because of all the awesome features. It really sucks having to use a different adapter when one is built in.
Click to expand...

the reason i mentioned the router is i had the same type of issue and anytime i had qos activated i got the same type of issues

however iirc i also use this driver

http://www.asus.com/us/Networking/PCEAC68/

you have to install it goto the folder for the utility extract the driver, uninstall then manually install the driver

always seems to work best for me


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Just for you I run some bench with max timings set. Note the tertiaries...they cannot get tighter...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hynix MFR is not so good with efficiency; this takes 1.85V, or at least, that's what I set just to be sure.


That is sick man.









Yust don't kill your IMC .

From what I've seen on the net DDR4 on X99 does not provide higher bandwidth than DDR3 on X79.

CHEERS..


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> That is sick man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yust don't kill your IMC .
> 
> From what I've seen on the net DDR4 on X99 does not provide higher bandwidth than DDR3 on X79.
> 
> CHEERS..


I've got 85-90k on X99. Better is coming soon, hopefully.









I got an extra 4960X and a 3960X to kill, and I got X99 too, so I have no fear of something going pop... But really, pushing 1.85V and 1.3 on VCCSA is no big deal. You just need adequate cooling.



I fully enjoy sitting down, finding max speed, then slowly, one by one, tightening all the timings, and then getting on Skype and talking smack with a friend or two and then running 3D benches against each other. AMD 290X and NVidia 780TI are quite similar for benching and all the memory tweaking can be that edge that pushes me one step ahead so I can fire back when I get beat by a couple hundred points.

Breaking 75k read/write on X79 on "normal" cooling is quite difficult, so playing with X99 is just more fun, for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> some day I need to twist your arm to drudge through my attempts @ even getting 2400mhz w/ stock timings stable.
> 
> at least, i'm thinking its memory that's leading to my 2D and 3D hitching.


I'm on vacation from college now, but got reviews stacked up high and have been spending time with my family and friends instead of doing review work.







I'll be done school at the end of April. ROFL.


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I've got 85-90k on X99. Better is coming soon, hopefully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got an extra 4960X and a 3960X to kill, and I got X99 too, so I have no fear of something going pop... But really, pushing 1.85V and 1.3 on VCCSA is no big deal. You just need adequate cooling.


Yeah it's easy for you as you get a plenty of hw for reviews so you can do with it pretty much everything that you can think of.









I actually have to pay to get my stuff.









Keep up the great work man on my favorite HW site.









CHEERS..


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> I've got 85-90k on X99. Better is coming soon, hopefully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got an extra 4960X and a 3960X to kill, and I got X99 too, so I have no fear of something going pop... But really, pushing 1.85V and 1.3 on VCCSA is no big deal. You just need adequate cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> I fully enjoy sitting down, finding max speed, then slowly, one by one, tightening all the timings, and then getting on Skype and talking smack with a friend or two and then running 3D benches against each other. AMD 290X and NVidia 780TI are quite similar for benching and all the memory tweaking can be that edge that pushes me one step ahead so I can fire back when I get beat by a couple hundred points.
> 
> Breaking 75k read/write on X79 on "normal" cooling is quite difficult, so playing with X99 is just more fun, for me.
> I'm on vacation from college now, but got reviews stacked up high and have been spending time with my family and friends instead of doing review work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be done school at the end of April. ROFL.






someone over on the last purchase thread picked up 64GB of 2400 mhz for is 4930k on X979 ASUS board (or w/e it's called) he stated it would take him less than a day to get it fully stable, I just wished him luck & moved on.


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> Yeah it's easy for you as you get a plenty of hw for reviews so you can do with it pretty much everything that you can think of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually have to pay to get my stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep up the great work man on my favorite HW site.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHEERS..


Thanks, man. Merry Christmas to you.

And that said, yeah, I get the hardware, so I might as well push it a bit. Yet, with Intel's current stance on OC, I don't really feel that anyone should hesitate on pushing a bit, if they have bought a Tuning Plan warranty, and can be without a PC for a couple of weeks. While going to school, I've used a PC, but I bought a surface for that, and spent only a little time playing with hardware tweaking, and boy, it sure is great to get back at it and have some fun.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> someone over on the last purchase thread picked up 64GB of 2400 mhz for is 4930k on X979 ASUS board (or w/e it's called) he stated it would take him less than a day to get it fully stable, I just wished him luck & moved on.


2400 MHz is the highest memory multiplier possible. It can be hard, for sure. However, if you run the 2133/1866 multi, and then BCLK it up to 2333 @ 125 MHz, it's only a few MHZ more to hit 2400, and that's probably the easiest way to get 2400 stable. 8 sticks is really hard, even if using single-sided 4 GB sticks. I think I have an "above-average" chip, but I spend days and days finding true stability. getting it stable in a day, to me, is iimpossible...it takes more than a day just to test properly!

Oh, and Merry Christmas, man. And to anyone else that reads this!


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> i'm sure someone else has already said this, but memory!
> 
> you're running Sandy Bridge on this board, correct? I had these issues whenever my memory was even the slightest bit off kilter.
> 
> switching over to a 4930k from 3930k has been the best choice I've ever made, for this board at least.
> 
> decent test for this would be to slam the clocks down to 1600mhz w/ stock timings & volts, see how long it takes to reboot.


HI Skupples. Merry Christmas buddy









Thanks for the reply.

This chip and memory was moved from my RIVE to R4BE, on the older board it was hunky dory... I just fancied a new board.









I'm wondering, if what you said about the memory being "slightest bit off kilter", wouldn't this cause the system to crash whilst running a soak or stability tests? And crash logs be written in the console detailing the issues?? Thing is, mine appear to run just fin. Just sometimes for whatever reason almost a day without a glitch. Then WHAM!! It happens, nothing is written in the logs. Windows just informs me it doesn't know why it shut down - It's like some jacked the power for a split second, the system powers off and restarts. How and when it does it is really random. It doesn't even need to be running thing.. even sitting idle isn't safe.

For the meantime I can't use this machine for any serious work. It's way too easy to lose work.
Replacement board arrived yesterday, free of charge. I just need to find time to swap them out and return the old.

Now, If it's a memory issue, would the problem follow onto the replacement?


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> HI Skupples. Merry Christmas buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> This chip and memory was moved from my RIVE to R4BE, on the older board it was hunky dory... I just fancied a new board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wondering, if what you said about the memory being "slightest bit off kilter", wouldn't this cause the system to crash whilst running a soak or stability tests? And crash logs be written in the console detailing the issues?? Thing is, mine appear to run just fin. Just sometimes for whatever reason almost a day without a glitch. Then WHAM!! It happens, nothing is written in the logs. Windows just informs me it doesn't know why it shut down - It's like some jacked the power for a split second, the system powers off and restarts. How and when it does it is really random. It doesn't even need to be running thing.. even sitting idle isn't safe.
> 
> For the meantime I can't use this machine for any serious work. It's way too easy to lose work.
> Replacement board arrived yesterday, free of charge. I just need to find time to swap them out and return the old.
> 
> Now, If it's a memory issue, would the problem follow onto the replacement?













you aren't the only person to experience this type of issue on this board, and from what I remember most of the issues were resolved from tweaking memory.

This used to happen to me ALL the time when I Was running Sandy Bridge on this board, started happening so much that I picked up an Ivy-E... It hasn't happened even once since then, but I also haven't spent any time OCing. Set the cpu to 4.5, set memory to one step below stock w/ stock timings, so 2133 w/ stock timings, & it went away.


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you aren't the only person to experience this type of issue on this board, and from what I remember most of the issues were resolved from tweaking memory.
> 
> This used to happen to me ALL the time when I Was running Sandy Bridge on this board, started happening so much that I picked up an Ivy-E... It hasn't happened even once since then, but I also haven't spent any time OCing. Set the cpu to 4.5, set memory to one step below stock w/ stock timings, so 2133 w/ stock timings, & it went away.


Yeah.. Thanks for a vote of confidence.








I've spent like 4 months tweaking this board, thought I got it perfect at one stage then those random issues happened. Now I think it's a hardware issue, possibly a faulty board....
There's a similar post here: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?45229-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-random-restart-shutdown-reboot

I don't fancy spending more money on old technology... I think, If i'm to upgrade now, I would probably got with X99 or wait for the next revision whatever that might be.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> Yeah.. Thanks for a vote of confidence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent like 4 months tweaking this board, thought I got it perfect at one stage then those random issues happened. Now I think it's a hardware issue, possibly a faulty board....
> There's a similar post here: http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?45229-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-random-restart-shutdown-reboot
> 
> I don't fancy spending more money on old technology... I think, If i'm to upgrade now, I would probably got with X99 or wait for the next revision whatever that might be.






the only reason why i replaced with a 4930k is because i had an intel OC warranty on the 3930k, so i'll eventually send it back, get the replacement, then sell it off for 350-400$ for a mostly break even acquisition.

the only thing I can really think of at this point is slightly reducing the memory clock speeds


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> the only reason why i replaced with a 4930k is because i had an intel OC warranty on the 3930k, so i'll eventually send it back, get the replacement, then sell it off for 350-400$ for a mostly break even acquisition.
> 
> the only thing I can really think of at this point is slightly reducing the memory clock speeds


Hmm... OC warranty, is that something you buy in addition to the processor? I purchased this 3960X on the very first week of release back in 2011.

From my precious experience it's very clockable and pretty good as far as it's memory controller is concerned. Guess I should really drop it into a modded pre-production MSI x79a gd65 8d and see how well it really OC's but I can't be ass.. lol


----------



## skupples

Yes, the OC warranty is something you buy separate from the processor, through the Intel website. If I remember correctly, it was $25 for the 3930k.


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yes, the OC warranty is something you buy separate from the processor, through the Intel website. If I remember correctly, it was $25 for the 3930k.


You could always make a expensive keythob from it


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Merry XMAS to all


----------



## skupples




----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I luv my 4960x

http://valid.x86.fr/uhr8zu


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Hi HOMECINEMA-PC !

With memory are you using ?

Need some timings, second and third, pleace








I will try this with my cpu too









Hopefully my IMC is good as well









I have 2400MHz Corsair Dominator CL9 must be possible to get 2666+

Greedings


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi HOMECINEMA-PC !
> 
> With memory are you using ?
> 
> Need some timings, second and third, pleace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try this with my cpu too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully my IMC is good as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2400MHz Corsair Dominator CL9 must be possible to get 2666+
> 
> Greetings


Gidday maaate









CL 11 2666 Dom Plats 16gb of em
Cant run it on 100 strap must be 125 strap or higher ( specially if ya wanna run em 2666 on XMP with these particular DIMMS )
Will pull 3000mhz on Haswell 4790k / G3258 no problem .

Could run tighter 2ndaries works well already . Me happy with this Gaming 24 / 7 OC ( one of many 24/7 O/C's ) . 1.85vc ram and at least 1.25vc on VCSSA and VTT


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

Gidday maaate









Thx, i will try 2666Mhz with my domis max 1.7V Dram, it´s mabye possible if not, its ok with 2400Mhz.
I will give it a try, more as bsod it will hopefully not happen









I run always 125 straps because of the "writebug" with 100 and 2400Mhz


----------



## MsNikita

Merry Christmas









Though, I'd gladly swap my mobo for one or more of them lovelies.....


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> Merry Christmas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, I'd gladly swap my mobo for one or more of them lovelies.....


Not me lol my mobo is likely more loyal


----------



## skupples

OK. That's it!

This in EVERYTHING stutter has gone on long enough. TOMORROW I shall start diving into what's causing it. You know it's OC related when it happens in ancient titles, new titles, AAA titles, *and 2D clocks*


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> OK. That's it!
> 
> This in EVERYTHING stutter has gone on long enough. TOMORROW I shall start diving into what's causing it. You know it's OC related when it happens in ancient titles, new titles, AAA titles, *and 2D clocks*


Are you sure it's not just one of your cards crapping out?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MehlstaubtheCat*
> 
> Hi HOMECINEMA-PC !
> 
> With memory are you using ?
> 
> Need some timings, second and third, pleace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try this with my cpu too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully my IMC is good as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2400MHz Corsair Dominator CL9 must be possible to get 2666+
> 
> Greedings


try "Samsung" memory profiles in your BIOS for timings.







This will do rough secondary and tertiary timings; 2800 MHz should be possible for you.\, Hynix that Mr. PC here has is Hynix = 1.85V for best, Samsung likes over 2.0V, but will give tighter timings.


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Are you sure it's not just one of your cards crapping out?
> try "Samsung" memory profiles in your BIOS for timings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will do rough secondary and tertiary timings; 2800 MHz should be possible for you.\, Hynix that Mr. PC here has is Hynix = 1.85V for best, Samsung likes over 2.0V, but will give tighter timings.


For overclocking I used your review on TPU od *G Skill Ripyaws Z 2133MHz CL9 quad channel kit 4x 4GB*, since I have that RAM.

I set timings to 10-12-12-31, 2T, set RAM speed to *2400MHz*, vRAM is 1.66V (to compensate eventual Vdroop on RAM), and thing booted right into OS.

I tested stability with 2hrs of *P95 Custom test 4096 > 4096K*, 12000MB for test, it passed w/o errors.

Then I started *Memtest* 6x 2000MB for testing, also test over 100% completed w/o errors.

And for the end I testted it with *IBT 2.54*, Very High , 15 runs, also passed with flying colors.









VTT is @ 1.1125V, VCCSA is @ 1.110V.

*Stability testing:*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












==








==








==











*Bechmarks:*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












==








==








==











CHEERS..


----------



## CryptiK

After living with my 990x & R3E for the longest time (watercooled, PITA upgrading) I scored a low use 4960X & RIVE BE from a local guy.

Initial results just playing around - 4.4GHz @ 1.232v


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> For overclocking I used your review on TPU od *G Skill Ripyaws Z 2133MHz CL9 quad channel kit 4x 4GB*, since I have that RAM.
> 
> I set timings to 10-12-12-31, 2T, set RAM speed to *2400MHz*, vRAM is 1.66V (to compensate eventual Vdroop on RAM), and thing booted right into OS.
> 
> I tested stability with 2hrs of *P95 Custom test 4096 > 4096K*, 12000MB for test, it passed w/o errors.
> 
> Then I started *Memtest* 6x 2000MB for testing, also test over 100% completed w/o errors.
> 
> And for the end I testted it with *IBT 2.54*, Very High , 15 runs, also passed with flying colors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VTT is @ 1.1125V, VCCSA is @ 1.110V.
> 
> *Stability testing:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ==
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ==
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ==
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bechmarks:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ==
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ==
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ==
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHEERS..


1,3 volts for 4,2 Ghz? I think my bad 3930K will do that ... I hope you did not pay much for it, I gave 200 USD for my 3930K pre-owned (it is not worth more either).


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> 1,3 volts for 4,2 Ghz? I think my bad 3930K will do that ... I hope you did not pay much for it, I gave 200 USD for my 3930K pre-owned (it is not worth more either).


Yeah it's pretty bad CPU for OC, but I got the CPU, RIVF and 16GB GSkill Ripyaws Z 2133MHz (4x4GB) pretty cheap especially in my country.

After selling my 3770K , Asus P8Z68-V PRO/Gen3 and 2x 4GB HyperX Blu 1600 i ended up adding 380$ for upgrading to this , less than 1 year old gear.

So I'm pretty happy even though my old 3770K was great clocker , 1.20V for 4.5GHz, and ran very cool.









Now I didn't reinstall OS, just installed drivers for Rampage IV formula, and I had BSOD 116 code for a few times but nothing serious.
Rig is 100% stable in stress testing (P95, IBT, MemTest etc) , those few BSOD's I had were all in IDLE state, probably OS related.

If someone also had issues with 116 code BSOD let me know









CHEERS..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Are you sure it's not just one of your cards crapping out?
> try "Samsung" memory profiles in your BIOS for timings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will do rough secondary and tertiary timings; 2800 MHz should be possible for you.\, Hynix that Mr. PC here has is Hynix = 1.85V for best, Samsung likes over 2.0V, but will give tighter timings.


it's always possible. was going to do some lane disabling to double check, but it seems unlikely since I've gone the lazy route via forcing different GPUs to dedicate to physX, which renders 0% usage @ idle clocks in games w/o physx.


----------



## Raghar

I forgot to post some images.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

........ and forgot to use the flash too

Happy new year BE peeps from 'stralia


----------



## reev3r

Alright... Been a while since I have posted...

A couple tidbits, updates, questions and generalness...

First, the best news!!!

I got my 4930K up to 4.6GHz last night!!! I have been stuck at 4.4GHz/1.235V for quite some time now, and could not get above that without pushing beyond 1.4V, which I was unwilling to do. For some reason, last night during a boredom session I started tinkering, and somehow I was able to get a solid 4.6GHz with 1.375V... A bit high for my preference, but with the consensus being 1.4 is alright, I'll take it! It was shooting above 1.4V under load, but it stopped doing so once I dropped the voltage from the 1.38 I was at...

More news, I got my 400mm reservoir installed, and unfortunately found it is *slightly* too large, so my resolution is going to be to drill a hole in both of the midplates, and use a bulkhead fitting, and a M/M fitting to affix them (planning on a second one soon), then several 'Y' adapters to run them in parallel. I think it will look mighty fine once complete! Right now it is held in place with some hook&loop and a few sip-ties, but it doesn't look *terrible* (mostly)...

Right now I am TORN between getting a waterblock for my Gigabyte 970 G1, and a monoblock for the board... I desperately believe the board needs it more, since the card, even overclocked to 1,514MHz doesn't exceed 65C, but the board (VRM/MOSFET) gets burn fingers hot, which I am NOT comfortable with. So, since the 970 isn't imperative at the moment, I think I will go for the monoblock first. That being said, does anybody have a preference for which one? I am torn between the BitsPower and the EK blocks. It appears to me that the EK block is MUCH, MUCH more well machined, whereas the BP unit just looks like a couple of standard blocks just made to fit... While the EK block is clearly machined as needed. Another thing I noticed, is that the EK block actually cools the components under the ROG/eye logo midboard, whereas the BP block doesn't have anything there to cool... Ideally I would prefer to have as much coverage as possible, but is this necessary? That is to say, is it safe for whatever is beneath there to not be actively/passively cooled? It just doesn't feel right to me...

Any thoughts on that last bit are appreciated, especially from owners of either block...

If anybody has any additional thoughts, especially regarding the decision to do a bulkhead mount to the midplates on my STH10, it would be greatly appreciated. Normally I am anti-permanent mod, but since I can replace the midplates I am not terribly opposed to it, plus the previous owner has already drilled various holes into it for mounting hardware, and given how fantastic I think it will look with dual 400mm res's bulkhead-mounted, I am motivated to do so...

Oh, final note, I am also planning to drill and tap some additional G1/4 holes to my reservoirs, since one side contains just a single hole, and ideally I would like a separate drain port for each res. Alternatively, I have considered simply adding a 'T' to drain after the 'Y' brings both together to a single line, but thought I would ask for thoughts on that as well...


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Alright... Been a while since I have posted...
> 
> A couple tidbits, updates, questions and generalness...
> 
> First, the best news!!!
> 
> I got my 4930K up to 4.6GHz last night!!! I have been stuck at 4.4GHz/1.235V for quite some time now, and could not get above that without pushing beyond 1.4V, which I was unwilling to do. For some reason, last night during a boredom session I started tinkering, and somehow I was able to get a solid 4.6GHz with 1.375V... A bit high for my preference, but with the consensus being 1.4 is alright, I'll take it! It was shooting above 1.4V under load, but it stopped doing so once I dropped the voltage from the 1.38 I was at...


Hmm... Have you ever thought of undervolting it? Instead of boosting the voltage over and above 1.4?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> Hmm... Have you ever thought of undervolting it? Instead of boosting the voltage over and above 1.4?


Current voltage is below 1.4 as it is at 4.6GHz, which, given the other overclocks I have seen/heard of, is quite respectable for six cores of glory... As for undervolting, I can't imagine I would get a 4.6GHz overclock undervolted... Or am I missing something?


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Current voltage is below 1.4 as it is at 4.6GHz, which, given the other overclocks I have seen/heard of, is quite respectable for six cores of glory... As for undervolting, I can't imagine I would get a 4.6GHz overclock undervolted... Or am I missing something?


There's nothing wrong with it.. I just think it's possible to get higher clocks with less juice and more current, especially if you're water-cooled - Just an idea.
When i tried it with my 3960x, higher voltages lead to higher temps and under-volting slightly then boosting the current capacity made it more stable.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Offset vcore and 100 strap , C1E , C3 and sidestep on , C6 and C7 off .


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Im talking about the surge protection the mobo has in the bios silly billy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all this is the BE Mobo thread


*Update:*

Well what do you know... I swapped the motherboards over, left everything pretty much at stock, didn't bother updating the bios (yet) or re-installing anything; I simply swapped the board over. Tweaked a few things and left the soaking begin. Twenty-fours hours later my system is still running faultless; same hardware, same settings, 64Gb memory is even in XMP...

I'm guess the board was faulty somewhere?







Anyway, just thought I'd give you an update.









*Happy New Year!! !!!*


----------



## Nunzi

Happy New year to all !


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Alright... Been a while since I have posted...
> 
> A couple tidbits, updates, questions and generalness...
> 
> First, the best news!!!
> 
> I got my 4930K up to 4.6GHz last night!!! I have been stuck at 4.4GHz/1.235V for quite some time now, and could not get above that without pushing beyond 1.4V, which I was unwilling to do. For some reason, last night during a boredom session I started tinkering, and somehow I was able to get a solid 4.6GHz with 1.375V... A bit high for my preference, but with the consensus being 1.4 is alright, I'll take it! It was shooting above 1.4V under load, but it stopped doing so once I dropped the voltage from the 1.38 I was at...
> 
> More news, I got my 400mm reservoir installed, and unfortunately found it is *slightly* too large, so my resolution is going to be to drill a hole in both of the midplates, and use a bulkhead fitting, and a M/M fitting to affix them (planning on a second one soon), then several 'Y' adapters to run them in parallel. I think it will look mighty fine once complete! Right now it is held in place with some hook&loop and a few sip-ties, but it doesn't look *terrible* (mostly)...
> 
> Right now I am TORN between getting a waterblock for my Gigabyte 970 G1, and a monoblock for the board... I desperately believe the board needs it more, since the card, even overclocked to 1,514MHz doesn't exceed 65C, but the board (VRM/MOSFET) gets burn fingers hot, which I am NOT comfortable with. So, since the 970 isn't imperative at the moment, I think I will go for the monoblock first. That being said, does anybody have a preference for which one? I am torn between the BitsPower and the EK blocks. It appears to me that the EK block is MUCH, MUCH more well machined, whereas the BP unit just looks like a couple of standard blocks just made to fit... While the EK block is clearly machined as needed. Another thing I noticed, is that the EK block actually cools the components under the ROG/eye logo midboard, whereas the BP block doesn't have anything there to cool... Ideally I would prefer to have as much coverage as possible, but is this necessary? That is to say, is it safe for whatever is beneath there to not be actively/passively cooled? It just doesn't feel right to me...
> 
> Any thoughts on that last bit are appreciated, especially from owners of either block...
> 
> If anybody has any additional thoughts, especially regarding the decision to do a bulkhead mount to the midplates on my STH10, it would be greatly appreciated. Normally I am anti-permanent mod, but since I can replace the midplates I am not terribly opposed to it, plus the previous owner has already drilled various holes into it for mounting hardware, and given how fantastic I think it will look with dual 400mm res's bulkhead-mounted, I am motivated to do so...
> 
> Oh, final note, I am also planning to drill and tap some additional G1/4 holes to my reservoirs, since one side contains just a single hole, and ideally I would like a separate drain port for each res. Alternatively, I have considered simply adding a 'T' to drain after the 'Y' brings both together to a single line, but thought I would ask for thoughts on that as well...


I'm running the EK Black Edition block and it seems pretty nice. Obviously well made (all my blocks are EK on this build). When you say it cools under where the ROG logo was, it kinda doesn't. It bolts there but that's all, didn't mention putting thermal pads under there or anything and there's no 'chip' for it to sit on. I did put a thin thermal pad on the 2 inductors there anyway, figured why not. It does keep the VRM much cooler though, running 4.5GHz here on the 4960X with no thermal throttling at all.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

@reev3r

What CryptiK said, there really isn't anything there to cool.

Red is the only place in that area that required a tim pad and blue shows what's under the ROG logo tower.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> There's nothing wrong with it.. I just think it's possible to get higher clocks with less juice and more current, especially if you're water-cooled - Just an idea.
> When i tried it with my 3960x, higher voltages lead to higher temps and under-volting slightly then boosting the current capacity made it more stable.


Again, perhaps I am not understanding the fundamentals here... There is a base voltage at which a CPU will work at a given frequency, and undervolting (essentially) requires that frequency to be lower right? I mean, granted you can find the lowest possible voltage for a given frequency, but isn't that just part of overclocking, to find the lowest stable voltage you can run at? I left my voltages at stock, and increased my CPU frequency until it was no longer stable, at which point I began upping the voltage by .005 (manually) until I got a stable voltage, then again with the frequency, and the same process over again. Once I got the highest stable frequency at a voltage I am comfortable with I 'lock' it in by moving to offset and getting at that same voltage using offset (in order to allow the dynamic voltage feature - can't recall the acronym or name ATM)...

This is, in a nutshell, the general procedure I see others doing, so how can I 'undervolt' and still have 4.6GHz? Additionally, the term 'undervolt' itself implies running at a lower than stock voltage, which would, I assume, require underclocking... Right?

You mention "Less juice, more current", how exactly would I go about that? I assume you are referring to volts and amps, respectively, but I was COMPLETELY unaware that you could change the current on a CPU... Help me out here, I am getting excited for new knowledge!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Offset vcore and 100 strap , C1E , C3 and sidestep on , C6 and C7 off .


Was this meant for me? I don't change the strap from 100 simply because the side effects are not a variable I want to deal with, plus my lack of knowledge regarding ALL of the potential effects of doing so...

As well, what effect does changing the aforementioned C-states have? What are their purposes?

Thanks guys!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> I'm running the EK Black Edition block and it seems pretty nice. Obviously well made (all my blocks are EK on this build). When you say it cools under where the ROG logo was, it kinda doesn't. It bolts there but that's all, didn't mention putting thermal pads under there or anything and there's no 'chip' for it to sit on. I did put a thin thermal pad on the 2 inductors there anyway, figured why not. It does keep the VRM much cooler though, running 4.5GHz here on the 4960X with no thermal throttling at all.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> @reev3r
> 
> What CryptiK said, there really isn't anything there to cool.
> 
> Red is the only place in that area that required a tim pad and blue shows what's under the ROG logo tower.


On my board the ROG logo heatsink is hot to the touch, I am guessing about 50-55℃, I just assumed since it is hot and an actual heatsink instead of just some block it was cooling something... In my comparison of the BP block and the EK block, the EK clearly has a more robust design, and more cooling surface aside from just the two plates on the BP unit...

It just feels like the BP unit was built down to a price instead of designed to be the best solution... Anybody have the BP block for temp comparison?

As for the blocks, I see you aren't using the monoblock, I am going with a monoblock to reduce clutter, any thoughts on that?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> On my board the ROG logo heatsink is hot to the touch, I am guessing about 50-55℃, I just assumed since it is hot and an actual heatsink instead of just some block it was cooling something... In my comparison of the BP block and the EK block, the EK clearly has a more robust design, and more cooling surface aside from just the two plates on the BP unit...
> 
> It just feels like the BP unit was built down to a price instead of designed to be the best solution... Anybody have the BP block for temp comparison?
> 
> As for the blocks, I see you aren't using the monoblock, I am going with a monoblock to reduce clutter, any thoughts on that?


I'm not sure why yours feels hot but the ROG logo thing is not a heatsink. It's just there for show.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not sure why yours feels hot but the ROG logo thing is not a heatsink. It's just there for show.


Fair enough... What is beneath it?I thought maybe it was ambient heat causing it to be hot, but even at idle with the inside of my case at or near ambient it is still warm, certainly warmer than nearby components... Is this heat exclusive to me, or do others have the same thing? I am just curious at this point.

I do have SERIOUS heat coming off the back of my board, so much so that I am considering either finishing my 'CaseSink' mod that will help dissipate the heat into my STH10, or having a hole cut into the motherboard tray to allow me to install a cooler of some sort. Burn your fingers, painfully, hot it gets back there, especially the CPU back plate and the VRM heat spreader on the back.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Fair enough... What is beneath it?I thought maybe it was ambient heat causing it to be hot, but even at idle with the inside of my case at or near ambient it is still warm, certainly warmer than nearby components... Is this heat exclusive to me, or do others have the same thing? I am just curious at this point.
> 
> I do have SERIOUS heat coming off the back of my board, so much so that I am considering either finishing my 'CaseSink' mod that will help dissipate the heat into my STH10, or having a hole cut into the motherboard tray to allow me to install a cooler of some sort. Burn your fingers, painfully, hot it gets back there, especially the CPU back plate and the VRM heat spreader on the back.


Don't recall. Mine's covered up by the ports of the xspc waterblock set.

I believe MehlstaubtheCat & skupples have cpu coolers on their backplate.


----------



## reev3r

On a side note, I really do LOVE this community! It is awesome to see the same people over and over, always around to lend a helpful thought and useful insight! Thanks to all of you!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Don't recall. Mine's covered up by the ports of the xspc waterblock set.
> 
> I believe MehlstaubtheCat & skupples have cpu coolers on their backplate.


Yeah, they are where I got the idea from. I thought it was kind of ridiculous when I first saw skupples doing it, back when I was 'rocking' my Z77/[email protected], with its nice, cold backplate... Right up until I finished getting my 4820K (BEFORE overclocking it) installed on this board, and discovered that X79 is a beast! Then moving to the 4930K at 4.4GHz was bananas, with freaking whipped cream and stuff... 

My motherboard tray is not terribly friendly when it comes to anything behind the board, because it is blocked off as there are two 'trays' so-to-speak, one the board mounts to, then one that that is permanently attached to that slides into the case (removable tray), and only the one the motherboard mounts to has a cutout, the secondary one does not, so the board must be uninstalled to change the backplate, so I can either do my own dremel-job (which is really a non-option for me as I avoid permanent mods, and especially with a $900 case), I could alternatively have it done professionally so it at least looks nice, but there is the cost, or... The option I will likely go with, the 'CaseSink' mod, and that is to sandwich some pieces of aluminum and thermal pads between the motherboard tray and the secondary 'tray' so that they transfer the heat to the second 'tray' to help spread it out and further dissipate it more efficiently. I think that the monoblock with be very helpful at getting rid of that excess heat as well, so I may not even end up doing the 'CaseSink' mod if the block works as I hope...

Perhaps someone has some insight regarding how hot the rear of the motherboard gets once the block(s) get installed... Specifically the CPU/VRM/MOSFET areas... The PCH area does not get terribly warm on my board, even when I was running SLI, which probably has negligible impact anyway, given the CPU houses the PCIe lanes, though I do suspect there is 'some' activity in the PCH for that particular feature... I will not be running SLI again for at least a few more months, until after I move to 3x1440 panels...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> You mention "Less juice, more current", how exactly would I go about that?


I believe he's referring to bumping up the current capability setting while down volting on the OC'ed chip. At least that's what it sounds like.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Fair enough... What is beneath it?I thought maybe it was ambient heat causing it to be hot, but even at idle with the inside of my case at or near ambient it is still warm, certainly warmer than nearby components... Is this heat exclusive to me, or do others have the same thing? I am just curious at this point.
> 
> I do have SERIOUS heat coming off the back of my board, so much so that I am considering either finishing my 'CaseSink' mod that will help dissipate the heat into my STH10, or having a hole cut into the motherboard tray to allow me to install a cooler of some sort. Burn your fingers, painfully, hot it gets back there, especially the CPU back plate and the VRM heat spreader on the back.


Nothing that generates any large amount of heat as far as I could tell. The logo tower on mine got a little warm but not much hotter than the case ambient from what I could tell. Given that my PCH temps were rather high it would not surprise me if it was dissipating some residual heat from the board that the PCH sink wasn't handling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> On a side note, I really do LOVE this community! It is awesome to see the same people over and over, always around to lend a helpful thought and useful insight! Thanks to all of you!


That's not what people usually have to say about my presence when it's persistent, so you must be talking about everyone else









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> On my board the ROG logo heatsink is hot to the touch, I am guessing about 50-55℃, I just assumed since it is hot and an actual heatsink instead of just some block it was cooling something...


We are talking about the small short rectangular sink between the cpu socket and teh top pci socket, right? I only ask because mine never got *anywhere* near that hot. Hell, thats as hot as the VRM sink got at the top of the board!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Perhaps someone has some insight regarding how hot the rear of the motherboard gets once the block(s) get installed... Specifically the CPU/VRM/MOSFET areas...


As I've said before, the PCH and VRM temps on mine dropped significantly after I put them under water. The low end I saw a 30c temp decrease from using the VRM/PCH blocks iirc, so I would assume that the temps of the back side of the board would drop proportionally. I can't comment on the back side of the socket though as I have a PSU blocking me from feeling it through the mobo tray back plate cutout. I'd guess that it isn't terribly warm when watercooling the CPU and would further speculate that yours is likely warm due to the excess heat from the VRM soaking into the board itself if your cpu is being cooled well.


----------



## skupples

hot to the touch due to the LEDs, that's all. definitely shouldn't be 55C, that would melt the plastic.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I believe he's referring to bumping up the current capability setting while down volting on the OC'ed chip. At least that's what it sounds like.
> Nothing that generates any large amount of heat as far as I could tell. The logo tower on mine got a little warm but not much hotter than the case ambient from what I could tell. Given that my PCH temps were rather high it would not surprise me if it was dissipating some residual heat from the board that the PCH sink wasn't handling.
> That's not what people usually have to say about my presence when it's persistent, so you must be talking about everyone else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are talking about the small short rectangular sink between the cpu socket and teh top pci socket, right? I only ask because mine never got *anywhere* near that hot. Hell, thats as hot as the VRM sink got at the top of the board!
> As I've said before, the PCH and VRM temps on mine dropped significantly after I put them under water. The low end I saw a 30c temp decrease from using the VRM/PCH blocks iirc, so I would assume that the temps of the back side of the board would drop proportionally. I can't comment on the back side of the socket though as I have a PSU blocking me from feeling it through the mobo tray back plate cutout. I'd guess that it isn't terribly warm when watercooling the CPU and would further speculate that yours is likely warm due to the excess heat from the VRM soaking into the board itself if your cpu is being cooled well.






same mosfets definitely benefit from cooling, though I've yet to see any proof that the chipset actually benefits from cooling, would love to see some evidence of this.

The back of the board? Shouldn't be much different than with passive cooling, possibly a few C cooler.

I rigged up a back plate mod for my CPU, thanks to Mehlstaubthecat.



it's a 1U server cooler, 1366 socket type, 2011 socket type won't fit.

guide in sig if curious, a terribly assembled guide.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Again, perhaps I am not understanding the fundamentals here... There is a base voltage at which a CPU will work at a given frequency, and undervolting (essentially) requires that frequency to be lower right? I mean, granted you can find the lowest possible voltage for a given frequency, but isn't that just part of overclocking, to find the lowest stable voltage you can run at? I left my voltages at stock, and increased my CPU frequency until it was no longer stable, at which point I began upping the voltage by .005 (manually) until I got a stable voltage, then again with the frequency, and the same process over again. Once I got the highest stable frequency at a voltage I am comfortable with I 'lock' it in by moving to offset and getting at that same voltage using offset (in order to allow the dynamic voltage feature - can't recall the acronym or name ATM)...
> 
> This is, in a nutshell, the general procedure I see others doing, so how can I 'undervolt' and still have 4.6GHz? Additionally, the term 'undervolt' itself implies running at a lower than stock voltage, which would, I assume, require underclocking... Right?
> 
> You mention "Less juice, more current", how exactly would I go about that? I assume you are referring to volts and amps, respectively, but I was COMPLETELY unaware that you could change the current on a CPU... Help me out here, I am getting excited for new knowledge!!!
> 
> *Was this meant for me?* I don't change the strap from 100 simply because the side effects are not a variable I want to deal with, plus my lack of knowledge regarding ALL of the potential effects of doing so...
> 
> As well, what effect does changing the aforementioned C-states have? What are their purposes?
> 
> Thanks guys!


Yes , essentially by doing that it will run low voltage state at idle and set amount ( VCore ) at load .
Setting the C states and SS as I suggested should stop the funny BSOD at idle . So 1.38vc and a + 20 offset + what ever the LLC is set at , roughly around 1.4vc for mentioned o/c you had set . Underclock at low load .

Someone correct me if I miss explained that










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not sure why yours feels hot but the ROG logo thing is not a heatsink. It's just there for show.


Cant see mine that well










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> hot to the touch due to the LEDs, that's all. definitely shouldn't be 55C, that would melt the plastic.


LooooL im on fire if that was the case


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I believe he's referring to bumping up the current capability setting while down volting on the OC'ed chip. At least that's what it sounds like.
> Nothing that generates any large amount of heat as far as I could tell. The logo tower on mine got a little warm but not much hotter than the case ambient from what I could tell. Given that my PCH temps were rather high it would not surprise me if it was dissipating some residual heat from the board that the PCH sink wasn't handling.
> That's not what people usually have to say about my presence when it's persistent, so you must be talking about everyone else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are talking about the small short rectangular sink between the cpu socket and teh top pci socket, right? I only ask because mine never got *anywhere* near that hot. Hell, thats as hot as the VRM sink got at the top of the board!
> As I've said before, the PCH and VRM temps on mine dropped significantly after I put them under water. The low end I saw a 30c temp decrease from using the VRM/PCH blocks iirc, so I would assume that the temps of the back side of the board would drop proportionally. I can't comment on the back side of the socket though as I have a PSU blocking me from feeling it through the mobo tray back plate cutout. I'd guess that it isn't terribly warm when watercooling the CPU and would further speculate that yours is likely warm due to the excess heat from the VRM soaking into the board itself if your cpu is being cooled well.


I'm on my phone so my response will not be as well formatted as I would prefer...

Yeah, the rectangular block with the republic of gamers eye and text in red is what I am referring to.... After measuring it with my IR probe I am getting between 40-50℃...

Regarding my overclock, I am perfectly stable at 4.6GHz/1.375, I've never had the BSOD at idle, and my unserclock drops to ~1,199MHz (the lowest I think), voltage is .800 IIRC.

@skupples, yours was the first build log I ever subbed, and you were working on the backplatemod at the time, additionally, and ironically, you have me my first rep. I'll never forget you man... lol

I seem to recall you having an STH10 as well (though I could very well be mixing it up with someone else), so how did you get past the terrible no CPU cutout? Unless you have a different tray than I do... Mine has a cutout on the motherboard tray, but there is an additional 'tray' that does not, and they are permanently attached, really the only oversight I see with this case...

Not sure if you read it, but I am mostly forced to forego the fan and fashion a 'heatsink/spreader' out of the mobo tray...


----------



## skupples

can't believe the ROG logo is probing @ 40C+ that's nuts


----------



## reev3r

Well, at least you see why I am concerned about the monoblock. 

Although I do believe that the 50℃ was a misread on my GPU backplate, although even that seems kind of wrong, since it was at idle.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I really don't think there's anything under that ROG logo block that would get hot.

http://www.overclockers.com/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-motherboard-review
Quote:


> _At mid-board, there is another heatsink looking block that features an illuminated ROG logo, but it too doesn't actually cool anything and is more for aesthetic value._
> 
> [...]
> 
> 
> .. _ROG Lighting Block Removed_


You can see that the only thing on that ROG logo block that even touches the board is that little rectangle where the three screw holes mount it. Can't imagine there's much of anything other than the LEDs themselves inside it that would be making its temps go over ambient.


----------



## MsNikita

*Before:*


*After:*
Detailed images from the center area of the board where the illuminated block is, I've included macros of the components there, directly under and to the right.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> *Before:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *After:*
> Detailed images from the center area of the board where the illuminated block is, I've included macros of the components there, directly under and to the right.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah but the thing is the only place that lil' lighted ROG heatsink looking block even touches the board is the part circled in red:



The block is elevated above the rest of that stuff so there's a space of air in between so no matter what that is under it the block itself isn't cooling it.


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah but the thing is the only place that lil' lighted ROG heatsink looking block even touches the board is the part circled in red:
> 
> 
> 
> The block is elevated above the rest of that stuff so there's a space of air in between so no matter what that is under it the block itself isn't cooling it.


There's nothing inside that block, the base and sides are metal, however the top half is all plastic and only houses 10-12 LED's and that's it.


----------



## MsNikita

This is completely irrelevant to the current discussion.

Whilst messing around with my old 'faulty' board, I notice there is a Mini-PCIe form-factor slot where the WIFI connection sits.
I guess this would allow users to replace or upgrade the wireless board in the near future??



Opening the metal housing reveals a standard mini-card, mounted by two screws.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> There's nothing inside that block, the base and sides are metal, however the top half is all plastic and only houses 10-12 LED's and that's it.


That's what I figured, so like I said above, "_Can't imagine there's much of anything other than the LEDs themselves inside it that would be making its temps go over ambient_." Seems odd to me that reev3r or anyone would be seeing it get "_50-55℃_". If the LEDs alone can make it get that hot, then might want to unplug that bad boy.


----------



## reev3r

As stated I think the 50℃ measurement was my GPU back plate and the 40℃ was the ROG block.

Regardless, I have the confirmation I need that it clearly does not cool anything, and it being anything above ambient is ABnormal... I am making guesses as to what is going on, but until I do a run on the test bench, I'll be doing just that, guessing... My dominant theory is that it is 'ambient' board heat, as my board does get quite hot, and even though it clearly isn't *meant* to cool anything, it just may be 'accidentally' cooling my very warm board...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> As stated I think the 50℃ measurement was my GPU back plate and the 40℃ was the ROG block. [...]


Sorry, the _"50-55℃"_ I put in quotes I got from this ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> [...] On my board the ROG logo heatsink is hot to the touch, I am guessing about 50-55℃, I just assumed since it is hot and an actual heatsink instead of just some block it was cooling something...[...]


Though now I do see where you later wrote ..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Yeah, the rectangular block with the republic of gamers eye and text in red is what I am referring to.... After measuring it with my IR probe I am getting between 40-50℃...


Still seem a bit hot for just a bunch of LEDs.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's what I figured, so like I said above, "_Can't imagine there's much of anything other than the LEDs themselves inside it that would be making its temps go over ambient_." Seems odd to me that reev3r or anyone would be seeing it get "_50-55℃_". If the LEDs alone can make it get that hot, then might want to unplug that bad boy.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> As stated I think the 50℃ measurement was my GPU back plate and the 40℃ was the ROG block.
> 
> Regardless, I have the confirmation I need that it clearly does not cool anything, and it being anything above ambient is ABnormal... I am making guesses as to what is going on, but until I do a run on the test bench, I'll be doing just that, guessing... My dominant theory is that it is 'ambient' board heat, as my board does get quite hot, and even though it clearly isn't *meant* to cool anything, it just may be 'accidentally' cooling my very warm board...
Click to expand...

You can turn that off in the bios and be done with it


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> This is completely irrelevant to the current discussion.
> 
> Whilst messing around with my old 'faulty' board, I notice there is a Mini-PCIe form-factor slot where the WIFI connection sits.
> I guess this would allow users to replace or upgrade the wireless board in the near future??
> 
> 
> 
> Opening the metal housing reveals a standard mini-card, mounted by two screws.


Woah! Thats a picture of a BE board?! I thought that was a fixed feature!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Woah! Thats a picture of a BE board?! I thought that was a fixed feature!


Yeah , always learning sumthin new with da BE


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Woah! Thats a picture of a BE board?! I thought that was a fixed feature!


Aye... It is.
I'm curious about it's electrical wiring now and wondering what capabilities the mini-pcie slot can support..


----------



## skupples

STH10 has a cut out, at least mine does. Might be part of the ordering process, mine was acquired used.


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> On my board the ROG logo heatsink is hot to the touch, I am guessing about 50-55℃, I just assumed since it is hot and an actual heatsink instead of just some block it was cooling something... In my comparison of the BP block and the EK block, the EK clearly has a more robust design, and more cooling surface aside from just the two plates on the BP unit...
> 
> It just feels like the BP unit was built down to a price instead of designed to be the best solution... Anybody have the BP block for temp comparison?
> 
> As for the blocks, I see you aren't using the monoblock, I am going with a monoblock to reduce clutter, any thoughts on that?


I think the heat you're measuring at the ROG block is being transferred through the mobo. It's a board with planes in it (ie: solid copper layers) and it's very good at transferring heat. The things dumping heat into the board (VRM's mainly, CPU and Southbridge) if cooled via water block should reduce overall board temps.

Monoblocks aren't appealing to me. I think they're unattractive and bulky. I'd try and find a Black Edition RIVE block from EK and just use that, by all accounts and my experience it does a great job and looks the part too


----------



## skupples

I try to avoid monoblock at all costs, as I like using the same block as many times as possible. Only time they make sense is when buying M-ITX boards.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> STH10 has a cut out, at least mine does. Might be part of the ordering process, mine was acquired used.


Funny, I got mine used as well... I wonder if it is part of the 'Workstation Kit' that mine has. Come to think of it, that would make sense as you wouldn't want a big cutout beneath your workstation tray...

Do you mind if I ask what you paid for yours and if it included any extras/accessories? If you don't want to answer that no worries, I completely understand. 

I paid $530 (shipped) for mine, it does have about ten small holes drilled for mounting his res and pump, but nothing s sharpie couldn't handle sufficiently, and it included the workstation kit, the XXL window, 140mm radiator mounts (got lucky there), and vented panels throughout - I actually contacted CL just to see if they would either do a straight trade, or a discounted trade-in for the solid flex-Bay covers, I am torn between those, and installing a white piece of Plexi with some LED's behind it to give a nice, soft glow, already doing it to the top panel, since I DESPISE dust, and my area is FULL of it...

The only other thing I have considered buying for this case are casters, since it is a best to try and move without then. I currently have the casters from my previous case (Enermax Fulmo GT) zip-tied in place and they work great.

Along with the monoblock, I'll probably order y6t5 a couple more Noctua 140's, possibly a second 560mm rad, and a second 400mm res (unfortunately I did not include the height of the fittings in my reservoir measurement, so I need to drill a couple holes and do a 'bulkhead' mount on both of them for decent aesthetics - something I am terribly displeased with... Although I do think they will look absolutely fantastic if I can get it done right).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> I think the heat you're measuring at the ROG block is being transferred through the mobo. It's a board with planes in it (ie: solid copper layers) and it's very good at transferring heat. The things dumping heat into the board (VRM's mainly, CPU and Southbridge) if cooled via water block should reduce overall board temps.


That had occurred to me, but I forgot about the CU in the board...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Monoblocks aren't appealing to me. I think they're unattractive and bulky. I'd try and find a Black Edition RIVE block from EK and just use that, by all accounts and my experience it does a great job and looks the part too


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I try to avoid monoblock at all costs, as I like using the same block as many times as possible. Only time they make sense is when buying M-ITX boards.


I really would be fine with the 'standard' multi-block, but my issue with that is how terrible (I feel) the tubing looks... Some people get it to look good, and tubing color makes a huge difference, but I really think that the black tubing I am using (wanted white, but I paid $3 for 3M of Primoflex LRT) will look terrible with all of those short bends, as well, I currently have an XSPC Raystorm block, and EK/BP and XSPC do NOT look good together at all... Looks are moderately important to me, call me shallow, but I think most of us have some of that inside...

I was actually torn between getting a block for my 970 or the mobo, budget constraints and all, but once I realized that even during stress tests my 970 doesn't go over 64℃, with a 1,514MHz overclock and ~40mV overvolt, I don't particularly *need* a GPU block yet... I am excited to get the EK WF3 970 block though, but the efficiency of Maxwell, and the fantastic cooler on this card in particular almost make water cooling it pointless... It has crossed my mind to just skip the GPU this time around, my temps are already *well* within spec, indeed almost where my 670's were (@1,290MHz core/~55℃) liquid cooled.

One final thought, I am really considering using some white dye in my loop, but I have never read anybody with 'good', or ppositiveresults with any dyes, everything I have read tells me they gunk up, fall out of suspension, plug blocks and so on... I am just seeing only the negative stories? I mean, surely there is a good dye out there that will last six mobths to a year between cleanings... Right? I am hoping for a white fluid for my reservoirs, I don't much like the clear water only look...

As ever, help is fantastically appreciated! Thank you!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I try to avoid monoblock at all costs, as I like using the same block as many times as possible. Only time they make sense is when buying M-ITX boards.


Yep if your changing out CPUs regulary for benchmarking a monoblock would be a pain in the butt . 'Don't needed it fans do work as well'


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> ...I currently have an XSPC Raystorm block, and EK/BP and XSPC do NOT look good together at all... Looks are moderately important to me, call me shallow...
> 
> One final thought, I am really considering using some white dye in my loop, but I have never read anybody with 'good', or ppositiveresults with any dyes, everything I have read tells me they gunk up, fall out of suspension, plug blocks and so on... I am just seeing only the negative stories? I mean, surely there is a good dye out there that will last six mobths to a year between cleanings... Right? I am hoping for a white fluid for my reservoirs, I don't much like the clear water only look...
> 
> As ever, help is fantastically appreciated! Thank you!


You're shallow! lol

I ended up picking the XSPC set because I didn't feel like paying so much more for essentially the same thing in the EK set and with my setup I can't really see them anyway.

For the dye you're best bet is likely something like mayhem's pastel white. I can't speak to how well it actually holds up but it's supposed to last for three years.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Pre mixed coolant works just as well if not better ya know .....
Who cares what colour it is . Use diff color hose instead . Never had a prob with premix , keeps all of the inside of my copper blocks superclean and corrosion free too......
I also chuck 2 drops of detergent in as well to break up surface tension .... I think that's the correct terminology for it ......


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Funny, I got mine used as well... I wonder if it is part of the 'Workstation Kit' that mine has. Come to think of it, that would make sense as you wouldn't want a big cutout beneath your workstation... Do you mind if I ask what you paid for yours and if it included any extras? If you don't want to answer that no worries, I completely understand.
> 
> Mine included the workstation kit, the XXL window, 140mm radiator mounts (got lucky there), vented panels throughout - I actually contacted CL just to see if they would either do a straight trade, or a discounted trade-in for the solid flex-Bay covers, I am torn between those, and installing a white piece of Plexi with some LED's behind it to give a nice, soft glow, already doing it to the top panel, since I DESPISE dust, and my area is FULL of it...
> 
> The only other things I have considered buying for this case are casters, which I'll be ordering on Saturday, along with the monoblock, probably a couple more Noctua 140's, possibly a second 560mm rad, and a second 400mm res (unfortunately I did not include the height of the fittings in my reservoir measurement, so I need to drill a couple holes and do a 'bulkhead' mount on both of them for decent aesthetics - something I am terribly displeased with... Although I do think they will look absolutely fantastic if I can get it done right).
> That had occurred to me, but I forgot about the CU in the board...
> 
> I really would be fine with the 'standard' multi-block, but my issue with that is how terrible (I feel) the tubing looks... Some people get it to look good, and tubing color makes a huge difference, but I really think that the black tubing I am using (wanted white, but I paid $3 for 3M of Primoflex LRT) will look terrible with all of those short bends, as well, I currently have an XSPC Raystorm block, and EK/BP and XSPC do NOT look good together at all... Looks are moderately important to me, call me shallow, but I think most of us have some of that inside...
> 
> I was actually torn between getting a block for my 970 or the mobo, budget constraints and all, but once I realized that even during stress tests my 970 doesn't go over 64℃, with a 1,514MHz overclock and ~40mV overvolt, I don't particularly *need* a GPU block yet... I am excited to get the EK WF3 970 block though, but the efficiency of Maxwell, and the fantastic cooler on this card in particular almost make water cooling it pointless... It has crossed my mind to just skip the GPU this time around, my temps are already *well* within spec, indeed almost where my 670's were (@1,290MHz core/~55℃) liquid cooled.
> 
> One final thought, I am really considering using some white dye in my loop, but I have never read anybody with 'good', or ppositiveresults with any dyes, everything I have read tells me they gunk up, fall out of suspension, plug blocks and so on... I am just seeing only the negative stories? I mean, surely there is a good dye out there that will last six mobths to a year between cleanings... Right? I am hoping for a white fluid for my reservoirs, I don't much like the clear water only look...
> 
> As ever, help is fantastically appreciated! Thank you!






More than I should have, but it came with pretty much every accessory in the book. Put it this way, after the obscene price gouging on the shipping I paid $50 less than a stock, brand new unit, without upgrades, but all the upgrades made up for it.

I felt bad for the seller, as his local UPS charged him damn near $200 to ship it, so I reimbursed him about 75% of that, as we thought shipping wouldn't be more than $75-$100.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> You're shallow! lol
> 
> I ended up picking the XSPC set because I didn't feel like paying so much more for essentially the same thing in the EK set and with my setup I can't really see them anyway.
> 
> For the dye you're best bet is likely something like mayhem's pastel white. I can't speak to how well it actually holds up but it's supposed to last for three years.


If being aesthetically shallow is wrong, who wants to be right?!?! 

Does XSPC have a monoblock for it? I thought only EK and BpBP did... That could solve an issue if they do... I might be willing to deal with the tubing mess if it's cheaper...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Pre mixed coolant works just as well if not better ya know .....
> Who cares what colour it is . Use diff color hose instead . Never had a prob with premix , keeps all of the inside of my copper blocks superclean and corrosion free too......
> I also chuck 2 drops of detergent in as well to break up surface tension .... I think that's the correct terminology for it ......


I had not considered pre-mixed coolant, thanks for the tip... I'll have to check the cost, as I am not terribly fond of overpriced products, well, unnecessarily overpriced products anyway... I already have black tubing, I am more concerned with the two HUGE, 400mm reservoirs in my case that have clear fluid in them. Obviously if dye is that big of an issue I will just stick with water, but it isn't ideal, I think it looks terrible...

As for the surface tension/detergent treatment, is that just to prevent bubbles?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> More than I should have, but it came with pretty much every accessory in the book. Put it this way, after the obscene price gouging on the shipping I paid $50 less than a stock, brand new unit, without upgrades, but all the upgrades made up for it.
> 
> I felt bad for the seller, as his local UPS charged him damn near $200 to ship it, so I reimbursed him about 75% of that, as we thought shipping wouldn't be more than $75-$100.


Gotcha. That's not bad at all then. Happen to get any solid Flex-Bay covers you aren't using? Or casters... lol

I got lucky on mine also, I only paid $30 for shipping (half, total was $60 through UPS), after pricing it out, had I bought it new it would have been something close to $900!!! So I'm happy with it.


----------



## Ardi

I'm interested in buying this board. What's the latest Rev. of this motherboard?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> If being aesthetically shallow is wrong, who wants to be right?!?!
> 
> Does XSPC have a monoblock for it? I thought only EK and BpBP did... That could solve an issue if they do... I might be willing to deal with the tubing mess if it's cheaper...


You have a point!

I don't believe they make a monoblock but their dual block set is pretty cheap compared to EK's and BP's offerings and aside from only coming in delrin/copper seems to be made to the same quality.

For price comparison
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> I'm interested in buying this board. What's the latest Rev. of this motherboard?


I don't know if it has more than one revision, I'm fairly certain that the X79 platform was pretty close to EoL when this board came out.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> You have a point!
> 
> I don't believe they make a monoblock but their dual block set is pretty cheap compared to EK's and BP's offerings and aside from only coming in delrin/copper seems to be made to the same quality.
> 
> For price comparison


I was SHOCKED when I looked up that block right after you mentioned it. I know what I'll be getting now! Might even just get the block for my 970 at the same time...


----------



## reev3r

@skupples

I meant to ask, did your case come flat pack? I wonder if that is why it was so much, mine came exactly as it would new, thinking that a why shipping was 1/4 what yours was...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> @skupples
> 
> I meant to ask, did your case come flat pack? I wonder if that is why it was so much, mine came exactly as it would new, thinking that a why shipping was 1/4 what yours was...


nope, he shipped it assembled(which definitely jacked the pricing). It's partially as expensive as it was because it was shipped from Bumflip New York, where the closest other vendor is 30 miles away, and USPS doesn't handle packages this large. This also likely means that said UPS store only gets 1-2 pick ups a day, which makes space an extreme premium.

I still have the receipt around here somewhere.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I was SHOCKED when I looked up that block right after you mentioned it. I know what I'll be getting now! Might even just get the block for my 970 at the same time...


Yeah that was pretty much my reaction when I was picking which set to buy. I'm glad I helped


----------



## Ardi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I don't know if it has more than one revision, I'm fairly certain that the X79 platform was pretty close to EoL when this board came out.


Thanks SpecTRe-X for your reply.

There are more than one PCB revision for this motherboard. I'm just wondering what the latest PCB revision is:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1425853/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-the-ultimate-lga2011-motherboard-has-arrived/1580#post_21110045


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I don't know if it has more than one revision, I'm fairly certain that the X79 platform was pretty close to EoL when this board came out.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks SpecTRe-X for your reply.
> 
> There are more than one PCB revision for this motherboard. I'm just wondering what the latest PCB revision is:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1425853/asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-the-ultimate-lga2011-motherboard-has-arrived/1580#post_21110045
Click to expand...

The PCB and BIOS revisions posted by Raghar that you linked, are discussing changes made to the RIVBE prior to their release later that Nov 2013. Raghar and cadaveca had early release samples of this mobo before any of us could purchase it.

I'm unaware of any PCB revisions made to the RIVBE post-release. Not saying there haven't been any, but I've not seen it mentioned anywhere. The post you linked doesn't point to there having been any.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The PCB and BIOS revisions posted by Raghar that you linked, are discussing changes made to the RIVBE prior to their release later that Nov 2013. Raghar and cadaveca had early release samples of this mobo before any of us could purchase it.
> 
> I'm unaware of any PCB revisions made to the RIVBE post-release. Not saying there haven't been any, but I've not seen it mentioned anywhere. The post you linked doesn't point to there having been any.


doesn't seem ASUS cares enough about it to further tweak it from a hardware level.

it was kinda like, GOD DAMNIT, JUST GET IT OUT ALREADY, X79 BE DEAD YO.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> doesn't seem ASUS cares enough about it to further tweak it from a hardware level.
> 
> it was kinda like, GOD DAMNIT, JUST GET IT OUT ALREADY, X79 BE DEAD YO.


Yeah there have been BIOS updates for bugfixes, but I've not seen or heard of anything at the hardware level. Would be really surprising to me if ASUS or any mobo manufacturer was still that invested in this or any of their boards from anything but the newest platforms.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah there have been BIOS updates for bugfixes, but I've not seen or heard of anything at the hardware level. Would be really surprising to me if ASUS or any mobo manufacturer was still that invested in this or any of their boards from anything but the newest platforms.


from all the ASUS products I've owned, this one has easily received the least amount of attention.


----------



## reev3r

I am of the mindset, 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it...', I have never had a single problem with this board, in fact, it has been the most stable build I have had in fifteen years of building computers.

Are there any problems with the board that would actually require a full hardware revision/update...? I mean, considering the cost of such a venture I don't think any company would be too keen on investing the necessary resources in hardware changes if it can be avoided. Especially if a software update can resolve an issue. Granted, some issues *require* hardware changes in order to be resolved.

That being said, anybody care to give me info on any issues that may be full on hardware problems significant enough for a revision? I am very, very interested in knowing what problems exist, given my board has presented no issues.

Thank you!


----------



## skupples

definitely isn't an EVGA Dark, that's for sure.

the majority of issues seem to come from SB-E users & memory kit mixers.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Yup I'm still stable 4.6 @1.280v xmp 2133 goin on a year now


----------



## CryptiK

Yep from what I read before jumping on this mobo (very late) it seemed they'd sorted the hardware out well and truly with the RIVE, and this was the special edition aimed at Ivy-E and improving (at the hardware level) things like memory clocks, etc. The BE was the badass revision to the RIVE, so it makes sense if you look at it that way when we've seen few bios updates, and no subsequent mobo revisions. Of course though it was released very late in the X79 life cycle too so that may have played a part.

I got this board used but only run stock (not sure I beleive it, but that's what he said) and it's been perfect for me. Learned the bios pretty quick, got 4.4GHz stable in about an hour and have 4.5GHz dialled in now with ram at 1866 C9 (still need to tweak ram, but just spent the last few days rebuilding my rig into a new case with some new additions to my loop so I've been 'otherwise detained'.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Heres mine
http://valid.x86.fr/rtmeal


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Heres mine


Mine is similar; it's kind of funny how similar our systems are. You should push more voltage and get that higher clock, yo.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> definitely isn't an EVGA Dark, that's for sure.
> 
> the majority of issues seem to come from SB-E users & memory kit mixers.


Seems pretty astute.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> doesn't seem ASUS cares enough about it to further tweak it from a hardware level.
> 
> it was kinda like, GOD DAMNIT, JUST GET IT OUT ALREADY, X79 BE DEAD YO.


Like it was said above though, the BE was already the revision of the regular rampage and released very very late in x79.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> Mine is similar; it's kind of funny how similar our systems are. You should push more voltage and get that higher clock, yo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems pretty astute.


Okay
Last year


its a buggar to get 5 at that vcore LooooooL









Before the joys of o/c da Dram









Just now CPU-Z kept crashing and wont let me upload pic its in 4k


----------



## Ardi

Thanks everyone who replied to my revision number question. It's much appreciated.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Like it was said above though, the BE was already the revision of the regular rampage and released very very late in x79.


I'm very aware, many of us waited for this, by the skin of our teeth. Getting trolled by both ASUS and NCIX, at the same time. NCIX being the first retailer to take pre-orders, and the last retailer to actually ship them, which is quite entertaining, as their main (American) warehouse shares a corporate plaza w/ Newegg's main warehouse.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> This is completely irrelevant to the current discussion.
> 
> Whilst messing around with my old 'faulty' board, I notice there is a Mini-PCIe form-factor slot where the WIFI connection sits.
> I guess this would allow users to replace or upgrade the wireless board in the near future??
> 
> 
> 
> Opening the metal housing reveals a standard mini-card, mounted by two screws.


You know, I saw this, and at first I thought it was cool, but not of note...

However, upon further consideration, this thing is [email protected]$$!!! My only curiosity is if it some sort of proprietary integration, which would kind of suck, or if you can install ANY mini-PCIe device in here... If it is a standard Mini-PCIe slot then you should be able to install an SSD in there as well, granted you would either need to have a water block installed, or have implemented some sort of cooling mod yourself, but either way, it is still a fantastic thing...

Thank you for sharing this!

On that note, what is the problem with your board? Is it possible to do a warranty claim, or is it simply toast and outside the scope of a warranty? You also wrote 'faulty', I didn't know if that meant fully borked, or if it is just something specific that doesn't work...

I do hope that it is something you can easily get repaired...


----------



## delevic

Hi,

I have Rampage IV Black and 3930k. I overclocked my cpu at 5ghz on 1.44v LLC-extreme. Whena I start Linx after a certain time PC rapidly turns off ( no bsod). Max temp of hottest cpu core is 65c. My psu is CM1500w M2. I have two cm1500 , but the same happens. In bios I set everything on max. Disable overheat portections etc... I can not determine what the problem is... What do you think ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delevic*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have Rampage IV Black and 3930k. I overclocked my cpu at 5ghz on 1.44v LLC-extreme. Whena I start Linx after a certain time PC rapidly turns off ( no bsod). Max temp of hottest cpu core is 65c. My psu is CM1500w M2. I have two cm1500 , but the same happens. In bios I set everything on max. Disable overheat portections etc... I can not determine what the problem is... What do you think ?


Did you turn off surge protection in the bios ??
Are you running a dual psu cable or extensions ??
That can trip surge protection


----------



## delevic

Yes , I turned off surge protection. Cpu currnet capability- disabled , vrm otp- disabled too . Cpu pdc -extreme. I use only one psu. I replaced the power supply just for test. I just put temp. senosor in mb vrm, and notice that max temp of vrm is 76c. It makes no sense







I passed 3dmark11 and vantage on 5.5 ghz with CF 2x 7950. But not 15 min of linx at 4.9







No sign of instability. Gigaflops are almost identical Its just turns off suddenly


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> ...granted you would either need to have a water block installed, or have implemented some sort of cooling mod yourself..


You mean for the VRMs, right?

I wonder if anyone has been brave enough to test out a mini ssd in there. I know the bios has switches to turn off the wifi/blutooth functionality but I don't know if it is simply a software equivalent of the hardware one for the pcie 16 slots or a option to turn off the control device itself. Though if it's the latter then you'd also have to know if that control device is in the wifi card or on the board itself, right?


----------



## Raghar

What BIOS are you using?


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delevic*
> 
> Yes , I turned off surge protection. Cpu currnet capability- disabled , vrm otp- disabled too . Cpu pdc -extreme. I use only one psu. I replaced the power supply just for test. I just put temp. senosor in mb vrm, and notice that max temp of vrm is 76c. It makes no sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I passed 3dmark11 and vantage on 5.5 ghz with CF 2x 7950. But not 15 min of linx at 4.9
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No sign of instability. Gigaflops are almost identical Its just turns off suddenly


try setting cpu current capability to 170% or whatever the max is and try again.

What bios are you on?


----------



## delevic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> try setting cpu current capability to 170% or whatever the max is and try again.
> 
> What bios are you on?


I tried it at 180%, but it happened again. Bios is 0701

I tried it again to put cpu cc to 180% , and pc has shutdown after a few seconds







Is it possible that VRM are not able to hold 3930k at 4.9GHz?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I try to avoid monoblock at all costs, as I like using the same block as many times as possible. Only time they make sense is when buying M-ITX boards.


=(
qq

I have changed mine out several times and gotten pretty comfortable with it. I've taken it apart several times too. It's not really _that_ bad. Putting on a Raystorm is probably equally annoying.









Plus:


----------



## delevic




----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> You mean for the VRMs, right?
> 
> I wonder if anyone has been brave enough to test out a mini ssd in there. I know the bios has switches to turn off the wifi/blutooth functionality but I don't know if it is simply a software equivalent of the hardware one for the pcie 16 slots or a option to turn off the control device itself. Though if it's the latter then you'd also have to know if that control device is in the wifi card or on the board itself, right?


Yeah, the VRM's, since the heatpipe is connected over to that block, and although you *could* mod it and bend the heatpipe, I don't think anybody would voluntarily do so... lol

Personally, I would happily test out an SSD in it! If someone has a functional SSD they want to send on over, I am pretty confident that it is able to rock any mini-PCIe device in there, I can't imagine Asus going through the effort, and additional cost of making it proprietary. Especially given that the wireless card is just a standard mini-PCIe card, same mounting holes and everything, and I bet you could probably buy the exact same card from Broadcom if you knew the part number, and given that the assembly is two separate devices, in terms of the radio, and how it is treated by Windows, I've got a good feeling it is standard, and that there is just a relay, or software switch that the BIOS control does, or maybe it really just hides it from Windows, and simply disables the detection of it...

On that note, the only person I, personally, am aware of that might have some insight into this is @[email protected]... He seems to have superknowledge of all things Asus... Which, well... Is as it should be I suspect... Hopefully he is able to sort it out...

Thanks in advance!


----------



## electro2u

He's super knowledgeable and very professional usually but we got into it once about haswell voltage power saving. He didn't know you can get voltage power saving with a manual Vcore set, argued with me about it til I showed him a screenshot of ai suite that proved it. Then he called it an exploit and jkramp sent me a pm saying he was going to have Intel remove the exploit. It's of course not an exploit and now a year later everyone uses that trick if their board supports the capability and they know about it.


----------



## skupples

the calling intel bit, that made me lol.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I initially had not even considered that I will need to remove that beautiful I/O sink, and now I am bummed out that I either need to do a permamod, or I have to live without that gorgeous piece of aluminum... Sad day...


If you just heat the I/O sink portion with a propane blowtorch you can easily remove the pipe from it without damaging the array. If you ever need to reassemble it just smear some TIM onto the pipe and carefully slide/twist it back in. The bonding resin is sanded off with 320 grit easily enough


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Darlene was the first to remove the heatpipe, and gave a lil guide ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For you guys wanting to be able to use the I/O heatsink on the RIVBE with an EK chipset / mosfet block, but did not want to cut the heatpipe, . . . .
> 
> I've been able to successfully remove the heatpipe, so you can too . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think I was the first one to successfully separate the I/O heatsink from the heat pipe.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/55910#post_21431710
> 
> I used a propane torch and it took about 10 minutes of heating the heatsink to get it to expand enough and melt the thermal glue to ease the heatpipe out.
> 
> Somewhat later, someone else managed to do it with a 2KW heat gun.
> 
> Darlene


----------



## skupples

2KW sounds about right, my lil $10 500W heat gun did absolutely nothing besides superheat my garage.


----------



## electro2u

The gentleman I traded my stock HS/I/O assembly to so he could RMA his board plastidipped his I/O cover to make it darker black. Looks really nice I think.


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> You know, I saw this, and at first I thought it was cool, but not of note...
> 
> However, upon further consideration, this thing is [email protected]$$!!! My only curiosity is if it some sort of proprietary integration, which would kind of suck, or if you can install ANY mini-PCIe device in here... If it is a standard Mini-PCIe slot then you should be able to install an SSD in there as well, granted you would either need to have a water block installed, or have implemented some sort of cooling mod yourself, but either way, it is still a fantastic thing...
> 
> Thank you for sharing this!
> 
> On that note, what is the problem with your board? Is it possible to do a warranty claim, or is it simply toast and outside the scope of a warranty? You also wrote 'faulty', I didn't know if that meant fully borked, or if it is just something specific that doesn't work...
> 
> I do hope that it is something you can easily get repaired...


From my understanding, the wireless Mini-PCIe slots may share the same form-factor as the mSATA SSD's but electrically they're different (link).

My old board is weird... During the summer months it'll work faultless for months and months without any system halts, restarts or random shutdowns. Then the cold winter came and the thing kept dying. I initially thought my overclock was to blame, I'm told a change in season can sometimes cause systems to become unstable. So i took the board to "stock" with default everything, sync cores and realized it did the same regardless.

After much tinkering around, I though the CPU and memory was to blame.

Throw them into a pre-production MSI X79A-GD65 (8D) running the earliest possible firmware and ran additional tests. Guess what? It's not the CPU or memory that's buggered. So as to what's wrong with the board? Well your guess is as good as mine. I can only imagine there's some dry joint somewhere.. or there's a failing component? I don't know. After six months of ownership, I swapped b*tch out!

I won't be making any warranty claims as my supplier has offered an direct exchange/replacement. My new board, it's going through some soak tests, as if it's a new system. I really need to know is that system reliable 24/7 before I'm gonna use it for any thing. Last thing I want is to start working on a project then lose work.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> From my understanding, the wireless Mini-PCIe slots may share the same form-factor as the mSATA SSD's but electrically they're different (link).
> 
> My old board is weird... During the summer months it'll work faultless for months and months without any system halts, restarts or random shutdowns. Then the cold winter came and the thing kept dying. I initially thought my overclock was to blame, I'm told a change in season can sometimes cause systems to become unstable. So i took the board to "stock" with default everything, sync cores and realized it did the same regardless.
> 
> After much tinkering around, I though the CPU and memory was to blame.
> 
> Throw them into a pre-production MSI X79A-GD65 (8D) running the earliest possible firmware and ran additional tests. Guess what? It's not the CPU or memory that's buggered. So as to what's wrong with the board? Well your guess is as good as mine. I can only imagine there's some dry joint somewhere.. or there's a failing component? I don't know. After six months of ownership, I swapped b*tch out!
> 
> I won't be making any warranty claims as my supplier has offered an direct exchange/replacement. My new board, it's going through some soak tests, as if it's a new system. I really need to know is that system reliable 24/7 before I'm gonna use it for any thing. Last thing I want is to start working on a project then lose work.


Yeah, it turns out that it probably will not work, as it needs a dedicated data connection to the SATA controller for it to work. That is stinkumwitz!

As for your board, what the crap? I have not experienced such an issue, nor heard of it in twenty years of computering, terribly sorry man. Just glad you have a replacement on the way.


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delevic*
> 
> I tried it at 180%, but it happened again. Bios is 0701
> 
> I tried it again to put cpu cc to 180% , and pc has shutdown after a few seconds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible that VRM are not able to hold 3930k at 4.9GHz?


That sounds like temp possibly tripping it if you've disabled current sensing. Have you tried changing T.Probe to the other option so that it ignores VRM temps to test? Be careful though!


----------



## [email protected]

As I said before its an exploit. You need to understand what the vid ramp times require. The vrm cannot be guaranteed to ramp from low to high voltage without some hold time that allows vcc to settle before load is applied. The laws of physics are not that flexible.









I'm glad you have turned over a new leaf.


----------



## delevic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> That sounds like temp possibly tripping it if you've disabled current sensing. Have you tried changing T.Probe to the other option so that it ignores VRM temps to test? Be careful though!


Yes. I tried , but same happens. Even on def settings its shut down







probably vrm is defective. I have warranty.. Worst thing is that they dont have new replacement. I can take rampage V or money . But with the rampage v I must buy new cpu and ram...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delevic*
> 
> I tried it at 180%, but it happened again. Bios is 0701
> 
> I tried it again to put cpu cc to 180% , and pc has shutdown after a few seconds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible that VRM are not able to hold 3930k at 4.9GHz?


VRMs will easy do [email protected]400 + with SB-E silicon no problem with some kind of active cooling . Fan (s) on vrm heatsink and h'sinks on vrm back plate .... or am I missing something here ?? Do you have another CPU to test ??
But I found that SB-E requires moar vcore and Vscca ( than I am comfortable with ) on BE (ivy-e bios) than RIVE . So I grabbed 4960x and its been great , just not the clocks I was hoping to achieve , but that IMC is AWESOME


----------



## reev3r

Wow you guys, I have never wanted to unsubscribe from a forum on here, but you have succeedisucceeded in finding the necessary motivation for me to bail...

WELL DONE!


----------



## delevic

VRM is obviously defective..


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delevic*
> 
> Yes. I tried , but same happens. Even on def settings its shut down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> probably vrm is defective. I have warranty.. Worst thing is that they dont have new replacement. I can take rampage V or money . But with the rampage v I must buy new cpu and ram...


Yeah sounds like it mate, the board should easily hold those clocks.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delevic*
> 
> Yes. I tried , but same happens. Even on def settings its shut down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> probably vrm is defective. I have warranty.. Worst thing is that they dont have new replacement. I can take rampage V or money . But with the rampage v I must buy new cpu and ram...


I would dance a jig if i was offered a R5E as a replacement ..... But i have spare systems though i could use till i gots ram and cpu......


----------



## delevic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I would dance a jig if i was offered a R5E as a replacement ..... But i have spare systems though i could use till i gots ram and cpu......


I don't have it. I sold out everything







R5E and RIVB cost the same.... The biggest problem is to find a haswel-e cpu with a good OC potential.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> VRMs will easy do [email protected] + with SB-E silicon no problem with some kind of active cooling . Fan (s) on vrm heatsink and h'sinks on vrm back plate .... or am I missing something here ?? Do you have another CPU to test ??
> But I found that SB-E requires moar vcore and Vscca ( than I am comfortable with ) on BE (ivy-e bios) than RIVE . So I grabbed 4960x and its been great , just not the clocks I was hoping to achieve , but that IMC is AWESOME


getting my 3930k to play nice with my 2400mhz Trident X 32GB kit was a MAJOR pain in the ass, and required way more voltage than I wanted to give it for 24/7 settings,.

so, I got a 4930k instead, then found out intel wouldn't allow a replacement of the 3930k due to the IHS markings missing. wish they could take the numbers from the PCB


----------



## 66racer

Thread cleaned.

Guys keep it constructive and keep conversations from other forum site members separate from OCN.

Debate is ok but being disrespectful to others is not.

Have fun


----------



## ledzepp3

I've tried posting other actual threads but have gotten no responses. I'm at the end of my chain with this board despite the fact that I love it. I get random black screens which are total shutdowns all the time. No blue screen errors at all, so I have reason to believe that my copy of W8.1 is not causing the issue. My power supply is also brand new from Silverstone's RMA department (it's a Strider 1000G Evolution). This only occurs when the system is under load, and it doesn't matter if my graphics cards or my CPU is under load. The entire rig ran more than fine for 6 months, mostly running [email protected] work units without a single issue. Also played all games I threw at it without a single issue. Every driver and possible update has been applied, and I've also tried backdating the BIOS and the drivers to see if there was a previous version that would work.

My rig is currently comprised of:
Intel i7 3930K (was at 4.4GHz, 1.4V) but now runs at stock.
Asus Rampage IV Black Edition (obviously)
(X2) Sapphire Radeon R9-290X's (they were at 1100 core 1320 memory, +25 core voltage) but they now run at stock.
(X2) Samsung 840 EVO 250GB SSDs not in any RAID configuration.
Asus Radir 240GB PCI SSD

When this first started happening again with a new PSU, I tried to run IBT to isolate if it was my CPU or not. The weird thing is that my rig will only pass if more than 2GB of my 16GB of memory is used. Otherwise it'll either black screen shut down on me or give me the "Your rig is unstable" messages. As of now, everything is back to the stock settings and I'm still getting crashes and a boot loop when I shut it down. It'll stay off for a few seconds, and then reboot itself. _Please help_.

-Zepp


----------



## electro2u

The boot loop is likely just RAM training. How many boots?

I would be suspicious of the RAM settings. I would keep trying to replicate the IBT error with less than 2GB while loosening the primary/secondary timings and see if I made any progress that way.

Is it a matched 4x4GB kit? Like they all came in the same package?

Interesting that all was well for 6 months, perhaps the Integrated Memory Controller has degraded a bit.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The boot loop is likely just RAM training. How many boots?
> 
> I would be suspicious of the RAM settings. I would keep trying to replicate the IBT error with less than 2GB while loosening the primary/secondary timings and see if I made any progress that way.
> 
> Is it a matched 4x4GB kit? Like they all came in the same package?
> 
> Interesting that all was well for 6 months, perhaps the Integrated Memory Controller has degraded a bit.


sounds like my 3930k.

2133 / 4.8 for 6 months, then boom one day she went nuts, said screw it & got a 4930k.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The boot loop is likely just RAM training. How many boots?
> 
> I would be suspicious of the RAM settings. I would keep trying to replicate the IBT error with less than 2GB while loosening the primary/secondary timings and see if I made any progress that way.
> 
> Is it a matched 4x4GB kit? Like they all came in the same package?
> 
> Interesting that all was well for 6 months, perhaps the Integrated Memory Controller has degraded a bit.


The kit is unfortunately not matched which could be the problem. I'll try loosening up the timings later to see if that'll fix it. I agree that it's rather interesting how it operated perfectly fine for six months prior to this. I thought it was the power supply, but that's fortunately not the issue. Thank you for the advice, and if it doesn't work then I suppose it's time for a 4930K!

-Zepp


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Sandybee + Ivybee bios = Borked


----------



## CryptiK

Doing some ram testing. Running stable at 2400 10-12-12-31 CR1 (16gb kit) with stock (1.05v) VTT and 1.05v VCCSA (up from 0.95v stock, tried 1.00v but was unstable). How does that sound?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Ram benefits from vccsa voltag3


----------



## ledzepp3

Loosened up the timings and everything's running just as it should


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I am planning to try again with my Dominator Platinums either today or tomorrow, will do 125 strap so that my CPU come to 4675 Mhz and 2333 Mhz, which timings should I go for at 2333 Mhz?

Should I use timings for 2133 Mhz or 2400 Mhz? I guess I will try the stock timings first to see if that works, last time I tried the Platinums the 2333 Mhz was the closest I came to stable then. Any way to test stability for RAM? P95 was fully stable last time (two hours +), but still stuttered in games ... so any other suggestions?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Try these timings but at CL 11 and 1.25VTT and VSCCA and 1.85v on the DRAM

You will have to have a good look at it


----------



## CryptiK

my mobo refuses to POST with any settings on the 125 strap. It's absolutely useless.


----------



## clayer

hi,
here's the story just completed new wc set up put old ram back in 4x4 16gb teamgroup xtreem in bios only showing 12gb and windows i thought maybe id damaged a stick ive purchased new ram to match my new build 4x4 16gb 2400 kingston hyperx savage installed same as before only showing 12gb im using latest bios cleared cmos also fresh install windows 7 ultimate, found in bios slot c1 reads abnormal witch is slot 8 as manual for quad slot 1,3,6,8 ive cleaned out slot and checked for any visible damage nothing noticeable,

is it possible to use slots 2,4,5,7 i have tried this and cannot boot just get alarm maybe there is a way to implement this if anyone knows as im very disappointed in dropping to 12gb after an upgrade and cosmetically it looks odd to have a stick missing.

any help would be greatly received

thanks


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> my mobo refuses to POST with any settings on the 125 strap. It's absolutely useless.


Don't understand that mate , that's usually a gigabyte UP4 issue from crap bios . Maybe bios reflash time . Or borked CPU
bent cpu pins ?
Weird probs popping up here lately


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi,
> here's the story just completed new wc set up put old ram back in 4x4 16gb teamgroup xtreem in bios only showing 12gb and windows i thought maybe id damaged a stick ive purchased new ram to match my new build 4x4 16gb 2400 kingston hyperx savage installed same as before only showing 12gb im using latest bios cleared cmos also fresh install windows 7 ultimate, found in bios slot c1 reads abnormal witch is slot 8 as manual for quad slot 1,3,6,8 ive cleaned out slot and checked for any visible damage nothing noticeable,
> 
> is it possible to use slots 2,4,5,7 i have tried this and cannot boot just get alarm maybe there is a way to implement this if anyone knows as im very disappointed in dropping to 12gb after an upgrade and cosmetically it looks odd to have a stick missing.
> 
> any help would be greatly received
> 
> thanks


Its running on Triple channel . Try re-seating them again or could be a mismatch .........


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Don't understand that mate , that's usually a gigabyte UP4 issue from crap bios . Maybe bios reflash time . Or borked CPU
> 
> Weird probs popping up here lately











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi,
> is it possible to use slots 2,4,5,7 i have tried this and cannot boot just get alarm maybe there is a way to implement this if anyone knows as im very disappointed in dropping to 12gb after an upgrade and cosmetically it looks odd to have a stick missing.
> 
> any help would be greatly received
> 
> thanks


Must use the outside slot pairs with four sticks. is this @ 2400 MHz, or 1333 MHz? If it works fine @ 1333, you may need ot re-seat CPU and check socket pins. IF using waterblock, it's possible twist from block or un-even pressure is at fault.

I'm still running 2800 MHz rams and 4725 on PCU with 131.25 BCLK without any problems at all, but I really like X99 better than X79. Now that I am back in classes and still have reviews to do, I'm not too eager to do a platform swap and OS install; might just have to build a whole new rig. I've been watching what PSUs others have been using with this board though... gonna have to find another thermaltake 1275 since this one has done so well for me.

I'm waiting to see what this board does with GTX980s, though. Been holding off buying a couple, getting kind of hard to say no. Maybe tax time will be nice to me.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadaveca*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Must use the outside slot pairs with four sticks.


This is slightly vague but correct.








As shown above it is, from left to right 1,3,6,8


----------



## clayer

hi the picture above does say recommended slots which is what ive always used but it does go on to say in small print you may use either the black or the grey but recommend black for compatibility is anyone out there able to try the other 4 slots and get to windows,
this ram is a replacement of my original which still had same problems,
everything else is running smooth oc 4.4 xmp 2400 and running sweet.
it may be to do with waterblock as stated above,
my only other option is to buy 2x 8gb which does not use slot 8 dual channel
will i see a decrease by going to dual from quad well atm im running tri.
i have emailed asus for support on this no reply as yet.
thanks


----------



## electro2u

I've had my ram pretty crooked on this board, 4x8gb 32 total of unmatched ram kits and only way to get it to be happy at 2400 for me is to defeat XMP, ramp ram volts to 1.67v and lightly loosen timings. I do see now you aren't even posting but I would be surprised if it was because of ram positioning. I can't test for you unfortunately but you can disable ram slots from the Bios much like pcie slots.

I have run dual channel ram on it before and the performance loss is hardly worth mention.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi the picture above does say recommended slots which is what ive always used but it does go on to say in small print you may use either the black or the grey but recommend black for compatibility is anyone out there able to try the other 4 slots and get to windows,
> this ram is a replacement of my original which still had same problems,
> everything else is running smooth oc 4.4 xmp 2400 and running sweet.
> it may be to do with waterblock as stated above,
> my only other option is to buy 2x 8gb which does not use slot 8 dual channel
> will i see a decrease by going to dual from quad well atm im running tri.
> i have emailed asus for support on this no reply as yet.
> thanks


Grey first ...... A1 B1 D1 C1


----------



## electro2u

I was thinking he is saying he has it in the correct configuration and it won't post. So he's wondering if anyone can test the other way before setting up the blocks again. I would guess his setup was sort of contingent on using the blocks due to precut tubing. Lots of guessing on my part.

Edit: doh I see the full post now. It might need to be 1,3, 5,7


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Don't understand that mate , that's usually a gigabyte UP4 issue from crap bios . Maybe bios reflash time . Or borked CPU
> bent cpu pins ?
> Weird probs popping up here lately


Nope CPU is fine, no bent pins. Runs perfectly on 100 strap, cannot get it to post using 125 or 166 strap. on 0701 so latest bios...weird yes


----------



## skupples

There's a beta bios after 0701


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Nope CPU is fine, no bent pins. Runs perfectly on 100 strap, cannot get it to post using 125 or 166 strap. on 0701 so latest bios...weird yes


My 4960X doesn't post either on 125 strap. Never bothered playing much with the strap though. Only once when I briefly had a i7 3820. In my case 125 strap wouldn't benefit anything anyway, I'm stuck to max fully stable 4.5 GHz on my 4960X.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Nope CPU is fine, no bent pins. Runs perfectly on 100 strap, cannot get it to post using 125 or 166 strap. on 0701 so latest bios...weird yes


Have you lowered multiplier? CPU doesn't post on 5GHz. True story.


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> My 4960X doesn't post either on 125 strap. Never bothered playing much with the strap though. Only once when I briefly had a i7 3820. In my case 125 strap wouldn't benefit anything anyway, I'm stuck to max fully stable 4.5 GHz on my 4960X.


Maybe it's a 4960X thing then? Seems odd though. What about the 166 strap? I mean I full stable at 4.5GHz @ 1.296v and ram at 2400MHz CL10 @ 1.65vdimm and 1.05v VCCSA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Have you lowered multiplier? CPU doesn't post on 5GHz. True story.


Yep tried low multi with cpu speeds under 4.5ghz with no luck. Just turns on and off like 20 times and never posts.


----------



## Kimir

start over from clear cmos, set manual core voltage and make sure of the ram frequency set, that are the couple reason it would not work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Have you lowered multiplier? CPU doesn't post on 5GHz. True story.


Depend on the CPU, I did but at 6Ghz by mistake once.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> My 4960X doesn't post either on 125 strap. Never bothered playing much with the strap though. Only once when I briefly had a i7 3820. In my case 125 strap wouldn't benefit anything anyway, I'm stuck to max fully stable 4.5 GHz on my 4960X.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Maybe it's a 4960X thing then? Seems odd though. What about the 166 strap? I mean I full stable at 4.5GHz @ 1.296v and ram at 2400MHz CL10 @ 1.65vdimm and 1.05v VCCSA
> Yep tried low multi with cpu speeds under 4.5ghz with no luck. Just turns on and off like 20 times and never posts.
Click to expand...

You guys have a setting wrong fer sure .
Maybe









My 4960x will do 2800+ on da ram and BLCK up to 193mhz . I run dom plats 2666 CL 11 on XMP to get 125 strap . Well , it wont do 2666 unless its 125mhz for XMP . I ram up the multi or blck to access 2800 dram .









http://valid.x86.fr/lndd65

http://valid.x86.fr/qg66g8
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Have you lowered multiplier? CPU doesn't post on 5GHz. True story.


I just got 5 from mine .

http://valid.canardpc.com/efa6a9
You need extreme cooling to get it to run at 5 . DICE or LN2 for my sample


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi the picture above does say recommended slots which is what ive always used but it does go on to say in small print you may use either the black or the grey but recommend black for compatibility is anyone out there able to try the other 4 slots and get to windows,
> this ram is a replacement of my original which still had same problems,
> everything else is running smooth oc 4.4 xmp 2400 and running sweet.
> it may be to do with waterblock as stated above,
> my only other option is to buy 2x 8gb which does not use slot 8 dual channel
> will i see a decrease by going to dual from quad well atm im running tri.
> i have emailed asus for support on this no reply as yet.
> thanks


if 2400 is where the problem appears, you need to increase VCCSA. 2400 is the maximum memory multi, and can be very hard to get stable.


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> start over from clear cmos, set manual core voltage and make sure of the ram frequency set, that are the couple reason it would not work.
> Depend on the CPU, I did but at 6Ghz by mistake once.


I did, everything is set manually basically. I've been overclocking for 15 years now and used to competitively bench subzero, I'm not a noob, it just refuses to POST on that strap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> You guys have a setting wrong fer sure .
> Maybe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 4960x will do 2800+ on da ram and BLCK up to 193mhz . I run dom plats 2666 CL 11 on XMP to get 125 strap . Well , it wont do 2666 unless its 125mhz for XMP . I ram up the multi or blck to access 2800 dram .


Not that I can see man, this bios isn't complex like an old DFI bios. most stuff is set manually, tried many combos and nope, no post on 125 strap.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> I did, everything is set manually basically. I've been overclocking for 15 years now and used to competitively bench subzero, I'm not a noob, it just refuses to POST on that strap.
> Not that I can see man, this bios isn't complex like an old DFI bios. most stuff is set manually, tried many combos and nope, no post on 125 strap.


Yeah I know you've been around mate ,








What about the other preset blck settings ?
Also whats the batch no for your sample ??
Try it on another board , do you have another x79 mobo that's not a gigabyte ??
Ebay it , get another chip perhaps ??
Preaching to the choir ........

For me its bad enough I cant get a 'bench stable' LoooL 5gigs so no 125 strap would def do my head in for a x chip . Pretty much stopped me from competitive benching .
Its possible that its got a Golden IMC instead
Damn you intel , damn you









:


----------



## CryptiK

Heh would you believe it I cannot recall the batch number. Got the box but when i searched didn't really find anything positive or negative about this batch. I've tried 125 strap and 166 strap, different ram and cpu speeds within each, different bclk etc, nothing just boot cycles endlessly. Stable as though on the 100 strap. Really a head scratcher. I'm not ebaying it just yet, although I've had guys on OCAU make me offers for it already haha. Might tempt me to move to X99 and a 5960X...but I literally haven't even finished building this PC and didn't really want to pull it down for a reason like this when it's actually fine for what I want it for.

I might DL the beta 801 bios and see if it makes any difference, might try the older ones too. I don't have another Ivy or X79, I came from X58 and this is all I've got after consolidating so I can't test different combos.

This IMC seems pretty solid too, 2400 CL10 1T stable @ 1.05 VCCSA, stock 1.05 VTT


----------



## skupples

That's crazy even my dinky 3930k would happily strap to 125 on this board.


----------



## Kimir

Borked bios perhaps. But I guess you already tried the 2nd one and/or re-flashed the one used.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Heh would you believe it I cannot recall the batch number. Got the box but when i searched didn't really find anything positive or negative about this batch. I've tried 125 strap and 166 strap, different ram and cpu speeds within each, different bclk etc, nothing just boot cycles endlessly. Stable as though on the 100 strap. Really a head scratcher. I'm not ebaying it just yet, although I've had guys on OCAU make me offers for it already haha. Might tempt me to move to X99 and a 5960X...but I literally haven't even finished building this PC and didn't really want to pull it down for a reason like this when it's actually fine for what I want it for.
> 
> I might DL the beta 801 bios and see if it makes any difference, might try the older ones too. I don't have another Ivy or X79, I came from X58 and this is all I've got after consolidating so I can't test different combos.
> 
> This IMC seems pretty solid too, 2400 CL10 1T stable @ 1.05 VCCSA, stock 1.05 VTT


As long as your happy ........
[email protected] for VSCCA is very nice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That's crazy even my dinky 3930k would happily strap to 125 on this board.


I just don't understand WHY ??

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Borked bios perhaps. But I guess you already tried the 2nd one and/or re-flashed the one used.


Borked bios ........ on 125 strap only ??????
Sounds so much like a Gigabyte UP4 bios


----------



## reev3r

Alright, perhaps someone can help me out...

I installed water blocks on my board last night, and got everything installed and booted up, got into Windows just fine, but was experiencing an odd issue where I could not right click the start menu. So I restarted and walked away, when I came back my system was on, but unresponunresponsive with both screens black.

Upon inspection I found the CPU error LED lit, and a code of 00. I have done every bit of troubleshooting I can think of, unfortunately I decided not to pull it all apart for a second time, I wanted to calm down and think about it before proceeding. My next consideration is to remove the blocks and put the stock unit back on and see if maybe something is amiss there...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Alright, perhaps someone can help me out...
> 
> I installed water blocks on my board last night, and got everything installed and booted up, got into Windows just fine, but was experiencing an odd issue where I could not right click the start menu. So I restarted and walked away, when I came back my system was on, but unresponunresponsive with both screens black.
> 
> Upon inspection I found the CPU error LED lit, and a code of 00. I have done every bit of troubleshooting I can think of, unfortunately I decided not to pull it all apart for a second time, I wanted to calm down and think about it before proceeding. My next consideration is to remove the blocks and put the stock unit back on and see if maybe something is amiss there...


Sorry to hear about this... if I may ask, what blocks were installed? A monoblock or a cpu block? Some RAM blocks? If it;s RAM blocks I would guess they are twerked a little...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Sorry to hear about this... if I may ask, what blocks were installed? A monoblock or a cpu block? Some RAM blocks? If it;s RAM blocks I would guess they are twerked a little...


Apologies, XSPC motherboard blocks.


----------



## reev3r

I meant to ask in my first post, unfortunately I do not have any other 2011 parts, so I am unable to diagnose if it is the board or CPU, nor am I amble to afford anything for testing...

So I wanted to ask if perhaps anybody has a board/CPU they can loan out... I know it is asking a lot, but I figure if someone has an engineering sample or something of the like. I will pay for shipping both ways, and if anything should happen I will gladly replace it/pay you back.

Just as a sort of reassurance, I have been building computers for going on twenty years and have only had a single problem, but that was back in 2002... Not a problem since, short of this issue...

Figured it's work a shot to ask.


----------



## skupples

this is why you should ALWAYS dry run your system before letting the mobo & everything else turn on.

Just jump the PSU, & make sure everything is snug. No leaks, no squeaks, & all that...

Still, it kinda sounds like a bent pin









sorry, only own the 4930k & R4BE, for my 2011 stash. 3930k slipped on Ebay for the cheap after intel shafted me on the tuning plan.

-intel, since you're TOTALLY here! you should require the information on the IHS to buy the tuning plan, if it's required to cash in the tuning plan. Also, I will get my $37.50 back, as you were unable to render services, thus a refund is due, and I'm sure PayPal or my Bank will agree.







!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

If it was dirty pins it would down clock on a over clock . But 00 = CPU is Borking up a tad ...... Or dead ..... Sorry for your loss . Only kidding , bent pin (s)


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> -intel, since you're TOTALLY here! you should require the information on the IHS to buy the tuning plan, if it's required to cash in the tuning plan. Also, I will get my $37.50 back, as you were unable to render services, thus a refund is due, and I'm sure PayPal or my Bank will agree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


If it's that big a deal you think they would etch the SN into the side of the heatspreader.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> this is why you should ALWAYS dry run your system before letting the mobo & everything else turn on.
> 
> Just jump the PSU, & make sure everything is snug. No leaks, no squeaks, & all that...
> 
> Still, it kinda sounds like a bent pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry, only own the 4930k & R4BE, for my 2011 stash. 3930k slipped on Ebay for the cheap after intel shafted me on the tuning plan.
> 
> -intel, since you're TOTALLY here! you should require the information on the IHS to buy the tuning plan, if it's required to cash in the tuning plan. Also, I will get my $37.50 back, as you were unable to render services, thus a refund is due, and I'm sure PayPal or my Bank will agree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


I have had my system running for well over a year. So the 'dry test' has been running for a very long time. 

As for the troubleshooting tips, that's been done many times. 

I can't imagine it is a bent pin, since I installed the CPU over six months ago and have not removed it since.

I do thank you greatly for your thoughts and time though. 

That being said, I accept that it could be anything at this point, but I can't do much more in the way of diagnostics without a spare of some sort or another. :-(


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If it's that big a deal you think they would etch the SN into the side of the heatspreader.


it just shows that the tuning plan is a farse

the guy claimed that the IHS markings are "Deeply engraved into the heat spreader of the CPU, and can only be removed via sanding the spreader, which voids warranty"

oh really? then why did a light brushing of scotchbright completely remove them?!

I mean come on man, the tuning plan supposedly exists to protect CPUs that are taken out of spec. I bought it so that I wouldn't have to LIE in the off chance of RMA, and now they're telling me that they don't think they can even refund the $37.50.

a fat ass joke.

"the CPU may be counterfeit"

really? counterfeit 3930k? first i've ever heard of those, I know China is god tier @ these kinds of things but damn...

The PCB has a barcode type deal, AND a long serial number type deal, total BS that they can't validate off of that information.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I have had my system running for well over a year. So the 'dry test' has been running for a very long time.
> 
> As for the troubleshooting tips, that's been done many times.
> 
> I can't imagine it is a bent pin, since I installed the CPU over six months ago and have not removed it since.
> 
> I do thank you greatly for your thoughts and time though.
> 
> That being said, I accept that it could be anything at this point, but I can't do much more in the way of diagnostics without a spare of some sort or another. :-(


bad luck then, check memory to make sure they aren't tweaked.

I slightly bumped one of my sticks the other day, and my entire system shut off. I'm lucky I didn't blow up the entire stick, me thinks.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

@reev3r

When you bolted on the VRM block you left the screws a little loose, right? If you tighten them all the way you'll bend the VRM area pretty badly. I'd look there and make sure there isn't any bending.


----------



## CryptiK

Sounds like overtightening and mobo flexing to me. Or possibly a short, but I'd expect that to be an immediate effect not what you're seeing.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I have had my system running for well over a year. So the 'dry test' has been running for a very long time.
> 
> As for the troubleshooting tips, that's been done many times.
> 
> I can't imagine it is a bent pin, since I installed the CPU over six months ago and have not removed it since.
> 
> I do thank you greatly for your thoughts and time though.
> 
> That being said, I accept that it could be anything at this point, but I can't do much more in the way of diagnostics without a spare of some sort or another. :-(


My suspicion is that nothing is damaged and the blocks need to be reseated. Was this full VRM and PCH chip on the lower portion? It's possible the board will need an RMA but you'll likely be back up and running either way with a little downtime.


----------



## reev3r

I will loosen the block to see what I get, hopefully that is the issue. I was concerned because the block was a leaving a gap between the thermal pad and VRM, and tightening it a little made it snug.


----------



## CryptiK

There should not be any gaps between blocks and pads especially over the VRM. I wonder if your block is warped? If you take it right off, check it for flatness.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Now I know why I don't use mono blocks . Popped a vrm maybe eh ??


----------



## electro2u

It's the backplate installs on mono blocks that's a killer. Those vregs or whatever. His isn't a CPU block mono though. The CPU is gonna be fine.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> There should not be any gaps between blocks and pads especially over the VRM. I wonder if your block is warped? If you take it right off, check it for flatness.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Now I know why I don't use mono blocks . Popped a vrm maybe eh ??


Alright, we have progress!!! Pulled the board enough to safely loosen the VRM block... I was able to get past the 00/10/CPU error, and have now moved to 9C/BOOT_DEVICE LED...

My devices are connected as normal, and the system beeps like it should, but hangs at that, as well, none of my USB devices seem to initiate, and given the USB error associated with 9C, it isn't surprising...

This, to me, at least says my CPU is fine, and given that it is the more expensive of the two to replace, is the more distressing of the two...

Thank you for your suggestions, any thoughts moving forward?


----------



## reev3r

I also wanted to thank everyone for not guiding me towards a monoblock! I really did want one, but I had something itching at me not to do it, and I am glad that everyone gave me the gentle nudge I needed. A monoblock would be a serious PITA right now.

Although, it would be much easier to pull my board with only two fittings...


----------



## CryptiK

If backing it off some allowed you to get pasf the 00 error, but it's still not right Id Remove the whole thing go back to stock and see if its ok. Check for shorts/contact on the block and mobo too.

Yep must suck to pull it all down again, hate draining and swapping parts with water droplets everywhere. Be careful and take your time! Good luck


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I also wanted to thank everyone for not guiding me towards a monoblock! I really did want one, but I had something itching at me not to do it, and I am glad that everyone gave me the gentle nudge I needed. A monoblock would be a serious PITA right now.
> 
> Although, it would be much easier to pull my board with only two fittings...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> If backing it off some allowed you to get pasf the 00 error, but it's still not right Id Remove the whole thing go back to stock and see if its ok. Check for shorts/contact on the block and mobo too.
> 
> Yep must suck to pull it all down again, hate draining and swapping parts with water droplets everywhere. Be careful and take your time! Good luck
Click to expand...

Quick disconnects are the go , soooooo much faster changeover time and....... no bleeding the bleedin loop either


----------



## CryptiK

QDC's are pretty restrictive from what I've seen. I wasn't sure it was worth the trade off and my loop is all internal and kinda pretty looking, Id rather just drain port which I'm installjng tomorrow. Which do you use anyway? Got any pics of your system?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> QDC's are pretty restrictive from what I've seen. I wasn't sure it was worth the trade off and my loop is all internal and kinda pretty looking, Id rather just drain port which I'm installjng tomorrow. Which do you use anyway? Got any pics of your system?






Twinchillputer . 1hp Hailer HC-1000 for the gpu's its got a 4 litre res . I don't run it that much since I stopped benchmarking . Hence the 2 rads . Ones 60mm 420 and the other is a 60mm 360 both xspc's ,so are the gpu blocks . Trifire 290's . And a Hailer HC-500 for the 4960x no rad . With a EK supremacy full copper cpu block . And a 3.5kw Portable a/c unit . A/C is for room and rad cooling , keeps the HC-1000 from kicking on too mnuch when in use . Chillers set at 20 deg cel water temp . I can pull down and run again in under 10 mins . Monitors are 27' Sammy ips 1440p , Middle is a Sammy 28' UHD and a Kogan 27' 1440p ips .
Plus a 17kw full ducted a/c . Is heaven on a stick when hot here . My room gets the full western sun aspect so its a must . Tinted the windows too .....
So it goes like this , the rear of the HC-1000 vents into the intake of the Portable a/c and that is ducted outside . Portable punches out into the rads and room and over chillputer . All of this using what I had lying around . Crazy I know but I did 10 years in the A/C industry here so I know my limitations LooooooL


----------



## xarot

Wow man, killer setup!









...and I'm struggling with the wife to keep my two computers and single monitor around.







Although the 800D And Enthoo Primo are not the smallest cases in our tiny apartment.


----------



## CryptiK

Holy ****nuts batman, that's insane. I can see how QDC's work for your setup!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Wow man, killer setup!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and I'm struggling with the wife to keep my two computers and single monitor around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although the 800D And Enthoo Primo are not the smallest cases in our tiny apartment.


This way im not operating out of my bedroom .
Single no kids or missus that's why .

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Holy ****nuts batman, that's insane. I can see how QDC's work for your setup!


Yeah its a case of holy @#*& snacks Batman








Pics of rig in case some BE some RIVE some

When I get bored I move out into the lounge Z97 SOC with chiller .... Currvy Sammy 67' UHD










I did have too many X79 boards LoooooL













So much time moolah invested LooooooL


----------



## Kimir

You can see toons of QDC in action in my rig as well. Can't see me not to use them.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Ive got quite a few left over around the place like silver rat turds LooooooL


----------



## skupples

the restrictive nature of QDCs are pretty damn over-hyped, it only really becomes an issue when you start putting multiple sets of them on your loop, same for restriction in general. It's not the devil people have made it out to be, specially if you run DDC pumps.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Ya, and if you're running the newer VLN4 series QDCs like Homecinema is then they're not very restrictive at all. I noticed a massive flow increase after replacing the older generation of vln4s with 4 sets of the new ones. Draining half a liter from my blocks beats draining 3.5 liters from my whole loop


----------



## Kimir

I have what, nine QD3 on my Panda rig, if it was that bad I would see it, since I'm with a single D5.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I have what, nine QD3 on my Panda rig, if it was that bad I would see it, since I'm with a single D5.


exactly, it's just another one of those things in this niche which is surrounded with nonsense. Yes, at one point in time they were obscenely restrictive, but this hasn't really been the case for quite some time now, and they continue to get better and better. People treat "restriction" as if it were the end all be all plague of watercooling.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Ya, and if you're running the newer VLN4 series QDCs like Homecinema is then they're not very restrictive at all. I noticed a massive flow increase after replacing the older generation of vln4s with 4 sets of the new ones. *Draining half a liter from my blocks beats draining 3.5 liters from my whole loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


This .......
In my case I lose maybe less than 5mls of coolant









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I have what, nine QD3 on my Panda rig, if it was that bad I would see it, since I'm with a single D5.


I did run a combo of VLN4 for joiners and QD3 female and male QDC's .
But now I use the QD3 Males as joiners when I need too
I had to import the majority of em from frozen cpu


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> exactly, it's just another one of those things in this niche which is surrounded with nonsense. Yes, at one point in time they were obscenely restrictive, but this hasn't really been the case for quite some time now, and they continue to get better and better. People treat "restriction" as if it were the end all be all plague of watercooling.


Its when your pump dies and you burn the coolant p95'n and from a too small res


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> This way im not operating out of my bedroom .
> Single no kids or missus that's why .
> Yeah its a case of holy @#*& snacks Batman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics of rig in case some BE some RIVE some
> 
> When I get bored I move out into the lounge Z97 SOC with chiller .... Currvy Sammy 67' UHD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have too many X79 boards LoooooL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So much time moolah invested LooooooL


Nice! I love (hate) the FulmoGT, I sold mine a few months back when I upgraded my case to the STH10.

Unfortunately for me, the cost of QDC's are prohibitively expensive. So that isn't really an option, as much as I would like for it to be...


----------



## CryptiK

Yep they're not cheap. I don't change out parts enough to justify them (and the dislike of loop draining is enough to put me off impulse buying new parts) but if they're not as restrictive as Id been told I can see why they work well for those that change out parts frequently.

How'd you get on with your troubleshooting reev3r?


----------



## boldenc

anyone using NH-D15 with Crucial Tactical Tracer ram? any clearance issue with noctua fans?


----------



## CryptiK

Build almost completed, couple more pics from today's work


__
https://flic.kr/p/pNyHAA


Also swapped out the semi flattening bend that went between the 90* fitting on the CPU block outlet to the stepped lower 45* Mosfet block inlet fitting. I have a 20mm extender on both and changed the 45* to a 90* and they line up OK, much better than before. Then I got leak testing underway.


__
https://flic.kr/p/qKpeHM


No leaks!

Here's a couple shots showing it from different angles, using a real camera this time.


__
https://flic.kr/p/pNyBMG



__
https://flic.kr/p/qt9awc


It's pretty much impossible to tell off a camera, but the middle card block is Nickel/Acetal and the upper and lower cards are copper/Acetal. I was unsure about it, but just like white and rose gold go really well together creating a two-tone effect, I think this does too.

And for anyone wondering what it looks like in the dark, here's a 5 second exposure that comes close to showing it as the eye sees it, but a little brighter so you can see more detail. The res is really amazing, love the effect!


__
https://flic.kr/p/pNMCFZ


And just being artsy, 30sec exposure


__
https://flic.kr/p/qKunoh


----------



## electro2u

Looks awesome! I thought my mixed nickel/copper components on my R4BE build would look bad too, but it works fine.


----------



## Vitruvius59

Hi everyone!!! Very excited to be part of this elite group. I have a question, big issue, about my RIVBE MoBo!!! I got 2 EVGA GTX780 GPU, new, and for some reason I cant get to install properly the nvidia drivers on Win7 64Bits. The result is that the cards are recognized as VGA Standard Driver with a disastrous 800x600 resolution. The last mobo firmware converted it to a UEFI Bios. Any suggestion???
Thanks


----------



## CryptiK

Have you run a "clean install" to delete previous driver remnants? Failing that, reinstall windows perhaps? My titans were detected fine and drivers installed fine so technically there's nothing limiting you just windows itself.


----------



## skupples

makes me ALMOST miss my 900Dud

you left those drive bays in though, which means your case doesn't flex much.

removing ALL drive bays = you could literally twist the case into a flat object like a clothing box from sears.


----------



## CryptiK

Yes that's one reason I left them in! If I had to remove them Id put a plate across all drive bay mounting holes to keep the rigidity. It's no case labs case, just riveted mild steel so it's not going to have the strength of a aluminium bolted case for example.

I was just testing the full size tower waters and I think next time will get something special. Didn't want to outlay $900+ AUD (case labs are super exxy here) when the wife could turn around and say no way get that out of here haha! Or even if I thought it was excessive. But I enojoyed building into the 900 and the wife is fine with it's dimensions so will be staying full size tower in future. Better start saving now then!


----------



## skupples

I love what Phantek is doing. I paid original MSRP for my 900D, and was lucky to sell it off for $200, but damn, Phantek is really kicking Corsair's ass when it comes to quality, within the same price bracket.

I love 900D builds, they look great, I just know the glaring limitations they present. The damn thing should'a been .5 inches wider. Almost silly that they put the dual PSU support in there, when they literally touch each other back to back.


----------



## CryptiK

I considered a Phanteks enthoo primo. After buying then returning a couple of Phanteks PWM splitter hubs, however, I'm not going near that brand again. Quality of the soldering was absolutely appalling, near dead shorts from solder tags off of components. Looked like a 3 year old soldered it together using a hot spoon. I wasn't going to risk running something that bad in my build. If you are considering one of their cases, take a look at one in person. I haven't, but from what I saw in their fan splitter hubs I think I dodged a bullet when I chose the 900D over the enthoo. Like I said though I'd love a Case Labs case, but wanted to trial a build with a full size case that wasn't mega dollars first.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> I considered a Phanteks enthoo primo. After buying then returning a couple of Phanteks PWM splitter hubs, however, I'm not going near that brand again. Quality of the soldering was absolutely appalling, near dead shorts from solder tags off of components. Looked like a 3 year old soldered it together using a hot spoon. I wasn't going to risk running something that bad in my build. If you are considering one of their cases, take a look at one in person. I haven't, but from what I saw in their fan splitter hubs I think I dodged a bullet when I chose the 900D over the enthoo. Like I said though I'd love a Case Labs case, but wanted to trial a build with a full size case that wasn't mega dollars first.


I totally get it. I went with the STH10 for this build because I thought I was getting a good deal, but my guilty conscience ended up making it not much of a deal. I paid $700 for what would'a cost $1,000 new, so I guess that's an OK deal, but I was supposed to get away with it, and all the accessories for $550. BUT, I felt terrible for the reseller when he emailed me a copy of a $200 shipping receipt, as we assumed shipping wouldn't be more than $75, buuuuuuuuuuuuut he lives in the middle of bumflip New York, so there's only ONE single shipping agency in a 30 mile radius that would ship the case, thus they gouged his eyes out.

I've seen Entho Primo in person. The build quality is definitely superior to 900D, but it's still a mass produced product. Their fan splitters have been getting a bad rap from day one, though. Even if they're assembled correctly, they tend to not work, as they aren't really doing what people expect them to do, thus they have compatibility issues.


----------



## CryptiK

Yes, shipping is ridiculous for large items. I think they come flat packed now so you don't get hit so hard but still, sounds like you got a good deal. $300 is $300. I think reselling the 900D will be easier due to corsairs reputation, Phanteks has this real budget aspect to them and have just not taken off here at all. Their fan splitters were that bad, I mean burn your house down bad, I will never give that company a dollar of mine, not if they can release a product that bad and arguably dangerous and expect you to pay $19 each for them. What a joke that was.

Anyway. I'm loving the new found space, loving being able to have 2 x 480mm rads with ease, and loving dumping 1100w into a single loop with fans at 1200rpm and still having great temps. Full size cases are definitely the way to go and if you build them like we do anyway, they're kinda cool to look at even for the non-PC literate friends and family.

Just saw you have 3-way titans as well *(brofist)*


----------



## skupples

unlocked GK110 FTW!

I'm hoping to ride the tri-titan until Pascal, as I really need to replace my screens before upgrading GPUs again.

lol, someone in the Far Cry 4 thread is running a 970 w/ a 1050P screen.







of course everything runs @ max @ 60FPS+ for you! You have a monitor from 1999, with a GPU built for 1440P gaming!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> lol, someone in the Far Cry 4 thread is running a 970 w/ a 1050P screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of course everything runs @ max @ 60FPS+ for you! You have a monitor from 1999, with a GPU built for 1440P gaming!


In practice, is there any real benefit to running a 22-24" 1440p monitor over a 22-24" 1050/1080p one? Assume you're running one monitor and no 3d. The only thing I think the ultra hd resolutions really do is make those 32" and up size displays less likely to have jagged edges for non-pc inputs. If you're running a 24" 1440 display then you likely don't need as much AA as a 24" 1050/1080 and if you're using a 65" 4k display then you will likely have a cleaner picture regardless (compared to a 65" 1080 display). That's before you consider that newegg doesn't even have a 1440 display smaller than 27".

My point is that I don't see where someone's display preference comes into it here. We likely all have hardware that could be better in one way or another but it's not because we like it as is or don't see the need for better, etc, etc. Hell, I didn't _really_ need to upgrade from my q9650/780i setup but I had the cash and desire to, so I did. I always thought it was about what made us happy at the end of the day, but I'm an idealist like that


----------



## Vitruvius59

This is very strange!!! Before my RIVBE I own a RIVE and when I upgrade his Bios and converted to UEFI the problem starts!!! In boths I make clean install of Win7 and Win8 with the same results: not single card recognized at first and when I use the driver disc or download the one from EVGA site it not function properly. When I installed them a black screen is the result. Then I have to go thru save mode, remove them and everything goes fine in the reboot and loging but with crap resolution!!!

The common value here is the before without the UEFI Bios and after with the UEFI!!! Any idea or advise??? Nobody with the same issue with this MoBo and the GTX780 GPU???


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> In practice, is there any real benefit to running a 22-24" 1440p monitor over a 22-24" 1050/1080p one? Assume you're running one monitor and no 3d. The only thing I think the ultra hd resolutions really do is make those 32" and up size displays less likely to have jagged edges for non-pc inputs. If you're running a 24" 1440 display then you likely don't need as much AA as a 24" 1050/1080 and if you're using a 65" 4k display then you will likely have a cleaner picture regardless (compared to a 65" 1080 display). That's before you consider that newegg doesn't even have a 1440 display smaller than 27".
> 
> My point is that I don't see where someone's display preference comes into it here. We likely all have hardware that could be better in one way or another but it's not because we like it as is or don't see the need for better, etc, etc. Hell, I didn't _really_ need to upgrade from my q9650/780i setup but I had the cash and desire to, so I did. I always thought it was about what made us happy at the end of the day, but I'm an idealist like that






the point is, the man spent $300-400 on his GPU, but is using a 10+ year old monitor, so the benefits of going with even a $100 1080p screen would be large.

increased FOV, increased image quality, & decreased motion blur, probably others.

but most people don't run monitors as small as 22 - 24 inch on this forum. the average seems to be ~27 inch.

the main point is, the priorities are out of whack. Running an ancient monitor with a fully up 2 date system (haswell, maxwell, high speed memory, SSDs) just doesn't make a whole lot of sense.

like, I won't be replacing my titans until i replace my 3x 1080P screens, as there would be no point in getting new GPUs if i'm still running dinky 1080P.

The man could run max settings @ his resolution with a 750Ti.


----------



## anti-clockwize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitruvius59*
> 
> This is very strange!!! Before my RIVBE I own a RIVE and when I upgrade his Bios and converted to UEFI the problem starts!!! In boths I make clean install of Win7 and Win8 with the same results: not single card recognized at first and when I use the driver disc or download the one from EVGA site it not function properly. When I installed them a black screen is the result. Then I have to go thru save mode, remove them and everything goes fine in the reboot and loging but with crap resolution!!!
> 
> The common value here is the before without the UEFI Bios and after with the UEFI!!! Any idea or advise??? Nobody with the same issue with this MoBo and the GTX780 GPU???


Just curious, why did you upgrade RIVE to RIVBE?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the point is, the man spent $300-400 on his GPU, but is using a 10+ year old monitor, so the benefits of going with even a $100 1080p screen would be large.
> 
> increased FOV, increased image quality, & decreased motion blur, probably others.
> 
> but most people don't run monitors as small as 22 - 24 inch on this forum. the average seems to be ~27 inch.
> 
> the main point is, the priorities are out of whack. Running an ancient monitor with a fully up 2 date system (haswell, maxwell, high speed memory, SSDs) just doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
> 
> like, I won't be replacing my titans until i replace my 3x 1080P screens, as there would be no point in getting new GPUs if i'm still running dinky 1080P.
> 
> The man could run max settings @ his resolution with a 750Ti.


His monitor actually appears to be 6 years old, not 10. If you're going to make fun of him you should at least know how old the item is before doing so. Second, I fail to see how pixel density plays into FoV or how the quality of the output content from a gfx card is so heavily dependent on the monitor. I'll give you motion blur as it is a 5ms display and not a 2 but I think even that is reaching.

So he doesn't fit the average, nor do I since I run a single 23" 1080p display. Hell, I'd likely still be using my 22" 1050p display if the back-lighting hadn't started strobing 2 or so years back.

As for priorities; they're only out of whack according to you. The thing is, he doesn't use or upgrade his computer around your priorities or opinions. So while his motivations don't make sense to you they have no need to....because they're his.

Seriously skup, isn't making fun of other peoples hardware choices beneath you?


----------



## reev3r

Alright... So here is my headache!!!

First off, this seriously blows!!!

The VRM block is stupid, if I tighten it sufficiently to get contact on the VRM's, the board is stuck at 00, if I loosen it enough to proceed to UEFI, the block doesn't have contact with VRM's because my tubing pushes it back, however, if I push it onto the VRM's by hand, all is good, no issues.

I am going to continue in my thermal pad experimenting to see if I can cut one perfectly to fit... Unless someone else has a better idea... Regardless, the good news is that the CPU and motherboard work!!!


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> His monitor actually appears to be 6 years old, not 10. If you're going to make fun of him you should at least know how old the item is before doing so. Second, I fail to see how pixel density plays into FoV or how the quality of the output content from a gfx card is so heavily dependent on the monitor. I'll give you motion blur as it is a 5ms display and not a 2 but I think even that is reaching.
> 
> So he doesn't fit the average, nor do I since I run a single 23" 1080p display. Hell, I'd likely still be using my 22" 1050p display if the back-lighting hadn't started strobing 2 or so years back.
> 
> As for priorities; they're only out of whack according to you. The thing is, he doesn't use or upgrade his computer around your priorities or opinions. So while his motivations don't make sense to you they have no need to....because they're his.
> 
> Seriously skup, isn't making fun of other peoples hardware choices beneath you?


I don't think he was being harsh he was just making the observation that others have very mismatched hardware and that he didn't want to go down that road himself (IE: upgrade cards before upgrading monitors). Monitor choice and pixel number really drives your GPU choice so it makes sense to purchase the monitor first, then the GPU's to suit. The other guy has wasted money on an unnecessarily powerful GPU for a small monitor, which isn't a smart move. Each to their own etc but Skupp wasn't being personal or harsh, just making an observation of a poor choice made by someone else.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Alright... So here is my headache!!!
> 
> First off, this seriously blows!!!
> 
> The VRM block is stupid, if I tighten it sufficiently to get contact on the VRM's, the board is stuck at 00, if I loosen it enough to proceed to UEFI, the block doesn't have contact with VRM's because my tubing pushes it back, however, if I push it onto the VRM's by hand, all is good, no issues.
> 
> I am going to continue in my thermal pad experimenting to see if I can cut one perfectly to fit... Unless someone else has a better idea... Regardless, the good news is that the CPU and motherboard work!!!


Dude that sucks. Sounds like the block is bowed and tightening it down until your VRMs contact is bending the board enough to error out. This is not good. Nor is cutting jumbo thickness pads - the heat won't transfer properly and you're not getting the full (or any) benefit to water cooling at all. My advice - take it back and get a refund. Buy an EK block and know you're good to go. I understand your reasons for trying what you did first, but there's no point in spending money that doesn't give you any of the benefits, vs spending a bit more but getting all the benefits.


----------



## CryptiK

Little more progress today on my build. I wanted to tweak my ram a little more but it wasn't really cooperating. It would do rated speeds and timings which were impressive, but I've always been into ram so I wanted something I could push a little more. Also wanted a little more light on the mobo without resorting to fitting LED's...so I killed 2 birds with one stone

16GB Corsair 2133 C9's


__
https://flic.kr/p/qux5hz


These run 2133 9-11-10-30 1T @ 1.50v and haven't pushed them yet but they tighten up well and overclock a bit too due to the nice samsung IC's.

Mounted in the system and stability tested, passed no problem to 100%. I'll do more later, but if the sticks can do this then they're OK in my experience.

I don't even need 1.05v VCCSA to run 2133 CL9 1T, it took somewhere between 1.0v and 1.05v VCCSA to run 2400 CL10 1T so this CPU IMC seems very strong.



The light bars really change the look of the ram/CPU socket area/tubing with the shine on the chrome highlights and on the white tubing really accentuating the shapes.


__
https://flic.kr/p/qJGgbJ


Super happy with this now










__
https://flic.kr/p/qLPL3k


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Dude that sucks. Sounds like the block is bowed and tightening it down until your VRMs contact is bending the board enough to error out. This is not good. Nor is cutting jumbo thickness pads - the heat won't transfer properly and you're not getting the full (or any) benefit to water cooling at all. My advice - take it back and get a refund. Buy an EK block and know you're good to go. I understand your reasons for trying what you did first, but there's no point in spending money that doesn't give you any of the benefits, vs spending a bit more but getting all the benefits.


In my observation, the block tips backward and I feel that no matter the block in use the same effect would be present. Basically it can't be tightened down squarely because the screws are only on one side (unfortunately the side and distance are exactly the worst they could be) so it is just able to 'wobble' without being flush.

Something that irks me to no end, someone posted on here to the effect of "you can't tighten VRM blocks down very tight"...

How can a company release a product that you have to repeatedly experience failure, and potentially hardware damage in order to get it to work...

Anyhow, I do not observe that the block is bowed sufficiently to cause this problem. Additionally, I got it working fine outside of my case, but once installed the same thing occurs. So I am at a loss, and returning it is not an option financially...

I should have just gone with the danged EK monoblock in the first place. Has anybody else had any problems with blocks like this with this board and block (or any block with this board?)

Ugh... So frustrating!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> In my observation, the block tips backward and I feel that no matter the block in use the same effect would be present. Basically it can't be tightened down squarely because the screws are only on one side (unfortunately the side and distance are exactly the worst they could be) so it is just able to 'wobble' without being flush.
> 
> Something that irks me to no end, someone posted on here to the effect of "you can't tighten VRM blocks down very tight"...
> 
> How can a company release a product that you have to repeatedly experience failure, and potentially hardware damage in order to get it to work...
> 
> Anyhow, I do not observe that the block is bowed sufficiently to cause this problem. Additionally, I got it working fine outside of my case, but once installed the same thing occurs. So I am at a loss, and returning it is not an option financially...
> 
> I should have just gone with the danged EK monoblock in the first place. Has anybody else had any problems with blocks like this with this board and block (or any block with this board?)
> 
> Ugh... So frustrating!


Sorry you're having difficulty with the blocks. man








I'm interested in what's causing the incompatibility, though. I have the EK monoblock and getting the screws to thread into the VRM plate is definitely tricky, but there's one screw on each side as shown:


Comparing that with the regular EK vrm block I see the vrms themselves (and the thermal pad) are supposed to anchor the block from pitching forward. It makes me wonder if there is something odd about your boards vrm backplate that is raising the block on that side more than it should be. The screws could also possibly be at fault if there is a gap between them after they have come through the backplate and threaded into the block.

Edit: I might give a try to placing some washers between the screws and the vrm backplate in order to pull the block onto the board more securely without having the block raised such that pressure from the tubing causes it to lean.


----------



## Vitruvius59

It will be increased from 64 to 128Gb RAM, has integrated WiFi, more storage space, among other things!!!


----------



## CryptiK

Dafuq? ^


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Alright... So here is my headache!!!
> 
> First off, this seriously blows!!!
> 
> The VRM block is stupid, if I tighten it sufficiently to get contact on the VRM's, the board is stuck at 00, if I loosen it enough to proceed to UEFI, the block doesn't have contact with VRM's because my tubing pushes it back, however, if I push it onto the VRM's by hand, all is good, no issues.
> 
> I am going to continue in my thermal pad experimenting to see if I can cut one perfectly to fit... Unless someone else has a better idea... Regardless, the good news is that the CPU and motherboard work!!!


I had that same issue and had to run the tubing like this:

to make it sit well. Iirc there was a bit of space between the bottom of the VRM standoffs and the board but the biggest problem was the overly flexible stock VRM back plate. You could probably use some nylon spacers to fill those gaps if you can find some that small, or cut a stiffer plate to go over the stock one if you have some heavier gauge metal plate lying around.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> I don't think he was being harsh he was just making the observation that others have very mismatched hardware and that he didn't want to go down that road himself (IE: upgrade cards before upgrading monitors). Monitor choice and pixel number really drives your GPU choice so it makes sense to purchase the monitor first, then the GPU's to suit. The other guy has wasted money on an unnecessarily powerful GPU for a small monitor, which isn't a smart move. Each to their own etc but Skupp wasn't being personal or harsh, just making an observation of a poor choice made by someone else.


I suppose I could understand that. It just didn't come off that way to me.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> His monitor actually appears to be 6 years old, not 10. If you're going to make fun of him you should at least know how old the item is before doing so. Second, I fail to see how pixel density plays into FoV or how the quality of the output content from a gfx card is so heavily dependent on the monitor. I'll give you motion blur as it is a 5ms display and not a 2 but I think even that is reaching.
> 
> So he doesn't fit the average, nor do I since I run a single 23" 1080p display. Hell, I'd likely still be using my 22" 1050p display if the back-lighting hadn't started strobing 2 or so years back.
> 
> As for priorities; they're only out of whack according to you. The thing is, he doesn't use or upgrade his computer around your priorities or opinions. So while his motivations don't make sense to you they have no need to....because they're his.
> 
> Seriously skup, isn't making fun of other peoples hardware choices beneath you?


Seriously guy, you're reading way too much into this.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Dude that sucks. Sounds like the block is bowed and tightening it down until your VRMs contact is bending the board enough to error out. This is not good. Nor is cutting jumbo thickness pads - the heat won't transfer properly and you're not getting the full (or any) benefit to water cooling at all. My advice - take it back and get a refund. Buy an EK block and know you're good to go. I understand your reasons for trying what you did first, but there's no point in spending money that doesn't give you any of the benefits, vs spending a bit more but getting all the benefits.
> 
> 
> 
> In my observation, the block tips backward and I feel that no matter the block in use the same effect would be present. Basically it can't be tightened down squarely because the screws are only on one side (unfortunately the side and distance are exactly the worst they could be) so it is just able to 'wobble' without being flush.
> 
> Something that irks me to no end, someone posted on here to the effect of "you can't tighten VRM blocks down very tight"...
> 
> How can a company release a product that you have to repeatedly experience failure, and potentially hardware damage in order to get it to work...
> 
> Anyhow, I do not observe that the block is bowed sufficiently to cause this problem. Additionally, I got it working fine outside of my case, but once installed the same thing occurs. So I am at a loss, and returning it is not an option financially...
> 
> I should have just gone with the danged EK monoblock in the first place. Has anybody else had any problems with blocks like this with this board and block (or any block with this board?)
> 
> Ugh... So frustrating!
Click to expand...

I had zero problems with the XSPC blocks on this board, but I also used acrylic tube so there was no tubing trying to push the block any direction out of place.

If you have flexible tube trying to make bends that are putting tension on the block you might want to consider forming your tubing to shape to reduce the force the tubing is exerting on the block. Whenever I have used flexible tubing I always did the forming trick whenever I needed a tight bend. lets you get incredibly tight bends with little-to-no risk of the tube kinking and reduces the force the tube puts on components, plus it just looks a million times better than anti-kink coils. Just get the right size bending spring to fit the I.D. of your tube, make the bend you need and tie it together like that, dip it for a minute in boiling water, then into ice, and repeat.

Here's a guide:
http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/6


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Seriously guy, you're reading way too much into this.


Everyone has a skill. lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here's a guide: http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/6


That looks really handy. What does that do to the tubing in terms of longevity though? Any risk of problems from the tubing becoming brittle or such?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Dafuq? ^


LoooooL


----------



## skupples

Man, you would probably have to run 1333-1600mh to get 128gb stable on this platform.


----------



## anti-clockwize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> His monitor actually appears to be 6 years old, not 10. If you're going to make fun of him you should at least know how old the item is before doing so. Second, I fail to see how pixel density plays into FoV or how the quality of the output content from a gfx card is so heavily dependent on the monitor. I'll give you motion blur as it is a 5ms display and not a 2 but I think even that is reaching.
> 
> So he doesn't fit the average, nor do I since I run a single 23" 1080p display. Hell, I'd likely still be using my 22" 1050p display if the back-lighting hadn't started strobing 2 or so years back.
> 
> As for priorities; they're only out of whack according to you. The thing is, he doesn't use or upgrade his computer around your priorities or opinions. So while his motivations don't make sense to you they have no need to....because they're his.
> 
> Seriously skup, isn't making fun of other peoples hardware choices beneath you?


everybody on here thinks they know better than everyone else.
I've asked a few questions here, people don't even read, just answer after reading the title. Generally with a snarky comment aimed to make you feel stupid.
It's not a nice community


----------



## skupples

speaking in absolutes









as to FoV & resolution. I don't know why it works this way, but higher resolution = more stuff on the screen, this is why aspect ratio is so important for some people, as super wide screen reduces vertical fov, while stretching horizontal FoV.

As to image quality, motion blur, & all of that.

blurbusters.


----------



## reev3r

There is another thing that I have experienced...

I got it working with the block on at a given tightness, followed by getting the board vertical and it working fine. Installed it t5%
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I had zero problems with the XSPC blocks on this board, but I also used acrylic tube so there was no tubing trying to push the block any direction out of place.
> 
> If you have flexible tube trying to make bends that are putting tension on the block you might want to consider forming your tubing to shape to reduce the force the tubing is exerting on the block. Whenever I have used flexible tubing I always did the forming trick whenever I needed a tight bend. lets you get incredibly tight bends with little-to-no risk of the tube kinking and reduces the force the tube puts on components, plus it just looks a million times better than anti-kink coils. Just get the right size bending spring to fit the I.D. of your tube, make the bend you need and tie it together like that, dip it for a minute in boiling water, then into ice, and repeat.
> 
> Here's a guide:
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/6


That may help IMMENSELY! I will give it a try tonight when (hopefully) I have motivation again... Thank you!


----------



## fishingfanatic

Agreed somewhat. I think, myself included, no one wants to feel made fun of, and lately to make sure I'm not offending anyone, I have been adding" no offense to anyone", just in hopes of not offending

anyone.

i think in the right circumstances, everyone goes off, stress relief or whatever.

Trying to put a positive light on things or add something as a suggestion, or thought. Feeling better about dealing with people who give you the respect they feel they deserve to u as well. For me, it's not an

argument, just an observation. Sometimes u agree to disagree...









FF


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-clockwize*
> 
> everybody on here thinks they know better than everyone else.
> I've asked a few questions here, people don't even read, just answer after reading the title. Generally with a snarky comment aimed to make you feel stupid.
> It's not a nice community


Sometimes it's that the nicer members post less. The nicer folks are generally happier and thus busier so not spamming threads or looking for threads to sub and discussions to join in on.


----------



## skupples

I'm also not making fun of anyone, i'm simply chuckling over running a 970 on a sub 1080P monitor. Like when people chuckled @ me for running twin 670 FTWs on an identical resolution.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here's a guide: http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/6
> 
> 
> 
> That looks really handy. What does that do to the tubing in terms of longevity though? Any risk of problems from the tubing becoming brittle or such?
Click to expand...

I've used that method many times and never noticed any difference. I've had loops go a year or more before I replaced the tubing and never saw any difference between the tubes I formed and those that I didn't. I have messed up a piece or two by leaving it in the boiling water too long, and I've only used Primochill Advanced LRT if that matters.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-clockwize*
> 
> everybody on here thinks they know better than everyone else.
> I've asked a few questions here, people don't even read, just answer after reading the title. Generally with a snarky comment aimed to make you feel stupid.
> It's not a nice community


Part of it might also be how you're reading it. It can be hard explaining things to people, being informative without talking over someone's head while also not coming off as condescending. If you're watching 20 or so threads while doing things irl it can be hard to take the time to sit and balance the two. Sometimes it doesn't even matter how much time you take wording your reply because the person reading it still won't like how you said it. On the whole it's better than some others I've been and the only way you really get a friendlier one is if it's a very small and tight-knit forum where everyone knows everyone else. In my opinion at least.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> as to FoV & resolution. I don't know why it works this way, but higher resolution = more stuff on the screen, this is why aspect ratio is so important for some people, as super wide screen reduces vertical fov, while stretching horizontal FoV.


Perhaps it's how certain games or most games implement FoV. Possibly even to the extent of tying different FoV sizes to different resolutions. Personally I'd like all games to have FoV sliders that are independent of your desired res but it's been claimed in the past that higher FoVs are viewed as cheating to certain game publishers *cough* EA *cough*. lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Sometimes it's that the nicer members post less. The nicer folks are generally happier and thus busier so not spamming threads or looking for threads to sub and discussions to join in on.


More or less my take on this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm also not making fun of anyone, i'm simply chuckling over running a 970 on a sub 1080P monitor. Like when people chuckled @ me for running twin 670 FTWs on an identical resolution.


My bad then bud, it came off as being too critical. Don't worry though, I'd never judge you for running twin 670s on a 1050p display








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've used that method many times and never noticed any difference. I've had loops go a year or more before I replaced the tubing and never saw any difference between the tubes I formed and those that I didn't. I have messed up a piece or two by leaving it in the boiling water too long, and I've only used Primochill Advanced LRT if that matters.


Thanks for the info. I think mine is just regular LRT since it's been in here a while and I bought a good ~15-25' when first laying out this loop. I've seen this happen naturally with tygon and lrt that has been in a loop a long time but the rapid cooling had me worried. Anyway, thanks again.


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-clockwize*
> 
> everybody on here thinks they know better than everyone else.
> I've asked a few questions here, people don't even read, just answer after reading the title. Generally with a snarky comment aimed to make you feel stupid.
> It's not a nice community


To be honest I've found exactly the opposite. Could be luck of the draw but I've asked questions and received meaningful responses I found helpful. Same in this thread since i just very recently bought this motherboard. I do tend to be tolerant and assume the best rather than the worst as my take on skupps comment demonstrates, and I'm not often wrong - remember tone does not come across in written text ert effectively. some tend to get bent right out of shape really quick over little things whereas I don't. I mean it's a community and you'll have a normal distribution of attitudes in here. Some absolute tools, majority indifferent but generally interested, and some super helpful guys. Maybe you've more often encountered the lower end of the spectrum!


----------



## yttocstfarc

Looking to do some upgrading this year. (actually here in the next month or so) Just want to get you guys opinions on what you might do.

So as of right now I'm sitting on the rig that is in my signature. I would like to step into a custom water loop, And for this I have 2 options. I can either

1. Purchase a 3rd Gtx 780 for x3 Sli and watercool the entire system with this.



I've always wanted a x3 SLI setup for the Black Edition.

Or

2. Sell the Sli Gtx 780s I have to purchase x2 or x3 Sli of these or something similar.



And order same parts list above without the water-blocks.

I just really hate to spend almost $500 on waterblocks for the 780s when the 980s are out and stomping things.

Anyways after these are done I am going to revisit my overclock and really try to fine tune it with the custom loop installed. I would like to get my base numbers and a good stable overclock dialed in and if at all possible get some of you Vets to look at my screen caps and see where i might be able to tweak it some more.

Any help or advice you guys have would be appreciated.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-clockwize*
> 
> everybody on here thinks they know better than everyone else.
> I've asked a few questions here, people don't even read, just answer after reading the title. Generally with a snarky comment aimed to make you feel stupid.
> It's not a nice community
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Dafuq? ^
Click to expand...

You should take a good look around _other threads_


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Looking to do some upgrading this year. (actually here in the next month or so) Just want to get you guys opinions on what you might do.
> 
> So as of right now I'm sitting on the rig that is in my signature. I would like to step into a custom water loop, And for this I have 2 options. I can either
> 
> 1. Purchase a 3rd Gtx 780 for x3 Sli and watercool the entire system with this.
> 
> 
> 
> I've always wanted a x3 SLI setup for the Black Edition.
> 
> Or
> 
> 2. Sell the Sli Gtx 780s I have to purchase x2 or x3 Sli of these or something similar.
> 
> 
> 
> And order same parts list above without the water-blocks.
> 
> I just really hate to spend almost $500 on waterblocks for the 780s when the 980s are out and stomping things.
> 
> Anyways after these are done I am going to revisit my overclock and really try to fine tune it with the custom loop installed. I would like to get my base numbers and a good stable overclock dialed in and if at all possible get some of you Vets to look at my screen caps and see where i might be able to tweak it some more.
> 
> Any help or advice you guys have would be appreciated.


If it were me I'd wait until the 980 refresh comes out. I'd buy everything I need except for the gfx blocks, and skip the third 780.

For the cooling parts I put a list together for someone else in another thread....here.. with parts/brands I personally use/recommend.

I'd put a 140.2 on the top and a 120.3 on the front with a pmp-500 or d5/655 pump, an swiftech mcres (or possibly a 80-100mm tube res), some really good fans then run them from a 5.25 bay fan controller.

Is your list missing a second QDC set? A single set doesn't seem very beneficial.

From what I recall of the 540 the only real issue will be the res placement which is why I suggest a mcres over a tube or bay one.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> If it were me I'd wait until the 980 refresh comes out. I'd buy everything I need except for the gfx blocks, and skip the third 780.
> 
> For the cooling parts I put a list together for someone else in another thread....here.. with parts/brands I personally use/recommend.
> 
> I'd put a 140.2 on the top and a 120.3 on the front with a pmp-500 or d5/655 pump, an swiftech mcres (or possibly a 80-100mm tube res), some really good fans then run them from a 5.25 bay fan controller.
> 
> Is your list missing a second QDC set? A single set doesn't seem very beneficial.
> 
> From what I recall of the 540 the only real issue will be the res placement which is why I suggest a mcres over a tube or bay one.


Thanks for the info!. No the second qd set isn't missing i was just going to use the t block with the qd set as a drain hose to drain the system when needed.

Whats the latest talk on the release of 980 refresh?


----------



## fishingfanatic

There is 1 suggestion that should help considerably, go from the 3/8x1/2 to 1/2x3/4.

More volume, the pump outlet is full flow that way. 3/8x1/2 will work, but this will help to control temps better imho and flow isn't reduced

coming out of the pump.

Should be an interesting build. As mentioned by another member, stick with sli, not 3 way. 3 way doesn't c as much benefit as sli and use

the savings to jump up to the bigger fittings.

Good luck with the build and let us know how it turns out.

FF


----------



## CryptiK

All good info. Anything you need mate theres a few of us who have been watercooling for years so just ask








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> You should take a good look around _other threads_


There's other threads?? I thought this was rampageivextremeblackedition.net lol


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Thanks for the info!. No the second qd set isn't missing i was just going to use the t block with the qd set as a drain hose to drain the system when needed.
> 
> Whats the latest talk on the release of 980 refresh?


Any time.

That works too but you could save some cash by just attaching a ball valve to the t-block and call it a day. Same effect but cheaper and less hassle when using it to drain the loop.

The cycle is ~6 months, right? It's been years since I worried about that. If it _is_ still a 6 month cycle then sometime around March - May, maybe June on the outside. I can't say for sure though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> There is 1 suggestion that should help considerably, go from the 3/8x1/2 to 1/2x3/4.


I don't know how I missed that. I second this, if you go with a d5 or 655 pump go with 1/2 x 3/4" tubing (the d5 type pumps are native 1/2" ID pumps). If you go with a pmp-500 or a ddc/355 you could stay at 3/8 x 1/2 (the ddc type are native 3/8" ID pumps and the pmp-500 doesn't have native barbs). Aside from that it's mainly visual preference as someone in this thread stated a while back tube size doesn't matter _that_ much.


----------



## skupples

Tri SLI is dead to me until developers and manufacturers show they actually want to properly support he crap they sell. This probably won't ever happen, but we can dream that DX12 and Mantle will kill off AFR. Pretty sure that was one of AMD's original promises.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> There is 1 suggestion that should help considerably, go from the 3/8x1/2 to 1/2x3/4.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how I missed that. I second this, if you go with a d5 or 655 pump go with 1/2 x 3/4" tubing (the d5 type pumps are native 1/2" ID pumps). If you go with a pmp-500 or a ddc/355 you could stay at 3/8 x 1/2 (the ddc type are native 3/8" ID pumps and the pmp-500 doesn't have native barbs). Aside from that it's mainly visual preference as someone in this thread stated a while back tube size doesn't matter _that_ much.
Click to expand...

3/8" (0.375" = 9.525mm) ID tubing closely matches the ID of every G1/4 fitting in a loop. The ID of G1/4 fittings run just under 10mm/0.393", though it varies by brand. I'm seeing 0.391" ID Bitspower, 0.375" ID Primochill, and only 0.340" ID Monsoon.

With any larger ID tubing all you are achieving is a bottleneck at every fitting so that any actual benefits to flow by having larger tubing turns out to be very slight. Using Martins pump and rad optimiser for a CPU and GPU loop, 6 feet of 3/8" ID tubing vs 1/2" ID makes a 0.2 LPM (0.05 GPM) difference which is next to nothing. The only way it would actually make a noticeable difference to flow to go from 3/8" ID tubing to 1/2" ID tubing would be if you somehow also used larger ID fittings which would require larger ID threaded ports in all your components. Good luck with that.


----------



## reev3r

In addition to the ID of fittings that has already been mentioned, based on much of what I am seeing, the actual volume of many blocks (specifically the internal fins) is actually the same or less than the volume of 3/8" ID fittings, so even there is another bottleneck by comparcomparison made the switch from my 1/2"-3/4" compressions and tubing down to 3/8"-1/2" barbs/tubing and I see zero flow difference, and no temperature difference in my loop. With the pump at idle, or Mac also made no difference in the switch, so really it just comes down to personal preference... Do you want GIANT, gaudy compressions that night look nice in certain situations, or would prefer the more streamlined look of smaller fittings...?

Personally, I made the switch to using 1/2" barbs and 3/8" tubing with tiny black zip-ties (difficult to see on black tubing) for my loop, and it really looks great this way! Much better than my 1/2"-3/4" swiftech fittings did... They looked terrible AND they were the biggest PITA of my loop to deal with... Even worse than my tubing based SLI bridge... lol


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 3/8" (0.375" = 9.525mm) ID tubing closely matches the ID of every G1/4 fitting in a loop. The ID of G1/4 fittings run just under 10mm/0.393", though it varies by brand. I'm seeing 0.391" ID Bitspower, 0.375" ID Primochill, and only 0.340" ID Monsoon.
> 
> With any larger ID tubing all you are achieving is a bottleneck at every fitting so that any actual benefits to flow by having larger tubing turns out to be very slight. Using Martins pump and rad optimiser for a CPU and GPU loop, 6 feet of 3/8" ID tubing vs 1/2" ID makes a 0.2 LPM (0.05 GPM) difference which is next to nothing. The only way it would actually make a noticeable difference to flow to go from 3/8" ID tubing to 1/2" ID tubing would be if you somehow also used larger ID fittings which would require larger ID threaded ports in all your components. Good luck with that.


Yeah, I've read this, the limiter is really how many very restrictive items (blocks, mainly) in the loop vs pressure drop across said items vs pump head pressure. Tubing, even 3/8" ain't going to make much difference, if any. I run 1/2" for looks, since the case is full size smaller tubing would look odd IMO.

But seriously even if you run super restrictive blocks (Aquacomputer for example) and you have mobo, CPU, SLI, ram blocks and are worried about it, just get 2 pumps and problem solved.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> I run 1/2" for looks, since the case is full size smaller tubing would look odd IMO.


I got a chuckle out of this... Just because I moved to an STH10 from a 'Supertower' FulmoGT, and the fittings looked too big in that case, and it was HUGE, but then in the STH10 everything looks tiny, so much so that the contrast of the giant 1/2-3/4 fittings on the blocks just looks goofy as a 7" NBA player trying to cram himself into a Porsche 911... lol


----------



## CryptiK

Hey you've seen pics of my case, do you think they look too big, too small, or OK? Sounds like I'm a woman asking about my boobs lol


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Hey you've seen pics of my case, do you think they look too big, too small, or OK? Sounds like I'm a woman asking about my boobs lol


I do hope you'll forgive me, and my substandard memory (cancer medications and all), but I do not recall your particular rig, and I did not see any photographs of it on your profile... Perhaps you'll post a photograph so as to remind me... 

My apologies...


----------



## CryptiK

No problem at all


__
https://flic.kr/p/qJGgbJ



__
https://flic.kr/p/qLPL3k


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Tri SLI is dead to me until developers and manufacturers show they actually want to properly support he crap they sell. This probably won't ever happen, but we can dream that DX12 and Mantle will kill off AFR. Pretty sure that was one of AMD's original promises.


I agree skupples. But Tri Sli is SO Sexy...lol


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> All good info. Anything you need mate theres a few of us who have been watercooling for years so just ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's other threads?? I thought this was rampageivextremeblackedition.net lol


Maybe I'll go ahead and load up my usb and take some screenshots of my current overclock and see what you guys think. Will post those soon.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Hey you've seen pics of my case, do you think they look too big, too small, or OK? Sounds like I'm a woman asking about my boobs lol


Where are these boobs and where do I submit my feedback of them?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Where are these boobs and where do I submit my feedback of them?




@CryptiK I think it looks great, I also prefer oversized... uh... tubing.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Any time.
> 
> That works too but you could save some cash by just attaching a ball valve to the t-block and call it a day. Same effect but cheaper and less hassle when using it to drain the loop.


Can you link one of those ball valve fittings you are talking about?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> @CryptiK I think it looks great, I also prefer oversized... uh... tubing.


Perry's aren't the worst I've seen but they don't do a whole lot for me either.

There is such a thing as too big when it comes to..."tubing".









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Can you link one of those ball valve fittings you are talking about?


Sure. That's the one I have on my QDC drain assembly and you can likely pick up less flashy ones at your local hardware or plumbing store. just add a male/male connector and a stop plug to keep dust out of the open end and you're set!


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Perry's aren't the worst I've seen but they don't do a whole lot for me either.
> 
> There is such a thing as too big when it comes to..."tubing".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure. That's the one I have on my QDC drain assembly and you can likely pick up less flashy ones at your local hardware or plumbing store. just add a male/male connector and a stop plug to keep dust out of the open end and you're set!


Cool thanks! I didn't even think about that...lol


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Hey you've seen pics of my case, do you think they look too big, too small, or OK? Sounds like I'm a woman asking about my boobs lol


Ladyboy ??


----------



## skupples




----------



## fishingfanatic

WelI I switched to 1/2x3/4 and saw a noticeable decrease in temps. Could be the setup, who knows. It could

make a considerable difference, as I mentioned, mostly to do with the way u arrange ur loop and cooling.

The larger fittings allow for increased flow and volume.

No fans, high cfm fans ....A fellow I chat with is trying to se tup a loop with a home made type of heat

exchanger he made using a crawl space under his pc room and car rads for additional cooling. Should be

interesting to find out how it works out.

I like to bench so I have only the line in, cpu block and gpu block, line out and that's it. I would think that

would be better for cooling, although as mentioned, looks, convenience, space, budget, all come into

consideration, and yeah, especially with quick connects, not very pretty.

A lot of people close off rooms and open windows to get better results, basically there are a number of little

things that can add up to a fair size thermal reduction. Some people use chillers as well. With everything

there's usually a catch. From what I've read, chillers can cause condensation if set too low....

For me it's performance, and the idea of keeping connections to a minimum inside of the case. Murphy and I

R good buddies!!!









Love the convenience and time saving of quick connects! I can add a rad, take it out, put a filter in when

adding fresh water, perhaps a number of things, additional rads,...

I haven't done any research yet on running 2 pumps in the same loop. Does anyone run a completely

separate loop for the cpu and 1 just for the gpu? Someone must, is the additional cost worth it ???

I would think that would help a fair bit as well if ur running multiple gpus and ocing ur cpu to the max.

There r some pretty amazing setups I've seen on here, rack of rads, trees, bar fridges,...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

@fishingfanatic
Car rads are the bomb dude , mucho moar surface area











I run separate loops but my setup is well , a little different


----------



## yttocstfarc

Ok here are the screen shots from the bios. Let me know if you would like to see anything else. So far these settings have been rock solid for over a year now.






In the beginning I've had this cpu as high as [email protected] something been to long but it wasn't entirely stable.

Let me know if anything seems out of wack for what I have now.

Thanks


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

^^^

Set values for VTT and VCCSA, dram and also CPU PLL to the values auto marked by the bios so nothing just shoots up one day by malfunction.

Could try 1T(1N) on the memory for a smidge more performance.

Otherwise, looks good to me.


----------



## fishingfanatic

Ahhh, nice setup. Like you I tend to worry more about performance than aesthetics.

Nice chiller btw. I believe u have 220 outlets there similar to europe.

I couldn't find a decent priced chiller with 220 that would work price wise.

Anyone have any experience with JBJ aquarium chiller/heaters?

Looking at a 1/3 hp 480g/hr Arctica Titanium, 110 volts so I don't have to run a separate circuit for it.

Not as efficient, but almost half the price of a 220v.

I'm still waiting on a few items b4 I can clean up my loop, and notice the dog toys...

They seem to love the breeze from the fans lol. 107cfm/fan. I need a sweater when it's running...Can anyone say windtunnel?









Obviously after a day and a half it needs to have the dust blown out. Time to fire up the compressor I guess

Waiting for some tubing to even things up a bit. They may not look pretty, but they work well.

FF


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Cool thanks! I didn't even think about that...lol


That's what I'm here for.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> They seem to love the breeze from the fans lol. 107cfm/fan. I need a sweater when it's running...Can anyone say windtunnel?


I have 12 fans like that in my rig lol when gaming in the summer the loop dumps heat into the room almost faster than the A/C can handle. I can definitely understand the wind tunnel thing


----------



## CryptiK

107cfm fan how do you even hear yourself over that??


----------



## fishingfanatic

It can get noisy when I bypass the controller, and feed them straight from the psu, but it's not that bad... what did u say, I can't hear u...lol Actually pretty quiet for the air flow. The SilverStone TD series aio fans

were horrendously loud! Changed those right away so when I'm using it I can at least hear myself think, daughter's system.

Only 8 fans as a pose to 12, but if u count the extra fans I changed to higher cfms, then 2 more in the case, and 2 more for the gpu and mobo vrms.

You folks have helped a lot and I hope to beat my best oc and scores as I learn a bit more from here. I don't compete against anyone just try to beat my scores and oces.

Thanks again everyone, and if I can help somehow, as my knowledge is limited, self taught, no software training, but happy to help.

Would a 3rd rad make any real difference if u have a chiller? I wouldn't think so, but placement from pump to it then cpu,...Rads would seem redundant beyond 1 or 2, or 1 per loop, cpu, gpu individual

loops...

FF


----------



## Duke976

Hi guys and gals, previous RIVE owner here. I just want to ask if it's worth it to buy the RIVEBE for $200 complete? I am currently using Sabertooth X79 atm. Thanks.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Hi guys and gals, previous RIVE owner here. I just want to ask if it's worth it to buy the RIVEBE for $200 complete? I am currently using Sabertooth X79 atm. Thanks.


It really depends on what you want it for. 200 is a good deal for a 500 retail board but it's still 200 you may not need to spend. Day to day you likely won't see much or any performance boost unless you're getting it to really OC your cpu.

That said the x79 saber I worked with was a solid board and is still running well in the rig I built for a friend.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> 107cfm fan how do you even hear yourself over that??


I use to run KAZE Deltas on my H100 type cooler thingy, on both sides























It worked really well as a noise canceler, as I was unemployed, living with my brother at the time, & staying up late 4 nights a week to run a 4 hour raid, with mostly west coast members. He stopped coming out to attempt to kick my ass after I hooked them up.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I use to run KAZE Deltas on my H100 type cooler thingy, on both sides
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It worked really well as a noise canceler, as I was unemployed, living with my brother at the time, & staying up late 4 nights a week to run a 4 hour raid, with mostly west coast members. He stopped coming out to attempt to kick my ass after I hooked them up.


I had one of those, that single fan was louder than 3 stock nvidia gpu fans on high! I hate to imagine how loud 2 of those high pitched bastards were!


----------



## filoippo

Hi, which bios should I install? The stable 701 or the beta version 801? Someone has noticed instability with the beta version? thanks


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *filoippo*
> 
> Hi, which bios should I install? The stable 701 or the beta version 801? Someone has noticed instability with the beta version? thanks


either one is fine

the main difference in the 0801 *that i've seen at least* is the increase to support certain types of memory up to 128GB & increased OCP even further.


----------



## Wiz766

Does it matter what slot I run a single GPU for good performance. Right now I am in SLI but changing cards and going down to one. Can I run it in one of the lower PCIE slots(looks and airflow)


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> Does it matter what slot I run a single GPU for good performance. Right now I am in SLI but changing cards and going down to one. Can I run it in one of the lower PCIE slots(looks and airflow)


Only the first and 3rd long PCIE slots can run in 16x. You can run it in the 3rd of the GPU slots without issue. Thats pretty far down so


----------



## Wiz766

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Only the first and 3rd long PCIE slots can run in 16x. You can run it in the 3rd of the GPU slots without issue. Thats pretty far down so


Thanks!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> Does it matter what slot I run a single GPU for good performance. Right now I am in SLI but changing cards and going down to one. Can I run it in one of the lower PCIE slots(looks and airflow)


In terms of performance, no. Running in any of the physical x16 slotsbwill yield the same performance, x8 electrical is more than enough for graphics cards.


----------



## reev3r

Does any osu have any experience with XSPC customer service?

I contacted them regarding the no-contact issue with my R4BE block and the woman (I think, the name was Flora) responded asking what motherboard I was using, and to send images of the problem.

I told her that I am using the R4BE, and sent a photograph of the block, installed properly, not making contact with the thermal pad on the VRM's...

The response I then received, "The fittings you are using are not ours, please replace the fittings with our and see if the problem persists. Also, please send a photograph of the error on your screen.", I had alread said that my displays are blank and that the readout on the board is showing 00 and that the CPU_ERROR LED is illuminated, after this I responded explaining that, and also saying that the fittings are completely unrelated to the problem and that even with no fittings it is still an issue...

I have since not received a response, it has been two days now. I have sent multiple emails trying to get a response, but nothing has come through yet. Is this normal for XSPC, is there a particular person I should contact, or am I just hosed?

I am really quite disappointed by their support at this point, I have well over $5,000 worth of computer parts sitting idle because of an $80 block that I have yet to receive adequate support for. I have not had this kind of support since I had issues with my last internet connection and the ISP that didn't like to solve issues...

Ugh... Well, on the bright (also terrible and irritating side though), GTA V got pushed back to late March, so I don't need to rushv for that... Dang it Rockstar!!!


----------



## skupples

sounds about right for most watercooling companies. They will tell you that your entire system must be their product, including coolant, to make use of their warranty, SO if they ask what coolant you're using, tell them XSPC.


----------



## reev3r

Are you kidding me...? Ugh, this is ridiculous... I am beginning to think that water cooling is the worst possible solution, not because of the parts, but the companies... That would be like Asus saying, well, you're not using one of our graphics cards, sound cards and monitors, so we'll need you to try our products first before a warranty claim can be issued...


----------



## skupples

it's a last ditch effort, but contact the distributor you got the part from, & tell them that XSPC is ignoring you, then ask if they have a better contact solution.

then spam XSPC's email service.


----------



## Mega Man

agreed it is idiotic, i can tell you she is low level support

another solution would be to open up a new ticket and when asked for pics just take off the fittings !


----------



## SpecTRe-X

@reev3r You didn't know that fittings could cause so much trouble before now, did you?!

I feel bad for helping to steer you away from that monoblock now. It's so weird that you're having so much trouble with it.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> @reev3r You didn't know that fittings could cause so much trouble before now, did you?!
> 
> I feel bad for helping to steer you away from that monoblock now. It's so weird that you're having so much trouble with it.


Haha... I just think it is ridiculous that they would not actually listen to the issue and just blame the fittings instead of acknowledging that there is some flaw with the block...

As for steering me away from the monoblock, yeah... What the crap man?!?! I will gladly accept an EK block for my board as a gesture of good will and apology...


----------



## electro2u

And if you tell them that you were using all only xspc products they will probably want receipts. It's a particularly harsh industry about warranties... but I guess that is because it is very niche. All corporations are pretty cut throat about one thing or another but watercooling warranties seem almost non existent.


----------



## Neb9

How do I update this things bios? I have searched on the internet and found out how to do it for other versions of the rampage iv but not the rivbe. I have also looked through the bios and found nothing relating to updating the bios.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Haha... I just think it is ridiculous that they would not actually listen to the issue and just blame the fittings instead of acknowledging that there is some flaw with the block...
> 
> As for steering me away from the monoblock, yeah... What the crap man?!?! I will gladly accept an EK block for my board as a gesture of good will and apology...


Rotflmao Yeah, I'll be sure to get right on that!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> How do I update this things bios? I have searched on the internet and found out how to do it for other versions of the rampage iv but not the rivbe. I have also looked through the bios and found nothing relating to updating the bios.


Shut down the rig but don't unplug it
Place the bios file you wish to use on a USB drive. Make sure it's not in any folders.
The file should be named R4BE.cap
place it in the USB port labeled rog connect or something like that (see pics)


Hold down the RoG connect button until it flashes then release (#8 in above pics, button with 2 chain links on it)
Wait until the RoG connect button has stopped flashing and turn the computer on.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Rotflmao Yeah, I'll be sure to get right on that!


I figured that might be your response, I had to try though...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> How do I update this things bios? I have searched on the internet and found out how to do it for other versions of the rampage iv but not the rivbe. I have also looked through the bios and found nothing relating to updating the bios.










Dude its called ez flash 2 and its in the bios TOOLS>EZ FLASH 2 via usb . Its also in the hard BE manual that comes with the board and on the Asus BE website as a d/loaded pdf


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I figured that might be your response, I had to try though...


You can always send me the parts and tubing and I'll mount it for you though.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> You can always send me the parts and tubing and I'll mount it for you though.


I don't think I am *that* terrible at affixing a thing to another thing...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I don't think I am *that* terrible at affixing a thing to another thing...


I don't know man, that's not how it's looking from over here









I hope something comes of xspc support though, I've been in a spot like this with a previous vrm block myself.


----------



## reev3r

Haha... ~20yrs of building computers without incident, I have one incident and I suck!!! lol

I contacted them through a support email I found, so I am hoping I get a response from that... Really disappointed by their service at this point. Which is sad, because I actually preferred XSPC up to this point.


----------



## Neb9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude its called ez flash 2 and its in the bios TOOLS>EZ FLASH 2 via usb . Its also in the hard BE manual that comes with the board and on the Asus BE website as a d/loaded pdf


I only just noticed the small dot in the top right. I clicked that and installed the bios. Thanks.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I don't think I am *that* terrible at affixing a thing to another thing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> *I don't know man, that's not how it's looking from over here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> I hope something comes of xspc support though, I've been in a spot like this with a previous vrm block myself.
Click to expand...

LooooooL








Do u really need a vrm block ??


----------



## reev3r

. @
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> LooooooL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do u really need a vrm block ??


*Need* Well, perhaps not from a purely technical standpoint, but given the money I spent on it, as well as how ridiculously *hot* the heatsink gets, it is one of the motivating factors for the block. I did not get it by any means for the chipset, since it is barely any warmer than my hand at its hottest, the VRM/MOSFET sink gets uncomfortably warm by comparison, and again, it is THE reason for getting the block at all...

Which sucks, I would be mostly okay with ditching the Chipset block if that were the issue, sadly it isn't.









At this point I am going to continue trying to resolve this on my own, since obviously XSPC isn't giving any dookers... (Where is the *steaming pile of poop* emoticon??? - Just sayin')


----------



## reev3r

"Good news everyone!"

-Professor Farnsworth

Alright, so after some more efforts to get it working... Some success... I tried a few times and kept getting the same error. so I pulled the block to see if it would POST at all like it would before without the block, nope... So I put the stock heatsink back on, nope... So I thought whatever... I walked away, came back a few minutes later and pulled the GPU and half way through putting it away and thinking about calling Asus I thought "One last ditch effort...", and reassembled everything, my normal steps for this being to clear both UEFI, and try both UEFI, just to be thorough. So I cleared them, installed the GPU, and powered on... POST!

So I pulled the stock heatsink, put the block on loosely (not enough to cool the VRM/MOSFET), and POST. So I tightened the block enough to get it secure, powered on, and for THE FIRST TIME, I got POST!

So I am presently in the process of reassembling everything to see if it is working now... Unfortunately, I don't know what the problem is/was, as I did not change anything that I've done, and the block is installed *exactly* the way it was before (unless of course it is ~2mm different or something lol), so it bums me out that I don't know if it will work temporarily like it did at first and then fail again, but here's to hoping!!!


----------



## reev3r

Well, it's running! It was terribly finnicky, but after some tweaks with the tightness, she is running... Now I can only hope for longer than last time!


----------



## CryptiK

Huh, that's weird man. You were getting CPU related codes but reseating the graphics card and remounting the block rectified the issue, very unexpected. Good luck then hope it holds!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Huh, that's weird man. You were getting CPU related codes but reseating the graphics card and remounting the block rectified the issue, very unexpected. Good luck then hope it holds!


Oh no, you don't understand... lol

I have disassembled EVERYTHING on this board about twelve times... I have repeatedly pulled the block off, repeatedly disassembled/reassembled everything, that incleds using a box as a test bench, using my removable motherboard tray as a test bench, and any time it would work, I would reassemble everything and install it, only to have it then not work, which meant draining my loop, pulling everything apart, and starting over...

It has been a ridiculous ride this. The only unfortunate part, is that the last time I was just testing, getting ready to call Asus, thinking maybe to just have the board replaced, and it worked, but I had pulled the block off the CPU, cleaned the CPU off and removed it, and then just to test it I put the block back on with the thermal paste that it still had on it, but since it worked I just said piss on it, I didn't want to pull it apart again just to reapply a 'clean' line of paste... I half expected bad temps, but my loop is at its typical trickle, and temps are where they always are, so it clearly hasn't affected it at all...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Glad you *finally* got it working right. Here's to hoping it stays working right!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Glad you *finally* got it working right. Here's to hoping it stays working right!


Oh no, I didn't get it working right... I would consider that when you actually sort the problem out... I have no idea what the problem is/was, so I would say it's just working right, for now...

I suspect that I simply have a very sensitive board, and that the slight tension of the block is what caused the fault, because I had to find the absolute perfect tightness, and in addition the board is not screwed in with all screws, several of them were also causing the fault, so that is my guess on the matter...


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> It really depends on what you want it for. 200 is a good deal for a 500 retail board but it's still 200 you may not need to spend. Day to day you likely won't see much or any performance boost unless you're getting it to really OC your cpu.
> 
> That said the x79 saber I worked with was a solid board and is still running well in the rig I built for a friend.


Thanks Spectre for the response. I finally gave in and purchased the RIVEBE for $199.96 from MC. I don't know how much of an OC will I get since my 3930K is already @4.65ghz using Sabertooth X79. I contemplated for a while since my board and OC is rock stable, but decided to buy it anyway since I miss using tri sli configuration. It looks ******ed with Sabertooth because of all the sli bridges being crisscross.

Anyway I think its a good buy since I will also be getting a $50 rebate from Asus. I will post some pics once I get the replacement O-rings for my H220 from swiftech and the Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme that I ordered from Amazon.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Probably get 4.8GHz now on that 3930k. Not really worth $200. But I'd do the same thing that you did.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude its called ez flash 2 and its in the bios TOOLS>EZ FLASH 2 via usb . Its also in the hard BE manual that comes with the board and on the Asus BE website as a d/loaded pdf






to be fair, the directions in the manual are woefully inadequate, as they don't cover having to name the bios something specific. For this it's R4BE.w/e

I had to use a video from Tek Syndicate to get the proper directions, when I was trying to flash both bios w/o booting into the bios (recovering from zero day Cryptowall 2.0 attack paranoia)


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Probably get 4.8GHz now on that 3930k. Not really worth $200. But I'd do the same thing that you did.


I hope so







because on my old RIVE I have the same OC result before. Once all is said and done, Sabertooth X79 is going to ebay to recoup some moolah. And the 6 months no interest sweeten the deal from MC


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> I hope so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because on my old RIVE I have the same OC result before. Once all is said and done, Sabertooth X79 is going to ebay to recoup some moolah. And the 6 months no interest sweeten the deal from MC


sigh, I hope I can get a few benjis out of this 3930k, since Intel refused to honor tuning plan. It's not dead, not by a long shot, I was just hoping I could cash in my tuning plan, then sell it as BNIB, but now I have to sell it as used









protip, intel... since you're totally not listening... The information on the IHS that you want so badly? REQUEST IT AT PURCHASE OF WARRANTY, instead of @ reclamation of warranty. You know, so that the end user actually knows that information is needed at time of purchase, since the IHS markings were already gone by the time I picked up the tuning plan. You claim to do this for overclockers, yet void warranty if someone uses a scotch bright pad to clean crappy TIM off of the IHS... amazing! Claim the only way to authenticate the processor is the IHS markings... Really? then what is this giant 15 character laser etch on the PCB for? Funniest bit, I could have drenched this chip in LN2, and they would'a replaced it, as long as the IHS markings were legible.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> sigh, I hope I can get a few benjis out of this 3930k, since Intel refused to honor tuning plan. It's not dead, not by a long shot, I was just hoping I could cash in my tuning plan, then sell it as BNIB, but now I have to sell it as used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> protip, intel... since you're totally not listening... The information on the IHS that you want so badly? REQUEST IT AT PURCHASE OF WARRANTY, instead of @ reclamation of warranty. You claim to do this for overclockers, yet void warranty if someone uses a scotch bright pad to clean crappy TIM off of the IHS... amazing! Claim the only way to authenticate the processor is the IHS markings... Really? then what is this giant 15 character laser etch on the PCB for?


Sorry to hear about intel not honoring the tuning plan.

Here's the mobo that I just recently purchased:


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Sorry to hear about intel not honoring the tuning plan.
> 
> Here's the mobo that I just recently purchased:






selavi!

I thought I would be able to break even on this 4930k, but i'll be lucky to get $200 for this chip, me thinks.

either way. Welcome to the club! Whatever you do, don't use scotch bright, or lap your CPU if you want to use tuning plan!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neb9*
> 
> I only just noticed the small dot in the top right. I clicked that and installed the bios. Thanks.


Sweet









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> to be fair, the directions in the manual are woefully inadequate, as they don't cover having to name the bios something specific. For this it's R4BE.w/e
> 
> I had to use a video from Tek Syndicate to get the proper directions, when I was trying to flash both bios w/o booting into the bios (recovering from zero day Cryptowall 2.0 attack paranoia)


Its the same procedure as the RIVE and the R4F . I should of typed it out then to explain a tad better .
Put bios on usb key go to tools > ezy flash 2 > look for bios file > press enter . Simples


----------



## anti-clockwize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Part of it might also be how you're reading it. It can be hard explaining things to people, being informative without talking over someone's head while also not coming off as condescending. If you're watching 20 or so threads while doing things irl it can be hard to take the time to sit and balance the two. Sometimes it doesn't even matter how much time you take wording your reply because the person reading it still won't like how you said it. On the whole it's better than some others I've been and the only way you really get a friendlier one is if it's a very small and tight-knit forum where everyone knows everyone else. In my opinion at least.
> Perhaps it's how certain games or most games implement FoV. Possibly even to the extent of tying different FoV sizes to different resolutions. Personally I'd like all games to have FoV sliders that are independent of your desired res but it's been claimed in the past that higher FoVs are viewed as cheating to certain game publishers *cough* EA *cough*. lol
> More or less my take on this.
> My bad then bud, it came off as being too critical. Don't worry though, I'd never judge you for running twin 670s on a 1050p display
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. I think mine is just regular LRT since it's been in here a while and I bought a good ~15-25' when first laying out this loop. I've seen this happen naturally with tygon and lrt that has been in a loop a long time but the rapid cooling had me worried. Anyway, thanks again.


I fully agree mate, definitely how you read it can change everything. But I also stand by my comment.


----------



## anti-clockwize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> To be honest I've found exactly the opposite. Could be luck of the draw but I've asked questions and received meaningful responses I found helpful. Same in this thread since i just very recently bought this motherboard. I do tend to be tolerant and assume the best rather than the worst as my take on skupps comment demonstrates, and I'm not often wrong - remember tone does not come across in written text ert effectively. some tend to get bent right out of shape really quick over little things whereas I don't. I mean it's a community and you'll have a normal distribution of attitudes in here. Some absolute tools, majority indifferent but generally interested, and some super helpful guys. Maybe you've more often encountered the lower end of the spectrum!


I do have to say I haven't been here long, it's just my initial impression. But those tend to last a while, and also, if that's the impression to new users, you might not see as many new additions to this forum that stay active after the first few posts...

I will correct my statement and say that not _everyone_ is acting this way. I just like to discuss things, and not be shut down, with "why would you bother", or "that's so old why are you even talking about it", or just "you can't do that". Those sort of answers don't stimulate discussion, new thoughts or any sort of progress.


----------



## anti-clockwize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-clockwize*
> 
> I do have to say I haven't been here long, it's just my initial impression. But those tend to last a while, and also, if that's the impression to new users, you might not see as many new additions to this forum that stay active after the first few posts...
> 
> I will correct my statement and say that not _everyone_ is acting this way. I just like to discuss things, and not be shut down, with "why would you bother", or "that's so old why are you even talking about it", or just "you can't do that". Those sort of answers don't stimulate discussion, new thoughts or any sort of progress.


I tend to look around for a few hours on google before i post a question, because I don't like it when someone can answer my question with a link that has come from the first results page of a Google search. :\


----------



## CryptiK

I just have to ask guys - what is the lowest vcore you have ever seen required for 4.5GHz full AVX load stable (LinX, P95 after v26.6) on a 4960X? Or any IVY-E if 4960X is too specific.


----------



## reev3r

Well, back to square one, as I feared... System worked fine, restarted several times, then it ran for quite a while, gaming, benchmarks, etc. However, I just restarted it to make some changes with my overclock, and that was all she wrote, same thing again. Tried both UEFI, and also tried resetting both and tried again, to no avail. So, as sad as it is, I am thinking to try to RMA the board... Clearly there is a fault with it somewhere, and I am tired of trying to figure this out for over a week now.

My only concern at this point, is that when I first got the board I noticed a 'chip' on one of the components, I was so excited about getting the board and building my badass system that I installed it to try it anyway, and everything worked, so I figured, "Meh, the board works, an RMA would be a waste of time", so I didn't. I had completely forgot about it until I went to remove the stock heatsink over the PCH, and noticed it. Now I need to RMA the board and I am concerned that it will prevent them from honoring the warranty.

Crappidy crap crap. Should have just contacted them the moment I saw that darn damage... That's what I get for being excited and wanting to use it instead of being logical.


----------



## CryptiK

Sucks dude







Photos of the chipped component if you're able?

Picked up a new CPU, swapped a local guy my 4960X for his plus some cash his way. Haven't tweaked PLL or VTT, just vcore only at the moment. Working my way down, not sure how low I can go yet.

All cores 4.5GHz @ 1.232v full AVX load stable 4.25 hours


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-clockwize*
> 
> I tend to look around for a few hours on google before i post a question, because I don't like it when someone can answer my question with a link that has come from the first results page of a Google search. :\


I need to do this moar , but im lazy









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Well, back to square one, as I feared... System worked fine, restarted several times, then it ran for quite a while, gaming, benchmarks, etc. However, I just restarted it to make some changes with my overclock, and that was all she wrote, same thing again. Tried both UEFI, and also tried resetting both and tried again, to no avail. So, as sad as it is, I am thinking to try to RMA the board... Clearly there is a fault with it somewhere, and I am tired of trying to figure this out for over a week now.
> 
> My only concern at this point, is that when I first got the board I noticed a 'chip' on one of the components, I was so excited about getting the board and building my badass system that I installed it to try it anyway, and everything worked, so I figured, "Meh, the board works, an RMA would be a waste of time", so I didn't. I had completely forgot about it until I went to remove the stock heatsink over the PCH, and noticed it. Now I need to RMA the board and I am concerned that it will prevent them from honoring the warranty.
> 
> Crappidy crap crap. Should have just contacted them the moment I saw that darn damage... That's what I get for being excited and wanting to use it instead of being logical.


Damn man










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Sucks dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Photos of the chipped component if you're able?
> 
> Picked up a new CPU, swapped a local guy my 4960X for his plus some cash his way. Haven't tweaked PLL or VTT, just vcore only at the moment. Working my way down, not sure how low I can go yet.
> 
> All cores 4.5GHz @ 1.232v full AVX load stable 4.25 hours


Looks good , but whats the imc like







time to clock those drams eh


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Damn man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good , but whats the imc like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> time to clock those drams eh


Best gif for confused over board shenanigans. Poor Reever, sucks when stuff is sometimes broken sometimes not. What's weird though, is that it was fine, for what 1 year? Then as soon as you fit block it's playing up. Doesn't mean it's the cause, but it's odd nonetheless.

This chip is kinda amazing. IMC is brilliant







It's running 2133 9-11-10 1T on 1.05VCCSA and I haven't tried to reduce it yet. Not sure I need to speed the ram up man, I'm getting 62K bandwidth in AidA64 as it is


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Best gif for confused over board shenanigans. Poor Reever, sucks when stuff is sometimes broken sometimes not. What's weird though, is that it was fine, for what 1 year? Then as soon as you fit block it's playing up. Doesn't mean it's the cause, but it's odd nonetheless.
> 
> This chip is kinda amazing. IMC is brilliant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's running 2133 9-11-10 1T on 1.05VCCSA and I haven't tried to reduce it yet. Not sure I need to speed the ram up man, I'm getting 62K bandwidth in AidA64 as it is


I stole it








As long as my R4G , RIVE and BE are still covered by warranty , I will never block the vrms for that reason . Just in case
I need much moar vscca and dram volts for 2800mhz


----------



## CryptiK

2800MHz rams lel much bandwidth many MB/s wow

How much vcore does your 4960X need for 4.5 man? On water if you know, not phase, that's cheating


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anti-clockwize*
> 
> I tend to look around for a few hours on google before i post a question, because I don't like it when someone can answer my question with a link that has come from the first results page of a Google search. :\










I'm a total dick at work in this regard. I hand out LMGTFY stickers to people that ask easily found questions. (Help desk)


----------



## SpecTRe-X

@anti-clockwize There _is_ a multiquote button man.


----------



## seross69

Could someone link me to a overclocking guide for this board??


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> 2800MHz rams lel much bandwidth many MB/s wow
> 
> How much vcore does your 4960X need for 4.5 man? On water if you know, not phase, that's cheating


1.28 - 1.31vc on chilled water . Depends on the dram speed too . No phase or -c temps cause that's extreme cooling in my books . Regardless if water or not .









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a total dick at work in this regard. I hand out LMGTFY stickers to people that ask easily found questions. (Help desk)


I thinks you would be red carding me ALOT . You might LoooooL a bit now cause what dafuq is LMGTFY ??

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Could someone link me to a overclocking guide for this board??


I don't have a link but you could try the ROG forums . Its similar to SB-E overclocking


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Could someone link me to a overclocking guide for this board??


These should help

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44467-Overclocking-Tips-Beginner-and-Advanced-Guide-to-Overclocking/page3

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Ivy-Bridge-E-Easy-Overclocking-Guide-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition/page11
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 1.28 - 1.31vc on chilled water . Depends on the dram speed too . No phase or -c temps cause that's extreme cooling in my books . Regardless if water or not .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thinks you would be red carding me ALOT . You might LoooooL a bit now cause what dafuq is LMGTFY ??
> I don't have a link but you could try the ROG forums . Its similar to SB-E overclocking


Thanks mate.


----------



## skupples

LMGTFY = let me google that for you.

not sure if it's an actual google website or not, but...

it allows you to send someone a shortened link which shows a cursor pulling up google, typing in the question, then showing "There was that so hard?" then shows the search results.

http://bit.ly/vXtvlP

you also have the "Let me google that for you act"

Code:



Code:


Shown Here:
Introduced in Senate (04/03/2014)

Let Me Google That For You Act - Repeals the National Technical Information Act of 1988, effective one year after the enactment of this Act (thus abolishes the National Technical Information Service [NTIS]).

Directs: (1) the Secretary of Commerce, the Archivist of the United States, the Comptroller General (GAO), and the Commissioner of Social Security to consult with the Director of the Office of Management and Budget (OMB) to determine if any NTIS function is critical to the U.S. economy; (2) the Comptroller General to determine which of any such critical functions are not being carried out by any other agency or instrumentality of the federal government; and (3) the Secretary of Commerce, prior to the effective date of this Act, to submit to the House Committee on Energy and Commerce and the Senate Committee on Finance a written certification that all NTIS operations have been terminated.

which abolished the " National Technical Information Service [NTIS])."


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Its been a learning weekend , thanks


----------



## skupples




----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> You might LoooooL a bit now cause what dafuq is LMGTFY ??


hurr derrr derp hurr


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> hurr derrr derp hurr


----------



## CryptiK




----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Sucks dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Photos of the chipped component if you're able?


Image of chipped component:



I do have a question for everyone, is Asus going to care about the thermal paste on the PCH, or will they not inspect it? Additionally, if they will does anybody know where to obtain a replacement that will match?


----------



## CryptiK

Looks like an inductor in the mem VRM area? That chip would reduce it's current carrying capacity, but probably not take out the whole component. Every had ram issues? Does your mobo work if you set say DDR31333 speeds?

Doing some testing, 4.5GHz/2133CL9 stable LinX 20 pass with all ram @ 1.232 vcore


----------



## reev3r

I had the thought that it may be an inductor, but I am not sufficiently experienced in ALL inductors to have been certain.

Regarding memory issues, nope never had any problem with memory. I installed it and ran it at 1333 for maybe a month when I first got it, then after doing some tinkering realized that and changed it to the XMP 1600 1.35v profile and it's worked fine the whole time. Even had it over locked slightly for a short while during some strap based overclocking.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I do have a question for everyone, is Asus going to care about the thermal paste on the PCH, or will they not inspect it? Additionally, if they will does anybody know where to obtain a replacement that will match?


It looked a lot like arctic silver ceramic when I pulled mine apart. As long as it's a close color match I doubt they'll run it under a mass spec or do a chemical workup on it


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> It looked a lot like arctic silver ceramic when I pulled mine apart. As long as it's a close color match I doubt they'll run it under a mass spec or do a chemical workup on it


The gunk I had on my PCH was like a shiny pink wax... It was aa PITA to remove from the actual chip. I have seen it used on laptops before, and it was perfectly square, as if it was a pad applied and then cured somehow.


----------



## electro2u

There is no warranty issue with removing the stock heatsinks and replacing the thermal interface. Likewise if you state the damaged component was there when you bought the board it will not be considered an issue in my experience. I recently RMA'd an open box Essence Stx sound card that had a messed up resistor or something on it, had been attempted to remove and was jammed when I received it, card quit working after a few months I sent a picture of the damaged component along with my rma and stated it was like that when I received it and was not my doing. Asus sent me a retail packaged card back.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> There is no warranty issue with removing the stock heatsinks and replacing the thermal interface. Likewise if you state the damaged component was there when you bought the board it will not be considered an issue in my experience. I recently RMA'd an open box Essence Stx sound card that had a messed up resistor or something on it, had been attempted to remove and was jammed when I received it, card quit working after a few months I sent a picture of the damaged component along with my rma and stated it was like that when I received it and was not my doing. Asus sent me a retail packaged card back.


Well, my only concern with that is that it was an open box item... I guess I do not know enough about how that sort of thing is dealt with. It's just my fear that I will send it to them as an advance RMA and they will end up charging me the cost of the replacement, and given my current circumstances I simply cannot afford that. I guess, even if I do a normal RMA, I will have wasted the money to send it to them, in addition, if I replace the block with the stock heatsink and they are not able to reproduce the problem, then that sucks too... Ugh, I really believe that I should have just gone with the EK block, since it seems that those are made to a more precise specification... Perhaps I should attempt to return this block to FrozenCPU and get the EK block as a replacement.

I really feel there is just no winning in this... Then again, I could just go back to the damned stock heatsink and deal with the ridiculous heat it is outputting...


----------



## reev3r

Does anybody have an R4BE they are willing to trade? This one works fine with the stock unit on it, just not with the water block... Other than the present issue with installing a cheap block, it has been rock solid since I bought it in November of 2013... Not one single issue, never had to even so much as switch the UEFI, or reset it. It has been, without question the single most stable and reliable board I have ever owned.

I suspect the likely answer is no, but hey, it never hurts to try, right...


----------



## CryptiK

You're in a tight spot. You have an otherwise reliable board, but installing this seemingly ill-fitting block has caused you no end of drama. I'd honestly suggest you go back to stock cooling, return or sell the current block, save up for a new (or trawl for a used) EK block set then install that and enjoy water cooling.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> You're in a tight spot. You have an otherwise reliable board, but installing this seemingly ill-fitting block has caused you no end of drama. I'd honestly suggest you go back to stock cooling, return or sell the current block, save up for a new (or trawl for a used) EK block set then install that and enjoy water cooling.


Indeed. I have been going through the possible options in my mind, and so far the return it for an exchange/credit is about the best solution. My other fear is that I install the stock cooler, and somehow that one starts to act up due to the block having done something to the board, loosened a chip or something, despite there being no physical damage, and none of the chips *feel* loose to me, I simply can not figure out how it is happening, and it bothers me... Anybody with access to an X-Ray machine? I could get an X-Ray of it and see if anything is out of place, or there is a short or something when the block is installed vs. when it isn't... lol

Regardless, I do also fear that if the block is causing problems as it stands, then surely there is something 'incorrect' about the board, and how long until it actually goes south with the stock cooler on it... Just another concern of mine, and why I am interested in simply replacing the board vai RMA, then perhaps the replacement would work fine with the block on it...

Come on, I KNOW one of you has access to one... 

It sucks, I wasn't really considering cooling the board a few months ago when I saw a full EK block in the marketplace for like $75 I think it was, I really wanted to justify it, but that was before I noticed just how much heat was being produced... Well, at least I got *most* of my other cooling gear in the forums for good deals...

Hopefully someone has one they want to get rid of that I can get for a good price. We'll see in time how this all plays out.

Anyhow, I am broke right now, so it will not be but a couple weeks before I can even consider getting all of this taken care of...

Thank you all for your support and guidance, and the occasional humor here and there, despite the situation.


----------



## skupples

ouch, cracked right in half.

have a steady hand? soldering those on is actually pretty easy.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> The gunk I had on my PCH was like a shiny pink wax... It was aa PITA to remove from the actual chip. I have seen it used on laptops before, and it was perfectly square, as if it was a pad applied and then cured somehow.


Ah, I ran into that stuff on an old 750i board a while back. Had to clean the chip with a toothpick!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Well, my only concern with that is that it was an open box item... I guess I do not know enough about how that sort of thing is dealt with. It's just my fear that I will send it to them as an advance RMA and they will end up charging me the cost of the replacement, and given my current circumstances I simply cannot afford that. I guess, even if I do a normal RMA, I will have wasted the money to send it to them, in addition, if I replace the block with the stock heatsink and they are not able to reproduce the problem, then that sucks too... Ugh, I really believe that I should have just gone with the EK block, since it seems that those are made to a more precise specification... Perhaps I should attempt to return this block to FrozenCPU and get the EK block as a replacement.
> 
> I really feel there is just no winning in this... Then again, I could just go back to the damned stock heatsink and deal with the ridiculous heat it is outputting...


Have you tried each block on its own? Maybe add some pics of the bottom of the blocks, fresh eyes and all.

Exchanging the block will likely be cheaper than paying for a bad board in advanced RMA, at least that way you have an idea of what to expect.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ouch, cracked right in half.
> 
> have a steady hand? soldering those on is actually pretty easy.


He's having issues attaching a waterblock and you want him to *solder*?!









Now that I think of it, couldn't you get some smaller passive heat sinks and put them on the stock vrm cooler with a fan blowing on them to help bring temps down? Part of the problem with the stock cooler is that it lacks fins, it's more or less just a block of metal.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well, my only concern with that is that it was an open box item... I guess I do not know enough about how that sort of thing is dealt with. It's just my fear that I will send it to them as an advance RMA and they will end up charging me the cost of the replacement, and given my current circumstances I simply cannot afford that. I guess, even if I do a normal RMA, I will have wasted the money to send it to them, in addition, if I replace the block with the stock heatsink and they are not able to reproduce the problem, then that sucks too... Ugh, I really believe that I should have just gone with the EK block, since it seems that those are made to a more precise specification... Perhaps I should attempt to return this block to FrozenCPU and get the EK block as a replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> I really feel there is just no winning in this... Then again, *I could just go back to the damned stock heatsink and deal with the ridiculous heat it is outputting...*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, I ran into that stuff on an old 750i board a while back. Had to clean the chip with a toothpick!
> Have you tried each block on its own? Maybe add some pics of the bottom of the blocks, fresh eyes and all.
> 
> Exchanging the block will likely be cheaper than paying for a bad board in advanced RMA, at least that way you have an idea of what to expect.
> He's having issues attaching a waterblock and you want him to *solder*?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Now that I think of it, couldn't you get some smaller passive heat sinks and put them on the stock vrm cooler with a fan blowing on them to help bring temps down? Part of the problem with the stock cooler is that it lacks fins, it's more or less just a block of metal.*
Click to expand...

THIS ^^^^^^^^^

heatsinks on backplate and a fan on the front works better than vrm block . I will never do this vrm block modd while under warranty


----------



## skupples

better? no. Easier? yes.

VRMs running @ a nice and cool 35C when the board is pretty well loaded. Would love to see some microsinks do that.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ouch, cracked right in half.
> 
> have a steady hand? soldering those on is actually pretty easy.


I had considered that, but finding one by the part number yielded nothing... Perhaps I was looking in the wrong places, any suggestions?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Maybe add some pics of the bottom of the blocks, fresh eyes and all.


Will post an image shortly...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Exchanging the block will likely be cheaper than paying for a bad board in advanced RMA, at least that way you have an idea of what to expect.


Yeah, I have been thinking about that, and given the circumstances it would be better to not only exchange/replace the block, but also to do a normal RMA if it comes to that, so as to prevent any issues with paying for the board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> He's having issues attaching a waterblock and you want him to *solder*?!


There is a chipped *inductor* on the board, he was suggesting for me to replace it before the RMA... 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Now that I think of it, couldn't you get some smaller passive heat sinks and put them on the stock vrm cooler with a fan blowing on them to help bring temps down? Part of the problem with the stock cooler is that it lacks fins, it's more or less just a block of metal.


Unfortunately, to me, this is a sloppy 'solution', indeed not a solution at all for me now. Granted, on any other rig I would resort to this, but not this one. For several reasons. Number one, my goal in this build is to be silent, and I fear adding fans and heatsinks all over would defeat the *insert ridiculous amount here* I have spent to liquid cool this thing.

Additionally, it would completely destroy the clean, 'professional' aesthetic I am going for. This is meant to be a rig I am proud of, and I fear that would, again, undermine that objective. That being said, if it were any other rig it would be a perfectly viable solution to me.  I thank you for the suggestions!

Unfortunately, without knowing Asus would honor the warranty beforehand and without knowing that the XSPC block itself is the cause, and getting an EK will fix it, places me in an odd situation, either way I may get hosed, as I don't *want* the EK block, and if it does the same thing I am out the money for it, not to mention the restocking fee I am certain FrozenCPU will charge me... So I will have spent twice as much not only on an item I don't necessarily want, but something that is causing the same issue anyhow...

Anyhow, the block is really the most logical place to start at this point...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> better? no. Easier? yes.
> 
> VRMs running @ a nice and cool 35C when the board is pretty well loaded. Would love to see some microsinks do that.


Indeed, when it was running I was able to feel the block and the general area, it was much, much cooler than my fingers, which is clearly a scientific measurement for working splendidly...

The thing I find most peculiar, is that the system would run fine for hours and hours, during stress tests, gaming, benchmarks, opening Chrome (a particularly stressful task on my rigs, the only thing that will actually cause it to lock up for several moments), all without issue, and then when I restart it gives me an issue... I know it is doing a self-check, but even so you would think the issue would present during use as well...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> better? no. Easier? yes.
> 
> VRMs running @ a nice and cool 35C when the board is pretty well loaded. Would love to see some microsinks do that.


To be fair I had something more along the lines of this or a few of these in mind








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Unfortunately, to me, this is a sloppy 'solution', indeed not a solution at all for me now. Granted, on any other rig I would resort to this, but not this one. For several reasons. Number one, my goal in this build is to be silent, and I fear adding fans and heatsinks all over would defeat the *insert ridiculous amount here* I have spent to liquid cool this thing.
> 
> Unfortunately, without knowing Asus would honor the warranty beforehand and without knowing that the XSPC block itself is the cause, and getting an EK will fix it, places me in an odd situation, either way I may get hosed, as I don't *want* the EK block, and if it does the same thing I am out the money for it, not to mention the restocking fee I am certain FrozenCPU will charge me... So I will have spent twice as much not only on an item I don't necessarily want, but something that is causing the same issue anyhow...
> 
> The thing I find most peculiar, is that the system would run fine for hours and hours, during stress tests, gaming, benchmarks, opening Chrome (a particularly stressful task on my rigs, the only thing that will actually cause it to lock up for several moments), all without issue, and then when I restart it gives me an issue... I know it is doing a self-check, but even so you would think the issue would present during use as well...


Well, I never said it would be perfect. lol

You could always call asus and ask, which would save the initial shipping cost should they say they won't warranty it. What do you think of the EK equivalent of the xspc set? What you could do is buy both the monoblock and the EK equivalent, see which set works (if any) and return the ones that don't. You still get stuck with restocking and have a rather large initial cost but it would be a nice broad stroke in terms of showing what options you have in blocks. Obviously if someone could lend you said EK sets to test that would be better but I wouldn't speculate as to how likely that is.

Aren't the self-checks supposed to be fairly stressful? Maybe it's testing the board in a way the stress tests you run aren't......somehow.


----------



## electro2u

Reev3r. I'll sell my monoblock to you if you want it. But only because I want to switch to a copper kit not because I don't like the monoblock. I don't like how my copper gpu blocks don't match my nickel stuff everywhere else. I know it wouldn't be for a few weeks at least but it's not for sale technically and it is just sitting here while I slowly work on the case. If it were me I think I would send the block back if fcpu will let you but times ticking away and they might not do it.

I'm wondering if your board is having an issue with temperature changes.


----------



## Kidlat

You know you could dip that monoblock in an acid bath to wash away the nickel plating and reveal the copper block underneath.


----------



## Kidlat

Double post, sorry


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kidlat*
> 
> You know you could dip that monoblock in an acid bath to wash away the nickel plating and reveal the copper block underneath.


Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Would that work?? That's rep worthy. +1 for the possible solution to my issue. I'd much prefer a copper monoblock than a separate kit but they didn't make one.


----------



## Kidlat

I've done that with a couple of waterblocks I've had before, just take the waterblock to a car painting shop and have it dipped in an acid bath (the one they use to remove chrome plating on cars).


----------



## reev3r

As much as I would prefer for you to sell me the blocks, you could certainly have the plating removed, and probably do it yourself with either some toilet bowl cleaner, or some other consumer grade acid, surely a Google search would yield some information. As well I would suggest buying some aluminum polish (I use Mother's brand), and polish the copper, because it will be terrible looking after the acid wash...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kidlat*
> 
> You know you could dip that monoblock in an acid bath to wash away the nickel plating and reveal the copper block underneath.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Would that work?? That's rep worthy. +1 for the possible solution to my issue. I'd much prefer a copper monoblock than a separate kit but they didn't make one.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a goodun idea . That would look pretty , pretty would match my xspc blocks .

But then again my rig is covered in insulation so no , maybe not .


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> That sounds like a goodun idea . That would look pretty , pretty would match my xspc blocks .
> 
> But then again my rig is covered in insulation so no , maybe not .


It really is a cool idea. I love the look of copper. Unfortunately I got 2 flames on the same day I got divorce papers so I'm going to be selling off my r4be rig and the Waterblock will go to r33ver. =(
If anyone wants one of these boards set up for a vrm block (heatpipe removed and plastidipped dark matte black on the i/o cover) let me know.


----------



## Mega Man

sorry to hear man :/


----------



## skupples

I'd definitely keep the flames.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'd definitely keep the flames.


You know how it goes, she gets one of them. =P


----------



## reev3r

Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If anyone wants one of these boards set up for a vrm block (heatpipe removed and plastidipped dark matte black on the i/o cover) let me know.


I was re-reading some of this, and I was curious about the I/O cover, I wanted to pull mine apart, but did not want to further any potential complications with the warranty... Are you looking to sell the I/O shield, or a whole motherboard with the I/O shield separate?


----------



## electro2u

Doesn't really matter. The i/o shield is pretty nice. I can trade it to you for your entire heatsink assembly if you want. Probably make it easier for me to sell the board and harder for you so think it over. Many people completely remove the i/o shield instead of opting to remove the heat pipe. I have the original vrm heatsink as well for trading


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Doesn't really matter. The i/o shield is pretty nice. I can trade it to you for your entire heatsink assembly if you want. Probably make it easier for me to sell the board and harder for you so think it over. Many people completely remove the i/o shield instead of opting to remove the heat pipe. I have the original vrm heatsink as well for trading


Frankly, I was just hoping for the I/O cover, but it hadn't occurred to me that you also need to sell it with the board.


----------



## falb0ner

Hello everyone

i'm currently finishing my water loop with my RIVE and i was wondering if watercooling the north & south bridge is NECESSARY when overclocking? i see EK makes 2 blocks for each bridge and i'm not sure if the extra ~$130 is worth it? Will i be fine with the standard heatsinks and good air flow? i plan on pushing this setup (with a 4930k) and i'm looking for input as this is my 1st watercooled system.


----------



## electro2u

I meant the i/o cover not shield. The black heatsink thing =) well they are grayish and this one is plastidipped black. It's removable.
Yah can't really separate them without a replacement heatsink assembly


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falb0ner*
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> i'm currently finishing my water loop with my RIVE and i was wondering if watercooling the north & south bridge is NECESSARY when overclocking? i see EK makes 2 blocks for each bridge and i'm not sure if the extra ~$130 is worth it? Will i be fine with the standard heatsinks and good air flow? i plan on pushing this setup (with a 4930k) and i'm looking for input as this is my 1st watercooled system.


for the southbridge/chipset, absolutely not.

For the northbridge/VRMs/Mosfets, it can add a slight bit of stability, but NO it is not a necessary requirement, in any way shape or form.

The south bridge block might as well be for show. Yes, it cuts temps in half, but I've yet to see anyone prove a perceivable benefit from doing so.


----------



## falb0ner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> for the southbridge/chipset, absolutely not.
> 
> For the northbridge/VRMs/Mosfets, it can add a slight bit of stability, but NO it is not a necessary requirement, in any way shape or form.
> 
> The south bridge block might as well be for show. Yes, it cuts temps in half, but I've yet to see anyone prove a perceivable benefit from doing so.


thanks for your input. I've had problems with VRMs in the past (on my crappy old AsRock z77) with stability issues, but that's also because they use cheap controllers and i didn't want to run into the same problem.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falb0ner*
> 
> thanks for your input. I've had problems with VRMs in the past (on my crappy old AsRock z77) with stability issues, but that's also because they use cheap controllers and i didn't want to run into the same problem.


some airflow over the north bridge will be more than enough for most situations.


----------



## Duke976

Finally got the motherboard installed and up an running. I have tried the same settings from my Sabertooth X79 but it doesn't seems to work and was met with constant restart







I have been playing with the board for about two hours to get this board stable. I have to raise *CPU Current Capability to 150%* for it to be stable at the same 4.6ghz that I have with my saber. Saber was only using 130 and it was stable.

Also my 1st PCI-E slot is stuck at 8x, I have changed it with my other cards but it seems to be stuck at 8x while the others are 16x. Hopefully you can shed some light to my little dilemma. Thanks


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> some airflow over the *north bridge* will be more than enough for most situations.


You mean VRM on this platform don't ya


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> You mean VRM on this platform don't ya


indeed, but it seems these old terms have shifted/stuck even though they don't really exist anymore.

I'm guessing it's due to the heat pipe.... it resides on the north end of the board, & connects two objects, like a bridge, boom north bridge!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> indeed, but it seems these old terms have shifted/stuck even though they don't really exist anymore.
> 
> I'm guessing it's due to the heat pipe.... it resides on the north end of the board, & connects two objects, like a bridge, boom north bridge!


Works for me


----------



## Duke976

I guess I might have to return this board after all. 1st pci-e slot is stuck at 2.0 at 8x







No Amount of bios flashback, swapping cards and force-enable-gen3 seems to work to get it to run 16x.

I will probably scout some RIVEBE later. Going back to Sabertooth X79


----------



## xarot

Did you check CPU socket pins?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falb0ner*
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> i'm currently finishing my water loop with my RIVE and i was wondering if watercooling the north & south bridge is NECESSARY when overclocking? i see EK makes 2 blocks for each bridge and i'm not sure if the extra ~$130 is worth it? Will i be fine with the standard heatsinks and good air flow? i plan on pushing this setup (with a 4930k) and i'm looking for input as this is my 1st watercooled system.


If you are pushing three/four cards I would say water cooling the chipset and mosfet on the motherboard is a must, my motherboard heatsinks got insanely hot with 4x R9 290X's in quadfire, easily 70C+ on the chipset heatsink, the RAM also got pretty hot (guessed it was connected somehow). If you go with one or two cards I would not have gone with water cooling on the chipset and mosfet. The RAM-temperature was related to the chipset being too hot, when water cooled the RAM is at reasonable temperatures.


----------



## skupples

X79 chipset is rated for like 95c.

Mosfets yes, but I'm still waiting for someone to imperically prove that water cooling the chipset provides any benefits.


----------



## falb0ner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> If you are pushing three/four cards I would say water cooling the chipset and mosfet on the motherboard is a must, my motherboard heatsinks got insanely hot with 4x R9 290X's in quadfire, easily 70C+ on the chipset heatsink, the RAM also got pretty hot (guessed it was connected somehow). If you go with one or two cards I would not have gone with water cooling on the chipset and mosfet. The RAM-temperature was related to the chipset being too hot, when water cooled the RAM is at reasonable temperatures.


Interesting on how more GPUs will raise temps on the system. For now i am running SLi 780Tis so i should be ok. How does the additional gpu cause more heat on the chipsets? more bandwidth? 70*c is high but still within a safe temp range.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Did you check CPU socket pins?


Yes, and they are all intact. I guess I am done with RIVEBE for now. Going to return this board to MC later today.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> X79 chipset is rated for like 95c.
> 
> Mosfets yes, but I'm still waiting for someone to imperically prove that water cooling the chipset provides any benefits.


In theory case temps would be affected.


----------



## Aberration

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falb0ner*
> 
> Interesting on how more GPUs will raise temps on the system. For now i am running SLi 780Tis so i should be ok. How does the additional gpu cause more heat on the chipsets? more bandwidth? 70*c is high but still within a safe temp range.


I assume pulling more power on the PCI-E slots?


----------



## cadaveca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aberration*
> 
> I assume pulling more power on the PCI-E slots?


Not just the slots, the VRM for those slots, the CPU (because it controls the lanes and connects them to the rest of the system), and the CPU VRM, since it powers the CPU. Has nothing to do with chipset at all on this platform, other than having a nice toasty GPU VRM sitting directly over it, soaking it with heat.


----------



## Aberration

I guess need if you to be dramatically detailed.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falb0ner*
> 
> Interesting on how more GPUs will raise temps on the system. For now i am running SLi 780Tis so i should be ok. How does the additional gpu cause more heat on the chipsets? more bandwidth? 70*c is high but still within a safe temp range.


At least 70C, I am not satisfyed with that high temperature on a top tier board like this. I would say stop at three GPUs at most motherboards today because you will run into trouble adding the fourth card anyways. More heat, more trouble with cables, two PSUs and so on. RAM was too hot to comfort as well, no-one will convince me that running hot motherboard and RAM is good for anything. Probably shorter lifespan too, but do what you pleases. ;-)


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> I guess I might have to return this board after all. 1st pci-e slot is stuck at 2.0 at 8x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Amount of bios flashback, swapping cards and force-enable-gen3 seems to work to get it to run 16x.
> 
> I will probably scout some RIVEBE later. Going back to Sabertooth X79


Did you check the PCIe DIP switch? I have seen several people neglect this switch and have issues with the number of lanes allocated...


----------



## M11C

so i just finished installing my first waterloop, on my first build (made out of new parts, that is







)











can anybody tell me how well the watercoling profile in BIOS works?

also, i plan on running my 4820K at 4.5GHz, what voltage would you advice, and what other settings do i need to change?

- M11c


----------



## CryptiK

I notice no ill effects running TRI-SLI on this board. I don't use the extra PCI-e power connector as I don't need to pull more from the slots than theyre capable of.

M11C - nice work man. Head over to the ROG forum there's a couple useful threads about overclocking on this mobo specifically with IVY-E cpu's


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Did you check the PCIe DIP switch? I have seen several people neglect this switch and have issues with the number of lanes allocated...


Yes, I played around with those switches as well and that didn't help me either







The odd part is that only the main pci-e is stuck at 2.0 @8x, the rest of the pci-e are working correctly at 3.0 16x and 8x.


----------



## M11C

Update

so i'm now running at 4.5GHz at 1.2 Vcore, CLL set to ultra and spread spectrum enabled

running at 30C idle











did 10 passes on Intel Burn Test, and max temp was 51C, quad radiator for the cpu block is the way to go xD

would be amazing if i hit a stable OC in first try









my CPU looks to be pretty decent


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M11C*
> 
> so i just finished installing my first waterloop, on my first build (made out of new parts, that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can anybody tell me how well the watercoling profile in BIOS works?
> 
> also, i plan on running my 4820K at 4.5GHz, what voltage would you advice, and what other settings do i need to change?
> 
> - M11c


Congrats on your new water cooling project. The water cooling OC profile on the BIOS, will feed your chip 1.52v. You shouldn't go past 1.4 for 24/7 overclocks. So my advice is to not use that profile. Instead do it manually.


----------



## M11C

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Congrats on your new water cooling project. The water cooling OC profile on the BIOS, will feed your chip 1.52v. You shouldn't go past 1.4 for 24/7 overclocks. So my advice is to not use that profile. Instead do it manually.


thanks.

yeah, i read in a review that the preconfigured profiles is garbage.

i tried loading the watercooled, just to see what the numbers were, but was scared away imidiately







also different core multipliers looked a bit odd.

but as you can see in my updated post, i'm now doing 4.5GHz at 1.2 Vcore ^^


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> I notice no ill effects running TRI-SLI on this board. I don't use the extra PCI-e power connector as I don't need to pull more from the slots than theyre capable of.


Good luck if you are overclocking.


----------



## skupples

The preconfigured profiles are always garbage. The auto-OC is slightly better, but the mixed core speed profiles have never worked for me.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> I notice no ill effects running TRI-SLI on this board. I don't use the extra PCI-e power connector as I don't need to pull more from the slots than theyre capable of.
> 
> M11C - nice work man. Head over to the ROG forum there's a couple useful threads about overclocking on this mobo specifically with IVY-E cpu's


It will run well with 290 tri fire as long as you run the cards stock and with a [email protected] CPU o/c .Benching 3 cards add 2nd psu . That's what I had to do to clock 3 cards @ 1300mhz









@M11C Good job with your new watercooled build and funny avatar btw


----------



## skupples

I'm running dual PSU.

1300W EVGA G2 for the Titans, and an 860 for everything else.


----------



## VertKiller

OK. I am just now getting to put my board together. I bought it when it first came out but found out I had cancer and never got to put it together until now. So I need to know a couple of things if you don't mind.

1. Which EATX12v plug do I use. The 4 or 8 or both. I have 2 cables but one is to short so I'm hoping I can use just one of the 2 plugins.

2. I have the 4930 cpu. Will it boot up with this with the original bios or am I going to have to find the smaller cpu to boot this up so I can flash the new bios or can this board be flashed with what I have.

Thanks for any answers you can give. I am trying to catch up on reading this thread for those answers but I have a lot of catching up to do. Over a years worth.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> OK. I am just now getting to put my board together. I bought it when it first came out but found out I had cancer and never got to put it together until now. So I need to know a couple of things if you don't mind.
> 
> 1. Which EATX12v plug do I use. The 4 or 8 or both. I have 2 cables but one is to short so I'm hoping I can use just one of the 2 plugins.
> 
> 2. I have the 4930 cpu. Will it boot up with this with the original bios or am I going to have to find the smaller cpu to boot this up so I can flash the new bios or can this board be flashed with what I have.
> 
> Thanks for any answers you can give. I am trying to catch up on reading this thread for those answers but I have a lot of catching up to do. Over a years worth.


I wouldn't bother flashing it unless you really have to . I still run the original bios the board came with 403 I think
But you can hook up the 4pin for extra power if required , but go the 8 pin first .
Also glad you've got that cancer thing behind you as well


----------



## delevic

I must leave this thread.....REIVblack is replaced













Vrm was only 45-50c. So it is clear that the VRM on REIVblack was bad.


----------



## M11C

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VertKiller*
> 
> OK. I am just now getting to put my board together. I bought it when it first came out but found out I had cancer and never got to put it together until now. So I need to know a couple of things if you don't mind.
> 
> 1. Which EATX12v plug do I use. The 4 or 8 or both. I have 2 cables but one is to short so I'm hoping I can use just one of the 2 plugins.
> 
> 2. I have the 4930 cpu. Will it boot up with this with the original bios or am I going to have to find the smaller cpu to boot this up so I can flash the new bios or can this board be flashed with what I have.
> 
> Thanks for any answers you can give. I am trying to catch up on reading this thread for those answers but I have a lot of catching up to do. Over a years worth.


i'm sorry to hear about your illness. 4 pin should do at stock, if you have to, 8 pin if you're OC'ing, both for LN2









i think you ought to be able to flash without CPU, but not sure..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> It will run well with 290 tri fire as long as you run the cards stock and with a [email protected] CPU o/c .Benching 3 cards add 2nd psu . That's what I had to do to clock 3 cards @ 1300mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @M11C Good job with your new watercooled build and funny avatar btw


thanks









LOL, i considered my 1200W PSU future proof xD


----------



## Mega Man

even if you have to flash you can do so without cpu or ram just psu ( with standby power ), mobo and usb


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delevic*
> 
> I must leave this thread.....REIVblack is replaced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vrm was only 45-50c. So it is clear that the VRM on REIVblack was bad.






not sure about that... onboard VRM temps continue to drop with each new generation.

also, under water, = 30c VRMs


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delevic*
> 
> I must leave this thread.....REIVblack is replaced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vrm was only 45-50c. So it is clear that the VRM on REIVblack was bad.


I used a VRM block on my R4BE, sadly the 5960X was too hard for me to resist. I already have my R5E, just waiting to sell my 4930K to get DDR4, M.2 SSD and Mobo blocks.


----------



## VertKiller

Thank you everyone for the help.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Finally got the motherboard installed and up an running. I have tried the same settings from my Sabertooth X79 but it doesn't seems to work and was met with constant restart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been playing with the board for about two hours to get this board stable. I have to raise *CPU Current Capability to 150%* for it to be stable at the same 4.6ghz that I have with my saber. Saber was only using 130 and it was stable.
> 
> Also my 1st PCI-E slot is stuck at 8x, I have changed it with my other cards but it seems to be stuck at 8x while the others are 16x. Hopefully you can shed some light to my little dilemma. Thanks


If it's the very first x16 slot under the cpu socket then you have a big issue and should replace the board. If you're running this card in the second slot then you're doing it wrong. The second slot is x8 electrical meaning that no matter what you do it will always be x8. Use slot 1 for single, 1 and 4 for dual SLI and 1, 2, and 4 for tri.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> If it's the very first x16 slot under the cpu socket then you have a big issue and should replace the board. If you're running this card in the second slot then you're doing it wrong. The second slot is x8 electrical meaning that no matter what you do it will always be x8. Use slot 1 for single, 1 and 4 for dual SLI and 1, 2, and 4 for tri.


It was the 1st slot right under the cpu that was running at PCI-E 2 @8x







I gave up on it after doing everything that I can possible can. Returned the board back to MC last week. Now I am back with my good ol Saber SLI @16x


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Good luck if you are overclocking.


I've run them up to 1293MHz with cpu @ 4.5GHz, no ill effects
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Finally got the motherboard installed and up an running. I have tried the same settings from my Sabertooth X79 but it doesn't seems to work and was met with constant restart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been playing with the board for about two hours to get this board stable. I have to raise *CPU Current Capability to 150%* for it to be stable at the same 4.6ghz that I have with my saber. Saber was only using 130 and it was stable.
> 
> Also my 1st PCI-E slot is stuck at 8x, I have changed it with my other cards but it seems to be stuck at 8x while the others are 16x. Hopefully you can shed some light to my little dilemma. Thanks


It's been mentioned before by Raja that 140% is normal max current draw. Do not set it to less than 140 if you are setting this manually.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> I've run them up to 1293MHz with cpu @ 4.5GHz, no ill effects


I am sure as heck not buying spare parts from you.


----------



## cain12345

Hi, was wondering If anyone could help me. I have just installed the Ek r4be monoblock and now it won't boot. I have taken it off and tried the corsair h100i which works fine.
I've also tried loosening the screws holding it on which doesn't help either. Anyone had the same issue or have any ideas on what could be causing this? Thanks


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cain12345*
> 
> Hi, was wondering If anyone could help me. I have just installed the Ek r4be monoblock and now it won't boot. I have taken it off and tried the corsair h100i which works fine.
> I've also tried loosening the screws holding it on which doesn't help either. Anyone had the same issue or have any ideas on what could be causing this? Thanks


Sorry but i had no problems put mine on and it booted right up! You did not over tighten did you??


----------



## cain12345

i dont think so, i tried loosening the screws bit by bit and trying to boot up but kept getting the same problem, with q code b6. Eventually it gets too loose and wont boot because the CPU isnt seated right.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cain12345*
> 
> i dont think so, i tried loosening the screws bit by bit and trying to boot up but kept getting the same problem, with q code b6. Eventually it gets too loose and wont boot because the CPU isnt seated right.


Hope you did not bend any pins? Take all the memory out but 1 stick and try


----------



## cain12345

yeah i've tried that, no pins are bent. it all works fine when i dont have the monoblock on, with my old h100i on it booted up first time with no issues. so the motherboard isnt damaged, its just when the monoblock is on that it doesnt work.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cain12345*
> 
> yeah i've tried that, no pins are bent. it all works fine when i dont have the monoblock on, with my old h100i on it booted up first time with no issues. so the motherboard isnt damaged, its just when the monoblock is on that it doesnt work.


Did you use nylon washers on all the screws? Did you switch the backplate to the alternate 2011 backplate that comes with the board? It's kinda like the cpu isn't fully seated.


----------



## cain12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Did you use nylon washers on all the screws? Did you switch the backplate to the alternate 2011 backplate that comes with the board? It's kinda like the cpu isn't fully seated.


Ah i didn't switch the backplate







should really read the manual next time. Thanks for the help, will try it tomorrow and let you know how it goe


----------



## cain12345

Yep that was it, thanks for the help! Just leak testing now


----------



## mtbiker033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M11C*
> 
> thanks.
> 
> yeah, i read in a review that the preconfigured profiles is garbage.
> 
> i tried loading the watercooled, just to see what the numbers were, but was scared away imidiately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also different core multipliers looked a bit odd.
> 
> but as you can see in my updated post, i'm now doing 4.5GHz at 1.2 Vcore ^^


I was almost curious enough to check those profles but just couldn't do it!

I see you are also running a 4820k, I just got my BE going today and used some similar settings I was using on my asrock board (offset voltage and 4.4, +.020) but it doesn't look like it's downclocking. I need to play around more in the bios.

The number of features and the depth of the bios on this board is mind boggling!

edit: added cpu-z shots


----------



## Wiz766

I think I have asked something similiar to this before. RIght now I am running SLI in slots 1 and 3 with their switches turned on. Downgrading to 1 GPU, can I run that in the 2nd PCI slot at 16x still?


----------



## mtbiker033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> I think I have asked something similiar to this before. RIght now I am running SLI in slots 1 and 3 with their switches turned on. Downgrading to 1 GPU, can I run that in the 2nd PCI slot at 16x still?


from looking at the manual, single VGA has to be in slot 1


----------



## Wiz766

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> from looking at the manual, single VGA has to be in slot 1


Thats not what I wanted to hear. I dont know where my manual is anymore


----------



## Wiz766

Is there a way in windows or bios to check what each card in a PCI lane is running at?


----------



## skupples

Bios has a tab for PCIE lanes.


----------



## mtbiker033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> Is there a way in windows or bios to check what each card in a PCI lane is running at?


I just got my board up and running yesterday so I'm not sure, I didn't notice it.

my asrock board had a system explorer thing where it would but I didn't notice it in the RIVE BE bios (I may have not seen or overlooked it)


----------



## Wiz766

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> I just got my board up and running yesterday so I'm not sure, I didn't notice it.
> 
> my asrock board had a system explorer thing where it would but I didn't notice it in the RIVE BE bios (I may have not seen or overlooked it)


I was just looking in bios and I didnt see anything either. I have my single card running in slot three because the manual(found it) says the 1st and 3rd are both 16x. Horizontal motherboard try so I think the 2nd and 3rd slots look better for spacing things out.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> I think I have asked something similiar to this before. RIght now I am running SLI in slots 1 and 3 with their switches turned on. Downgrading to 1 GPU, can I run that in the 2nd PCI slot at 16x still?


You can run it in the second slot but since the second slot is an x8 electrical you would have half the bandwidth of the 1st or 3rd. I know you used to only be able to run a single card in the first slot, whether or not that still applies I couldn't say. If so and you aren't using the 1st slot for anything else you could always switch it off at the pci-e lane switch.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> Is there a way in windows or bios to check what each card in a PCI lane is running at?


In the advanced interface in the extreme tab there should be a button labeled gpu/dimm post. That will show you what slots are occupied and at what bus speed they're running at.


----------



## Madmaxneo

You can get the manual as a PDF on the ASUS website. Here is a link: http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/HelpDesk_Manual/
Also I have been told it doesn't matter which PCI slot you use the card in, but the card in the first slot will get priority when it comes to available lanes. But that shouldn't be a problem on this MB.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz766*
> 
> I think I have asked something similiar to this before. RIght now I am running SLI in slots 1 and 3 with their switches turned on. Downgrading to 1 GPU, can I run that in the 2nd PCI slot at 16x still?


Slot 1 and 3 are x 16


----------



## Madmaxneo

Yeah, what HOMECINEMA-PC said, but remember the further down the line the less priority it gets when it comes to PCI-e lanes. I am not sure where in line the 3rd slot PCI-e slot is though. There are other things that take up some lanes at times though I am not sure what uses how many lanes at what times.

This is what I have been told, so I could be wrong. Anyone care to either correct me or enforce what I am saying?

I do know that the 1st slot takes priority over just about anything else which is why the manufacturer recommends using that one for single card set ups.

Bruce


----------



## dannyencasa

Here is my validation.

http://valid.canardpc.com/bq45ul


----------



## Spongeboy5040

Hey guys, my R4BE is coming in tomorrow as part of an overhaul to get me through to broadwell-e. Included in this overhaul is my first custom loop. How important is it that the mosfets and chipset be cooled as well? I really don't want to pull the stock heatsinks off as I love the look but I am willing to do so if it makes a huge difference.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeboy5040*
> 
> Hey guys, my R4BE is coming in tomorrow as part of an overhaul to get me through to broadwell-e. Included in this overhaul is my first custom loop. How important is it that the mosfets and chipset be cooled as well? I really don't want to pull the stock heatsinks off as I love the look but I am willing to do so if it makes a huge difference.


It's not necessary if you don't want to. Only reason I have chosen to is because the stock heatsink (MOSFET/VRM) approach uncomfortably high temps, but even so, if my case had better airflow in that area it would not probably be necessary... Most people just do it for looks.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah, what HOMECINEMA-PC said, but remember the further down the line the less priority it gets when it comes to PCI-e lanes. I am not sure where in line the 3rd slot PCI-e slot is though. There are other things that take up some lanes at times though I am not sure what uses how many lanes at what times.
> 
> This is what I have been told, so I could be wrong. Anyone care to either correct me or enforce what I am saying?
> 
> I do know that the 1st slot takes priority over just about anything else which is why the manufacturer recommends using that one for single card set ups.
> 
> Bruce


The only thought I can add is that there is no appreciable difference between any of the slots in x8 or x16 mode. Although I am sure there is some level of priority going on, but it didn't change the performance of my card/system in benchmarks and gaming.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeboy5040*
> 
> Hey guys, my R4BE is coming in tomorrow as part of an overhaul to get me through to broadwell-e. Included in this overhaul is my first custom loop. How important is it that the mosfets and chipset be cooled as well? I really don't want to pull the stock heatsinks off as I love the look but I am willing to do so if it makes a huge difference.


It will make a large difference but it isn't completely needed. Like reev3r said, it really comes down to preference and air flow. What made you upgrade from the p9 pro?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> The only thought I can add is that there is no appreciable difference between any of the slots in x8 or x16 mode. Although I am sure there is some level of priority going on, but it didn't change the performance of my card/system in benchmarks and gaming.


Interesting to know. I have heard that even when going between PCI-e 2.0 and 3.0 there is only a small difference in performance if any.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Interesting to know. I have heard that even when going between PCI-e 2.0 and 3.0 there is only a small difference in performance if any.


Yeah, full PCIe 2.0 x16 is equivalent to PCIe 3.0 at x8, and again, not much difference there. Maybe a couple percent difference is about it, certainly within a margin of error, and many times (task contingent), even PCIe 2.0 x8 is plenty sufficient...

Check out Linus Tech Tips YouTube channel for their PCIe lanes " Does it matter" video...


----------



## Spongeboy5040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> It will make a large difference but it isn't completely needed. Like reev3r said, it really comes down to preference and air flow. What made you upgrade from the p9 pro?


My P9 has need slowly dying on me for the last year or so. First my sound went out now the Ethernet blinks in and out. Figured I'd finally make the move to ROG and sell my RMA replacement.

And thanks for the insight guys guess I'll check my VRM temps when the board gets in today.


----------



## Justin579

Ok. I'm really pissed. I Bought this since its like the best out there and I'm STILL HAVING PROBLEMS.

I bought a gigabyte one.
Doesn't work.
Asus x99a
Doesn't work.
This has the same problem as the Asus and I highly doubt it can be a coincidence.

The drives don't work all the time. The hdd never works no matter what. My main ssd used to boot now it won't. No reason whatsoever. I didn't do anything. I have to literally go into the bios and MANUALLY boot from there.

They worked fine on the gigabyte? Aka like 2 weeks ago?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justin579*
> 
> Ok. I'm really pissed. I Bought this since its like the best out there and I'm STILL HAVING PROBLEMS.
> 
> I bought a gigabyte one.
> Doesn't work.
> Asus x99a
> Doesn't work.
> This has the same problem as the Asus and I highly doubt it can be a coincidence.
> 
> The drives don't work all the time. The hdd never works no matter what. My main ssd used to boot now it won't. No reason whatsoever. I didn't do anything. I have to literally go into the bios and MANUALLY boot from there.
> 
> They worked fine on the gigabyte? Aka like 2 weeks ago?


Have you verified the HDD BBS properties? I have had the same issue in the pastz just needed to go into the Boot options and ensure that the Boot order is correct...


----------



## Justin579

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Have you verified the HDD BBS properties? I have had the same issue in the pastz just needed to go into the Boot options and ensure that the Boot order is correct...


oops I posted this on the wrong rampage thread... Sorry but it isn't in the boot order. It only shows my other ssd


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justin579*
> 
> oops I posted this on the wrong rampage thread... Sorry but it isn't in the boot order. It only shows my other ssd


I can not recall the exact section off hand, but there is an area to manually enable which items are even allowed to boot from, ivwuggest double checking that it is indeed enabled properly in the BBS properties section...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeboy5040*
> 
> My P9 has need slowly dying on me for the last year or so. First my sound went out now the Ethernet blinks in and out. Figured I'd finally make the move to ROG and sell my RMA replacement.


I've never understood the RoG vs non-RoG thing. I was torn between a sabertooth, the rivbe, and the p9x79ws-e when upgrading to 2011. The part that made no sense to me was the sabertooth not being a RoG product despite being more mainstream but the rivbe being one despite being far more enthusiast; it just seemed very arbitrary. Anyway, have fun with your new board!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeboy5040*
> 
> Hey guys, my R4BE is coming in tomorrow as part of an overhaul to get me through to broadwell-e. Included in this overhaul is my first custom loop. How important is it that the mosfets and chipset be cooled as well? I really don't want to pull the stock heatsinks off as I love the look but I am willing to do so if it makes a huge difference.


cooling the VRMs can be beneficial, when you start pushing the juice, but I've yet to see any empirical data that cooling the chipset is worth a damn.


----------



## reev3r

The only time I feel it would be worth it to cool the chipset doesn't even apply to this board, and that is on some of the early 2011 boards with those gnarly little chipset fans that spun at 5,000RPM without remorse, making a ridiculous racket in the process, that would have to be the first thing to go... Fortunately, about halfway through the 2011 life cycle everyone pulled their heads out and stopped using those dang fans, temperatures be damned! lol


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I've yet to see any empirical data that cooling the chipset is worth a damn.


Looks tits.


----------



## friskiest

I bought another one


----------



## Mega Man

Woo


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I bought another one


That is a thing of beauty! Although, as much as I love it, it seems to be a love/hate relationship, the insides are just too busy with all of those fittings... That being said, the skill involved in getting all of that to work, as well as the patience that must have been required, props to you man, props to you!!! Well done you!


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> That is a thing of beauty! Although, as much as I love it, it seems to be a love/hate relationship, the insides are just too busy with all of those fittings... That being said, the skill involved in getting all of that to work, as well as the patience that must have been required, props to you man, props to you!!! Well done you!


Nothing is actually tubed up, it's just sitting there waiting for me to find some spare time to get to work.

The second board is just a donor board - going to cut the heatpipe on that board so I can mount it on the other one


----------



## Spongeboy5040

I'm in


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Nothing is actually tubed up, it's just sitting there waiting for me to find some spare time to get to work.
> 
> The second board is just a donor board - going to cut the heatpipe on that board so I can mount it on the other one


Oh, gotcha... Even so, if you do manage to get it set up, I will be sorely impressed! It's going to be a significant challenge I feel... I noticed that the GPU's weren't connected, but couldn't tell if everything else was (though I didn't check closely).


----------



## MENINBLK

I know I'm a little late to the party but EKWB has a Motherboard block kit that cools the CPU, VRMs and Chipset with only 2 connections (IN & OUT).
It is available on FrozenCPU.com.

EKWB Model # EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock - Acetal+Nickel [3831109821183]

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24364/ex-blc-1742/EK_ASUS_Rampage_IV_Black_Edition_Full_Board_Cooling_Monoblock_-_AcetalNickel_EK-FB_ASUS_R4BE_Monoblock_-_AcetalNickel.html?id=kBJT38gU&mv_pc=651#blank


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MENINBLK*
> 
> I know I'm a little late to the party but EKWB has a Motherboard block kit that cools the CPU, VRMs and Chipset with only 2 connections (IN & OUT).
> It is available on FrozenCPU.com.
> 
> EKWB Model # EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock - Acetal+Nickel [3831109821183]
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24364/ex-blc-1742/EK_ASUS_Rampage_IV_Black_Edition_Full_Board_Cooling_Monoblock_-_AcetalNickel_EK-FB_ASUS_R4BE_Monoblock_-_AcetalNickel.html?id=kBJT38gU&mv_pc=651#blank


Kind of funny, I just bought one of these yesterday for $100...

THIS one in fact...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MENINBLK*
> 
> I know I'm a little late to the party but EKWB has a Motherboard block kit that cools the CPU, VRMs and Chipset with only 2 connections (IN & OUT).
> It is available on FrozenCPU.com.
> 
> EKWB Model # EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock - Acetal+Nickel [3831109821183]
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24364/ex-blc-1742/EK_ASUS_Rampage_IV_Black_Edition_Full_Board_Cooling_Monoblock_-_AcetalNickel_EK-FB_ASUS_R4BE_Monoblock_-_AcetalNickel.html?id=kBJT38gU&mv_pc=651#blank


Yea, there's been a good bit of talk about them. The thing is they're rather pricey, especially if you already have a good cpu block. Combine that with mounting restrictions and it may not be exactly what someone is looking for. Plus, some folks like the look of multiple connections. From a purely tube routing perspective though I'm sure they're significantly easier to work with.

For those that use rigid tubing; is there any good way to go from flexible to rigid back to flex without using a block/pump/rad as a converter? You'd have to buy a T junction and mount that off to the side and use that for the hand-off, right?


----------



## friskiest

I personally dislike the look and design of it, which is why I went for the conventional style blocks.

To each their own


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Yea, there's been a good bit of talk about them. The thing is they're rather pricey, especially if you already have a good cpu block. Combine that with mounting restrictions and it may not be exactly what someone is looking for. Plus, some folks like the look of multiple connections. From a purely tube routing perspective though I'm sure they're significantly easier to work with.
> 
> For those that use rigid tubing; is there any good way to go from flexible to rigid back to flex without using a block/pump/rad as a converter? You'd have to buy a T junction and mount that off to the side and use that for the hand-off, right?


Yeah, they are quite spendy. I have been using an XSPC Raystorm block, and I bought the XSPC R4BE block both because of the price and to match the CPU block, but unfortunately the R4BE VRM block was causing my system to fail to POST, giving me an error 00, and when I would tinker with it I could get it to POST and boot occasionally, but then when I would restart it would fail every time. So I gave up on it. Sending it back to Frozen today.

Fortunately, electro2u has that block sitting around not being used, and saw my posts griping about my POST issues and offered to sell it to me... Very, very grateful because I got a heck of a deal, and I am confident that it will resolve my POST issues given that in order to get the XSPC block to POST it needed to be very loose, so much so that it barely made contact with the VRM's... So, hopefully by the end of this week I will have a nice, beautiful monoblock installed and running... Now I just need to decide on a good, quality white additive to my rig to get everything looking pretty.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Finally got the Crucial Ballistix RAM out of my RIVBE and tossed the Corsair Dominator Platinums back in, been running 1866 Mhz 9-9-9-24 @ 1,5 volts for about two weeks without a flaw. It is 2400 Mhz C9 sticks though.









Also downgraded my GPU's from 4x Sapphire Radeon R9 290X to 1x MSI Lightning R9 290X, waiting for new cards.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Yeah, they are quite spendy. I have been using an XSPC Raystorm block, and I bought the XSPC R4BE block both because of the price and to match the CPU block, but unfortunately the R4BE VRM block was causing my system to fail to POST, giving me an error 00, and when I would tinker with it I could get it to POST and boot occasionally, but then when I would restart it would fail every time. So I gave up on it. Sending it back to Frozen today.
> 
> Fortunately, electro2u has that block sitting around not being used, and saw my posts griping about my POST issues and offered to sell it to me... Very, very grateful because I got a heck of a deal, and I am confident that it will resolve my POST issues given that in order to get the XSPC block to POST it needed to be very loose, so much so that it barely made contact with the VRM's... So, hopefully by the end of this week I will have a nice, beautiful monoblock installed and running... Now I just need to decide on a good, quality white additive to my rig to get everything looking pretty.


lol Yea, I recall all that. Keep us posted on how it works!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> lol Yea, I recall all that. Keep us posted on how it works!


I should have the block by Friday, and will hopefully be installing it right away, so I will definitely shout out some updates as the project moves along...

I have also made a couple more decisions/changes... Instead of doing a bada$$ bulkhead mount for my far too big 400mm reservoir, I am going to sell it to a friend of mine who is going to mount it externally, horizontally and do a sort of 'TMNT - OOZE Theme', and I am going to buy two smaller, clear reservoirs, and I plan to tape it off in some kind of pattern, probably something akin to a double helix, and then coat it with Plasti-Dip spray. My reasoning for this is that I plan to use white additive to my loop, and I really think that two big reservoirs that are solid white will really destroy the look of the build, so I want to make the reservoir mostly black, with some nice white accents. Especially since the monoblock is the clear plexi version, so the nice white coolant running through that will look great.

I am sticking with the black tubing though, since I, once more, do not want too much white running through the rig.

Also trying to decide on a few things regarding the lighting... I have changed my mind regarding the replacement of the vented flex bay covers with the solid covers. Instead I am going to make a lightbox using some white acrylic, and either using some LED strips (not sure if I want to go with RGB to be able to change colors, or with 6500K white. My issue with RGB is that you end up with red/green/blue color cast and colored shadows because each LED is in a slightly different location, just enough to cause colored shadows, which would look terrible when it is lighting the whole front and top of the case, as well as the underglow), so I am leaning more towards the 6500K solid white strips, or to go with a bunch of COB LED panels, unfortunately no matter what solution I go with it is going to be rather expensive to get enough lights to cast a nice, even glow. Unless of course I am able to obtain some of the layers that are used to cast even light for display backlighting, but to get the sheets alone is expensive, and tearing apart all of the laptops I have doesn't sound exciting, although it would provide enough of the sheets to get it done, so it is a tempting solution.

I am reconsidering the idea of adding not only a second 560mm rad (I think it would be overkill, although I do REALLY want to because I feel strongly about symmetry), but also the addition of a second Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming, I really feel that one is sufficient, and given the issues I have read regarding SLI and 970's with voltage issues, I am not terribly excited about that, I think that I will likely wait a few months, sell my 970 and just buy a used 980, to move past the 3.5GB RAM issue (Yes, I know they have 4GB of RAM, but the 'second pool' of RAM is orders of magnitude slower, the primary RAM is ~200GB/s, while the second pool is ~20GB/s... NOT OKAY!), so anyway, there;s that.

Oh, cool thing I am working on and trying to sort out. I still use optical drives on occasion, and the hassle of pulling one out, opening my case, finding my spare SATA cable, connecting it, getting it in a decent position to sit there, blah blah, is irritating when I only need to pull a 10MB file off a disc... So, my solution was to yank the optical drive out of my 15" MacBook Pro (I hate tray based drives), and buying the slimline adapter for it, and installing it in my rig. The best parts, it doesn't take up much space, it fits behind the motherboard, and it is nice and clean, doesn't uglify the front of my case with a single optical drive when there is nothing else there... So, my next potential goal is to figure out a way to cut a slot somehwere in my case that can be easily hidden, and will not look terrible later on, and allows me to use the optical drive with the case all put together. I think it will be a pretty nifty thing if I can get it done neatly.

As well, my temperature display and graph for the 10 digital temperature probes is almost done. It should be done within the next couple of days, so that has me excited!

Lot's of good news! Well, aside from my kidney failure kicking in this past week and giving me the privilege of spending more time in the hospital, so YAY to that! Not really at all actually... lol


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I should have the block by Friday, and will hopefully be installing it right away, so I will definitely shout out some updates as the project moves along...
> 
> Also trying to decide on a few things regarding the lighting... I have changed my mind regarding the replacement of the vented flex bay covers with the solid covers. Instead I am going to make a lightbox using some white acrylic, and either using some LED strips (not sure if I want to go with RGB to be able to change colors, or with 6500K white. My issue with RGB is that you end up with red/green/blue color cast and colored shadows because each LED is in a slightly different location, just enough to cause colored shadows, which would look terrible when it is lighting the whole front and top of the case, as well as the underglow), so I am leaning more towards the 6500K solid white strips, or to go with a bunch of COB LED panels, unfortunately no matter what solution I go with it is going to be rather expensive to get enough lights to cast a nice, even glow. Unless of course I am able to obtain some of the layers that are used to cast even light for display backlighting, but to get the sheets alone is expensive, and tearing apart all of the laptops I have doesn't sound exciting, although it would provide enough of the sheets to get it done, so it is a tempting solution.
> 
> I am reconsidering the idea of adding not only a second 560mm rad (I think it would be overkill, although I do REALLY want to because I feel strongly about symmetry), but also the addition of a second Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming, I really feel that one is sufficient, and given the issues I have read regarding SLI and 970's with voltage issues, I am not terribly excited about that, I think that I will likely wait a few months, sell my 970 and just buy a used 980, to move past the 3.5GB RAM issue (Yes, I know they have 4GB of RAM, but the 'second pool' of RAM is orders of magnitude slower, the primary RAM is ~200GB/s, while the second pool is ~20GB/s... NOT OKAY!), so anyway, there;s that.


Some kind of defuser would help a lot with the light casting. Try directing high intensity LEDs at a piece of reflective metal sheet then have the sheet reflect that light onto the white plexi. Sanding the side of the plexi that faces the reflective surfaces may further help to defuse the light. Prisms might work too but are likely more expensive than the backlight sheets you mention.

I've heard about that. From what I understand it's more a software issue than an actual hardware issue. If only they had a program that limited vram access to the larger block. Something like that would likely solve a lot of people's issues.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Some kind of defuser would help a lot with the light casting. Try directing high intensity LEDs at a piece of reflective metal sheet then have the sheet reflect that light onto the white plexi. Sanding the side of the plexi that faces the reflective surfaces may further help to defuse the light. Prisms might work too but are likely more expensive than the backlight sheets you mention.
> 
> I've heard about that. From what I understand it's more a software issue than an actual hardware issue. If only they had a program that limited vram access to the larger block. Something like that would likely solve a lot of people's issues.


I have several plans regarding how I will get a nice, even glow from the lightbox, I am confident at least one of them will work...

As for the 970, there are a couple of issues at play. The SLI issues can be resolved with a custom BIOS that changes the voltage state under load so that it stays at a constant voltage instead of dynamically adjusting. The unfortunate part, is that my card doesn't have a dual BIOS, like EVERY OTHER 970 seems to. I am reluctant to flash the BIOS simply due to the fear of ending up with a bricked 970. I would rather just sell it and upgrade, unless Nvidia rolls out a solution for it.

As far as the VRM issue... The way the VRAM is segmented, most applications do not use the smaller pool of 'slower' VRAM, so that part isn't much of an issue, and even if they do hit it it doesn5 affect performance at all, most people seem to think that it will tank performance, but the thing is, just about any game that would need to use that much VRAM is a hardcore game anyway, probably running at or near 4K, and the 970 really is not a 4K GPU anyway, so the VRAM is not likely to be what causes any performance issues anyway, there are many videos that shoe the cards using close to the full 4GB and performance drops pretty well linearly as the settings are increased, so the performance degradation people are seeing isn't because of the VRAM pool, it's because they are pushing the actual GPU beyond its performance target, it's not meant to crank out 60FPS at 4K.

Another cool thing, I see a lot of people using DSR to stress the card, running at 150-200%, so not only is the card rendering at double the resolution of the display, but it also has to then downsample that back to 1080p for output. I mean what video cards on the market are able to run games maxed out at 3840*2160 without being in sli/Crossfire, there aren't many, if any at all...

I suggest you check out the video from paper where Ryan Shrout goes over the issue with the 970 and the memory pool. It's really interesting how the Maxwell architecture works in regards to disabling blocks of the card while allowing other things to remain functional. It clears up a LOT of the confusion surrounding this whole thing and in my opinion really clears Nvidia of a lot of the negativity being forced upon them, granted they really did screw the pooch, and deserve some negative press, but I feel very strongly that people are blowing this so incredibly out or proportion, and ultimately I feel that the benchmarks and performance of the card speak for themselves, all of this coming from a guy that was absolutely PISSED when I first read about it in the forums, then I go to thinking, I am able to run all the games I like at or near max settings and getting consistency X,, z, * f&&&[email protected]


----------



## SpecTRe-X

More or less. From what I've heard/read it was a disconnect between the marketing and engineering departments and not some secret plot to misrepresent the card. I did see two or three of the longer more detailed videos and read a fair bit about it too. In the end I took it with a grain of salt just like everything else I hear and read about.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> More or less. From what I've heard/read it was a disconnect between the marketing and engineering departments and not some secret plot to misrepresent the card. I did see two or three of the longer more detailed videos and read a fair bit about it too. In the end I took it with a grain of salt just like everything else I hear and read about.


In the end, yeah, since Maxwell is such a drastic departure from prior architectures, there is a feature that the marketing team was unaware of, and that is, effectively, the ability to partially disable functions of the card, and in the end half of the memory interface for that last 515MB got disabled, forcing it to use a single link to the crossbar through the L2 cache, which in reality is where the actual issue is, not the memory itself, but because part of the L2 cache is disabled it cuts the potential communication bandwidth of that portion of VRM in half through its link to the crossbar...

Anyhow, it's all technical goodness, but ultimately 1/8th of the total VRM operates at 1/8th the total VRM speed, but does not affect games in any perceptible way you might think it would..

So goop to that! THANKS FOR THE SWEET CARD NVIDIA, IT'S FOSTER THAN MY SLI 670's overclocked!!!


----------



## Spongeboy5040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MENINBLK*
> 
> I know I'm a little late to the party but EKWB has a Motherboard block kit that cools the CPU, VRMs and Chipset with only 2 connections (IN & OUT).
> It is available on FrozenCPU.com.
> 
> EKWB Model # EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock - Acetal+Nickel [3831109821183]
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24364/ex-blc-1742/EK_ASUS_Rampage_IV_Black_Edition_Full_Board_Cooling_Monoblock_-_AcetalNickel_EK-FB_ASUS_R4BE_Monoblock_-_AcetalNickel.html?id=kBJT38gU&mv_pc=651#blank


I saw that, My only issue is then I have to remove that sexy I/O cover....


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeboy5040*
> 
> I saw that, My only issue is then I have to remove that sexy I/O cover....


A lot of people prefer to separate the heat pipe from the i/o cover and use it. I'll be listing one of these boards for sale with that modification done shortly on the own marketplace. The best way to do it is with a blow torch to heat the pipe up until it slides out.


----------



## tcclaviger

New Toy Still under construction and testing, it seems the bigger my PC budget gets, the more issues the hardware wants to have











2x 480, 1x 360 x 240 currently but will be swapping 240 to a second 360. With the right selection of PSU and radiators that all fits in the 900D without any modification









I am not impressed with the monoblock.... uneven pressure on my cpu leaving cores 1-3 10c hotter at full load than 4-6....


----------



## kzinti1

"I am not impressed with the monoblock.... uneven pressure on my cpu leaving cores 1-3 10c hotter at full load than 4-6...."

Yeah, but it looks so neat and clean with only 2 fittings needed to cool the whole board!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzinti1*
> 
> "I am not impressed with the monoblock.... uneven pressure on my cpu leaving cores 1-3 10c hotter at full load than 4-6...."
> 
> Yeah, but it looks so neat and clean with only 2 fittings needed to cool the whole board!


Function over style, especially for that price! lol


----------



## vampirek25

Dear all,

I`m having some performance drop/issue with offset oc and intel speed step enabled.
This is my rig:

[email protected]@1.23v
Rampage iv black
32g corsair dominator platinum 2400mhz
2x Titan GTX
2x 256g Samsung 850 pro raid 0

I noticed my problem with valley. if I run valley with my cpu with fixed vcore I got ~5500p. If I run my cpu in offset mode with speedstep enabled I got ~4000p
I leave C3 and C6 disabled.

any idea?

thanks for your time

Vamp


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vampirek25*
> 
> I noticed my problem with valley. if I run valley with my cpu with fixed vcore I got ~5500p. If I run my cpu in offset mode with speedstep enabled I got ~4000p
> I leave C3 and C6 disabled.
> 
> any idea?


Speedstep reduces or boosts your core speed as needed. I'd imagine that the core speed is fluctuating while running the benchmark and that's why the score varies.


----------



## reev3r

Ugh... More things not right..

Been running my rig since November 2013, and it ran fine previously. However, I've recently noticed a couple of anomalies, related I am sure...

Firstly, my 4930K has a single core that always runs at 20-50% load, all the others are 0-10%. I am not sure why that core, and I can not find any software culprit. It is the sixth core in from the left in task manager.

The second issue, probably related to the first, is that my CPU never drops below 3.4gHz, it used to drop down to 1.6gHz when at idle...

I have reset both UEFI, and checked to ensure the settings for speedstep and turbo mode are enabled, but I do not know what else to do, any guidance would be helpful, this is super irritating.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Ugh... More things not right..
> 
> Been running my rig since November 2013, and it ran fine previously. However, I've recently noticed a couple of anomalies, related I am sure...
> 
> Firstly, my 4930K has a single core that always runs at 20-50% load, all the others are 0-10%. I am not sure why that core, and I can not find any software culprit. It is the sixth core in from the left in task manager.
> 
> The second issue, probably related to the first, is that my CPU never drops below 3.4gHz, it used to drop down to 1.6gHz when at idle...
> 
> I have reset both UEFI, and checked to ensure the settings for speedstep and turbo mode are enabled, but I do not know what else to do, any guidance would be helpful, this is super irritating.


How long has this core issue been happening? Did you booted into a fresh os to rule out software/drivers? If so and it still persists perhaps try cycling the cores by disabling the 3rd core (assuming that's the hyper-thread on the 3rd core) boot then restart and reactivate it.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> How long has this core issue been happening? Did you booted into a fresh os to rule out software/drivers? If so and it still persists perhaps try cycling the cores by disabling the 3rd core (assuming that's the hyper-thread on the 3rd core) boot then restart and reactivate it.


I am not certain when it started, I noticed it after I had the issues with the XSPC block and the failure to post. I think it would be best to try to disable that third core before mucking about with software... If that doesn't help find the issue ill go about fighting software then.

So how do I go about disabling a single core?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I don't know if this board can do it off the top of my head to be honest. I know my old 780i board had that option (though it was for the physical core). You may have to turn off hyper-threading for all cores then switch on or use the special boot flag from msconfig and boot with only the first 2 cores. Wish I could be more help but I'm just heading out. I'll check back in later and see if I can help further.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I don't know if this board can do it off the top of my head to be honest. I know my old 780i board had that option (though it was for the physical core). You may have to turn off hyper-threading for all cores then switch on or use the special boot flag from msconfig and boot with only the first 2 cores. Wish I could be more help but I'm just heading out. I'll check back in later and see if I can help further.


That is kind of what I figured, as I've not seen anything with the option to disable a core, indeed any core, aside from HT of course...


----------



## electro2u

Did you install the monoblock reev3r?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Did you install the monoblock reev3r?


I have not yet. I wanted to have it installed by Saturday, which is when a project I am working on was meant to be finished, but unfortunately it is taking me longer than I had planned (actually hoping to start selling them to geeks/enthusiasts on here)...

I must have the rig up and running in order to work on it and I really don't want to risk it just yet, but hopefully it will be done soon.

Regarding what the project actually is... I am building a temperature display that will show the temps of various components in my rig, I have 10 digital temperature probes installed, and some of the options I want are difficult to program. Basically there is a primary display that will show the current/minimum and maximum temperatures for each probe, the current and max probe temperatures will also change colors if it exceeds a preset threshold (white for nominal, yellow for warning and red for danger), and then by touching the probe name (3.2" TFT touchscreen) it will switch to a graph of that probes temperature history. It will also show the current, min, max and average temps on this display.

In addition, the graph will change colors based on the temp, but only in the area where the temp exceeds the threshold.

So basically it will give you all of the necessary information for up to 10 probes, though this could be increased based on specific needs.

I do not know of any unit that is capable of not only this number of probes, but as well as the other options I am building into it. I am not offering them for sale here, I just wanted to toss the idea out there as a sort of feeler for people's interest in such unit and what they might be willing to pay for it...

I currently do not have the graph portion finalized, but the basic idea is there, as well, the main list of probes/temps is complete. I can include photographs of it if anybody is interested.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> That is kind of what I figured, as I've not seen anything with the option to disable a core, indeed any core, aside from HT of course...


I thought I saw an option in the UEFI but can't recall where. I'll look around tomorrow and see if I can find it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I do not know of any unit that is capable of not only this number of probes, but as well as the other options I am building into it. I am not offering them for sale here, I just wanted to toss the idea out there as a sort of feeler for people's interest in such unit and what they might be willing to pay for it...
> 
> I currently do not have the graph portion finalized, but the basic idea is there, as well, the main list of probes/temps is complete. I can include photographs of it if anybody is interested.


I'd be interested depending on cost, I wouldn't mind having some inline coolant temp and on-block temp readings. Post some pics, the little I've seen of it already looked good.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I thought I saw an option in the UEFI but can't recall where. I'll look around tomorrow and see if I can find it.
> 
> No worries, just let me know if you are able whenever you get the chance. I have been all through the UEFI on this board and have not seen anything that resembled that, though it is entirely possible I did not recognize it..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I'd be interested depending on cost, I wouldn't mind having some inline coolant temp and on-block temp readings. Post some pics, the little I've seen of it already looked good.


Photos are at the end if you aren't interested in my jabbering on... Prices are explained roughly toward the middle, suffice it to say the total cost will be around $55-75,depending on a few things I've yet to work out.

I am not entirely certain on the cost yet, I am not looking to make anything off of them, but also do not want to lose money either. Ultimately I have a few things to sort out first, one issue is wiring, as the probes need to be wired a certain way, but I also can't really do it for anybody because the distances will be different for each probe. Anyhow, the total cost (not including the probes) will be in the range of ~$30-50 depending on what I can source the main parts for. The probes (depending upon how many a person needs) I can usually source for $7.50/10 pcs. Which is a great deal, they normally cost around $2/probe.

Additionally, the other part is the enclosure, either a person can have me grab one and ship it out, or they can pick one up/build it themselves.

I expect the total cost, ready to install, with 10 probes to be in the range of $55-75 in total. I am hoping to be able to have a friend pick up a bunch of parts for me from radio shack, as they are selling some components for s uper cheap right now, which would bring the cost down by $15-25 depending on the specific parts, but that is only if they have them still...

I know I can get the cost down, but it requires finding a compatible microcontroller that still has the necessary ports for the display and probes, which is a challenge. I have considered using a different display as well, but this one is the most cost effective that can display all of the probes on one screen.

Anyhow, those are some details of the project as is. If you think about it, it is a really good deal, considering I have never seen anything under the $1,000 that can display 10 digital probes, and look to pay several thousand for graphing capabilities.

In addition, with some time and special programming, it can be made to display things like pump speed, waterlflow, fan speeds, loop pressure, coolant levels, voltages, it could even be had to control fans /pumps, but that is a bit more challenging... Heck, if you really wanted I could program it to control RGB LED's...

So in comparison to something like an Aquaero, it is far more versatile and the components to add such features mostly cost just a few dollars...

Those are some future updates I am considering depending on demand, which is really just a software update after the hardware is purchased. I am really excited to get these units refined and in people's hands, I really think it is a fantastic piece of kit for us tinkerers, modders, overclockers and liquid coolers out there.

Sorry, getting worked up just thinking about it!

My final note, is that if you don't want to buy the hardware from me and want to build it yourself, I will be offering the code to anybody that builds their own unit. It is based on an Arduino, and you can customize it however you want if you learn or know the programming language. Alternatively, you could surely source a programmer to do it for you, there are sites out there for that, though I can't recall the names...

Photographs:





As stated, it isn't yet finished and some kinks yet to work out, but that is the basic idea. Let me know any thoughts/ideas you may have...


----------



## reev3r

I wanted to add that the display looks much, much better in person, as well, it currently has the protective plastic covering it, which adds to the blurriness, but I plan to buy a screen protector once it is complete.

Also, I meant to add the hardware details for those interested...

It is based on an Arduino Mega2560 and a 3.2" Touchscreen TFT with an SD slot shield with a display shield adapter.

The display has a resolution of 320x240, which makes displaying more than 10 probes on a single display challenging, unless you omit the min/max temperatures, but I needed those as well.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I didn't read any of that yet, I wanted to pass on the core info. The cores can be turned off but you can't disable only certain cores like on my old 775 board. The option is in the advanced tab of the advanced settings page under active processor cores.

EDIT:

That's a lower cost than I was expecting. What does it look like with the enclosure and how easy would it be to set custom names for the probes? Other than that let me know when you get that finished, I'd like one in my rig.


----------



## Mega Man

@reev3r

shoulda seen JVCs controller before he went mia :/ i miss him

also dont be afraid to make profit, you are using your time, and you DESERVE to be paid for it !!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I didn't read any of that yet, I wanted to pass on the core info. The cores can be turned off but you can't disable only certain cores like on my old 775 board. The option is in the advanced tab of the advanced settings page under active processor cores.


I will definitely take a look here shortly and see what options it gives. Wondering what will happen when I disable 3 cores. I plan to disable HT first though to see if it is a logical or physical core.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> That's a lower cost than I was expecting. What does it look like with the enclosure and how easy would it be to set custom names for the probes? Other than that let me know when you get that finished, I'd like one in my rig.


I haven't yet decided on an enclosure just yet, I plan to modify an aluminum enclosure that came from an LED controller that died some time ago. That is just so I can save a bit myself on the 'prototype', as it were.

It started out as just a little project (don't they always, "Ooh, I can build a new rig for $600", then $2,000 later and all you have is two drives, a CPU, a motherboard and two cases you don't like... lol) with 4 or 5 probes, and a small Nokia 3110/5110 monochrome display, but as I progressed I found that getting it done for my initial price point of $35 was challenging, so I just kept adding more features and the price of mine quickly doubled... Given all of the items I purchased and ended up not using (analog temperature probes, two different displays, a less capable board, etc.), I will have easily over $100 into mine when it is done. lol

I wish I could show you what it will look like in an enclosure, but I can give you the dimensions and let you pick your own enclosure.

As for naming the probes, it will not be terribly challenging, just requires the use of the 'find' option a text editor to edit the program, and then you'll need the Arduino IDE to upload the new code to the unit (really easy to do). The challenge with changing the probe names is that there is no simple way to identify the probes, other than already knowing which is which. That is why I would plan to label and name the probes accordingly prior to sending them out. If you did need to change them at any point and do not feel comfortable mucking about in the code, just contact me and I will happily edit the code and send it to you with the labels changed.

I did want to ask everyone if there is a place to post something like this to see who would be interested... I checked the forums but did not see anything that seemed obvious, so if I could get some guidance on that it would most assuredly be appreciated.

If you like I can send you an update once I am ready to build.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I will definitely take a look here shortly and see what options it gives. Wondering what will happen when I disable 3 cores. I plan to disable HT first though to see if it is a logical or physical core.
> I haven't yet decided on an enclosure just yet, I plan to modify an aluminum enclosure that came from an LED controller that died some time ago. That is just so I can save a bit myself on the 'prototype', as it were.
> 
> It started out as just a little project (don't they always, "Ooh, I can build a new rig for $600", then $2,000 later and all you have is two drives, a CPU, a motherboard and two cases you don't like... lol) with 4 or 5 probes, and a small Nokia 3110/5110 monochrome display, but as I progressed I found that getting it done for my initial price point of $35 was challenging, so I just kept adding more features and the price of mine quickly doubled... Given all of the items I purchased and ended up not using (analog temperature probes, two different displays, a less capable board, etc.), I will have easily over $100 into mine when it is done. lol
> 
> I wish I could show you what it will look like in an enclosure, but I can give you the dimensions and let you pick your own enclosure.
> 
> As for naming the probes, it will not be terribly challenging, just requires the use of the 'find' option a text editor to edit the program, and then you'll need the Arduino IDE to upload the new code to the unit (really easy to do). The challenge with changing the probe names is that there is no simple way to identify the probes, other than already knowing which is which. That is why I would plan to label and name the probes accordingly prior to sending them out. If you did need to change them at any point and do not feel comfortable mucking about in the code, just contact me and I will happily edit the code and send it to you with the labels changed.
> 
> I did want to ask everyone if there is a place to post something like this to see who would be interested... I checked the forums but did not see anything that seemed obvious, so if I could get some guidance on that it would most assuredly be appreciated.
> 
> If you like I can send you an update once I am ready to build.


Isn't that the truth with projects lol! The first iteration is always the most costly because of development like you said but subsequent version are cheaper (at least generally).

I see, I thought you had some kind of enclosure in mind already for it. I think I'm comfortable enough with epoxy and wood working to make my own enclosure so that isn't a big deal.

I do enjoy digging around in code and being able to change it myself as I'd move the probes around would be best. As long as I could buy the cable from you also, or easily find it online/etc, I think that would be a fun learning experience. And if I fail horribly I know who to come to for help







. Definitely let me know when you're ready to build, this would really round off my rig!

As for posting, maybe try in the "other cooling" sub-forum here. I didn't find a spot where this would really fit either. Maybe the "cooling experiments" sub-forum. I don't know, a poll to gauge interest would likely be helpful too though.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @reev3r
> 
> shoulda seen JVCs controller before he went mia :/ i miss him
> 
> also dont be afraid to make profit, you are using your time, and you DESERVE to be paid for it !!


As much as I want to make a little money on them, I want to do a sort of test run first, that way I can identify any issues or requests before I start charging for them.


----------



## saer

Just a heads up to my fellow RIVBE owners, just listed my EK mobo block (classic) in the marketplace http://www.overclock.net/t/1542524/ek-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-motherboard-water-block

New and unused.

$10 off to anyone that mentions they saw the listing in this thread


----------



## Metatr0n

Hello fellow R4BE-owners, just wanted to introduce myself.

My rig is set up but far from finished, some parts, like the R4BE-Waterblocks, RAM and the PSU are arriving this week and hopefully my Liquid Extasy GPU cooler will arrive next week. (It's specially handmade for me, Marc from Liquid Extasy got the copper block at the beginning of this week, so he's already working on it)

The theme will be Black-Mint-Grey, I'm going to spray-paint the rings of the Corsair Fans today and I'm going to switch from the green dye to Mayhems Pastel Mint Green + white LEDs.
Probably next month I will switch over to a CaseLabs SMA8, going to give it to a custom painter who will paint it in Subaru Obsidian Black Pearl with green and blue flakes and the mainboard-tray in a mint green that matches the mint theme.
Also next week the mint green paracords will be available here, so I'm going to sleeve the cables then.

As soon as all the parts arrived, I'll disassamble the whole system again and start from scratch, so I'm going to do a build-log, probably my wife will film it so that I can put it on YouTube but I'm not sure about that one.

So far, take care.


----------



## CryptiK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Ugh... More things not right..
> 
> Been running my rig since November 2013, and it ran fine previously. However, I've recently noticed a couple of anomalies, related I am sure...
> 
> Firstly, my 4930K has a single core that always runs at 20-50% load, all the others are 0-10%. I am not sure why that core, and I can not find any software culprit. It is the sixth core in from the left in task manager.
> 
> The second issue, probably related to the first, is that my CPU never drops below 3.4gHz, it used to drop down to 1.6gHz when at idle...
> 
> I have reset both UEFI, and checked to ensure the settings for speedstep and turbo mode are enabled, but I do not know what else to do, any guidance would be helpful, this is super irritating.


Check in control panel > power options > advanced > min processor state


----------



## tcclaviger

While I do like my R4BE, I find it a bit dissapointing that hotwire can't be adjusted in windows instead of ok on the OC panel.

Also dissapointed with the performance. My R4G was faster at the same setting using the same ram and same cpu. 4700 on R4G is equal to 4800 on R4BE, identical configurations In BIOS and same windows instal.

Asus did such an incredible job optomizing the R4G it left nothing on the table in performance or OCing headroom.


----------



## Kimir

You have a 3960X, it is known that the original rampage 4 was doing better with the 3000 serie while the R4BE can be better with the 4000 serie.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CryptiK*
> 
> Check in control panel > power options > advanced > min processor state


Wouldn't that apply across all the cores though? It seems to work that way on mine.


----------



## wjturner78

almost got mine fired up


----------



## Mega Man

i like the theme


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> almost got mine fired up


Clean build, a little too busy for me though.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Clean build, a little too busy for me though.[/quo
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Clean build, a little too busy for me though.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks, ive put a ton of hours into it and am still not done. i agree theres alot of things competing for your eyes attention.
Click to expand...


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i like the theme


thanks, check out the build log im gonna try and update it daily


----------



## jjonestemp

http://valid.x86.fr/xjkf6z

just bumped the TPU all cores group timing ratio up to 44, and BOOM- extra 500 mhz perfectly stable...
can anybody help me on the next step?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> thanks, ive put a ton of hours into it and am still not done. i agree theres alot of things competing for your eyes attention.


It shows man and I'm not sure builds like this are ever truly finished. There is always _one last thing_ we want to add. lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjonestemp*
> 
> just bumped the TPU all cores group timing ratio up to 44, and BOOM- extra 500 mhz perfectly stable...
> can anybody help me on the next step?


What's the next step? lol


----------



## Mega Man

welp i have bad news, wife left for business trip

so i attempted again for the 15th billion time to get my 4 290xs ( removing the 295x2s ) into my rig,

as much as i love swiftech they mess up big on this block. you have to put all 4 in at the exact same time ( i think 2 would be fine, 3-4 no, oyu need to be able to remove the ports ) , now it looks awesome, but i have spent a year or 2 trying to do it LOL seriously obviously not solid 24/7 but yea....

so i finally get it in and tu da my pc will not show a image.....

i dont know what happened but i now know my first pcie slot is shot, and the 1st card was fully functional installed it with the block wityhout issue in the 3rd x16 slot :// so i bouight a new board hoping it is just the board and i will rma it

we shall see.... i am bummed


----------



## xarot

Maybe scratched the board with I/O shields?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

@megaman Wifes gone away ............. that's a bummer









Time to QUAD


----------



## Mega Man

hahaha

i dont think i scratched it, i heard a pop but all cards seem fine, i have not tested the other 3 though i just hope the board is bad and cpu is fine

4.8 stable with 2400 cl10 mem

as i sai di have a new board otw

worst case ill buy a 4930k but i hope i just put in new board and rma this one


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welp i have bad news, wife left for business trip
> 
> so i attempted again for the 15th billion time to get my 4 290xs ( removing the 295x2s ) into my rig,
> 
> as much as i love swiftech they mess up big on this block. you have to put all 4 in at the exact same time ( i think 2 would be fine, 3-4 no, oyu need to be able to remove the ports ) , now it looks awesome, but i have spent a year or 2 trying to do it LOL seriously obviously not solid 24/7 but yea....
> 
> so i finally get it in and tu da my pc will not show a image.....
> 
> i dont know what happened but i now know my first pcie slot is shot, and the 1st card was fully functional installed it with the block wityhout issue in the 3rd x16 slot :// so i bouight a new board hoping it is just the board and i will rma it
> 
> we shall see.... i am bummed


The komodo r9 blocks? They don't look like they need to be mounted all at once......


----------



## Mega Man

but, imagine you need to crossfire them

the 79xx series the connector piece was held on by 4 screws and could easily be taken off ( the peice that the water flows in/out)

this one does not , it has to have a sli connector ( water ) installed and in the case of 4 of them ..... all 4 gpus are connected


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> but, imagine you need to crossfire them
> 
> the 79xx series the connector piece was held on by 4 screws and could easily be taken off ( the peice that the water flows in/out)
> 
> this one does not , it has to have a sli connector ( water ) installed and in the case of 4 of them ..... all 4 gpus are connected


I remove / install my TRI 290's with XSPC blocks as one card . I mean in one piece


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I take it there isn't enough room to attach the water bridges after the fact then? The connection portions of the blocks do look rather chunky, I've never seen them in a multi-card configuration though. If it isn't too much trouble could you post a picture of them all hooked up?

Oh, why not group them in pairs? So you have card 1 & 2 then 3 & 4 with each pair running a parallel connection between the two cards (1 and 2 enter and exit through the top terminations of block 1 and 3 and 4 the bottom terminations of card 4). It wouldn't be the prettiest but should function well enough if you're really looking to put them under water.


----------



## Mega Man

To answer you no there is not enough room and looks. I wanted them plumbed together.

@htpc

I don't know how you do it. It is a pain. They like to fold and move. Unless you have a solid bridge. Then maybe

Either way. Now I have to test all cats ( last 3) and verify none died. By Friday I will gave the new mobo. And I gets find out of it is my cpu or my board


----------



## dboythagr8

I have a potential party interested in buying my Black Edition mobo + 4930k (I want to move to X99 platform). What price do you guys think I should put on the combo?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I have a potential party interested in buying my Black Edition mobo + 4930k (I want to move to X99 platform). What price do you guys think I should put on the combo?


I would say $550-600 for a quick sale, or $650-700 if he is committed...

Although, that's just me, I could be way off what other's feel the value is.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I have a potential party interested in buying my Black Edition mobo + 4930k (I want to move to X99 platform). What price do you guys think I should put on the combo?


So you have a 4k, a1440p 144hz and a 1600p monitor connected to single titan?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I have a potential party interested in buying my Black Edition mobo + 4930k (I want to move to X99 platform). What price do you guys think I should put on the combo?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I would say $550-600 for a quick sale, or $650-700 if he is committed...
> 
> Although, that's just me, I could be way off what other's feel the value is.


Yeah, 500-600 sounds reasonable. Maybe more if the chip is a really good clocker.


----------



## wjturner78

With this mobo is an extreme chip worth the extra money? Or is an K chip sufficient? I have a 3970x i havent fired up yet is it worth using or am i better suited selling it and getting like a 4930k?


----------



## Kimir

Both the X and K are 6 cores, the extra cache doesn't make much of a difference, the 4000 serie is better suited that the 3000 for this board. But it depend how far you can overclock those cpus...


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Both the X and K are 6 cores, the extra cache doesn't make much of a difference, the 4000 serie is better suited that the 3000 for this board. But it depend how far you can overclock those cpus...


supposedly it can go to 5 stable and possibly alittle beyond

http://www.overclock.net/t/1345666/i7-3970x-overclock-5-2ghz-r4e


----------



## Mega Man

ok so ... i am pissed
my new mobo was supposed to be delivered by today
so i could do it on the weekend

i paid for shipping delivery guarantee by today



when asked

they stated it was canceled due to poor weather in the area...

this is the "poor weather"



anyone else see the issue,

IT WAS NOT EVEN ATTEMPTED TO BE DELIVERED

now i have to go pick it up, but i have to have newegg authorize it....

what a pile this is... i hate crappy delivery companies, dont get me wrong they all have issues but fedex, usps, or ups would of had it done, ...

it has not been snowing for about a week in colorado ...... a week


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what a pile this is... i hate crappy delivery companies, dont get me wrong they all have issues but fedex, usps, or ups would of had it done, ...


USPS might have delivered it but it would be to the inverse address, 6 states over, and then claim they never even picked it up when you call in to complain! lol

Seriously though, I wouldn't trust USPS to ship horse poop to me if I was getting it for free. That's how bad they are in my area.


----------



## tcclaviger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> With this mobo is an extreme chip worth the extra money? Or is an K chip sufficient? I have a 3970x i havent fired up yet is it worth using or am i better suited selling it and getting like a 4930k?


The performance delta between a 3970x on the R4BE bs r4e is a touch over 2% in synthetic CPU benches, not much in real world use, totally indistinguishable.

The 49xx vs 39xx chips are a total wash and which is faster is dependant on how well any particular chip overclocks. Using a 3960xes C0 chip, I have gotten ram stable at 2400 on r4g, r4e, and r4be using the same cpu and quad channel kit, all 3 boards took 2400 with fairly tight timings.

Compared to 4960/5960 the 3960/70 is still a viable cpu when clocked at 4.7+, and generally only loses to the 5960 in multithreaded tasks like video editing etc. In games and general use the three are essentially tied for performance, each having games they are dominant at.

Only reason to jump from 39xx to 49xx is power draw, it saves you like 50 watts at max oc.

Also keep in mind, above 1.5 volts, your are damaging the chip every second it's powered on. Don't get caught on the "must stabilize at 5ghz" kick, it sucks, and tbh most chips won't do it without absurd voltages. The voltage increases required after 4600/4700 tend be huge on 39xx. Mine for example is 1.33-4600, 1.392-4700, 1.440-4800, 1.492-4900, 1.52-5000.


----------



## Mega Man

so since i went and picked up my new board ( RIVBE of course )

i put a x1 into the x16 slot and it worked fine, beginning to think something is up with the board .... i hope so, i guess i will find out in a bit ......


----------



## Mega Man

sorry for 2 posts, but great news. it does seem to be my board.

now to rma it, gonna also buy a 4930 as i dont see a purpose in having 2 rivbes and only 1 chip


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry for 2 posts, but great news. it does seem to be my board.
> 
> now to rma it, gonna also buy a 4930 as i dont see a purpose in having 2 rivbes and only 1 chip


If you're gonna go out and buy another chip, . . . why not move up to 59XX, sell 1 of the boards and go to X99 . .

I can't see any wisdom in buying more X79 generation bits, when you already have one working and it's truly at this point, EOL.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

well there is not black edition RV !


----------



## Hammonds

I have recently started having major issues with my PC, But before I get to that let's have a bit of history shall we?

I bought a R4E in Feb 2011 to mate with my 3960x.

12 March 2012 the audio died, I wasn't that phased as a cheap USB soundcard got me up and running again.

21 August 2013 I decided I wanted to watercool more than just my CPU, Got some GPU blocks & Board blocks.

3 January 2014 my PC just wouldn't turn on, many hours of problem solving later I came to the conclusion that the board was done, RMA was issued and the board was returned. 6 weeks later I received my 'refurbished board'.
Said refurbished board had melted ram dimms, onboard audio didn't work & the usb 3 didn't work.

16 February 2014 I packaged up the board, RMA was issued, begin the 6 week wait. I told them I did not want it fixed, I just wanted a new one. They agreed and sent me out a 'brand new in box' motherboard.

1 April 2014 Received my 'new in box board'. The box looked like it'd been used to play hockey with, Severely damaged box, My hopes were high that the inside was gonna be ok.
The box had everything in it all brand new! I thoroughly inspected and deemed the board to be new, Until I removed the heatsinks to find the dust, I felt cheated, robbed and was severely disappointed.

I couldn't believe they would go to such efforts to make it seem new when in fact it was just another refurbished board.

I installed it into the PC, everything went well, The sound worked, USB worked nothing was a problem. I was finally free of my damn failed boards.

That was until I went to turn it on the next day and it just did nothing. Doing a hard reset on the board removing power etc got me going again.

Turned out the board had sleep state, power on/off & reboot issues. Would not do any of them nicely. It started crashing sometime after pretty much as soon as the boot sequence was done.

7 April 2014, I sent a very lovely email to the folks whom were dealing with my RMA demanding a refund, They agreed it was the best solution however still wanted the board back so they could verify my claim. - Because you know, I really love spending so much of my time stripping the loop & putting it back together just to strip it again.

21 April 2014 My claim was verified, Refund was issued, There was a bit of a mess around with them not understanding I don't want the original money back & to just send me the R4BE.

Ordered some blocks for it which arrived a similar time to the board, Got it all installed everything was going great, Until last week...

1 March 2015 I was browsing ebay when suddenly i heard a POP and a burning smell. I quickly flicked everything off at the wall & unplugged the PSU. I had pretty much accepted the fact that my life was over & the board had died.

I pulled out the PC and started sniffing around for the source of the problem, Turned out it was my exhaust Noctua NF-A14. PHEW! Took it out, sent back for RMA, life became worth living.

Turns out I was wrong again....
My USB 2.0 was being 'screwy' some devices would work, some didn't, flash drives would power on but as soon as you actually tried to write something to them the device vanished & came back.
The sound coming from my speakers was horrendous, Changing to USB 3 fixed the problem.

I figured, hey, well USB 2.0 isn't all that great, I can live without it. (figuring it's not worth pulling the loop apart going through this whole process again).

I decided to do a fresh install of windows 8.1 (previously was on win 8) just in case that was the source of the problem.

Installed everything, all working well, doing the work, playing the games life was good.

Then the problem started, It crashes, All the time. Rolled everything back to stock, CPU OC, GPU OC, re-flashed the GPU bios back to stock. Problem was not fixed. The crashes seem to be both completely random & USB related (if i leave it for 2 hours come back and try move the mouse sometimes it'll just reboot sometimes not)

So here we are, Looking down the barrel of yet another RMA procedure unless I can diagnose the problem to be something else.

I have tested the CPU @ stock for 2 hours on IBT with max ram usage - No failures no crash.

I have tested the GPUs both single & SLI @ stock in pretty much every benchmark you can come up with & furmark. (currently have flicked off a PCI lane and just using one card)

I tested the RAM overnight using memtest, It had done 3 complete runs with 0 errors when I left for work this morning. I have left it running while at work, Will report back later.

The only other thing I can possibly test is the PSU? I have a Corsair AX1200I which I believe is a rock solid PSU however I guess it's worth a shot?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

What bios are you on?

The USB thing is semi-normal for me. Some of my peripherals don't work in certain usb ports. For example i have a 7 port usb2 hub that only works when it's plugged into certain usb2 ports on the mobo.

I had an external drive issue like you mentioned but it was the drive needing to be reformatted.

All that aside, what changed when you removed the fan? If everything was running fine until the pop then either something else went bad too or something was changed (even software). I'd check the psu just for good measure but from what I hear, when they go they usually take something with 'em.


----------



## Hammonds

Pretty sure it's 0701, I'm not home so cannot confirm. I remember seeing 0801 released but didn't upgrade because well everything was working fine & I have no need for Intelligent Memory.

I think i'll get rid of 8.1 when I get home and go back to 8, I had absolutely no issues with windows 8 but figured 8.1 bigger and better. Possibly wrong on that one.

Before the pop all my usb ports worked fine, But now most peripherals in the 2.0 do some seriously strange ****.


----------



## theSuperman4war

New owner... Putting my progress on the board.


http://imgur.com/f29qD


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hammonds*
> 
> Pretty sure it's 0701, I'm not home so cannot confirm. I remember seeing 0801 released but didn't upgrade because well everything was working fine & I have no need for Intelligent Memory.
> 
> I think i'll get rid of 8.1 when I get home and go back to 8, I had absolutely no issues with windows 8 but figured 8.1 bigger and better. Possibly wrong on that one.
> 
> Before the pop all my usb ports worked fine, But now most peripherals in the 2.0 do some seriously strange ****.


That very well might be it. I don't use 8/8.1 myself so I couldn't speak to any OS specific issues. Were there different drivers for 8.1 opposed to 8? That could have also been a factor.


----------



## DBaer

Hi all,
I have been using my RIVBE flawlessly since it came out. Today I was doing a trial of some system clean up software for an article I am writing and when it finished its thing it wanted a reboot which I let it do. When it rebooted it got to the ROG logo with the Press del or f2 to enter the BIOS message and then stopped. I can not finish the boot nor can I get into the BIOS. I have tried everything I know including updating the BIOS, booting with my SSD's and HDD disconnected, I have been messing with it for hours and no luck. When I boot all I can do is get to that screen and then the only thing I can do is power down.
It is difficult for me to believe that the trial clean up software I was testing could do that but this rig has not so much as hiccupped in almost a year and a half. It is acting like a MOBO failure of some kind but that would be quite a coincidence but still possible.
Any thoughts on things for me to try short of waiting for ASUS to open up in the morning and possibly asking for a warranty exchange?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Hi all,
> I have been using my RIVBE flawlessly since it came out. Today I was doing a trial of some system clean up software for an article I am writing and when it finished its thing it wanted a reboot which I let it do. When it rebooted it got to the ROG logo with the Press del or f2 to enter the BIOS message and then stopped. I can not finish the boot nor can I get into the BIOS. I have tried everything I know including updating the BIOS, booting with my SSD's and HDD disconnected, I have been messing with it for hours and no luck. When I boot all I can do is get to that screen and then the only thing I can do is power down.
> It is difficult for me to believe that the trial clean up software I was testing could do that but this rig has not so much as hiccupped in almost a year and a half. It is acting like a MOBO failure of some kind but that would be quite a coincidence but still possible.
> Any thoughts on things for me to try short of waiting for ASUS to open up in the morning and possibly asking for a warranty exchange?


A few things that you have not mentioned...

Sometimes simply unplugging your system (from the wall, not just flipping the switch on the PSU ) for about ten minutes, and then plugging it back in will resolve an issue.

Did you try using the secondary BIOS?

Have you reset the BIOS?

You did not tell us what the POST code readout is stuck on, perhaps you can refer to the manual to see if you can sort it out with the error code...

Please follow these steps and let us know the results...

Good luck!


----------



## DBaer

Thanks for the response, yeah, I have tried the unplug, reset the BIOS and tried the secondary BIOS. I also flashed a newer BIOS using the USB bios flashback. Before I reflashed the BIOS the post code stopped on 9C for about 30 seconds then stopped on 62. Now it stops on 70. It actually acts as if there is no BIOS at all but if the BIOS chip had failed I would not think that the flashback indicator would show that the BIOS reflash had been successful.
I have reset all memory even checked all plugs and connections.

I would think that is the trial software I was testing had torked my OS or even boot drive in some way I would still be able to get into the BIOS.
Very frustrating!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

When you flashed the bios via the usb key option did you make sure you put the key in the right port? There is only 1 port that works with that option.

If you did place it in the right port, did you flash the new bios to both bios chips? If not I'd try that.

What program where you using?


----------



## DBaer

Thanks, yes I used the correct USB port but I did not try flashing to both chips, good thought, I will try that and flash the other one just in case it is that chip (the one I flashed to).
While it is probably a coincidence that it was a reboot after a utility trial it is possible that the software caused it but until I find out for sure I do not want to give out the name, also I am under NDA but if it turns out to be the cause of the software I will be free to publish that as part of the review.


----------



## tcclaviger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> Thanks, yes I used the correct USB port but I did not try flashing to both chips, good thought, I will try that and flash the other one just in case it is that chip (the one I flashed to).
> While it is probably a coincidence that it was a reboot after a utility trial it is possible that the software caused it but until I find out for sure I do not want to give out the name, also I am under NDA but if it turns out to be the cause of the software I will be free to publish that as part of the review.


If you ask Asus, they will tell you to pull the battery and leave it unplugged from the wall overnight. If it still won't boot, I suggest rolling back bios to older version and disable uefi security in the bios if you can get in it. If it still won't let you in try direct key function. This should all be done with 1 stick of ram, cpu, and 1 video card only ofc, nothing else connected.

If none of those work.... board is due for RMA sadly as it has to be a stop error caused by a faulty device.

It sure is frustrating when mobo go bad seemingly randomly.


----------



## DBaer

I have now flashed both BIOS chips. I left it unplugged overnight, I have done the one Ram thing and no change. I still can not get into even the BIOS.


----------



## tcclaviger

RMA my friend, sorry to hear of your trouble. Probably the one thing that makes me want to smash stuff... when a mobo dies randomly.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> I have now flashed both BIOS chips. I left it unplugged overnight, I have done the one Ram thing and no change. I still can not get into even the BIOS.


Have you got anything still plugged in but keyboard and display? That is the point I got to with my board, I disconn3cted everything, all drives, all peripherals, etc. except for my keyboard and my display, and that is how I got back in and figured out the issue... Give it a try...

Sorry you are going through this mess, I do know how much it sucks. :-(


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> RMA my friend, sorry to hear of your trouble. Probably the one thing that makes me want to smash stuff... when a mobo dies randomly.


lol this


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> So you have a 4k, a1440p 144hz and a 1600p monitor connected to single titan?


No. I had 3 Titan Blacks and am now down to 1. Because of that setup I would constantly change my primary monitors for testing or because I felt like it. Right now I am using my ROG Swift with a 120hz Asus panel as my secondary. I change my primary monitor out pretty often depending on my mood. Right now the Dell U3011 and Samsung 4k monitor are in the closet


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> I have now flashed both BIOS chips. I left it unplugged overnight, I have done the one Ram thing and no change. I still can not get into even the BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you got anything still plugged in but keyboard and display? That is the point I got to with my board, I disconn3cted everything, all drives, all peripherals, etc. except for my keyboard and my display, and that is how I got back in and figured out the issue... Give it a try...
> 
> Sorry you are going through this mess, I do know how much it sucks. :-(
Click to expand...

This ^^^^

And be sure it's a PS2 keyboard as well, if may still fail with a USB keyboard.

I'm betting the software hosed you, not a random coincidental failure.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Yes make sure not usb mouse or keyboard, i had a mouse die on me!! Was shorting out and i had the same problem as you!! Drove me about crazy to find problem!!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBaer*
> 
> I have now flashed both BIOS chips. I left it unplugged overnight, I have done the one Ram thing and no change. I still can not get into even the BIOS.


I just can't imagine a piece of software (production) that would bork hardware... I mean, wrecking an OS installation, sure, that can, and will, happen, but to cause a system not to even POST, that is just insanity...

I am now curious as to what software it is, so that I can ensure I completely avoid it... Maybe just try with EVERYTHING disconnected except for your display... Also, if you have any spare hardware, RAM, GPU, CPU, etc. etc. Definitely give those a try also.


----------



## tcclaviger

It does happen. Remember the Asus debacle with GPU Tweak destroying 780ti Matrix RAM is voltage was adjusted with LN2 mode enabled...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> It does happen. Remember the Asus debacle with GPU Tweak destroying 780ti Matrix RAM is voltage was adjusted with LN2 mode enabled...


I have never used GPU tweak, I prefer Precision X, as well, I skipped the 7 series of cards as there was not sufficient performance over my 670's to care enough. That being said, GPU Tweak is designed to modify hardware parameters, and although I do not know the specifics of the issue with GPU Tweak, it is always possible to damage your video card with it, I suspect I should have been more specific in my comment...

I can't imagine software that isn't designed to modify hardware parameters damaging a motherboard. So unless he was overclocking/modifying hardware, I wouldn't suspect that it is software related. However, anything can happen, and really, nothing would surprise me at this point, given the bizarre things I have experienced with hardware and software in the past. lol


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am now curious as to what software it is, so that I can ensure I completely avoid it...


Exactly why I asked what program it was








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I can't imagine software that isn't designed to modify hardware parameters damaging a motherboard. So unless he was overclocking/modifying hardware, I wouldn't suspect that it is software related. However, anything can happen, and really, nothing would surprise me at this point, given the bizarre things I have experienced with hardware and software in the past. lol


At the moment we don't even know whose program it is let alone what it does. It's possibly it does alter hardware parameters or has a bug that does the same. Remember he was beta testing it and is under NDA.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Exactly why I asked what program it was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment we don't even know whose program it is let alone what it does. It's possibly it does alter hardware parameters or has a bug that does the same. Remember he was beta testing it and is under NDA.


Yeah, that is why I made the correction to my previous statement, as well, I won't ask what it is, because obviously the response will be, "NDA" lol. It is obviously in early stage development, and if it is actually the culprit, then surely with his feedback they will have solved the issue by public release.

I just hope that it isn't the issue and that the rig is back up and running without going through the RMA process.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Me too, mobo RMAs are rough. I stopped beta testing because of stuff like this. Got tired of taking all the risk and not getting anything out of it lol.


----------



## ledzepp3

Over the past 3-4 months, I've been having a really strange issue that's been difficult to diagnose. I got my first Black Edition, which was DOA. Got sent back to Asus, and the new one I got back worked perfectly for a solid 6 months.

But recently I was getting random hard shutdowns on a completely stable OC. Ran within the temperature thresholds just fine, but the problem persisted. I was then told it was my PSU- so that went off to Silverstone for an RMA.

Got it back, popped all the wires back in, and it's still happening.

So then I ran Memtest and no errors came back through several rounds of testing... It must have been the board right? So that got sent back in a week or two ago, and I literally got it back today. Got everything wired back up, hit the power button, and at first everything seemed fine. As soon as I'd try to boot into W8.1, the code on the board would jump from AE to 00 and then do a hard shutdown. A few times I've gotten all the way to the Windows loading screen, but as soon as the screen would go dark as if it was logging me in, the rig would do a hard shut down.

Previously, I had a board that would only crash while doing [email protected] work, now I get a board back that won't even boot all the freaking way up?! Thanks, Asus. At this point, I'm almost ready to dump my X79 system, and frame my basically useless board above my desk since it's so freaking wicked looking.

Any advice?

Specs on rig:
3930K (@ stock right now)
Rampage IV Black Edition
Corsair Dominator GT 16GB (4X4GB) 2000Mhz
(X2) AMD Radeon R9-290X (not X-Fired atm)
Asus Raidr PCI SSD
Silverstone ST-1000G
(X2) Samsung 840EVO 250GB SSD
Full WC loop

-Zepp


----------



## electro2u

It's your cpu's memory controller degrading maybe. Try running the RAM at stock 1600mhz and see if it continues.


----------



## ledzepp3

Delete


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I tried it at 1600, 1333, 1066, and even 800 and no cigar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might try to over volt the mem controller, but if that'll hurt the chip more, then I think I'll just find a used 4930K :/


Edit: Just tried to over volt the memory controller, and no luck with that either.


----------



## ledzepp3

Delete.


----------



## tcclaviger

Nevermind, saw you are on a new problem now lol. Have you tried stripping it down to minimum components as suggested just a few posts ago for a different owner? It's the best way to isolate problems.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> Nevermind, saw you are on a new problem now lol. Have you tried stripping it down to minimum components as suggested just a few posts ago for a different owner? It's the best way to isolate problems.


I've been trying to do that, but now it's going all the way to either the Windows Automatic Repair, or it'll hang on a black screen. Every once in a while it'll hang on code 04, but that's it :/


----------



## electro2u

Does it go to Bios with the boot drive disco?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Does it go to Bios with the boot drive disco?


What does disco mean in this case?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> What does disco mean in this case?



Disconnected sorry =)


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> Disconnected sorry =)


It always boots into the BIOS, without a single issue. I've tried swapping SATA cables out to see if that'd help get my rig all the way to Windows, but again, no cigar.

Speaking of which, one of those would really help right now


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> It always boots into the BIOS, without a single issue. I've tried swapping SATA cables out to see if that'd help get my rig all the way to Windows, but again, no cigar.
> 
> Speaking of which, one of those would really help right now


Have you tried a different boot drive?

Try installing windows on a spare drive if practicable.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Have you tried a different boot drive?
> 
> Try installing windows on a spare drive if practicable.


I suppose I can try to boot from an old XP drive I have laying around :


----------



## ledzepp3

No luck with that. Haven't been able to get the Windows loading screen to pop up anymore


----------



## tcclaviger

Your mobo isn't showing any red lights by the 24 pin connector on the outside edge is it? Showing both amber led by the pcie dipswitches? f no red by 24 pin and both amber led lit, I would be apprehensive to blame the mobo if it is getting past the bios splash.

Can you load memtestx86 and try that just to confirm the board,cpu, and ram are functional? Your symptoms sound like windows is loading a driver that causes a conflict leading to a hard shutdown. My first instinct points to the storage subsystem, it is fairly complex insanity of x79, asmedia, 2 ssds, the pcie drive, and the cluster **** that is the intel RST vs RST-e situation, then top it off with UEFI security and it's a recipe for disaster imho.

Is this win 7 or 8 you are working with?


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> Your mobo isn't showing any red lights by the 24 pin connector on the outside edge is it? Showing both amber led by the pcie dipswitches? f no red by 24 pin and both amber led lit, I would be apprehensive to blame the mobo if it is getting past the bios splash.
> 
> Can you load memtestx86 and try that just to confirm the board,cpu, and ram are functional? Your symptoms sound like windows is loading a driver that causes a conflict leading to a hard shutdown. My first instinct points to the storage subsystem, it is fairly complex insanity of x79, asmedia, 2 ssds, the pcie drive, and the cluster **** that is the intel RST vs RST-e situation, then top it off with UEFI security and it's a recipe for disaster imho.
> 
> Is this win 7 or 8 you are working with?


I'm now getting all the way past the Windows loading screen, and then getting code 04 on the post readout... There's no red light next to the 24-pin past the normal boot process, and there are amber lights above the SATA port bank.

EDIT: Board is no longer recognizing half of my memory. It's identified in the DIMM post section in the advanced settings page, but is not recognized otherwise


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Have you contacted the software company or posted in their beta forum? I'd make sure to let them know about this, they may even already know and have a solution/answer.

Where else are you looking that shows less recognized ram than in the Dimm post section?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Have you contacted the software company or posted in their beta forum? I'd make sure to let them know about this, they may even already know and have a solution/answer.
> 
> Where else are you looking that shows less recognized ram than in the Dimm post section?


im fairly confident that i wanna stay as far away from this software as i can, regardless of its culpability


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> im fairly confident that i wanna stay as far away from this software as i can, regardless of its culpability


I was just suggesting that they may have some answers or insights we don't.









At very least they'd be informed that something went incredibly wrong.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I was just suggesting that they may have some answers or insights we don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At very least they'd be informed that something went incredibly wrong.


I know, and your completely right. I'm just super curious what the software was so I can avoid it like ebola....


----------



## ledzepp3

Under the "Main" tab in the BIOS it only shows 8GB of memory, but in the GPU/DIMM Post menu, it's showing that there's four sticks posting (which there should be). I thought I'd try to repair W8.1 from the disk, but now I'm getting A2 codes and endless shutdowns whenever the disk drive is running in the rig. It'll refuse to post if the drive is in, and I'll get a blue screen from Windows if it's not plugged in- and I can't find a damn thing that's wrong with the physical setup.

Edit: WHAT THE HELL?! I got into the Asus DRAM SPD Information tab and it's now reading that slots A2 and B2 are "abnormal", but it's also showing that C1 and D1 are recognized and it's saying they are "ok".


----------



## electro2u

Try one stick at a time?


----------



## Mega Man

so finally got my rig back up and running, went with 295x2s

however ... newest non beta bios

and my pc wont downclock ?

for some reason windows min power was turned to 100% >..>


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I know, and your completely right. I'm just super curious what the software was so I can avoid it like ebola....


There's a few of us wondering that, wonder when we're going to find out xD. Maybe we should get a pool going. lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Under the "Main" tab in the BIOS it only shows 8GB of memory, but in the GPU/DIMM Post menu, it's showing that there's four sticks posting (which there should be). I thought I'd try to repair W8.1 from the disk, but now I'm getting A2 codes and endless shutdowns whenever the disk drive is running in the rig. It'll refuse to post if the drive is in, and I'll get a blue screen from Windows if it's not plugged in- and I can't find a damn thing that's wrong with the physical setup.
> 
> Edit: WHAT THE HELL?! I got into the Asus DRAM SPD Information tab and it's now reading that slots A2 and B2 are "abnormal", but it's also showing that C1 and D1 are recognized and it's saying they are "ok".


Perhaps it is a cpu issue like someone said earlier.


----------



## tcclaviger

Does sound like it might be a failed memory controller on the CPU....


----------



## ledzepp3

I know a guy in town who I can have test my CPU on a different board with other memory, so I'll give that a shot









-Zepp


----------



## fishingfanatic

Hey Zepp, I had 2 boards like that. Both sabretooth's. Rma it. Take a pile of pics, they tried to accuse me of messing it up, yet it came straight out of the box like that. Not 1 but 2!!!

Bios wouldn't show it, Windows didn't either. 3DMark and Unigine saw them???? Be sure to clean out all of the slots, look at a Q tip to clean the pci-e connections on the card. A new board acted up only to

find a dog hair...







I have 2 dogs, and on occasion they will open the door if I don't close it completely to come and c what's going on.

Good luck. Try 1 stick per slot to c if u can to determine which slot is acting up.

I had 1 on each board, different location each time.

I no longer buy Asus products brand new. That way I know they work and I won't get a refurb in return!!!

Their boards were all I ever used 'til then. Now I have gotten rid of almost all of my Asus JUNK!!! Still haven't gotten my boards replaced. 1 was but now I have no sound, and one of the replacements was

worse than what I sent and then they tried to charge me to fix it!! Their techs would never send out a board like that is what I was told. I worked as a trademan in a factory and I KNOW mistakes happen, but

that was the last straw. Never again unless I have absolutely no choice.

FF


----------



## Madmaxneo

This build should have been completed 7 months ago but life gets in the way sometimes....

I was finally able to order my CPU (4930k) for this board, and it came today! I am in the process of getting everything together and organizing the cables (the NZXT Phantom 820 cables are all tangled within each other and there are so many). The 820 case has a fan controller in it and all the fans are already connected so I just left it like that while trying to organize all the cables, then I realized the fans probably need to be connected to the MB for the OC panel to control them.

-- Is it safe to assume I need to connect all the fans to the MB for the OC panel to be able to control them?

My water cooler (H240-X) will be here next Tuesday the 17th of March but for now I will probably use my evo 212 in the system I am currently using. I think I will be busy all weekend getting this system up and running with all my programs and games on it, oh joy. But it'll be worth it.
Then the last two things for this build are the graphics card (either a GTX 970 or a 980 though the 980 isn't really worth the price jump) and the ASUS VG248QE monitor.

Bruce


----------



## Mega Man

happens i do understand.

i dont think the oc panel can control all fans but idk i never used it for that


----------



## SpecTRe-X

OC panel only controls fans connected directly to it as far as I know. It doesn't even have that many headers.


----------



## z0ki

Guys I have a strange issue all of a sudden. I went to try a different driver for my gpu's for overclocking purposes. And I noticed that my second card in the 3rd slot does not work if it is set to GEN 3 in the bios all of a sudden? When I set it to gen 2 the second card works? Prior I had them all as gen 3. Nothing changed aside from running DDU for my gpu driver uninstall and installing a new driver

Sent from my GT-I9505G using Tapatalk


----------



## tcclaviger

@zoki, roll back the older driver so you verify that you can repeat the issue.

@madmaxneo the oc panel headers can control via pwm so if all your fans are pwm controlled you can connect a huge number to the OC panel as long as you wire 12v and ground directly to the psu and leave the rpm and pwm signal to connect to the OC panel.

As I understand it, the OC panel fan profiles change between preset profiles for itself only, mine does not change my fans when cycling through the OC panel settings and they are connected to the motherboard.


----------



## z0ki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> @zoki, roll back the older driver so you verify that you can repeat the issue.


Do you mean the bios or gpu driver? If so yes I have tried a couple of both with the same issue









Sent from my GT-I9505G using Tapatalk


----------



## Madmaxneo

I got my board up and running but not without some difficulty. When I first connected everything and tried booting up the computer I got nothing, the PSU fan would not even start. I connected the test connector for the PSU and it worked, but still nothing when connected to the MB. I also double checked all of my connections and they were secure. I then connected the PSU from my old PC and I at least got the MB start light to glow (That PSU can't power the whole board). I also used my cheap PSU tester and that indicated the PSU was running fine. I contacted EVGA tech support and while talking to them I had reattached everything and the board booted up just fine. Weird?
Now though I have some other issues:
1. I get a CPU fan error in the boot screen but the CPU fan works just fine. In fact I am on running off of that MB now and the temps are in the mid 20's. But I still get that error and had to disable the "wait for F1" option in the bios to get the system to boot. I also tried the "opt CPU fan" connection and I get the same error. In the bios it does report the CPU fan running at something like 750 rpm's.
2. I installed 2 8gb ripjaws 2100mhz RAM modules, but it is only reading one and at 1333mhz. I get the same results in the EVGA E-LEET tuning program.

Though I just recently completed this build last night (minus the new GPU and monitor) I originally purchased the MB back in July of last year (this build was originally planned to be finished in September....
According to the ASUS website it is still under the 3 year warranty. I have been on hold with ASUS tech support now for like 30 mins but no live operators just yet.

I downloaded a bunch of the latest MB drivers and whatnot from the ASUS website but I'm not sure how to check the current system to ensure they need to be update. I will be rebooting soon and checking the bios revision number though to compare against the latest bios update.
One update I downloaded indicates support for 16gb RAM modules. Do they even make 16gb DDR3 modules?......

I just tried leaving a message with ASUS tech support and their mailbox is full. So I am back on hold after having to call back. I may try going through a different tech support option.

Can someone please help?

My H240x water cooler should arrive this next Tuesday, I hope to have all this up and running perfectly by then.
I really hope I don't need to RMA this board.

Bruce

EDIT: The two RAM modules I installed are the Trident X series and from I have been told they should be running at the default of 1800mhz. I would have to upscale the RAM voltage to get the full 2133mhz speed.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I was finally able to talk to ASUS tech support and he had me adjust the CPU low RPM speed to 200 rpm's but that didn't help. I also changed the fan to the opt CPU fan and even tried using the advanced mode for the CPU fan speed controller and I am still getting that CPU fan error message, but it is all working fine.
He said I should do a BIOS upgrade (as my BIOS rev is 0602 and the latest is 0802). But the instructions he gave me are for the Rampage V x99 board, so I am not sure what to rename the file for bios flash to work correctly. I found a video on the EZUpdate. I am going to see if that works....


----------



## tcclaviger

If I were in your shoes, I would do an advanced RMA to get a new board in hand so you have two there and can verify that it's the board. The memory issues alone warrant a MB swap.

Check their functionality outside the case on a table top, with just cpu/ram/video if both boars exibit the issues it's cpu or psu.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I went into the bios EZ panel and could not find an ez set up. I know of the bios flash button on the back but I am not sure if I need to change the name of the update on my USB stick so I will wait until someone responds.
I did mess with the RAM settings and first tried the 2133mhz setting and all I got was the system rebooting over and over again.... So I reset it and walked it up to the 1866mhz, which is supposed to be the default setting. I will need to change the voltage for the RAM to increase it to the 2133mhz but I will wait on some advice on that first.

I noticed something when I was messing around with the RAM settings and that is it was only reading the RAM module in the A1 slot (which is where the tech told me to place the module that was in the D1 slot) where earlier it was only reading the B1 slot. Note that the manual indicates using the B1 and D1 slots for only using two RAM modules. So I decided to put the second module in the A2 slot and now I am reading both modules.

Is this normal?

Maybe once I figure out how to correctly do the bios update it will all get fixed.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

@Madmaxneo R4BE.cap is what the bios file has to be renamed to.

Edit: can you link your specific ram kit?

I'm not aware of any single stick that has a 16gb capacity, perhaps its 16gb total and just poorly worded?

I'm not sure what's going on with your cpu fan headers erroring. It sounds like they still control the fans though, right? If they do then I wouldn't worry about it too much unless it follows through after the bios update.

The psu issue was weird, maybe something wasn't plugged in as securely as you previously thought. What wattage is it?


----------



## Madmaxneo

@SpecTRe-X Thanks for the bios file rename.

As far as the 16 gb single RAM stick capacity, I was not aware of it either but ASUS has a bios update for it, saying the max RAM is now 128 gb.
I am going to do the BIOS update now and I will let you know how everything works out.

I double checked the PSU connections when I first started having problems. I then double checked them when the EVGA tech asked me to. I have an EVGA SuperNova G2 1000W.
Maybe I didn't leave it sit long enough before giving in and going through all the trouble shooting steps. It does seem like it took less time to get to the boot screen the first few times I booted up the system but now it boots up pretty quickly all the way in the OS.


----------



## Mega Man

that is so the board will recognize 16gb sticks

reinstalled windows,

between origin and aisuite ( which i gave up on )

i hate reinstall


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that is so the board will recognize 16gb sticks
> 
> reinstalled windows,
> 
> between origin and aisuite ( which i gave up on )
> 
> i hate reinstall


You and me both! Origin is better than Uplay but not as good as Steam. With Uplay you have to actually re-download then install every single game (which is primarily why I don't purchase that many games from them. With Origin all you have to do is start the install for every game but have it point at the drive and directory where the games are and it will complete within seconds. But Steam is the easiest, all I had to do was point the program at my Steam games folder and like magic they all work, even after a fresh install to windows 8.1 from windows 7. I am so happy Steam works that way because, though I only have about 110 games, re-installing all of them would just not be any kind of fun. If you didn't know I have all my games on my D drive.

Back to my issues with the R4BE. I did the BIOS update and all seemed to go well but when I booted it up the bios still read version 0602. I tried it again and no luck, so I went to the next lower one (0702 I think) and my board would not even post with a code of 00. So I hit reset and now I am back to still using 0602.

I will try contacting them tomorrow and see if they can help.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Which method did you try, the usb stick in the back w/ the bios flash button?

Try switching to your other bios chip and flashing that and report back. Someone else was having this same issue a few pages back. Curious.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I'll look into that as soon as I figure out how to switch the bios chip.

New issue this time with the sound quality. I quickly realized that when I play my music it only comes through the two front speakers and I have a z906 5.1 speaker system connected to this computer via optical cable.... I have no surround sound whatsoever and when I turn on my headphones they are in single channel and this is a surround sound headset!
I am currently using the Realtek software because I was unable to find the Soundblaster stuff, which was supposed to come with the board. So where do I find the Soundblaster stuff?
If need be I will install my Zx soundcard but the audio on this board was listed as having better quality sound, but I can't experience that unless I get the Soundblaster programs installed...

EDIT: I have the Realtek audio sweet set to DTS connect and there is no difference.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Guys I have a strange issue all of a sudden. I went to try a different driver for my gpu's for overclocking purposes. And I noticed that my second card in the 3rd slot does not work if it is set to GEN 3 in the bios all of a sudden? When I set it to gen 2 the second card works? Prior I had them all as gen 3. Nothing changed aside from running DDU for my gpu driver uninstall and installing a new driver
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505G using Tapatalk


Have you verified what version PCIe it is running when set to auto?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I'll look into that as soon as I figure out how to switch the bios chip.


Left side of picture


----------



## Madmaxneo

Thanks, I haven't got around to looking into that just yet, as I have been going through loading all the programs I had on my old system onto this one. There is a chance it is my USB stick. The stick or sticks I am using are supposed to be 64gb sticks that I purchased through a Chinese company way back in 2013. I purchased one and it was only reading like 5gb no matter what I did so I contacted them and they sent me a new one. This happened like 3 times before I told them to forget it. Since they were the only sticks I have I decided to check them out and they actually seemed to work fine now in Win 8, and the one was actually reading 64gb. So it might be that. I am going to get a new USB stick now and see if that helps.

Bruce


----------



## Madmaxneo

It worked that time, I am now running off of the 0801 bios revision. It was a faulty USB drive, which is one of the reasons I will never purchase something that has to be shipped from China directly to me.

So anyone know where I can get some 16gb DDR3 sticks?...lol. I wonder how bad the latency will be on those.

Now I have all these other updates that I downloaded from the ASUS website to go through and install.

I have installed the AI suite from the disc and it seems to be running fine though once I get the water cooler I may ask some of you more experienced OCers for some advice on hitting as close to (if not over) 5ghz.
In the next two days I should be getting my first water cooler and hopefully that will help correct the cpu fan error issue.

In the next two months I hope to be able to get the GTX 970 graphics card and the ASUS VG248QE monitor. Then the real fun begins!

I wonder how good 3d will look on that setup?

Bruce


----------



## electro2u

http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC4-2133-Registered-CT4K16G4RFD4213-CT4C16G4RFD4213/dp/B00KUSMVVS
16GBx4 CL15


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC4-2133-Registered-CT4K16G4RFD4213-CT4C16G4RFD4213/dp/B00KUSMVVS
> 16GBx4 CL15


That's DDR4 though. The socket 2011 (not v3) uses DDR3.

I hope someone who does not know what to look for does not buy that for the older socket 2011 boards. In the comparison part it lists that RAM as DDR3 but in the title and in the description snippets it is listed as DDR4. As far as I know there are no DDR3 16gb RAM strips. This is the same thing with my older socket 775 board. The bios can apparently support 4gb ram modules which would mean I could have 16gb in that machine instead of the current max of 8. But I have as of yet been unable to find any 4gb strips of DDR2 RAM.

You know the odd thing, both of these boards are ASUS boards.....


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That's DDR4 though. The socket 2011 (not v3) uses DDR3.
> 
> I hope someone who does not know what to look for does not buy that for the older socket 2011 boards. In the comparison part it lists that RAM as DDR3 but in the title and in the description snippets it is listed as DDR4. As far as I know there are no DDR3 16gb RAM strips. This is the same thing with my older socket 775 board. The bios can apparently support 4gb ram modules which would mean I could have 16gb in that machine instead of the current max of 8. But I have as of yet been unable to find any 4gb strips of DDR2 RAM.
> 
> You know the odd thing, both of these boards are ASUS boards.....


They have 16gb ecc but I think your right that nonecc is max at 8


----------



## ledzepp3

So do you guys think I should just go down the route of Ivy-E from all the problems I've been having lately with my Sandy-E setup?


----------



## Madmaxneo

@wjturner78 That's the thing, my socket 775 board only supports non ecc, so why the bios update? Well that is unless the bios update allows the board to support ecc RAM. I know the difference between ecc (error correcting code) and non ecc but I don't know if there are physical differences on the MB.

Apparently there are server MB's that support 128gb (may be even higher) on one DIMM when it comes to DDR4 so it is safe to assume that you can get more than 8gb sticks of RAM for DDR3, but it will probably be very very expensive.

I know the guy who owns a local game store and he has his dream machine at the store and it apparently has 196 gb of RAM with two xenon processors that he has OC'd to something like 5.8ghz. Though I doubt he gets better performance than others with a single i7 processor OC'd to that end. But I don't know much more about his setup.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@ledzepp3 What was the result of your friend testing out your cpu?
According to Wikipedia there is not much difference between sandy and Ivy, Except Sandy is a little larger and supposedly runs cooler (they say the skinny ones are always hotter)







. But they are apparently based on the same architecture.
But, also according to Wikipedia:
Ivy is to Sandy:
A. 3% to 6% increase in CPU performance when compared clock for clock
B. 25% to 68% increase in integrated GPU performance.

I didn't know Ivy had integrated GPU chips... I honestly don't see why someone would want that in a chip like this.

If your going with this extreme of a chip why would you want to use integrated graphics?

But then it goes on to explain that Ivy-e does not have integrated graphics.................


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> So do you guys think I should just go down the route of Ivy-E from all the problems I've been having lately with my Sandy-E setup?


It _has_ been stated all over that the RivBE was designed more for ivy-e than sandy-e. The non-be edition rive is what works best for sandy-e from what I've read. It isn't my understanding that running a sandy-e chip on the rivbe will give more issues than the same board with an ivy-e chip but I may be mistaken.

I do know that I'm running an ivy-e chip (4820) and haven't seen any issues other than my mixed ram sets. Whether that's based o the chip/board combo or not I couldn't realistically say.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @wjturner78 That's the thing, my socket 775 board only supports non ecc, so why the bios update? Well that is unless the bios update allows the board to support ecc RAM. I know the difference between ecc (error correcting code) and non ecc but I don't know if there are physical differences on the MB.
> 
> Apparently there are server MB's that support 128gb (may be even higher) on one DIMM when it comes to DDR4 so it is safe to assume that you can get more than 8gb sticks of RAM for DDR3, but it will probably be very very expensive.
> 
> I know the guy who owns a local game store and he has his dream machine at the store and it apparently has 196 gb of RAM with two xenon processors that he has OC'd to something like 5.8ghz. Though I doubt he gets better performance than others with a single i7 processor OC'd to that end. But I don't know much more about his setup.


I think the max limit likely exceeds the real-world capacity for single ram sticks just in case someone _does_ happen to produce such high density ram chips.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @ledzepp3 What was the result of your friend testing out your cpu?
> According to Wikipedia there is not much difference between sandy and Ivy, Except Sandy is a little larger and supposedly runs cooler (they say the skinny ones are always hotter)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But they are apparently based on the same architecture.
> But, also according to Wikipedia:
> Ivy is to Sandy:
> A. 3% to 6% increase in CPU performance when compared clock for clock
> B. 25% to 68% increase in integrated GPU performance.
> 
> I didn't know Ivy had integrated GPU chips... I honestly don't see why someone would want that in a chip like this.
> 
> If your going with this extreme of a chip why would you want to use integrated graphics?
> 
> But then it goes on to explain that Ivy-e does not have integrated graphics.................


Are you sure that's talking about Sandy Bridge E and Ivy Bridge E and not their non-E counterparts? As far as I know sandy and ivy e chips are exclusive to lga 2011 and don't have integrated graphics. I think you may have looked up the wrong chip families.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@SpecTRe-X Yeah I read some more afterwards and realized I confused the two together. Apologies.

As far as I have come to understand the Ivy E is a better enthusiast chip all around. But that is based on some things I read which has led me to get the 4930k chip I am running now. I think someone on here mentioned it was the best chip to try and reach 5ghz with. Either here or on Tom's Hardware.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @SpecTRe-X Yeah I read some more afterwards and realized I confused the two together. Apologies.
> 
> As far as I have come to understand the Ivy E is a better enthusiast chip all around. But that is based on some things I read which has led me to get the 4930k chip I am running now. I think someone on here mentioned it was the best chip to try and reach 5ghz with. Either here or on Tom's Hardware.


Good luck with 5ghz, most chips will only do 4.6 to 4.8!!! The 4 core chips like the 4790k will do 5 but good luck getting a ivy-e to do that!!!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @SpecTRe-X Yeah I read some more afterwards and realized I confused the two together. Apologies.
> 
> As far as I have come to understand the Ivy E is a better enthusiast chip all around. But that is based on some things I read which has led me to get the 4930k chip I am running now. I think someone on here mentioned it was the best chip to try and reach 5ghz with. Either here or on Tom's Hardware.


No worries bud, easy enough error.

5Ghz probably isn't a likely 24/7 speed unless you're running a phase I think. Even then how much more performance are you really gaining for the average task?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> They have 16gb ecc but I think your right that nonecc is max at 8


The company Intelligent Memory sells both non ecc and ecc rated 16GB DIMM's...

They have 16GB DDR3 modules HERE

They also have 8GB DDR2 modules...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> No worries bud, easy enough error.
> 
> 5Ghz probably isn't a likely 24/7 speed unless you're running a phase I think. Even then how much more performance are you really gaining for the average task?


It's just a goal, though 5.4 ghz (+2ghz) is more what I am trying to achieve. That way I can join the +2 ghz club...lol.
It is a personal achievement.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> The company Intelligent Memory sells both non ecc and ecc rated 16GB DIMM's...
> 
> They have 16GB DDR3 modules HERE
> 
> They also have 8GB DDR2 modules...


Sweet!
I may just end up getting some 4gb modules for my Socket 775 board (only supports up to 4gb per module).

Even though he stated the latency is not that big of a deal I wonder what it is on their DIMMS.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I talked to ASUS tech support a little while ago and it seems the BIOS update fixed the problem I had with the RAM. So now the RAM is in the proper (as suggested by the set up instructions) slots of B1 and D1.

He also showed me how to get my RAM to run at its rated setting of 2133mhz just by clicking on one little option in the bios, of which I forgot what it is... But the RAM has to specifically be recognized by the bios (officially supported?). It was XMP or something like that.
I was also able to get my sound into a better state by updating to the latest drivers from their website. It sounds so much better now through my speakers and I might even say I can notice the difference between the 116db of my old system and the 120db of this system, but it probably is just my imagination. But it still only produces single channel audio to my headphones, which is annoying because it doesn't sound right. I turned the option for headphone virtualization on but it still sounds horrible. I may have to opt for either a Sound Blaster E5 (currently a whopping $199) or the Sound Blaster X-Fi MB3 software suite, which is only $30. Hmmm, I think I will probably go with the software...lol. Though this system was designed with the RealTek audio driver and it probably works better with the RealTek software.

Anyone here know of a better option to improve the sound through my headphones other than a full software suite replacement or an added gadget?

Now I am in the process of installing all the updated software from their website.

My Swiftech 240-x should arrive tomorrow..... then the real fun begins!
....and that is when I will actually need to read through the book and all the settings, which is the least fun part.......

I know it isn't that big of a deal but I did a windows experience test and I only got a 7.9, which is limited by my current GTX 750Ti video card. That will hopefully change in the next couple of months.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Check the disk that came with your mobo . It has a ROG High def audio app .

You need to play with settings on it . You don't really need a sound card for it .

But I run spidf and a HT amp on mine and the sound quality is incredible


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> So do you guys think I should just go down the route of Ivy-E from all the problems I've been having lately with my Sandy-E setup?


Get a Rive or sumthin that doesn't have a updated ivy-be bios on it . That's what is giving you grief


----------



## Dwofzz

Hello guys, I've just got my R4BE. Installed it in the system today along with a 3930k 4x4gb g.skill trident x 2400 mhz and 2x GTX 780 classified. Here is my concern though :


The areas marked in red is squashed superthight together with the backplate on the top 780 and i'm concerned about it be able to shorten itself...?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Hello guys, I've just got my R4BE. Installed it in the system today along with a 3930k 4x4gb g.skill trident x 2400 mhz and 2x GTX 780 classified. Here is my concern though :
> 
> 
> The areas marked in red is squashed super tight together with the backplate on the top 780 and *i'm concerned about it be able to shorten itself...?*


What ??
You mean elec short eh ??
Ans = No









I personally don't run Sandybee on a Ivybee board cause of the Ivybee bios


----------



## Dwofzz

Thank you for replying so quickly, that's good to hear since I really don't want to elec short anything









The sandy works fine so far just have to figure out how to get a stable overclock on this board, and the reason why I use a sandy on this board is because this sandy handles over 2600mhz ram as well as the board so well


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Thank you for replying so quickly, that's good to hear since I really don't want to elec short anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sandy works fine so far just have to figure out how to get a stable overclock on this board, and the reason why I use a sandy on this board is because this sandy handles over 2600mhz ram as well as the board so well


But does it actually hit 2600 on da ram







. Have you been there with it ?

The only Sandy that ive had that did that was a 3820 . Good Quaddie that one









http://valid.canardpc.com/tr7px4


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> But does it actually hit 2600 on da ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Have you been there with it ?
> 
> The only Sandy that ive had that did that was a 3820 . Good Quaddie that one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/tr7px4


Yes I've ben at 2666 mhz with this 3930k at the evga dark but had to use 125 bclk and my 3930k isn't a big fan of anything higher than 100 bclk


----------



## fishingfanatic

Hey HPC, I have a HT setup as well, absolutely love the clean sound and especially the surround sound and the effect it gives you.

I'm about to mod my case a bit to allow for the 2nd set of lines as I keep my pumps and reservoir outside of the case, so 4 lines, a bit of a

squeeze but it'll work just fine. Hopefully it allows for a better oc on both the cpu and gpus.









FF


----------



## Dwofzz

hmmm, my pc shuts down at any overklock.. just like if someone turned of the ac power, it dies point blank and then start back up again.. any ideas?
This only happens when overklocked and at full or moderate load... ( P.s I've had the cpu, ram, psu, case, hdd and what not together for a year but on a EVGA dark, just swapped motherboard so is the board a doa or is there a bios setting causing this? )


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Yes I've ben at 2666 mhz with this 3930k at the evga dark but had to use 125 bclk and my 3930k isn't a big fan of anything higher than 100 bclk


Good sample you have . Try higher VSCCA on 125 strap .

I have a Dom Plat 2666 kit that must have 125 strap for XMP 2666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> Hey HPC, I have a HT setup as well, absolutely love the clean sound and especially the surround sound and the effect it gives you.
> 
> I'm about to mod my case a bit to allow for the 2nd set of lines as I keep my pumps and reservoir outside of the case, so 4 lines, a bit of a
> 
> squeeze but it'll work just fine. Hopefully it allows for a better oc on both the cpu and gpus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FF


Yeah spidf and HT amp is the only way to fly .









Good luck with the loop . You should get another pump / res and run your cpu , gpu's separately . Helps with benchies









At one stage I had a loop and rad per gpu . Now I have 2 rads and a twin D5 res pump for the cards with a 1 hp chiller inline with a 4 ltr res .


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> hmmm, my pc shuts down at any overklock.. just like if someone turned of the ac power, it dies point blank and then start back up again.. any ideas?
> This only happens when overklocked and at full or moderate load... ( P.s I've had the cpu, ram, psu, case, hdd and what not together for a year but on a EVGA dark, just swapped motherboard so is the board a doa or is there a bios setting causing this? )


Hint : Fill out rig builder so we can see your specs .

Sounds like you need to get into bios and turn off surge protection OR your psu is chuckin wobblies on ya








Do you run any PSU extendtion cabling ??


----------



## Mega Man

i have only seen server ram that big ( 16gb ) , still waiting

tbh with ddr4 out i just dont think ram manufactures care

my RIVBE runs great with my 3930k, 84.8ghz 2400 ram all @ 1.424v


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have only seen server ram that big ( 16gb ) , still waiting
> 
> tbh with ddr4 out i just dont think ram manufactures care
> 
> my RIVBE runs great with my 3930k, 84.8ghz 2400 ram all @ 1.424v


You sort out Quad cards ??

1.30 pm here been up for 3 hrs im starrrrrrrrving


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Hint : Fill out rig builder so we can see your specs .
> 
> Sounds like you need to get into bios and turn off surge protection OR your psu is chuckin wobblies on ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you run any PSU extendtion cabling ??


I don't think ( I hope not ) it's the psu since it worked fine just yesterday :S
I haven't changed anything since yesterday more than this : took out the ram gpu and cpu swapped motherboard. I did put everything together exactly the way is was before just with another motherboard.. But I will take a closer look at it!

And no I dont use any PSU extension, I have pre made sleeved psu cables


----------



## Dwofzz

a


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Hint : Fill out rig builder so we can see your specs .
> 
> Sounds like you need to get into bios and turn off surge protection OR your psu is chuckin wobblies on ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you run any PSU extendtion cabling ??


You are my savior!







I think and I hope it was the surge protection, I turned it off in bios and now so far anyways I managed to do a 3DM11 run and 3 runs of cinebench 11.5 and that wasn't possible before









Thank you HOMECINEMA!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have only seen server ram that big ( 16gb ) , still waiting
> 
> tbh with ddr4 out i just dont think ram manufactures care
> 
> my RIVBE runs great with my 3930k, 84.8ghz 2400 ram all @ 1.424v
> 
> 
> 
> You sort out Quad cards ??
> 
> 1.30 pm here been up for 3 hrs im starrrrrrrrving
Click to expand...

waiting for rma part for blocks, put blocks on my 295x2 so yea still running, quad back to x16 on both cards ! ( was the mobo )


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Check the disk that came with your mobo . It has a ROG High def audio app .
> 
> You need to play with settings on it . You don't really need a sound card for it .
> 
> But I run spidf and a HT amp on mine and the sound quality is incredible


I installed the audio software on the disc and that's the RealTek HD Audio manager (it has the ROG markings on it). The sound through my speakers sound great but it sounds like crap through my headset. It is in the windows playback devices where I only have a single channel for sound where it should have an option for surround sound. I don't remember if it had the different options in my other PC but they sounded so much better than they do now.


----------



## EaglePC

$4K back in 2013 to bad ASUS discontinued the r4be since no bios or driver updates lately and I see no future for x99


----------



## ledzepp3

I suppose I'll try one of the original BIOS before I decide if it's time for an Ivy-E chip or whatever seems to be the issue


----------



## tcclaviger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EaglePC*
> 
> $4K back in 2013 to bad ASUS discontinued the r4be since no bios or driver updates lately and I see no future for x99


Clean build. So that's what a 900d looks like when it's not stuffed to the gills lol.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Hint : Fill out rig builder so we can see your specs .
> 
> Sounds like you need to get into bios and turn off surge protection OR your psu is chuckin wobblies on ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you run any PSU extendtion cabling ??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> You are my savior!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think and I hope it was the surge protection, I turned it off in bios and now so far anyways I managed to do a 3DM11 run and 3 runs of cinebench 11.5 and that wasn't possible before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you HOMECINEMA!


If it starts up again I'd check out Current Capability, which Raja said is supposed to be set higher than 100% even at stock on most chips. I wouldn't personally turn off surge protection or inertia inrush (forgot its exact name) options unless clocking under ln2, dice, etc. but that's me.


----------



## ledzepp3

I got the "Abnormal" readings to go away in the SPD memory profile, but It's still not booting properly. Again, after it loads the Windows screen with the little spinning thing, I get an 04 code, and then a shut down.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Vcore , VSCCA or up the current capability as Spectre-x suggested


----------



## EaglePC

true I just nervous on real water cooling just upgrade to a GTX 980 need to get another I sold both my GTX780s just to get the 980 geesh , starting to mod slowly this is how the system really looked back in 2013 when I seen my bank account at a - LOL


----------



## Madmaxneo

Got the water cooler today, installed it (which was a pain) and it is up and running! The first time I started it booted up fine and my CPU temps were really low, like no higher than 20 deg! So I restarted and activated the OC profile for watercoolers and it gave me some problems. It went through like 4 reboots with windows continuously stating my PC didn't start right and it was restarting. On the 5th time I went into the bios and reloaded my original profile with just the RAM boosted to its rated specs. It booted up fine but when I checked the temps they were running the same with the air cooler (24 - 28 deg). I went and checked the cpu speeds and it was reading up to 4ghz. I figure it must have kept the water cooled OC profile. Now the temps are down to the low 20's and those radiator fans are a bit louder than the stock fans. So I might be replacing those soon enough. It does look a bit more sweet inside, that is except for all the wires from the water cooler. I am going to have to get me some fan power cable extensions so I can run all those wires behind the MB.

I now need some good suggestions for walking it up to as close to, if not reaching 5ghz.
Please advise!

I should have taken a pic before I put the water cooler in it and after.... oh well I will post a pic soon enough.

Bruce


----------



## tatmMRKIV

walking what up?
theres like 15 procesors you could have, 200 mobos.. you're going to have to be more specific if you want help


----------



## Dwofzz

Hi agin guy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> hmmm, my pc shuts down at any overklock.. just like if someone turned of the ac power, it dies point blank and then start back up again.. any ideas?
> This only happens when overklocked and at full or moderate load... ( P.s I've had the cpu, ram, psu, case, hdd and what not together for a year but on a EVGA dark, just swapped motherboard so is the board a doa or is there a bios setting causing this? )


Still have this problem guys nothing helps I've tryed messing around in the bios but nothing semes to sort this out and if I run any of the 2 bios at stock settings the pc will hang after like 5 min and the only thing I can do is to cut the power... Is the board a doa?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Umm, Well I hope you already know the MB as it is the very thread we are on.........
I would like to reach 5ghz or as close as I can get with this machine, of which I have posted about before in this thread....
I have an i7 4930k and I just installed the Swiftek H240-X water cooler.
So I would like advice on walking this i7 4930k cpu up to 5ghz (I'd like to try and surpass my goal of 5 ghz, but it is hard enough to even get close to it).


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Hi agin guy
> Still have this problem guys nothing helps I've tryed messing around in the bios but nothing semes to sort this out and if I run any of the 2 bios at stock settings the pc will hang after like 5 min and the only thing I can do is to cut the power... Is the board a doa?


Have you contacted ASUS tech support on it yet? They were very helpful with me and were even ready to do an RMA when everything started working just fine.
The board has a 3 year manufacturer warranty and I believe it is only just over a year since it came out.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Have you contacted ASUS tech support on it yet? They were very helpful with me and were even ready to do an RMA when everything started working just fine.
> The board has a 3 year manufacturer warranty and I believe it is only just over a year since it came out.


I'm going to do so asap, I'm testing the system with only one stick of ram in atm and se if that helps


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Vcore , VSCCA or up the current capability as Spectre-x suggested


Did all of this, and I'm still getting code 04 once the Windows loading screen has gone away like I'm about to enter the OS.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Did all of this, and I'm still getting code 04 once the Windows loading screen has gone away like I'm about to enter the OS.


I assume then you have proven it isn't the CPU going bad, or, gone bad?

One other thing you might test is your PSU. Sometimes a faulty PSU can make all kinds of weird things happen.

Also, what are the chances you fried your RAM sticks while OCing them?

One last thing, does anyone here know what those codes from the MB mean or maybe know of a codex that gives an idea of what they mean?


----------



## Mega Man

read your manual most are in there

"q code"

you can try to google the "qcode" they are universal throughout amd/intel, for the most part,

also if you connect your pc via roglink you can find out what they are


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I now need some good suggestions for walking it up to as close to, if not reaching 5ghz.
> Please advise!
> 
> I should have taken a pic before I put the water cooler in it and after.... oh well I will post a pic soon enough.
> 
> Bruce


First, don't use the pre-set OC profiles, they're more a guideline than a sure fire OC.

Here's an IVB-E overview/guide. And here is the SB-E guide. I found the SB-E guide had more info but keep in mind that the IVB-E specs are slightly different. The second link does a very thorough job of explaining power options and explanations though. You should read both guides and understand that getting to 5ghz or higher on plain water likely isn't going to be easy or even probable.

At the very least you're going to need some really cold ambient temps and at most you're looking at LN2.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> walking what up?
> theres like 15 procesors you could have, 200 mobos.. you're going to have to be more specific if you want help


Like he said bud, previous posts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Hi agin guy
> Still have this problem guys nothing helps I've tryed messing around in the bios but nothing semes to sort this out and if I run any of the 2 bios at stock settings the pc will hang after like 5 min and the only thing I can do is to cut the power... Is the board a doa?


And you checked current capability, right (I can't recall)? It is sounding a lot like a cpu issue but I can't recall you saying you tested the cpu in a different board to rule it out. If you haven't tested the cpu like that (or tried a different one in the board) I would recommend you do that at this time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I assume then you have proven it isn't the CPU going bad, or, gone bad?
> 
> One other thing you might test is your PSU. Sometimes a faulty PSU can make all kinds of weird things happen.
> 
> Also, what are the chances you fried your RAM sticks while OCing them?
> 
> One last thing, does anyone here know what those codes from the MB mean or maybe know of a codex that gives an idea of what they mean?


Mobo manual man. Crack that sucker open and start reading, it'll answer a ton of your questions quicker than we can. Post back if you need help with any details and specifics!


----------



## dboythagr8

Ordered two Titan X's today. Will replace my Titan Black (already have a buyer). From Tri-SLI Titan Black - > Titan Black -> SLI Titan X. Been quite the ride







. I've got my ROG Swift, 4k monitor, and Dell U3011 all ready to go for testing multiple games this weekend.









I wanted to move to X99, but I am too attached to this mobo. I am not using it near it's full potential, but I just like knowing that I have the power to do so if I ever decide to go down that road. I will say that the physical PCIe switches on the motherboard have been a huge plus when troubleshooting my multiple configurations. Huge. Not having to physically take the card out is a big time saver and is now a must on any board I buy moving forward. My 4930k is sitting at 4.3ghz. May try and get that higher. Really want to move into a true WC loop. May start seriously looking into that now.


----------



## Madmaxneo

LOL.... I thought I had posted this earlier.... but I forgot to hit :Submit"!
@Mega Man: Ah yes, now I find it.....lol...
I looked earlier, for an index listing of sorts and could not find it, looked no further.
When mentioned it I decided to look deeper, and there it is. Starting on page 1-32. Interesting thing though, there are a lot of the "Reserved for future use" codes. I wonder what it means when you get one of those?.,...lol.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@SpecTRe-X Thanks, those links will be very useful. I know getting to to 5ghz is not probable but I gotta try. Who knows I might be one of those lucky ones where the CPU can actually handle it.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Indeed


----------



## tcclaviger

Dboythagr8 where did you order from I don't see them available anywhere yet.

Good post spectrx,+rep.

Seriously, give up the arbitrary 5ghz number using water cooling and an ivy bridge. Hell, there are a lot of sbe chips that won't do it under 1.45 volts, I have gone through 3 sbe so far, and only 2 would even get to 5 stable regardless of voltage.

The engineering sample C0 stepping 396px was the best of the lot oddly enough and does it at 1.512 volts, and despite many rumor mongers, yes C0 has fully functional pcie 3.0 on it.

Ivy-E is more about ram speed than raw cpu speed, that's SB-E domain, mostly.

The lines do blur depending on your sample, but if you make it to 4.7 under 1.4vcore on and IB-E, be happy you are getting 5.0 SB-E performance with less power draw.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> First, don't use the pre-set OC profiles, they're more a guideline than a sure fire OC.
> 
> Here's an IVB-E overview/guide. And here is the SB-E guide. I found the SB-E guide had more info but keep in mind that the IVB-E specs are slightly different. The second link does a very thorough job of explaining power options and explanations though. You should read both guides and understand that getting to 5ghz or higher on plain water likely isn't going to be easy or even probable.
> 
> At the very least you're going to need some really cold ambient temps and at most you're looking at LN2.
> Like he said bud, previous posts.
> And you checked current capability, right (I can't recall)? It is sounding a lot like a cpu issue but I can't recall you saying you tested the cpu in a different board to rule it out. If you haven't tested the cpu like that (or tried a different one in the board) I would recommend you do that at this time.
> Mobo manual man. Crack that sucker open and start reading, it'll answer a ton of your questions quicker than we can. Post back if you need help with any details and specifics!


I have tested my cpu in my old X79 board and i've tested this motherboard with a single stick of ram from a different set I have and with a little higher vtt and vsa along with fixed cpu clock it works fine so my conclusion is that the problem is one or more of the dimm slots on the board.. I will tear everything apart later today and reseat the cpu and remount the board in the case and se if that helps.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> Dboythagr8 where did you order from I don't see them available anywhere yet.


Ordered them directly from Nvidia.

Keep an eye out at Newegg -- seems like it may go on sale soon
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487129&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=6146846&SID=i7eqv4ku1x000kb500053


----------



## Dwofzz

I don't know guys but I changed all of the ramsticks and cleared both of the bios and now it's working like a champ at 4.6 ghz with 1866 mhz, been running Bf4 1:20:33 with no issue... Does this mean that my other set of ram is broke cus it seemes like it


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> Dboythagr8 where did you order from I don't see them available anywhere yet.
> 
> Good post spectrx,+rep.
> 
> Seriously, give up the arbitrary 5ghz number using water cooling and an ivy bridge. Hell, there are a lot of sbe chips that won't do it under 1.45 volts, I have gone through 3 sbe so far, and only 2 would even get to 5 stable regardless of voltage.
> 
> The engineering sample C0 stepping 396px was the best of the lot oddly enough and does it at 1.512 volts, and despite many rumor mongers, yes C0 has fully functional pcie 3.0 on it.
> 
> Ivy-E is more about ram speed than raw cpu speed, that's SB-E domain, mostly.
> 
> The lines do blur depending on your sample, but if you make it to 4.7 under 1.4vcore on and IB-E, be happy you are getting 5.0 SB-E performance with less power draw.


Thanks for the rep.

He's looking to get into the +2Ghz club, hence the 5/5.2 oc goal (in case you missed it earlier).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> I have tested my cpu in my old X79 board and i've tested this motherboard with a single stick of ram from a different set I have and with a little higher vtt and vsa along with fixed cpu clock it works fine so my conclusion is that the problem is one or more of the dimm slots on the board.. I will tear everything apart later today and reseat the cpu and remount the board in the case and se if that helps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> I don't know guys but I changed all of the ramsticks and cleared both of the bios and now it's working like a champ at 4.6 ghz with 1866 mhz, been running Bf4 1:20:33 with no issue... Does this mean that my other set of ram is broke cus it seemes like it


I was going to suggest checking the socket for bent pins too. Did you re-seat the cpu?

If you did it may have been that. If you didn't then it may be the ram like you suspect.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Thanks for the rep.
> 
> He's looking to get into the +2Ghz club, hence the 5/5.2 oc goal (in case you missed it earlier).
> 
> I was going to suggest checking the socket for bent pins too. Did you re-seat the cpu?
> 
> If you did it may have been that. If you didn't then it may be the ram like you suspect.


I didn't unmount the cpu, I decided to try another set of ram before I teared it apart and it's running fine with this set.. I'm thinking do i need to do something with the dram current capability to run 2400mhz with this board?


----------



## tcclaviger

Simple answer:

Set all the "current capability" options at their max setting, which for RAM I believe is 140%.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> I didn't unmount the cpu, I decided to try another set of ram before I teared it apart and it's running fine with this set.. I'm thinking do i need to do something with the dram current capability to run 2400mhz with this board?


Possibly, you'll have to wait for someone who knows more about ram settings though as that's not my forte.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> Simple answer:
> 
> Set all the "current capability" options at their max setting, which for RAM I believe is 140%.


While that may be needed in the end I don't think I'd recommend people do that right off the bat unless using parts that are known to need those settings.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Possibly, you'll have to wait for someone who knows more about ram settings though as that's not my forte.
> While that may be needed in the end I don't think I'd recommend people do that right off the bat unless using parts that are known to need those settings.


I feel so stupid.... Turns out that my cpu and mem needed more juice for what I was doing to them.. I tripped the overcurrent protection on both the cpu and mem.. hehe omg









Found this on asus Memory Overclocking Guide For Rampage IV Black Edition :

" If you find the board shuts down (no BSOD) when under load and restarts itself then navigate to the DIGI+ section of UEFI and set Current Inrush Inertia to Enabled and or set CPU Current Capability to 170%. UEFI builds over 0601 will auto patch this (to be released soon). "


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> read your manual most are in there
> 
> "q code"
> 
> you can try to google the "qcode" they are universal throughout amd/intel, for the most part,
> 
> also if you connect your pc via roglink you can find out what they are


My ROGLink got taken by Asus despite me telling them to return it with my RMA, so no luck with that. I've tried swapping out cables on the graphics cards, disabling PCI slots and checking to see if the BIOS battery was seated properly, swapped the SATA power and data cables again, making sure all connections to the mobo are solid, which they are. Still not success, I did however get all the way to the signing in screen surrounded by a blue background for W8.1.

I do have my manual, and Its the PCH Initialization code.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> I feel so stupid.... Turns out that my cpu and mem needed more juice for what I was doing to them.. I tripped the overcurrent protection on both the cpu and mem.. hehe omg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this on asus Memory Overclocking Guide For Rampage IV Black Edition :
> 
> " If you find the board shuts down (no BSOD) when under load and restarts itself then navigate to the DIGI+ section of UEFI and set Current Inrush Inertia to Enabled and or set CPU Current Capability to 170%. UEFI builds over 0601 will auto patch this (to be released soon). "


Don't feel stupid, it's a learning process. None of us woke up one day just knowing how to do it lol. Glad you found the info you needed!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> Simple answer:
> 
> Set all the "current capability" options at their max setting, which for RAM I believe is 140%.


Ha, yeah I'll just go ahead and do that now....not! That sounds dangerous for my MB. I am going to walk things up and see how they go.
Though after reading a little through the guides that were posted for me I am going to have to get another fan that blows directly onto the board, there is an adjustable angled mount for one in the phantom 820 case I have. I will need a 120mm or a 140mm fan.

Also, since installing the H240-X there are no dust filters at the top which really sucks. I need a really good material to keep the micro dust particles from getting into my machine. I need something I can custom cut and place inside of the top cover. When I took my evo 212 out of my old system to use in this one temporarily, a can of air would not do the job of cleaning off that fan as the dust seemed to stick to the fan. I had to clean it off with a rag and get every little corner and tight spot. The dust here is somewhat like a powder and really annoying.

Does anyone have any good suggestions for this?

An alternative would be to get some shorter screws to secure the radiator then replace the fans that came with the radiator with the original case fan and get a second 200mm NZXT fan. They are quieter at normal loads but would they keep the radiators just as cool? Right now the air coming off those top fans is pretty cool. But I would still need some kind of dust filters....

I'm not sure LN2 is a feasible option for this system. I don't know much about LN2 but wouldn't I need a test bench to do that?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Ha, yeah I'll just go ahead and do that now....not! That sounds dangerous for my MB. I am going to walk things up and see how they go.
> Though after reading a little through the guides that were posted for me I am going to have to get another fan that blows directly onto the board, there is an adjustable angled mount for one in the phantom 820 case I have. I will need a 120mm or a 140mm fan.
> 
> Also, since installing the H240-X there are no dust filters at the top which really sucks. I need a really good material to keep the micro dust particles from getting into my machine. I need something I can custom cut and place inside of the top cover. When I took my evo 212 out of my old system to use in this one temporarily, a can of air would not do the job of cleaning off that fan as the dust seemed to stick to the fan. I had to clean it off with a rag and get every little corner and tight spot. The dust here is somewhat like a powder and really annoying.
> 
> Does anyone have any good suggestions for this?
> 
> An alternative would be to get some shorter screws to secure the radiator then replace the fans that came with the radiator with the original case fan and get a second 200mm NZXT fan. They are quieter at normal loads but would they keep the radiators just as cool? Right now the air coming off those top fans is pretty cool. But I would still need some kind of dust filters....
> 
> I'm not sure LN2 is a feasible option for this system. I don't know much about LN2 but wouldn't I need a test bench to do that?


Test bench or just set it on top a box on a table. The important part of using LN2 is the cpu pot and insulating the board.

I'd personally mount the cooler so it blew out hot air through the top instead of pulling it into the case (unless I read it wrong). As far as material goes I use some of this. It's called Tulle, I think, and it's like a very fine fishnet. double it over a few times and you're set. That's the same stuff I used between my fan grills and rads and it works exceptionally well and is easy to vacuum out from the front. Only the absolute smallest dust gets through but there's nothing that going to stop that stuff short of a wall







.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Test bench or just set it on top a box on a table. The important part of using LN2 is the cpu pot and insulating the board.
> 
> I'd personally mount the cooler so it blew out hot air through the top instead of pulling it into the case (unless I read it wrong). As far as material goes I use some of this. It's called Tulle, I think, and it's like a very fine fishnet. double it over a few times and you're set. That's the same stuff I used between my fan grills and rads and it works exceptionally well and is easy to vacuum out from the front. Only the absolute smallest dust gets through but there's nothing that going to stop that stuff short of a wall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I just read through the oc guide and seen the part about the vrm fan my question is if on water (mobo) is this still necessary?


----------



## Dwofzz

"the board shuts down (no BSOD) when under load and restarts itself"
This happens again now.... and this time I maxed out every current capability slider and turned off every single protection for overcurrent and all other protection there is on the board, and it still does the same thing


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I just read through the oc guide and seen the part about the vrm fan my question is if on water (mobo) is this still necessary?


The take away should be to keep the vrm area cooled either by the case fans or placing a dedicated fan to cool it. The VRMs do get rather hot and while it doesn't make a noticeable difference in performance it may increase longevity.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> "the board shuts down (no BSOD) when under load and restarts itself"
> This happens again now.... and this time I maxed out every current capability slider and turned off every single protection for overcurrent and all other protection there is on the board, and it still does the same thing


Can you post your major bios settings? That would really help us help you.

If I'm not mistaken you can insert a usb drive and save screen shots of the UEFI to it then post them here.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@SpecTRe-X I'm not that much into it enough just yet to get into LN2. I can see how thinking I was pulling the air in through the top was easy to assume, but no it is still pushing air out through the top.
I like that Tulle stuff, but it seems like it won't work that well.

@wjturner78 that extra MB fan is not for the CPU (which is what the water cooler is keeping cool) it is for the actual MB chip. That does get hot and I have heard that if the MB gets to hot it can fail, sometimes catastrophically.

Another thing I just noticed while perusing some other boards on overclocking.
Should I connect power to the extra 4 pin (EATX 12V_1) at the top of the board next to the 8 pin (EATX 12V_2) power connector?
It is mentioned on another forum (for a different board) that one person uses this whenever he is OCing. It supposedly gives better power stability when OCing.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> The take away should be to keep the vrm area cooled either by the case fans or placing a dedicated fan to cool it. The VRMs do get rather hot and while it doesn't make a noticeable difference in performance it may increase longevity.
> Can you post your major bios settings? That would really help us help you.
> 
> If I'm not mistaken you can insert a usb drive and save screen shots of the UEFI to it then post them here.


Yes I can but simpler to say that everything is pushed to its max everything is at extreme i have higher volt then I know is needed and all the current capabilities are at it's max ( 180, 130, 140, 140 ) and still it doesn't work properly... But I will post some pics.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @SpecTRe-X I'm not that much into it enough just yet to get into LN2. I can see how thinking I was pulling the air in through the top was easy to assume, but no it is still pushing air out through the top.
> I like that Tulle stuff, but it seems like it won't work that well.
> 
> @wjturner78 that extra MB fan is not for the CPU (which is what the water cooler is keeping cool) it is for the actual MB chip. That does get hot and I have heard that if the MB gets to hot it can fail, sometimes catastrophically.
> 
> Another thing I just noticed while perusing some other boards on overclocking.
> Should I connect power to the extra 4 pin (EATX 12V_1) at the top of the board next to the 8 pin (EATX 12V_2) power connector?
> It is mentioned on another forum (for a different board) that one person uses this whenever he is OCing. It supposedly gives better power stability when OCing.


Like I said, you have to double it over a few times. Since it's pushing air out of the case you don't need that many layers, 6 should do (I think I have 8 for my intakes). You could always buy one of those wire mesh ones but I maintain those to be horridly restrictive and noisy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Yes I can but simpler to say that everything is pushed to its max everything is at extreme i have higher volt then I know is needed and all the current capabilities are at it's max ( 180, 130, 140, 140 ) and still it doesn't work properly... But I will post some pics.


If the voltages are too high you could be damaging your parts or they could be over-heating. That's before modulation too, which might be part of the issue.

Please also list your parts (cpu, ram, gfx card{s}, etc) and their model/kit numbers when you post up your settings.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> "the board shuts down (no BSOD) when under load and restarts itself"
> This happens again now.... and this time I maxed out every current capability slider and turned off every single protection for overcurrent and all other protection there is on the board, and it still does the same thing


Fill out rig builder so we can see your specs









Rig Pics too

*Not mind readers*


----------



## Dwofzz

GPU : 2x EVGA GTX 780 Classified (1163/6608 MHz 1.16v)
MB : Asus R4BE
CPU : 3930k ( 4.8 GHz ) 1.408 - 1.448v 1.1 VTT and 1.125VCCSA
RAM : 16 GB G.Skill Trident X 2400 Mhz 1.65v
PSU : EVGA supernova G2 1000w
Chassi : 800D
Monitors : Asus vg248qe 144Hz 1920x1080p
SSD/HDD : OS: Samsung EVO 840 250 GB | WD 2T Black
Cooling : XSPC 480 Rad, Alphacool D5 Vario with Bitspower mod kit, EK and BitsPower Fittings PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 19/13 Crystal Clear, 8 Corsair 120SpHp + 2 Corsair 140AF.

Also tested with a set of 4x4 gb 1866 Corsair Dominator GT.

I've had this system for a year now but together with a EVGA DARK X79 and everything is working fine with that board, I changed to the Asus RIVBE 2 days ago and since then nothing have been working properly for longer then 3 - 4h tops and when it was working it worked flawlessly but it isn't 24/7 stable at any settings or configuration.. I can watch movies and brows internet but as son as I push the system it will shut down eventually.

Scores and Temps :

Idle GPU : 1# 27 ~ degrees celsius / 80.6 degrees Fahrenheit
2# 25 ~ degrees celsius / 77 degrees Fahrenheit

Idle CPU : 34 ~ degrees celsius / 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit

Max Temp GPU : 1# 52 ~ degrees celsius / 116.6 degrees Fahrenheit
2# 48 ~ degrees celsius / 113 degrees Fahrenheit

Max Temp CPU : 62 ~ degrees celsius / 134.6 degrees Fahrenheit

Cinebench 11.5 : 14,06


----------



## friskiest




----------



## Dwofzz

This is the final settings with everything maxed out and it still does that thing..


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final settings with everything maxed out and it still does that thing..


Is that 4.8Ghz on a .... chip @ 1.4vc ?? That's a good chip . You will need to smash 1.5vc to attempt to go higher .

I wouldn't be surprised the IMC on that if its a Ivybee will hit 2800mhz ram speed with the right ram

Heaps more to be done there , VSCCA Fixed Freq needs to be maxed to 500mhz ,

CPU VSCCA and VTT need to be at least 1.17v each depending on level of vdroop . At least 1.2v average Max VSCCA for 2400Mhz Dram speeds .

1.25v + for Ivybee dram speed of 2666mhz + ..................

http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig/0_20

Also your o/clocking on Asus app not directly thru the bios are you ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> "the board shuts down (no BSOD) when under load and restarts itself"
> This happens again now.... and this time I maxed out every current capability slider and turned off every single protection for overcurrent and all other protection there is on the board, and it still does the same thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fill out rig builder so we can see your specs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rig Pics too
> 
> *Not mind readers*
Click to expand...

* or are we *


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Is that 4.8Ghz on a .... chip @ 1.4vc ?? That's a good chip . You will need to smash 1.5vc to attempt to go higher . I wouldn't be surprised the IMC on that if its a Ivybee will hit 2800mhz ram speed with the right ram
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig/0_20
> 
> Also your o/clocking on Asus app not directly thru the bios are you ?


It is a sandy E i got for free.. hehe








And it doe's 5 Ghz on 1.48v and 4.9 Ghz at 1.46, 4.8 Ghz at 1.4 ~ and it handles 2400 mhz ram with only 1.1 VTT and 1.1 - 1.125 VCCSA.
Aslo max speed I've tested is 5.1 Ghz at 1.509v, And no I do all my overclocking from the bios I just took the screen shots from the app to cover as mush as possible in as few pics as possible.

But nothing of this matter since I can't for my life get anything stable on this motherboard..


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Well its a sandee on a Ivybee board with ivybee bios . A few conflicts can happen . Which is why I don't run sandee on this board .


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Is that 4.8Ghz on a .... chip @ 1.4vc ?? That's a good chip . You will need to smash 1.5vc to attempt to go higher . I wouldn't be surprised the IMC on that if its a Ivybee will hit 2800mhz ram speed with the right ram
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig/0_20
> 
> Also your o/clocking on Asus app not directly thru the bios are you ?
> 
> 
> 
> It is a sandy E i got for free.. hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it doe's 5 Ghz on 1.48v and 4.9 Ghz at 1.46, 4.8 Ghz at 1.4 ~ and it handles 2400 mhz ram with only 1.1 VTT and 1.1 - 1.125 VCCSA.
> Aslo max speed I've tested is 5.1 Ghz at 1.509v, And no I do all my overclocking from the bios I just took the screen shots from the app to cover as mush as possible in as few pics as possible.
> 
> But nothing of this matter since I can't for my life get anything stable on this motherboard..
Click to expand...

sounds like mine ! almost exactly like mine but the free part ://

feel free to pass it to me !! :O ill try and get my settings t see if anything helps

to note my vrms/chipset are under water

give me a few


----------



## Dwofzz

I've done an RMA on the board to get it properly tested and in the mean time I will put my system together with the Dark again and push it to the utter limit to se if anything is broke or unstable and if it isn't well I guess I was unlucky and got a faulty board and then I'll get a new one anyways.. It isn't that much of a problem just the whole process of taking apart the water cooling system and all, that is a little meeh









But please share your settings and I will test them right away and see what happens


----------



## Dwofzz

I did a total rebuild of the system and now it's working fine ( so far ) but I'm running Corsair Dominator GT 32 GB 1866 Mhz memory instead of the 2400 Mhz G.skill. I've done some thinking and maybe it did that just because I was overshooting the Max Memory Bandwidth with that much? I dunno I changed a few other things as well, I don't know what it was and I don't know if the problem is gone.. I'm going to test it over the weekend and if the problem occurs again then I will use the RMA and if it works fine then this never happened since I don't know why it happened in the first place








Anyways I will post back to you guys later on and thanks for the help


----------



## Madmaxneo

What is a good free benchmark/stress tester? I was looking at Sisoft Sandra lite but the description says it is not designed for home users and the personal license costs $50 with 5 licenses but I only need one.....


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What is a good free benchmark/stress tester? I was looking at Sisoft Sandra lite but the description says it is not designed for home users and the personal license costs $50 with 5 licenses but I only need one.....


I always use cinebench 11.5 for quick and reliable testing.


----------



## tcclaviger

sandra is good, the free one.

In order I usually run:
Cinebench 11.5
Aidia 64 tests
Intelburntest at High 10 runs
prime95 - few hours

If it passes all that I have found it will be stable. No need to run any for 24 hrs or whatever.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Cool, thanks all so far.
I think I have used prime95 before. If it is the one that shows where your system sits in comparison with other users of the program then I have used it. I tested it on my core 2 quad Q6700 that I OCd to 3.4ghz. off an ASUS P5N-d board. I had run it for about 2 hours and all seemed fine. Except one of the test threads (4th one?) shut down every time for an unknown reason. The system was pretty stable except that if I left it on for more than 18hrs straight it would give me a BSOD and then restart just fine. I lowered the OC to just above 3.3 ghz after awhile and all was good.

The odd thing is the program stated that I was in the top 15% of higher end machines with that core 2 quad system, and that was last year...lol.

Bruce


----------



## tcclaviger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> 
> Your pictures were here.
> 
> This is the final settings with everything maxed out and it still does that thing..


You don't need to set CPU Load Line Calibration to Extreme. If your voltage is set at 1.404 and you have it set to extreme, it will be more like 1.5vcore at full load (prime95). Extreme is never required for air or water cooling, and Raja has said this many times on the ROG forums.

He has stated medium is all that is required for air or water cooling, and it is also consistent with my own experience of getting to 5.0 underwater. Extreme puts serious strain on the VRM section, I have had a MOSFET fail catastrophically using Extreme LLC on the Rampage 4 before.

CPU LLC HIGH - 0.025 to 0.05 volts higher than targeted at load
CPU LLC EXTREME - 0.05 to 0.1 volts higher than targeted at load


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> You don't need to set CPU Load Line Calibration to Extreme. If your voltage is set at 1.404 and you have it set to extreme, it will be more like 1.5vcore at full load (prime95). Extreme is never required for air or water cooling, and Raja has said this many times on the ROG forums.
> 
> He has stated medium is all that is required for air or water cooling, and it is also consistent with my own experience of getting to 5.0 underwater. Extreme puts serious strain on the VRM section, I have had a MOSFET fail catastrophically using Extreme LLC on the Rampage 4 before.
> 
> CPU LLC HIGH - 0.025 to 0.05 volts higher than targeted at load
> CPU LLC EXTREME - 0.05 to 0.1 volts higher than targeted at load


Oh, you use submersion liquid cooling. I have heard about it and submersion liquid cooling was one of the first things I thought of trying when I first started thinking about OCing. But the prices and mess were something that scared me away. Recently I have heard that it can be cheaper than using radiators. Is there a growing community in this area and possibly some actual products I can purchase?
What do you recommend if I was to think about this for my R4BE?

Bruce


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> You don't need to set CPU Load Line Calibration to Extreme. If your voltage is set at 1.404 and you have it set to extreme, it will be more like 1.5vcore at full load (prime95). Extreme is never required for air or water cooling, and Raja has said this many times on the ROG forums.
> 
> He has stated medium is all that is required for air or water cooling, and it is also consistent with my own experience of getting to 5.0 underwater. Extreme puts serious strain on the VRM section, I have had a MOSFET fail catastrophically using Extreme LLC on the Rampage 4 before.
> 
> CPU LLC HIGH - 0.025 to 0.05 volts higher than targeted at load
> CPU LLC EXTREME - 0.05 to 0.1 volts higher than targeted at load


It was just for testing since the board didn't work at any setings and no the max load volt was 1.44v at that point with extreme since I did set it to 1.38v in bios.

I'm running 1.35v in bios with medion LLC and that gives me 1.356 - 1.372 in idel and 1.336 - 1.344 at load at 4.6 Ghz for 24/7.

Also Cpu current Capability at 160 % ( if it's lower the board will shutdown )
Cpu power Phase at Extreme ( can't change it if you use over 140 % Cpu cc )
And Cpu power duty at Extreme.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oh, you use submersion liquid cooling. I have heard about it and submersion liquid cooling was one of the first things I thought of trying when I first started thinking about OCing. But the prices and mess were something that scared me away. Recently I have heard that it can be cheaper than using radiators. Is there a growing community in this area and possibly some actual products I can purchase?
> What do you recommend if I was to think about this for my R4BE?
> 
> Bruce


No, not submersion, he likely has a VRM waterblock set. Submersion can be cheaper than a custom loop but it's cheaper because it's less efficient. The submersion systems that work the best cost a lot of money and have to be kept in pressure sealed tanks with inter-coolers to re-condense the coolant vapor.

If you want to watercool your VRM/PCH you want something like these:

EK Dual set
XSPC dual set
Bitspower monoblock
EK monoblock


----------



## ledzepp3

Well now they're recommending that I RMA my _third_ Rampage IV Black. ASUS, WHAT THE HELL??


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Well now they're recommending that I RMA my _third_ Rampage IV Black. ASUS, WHAT THE HELL??


They originally said the same thing to me but I was persistent to keep going until I got it working, which I did. I was blessed, either that or I just missed something that somehow corrected itself. More likely the later...lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> No, not submersion, he likely has a VRM waterblock set. Submersion can be cheaper than a custom loop but it's cheaper because it's less efficient. The submersion systems that work the best cost a lot of money and have to be kept in pressure sealed tanks with inter-coolers to re-condense the coolant vapor.
> 
> If you want to watercool your VRM/PCH you want something like these:
> 
> EK Dual set
> XSPC dual set
> Bitspower monoblock
> EK monoblock


Ohhhh, those would look so sweet!
I wonder, would those work with the radiator I currently have? It is a Swiftech H240-X. It is an adaptable liquid cooling system where I can add more water blocks to it.
I know, I know, I just realized I had spelled Swiftech with a "k" earlier.....


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

G'Day Mates 

I'm a owner of a ASUS ROG RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION Motherboard as I hope is apparent in my newly build gaming computer and it's configuration as the images below shows. I don't know if that is sufficient in the way to be a member of the ASUS ROG RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION club in here.

Sorry for the low quality of the picture on "WOLF's ASUS ROG 900D High Performance Gaming Computer"

Regards, WOLF


----------



## Madmaxneo

Nice looking build WOLF and welcome to the club!
I particularly like the way you mounted the OC panel.

I take it OCing is your next step, good luck!

What do you hope to hit with that rig?

Bruce


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

Hi MadMaxNeo.

Thank you very much for your admiration of my rig.

Since I'm a former computer technician as well as in my early retirement I got lots of time to dig deep in to my interests Computer Hardware Technology and by that building my own rigs. I also play a lot of computer games when I got the feelings for that. Unfortunately, I must admit that I am not an overclocking enthusiast, but who knows what the future has in store.

Sorry about the picture on my rig as got turned in the wrong direction as I look hard to adjust it but could not find any way to do it. Hope the OverClock Moderator can help to sort it out.

Take good care of you now my friend and we might get in touch further on.

Best Regards, WOLF.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Ohhhh, those would look so sweet!
> I wonder, would those work with the radiator I currently have? It is a Swiftech H240-X. It is an adaptable liquid cooling system where I can add more water blocks to it.
> I know, I know, I just realized I had spelled Swiftech with a "k" earlier.....


I'm sure they would, the question is how capably is that system going to handle the extra heat load.

I couldn't find any specs on the pump's flow rate or head pressure, so how much headroom you have there is hard to say. The rad itself does have a lower fin count, however, which basically means that it was made to run with little noise but not necessarily dissipate heat on the scale of something like a black ice gtx 280 (which has 50% more fins per inch and is twice as thick). So while the 240x runs quietly, you won't really see much performance gains by switching to more powerful fans (from what I know).

All things considered, I'm not sure it could handle load temps while cooling the cpu, vrm, and pch in an "as is" configuration. If you do decide to expand your system to include the mobo blocks I'd seriously look into adding another 120/140 rad. If noise isn't an issue I'd suggest something along the lines of a black ice gtx rad with a decent ~100 cfm either controlled by pwm or by fan controller. I personally use 120mm koolance fans on mine but have also had good experiences with the Aerocool "xtreme turbine" & "shark" series in 120mm formats and the Phanteks ph-f140sp fans on a friend's build (140mm format).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=TWP=WOLF*
> 
> Sorry about the picture on my rig as got turned in the wrong direction as I look hard to adjust it but could not find any way to do it. Hope the OverClock Moderator can help to sort it out.


You'd have to re-upload the image rotated the right way as far as I know.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@SpecTRe-X The radiator I have has a 90cfm. I am not sure about the head pressure but it is supposedly capable of handling up to 4 more cooling blocks. I will get in touch with support for the H240-X tomorrow. Time for bed now.


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I'm sure they would, the question is how capably is that system going to handle the extra heat load.
> 
> I couldn't find any specs on the pump's flow rate or head pressure, so how much headroom you have there is hard to say. The rad itself does have a lower fin count, however, which basically means that it was made to run with little noise but not necessarily dissipate heat on the scale of something like a black ice gtx 280 (which has 50% more fins per inch and is twice as thick). So while the 240x runs quietly, you won't really see much performance gains by switching to more powerful fans (from what I know).
> 
> All things considered, I'm not sure it could handle load temps while cooling the cpu, vrm, and pch in an "as is" configuration. If you do decide to expand your system to include the mobo blocks I'd seriously look into adding another 120/140 rad. If noise isn't an issue I'd suggest something along the lines of a black ice gtx rad with a decent ~100 cfm either controlled by pwm or by fan controller. I personally use 120mm koolance fans on mine but have also had good experiences with the Aerocool "xtreme turbine" & "shark" series in 120mm formats and the Phanteks ph-f140sp fans on a friend's build (140mm format).
> You'd have to re-upload the image rotated the right way as far as I know.


Yes Mate! Thanks to our friend Unicr0nhunter's valuable help I got it right.










Regards, WOLF


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I'm sure they would, the question is how capably is that system going to handle the extra heat load.
> 
> I couldn't find any specs on the pump's flow rate or head pressure, so how much headroom you have there is hard to say. The rad itself does have a lower fin count, however, which basically means that it was made to run with little noise but not necessarily dissipate heat on the scale of something like a black ice gtx 280 (which has 50% more fins per inch and is twice as thick). So while the 240x runs quietly, you won't really see much performance gains by switching to more powerful fans (from what I know).
> 
> All things considered, I'm not sure it could handle load temps while cooling the cpu, vrm, and pch in an "as is" configuration. If you do decide to expand your system to include the mobo blocks I'd seriously look into adding another 120/140 rad. If noise isn't an issue I'd suggest something along the lines of a black ice gtx rad with a decent ~100 cfm either controlled by pwm or by fan controller. I personally use 120mm koolance fans on mine but have also had good experiences with the Aerocool "xtreme turbine" & "shark" series in 120mm formats and the Phanteks ph-f140sp fans on a friend's build (140mm format).


This what I got back from Swiftech: They stated they have done complete testing on the pump I have because it's basically an MCP50X that runs at 3000 RPM max rather than the 4500 RPM of the 50X. Here is the link to the MCP50X: http://www.swiftech.com/MCP50X.aspx#tab2
BTW I have a MCP30 pump in my setup.

Bruce


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @SpecTRe-X The radiator I have has a 90cfm. I am not sure about the head pressure but it is supposedly capable of handling up to 4 more cooling blocks. I will get in touch with support for the H240-X tomorrow. Time for bed now.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> This what I got back from Swiftech: They stated they have done complete testing on the pump I have because it's basically an MCP50X that runs at 3000 RPM max rather than the 4500 RPM of the 50X. Here is the link to the MCP50X: http://www.swiftech.com/MCP50X.aspx#tab2
> BTW I have a MCP30 pump in my setup.
> 
> Bruce


The thing is, it isn't just about cfm. Higher cfm only helps to a certain point with low fin density rads. Past a certain point you don't gain any performance from increased cfm without also increasing the surface area (fin density). Once you reach that point your only real option is to add another radiator.

While the mcp30 may just be a lower rpm version of the mcp50x that doesn't really give any information in terms of head pressure ratios or flow rate ratios between the two pumps (no way to figure how the performance scales without tests).

Like I said before; I'm sure that the 240x can be expanded to include the rivbe mobo blocks. It's just a question of if it can dissipate that much heat (and what your new load temps will be).


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> The thing is, it isn't just about cfm. Higher cfm only helps to a certain point with low fin density rads. Past a certain point you don't gain any performance from increased cfm without also increasing the surface area (fin density). Once you reach that point your only real option is to add another radiator.
> 
> While the mcp30 may just be a lower rpm version of the mcp50x that doesn't really give any information in terms of head pressure ratios or flow rate ratios between the two pumps (no way to figure how the performance scales without tests).
> 
> Like I said before; I'm sure that the 240x can be expanded to include the rivbe mobo blocks. It's just a question of if it can dissipate that much heat (and what your new load temps will be).


Mobo will add very little heat to the circuit. So that is not the problem, i would be more worried about enough flow . If it is just CPU and mobo then you will be alright i think!!!!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Mobo will add very little heat to the circuit. So that is not the problem, i would be more worried about enough flow . If it is just CPU and mobo then you will be alright i think!!!!


Remember that the VRM would be cooled in this instance too, not just the pch. The Rivbe VRMs throw off a good deal of heat from what I've seen


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> The thing is, it isn't just about cfm. Higher cfm only helps to a certain point with low fin density rads. Past a certain point you don't gain any performance from increased cfm without also increasing the surface area (fin density). Once you reach that point your only real option is to add another radiator.
> 
> While the mcp30 may just be a lower rpm version of the mcp50x that doesn't really give any information in terms of head pressure ratios or flow rate ratios between the two pumps (no way to figure how the performance scales without tests).
> 
> Like I said before; I'm sure that the 240x can be expanded to include the rivbe mobo blocks. It's just a question of if it can dissipate that much heat (and what your new load temps will be).


I believe I understand you. I mentioned the water block and gave the link to one of the water blocks (the Bitspower one) to Swiftech support and he said the H240-x should be able to more than handle that block.

Right now though the inside of my machine looks really cool with the current block LED, the ROG LED's, and the cases LED's lit up. Once I put some tubing on the fan wires from the radiator I will post some pics.

One question regarding water blocks, what is the average on how often to refill them?

Bruce


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I believe I understand you. I mentioned the water block and gave the link to one of the water blocks (the Bitspower one) to Swiftech support and he said the H240-x should be able to more than handle that block.
> 
> One question regarding water blocks, what is the average on how often to refill them?
> 
> Bruce


It's not even about the blocks themselves really, its about the *added heat*.

Once you get the system put together you just fill it once (though degassing the loop is often needed). How long you leave it together will determine how often it has to be drained and refilled or topped off. The longest I've gone without refilling was more than a year; I had to refill it when I updated my hardware/loop. The shortest was 3 minutes when I decided to rearrange the loop order.


----------



## tcclaviger

Motherboard block - CPU/VRM/Chipset all in one block.

Chipset block - Chipset only.

VRM block - Just VRMs obviously.

Need to be more specific because the VRM section certainly does add a meaningful amount of heat when the CPU is heavily overclocked on these boards.

That said, a single 240 with an MCP30 should be fine cooling CPU/VRM/X79 with moderate fan speed if set up as push/pull.

Also, there are plenty of tests around of the MCP50X. At 3000 RPM it will flow close to 1GPM, +/- 0.2 GPM, depending on the restriction of the loop. It has a ton of head pressure, more than any other single pump on the market until you move to Iwakis high pressure version pump. My MCP50X had no problems with my last build which was 3x240 rads, GPU block, CPU block, Motherboard block, and flowed about 0.95 GPM at 3150 RPM.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Mobo will add very little heat to the circuit. So that is not the problem, i would be more worried about enough flow . If it is just CPU and mobo then you will be alright i think!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that the VRM would be cooled in this instance too, not just the pch. The Rivbe VRMs throw off a good deal of heat from what I've seen
Click to expand...

still not enough to warrant another rad


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> Need to be more specific......
> 
> That said, a single 240 with an MCP30 should be fine cooling CPU/VRM/X79 with moderate fan speed if set up as push/pull.
> 
> It has a ton of head pressure, more than any other single pump on the market until you move to Iwakis high pressure version pump.


All the blocks/sets I linked had VRM blocks/sections and I referenced the vrm being watercooled several times.

The 240x can't run a push/pull config on both fans because of its construction.

The mcp50x has 15' @ 12vdc which is less than a pmp-500's 24.6' @ 12vdc. The 50x may be better known but it isn't the monster you make it out to be.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> still not enough to warrant another rad


Like I said, I'm not so sure. At worst, if he doesn't like the new temps he could always add one in after the fact. If he adds a second rad with the block he may just end up with more headroom later on.

Is his system going to meltdown after adding a pch/vrm block set but not a second rad? No, but more cooling capacity is always nice to have on hand in my opinion. My rig should exemplify that perfectly


----------



## tcclaviger

I agree about more rad is good. I didnt know the PMP-500 even existed lol, interesting claims by koolance on pressure and flow, how is the sound from the 500?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> I agree about more rad is good. I didnt know the PMP-500 even existed lol, interesting claims by koolance on pressure and flow, how is the sound from the 500?


Guys who have tried them found them obnoxiously loud, hence why you don't see them used very much by experienced builders.

If it had been designed with PWM speed control, it would have been a lot better.

Darlene


----------



## Madmaxneo

I didn't realize there was so much involved with a water cooling system. It is interesting and appealing. I need to keep from adding more stuff to my list of wants until I get to actually OC and run some stress tests.
For now I am thinking of replacing one of the H240-X fans with the original case fan and filter (there would be still one radiator fan at the top also), then using the replaced radiator fan in the adjustable angled slot to add some cooling to the MB. I just have to get around to it.

I have a question regarding a windows recommended chipset driver warning that I got through my windows update. This pop up driver update warning said I was missing a driver for my chipset and it recommended I download and install this set of driver from the Asustek website, I clicked ok and it downloaded the driver from the Asustek website. The name of the unzipped file is "Intel C600 MEI NULL HECI" but when I tried to install it I got the error message stating my system did not meet the minimum requirements for these drivers. Here is the first part of the read me file:

************************************************************
* Product: Intel(R) Chipset Device Software
* Release: Production Version
* Version: 9.4.0.1005
* Target: Intel(R) Xeon(R) Processor E5 Product Family/Core i7
* Intel(R) C200/C600/X79 series chipset
* Date: May 14 2012
************************************************************

Has anyone else encountered this "driver update" recommendation?
If so did you have any problems installing it?

Bruce


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> I agree about more rad is good. I didnt know the PMP-500 even existed lol, interesting claims by koolance on pressure and flow, how is the sound from the 500?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Guys who have tried them found them obnoxiously loud, hence why you don't see them used very much by experienced builders.
> 
> If it had been designed with PWM speed control, it would have been a lot better.
> 
> Darlene


Their site says around 50dBA. They _are_ rather noticeable but I think it's not so much the volume as it it the pitch/tone of the noise; which is somewhat high.

I would definitely agree that if you're looking for a quieter build then 500s likely aren't for you. I wouldn't personally fault them for being as loud as they are considering what they deliver. I am, however, running two myself so perhaps I'm somewhat biased.









EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I didn't realize there was so much involved with a water cooling system. It is interesting and appealing. I need to keep from adding more stuff to my list of wants until I get to actually OC and run some stress tests.
> For now I am thinking of replacing one of the H240-X fans with the original case fan and filter (there would be still one radiator fan at the top also), then using the replaced radiator fan in the adjustable angled slot to add some cooling to the MB. I just have to get around to it.
> 
> I have a question regarding a windows recommended chipset driver warning that I got through my windows update. This pop up driver update warning said I was missing a driver for my chipset and it recommended I download and install this set of driver from the Asustek website, I clicked ok and it downloaded the driver from the Asustek website. The name of the unzipped file is "Intel C600 MEI NULL HECI" but when I tried to install it I got the error message stating my system did not meet the minimum requirements for these drivers. Here is the first part of the read me file:
> 
> ************************************************************
> * Product: Intel(R) Chipset Device Software
> * Release: Production Version
> * Version: 9.4.0.1005
> * Target: Intel(R) Xeon(R) Processor E5 Product Family/Core i7
> * Intel(R) C200/C600/X79 series chipset
> * Date: May 14 2012
> ************************************************************
> 
> Has anyone else encountered this "driver update" recommendation?
> If so did you have any problems installing it?
> 
> Bruce


I recall installing something by that name, or similar, but nothing with that exact version number displays in my control panel installed programs list.

I'll take a look at the asus site and see what I find.

EDIT 2: According to this it's a false flag from windows.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Question

I recently added a third EVGA GTX 680+ 4GB GPU and of course, want to run it through 3D Mark to see what scores I can push them to. I have a "basic" overclock of 43. For whatever reason, before 3D Mark begins, I lose all visuals and the only way to get the computer fully functional is a hard reset. Anyone have any ideas as to why? Is my overclock to soft? I have the cards a stock speeds, no OC on them, as of yet.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Question
> 
> I recently added a third EVGA GTX 680+ 4GB GPU and of course, want to run it through 3D Mark to see what scores I can push them to. I have a "basic" overclock of 43. For whatever reason, before 3D Mark begins, I lose all visuals and the only way to get the computer fully functional is a hard reset. Anyone have any ideas as to why? Is my overclock to soft? I have the cards a stock speeds, no OC on them, as of yet.


I currently don't know much about using more than one GPU, but your not the only one who has had problems when using a third GPU. There may be a problem with the board controlling 3 cards at once or something else. I wonder if it could have something to do with using all the PCIe lanes when there may be other devices trying to use them at the same time. Just a thought.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I currently don't know much about using more than one GPU, but your not the only one who has had problems when using a third GPU. There may be a problem with the board controlling 3 cards at once or something else. I wonder if it could have something to do with using all the PCIe lanes when there may be other devices trying to use them at the same time. Just a thought.


Very good thought. I did have a sound card in the fourth PCIe slot but have since removed and disabled it for on board audio.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> EDIT:
> I recall installing something by that name, or similar, but nothing with that exact version number displays in my control panel installed programs list.
> 
> I'll take a look at the asus site and see what I find.
> 
> EDIT 2: According to this it's a false flag from windows.


Thanks!

That is weird. It seems ASUS has a good standing with windows 8+ so something like this is kind of out of place.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Very good thought. I did have a sound card in the fourth PCIe slot but have since removed and disabled it for on board audio.


The onboard sound on the RIVBE is excellent. I have a SOund Blaster Zx card and I honestly think the MB sounds better than the Zx card. But the software is another story. The Realtek software is lacking when compared to the Sound Blaster suite that came with the card. But it is very functional and sounds better so there are trade offs.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I currently don't know much about using more than one GPU, but your not the only one who has had problems when using a third GPU. There may be a problem with the board controlling 3 cards at once or something else. I wonder if it could have something to do with using all the PCIe lanes when there may be other devices trying to use them at the same time. Just a thought.


Will I have anissue using a second gpu in this slot


I


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Will I have anissue using a second gpu in this slot
> 
> 
> I


Should put it in the one that the book tells you to!!!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Should put it in the one that the book tells you to!!!


well don't I feel like a dumbass.... read the book and where I want it is where it's supposed to be. ... sorry


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> well don't I feel like a dumbass.... read the book and where I want it is where it's supposed to be. ... sorry


Sorry cod not remember and i am on phone so easier to just tell you to read book than tey to explain on phone!!!


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The onboard sound on the RIVBE is excellent. I have a SOund Blaster Zx card and I honestly think the MB sounds better than the Zx card. But the software is another story. The Realtek software is lacking when compared to the Sound Blaster suite that came with the card. But it is very functional and sounds better so there are trade offs.


i will be further testing it later tonight as I'd like to go back to using my ZX sound card as well.

On the other issue, I may have figured out my tri sli issue. I enabled the fourth slot and left it empty and also switched out my sli bridge. Was able to run 3D mark fire strike. I will switch back to the EVGA bridge and attempt again. Will post results afterwards if successful or not.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> That is weird. It seems ASUS has a good standing with windows 8+ so something like this is kind of out of place.


The post I linked mentioned something about one or two of the included drivers being older. Perhaps that's why you got the flag. At any rate it wouldn't be the first time windows wanted to install something that didn't belong/fit/or wasn't needed. lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> well don't I feel like a dumbass.... read the book and where I want it is where it's supposed to be. ... sorry


Reading the manual is a good habit to get into. As long as you learn from your experience there's no need to be sorry here!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> i will be further testing it later tonight as I'd like to go back to using my ZX sound card as well.
> 
> On the other issue, I may have figured out my tri sli issue. I enabled the fourth slot and left it empty and also switched out my sli bridge. Was able to run 3D mark fire strike. I will switch back to the EVGA bridge and attempt again. Will post results afterwards if successful or not.


Its a good rule of thumb to switch the sli bridge as little as possible as they don't handle wear & tear very well in my experience. I'd try switching the 4th slot off again with the new sli bridge first.

EDIT: Make sure you also have the molex connector at the bottom of the board plugged in as it's needed for 3 and 4 way sli. The lanes shouldn't be an issue as long as the board has enough power. In theory you could fill every pci slot on the board and all the cards should run fine.


----------



## dboythagr8

I ran tri sli titan blacks on this board with no issue. The extra Molex adapter should be used to provide extra power. I had some issues with my EVGA Pro SLI bridge. I ended up getting an official bridge from Nvidia and things got a lot better.


----------



## dboythagr8

I've got my 4930k up to 4.5ghz on 1.4v (manual).

This about right or too high on voltage?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I've got my 4930k up to 4.5ghz on 1.4v (manual).
> 
> This about right or too high on voltage?


That is about right. I was able to get 4.6 @ 1.35 i think it was using a 4960x. Try going down on voltage!!! Might can get it lower


----------



## Shaolin7

Hi guys, my Rampage Black Edition is en route, but I wanted to ask -- do you all just stick with the onboard sound, or is it worth it to get a proper soundcard? I was looking at the Creative Soundblaster Z, but I'm not sure I can justify the upgrade if the sound quality difference isn't that high? What do you guys think?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Hi guys, my Rampage Black Edition is en route, but I wanted to ask -- do you all just stick with the onboard sound, or is it worth it to get a proper soundcard? I was looking at the Creative Soundblaster Z, but I'm not sure I can justify the upgrade if the sound quality difference isn't that high? What do you guys think?


Funny you should ask this.

I think the onboard is just ok,. Yesterday I went and bought an AudioEngine D3 DAC and I can tell you man, this thing is sweet. Big difference to my ears.

One thing to note is with headphone amps, like the one on the Black, you'll get a bass thump/pop when turning on and off your PC. It's normal.


----------



## Metatr0n

I had a Creative SoundBlaster X-Fi XtremeMusic before but when I switched to the R4BE I had to give it to my wife since it's a PCI-card, not PCIe.
The sound of the XtremeMusic was definitely better than the one of the R4BE but it depends on what kind of "audio-standard" you have. I'm driving an Onkyo AV-Receiver with a 5.1 home theater system that gets the input from my computer via digital coax. (ASUS Digital I/O-Panel connected to the R4BE S/PDIF header) If you're an audiophile you should get a dedicated solution for your sound, if you're used to low- / medium-quality headphones or 2.0 speakers, it will definitely be sufficient.

I'm pretty much missing my XtremeMusic, I'm thinking about getting a new soundcard, too.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Hi guys, my Rampage Black Edition is en route, but I wanted to ask -- do you all just stick with the onboard sound, or is it worth it to get a proper soundcard? I was looking at the Creative Soundblaster Z, but I'm not sure I can justify the upgrade if the sound quality difference isn't that high? What do you guys think?


I have a sound blaster Zx in my old system and it is a great sound card.The ZX has a 116 dB SNR and the RIVBE has a 120dB SNR. I do think the MB sounds better with my z906 5.1 surround speaker system but the RealTek software is a little weak compared to the Zx software suite. There are trade offs and the big one for me is headphone support, which does not work as good through the MB as it does the Zx card. In the Zx suite it is easier to switch to headphones though I have to turn off the "What U Hear" option unless I also want to hear it through my front speakers. To switch to headphones (or even quadraphonic sound instead of surround) I have to go to playback devices and switch everything in there. Btw my headphones are always connected, I just have to switch them on. I am thinking of using my Zx card with my RIVBE but it isn't that important.


----------



## Madmaxneo

BTW, I am also somewhat an audiophile which is why the db SNR is important to me. I use optical cables to connect everything to my z906s (TV and PC). Though a lot of people tend to not like the pop/crack that you get sometimes when starting or shutting down due to the way optical works. I do honestly think the MB sound is more than adequate but that is with the basic sound settings. Anything more is due to software enhancements than anything to do with hardware. My Sound Blaster software did have the ability to play in many different Dolby formats whilst the RealTek software is limited to just DTS interactive. In the future I may go ahead and purchase a higher quality sound card with better components than what is on this MB, but not for some time.

Right now I am dreaming about the TitanX Hydro copper......

Bruce


----------



## fishingfanatic

Yup, already got everything together, I just have to mod the case to take the extra lines. There are 3 holes in the back, I'm just going to remove the spots in between the holes.

That should give me plenty of room.









No rads or fans, just my 1/3hp chiller and my res.

Oh, and the new chiller just up and died after a week!!!









Using the old one, 1/4 hp for now.

Finished modding, gpu @ 7 C in idle, cpu 9.

I got 4.7 with 1.4 v on my rivbe. Try 4.6 @ 1.35-1.36. Worked on all 4 of my X79 boards.

If you're not adjusting the turbo or offsetting the vccsa, check out the 4930k overclocking help on this site.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1426258/overclocking-i7-4930k-help

There are a lot of helpful tips there.

FF


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> BTW, I am also somewhat an audiophile which is why the db SNR is important to me. I use optical cables to connect everything to my z906s (TV and PC). Though a lot of people tend to not like the pop/crack that you get sometimes when starting or shutting down due to the way optical works.


Would think the pop would concern how the amplifier works and not the connection type. My xonar essence stx has a on/off gate relay and so does the amp built into my blue sky 2.1 set. When Windows loads or shuts down the sound card clicks and that's it. Would be the same with optical.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Hi guys, my Rampage Black Edition is en route, but I wanted to ask -- do you all just stick with the onboard sound, or is it worth it to get a proper soundcard? I was looking at the Creative Soundblaster Z, but I'm not sure I can justify the upgrade if the sound quality difference isn't that high? What do you guys think?


I would imagine it comes down more to what the audio hardware is driving. Are you using a high end surround system or really expensive headphones? If you are I'd probably opt for a really good sound card to compliment them. If you're using a 2 or 2.1 system then a sound card might not really be noticed.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Would think the pop would concern how the amplifier works and not the connection type. My xonar essence stx has a on/off gate relay and so does the amp built into my blue sky 2.1 set. When Windows loads or shuts down the sound card clicks and that's it. Would be the same with optical.


Not exactly. Someone else mentioned the pop when only using optical cables when I was thinking about purchasing the z906. I at first thought it must be their system but after purchasing them, connecting via optical cables, and hearing the pop I remembered the last time I used an optical cable. Way back in 2005 when I purchased my Dell Inspiron 9200 I bought a PCMCIA card that had an optical port so I could get better sound through my home stereo (via optical cable) and there was that same pop/crack.

I only get that pop/crack when turning on the z906 (but not off that I can tell). I don't hear that sound when I have either the 5.1 cables or any of the other connections that the z906 can use (though I am not sure about the coax connection type) and I don't hear it when shutting down or starting the PC (windows 8.1).

Bruce


----------



## Shaolin7

Thank you very much for the thoughtful responses, guys! I'll go hunt around for good deals on separate sound solutions, but at times the selection where I am in pretty poor so I'll likely end up having to order from elsewhere. I have some decent headphones, but I'm not in sound production nor am I a super high end audiophile -- some of you guys must be rocking pretty heavy systems from what I gather







.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Thank you very much for the thoughtful responses, guys! I'll go hunt around for good deals on separate sound solutions, but at times the selection where I am in pretty poor so I'll likely end up having to order from elsewhere. I have some decent headphones, but I'm not in sound production nor am I a super high end audiophile -- some of you guys must be rocking pretty heavy systems from what I gather
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


post some pics of your rig.... it's always nice to see another primo build....


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> You don't need to set CPU Load Line Calibration to Extreme. If your voltage is set at 1.404 and you have it set to extreme, it will be more like 1.5vcore at full load (prime95). *Extreme is never required for air or water cooling, and Raja has said* this many times on the ROG forums.
> 
> He has stated medium is all that is required for air or water cooling, and it is also consistent with my own experience of getting to 5.0 underwater. Extreme puts serious strain on the VRM section, I have had a MOSFET fail catastrophically using Extreme LLC on the Rampage 4 before.
> 
> CPU LLC HIGH - 0.025 to 0.05 volts higher than targeted at load
> CPU LLC EXTREME - 0.05 to 0.1 volts higher than targeted at load


You need extreme LLC ( benchmarking etc ) if your running sandbee at 5ghz plus


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Thank you very much for the thoughtful responses, guys! I'll go hunt around for good deals on separate sound solutions, but at times the selection where I am in pretty poor so I'll likely end up having to order from elsewhere. I have some decent headphones, but I'm not in sound production nor am I a super high end audiophile -- some of you guys must be rocking pretty heavy systems from what I gather
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


If your not into sound production or much of an audiophile then you don't need a sound card. The onboard sound is great as is. If your only using MP3's then you probably will not be able to tell the difference except that with a higher end card there is a chance you might hear the MP3 distortions easier. Another thing is if your not using high quality sound files with high bit rates then you will not be able to tell the difference in sound quality with better sound cards. But if your like me and tend to get set on something even if you don't need it, then by all means get a badass sound card. I have been eyeing the Sound Blaster ZxR. It has a 124 dB SNR and you can swap the op amps out... But it currently costs $230.

Speaking of which, anyone know of a comparable sound card with optical out but costs less?

Bruce


----------



## electro2u

The essence stx is 124db and has to TOSlink 5.. Also switchable Opamps.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The essence stx is 124db and has to TOSlink 5.. Also switchable Opamps.


That's not a bad price at $180 for that card. It seems to have all the same functions. I'll have to look into that more. Thanks!


----------



## tcclaviger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> You need extreme LLC ( benchmarking etc ) if your running sandbee at 5ghz plus


Nope.

5ghz all day with offset voltage of 0.15, LLC High, VRM Freq 1000, 180% current limit.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> Nope.
> 
> 5ghz all day with offset voltage of 0.15, LLC High, VRM Freq 1000, 180% current limit.


Yes
125 strap
Ultra / Xtreme
Every sample is different

But I benched all of my sandybee Hexas @ 5.2ghz +

Cept for 3960x ........


----------



## tcclaviger

Nope.

Increase voltage setting, decrease LLC. Proven time and again. With Raja and Hivizman both stating that is the case, and my own experience with the 2011 platform, I will stand by it is not necessary unless shooting for world record speeds (not benchmark scores, raw speeds) under LN2 at extreme voltages.

To take it a step further.

Extreme LLC causes very high voltage spikes during transient loads, massively overshooting target voltage, then the following swing downwards in vcore can lead to an instability issue. Usually this is avoided because "Extreme" causes so much extra applied that it compensates for the low swing with raw high voltage. The result is that you have to apply more voltage to the chip than it really requires for stability in many cases.

The same full load core voltages are achievable with less transient swing/spike by increasing target voltage and decreaseing LLC to high or medium.

You may have used extreme, but you did not need to do so unless its the specific use case above.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Been there and done that mate .








My methods suit individual samples at time of benching ( when I was benchmarking ) . I did what I needed to get it to finish the bench and move on to the next one and or sample .









So Yes


----------



## tcclaviger

Sloppy


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> Sloppy


Arrogant


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> Sloppy


That's really unneeded comentary I'd say. You have no way to know that that particular chip could have been stabilized any other way so you really can't judge how sloppy or "pro" that specific clock/bench session was.

Moving on; have any of you used a slightly elevated vccsa to stabilize mixed ram kits? I had another 6F QCode crash after a long run of stability and decided to add a .02 positive VCCSA offset hoping that will stabilize my ram. Just curious if anyone has had luck with that measure while I wait to find out the hard way (could literally take ages lol).


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> That's really unneeded comentary I'd say. You have no way to know that that particular chip could have been stabilized any other way so you really can't judge how sloppy or "pro" that specific clock/bench session was.
> 
> Well said.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Rather insulting , and starting to quote Raja the troll to me but hey ,

been there and done that

and still

YES


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Moving on; have any of you used a slightly elevated vccsa to stabilize mixed ram kits? I had another 6F QCode crash after a long run of stability and decided to add a .02 positive VCCSA offset hoping that will stabilize my ram. Just curious if anyone has had luck with that measure while I wait to find out the hard way (could literally take ages lol).


Yes, a combination of Vccsa and ram voltage. I ran 2 separate tridentx 16gb kits (4x8gb) and also had to bump to 1.7v from 1.65 to get them stable iirc.


----------



## Dwofzz

Hey guys just a quick question, when running oc'd ram on this board do I perfer offset ot manual volt on the VCCSA?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yes, a combination of Vccsa and ram voltage. I ran 2 separate tridentx 16gb kits (4x8gb) and also had to bump to 1.7v from 1.65 to get them stable iirc.


Thanks, hopefully the .02 will help me out then. They're not OC'ed but I tried ram voltage up to 1.7 before and it did nothing which made me figure it might be controller side.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Hey guys just a quick question, when running oc'd ram on this board do I perfer offset ot manual volt on the VCCSA?


Depends how much you want I'd think. Offset is applied to both idle and load voltages if I recall correctly. For the vcore this might defeat the point of using an offset (enabling EIST/c-states/low idle temps/etc.) for certain users. Unless you need a massive boost to your vccsa, offset is likely best (I wouldn't expect manual setting to fluctuate with load). Though, again, I'm not very knowledge when it comes to RAM questions.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcclaviger*
> 
> Nope.
> 
> 5ghz all day with offset voltage of 0.15, LLC High, VRM Freq 1000, 180% current limit.


I take it this is Sandy-E? I would hope different but I've come to know better.
What chip exactly?
Apologies for not going back over the thread.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

3930k I think. Fairly sure it was a sandy-e though. Don't mind the ego, nothing to see move along


----------



## Madmaxneo

It figures as the 3930k was my original first choice. But I read some reviews that said the 4930k was an easier overclocker, even CPU boss still says that. I think says that based on the base core speed and the fact that it could get higher OC percentages, but not overall higher OC speeds.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Sure, and then factor in the board they're using to do it. I bet trying to OC a sandy-e on the rivbe is about as fun as trying to OC a ivy-e on the rive (non-black)


----------



## Mega Man

i dont know why everyone has issues

my 3930k took about 3 hours to find oc ( * NOT including stability testing * )


----------



## fishingfanatic

Yeah, same here. I never had an issue getting to 4.6 stable.

That's when I 1st started ocing. Found this site and haven't looked back.

Got a lot better results just from reading and trying different setups/settings.

Especially wcing!!!

Still lots to learn but enjoying every minute of it.









FF


----------



## Madmaxneo

I just checked the CPU Boss comparisons again and it seems I was a little off. The 3930k can OC better than the 4930k but that is the only thing it has on the 4930k. The 4930k has better scores in every other field, multicore performance, single core performance, lower power consumption, etc, etc.
Here is a link: 3030k vrs 4930k


----------



## sazistas

I have 2x nvidia gtx980 on my asus rampage iv black edition. In bios and gpu-z it says the cards are working at pcie 3.0 @ x8 and not x16. both of them. I have coreclty installed the gpus in the x16 slots. I updated the bios, i installed fresh windows 8.1 but still says x8. anyone know why its not working on x16?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sazistas*
> 
> I have 2x nvidia gtx980 on my asus rampage iv black edition. In bios and gpu-z it says the cards are working at pcie 3.0 @ x8 and not x16. both of them. I have coreclty installed the gpus in the x16 slots. I updated the bios, i installed fresh windows 8.1 but still says x8. anyone know why its not working on x16?


According to the book to run 2 cards at x16 they need to be in the first and third PCIE 3.0 slots. It is on page 1-23. Also make sure you are providing enough power. The book also recommends "ensure to plug in the 6 pin extra PCIe power supply for stability".

If you have something in the 2nd PCIe slot you should try removing that then checking to see if your in x16 for both.
I hope this helps.

Bruce


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Hey Guys/Gals,

I'm having a bit of a HUGE problem with my R4BE. For the last month something weird has been happening. My setup is pretty vanilla, with a 4930x, 32gig Dom Plat, EVGA Titan, all underwater. No overclocking or tweaks, and running Windows 8.

I've had the board for a year, but didn't actually turn on my build until November/December 2014. When it's in sleep mode and I try turning it on, the entire PC turns itself on and off continuously, every few seconds. Barely enough time for the BIOS screen to flash on the screen.

The second problem is a bit scarier, because sometimes when I try waking it up from sleep mode, it doesn't wake up at all, and I have to do a hard shut down and reboot.

Then lastly in recent days, the entire system goes completely dead - as in no power to anything. No motherboard light, no nothing. I tested the PSU yesterday, and that seems to be okay. So my guess is that it's the motherboard.

I removed the heatsink to install the EKWB monoblock, so I'm not sure if that'll void the warranty if I RMA it. The PC had been dead for the last two days now, but after yesterday's PSU test and wiggling the cables around, I came home from work to see that my Corsair RGB K70 LED display was all lit up. So now, I'm almost afraid to turn my PC off, in fear that it'll black out again for God knows how long.

Anyone care to chime in? Your responses are much appreciated.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@ ProfeZZor X: Have you installed the latest BIOS patches?

The real question is: Were you planning on overclocking eventually? With that setup I would hope so.

Bruce


----------



## electro2u

Warranty will be intact if everything is put back to stock. I'd probably test the board outside the case. Was thinking RAM instability at first but the no lights thing has me suspicious of the board itself. Could be the 24 pin connector. Is this still the rigid wiring?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Warranty will be intact if everything is put back to stock. I'd probably test the board outside the case. Was thinking RAM instability at first but the no lights thing has me suspicious of the board itself. Could be the 24 pin connector. Is this still the rigid wiring?


I thought about that too while I was trying to figure things out. I even made sure none of the wires separated from the 24 pin sockets. But yes, the rigid wiring is still going strong with no visible signs of decay, burning, or corrosion. In fact, I haven't had any issue with then since the day I turned this build on. I really can't say it's them that's causing the problem because I don't move the case around, nor has it been bumped into suddenly - all I can do is hope for the best.


----------



## sazistas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> According to the book to run 2 cards at x16 they need to be in the first and third PCIE 3.0 slots. It is on page 1-23. Also make sure you are providing enough power. The book also recommends "ensure to plug in the 6 pin extra PCIe power supply for stability".
> 
> If you have something in the 2nd PCIe slot you should try removing that then checking to see if your in x16 for both.
> I hope this helps.
> 
> Bruce


The cards are in the correct pcie slots (first and third), I also have connected the extra 6 pin power supply and there are no other pcie cards connected to the motherboard except the two gpus


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sazistas*
> 
> The cards are in the correct pcie slots (first and third), I also have connected the extra 6 pin power supply and there are no other pcie cards connected to the motherboard except the two gpus


Double check to make sure the bios update worked correctly as I had a problem with that myself.

What bios revision does it show in the bios (or on the splash screen if you can read it fast enough...lol)?

Also note that a few people on this thread have had problems with more than one GPU. I believe there is a problem with using the EVGA SLI bridge. If your using the EVGA SLI bridge you could try using another bridge if you can get your hands on one.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @ ProfeZZor X: *Have you installed the latest BIOS patches?*
> 
> The real question is: Were you planning on overclocking eventually? With that setup I would hope so.
> 
> Bruce


Is it the 0602 BIOS (3/4/2014) in the first post?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Ok, If 0602 is what your reading when it posts (the first post) then your still on the BIOS that the board was shipped with (at least I believe it is what mine was shipped with). The latest BIOS is 0801. You can double check in the BIOS itself or you can also check in the AI suite under system information if you have the AI suite installed.

Is that the one you tried flashing to?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Ok, If 0602 is what your reading when it posts (the first post) then your still on the BIOS that the board was shipped with (at least I believe it is what mine was shipped with). The latest BIOS is 0801. You can double check in the BIOS itself or you can also check in the AI suite under system information if you have the AI suite installed.
> 
> Is that the one you tried flashing to?


I haven't tried anything yet, other than look around on ASUS' website for the latest BIOS patch... And I didn't seem to find any definitive BIOS patch download areas there.


----------



## Madmaxneo

You have to select your motherboard then go to the support tab. Here is a link: Choose your OS
You will find it in the list, just amke sure you choose the latest BIOS. Once you download it you will need to rename it "R4BE.CAP".
Put it in a USB flash drive then follow the directions in your manual to correctly flash your BIOS. Please note that you have to hold in the button until it starts flashing then let it go and wait till it stops flashing. If it doesn't work the first time try again. If your PC won't start (I had this problem) then reset the CMOS and start over. Just make sure when you do the flash and it restarts check the BIOS version, it should be the same as the BIOS you downloaded.
I hope this helps.

Bruce

EDIT: While your there on the downloads page you should download all the latest drivers and tools that your going to use. They are probably more updated then what was on the included disc. Just make sure you update the BIOS first, then let us know if it helped.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I'm kind of worried now, he has not replied in about two days. I hope it's just he is to busy enjoying his machine to log in....


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey all, What is a good 140mm fan that I can use for the RIVBE that will go in the adjustable angle mount in the Phantom 820 case? I put just about any 120mm or 140mm fan in there.

My criteria, in order
1. Reliable
2. Quiet
3. LED lighting


----------



## SpecTRe-X

The phantek fans meet two of those requirements from what I recall of them. I can't speak to their reliability as I used them for a friends build.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Need some help with over clocking. Help is greatly appreciated. Have read taken notes. Very interesting. Totally confused at this point do not want to be second guessing at properly over clocking this system. ssues with LLC and Off set mode.

1. Make any changes to LLC other than Auto the computer automatically shuts off. Shuts off, powers off, as if you un plugged the computer when booting to windows or starting a stress test.
2. How do you compute Off-Set Mode. It is my understanding V-Core minus VID = Off set plus or minus. Example V-Core 1.30v. Vid 1.295v = + 0.005v.

HW Monitor is reading VID is 1.241v under maximum with a V Core at 1.30v.

R4BE, I 7 4930K Heat Sink Noctua NH-D14.

Entered BIOS. Load Defaults save and exit to windows. Back To BIOS.

Changed the following settings.

4.4 GHz
AI OC Tuner XMP Profile or Manual Mode. Select one or the other then O.C.. Do not change.
BCLK 100
CPU Strap 100
CPU Core Ratio Per Core 44
V-Core 1.245v BIOS Reading 1.04v
Off Set Mode +
0.005

Stress Test Pass: OCCT 1 hour, IntelBurn Test Runs 20, Prime 95 24 Hours. Maximum Core Temp 68c
CPU-Z
No Load on the CPU
CPU V Core Voltage 0.880v - 1.200v
When Stress Testing
CPU V Core Voltage 1.248v - 1.264v ****Need to adjust LLC?*****V Core 1.245v

4.5 GHz Maximum core Temp 72c.
Same settings as above. Except for.
V-Core 1.30v BIOS is reading when in BIOS 1.296v
BCLK 100
CPU Strap 100
V- Core 1.300v can pass all stress test at 1.295v BIOS
Off-Set Mode + 0.050v ******Seems to be high?********
CPU-Z when stress testing reading
CPU Load None 0.928v fluctuation in voltage none
CPU-Z Load 1.296v -1.312v
HW Monitor VID Maximum 1.241v
***************Digi Power Control/LLC Auto: The only setting can change from auto to High at 120 Percent.*******

1.35v is maximum Core Voltage for the NH-D14 heat sink at 85c.

Trying to get a 4.6 Ghz O.C.. at 1.35v to 1.38v with Hyper threading disabled. With Hyper Threading disabled the temps should lower? When running other apps use the 4.5 Ghz OC with Hyper Threading enabled.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You have to select your motherboard then go to the support tab. Here is a link: Choose your OS
> You will find it in the list, just amke sure you choose the latest BIOS. Once you download it you will need to rename it "R4BE.CAP".
> Put it in a USB flash drive then follow the directions in your manual to correctly flash your BIOS. Please note that you have to hold in the button until it starts flashing then let it go and wait till it stops flashing. If it doesn't work the first time try again. If your PC won't start (I had this problem) then reset the CMOS and start over. Just make sure when you do the flash and it restarts check the BIOS version, it should be the same as the BIOS you downloaded.
> I hope this helps.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> EDIT: While your there on the downloads page you should download all the latest drivers and tools that your going to use. They are probably more updated then what was on the included disc. Just make sure you update the BIOS first, then let us know if it helped.


Cannot get AI Suite to open. Error codes AI Suite Fan Controller. Any other recommendations? Contacted Asus Tech support 4 weeks ago, no reply from tech support.

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?39704-6-AI-Suite-III-Tips-That-Will-Save-Your-Life!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Cannot get AI Suite to open. Error codes AI Suite Fan Controller. Any other recommendations? Contacted Asus Tech support 4 weeks ago, no reply from tech support.
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?39704-6-AI-Suite-III-Tips-That-Will-Save-Your-Life!


That is junk and i have never been able to get any of the included fan controllers to be stable!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Cannot get AI Suite to open. Error codes AI Suite Fan Controller. Any other recommendations? Contacted Asus Tech support 4 weeks ago, no reply from tech support.
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?39704-6-AI-Suite-III-Tips-That-Will-Save-Your-Life!


My AI suite works just fine though I have not done any real tweaking just yet.
1. What OS are you using?
2. Did you load it from the included disc or the updated set from the website. Interesting thing. I just checked and I never unzipped the drivers from the website so I must still be using the program from the disc. If your using the "updated" one try loading the program from the disc.

I don't have any problem with the fan controllers. In fact I decided to mess with the OC panel for once, I clicked the fan button and everything got real quiet (now I am not caring for the extremely loud click sounds from my mechanical keyboard this late at night...lol). Everything is running the same as it was before only quieter, which is great. I double checked the settings and it is set to normal on the OC panel. My fans got louder when I installed the H240-x, maybe the fans had to get "jarred" a little when I was messing with the OC panel.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Need some help with over clocking. Help is greatly appreciated. Have read taken notes. Very interesting. Totally confused at this point do not want to be second guessing at properly over clocking this system. ssues with LLC and Off set mode.
> 
> 1. Make any changes to LLC other than Auto the computer automatically shuts off. Shuts off, powers off, as if you un plugged the computer when booting to windows or starting a stress test.
> 2. How do you compute Off-Set Mode. It is my understanding V-Core minus VID = Off set plus or minus. Example V-Core 1.30v. Vid 1.295v = + 0.005v.
> 
> HW Monitor is reading VID is 1.241v under maximum with a V Core at 1.30v.
> 
> R4BE, I 7 4930K Heat Sink Noctua NH-D14.
> 
> Entered BIOS. Load Defaults save and exit to windows. Back To BIOS.
> 
> Changed the following settings.
> 
> 4.4 GHz
> AI OC Tuner XMP Profile or Manual Mode. Select one or the other then O.C.. Do not change.
> BCLK 100
> CPU Strap 100
> CPU Core Ratio Per Core 44
> V-Core 1.245v BIOS Reading 1.04v
> Off Set Mode +
> 0.005
> 1.35v is maximum Core Voltage for the NH-D14 heat sink at 85c.
> 
> Trying to get a 4.6 Ghz O.C.. at 1.35v to 1.38v with Hyper threading disabled. With Hyper Threading disabled the temps should lower? When running other apps use the 4.5 Ghz OC with Hyper Threading enabled.


LLC high, all current capability to max

the problem is the vid changes on these chips the higher you go.

IE i only need +.1v @ 4.8 as my vid is 1.3
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You have to select your motherboard then go to the support tab. Here is a link: Choose your OS
> You will find it in the list, just amke sure you choose the latest BIOS. Once you download it you will need to rename it "R4BE.CAP".
> Put it in a USB flash drive then follow the directions in your manual to correctly flash your BIOS. Please note that you have to hold in the button until it starts flashing then let it go and wait till it stops flashing. If it doesn't work the first time try again. If your PC won't start (I had this problem) then reset the CMOS and start over. Just make sure when you do the flash and it restarts check the BIOS version, it should be the same as the BIOS you downloaded.
> I hope this helps.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> EDIT: While your there on the downloads page you should download all the latest drivers and tools that your going to use. They are probably more updated then what was on the included disc. Just make sure you update the BIOS first, then let us know if it helped.
> 
> 
> 
> Cannot get AI Suite to open. Error codes AI Suite Fan Controller. Any other recommendations? Contacted Asus Tech support 4 weeks ago, no reply from tech support.
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?39704-6-AI-Suite-III-Tips-That-Will-Save-Your-Life!
Click to expand...

just uninstal and throw it awway

get a aquaero problem solved and no crappy software to deal with


----------



## BrettJSr72

Anyone here use the Ai Suite fan control and/or the temp probes? I'm inquiring as to information for/against it. I'm currently air cooling my cards and want to get a better handle on air movement in my case, Cosmos II.

I have fans just about everywhere a fan can be put, Noctuas to be precise. Currently I have them plugged into a Swiftech 8way PWM splitter ran by the CPU AUX header. They only ramp up when the CPU is out to load.

I'm open to all suggestions.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Anyone here use the Ai Suite fan control and/or the temp probes? I'm inquiring as to information for/against it. I'm currently air cooling my cards and want to get a better handle on air movement in my case, Cosmos II.
> 
> I have fans just about everywhere a fan can be put, Noctuas to be precise. Currently I have them plugged into a Swiftech 8way PWM splitter ran by the CPU AUX header. They only ramp up when the CPU is out to load.
> 
> I'm open to all suggestions.


Get a aquaero and can get all info you need and if you want control the fans in 4 geoups instead of all at once. Can have 8 temp sensors


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> IE i only need +.1v @ 4.8 as my vid is 1.3
> just uninstal and throw it awway
> 
> get a aquaero problem solved and no crappy software to deal with


Those are nice looking and from what I hear very good controllers. But a little on the expensive side for many.

I haven't had any problems so far with my AI suite. I even have all the fan placements set in there.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Get a aquaero and can get all info you need and if you want control the fans in 4 geoups instead of all at once. Can have 8 temp sensors


Yeah, I have been looking at those but as some have mentioned, they are pricey. However, I have well over $1k tied up in cards so, price isn't too bad. Besides, I do plan to put these cards under water in the near future.(picture is outdated, I now have three 680's)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Yeah, I have been looking at those but as some have mentioned, they are pricey. However, I have well over $1k tied up in cards so, price isn't too bad. Besides, I do plan to put these cards under water in the near future.(picture is outdated, I now have three 680's)


Do you or have you had any problems with using all three cards in SLI? I have heard a few mention having problems with using 2 cards in SLI and still getting 16x on both cards and with 3 cards but only two are working in 8x.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Do you or have you had any problems with using all three cards in SLI? I have heard a few mention having problems with using 2 cards in SLI and still getting 16x on both cards and with 3 cards but only two are working in 8x.


the CPU has only 40 lanes so no way to get 3 cards at 16x. they will always be at 8. I do not have the book but I think it is actually 16x, 8x, 8x but could be wrong on this.

@Madmaxneo you are one of the luck few I have not heard of having problems with the AI suite. it might be working but I for sure would not trust it as many problems as I have seen people and I personally have had.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> the CPU has only 40 lanes so no way to get 3 cards at 16x. they will always be at 8. I do not have the book but I think it is actually 16x, 8x, 8x but could be wrong on this.
> 
> @Madmaxneo you are one of the luck few I have not heard of having problems with the AI suite. it might be working but I for sure would not trust it as many problems as I have seen people and I personally have had.


Yeah that is what I meant that with three cards but they are only getting x8 with two cards... At least that is what I assumed they meant.

I have not really pushed the AI suite except to set up a wifi port and a few other things.
I haven't used it to OC yet and I wasn't really planning to. I plan on primarily using the bios and the OC panel a little.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Do you or have you had any problems with using all three cards in SLI? I have heard a few mention having problems with using 2 cards in SLI and still getting 16x on both cards and with 3 cards but only two are working in 8x.


Book shows that they should be 16x 8x 16x unless you have something in the 4th PCIe slot then it would be 16x 8x 8x 8x. I did have my sound card there but have since removed it and strictily utilize onboard audio. I game with a headset so it doesn't matter anyway as my headset is USB powered.

I've noticed that my EVGA SLi bridge causes issues so I've switched out to the basic one that came with the board. I will be purchasing the Nvidia SLi bridge although I know the LED lighting will not work.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Book shows that they should be 16x 8x 16x unless you have something in the 4th PCIe slot then it would be 16x 8x 8x 8x. I did have my sound card there but have since removed it and strictily utilize onboard audio. I game with a headset so it doesn't matter anyway as my headset is USB powered.
> 
> I've noticed that my EVGA SLi bridge causes issues so I've switched out to the basic one that came with the board. I will be purchasing the Nvidia SLi bridge although I know the LED lighting will not work.


I not heard anything good about the EVGA SLI bridge, in fact all I have heard is that it does not work. I don't plan on using it and when I get to the point of using two cards or more. I will probably use the Nvidia SLI bridge. It makes sense (to me) that the company that makes the graphic cards would make the best SLI bridge for their cards. Though to be honest I really want the EVGA GeForce GTX TITAN X Hydro Copper, but it is a little out of my price range for now. I did notice they have a 980 hybrid (water cooling). I may be purchasing the 970 FTW this week and I wonder if that water cooler will work with the 970?

There are a few things that I am putting together about the RIVBE from what I have heard on this thread. It seems these boards were pushed out without any extensive testing other than what they did on the vanilla RIV boards. If they did extensive testing then I am befuddled on why there are still issues like reported here. There are quite a few "minor" issues that could be important issues if your a tech enthusiast, which is an oxymoron in a sense because these boards are supposed to be designed for tech enthusiasts. Then again I have not done any research as to where these boards were manufactured so that could have a play in the problems.


----------



## BrettJSr72

@Madmaxneo I think a lot of people want the GTX TITAN X. I think it is a smexy card but the price a bit out of reach. Now, I would like the 980 Kingpin edition, maybe two eventually but I first need to offload these GTX 680's. Granted they are working fantastic for me, I just got the upgrade itch.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> the CPU has only 40 lanes so no way to get 3 cards at 16x. they will always be at 8. I do not have the book but I think it is actually 16x, 8x, 8x but could be wrong on this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Book shows that they should be 16x 8x 16x unless you have something in the 4th PCIe slot then it would be 16x 8x 8x 8x.


This^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I not heard anything good about the EVGA SLI bridge, in fact all I have heard is that it does not work. I don't plan on using it and when I get to the point of using two cards or more. I will probably use the Nvidia SLI bridge. It makes sense (to me) that the company that makes the graphic cards would make the best SLI bridge for their cards. Though to be honest I really want the EVGA GeForce GTX TITAN X Hydro Copper, but it is a little out of my price range for now. I did notice they have a 980 hybrid (water cooling). I may be purchasing the 970 FTW this week and I wonder if that water cooler will work with the 970?
> 
> There are a few things that I am putting together about the RIVBE from what I have heard on this thread. It seems these boards were pushed out without any extensive testing other than what they did on the vanilla RIV boards. If they did extensive testing then I am befuddled on why there are still issues like reported here. There are quite a few "minor" issues that could be important issues if your a tech enthusiast, which is an oxymoron in a sense because these boards are supposed to be designed for tech enthusiasts. Then again I have not done any research as to where these boards were manufactured so that could have a play in the problems.


The best bridge is the one that works lol. The ones that come with the board are likely just as good as the ones from Nvidia.

Personally I'd go for a standard air cooled card and buy a water block separately. My reasoning behind that is if I have to test the rig or run without water for a while (say my pump fails) I can still run the card after switching the cooler out. With cards that come pre-blocked you can't really do that. I'd also go for a 980 or SLI 980s. The titan x is more an "I have one" card as all teh tests I've seen it was beaten by the 295x2. If you're not against SLI then 2 or 3 980s are the way to go as you'll get more performance out of those than you will from a single titan x.

It is an enthusiast board, the problem is that not everyone who uses it has the experience required to do so. I think the board is really solid and that most of the problems people are having is user related and not specifically the board's fault. This isn't the board you buy when building your first rig (and I've seen a lot of those posts around newegg and forums), this is the board you buy after you've been building rigs and OC'ing a while. People see the price and features and get it because they want the best while not understanding the difference between _*the best*_ and *the best for them*.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Anyone here use the Ai Suite fan control and/or the temp probes? I'm inquiring as to information for/against it. I'm currently air cooling my cards and want to get a better handle on air movement in my case, Cosmos II.
> 
> I have fans just about everywhere a fan can be put, Noctuas to be precise. Currently I have them plugged into a Swiftech 8way PWM splitter ran by the CPU AUX header. They only ramp up when the CPU is out to load.
> 
> I'm open to all suggestions.
> 
> 
> 
> Get a aquaero and can get all info you need and if you want control the fans in 4 geoups instead of all at once. Can have 8 temp sensors
Click to expand...

Look into the aq5. Not to bad but may not have what you need and may need further accessories


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Well the .02 vccsa increase didn't help the 6f ram issue. I boosted it to .025 and am waiting again. I think I'll just have to save up and buy one of those matched octa-stick 32gb kits. I should have just bought one of those kits from the start.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> This^
> The best bridge is the one that works lol. The ones that come with the board are likely just as good as the ones from Nvidia.
> 
> Personally I'd go for a standard air cooled card and buy a water block separately. My reasoning behind that is if I have to test the rig or run without water for a while (say my pump fails) I can still run the card after switching the cooler out. With cards that come pre-blocked you can't really do that. I'd also go for a 980 or SLI 980s. The titan x is more an "I have one" card as all teh tests I've seen it was beaten by the 295x2. If you're not against SLI then 2 or 3 980s are the way to go as you'll get more performance out of those than you will from a single titan x.
> 
> It is an enthusiast board, the problem is that not everyone who uses it has the experience required to do so. I think the board is really solid and that most of the problems people are having is user related and not specifically the board's fault. This isn't the board you buy when building your first rig (and I've seen a lot of those posts around newegg and forums), this is the board you buy after you've been building rigs and OC'ing a while. People see the price and features and get it because they want the best while not understanding the difference between _*the best*_ and *the best for them*.


Well this will be only my second OC attempt. With the first one being my core 2 quad Q6700 on an ASUS P5N-D board. I only got it to a stable 3.36ghz but I didn't mess with it much. I am still very new to OCing and yes I did want the best though I didn't need it. In truth I am very happy I got this board so far and everything is working perfectly (seemingly). I try to be very meticulous on things like this (if you haven't noticed yet) which is why I have not OC'd the CPU just yet.
I am thinking about the 980's in SLI but they don't seem worth the price. I could get the GTX 970 right now but I would be pushing my budget. I am not sure if I want to get the 970 or wait for who knows how long to save up for the 980.

There is one thing that as made me pause in going ahead and getting the GTX 970. In another thread on OC.net I read that it only having 3.5 gb of RAM can cause some serious "stutter" issues when running at 120hz or higher refresh rate. My next purchase is the ASUS VG248QE monitor which handles a 144hz refresh rate quite well from what I understand.

Has anyone else heard this same thing?

Bruce


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> This^
> The best bridge is the one that works lol. The ones that come with the board are likely just as good as the ones from Nvidia.
> 
> Personally I'd go for a standard air cooled card and buy a water block separately. My reasoning behind that is if I have to test the rig or run without water for a while (say my pump fails) I can still run the card after switching the cooler out. With cards that come pre-blocked you can't really do that. I'd also go for a 980 or SLI 980s. The titan x is more an "I have one" card as all teh tests I've seen it was beaten by the 295x2. If you're not against SLI then 2 or 3 980s are the way to go as you'll get more performance out of those than you will from a single titan x.
> 
> It is an enthusiast board, the problem is that not everyone who uses it has the experience required to do so. I think the board is really solid and that most of the problems people are having is user related and not specifically the board's fault. This isn't the board you buy when building your first rig (and I've seen a lot of those posts around newegg and forums), this is the board you buy after you've been building rigs and OC'ing a while. People see the price and features and get it because they want the best while not understanding the difference between _*the best*_ and *the best for them*.
> 
> 
> 
> Well this will be only my second OC attempt. With the first one being my core 2 quad Q6700 on an ASUS P5N-D board. I only got it to a stable 3.36ghz but I didn't mess with it much. I am still very new to OCing and yes I did want the best though I didn't need it. In truth I am very happy I got this board so far and everything is working perfectly (seemingly). I try to be very meticulous on things like this (if you haven't noticed yet) which is why I have not OC'd the CPU just yet.
> I am thinking about the 980's in SLI but they don't seem worth the price. I could get the GTX 970 right now but I would be pushing my budget. I am not sure if I want to get the 970 or wait for who knows how long to save up for the 980.
> 
> There is one thing that as made me pause in going ahead and getting the GTX 970. In another thread on OC.net I read that it only having 3.5 gb of RAM can cause some serious "stutter" issues when running at 120hz or higher refresh rate. My next purchase is the ASUS VG248QE monitor which handles a 144hz refresh rate quite well from what I understand.
> 
> Has anyone else heard this same thing?
> 
> Bruce
Click to expand...

this may not be 100% but this is the way i understand it
basically when you exceed that 3.5gb it uses the remaining 512, which is REALLY REALLY slow


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> The titan x is more an "*I have one*" card as all teh tests I've seen it was beaten by the 295x2. If you're not against SLI then 2 or 3 980s are the way to go as you'll get more performance out of those than you will from a single titan x.


I agree. It's just a darn good looking card. Love how they did it in black. However, SLi 980's or SLi'd 980 Kingpins is how I plan to go. Not sure I'll do three-way SLi again. Not that I don't like it, I do however I didn't have as many issues with two cards.


----------



## Mega Man

i just dont get it .....

it like most nvidia is weak, it can not even fight against, what a 2 year old card? amd beats them each gen

heck the 79xx lasted what? 2.5 gen ?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well this will be only my second OC attempt. With the first one being my core 2 quad Q6700 on an ASUS P5N-D board. I only got it to a stable 3.36ghz but I didn't mess with it much. I am still very new to OCing and yes I did want the best though I didn't need it. In truth I am very happy I got this board so far and everything is working perfectly (seemingly). I try to be very meticulous on things like this (if you haven't noticed yet) which is why I have not OC'd the CPU just yet.
> I am thinking about the 980's in SLI but they don't seem worth the price. I could get the GTX 970 right now but I would be pushing my budget. I am not sure if I want to get the 970 or wait for who knows how long to save up for the 980.
> 
> There is one thing that as made me pause in going ahead and getting the GTX 970. In another thread on OC.net I read that it only having 3.5 gb of RAM can cause some serious "stutter" issues when running at 120hz or higher refresh rate. My next purchase is the ASUS VG248QE monitor which handles a 144hz refresh rate quite well from what I understand.
> 
> Has anyone else heard this same thing?
> 
> Bruce


Yeah, but you're the exception and not the rule.

If a 980 is out of your price range you could always go for something like the 290x for a little more than a 970. I rushed to buy a card I could afford and ended up regretting it, never again.

I have heard about the 970 issues and from what I've read it has to do with how the OS handles the card's assets but I couldn't say for sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> I agree. It's just a darn good looking card. Love how they did it in black. However, SLi 980's or SLi'd 980 Kingpins is how I plan to go. Not sure I'll do three-way SLi again. Not that I don't like it, I do however I didn't have as many issues with two cards.


Looks don't really matter once it's under water lol. Kingpin cards are probably a waste too unless you're going for really insane OCs on high end water or records under LN2. but that's just me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i just dont get it .....
> 
> it like most nvidia is weak, it can not even fight against, what a 2 year old card? amd beats them each gen
> 
> heck the 79xx lasted what? 2.5 gen ?


You mean in terms of the titan series or in general? I haven't really been watching the last few years due to lack of need to upgrade. I do doubt that the performance gap has been _that_ significant though.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> LLC high, all current capability to max
> 
> the problem is the vid changes on these chips the higher you go.
> 
> IE i only need +.1v @ 4.8 as my vid is 1.3
> 
> What is IE?
> 
> OK, Noobie question like I mentioned a bit confused on this. I need to change the LLC if I understand you correctly in order to lower the voltage for Off set mode? Using HW Monitor to read the VID is there another utility I should be using to read the VID? I am under shooting the voltage reported in CPU-Z?
> 
> 4.5 GHz, V-Core 1.295v CPU-Z is reading 1.296v thru 1.312v HW Monitor VID 1.241v Maximum
> 
> Tried LLC Normal thru High from 120 percent thru 170 Percent the computer shuts off same as if you turn off the power switch. Boot OC Failed. F-1 to enter BIOS. Try Ultra High 100 percent thru 170 Percent? Left on Auto not having this issue.
> 
> just uninstal and throw it awway
> 
> get a aquaero problem solved and no crappy software to deal with


Every one thank you for the reply: Decided to run a test to see if it was an issue with the REGEDIT files. Took an old Hard drive did a clean installation Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit thru elevated command prompt Clean All/Disk 0=Disk C. The other 5 hard drives were disabled. Install AI Suite lll from the disk. Same Issue tried the down load version again same issue. Not the REGEDIT File. After that failure went thru the folders and un blocked all of the files for installation.
REGEDIT file is not corrupted.

Anti Virus None Administrator rights yes UAC is disabled.

Then down loaded AI Suite Three specific from Asus. Made sure all files and folders are unblocked Properties/General/Tap Un-Block. Per Asus.

The following error codes related to the installation for Dual Intelligent Processor 4 is part of AIO Suite lll Fan Controller.
Error codes.

Dip.AwayMode.EXE Has stopped working. This is related to Fan Controller
InvalidClassString,ProgID I thought this was rerlated to the REGEDIT File possible corruption not the case. AsusFanControlService.FanControlManager

Nuts to it uninstalled all of the Asus AI Suite lll. Tired of messing with AI Suite. As you mentioned Mega resolve the issue more than one way to skin a cat. Aquero Pro 5 or run the fan control thru BIOS and do this. Running 11 case fans and 2 CPU fans controlled currently thru the BIOS will look at Aquero Pro 5.

Have a Real Temp Folder in Programs/86 linked the Application to the startup folder/enabled it in the notification tab CPU temp is monitored by the clock. Set the alarm temp at 90c for the CPU.
On the GTX 780s running MSI Afterburner to set the scale for the fans and monitor the temps by the clock.

Monitoring CPU Temps and GPU Temps by the clock Issue resolved **Done***

All the replies are appreciated thank you

Larry


----------



## Mega Man

Ie is in example.

I think you are looking at vcore not vid. I don't use hw monitor


----------



## Madmaxneo

On the GTX 970 cards:
I received some input from someone who is in the know on a lot of tech stuff. He said, and I quote
"Basically, if the game you're running needs more than 3.5GB of VRAM, its performance can drop. NVIDIA supposedly has a driver out now that helps mitigate the issue.
However, I will point out a few things that nobody seems to ever say:
The graphics card has 4GB of VRAM. All of it is accessible
All of the individual chips run at the same speed and have the same bandwidth. Basically, it's like running with 8 drives in RAID 0, only drives 7 & 8 have to share a SATA port. So depending on how the transfers need to happen, you can use all 8 with very little issue."

He also mentioned to wait (if I could) until AMD offers up something which will drive prices down on the 980. The problem is it's unknown when that will happen.
TBH I would rather not have to deal with poor performance because of VRAM issues on the cards. I just would like to make sure I can run my games at high refresh rates (those that will), run some 3d games, and play some 3d movies all on the ASUS VG248 monitor I am getting.

So for now I am at least looking to upgrade my current GTX 750Ti to something better but not expensive. But I am not sure what to get. I was aiming for the 970 but if not then I don't want to spend the same amount, maybe around $200 at best. I at least want something that will allow me to use the higher refresh rates of the ASUS monitor I'm getting.

Then again maybe I should go with AMD......but don't they all perform about the same in the end?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

It really depends on the games I think, though I've never owned an AMD/ati card.


----------



## Mega Man

It really isn't a good analogy.

"8" doesn't just share it only can get into 1st gear.

There is plenty of resources on this. Google 970 memory

http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphics-Cards/NVIDIA-Discloses-Full-Memory-Structure-and-Limitations-GTX-970


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Yeah but to say that 22GB/s isn't fast is like saying a bullet is slow. Sure, compared to a faster bullet or light a bullet is slow but if you have a race between that bullet and a runner the runner is slow.

In the end it is how the controlling software or programs assign work and use the card's resources that determines how large a problem that slower speed is. When I watched PCper's video a few weeks back that was the general take-away.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ie is in example.
> 
> I think you are looking at vcore not vid. I don't use hw monitor


4.5 Ghz @ V- Core setting in BIOS 1.30v

CPU-Z 1.296-1.312v

I need to adjust the LLC?
Why is it taking a + 0.500v for off set mode this seems to be rather high off set voltage?

Is there another setting I need to make to lower the Off set voltage?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ie is in example.
> 
> I think you are looking at vcore not vid. I don't use hw monitor


Very new at over clocking.

4.6 GHz OC Core Temp 78c

Have BIOS V-Core set at 1.330v CPU-Z Core Voltage reading 1.344v

Is this V-Droop or is CPU-Z not reading the voltage correctly? Do need to adjust Load Line Calibration to balance CPU-Z Core Voltage 1.344v to BIOS V-Core 1.330v


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> 4.5 Ghz @ V- Core setting in BIOS 1.30v
> 
> CPU-Z 1.296-1.312v
> 
> I need to adjust the LLC?
> Why is it taking a + 0.500v for off set mode this seems to be rather high off set voltage?
> 
> Is there another setting I need to make to lower the Off set voltage?
> Very new at over clocking.
> 
> 4.6 GHz OC Core Temp 78c
> 
> Have BIOS V-Core set at 1.330v CPU-Z Core Voltage reading 1.344v
> 
> Is this V-Droop or is CPU-Z not reading the voltage correctly? Do need to adjust Load Line Calibration to balance CPU-Z Core Voltage 1.344v to BIOS V-Core 1.330v


CPU-Z is always one step lower on the volt for me, So if CPU-Z shows 1.344 the actual volt is more like 1.36v ~ and so on.


----------



## ledzepp3

Well my board is back at Asus again for yet another RMA. Getting really sick of this -_-


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Well my board is back at Asus again for yet another RMA. Getting really sick of this -_-


Sorry to hear that, I hope it works out ok for you. Is this your second RIVBE RMA? At this point it is getting ridiculous and I would start looking for a different board, but that's just me.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Yeah but to say that 22GB/s isn't fast is like saying a bullet is slow. Sure, compared to a faster bullet or light a bullet is slow but if you have a race between that bullet and a runner the runner is slow.
> 
> In the end it is how the controlling software or programs assign work and use the card's resources that determines how large a problem that slower speed is. When I watched PCper's video a few weeks back that was the general take-away.


when you talk about GPUs it makes a big difference, what does the rest of the ram read at ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ie is in example.
> 
> I think you are looking at vcore not vid. I don't use hw monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 4.5 Ghz @ V- Core setting in BIOS 1.30v
> 
> CPU-Z 1.296-1.312v
> 
> I need to adjust the LLC?
> Why is it taking a + 0.500v for off set mode this seems to be rather high off set voltage?
> 
> Is there another setting I need to make to lower the Off set voltage?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ie is in example.
> 
> I think you are looking at vcore not vid. I don't use hw monitor
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Very new at over clocking.
> 
> 4.6 GHz OC Core Temp 78c
> 
> Have BIOS V-Core set at 1.330v CPU-Z Core Voltage reading 1.344v
> 
> Is this V-Droop or is CPU-Z not reading the voltage correctly? Do need to adjust Load Line Calibration to balance CPU-Z Core Voltage 1.344v to BIOS V-Core 1.330v
Click to expand...

ok again, BIOS is not VID

VID is VID



you are setting vcore ( @ 1.3 ) you get some voltage drop, this is normal.

personally i think you read into this too much.

first, pick a number you are ok with for vcore, if you are ok buying a new chip over 1.4v

if not then less... maybe alot less,

second oc like you do. do not go over the number found in step 1.

do not trust software, as it seems this number is very important for you, use a DMM ( Digital Multi Meter )

it sounds like your llc is fine, you are near 1.3

if you expect exactly 1.3v then i got bad news from you, it is impossible ..... all the time


----------



## seross69

@mega man

What would you saiy is safe vcore for a 4960???


----------



## Mega Man

assuming they have the same max voltage from intel.... * as sandyb * ( dont know ivy e sorry ... )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you are ok buying a new chip over 1.4v
> 
> if not then less... maybe alot less,


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Sorry to hear that, I hope it works out ok for you. Is this your second RIVBE RMA? At this point it is getting ridiculous and I would start looking for a different board, but that's just me.


RMA number four..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Wow, that is a lot of bad boards. Did you get any of them up and running at all? I guess I was lucky in getting this board up and running as good as it is so far.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> when you talk about GPUs it makes a big difference, what does the rest of the ram read at ?


~150GB/s according to the article iirc.


----------



## Mega Man

so.....150gbps vs 22gbps .... thats not slow ????

what you neglect to mention is that the gpu can process faster then that secondary "fast" ram can feed .... which yes makes it slow like a pinto vs charger....


----------



## tatmMRKIV

someone was running a 4930K at 1.55v @ 4.8ghz for a year on custom cooler


----------



## Mega Man

as i said you easily can.

look at htpc, but intel says anything over 1.4 ( again sandy b ) can cause immediate damage does that mean it will. no. but it can

so if you do go over 1.4 be ok if you kill your chip


----------



## friskiest

That's what the tuning plan is for


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so.....150gbps vs 22gbps .... thats not slow ????
> 
> what you neglect to mention is that the gpu can process faster then that secondary "fast" ram can feed .... which yes makes it slow like a pinto vs charger....


I've said it depends on how that last half gig is used how many times now? The PCper video itself said that if that last segment was used for non-critical cache then its speed wouldn't be an issue or at least not as big an issue. Even then the card is only one aspect of the matter, the game, game settings, OS, drivers, and other hardware play into this too. To pin it all on the ram config is a tad overly simplistic.


----------



## Mega Man

Or. .. I could just buy. .. 290/290x

















They even have 8gb models out
... which is more then double. ...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Or. .. I could just buy. .. 290/290x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They even have 8gb models out
> ... which is more then double. ...


That's funny and a hit on nvidia.

But I don't get why your bringing that up. SpecTRe-X was explaining how the memory worked with the 970 and not comparing anything.


----------



## Mega Man

I disagreed with him. Showed why.
Then ended with a joke.


----------



## tatmMRKIV





i find this relevant and hilarious


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Wow, that is a lot of bad boards. Did you get any of them up and running at all? I guess I was lucky in getting this board up and running as good as it is so far.


My very first board was DOA, the second one went bad after a while, the third one had the same issue, and the board I'll be getting back will be RMA #4. I love this board and genuinely think it's awesome (when it works







) and it's the center piece in my rig along with the full nickel clean EK Supremacy . I even went to the lengths to light it really well and make sure the fluid color wouldn't take any attention away from it..


----------



## Mega Man

I honestly think you just keep ending up with the short straw









@tat I love that video


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i find this relevant and hilarious


this was hilarious, thanks!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah that gets me every time, I found it over on hwbot xD


----------



## BrettJSr72

Guys & Gals, someone please lend me assistance. I know somewhere, there is a guide or someone has currently, instructions on OC'c a 4930 that is stable. Would someone be so kind as to point me in the right direction towards them? I am currently running a clock that I know has potential for bad outcomes and I want to avoid at ALL costs.

I joined this site to learn so, teach me,PUH-LEASE!!!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Or. .. I could just buy. .. 290/290x
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They even have 8gb models out
> ... which is more then double. ...


Indeed. Not everyone would make the same choice, I'm sure, but that is always an option to consider.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i find this relevant and hilarious


Listening to that was like being dipped in molten lead while having a cheese grater pulled across my scrotum.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Guys & Gals, someone please lend me assistance. I know somewhere, there is a guide or someone has currently, instructions on OC'c a 4930 that is stable. Would someone be so kind as to point me in the right direction towards them? I am currently running a clock that I know has potential for bad outcomes and I want to avoid at ALL costs.
> 
> I joined this site to learn so, teach me,PUH-LEASE!!!


The first thing you have to understand is that if you know it's a dangerous clock then there is likely little that can be done, if anything, to ensure a safe end result. Overclocking in general is inherently dangerous to your components and frying or degrading parts of your rig is always a possibility.

With that said if you could refresh me on what clock it is you're trying to attain I may be able to offer further advice. For now I'll leave you with this guide as a general "how to" as it is packed with good info and practices. I know that it's not for your chip specifically but I don't know of an Ivy-E specific guide as well put together as that one. The limits voltage safe limits for Ivy-e should be easy enough to find with google.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i find this relevant and hilarious


I havent laughed that hard in awhile, thanks!

The thing funniest is im sure there were alot of people that sold or traded in the 970 for a 980 and the 290x could sustwin a small village in power consumption and if not under water its a very effective (noisy) space heater


----------



## Mega Man

heck if i had known i would of shown that video ( not saying i did this time ) when it first came out, there are several of them

also people like to say all these things about them, but when i was on air it really was not bad, on top of that the power is not that different when you actually figure out the little usage it has @ 100% and the actual cost of running it


----------



## Madmaxneo

That video was hilarious!
But I did watch the NCIX video also on the effects of only 3.5 gb of VRAM. It seems that only having 3.5 gb of RAM does not really make that much of a difference. But I still think nvidia should offer some nice discounts for the next few months just to appease it's fan base. ...I'd go for a 980 FTW at $350, wouldn't you?


----------



## Mega Man

how do you think it was found that this issue exists ?

because yes it does make a difference


----------



## Metatr0n

They found out becaues of a synthetic benchmark. Then *afterwards* tested it with Skyrim + over9000 texture-packs and Shadow of Mordor + mods to confirm the results of the syntchetic benchmark. So no, in real-life-gaming-situations it doesn't make a difference.
And if anyone complains about "3.5 GB is not enough to play future games on ultra-settings and 4k herpderp" then he clearly didn't understand what 980s, Titans and SLI are for and why the 970 is so "cheap" (Compared to them).

I can't buy a car with 130 HP, complain that it only has 110 HP and say "The missing 20 HP is the ONLY reason why I can't compete with the Street- and Drag-Racers!".
If your purpose is Street-Racing, you should get a car that suits the job. If you want to play next-gen-games on ultra-settings + texture-packs on 4k, then probably a single GTX X70 is not what you're looking for.

But meh, humans...


----------



## Mega Man

well i am glad people are willing to be lied to....

i have some ocean front property in CO i would love to sell you, and a bridge !


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> They found out becaues of a synthetic benchmark. Then *afterwards* tested it with Skyrim + over9000 texture-packs and Shadow of Mordor + mods to confirm the results of the syntchetic benchmark. So no, in real-life-gaming-situations it doesn't make a difference.
> And if anyone complains about "3.5 GB is not enough to play future games on ultra-settings and 4k herpderp" then he clearly didn't understand what 980s, Titans and SLI are for and why the 970 is so "cheap" (Compared to them).
> 
> I can't buy a car with 130 HP, complain that it only has 110 HP and say "The missing 20 HP is the ONLY reason why I can't compete with the Street- and Drag-Racers!".
> If your purpose is Street-Racing, you should get a car that suits the job. If you want to play next-gen-games on ultra-settings + texture-packs on 4k, then probably a single GTX X70 is not what you're looking for.
> 
> But meh, humans...


Exactly. Once dx12 begins to be implemented and the vram is shared across all cards instead of it being mirrored like it currently is this is going to be an even larger non-issue. Of course there will still be engineering to marketing communication errors and people will still find something to nit-pick to death because that second string card didn't end up being exactly what they expected but what can you do?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well i am glad people are willing to be lied to....
> 
> i have some ocean front property in CO i would love to sell you, and a bridge !


You do realize that because the planet is constantly being reshaped on one level or another that this isn't as entirely inaccurate as you'd think. Technically speaking it isn't a matter of _if_ that property will be beach front but _when_.


----------



## Metatr0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well i am glad people are willing to be lied to....


We're talking tech here, not marketing. Selling it as a 4 GB card is legit, because it has legit 4 GB.
Selling it as a 4 GB card without telling the customer that 3.5 GB are able to communicate fast while 0.5 GB are able to communicate slow, is a scam.
But like I said, we're not talking marketing here.

The average PC community just thinks that with 500 $ you're able to buy worlds fastest supercomputer and that's rubbish. Performance costs money, in all parts of your life.

There can be a car with a solid performance for a solid price. You can be certain that there will be one idiot on this planet who takes the car on the Nürburg-Ring only to complain about that the car can't hit 290 kph. And as soon as that information hits the media, half of humanity complains about it. That the car wasn't designed for it in the first place doesn't matter in that situation.
If you want a car that is capable of going 290 kph on the Nürburg-Ring, you have to pay 5 or 6 times more money. Period.

Talking marketing it would be like advertising a hybrid car with 200 HP while in reality it has 120 HP on fuel and 80 HP on electricity. That's a scam, too and shouldn't be tolerated but that doesn't mean that you can't ride it on the Autobahn at an adequate speed.

You want to hit 290 kph on the Autobahn? Good, spend your money on a Porsche 911 GT3. You don't have enough money for that? Then stop complaining.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Or. .. I could just buy. .. 290/290x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They even have 8gb models out
> ... which is more then double. ...


AMD bragging about having a 4 GB card. Yeah, go for the company that scammed millions of people in 2011 by advertising their Bulldozer with 0.8 billion transistors more than it really had.

People who live in a glass house...


----------



## Kimir

We should be talking Rampage IV Black here, not graphic cards.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> We should be talking Rampage IV Black here, not graphic cards.


Why the black is so so last year!!!! Not really wroth talking about


----------



## Metatr0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> We should be talking Rampage IV Black here, not graphic cards.


Correct.

I installed the EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE - Nickel (Original CSQ) and it's working great. Going to take my system apart again because I'm changing my Masterkleer tubing with Primochill and adding Mayhems Pastel Mint Green.
Going to update the pictures from my rig since I didn't update it for a long time now.

Also I'm going to saw off the heatpipes from the VRM cooler so that I can use the black cover again.

After everything is done, I'll take a look at how far I can overclock my i7 3930k since the CPU, GPU and mainbaord is only cooled by a 480 radiatior that isn't getting enough air because of the Corsair Obsidian 800D. Right now it's at 3.8 GHz and under full load (CPU + GPU) the max temps are:

Cores: 63°C (Only Core #0 maxes out at 68°C)
CPU block as a whole: 53°C
GPU: 52°C
Mainboard: 31°C
PCH: 40°C


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Why the black is so so last year!!!! Not really wroth talking about


*slaps with glove* In RivBE's honor I challange thee to swords at dawn! Do you accept, you cankerous cluster of vile filth?


----------



## Metatr0n

You may chose: sword or pistol?

*Hopes you guys know that skit from "A bit of Fry and Laurie"*


----------



## Dwofzz

How much and when do I apply skew?


----------



## Dantrax

My OS SSD died so I had to reinstall Win7. I still have that other devices yellow asterisk with the unknown device. Anybody remember what motherboard driver to load to clear this up? I can't fully load one older Intel MEI file for some reason but other than that I'm looking for any suggestions for something I may have forgotten to load. Thanks Dantrax


----------



## Dantrax

I have a secret question I need to ask. I won't tell my Asus Rampage 4 Black Edition. What's the hottest new Asus motherboard that uses the X99 chipset? Just whisper the answer to me so she won't find out that I'm asking. Thanks


----------



## fishingfanatic

Gigabyte SOC Champ!

I know, Asus...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> I have a secret question I need to ask. I won't tell my Asus Rampage 4 Black Edition. What's the hottest new Asus motherboard that uses the X99 chipset? Just whisper the answer to me so she won't find out that I'm asking. Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> Gigabyte SOC Champ!


With Asus for x99 I would say just the Extreme board right now. Actually, I would suggest just saving for Skylake if your Black Edition is treating you right.


----------



## Dantrax

Thanks, Yeah Blacks been good to me so I'm keeping it. Looking to play with Win10 on another SSD I was going to install. I'll wait for Skylake, NVMe, etc. The new stuff & ideas never seem to end.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> Thanks, Yeah Blacks been good to me so I'm keeping it. Looking to play with Win10 on another SSD I was going to install. I'll wait for Skylake, NVMe, etc. The new stuff & ideas never seem to end.


Skylake will hopefully have a Black for it







so go from black to black thats my plan.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Skylake will hopefully have a Black for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so go from black to black thats my plan.


Once you go black you never go back


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Once you go black you never go back


Oh that's so funny on so many levels.....lol...
The problem is it will be for socket 1151, of which I am not sure ASUS will develop a Rampage board for it. It would be nice though. What I think is interesting is the uniDIMM capabilities for either DDR3 or DDR4 DIMMS along with PCIe 4. But what I could not find is how many PCIe lanes it will support. On the Wiki it says they will support up to 20 PCIe lanes which will translate to a total of what? It states the current limit is 8 PCIe lanes in socket 1150 so I am not sure what that will mean for total available in terms of GPU usage.

Anyone understand enough of that to care to explain?

Bruce


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oh that's so funny on so many levels.....lol...
> The problem is it will be for socket 1151, of which I am not sure ASUS will develop a Rampage board for it. It would be nice though. What I think is interesting is the uniDIMM capabilities for either DDR3 or DDR4 DIMMS along with PCIe 4. But what I could not find is how many PCIe lanes it will support. On the Wiki it says they will support up to 20 PCIe lanes which will translate to a total of what? It states the current limit is 8 PCIe lanes in socket 1150 so I am not sure what that will mean for total available in terms of GPU usage.
> 
> Anyone understand enough of that to care to explain?
> 
> Bruce


Umm so what you think there just going to skip skylake E lol? Or my apologies I should have said broadwell before as the rampage 5 black will be for that CPU. As it is the 2011-3 refresh which is when black boards come out so that will be 2016.

However there will be a skylake E and it will have a rampage board so your 1151 statement doesn't make any sence. Not to say that your wrong there may or may not be a black edition for skylake E it defiantly won't come out with the skylake E launch unless Intel decides to keep 2011-3 for 3 generations then idk Asus will have to make a white edition on gen 3 lol.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dantrax*
> 
> My OS SSD died so I had to reinstall Win7. I still have that other devices yellow asterisk with the unknown device. Anybody remember what motherboard driver to load to clear this up? I can't fully load one older Intel MEI file for some reason but other than that I'm looking for any suggestions for something I may have forgotten to load. Thanks Dantrax


Insert driver disk that came the board, then right click the yellow question marked line and let it browse automatically.

Something like that at least.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oh that's so funny on so many levels.....lol...
> The problem is it will be for socket 1151, of which I am not sure ASUS will develop a Rampage board for it. It would be nice though. What I think is interesting is the uniDIMM capabilities for either DDR3 or DDR4 DIMMS along with PCIe 4. But what I could not find is how many PCIe lanes it will support. On the Wiki it says they will support up to 20 PCIe lanes which will translate to a total of what? It states the current limit is 8 PCIe lanes in socket 1150 so I am not sure what that will mean for total available in terms of GPU usage.
> 
> Anyone understand enough of that to care to explain?
> 
> Bruce


Basically for every 16 PCIe lanes you have 1 full speed PCIe x16 slot. So 20 lanes would be something like [email protected], [email protected]/x8, [email protected]/x8/x4. That applies to any card in the slot though, so if you're running a gfx card and a raid card then you're still only getting the x8/x8 speeds because two slots are occupied (from what I understand). I concur that we shouldn't expect a Black Edition for a non-enthusiast socket. The Expanded edition chip, on the other hand, would likely be a different story.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Umm so what you think there just going to skip skylake E lol? Or my apologies I should have said broadwell before as the rampage 5 black will be for that CPU. As it is the 2011-3 refresh which is when black boards come out so that will be 2016.
> 
> However there will be a skylake E and it will have a rampage board so your 1151 statement doesn't make any sence. Not to say that your wrong there may or may not be a black edition for skylake E it defiantly won't come out with the skylake E launch unless Intel decides to keep 2011-3 for 3 generations then idk Asus will have to make a white edition on gen 3 lol.


What Max said makes plenty of sense since no one said anything about Skylake-E. Basically if the socket doesn't fall into the "X" category then it likely won't be getting a black edition and since those tiny sockets are marketed to less "hard-core" users that philosophy makes sense too.

If 2011-3 lives for 3 generations they'll likely just make a revision 2. And even then that's probably only going to happen if an updated board/chipset is needed.

EDIT: Never mind that Haswell-E already has a de facto "Black Edition" in its X99-E WS board, at least in styling.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Basically for every 16 PCIe lanes you have 1 full speed PCIe x16 slot. So 20 lanes would be something like [email protected], [email protected]/x8, [email protected]/x8/x4. That applies to any card in the slot though, so if you're running a gfx card and a raid card then you're still only getting the x8/x8 speeds because two slots are occupied (from what I understand). I concur that we shouldn't expect a Black Edition for a non-enthusiast socket. The Expanded edition chip, on the other hand, would likely be a different story.
> What Max said makes plenty of sense since no one said anything about Skylake-E. Basically if the socket doesn't fall into the "X" category then it likely won't be getting a black edition and since those tiny sockets are marketed to less "hard-core" users that philosophy makes sense too.
> 
> If 2011-3 lives for 3 generations they'll likely just make a revision 2. And even then that's probably only going to happen if an updated board/chipset is needed.
> 
> EDIT: Never mind that Haswell-E already has a de facto "Black Edition" in its X99-E WS board, at least in styling.


Well I guess however the thing is seeing how were speaking about a rampage board and in a rampage x79 owners club I kinda figured that "E" was implied once you go "E" you never go back. I will specify in the future. Especially when I said I would go black to black why would I leave my current E setup for a gimped desktop board I wouldn't even with skylake being a stronger CPU core for core the lack of cores and PCI lanes and every thing would make that a downgrade IMO.

And ya that does look like a black edition with its color scheme however Black editions have historically been the refresh edition with more features and fixes to issues of its predecessor. (I know i said history about the whole 2 boards lol)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Ha I did it again. I thought I posted this but didn't. It was still sitting here when I reopened this page. Either way SpecTRe-X answered some of the questions in my reply to cyberloc which is:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Umm so what you think there just going to skip skylake E lol? Or my apologies I should have said broadwell before as the rampage 5 black will be for that CPU. As it is the 2011-3 refresh which is when black boards come out so that will be 2016.
> 
> However there will be a skylake E and it will have a rampage board so your 1151 statement doesn't make any sence. Not to say that your wrong there may or may not be a black edition for skylake E it defiantly won't come out with the skylake E launch unless Intel decides to keep 2011-3 for 3 generations then idk Asus will have to make a white edition on gen 3 lol.


Is this confirmed?

I didn't say there wouldn't be a Rampage board for Skylake I just said I wasn't sure they would make one. So far ASUS has only made black ed boards for the X79 and X99 boards (as far as I can tell) so I think they only do the black ed for enthusiast chips (correct me if I am wrong please).

Skylake looks really impressive so far and I hope it lives up to everything. Hopefully when they come out with a skylake E I will be able to get into that, but only if they support 40 lanes (or more) of PCIe like the X79 and X99 boards do.
I honestly think this board will do me good for a few years as long as it holds up during my OC attempts.........


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Ha I did it again. I thought I posted this but didn't. It was still sitting here when I reopened this page. Either way SpecTRe-X answered some of the questions in my reply to cyberloc which is:
> Is this confirmed?
> 
> I didn't say there wouldn't be a Rampage board for Skylake I just said I wasn't sure they would make one. So far ASUS has only made black ed boards for the X79 and X99 boards (as far as I can tell) so I think they only do the black ed for enthusiast chips (correct me if I am wrong please).
> 
> Skylake looks really impressive so far and I hope it lives up to everything. Hopefully when they come out with a skylake E I will be able to get into that, but only if they support 40 lanes (or more) of PCIe like the X79 and X99 boards do.
> I honestly think this board will do me good for a few years as long as it holds up during my OC attempts.........


There is no Black edition board for x99 yet. There is a black ed board for x58 and x79 black edition board come during the CPU refresh as the chipset will usually get 2 sets of CPUs such as Sandy Bridge E and Ivy Bridge E. Thus following suit when we get Broadwell E CPUs very few boards come with it (most makers don't make new boards) If Asus does make a new board and the have the last 2 times that is the Rampage Black edition. The first rampage comes when the chipset does, Th e black is the refresh with new features aimed at the new CPU ect.

To clarify again I agree there will not be a 1151 Rampage board. 1151 was not to what we were refering I do not use those boards at all for anything. We are in a E series thread so to me the E was implied next time I will specify
In the rest of this thread when speaking of cpu names I mean E I don't use regular desktop proccesors except for cheap projects even then rarely. I don't not refer to or care about not E chips or boards, so even If I don't say E I'm still talking about it.

The same is said about Skylake E when skylake comes it will sport the rampage 6 extreme and with its refresh will come the Black.

I'm confused about what your asking is confirmed? Are you asking if skylake E is confirmed? Are you asking if a Rampage black is confirmed for broadwell or skylake?

The answer to these is techinacaly no. However if you realize that E series lines are big money makers for Intel (and the Xeon line uses them so they have to make them) and the Rampage is one of the best selling boards in the E market its pretty safe to bet there will be E series and rampage for the foreseeable future. Its assume safe to assume that do to corporate greed selling people one board over the life of a chipset isn't as favorable as 2. (which is why these black boards started) That Black boards are here to stay. But again the answer is no I don't not work for either of these companies and they don't talk about that kind if stuff this far in advance (don't want to hurt sales of current boards) but common sense and business knowledge should direct that answer for you.

You don't really need something like this to be "Confirmed" there in business to make money and they will continue to do the same thing if it is proving profitable. There is proven to be a whole heap of money in the black board refresh. I mean think about it they take a board they already produce change a few things throw some flashy paint on it and sell it again as something new. They now sell tons of this board even to people who just 1 year before bought the board this one originated from. Versus selling 1 board every 2 years (the life of the chipset) while Intel rakes in profits from those people with the new CPUs. If they didn't make the Black board they would be bad business men because they are a very smart and old business trick.

TLDR version. As long as they continue to make money from them Asus will continue to produce "Black Boards" as of rampage 4 black edition they sold a lot of boards they made money. There will defiantly be a Rampage 5 Black Edition. If that board sells well there will be a R6BE and it will continue until it stop being profitable.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I suppose you could imply that though that's reading more into someone's post than I typically care to do just in case I'm reading something they didn't intend on conveying.

The only way I would really move from Ivy-E to Skylake-E is if it offered 3 or 4 full speed PCIe x16 slots and I wanted to upgrade my graphics card set. I already have more USB3 ports than devices (and I don't buy USB devices often), I already have more SATA 3/6 ports than I have drives (and I don't buy drives often), and I already spent a fair amount of money on a great board and chip combo.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



What I like to do is get the best board and a really strong CPU to hold me over a while. I held onto my q6600/780i setup until the price of the 9650 came down and bought one of those to hold me over longer.


I was on lga775 for close to 5 years iirc and will likely stay on 2011 until something comes along that's too good to skip or my gfx needs dictate I upgrade. That's just me though as my practical side has overtaken my bleeding edge enthusiast side lol.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I suppose you could imply that though that's reading more into someone's post than I typically care to do just in case I'm reading something they didn't intend on conveying.
> 
> The only way I would really move from Ivy-E to Skylake-E is if it offered 3 or 4 full speed PCIe x16 slots and I wanted to upgrade my graphics card set. I already have more USB3 ports than devices (and I don't buy USB devices often), I already have more SATA 3/6 ports than I have drives (and I don't buy drives often), and I already spent a fair amount of money on a great board and chip combo.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> What I like to do is get the best board and a really strong CPU to hold me over a while. I held onto my q6600/780i setup until the price of the 9650 came down and bought one of those to hold me over longer.
> 
> 
> I was on lga775 for close to 5 years iirc and will likely stay on 2011 until something comes along that's too good to skip or my gfx needs dictate I upgrade. That's just me though as my practical side has overtaken my bleeding edge enthusiast side lol.


I hear you - keeping up with the bleeding edge of tech can be very expensive. However, I'm looking forward to moving to Skylake-e from IB-e, mostly for the DDR4 upgrade -- not to mention native USB3, more SATA6 ports, and hopefully better overclocking (and maybe more cores?); although all of that is more about the chipset than the chip itself. X79 was outdated already by the time IB-e came out, those of us who bought in to IB-e may not have made the best investment. lol Although, I was on X58 for the better part of 4 years, so it's entirely possible I could stick with X79 just as long since I, at least, got a good chip.


----------



## ledzepp3

My BE is finally on the way back







I'm actually kind of glad that Asus' RMA center is in Indiana, because I live in Illinois which means the shipping even with UPS is like $10


----------



## Madmaxneo

Indiana, really? I live in NW Indiana. I wonder how close the ASUS RMA center is from me.......
How close ledzepp3 do you live to NW Indiana?

Has anyone here ever used or thought of using the Corsair Link Commander Mini? It offers fan and LED control through software and comes with 4 temperature sensors that would work great with this boards 4 temp headers.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oh that's so funny on so many levels.....lol...
> The problem is it will be for socket 1151, of which I am not sure ASUS will develop a Rampage board for it. It would be nice though. What I think is interesting is the uniDIMM capabilities for either DDR3 or DDR4 DIMMS along with PCIe 4. But what I could not find is how many PCIe lanes it will support. On the Wiki it says they will support up to 20 PCIe lanes which will translate to a total of what? It states the current limit is 8 PCIe lanes in socket 1150 so I am not sure what that will mean for total available in terms of GPU usage.
> 
> Anyone understand enough of that to care to explain?
> 
> Bruce


Yeah thats funny, ill be keeping my black until another one comes out....

My build just picked up a couple of sponsors and im hoping for some support from my fellow black friends!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I hear you - keeping up with the bleeding edge of tech can be very expensive. However, I'm looking forward to moving to Skylake-e from IB-e, mostly for the DDR4 upgrade -- not to mention native USB3, more SATA6 ports, and hopefully better overclocking (and maybe more cores?); although all of that is more about the chipset than the chip itself. X79 was outdated already by the time IB-e came out, those of us who bought in to IB-e may not have made the best investment. lol Although, I was on X58 for the better part of 4 years, so it's entirely possible I could stick with X79 just as long since I, at least, got a good chip.


More cores is likely a definite, likely more 8-core offerings or some 12s since haswell-e already offered the initial 8-core non-xeon chips.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Indiana, really? I live in NW Indiana. I wonder how close the ASUS RMA center is from me.......
> How close ledzepp3 do you live to NW Indiana?
> 
> Has anyone here ever used or thought of using the Corsair Link Commander Mini? It offers fan and LED control through software and comes with 4 temperature sensors that would work great with this boards 4 temp headers.


First time I've seen it. It looks ok but wouldn't work for rigs like mine unless you doubled up I think. My pumps are the loudest thing in my system anyway unless the fans are at full.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Indiana, really? I live in NW Indiana. I wonder how close the ASUS RMA center is from me.......
> How close ledzepp3 do you live to NW Indiana?
> 
> Has anyone here ever used or thought of using the Corsair Link Commander Mini? It offers fan and LED control through software and comes with 4 temperature sensors that would work great with this boards 4 temp headers.


yes i have heard of it, and i hear nothing but horror about corsair link.

they make this epic thing called a aquaero and only thing i will buy, air or water build !

expensive yes....

awesome yes.
never have to worry about it .... yes


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

G'Day Mates!

Now my ordered E22 Black Cable Combs are on the way from CaseKing in Germany, so the finish line is not so far fetched in the way to end the project of my new gaming rig. The only thing left to wait for, as the crowning touch, is the ASUS ROG ENTHUSIAST 3-WAY SLI BRIDGE to enter the market. But that is something that easily be attached later on and would not influence my goal to complete the computer project.

Sadly I'm still not in the RIBE Owners List, but hopefully that will come some day as well.

Until next time, take care and bee good mates.

Regards, WOLF.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Indiana, really? I live in NW Indiana. I wonder how close the ASUS RMA center is from me.......
> How close ledzepp3 do you live to NW Indiana?
> 
> Has anyone here ever used or thought of using the Corsair Link Commander Mini? It offers fan and LED control through software and comes with 4 temperature sensors that would work great with this boards 4 temp headers.


I live in Champaign which is in the very eastern part of Illinois. And my new board is here... IT WORKS


----------



## Metatr0n

High guys!

I'm pretty much stuck with my overclocking on the R4BE.

In Manual Mode I got a stable OC of synced 4.5 GHz @ 1.285 V (In AIDA64 it's between 1.294 V and 1.312 V)
I'm pretty much satisfied with the overall power-draw and temperatures.

Here are my settings:

CPU Power Management Configuration
Enhanced Intel Speed Step Technology.............Enabled
Turbo Mode..................................................Enabled
CPU C states................................................Enabled
CPU C1E......................................................Enabled
CPU C3 Report..............................................Disabled
CPU C6 Report..............................................Enabled
CPU C7 report...............................................Disabled
Package C State Limit....................................Auto

OC
Ai Overclock Tuner.........................................Manual
CPU Level UP.................................................Disabled
BCLK Frequency.............................................100.000
CPU Strap.....................................................100 MHz
ClockGen Full Reset.........................................Enabled
CPU Core Ratio...............................................Sync All Cores
1-Core Ratio Limit...........................................45
2-Core Ratio Limit...........................................45
3-Core Ratio Limit...........................................45
4-Core Ratio Limit...........................................45
5-Core Ratio Limit...........................................45
6-Core Ratio Limit...........................................45
Internal PLL Overvoltage..................................Enabled
CPU ClockGen Filter.........................................Enabled
DRAM Frequency.............................................DDR3-2133 MHz
Xtreme Tweaking............................................Enabled
EPU Power Saving Mode...................................Enabled
EPU Settings.................................................Auto
Extreme OV...................................................Disabled
BCLK Skew....................................................Auto
CPU VCORE Voltage........................................Manual Mode
CPU VCORE Manual Voltage..............................1.285
VTT CPU Voltage............................................1.10000
2nd VTTCPU Voltage.......................................1.08404
CPU VCCSA Voltage........................................Manual Mode
CPU VCCSA Manual Voltage..............................1.120
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB)................................1.650
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD)................................1.650
CPU PLL Voltage.............................................1.80000
PCH 1.1v Voltage............................................Auto
Initial PLL Termination Voltage...........................Auto
Eventual PLL Termination Voltage.......................Auto
VTT DDR Voltage (CHA, CHB).............................Auto
VTT DDR Voltage (CHC, CHD)............................Auto
CPU PLL Termination........................................Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum......................................Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum.....................................Disabled
BCLK Recovery...............................................Enabled

Digi Power Control
CPU Load-Line Calibration.................................High
CPU Current Capability.....................................140%
CPU Voltage Frequency....................................Manual
CPU Fixed Frequency.......................................300
VRM Over Temperature Protection......................Auto
CPU Power Duty Control...................................T.Probe
Vcore MOS volt. Control...................................Auto
CPU Power Phase Control..................................Extreme (disabled -> CPU Current Capability)
Current Inrush Inertia.......................................Auto
CPU VCORE Boot Up Voltage..............................Auto
VCCSA Load-Line Calibration..............................High
VCCSA Current Capability..................................100%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency....................................300
CPU VCCSA Boot Up Voltage..............................Auto
CPU VTT Switching Freq....................................Auto
CPU VTT Over-Current Protection.......................Auto
DRAM-AB Current Capability...............................100%
DRAM-AB Voltage Frequency..............................Auto
DRAM-AB Power Phase Control............................Standard
DRAM-CD Current Capability...............................100%
DRAM-CD Voltage Frequency..............................Auto
DRAM-CD Power Phase Control............................Standard
PCH 1.1v Switching Freq....................................Auto

CPU Performance Settings
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology..................Enabled
Turbo Mode......................................................Enabled
Power Limit Control............................................Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit...................................Auto
Short Duration Power Limit..................................Auto
Additional turbo Voltage......................................0.004
CPU Current Limit...............................................Auto

Now I wanted to get the same OC on Offset Mode so that my voltages can go lower when in idle but my Vcore is just all over the place.
Only by changing:

CPU VCORE Voltage............................................Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign...............................................+
CPU VCORE Offset Voltage...................................0.005

AIDA64 shows a Vcore of 1.372 V.
By changing Offset Mode Sign to "-" and CPU VCORE Offset Voltage to 0.020 (-0.020 V), my Vcore is 1.354 V but the idle Vcore drops below 0.860 and the system freezes when idling or using small applications like a browser.

So how the hell is it possible to get the load voltage to about 1.294 V in Offset Mode?

Edit:
Forgot to say, this will be a 24/7 clock, I'm not trying to go extreme on it.


----------



## NE0XY

Hi,

So I just ordered a pair of 980's and in order to get the right length of tubing or block and sli bridge between the cards, I wonder what the length is between the PCIe lanes used to 2 way sli? (PCIe slot 1 & 3)

Thanks and sorry if this has been said before


----------



## SpecTRe-X

@Metatr0n I don't think it will go to teh lowest possible voltage in offset due to the way offset actually works. It's giving itself the power it thinks it needs and you can't really control that as far as I know unless you go to manually controlled voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> So I just ordered a pair of 980's and in order to get the right length of tubing or block and sli bridge between the cards, I wonder what the length is between the PCIe lanes used to 2 way sli? (PCIe slot 1 & 3)
> 
> Thanks and sorry if this has been said before


You want one of these. I believe it also comes in silver/nickel color. If you measure from the bottom of the PCB of the first card to the top of the second card's PCB you'll have a decent idea of length.


----------



## Metatr0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> @Metatr0n I don't think it will go to teh lowest possible voltage in offset due to the way offset actually works. It's giving itself the power it thinks it needs and you can't really control that as far as I know unless you go to manually controlled voltage.


Damn that sucks. On my old i5 2500k + ASRock Z77 Pro4 I got 4.5 GHz on 1.220 V by using Offset. Well I guess I have to use the fixed Vcore of 1.285 then. Under load the draw is 12 Watts lower and the load temps are ~5°C lower than on the 1.372 V on Offset.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> @Metatr0n I don't think it will go to teh lowest possible voltage in offset due to the way offset actually works. It's giving itself the power it thinks it needs and you can't really control that as far as I know unless you go to manually controlled voltage.
> You want one of these. I believe it also comes in silver/nickel color. If you measure from the bottom of the PCB of the first card to the top of the second card's PCB you'll have a decent idea of length.


Thank you, I don't have the cards yet and I have a watercooling loop already running so I can't measure =( I was hoping someone had the measurements, I didn't find it in the manual.
I don't know if the 2 way EVGA sli bridge (long version 60mm) is long enough the fit both cards, or if I should get the 3 way (80mm) instead.

Same for the SLI connector fittings, will the fitting with a max length of 69mm be enough?

Thanks


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> Damn that sucks. On my old i5 2500k + ASRock Z77 Pro4 I got 4.5 GHz on 1.220 V by using Offset. Well I guess I have to use the fixed Vcore of 1.285 then. Under load the draw is 12 Watts lower and the load temps are ~5°C lower than on the 1.372 V on Offset.


Yeah but that's a whole different socket, right. Even then each chip is different on the micro-scale. I could have two 4820Ks at the same clock but they pick different offset voltages. I think the larger question is how often and under how much load does the vcore go to 1.372. If it's only under stressing programs then I wouldn't worry too much. Keep in mind that you'll use less power with the chip in offset than you will running a constant voltage even when idle.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Thank you, I don't have the cards yet and I have a watercooling loop already running so I can't measure =( I was hoping someone had the measurements, I didn't find it in the manual.
> I don't know if the 2 way EVGA sli bridge (long version 60mm) is long enough the fit both cards, or if I should get the 3 way (80mm) instead.
> 
> Same for the SLI connector fittings, will the fitting with a max length of 69mm be enough?
> 
> Thanks


I think it was said before. Let me measure mine and I'll post back with an edit to this post.

EDIT: Ok so the space between my first card and my 3rd (slots 1 & 3) is ~70mm. Now I'm running gtx 470 koolance blocks so my measurement might not be the exact same as yours depending on the blocks you're going with but that should put you in the ball park.


----------



## Metatr0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Yeah but that's a whole different socket, right. Even then each chip is different on the micro-scale. I could have two 4820Ks at the same clock but they pick different offset voltages. I think the larger question is how often and under how much load does the vcore go to 1.372. If it's only under stressing programs then I wouldn't worry too much. Keep in mind that you'll use less power with the chip in offset than you will running a constant voltage even when idle.


Yeah, I'll have to do long-term tests on both settings, I'm glad that AIDA64 is keeping track of the total average, which is particularly important since my rig is folding over night. I'll pick the one with the lower power-draw and lower average temps.

I'll be back to this topic when I have the data.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> Yeah, I'll have to do long-term tests on both settings, I'm glad that AIDA64 is keeping track of the total average, which is particularly important since my rig is folding over night. I'll pick the one with the lower power-draw and lower average temps.
> 
> I'll be back to this topic when I have the data.


Ah, I see. If you're going to be folding then perhaps it may be best to reboot and switch to manual vcore then load in and start the overnight folding session and then switch back to offset when you're going to be personally using it. It's extra work but would likely be the most cost efficient in terms of power usage.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I think it was said before. Let me measure mine and I'll post back with an edit to this post.
> 
> EDIT: Ok so the space between my first card and my 3rd (slots 1 & 3) is ~70mm. Now I'm running gtx 470 koolance blocks so my measurement might not be the exact same as yours depending on the blocks you're going with but that should put you in the ball park.


Thank you very much, I'll either get an EK block, or the EK EVGA block, or the Swiftech Komodo one =)

Thank you very much =)


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Thank you very much, I'll either get an EK block, or the EK EVGA block, or the Swiftech Komodo one =)
> 
> Thank you very much =)


Any time







. The spacing between the komodo terminations will be shorter because the termination junction is thicker than on my blocks. While that might be better at the moment though it may make expanding to 3 cards later harder due to less space to connect them. The EK block (couldn't find the evga one you mention) also looks to be slightly thicker than mine so your 68mm connector should likely work out ok.

If it were me I'd likely go with the EK block just from what I've heard about multi-card (3 and 4 way SLI/crossfire) with the komodo series. Even if you're not planning on adding more cards later it's always nice to not have to worry about it; but that's me.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Any time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The spacing between the komodo terminations will be shorter because the termination junction is thicker than on my blocks. While that might be better at the moment though it may make expanding to 3 cards later harder due to less space to connect them. The EK block (couldn't find the evga one you mention) also looks to be slightly thicker than mine so your 68mm connector should likely work out ok.
> 
> If it were me I'd likely go with the EK block just from what I've heard about multi-card (3 and 4 way SLI/crossfire) with the komodo series. Even if you're not planning on adding more cards later it's always nice to not have to worry about it; but that's me.


Thanks,

Here's the EK/EVGA block: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=400-CU-G980-B1

I'm either doing 2 of these with either a fitting or acrylic tube, (rest of build is acrylic tube) or get the regular EK ones with a terminal. I can't decide what'll look best =P

Edit: Anyway, that's a discussion for another thread =P I just wanted to know the measurements =)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=TWP=WOLF*
> 
> G'Day Mates!
> 
> Now my ordered E22 Black Cable Combs are on the way from CaseKing in Germany, so the finish line is not so far fetched in the way to end the project of my new gaming rig. The only thing left to wait for, as the crowning touch, is the ASUS ROG ENTHUSIAST 3-WAY SLI BRIDGE to enter the market. But that is something that easily be attached later on and would not influence my goal to complete the computer project.
> 
> Sadly I'm still not in the RIBE Owners List, but hopefully that will come some day as well.
> 
> Until next time, take care and bee good mates.
> 
> Regards, WOLF.


I'm not on the list of RIVBE owners just yet either. Is the owner of this thread is still around?.
But I need a few of those cable combs for the fan wires from the H240-X radiator, but they might not fit those tiny fan wires.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I live in Champaign which is in the very eastern part of Illinois. And my new board is here... IT WORKS


That's great to hear!
How did the Bios update go?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Here's the EK/EVGA block: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=400-CU-G980-B1
> 
> I'm either doing 2 of these with either a fitting or acrylic tube, (rest of build is acrylic tube) or get the regular EK ones with a terminal. I can't decide what'll look best =P
> 
> Edit: Anyway, that's a discussion for another thread =P I just wanted to know the measurements =)


Oh, I thought it was a stand alone option. Hard tube would probably look more uniform but the EK connector likely easier to work with. I think as long as it's somehow related to the board we're on topic. So build discussion should be fine.

@Wolf: I don't think the list is updated anymore.

@LunaP Is the owners list for this club still being updated?


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

Dear Madmaxneo!

Thank you for your answer and comfort regarding RIVBE.

Concerning the E22 Black Cable Combs, 3mm gap is the smallest ones and goes by the name "small" as well. E22 Cable Combs, small 3mm are on the brink to be little big for my Red Corsair Professional Series Individually Sleeved DC Modular Cable Kit Type 3 (Generation 2) (CP-8920049), but it works.

My suggestion mate, is to sleeve the fan wires from the H240-X radiator and by that get them to be little coarser with the advantage that you might be able to use the E22 Small (3mm) Cable Combs for your purposes. Its not that hard to Sleeve & Heat-shrink tubing cables as long as you are using the proper tools.

WOLF´s General Recommendation - If you are the one that are in to E22 Cable Combs for Individually Sleeved cables but are unsure about the ones (slots & size) that serve your specific needs. Well then I recommend you to go my way by purchasing a bunch of E22 24-Slot Cable Combs in the coulore and size of gaps of your needs. Then you just cut and polish them in the way to fit the intended purposes of yours. In this way you do not need to get involved in a time consuming survey of which one to choose in the way of size, slots and numbers. But, that's only my recommendation, of course you do as you please.

With all respect, I took the liberty to share some nice cable sleeving guides in the way to support any potential projects of yours.

YouTube - 



.
YouTube - 



.
YouTube - 



.

YouTube - 



.

Wish you all the best of luck Mates!



Regards, WOLF.

P.S Here is a newly taken picture (as below) of my 2 gaming computers (still in the process of some cabling work) in case of any interests of yours. I'm sorry for the lack of quality since my photographic hardware are limited. D.S.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I'm not on the list of RIVBE owners just yet either. Is the owner of this thread is still around?.
> But I need a few of those cable combs for the fan wires from the H240-X radiator, but they might not fit those tiny fan wires.
> That's great to hear!
> How did the Bios update go?


AFAIK he hasn't been around I'm also not on the list and I asked to be added over 6 months ago so ya don't think it will happen anytime soon


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> AFAIK he hasn't been around I'm also not on the list and I asked to be added over 6 months ago so ya don't think it will happen anytime soon


Well I asked to join this list back in July of last year.....lol. So yeah I understand.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well I asked to join this list back in July of last year.....lol. So yeah I understand.


Ya that's about when I asked as well. Sucks, I remeber some talk about someone else taking over the thread any idea what happened with that.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

It would appear as if it fell threw.

I wouldn't mind taking over (I think), as I've done admin and mod work on another forum before, though I'd have to look around for a list or outline of expected duties before deciding definitively.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> It would appear as if it fell threw.
> 
> I wouldn't mind taking over (I think), as I've done admin and mod work on another forum before, though I'd have to look around for a list or outline of expected duties before deciding definitively.


I don't think there are any duties associated with this thread other than normal moderation.

Has anyone tried PMing the person who started this thread?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I tagged him/her/it/they earlier so they should be notified if they have notifications enabled. As far as regular moderation goes I can certainly handle that. I wasn't able to find any sticky or moderated post detailing rules to running a club though, so....


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hopefully him/her/it/they will respond.

It would be cool if we can get this fixed.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well I asked to join this list back in July of last year.....lol. So yeah I understand.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Ya that's about when I asked as well. Sucks, I remeber some talk about someone else taking over the thread any idea what happened with that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I don't think there are any duties associated with this thread other than normal moderation.
> 
> Has anyone tried PMing the person who started this thread?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hopefully him/her/it/they will respond.
> 
> It would be cool if we can get this fixed.


Don't have to be on the list to be a part of this thread and enjoy it!! It. Is just a name on a list!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Don't have to be on the list to be a part of this thread and enjoy it!! It. Is just a name on a list!!!


Hey I wanna feel important and then there is the bragging rights!.....lol.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hey I wanna feel important and then there is the bragging rights!.....lol.


Lol too late to game for bragging on this board!! But we all help one another!!!


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Lol too late to game for bragging on this board!! But we all help one another!!!


Well we weren't too late to the game when we asked to be on the list lol. There's also other reasons to have an active thread lead like updated info in the op ect.


----------



## wjturner78

it would be nice to be on the list.... anyone know how i can add to my sig?
delete figured it out


----------



## V3teran

Anybody need any help then please let me know and i will do my best to help out!


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hey I wanna feel important and then there is the bragging rights!.....lol.


Amen to that mate!










seross69 - I'm 60 years old an never take those kind of things too seriously, but as Madmaxneo so nicely express it, why not jump on the train and tag along









Regarding bragging rights, I got a newly taken picture on my 2 ASUS ROG gaming computers together (would not be surprised if I post it in here before considering my old age and decreasing memory capacity).







In case of that, here is the rerun mates!







By that way, tomorrow I will go to the post office and collect my order of E22 Black 24-Slot Cable Combs and finish my long term computer project (as it become do to the lack of material).





Regards, WOLF.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=TWP=WOLF*
> 
> Amen to that mate!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seross69 - I'm 60 years old an never take those kind of things too seriously, but as Madmaxneo so nicely express it, why not jump on the train and tag along
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding bragging rights, I got a newly taken picture on my 2 ASUS ROG gaming computers together (would not be surprised if I post it in here before considering my old age and decreasing memory capacity).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case of that, here is the rerun mates!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By that way, tomorrow I will go to the post office and collect my order of E22 Black 24-Slot Cable Combs and finish my long term computer project (as it become do to the lack of material).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards, WOLF.


Please tell me your going to add a custom loop to that 900d lol that should seriously be a crime







.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Please tell me your going to add a custom loop to that 900d lol that should seriously be a crime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Really not enough room in a 900d to have a good custom loop!!!


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

G'Day Mates!

There is not going to be any more then what you see in the picture of the 900D, except for some E22 Black Cable Combs in connection with the completion of the wiring which remains to be done before I plug it up for software installations and some serious gaming. As I probably mention before I intend as well to get the ASUS ROG ENTHUSIAST 3-WAY SLI BRIDGE when it enter the market here in Sweden. But that's all as far as I know for now, but in the extension I might go for the presumably upcoming ASUS ROG MATRIX GTX 980 Ti PLATINUM EDITION graphic cards x 2 in SLI (NVIDIA Maxwell GM200-400 GPU). But that has to be seen later on when I taking part of some reviews in the near future (I hope).



Regards, WOLF.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Nice looking set of rigs Wolf!


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

Dear Madmaxneo.

Thank you so much for that. I wish I had more resources so I could design and construct my own computer cases etc.

I have always been that kind of a stubborn person that see things out of the box and work hard to developed my ideas and achieve my goals.

But the way things are with my limited resources I have to be very grateful for what I have accomplished today.

Again, thank you Madmaxneo!

Best Regards, WOLF.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Really not enough room in a 900d to have a good custom loop!!!


There is even room for a good custom loop in a 800D


----------



## Mega Man

I would argue. How many rads are in that loop


----------



## Dwofzz

Well It depends on how you see it, I'm running 3 Way sli GTX 780 classified 1137/6408 MHz and a 3930k 4.6 GHz 1.36v in a 800D and everything is cooled by one single 480 Rad with push pull and temps never goes above 55 c GPU/ 66c CPU when I push it really hard!


----------



## Mega Man

But dat noise....

( you may not know my humor I r poking you with jokes )


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> But dat noise....
> 
> ( you may not know my humor I r poking you with jokes )


Haha I got it







But to be clear it isn't noisier than the G2 1300w psu I'm running so it's not like a fighter jet x)


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Really not enough room in a 900d to have a good custom loop!!!


I actually have to agree. I personally have reached the limits of my 900d. I'm now considering getting a smh10. I have a 420 a 480 and 2 240s and that's it she is full however I want more







. With a smh 10 I can run a 420 and 3 560s and then after that when I have to go external rad to add more at least I know there not much more else I can do.


----------



## ledzepp3

My board finally works! I got my CPU up higher than before on pretty much the same voltages as before


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=TWP=WOLF*
> 
> Dear Madmaxneo.
> 
> Thank you so much for that. I wish I had more resources so I could design and construct my own computer cases etc.
> 
> I have always been that kind of a stubborn person that see things out of the box and work hard to developed my ideas and achieve my goals.
> 
> But the way things are with my limited resources I have to be very grateful for what I have accomplished today.
> 
> Again, thank you Madmaxneo!
> 
> Best Regards, WOLF.


Well you have better resources than I do. I have a pretty good set up but one thing that is currently holding me back, is my GTX 750Ti video card. Hopefully soon enough I will be able to get the new 980!

I also like to fiddle with things and change them around some. Just yesterday I modded my desk! I had to raise it up a few inches so my Phantom 820 case would fit under it... I have a couple of 1x2 pieces of wood that I cut to size, sanded, painted, and coated them with some glossy polyurethane. There is one under each side of the desk. I am currently wondering if it would be possible to change the front door on the case so it slides out instead of opening on hinges (I can't open it all the way unless I turn the PC). I also want to add hinge mounts to the side doors on my case, which is easier to do than what I want to do on the front door.... How I love my Dremel tool!


----------



## Metatr0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would argue. How many rads are in that loop


My Obsidian in my signature is a 800D with a 480x45mm radiator, too and my temps are awesome. But adding my second GPU will exceed it's limits, that's why I want to move into a CaseLabs SMA8.
But with the euro dropping and dropping I can forget about that case... It's already 100 euros more expensive than in january...


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> My Obsidian in my signature is a 800D with a 480x45mm radiator, too and my temps are awesome. But adding my second GPU will exceed it's limits, that's why I want to move into a CaseLabs SMA8.
> But with the euro dropping and dropping I can forget about that case... It's already 100 euros more expensive than in january...


And that's where we say that a 800d can't hold a good loop. Even with a 900d a good loop is hard to do lol. But that's to each there own some people think that 10c delta is a "good loop" personally I need 5c delta or less and quiet to call it a good loop.

What's your CPU at that you got it at 66c (is that running it max like IBT). With all my rads my CPU hits 75 in IBT. However my 4820k is also at 1.44vcore

I looked at your rig summary is it still at 4ghz 1.31v that may be why its so cold because your idle temp is also 34c mine is 29-30c with a room temp of 75f.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> And that's where we say that a 800d can't hold a good loop. Even with a 900d a good loop is hard to do lol. But that's to each there own some people think that 10c delta is a "good loop" personally I need 5c delta or less and quiet to call it a good loop.
> 
> What's your CPU at that you got it at 66c (is that running it max like IBT). With all my rads my CPU hits 75 in IBT. However my 4820k is also at 1.44vcore
> 
> I looked at your rig summary is it still at 4ghz 1.31v that may be why its so cold because your idle temp is also 34c mine is 29-30c with a room temp of 75f.


Like I said everything comes down to what you think is a " good loop " I men I'm fine if my gpus hit 55 degrees and the cpu top out at 66c. Cus the " water" temp never exceed 42c and thats plenty fine.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Like I said everything comes down to what you think is a " good loop " I men I'm fine if my gpus hit 55 degrees and the cpu top out at 66c. Cus the " water" temp never exceed 42c and thats plenty fine.


Oh I agree 100% and 66c is a very good CPU temp if that's a IBT temp. However the clocks are kinda low for my taste esp for a 3930.

However the whole reason for watercooling is to get better than air temps which in your case it doesn't seem like you really are maybe you are but it doesn't seem like it to me.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well you have better resources than I do. I have a pretty good set up but one thing that is currently holding me back, is my GTX 750Ti video card. Hopefully soon enough I will be able to get the new 980!
> 
> I also like to fiddle with things and change them around some. Just yesterday I modded my desk! I had to raise it up a few inches so my Phantom 820 case would fit under it... I have a couple of 1x2 pieces of wood that I cut to size, sanded, painted, and coated them with some glossy polyurethane. There is one under each side of the desk. I am currently wondering if it would be possible to change the front door on the case so it slides out instead of opening on hinges (I can't open it all the way unless I turn the PC). I also want to add hinge mounts to the side doors on my case, which is easier to do than what I want to do on the front door.... How I love my Dremel tool!


I suggest using some magnets instead of hinges. I have the side panels on my STH10 held in place with magnets and I love it, I despise those darn ball and socket retention clips that CaseLabs uses... Ugh!

If you are concerned about damaging equipment with magnets, it simply cannot happen unless you use an industrial degaussing machine, or an electromagnet powerful enough to lift to a car...


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Oh I agree 100% and 66c is a very good CPU temp if that's a IBT temp. However the clocks are kinda low for my taste esp for a 3930.
> 
> However the whole reason for watercooling is to get better than air temps which in your case it doesn't seem like you really are maybe you are but it doesn't seem like it to me.


Well I'm running 4.6 GHz as a 24/7. I think you are mixing me with someone else


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Well I'm running 4.6 GHz as a 24/7. I think you are mixing me with someone else


Yes I am







what CPU and again is that a Intel Burn Test load temp or just like gaming load temp?

And sorry for the mixup was on my phone







.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Yes I am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what CPU and again is that a Intel Burn Test load temp or just like gaming load temp?
> 
> And sorry for the mixup was on my phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I don't use IBT, The 66c max is from Prime95 + Furmark 30 min. I use a 3960x at 4.6 GHz at 1.34 - 1.36v


----------



## Dantrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Insert driver disk that came the board, then right click the yellow question marked line and let it browse automatically.
> 
> Something like that at least.


Thanks friskiest, the 1st item under the driver tab of the CD was AMDA00 - Some temp sensors for Win8??? fixed the asterisk problem. It's been so long since I installed Win7 I couldn't remember all the BS items we had to install.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Oh I agree 100% and 66c is a very good CPU temp if that's a IBT temp. However the clocks are kinda low for my taste esp for a 3930.
> 
> *However the whole reason for watercooling is to get better than air temps* which in your case it doesn't seem like you really are maybe you are but it doesn't seem like it to me.


Don't forget quietness too.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I suggest using some magnets instead of hinges. I have the side panels on my STH10 held in place with magnets and I love it, I despise those darn ball and socket retention clips that CaseLabs uses... Ugh!
> 
> If you are concerned about damaging equipment with magnets, it simply cannot happen unless you use an industrial degaussing machine, or an electromagnet powerful enough to lift to a car...


Oh, great idea! No drilling needed








What type of magnets do you use?
I was thinking like these Neodymium Magnets, or did you use something else?

I may have been worried about magnets 10 years ago when I was a little less "edumacated"....


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Don't forget quietness too.


As I stated before my pc isn't noisier than a G2 1300w PSU.
And I don't know what temps I would get if I aircooled my cpu since I've never done it and i'm not planning on do so. But the GPUs did top out at 80 - 85 c under air and now they top at 55 so thats a big difference.
But one thing I do know is that i'm going to upgrade to a bigger case ( Little Devil ) since I want to do some more overclocking.
P.S I just stated that you can cool a pretty beasty machine in a 800D so there shouldn't be a problem in a 900D.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oh, great idea! No drilling needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What type of magnets do you use?
> I was thinking like these Neodymium Magnets, or did you use something else?
> 
> I may have been worried about magnets 10 years ago when I was a little less "edumacated"....


Nope, I used neodymium magnets as well. I also used Plasti-Dip to adhere them to one another, the door and frame, and then to cover them to prevent them from chipping.

Just some tips, when you adhere them to one another, make sure to use a soft set adhesive, not a hard set, like epoxy or super glue... Something like Plasti-Dip or a silicone sealant would work well. I used Plasti-Dip because I had plenty on hand, and it is black.

Additionally, when you stick them together, ensure you coat the whole lot. Otherwise they will likely tear apart easily.

When I say stick them together, magnets stack in terms of strength, so two will be twice as strong as one, I had to stack two for the appropriate strength, which is sufficient to gold my side panel on with internals pushing against it.

I also used some n50's (strength, ranges from n35-n52 I believe), mine are roughly 1/2"x3/4"x1/8", but are VERY powerful for their size,they will easily shatter if allowed to come together at full force without a soft set coating.

I would suggest finding a reputable ebay seller to buy them, as they will be incredibly expensive in the states from a magnet retailer (assuming that is where you are from)...

I paid $10 (shipped) for 10xn52's mentioned above. Since 70% of the neodymium supply is mined in China, they are much, much cheaper to buy from there...

If you have any additional questions, feel free to ask!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Nope, I used neodymium magnets as well. I also used Plasti-Dip to adhere them to one another, the door and frame, and then to cover them to prevent them from chipping.
> 
> Just some tips, when you adhere them to one another, make sure to use a soft set adhesive, not a hard set, like epoxy or super glue... Something like Plasti-Dip or a silicone sealant would work well. I used Plasti-Dip because I had plenty on hand, and it is black.
> 
> Additionally, when you stick them together, ensure you coat the whole lot. Otherwise they will likely tear apart easily.
> 
> When I say stick them together, magnets stack in terms of strength, so two will be twice as strong as one, I had to stack two for the appropriate strength, which is sufficient to gold my side panel on with internals pushing against it.
> 
> I also used some n50's (strength, ranges from n35-n52 I believe), mine are roughly 1/2"x3/4"x1/8", but are VERY powerful for their size,they will easily shatter if allowed to come together at full force without a soft set coating.
> 
> I would suggest finding a reputable ebay seller to buy them, as they will be incredibly expensive in the states from a magnet retailer (assuming that is where you are from)...
> 
> I paid $10 (shipped) for 10xn52's mentioned above. Since 70% of the neodymium supply is mined in China, they are much, much cheaper to buy from there...
> 
> If you have any additional questions, feel free to ask!


The ones I listed are 1/2 x 1/8 inch Disc. Strength grade of n48, They are only 6$ and I can get them in 3 days (Prime member).

Edit: Did you have magnets on both the inside and outside of the case? You have any pics?
I also found some bar magnets, everything I have looked at is N48 or lower so far,


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The ones I listed are 1/2 x 1/8 inch Disc. Strength grade of n48, They are only 6$ and I can get them in 3 days (Prime member).


For that price I would definitely give them a try. However, I would also check ebay, I was able to obtain 200 n48's for $12 shipped. You might be able to get a boatload of them, and just add more points of contact to your panel/case.

I think there were 10 of them in your link, and depending on your case/panel and the weight thereof, you could end up needing a few dozen of them, which can get quite expensive, that being said, if time is more important than money, then those will be great I am sure!

I am a cheap bastardfish, so I am willing to wait a month for things to arrive, despite my failing health. lol


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> As I stated before my pc isn't noisier than a G2 1300w PSU.
> And I don't know what temps I would get if I aircooled my cpu since I've never done it and i'm not planning on do so. But the GPUs did top out at 80 - 85 c under air and now they top at 55 so thats a big difference.
> But one thing I do know is that i'm going to upgrade to a bigger case ( Little Devil ) since I want to do some more overclocking.
> P.S I just stated that you can cool a pretty beasty machine in a 800D so there shouldn't be a problem in a 900D.


Those aren't bad temps at all but not cold enough for me








. Also the minimum recommendation for water cooling rads is a 120 for every component plus 1 120. Your not even reaching the suggested minimum mustless over 9000 levels









The 900d can build a semi beast rig bu that depends how much rad you want like I said my 900d has rads everywhere you can have one and I still want mooooorrrrrrreeeeeeeee lol. My R9 290s highly overclocked never get over 40 and only hit 40 during like firestrike just regular gaming they are at 35-38 and idle at 29-30 (my cpu does too). I dont really use prime but with ibt my cpu hits 75c. With just like gaming it hits like 40-50. However I am also feeding it wayyyy to much voltage lol.

And I know that more rads would be overkill however those temps are with 2 cards I will have 3 maybe 4 when done and thats just the cpu and cards where finished my board will be blocked as well as another card







. Plus this is overkill.net

Also I wouldn't say its quieter than a g2 1300w as a good thing as that thing is a screaming banshee of a psu. Has to be the loudest PSU I have ever personally dealt with, Of course my g2 1600w isnt quiet either but its a hell of alot quieter than that 1300w lol.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=TWP=WOLF*
> 
> G'Day Mates!
> 
> There is not going to be any more then what you see in the picture of the 900D, except for some E22 Black Cable Combs in connection with the completion of the wiring which remains to be done before I plug it up for software installations and some serious gaming. As I probably mention before I intend as well to get the ASUS ROG ENTHUSIAST 3-WAY SLI BRIDGE when it enter the market here in Sweden. But that's all as far as I know for now, but in the extension I might go for the presumably upcoming ASUS ROG MATRIX GTX 980 Ti PLATINUM EDITION graphic cards x 2 in SLI (NVIDIA Maxwell GM200-400 GPU). But that has to be seen later on when I taking part of some reviews in the near future (I hope).
> 
> 
> 
> Regards, WOLF.


Looks Great!!! Congrads!!!

Also Everyone I was sort of playing about the 900D or the 800D it is I just love the Case Lab Cases so you will have to forgive me!!


----------



## seross69

Uh-oh!! double!!


----------



## Mega Man

Don't apologize.

Once you go cl you don't go back


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well you have better resources than I do. I have a pretty good set up but one thing that is currently holding me back, is my GTX 750Ti video card. Hopefully soon enough I will be able to get the new 980!
> 
> I also like to fiddle with things and change them around some. Just yesterday I modded my desk! I had to raise it up a few inches so my Phantom 820 case would fit under it... I have a couple of 1x2 pieces of wood that I cut to size, sanded, painted, and coated them with some glossy polyurethane. There is one under each side of the desk. I am currently wondering if it would be possible to change the front door on the case so it slides out instead of opening on hinges (I can't open it all the way unless I turn the PC). I also want to add hinge mounts to the side doors on my case, which is easier to do than what I want to do on the front door.... How I love my Dremel tool!


Dear Madmaxneo.

Thank you for your answer up on my post as above. Then I like to apology for may little late answer up on your post as above. The reason is that I have so irregular sleep times due to my medical situation.

What I referring to regarding my limited resources is not the financial situation, its the limitation of resources in form of tools, machines as well as contacts and mechanical premises. Before I had everything I would need to be totally independent in form of design and constructions. But do to I moved to another smaller town where it made me a totally stranger, and made me become the opposite in terms of resources.

It is very nice to read about your effort as a handyman by all your ideas and solutions to improve your interests of your computers and its environment. We have that in common, so keep up the good work mate.

Regarding your desk and the position of your NZXT Phantom 820 I recommend you to relocate it (if possible) somewhere out of your desk area and positioned at least 200 millimetre from the floor do to the risk of all the dust that get sucked in to your computer, specially if you have establish a form of sub-pressure in the computer case. Always have more ingoing air then the outgoing in the way to build up a overpressure in the computer case, by that the dust don't slip in via holes and crevices as are common on computer cases. regarding the material for the foundation of your computer I recommend a 200 mm Styrofoam block with some sort of rigid ESD rubber matting glued onto the top and bottom of the Styrofoam foundation block for best isolation and dust prevention. You might even attach some sort of a wooden board to stabilise the surface of the Styrofoam block. Be aware that Styrofoam are known for building up some form of static electricity in some cases. So this is just some of my ideas, there are other ways to salve that issue as well.

Considering what you mention about the front hatch issue on your Phantom 820 case, there is not so much to do except for completely remove the front door and run without it. I don't want to criticise you choice of computer case mate, but I believe that most of the right NZXT computer cases are not so appealing to me with their compact multi-compartment systems as well as the limited potential to grow in too. I love a case that are open and with lots of capability and potential to be grown in too. Since I have a lots of computer hardware technology RSS at my browser I try to follow up on the computer technology development in general. I one of those cases I came over the *ORIGIN GENESIS Pro Series Computer Cases* as I found very interested in the spirit of pioneering technology and its potential of variable opportunities.

Well my friend, hope I didn't boring you with all the yapping of mine.

Wish you all the best and good luck in what ever you takes on.

Best regards, WOLF.


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

Dear seross69.

Thanks for your admiration of my computers in the pictures.

I have admiring the Case Lab Cases for long time, but there is major issue that stop me from purchases costly and heavy products from overseas. The reason is that I live in Sweden and USA are not part of EU as I have to pay a lot just to get it overseas. But there are good sources to get nice computer products from over in EU as well, one of them are CaseKing in Germany.

By the way Mega man, "apologies is a sign of personal strength and dignity" according to my point of view.

Another thing though, now that I have my E22 Black 24-Slot Cable Combs on the table in the living room, I'm out of inspiration to finish my 2 computers. But no worries mates, it will be back to me even if it might take some time.

As always, take good care of you mates!

Regards, WOLF.


----------



## Mega Man

i was j.k.
:x


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i was j.k.
> :x


No worries mate! I know









Regards, WOLF.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Yeah, I would definitely burn out doing all kinds of cable work. I don't have the patience to single sleeve all the psu cable sets I need to run my rig which is why I bought single sleeve extensions


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Yeah, I would definitely burn out doing all kinds of cable work. I don't have the patience to single sleeve all the psu cable sets I need to run my rig which is why I bought single sleeve extensions


Dear SpecTRe-X.

I understand you completely, I once bought the NZXT Black Individually Sleeved Premium Extension Cables for one of my projects back in time.

Keep up the good work mate!

Regards, WOLF.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Yeah, I would definitely burn out doing all kinds of cable work. I don't have the patience to single sleeve all the psu cable sets I need to run my rig which is why I bought single sleeve extensions


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=TWP=WOLF*
> 
> Dear SpecTRe-X.
> 
> I understand you completely, I once bought the NZXT Black Individually Sleeved Premium Extension Cables for one of my projects back in time.
> 
> Keep up the good work mate!
> 
> Regards, WOLF.


Sleeving is relaxing and fun to me!! Good way to sit and relax and spend a couple of hours!! Get such a feeling of accomplishment and feel relaxed after this!!


----------



## =TWP=WOLF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sleeving is relaxing and fun to me!! Good way to sit and relax and spend a couple of hours!! Get such a feeling of accomplishment and feel relaxed after this!!


Amen to that Mate!

Have done that as well.

Regards, WOLF.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Yeah, I would definitely burn out doing all kinds of cable work. I don't have the patience to single sleeve all the psu cable sets I need to run my rig which is why I bought single sleeve extensions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *=TWP=WOLF*
> 
> Dear SpecTRe-X.
> 
> I understand you completely, I once bought the NZXT Black Individually Sleeved Premium Extension Cables for one of my projects back in time.
> 
> Keep up the good work mate!
> 
> Regards, WOLF.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sleeving is relaxing and fun to me!! Good way to sit and relax and spend a couple of hours!! Get such a feeling of accomplishment and feel relaxed after this!!
Click to expand...

agreed but several days ... as i build my own 100% the lepa 24pin is evil, i messed up bad on one... it has a wire that goes back and fourth 5 times between 2 connectors 0.o

side note i do wanna make one with custom sized ribbon cables though ... i think it would look good !


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> agreed but several days ... as i build my own 100% the lepa 24pin is evil, i messed up bad on one... it has a wire that goes back and fourth 5 times between 2 connectors 0.o
> 
> side note i do wanna make one with custom sized ribbon cables though ... i think it would look good !


Don't really like the ribbon cables myself


----------



## Mega Man

i love sleeved, dont get me wrong, i just like the ribbon power cables and i wanna do a build with it


----------



## reev3r

Alright, my temperature display is almost complete, just ran into a programming snafu that has it delayed...

Here are a couple of photos of the unfinished project.





Some features will not be implemented, I have yet to remove them from the display. The temperatures display as follows, current, minimum and maximum temps. The graph is a 10 minute history, and the update speed is about once per 1.5 seconds.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> agreed but several days ... as i build my own 100% the lepa 24pin is evil, i messed up bad on one... it has a wire that goes back and fourth 5 times between 2 connectors 0.o
> 
> side note i do wanna make one with custom sized ribbon cables though ... i think it would look good !


Ya with the cables like that I would use a extension. My evga cables are like that and some are smaller some are larger and there's the resistors (which I'd like to keep in tact) so ya extensions lol.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Alright, my temperature display is almost complete, just ran into a programming snafu that has it delayed...
> 
> Here are a couple of photos of the unfinished project.
> 
> Some features will not be implemented, I have yet to remove them from the display. The temperatures display as follows, current, minimum and maximum temps. The graph is a 10 minute history, and the update speed is about once per 1.5 seconds.


Looking good. What features are you going to be dropping?


----------



## reev3r

The average temp readout on the graph display, as well as maybe needing to drop the auto-ranging feature I had planned to implement. I am struggling with a few other things right now, trying to clean up the code and things. Right now the graph starts out smooth and fast, but as time passes (a few days) without a reset (reboot/power cycle) the graph begins to take several seconds to update.

In addition to that, if left on the graph display for more than a day, a white bar grows at the bottom of the graph, and works its way down and covers the text readout at the bottom.

All in all it works great, just a few programming quirks to eek out.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I know nothing about coding but from my experience through watching Stargate don't you have to write in a subroutine to purge the buffer storing the displayed info in order to eliminate the slow down after being left on for a while? Genius, right?









It does sound like some kind of memory issue though since cycling it restores performance.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> agreed but several days ... as i build my own 100% the lepa 24pin is evil, i messed up bad on one... it has a wire that goes back and fourth 5 times between 2 connectors 0.o
> 
> side note i do wanna make one with custom sized ribbon cables though ... i think it would look good !
> 
> 
> 
> Ya with the cables like that I would use a extension. My evga cables are like that and some are smaller some are larger and there's the resistors (which I'd like to keep in tact) so ya extensions lol.
Click to expand...

i think you mean capacitors ?

easy enough to redo, also not really needed


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I know nothing about coding but from my experience through watching Stargate don't you have to write in a subroutine to purge the buffer storing the displayed info in order to eliminate the slow down after being left on for a while? Genius, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It does sound like some kind of memory issue though since cycling it restores performance.


Although an overly technical way of explaining it, more or less... lol

Basically the library (think driver) I am using has a command to clear the display, that doesn't fix it, which means it is one of three possible things, either the SoC is not powerful enough, the on board memory is getting hit too hard, or the micro SD card is not transferring fast enough...

The crappy part, is that I do not have sufficient knowledge of two of those, and the third I didn't program, I had someone else do it, so it's a bit of a struggle. I haven't been able to get a hold of him the last few days, so hopefully he responds soon so I can sort it out.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Although an overly technical way of explaining it, more or less... lol
> 
> Basically the library (think driver) I am using has a command to clear the display, that doesn't fix it, which means it is one of three possible things, either the SoC is not powerful enough, the on board memory is getting hit too hard, or the micro SD card is not transferring fast enough...
> 
> The crappy part, is that I do not have sufficient knowledge of two of those, and the third I didn't program, I had someone else do it, so it's a bit of a struggle. I haven't been able to get a hold of him the last few days, so hopefully he responds soon so I can sort it out.


I would think swapping the sd for a faster class would be easy, or is it fixed? I would also imagine that if the SoC were weak then the power-on duration wouldn't matter. Plus, wiping the display wouldn't wipe the memory too would it? I'd assume that the stored data is still there but is simply no longer displayed (like alt + tab'ing out of a full screen program in windows, you're not seeing it anymore but it is still running and occupying system ram).


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I would think swapping the sd for a faster class would be easy, or is it fixed? I would also imagine that if the SoC were weak then the power-on duration wouldn't matter. Plus, wiping the display wouldn't wipe the memory too would it? I'd assume that the stored data is still there but is simply no longer displayed (like alt + tab'ing out of a full screen program in windows, you're not seeing it anymore but it is still running and occupying system ram).


I have considered these things, but I simply do not have adequate knowledge to know.

The display dies have its own memory, so when you wipe it, no it doesn't not clear all device memory..

As for the SD card, I am confident that the SD card is faster than any data transfer rate on the entire device (Arduino), so I doubt that is the issue.

Ultimately I believe that somewhere there is something in the programming causing it, but I am not certain where.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Well get proof reading so I can buy one of these already will you!


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think you mean capacitors ?
> 
> easy enough to redo, also not really needed


I know but I still want them







. They are there for a reason what that is idk tbh. But I have a few ideas there either decoupling caps or low pass filters. Either of which areare semi valuable. Plus warranty's need the original cable.

That said I guess it really depends on preference and build. In my case I have plenty of space to hide the cables and what will be shown will get an extension. Alot of what will be seen needs an extension anyway. Also in some cases of elaborate color schemes ect, the question of what if you change your PSU for a different one then you have to resleeve.

Also yes I meant caps I don't know why I said resistors yesterday was a long day lol.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Anyone running a stable overclock using a 4930 and 32 GB OF MEMORY? Or know where I can find info for this? Looking to get a good stable 4.5 to 4.7.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Anyone running a stable overclock using a 4930 and 32 GB OF MEMORY? Or know where I can find info for this? Looking to get a good stable 4.5 to 4.7.


I have a stable 4.6 with 64gb if memory at 2400
Voltage is 1.3 i think


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Well get proof reading so I can buy one of these already will you!


As much as I wish I could, unfortunately there are some compounding factors... My mother has been in the hospital for some time now. She is in intensive care with lung cancer and pneumonia. Doctors are not giving her long, so I have been trying to keep her company.

In addition, my MacBook is broken, so I can't even work on it while away.

Things kind of turned sour pretty quickly, and with my own medical issues I have been in and out of the hospital quite a bit myself (unfortunately in more than out). Fortunately it works out because I can just go a few floors to visit my mom.

I really don't want to pull a game publisher move and release a product that is 65% finished and then have people waiting for software patches to fix everything. If you know what I mean.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> As much as I wish I could, unfortunately there are some compounding factors... My mother has been in the hospital for some time now. She is in intensive care with lung cancer and pneumonia. Doctors are not giving her long, so I have been trying to keep her company.
> 
> In addition, my MacBook is broken, so I can't even work on it while away.
> 
> Things kind of turned sour pretty quickly, and with my own medical issues I have been in and out of the hospital quite a bit myself (unfortunately in more than out). Fortunately it works out because I can just go a few floors to visit my mom.
> 
> I really don't want to pull a game publisher move and release a product that is 65% finished and then have people waiting for software patches to fix everything. If you know what I mean.


No, I understand and completely respect anyone with those philosophies (though that macbook remark makes me wonder







). I was just joking around with that last post; take care of what matters most to you everything else can wait







.


----------



## reev3r

Believe me, I know just how much you want one, if not more... lol I wanted one bad enough to build it myself.  hehe

Whoa now... I knew I'd take flak for the MacBook comment... Just know that I prefer OS X on a portable due to its stability, I still have Win7 on a boot camp partition for gaming (though the 6750 is seriously long in the tooth, I do not do enough remote computing to really justify the screen repair).

I will probably be heading back home soon though within a couple weeks.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

lol Yeah, you know you want something badly when you resort to building it yourself. I have a desk due to such desire!

I wouldn't have thought laptop stability was affected by the OS as much as by the bloat added by the manufacturer. Though my experience with laptops has been lacking the past decade.

I hate hospitals personally. I can't stand the atmosphere, the lack of things to do, and the doctors who are so sure of what they're saying they expect you not to even question them. Having to stay in one would be like torture for me.....on top of whatever I was in there for lol.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> lol Yeah, you know you want something badly when you resort to building it yourself. I have a desk due to such desire!
> 
> I wouldn't have thought laptop stability was affected by the OS as much as by the bloat added by the manufacturer. Though my experience with laptops has been lacking the past decade.
> 
> I hate hospitals personally. I can't stand the atmosphere, the lack of things to do, and the doctors who are so sure of what they're saying they expect you not to even question them. Having to stay in one would be like torture for me.....on top of whatever I was in there for lol.


That's quite funny, I built my desk as well, on the cheap, aluminum and a door blank. Lightweight, easily disassembled, and it lays flat when yanked apart. I love it!

Oh yeah, OS X is (in my experience at least) much more stable overall than Windows. I have had maybe 3-5 crashes or full OS errors, however Windows provides crashes on a semi regular basis on some level. Driver crashes, kernel panics, and the like.

When I first got sick in 2002, I refused to go to the hospital, until I got so weak that I could not resist my friend from forcing me to go. When they first checked me out they said I had the flu, so I asked for a second opinion, the doctor did one simple test and had a CT scan ordered, they found a 9"x5" tumor in my abdomen. After spending the next 3 months in the hospital with surgeries and complications I quickly adjusted to spending time there. In recent years I spend a good bit of time there so I've grown very accustomed.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think you mean capacitors ?
> 
> easy enough to redo, also not really needed
> 
> 
> 
> I know but I still want them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They are there for a reason what that is idk tbh. But I have a few ideas there either decoupling caps or low pass filters. Either of which areare semi valuable. Plus warranty's need the original cable.
> 
> That said I guess it really depends on preference and build. In my case I have plenty of space to hide the cables and what will be shown will get an extension. Alot of what will be seen needs an extension anyway. Also in some cases of elaborate color schemes ect, the question of what if you change your PSU for a different one then you have to resleeve.
> 
> Also yes I meant caps I don't know why I said resistors yesterday was a long day lol.
Click to expand...

just rewire to be connectors on the psu side for your new psu ( assuming you made custom cables ) you may need a few wires redone on the 24 pin


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> That's quite funny, I built my desk as well, on the cheap, aluminum and a door blank. Lightweight, easily disassembled, and it lays flat when yanked apart. I love it!
> 
> Oh yeah, OS X is (in my experience at least) much more stable overall than Windows. I have had maybe 3-5 crashes or full OS errors, however Windows provides crashes on a semi regular basis on some level. Driver crashes, kernel panics, and the like.
> 
> When I first got sick in 2002, I refused to go to the hospital, until I got so weak that I could not resist my friend from forcing me to go. When they first checked me out they said I had the flu, so I asked for a second opinion, the doctor did one simple test and had a CT scan ordered, they found a 9"x5" tumor in my abdomen. After spending the next 3 months in the hospital with surgeries and complications I quickly adjusted to spending time there. In recent years I spend a good bit of time there so I've grown very accustomed.


Mine is solid red oak rubbed with tung oil then epoxied. Not very light but also comes apart easily and lays flat. I think it cost around 500 in materials but it was a lot less than the one I was considering buying.

The most trouble I've had was with nvidia drivers giving random 116 errors. After years of trying to fix them I've given up. The next time I upgrade my gfx cards I'm going to stop updating their driver once a new series comes out as I think that's the problem.

9x5?! That's massive! See that would have driven me nuts; having to be there and not being able to leave. I don't handle those kinds of situations as well as I should.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Mine is solid red oak rubbed with tung oil then epoxied. Not very light but also comes apart easily and lays flat. I think it cost around 500 in materials but it was a lot less than the one I was considering buying.
> 
> The most trouble I've had was with nvidia drivers giving random 116 errors. After years of trying to fix them I've given up. The next time I upgrade my gfx cards I'm going to stop updating their driver once a new series comes out as I think that's the problem.
> 
> 9x5?! That's massive! See that would have driven me nuts; having to be there and not being able to leave. I don't handle those kinds of situations as well as I should.


I am certain yours looks better than mine... lol I spent around $100 on mine. So it fit the bill.

My Nvidia drivers crash every once in a while, but I have been dealing with BSOD's for fifteen years now, I don't think I have ever had a rig that was BSOD free.

Yeah,it was not awesome, then they told me I had colon cancer as well after they transferred me to the Mayo. I did not handle it well at all. I kept trying to find ways to leave but they weren't having it. Mind you, that was before laptops and mobile Internet. It was driving me nuts!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I'm just glad it does its job lol I wasn't really thinking too much about looks.

The irony is that my laptops always seemed more stable than my desktops. I think I only ever had a handful of bsods and that was typically when I ended a task a shouldn't have. Though I did have hardlocks now and again.

I don't know man, if they were able to keep you there you must have not wanted to leave that badly


----------



## Myloween

Hi,
I search someone who could be agree to test the voltages with a multimeter (or whatever) of Power LED and HDD LED on System panel connector of this motherboard, I did not found this in the manual.
I think it's 5v but I'm not sure and my motherboard is disassemble for accept a waterblock, I can't check this currently.

I appreciate so much the one who could help me.
Thank you very much, and... sorry for my funny English.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myloween*
> 
> Hi,
> I search someone who could be agree to test the voltages with a multimeter (or whatever) of this Power LED and HDD LED on System panel connector of this motherboard, I did not found this in the manual.
> I think it's +5v but I'm not sure and my motherboard is disassemble for accept a waterblock, I can't check this currently.
> 
> I appreciate so much the one who could help me.
> Thank you very much, and... sorry for my funny English.


It would help if you gave the reason you want to know . . . .

If you test the voltage without any led connected, (an open circuit with no current flowing) it will be different than with an led connected.

The voltage at the board is going to be 5V, but there is also a resistor in series with the 5V source to the LED front panel connector pins.

That's why it's 5V with no led connected, and with an led connected, it will be between ~1.7V and ~3.4V depending on the LED color when measured at the pins.

Darlene


----------



## Myloween

Quote:


> It would help if you gave the reason you want to know . . . .
> 
> If you test the voltage without any led connected, (an open circuit with no current flowing) it will be different than with an led connected.
> 
> The voltage at the board is going to be 5V, but there is also a resistor in series with the 5V source to the LED front panel connector pins.
> 
> That's why it's 5V with no led connected, and with an led connected, it will be between ~1.7V and ~3.4V depending on the LED color when measured at the pins.
> 
> Darlene


Thank you for your reply and sorry if I was not pretty clear.
I need to know the voltage without any LED or any other component.
In fact I would like to change my Power LED and my HDD LED in my case, so I need to know this voltage for choose my resistance to according with the LEDs that I'll take.

If I understood correctly, the voltage on an open circuit without component on these LED connectors of this Rampage is 5v ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myloween*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> It would help if you gave the reason you want to know . . . .
> 
> If you test the voltage without any led connected, (an open circuit with no current flowing) it will be different than with an led connected.
> 
> The voltage at the board is going to be 5V, but there is also a resistor in series with the 5V source to the LED front panel connector pins.
> 
> That's why it's 5V with no led connected, and with an led connected, it will be between ~1.7V and ~3.4V depending on the LED color when measured at the pins.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for your reply and sorry if I was not pretty clear.
> I need to know the voltage without any LED or any other component.
> In fact I would like to change my Power LED and my HDD LED in my case, so I need to know this voltage for choose my resistance to according with the LEDs that I'll take.
> 
> If I understood correctly, the voltage on an open circuit without component on these LED connectors of this Rampage is 5v ?
Click to expand...

The open circuit voltage is 5V and there is already a resistor on the board.

You can change the case led colors to anything you want and they will work fine, . . . no additional resistor needed.

Darlene


----------



## Myloween

Quote:


> The open circuit voltage is 5V and there is already a resistor on the board.
> 
> You can change the case led colors to anything you want and they will work fine.
> 
> Darlene


Hum ok even if my LED work to 3.2v @0.02A ?








Thx.


----------



## Madmaxneo

deleted post.... as I didn't realize someone already responded to Myloween.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myloween*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The open circuit voltage is 5V and there is already a resistor on the board.
> 
> You can change the case led colors to anything you want and they will work fine.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hum ok even if my LED work to 3.2v @0.02A ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx.
Click to expand...

Yes,

I have to assume it's either a blue or white LED from the specs you mentioned.

It may help to understand how LEDs work, so here's LEDs 101.

LEDs conduct current in only one direction, that's why they only work if you have the leads connected properly.

If you reverse the leads, they don't come on.

LEDs are very different than miniature light bulbs . . .

Light bulbs have internal resistance that self limits current to a safe level when the designed operating voltage is applied. . . If you apply less voltage, less current flows, and the bulb appears dimmer.

LEDs effectively have no internal resistance to limit current flow thru them, . . . . once a certain minimum thresh hold voltage is applied . . . they start to conduct current, and will toast nearly instantly it they don't have some external resistor, (or some electronic limiting circuit) to limit the current flow thru them.

Safe current levels for LEDs depends on their design and sometimes their cooling systems, but for the 3mm and 5mm diameter LEDS that we use in pcs, 20 milliamps (ma), or 0.020 amps is typically the max and much below ~ 8 - 10ma and it appears dimmer than it should be.

Different colors of LEDs each have their own minimum thresh hold voltage, (called Vf or forward voltage in the spec sheet). . . Also different colors can seem brighter than others with the same amount of power applied due to how our eyes work and how different color have various efficiencies.

Here are the typical Vf's for the common colors:

Red is the lowest at ~1.7V
Yellow is next at ~2.3V
Green comes in at ~2.7V
Blue and White at ~3.4V

If we want to have a plan that allows us to use any color LED and have acceptable brightness, we need to use Ohm's Law and do a bit of math.

E = I * R, or re-written: R = E / I, or rewritten: I = E / R

To find the resistance value needed for an LED, you need to know the supply voltage, the LED's threshold voltage, referred to in the data sheet as Vf, or forward voltage, and how much current you want to allow thru the LED.

We solve for the highest allowable current scenario first, and then look to see if that still works OK for the lowest.

For a red LED with a 1.7V Vf spec, a 5V supply, and a 20ma current, . .

1st Subtract the 1.7V Vf from the 5V supply to get the voltage that will be dropped across the resistor . . . . 3.3V

2nd Divide the 3.3V by the desired current, .020A to get the needed resistance, in this case 165 Ohms . . .

The closest standard value would be 180 Ohms.

If you used the next lower standard value, 150 ohms, you would have a couple more ma of current thru the LED, but that's still within it's specified limits.

Now lets see how this same resistor would work for a blue or white LED:

5V supply minus the 3.4V Vf gives us 1.6V, we still have the same 180 ohm resistor, so we need to check the current thru the LED to see if it's enough for reasonable brightness . . . . 1.6V / 180 Ohms = ~9ma
This is plenty bright enough.

If we used the 150 Ohm resistor from the above example, we'd have about 10.7ma of current thru a blue/white LED, giving a somewhat greater brightness level

Given that the indicator LEDs on a case don't need to be all that bright, it would be likely that the resistor on the mobo is at least 180 ohms and may be closer to 240 or 270 ohms, and as such, you can use any LED you want, and it will light up just fine.

The voltage you measure at the mobo pins is always going to be the Vf of the LED, and therefore different for different colors.

Darlene


----------



## Myloween

OK !
Thank you sooo much for all details, I understand now how it works.
And yes you are right, I have 2 White LED for Power button and 1 purple LED for HDD on 3.6v.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myloween*
> 
> OK !
> Thank you sooo much for all details, I understand now how it works.
> And yes you are right, I have 2 White LED for Power button and 1 purple LED for HDD on 3.6v.


If you want the 2 white ones to come on together, be sure to connect them in parallel.

If you connect them in series, the threshold voltages are additive, and you'd need 6.6V before they could turn on.

On the other hand, when connecting in parallel, each will get half the current, so they may not be as bright as just one.

Also, when connecting in parallel, you have to use identical LEDs with the same Vf spec. . . Unless you're wiring from scratch and can use a separate resistor for each LED.

If you connect a red one and a blue one in parallel with a single resistor common to both, (like there would be with a mobo) the blue one will never come on, as the voltage at the LEDs will never rise above the Vf of the lower one of the two (the red one in this case)

Darlene


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I'm just glad it does its job lol I wasn't really thinking too much about looks.
> 
> The irony is that my laptops always seemed more stable than my desktops. I think I only ever had a handful of bsods and that was typically when I ended a task a shouldn't have. Though I did have hardlocks now and again.
> 
> I don't know man, if they were able to keep you there you must have not wanted to leave that badly


I wanted mine to look good as well, but I gave up on that half way through. lol

I would mostly be inclined to agree that laptops are typically more stable for me also, although I still find OS X to still be more stable than any Windows platform. To each their own I suppose.

Well, when you are faced first with the decision of either you have surgery and get rid of the cancer littering your intestines and rectum, or have that cancer spread throughout your body in a few years, it becomes much easier to stay, after the surgery was the hard part, I was ridiculously antsy to go, as well as try to eat... So much so that I convinced my girlfriend and my friend to let me eat a single teddy Graham. Explaining that I will chew it thoroughly and make a much of it, which promptly got stuck in my NG tube (draining my stomach) and alarms started going off, the nurse came in and started looking around to find the problem, and I'm sitting there hiding this CLEAR AS DAY teddy Graham Ear visible in my tube trying to crush it, finally there was this loud THWOOSH! of vacuum relief, and you could hear it smack the bottom of the container it was draining into. At that point I realized I could not safely be trusted with my freedom and that I needed to suck it up and just stay. Which, again, wasn't an easy task. I remember flipping out and calling my girlfriend to come get me, and telling the nurses that they were going to release me, at which they promptly informed me that it would be considered AMA (Against Medical Advice) and that my insurance would not pay the nearly $1,000,000 bill I had accrued. A good motivator to keep someone there. lol

Now, after a lifetime of medical problems, and a couple years where I was in the hospital more than out (kidney failure is a butt) I have just come to accept it as part of my life. The real problem now is that I don't ever make plans, for fear of ending up in the hospital come time to do whatever it is.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I wanted mine to look good as well, but I gave up on that half way through. lol
> 
> I would mostly be inclined to agree that laptops are typically more stable for me also, although I still find OS X to still be more stable than any Windows platform. To each their own I suppose.
> 
> Well, when you are faced first with the decision of either you have surgery and get rid of the cancer littering your intestines and rectum, or have that cancer spread throughout your body in a few years, it becomes much easier to stay, after the surgery was the hard part, I was ridiculously antsy to go, as well as try to eat... So much so that I convinced my girlfriend and my friend to let me eat a single teddy Graham. Explaining that I will chew it thoroughly and make a much of it, which promptly got stuck in my NG tube (draining my stomach) and alarms started going off, the nurse came in and started looking around to find the problem, and I'm sitting there hiding this CLEAR AS DAY teddy Graham Ear visible in my tube trying to crush it, finally there was this loud THWOOSH! of vacuum relief, and you could hear it smack the bottom of the container it was draining into. At that point I realized I could not safely be trusted with my freedom and that I needed to suck it up and just stay. Which, again, wasn't an easy task. I remember flipping out and calling my girlfriend to come get me, and telling the nurses that they were going to release me, at which they promptly informed me that it would be considered AMA (Against Medical Advice) and *that my insurance would not pay the nearly $1,000,000 bill I had accrued*. A good motivator to keep someone there. lol
> 
> Now, after a lifetime of medical problems, and a couple years where I was in the hospital more than out (kidney failure is a butt) I have just come to accept it as part of my life. The real problem now is that I don't ever make plans, for fear of ending up in the hospital come time to do whatever it is.


Small budgets only go so far lol.

Indeed. I can't really speak to Apple OS first hand having never used it personally but I dislike it on principle (the principle that it isn't windows, of course!).

LOL I'd chain myself to the bed if I was looking at having to pay that much on my own if I left. I'd have a hard time giving up food though, I like eating.

On the bright side that makes for a great way to get out of doing things you don't want to do too. Then again you're talking to someone who never really saw the point in "going out", so take it with a grain of salt.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Small budgets only go so far lol.
> 
> Indeed. I can't really speak to Apple OS first hand having never used it personally but I dislike it on principle (the principle that it isn't windows, of course!).
> 
> LOL I'd chain myself to the bed if I was looking at having to pay that much on my own if I left. I'd have a hard time giving up food though, I like eating.
> 
> On the bright side that makes for a great way to get out of doing things you don't want to do too. Then again you're talking to someone who never really saw the point in "going out", so take it with a grain of salt.


Yeah, that's the way it always goes. Dang budget.

Yeah, eating is the only pastime I "really" have left. I can't do 90% of the things I used to because of tumors, kidney failure, cancer, or broken bones. So now I avoid the hospital like the plague when I can, until I can't control my pain and nausea at home anymore.

Looks like we have that in common, "going out" for me is when I go get groceries... lol


----------



## Myloween

Quote:


> If you want the 2 white ones to come on together, be sure to connect them in parallel.


Yes, that's what I thought to do, thx for all.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Yeah, that's the way it always goes. Dang budget.
> 
> Yeah, eating is the only pastime I "really" have left. I can't do 90% of the things I used to because of tumors, kidney failure, cancer, or broken bones. So now I avoid the hospital like the plague when I can, until I can't control my pain and nausea at home anymore.
> 
> Looks like we have that in common, "going out" for me is when I go get groceries... lol


Wow, sorry to hear all that guys, I understand about the budget thing as I am still unemployed and on a very limited budget, I hope that you do get well soon and are able to dive back into your hobby...
Maybe you should stop trying to OC yourselves......it sounds like your hardware is starting to degrade. Have you run a virus scanner? Joking aside I hope that it all works out as you have a lot to offer on here.

Now on to my question: Does anyone here know about TJmax and how to tell what it is for your processor? I was on the Aida64 thread and they gave examples of how to find what TJmax is (5F is 95 cel and 5B is 91 cel).

But I got the result of 5A, does that mean my TJ max is 90 deg Celsius?


----------



## MsNikita

Hiya Guys...

I was wondering has anyone encountered the odd, very random *Q Code 01* error? Have BIOS 0603. Occasionally after sleep my system refuses to wake up. Instead it'll hang with this error. I've tried googling for answers but I can't seem to debug it.









Only way I can recover is to physically power off the PSU and wait till all the LEDs power down before powering back up. Upon hitting that power button, the system loads as normal, though windows seems to think it's waking up from sleep... There are nothing in windows logs. I'm rather baffled. Anyone have any clues?

Other than this, the system is sweet!


----------



## Madmaxneo

I think somewhere between your BIOS and the latest BIOS update there is a fix for that. I would just go ahead and update to the latest which is 0801 I believe.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Wow, sorry to hear all that guys, I understand about the budget thing as I am still unemployed and on a very limited budget, I hope that you do get well soon and are able to dive back into your hobby...
> Maybe you should stop trying to OC yourselves......it sounds like your hardware is starting to degrade. Have you run a virus scanner? Joking aside I hope that it all works out as you have a lot to offer on here.
> 
> Now on to my question: Does anyone here know about TJmax and how to tell what it is for your processor? I was on the Aida64 thread and they gave examples of how to find what TJmax is (5F is 95 cel and 5B is 91 cel).
> 
> But I got the result of 5A, does that mean my TJ max is 90 deg Celsius?


MORE SPEED! lol

Thank you for the well wishes. I always try to remember that it could be worse, but some days it is very difficult, especially with kidney stones and kidney failure. Although, no matter what, someone out there always has it worse.

As for the Tjunction, you should be able to find it with a Google search for "processor name ARK", which will bring you to some technical details for your CPU, of which Tj max should be one...

Let me know if not.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Wow, sorry to hear all that guys, I understand about the budget thing as I am still unemployed and on a very limited budget, I hope that you do get well soon and are able to dive back into your hobby...
> Maybe you should stop trying to OC yourselves......it sounds like your hardware is starting to degrade. Have you run a virus scanner? Joking aside I hope that it all works out as you have a lot to offer on here.
> 
> Now on to my question: Does anyone here know about TJmax and how to tell what it is for your processor? I was on the Aida64 thread and they gave examples of how to find what TJmax is (5F is 95 cel and 5B is 91 cel).
> 
> But I got the result of 5A, does that mean my TJ max is 90 deg Celsius?


Actually, come to think of it, I seem to recall that TjMax is always 100°C on Intel... Not sure about AMD though (but I doubt it matters to anybody here at this point)..


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I think somewhere between your BIOS and the latest BIOS update there is a fix for that. I would just go ahead and update to the latest which is 0801 I believe.


Kewl.. Didn't know there's a newer version...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> MORE SPEED! lol
> 
> Thank you for the well wishes. I always try to remember that it could be worse, but some days it is very difficult, especially with kidney stones and kidney failure. Although, no matter what, someone out there always has it worse.
> 
> As for the Tjunction, you should be able to find it with a Google search for "processor name ARK", which will bring you to some technical details for your CPU, of which Tj max should be one...
> 
> Let me know if not.


That's what my original search was for. Which is when I found out that TJmax can be different for each specific CPU and in the Aida64 forums they say how to get that with their program. I followed their directions and there were results for the two listed above for 91 and 95 deg Celsius with 5F and 5B but nothing for 5A. I got this number by following the direction in the 4930k TJmax thread. The number references is from a string of numbers, in particular:
Offset 0E0: 54 31 00 00 00 0A 5A 00 40 9F 5A 00 40 9F 06 00

Where the 7th sequence is the TJ max for my CPU.


----------



## MsNikita

OK... Now she's been flashed to the latest firmware, version 0801, that QCode 01 seems to be appearing more often.

What does it mean, maybe then I'll have some idea why it's happening.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That's what my original search was for. Which is when I found out that TJmax can be different for each specific CPU and in the Aida64 forums they say how to get that with their program. I followed their directions and there were results for the two listed above for 91 and 95 deg Celsius with 5F and 5B but nothing for 5A. I got this number by following the direction in the 4930k TJmax thread. The number references is from a string of numbers, in particular:
> Offset 0E0: 54 31 00 00 00 0A 5A 00 40 9F 5A 00 40 9F 06 00
> 
> Where the 7th sequence is the TJ max for my CPU.


Interesting, I seem to remember reading on Toms or Anand that there is a throttling 'junction' (Which could be different) and a shutdown 'junction', though I don't believe that junction is the phrase that was used for both. I think it was Tcase for throttling, and Tjunction for the axe-man...

That being said, it is entirely possible I misunderstood what I was reading, so I am fully open to different information.


----------



## Madmaxneo

It's in the manual on page 1-32. It means Power on reset type detection. I'm not sure what that means but I had seen a lot of that when I first flashed my bios but it would not even start all the way up. I reset the bios and re-flashed it. All has been good since then. If your system starts fine then all might be good.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> OK... Now she's been flashed to the latest firmware, version 0801, that QCode 01 seems to be appearing more often.
> 
> What does it mean, maybe then I'll have some idea why it's happening.


It's in the manual on page 1-32. It means Power on reset type detection. I'm not sure what that means but I had seen a lot of that when I first flashed my bios but it would not even start all the way up. I reset the bios and re-flashed it. All has been good since then. If your system starts fine then all might be good.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Sorry about the double post above but I haven't been able to figure out how to delete a post just yet....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Interesting, I seem to remember reading on Toms or Anand that there is a throttling 'junction' (Which could be different) and a shutdown 'junction', though I don't believe that junction is the phrase that was used for both. I think it was Tcase for throttling, and Tjunction for the axe-man...
> 
> That being said, it is entirely possible I misunderstood what I was reading, so I am fully open to different information.


Well Tmax is the max temp the CPU can handle. I knew this because it is listed in the Real Temp GT readout. But I wanted to have it set specifically for my CPU so I looked it up and am still trying to figure out what it means.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Now on to my question: Does anyone here know about TJmax and how to tell what it is for your processor? I was on the Aida64 thread and they gave examples of how to find what TJmax is (5F is 95 cel and 5B is 91 cel).
> 
> But I got the result of 5A, does that mean my TJ max is 90 deg Celsius?


I don't think it really matters what it exactly is because you shouldn't let it get that high anyway. I tried finding the same thing for my chip and ended up not finding it and teh only reason was habbit from running my q9650 with realtemp calibrated for exact temp.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Actually, come to think of it, I seem to recall that TjMax is always 100°C on Intel... Not sure about AMD though (but I doubt it matters to anybody here at this point)..


The "i" series perhaps but older core 2 series had 95 or 98 I think.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> Hiya Guys...
> 
> I was wondering has anyone encountered the odd, very random *Q Code 01* error? Have BIOS 0603. Occasionally after sleep my system refuses to wake up. Instead it'll hang with this error. I've tried googling for answers but I can't seem to debug it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only way I can recover is to physically power off the PSU and wait till all the LEDs power down before powering back up. Upon hitting that power button, the system loads as normal, though windows seems to think it's waking up from sleep... There are nothing in windows logs. I'm rather baffled. Anyone have any clues?
> 
> Other than this, the system is sweet!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> OK... Now she's been flashed to the latest firmware, version 0801, that QCode 01 seems to be appearing more often.
> 
> What does it mean, maybe then I'll have some idea why it's happening.


Sounds like something is unstable, I had a similar issue on a different board when trying to sleep the pc with the OC'ed chip. Have you done any overclocking or changed any bios settings and if so which?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Sorry about the double post above but *I haven't been able to figure out how to delete a post just yet....*
> Well Tmax is the max temp the CPU can handle. I knew this because it is listed in the Real Temp GT readout. But I wanted to have it set specifically for my CPU so I looked it up and am still trying to figure out what it means.


You can't, only mods/admin can. You can edit your posts though with the edit button (little pencil) found in the left of any one of your given posts.

I think the rule of thumb is to keep the Distance to Tj Max at at least 40.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I don't think it really matters what it exactly is because you shouldn't let it get that high anyway.
> 
> I think the rule of thumb is to keep the Distance to Tj Max at at least 40.


HERE I am being all technical about it, trying to answer the question, and you come along and express the REALITY of the situation, "Just don't go that high and it won't matter..."

Sometimes I hate my incessant drive to share knowledge... lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I don't think it really matters what it exactly is because you shouldn't let it get that high anyway. I tried finding the same thing for my chip and ended up not finding it and teh only reason was habbit from running my q9650 with realtemp calibrated for exact temp.
> The "i" series perhaps but older core 2 series had 95 or 98 I think.
> 
> Sounds like something is unstable, I had a similar issue on a different board when trying to sleep the pc with the OC'ed chip. Have you done any overclocking or changed any bios settings and if so which?
> You can't, only mods/admin can. You can edit your posts though with the edit button (little pencil) found in the left of any one of your given posts.
> 
> I think the rule of thumb is to keep the Distance to Tj Max at at least 40.


well yeah, I wasn't going to let it get that high anyway. It is more of a being "accurate" kind of thing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> HERE I am being all technical about it, trying to answer the question, and you come along and express the REALITY of the situation, "Just don't go that high and it won't matter..."
> 
> Sometimes I hate my incessant drive to share knowledge... lol


no, that's a good thing. I like it when people share knowledge, especially when it is something I need or want to learn.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Sorry about the double post above but I haven't been able to figure out how to delete a post just yet....
> Well Tmax is the max temp the CPU can handle. I knew this because it is listed in the Real Temp GT readout. But I wanted to have it set specifically for my CPU so I looked it up and am still trying to figure out what it means.


Well there's that at least... I have never ever heard of Tmax before, only Tcase and Tjunction, so my information may be lacking...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> HERE I am being all technical about it, trying to answer the question, and you come along and express the REALITY of the situation, "Just don't go that high and it won't matter..."
> 
> Sometimes I hate my incessant drive to share knowledge... lol


rotfl Right?

I just look at it as "if he doesn't find exactly what he's looking for what will be the next most helpful".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> well yeah, I wasn't going to let it get that high anyway. It is more of a being "accurate" kind of thing
> no, that's a good thing. I like it when people share knowledge, especially when it is something I need or want to learn.


I can appreciate that but you'd likely have better luck buying a thermocoupler(?) to get that actual temp reading to calibrate it with. I only say that because I didn't find a guide for calibrating idle temp readings for "Core i" series chips like they had for the "Core 2" line, so you're only real recourse at that point is a thermocouple anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Well there's that at least... I have never ever heard of Tmax before, only Tcase and Tjunction, so my information may be lacking...


Tj Max as far as I can tell, unless he's using a different version. I've never heard of Tmax either.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> rotfl Right?
> 
> I can appreciate that but you'd likely have better luck buying a thermocoupler(?) to get that actual temp reading to calibrate it with. I only say that because I didn't find a guide for calibrating idle temp readings for "Core i" series chips like they had for the "Core 2" line, so you're only real recourse at that point is a thermocouple anyway.
> Tj Max as far as I can tell, unless he's using a different version. I've never heard of Tmax either.


Oops typo, or some form of dyslexia...lol.
Yeah I meant Tjmax...

According to that Aida64 forum Tjmax is the ultimate max temp the processor can handle and each one is different. Apparently there are a few programs out there that can figure this out through some kind of binary code. If you go to the link I posted above it will tell you how to find the Tjmax for your specific processor. From what I can tell is that for the 4930k the Tjmax ranges from 90 - 95.


----------



## seross69

anyone else ever had problem formatting raid 0 disk and re-installing windows 7 64 bit with this mother board?? when it asked for the driver nothing I showed it would work?? I do not understand this have done it 1000 times before but for some reason it will not work today.

I tried getting it off the CD with no luck and tried getting it from here on a usb stick RAID_AHCI_Win7_8_8-1_VER12801016\Driver\Disk\64bit and it keep telling me this was wrong driver??

then I tried to just load it on one disk and no luck with this PC was crashing for some reason?? so I tried to go back to the raid 0 and the intel screen did not come back up even after i set it to raid in the Bios??

any ideas??

I am sure I will get this figured out tomorrow.!!!! hopefully!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> anyone else ever had problem formatting raid 0 disk and re-installing windows 7 64 bit with this mother board?? when it asked for the driver nothing I showed it would work?? I do not understand this have done it 1000 times before but for some reason it will not work today.
> 
> I tried getting it off the CD with no luck and tried getting it from here on a usb stick RAID_AHCI_Win7_8_8-1_VER12801016\Driver\Disk\64bit and it keep telling me this was wrong driver??
> 
> then I tried to just load it on one disk and no luck with this PC was crashing for some reason?? so I tried to go back to the raid 0 and the intel screen did not come back up even after i set it to raid in the Bios??
> 
> any ideas??
> 
> I am sure I will get this figured out tomorrow.!!!! hopefully!!


It wants the files that used to be the F6 Floppy.

You can put them on a USB stick now . . .

Go to the Asus page for the R5E

Support

Drivers

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_V_EXTREME/HelpDesk_Download/

Pick your OS

Select SATA

Select Intel AHCI/Raid (Version 13.1.0.1058)

Download

Extract the files

Intel RAID

Driver

Disk

Select either 32 or 64 bit folder as appropriate

Put those 6 files on a flash drive, and at the start of the windows install when it gives the chance to load drivers, select that flash drive

I'm sure they must be on the support dvd as well, gotta be a folder called disk . . . . look there


----------



## MsNikita

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It's in the manual on page 1-32. It means Power on reset type detection. I'm not sure what that means but I had seen a lot of that when I first flashed my bios but it would not even start all the way up. I reset the bios and re-flashed it. All has been good since then. If your system starts fine then all might be good.


Thanks, I read it, dunno what it means either... That's why I asked you folks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Sounds like something is unstable, I had a similar issue on a different board when trying to sleep the pc with the OC'ed chip. Have you done any overclocking or changed any bios settings and if so which?.


Well I think I've finally cracked it! 01 error vanished, Ram speed appears to be running normally now. Had to re-flash the ROM again for some reason. I've cycled the power a few times and the system appears to be working normally. Just kinda odd this error appeared outta nowhere, only recent things i've done is upgraded graphics card drivers and swapped out the GTX-970 for a Titan X then that error appeared..

Weird.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It wants the files that used to be the F6 Floppy.
> 
> You can put them on a USB stick now . . .
> 
> Go to the Asus page for the R5E
> 
> Support
> 
> Drivers
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_V_EXTREME/HelpDesk_Download/
> 
> Pick your OS
> 
> Select SATA
> 
> Select Intel AHCI/Raid (Version 13.1.0.1058)
> 
> Download
> 
> Extract the files
> 
> Intel RAID
> 
> Driver
> 
> Disk
> 
> Select either 32 or 64 bit folder as appropriate
> 
> Put those 6 files on a flash drive, and at the start of the windows install when it gives the chance to load drivers, select that flash drive
> 
> I'm sure they must be on the support dvd as well, gotta be a folder called disk . . . . look there


thanks Darlene I thought I tried this but maybe not. Also funny thing is the one on the RVE BK page is older than the RVE page???


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> thanks Darlene I thought I tried this but maybe not. Also funny thing is the one on the RVE BK page is older than the RVE page???


You mean the RIVBE is older than the ones on the RVE ya that makes since (as RVE is newer)







. There is no rampage 5 black edition *yet* I'm sure you just had a brainfart but gotta hassle ya for it







.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> You mean the RIVBE is older than the ones on the RVE ya that makes since (as RVE is newer)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . There is no rampage 5 black edition *yet* I'm sure you just had a brainfart but gotta hassle ya for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Actually meant the ones on the RIVE site are new than the ones on the RIVE BE


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> Well I think I've finally cracked it! 01 error vanished, Ram speed appears to be running normally now. Had to re-flash the ROM again for some reason. I've cycled the power a few times and the system appears to be working normally. Just kinda odd this error appeared outta nowhere, only recent things i've done is upgraded graphics card drivers and swapped out the GTX-970 for a Titan X then that error appeared..
> 
> Weird.


Same thing happened to me when I first put together this rig. I had to flash bios twice.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> thanks Darlene I thought I tried this but maybe not. Also funny thing is the one on the RVE BK page is older than the RVE page???
> 
> 
> 
> You mean the RIVBE is older than the ones on the RVE ya that makes since (as RVE is newer)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . There is no rampage 5 black edition *yet* I'm sure you just had a brainfart but gotta hassle ya for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Sorry 'bout that . . . .

The brainfart was on my end . . . having a senior moment and thought I was in the R5E thread . . .









Yea, just use the R4BE file, should be in the same hierarchical location, and expectably older.

Apologies,

D.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oops typo, or some form of dyslexia...lol.
> Yeah I meant Tjmax...
> 
> According to that Aida64 forum Tjmax is the ultimate max temp the processor can handle and each one is different. Apparently there are a few programs out there that can figure this out through some kind of binary code. If you go to the link I posted above it will tell you how to find the Tjmax for your specific processor. From what I can tell is that for the 4930k the Tjmax ranges from 90 - 95.


That may be why it's so hard to find what it is for your chip then. Back in Core 2 it was the whole chip type (iirc) so all q6600s had the same Tj Max and all the q9650s had the same Tj Max. I liked that approach better lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UltraNEO*
> 
> Thanks, I read it, dunno what it means either... That's why I asked you folks.
> Well I think I've finally cracked it! 01 error vanished, Ram speed appears to be running normally now. Had to re-flash the ROM again for some reason. I've cycled the power a few times and the system appears to be working normally. *Just kinda odd this error appeared outta nowhere*, only recent things i've done is upgraded graphics card drivers and swapped out the GTX-970 for a Titan X then that error appeared..
> 
> Weird.


I've had that a lot, I'll never understand it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Same thing happened to me when I first put together this rig. I had to flash bios twice.


I had to flash mine three times; first because the stock bios was old, second because the first time didn't take properly and third because this board has two bios chips lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I've had that a lot, I'll never understand it.
> I had to flash mine three times; first because the stock bios was old, second because the first time didn't take properly and third because this board has two bios chips lol


Do you think it's because the board has two chips that it has to be flashed twice? If that's the case then it isn't so weird after all.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It wants the files that used to be the F6 Floppy.
> 
> You can put them on a USB stick now . . .
> 
> Go to the Asus page for the R5E
> 
> Support
> 
> Drivers
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_V_EXTREME/HelpDesk_Download/
> 
> Pick your OS
> 
> Select SATA
> 
> Select Intel AHCI/Raid (Version 13.1.0.1058)
> 
> Download
> 
> Extract the files
> 
> Intel RAID
> 
> Driver
> 
> Disk
> 
> Select either 32 or 64 bit folder as appropriate
> 
> Put those 6 files on a flash drive, and at the start of the windows install when it gives the chance to load drivers, select that flash drive
> 
> I'm sure they must be on the support dvd as well, gotta be a folder called disk . . . . look there


For some reason this is not working????

Stupid me found the problem!!! Had the DVD drive plugged into a USB 3.0 port so it was asking for drivers for that!! Moved it to the 2.0 slot and all ok


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Do you think it's because the board has two chips that it has to be flashed twice? If that's the case then it isn't so weird after all.


Well it makes sense that you'd have to flash each chip separately otherwise the point of having two bios chips on-board in the first place is lost. I would hope that such a design wouldn't cause issues with bios flashes taking properly or not though.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> For some reason this is not working????
> 
> Stupid me found the problem!!! Had the DVD drive plugged into a USB 3.0 port so it was asking for drivers for that!! Moved it to the 2.0 slot and all ok


Oh that is funny because it finally happened to someone else....lol. I didn't do that exact same thing but I have had many "DOH!" moments.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oh that is funny because it finally happened to someone else....lol. I didn't do that exact same thing but I have had many "DOH!" moments.


I always seem to screw up the easiest jobs!!!


----------



## pathfindercod

If one has the EKWB monoblock and decides to move the system back to air. What is a good heatsink/s to put on the mosfets above the CPU?

The stock heat pipe was broken to be able to put the I/O cover back on.

Thanks!!!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Hey guys, my +Additional Turbo Voltage suddenly stopped working. I have it set up with +offset & +additional turbo voltage, but a couple days ago I noticed that vcore (monitored by AIDA64) was lower than it should be. I did some investigating, and figured out that while my oc multiplier, VID, & basic +offset are intact and the chip is clocking up & down accordingly, it's not applying anything I put in Additional Turbo Voltage (the reported vcore is the same even if I turn turbo off in cpu settings).

I tried lowering the multiplier to x43 (which has always been a reliable "stock oc" for my chip), but again the bios applied +offset voltage, but no Additional Turbo Voltage.

Then I F5'ed and didn't touch anything, and at stock settings the chip goes into Turbo mode reporting 3900mhz (with Auto vcore, of course), so the all-core turbo feature of the bios seems to be working, but not in offset mode?

I can't for the life of me figure out what could be causing this when I haven't touched my bios settings in months, and my reported vcore has been reliably predictable for almost 2 years. At this point I'm guessing the bios image may have somehow gotten corrupted, but before I go re-flashing the bios image (which has proved problematic in the past), I was wondering if anybody has any ideas what else might be causing the board to ignore +Turbo voltage?


----------



## fishingfanatic

That is an interesting problem. I couldn't offer much help other than to mention going back to optimized defaults and redoing ur oc.

Have you tried that per chance?

FF









It's not the same board but it might help, from the ROG site:

http://rog.asus.com/51092012/overclocking/overclocking-using-offset-mode-for-cpu-core-voltage/


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> That is an interesting problem. I couldn't offer much help other than to mention going back to optimized defaults and redoing ur oc.
> 
> Have you tried that per chance?


Yes, I did that last night. Thankfully, after my last bios flashing debacle, in which the re-flashed bios wouldn't accept the saved oc settings file, I had the good sense to go page by page through my painstakingly detailed bios and take screenshots of every setting so I'd never lose them and have to start over from scratch again.... so last night I pulled out those screenshots and methodically went from F5, to x46, to offset, to additional turbo, etc. using all the digi+ etc settings I already know work.

Interestingly enough, it seems to be unexpectedly stable with just my minimal offset. I can pass Cinebench (which I've always found to be great for finding instability fast) at a lower vcore than I thought I needed previously (though I could be mistaken, it's been a long time since I tweaked & stability tested my oc), but it fails under RealBench.

Again, the whole thing smells fishy to me.... but I also can't figure out how or when my bios image could have gotten corrupted, I haven't benched or crashed in months, just regular daily use and ocassional gaming. Maybe coincidentally, I first noticed the change the day after I applied a bunch of Windows updates, so along the way I restored my disk image back to before those updates just in case microsoft did something that screwed with my SMBUS or something, but that didn't seem to the the problem either.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

My RIVBE and 4930K has finally got the home it deserves!











Lots of custom work done to my LD Cooling PC-V8 though.









I need another MSI Lightning R9 290X though ...


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> My RIVBE and 4930K has finally got the home it deserves!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of custom work done to my LD Cooling PC-V8 though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need another MSI Lightning R9 290X though ...


Very nice. But I have to ask all that LCing and the GPUs are on air why???? Lol get them under water.


----------



## M11C




----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Wow, sorry to hear all that guys, I understand about the budget thing as I am still unemployed and on a very limited budget, I hope that you do get well soon and are able to dive back into your hobby...
> Maybe you should stop trying to OC yourselves......it sounds like your hardware is starting to degrade. Have you run a virus scanner? Joking aside I hope that it all works out as you have a lot to offer on here.
> 
> Now on to my question: Does anyone here know about TJmax and how to tell what it is for your processor? I was on the Aida64 thread and they gave examples of how to find what TJmax is (5F is 95 cel and 5B is 91 cel).
> 
> But I got the result of 5A, does that mean my TJ max is 90 deg Celsius?


I know it has been a while since this question was active, but I found a way to easily find TjMax... Using the software CoreTemp, in the options it provides a setting "Display the distance to TjMax in temperature fields", which will allow one to easily calculate TjMax... Mine, apparently, is 98C... It is under Options->Settings->Advanced


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Very nice. But I have to ask all that LCing and the GPUs are on air why???? Lol get them under water.


Thank you. I tend to change GPUs frequently and I do not wish to take down my whole loop each time I decide to throw in something different, also the GPU is sitting at 65C on air so I do not really see the reason to water cool it. Planning to get another R9 290X or two R9 290s for a little more power (also on air).


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Thank you. I tend to change GPUs frequently and I do not wish to take down my whole loop each time I decide to throw in something different, also the GPU is sitting at 65C on air so I do not really see the reason to water cool it. Planning to get another R9 290X or two R9 290s for a little more power (also on air).


Funny you say that, my first thought when I saw your rig was that it swapping in/out a component would be a nightmare. lol

There's enough room between/behind the pipes to slide graphics cards in and out without taking the loop apart?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Funny you say that, my first thought when I saw your rig was that it swapping in/out a component would be a nightmare. lol
> 
> There's enough room between/behind the pipes to slide graphics cards in and out without taking the loop apart?


I have not tried to get any kind of GPU in there with the tubing in place, but there seems to be place to slide in cards up to 14 cm height (the Lighting is a little over 13 cm high). I am pretty sure it will go just fine, even though if I have to empty the loop I think it is done in a few hours (take down and "build" up again). There is kind of two ways to empty the loop now, I have lots of QD3's as "spare parts" so I could just disconnect the pumps from eachother and tap it from both reservoirs. Additionally I have the drain that will take the most in the beginning. I am not really worried.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Very nice. But I have to ask all that LCing and the GPUs are on air why???? Lol get them under water.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. I tend to change GPUs frequently and I do not wish to take down my whole loop each time I decide to throw in something different, also the GPU is sitting at 65C on air so I do not really see the reason to water cool it. Planning to get another R9 290X or two R9 290s for a little more power (also on air).
Click to expand...

qdcs, do you need it ???


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> qdcs, do you need it ???


I agree not that hard to put GPU's underwater over and over not much really changes with the ports on the GPU blocks so just drain, hook up and fill back up and away you go


----------



## Mappi75

Did you install (every time) the drivers from the asus website?

Or did you install newer drivers?

Its my first time that i installed these (newer) drivers:

asmedia_106x_3.0.2(www.station-drivers.com).exe
Asmedia_USB3_1.16.24.0(www.station-drivers.com).exe
PROWinx64.exe v20.0
SetupChipset.exe v10.0.26
Intel Management Engine Interface (MEI) Version 10.0.39.1003

Intel Rapid Storage Technology (Intel RST) RAID Driver only version 12.8.0.1016 will work? (NOT the newer one: 13.6.0.1002)

Is there a link for a newer ACPIx64-based computer ?
v6.3.9600.16384, dated 21.06.2006.

Whats up with the ASUSTeK AMDA00 Interface v.1.0.0.0. ?

Edit:
installing these new drivers help me to fix my problem returning from energy saving mode to my desktop.
My screen did not get any signal from my Titan Black.

Now it works perfectly!









Edit2:
found another newer driver:

Intel Rapid Storage Technology Version 12.9.4.1000 WHQL
Drivers above v13.x does not still work!


----------



## reev3r

Well, for everyone that was involved in the discussion about my XSPC waterblock causing problems with my VRM/MOSFET and the '00' error PUST code, I FINALLY got around to installing the EK monoblock that I had purchased months ago, and it is working flawlessly!

Did a full 24 hour leak test without incident, and threw everything together after that (to play GTA V) and it ran through PUST and boot quickly and I was greeted by the glorious (not so glorious) sight of the Windows login screen!

I went through four or five more reboots, as the first few times I booted with the XSPC block it worked fine, but this one has been going strong for days now, with quite a few reboots and is still going strong!

I am still not certain what the problem is, but I can say this, I am not going 5o be purchasing another XSPC block/Product again. Their support was HORRENDOUS, and the product was apparently faulty. Despite the added cost of EK products, I'll be getting what I pay for from now on, which is something that works!


----------



## Mega Man

glad to hear !~~


----------



## Goggle Eye

Reev3R Good news glad it worked out.

What is the max 24/7 temperatures on the mother board air cooling? Main concern is the VRM.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Well, for everyone that was involved in the discussion about my XSPC waterblock causing problems with my VRM/MOSFET and the '00' error PUST code, I FINALLY got around to installing the EK monoblock that I had purchased months ago, and it is working flawlessly!
> 
> Did a full 24 hour leak test without incident, and threw everything together after that (to play GTA V) and it ran through PUST and boot quickly and I was greeted by the glorious (not so glorious) sight of the Windows login screen!
> 
> I went through four or five more reboots, as the first few times I booted with the XSPC block it worked fine, but this one has been going strong for days now, with quite a few reboots and is still going strong!
> 
> I am still not certain what the problem is, but I can say this, I am not going 5o be purchasing another XSPC block/Product again. Their support was HORRENDOUS, and the product was apparently faulty. Despite the added cost of EK products, I'll be getting what I pay for from now on, which is something that works!


Just wait, when you least expect it *BAM*! double 0 post code. lol

Glad this is finally working for you.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Reev3R Good news glad it worked out.


Thank you kindly!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Just wait, when you least expect it *BAM*! double 0 post code. lol
> 
> Glad this is finally working for you.


Just when I thought you were a good guy... You just had to throw that negativity my way... I pretty much hate your face now. ;-)

Thanks!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Just when I thought you were a good guy... You just had to throw that negativity my way... I pretty much hate your face now. ;-)
> 
> Thanks!


As if you even have a choice in how you feel about my dark carbon fiber composite armor and illuminated visual micro-sensor optical arrays.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> As if you even have a choice in how you feel about my dark carbon fiber composite armor and illuminated visual micro-sensor optical arrays.


Hey now, I can pretend that I don't think you are an incredible bada$$, with all of your awesomesauce and majesty!

Although, you best beware, cause I have all my own sorts of varied sizes, colors and branded bottles of awesomesauce and sweet majesty! So you just calm down your badass carbon fiber micro laser silk underwear...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Hey now, I can pretend that I don't think you are an incredible bada$$, with all of your awesomesauce and majesty!
> 
> Although, you best beware, cause I have all my own sorts of varied sizes, colors and branded bottles of awesomesauce and sweet majesty! So you just calm down your badass carbon fiber micro laser silk underwear...


LMAO

Generically branded perhaps, I've wiped out two whole civilizations and destroyed several solar systems. Besides, my product is finger lickin good


----------



## Goggle Eye

Cant believe it I had a brain fart.







my fault. The on switch stopped working the Capacitor was loose and came off gave it a slight tug.
The reset switch never worked. The ON switch worked until the capacitor came off. Can still boot using the power on button on the mother board. Just contacted Asus. Sent me an e mail in 1 hour. Told me to contact Phoenix Service center for a M/Board Replacement. No RMA number or Case ID Number. Hope they will replace the mother board crossing my fingers.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Cant believe it I had a brain fart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my fault. The on switch stopped working the Capacitor was loose and came off gave it a slight tug.
> The reset switch never worked. The ON switch worked until the capacitor came off. Can still boot using the power on button on the mother board. Just contacted Asus. Sent me an e mail in 1 hour. Told me to contact Phoenix Service center for a M/Board Replacement. No RMA number or Case ID Number. Hope they will replace the mother board crossing my fingers.


What the crap!?!? My board has a component with a big chunk missing, came from the factory like that. I noticed it when I first unpacked the board, but I installed it to see if it would work and when it did I totally forgot about it until a few months ago when I saw it, unfortunately I doubt Asus would warranty it at this point, just bummed that I forgot about it, I planned to RMA it after I played with it when it was new, but meh, whatdya do?

I remember back around ~2002 or so, I had a couple of motherboards with failed caps, during a time when most of the electrolyte being used was somehow chemically faulty and causing failures all over the place. I just ended up replacing the caps on my motherboard with new ones. I think I ended up replacing about two dozen bulging/popped/leaking or otherwise faulty capacitors across about six motherboards, the worst ones were the caps that didn't have any physical signs of being faulty, but were causing issues on a given subsystem, for example I recall I was having issues with the storage subsystem of my rig, and although none of the associated caps presented any physical signs of fault, I ended up replacing three or four of them before it started functioning properly again.

Over the course of owning several of those boards, probably five years in varying capacities, I kept having to replace caps every so often, on my MSI KT266 Pro2-RU (It was one of the first motherboards with on board RAID and USB 2.0!), with an Athlon XP 2500 Barton, I had to replace a cap on that about once every three months for about two years. Then a similar issue with my Soyo (my favorite brand, EVER, motherboard!) KT400 Dragon Ultra Platinum Edition, easily one of the most beautiful motherboards I have ever seen, with its all white/platinum colored PCB... Oh, what a thing of beauty... It really is too bad that Soyo disappeared, and truly the way they disappeared, it's like nobody even noticed... Oh, how I reminisce... Though their disappearance led to me buying my first Asus motherboard, the only brand I have bought for my gaming rig since ~2004, the A8N-SLI Deluxe (first ever Nvidia SLI motherboard, I specify Nvidia because 3DFX had created the first iteration of SLI with their Voodoo cards, but they called it Scan Line Interleave instead of Scalable Link Interface, and it was limited to PCI, and largely went away with the advent of AGP, well, and the purchase of 3DFX by Nvidia, since that was a single slot interface, which was a pile of crap interface in my opinion... Stupid AGP!!!)

My apologies for taking you on that terrible journey down memory lane... lol


----------



## Goggle Eye

Bad News contacted Phoenix Service Center. Told me to go to a local service center. We went. The lady was very nice she informed us Phoenix Service Center will not replace any Asus mother board with a damaged part. Asked them if it was a brand new mother board never installed would they replace it. Answer is no. Next breath she offered to sell me a Brand New R4BE mother board. My answer NO.

Will Asus Asia issue a case number: No
Will Asus Asia issue a RMA number: No

Never had these issues with Asus in the USA. Asus always issues a case number and a RMA number. Not sure what I will do at this point? Been a long time since have had an issue with a Asus M/Board. Last Asus board ever had issues with was a Rampage ll Extreme Asus USA was prompt replaced in 1 week.

If I screwed up I can see the stance. I do not understand why Asus Asia will not issue a case number or a RMA number at least look at the mother board make a informed decision.







if the mother board was faulty when made or if the issue is my responsibility.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Bad News contacted Phoenix Service Center. Told me to go to a local service center. We went. The lady was very nice she informed us Phoenix Service Center will not replace any Asus mother board with a damaged part. Asked them if it was a brand new mother board never installed would they replace it. Answer is no. Next breath she offered to sell me a Brand New R4BE mother board. My answer NO.
> 
> Will Asus Asia issue a case number: No
> Will Asus Asia issue a RMA number: No
> 
> Never had these issues with Asus in the USA. Asus always issues a case number and a RMA number. Not sure what I will do at this point? Been a long time since have had an issue with a Asus M/Board. Last Asus board ever had issues with was a Rampage ll Extreme Asus USA was prompt replaced in 1 week.
> 
> If I screwed up I can see the stance. I do not understand why Asus Asia will not issue a case number or a RMA number at least look at the mother board make a informed decision.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if the mother board was faulty when made or if the issue is my responsibility.


Weak sauce man! Sorry to hear that they are hosing you on the replacement/repair. With that said, my suggestion would be as stated above, if the capacitor is not damaged, I would encourage you to simply solder it back on... However, if you lack the necessary soldering skills to do so, you could always find someone to do it for you, or seek out an electronics repair shop, they'll probably do it for just a few dollars. Alternatively, and less of a good idea (due to the inability to repair it/fix it) is to purchase some electrically conductive adhesive, which will allow you to 'glue' the capacitor back onto/into the PCB and have it working...

Just my thoughts on the matter, I would offer to repair it myself, but alas, with it being so far away, and not feeling comfortable with shipping, etc. I can not happily offer to do so. Again, I would simply seek out a small electronics repair shop, if it is just a 'missing' capacitor, they'll surely have it sorted for you in under fifteen minutes, especially if you still have the capacitor in question, worst case is that it requires a little extra effort to clear out the solder holes (RoHS solder can be a PITA to work with), or if the legs on the capacitor are too short/damaged and they need to source a replacement capacitor, which should be simple enough, and will likely cost under $5, maybe $10 if they have a high markup... Either way, they'll have it working in short order!  It will still be cheaper than the $500 retail for a new motherboard...

Regardless of what your decision ends up being, I bid you good luck in the end result!


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Weak sauce man! Sorry to hear that they are hosing you on the replacement/repair. With that said, my suggestion would be as stated above, if the capacitor is not damaged, I would encourage you to simply solder it back on... However, if you lack the necessary soldering skills to do so, you could always find someone to do it for you, or seek out an electronics repair shop, they'll probably do it for just a few dollars. Alternatively, and less of a good idea (due to the inability to repair it/fix it) is to purchase some electrically conductive adhesive, which will allow you to 'glue' the capacitor back onto/into the PCB and have it working...
> 
> Just my thoughts on the matter, I would offer to repair it myself, but alas, with it being so far away, and not feeling comfortable with shipping, etc. I can not happily offer to do so. Again, I would simply seek out a small electronics repair shop, if it is just a 'missing' capacitor, they'll surely have it sorted for you in under fifteen minutes, especially if you still have the capacitor in question, worst case is that it requires a little extra effort to clear out the solder holes (RoHS solder can be a PITA to work with), or if the legs on the capacitor are too short/damaged and they need to source a replacement capacitor, which should be simple enough, and will likely cost under $5, maybe $10 if they have a high markup... Either way, they'll have it working in short order!  It will still be cheaper than the $500 retail for a new motherboard...
> 
> Regardless of what your decision ends up being, I bid you good luck in the end result!


I am giving Asus an opportunity to repair or replace the mother board. phoenix is not related to Asus period but a broker that imports computer hardware oer the lady we talked to at Phoenix. Looked at the capacitor after reading your post. There is 2 wholes in the Capaciitor. One must be Posative the other Negative. How would you determine the correct placement of the capacitor on the pins? There is 2 pins standing up on the mother board where the capacitor was.

Are the pins contected to the capacitor then fit into holes on the mother board? Are the pins attached to the mother board and slide into the wholes on the capacitor? No solder or adhesive on the pins or in the holes in the capacitor.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> I am giving Asus an opportunity to repair or replace the mother board. phoenix is not related to Asus period but a broker that imports computer hardware oer the lady we talked to at Phoenix. Looked at the capacitor after reading your post. There is 2 wholes in the Capaciitor. One must be Posative the other Negative. How would you determine the correct placement of the capacitor on the pins? There is 2 pins standing up on the mother board where the capacitor was.
> 
> Are the pins contected to the capacitor then fit into holes on the mother board? Are the pins attached to the mother board and slide into the wholes on the capacitor? No solder or adhesive on the pins or in the holes in the capacitor.


Yikes. First thing, be very careful with that capacitor! Those holes will be able to leak the electrolyte inside the capacitor, which can be corrosive and potentially toxic, be especially careful not to get it on your fingers or near any electronic equipment, as it can damage anything it comes into contact with, basically just treat it like acid. 

Normally the capacitor would have those two pins/legs coming out of it, and not coming out of the motherboard.

This is what a capacitor should look like:



It would seem that the capacitor was likely faulty from the factory, either that or somewhere along the way to now it was damaged in some way, however, it takes a lot of force to remove the pins from a capacitor and leave them firmly soldered to the motherboard, which makes me think it was not manufactured properly...

Anyhow, I am pretty confident that Asus will honor the warranty, given the specific type of failure involved. Be sure to explain to them exactly what you are dealing with though, possibly take a photograph of the capacitor itself (where the holes and missing pins/legs go) and the pins sticking out of the motherboard to be certain that they fully understand it is not something an end user could do unintentionally, it is quite important that they know the pins/legs are no longer in the capacitor, as it isn't something that any typical end user could cause, in addition to being the type of damage that, even if someone were tinkering with the board, wouldn't happen the way it has...

If Asus does not honor the warranty, then from there I would go to an electronics store, I am guessing whoever you find will get a good chuckle out of it, because it's just crazy... It really does take a good bit of force to remove a pin from a capacitor, let alone BOTH pins, AND leaving them still firmly planted within their soldered holes on the PCB!


----------



## Goggle Eye

Thank you for the information appreciate your help +1.







Called Asus USA and they did provide a case number very apologetic. Asus hands are tied in the USA new that. Was curious what they would say. Response was RMA if I could get the mother board in the USA. Shipping both ways plus import tax for get it. Try to find someone here to replace the capacitor or just run the mother board with out it if I cant get this resolved.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Thank you for the information appreciate your help +1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Called Asus USA and they did provide a case number very apologetic. Asus hands are tied in the USA new that. Was curious what they would say. Response was RMA if I could get the mother board in the USA. Shipping both ways plus import tax for get it. Try to find someone here to replace the capacitor or just run the mother board with out it if I cant get this resolved.


You are most welcome for the guidance, just wish that I could do more.

If you do decide to run it like that, I would strongly suggest to you that you be very careful about those pins, just be sure not to bump them and short them out... Maybe even use some electrical tape to cover them up just in case...

That being said, I presume you are in the military overseas... Where are you at? Maybe I can find a local store to do the repair...


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> You are most welcome for the guidance, just wish that I could do more.
> 
> If you do decide to run it like that, I would strongly suggest to you that you be very careful about those pins, just be sure not to bump them and short them out... Maybe even use some electrical tape to cover them up just in case...
> 
> That being said, I presume you are in the military overseas... Where are you at? Maybe I can find a local store to do the repair...


Appreciate the help you have already helped a lot. Will run the system the way it is until I get the final word from Asus Thailand. Found out today Asus Policy/Asia Thailand, Asus mother board is damaged it will void the warranty. Tech support is really trying to help with the issue with Asus Centre keeping my fingers crossed. Was in the USMC, on a medical discharge. My wife volunteers at a Mission they help keep children off the streets. Children alone on the streets here is "not a good situation for the children".

Thank You.
Larry


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> If one has the EKWB monoblock and decides to move the system back to air. What is a good heatsink/s to put on the mosfets above the CPU?
> 
> The stock heat pipe was broken to be able to put the I/O cover back on.
> 
> Thanks!!!


Anyone?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Anyone?


I wouldn't expect anyone to be selling the block unless they were also selling their board too. You may have better luck watching the "for sale" section of the forums.


----------



## pathfindercod

I have the board and mono block. I hate the whole system listed for sale on other forums, can't list anything here not enough "reps". But It seems the system is to in depth and I've had more request to make the system ari cooled. So i want to confer the board back to air. But the in the process of water cooling it and making the I/O cover useable I removed the heat pipe and it broke off ruining the connection to heatsink that goes on the mosfets. So i nee dot add aftermarket heatsinks to the mosfets..


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I have the board and mono block. I hate the whole system listed for sale on other forums, can't list anything here not enough "reps". But It seems the system is to in depth and I've had more request to make the system ari cooled. So i want to confer the board back to air. But the in the process of water cooling it and making the I/O cover useable I removed the heat pipe and it broke off ruining the connection to heatsink that goes on the mosfets. So i nee dot add aftermarket heatsinks to the mosfets..


Wow, my bad; I completely misread what you were asking.

I don't know of any VRM sinks that are designed for the RivBE so what you may end up having to do is re-attach the stock VRM sink and then use thermal tape and something like these or this to boost the stock sinks cooling capacity. To be safe you could add a small fan to blow air through them once they're affixed. Just make sure that when you're attaching the added heatsinks that they don't touch any caps, circuits, leads, etc.

Hope that helps.


----------



## reev3r

No problem. I really wish that I could do more to help...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I have the board and mono block. I hate the whole system listed for sale on other forums, can't list anything here not enough "reps". But It seems the system is to in depth and I've had more request to make the system ari cooled. So i want to confer the board back to air. But the in the process of water cooling it and making the I/O cover useable I removed the heat pipe and it broke off ruining the connection to heatsink that goes on the mosfets. So i nee dot add aftermarket heatsinks to the mosfets..


Personally I would measure the length and width of the area you need to cover, and check ebay for a heatsink that meets your needs... Although you won't find anything *exactly* the correct size, just use a rough measurement, like if it ends up being 72.5mm then just look for something 75~80mm instead... I would measure mine, but unfortunately I have an EK monoblock on it.

If you need any help beyond that let me know...

In addition, make sure you get a copper heatsink, since you don't have a heatpipe and the total surface area that the stock unit provided (Which still got pretty warm...), you'll need as much help ad you can get.

Another warning, be careful when it comes to thermal paste... You CAN NOT use normal paste, as the heatsink will fall off. As well, if you use 'normal' thermal adhesive, it is a permanent bond, and you'll not be able to remove the heatsink without doing some damage. I re moment using some thermal adhesive that is not permanent bonding, or buy some thermal tape. That is what I use, it is rather expensive, but I found some of eBay that isn't too bad, I use it to attach the temperature probes from my 10 probe temperature display to the components I'll be measuring and as long as you clean both surfaces sufficiently with rubbing alcohol it holds *really* well!

If you need I can send you the link to the thermal tape I purchased just let me know.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Wow, my bad; I completely misread what you were asking.
> 
> I don't know of any VRM sinks that are designed for the RivBE so what you may end up having to do is re-attach the stock VRM sink and then use thermal tape and something like these or this to boost the stock sinks cooling capacity. To be safe you could add a small fan to blow air through them once they're affixed. Just make sure that when you're attaching the added heatsinks that they don't touch any caps, circuits, leads, etc.
> 
> Hope that helps.


Which of those works best for the RIVBE?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> If you need I can send you the link to the thermal tape I purchased just let me know.


You could also post the link for the rest of us to use.... please!

I'm still on the shelf on how I am going to keep the northbridge cooled just yet. I want to get that one block that will keep both the CPU and the bridge cooled but it is to expensive for me right now. I just about have enough saved up for the GTX 980, so that is my current goal.

Bruce


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Which of those works best for the RIVBE?
> You could also post the link for the rest of us to use.... please!
> 
> I'm still on the shelf on how I am going to keep the northbridge cooled just yet. I r want to get that one block that will keep both the CPU and the bridge cooled but it is to expensive for me right now. I just about have enough saved up for the GTX 980, so that is my current goal.
> 
> Bruce


Okay, after checking ebay, the one I purchased is temporarily sold out. HERE is the link anyway. Alternatively, you can simply search eBay for Sekisui 5760, which is the brand and 'model' of thermal tape. You can find a 50meter roll for $15 (although it is only 5mm wide, you can get 10mm for $20).

Personally, I always do my search, sort by price, then change the location to US... It helps me find the cheapest in the states. Alternatively, if it is something where I don't care how long it takes to arrive, I just leave the location and sort by price...


----------



## Madmaxneo

It figures it is only available from Japan. I will keep an eye out for it. Though I am still looking at those water blocks that were posted a while back I recently re-examined them and I might go with the less expensive XPSC. Right now it is only $49.99 but I have to wait. OTH the heat sinks you listed are so much cheaper and so much easier to hook up. I wonder what the difference is between the waterblocks and the heatsinks for keeping the NB cool, and if it is actually worth the price difference.......


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Which of those works best for the RIVBE?
> You could also post the link for the rest of us to use.... please!
> 
> I'm still on the shelf on how I am going to keep the northbridge cooled just yet. I want to get that one block that will keep both the CPU and the bridge cooled but it is to expensive for me right now. I just about have enough saved up for the GTX 980, so that is my current goal.
> 
> Bruce


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It figures it is only available from Japan. I will keep an eye out for it. Though I am still looking at those water blocks that were posted a while back I recently re-examined them and I might go with the less expensive XPSC. Right now it is only $49.99 but I have to wait. OTH the heat sinks you listed are so much cheaper and so much easier to hook up. I wonder what the difference is between the waterblocks and the heatsinks for keeping the NB cool, and if it is actually worth the price difference.......


No, you're misunderstanding what I was telling Pathfinder. He doesn't have the stock cooler assembly intact and I was advising him to add those types of sinks onto the small part of the stock assembly. I'm not advising he use those sinks directly on the VRM area components.

You have to remember that the VRM area has 2 types of parts being cooled; the shorter chip-thingies and the taller ones. What I'm advising only expands the thermal dissipation capability (due to a lack of the I/O shield being connected via heatpipe), it isn't meant to replace that stock VRM sink itself.


----------



## MsNikita

<< deleted >>


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Hey guys, my +Additional Turbo Voltage suddenly stopped working. I have it set up with +offset & +additional turbo voltage, but a couple days ago I noticed that vcore (monitored by AIDA64) was lower than it should be. I did some investigating, and figured out that while my oc multiplier, VID, & basic +offset are intact and the chip is clocking up & down accordingly, it's not applying anything I put in Additional Turbo Voltage (the reported vcore is the same even if I turn turbo off in cpu settings).
> 
> I tried lowering the multiplier to x43 (which has always been a reliable "stock oc" for my chip), but again the bios applied +offset voltage, but no Additional Turbo Voltage.
> 
> Then I F5'ed and didn't touch anything, and at stock settings the chip goes into Turbo mode reporting 3900mhz (with Auto vcore, of course), so the all-core turbo feature of the bios seems to be working, but not in offset mode?
> 
> I can't for the life of me figure out what could be causing this when I haven't touched my bios settings in months, and my reported vcore has been reliably predictable for almost 2 years. At this point I'm guessing the bios image may have somehow gotten corrupted, but before I go re-flashing the bios image (which has proved problematic in the past), I was wondering if anybody has any ideas what else might be causing the board to ignore +Turbo voltage?


In case anybody else comes across this problem, after quite a lot of troubleshooting the bios, hardware, and OS, I determined that the culprit was Microsoft (as usual). For some reason, kb3000850 ("November 2014 update rollup for Windows RT 8.1, Windows 8.1, and Windows Server 2012 R2"), which was just re-released on April 23, 2015 with a new kbfix attached to fix a problem with the previous itteration's installation, causes my Windows 8.1 to lose Additional Turbo Voltage. I think it's messing with MEI's sense of the cpu's c-states. With the offending Windows Update rollup installed, I'm able to use Offset vcore in the usual way to achieve stable voltage, but it will NOT apply any "Additional Turbo Voltage". It seems logical to me that the problem would be Windows *REPORTING* of the voltage being applied, but it seems to be somehow actually BLOCKING the Additional Turbo Voltage from being applied as it BSODs if I attempt to run Cinebench or Realbench, whereas at my known stable voltage using ONLY vcore Offset (which is the same vcore my Offset + Additional Turbo Voltage should be applying if it were working properly) it's rock solid stable as it has been for years.

Notably, XTU still shows Turbo enabled and functioning AND shows the Additional Turbo Amount set per my bios/uefi instructions even though the Additional Turbo Voltage is not being applied. Perplexing.

Also, I can't for the life of me figure out what's different about my system that I seem to be the only person who's experienced this conflict. The only thing I can think of is that maybe Offset vcore + Additional Turbo Voltage with c-states & EIST enabled is an uncommon setup among Rampage Black users? Most people seem to use Offset vcore by itself and disable c-states. But I prefer to have mine tuned as tightly as possible to preserve my oc's performance AND my chip's lifespan.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/3000850 <--- *tl;dr:* USE kb3000850 WITH CAUTION


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> In case anybody else comes across this problem, after quite a lot of troubleshooting the bios, hardware, and OS, I determined that the culprit was Microsoft (as usual). For some reason, kb3000850 ("November 2014 update rollup for Windows RT 8.1, Windows 8.1, and Windows Server 2012 R2"), which was just re-released on April 23, 2015 with a new kbfix attached to fix a problem with the previous itteration's installation, causes my Windows 8.1 to lose Additional Turbo Voltage. I think it's messing with MEI's sense of the cpu's c-states. With the offending Windows Update rollup installed, I'm able to use Offset vcore in the usual way to achieve stable voltage, but it will NOT apply any "Additional Turbo Voltage". It seems logical to me that the problem would be Windows *REPORTING* of the voltage being applied, but it seems to be somehow actually BLOCKING the Additional Turbo Voltage from being applied as it BSODs if I attempt to run Cinebench or Realbench, whereas at my known stable voltage using ONLY vcore Offset (which is the same vcore my Offset + Additional Turbo Voltage should be applying if it were working properly) it's rock solid stable as it has been for years.
> 
> Notably, XTU still shows Turbo enabled and functioning AND shows the Additional Turbo Amount set per my bios/uefi instructions even though the Additional Turbo Voltage is not being applied. Perplexing.
> 
> Also, I can't for the life of me figure out what's different about my system that I seem to be the only person who's experienced this conflict. The only thing I can think of is that maybe Offset vcore + Additional Turbo Voltage with c-states & EIST enabled is an uncommon setup among Rampage Black users? Most people seem to use Offset vcore by itself and disable c-states. But I prefer to have mine tuned as tightly as possible to preserve my oc's performance AND my chip's lifespan.
> 
> https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/3000850 <--- *tl;dr:* USE kb3000850 WITH CAUTION


I hate to hear this your my hero you really helped me with my O.C.. Hope you get this worked out.,

Not sure what the issue would be due to my lack of experience.







Seems rather strange.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> I hate to hear this your my hero you really helped me with my O.C.. Hope you get this worked out.,
> 
> Not sure what the issue would be due to my lack of experience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems rather strange.


Thanks







As long as I don't install the offending MS update I'm all set. Stupid Windows.


----------



## theSuperman4war

http://imgur.com/f29qD


My rampage black project nearly complete


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Thinking of rebuilding my BE Chillputer setup today . All but two games I love are BSOD 124 @ stock settings ....... and I don't know why


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as I don't install the offending MS update I'm all set. Stupid Windows.


In Protest against Windows 8 or 10







Glad you got it worked out.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> In Protest against Windows 8 or 10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you got it worked out.


Yeah, after 2 years on Windows 8 I finally decided it's such a pain in the neck I set up dual boot with Windows 7. 8 still has all kinds of conflicts with 3d games, not to mention these mysterious updates that screw with my bios voltages (this isn't the first one!)

If Windows 10 disappoints I'll probably just move back to 7 as my primary OS.


----------



## reev3r

I refused to move to Windows 8 after the start menu debacle, as well as what I perceived as a complete asshatery involving their attempt to use essentially the same full OS for mobile and desktop systems. It irked me to no end, and I wasn't about to deal with the issues I KNOW would come along with all of that.

Turns out I was right all along. Here's to hoping that 10 will put a nail in that "every other release" goofery they have been screwing with all this time...


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I refused to move to Windows 8 after the start menu debacle, as well as what I perceived as a complete asshatery involving their attempt to use essentially the same full OS for mobile and desktop systems. It irked me to no end, and I wasn't about to deal with the issues I KNOW would come along with all of that.
> 
> Turns out I was right all along. Here's to hoping that 10 will put a nail in that "every other release" goofery they have been screwing with all this time...


They say 10 is to 8 as 7 was to Vista. In other words, 10 is supposedly all the things 8 should have been but wasn't.

HOWEVER... word on the street is the HPT timer "bug" persists, so there will be no official benchmarking allowed on 10. And there are still a lot of issues with 3d, which nvidia has long since stopped bothering to work on for their part. So I'm skeptical whether 10 will be of any use to me, either.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

How nice would it be to get a Dx12 update for 7? lol That would allow actual desktop users to not be forced to "upgrade" to 10 just for Dx12 functionality.


----------



## Mega Man

glad to hear !~~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> In Protest against Windows 8 or 10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you got it worked out.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, after 2 years on Windows 8 I finally decided it's such a pain in the neck I set up dual boot with Windows 7. 8 still has all kinds of conflicts with 3d games, not to mention these mysterious updates that screw with my bios voltages (this isn't the first one!)
> 
> If Windows 10 disappoints I'll probably just move back to 7 as my primary OS.
Click to expand...

i have never had any issues with any games
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I refused to move to Windows 8 after the start menu debacle, as well as what I perceived as a complete asshatery involving their attempt to use essentially the same full OS for mobile and desktop systems. It irked me to no end, and I wasn't about to deal with the issues I KNOW would come along with all of that.
> 
> Turns out I was right all along. Here's to hoping that 10 will put a nail in that "every other release" goofery they have been screwing with all this time...


meh 8 really wasnt bad, took a little extra getting used to, once done no big deal


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Thinking of rebuilding my BE Chillputer setup today . All but two games I love are BSOD 124 @ stock settings ....... and I don't know why


Okay, good thing to start with a clean install then.









I recently bought a second R9 290X and it just messed up my system (big time), ended with a BSOD before I took the card out, got missing dll-files and such after that, Raptr (somewhat) had missing dll-files, but today it got updated and worked.







Well, it will be new install sometime in the near future for me too and probably a new GPU.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> glad to hear !~~
> i have never had any issues with any games
> meh 8 really wasnt bad, took a little extra getting used to, once done no big deal


Microsoft Flight Simulator X with Windows 8 is a disaster.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> How nice would it be to get a Dx12 update for 7? lol That would allow actual desktop users to not be forced to "upgrade" to 10 just for Dx12 functionality.


Yeah, don't hold your breath, Microsoft wants nothing more than to get all of us on their latest platform again. So much so that they're GIVING AWAY Windows 10 for free.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> glad to hear !~~
> i have never had any issues with any games


The problem is more nvidia than microsoft. Stereoscopic 3d mode (nvidia 3d Vision) works differently in 8/8.1 than it does in 7, and nvidia hardly bothers with 3d driver tweaks anymore (they're more interested in 4K than stereoscopic now). The folks that do work out "unofficial" 3d patches often can't get them working in Windows 8 and just don't bother. I had to go back to Windows 7 to play DAI, it just doesn't work in 3d in 8/8.1.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> glad to hear !~~
> i have never had any issues with any games
> meh 8 really wasnt bad, took a little extra getting used to, once done no big deal


8 was terrible made vista look and feel good!!! ME was even better than 8!!!!!


----------



## Goggle Eye

Purchasing a new R4BE today to replace this R4BE (Capacitor came off). Got a very good deal decided to make the purchase. Should the chip set be up dated, windows installed all up dates and drivers. Or will it be good to go as is?

What is the best BIOS version for the R4BE? or just leave the BIOS alone if there isn't any issues?

Thank You
Larry


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, don't hold your breath, Microsoft wants nothing more than to get all of us on their latest platform again. So much so that they're GIVING AWAY Windows 10 for free.


Yeah, I know better than that. I'll grab my free copy of win10 but don't know if I'll actually use it right away.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Purchasing a new R4BE today to replace this R4BE (Capacitor came off). Got a very good deal decided to make the purchase. Should the chip set be up dated, windows installed all up dates and drivers. Or will it be good to go as is?
> 
> What is the best BIOS version for the R4BE? or just leave the BIOS alone if there isn't any issues?
> 
> Thank You
> Larry


The BE only has one version afaik so nothing should need changing.

Latest full version is 0701 but there is a later beta 0801 which adds increased ram capacity.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Yeah, I know better than that. I'll grab my free copy of win10 but don't know if I'll actually use it right away.
> Latest full version is 0701 but there is a later beta 0801 which adds increased ram capacity.


Sadly from what I have read it wont be that easy I want to do the same but might not be possible. From what I have read you cant just get a product key you have to do a windows update upgrade to windows 10 which is ridiculous haven't they ever heard of a clean install lol. Hopefully thats not the case but everything I have read says no product key no getting it and waiting to move over its update or buy it later.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Thank You SpecTre.







Running version 0801 I see what BIOS version think will stay with 0701
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Yeah, I know better than that. I'll grab my free copy of win10 but don't know if I'll actually use it right away.
> The BE only has one version afaik so nothing should need changing.
> 
> Latest full version is 0701 but there is a later beta 0801 which adds increased ram capacity.


This BIOS version is 0801 up dated it. Stay with the BIOS Version 0701 on the new R4BE and call it good.

Thank You
Larry


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Sadly from what I have read it wont be that easy I want to do the same but might not be possible. From what I have read you cant just get a product key you have to do a windows update upgrade to windows 10 which is ridiculous haven't they ever heard of a clean install lol. Hopefully thats not the case but everything I have read says no product key no getting it and waiting to move over its update or buy it later.


That is easily bypassed though; simply do a fresh install of 7/8 on a spare drive, install whatever required updates, then do the win10 upgrade. After all that clone the install and archive it. It's easy enough to deploy it after that and only takes a few steps more if deploying to dissimilar hardware.

Unless you could only get/use it if you were required to remain logged into some kind of MS account that isn't such a big deal I think. If the free version requires an account or lacks features the full version includes I wouldn't get it. If the full version also required you to always be logged into an online account then I'd be skipping 10 entirely and forsake Dx12 until that requirement was removed or an OS that didn't require it came out..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Thank You SpecTre.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running version 0801 I see what BIOS version think will stay with 0701
> This BIOS version is 0801 up dated it. Stay with the BIOS Version 0701 on the new R4BE and call it good.
> 
> Thank You
> Larry


Any time, the only real need to run 801 over 701 is if you're one who needs the extra ram capacity. Other than that I doubt the former adds anything to the latter. I flashed to 0801 when I got my board because it was the latest and can't be bothered to flash to 701 now even though I'm only running 16gb of ram.

Anyway, glad I could help!


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> That is easily bypassed though; simply do a fresh install of 7/8 on a spare drive, install whatever required updates, then do the win10 upgrade. After all that clone the install and archive it. It's easy enough to deploy it after that and only takes a few steps more if deploying to dissimilar hardware.
> 
> Unless you could only get/use it if you were required to remain logged into some kind of MS account that isn't such a big deal I think. If the free version requires an account or lacks features the full version includes I wouldn't get it. If the full version also required you to always be logged into an online account then I'd be skipping 10 entirely and forsake Dx12 until that requirement was removed or an OS that didn't require it came out..
> Any time, the only real need to run 801 over 701 is if you're one who needs the extra ram capacity. Other than that I doubt the former adds anything to the latter. I flashed to 0801 when I got my board because it was the latest and can't be bothered to flash to 701 now even though I'm only running 16gb of ram.
> 
> Anyway, glad I could help!


My need would be for dissimilar hardware so what then? Install the drivers for the other PC before cloning?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

From my understanding the OS installs drivers for the CPU and other very low level parts while installing and those would need to be corrected once the clone is deployed to the dissimilar hardware. Mind you this is like different mobo/cpu. For something like ram or a gfx card this doesn't apply afaik.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> From my understanding the OS installs drivers for the CPU and other very low level parts while installing and those would need to be corrected once the clone is deployed to the dissimilar hardware. Mind you this is like different mobo/cpu. For something like ram or a gfx card this doesn't apply afaik.


Yes understood and agreed. However how do you correct the dissimilar hardware issue? I would need to go from a cheap sandy bridge pentium laptop to my RIVBE with a i7 that's extremely different hardware lol. This would be a lot easier if they would just give us a product key...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I thought I still had that program floating around one of my drives but I guess not. It was an older program from 2005 or 2006 but worked really well. It seems that a lot of the popular imagining software like Macrium and Acronis have dissimilar redeploy features but the Macrium features didn't work for my upgrade; which is how I found what I used. I'll keep looking for the name and post back if I find it.

I also agree that a key would be much simpler.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> My need would be for dissimilar hardware so what then? Install the drivers for the other PC before cloning?


Acronis TrueImage 2015 has pretty straightforward procedures for restoring to a backup to dissimilar hardware (i.e. mbr to gpt uefi drive, etc). I've personally found its backup and restore functions very reliable (I tinker with my system a lot, so it's not unusual for me to restore to an incremental backup every few weeks).

***disclaimer: the Acronis cloud service that is built in to TrueImage, though, has been a major headache; I ended up having to disable several Acronis drivers in Windows Services to get them to stop locking up my system with constant errors, and Acronis customer support is beyond useless. YMMV.


----------



## Mega Man

does anyone else hate linus

i swear he is the the MOST SPOILED brat out there, he has a few good reviews. but he is a huge fanboy and i have heard several missinformations from him in a few different reviews






he got 9k in cpus just because ....

dont get me wrong, good for him, but still...... jealous


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Thinking of rebuilding my BE Chillputer setup today . All but two games I love are BSOD 124 @ stock settings ....... and I don't know why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, good thing to start with a clean install then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently bought a second R9 290X and it just messed up my system (big time), ended with a BSOD before I took the card out, got missing dll-files and such after that, Raptr (somewhat) had missing dll-files, but today it got updated and worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, it will be new install sometime in the near future for me too and probably a new GPU.
Click to expand...

Well I didn't need to break her down .








Turns out I just needed to get the latest amd driver for my 290's .
All of my games are running sweet @7800x1440p @ stock TRI 290 clocks ( 1000/1250 ) .

4960x is running at ...



http://valid.x86.fr/i7m6nd









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Purchasing a new R4BE today to replace this R4BE (Capacitor came off). Got a very good deal decided to make the purchase. Should the chip set be up dated, windows installed all up dates and drivers. Or will it be good to go as is?
> 
> What is the best BIOS version for the R4BE? or just leave the BIOS alone if there isn't any issues?
> 
> Thank You
> Larry


Leave it be . That's my








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> does anyone else hate linus
> 
> i swear he is the the MOST SPOILED brat out there, he has a few good reviews. but he is a huge fanboy and i have heard several missinformations from him in a few different reviews
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he got 9k in cpus just because ....
> 
> dont get me wrong, good for him, but still...... jealous


He reminds me of that minecraft reviewer / player .......


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Well I didn't need to break her down .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turns out I just needed to get the latest amd driver for my 290's .
> All of my games are running sweet @7800x1440p @ stock TRI 290 clocks ( 1000/1250 ) .
> 
> 4960x is running at ...
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/i7m6nd


That is good news!









My R9 290X Lightning will be replaced by two EVGA GTX 970 SSC I got on sale the other day ... thinking of getting a cheap set of Corsair Dominator Platinum (32GB) to add to my four sticks, eight sticks looks better, but I guess I would need to add some voltage to my 4930K then ... running 4,5 Ghz @ 1,2 volts now, rock solid and cold as well. Have you ever used 32GB/48GB on this board?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> That is good news!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My R9 290X Lightning will be replaced by two EVGA GTX 970 SSC I got on sale the other day ... thinking of getting a cheap set of Corsair Dominator Platinum (32GB) to add to my four sticks, eight sticks looks better, but I guess I would need to add some voltage to my 4930K then ... running 4,5 Ghz @ 1,2 volts now, rock solid and cold as well. Have you ever used 32GB/48GB on this board?


No no no, never mix memory kits. Either buy a 32gb kit, or keep your current kit, but do not try to mix them together - that's asking for trouble. Kits of ram are specifically tuned to work together (i.e. secondary & tertiary timings and voltages), so even if two separate kits are rated for the same speed, they're not necessarily rated for the same timings & voltages. You COULD get lucky and get two kits that happen to work together, but it's more likely you'd get seemingly random crashes & instability because of subtle and tiny ram differences.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> No no no, never mix memory kits. Either buy a 32gb kit, or keep your current kit, but do not try to mix them together - that's asking for trouble. Kits of ram are specifically tuned to work together (i.e. secondary & tertiary timings and voltages), so even if two separate kits are rated for the same speed, they're not necessarily rated for the same timings & voltages. You COULD get lucky and get two kits that happen to work together, but it's more likely you'd get seemingly random crashes & instability because of subtle and tiny ram differences.


I know it MIGHT cause some problems, I have used mis-matched RAM kit on my RIVBE before and it was no problem. The sticks I currently have is 2400Mhz C9, but I run them at 1866 @ 1,5v with 9-9-9-24 (or 27) I cannot remember right now. If the sticks is rated 1866Mhz I think they should work, but I have to wait to hear what the seller says ... I did not say I was going to purchase it, I just said I was thinking on doing it.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Mixing kits a low speeds like 1866Mhz should work. High speeds becomes an issue.


----------



## Inso-Thinktank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> does anyone else hate linus
> 
> i swear he is the the MOST SPOILED brat out there, he has a few good reviews. but he is a huge fanboy and i have heard several missinformations from him in a few different reviews
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he got 9k in cpus just because ....
> 
> dont get me wrong, good for him, but still...... jealous


Yea, your jealous because your calling him a spoiled brat.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> That is good news!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My R9 290X Lightning will be replaced by two EVGA GTX 970 SSC I got on sale the other day ... thinking of getting a cheap set of Corsair Dominator Platinum (32GB) to add to my four sticks, eight sticks looks better, but I guess I would need to add some voltage to my 4930K then ... running 4,5 Ghz @ 1,2 volts now, rock solid and cold as well. Have you ever used 32GB/48GB on this board?


Agree 100 percent you cannot mix kits even if the part number is the same. Currious why you need 32 Gb or 48 Gb of memory? 16 Gbs for video editing huge files. For gaming 8 Gbs. No and I never will install 32 GB or 48 Gbs of memory not required for the apps run on this system. Would prefer a higher O.C. and take care of the CPU. More memory will put more strain on the CPU IMC. To be honest for looks that is Non Since.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> does anyone else hate linus
> 
> i swear he is the the MOST SPOILED brat out there, he has a few good reviews. but he is a huge fanboy and i have heard several missinformations from him in a few different reviews
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he got 9k in cpus just because ....
> 
> dont get me wrong, good for him, but still...... jealous


This is not a mear 1,000 dollar pesant CPU. What an ass hat, lol!


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> does anyone else hate linus
> 
> i swear he is the the MOST SPOILED brat out there, he has a few good reviews. but he is a huge fanboy and i have heard several missinformations from him in a few different reviews
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he got 9k in cpus just because ....
> 
> dont get me wrong, good for him, but still...... jealous


No I don't watch his videos and I am not interested in his opinion. If I need help with a computer issue I ask at OCN if it is hardware related period. Never been given miss information yet and or a bunch of Non Since. Learned to say Non Since A Long Time Ago instead Of Bull Poopy Chips.







The recommendations have been very helpful over the years.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i didn't even have audio and he seems like an overwhelmingly douchey person...

So how do those chips oc?
Are the cores unlocked?
what was the IMC like?
I don't care what some idiot whose after a few cpu core tick increases thinks. I want some data about the IMC limits the core uncore efficiency and its scaling are. Once I get my camera, I am gonna end up doing semi legit reviews. All i have is a cell phone camera and no one would want to see that.

I guess these people are gtting paid or compensated by a company to waste 90% of their videos talking up the useless features though.

Does anyone know of a review site thats actually critical of a product? Seems like everyone is riding di ck these days. Or just too overwhelmed with the hardware,
I guess there are a few good sites out there, but since OCN won't let people link their reviews I guess they don't get brought to my attention

I dunno I am good on x99 for a while. I got some spicey ram on the way, already have nice ram, getting moar , soc champ, I am trading away my RVE right now, selling my OCF, I have a chip that does 5.6 and 5ghz uncore. and super low volts for daily. does 4.6 @ 1.27 I think

RVE is nice board but soc champion is better, you just have to know ram and uncore


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Agree 100 percent you cannot mix kits even if the part number is the same. Currious why you need 32 Gb or 48 Gb of memory? 16 Gbs for video editing huge files. For gaming 8 Gbs. No and I never will install 32 GB or 48 Gbs of memory not required for the apps run on this system. Would prefer a higher O.C. and take care of the CPU. More memory will put more strain on the CPU IMC. To be honest for looks that is Non Since.


^^This. Back in the day, there was a valid argument for ramdisk partitions, but now that SSDs are as advanced AND affordable as they are, IMHO anything beyond 16gb of ram is just putting undue stress on your cpu. Just my 2 cents, though.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I have hit limits with my 16GB on x99
I was amazed, it fills surprisingly fast if you are using 64bit programs


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> does anyone else hate linus
> 
> i swear he is the the MOST SPOILED brat out there, he has a few good reviews. but he is a huge fanboy and i have heard several missinformations from him in a few different reviews
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he got 9k in cpus just because ....
> 
> dont get me wrong, good for him, but still...... jealous


He does come off as a bit of a ****. He's excited about a server cpu so he tries it in a consumer board under a consumer environment. He'd of been better off waiting for his server board to arrive so he could highlight its uses in a server environment. What consumer would be stupid enough to waste money on this kind of chip by putting it in a consumer board? The "1,000 peasant dollars" comment doesn't help him either.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I have hit limits with my 16GB on x99
> I was amazed, it fills surprisingly fast if you are using 64bit programs


Yeah, been there too.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inso-Thinktank*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> does anyone else hate linus
> 
> i swear he is the the MOST SPOILED brat out there, he has a few good reviews. but he is a huge fanboy and i have heard several missinformations from him in a few different reviews
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he got 9k in cpus just because ....
> 
> _*dont get me wrong, good for him*_, but still...... jealous
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, your jealous because your calling him a spoiled brat.
Click to expand...

sorry i dont get your point ? arent you? dont you want 9k in free cpus ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> does anyone else hate linus
> 
> i swear he is the the MOST SPOILED brat out there, he has a few good reviews. but he is a huge fanboy and i have heard several missinformations from him in a few different reviews
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he got 9k in cpus just because ....
> 
> dont get me wrong, good for him, but still...... jealous
> 
> 
> 
> This is not a mear 1,000 dollar pesant CPU. What an ass hat, lol!
Click to expand...

hehehehe
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> does anyone else hate linus
> 
> i swear he is the the MOST SPOILED brat out there, he has a few good reviews. but he is a huge fanboy and i have heard several missinformations from him in a few different reviews
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he got 9k in cpus just because ....
> 
> dont get me wrong, good for him, but still...... jealous
> 
> 
> 
> No I don't watch his videos and I am not interested in his opinion. If I need help with a computer issue I ask at OCN if it is hardware related period. Never been given miss information yet and or a bunch of Non Since. Learned to say Non Since A Long Time Ago instead Of Bull Poopy Chips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recommendations have been very helpful over the years.
Click to expand...

well i like to try to keep up and i do watch reviews, although i dont get advice from him i saw that in an email youtube sent me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Agree 100 percent you cannot mix kits even if the part number is the same. Currious why you need 32 Gb or 48 Gb of memory? 16 Gbs for video editing huge files. For gaming 8 Gbs. No and I never will install 32 GB or 48 Gbs of memory not required for the apps run on this system. Would prefer a higher O.C. and take care of the CPU. More memory will put more strain on the CPU IMC. To be honest for looks that is Non Since.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^This. Back in the day, there was a valid argument for ramdisk partitions, but now that SSDs are as advanced AND affordable as they are, IMHO anything beyond 16gb of ram is just putting undue stress on your cpu. Just my 2 cents, though.
Click to expand...

there are several GREAT reasons for ram disks

one large one is stuff like video/picture editing,

ram is still far faster then ssd


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> I have hit limits with my 16GB on x99
> I was amazed, it fills surprisingly fast if you are using 64bit programs


16GB on X99? What kind of human are you? ;-)


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Agree 100 percent you cannot mix kits even if the part number is the same. Currious why you need 32 Gb or 48 Gb of memory? 16 Gbs for video editing huge files. For gaming 8 Gbs. No and I never will install 32 GB or 48 Gbs of memory not required for the apps run on this system. Would prefer a higher O.C. and take care of the CPU. More memory will put more strain on the CPU IMC. To be honest for looks that is Non Since.


Eh, you do not agree 100 percent with me by saying "cannot mix kits", I have done it and it worked great ... so, have you even tried it?









For 350 USD I can be a little stupid just for looks, my CPU is low binned so there should not be a big problem adding a little more ram, 16GB is not way too much either ... 8GB is not enough for gaming, not at all ... 16GB is a must in a gaming rig, at least by my standards. I would probably make a RAM-disk out of 32GB of the ram if I add 32GB, my games is on a 256GB SSD so tossing a few of those games over on the RAM-disk should move thing along nicely.

And if we shall start taking about wasting money ... well, that ship has sailed, bud, a long time ago too.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> ^^This. Back in the day, there was a valid argument for ramdisk partitions, but now that SSDs are as advanced AND affordable as they are, IMHO anything beyond 16gb of ram is just putting undue stress on your cpu. Just my 2 cents, though.


I disagree, I slog thr9ugh 32GB with Chr9me tabs alone... Surely the exception thought.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Eh, you do not agree 100 percent with me by saying "cannot mix kits", I have done it and it worked great ... so, have you even tried it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes sir I have tried combining kits same part number with 2 kits. Once on a X-58 Asus R3BE. The system acted rather strange when typing on a key board and or running apps. I ended up purchasing a new kit. It may work four out of five times not 100 percent of the time. When I built this system could not find a G-Skill Quad Kit 16 GBs Z series 2133 Mhz. Asus R4BE board. Contacted G-Skill Tech Support concerning combining 2 x 8 Gb Kits. Tech Support. confirmed not to combine 2 kits. The 2 kits have not been tested can cause issues strongly advised against combining 2 kits. . That sir is why I imported the Kit.
> 
> For 350 USD I can be a little stupid just for looks, my CPU is low binned so there should not be a big problem adding a little more ram, 16GB is not way too much either ... 8GB is not enough for gaming, not at all ... 16GB is a must in a gaming rig, at least by my standards. I would probably make a RAM-disk out of 32GB of the ram if I add 32GB, my games is on a 256GB SSD so tossing a few of those games over on the RAM-disk should move thing along nicely.
> 
> And if we shall start taking about wasting money ... well, that ship has sailed, bud, a long time ago too.


Yes I have wasted money as well building systems by over purchasing hardware and that was Non Since on my part. You asked if anyone had installed a 32 Gb Kit. it implies you wanted opinions. I stated my Honest Opinion based on my experience and from information have read. As far as concerning combining kits I will take the advice of G-Skill. After all they MFG the memory and I am certain they have a technical advantage. It is your money not up to me how to advise you on how to spend your money.

Thank You


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Yes I have wasted money as well building systems by over purchasing hardware and that was Non Since on my part. You asked if anyone had installed a 32 Gb Kit. it implies you wanted opinions. I stated my Honest Opinion based on my experience and from information have read. As far as concerning combining kits I will take the advice of G-Skill. After all they MFG the memory and I am certain they have a technical advantage. It is your money not up to me how to advise you on how to spend your money.
> 
> Thank You


This is true. I like SLI in my system, despite its ocassional functional problems, simply because I think it looks better. Not that anybody but ME is looking at my system, but still. lol

"You're so vain. I bet you think this system is about you."


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> This is true. I like SLI in my system, despite its ocassional functional problems, simply because I think it looks better. Not that anybody but ME is looking at my system, but still. lol
> 
> "You're so vain. I bet you think this system is about you."


You think that's bad, I think 3-way looks nice and now can't upgrade unless I get 3 cards xD

By the way, I love that song!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> You think that's bad, I think 3-way looks nice and now can't upgrade unless I get 3 cards xD
> 
> By the way, I love that song!


LOL! I know, it's like 1 lonely little gpu in my high end system just looks silly -- like driving a Mercedes wearing drug store sunglasses. lol


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> This is true. I like SLI in my system, despite its ocassional functional problems, simply because I think it looks better. Not that anybody but ME is looking at my system, but still. lol
> 
> "You're so vain. I bet you think this system is about you."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You think that's bad, I think 3-way looks nice and now can't upgrade unless I get 3 cards xD
> 
> By the way, I love that song!
Click to expand...

i feel the same about 4way, and i prefer blower style shrouds/ waterblocks when done right


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I'm almost expect someone to start talking about their 8 way farming setup now lol


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Yes I have wasted money as well building systems by over purchasing hardware and that was Non Since on my part. You asked if anyone had installed a 32 Gb Kit. it implies you wanted opinions. I stated my Honest Opinion based on my experience and from information have read. As far as concerning combining kits I will take the advice of G-Skill. After all they MFG the memory and I am certain they have a technical advantage. It is your money not up to me how to advise you on how to spend your money.
> 
> Thank You


Okay, got what you are saying, still a little on the side of what I asked, but whatever. My point was just that it is not recommended to use mis-matched kits, but it is not impossible ... MrTooShort did answer my question and as long as he say it will probably work then it is good enough for me, I am not going to take it out on anyone else than myself (which I am okay with).









I have never owned X58, that board might have been picky on the RAM too, but my experience is that it will be a problem if there is some other problems into the mix ... like faulty motherboard or drivers not working 100% as they should.

Thank you, anyways.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, got what you are saying, still a little on the side of what I asked, but whatever. My point was just that it is not recommended to use mis-matched kits, but it is not impossible ... MrTooShort did answer my question and as long as he say it will probably work then it is good enough for me, I am not going to take it out on anyone else than myself (which I am okay with).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have never owned X58, that board might have been picky on the RAM too, but my experience is that it will be a problem if there is some other problems into the mix ... like faulty motherboard or drivers not working 100% as they should.
> 
> Thank you, anyways.


First off in my original reply I should not have said Non Since that was a very bad call on my part and I apologize. Not going to make some lame excuse.

This is what I can tell you. Am not an engineer based on my experience. Had a Asus R3BE with a I 7 980X and a Asus Rampage 2 extreme system. Memory was Corsair Dominator 1600 MHz on both systems. Broke down the R 2 E system and added the memory to the R3BE system. Created issues I do not remember all of the issues it was in 2009. Did not test the memory before hand or after words. When typing on the key board the system was not stable. Contacted Asus and the tech thought it was a memory issue. I called Corsair and explained the issue with the system and combining the memory. The memory was the same part number. Corsair replaced both kits for one kit. Resolved the issues with the system.

On this system paid to have a company build the system liquid cooled was Non Since on my part. (After 9 months the system was not finished. The build was garbage) They installed 4 Kits 8 GB each, 2400 Mhz Team Extreme. Did the system boot to windows yes. I 7 4930K needed 1.50v V-Core for a 4.6 Ghz 24/7 is Non Since. Installed G-Skill 2133 MHz 16 GB Kit same I7 4930K clocked to 4.4 Ghz 1.30 V-Core, 4.5 Ghz at 1.33v and 4.6 Ghz at 1.42v

From what I have read at OCN and in this forum it was recommended by a OCN member to use a G-Skill Z series 2133 Mhz kit.

After reading about memory and mixing kits on OCN from what can figure out will it work. Yes sir best guess is four out of five times not 100 percent of the time.

Really hope mixing the kits works out for you.

Thank You

Larry


----------



## chrisnyc75

Yeah, it should work, but you may have trouble min/max'ing the settings. In my experience, it's when you try to push the clock to its highest and the voltages to their lowest that subtle hardware differences like those found in unmatched ram kits come to light. It can be hard enough to identify the source of instability on hardware that IS binned to work together, I've found firsthand that instability due to ram kits that are NOT binned to work together can be absolutely insidious. Of course, as always, YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY.


----------



## reev3r

Well, for those interested, I am finally making progress on the physical aspect of my 10-probe digital temperature display/graph unit! I think I may end up needing some longer m3-.5 screws, but for the time being these will do.

Unfortunately, I ended up needing some help programming the unit, so I went to ODesk/Upwork, and hired a fella to finalize the bits I could not get sorted, unfortunately I lost communication with him for the last month... Sadly, me being me I am not one to leave negative feedback if I can EVER avoid it... Fortunately, after about a dozen messages asking for him to contact me he finally responded when I threatened to leave negative feedback. So hopefully, all of the software end of it should be complete within the next few days.

So I have the unit mounted in its enclosure, and I have the custom length temperature probe jumpers cables all wired up (well, I have all of the 3-pin [Think fan header] connectors crimped and on that is)...

The only remaining bits are getting the breakout board all soldered and finalized (kind of a PITA in truth), and then getting it all wired into my rig...

These last bits are the parts that will make this slightly more difficult than plug and play for anybody that is at all interested in one of these units... Without physically being present I can not easily make custom length cables for you, nor can I troubleshoot any potential problems... Additionally, renaming the probes will be a nightmare (well, not necessarily THAT bad, but it isn't going to be awesome) for those that don't intend t o monitor the same locations as I am...

All of that being said, for those of you that can handle a bit of measuring/wiring things up, and don't mind a product that isn't manufactured with precision, but will cost you orders of magnitude less than ANY other hardware temperature monitoring solution (How much would it cost to monitor 10 temperature probes with an Aquaero? Can that even be done, come to think of it???)

Even though it will arrive ready to install, it still IS NOT a device for the novice users out there, and definitely falls under the 'modder/tinkerer' envelope of users...

With all of that in mind, and for those of you still interested, please shoot me a PM and let me know that you want one. I expect to start 'production' between this weekend and mid next week. I expect the price to be ~$75 (depending on the actual cost of components and your preferences, given the fluctuations in cost and what 'bulk' value I can get the parts). I suspect $75 to be close to the highest it will cost, with $45 being the lowest I have priced it out at, however, at the $45 price I would be taking a bit of a loss, so I will be attempting to avoid that.

For those of you interested, please PM me with the following information:

All 10 probe names/locations
Itemized list of probe locations and the length of cable for each run, i.e. Intake: 24", Coolant: 18", Pump 1: 20", PSU: 8" and so on... Make sure to be loose with your measurements, so if you measure it precisely and find it is a 20" run, then list it as 23" or so, just to be certain you have some extra in case you decide to move it, or something gets in the way of the run you had planned... Alternatively, if you plan to mount the breakout board (the board that goes between the display/controller and the actual probes) in a central location, you can just get a length that will work for all the probes and I can make all of the jumper cables that length...

Photograph of the touchscreen/controller in the enclosure:


Photograph of the jumper wires I had to make:


----------



## reev3r

So, I have to ask, I see a lot of people posting about all of these 'problems' with SLI... However, my current implementation of my rig is the first time I WASN'T running SLI since it first came out (Well, thereabouts anyway, on an A8N-SLI Deluxe - No Premium at that time, but I upgraded once it came out, and I STILL have that board and it works great!), and I have never, not once, had a single issue with SLI...

So, with that in mind, can someone please share with me the 'issues' everyone seems to be having? Is this something with recent architectures (I was last running 2x670 FTW cards on this same board, tossed those for a 970 G1 Gaming), because as stated, in the last 10+ years of SLI-ing it up, I have not experienced a single issue that wasn't also present with a single card...

Thanks gals and guys!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> So, I have to ask, I see a lot of people posting about all of these 'problems' with SLI... However, my current implementation of my rig is the first time I WASN'T running SLI since it first came out (Well, thereabouts anyway, on an A8N-SLI Deluxe - No Premium at that time, but I upgraded once it came out, and I STILL have that board and it works great!), and I have never, not once, had a single issue with SLI...
> 
> So, with that in mind, can someone please share with me the 'issues' everyone seems to be having? Is this something with recent architectures (I was last running 2x670 FTW cards on this same board, tossed those for a 970 G1 Gaming), because as stated, in the last 10+ years of SLI-ing it up, I have not experienced a single issue that wasn't also present with a single card...
> 
> Thanks gals and guys!


I've run multiple cards in SLI since the 8800 (10 years ago?) and honestly never had any problems until recently. What I'm finding nowdays is that many games have texture problems in SLI. A perfect example is Dragon Age Inquisition. I havent done lots of research into it, but in my system DAI renders lots of black textures with SLI enabled; turn OFF sli and everything renders correctly again. Same for WoW for at least the last 5 nvidia driver itterations (though I haven't played in the last 5 or 6 months)

There are also loads of problems with SLI vs 3d Vision, though at this point I'm one of the last few people still trying to use 3d Vision so that's not necessarily pertinent for most.

Given my recent experiences with SLI, I'd probably lean towards a single-card setup for my next build..... though I'd still be hard-pressed to give up the aesthetic of the SLI setup. lol


----------



## Mega Man

i doubt that newegg had a sale on the kit for 40, and it sold out in a few hours


----------



## skynet2k8

4.8 gigahertz stable 24/7 wow that's amazing average temperature is 65 degrees Celsius


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mega Man

by stable do you mean gaming stable ? as i assume it is as you posted a pic of cinebench ?

or 100% stable ?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skynet2k8*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.8 gigahertz stable 24/7 wow that's amazing average temperature is 65 degrees Celsius
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


4,8 Ghz at 1,5 v is not too bad (it is not good/great either), but I would not have used that for 24/7 usage. I would say maximum 1,4 volts for 24/7 usage (with good WC), personally I do not go above 1,3 volts.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> 4,8 Ghz at 1,5 v is not too bad (it is not good/great either), but I would not have used that for 24/7 usage. I would say maximum 1,4 volts for 24/7 usage (with good WC), personally I do not go above 1,3 volts.


Yeah, if you're stable at 4.8ghz @1.5v, you'd probably be 100% stable at 4.6ghz around 1.35v, like me. I wouldn't quite call it a "golden chip", but it's certainly well above average. I'd be careful with it if I were you, reserve that 4.8ghz voltage for benching and use the much safer 4.6ghz settings for 24/7. Just my 2 cents though.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, if you're stable at 4.8ghz @1.5v, you'd probably be 100% stable at 4.6ghz around 1.35v, like me. I wouldn't quite call it a "golden chip", but it's certainly well above average. I'd be careful with it if I were you, reserve that 4.8ghz voltage for benching and use the much safer 4.6ghz settings for 24/7. Just my 2 cents though.


I have 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38 volts stable, 4,7 Ghz @ 1,3 volts stable, 4,5 Ghz @ 1,2 volts stable. Right now I do not see the reason to push further than 4,5 Ghz, because I just have one GPU in my system, my chip is quite good though, been benched by Jpmboy at 5Ghz with voltage around 1,4 volts with 2400 Mhz ram. It also does 4875 Mhz @ 1,36 volts with 2333 Mhz ram, but I have no reason to push either my chip or ram beyond 4,5 Ghz and 1866 Mhz as of today.







I pushed my previously 3930K to 4,6 Ghz @ 1,45 volts and no problem really, it was around 70C on water, but it is better to have a suiteable chip for higher clocks.







One of the reasons I do not have 5960X now is because of my good 4930K-chip, very slight chance that I will get a Haswell-E that is as good as my 4930K.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38 volts stable, 4,7 Ghz @ 1,3 volts stable, 4,5 Ghz @ 1,2 volts stable. Right now I do not see the reason to push further than 4,5 Ghz, because I just have one GPU in my system, my chip is quite good though, been benched by Jpmboy at 5Ghz with voltage around 1,4 volts with 2400 Mhz ram. It also does 4875 Mhz @ 1,36 volts with 2333 Mhz ram,


Yeah, that's a *Golden Chip*







Congrats


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Yeah thats probably gold. FYI gold is 5ghz at under 1.4 my chip that needs 1.38 for 4.9 does 5 with 1.42 so u should have one
As far as 3930k go. I think 1.45 is the 4930k ceiling. My gold 4930k was a freezey chip


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Yeah thats probably gold. FYI gold is 5ghz at under 1.4 my chip that needs 1.38 for 4.9 does 5 with 1.42 so u should have one
> As far as 3930k go. I think 1.45 is the 4930k ceiling. My gold 4930k was a freezey chip


I've only ever heard of ONE 4930k that could do 5.0ghz at 1.4~v, and I was dubious of that claim. When it comes to IB-e, I think 4.8ghz is about the best you can hope for.... and if it will do 5.0ghz at ANY voltage it's basically a winner. SB-e overclocked much better than IB-e.

Personally, I feel like I kinda hit a winner with a 4930k that can do 4.7ghz @ 1.43ish volts. So much so that I tend to keep it clocked down to 4.6ghz most of the time because I'm scared of running it above 1.4v for any length of time. God knows any replacement chip would surely be locked at 4.2ghz at 1.4v. lol


----------



## NE0XY

So... uhm... I accientally broke of the PCI e 3.0 clip thingy. How screwed am I? It only functions as to hold the card in place right?
Since it's screwed in at the back it should be fine right? And I'm watercooling to the tube should hold it in place?

What would you recommend?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> So... uhm... I accientally broke of the PCI e 3.0 clip thingy. How screwed am I? It only functions as to hold the card in place right?
> Since it's screwed in at the back it should be fine right? And I'm watercooling to the tube should hold it in place?
> 
> What would you recommend?


The clip itself only serves to hold the card absolutely locked in to the slot. The problem is, a loose or even slightly unseated gpu can cause catastrophic failure of the system (as in electrical short, etc). While the weight of the cards -- especially with waterblocks & sli connector etc -- might serve to your advantage in holding the setup in place, it could also slowly weigh the rig down until one day suddenly the pins aren't making contact anymore and you have a real problem on your hands.

I assume the second card is still locked in place by its slot's clip? If your setup is anything like mine, the gpu "apparatus" is rock solid and functions as a single block of hardware, so the secondary clip might just be enough to hold the weight of the whole thing absolutely still. Or it might not. ?

Which one is yours, the rigig acrylic tubes or the pcv? If it's the rigid acrylic you might be good just with the support of the tubes. If it's the flexible I personally wouldn't trust *any* weight on the tubing, the last thing you want is the tubes being pushed or pulled in any direction supporting any weight at all - that's a recipe for disaster.


----------



## skynet2k8

It's not at 1.504 volts it's really at 1.480 volts CPU load line calibration is set at Ultra High I have excellent water cooling average temperatures are 68 degrees Celsius


----------



## skynet2k8

100-percent stable


----------



## skynet2k8

100% stable


----------



## skynet2k8

Definitely a golden chip but do you have proof?


----------



## skynet2k8

You're right maybe I should do 4.6 gigahertz 24/7 the only reason I was running at 4.8 was because my chip never got hot at 1.48 volts maybe I will scale back a little to see how far my temperatures drop


----------



## skynet2k8

You're absolutely right I can never get it stable at 5.0 ghz no matter what I did 4.7ghz-4.8ghz is excellent for this processors


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> The clip itself only serves to hold the card absolutely locked in to the slot. The problem is, a loose or even slightly unseated gpu can cause catastrophic failure of the system (as in electrical short, etc). While the weight of the cards -- especially with waterblocks & sli connector etc -- might serve to your advantage in holding the setup in place, it could also slowly weigh the rig down until one day suddenly the pins aren't making contact anymore and you have a real problem on your hands.
> 
> I assume the second card is still locked in place by its slot's clip? If your setup is anything like mine, the gpu "apparatus" is rock solid and functions as a single block of hardware, so the secondary clip might just be enough to hold the weight of the whole thing absolutely still. Or it might not. ?
> 
> Which one is yours, the rigig acrylic tubes or the pcv? If it's the rigid acrylic you might be good just with the support of the tubes. If it's the flexible I personally wouldn't trust *any* weight on the tubing, the last thing you want is the tubes being pushed or pulled in any direction supporting any weight at all - that's a recipe for disaster.


I see... Is there any way to fix it you think?


----------



## skynet2k8

You guys are right there is no real benefit running your processor at 4.8 ghz 24/7 it's solely for benchmarking I think I'm going to run at 4.5ghz I've noticed a significant drop in temperature I went from 65 degrees Celsius to 50 degrees Celsius that's a 15 degree drop in temperature and I'm also running at lower volts thanks for the advice!!!!!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

There's no need for 6 posts in a row @skynet2k8, please follow the rules as posting like that can be considered spam. For quoting and multi-quoting please use the appropriate buttons under the posts you wish to quote/reply to.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Yeah thats probably gold. FYI gold is 5ghz at under 1.4 my chip that needs 1.38 for 4.9 does 5 with 1.42 so u should have one
> As far as 3930k go. I think 1.45 is the 4930k ceiling. My gold 4930k was a freezey chip


Sounds like they are about equal then, my chip comes from a US-store (can't remember the name of the shop) but it is very good.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skynet2k8*
> 
> Definitely a golden chip but do you have proof?


If you was asking me, then ...


----------



## skynet2k8

Sorry about that


----------



## skynet2k8

That's awesome


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

[email protected]@2800

http://valid.x86.fr/wuns3y



Will do 193 BLCK as well


----------



## wjturner78

Finally finished making all of my plexi panels

please check out my build log and subscribe

i love my black board but am moving to x99 rve any one know when the rvbe is coming?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1543515/build-log-project-phoenix-lights-enthoo-primo



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!























Spoiler: Top cover













Spoiler: under the panels




there is no scratch here on the pump window its a reflection i think









Spoiler: corners




top right corner


top left corner


Spoiler: seam




joints now fitting nicely, still need to fill and sand level.








Spoiler: Photo shop of graphics











Spoiler: misc


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Finally finished making all of my plexi panels
> 
> please check out my build log and subscribe
> 
> i love my black board but am moving to x99 rve any one know when the rvbe is coming?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1543515/build-log-project-phoenix-lights-enthoo-primo


End of the year or sometime next year would be my guess


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Finally finished making all of my plexi panels
> 
> please check out my build log and subscribe
> 
> i love my black board but am moving to x99 rve any one know when the rvbe is coming?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1543515/build-log-project-phoenix-lights-enthoo-primo
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Top cover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: under the panels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there is no scratch here on the pump window its a reflection i think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: corners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> top right corner
> 
> 
> top left corner
> 
> 
> Spoiler: seam
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joints now fitting nicely, still need to fill and sand level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Photo shop of graphics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: misc


Haha... Already looking for the Be? Given that the R4BE took until the end of the chipsets cycle (definitely a GREAT move on the part of Asus, got to sell a buttload of product, then sell a buttload more on the new chipsets, yeah, to everyone that had just bought a BE).

Anyhow, I suspect it will be a good while before we see an X99 BE board, which is exactly why I am waiting to upgrade...

Additionally, did you seriously name your product "Project Phoenix"? Because that is the same name I have given to my *rebuild* of my rig. It was a ham-fisted mess before, and it is almost finished. Really excited.

As well, my favorite part, is that I FINALLY got my 19mm white LED halo/Angel Eye momentary switch with an illuminated power logo. It has taken me a year to find this, and even a guy that said he could make it for me, charged me $25,and shipped me a switch with an illuminated halo alright, and an etched/silkscreened power logo, and the led isn't even white, but some sort of watered down blue...

Here is a photograph of the terrible switch (fortunately he refunded my $25):



Additionally,here is a photograph of my new, glorious switch that:



Apparently these switches are very rare and uncommon. It is infinitely easy to obtain the very same switch in just about ANY color there is, even down to pink and purple... PINK! Seriously...

Anyhow, it is going to look spectacular with my white/black theme, going so far as to making my own power cable that will have clear, illuminated power connectors on either end, in addition to the giant light panels I will be making for the front and top of my case (STH10). I am also replacing the blue LED on my 970 G1 with some white 335 LED's so it sufficiently matches, and my favorite part, I will be etching a Phoenix logo into the acrylic window, and mounting a COB LED panel on the side of the window so that the light shines in and illuminates only the Phoenix. I will also be using Plasti-Dip to add the Phoenix logo to other parts in my rig, namely the SSD's and the 970's backplate, as well as my mouse pad and *hopefully* the wrist rest on my G710+ keyboard (provided I am able to hand cut a stencil small enough, I may have to pay to have stencils made).

Anyway, my apologies for the rant, I tend to get a tad bit carried away in my explanations of things...

I started a build log, but unfortunately, given the time it has taken me to get this build going, I have stopped posting to it, I figure I will just add photographs in the coming weeks of the *real* progress.

As well, @SpecTRe-X I am making progress with the temperature display, the hardware aspect is finalized, but I am having nothing but trouble with the fella I hired to complete the side of the programming that I couldn't do. So I will give you an update once sufficient progress is made.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Haha... Already looking for the Be? Given that the R4BE took until the end of the chipsets cycle (definitely a GREAT move on the part of Asus, got to sell a buttload of product, then sell a buttload more on the new chipsets, yeah, to everyone that had just bought a BE).
> 
> Anyhow, I suspect it will be a good while before we see an X99 BE board, which is exactly why I am waiting to upgrade...
> 
> Additionally, did you seriously name your product "Project Phoenix"? Because that is the same name I have given to my *rebuild* of my rig. It was a ham-fisted mess before, and it is almost finished. Really excited.
> 
> As well, my favorite part, is that I FINALLY got my 19mm white LED halo/Angel Eye momentary switch with an illuminated power logo. It has taken me a year to find this, and even a guy that said he could make it for me, charged me $25,and shipped me a switch with an illuminated halo alright, and an etched/silkscreened power logo, and the led isn't even white, but some sort of watered down blue...
> 
> Here is a photograph of the terrible switch (fortunately he refunded my $25):
> 
> 
> 
> Additionally,here is a photograph of my new, glorious switch that:
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently these switches are very rare and uncommon. It is infinitely easy to obtain the very same switch in just about ANY color there is, even down to pink and purple... PINK! Seriously...
> 
> Anyhow, it is going to look spectacular with my white/black theme, going so far as to making my own power cable that will have clear, illuminated power connectors on either end, in addition to the giant light panels I will be making for the front and top of my case (STH10). I am also replacing the blue LED on my 970 G1 with some white 335 LED's so it sufficiently matches, and my favorite part, I will be etching a Phoenix logo into the acrylic window, and mounting a COB LED panel on the side of the window so that the light shines in and illuminates only the Phoenix. I will also be using Plasti-Dip to add the Phoenix logo to other parts in my rig, namely the SSD's and the 970's backplate, as well as my mouse pad and *hopefully* the wrist rest on my G710+ keyboard (provided I am able to hand cut a stencil small enough, I may have to pay to have stencils made).
> 
> Anyway, my apologies for the rant, I tend to get a tad bit carried away in my explanations of things...
> 
> I started a build log, but unfortunately, given the time it has taken me to get this build going, I have stopped posting to it, I figure I will just add photographs in the coming weeks of the *real* progress.


haha i know that guy who sold you the switch! he tried to sell me ocean front property here in arizona!. seriously the "right switch looks pretty frickin cool, where on earth did you find it?
yes i named my build The Phoenix lol i guess great minds think alike!

your build sounds great shoot me the link if you could.


----------



## Mega Man

they were rare, now check these out
http://www.performance-pcs.com/vandal-resistant-switches-22mm just wanted to fyi you for the future, not rain on your parade !~

my only complaints is now i want reset one XD


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> As well, my favorite part, is that I FINALLY got my 19mm white LED halo/Angel Eye momentary switch with an illuminated power logo. It has taken me a year to find this, and even a guy that said he could make it for me, charged me $25,and shipped me a switch with an illuminated halo alright, and an etched/silkscreened power logo, and the led isn't even white, but some sort of watered down blue...
> 
> Here is a photograph of the terrible switch (fortunately he refunded my $25):
> 
> Additionally,here is a photograph of my new, glorious switch that:
> 
> Apparently these switches are very rare and uncommon. It is infinitely easy to obtain the very same switch in just about ANY color there is, even down to pink and purple... PINK! Seriously...
> 
> Anyway, my apologies for the rant, I tend to get a tad bit carried away in my explanations of things...
> 
> I started a build log, but unfortunately, given the time it has taken me to get this build going, I have stopped posting to it, I figure I will just add photographs in the coming weeks of the *real* progress.
> 
> As well, @SpecTRe-X I am making progress with the temperature display, the hardware aspect is finalized, but I am having nothing but trouble with the fella I hired to complete the side of the programming that I couldn't do. So I will give you an update once sufficient progress is made.


That switch is damn sweet and with Mega pointing out where to get some I may have to add a pair to my rig.

I saw your earlier posts and gathered as much. If it had been me I'd have left a negative review anyway, but I'm mean like that lol. Anyway, I figured I'd wait things out and see how the programming progressed. I'm really hoping for a reasonably easy way to go in and change the probe names should I need to. While I don't plan on moving things around much now you never know how you'll want future layouts to be monitored. Granted I understand the difficulty involved and accept if that just won't ever be possible. I haven't forgotten though, I think I even have a mounting spot picked out.

Out of curiosity, what ended up being the cause of the lagging after long power-on times?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they were rare, now check these out
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/vandal-resistant-switches-22mm just wanted to fyi you for the future, not rain on your parade !~
> 
> my only complaints is now i want reset one XD


Don't lie Mega, you totally wanted to rain on his parade!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> haha i know that guy who sold you the switch! he tried to sell me ocean front property here in arizona!. seriously the "right switch looks pretty frickin cool, where on earth did you find it?
> yes i named my build The Phoenix lol i guess great minds think alike!
> 
> your build sounds great shoot me the link if you could.


I got this switch from eBay, after hounding EVERY USA seller that had any switches with both the halo and the power logo, and after asking, repeatedly if FCPU, PPC's, MODDIY, and a couple others I can not recall, if they have, or could obtain such a switch for me, all of them saying no to the first, and that they could contact me if they ever had plans to, a couple of the eBay sellers0 said they would get back to me if they ever had them in Stock, but nobody ever did. I have been searching ebay about every two weeks or so for the last year trying to find one, and as soon as I did I snatched it up!

I named mine "Projekt Phoenix" due to the fact that some parts remained... Basically now it's just the motherboard and RAM that are 'original'. I built the first iteration of this rig 'CarboNite' back in 2013 when I first got my R4BE with the following (Current parts in parenthesis) :

R4BE
4820K (4930K)
Phanteks PH-TC14PE (custom loop)
32GB Crucial Ballistix VLP (very low profile - tiny height modules, about as tall as the retention clips)
2xGTX 670 FTW's (GTX 970 G1)
Arctic Cooling Accelero Hybrid x2 (stock cooler)
Enermax FulmoGT case (CaseLabs STH10)
OCZ 1kW PSU
2x250GB 840 Evo R.A.I.D. 0
Creative Sound Blaster Recon3d (Onboard Audio)

The main thing that has slowly changed, is that I went from air cooling to liquid cooling. I have an MCP35x2 'pump', and the EK R4BE monoblock. I plan to upgrade to the Acer XB270HU panel, and then get a 2nd 970 shortly thereafter... At which point I will get blocks for the cards.

Although, the big stuff isn't what is time consuming, it is getting all of the little things right, and given my issues with doing any permanent mods I always have to find clever ways of doing the same mods as everyone else, but without making any permanent changes to anything, everything must be reversible. Which adds a whole different level of difficulty to my builds.

I will send a link to my build log shortly, on my phone at the moment. However I must warn you, it is mostly a waste of time... As mentioned I stopped updating it quite early due to how long it was taking to make any progress (mostly because I am on disability and finances are slim at best).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they were rare, now check these out
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/vandal-resistant-switches-22mm just wanted to fyi you for the future, not rain on your parade !~
> 
> my only complaints is now i want reset one XD


Interesting. I checked PPC's many times, even sent them a email asking about them, no dice. Although, that was probably three months ago, maybe more. Thank you for the link though! Now I knower when I can find them consistently!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> That switch is damn sweet and with Mega pointing out where to get some I may have to add a pair to my rig.
> 
> I saw your earlier posts and gathered as much. If it had been me I'd have left a negative review anyway, but I'm mean like that lol. Anyway, I figured I'd wait things out and see how the programming progressed. I'm really hoping for a reasonably easy way to go in and change the probe names should I need to. While I don't plan on moving things around much now you never know how you'll want future layouts to be monitored. Granted I understand the difficulty involved and accept if that just won't ever be possible. I haven't forgotten though, I think I even have a mounting spot picked out.
> 
> Out of curiosity, what ended up being the cause of the lagging after long power-on times?


I really do want to leave a negative bit of feedback, but two things are stopping me, I try to give people as many chances as I can before I go absolutely ape$¬¡™ on their a§, just to be sure I am not unfounded in my reaction, secondly if I leave negative feedback, then I will have to hire someone else to finish it, and given the amount of money I have sunk into this project, I really don't want to spend any more right now... It was supposed to be $30!!! lol

Right now, I find the name change system relatively easy, but it does require editing the code. You simply connect the unit to your computer, run the Arduino IDE (the programming interface) and find the specific lines of code that displays the names (Which I could easily guide you to by telling you the line numbers). I wish it could be done on the device itself, but that is just too far out if the scope of this project.

The lag is actually one of the things he is supposed to be working out right now. He last told me to give him 4 days, maybe a week (I do know he has a lot of projects he is working on right now, but even so, he was working now my project long before those), and it has been six days, so I am going to contact him tonight to get a progress report.

It sucks because this device has so much potential, unfortunately having a crappy guy working on the stuff I can't yet do has my enthusiasm draining day by day. Don't get me wrong, it is still an awesome device, but it was supposed to be done three months ago...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I really do want to leave a negative bit of feedback, but two things are stopping me, I try to give people as many chances as I can before I go absolutely ape$¬¡™ on their a§, just to be sure I am not unfounded in my reaction, secondly if I leave negative feedback, then I will have to hire someone else to finish it, and given the amount of money I have sunk into this project, I really don't want to spend any more right now... It was supposed to be $30!!! lol
> 
> Right now, I find the name change system relatively easy, but it does require editing the code. You simply connect the unit to your computer, run the Arduino IDE (the programming interface) and find the specific lines of code that displays the names (Which I could easily guide you to by telling you the line numbers). I wish it could be done on the device itself, but that is just too far out if the scope of this project.
> 
> The lag is actually one of the things he is supposed to be working out right now. He last told me to give him 4 days, maybe a week (I do know he has a lot of projects he is working on right now, but even so, he was working now my project long before those), and it has been six days, so I am going to contact him tonight to get a progress report.
> 
> It sucks because this device has so much potential, unfortunately having a crappy guy working on the stuff I can't yet do has my enthusiasm draining day by day. Don't get me wrong, it is still an awesome device, but it was supposed to be done three months ago...


I usually give folks 3 chances then call it a day. Even that has been too generous in some cases. I understand your view though, I wouldn't be too eager to have to pay yet another for something that should have been handled already.

Could you post a small section of code as an example? Here or through PM is fine, I've dealt with LUA and XML tables before for game mods so if it looks anything like that we should be good. If it's hexi-decimal I may fall out of my chair







. On-device renaming would be a massive addition so I wouldn't expect anything like that. If it comes to it you can just hand-hold me through the process the first few times lol.

Exactly why I try to do everything I can myself. I don't usually find the most reliable people.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I usually give folks 3 chances then call it a day. Even that has been too generous in some cases. I understand your view though, I wouldn't be too eager to have to pay yet another for something that should have been handled already.
> 
> Could you post a small section of code as an example? Here or through PM is fine, I've dealt with LUA and XML tables before for game mods so if it looks anything like that we should be good. If it's hexi-decimal I may fall out of my chair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . On-device renaming would be a massive addition so I wouldn't expect anything like that. If it comes to it you can just hand-hold me through the process the first few times lol.
> 
> Exactly why I try to do everything I can myself. I don't usually find the most reliable people.


In all honesty, I am confident that most intelligent people could figure out which part to edit in order to change the names. It might take a little while and a few skims through, but you would find it. Regardless, I will shoot some of the code over later.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they were rare, now check these out
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/vandal-resistant-switches-22mm just wanted to fyi you for the future, not rain on your parade !~
> 
> my only complaints is now i want reset one XD


Those are pretty cool. You got me thinking of changing out the reset button now!

I am now in the process of sealing my case for better air flow pressure. I discovered this phantom 820 case has a lot of open ventilation areas so it's going to take me some time to get this done. I am currently testing out that Plastic Dip spray to see if it will seal off some of the ventilation areas. It was recommended by a store clerk who used it for a similar purpose. He also mentioned using something as a backing so the Plastic Dip could form a bond to keep the holes sealed.
@reev3r have you used the Plastic for something similar?

I recently discovered my front 200mm fan that came with the case was not working at all. So I simply replaced it the one I took out of the top when putting the radiator in. I had noticed that my temps were reaching the upper 20's under normal load which isn't bad so I wasn't to worried about it. Anyone have any good recommendations for a replacement 200mm fan? Needs to have good airflow and low noise.

Now that I replaced that fan I noticed something odd with the core temps. It seems the 3rd core is running at 20 degrees where the other 5 cores (1, 2, 4, and 5) are running at 25/26 degrees. Is this normal?
FYI I have a 4930k hexa core cpu.

Bruce


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Those are pretty cool. You got me thinking of changing out the reset button now!
> 
> I am now in the process of sealing my case for better air flow pressure. I discovered this phantom 820 case has a lot of open ventilation areas so it's going to take me some time to get this done. I am currently testing out that Plastic Dip spray to see if it will seal off some of the ventilation areas. It was recommended by a store clerk who used it for a similar purpose. He also mentioned using something as a backing so the Plastic Dip could form a bond to keep the holes sealed.
> @reev3r have you used the Plastic for something similar?
> 
> I recently discovered my front 200mm fan that came with the case was not working at all. So I simply replaced it the one I took out of the top when putting the radiator in. I had noticed that my temps were reaching the upper 20's under normal load which isn't bad so I wasn't to worried about it. Anyone have any good recommendations for a replacement 200mm fan? Needs to have good airflow and low noise.
> 
> Now that I replaced that fan I noticed something odd with the core temps. It seems the 3rd core is running at 20 degrees where the other 5 cores (1, 2, 4, and 5) are running at 25/26 degrees. Is this normal?
> FYI I have a 4930k hexa core cpu.
> 
> Bruce


plastidip is AWESOME I use it all the time. On my current build I used 1/16" polycarbonate And cut them to fitt all the sheet metal of my case then I sprayed the side of the poly that would touch sheet metal with plastidip and screwed it in place using the cases stock rivet holes. On the honeycomb areas I sprayed it from outside the case so it would form a "seal" like you were told. The end result is amazing the rubber coating acts as a sound damper, air sealant and also because it's rubber it decouples any vibrations from being transfered to the case.... miracle stuff


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> plastidip is AWESOME I use it all the time. On my current build I used 1/16" polycarbonate And cut them to fitt all the sheet metal of my case then I sprayed the side of the poly that would touch sheet metal with plastidip and screwed it in place using the cases stock rivet holes. On the honeycomb areas I sprayed it from outside the case so it would form a "seal" like you were told. The end result is amazing the rubber coating acts as a sound damper, air sealant and also because it's rubber it decouples any vibrations from being transfered to the case.... miracle stuff


Sweet!
How many coats did you use? I am about to go and spray the 4th coat on now (as recommended by the directions).


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> In all honesty, I am confident that most intelligent people could figure out which part to edit in order to change the names. It might take a little while and a few skims through, but you would find it. Regardless, I will shoot some of the code over later.


I work for a fortune 100 as a systems integrator, most of my day is spent scripting to automate system first articles. I could look at it for you. If your worried about people "figuring it out and reverse engineering it i could also help there.

I just went back and read a couple posts on your project. This is definitely not for your average enthusiasts, however if you get away from the adruino board it could be. I think this could be done using a very simple logic board setup with a usb interface and a stupid simple program so "johnny pc user" could run his probes and name them and also have the ability to monitor the temps on his Taskbar. ...


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Sweet!
> How many coats did you use? I am about to go and spray the 4th coat on now (as recommended by the directions).


since my parts were not going to be seen I only used 4. Remember the thicker it is (more coats) the easier it is to peel off if you want too, it won't peel off on its own though. The stuff is actually very "forgiving" you can lay it down uneven clumpy whatever and it almost always "fixes itself" you really have to try to do it wrong. If you put a clear coat over it you can never peel it off....


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I work for a fortune 100 as a systems integrator, most of my day is spent scripting to automate system first articles. I could look at it for you. If your worried about people "figuring it out and reverse engineering it i could also help there.
> 
> I just went back and read a couple posts on your project. This is definitely not for your average enthusiasts, however if you get away from the adruino board it could be. I think this could be done using a very simple logic board setup with a usb interface and a stupid simple program so "johnny pc user" could run his probes and name them and also have the ability to monitor the temps on his Taskbar. ...


I am not terribly concerned about anybody reverse engineering the code. If someone bought their own hardware and wanted the code I would happily hand it over. Like I said, totally willing to 'give' them away for cost, or maybe a little bit extra for my time and effort, but that's about it. Ideally, I would like to get back what it cost me to have it programmed, but it's not really a big deal, since I would have done it anyway.

I am sure much of it could easily be done with a simple logic board, but I am confident that the Arduino makes the TFT touchscreen much easier to work with. As well, I have found that since Arduino is basically just C/C++, most people with familiarity can program the unit.

I will send you the code in a private message, I think that will be easiest.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@wjturner78 Thanks for the info! On my last coat I noticed that some of the tape on the back didn't hold very well and when I test peeled it there were some holes that did not get covered by the spray. I'll have to figure out a better way than scotch tape for the backing...lol.

I asked a question earlier I think may have been passed by because of the conversation about Plastic Dip.
Here it is again in case someone can answer it...

I noticed something odd with my core temps. It seems the 3rd core is running at 20 degrees where the other 5 cores (1, 2, 4, and 5) are running at 25/26 degrees. Is this normal?
FYI I have a 4930k hexa core cpu.

Bruce


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @wjturner78 Thanks for the info! On my last coat I noticed that some of the tape on the back didn't hold very well and when I test peeled it there were some holes that did not get covered by the spray. I'll have to figure out a better way than scotch tape for the backing...lol.
> 
> I asked a question earlier I think may have been passed by because of the conversation about Plastic Dip.
> Here it is again in case someone can answer it...
> 
> I noticed something odd with my core temps. It seems the 3rd core is running at 20 degrees where the other 5 cores (1, 2, 4, and 5) are running at 25/26 degrees. Is this normal?
> FYI I have a 4930k hexa core cpu.
> 
> Bruce


tape will work but you need to peel it off about 15 minutes after spraying you want to peel it just as Is getting tacky if you peel to early it wonwon't setup and when it's setting is when you need to peel your tape once it's setup it's bonded to whatever it touches

edit
I just noticed you said "scotch tape".... yeah you might wanna step your game up and maybe switch to packaging tape, or if your feeling lucky some masking tape lol

thanks 4 the rep!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @wjturner78 Thanks for the info! On my last coat I noticed that some of the tape on the back didn't hold very well and when I test peeled it there were some holes that did not get covered by the spray. I'll have to figure out a better way than scotch tape for the backing...lol.
> 
> I asked a question earlier I think may have been passed by because of the conversation about Plastic Dip.
> Here it is again in case someone can answer it...
> 
> I noticed something odd with my core temps. It seems the 3rd core is running at 20 degrees where the other 5 cores (1, 2, 4, and 5) are running at 25/26 degrees. Is this normal?
> FYI I have a 4930k hexa core cpu.
> 
> Bruce


As for the tape/Plasti-Dip issue, I never use anything but masking tape, as it is specifically meant to be used for painting, hence the name 'masking tqpe'.  It always works flawlessly for me.

Regarding the thermals of your third core, I have the same thing happening, even the same core. For some Peculiar reason, my 3rd core always has the highest activity level of all my cores. Perhaps if you check the activity monitor you may find the same thing...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> tape will work but you need to peel it off about 15 minutes after spraying you want to peel it just as Is getting tacky if you peel to early it wonwon't setup and when it's setting is when you need to peel your tape once it's setup it's bonded to whatever it touches
> 
> edit
> I just noticed you said "scotch tape".... yeah you might wanna step your game up and maybe switch to packaging tape, or if your feeling lucky some masking tape lol
> 
> thanks 4 the rep!


Yeah, after you said that I went out and tried peeling off the tape.... it left some residue behind like scotch tape tends to do. It was a little pain to rub off. I also noticed I apparently did not spray enough on as some of the holes are still open. I noticed that when I shined a light through it before peeling off the tape. I have packing tape! I just have to cut it down to size which can be a pain with packing tape because it is so sticky.... I used the scotch tape because it was the right size.
Edit: I just remembered I have some of that painters tape.........DOH!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> As for the tape/Plasti-Dip issue, I never use anything but masking tape, as it is specifically meant to be used for painting, hence the name 'masking tqpe'.  It always works flawlessly for me.
> 
> Regarding the thermals of your third core, I have the same thing happening, even the same core. For some Peculiar reason, my 3rd core always has the highest activity level of all my cores. Perhaps if you check the activity monitor you may find the same thing...


As per the activity monitor is would be core 2 I am talking about. It has the same activity as core 0 but still runs 5 degrees cooler... but then again with looking at the activity monitor it has all 12 cores listed with no way of knowing which ones are the "actual" 6 cores.....
I would think that with the same amount of activity as core 0 it would be at least close to the same temp.

is your lower temp core also running 5 degrees cooler?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah, after you said that I went out and tried peeling off the tape.... it left some residue behind like scotch tape tends to do. It was a little pain to rub off. I also noticed I apparently did not spray enough on as some of the holes are still open. I noticed that when I shined a light through it before peeling off the tape. I have packing tape! I just have to cut it down to size which can be a pain with packing tape because it is so sticky.... I used the scotch tape because it was the right size.
> Edit: I just remembered I have some of that painters tape.........DOH!
> As per the activity monitor is would be core 2 I am talking about. It has the same activity as core 0 but still runs 5 degrees cooler... but then again with looking at the activity monitor it has all 12 cores listed with no way of knowing which ones are the "actual" 6 cores.....
> I would think that with the same amount of activity as core 0 it would be at least close to the same temp.
> 
> is your lower temp core also running 5 degrees cooler?


My apologies, I actually read your post incorrectly... I have one core that has a higher usage and runs a bit warmer than the rest, it seems your concern is the opposite...

Unfortunately, I don't exactly have any thoughts on that... Maybe try resetting your BIOS and see if that helps, alternatively, it could be the application of thermal paste, if your heatsink is not sufficiently smooth it could be that that core has slightly better thermal conductivity due to slightly better contact, after checking the BIOS, I would check the thermal paste and clean both your CPU IHS and the heatsink and see if either one is not quite smooth... Additionally, if you have the motivation, you could always lap and polish your heatsink to a mirror shine, which reduced temps (for me on my H100) by ~5°C on most cores, two cores were reduced by ~7°C. If that is the route you choose, I would use a piece of glass with sandpaper taped down, which will ensure about the smoothest surface you can easily get to do it by hand, unless of course you have access to equipment that would work better.


----------



## reev3r

My apologies, I forgot to mention, I used to use an application to monitor temps and usage, it displayed on the physical core usage, but it seems I lost it with my hard drive failure a couple of months ago. 3TB of data, gone... What's worse, is that it failed as I was doing an online backup. I have a 3-backup policy, online, a physical disc with me, and a physical disc in my friends safe. That way I can experience three 'failures' and my data is still mostly safe (the friend backup is only once every six months roughly).

Anhway, rambling...

If you need any help with the lapping, let me know and I will happily walk you through it.  I do hope one of my suggestions helps.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Those are pretty cool. You got me thinking of changing out the reset button now!
> 
> I am now in the process of sealing my case for better air flow pressure. I discovered this phantom 820 case has a lot of open ventilation areas so it's going to take me some time to get this done. I am currently testing out that Plastic Dip spray to see if it will seal off some of the ventilation areas. It was recommended by a store clerk who used it for a similar purpose. He also mentioned using something as a backing so the Plastic Dip could form a bond to keep the holes sealed.
> @reev3r have you used the Plastic for something similar?
> 
> I recently discovered my front 200mm fan that came with the case was not working at all. So I simply replaced it the one I took out of the top when putting the radiator in. I had noticed that my temps were reaching the upper 20's under normal load which isn't bad so I wasn't to worried about it. Anyone have any good recommendations for a replacement 200mm fan? Needs to have good airflow and low noise.
> 
> Now that I replaced that fan I noticed something odd with the core temps. It seems the 3rd core is running at 20 degrees where the other 5 cores (1, 2, 4, and 5) are running at 25/26 degrees. Is this normal?
> FYI I have a 4930k hexa core cpu.
> 
> Bruce


Sounds like a stuck temp sensor. My old Q9650 had that issue except they would stick below ~30C. I'm not sure if it can work the other way but that's what it sounds like thus far. An easy way to tell would be to run realtemp's "sensor test" and watch for any dead spots in the sensing range. It could also be an uneven or poor mounting of the heatsink/block.

From my experience the actual canned/bottled offering is easier to use. I found it gives better control over application thickness and less hassle accounting for the pressure of the spray.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I work for a fortune 100 as a systems integrator, most of my day is spent scripting to automate system first articles. I could look at it for you. If your worried about people "figuring it out and reverse engineering it i could also help there.
> 
> I just went back and read a couple posts on your project. This is definitely not for your average enthusiasts, however if you get away from the adruino board it could be. I think this could be done using a very simple logic board setup with a usb interface and a stupid simple program so "johnny pc user" could run his probes and name them and also have the ability to monitor the temps on his Taskbar. ...


Doesn't monitoring it on the taskbar defeat the point of it having a screen?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> My apologies, I forgot to mention, I used to use an application to monitor temps and usage, it displayed on the physical core usage, but it seems I lost it with my hard drive failure a couple of months ago. 3TB of data, gone... What's worse, is that it failed as I was doing an online backup. I have a 3-backup policy, online, a physical disc with me, and a physical disc in my friends safe. That way I can experience three 'failures' and my data is still mostly safe (the friend backup is only once every six months roughly).
> 
> Anhway, rambling...
> 
> If you need any help with the lapping, let me know and I will happily walk you through it.  I do hope one of my suggestions helps.


I never really trusted online backups. Never mind that with my upload speed, by the time my current backup finished it would be time for the next lol.

That program wasn't Intel's extreme tuning utility, was it? I haven't used it yet myself but have seen it around and decided to take it for a spin. I don't recall Aida differentiating physical from HT cores, though that could have changed since last I used it.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Sounds like a stuck temp sensor. My old Q9650 had that issue except they would stick below ~30C. I'm not sure if it can work the other way but that's what it sounds like thus far. An easy way to tell would be to run realtemp's "sensor test" and watch for any dead spots in the sensing range. It could also be an uneven or poor mounting of the heatsink/block.
> 
> From my experience the actual canned/bottled offering is easier to use. I found it gives better control over application thickness and less hassle accounting for the pressure of the spray.
> Doesn't monitoring it on the taskbar defeat the point of it having a screen?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never really trusted online backups. Never mind that with my upload speed, by the time my current backup finished it would be time for the next lol.
> 
> That program wasn't Intel's extreme tuning utility, was it? I haven't used it yet myself but have seen it around and decided to take it for a spin. I don't recall Aida differentiating physical from HT cores, though that could have changed since last I used it.


It was some unknown application. Ugh... I remember that it didn't have a legible name, it looked like it was a Russian word spelled out in a Latin alphabet. I found it after a bit of Google search. It was in English, but the name was goofy... Like 'cjevic' or something. This is going to irritate me for days... For days! FOUR DAYS!!!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> It was some unknown application. Ugh... I remember that it didn't have a legible name, it looked like it was a Russian word spelled out in a Latin alphabet. I found it after a bit of Google search. It was in English, but the name was goofy... Like 'cjevic' or something. This is going to irritate me for days... For days! FOUR DAYS!!!


I hope for only four days, any longer and it will start to irritate me! xD

Eastern block may be more accurate though. I think there are many countries that still use some form of Cyrillic.


----------



## reev3r

@Madmaxneo it seems I may have misunderstood the temp issue, is the sensor stuck below 20°C, or is it always ~5°C below the other cores?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I never really trusted online backups. Never mind that with my upload speed, by the time my current backup finished it would be time for the next lol.


Seems I missed that part...

That is the great thing about online backup (most of them, I use Crashplan), they do what is called an incremental backup, or does one huge backup of everything, and subsequent backup sessions are only the data that has changed. I have 5Mb/s up, so it took a good while to backup my ~23TB of data. Well, ~20TB now... One of these days I will replace the drive and restore from my friend, fortunately the data wasn't anything I use regularly, mostly software downloads and photography,some movies and of course 2.9TB out of the 3TB was pr0n... lol For those serious folk, that was totally a joke... Who downloads pr0n anymore?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> My apologies, I forgot to mention, I used to use an application to monitor temps and usage, it displayed on the physical core usage, but it seems I lost it with my hard drive failure a couple of months ago. 3TB of data, gone... What's worse, is that it failed as I was doing an online backup. I have a 3-backup policy, online, a physical disc with me, and a physical disc in my friends safe. That way I can experience three 'failures' and my data is still mostly safe (the friend backup is only once every six months roughly).
> 
> Anhway, rambling...
> 
> If you need any help with the lapping, let me know and I will happily walk you through it.  I do hope one of my suggestions helps.


Thanks, I'll let you know.
I don't care for actually removing the cpu and re-applying the thermal past, it's my least favorite part of working on a PC. When I installed the H240-x rad I used a thermal paste cleaner and a surface prep chemical on the cpu. Basically it was cleaned and polished at the time though not as far as sanding it down first.

I have never used onlne back up and only back up things like my music and rpg games folder (which has some amateur programming stuff in it) along with some software. Most of the software I have gets updated so often that I don't worry about backups because there is usually a an updated version that I'll need to download anyway. I have never had a problem with literal drive failure where I could not retrieve at least some of the data with a recovery program (there are many free ones and some with trial periods). I have some old HDD's from the SATA I era that I am going to try and recover some data that I for some reason ran a file eraser on. Mostly excel files that I need to recover.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Sounds like a stuck temp sensor. My old Q9650 had that issue except they would stick below ~30C. I'm not sure if it can work the other way but that's what it sounds like thus far. An easy way to tell would be to run realtemp's "sensor test" and watch for any dead spots in the sensing range. It could also be an uneven or poor mounting of the heatsink/block.
> 
> From my experience the actual canned/bottled offering is easier to use. I found it gives better control over application thickness and less hassle accounting for the pressure of the spray.
> Doesn't monitoring it on the taskbar defeat the point of it having a screen?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never really trusted online backups. Never mind that with my upload speed, by the time my current backup finished it would be time for the next lol.


The sensor seems to be stuck at 5°C below the other cores on average, sometimes it gets within about 2°C or 3°C below the other cores but so far it seems to be working ok.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> @Madmaxneo it seems I may have misunderstood the temp issue, is the sensor stuck below 20°C, or is it always ~5°C below the other cores?
> Seems I missed that part...
> 
> That is the great thing about online backup (most of them, I use Crashplan), they do what is called an incremental backup, or does one huge backup of everything, and subsequent backup sessions are only the data that has changed. I have 5Mb/s up, so it took a good while to backup my ~23TB of data. Well, ~20TB now... One of these days I will replace the drive and restore from my friend, fortunately the data wasn't anything I use regularly, mostly software downloads and photography,some movies and of course 2.9TB out of the 3TB was pr0n... lol For those serious folk, that was totally a joke... Who downloads pr0n anymore?


As I replied above and I just noticed something. I decided to compare the Real TempGT temps against the Eleet program from EVGA and the Eleet program is reporting normal temp ranges across all cores. It might be the Real TempGT program that is acting up


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> @Madmaxneo it seems I may have misunderstood the temp issue, is the sensor stuck below 20°C, or is it always ~5°C below the other cores?
> Seems I missed that part...
> 
> That is the great thing about online backup (most of them, I use Crashplan), they do what is called an incremental backup, or does one huge backup of everything, and subsequent backup sessions are only the data that has changed. I have 5Mb/s up, so it took a good while to backup my ~23TB of data. Well, ~20TB now... One of these days I will replace the drive and restore from my friend, fortunately the data wasn't anything I use regularly, mostly software downloads and photography,some movies and of course 2.9TB out of the 3TB was pr0n... lol For those serious folk, that was totally a joke... Who downloads pr0n anymore?


I have 4 petabytes of it lying around in a special server, backed up in 6 other drive clusters. Granted it's work I commissioned and in uncompressed HD AV files soooo..... rotflmao.

Even if I did incremental that still leaves ~3tb initial; my upload is only like 500 Kb/s. Plus my plan only allows for 250gb download per month and AT&T is a pita to deal with. I have a dual prong method myself. Back up to 2 physical drives, one goes in my desk draw and the other in a waterproof case which goes in my data safe in the basement. I don't make many real changes or keep anything valuable on my main rig so I back up biannually; not that it takes more than a night.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks, I'll let you know.
> I don't care for actually removing the cpu and re-applying the thermal past, it's my least favorite part of working on a PC. When I installed the H240-x rad I used a thermal paste cleaner and a surface prep chemical on the cpu. Basically it was cleaned and polished at the time though not as far as sanding it down first.
> 
> I have never used onlne back up and only back up things like my music and rpg games folder (which has some amateur programming stuff in it) along with some software. Most of the software I have gets updated so often that I don't worry about backups because there is usually a an updated version that I'll need to download anyway. I have never had a problem with literal drive failure where I could not retrieve at least some of the data with a recovery program (there are many free ones and some with trial periods). I have some old HDD's from the SATA I era that I am going to try and recover some data that I for some reason ran a file eraser on. Mostly excel files that I need to recover.
> 
> The sensor seems to be stuck at 5°C below the other cores on average, sometimes it gets within about 2°C or 3°C below the other cores but so far it seems to be working ok.
> As I replied above and I just noticed something. I decided to compare the Real TempGT temps against the Eleet program from EVGA and the Eleet program is reporting normal temp ranges across all cores. It might be the Real TempGT program that is acting up


My bad, I misunderstood what the issue was. Reading that stuff while being as tired as I was may have been why. It sounds like Reev3r was on the money with what he said about the surfaces being uneven or the TIM being applied poorly/unevenly. Surface cleaner may be a bit overkill. I've always just used rubbing alcohol myself.

I'd use a third program to see if the realtemp vs eleet is right. if you only use 2 programs 1 could be bad but you wouldn't know which.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks, I'll let you know.
> I don't care for actually removing the cpu and re-applying the thermal past, it's my least favorite part of working on a PC. When I installed the H240-x rad I used a thermal paste cleaner and a surface prep chemical on the cpu. Basically it was cleaned and polished at the time though not as far as sanding it down first.


Yeah, I can't blame you, it used to be the thing I hated most also, but St some point it stopped bothering me, probably because it is so easy and quick with the IHS on modern CPU's, I hated doing it on the old processors with the die exposed.

Did you check to see if the base of the cooler was flat? Sometimes you can receive them and they will have slight indentations, which will change the thermal transfer of that location, alternatively it could have a small 'bump' allowing it to cool that specific spot (where that core is)... I believe I already mentioned that though, apologies if so.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have never used onlne back up and only back up things like my music and rpg games folder (which has some amateur programming stuff in it) along with some software. Most of the software I have gets updated so often that I don't worry about backups because there is usually a an updated version that I'll need to download anyway. I have never had a problem with literal drive failure where I could not retrieve at least some of the data with a recovery program (there are many free ones and some with trial periods). I have some old HDD's from the SATA I era that I am going to try and recover some data that I for some reason ran a file eraser on. Mostly excel files that I need to recover.


Clearly you have never owned a 3TB Seagate drive... They have a ridiculously high failure rate... In fact, of the four I purchased, Six of them have failed... Not only the originals, but the replacements, and even two of the replacements of the replacements failed... So yeah... Not awesome. Unfortunately the failure that occurs prevents data from being recovered, so it sucks chunks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The sensor seems to be stuck at 5°C below the other cores on average, sometimes it gets within about 2°C or 3°C below the other cores but so far it seems to be working ok.
> As I replied above and I just noticed something. I decided to compare the Real TempGT temps against the Eleet program from EVGA and the Eleet program is reporting normal temp ranges across all cores. It might be the Real TempGT program that is acting up


Are you running multiple temp monitoring softwares at a time? That can cause issues with reporting when multiple programs are polling the Nuvoton NCT6791D Super I/O controller. Make sure nothing else is polling the chip, like AISuite, realtemp speedfan, etc. it *may* resolve the temperature disparity...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Yeah, I can't blame you, it used to be the thing I hated most also, but St some point it stopped bothering me, probably because it is so easy and quick with the IHS on modern CPU's, I hated doing it on the old processors with the die exposed.
> 
> Did you check to see if the base of the cooler was flat? Sometimes you can receive them and they will have slight indentations, which will change the thermal transfer of that location, alternatively it could have a small 'bump' allowing it to cool that specific spot (where that core is)... I believe I already mentioned that though, apologies if so.
> Clearly you have never owned a 3TB Seagate drive... They have a ridiculously high failure rate... In fact, of the four I purchased, Six of them have failed... Not only the originals, but the replacements, and even two of the replacements of the replacements failed... So yeah... Not awesome. Unfortunately the failure that occurs prevents data from being recovered, so it sucks chunks.
> Are you running multiple temp monitoring softwares at a time? That can cause issues with reporting when multiple programs are polling the Nuvoton NCT6791D Super I/O controller. Make sure nothing else is polling the chip, like AISuite, realtemp speedfan, etc. it *may* resolve the temperature disparity...


When I installed the cpu cooler everything seemed perfectly flat and smooth. I have only been running both programs since I mentioned it my previous post. When I first got this rig up and running I would run both programs and the temps were identical between them, though the Eleet program lagged a little behind RealTemp.
It seems the Eleet is showing average temps across the board with core 2 (third core) dropping like 2 or 3 degrees lower every so often at best, but on average it stays level with the other core temps.

I will run the sensor test when I get the chance to find where I installed prime95 at...lol.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Yeah, I can't blame you, it used to be the thing I hated most also, but St some point it stopped bothering me, probably because it is so easy and quick with the IHS on modern CPU's, I hated doing it on the old processors with the die exposed.
> 
> Clearly you have never owned a 3TB Seagate drive... They have a ridiculously high failure rate... In fact, of the four I purchased, Six of them have failed... Not only the originals, but the replacements, and even two of the replacements of the replacements failed... So yeah... Not awesome. Unfortunately the failure that occurs prevents data from being recovered, so it sucks chunks..


The thing I hate the most is the clean up of the thermal past. For some reason every time I do something where I have to re-apply the thermal paste a very small amount gets smudged somewhere and seems to end up everywhere. The last time it somehow ended up on my pants leg and I didn't notice it until there were little smudges in various spots....lol.

I heard something about the seagate drives and failure rates. Someone on the Tom's Hardware forums said they corrected those problems and are now trying to get a better rep back. I guess that isn't true. Why not go with another company like WD? They have a very low failure rate. They are my preferred drive and all I have (except for the 1tb external Touro drive). I think newegg recently had a sale on the 4tb WD drives.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I always bought Hitachi drives. I have one in a laptop that's something like 15 years old and it still runs. I was rather saddened when I heard Hitachi was bought by WD.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I always bought Hitachi drives. I have one in a laptop that's something like 15 years old and it still runs. I was rather saddened when I heard Hitachi was bought by WD.


15 years old? What is that a 40 gig drive? I have a couple of those laying around here somewhere....
I have had nothing but great experiences with WD. Back in 2004/2005 I had purchased a new 160gb drive from them but had trouble getting XP to recognize all 160 gigs even with updates installed. I called their tech support and it seems that no matter what we did the missing 40 gigs would not show up, so they sent me a new one. I got to messing with the one still in the machine while the other was still on its way and I somehow got windows to recognize all 160 gigs. I called them and they said just to keep the new 160 gig drive when it arrives. So yeah I really like WD. I still have both those drives and they work fine though I haven't used them now in about a year and a half. One of these days I have to connect one of them to my system to try and recover some old excel files. I have a kit where I can connect them via USB so it is pretty easy to do..


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> 15 years old? What is that a 40 gig drive? I have a couple of those laying around here somewhere....
> I have had nothing but great experiences with WD. Back in 2004/2005 I had purchased a new 160gb drive from them but had trouble getting XP to recognize all 160 gigs even with updates installed. I called their tech support and it seems that no matter what we did the missing 40 gigs would not show up, so they sent me a new one. I got to messing with the one still in the machine while the other was still on its way and I somehow got windows to recognize all 160 gigs. I called them and they said just to keep the new 160 gig drive when it arrives. So yeah I really like WD. I still have both those drives and they work fine though I haven't used them now in about a year and a half. One of these days I have to connect one of them to my system to try and recover some old excel files. I have a kit where I can connect them via USB so it is pretty easy to do..


I think it was actually a 100gb drive. I got the largest drive I could find in a 2.5" form factor at the time because the drive that came in the laptop failed. I've had good experiences with WD drives too but none of the Hitachi drives have failed on me and somewhere around a quarter or a third of the WD drives have. Seagate is the worst of them though, every seagate I've owned crapped out on me within 2 years. The only exception to that is an OEM seagate that came with my first desktop, that one is still churning in the rig I built for my sister.


----------



## reev3r

@SpecTRe-X
@wjturner78

Firstly, I have sent to both of you the code for the temperature display, it should be in your inbox...

I say 'should be' simply because of the crappy news... It seems the reason that I have not received a response from the programmer is because the previous message I sent him, with the updated code that he had requested (with some minor changes that I had made), did not send through for some reason, and when I went in today to read our message history I noticed that the last message was him asking for it. I am not sure how it failed to go through, but I sent it a little over a week ago, which completely sucks. Ultimately, it is my own fault for not verifying delivery of the message, and sadly, when I have checked to see if he has responded, I only check to see if I have any new messages... Ugh...

Anyhow, lesson learned.

I will say straight away, if either of you have any interest in using this code as a starting point for making your own unit, you are more than welcome to do so, I will also give you the list of components you will need in order to build it, in total, if you don't bork your parts list, and end up buying things you do not need, and other things that you could have bought fewer of, it should only cost you in the range of ~$60 (assuming you are patient and can wait for the DS18B20 probes to arrive from overseas, they can be had for ~$1/probe, otherwise they will cost ~$2/probe). So yeah, if you are interested, go ahead and let me know and we can get your parts as quickly as you want. Otherwise, I will happily build the unit for you.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> @SpecTRe-X
> @wjturner78
> 
> Firstly, I have sent to both of you the code for the temperature display, it should be in your inbox...
> 
> I say 'should be' simply because of the crappy news... It seems the reason that I have not received a response from the programmer is because the previous message I sent him, with the updated code that he had requested (with some minor changes that I had made), did not send through for some reason, and when I went in today to read our message history I noticed that the last message was him asking for it. I am not sure how it failed to go through, but I sent it a little over a week ago, which completely sucks. Ultimately, it is my own fault for not verifying delivery of the message, and sadly, when I have checked to see if he has responded, I only check to see if I have any new messages... Ugh...
> 
> Anyhow, lesson learned.
> 
> I will say straight away, if either of you have any interest in using this code as a starting point for making your own unit, you are more than welcome to do so, I will also give you the list of components you will need in order to build it, in total, if you don't bork your parts list, and end up buying things you do not need, and other things that you could have bought fewer of, it should only cost you in the range of ~$60 (assuming you are patient and can wait for the DS18B20 probes to arrive from overseas, they can be had for ~$1/probe, otherwise they will cost ~$2/probe). So yeah, if you are interested, go ahead and let me know and we can get your parts as quickly as you want. Otherwise, I will happily build the unit for you.


when does the script hang? I got the code and will run through it to see if I can see where it's hanging


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> @SpecTRe-X
> @wjturner78
> 
> Firstly, I have sent to both of you the code for the temperature display, it should be in your inbox...
> 
> I say 'should be' simply because of the crappy news... It seems the reason that I have not received a response from the programmer is because the previous message I sent him, with the updated code that he had requested (with some minor changes that I had made), did not send through for some reason, and when I went in today to read our message history I noticed that the last message was him asking for it. I am not sure how it failed to go through, but I sent it a little over a week ago, which completely sucks. Ultimately, it is my own fault for not verifying delivery of the message, and sadly, when I have checked to see if he has responded, I only check to see if I have any new messages... Ugh...
> 
> Anyhow, lesson learned.
> 
> I will say straight away, if either of you have any interest in using this code as a starting point for making your own unit, you are more than welcome to do so, I will also give you the list of components you will need in order to build it, in total, if you don't bork your parts list, and end up buying things you do not need, and other things that you could have bought fewer of, it should only cost you in the range of ~$60 (assuming you are patient and can wait for the DS18B20 probes to arrive from overseas, they can be had for ~$1/probe, otherwise they will cost ~$2/probe). So yeah, if you are interested, go ahead and let me know and we can get your parts as quickly as you want. Otherwise, I will happily build the unit for you.


A temp monitor unit? I haven't kept up with this part of the thread because it's sort of out of my league and not relevant to the the things I look for in this thread. OTH I may be interested in you building me a unit, depending on what exactly this unit is for and what it does that other temp sensing units don't do........

Bruce


----------



## wjturner78

help me out here guys...

door or no door i cant decide


Spoiler: with side panel











Spoiler: glass only


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> help me out here guys...
> 
> door or no door i cant decide
> 
> 
> Spoiler: with side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: glass only


Definitely door... That piece you have reflects everything, and it sort of looks... Janky...


----------



## Mega Man

Please Note this is not at all related to anything recently posted !~

i did want to post this, as everyone says, " prime is unrealistic, nothing you do will put that much load on " here is my counter argument !~ and i have been doing 3-6 movies a day for others that say you just abuse your chip needlessly
D:<




Spoiler: Disclaimers!



i do not condone pirating of movies, music or other forms of theft, all ripping is done by me, for me, and only of movies/music i actually own


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> when does the script hang? I got the code and will run through it to see if I can see where it's hanging


It actually doesn't hang, it's just that the update speed gets to be slow after being on for a while, additionally it has become much slower since the software was first written and installed (the final version I am using), when I first installed this version it was very quick and update about every 1,000 ms, but now it is about every 2,000-3,000ms, and it can get much worse when it goes without a reset for a week or so.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> help me out here guys...
> 
> door or no door i cant decide
> 
> 
> Spoiler: with side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: glass only


I think the full glass looks better but the glare is distracting and takes away from what is inside the case.

Here's the thing, you can get some anti glare film for that glass. From what I have seen you would have to get it in pieces and depending on how steady you are when putting it on will determine how good it looks. I am not sure but I believe there is anti glare spray/coating available for car glass you can use (RainX?).

Also if you are going to light the inside of the case really nice then that would probably defeat most (if not all) of that glare depending on how bright it is.

I just had an idea I wish I had the equipment to build. Imagine a case where the frame is made of clear acrylic (or heavy duty plastic) and the doors are all glass (gorilla?) or scratch resistant plexiglass. That would look so cool with the right kind of lighting and real good wire management.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Please Note this is not at all related to anything recently posted !~
> 
> i did want to post this, as everyone says, " prime is unrealistic, nothing you do will put that much load on " here is my counter argument !~ and i have been doing 3-6 movies a day for others that say you just abuse your chip needlessly
> D:<


Well, the load that you have on your cpu is quite different than the load that prime puts on your CPU... I can load my [email protected] to 100% and barely break a sweat at 60°C, but I load up prime, and my rig will easily peg 80°C. In fact, it is the only way I can get my processor to go above ~70°C.

Just for reference, I have a 400mm reservoir, two MCP35X (MCP35x2 cover) pumps, an EK monoblock, a bitspower 560mm rad, and a Hardware Labs Black Ice 280mm with 6x Noctua 140mm 1,200 PWM Redux fans. All of my fans are connected to a Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter through the CPU header, so that I can easily control the speed of all fans (the pumps are connected as well so that they are all at the same duty cycle).

So yeah, when you hear that prime loads a processor in ways that are unrealistic, it is entirely true. There is no real world process that loads a CPU like Prime does. Have you compared your temps and not just the CPU load? Heck, I can get my CPU to 100% load with Chrome, but the temps only hit about 35-45°C, under 100% load... Just one example of how the type of load makes a difference.


----------



## Mega Man

mine doesnt break 61 under prime
2x MCP350x2 total of 4 pumps
5x480 ( 3 monstas, 1 ut60 and 1 xt45 )

slowly converting all fans to my AP 30s pwm modded ( have the fans dont have the time ), it is actually mostly silent >:O ( and usually the fans dont spin up all the way, i have then staggered in 3 different groups first is some shut down completely )

DVDfab does not only load my pc more but heats it up far more, and is a far better stability test, on my amd it was the only way to stress my HT ( stock 2600 my oc is 3900 )

also my res is around the same maybe half IDK average rip takes ~ 1.5 hours and max my pc hits is like 65
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> help me out here guys...
> 
> door or no door i cant decide
> 
> 
> Spoiler: with side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: glass only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the full glass looks better but the glare is distracting and takes away from what is inside the case.
> 
> Here's the thing, you can get some anti glare film for that glass. From what I have seen you would have to get it in pieces and depending on how steady you are when putting it on will determine how good it looks. I am not sure but I believe there is anti glare spray/coating available for car glass you can use (RainX?).
> 
> Also if you are going to light the inside of the case really nice then that would probably defeat most (if not all) of that glare depending on how bright it is.
> 
> I just had an idea I wish I had the equipment to build. Imagine a case where the frame is made of clear acrylic (or heavy duty plastic) and the doors are all glass (gorilla?) or scratch resistant plexiglass. That would look so cool with the right kind of lighting and real good wire management.
Click to expand...

not a fan of the full glass sorry :/


----------



## wjturner78

thanks for the opinions guys!!! its greatly appreciated


----------



## vulcan78

Hey guys, I haven't been on here in a while but I wanted to relay a positive change with my mobo arrangement. Having recently picked up a new SSD (Crucial MX100) I wanted to see what kind of read and write improvement there would be so I ran Crystal Disk Mark before and after. To my dismay, the before speed was significantly lower than what the older drive was capable of (280 Mb/s read vs. 450) and then I remembered that I did have an issue attempting to switch the boot drive from a SATA 2 port to a SATA 3 port ("Windows couldn't find the boot drive, please insert Windows disc etc.") whereas before, intimidated I simply returned the boot drive to the original SATA 2 port, only this time I was receiving the same error on the same SATA 2 port so I was forced to deal with it regardless. So I muddled on through and inserted the thumb-drive with my backup of Windows 7 into a USB port and repaired and man am I glad I switched to SATA 3!

My read and write speeds effectively doubled!





Not only is everything noticeably snappier, with Windows, programs and games loading in about half the time as before, but my 3DMark Firestrike score went up as well, increasing 300 points GPU and 500 points CPU with the same driver and actually slightly lower GPU clocks!

Before:

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4649836

After:

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4951969

I am SUPER stoked, I had been running my rig with half the read and write speeds for the past year or so and this has been a huge bang-for-the-buck improvement in performance.

Also, cloning the OS over with the included Acronis True Image HD was a total breeze, with zero issues. In fact, the long version of this story is that I recently moved and needed to get my Alienware M18x R2 up and running again to keep my sane while I lived out of my car for a few weeks (i7 3920, 680M SLI, 16GB Kingston 1866MHz, 9k Firestrike: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4906451) so the boot drive from this was initially cloned over to this SSD. Then, once I got settled into my new place, I wanted to exchange that out for the 3-4 year old SSD out of my desktop as not only did the MX100 have significantly better read and writes (560 vs. 460 read, 510 vs 370 write) but also had double the capacity. So I then cloned the DTR's OS back to the HDD, put the Crucial MX100 into the desktop, cloned the desktop's OS over to that, and then put the desktop's original SSD into the laptop and then cloned the OS off of the HDD to that. All of which with zero issues and fairly fast as well, the desktop cloned all 230GB of OS from SSD to SSD in 7 minutes!

I've had a great experience with Acronis True Image and highly recommend it if anyone is pondering cloning their OS to an SSD that doesn't come with it such as Crucial's MX100.

I picked up this particular SSD as it was recommended as the best bang-for-the-buck SSD by PC Gamer, being only $200 for over 500GB capacity with read and write speeds exceeding 500 Mb/s.

http://www.pcgamer.com/how-do-ssds-affect-gaming-performance/

So for all you RIVBE guys, if your boot drive isn't on SATA 3, switch over as soon as you can!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> @SpecTRe-X
> @wjturner78
> 
> Firstly, I have sent to both of you the code for the temperature display, it should be in your inbox...
> 
> I say 'should be' simply because of the crappy news... It seems the reason that I have not received a response from the programmer is because the previous message I sent him, with the updated code that he had requested (with some minor changes that I had made), did not send through for some reason, and when I went in today to read our message history I noticed that the last message was him asking for it. I am not sure how it failed to go through, but I sent it a little over a week ago, which completely sucks. Ultimately, it is my own fault for not verifying delivery of the message, and sadly, when I have checked to see if he has responded, I only check to see if I have any new messages... Ugh...
> 
> Anyhow, lesson learned.
> 
> I will say straight away, if either of you have any interest in using this code as a starting point for making your own unit, you are more than welcome to do so, I will also give you the list of components you will need in order to build it, in total, if you don't bork your parts list, and end up buying things you do not need, and other things that you could have bought fewer of, it should only cost you in the range of ~$60 (assuming you are patient and can wait for the DS18B20 probes to arrive from overseas, they can be had for ~$1/probe, otherwise they will cost ~$2/probe). So yeah, if you are interested, go ahead and let me know and we can get your parts as quickly as you want. Otherwise, I will happily build the unit for you.






Damn, that's how it goes though eh? At least you noticed it before you jumped the guys throat for something that wasn't his fault lol.

I'm just fine buying it from you lol I swore off that kind of thing last time I worked with wiring!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> help me out here guys...
> 
> door or no door i cant decide


Yeah, door all the way.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Please Note this is not at all related to anything recently posted !~
> 
> i did want to post this, as everyone says, " prime is unrealistic, nothing you do will put that much load on " here is my counter argument !~ and i have been doing 3-6 movies a day for others that say you just abuse your chip needlessly
> D:<
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Disclaimers!
> 
> 
> 
> i do not condone pirating of movies, music or other forms of theft, all ripping is done by me, for me, and only of movies/music i actually own


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> mine doesnt break 61 under prime
> 2x MCP350x2 total of 4 pumps
> 5x480 ( 3 monstas, 1 ut60 and 1 xt45 )
> 
> slowly converting all fans to my AP 30s pwm modded ( have the fans dont have the time ), it is actually mostly silent >:O ( and usually the fans dont spin up all the way, i have then staggered in 3 different groups first is some shut down completely )
> 
> DVDfab does not only load my pc more but heats it up far more, and is a far better stability test, on my amd it was the only way to stress my HT ( stock 2600 my oc is 3900 )
> 
> also my res is around the same maybe half IDK average rip takes ~ 1.5 hours and max my pc hits is like 65
> not a fan of the full glass sorry :/






I've used dvdfab before and didn't see it that heavily loading my rig. And even on my old Q9650 it didn't take 1.5 hours per rip (usually around 45 minutes for a 2 hour movie iirc). Then again I think I turned on cuda acceleration.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Hey guys, I haven't been on here in a while but I wanted to relay a positive change with my mobo arrangement. Having recently picked up a new SSD (Crucial MX100) I wanted to see what kind of read and write improvement there would be so I ran Crystal Disk Mark before and after. To my dismay, the before speed was significantly lower than what the older drive was capable of (280 Mb/s read vs. 450) and then I remembered that I did have an issue attempting to switch the boot drive from a SATA 2 port to a SATA 3 port ("Windows couldn't find the boot drive, please insert Windows disc etc.") whereas before, intimidated I simply returned the boot drive to the original SATA 2 port, only this time I was receiving the same error on the same SATA 2 port so I was forced to deal with it regardless. So I muddled on through and inserted the thumb-drive with my backup of Windows 7 into a USB port and repaired and man am I glad I switched to SATA 3!
> 
> My read and write speeds effectively doubled!
> 
> Not only is everything noticeably snappier, with Windows, programs and games loading in about half the time as before, but my 3DMark Firestrike score went up as well, increasing 300 points GPU and 500 points CPU with the same driver and actually slightly lower GPU clocks!
> 
> Before:
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4649836
> 
> After:
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4951969
> 
> I am SUPER stoked, I had been running my rig with half the read and write speeds for the past year or so and this has been a huge bang-for-the-buck improvement in performance.
> 
> Also, cloning the OS over with the included Acronis True Image HD was a total breeze, with zero issues. In fact, the long version of this story is that I recently moved and needed to get my Alienware M18x R2 up and running again to keep my sane while I lived out of my car for a few weeks (i7 3920, 680M SLI, 16GB Kingston 1866MHz, 9k Firestrike: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4906451) so the boot drive from this was initially cloned over to this SSD. Then, once I got settled into my new place, I wanted to exchange that out for the 3-4 year old SSD out of my desktop as not only did the MX100 have significantly better read and writes (560 vs. 460 read, 510 vs 370 write) but also had double the capacity. So I then cloned the DTR's OS back to the HDD, put the Crucial MX100 into the desktop, cloned the desktop's OS over to that, and then put the desktop's original SSD into the laptop and then cloned the OS off of the HDD to that. All of which with zero issues and fairly fast as well, the desktop cloned all 230GB of OS from SSD to SSD in 7 minutes!
> 
> I've had a great experience with Acronis True Image and highly recommend it if anyone is pondering cloning their OS to an SSD that doesn't come with it such as Crucial's MX100.
> 
> I picked up this particular SSD as it was recommended as the best bang-for-the-buck SSD by PC Gamer, being only $200 for over 500GB capacity with read and write speeds exceeding 500 Mb/s.
> 
> http://www.pcgamer.com/how-do-ssds-affect-gaming-performance/
> 
> So for all you RIVBE guys, if your boot drive isn't on SATA 3, switch over as soon as you can!






I run a pass-through setup with my OS on one drive, non-essential programs on another and my master user directory on a third and don't have issues with speed even though my drives are Sata II. To be honest, even if SSDs could finish a task before I started it, they're too expensive. For the cost of 3tb storage equivalent in SSDs I could have 16 TB of storage (~$100/TB vs ~$200/.5TB) of sata 3 HDDs.

I've had better experiences with Macrium reflect myself. Found it to be faster; less buggy when running jobs from a boot cd too. If you haven't tried it I'd suggest taking it for a spin.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Seeing your post I decided to run a read write test on my 840 pro and the numbers I got horrible compared to what they should be.
I should be reading up in the 520's to 530's for both but below is what I got when I did the test. All my drives are connected to the SATA 3 ports so I look into optimizing the drives. I have windows 8.1 and it says optimization is not available for the drive and I could not find any guides on how to get better results other than through optimization....
What can I do?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Seeing your post I decided to run a read write test on my 840 pro and the numbers I got horrible compared to what they should be.
> I should be reading up in the 520's to 530's for both but below is what I got when I did the test. All my drives are connected to the SATA 3 ports so I look into optimizing the drives. I have windows 8.1 and it says optimization is not available for the drive and I could not find any guides on how to get better results other than through optimization....
> What can I do?


samsung has released several firmware updates to supposedly fix the issue. overtime they apperantly slow down


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> samsung has released several firmware updates to supposedly fix the issue. overtime they apperantly slow down


The only firmware update for the 840 pro 256gb is dated June 4th 2013 and I believe I have that update (though I don't remember how to check).
I may go so far as to contact Samsung on Monday to see what's up but I would like to see what you guys recommend in the meantime...


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The only firmware update for the 840 pro 256gb is dated June 4th 2013 and I believe I have that update (though I don't remember how to check).
> I may go so far as to contact Samsung on Monday to see what's up but I would like to see what you guys recommend in the meantime...


download the samsung magician


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Seeing your post I decided to run a read write test on my 840 pro and the numbers I got horrible compared to what they should be.
> I should be reading up in the 520's to 530's for both but below is what I got when I did the test. All my drives are connected to the SATA 3 ports so I look into optimizing the drives. I have windows 8.1 and it says optimization is not available for the drive and I could not find any guides on how to get better results other than through optimization....
> What can I do?


The only way to recover performance from an SSD is to do a secure erase. MANY motherboard manufacturers have an implementation within the BIOS.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I did that. I ran it and it said I had the latest firmware update. Then I got essentially the same results as before. I did some of the OS optimization it recommended and restarted and my numbers got lower (250 read speeds) then I noticed the RAPID tab, looked into that and enabled it which caused a restart... and these are my numbers now:


I first ran the test in Magician and thought they were a little high so I ran Crystal Disk Mark and it came up with even more outrageous numbers.
Don't those numbers seem a bit unrealistic?
Is there another program I can run that could offer a third opinion?

Bruce

EDIT: now to install my new Aerotek fan to cool the southbridge, and then onto overclocking!


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Seeing your post I decided to run a read write test on my 840 pro and the numbers I got horrible compared to what they should be.
> I should be reading up in the 520's to 530's for both but below is what I got when I did the test. All my drives are connected to the SATA 3 ports so I look into optimizing the drives. I have windows 8.1 and it says optimization is not available for the drive and I could not find any guides on how to get better results other than through optimization....
> What can I do?


Are you running in AHCI or RAID? The difference in performance can be seen in the following link, which is a guide for Windows 7 (do not use this for 8.1) with a link to how to do it for 8.1 after that.

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=313676&page=6

https://pricklytech.wordpress.com/2014/02/04/windows-8-1-enabling-ahci-after-installing-windows/

I think how full the drive is also has a lot of influence on read and write speeds as well. My new Crucial is only about 45% full at the moment.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I did that. I ran it and it said I had the latest firmware update. Then I got essentially the same results as before. I did some of the OS optimization it recommended and restarted and my numbers got lower (250 read speeds) then I noticed the RAPID tab, looked into that and enabled it which caused a restart... and these are my numbers now:
> 
> 
> I first ran the test in Magician and thought they were a little high so I ran Crystal Disk Mark and it came up with even more outrageous numbers.
> Don't those numbers seem a bit unrealistic?
> Is there another program I can run that could offer a third opinion?
> 
> Bruce
> 
> EDIT: now to install my new Aerotek fan to cool the southbridge, and then onto overclocking!


LOL, I think those are KB/s not MB/s, not even the new NVME Intel 750 can attain those speeds.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> LOL, I think those are KB/s not MB/s, not even the new NVME Intel 750 can attain those speeds.


I looked into AHCI and found a thread on OC.net that recommended another test to run to see if AHCI is enabled.
It looks like I may have to enable AHCI but these are the results of my numbers....


----------



## vulcan78

While we're on this subject, does anyone know if Asus' Hyper Kit will work with X79 boards?

Edit:

Found this in the comments section here from JJ at ASUS:

https://pcdiy.asus.com/2015/04/the-fastest-ssd-intel-750-series-nvme-ssd/

_I will be posting a "tested" list but it will unofficial as it is not something we can communicate it has passed validation and interoprability testing but I will disclose my testing results once complete.

As for the RIVBE I can say I was able to post and boot successfully with the PCIe Intel 750._


----------



## vulcan78

Update:

Please vote for NVMe X79 support here!

http://pcdiy.asus.com/2015/04/asus-nvme-support-poll-voice-your-opinion/


----------



## wjturner78

Electroluminescent water lines


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Update:
> 
> Please vote for NVMe X79 support here!
> 
> http://pcdiy.asus.com/2015/04/asus-nvme-support-poll-voice-your-opinion/


Voted! WHo wouldn't want that in their system?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Electroluminescent water lines
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those are pretty nice, but do they come in blue?
You got a link as to where to get them?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Those are pretty nice, but do they come in blue?
> You got a link as to where to get them?


i made them... it's 3/8 tubing with sata sleeving over it and el - tape in between with anti kink coiled over the top. ...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> i made them... it's 3/8 tubing with sata sleeving over it and el - tape in between with anti kink coiled over the top. ...


oh cool!

on the subject of the super high speeds.... I'm a goof, the asstor64 (in post 12080) are the asmedia drivers for AHCI.
Also my numbers are not the highest reported it seems.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Voted! WHo wouldn't want that in their system?


Thanks, spread the word!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Thanks, spread the word!


Well the only people I know that have an X79 system are on here.... so I believe the word has been spread!

Onto another issue. Well it's more of "how do I..."
I went into the bios to start the OC thing and apparently all my core ratio limits are set to auto and I have no idea how to get it off of "auto".
I've read that it means it is in a factory setting. How do I get it out of factory setting so I can change the core ratio limits.... I am doing this in accordance with the ivy bridge guide on the Asus site.
Thanks ahead!


----------



## Madmaxneo

I still have not been able to OC the CPU through the BIOS because I can't get it out of auto mode on the CPU ratio limits....
So I tried the AI suite, It looks pretty smooth and eveything is set in there except it doesn't read my CPU fan because it is a water cooler. I now realize why a lot of people don't like the AI suite. Because no matter what I set the core value to I would get a restart within a few seconds...
So I tried the OC panel and I have it set on level to which sets my OC to a 4.2 max. So far so good though I haven't run any stress tests. I did notice one thing. My temps haven't changed by barely 3 degrees! But the issue is the temp has been steady in the mid 30's which is 10 degrees hotter than what it normally is, and this was before I started OCing. So I think that new fan I put in that blows air directly over the southbridge is possibly causing a disruption in the airflow, thereby making it warmer.


----------



## Mega Man

At spec I also only do high (max) quality 2 pass


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well the only people I know that have an X79 system are on here.... so I believe the word has been spread!
> 
> Onto another issue. Well it's more of "how do I..."
> I went into the bios to start the OC thing and apparently all my core ratio limits are set to auto and I have no idea how to get it off of "auto".
> I've read that it means it is in a factory setting. How do I get it out of factory setting so I can change the core ratio limits.... I am doing this in accordance with the ivy bridge guide on the Asus site.
> Thanks ahead!


You just click the first box and replace "auto" with your multiplier from what I recall.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I still have not been able to OC the CPU through the BIOS because I can't get it out of auto mode on the CPU ratio limits....
> So I tried the AI suite, It looks pretty smooth and eveything is set in there except it doesn't read my CPU fan because it is a water cooler. I now realize why a lot of people don't like the AI suite. Because no matter what I set the core value to I would get a restart within a few seconds...
> So I tried the OC panel and I have it set on level to which sets my OC to a 4.2 max. So far so good though I haven't run any stress tests. I did notice one thing. My temps haven't changed by barely 3 degrees! But the issue is the temp has been steady in the mid 30's which is 10 degrees hotter than what it normally is, and this was before I started OCing. So I think that new fan I put in that blows air directly over the southbridge is possibly causing a disruption in the airflow, thereby making it warmer.


You mean you used an auto-overclock? I tried that for giggles when I got the board and was alarmed to find that for a 4.2ghz OC they auto profile assigned 1.4v of vcore. You may be seeing the result of something similar.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> At spec I also only do high (max) quality 2 pass


It's been a while since I've used it to be honest but I recall I was ripping them at the same quality of the content. It was all for not though as the person whose library I was digitizing wasn't happy with how much space it was going to take up. Something like 12 titles in and the work was canceled. People lol.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Well using the OC panel for OCing I eventually got that blue screen (happy face?) telling me there was a problem with my system and it restarted. So until I can get out of this auto value for the core ratio I am stuck in non OC mode.

I did try clicking on the auto but it will not let me change any values. On the Extreme Tweaker page of the bios; The AI Overclock Tuner selection has three options: Manual, Auto, and XMP. My default setting is XMP. If I put it in manual I get a CPU Core ratio menu that has Auto, Sync All Cores, and Per Core. No matter which one I go to the core ratio stays in auto. I somehow have to get it out of the factory setting.

But how?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well using the OC panel for OCing I eventually got that blue screen (happy face?) telling me there was a problem with my system and it restarted. So until I can get out of this auto value for the core ratio I am stuck in non OC mode.
> 
> I did try clicking on the auto but it will not let me change any values. On the Extreme Tweaker page of the bios; The AI Overclock Tuner selection has three options: Manual, Auto, and XMP. My default setting is XMP. If I put it in manual I get a CPU Core ratio menu that has Auto, Sync All Cores, and Per Core. No matter which one I go to the core ratio stays in auto. I somehow have to get it out of the factory setting.
> 
> But how?


Put it in manual then make sure it says all cores then click on 1st core and change the number to what you want... Easy Peasy you might also need to raise volts also i dont like over 1.4


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Put it in manual then make sure it says all cores then click on 1st core and change the number to what you want... Easy Peasy you might also need to raise volts also i dont like over 1.4


I tried that as I mentioned in the post just before your reply:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well using the OC panel for OCing I eventually got that blue screen (happy face?) telling me there was a problem with my system and it restarted. So until I can get out of this auto value for the core ratio I am stuck in non OC mode.
> 
> I did try clicking on the auto but it will not let me change any values. On the Extreme Tweaker page of the bios; The AI Overclock Tuner selection has three options: Manual, Auto, and XMP. My default setting is XMP. If I put it in manual I get a CPU Core ratio menu that has Auto, Sync All Cores, and Per Core. No matter which one I go to the core ratio stays in auto. I somehow have to get it out of the factory setting.
> 
> But how?


I put it the AI OC tuner in manual and my core ratio values are still in auto. I tried clicking on the "auto" and it will not let me change the values, and yes I even put it in sync all cores.
Before anyone asks I do have the 0801 bios.


----------



## Madmaxneo

But I did see that CPU level up worked just fine, though I didn't let it boot all the way up. I clicked it and it set all my core ratio values to what I chose on the list.
But I have heard that CPU level up isn't that stable. What are all your opinions on this? Another problem with using CPU level up is that it takes my RAM out of XMP mode and I would have to enter all the values for the ram manually and I am not sure how to do that.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I can change my values now. I am not sure why but I can OC now just fine.

I need some advice.
Prior to doing all this I ran the tests through RealTemp (sensor test, XS bench and the 10 min sensor test).
Right now I am set at the base starting point of 4.3ghz and I'm only running at the mid 30's for temps and my fans are running at their typical low/quiet settings.
I ran the prime95 test for about 15 mins with no issues.
If I am going to start walking it up by 1ghz each time, what other numbers should I keep an eye on or change to hopefully get higher but stable speeds?
in a little while I am going to boost it up to 4.4ghz and run the stress test .
But for how long should I run the stress test?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I can change my values now. I am not sure why but I can OC now just fine.
> 
> I need some advice.
> Prior to doing all this I ran the tests through RealTemp (sensor test, XS bench and the 10 min sensor test).
> Right now I am set at the base starting point of 4.3ghz and I'm only running at the mid 30's for temps and my fans are running at their typical low/quiet settings.
> I ran the prime95 test for about 15 mins with no issues.
> If I am going to start walking it up by 1ghz each time, what other numbers should I keep an eye on or change to hopefully get higher but stable speeds?
> in a little while I am going to boost it up to 4.4ghz and run the stress test .
> But for how long should I run the stress test?


Typically an hour or 2 of prime (blend?) will do. 15 minutes isn't long enough to really tell you anything useful I think.

There is a guide here for SB-E, IB-E is more or less the same but with slightly different voltages iirc. The white papers for IB-E are easy enough to find with google and the voltage tables should be near the end in the appendices.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I can change my values now. I am not sure why but I can OC now just fine.
> 
> I need some advice.
> Prior to doing all this I ran the tests through RealTemp (sensor test, XS bench and the 10 min sensor test).
> Right now I am set at the base starting point of 4.3ghz and I'm only running at the mid 30's for temps and my fans are running at their typical low/quiet settings.
> I ran the prime95 test for about 15 mins with no issues.
> If I am going to start walking it up by 1ghz each time, what other numbers should I keep an eye on or change to hopefully get higher but stable speeds?
> in a little while I am going to boost it up to 4.4ghz and run the stress test .
> But for how long should I run the stress test?


Why are you not overclocking in bios? With right settings I believe that is way better than that OC-panel (my OC Panel is still in the box).

Anyways, download AIDA64 for stability testing, two hours of that then it should be good, if that is not enough for you do some heavy gaming (2-3 hours). If it is stable both in AIDA64 and while gaming it is stable in my mind.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Why are you not overclocking in bios? With right settings I believe that is way better than that OC-panel (my OC Panel is still in the box).
> 
> Anyways, download AIDA64 for stability testing, two hours of that then it should be good, if that is not enough for you do some heavy gaming (2-3 hours). If it is stable both in AIDA64 and while gaming it is stable in my mind.


I am OCing in the BIOS. I stated earlier that I couldn't get a stable OC in any of the other methods.
The highest OC you can get in the OC panel is 4.2 and it isn't stable.
Though is it possible to set it so I access to my OC saved profiles through the OC panel. Because I'd like to leave it in normal mode when not doing anything and OC when working in a 3d graphics program or doing some "heavy" gaming (though my graphics card is still sub par for "heavy").

I have AIDA64, Prime95, and another one or two. Once I find my limit before obvious instability I will probably do stress tests in all three. Then for actual working the 3d program I mess with (DAZ3D) puts my CPU under 100% load when rendering. I still need to get more RAM (it's barely over $100 for 2 8gb sticks right now) but the video card is my next purchase (GTX 980 FTW)....

BTW I am still on the 4.3 ghz OC and my temps are steady in the low 30's. I will be getting the XSPC Rampage 4 Black Waterblock Set so that will hopefully help with the high OC's I am going to attempt eventually.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> In case anybody else comes across this problem, after quite a lot of troubleshooting the bios, hardware, and OS, I determined that the culprit was Microsoft (as usual). For some reason, kb3000850 ("November 2014 update rollup for Windows RT 8.1, Windows 8.1, and Windows Server 2012 R2"), which was just re-released on April 23, 2015 with a new kbfix attached to fix a problem with the previous itteration's installation, causes my Windows 8.1 to lose Additional Turbo Voltage. I think it's messing with MEI's sense of the cpu's c-states. With the offending Windows Update rollup installed, I'm able to use Offset vcore in the usual way to achieve stable voltage, but it will NOT apply any "Additional Turbo Voltage". It seems logical to me that the problem would be Windows *REPORTING* of the voltage being applied, but it seems to be somehow actually BLOCKING the Additional Turbo Voltage from being applied as it BSODs if I attempt to run Cinebench or Realbench, whereas at my known stable voltage using ONLY vcore Offset (which is the same vcore my Offset + Additional Turbo Voltage should be applying if it were working properly) it's rock solid stable as it has been for years.
> 
> Notably, XTU still shows Turbo enabled and functioning AND shows the Additional Turbo Amount set per my bios/uefi instructions even though the Additional Turbo Voltage is not being applied. Perplexing.
> 
> Also, I can't for the life of me figure out what's different about my system that I seem to be the only person who's experienced this conflict. The only thing I can think of is that maybe Offset vcore + Additional Turbo Voltage with c-states & EIST enabled is an uncommon setup among Rampage Black users? Most people seem to use Offset vcore by itself and disable c-states. But I prefer to have mine tuned as tightly as possible to preserve my oc's performance AND my chip's lifespan.
> 
> https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/3000850 <--- *tl;dr:* USE kb3000850 WITH CAUTION


Again, following up on my own post just in case anybody else comes across this and can benefit from my troubleshooting and/or provide any insight or suggestions...

Since then, I've ditched Windows 8.1 altogether, and switched to dual boot with Windows 7 Ultimate & Windows 10 Preview. Using the exact same bios settings, Windows 7 behaves absolutely as expected. With EIST & cstates enabled, the cpu downclocks to x12 when idle & goes to 4600mhz (x46) with vcore= ~1.344v. This is with offset +.025v & "Additional Turbo Voltage" +.055v.

In Windows 10, however, with absolutely NO CHANGE to bios settings and (and using the same Windows Power Options Win 7), under load the cpu upclocks to 4600mhz (46x), but only reports vcore of ~1.296v, which is equal to only vid+offset, *no additional turbo voltage* at all. XTU reports that the cpu is NOT throttling, IS Turbo enabled, and IS set to .055v additional turbo voltage. After much troubleshooting, the only thing I've concluded is that the chip thinks it's going into Turbo Mode, but the vrm isn't getting the message? And somehow, this voltage discrepancy MUST be related to the OS environment, because the hardware, with the exact same settings, is acting exactly as expected under the other OS. Now, I realize Windows 10 is still in beta and problems should be expected, but note that the whole reason I switched over (clean installation, btw) was because the latest updates to Windows 8.1 had caused the exact same problem.

I'm stumped. I posted similarly on the ROG forum, but I don't think Raja et al are paying much attention to the X79 series anymore, considering none of the drivers or the bios has been updated for over a year. :\ I'm tempted to just F5 the bios and try overclocking through the XTU interface instead (maybe setting the voltages within the OS environment would FORCE it to "see" Turbo Mode?), but I'm almost afraid to touch it since my settings are rock solid stable under Windows 7. The last thing I want to do is troubleshoot myself into having no working OS at all. lol So, I'm most likely going to have to switch to just +offset mode, i.e. abandon "Additional Turbo Voltage" altogether - at least in Windows 10. Fortunately, everything else is responding as expected (i.e. all cores = 46x, etc), it's only Turbo voltage that isn't being applied (I've tried googling details on what sensor reports, etc controls Turbo voltage, but googling anything about "Turbo Mode" returns an avalanche of people asking why their cpu is at 1200mhz when they're not using it LOL)

As always, I'm open to and grateful for any input or suggestions.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Again, following up on my own post just in case anybody else comes across this and can benefit from my troubleshooting and/or provide any insight or suggestions...
> 
> Since then, I've ditched Windows 8.1 altogether, and switched to dual boot with Windows 7 Ultimate & Windows 10 Preview. Using the exact same bios settings, Windows 7 behaves absolutely as expected. With EIST & cstates enabled, the cpu downclocks to x12 when idle & goes to 4600mhz (x46) with vcore= ~1.344v. This is with offset +.025v & "Additional Turbo Voltage" +.055v.
> 
> In Windows 10, however, with absolutely NO CHANGE to bios settings and (and using the same Windows Power Options Win 7), under load the cpu upclocks to 4600mhz (46x), but only reports vcore of ~1.296v, which is equal to only vid+offset, *no additional turbo voltage* at all. XTU reports that the cpu is NOT throttling, IS Turbo enabled, and IS set to .055v additional turbo voltage. After much troubleshooting, the only thing I've concluded is that the chip thinks it's going into Turbo Mode, but the vrm isn't getting the message? And somehow, this voltage discrepancy MUST be related to the OS environment, because the hardware, with the exact same settings, is acting exactly as expected under the other OS. Now, I realize Windows 10 is still in beta and problems should be expected, but note that the whole reason I switched over (clean installation, btw) was because the latest updates to Windows 8.1 had caused the exact same problem.
> 
> I'm stumped. I posted similarly on the ROG forum, but I don't think Raja et al are paying much attention to the X79 series anymore, considering none of the drivers or the bios has been updated for over a year. :\ I'm tempted to just F5 the bios and try overclocking through the XTU interface instead (maybe setting the voltages within the OS environment would FORCE it to "see" Turbo Mode?), but I'm almost afraid to touch it since my settings are rock solid stable under Windows 7. The last thing I want to do is troubleshoot myself into having no working OS at all. lol So, I'm most likely going to have to switch to just +offset mode, i.e. abandon "Additional Turbo Voltage" altogether - at least in Windows 10. Fortunately, everything else is responding as expected (i.e. all cores = 46x, etc), it's only Turbo voltage that isn't being applied (I've tried googling details on what sensor reports, etc controls Turbo voltage, but googling anything about "Turbo Mode" returns an avalanche of people asking why their cpu is at 1200mhz when they're not using it LOL)
> 
> As always, I'm open to and grateful for any input or suggestions.


I have no idea how to fix the problems you have or have an inclination as to how to solve it, but I do have a suggestion. I believe there is a windows 10 bug reporting procedure. I'd report this and see if they come up with a possible fix. It may take some time but it would be good for others experiencing the same problem.


----------



## Goggle Eye

The power on switch and Re Set Switch (Lamptrons, Case CaseLabs Magnum 8) on the front of the case is not working. Tried the re set switch on the power pins. Tried 2 different R4BE mother boards (both are new boards). The system will power on if you jump the 2 power pins on the system Panel Connector with a screw driver.

Manual Page 1-49: ATX power button/soft-off button (2 Pin PWRSW. The connector is for the system power button. Pressing the power button turns the system on or puts the system in sleep or soft mode depending on BIOS Settings. Pressing the power switch for more than four seconds while system is On turns the system Off.

What settings in BIOS is the manual referring to, "C-States"? Tried various settings in the BIOS to see if the switches are disabled? Is there a way to test the switches with a multi meter to see if they are working?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have no idea how to fix the problems you have or have an inclination as to how to solve it, but I do have a suggestion. I believe there is a windows 10 bug reporting procedure. I'd report this and see if they come up with a possible fix. It may take some time but it would be good for others experiencing the same problem.


Yeah, thanks, I'll definitely report it over there, although I have a feeling Microsoft is going to consider it an Asus hardware problem, not a Windows 10 bug. I just can't quite wrap my head around XTU seeing Turbo mode & Turbo Voltage while every other sensor reports non-Turbo performance....or what the OS could possibly have to do with my voltage settings in the bios in the first place.

In other news, aside from this one very specific and very technical hardware issue, Windows 10 is the *****. It's so fast it makes my old Windows 7 & 8 installations feel like somebody left the emergency brake on.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, thanks, I'll definitely report it over there, although I have a feeling Microsoft is going to consider it an Asus hardware problem, not a Windows 10 bug. I just can't quite wrap my head around XTU seeing Turbo mode & Turbo Voltage while every other sensor reports non-Turbo performance....or what the OS could possibly have to do with my voltage settings in the bios in the first place.


You never know what they have done in the latest iteration of windows. They might offer an idea as to what is causing it based on what has changed in the latest update and windows 10. You also might think about reporting the problem to Asus if they point you in that direction.
OTH, I haven't heard of anyone else with the same problem so you might want to look at whatever programs you have running that monitor voltage or similar programs. In my uneducated opinion it actually sounds like a software conflict with the latest update. So you might want to look into that.

BTW, have you checked to see if you are you running the latest BIOS update for the RIVBE?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You never know what they have done in the latest iteration of windows. They might offer an idea as to what is causing it based on what has changed in the latest update and windows 10. You also might think about reporting the problem to Asus if they point you in that direction.
> OTH, I haven't heard of anyone else with the same problem so you might want to look at whatever programs you have running that monitor voltage or similar programs. In my uneducated opinion it actually sounds like a software conflict with the latest update. So you might want to look into that.
> 
> BTW, have you checked to see if you are you running the latest BIOS update for the RIVBE?


Yes, I'm on the latest bios...also tried rolling back to a prior version, as well as re-flashing the current to a clean image.

It does indeed *seem* like a software conflict, which is a problem I could work with, but the fact that I can pass Realbench to infinity in Windows 7, but crash during the 2nd set of tests (media encoding) in Windows 8 & 10 at the *same bios settings* tells me it's not just that the sensor reports aren't being read properly within windows, the chip actually isn't getting the right voltage (otherwise it shouldn't crash).

But you're right, at this point I should probably follow up with Microsoft, Intel, or Asus. I think I've exhausted every bit of technical knowledge and troubleshooting I have at my own personal disposal.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

@chrisnyc75 It's definitely software issues with how power states are being managed. I'd go through and look at the power management settings in win10 to make sure some new option isn't causing it. After that you'd likely be back to waiting on a response from MS/Intel/Asus.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> The power on switch and Re Set Switch (Lamptrons, Case CaseLabs Magnum 8) on the front of the case is not working. Tried the re set switch on the power pins. Tried 2 different R4BE mother boards (both are new boards). The system will power on if you jump the 2 power pins on the system Panel Connector with a screw driver.
> 
> Manual Page 1-49: ATX power button/soft-off button (2 Pin PWRSW. The connector is for the system power button. Pressing the power button turns the system on or puts the system in sleep or soft mode depending on BIOS Settings. Pressing the power switch for more than four seconds while system is On turns the system Off.
> 
> What settings in BIOS is the manual referring to, "C-States"? Tried various settings in the BIOS to see if the switches are disabled? Is there a way to test the switches with a multi meter to see if they are working?


Make sure you have the positive and negative wires going to the right pins. If you already do and they still aren't working you'll need a multi-meter to test for continuity when the switch button is depressed. If there is no continuity then the switch is bad.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I can change my values now. I am not sure why but I can OC now just fine.
> 
> I need some advice.
> Prior to doing all this I ran the tests through RealTemp (sensor test, XS bench and the 10 min sensor test).
> Right now I am set at the base starting point of 4.3ghz and I'm only running at the mid 30's for temps and my fans are running at their typical low/quiet settings.
> I ran the prime95 test for about 15 mins with no issues.
> If I am going to start walking it up by 1ghz each time, what other numbers should I keep an eye on or change to hopefully get higher but stable speeds?
> in a little while I am going to boost it up to 4.4ghz and run the stress test .
> But for how long should I run the stress test?
> 
> 
> 
> Why are you not overclocking in bios? With right settings I believe that is way better than that OC-panel (my OC Panel is still in the box).
> 
> Anyways, download AIDA64 for stability testing, two hours of that then it should be good, if that is not enough for you do some heavy gaming (2-3 hours). If it is stable both in AIDA64 and while gaming it is stable in my mind.
Click to expand...

actually the oc panel ( speaking as one who ACTUALLY used/uses it ) is very useful as it does CHANGE THE BIOS temp. and allows you to test, and i have 4.8 ( vs 4.7 ) stable thanks to it

and 2 hours of adia is laughable imo. to call that stable is a slap in the face, now the great thing about stability is it is SUBJECTIVE

i am sorry madmax, i need bios because idr your rig :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> The power on switch and Re Set Switch (Lamptrons, Case CaseLabs Magnum 8) on the front of the case is not working. Tried the re set switch on the power pins. Tried 2 different R4BE mother boards (both are new boards). The system will power on if you jump the 2 power pins on the system Panel Connector with a screw driver.
> 
> Manual Page 1-49: ATX power button/soft-off button (2 Pin PWRSW. The connector is for the system power button. Pressing the power button turns the system on or puts the system in sleep or soft mode depending on BIOS Settings. Pressing the power switch for more than four seconds while system is On turns the system Off.
> 
> What settings in BIOS is the manual referring to, "C-States"? Tried various settings in the BIOS to see if the switches are disabled? Is there a way to test the switches with a multi meter to see if they are working?
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you have the positive and negative wires going to the right pins. If you already do and they still aren't working you'll need a multi-meter to test for continuity when the switch button is depressed. If there is no continuity then the switch is bad.
Click to expand...

mechanical switches do not have a pos and neg they have 2 contacts that meet, that will not fix it, he needs a multi meter and to test the switches to see if the ( a ) wiring is hooked up properly and ( b ) if a is ok then the switch is functional

if he needs help wiring i can help him in a pm


----------



## SpecTRe-X

@chrisnyc75 Could you point to a guide or tell me how to use the "additional turbo voltage" with an offset vcore? I wouldn't mind clocking back up to 4.6 but didn't want to use such a high offset for idle usage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> actually the oc panel ( speaking as one who ACTUALLY used/uses it ) is very useful as it does CHANGE THE BIOS temp. and allows you to test, and i have 4.8 ( vs 4.7 ) stable thanks to it
> 
> and 2 hours of adia is laughable imo. to call that stable is a slap in the face, now the great thing about stability is it is SUBJECTIVE
> 
> i am sorry madmax, i need bios because idr your rig :/
> mechanical switches do not have a pos and neg they have 2 contacts that meet, that will not fix it, he needs a multi meter and to test the switches to see if the ( a ) wiring is hooked up properly and ( b ) if a is ok then the switch is functional
> 
> if he needs help wiring i can help him in a pm


Ah, yeah that's right. I don't know why I thought polarity mattered for the power switches. Good catch.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> actually the oc panel ( speaking as one who ACTUALLY used/uses it ) is very useful as it does CHANGE THE BIOS temp. and allows you to test, and i have 4.8 ( vs 4.7 ) stable thanks to it
> 
> and 2 hours of adia is laughable imo. to call that stable is a slap in the face, now the great thing about stability is it is SUBJECTIVE
> 
> i am sorry madmax, i need bios because idr your rig :/


It's in my sig...
I just used the the OC settings and it only had two settings, level 1 and level 2. Level 2 was 4.2ghz. I have been running it at 4.3 all day as I have been to busy to try any higher.
Are you using it according to the manual?


----------



## Mega Man

i dont understand what you mean :/

" are you using it according to the manual ? "

i ment i need bios screenshots :/


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont understand what you mean :/
> 
> " are you using it according to the manual ? "
> 
> i ment i need bios screenshots :/


Oh, lol. apologies
I meant are you using the OC panel in accordance with the instruction manual that came with the board. I haven't looked at that in a while.

I think my bios would be the same as yours so not sure why you would need screenshots of that?
I am just wondering what is the best way to walk the voltage up by. But you said you use the OC panel, maybe you could teach me to do that.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> actually the oc panel ( speaking as one who ACTUALLY used/uses it ) is very useful as it does CHANGE THE BIOS temp. and allows you to test, and i have 4.8 ( vs 4.7 ) stable thanks to it
> 
> mechanical switches do not have a pos and neg they have 2 contacts that meet, that will not fix it, he needs a multi meter and to test the switches to see if the ( a ) wiring is hooked up properly and ( b ) if a is ok then the switch is functional.
> 
> The LED on the switch must be connected correctly, Not sure just asking? + to + and _- to -?
> 
> if he needs help wiring i can help him in a pm


Thank you very much for the offer on wiring the switches. They are original switches in a M8 Case. Ran a test with a multi meter on the reset and power switch. Both switches are dead. Just a wild guess both swtiches where working a capacitor came off the original R4BE must have over volted both switches? Since replaced the R4BE with a new one and Asus replaced the original with a new one. The switches will not work on either R4BE. Wanted to confirm before placing the order for switches at CaseLabs.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> actually the oc panel ( speaking as one who ACTUALLY used/uses it ) is very useful as it does CHANGE THE BIOS temp. and allows you to test, and i have 4.8 ( vs 4.7 ) stable thanks to it
> 
> and 2 hours of adia is laughable imo. to call that stable is a slap in the face, now the great thing about stability is it is SUBJECTIVE


Never tried the OC Panel (and I do not need too either).









About AIDA64 for stability, I am sure you know who I bought my chip from and he said that two hours of AIDA64 should be good for that chip, I still listen to him. Every setting I have got from him is rock solid on my 4930K, even "just" running AIDA64 for two hours. I also said "if that is not enough for you do some (2-3 hours) of gaming", in my experience unstable overclocks BSODs FAST in like Crysis 3 and a few other titles, I am sure you have tried it as well. Talking about subjective, your thought on what I consider stable does not matter.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

@Mega Man


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> @chrisnyc75 Could you point to a guide or tell me how to use the "additional turbo voltage" with an offset vcore? I wouldn't mind clocking back up to 4.6 but didn't want to use such a high offset for idle usage.
> Ah, yeah that's right. I don't know why I thought polarity mattered for the power switches. Good catch.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1426258/overclocking-i7-4930k-help/1210#post_23799072

Start by setting vcore offset to +.005 and increase in increments of 5mv until you are able to fully load Windows. Once you're stable at idle in Windows, incrementally increase "Additional Turbo Voltage" until you're stable under load. Once you're Cinebench stable at 100% load, if/when you crash at idle, increase vcore offset +.005v until it's stable at both load AND idle.

The idea is to get +offset as low as possible while simultaneously increasing Additional Turbo Voltage to compensate. That way, you're feeding it as little voltage as possible when it's not doing anything, but allowing it as much as it needs under pressure. If it crashes when you benchmark, add +offset. If it crashes when it's idle (or when you're just doing everyday browsing etc), add Additional Turbo Voltage.









And if you happen to be running Windows 10, report back and let me know if it's applying Additional Turbo Voltage or not? I reported my recent issue to Microsoft last night.... didn't get a real answer, but a site manager directed me to report it through the official app, so maybe somebody there will take notice.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1426258/overclocking-i7-4930k-help/1210#post_23799072
> 
> Start by setting vcore offset to +.005 and increase in increments of 5mv until you are able to fully load Windows. Once you're stable at idle in Windows, incrementally increase "Additional Turbo Voltage" until you're stable under load. Once you're Cinebench stable at 100% load, if/when you crash at idle, increase vcore offset +.005v until it's stable at both load AND idle.
> 
> The idea is to get +offset as low as possible while simultaneously increasing Additional Turbo Voltage to compensate. That way, you're feeding it as little voltage as possible when it's not doing anything, but allowing it as much as it needs under pressure. If it crashes when you benchmark, add +offset. If it crashes when it's idle (or when you're just doing everyday browsing etc), add Additional Turbo Voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if you happen to be running Windows 10, report back and let me know if it's applying Additional Turbo Voltage or not? I reported my recent issue to Microsoft last night.... didn't get a real answer, but a site manager directed me to report it through the official app, so maybe somebody there will take notice.


Thanks, I'm going to play around with that today. Shouldn't I be able to, in theory, just use additional turbo voltage when OC'ing with a 100 bclk and strap since the extra speed is turbo side? I would imagine that the increased vcore would be needed when playing with a 125 bclk/strap though since that boosts non-turbo speeds too. Or am I off base with that understanding?

I've already been to 4.6 and know the vcore needed, I'm just curious if I can work backwards from that.

I'm not running 10 or I'd be happy to look into that for you. Hopefully MS gets back to you with some good news in short order.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1426258/overclocking-i7-4930k-help/1210#post_23799072
> 
> Start by setting vcore offset to +.005 and increase in increments of 5mv until you are able to fully load Windows. Once you're stable at idle in Windows, incrementally increase "Additional Turbo Voltage" until you're stable under load. Once you're Cinebench stable at 100% load, if/when you crash at idle, increase vcore offset +.005v until it's stable at both load AND idle.
> 
> The idea is to get +offset as low as possible while simultaneously increasing Additional Turbo Voltage to compensate. That way, you're feeding it as little voltage as possible when it's not doing anything, but allowing it as much as it needs under pressure. If it crashes when you benchmark, add +offset. If it crashes when it's idle (or when you're just doing everyday browsing etc), add Additional Turbo Voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if you happen to be running Windows 10, report back and let me know if it's applying Additional Turbo Voltage or not? I reported my recent issue to Microsoft last night.... didn't get a real answer, but a site manager directed me to report it through the official app, so maybe somebody there will take notice.


This stuff is nice to know. This relates to the question I had asked earlier.
When I reach the point where it will not boot into windows (currently 8.1 here) I start with increasing vCore offset by +.005 and work my way up from there till Windows is stable at idle, then incrementally increase "Additional Turbo Voltage" until stable under load using Cinebench.

I hope that if it is an issue with Windows 10 it will get resolved before I get my upgrade.

Which brings me to my next question; How do I check to see if it is reporting/adjusting the voltages correctly in the OS?

Bruce


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Thanks, I'm going to play around with that today. Shouldn't I be able to, in theory, just use additional turbo voltage when OC'ing with a 100 bclk and strap since the extra speed is turbo side? I would imagine that the increased vcore would be needed when playing with a 125 bclk/strap though since that boosts non-turbo speeds too. Or am I off base with that understanding?
> 
> I've already been to 4.6 and know the vcore needed, I'm just curious if I can work backwards from that.
> 
> I'm not running 10 or I'd be happy to look into that for you. Hopefully MS gets back to you with some good news in short order.


No, because the base VID that the chip asks for is pre-programmed by Intel and may not be enough for 100% stability. They don't really have the time or inclination to test & rate each chip to get the actual stable voltage, I think they assign a base "stock" VID to every bin and then it adds a multiplier effect on top of that based on your settings. It's kind of like saying "the average adult should consume 2000 calories a day to stay healthy." Well, yes, and no.









If you know your stable vcore at 46x, you can try just decreasing offset and increasing ATV in tandem.... although in my experience, the amount is not always absolutely exact. But the rule still applies -- if it crashes at load, more ATV; if it crashes at idle, more offset.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Electroluminescent water lines
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As much as I LOVE the idea of EL Wire/Panels, they burn out far too quickly to be of long term use.

My thoughts aside, well done! Now you just need to find some fine EL Wire and braid a sleeve out of it...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am OCing in the BIOS. I stated earlier that I couldn't get a stable OC in any of the other methods.
> The highest OC you can get in the OC panel is 4.2 and it isn't stable.
> Though is it possible to set it so I access to my OC saved profiles through the OC panel. Because I'd like to leave it in normal mode when not doing anything and OC when working in a 3d graphics program or doing some "heavy" gaming (though my graphics card is still sub par for "heavy").
> 
> I have AIDA64, Prime95, and another one or two. Once I find my limit before obvious instability I will probably do stress tests in all three. Then for actual working the 3d program I mess with (DAZ3D) puts my CPU under 100% load when rendering. I still need to get more RAM (it's barely over $100 for 2 8gb sticks right now) but the video card is my next purchase (GTX 980 FTW)....
> 
> BTW I am still on the 4.3 ghz OC and my temps are steady in the low 30's. I will be getting the XSPC Rampage 4 Black Waterblock Set so that will hopefully help with the high OC's I am going to attempt eventually.


DO NOT buy the XSPC R4BE kit!!! I bought it for my board and it would not boot with it installed. It was putting uneven stress on the chokes and causing a 00 error on boot. Occasionally if I put something beneath it to wedge it in place I could get it to boot, but any time I would restart I would get the same 00 error.

That being said, if you are still set on that block, I will give you mine. I have no plans to use it, and I could not in good conscience sell it to someone. Just pay the cost of shipping and it's yours. You'll need the thermal pads though (just check what size and thickness they are, and search for the thickness on ebay, i.e. "1mm thermal pad").

Just beware, I spent $80 on this block, only to have to spend another $100 on the EK monoblock (Which works great), so I strongly suggest just skipping this and getting the EK block straight away. Perhaps post in the marketplace to see if someone has one for sale...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> The power on switch and Re Set Switch (Lamptrons, Case CaseLabs Magnum 8) on the front of the case is not working. Tried the re set switch on the power pins. Tried 2 different R4BE mother boards (both are new boards). The system will power on if you jump the 2 power pins on the system Panel Connector with a screw driver.
> 
> Manual Page 1-49: ATX power button/soft-off button (2 Pin PWRSW. The connector is for the system power button. Pressing the power button turns the system on or puts the system in sleep or soft mode depending on BIOS Settings. Pressing the power switch for more than four seconds while system is On turns the system Off.
> 
> What settings in BIOS is the manual referring to, "C-States"? Tried various settings in the BIOS to see if the switches are disabled? Is there a way to test the switches with a multi meter to see if they are working?





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Are you certain you have it wired correctly...? There are two pins for the resetsw and two for the illuminated 'halo/Angel eye', you may have it inadvertently wired to the LED instead...



NVM, I see you have it sorted...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> DO NOT buy the XSPC R4BE kit!!! I bought it for my board and it would not boot with it installed. It was putting uneven stress on the chokes and causing a 00 error on boot. Occasionally if I put something beneath it to wedge it in place I could get it to boot, but any time I would restart I would get the same 00 error.
> 
> That being said, if you are still set on that block, I will give you mine. I have no plans to use it, and I could not in good conscience sell it to someone. Just pay the cost of shipping and it's yours. You'll need the thermal pads though (just check what size and thickness they are, and search for the thickness on ebay, i.e. "1mm thermal pad").
> 
> Just beware, I spent $80 on this block, only to have to spend another $100 on the EK monoblock (Which works great), so I strongly suggest just skipping this and getting the EK block straight away. Perhaps post in the marketplace to see if someone has one for sale...


Wow, that's bad...
The reason it was being considered was the price is now $49.99, it was within my budget
Thanks for the heads up!
I did find the EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE - Acetal for $120 on performance PC's. I could not find the EK mono block anywhere except on the EK site and that is apparently overseas.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> No, because the base VID that the chip asks for is pre-programmed by Intel and may not be enough for 100% stability. They don't really have the time or inclination to test & rate each chip to get the actual stable voltage, I think they assign a base "stock" VID to every bin and then it adds a multiplier effect on top of that based on your settings. It's kind of like saying "the average adult should consume 2000 calories a day to stay healthy." Well, yes, and no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you know your stable vcore at 46x, you can try just decreasing offset and increasing ATV in tandem.... although in my experience, the amount is not always absolutely exact. But the rule still applies -- if it crashes at load, more ATV; if it crashes at idle, more offset.


I see and will keep that in mind as I move forward. Thanks for the info.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> As much as I LOVE the idea of EL Wire/Panels, they burn out far too quickly to be of long term use.
> 
> My thoughts aside, well done! *Now you just need to find some fine EL Wire and braid a sleeve out of it*...


rotfl
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> DO NOT buy the XSPC R4BE kit!!! I bought it for my board and it would not boot with it installed. It was putting uneven stress on the chokes and causing a 00 error on boot. Occasionally if I put something beneath it to wedge it in place I could get it to boot, but any time I would restart I would get the same 00 error.
> 
> That being said, if you are still set on that block, I will give you mine. I have no plans to use it, and I could not in good conscience sell it to someone. Just pay the cost of shipping and it's yours. You'll need the thermal pads though (just check what size and thickness they are, and search for the thickness on ebay, i.e. "1mm thermal pad").
> 
> Just beware, I spent $80 on this block, only to have to spend another $100 on the EK monoblock (Which works great), so I strongly suggest just skipping this and getting the EK block straight away. Perhaps post in the marketplace to see if someone has one for sale...


I think you may have gotten a bad set, I have that set on mine and had no issues with it. Luck of the draw I guess lol


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Wow, that's bad...
> The reason it was being considered was the price is now $49.99, it was withing my budget
> Thanks for the heads up!
> I did find the EK-FB KIT ASUS R4BE - Acetal for $120 on performance PC's. I could not find the EK mono block anywhere except on the EK site and that is apparently overseas.


I have to be honest, I am not sure if the EK blocks will do the same thing, additionally, it could simply be a flaw with my board, but if it exposes a flaw in my board, it could just as well cause a flaw in another board.

Since both the XSPC and EK MOSFET/VRM blocks mount the same way it is something to consider...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I see and will keep that in mind as I move forward. Thanks for the info.
> rotfl
> I think you may have gotten a bad set, I have that set on mine and had no issues with it. Luck of the draw I guess lol


I am leaning more towards a slight flaw with the board, but even so, I think the mounting system is not suited for a single block like that, since it mounts from the VRM side, it twists the block, and puts uneven stress on the MOSFET's, which could cause long-term damage to the board, and given that is the power delivery area, your CPU could take the fall as well.

Just my perception of it anyway, those two holes are really meant only for mounting the stock HSF, with its stability provided by the other mounting holes near the I/O, it doesn't cause that twisting effect.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

I agree with what reev3r posted about the mounting method. That's the nice thing about the mono block, it uses the rest of the board to stabilize the VRM section of the block relative to the board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am leaning more towards a slight flaw with the board, but even so, I think the mounting system is not suited for a single block like that, since it mounts from the VRM side, it twists the block, and puts uneven stress on the MOSFET's, which could cause long-term damage to the board, and given that is the power delivery area, your CPU could take the fall as well.
> 
> Just my perception of it anyway, those two holes are really meant only for mounting the stock HSF, with its stability provided by the other mounting holes near the I/O, it doesn't cause that twisting effect.


That's true, I may have just gotten lucky. Had I had the same issue though I think I'd have looked into fabricating some kind of shim to brace it and keep the vrm section from warping. I don't really care for the mono block look and already have a great cpu block lol.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Based on the discussion, what is a good (hopefully inexpensive) mono/MOBO block to get for the RIVBE?

EDIT: I may still get the original one I posted as it is cheap and my funds are extremely limited. I will be as careful as I always am with my rig and hopefully it will turn out for the better. Though to be honest a single block to cover everything would be perfect, that way I would only have 4 fittings verse 8 to worry about......


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Are you certain you have it wired correctly...? There are two pins for the resetsw and two for the illuminated 'halo/Angel eye', you may have it inadvertently wired to the LED instead...
> 
> 
> 
> NVM, I see you have it sorted...


Pretty certain the switches are wired correctly by CaseLabs. Did try reversing the PLED + and - on the System Panel Connector. The Reset switch if put on the Power pins should start the system.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Based on the discussion, what is a good (hopefully inexpensive) mono/MOBO block to get for the RIVBE?
> 
> EDIT: I may still get the original one I posted as it is cheap and my funds are extremely limited. I will be as careful as I always am with my rig and hopefully it will turn out for the better. Though to be honest a single block to cover everything would be perfect, that way I would only have 4 fittings verse 8 to worry about......


As far as I know EK is the better offering for this mono block. Bitspower makes one too but I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with the lower section of it. If the mono block is what you're looking for opposed to the set then I'd suggest saving the money to buy the mono block instead. It will be more secure and easier to attach than the dual block set and will fit your desired look.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Pretty certain the switches are wired correctly by CaseLabs. Did try reversing the PLED + and - on the System Panel Connector. The Reset switch if put on the Power pins should start the system.


I don't know that CaseLabs actually wires the switches themselves, though the reset switch should work as a power switch too as they're both momentary style switches.


----------



## Goggle Eye

OK thanks,







will place a order for new switches hope fully that will resolve the issue.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

So the ATV setting worked out easily enough. I've read that prime is best for IB-E testing, does anyone here have an opinion on the Intel's XTU program compared to prime?


----------



## reev3r

I find it difficult to believe that you have a bad switch. Have you checked the switch with a multimeter on continuity mode? Be sure to check the switch is connected to the NO and NC contacts.

Perhaps before going through the trouble of replacing it, take a photograph of the connections on the switch so as to verify that it is all correct...

Not saying you are incapable of wiring a switch by any means. I think I can say we've all made one curious mistakes...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I find it difficult to believe that you have a bad switch. Have you checked the switch with a multimeter on continuity mode? Be sure to check the switch is connected to the NO and NC contacts.
> 
> Perhaps before going through the trouble of replacing it, take a photograph of the connections on the switch so as to verify that it is all correct...
> 
> Not saying you are incapable of wiring a switch by any means. I think I can say we've all made one curious mistakes...


It sounds like they came pre-wired with the case. I don't think he wired them.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> It sounds like they came pre-wired with the case. I don't think he wired them.


Fair enough. I know I ended up swapping out my switch, so I took that as a possibility. As well, it is entirely possible that there was a mistake made at the lab. Just being judicious with my application of troubleshooting efforts.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Fair enough. I know I ended up swapping out my switch, so I took that as a possibility. As well, it is entirely possible that there was a mistake made at the lab. Just being judicious with my application of troubleshooting efforts.


As did I with mine, even wired them myself (what a pain that was). I just didn't have anything better to do and quoting you is so much fun!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey guys I have an off topic question: Have any on here used data recovery software? I am looking for a real good one that can recovery files from an old Seagate 160gb PATA drive. It has probably been reformatted a few times. I need to try and recover some old xls (Excel) files for some forms I had written a load of formulas and macros on. I tried some software a while ago and it did identify some of the xls files but that was about it. I figured I would ask you all here first before going somewhere else.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> actually the oc panel ( speaking as one who ACTUALLY used/uses it ) is very useful as it does CHANGE THE BIOS temp. and allows you to test, and i have 4.8 ( vs 4.7 ) stable thanks to it
> 
> mechanical switches do not have a pos and neg they have 2 contacts that meet, that will not fix it, he needs a multi meter and to test the switches to see if the ( a ) wiring is hooked up properly and ( b ) if a is ok then the switch is functional.
> 
> The LED on the switch must be connected correctly, Not sure just asking? + to + and _- to -?
> 
> if he needs help wiring i can help him in a pm
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for the offer on wiring the switches. They are original switches in a M8 Case. Ran a test with a multi meter on the reset and power switch. Both switches are dead. Just a wild guess both swtiches where working a capacitor came off the original R4BE must have over volted both switches? Since replaced the R4BE with a new one and Asus replaced the original with a new one. The switches will not work on either R4BE. Wanted to confirm before placing the order for switches at CaseLabs.
Click to expand...

why not just buy 22mm and 19mm ( going off the top of my head for the sizes ) from anywhere that way you can get the color you want too !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> actually the oc panel ( speaking as one who ACTUALLY used/uses it ) is very useful as it does CHANGE THE BIOS temp. and allows you to test, and i have 4.8 ( vs 4.7 ) stable thanks to it
> 
> and 2 hours of adia is laughable imo. to call that stable is a slap in the face, now the great thing about stability is it is SUBJECTIVE
> 
> 
> 
> Never tried the OC Panel (and I do not need too either).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About AIDA64 for stability, I am sure you know who I bought my chip from and he said that two hours of AIDA64 should be good for that chip, I still listen to him. Every setting I have got from him is rock solid on my 4930K, even "just" running AIDA64 for two hours. I also said "if that is not enough for you do some (2-3 hours) of gaming", in my experience unstable overclocks BSODs FAST in like Crysis 3 and a few other titles, I am sure you have tried it as well. Talking about subjective, your thought on what I consider stable does not matter.
Click to expand...

just dont call it stable,

i dont know who you bought it from nor do i care, i could sell 5ghz chips all day with adia as the test, i probably could make it fail easily doing what i do daily

i will let this guys quote talk about it, as he does a great job

saying if you can run games it is stable, just is bad advice, but again do what you want, just dont complain when your hard drive is so corrupted it fails to boot


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...





i am not saying you are stating stress testing is a bad idea. but i am saying there is a reason adia until recently, when people are chasing that "magical" 5ghz was not recommended,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hey guys I have an off topic question: Have any on here used data recovery software? I am looking for a real good one that can recovery files from an old Seagate 160gb PATA drive. It has probably been reformatted a few times. I need to try and recover some old xls (Excel) files for some forms I had written a load of formulas and macros on. I tried some software a while ago and it did identify some of the xls files but that was about it. I figured I would ask you all here first before going somewhere else.


that isnt how recovery software works if it has been rewritten your data is gone


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that isnt how recovery software works if it has been rewritten your data is gone


Not true. I have recovered data in the past that was reformatted and written over a few times, on both a USB stick and a hard drive. Though most of that data was photos and it was many years ago that I did it. It didn't always turn out real good. I would figure that the software has come along and it has. I recovered some vacation photos from a USB stick that had also been written over and reformatted a few times and the pics it recovered turned out great. I forget what software it was and I think it was only good for USB sticks because it was the trial version.
If you didn't know, data lives forever on hard drives no matter what you do with it. This is the reason government computers they give away usually do not come with hard drives. If they do they have been replaced or were not used with vital info on them. The government destroys those drives.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not true. I have recovered data in the past that was reformatted and written over a few times, on both a USB stick and a hard drive. Though most of that data was photos and it was many years ago that I did it. It didn't always turn out real good. I would figure that the software has come along and it has. I recovered some vacation photos from a USB stick that had also been written over and reformatted a few times and the pics it recovered turned out great. I forget what software it was and I think it was only good for USB sticks because it was the trial version.
> If you didn't know, data lives forever on hard drives no matter what you do with it. This is the reason government computers they give away usually do not come with hard drives. If they do they have been replaced or were not used with vital info on them. The government destroys those drives.


Actually, data does not live on hard drives forever. This is why you *typically* can not easily recover data from a drive that has been *properly* formatted (i.e. Zeroes written to the drive, vs a quick format of the MBA and not the actual platters).

If you do a quick format, the drive can be recovered an unlimited number of times, because the data has not been overwritten, however, if you change the state of the data bits (zeroes and ones, or magnetic polarity of the platter) you remove the potential to easily recover the data, because it has been replaced.

So I suspect that your recoveries are merely MBR formats, and then the data you stored to the drive later simply did not overwrite your previous data. With the USB drives however, they operate on a different principle, and although data can be recovered from a HDD that has been written to, this is not possible on flash based storage, because once you change the electrical state of a bit, it is gone forever.

I recommend Easus recovery as a quick tool to see if the data CAN be recovered or not... If the drive has subsequently been written to, don't expect too much, unless you are willing to shell out some cash...


----------



## deanorthk

I'm soon to take a R4BE too, hopefully my current watercooling setup and PSU will be able to sustain that all.
I don't plan to overclock madly, as it'll be my daily use computer (I do game a lot though).
It's going to be the R4BE, I7 4960x, 16gb DDR3, 2 780 GTX SLI.
My PSU is a seasonic platinium 860w (costly one, but stable as hell)
all this on a obsidian 900D case, watercooling with 2 mcp35x pump, 1 480 rad, 1 360 and 1 280 rad. hope this will be enough to keep everything cool enough.

I plan to put the 4960x at 4.2ghz, the 780 GTX are bad oc (can't pass 1089mhz on the core), but all my games are rather ok for now (144p monitor).

I have to admit though, I'm simply thrilled to lay my hand on the R4BE, this board is for me a marvel, ok the chipset is not the newest one, but I know what I use on my computer, and 2 sata 6 is far than enough for me, and the USB3.. well I have a NAS, and so, one or two USB3 on my computer is enough.

Perfect handling of oc and ram tweaking, stability and durabilty though, that is my concern, and this board..well it offers such thing!

I'll try to grab a EKWB R4BE monoblock, as keeping both the chipset and the power regulation part cool seems to be a good idea (cough cough )


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that isnt how recovery software works if it has been rewritten your data is gone
> 
> 
> 
> Not true. I have recovered data in the past that was reformatted and written over a few times, on both a USB stick and a hard drive. Though most of that data was photos and it was many years ago that I did it. It didn't always turn out real good. I would figure that the software has come along and it has. I recovered some vacation photos from a USB stick that had also been written over and reformatted a few times and the pics it recovered turned out great. I forget what software it was and I think it was only good for USB sticks because it was the trial version.
> If you didn't know, data lives forever on hard drives no matter what you do with it. This is the reason government computers they give away usually do not come with hard drives. If they do they have been replaced or were not used with vital info on them. The government destroys those drives.
Click to expand...

btw i need screen shots of your bios, to see what settings you have changed, not to see if our bios is the same


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> btw i need screen shots of your bios, to see what settings you have changed, not to see if our bios is the same


I haven't changed anything yet except for the core ratios (currently still 43) and it is in XMP mode. My other front fan should be here some time today so when that comes in and I have to shut it down I can get some screen shots if you still really need them.

EDIT: The new fan will be in tomorrow not today. But I am going to connect the old pata drives to my system today to see if I can possibly recover some data. I was connecting them via a kit with adapters through USB but the PSU got real hot last night so I am just going to connect it to the system PSU and use the SATA ports. A little more inconvenient but it'll work.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Actually, data does not live on hard drives forever. This is why you *typically* can not easily recover data from a drive that has been *properly* formatted (i.e. Zeroes written to the drive, vs a quick format of the MBA and not the actual platters).
> 
> If you do a quick format, the drive can be recovered an unlimited number of times, because the data has not been overwritten, however, if you change the state of the data bits (zeroes and ones, or magnetic polarity of the platter) you remove the potential to easily recover the data, because it has been replaced.
> 
> So I suspect that your recoveries are merely MBR formats, and then the data you stored to the drive later simply did not overwrite your previous data. With the USB drives however, they operate on a different principle, and although data can be recovered from a HDD that has been written to, this is not possible on flash based storage, because once you change the electrical state of a bit, it is gone forever.
> 
> I recommend Easus recovery as a quick tool to see if the data CAN be recovered or not... If the drive has subsequently been written to, don't expect too much, unless you are willing to shell out some cash...


I've been able to recover data from reformatted drives before and I know there are ways to recover even deeper lost data but like you said it is expensive. The problem I am facing is that I am trying to recover xls files and 10 years ago that was mostly impossible to recover. But I am hoping for better recovery software today.
The thing about USB drives is not true. I recently recovered some pics from a 256mb flash drive that I personally reformatted at least twice that I can remember. I wasn't expecting some of the pics that did show up but then again I also don't remember being that goofy...lol.
Now polarizing or de-polarizing HDD's can destroy data effectively and I'm not sure if that data is recoverable.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I find it difficult to believe that you have a bad switch. Have you checked the switch with a multimeter on continuity mode? Be sure to check the switch is connected to the NO and NC contacts.
> 
> What is the NO and NC contacts on the switches or mother board?
> 
> Keep thinking it is strange that both switches will not function. Yes I checked the switches with a Multi Meter.
> 
> Perhaps before going through the trouble of replacing it, take a photograph of the connections on the switch so as to verify that it is all correct...
> 
> See if can a decent pictures of the switches may have to remove them from the case.
> 
> Not saying you are incapable of wiring a switch by any means. I think I can say we've all made one curious mistakes...


I will try connecting the PLED to the power pins on the mother board and see if that will work?

Agree my electrical knowledge is limited did learn a long time ago at a very young age not pee on a electric fence.









I did not wire the switches they came pre wired and sleeved.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why not just buy 22mm and 19mm ( going off the top of my head for the sizes ) from anywhere that way you can get the color you want too !
> 
> Believe you are correct on the sizes for the switches. Have to order and import the switches they do not sell Lamptrons here and looked for other switches cannot find any case switches. CaseLabs or PPC has the color I am looking for sound like Lamptron switches when you press the button. Very firm click sound.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I've been able to recover data from reformatted drives before and I know there are ways to recover even deeper lost data but like you said it is expensive. The problem I am facing is that I am trying to recover xls files and 10 years ago that was mostly impossible to recover. But I am hoping for better recovery software today.
> The thing about USB drives is not true. I recently recovered some pics from a 256mb flash drive that I personally reformatted at least twice that I can remember. I wasn't expecting some of the pics that did show up but then again I also don't remember being that goofy...lol.
> Now polarizing or de-polarizing HDD's can destroy data effectively and I'm not sure if that data is recoverable.


Firstly, I have no doubt that it is possible to recover data from a flash drive,I have done it myself. However, recovering data from a rewritten flash drive (true format and not a quick format) is simply not possible,try as we might. What I am referring to in the reformat is a true format, which completely erases the data on the platters (by changing the polarization of the bits), and not a 'quick' format, which just resets the MBR (Master Boot Record, basically the 'library' that tells the drive where data is located, and not the actual data itself as in a true format). So if you do a full format on the USB drive, it will reset the state of the bits. It is the same with SSD's, the way that flash media stores data is such that once the bit is changed it is completely unrecoverable, while magnetic media will retain a slight magnetic polarity 'memory' that is possible to be recovered once overwritten.

So while yes, it is possible to recover data from a 'quick' format on any media, recovering data from a 'full' format is not possible on flash based storage, but is still possible on magnetic media, simply because you can determine whether a 0 has been overwritten by a 0 or a 1 based on the magnetic strength of the bit. So, as a basic example, if you overwrite a 0 with a 0, the bit will have a stronger 0 strength (or rather, the 'south' pole will be more easily identified), while overwriting a 0 with a 1 makes the 1 bit less strong than it would be were it overwritten by another 1 bit. Imagine mixing equal parts red dyed water with clear water, vs mixing red dyed water with red dyed water, the red/clear mix will be pink, or only half as red, while mixing red/red will yield the same red color.

Since flash drives do not store media magnetically there is no intrinsic bit strength variance. Because it is using a logic gate, instead of magnetic storage, once the gate is switched, there is no remnant of the previous data, which as stated, is not the case with magnetic media, meaning it is not possible to recover data from NAND or NOR based storage media once a gate has been tripped.

Hopefully I am making sense on both the difference between magnetic storage recovery and flash based storage recovery, as well as the difference between a full format and an MBR or 'quick' format. If not I would implore you to do some Google searching on why each can or can not be recovered from.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Firstly, I have no doubt that it is possible to recover data from a flash drive,I have done it myself. However, recovering data from a rewritten flash drive (true format and not a quick format) is simply not possible,try as we might. What I am referring to in the reformat is a true format, which completely erases the data on the platters (by changing the polarization of the bits), and not a 'quick' format, which just resets the MBR (Master Boot Record, basically the 'library' that tells the drive where data is located, and not the actual data itself as in a true format). So if you do a full format on the USB drive, it will reset the state of the bits. It is the same with SSD's, the way that flash media stores data is such that once the bit is changed it is completely unrecoverable, while magnetic media will retain a slight magnetic polarity 'memory' that is possible to be recovered once overwritten.
> 
> So while yes, it is possible to recover data from a 'quick' format on any media, recovering data from a 'full' format is not possible on flash based storage, but is still possible on magnetic media, simply because you can determine whether a 0 has been overwritten by a 0 or a 1 based on the magnetic strength of the bit. So, as a basic example, if you overwrite a 0 with a 0, the bit will have a stronger 0 strength (or rather, the 'south' pole will be more easily identified), while overwriting a 0 with a 1 makes the 1 bit less strong than it would be were it overwritten by another 1 bit. Imagine mixing equal parts red dyed water with clear water, vs mixing red dyed water with red dyed water, the red/clear mix will be pink, or only half as red, while mixing red/red will yield the same red color.
> 
> Since flash drives do not store media magnetically there is no intrinsic bit strength variance. Because it is using a logic gate, instead of magnetic storage, once the gate is switched, there is no remnant of the previous data, which as stated, is not the case with magnetic media, meaning it is not possible to recover data from NAND or NOR based storage media once a gate has been tripped.
> 
> Hopefully I am making sense on both the difference between magnetic storage recovery and flash based storage recovery, as well as the difference between a full format and an MBR or 'quick' format. If not I would implore you to do some Google searching on why each can or can not be recovered from.


Got it!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Got it!


Excellent!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hey guys I have an off topic question: Have any on here used data recovery software? I am looking for a real good one that can recovery files from an old Seagate 160gb PATA drive. It has probably been reformatted a few times. I need to try and recover some old xls (Excel) files for some forms I had written a load of formulas and macros on. I tried some software a while ago and it did identify some of the xls files but that was about it. I figured I would ask you all here first before going somewhere else.


Recuva is a good on I've used on client's computers very often. Most commercial offerings you'll find are likely close to the same thing. For deep recovery you're looking at spending a lot of cash because of the specialized equipment they use on the platters themselves. You could always search google for the one with the most features and best ratings. Though the most effective offering is likely to cost the highest premium.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why not just buy 22mm and 19mm ( going off the top of my head for the sizes ) from anywhere that way you can get the color you want too !
> just dont call it stable,
> 
> i don't know who you bought it from nor do i care, i could sell 5ghz chips all day with adia as the test, i probably could make it fail easily doing what i do daily
> 
> i will let this guys quote talk about it, as he does a great job
> 
> saying if you can run games it is stable, just is bad advice, but again do what you want, just don't complain when your hard drive is so corrupted it fails to boot
> 
> i am not saying you are stating stress testing is a bad idea. but i am saying there is a reason adia until recently, when people are chasing that "magical" 5ghz was not recommended,
> that isn't how recovery software works if it has been rewritten your data is gone


What's described in that quote isn't stability, it's computational accuracy which is different. Computational accuracy can't be tested by stressing unless you're also using software that checks for wrong information returns. Even then, just because it passed a 24 hour run doesn't mean that it would be stable for 25 or 78 hours straight. They also don't overclock chips in professional grade servers or work stations due to that inaccuracy. They use production level hardware like ECC ram, Xeon chips, workstation boards, etc to minimize the risk of data corruption. I've also read that truly serious folding groups don't let people run OC'ed hardware at all just for that reason.

Folding, or anything else, is not likely to find a cure for cancer.

The thing abut stability is that it is stable until it isn't. Stability can be affected by more than just the hardware so unless you have a way to keep all the data from being corrupted due to power loss, hardware faults, driver faults, malicious software infections, acts of god, you can't say with absolute certainty that just because something didn't crash for 24 hours it won't ever crash.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not true. I have recovered data in the past that was reformatted and written over a few times, on both a USB stick and a hard drive. Though most of that data was photos and it was many years ago that I did it. It didn't always turn out real good. I would figure that the software has come along and it has. I recovered some vacation photos from a USB stick that had also been written over and reformatted a few times and the pics it recovered turned out great. I forget what software it was and I think it was only good for USB sticks because it was the trial version.
> If you didn't know, data lives forever on hard drives no matter what you do with it. This is the reason government computers they give away usually do not come with hard drives. If they do they have been replaced or were not used with vital info on them. The government destroys those drives.


The gov has other methods of erasing drives that consumer level folks like you and I don't typically have access to. Though you're right that the only way to really be sure the data is gone would be to melt the platters.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Recuva is a good on I've used on client's computers very often. Most commercial offerings you'll find are likely close to the same thing. For deep recovery you're looking at spending a lot of cash because of the specialized equipment they use on the platters themselves. You could always search google for the one with the most features and best ratings. Though the most effective offering is likely to cost the highest premium.


Ahh, Recuva that may have been the one I used years ago, either that or it was the one I used like a year or two ago to recover some data from a USB stick.
The bad thing about recovery software and google is that about 6 months ago I did a search for recovery software and I just did one yesterday and I came up with completely different results..

Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Slightly off topic

super excited, the "new" megaman if you will is avail for preorder, ( ill let you do some googling as to why if it interests you ) - i am super excited !~

see Mighty No. 9

http://www.mightyno9.com/


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> The gov has other methods of erasing drives that consumer level folks like you and I don't typically have access to. Though you're right that the only way to really be sure the data is gone would be to melt the platters.


I wish I could remember exactly, but I believe there are two *commonly* used standards, one requires a minimum of 7 passes to be compliant, the other one I recall is I think 23 passes to be compliant. Surely someone that cared enough could find it all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Ahh, Recuva that may have been the one I used years ago, either that or it was the one I used like a year or two ago to recover some data from a USB stick.
> The bad thing about recovery software and google is that about 6 months ago I did a search for recovery software and I just did one yesterday and I came up with completely different results..
> 
> Thanks!


Yeah, Recuva is specifically labeled for USB drives and SD cards, but it also works on magnetic media. I personally don't like it, as I have never had good results with it, I have used several others that have recovered and entire drive's worth of data (500GB) without trouble. Easus is the one that I remember best, but I am confident that most recovery software will do decent.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Ahh, Recuva that may have been the one I used years ago, either that or it was the one I used like a year or two ago to recover some data from a USB stick.
> The bad thing about recovery software and google is that about 6 months ago I did a search for recovery software and I just did one yesterday and I came up with completely different results..
> 
> Thanks!


Yeah, that's the downside. I've had decent experience with it though if my clients ever needed more professional recovery I'd recommend them to specialists. What I mostly handled was "accidentally deleted files"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I wish I could remember exactly, but I believe there are two *commonly* used standards, one requires a minimum of 7 passes to be compliant, the other one I recall is I think 23 passes to be compliant. Surely someone that cared enough could find it all.
> 
> Yeah, Recuva is specifically labeled for USB drives and SD cards, but it also works on magnetic media. I personally don't like it, as I have never had good results with it, I have used several others that have recovered and entire drive's worth of data (500GB) without trouble. Easus is the one that I remember best, but I am confident that most recovery software will do decent.


The first is an NSA standard if memory serves and consists of 7 passes of all 1s, 0s, and random pattern write overs (though not necessarily in that order). The second is actually a method developed earlier than the NSA standard if it's the one I'm thinking of. As far as I know you can still recover information from the platter with a forensic data recovery tool set. For example the recovery tools and software the US intelligence agency's have could likely recover data from an NSA standard wipe method and possibly even the 23 pass method provided they know which program was used to do the wipe. Mainly because those "random" writes aren't usually truly random.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> The second is actually a method developed earlier than the NSA standard if it's the one I'm thinking of. As far as I know you can still recover information from the platter with a forensic data recovery tool set. For example the recovery tools and software the US intelligence agency's have could likely recover data from an NSA standard wipe method and possibly even the 23 pass method provided they know which program was used to do the wipe. Mainly because those "random" writes aren't usually truly random.


If takes a certain amount of "organization" of the laws of physics for a computer to operate. Even if there's such a thing as "random" in the real world (which is an open question), there certainly isn't in computing. What we call "random" is really just "highly varied", but it's always based on an algorithm of some sort.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@Mega Man: Yeah I saw the Mighty No 9 demo, it looks pretty good. I already have to many unused games in my Steam library to even consider it. Though I do enjoy a good 2d game every once in a while I don't really get into them that much.

IRT the discussion on your use of the OC panel; Do you use the OC panel in extreme mode? I thought about that but the wiring is not long enough and I do not have the space to have the case open and the wires coming out of it like that. I thought about getting some kind of extension cable so I could have the OC panel up on my desk but I never looked into it. So for right now using the OC panel in extreme mode is not an option for me.

Does anyone here use the temp sensor points on the board and if so what panel/device do you use to keep track of the temps?
Is it possible to use those sensor points in conjunction with the AI suite FanXpert2?

BTW: I received and installed the AeroCool fan today! In the process I realized it wasn't the NZXT front fan that was making the rattle noise. It was my other new AeroCool Dead Silent fan. I realized after fiddling with it a little that it only makes noise when in an angled position but not when completely flat or standing straight up. So I put that fan in the back for the exhaust fan then moved the NZXT fan to the angled fan mount for the MB. I also installed the new AeroCool in the front. With that set up I of course double checked my temps and the CPU is actually running about 5 deg cooler (late 20's early 30's) under normal/no load. I am not sure how the fans would affect a watercooled CPU but I am not complaining. It may have something to do with keeping the radiator a little cooler. Any insight on this?

Which brings me to my next question:
For those on here that use watercooling; Do you use a push or a pull configuration for your radiator fans? Or do you use both, i.e. push-pull configuration?
The reason I ask is in this youtube video I watched about 



 by VeryTraumatic he mentions that he uses the push-pull configuration when he can. Then in another video on watercooling the guy uses a push configuration. I am using a pull configuration as recommended by the rad maker SwifTech.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> If takes a certain amount of "organization" of the laws of physics for a computer to operate. Even if there's such a thing as "random" in the real world (which is an open question), there certainly isn't in computing. What we call "random" is really just "highly varied", but it's always based on an algorithm of some sort.


Exactly, that was my point. If the person or group trying to recover the erased data knows the program used to erase it then they will have an easier time rebuilding it because those random writes can be reversed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Does anyone here use the temp sensor points on the board and if so what panel/device do you use to keep track of the temps?
> Is it possible to use those sensor points in conjunction with the AI suite FanXpert2?
> 
> BTW: I received and installed the AeroCool fan today! In the process I realized it wasn't the NZXT front fan that was making the rattle noise. It was my other new AeroCool Dead Silent fan. I realized after fiddling with it a little that it only makes noise when in an angled position but not when completely flat or standing straight up. So I put that fan in the back for the exhaust fan then moved the NZXT fan to the angled fan mount for the MB. I also installed the new AeroCool in the front. With that set up I of course double checked my temps and the CPU is actually running about 5 deg cooler (late 20's early 30's) under normal/no load. I am not sure how the fans would affect a watercooled CPU but I am not complaining. It may have something to do with keeping the radiator a little cooler. Any insight on this?
> 
> Which brings me to my next question:
> For those on here that use watercooling; Do you use a push or a pull configuration for your radiator fans? Or do you use both, i.e. push-pull configuration?
> The reason I ask is in this youtube video I watched about
> 
> 
> 
> by VeryTraumatic he mentions that he uses the push-pull configuration when he can. Then in another video on watercooling the guy uses a push configuration. I am using a pull configuration as recommended by the rad maker SwifTech.


Never used the onboard temp points though I would suspect they would work in AI suite given it had blanked out reading places for those points.

Better intake, exhaust, or balanced air flow will do that. It basically makes the air in your case move in an ordered path which equates to a better flow rate and more even heat dissipation.

I've always ran my fans in a pull config. Push/pull can be hard to set up depending on the fans used and the thread size of the bolts needed for the rads. Push/pull allows the fans being used to split their workload, much like 2 pumps in series. Half of the pressure resistance is overcome by the pushing fan and the other half by the pulling one. If you can't or don't want to do a push/pull I'd run a pull setup. Pulling, provided you have a good seal between your rads and fans, creates a vacuum in front of the fan which is likely easier to overcome. Pushing requires the fan to be designed for use where its stream has to overcome high static pressure behind the fan.

Granted there are exceptions, if you're using a low fin density rad and decent fans you can get away with a push setup. If you're using a high fin density rad you want a pull or push/pull and good fans. Also, keep in mind that CFM is as important as high static pressure.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> IRT the discussion on your use of the OC panel; Do you use the OC panel in extreme mode? I thought about that but the wiring is not long enough and I do not have the space to have the case open and the wires coming out of it like that. I thought about getting some kind of extension cable so I could have the OC panel up on my desk but I never looked into it. So for right now using the OC panel in extreme mode is not an option for me.
> 
> Does anyone here use the temp sensor points on the board and if so what panel/device do you use to keep track of the temps?
> Is it possible to use those sensor points in conjunction with the AI suite FanXpert2?
> 
> BTW: I received and installed the AeroCool fan today! In the process I realized it wasn't the NZXT front fan that was making the rattle noise. It was my other new AeroCool Dead Silent fan. I realized after fiddling with it a little that it only makes noise when in an angled position but not when completely flat or standing straight up. So I put that fan in the back for the exhaust fan then moved the NZXT fan to the angled fan mount for the MB. I also installed the new AeroCool in the front. With that set up I of course double checked my temps and the CPU is actually running about 5 deg cooler (late 20's early 30's) under normal/no load. I am not sure how the fans would affect a watercooled CPU but I am not complaining. It may have something to do with keeping the radiator a little cooler. Any insight on this?
> 
> Which brings me to my next question:
> For those on here that use watercooling; Do you use a push or a pull configuration for your radiator fans? Or do you use both, i.e. push-pull configuration?
> The reason I ask is in this youtube video I watched about
> 
> 
> 
> by VeryTraumatic he mentions that he uses the push-pull configuration when he can. Then in another video on watercooling the guy uses a push configuration. I am using a pull configuration as recommended by the rad maker SwifTech.


Just a couple of thoughts on your questions...

Regarding the OC Panel, the only way I have found to monitor the probes is via AiSuite only.

As for the cable, Bligh! I extended mine, but two things, it wasn't worth it (I made my own temp monitor/graph). It was a PITA to find the right connector, one side uses a 20 pin (10x2) DuPont 2.54mm connector, the other side uses a 2.0mm DuPont connector, the same one as USB 3.0 headers, but despite using such a ubiquitous connector on both ends, finding what I needed was indeed difficult and required some minor modifications to the OC Panel connector, just cutting off the end of the connector, which isn't noticeable, but I didn't like doing it at all, given my predilection for non-permanent mods.

Finally, regarding the push/pull question... I would suggest either push or pull (whichever you prefer), as there is no difference between the two. As for the push and pull config, it isn't worth it. If you do some checking, you'll find that the temp difference is only a couple degrees, and not enough to make a difference. Even on the thicker radiators. Frankly, everything is so well designed that the improvements to be made simply aren't with the fans. You would be better off spending the extra money on some other part to improve your loop, i.e. better pump, dual pumps, more/better rads, better blocks, etc. etc. As an anecdotal test I used an air compressor to see how much improvement I could get from moving more air, the difference was little. Talking 5℃, which is just crappy given the amount of air that I moved across the rads and how crazy loud it was. Not to mention that 5℃ was going from ~55℃ to ~50℃, and at those temps you aren't going to see any improvement with that kind of difference. I really wanted to justify having 20 fans in my rig, meh I'd rather have a $150 res. lol

Personally, I use pull on my intake rads and push on my exhaust rads so that all my fans are blocked by a radiator to help keep things quiet. I do find that it works quite well. Although I have enough room for that in my STH10.


----------



## seross69

Push and pull is always better and they are difference


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Just a couple of thoughts on your questions...
> 
> Regarding the OC Panel, the only way I have found to monitor the probes is via AiSuite only.
> 
> As for the cable, Bligh! I extended mine, but two things, it wasn't worth it (I made my own temp monitor/graph). It was a PITA to find the right connector, one side uses a 20 pin (10x2) DuPont 2.54mm connector, the other side uses a 2.0mm DuPont connector, the same one as USB 3.0 headers, but despite using such a ubiquitous connector on both ends, finding what I needed was indeed difficult and required some minor modifications to the OC Panel connector, just cutting off the end of the connector, which isn't noticeable, but I didn't like doing it at all, given my predilection for non-permanent mods.
> 
> Finally, regarding the push/pull question... I would suggest either push or pull (whichever you prefer), as there is no difference between the two. As for the push and pull config, it isn't worth it. If you do some checking, you'll find that the temp difference is only a couple degrees, and not enough to make a difference. Even on the thicker radiators. Frankly, everything is so well designed that the improvements to be made simply aren't with the fans. You would be better off spending the extra money on some other part to improve your loop, i.e. better pump, dual pumps, more/better rads, better blocks, etc. etc. As an anecdotal test I used an air compressor to see how much improvement I could get from moving more air, the difference was little. Talking 5℃, which is just crappy given the amount of air that I moved across the rads and how crazy loud it was. Not to mention that 5℃ was going from ~55℃ to ~50℃, and at those temps you aren't going to see any improvement with that kind of difference. I really wanted to justify having 20 fans in my rig, meh I'd rather have a $150 res. lol
> 
> Personally, I use pull on my intake rads and push on my exhaust rads so that all my fans are blocked by a radiator to help keep things quiet. I do find that it works quite well. Although I have enough room for that in my STH10.


A few questions:
1. Where did you get your extension cable for the OC panel?
2. Where are your radiators located (actually this question is mute unless you are using the phantom 820 case like me)? If not then I will ask on the 820 forum.
3. Wait, is there a way to connect the temp probes to the OC panel? I don't think mine came with the wires for it.....
If they are in the case or somewhere like still in the box it would be just another "DOH!" moment to add to my list for the day.

Speaking of which just before this post I was going through the book looking for how to monitor/use the sensor probes when I came upon the picture that labels all the connections for the RIVBE. I realized something when I glanced at the SATA connectors, I was using the bottom connectors for my primary drives, the AsMedia connectors. I wasn't even using the Intel SATA 3 connectors. I mean who starts in the middle?... I promptly changed the primary drives to the Intel SATA ports and turned off RAPID and did some read/write tests, and the results are normal for the 840 pro SSD I have!. Afterwards I re-enabled RAPID. So all is good now on that front.


----------



## Mega Man

as to 1 he made it


----------



## SpecTRe-X

@reev3r
I thought push/pull was mainly for noise reduction and not a straight performance increase. Due to the shared work load and less chop in the air flow the overall noise level of the fans should be decreased, no?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> A few questions:
> 3. Wait, is there a way to connect the temp probes to the OC panel? I don't think mine came with the wires for it.....


The ones on the OC Panel are for K-probes. The probe headers we're talking about are on the board itself.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> @reev3r
> I thought push/pull was mainly for noise reduction and not a straight performance increase. Due to the shared work load and less chop in the air flow the overall noise level of the fans should be decreased, no?
> The ones on the OC Panel are for K-probes. The probe headers we're talking about are on the board itself.


So all I need to do is turn on the option in the bios and the AIsuite should monitor those and enable the adjustment of the fans attached to them?
If so then I need to reroute the one optional fan connection so it is actually at the same spot the fan is cooling.... I am currently only using one optional fan though I may add another fan at the bottom, that is until I can add another rad.....


----------



## NE0XY

I'm semi confused, I'm want to plug in my Aquaero 6 to the motherboard, wich connector should I plug it into?
This is how it looks:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






And I'm guessing it should go into one of the USB2 ports, but since it's half the thickness, should it be connected to the upper or lower half?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So all I need to do is turn on the option in the bios and the AIsuite should monitor those and enable the adjustment of the fans attached to them?
> If so then I need to reroute the one optional fan connection so it is actually at the same spot the fan is cooling.... I am currently only using one optional fan though I may add another fan at the bottom, that is until I can add another rad.....


As far as I know, yes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> I'm semi confused, I'm want to plug in my Aquaero 6 to the motherboard, wich connector should I plug it into?
> This is how it looks:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I'm guessing it should go into one of the USB2 ports, but since it's half the thickness, should it be connected to the upper or lower half?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It doesn't matter which half of the USB header you connect it to.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Just a couple of thoughts on your questions...
> 
> Regarding the OC Panel, the only way I have found to monitor the probes is via AiSuite only.
> 
> As for the cable, Bligh! I extended mine.


The cable is just awful. Fortunately, I do have an open drive bay to mount it in, but I really wanted to set it up in external mode so it would have all the bells n whistles - "internal" mode is absolutely useless, it does nothing more than my logitech G15 lcd display does. Why they made that stupid cable only like 3 inches long is beyond me.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> The cable is just awful. Fortunately, I do have an open drive bay to mount it in, but I really wanted to set it up in external mode so it would have all the bells n whistles - "internal" mode is absolutely useless, it does nothing more than my logitech G15 lcd display does. Why they made that stupid cable only like 3 inches long is beyond me.


With the right tools and supplies it would be easy enough to make an extension. Just figure out which end you want to extent then buy the appropriate connectors and get to it.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> As far as I know, yes.
> It doesn't matter which half of the USB header you connect it to.


Thank you, should the black cable part of the connector (if you understand what I mean?) be to the right or to the left?

Either: Red white green black black or black black green white red.

I'm assuming the first option since the lower part of the port doesn't have a pin on the far right one?

Sorry but I'm paranoid regarding electronics =P And I don't want to fry anything =P


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Thank you, should the black cable part of the connector (if you understand what I mean?) be to the right or to the left?
> 
> Either: Red white green black black or black black green white red.
> 
> I'm assuming the first option since the lower part of the port doesn't have a pin on the far right one?
> 
> Sorry but I'm paranoid regarding electronics =P And I don't want to fry anything =P


No, that's a very reasonable question. You're assumption was correct though, the two black wires should be on the right hand side, closest to the Sata ports (red, white, green, black, black).


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> No, that's a very reasonable question. You're assumption was correct though, the two black wires should be on the right hand side, closest to the Sata ports (red, white, green, black, black).


Thank you for the help =)
+rep


----------



## reev3r

Okay, I see a few comments/questions since my last comment, it'll take me a while to get all of the quotes and responses sorted.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> A few questions:
> 1. Where did you get your extension cable for the OC panel?
> 2. Where are your radiators located (actually this question is mute unless you are using the phantom 820 case like me)? If not then I will ask on the 820 forum.
> 3. Wait, is there a way to connect the temp probes to the OC panel? I don't think mine came with the wires for it.....
> If they are in the case or somewhere like still in the box it would be just another "DOH!" moment to add to my list for the day.
> 
> Speaking of which just before this post I was going through the book looking for how to monitor/use the sensor probes when I came upon the picture that labels all the connections for the RIVBE. I realized something when I glanced at the SATA connectors, I was using the bottom connectors for my primary drives, the AsMedia connectors. I wasn't even using the Intel SATA 3 connectors. I mean who starts in the middle?... I promptly changed the primary drives to the Intel SATA ports and turned off RAPID and did some read/write tests, and the results are normal for the 840 pro SSD I have!. Afterwards I re-enabled RAPID. So all is good now on that front.


As mentioned, I had to make it myself.

I believe I mentioned I am using a CaseLabs STH10.

The probe type used on the actual OC Panel are K-Type probes, I do have quite a few I'm not using if you would like me to send them out. They can also be found for cheap on eBay.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> @reev3r
> I thought push/pull was mainly for noise reduction and not a straight performance increase. Due to the shared work load and less chop in the air flow the overall noise level of the fans should be decreased, no?
> The ones on the OC Panel are for K-probes. The probe headers we're talking about are on the board itself.


You are very much correct. Using a push-pull config will allow you to lower your fan speeds and maintain the same temps. However, the same thing can be achieved by other means, such as using a larger radiator/more rads, better blocks, better pumps, etc. I feel that if your loop is limited so much that adding twice as many fans to bring down noise or temps, then your loop needs a redesign. There is no reason that you should have to buy twice as many fans for that. My initial response was due to the fact that most people seem to think there is going to be some drastic reduction in temps. Thank you for addressing what I neglected to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So all I need to do is turn on the option in the bios and the AIsuite should monitor those and enable the adjustment of the fans attached to them?
> If so then I need to reroute the one optional fan connection so it is actually at the same spot the fan is cooling.... I am currently only using one optional fan though I may add another fan at the bottom, that is until I can add another rad.....


Yes, it's a bit convoluted in my opinion, but yeah you can control fans via those probes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> The cable is just awful. Fortunately, I do have an open drive bay to mount it in, but I really wanted to set it up in external mode so it would have all the bells n whistles - "internal" mode is absolutely useless, it does nothing more than my logitech G15 lcd display does. Why they made that stupid cable only like 3 inches long is beyond me.


I totally agree. I think it was meant more for extreme overclockers, where you would be on an open bench with LN2 and everything sitting on a table.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I totally agree. I think it was meant more for extreme overclockers, where you would be on an open bench with LN2 and everything sitting on a table.


Definitely, but as there are only a very VERY small handful of people in the entire world who have such a setup, why make the cable so restrictive? Give us an extra 6 or 7 inches of cable and they might have opened up a whole category of overclockers who use a typical pc-case setup but also are willing to pay a premium for a "oc panel" expansion interface.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Thank you for the help =)
> +rep


Any time!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> You are very much correct. Using a push-pull config will allow you to lower your fan speeds and maintain the same temps. However, the same thing can be achieved by other means, such as using a larger radiator/more rads, better blocks, better pumps, etc. I feel that if your loop is limited so much that adding twice as many fans to bring down noise or temps, then your loop needs a redesign. There is no reason that you should have to buy twice as many fans for that. My initial response was due to the fact that most people seem to think there is going to be some drastic reduction in temps. Thank you for addressing what I neglected to.


I was actually thinking more about the air stream being less turbulent and creating less noise from that, though you could also lower speeds. I think that push/pull configs could also be the result of a loop retool when people move from a performance based philosophy to a low noise one. You're right though, doubling fans for such a small temp drop is silly. Somehow I think that the pumps are usually the loudest part of most water builds. My sig rig would be much quieter is I insulated my pumps in foam and water cooled them, I just don't feel like spending the time. lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Any time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was actually thinking more about the air stream being less turbulent and creating less noise from that, though you could also lower speeds. I think that push/pull configs could also be the result of a loop retool when people move from a performance based philosophy to a low noise one. You're right though, doubling fans for such a small temp drop is silly. Somehow I think that the pumps are usually the loudest part of most water builds. My sig rig would be much quieter is I insulated my pumps in foam and water cooled them, I just don't feel like spending the time. lol


So is there such a thing as water cooling water pumps?...lol....
My rig is pretty quiet and cool. A few degrees cooler and quieter than it was a few days ago. I am not sure if I mentioned it on this thread or another but....
I had purchased some new fans, a 140mm (for the angled fan mount for the MB) and a 200mm to replace the front stock fan (that was on the top but replaced the original front 200mm fan that died). They are both Aerocool fans. I already had the 140mm in the angled mount and I was hearing a rattle that I thought was coming from the 200mm front fan so I ordered the 200mm Aerocool one. When I got it in I realized it was the other new Aerocool (140mm) fan making the rattle. Upon some experimenting I discovered the 140mm Aerocool one only rattled when it was at an angle but not when it was straight up or laying flat. So I switched that fan with the stock back exhaust fan. Now my case is whisper quiet and just about 5 degrees cooler than what it was before I did that..... I can't tell if the little bit of noise I hear is either the pump or the airflow being pushed through the case.

Either way I am going to push the OC to 4.4 and maybe 4.5 tomorrow....


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So is there such a thing as water cooling water pumps?...lol....
> My rig is pretty quiet and cool. A few degrees cooler and quieter than it was a few days ago. I am not sure if I mentioned it on this thread or another but....
> I had purchased some new fans, a 140mm (for the angled fan mount for the MB) and a 200mm to replace the front stock fan (that was on the top but replaced the original front 200mm fan that died). They are both Aerocool fans. I already had the 140mm in the angled mount and I was hearing a rattle that I thought was coming from the 200mm front fan so I ordered the 200mm Aerocool one. When I got it in I realized it was the other new Aerocool (140mm) fan making the rattle. Upon some experimenting I discovered the 140mm Aerocool one only rattled when it was at an angle but not when it was straight up or laying flat. So I switched that fan with the stock back exhaust fan. Now my case is whisper quiet and just about 5 degrees cooler than what it was before I did that..... I can't tell if the little bit of noise I hear is either the pump or the airflow being pushed through the case.
> 
> Either way I am going to push the OC to 4.4 and maybe 4.5 tomorrow....


DDCs and D5s are the most common purpose built pumps for pc water cooling. There are also variants like Koolance's pmp-500. There are some others but these are the most common from what I've seen. Noise level follows listing order also, with the pmp-500s being noticeably louder than the pmp-400s they replaced (which are a DDC version/re-brand).

Short answer: Yes, there are specific pumps for water cooling.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> DDCs and D5s are the most common purpose built pumps for pc water cooling. There are also variants like Koolance's pmp-500. There are some others but these are the most common from what I've seen. Noise level follows listing order also, with the pmp-500s being noticeably louder than the pmp-400s they replaced (which are a DDC version/re-brand).
> 
> Short answer: Yes, there are specific pumps for water cooling.


I think you misunderstood my jab....
You said "My sig rig would be much quieter if I insulated my pumps in foam and water cooled them"
Then I asked, "So is there such a thing as water cooling water pumps?"
What I "jabbed" at was you saying you have water pumps, but you wanted to water cool them (along with insulate them)....
I didn't know the water pumps got so hot that some needed external water cooling!....lol.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I think you misunderstood my jab....
> You said "My sig rig would be much quieter if I insulated my pumps in foam and water cooled them"
> Then I asked, "So is there such a thing as water cooling water pumps?"
> What I "jabbed" at was you saying you have water pumps, but you wanted to water cool them (along with insulate them)....
> I didn't know the water pumps got so hot that some needed external water cooling!....lol.


*facedesk* I completely misread what you had posted. lol

They don't need to be water cooled now but if I encased them in open cell foam (to cut the noise emissions) without cooling them they would certainly overheat and die prematurely.

Anyway, you're not a real enthusiast until your liquid cooling system is also being liquid cooled!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> *facedesk* I completely misread what you had posted. lol
> 
> They don't need to be water cooled now but if I encased them in open cell foam (to cut the noise emissions) without cooling them they would certainly overheat and die prematurely.
> 
> Anyway, you're not a real enthusiast until your liquid cooling system is also being liquid cooled!


LMAO!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Definitely, but as there are only a very VERY small handful of people in the entire world who have such a setup, why make the cable so restrictive? Give us an extra 6 or 7 inches of cable and they might have opened up a whole category of overclockers who use a typical pc-case setup but also are willing to pay a premium for a "oc panel" expansion interface.


Like this one ......











Don't need an extender cable


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Like this one ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't need an extender cable


Damn, get that guy some compressed air! Those parts are filthy!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Such is an open air setup . Ultra reliable , runs super cool haven't touched it in 6 mths .

Apart from excursions into the bios









My 24/7


----------



## SpecTRe-X

lol It's under water with the chip under a chiller; running super cool is a given.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Definitely, but as there are only a very VERY small handful of people in the entire world who have such a setup, why make the cable so restrictive? Give us an extra 6 or 7 inches of cable and they might have opened up a whole category of overclockers who use a typical pc-case setup but also are willing to pay a premium for a "oc panel" expansion interface.


I agree. Just maybe the market will head in that direction so it will cater somewhat to those people who want simple ways of OCing to higher levels while still having a somewhat more organized gaming/workstation appearance.....


----------



## theSuperman4war

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5021945

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5022578

Finished my rig.



http://imgur.com/f29qD


OC'd to 4623
Max temp 58 degrees Celsius under burn in cpu temp test


----------



## Madmaxneo

That is a pretty decked out rig.... I really like the way the GPU's look.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Off topic.
Anyone know where I can find a good guide on how to connect Remote Desktop to my PC?
I am running windows 8.1 pro and I want to connect my Asus windows tablet to my PC remotely.
I have tried using the IP address and it says it can't find the connection. So I need a good troubleshooting guide to do this.....
If I am unable to get this resolved today I will call my ISP tomorrow or Tuesday as it may have something to do with the router's settings.
Thanks in advance!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Off topic.
> Anyone know where I can find a good guide on how to connect Remote Desktop to my PC?
> I am running windows 8.1 pro and I want to connect my Asus windows tablet to my PC remotely.
> I have tried using the IP address and it says it can't find the connection. So I need a good troubleshooting guide to do this.....
> If I am unable to get this resolved today I will call my ISP tomorrow or Tuesday as it may have something to do with the router's settings.
> Thanks in advance!


Teamviewer is the only good answer... Although, chrome remote desktop isn't terrible.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Thanks reev3r how're you feeling today?
I actually was able to get it to work. For some reason this PC wasn't enabled on my home network. Once I did that it is all up and running great.
I have used Teamviewer before and it is pretty good but sluggish. But so far using the windows remote desktop tops the others by far as it is much faster.
I am just trying to set it up so I can access certain programs on my PC when I am gaming at the local game store and when I go to Gencon this summer. I will need access to a program that my tablet can't handle.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks reev3r how're you feeling today?
> I actually was able to get it to work. For some reason this PC wasn't enabled on my home network. Once I did that it is all up and running great.
> I have used Teamviewer before and it is pretty good but sluggish. But so far using the windows remote desktop tops the others by far as it is much faster.
> I am just trying to set it up so I can access certain programs on my PC when I am gaming at the local game store and when I go to Gencon this summer. I will need access to a program that my tablet can't handle.


glad you got it sorted.

I am back in the hospital with failing kidneys again. Meh, could be worse at least.

You find TV sluggish? That's quite interesting, I've never had any problems with it, even with the settings set to highest quality... What is your bandwidth? Actually, come to think of it, I did have some problems when I lived in an isolated area and bandwidth was crazy lame on wireless internet. Plus the latency was ridiculous... Upwards of 500ms ping times.


----------



## Madmaxneo

It was choppy, like when someone does screen share on Skype. I have the highest connection available for my area and the highest that Comcast/Xfinity offers for homes, which is up to 150mbs.
It's not slow by any means. I was on wireless on my side of the house and my speeds were 15mbps at best. So I ran a cat5 cable under the house...lol.
When I used the windows remote desktop it was like I was sitting at my PC, well I actually am, but using my tablet to control my PC and the router is on the other side of the house.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It was choppy, like when someone does screen share on Skype. I have the highest connection available for my area and the highest that Comcast/Xfinity offers for homes, which is up to 150mbs.
> It's not slow by any means. I was on wireless on my side of the house and my speeds were 15mbps at best. So I ran a cat5 cable under the house...lol.
> When I used the windows remote desktop it was like I was sitting at my PC, well I actually am, but using my tablet to control my PC and the router is on the other side of the house.


Home network traffic will also affect observed performance, especially in terms of latency. Keep that in mind.

Edit: Are any of you guys planning on getting the free win10 "upgrade" and if so what are you're thoughts on this?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It was choppy, like when someone does screen share on Skype. I have the highest connection available for my area and the highest that Comcast/Xfinity offers for homes, which is up to 150mbs.
> It's not slow by any means. I was on wireless on my side of the house and my speeds were 15mbps at best. So I ran a cat5 cable under the house...lol.
> When I used the windows remote desktop it was like I was sitting at my PC, well I actually am, but using my tablet to control my PC and the router is on the other side of the house.


That is really interesting that it would perform badly. I have been using it for the better part of ten years, and the only time I've ever had issues was over my wireless Internet connection, and even that was not regular and only during peak times. It typically worked just fine, or at least well enough to get everything completed promptly and without significant lag/latency, especially during non-perishable times for that provider. Peak times (and when people were downloading torrents) would cause ping times to increase by orders of magnitude, which is not even remotely an exaggeration.

I have to say this, as much as I am all for faster everything, including Interwebz access, I don't see any difference with browsing past about 20-30Mb/s, my internet speed was recently doubled, from 30 to 60Mb/s (I actually called them to see if there was some error) and I didn't even notice until I bought a new router and ran a speed test on it... So I plugged in my previous router to see if it was just performing poorly, but running the speedtest came up with the new (doubled) speed as well. So for like a month I was running with twice the speed and it was not noticeable. I mean, even during downloads, I don't think many people would see a file take 10 seconds to download at one point, and 5seconds to download the next time and think, "Holy bawlzis! My interwebs are going twice as fast!"

At least as far as I can tell anyway... I only notice on larger downloads, like games and such, and even then I didn't notice because I see the ETA and do something else for the expect time.


----------



## Madmaxneo

There isn't a lot of network traffic here so I don't think that was it. I think that is simply slower than the paid apps (as it was mentioned in some reviews). Splashtop was recommended for it's speed and fluidity but you would have to pay for the service outside your home.

I did see a difference between Teamviewer and the windows remote app. The big difference is making the connection is so much more smooth and quick.
The windows version was touted as the best but you would have to own 8.1 pro to use it (which I luckily do).
Though to be honest (and that I simply remembered) I was on my old core 2 quad system back when I tried Teamviewer.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> There isn't a lot of network traffic here so I don't think that was it. I think that is simply slower than the paid apps (as it was mentioned in some reviews). Splashtop was recommended for it's speed and fluidity but you would have to pay for the service outside your home.
> 
> I did see a difference between Teamviewer and the windows remote app. The big difference is making the connection is so much more smooth and quick.
> The windows version was touted as the best but you would have to own 8.1 pro to use it (which I luckily do).
> Though to be honest (and that I simply remembered) I was on my old core 2 quad system back when I tried Teamviewer.


Well, as I mentioned, if you use Chrome browser you can use the remote desktop feature that works from Android and Windows devices running Chrome...


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> That is really interesting that it would perform badly. I have been using it for the better part of ten years, and the only time I've ever had issues was over my wireless Internet connection, and even that was not regular and only during peak times. It typically worked just fine, or at least well enough to get everything completed promptly and without significant lag/latency, especially during non-perishable times for that provider. Peak times (and when people were downloading torrents) would cause ping times to increase by orders of magnitude, which is not even remotely an exaggeration.
> 
> I have to say this, as much as I am all for faster everything, including Interwebz access, I don't see any difference with browsing past about 20-30Mb/s, my internet speed was recently doubled, from 30 to 60Mb/s (I actually called them to see if there was some error) and I didn't even notice until I bought a new router and ran a speed test on it... So I plugged in my previous router to see if it was just performing poorly, but running the speedtest came up with the new (doubled) speed as well. So for like a month I was running with twice the speed and it was not noticeable. I mean, even during downloads, I don't think many people would see a file take 10 seconds to download at one point, and 5seconds to download the next time and think, "Holy bawlzis! My interwebs are going twice as fast!"
> 
> At least as far as I can tell anyway... I only notice on larger downloads, like games and such, and even then I didn't notice because I see the ETA and do something else for the expect time.


Yeah, past a certain point the servers you're connecting with start holding you back. And going from 10 seconds for a download to 5 isn't amazing lol but those 60Mb/s speeds sure do show when downloading a torrent or content from servers with high speed limits.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Home network traffic will also affect observed performance, especially in terms of latency. Keep that in mind.
> 
> Edit: Are any of you guys planning on getting the free win10 "upgrade" and if so what are you're thoughts on this?


I have already reserved the copy for my PC, still waiting on the invitation for my tablet.

@reev3r I agree on not really noticing the difference between the different speed levels. Most of the times the true limiting factor is the different relay points the signal has to go through. Not everywhere in the US has highspeed lines or highspeed access. From what I have read that is most limiting factor in downloads. I have noticed a difference in ping times and upload speeds as both of those also improved with the higher end service. The max upload speed is about 25 mbps which is up from the original 12 mbps before I upgraded (which is why I upgraded). There are a few programs I run that others rely on like Realm Works, and Maptools/Mote and how well the others connect is dependent on my upload speeds and ping.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have already reserved the copy for my PC, still waiting on the invitation for my tablet.


Whether you're taking it or not was really more a prerequisite for the actual question of your thoughts on the linked spec sheet.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Whether you're taking it or not was really more a prerequisite for the actual question of your thoughts on the linked spec sheet.


That is a broken link


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That is a broken link


Odd, it works for me. Try this: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/windows-10-specifications


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Odd, it works for me. Try this: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/windows-10-specifications


I get the same error.
I have been having problems with accessing MS websites through Chrome. I am not sure why but it seems no matter what I do I am unable to access any MS site.


----------



## deanorthk

seems like with the new kingston hyperX predator SSD, we can boot and install windows on it without issue, I guess on the R4VE, means install the ssD on a pci 16x slot to get the bandwith, and banzai!
not as fast as intel 750, but still pretty good (especially the 480gb version).


----------



## layne81

Hello all,

I am new to the forum and I am also new to overclocking in general. This is my first build and I am looking for points and help with a system with my specs.

I have tried various things but it has resulted in instability... so... I am resulting to this forum for education.

I would like to reach stability at 4.5ghz or higher for the CPU.

Any help is much appreciated.

Here is my PC specs:

Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black Case
Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard
i7-4930K Ivy Bridge 6-Core LGA 2011 3.4GHZ
Corsair H100i Extreme Performance Water/Liquid CPU Cooler
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB Ram (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
2x EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified 3GB Cards (Running SLI)
Corsair AX1200i PSU
6x Corsair AF120 Performance Edition Fans

I am also new to running SLI which I apparently suck at as well.

Educate me or point me in the right direction to educate myself.

Thanks for your time,
Layne


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I am new to the forum and I am also new to overclocking in general. This is my first build and I am looking for points and help with a system with my specs.
> 
> I have tried various things but it has resulted in instability... so... I am resulting to this forum for education.
> 
> I would like to reach stability at 4.5ghz or higher for the CPU.
> 
> Any help is much appreciated.
> 
> Here is my PC specs:
> 
> Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black Case
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard
> i7-4930K Ivy Bridge 6-Core LGA 2011 3.4GHZ
> Corsair H100i Extreme Performance Water/Liquid CPU Cooler
> Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB Ram (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
> 2x EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified 3GB Cards (Running SLI)
> Corsair AX1200i PSU
> 6x Corsair AF120 Performance Edition Fans
> 
> I am also new to running SLI which I apparently suck at as well.
> 
> Educate me or point me in the right direction to educate myself.
> 
> Thanks for your time,
> Layne


Welcome







Don't worry, we all started somewhere (and it doesn't come "easy" to anybody!)

Start here:

http://rog.asus.com/46212011/rampage-motherboards/rampage-iv-extreme-uefi-bios-guide-for-overclocking-2/
AND
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Ivy-Bridge-E-Easy-Overclocking-Guide-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition

Basically, you have the best motherboard for overclocking, but these chips (Ivy Bridge-e) are finnicky. At the end of the day, you want to keep vcore below 1.40v, and just hope your chip will allow a decent multiplier at that voltage. There's really a lot less "skill" involved than most forum chatter would have you believe, it's really 90% about what we call the "silicon lottery", which is to say whether or not you got lucky and got a chip that is happy to clock high at that voltage or not.

Also, iirc there was some weird stuff with that Vengeance Pro ram specifically with the Rampage IV boards... but I don't recall the specifics. You might want to google it.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I get the same error.
> I have been having problems with accessing MS websites through Chrome. I am not sure why but it seems no matter what I do I am unable to access any MS site.


Even more odd, I'm posting from chrome and haven't had issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I am new to the forum and I am also new to overclocking in general. This is my first build and I am looking for points and help with a system with my specs.
> 
> I have tried various things but it has resulted in instability... so... I am resulting to this forum for education.
> 
> I would like to reach stability at 4.5ghz or higher for the CPU.
> 
> Any help is much appreciated.
> 
> Here is my PC specs:
> 
> Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black Case
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard
> i7-4930K Ivy Bridge 6-Core LGA 2011 3.4GHZ
> Corsair H100i Extreme Performance Water/Liquid CPU Cooler
> Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB Ram (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
> 2x EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified 3GB Cards (Running SLI)
> Corsair AX1200i PSU
> 6x Corsair AF120 Performance Edition Fans
> 
> I am also new to running SLI which I apparently suck at as well.
> 
> Educate me or point me in the right direction to educate myself.
> 
> Thanks for your time,
> Layne


To be perfectly honest, the best advice would have been to buy a more entry level board. Boards like this aren't built or marketed to beginners for a reason.









At any rate, you have the board already so lets see if we can get you sorted out.

First off, you'll want to read this. It isn't for Ivy bridge E but it's close enough for now and does a great job explaining the fundamentals. Once you have read that guide and have a better understanding of overclocking in general we'll be able to help you more.

As far as SLI goes I've always just been able to turn it on and play. The fine tuning in the control panel I've always used to override a specific game's settings to get better performance while also getting better visuals. Unless you're really sensitive to microstutter or are having specific SLI related issues (which you'd have to go into detail describing) there isn't much to "suck at".


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I am new to the forum and I am also new to overclocking in general. This is my first build and I am looking for points and help with a system with my specs.
> 
> I have tried various things but it has resulted in instability... so... I am resulting to this forum for education.
> 
> I would like to reach stability at 4.5ghz or higher for the CPU.
> 
> Any help is much appreciated.
> 
> Here is my PC specs:
> 
> Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black Case
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard
> i7-4930K Ivy Bridge 6-Core LGA 2011 3.4GHZ
> Corsair H100i Extreme Performance Water/Liquid CPU Cooler
> Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB Ram (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
> 2x EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified 3GB Cards (Running SLI)
> Corsair AX1200i PSU
> 6x Corsair AF120 Performance Edition Fans
> 
> I am also new to running SLI which I apparently suck at as well.
> 
> Educate me or point me in the right direction to educate myself.
> 
> Thanks for your time,
> Layne


Hi Layne and welcome to the RIVBE owners club!
It is an awesome board with loads of options for OCing. I know I was definitely overwhelmed.
I can't help you with the SLI as I have yet to do that myself but I can get you started with OCing your CPU.
The others on here are infinitely more qualified than I am but I can at least get you started....
First it looks like you have a decent setup!
If you have been using the presets for OCing then they don't work very well.
Here is a guide that someone one here pointed out to me and it helps alot: Ivy Bridge Guide
I would recommend reading this guide and once you get it set with the basic OC of 4.3ghz others on here can help you out a lot more.

SpecTRe-X also listed another good read above for beginner OCers, like me!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Even more odd, I'm posting from chrome and haven't had issues.
> .


I believe it may have to do with one or two of the adblock and tracking blockers I have installed in Chrome.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I believe it may have to do with one or two of the adblock and tracking blockers I have installed in Chrome.


A tracking blocker perhaps unless you have some kind of weird custom settings for adblock. If you're running a stock adblock then I can tell you that isn't it as I am running it as well.

I'm not going to ask what sites you go to that require you to run tracking protection plug-ins


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I am new to the forum and I am also new to overclocking in general. This is my first build and I am looking for points and help with a system with my specs.
> 
> I have tried various things but it has resulted in instability... so... I am resulting to this forum for education.
> 
> I would like to reach stability at 4.5ghz or higher for the CPU.
> 
> Any help is much appreciated.
> 
> Here is my PC specs:
> 
> Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black Case
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard
> i7-4930K Ivy Bridge 6-Core LGA 2011 3.4GHZ
> Corsair H100i Extreme Performance Water/Liquid CPU Cooler
> Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB Ram (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
> 2x EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified 3GB Cards (Running SLI)
> Corsair AX1200i PSU
> 6x Corsair AF120 Performance Edition Fans
> 
> I am also new to running SLI which I apparently suck at as well.
> 
> Educate me or point me in the right direction to educate myself.
> 
> Thanks for your time,
> Layne


I am not trying to be a downer, not by any means, but hitting 4.5GHz on that CPU on your first build is a bit of a lofty goal. There is a lot of trial and error, and a lot of settings that will impact your overclock, I would shoot for 4.3-4.4 as a starting point (following the aforementioned guides) and from there ensure you have stability and decent temps, then move forward with trying for a higher clock. My H100 was able to keep my 4930K at 4.5 cool enough, so I don't see any problem there, just the variance of the CPU's you need to worry about, and hopefully you have a good unit that overclocks well.

I had a lot of problems getting my chip to 4.5, in fact, I have a difficult time being able to use offset voltages with it at that speed, it really doesn't like it, as well, even when not using the offset, I can ONLY use 1.325V at 4.5, for some reason it proves unstable anything higher or lower, although I personally don't like going beyond 1.38V, it may prove stable (my chip) at those higher voltages, just not worth it to me.

Ultimately, from what I have observed in the last year and a half of having this board, is that it is a risk assessment, is it worth it to crank up the volts to get a stable overclock that is only 100MHz more, or to use a slightly lower clock speed and be able to drop the voltage down much farther, and have a cooler chip, and not worry about voltages.

However, all of that said, maybe that is a bit too much to get into with this being your first build. As others have said, you can't really suck at it unless you refuse to follow instructions, and given that you are asking, I find that to be improbable. lol

I am curious though... If this is your first build, why in the world did you go with these components? It seems a bit much to try your hand at with these parts... I think I would feel overwhelmed, then again my first build was a Pentium Overdrive back in 1999, and yes, I partied like it was...


----------



## layne81

Thanks all for the replies... and the help....

Reev3r,

Seeing that you have the same CPU and board... and have been doing this since 1999....and partied like it was 1999.... Ha!

What did you settle with? I dont want to where the cpu out... I just want kind of a happy medium.

I am a gamer... I am musician that records.... etc.

The reason for me purchasing these components is... I wanted components that will give me room to grow once I learn. I was extremely tired of bottle necks....

I have been a pc gamer since 1994... I just never bit the bullet and bought my own components for my own build... I am well aware what the components are and what they are capable of... It is just learning the bios and how to tweak properly...That is my issue....

Thanks again,
Layne


----------



## Madmaxneo

There are a few of us on here that have the same MB and cpu.
reev3r provides some great advice and is exceptionally knowledgeable.
Just make sure to give him rep as he helps you!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> Thanks all for the replies... and the help....
> 
> Reev3r,
> 
> Seeing that you have the same CPU and board... and have been doing this since 1999....and partied like it was 1999.... Ha!
> 
> What did you settle with? I dont want to where the cpu out... I just want kind of a happy medium.
> 
> I am a gamer... I am musician that records.... etc.
> 
> The reason for me purchasing these components is... I wanted components that will give me room to grow once I learn. I was extremely tired of bottle necks....
> 
> I have been a pc gamer since 1994... I just never bit the bullet and bought my own components for my own build... I am well aware what the components are and what they are capable of... It is just learning the bios and how to tweak properly...That is my issue....
> 
> Thanks again,
> Layne


Okay, so this isn't you just jumping in whole-hog and new, you have some experience under your belt. That makes sense then.

Well, I think starting out at 4.3GHz with stock voltages might be worth a try, it worked for me just fine, but once I moved to 4.4 I had to increase voltages to 1.25. I keep mine at 4.4 just because then I can use offset without the finicky stuff I deal with at 4.5. Although that is irrelevant for you right now, though I do suggest offset once you get a handle on things.

So, yeah, just head into the UEFI/BIOS, and change the AI Overclock Tuner to XMP to start with, this will ensure that your RAM uses its own built in profile to run at the rated speed and timings, while still allowing for manual overclocking.

After that just set the multiplier to 43, and ensure that the BCLK (Base Clock) is set to 100MHz. F10 out of there and see how she boots, if it fails to POST, just clear the CMOS, and start over, this time increasing the voltage to maybe 1.25...

Unfortunately each chip has a different voltage, so this is really the quick and dirty guide to overclocking, I start out like this just to get a rough idea of where it stands, and fine tune from here. Once you have it running at 4.3 and stable, report back and we'll continue to do some tuning.

I am not sure how hurried you are, I am in the hospital right now, so I might not be able to respond immediately, though I'll do my best, if I can not, there are many others here that are rocking some great overclocks, and they'll surely lend a hand as well.

Good luck, and happy overclocking! Congrats on the new rig as well, I am sure everyone will enjoy some pics if you're up to it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I also have a 4930k on this board.
I am running prime95 right now at 4.4ghz. So far so good. Temps have not changed at all from 4.3ghz and I have not increased the voltage any (I think voltage increase and temp increase goes hand in hand?).
FYI I am using my tablet for this post so as to not mess with the system while it is testing and just in case it does shut down on me I won't get frustrated when I loose all I have typed.....

EDIT: After running at 100% load for 15 minutes my temps are up to 51 degrees...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I also have a 4930k on this board.
> I am running prime95 right now at 4.4ghz. So far so good. Temps have not changed at all from 4.3ghz and I have not increased the voltage any (I think voltage increase and temp increase goes hand in hand?).
> FYI I am using my tablet for this post so as to not mess with the system while it is testing and just in case it does shut down on me I won't get frustrated when I loose all I have typed.....


What are your temps looking like? I usually see a max of around ~50℃ with my loop, which consists of just the CPU right now, a 560, a 280, 2 MCP35x pumps with the MCP35x2 top, a 400mm reservoir, and the EK monoblock. That is at [email protected] Unfortunately I didn't get a great chip, but she makes me happy for what I paid ($400).

Yeah, usually when you increase voltages it will show a corresponding increase in temps. Same for increasing the clock speed, and since you often increase both for stability, it yields much higher temps over stock.

I feel like the R4BE and the 4930K is about the most common setup with this board, a nice solid middle ground, the six cores is really what makes it a great choice above the much cheaper 4820K.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I was running about ~50℃.
But when I came back to my it had apparently restarted because it was on the windows start screen and nothing was open when I checked.
I'll go ahead and increase the vcore up a litlle, I think you said 1.25v?
But oddly enough it is still set at 4.4 ghz.......
Bruce


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I was running about ~50℃.
> But when I came back to my it had apparently restarted because it was on the windows start screen and nothing was open when I checked.
> I'll go ahead and increase the vcore up a litlle, I think you said 1.25v?
> But oddly enough it is still set at 4.4 ghz.......
> Bruce


Do you know off hand what the volts were when it was benching (if you have any software running that reports voltages anyway), that way you can be more precise about estimates, but yeah, I found a good starting point to be 1.25, if it is stable, then you can always begin lowering it a little at a time, and if it isn't, then it's always as easy as giving it a little more.

Sometimes even when there is a failure during a stress test it is not detected by the BIOS, so it will restart with the same settings, otherwise it will do the F1 to enter BIOS error.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am in my bios right now and I am not sure which voltages to increase to 1.25.....


----------



## reev3r

Not sure if this is important or not, but Prime95 is a bit of a hammer recently. Sort of over stressing processors, so if you are looking for rock solid, mission critical stability, prime is a good choice, but if you don't need that, there are other stress testing wares that will give you great 'everyday use' stress tests, for things like gaming and non-critical tasks. I use everything from OCCT, to cinebench to give a good all around stress test, instead of using a single test that may not apply to rendering or something.

I started doing that back in 2007, when Prime was giving me rock solid stress tests, but my rig would BSOD when I would Plad CoD:MW. I ran a couple other stressors and would get crashes, so I dropped my clock by 100MHz, and everything worked fine. Just a thought, not always the case, but certainly a good idea to try several different things.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am in my bios right now and I am not sure which voltages to increase to 1.25.....


I believe if you push page down a single time it will bring you to the VCore, VCore is what you'll want to change, it will likely be on auto, you'll need to set it to manual.

I think it says "CPU VCORE VOLTAGE" or something like that...


----------



## Madmaxneo

The only software I have to monitor things is RealTemp and the Eleet program from EVGA which uses the CPU-Z framework.
What do you recommend?
Also which voltages should I increase?

It seems my vcore is already set at 1.376
In the bios under Extreme Tweaker I also have:
VTT CPU voltage between 1.046 to 1.062
2nd VTTCPU voltage @ 1.021 to 1.051
CPU VCCSA Voltage @ 1.103 to 1.125

EDIT: It says the vcore is in manual..... though I don't remember setting it. The options are offset and manual, there is no auto

Here is a screen shot of my settings:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The only software I have to monitor things is RealTemp and the Eleet program from EVGA which uses the CPU-Z framework.
> What do you recommend?
> Also which voltages should I increase?
> 
> It seems my vcore is already set at 1.376
> In the bios under Extreme Tweaker I also have:
> VTT CPU voltage between 1.046 to 1.062
> 2nd VTTCPU voltage @ 1.021 to 1.051
> CPU VCCSA Voltage @ 1.103 to 1.125
> 
> EDIT: It says the vcore is in manual..... though I don't remember setting it. The options are offset and manual, there is no auto
> 
> Here is a screen shot of my settings:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Terribly sorry for the delay, I did not receive any notification for this...

It is not normal that your CPU should be at such high voltage when on manual-auto... What I mean is, the option beneath where it says manual mode that has a box with 'auto' can be clicked on and changed, and that is where you would change the voltage, I think my CPU is at 1.175V with those same settings...

I am a bit perplexed. My first suggestion would be to default the BIOS, and then check that voltage, that is pushing the voltage limits already... I doubt it should ever hit 1.2V at default settings, though I am sure it is possible, that is just crazy high... Have you used any of the option presets before? That is the only thing I can think of that would cause this, those always have crazy high voltages...


----------



## reev3r

Sorry, I got so worked up about the crazy voltage I forgot to answer other things...

What I meant when I said auto is that the main option will be set to manual as it currently is, and the secondary option will be set to auto, as it also currently is, but the voltage should be much lower, as stated above.

Regarding the voltage monitor question, I seem to recall that either real temp or CPU-Z should show the voltage, it will be close to what you set in the BIOS, though there is pretty well always some disparity, alternatively AISuite also shows the voltage if you have that installed.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Terribly sorry for the delay, I did not receive any notification for this...
> 
> It is not normal that your CPU should be at such high voltage when on manual-auto... What I mean is, the option beneath where it says manual mode that has a box with 'auto' can be clicked on and changed, and that is where you would change the voltage, I think my CPU is at 1.175V with those same settings...
> 
> I am a bit perplexed. My first suggestion would be to default the BIOS, and then check that voltage, that is pushing the voltage limits already... I doubt it should ever hit 1.2V at default settings, though I am sure it is possible, that is just crazy high... Have you used any of the option presets before? That is the only thing I can think of that would cause this, those always have crazy high voltages...


Here is what transpired so far. I went in and changed the auto vcore setting (the sub selection under where it says "manual") to a manual setting of 1.25 and it wouldn't even boot up, so I walked it up. When I got it to 1.325 It would boot to the splash screen but then get yet another (but different blue screen). So I just set it to 1.375. Which is the same as in the screenshot above. I ran OCCT which is has a really cool interface btw, for about 40 mins with no problems whatsoever and the temps reached the mid 50's. I stopped it at around 40 mins because I had some things I needed to do on my PC. The interesting thing is it takes screenshots automatically every so often. That can be useful when determining stability issues.

When I first got this board I tried the auto OC settings and then when I installed the H-240X rad I first started using the AI suite and then the OC panel, in which either case it was not stable.
I will go and reset the bios to default and report the voltages here. I will also walk it up to 4.4 again and post those results as well.

Bruce


----------



## seross69

You should be able to get 4.4 / 4.5 on less than 1.4 volts

I am running 4.6 at under 1.35

Keep it simple just do manal voltage dont mess with other settings!! I will read and study what u have done and made recommendations tomorrow


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Here is what transpired so far. I went in and changed the auto vcore setting (the sub selection under where it says "manual") to a manual setting of 1.25 and it wouldn't even boot up, so I walked it up. When I got it to 1.325 It would boot to the splash screen but then get yet another (but different blue screen). So I just set it to 1.375. Which is the same as in the screenshot above. I ran OCCT which is has a really cool interface btw, for about 40 mins with no problems whatsoever and the temps reached the mid 50's. I stopped it at around 40 mins because I had some things I needed to do on my PC. The interesting thing is it takes screenshots automatically every so often. That can be useful when determining stability issues.
> 
> When I first got this board I tried the auto OC settings and then when I installed the H-240X rad I first started using the AI suite and then the OC panel, in which either case it was not stable.
> I will go and reset the bios to default and report the voltages here. I will also walk it up to 4.4 again and post those results as well.
> 
> Bruce


Yeah, that makes me think that the auto settings changed some of the other settings somewhere, it could be some of the advanced stuff deeper in as well, I am very confident that once you default it you should easily hit 4.4 at no more than 1.25v.

That is definitely one if the nice things about OCCT, is that you can check the history to see where odd things might be happening in the graphs.

Don't worry, once you're defaulted we'll get you sorted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You should be able to get 4.4 / 4.5 on less than 1.4 volts
> 
> I am running 4.6 at under 1.35
> 
> Keep it simple just do manal voltage dont mess with other settings!! I will read and study what u have done and made recommendations tomorrow


My, that sounds golden chipesque... Not many of those floating around. Cobgrats!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Yeah, that makes me think that the auto settings changed some of the other settings somewhere, it could be some of the advanced stuff deeper in as well, I am very confident that once you default it you should easily hit 4.4 at no more than 1.25v.
> 
> That is definitely one if the nice things about OCCT, is that you can check the history to see where odd things might be happening in the graphs.
> 
> Don't worry, once you're defaulted we'll get you sorted.
> My, that sounds golden chipesque... Not many of those floating around. Cobgrats!


I did not think so!!! go to 4.7 and it takes over 1.4


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I did not think so!!! go to 4.7 and it takes over 1.4


I was referring to how most of them have a hard time hitting 4.5 with under 1.4. Most of what I have seen is people just being glad when they can do that. Unfortunately these don't clock up like their predecessors, the 2nd and 3rd gen units, my 2500K would happily hit 5.2GHz with a measly Hyper 212, and my 3770K was at 4.7GHz on air as well, albeit with a Phanteks PH-TC14PE...

The IB parts just don't hit those high clocks as well unfortunately.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I reset the bios by hitting F5 and some odd things happened. There were a lot of things that turned on that I did not turn off. Unfortunately I don't remember what they were.








Ok, odd results here with screen shots.
First thing I set was XMP, then I reset it and this is without any OC:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






4,0 OC


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






4.1 OC


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Then I jumped to 4.3 OC which is where I am at.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







As you can see the jump between 4.0 and 4.1 is huge when it comes to voltages.
What could that indicate?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I was referring to how most of them have a hard time hitting 4.5 with under 1.4. Most of what I have seen is people just being glad when they can do that. Unfortunately these don't clock up like their predecessors, the 2nd and 3rd gen units, my 2500K would happily hit 5.2GHz with a measly Hyper 212, and my 3770K was at 4.7GHz on air as well, albeit with a Phanteks PH-TC14PE...
> 
> The IB parts just don't hit those high clocks as well unfortunately.


Yeah you right and i have the 4960x and maybe this is why i can clock like i do


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yeah you right and i have the 4960x and maybe this is why i can clock like i do


I don't have much experience with the $1,000 processors anymore, so that is entirely possible.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I don't have much experience with the $1,000 processors anymore, so that is entirely possible.


Trust me i did not pay that got it fot 700 so could not refuse!! Lol


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Trust me i did not pay that got it fot 700 so could not refuse!! Lol


Ha, I probably would have bought it and sold it at that price... lol I haven't been able to justify those processors for many years now. They just don't provide enough of an increase in my tasks to excuse the cost. However, if you have the money, or make money using them, and you can cut a few minutes off time spent doing something, then the long term savings is certainly there. Not sure how you use it, but I'm sure it's a treat.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey my results got lost in your conversation!...lol... it is post 12227!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I reset the bios by hitting F5 and some odd things happened. There were a lot of things that turned on that I did not turn off. Unfortunately I don't remember what they were.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, odd results here with screen shots.
> First thing I set was XMP, then I reset it and this is without any OC:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4,0 OC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.1 OC
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I jumped to 4.3 OC which is where I am at.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the jump between 4.0 and 4.1 is huge when it comes to voltages.
> What could that indicate?


you dont have a good chip ... 1.32 volts for 4.3 is not good as I can get this at 4.6


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hey my results got lost in your conversation!...lol... it is post 12227!


Are you setting these voltages yourself?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Are you setting these voltages yourself?


no all I did was increase the OC clock value, 40, 41, 42, 43, and 44.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> no all I did was increase the OC clock value, 40, 41, 42, 43, and 44.


put it in manual voltages and at 44 try 1.30 volts!!! don't change anything else


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> no all I did was increase the OC clock value, 40, 41, 42, 43, and 44.


Okay, that seems a bit odd to me, but we'll go with it. You'll want to manually change the voltage in the 'auto' field, just below the manual/offset box. At a multiplier of 44, set the voltage to 1.25 and see if that works. I've never actually had my voltage automatically go up like that, on my board it will just crash if I do not increase it. You said you do not have AISuite installed right? Because that can muck about with your BIOS settings.

EDIT: I was a bit slow on this one, his suggestion is just as valid, either way you will end up increasing or decreasing the voltage once you test it. I always start low and go up, just my way of going about it...


----------



## reev3r

I would like to point out at this juncture, that the only problem with this way of setting voltages, manual and not offset, is that it will always be at this voltage, regardless of your CPU usage, at idle or full load it will give the CPU the same voltage, this helps with stability, but obviously lower is better when it comes to your power bill.

If you want to try offset later, it is kind of fun to get working, as it takes a good bit more trial and error, and more settings affect it significantly.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Okay, that seems a bit odd to me, but we'll go with it. You'll want to manually change the voltage in the 'auto' field, just below the manual/offset box. At a multiplier of 44, set the voltage to 1.25 and see if that works. I've never actually had my voltage automatically go up like that, on my board it will just crash if I do not increase it. You said you do not have AISuite installed right? Because that can muck about with your BIOS settings.
> 
> EDIT: I was a bit slow on this one, his suggestion is just as valid, either way you will end up increasing or decreasing the voltage once you test it. I always start low and go up, just my way of going about it...


I do have AI suite installed. I mentioned trying to use that when I first started trying to push my OC.
Could that be "mucking" it up?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I do have AI suite installed. I mentioned trying to use that when I first started trying to push my OC.
> Could that be "mucking" it up?


At this point I doubt it, but we will find out once you adjust the voltage to a manual setting. If you check AISuite and it isn't what you set, then you know it is mucking it up.


----------



## reev3r

Bear in mind, you can easily see up to a .05v variance in software, so beware of that.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Well right now the AI suite is reporting my vcore at 1.315 and it is still set at the 4.3 setting.
So it is not reporting the same as the bios it seems.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well right now the AI suite is reporting my vcore at 1.315 and it is still set at the 4.3 setting.
> So it is not reporting the same as the bios it seems.


Have you changed the voltage already? If so what did you set it to?

It might also be an option to set the voltage with AISuite as well, that way you know it isn't changing.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well right now the AI suite is reporting my vcore at 1.315 and it is still set at the 4.3 setting.
> So it is not reporting the same as the bios it seems.


delete the AI all it does is cause problems for someone that is really trying to over clock and not play!!! as a matter of fact I would do a reinstall with out it because of all the things it leaves in the registry!!!


----------



## reev3r

I think right now if you set the voltage the same in BIOS and in AISuite you can safely use it, once you start doing certain other things (offset for example) it just causes problems, loading its own settings and overriding the settings in the BIOS.

There is a removal tool for AISuite, well, at least there was, I am sure it can still be found.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have (or used to have) Revo uninstaller and I use CCleaner now. Both are pretty good registy cleaners. I have not been able to go in and adjust any voltages yet. The problem with trying to adjust the voltages in the AI suite to the same as the BIOS is pretty much impossible if I am unable to boot into windows....
I really like fan control in the AI suite and the wifi stuff also. How do I set up the wifi if I delete the AI suite?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have (or used to have) Revo uninstaller and I use CCleaner now. Both are pretty good registy cleaners. I have not been able to go in and adjust any voltages yet. The problem with trying to adjust the voltages in the AI suite to the same as the BIOS is pretty much impossible if I am unable to boot into windows....
> I really like fan control in the AI suite and the wifi stuff also. How do I set up the wifi if I delete the AI suite?


Yeah, I use AISuite as well, and through trial and error, and several reibstalls of both it and Windows, I have it working sufficiently well, I could not live without the fan tuning abilities, all my fans and pumps are controlled by it.

Well, you will get into Windows with the BIOS settings, and then once AISuite loads, just set the same voltage there...

Windows has a Wi-Fi setup utility built in, it is in the system tray, and all you do is click on it and select the network you want to connect to, and then it gives you a prompt to type in the key. Its very easy as well.


----------



## reev3r

I forgot to mention, some of the AISuite registry settings aren't deleted by revo or ccleaner, I had to go in and delete a bunch of them manually at one point, before I found a removal tool anyway, I do not recommend it, because some of the entries are necessary for basic functionality, but still under the AISuite name, even if you never installed it.


----------



## seross69

Guys good luck with the AI Suite all it has ever done is cause me problems!!! I might be old school but believe all should be done through bios


----------



## reev3r

Here we go, a quick search yielded THIS, should you need it at some point. Though I wouldn't fret too much once you get voltages sorted.

Let me know once you try the lower manual voltage I suggested and report if it worked, if it doesn't, then just creep up the voltage by .02v at a time until it does boot, I find that to be the quickest small increment to go with, though you could really use any increment you want.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Guys good luck with the AI Suite all it has ever done is cause me problems!!! I might be old school but believe all should be done through bios


I totally agree, unfortunately I can't set my PWM fan profiles from the BIOS, that is the only reason I still have it installed. lok


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I forgot to mention, some of the AISuite registry settings aren't deleted by revo or ccleaner, I had to go in and delete a bunch of them manually at one point, before I found a removal tool anyway, I do not recommend it, because some of the entries are necessary for basic functionality, but still under the AISuite name, even if you never installed it.


I found the removal tool, it is on the Asus forum threads.
This is what I am doing:
I am setting the AI suite first and then the BIOS. Right now I am at 1.3 vcore at 4.3 ghz, I will try 4.4 next. Though no stress testing just yet. I will try that if it boots into windows just fine at 4.4.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Guys good luck with the AI Suite all it has ever done is cause me problems!!! I might be old school but believe all should be done through bios


You do seem old school in that regard and there is much I can learn from you. There are things in the AI suite that I really like so I would prefer to keep it. But OTH what would be the point of purchasing such a powerful board if not to push it like that?
I will uninstall the AI Suite III only if I really need to.

Thanks for the assistance so far guys! Kudos to both of you!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I found the removal tool, it is on the Asus forum threads.
> This is what I am doing:
> I am setting the AI suite first and then the BIOS. Right now I am at 1.3 vcore at 4.3 ghz, I will try 4.4 next. Though no stress testing just yet. I will try that if it boots into windows just fine at 4.4.
> 
> Thanks for the assistance so far guys! Kudos to both of you!


That sounds like a plan. I hope we can get you rocking a nice solid overclock with some low voltages! Once we iron out the optimal voltage we can start working on the other settings there are. I really suggest giving offset a try once we figure out the stable voltage, it's just a matter of setting the positive or negative offset voltage for your processor, and then it will automatically drop the voltage when the load drops, and increase it when you kick it in high gear.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I found the removal tool, it is on the Asus forum threads.
> This is what I am doing:
> I am setting the AI suite first and then the BIOS. Right now I am at 1.3 vcore at 4.3 ghz, I will try 4.4 next. Though no stress testing just yet. I will try that if it boots into windows just fine at 4.4.
> You do seem old school in that regard and there is much I can learn from you. There are things in the AI suite that I really like so I would prefer to keep it. But OTH what would be the point of purchasing such a powerful board if not to push it like that?
> I will uninstall the AI Suite III only if I really need to.
> 
> Thanks for the assistance so far guys! Kudos to both of you!


just kudos???


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> just kudos???


Is that a subtle way of asking for the well deserved rep, or a six pack?








Kudos abound!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> just kudos???


I can send you a cookie if you like, or do you prefer a lollipop?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Is that a subtle way of asking for the well deserved rep, or a six pack?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kudos abound!


Kudos goes hand in hand with rep...lol...
which was added before

I was not able to boot into a 4.4 OC with only 1.3 vcore. But I was able to do it with a 1.31 vcore.
Stable? you ask, I am going to check in a bit. At least for a few minutes, maybe I'll add in some Skyrim on hires in there....

Oh and by the way it took a few times at 4.3 on 1.3 vcore to boot all the way up.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I can send you a cookie if you like, or do you prefer a lollipop?
> Kudos goes hand in hand with rep...lol...
> which was added before
> 
> I was not able to boot into a 4.4 OC with only 1.3 vcore. But I was able to do it with a 1.31 vcore.
> Stable? you ask, I am going to check in a bit. At least for a few minutes, maybe I'll add in some Skyrim on hires in there....
> 
> Oh and by the way it took a few times at 4.3 on 1.3 vcore to boot all the way up.


Okay, well hopefully we can get you to 4.5 without going too much higher, but it doesn't feel like it will be easy. I am thinking that you'll need to go a little higher to get stable under load, booting is much easier to do at low voltages.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Okay, well hopefully we can get you to 4.5 without going too much higher, but it doesn't feel like it will be easy. I am thinking that you'll need to go a little higher to get stable under load, booting is much easier to do at low voltages.


do the 4.5 starting with 1.4 and move it back by .05v until it not stable then increase it by .05


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> do the 4.5 starting with 1.4 and move it back by .05v until it not stable then increase it by .05


Yeah, that's probably the better method to even see if 4.5 is possible. Good call. I always have fun working my way up, but he actually has a goal in mind...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Couldn't do 4.5 @ 1.4.
But it does 4.4 @ 1.4 which is what I am at now.

I am starting to think it has something to do with the AI suite
But it could also just be a bad chip.

Another thing is that my temps are still in the low 30's/high 20's and I am at 4.4ghz with a 1.4 vcore...

BTW how do I tell my voltages while under a stress test?
Does OCCT do that?
The last time I ran OCCT it didn't show me any graphs.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Couldn't do 4.5 @ 1.4.
> But it does 4.4 @ 1.4 which is what I am at now.
> 
> I am starting to think it has something to do with the AI suite
> But it could also just be a bad chip.
> 
> Another thing is that my temps are still in the low 30's/high 20's and I am at 4.4ghz with a 1.4 vcore...
> 
> BTW how do I tell my voltages while under a stress test?
> Does OCCT do that?
> The last time I ran OCCT it didn't show me any graphs.


I am pretty sure OCCT will show them at the end in the graphs, they are all stored in I thi k you documents folder. Alternatively, using CPU-z should show the current volts, as well as using AISuite to monitor them, although it sometimes will lock up during stress testing. CPU-z will show a core vid, that's your current voltage, roughly, typically you'll see slightly higher actual voltages than what you set.

Your temps are that low during OCCT?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am pretty sure OCCT will show them at the end in the graphs, they are all stored in I thi k you documents folder. Alternatively, using CPU-z should show the current volts, as well as using AISuite to monitor them, although it sometimes will lock up during stress testing. CPU-z will show a core vid, that's your current voltage, roughly, typically you'll see slightly higher actual voltages than what you set.
> 
> Your temps are that low during OCCT?


LOL I wish! That was at idle or normal use....
My temps stayed around the mid 50's during testing and peaked at about 61.
I just finished playing skyrim at hires and I had not problems what so ever, in fact it seemed to run more smooth......
I just got another recommendation to uninstall the AI Suite.

EDIT: I just noticed something in the AI Suite.
Should the CPU phase control be on extreme?
Because it is.....not sure why though..


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> LOL I wish! That was at idle or normal use....
> My temps stayed around the mid 50's during testing and peaked at about 61.
> I just finished playing skyrim at hires and I had not problems what so ever, in fact it seemed to run more smooth......
> I just got another recommendation to uninstall the AI Suite.


Okay, I was going to be pretty shocked if your temps were that low.lol

Anybody given you specific reasons for uninstalling it? Other than some minor problems for me with offset, it works like a charm, especially if I want to putz with my multiplier or BCLK on the fly...

If you are planning to do more advanced overclocking it might be best to get rid of it, just because it doesn't always like to maintain the settings you select, but for basic overclocking I don't see any reasons to worry about it. That is my perspective anyway, but I would encourage you to do your own experimenting, and see how you feel about keeping it or ditching it, don't just take our suggestions, all that really matters is what works best for you.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> What are your temps looking like? I usually see a max of around ~50℃ with my loop, which consists of just the CPU right now, a 560, a 280, 2 MCP35x pumps with the MCP35x2 top, a 400mm reservoir, and the EK monoblock. That is at [email protected] Unfortunately I didn't get a great chip, but she makes me happy for what I paid ($400).
> 
> Yeah, usually when you increase voltages it will show a corresponding increase in temps. Same for increasing the clock speed, and since you often increase both for stability, it yields much higher temps over stock.
> 
> I feel like the R4BE and the 4930K is about the most common setup with this board, a nice solid middle ground, the six cores is really what makes it a great choice *above the much cheaper 4820K*.


I think I resent that bit! lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Couldn't do 4.5 @ 1.4.
> But it does 4.4 @ 1.4 which is what I am at now.
> 
> I am starting to think it has something to do with the AI suite
> But it could also just be a bad chip.
> 
> Another thing is that my temps are still in the low 30's/high 20's and I am at 4.4ghz with a 1.4 vcore...
> 
> BTW how do I tell my voltages while under a stress test?
> Does OCCT do that?
> The last time I ran OCCT it didn't show me any graphs.


Like ree3r said, CPU-z is what you should be using for voltage monitoring while stressing. Intel's XTU program also has a nice monitoring option list.

To be honest it sounds like a bad chip. The AISuite program for the RivBE can't auto-activate an OC profile on startup (last I heard) so any changes it is making to a bios driven OC would point to a rather large issue with the way the program functions overall. For that reason alone it should be uninstalled, but that's just my opinion.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Couldn't do 4.5 @ 1.4.
> But it does 4.4 @ 1.4 which is what I am at now.
> 
> I am starting to think it has something to do with the AI suite
> But it could also just be a bad chip.
> 
> Another thing is that my temps are still in the low 30's/high 20's and I am at 4.4ghz with a 1.4 vcore...
> 
> BTW how do I tell my voltages while under a stress test?
> Does OCCT do that?
> The last time I ran OCCT it didn't show me any graphs.


If it is truly crashing at 4,4 Ghz with 1,4 volts it is worse than my old 3930K (sold now), it managed to do 4,5 Ghz at around 1,4 volts, 4,6 Ghz was around 1,42 volts if I remember correctly. That was Sandy-E though, I traded it in with a 4930K and it has been a good "life" after that.









I just looked over some of your screenshots and noticed that you had set the DRAM Voltage to 1,6 volts, is there a reason for this? As a little rule of thumb, first overclock your CPU (and when it is stable-ish) then overclock the memory. You should leave the memory at stock timings and voltage for now, or do 1866 Mhz @ 9-9-9-24 timings and 1,5 volts if your RAM is rated any higher than 1866 Mhz. Because that 1,6 volts of DRAM Voltage is actually "overclocking" your RAM while you are trying to get a stable CPU overclock, that is not too smart.









Also, like said before, forget about AI Suite and the OC Panel, the easiest way to achieve a stable overclock (in my experience) is through the BIOS, use manual mode and set the voltages yourself. I am not sure if this is still a problem, but be sure that the LLC is set to 140% or whatever it says, the settings are under the CPU-section of the bios if I am not mistaking. I am sure someone can chime in on this and show you screenshots (I have screenshots too if that is wanted). Monitor your voltage with CPU-Z, use proper software to monitor temperature such as HW Monitor. Either use AIDA64 or Prime95 for stress-testing, I prefer AIDA64.


Spoiler: Stable bios for my 4930K from 4,5 Ghz to 4,9 Ghz


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I think I resent that bit! lol


ha, if only you knew how long it took me to save up for the 4930K after I bought the 4820K just to use my motherboard, and I only bought that because it was $200! I had to wait 8 months after in order to get this CPU, so







I really wasn't happy with a motherboard that cost me $475 with performance on par with and sometimes less than a Z97/4770K, so I don't msec up getting this one. Though I did try to avoid spending $1,000 on my mobo/processor alone, I was eventually thwarted by performance below expectations.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> To be honest it sounds like a bad chip. The AISuite program for the RivBE can't auto-activate an OC profile on startup (last I heard) so any changes it is making to a bios driven OC would point to a rather large issue with the way the program functions overall. For that reason alone it should be uninstalled, but that's just my opinion.


I could very well be mistaken, but I am pretty confident that AISuite is able to load your overclock settings at startup... At least it did with AISuite II on my Z77 board and my 3770K... I could have sworn I played with it when I first got the 4820K, as I was super excited about trying AISuite III, which I tried to ham-fist onto my Z77 rig, but never quite got it to work.. Although, it has been a year and a half or more, so I could be mistaken completely, haven't used it for that in a fair bit of time... I am neither at my computer, nor willing to destroy all I have accomplished getting AISuite and my BIOS to play nice together, so could someone let me know if this occurs just for verifications sake, I really dislike spreading the wrong information when I can avoid it.

Muchos grassyass.

EDIT: I did mean to add that I think your spot on and this one just isn't going to be a great performer though.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Not sure I caught everything that transpired in the 5 pages of back-and-forth on this, but fwiw try increasing vcssa before vcore. In my experience, I could throw vcore at my chip until it melted, but with less than 1.2v vcssa it was NEVER getting stable. Now I give it 1.2v vcssa, and it's perfectly stable at 4.7ghz.

Everyone is so quick to increase vcore, but doing so won't do you any good until you give the IMC enough volts to comply with what the cores are trying to do. It takes a village.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Not sure I caught everything that transpired in the 5 pages of back-and-forth on this, but fwiw try increasing vcssa before vcore. In my experience, I could throw vcore at my chip until it melted, but with less than 1.2v vcssa it was NEVER getting stable. Now I give it 1.2v vcssa, and it's perfectly stable at 4.7ghz.
> 
> Everyone is so quick to increase vcore, but doing so won't do you any good until you give the IMC enough volts to comply with what the cores are trying to do. It takes a village.


I LOVE it when this happens! When someone basically says exactly what my next step was going to be. I always start with the simplest possible solution, sometimes vcore can be nudged and get a nice overclock, but if not (as I mentioned), then it is time to dig deeper and start working with those sub, and tertiary settings to get things sorted.


----------



## reev3r

*OFF TOPIC*

Alright, I know many people on here have CaseLabs cases, can I get everyone who has an opinion on the current thermaltake stealing designs from caselabs, fractal design, and swiftech, to leave their thoughts (politely) on the thermaltake social media pages.

I am just so heartbroken and disappointed by this, for the most part this industry does pretty good, and is respectful of the innovations that others make, and they are then inspired to do one, or several better...

But this, this is not that... I mean, I own a caselabs case, and I encouraged my friend to get the R5, which we built in, and I can nary tell the differences between these designs. Mostly because it is a straight cookie cutter design.

I find it pathetic, and I would be ashamed to work for such a company. ASHAMED.

So, I know this is everywhere right now, but I HAD to share my thoughts, especially since CL is not some huge behemoth, they don't have hundreds of employees and engineers, it's basically two guys doibg what they love, and if thermaltake steals their designs and mass produces them, then undercuts them by, who knows, 25%, it is going to make it difficult for them to continue doing what they love, and providing us with GREAT products.

Such disappointment.

rantover.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Upon everyone's advice I am going to uninstall AIsuite3.
I think this is my only choice if I want to try and reach decent OC's with this chip.
I have a program called speed control for the fans and windows should take care of the wifi stuff.
If this doesn't work and my chip still can't OC good then I will re-install AIsuite3.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> *OFF TOPIC*
> 
> Alright, I know many people on here have CaseLabs cases, can I get everyone who has an opinion on the current thermaltake stealing designs from caselabs, fractal design, and swiftech, to leave their thoughts (politely) on the thermaltake social media pages.
> 
> I am just so heartbroken and disappointed by this, for the most part this industry does pretty good, and is respectful of the innovations that others make, and they are then inspired to do one, or several better...
> 
> But this, this is not that... I mean, I own a caselabs case, and I encouraged my friend to get the R5, which we built in, and I can nary tell the differences between these designs. Mostly because it is a straight cookie cutter design.
> 
> I find it pathetic, and I would be ashamed to work for such a company. ASHAMED.
> 
> So, I know this is everywhere right now, but I HAD to share my thoughts, especially since CL is not some huge behemoth, they don't have hundreds of employees and engineers, it's basically two guys doibg what they love, and if thermaltake steals their designs and mass produces them, then undercuts them by, who knows, 25%, it is going to make it difficult for them to continue doing what they love, and providing us with GREAT products.
> 
> Such disappointment.
> 
> rantover.


I did not know this. Your right is is pathetic, especially for a big company like that. Where are the two companies located? It depends on what nation the offending company is in, if it is in the States they can be easily sued. You have a link to their forums?

EDIT: I just saw the post on vcsa, I will try increasing that and see if I can hit 4.5 on 1.4 vcore!
Then look at uninstalling AIsuite3


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Upon everyone's advice I am going to uninstall AIsuite3.
> I think this is my only choice if I want to try and reach decent OC's with this chip.
> I have a program called speed control for the fans and windows should take care of the wifi stuff.
> If this doesn't work and my chip still can't OC good then I will re-install AIsuite3.


Well, as I mentioned before, and as chrisnyc, they are MANY other settings to try and find stability. A lot of them in AISuite to make things easier to do, without needing to restart everytime. However, if you are more comfortable with the BIOS, then props to you and run for it!

Unfortunately, from here I think it will be best to read some guides, to get a better understanding of why you change certain things, and what they do, but if you still can't get it working come back and I for one, and surely anybody else available, will do our best.

If you need some links to guides let me know, there are many posted throughout this thread, but I can probably find some if needed.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I did not know this. Your right is is pathetic, especially for a big company like that. Where are the two companies located? It depends on what nation the offending company is in, if it is in the States they can be easily sued. You have a link to their forums?
> 
> EDIT: I just saw the post on vcsa, I will try increasing that and see if I can hit 4.5 on 1.4 vcore!
> Then look at uninstalling AIsuite3


Caselabs is in California, not sure where fractal and thermaltake are, and I think swiftech is German, or is that EK, maybe that's just EK...

Awesome, give it a shot, keep me updated on your progress, really excited to see how she responds to the little tweaks. I LOVE this part! So exciting to inch your way forwards using all the various settings. So exciting!


----------



## reev3r

I just reread my last post... What a total nerdgasm I was having there... Suchadork.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Upon everyone's advice I am going to uninstall AIsuite3.
> I think this is my only choice if I want to try and reach decent OC's with this chip.
> I have a program called speed control for the fans and windows should take care of the wifi stuff.
> If this doesn't work and my chip still can't OC good then I will re-install AIsuite3.


Did you even look at the bios screenshots I took for you?

First off, set your ram to: 1866 Mhz, 1,5 volt DRAM voltage and 9-9-9-24 timings. By using the settings you currently use is just looking for unstable overclocks, many BSOD's is caused by unstable memory-overclocks.
Second, dial in the bios-settings I posted in my previously post, set the multiplyer to what you want (in your case 45) and set the core voltage to 1,3 volts, then increse or decrese the voltage with 0.05 volts depending if the system boots or not and if it gets into Windows.

Just uninstall AISuite, use CPU-Z, P95 and HW Monitor and you should be able to get stable-ish.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Did you even look at the bios screenshots I took for you?
> 
> First off, set your ram to: 1866 Mhz, 1,5 volt DRAM voltage and 9-9-9-24 timings. By using the settings you currently use is just looking for unstable overclocks, many BSOD's is caused by unstable memory-overclocks.
> Second, dial in the bios-settings I posted in my previously post, set the multiplyer to what you want (in your case 45) and set the core voltage to 1,3 volts, then increse or decrese the voltage with 0.05 volts depending if the system boots or not and if it gets into Windows.
> 
> Just uninstall AISuite, use CPU-Z, P95 and HW Monitor and you should be able to get stable-ish.


My RAM is set to XMP. Which sets all those settings in accordance with the specific RAM. The RAM I have is 2133 and supports XMP. Your the first one to tell me to turn that off.
I did look at your photos and just tried some of the settings. Except turning off XMP.

I set vccsa to 1.2 volts and was able to boot into windows at 4.5ghz, I started the OCCT stress test and forgot to open RealTemp, in the process of opening RealTemp I got the smiley face BSOD (is the smiley face supposed to make it better?).
I wasn't able to boot back into windows at 4.5 after that.
then I went in to change the vccsa in AISuite3 to 1.2 and that was already changed, I think that is kind of odd that vccsa in the AIsuite adjusts in accordance with the bios but the vcore in AIsuite3 will not.
So unless someone has a better idea I am going to uninstall AIsuite sometime today when I get the chance.

@reev3r Swiftech is in Cali also...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Not sure how that happened but my reply was posted twice, though the second time it was before I finished writing the post....odd. I deleted the contents and this is what is left


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> My RAM is set to XMP. Which sets all those settings in accordance with the specific RAM. The RAM I have is 2133 and supports XMP. Your the first one to tell me to turn that off.
> I did look at your photos and just tried some of the settings. Except turning off XMP.
> 
> I set vccsa to 1.2 volts and was able to boot into windows at 4.5ghz, I started the OCCT stress test and forgot to open RealTemp, in the process of opening RealTemp I got the smiley face BSOD (is the smiley face supposed to make it better?).
> I wasn't able to boot back into windows at 4.5 after that.
> then I went in to change the vccsa in AISuite3 to 1.2 and that was already changed, I think that is kind of odd that vccsa in the AIsuite adjusts in accordance with the bios but the vcore in AIsuite3 will not.
> So unless someone has a better idea I am going to uninstall AIsuite sometime today when I get the chance.
> 
> @reev3r Swiftech is in Cali also...


XMP profiles does not mean anything, if you know better then me sure go ahead and have an unstable system, not really my problem that you do not want to try to get your system stable ...







2133Mhz is still a overclock of memory even if your memory has XMP at 2133Mhz, my memory has 2400Mhz XMP, if I run my ram at 2400Mhz at the rated speeds I get BSODs with a stable overclock with my RAM at 1866Mhz. Higher RAM-speeds = higher voltage on your CPU, simple as that. And you do not know that your XMP-profile actually is stable, do you? I would like to know how you do know that.








XMP is just setting the "default" values for your RAM-sticks in BIOS, nothing else, manual mode is ALWAYS better because you have full control over the settings. I have had a lot of help in this thread to setup my bios right for my chip and my memory-sticks, it is rock-solid.

Smiley face BSOD? Try to see what the number of the BSOD is, what it is ending on, like BSOD 124 (the last three letters is 124 is due to memory/high temperature), there are lots of different BSOD's. Write it down if that is easier, try to give us more information about when the BSOD's come, but generelly, if you get BSOD in anything = higher core voltage. If your system BSOD dial it back to something that is stable, restart the computer and try to get a better overclock, if your system gets corrupted you might have to recover it too.
Uninstall AIsuite right away.









And, needless to say, put your RAM-settings to 1866Mhz, 1,5volts and 9-9-9-24 (or 9-9-9-27 which I use for my Dominator Platinums). Forget XMP-profile, you would need to tweak the memory later anyways so ... no point in trying to overclock memory and cpu at the same time, LinusTechTips said that he always overclocked CPU first then memory (after that the CPU was stable) in a video a while ago in one of his "Overclocking-guides" it is a good rule of thumb.









1) Uninstall AISuite
2) Set your settings in BIOS like the ones in my BIOS (disable XMP and use Manual mode for memory as well).
3) Try 4,5 Ghz at 1,4 volts and test stability (if temperature is no problem) and dial it down with 0.05 volts if the system is stable at 1,4 volts. You want to find the sweetspot right were your chip is stable at the lowest possible Vcore voltage.
4) When your CPU is stable, start tweaking the memory

Come back and tell us what did happen, which BSOD you did get and when (before the Windows-loading screen, on desktop, starting program or while stress-testing).







Good luck!


----------



## chrisnyc75

XMP only sets primary timings and DRAMV; it does NOT set secondary or tertiary timings, and it does not set IMC voltage - all of which are essential to system stability.

XMP is fine to use, but you need to realize it's not a "one click" solution. It merely sets the most basic settings. Using the XMP profile, though, you should be able to look at the SPD of the ram and at least SEE what the secondary, and perhaps tertiary, timings should be (and maybe even IMC voltage) and manually set them accordingly.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> XMP profiles does not mean anything, if you know better then me sure go ahead and have an unstable system, not really my problem that you do not want to try to get your system stable ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2133Mhz is still a overclock of memory even if your memory has XMP at 2133Mhz, my memory has 2400Mhz XMP, if I run my ram at 2400Mhz at the rated speeds I get BSODs with a stable overclock with my RAM at 1866Mhz. Higher RAM-speeds = higher voltage on your CPU, simple as that. And you do not know that your XMP-profile actually is stable, do you? I would like to know how you do know that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XMP is just setting the "default" values for your RAM-sticks in BIOS, nothing else, manual mode is ALWAYS better because you have full control over the settings. I have had a lot of help in this thread to setup my bios right for my chip and my memory-sticks, it is rock-solid.
> 
> Smiley face BSOD? Try to see what the number of the BSOD is, what it is ending on, like BSOD 124 (the last three letters is 124 is due to memory/high temperature), there are lots of different BSOD's. Write it down if that is easier, try to give us more information about when the BSOD's come, but generelly, if you get BSOD in anything = higher core voltage. If your system BSOD dial it back to something that is stable, restart the computer and try to get a better overclock, if your system gets corrupted you might have to recover it too.
> Uninstall AIsuite right away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, needless to say, put your RAM-settings to 1866Mhz, 1,5volts and 9-9-9-24 (or 9-9-9-27 which I use for my Dominator Platinums). Forget XMP-profile, you would need to tweak the memory later anyways so ... no point in trying to overclock memory and cpu at the same time, LinusTechTips said that he always overclocked CPU first then memory (after that the CPU was stable) in a video a while ago in one of his "Overclocking-guides" it is a good rule of thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Uninstall AISuite
> 2) Set your settings in BIOS like the ones in my BIOS (disable XMP and use Manual mode for memory as well).
> 3) Try 4,5 Ghz at 1,4 volts and test stability (if temperature is no problem) and dial it down with 0.05 volts if the system is stable at 1,4 volts. You want to find the sweetspot right were your chip is stable at the lowest possible Vcore voltage.
> 4) When your CPU is stable, start tweaking the memory
> 
> Come back and tell us what did happen, which BSOD you did get and when (before the Windows-loading screen, on desktop, starting program or while stress-testing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck!


You're coming off as a little arrogant, can you please take it back a step?
I have different RAM (G. Skill Trident X 2133mhz) and the settings are probably way different than yours....
I tried what you recommended and turned off XMP and set my settings manually as you suggested, and guess what...... I got worse results. I wasn't even able to get to the splash screen! So I turned XMP back on and I am back to where I started. I have been told (and still am being told the same thing on the Asus boards) that XMP does not make ones system unstable but in fact can help stability.
On the BSODs I am getting there are no error codes just a unhappy smiley face (I said smiley face earlier but I was mistaken) and a note saying something to the effect "there was a problem with your system and we are collecting info......". Then it suggests to look up "whea_somethingsomething" on the internet if I need more info but it goes away to fast for me to write anything down. I think it says "WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR" but I am not entirely sure. I looked it up though and it is right along the lines of hardware error.
FYI, I call it a BSOD but it isn't the same looking as the BSODS from 98SE (last time I saw a BSOD), it is a light blue screen and the error has no numbers in it whatsoever.

FYI I have been running XMP since I built this rig and have not had any problems whatsoever and I play quite a few high end games (though my gpu limits my settings). I have also been running XMP since I started OCing and have not had any problems until I started trying to hit 4.4 which I am at now but am still unable to hit 4.5 (with or without XMP). I thought maybe you might have a point but when I disabled XMP my system "seemed" to became more unstable.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You're coming off as a little arrogant, can you please take it back a step?
> I have different RAM (G. Skill Trident X 2133mhz) and the settings are probably way different than yours....
> I tried what you recommended and turned off XMP and set my settings manually as you suggested, and guess what...... I got worse results. I wasn't even able to get to the splash screen! So I turned XMP back on and I am back to where I started. I have been told (and still am being told the same thing on the Asus boards) that XMP does not make ones system unstable but in fact can help stability.
> On the BSODs I am getting there are no error codes just a unhappy smiley face (I said smiley face earlier but I was mistaken) and a note saying something to the effect "there was a problem with your system and we are collecting info......". Then it suggests to look up "whea_somethingsomething" on the internet if I need more info but it goes away to fast for me to write anything down. I think it says "WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR" but I am not entirely sure. I looked it up though and it is right along the lines of hardware error.
> FYI, I call it a BSOD but it isn't the same looking as the BSODS from 98SE (last time I saw a BSOD), it is a light blue screen and the error has no numbers in it whatsoever.
> 
> FYI I have been running XMP since I built this rig and have not had any problems whatsoever and I play quite a few high end games (though my gpu limits my settings). I have also been running XMP since I started OCing and have not had any problems until I started trying to hit 4.4 which I am at now but am still unable to hit 4.5 (with or without XMP). I thought maybe you might have a point but when I disabled XMP my system "seemed" to became more unstable.


I agree they sound very arrogant!!! And you are not trying to bench and get high scores just want a decent overclock as I understand you???

I always use xmp and can get good overclocks with it! My ram is gskill 2400 mhz and i have 64 gb kit!! And can actually achieve 4.8 at close to 1.5v. But volts are 2 high for me!!!

Personally only thing i adjust is the vcore, i know i may be leaving some mhz unused but this is the way i do it


----------



## reev3r

Wow, that went south quickly.


----------



## reev3r

XMP is a verified speed that your RAM is able to run at, is it technically overclocked, yes, is it done in such a way that 99% of the time using XMP is perfectly fine, yes, so getting so worked up about it isn't really helpful to the end goal.

If you want to make a suggestion it might be best to do so politely and with a friendly attitude, this group has been one of the best groups of people I have been able to work with, because even when someone knows an infinite amount more, then take the time to explain it clearly, without any sort of attitude.

That being said, in some ways you are right, there is a memory controller on the CPU, so the higher the speed the more load on it, I do not know about the voltage part, regardless, this is why I always run 1600MHz RAM, since there is NEVER a performance improvement with faster RAM, as the more relaxed timings offset the higher clock speeds.

He may be right, I simply do not have the experience in faster RAM, as there's no point. Just more load on the memory controller, and I have 32GB, so higher speeds are more difficult with more slots filled.

He may be right, default your RAM to the stock settings and see if that helps, using the manual option instead of XMP.


----------



## Madmaxneo

So far it seems there is no difference with AISuite3 uninstalled.
I defaulted the BIOS and started anew.
I was able to get it to boot at 4.4ghz @ 1.34 vcore but it shut down as soon as I started the test. Right now I am at 1.36 vcore but haven't tested it yet.
I left the vssc on default for now.
Unless someone thinks I should increase it some and maybe get a better OC...

I am going to do that and leave it running while I take a shower....


----------



## chrisnyc75

One thing that is definitely correct: if you're having trouble getting stable, set your ram back to stock "Auto" settings and work with only the cpu first. Once you get the system stable with your cpu overclock, THEN bring ram back into the equation. If you attempt to set XMP *AND* cpu overclock simultaneously you can easily end up chasing your tail trying to figure out which is unstable and which setting will fix it.

Isolate one thing at a time, and tweak it to stability. Once that one thing has proven stable, then bring the next thing into the mix, rinse and repeat.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I will again try turning off XMP but when I used the settings that were recommended my system was even more unstable.....So I will have to find the right settings for my RAM before I turn off XMP.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I tried the 4.4 at 1.36v and it didn't run for long.
What about the other settings? I have heard setting the DIGI+ current capability to %150 should help.
What do you guys think?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You're coming off as a little arrogant, can you please take it back a step?
> I have different RAM (G. Skill Trident X 2133mhz) and the settings are probably way different than yours....
> I tried what you recommended and turned off XMP and set my settings manually as you suggested, and guess what...... I got worse results. I wasn't even able to get to the splash screen! So I turned XMP back on and I am back to where I started. I have been told (and still am being told the same thing on the Asus boards) that XMP does not make ones system unstable but in fact can help stability.
> On the BSODs I am getting there are no error codes just a unhappy smiley face (I said smiley face earlier but I was mistaken) and a note saying something to the effect "there was a problem with your system and we are collecting info......". Then it suggests to look up "whea_somethingsomething" on the internet if I need more info but it goes away to fast for me to write anything down. I think it says "WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR" but I am not entirely sure. I looked it up though and it is right along the lines of hardware error.
> FYI, I call it a BSOD but it isn't the same looking as the BSODS from 98SE (last time I saw a BSOD), it is a light blue screen and the error has no numbers in it whatsoever.
> 
> FYI I have been running XMP since I built this rig and have not had any problems whatsoever and I play quite a few high end games (though my gpu limits my settings). I have also been running XMP since I started OCing and have not had any problems until I started trying to hit 4.4 which I am at now but am still unable to hit 4.5 (with or without XMP). I thought maybe you might have a point but when I disabled XMP my system "seemed" to became more unstable.


To tell you the truth, after trying to tell you something for the third time today I got a little ... yeah, tired.







(This is the reason I do not try to "help" people on OCN, nobody find what I say interesting nor "right".
Believe me, I have gotten a ton of BSOD's trying out different overclocks on my 3930K and a few on my 4930K and I have never seen what you discribe. For me, XMP profile only works with 1866Mhz RAM that is rated at 1866Mhz, therefor I use Manual mode pretty much (and it got suggested that I should use it over XMP). That is why I suggested that you should try it, that your system becomes more unstable with manual settings on DRAM than with XMP just seems weird to me, that is the opposite of the experience I have.

Why are you pushing for 4,5 Ghz? Bottlenecking three/four GPUs? Just curious.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I agree they sound very arrogant!!! And you are not trying to bench and get high scores just want a decent overclock as I understand you???
> 
> I always use xmp and can get good overclocks with it! My ram is gskill 2400 mhz and i have 64 gb kit!! And can actually achieve 4.8 at close to 1.5v. But volts are 2 high for me!!!
> 
> Personally only thing i adjust is the vcore, i know i may be leaving some mhz unused but this is the way i do it


I am just trying to help.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Wow, that went south quickly.


Okay, if you say so.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> XMP is a verified speed that your RAM is able to run at, is it technically overclocked, yes, is it done in such a way that 99% of the time using XMP is perfectly fine, yes, so getting so worked up about it isn't really helpful to the end goal.
> 
> If you want to make a suggestion it might be best to do so politely and with a friendly attitude, this group has been one of the best groups of people I have been able to work with, because even when someone knows an infinite amount more, then take the time to explain it clearly, without any sort of attitude.
> 
> That being said, in some ways you are right, there is a memory controller on the CPU, so the higher the speed the more load on it, I do not know about the voltage part, regardless, this is why I always run 1600MHz RAM, since there is NEVER a performance improvement with faster RAM, as the more relaxed timings offset the higher clock speeds.
> 
> He may be right, I simply do not have the experience in faster RAM, as there's no point. Just more load on the memory controller, and I have 32GB, so higher speeds are more difficult with more slots filled.
> 
> He may be right, default your RAM to the stock settings and see if that helps, using the manual option instead of XMP.


Friendly attitude? Okay, I am done here.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So far it seems there is no difference with AISuite3 uninstalled.
> I defaulted the BIOS and started anew.
> I was able to get it to boot at 4.4ghz @ 1.34 vcore but it shut down as soon as I started the test. Right now I am at 1.36 vcore but haven't tested it yet.
> I left the vssc on default for now.
> Unless someone thinks I should increase it some and maybe get a better OC...
> 
> I am going to do that and leave it running while I take a shower....


Good luck, hope these guys help you to achieve what you want. I'm out!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I tried the 4.4 at 1.36v and it didn't run for long.
> What about the other settings? I have heard setting the DIGI+ current capability to %150 should help.
> What do you guys think?


Mine takes 160%. The way I understand it, you aren't FORCING this current down your cpu's throat, you're just opening the gate to give it more options if it so needs. So there's little risk in this particular setting - the reports of keeping it at 130% are greatly exaggerated. Also, if you're using the offset method for vcore, you'll most likely need to raise LLC to High or Ultra High, due to the way offset functions. Here, I sort of disagree with the common mindset that "Medium" should be sufficient for most overclocking, and that anything above that is to be avoided. I like "High" - my feeling is that you don't need Intel's built-in AI to control the voltage if you're overclocking every piece of voltage manually with an Asus Rampage board. So while "High" or "Ultra High" compensate for LLC enough to cancel out the intended effect, that works just fine when you're talking about this type of "micromanaging" overclocking.

Another note from my personal experience.... my system is very sensitive to cpu power phase options. I have to set it to Extreme. If I attempt to back it down to T-probe or Standard, it crashes every time. Ymmv.

You should be able to pretty much leave the rest of it on Auto.

Note: while the above may sound, at first glance, like I'm advocating throwing caution to the wind... note that I have very high end cooling, so my system may be able to handle higher settings than the average build. Also, it's been rock solid stable for almost 2 years now, so my methods are tried & true.


----------



## reev3r

Hey, does anybody feel I was out of line in my comment, please be honest, I was simply trying to be helpful and I feel I may have been misunderstood...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Mine takes 160%. The way I understand it, you aren't FORCING this current down your cpu's throat, you're just opening the gate to give it more options if it so needs. So there's little risk in this particular setting - the reports of keeping it at 130% are greatly exaggerated. Also, if you're using the offset method for vcore, you'll most likely need to raise LLC to High or Ultra High, due to the way offset functions. Here, I sort of disagree with the common mindset that "Medium" should be sufficient for most overclocking, and that anything above that is to be avoided. I like "High" - my feeling is that you don't need Intel's built-in AI to control the voltage if you're overclocking every piece of voltage manually with an Asus Rampage board. So while "High" or "Ultra High" compensate for LLC enough to cancel out the intended effect, that works just fine when you're talking about this type of "micromanaging" overclocking.
> 
> Another note from my personal experience.... my system is very sensitive to cpu power phase options. I have to set it to Extreme. If I attempt to back it down to T-probe or Standard, it crashes every time. Ymmv.
> 
> You should be able to pretty much leave the rest of it on Auto.
> 
> Note: while the above may sound, at first glance, like I'm advocating throwing caution to the wind... note that I have very high end cooling, so my system may be able to handle higher settings than the average build. Also, it's been rock solid stable for almost 2 years now, so my methods are tried & true.


What exactly do you have set to extreme, the Extreme OV, Xtreme Tweaking, or something else?
For cooling I have a Swiftech H-240x rad and will be installing MB cooler into that loop in the next month or so.

In my last test I had it set for 4.4ghz and 1.4 vcore in x mode (nothing else changed from default) and all seemed to go well on the OCCT but I had to leave it at 40mins. When I came home the PC had restarted, so somewhere between that 40mins and the 60 it is set for it failed the test. Also while I was watching it the vcore got as high as 1.42 which I have read and been told causes CPU degradation.
So what do you guys recommend now?


----------



## Mega Man

No your fine. And I agree about the cl stuff ( and several other products and companies. )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I did not know this. Your right is is pathetic, especially for a big company like that. Where are the two companies located? It depends on what nation the offending company is in, if it is in the States they can be easily sued. You have a link to their forums?
> 
> EDIT: I just saw the post on vcsa, I will try increasing that and see if I can hit 4.5 on 1.4 vcore!
> Then look at uninstalling AIsuite3
> 
> 
> 
> Caselabs is in California, not sure where fractal and thermaltake are, and I think swiftech is German, or is that EK, maybe that's just EK...
> 
> Awesome, give it a shot, keep me updated on your progress, really excited to see how she responds to the little tweaks. I LOVE this part! So exciting to inch your way forwards using all the various settings. So exciting!
Click to expand...

IIRC tiawan quoted wrong one but TT is in tiawan


----------



## Madmaxneo

Well I just ran the OCCT test at 4.4ghz and 1.4 vcore, still in XMP and everything
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Hey, does anybody feel I was out of line in my comment, please be honest, I was simply trying to be helpful and I feel I may have been misunderstood...


Well, just grab your stuff and go. That kind of attitude will not work around here!...lol...j/k
I think you were fine and in fact maybe handled it better than I did. I could've been more tactful. The guy has some great info to share but he came across like his way is the only way etc... There are plenty of people on here who have just as good if not better OC's than his and don't go the route he has.
If there is anything I learned on here is that there are different paths to the same solution and not every path works for every chip.
I like hearing everyone's thoughts and directions and working through each of them. It is a much better learning experience for me that way.

Oh and the PC mouse does not work on my tablet as I have learned so many times in the last few minutes as I keep reaching for the PC mouse....DOH!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> ha, if only you knew how long it took me to save up for the 4930K after I bought the 4820K just to use my motherboard, and I only bought that because it was $200! I had to wait 8 months after in order to get this CPU, so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wasn't happy with a motherboard that cost me $475 with performance on par with and sometimes less than a Z97/4770K, so I don't msec up getting this one. Though I did try to avoid spending $1,000 on my mobo/processor alone, I was eventually thwarted by performance below expectations.
> 
> I could very well be mistaken, but I am pretty confident that AISuite is able to load your overclock settings at startup... At least it did with AISuite II on my Z77 board and my 3770K... I could have sworn I played with it when I first got the 4820K, as I was super excited about trying AISuite III, which I tried to ham-fist onto my Z77 rig, but never quite got it to work.. Although, it has been a year and a half or more, so I could be mistaken completely, haven't used it for that in a fair bit of time... I am neither at my computer, nor willing to destroy all I have accomplished getting AISuite and my BIOS to play nice together, so could someone let me know if this occurs just for verification's sake, I really dislike spreading the wrong information when I can avoid it.
> 
> Muchos grassyass.
> 
> EDIT: I did mean to add that I think your spot on and this one just isn't going to be a great performer though.


I didn't pay full price for my mobo/cpu because I bought them so late in their life cycle. I think I got the board for ~350 and the cpu for ~275. I could have gotten the 4930k but didn't feel like the extra 200 was worth it if memory serves. Overall I'm happy with the combo so it's all good. If it comes to it I may buy a 4930k down the road like when I replaced my Q6600 with a Q9650 to add some extra staying power. We'll see, I only really game on this rig though and of late few released or announced games interest me never mind demand better cpu performance. Next upgrade will be GFX cards as my 3x 470s are showing their age despite their OC.

AISuite II did allow for auto-applying of an OC profile on boot and going into my build I expected the same from AISuite III. I built a friend's rig using a sabertooth x79 board and used AISuite II to get the OC fleshed out in the OS and cut down on reboot times. I became so used to being able to apply that profile on boot that I was disappointed to find that feature wasn't included for RoG brand boards (at least as of November 2014).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> *OFF TOPIC*
> 
> Alright, I know many people on here have CaseLabs cases, can I get everyone who has an opinion on the current thermaltake stealing designs from caselabs, fractal design, and swiftech, to leave their thoughts (politely) on the thermaltake social media pages.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I am just so heartbroken and disappointed by this, for the most part this industry does pretty good, and is respectful of the innovations that others make, and they are then inspired to do one, or several better...
> 
> But this, this is not that... I mean, I own a caselabs case, and I encouraged my friend to get the R5, which we built in, and I can nary tell the differences between these designs. Mostly because it is a straight cookie cutter design.
> 
> I find it pathetic, and I would be ashamed to work for such a company. ASHAMED.
> 
> So, I know this is everywhere right now, but I HAD to share my thoughts, especially since CL is not some huge behemoth, they don't have hundreds of employees and engineers, it's basically two guys doing what they love, and if thermaltake steals their designs and mass produces them, then undercuts them by, who knows, 25%, it is going to make it difficult for them to continue doing what they love, and providing us with GREAT products.
> 
> Such disappointment.
> 
> rant over.


I agree with those who say that if someone buys a CL knockoff they were likely never in the market for an actual CL case anyway. I paid 500 for my case, a MM extended ascension, and personally think that, while the case labs cases look nicer, are still over priced. To get the same functionality out of a case labs case as I do my MM E.A. I'd be paying more than twice as much. To be honest, this is really how business is run. One could argue that case labs stole MM's and Lian Li's designs and ended up with their cases. Competition is designed to lower product costs so anyone that supports AMD making more powerful cards to drive down Nvidia's prices kind of has to support TT offering CL style cases at a lower cost.

Is it the most ethical route? Of course not. Would I buy a CL knockoff from TT? Perhaps. And while I respect that CL is an american company making high quality cases they're far too expensive for me considering they're only offering improved looks over what I have now. That's where I fall. Then again I'm of the mind that once you buy one really big case a second is just silly unless you're building a separate rig in it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Mine takes 160%. The way I understand it, you aren't FORCING this current down your cpu's throat, you're just opening the gate to give it more options if it so needs. So there's little risk in this particular setting - the reports of keeping it at 130% are greatly exaggerated. Also, if you're using the offset method for vcore, you'll most likely need to raise LLC to High or Ultra High, due to the way offset functions. Here, I sort of disagree with the common mindset that "Medium" should be sufficient for most overclocking, and that anything above that is to be avoided. I like "High" - my feeling is that you don't need Intel's built-in AI to control the voltage if you're overclocking every piece of voltage manually with an Asus Rampage board. So while "High" or "Ultra High" compensate for LLC enough to cancel out the intended effect, that works just fine when you're talking about this type of "micromanaging" overclocking.
> 
> Another note from my personal experience.... my system is very sensitive to cpu power phase options. I have to set it to Extreme. If I attempt to back it down to T-probe or Standard, it crashes every time. Ymmv.
> 
> You should be able to pretty much leave the rest of it on Auto.
> 
> 
> 
> *Note: while the above may sound, at first glance, like I'm advocating throwing caution to the wind... note that I have very high end cooling, so my system may be able to handle higher settings than the average build.* Also, it's been rock solid stable for almost 2 years now, so my methods are tried & true.


He's right. And I wouldn't run such high settings unless you're cooling the VRMs of the board really well be it with water or really _really_ good air flow over the stock heatsink assembly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Hey, does anybody feel I was out of line in my comment, please be honest, I was simply trying to be helpful and I feel I may have been misunderstood...


I thought you handled it well; I thought he was out of line with his first line too. I think one has to understand, and I mean no offense to those who fall into this category, that when helping newbies OC one has to go into it with a certain expectation that they won't get everything you say the first couple times. Some of us forget how overwhelming all this can be. Especially with the "Core iX" family. LGA 775 was much simpler to OC in comparison as there were far fewer options. Again, that isn't an insult to those in this thread who are newbies, just an observation from someone who is also still fairly new to OC'ing on "Core i" chips.

As helpers we also have to remember that some folks learn differently. I like to read a ton of guides then ask about specifics I'm fuzzy on. Other's may need to ask just what they feel are the basics in order to not get confused from too much info too early, which can be just as bad as too little.

*edited for spelling mistakes*


----------



## wjturner78

hey guys sorry i havent been on in a while 3 kids under age 4 and im trying to finish my build for quakecon. @reev3r i hope your feeling better dude take care of yourself damnit!!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1543515/sponsored-the-phoenix-rog-rve-5960x-40-tb-1080mm-rad-space-enthoo-primo

final wip photos after this its tear down for final paint and assembly with "white glove" treatment


Spoiler: Rear!













Spoiler: Front without door!













Spoiler: front with door!


----------



## SpecTRe-X

That RoG (Asus?) symbol could be a bit smaller or darker I think. It kind of overpowers the rest of the visuals in my opinion. And that thing must weigh a ton with all those drives in there!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> That RoG (Asus?) symbol could be a bit smaller or darker I think. It kind of overpowers the rest of the visuals in my opinion. And that thing must weigh a ton with all those drives in there!


the rog logo lights up from behind, i originally had it smaller and darker and everyone said to change it lol.... it weighs a ton I don't know how much but it's HEAVY


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> the rog logo lights up from behind, i originally had it smaller and darker and everyone said to change it lol.... it weighs a ton I don't know how much but it's HEAVY


It looks pretty cool, how about some pics with it all lit up and running?

Back to my OC attempts..
I was able to run OCCT for like 90 mins before I finally shut it down. I consider that stable enough for now. The highest the temps reached were low 60's.
I am only at 4.3 ghz with a 1.34 vcore.
I tried 4.4ghz at 1.4 vcore but the PC restarted after like 40 mins.... and that is with the vccsa at 1.2
And this is both with and without XMP enabled.

I am thinking my goal of a stable 4.6ghz is not possible with this chip, but I haven't tried everything.

What is my next step for more stability?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It looks pretty cool, how about some pics with it all lit up and running?
> 
> Back to my OC attempts..
> I was able to run OCCT for like 90 mins before I finally shut it down. I consider that stable enough for now. The highest the temps reached were low 60's.
> I am only at 4.3 ghz with a 1.34 vcore.
> I tried 4.4ghz at 1.4 vcore but the PC restarted after like 40 mins.... and that is with the vccsa at 1.2
> And this is both with and without XMP enabled.
> 
> I am thinking my goal of a stable 4.6ghz is not possible with this chip, but I haven't tried everything.
> 
> What is my next step for more stability?


Sorry to tell you this and I am sure some people on here will have more advise on how to hit it but to me it looks like you lost the Silicone Lottery


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Yeah, Seross has it right I think. You didn't get a good overclocker. You could always set up for phase and run with higher voltages beyond safe limits but you'd still run the risk of killing your chip.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Then uninstalling AI Suite 3 made no difference. I will go about re-installing that tomorrow.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> *OFF TOPIC*
> 
> Alright, I know many people on here have CaseLabs cases, can I get everyone who has an opinion on the current thermaltake stealing designs from caselabs, fractal design, and swiftech, to leave their thoughts (politely) on the thermaltake social media pages.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I am just so heartbroken and disappointed by this, for the most part this industry does pretty good, and is respectful of the innovations that others make, and they are then inspired to do one, or several better...
> 
> But this, this is not that... I mean, I own a caselabs case, and I encouraged my friend to get the R5, which we built in, and I can nary tell the differences between these designs. Mostly because it is a straight cookie cutter design.
> 
> I find it pathetic, and I would be ashamed to work for such a company. ASHAMED.
> 
> So, I know this is everywhere right now, but I HAD to share my thoughts, especially since CL is not some huge behemoth, they don't have hundreds of employees and engineers, it's basically two guys doing what they love, and if thermaltake steals their designs and mass produces them, then undercuts them by, who knows, 25%, it is going to make it difficult for them to continue doing what they love, and providing us with GREAT products.
> 
> Such disappointment.
> 
> rant over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with those who say that if someone buys a CL knockoff they were likely never in the market for an actual CL case anyway. I paid 500 for my case, a MM extended ascension, and personally think that, while the case labs cases look nicer, are still over priced. To get the same functionality out of a case labs case as I do my MM E.A. I'd be paying more than twice as much. To be honest, this is really how business is run. One could argue that case labs stole MM's and Lian Li's designs and ended up with their cases. Competition is designed to lower product costs so anyone that supports AMD making more powerful cards to drive down Nvidia's prices kind of has to support TT offering CL style cases at a lower cost.
> 
> Is it the most ethical route? Of course not. Would I buy a CL knockoff from TT? Perhaps. And while I respect that CL is an american company making high quality cases they're far too expensive for me considering they're only offering improved looks over what I have now. That's where I fall. Then again I'm of the mind that once you buy one really big case a second is just silly unless you're building a separate rig in it.
Click to expand...

can i ask for an example of how CL is anything like MM? i have yet to see one similarity unless you consider " made of AL" one ? or maybe " has 2 mobos "?

did you know that CL has been around for a long time they just make corporate chassis?
** this is just a debate and if you cant take it, or take things personally please move along as nothing beyond this point is nessisarrily aimed at you, but just what you said and the people who say it in general **
as to your argument of people wouldnt of bought CL cases are buying tt cases -- i am so sick of this excuse, i hear it in relation to movies/video games/ music ect, and all it is is an excuse showing the moral degradation of our community i know poor college students who save up for months to own a case, point is if you want something enough you can make it happen,. if you dont then you obviously dont, as to the its ok because they wouldnt of bought it anyway, that is just a lame attempt to passify the fact that theft was done.
now again going back to MM cases, modularity/ cube/rectangle, ect any of those in and of itself is not theft, as they are generalized characteristics , what cl is mad about is a CLONE a clone they did not complain they were going to lose money they complained because that is their intellectual property they are not afraid of losing money they just dont want to be ripped off
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It looks pretty cool, how about some pics with it all lit up and running?
> 
> Back to my OC attempts..
> I was able to run OCCT for like 90 mins before I finally shut it down. I consider that stable enough for now. The highest the temps reached were low 60's.
> I am only at 4.3 ghz with a 1.34 vcore.
> I tried 4.4ghz at 1.4 vcore but the PC restarted after like 40 mins.... and that is with the vccsa at 1.2
> And this is both with and without XMP enabled.
> 
> I am thinking my goal of a stable 4.6ghz is not possible with this chip, but I haven't tried everything.
> 
> What is my next step for more stability?
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to tell you this and I am sure some people on here will have more advise on how to hit it but to me it looks like you lost the Silicone Lottery
Click to expand...

'

agreed


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> can i ask for an example of how CL is anything like MM? i have yet to see one similarity unless you consider " made of AL" one ? or maybe " has 2 mobos "?
> 
> did you know that CL has been around for a long time they just make corporate chassis?
> ** this is just a debate and if you cant take it, or take things personally please move along as nothing beyond this point is nessisarrily aimed at you, but just what you said and the people who say it in general **
> as to your argument of people wouldnt of bought CL cases are buying tt cases -- i am so sick of this excuse, i hear it in relation to movies/video games/ music ect, and all it is is an excuse showing the moral degradation of our community i know poor college students who save up for months to own a case, point is if you want something enough you can make it happen,. if you dont then you obviously dont, as to the its ok because they wouldnt of bought it anyway, that is just a lame attempt to passify the fact that theft was done.
> now again going back to MM cases, modularity/ cube/rectangle, ect any of those in and of itself is not theft, as they are generalized characteristics , what cl is mad about is a CLONE a clone they did not complain they were going to lose money they complained because that is their intellectual property they are not afraid of losing money they just dont want to be ripped off
> '
> 
> agreed


I'm all for a good debate, look forward to them actually!









As far as CL being like MM it's really about the function of their cases. They're all designed to be modular, easily expandable, and cubes (more or less). On top of that they're both boutique items, to a point, due to their prices. Especially CL since even their smaller offerings cost a good deal more than a standard retail case you can get from microcenter or such while still only offering the same features as the retail case. You could argue that they might look better and are modular, making them easy to expand compared to the retail case, but if one isn't going to exploit that modular feature in any meaningful sense the cheaper retail case would be the way to go in my opinion.

As far as the TT v CL issue: While the same argument can be applied to movies, game, and music it is harder to make it sounds reasonable for those. Games may be the only exception in that if one pirates a game to test it out, decides if it fits their taste or not, then either buys it or deletes it. That is a legitimate argument considering companies no longer release playable demos yet still expect you to risk buying something you cant return (at least in terms of physical copies, digital distribution seems to be catching on with origin's and Gog's return policies).

The point I was making is that just because someone wants something doesn't mean they think it is worth what someone wants them to pay for it. Do CL cases look nice? Yes, definitely. Do I think something comparable to my MM E.A. is worth the increased cost? No, especially considering I'd have to paint another case all over again.

This is where TT comes in because people who don't feel they can justify an ~$800 case after all the required accessory items will likely be far more willing to part with ~$300 for something almost the same. I don't really buy into your point about CL not being mad about potentially lost income. I wouldn't care if someone copied my idea so long as they weren't diverting income that would have otherwise been mine. IP, in most cases, is an asset one uses to make money in one way or another, so I think this is exactly about the money.

As far as CL's recourse, their only real option is to find a way to offer competitive pricing or a product that potential consumers feel warrants the hefty price tag compared to other options. If I didn't already own a MM E.A. I'd consider CL, but I would still have trouble justifying one of their products when I can get the same functionality for less money. The Aesthetic aspect is the compromise, of course, as I'm sure we can agree that CL cases have a more finished look compared to MM cases. That's the very reason I won't buy one now; the aesthetic improvement doesn't warrant the cost.

On the whole it is actually real smart business. TT let another company take all the risk, flesh out all the issues, build a base, and then they moved in and copied that product. The added benefit here is that because of all these people being so mad over it TT is actually even getting free publicity too. So all those people that wanted a CL case are going to find out they can get it but for a fraction of the cost.

Hopefully that all makes sense, it's getting late and I'm getting tired.


----------



## Mega Man

sorry but i think i will just end it now, i can see that we will have no common ground, esp on the video game trials and tt vs cl, cl makes a case, sorry MM does not own the cubed case and they are not similar beyond the basics has a mobo which is either upright, upsidedown or sideways and fan holes. tt cloned the CL case, there is far more then 1or 2 similarities, it is actually easier to list all the ways they are different and i could make an easy case on the biggest difference is the label


----------



## reev3r

First thing, does anybody on here happen to have a G1 Gaming 970 from Gigabytes that they hate the blue LED on? Basically I bought the necessary LED's to change it to white, in order to save money I got a strip of 50 of them for about the same price as buying a few of the LED's alone and the cost of shipping.

Anyhow, I am giving them away not for those interested... All I ask is a small donation towards shipping, only because depending on the number I have to ship, the cost incurred could quickly get expensive.

HERE is the link to my freebies listing.

Personally, I feel that CL saw what MM was doing, and took the general concept and added their own twist to it.

I feel that, as many people know, there are only so many ways to make a cube to fit crap into, but there is a difference between using an example for inspiration, or a starting point, and copying it exactly. I mean, I have never see anything from CL that is indistinguishable from a MM case. I literally can't tell the difference between the two R5 cases (the original and the knockoff). I used to love TT, and then when I saw how they copied the swiftech block I was really disappointed when I found out it wasn't a rebrand or licensed product, but a rip-off...

Personally, I left several messages for TT, politely expressing my innate dissatisfaction with their approach to blatantly steal these designs. I think it is incredibly pathetic, and shows me that they are not a company I would ever support, I am the type that I would rather see a company take a risk and fail miserably at an endeavor than to just carbon copy something someone else put their heart and soul into designing. It really makes me sad, literally sad inside.

While at the very same time, I am bitter, disappointed, and angry that someone in this industry, perhaps the most cobsistently innovative industry in history, take a HUGE step backwards and say, well, we already developed a lot of products, let's just copy other companies designs from now, we're all tapped out...

@Madmaxneo

I refuse to accept that your rig is clocking so low, so if you have some time tomorrow, either before about 13:00 CST (1PM), or after around 14:30 CST (2:30PM). I will hop on my computer and walk you through the BIOS, either over the phone or via Skype or something. Whatever you feel most comfortable with.

I really don't believe that it is that bad of a chip, and I think we are just missing a crucial setting, like some of the spread spectrum, LLC, current capability, frequencies.

****, I totally forgot, current capability! You need to crank that up a bunch, push it up to like 150% to start, kick up the load line calibration as well, set it to high to begin with, I also use optimized power phase control, no SST (spread spectrum)...

So, I know it is late, but if you are up to it now we can get in there and start cranking her up with the REAL settings.

I did miss some of the conversations, I did my best to skin them though...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> I'm all for a good debate, look forward to them actually!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as CL being like MM it's really about the function of their cases. They're all designed to be modular, easily expandable, and cubes (more or less). On top of that they're both boutique items, to a point, due to their prices. Especially CL since even their smaller offerings cost a good deal more than a standard retail case you can get from microcenter or such while still only offering the same features as the retail case. You could argue that they might look better and are modular, making them easy to expand compared to the retail case, but if one isn't going to exploit that modular feature in any meaningful sense the cheaper retail case would be the way to go in my opinion.
> 
> As far as the TT v CL issue: While the same argument can be applied to movies, game, and music it is harder to make it sounds reasonable for those. Games may be the only exception in that if one pirates a game to test it out, decides if it fits their taste or not, then either buys it or deletes it. That is a legitimate argument considering companies no longer release playable demos yet still expect you to risk buying something you cant return (at least in terms of physical copies, digital distribution seems to be catching on with origin's and Gog's return policies).
> 
> The point I was making is that just because someone wants something doesn't mean they think it is worth what someone wants them to pay for it. Do CL cases look nice? Yes, definitely. Do I think something comparable to my MM E.A. is worth the increased cost? No, especially considering I'd have to paint another case all over again.
> 
> This is where TT comes in because people who don't feel they can justify an ~$800 case after all the required accessory items will likely be far more willing to part with ~$300 for something almost the same. I don't really buy into your point about CL not being mad about potentially lost income. I wouldn't care if someone copied my idea so long as they weren't diverting income that would have otherwise been mine. IP, in most cases, is an asset one uses to make money in one way or another, so I think this is exactly about the money.
> 
> As far as CL's recourse, their only real option is to find a way to offer competitive pricing or a product that potential consumers feel warrants the hefty price tag compared to other options. If I didn't already own a MM E.A. I'd consider CL, but I would still have trouble justifying one of their products when I can get the same functionality for less money. The Aesthetic aspect is the compromise, of course, as I'm sure we can agree that CL cases have a more finished look compared to MM cases. That's the very reason I won't buy one now; the aesthetic improvement doesn't warrant the cost.
> 
> On the whole it is actually real smart business. TT let another company take all the risk, flesh out all the issues, build a base, and then they moved in and copied that product. The added benefit here is that because of all these people being so mad over it TT is actually even getting free publicity too. So all those people that wanted a CL case are going to find out they can get it but for a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Hopefully that all makes sense, it's getting late and I'm getting tired.


I feel like there might be more to this than you might be seeing... CaseLabs is a team of only a few people, making a relatively small number of cases a month, TT on the other hand has scale on their side, they can buy in huge bulk, orders of magnitude more than CaseLabs, and everything would be fully automated, further reducing costs. It really is just no practical to think that CL can reduce the cost and still make money, despite what you might think, their margins probably aren't all that high, no compared to the margins that TT sees on their products... So then we get to another issue...

If it costs CL $400 to make your $500 case, while it costs TT $150 to make a $350 case, who should be lowering their prices? You have to consider the maths or scale on this, and it seems to me that people aren't. That being said, I am just hazarding guesses based on things like the cost of sheet aluminum, and powder coating, and QA, things done by a human at CL, while much of that will be automated at TT...

Once you scale up to a certain point, things become exponentially less expensive. It's like buying food at Shopco vs a gas station, I can get a 5 gallon jar of pickles for $5 at shopco, at a gas station, a single pickle costs $1.50... Just another thing to consider in that regard.

I really feel that TT has just become desperate. I mean, when is the last time anybody did a review of a TT product that people were excited about, when is the last time you wanted a TT product? They are in a bind, and their solution is to save money on R&D, and be dishonest and immoral, and just steal ideas.

If this were a movie, TT would be the bad guy with a bad accent and two henchmen, and CL would be the clever hero, with few resources, but the ability to think his way out of the villains laser dog tooth biting trap of ouch...


----------



## reev3r

I said something there and it hit a point I neglected to expand upon.

They stole the designs. It is a well documented course of them doing so, even down to buying caselabs cases.

So, imagine you own a company, and you have built a product that is your livelihood, you have a product you are proud of, spent years perfecting, and taking a huge personal and financial risk to bring to market, and people like it. Now imagine that someone else copied it exactly, and started selling it for less because you have 5 employees in a small warehouse, while this other company has millions of dollars at their disposal and hundreds of employees, I have a difficult time believeing that your 'ovjective' attitude would translate so well.

I am confident you would not be happy about it. Especially if you know you are providing a product at a profit margin that makes it worth your time, but not a ridiculous amount, and then the other guy undercuts you by half simply because they have more money and employees, and they can buy in bulk and automate everything.

An example for me, I have a temperature display I am trying to finalize and market, and the cost of completion is becoming significantly higher than I had planned, so do I eat the cost and sell it for what I told everyone I expected the cost to be, or do I tell them that it isvgpibg to cost a bit more than expected...? On top if that, I plan to offer the source code for free, so that anybody with the hardware experience can make it themselves and save money, but that means someone could easily copy the code that has taken me months to complete, and a good hit of money to have programmed in the ways I couldnt, and they could make an identical product for cheaper and undercut me... I would be pretty pissed. Here I am trying to help others save money by making the source free so they can build it themselves, and some jerk comes along and uses it for commercial gain... It's the exact same concept, except that the stolen design is a case vs software, because once my software is freely available, then it effectively becomes the same as a case that came be quantified....


----------



## doctakedooty

I will say this about the caelabs thing companys steal ideas all the time to attract customers prime example everyone knows.... Anyone shopped for a new car... I am sure they have you see all these different brands but honestly all the bodys are prety much the same style. Now with that said i am a corsair case person.. I would love a caselabs case because of there quality but i dont like the industrial look if they made a case that looked elegent like the obsidean cases with i would be all over them. I just dont orefer the industrial look and i like the less is more and keep with sleek styling with performance i dont think you should have to skip on one to have the other and i think thats why the 900d does so well is it combines both. If corsair could get there quality back to where it used to be they would be amazing cases and i dont care if i had to pay a little more for it to have a few more features and better quality. I know they had a target price for a target buyers. Plus it has to somewhat match my wifes decor for me to talk her into letting me buy it.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Not sure I caught everything that transpired in the 5 pages of back-and-forth on this, but fwiw try increasing vcssa before vcore. In my experience, I could throw vcore at my chip until it melted, but with less than 1.2v vcssa it was NEVER getting stable. Now I give it 1.2v vcssa, and it's perfectly stable at 4.7ghz.
> 
> Maximum VCCSA voltage on air? BIOS reads Max 1.700v? Is 1.35v safe?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Mine takes 160%. The way I understand it, you aren't FORCING this current down your cpu's throat, you're just opening the gate to give it more options if it so needs. So there's little risk in this particular setting - the reports of keeping it at 130% are greatly exaggerated. Also, if you're using the offset method for vcore, you'll most likely need to raise LLC to High or Ultra High, due to the way offset functions. Here, I sort of disagree with the common mindset that "Medium" should be sufficient for most overclocking, and that anything above that is to be avoided. I like "High" - my feeling is that you don't need Intel's built-in AI to control the voltage if you're overclocking every piece of voltage manually with an Asus Rampage board. So while "High" or "Ultra High" compensate for LLC enough to cancel out the intended effect, that works just fine when you're talking about this type of "micromanaging" overclocking.
> 
> Another note from my personal experience.... my system is very sensitive to cpu power phase options. I have to set it to Extreme. If I attempt to back it down to T-probe or Standard, it crashes every time. Ymmv.
> 
> You should be able to pretty much leave the rest of it on Auto.
> 
> Note: while the above may sound, at first glance, like I'm advocating throwing caution to the wind... note that I have very high end cooling, so my system may be able to handle higher settings than the average build. Also, it's been rock solid stable for almost 2 years now, so my methods are tried & true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not trying to argue the point from what I have read and limited experience the higher the LLC the higher the CPU temps. On air NH-D14 for a 4.4 Ghz O.C. V-core 1.30v LLC Medium at 140 percent works well and reduces the temps on the cpu. Max 80c P95 24 hours. NH-D14 Heat Sink.
> 
> Again trying to learn. Doesn't increasing the LLC from Medium to High and above 140 percent increase the temps on the VRMs, Socket will transfer the heat to the CPU is this back words? Does increasing the LLC effect the south bridge temps? Before had the LLC at High at 170 Percent could not pass P95 due to high CPU Temps bumping 92c.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Hey, does anybody feel I was out of line in my comment, please be honest, I was simply trying to be helpful and I feel I may have been misunderstood...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No sir do not think you where out of line at all. Have read many of your post.
Click to expand...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> First thing, does anybody on here happen to have a G1 Gaming 970 from Gigabytes that they hate the blue LED on? Basically I bought the necessary LED's to change it to white, in order to save money I got a strip of 50 of them for about the same price as buying a few of the LED's alone and the cost of shipping.
> 
> Anyhow, I am giving them away not for those interested... All I ask is a small donation towards shipping, only because depending on the number I have to ship, the cost incurred could quickly get expensive.
> 
> HERE is the link to my freebies listing.
> 
> Personally, I feel that CL saw what MM was doing, and took the general concept and added their own twist to it.
> 
> I feel that, as many people know, there are only so many ways to make a cube to fit crap into, but there is a difference between using an example for inspiration, or a starting point, and copying it exactly. I mean, I have never see anything from CL that is indistinguishable from a MM case. I literally can't tell the difference between the two R5 cases (the original and the knockoff). I used to love TT, and then when I saw how they copied the swiftech block I was really disappointed when I found out it wasn't a rebrand or licensed product, but a rip-off...
> 
> Personally, I left several messages for TT, politely expressing my innate dissatisfaction with their approach to blatantly steal these designs. I think it is incredibly pathetic, and shows me that they are not a company I would ever support, I am the type that I would rather see a company take a risk and fail miserably at an endeavor than to just carbon copy something someone else put their heart and soul into designing. It really makes me sad, literally sad inside.
> 
> While at the very same time, I am bitter, disappointed, and angry that someone in this industry, perhaps the most cobsistently innovative industry in history, take a HUGE step backwards and say, well, we already developed a lot of products, let's just copy other companies designs from now, we're all tapped out...
> 
> @Madmaxneo
> 
> I refuse to accept that your rig is clocking so low, so if you have some time tomorrow, either before about 13:00 CST (1PM), or after around 14:30 CST (2:30PM). I will hop on my computer and walk you through the BIOS, either over the phone or via Skype or something. Whatever you feel most comfortable with.
> 
> I really don't believe that it is that bad of a chip, and I think we are just missing a crucial setting, like some of the spread spectrum, LLC, current capability, frequencies.
> 
> ****, I totally forgot, current capability! You need to crank that up a bunch, push it up to like 150% to start, kick up the load line calibration as well, set it to high to begin with, I also use optimized power phase control, no SST (spread spectrum)...
> 
> So, I know it is late, but if you are up to it now we can get in there and start cranking her up with the REAL settings.
> 
> I did miss some of the conversations, I did my best to skin them though...


I have already boosted the current capability up, as advice from others. But I am not sure where to find things like load line caibration, optimized power phase control, and no SST. I will poke around in the bios and see what I can find.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Doesn't increasing the LLC from Medium to High and above 140 percent increase the temps on the VRMs, Socket will transfer the heat to the CPU is this back words? Does increasing the LLC effect the south bridge temps? Before had the LLC at High at 170 Percent could not pass P95 due to high CPU Temps bumping 92c..


Sort of. Load Line Calibration has been explained quite brilliantly by Raja on the rog forum. It's been awhile since I've looked at it, but iirc LLC basically moves the mid-point between idle voltage and load voltage to compress the difference between the two. The higher LLC you use, the less this effect is applied. My point was that if you're using a Rampage board to set every minute detail of voltage and power delivery, why do you care about load line calibration to begin with? It's actually working against your overclock by putting a cap on load voltage.

That said, EVERYTHING is going to be limited by temperatures. If your system was pushing 92c+ at High LLC, then you absolutely need to back it down... or lower your oc. Or get better cooling. Hence, my disclaimer before that I have very high end custom watercooling, so my system has no problem dissipating the heat from Ultra High LLC.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@reev3r
I set my CPU load line calibration to high and the CPU current capability was already set to 150%, but the CPU power phase control is set to extreme. It switches to that automatically when I set the current capability to 150%, and will not let me change it. I do not know where to find the spread spectrum (SST)....

EDIT I found the CPU spread spectrum but it only has options for enable/, disable, and auto. Is it safe to assume you want me to disable that?


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry but i think i will just end it now, i can see that we will have no common ground, esp on the video game trials and tt vs cl, cl makes a case, sorry MM does not own the cubed case and they are not similar beyond the basics has a mobo which is either upright, upsidedown or sideways and fan holes. tt cloned the CL case, there is far more then 1or 2 similarities, it is actually easier to list all the ways they are different and i could make an easy case on the biggest difference is the label


I didn't realize common ground was a prerequisite to having a debate with you. To be honest, and I don't intend this as an insult, I see this as "I have no valid rebuttal so I'm going home". CL and MM have the same functionality, they just provide it in different ways and price points.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First thing, does anybody on here happen to have a G1 Gaming 970 from Gigabytes that they hate the blue LED on? Basically I bought the necessary LED's to change it to white, in order to save money I got a strip of 50 of them for about the same price as buying a few of the LED's alone and the cost of shipping.
> 
> Anyhow, I am giving them away not for those interested... All I ask is a small donation towards shipping, only because depending on the number I have to ship, the cost incurred could quickly get expensive.
> 
> HERE is the link to my freebies listing.
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I feel that CL saw what MM was doing, and took the general concept and added their own twist to it.
> 
> I feel that, as many people know, there are only so many ways to make a cube to fit crap into, but there is a difference between using an example for inspiration, or a starting point, and copying it exactly. I mean, I have never see anything from CL that is indistinguishable from a MM case. I literally can't tell the difference between the two R5 cases (the original and the knockoff). I used to love TT, and then when I saw how they copied the swiftech block I was really disappointed when I found out it wasn't a rebrand or licensed product, but a rip-off...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I left several messages for TT, politely expressing my innate dissatisfaction with their approach to blatantly steal these designs. I think it is incredibly pathetic, and shows me that they are not a company I would ever support, I am the type that I would rather see a company take a risk and fail miserably at an endeavor than to just carbon copy something someone else put their heart and soul into designing. It really makes me sad, literally sad inside.
> 
> While at the very same time, I am bitter, disappointed, and angry that someone in this industry, perhaps the most cobsistently innovative industry in history, take a HUGE step backwards and say, well, we already developed a lot of products, let's just copy other companies designs from now, we're all tapped out...


I'm saying that CL copied MM or Lian Li, I'm saying they took the designs and added certain structural aspects to them and ended up with CL cases. The main differences between MM and CL are rather small despite what Mega says. MM uses direct mount and has no facade plates; CL has facade plates (panels that cover the structural cube frame/assmbly) and indirect mounting via brackets (i.e. radiator mount brackets). That's about it, because of those differences you get a more aesthetic case with the same essential functionality. Arguably the CL is more flexible than the MM design but you also pay more in the long run for that flexibility.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like there might be more to this than you might be seeing... CaseLabs is a team of only a few people, making a relatively small number of cases a month, TT on the other hand has scale on their side, they can buy in huge bulk, orders of magnitude more than CaseLabs, and everything would be fully automated, further reducing costs. It really is just no practical to think that CL can reduce the cost and still make money, despite what you might think, their margins probably aren't all that high, no compared to the margins that TT sees on their products... So then we get to another issue...
> 
> If it costs CL $400 to make your $500 case, while it costs TT $150 to make a $350 case, who should be lowering their prices? You have to consider the maths or scale on this, and it seems to me that people aren't. That being said, I am just hazarding guesses based on things like the cost of sheet aluminum, and powder coating, and QA, things done by a human at CL, while much of that will be automated at TT...
> 
> Once you scale up to a certain point, things become exponentially less expensive. It's like buying food at Shopco vs a gas station, I can get a 5 gallon jar of pickles for $5 at shopco, at a gas station, a single pickle costs $1.50... Just another thing to consider in that regard.
> 
> I really feel that TT has just become desperate. I mean, when is the last time anybody did a review of a TT product that people were excited about, when is the last time you wanted a TT product? They are in a bind, and their solution is to save money on R&D, and be dishonest and immoral, and just steal ideas.
> 
> If this were a movie, TT would be the bad guy with a bad accent and two henchmen, and CL would be the clever hero, with few resources, but the ability to think his way out of the villains laser dog tooth biting trap of ouch...


I'm not the type of user who is building all kinds of systems so this may not apply to me. For example I'm not always watching for the latest hardware or hottest/most popular product launch. I buy something for my rig for 2 reasons (aside from the small cosmetic items here and there); 1) something broke/failed/stopped working or 2) the performance no longer meets my desired/required minimum. So I don't typically hear about hardware launches in general anyway outside of gfx cards and cpu sockets.

I can appreciate the scale aspect but it's because CL is a niche product line that they can't scale up and lower prices. If I were running a business like that I'd look into partnering or selling to a larger company that has the capitol to make such thins possible while also bringing my products out the the niche corner of the industry.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I said something there and it hit a point I neglected to expand upon.
> 
> They stole the designs. It is a well documented course of them doing so, even down to buying caselabs cases.
> 
> So, imagine you own a company, and you have built a product that is your livelihood, you have a product you are proud of, spent years perfecting, and taking a huge personal and financial risk to bring to market, and people like it. Now imagine that someone else copied it exactly, and started selling it for less because you have 5 employees in a small warehouse, while this other company has millions of dollars at their disposal and hundreds of employees, I have a difficult time believing that your 'objective' attitude would translate so well.
> 
> I am confident you would not be happy about it. Especially if you know you are providing a product at a profit margin that makes it worth your time, but not a ridiculous amount, and then the other guy undercuts you by half simply because they have more money and employees, and they can buy in bulk and automate everything.
> 
> An example for me, I have a temperature display I am trying to finalize and market, and the cost of completion is becoming significantly higher than I had planned, so do I eat the cost and sell it for what I told everyone I expected the cost to be, or do I tell them that it going to cost a bit more than expected...? On top if that, I plan to offer the source code for free, so that anybody with the hardware experience can make it themselves and save money, but that means someone could easily copy the code that has taken me months to complete, and a good hit of money to have programmed in the ways I couldn't, and they could make an identical product for cheaper and undercut me... I would be pretty pissed. Here I am trying to help others save money by making the source free so they can build it themselves, and some jerk comes along and uses it for commercial gain... It's the exact same concept, except that the stolen design is a case vs software, because once my software is freely available, then it effectively becomes the same as a case that came be quantified....


My objective attitude likely wouldn't translate perfectly but it would translate completely enough for me to realize that my passed success relied on competing with someone like MM and not myself (the basic result of TT cloning CL cases). Having realized that I would then set about finding a way to keep my product viable, whether that means expanding and risking bankruptcy or looking for another company to partner with who could bring me more into the mainstream case market. The possibility of closing up my consumer end shop and going back to corporate/industrial offerings would also be open (as someone pointed out they offered professional cases iirc).

The main selling point for your temp monitor is that you don't really have competition that I can see. If you did you likely wouldn't have made this anyway from what I recall you saying because your personal need (and direct motivation) would have been met. On top of that from what you said your only real goal is to recoup your expenses of development so what people do once you've done such, while not being honest or moral/ethical, is beyond the initial concern of your goals. At this point you can afford to increase costs to cover cost of production but run into your own ethical problem when dealing with people who already voiced desire for one while it was at the lower price point. You could hope they would understand and charge then at cost or you could say "they agreed before the cost went up, I'll give them the original price". Both are the right stance and the resulting outcome from taking either route might surprise you.

Personally I wouldn't buy what you're going to be offering from anyone else. Though that is only because I like you as a person and have already committed to buying one from you. If I didn't know you I'd likely go with the most cost effective offering to me. Keep in mind that I'm not arguing the ethics of these actions, they aren't ethical at all. I'm simply saying that TT is offering direct competition, regardless of form, and CL will now have to adapt to survive; which is the basis of a free market. If people decide that CL products are still worth their cost despite TT offering the same thing at a lower price than that's fine (economically speaking) if people decide it isn't and go with TT's offerings that's fine too (again for the end user and from an economic standpoint).

Let me know if I missed anything.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @reev3r
> I set my CPU load line calibration to high and the CPU current capability was already set to 150%, but the CPU power phase control is set to extreme. It switches to that automatically when I set the current capability to 150%, and will not let me change it. I do not know where to find the spread spectrum (SST)....
> 
> EDIT I found the CPU spread spectrum but it only has options for enable/, disable, and auto. Is it safe to assume you want me to disable that?


Yes, disable CPU Spread Spectrum.

Honestly, that's probably the first thing you should've done before you ever even booted to Windows. No disrespect intended, but it doesn't seem as though you're going about this very methodically. At this point you're kinda just "throwing settings at the wall and seeing what sticks". You need to start at step 1 and methodically go through the steps to get to a good stable overclock. I recommend going back to the link below, getting familiar with all of the settings, and then F5 back to stock and going through the process 1 step at a time.

http://rog.asus.com/46212011/rampage-motherboards/rampage-iv-extreme-uefi-bios-guide-for-overclocking-2/


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yes, disable CPU Spread Spectrum.
> 
> Honestly, that's probably the first thing you should've done before you ever even booted to Windows. No disrespect intended, but it doesn't seem as though you're going about this very methodically. At this point you're kinda just "throwing settings at the wall and seeing what sticks". You need to start at step 1 and methodically go through the steps to get to a good stable overclock. I recommend going back to the link below, getting familiar with all of the settings, and then F5 back to stock and going through the process 1 step at a time.
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/46212011/rampage-motherboards/rampage-iv-extreme-uefi-bios-guide-for-overclocking-2/


That's the first time I have seen that guide.
I was using a different guide on the Asus forums.
Someone on there was helping and never mentioned that guide.
Right now with changing the settings mentioned above I am able to so do 23 mins and still counting with 4.4ghz and 1.36 vocore. which is way better than before. I did try 4.5ghz at 1.4 vcore but it promptly rebooted as soon as I started the test.
I am going to let this test run for an hour total then I will look into that link you gave.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Update. I was able to run OCCT for an hour with no problems. Again I am 4.4ghz @ 1.36 vcore.
I also read through that guide and though more than half is dedicated to OCing RAM (which I am not interested in) there was some good stuff in there. I learned what each setting means. But I am still not sure how to apply any of that info into my OCing attemps.
I am going to attempt 4.4ghz @ 1,34 vcore now.

Once I get that done my goal (if possible) is to reach 4.6 or 4.7ghz.
And if it is possible I would like to finally back it down to a much lower setting then have it only to hit my max stable (relative) OC with turbo.

If that isn't possible to do with turbo; Is there a way to save and change the OC settings with either using the AI suite or the OC panel in non extreme mode?
Does that seem feasible?


----------



## Kimir

In TurboV Core you can save profile, I use that when I'm lazy and want to switch from daily to bench OC.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> In TurboV Core you can save profile, I use that when I'm lazy and want to switch from daily to bench OC.


Is that in the bios?
If so, I am trying to avoid having to restart it like that if possible. I would like to stay in the OS and hit OC mode...but now that I think about it, not restarting doesn't make any sense.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I
> Is that in the bios?
> If so, I am trying to avoid having to restart it like that if possible. I would like to stay in the OS and hit OC mode...but now that I think about it, not restarting doesn't make any sense.


You can save custom profiles in the bios too, I think you get 6 or so slots. What Kimir is talking about though is an AISuite III feature.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> You can save custom profiles in the bios too, I think you get 6 or so slots. What Kimir is talking about though is an AISuite III feature.


Awesome, so now I have to reinstall AISuite3....lol

My limit seems to be 4.4ghz with a 1.36 vcore.... Any suggestions to improve that or to push it to a stable 4.6 or 4.7ghz?
In the meantime I am going to go over that guide again and see if there is something I missed.
I will of course ask here first before changing anything......

Thank you everyone so far!


----------



## Kimir

Nop, not AI suite 3, turbo Vcore alone, lightweight thingy bencher use.
TurboV_Core_1.00.30


----------



## layne81

Reevr
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Okay, so this isn't you just jumping in whole-hog and new, you have some experience under your belt. That makes sense then.
> 
> Well, I think starting out at 4.3GHz with stock voltages might be worth a try, it worked for me just fine, but once I moved to 4.4 I had to increase voltages to 1.25. I keep mine at 4.4 just because then I can use offset without the finicky stuff I deal with at 4.5. Although that is irrelevant for you right now, though I do suggest offset once you get a handle on things.
> 
> So, yeah, just head into the UEFI/BIOS, and change the AI Overclock Tuner to XMP to start with, this will ensure that your RAM uses its own built in profile to run at the rated speed and timings, while still allowing for manual overclocking.
> 
> After that just set the multiplier to 43, and ensure that the BCLK (Base Clock) is set to 100MHz. F10 out of there and see how she boots, if it fails to POST, just clear the CMOS, and start over, this time increasing the voltage to maybe 1.25...
> 
> Unfortunately each chip has a different voltage, so this is really the quick and dirty guide to overclocking, I start out like this just to get a rough idea of where it stands, and fine tune from here. Once you have it running at 4.3 and stable, report back and we'll continue to do some tuning.
> 
> I am not sure how hurried you are, I am in the hospital right now, so I might not be able to respond immediately, though I'll do my best, if I can not, there are many others here that are rocking some great overclocks, and they'll surely lend a hand as well.
> 
> Good luck, and happy overclocking! Congrats on the new rig as well, I am sure everyone will enjoy some pics if you're up to it.


Man sorry you are in the hospital... Thanks for helping me while you are there. Didn't expect that...

I tried your suggestions and I can't get stable.

I set to xmp, disabled auto level up, set multiplier to 43 and voltage to 1.25.

I get crashes and freezes. Which is usually the case when I set to xmp TBH.

What would be your next step?

This is air cooled build btw...

Thanks again bro,
Layne


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> Reevr
> Man sorry you are in the hospital... Thanks for helping me while you are there. Didn't expect that...
> 
> I tried your suggestions and I can't get stable.
> 
> I set to xmp, disabled auto level up, set multiplier to 43 and voltage to 1.25.
> 
> I get crashes and freezes. Which is usually the case when I set to xmp TBH.
> 
> What would be your next step?
> 
> This is air cooled build btw...
> 
> Thanks again bro,
> Layne


set voltage higher would be my suggestion. start at 1.35 and move back by .05 until it will not boot then move it back up by same amount until it is stable during load test!


----------



## Madmaxneo

oh oh I can help, at least to get started!
First Is your RAM XMP compatible? Most RAM is but I think there are some out there that aren't
This is what I would recommend:
Default your BIOS (hit F5 while in the bios)
If your RAM is XMP compatible then turn XMP back on and see if it boots...
If it does not boot and your RAM is XMP compatible then I would contact Asus support.
If it does boot up...
Here are a few guides you really should read before proceeding:
Rampage IV Extreme UEFI BIOS Guide For Overclocking
Ivy Bridge-E Easy Overclocking Guide - The Listy/Wordy Edition
You can try the method to OC to 4.3 ghz as listed in the Ivy Bridge E guide above but it sent my voltage way to high, so keep an eye on it.
After that report back here and we can see what is going on...

Yes reev3r is a tremendous help on here despite his dealing with the hospital and all. He deserves much kudos!!
He has helped me loads on here, as others have also.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yes, disable CPU Spread Spectrum.
> 
> Honestly, that's probably the first thing you should've done before you ever even booted to Windows. No disrespect intended, but it doesn't seem as though you're going about this very methodically. At this point you're kinda just "throwing settings at the wall and seeing what sticks". You need to start at step 1 and methodically go through the steps to get to a good stable overclock. I recommend going back to the link below, getting familiar with all of the settings, and then F5 back to stock and going through the process 1 step at a time.
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/46212011/rampage-motherboards/rampage-iv-extreme-uefi-bios-guide-for-overclocking-2/


This one is my fault. I erringly thought that SST was disabled by default. He has been following the tips of users on the forum, mostly me, so any mistakes are on my end, that being said, I was doing this both from memory, and while in the hospital, so I was without the menu to look at and see the settings that needed changing.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> This one is my fault. I erringly thought that SST was disabled by default. He has been following the tips of users on the forum, mostly me, so any mistakes are on my end, that being said, I was doing this both from memory, and while in the hospital, so I was without the menu to look at and see the settings that needed changing.


Why are you taking responsibility? There are more people than you on here and I never noticed anyone posting that guide. TBH it is no ones fault. I'm newbie and learning fast.
Your out now, Awesome!
Glad to see your doing better..
Go, enjoy your machine and game some. I think I hear some games calling your name!!

When you get done and get the chance did you read my post 12316 If so then I am stuck at 4.4ghz @ 1.36 vcore. I've read some and the things I can see that might help are: CPU VTT, BCLK SKEW, VTT CPU Voltage & 2 VTTCPU Voltage, CPU VTT Switching Freq, CPU VTT Over-Current Protection, and PCH 1.1v Switching Freq.

BTW I just finished playing Skyrim (HiRes)for like the last 2 hrs (was it really that long?) and I had no problems and in fact had no discernible stutter, which I did have before. I thought the stutter would be more in line with the GPU but since I am running it at 4.4ghz the stutter was gone as far as I could tell.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Nop, not AI suite 3, turbo Vcore alone, lightweight thingy bencher use.
> TurboV_Core_1.00.30


My bad, there was a section called TurboV in AISite. I thought that's what you were talking about.

Way off topic; does anyone know a good way to non-permanently use a 15" gable exhaust fan as an exhaust in a crank casement window? I found a nice 1600 CFM unit at the local home depot and want to use it as a room ventilator. The idea is to keep from running the A/C in the evenings when it starts cooling off but no breeze.

With the unit being circular it would likely be best to build a square wooden frame around it and then make some legs out of 2x4, right? Looks aren't really a concern so long as it moves the hot air out.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Why are you taking responsibility? There are more people than you on here and I never noticed anyone posting that guide. TBH it is no ones fault. I'm newbie and learning fast.
> Your out now, Awesome!
> Glad to see your doing better..
> Go, enjoy your machine and game some. I think I hear some games calling your name!!
> 
> When you get done and get the chance did you read my post 12316 If so then I am stuck at 4.4ghz @ 1.36 vcore. I've read some and the things I can see that might help are: CPU VTT, BCLK SKEW, VTT CPU Voltage & 2 VTTCPU Voltage, CPU VTT Switching Freq, CPU VTT Over-Current Protection, and PCH 1.1v Switching Freq.
> 
> BTW I just finished playing Skyrim (HiRes)for like the last 2 hrs (was it really that long?) and I had no problems and in fact had no discernible stutter, which I did have before. I thought the stutter would be more in line with the GPU but since I am running it at 4.4ghz the stutter was gone as far as I could tell.


Nobody's "fault", as I said to begin with I wasn't trying to be disrespectful or shadey, just pointing out that if you didn't know to disable CPU Spread Spectrum from the get-go, you might be getting ahead of yourself. As you are now seeing, if you skip step 1, steps 2-100 won't do you much good.









Glad to hear you found some stable settings. 4.4 @1.36v sounds perfectly reasonable to me. Not a particularly great chip, but certainly within the generally accepted range of operation. And at the end of the day, if there's 1 thing I've learned through the course of my last umpteen-million builds, it's that your chip will tell you where it's comfortable; and once it tells you, there's no sense arguing with it. It always wins.







Sounds like your chip is comfortable at 4.4ghz - I say go with it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

First sorry about the non topic post here:
Someone posted a question about windows 10 and up until now I have not had any problems with anything they are setting. But now I hear that You Won't Be Able to Disable (or Delay) Windows Updates on Windows 10 Home. Which is more of a problem then what the article says. Now I am lucky in this regard because I 8.1 pro so I will still be able to delay updates. But there are a few reasons I don't like using auto updates:
1. Has anyone else noticed that when an update is waiting to be installed (already downloaded) that the system becomes slightly sluggish? I noticed this with windows 7 and more so with windows 8.
In fact there have been times (in both versions) that the OS would act weird until I restarted.
2. If I am downloading or uploading something (which I do both often) and the update starts downloading it really screws up the time it takes to download or upload something. It's as if windows is set to take all of my bandwidth no matter what.
3. God forbid if I am OCing, adding/changing parts around, or benchmarking......

That last point alone will stop many OCers in general from wanting to upgrade.

Thoughts?

I can see someone possibly developing an app that keeps windows from checking for updates.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> First sorry about the non topic post here:
> Someone posted a question about windows 10 and up until now I have not had any problems with anything they are setting. But now I hear that You Won't Be Able to Disable (or Delay) Windows Updates on Windows 10 Home. Which is more of a problem then what the article says. Now I am lucky in this regard because I 8.1 pro so I will still be able to delay updates. But there are a few reasons I don't like using auto updates:
> 1. Has anyone else noticed that when an update is waiting to be installed (already downloaded) that the system becomes slightly sluggish? I noticed this with windows 7 and more so with windows 8.
> In fact there have been times (in both versions) that the OS would act weird until I restarted.
> 2. If I am downloading or uploading something (which I do both often) and the update starts downloading it really screws up the time it takes to download or upload something. It's as if windows is set to take all of my bandwidth no matter what.
> 3. God forbid if I am OCing, adding/changing parts around, or benchmarking......
> 
> That last point alone will stop many OCers in general from wanting to upgrade.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> I can see someone possibly developing an app that keeps windows from checking for updates.


This is the first I'm hearing of it, but my experience with Windows Update in the Windows 10 beta is that it is difficult to "manage". It just kinda updates everything in the background, you don't have as many options to delay or disable it (or at least I haven't found them). The flip side of this is that the drivers etc that it downloads are actually very well optimized. Even that stupid AMDA0 thing that has been borked since the release of RIVE installed correctly on its own.

But yeah, I'm a fan of having MORE control over the system, not less. But that puts us both squarely in the minority.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> This is the first I'm hearing of it, but my experience with Windows Update in the Windows 10 beta is that it is difficult to "manage". It just kinda updates everything in the background, you don't have as many options to delay or disable it (or at least I haven't found them). The flip side of this is that the drivers etc that it downloads are actually very well optimized. Even that stupid AMDA0 thing that has been borked since the release of RIVE installed correctly on its own.
> 
> But yeah, I'm a fan of having MORE control over the system, not less. But that puts us both squarely in the minority.


I'm not sure about that. I am going through the discussions for that article and it seems everyone is upset about it.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Well, there's still plenty of time before the retail release, so it's entirely likely we'll see a new option added by then. MS seems to be pretty responsive these days - they've got too much riding on Windows 10 to not pay attention to us.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> First sorry about the non topic post here:
> Someone posted a question about windows 10 and up until now I have not had any problems with anything they are setting. But now I hear that You Won't Be Able to Disable (or Delay) Windows Updates on Windows 10 Home. Which is more of a problem then what the article says. Now I am lucky in this regard because I 8.1 pro so I will still be able to delay updates. But there are a few reasons I don't like using auto updates:
> 1. Has anyone else noticed that when an update is waiting to be installed (already downloaded) that the system becomes slightly sluggish? I noticed this with windows 7 and more so with windows 8.
> In fact there have been times (in both versions) that the OS would act weird until I restarted.
> 2. If I am downloading or uploading something (which I do both often) and the update starts downloading it really screws up the time it takes to download or upload something. It's as if windows is set to take all of my bandwidth no matter what.
> 3. God forbid if I am OCing, adding/changing parts around, or benchmarking......
> 
> That last point alone will stop many OCers in general from wanting to upgrade.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> I can see someone possibly developing an app that keeps windows from checking for updates.


And that's forgetting all the issues those updates can cause to gamers. There were a few patches that gave anyone who played World in Conflict issues. one caused you to CTD on launch if trying to run in Dx10 mode a year or so back. That's just one example, that kind of thing has happened to me enough that I wait longer to even check for windows updates.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> This is the first I'm hearing of it, but my experience with Windows Update in the Windows 10 beta is that it is difficult to "manage". It just kinda updates everything in the background, you don't have as many options to delay or disable it (or at least I haven't found them). The flip side of this is that the drivers etc that it downloads are actually very well optimized. Even that stupid AMDA0 thing that has been borked since the release of RIVE installed correctly on its own.
> 
> But yeah, I'm a fan of having MORE control over the system, not less. But that puts us both squarely in the minority.


Wouldn't turning that off defeat the point of why you're supposed to be using that version? Unless I'm mistaken, MS wanted folks to use it so they could find bugs faster. So choosing to run an outdated version would be counter intuitive, no?

I like control over my systems too and expected most on this site to feel the same. What I've seen thus far though seems like more people are interested in getting something free than something they actually like. They're so fixated on getting Dx12 they don't care about anything else. As if we're going to have any amazing Dx12 games right off anyway lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Well, there's still plenty of time before the retail release, so it's entirely likely we'll see a new option added by then. MS seems to be pretty responsive these days - they've got too much riding on Windows 10 to not pay attention to us.


I think it might actually be part of their plan. All the folks that don't care about control over their OS or don't have a use for it will take the free upgrade while all those that want those options and such will pay for the pro version. If the "Home" version is geared towards the average consumer I could see how forcing updates would be somewhat acceptable because of their proficiency. It just sucks that instead of getting something free with a comparable level of functionality I'll have to spend more money to get the next bar up. Considering that "Pro" versions will likely cost more than "Home" retail versions.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> This is the first I'm hearing of it, but my experience with Windows Update in the Windows 10 beta is that it is difficult to "manage". It just kinda updates everything in the background, you don't have as many options to delay or disable it (or at least I haven't found them). The flip side of this is that the drivers etc that it downloads are actually very well optimized. Even that stupid AMDA0 thing that has been borked since the release of RIVE installed correctly on its own.
> 
> But yeah, I'm a fan of having MORE control over the system, not less. But that puts us both squarely in the minority.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I'm not sure about that. I am going through the discussions for that article and it seems everyone is upset about it.
Click to expand...

Don't like auto updates cause im on prepaid 4G @ $10AU a Gig .

I have to watch my usage big time . To d/load Win 10 will cost me $30AU to start .......









So no Win 10 for me till that's sorted out


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry but i think i will just end it now, i can see that we will have no common ground, esp on the video game trials and tt vs cl, cl makes a case, sorry MM does not own the cubed case and they are not similar beyond the basics has a mobo which is either upright, upsidedown or sideways and fan holes. tt cloned the CL case, there is far more then 1or 2 similarities, it is actually easier to list all the ways they are different and i could make an easy case on the biggest difference is the label
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize common ground was a prerequisite to having a debate with you. To be honest, and I don't intend this as an insult, I see this as "I have no valid rebuttal so I'm going home". CL and MM have the same functionality, they just provide it in different ways and price points.
Click to expand...

please dont, but i will explain,

please take it as a " i have worked as of now 72.5 hours this week, and i am exhausted and done, and i dont feel like debating with someone who will just continue to believe what they do without hope of persuasion, i learned what i needed from our short conversation, and that is ok, we are allowed to disagree in this beautiful country, i just really dont have the energy to do it. "

seriously, i barely have the will to lift this beer


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please dont, but i will explain,
> 
> please take it as a " i have worked as of now 72.5 hours this week, and i am exhausted and done, and i dont feel like debating with someone who will just continue to believe what they do without hope of persuasion, i learned what i needed from our short conversation, and that is ok, we are allowed to disagree in this beautiful country, i just really dont have the energy to do it. "
> 
> seriously, i barely have the will to lift this beer


there is something really wrong if a Man can not lift his beer!! it means that he needs a few shots first!!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> And that's forgetting all the issues those updates can cause to gamers. There were a few patches that gave anyone who played World in Conflict issues. one caused you to CTD on launch if trying to run in Dx10 mode a year or so back. That's just one example, that kind of thing has happened to me enough that I wait longer to even check for windows updates.
> Wouldn't turning that off defeat the point of why you're supposed to be using that version? Unless I'm mistaken, MS wanted folks to use it so they could find bugs faster. So choosing to run an outdated version would be counter intuitive, no?
> 
> I like control over my systems too and expected most on this site to feel the same. What I've seen thus far though seems like more people are interested in getting something free than something they actually like. They're so fixated on getting Dx12 they don't care about anything else. As if we're going to have any amazing Dx12 games right off anyway lol.
> I think it might actually be part of their plan. All the folks that don't care about control over their OS or don't have a use for it will take the free upgrade while all those that want those options and such will pay for the pro version. If the "Home" version is geared towards the average consumer I could see how forcing updates would be somewhat acceptable because of their proficiency. It just sucks that instead of getting something free with a comparable level of functionality I'll have to spend more money to get the next bar up. Considering that "Pro" versions will likely cost more than "Home" retail versions.


Yeah, you're probably right.... though I don't expect they've disabled any control options in the preview version. Although I suppose it is possible.

Again, fwiw, I just today installed the newest preview build, and the driver update functionality is even better. I literally only installed the chipset, nothing else. Windows update even [correctly] installed the nvidia driver package AND my long defunct X-Fi soundcard. I've never seen Windows do either of those correctly before. Now if only I could sort out why it isn't reporting my voltage & temp sensors correctly. :\

At the end of the day, though, I'm definitely going with the Pro version one way or another. And I'll likely just pony up the funds for the full retail installation. I learned my lesson on going with the cheaper oem/upgrade option with Windows 8. For me, I think it's worth it just to pay for the OS for my own peace of mind. But again, ALL contingent on the final retail release reporting my cpu voltage & temperatures properly, which so far the beta builds are NOT doing.


----------



## seross69

The is one of the best boards I have ever had..

I am able to run 64gb of memory at 2400mhz

My CPU is at 4.6 at 1.35 or less volts

everything has just been rock solid, i have rebuilt it 3 times and still performing great!

Plus it looks great also!!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The is one of the best boards I have ever had..
> 
> I am able to run 64gb of memory at 2400mhz
> 
> My CPU is at 4.6 at 1.35 or less volts
> 
> everything has just been rock solid, i have rebuilt it 3 times and still performing great!
> 
> Plus it looks great also!!


Preaching to the choir, son, preaching to the choir.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Don't like auto updates cause im on prepaid 4G @ $10AU a Gig .
> 
> I have to watch my usage big time . To d/load Win 10 will cost me $30AU to start .......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So no Win 10 for me till that's sorted out


There is an option to "download updates only on wifi", so you could disable automatic updates on 4G easily enough. I don't know if there's an option after that to select certain updates to download manually or not, though I would assume there must be.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please dont, but i will explain,
> 
> please take it as a " i have worked as of now 72.5 hours this week, and i am exhausted and done, and i dont feel like debating with someone who will just continue to believe what they do without hope of persuasion, i learned what i needed from our short conversation, and that is ok, we are allowed to disagree in this beautiful country, i just really dont have the energy to do it. "
> 
> seriously, i barely have the will to lift this beer


I see. Though I do contend that you're being very presumptuous in believing that I would be unswayed. I use all valid input when forming and adapting my understandings and beliefs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, you're probably right.... though I don't expect they've disabled any control options in the preview version. Although I suppose it is possible.
> 
> Again, fwiw, I just today installed the newest preview build, and the driver update functionality is even better. I literally only installed the chipset, nothing else. Windows update even [correctly] installed the nvidia driver package AND my long defunct X-Fi soundcard. I've never seen Windows do either of those correctly before. Now if only I could sort out why it isn't reporting my voltage & temp sensors correctly. :\
> 
> At the end of the day, though, I'm definitely going with the Pro version one way or another. And I'll likely just pony up the funds for the full retail installation. I learned my lesson on going with the cheaper oem/upgrade option with Windows 8. For me, I think it's worth it just to pay for the OS for my own peace of mind. But again, ALL contingent on the final retail release reporting my cpu voltage & temperatures properly, which so far the beta builds are NOT doing.


I could see both reasons for and against doing something like that. Though since I'm not personally using it myself I can't say for sure.

See that's also part of the issue, right? I use a certain driver version for a certain reason. To boot I like installing those myself anyway because then I know where I'm getting them from, what they do/fix/enhance/etc. The whole "game ready nvidia gfx driver for the witcher 3" nightmare underlines why we don't always go with the latest drivers. I think gfx OCers do something similar also. It is a nice feature to have when you want to use it but we shouldn't be forced to use it (I'm assuming that drivers are forced to update too. correct me if I'm wrong).

I'll be doing the same if I decide to go to 10. Though I'm also open to the enterprise version.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The is one of the best boards I have ever had..
> 
> I am able to run 64gb of memory at 2400mhz
> 
> My CPU is at 4.6 at 1.35 or less volts
> 
> everything has just been rock solid, i have rebuilt it 3 times and still performing great!
> 
> Plus it looks great also!!


So what are your settings?...lol

I still think there is something else I can do to get a better OC. My temps are staying in the low 30's and I have not had any problems whatsoever.

There has to be something else I can do.....


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So what are your settings?...lol
> 
> I still think there is something else I can do to get a better OC. My temps are staying in the low 30's and I have not had any problems whatsoever.
> 
> There has to be something else I can do.....


You still around tonight? Sorry for the disappearing act, still not feeling great since my release, but I'd rather feel like crap at home than feel like crap at the hospital...

So what are all of your settings at right now? If you have some time available tomorrow night (after about 2am or so) we can surely just do a have at it and go through everything to see what we can do...

We might be able to squeeze out another 100-200MHz with some effort... However, it will likely take just that, some effort, since even without going the extra mile, many chips see 4.4GHz without much effort or voltage, it seems that 4.5 on these chips is the voltage barrier, in that it takes exponentially more voltage to see 4.5 than 4.4, but not always the case...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> You still around tonight? Sorry for the disappearing act, still not feeling great since my release, but I'd rather feel like crap at home than feel like crap at the hospital...
> 
> So what are all of your settings at right now? If you have some time available tomorrow night (after about 2am or so) we can surely just do a have at it and go through everything to see what we can do...
> 
> We might be able to squeeze out another 100-200MHz with some effort... However, it will likely take just that, some effort, since even without going the extra mile, many chips see 4.4GHz without much effort or voltage, it seems that 4.5 on these chips is the voltage barrier, in that it takes exponentially more voltage to see 4.5 than 4.4, but not always the case...


Just make sure you get some good rest.
Yes I am still here though I should be in bed by now.
I will definitely be up late tomorrow but I will not be able to use skype or anything of the like that late at night.

One of the things I have not heard anyone mention in OCing was adjusting the BCLK, is that bad on these chips?
That was one of the things I adjusted on my old core 2 quad Q6700 to get almost +1ghz out of it, and that was on air cooling.
My BCLK is still at 100......


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Just make sure you get some good rest.
> Yes I am still here though I should be in bed by now.
> I will definitely be up late tomorrow but I will not be able to use skype or anything of the like that late at night.
> 
> One of the things I have not heard anyone mention in OCing was adjusting the BCLK, is that bad on these chips?
> That was one of the things I adjusted on my old core 2 quad Q6700 to get almost +1ghz out of it, and that was on air cooling.
> My BCLK is still at 100......


The system for overclocking the 2nd gen and later chips is the multiplier, sometimes you can have luck by setting the BCLK higher (125) and a lower multiplier, but I am not a fan of that method, simply because the BCLK is the strap for more than just the CPU, so increasing that effectively overclocks the bus of interconnects in the system. However, as stated, sometimes it works, I really don't think it should be relied upon as a long term solution, more as an edge case to test the potential limits of your chip.

That's fine that you can't chat, we can use Skype to IM or something. I am about to get to bed now, but I'll be up late tomorrow for sure, barring anything unforseen.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Just make sure you get some good rest.
> Yes I am still here though I should be in bed by now.
> I will definitely be up late tomorrow but I will not be able to use skype or anything of the like that late at night.
> 
> One of the things I have not heard anyone mention in OCing was adjusting the BCLK, is that bad on these chips?
> That was one of the things I adjusted on my old core 2 quad Q6700 to get almost +1ghz out of it, and that was on air cooling.
> My BCLK is still at 100......


That was the Front Side Bus for Core 2 Quad chips. BCLK was first gen Core i series like the 1366 socket iirc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> The system for overclocking the 2nd gen and later chips is the multiplier, sometimes you can have luck by setting the BCLK higher (125) and a lower multiplier, but I am not a fan of that method, simply because the BCLK is the strap for more than just the CPU, so increasing that effectively overclocks the bus of interconnects in the system. However, as stated, sometimes it works, I really don't think it should be relied upon as a long term solution, more as an edge case to test the potential limits of your chip.
> 
> That's fine that you can't chat, we can use Skype to IM or something. I am about to get to bed now, but I'll be up late tomorrow for sure, barring anything unforseen.


I'm not sure that's completely true. In the SBE oc guide I always link they seem to talk about the actual base clock gen and the BCLK being separate for specifically that reason; so one can OC via the BCLK without messing with the base clock. I've seen questions like that asked before too regarding OCing non-k chips like the 3820 and those people being explicitly told that the BCLK and the base clock gen aren't connected in a way that increasing BCLK will cause increases across the whole base clock interconnect.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So what are your settings?...lol
> 
> I still think there is something else I can do to get a better OC. My temps are staying in the low 30's and I have not had any problems whatsoever.
> 
> There has to be something else I can do.....


My settings are very simple with my 4960 and 2400mhz gSkill memory (64gb)

I have set to xmp
Multiplier to 46
And voltage to 1.30

Mine is funny as to gey 4.7 i have to have over 1.4 vcore and i dont want to run that high


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecTRe-X*
> 
> That was the Front Side Bus for Core 2 Quad chips. BCLK was first gen Core i series like the 1366 socket iirc.
> I'm not sure that's completely true. In the SBE oc guide I always link they seem to talk about the actual base clock gen and the BCLK being separate for specifically that reason; so one can OC via the BCLK without messing with the base clock. I've seen questions like that asked before too regarding OCing non-k chips like the 3820 and those people being explicitly told that the BCLK and the base clock gen aren't connected in a way that increasing BCLK will cause increases across the whole base clock interconnect.


BCLK is short for base clock.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> The system for overclocking the 2nd gen and later chips is the multiplier, sometimes you can have luck by setting the BCLK higher (125) and a lower multiplier, but I am not a fan of that method, simply because the BCLK is the strap for more than just the CPU, so increasing that effectively overclocks the bus of interconnects in the system. However, as stated, sometimes it works, I really don't think it should be relied upon as a long term solution, more as an edge case to test the potential limits of your chip.
> 
> That's fine that you can't chat, we can use Skype to IM or something. I am about to get to bed now, but I'll be up late tomorrow for sure, barring anything unforseen.


I agree with reev3r, but it should also be noted that a lot of folks do report having better luck reaching higher oc's on IB-e using the 125 strap and a lower multiplier. I personally think that's a lot more complicated, and generally is going to produce more heat, but it's worth playing with if you're not satisfied with 4.4ghz. Although, TBH, it's just not likely you're going to get beyond 4.5ghz without custom watercooling - or at least a H100i or the like. Even WITH custom watercooling, it's not hard to push 68c with Prime95 at 4.6ghz @1.34v....without custom water I'd surely be breaking TJMax


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I agree with reev3r, but it should also be noted that a lot of folks do report having better luck reaching higher oc's on IB-e using the 125 strap and a lower multiplier. I personally think that's a lot more complicated, and generally is going to produce more heat, but it's worth playing with if you're not satisfied with 4.4ghz. Although, TBH, it's just not likely you're going to get beyond 4.5ghz without custom watercooling - or at least a H100i or the like. Even WITH custom watercooling, it's not hard to push 68c with Prime95 at 4.6ghz @1.34v....without custom water I'd surely be breaking TJMax


I think madmaxnei limitation is voltage as he can not get it to boot at reasonable voltage not that it is getting too hot


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think madmaxnei limitation is voltage as he can not get it to boot at reasonable voltage not that it is getting too hot


Right, but I'm saying even if he went to BCLK clocking instead and managed to find some combo of BCLK & multi that allowed him to get another 100mhz out of his system, he's highly likely to hit a temperature wall even if he isn't hitting one now. At the end of the day, my advice is to keep playing with it just for kicks, but realize that 4.4ghz isn't a bad oc and may simply be where [his] system is happy.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Right, but I'm saying even if he went to BCLK clocking instead and managed to find some combo of BCLK & multi that allowed him to get another 100mhz out of his system, he's highly likely to hit a temperature wall even if he isn't hitting one now. At the end of the day, my advice is to keep playing with it just for kicks, but realize that 4.4ghz isn't a bad oc and may simply be where [his] system is happy.


I agree with you just think he lost silicon lottery and this is un usual as most people i have seen on here get 4.5/4.6


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think madmaxnei limitation is voltage as he can not get it to boot at reasonable voltage not that it is getting too hot


Exactly, I have not had a problem with heat just yet.
Though and I wanted to ask this before (but kept forgetting); What is AUXTIN0 through AUXTIN3 (as reported in speedfan)? There are 4 of them and the temps are always about 99 deg. I don't see these numbers in any of the other monitoring software I have (including OCCT and the reinstalled AISuite3).
I found some interesting things in that guide that posted a few days ago:
*VCore Load-Line Calibration*: Sets a margin between idle and full processor load voltage to compensate for overshoot. To clarify; overshoot is a short duration voltage excursion beyond applied processor VID. We recommend a setting of Medium for most overclocking.
*BCLK Skew*: The sweet spot for BCLK Skew on this CPU is -2 bundled with -20 on PCIE CLK Skew. A good match in these 2 skews can help with BCLK/DRAM/Overall OC stability and help reduce Vcore requirements at a given operating frequency.
*PCH 1.1v Switching Freq*: Can be left on Auto for most overclocking. If running higher BCLKs, you may wish to alter switching frequency and see if it impacts stability. Can be left at stock for most overclocking. If running very high VCCSA and VTT, then over-volting this rail to maintain the same voltage delta may be beneficial.
*CPU PLL Voltage*: For most overclocking, the minimum voltage requirements will be centered around 1.80V. If using higher processor multiplier ratios or DRAM frequencies over DDR3 2200, then a small over-voltage here can aid stability.

And finally there is this one:
*VTT CPU Voltage & 2 VTTCPU Voltage*: To let users over-volt part of the CPU VTT that affects OC without over-volting the part of VTT that does not affect OC, we split up VTT rails to VTT and Secondary VTT.

Anyone here ever mess with these?
Correct me if I am wrong but the BCLK one sounds like something I should try for my instability issues....(just reading that without knowing what is going on is kind of funny...lol)


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Exactly, I have not had a problem with heat just yet.
> Though and I wanted to ask this before (but kept forgetting); What is AUXTIN0 through AUXTIN3 (as reported in speedfan)? There are 4 of them and the temps are always about 99 deg. I don't see these numbers in any of the other monitoring software I have (including OCCT and the reinstalled AISuite3).
> I found some interesting things in that guide that posted a few days ago:
> *VCore Load-Line Calibration*: Sets a margin between idle and full processor load voltage to compensate for overshoot. To clarify; overshoot is a short duration voltage excursion beyond applied processor VID. We recommend a setting of Medium for most overclocking.
> *BCLK Skew*: The sweet spot for BCLK Skew on this CPU is -2 bundled with -20 on PCIE CLK Skew. A good match in these 2 skews can help with BCLK/DRAM/Overall OC stability and help reduce Vcore requirements at a given operating frequency.
> *PCH 1.1v Switching Freq*: Can be left on Auto for most overclocking. If running higher BCLKs, you may wish to alter switching frequency and see if it impacts stability. Can be left at stock for most overclocking. If running very high VCCSA and VTT, then over-volting this rail to maintain the same voltage delta may be beneficial.
> *CPU PLL Voltage*: For most overclocking, the minimum voltage requirements will be centered around 1.80V. If using higher processor multiplier ratios or DRAM frequencies over DDR3 2200, then a small over-voltage here can aid stability.
> 
> And finally there is this one:
> *VTT CPU Voltage & 2 VTTCPU Voltage*: To let users over-volt part of the CPU VTT that affects OC without over-volting the part of VTT that does not affect OC, we split up VTT rails to VTT and Secondary VTT.
> 
> Anyone here ever mess with these?
> Correct me if I am wrong but the BCLK one sounds like something I should try for my instability issues....(just reading that without knowing what is going on is kind of funny...lol)


AUXTIN is the Auxiliary temperature sensors, which you would only be using if you had an 'open box' type of build. It just defaults to 99 degrees when there's nothing else set or read. You can disable them in the bios (temperature control settings)

As for the others...
CPU Load Line Calibration can be very important, I discussed this yesterday several posts back.
Leave CPU PLL alone, 1.80v (Auto) is pretty much always the right setting.
CPU VTT can be important....I've never had to change it from Auto, personally. YMMV.
Don't touch 2VTT, they split it off because this part ISN'T important to stability. Even if you end up raising VTT manually, leave 2VTT on Auto.
I have no idea what BCLK Skew does. I don't think anybody does. lol


----------



## layne81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> oh oh I can help, at least to get started!
> First Is your RAM XMP compatible? Most RAM is but I think there are some out there that aren't
> This is what I would recommend:
> Default your BIOS (hit F5 while in the bios)
> If your RAM is XMP compatible then turn XMP back on and see if it boots...
> If it does not boot and your RAM is XMP compatible then I would contact Asus support.
> If it does boot up...
> Here are a few guides you really should read before proceeding:
> Rampage IV Extreme UEFI BIOS Guide For Overclocking
> Ivy Bridge-E Easy Overclocking Guide - The Listy/Wordy Edition
> You can try the method to OC to 4.3 ghz as listed in the Ivy Bridge E guide above but it sent my voltage way to high, so keep an eye on it.
> After that report back here and we can see what is going on...
> 
> Yes reev3r is a tremendous help on here despite his dealing with the hospital and all. He deserves much kudos!!
> He has helped me loads on here, as others have also.


When you say does not boot up...does that mean shuts off or when it boots there is an error...or such.

Sometimes when I change settings the PC shuts off abruptly as if someone unplugged the power then starts up.... Sometimes when I increase voltage the PC will restart as if I manually restarted my PC.

I also I am having hell getting stability here.... I started at 1.25 at 4.3ghz as Reever suggested... No go.... So I increased my voltage to 1.28..... No go... now I am at 1.3 and it is fine....

My cpu is sitting at 40c when idling....

Educate me guys... hahaha

Thanks again,
Layne


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> When you say does not boot up...does that mean shuts off or when it boots there is an error...or such.
> 
> Sometimes when I change settings the PC shuts off abruptly as if someone unplugged the power then starts up.... Sometimes when I increase voltage the PC will restart as if I manually restarted my PC.
> 
> I also I am having hell getting stability here.... I started at 1.25 at 4.3ghz as Reever suggested... No go.... So I increased my voltage to 1.28..... No go... now I am at 1.3 and it is fine....
> 
> My cpu is sitting at 40c when idling....
> 
> Educate me guys... hahaha
> 
> Thanks again,
> Layne


4.3 at 1.30 volts is not good!!! I can do this at below 1.2!! You are going to have a hard time getting this cip over 4.4 to 4.5!!

I would try 4.4 at 1.4 and run prime for a period or time 15 to 20 minutes and if ok repeat and move voltage down by .05 until it crashes then move it back up by .05 and let me know what voltage it was stable at


----------



## layne81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 4.3 at 1.30 volts is not good!!! I can do this at below 1.2!! You are going to have a hard time getting this cip over 4.4 to 4.5!!
> 
> I would try 4.4 at 1.4 and run prime for a period or time 15 to 20 minutes and if ok repeat and move voltage down by .05 until it crashes then move it back up by .05 and let me know what voltage it was stable at


I will try this out when I get home. i dont want to fry anything.... I figure with my components... I should have been fine.... kinda bummed here.

Are u running an air cooled build?

Here is my PC specs in case you didnt see:

Here is my PC specs:

Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black Case
Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard
i7-4930K Ivy Bridge 6-Core LGA 2011 3.4GHZ
Corsair H100i Extreme Performance Water/Liquid CPU Cooler
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB Ram (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
2x EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified 3GB Cards (Running SLI)
Corsair AX1200i PSU
6x Corsair AF120 Performance Edition Fans


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> I will try this out when I get home. i dont want to fry anything.... I figure with my components... I should have been fine.... kinda bummed here.
> 
> Are u running an air cooled build?
> 
> Here is my PC specs in case you didnt see:
> 
> Here is my PC specs:
> 
> Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black Case
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard
> i7-4930K Ivy Bridge 6-Core LGA 2011 3.4GHZ
> Corsair H100i Extreme Performance Water/Liquid CPU Cooler
> Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB Ram (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
> 2x EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified 3GB Cards (Running SLI)
> Corsair AX1200i PSU
> 6x Corsair AF120 Performance Edition Fans


Of course i am not running a air cooled build!!!!

While you are running prime have real temp ipen so you can monitor temps and dont let it get above 80 but since you water cooling should not havto worry about that!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> I will try this out when I get home. i dont want to fry anything.... I figure with my components... I should have been fine.... kinda bummed here.
> 
> Are u running an air cooled build?
> 
> Here is my PC specs in case you didnt see:
> 
> Here is my PC specs:
> 
> Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black Case
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard
> i7-4930K Ivy Bridge 6-Core LGA 2011 3.4GHZ
> Corsair H100i Extreme Performance Water/Liquid CPU Cooler
> Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB Ram (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
> 2x EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified 3GB Cards (Running SLI)
> Corsair AX1200i PSU
> 6x Corsair AF120 Performance Edition Fans


I'd also look into OCCT it shows the temps while it is stress testing. It is not as tough on your components as prime95 is and from what I have been told a little more realistic for gaming.

FYI, I am not sure what you meant when you stated how your PC boots but when you change your base from auto to 43 (what you had it set at to get 4.3ghz) the bios has to shut all the way down then reboot for the changes to take effect.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Of course i am not running a air cooled build!!!!
> 
> While you are running prime have real temp ipen so you can monitor temps and dont let it get above 80 but since you water cooling should not havto worry about that!!!


Wait, you can get 4.3ghz with less that 1.2 vcore? Good lord that is low.....


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> I will try this out when I get home. i dont want to fry anything.... I figure with my components... I should have been fine.... kinda bummed here.
> 
> Are u running an air cooled build?
> 
> Here is my PC specs in case you didnt see:
> 
> Here is my PC specs:
> 
> Corsair C70 Gunmetal Black Case
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard
> i7-4930K Ivy Bridge 6-Core LGA 2011 3.4GHZ
> Corsair H100i Extreme Performance Water/Liquid CPU Cooler
> Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB Ram (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
> 2x EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified 3GB Cards (Running SLI)
> Corsair AX1200i PSU
> 6x Corsair AF120 Performance Edition Fans


I'd recommend going back about 10 pages and reading the past few weeks of posts in this thread, they will answer most of your questions.

That ram is known to have a history of problems with Rampage IV boards. Not necessarily what's causing your problem, but it could be a factor, you should google it.

Also, the first thing you need to do is set your ram back to 1333 mhz or whatever it defaults to. Work with the cpu ALONE, worry about clocking your ram separately later.

Also, fwiw, try Cinebench before Prime95. In my experience, Cinebench will crash a lot faster than Prime and won't burn your chip up in the process. Once you get it "Cinebench stable", then you can move on to Prime or OCCT or whatever else you use for stability testing (I like Realbench). There's NO reason to run Prime95 for 24+ hours like some people will think, all that does is put unnecessary stress on your hardware -- Cinebench + Realbench + Unigine Heaven will prove 'gaming stability' in mere minutes without killing your chip.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Wait, you can get 4.3ghz with less that 1.2 vcore? Good lord that is low.....


As do I. 4.3 only takes like 1.19v or something iirc. Mine is a "good" chip, but certainly not a spectacular one.

Honestly, most 4930k's should be able to do 4.3ghz in offset mode +.025 (or it might be +.03... it's been awhile since I've quoted this particular advice lol). That's generally the rule of thumb for a "quick n dirty" overclock, no fuss no muss.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> As do I. 4.3 only takes like 1.19v or something iirc. Mine is a "good" chip, but certainly not a spectacular one.
> 
> Honestly, most 4930k's should be able to do 4.3ghz in offset mode +.025 (or it might be +.03... it's been awhile since I've quoted this particular advice lol). That's generally the rule of thumb for a "quick n dirty" overclock, no fuss no muss.


So you use offset mode then, I'll maybe have to try that tonight...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please dont, but i will explain,
> 
> please take it as a " i have worked as of now 72.5 hours this week, and i am exhausted and done, and i dont feel like debating with someone who will just continue to believe what they do without hope of persuasion, i learned what i needed from our short conversation, and that is ok, we are allowed to disagree in this beautiful country, i just really dont have the energy to do it. "
> 
> seriously, i barely have the will to lift this beer


Do you install domestic and commercial HVAC ??????

I did 8 years in that industry , suppling contractors for installs .

No wonder your stuffed , installing sheetmetal duct runs and commercial big Kw fancoils is no easy feat


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> BCLK is short for base clock.


Yeah but there is a difference (from what I've read) between BCLK and the "base clock generator". The base clock gen is the actual speed of the base clock and the BCLK is a separate toggle that doesn't directly impact PCIE lane speed etc. Provided what I've read about later gen Core I overclocking is right.


----------



## reev3r

Alright, everyone, I think you are all great, and dandy, and I would hate to make any of you jealous with a photograph...

But alas, I am confident it is going to happen in the next few hours...

The best/worst part, is that there will not be a single computer/electronic component in the photograph...

Props to anybody that guesses what the photograph will be of!










"It was like, BLADOW!"


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am attempting some different OC settings, on the last one I got this error CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT. I checked online and didn't really gain any info on what this means, does anyone have any insight on this?


----------



## reev3r

Alright everyone... Here it is! The glory on a plate!



That, my friends, is a perfectly prepared Ribeye steak, that I cooked on my propane grill, that I modded so it also cooks with Charcoal (that is what I used for this)!!!

I have to say, I have never, in my life, had a more perfectly prepared Ribeye steak! In fact, the only steak I can think of that is on par with this, was at a fancy restaurant, and the 'meal', for my girlfriend and I cost me $500. Unfortunately, the 'steak' was literally two bites. This one is tied for second, and that was a Porterhouse I cooked two years ago. However, I really think that this one wins out, just slightly...

Sorry all, for the completely unrelated post, but I am just so danged proud of this! I am as passionate about cooking as I am about computers, both of which being skills I have taught myself over the years with zero formal training on either.

Thank you all for bearing with me on this one. ;-)


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am attempting some different OC settings, on the last one I got this error CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT. I checked online and didn't really gain any info on what this means, does anyone have any insight on this?


As I mentioned this is a 'common' error to receive when overclocking a processor. Basically it is an error involving the communication between a thread and a core, or one core to another core.

Any time you receive an error like this, just type in the name of the error, and then 'error', or 'fix' into Google, you should get some relevant results.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> As I mentioned this is a 'common' error to receive when overclocking a processor. Basically it is an error involving the communication between a thread and a core, or one core to another core.
> 
> Any time you receive an error like this, just type in the name of the error, and then 'error', or 'fix' into Google, you should get some relevant results.


I checked online and it didn't tell me much. WHat I was hoping for was that someone could point me to what setting I might change to get better results...


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I checked online and it didn't tell me much. WHat I was hoping for was that someone could point me to what setting I might change to get better results...


Oh, gotcha. I thought you wanted to know what the error itself was. As far as changing a specific setting in order to stop it, there really is no easy way of knowing which setting or combination of settings might be causing it, the best you can do is trial and error, and as you have surely seen, that is about 89% of what overclocking is. You have the 1% bump voltage and multiplier, 10% luck, and the rest is trial and error...


----------



## alancsalt

Quite apart from the swearing/profanity, the off topic was off enough to draw reports. Cleaned.

EDIT:
More cleaning. May not discuss mod actions, deletions etc.
http://www.overclock.net/a/terms-of-service

There is some latitude with off topic, but limits are as per TOS.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Something just occurred to me and my OC attempts. When I was first building this system it was recommended that I get 4 strips of RAM as opposed to one or two because the system is less stable with less than 4 strips (no matter the size). I currently only have 2 8gb strips of RAM in my system.

Can only having two strips of RAM have an impact on OC stability?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Something just occurred to me and my OC attempts. When I was first building this system it was recommended that I get 4 strips of RAM as opposed to one or two because the system is less stable with less than 4 strips (no matter the size). I currently only have 2 8gb strips of RAM in my system.
> 
> Can only having two strips of RAM have an impact on OC stability?


No. If anything more Ram modules can be less stable, though it's not a big concern. The advantage in your case is that x79 chips support quad channel Ram usage, so running 4 modules is *very slightly* faster than 2.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Something just occurred to me and my OC attempts. When I was first building this system it was recommended that I get 4 strips of RAM as opposed to one or two because the system is less stable with less than 4 strips (no matter the size). I currently only have 2 8gb strips of RAM in my system.
> 
> Can only having two strips of RAM have an impact on OC stability?


I have not read about need 4 sticks of ram to get stable, but have read that it is easier to get higher clocks with less ram so i do t think this is your problem, you know what i think is the problem!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Thanks guys!
Interesting, and I will take your words for it.
I distinctly remember two different sources telling me that when I was in the process of building this system. I just don't remember where as it has been at least a year since I started planning for this build. One was on a forum somewhere and the other was a tech in a store somewhere.


----------



## fishingfanatic

Stuff like that I tend to try it for myself, mostly out of curiosity.

Good luck bud and if you find anything interesting plz let us know.









FF


----------



## Kimir

More like, the more populated slots and/or the higher density modules used is going to be harder for the IMC.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Its a quad channel mobo so one would think Intels IMC is set up for quad channel regardless of overclock ......... if your overclocking and having stability issues regardless of dual or quad ch configuration its comes down to not enough vcore / volts


----------



## Madmaxneo

Right now I am not sure what I am going to do, especially since money is so tight right now.

So, anyone have any extra gigahertz or even a few megahertz they can pass on to me? Oh and they need to be for a 4930k!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Right now I am not sure what I am going to do, especially since money is so tight right now.
> 
> So, anyone have any extra gigahertz or even a few megahertz they can pass on to me? Oh and they need to be for a 4930k!


Buddy I am sorry to tell you it looks like you did lose the Silicone Lottery!!! you can get about 75% the price of a new one selling it here!! Just the matter if you are willing to take the lose this to take another chance. nothing wrong with your over clocks!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Buddy I am sorry to tell you it looks like you did lose the Silicone Lottery!!! you can get about 75% the price of a new one selling it here!! Just the matter if you are willing to take the lose this to take another chance. nothing wrong with your over clocks!!!


You've said that like 6 times so far... you trying to make me cry, cause it's working....lol...

I'm good with this chip for now. If anything I'll wait a while and get one when the prices drop a few hundred. But now that I know to look out for certain things I can plan better when going for my next gen build!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You've said that like 6 times so far... you trying to make me cry, cause it's working....lol...
> 
> I'm good with this chip for now. If anything I'll wait a while and get one when the prices drop a few hundred. But now that I know to look out for certain things I can plan better when going for my next gen build!


Sorry but nothing wrong with what you have enjoy and play your heart out!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sorry but nothing wrong with what you have enjoy and play your heart out!!!


I was joking, mostly picking your repetitiveness....
Don't worry I am very much playing my heart out! Though now I am in need a graphics card upgrade......but that's another story.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You've said that like 6 times so far... you trying to make me cry, cause it's working....lol...
> 
> I'm good with this chip for now. If anything I'll wait a while and get one when the prices drop a few hundred. But now that I know to look out for certain things I can plan better when going for my next gen build!


Well, something you might consider doing, is selling the processor you have now (did you purchase it new? If so, is it still within the return period, depending on where you purchased it you might be able to get a full refund), and buying a used 4820K on eBay, and using that until someone posts on here with a solid overclocking 4930K. That is what I did... I got my 4820K for $225, and I was lucky enough that it would overclock to 4.7GHz with an H100, that sucker was a BEAST! Then, when a fella posted a 4930K for a good price of $400 (my budget was $450), and said it could hit 4.4GHz at low voltages, I jumped on the deal! I sold my 4820K right after I bought the 4930K, and when all was said and done, I made $75 on the deal!!! Which made it possible for me to purchase my 2xMCP35x pumps, and the MCP35x2 pump top! So, if you are patient, and willing to take a 'downgrade' for a little while (Just to be clear, between the two processors, I have never noticed a single difference in everyday use. The only time I have ever noticed, and it was a small difference, was processing a TON of photographic filters in Photoshop, and when I was transcoding videos, but even then, the performance difference wasn't vastly significant, and certainly enough for me to deal with for several months while I waited for a good chip to jump on...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I was joking, mostly picking your repetitiveness....
> Don't worry I am very much playing my heart out! Though now I am in need a graphics card upgrade......but that's another story.


Well, depending on what you are interested in regarding a graphics card, I have a pretty fantastic 970 G1 Gaming that I am looking to switch out for a 980Ti in the coming weeks... Let me know if you might be interested.

FISHCHOPS!!!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Just to reiterate what's already been said here, everybody is correct in that more ram is potentially LESS stable. It's simple: your chip needs voltage to regulate the IMC, the more memory it has to control, the harder it has to work and the more voltage it needs.

Also, I'm not so sure about quad-channel being "slightly faster" than dual. It was explained to me quite in depth some time ago that quad channel is actually ever-so-slightly SLOWER than dual channel, because ram does not operate in parallel, so it actually takes extra milliseconds to address 4 channels than it takes to address 2. But I wouldn't swear to that, I've never actually done the testing.

Madmaxneo - As to losing the silicon lottery, iirc you were clocking around 4.4ghz, right? I'd leave well enough alone if it were me personally. But if you're really dissatisfied with it, register for the Intel Precision Tuning Plan and just have Intel replace it. Try your luck again.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I have a pretty fantastic 970 G1 Gaming that I am looking to switch out for a 980Ti in the coming weeks... Let me know if you might be interested.
> 
> FISHCHOPS!!!


That 980ti is *sexy* (for that matter, the R9 390x looks pretty bad-ass too at half the price). I'd totally be upgrading now if it didn't involve replacing waterblocks and breaking apart my whole system to do so. I'm holding out for Pascal next year.... I figure by then I'll be ready to ditch 3d and go 4K instead, and I'll need the extra power. I'm *terribly* jealous of 980ti owners right now, though! lol


----------



## thespoon

Dear all,
I'm Italian, sorry for my English!

I'm new in this forum and in the world of overclocking, I hope this is the right thread.
I would like to have your opinion about my overclock configuration, my hardware is the following:

Case: Sunbeam Ultra-Tech Station Acrylic Bench Table
MB: Rampage IV Black Edition
Cpu: Intel I7 4930K
Cpu cooling: Corsair Hydro H110
Ram: 32 Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum CL10 2400
Gpu: 3xSLI Asus GeForce GTX 780Ti DirectCUII
SSD: 2xSamsung 840pro 256GB (Raid0)
HD: WD Black 2tb
PS: Corsair AX 1200i

Here below are my BIOS settings and LinX print screen taken during and after the stress test.

I wouldn't want an "exagerate" overclock, 4,5Ghz is perfect for me. I'm a player, I'd like to have a stable overclock without damaging the hardware over the time.
May you please check that these settings are good? Do you have any suggestion?

I have some dubts about the stress test temperature of my CPU, and the CPU Vcore (1,408V in Idle, 1.424V during the stress test with a rare peak activity of 1.440V).

Thanks in advance for your help


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thespoon*
> 
> Dear all,
> I'm Italian, sorry for my English!
> 
> I'm new in this forum and in the world of overclocking, I hope this is the right thread.
> I would like to have your opinion about my overclock configuration, my hardware is the following:
> 
> Case: Sunbeam Ultra-Tech Station Acrylic Bench Table
> MB: Rampage IV Black Edition
> Cpu: Intel I7 4930K
> Cpu cooling: Corsair Hydro H110
> Ram: 32 Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum CL10 2400
> Gpu: 3xSLI Asus GeForce GTX 780Ti DirectCUII
> SSD: 2xSamsung 840pro 256GB (Raid0)
> HD: WD Black 2tb
> PS: Corsair AX 1200i
> 
> Here below are my BIOS settings and LinX print screen taken during and after the stress test.
> 
> I wouldn't want an "exagerate" overclock, 4,5Ghz is perfect for me. I'm a player, I'd like to have a stable overclock without damaging the hardware over the time.
> May you please check that these settings are good? Do you have any suggestion?
> 
> I have some dubts about the stress test temperature of my CPU, and the CPU Vcore (1,408V in Idle, 1.424V during the stress test with a rare peak activity of 1.440V).
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If I was you I would see if I could get the voltage down as I think anything above 1.4 you will start degrading the CPU. you should be able to get 4.5 at 1.35 .

I would start at this voltage and check for stability and go up .05 until it was stable if it gets above 1.4 then go to a 4.4 over clock and get your voltage down...


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thespoon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Dear all,
> I'm Italian, sorry for my English!
> 
> I'm new in this forum and in the world of overclocking, I hope this is the right thread.
> I would like to have your opinion about my overclock configuration, my hardware is the following:
> 
> Case: Sunbeam Ultra-Tech Station Acrylic Bench Table
> MB: Rampage IV Black Edition
> Cpu: Intel I7 4930K
> Cpu cooling: Corsair Hydro H110
> Ram: 32 Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum CL10 2400
> Gpu: 3xSLI Asus GeForce GTX 780Ti DirectCUII
> SSD: 2xSamsung 840pro 256GB (Raid0)
> HD: WD Black 2tb
> PS: Corsair AX 1200i
> 
> Here below are my BIOS settings and LinX print screen taken during and after the stress test.
> 
> I wouldn't want an "exagerate" overclock, 4,5Ghz is perfect for me. I'm a player, I'd like to have a stable overclock without damaging the hardware over the time.
> May you please check that these settings are good? Do you have any suggestion?
> 
> I have some dubts about the stress test temperature of my CPU, and the CPU Vcore (1,408V in Idle, 1.424V during the stress test with a rare peak activity of 1.440V).
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help


Awefully high temperatures, 85C+ on average?









1,4 volts at 4,5 Ghz is quite bad, the first thing that could be smart to do is dial your RAM-speed back to 1866Mhz and take it up again to 2400Mhz after you have gotten the overclock on the CPU that you want. The smart way of doing overclocking is to start with the CPU, get a stable CPU overclock, then go to the memory, then GPU's.

If you do not want to do that, follow what I write below this line.

I would start off at the settings you are currently using, then dial back the core voltage on your CPU by 0.05 volts, stess-test for 2 hours and if that pass, dial it back 0.05 volts more, keep on going until it crash, then dial back 0.05 volts, then I would run stress-testing a bit longer (like 4-5 hours). The only real way to find out if it is stable is by using the computer to what you are going to use it for, then if/when it crashes crank up the voltage by 0.05 volts. I would advise against running over 1,4 volts, I would say stay underneath 70C for 24/7 usage.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thespoon*
> 
> Dear all,
> I'm Italian, sorry for my English!
> 
> I'm new in this forum and in the world of overclocking, I hope this is the right thread.
> I would like to have your opinion about my overclock configuration, my hardware is the following:
> 
> Case: Sunbeam Ultra-Tech Station Acrylic Bench Table
> MB: Rampage IV Black Edition
> Cpu: Intel I7 4930K
> Cpu cooling: Corsair Hydro H110
> Ram: 32 Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum CL10 2400
> Gpu: 3xSLI Asus GeForce GTX 780Ti DirectCUII
> SSD: 2xSamsung 840pro 256GB (Raid0)
> HD: WD Black 2tb
> PS: Corsair AX 1200i
> 
> Here below are my BIOS settings and LinX print screen taken during and after the stress test.
> 
> I wouldn't want an "exagerate" overclock, 4,5Ghz is perfect for me. I'm a player, I'd like to have a stable overclock without damaging the hardware over the time.
> May you please check that these settings are good? Do you have any suggestion?
> 
> I have some dubts about the stress test temperature of my CPU, and the CPU Vcore (1,408V in Idle, 1.424V during the stress test with a rare peak activity of 1.440V).
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help






To reiterate just in case: The high vcore and high temps you are running are very bad for your CPU. Running at those voltages and temps will degrade your CPU at a very fast rate. Basically your CPU will not last long under those conditions. I would back it down just to be on the safe side.


----------



## seross69

My Over Clock 4.6ghz at 1.31v



But the funny thing is to get 4.7 I have to use 1.41 v and that is just too much for me


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> My Over Clock 4.6ghz at 1.31v
> 
> 
> 
> But the funny thing is to get 4.7 I have to use 1.41 v and that is just too much for me


Practically identical to my chip, except for *sustained* stability I need to raise it to 1.344v.... Prime will crash my system at 1.316v after 5 minutes.

Same for me, re: 4.7ghz too. 1.416v is "bench stable"....mostly. http://valid.canardpc.com/7j4sww


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> My Over Clock 4.6ghz at 1.31v
> 
> 
> 
> But the funny thing is to get 4.7 I have to use 1.41 v and that is just too much for me


Is that with the RIVBE MB?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Is that with the RIVBE MB?


Yes of course it is with the RIVE BE with 64 GB 2400Mhz memory

water temps at 24.5 and room temps at 24


----------



## thespoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Awefully high temperatures, 85C+ on average?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1,4 volts at 4,5 Ghz is quite bad, the first thing that could be smart to do is dial your RAM-speed back to 1866Mhz and take it up again to 2400Mhz after you have gotten the overclock on the CPU that you want. The smart way of doing overclocking is to start with the CPU, get a stable CPU overclock, then go to the memory, then GPU's.
> 
> If you do not want to do that, follow what I write below this line.
> 
> I would start off at the settings you are currently using, then dial back the core voltage on your CPU by 0.05 volts, stess-test for 2 hours and if that pass, dial it back 0.05 volts more, keep on going until it crash, then dial back 0.05 volts, then I would run stress-testing a bit longer (like 4-5 hours). The only real way to find out if it is stable is by using the computer to what you are going to use it for, then if/when it crashes crank up the voltage by 0.05 volts. I would advise against running over 1,4 volts, I would say stay underneath 70C for 24/7 usage.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If I was you I would see if I could get the voltage down as I think anything above 1.4 you will start degrading the CPU. you should be able to get 4.5 at 1.35 .
> 
> I would start at this voltage and check for stability and go up .05 until it was stable if it gets above 1.4 then go to a 4.4 over clock and get your voltage down...


I tried to get 4.5 at v1.37 but it chashed after 5 minutes of stress test and CPU temperature was already at 90C. To high for a 24/7 usage.
So I go to 4.4 and, after some tests I found a compromise: v1.296 / 30C in idle, v1.312 under stress test with 68C of CPU temperature (Cores between 69C and 78C). What do you think about these temperature? Are they appropriate for a 24/7 usage?

What's the temperature I have to look, the cpu or the cores one?

If I want lower temperature, I have to go to 4.3 v1.26, so I have 58C MAX in stress test.
Thank you


----------



## seross69

You look at each core and want the highest one to be below 70c. You temps seem ok to me because you will not load cpu up in normal use like you do stress testing. What cpu cooler do you have


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thespoon*
> 
> I tried to get 4.5 at v1.37 but it chashed after 5 minutes of stress test and CPU temperature was already at 90C. To high for a 24/7 usage.
> So I go to 4.4 and, after some tests I found a compromise: v1.296 / 30C in idle, v1.312 under stress test with 68C of CPU temperature (Cores between 69C and 78C). What do you think about these temperature? Are they appropriate for a 24/7 usage?
> 
> What's the temperature I have to look, the cpu or the cores one?
> 
> If I want lower temperature, I have to go to 4.3 v1.26, so I have 58C MAX in stress test.
> Thank you


See above answer


----------



## thespoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You look at each core and want the highest one to be below 70c. You temps seem ok to me because you will not load cpu up in normal use like you do stress testing. What cpu cooler do you have


I have a Corsair Hydro H110


----------



## Kimir

Some cpu are just bad, just saying.
I had a 4930K that did [email protected], wasn't really happy so I used the intel tuning plan. Replacement can only do [email protected] and need as much as 1.48v to do 4.6Ghz, and that's not even stability tested, only enough voltage to pass 3DMark11/Firestrike.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ha, I never knew about the intel tuning plan. If I could get a chip that will do 4.5ghz @ 1.4 vcore I would be very happy!
I am signing up for it right now!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thespoon*
> 
> I have a Corsair Hydro H110


If that is your cooler something is wrong!! Need to check your mount because mine does not get above 40 c with a custom loop at 1.312 volts and 4.6ghz!!! At the same volts and lower clock you should not be getting that hot!!!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thespoon*
> 
> I tried to get 4.5 at v1.37 but it chashed after 5 minutes of stress test and CPU temperature was already at 90C. To high for a 24/7 usage.
> So I go to 4.4 and, after some tests I found a compromise: v1.296 / 30C in idle, v1.312 under stress test with 68C of CPU temperature (Cores between 69C and 78C). What do you think about these temperature? Are they appropriate for a 24/7 usage?
> 
> What's the temperature I have to look, the cpu or the cores one?
> 
> If I want lower temperature, I have to go to 4.3 v1.26, so I have 58C MAX in stress test.
> Thank you


I would advise you to look for a better overclocking chip (buy a second hand chip like I did)









78C of one of the cores is still too much in my mind, I tested 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38 volts on my chip, two cores went to 72C after two hours of stress-testing. For me personally, I think 72C also is too much. I ran my old 3930K around 70-75C, but I did not really care for that chip, so if you want your chip to last a while dial back the overclock untill you find something that is a little colder. OR get better cooling for your CPU.

Do 4,3 Ghz @ 1,26 volts if you have that stable, no real reason to keep pushing for high overclocks unless you are bottlenecking some other hardware.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I just reread my last post... What a total nerdgasm I was having there... Suchadork.


Where you been hiding at????


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> ha, I never knew about the intel tuning plan. If I could get a chip that will do 4.5ghz @ 1.4 vcore I would be very happy!
> I am signing up for it right now!


Just as a fair warning, the tuning plan is far from glitter and gold! I have seen more bad stories of woes and disaster than I have happiness in a bucket of ice cream.

Just be absolutely CERTAIN that you have duplicates of EVERYTHING, take photographs of your retail packaging and the serial number and barcodes there, as well as the CPU itself, both sides, and be certain that the text on the IHS is actually legible,, and be sure you retain a physical copy of your purchase order, as well as receipts of that just in case...

I had thought about getting the plan, but between the problem some people have with it, and the fact that in the last *insert ridiculous number of years here*, and have never once had a CPU fail ever, so historically it is not the best financial decision I could make.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Where you been hiding at????


In the happy, peaceful land of PMville.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Just as a fair warning, the tuning plan is far from glitter and gold! I have seen more bad stories of woes and disaster than I have happiness in a bucket of ice cream.
> 
> Just be absolutely CERTAIN that you have duplicates of EVERYTHING, take photographs of your retail packaging and the serial number and barcodes there, as well as the CPU itself, both sides, and be certain that the text on the IHS is actually legible,, and be sure you retain a physical copy of your purchase order, as well as receipts of that just in case...
> 
> I had thought about getting the plan, but between the problem some people have with it, and the fact that in the last *insert ridiculous number of years here*, and have never once had a CPU fail ever, so historically it is not the best financial decision I could make.


Well I have a much better chance of getting a much better CPU than the one I have. I purchased my 4930k from Amazon so getting the purchase info is no problem. Though I do not have the box anymore (who keeps those hoarders?...lol).
I wonder if that would be a problem?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well I have a much better chance of getting a much better CPU than the one I have. I purchased my 4930k from Amazon so getting the purchase info is no problem. Though I do not have the box anymore (who keeps those hoarders?...lol).
> I wonder if that would be a problem?


Return it through Amazon maybe? I don't think they would mind.

But I just feel like it's splitting hairs. The difference between even 4.4Ghz and 4.9 is totally underwhelming--especially outside of benchmarks when it would be completely negligible.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Return it through Amazon maybe? I don't think they would mind.
> 
> But I just feel like it's splitting hairs. The difference between even 4.4Ghz and 4.9 is totally underwhelming--especially outside of benchmarks when it would be completely negligible.


The CPU still runs fine, but has a low average OC ability. I am not sure Amazon would replace it.
BTW what is that webpage that shows the numbers of which CPU's are the better OCers?


----------



## PachAz

Exactly what are the physical differances betwen the rampage iv extreme and the black edition? Would a black edition waterblock fit on the regular rampage iv extreme, that is something I always wondered about.?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well I have a much better chance of getting a much better CPU than the one I have. I purchased my 4930k from Amazon so getting the purchase info is no problem. Though I do not have the box anymore (who keeps those hoarders?...lol).
> I wonder if that would be a problem?


Well, your math is flawed if you think you are more likely to get a better processor than what you have... What you have is an average processor, and by average, we are not talking the 50% kind of average, we are talking the 90% kind of average, and that only the processors closest to the center of the wafer perform any better, and unfortunately, every processor that does perform that well at the center of the wafer is going to be designated as a 4960X, Intel specifically does it this way so that the likelihood of you getting a 4960X grade processor from a 4930K (less the cache), is as close to zero as possible... This is why they can charge $1,000 for the highest-end CPU, because the yields on them are so incredibly low, that they effectively have to charge that much.

Anyhow, I had a long description of the basic principles of why the 4930K processors hit 4.4GHz pretty easily, but then to go past that takes not only a LOT more power than it took to get to 4.4GHz, but also a special chip that is even capable of it...

So, since I am guessing you are not spending much time in the Ivy Bridge-e and 4930K owners clubs, I strongly suggest you take a venture on over there, and see what they say about your goal... I am thinking they are going to give you 1 of 2 suggestions, number 1 - To crank your voltage up to 1.45v, and see how it does there (The processors WILL survive at this voltage, but it will also reduce the lifespan of most units - although not probably enough ton kill it before you upgrade in two years), and number 2 - Wait until someone posts a 4930K in the marketplace that clocks well, and expect to pay abouit $500-600 for a used 4930K that gives you an extra 100-200MHz...

I kept it short compared to what is in my mind.

All that I can do at this point, is bid you good luck... It pains me to see this, as everyone has been telling you it just isn't going to happen the way you want, and you simply refuse to accept that. lol Everyone was telling you that your processor wasn't going to make it to 4.5GHz stable (including me), and yet how many hours did we spend (waste - lol) going against the reality of the situation...? Too many, that is how many... 

I wish for you the best of luck in your blind 'search' (can it be called a search when probability is against you, and someone else is selecting the part you receive, based on how close it is to their hand so that they can expend the least amount of energy possible putting your replacement CPU in a cardboard box. lol The odds are moving further and further from your favor.

****That being said, I can genuinely say that I do admire you tenacity!!! You crazy, crazy man!****


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Well, your math is flawed if you think you are more likely to get a better processor than what you have... What you have is an average processor, and by average, we are not talking the 50% kind of average, we are talking the 90% kind of average, and that only the processors closest to the center of the wafer perform any better, and unfortunately, every processor that does perform that well at the center of the wafer is going to be designated as a 4960X, Intel specifically does it this way so that the likelihood of you getting a 4960X grade processor from a 4930K (less the cache), is as close to zero as possible... This is why they can charge $1,000 for the highest-end CPU, because the yields on them are so incredibly low, that they effectively have to charge that much.
> 
> Anyhow, I had a long description of the basic principles of why the 4930K processors hit 4.4GHz pretty easily, but then to go past that takes not only a LOT more power than it took to get to 4.4GHz, but also a special chip that is even capable of it...
> 
> So, since I am guessing you are not spending much time in the Ivy Bridge-e and 4930K owners clubs, I strongly suggest you take a venture on over there, and see what they say about your goal... I am thinking they are going to give you 1 of 2 suggestions, number 1 - To crank your voltage up to 1.45v, and see how it does there (The processors WILL survive at this voltage, but it will also reduce the lifespan of most units - although not probably enough ton kill it before you upgrade in two years), and number 2 - Wait until someone posts a 4930K in the marketplace that clocks well, and expect to pay abouit $500-600 for a used 4930K that gives you an extra 100-200MHz...
> 
> I kept it short compared to what is in my mind.
> 
> All that I can do at this point, is bid you good luck... It pains me to see this, as everyone has been telling you it just isn't going to happen the way you want, and you simply refuse to accept that. lol Everyone was telling you that your processor wasn't going to make it to 4.5GHz stable (including me), and yet how many hours did we spend (waste - lol) going against the reality of the situation...? Too many, that is how many...
> 
> I wish for you the best of luck in your blind 'search' (can it be called a search when probability is against you, and someone else is selecting the part you receive, based on how close it is to their hand so that they can expend the least amount of energy possible putting your replacement CPU in a cardboard box. lol The odds are moving further and further from your favor.
> 
> ****That being said, I can genuinely say that I do admire you tenacity!!! You crazy, crazy man!****


Your logic is flawed my good man...
First if you don't remember I can't hit a stable 4.4 ghz, so if on average the 4930k's can hit a stable 4.4ghz as you suggest then I have a better chance with using the intel program and getting an average CPU.
For one I have been on at least two other boards on here looking for advice and a lot of people just don't respond. I had one give me a video that talked about sandy e chips and as I told him I went down that route and it hasn't helped, no response as as of yet. For another I am NOT going against the reality of the situation. How is it you say that? I am looking in a different direction to maybe have a chance of getting a better chip, and your the only one who has said anything bad about the intel program... most others don't say anything about it. Oh and there is one other person (I forget where) who did the same thing I am thinking of and though he got a worse chip than what he had but he was still able to hit a higher stable OC than I was. I also do not need to have a failed chip to get mine replaced.
For another I have recently discovered someone on these boards that has a 4930k and had a similar problem as mine, only he couldn't even hit a stable 4.3ghz, but with some tweaks he is now at a stable 4.5ghz (I think) with a decent vcore. What he did was lower some of the stock voltages in some other areas... though I am not sure which ones. I asked a question with a quote by him but no response as of yet.

Another thing I am learning is that it is very important to keep the MB components cool, that XPSC cooler I'd like to install cools the parts I have seen a couple videos on that says to keep them cool.

I'd like to know why your so negative? Because apparently I haven't even tried but a small part of the things I can do to try and reach a higher OC.... your telling me to stop and all is hopeless.
I am more positive than that (despite everything) and I don't give up so easily. I have not really spent a lot of time trying to push this chip, I do what people recommend and try it then try some things myself and sometimes they work but never over 4.3ghz...
I have tried what you guys on here have recommended but what you all have told me on here is just the basics, so why can't I try something more advanced?
The funny thing is I am now seeing a lot of people that have pushed their chips to 4.5ghz but with a 1.44 vcore because that is what they wanted. Though I'm not that idiotic I would like to know how long they ran their chips like that before they started to see problems.


----------



## xarot

My 4960X does 4.4 at 1.27 V and 4.5 at 1.36 V and I think it's quite average. I never got it stable at 4.6 and cannot even bench at 4.7, I think reached a point where the extra voltage just does nothing. But what does another 100 MHz really matter - for gaming even less.









About tuning plan...I used a tuning plan with my newer 5960X and ended up getting a LOT better chip this time with max. bootable frequency 300 MHz higher with less voltage. Don't know what success people have had with 49xx processors though, as usually they hit their cap at 4.5 - 4.6 GHz.


----------



## Kimir

If bought on Amazon, try your luck with them first, if replacement isn't any better, try the tuning plan.
But in the end, it's only a matter of silicon lottery. (which I seems to be losing at, every time)


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well I have a much better chance of getting a much better CPU than the one I have. I purchased my 4930k from Amazon so getting the purchase info is no problem. Though I do not have the box anymore (who keeps those hoarders?...lol).
> I wonder if that would be a problem?


No reason to get a better overclocking chip unless the chip you already got bottleneck some of your hardware. You will not be able to do 4-way SLI/Crossfire on that chip, I need 4,7 Ghz not to bottleneck quadfire R9 290X (at stock clocks), I think the same thing is the deal if you decide to go that route. It will also be bottlenecked in 3-way SLI/Crossfire with newer GPU's. So the bottom line is, if you plan on using up to three cards (without voltage modded GPU's) you will probably be fine with the chip you have. Benchmarking is another story, but for benchmarking the new Haswell-E is getting better scores than IVY-E anyways.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> Exactly what are the physical differances betwen the rampage iv extreme and the black edition? Would a black edition waterblock fit on the regular rampage iv extreme, that is something I always wondered about.?


Perhaps it works, I have read somewhere that the old EK-R4E block do work on the RIVBE (that way you could keep the "ROG-logo" with the red light), never tried it myself though. So, out from that it the EK-FB R4BE should work on the RIVE, but as I said I have not tried it so I am not sure. I am doing a little rebuild of my loop in a short while (3-4 weeks) and I could take of my block and measure out the distance from each hole for the fastening of the blocks for you. Then you could do the same and you will find out if it will fit or not.









Do not quote me on it, but I think it will work. EK-FB ASUS R4BE, check the third picture and this picture


Spoiler: this picture







Do it on your own risk though.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I would advise you to look for a better overclocking chip (buy a second hand chip like I did)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 78C of one of the cores is still too much in my mind, I tested 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38 volts on my chip, two cores went to 72C after two hours of stress-testing. For me personally, I think 72C also is too much. I ran my old 3930K around 70-75C, but I did not really care for that chip, so if you want your chip to last a while dial back the overclock untill you find something that is a little colder. OR get better cooling for your CPU.
> 
> Do 4,3 Ghz @ 1,26 volts if you have that stable, no real reason to keep pushing for high overclocks unless you are bottlenecking some other hardware.


4.9 @ 1.38v? Ivy Bridge-e? Sorry, but with all due respect, screenshots or it didn't happen.

And even if it did happen, that's a totally unrealistic expectation to put out there for anybody else. Such a chip would be literally one in ten million.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> If bought on Amazon, try your luck with them first, if replacement isn't any better, try the tuning plan.
> But in the end, it's only a matter of silicon lottery. (which I seems to be losing at, every time)


That's good advice.... Amazon's return policy is ridiculously liberal, if you bought it on Amazon try reporting to them that it's "unstable" (just dont elaborate. lol)

Also worth noting, the Intel Tuning Plan replacement chips by-and-large seem to be low performers, so don't go getting your hopes up for one that will do more than 4.4ghz (which, as I keep telling you, is a perfectly respectable overclock)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> 4.9 @ 1.38v? Ivy Bridge-e? Sorry, but with all due respect, screenshots or it didn't happen.
> 
> And even if it did happen, that's a totally unrealistic expectation to put out there for anybody else. Such a chip would be literally one in ten million.
> That's good advice.... Amazon's return policy is ridiculously liberal, if you bought it on Amazon try reporting to them that it's "unstable" (just dont elaborate. lol)
> 
> Also worth noting, the Intel Tuning Plan replacement chips by-and-large seem to be low performers, so don't go getting your hopes up for one that will do more than 4.4ghz (which, as I keep telling you, is a perfectly respectable overclock)


And as I keep saying, a stable 4.4 would be awesome! I wish I could reach it!!!
which also means that 4.3 is not as respectable.......


----------



## Madmaxneo

Anyone here check out the new Radeon releases on Newegg? They have the 8gb SAPPHIRE NITRO for only $329.00. I wonder how well they perform along with heat and noise specs... I also wonder if these will cause nVidia to drop their prices?

Anyone know of any site that has done some pre-testing on these cards?

I've checked and could only find reviews from a month or more ago.....


----------



## PachAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> No reason to get a better overclocking chip unless the chip you already got bottleneck some of your hardware. You will not be able to do 4-way SLI/Crossfire on that chip, I need 4,7 Ghz not to bottleneck quadfire R9 290X (at stock clocks), I think the same thing is the deal if you decide to go that route. It will also be bottlenecked in 3-way SLI/Crossfire with newer GPU's. So the bottom line is, if you plan on using up to three cards (without voltage modded GPU's) you will probably be fine with the chip you have. Benchmarking is another story, but for benchmarking the new Haswell-E is getting better scores than IVY-E anyways.
> Perhaps it works, I have read somewhere that the old EK-R4E block do work on the RIVBE (that way you could keep the "ROG-logo" with the red light), never tried it myself though. So, out from that it the EK-FB R4BE should work on the RIVE, but as I said I have not tried it so I am not sure. I am doing a little rebuild of my loop in a short while (3-4 weeks) and I could take of my block and measure out the distance from each hole for the fastening of the blocks for you. Then you could do the same and you will find out if it will fit or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do not quote me on it, but I think it will work. EK-FB ASUS R4BE, check the third picture and this picture
> 
> 
> Spoiler: this picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do it on your own risk though.


Yes you can do that, maybe other people will benefit since the original R4E blocks are discountinued mostly.


----------



## Madmaxneo

So I think I found the batch number for my cpu... I got this number from my receipt BX80633I74930K, of which I think the batch number is 3317B806, but I can't find anything on that number. Anyone know where I might be able to find a complete list of batch numbers and their respective averages?
I did a google search and came up with nothing, even when entering that number.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> And as I keep saying, a stable 4.4 would be awesome! I wish I could reach it!!!
> which also means that 4.3 is not as respectable.......


Ah, sorry, I must be confusing who has which chip in this thread. lol Yeah, 4.3 is kinda bad if that's the best it can do under 1.4v, that puts it at the very bottom of the spectrum. Hit up Intel for a IPTP replacement and try your luck again.... you can't do worse than 4.3 (I've never heard of one that maxed out at 4.2)


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> 4.9 @ 1.38v? Ivy Bridge-e? Sorry, but with all due respect, screenshots or it didn't happen.
> 
> And even if it did happen, that's a totally unrealistic expectation to put out there for anybody else. Such a chip would be literally one in ten million.


4930K: 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38v. I have posted pics of it earlier in this thread, the CPU has been benched at 5 Ghz @ 1,424 volts. It also do 4,895 @ 1,36 volt, 4,8 Ghz @ 1,34, 4,7 Ghz @ 1,3 volt, 4,5 Ghz @ 1,2 volt all with RAM-speeds from 1866Mhz to 2666Mhz (4x 4GB sticks of RAM). I paid 630 USD for it second hand and have yet to regret it. I could have gotten a new chip for about 610 USD just in comparison. You do not get a chip like that for free.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







And this chip is not a normal chip, it is a golden sample and as far as I know all the owners of it have paid the same amount of money for it. I bought it cause my 3930K was bottlenecking my quadfire r9 290x, with this chip at 4,7 Ghz that problem got solved.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> Yes you can do that, maybe other people will benefit since the original R4E blocks are discountinued mostly.


I can do what? Measure out the holes for you?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> 4930K: 4,9 Ghz @ 1,38v. I have posted pics of it earlier in this thread, the CPU has been benched at 5 Ghz @ 1,424 volts. It also do 4,895 @ 1,36 volt, 4,8 Ghz @ 1,34, 4,7 Ghz @ 1,3 volt, 4,5 Ghz @ 1,2 volt all with RAM-speeds from 1866Mhz to 2666Mhz (4x 4GB sticks of RAM). I paid 630 USD for it second hand and have yet to regret it. I could have gotten a new chip for about 610 USD just in comparison. You do not get a chip like that for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: if you don't believe me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this chip is not a normal chip, it is a golden sample and as far as I know all the owners of it have paid the same amount of money for it. I bought it cause my 3930K was bottlenecking my quadfire r9 290x, with this chip at 4,7 Ghz that problem got solved.
> I can do what? Measure out the holes for you?


Did you lower any of your other stock voltages to get those numbers or is that just by adjusting the vcore and increasing the base multiplier? If so which ones? I understand I will not be able to reach those numbers (or anywhere close) but I am curious because I have heard that for people to get high OC's like that on this chip they have to lower some of the other stock voltages.

I am trying to learn and all....

Edit: I see your also running windows 7. Which makes me curious as to what OS everyone else is running with decent OC's.

So what OS are you all running with your 4.4ghz or higher OCs?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Did you lower any of your other stock voltages to get those numbers or is that just by adjusting the vcore and increasing the base multiplier? If so which ones? I understand I will not be able to reach those numbers (or anywhere close) but I am curious because I have heard that for people to get high OC's like that on this chip they have to lower some of the other stock voltages.
> 
> I am trying to learn and all....
> 
> Edit: I see your also running windows 7. Which makes me curious as to what OS everyone else is running with decent OC's.
> 
> So what OS are you all running with your 4.4ghz or higher OCs?


In the first post I posted to you with all my bios-settings you can see all of it, I only change multiplier and vcore voltage for overclocks between 4,5 Ghz and 4,9 Ghz, probably even 5 Ghz if I would want that. Everything in my bios down to LCC calibration and everything could as well work for you to get better voltage at your current multiplier on your chip. I said it back then and I say it yet again, change your settings to every setting I have in those screen-shots and you are a long way of getting a stable overclock. I have done a lot of work to get my bios like that, many restarts, many failures and a lot of trying, if I had gotten those settings that early I would have loved it, because it would have saved me a lot of time (many hours). I bought my chip from a OCN-member with RIVBE, he helped me setting up my settings for this chip exact (he is a lot more experienced than me). From him to me, from me to you. You should try it, every setting, not only the first bios-screen, you asked after LCC in a later post which I tried to explain to you many posts before. If you wonder on anything else, send me PM, I get a little frustrated trying to tell you the same thing many times.









In any situation, it is smart to start off with your RAM at 1600/1866Mhz, 1,5 volts and timings that should be stable. Therefor I use 1866Mhz and I do not notice the difference from 1866Mhz to 2333Mhz either way, so I run 1866Mhz for the simplicity of things. Which type of RAM does not really matter, I have used my RAM-settings on two different RAM-sets and it has worked both times, might be different with 32GB (I do not know).

I am running W7 Pro 64-bit due to I got it for free at collage.









The bios does not have anything to do with the operating system, I think. I am planning on upgrading to W10 this summer anyways and I will probably have the same BIOS-settings then.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> In the first post I posted to you with all my bios-settings you can see all of it, I only change multiplier and vcore voltage for overclocks between 4,5 Ghz and 4,9 Ghz, probably even 5 Ghz if I would want that. Everything in my bios down to LCC calibration and everything could as well work for you to get better voltage at your current multiplier on your chip. I said it back then and I say it yet again, change your settings to every setting I have in those screen-shots and you are a long way of getting a stable overclock. I have done a lot of work to get my bios like that, many restarts, many failures and a lot of trying, if I had gotten those settings that early I would have loved it, because it would have saved me a lot of time (many hours). I bought my chip from a OCN-member with RIVBE, he helped me setting up my settings for this chip exact (he is a lot more experienced than me). From him to me, from me to you. You should try it, every setting, not only the first bios-screen, you asked after LCC in a later post which I tried to explain to you many posts before. If you wonder on anything else, send me PM, I get a little frustrated trying to tell you the same thing many times.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In any situation, it is smart to start off with your RAM at 1600/1866Mhz, 1,5 volts and timings that should be stable. Therefor I use 1866Mhz and I do not notice the difference from 1866Mhz to 2333Mhz either way, so I run 1866Mhz for the simplicity of things. Which type of RAM does not really matter, I have used my RAM-settings on two different RAM-sets and it has worked both times, might be different with 32GB (I do not know).
> 
> I am running W7 Pro 64-bit due to I got it for free at collage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bios does not have anything to do with the operating system, I think. I am planning on upgrading to W10 this summer anyways and I will probably have the same BIOS-settings then.


The operating system has nothing to do with overclocking. If it is stable in one it will be stable in all! That is hardware!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> In the first post I posted to you with all my bios-settings you can see all of it, I only change multiplier and vcore voltage for overclocks between 4,5 Ghz and 4,9 Ghz, probably even 5 Ghz if I would want that. Everything in my bios down to LCC calibration and everything could as well work for you to get better voltage at your current multiplier on your chip. I said it back then and I say it yet again, change your settings to every setting I have in those screen-shots and you are a long way of getting a stable overclock. I have done a lot of work to get my bios like that, many restarts, many failures and a lot of trying, if I had gotten those settings that early I would have loved it, because it would have saved me a lot of time (many hours). I bought my chip from a OCN-member with RIVBE, he helped me setting up my settings for this chip exact (he is a lot more experienced than me). From him to me, from me to you. You should try it, every setting, not only the first bios-screen, you asked after LCC in a later post which I tried to explain to you many posts before. If you wonder on anything else, send me PM, I get a little frustrated trying to tell you the same thing many times.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In any situation, it is smart to start off with your RAM at 1600/1866Mhz, 1,5 volts and timings that should be stable. Therefor I use 1866Mhz and I do not notice the difference from 1866Mhz to 2333Mhz either way, so I run 1866Mhz for the simplicity of things. Which type of RAM does not really matter, I have used my RAM-settings on two different RAM-sets and it has worked both times, might be different with 32GB (I do not know).
> 
> I am running W7 Pro 64-bit due to I got it for free at collage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bios does not have anything to do with the operating system, I think. I am planning on upgrading to W10 this summer anyways and I will probably have the same BIOS-settings then.


Yeah I have tried all of that but may go through it again just to see

FYI, I hate to tell you guys this but I have so far seen two people reporting improper voltages when they boot into windows 8 or higher after they have adjusted the voltages in the bios. I think one was on this thread and the other is on Tom's hardware. The guy on Tom's hardware had the same problems as the guy on this thread so I told him about the case here. I believe it has something to do with an update that happened a month or so ago, not sure. I have not heard any updates from either party so I am on the lookout for similar cases......

EDIT: I also noticed that the batch number for my CPU is not listed anywhere and it seems to be an earlier (lower) number. So I don't know what that means


----------



## Kimir

I do have the CPU-z voltage reading on my R4BE not working properly over here too. I don't really care since I'm with manual voltage (not offset) and it's on my bench table, so I can check with my DMM easily.


Spoiler: example






that's what you mean by "reporting improper voltage", right?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I do have the CPU-z voltage reading on my R4BE not working properly over here too. I don't really care since I'm with manual voltage (not offset) and it's on my bench table, so I can check with my DMM easily.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: example
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's what you mean by "reporting improper voltage", right?


Not quite, according to what was reported these people were also suffering stability issues because of the improper reporting by windows. Not sure exactly how that happens but I have seen it twice so far.

That is why I am asking what everyone's OS is that gets a decent OC of 4.4 or greater.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not quite, according to what was reported these people were also suffering stability issues because of the improper reporting by windows. Not sure exactly how that happens but I have seen it twice so far.
> 
> That is why I am asking what everyone's OS is that gets a decent OC of 4.4 or greater.


Win 7 Ultimate 4.6 Ghz at 1.325v


----------



## Kimir

Oh well, I haven't needed to change any bios setting, including vcore, when swapping my bench ssds on w7 and 8.1.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh well, I haven't needed to change any bios setting, including vcore, when swapping my bench ssds on w7 and 8.1.


I don't understand how a operating system can affect the bios as it works at a level below it and should not be able to affect it!!


----------



## seross69

I guess I hit the silicone lottery



CPU 4.6Ghz at 1.325 and



Titan X at 1606 running 24/7 on both!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Neither do but it has affected at least two people. The guy on here said his system and overclocks work fine in windows 7 but not in 8 or the pre 10 version. So something somewhere is amiss.

BTW Congrats on winning the lottery again!
I can't even win at this lottery much less the one that gives money....lol


----------



## xarot

Could be a driver issue or their overclocks were not fully stable in the first place.

It's kind of similar situation where people over CD Projekt Red's forum are complaining that Witcher 3 is 'overly sensitive' game to GPU overclocking. I just think the game is way more demanding than anything else.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The operating system has nothing to do with overclocking. If it is stable in one it will be stable in all! That is hardware!!


That's not necessarily true. In theory, it SHOULD be true, but Windows 8 proved that one OS can be less stable than another at the same exact hardware settings, particularly at boot. There are several configurations that I can get to boot just fine in Windows 7 that will not load in Windows 8. And Windows 10, so far, is proving even more problematic for me.

Don't forget that c-states as well as EIST are governed by OS settings.

Yeah I have tried all of that but may go through it again just to see
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have so far seen two people reporting improper voltages when they boot into windows 8 or higher after they have adjusted the voltages in the bios. I think one was on this thread and the other is on Tom's hardware. The guy on Tom's hardware had the same problems as the guy on this thread so I told him about the case here. I believe it has something to do with an update that happened a month or so ago, not sure. I have not heard any updates from either party so I am on the lookout for similar cases......


That was me (the case here). Could you point me to the case on tomshardware? I've reported it to Asus and to Microsoft, but so far in ever single build of Windows 10 I'm having the same exact problem. At this point I'm chalking it up to an Asus bios or driver incompatibility and just praying they bother to give us an update after W10 goes live. I'd be very curious to read any other reports of the same problem, though -- it seems so far like I'm the only one who's discovered it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> That's not necessarily true. In theory, it SHOULD be true, but Windows 8 proved that one OS can be less stable than another at the same exact hardware settings, particularly at boot. There are several configurations that I can get to boot just fine in Windows 7 that will not load in Windows 8. And Windows 10, so far, is proving even more problematic for me.
> 
> Don't forget that c-states as well as EIST are governed by OS settings.
> 
> That was me (the case here). Could you point me to the case on tomshardware? I've reported it to Asus and to Microsoft, but so far in ever single build of Windows 10 I'm having the same exact problem. At this point I'm chalking it up to an Asus bios or driver incompatibility and just praying they bother to give us an update after W10 goes live. I'd be very curious to read any other reports of the same problem, though -- it seems so far like I'm the only one who's discovered it.


HA, I can never find the posts on Tom's hardware unless there is a new post. So far I have not been able to find any old posts of mine unless I remember the exact title of the thread. Though I think I did private message him. I will check it out and see if he is willing to discuss it with someone else.

The reason I am asking is that I may be having a similar problem as you have seen. Though I haven't used windows 7 on this machine at all. The 8.1 pro I have was purchased specifically for this rig and installed completely fresh. But I also recently discovered that my chips batch number is a lower number (older?) than the batch numbers I could find.

There is a chance others are having the problem but associating it with a poor OC chip. If it is that it is being kept quiet simply because it is easier to blame on a poor chip or poor OC skills. If it is an ASUS bios driver then I hope they realize this and can come out with an update soon and hopefully before windows 10 gets released. But, do they even still work on bios updates for older boards?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The reason I am asking is that I may be having a similar problem as you have seen. Though I haven't used windows 7 on this machine at all. The 8.1 pro I have was purchased specifically for this rig and installed completely fresh. But I also recently discovered that my chips batch number is a lower number (older?) than the batch numbers I could find.
> 
> There is a chance others are having the problem but associating it with a poor OC chip. If it is that it is being kept quiet simply because it is easier to blame on a poor chip or poor OC skills. If it is an ASUS bios driver then I hope they realize this and can come out with an update soon and hopefully before windows 10 gets released. But, do they even still work on bios updates for older boards?


The last update provided for the Black Edition was July 2014, so before X99 came out. Not that it's a particularly big deal -- there's really no good reason to update the chipset or mei, it doesn't give any boost to performance. And one can just as easily get the Broadcom & Intel drivers directly from Broadcom and Intel without relying on Asus to link us to them. But I'm thinking Windows 10 is going to require a bios update, just as Windows 8 did.

It should be easy to test for whether you're seeing the same error I am.... split apart "offset" vcore & "additional turbo voltage". If the system applies BOTH at load, you're not seeing what I am. The problem I'm experiencing in W8.1 & W10 is that the system won't apply any "additional turbo voltage". It's as if the chip goes into Turbo mode, but the os/bios is limited in what it's able to sense and thus it isn't giving it the right voltage. (on-die temperature sensors are borked, too...they read about 10c below actual temps)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Before I started OCing the turbo worked fine as the turbo kicked in quite often with some of the games or programs I run. But I don't know now as I believe that once I set the multiplier the turbo is disabled.

Though I have been having some weird temp readings between the different temp reporting programs I have used. They all seem to vary on average between 4 to 10 degrees in differences on reported temps. I only use two now when I am monitoring temps and they are the OCCT and RealTemp.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Before I started OCing the turbo worked fine as the turbo kicked in quite often with some of the games or programs I run. But I don't know now as I believe that once I set the multiplier the turbo is disabled.
> 
> Though I have been having some weird temp readings between the different temp reporting programs I have used. They all seem to vary on average between 4 to 10 degrees in differences on reported temps. I only use two now when I am monitoring temps and they are the OCCT and RealTemp.


That sounds like it could be the same issue I'm seeing, though it's harder to nail down without a dual-boot OS of Windows 7. I can boot into W7 and clearly see that my vcore and temps are wildly different than those reported in W10, when I've made NO changes to any power or bios settings. It's only because I'm so OCD about my overclock settings, and that I regularly monitor my voltage and temps using AIDA64+Rainmeter that I was able to notice the variance at all. I wouldn't be terribly surprised if more people are experiencing the same issue but just not identifying it because they don't constantly watch their voltage/temps like I do. lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> That sounds like it could be the same issue I'm seeing, though it's harder to nail down without a dual-boot OS of Windows 7. I can boot into W7 and clearly see that my vcore and temps are wildly different than those reported in W10, when I've made NO changes to any power or bios settings. It's only because I'm so OCD about my overclock settings, and that I regularly monitor my voltage and temps using AIDA64+Rainmeter that I was able to notice the variance at all. I wouldn't be terribly surprised if more people are experiencing the same issue but just not identifying it because they don't constantly watch their voltage/temps like I do. lol


I believe this is one situation where it is actually good to be OCD.... lol

I should do a dual boot for windows 7, though I have never done that so I'd have to set aside time to read and go about it

I am wondering how may people this affects and they never realize it........


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I believe this is one situation where it is actually good to be OCD.... lol
> 
> I should do a dual boot for windows 7, though I have never done that so I'd have to set aside time to read and go about it
> 
> I am wondering how may people this affects and they never realize it........


That's what I keep wondering. Common sense tells me it's unlikely I'm actually the only person in the world who has found this problem, but observation would suggest I might be. lol Common sense also tells me it's more likely there's something wrong with my setup than something wrong with Asus or Windows.... but I have been VERY thorough in my troubleshooting, and I just can't escape the conclusion that there's something wrong between either Asus hardware/bios & Windows 10 or between Intel & Windows 10 (and also Windows 8.1 with the latest rollup update).

As for setting up dual boot, it's easy if your os disk is mbr. If it's set up under UEFI (GPT disk) it's a little trickier. Basically, you have to disable Secure Boot, then install Windows 7, then re-enable Secure Boot to get back into Windows 8 and redirect the disk to use the bootmgr using partmagic or some such tool. Private message me if you're actually interested in doing it and I can be more specific, it's kinda tricky, but worth it if you're having serious issues with Windows 8 like I was (and like it sounds like you are)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> That's what I keep wondering. Common sense tells me it's unlikely I'm actually the only person in the world who has found this problem, but observation would suggest I might be. lol Common sense also tells me it's more likely there's something wrong with my setup than something wrong with Asus or Windows.... but I have been VERY thorough in my troubleshooting, and I just can't escape the conclusion that there's something wrong between either Asus hardware/bios & Windows 10 or between Intel & Windows 10 (and also Windows 8.1 with the latest rollup update).
> 
> As for setting up dual boot, it's easy if your os disk is mbr. If it's set up under UEFI (GPT disk) it's a little trickier. Basically, you have to disable Secure Boot, then install Windows 7, then re-enable Secure Boot to get back into Windows 8 and redirect the disk to use the bootmgr using partmagic or some such tool. Private message me if you're actually interested in doing it and I can be more specific, it's kinda tricky, but worth it if you're having serious issues with Windows 8 like I was (and like it sounds like you are)


I am ,sort of, though I have to find the time to do it.


----------



## PachAz

I dont recommend going above 1.34v for these chips. The advantage of these 6 cores is not the OC potential to beginn with.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> I dont recommend going above 1.34v for these chips. The advantage of these 6 cores is not the OC potential to beginn with.


Ha, yeah if that was the case I should just not OC then!....lol. The recommended limit on these chips is 1.4, though there are many people who gone far and above that and their systems run fun. I am not one to take that chance.....


----------



## seross69

Stop gaming i am Laying at the pool looking at pretty girls having a few drinks!! Got steak and lobster to put on grill later!!!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Stop gaming i am Laying at the pool looking at pretty girls having a few drinks!! Got steak and lobster to put on grill later!!!


Unless you have enough to share with the whole class.......


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Unless you have enough to share with the whole class.......


Got enough drinks (2 gallon barcardi select). And lobsters are 5 each


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Got enough drinks (2 gallon barcardi select). And lobsters are 5 each


$5 lobster? I think that's crayfish. lol


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> $5 lobster? I think that's crayfish. lol


No real nice 1/2 pound tails!!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> No real nice 1/2 pound tails!!!!


So why are you posting here?
Oh that's right it's nerd bragging rights...LOL....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So why are you posting here?
> Oh that's right it's nerd bragging rights...LOL....


Lol just multitasking i am married so all i can do is look!!! And have phone with me


----------



## PachAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Lol just multitasking i am married so all i can do is look!!! And have phone with me


What will you do with the phone, film girls?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> What will you do with the phone, film girls?


I am going to leave that alone or i will get in trouble again


----------



## seross69

Was it here where I saw some on looking for blocks for a RIVE original?? if so PM me as I have a brand new set never used!!


----------



## EaglePC

running good win 7 x64 pro room temp 77f , "running 16x NF-F12 iPPC 2000 IP67 PWM fans with the gt110i gtx"


----------



## yttocstfarc

I noticed a few pages back you guys were talking about read writes and posting crystaldiskmark pictures of your results. I have a Samsung 840 EVO 250 does this look like its still GTG I haven't done any firmware updates yet. I had heard that some of the evos were showing performance losses over time. From what i've seen mine is about normal.


----------



## thespoon

I made several tests and found 2 stable configurations:
Config 1
Bios reset, after:
Turbo mode enabled
enhanced Intel speestest disabled
X.M.P with ram at 2400MHz
I core *44*
V core *v1.295.*

Here is a HWmonitor screen while Linx is running:


I have some troubles with cores temperatures, Even if I mount a Corsair H110 I think that temerature are too high.

Config 2:
Bios reset, after:
Turbo mode enabled
enhanced Intel speestest disabled
X.M.P with ram at 2400MHz
I core *43*
V core *v1.235.*

Here is a HWmonitor screen while Linx is running:


I think that this configuration is better then the first one, what do you think?

My hardware is:
RIVE IV BE
4930k + Corsair Hydro
4x8 Corsair dominator platinum 2400MHz
3SLI Gtx 780TI CUII overclocked

Here is a picture:


I use my pc only for game... Any suggestion?
Thank you


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thespoon*
> 
> I made several tests and found 2 stable configurations:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Config 1
> Bios reset, after:
> Turbo mode enabled
> enhanced Intel speestest disabled
> X.M.P with ram at 2400MHz
> I core *44*
> V core *v1.295.*
> 
> Here is a HWmonitor screen while Linx is running:
> 
> 
> I have some troubles with cores temperatures, Even if I mount a Corsair H110 I think that temerature are too high.
> 
> Config 2:
> Bios reset, after:
> Turbo mode enabled
> enhanced Intel speestest disabled
> X.M.P with ram at 2400MHz
> I core *43*
> V core *v1.235.*
> 
> Here is a HWmonitor screen while Linx is running:
> 
> 
> I think that this configuration is better then the first one, what do you think?
> 
> My hardware is:
> RIVE IV BE
> 4930k + Corsair Hydro
> 4x8 Corsair dominator platinum 2400MHz
> 3SLI Gtx 780TI CUII overclocked
> 
> Here is a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> I use my pc only for game... Any suggestion?
> Thank you


Get into custom watercooling, 70+C average is more than I got on 1,38 volts with my chip .... Get a couple of EK-PE 240 or 360 radiators (they are cheap and perform okay), some good fans too and an EK-Supremacy EVO (or something along those lines) and you will achieve much better temperatures and overclocks most likely. Also those GPU's would be better on water as well. It is an expensive route if you are coming from air-cooling, but in the end it is worth it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thespoon*
> 
> I made several tests and found 2 stable configurations:
> Config 1
> Bios reset, after:
> Turbo mode enabled
> enhanced Intel speestest disabled
> X.M.P with ram at 2400MHz
> I core *44*
> V core *v1.295.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a HWmonitor screen while Linx is running:
> 
> 
> I have some troubles with cores temperatures, Even if I mount a Corsair H110 I think that temerature are too high.
> 
> Config 2:
> Bios reset, after:
> Turbo mode enabled
> enhanced Intel speestest disabled
> X.M.P with ram at 2400MHz
> I core *43*
> V core *v1.235.*
> 
> Here is a HWmonitor screen while Linx is running:
> 
> 
> I think that this configuration is better then the first one, what do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> My hardware is:
> RIVE IV BE
> 4930k + Corsair Hydro
> 4x8 Corsair dominator platinum 2400MHz
> 3SLI Gtx 780TI CUII overclocked
> 
> Here is a picture:
> 
> 
> I use my pc only for game... Any suggestion?
> Thank you


Are those temps during a stress test or not? I believe they are normal for during a stress test but if those are you idle temps you might want to check your cooling loop because those temps are way to high for idle temps. If those screenshots your posting are for stress tests then all is good but I don't know those programs


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Was it here where I saw some on looking for blocks for a RIVE original?? if so PM me as I have a brand new set never used!!


Someone had asked if the RIVBE set would fit on the RIVE board......


----------



## thespoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Are those temps during a stress test or not? I believe they are normal for during a stress test but if those are you idle temps you might want to check your cooling loop because those temps are way to high for idle temps. If those screenshots your posting are for stress tests then all is good but I don't know those programs


Yes, those are under stress test.
But I have now a problem with the 3SLI, in 3D, temperatures are 90-100° and my pc reboots.
Watercooling system is required!!
I'm looking at it!


----------



## xarot

Your temps are fine in both cases, LinX & Prime95 heat up these chips more than gaming or anything else. In gaming you probably never break 65c. Also you GFlops are spot on meaning you are very stable. I'd run 5-10 loops just in case. I've gone much hotter than that with my 4960X with no ill effects.

I was going to say are more likely to get temp problems with your GPUs as they are not blower style but you already said it. You'll need to water cool them or remove the middle card.


----------



## thespoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Your temps are fine in both cases, LinX & Prime95 heat up these chips more than gaming or anything else. In gaming you probably never break 65c. Also you GFlops are spot on meaning you are very stable. I'd run 5-10 loops just in case. I've gone much hotter than that with my 4960X with no ill effects.
> 
> I was going to say are more likely to get temp problems with your GPUs as they are not blower style but you already said it. You'll need to water cool them or remove the middle card.


I think I will sell one of the three video cards. Unfortunately its waterblock is "out of stock" or "end of life"... I'd have had thinking about it before!


----------



## xarot

What you could try is to add a high CFM fan in the back of the GPUs so that it's blowing air directly in the thin spaces of the cards and see if you can get the temps closer to acceptable levels. Also ramp up the fan speed if possible.

I had blower style 3-way SLI of 780s the hottest card without custom fan profile went up to 89c anyway which was still "acceptable" for me. The normal temp target was 82c anyway so it was only 7c higher.


----------



## thespoon

Does "without custom fan profile" mean 40% fan speed?
Yesterday I tried to game at 100% fun speed, but pc reeboted after 5 minutes and temperatures were 80° for card1; 60° for card2 and 100° for card 3.
Do you have any fun model to suggest me?
I have a couple of CORSAIR Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition that I don't use, but are 1150 RPM enough or I need something of more performant (maybe the Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC - 3000RPM) ?

I will try to remove the VGA grid too before to install the fun.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thespoon*
> 
> Yes, those are under stress test.
> But I have now a problem with the 3SLI, in 3D, temperatures are 90-100° and my pc reboots.
> Watercooling system is required!!
> I'm looking at it!


It looks like your already water cooling the CPU, but I'd definitely think about water cooling the MB and possibly the graphics cards.
I have also recently discovered that increasing air flow over the board helps with overall cooling whereas there is more air being forced in that what is being sucked out of a case.
In your case this means to put the build in a case and have more intake fans than outtake fans and seal off any open areas so that the case isn't pulling air in through those open areas....

Not sure why this works so well but when someone on these boards told me to try it I did. After sealing off the large areas like the unused 5.25 bays, the unused rear PCIe ports, and some other areas I noticed a 3 - 5 degree drop in overall temps. I still have to block off (or add another small intake fan) at the bottom in front of the PSU. Though that may be where I put my GPU watercooler when and if I get to that point.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thespoon*
> 
> Does "without custom fan profile" mean 40% fan speed?
> Yesterday I tried to game at 100% fun speed, but pc reeboted after 5 minutes and temperatures were 80° for card1; 60° for card2 and 100° for card 3.
> Do you have any fun model to suggest me?
> I have a couple of CORSAIR Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition that I don't use, but are 1150 RPM enough or I need something of more performant (maybe the Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC - 3000RPM) ?
> 
> I will try to remove the VGA grid too before to install the fun.


Without custom fan profile I meant I let the default BIOS control the fan speed but it didn't seem to work too well.

1150 RPM doesn't sound much but if you already have it why not to try it and see if it it makes any difference. If yes then maybe get higher rpm fan.


----------



## thespoon

Incredible... It's a problem of space!
Due to the hard 3Way-SLI bridge, cards are too closed to each other and fans getting stuck.

I used a sli 3-way flex and Max temperature was 83 under GPU stress test.


----------



## airisom2

Hey guys, I'm having a weird problem with this board. Whenever I change the AI Overclock Tuner to XMP or Manual, my USB devices have a delay in loading when getting to windows. It's as if Windows is reinitializing all of the USB controllers or something. If I leave AI Overclock Tuner on auto, everything is fine, and I can use all of the devices plugged in right when I get to the desktop as it should be. If I put it on Manual or XMP, I can't use my keyboard, external enclosure, mouse, etc. until they have been loaded, which usually takes about a minute total. The only thing that "fixes" it is to remove basically all USB devices except for my mouse and keyboard so that Windows takes less time reading the devices plugged in.

Also, if I put AIOT on manual, shut down the system, switch off the psu, discharge it by pressing the power switch on the case, and boot, my usb devices load as they should. When I restart afterwards, it reverts.

Does anyone know what's going on here?

Update: Tried using a different power supply: didn't fix the problem.


----------



## Raghar

I have it on manual, and it normally boots. Then again I had some weird issue I was forced to use dual channel. I actually wonder if going to dual channel will not fix LunaP issue. Did he found what was the problem?


----------



## thespoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airisom2*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm having a weird problem with this board. Whenever I change the AI Overclock Tuner to XMP or Manual, my USB devices have a delay in loading when getting to windows. It's as if Windows is reinitializing all of the USB controllers or something. If I leave AI Overclock Tuner on auto, everything is fine, and I can use all of the devices plugged in right when I get to the desktop as it should be. If I put it on Manual or XMP, I can't use my keyboard, external enclosure, mouse, etc. until they have been loaded, which usually takes about a minute total. The only thing that "fixes" it is to remove basically all USB devices except for my mouse and keyboard so that Windows takes less time reading the devices plugged in.
> 
> Also, if I put AIOT on manual, shut down the system, switch off the psu, discharge it by pressing the power switch on the case, and boot, my usb devices load as they should. When I restart afterwards, it reverts.
> 
> Does anyone know what's going on here?
> 
> Update: Tried using a different power supply: didn't fix the problem.


I had this problem, I don't know why, but it was the Corsair Link Dashboard, the software of Real-time monitoring and control of my power supply.
Do you have a software with your power? if yes, try to unistall it.


----------



## airisom2

I fixed it!









I had to put my Mediasonic external enclosure on the USB 3.0 ports that are shared with the NIC (initialization delay on all other 3.0 ports), put the internal usb header that my NZXT Aperture M uses on the ROG_EXT USB 2.0 header (initialization delay on all other internal headers), put all USB 2.0 devices on 2.0 ports and the same for the 3.0 devices.

WTH Asus...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thespoon*
> 
> Incredible... It's a problem of space!
> Due to the hard 3Way-SLI bridge, cards are too closed to each other and fans getting stuck.
> 
> I used a sli 3-way flex and Max temperature was 83 under GPU stress test.


That is what you water cool stressing my CPU and GPU and hiest temps on the CPU is 50C and on the 2 Titan X is 37C.. Stop playing with air and cool your parts the way god intended. with a custom loop!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Without custom fan profile I meant I let the default BIOS control the fan speed but it didn't seem to work too well.
> 
> 1150 RPM doesn't sound much but if you already have it why not to try it and see if it it makes any difference. If yes then maybe get higher rpm fan.


Do people really use the Bios and included software to control fans?? I hope not!!!!


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Do people really use the Bios and included software to control fans?? I hope not!!!!


The default GPU BIOS controls the fan speed range in relation to respective temperature automatically, that's what I meant.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It looks like your already water cooling the CPU, but I'd definitely think about water cooling the MB and possibly the graphics cards.
> I have also recently discovered that increasing air flow over the board helps with overall cooling whereas there is more air being forced in that what is being sucked out of a case.
> In your case this means to put the build in a case and have more intake fans than outtake fans and seal off any open areas so that the case isn't pulling air in through those open areas....
> 
> Not sure why this works so well but when someone on these boards told me to try it I did. After sealing off the large areas like the unused 5.25 bays, the unused rear PCIe ports, and some other areas I noticed a 3 - 5 degree drop in overall temps. I still have to block off (or add another small intake fan) at the bottom in front of the PSU. Though that may be where I put my GPU watercooler when and if I get to that point.


Absolutely right, it's called positive pressure. Basically, you want every fan on the top, bottom, front, & sides blowing IN to the case so that the air pressure INSIDE the case is slightly higher than outside the case. Then, the air inside the case will naturally seek to equalize with the lower pressure outside by escaping through every nook & cranny it can find, leaving no nooks or crannies for dusty unfiltered air to get in to your case through. It totally works. I have 16 fans in my build, all of them intake except for 1 (rear), and there's barely enough dust buildup to bother cleaning it out maybe once a year or so (and the air quality in my neighborhood is very bad). Whether you should have ANY exhaust fans is basically trial & error, sometimes one exhaust works better than no exhaust, sometimes not.

Good move sealing off the exposed bay areas, I found that beneficial too -- just be careful that you're not leaving any "dead zones" where air isn't moving or you could end up with an overheating chipset, vrm, or hdd. If you're really pressed for space, I like the Evercool ARMOR drive bay mount. It doesn't move a LOT of air, but it's a nifty way to enhance your front-to-back airflow withough giving up mounting space or using unsightly mods on the front of your pc.

Also, it's a common misperception in cooling design that the top fans should be exhaust because "heat rises". Heat only rises when there is little or no directed air moving it otherwise. With even the slightest active air movement the heat will follow wherever you tell the air to go.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Do people really use the Bios and included software to control fans?? I hope not!!!!


Not all of us can have a dedicated fan control center room wired in to the environmental control for your house like I'm sure you do, seross







lol


----------



## Mega Man

Sure you can. Google aquaero


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Absolutely right, it's called positive pressure. Basically, you want every fan on the top, bottom, front, & sides blowing IN to the case so that the air pressure INSIDE the case is slightly higher than outside the case. Then, the air inside the case will naturally seek to equalize with the lower pressure outside by escaping through every nook & cranny it can find, leaving no nooks or crannies for dusty unfiltered air to get in to your case through. It totally works. I have 16 fans in my build, all of them intake except for 1 (rear), and there's barely enough dust buildup to bother cleaning it out maybe once a year or so (and the air quality in my neighborhood is very bad). Whether you should have ANY exhaust fans is basically trial & error, sometimes one exhaust works better than no exhaust, sometimes not.
> 
> Good move sealing off the exposed bay areas, I found that beneficial too -- just be careful that you're not leaving any "dead zones" where air isn't moving or you could end up with an overheating chipset, vrm, or hdd. If you're really pressed for space, I like the Evercool ARMOR drive bay mount. It doesn't move a LOT of air, but it's a nifty way to enhance your front-to-back airflow withough giving up mounting space or using unsightly mods on the front of your pc.
> 
> Also, it's a common misperception in cooling design that the top fans should be exhaust because "heat rises". Heat only rises when there is little or no directed air moving it otherwise. With even the slightest active air movement the heat will follow wherever you tell the air to go.


Unfortunately in my set up my top fans have to be exhaust fans because that's the best way to keep the radiator cool. Though I wonder how it would affect temps if I reversed the fans....

That drive bay mount is pretty nifty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sure you can. Google aquaero


The Aquareo isn't an option for people like me on a tight budget. I use the AI suite which has so far out performed any other fan controlling software I have tried.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Unfortunately in my set up my top fans have to be exhaust fans because that's the best way to keep the radiator cool. Though I wonder how it would affect temps if I reversed the fans....
> 
> That drive bay mount is pretty nifty.
> The Aquareo isn't an option for people like me on a tight budget. I use the AI suite which has so far out performed any other fan controlling software I have tried.


Asus FanXpert has worked great for me in the past, but now I am done with software and using 8x 3-pin "controller" powered by one Molex, have hooked up 16 fans to that one controller alone. No risk of burning any contacts on crucial parts (like the motherboard).







Fancy fan-controllers does seem like waste of money in my mind (never had one either), 7v adapters and molex/sata-powered controllers all day long.







This coming from the guy that like bay-reservoirs over tube reservoirs.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Unfortunately in my set up my top fans have to be exhaust fans because that's the best way to keep the radiator cool. Though I wonder how it would affect temps if I reversed the fans....
> 
> That drive bay mount is pretty nifty.
> The Aquareo isn't an option for people like me on a tight budget. I use the AI suite which has so far out performed any other fan controlling software I have tried.


Why do they "have to be exhaust"? Generally, you always want your radiator fans to be INTAKE so they're pulling cool air from outside the case through the radiator to cool your water. As long as your cpu AND gpu are watercooled, and there's decent airflow over the vrm & HDDs, just keep pulling cool air INTO the case and let the warmer air inside take care of itself.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Why do they "have to be exhaust"? Generally, you always want your radiator fans to be INTAKE so they're pulling cool air from outside the case through the radiator to cool your water. As long as your cpu AND gpu are watercooled, and there's decent airflow over the vrm & HDDs, just keep pulling cool air INTO the case and let the warmer air inside take care of itself.


Other than the manufacturer recommends them being in a pull configuration and the typical idea that if it's on the top of the case it should pull out, there are no other reasons not to put them in a push configuration. It would definitely improve my in case air pressure. If I do this I will most definitely keep an eye on the temps just in case it has the opposite effect and I get bad air movement because of it.


----------



## vulcan78

Hi everyone, I'm actually having an issue now that I didn't even know I had until reading about PCIE 2.0 vs. 3.0, in doing some research I discovered that according to GPU-Z my secondary GPU is only running at PCIE 3.0 x8 in a x16 slot. I've already attempted to reseat the card to no avail. Anything else I can try? Secondary is in slot 4, which we all know is x16.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Hi everyone, I'm actually having an issue now that I didn't even know I had until reading about PCIE 2.0 vs. 3.0, in doing some research I discovered that according to GPU-Z my secondary GPU is only running at PCIE 3.0 x8 in a x16 slot. I've already attempted to reseat the card to no avail. Anything else I can try? Secondary is in slot 4, which we all know is x16.


Do you have any other PCIE slots populated besides those 2?


----------



## broken pixel

Look in the manual or go into the BIOS and use the tool that lets you simulate devices that utilize the ports by bandwidth. You must have to many devices to run 16x 16x on pcie 3.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Do you have any other PCIE slots populated besides those 2?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Look in the manual or go into the BIOS and use the tool that lets you simulate devices that utilize the ports by bandwidth. You must have to many devices to run 16x 16x on pcie 3.


Nothing else populated but the two cards. GPU-Z is also reflecting that the card is in a x16 slot but is running at x8 (Bus Interface):



I've looked into the manual but the only setting I could find in BIOS, under Advanced, simply lets me ensure that PCIe devices are on "Gen3".

Am I missing something?

How do I access the GPU POST settings, and is this the issue?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Nothing else populated but the two cards. GPU-Z is also reflecting that the card is in a x16 slot but is running at x8 (Bus Interface):


fyi, if you have ANYTHING in any of the other x8 or x16 slots, including a PCIE x1 soundcard etc, the card in slot 3 will run at x8. If you have a soundcard or whatever, you have to put it in the pci-e x1 slot even if it means sandwiching it between the gpu's, or the secondary gpu slot will default to x8.

Also, be aware of the configurations detailed in the user manual, they mean them quite literally - you have to populate the slots in certain order or they won't function correctly (not saying you aren't doing it correctly, just pointing out that the illustrated configurations are required for the board to sense the proper functionality).

Go to "GPU/DIMM Post" in the bios, there's a tool that lets you simulate a proposed setup and then shows you what the result will be.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> fyi, if you have ANYTHING in any of the other x8 or x16 slots, including a PCIE x1 soundcard etc, the card in slot 3 will run at x8. If you have a soundcard or whatever, you have to put it in the pci-e x1 slot even if it means sandwiching it between the gpu's, or the secondary gpu slot will default to x8.
> 
> Also, be aware of the configurations detailed in the user manual, they mean them quite literally - you have to populate the slots in certain order or they won't function correctly (not saying you aren't doing it correctly, just pointing out that the illustrated configurations are required for the board to sense the proper functionality).
> 
> Go to "GPU/DIMM Post" in the bios, there's a tool that lets you simulate a proposed setup and then shows you what the result will be.


There is nothing else in any of the PCIe slots at all, and I have the cards in "Slot 1" and "Slot 4" (as numbered in the manual, in actuality it is first slot and then 3rd slot down as can be seen in the following video).

How does accessing the GPU/DIMM Post simulation in BIOS differ from the simulation in GPU-Z? (clicking on the question mark in GPU-Z starts the simulation).


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> fyi, if you have ANYTHING in any of the other x8 or x16 slots, including a PCIE x1 soundcard etc, the card in slot 3 will run at x8. If you have a soundcard or whatever, you have to put it in the pci-e x1 slot even if it means sandwiching it between the gpu's, or the secondary gpu slot will default to x8.
> 
> Also, be aware of the configurations detailed in the user manual, they mean them quite literally - you have to populate the slots in certain order or they won't function correctly (not saying you aren't doing it correctly, just pointing out that the illustrated configurations are required for the board to sense the proper functionality).
> 
> Go to "GPU/DIMM Post" in the bios, there's a tool that lets you simulate a proposed setup and then shows you what the result will be.


Is this correct? I have been made to understand that as long as all the other devices are not taking up more than 8 PCIe lanes then the cards should both run at x16. One other thing to note is that I also believe having a lot of SATA drives can affect the number of PCIe lanes available, please correct me if I am wrong as I am not sure.

@Vulcan78 What CPU do you have in this build?

Apologies if you have already mentioned this.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Is this correct? I have been made to understand that as long as all the other devices are not taking up more than 8 PCIe lanes then the cards should both run at x16. One other thing to note is that I also believe having a lot of SATA drives can affect the number of PCIe lanes available, please correct me if I am wrong as I am not sure.
> 
> @Vulcan78 What CPU do you have in this build?
> 
> Apologies if you have already mentioned this.


i7 4930k. And I have two drives in SATA2 and one drive (boot drive) in SATA3.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Nothing else populated but the two cards. GPU-Z is also reflecting that the card is in a x16 slot but is running at x8 (Bus Interface):
> 
> 
> 
> I've looked into the manual but the only setting I could find in BIOS, under Advanced, simply lets me ensure that PCIe devices are on "Gen3".
> 
> Am I missing something?
> 
> How do I access the GPU POST settings, and is this the issue?


Have you checked the PCIe dip switches to ensure they are all enabled for x16 operation?


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Have you checked the PCIe dip switches to ensure they are all enabled for x16 operation?


No, thank you for this suggestion Reever, how do I do this?

Edit:

I just consulted the manual, specifically page 1-27 and all of the dip switches are set to "on".


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> No, thank you for this suggestion Reever, how do I do this?


Near the top right of the board, below the power button, you will see a block with four toggle switches. Each one correspponds to a x16 slot. Left is x16 mode, right is x8 mode. They follow the slots, respectively, top to bottom.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Near the top right of the board, below the power button, you will see a block with four toggle switches. Each one correspponds to a x16 slot. Left is x16 mode, right is x8 mode. They follow the slots, respectively, top to bottom.


Things I just tried:

Checked GPU POST and am seeing secondary is in the 3rd slot down (x16) but is running at "x8 native".

Removed secondary, checked slot for bent, missing or damaged pins, cleaned GPU side contacts with rubbing alcohol, blew out slot with compressed air, reseated.

Turned slots 2 and 4 off in the x16 dip switch.

Secondary still showing as running at "x8 natively" in GPU Post.

Could it be the GPU? Hopefully that's all it is as I intend to replace them with a pair of 980 Ti when I can afford to do so.

In the grand scheme of things it isn't a big deal since it has been fairly firmly established that the difference between 3.0 x8 and 3.0 x16 is only 1% or so.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Near the top right of the board, below the power button, you will see a block with four toggle switches. Each one correspponds to a x16 slot. Left is x16 mode, right is x8 mode. They follow the slots, respectively, top to bottom.


Those switches are there to turn *on or off* the corresponding pci-e lanes.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Those switches are there to turn *on or off* the corresponding pci-e lanes.


Interestying, when I was struggling with my 670's, enabling the corresponding dip switch brought it up from x8 to x16. Even subsequent testing verified that. Could be an anomaly, I suppose.


----------



## Goggle Eye

If you add a PCIe 3.0 SSD to Lane 3 will GPU on 4 run at 8x?

Just curious and trying to learn, the difference between 8x and 16x is 1 percent?

Been trying to figure out the best SSD configuration for the R4BE and storage requirments for several months while saving money for the budget. Need some help please. A bit off topic apologize. Need another 800 Gb of storage to replace 4 x W/Digital Velocity Raptors 300 Gb each 6 + years old no issues yet. Trying to get this system down to 2 or three SSD and 1 x 7500 RPM platter drive W/D Black Caviar 1TB for media and back up. Have one Intel 730 SSD (240GB) C drive connected to Serial SATA 6.0GB connectors (Gray) page number 1-38. "Asmedia Serial Ports on page 1.40 will the Ports create a conflict with Intel Drivers IRST & Intel Tool Box?"
Have Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver Installed and Intel Tool Box.

Amazon International

SamSung 850 Pro 1TB 539.00 U.S. Will this SSD create a conflict with Intel Rapid Storage Technology & Intel Tool Box?
SanDisk Extreme Pro 960GB $723.58 To much for this SSD.
Intel 730 Series 480 GB x 2 $292.76 Each = $585.52 "Raid 0_No".
Intel DC S3500S 800GB 612.95 Like this drive reads a bit slow compared to the 730 Series S3710. "Maybe not notice the difference in speed?
Intel DC S3710 800 GB $1,367.00 is crazy and over budget.

Concern with the SamSung is conflicts with Intel Rapid Storage technology, Intel Tool Box, and reliability. Or run the 4 x W/Digital Velocity Raptors until they break?

Thank You

Larry


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Those switches are there to turn *on or off* the corresponding pci-e lanes.


Hello U









Those switches come in very handy if you bench and like to do 1 - 4 card 3D Mark passes


----------



## PachAz

Those switches are good if you want to test other gpus independantly without having to disable them in the bios or pull the power wires. Little things like this is what makes the ROG boards from Asus special and worth the premium.


----------



## reev3r

Interesting, on my board I was having issues with x16 on the third slot (as you can see here from a year ago or more), and flipping that switch solved it and enabled x16 on the slot...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Interesting, on my board I was having issues with x16 on the third slot (as you can see here from a year ago or more), and flipping that switch solved it and enabled x16 on the slot...


I turn of lanes I don't use


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I turn of lanes I don't use


When I first got the board I didn't really pay attention to it, I figured it was for something more advanced than my needs, however after seeing that my 2nd card was only in x8 mode (not that it mattered with a 670, it was the principle) I spent weeks getting guidance from users on here, and no solution solved the issue. Then one day I noticed that the top one was on and the rest were off, so I switched the corresponding one to on, and that solved the problem of the 2nd card (3rd x16 slot) being stuck in x8 mode, when I booted up it reported as x16 from then on.


----------



## zealord

Quick question. First and third slot PCIE for SLI would work at PCIE 3.0 X16 for both cards with an 4930K correct?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> If you add a PCIe 3.0 SSD to Lane 3 will GPU on 4 run at 8x?
> 
> Just curious and trying to learn, the difference between 8x and 16x is 1 percent?
> 
> Been trying to figure out the best SSD configuration for the R4BE and storage requirments for several months while saving money for the budget. Need some help please. A bit off topic apologize. Need another 800 Gb of storage to replace 4 x W/Digital Velocity Raptors 300 Gb each 6 + years old no issues yet. Trying to get this system down to 2 or three SSD and 1 x 7500 RPM platter drive W/D Black Caviar 1TB for media and back up. Have one Intel 730 SSD (240GB) C drive connected to Serial SATA 6.0GB connectors (Gray) page number 1-38. "Asmedia Serial Ports on page 1.40 will the Ports create a conflict with Intel Drivers IRST & Intel Tool Box?"
> Have Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver Installed and Intel Tool Box.
> 
> Amazon International
> 
> SamSung 850 Pro 1TB 539.00 U.S. Will this SSD create a conflict with Intel Rapid Storage Technology & Intel Tool Box?
> SanDisk Extreme Pro 960GB $723.58 To much for this SSD.
> Intel 730 Series 480 GB x 2 $292.76 Each = $585.52 "Raid 0_No".
> Intel DC S3500S 800GB 612.95 Like this drive reads a bit slow compared to the 730 Series S3710. "Maybe not notice the difference in speed?
> Intel DC S3710 800 GB $1,367.00 is crazy and over budget.
> 
> Concern with the SamSung is conflicts with Intel Rapid Storage technology, Intel Tool Box, and reliability. Or run the 4 x W/Digital Velocity Raptors until they break?
> 
> Thank You
> 
> Larry


None of the SSD's should have a conflict with RST... Not sure why you might 've concerned about that... I have had everything from a 40GB Intel X25, a Kingston HyperX, a couple of SanDisk SSD's in a R.A.I.D. 0, and now two 840 evo's in a R.A.I.D. 0 array, and all of them performed perfectly without any issues.

If you plan to use SATA, save your money and get a less expensive drive that can max out the bus, don't get any NVME Intel SSD, as you are paying for performance that you can't use over SATA, but if you can afford it, a PCIe NVME Intel SSD is about the fastest SINGLE unit you can get, but I feel that is also a waste (personally), as I can R.A.I.D. two SATA SSD's and get just as fast speeds, my 2x840 evo's get me about 1,200MB/s read speeds, which is on par with the much more expensive PCIe units, but for half the price... Just my thoughts...

As for the people that will undoubtedly bash R.A.I.D. 0 for supposed instability or failure rates, I have been running the same stripe for nearly two years now without a hiccup, the Intel controllers are rock solid, and I'd you get a decent SSD, expect reliability.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> None of the SSD's should have a conflict with RST... Not sure why you might 've concerned about that... I have had everything from a 40GB Intel X25, a Kingston HyperX, a couple of SanDisk SSD's in a R.A.I.D. 0, and now two 840 evo's in a R.A.I.D. 0 array, and all of them performed perfectly without any issues.
> 
> If you plan to use SATA, save your money and get a less expensive drive that can max out the bus, don't get any NVME Intel SSD, as you are paying for performance that you can't use over SATA, but if you can afford it, a PCIe NVME Intel SSD is about the fastest SINGLE unit you can get, but I feel that is also a waste (personally), as I can R.A.I.D. two SATA SSD's and get just as fast speeds, my 2x840 evo's get me about 1,200MB/s read speeds, which is on par with the much more expensive PCIe units, but for half the price... Just my thoughts...
> 
> "Thank you for taking the time for the reply" .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your reply is very helpful so I can make a informed decision.
> 
> Boils down to 1 Samsung Pro 1 T.B or 2 x Intel 730 Series 480GBs each Raid 0. Cost Difrence is $50.00
> Any idea how many GB SSD I need for back up about 900 Gbs + using Acronis? SamSung Pro 1 TB SSD is that "Silly".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to improve the performance and eliminate the 4 x raptors and make the computer management less complicated. My Computer: SSD C: O.S. & A.V., D: Programs, E: FSX, F: Media, G: (5 GB Partition on H: Drive Windows Page Files), H: USERTEMP, WINTEMP & manual back up. Set up to eliminate writes to the C: Drive SSD.
> 
> How can I tell if the Bus Speed is being maxed out? The NVME Intel SSD is out of the budget.
> 
> As for the people that will undoubtedly bash R.A.I.D. 0 for supposed instability or failure rates, I have been running the same stripe for nearly two years now without a hiccup, the Intel controllers are rock solid, and I'd you get a decent SSD, expect reliability.


Considered Raid O use to run Raid 10 on 4 x Velocity Raptors never had a issue. Considered Raid 0 with SSD could use 2 x Intel 730 Series 480 GB Raid 0. It is my understanding with programs on 2 x SSD the read and write times are faster than Raid 0 my knowledge is very limited? Microsoft Flight Simulator X (Task Manger FSX is CPU Bound I7 4930K at 4.5 Ghz V-Core 1.355v H.T. disabled. FSX does not recognize H.T.. Core 0 is the O.S. 8% to 12%, FSX is running on Cores 1 98% up to 100%, cores 2, 3, 4, 5 FSX running 38 to 68% with 98% spikes. With H.T. enabled V-Core 1.395v little miss piggy. FSX cannot be installed to the C: Drive (SSD) inside of Windows 7 64 Bit. FSX on E: Drive (Raptor) at times is maxing out the Velocity Raptor (Task Manager Disk). Not currently running any other games or software may in the future other than media files and pics.

What is average for a I7 4960X where can I find the information? Get a used I7 4960X for 600.00 suppose to be better than average per seller no O.C. specs. Just run the I 7 4930K at 4.5 Ghz is max for the NH-D14 Heat Sink at 1.395v V-Core. 4.6 Ghz + 1.45v way to hot and over Intel Specs? Is it possible with a I7 4960X at 4.6Ghz on air NH-D14 with H.T. disabled with a better than average chip? "Is that a pipe dream?" What would the performance gain be three percent?

Sorry for the long reply & Off Topic, trying to figure out how to improve the performance on this system R4BE M/Board.

Thanks
Larry


----------



## yttocstfarc

Things are about to get real Interesting!!!!!


----------



## CYBER-SNIPA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Things are about to get real Interesting!!!!!


WOW! That's a lot of cereal!!! LOL


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CYBER-SNIPA*
> 
> WOW! That's a lot of cereal!!! LOL


Haha! Yeah I love it. Gotta feed the kids.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> When I first got the board I didn't really pay attention to it, I figured it was for something more advanced than my needs, however after seeing that my 2nd card was only in x8 mode (not that it mattered with a 670, it was the principle) I spent weeks getting guidance from users on here, and no solution solved the issue. Then one day I noticed that the top one was on and the rest were off, so I switched the corresponding one to on, and that solved the problem of the 2nd card (3rd x16 slot) being stuck in x8 mode, when I booted up it reported as x16 from then on.


That would of done my head in big time 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zealord*
> 
> Quick question. First and third slot PCIE for SLI would work at PCIE 3.0 X16 for both cards with an 4930K correct?


Yes it does


----------



## zealord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Yes it does


Thanks +1


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Cheers mate , I'm certain it has 40 pci lanes and its the 5820/haswell that had 28 pci lane , off the top of my head ;^\


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Cheers mate , I'm certain it has 40 pci lanes and its the 5820/haswell that had 28 pci lane , off the top of my head ;^\


I believe that is correct sir.


----------



## Madmaxneo

anyone have a link that shows what bios options to change to speed up boot times?


----------



## Myloween

Hi,
Anyone know if the ROG Oc panel allows to switch between 2 custom profiles (set by myself) outside of the bios ? I can't try this currently because my motherboard is unplugged on my mod and I didn't find this information and if I understood correctly, the "CPU Level UP" does not correspond to this.
Thank you.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Interesting, on my board I was having issues with x16 on the third slot (as you can see here from a year ago or more), and flipping that switch solved it and enabled x16 on the slot...


Wait, so youre saying you turned this switch off and that enabled x16 on your 3rd slot? Well I suppose I will have to give this a try I suppose, I've got nothing to lose.


----------



## vulcan78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zealord*
> 
> Quick question. First and third slot PCIE for SLI would work at PCIE 3.0 X16 for both cards with an 4930K correct?


Yes, supposed to as referred to in the manual, unless youre special like me.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulcan78*
> 
> Wait, so youre saying you turned this switch off and that enabled x16 on your 3rd slot? Well I suppose I will have to give this a try I suppose, I've got nothing to lose.


Switching it on enabled x16 on the 3rd slot. If I remember correctly I switched it to the left, but whichever way is the on position.


----------



## broken pixel

I guess he is talking about the pci- lane switches. All that does is turn the slots on or off correct?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Is this correct? I have been made to understand that as long as all the other devices are not taking up more than 8 PCIe lanes then the cards should both run at x16. One other thing to note is that I also believe having a lot of SATA drives can affect the number of PCIe lanes available, please correct me if I am wrong as I am not sure.


I'm reasonably certain it's correct, I went through this for the longest time with my PCIe soundcard, which I had in slot 4, which resulted in my secondary gpu defaulting to x8 because the board thought I was running x16/x8/x8/x8. Basically, the board is "programmed" to allocate PCIe lanes only in certain configurations, in batch multiples of 8, not one lane at a time:

x16 / x0 / x16 / x0 is defined (dual SLI)
x16 / x8 / x16 / x0 is defined (tri-SLI)
x16 / x8 / x8 / x8 is defined (quad-SLI)
x16 / x0 / x16 / x1 is *undefined*
x16 / x1 / x16 / x0 is *undefined*

Undefined configs default to the quad profile (x16 / x8 / x8 / x8) so all slots have lanes assigned

If you populate any of the RED slots with a x1 / x2 PCIe card, it's going to assign 8 lanes to that slot, and then the corresponding programmed configuration to the others, EVEN IF the card in the slot only requires 1 or 2 lanes. The board architecture isn't smart enough to sense the requirements and then do the math to figure out the most efficient setup, it can only parrot back a few pre-programmed configurations that most closely resemble what it senses. To force the board to assign only the required lanes to a x1/x2 card, you have to put it in the black slots so it doesn't throw off the red slot lane configuration.


----------



## hooi1989

May i know what is the best setting for dual R9 295x2? Do i need to turn off lane 2 and lane 4 switch in board?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hooi1989*
> 
> May i know what is the best setting for dual R9 295x2? Do i need to turn off lane 2 and lane 4 switch in board?


You can if you want to just as long as its 2 cards , slot 1 and slot 3


----------



## hooi1989

Is that necessary to turn it off?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hooi1989*
> 
> Is that necessary to turn it off?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> *You can if you want to* just as long as its 2 cards , slot 1 and slot 3
Click to expand...











and welcome to the BE owners club and OCN


----------



## wjturner78

Hey guys sorry I haven't been on in awhile. I've been scrambling to finish my build for the quakecon mod contest. It's good to see almost everyone is back in here.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hooi1989*
> 
> Is that necessary to turn it off?


It all depends on if you have something in those slots. If there is nothing in those slots then there is no need to turn them off.

Welcome to the forums and congrats on owning the RIVBE!


----------



## reev3r

Hey all, sorry for the disappearance. Haven't really seen anybody needing much help, which is always a good thing! I am curious, does anybody have a nodded or unmodded I/O cover that they are willing to part with, for cash of course. My board looks so sad and pathetic without that sexy aluminum cover/heatsink... I have considered dumping some plasti-dip on it, but would prefer the cover of anybody has a spare or doesn't care about it...


----------



## Lord Baron

Hey guys has anyone had any luck with a AMD fury X with this board the one i get keeps getting stuck at error level 62 during boot, so i'm wondering if its a defective card or what not.
Thanks


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Baron*
> 
> Hey guys has anyone had any luck with a AMD fury X with this board the one i get keeps getting stuck at error level 62 during boot, so i'm wondering if its a defective card or what not.
> Thanks


According to the book that error indicates "Installation of the PCH Runtime Services".
After doing a google search for that I found it could be a few things from a bad graphics card to a bad PCIe slot, most other explanations of this error point to a bad PCIe slot.
First thing is to make sure your BIOS is up to date.
I noticed an interesting fix for this. If you are running SLI try switching the cards around. That worked for one guy and he was using the RIV extreme MB. If not try putting the card in a different slot and see if that works. Also on that particular thread everyone seemed to believe that a BIOS update was needed for the newer video cards.That person also had an AMD video card though there are plenty of reports of that error with nVidia cards also.


----------



## Lord Baron

i know the pcie slot is ok because i can run my old 7970 without any issues, i also tried in the 4 other slots and i get the same issue, i've updated the mobo bios to 0802 (latest AFAIK), gonna try the card in a friends pc to pinpoint the culprit


----------



## Dwofzz

I'm just going to leave this here ( btw the RIVBE is a sick overclocking board! )


----------



## Gabem

Hello
Unfortunately, I too fell into the trap I fell like others here before, but I could not do oprvosolnom problem








Rambold was unfortunately only 12GB see bios below 8.1 and WIN too.
I removed a processor has, you can manually set it in the BIOS value for the CL festival also focussed on Clear CMOS swirled also made (after the Procion put it back) but nothing changes.
Perhaps it would be even sg Alternatively it?

Machine data: CPU Type Intel Core i7-4820K Quad Core, 3900 MHz (39 x 100)
Motherboard: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition (2 PCI-E x1, 4 PCI-E x16, 8 DDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, WiFi)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 Video Card (4GB)
Power: 1250 W OCZ
RAM: G.Skill DDR3 2400 CL9-11-11-31 1.65V
Cooling: H110 GTX edition
Thank you. G.

Sorry for my bad english writing.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabem*
> 
> Hello
> Unfortunately, I too fell into the trap I fell like others here before, but I could not do oprvosolnom problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rambold was unfortunately only 12GB see bios below 8.1 and WIN too.
> I removed a processor has, you can manually set it in the BIOS value for the CL festival also focussed on Clear CMOS swirled also made (after the Procion put it back) but nothing changes.
> Perhaps it would be even sg Alternatively it?
> 
> Machine data: CPU Type Intel Core i7-4820K Quad Core, 3900 MHz (39 x 100)
> Motherboard: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition (2 PCI-E x1, 4 PCI-E x16, 8 DDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, WiFi)
> NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 Video Card (4GB)
> Power: 1250 W OCZ
> RAM: G.Skill DDR3 2400 CL9-11-11-31 1.65V
> Cooling: H110 GTX edition
> Thank you. G.
> 
> Sorry for my bad english writing.


Gabem, I am having trouble understanding what you wrote above because some of the words did not translate well. I understand you have a problem of some sort with your PC. What I could gather from your post is you may be having a problem with your system only reading 12 gb of RAM? But how much RAM do you have in your system (number or strips and how much gb per strip? Please correct me if I am wrong and I (or someone else) may be able to help. An alternative would be for you to type your message in your native tongue into google translate and convert it to english. I am not sure how well that will work but it is worth a try.


----------



## layne81

Guys,

I am still having issues.... SUCHHHHH A NOOB!!!!!!

So this is where I am at right now...

I have 4.4ghz at 1.35v and that is the best i can do.

My goal was 4.5ghz.

I cleaned my CPU and H100i and applied some IC Diamond... now instead of PC sitting idle at 45-47c .... i am idling 32-35c.

This i7 4930k.... it appears I have hit the doo doo lottery compared to what I have read on this board.

Anyone have a similiar setup that they can recommend the best settings in the bios to achieve the highest overclock with lowest vcore??!?! I know its a long shot for my case to be the same....

And last but not least... WHAT is the highest vcore I can use? What about LLC? and do temps matter more than vcore? higher vcore ...low temps? does it matter?

Does the temps degrade the CPU or does the vcore?

Thanks,
Layne


----------



## layne81

I am also having a little issues with SLI.... I am not sure if I have my lanes setup correctly...probably because I am have no idea how hahaha!

Basically if I apply sli....things get weird... sometimes my pc freezes... it takes a few times of applying and restarting for things to take effect.

Here are some pics..... first 2 are actual and last one is a marked up jpeg of where my 780 ti classifieds sit.....


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I am still having issues.... SUCHHHHH A NOOB!!!!!!
> 
> So this is where I am at right now...
> 
> I have 4.4ghz at 1.35v and that is the best i can do.
> 
> My goal was 4.5ghz.
> 
> I cleaned my CPU and H100i and applied some IC Diamond... now instead of PC sitting idle at 45-47c .... i am idling 32-35c.
> 
> This i7 4930k.... it appears I have hit the doo doo lottery compared to what I have read on this board.
> 
> Anyone have a similiar setup that they can recommend the best settings in the bios to achieve the highest overclock with lowest vcore??!?! I know its a long shot for my case to be the same....
> 
> And last but not least... WHAT is the highest vcore I can use? What about LLC? and do temps matter more than vcore? higher vcore ...low temps? does it matter?
> 
> Does the temps degrade the CPU or does the vcore?
> 
> Thanks,
> Layne


You have at least hit the standard 4.4 ghz for the 4930k. But here are a few things you can try.
The max "recommended" vcore is 1.4v, but there have been people that have had stable systems up to and slightly above 1.5v. But the problem with running a vcore higher than 1.4v is the cpu degrades at a much faster rate.
How many sticks of RAM are you using? If your using 4 and bought them in the same package then just ignore this.
After looking at your pics (of which I can't see very well for some reason and when I click on the photo it stays in a loading loop) you seem to have the RAM in the very first two slots and you only have two sticks. I would put the RAM sticks in the recommended slots but also make sure your bios is up to date with the latest update (I think it is the 0801). I would also recommend getting a 4 stick RAM set as it seems (so far) the cpu seems to run better when the RAM is in quad channel. This is only a slight assumption from what I have seen so far. I also only have two sticks of RAM and I am stuck at a max of 4.3 with a vcore of 1.36, which is horrible.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> I am also having a little issues with SLI.... I am not sure if I have my lanes setup correctly...probably because I am have no idea how hahaha!
> 
> Basically if I apply sli....things get weird... sometimes my pc freezes... it takes a few times of applying and restarting for things to take effect.
> 
> Here are some pics..... first 2 are actual and last one is a marked up jpeg of where my 780 ti classifieds sit.....


I would try turning off any unused PCIe slots if you haven't already... Just to see if it helps...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *layne81*
> 
> I am also having a little issues with SLI.... I am not sure if I have my lanes setup correctly...probably because I am have no idea how hahaha!
> 
> Basically if I apply sli....things get weird... sometimes my pc freezes... it takes a few times of applying and restarting for things to take effect.
> 
> Here are some pics..... first 2 are actual and last one is a marked up jpeg of where my 780 ti classifieds sit.....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yep those are the right slots


----------



## Madmaxneo

Despite everyone's recommended caution, I recently ordered 2 more strips of RAM and added it to my current setup giving me 4 strips of ram for a total of 32gb. It did not seem to make any kind of difference. I tried upping the OC to 4.4 and I still get the same results as before where it BSODs within seconds of starting the stress test. I can still run 4.3 under the same stress tests and there seems to be no real difference. Except that my temps are now about 10 deg hotter than they were before. But that also happened the last time I ran some tests when I tried some different settings. It ran hot like this (though it really isn't hot) but it went back down to normal high 20's after a day or so.

Now my next step is to get the chip replaced using the intel replacement plan and hope I get a chip that can at least reach 4/5ghz stable though the standard of reaching a stable 4.4 ghz would be fine.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Greetings all ..









I hope I can get some help.

I just installed my RIVBE and when trying to set my Dominator Plats to 2133mhz, it keeps saying overclock failed. I really want to OC my CPU and get my Memory running at the correct speed.

Is there anyone that could help me get my memory running 2133mhz and my CPU @ 4.4ghz (even 4GHZ should be fine)

Here are the screenies to join the club:




I am really sorry for the bad picture, after driving 160km (+- 100 miles), removing my old Z77 board, having to creatively find ways to mount that H110i GT ... I just was not in the mood to struggle with pictures ... haha

*:::EDIT:::*

Onboard audio seems much softer than my Asus DX SC .. Which would be considered better ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Greetings all ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope I can get some help.
> 
> I just installed my RIVBE and when trying to set my Dominator Plats to 2133mhz, it keeps saying overclock failed. I really want to OC my CPU and get my Memory running at the correct speed.
> 
> Is there anyone that could help me get my memory running 2133mhz and my CPU @ 4.4ghz (even 4GHZ should be fine)
> 
> Here are the screenies to join the club:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am really sorry for the bad picture, after driving 160km (+- 100 miles), removing my old Z77 board, having to creatively find ways to mount that H110i GT ... I just was not in the mood to struggle with pictures ... haha
> 
> *:::EDIT:::*
> 
> Onboard audio seems much softer than my Asus DX SC .. Which would be considered better ?


Hello and welcome to the club.
First things first this guide will help you out a lot (setting XMP):Ivy E IC guide Then go to this one and it will help you understand a little more on the RIVBE board: ASUS Rampage IV Extreme - UEFI Guide for Overclocking

I would also make sure you have the latest BIOS update (0801 I believe) and check to see if your RAM is XMP compatible (the user guide should help).

Let us know if you have any trouble getting XMP set.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hello and welcome to the club.
> First things first this guide will help you out a lot (setting XMP):Ivy E IC guide Then go to this one and it will help you understand a little more on the RIVBE board: ASUS Rampage IV Extreme - UEFI Guide for Overclocking
> 
> I would also make sure you have the latest BIOS update (0801 I believe) and check to see if your RAM is XMP compatible (the user guide should help).
> 
> Let us know if you have any trouble getting XMP set.


Thanks so much, I am just used to going manual and selecting the timings ... selecting XMP is perfect ... Also set my CPU to 4.4ghz with stock voltages and everything seems fine so far ...

I see the highest in the club (on the first page) was a validated 4.6GHZ ... I can't imagine the best OC being so low ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks so much, I am just used to going manual and selecting the timings ... selecting XMP is perfect ... Also set my CPU to 4.4ghz with stock voltages and everything seems fine so far ...
> 
> I see the highest in the club (on the first page) was a validated 4.6GHZ ... I can't imagine the best OC being so low ?


There have been higher. The one who started this club is no longer here. I don't think anyone new has been added in over a year... I know I am not of the list yet as well as quite a few others.

One more thing before you start to OC further, make sure you turn off *CPU spread spectrum* as that can cause instability when OCing.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> There have been higher. The one who started this club is no longer here. I don't think anyone new has been added in over a year... I know I am not of the list yet as well as quite a few others.
> 
> One more thing before you start to OC further, make sure you turn off *CPU spread spectrum* as that can cause instability when OCing.


Thanks so much for the information ... ... What kind of voltages should I be looking at if I want to go higher ? ... also, what would a good 4960x be able to get easily ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

@Emissary of Pain
TBH I am not that familiar with the 4960x. It is a high end chip but according to what I have read the 4930k has a higher OC cap though only by about 600mhz. If your already at 4.4ghz that is a great start but keep an eye on your vcore. I am not sure what is the max safe vcore for the 4960x but for the 4930k it is 1.4. From what I am reading it seems the max safe vcore for the 4960x is also 1.4. It is apparently the same across all Ivy-E chips.
I found this guide on guru3d and he said reaching over 4.2 is great for this chip.
There is also this discussion and Raja seems to be shooting for a max of 1.4 vcore (as shown on page 4 or 5).

I hope this helps!


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> @Emissary of Pain
> TBH I am not that familiar with the 4960x. It is a high end chip but according to what I have read the 4930k has a higher OC cap though only by about 600mhz. If your already at 4.4ghz that is a great start but keep an eye on your vcore. I am not sure what is the max safe vcore for the 4960x but for the 4930k it is 1.4. From what I am reading it seems the max safe vcore for the 4960x is also 1.4. It is apparently the same across all Ivy-E chips.
> I found this guide on guru3d and he said reaching over 4.2 is great for this chip.
> There is also this discussion and Raja seems to be shooting for a max of 1.4 vcore (as shown on page 4 or 5).
> 
> I hope this helps!


Repped ... thanks


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Repped ... thanks


Thanks and much appreciated! I try to help as best I can thought I am not as knowledgeable as most on here.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I decided to install my Soundblaster Zx card. Do I need to disable the onboard sound or does it matter?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I decided to install my Soundblaster Zx card. Do I need to disable the onboard sound or does it matter?


Doesn't matter. Once upon a time having two audio hardwares in the same system was a problem, but that's history. You can even run both of them simultaneously (you just have to select which you use for output/input in Windows sound options)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Doesn't matter. Once upon a time having two audio hardwares in the same system was a problem, but that's history. You can even run both of them simultaneously (you just have to select which you use for output/input in Windows sound options)


So far there hasn't been any conflicts. The only problem I have is the realtek software is still running in the systray. I disabled it from starting up so it shouldn't be a problem any more. That may speed up my start up by a few milliseconds as it was listed as having a high impact on startup.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Is there an ASUS representative in the house that can help?

My board has been going in and out of consciousness for the last 4 months, then at the beginning of July it just went completely dead and never recovered. I contacted ASUS, tested it over the phone as instructed, got the RMA for it, followed all the instructions, and sent it in last week. Now when I use the link that was provided to check the status, it says it has no record of my RMA. I know I'm not hallucinating because I used the same link on Friday when it arrived in Jacksonville, and there was a screen with my RMA number with some other information, with the status area left blank.

If there's an ASUS rep that can help, please PM me. Thanks.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Is there an ASUS representative in the house that can help?
> 
> My board has been going in and out of consciousness for the last 4 months, then at the beginning of July it just went completely dead and never recovered. I contacted ASUS, tested it over the phone as instructed, got the RMA for it, followed all the instructions, and sent it in last week. Now when I use the link that was provided to check the status, it says it has no record of my RMA. I know I'm not hallucinating because I used the same link on Friday when it arrived in Jacksonville, and there was a screen with my RMA number with some other information, with the status area left blank.
> 
> If there's an ASUS rep that can help, please PM me. Thanks.


I had the same problem last week with my RIVE RMA, when I was using Explorer sometimes it will not show up. So I switched to firefox and for some odd reason the updated RMA status showed up.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks so much, I am just used to going manual and selecting the timings ... selecting XMP is perfect ... Also set my CPU to 4.4ghz with stock voltages and everything seems fine so far ...
> 
> I see the highest in the club (on the first page) was a validated 4.6GHZ ... I can't imagine the best OC being so low ?


Op hasn't been updating nuthin for ages ....

Heres a [email protected] val I did

http://valid.x86.fr/qg66g8

Benched on it as well


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Op hasn't been updating nuthin for ages ....
> 
> Heres a [email protected] val I did
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/qg66g8
> 
> Benched on it as well


That's a nice cpu HOMECINEMA-PC.









How have you been man?

Have an unlocked 8 core IVY-E coming next week, can't wait!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> That's a nice cpu HOMECINEMA-PC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How have you been man?
> 
> Have an unlocked 8 core IVY-E coming next week, can't wait!


I am great thanks bud









Haven't benched much since last year . With only 4G wireless and 10 bucks a gig I cant d/l really any drivers and large files and such but I would love to bench what your getting thats fer sure .









Flat out getting 5 gigs on this sample though but the IMC is very boss . This sample has only ever run on chilled coolant at a constant 17c since purchase on one set of 16 gig 2666 dom plats

Ive pretty much not touched this setup since last year . This combo would have to be the best one ive owned and not one problem so far but I will at some stage do a spring clean / rebuild on it


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Op hasn't been updating nuthin for ages ....
> 
> Heres a [email protected] val I did
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/qg66g8
> 
> Benched on it as well


Sadly, I think us Rampage IV Black Edition owners have been forgotten about in the wake of the Rampage V. Good luck getting support here or from Asus, they've mostly left us to help ourselves. Pretty sad since we're really not that far behind performancewise.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Sadly, I think us Rampage IV Black Edition owners have been forgotten about in the wake of the Rampage V. Good luck getting support here or from Asus, they've mostly left us to help ourselves. Pretty sad since we're really not that far behind performancewise.


Prob solving on this platform is really straight forward....... its the best and last of DDR3


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @Emissary of Pain
> TBH I am not that familiar with the 4960x. It is a high end chip but according to what I have read the 4930k has a higher OC cap though only by about 600mhz. If your already at 4.4ghz that is a great start but keep an eye on your vcore. I am not sure what is the max safe vcore for the 4960x but for the 4930k it is 1.4. From what I am reading it seems the max safe vcore for the 4960x is also 1.4. It is apparently the same across all Ivy-E chips.
> I found this guide on guru3d and he said reaching over 4.2 is great for this chip.
> There is also this discussion and Raja seems to be shooting for a max of 1.4 vcore (as shown on page 4 or 5).
> 
> I hope this helps!


I must have a golden 4960x then it does 4.9 ghz with 32gb 2400 mhz ram and that clock is under 1.4 i can boot 5 under 1.4 not stable maybe if i had 16gb of ram instead.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> I must have a golden 4960x then it does 4.9 ghz with 32gb 2400 mhz ram and that clock is under 1.4 i can boot 5 under 1.4 not stable maybe if i had 16gb of ram instead.


Well that was guru3d and so far I'm finding a lot of the stuff I go on there for is misrepresented, maybe biased.


----------



## Mega Man

that is nice


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Too nice for that bloke


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Prob solving on this platform is really straight forward....... its the best and last of DDR3


And? When I spend upwards of $400 on an item, I expect some level of customer service be provided post-purchase, however advanced the platform may be. Asus, a company I usually fully support, has completely and totally dropped the ball on this IMO. It's like the day the Rampage V came out, they completely forgot that mere MONTHS earlier they had released a high end enthusiast product to an enthusiast consumer base that expects some level of service.

I promise you -- Intel "Additional Turbo Voltage" does NOT work under Windows 10, and I'll be very surprised if Asus bothers with a bios update to address the problem.

But I digress.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> And? When I spend upwards of $400 on an item, I expect some level of customer service be provided post-purchase, however advanced the platform may be. Asus, a company I usually fully support, has completely and totally dropped the ball on this IMO. It's like the day the Rampage V came out, they completely forgot that mere MONTHS earlier they had released a high end enthusiast product to an enthusiast consumer base that expects some level of service.
> 
> I promise you -- Intel "Additional Turbo Voltage" does NOT work under Windows 10, and I'll be very surprised if Asus bothers with a bios update to address the problem.
> 
> But I digress.


Its a pizz poor effort on their behalf , so if you want support from em you have to outlay for next platform ( s ) .









They really don't care . We bought their products they gots the moolah . Its a business and they are out to get what they can get for their shareholders and all that ...

So what else doesn't work on W10 , I hope neg offset vcore and 100 strap still run


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Its a pizz poor effort on their behalf , so if you want support from em you have to outlay for next platform ( s ) .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They really don't care . We bought their products they gots the moolah . Its a business and they are out to get what they can get for their shareholders and all that ...
> 
> So what else doesn't work on W10 , I hope neg offset vcore and 100 strap still run


Dont see why that would not work as it runs at the hardware level below and before operating system


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Prob solving on this platform is really straight forward....... its the best and last of DDR3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And? When I spend upwards of $400 on an item, I expect some level of customer service be provided post-purchase, however advanced the platform may be. Asus, a company I usually fully support, has completely and totally dropped the ball on this IMO. It's like the day the Rampage V came out, they completely forgot that mere MONTHS earlier they had released a high end enthusiast product to an enthusiast consumer base that expects some level of service.
> 
> I promise you -- Intel "Additional Turbo Voltage" does NOT work under Windows 10, and I'll be very surprised if Asus bothers with a bios update to address the problem.
> 
> But I digress.
Click to expand...

i have yet to see them not update something they could tbh but it does take time, i can see why x99 would get the attention first
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Its a pizz poor effort on their behalf , so if you want support from em you have to outlay for next platform ( s ) .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They really don't care . We bought their products they gots the moolah . Its a business and they are out to get what they can get for their shareholders and all that ...
> 
> So what else doesn't work on W10 , I hope neg offset vcore and 100 strap still run
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont see why that would not work as it runs at the hardware level below and before operating system
Click to expand...

yep


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> And? When I spend upwards of $400 on an item, I expect some level of customer service be provided post-purchase, however advanced the platform may be. Asus, a company I usually fully support, has completely and totally dropped the ball on this IMO. It's like the day the Rampage V came out, they completely forgot that mere MONTHS earlier they had released a high end enthusiast product to an enthusiast consumer base that expects some level of service
> 
> Had a very difficult time getting my R4BE replaced took 4 months and in the mean time purchased a second R4BE. This has been a money pit.
> 
> I promise you -- Intel "Additional Turbo Voltage" does NOT work under Windows 10, and I'll be very surprised if Asus bothers with a bios update to address the problem.
> 
> But I digress.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Its a pizz poor effort on their behalf , so if you want support from em you have to outlay for next platform ( s ) .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus has changed there tune had a R3BE board and great support form Asus. "Not on the R4BE".
> 
> They really don't care . We bought their products they gots the moolah . Its a business and they are out to get what they can get for their shareholders and all that ...
> 
> So what else doesn't work on W10 , I hope neg offset vcore and 100 strap still run


In protest of Windows 10 and staying with windows 7 period. No Longer Trust Microsoft with there new non since, Add Ware up dates from Microsoft. Could not figure out why all of a sudden the system resources increased. Read This.

http://www.simforums.com/forums/a-warning-about-ms-updates-for-windows-10_topic52577.html

Figured out the issue with my system would not boot using the power on button or reset on the front of the case. Tested the PSU Corsair Gold 1200w seemed to be fine several weeks ago. Just installed a Corsair AX1500i, replaced the power on and reset. System will start do not have to use the power on switch on the R4BE Board. I think the I7 4930K was damaged from the PSU?

Originaly clocked at 4.4 GHz V-Core 1.300v. For 10 months then had to bump the V-Core to 1.375v memory at 2133 MHz. Set at 4.4 Ghz. Currently at 4.4 Ghz 1.375v V core and the memory cut back to 1600 Mhz. At 2133m MHz cannot pass any stress test 4.4 Ghz V-Core 1.395v. Had a lot of help from Chrysnic75 and Homecinama-PC.

Is there any place to purchase a binned I7 4930K or I7 4960X looked on the net and could not find any. Do you have to take the lottery expect the worst and hope for the best? It would be cheaper for me to purchase a I7 4790K have to import the I7 4930K or I7 4960X.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I promise you -- Intel "Additional Turbo Voltage" does NOT work under Windows 10, and I'll be very surprised if Asus bothers with a bios update to address the problem.
> 
> But I digress.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> So what else doesn't work on W10 , I hope neg offset vcore and 100 strap still run


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Dont see why that would not work as it runs at the hardware level below and before operating system


It is odd but so far I have seen two people that have this problem. The one person on here (I keep forgetting who it is, please chime up) that ran it between 3 operating systems. His OCing ran fine in Win 7 but not in Win 10 or even 8.1 and that's when he checked the different setting first in the BIOS and then in the OS. The settings in the OS were defaulting to the original default values. There is a possibility that something in the Windows 10 registry is affecting certain parameters on boot up. Then again it could simply be because the OS is trying to force the default numbers over the adjusted settings in the BIOS.....


----------



## claclaclacla

hi...








I overclocked my rivbe 4500mhz for use in gaming and daily,
you place the screen of my bios with my settings, what is missing is because I left at default values.
my hardware is:
mobo: rampage iv black edition
cpu: i7 3960X
RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M4A2133C9
Density: 16GB kit (4 x 4GB)
Speed: 2.133MHz
Latency tested: 9-11-10-30
Voltage: 1.5V
PSU: Corsair ax 1200i
vga: evga gtx 980 classified

VGA and CPU are liquid cooled

















these are the temperatures that I made with the oc, not just low but mè is very hot so I hope to be normal ...
I have not done any stability test. I would like your advice first to see if you can improve ...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> hi...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I overclocked my rivbe 4500mhz for use in gaming and daily,
> you place the screen of my bios with my settings, what is missing is because I left at default values.
> my hardware is:
> mobo: rampage iv black edition
> cpu: i7 3960X
> RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M4A2133C9
> Density: 16GB kit (4 x 4GB)
> Speed: 2.133MHz
> Latency tested: 9-11-10-30
> Voltage: 1.5V
> PSU: Corsair ax 1200i
> vga: evga gtx 980 classified
> 
> VGA and CPU are liquid cooled
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these are the temperatures that I made with the oc, not just low but mè is very hot so I hope to be normal ...
> I have not done any stability test. I would like your advice first to see if you can improve ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


really nothing wrong with those temps. 40 is not bad but interesting what you get when it is underload. the only thing I would do is see if I can turn temps back from 1.35 and remain stable..


----------



## claclaclacla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> really nothing wrong with those temps. 40 is not bad but interesting what you get when it is underload. the only thing I would do is see if I can turn temps back from 1.35 and remain stable..


thanks for the reply ...
What do you advise me to do a test?
until now I have only tried to play and maximum temperatures were about 49/50 °

do you think there is some value in the bios that I can try to lower for lower temperature?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> thanks for the reply ...
> What do you advise me to do a test?
> until now I have only tried to play and maximum temperatures were about 49/50 °
> 
> do you think there is some value in the bios that I can try to lower for lower temperature?


only one thing that will lower the temps and that is to lower the CPU voltage. I would lower it by .1 and run prime 95/ do this until it is not stable and will crashes running it. need to let it run about 30 minutes. voltage drop is the only thing that will lower temps.

what is the temps in your room??


----------



## claclaclacla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> only one thing that will lower the temps and that is to lower the CPU voltage. I would lower it by .1 and run prime 95/ do this until it is not stable and will crashes running it. need to let it run about 30 minutes. voltage drop is the only thing that will lower temps.
> 
> what is the temps in your room??


ok .. I'll do the bench with prime95, today it is less hot but the temperature in my room is still 28 °


----------



## Kimir

You shouldn't need to touch the VTT and VCCSA (leave them on auto) for the amount of ram and speed used, IMO.
VCCSA could need a notch more than stock but 1.2v at those speed seem too much.

For Prime95, use custom and then set thread to 12, memory to use to 12288 and time to run each fft to 5.
If you don't want to hammer your cpu with Prime, you can use Asus realbench and Aida64 as well.


----------



## claclaclacla

excuse but because of my bad English I do not know if VCCSA 1.2 lower or raise it.
I try to put the CPU Vcore manual voltage to "1,340" or leave it as I set it?


----------



## Madmaxneo

I recommend OCCT, it has some great features like a set of graphs once it is done stress testing. The stress test is apparently equivalent to gaming tests.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have yet to see them not update something they could tbh but it does take time, i can see why x99 would get the attention first
> yep


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Dont see why that would not work as it runs at the hardware level below and before operating system


That's what I thought about Additional Turbo Voltage, but don't forget that everything at the hardware level has to work in tandem with the OS at the driver level for proper functioning. The only time your hardware settings are NOT subject to OS/software governance is in the bios rom interface. Once you boot into the loading screen and see the Windows logo, everything else that happens in your system is subject to the approval of the OS.

I agree it seems *unlikely* that Win10 would present any conflict with BCLK strapping, but I wouldn't be so confident about negative offset vcore given the problem I've encountered with Turbo &/or c-states power settings. There's a "ghost in the machine" as they say.









Or of course it's also possible I'm just doing something wrong, I do not claim to be an electical engineer... but given the time, effort, & level of detail I've put into oc'ing & troubleshooting this system I'm inclined to think it's a legitimate bug. I guess we'll find out soon enough.

*HOWEVER, note that by and large I'm very happy with Windows 10 and looking forward to the retail release this week. I'd just like to see Asus give an update as to when/if we Black Edition users are going to see any bios/driver updates/fixes.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> That's what I thought about Additional Turbo Voltage, but don't forget that everything at the hardware level has to work in tandem with the OS at the driver level for proper functioning. The only time your hardware settings are NOT subject to OS/software governance is in the bios rom interface. Once you boot into the loading screen and see the Windows logo, everything else that happens in your system is subject to the approval of the OS.
> 
> I agree it seems *unlikely* that Win10 would present any conflict with BCLK strapping, but I wouldn't be so confident about negative offset vcore given the problem I've encountered with Turbo &/or c-states power settings. There's a "ghost in the machine" as they say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or of course it's also possible I'm just doing something wrong, I do not claim to be an electical engineer... but given the time, effort, & level of detail I've put into oc'ing & troubleshooting this system I'm inclined to think it's a legitimate bug. I guess we'll find out soon enough.
> 
> *HOWEVER, note that by and large I'm very happy with Windows 10 and looking forward to the retail release this week. I'd just like to see Asus give an update as to when/if we Black Edition users are going to see any bios/driver updates/fixes.


I keep forgetting that it you were the one on this thread that has a problem with OCing.

I am also highly anticipating the release of Windows 10 this week. Unfortunately if my update time comes this week I will not be able to do it yet as I am attending the Gencon convention in Indianapolis and will not be able to set it up. I may need to remotely access my desktop while I am down there and I don't want to mess up any of the settings by doing it remotely.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I keep forgetting that it you were the one on this thread that has a problem with OCing.


I've heard it phrased better, but yeah, that was me. lol

On the bright side, it's been working great for months w/ offset vcore, as long as I don't try to use Additional Turbo Voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am also highly anticipating the release of Windows 10 this week. Unfortunately if my update time comes this week I will not be able to do it yet as I am attending the Gencon convention in Indianapolis and will not be able to set it up. I may need to remotely access my desktop while I am down there and I don't want to mess up any of the settings by doing it remotely.


You can probably just set Windows Update to automatically update and it will be all loaded and ready when you get back. I've installed/reinstalled the various beta builds dozens of times, it doesn't require user input until it's finished and you boot into the new OS for the first time.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I've heard it phrased better, but yeah, that was me. lol
> 
> On the bright side, it's been working great for months w/ offset vcore, as long as I don't try to use Additional Turbo Voltage.
> You can probably just set Windows Update to automatically update and it will be all loaded and ready when you get back. I've installed/reinstalled the various beta builds dozens of times, it doesn't require user input until it's finished and you boot into the new OS for the first time.


Yeah I was writing in a hurry....lol

I can't set it to automatically update for fear of loosing the capability to connect using remote desktop while I am away this week... It will have to wait till I get back next Monday if I am on the list for this week.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Got my new 1680 V2 today:



No 2400Mhz multi write bug to report like on other IVY-E chips.









Edit:

Scratch that about the write bug. Must have done that trick of booting up 2133MHz, then rebooting and saving 2400Mhz for the bug not to show. Shutting down the PC resets the bug's return.


----------



## Kimir

Oh sweet, not even the 2400Mhz bug! [email protected], as good as 5960X


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> ok .. I'll do the bench with prime95, today it is less hot but the temperature in my room is still 28 °


If it is 28 and with the 2 rads i saw in you build I would expect to see lower temperatures at idle!!!


----------



## claclaclacla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If it is 28 and with the 2 rads i saw in you build I would expect to see lower temperatures at idle!!!


ok .... but fans are at 50% of their speed, I do not like the noise, probably by increasing the fan speed should lower the temperature by a few degrees


----------



## Kimir

If you use fixed vcore instead of offset, of course at IDLE, with fan running at their lowest speed, the cpu will run hotter.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> You shouldn't need to touch the VTT and VCCSA (leave them on auto) for the amount of ram and speed used, IMO.
> VCCSA could need a notch more than stock but 1.2v at those speed seem too much.
> 
> For Prime95, use custom and then set thread to 12, memory to use to 12288 and time to run each fft to 5.
> If you don't want to hammer your cpu with Prime, you can use Asus realbench and Aida64 as well.


?? never leave it on auto imo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> excuse but because of my bad English I do not know if VCCSA 1.2 lower or raise it.
> I try to put the CPU Vcore manual voltage to "1,340" or leave it as I set it?


VTT and VCCSA 1.2 or LESS !

mine i use 2400 8gb dimms @ 1.1v

i know it was disscussed but i cant find it, the wifi on this board was MPCIE correct ? i am looking for a 3x3 card :E like on the RVE


----------



## Kimir

There is no issue with VTT and VCCSA on auto like there could be with vcore.
VTT at stock is 1.0v and can be left alone with 4x4GB kit and 2133Mhz. I had to increase it a notch (1.175) on my fractal rig because I have 8x4GB in there.
VCCSA is CPU dependent, the value doesn't fluctuate either, if it works at stock (typically 0.940v) it will stay as is, leaving it in auto won't make it change. With my TridentX 4x4G running at 2133Mhz C8 tight for daily, I had to set 0.960v but it works fine at stock Auto when running 2133C8 lose (secondary/tertiary on auto). On my attempt to do 2800C9 (never succeeded as I didn't want to put 2v on the mem voltage) I didn't had to change VCCSA much, I ran 2700C9 and 2800C10 with 0.960v to 1
0v.


----------



## Mega Man

ill stick with my philosophy of nothing on auto -- did you know that using xmp can and DOES change it ?

not worth it imo

2 of my sets of ram change it to 2.5 o.o


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Got my new 1680 V2 today:


Wow nice chip! Looks like 5960X's equivalent on Ivy-E.







What about temps when stressed? The 5960X is a fireball..


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ill stick with my philosophy of nothing on auto -- did you know that using xmp can and DOES change it ?
> 
> not worth it imo
> 
> 2 of my sets of ram change it to 2.5 o.o


I'm in manual, not using xmp.
It sure is fine to put a value in there instead of auto, but not a random one like woot I put 1.2 and moving on.


----------



## claclaclacla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> You shouldn't need to touch the VTT and VCCSA (leave them on auto) for the amount of ram and speed used, IMO.
> VCCSA could need a notch more than stock but 1.2v at those speed seem too much.
> 
> For Prime95, use custom and then set thread to 12, memory to use to 12288 and time to run each fft to 5.
> If you don't want to hammer your cpu with Prime, you can use Asus realbench and Aida64 as well.


these settings to prime95 correct?
when I start prime95 crashes ...



I set CPU voltage to 1.300
vtt and vccsa 1.75


----------



## Kimir

Like this

and also check those:


I sure hope you mean 1.175 on vtt and vccsa and not 1.75v!!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Wow nice chip! Looks like 5960X's equivalent on Ivy-E.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about temps when stressed? The 5960X is a fireball..


Did a cinebench run, no real stress testing yet:



Runs pretty cool.


----------



## MehlstaubtheCat

On custom torture test with prime95, round off checking and error checking are always automatically enabled.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Did a cinebench run, no real stress testing yet:
> 
> 
> 
> Runs pretty cool.


That's just plain sexy.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Download the latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver pack here


----------



## Madmaxneo

Why does this seem fishy?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Download the latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver pack here


----------



## Kimir

Drivers are up on Asus website, I wouldn't take driver on mega.


----------



## gdubc

Klevv ram finally installed:


















I have EK blocks for everything but the cpu,and I needed to get this up and running, so excuse the kraken, lol.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Drivers are up on Asus website, I wouldn't take driver on mega.


There's nothing wrong with the drivers on Mega (it's a convenient place to host files). Anyone can scan them or load them in a VM and see for themselves.

The pack includes:

Asmedia_SATA6G_3.1.6.0
Asmedia_USB3_1.16.26.1
Broadcom_Bluetooth_12.0.1.650
Broadcom_WLAN_7.35.267.0
Intel_Chipset_10.1.2.8
Intel_LAN_20.2v2
Intel_ME_11.0.0.1158
Intel_RSTE_4.3.0.1542
Realtek_HDAudio_7564_Dolby

They're more up to date than Asus' driver download page (which is needing a lot of TLC lately) and all were Windows 10 WHQL tested by Microsoft.

The drivers were also thoroughly tested by me and effortless (known to many on the XDA forums). You can just search for each of these drivers individually and get them from the actual OEM instead, but the driver pack was made to make the transition easier for everyone. Hopefully Asus' update of software (if it happens) will be much better than their Win 10 drivers' list which is very pathetic.


----------



## chrisnyc75

While I'm very happy to see Asus update their site with Win10 drivers, sadly they do not fix the Additional Turbo Voltage problem I reported months ago.


----------



## alancsalt

Asus guys used to go to Station-Drivers because Asus site was poorly updated. Nothing new in that.


----------



## Wollowon

I have two problem.Help please.

First:

When I startup PC , auto opening bios screen(no error message just normal bios screen , everything is fine) and I have to exit it to get to windows.

(Problem start occurs , If I enter the bios , if not pc booting normal , If I shutdown psu for 4-5 seconds after problem occurs everything is back to normal)

(I suspect CMOS but , I changed the settings , bios still saving)

I think it s very intresting issue.

MOTHERBOARD:ASUS RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION

BIOS VERSION:0701

Second:

In Windows 10 I cant turn off Bluetooth because "no turn on and off switch" in bluetooth device settings.


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Download the latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver pack here


Thanks saves me a ton of time looking up each driver. Works great! No issues with these drivers running Windows 10


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Not gonna bother with W10 till summer at least , this W7 copy ive been running has given me 0 dramas .

Even after benching on it for a solid 12 mths and another 8mths as a 24/7 o/sys


----------



## broken pixel

Once you tweak the enterprise edition it becomes the Abbie Hoffman of operating systems.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Asus does have a section now for Windows 10 on the site for this board. Most of the drivers are the same as they are for windows 8.1 except the Bluetooth driver which was updated more recently


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Got my replacement board from ASUS this week (dead board), but it's stuck on code 65 (CPU DXE initialization is started). My HDTV/monitor recognizes the PC is there, but i get no visual.

EDIT: Problem solved.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Did any of you guys that switched from windows 7 to 10 notice a dramatic drop in cpu core temps? I am under water. I went from idling in the 30 to the 20s? ambient have stayed the same.

My build log has my updated build.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Did any of you guys that switched from windows 7 to 10 notice a dramatic drop in cpu core temps? I am under water. I went from idling in the 30 to the 20s? ambient have stayed the same.
> 
> My build log has my updated build.


Yes, my temps are about 5c lower at idle in Win10 than they were in 7 or 8. I suspect the readings are incorrect, possibly related to the Intel 'Additional Turbo Voltage' bug I reported awhile back?


----------



## Madmaxneo

I still have not received my time to update notice for windows 10 on either of my PC or my tablet.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I still have not received my time to update notice for windows 10 on either of my PC or my tablet.


No telling how long it might be before the rollout upgrade process gets around to you, it seems the Windows Update servers are a bit overloaded from all the demand. You can download the full iso from the link below and do it anytime.









https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> No telling how long it might be before the rollout upgrade process gets around to you, it seems the Windows Update servers are a bit overloaded from all the demand. You can download the full iso from the link below and do it anytime.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10


Thanks! I did not know that existed though I will be getting the pro version because I have 8.1pro. I will check and see if I can find that one.

Bruce


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks! I did not know that existed though I will be getting the pro version because I have 8.1pro. I will check and see if I can find that one.
> 
> Bruce


It's the same tool. When you launch the tool it will prompt you to select which version you want and whether you want a .iso or usb setup


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> It's the same tool. When you launch the tool it will prompt you to select which version you want and whether you want a .iso or usb setup


Yeah I noticed that... but I am going to wait a few days till when i have the time to sit and mess with it... and after I back up some important data...


----------



## LunaP

So far things are running fine in 10, been a few days since the upgrade. Grabbed the latest drivers off the Asus website ( surprised they added updated chipset drivers so quickly )


----------



## Madmaxneo

I upgraded to windows 10 last night and so far I've had to reinstall a few things for them to work properly. The only thing I had to reinstall for the MB was the ROG Gamer first (cfos) software as every time I restarted windows I would get a message telling me to reinstall it. Consequently that was the only driver that I could find that had a more recent date that the others I had under 8.1 for the RIVBE.

I am having a problem with my Turtle Beach PX3 wireless headset. I had it set up (as per the directions) in PS3 mode so I could use the presets. But since I upgraded the mic does not work in PS3 mode. The mic does work in PC mode but there is no sound in the headset.....
For this set there is nothing to install or uninstall. I've tried removing the usb connection and reconnecting to no avail.

Any ideas?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I upgraded to windows 10 last night and so far I've had to reinstall a few things for them to work properly. The only thing I had to reinstall for the MB was the ROG Gamer first (cfos) software as every time I restarted windows I would get a message telling me to reinstall it. Consequently that was the only driver that I could find that had a more recent date that the others I had under 8.1 for the RIVBE.
> 
> I am having a problem with my Turtle Beach PX3 wireless headset. I had it set up (as per the directions) in PS3 mode so I could use the presets. But since I upgraded the mic does not work in PS3 mode. The mic does work in PC mode but there is no sound in the headset.....
> For this set there is nothing to install or uninstall. I've tried removing the usb connection and reconnecting to no avail.
> 
> Any ideas?


Did you install the chipset drivers at least, its under the Windows 10 section for the BE, essential for any new install. As for Turtle beach, check your device manager and verify Windows updates didn't install their own, if they did you can disable it for that device ( or all ) and then remove the current . This was required for anyone upgrading with Nvidia/ATI cards, since the updates were overriding the drivers, once done you'd reboot and then you could manually install the drivers in a clean fashion.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yes, my temps are about 5c lower at idle in Win10 than they were in 7 or 8. I suspect the readings are incorrect, possibly related to the Intel 'Additional Turbo Voltage' bug I reported awhile back?


yeah after doing some more research my temps are actually lower than ambient when i turned my computer on this morning it said 15c on one of my cores. Thats 59F. No way its that cold in my apartment. Anyone have a temp program that is correct I even tried Real Temp and it says the same thing as core temp.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Did you install the chipset drivers at least, its under the Windows 10 section for the BE, essential for any new install. As for Turtle beach, check your device manager and verify Windows updates didn't install their own, if they did you can disable it for that device ( or all ) and then remove the current . This was required for anyone upgrading with Nvidia/ATI cards, since the updates were overriding the drivers, once done you'd reboot and then you could manually install the drivers in a clean fashion.


I did not (re)install drivers except for the stuff associated with the cfos software (ROG Gamer 1st), and I actually used the software disc that came with the MB for that. When I looked on the ASUS website the only other driver that needed to be updated was my wifi driver as the date on that driver was 30 June of this year. All the others are dated the same as the ones I have, meaning they have not been changed for Windows 10.

Unless of course I may be missing something. When I search for drivers I go directly to support for my MB (RIVBE AC4).
Is there another place to update drivers at on the ASUS website? Do I need to reflash my bios or something like that? Other than the wifi drivers the only other entries are the bios and the bios utility (bios renamer) so I am not sure where to go other than that.

Also, it seems I am having problems with all my Logitech stuff. It seems that when I restart the OS, both my G13 gamepad and my F710 wireless controller need to be unplugged and plugged back in to work correctly. That is not really a problem with the F710 because the wireless dongle is right there in the desktop. The G13 is another problem as that is plugged into the back of the computer amongst the mess of wires........

Edit: According to my "Geforce Experience" control panel all my nVidia drivers are up to date.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> yeah after doing some more research my temps are actually lower than ambient when i turned my computer on this morning it said 15c on one of my cores. Thats 59F. No way its that cold in my apartment. Anyone have a temp program that is correct I even tried Real Temp and it says the same thing as core temp.


It's not the monitoring software that is borked, it's Windows 10's interface with Intel on-die temperature/voltage sensors. I've been saying it for months, but nobody seemed to believe me until now. lol

I have dual-boot on my system, I can switch over to Windows 7 with the *exact same* hardware setup and temperature & vcore report accurately. It reports wrong in Windows 10.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> It's not the monitoring software that is borked, it's Windows 10's interface with Intel on-die temperature/voltage sensors. I've been saying it for months, but nobody seemed to believe me until now. lol
> 
> I have dual-boot on my system, I can switch over to Windows 7 with the *exact same* hardware setup and temperature & vcore report accurately. It reports wrong in Windows 10.


Agreed I have Windows 7 on another drive also same thing


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I did not (re)install drivers except for the stuff associated with the cfos software (ROG Gamer 1st), and I actually used the software disc that came with the MB for that. When I looked on the ASUS website the only other driver that needed to be updated was my wifi driver as the date on that driver was 30 June of this year. All the others are dated the same as the ones I have, meaning they have not been changed for Windows 10.
> 
> Unless of course I may be missing something. When I search for drivers I go directly to support for my MB (RIVBE AC4).
> Is there another place to update drivers at on the ASUS website? Do I need to reflash my bios or something like that? Other than the wifi drivers the only other entries are the bios and the bios utility (bios renamer) so I am not sure where to go other than that.
> 
> Also, it seems I am having problems with all my Logitech stuff. It seems that when I restart the OS, both my G13 gamepad and my F710 wireless controller need to be unplugged and plugged back in to work correctly. That is not really a problem with the F710 because the wireless dongle is right there in the desktop. The G13 is another problem as that is plugged into the back of the computer amongst the mess of wires........
> 
> Edit: According to my "Geforce Experience" control panel all my nVidia drivers are up to date.


Anytime you upgrade an OS you want to update to the latest chipset drivers to ensure compatibility so that the new OS can make the best of it.

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/HelpDesk_Download/

Click that and select Windows 10

Or here



*Chipset Drivers* http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/Z97-K_USB31/Intel_Chipset_Win10_V10_0_27.zip

*Audio* (if not using an external card) : http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/audio/Audio_Win7-8-81-10_V6017525.zip

*LAN Drivers*: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/lan/LAN_V20_1_2019_0_WHQL.zip

*Wireless ( for anyone else )* http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/wireless/WIFI_Win10_V6_34_223_5.zip

*BT*: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/BT/Bluetooth_V1201650_WHQL_Win10.zip

It's always best to update the drivers to ensure the highest compatibility since each OS attempts to rewrite how things are processed, making previous OS drivers not always compatible.


----------



## Madmaxneo

That's odd because none of those drivers are listed for my exact MB version. I assumed there was something different because there is a different listing for my MB. I got the Assassins Creed 4 version.

I am using my Soundblaster Zx card for sound (primarily because the onboard sound would only give me single channel audio for my headset).
I decided to go with just the PC connection for the headset which only connects to the PC via USB. So maybe the chipset drivers will also correct that.

I will let you all know...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That's odd because none of those drivers are listed for my exact MB version. I assumed there was something different because there is a different listing for my MB. I got the Assassins Creed 4 version.
> 
> I am using my Soundblaster Zx card for sound (primarily because the onboard sound would only give me single channel audio for my headset).
> I decided to go with just the PC connection for the headset which only connects to the PC via USB. So maybe the chipset drivers will also correct that.
> 
> I will let you all know...


Oh! I have the same sound card, I had to update to the latest install on the Creative website, works like a charm now, you may have to uninstall the old drivers, and ensure that windows update doesn't have priority over it.

As for your Board, mines the same, though I don't know why they created a sep section for it since they abandoned it lol. The only diff is that one came with the game code and the other didn't, speaking of which I haven't even used mine haha.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Oh! I have the same sound card, I had to update to the latest install on the Creative website, works like a charm now, you may have to uninstall the old drivers, and ensure that windows update doesn't have priority over it.
> 
> As for your Board, mines the same, though I don't know why they created a sep section for it since they abandoned it lol. The only diff is that one came with the game code and the other didn't, speaking of which I haven't even used mine haha.


I have used my code, installed the game, but have since not played it...lol.
I already installed the latest drivers for my Zx soundcard, and it works fine (it did before that). But the headset is connected through a USB dongle and therefore not associated with the soundcard.

Regardless I updated all those chipset drivers and nothing worked. In fact the mic on the headset does not work at all now. The headset is still correctly identified in both recording and playback devices.

I also updated the audio chipset drivers in case that had something to do with the USB audio output for the headset, it did not work.
I think I may be downgrading back to windows 8.1 pro if there are no solutions.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have used my code, installed the game, but have since not played it...lol.
> I already installed the latest drivers for my Zx soundcard, and it works fine (it did before that). But the headset is connected through a USB dongle and therefore not associated with the soundcard.
> 
> Regardless I updated all those chipset drivers and nothing worked. In fact the mic on the headset does not work at all now. The headset is still correctly identified in both recording and playback devices.
> 
> I also updated the audio chipset drivers in case that had something to do with the USB audio output for the headset, it did not work.
> I think I may be downgrading back to windows 8.1 pro if there are no solutions.


I'd disable the Realtek in Bios, since you have the SB, have you checked Device manager to verify its showing correctly. Also in sound devices under control panel you have it set to use the Mic vs the default / (Windows Default ) ? This sounds more like a conflict.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Anytime you upgrade an OS you want to update to the latest chipset drivers to ensure compatibility so that the new OS can make the best of it.
> 
> https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/HelpDesk_Download/
> 
> Click that and select Windows 10
> 
> Or here
> 
> 
> 
> *Chipset Drivers* http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/Z97-K_USB31/Intel_Chipset_Win10_V10_0_27.zip
> 
> *Audio* (if not using an external card) : http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/audio/Audio_Win7-8-81-10_V6017525.zip
> 
> *LAN Drivers*: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/lan/LAN_V20_1_2019_0_WHQL.zip
> 
> *Wireless ( for anyone else )* http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/wireless/WIFI_Win10_V6_34_223_5.zip
> 
> *BT*: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/BT/Bluetooth_V1201650_WHQL_Win10.zip
> 
> It's always best to update the drivers to ensure the highest compatibility since each OS attempts to rewrite how things are processed, making previous OS drivers not always compatible.


Fwiw, I've actually had better luck using the drivers provided by Windows Update this go-round. I've never done that before, but Microsoft seems pretty on-the-ball these days. I recently updated the chipset and a few other drivers from Asus's website when they posted them last week, and immediately ran into problems/conflicts. Rolled back to the MS-provided drivers and everything went back to normal. Your mileage may vary.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'd disable the Realtek in Bios, since you have the SB, have you checked Device manager to verify its showing correctly. Also in sound devices under control panel you have it set to use the Mic vs the default / (Windows Default ) ? This sounds more like a conflict.


I have not disabled the Realtek in the Bios, as in windows 8.1 I was told it didn't matter. What section is that under?
The weird thing now is it does not even identify the mic at all but it does identify the headset. Even more odd is that there is still no sound in PC mode but in PS3 mode the sound does work fine (though still no mic). Please note that to get the sound in PS3 mode I had to connect the 3.5mm jack to the headset out on the soundcard (as required to use PS3 mode for the presets). So something is telling me it has something to do with the USB connection somehow, as is the case with my G13 and my F710.

UPDATE: I have discovered the G13 works fine if I cycle (unplug replug) the USB connection for that device much like the F710 controller. Since the wireless headset also connects through the USB port I can only assume that is also why that is not working at all.....
P.S. I could not find anything in the bios labeled sound controllers or Realtek though I did find an odd named sound thing....not sure if that is it or not.,

Any suggestions?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Updated Update: It seems that Asus knows of this problem with some devices and is working on a solution as I type. Hopefully soon!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have not disabled the Realtek in the Bios, as in windows 8.1 I was told it didn't matter. What section is that under?
> 
> P.S. I could not find anything in the bios labeled sound controllers or Realtek though I did find an odd named sound thing....not sure if that is it or not.,
> 
> Any suggestions?


I'm @ work but its Azreal or something iirc. Same section as enabling Wireless/BT etc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Updated Update: It seems that Asus knows of this problem with some devices and is working on a solution as I type. Hopefully soon!


Good to know, and if we're lucky they'll update soon.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm @ work but its Azreal or something iirc. Same section as enabling Wireless/BT etc.
> Good to know, and if we're lucky they'll update soon.


Azeal, I think that was the one I saw. I wasn't sure if that was just for the Realtek or some kind of system wide HD component.


----------



## Jpmboy

Hey guys - has anyone experienced an issue with this MB and offset/turbo voltage settings (aka: "Adaptive") for vcore after upgrading to WIN10? I experienced this immediately upon upgrading this rig to 10... clocks greater than 45x100 would trigger an OCP-like restart as soon as a high current load was started. 4.5GHz "adaptive" or any clock below that works fine - the problem sdeems to be restricted to 46x100 and higher (this is the MB trip point to adjust power planes which is why when you switch from 45x100 to 46x100 the board does a clockgen reset - no other multiplier changes 40-45x100, or 46-49x100 have the automatic clockgen reset as part of the bios microcode.

Additionally, cpuZ, AID64 and every other OS-based tool could not report a vcore higher than 1.280V if it isa set with "adaptive". After flashing to bios 701, loading the most recent Intel ME.. no help. Switch to fixed vcore and 4.6, 4.7 and 4.8 are working fine at the voltages they did all along - cpuZ is reporting vcore correctly. Change either/any above 45x100 to offset+Turbo.. OCP without fail. Very repoducible. So now I'm stuck on fixed vcore for anything >4.5GHz.

Anyone know a cure?










and kudos to @Kimir for the suggestion.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Hey guys - has anyone experienced an issue with this MB and offset/turbo voltage settings (aka: "Adaptive") for vcore after upgrading to WIN10? I experienced this immediately upon upgrading this rig to 10... clocks greater than 45x100 would trigger an OCP-like restart as soon as a high current load was started. 4.5GHz "adaptive" or any clock below that works fine - the problem sdeems to be restricted to 46x100 and higher (this is the MB trip point to adjust power planes which is why when you switch from 45x100 to 46x100 the board does a clockgen reset - no other multiplier changes 40-45x100, or 46-49x100 have the automatic clockgen reset as part of the bios microcode.
> 
> Additionally, cpuZ, AID64 and every other OS-based tool could not report a vcore higher than 1.280V if it isa set with "adaptive". After flashing to bios 701, loading the most recent Intel ME.. no help. Switch to fixed vcore and 4.6, 4.7 and 4.8 are working fine at the voltages they did all along - cpuZ is reporting vcore correctly. Change either/any above 45x100 to offset+Turbo.. OCP without fail. Very repoducible. So now I'm stuck on fixed vcore for anything >4.5GHz.
> 
> Anyone know a cure?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and kudos to @Kimir for the suggestion.


The issue with turbo vcore is becoming a well known one. There is one person on here who has that same problem, I think it is @chrisnyc75


----------



## reev3r

Alright, I know this is a bit off-topic at the moment, but it is a bit of an urgent matter... I upgraded to Win10 a few days after it was released, and although there are a few issues, overall it has been fine. However, I was tinkering with my Nvidia settings, trying to resolve an input lag issue in Crysis 3, and I noticed in the 'My Rig' section that it was only reporting 24GB of RAM (32GB installed), so I checked Task Manager to see if it was correct or not, unfortunately it too, was reporting 24GB. So I restarted, thinking it was a software problem, sadly, the same thing.

So I shut down, and began pulling DIMM's and the first DIMM I pulled the RAM dropped to 16GB, unfortunately, the 2nd DIMM had no change. Unfortunately however, upon reinstalling the functional DIMM, it did not get detected.

TL;DR
Suffice it to say, it seems that two of my RAM slots are not functional, and I can not identify if it is the motherboard or the IMC that is at fault.

Does anybody have any suggestions for sorting this out and identifying which it is?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Hey guys - has anyone experienced an issue with this MB and offset/turbo voltage settings (aka: "Adaptive") for vcore after upgrading to WIN10? I experienced this immediately upon upgrading this rig to 10... clocks greater than 45x100 would trigger an OCP-like restart as soon as a high current load was started. 4.5GHz "adaptive" or any clock below that works fine - the problem sdeems to be restricted to 46x100 and higher (this is the MB trip point to adjust power planes which is why when you switch from 45x100 to 46x100 the board does a clockgen reset - no other multiplier changes 40-45x100, or 46-49x100 have the automatic clockgen reset as part of the bios microcode.
> 
> Additionally, cpuZ, AID64 and every other OS-based tool could not report a vcore higher than 1.280V if it isa set with "adaptive". After flashing to bios 701, loading the most recent Intel ME.. no help. Switch to fixed vcore and 4.6, 4.7 and 4.8 are working fine at the voltages they did all along - cpuZ is reporting vcore correctly. Change either/any above 45x100 to offset+Turbo.. OCP without fail. Very repoducible. So now I'm stuck on fixed vcore for anything >4.5GHz.
> 
> Anyone know a cure?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and kudos to @Kimir for the suggestion.


Probably related to the bug in this link, which I've been reporting to MS, Intel, & Asus for months: http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/12100#post_23979277

Long story short: Win10 either won't give or can't read intel 'Additional Turbo Voltage' (also, cpu temperature readings are incorrect by about -5c)

I hadn't tried clocking my cpu lower than x46, maybe it's possible it won't read/give Additional Turbo Voltage because of the multiplier? If I have time I'll give x45 a try over the weekend and see what happens.

Fwiw, using offset vcore @ 1.344v total, my Win10 runs just fine at x46 -- I just CAN'T use "Additional Turbo Voltage" in either the bios or Intel XTU. It just won't apply it no matter what.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Probably related to the bug in this link, which I've been reporting to MS, Intel, & Asus for months: http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/12100#post_23979277
> 
> Long story short: Win10 either won't give or can't read intel 'Additional Turbo Voltage' (also, cpu temperature readings are incorrect by about -5c)
> 
> I hadn't tried clocking my cpu lower than x46, maybe it's possible it won't read/give Additional Turbo Voltage because of the multiplier? If I have time I'll give x45 a try over the weekend and see what happens.


yeah - looks pretty similar. If it's a W10 problem that's gonna be a long haul fix. I'm pretty sure it is. On which asus bios version are you experiencing the problem?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> yeah - looks pretty similar. If it's a W10 problem that's gonna be a long haul fix. I'm pretty sure it is. On which asus bios version are you experiencing the problem?


0801, though I also tried 0701 to the same results.

I have a thread going on the Rog forum (to which not a single person has ever replied lol), and one on Micrsoft.com online and the insider site. Honestly, I'm not sure anybody ever believed me until now.









https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?61871-Windows-8-1-quot-rollup-quot-update-and-Windows-10-blocking-voltage-and-or-borking-sensors

After a lot of testing, tinkering, and troubleshooting, I'm convinced it's a Win10 vs Intel on-die sensor issue, not so much Asus. But I could be wrong.


----------



## Kimir

I'm pretty sure it's related to the microcode update issue (bsod) I had on the W7 update as well. Although it is with R4E and not the BE, but it would make sense.
That updated microcode must be embedded in W10 and therefore it bork the Additional turbo voltage.

I could test all that, but I don't want to mess with my daily rig since I just fixed it lol. When I'm done with my bench rig watercooling setup, I'll try to start back the R4BE and try that microcode update then W10.
All I recall is I didn't had issue installing that microcode update on the R4BE bench setup as I was in fixed vcore, but then I wanted to set it up in offset and additional turbo voltage didn't seemed to work as I needed to put it all in the main offset, that particular CPU on the BE being a piece of junk, I wasn't sure, but it seems to be the issue here.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Yeah, I gave up troubleshooting it about a month ago. Since it works just fine for me in offset mode *as long as I don't depend on 'Additional Turbo Voltage'*, I've just revised my oc to utilitize only offset and it's perfectly stable (temps are still off, but I can compensate for that visually). At this point I'm more interested in getting my basic Win10 OS settings stable & finalized.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, I gave up troubleshooting it about a month ago. Since it works just fine for me in offset mode *as long as I don't depend on 'Additional Turbo Voltage'*, I've just revised my oc to utilitize only offset and it's perfectly stable (temps are still off, but I can compensate for that visually). At this point I'm more interested in getting my basic Win10 OS settings stable & finalized.


It's looking to be a w10 thing - shifted to 4.625/2333 for now - but I want my day-driver 4.7 turbo back !!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Update: It seems the problem I am having with some of my devices not working is more related to USB 3.0. In troubleshooting my headset with Turtle Beach I was told to plug it into a USB 2.0 port and it worked. Everything that is plugged into the 2.0 ports seem to work fine, even after a reboot and all. So this bug is particular to the 3.0 ports. At this point I am not sure if that is an ASUS or a Windows problem. I'll post again here if anything changes.


----------



## LunaP

Hmm For anyone that did a clean install on their Rive BE, can you share the steps you did, for the life of me I cannot install it, I disabled secure boot, but regardless it loads up the windows logo then goes to a black screen, so I can never get past that. Anyone experienced this?

Also seems PPC's closing earlier these days.

So attempted steps,

Disable secure boot - Fails
Run UEFI mode - Fails
Run Non UEFI mode - Fails

Install to DVD -> Fails

Basically system loads up sees it , shows the lil spinning circle and the windows logo ( on UEFI shows the ROG logo instead ) then goes to a black screen for all eternity.

Updated from 0601 -> 0701 to see if that helped but still having the issue.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm For anyone that did a clean install on their Rive BE, can you share the steps you did, for the life of me I cannot install it, I disabled secure boot, but regardless it loads up the windows logo then goes to a black screen, so I can never get past that. Anyone experienced this?
> Also seems PPC's closing earlier these days.
> So attempted steps,
> Disable secure boot - Fails
> Run UEFI mode - Fails
> Run Non UEFI mode - Fails
> Install to DVD -> Fails
> Basically system loads up sees it , shows the lil spinning circle and the windows logo ( on UEFI shows the ROG logo instead ) then goes to a black screen for all eternity.
> Updated from 0601 -> 0701 to see if that helped but still having the issue.


Hey LunaP... are you installing to a bios "secure erased" SSD? Also disconnect all drives except the dvd/usb with windows (10???) and the drive you plan to install to.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Hey LunaP... are you installing to a bios "secure erased" SSD? Also disconnect all drives except the dvd/usb with windows (10???) and the drive you plan to install to.


Hmm its a brand new 850 EVO, but let me try your suggestion. How to secure erase? Also this is way before it even asks which drive, its literally after hitting any key to boot from the USB/DVD shows the windows logo for a moment, then poof, black screen for hours.

*Edit*

No go, tried 2 sep USB sticks, 1 USB 3.0 and USB 2.0 , along w/ a DVD, still black screens on both... all other drives d/c though.

Tried w/ secure boot off as well, and UEFI set to Other. Trying to figure out how other people are doing this


----------



## gow3

Hi guys! I need some help. I just installed Windows 10. First, it would get stuck within 2 minutes of logging in the system. So I removed all of my overclocks and set everything back to default. Everything works fine. But recently, I loaded GTA 5 and after 2 minutes, the computer restarted and I got a bios message saying that the computer was shut down because of some over voltage or something. It said that Anti-surge protected my motherboard. Can you shed some light on how to prevent this? It only happened this once but 'd rather not taking any chances.


----------



## LunaP

Ok update, I got it to boot from DVD once and install, however without UEFI this is horribly slow @ booting, so attempting again but no luck using the same procedure.

Have any of you successfully reinstalled Windows 10 via UEFI mode from USB?

Ok I think I'm on to something, I tried plugging the USB into my keyboard which has a 2.0 slot and it briefly came up with a blue screen just no text or anything, then went black, however DVD UEFI / USB UEFI in 3.0 ports yield nothing. I'm so stumped right now.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm For anyone that did a clean install on their Rive BE, can you share the steps you did, for the life of me I cannot install it, I disabled secure boot, but regardless it loads up the windows logo then goes to a black screen, so I can never get past that. Anyone experienced this?
> 
> Also seems PPC's closing earlier these days.
> 
> So attempted steps,
> 
> Disable secure boot - Fails
> Run UEFI mode - Fails
> Run Non UEFI mode - Fails
> 
> Install to DVD -> Fails
> 
> Basically system loads up sees it , shows the lil spinning circle and the windows logo ( on UEFI shows the ROG logo instead ) then goes to a black screen for all eternity.
> 
> Updated from 0601 -> 0701 to see if that helped but still having the issue.


Did you try the 0801 bios update?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Did you try the 0801 bios update?


Yar 0601 and up to 0801, 0801 only adds the Memory function though nothing else it seems. This board refuses to acknowledge anything UEFI...or at least load past it, funny that 8.1 installed fine.

My old gigabyte w/ my 980X registered it just fine, I'm completely stumped.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Hey LunaP... are you installing to a bios "secure erased" SSD? Also disconnect all drives except the dvd/usb with windows (10???) and the drive you plan to install to.


**EDIT**

Ok Finally,

So adding on to Jpmboy's instructions
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Hey LunaP... are you installing to a bios "secure erased" SSD? Also disconnect all drives except the dvd/usb with windows (10???) and the drive you plan to install to.


Also disable fast boot, and always make sure secure boot is off for the meantime. Also UEFI can be quirky with some Displays/TV's given the resolution it requires so if the handshake isn't created w/ the display you get a black screen due to it not being recognized. Not that many people will have this but this is definitely something to note.

Anyways its installing now so hoepfully all is well. After this I can set my UEFI options in advanced boot.

Once done installing THEN you can reenable fast boot. Hope this helps anyone else having the same issue.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yar 0601 and up to 0801, 0801 only adds the Memory function though nothing else it seems. This board refuses to acknowledge anything UEFI...or at least load past it, funny that 8.1 installed fine.
> 
> My old gigabyte w/ my 980X registered it just fine, I'm completely stumped.


I know on mine I was having a problem with the memory not working correctly in the right slots so they had me update to the 0801 and it all worked fine from there. But I also had some serious problems getting the bios to flash correctly (it seems the update button on the back of my MB is a little touchy when it comes to being precise in how long to hold the button in), it took me like three tries (or more?) to get it right. Of course I also had to make sure it was named correctly first....just rambling here. I hope you figure out what it is on your board and please keep us updated!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I know on mine I was having a problem with the memory not working correctly in the right slots so they had me update to the 0801 and it all worked fine from there. But I also had some serious problems getting the bios to flash correctly (it seems the update button on the back of my MB is a little touchy when it comes to being precise in how long to hold the button in), it took me like three tries (or more?) to get it right. Of course I also had to make sure it was named correctly first....just rambling here. I hope you figure out what it is on your board and please keep us updated!


Yeah glad to finally have it sorted,

Going to add a Windows 10 section to the OP, and keep a list of any changes / troubleshooting tips for new installs.

Install just finished so fastboot is working as it should. Time to rehook all drives back up and pop up my displays.

*Edit*

Giving up for the night, while I managed to reinstall windows 10 via UEFI, I'm now plagued w/ further issues. Anytime I attempt to install a driver ( Sound, LAN, or anything of the sort ) the whole system locks up and I have to force shutdown/restart.

Applications are fine though, its just when drivers are "preparing to install" it just kills the system.

*Edit*
Windows update installed something, now I can install my LAN / Chipset drivers since they were missing in device manager.

SB ZxR still causes the system to freeze if I attempt to install, so waiting for creative to release the driver, ( should be within the week since they have Z and Zx out )

Hopefully that's the ONLY big issue for now. Though Windows 10 is not seeing my Overclocks (now that I turned them on ) it shows me @ stock, though in windows 8 and 7 it shows my stock and my current clock.

Is this normal or is this part of the issue where Windows ignores settings?

If anyone has a suggestion or has run into this please let me know.

No OC atm since I'm @ stock from installing. Windows 7 is still flawless, so no idea what's going on now.


----------



## gow3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gow3*
> 
> Hi guys! I need some help. I just installed Windows 10. First, it would get stuck within 2 minutes of logging in the system. So I removed all of my overclocks and set everything back to default. Everything works fine. But recently, I loaded GTA 5 and after 2 minutes, the computer restarted and I got a bios message saying that the computer was shut down because of some over voltage or something. It said that Anti-surge protected my motherboard. Can you shed some light on how to prevent this? It only happened this once but 'd rather not taking any chances.


This is the exact picture:



It happened today as well as soon as I loaded GTA online to play :/

My specs are as follows:
Corsair 1200w psu
3 x gtx 670 4gb EVGA SC
RIVE Black edition
2 SSDs
2 hard drives
24GB ram.


----------



## M11C

does anybody have the MOSFET model no. on-hand?

i'd hate to take off my waterblock to check









note: i have the version with the X79 rev 06


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm its a brand new 850 EVO, but let me try your suggestion. How to secure erase? Also this is way before it even asks which drive, its literally after hitting any key to boot from the USB/DVD shows the windows logo for a moment, then poof, black screen for hours.
> *Edit*
> No go, tried 2 sep USB sticks, 1 USB 3.0 and USB 2.0 , along w/ a DVD, still black screens on both... all other drives d/c though.
> Tried w/ secure boot off as well, and UEFI set to Other. Trying to figure out how other people are doing this


The secure SSD erase is in the tool menu in BIOS.


----------



## seross69

Guys remember this board and tech is close to 4 years old if not older going to have a lot of issues to begin with as they are going to make sure it works on newer tech first!!

Also i am not sure i like the OS interfacing with the hardware side as in control functions from bios!! Understanding their thinking but dont agree with it for everyone hopefully their will be way to turn off???


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Make sure you guys are using the latest WHQL drivers for Windows 10. The drivers on Asus' site are not the best to use as they are out of date.. although they did try to update some yesterday.

Download the latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver pack with the correct drivers for our motherboard HERE

_MD5_: da879eb3e65c19e84cb787feff0e52ab

*The original pack 07/29/15 included:*
Asmedia_SATA6G_3.1.6.0
Asmedia_USB3_1.16.26.1
Broadcom_Bluetooth_12.0.1.650
Broadcom_WLAN_7.35.267.0
Intel_Chipset_10.1.2.8
Intel_LAN_20.2v2
Intel_ME_11.0.0.1158
Intel_RSTE_4.3.0.1542
Realtek_HDAudio_7564

*Updated on 08/08/15 with:*
Broadcom_Bluetooth_12.0.1.695
Intel_ME_11.0.0.1159
Realtek_HDAudio_7576

We will update these drivers as new releases are made (as always, they will go through a testing period first). Please report any problems.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Make sure you guys are using the latest WHQL drivers for Windows 10. The drivers on Asus' site are not the best to use as they are out of date.*. although they did try to update some yesterday*.
> 
> Download the latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver pack with the correct drivers for our motherboard HERE
> 
> _MD5_: da879eb3e65c19e84cb787feff0e52ab
> 
> *The original pack 07/29/15 included:*
> Asmedia_SATA6G_3.1.6.0
> Asmedia_USB3_1.16.26.1
> Broadcom_Bluetooth_12.0.1.650
> Broadcom_WLAN_7.35.267.0
> Intel_Chipset_10.1.2.8
> Intel_LAN_20.2v2
> Intel_ME_11.0.0.1158
> Intel_RSTE_4.3.0.1542
> Realtek_HDAudio_7564
> 
> *Updated on 08/08/15 with:*
> 
> Broadcom_Bluetooth_12.0.1.695
> Intel_ME_11.0.0.1159
> Realtek_HDAudio_7576
> 
> We will update these drivers as new releases are made (as always, they will go through a testing period first). Please report any problems.


cool -Thanks. Downloaded and will see what happens... but if these are out before ASUS has them on their site.. where's you get 'em?







(always a bit cautions with chipset and ME)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> The secure SSD erase is in the tool menu in BIOS.


I posted after that saying I got, it, right now in a clean install, just system completely freezes if I attempt to install certain drivers, which I HOPE is just hardware related vs windows 10.

Boot times I"m stumped, it takes 2 minutes 12 seconds to boot up now, it just sits @ the asus logo for about 2 minutes, then the circle starts to spin underneath it, from which point 12 seconds later I'm in windows.

Any ideas?

As for the system freezing, the only thing I can find in event manager are these. It's a brand new 850 Evo though, so really hoping its not a bad drive...

_An error was detected on device \Device\Harddisk1\DR1 during a paging operation._

Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort2, was issued.

The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.

The Sync Host_Session1 service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 1 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 10000 milliseconds: Restart the service.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Make sure you guys are using the latest WHQL drivers for Windows 10. The drivers on Asus' site are not the best to use as they are out of date.. although they did try to update some yesterday.
> 
> Download the latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver pack with the correct drivers for our motherboard HERE
> 
> _MD5_: da879eb3e65c19e84cb787feff0e52ab
> 
> *The original pack 07/29/15 included:*
> Asmedia_SATA6G_3.1.6.0
> Asmedia_USB3_1.16.26.1
> Broadcom_Bluetooth_12.0.1.650
> Broadcom_WLAN_7.35.267.0
> Intel_Chipset_10.1.2.8
> Intel_LAN_20.2v2
> Intel_ME_11.0.0.1158
> Intel_RSTE_4.3.0.1542
> Realtek_HDAudio_7564
> 
> *Updated on 08/08/15 with:*
> Broadcom_Bluetooth_12.0.1.695
> Intel_ME_11.0.0.1159
> Realtek_HDAudio_7576
> 
> We will update these drivers as new releases are made (as always, they will go through a testing period first). Please report any problems.


It's interesting to note that this is one of those sites where "premium" members get first priority and if your not "premium" then you have to wait so many seconds to begin the download, then once it does begin it stops in the first minute. But on the flip side I did get it done with one of the mirrors. I am not sure if I want to trust these drivers as everything else on my PC is working great under windows 10 except for that little issue with the USB 3.0 I mentioned earlier.

On a side note like the above poster stated, there are updated chipset drivers on the ASUS website.

But I am a little unsure of something. There are two chipset drivers dated yesterday. My question is which set do I use or do I use both? the chipset drivers listed are:
*Chipset V10.1.2.8 WHQL* and the *MEI_V11.0.0.1155_20150709_WHQL_1.5M*


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> cool -Thanks. Downloaded and will see what happens... but if these are out before ASUS has them on their site.. where's you get 'em?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (always a bit cautions with chipset and ME)


We get them directly from the component manufacturer. For example, chipset and management engine drivers come from Intel directly. Audio drivers come from Realtek, USB 3.0 and Sata from Asmedia, bluetooth and wireless LAN come from Broadcom etc.

The components on the RIVBE are straight OEM components that Asus gets drivers for from the manufacturer. They don't actually "make" drivers.

You can request the latest driver from the manufacturer, look on their website or search online for the latest driver per component and make your own pack.

These drivers were all ready for the Windows 10 release as these OEMs were working with Microsoft to get their drivers WHQL (Windows Hardware Quality Lab Testing) tested well before the actual release date https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WHQL_Testing.

Asus is just too lazy to request the latest drivers and post them.. and when they do, they post old drivers or beta drivers (that are older than stable releases?!!).

Another example, on the 29th, our first pack included the latest Windows 10 Intel chipset drivers for the X79 chipset (Intel_Chipset_10.1.2.8). Asus actually updated to those yesterday, but they failed to update everything else to the latest version.

We also test these drivers and report any issues to the manufacturer of the component (as everyone else should).


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It's interesting to note that this is one of those sites where "premium" members get first priority and if your not "premium" then you have to wait so many seconds to begin the download, then once it does begin it stops in the first minute. But on the flip side I did get it done with one of the mirrors. I am not sure if I want to trust these drivers as everything else on my PC is working great under windows 10 except for that little issue with the USB 3.0 I mentioned earlier.
> 
> On a side note like the above poster stated, there are updated chipset drivers on the ASUS website.
> 
> But I am a little unsure of something. There are two chipset drivers dated yesterday. My question is which set do I use or do I use both? the chipset drivers listed are:
> *Chipset V10.1.2.8 WHQL* and the *MEI_V11.0.0.1155_20150709_WHQL_1.5M*


One driver is the x79 Chipset Driver 10.1.2.8 and the other is the Intel Mangement Engine Interface driver. They are different things, but just to note, their management engine interface driver is not the latest available. There have been some fixes released with the latest Intel_ME_11.0.0.1158.

Also, Android File Host is not a "premium" members get first priority site. You actually can not be a member unless you are an Android developer (which "EffortLess", the other contributor to this pack is). He has to wait 5 seconds before download- while we wait 10. It does not prioritize anyone and depending on the mirror, you can get ultra fast downloads regardless of who you are. He was kind enough to host on there for us so we do not have to use Mega or some of those other shady "premium" sites.


----------



## LunaP

Sparky, thanks for the info, but try to edit your posts so its not multiple posts by you in a row <3 thanks!

Also do you have any links for the latest drivers on hand by chance? You're mentioning that the current ones are not up to date on that one link, so curious if you already had the others.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> One driver is the x79 Chipset Driver 10.1.2.8 and the other is the Intel Mangement Engine Interface driver. They are different things, but just to note, their management engine interface driver is not the latest available. There have been some fixes released with the latest Intel_ME_11.0.0.1158.
> 
> Also, Android File Host is not a "premium" members get first priority site. You actually can not be a member unless you are an Android developer (which "EffortLess", the other contributor to this pack is). He has to wait 5 seconds before download- while we wait 10. It does not prioritize anyone and depending on the mirror, you can get ultra fast downloads regardless of who you are. He was kind enough to host on there for us so we do not have to use Mega or some of those other shady "premium" sites.


Thanks for the info! One thing though, after I downloaded those two files from the ASUS site the one file (Chipset V10.1.2.8 WHQL) has X99 in the actual file name. Here is the file name: Chipset_V10_1_2_8_WHQL_X99. So I am wondering if this will work right with my chipset or did ASUS mess up and put the wrong one up?


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks for the info! One thing though, after I downloaded those two files from the ASUS site the one file (Chipset V10.1.2.8 WHQL) has X99 in the actual file name. Here is the file name: Chipset_V10_1_2_8_WHQL_X99. So I am wondering if this will work right with my chipset or did ASUS mess up and put the wrong one up?


It'll work, the Intel Chipset drivers come with all the supported chipsets (including X99) in one pack.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sparky, thanks for the info, but try to edit your posts so its not multiple posts by you in a row <3 thanks!
> 
> Also do you have any links for the latest drivers on hand by chance? You're mentioning that the current ones are not up to date on that one link, so curious if you already had the others.


The link I posted has the latest drivers. Asus' Windows 10 driver's page does not.

If I have anything else to change, I'll edit my posts. Responding to different people would be kind of hard to keep editing in the same post, but I'll try my best, sorry.


----------



## LunaP

Wow the new chipset driver sent my PC into a black screen flashing panic while installing which is good to me, meaning its actually changing things. Going to install the MEI, and other drivers, and see how that fairs.

My main issue now though is with this board oddly, it takes now 3 1/2 minutes for it to boot off my 850, though while on my older board the same drive boots in 2 seconds, granted I have a couple more drives on my desktop, I can't imagine why it takes 3 minutes to sit there @ the Rog logo prior to the windows loading circle appearing underneath it,

Fast boot is supposed to speed things up, not make it archaic lol, anyone experiencing this, seems like it was about a fully minute even w/ no drives attached ( minus the Windows one )

Installed in UEFI btw.


----------



## Madmaxneo

In my attempts to fix the problem I am having with my USB 3.0 ports and some of my peripherals not working I first loaded up the drivers from the ASUS website, didn't help.
I then went through the process of loading up the drivers set that @SparkyBoy006 posted and had some fun especially with the Realtek drivers...(didn't read the readme...lol).
But that didn't help any either.
My issue, if it's not known already, is that three of my devices will not boot up correctly when plugged into a USB 3.0 port.
They are:
1. Logitech G13 Keypad
2. Logitech F710 wireless controller
3. Turtle Beach PX3 wireless headset.
I ended up plugging the headset and the G13 into USB 2.0 ports and they boot up with the PC just fine.
The F710 is still connected via a USB 3.0 port (wireless USB dongle connected to the back of the PC), When the PC boots up it shows up in the devices and printers as a usb controller but I can't access the properties. I clicked on troubleshoot and it said I needed to load up the driver and when I set it to search for it the prompt says the driver does not exist.
But if I unplug then replug the usb dongle the F710 works great.
So I am guessing there is still an issue with the USB 3.0 ports in Windows 10 and some devices.

Anyone know if this is just me or are there others that have reported a similar problem?


----------



## Madmaxneo

This is unrelated to the RIVBE board but I have to tell you guys something that was kind of hilarious and really annoying at the same time. I was having trouble getting my remote desktop connection to access my PC when away from home working correctly.

It seems that the problem with my remote desktop connection issue was with my anti virus software. For some reason when I upgraded to windows 10 all my settings got changed to include my connection to my private home network being listed as a guest or public network and turning off file and printer sharing. I contacted AVG about the issue and I had to connect to their remote support. I wonder about the tech support some companies employ and after this session I am really worried. The connected tech turned on my file and printer sharing (again I had no idea it had been turned off) and asked me to try my remote connection and it worked. When I got back to my desktop he kept asking me to try again and again. When I tried to tell him that it was working just fine over and over again. So he mentioned something about disabling AVG to see if that worked and he started to do that and I ended the session (or at least his control of it). He then kept trying to connect over and over again and I refused every time! Then I made sure he understood it was working by saying it as clear as I could "remote desktop is working now". He then proceeded to tell me to contact Microsoft on my problem with remote desktop.... Are there such things as idiot techs???

EDIT: at one point in the conversation he mentioned something that indicated I was trying to use remote desktop connection to connect to a different PC from my home PC and not connect to my home PC from another PC. I corrected him on that though I am not sure he was even listening to me throughout the entire session.... his last remark after I told him there was no reason to contact Microsoft because it was working as it should now was.... "ok".....

DOH!


----------



## LunaP

Weird, I installed the drivers SparkyBoy posted, IME and Chipset, as well as RSTE, after reboot, I'm getting BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO BSOD's and after it attempts to repair I get a DPC_Watch_Dog BSOD

Can't get into Safemode anymore or anything else, this is just turning out to be a nightmare. I think I'm going to just crawl back to windows 7 and wait 6 months for either 1) SP1 or 2) enough updates from MFC's and Windows to become more stable.

I called MS, and their suggestion is for any of these errors to reformat. Some help they are.


----------



## skynet2k8




----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Weird, I installed the drivers SparkyBoy posted, IME and Chipset, as well as RSTE, after reboot, I'm getting BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO BSOD's and after it attempts to repair I get a DPC_Watch_Dog BSOD
> 
> Can't get into Safemode anymore or anything else, this is just turning out to be a nightmare. I think I'm :thumb:going to just crawl back to windows 7 and wait 6 months for either 1) SP1 or 2) enough updates from MFC's and Windows to become more stable.
> 
> I called MS, and their suggestion is for any of these errors to reformat. Some help they are.


Bummer dude , some peeps were a bit wary of where those drivers came from ........









Where ya been ? You havent posted here for ages









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skynet2k8*


Nice ......


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Weird, I installed the drivers SparkyBoy posted, IME and Chipset, as well as RSTE, after reboot, I'm getting BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO BSOD's and after it attempts to repair I get a DPC_Watch_Dog BSOD
> 
> Can't get into Safemode anymore or anything else, this is just turning out to be a nightmare. I think I'm going to just crawl back to windows 7 and wait 6 months for either 1) SP1 or 2) enough updates from MFC's and Windows to become more stable.
> 
> I called MS, and their suggestion is for any of these errors to reformat. Some help they are.


Typical of MS, along with a few other companies that offer troubleshooting assistance. I believe comments like that are the easy way out.

Regardless I loaded up all the drivers that @SparkyBoy006 posted and they all worked fine. Though they did not fix my issue with the USB 3.0 ports. So I hope someone is still working on a fix for that.
I did notice on another board somewhere (odd google search) that someone with a different ASUS board was having problems with their USB 3.0 ports.....
I am also not sure if it was those drivers or an effect of windows 10 but my system is booting up about 5 to 10 seconds faster.
I did notice that it gets to the login screen and desktop before it starts loading up certain other items that windows 8 and 7 used to load with the start screen.
I am really enjoying windows 10 quite a bit. I configured Cortana and have been getting some laughs through her.


----------



## iSlayer

http://pcdiy.asus.com/2015/04/asus-nvme-support-poll-voice-your-opinion/

Still waiting and dreaming.

Also still dreaming about picking up a(nother) RIVBE. It was so beautiful.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Bummer dude , some peeps were a bit wary of where those drivers came from ........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where ya been ? You havent posted here for ages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice ......


They're direct from the MFC's so nothing sketchy there at least. However I'm just having bad luck all together, I'm on 0701, though may attempt to 0801 and see if that helps AT all. If not I'm going back to 0601 since I had things stable there.

Been busy raising family, and working , and drawing, mainly working on a manga.

May be expecting a 2nd soon, I have to wait and take a test.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Typical of MS, along with a few other companies that offer troubleshooting assistance. I believe comments like that are the easy way out.
> 
> Regardless I loaded up all the drivers that @SparkyBoy006 posted and they all worked fine. Though they did not fix my issue with the USB 3.0 ports. So I hope someone is still working on a fix for that.
> I did notice on another board somewhere (odd google search) that someone with a different ASUS board was having problems with their USB 3.0 ports.....
> I am also not sure if it was those drivers or an effect of windows 10 but my system is booting up about 5 to 10 seconds faster.
> I did notice that it gets to the login screen and desktop before it starts loading up certain other items that windows 8 and 7 used to load with the start screen.
> I am really enjoying windows 10 quite a bit. I configured Cortana and have been getting some laughs through her.


Wondering if it was RSTE that bricked me.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Wondering if it was RSTE that bricked me.


RSTE = Intel Rapid Storage Tech enterprise drivers?

Did you load up the current version?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> RSTE = Intel Rapid Storage Tech enterprise drivers?
> 
> Did you load up the current version?


Yeah the one from Spark's package, I think that ultimately destroyed it, though why windows would corrupt to the point of no safemode return is beyond me, I"m backing up the system now, and reinstalling.

Giving this one more shot before I revert back to 7 until SP1 is released for 10 lol.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah the one from Spark's package, I think that ultimately destroyed it, though why windows would corrupt to the point of no safemode return is beyond me, I"m backing up the system now, and reinstalling.
> 
> Giving this one more shot before I revert back to 7 until SP1 is released for 10 lol.


Good luck. I hope they do come out with some kind of SP for the problem I am having with my USB 3.0 ports, though it may be more of an ASUS problem than anything....


----------



## LunaP

Since Sparky is mostly on the ROG forums, I"m going to put out an advisory to others to please be careful when installing drivers from his driver pack. They've bricked 2 systems to the point of reinstall as of current. I'm aware 10 is ******edly bugged atm, however MEI and RSTE have been the primary culprits, as I just tested again.

The other drivers I haven't tested other than the chipset and LAN.

*Edit*

Confirmed on a 3rd PC.

******************************

Ok strange things going on here, I reverted back to 0602, and since I had my bios settings saved to a USB I tried loading. I get the msg "Failed to load the BIOS settings. Load only the profile with the same BIOS version as the current one"

Though its the same bios, so I tried 0603 and 0602 beta and neither worked.

I tried to load up the files in windows to see what version they were referring to, however windows does NOT see the files on the USB, only when in the bios

In the bios it shows [UEFI_NTFS] as if a small partition.

So I tried disk management and nothing, hidden system files/files nothing. I've no idea how to access them.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Since Sparky is mostly on the ROG forums, I"m going to put out an advisory to others to please be careful when installing drivers from his driver pack. They've bricked 2 systems to the point of reinstall as of current. I'm aware 10 is ******edly bugged atm, however MEI and RSTE have been the primary culprits, as I just tested again.
> 
> The other drivers I haven't tested other than the chipset and LAN.
> 
> *Edit*
> 
> Confirmed on a 3rd PC.
> 
> ******************************
> 
> Ok strange things going on here, I reverted back to 0602, and since I had my bios settings saved to a USB I tried loading. I get the msg "Failed to load the BIOS settings. Load only the profile with the same BIOS version as the current one"
> 
> Though its the same bios, so I tried 0603 and 0602 beta and neither worked.
> 
> I tried to load up the files in windows to see what version they were referring to, however windows does NOT see the files on the USB, only when in the bios
> 
> In the bios it shows [UEFI_NTFS] as if a small partition.
> 
> So I tried disk management and nothing, hidden system files/files nothing. I've no idea how to access them.


Are you doing a fresh install or upgrading a PC? If you had previously used RST drivers and not RSTe drivers, then you could potentially have BSODs if you install RSTe drivers over the RST drivers. I'd also suggest using a bios modded with the latest Intel EFI Raid module ROM from here. BOLTS4BREKFAST does a good job of keeping everyone updated even though Asus does not release bios updates for us anymore.

These drivers have been tested in many different scenarios. It's strange that you would get BSODs when no one else is reporting the same. Try on a fresh install and report back.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Are you doing a fresh install or upgrading a PC? If you had previously used RST drivers and not RSTe drivers, then you could potentially have BSODs if you install RSTe drivers over the RST drivers. I'd also suggest using a bios modded with the latest Intel EFI Raid module ROM from here. BOLTS4BREKFAST does a good job of keeping everyone updated even though Asus does not release bios updates for us anymore.
> 
> These drivers have been tested in many different scenarios. It's strange that you would get BSODs when no one else is reporting the same. Try on a fresh install and report back.


I've been stating multiple times that I'm using fresh clean installs, noone here would simply do an upgrade and stick with it, this is OCN. I have not installed any previous RSTE drivers, however on 3 of our comps that we clean installed on ( after upgrading ) we experienced the same issue between the 2.

I have not seen your link for the bios so I'll test that, however Windows requires being reinstalled based on the messages I'm receiving since repair/safe mode yield BSOD's since installing that.

Also does anyone here have 0601 by chance? I need to test something, if that works then I'll request that they update that one too, since it seems 0602+ my clocks aren't as great in case they changed the settings.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I guess I don't fit the norm... I do upgrades most of the time and not clean installs. I only do clean installs when I have issues and so far so good (and no I do not think the USB 3.0 problem is because of not doing a clean install).
Speaking of the USB 3.0 problem I am having. Apparently Logitech knows of this issue and has recommended to manufacturers to only update the drivers... not sure what else would be updated but that is the message they say they have been sending.

FYI, I installed all of the drivers through the links @SparkyBoy006 provided and it all seems to work ok for me here. I am not having any (known) issues from those driver installs. I am not sure if any of those drivers did anything to make something work that wasn't working because so far I have not noticed any differences. Though the SATA 3 drivers may have resulted in my system booting faster than before.


----------



## LunaP

My point is if there is going to be a custom/early release that's not public, please put some warnings in for others. For me I understand the risks, but some people aren't as intelligent and may install and break things w/o proper warning of certain procedures they should follow.

I'm not calling people out, there are people that rush, people that research, people that rely on the information from others, and those that just take the risk without question.

For me it was a fresh install on a new SSD.


----------



## mkimbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I've been stating multiple times that I'm using fresh clean installs, noone here would simply do an upgrade and stick with it, this is OCN. I have not installed any previous RSTE drivers, however on 3 of our comps that we clean installed on ( after upgrading ) we experienced the same issue between the 2.
> 
> I have not seen your link for the bios so I'll test that, however Windows requires being reinstalled based on the messages I'm receiving since repair/safe mode yield BSOD's since installing that.
> 
> Also does anyone here have 0601 by chance? I need to test something, if that works then I'll request that they update that one too, since it seems 0602+ my clocks aren't as great in case they changed the settings.


LunaP

Have you actually downloaded Bolts4brekfast latest bios for the R4BE motherboard. I have been working with Bolts4brekfast to update my two Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard's...

I cannot get them to update. I have formatted USB drives with Fat32 and then downloaded his R4BE.Cap file to the USB, and used the flash back. But I get no light to blink on the fast back connection.

So I was wondering if you got it to work? If so what kind of USB Flash drive are you using, and if anything are you doing different with the file.

Any Help would greatly be appreciate.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mkimbro*
> 
> LunaP
> 
> Have you actually downloaded Bolts4brekfast latest bios for the R4BE motherboard. I have been working with Bolts4brekfast to update my two Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard's...
> 
> I cannot get them to update. I have formatted USB drives with Fat32 and then downloaded his R4BE.Cap file to the USB, and used the flash back. But I get no light to blink on the fast back connection.
> 
> So I was wondering if you got it to work? If so what kind of USB Flash drive are you using, and if anything are you doing different with the file.
> 
> Any Help would greatly be appreciate.


Not yet, I've downloaded it just haven't had the time to reboot and try it, since I'm debating between sending back my 4k tv and getting a 32" 120hz 1440p display panel or a 4k 32" monitor instead.


----------



## dboythagr8

Think I'm going to stay on W8.1 for a while longer. No real rush to upgrade to W10. Want to give them some time to iron out issues.

I haven't posted in this thread in some time, but I am curious about my VCORE. I have it currently set at 1.4v although that seems to fluctuate between 1.392 in HWMonitor. My OC is at 4.4ghz, but I've had it at 4.6ghz in the past. I am set to MANUAL. Is this too high for my current OC? As I type this I am getting temps in the mid 30s. When gaming it never breaks lower 70s.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I've been stating multiple times that I'm using fresh clean installs, noone here would simply do an upgrade and stick with it, this is OCN. I have not installed any previous RSTE drivers, however on 3 of our comps that we clean installed on ( after upgrading ) we experienced the same issue between the 2.
> 
> I have not seen your link for the bios so I'll test that, however Windows requires being reinstalled based on the messages I'm receiving since repair/safe mode yield BSOD's since installing that.
> 
> *Also does anyone here have 0601 by chance*? I need to test something, if that works then I'll request that they update that one too, since it seems 0602+ my clocks aren't as great in case they changed the settings.


These earlier ones I have:
403
507
602
603

no 601...?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> These earlier ones I have:
> 403
> 507
> 602
> 603
> 
> no 601...?


0601 was posted somewhere in the thread here by Raja from ROG iirc. I'm still searching for it. At least its referenced on the ROG forums too.

If anyone has the modded version of 0602 I'd appreciate it, seems to be the most stable for me by far as far as my OC settings went.

Also anyone else have the issue where they can save their bios settings to USB, but it ONLY shows up on the USB when looking via BIOS while in windows it shows nothing?

I want to see if I can pull the settings I had in the file out since its not matching up with any of the bios updates sadly...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 0601 was posted somewhere in the thread here by Raja from ROG iirc. I'm still searching for it. At least its referenced on the ROG forums too.
> 
> If anyone has the modded version of 0602 I'd appreciate it, seems to be the most stable for me by far as far as my OC settings went.
> 
> Also anyone else have the issue where they can save their bios settings to USB, but it ONLY shows up on the USB when looking via BIOS while in windows it shows nothing?
> 
> I want to see if I can pull the settings I had in the file out since its not matching up with any of the bios updates sadly...


Here's what I found from Raja on the bios differences but no link.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> 0601 was the 125 strap patch for CPU ratios over 36 only. 0602 = 0601 + current sensing patch. That's all.


But then there this and the link still seems to work
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOAethyr*
> 
> You're supposed to use slots 1+3, not 1+2..
> Anyways
> 
> There's a beta bios out, it's only meant for sandy bridge though (as a fix for them...).
> Ver 0601:
> http://www.mediafire.com/download/1y0td8uba9y453i/RAMPAGE-IV-BLACK-EDITION-ASUS-0601.zip
> 
> Thread:
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44056-R4EBE-beta-UEFI-build-for-SNb-E-and-125-strap-need-a-beta-tester-please!&s=5309f4e23e9d3d5241a3548d29a752d3&country=&status=


----------



## LunaP

Hmm ok that clarifies that then.. I'm positive I had 0602. No idea why on any of the bios's I use that my OC saved settings won't load.

Wish I could see them via windows.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> It's looking to be a w10 thing - shifted to 4.625/2333 for now - but I want my day-driver 4.7 turbo back !!


Ok, so long story short: after several small but annoying problems I wasn't able to solve with troubleshooting, I ended up just doing a fresh clean install of Windows 10 -- same bios settings @4.6ghz. Everything was looking excellent this go-round, but now I'm seeing another error I'm at a loss to explain...

Get this:


Bios multiplier is set to x46 (Turbo ENABLED, c-states AUTO, etc etc)
vcore reports accurately (offset mode, no "additional turbo voltage" - I've given up that fight for now)
Intel XTU reports cpu clock *@ 4600mhz*at load.
AIDA & CPU-Z report cpu clock *@ 4472mhz* at load.
VVhat???

I literally haven't touched Power Settings, so everything in Windows should be default. I haven't even installed AI Suite yet, so I can rule out that potential software conflict right away.

I'm using the original chipset v9.2.3.1032 (I had problems after installing the newer one in my previous W10 installation)

I'm using Intel Management Engine v11.0.0.1158 (though it's showing up in Device Manager as 1157 (?)), which seems to frequently "crash" (?).
The device shows _"This device cannot start. (Code 10) STATUS_DEVICE_POWER_FAILURE_", though this isn't consistent -- sometimes it works, other times it appears not to.

**edit: Uninstalling XTU fixed the crashing MEI problem, but not the misreporting clock. I'm thinking it has to do with HPET? I've managed to sync it with the OS useplatformclock but it's still not reading the clock correctly


----------



## mkimbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Not yet, I've downloaded it just haven't had the time to reboot and try it, since I'm debating between sending back my 4k tv and getting a 32" 120hz 1440p display panel or a 4k 32" monitor instead.


Has anyone downloaded the latest bios 0701 or 0801 with the latest RST firmware update in it, from "Bolts4brekfast" at ASUS ROG Website. If so how well did go? and what brand USB flash drive did you use?

For Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard

Help would greatly be appreciated.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mkimbro*
> 
> Has anyone downloaded the latest bios 0701 or 0801 with the latest RST firmware update in it, from "Bolts4brekfast" at ASUS ROG Website. If so how well did go? and what brand USB flash drive did you use?
> 
> For Rampage IV Black Edition Motherboard
> 
> Help would greatly be appreciated.


Just a question for you, are you putting it into the Bios USB port? Since there appears to be only 1( maybe 2 )? I haven't pulled out my book to see which one that was.

I also can't do it right now since I just cleaned out my loop yesterday and apparently cracked the seal on my res from running it due to pressure. Letting it dry for a day before I refill and test, then I'll flash the new Bios.

Waiting for him to upload 0602 though since 0701 and 0801 don't play well with OC's, that or the way things work may have changed since my settings kept causing reboots on anything post 0602.

@MadMax

ZxR Drivers for windows 10 released today.

http://support.creative.com/Downloads/searchdownloads.aspx?filename=SBZxR_CD_L13_1_01_01.exe&ShowDetails=1


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I also can't do it right now since I just cleaned out my loop yesterday and apparently cracked the seal on my res from running it due to pressure. Letting it dry for a day before I refill and test, then I'll flash the new Bios.


Not certain if you are aware or not, but a UEFI/BIOS flash can be done without a CPU installed...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Not certain if you are aware or not, but a UEFI/BIOS flash can be done without a CPU installed...


I am, just needs a PSU, but PC is still drying off as I drained it. Rather let any parts that got wet dry since I flushed w/ hot water but not distilled.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I am, just needs a PSU, but PC is still drying off as I drained it. Rather let any parts that got wet dry since I flushed w/ hot water but not distilled.


Oh, gotcha. I thought you meant that your liquid cooling components were not installed.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Ok, so long story short: after several small but annoying problems I wasn't able to solve with troubleshooting, I ended up just doing a fresh clean install of Windows 10 -- same bios settings @4.6ghz. Everything was looking excellent this go-round, but now I'm seeing another error I'm at a loss to explain...
> 
> Get this:
> 
> 
> Bios multiplier is set to x46 (Turbo ENABLED, c-states AUTO, etc etc)
> vcore reports accurately (offset mode, no "additional turbo voltage" - I've given up that fight for now)
> Intel XTU reports cpu clock *@ 4600mhz*at load.
> AIDA & CPU-Z report cpu clock *@ 4472mhz* at load.


FYI, I fixed this by DISABLING Intel Virtualization Technology (VT-d) in the bios. For some reason, with virtualization enabled in Windows 10 BCLK fluctuates between 94-99 but never stabilizes. With virtualization disabled it's stable at 100 (as set in the bios). I have no idea why.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> FYI, I fixed this by DISABLING Intel Virtualization Technology (VT-d) in the bios. For some reason, with virtualization enabled in Windows 10 BCLK fluctuates between 94-99 but never stabilizes. With virtualization disabled it's stable at 100 (as set in the bios). I have no idea why.


Interesting, I'll have to test this, what as the error you were getting that caused you to look for this?

I have mine on for VMware so I can run 64 bit OS's. However until a fix rolls out I can easily just disable it.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Interesting, I'll have to test this, what as the error you were getting that caused you to look for this?
> 
> I have mine on for VMware so I can run 64 bit OS's. However until a fix rolls out I can easily just disable it.


My cpu clock had been reporting weird clocks for several days, and after several days of troubleshooting I noticed in AIDA that BCLK was fluctuating. It took quite a few googles to find the answer (99% of references around the internet to fluctuating cpu clock just lead to an explanation of EIST), but somewhere I found a report of Hyper-V being the culprit..... and PRESTO, disabling it did the trick.

I still don't understand why Intel XTU reported the typical/expected clock while everything else reported fluctuating BCLK, or why I'm only seeing this in Windows 10 (everything reported as expected in Windows 7). Now I'm wondering if Hyper-V might be the root of the Additional Turbo Voltage bug I've been seeing in Win10 for months. I haven't had time to test it yet, but I'll test it tonight and report back.


----------



## KingT

I have R-IV-Formula , 4930K and 4x4GB G-Skill RipjawZ 2133MHz CL9.

Currently I'm running 125MHz BCLK , 35x multi (4.375GHz) and RAM @ 2333Mhz 10-12-12-31 1.65V 100% stable.

My RAM can also work @ 2666MHz 11-13-13-35, 1.65 but when I use it I have RAM performance decrease according to Aida64.

So every setting is the same only RAM speed is @ 2666Mhz and timings 11-13-13-35 and results are :

2333Mhz, CL10-12-12-31, 125MHz BCLK:

Read: 64GB/s
Write: 66GB/s
Copy: 63GB/s
Latency: 53 ns

2666MHz, CL11-13-13-35, 125MHz BCLK:

Read: 60GB/s
Write: 48GB/s
Copy: 61GB/s
Latency: 55 ns

So what's the cause of this performance drop especially Write performance, it should be much better?

The same "Write" bug happens when running 2400MHz and 100MHz BCLK, 10-11-11-31.

CHEERS..


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> I have R-IV-Formula , 4930K and 4x4GB G-Skill RipjawZ 2133MHz CL9.
> 
> Currently I'm running 125MHz BCLK , 35x multi (4.375GHz) and RAM @ 2333Mhz 10-12-12-31 1.65V 100% stable.
> 
> My RAM can also work @ 2666MHz 11-13-13-35, 1.65 but when I use it I have RAM performance decrease according to Aida64.
> 
> So every setting is the same only RAM speed is @ 2666Mhz and timings 11-13-13-35 and results are :
> 
> 2333Mhz, CL10-12-12-31, 125MHz BCLK:
> 
> Read: 64GB/s
> Write: 66GB/s
> Copy: 63GB/s
> Latency: 53 ns
> 
> 2666MHz, CL11-13-13-35, 125MHz BCLK:
> 
> Read: 60GB/s
> Write: 48GB/s
> Copy: 61GB/s
> Latency: 55 ns
> 
> So what's the cause of this performance drop especially Write performance, it should be much better?
> 
> The same "Write" bug happens when running 2400MHz and 100MHz BCLK, 10-11-11-31.
> 
> CHEERS..


This is an old issue, been around since the dawn of Rampage IV. It's known as the "2400mhz write bug". Asus has no intention of fixing it.

IIRC, you have to shut down and cold boot to fix it -- it only happens after a restart. Though I could be wrong, I've never really bothered clocking my ram beyond 2133.


----------



## KingT

Yeah I'm aware of this Read bug but I thought there's some kind of work around to fix it.

I'm also happy running 2333Mhz and 125BCLK "bug free" but still it's a shame since my RAM can work @ 2666Mhz due this bug I'm not able to use it.

CHEERS..


----------



## Kimir

Yep damn bug, that's why I'm using tight 2133C8 instead of any higher.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> My cpu clock had been reporting weird clocks for several days, and after several days of troubleshooting I noticed in AIDA that BCLK was fluctuating. It took quite a few googles to find the answer (99% of references around the internet to fluctuating cpu clock just lead to an explanation of EIST), but somewhere I found a report of Hyper-V being the culprit..... and PRESTO, disabling it did the trick.
> 
> I still don't understand why Intel XTU reported the typical/expected clock while everything else reported fluctuating BCLK, or why I'm only seeing this in Windows 10 (everything reported as expected in Windows 7). Now I'm wondering if Hyper-V might be the root of the Additional Turbo Voltage bug I've been seeing in Win10 for months. I haven't had time to test it yet, but I'll test it tonight and report back.


Hmm do you think disabling Hyper-V services would help or is it strictly hardware related? I disabled Vt-d last night, but spent all day cleaning my loop which I found had 0 residue or anything, filter was spotless after 20 months of straight distilled water + Dead water. So flushed it and refilled.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> I have R-IV-Formula , 4930K and 4x4GB G-Skill RipjawZ 2133MHz CL9.
> 
> Currently I'm running 125MHz BCLK , 35x multi (4.375GHz) and RAM @ 2333Mhz 10-12-12-31 1.65V 100% stable.
> 
> My RAM can also work @ 2666MHz 11-13-13-35, 1.65 but when I use it I have RAM performance decrease according to Aida64.
> 
> So every setting is the same only RAM speed is @ 2666Mhz and timings 11-13-13-35 and results are :
> 
> 2333Mhz, CL10-12-12-31, 125MHz BCLK:
> 
> Read: 64GB/s
> Write: 66GB/s
> Copy: 63GB/s
> Latency: 53 ns
> 
> 2666MHz, CL11-13-13-35, 125MHz BCLK:
> 
> Read: 60GB/s
> Write: 48GB/s
> Copy: 61GB/s
> Latency: 55 ns
> 
> So what's the cause of this performance drop especially Write performance, it should be much better?
> 
> The same "Write" bug happens when running 2400MHz and 100MHz BCLK, 10-11-11-31.
> 
> CHEERS..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> This is an old issue, been around since the dawn of Rampage IV. It's known as the "2400mhz write bug". Asus has no intention of fixing it.
> 
> IIRC, you have to shut down and cold boot to fix it -- it only happens after a restart. Though I could be wrong, I've never really bothered clocking my ram beyond 2133.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> Yeah I'm aware of this Read bug but I thought there's some kind of work around to fix it.
> 
> I'm also happy running 2333Mhz and 125BCLK "bug free" but still it's a shame since my RAM can work @ 2666Mhz due this bug I'm not able to use it.
> 
> CHEERS..


I had this issue a while back, probably a few hundred pages ago, while there's a bug you can still pull it off with proper voltage/Timing adjustments. If Cadaveca is still around he could easily fix you, took him a few days and got me rolling.

Whats your VCCA/VTT set to? as well as your secondary timings?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm do you think disabling Hyper-V services would help or is it strictly hardware related? I disabled Vt-d last night, but spent all day cleaning my loop which I found had 0 residue or anything, filter was spotless after 20 months of straight distilled water + Dead water. So flushed it and refilled.


I haven't tested it, but I suspect it has more to do with the OS than the hardware. I did try stopping the service (not disabling it), to no effect. But the problem didn't manifest until I installed Hyper-V through Windows Update (though I think I previously had the hardware settings ENABLED in the bios). Hyper-V enabled in the bios but NOT installed in the OS seems to have no effect. But as soon as I installed it in the OS, even turning off the services didn't stop the weird BCLK effect. Turning it off in the bios did. So, I *think* the options are to either uninstall it from the OS or disable it in the bios.

I can't wait to get home and test "Additional Turbo Voltage" with Hyper-V disabled AND uninstalled. If it works as expected, I'm going to give Microsoft, Intel, AND Asus hell for not figuring this out sooner than I did. lol


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yep damn bug, that's why I'm using tight 2133C8 instead of any higher.


Fwiw, mathematically there should be no performance difference between 2133C8 and 2400C9


----------



## Kimir

I know, that's why I keep it that way, no bug at least. My ram can go to 2800c10 at 1.65v tho, failed to do 2800c9 even with 1.9v, they must need 2v or more, but that's no way for daily.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Fwiw, mathematically there should be no performance difference between 2133C8 and 2400C9


True, I have the same speeds, since I have 64Gb G.Skill I set it to [email protected] 9-11-11-25 runs flawless, I had it tighter initially but laxed it just a tad for those " just in case " moments.

I stream half the time I'm gaming so the speeds help.

@Chrisnyc75

I posted your results in the Windows 10 thread to see if others can share the same. +Rep for the find!

That might explain why I had random Hard resets in 8, and 1 in 10. My settings are pretty tight for my CPU and I'm also @ block 100, I can't seem to do well with 133 or 193. To much to factor in.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> True, I have the same speeds, since I have 64Gb G.Skill I set it to [email protected] 9-11-11-25 runs flawless, I had it tighter initially but laxed it just a tad for those " just in case " moments.
> 
> I stream half the time I'm gaming so the speeds help.
> 
> @Chrisnyc75
> 
> I posted your results in the Windows 10 thread to see if others can share the same. +Rep for the find!
> 
> That might explain why I had random Hard resets in 8, and 1 in 10. My settings are pretty tight for my CPU and I'm also @ block 100, I can't seem to do well with 133 or 193. To much to factor in.


Thanks







I'm in the MS "insider program" (or whatever it's called now), I'll post a bug report about it to MS tonight too.


----------



## LunaP

Welp Sparky and his friends Bios updates just won't install. Tried formatting 9 diff USB sticks + 5 others from coworkers (after backing them up) Attempted the suggestion on forums too via other machines then copying it over, nothing, the thing just won't boot it. With others having issues I think there's something that bolts isn't telling people.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Just a question for you, are you putting it into the Bios USB port? Since there appears to be only 1( maybe 2 )? I haven't pulled out my book to see which one that was.
> 
> I also can't do it right now since I just cleaned out my loop yesterday and apparently cracked the seal on my res from running it due to pressure. Letting it dry for a day before I refill and test, then I'll flash the new Bios.
> 
> Waiting for him to upload 0602 though since 0701 and 0801 don't play well with OC's, that or the way things work may have changed since my settings kept causing reboots on anything post 0602.
> 
> @MadMax
> 
> ZxR Drivers for windows 10 released today.
> 
> http://support.creative.com/Downloads/searchdownloads.aspx?filename=SBZxR_CD_L13_1_01_01.exe&ShowDetails=1


I didn't see this. Luckily I was going through the list trying to see who else was having problems with the bios updates that SparkyBoy006 posted and I came upon the link..
Thanks LunaP, I'll check it out but it seems the problem has been corrected by a windows update.


----------



## LunaP

Windows 10 hates the RIVEBE, or at least mine, I cannot get a good install even did UEFI from DVD and STILL issues, loading up the loading thing keeps freezing/jerking every few seconds. Installing GPU drivers screen goes black forever till reboot. Disable hardware updates still installs anyways, random BSOD's regardless of what source I use to install.

Bolt needs to write a proper guide how to install, or what settings/versions would cause it NOT to read the USB port.. This has been the WORST release Microsoft has done, without really testing anything and they had years!

*Edit*

100% Confirmed its Sparkyboy's drivers that are futzing the system up, going to download them directly and reinstall.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Windows 10 hates the RIVEBE, or at least mine, I cannot get a good install even did UEFI from DVD and STILL issues, loading up the loading thing keeps freezing/jerking every few seconds. Installing GPU drivers screen goes black forever till reboot. Disable hardware updates still installs anyways, random BSOD's regardless of what source I use to install.
> 
> Bolt can't design a bios that works correctly for users, or fails to write a proper guide on how to install. This has been the WORST release Microsoft has done, without really testing anything and they had years!
> 
> *Edit*
> 
> 100% Confirmed its Sparkyboy's drivers that are futzing the system up, going to download them directly and reinstall.
> 
> I'd love to know why Bolts4breakfast couldn't just make a normal bios file to install.. Obviously can't install from inside bios due to security verification check.


I'm not having any problems with windows 10 other than the USB 3.0 problem and that seems to be fixed now....
The only bios I am using is the official 0801 bios and I am using the drivers SparkyBoy006 provided.
On the flip side I am limited to 4.3 ghz stable on my 4930k, which is below average. I am getting the cpu replaced via the intel replacement program (the odds are in my favor that I will get a better cpu). I have been stuck at the 4.3 ghz since I built this machine so it isn't windows 10, though I have yet to try and increase my OC higher since installing windows 10.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I'm not having any problems with windows 10 other than the USB 3.0 problem and that seems to be fixed now....
> The only bios I am using is the official 0801 bios and I am using the drivers SparkyBoy006 provided.
> On the flip side I am limited to 4.3 ghz stable on my 4930k, which is below average. I am getting the cpu replaced via the intel replacement program (the odds are in my favor that I will get a better cpu). I have been stuck at the 4.3 ghz since I built this machine so it isn't windows 10, though I have yet to try and increase my OC higher since installing windows 10.


yes you've already said that, and I get it , its diff per person, however its only when I install them does my system destroy itself, anything that loads the system locks up while its doing it I cannot move my mouse or use my keyboard as it ignores input till it finishes w/e the hell its doing.

I can't get these damn custom bios's installed either, I've gone through EVERY major flashdrive namebrand now, FAT32, NTFS,exFAT etc, reverted to an earlier bios in hopes it would see it.
Removed .CAP , changed to .ROM, verified it wasn't a double extension. Tried other variations, then back to R4BE.CAP NOTHING. I'm on bios defaults and I randomly get "Overclock failed" when booting up. SERIOUSLY!.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@LunaP
Your braver than I, I am not confident enough to start using a custom bios.
Is it possible to permanently screw up the bios (including the ability to flash the bios) when messing with a custom bios?
The fact that you can't even flash your bios points to something more serious.
If your system is freezing up on the simplest tasks then do you think it might be associated with the cpu or even the ram?

I am not saying anything below is close to the issue your facing but I am mentioning a few things in hopes you might get an idea of something....

I know when I was using the 0602 bios none of my ram worked correctly in the recommended spots, they had to be in direct order (A1, A2, B1, B2 etc). It wasn't until I installed the 0801 (per ASUS tech support) that it worked correctly. Though I believe the RAM issue was fixed in 0701, not exactly sure.
When I flashed my bios it took me like 3 or 4 tries till it flashed correctly. It seems my particular board is touchy about the exact moment I need to let go of the button in the back. I think it needs to blink twice and I have to let it go right at the second flash (or something like that).
I also had a problem with improperly seated RAM at one point (though the system would not even boot). It wasn't until I noticed the slight difference in height (almost imperceptible) of one of the RAM modules, I had to remove then reseat the module to get it to fit right....


----------



## LunaP

0801/0701 are causing me issues, Windows 7 runs fine w/ my settings otherwise, its 10 that can't run with stock and OR OC's. Hell I can't even boot into 10 now even though I just resinstalled it now that I changed out the bios again. That's how paper thin this crap is. I give up. I'm going back to 7, I might upgrade to 8.1 but 10 just is NOT ready for gamer's / techs yet. MS is getting way to lazy.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Here is an updated Windows 10 WHQL driver pack and now it includes a modded 0801 BIOS.

08/14/15
Updated:
Intel_Chipset_10.1.2.9
Intel_ME_11.0.0.1162 (driver will show .1160 in device manager, the driver package is .1162)
Realtek_HDAudio_7581
Added:
Intel_RST_14.6.1029
RIVBE 0801 Modded BIOS

Since some people were having problems with Bolts4brekfast's modded bios, we've made our own. Try the one in the pack, instructions are also included. It's very simple and safe. The RIVBE comes with two bios chips just in case one becomes corrupt from a bad flash and even if they both are corrupted, you can still use the flashback method to fix that.

By modded we mean, we've updated CPU microcode, OROM & Intel EFI IRST v14.5.0.2241, and EFI Intel LAN Gigabit UNDI v0.0.07. BIOSs are composed of parts that come from OEMs as well. They're like ROMs/Modules inside the BIOS container, so the modding is just replacing the old ROM part with the new one that the manufacturer of that device has released. The most popular being the Intel Option ROM. Here is a bit about it from Intel explaining that the driver you use with it can be newer than the ROM itself. For example, the one updated in this bios is v14.5.0.2241, but the RAID driver is 14.6.1029, which intel is saying is ok to use.

For non-RAID systems, we recommend the Intel RSTE driver and for RAID use Intel RST. Do not try to uninstall and switch between these drivers as that can cause BSODs. A full format is recommended if you want to switch between the two and experiment. More can be read here.



That's my install with 2 500GB Samsung EVO 850s running RAID 0 with the updated BIOS and Intel RST driver.

@LunaP, you might have some hardware problems causing those issues the way you describe it as being "paper thin". Windows 10 is very stable on the RIVBE.

Just for reference, If you get a black screen for 15secs or more before inputting your password at the login screen, that's caused by the latest AMD drivers 15.7.1 https://community.amd.com/thread/184727 but all the other things you mention are not "100% Confirmed its Sparkyboy's drivers that are futzing the system up, going to download them directly and reinstall" as you put it. You are the only one with these issues and it's more likely something particular to your install or a hardware problem than these OEM drivers which have worked for everyone including me.

I hope this is beneficial for everyone. There are many people with RIVBEs with Windows 10 installed and are enjoying it, do not let LunaP's experience scare you.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Here is an updated Windows 10 WHQL driver pack and now it includes a modded 0801 BIOS.
> 
> 08/14/15
> Updated:
> Intel_Chipset_10.1.2.9
> Intel_ME_11.0.0.1162 (driver will show .1160 in device manager, the driver package is .1162)
> Realtek_HDAudio_7581
> Added:
> Intel_RST_14.6.1029
> RIVBE 0801 Modded BIOS
> 
> Since some people were having problems with Bolts4brekfast's modded bios, we've made our own. Try the one in the pack, instructions are also included. It's very simple and safe. The RIVBE comes with two bios chips just in case one becomes corrupt from a bad flash and even if they both are corrupted, you can still use the flashback method to fix that.
> 
> By modded we mean, we've updated CPU microcode, OROM & Intel EFI IRST v14.5.0.2241, and EFI Intel LAN Gigabit UNDI v0.0.07. BIOSs are composed of parts that come from OEMs as well. They're like ROMs/Modules inside the BIOS container, so the modding is just replacing the old ROM part with the new one that the manufacturer of that device has released. The most popular being the Intel Option ROM. Here is a bit about it from Intel explaining that the driver you use with it can be newer than the ROM itself. For example, the one updated in this bios is v14.5.0.2241, but the RAID driver is 14.6.1029, which intel is saying is ok to use.
> 
> For non-RAID systems, we recommend the Intel RSTE driver and for RAID use Intel RST. Do not try to uninstall and switch between these drivers as that can cause BSODs. A full format is recommended if you want to switch between the two and experiment. More can be read here.
> 
> 
> 
> That's my install with 2 500GB Samsung EVO 850s running RAID 0 with the updated BIOS and Intel RST driver.
> 
> @LunaP, you might have some hardware problems causing those issues the way you describe it as being "paper thin". Windows 10 is very stable on the RIVBE.
> 
> Just for reference, If you get a black screen for 15secs or more before inputting your password at the login screen, that's caused by the latest AMD drivers 15.7.1 https://community.amd.com/thread/184727 but all the other things you mention are not "100% Confirmed its Sparkyboy's drivers that are futzing the system up, going to download them directly and reinstall" as you put it. You are the only one with these issues and it's more likely something particular to your install or a hardware problem than these OEM drivers which have worked for everyone including me.
> 
> I hope this is beneficial for everyone. There are many people with RIVBEs with Windows 10 installed and are enjoying it, do not let LunaP's experience scare you.


Yes everyone run for your lives, because 1 person had an issue that means you should TOTALLY avoid it







obviously my PC is the role model for all PC's so if something breaks it OBVIOUSLY it will break everyone else's, isn't that right der Sparky~









Alright sparky, please calm down I wasn't attacking you and you don't have to get all wriled up because I provided feedback , I'm not trying to scare people, I'm just providing updates, yes the driver pack you uploaded bricked me 3x, its not hardware related since 7 and 8.1 run flawlessly, I've attempted other multiple ISO's and downloading the drivers directly from the MFC's fixed my issue. Whatever it was with yours, my system didn't like, not calling you out, just again making my updates so chill. This is a RIVEBE thread so obviously we keep eachother posted with what happens, why it happenned, what we tested, how we got to where we were testing etc.

I don't have AMD, I don't use AMD products, I don't use passwords for login, RSTE bricked me 3x, however the latest that I downloaded manually went through fine. I'm not the only one, so you can stop getting defensive there. We appreciate the support and updates, however if you're going to be on the forum don't take posts as people fighting or attacking you. If I was I'd have requested a MOD to remove your links which I had no reason to. So please don't BS me with your " you're the only one" everyone system is different, and 10 is NOT as stable as you say, its brand new its EXPECTED to have bugs so please chill on that. Besides you didn't even make those drivers, so honestly I've no idea why you're even getting defensive. If you still think I'm the only one google RSTE BSOD issues on 10 as well as other BSOD issues. There are thousands, it happens, so unless you specifically programmed those drivers, then honestly I see no reason to get defensive. So please take a nap or w/e you need to calm down. Trial and error, that's all I did, reinstall 50x each time same point, grab from a diff location it's fine, so w/e the matter, w/e issue, it stemmed from that pack I got, unless you work for Intel directly I see 0 reason for you to get upset.

Anyways I'll test your bios out and update again, for now I've managed to get most of my stuff reinstalled.

@Max were the power settings changed vs 0602? Normally I'd have it set to HIGH @ 180% however now it BSOD's w/ 0603+ until I set both to Auto. Going to have to spend another week looking for my settings again. Trying to remember what the best voltage/bios/cpu settings monitor tool is so I can keep tabs on what I"m at so I can drop settings down.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I think I will just leave things the way they are and Win 7 too ....... 12mths of flawless operation


----------



## LunaP

SO adding on to others here, has anyone able to succesfully install either Bolts or Sparky's Custom BIOS. The instructions provided don't work. I've utilized multiple brand name USB sticks, Fat32 on them all, even entertained myself with NTFS and exFat for lulz. File is named as is, no hidden extensions, light only flashes for about 2-3 seconds and nothing. Attempted formatting through multiple machines, personal laptops, computers, work computer, work laptop. I know its in the right slot, I verified via my own manual, and I do see the USB light come on for a brief moment.

It's the only file on the drive. Also attempted via Diskpart and using =fat32


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> SO adding on to others here, has anyone able to succesfully install either Bolts or Sparky's Custom BIOS. The instructions provided don't work. I've utilized multiple brand name USB sticks, Fat32 on them all, even entertained myself with NTFS and exFat for lulz. File is named as is, no hidden extensions, light only flashes for about 2-3 seconds and nothing. Attempted formatting through multiple machines, personal laptops, computers, work computer, work laptop. I know its in the right slot, I verified via my own manual, and I do see the USB light come on for a brief moment.
> 
> It's the only file on the drive. Also attempted via Diskpart and using =fat32


No, sorry, I've had my hands full testing Windows 10.... I'm not trying to mix testing a new OS with testing a modified bios. lol One thing at a time.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> No, sorry, I've had my hands full testing Windows 10.... I'm not trying to mix testing a new OS with testing a modified bios. lol One thing at a time.


I agree!
On that note what advantages does this modified bios offer over the standard 0801 bios?


----------



## LunaP

Hmm I'm certain that changes on 0603+ affected Load line calibration, since on 0603 and up my settings send my PC into an endless reboot cycle, however on 0602

I set high 180% for LLC
Inrush disabled
vCore 1.275
VCCSA 1.15
VTT 1.05

Block 100
Sync all cores and set 45 for multiplier, and get right into windows 10 just fine no BSOD's or anything, going to run prime again later.

However on 0603+ if I set the same I get a BSOD as it goes into windows, but setting LLC to Auto and power % to auto it goes in fine.
And Pre 0602 you had to set a lower option such as 140-160%, Raja had put that out in changes they had made each time as he used to frequent here. (good times)

Can any of you that have 4.5+ share your settings? I know prior to 0602 it was different as well, so 0602 was the one I had the best luck with.

Appreciate any help.


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> SO adding on to others here, has anyone able to succesfully install either Bolts or Sparky's Custom BIOS. The instructions provided don't work. I've utilized multiple brand name USB sticks, Fat32 on them all, even entertained myself with NTFS and exFat for lulz. File is named as is, no hidden extensions, light only flashes for about 2-3 seconds and nothing. Attempted formatting through multiple machines, personal laptops, computers, work computer, work laptop. I know its in the right slot, I verified via my own manual, and I do see the USB light come on for a brief moment.
> 
> It's the only file on the drive. Also attempted via Diskpart and using =fat32


I was using Bolts for awhile until I found Sparky's. I prefer his internal Raid options under tools. I had a similar issue, I had to use flashback using the official beta bios 0801 from Asus's site. I had to download it using a different computer. Not sure why but it had to be from a different computer.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> I was using Bolts for awhile until I found Sparky's. I prefer his internal Raid options under tools. I had a similar issue, I had to use flashback using the official beta bios 0801 from Asus's site. I had to download it using a different computer. Not sure why but it had to be from a different computer.


Yeah did that all over work yesterday, and today just 4 diff comps, not sure why it won't take.

Running @ 4.5 stable all day now in game while streaming @ 4k and tabs open, so next up is getting my memory timings back. Still would love to know what changed w/ LLC for 0603+

updated all my drivers so far cept for RSTE, can't remember if its safe or not once you have it, but since I"m working good now I"ll hold off.

Can you install the suite then uninstall and keep the driver?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Did some benching today and thought might aswell run aida while the cpu and ram are clocked high:



Once winter gets here, I'll be able to bench this baby @5GHz.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Did some benching today and thought might aswell run aida while the cpu and ram are clocked high:
> 
> 
> 
> Once winter gets here, I'll be able to bench this baby @5GHz.


I used to have a filtered duct I made that pulled the cool winter air in from outside with a couple of fans, and brought it directly across my CPU. With a Hyper 212+ I was able to get as low as 13℃ on my 2500K under full load, while overclocked to 4.7GHz! Unfortunately, with my new house the windows are crank style Windows, so I can't open them partway and seal it off like you can with normal sliding windows.

A funny thing, I see so many people that want to use a mini fridge to cool their computers, which simply doesn't work, but I never see anybody ducting the output from an A/C unit into their computer...


----------



## claclaclacla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> hi...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I overclocked my rivbe 4500mhz for use in the game and every day,
> placing the screen of my bios with my settings, what is missing is because I left at default values except latency ram that I manually set the correct values: 9-11-10-30
> Voltage: 1.5V.
> 
> my hardware is:
> mobo: rampage iv black edition
> cpu: i7 3960X
> RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M4A2133C9
> Density: 16GB kit (4 x 4GB)
> Speed: 2.133MHz
> Latency tested: 9-11-10-30
> Voltage: 1.5V
> PSU: Corsair ax 1200i
> vga: evga gtx 980 classified
> 
> VGA and CPU are liquid cooled
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these are the temperatures that I made with the oc, not just low but mè is very hot so I hope to be normal ...
> I have not done any stability test. I would like your advice first to see if you can improve ...


hi, I'm trying to overclock my 3960X to 4500mhz, under spoiler my pc and screen with bios settings ...
motherbord + cpu + ram are new.
the settings are the same that I used with the previous processor, always a 3960X + Rampage 4 Extreme and ram Corsair Dominator CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 1,5v 9-11-10-27 latency.
and the system was stable
now with the new system I tried to do testing with OCCT and Prime95 but when you start the test I almost immediately bsod.
instead in the games I have no problems ....
I tried it with os clean and old but is always the same ...
I know cpu equal need different values to be overclocked, but I ask for help if looking at my bios settings, you can give me pointers on what to fix ...


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Did some benching today and thought might aswell run aida while the cpu and ram are clocked high:
> 
> 
> 
> Once winter gets here, I'll be able to bench this baby @5GHz.


That's on par, if not better with Haswell-E, damn great!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Did some benching today and thought might aswell run aida while the cpu and ram are clocked high:
> 
> 
> 
> Once winter gets here, I'll be able to bench this baby @5GHz.


Nice, and haven't seen you posting in a while either. Just got mine back to stable on 0602, after a full day of testing w/ prime.

Not as fast as yours since I"m @ 2133 AND 64gb but I"m happy its stable @ these settings lol, I had the timings lower but laxed them slightly to avoid any issues I MIGHT inccur during gaming. 8 hours straight on prime though. Envious of your latency though, I bet that's a beast @ Streaming.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I used to have a filtered duct I made that pulled the cool winter air in from outside with a couple of fans, and brought it directly across my CPU. With a Hyper 212+ I was able to get as low as 13℃ on my 2500K under full load, while overclocked to 4.7GHz! Unfortunately, with my new house the windows are crank style Windows, so I can't open them partway and seal it off like you can with normal sliding windows.
> 
> A funny thing, I see so many people that want to use a mini fridge to cool their computers, which simply doesn't work, but I never see anybody ducting the output from an A/C unit into their computer...


Since I kind of blocked my only windows in my anime room ( pc room as well ) I was thinking of getting a small indoor portable A/C, since my room is small and all it can heat up over time, it doesn't get to bad but I'd love to keep it cool. I own a big house so I can't crank the A/C down like I'd hope w/o worrying about a 1k+ Electric bill alone. Anyone have any suggestions as far as what would help?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> hi, I'm trying to overclock my 3960X to 4500mhz, under spoiler my pc and screen with bios settings ...
> motherbord + cpu + ram are new.
> the settings are the same that I used with the previous processor, always a 3960X + Rampage 4 Extreme and ram Corsair Dominator CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 1,5v 9-11-10-27 latency.
> and the system was stable
> now with the new system I tried to do testing with OCCT and Prime95 but when you start the test I almost immediately bsod.
> instead in the games I have no problems ....
> I tried it with os clean and old but is always the same ...
> I know cpu equal need different values to be overclocked, but I ask for help if looking at my bios settings, you can give me pointers on what to fix ...


Which Bios are you running? Depending on settings have changed based on how you overclock.

Also I'd suggest setting your RAM to 1.65 since you're going that high, and then work your way down on that.

Can you post your vCore/VTT/VCCSA from bios, as Software utilities don't always report 100% accuracy on them.

For your RAM you should easily be able to hit 9-11-11-25 if not lower. Raj actually had a good article with your RAM on the ROG forums where they really pushed it under.

Also if you can load bluescreen viewer and tell us the STOP code error you're getting that usually can tell you what you need to adjust.


----------



## claclaclacla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Which Bios are you running? Depending on settings have changed based on how you overclock.
> 
> Also I'd suggest setting your RAM to 1.65 since you're going that high, and then work your way down on that.
> 
> Can you post your vCore/VTT/VCCSA from bios, as Software utilities don't always report 100% accuracy on them.
> 
> For your RAM you should easily be able to hit 9-11-11-25 if not lower. Raj actually had a good article with your RAM on the ROG forums where they really pushed it under.
> 
> Also if you can load bluescreen viewer and tell us the STOP code error you're getting that usually can tell you what you need to adjust.


right now this is the bios I am using: RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION Beta BIOS 0801
Enables 128GB(8*16GB) support by IM ( Intelligent Memory ) memory modules

were these settings on the bios that you asked me?


I have no bluescreen, when I start OCCT or prime95, the PC turns off almost immediately and then restarts without giving me errors ....


----------



## seross69

What is your multiple set to??


----------



## claclaclacla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> What is your multiple set to??


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Since I kind of blocked my only windows in my anime room ( pc room as well ) I was thinking of getting a small indoor portable A/C, since my room is small and all it can heat up over time, it doesn't get to bad but I'd love to keep it cool. I own a big house so I can't crank the A/C down like I'd hope w/o worrying about a 1k+ Electric bill alone. Anyone have any suggestions as far as what would help?


I am using a window A/C unit that runs 24/7 in my computer room, and with the house thermostat set to 72℉, the electric bill hits about $80/month during the summer, that is with my server running 24/7 at 150w as well, and two full size fridges and several mini-fridges.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*


No idea then sounded like high overclock but not really for your voltage


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I used to have a filtered duct I made that pulled the cool winter air in from outside with a couple of fans, and brought it directly across my CPU. With a Hyper 212+ I was able to get as low as 13℃ on my 2500K under full load, while overclocked to 4.7GHz! Unfortunately, with my new house the windows are crank style Windows, so I can't open them partway and seal it off like you can with normal sliding windows.
> 
> A funny thing, I see so many people that want to use a mini fridge to cool their computers, which simply doesn't work, *but I never see anybody ducting the output from an A/C unit into their computer...*


Wrong !! Been doing that for 'ears and 'ears


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> Wrong !! Been doing that for 'ears and 'ears


Oh my... That is one serious mess you have going there... My thought was a much simpler solution to cool a computer using a window A/C unit... That it obviously not ideal for the *average* tinkerer/overclocker... lol


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> Wrong !! Been doing that for 'ears and 'ears


On second look, that isn't ducted to cool a computer though... You just have a piece of cardboard directing the airflow, so it is basically working as it normally would cooling the room. What I mean is to seal the cold air exhaust and use some ducting to move it directly into a case, so that the case is only pulling in the cold air from the A/C unit...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Did some benching today and thought might aswell run aida while the cpu and ram are clocked high:
> 
> 
> 
> Once winter gets here, I'll be able to bench this baby @5GHz.


one hellofa E5 you got there. Where did you find that? Not readily available...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am using a window A/C unit that runs 24/7 in my computer room, and with the house thermostat set to 72℉, the electric bill hits about $80/month during the summer, that is with my server running 24/7 at 150w as well, and two full size fridges and several mini-fridges.


@Hotrod717 had an AC set up that way.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> one hellofa E5 you got there. Where did you find that? Not readily available...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Hotrod717 had an AC set up that way.


Hey man how is ya ?

Hey Reever , done that to other systems when i was into running 'puters in cases LoooooL









E5's are big dollars here try over $2500AU


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Hey man how is ya ?
> 
> Hey Reever , done that to other systems when i was into running 'puters in cases LoooooL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E5's are big dollars here try over $2500AU


kickin back bro. all's good.








great way to sup-up a R4BE for sure! EExpensive here too. THat's just amazing ram, throughput for ddr3.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> right now this is the bios I am using: RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION Beta BIOS 0801
> Enables 128GB(8*16GB) support by IM ( Intelligent Memory ) memory modules
> 
> were these settings on the bios that you asked me?
> 
> 
> I have no bluescreen, when I start OCCT or prime95, the PC turns off almost immediately and then restarts without giving me errors ....


Looks like you are tripping OCP either in the MB or the PSU. what version of windows? 10?

also - fill out rigbuilder and add it to your sig block (how0to link in mine).


----------



## claclaclacla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Looks like you are tripping OCP either in the MB or the PSU. what version of windows? 10?


I tried to do a stress test with OCCT and prime95 using windows 10 and windows 7 but the result is the same ..
my psu is a Corsair ax1200i, I measured with a tester tensions and is perfect while the motherboard and the Rams are new as well as the CPU
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> also - fill out rigbuilder and add it to your sig block (how0to link in mine).


sorry but I did not understand what I have to do because of my bad english, you can explain better? thank you...


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> hi, I'm trying to overclock my 3960X to 4500mhz, under spoiler my pc and screen with bios settings ...
> motherbord + cpu + ram are new.
> the settings are the same that I used with the previous processor, always a 3960X + Rampage 4 Extreme and ram Corsair Dominator CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 1,5v 9-11-10-27 latency.
> and the system was stable
> now with the new system I tried to do testing with OCCT and Prime95 but when you start the test I almost immediately bsod.
> instead in the games I have no problems ....
> I tried it with os clean and old but is always the same ...
> I know cpu equal need different values to be overclocked, but I ask for help if looking at my bios settings, you can give me pointers on what to fix ...


Your PLL is low but I guess it was stable on R4E?

You could try setting CPU Current Capability to 180 % and LLC to High. Does that fix the shutdown issue?

Also if you have 39XX series processor, you'll need to set a few things manually so you don't get throttling on this motherboard: http://www.overclock.net/t/1472823/i-fell-victim-to-the-rampage-iv-extreme-black-edition#post_21920613


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> I tried to do a stress test with OCCT and prime95 using windows 10 and windows 7 but the result is the same ..
> my psu is a Corsair ax1200i, I measured with a tester tensions and is perfect while the motherboard and the Rams are new as well as the CPU
> sorry but I did not understand what I have to do because of my bad english, you can explain better? thank you...


Rigbuilder is at the top right of every page. After completing the list of components, click the * How to add your rig to your sig* link in my post. By doing so, folks trying to help know what gear you are using.


----------



## claclaclacla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Your PLL is low but I guess it was stable on R4E?
> 
> You could try setting CPU Current Capability to 180 % and LLC to High. Does that fix the shutdown issue?
> 
> Also if you have 39XX series processor, you'll need to set a few things manually so you don't get throttling on this motherboard: http://www.overclock.net/t/1472823/i-fell-victim-to-the-rampage-iv-extreme-black-edition#post_21920613


the PLL so set on R4E was stable for RivBe should I raise?

:thumb:now I'm going to correct the bios with the values that you have given me, even those indicated on the link,
then I try to do a test with OCCT and place to you the result ...


----------



## claclaclacla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Rigbuilder is at the top right of every page. After completing the list of components, click the * How to add your rig to your sig* link in my post. By doing so, folks trying to help know what gear you are using.


Ok I did...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Your PLL is low but I guess it was stable on R4E?
> 
> You could try setting CPU Current Capability to 180 % and LLC to High. Does that fix the shutdown issue?
> 
> Also if you have 39XX series processor, you'll need to set a few things manually so you don't get throttling on this motherboard: http://www.overclock.net/t/1472823/i-fell-victim-to-the-rampage-iv-extreme-black-edition#post_21920613


I put the new settings into the BIOS and I tried to do a test with OCCT but as soon as you start the stress test, the computer shuts down and restarts ....


----------



## Raghar

BTW when you are in Grub, what's a number it shows on that display on MB?


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> Ok I did...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the new settings into the BIOS and I tried to do a test with OCCT but as soon as you start the stress test, the computer shuts down and restarts ....


Then it's the best to start from scratch with OC. I think Asus guys said back in the day that you can't directly compare voltages with what we used on R4E.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> Ok I did...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the new settings into the BIOS and I tried to do a test with OCCT but as soon as you start the stress test, the computer shuts down and restarts ....


Under your LLC settings set INRUSH to disabled. Also as mentioned earlier check your BSOD dumps for the STOP error, that will indicate what the issue is, more than likely its voltage.

Set your RAM to 1.65 and test, if you BSOD again after the above. Set RAM to stock and verify your CPU is good, then work back on your RAM, can you also post your secondary timings? I had the same issue as well.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Then it's the best to start from scratch with OC. I think Asus guys said back in the day that you can't directly compare voltages with what we used on R4E.


Agreed. I went from a R4E to R4BE, and my stable voltages definitely changed. FWIW, mine is very sensitive to VCCSA, it needs slightly more than 1.200 to remain stable with LLC (1.212 I think?). If you monitor VCCSA, you'll see it fluctuates up and down with load.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claclaclacla*
> 
> *Ok I did*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the new settings into the BIOS and I tried to do a test with OCCT but as soon as you start the stress test, the computer shuts down and restarts ....


great! just need to add it to your signature block...


----------



## claclaclacla

Yesterday I tried to put the bios in stock, I did a quick test with OCCT and the PC had no problems, obviously the settings that I put on to overclock the cpu do not go so well, I would say that I must start from scratch .. .
since I am not a magician overclocking I need your help to try to get to 4500mhz.
can you tell me what to change in bios to start doing the tests?
or someone has my configuration and can send me his bios overclocked to 4500mhz? it would be even better so I would have less settings to correct

I have one more question, it is normal that at the point that the metal plate marked with an arrow is hot not to resist with your finger on?


----------



## Madmaxneo

This is a really interesting article. Of note is the statement in the article "Of course, it's unlikely you'll ever need 16TB of space or be willing to pay for it.". I remember hearing that years when the 200gb drives first came out.. that phrase tends to come up every so often. But the best part of the article is the last part when they talk about Cross Fire! http://16TB SSDs and Cross Fire!]http://www.wired.com/2015/08/flash-storage/?utm_source=howtogeek&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=newsletter[/URL]

If this tech actually come to fruition then the implications are incredible!

Imagine not having to purchase any more RAM because it is all handled directly from the SSD! I see being able to allocate a set amount of that SSD for system initialization. Though if this works as good as they think it will it may actually eradicate RAM all together. That would reduce the cost on some builds drastically!


----------



## KingT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Did some benching today and thought might aswell run aida while the cpu and ram are clocked high:
> 
> 
> 
> Once winter gets here, I'll be able to bench this baby @5GHz.


Could you please share your BIOS settings for 2666MHz RAM, I have R-IV-F , 4930K and 4x 4GB G-Skill RipjawZ 2133Mhz CL9 (which OC's very well BTW) and when I go above 2400Mhz (I tried 2.4, 2.66GHz)on RAM my system has lower memory bandwidth than 2333Mhz CL10-12-12-31.

I get this "read bug" performance issue.

*My 2333Mhz VTT and VCSSA are 1.165 and for 2666Mhz are 1.175V, both overclocks are stable.*

So every setting is the same only RAM speed is @ 2666Mhz and timings 11-13-13-35 and results are :

2333Mhz, CL10-12-12-31, 125MHz BCLK:

Read: 64GB/s
Write: 66GB/s
Copy: 63GB/s
Latency: 53 ns

2666MHz, CL11-13-13-35, 125MHz BCLK:

Read: 60GB/s
Write: 48GB/s
Copy: 61GB/s
Latency: 55 ns

CHEERS..


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> Could you please share your BIOS settings for 2666MHz RAM, I have R-IV-F , 4930K and 4x 4GB G-Skill RipjawZ 2133Mhz CL9 (which OC's very well BTW) and when I go above 2400Mhz (I tried 2.4, 2.66GHz)on RAM my system has lower memory bandwidth than 2333Mhz CL10-12-12-31.
> 
> I get this "read bug" performance issue.
> 
> *My 2333Mhz VTT and VCSSA are 1.165 and for 2666Mhz are 1.175V, both overclocks are stable.*
> 
> So every setting is the same only RAM speed is @ 2666Mhz and timings 11-13-13-35 and results are :
> 
> 2333Mhz, CL10-12-12-31, 125MHz BCLK:
> 
> Read: 64GB/s
> Write: 66GB/s
> Copy: 63GB/s
> Latency: 53 ns
> 
> 2666MHz, CL11-13-13-35, 125MHz BCLK:
> 
> Read: 60GB/s
> Write: 48GB/s
> Copy: 61GB/s
> Latency: 55 ns
> 
> CHEERS..


Had the same issue, make sure VCCSA is set to 130%, since you only have 4 chips you shouldn't need the additional voltage, however Test w/ VCCSA 1.2 first then RAM voltage @ 1.7 temporarily then go down from there, VCCSA helps w/ latency. I'm more willing to bet its RAM voltage however test between the 2.

Also what is your current CPU OC, as that has to do w/ settings to help the IMC w/ RAM.


----------



## KingT

Didn't help, tried VTT/ VCSSA @ 1.2V, tried 130% on VCSSA and DRAM , 1.7V on memory etc and didnt help.

CHEERS...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> Didn't help, tried VTT/ VCSSA @ 1.2V, tried 130% on VCSSA and DRAM , 1.7V on memory etc and didnt help.
> 
> CHEERS...


Try VTT/ VCSSA @ 1.25v for 2666mhz ......


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Try VTT/ VCSSA @ 1.25v for 2666mhz ......


^^^^^This.

I'm telling you, for VCSSA 1.20v flat isn't always enough. At just 2133, mine requires 1.212v... it will literally crash if I try to limit it at 1.20; rock solid stable at 1.212. Memory controller on IB-e is very sensitive.


----------



## KingT

I tried 1.25V for VTT and VCSSA, DRAM voltage 1.7V etc. and still didn't help.

RAM is stable @ 2666MHz 11-13-13-35, 2T , 1.65V , VTT/VCSSA 1.175V.

But regardless of what I do IT STILL HAS LOW PERFORMANCE compared to 2333MHz 10-12-12-31 and suffers of "Write performance bug".

I tried everything I could think off for 2666MHz:

1.25V VTT/ VCSSA
1.7V DRAM voltage

130% for VCSSA and DRAM digi
Extreme for DRAM LLC

CHEERS..


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingT*
> 
> I tried 1.25V for VTT and VCSSA, DRAM voltage 1.7V etc. and still didn't help.
> 
> RAM is stable @ 2666MHz 11-13-13-35, 2T , 1.65V , VTT/VCSSA 1.175V.
> 
> But regardless of what I do IT STILL HAS LOW PERFORMANCE compared to 2333MHz 10-12-12-31 and suffers of "Write performance bug".
> 
> I tried everything I could think off for 2666MHz:
> 
> 1.25V VTT/ VCSSA
> 1.7V DRAM voltage
> 
> 130% for VCSSA and DRAM digi
> Extreme for DRAM LLC
> 
> CHEERS..


Which bios are you on, I'd set it to high vs Extreme, also do you have INRUSH disabled? It's directly below LLC, also set both VCSSA in the same area to optimized and 130%

Can you post your full bios settings, take screenshots then post them in line here for each section.

Also again please post your 2ndary timings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> ^^^^^This.
> 
> I'm telling you, for VCSSA 1.20v flat isn't always enough. At just 2133, mine requires 1.212v... it will literally crash if I try to limit it at 1.20; rock solid stable at 1.212. Memory controller on IB-e is very sensitive.


Pretty much all rigs will be diff, however in these cases vcore/VTT/VCSSA are primary areas,

I'm lucky enough to have 1.1 for my VCSSA for 2133 @ 64gbs, however I cannot push my CPU to 4.6 since it requires a full volt which isn't worth it IMO.

Oddly it doesn't work on 0603-0801 but on 0602 (which is Raj's personal sauce ) everything is flawless.


----------



## KingT

I have Rampage IV Formula, not Extreme or BE.

I don't have INRUSH setting in BIOS and I'm on latest 5001 ver. for this board.

CHEERS..


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Which bios are you on, I'd set it to high vs Extreme, also do you have INRUSH disabled? It's directly below LLC, also set both VCSSA in the same area to optimized and 130%
> 
> Can you post your full bios settings, take screenshots then post them in line here for each section.
> 
> Also again please post your 2ndary timings.
> Pretty much all rigs will be diff, however in these cases vcore/VTT/VCSSA are primary areas,
> 
> I'm lucky enough to have 1.1 for my VCSSA for 2133 @ 64gbs, however I cannot push my CPU to 4.6 since it requires a full volt which isn't worth it IMO.
> 
> Oddly it doesn't work on 0603-0801 but on 0602 (which is Raj's personal sauce ) everything is flawless.


Oh yeah, absolutely each rig is different, I only mean to emphasize MY experience in hopes that it might also help this other guy/gal. I spent what seemed like FOREVER trying to get my system stable, could not figure it out for the life of me. Then I bumped up vcssa .01v and BAM - absolutely stable. I was even able to bump DOWN my vcore, because I had bumped it up higher than I needed thinking vcore was the problem.

The moral of the story is it's NOT always vcore. And IB-e likes vcssa. Try it, you might like it.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

R4 Formula is a really good board BUT its really a Sandybee mobo .

But I did manage to get 2722Mhz using i7 3820 .

Its not really the board to use with Ivybee if after high mem overclocks .

Its really a max 2400 - 2500mhz dram board , depending on sample


----------



## xarot

Sorry I assume this has been asked many times, but I haven't actively read this thread.

Does the Intel 750 SSD work as bootable with this board? Can you install Windows on it properly? I had so much trouble getting Win8 to install on Intel 750 with R5E, so I am guessing the R4BE will not be any easier if at all? Any tips if successful and which BIOS version? No Windows 10 thanks.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Sorry I assume this has been asked many times, but I haven't actively read this thread.
> 
> Does the Intel 750 SSD work as bootable with this board? Can you install Windows on it properly? I had so much trouble getting Win8 to install on Intel 750 with R5E, so I am guessing the R4BE will not be any easier if at all? Any tips if successful and which BIOS version? No Windows 10 thanks.


needs an NVMe driver for x79.. and I know Asus has been Polling for the need.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> needs an NVMe driver for x79.. and I know Asus has been Polling for the need.


I needed to load up the driver with R5E too upon installation...I only have key for Windows 8 and not 8.1, so I couldn't use Win 8.1 media (dunno if there's a trick for that) which would've had the NVME driver already.

Have you tested if it works with R4BE if you load the driver upon installation? Curious to know. I know ASUS did a poll but it seems no decision was made and it's been many months already


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Sorry I assume this has been asked many times, but I haven't actively read this thread.
> 
> Does the Intel 750 SSD work as bootable with this board? Can you install Windows on it properly? I had so much trouble getting Win8 to install on Intel 750 with R5E, so I am guessing the R4BE will not be any easier if at all? Any tips if successful and which BIOS version? No Windows 10 thanks.


The Intel NVMe PCI-E drives does work as a boot drive because they have their own boot rom. You will notice they take a bit longer to boot because of it but it is worth it. If you are installing Windows 7/8/8.1 you will need to place the Intel driver on external media when installing. Windows 10 has a generic NVMe driver. I've been running my Intel 750 400GB for 3 days now and everything seems well.

When installing Windows it's just like any advanced install. You just have to load the driver off of media. Make sure CSM enabled for the very first install.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> The Intel NVMe PCI-E drives does work as a boot drive because they have their own boot rom. You will notice they take a bit longer to boot because of it but it is worth it. If you are installing Windows 7/8/8.1 you will need to place the Intel driver on external media when installing. Windows 10 has a generic NVMe driver. I've been running my Intel 750 400GB for 3 days now and everything seems well.
> 
> When installing Windows it's just like any advanced install. You just have to load the driver off of media. Make sure CSM enabled for the very first install.


Thanks a lot man. Then it's exactly the same as with my R5E. +rep


----------



## Emissary of Pain

So this is going to sound really noobish, but I really hope you guys can help me cause I am pretty sure I have tried everything ...

I have my SP2500s plugged into the onboard audio, and when I connect my headphones to the front panel, a little message comes up saying that the headset has been plugged in but I get no sound from either the headphones or the speakers ...

No matter what setting I change, I get nothing, if I unplug the headset, the speakers play perfectly

The strange thing is that I have my mic plugged into the front panel as well and it works perfectly









What must I change to get the front panel output to override the speakers ?

Regards


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> I needed to load up the driver with R5E too upon installation...I only have key for Windows 8 and not 8.1, so I couldn't use Win 8.1 media (dunno if there's a trick for that) which would've had the NVME driver already.
> 
> Have you tested if it works with R4BE if you load the driver upon installation? Curious to know. I know ASUS did a poll but it seems no decision was made and it's been many months already


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> The Intel NVMe PCI-E drives does work as a boot drive because they have their own boot rom. You will notice they take a bit longer to boot because of it but it is worth it. If you are installing Windows 7/8/8.1 you will need to place the Intel driver on external media when installing. Windows 10 has a generic NVMe driver. I've been running my Intel 750 400GB for 3 days now and everything seems well.
> 
> When installing Windows it's just like any advanced install. You just have to load the driver off of media. Make sure CSM enabled for the very first install.


NIce! I may have to getr another for the R4BE rig!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> On second look, that isn't ducted to cool a computer though... You just have a piece of cardboard directing the airflow, so it is basically working as it normally would cooling the room. What I mean is to seal the cold air exhaust and use some ducting to move it directly into a case, so that the case is only pulling in the cold air from the A/C unit...





Like I said ........

Been doing it outside the square for along time









I have chillers so I don't need to do it to Chillputer , but I have options


----------



## Clos

Afternoon everyone,

So i'm needing some help here. I just purchased a samsung sm951 512gb m.2 pcie x4 ssd. I purchased and am using the Asus Hyper X4 m.2 -> pcie adapter.
I currently have dual EVGA 980ti hybrids (slots 1 / 3) and the ssd/adapter in slot 2 (full 8x slot). Ive loaded defaults. Tried cms auto, enabled and disabled, my bios detects the uefi dvd rom where i am installing a new copy of windows 10.
When i boot into the windows installation, it detects the m.2 ssd, lets me delete, create and format the partitions wifh out a hitch. Windows goes through the nitial install without a hitch but once it reboots to the second half of the installation, it just boots straight to bios. If i remove the dvd drive (usb external) it just says cms settings need to be adjusted.
Bios doesn't see it as a bootable uefi pcue device; yet windows install does.
Anyone have any ideas?
Ive tried have uefi first, only, in sata having achi, raid and disabled. I just cannot get it to boot up.

Sig rig should be current except the dual 980ti's.
(Sorry if there are spelling errors, posting off of my phone.)

***Side note, i even tried windows 8.1 just in case. Exact same problem. Installs, then no boot.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> Afternoon everyone,
> 
> So i'm needing some help here. I just purchased a samsung sm951 512gb m.2 pcie x4 ssd. I purchased and am using the Asus Hyper X4 m.2 -> pcie adapter.
> I currently have dual EVGA 980ti hybrids (slots 1 / 3) and the ssd/adapter in slot 2 (full 8x slot). Ive loaded defaults. Tried cms auto, enabled and disabled, my bios detects the uefi dvd rom where i am installing a new copy of windows 10.
> When i boot into the windows installation, it detects the m.2 ssd, lets me delete, create and format the partitions wifh out a hitch. Windows goes through the nitial install without a hitch but once it reboots to the second half of the installation, it just boots straight to bios. If i remove the dvd drive (usb external) it just says cms settings need to be adjusted.
> Bios doesn't see it as a bootable uefi pcue device; yet windows install does.
> Anyone have any ideas?
> Ive tried have uefi first, only, in sata having achi, raid and disabled. I just cannot get it to boot up.
> 
> Sig rig should be current except the dual 980ti's.
> (Sorry if there are spelling errors, posting off of my phone.)
> 
> ***Side note, i even tried windows 8.1 just in case. Exact same problem. Installs, then no boot.


Disable fast boot for install, under UEFI set go into keys and delete them, then set UEFI to OTHER OS as secure boot blocks things and is pretty wonky. Once you're full in windows 10 (AFTER installation ) then reenable fast boot. Also helps to disconnect any additiona data/OS drives you might have (idky windows 10 is flimsy with them but it refuses to install 90% of the time till you do)


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> Afternoon everyone,
> 
> So i'm needing some help here. I just purchased a samsung sm951 512gb m.2 pcie x4 ssd. I purchased and am using the Asus Hyper X4 m.2 -> pcie adapter.
> I currently have dual EVGA 980ti hybrids (slots 1 / 3) and the ssd/adapter in slot 2 (full 8x slot). Ive loaded defaults. Tried cms auto, enabled and disabled, my bios detects the uefi dvd rom where i am installing a new copy of windows 10.
> When i boot into the windows installation, it detects the m.2 ssd, lets me delete, create and format the partitions wifh out a hitch. Windows goes through the nitial install without a hitch but once it reboots to the second half of the installation, it just boots straight to bios. If i remove the dvd drive (usb external) it just says cms settings need to be adjusted.
> Bios doesn't see it as a bootable uefi pcue device; yet windows install does.
> Anyone have any ideas?
> Ive tried have uefi first, only, in sata having achi, raid and disabled. I just cannot get it to boot up.
> 
> Sig rig should be current except the dual 980ti's.
> (Sorry if there are spelling errors, posting off of my phone.)
> 
> ***Side note, i even tried windows 8.1 just in case. Exact same problem. Installs, then no boot.


Sorry to disappoint you but the SM951 doesn't have it's own boot rom. It will not work as a bootable device on our chipset. If you can't return it use it as a secondary drive. If you can your options are the Intel 750/Intel P series or Plextor m6e or OCZ


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Sorry to disappoint you but the SM951 doesn't have it's own boot rom. It will not work as a bootable device on our chipset. If you can't return it use it as a secondary drive. If you can your options are the Intel 750/Intel P series or Plextor m6e or OCZ


So its just w/ the x79 chipset and below it can't? Or just in general, I use it on my haswell rig and it works fine as a boot drive, so just clarifying.


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So its just w/ the x79 chipset and below it can't? Or just in general, I use it on my haswell rig and it works fine as a boot drive, so just clarifying.


It will work on z97/x99/z170

It won't work on x79/z87/z77 and below


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> It will work on z97/x99/z170
> 
> It won't work on x79/z87/z77 and below


Good to know thanks <3


----------



## Puriel

Try using AHCI instead of raid or IDE Hope this is useful, set it in bios and make sure you have the drive as the first bootable and also just a tip disconnect all other drives

Regards


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> So this is going to sound really noobish, but I really hope you guys can help me cause I am pretty sure I have tried everything ...
> 
> I have my SP2500s plugged into the onboard audio, and when I connect my headphones to the front panel, a little message comes up saying that the headset has been plugged in but I get no sound from either the headphones or the speakers ...
> 
> No matter what setting I change, I get nothing, if I unplug the headset, the speakers play perfectly
> 
> The strange thing is that I have my mic plugged into the front panel as well and it works perfectly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What must I change to get the front panel output to override the speakers ?
> 
> Regards


You have to check the headphones box off and click okay for it to start playing sound. It's an annoying hassle that Asus added so I usually uncheck the box to disable the auto pop-up when it detects when something is plugged into the port.


----------



## Clos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Sorry to disappoint you but the SM951 doesn't have it's own boot rom. It will not work as a bootable device on our chipset. If you can't return it use it as a secondary drive. If you can your options are the Intel 750/Intel P series or Plextor m6e or OCZ


I really with i would have researched that part of he equation better. I figured using the Asus Hyper X4 Pcie adapter would make it work... Oh well. It looks like new egg will take it back, So i'[ll just buy the proper SSD. Any Specific One that you recommend? Would prefer an Intel -> Plextor -> OCZ in that order. I see some with NVME and some without. Would it matter? or stay away from NVME?


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> I really with i would have researched that part of he equation better. I figured using the Asus Hyper X4 Pcie adapter would make it work... Oh well. It looks like new egg will take it back, So i'[ll just buy the proper SSD. Any Specific One that you recommend? Would prefer an Intel -> Plextor -> OCZ in that order. I see some with NVME and some without. Would it matter? or stay away from NVME?


I am using the Intel 750 NVMe drive just fine. It will increase boot up time by 13 seconds because it's boot rom and power loss protection. Intel/OCZ drivers are for professional use/enterprise so they are good for high queue depth or large transfer data. If you are only playing games and transferring a few files along with bench-marking keep your current SSD or get the Samsung 850 Pro.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> You have to check the headphones box off and click okay for it to start playing sound. It's an annoying hassle that Asus added so I usually uncheck the box to disable the auto pop-up when it detects when something is plugged into the port.


You are a life saver ... thanks man







... ... Only noticed after testing that when in game, the pop up never minimized my games so I never realized it was there ... haha


----------



## Clos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> I am using the Intel 750 NVMe drive just fine. It will increase boot up time by 13 seconds because it's boot rom and power loss protection. Intel/OCZ drivers are for professional use/enterprise so they are good for high queue depth or large transfer data. If you are only playing games and transferring a few files along with bench-marking keep your current SSD or get the Samsung 850 Pro.


I havent' found the samsung 'PRO' yet.

Would this work?

850 EVO M.2 Series 500GB SATA III M.2 Internal Solid State Drive Single Unit Version MZ-N5E500BW

using the Asus Hyper X4 PCI E Adapter?

I'm between it, (if it'll work) and the Intel 750 NVME that you say works find for you, (suprisingly, it's $10 cheaper through newegg than the SM951!). I don't mind spending on the intel even though it's considered a 'professional/enterprise' drive if it does its job, and does it well. Would it hurt any performance in a gaming environment? I'm kind of a "go big or go home" king of person, hence why i was wanting that SM951, considering its supposed to be one of the fastest M.2's out at the moment.

Thanks for your help WannaBeOCer


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> I havent' found the samsung 'PRO' yet.
> 
> Would this work?
> 
> 850 EVO M.2 Series 500GB SATA III M.2 Internal Solid State Drive Single Unit Version MZ-N5E500BW
> 
> using the Asus Hyper X4 PCI E Adapter?
> 
> I'm between it, (if it'll work) and the Intel 750 NVME that you say works find for you, (suprisingly, it's $10 cheaper through newegg than the SM951!). I don't mind spending on the intel even though it's considered a 'professional/enterprise' drive if it does its job, and does it well. Would it hurt any performance in a gaming environment? I'm kind of a "go big or go home" king of person, hence why i was wanting that SM951, considering its supposed to be one of the fastest M.2's out at the moment.
> 
> Thanks for your help WannaBeOCer


I meant a standard SATA Samsung 850 Pro. I don't think you should waste your money on a new SSD but if you must the Intel 750 will be the fastest drive. As long as you understand it is 400GB and takes Windows longer to boot. If you play games you won't notice a difference when using it compared to your current SSD.


----------



## Clos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> I meant a standard SATA Samsung 850 Pro. I don't think you should waste your money on a new SSD but if you must the Intel 750 will be the fastest drive. As long as you understand it is 400GB and takes Windows longer to boot. If you play games you won't notice a difference when using it compared to your current SSD.


Ahhh, I see what you mean. I already installed the Intel 512 to my father for his rig, So i'm king of in a pinch atm.

I was looking at Plextor's 256 gb... But i'd really rather have a 400gb/512gb. And they want an arm and a leg for that plextor m6e 512g, more than the intel drive!

Would the Samsung EVO PCIe M.2 be compatible with our X79's? Microcenter has the 512gb 180$! Or should i just stick with the intel/plex?


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> Ahhh, I see what you mean. I already installed the Intel 512 to my father for his rig, So i'm king of in a pinch atm.
> 
> I was looking at Plextor's 256 gb... But i'd really rather have a 400gb/512gb. And they want an arm and a leg for that plextor m6e 512g, more than the intel drive!
> 
> Would the Samsung EVO PCIe M.2 be compatible with our X79's? Microcenter has the 512gb 180$! Or should i just stick with the intel/plex?


The Samsung 850 evo m.2 is the same speed as the Sata version. Just get the intel 750 but understand your windows boot time will take a bit longer.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> Ahhh, I see what you mean. I already installed the Intel 512 to my father for his rig, So i'm king of in a pinch atm.
> 
> I was looking at Plextor's 256 gb... But i'd really rather have a 400gb/512gb. And they want an arm and a leg for that plextor m6e 512g, more than the intel drive!
> 
> Would the Samsung EVO PCIe M.2 be compatible with our X79's? *Microcenter has the 512gb 180$!* Or should i just stick with the intel/plex?


Holy crap, is it the 951 or 941?


----------



## Clos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Holy crap, is it the 951 or 941?


Nu-uh. EVO Sata III.


----------



## seross69

On x79 you get better performance frim 2 ssd's in raid 0


----------



## LunaP

I'm waiting for Skylake-E before I make the next jump and toss in M.2's, they fly on my Clevo though, and by then I'll be replacing all my old drives, and swapping my old 850/840 Evo 1T's to pure data/gaming drives. Here's hoping Asus puts out another Black edition for them.


----------



## skupples

i plan to stick with x79 for quite some time. i'm just not impressed by haswell e, which means bw-e will probably also not impress.

skylake & pacal 2.0 sound like a good combo though







i'm avoiding ALL first gen HBM/stacked/on die GPUs. idc who makes it.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> i plan to stick with x79 for quite some time. i'm just not impressed by haswell e, which means bw-e will probably also not impress.
> 
> skylake & pacal 2.0 sound like a good combo though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm avoiding ALL first gen HBM/stacked/on die GPUs. *idc who makes it.*


What if Miley makes it









Also you never pm'd me that Mayhem's stuff Lol, I ended up putting more DW in teh loop for now. Which btw was 99% clean when I dumped it. Found only 1 fitting that had some mild discoloration but oddly it didn't really come off with a wire brush so I just swapped out the fitting for a new one.


----------



## Clos

Yea, i plan to stick with this Mobo for a few years until All the new nodes and processes mature for a bit. I've been itchin' to go X99, but for what? features are nice, but if i can find a nice PCI SSD to fit, it should hold up for years to come. Got dual 980ti's and i only game at 3440x1440 so they should hold out as well for me. I appreciate all of your help everyone. I"ll keep you updated on which way i end up going and which pci-e drives work.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> i plan to stick with x79 for quite some time. i'm just not impressed by haswell e, which means bw-e will probably also not impress.
> 
> skylake & pacal 2.0 sound like a good combo though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm avoiding ALL first gen HBM/stacked/on die GPUs. idc who makes it.


This ^^^^^^^

I am very happy with my BE x79 rig .









Havent touched it in a year , faultless operation ....'cept for stupid windows updates which have now borked my startup . Black screen with mouse pointer after splash for about 2 1/2 mins then goes to windows


----------



## Clos

I guess i'd defintely have to agree with both of ya'll. I definitely love my x79be.
Do i wish i had some of the new features like natural usb3.0 insteaf os the as media co troller, or the m.2 socket on board, or to be able to run my dang sm951 im returning tomorrow? Sure. But at this point, i would trade it for the world. It's handled everything i have tossed at it with out a hitch, and im sure it will for years to come.

When my 980ti's start suffering and i uodate to a hex core and still start bottle necking, then ill upgrade to whatever smokes my system today.

Haha.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> I guess i'd defintely have to agree with both of ya'll. I definitely love my x79be.
> Do i wish i had some of the new features like natural usb3.0 insteaf os the as media co troller, or the m.2 socket on board, or to be able to run my dang sm951 im returning tomorrow? Sure. But at this point, i would trade it for the world. It's handled everything i have tossed at it with out a hitch, and im sure it will for years to come.
> 
> When my 980ti's start suffering and i uodate to a hex core and still start bottle necking, then ill upgrade to whatever smokes my system today.
> 
> Haha.


Well if you can toss in the Intel 750 PCI-E SSD as it was confirmed a few posts back, then there's no need for onboard M.2.


----------



## iSlayer

Since the 750 works with RIVBEs, will it also work with an x79 Deluxe?

I'm still dreaming of when I can pick up a BE. If anyone decides to sell theirs...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What if Miley makes it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also you never pm'd me that Mayhem's stuff Lol, I ended up putting more DW in teh loop for now. Which btw was 99% clean when I dumped it. Found only 1 fitting that had some mild discoloration but oddly it didn't really come off with a wire brush so I just swapped out the fitting for a new one.


my bad

work plus girl = no time atm.

you're probably way more anal than me during setup, which is why I require hardcore coolants to keep things clean

aka i'm lazy


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> my bad
> 
> work plus girl = no time atm.
> 
> you're probably way more anal than me during setup, which is why I require hardcore coolants to keep things clean
> 
> aka i'm lazy


hey bud - an incredible upgrade for the R4BE are these E5-1680v2 8 core cpus. Phenomenal performance on the 2011 socket.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> hey bud - an incredible upgrade for the R4BE are these E5-1680v2 8 core cpus. Phenomenal performance on the 2011 socket.


haha that is so funny... those are only like $1500 at a minimum! LOL

I guess I can dream....


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> haha that is so funny... those are only like $1500 at a minimum! LOL
> 
> I guess I can dream....


if you figure in the cost of buying a top x99 MB, 5960X, DDR4 etc... it can make sense.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> if you figure in the cost of buying a top x99 MB, 5960X, DDR4 etc... it can make sense.


Then it gets bigger than my dreams, right now I would love to have at least one 980 Ti running in my machine. I need the extra video ram for graphics rendering. But alas I am still a few hundred short of purchasing one and not closing the gap at all. Right now I am running off of a 750 Ti 2gb.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> if you figure in the cost of buying a top x99 MB, 5960X, DDR4 etc... it can make sense.


Yeah but the minimal performance gains, not to mention the limits due to having more cores, so more power to the IMC, = less OC on RAM and CPU etc lol. (Unless I'm missing something)

x99 upgrade would still outperform.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah but the minimal performance gains, not to mention the limits due to having more cores, so more power to the IMC, = less OC on RAM and CPU etc lol. (Unless I'm missing something)
> 
> x99 upgrade would still outperform.


Its a $2500 AU processor that one and its about the same moolah as x99 setup


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah but the minimal performance gains, not to mention the limits due to having more cores, so more power to the IMC, = *less OC on RAM and CPU et*c lol. (Unless I'm missing something)
> 
> x99 upgrade would still outperform.


huh? Limits due to more cores? wut? sure going full boat x99 will run a bit better, but not by much. Just check out MrTooshort's recent benchmark subs and ram performance. Just the facts. stubborn thing those facts are.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Its a $2500 AU processor that one and its about the same moolah as x99 setup


Yar so might as well go X99 and take advantage of the new tech.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> huh? Limits due to more cores? wut? sure going full boat x99 will run a bit better, but not by much. Just check out MrTooshort's recent benchmark subs and ram performance. Just the facts*. stubborn thing those facts are*.


Would be nice if we could say the same about lottery as well









If one wants to keep low amounts of RAM 16gb or lower then by all means, however why waste the same amount for new tech on old when you can benefit from the luxury of M.2's in boot etc, and more lol. That's the point I'm trying to make.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yar so might as well go X99 and take advantage of the new tech.
> Would be nice if we could say the same about lottery as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If one wants to keep low amounts of RAM 16gb or lower then by all means, however why waste the same amount for new tech on old when you can benefit from the luxury of M.2's in boot etc, and more lol. That's the point I'm trying to make.


I, frankly wouldn't bother with M.2, PCIE NVMe is really much better. (I have both running right now).


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> ....I've attempted other multiple ISO's and *downloading the drivers directly from the MFC's fixed my issue*.


Would you happen to still have those links (or, alternately, be able to point me to a place where they're posted)? Normally I'd run the risk and use the package Sparky linked, but under the circumstance I'd rather not redo all the group policy and service edits I've already done on the off chance I run into whatever it was that you ran across. I'd be looking for the x64 links/versions.

Thanks in advance, and good to see you in the thread again.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Updated driver pack download

09/04/15
Updated:
Intel_Chipset_10.1.2.10
Intel_LAN_20.3
Intel_ME_11.0.0.1163 (driver will show .1160 in device manager, the driver package is .1163)
Realtek_HDAudio_7599
RIVBE 0801 Modded BIOS (updated with OROM & Intel EFI IRST v14.6.0.2285)
Intel MEI 8.1.65.1586 Firmware (first Intel Mangement Enginge Interface firmware for our motherboard with Windows 10 support)
ASUS OEM INFO (To add ASUS OEM info to your Windows install)


----------



## Brutos

Are Asus still making this board?

I would love to pick one up but they are very hard to find in the UK.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brutos*
> 
> Are Asus still making this board?
> 
> I would love to pick one up but they are very hard to find in the UK.


Certain the answer is .....


----------



## airisom2

Maybe you guys can help me out. I've been running my 4930k stable at 4.4 1.32v +.020 offset, and if I try to go to 4.5 I get a bluescreen on RealBench within 10 seconds of starting. I've put 1.4v on it, and it still pops up a 0x124 error.

Values:
bclk=100
ratio=44
VCCSA=1.1
VTT=1.225
RAM=2400 10-12-12-31-2T 1.65v
vcore=+.020 offset ~1.32v load
LLC=Extreme
C-States=Auto

Changing the Current capability to any value above 100% does nothing for stability, nor does increasing VTT or VCCSA values. Using a higher bclk doesn't make me more stable at higher clocks, nor does changing from offset to manual voltages. I remember putting PLL at 1.9v at one time, but I still got a 0x124 which is the only bluescreen code I get.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Any ideas on what's going on? I hope this isn't a voltage wall...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

You need at least 1.2 vscca for 2400 but I would be putting at least 1.25vc on VSCCA and VTT .

Is your ram native 2400 ?? If so go XMP with the volts I just suggested









Also drop LLC current to high if you wanna

Also just run Cstates at c1e and c3e for 100 strap with side step on


----------



## airisom2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> You need at least 1.2 vscca for 2400 but I would be putting at least 1.25vc on VSCCA and VTT .
> 
> Is your ram native 2400 ?? If so go XMP with the volts I just suggested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also drop LLC current to high if you wanna
> 
> Also just run Cstates at c1e and c3e for 100 strap with side step on


Native 2400. I tried the volts, and I still get a 0x124 within seconds of starting realbench. My RAM is perfectly stable at the voltages I posted, however (1.1v vccsa, 1.225 VTT). I don't think there's much point in dropping the LLC. Also, changing the c-states didn't improve stability for 4.5.

I don't know if you read the post right, but I'm trying to get 4.5 stable. The values I posted above are for my stable 4.4 overclock. I just find it odd that even if I dump 1.4v (.08v higher than what it takes for 4.4 to be stable), I'm still getting 0x124s.

Thanks for quick the response.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

No problem









You should go back a few pages there are other peeps bios setting for 4.5 gigs


----------



## Brutos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Certain the answer is .....


Thought as much damm shame i didn't get one when they were still making them..


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brutos*
> 
> Thought as much damm shame i didn't get one when they were still making them..


There is one here on the marketplace if interested. http://www.overclock.net/t/1570192/x79-rampage-iv-black-edition


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airisom2*
> 
> Native 2400. I tried the volts, and I still get a 0x124 within seconds of starting realbench. My RAM is perfectly stable at the voltages I posted, however (1.1v vccsa, 1.225 VTT). I don't think there's much point in dropping the LLC. Also, changing the c-states didn't improve stability for 4.5.
> 
> I don't know if you read the post right, but I'm trying to get 4.5 stable. The values I posted above are for my stable 4.4 overclock. I just find it odd that even if I dump 1.4v (.08v higher than what it takes for 4.4 to be stable), I'm still getting 0x124s.
> 
> Thanks for quick the response.


0x124 is VTT/vCore

however in your case I'd bump vccsa to 1.15 then push vcore a bit more. While you may appear stable @ ur current speeds certain types of usage will really bring out the worst. For me it was using handbrake.

Try VCCSA to 1.15 first if that still doesn't work, bump vcore by about .3 then work down. If you end up just freezing completely for a good minute before a BSOD then you're VERY close to the needed voltage.


----------



## airisom2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 0x124 is VTT/vCore
> 
> however in your case I'd bump vccsa to 1.15 then push vcore a bit more. While you may appear stable @ ur current speeds certain types of usage will really bring out the worst. For me it was using handbrake.
> 
> Try VCCSA to 1.15 first if that still doesn't work, bump vcore by about .3 then work down. If you end up just freezing completely for a good minute before a BSOD then you're VERY close to the needed voltage.


Thanks for the response









I tried 1.15 and bumped the vcore to manual 1.31 (1.35v load), and it bluescreened. Did 1.25v on VCCSA, and BSOD. With VCCSA at 1.25, I bumped VTT to 1.3v and BSOD. Tried 1.4v VTT and BSOD. Enabled inrush current and bumped the voltage to compensate, BSOD. Put in 500 for long turm core current limit, 600 for short current limit, and 5 for the duration time, and BSOD. Bumped vcore to 1.4, and it lasted a good bit longer before BSOD . I guess it's vcore related.

I'm pretty much convinced now that my chip needs and extraordinary amount of voltage if I wanna get past 4.4.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Try to o/c with 125 strap


----------



## airisom2

Tried 125x36 with 1.3VTT and 1.31 vcore (~1.35v load) and it's still spitting out 0x124s...


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airisom2*
> 
> Tried 125x36 with 1.3VTT and 1.31 vcore (~1.35v load) and it's still spitting out 0x124s...


I had a 4930k that was stable @4.4Ghz 1.35v, but 4.5Ghz was a no go, even 1.45v. These chips hit a wall big time when it come to overclocking.

Although, if it was cold enough, I could bench @4.7Ghz.

4.4Ghz is your wall. Nothing you can do about it unless waterchiller or phase change or some other advanced cooling.


----------



## airisom2

Aww, I see. I guess my suspicions were right, but it's nice to have some reassurance on this. Thanks!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I had a 4930k that was stable @4.4Ghz 1.35v, but 4.5Ghz was a no go, even 1.45v. These chips hit a wall big time when it come to overclocking.
> 
> Although, if it was cold enough, I could bench @4.7Ghz.
> 
> 4.4Ghz is your wall. Nothing you can do about it unless waterchiller or phase change or some other advanced cooling.


Thats pretty much the issue i had with my first 4930k but i gots [email protected] .
Glad this 4960x is HEAPS better ,


----------



## 113802

Just got a new 4930k which is made in Malaysia. It is stable @ 4.6Ghz with 1.36v! My other 4930k was made in Costa Rica and it required 1.42v for 4.4Ghz.


----------



## claclaclacla

I would use this watherblock for my RIVBE, You thing thought of?

in addition to aesthetics, as efficiency it is better this or EK or XPC?

HEATKILLER® MB-X KIT ASUS RAMPAGE IV Black Edition Ni


----------



## maybach123

i own an asus rampage iv black edition and i was wondering how to use ddr3 2800 do i have to overclock the ram or something im not sure help
thanks
maybach123


----------



## Kimir

Set strap 125, set memory freq to 2800, set your voltage and timing, voila.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> i own an asus rampage iv black edition and i was wondering how to use ddr3 2800 do i have to overclock the ram or something im not sure help
> thanks
> maybach123


First off how much do you know about overclocking? One would assume a decent amount based on you owning the RIVBE. but that is not always the case like me...
I now know way more than I did before thanks to the RIVBE and this forum.








Based on your question though I am thinking you might be somewhat new to this. Can you clarify pleasse?

OTH I could be wrong.
Have you tried setting XMP?
If that doesn't work then I would def go by what @Kimir mentioned above...


----------



## 113802

2800mhz is almost impossible on most Ivy Bridge processors. If you are having issues it's due to the memory controller on the CPU. 2666mhz is a challenge on most.


----------



## Kimir

Eh? The first time I've read that. On Sandy-E yeah it can be hard but Ivy-E IMC are much better, 2800C9 is hard (you need good samy) but 2800 itself isn't that difficult as long as you have the ram that can do it.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> i own an asus rampage iv black edition and i was wondering how to use ddr3 2800 do i have to overclock the ram or something im not sure help
> thanks
> maybach123


Yes if 2666 ram trying to go to 2800 but from 2400 native ram would be difficult

Put your rig in rig builder so to see what you have ..........

#Notmindreaders



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> 2800mhz is almost impossible on most Ivy Bridge processors. If you are having issues it's due to the memory controller on the CPU. 2666mhz is a challenge on most.


Really ??

[email protected]@2802
http://valid.x86.fr/qg66g8

and

[email protected]@2666
http://valid.x86.fr/mjnq8x









Im running 2666 CL 11 Dominator Plats


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Really ??
> 
> [email protected]@2802
> http://valid.x86.fr/qg66g8
> and
> 
> [email protected]@2666
> http://valid.x86.fr/mjnq8x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im running 2666 CL 11 Dominator Plats


My mistake I thought he was talking about overclocking lower end ram like 2133mhz ram. The memory controller won't handle it if you try overclocking. Max I can get my 2133mhz Corsair dominator GTs is around 2500mhz. With my last Chip max I could get was 2410mhz

http://valid.x86.fr/76rmmy


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have a few questions for my board.

What is the extra 4 pin EATX 12v pin on the MB used for? I read in the manual it is recommended for using more than one graphics card. But if the graphics cards have power connectors on them would I still need to use that extra 4 pin connector? I do not have two video cards just yet but I just recently upgraded to the EVGA GTX 980 ACX 2.0 SC and was thinking about going SLI with it. Though if I could come up with the money fast enough I would be better off going for the 980Ti Kingin....

Is there a guide somewhere on how to configure the wifi capability on this MB? I have it set so my wireless devices can connect to the internet through the wifi on the MB but for some reason it is not a very good connection. Though the signal is weaker I get a better connection from the actual comcast router across the house. FYI, I have a cat5e cable I ran under the house for my PC. Most of the time I am unable to connect to any web pages when using the RIVBE wifi.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Mega Man

Not getting into the WiFi stuff as I am not home.

But the gpu pulls up to 75w 12v through the mobo/pcie. Over 2 gpu's is recommended to attach (usually)


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> My mistake I thought he was talking about overclocking lower end ram like 2133mhz ram. The memory controller won't handle it if you try overclocking. Max I can get my 2133mhz Corsair dominator GTs is around 2500mhz. With my last Chip max I could get was 2410mhz
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/76rmmy


Good blck a happen there try CL9 on the ram timings


----------



## skynet2k8




----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skynet2k8*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What is the panel on the last page?

Forgive me if it has been mentioned but I have not been following this thread that well lately


----------



## skynet2k8

Sorry about that my fault it's supposed to be on the Cooler Master site!!!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skynet2k8*
> 
> Sorry about that my fault it's supposed to be on the Cooler Master site!!!!!


No problem, I was wondering if that was a custom panel or an actual part of the case design. I haven't seen to many designs with a vent on that side of the case and much less a raised one for a fan..


----------



## skynet2k8




----------



## 00Smurf

Howdy all, been out of the overclocking game for a while. Last major overclocking was my i7920/i7980x on the rampage 3 extreme.

I feel like I need a primer on the new tech, and bios settings.

I built the current pc last year and have pretty much just ran it stock with everything set to default. Ideally i'd like to tweak it and have a nice 4.3-4.4 ghz o/c running nice and steady. Sort of a set it and forget it like i had on my old system (i7920 SLACR ran 4.4ghz for 4 years solid).

If someone could give me a good baseline/profile to start from i can work from there, or direct me to a more detailed explanation of what the different settings do.

Also is anyone using the AI suite or should i just uninstall it and forget about it. It seems asus likes to drop support for the old programs once they release a new board.

Lastly anyone have a list of the latest drivers for windows 10 for the board. It seems once again asus only lists the driver updates until they have a new board out. nvm found them in prior post.

System setup is as follows:

Windows 10 64bit
Asus Rive BE (602 bios)
i7 4930k SR1AT Batch# 3409b307
16gb (4 x 4 gb) Corsair Dominator Platnium (CMD8GX3M2A1866C9)
Cooler Master Nepton 280L AIO with 2 x corsair sp140 LED fans in PUSH (wanted push/pull but space limitations)
Corsair carbide 240 air case
2 x Sapphire 295x2's
EVGA 1600G2 1600 watt PSU
Samsung 840 Pro SSD 256gb (OS drive)
Samsung 840 EVO 512gb (Games Drive)
WD 1 TB black storage drive
Logitech g19 Kybd
Steelseries Sensei Mouse
3 x 32" Benq bl3200pt monitors.

20150928_094415.jpg 4469k .jpg file


20150928_094427.jpg 4863k .jpg file


Thanks in advance.

**edit**

Does anyone notice occasional usb problems with this board? sometimes on a restart or a various times my mouse/kybd/joystick will nee dto be unplugged and plugged back in in order to get them to work. they still show power and lights but wont work until unplugged and replugged.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *00Smurf*
> 
> Howdy all, been out of the overclocking game for a while. Last major overclocking was my i7920/i7980x on the rampage 3 extreme.
> 
> Does anyone notice occasional usb problems with this board? sometimes on a restart or a various times my mouse/kybd/joystick will nee dto be unplugged and plugged back in in order to get them to work. they still show power and lights but wont work until unplugged and replugged.


I could help a little with the bios settings somewhat but there are better qualified people on this list for that than I. If no one posts anything by tonight I will post the basics.

As far as USB not working correctly. I have been having pretty much the same problem though I quickly realized it was only with the USB 3.0 ports and my two logitech devices (a G13 and an F710 wireless controller).
My keyboard and mouse are plugged into the ports actually designed for them, no troubles there so far.

With my Logitech devices, one uses a software program but the other does not (confirms it not being software related). The devices work fine in the 3.0 ports until I have to restart the PC then they don't work at all until I recycle the USB plugs. Nothing else works in getting the devices to work properly. BTW I only encountered this problem after upgrading to windows 10 and I believe it has something to do with the USB 3.0 drivers for windows 10 for this specific board. There are new chipset drivers available but they aren't official, there is a link on this forum somewhere a few pages back.
I only have one other device plugged into a 3.0 port and that is my external drive, but that works fine after startup.....
Also if I plug the Logitech devices into USB 2.0 ports they work fine, even on startup. Unfortunately I don't have enough 2.0 ports to accommodate all my USB devices open on the back panel so I am forced to use one of the 3.0 ports for the F710 wireless controller. I have the USB receiver for the F710 plugged into the extension that sits on my desktop making it easy to access to recycle the plug.

EDIT: I rewrote some of it because it was written in haste and was somewhat confusing...apologies.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *00Smurf*
> 
> Howdy all, been out of the overclocking game for a while. Last major overclocking was my i7920/i7980x on the rampage 3 extreme.
> 
> I feel like I need a primer on the new tech, and bios settings.
> 
> I built the current pc last year and have pretty much just ran it stock with everything set to default. Ideally i'd like to tweak it and have a nice 4.3-4.4 ghz o/c running nice and steady. Sort of a set it and forget it like i had on my old system (i7920 SLACR ran 4.4ghz for 4 years solid).
> 
> If someone could give me a good baseline/profile to start from i can work from there, or direct me to a more detailed explanation of what the different settings do.
> 
> Also is anyone using the AI suite or should i just uninstall it and forget about it. It seems asus likes to drop support for the old programs once they release a new board.
> 
> Lastly anyone have a list of the latest drivers for windows 10 for the board. It seems once again asus only lists the driver updates until they have a new board out. nvm found them in prior post.
> 
> Does anyone notice occasional usb problems with this board? sometimes on a restart or a various times my mouse/kybd/joystick will nee dto be unplugged and plugged back in in order to get them to work. they still show power and lights but wont work until unplugged and replugged.


There's no detailed guide specifically for the RIV Black, but there's a fairly comprehensive guide to the RIVE bios on the ROG forum HERE. A lot of the settings are still opaque (I've yet to find anybody who knows what CPU Clock Skew does), but it will at least get you up to speed on the important bits.

I have usb issues with the usb3 ports, too. The Intel-to-ASMedia ehci handoff never worked quite right since USB3 wasn't "officially" supported by Intel on X79. You might have more luck with the microsoft-provided xhci drivers than the asmedia drivers (though you lose some of the asmedia functionality, I think?). I've always just made do with re-plugging when one of the ports stops working.


----------



## PachAz

I have a really funny issue with my system. Today when I was trying to run prime95 worker 9 and 10 stoped instantly. I thought my cpu might have degraded so I increased the voltage but the problem still remained. So I thought I would give it ago with default settings but to my suprise the workers still stopped instantly. I tried to run the RAM on stock settings with no success, I even tried a different set of RAM from my older build but the issue still remained. I really dont know what the issue is, I even tried to reset the cmos but it didnt give any result. I tried both custom blend, small fft as well as IBT and all these applications made 2 workers stop and/or warned that my system was unstable. And this is with 100% stock settings as well







.

When I built my system last summer I managed 5 hours prime95 on 4.5ghz custom blend with no workers stopped and the computer havent had any bsod or other issues since then. The PC still works good though and I cant really experiance that anything is wrong appart from prime95 and IBT giving me indications that system is not stable. If I didnt attempt to run pime95 today chances are that I would never experiance this little problem. I have tested both version 27.9 and 28.7 of prime95 and both gave the same results. I have used a few multicore appliations, games and benchmark tools since I built the system and no lock ups, crashes or bsod have happened so I wonder if it might be some bug or glitch?

Edit: I even tried one stick of RAM in each slot to see if the slots could be damaged some how but no success so far.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> I have a really funny issue with my system. Today when I was trying to run prime95 worker 9 and 10 stoped instantly. I thought my cpu might have degraded so I increased the voltage but the problem still remained. So I thought I would give it ago with default settings but to my suprise the workers still stopped instantly. I tried to run the RAM on stock settings with no success, I even tried a different set of RAM from my older build but the issue still remained. I really dont know what the issue is, I even tried to reset the cmos but it didnt give any result. I tried both custom blend, small fft as well as IBT and all these applications made 2 workers stop and/or warned that my system was unstable. And this is with 100% stock settings as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> When I built my system last summer I managed 5 hours prime95 on 4.5ghz custom blend with no workers stopped and the computer havent had any bsod or other issues since then. The PC still works good though and I cant really experiance that anything is wrong appart from prime95 and IBT giving me indications that system is not stable. If I didnt attempt to run pime95 today chances are that I would never experiance this little problem. I have tested both version 27.9 and 28.7 of prime95 and both gave the same results. I have used a few multicore appliations, games and benchmark tools since I built the system and no lock ups, crashes or bsod have happened so I wonder if it might be some bug or glitch?
> 
> Edit: I even tried one stick of RAM in each slot to see if the slots could be damaged some how but no success so far.


There is a possibility that your cpu is starting to fail, which is the risk one takes when overclocking. I would say to back down on your OC for now until you can verify what is going on.
If your CPU is starting to degrade because of OCing your kind of in luck because you get it replaced via the Intel tuning plan. It takes a month for the plan to become active once you purchase the warranty but it is pretty inexpensive. I got it and only paid $25 for a 4930k. I need to replace my CPU and will be doing that in the next few days.


----------



## PachAz

Degrading in one year despite having 1.330v, which is below the max recommended for 24/7 which is around 1.36? I mean speaking of degrading, this issues exist even running on default settings and wasnt solved despite increasing the voltage.

Is these any specific way to test if the issue is due to the cpu or motherboard? Since in sweden we have 3 years customer protection by the law which the shop gives.

I even updated to the latest bios on the motherboard and the issue still remains.


----------



## chrisnyc75

A man goes to his doctor and says "Doctor, my computer crashes when I run Prime95."

The doctor replies, "then don't run Prime95."










(*unless, against all odds, you're some kind of mathematician and Prime95 is actually what you built the system to do.... in which case, carry on)


----------



## PachAz

No I didnt built the system for prime95, but obviously something must have happened after 1 year since both IBT and prime95 warn for instability.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> Degrading in one year despite having 1.330v, which is below the max recommended for 24/7 which is around 1.36? I mean speaking of degrading, this issues exist even running on default settings and wasnt solved despite increasing the voltage.
> 
> Is these any specific way to test if the issue is due to the cpu or motherboard? Since in sweden we have 3 years customer protection by the law which the shop gives.
> 
> I even updated to the latest bios on the motherboard and the issue still remains.


Though I am not sure how true this is but I have been told that your cpu can degrade based simply on the level of overclock you do regardless of the voltage used. I do know that using a higher voltage can cause degradation much quicker but is that the only thing that causes the cpu to degrade?

Regardless it is only a theory as to what could be going wrong. I seriously doubt the issue is software related but I could be wrong.

You can test the CPU in another MB if you have one available, you could also test another CPU in the MB if you had one of those available also. Those may be the only real way to tell if either is bad.

Is there any possibility it is the PSU from a heavy power draw or even the RAM?


----------



## RAFFY

Long story short I haven't used my gaming computer in over a year now. Any updates or changes I need to know about our motherboard that has occurred during this time span?


----------



## PachAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Though I am not sure how true this is but I have been told that your cpu can degrade based simply on the level of overclock you do regardless of the voltage used. I do know that using a higher voltage can cause degradation much quicker but is that the only thing that causes the cpu to degrade?
> 
> Regardless it is only a theory as to what could be going wrong. I seriously doubt the issue is software related but I could be wrong.
> 
> You can test the CPU in another MB if you have one available, you could also test another CPU in the MB if you had one of those available also. Those may be the only real way to tell if either is bad.
> 
> Is there any possibility it is the PSU from a heavy power draw or even the RAM?


Its not the RAM since I tested with different RAM as well as different RAM slots. I am unsure about the PSU though. I agree that the only way would be to test another cpu in the motherboard or my cpu in another motherboard but it will be difficult since I dont know anybody with similar system. If it would be the PSU wouldnt I experiance GPU instabilty as well since it draws more power than stock CPU?

Things I have done so far but with 0 result:
- Default stock clocks
- Higher vcore
- Different RAM
- Different RAM slots
- New motherboard BIOS
- Different verisons of prime95


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> A man goes to his doctor and says "Doctor, my computer crashes when I run Prime95."
> 
> The doctor replies, "then don't run Prime95."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (*unless, against all odds, you're some kind of mathematician and Prime95 is actually what you built the system to do.... in which case, carry on)


I'll leave this here


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> Its not the RAM since I tested with different RAM as well as different RAM slots. I am unsure about the PSU though. I agree that the only way would be to test another cpu in the motherboard or my cpu in another motherboard but it will be difficult since I dont know anybody with similar system. If it would be the PSU wouldnt I experiance GPU instabilty as well since it draws more power than stock CPU?
> 
> Things I have done so far but with 0 result:
> - Default stock clocks
> - Higher vcore
> - Different RAM
> - Different RAM slots
> - New motherboard BIOS
> - Different verisons of prime95


Could someone please correct me here but I don't think you don't need the exact same MB to test your CPU. You could easily put it in any other compatible MB and see if it starts doing the same things with everything set to stock. If it does then that points to a bad CPU.

There is one other possibility. Maybe there is something that is making those programs (prime95 and IBT) read incorrectly. Have you recently upgraded the OS to windows 10? I know a few people on here have reported issues with windows 10 and certain OC settings. It could be some other recently updated software also or even a BIOS update. This would make it a software issue then but different than what I mentioned earlier.

I hope something in the conversations on this thread help you to find the problem in one way or another.

Bruce


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Long story short I haven't used my gaming computer in over a year now. Any updates or changes I need to know about our motherboard that has occurred during this time span?


Not really unless you have upgraded to windows 10. There is a driver pack some pages back intended for this board running windows 10.


----------



## PachAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Could someone please correct me here but I don't think you don't need the exact same MB to test your CPU. You could easily put it in any other compatible MB and see if it starts doing the same things with everything set to stock. If it does then that points to a bad CPU.
> 
> There is one other possibility. Maybe there is something that is making those programs (prime95 and IBT) read incorrectly. Have you recently upgraded the OS to windows 10? I know a few people on here have reported issues with windows 10 and certain OC settings. It could be some other recently updated software also or even a BIOS update. This would make it a software issue then but different than what I mentioned earlier.
> 
> I hope something in the conversations on this thread help you to find the problem in one way or another.
> 
> Bruce


Hi,

What I meant was that not too many people have X79 that I know of since I live in a small community. I havent updated to windows 10, I still use windows 7 like I did back in the days. BIOS update I did after I experianced this problem. So far, both prime95, IBT and OCCT give the same error i.e. worker stopped and core error.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> What I meant was that not too many people have X79 that I know of since I live in a small community. I havent updated to windows 10, I still use windows 7 like I did back in the days. BIOS update I did after I experianced this problem. So far, both prime95, IBT and OCCT give the same error i.e. worker stopped and core error.


PachAz,
Unfortunately if all three of those tests are reporting the same exact issue then I am inclined to say the CPU is bad. To me it looks like you have done everything possible to get rid of the errors and yet those errors persist. Hopefully the CPU is still under warranty there in Sweden and you can get it replaced for free. There is also the Intel tuning plan just in case.

I can't think of anything else for you to try, I am assuming you have also cleaned off the CPU and reapplied some thermal paste though if that was the case you would be getting variable temp readings between the multiple cores of more than just a few degrees.

The thing is you are only experiencing the errors when running the stress tests. Have you encountered any issues outside the stress tests?
If not and you really don't want to replace the CPU then you should wait, but be prepared for things to get worse or when it dies cold. I am not saying either is going to happen but you never know.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not really unless you have upgraded to windows 10. There is a driver pack some pages back intended for this board running windows 10.


This driver pack resoved all my windows 10 issues. I'm now running super stable at a 24/7 4.4ghz oc on my i7 4930k.

Shameless plus http://www.overclock.net/t/1575415/asus-rampage-iv-be-black-edition-with-original-box-and-packaging


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not really unless you have upgraded to windows 10. There is a driver pack some pages back intended for this board running windows 10.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *00Smurf*
> 
> This driver pack resoved all my windows 10 issues. I'm now running super stable at a 24/7 4.4ghz oc on my i7 4930k.
> 
> Shameless plus http://www.overclock.net/t/1575415/asus-rampage-iv-be-black-edition-with-original-box-and-packaging


Thanks guys! I'm looking to get my Quad 290x's up and running again on Windows 10 so that is very helpful!


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAFFY*
> 
> Thanks guys! I'm looking to get my Quad 290x's up and running again on Windows 10 so that is very helpful!


I'm running dual 295x2's (which is basically quadfire), so you should be fine with quad 290x's just make sure you have sufficent cooling and space in between them.


----------



## PachAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> PachAz,
> Unfortunately if all three of those tests are reporting the same exact issue then I am inclined to say the CPU is bad. To me it looks like you have done everything possible to get rid of the errors and yet those errors persist. Hopefully the CPU is still under warranty there in Sweden and you can get it replaced for free. There is also the Intel tuning plan just in case.
> 
> I can't think of anything else for you to try, I am assuming you have also cleaned off the CPU and reapplied some thermal paste though if that was the case you would be getting variable temp readings between the multiple cores of more than just a few degrees.
> 
> The thing is you are only experiencing the errors when running the stress tests. Have you encountered any issues outside the stress tests?
> If not and you really don't want to replace the CPU then you should wait, but be prepared for things to get worse or when it dies cold. I am not saying either is going to happen but you never know.


I havent had any issues with crashing or bsod, but I dont use any heavily multithreaded programs either. Its just annoying that worker 9 and 10 (core 5) stops imediatley in prime95 despite stock settings, underclocked cpu, etc. This is really sad since it was prime95 stable for 5 hours with my overclock. I am sure I can return the cpu to the shop, ill write to them and see what they say. In worst case they dont find the issue and ill have to pay the returning postage.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *00Smurf*
> 
> I'm running dual 295x2's (which is basically quadfire), so you should be fine with quad 290x's just make sure you have sufficent cooling and space in between them.


100% fan speed worked fine before lol.


----------



## supermiguel

So i was replacing some ram in my system and noticed that all the mobo blocks are veryyyyyy hot, like hot to touch hot... Are they supposed to be like that???


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> So i was replacing some ram in my system and noticed that all the mobo blocks are veryyyyyy hot, like hot to touch hot... Are they supposed to be like that???


Download and install Realtemp then run it on your PC and give us a screen shot of the temps on your CPU.
Also relate to us your system specs along with what OC you have set. After that we can help you better.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> So i was replacing some ram in my system and noticed that all the mobo blocks are veryyyyyy hot, like hot to touch hot... Are they supposed to be like that???


They do get pretty warm, especially if you have a lot of peripherals running off of the PCI-e bus, SATA, USB3, or anything else that is run off of the chipset. If your CPU is overclocked, and the voltage is high, that will easily increase the temperatures of the VRM's (The parts that are cooled by the top heatsink&heatpipe) as well. If you run something like Speedfan (I am sure there are others - AISuite probably does it as well) you can see the temperatures of pretty near all of the probes in your system, there are often-times between 3-6 temperature probes on a motherboard, some of the well marketed boards (Like the Sabertooth line) have 'Thermal Armor', which is a combination of a hardware 'shield' and a boatload of thermal probes all around the board, something like 10 or 12 if I recall...

Anyhow, use some software that gives you the temperature of the PCH, and any other probes you have access to, report back to us with those temperatures and we can go from there... Additionally, if you have access to either an IR thermal probe or some 10k probes for the motherboard, you can place those in, on or beneath the heatsinks and use AISuite to monitor those temperatures and give us those values. At this point, if your temps are as high as you are claiming, it would certainly be a worthwhile investment to spend the ~$3 per probe to monitor those temperatures...


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Download and install Realtemp then run it on your PC and give us a screen shot of the temps on your CPU.
> Also relate to us your system specs along with what OC you have set. After that we can help you better.


they are running around 40-50C but with 0 OC just multiple hours of running (6h), the problem im having is that the VRM heatsink one between ports and memory is getting reallllly hot... hence that memory stick close to it is getting ultra hot as well, making it fail, this is the 2nd one i replace out of that slot...

How are the ones from your systems? hot to touch?


----------



## Madmaxneo

My RAM isn't that hot though I haven't really monitored it that much as it runs great. I have not noticed any high temps from them. I have my RAM set to XMP and they run at 2133mhz (their rated numbers). My current OC is at 4.3ghz and my temps run in the low to mid 30's. Currently I can't go any higher in my OC due to an inadequate CPU as it shuts down at 4.4 regardless of the voltage setting.

1. What bios revision are you running?
2. How many sticks of RAM are you running and which slots are they in?
The reason I ask is because I had issues with the RAM slots when I first put this system together about 6 months ago and ASUS told me to install the latest bios (0801 I think) and I have not had a problem with the RAM since.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> What I meant was that not too many people have X79 that I know of since I live in a small community. I havent updated to windows 10, I still use windows 7 like I did back in the days. BIOS update I did after I experianced this problem. So far, both prime95, IBT and OCCT give the same error i.e. worker stopped and core error.


First things, as of late Prime95 is just not safe... There have been many cases of it frying well cooled hardware recently. So I would suggest that you stop using that at all to bench.

Regarding your cores, have you tried changing the number of cores in use and seeing how that affects things? I suspect you have a couple of fried cores on your CPU. :-(


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> First things, as of late Prime95 is just not safe... There have been many cases of it frying well cooled hardware recently. So I would suggest that you stop using that at all to bench.


+1

Try Cinebench + Realbench instead. They're solid stability tests that won't kill your cpu with endless AVX. In my experience, if you can pass Cinebench, Realbench, & Heaven, your system is stable.


----------



## PachAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> First things, as of late Prime95 is just not safe... There have been many cases of it frying well cooled hardware recently. So I would suggest that you stop using that at all to bench.
> 
> Regarding your cores, have you tried changing the number of cores in use and seeing how that affects things? I suspect you have a couple of fried cores on your CPU. :-(


I didnt use the latest prime95 when I benched my cpu last year. I think prime95 is an excellent tool to get your cpu stable. If cpus getting fried despite being sufficient cooled that only means that the vcore was set too high and in my case I used less vcore than what is max recommended for 24/7. Anyways the shop will accept my RMA and I will have to see their conclusion.

An intresting thing though is that it is always one or two cores that fail. I tested to enable only 4 cores with HT and worker 5 and 6 stopped. When I tested to enable 4 cores and no HT then worker 3 stopped. When I enable 6 cores and no HT worker 5 stopped and when enabling 6 cores with HT worker 10 and 11 stop. I dont know if nessercarly any cores are faulty but the cpu seem to have some kind of error, or the motherboard. Anyways its annoying.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> I didnt use the latest prime95 when I benched my cpu last year. I think prime95 is an excellent tool to get your cpu stable. If cpus getting fried despite being sufficient cooled that only means that the vcore was set too high and in my case I used less vcore than what is max recommended for 24/7. Anyways the shop will accept my RMA and I will have to see their conclusion.
> 
> An intresting thing though is that it is always one or two cores that fail. I tested to enable only 4 cores with HT and worker 5 and 6 stopped. When I tested to enable 4 cores and no HT then worker 3 stopped. When I enable 6 cores and no HT worker 5 stopped and when enabling 6 cores with HT worker 10 and 11 stop. I dont know if nessercarly any cores are faulty but the cpu seem to have some kind of error, or the motherboard. Anyways its annoying.


Prime95 has been damaging/killing CPU's for some time now, I do not recall the initial revision behind it, but I seem to recall it is the AVX instruction set that it is running that is doing damage. I used Prime95 as my go-to stress test since 1998, and it has been fantastic, that is until recently within the last couple of years that I have been hearing/seeing issues with it damaging processors. Unfortunately, the problems from Prime95 have nothing to do with VCore, or any other voltage, I have seen two processors get torched by it at default settings, during a burn-in test, temperatures never exceeded 65C on the 3770K and (around) 70C on the 4790K.

You said you used Prime95 'Today' in your original post and that is when it gave you issues... I guess my first question is, why even ask for advice if you are going to reject any that comes along? Not trying to be argumentative or negative, so please do not take it that way, I simply say what I am thinking, and unfortunately people tend to take it in a negative fashion, so please try not to see it that way.

Anyhow, I bid you good luck with your replacement, and I would encourage you not to use Prime95 in the future, as there ARE problems with the last few revisions, and given that there are literally _dozens_ of perfectly reliable, functional and useful alternatives, why would you risk it?


----------



## PachAz

Hi, I understand. I will have to read up once I get a new cpu. I want to get a refund though and not a new 4930k. But we will see what the shop says.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> Hi, I understand. I will have to read up once I get a new cpu. I want to get a refund though and not a new 4930k. But we will see what the shop says.


When did you purchase the CPU? Hopefully it is still within their warranty period and they actually allow a refund without doing something like, "We need a 35% restocking fee...", UGH! I hate it when companies pull that crap, YOU AREN'T RESTOCKING IT THOUGH!!! lol

What are you looking to buy if they give you a refund?


----------



## PachAz

I dont know, either a 6600k, 6700k, or a 4790k. But we will see what happens.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> What I meant was that not too many people have X79 that I know of since I live in a small community. I havent updated to windows 10, I still use windows 7 like I did back in the days. BIOS update I did after I experianced this problem. So far, both prime95, IBT and OCCT give the same error i.e. worker stopped and core error.
> 
> 
> 
> First things, as of late Prime95 is just not safe... There have been many cases of it frying well cooled hardware recently. So I would suggest that you stop using that at all to bench.
> 
> Regarding your cores, have you tried changing the number of cores in use and seeing how that affects things? I suspect you have a couple of fried cores on your CPU. :-(
Click to expand...

do you have any links, i have not had any problems with any of my pcs


----------



## Madmaxneo

It looks as though I will either need to send in my CPU for the replacement on the intel tuning plan or I would need to pay for a new one until they received mine. Alternatively I could get a different CPU temporarily to replace this one while I am awaiting my 4930k replacement. So what is a good low cost 2011 cpu for this board? This will only be for about 2 weeks at best so the speed is not that important and a quad core would be fine.
Anyone know of any good deals I could look into?


----------



## PachAz

These freaking 4930k really do degrade alot faster compared to the mainstream ivy briges even with voltage that are below max recommended for 24/7. I mean I had my 3570k alomost 2 years on 4.8ghz with 1.4v in bios and it still passed +20 hours prime95 last time I tested it.

I wont be going enthusiast plattform anymore that is for sure, the added cost for x79/x99 motherboards and 6 core cpu is really not worth it unless you play only games using 4 cores or more or work with apps needing multiple cores, and even then the newer generation quads with HT will be as fast as older generation 6 cores in those games at 1080p or higher resolution. Also its difficult to find replacement components once the life cycle is out since alot more people buy main stream and hence more such stuff will be available used. In my case I am forced to get another cpu (and motherboard) no matter if the shop accept the cpu and give refund or not since there is not that many used 4930k available where I live and certanly no ones on the stock at the supplier.

I have wanted to change my system a while since I care more about single core speed than multiple cores but thanks to this stupid issue I cant sell the cpu because frankly who would want to buy a 6 core that is unstable even at stock clocks? The term future proof for me has gotten another significance for me i.e. upgrade to what is best and still have money over to upgrade in the future. For most gamers like me, an x79 system cant be justified from a price point and hardly from an overclocking standpoint since these chips are sentive it seems.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> These freaking 4930k really do degrade alot faster compared to the mainstream ivy briges even with voltage that are below max recommended for 24/7. I mean I had my 3570k alomost 2 years on 4.8ghz with 1.4v in bios and it still passed +20 hours prime95 last time I tested it.
> 
> I wont be going enthusiast plattform anymore that is for sure, the added cost for x79/x99 motherboards and 6 core cpu is really not worth it unless you play only games using 4 cores or more or work with apps needing multiple cores, and even then the newer generation quads with HT will be as fast as older generation 6 cores in those games at 1080p or higher resolution. Also its difficult to find replacement components once the life cycle is out since alot more people buy main stream and hence more such stuff will be available used. In my case I am forced to get another cpu (and motherboard) no matter if the shop accept the cpu and give refund or not since there is not that many used 4930k available where I live and certanly no ones on the stock at the supplier.
> 
> I have wanted to change my system a while since I care more about single core speed than multiple cores but thanks to this stupid issue I cant sell the cpu because frankly who would want to buy a 6 core that is unstable even at stock clocks? The term future proof for me has gotten another significance for me i.e. upgrade to what is best and still have money over to upgrade in the future. For most gamers like me, an x79 system cant be justified from a price point and hardly from an overclocking standpoint since these chips are sentive it seems.


I hope you didn't take my post about getting a replacement as a mark for your comments above. My 4930k is stable and has been at 4.3 since I set it that way. The problem is it will not overclock above 4.3 ghz no matter what I try. I simply lost the silicon lottery on this one. I took part in the Intel Tuning Plan so I could replace this sub par cpu with a different one. There is a good chance I will get an average 4930k and that will be better than mine. There is also a slight chance I will get a much better overclocker than mine....

Though I am new to overclocking I have learned a few things here on this board in particular. No two CPU's are alike and one may overclock extremely well where another in the same batch may not overclock at all. Some CPUs can seemingly go on forever at outrageous OC settings while there are some that can last at best a year or two. When we overclock we take that chance and accept it that our chip may fail at any time. It sounds like you got a great overclocker in that i5 but your 4930k couldn't handle the load for long but at least it was better than my 4930k.

What did you have your 4930k OC'd to anyway?

I also checked out the PC you have in your sig and I am a little confused about what you had for a video card because you have a GTX 980 Ti X3 listed but there is a different card in the description.

To the Board: I did find a quad core Xeon socket 2011 for only $99!


----------



## PachAz

There are no guarantees for the OC as far as I know. And I had mine tuned to 4.5ghz 1.330v, 5 hours prime95 custom blend at least. I have the 980ti it was just the picture that was wrong, or maybe I just made up the whole story







.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> These freaking 4930k really do degrade alot faster compared to the mainstream ivy briges even with voltage that are below max recommended for 24/7. I mean I had my 3570k alomost 2 years on 4.8ghz with 1.4v in bios and it still passed +20 hours prime95 last time I tested it.
> 
> I wont be going enthusiast plattform anymore that is for sure, the added cost for x79/x99 motherboards and 6 core cpu is really not worth it unless you play only games using 4 cores or more or work with apps needing multiple cores, and even then the newer generation quads with HT will be as fast as older generation 6 cores in those games at 1080p or higher resolution. Also its difficult to find replacement components once the life cycle is out since alot more people buy main stream and hence more such stuff will be available used. In my case I am forced to get another cpu (and motherboard) no matter if the shop accept the cpu and give refund or not since there is not that many used 4930k available where I live and certanly no ones on the stock at the supplier.
> 
> I have wanted to change my system a while since I care more about single core speed than multiple cores but thanks to this stupid issue I cant sell the cpu because frankly who would want to buy a 6 core that is unstable even at stock clocks? The term future proof for me has gotten another significance for me i.e. upgrade to what is best and still have money over to upgrade in the future. For most gamers like me, an x79 system cant be justified from a price point and hardly from an overclocking standpoint since these chips are sentive it seems.


Although you are mostly correct, the price delta between mainstream and enthusiast 'X' systems can be as low as $75-100, however at stock speeds the mainstream processors are usually going to outperform the enthusiast offerings. Even in the applications that benefit from extra cores, often times the actual performance difference is not significant enough to justify the added cost for most people. Unfortunately, extra cores never have and likely never will scale well, heck, even multi-GPU scaling is often better than core scaling. :-(

Definitely right though, if you are a gamer, always avoid the enthusiast platforms, unless you desperately need your epeen extension or just have money to literally burn...


----------



## Mega Man

not really esp now more and more games are running 8 cores is it worth it ? depends on you. for me i enjoy playing so yes it is


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> These freaking 4930k really do degrade alot faster compared to the mainstream ivy briges even with voltage that are below max recommended for 24/7. I mean I had my 3570k alomost 2 years on 4.8ghz with 1.4v in bios and it still passed +20 hours prime95 last time I tested it.


Don't put this on ALL 4930K's.... my 4930K has been clocked at 4.6-4.7ghz (depending on the task) for nearly 2 years without a hint of degradation. Either you just got a lemon or there was something wrong in your overclock that caused it to burn out.


----------



## PachAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Don't put this on ALL 4930K's.... my 4930K has been clocked at 4.6-4.7ghz (depending on the task) for nearly 2 years without a hint of degradation. Either you just got a lemon or there was something wrong in your overclock that caused it to burn out.


I never said it was the fault of the 4930k alone, since it shouldnt degrade so fast. Im just saying that these chips seem alot more prone to degrading than the mainstream ivy bridge. How ever the situations is unfortiunate. I had manual voltage 1.330v while most people run with offset, but still that shouldnt make it degrade so fast.


----------



## Madmaxneo

What are everyone's thoughts on the Intel Xeon E5-1603 as a temporary replacement for my 4930k. I have to send in my 4930k for them to send me a new one back using the Intel Tuning Plan......


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What are everyone's thoughts on the Intel Xeon E5-1603 as a temporary replacement for my 4930k. I have to send in my 4930k for them to send me a new one back using the Intel Tuning Plan......


Well, as a temporary replacement, for me at least, anything would be fine, as long as your expectations are appropriate.

That being said, I still have to take issue with using the tuning plan to try and get a better overclocking CPU. Intel has been generous enough to offer us tinkerers some cheap 'insurance' in the event of a hardware failure due to overclocking, and I have seen quite a few people using it as a method to "cheat" Intel into dulling out a new CPU for no reason, costing Intel money for their generosity. Just a bit disappointing to see people work the system like that is all.

As stated before though, good luck in your endeavor, and here's to hoping you don't get something even worse. That Silicon lottery is a vexing mistress.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Well, as a temporary replacement, for me at least, anything would be fine, as long as your expectations are appropriate.
> 
> That being said, I still have to take issue with using the tuning plan to try and get a better overclocking CPU. Intel has been generous enough to offer us tinkerers some cheap 'insurance' in the event of a hardware failure due to overclocking, and I have seen quite a few people using it as a method to "cheat" Intel into dulling out a new CPU for no reason, costing Intel money for their generosity. Just a bit disappointing to see people work the system like that is all.
> 
> As stated before though, good luck in your endeavor, and here's to hoping you don't get something even worse. That Silicon lottery is a vexing mistress.


Yeah all is good but since my current 4930k is sub par my chances of at least gaining an "average" quality cpu are pretty decent.


----------



## Madmaxneo

If this XPSC MB water block set doesn't work out what do you all recommend to cool the RIVBE MB components?


----------



## PachAz

Why wouldnt the xspc motherboard for the black edition work?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> Why wouldnt the xspc motherboard for the black edition work?


It was given to me for free from a friend on this board. It didn't work for him but he is not so sure the problem was with the blocks. So he gave to me to see if it would work for me.


----------



## PachAz

That is strange since there are two versions, the reguar for the IV extreme and the black one for the BE. Which one do you have?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> That is strange since there are two versions, the reguar for the IV extreme and the black one for the BE. Which one do you have?


Which one do I have or which am I asking for?
Considering we are on the RIVBE board I figured you would assume the one for the RIVBE, which is the one I have and if need be a different block type in case this one doesn't work.

What would you or anyone recommend?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Well, as a temporary replacement, for me at least, anything would be fine, as long as your expectations are appropriate.
> 
> That being said, I still have to take issue with using the tuning plan to try and get a better overclocking CPU. Intel has been generous enough to offer us tinkerers some cheap 'insurance' in the event of a hardware failure due to overclocking, and I have seen quite a few people using it as a method to "cheat" Intel into dulling out a new CPU for no reason, costing Intel money for their generosity. Just a bit disappointing to see people work the system like that is all.
> 
> As stated before though, good luck in your endeavor, and here's to hoping you don't get something even worse. That Silicon lottery is a vexing mistress.


I hear you, in principle... but in reality, I don't think Intel cares. Their profit margin on HEDT chips is so high it's worthwhile for them to offer the Tuning Plan. Why shouldn't we take advantage of it? If it was eating into their profits believe that they would ask us to send in our degraded chips for inspection & diagnosis before they agreed to replace anything. Since they don't, it's a safe assumption they're not losing a penny on the deal.

That said, I'm not sure I've ever heard of anybody getting a BETTER overclocker from the Tuning Plan than the chip they started out with, so buyer beware. Rumor has it they use their lowest binned parts as Tuning Plan replacements.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I hear you, in principle... but in reality, I don't think Intel cares. Their profit margin on HEDT chips is so high it's worthwhile for them to offer the Tuning Plan. Why shouldn't we take advantage of it? If it was eating into their profits believe that they would ask us to send in our degraded chips for inspection & diagnosis before they agreed to replace anything. Since they don't, it's a safe assumption they're not losing a penny on the deal.
> 
> That said, I'm not sure I've ever heard of anybody getting a BETTER overclocker from the Tuning Plan than the chip they started out with, so buyer beware. Rumor has it they use their lowest binned parts as Tuning Plan replacements.


I have heard of two people that have received better chips than what they had before, I believe the one who reported a high OC of about 4.7 ghz on the replacement chip was on this thread.
I believe I have a great chance of getting at least an average chip which would be just fine with me as that would be better than what I have now. Besides I think I may have messed this chip with prime95 and the avx settings. I remember when I was able to hit 4.4 I was running prime95 then suddenly I was unable to hit anything higher than a 4.3, so there is a great possibility that it was prime that screwed this cpu.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Have any of you had any issues with the hard drive engaging? As of July, I had my board RMA'd for power issues. They replaced it with a new board, and so far it's worked fine off of Windows 8.1, up until Friday. The power works just fine, but now when I start up, the hard drive engage during the start up process, but then cut off after 5 seconds. The board is left "hanging" so to speak, and shortly after, the system reboots all over again. It's as if there might be a driver issue or something in Windows that's not allowing the hard drive to engage.

Error Code: KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED

I have a total of 4 drives. 3 SSD's, and 1 mechanical.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have heard of two people that have received better chips than what they had before, I believe the one who reported a high OC of about 4.7 ghz on the replacement chip was on this thread.
> I believe I have a great chance of getting at least an average chip which would be just fine with me as that would be better than what I have now. Besides I think I may have messed this chip with prime95 and the avx settings. I remember when I was able to hit 4.4 I was running prime95 then suddenly I was unable to hit anything higher than a 4.3, so there is a great possibility that it was prime that screwed this cpu.


Yeah, just say no to Prime. ("this is your cpu. This is your cpu on Prime95. Any questions?" lol) I promise Cinebench R16 will find errors faster and with loads less stress on your chip. Once you can pass Cinebench, fine-tune with Realbench. Once you can pass Cinebench + 3 passes through Realbench, your system is rock solid.

Although, to be perfectly honest, I usually do finish off with a couple of passes through Heaven with Prime95 running in the background just for good measure - but I'm talking like 20-30 minutes, max. All that nonsense out there about running Prime95 for days on end to find an error is just that, *Nonsense*.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Have any of you had any issues with the hard drive engaging? As of July, I had my board RMA'd for power issues. They replaced it with a new board, and so far it's worked fine off of Windows 8.1, up until Friday. The power works just fine, but now when I start up, the hard drive engage during the start up process, but then cut off after 5 seconds. The board is left "hanging" so to speak, and shortly after, the system reboots all over again. It's as if there might be a driver issue or something in Windows that's not allowing the hard drive to engage.
> 
> Error Code: KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
> 
> I have a total of 4 drives. 3 SSD's, and 1 mechanical.


Which SATA port do you have it plugged in to? Make sure it's in one of the Intel ports, *NOT* one of the Asmedia ones. If it's in a ASMedia port and you have Secureboot on, it's likely disengaging when the OS does its SecureBoot check


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Which SATA port do you have it plugged in to? Make sure it's in one of the Intel ports, *NOT* one of the Asmedia ones. If it's in a ASMedia port and you have Secureboot on, it's likely disengaging when the OS does its SecureBoot check


The problem with that is that the hard drives have been plugged into the same locations since i built the rig 2 years ago (even after the recent RMA). I just woke up one random day and the hard drives decided not to engage properly... that lead me to believe that it's possibly a driver issue.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> The problem with that is that the hard drives have been plugged into the same locations since i built the rig 2 years ago (even after the recent RMA). I just woke up one random day and the hard drives decided not to engage properly... that lead me to believe that it's possibly a driver issue.


Hmmm, yeah, if you haven't changed anything in the physical layout or the bios, sounds like a dead drive issue to me.

But if it is indeed plugged into one of the ASMedia ports, try enabling CSM (in bios/uefi) & setting storage devices to "Legacy OPROM" and see if that helps. The only other thing I could think of would be to update the asmedia drivers.... but that really shouldn't have any effect on basic functionality of the drive. in the absence of functional drivers, the system just loads the generic disk.sys -- literally ANY drive should work.

fwiw, though, you should exhaust all of the Intel ports BEFORE using the ASMedia ports.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, just say no to Prime. ("this is your cpu. This is your cpu on Prime95. Any questions?" lol) I promise Cinebench R16 will find errors faster and with loads less stress on your chip. Once you can pass Cinebench, fine-tune with Realbench. Once you can pass Cinebench + 3 passes through Realbench, your system is rock solid.
> 
> Although, to be perfectly honest, I usually do finish off with a couple of passes through Heaven with Prime95 running in the background just for good measure - but I'm talking like 20-30 minutes, max. All that nonsense out there about running Prime95 for days on end to find an error is just that, *Nonsense*.


Yeah it seems that everyone has different ideas on what programs to run for whatever reasons. I have used Cinebench in the past but have not heard of Realbench. I will check them out.

though to tell you the truth I do not see any reason for running more than one maybe two stress tests. I mean is there any real reason for doing it over and over again?

Thanks for the info.....


----------



## Mega Man

sorry but that makes me laugh, cinebench is a bench not a stability

as i posted in the last thread madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...

i lol at people who say prime killed this chip. it didnt. on newer cpus you use manual not adaptive. it really isnt that hard you dont have to agree but this post pretty much says it all, that said stability is subjective- feel free to be any kinda stable you want, but i am lazy and i dont want a corrupted drive, ill continue to go ibt-avx, prime then rip several long blurays to hd,


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry but that makes me laugh, cinebench is a bench not a stability


"is a bench not a stability"? lol Umm, ok.

Laugh all you want, I guarantee Cinebench will crash faster and more consistently than any other benchmark out there. Go ahead, waste hours and kill your cpu with Prime95 if you want to, but 10 seconds of Cinebench will reveal overclock weakness with a lot less fuss.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry but that makes me laugh, cinebench is a bench not a stability
> 
> 
> 
> "is a bench not a stability"? lol Umm, ok.
> 
> Laugh all you want, I guarantee *Cinebench will crash faster and more consistently than any other benchmark out there*. Go ahead, waste hours and kill your cpu with Prime95 if you want to, but 10 seconds of Cinebench will reveal overclock weakness with a lot less fuss.
Click to expand...

I 100 percent can believe the bold.

The rest of it as explained above is pretty sad that this failed logic has prevailed in the the overclocking society of this age


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I 100 percent can believe the bold.
> 
> The rest of it as explained above is pretty sad that this failed logic has prevailed in the the overclocking society of this age


I still think you're chasing phantoms, but you know, knock yourself out if that's your thing. I've used a combination of Cinebench + Realbench + Heaven for years now and have yet to find any problem with it. *COULD I* test with Prime95 for days on end as some folks do? Sure, but why should I when Cinebench + Realbench + Heaven yield the same result? If I ever find one of those phantom errors you're claiming will someday corrupt my bootsector and take all of my data with it I'll let you know.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Another confirmed boot install of Windows with an Intel 750 on the Rampage IV Black:



Just a small performance hit on X79, but that's ok to me.

Install went pretty smooth.









PS, EK block on the way too!


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Another confirmed boot install of Windows with an Intel 750 on the Rampage IV Black:
> 
> 
> 
> Just a small performance hit on X79, but that's ok to me.
> 
> Install went pretty smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS, EK block on the way too!


Did you get an "error" message upon choosing the install drive that the device isn't bootable or something similar and you could just click next?

Edit. or something like 'Windows cannot be installed on this drive'?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Did you get an "error" message upon choosing the install drive that the device isn't bootable or something similar and you could just click next?
> 
> Edit. or something like 'Windows cannot be installed on this drive'?


No, no errors. Went pretty good.

On another note...

I like to know why there is a performance hit using a NVMe drive on x79 compared to x99, if anyone knows?

Thanks.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> No, no errors. Went pretty good.


Great stuff! I see you're on Windows 10, had some trouble installing Win 8.1 on my Intel 750 on X99.









I think I'll have to try my RIVEBE again sometime...


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> No, no errors. Went pretty good.
> 
> On another note...
> 
> I like to know why there is a performance hit using a NVMe drive on x79 compared to x99, if anyone knows?
> 
> Thanks.


My speeds drop by a ton after a few reboots. Are your speeds staying consistent? The first screen shot you showed looks great!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Great stuff! I see you're on Windows 10, had some trouble installing Win 8.1 on my Intel 750 on X99.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'll have to try my RIVEBE again sometime...


Yes, windows 10. Just got it and installed it a couple weeks ago. I have to say it's pretty good so far.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> My speeds drop by a ton after a few reboots. Are your speeds staying consistent? The first screen shot you showed looks great!


I get consistent speeds all the time. I just posted a screen in the AS SSD thread, my windows 7 install( OCZ Vertex 4 )using the Intel 750 as storage:



Better numbers

I have set up as dual boot for windows 10 and 7.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Watsup people


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Yes, windows 10. Just got it and installed it a couple weeks ago. I have to say it's pretty good so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get consistent speeds all the time. I just posted a screen in the AS SSD thread, my windows 7 install( OCZ Vertex 4 )using the Intel 750 as storage:
> 
> 
> 
> Better numbers
> 
> I have set up as dual boot for windows 10 and 7.


When using it as your boot drive. Notice any performance issues? I'm trying to find out why my 400GB model drops by around 20% read speeds after a few reboots.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

No performance issues at all on boot. I had a fresh install of windows 10 from the get go. I seen you have been having issues, wonder what's going on?

And hi HOMECINEMA-PC.


----------



## qcktthfm1

Great to hear that. I'm gonna fresh install Windows 10 Pro on 2nd hard drive, use BIOS choose what to boot.
Hope it likes my SLI








Do we need to update Asus AI suite?
I find BIOS, Chipset for Windows 10 .. Do I need to update too? But then when I boot to Windows 7, everything mess up








I guess I need to try Windows 10 in a sepearate machine.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> No performance issues at all on boot. I had a fresh install of windows 10 from the get go. I seen you have been having issues, wonder what's going on?
> 
> *And hi HOMECINEMA-PC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qcktthfm1*
> 
> Great to hear that. I'm gonna fresh install Windows 10 Pro on 2nd hard drive, use BIOS choose what to boot.
> Hope it likes my SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do we need to update Asus AI suite?
> I find BIOS, Chipset for Windows 10 .. Do I need to update too? But then when I boot to Windows 7, everything mess up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I need to try Windows 10 in a sepearate machine.


For Windows 7, set CSM to Enabled, Boot from Storage Devices to "Legacy OPROM first"... then under Secure Boot, click into the submenu for keys and click the top option (I think it's "unload secure boot keys" or something like that). You can leave Secure Boot set to Windows UEFI if you want, it doesn't really matter - it's the keys being loaded that is causing Windows 7 boot to fail. Once you unload the Secure Boot keys, the CSM (which is actually a linux bootloader) kicks in and the "Legacy OPROM" option you selected in the CSM menu tells the bootloader to allow the Windows 7 bootloader.

You can also boot into Windows 10 with the same setup, but you won't have Microsoft's "Secure Boot" mode protection. Opinions vary wildly on whether that matters or not... I'll leave that up to you to figure out for yourself. The best way to set up Windows 10 for dual-boot if your system is already configured to run Windows 7 is to burn it to CD... installing 10 from usb flash can be tricky and prone to boot errors (again, the problem is Secure Boot doesn't like our last-gen asmedia USB drivers).

If you want to go back to Secure Boot mode for Windows 8/8.1/10, just go back to the Secure Boot menu, click "Load default keys"... then set everything in CSM to "UEFI First", and finally CSM > DISABLED.

Anytime there's a problem booting to either Windows 7 or 10, 99% of the time the problem is Secure Boot.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Anyone here have that link to the updated/modded bios drivers that are still not yet available on the Asus website?
I noticed another small annoyance that someone on the Microsoft forums thinks may be a MB BIOS issue. The problem I am having is windows explorer will immediately close whenever I right click on on any of the quick access folders/icons....


----------



## Mega Man

just an fyi i have no special drivers, i tried the new wifi drivers and i have few issues with win 10,

the biggest problem i have is the newer updates ( when first upgraded, i didnt have the problem) both my laptop and my pcs keep dropping wifi... as the wifi is completely different, i think it is a windows problem,

and my middle mouse button, when i click i cant scroll.....


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

EK block installed on my Intel 750:







There was a small issue with the install.

The one 5x4 screw that needs a plastic washer when screwing down the pcb to the block, the other side of the pcb also needs a washer too. My 750 wasn't lighting up, thought it was a broken pci-E slot all of sudden, but noticed the stand off of the block was shorting out the 750.

Just an FYI.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just an fyi i have no special drivers, i tried the new wifi drivers and i have few issues with win 10,
> 
> the biggest problem i have is the newer updates ( when first upgraded, i didnt have the problem) both my laptop and my pcs keep dropping wifi... as the wifi is completely different, i think it is a windows problem,
> 
> and my middle mouse button, when i click i cant scroll.....


I have neither of those issues. My middle mouse button works fine and I am pretty sure my wifi works, though I haven't really used it in awhile because my phone kept connecting to it and staying connected when I would shut the PC down so I removed it from my phone.

The two issues I am having are with my USB 3.0 ports and certain devices not working correctly with startup and an issue where right clicking on the quick access icons in windows explorer would close the explorer window.

I was asking because about the drivers because they may solve these two issues (the USB 3.0 one I know I have had since I installed windows 10, not sure about the other one) and I really don't want to go searching through this board for the last one that was posted.........


----------



## bayside500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> EK block installed on my Intel 750:
> 
> There was a small issue with the install.
> 
> The one 5x4 screw that needs a plastic washer when screwing down the pcb to the block, the other side of the pcb also needs a washer too. My 750 wasn't lighting up, thought it was a broken pci-E slot all of sudden, but noticed the stand off of the block was shorting out the 750.
> 
> Just an FYI.


very nice, but do those kinda cards really need that kind of cooling ?

either way that looks badass


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> EK block installed on my Intel 750:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was a small issue with the install.
> 
> The one 5x4 screw that needs a plastic washer when screwing down the pcb to the block, the other side of the pcb also needs a washer too. My 750 wasn't lighting up, thought it was a broken pci-E slot all of sudden, but noticed the stand off of the block was shorting out the 750.
> 
> Just an FYI.


But why?

Do you really need to cool the PCIe SSDs?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

The Intel 750s can get warm, even the 1.2TB version more so.

But this is more for looks and the cool factor for me.


----------



## Kimir

There is a topic about how high the M2/pcie SSD get warm somewhere here with IR camera showing +90°c or so, regardless of the brand.
I think they are talking about in the new samy 950 topic here too.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> There is a topic about how high the M2/pcie SSD get warm somewhere here with IR camera showing +90°c or so, regardless of the brand.
> I think they are talking about in the new samy 950 topic here too.


How much power do these things consume to run like that?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> How much power do these things consume to run like that?


Not that much apparently, but they literally burn lol. I don't have any M2/pcie ssd yet, I'm waiting for the 950 Pro to be available (can be seen in pre order here already, much cheaper than any other).
I don't know if any review is showing the power consumption under heavy workload, I saw anand review about the 950pro, but only talking about idle consumption. On the Intel 750 there is no mention at all about that, duh.


----------



## Madmaxneo

What causes them to get so hot? It seems everything else that gets hot and needs cooling CPU, GPU, MB (north bridge etc), and so on is something that tends to draw more power.
The thing that worries me on this is if all that heat bears down on the life expectancy of the drive. Instead of how many times (and how much data) it can be written to it may well now be a formula based on heat and usage equaling time. So water cooling them is probably an extremely great idea.


----------



## Kimir

It's the controller that get hot, not the memory itself, and those drive throttle due to the heat. Why are they heating that much, I have no idea but on the pugetsystems video, they put them through big data file copy. If you are going to fraps on those kind of ssd, yeah must actively cool them.








It would be good to see how is the heat on daily use, software install, gaming or else that read and write on the drive that isn't a copy of a big junk file.
I'm keeping an eye on those new pcie ssd, it's probably my next purchase... well next year.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have neither of those issues. My middle mouse button works fine and I am pretty sure my wifi works, though I haven't really used it in awhile because my phone kept connecting to it and staying connected when I would shut the PC down so I removed it from my phone.
> 
> The two issues I am having are with my USB 3.0 ports and certain devices not working correctly with startup and an issue where right clicking on the quick access icons in windows explorer would close the explorer window.
> 
> I was asking because about the drivers because they may solve these two issues (the USB 3.0 one I know I have had since I installed windows 10, not sure about the other one) and I really don't want to go searching through this board for the last one that was posted.........


I'm having problems with File Explorer in the latest preview build, too (10565). I think it's related to file sharing / user rights, i.e. the 'owner' of the explorer process doesn't have proper access to view/launch the item you're clicking on, and Windows freaks out and Explorer crashes. Try reverting the file/link back to default user/security, clear the Windows cache, and then try the link/file again.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I'm starting to wonder if I got another bad board from ASUS. I got my replacement board back in July, and the hard drives are still not engaging during start up. I have to manually boot from the Windows (8.1/64bit) CD in order to get my desktop. Luckily I have all of my files backed up elsewhere, but this is ridiculous. It may be a driver issue, but even after a Windows reinstall, I still get the same problem - the hard drive engages when I turn the PC on, but shuts off after just 8 seconds, and the motherboard follows. These are all new hard drives, and they've never failed before, so I'm beginning to wonder if it's the board itself... Again.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'm starting to wonder if I got another bad board from ASUS. I got my replacement board back in July, and the hard drives are still not engaging during start up. I have to manually boot from the Windows (8.1/64bit) CD in order to get my desktop. Luckily I have all of my files backed up elsewhere, but this is ridiculous. It may be a driver issue, but even after a Windows reinstall, I still get the same problem - the hard drive engages when I turn the PC on, but shuts off after just 8 seconds, and the motherboard follows. These are all new hard drives, and they've never failed before, so I'm beginning to wonder if it's the board itself... Again.


If the drive is functioning during Windows setup, it's not the board malfunctioning, it's something failing when Windows loads. Have you checked the Secure Boot / CSM settings? Or was the system functioning fine for awhile after Windows reinstall, but now they've started failing to load again?

I had a RIVE that I had that happen to repeatedly. I think I had to RMA it twice. I finally broke down and just bought a new RIVB to replace the RIVE that was obviously a lemon. Haven't had a single problem with the RIVB since.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I'm having problems with File Explorer in the latest preview build, too (10565). I think it's related to file sharing / user rights, i.e. the 'owner' of the explorer process doesn't have proper access to view/launch the item you're clicking on, and Windows freaks out and Explorer crashes. Try reverting the file/link back to default user/security, clear the Windows cache, and then try the link/file again.


I'll try that later if I remember...lol..
Be careful with build 10565. There are apparently some serious issues with that build and remote desktop. I know it doesn't work but apparently if you try to connect via remote desktop it screws up your system so bad that the only way to get back up and running is through a completely new clean install.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I hear you, in principle... but in reality, I don't think Intel cares. Their profit margin on HEDT chips is so high it's worthwhile for them to offer the Tuning Plan. Why shouldn't we take advantage of it? If it was eating into their profits believe that they would ask us to send in our degraded chips for inspection & diagnosis before they agreed to replace anything. Since they don't, it's a safe assumption they're not losing a penny on the deal.
> 
> That said, I'm not sure I've ever heard of anybody getting a BETTER overclocker from the Tuning Plan than the chip they started out with, so buyer beware. Rumor has it they use their lowest binned parts as Tuning Plan replacements.


The financial loss isn't what I take issue with, because I doubt that they lose anything on any of the chips that are getting returned, heck, I bet they aren't even on all of them... My issue is the principle of the thing. I tend to be a person of principles and integrity, and to me, personally, this sort of thing is no different than stealing. That being said, that is my perspective, and I would never expect anybody to change their mind, or their opinions based on my feelings of a thing, but again, my principles require me to say what I am thinking in such a situation.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> The financial loss isn't what I take issue with, because I doubt that they lose anything on any of the chips that are getting returned, heck, I bet they aren't even on all of them... My issue is the principle of the thing. I tend to be a person of principles and integrity, and to me, personally, this sort of thing is no different than stealing. That being said, that is my perspective, and I would never expect anybody to change their mind, or their opinions based on my feelings of a thing, but again, my principles require me to say what I am thinking in such a situation.


I don't understand your reason for considering it stealing. They offer a plan to replace CPUs that have been damaged by OCing. I believe they are doing this to inspire people to push their chips a little harder. With this program they can gather data as to how each chip is damaged and possibly develop better chips with higher OC capabilities.... They can also use that research to develop higher base clock chips.... Essentially what they are doing is a slightly less expensive way of doing some hard core research.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I don't understand your reason for considering it stealing. They offer a plan to replace CPUs that have been damaged by OCing. I believe they are doing this to inspire people to push their chips a little harder. With this program they can gather data as to how each chip is damaged and possibly develop better chips with higher OC capabilities.... They can also use that research to develop higher base clock chips.... Essentially what they are doing is a slightly less expensive way of doing some hard core research.


I completely and totally understand and support using the plan to replace a CPU that has been damaged by overclocking, however, what I do not agree with is using the plan in order to try and replace a CPU just because a person is not happy with their fully functional CPU that just doesn't overclock how a person wants it to. When you buy a CPU you accept the fact that it may not overclock well, it's just part of buying a processor. Most people that are not happy with their overclock simply sell their CPU and either just buy another one (either a used one that is verified to overclock how they like or a new one), some even take the time to find the serial range of good processors and buy one of those.

As such, to me it is comparable to stealing because

A:If Intel knew the real reason you are exchanging it I bet they would deny your claim.

and

B:As stated, when you buy a processor you go into it knowing that it may not overclock well, just because you aren't happy with it doesn't make it defective. Especially given the multitude of people expressing that the overclock you are getting is perfectly normal for that particular SKU.

Once again, this is just my perspective, it isn't meant to cast judgement nor to imply anything positive or negative. People are people, and we all see things differently, and personally I find it disappointing that after many, many years of Intel not supporting their K SKU processors beyond the standard warranty, and then when they finally do offer a warranty (not just a warranty, but an incredibly out-of-Intel style, inexpensive warranty) it pains me and disappoints me to see people take advantage of this generous system.

Once more, just to be perfectly clear, because despite my best efforts to explain I am not being or implying any judgement or negativity, I am overwhelmingly often taken the wrong way, and it sucks. So please, please don't take any of this in any way other than informative, that's all, this is just information.  Happy happy, joy joy!!! Just imagine a monkey riding a donkey! Then smile.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Gonna have a new member soon here. Better late than never, lets hope I can hit 4.7+!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Gonna have a new member soon here. Better late than never, lets hope I can hit 4.7+!


YAAAAY! Glad to see that there is another person still interested in this beast of a fantastic board! Hope that you love it! Welcome to the club pal.


----------



## Mega Man

Let us know if you need any help


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Gonna have a new member soon here. Better late than never, lets hope I can hit 4.7+!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> YAAAAY! Glad to see that there is another person still interested in this beast of a fantastic board! Hope that you love it! Welcome to the club pal.
Click to expand...

My friend is a die-hard ASUS fan and I'm sick of being stuck at 4.4, so I finally gave in since there was an OCN member selling off his old one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Let us know if you need any help


You might see me here quite a few times when I sit down for a night!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> My friend is a die-hard ASUS fan and I'm sick of being stuck at 4.4, so I finally gave in since there was an OCN member selling off his old one.


Awesome! I am sure you got a pretty good deal then, certainly better than the $500 plus a $25 gift card at Newegg... What board are you coming from? Also, what processor do you have? I am guessing it is a 4930K.

I for one can attest to the superior overclocking that this board is capable of. I purchased a used 4930K,and the previous owner was able to 4.4gHz @1.4v with an RIVE, however, with minimal effort I was initially able to hit 4.5Hz @1.4v, and with about thirty minutes of tinkering I was able to get as high as 4.6gHz @1.38v (though not 100% stable, it would bench just fine, but one game kept crashing), and I was able to achieve a stable overclock of 4.5gHz @1.325v, as well, I can go up to 4.4gHz with only 1.25v. Although, I can not say exactly how much of that is the motherboard and how much of it is years of experience with over clocking processors.

Either way, it is still a fantastic board, indeed the best board I have ever owned


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I completely and totally understand and support using the plan to replace a CPU that has been damaged by overclocking, however, what I do not agree with is using the plan in order to try and replace a CPU just because a person is not happy with their fully functional CPU that just doesn't overclock how a person wants it to. When you buy a CPU you accept the fact that it may not overclock well, it's just part of buying a processor. Most people that are not happy with their overclock simply sell their CPU and either just buy another one (either a used one that is verified to overclock how they like or a new one), some even take the time to find the serial range of good processors and buy one of those.
> 
> As such, to me it is comparable to stealing because
> 
> A:If Intel knew the real reason you are exchanging it I bet they would deny your claim.
> 
> Once more, just to be perfectly clear, because despite my best efforts to explain I am not being or implying any judgement or negativity, I am overwhelmingly often taken the wrong way, and it sucks. So please, please don't take any of this in any way other than informative, that's all, this is just information.  Happy happy, joy joy!!! Just imagine a monkey riding a donkey! Then smile.


Some parts removed.

Honestly the two times I talked to Intel I told them my exact reason for replacing the CPU. That it only hits 4.3 ghz. Though to be honest I did hit 4.4 a few times and it would run until I started the stress test in prime95 and it would crash. I seriously think it was prime that fried my CPU just enough to keep it from going above 4.3ghz, at least that is how it looks to me.

Regardless I do not intend to run prime95 anymore....lol.

BTW I didn't take offense, I usually don't especially when it is online...


----------



## SparkyBoy006

*Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver pack and updated BIOS 10/31*

*Drivers updated with:*
-Broadcom_Bluetooth_12.0.1.731
-Broadcom_WLAN_7.35.317.0
-Intel_LAN_20.4.1
-Intel_MEI_11.0.0.1169
-Intel_RST_14.7.0.1000
-Realtek_HDAudio_7647

*BIOS updated with:*
-CPU MicroCode IvyBridge-E and SandyBridge-E 6E4-428, 6E2-20D, 6D7-710, 6D6-619, 6D5-513
-OROM Intel Boot Agent CL v0.1.05
-EFI Intel Gigabit UNDI v0.0.09
-Intel OROM/EFI IRST v14.6.1.2340
(This pack now also includes a modified RIVBE 0701 BIOS for those that want to use that one instead)

*Read the included ReadMe files for any special instructions or notes when you download this pack!*

Download the latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver/BIOS pack HERE
_MD5_: 1de918498d01c93dfbecd33e55d21d01

Please report any issues.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> *Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver pack and updated BIOS 10/31*
> 
> *Drivers updated with:*
> -Broadcom_Bluetooth_12.0.1.731
> -Broadcom_WLAN_7.35.317.0
> -Intel_LAN_20.4.1
> -Intel_MEI_11.0.0.1169
> -Intel_RST_14.7.0.1000
> -Realtek_HDAudio_7647
> 
> *BIOS updated with:*
> -CPU MicroCode IvyBridge-E and SandyBridge-E 6E4-428, 6E2-20D, 6D7-710, 6D6-619, 6D5-513
> -OROM Intel Boot Agent CL v0.1.05
> -EFI Intel Gigabit UNDI v0.0.09
> -Intel OROM/EFI IRST v14.6.1.2340
> (This pack now also includes a modified RIVBE 0701 BIOS for those that want to use that one instead)
> 
> *Read the included ReadMe files for any special instructions or notes when you download this pack!*
> 
> Download the latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver/BIOS pack HERE
> _MD5_: 1de918498d01c93dfbecd33e55d21d01
> 
> Please report any issues.


So what issues do these fix? The reason I ask is because I do not see any Asmedia drivers listed. I am still having trouble with the USB 3.0 ports and I believe they use the Asmedia controllers I am on the latest Asmedia USB 3.0 driver (1.16.28.1) and I am still having the same old issues.


----------



## Mega Man

so whats the point of the updated microcode ?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'm starting to wonder if I got another bad board from ASUS. I got my replacement board back in July, and the hard drives are still not engaging during start up. I have to manually boot from the Windows (8.1/64bit) CD in order to get my desktop. Luckily I have all of my files backed up elsewhere, but this is ridiculous. It may be a driver issue, but even after a Windows reinstall, I still get the same problem - the hard drive engages when I turn the PC on, but shuts off after just 8 seconds, and the motherboard follows. These are all new hard drives, and they've never failed before, so I'm beginning to wonder if it's the board itself... Again.


I am sure you've already done this, but I didn't see anything in your post... Have you already tested the drives in a different rig, as well, have you attempted to boot from different drives in this rig? Just to be certain...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Where might I find an extension cable for the wifi antenna for this board?


----------



## Mega Man

newegg


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so whats the point of the updated microcode ?


Not sure what it does in the bios, but last time their was a windows update about microcode update, I couldn't run my OC with voltage offset + Turbo voltage offset. The Turbo voltage offset wasn't working. I see since then that particular windows update disappeared.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Im still running 7 and haven't had any problems with me BE setup for over a year now


----------



## PachAz

Hi,

Some updates regarding my faulty cpu. I got a new one from the shop, which was suprising since they didnt mention anything if they found the problems I described or not. I would wish they would contact me so I could choose to get the money back instead because what will I do with a 4930K now I dont really know.


----------



## PolRoger

I just got mine setup and running over the weekend.


----------



## TATH

Hi all ,

I want to joint the club. I got two black editions.

Lets see if i find the picture.





Project : Deskbuild "Lost".


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Im still running 7 and haven't had any problems with me BE setup for over a year now


Yeah but WIndows 7 is so yesterday.,...lol....


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Win 10 on my bros pc is a fail , i just wanna turn it on and every thing works. If it aint broke (win10) dont fix it .


----------



## Kimir

I agree with you on that. Still w7 on my daily rig. Toying with 8.1/10 on the bench table but that's it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Except for the USB 3.0 issue Win 10 is awesome. My issue may be just me as I have not heard of others with the same problem.


----------



## Mega Man

totally OT

but i saw this and have to share

http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/sys/5253662447.html

my fav lines
Quote:


> To start this machine is running the absolute balls to the wall Intel Core i7-5820K Sextuple Core processor maxed out at 4,500mhz when its pushed. Given each core hypers that's *54,000* megahertz of processing power.
> ( snipped )
> 
> You cannot just buy these parts & achieve these speeds. I had to purchase three of these processors & two of these boards to finally win the silicon lottery & be able to push the parts this far.


anyone else feel likes it is like buying a used car?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> totally OT
> 
> but i saw this and have to share
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/sys/5253662447.html
> 
> 
> 
> my fav lines
> anyone else feel likes it is like buying a used car?


This guy is serious! I wonder how many prank calls he has received so far....lol


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I'm on Windows 10 and also feel that windows 7 feels old now. But most benchies run faster on 7 than 10, so I have 7 installed on a spare ssd.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Where might I find an extension cable for the wifi antenna for this board?


I always check eBay for things like this... Retailers often charge a ridiculous amount for a small cable, and you can go on eBay and get the same thing for pennies... Anyhow, the connector (I believe) is called an RP-SMA connector (If I remember correctly anyhow, though that one might be the slightly larger one)...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Some updates regarding my faulty cpu. I got a new one from the shop, which was suprising since they didnt mention anything if they found the problems I described or not. I would wish they would contact me so I could choose to get the money back instead because what will I do with a 4930K now I dont really know.


Awesome, glad that they are working it out decently... Have you tried contacting them to find out if they will? I find that usually retailers are not the most diligent with such things, as well, they typically assume people want a replacement part and not a refund.


----------



## PachAz

I have put my motherboard and cpu on sale on a forum, so I will see what price I get. Basicaly I dont have any need for the cpu now. I allready sold the RAM. I dont have time to argue with incompetent shop keepers.


----------



## PolRoger

Bumping up my overclock... Testing 4.7Ghz with ~1.3v vcore @ DDR3-2133C9 (Hynix BFR sticks).

I've also done some benching at 4.8 with ~1.35v but this sample chip seems more suited to 4.5/4.6/4.7(max) for regular daily type useage.



Edit: ^^^ Sample (settings) not stable... Now testing vcore @ ~1.35v for 4.7...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Anyone here have recommendations for a 24" Gsync monitor, low in cost but it has good features?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Not that much apparently, but they literally burn lol. I don't have any M2/pcie ssd yet, I'm waiting for the 950 Pro to be available (can be seen in pre order here already, much cheaper than any other).
> I don't know if any review is showing the power consumption under heavy workload, I saw anand review about the 950pro, but only talking about idle consumption. On the Intel 750 there is no mention at all about that, duh.


I actually came to the thread to see if anyone was using this on a RIVBE, I seen someone saying it wont boot on one becasue the card lacks oprom. Any confirmation on will this work or go with an intel. I'm slightly leaning towards the Intel atm anyway because the PCI E adapters all look well bad.


----------



## Kimir

That I can't tell. Still not available here and when I'll get it I'll use it on the Rampage V anyway, since this one sure does have support for NVMe.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Anyone here have recommendations for a 24" Gsync monitor, low in cost but it has good features?


sorry i have never heard of nvidia ( aka gsync ) and cheap in the same sentence


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry i have never heard of nvidia ( aka gsync ) and cheap in the same sentence


I didn't say cheap, I said low in cost (meaning inexpensive)....lol.
That being said I have this monitor on my wishlist and was wondering if it was a pretty good gaming monitor and if there were any better alternatives?


----------



## Mega Man

Even so my statement still rings true - even when inexpensive is substituted for cheap


----------



## PolRoger

I decided to purchase this combo because I'm still not quite ready to transition to 6th gen/DDR4 and I've got some nice DDR3 kits that I still want to use.

Looks like 4.6GHz makes for a nice balance between volts/temps/overclock on this sample... Now currently testing at higher memory speeds... DDR3-2666C10.


----------



## Wam7

Has anybody using a RIVBE upgraded from the RIVE and used the same chip in both? I could really do with the extra SATA ports on the RIVBE but ultimately I'm trying to work out which will better overclock my 3930k better out of the two boards.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Has anybody using a RIVBE upgraded from the RIVE and used the same chip in both? I could really do with the extra SATA ports on the RIVBE but ultimately I'm trying to work out which will better overclock my 3930k better out of the two boards.


I did with a 3970x, overclocked the same.


----------



## quoni

How do I check the versions of the motherboard BIOS if you do not have the option to run it?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quoni*
> 
> How do I check the versions of the motherboard BIOS if you do not have the option to run it?


Asus Suite III can show you,
Speccy I believe can also show you,
AIDA64 should be able to.
Reboot and it will say during post ( Hit esc if you see the ROG logo )


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I did with a 3970x, overclocked the same.


OK thanks for that. Are the bios settings exactly the same in both boards?


----------



## quoni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Asus Suite III can show you,
> Speccy I believe can also show you,
> AIDA64 should be able to.
> Reboot and it will say during post ( Hit esc if you see the ROG logo )


Exactly I have a problem with booting from this motherboard and I do not how to check the version of BIOS


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I did with a 3970x, overclocked the same.
> 
> 
> 
> OK thanks for that. Are the bios settings exactly the same in both boards?
Click to expand...

i have yet to see a asus board ( same socket obviously ) with "different" settings the higher level board you get the more tweaking you can do, in the RIVBEs case more tweaks are avail in the memory


----------



## Dwofzz

Hi guys, what is the max " safe " temps for PCH and the mobo for RIVBE?

Is it 105 degrees celsius ( 221 degrees Fahrenheit ) as usual or how high is okay, since the motherboard applies 90 degrees as a max by it self it should be around the 100 ( 200 ) mark right?

I'm wondering since I always set it to 80 degrees as a turn of point and well hey I've forgot about the fans so the pc did shutdown on me recently because of the temp limit...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Hi guys, what is the max " safe " temps for PCH and the mobo for RIVBE?
> 
> Is it 105 degrees celsius ( 221 degrees Fahrenheit ) as usual or how high is okay, since the motherboard applies 90 degrees as a max by it self it should be around the 100 ( 200 ) mark right?
> 
> I'm wondering since I always set it to 80 degrees as a turn of point and well hey I've forgot about the fans so the pc did shutdown on me recently because of the temp limit...


The board is correct by setting it at 90 deg as a max. There are some chips that can go up to like 95 but not all.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The board is correct by setting it at 90 deg as a max. There are some chips that can go up to like 95 but not all.


I did lower does settings to 70 degrees since I tend to forget about the fans so this have happened like one or two times before.. :/

But as I said I always set it at 80 degrees as a max so the board should be fine right? t:thumb:


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> I did lower does settings to 70 degrees since I tend to forget about the fans so this have happened like one or two times before.. :/
> 
> But as I said I always set it at 80 degrees as a max so the board should be fine right? t:thumb:


Yeah should be fine, though if your temps get that high I would be worried. I would try to keep your temps in the mid to lower 60's when gaming or pushing your CPU. If it goes higher I would install better cooling.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah should be fine, though if your temps get that high I would be worried. I would try to keep your temps in the mid to lower 60's when gaming or pushing your CPU. If it goes higher I would install better cooling.


Everything is watercooled, just forgot to turn up the fan speed so It got a little hot..


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Everything is watercooled, just forgot to turn up the fan speed so It got a little hot..


Usually the cpu max out at 62 c* PCH and mobo around 35 - 40


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Usually the cpu max out at 62 c* PCH and mobo around 35 - 40


That is good then.
What do you have your CPU OC'd to and what do you use to control your fans?
I have the SwiftTech H-240X and I run my system in silent mode all the time and my cpu never goes above the low 60's even under heavy gaming load.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That is good then.
> What do you have your CPU OC'd to and what do you use to control your fans?
> I have the SwiftTech H-240X and I run my system in silent mode all the time and my cpu never goes above the low 60's even under heavy gaming load.


I use a fan controller and this chip doesn't go any higher than 4.53 GHz so that's what I'm at until my new cpu arrives...


----------



## gecko991

I love this board. Got a 4930k on water at 4700 24/7 now for over a year, it's not a great chip and requires more vcore then others but my temps are awesome using a separate loop with a PA 120.3 thermochill rad and EK supreme block.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I am sure you've already done this, but I didn't see anything in your post... Have you already tested the drives in a different rig, as well, have you attempted to boot from different drives in this rig? Just to be certain...


I haven't tried using a different rig yet to test the drives, but I have needed to use an external CD drive with the windows disc in order to boot. Otherwise, the drives continue not to engage fully when I start up. My last option would be to take it to Fry's, or some computer repair shop to see what they have to say about it.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> My friend is a die-hard ASUS fan and I'm sick of being stuck at 4.4, so I finally gave in since there was an OCN member selling off his old one.
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! I am sure you got a pretty good deal then, certainly better than the $500 plus a $25 gift card at Newegg... What board are you coming from? Also, what processor do you have? I am guessing it is a 4930K.
> 
> I for one can attest to the superior overclocking that this board is capable of. I purchased a used 4930K,and the previous owner was able to 4.4gHz @1.4v with an RIVE, however, with minimal effort I was initially able to hit 4.5Hz @1.4v, and with about thirty minutes of tinkering I was able to get as high as 4.6gHz @1.38v (though not 100% stable, it would bench just fine, but one game kept crashing), and I was able to achieve a stable overclock of 4.5gHz @1.325v, as well, I can go up to 4.4gHz with only 1.25v. Although, I can not say exactly how much of that is the motherboard and how much of it is years of experience with over clocking processors.
> 
> Either way, it is still a fantastic board, indeed the best board I have ever owned
Click to expand...

I'm sorry for the late reply, I never got a notification that you even quoted me!

I had a 4930k, but it couldn't handle 16GBs DDR3 @ 2400MHz, so I traded it back for the 3930k I bought from him for free. I just got my board today and I just got everything all set up.

Doing some fine-tuning, but I'm already at 4.8GHz @ 1.45v. I haven't started fine-tuning yet. Just threw it up to 4.8 and booted.










Spoiler: Pics











Forgive me, I only have an iPhone to take pics with.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> I'm sorry for the late reply, I never got a notification that you even quoted me!
> 
> I had a 4930k, but it couldn't handle 16GBs DDR3 @ 2400MHz, so I traded it back for the 3930k I bought from him for free. I just got my board today and I just got everything all set up.
> 
> Doing some fine-tuning, but I'm already at 4.8GHz @ 1.45v. I haven't started fine-tuning yet. Just threw it up to 4.8 and booted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive me, I only have an iPhone to take pics with.


If you don't have 8 mem sticks you have done it wrong.. When running Quad channels with only 4 sticks you are supposed to populate the 4 gray slots


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> I'm sorry for the late reply, I never got a notification that you even quoted me!
> 
> I had a 4930k, but it couldn't handle 16GBs DDR3 @ 2400MHz, so I traded it back for the 3930k I bought from him for free. I just got my board today and I just got everything all set up.
> 
> Doing some fine-tuning, but I'm already at 4.8GHz @ 1.45v. I haven't started fine-tuning yet. Just threw it up to 4.8 and booted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive me, I only have an iPhone to take pics with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't have 8 mem sticks you have done it wrong.. When running Quad channels with only 4 sticks you are supposed to populate the 4 gray slots
Click to expand...

Weird, hasn't said anything about it yet? This is the same config I had on my Extreme6 so I figured it might be the same on this board. Oh well, as long as I can get it stable, right?


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Weird, hasn't said anything about it yet? This is the same config I had on my Extreme6 so I figured it might be the same on this board. Oh well, as long as I can get it stable, right?


Nah not if you ask me, I'm too picky and I do want the most possible performance out of it!


This is the right mem config for 4 sticks


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Weird, hasn't said anything about it yet? This is the same config I had on my Extreme6 so I figured it might be the same on this board. Oh well, as long as I can get it stable, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nah not if you ask me, I'm too picky and I do want the most possible performance out of it!
> 
> 
> This is the right mem config for 4 sticks
Click to expand...

But mine looks so much betterrrrrr.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> I'm sorry for the late reply, I never got a notification that you even quoted me!
> 
> I had a 4930k, but it couldn't handle 16GBs DDR3 @ 2400MHz, so I traded it back for the 3930k I bought from him for free. I just got my board today and I just got everything all set up.
> 
> Doing some fine-tuning, but I'm already at 4.8GHz @ 1.45v. I haven't started fine-tuning yet. Just threw it up to 4.8 and booted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive me, I only have an iPhone to take pics with.


So you're one of the brave souls willing to push past the 'recommended' voltage limit of 1.4v... I tried to push up to 1.425, but to run it at that voltage long term was not an option for me, I did get a stable (bench tools but no gaming) 4.67gHz at that voltage though.

No worries on the pics, they do well enough for our needs on here.  Your rig is looking nice... And clean... More than can be said about mine right now... I would share a photograph, but my undying shame would take me... Maybe after I get my sweet black nickel reservoir installed and get her cleaned up a bit. Well, maybe six or eight bits, one will surely be insufficient!


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> I'm sorry for the late reply, I never got a notification that you even quoted me!
> 
> I had a 4930k, but it couldn't handle 16GBs DDR3 @ 2400MHz, so I traded it back for the 3930k I bought from him for free. I just got my board today and I just got everything all set up.
> 
> Doing some fine-tuning, but I'm already at 4.8GHz @ 1.45v. I haven't started fine-tuning yet. Just threw it up to 4.8 and booted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive me, I only have an iPhone to take pics with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you're one of the brave souls willing to push past the 'recommended' voltage limit of 1.4v... I tried to push up to 1.425, but to run it at that voltage long term was not an option for me, I did get a stable (bench tools but no gaming) 4.67gHz at that voltage though.
> 
> No worries on the pics, they do well enough for our needs on here.  Your rig is looking nice... And clean... More than can be said about mine right now... I would share a photograph, but my undying shame would take me... Maybe after I get my sweet black nickel reservoir installed and get her cleaned up a bit. Well, maybe six or eight bits, one will surely be insufficient!
Click to expand...

Over the years, I've learned that I won't stay on one CPU long enough to face degradation.







This is the longest I've held onto a CPU, coming up on two years.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Over the years, I've learned that I won't stay on one CPU long enough to face degradation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the longest I've held onto a CPU, coming up on two years.


Oh, yeah that is understandable then. So out of curiosity, what do you say to the people you sell them to? As well, how much do you typically discount a unit for after running them like that? If at all...


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Over the years, I've learned that I won't stay on one CPU long enough to face degradation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the longest I've held onto a CPU, coming up on two years.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, yeah that is understandable then. So out of curiosity, what do you say to the people you sell them to? As well, how much do you typically discount a unit for after running them like that? If at all...
Click to expand...

I tell them how a CPU was used and at what settings and then we discuss on a price from there. Otherwise, I tend to have fair prices since they aren't in use for very long. I think I had a 3570k for a total of 5 months and a 2550k for even less.


----------



## GBMaryland

Well,

I'm now a member of the exclusive RE4BE!

My 4 year old discovered the blue glowing power button and pressed it a dozen times rapid and destroyed my Gigabyte G1.Assassin2 x79 motherboard, and this was the best LGA2011 to be found. (It looks like I don't have to mod to firmware to get it to work! WOW... The Assassin was a bit of a nightmare there.)

Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone was help me find some updated audio drivers for the RE4BE.

I've been attempting to download them from Asus, but my firewall is telling there is a Trojan in the driver pack!!

(This is the actual link to the Asus package, but I'd refrain from downloading the audio driver package until we figure out what is in there that detects as a trojan virus....

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/audio/Audio_Win7-8-81-10_V6017525.zip )

I really appreciate any input. (FWIW: It's a Sonicwall )

GB


----------



## reev3r

Hey, is anybody having trouble with Windows 10? I am having nothing but problems.

First,my upgrade stopped working, the start menu would not open no matter what I did, even after hours of troubleshooting, then the right click menu would take several minutes to load, and when it did sometimes not all entries were there. Apparently there are many people experiencing issues with upgrading, so I did a clean install, which worked great at first, but then it started taking ten minutes for Windows to boot from my 1,150MB/s (1.1GB/s) R.A.I.D. Array, which should take 14 seconds!

Now, there are issues like Crysis 3... I launch the game, but no splash screen pops up, the task starts out with ~15% CPU Usage, then slowly drops to 0%.after about 15-20 minutes, Crysis 3 launches and everything is fine, gameplay is flawless with awesome framerates... I am really at a loss.

Fortunately,after installing new Intel RSTe drivers the boot issue was resolved, and although it is a little slower than it should be (varely), it is certainly within a reasonable tolerance, but the Crysis 3 issue is still present. I am installing a couple of other games to see if it is just C3 or if all games suckit...

Let me know what you guys are experiencing...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GBMaryland*
> 
> Well,
> 
> I'm now a member of the exclusive RE4BE!
> 
> My 4 year old discovered the blue glowing power button and pressed it a dozen times rapid and destroyed my Gigabyte G1.Assassin2 x79 motherboard, and this was the best LGA2011 to be found. (It looks like I don't have to mod to firmware to get it to work! WOW... The Assassin was a bit of a nightmare there.)
> 
> Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone was help me find some updated audio drivers for the RE4BE.
> 
> I've been attempting to download them from Asus, but my firewall is telling there is a Trojan in the driver pack!!
> 
> (This is the actual link to the Asus package, but I'd refrain from downloading the audio driver package until we figure out what is in there that detects as a trojan virus....
> 
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/audio/Audio_Win7-8-81-10_V6017525.zip )
> 
> I really appreciate any input. (FWIW: It's a Sonicwall )
> 
> GB


Peculiar... I've never noticed the "dlcdnet.asus.com" before, I've only ever seen that my drivers came from asus.com

Perhaps I just wasn't paying attention. Although, just to be clear, are you certain you were on the Asus web site for your download...?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Hey, is anybody having trouble with Windows 10? I am having nothing but problems.
> 
> First,my upgrade stopped working, the start menu would not open no matter what I did, even after hours of troubleshooting, then the right click menu would take several minutes to load, and when it did sometimes not all entries were there. Apparently there are many people experiencing issues with upgrading, so I did a clean install, which worked great at first, but then it started taking ten minutes for Windows to boot from my 1,150MB/s (1.1GB/s) R.A.I.D. Array, which should take 14 seconds!


Yes, this was [is?] a known problem at launch. It happened to me twice.... the third installation was the charm. I haven't seen it happen again in any updates/upgrades since (I'm in the Insider Preview program, so I've had it update several times and clean installed it a few). It's been a while since I thought about this problem, but if I recall correctly it has something to do with your user account type (Admin vs non, online vs off, etc) and the ability of Windows to index the "Users" folder to load the interface. I never could quite fix it once it happened, always resorted to reinstalling the OS entirely (or I think creating a secondary user account and then migrating everything into the new Admin account and deleting the original one worked, too). Google "windows 10 can't click start taskbar" and you should find a lot on it from months ago.

Other than that particular annoyance (which I haven't encountered since July), Window 10 seems good to me. Secure Boot / UEFI settings in the X79 platform vs modern MS application is still an annoyance, but so far I haven't found any reason to dual boot with 7 like I did during 8. I haven't done a lot of gaming on it lately, but even the pickiest bunch of gamers I know of (the nvidia 3d Vision fanatics.... trust me, we're a PICKY bunch) are pretty much praising windows 10 and starting to let go of windows 7.


----------



## GBMaryland

Yep,

It tried it from Asus US and Asus UK, but the link is the same on both of the sites (global).

Unless someone is interdicting the web traffic, it's absolutely an Asus site. (I did look at the TTL and route information.)

The download is a global URL for Asus, as opposed to hosting in the US or the UK, etc. I'm wondering if they did something Lenovo like and slipped something in (spyware) or the audio chipset manufacturer slipped something in. Odd (in general).

The last possibility is that it's a false positive.

The biggest issue is that I can't upload the file, once I get my hands on it, to VirtusTotal because it's 300+MB in size.

Which is interesting, because Asus posts three versions, the first is ~250MB and the last is about 370MB. I wonder what could change that much to the point the drivers are that different in size over 2 years?!?!

Heh.

GB


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yes, this was [is?] a known problem at launch. It happened to me twice.... the third installation was the charm. I haven't seen it happen again in any updates/upgrades since (I'm in the Insider Preview program, so I've had it update several times and clean installed it a few). It's been a while since I thought about this problem, but if I recall correctly it has something to do with your user account type (Admin vs non, online vs off, etc) and the ability of Windows to index the "Users" folder to load the interface. I never could quite fix it once it happened, always resorted to reinstalling the OS entirely (or I think creating a secondary user account and then migrating everything into the new Admin account and deleting the original one worked, too). Google "windows 10 can't click start taskbar" and you should find a lot on it from months ago.
> 
> Other than that particular annoyance (which I haven't encountered since July), Window 10 seems good to me. Secure Boot / UEFI settings in the X79 platform vs modern MS application is still an annoyance, but so far I haven't found any reason to dual boot with 7 like I did during 8. I haven't done a lot of gaming on it lately, but even the pickiest bunch of gamers I know of (the nvidia 3d Vision fanatics.... trust me, we're a PICKY bunch) are pretty much praising windows 10 and starting to let go of windows 7.


I also found that creating a new user account allowed me to do some things, but unfortunately it still suffered from some of the same issues, and the boot time was still a lengthy process. As well, the game remained a 20 minute wait to load. Also, my HDD activity light remained on 100% of the time, despite no HDD's taking on activity...

I did do some Google-fu in order to find some kind of resolution, but unfortunately everything I found was stuff I had already tried (with one or two exceptions - but neither did those efforts have any effect)... So, it looks like my third installation of Win10 is on its way...

Ugh. I hate OS installation... Actually... That isn't true, the actual installation takes all of ten minutes from a USB device, it's the process of installing drivers, software and configuration (Ugh... Configuring Windows the way I like it is an absolute beast of a time, it takes for-ev-er!)...

Anyhow, thanks for confirming my concerns... I just wanted to be certain it wasn't some hardware issue and that other people with this board were experiencing the same troubles.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GBMaryland*
> 
> Yep,
> 
> It tried it from Asus US and Asus UK, but the link is the same on both of the sites (global).
> 
> Unless someone is interdicting the web traffic, it's absolutely an Asus site. (I did look at the TTL and route information.)
> 
> The download is a global URL for Asus, as opposed to hosting in the US or the UK, etc. I'm wondering if they did something Lenovo like and slipped something in (spyware) or the audio chipset manufacturer slipped something in. Odd (in general).
> 
> The last possibility is that it's a false positive.
> 
> The biggest issue is that I can't upload the file, once I get my hands on it, to VirtusTotal because it's 300+MB in size.
> 
> Which is interesting, because Asus posts three versions, the first is ~250MB and the last is about 370MB. I wonder what could change that much to the point the drivers are that different in size over 2 years?!?!
> 
> Heh.
> 
> GB


Yeah, upon further inspection I see that it is indeed the same URL. I wonder if they didn't change servers since the last time I actively looked at the URL. Or if perhaps I was downloading from a different location (local instead of global).

As far as the size goes, most drivers grow over time, but in this case that is quite a significant difference, however, with it being a Windows 10 driver, and probably also having support for previous OS'es, I suspect that is where the majority of it is coming from, especially considering that they probably include both x64 and x86 driver versions in the same package, which is what most of the drivers seem to implement, rather than making a specific installer for each process, they make a universal installer that simply checks your installed OS and process type and installs the appropriate version, as you can generally inspect the installers/subfolders, and see the different folders for each version that it calls upon during installation...

Although, another possibility is that they have added features to the software itself, including things like higher resolution textures/images, more complex features, and using the same software for multiple different pieces of hardware/chipsets which could potentially increase the overall size of the package despite containing a bunch of useless software for other devices... Unfortunately, that seems to be the route we are going, it used to be, when internet was much slower, that each device had it's own driver package, and specific software for it, because they needed to keep the package size as small as possible for download, but now that everyone is on a 5Mb/s+ connection, they don't really take package size into consideration, only what is easiest/costs the least for them... Make one installer for all of their hardware, and just send that out...


----------



## reev3r

I also forgot to point out that the Asus Windows 10 page doesn't have the download for quite a few of the devices. The main concern is the RSTe driver (The SATA/R.A.I.D. controller), which seemed to be the primary issue with Windows taking forever to boot, as once I was able to find the correct driver (which took forever) it seemed to resolve the issue after a couple of reboot cycles... Although, I am still having problems with shutdown errors (It is giving me device driver errors, as well as boot device not accessible errors), so hopefully once I find the stupid motivation for that it will fix everything, but when I find that motivation I will have likely found the motivation to install my new black nickel reservoir and drain valve, which doesn't feel like it is going to happen too soon... Ugh... I just ***HAD*** to have the 400mm reservoir and *assume* that it would fit in my STH10 without measuring... "Of course it will fit, this is like the largest production case you can buy...", Yeah, rockets and science this guy does... Clearly.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I also found that creating a new user account allowed me to do some things, but unfortunately it still suffered from some of the same issues, and the boot time was still a lengthy process. As well, the game remained a 20 minute wait to load. Also, my HDD activity light remained on 100% of the time, despite no HDD's taking on activity...
> 
> I did do some Google-fu in order to find some kind of resolution, but unfortunately everything I found was stuff I had already tried (with one or two exceptions - but neither did those efforts have any effect)... So, it looks like my third installation of Win10 is on its way...
> 
> Ugh. I hate OS installation... Actually... That isn't true, the actual installation takes all of ten minutes from a USB device, it's the process of installing drivers, software and configuration (Ugh... Configuring Windows the way I like it is an absolute beast of a time, it takes for-ev-er!)...
> 
> Anyhow, thanks for confirming my concerns... I just wanted to be certain it wasn't some hardware issue and that other people with this board were experiencing the same troubles.


I'm the same - I've always dreaded upgrading or reinstalling Windows because i'm very particular about the minutiae [sp?] that 99% of everybody else ignores (i.e. which driver version is my bluetooth running? lol). *BUT* fwiw, I've found that Window 10 in particular does a rather good job of identifying your hardware and installing the best driver for it, right down to *and including* your gpu & soundcard (and I'm really REALLY picky about the sound... remind me to explain someday how I trick Windows into outputting all audio through my Winamp audio dsp stack lol).

I came to this realization after reinstalling Windows 10 probably a dozen times -- some during the beta, some due to system errors (I tinker with it a lot), and some just for kicks. Eventually I realized the only thing I really need to update with specific drivers is the Intel LAN (the Asus pack works better than MS drivers or the Intel generic one) and Intel RST AHCI (also the Asus pack works best for me). For pretty much everything else, for my 2 cents, try just leaving it alone until or unless you run into an actual reason to change it and you might just find Microsoft might have finally gotten their act together with third party drivers.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I also forgot to point out that the Asus Windows 10 page doesn't have the download for quite a few of the devices. The main concern is the RSTe driver (The SATA/R.A.I.D. controller), which seemed to be the primary issue with Windows taking forever to boot, as once I was able to find the correct driver (which took forever) it seemed to resolve the issue after a couple of reboot cycles... Although, I am still having problems with shutdown errors (It is giving me device driver errors, as well as boot device not accessible errors), so hopefully once I find the stupid motivation for that it will fix everything, but when I find that motivation I will have likely found the motivation to install my new black nickel reservoir and drain valve, which doesn't feel like it is going to happen too soon... Ugh... I just ***HAD*** to have the 400mm reservoir and *assume* that it would fit in my STH10 without measuring... "Of course it will fit, this is like the largest production case you can buy...", Yeah, rockets and science this guy does... Clearly.


It really sounds to me like what you have here is a Secure Boot conflict with your RAID/AHCI drivers. Make sure you're installing Windows in "Windows UEFI" mode in the bios and pre-loading the Intel driver at setup. If not, Secure Boot will jack up the whole system and drive you CRAZY. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. lol


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> It really sounds to me like what you have here is a Secure Boot conflict with your RAID/AHCI drivers. Make sure you're installing Windows in "Windows UEFI" mode in the bios and pre-loading the Intel driver at setup. If not, Secure Boot will jack up the whole system and drive you CRAZY. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. lol


Hehe, no worries boss, I have been building/servicing/tinkering with computers for the better part of 18 years, so I am *pretty* self-sufficient with most things. As for the drivers, unfortunately, leaving them alone is how I discovered the issues. The only drivers I installed were the ones for my 970 G1 Gaming, and for my peripherals. The R.A.I.D. worked fine initially, but as stated some issues cropped up, and some of those were fixed by installing the RST driver I found that I was confident was Windows 10 compatible, unfortunately (at least for my searchings), the Intel drivers are not exactly labeled extensively well, and some of the driver pages don't even have anything there... So it was quite irritating finding a Windows 10 x64 driver for the R.A.I.D. controller, which is just the RST driver. Though I still am not sure that I have the latest version of the RST driver/software, but it is working well, so I can't very much complain. 

Thank you very much for the suggestions though,


----------



## reev3r

I will say though, that I think the thing that made all of this difficult is that this board (Chipset) is labeled as having the RSTe subsystem, so that is what I spent the majority of my time looking for, and after not finding a Win10 driver I finally decided I would just use the RST driver instead and if it borked, well, do-over... So apparently there is some disparity between the RST/e drivers... Either way, I took the time to check and it appears that I am, indeed sporting the latest version of the RST software/driver with version 14.6.0.1029, so that is at least a positive thing. I am also going to check and see if there is an updated firmware for my SSD's, and then I think I will rebuild my R.A.I.D. 0 array so I can rule out any possible problems on that end. Then, after I reinstall Windows I plan to install devices/drivers one at a time, run the system for a while, and then move on to the next device/driver, so that I will be able to identify exactly what it is that caused the problem. Since we always (usually) either batch install drivers, and we install Windows with all of our devices connected at installation, I am thinking I will eliminate any of that from the loop to narrow the possible causes down. It is reasonably clear to me that the issue is a driver, but without further diagnostics, and a clean install, I am really limited on how to identify which one it is (Other than my belief that the RST driver is the culprit, and that the update could only fix some of the issues, and it will take a reinstall to eliminate the other, more permanent, issues)...

@chrisnyc75

Also, in retrospect, I hope my previous comment about the 18 years of computer tinkering was not offensive to you. It was genuinely not intended to be that way, and I realize the way I phrased it might have contained a little bit of [email protected]$$ery... My apologies if it came off negatively.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> @chrisnyc75
> 
> Also, in retrospect, I hope my previous comment about the 18 years of computer tinkering was not offensive to you. It was genuinely not intended to be that way, and I realize the way I phrased it might have contained a little bit of [email protected]$$ery... My apologies if it came off negatively.


Not at all, I realize you know what you're doing, just trying to help.







I've had a lot of trouble with my system this year that I eventually traced back to Secure Boot, and a lot of it sounds not dissimilar to what you're experiencing now, that's all.

Good luck getting to the bottom of it! Fortunately, we love this kind of thing, right?


----------



## Ulti

These posts about Windows 10 and this mobo are making me nervous.

My last mobo cropped out on me last night (2 pins on the 24 connector fried due to the plug coming loose over time) and bought this one after a looking at pretty much 3 motherboards for my 4930k. It has Windows 10 installed so I am hoping minimum problems with reinstalation. Tips anyone?


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> These posts about Windows 10 and this mobo are making me nervous.
> 
> My last mobo cropped out on me last night (2 pins on the 24 connector fried due to the plug coming loose over time) and bought this one after a looking at pretty much 3 motherboards for my 4930k. It has Windows 10 installed so I am hoping minimum problems with reinstalation. Tips anyone?


I have yet to encounter a single issue using this board on Windows 10. In fact, it oddly went too well.


----------



## Ulti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> I have yet to encounter a single issue using this board on Windows 10. In fact, it oddly went too well.


That's reinsuring. Thanks!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Not at all, I realize you know what you're doing, just trying to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had a lot of trouble with my system this year that I eventually traced back to Secure Boot, and a lot of it sounds not dissimilar to what you're experiencing now, that's all.
> 
> Good luck getting to the bottom of it! Fortunately, we love this kind of thing, right?


Awesome, thank you for understanding. 

I will check out secure boot and see if maybe that is the root of my problems, but I am pretty confident that it isn't, but I've been *confident* before... lol


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> These posts about Windows 10 and this mobo are making me nervous.
> 
> My last mobo cropped out on me last night (2 pins on the 24 connector fried due to the plug coming loose over time) and bought this one after a looking at pretty much 3 motherboards for my 4930k. It has Windows 10 installed so I am hoping minimum problems with reinstalation. Tips anyone?


Yeah, it seems that this board doesn't have any more problems than any other board will, it's just random issues people run into (as with any computer hardware/OS can cause). So don't get your jimmies in a rustle over anything.


----------



## Ulti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Yeah, it seems that this board doesn't have any more problems than any other board will, it's just random issues people run into (as with any computer hardware/OS can cause). So don't get your jimmies in a rustle over anything.


Haha I'm good. I just didn't want to pull what's left of my hair out of my head. Haven't received the board yet and I have heard/ read a lot of good things about this board so I am pretty confident everything will be put back together smoothly. Hopefully will post pics when it's all done.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> Haha I'm good. I just didn't want to pull what's left of my hair out of my head. Haven't received the board yet and I have heard/ read a lot of good things about this board so I am pretty confident everything will be put back together smoothly. Hopefully will post pics when it's all done.


Oh, I completely understand! I will say, in the past ~20 years of building computers, this board is by far my favorite board ever, with the second place going to my old Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe (The Premium board hadn't come out yet, but I got one of those a few years later), and a distant third going to either my Soto KT400 Dragon Platinum, or my KT266 Pro2R/U (it was the fancy board, with on board R.A.I.D. and the new USB 2.0 (Which tells you how aged I am... lol)

I haven't had any problems with this board whatsoever, well, other than user created problems...  But that's hardly the fault of the board...


----------



## Ulti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Oh, I completely understand! I will say, in the past ~20 years of building computers, this board is by far my favorite board ever, with the second place going to my old Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe (The Premium board hadn't come out yet, but I got one of those a few years later), and a distant third going to either my Soto KT400 Dragon Platinum, or my KT266 Pro2R/U (it was the fancy board, with on board R.A.I.D. and the new USB 2.0 (Which tells you how aged I am... lol)
> 
> I haven't had any problems with this board whatsoever, well, other than user created problems...  But that's hardly the fault of the board...


Yeah tell me about it! I never actually built a full tower PC till around a few years ago. Actually, the Maximus V the the first board I ever used and pretty much stuck with ASUS ever since. Can't wait to get it.


----------



## PolRoger

I'd kind of interested in knowing how many of you all running your overclock(s) with the BIOS Digi+Power Control settings set on "Auto"?

In particular I've found that changing (increasing/decreasing) the CPU Current Capability seems to have a noticeable affect as your overclock goes up...

I'm pretty sure that the BIOS auto rules are bumping that particular setting up as well when you bump up your overclock. I wish there was a way to monitor what % overcurrent the board is running while on auto for a given overclock...


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PolRoger*
> 
> I'd kind of interested in knowing how many of you all running your overclock(s) with the BIOS Digi+Power Control settings set on "Auto"?
> 
> In particular I've found that changing (increasing/decreasing) the CPU Current Capability seems to have a noticeable affect as your overclock goes up...
> 
> I'm pretty sure that the BIOS auto rules are bumping that particular setting up as well when you bump up your overclock. I wish there was a way to monitor what % overcurrent the board is running while on auto for a given overclock...


Get AI Suite. I had mine set to auto before I got it where I wanted it and I think at 4.7, it was at 120% or 130%.


----------



## PolRoger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Get AI Suite. I had mine set to auto before I got it where I wanted it and I think at 4.7, it was at 120% or 130%.


Ok ... I'll try AI Suite for this board... I've also used it in the past on some of my other ASUS boards.

I'm running now at 4.4 GHz and 120% overcurrent while "crunching" [email protected] but it seems my combo (with 4930K) needs 130% to be able to handle the surge/draw of an AVX enabled synthetic stress test. I think at even higher overclocks of ~4.7GHz/4.8GHz my setup might need 140% overcurrent!


----------



## Dwofzz

4930k got 4 of them and all needs at least 160 % to be 100 % stable at all times at 4.5 GHz ->

If I'm playing Assassin's creed unity I do need 170 % OCP otherwise the pc will just shutdown.

4960x running 4.6 GHz OCP 160% 1.4v all day you may
3930k/3960x 4 - 5 GHz 160 % OCP all day you may!


----------



## PolRoger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Oh, I completely understand! I will say, in the past ~20 years of building computers, this board is by far my favorite board ever, with the second place going to my old Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe (The Premium board hadn't come out yet, but I got one of those a few years later), and a distant third going to either my Soyo KT400 Dragon Platinum, or my KT266 Pro2R/U (it was the fancy board, with on board R.A.I.D. and the new USB 2.0 (Which tells you how aged I am... lol)
> 
> I haven't had any problems with this board whatsoever, well, other than user created problems...  But that's hardly the fault of the board...


Some of those old boards bring back memories.... I had both a Soyo KT333 Dragon Ultra Platinum Edition as well as an Abit KR7A-RAID (KT266A).


----------



## PolRoger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> 4930k got 4 of them and all needs at least 160 % to be 100 % stable at all times at 4.5 GHz ->
> 
> If I'm playing Assassin's creed unity I do need 170 % OCP otherwise the pc will just shutdown.
> 
> 4960x running 4.6 GHz OCP 160% 1.4v all day you may
> 3930k/3960x 4 - 5 GHz 160 % OCP all day you may!


Well that is interesting... Good to know that my chips' affinity to higher overcurrent % settings at higher overclocks isn't just an anomaly.

EDIT:
Well I went and installed AI Suite: Dual Intelligent Processors 4 and the BIOS auto rules for the DIGI+Power control section also defaults overcurrent to 160% for 4.5Ghz overclock...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Will this wifi extension antenna work with this board (I know I need two)?


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Will this wifi extension antenna work with this board (I know I need two)?


Can't you compare it to the one that was included with the board? That being said, unless there is more than one SMA connector, that one will work fine.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PolRoger*
> 
> Some of those old boards bring back memories.... I had both a Soyo KT333 Dragon Ultra Platinum Edition as well as an Abit KR7A-RAID (KT266A).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PolRoger*
> 
> Some of those old boards bring back memories.... I had both a Soyo KT333 Dragon Ultra Platinum Edition as well as an Abit KR7A-RAID (KT266A).


Heck yes! I loved those old boards! It really makes me sad that some of those old companies are no longer around/making consumer class boards... So you was the bee's knees back in the day. Oh, the good times, ever are they gone. :-(


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Will this wifi extension antenna work with this board (I know I need two)?


I've read that you don't need to use both of them. One is supposedly BT. I just ordered THIS for my board.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> I've read that you don't need to use both of them. One is supposedly BT. I just ordered THIS for my board.


Let me know if it actually improves the range any.

FYI, I am not getting those wires to extend my range, I am getting them because I want to place the antenna up on another shelf..


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> I've read that you don't need to use both of them. One is supposedly BT. I just ordered THIS for my board.
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if it actually improves the range any.
> 
> FYI, I am not getting those wires to extend my range, I am getting them because I want to place the antenna up on another shelf..
Click to expand...

I'll be sure to. I'm leaving for thanksgiving on Tuesday though so I might not be able to tell you until Friday or Saturday.

Currently with no antenna at all, I'm getting a 2 bar connection with the router only being 6 feet away through a wall.

I bought it so as to have as little extremities as possible.


----------



## Masika

I am going to recycle my 6990 cards until the Furyx2 cards come out. Considering an intel 750 (over 950pro as I can WC it) or recycle and old revox2 drive... so PCIe lanes and and card placement needs to be considered.

So with a dual GPU single card solution does it use 16 pcie lanes in slot one or 32? Would two dual GPUs single cards run x16x16 or x16x8x8x8?

As this board has a switch for pcie slots does it mater what slots I use at all? Or by turning off slots I can use any slots I like?

PS. New to the RIVBE club. Just arrived in the mail from NewEgg


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masika*
> 
> I am going to recycle my 6990 cards until the Furyx2 cards come out. Considering an intel 750 (over 950pro as I can WC it) or recycle and old revox2 drive... so PCIe lanes and and card placement needs to be considered.
> 
> So with a dual GPU single card solution does it use 16 pcie lanes in slot one or 32? Would two dual GPUs single cards run x16x16 or x16x8x8x8?
> 
> As this board has a switch for pcie slots does it mater what slots I use at all? Or by turning off slots I can use any slots I like?
> 
> PS. New to the RIVBE club. Just arrived in the mail from NewEgg


It'll be 16x for a dual gpu card.

Two 6990s and a 750 would be 16x and 16x, then 4x for the 750.


----------



## Masika

Thanks for the reply... did some more research and had a better look at the manual LOL

I believe I got the answer... slot 1 and 3 are x16.... so the a device like a 6990 would run x8x8 on the x16 slot. My question about the switch is mute as the motherboard has assigned lanes to slots.


----------



## reev3r

Firstly, I wanted to point out that both connections on the wireless adapter (This can be removed/upgraded if needed, it uses a MiniPCIe slot) are both for WiFi, though it is likely using one or both for Bluetooth as well. The WiFi on this board is a 2x2 solution (last I checked), which means it uses two antennas for broadcast, and two antennas for receive, so you would need to purchase two extenders in order to fully utilize the capacity of the device.

The second thing I want to mention, is that I have been considering an upgrade to X99... Mostly for the SATA ports, since this board has only 2x SATA 6GB/s ports on the chipset. Not to mention the other features of the X99 chipset... The unfortunate part is that I would need to sell all of my gear in order to upgrade, which is fine by me, but still an unfortunate part of the plan, since I've no idea how long it would take to sell everything... Especially things like my EK monoblock, and my 32GB of VLP DDR3, which isn't something many people look for, but I LOVE the look of not having any RAM at all... I have had a few people wonder how I am running a rig with no RAM at first look. lol

As well, I just saw a crazy deal for the 5930K CPU at Micro Center, the cost??? $399!!! As much as I could get for my current 4930K!!! Even with the ~8% sales tax in Minneapolis, it is still $430... I typically see this costing ~$550-600!!! It's just crazy, and now I am bummed out that I am on disability and can barely afford to survive, let alone saving for goodies... lol

Anyhow, in case anybody is looking to upgrade to X99, there is a 5930K for $400 at Micro Center, and if there isn't one in your state, then you can save the money on sales tax as well...


----------



## Ulti

Installed everything, did my loop test and went to boot my system up and nothing happened when I pushed the power button. All LEDs are on. Thought it was a memory issue and it wasnt. Power cords are all secured. Even updated the BIOS via USB and nothing.

Haven't replaced the CMOS battery.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masika*
> 
> Thanks for the reply... did some more research and had a better look at the manual LOL
> 
> I believe I got the answer... slot 1 and 3 are x16.... so the a device like a 6990 would run x8x8 on the x16 slot. My question about the switch is mute as the motherboard has assigned lanes to slots.


You will want to use slots 1 and 5 for full x16 operation. The other slots are x16 physically, and x8 electrically... If you inspect the back of the board you can easily see how the slots are wired electrically... Only 1 and 5 are fully functional x16 slots.  Hope this helps...


----------



## Masika

Thanks it sure does! I am a bit embarrassed - should have checked the manual more thoroughly.


----------



## Masika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Firstly, I wanted to point out that both connections on the wireless adapter (This can be removed/upgraded if needed, it uses a MiniPCIe slot) are both for WiFi, though it is likely using one or both for Bluetooth as well. The WiFi on this board is a 2x2 solution (last I checked), which means it uses two antennas for broadcast, and two antennas for receive, so you would need to purchase two extenders in order to fully utilize the capacity of the device.
> 
> The second thing I want to mention, is that I have been considering an upgrade to X99... Mostly for the SATA ports, since this board has only 2x SATA 6GB/s ports on the chipset. Not to mention the other features of the X99 chipset... The unfortunate part is that I would need to sell all of my gear in order to upgrade, which is fine by me, but still an unfortunate part of the plan, since I've no idea how long it would take to sell everything... Especially things like my EK monoblock, and my 32GB of VLP DDR3, which isn't something many people look for, but I LOVE the look of not having any RAM at all... I have had a few people wonder how I am running a rig with no RAM at first look. lol
> 
> As well, I just saw a crazy deal for the 5930K CPU at Micro Center, the cost??? $399!!! As much as I could get for my current 4930K!!! Even with the ~8% sales tax in Minneapolis, it is still $430... I typically see this costing ~$550-600!!! It's just crazy, and now I am bummed out that I am on disability and can barely afford to survive, let alone saving for goodies... lol
> 
> Anyhow, in case anybody is looking to upgrade to X99, there is a 5930K for $400 at Micro Center, and if there isn't one in your state, then you can save the money on sales tax as well...


Yeap I am in Australia and I have seen the crazy prices microcenter is offering







There is a cheaper option to get more sata 3 ports.. assuming you have the slots free.. get a pcie expansion card of some sort. Cheaper than a system upgrade.

EDIT There are a heap of expansion cards out there and different brands... but I am recommend this one.. and the best thing is that it uses one of the x1 pcie slots








http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=335&area=en


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> Installed everything, did my loop test and went to boot my system up and nothing happened when I pushed the power button. All LEDs are on. Thought it was a memory issue and it wasnt. Power cords are all secured. Even updated the BIOS via USB and nothing.
> 
> Haven't replaced the CMOS battery.


What parts? Check connections. Memory in correct location? Tried a different power supply? Tried a different CPU/Mobo, if possible?


----------



## Ulti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> What parts? Check connections. Memory in correct location? Tried a different power supply? Tried a different CPU/Mobo, if possible?


Actually, I fixed it. Found the problem in the connections so I replaced all the cables and it worked.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> What parts? Check connections. Memory in correct location? Tried a different power supply? Tried a different CPU/Mobo, if possible?
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, I fixed it. Found the problem in the connections so I replaced all the cables and it worked.
Click to expand...

It's always the connections.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masika*
> 
> Yeap I am in Australia and I have seen the crazy prices microcenter is offering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a cheaper option to get more sata 3 ports.. assuming you have the slots free.. get a pcie expansion card of some sort. Cheaper than a system upgrade.
> 
> EDIT There are a heap of expansion cards out there and different brands... but I am recommend this one.. and the best thing is that it uses one of the x1 pcie slots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=335&area=en


I do appreciate your suggestion, but the board actually has plenty of SATA III ports, but my issue is that they are not Intel R.A.I.D. ports. To get something that can achieve the speeds of R.A.I.D. 0 that the Intel chipped can I would probably have to spend a good $100 on a hardware R.A.I.D. controller. The only caveat is that the on board Intel controller is a hybrid R.A.I.D. subsystem and not an actual hardware R.A.I.D. like the expensive controllers are. Then the cheap, $30 controllers you find with "R.A.I.D." are actually just software R.A.I.D. on a normal SATA controller. So if your software fails it can take the data with it. While a hardware solution with a BBU will retain the data and write it once the drives are powered up again. As well as many other reasons to invest in hardware...

Obviously, only part of my reason is because of the ports, I also want the latest and greatest of course... lol I currently only have 2x 250GB Samsung 840 Evo SSD's, and I get about 1,150MB/s read/write speeds, so I am very, very happy with it, but from what I have read you get the best ratio of speed/cost with 3x SSD's, but since I am not able to add a 3rd SSD on this array with only the 2x SATAIII ports on the chipset...


----------



## Mega Man

if it makes you feel better onboard raid sucks anyway without proper raid card- on any platform....., even then i could make a pretty big argument against it,


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if it makes you feel better onboard raid sucks anyway without proper raid card- on any platform....., even then i could make a pretty big argument against it,


I have always found the Intel 'Hybrid' R.A.I.D. to provide excellent performance, and very good, though not great, reliability. I have never had a failure that I could not repair, so I am happy with that... Heck, recently I started having issues with my array and I thought it was going to need to be rebuilt, losing all of my data, since it would not boot, however, simply disabling the controller, and re-enabling it after booting into a temporary OS, and the array booted up perfectly fine without so much as a hiccup, so yeah, in the last... Goodness... I don't even remember when my first Intel board was that had their onboard R.A.I.D. I want to say it was an 875-based board... Probably around 2003/2004, it was right before my AMD build with an FX57 CPU (Yeah, the only time I have ever, EVER paid $1,000 for a CPU, and goodness was it worth it... lol Bragging rights alone!)...

Anyway, I digress... To each his own... I can tell you this, were it not for CrashPlan, and my R.A.I.D. 0 array, I would definitely be rocking a hardware solution with a BBU as I have in the past... But really, with a striped array, you're asking for trouble to begin with, so it does a constant backup to my server, which duplicates to an external drive, that I do a biweekly swap with an identical drive at my friend's house, and then does a backup to CrashPlan, so I don't really worry much...

So I backup my gaming rig to my server, my server does a duplicate of any 'mission critical' data to a 3TB external drive, that I have a copy of off-site, and I also have a CrashPlan backup of that data, plus everything else that is not mission critical. So for me, really, a R.A.I.D. is just a superfluous expense... Yeah, like spending a thousand dollars on a bunch of 3TB Seagate drives that have been failing like crazy on me!!! Yeah, just fantastic!!! I will NEVER invest another penny into Seagate's mechanical drives again... Not after my failures, as well as the failure rate that BackBlaze experienced and reported on, as well as the general failures posted all over the internet... Ugh... WD for me... Well, and HGST (Hitachi) drives, which are now a 'division' of WD, though they operate pretty well autonomously.


----------



## Ulti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> It's always the connections.


I figured it was after spending literally 42 hours building my PC and was dead tired. After that post I typed it lounged around and finally replaced all the cables and and without a hiccup, it booted. Silly me, thinking I can use my custom made cables.


----------



## Masika

Raid is over rated as my review of research and testing shows. There is no noticeable increase in real world performance... synthetic marks are more of a gimmick and a singe ssd virtual performs the same with typical use.Likewise the rapid tech from samsung out performs raid as well...

I am looking at pcie ssds.. the samsung 950 pros offer the first serious increase in real world speed. Trick is with the lack of orom on ssds now getting it to work as a boot drive









I am going to try on my RIVBE an 850 evo 500gb and an 950 pro on a silverstone expansion pcie card. I hope the samsung proprietary NVMe driver with 8.1 and then 10 will do the trick.


----------



## CheWyn

Help me. I have usb boot .But mainboard can't boot uefi boot ? how to boot usb with uefi? it's only normal boot @@


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masika*
> 
> Raid is over rated as my review of research and testing shows. There is no noticeable increase in real world performance... synthetic marks are more of a gimmick and a singe ssd virtual performs the same with typical use.Likewise the rapid tech from samsung out performs raid as well...
> 
> I am looking at pcie ssds.. the samsung 950 pros offer the first serious increase in real world speed. Trick is with the lack of orom on ssds now getting it to work as a boot drive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to try on my RIVBE an 850 evo 500gb and an 950 pro on a silverstone expansion pcie card. I hope the samsung proprietary NVMe driver with 8.1 and then 10 will do the trick.


There are great reasons for raid.

But normal raid is nothing imo. Zfs/raidz!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masika*
> 
> Raid is over rated as my review of research and testing shows. There is no noticeable increase in real world performance... synthetic marks are more of a gimmick and a singe ssd virtual performs the same with typical use.Likewise the rapid tech from samsung out performs raid as well...
> 
> I am looking at pcie ssds.. the samsung 950 pros offer the first serious increase in real world speed. Trick is with the lack of orom on ssds now getting it to work as a boot drive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to try on my RIVBE an 850 evo 500gb and an 950 pro on a silverstone expansion pcie card. I hope the samsung proprietary NVMe driver with 8.1 and then 10 will do the trick.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There are great reasons for raid.
> 
> But normal raid is nothing imo. Zfs/raidz!


As megaman said their are great reasons for raid but not for home consumer unless tou are crazy like me and have 15 3 tb drives set up in raid 50 that gives me great write and read tumes!!! Can stream 3 hd streams at same time and notice no slow down!! Now i use lsi hardware raid cards so not for everyone!!


----------



## deafboy

Machine is finally back up after being down for what feels like forever....


----------



## Mega Man

looks Slick !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Masika*
> 
> Raid is over rated as my review of research and testing shows. There is no noticeable increase in real world performance... synthetic marks are more of a gimmick and a singe ssd virtual performs the same with typical use.Likewise the rapid tech from samsung out performs raid as well...
> 
> I am looking at pcie ssds.. the samsung 950 pros offer the first serious increase in real world speed. Trick is with the lack of orom on ssds now getting it to work as a boot drive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to try on my RIVBE an 850 evo 500gb and an 950 pro on a silverstone expansion pcie card. I hope the samsung proprietary NVMe driver with 8.1 and then 10 will do the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There are great reasons for raid.
> 
> But normal raid is nothing imo. Zfs/raidz!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As megaman said their are great reasons for raid but not for home consumer unless tou are crazy like me and have 15 3 tb drives set up in raid 50 that gives me great write and read tumes!!! Can stream 3 hd streams at same time and notice no slow down!! Now i use lsi hardware raid cards so not for everyone!!
Click to expand...

that is the key, i use raidz3 on my nas ! but i want to gaurd against bitrot/the new virusus that lock your data ( cant remember what they are called ) { i dont trust my wifes websites LOL } and yea- stream my movie collection

i went zfs due to bitrot, as i have lost some sentimental movies due to bitrot \

with the baby i didnt want to chance it


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Machine is finally back up after being down for what feels like forever....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking rig!


----------



## CheWyn

i have usb install win 10 (uefi )make by rufus. but i can't boot it to uefi. My bios is 0701. Pls help me


----------



## Mega Man

how do you know you cant boot to uefi, ? we would need actual bios screenshots, not phone pics, "please help me" does not tell us what is wrong, sorry


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Download the latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver/BIOS pack HERE
_MD5_: 69b0f13627dec91934d2533de17f940a

*Updated on 11/29/15 with:*
-Asmedia_SATA6G_3.1.8.0
-Asmedia_USB3_1.16.29.1 (requires manual install through Device Manager)
-Broadcom_Bluetooth_12.0.1.750
-Broadcom_WLAN_7.35.327.0 (requires manual install through Device Manager)
-Intel_MEI_11.0.0.1173 (driver will show .1172 in device manager, the driver package is .1173)

*Updated BIOS with:*
-Intel OROM/EFI IRST v14.8.0.2377
(The driver pack now also includes a modified RIVBE 0701 BIOS for those that want to use that one instead)

*Read the included ReadMe files for any special instructions or notes when you download this pack!*

Please report any issues.

Separate BIOS download for those that do not need the drivers HERE
MD5:78a9fcfc20d80d4b1a8772552a79d1c5

-Updated Intel CPU MicroCode SandyBridge-E/IvyBridge-E
CPU Microcode 0306E4 IVB-E - 428
CPU Microcode 0206D7 SNB-E - 710
CPU Microcode 0206D6 SNB-E - 619

-OROM Intel Boot Agent CL *v0.1.06*

-EFI Intel Gigabit UNDI *v0.0.09*

-Intel OROM IRST RAID for SATA/EFI IRST RAID for SATA *v14.8.0.2377*


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Download the latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver/BIOS pack HERE
> _MD5_: 69b0f13627dec91934d2533de17f940a
> 
> *Updated on 11/29/15 with:*
> -Asmedia_SATA6G_3.1.8.0
> -Asmedia_USB3_1.16.29.1 (requires manual install through Device Manager)
> -Broadcom_Bluetooth_12.0.1.750
> -Broadcom_WLAN_7.35.327.0 (requires manual install through Device Manager)
> -Intel_MEI_11.0.0.1173 (driver will show .1172 in device manager, the driver package is .1173)
> 
> *Updated BIOS with:*
> -Intel OROM/EFI IRST v14.8.0.2377
> (The driver pack now also includes a modified RIVBE 0701 BIOS for those that want to use that one instead)
> 
> *Read the included ReadMe files for any special instructions or notes when you download this pack!*
> 
> Please report any issues.
> 
> Separate BIOS download for those that do not need the drivers HERE
> MD5:78a9fcfc20d80d4b1a8772552a79d1c5
> 
> -Updated Intel CPU MicroCode SandyBridge-E/IvyBridge-E
> CPU Microcode 0306E4 IVB-E - 428
> CPU Microcode 0206D7 SNB-E - 710
> CPU Microcode 0206D6 SNB-E - 619
> 
> -OROM Intel Boot Agent CL *v0.1.06*
> 
> -EFI Intel Gigabit UNDI *v0.0.09*
> 
> -Intel OROM IRST RAID for SATA/EFI IRST RAID for SATA *v14.8.0.2377*


Is there anything that lists what these drivers specifically fix? I am only having one issue with Windows 10 and that has to do with certain USB 2.0 devices not working properly on startup in USB 3.0 ports.


----------



## deafboy

Currently rewiring the networking for the house and using the wireless in the mean time, anyone experiencing slow WiFi on Windows 10?

The wireless itself is fine, everything checks out on my LG G4 and MBP.

Modem -> pfsense -> Switch -> two ubiquiti AC APs


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Currently rewiring the networking for the house and using the wireless in the mean time, anyone experiencing slow WiFi on Windows 10?
> 
> The wireless itself is fine, everything checks out on my LG G4 and MBP.
> 
> Modem -> pfsense -> Switch -> two ubiquiti AC APs


I have a very poor connection to my 5GHz wifi, but the 2.4GHz is phenomenal. Trying to figure out whats up with that since I bought a dual band antenna.


----------



## Mega Man

as is mine, but it may just bee poor reception on 5ghz level i dunno my laptop has done fine on it, but the 2.4ghz is fine for me

my router is 2 floors below me, i have ( finally ) 2 managed 48 port gigabit switches otw atm ( will be running full wired network, ~ 24-32 connections in the future ) and will be moving my wireless access point to a more central location !

i use the nighthawk ( original ) i was gonna get the new ones but with running a wired network i am not worried about it. i do have 2 Dlink routers enroute- for other reasons ( guest network ect ) and i can try then to see if maybe it is router ( configured as access point ) related.

i am also using pfsense !

anyone know of any ( more then ) 10 port POE routers ? at most i will be running is 10-12 cameras in my house and looking for a decent one


----------



## Madmaxneo

Wifi was always slow for me. I could never get more than 18mbps download speeds (upload was much worse) on wifi and that was with windows 7 and 8.1. I ran a cat5 cable under the house and since then my speeds have been awesome! I just did a speed test and here are my results:


----------



## Mega Man

i am at 1ms 20/12 myself, i can push 1ms/120/12 on my latop


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as is mine, but it may just bee poor reception on 5ghz level i dunno my laptop has done fine on it, but the 2.4ghz is fine for me
> 
> my router is 2 floors below me, i have ( finally ) 2 managed 48 port gigabit switches otw atm ( will be running full wired network, ~ 24-32 connections in the future ) and will be moving my wireless access point to a more central location !
> 
> i use the nighthawk ( original ) i was gonna get the new ones but with running a wired network i am not worried about it. i do have 2 Dlink routers enroute- for other reasons ( guest network ect ) and i can try then to see if maybe it is router ( configured as access point ) related.
> 
> i am also using pfsense !
> 
> anyone know of any ( more then ) 10 port POE routers ? at most i will be running is 10-12 cameras in my house and looking for a decent one


Ubuiquiti has some decently prices POE switches.


----------



## Mega Man

tyvm


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am having an issue with the memory in my system. I have 4 8gb sticks of the G.Skill Trident X 2133mhz (XMP) RAM installed on Windows 10 pro. When I was checking something with my Blu Ray drive I noticed that only 24gb was showing up in task manager. I then checked my EVGA Eleet Tuning utility and that says I only have 24gb installed. I checked the bios and it also says I only 24gb installed. I then ran Memtest86 and Memtest86+ and both programs say I only have 3 sticks of RAM installed. The odd thing is CPU-Z is reporting 32gb of RAM which is what I have installed.

I opened the case and checked the RAM seating and everything is nice and tight. I will probably pull out the ram and test it two sticks at a time to see if they all work. If, by chance, they all work when only using two sticks at a time then what could the problem be?

Any suggestions??


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Pull the cpu out and check the socket for bent pins or debris. Even just the reaseat of the cpu and heatsink can get the full amount of ram to appear again


----------



## deafboy

You might also try other dimm slots.... those can go out pretty easily.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am having a weird issue with my board. I have 4 8gb sticks of G.Skill Trident X 2133 in XMP. When I was checking as to why my Blu Ray drive only shows up when I put a disc in it I noticed that windows was only reporting 24gb of RAM. I checked CPU-Z and that says I have 32gb. I checked the BIOS and it even says I only have 24gb of RAM and when I checked task manager again it says I only have 3 sticks installed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Pull the cpu out and check the socket for bent pins or debris. Even just the reaseat of the cpu and heatsink can get the full amount of ram to appear again


It is a 4930k, There are no pins. Though I might try this as a last resort...

@deafboy That I will do.

Are there any programs that show which DIMS are recognized?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Apologies for posting again so soon with no replies yet.

I just ran through CPU-Z and it is reporting RAM in 4 slots all at the correct speeds and settings. But it is also reporting the RAM in triple channel and not quad channel, which kind of makes sense when I can only see 3 sticks in every other program.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Pins are in the socket.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am having an issue with the memory in my system. I have 4 8gb sticks of the G.Skill Trident X 2133mhz (XMP) RAM installed on Windows 10 pro. When I was checking something with my Blu Ray drive I noticed that only 24gb was showing up in task manager. I then checked my EVGA Eleet Tuning utility and that says I only have 24gb installed. I checked the bios and it also says I only 24gb installed. I then ran Memtest86 and Memtest86+ and both programs say I only have 3 sticks of RAM installed. The odd thing is CPU-Z is reporting 32gb of RAM which is what I have installed.
> 
> I opened the case and checked the RAM seating and everything is nice and tight. I will probably pull out the ram and test it two sticks at a time to see if they all work. If, by chance, they all work when only using two sticks at a time then what could the problem be?
> 
> Any suggestions??


I experienced a very similar problem, I ended up having to use a different XMP profile for my RAM, for some reason the 1.35v profile was causing problems, as soon as I disabled XMP it worked fine, and then when I switched to the 1.5v XMP profile it worked fine also...


----------



## bayside500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am having an issue with the memory in my system. I have 4 8gb sticks of the G.Skill Trident X 2133mhz (XMP) RAM installed on Windows 10 pro. When I was checking something with my Blu Ray drive I noticed that only 24gb was showing up in task manager. I then checked my EVGA Eleet Tuning utility and that says I only have 24gb installed. I checked the bios and it also says I only 24gb installed. I then ran Memtest86 and Memtest86+ and both programs say I only have 3 sticks of RAM installed. The odd thing is CPU-Z is reporting 32gb of RAM which is what I have installed.
> 
> I opened the case and checked the RAM seating and everything is nice and tight. I will probably pull out the ram and test it two sticks at a time to see if they all work. If, by chance, they all work when only using two sticks at a time then what could the problem be?
> 
> Any suggestions??


i had a similar issue when i bought some used Gskill ram, i did a RMA, has worked fine ever since.

it was that the 32GB kit i got was really 2 16GB kits with different sequence seirrial numbers, they sent me a matching set to fix it.


----------



## Masika

It does sound like faulty ram or some voltage lose to the ram... maybe increase the ram voltage as suggested and see. How new is the ram sticks? Running for a while?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I experienced a very similar problem, I ended up having to use a different XMP profile for my RAM, for some reason the 1.35v profile was causing problems, as soon as I disabled XMP it worked fine, and then when I switched to the 1.5v XMP profile it worked fine also...


I also noticed something else, when doing memtest86 it showed my timings as being 9-15-15-(something) where they should be 9-11-11-31.

I turned off XMP and now it reads all 4 sticks of RAM, but all my OC is off.

So which voltage should I change in my profile? As it is my RAM runs at 1.6v and there is a second setting at 1.10v.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bayside500*
> 
> i had a similar issue when i bought some used Gskill ram, i did a RMA, has worked fine ever since.
> 
> it was that the 32GB kit i got was really 2 16GB kits with different sequence seirrial numbers, they sent me a matching set to fix it.


Funny thing there. I purchased two separate 2x 8gb kits almost about 8 months apart and they worked perfectly fine. In fact I checked and they were from the same bin/serial sequence. I did a few tests when I first installed them and all was good. I was running at the correct timings and what not.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I also noticed something else, when doing memtest86 it showed my timings as being 9-15-15-(something) where they should be 9-11-11-31.
> 
> I turned off XMP and now it reads all 4 sticks of RAM, but all my OC is off.
> 
> So which voltage should I change in my profile? As it is my RAM runs at 1.6v and there is a second setting at 1.10v.


Yeah, sounds like the same issue I had, I was able to use the higher XMP voltage my RAM has, the nominal voltage for DDR3 is 1.5v, but if yours has a 1.6v setting I'm sure it's fine.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Yeah, sounds like the same issue I had, I was able to use the higher XMP voltage my RAM has, the nominal voltage for DDR3 is 1.5v, but if yours has a 1.6v setting I'm sure it's fine.


When I run it on XMP which sets the voltage at 1.6v it only shows 3 strips of RAM in the bios and everywhere else. That is except for CPU-Z which shows all 4 sticks of RAM. When I turn off XMP all 4 sticks show up fine but it is at the basic MB settings for RAM.

Should I experiment with the voltage settings? If so what voltage should I change first?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Update:
I went down to running two sticks in slots B1 and D1 and they work fine until I put it in XMP. I tried the other two sticks and it did the same thing. So apparently there is a problem with my XMP settings.

What should I change or do in there?

Update (again):
I did some screen shots with all four RAM sticks in the system. One with it not in XMP and two others in XMP with the two different profiles.
Not in XMP in auto


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






XMP profile 1


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






XMP profile 2


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







As you can see Windows is reporting a total of about 28 GB of RAM and at the right speeds but only 24gb of that is useable when in either XMP profile. When I turn off XMP all 32gb is useable but it is running at 1333mhz though CPU Z is reporting the RAM at around 667mhz....


----------



## deafboy

I would just set the settings manually....


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Update:
> I went down to running two sticks in slots B1 and D1 and they work fine until I put it in XMP. I tried the other two sticks and it did the same thing. So apparently there is a problem with my XMP settings.
> 
> What should I change or do in there?
> 
> Update (again):
> I did some screen shots with all four RAM sticks in the system. One with it not in XMP and two others in XMP with the two different profiles.
> Not in XMP in auto
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XMP profile 1
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XMP profile 2
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see Windows is reporting a total of about 28 GB of RAM and at the right speeds but only 24gb of that is useable when in either XMP profile. When I turn off XMP all 32gb is useable but it is running at 1333mhz though CPU Z is reporting the RAM at around 667mhz....


CPUz reports the true clock speed of the RAM, that is why you see 667, you'll want to manually select the speed instead, there should be a drop down from which to select it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

First thing I am going to do is flash the bios either down to the 0701 or do a reflash for 0801. When I tried to set the CPU to 4.3 (enter a 43 and hit enter) it reset the numbers to a 12, not sure why it did that. After that I will try to set the XMP once again and if that doesn't work I will try the settings manually. Hopefully I get it right the first time......


----------



## Madmaxneo

Update:
I flashed the BIOS to the 0701 (latest non beta version) and was able to get my system back up to my normal sub par max OC of 4.3 ghz. I tried setting it for XMP again and no joy as it only showed 3 out of the 4 sticks usable.

I then tried changing the settings manually and it started going through this cycle of; shut down, quick power on, power off, then restart and run for about 30 seconds and shut down then repeat. I tried the same settings below with 1866mhz and the results were no different. I am sure I messed up or missed one of the settings somewhere so if someone could help me out I would appreciate it.

Here are the settings I changed:
DRAM freq to 2133mhz
Rampage Tweak to mode 2 (as recommended as per this guide on the ASUS website). Then I changed the Primary timings to 9-11-11-31 respectively.

Note that the first time I changed the DRAM stuff I had forgotten to change the freq to 2133 and it booted fine of course.


----------



## Mega Man

fyi there are NO 8gb stick sets that come as 9-11-11
only the 4 gbs- ie 1x4gb 2x4gb 4x4gb 8x4gb ect

and i never have seen more then 4 stick sets of the cl9 kits, 8gb sticks are only rated at 1.65 and cl10 for 2400 you may try like 1.67 to compensate for vdrop


----------



## PolRoger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fyi there are NO 8gb stick sets that come as 9-11-11
> only the 4 gbs- ie 1x4gb 2x4gb 4x4gb 8x4gb ect
> 
> and i never have seen more then 4 stick sets of the cl9 kits, 8gb sticks are only rated at 1.65 and cl10 for 2400 you may try like 1.67 to compensate for vdrop


Were you thinking of DDR3-2400C9 kits? Those only come with double-sided ic on 4GB sticks... 2x4GB or 4x4GB etc.

There are a few 8GB sticks/kits that are spec'd at DDR3-2133C9 1.6v...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231617

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231618

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231571

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231572

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231564

I think the 1.6v kits have Samsung ic. When you go up to 2400 speed, the kits then change to C10 or C11 with 1.65v and can be either Samsung or Hynix ic and at 2666(+) they are C11 or C12 1.65v and Hynix ic.


----------



## Mega Man

yea but he said he is running 2400. and i can see 2gb kits coming with that timing , but i never have looked for them lol


----------



## Dwofzz

Think I finally got a nice chip for this board!!









Set 1.3 in bios with LLc on high, 1.296 ~ at 100 % load!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Think I finally got a nice chip for this board!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set 1.3 in bios with LLc on high, 1.296 ~ at 100 % load!


It seems so easy for me to hate you now... lol Mine will run 1.25v up to 4.4gHz, but hitting 4.5 requires 1.35+v...

The good news though, is that Microcenter is still selling the 5930K in store for $399, which is roughly what a 4930K goes for on the used market. .. So I am thinking that over the coming months that I will start my X99 build piece by piece when I see deals, and then sell my X79 parts out. Then I am planning to get an x80Ti Pascal card and sell off my 970 when those come out, so if my timing works out as planned, I will have a sweet rig right when the card is released.

I wanted to ask, it looks really, really close, but does anybody here have an Asus X99 board and can possibly check some dimensions for me, I *think* (read:hope) that my EK monoblock might fit one of the X99 boards, it certainly looks possible.


----------



## reev3r

I also meant to add...

Unfortunately with RAM, you can't have your cake and eat it too... As the speed increases, so does the latency, and there is an effective cancelling out as you move to higher clock speeds, as well, due to memory being so much faster than anything else in the system, it is the one part that you simply can't make a bottleneck of, even if you try. I've run dozens of benchmarks, and even when running your RAM kneecapped at the slowest speeds, it is effectively the exact same performance as the highest speeds... Again, the whole proportional timings thing kills it, but also the fact that memory hasn't been slow enough to bottleneck a system for many, many years. It's almost universally either the CPU or the storage that slows things down (not including GPU intensive tasks, and usually with those the GPU itself is the bottleneck)... The only time you *might* find a benefit is if you are using an iGPU, where you may see some slightly higher framerates in certain games. Add to that the increase in failure rates of higher clocked RAM, and it really makes a person question if spending the extra money on *faster*, *extreme* RAM is worth a crap at all...

Personally, I am totally content with some nice VLP DIMM's that don't even look like I have RAM installed, running at 1600mHz, and all is well, RAM just isn't a bottleneck, and it probably never will be. It kind of makes me laugh that DDR4 is even a thing, it adds nothing but lower voltages, because the perforce is identical. Unless they can find a way to lower the timings at higher clock speeds, but that isn't going to happen with the architectures we're running now, it's just not possible.

That being said, if you are running a RAM disk you might find some benefit to higher clocked RAM, but even then it will be negligible. So here's to hoping that in the coming years we will have solid state storage that is as fast as RAM, and then we'll be looking for faster RAM. lol


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> It seems so easy for me to hate you now... lol Mine will run 1.25v up to 4.4gHz, but hitting 4.5 requires 1.35+v...
> 
> The good news though, is that Microcenter is still selling the 5930K in store for $399, which is roughly what a 4930K goes for on the used market. .. So I am thinking that over the coming months that I will start my X99 build piece by piece when I see deals, and then sell my X79 parts out. Then I am planning to get an x80Ti Pascal card and sell off my 970 when those come out, so if my timing works out as planned, I will have a sweet rig right when the card is released.
> 
> I wanted to ask, it looks really, really close, but does anybody here have an Asus X99 board and can possibly check some dimensions for me, I *think* (read:hope) that my EK monoblock might fit one of the X99 boards, it certainly looks possible.


Haha I feel you, Sounds like a good plane you got there and I hope everything works out great for you!









I'm going to stick with X79 until intel releases a 10 or 12 core Extreme tho.

I'll post some settings and pictures later on but I'm currently running my 4960x at 1.276 - 1.26v at 4,6 GHz with High LLc I tried Medium but it didn't work out too well.. In fact I've never got medium LLc to work well with any cpu


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am in need of getting my 4930k traded in on the intel replacement plan. I found what I think to be a suitable chip as a temporary replacement in the Intel-Xeon-E5-2640. It is a hexacore and has more L2 cache than the 4930k. The Xeon-E5-2640 is about 1ghz slower and the 4930k tends to outperform it a great deal, but the Xeon-E5-2640 is considerably cheaper at around $150. So what do you all think of using this chip temporarily while they "inspect" my current 4930k and then send me a new one?

What differences in performance do you think I will notice with the Xeon-E5-2640 on this board?


----------



## Gualichu04

My Creative sound blaster z has been randomlly acting up through out its life. I wonder if the onbaord audio is better. I use toshlink to audio receiver that has 5.1 speakers. Can do 7.1 but the Soundblaster z can't do that.


----------



## deafboy

If you're using toslink then it doesn't matter too much since the receiver will be doing the heavy lifting.


----------



## Gualichu04

I know that, but i realy like the sound blaster features. Guess I will hold off till the sound card dies or i find better for 7.1.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Sad day boys and girls sad day. I just got a water block for the board because my loop is down and figured why not. So well problem city, When I was (still am) trying to remove the center sink (with the glowing logo) the damn screw stripped and will not for the life of the gods move. So I resulted in the only choice I have I used pliers to try to get the screw off and well beautiful scratch now presents me. Here is a pic of the scratch so what yall think? Is it toast?. I do not have an air cooler to check the boards state ATM guess I will have to buy one now and put the air blocks back on. This really really sucks.

Here is a pic for now I will see if i can take a better one i don't have a dslr though. The color of the scratched area appears copper (shiny and all that) so it to me appears just the enamel was scratched, however it does have a copper color between the 2 trace lines (is that normal?).

much better photo


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> My Creative sound blaster z has been randomlly acting up through out its life. I wonder if the onbaord audio is better. I use toshlink to audio receiver that has 5.1 speakers. Can do 7.1 but the Soundblaster z can't do that.


Personal experience here. The Zx card does sound much better than the onboard sound. Certain games don't play well with the onboard surround sound like MK X. I had to keep switching back and forth which can be a pain. Then I decided to further but my old system and install my Zx card and it sounded better right off the bat.

I am not sure of the differences between your Z card and my Zx though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am in need of getting my 4930k traded in on the intel replacement plan. I found what I think to be a suitable chip as a temporary replacement in the Intel-Xeon-E5-2640. It is a hexacore and has more L2 cache than the 4930k. The Xeon-E5-2640 is about 1ghz slower and the 4930k tends to outperform it a great deal, but the Xeon-E5-2640 is considerably cheaper at around $150. So what do you all think of using this chip temporarily while they "inspect" my current 4930k and then send me a new one?
> 
> What differences in performance do you think I will notice with the Xeon-E5-2640 on this board?


as always depends on what you do

there is a unlocked 8core xeon i am looking for for my second RIVBE but that is another story !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Sad day boys and girls sad day. I just got a water block for the board because my loop is down and figured why not. So well problem city, When I was (still am) trying to remove the center sink (with the glowing logo) the damn screw stripped and will not for the life of the gods move. So I resulted in the only choice I have I used pliers to try to get the screw off and well beautiful scratch now presents me. Here is a pic of the scratch so what yall think? Is it toast?. I do not have an air cooler to check the boards state ATM guess I will have to buy one now and put the air blocks back on. This really really sucks.
> 
> Here is a pic for now I will see if i can take a better one i don't have a dslr though. The color of the scratched area appears copper (shiny and all that) so it to me appears just the enamel was scratched, however it does have a copper color between the 2 trace lines (is that normal?).
> 
> much better photo


i would of recommended drilling it out :/ however your pic sucks, only way to find out is to try it, if you see copper that is good, it is when the copper is missing that you have a problem, hopefully you didnt go through several layers of pcb

i would recommend liquid electrical tape / electrical tape/ plastidip the mobo though in that area, as it is so close to a screw

from what i can see just looks like you hit the solder mask, but again that pic sucks


----------



## Cyber Locc

I know it does sorry no dslr







. I took a slightly better one with out the flash not much but a little.



I dont think it was deep and that screw only goes to about as far as the washer. That screw hole is for the heatsink that has the glowing logo right above the pci slots the tracer leads to in between the pci slots closer to the top one though.

I cleaned it with alcohol and from reading other threads coated it with clear nail polish. I think well hope it isn't too deep of a scratch, it was caused from the pliers hitting it while gripping the screw. They are regular flat tipped pliers so are not sharp and I was trying very hard to stay off the board with them while gripping the screw. However for some reason the screw was very very difficult to remove even with pliers, it did seem to have alot more blue on the screw when removed so maybe they put too much loc tight stuff or just over tightened I don't know.

My concern about testing it is how? If I buy a air cooler to test it and put the sinks back this trace leads to the pci lanes from the cpu. so would that also be risking my gpu my cpu and god knows what else.

There is positively a copper line where that trace is, my fear is that there is copper what appears to be the 2 traces I'm less worried about the trace being busted and more worried about the 2 traces became merged.

That all said thanks for the tips mega


----------



## tcclaviger

Black nail polish that ding and move on. If it works it works, if not, buy a new MB, there isn't anything more to be done tbh.


----------



## maybach123

any one know where to plug in an extra 2 pin power led connector (no gap)


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> My Creative sound blaster z has been randomlly acting up through out its life. I wonder if the onbaord audio is better. I use toshlink to audio receiver that has 5.1 speakers. Can do 7.1 but the Soundblaster z can't do that.


I use the onbaord TosLink from my board and I find it to be satisfactory. Though, I am by no means an audiophile, I ended up moving my $90 Sound Blaster Recon3d into my server instead. Just for reference, I have a Harman Karon AVR Receiver and 100W Polk audio speakers.


----------



## reev3r

[
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Sad day boys and girls sad day. I just got a water block for the board because my loop is down and figured why not. So well problem city, When I was (still am) trying to remove the center sink (with the glowing logo) the damn screw stripped and will not for the life of the gods move. So I resulted in the only choice I have I used pliers to try to get the screw off and well beautiful scratch now presents me. Here is a pic of the scratch so what yall think? Is it toast?. I do not have an air cooler to check the boards state ATM guess I will have to buy one now and put the air blocks back on. This really really sucks.
> 
> Here is a pic for now I will see if i can take a better one i don't have a dslr though. The color of the scratched area appears copper (shiny and all that) so it to me appears just the enamel was scratched, however it does have a copper color between the 2 trace lines (is that normal?).
> 
> much better photo


Hey there, it looks fine to me. You just scratched off the conformal coating, I would not have suggested the nail Polish, as I have had bad experiences (read:inconsistent results with conductivity) in the past, so I *always* use Plasti-Dip when coating PCB traces and such. It is not very likely that any traces are bridged, but if you see something I can't in the photo, I would advise using a magnifying glass to inspect more thoroughly if possible. Unfortunately I can't tell in the photograph if that is a single trace or two separate traces, so it might be worth that close inspection...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> any one know where to plug in an extra 2 pin power led connector (no gap)


What do you mean exactly, does your case employ multiple power LED's? There is only a single pair of pins for power LED, so the only way to add an additional LED is to mod your own solution, I ended up molding my case and replacing the blue power LED's for the halo with four white LED's, you'll want to check the power output of the source (voltage) and the forward voltage of the particular LED (usually between 2.8 and 3.6v, blue and white requiring more voltage)... I guess I am getting ahead of myself, is this an LED that is meant for computer use, or just something random you happened upon?


----------



## Dwofzz

Think I managed to brick my whole board or something.. Updated bios to 0801 and everything was succesfull, used the pc for a cupple of houers after I flashed it no problems what so ever. The next time it booted tho It stoped at the ROG logo screen and wen over to a black screen which said " i-ROG 1 is updating ...... " took like 10h and then the pc shut off, I was like ok power it on then and now it stops at 00 on both bioses and the CPU led on the mobo is lith..

What I've done :

Cl_cmos on both bios
Reeflashed the bios using : http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/USB_BIOS_Flashback_GUIDE/
( tryed 0403, 0701, and 0801 agin )
Dismounted the cmos battery

and nothing.. still the same thing " power on pc nothing happens" 00 and cpu led lith on both bioses..

Any suggestions?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Think I managed to brick my whole board or something.. Updated bios to 0801 and everything was succesfull, used the pc for a cupple of houers after I flashed it no problems what so ever. The next time it booted tho It stoped at the ROG logo screen and wen over to a black screen which said " i-ROG 1 is updating ...... " took like 10h and then the pc shut off, I was like ok power it on then and now it stops at 00 on both bioses and the CPU led on the mobo is lith..
> 
> What I've done :
> 
> Cl_cmos on both bios
> Reeflashed the bios using : http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/USB_BIOS_Flashback_GUIDE/
> ( tryed 0403, 0701, and 0801 agin )
> Dismounted the cmos battery
> 
> and nothing.. still the same thing " power on pc nothing happens" 00 and cpu led lith on both bioses..
> 
> Any suggestions?


Only thing to try now is take the computer apart and place the bare bones motherboard on the retail box or some sort for a day to drain all the caps out. Then try the board again tomorrow. If it doesn't work, RMA the board if you still have warranty.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Only thing to try now is take the computer apart and place the bare bones motherboard on the retail box or some sort for a day to drain all the caps out. Then try the board again tomorrow. If it doesn't work, RMA the board if you still have warranty.


Thought so.. I'll just unplug the 24 pin and the power cord and let it rest untill tomorrow, One thing I don't get tho is, why did it brick bios 2 aswell?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

It's best to take it all apart and rest the board all by itself on a box. The mobo is still grounded to the case. Take the cpu out of it's socket.

I've heard that dead mobos come back to life after people taking them out of there systems and forgot about them for a long while, then figured later on to give the mobo a try again, and everything worked like new.

Another thing to try, if it's the bios chips, buy some new ones. There are some on ebay, I just looked.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> It's best to take it all apart and rest the board all by itself on a box. The mobo is still grounded to the case. Take the cpu out of it's socket.
> 
> I've heard that dead mobos come back to life after people taking them out of there systems and forgot about them for a long while, then figured later on to give the mobo a try again, and everything worked like new.
> 
> Another thing to try, if it's the bios chips, buy some new ones. There are some on ebay, I just looked.


apparently the 4960x is dead.. I dont ounderstand a thing right now :/


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> apparently the 4960x is dead.. I dont ounderstand a thing right now :/


Did put the 4960x in another mobo and my 3960x in the RIVBE and the RIVBE starts just fine now, but the DARK x79 with my 4960x does not start and halts on FF which is the same as 00 on the RIVBE.

I just don't even right now


----------



## Madmaxneo

Switch to the secondary BIOS. To do this use the switch between your panel connectors and the two fan connectors.(chassis fan 2 and optional fan 2). If you look on page 1-8 of the book it is number 21.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Switch to the secondary BIOS. To do this use the switch between your panel connectors and the two fan connectors.(chassis fan 2 and optional fan 2). If you look on page 1-8 of the book it is number 21.


No point the cpu is dead, Running my 3960x in the system and it works fine!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> No point the cpu is dead, Running my 3960x in the system and it works fine!


Ok, didn't know that.

When I responded your post was the very last one. I log on now and there is a whole extra page with posts from hours ago.

Sorry to hear that your chip died. But, if it died from it being overclocked or what not you can get it replaced on the Intel Tuning plan. That plan is specifically designed for failure from overclocking amongst other things.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

@Dwofzz

Bummer 00 / FF = Borked chippy .

F.... F..... I could tell you what I think that abbreviation is but I would be in trouble











Now get a replacement if your lucky it will be a better one ...... hopefully your next one will have at least a 2800mhz strong dram IMC


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Ok, didn't know that.
> 
> When I responded your post was the very last one. I log on now and there is a whole extra page with posts from hours ago.
> 
> Sorry to hear that your chip died. But, if it died from it being overclocked or what not you can get it replaced on the Intel Tuning plan. That plan is specifically designed for failure from overclocking amongst other things.


Np, I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> @Dwofzz
> 
> Bummer 00 / FF = Borked chippy .
> 
> F.... F..... I could tell you what I think that abbreviation is but I would be in trouble
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now get a replacement if your lucky it will be a better one ...... hopefully your next one will have at least a 2800mhz strong dram IMC


It's a Borked chippy alright, I just don't get how.. must have ben a " doa" tho it had some life in it before it died anyways


----------



## ckoons1

is there a way to get replacement heatsinks for the RIVBE?
THX


----------



## Cyber Locc

Short Answer NO.

you might find one used on ebay from a user that went under water and didnt want the IO sheild (highly unlikely). So its unlikely but possible, as far as buying them from a store or parts house not that I have found.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> is there a way to get replacement heatsinks for the RIVBE?
> THX


You can try contacting ASUS customer support and see if they can get you one.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> is there a way to get replacement heatsinks for the RIVBE?
> THX


sure is ! buy a new mobo- throw away extra mobo, keep heatsink-

i didnt say it was a good idea !


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sure is ! buy a new mobo- throw away extra mobo, keep heatsink-
> 
> i didnt say it was a good idea !


LMAO!


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> is there a way to get replacement heatsinks for the RIVBE?
> THX


Yeah, unfortunately, as the general consensus has spoken, not any way that is cheap or easy... I almost got one by purchasing a used board that was faulty, but the guy wanted $125 for a Mobo that would not power on/post, or show ANY signs of life, and the shield simply isnt/wasn't worth the asking price for the borked board.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sure is ! buy a new mobo- throw away extra mobo, keep heatsink-
> 
> i didnt say it was a good idea !


I think this is a great idea







.

I was actually kicking myself the other day tbh. I cut off the heat pipe I was going to do it darlenes way and torch it off so it could be reassembled but alas I didn't so now I'm screwed


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

My crazy rig


----------



## xarot

I reinstalled my RIVE BE with Titan X SLI in slots 1&4 and Intel 750 PCIe SSD in bottom slot.

I can see that my Titans are setup in x16/x8 now. I tried PCIe lane simulator in BIOS and I can see the another GPU slot dropping to x8 there too if last slot is occupied. That's how it goes then?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> I reinstalled my RIVE BE with Titan X SLI in slots 1&4 and Intel 750 PCIe SSD in bottom slot.
> 
> I can see that my Titans are setup in x16/x8 now. I tried PCIe lane simulator in BIOS and I can see the another GPU slot dropping to x8 there too if last slot is occupied. That's how it goes then?


Not sure if that's normal, but try the 750 in the second 8x pci-e slot between your titans in sli.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Not sure if that's normal, but try the 750 in the second 8x pci-e slot between your titans in sli.


Sure, I'll have to try tonight. On X99 I had some booting issues when using the second slot on RVE and that's why I installed it in bottom slot.

I really don't know how/why, but my 4960X/RIVE BE & Intel 750 feels much 'snappier' in Windows than my X99 rig.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> I really don't know how/why, but my 4960X/RIVE BE & Intel 750 feels much 'snappier' in Windows than my X99 rig.


Just curious, have you tried the X99 rig with just a single Titan installed, just to see if there is any kind of disparity with the additional Titan?

I read somewhere (in a forum on here) where several people were having the same results with a PCIe SSD installed (a mix of the Samsung 950 and the Intel 750), and a couple found that benchmarks were showing bizarre results where sometimes speeds were cut in half, but he explained that it was not consistent, sometimes he would bench the drive and it would be full speed, and then a while later run the tests again and be seeing regular SSD speeds. That was one guy being specific, but others explained that things just didn't feel as fast. In the end,a couple of them (during random troubleshooting) removed their second SLI card that the performance was consistently as expected. I did some looking for the forum I found but I can not seem to locate it, and it is possible it isn't on here like I thought it was, but I will continue to look for a bit to see if I can locate it...

Please let me know what, if anything, happens when you remove the second card in the rig... Regardless, good luck and hopefully it is just some arbitrary setting that is making the difference.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Just curious, have you tried the X99 rig with just a single Titan installed, just to see if there is any kind of disparity with the additional Titan?
> 
> I read somewhere (in a forum on here) where several people were having the same results with a PCIe SSD installed (a mix of the Samsung 950 and the Intel 750), and a couple found that benchmarks were showing bizarre results where sometimes speeds were cut in half, but he explained that it was not consistent, sometimes he would bench the drive and it would be full speed, and then a while later run the tests again and be seeing regular SSD speeds. That was one guy being specific, but others explained that things just didn't feel as fast. In the end,a couple of them (during random troubleshooting) removed their second SLI card that the performance was consistently as expected. I did some looking for the forum I found but I can not seem to locate it, and it is possible it isn't on here like I thought it was, but I will continue to look for a bit to see if I can locate it...
> 
> Please let me know what, if anything, happens when you remove the second card in the rig... Regardless, good luck and hopefully it is just some arbitrary setting that is making the difference.


No I never tried, also my cards are water-cooled using an EK bridge, so not going to try in the near future...









All tests seem good, I think cache and RAM on X99 play a big role too on how snappy things are on desktop. With 5960X the cache is clocked relatively low out of the box...

I guess the PCIe lane switching from x16 to x8 when slot 6 is populated is normal. If I use PCIe lane simulator for GPUs in BIOS, it can clearly be seen here if slots 1, 4 & 6 are populated then slot 4 drops to x8. I am guessing it is the same no matter what card you put in that slots. Screens:




ATTO on RIVE BE looks OK to me. Specs are 2200 MB/s read/900 MB/s write for Intel 750 400 GB version











The ONLY issue I've had with both setups is that with my Titan Xs sometimes when I restart the PC I am unable to see the POST screen before I am in Windows again. If I press DEL multiple times the PC just hangs there (most probably it actually is in BIOS) until I press ctrl-alt-del to reboot. If I press nothing it goes into Windows. Disabling fast boot and slowing down the POST process doesn't help. Using DisplayPort as output.


----------



## ckoons1

picked up some EK water blocks . problem solved .


----------



## Dwofzz

I get the "b2" error code, the "vga led" lights up red and there's nothing happing on the screen.. I've tried everything I've come to think of but still stopes on b2.. Any suggestions??


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> I get the "b2" error code, the "vga led" lights up red and there's nothing happing on the screen.. I've tried everything I've come to think of but still stopes on b2.. Any suggestions??


Add some vcore , vtt or vscca









Merry Xmas


----------



## Dwofzz

Can't it doesn't even boot ;/
Marry Christmas







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Add some vcore , vtt or vscca
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Merry Xmas


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Reseat ram and or cpu ??


----------



## tcclaviger

VGA LED being the active clue here.... swap out GPU for alternate, unplug everything except cpu/1 ram stick/gpu monitor and keyboard, boot. If no luck, remount CPU check for bent pins in socket, if no bent pins, gpu is verified in another system, and ram is verified in another system, your problem is either cpu or mb, my money's on mb usually, cpu failures are exceedingly rare.


----------



## reev3r

Merry trucking Crapsmas!

I was tinkering with some temperature probes after building my own PWM fan controller, and the motherboard temperature was reporting 118°C, which I chuckled at, because not so much... So I restarted and everything was fine, but then, after letting the rig run for a bit, it just powered off and started back up for MO apparent reason, and now it will power on, but the error code stays at '00', and then within a few seconds it power cycles again... Unfortunately, my spare had to go into my server after the PSU in my server failed, and haven't gotten around to purchasing a replacement, so I can't easily test that, and without a spare Mobo, I can't test much to figure out the issue... Other than the usual remove crap until something changes...

Jeebers I hate this!


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Not sure if that's normal, but try the 750 in the second 8x pci-e slot between your titans in sli.


Tried this today, this seem to have fixed the issue. I hope I don't have bootup problems like I had on RVE. +rep


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am having some issues that I am just starting to notice and would like some help.

First thing is I noticed that whenever I go into my downloads folder it takes a minute to load up completely. I do have a lot of sub folders in that folder with loads of data and programs in it but it should not take that long to load up. My first solution was to get a new SSD (SanDisk Ultra II 480gb) and put that in, so I did. It doesn't seem to be any faster.

I have also noticed that whenever I load a disc into my bluray drive it takes longer than a minute for the auto play to show up, which is ridiculous. I have the ASUS 14x or 16x BluRay drive I got last year.
It also seems that my External 1tb Touro drive is just as quick if not faster than some of my internal drives.
I think that it is my MB SATA controllers.

The odd part is I am running off of Windows 10 and I can boot up cold in less than 30 seconds, averaging about 22 or so. Which is pretty fast despite all the programs that I am running on boot. My boot drive is an 840 pro and I am running samsung magician on that drive.

If it isn't the MB SATA controllers then could it possibly be associated with the issue I am having with my RAM not working in XMP or not being able to OC it at all above the stock defaults? Yes I know I need to pull my CPU out and check the pins and reseat it (I should get to that tonight).

I have also not installed the latest drivers for the MB that someone posted on here a while back, I was wondering if anyone else has installed those drivers and have experienced any problems or not.

Any suggestions in the meantime (and if reseating the CPU doesn't help any) will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I will put the culprit down to W10 .....


----------



## Madmaxneo

Nice set up @HOMECINEMA-PC

It wasn't Windows 10.
Now my BluRay drive picks up discs quickly and I am running my RAM in XMP and it is reading all 4 sticks. All of this because of a tiny little bent pin on the MB cpu connections. So whoever that was who said to look for a bent pin, I greatly appreciate the nudge in the right direction. If I can find the post I will of course give you kudos.

At first I didn't see any bent pins, then when I was moving the light away to look around the MB I noticed an odd reflection and there was the bent pin. I had some trouble getting it back in place because they are so tiny and give so easily. But now all is good.

My downloads folder is still somewhat slow though. It was slow on Windows 8 but I had it on an HDD then. Consequently there is almost 200gb of data in various folders.....


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Thanks mate but its changed a bit since I took that pic eh





The cardboard acts as a cover so the aircon pulls in the chillers exhaust into its intake when the chiller is running .......


----------



## Madmaxneo

Interesting. It looks like something from the 80's Ghost Busters!!


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Thanks mate but its changed a bit since I took that pic eh
> ...
> The cardboard acts as a cover so the aircon pulls in the chillers exhaust into its intake when the chiller is running .......


Damn HCP, how are far back did your time machine take you? (I doff my cap in respect to you sir







)


----------



## Madmaxneo

For those that do not know or have forgotten, I have a sub par 4930k that is not stable at 4.4ghz no matter what I have tried so far, but it is perfectly stable at 4.3ghz at 1.38vcore.

I attempted to hit 4.4ghz again today with my 4930k. I was able to maintain about 20 mins on OCCT before it crashed. I have a couple questions though before I order the Xeon E5-2640 2.5GHz cpu as a temporary replacement while I await for my 4930k to be tested and replaced.

I had set my vcore to 1.4v but I was reading that sometimes setting both the "VTT cpu voltage" and the "2 VTT cpu voltage" can be offer a more stable system.

1. Should I set my vcore to auto and my change my VTT cpu voltage settings to something like 1.4v and work back from there?

2. What about running a higher base clock and changing the PCH 1.1v switching freq to something else to hopefully get a higher more stable OC?

Any last minute suggestions to try and attempt this again before I spend the money on the 2640 to get my 4930k replaced would be greatly appreciated.

I would rather not have to purchase the xeon as it will set me back a great deal on attempting to save up for the Acer XB24 monitor......

Thanks in advance!


----------



## xarot

You could try E5-2609 v2, seems to go for quite cheap on eBay? It is supported on RIVE BE as per ASUS site. Also even if you only get 4.3 GHz out of your CPU, 4.4 or 4.5 GHz really won't make much difference in games etc...of course I know that you are not happy, but the CPU is very fast at 4.3 GHz already. Especially if you only use one VGA.

I just went back from X99 to my X79 RIVE BE rig for a change and dialed in my previous overclock. Now that I remember the settings I may post them here...

i7-4960X
RIVE BE (obviously?)
Corsair Dominator-GT 4x8 GB kit 1866 MHz CL 9-10-9 1.5 V

x45 multiplier
+0.060 Vcore (=1.376 V under max. load)
VTT 1.1 V
VCCSA 1.000 V
CPU PLL 1.800 V
Internal PLL Overvoltage Disabled
CPU Current Capability 180 %
CPU Load-Line Calibration High

Tested LinX 0.6.5 with around 30 GB RAM used for a little bit over 2 hours, and Prime95 28.5 for two hours, seems very stable. I can run 4.4 GHz at around 1.27 - 1.3 V as the 4.5 GHz requires quite an increase in Vcore and it's starting to be at edge of stability. I don't ever have time to run it longer than that these days.

Now that I played around with my chip, I was able to boot into Windows and run some tests at 4.75 GHz using 125 strap and 1.44 Vcore, not stable at all though. Should be an indication though that the CPU is not a completely miserable case...

The only issues I've had now with my RIVE BE rig are that sometimes I am unable to see the POST screen upon soft restart and only in Windows but this issue was on X99 too. Maybe it's an issue with the Titan X BIOS or something. Another issue is that I had been using my USB keyboard and mouse through my display's USB hub and sometimes the keyboard just stops working. Might be a compatibility issue with the USB 3 hub and my ancient wireless keyboard, but who knows. I am currently trying to work around this issue by connecting the keyboard and mouse directly into USB2.0 ports in back of the motherboard and so far, so good. On the other hand I am forced to use extension cables for both so another point of failure there.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> You could try E5-2609 v2, seems to go for quite cheap on eBay? It is supported on RIVE BE as per ASUS site. Also even if you only get 4.3 GHz out of your CPU, 4.4 or 4.5 GHz really won't make much difference in games etc...of course I know that you are not happy, but the CPU is very fast at 4.3 GHz already. Especially if you only use one VGA.
> 
> I just went back from X99 to my X79 RIVE BE rig for a change and dialed in my previous overclock. Now that I remember the settings I may post them here...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> i7-4960X
> RIVE BE (obviously?)
> Corsair Dominator-GT 4x8 GB kit 1866 MHz CL 9-10-9 1.5 V
> 
> x45 multiplier
> +0.060 Vcore (=1.376 V under max. load)
> VTT 1.1 V
> VCCSA 1.000 V
> CPU PLL 1.800 V
> Internal PLL Overvoltage Disabled
> CPU Current Capability 180 %
> CPU Load-Line Calibration High
> 
> 
> 
> Tested LinX 0.6.5 with around 30 GB RAM used for a little bit over 2 hours, and Prime95 28.5 for two hours, seems very stable. I can run 4.4 GHz at around 1.27 - 1.3 V as the 4.5 GHz requires quite an increase in Vcore and it's starting to be at edge of stability. I don't ever have time to run it longer than that these days.
> 
> Now that I played around with my chip, I was able to boot into Windows and run some tests at 4.75 GHz using 125 strap and 1.44 Vcore, not stable at all though. Should be an indication though that the CPU is not a completely miserable case...
> 
> The only issues I've had now with my RIVE BE rig are that sometimes I am unable to see the POST screen upon soft restart and only in Windows but this issue was on X99 too. Maybe it's an issue with the Titan X BIOS or something. Another issue is that I had been using my USB keyboard and mouse through my display's USB hub and sometimes the keyboard just stops working. Might be a compatibility issue with the USB 3 hub and my ancient wireless keyboard, but who knows. I am currently trying to work around this issue by connecting the keyboard and mouse directly into USB2.0 ports in back of the motherboard and so far, so good. On the other hand I am forced to use extension cables for both so another point of failure there.


I get to trying those settings tomorrow.

FYI, I also have an issue with my USB 3.0 ports on my RIVBE. I have a few peripherals (2 Logitech devices, a G13 and an F710) that do not work on boot up with USB 3.0. They work fine in 2.0. After a restart if I unplug then re-plug the USB cables into the 3.0 ports they work fine, nothing else works even going into device manager.

Also every once in a while with a Windows 10 update restart I have an issue where my keyboard and mouse do not start up with windows. It takes 2 hard reboots before they start up and then all is fine. I will let you know if your settings work good for me... You forgot to mention disabling both the CPU and PCIe spread spectrum. My first attempts at OCing were failures because I did not disable those two settings...lol.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You forgot to mention disabling both the CPU and PCIe spread spectrum. My first attempts at OCing were failures because I did not disable those two settings...lol.


Well, I don't think I actually disabled those. On many platforms I have done that but not in the last few years of so. Worth a try though, but I don't think my CPU flies any further with them disabled..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Well, I don't think I actually disabled those. On many platforms I have done that but not in the last few years of so. Worth a try though, but I don't think my CPU flies any further with them disabled..


In my experience and from what I have been told along with the actual guide on the ROG forums, it is highly recommended to disable those. I couldn't OC at all without them disabled. In fact I have been led to believe you can't OC without them disabled. Double check and make sure as it would seem odd that you can OC and especially reach the clock you did with them enabled.

Edit: I attempted your settings and it was a no go for me. Not that I expected anything but one never knows.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> In my experience and from what I have been told along with the actual guide on the ROG forums, it is highly recommended to disable those. I couldn't OC at all without them disabled. In fact I have been led to believe you can't OC without them disabled. Double check and make sure as it would seem odd that you can OC and especially reach the clock you did with them enabled.
> 
> Edit: I attempted your settings and it was a no go for me. Not that I expected anything but one never knows.


All of the spectrums are set to AUTO.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> All of the spectrums are set to AUTO.


That is odd. Of course it may depend on the actual CPU. I have a 4930k and you are working with either a 5960X or a 3970X, maybe that is why.


----------



## chrisnyc75

There's no hard & fast rule that you "can't" overclock with spread spectrum enabled, it's just one more setting that complicates an overclock and adds unnecessary (and usually unwanted) uncertainty to the mix. Spread Spectrum, as I understand it, deliberately oscillates the current around a baseline average. Under certain circumstances, I guess this can be beneficial to a base clocked chip, but in an overclocking scenario where you're trying to push the chip's performance as far as possible with the least electricity necessary, the last thing you want is for the current to deliberately behave randomly. If you tell the mobo to give the cpu 1.35v with High LLC, the last thing you want is for spread spectrum to jump into the mix and start varying that current up and down from where you set it.

Which isn't to say you "can't" do it, just that it's not recommended. But like everything, I'm sure there's somebody out there who has found a way to overclock based entirely on Spread Spectrum. lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> There's no hard & fast rule that you "can't" overclock with spread spectrum enabled, it's just one more setting that complicates an overclock and adds unnecessary (and usually unwanted) uncertainty to the mix. Spread Spectrum, as I understand it, deliberately oscillates the current around a baseline average. Under certain circumstances, I guess this can be beneficial to a base clocked chip, but in an overclocking scenario where you're trying to push the chip's performance as far as possible with the least electricity necessary, the last thing you want is for the current to deliberately behave randomly. If you tell the mobo to give the cpu 1.35v with High LLC, the last thing you want is for spread spectrum to jump into the mix and start varying that current up and down from where you set it.
> 
> Which isn't to say you "can't" do it, just that it's not recommended. But like everything, I'm sure there's somebody out there who has found a way to overclock based entirely on Spread Spectrum. lol


Interesting to know. I think I was able to hit maybe 3.9ghz OC (non turbo) with this chip and spread spectrum enabled.
It is a bad chip. I was just hoping to avoid spending the $140 on this E2640. But no matter how hard I try I can't avoid it............


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That is odd. Of course it may depend on the actual CPU. I have a 4930k and you are working with either a 5960X or a 3970X, maybe that is why.


Currently on my 4960X with settings I posted above...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Currently on my 4960X with settings I posted above...


Temps are high what are you using for cooling??? My 4960 @ 4.7 loaded high temps are in the low 50's. Water cooled


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Temps are high what are you using for cooling??? My 4960 @ 4.7 loaded high temps are in the low 50's. Water cooled


Water. In LinX 0.6.5 too?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Water. In LinX 0.6.5 too?


No windows user here!


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> No windows user here!


OK...then it is not relevant to compare temps.







In most tasks temps are 50-60c max.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> OK...then it is not relevant to compare temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In most tasks temps are 50-60c max.


Maybe not but i was running prime 95 fully loaded and stress testing and that temp was after 3 hours. I dont see why one OS would make the cpu hotter but maybe so.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> For those that do not know or have forgotten, I have a sub par 4930k that is not stable at 4.4ghz no matter what I have tried so far, but it is perfectly stable at 4.3ghz at 1.38vcore.
> 
> I attempted to hit 4.4ghz again today with my 4930k. I was able to maintain about 20 mins on OCCT before it crashed. I have a couple questions though before I order the Xeon E5-2640 2.5GHz cpu as a temporary replacement while I await for my 4930k to be tested and replaced.
> 
> I had set my vcore to 1.4v but I was reading that sometimes setting both the "VTT cpu voltage" and the "2 VTT cpu voltage" can be offer a more stable system.
> 
> 1. Should I set my vcore to auto and my change my VTT cpu voltage settings to something like 1.4v and work back from there?
> 
> 2. What about running a higher base clock and changing the PCH 1.1v switching freq to something else to hopefully get a higher more stable OC?
> 
> Any last minute suggestions to try and attempt this again before I spend the money on the 2640 to get my 4930k replaced would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> I would rather not have to purchase the xeon as it will set me back a great deal on attempting to save up for the Acer XB24 monitor......
> 
> Thanks in advance!


as always we need bios screens to help you,


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as always we need bios screens to help you,


What you want pics of my entire bios? That would be quite a few pics.....regardless I am not sure how the bios screen shots would help. I had some questions about those particular settings but everything else is set as has been recommended by others. But my E- 2640 is on the way.

Is the E 2640 able to be overclocked?


----------



## Madmaxneo

I may have goofed. I ordered my E 2640 cpu but there is a possibility that it may not work on my MB. I know the E 2640 V2 will work but I think the chip I ordered is the V1 version because it lists the base speed as 2.5ghz and the V2 version is only 2.1ghz. I have read that the V1 version will not work but it is listed on the sellers page as working with all socket 2011 MB's. So has anyone had any experience with this chip? Will it work with the RIVBE or not?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> You could try E5-2609 v2, seems to go for quite cheap on eBay?


I will probably be getting this chip now that I realized I ordered the wrong version of the CPU. One question though regarding this chip; Is it possible to OC the 2609 V2? I know the chip is locked but I have heard that you can OC locked chips. Anyone have any experience with this chip or other locked chips on the RIVBE?
Yes this is a temporary chip for my system but I would like to get at least 3.0ghz out of this chip as I have some games that require at least 3.0ghz (some more than that).


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I will probably be getting this chip now that I realized I ordered the wrong version of the CPU. One question though regarding this chip; Is it possible to OC the 2609 V2? I know the chip is locked but I have heard that you can OC locked chips. Anyone have any experience with this chip or other locked chips on the RIVBE?
> Yes this is a temporary chip for my system but I would like to get at least 3.0ghz out of this chip as I have some games that require at least 3.0ghz (some more than that).


You could try to OC via strap however I'm not sure how well thats going to work out but its worth a shot.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> You could try to OC via strap however I'm not sure how well thats going to work out but its worth a shot.


Shortly after posting that question I found the Xeon owners club and basically posted the same question in there. It seems there are plenty of Xeon processors that they OC and hopefully they can give some pointers.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Shortly after posting that question I found the Xeon owners club and basically posted the same question in there. It seems there are plenty of Xeon processors that they OC and hopefully they can give some pointers.


Yep they should be able too







. Your lucky as your on a RIVBE not all X79 boards offer strap OCing and no mainstream ones do







and thats the only OC your getting.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

26xx series are locked. Will only be able to OC via bclk.

Some 16xx chips are unlocked fully like my 1680 V2.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I will probably be getting this chip now that I realized I ordered the wrong version of the CPU. One question though regarding this chip; Is it possible to OC the 2609 V2? I know the chip is locked but I have heard that you can OC locked chips. Anyone have any experience with this chip or other locked chips on the RIVBE?
> Yes this is a temporary chip for my system but I would like to get at least 3.0ghz out of this chip as I have some games that require at least 3.0ghz (some more than that).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I may have goofed. I ordered my E 2640 cpu but there is a possibility that it may not work on my MB. I know the E 2640 V2 will work but I think the chip I ordered is the V1 version because it lists the base speed as 2.5ghz and the V2 version is only 2.1ghz. I have read that the V1 version will not work but it is listed on the sellers page as working with all socket 2011 MB's. So has anyone had any experience with this chip? Will it work with the RIVBE or not?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I don't think any game 'requires' a specific clock speed as 3.0 GHz only means nothing, it's the architecture too that defines speed. You could say that you need P4 3 GHz and wouldn't work on Haswell 2 GHz then.







Of course if you meant that the game becomes quite unplayable without enough CPU clockspeed then it's another case.

I would guess E5 2640 "V1" is the "Sandy Bridge" version of that chip and I cannot see it wouldn't work, but hard to say. V2 = "Ivy Bridge" and V3 would be "Haswell" (2011-3 for that).


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> I don't think any game 'requires' a specific clock speed as 3.0 GHz only means nothing, it's the architecture too that defines speed. You could say that you need P4 3 GHz and wouldn't work on Haswell 2 GHz then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course if you meant that the game becomes quite unplayable without enough CPU clockspeed then it's another case.
> 
> I would guess E5 2640 "V1" is the "Sandy Bridge" version of that chip and I cannot see it wouldn't work, but hard to say. V2 = "Ivy Bridge" and V3 would be "Haswell" (2011-3 for that).


I don't remember the game at this time but I have one that had requirements of an i7 3ghz. I have at least 4 games that require an i7 (no ghz requirement) but after looking at the specs this 2609 Xeon should work fine for those games.

I already ordered this 2609 and it only cost me $95 with shipping and all! Much less than anywhere else. This is the first time ordering from this place so hopefully it will be a good experience.


----------



## seross69

Has anyone used the Intel 750 series SSD's on this board and if so were their any problems getting them to work and what was your performance on them?

Thinking of getting one to use as a storage and program drive


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Has anyone used the Intel 750 series SSD's on this board and if so were their any problems getting them to work and what was your performance on them?
> 
> Thinking of getting one to use as a storage and program drive


Yes, some pages back for some info:

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/12890#post_24517744*


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Yes, some pages back for some info:
> 
> *http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/12890#post_24517744*


thanks a lot for this MrTOOSHORT!!!!!


----------



## deafboy

Mine's a bit slower but works beautifully so no complaints, lol.


----------



## reev3r

Well poopshoot doodlesuck! My motherboard started dying recently and I thought it was software. It kept restarting randomly for no reason, just while it was sitting there not being used.

Finally, the other week I went to use it and powered it on to have it just restart within a few seconds, so I checked the post code and it just stayed at '00' during the fail. I tried resetting the BIOS, as well as trying the 2nd BIOS, but nothing. I have tried every possible thing that could resolve the issue, all to no avail.

So once I felt well enough (I ended up back in the hospital again for a couple of blood transfusions with my kidneys failing), I called Asus and requested an Advance-RMA, and to my surprise I was informed that not all motherboards qualify for an Advance-RMA. I asked why that is and the representative explained that he doesn't know the criteria, and that they just receive a list of approved motherboards... Anybody have any additional information regarding that? I've been RMA'ing motherboards for the better part of 17 years and never knew about this...

Also, a good thing I didn't expect, in the past I have had to secure the Advance-RMA with a credit card, in the past it has been between $75-$100, my most recent one was an EVGA P67 SLI Micro board and they required $100, and before that was an Asus P8P67 Pro and Asus required $75, so I was stunned when he told me he needed to check if my board both qualified for A-RMA and how much would need to be secured, and then came back and told me that it was approved, but then never required any card to secure a deposit... It had crossed my mind that I have been dealing with them for so long, and have been so reliable, that perhaps I no longer am required to secure it... I also considered that since this is a premium board that perhaps that is the reason for not requiring it, but that didn't really make a ton of sense to me. Not sure...

I know that you (@Madmaxneo) recently chose RMA your board, and maybe you can shed some light on whether or not you needed to secure a deposit for your Advance-RMA as well... Feel free to private message me if you would rather not discuss it in the forum. 

So, I will be receiving my replacement board here in the coming days, hopefully tomorrow, but I really doubt it, and then comes the arduous task of disassembling my rig, pulling off my EK monoblock, and then putting all of the sinks and thinks back on the board... Not even remotely excited, more like 'suckscited!'... lol

I do hope that everyone had a splendid set of holidays, and got some fandiddlytastik electronic goodies and other happiness for the holidays...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Well poopshoot doodlesuck! My motherboard started dying recently and I thought it was software. It kept restarting randomly for no reason, just while it was sitting there not being used.
> 
> I know that you (@Madmaxneo) recently chose RMA your board, and maybe you can shed some light on whether or not you needed to secure a deposit for your Advance-RMA as well... Feel free to private message me if you would rather not discuss it in the forum.


That completely sucks! I dread my MB crapping out and having to take everything out and replace it all.

When went for the advance RMA it was done through email and there was a price quote of $499 for the advance RMA. Which made me think I would have to live with my issues because I do not have that kind of money to even put in standby. Fortunately the MB did not need to be replaced. On the advice of a member of this forum (I gave him kudos but forget who it was now) I checked for bent pins under the CPU and there was one. I fixed it and all is up and running like it was before.

Now I am having issues with getting a temporary replacement CPU. First I ordered an incompatible 2640, that has been sent back and I am awaiting the money to come back in. Second I found an E-2609 for less than $100 (brand new) but the company (PCRush) sent me a completely wrong part, it was a DVD drive for a laptop. So now I am awaiting their email. But that hasn't come in 3 days so I am going to go through paypal. I already talked to Paypal about it they are ready to start the ticket.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Board or cpu that gone bad?

Don't rule out the cpu.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That completely sucks! I dread my MB crapping out and having to take everything out and replace it all.
> 
> When went for the advance RMA it was done through email and there was a price quote of $499 for the advance RMA. Which made me think I would have to live with my issues because I do not have that kind of money to even put in standby. Fortunately the MB did not need to be replaced. On the advice of a member of this forum (I gave him kudos but forget who it was now) I checked for bent pins under the CPU and there was one. I fixed it and all is up and running like it was before.
> 
> Now I am having issues with getting a temporary replacement CPU. First I ordered an incompatible 2640, that has been sent back and I am awaiting the money to come back in. Second I found an E-2609 for less than $100 (brand new) but the company (PCRush) sent me a completely wrong part, it was a DVD drive for a laptop. So now I am awaiting their email. But that hasn't come in 3 days so I am going to go through paypal. I already talked to Paypal about it they are ready to start the ticket.


Jeezerbles! They wanted to secure it with a $500 payment!?!? That is ridiculous and stupid, also not reasonable or acceptable!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Board or cpu that gone bad?
> 
> Don't rule out the cpu.


Well, although I do never rule out any component, I can't help but face that, given the past issues I have had with this board, it is well guaranteed to be the board. Also, when you include the particular way in which the system failed, it also points to the board... Alof that on top of the way it had already failed in nearly this identical manner when I had the previous XSPC motherboard blocks installed, once I removed the VRM block and replaced the hearsink it all went back to good, in addition, when I installed the EK monoblock, it too resolved the issue...

Unfortunately, with no way to test either component I can not say with certainty that it is the motherboard, but in the past ~fifteen years of troubleshooting I have never, even once had a CPU fail on me... Even when I had thought it was the CPU and had RMA'd it, it turned out that the CPU was fine, and the board was the problem...

So yeah, out of probably around 125 rigs I have built in the last eight years (since late 2007) not one of those had a bad CPU, I had six boards, two graphics cards, a set of RAM, seventeen Seagate hard drives ( not including my own Seagate drives that have failed - I'll never buy another Seagate drive again - EVAR!!!), no SSD's, HGST drives, no WD drives, three PSU's, one keyboard, no mice, one dead monitor and two with a lot of dead/stuck pixels, one bad UPS (out of eleven), and some faulty fans...
Anyhow, that is just my experience with failed components in the last years (Although I've been building computers for over 17 years no, I didn't really keep track of failed components until late 2007, I've built over 500 computers since I started doing it, most of them between 1999 and 2007, before the economy tanked), and I am sure that CPU's fail regularly, I've just been fortunate enough that it hasn't happened to me...


----------



## Cyber Locc

Okay guys an update on board being scracthed, I think its okay. I just hooked it up to a loop and powered it on and windows kept throwing errors. However before I stripped the rig down I litteraly just installed windows 10, this is pretty much the first time I ever used windows 10. The errors were OC related, I got into bios and ran default settings and it works now. I am typing on it now time to redo my overclock and see whats up.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I don't remember the game at this time but I have one that had requirements of an i7 3ghz. I have at least 4 games that require an i7 (no ghz requirement) but after looking at the specs this 2609 Xeon should work fine for those games.
> 
> I already ordered this 2609 and it only cost me $95 with shipping and all! Much less than anywhere else. This is the first time ordering from this place so hopefully it will be a good experience.


Hey, I just went to the link you provided for the 2609,and it brings me to a page with (probably) the DVD writer you received... Seems that the item and page information do not match... Always check the URL to make sure that the item description (if there) matches the item you are looking for and is pictured...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Hey, I just went to the link you provided for the 2609,and it brings me to a page with (probably) the DVD writer you received... Seems that the item and page information do not match... Always check the URL to make sure that the item description (if there) matches the item you are looking for and is pictured...


I ordered it from that page and originally it listed the Xeon chip. Since I am getting a refund for that purchase they have corrected their webpage.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I ordered it from that page and originally it listed the Xeon chip. Since I am getting a refund for that purchase they have corrected their webpage.


It's funny because if you look at the URL it still lists the CPU. lol

Did you happen to check the last messages I sent to you?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I would be spewing if I received a dvd drive instead of a Xeon ............


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I would be spewing if I received a dvd drive instead of a Xeon ............


Taking down that bitter cup... lol


----------



## Mega Man

but.... it is a very fast and stable dvd player !


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> but.... it is a very fast and stable dvd player !


Yeah, oddly enough I have an old Dell Inspiron 9200 that needs a new dvd drive and that would fit....lol.

So it seems I can't get a good deal on a at least a quad core CPU to stand in for my 4930k while it gets replaced. I need one for around $100 maybe $150 and I thought I had hit the sweet spot with that deal.

.........


----------



## Raghar

Folks can you post round trip latency DRAM IO/L and other stuff when RAM timings on your board is on auto, for these RAM frequencies: 1333, 1600, 1866, (2000)? Basically run memTweakIt, and post screenshot of timings number 3. (You might do 1.25 strap as well, but I'd guess they are the same.)

I seen something weird, and considering my long term problems with board, I wanna to check something. (Actually I asked about that Asus support year and half ago and they replied they don't support linux.)


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have gone back to using the onboard RealTek sound for now as my Sound Blaster card has been removed from the system until Creative Labs can fix the sound issues they have been having. I have a few questions about the onboard sound.
1. Where is the RealTek control panel that used to sit in the systray? I even went and loaded up the MB disc and the only thing I could find were the drivers. I installed them but still no software...
2. Can you change the DAC's on this MB? I think I can but am not sure, I remember reading about it somewhere.
3. If I can change the DAC's where can I get some and what might be a good set to get for this MB?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have gone back to using the onboard RealTek sound for now as my Sound Blaster card has been removed from the system until Creative Labs can fix the sound issues they have been having. I have a few questions about the onboard sound.
> 1. Where is the RealTek control panel that used to sit in the systray? I even went and loaded up the MB disc and the only thing I could find were the drivers. I installed them but still no software...
> 2. Can you change the DAC's on this MB? I think I can but am not sure, I remember reading about it somewhere.
> 3. If I can change the DAC's where can I get some and what might be a good set to get for this MB?


Installing the drivers does install the sound manager software, that's how Realtek drivers work - it's all wrapped up in one.

Not sure about the DAC.... I think the board has one built in, but I'm not sure it's swappable.

FYI, you can use Creative's MB3 software to control the Realtek hardware and unlock most of the X-Fi functionality on the Realtek chip.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Installing the drivers does install the sound manager software, that's how Realtek drivers work - it's all wrapped up in one.
> 
> Not sure about the DAC.... I think the board has one built in, but I'm not sure it's swappable.
> 
> FYI, you can use Creative's MB3 software to control the Realtek hardware and unlock most of the X-Fi functionality on the Realtek chip.


FYI, the issues I have with my SB card are software oriented, so who's to say that program doesn't also have sound problems. I am not willing to dish out $30 for a program that may or may not work correctly.

I'm just about done with the Sound Blaster series. It seems that since I had the card sound issues keep popping up every so often.

Back in the late 90's, I went with a Turtle Beach card because it was cheaper and had more features than the comparable SB card. That card was awesome.
Unfortunately I am not up on recent sound card vendors. W

Who makes a good sound card comparable to the Sound Blaster Zx card? It has to have optical out with at least support for 5.1 dolby....... Less expensive would be awesome also. I paid like $65 originally for this card though nowadays I think it runs closer to $100.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> FYI, the issues I have with my SB card are software oriented, so who's to say that program doesn't also have sound problems. I am not willing to dish out $30 for a program that may or may not work correctly.
> 
> I'm just about done with the Sound Blaster series. It seems that since I had the card sound issues keep popping up every so often.
> 
> Back in the late 90's, I went with a Turtle Beach card because it was cheaper and had more features than the comparable SB card. That card was awesome.
> Unfortunately I am not up on recent sound card vendors. W
> 
> Who makes a good sound card comparable to the Sound Blaster Zx card? It has to have optical out with at least support for 5.1 dolby....... Less expensive would be awesome also. I paid like $65 originally for this card though nowadays I think it runs closer to $100.


Honestly going to be the bad news bear here







. "Who makes a good sound card comparable to the Sound Blaster Zx card" No one sound cards are no longer what they use to be. Years ago on board sound sucked and buying a sound card improved your audio quality, however things have changed the RIVBEs stock sound card is better than your sound blaster, if you are not prepared to shell out over 200 you are not going to get a sound card that will show any benefit (even then it will be hard).

Company's dont make sound cards anymore, they cant compete with the on board. If you want better audio look at a USB external DAC, even better a full stack, this is going to cost a lot more than 100 dollars but 100 dollar sound cards are literally just throwing money away.

Then of course comes the question of being worth the cost? Is it worth it for a DAC which will cost a whole lot. It can be if you are an audiophile and have good headphones (or stereo) that its pushing however I checked your Sig and you dont. You are buying into gimmicks, if you want good audio buy some good cans, or a high end stereo (IE not PC speakers because they all suck, defiantly not going to cost 300 dollars).

With your speakers you wont tell a difference between your RIVBE onboard or a 2k DAC.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Honestly going to be the bad news bear here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . "Who makes a good sound card comparable to the Sound Blaster Zx card" No one sound cards are no longer what they use to be. Years ago on board sound sucked and buying a sound card improved your audio quality, however things have changed the RIVBEs stock sound card is better than your sound blaster, if you are not prepared to shell out over 200 you are not going to get a sound card that will show any benefit (even then it will be hard).
> 
> Company's dont make sound cards anymore, they cant compete with the on board. If you want better audio look at a USB external DAC, even better a full stack, this is going to cost a lot more than 100 dollars but 100 dollar sound cards are literally just throwing money away.
> 
> Then of course comes the question of being worth the cost? Is it worth it for a DAC which will cost a whole lot. It can be if you are an audiophile and have good headphones (or stereo) that its pushing however I checked your Sig and you dont. You are buying into gimmicks, if you want good audio buy some good cans, or a high end stereo (IE not PC speakers because they all suck, defiantly not going to cost 300 dollars).
> 
> With your speakers you wont tell a difference between your RIVBE onboard or a 2k DAC.


Actually my Sound Blaster Zx card is much better than the onboard sound (when it is working correctly). Adding to that is all the extra cinematic effects I can use through my Zx sound card.

Would anyone here know if the ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 comparable to the Zx card?


----------



## Raghar

What sound issues? My SB-Z is working, just NOT UNDER LINUX. They are unable to copy technical documentation and allow Linux developers to make drivers.

Also yes onboard sound is worse than SB-Z, which is worse by 1/10 than Burr-Brown. (But SB-Z has better strings. Burn-Brown has softer sound.) I think to have optical in and out is completely necessary.

BTW onboard sound works under Linux.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> What sound issues? My SB-Z is working, just NOT UNDER LINUX. They are unable to copy technical documentation and allow Linux developers to make drivers.
> 
> Also yes onboard sound is worse than SB-Z, which is worse by 1/10 than Burr-Brown. (But SB-Z has better strings. Burn-Brown has softer sound.) I think to have optical in and out is completely necessary.
> 
> BTW onboard sound works under Linux.


If you read back some I have a pop/crack sound that is associated with the enhanced features (aka encoder options) of the card. Windows wants to shut down the enhanced features because it is causing problems. Creative tech support is supposedly working on the problem. I am not the only one who is having problems with Sound Blaster sound cards. I have windows 10 and there are others with issues that are under earlier versions of windows. My onboard sound works fine in windows 10 but it is not as good as the Zx card sound.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Can the Wifi onboard the RIVBE cause sound issues like I am having. I have it enabled but I have not used it in awhile and the creative tech recommended I turn that off along with lowering my bit depth from 24 bit to 16bit. But the issue is my setting have always been set this way and it was not until about a month or so ago that this pop/crack showed up.

If doing those things solve my problem then is it still safe to say that it is a driver or software issue?

Edit: It most definitely is not my wifi. I have a big update as I think my latest windows update will not allow me to use the advanced features of the software. If you would like to see more and maybe offer some advice look to this thread here on the OC forums.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Folks can you post round trip latency DRAM IO/L and other stuff when RAM timings on your board is on auto, for these RAM frequencies: 1333, 1600, 1866, (2000)? Basically run memTweakIt, and post screenshot of timings number 3. (You might do 1.25 strap as well, but I'd guess they are the same.)
> 
> I seen something weird, and considering my long term problems with board, I wanna to check something. (Actually I asked about that Asus support year and half ago and they replied they don't support linux.)


I asked today this question in live chat on Asus support page. The person who did support was in shock and recommended me to write an official question through standard form.

Scary stuff.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Can the Wifi onboard the RIVBE cause sound issues like I am having. I have it enabled but I have not used it in awhile and the creative tech recommended I turn that off along with lowering my bit depth from 24 bit to 16bit. But the issue is my setting have always been set this way and it was not until about a month or so ago that this pop/crack showed up.
> 
> If doing those things solve my problem then is it still safe to say that it is a driver or software issue?
> 
> Edit: It most definitely is not my wifi. I have a big update as I think my latest windows update will not allow me to use the advanced features of the software. If you would like to see more and maybe offer some advice look to this thread here on the OC forums.


I've had crackling/popping problems with my x-fi pcie card in the past when the card was either physically too close to another component (namely, adjacent to a gpu), and also when it shares a pcie lane with a gpu. For example, if I put my x-fi card in the bottom slot, meaning it shares lanes with the secondary gpu in slot 3, for some reason the gpu pcie causes conflicts with the pcie lanes diverted to the soundcard in the bottom slot.

I haven't read back too far in this thread, so I'm not sure if this is the exact problem you're having, but fwiw I've had zero issues since I put my x-fi in the slot BETWEEN the gpu's so that it's not sharing lanes with either one and has its own dedicated lane assignment.

p.s. you can never depend on any solution Creative "support" suggests, their canned scripted responses might be useful for the average 98% pc-illiterate public, but they can rarely offer useful support to those of us who know what we're doing. We usually know a lot more than they do, and they're not adequately prepared to provide probing service.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I've had crackling/popping problems with my x-fi pcie card in the past when the card was either physically too close to another component (namely, adjacent to a gpu), and also when it shares a pcie lane with a gpu. For example, if I put my x-fi card in the bottom slot, meaning it shares lanes with the secondary gpu in slot 3, for some reason the gpu pcie causes conflicts with the pcie lanes diverted to the soundcard in the bottom slot.
> 
> I haven't read back too far in this thread, so I'm not sure if this is the exact problem you're having, but fwiw I've had zero issues since I put my x-fi in the slot BETWEEN the gpu's so that it's not sharing lanes with either one and has its own dedicated lane assignment.
> 
> p.s. you can never depend on any solution Creative "support" suggests, their canned scripted responses might be useful for the average 98% pc-illiterate public, but they can rarely offer useful support to those of us who know what we're doing. We usually know a lot more than they do, and they're not adequately prepared to provide probing service.


I know Creative support is not that good. But I am trying all avenues to hopefully find a way to get my card working again. If you didn't go to the thread I gave a link to a thread where I explain my situation has changed. Now it seems, as of my last update windows has automatically shut off the advanced features so that whenever I try to use them I get no sound from my PC and I get errors whenever I try playing audio files. Here is the link to the post again if you want more info.


----------



## Starbomba

Well, after quite a while, my RIVBE is back into the field. My 2670 is chugging quite nicely.

I just have one question, it seems some RAM slots are not working (the two at the right of the Power button, C1 and C2). I can run triple channel with no issues with 6 sticks, but nothing i do short of remounting the CPU has worked. And yes, the RAM sticks work. Is there any way to test if these RAM sockets have been damaged somehow?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba*
> 
> Well, after quite a while, my RIVBE is back into the field. My 2670 is chugging quite nicely.
> 
> I just have one question, it seems some RAM slots are not working (the two at the right of the Power button, C1 and C2). I can run triple channel with no issues with 6 sticks, but nothing i do short of remounting the CPU has worked. And yes, the RAM sticks work. Is there any way to test if these RAM sockets have been damaged somehow?


Tell me about that, it seems my 2 year old problems are caused by slot C1. Now I'm running "triple-channel" and screaming murder because I bought faster sticks because I thought the have slight incompatibility. Next week I'd try to get some reply from Asus support, and meanwhile someone would be nice and write there these DRAM IO L numbers. (Located in tab 3 in MemTweakIt.)

I actually think C2 slot is fine, but of course it will not boot when you populate only A2 B2 C2 D2 slots.

You can place a stick into C1 slot, and try to test it by RAM checker at boot. But some problem happens ONLY when you run full quad channel.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba*
> 
> Well, after quite a while, my RIVBE is back into the field. My 2670 is chugging quite nicely.
> 
> I just have one question, it seems some RAM slots are not working (the two at the right of the Power button, C1 and C2). I can run triple channel with no issues with 6 sticks, but nothing i do short of remounting the CPU has worked. And yes, the RAM sticks work. Is there any way to test if these RAM sockets have been damaged somehow?


First let me start with I am no expert and I could be completely wrong in this as this is my best "guess" or hypothesis.
That being said: It could be that the system will only run in triple channel because you have 6 sticks of RAM, where 6 is only divisible by 3 and 2 and the system choose the higher. If you have 4 sticks it should run in quad channel, if you have 8 sticks it should also run in quad channel.

Either way I would start with trying it with just two sticks of RAM and so on to see what you come up with. If you run in quad channel with 4 sticks then I'd say you need another two sticks of RAM to run in quad channel.


----------



## xarot

I've run my 4960X/RIVEBE (rebuild) now for some time and it runs more reliably than my X99 setup which is sitting in a closet in the mean time. While X99 may be faster in some tasks the RIVEBE nowadays I also appreciate functionality over pure speed.







With Titan Xs in SLI, I can see no difference at all between the two systems in games.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> You can place a stick into C1 slot, and try to test it by RAM checker at boot. But some problem happens ONLY when you run full quad channel.


The RAM checker is the same boot sequence before the BIOS screen appears? THe LED by the 24-pin ATX gets stuck in RAM, and the OC panel displays "RAM" to the left of the BCLK.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> First let me start with I am no expert and I could be completely wrong in this as this is my best "guess" or hypothesis.
> That being said: It could be that the system will only run in triple channel because you have 6 sticks of RAM, where 6 is only divisible by 3 and 2 and the system choose the higher. If you have 4 sticks it should run in quad channel, if you have 8 sticks it should also run in quad channel.
> 
> Either way I would start with trying it with just two sticks of RAM and so on to see what you come up with. If you run in quad channel with 4 sticks then I'd say you need another two sticks of RAM to run in quad channel.


Done that. I have even filled all #1 slots (A1-D1) and all #2 slots (A2-D2) and the BIOS only recognizes 12 GB RAM.

I have even tried filling all slots to try and get 32 GB RAM, it stops at 24 GB.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba*
> 
> The RAM checker is the same boot sequence before the BIOS screen appears? THe LED by the 24-pin ATX gets stuck in RAM, and the OC panel displays "RAM" to the left of the BCLK.
> Done that. I have even filled all #1 slots (A1-D1) and all #2 slots (A2-D2) and the BIOS only recognizes 12 GB RAM.
> 
> I have even tried filling all slots to try and get 32 GB RAM, it stops at 24 GB.


I had a similar problem and almost RMA'd my board, but then I pulled my CPU and found a bent pin.
On that note I recommend checking for bent pins under the CPU. Make sure you have plenty of lighting because the MB pins are tiny and they sit at an angle. I almost missed mine but noticed it when I moved my work lamp.


----------



## Raghar

If that stick in C1 slot doesn't even show at BOOT, you have easily recognizable bad slot. (Badly seated CPU is somehow unlikely.) I think I have bad welding at C1 slot, which falls under "it didn't show there" sorts of RMAs.

Look into the RAM slot if there isn't a hair. (I removed a hair from my RAM slot, but it was B1 and it both booted up and worked, just with occasional errors.) Use windblower to remove dust from slot and turn MB upside down during that.

It was late when I posted that. I meant a program burned to DVD which would be used to boot PC and run RAM check without needing OS at all. http://www.memtest86.com/download.htm This one for example.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Tried XMP ??


----------



## Nilsagard

,


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Tried XMP ??


Ditto!


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Ditto!


Who are you talking about?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Who are you talking about?


The person I quoted, if you didn't know Ditto means "what he said".....


----------



## Raghar

Logic says when you wrote is correct, I couldn't ask about your, or homecinema names. Also logic says if what you wrote means what you said, by quoting you I asked not only you but homecinema as well.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Okay guys and girls so my board is kinda jacked, not very badly but bad enough to really be annoying.

My CMOS is reseting every time the power goes out if I unplug the PC or the power goes out everything is wiped. Which is especially frustration as my PC gets unplugged alot by my 3 year old playing under my desk and I just had to redo my overclock for the 3rd time in a week and ya this aint going to fly.

I have tried 2 different battery's they are working battery's and nothing still doesn't work. So is there a way anyone knows of where I can hardcore some profiles like the water cooled gaming profiles, anyway I can hardcore my settings into those? or just hardcore my bios to my settings? Preferably hardcore my settings on that profile.

Also I am pretty sure I know why its jacked, when I was assembling this temporary loop I had forgot I took out all my plugs in my gpu block and when I installed everything and went to leak test water gushed all over everything. This was a few weeks ago I let it dry for a week before turning it back on. I know I know stupid move but hey thats why we leak test and my board needed to be cleaned anyway







(it was actually clean but whatever







.) I was using pure distilled and it was in freshly cleaned rads ect and only in the loop for a few second before spilling everywhere so I am not sure f it shorted the CMOS but it must have.

Everything is fine has been fine for the past 2 weeks except my CMOS resets I did forget to take the CMOS out when the leak happened. So I think my CMOS got shorted out or something.

By the way I tested the battery's in a remote that we have for a roku like box, so the battery's might be enough to power that but not the motherboard? 1 was from an old laptop that is broke and the other was from the remote both worked in the remote.


----------



## Mega Man

Remotes are very low power needed and not a constant drain, batteries "recharge" over time just buy new ones only like 5-7 for 2 pack. I doubt your loop leak hurt mobo, if it did it would be permanent.
I killed one mobo that way in but have had allot of issues first time leaks.

Dead bios batteries have weird symptoms

Iirc you can save your profile to hdd but it is only good on same bios versions


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Remotes are very low power needed and not a constant drain, batteries "recharge" over time just buy new ones only like 5-7 for 2 pack. I doubt your loop leak hurt mobo, if it did it would be permanent.
> I killed one mobo that way in but have had allot of issues first time leaks.
> 
> Dead bios batteries have weird symptoms
> 
> Iirc you can save your profile to hdd but it is only good on same bios versions


Hmm how you save to hard drive?

I am going to try some new batteries before I write it off just preparing for the worse lol.

And ya I guess if it did happen it could have been worse its not the first time I have soaked a board but it is the first time I have ever seen any damage from it (well seeming damage). So I guess it was time I am just glad it didn't die lol.

That was the worse though lol, I have had lots of small leaks due to stupid things before but this just gushed lol, basically I had 2 of the ports of the 4 on my EK block with fittings and the other 2 were open (one on either side), I am use to using the terminal adapter but I just threw this together temp on a small loop with 1 gpu so I had to put on the single card terminal and forget to plug it up lol. Water just poured all over, there was literally a pool of water on my board lol it got a bath.


----------



## Mega Man

look in bios it will tell you, if it is possible, sorry i am in china atm dealing with family issues and cant check


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> look in bios it will tell you, if it is possible, sorry i am in china atm dealing with family issues and cant check


Okay I think I found what you were talking about but its to USB not harddrive. That is under the Last Modified, which brings me to something else that I find odd. So this morning there was a bios screen when I got to it so apparently the power went out last night (thats been happening a lot due to the snow). My bios reset just like every other time, however when I clicked last modified it told me all of my settings. So the bios knew exactly what settings I had and wanted yet it still didn't apply them.


----------



## Raghar

Is it sayíng press F1 to enter BIOS? If yes it's not problem of battery, it's BIOS feature. Either you had an unexpected power failure, your OS didn't terminate properly, or you OC is unstable.

If not try to switch to second BIOS if it changes anything.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Is it sayíng press F1 to enter BIOS? If yes it's not problem of battery, it's BIOS feature. Either you had an unexpected power failure, your OS didn't terminate properly, or you OC is unstable.
> 
> If not try to switch to second BIOS if it changes anything.


I do not recall, it does not say overclocking failed and there is nothing wrong with my OC as I tried it without changing my clocks. I changed some settings turned saved reset got into windows and shut down then unplugged. When I plugged back in the settings were default again.

Yes it does say press f1, it says "Press F1 to enter to restore bios settings" or something along those lines, however when I do that everything is default.

I was going to try to use the other bios but I cannot figure out how to swicth them, I know there is a bios switch however its a momentary switch lol.


----------



## Mega Man

you can just restart a second time and the settings should just be back if i understand your problem correctly, another thing to talk about is a UPS !


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can just restart a second time and the settings should just be back if i understand your problem correctly, another thing to talk about is a UPS !


I know what your thinking but. I dont think thats the issue.

If I shut the computer down correctly, then turn it back on it still wipes the settings.

As to a UPS I have looked before but they are tough to find for me. I would use one but I aint paying the prices they want lol. Best look at my sig hehehe. I have a 1600w power supply because I can and do max that sucker so a UPS for me is over a grand. and thats just one of 3 PCs in my room. I have dedicated 20 amp breakers for my PC lol because I was tripping the 15amp. 3 290xs running PT1 bios at 1.5v benching ya they dont make UPSes for me hehehe.

I also am not too worried about power outages, I keep my windows on its own drive all other files are on another drive games have there own drive important files and ones not used all the time are on my nas (is on a ups) if windows corrupts I reinstall it no bother most my programs are on my D drive and backed up as well. I can reinstall windows quick and do frequently its no issue.

I will try that though this weekend sometime. turning it on off then on after the message.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Alright guys update and things are weirder now.

If I do nothing but set my profile to XMP which changes the memory speed to 2400mhz , then shut down my pc correctly and turn off the PSU. Then I turn it back on it does its speel about restore bios settings.

When I do this my settings come back my ram is at 2400mhz, However if I set any kind of OC it resets everything. So it only wont restore settings if there is an overclock. Also when it resets because of an overclock my last modified still shows the settings I changed last.

So the bios and CMOS know what settings I want it just doesn't care it resets them anyway.


----------



## SystemTech

So rather late than never haha. Latest member to the club








Got a second hand Black Edition yesterday to replace my std Rampage IV Extreme. Love the looks of the board. Cant wait to actually start playing around with it.
Had my 3960X at 4.6GHz with virtually stock volts so will see if she can match here. I can just hit 5Ghz with my chip but it requires a fairly big jump in voltage so im happy at 4.6 with hardly a bump up in voltage.
CPU-Z to come


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SystemTech*
> 
> So rather late than never haha. Latest member to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a second hand Black Edition yesterday to replace my std Rampage IV Extreme. Love the looks of the board. Cant wait to actually start playing around with it.
> Had my 3960X at 4.6GHz with virtually stock volts so will see if she can match here. I can just hit 5Ghz with my chip but it requires a fairly big jump in voltage so im happy at 4.6 with hardly a bump up in voltage.
> CPU-Z to come


Welcome!
Good luck with this beast of a board!


----------



## SystemTech

As promised
: 

Oh and my delight i now have to somehow reactivate windows again


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I know what your thinking but. I dont think thats the issue.
> 
> If I shut the computer down correctly, then turn it back on it still wipes the settings.
> 
> As to a UPS I have looked before but they are tough to find for me. I would use one but I aint paying the prices they want lol. Best look at my sig hehehe. I have a 1600w power supply because I can and do max that sucker so a UPS for me is over a grand. and thats just one of 3 PCs in my room. I have dedicated 20 amp breakers for my PC lol because I was tripping the 15amp. 3 290xs running PT1 bios at 1.5v benching ya they dont make UPSes for me hehehe.
> 
> I also am not too worried about power outages, I keep my windows on its own drive all other files are on another drive games have there own drive important files and ones not used all the time are on my nas (is on a ups) if windows corrupts I reinstall it no bother most my programs are on my D drive and backed up as well. I can reinstall windows quick and do frequently its no issue.
> 
> I will try that though this weekend sometime. turning it on off then on after the message.


At LEAST pick up a line conditioner then... It seems you are not experienced with what a power outage/spike/or other can do to your hardware AND your data... But truly, data is the least of your problems.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> At LEAST pick up a line conditioner then... It seems you are not experienced with what a power outage/spike/or other can do to your hardware AND your data... But truly, data is the least of your problems.


Not really, at worst I get with a surge that takes my power supply out, my power supply will prevent further damage (hopefully but that doesn't always happen). The harddrives could fail due to power outages but thats about it.

"At LEAST pick up a line conditioner then..." I have a buddy that is an Electrical Engineer for the US military and I asked him about this before, he says and I quote "They are 100% worthless unless you have the worst power lines in the US, in 3rd world country's they have a purpose in the US they do not." He also says that Surge Protectors are worthless and a gimmick (I do use on of those though).

I know fully what a black out can do, I was a network administrator at ASU for almost 5 years......
Its not that I do not know the risks its that to me they are not worth dropping 2 grand on a UPS and doing so every few years when it goes bad. If in 10 years I lose 1 system to a surge well then that is still less than buying UPS's.

If I had a couple million worth of servers with irreplaceable data than it would be different. However for my home PC that is a few grand and has some games and windows install that I frequently redo its not such a big deal, to me but everyone is different.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Not really, at worst I get with a surge that takes my power supply out, my power supply will prevent further damage (hopefully but that doesn't always happen). The harddrives could fail due to power outages but thats about it.
> 
> "At LEAST pick up a line conditioner then..." I have a buddy that is an Electrical Engineer for the US military and I asked him about this before, he says and I quote "They are 100% worthless unless you have the worst power lines in the US, in 3rd world country's they have a purpose in the US they do not." He also says that Surge Protectors are worthless and a gimmick (I do use on of those though).
> 
> I know fully what a black out can do, I was a network administrator at ASU for almost 5 years......
> Its not that I do not know the risks its that to me they are not worth dropping 2 grand on a UPS and doing so every few years when it goes bad. If in 10 years I lose 1 system to a surge well then that is still less than buying UPS's.
> 
> If I had a couple million worth of servers with irreplaceable data than it would be different. However for my home PC that is a few grand and has some games and windows install that I frequently redo its not such a big deal, to me but everyone is different.


I find what your friend said to be questionable, at best... Particularly the bit about the surge suppressors... If you've ever monitored what can happen during a surge, I believe you might think differently. The line conditioner bit, perhaps he is correct in most cases, but when I lived up in northern MN for a few years, a line conditioner or Sine Wave UPS was absolutely necessary to avoid damage during normal mains operation, let alone during a power fault, I lost several PSU's, and more than one entire system due to the mains power there. I have not had any issues where I am currently, but in the past, without some sort of protection, even if just a surge suppressor (they have saved my gear many times), I have lost a LOT of electronic equipment, ranging from TV's, to computers, even lost my NES back in the 80's when an earthquake happened in California, also lost almost my entire house when the power was interrupted during a Tornado when I was down towards the Twin Cities about 10 years ago. Although I always had things behind a 'power strip', I was 'young' and arrogant, and thought something childish like, "Pffft. If they were necessary then...", so now, I use a Pure Sine Wave UPS, and everything is behind a surge suppressor. We have had several outages, including one night when my roommate was doing laundry drunk and thought the breaker blew, so he just started flipping breakers throughout the house randomly and repeatedly for several minutes at 2am, I woke up and pulled the dang knob on the washer and to his amazement it turned on... Needless to say, I flipped out on him for endangering the >$10,000 worth of computer equipment in my room. Freaking Jacktard!

Anyway, my experiences aside, better safe than sorry is always a good motto to live by. 

As well, something to consider, that would definitely be less expensive, is either to purchase a used UPS with faulty battery modules, and simply replace them (Which can be done with any SLA battery, or even a car battery if you live on the edge... lol), or you can just as well make your own UPS, which, although without the fancy features that the higher end units will have, it will at the very least do the part, and can be made for pennies by comparison... Maybe you could even buy a couple of consumer grade units and run them in parallel for sufficient capacity, although that was just a quick, popped in my head thought and I've no idea how realistic that idea is... I do know that you can increase the capacity of *most* consumer UPS units by simply adding more SLA batteries... Might be worth considering.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I find what your friend said to be questionable, at best... Particularly the bit about the surge suppressors... If you've ever monitored what can happen during a surge, I believe you might think differently. The line conditioner bit, perhaps he is correct in most cases, but when I lived up in northern MN for a few years, a line conditioner or Sine Wave UPS was absolutely necessary to avoid damage during normal mains operation, let alone during a power fault, I lost several PSU's, and more than one entire system due to the mains power there. I have not had any issues where I am currently, but in the past, without some sort of protection, even if just a surge suppressor (they have saved my gear many times), I have lost a LOT of electronic equipment, ranging from TV's, to computers, even lost my NES back in the 80's when an earthquake happened in California, also lost almost my entire house when the power was interrupted during a Tornado when I was down towards the Twin Cities about 10 years ago. Although I always had things behind a 'power strip', I was 'young' and arrogant, and thought something childish like, "Pffft. If they were necessary then...", so now, I use a Pure Sine Wave UPS, and everything is behind a surge suppressor. We have had several outages, including one night when my roommate was doing laundry drunk and thought the breaker blew, so he just started flipping breakers throughout the house randomly and repeatedly for several minutes at 2am, I woke up and pulled the dang knob on the washer and to his amazement it turned on... Needless to say, I flipped out on him for endangering the >$10,000 worth of computer equipment in my room. Freaking Jacktard!
> 
> Anyway, my experiences aside, better safe than sorry is always a good motto to live by.
> 
> As well, something to consider, that would definitely be less expensive, is either to purchase a used UPS with faulty battery modules, and simply replace them (Which can be done with any SLA battery, or even a car battery if you live on the edge... lol), or you can just as well make your own UPS, which, although without the fancy features that the higher end units will have, it will at the very least do the part, and can be made for pennies by comparison... Maybe you could even buy a couple of consumer grade units and run them in parallel for sufficient capacity, although that was just a quick, popped in my head thought and I've no idea how realistic that idea is... I do know that you can increase the capacity of *most* consumer UPS units by simply adding more SLA batteries... Might be worth considering.


Those Surge protectors, those do work kind of but that is the problem. from what I have read and what he told me I gather this. They do stop a surge but only 1 time, and even a small surge can set them off and most power lines have small surges quite frequently. So when you have a small spike surge that wouldn't have hurt anything the "Surge Protector" trips its 1 time internals and then you turn it back on or it doesn't even turn off. Know when you get hit by a large surge that would fry components it no longer has the ability to stop the surge. It would seem though in my looking to find a good article for you that there is diffrent types of surge protectors so that is something to take into account. Now that I know this I am going to look for better oens







.

Anyway here is a good post about surge protectors. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/875254-11-myths-surge-protection.html


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Not really, at worst I get with a surge that takes my power supply out, my power supply will prevent further damage (hopefully but that doesn't always happen). The harddrives could fail due to power outages but thats about it.
> 
> "At LEAST pick up a line conditioner then..." I have a buddy that is an Electrical Engineer for the US military and I asked him about this before, he says and I quote "They are 100% worthless unless you have the worst power lines in the US, in 3rd world country's they have a purpose in the US they do not." He also says that Surge Protectors are worthless and a gimmick (I do use on of those though).
> 
> I know fully what a black out can do, I was a network administrator at ASU for almost 5 years......
> Its not that I do not know the risks its that to me they are not worth dropping 2 grand on a UPS and doing so every few years when it goes bad. If in 10 years I lose 1 system to a surge well then that is still less than buying UPS's.
> 
> If I had a couple million worth of servers with irreplaceable data than it would be different. However for my home PC that is a few grand and has some games and windows install that I frequently redo its not such a big deal, to me but everyone is different.
> 
> 
> 
> I find what your friend said to be questionable, at best... Particularly the bit about the surge suppressors... If you've ever monitored what can happen during a surge, I believe you might think differently. The line conditioner bit, perhaps he is correct in most cases, but when I lived up in northern MN for a few years, a line conditioner or Sine Wave UPS was absolutely necessary to avoid damage during normal mains operation, let alone during a power fault, I lost several PSU's, and more than one entire system due to the mains power there. I have not had any issues where I am currently, but in the past, without some sort of protection, even if just a surge suppressor (they have saved my gear many times), I have lost a LOT of electronic equipment, ranging from TV's, to computers, even lost my NES back in the 80's when an earthquake happened in California, also lost almost my entire house when the power was interrupted during a Tornado when I was down towards the Twin Cities about 10 years ago. Although I always had things behind a 'power strip', I was 'young' and arrogant, and thought something childish like, "Pffft. If they were necessary then...", so now, I use a Pure Sine Wave UPS, and everything is behind a surge suppressor. We have had several outages, including one night when my roommate was doing laundry drunk and thought the breaker blew, so he just started flipping breakers throughout the house randomly and repeatedly for several minutes at 2am, I woke up and pulled the dang knob on the washer and to his amazement it turned on... Needless to say, I flipped out on him for endangering the >$10,000 worth of computer equipment in my room. Freaking Jacktard!
> 
> Anyway, my experiences aside, better safe than sorry is always a good motto to live by.
> 
> As well, something to consider, that would definitely be less expensive, is either to purchase a used UPS with faulty battery modules, and simply replace them (Which can be done with any SLA battery, or even a car battery if you live on the edge... lol), or you can just as well make your own UPS, which, although without the fancy features that the higher end units will have, it will at the very least do the part, and can be made for pennies by comparison... Maybe you could even buy a couple of consumer grade units and run them in parallel for sufficient capacity, although that was just a quick, popped in my head thought and I've no idea how realistic that idea is... I do know that you can increase the capacity of *most* consumer UPS units by simply adding more SLA batteries... Might be worth considering.
Click to expand...

i will say it, his EE friend ( isnt it amazing how everyone on the interwebs is a engineer of sorts ~! ) is flat out wrong.or he does NOT understand line conditioners,

they do not help short term anything. like with pc psus, they provide QUALITY input power hopefully LENGTHENING the life of equip, but in our terms it can also help with a better oc ( quality power in = more quality power out, more stable power/quality power can = better ocs )
now with that said, my UPS constantly and consistently trips on HIGH input voltage

now my pcs dont care, but i use these on my nas, where i want quality everything as it maintains my valueable info !

do you NEED IT ? no

does the lack of necessity make a power line conditioner bad/bad idea/ useless? ...... ill let you answer that., you also dont NEED a house, car, garage, pool, hot water, refrigerator. you can live without them, but does the lack of need, mean they are useless?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I find what your friend said to be questionable, at best... Particularly the bit about the surge suppressors... If you've ever monitored what can happen during a surge, I believe you might think differently. The line conditioner bit, perhaps he is correct in most cases, but when I lived up in northern MN for a few years, a line conditioner or Sine Wave UPS was absolutely necessary to avoid damage during normal mains operation, let alone during a power fault, I lost several PSU's, and more than one entire system due to the mains power there. I have not had any issues where I am currently, but in the past, without some sort of protection, even if just a surge suppressor (they have saved my gear many times), I have lost a LOT of electronic equipment, ranging from TV's, to computers, even lost my NES back in the 80's when an earthquake happened in California, also lost almost my entire house when the power was interrupted during a Tornado when I was down towards the Twin Cities about 10 years ago. Although I always had things behind a 'power strip', I was 'young' and arrogant, and thought something childish like, "Pffft. If they were necessary then...", so now, I use a Pure Sine Wave UPS, and everything is behind a surge suppressor. We have had several outages, including one night when my roommate was doing laundry drunk and thought the breaker blew, so he just started flipping breakers throughout the house randomly and repeatedly for several minutes at 2am, I woke up and pulled the dang knob on the washer and to his amazement it turned on... Needless to say, I flipped out on him for endangering the >$10,000 worth of computer equipment in my room. Freaking Jacktard!
> 
> Anyway, my experiences aside, better safe than sorry is always a good motto to live by.
> 
> As well, something to consider, that would definitely be less expensive, is either to purchase a used UPS with faulty battery modules, and simply replace them (Which can be done with any SLA battery, or even a car battery if you live on the edge... lol), or you can just as well make your own UPS, which, although without the fancy features that the higher end units will have, it will at the very least do the part, and can be made for pennies by comparison... Maybe you could even buy a couple of consumer grade units and run them in parallel for sufficient capacity, although that was just a quick, popped in my head thought and I've no idea how realistic that idea is... I do know that you can increase the capacity of *most* consumer UPS units by simply adding more SLA batteries... Might be worth considering.
> 
> 
> 
> Those Surge protectors, those do work kind of but that is the problem. from what I have read and what he told me I gather this. They do stop a surge but only 1 time, and even a small surge can set them off and most power lines have small surges quite frequently. So when you have a small spike surge that wouldn't have hurt anything the "Surge Protector" trips its 1 time internals and then you turn it back on or it doesn't even turn off. Know when you get hit by a large surge that would fry components it no longer has the ability to stop the surge. It would seem though in my looking to find a good article for you that there is diffrent types of surge protectors so that is something to take into account. Now that I know this I am going to look for better oens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Anyway here is a good post about surge protectors. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/875254-11-myths-surge-protection.html
Click to expand...

who ever said to get a cheap ups, and increasing batteries is not nessisarrily a good idea, ---- you can damage your ups that way, but ill let the " EE" friend explain that to you,

NOT ALL SURGE protectors are the same,

esp when you compare decent ( NOT ENTRYLEVEL like you assume ) ups.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i will say it, his EE friend ( isnt it amazing how everyone on the interwebs is a engineer of sorts ~! ) is flat out wrong.or he does NOT understand line conditioners,
> 
> they do not help short term anything. like with pc psus, they provide QUALITY input power hopefully LENGTHENING the life of equip, but in our terms it can also help with a better oc ( quality power in = more quality power out, more stable power/quality power can = better ocs )


This is exactly why he said it was useless, in most cases in the US your power isn't really that "Dirty" so it doesn't need cleaned. Is this always true no, is it true most of the time in the US yes.

" isnt it amazing how everyone on the inter webs is a engineer of sorts ~!" I am on the inter webs and I am not an Engineer of any sort. so think your comment might be a little vague. However that is okay lets insult the guy that not only is an Engineer but uses those skills to serve our Country.

However that said just because he is an Engineer doesn't make him a god, he is allowed to be wrong and if you have some proof they do work that you can link I would be happy to look it over as I would like to know. He very well may be wrong as his job consists of setting up power grids ect for bases all around the world, he may not have much need to install power conditioners. Just because someone went to school for something doesn't mean they will remember everything I sure do not.

Especially this better OCs, because honestly that just seems a little hard to believe, but if its true I will run and buy a LC right now







.

Edit:
According to Toms Hardware Line conditioners "an temporarily bridge a brownout or low-voltage situation." Well I personally have never had a Brown Out nor a Voltage issue, that I know of but I do not check that lol so I concede I wouldn't know.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-protection-calculate-consumption,3066-8.html

Also doing a little light reading on these things, from what I have seen the company's selling them and there reasoning. They say they help with EMI caused by appliances in the home? In the case of my living room PCs this could be helpful then (assuming they do help), In the case of my Main PC (in the man cave).

This PC is on its own outlet, this outlet goes to a breaker box that is completely separate from the house. It is on its own circuit, as is another 30 amp breaker both have 20 amp outlets single outlets, so each these outlets are used for PCs, and are wired with 10g romex . Now this breaker box does also have 2 15 amp breakers that control the rest of the outlets in the room. I do have a mini fridge in there but that is it and it is on one of the 15s.

Again both the house and and the man cave are completely separate from each other, they both split off in different directions from the 240v in from the Power Company. My house has the typical inside breaker box in a wall, the Man Cave has only an outside breaker box.

Both due however share a 240v 200amp breaker at the mains. It goes from the power company's meter than to the 240 breaker then ts off to the house and man cave. So would this "Dirty Power" affect me?

Now if it does affect me by a backfeed? (dont know if thats a thing lol), this is what led me to asking him to begin with. My main line is shared even more I think. So to give you a more complex idea.

As you know as I told you before (Plus its in my profile







) I own an RV park. My mains come in from the meter, they are then split to 4 sets, 1 set controls My house, My man cave, 2 Rv spaces. Those 2 Rv spaces are no longer in use as they have been filled with my Junk and a Shed (actually a 8x30 shipping container but I use it as a shed







).

Anyway the other 3 also have the same 240v 200amp breakers they each go to 10 spaces each with there own distribution box that is metered, 30 spaces 3 breakers (actually 29 but whatever







)

So if the back feeding does still happen from that then I most likely defiantly need one as my power would be very very dirty by there reasoning. Also just to note as it is a business I have 3 poles on my property, to run to my mains. And my own transformer set on the pole (2 or 3 I dont much pay attention) not sure what affect that plays into power cleanliness.


----------



## Mega Man

Again.

No need does not make worthless. And I already explained how they help, go read up on power supplies as to why clean power matters, now that does not mean you NEED clean power to turn on a pc, you know you can go buy that 15$ psu... it will power your pc. It is the same concept


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Again.
> 
> No need does not make worthless.


It does in this context read what I said again, "They are 100% worthless *unless* you have the worst power lines in the US, in 3rd world country's they have a purpose in the US they do not."

The definition of Worthless, "having no real value or use."

If your power is not dirty than it is not needed, if it is not needed it is worthless. I do however get what you are saying however I also see it from his side.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Again.
> I already explained how they help, go read up on power supplies as to why clean power matters, now that does not mean you NEED clean power to turn on a pc, you know you can go buy that 15$ psu... it will power your pc. It is the same concept


I was confused of your earlier statement I re read it and see where I got confused. I though you were saying power line conditioners increased OC ability, I see now you were saying that about PSUs. So they help to lengthening the life of the power supply, is what you are saying?

I have tried to find info about it however all that I find is people saying that is needed, the people that are saying that are also the ones that sell. The threads of discussion by people on forums result in they are snake oil, so I ask again any refrences from people in our industry that are trusted that give the why and the how? Or are we simply believing what the company's that make them are telling us?


----------



## Mega Man

ok, i dont know how to make this any more clear to you,

Quote:


> worth·less
> [ˈwərTHləs]
> ADJECTIVE
> 
> having no real value or use:


Source

(china blocks google ! )

The oppisite of need - needless
Quote:


> need·less
> [ˈnēdləs]
> ADJECTIVE
> 
> (of something bad) unnecessary; avoidable:


Source

do you NEED it -no
does that make it worthless -no

i did not say it WOULD make your overclock better i said it MAY,

one service it does is provide CLEAN power to your psu, which then can provide CLEANER power to your pc, there are alot of factors. but it CAN help
they exist for a reason, because your friend has a EE ( weather he does or not, lets assume he does ) does not mean he knows anything about pcs and how they operate,

cleaner power= happier pc, again go look it up if you dont believe me on that.

input power does effect output power.

and o my the whole internets says they are not needed, so yea everything on the interwebs is true too .... woooo

let us take apart 1 power supply, lets pic the first one on jonnygurus site cause i am lazy

lets goto page 5 disassembly
Quote:


> Lots of line filtering going on again here. Looks just as robust as the bigger unit


yep.... line filtering must be useless, every psu has them built in even though they serve no point, going further making the power even cleaner must also serve no point. - ironically the more efficient they get the more beefy the filtering gets.... hmmm







wonder why ....

again i will say, you dont NEED it, however that does not make it WORTHLESS


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok, i dont know how to make this any more clear to you,
> Source
> 
> (china blocks google ! )
> 
> The oppisite of need - needless
> Source
> 
> do you NEED it -no
> does that make it worthless -no
> 
> i did not say it WOULD make your overclock better i said it MAY,


Ya thats what I said, I misread you the first time my bad. Not going to get into the different interpretation of the words its open to interpretation, the fact at hand is it is not needed, that was the point he was trying to make and we agree on that so moving on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok, i dont know how to make this any more clear to you,
> Source
> 
> because your friend has a EE ( weather he does or not, lets assume he does ) does not mean he knows anything about pcs and how they operate,


I agree 110% as a matter of fact so does he, when I ask him PC related questions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok, i dont know how to make this any more clear to you,
> Source
> 
> The oppisite of need - needless
> Source
> 
> one service it does is provide CLEAN power to your psu, which then can provide CLEANER power to your pc, there are alot of factors. but it CAN help
> they exist for a reason.
> 
> cleaner power= happier pc, again go look it up if you dont believe me on that.
> 
> input power does effect output power.
> 
> and o my the whole internets says they are not needed, so yea everything on the interwebs is true too .... woooo


Okay well now you are contradicting yourself thus my problem, You tell me to look it up I do and share my finding and you say they are not true? That is why I asked you for credible sources of your examples. I am also not trying to argue with you, I do not know if it helps or not and am very curious to know. However I want scientific fact not just ramblings you know what I mean, not saying you dont know what you are talking about or that he does I am simply stating I would like to see evidence one way or the other.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok, i dont know how to make this any more clear to you,
> Source
> 
> let us take apart 1 power supply, lets pic the first one on jonnygurus site cause i am lazy
> 
> lets goto page 5 disassembly
> yep.... line filtering must be useless, every psu has them built in even though they serve no point, going further making the power even cleaner must also serve no point. - ironically the more efficient they get the more beefy the filtering gets.... hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wonder why ....
> 
> again i will say, you dont NEED it, however that does not make it WORTHLESS


Well now you are comparing apples and oranges, that Line filtering in a DC power Supply is for Ripple Suppression and Voltage drops in a PC, those DC voltages are a big deal. A GPU for example needs 12 volts 11 volts can be a problem, this is why DC power supply's have line filters. However in my looking at line filters in general this was a common theme, DC power and AC power are different things and have different requirements and needs. A PC power supply does not line filter the AC in.

I will go on to say there is a big glaring fact to why is does not serve a purpose in our case. What a Line filter can do, is stabilize voltage, so for instance my lines are 120v, without a line filter they may drop to 115 or 110 or spike to 125 130 ect. However with a quality Power Supply this is accounted for, as is it in most TVs, Stereos ect.

The Power Supply is not rated to use 115v and 115v only, rather they accept a range of the spectrum for instance 110-140v at 50-60hz. This eliminates the need for a Line Filter as a small drop or spike will not have any effect. If you are having large spikes or drops well than you have bigger issues and your Electric company needs to repair those. That is what I am gathering anyway, however Line Filters also provide surge protection that is much better than the MOV style cheap surge protectors so it is useful in that way.

Now that you made this assumption of above I ask when you say a PC wants clean power are you speaking about clean DC? As if you are yes I can and do agree to that, that is known by most and true. However we are not talking about the DC voltages but rather the AC line which is a lot different. In a quality power supply a spike should not affect DC voltage in any way, if it did well the it wouldn't be doing its job correctly.

Thing is AC is distributed differently there is no standard that says everyone in the US has 115v, that is usually most common but there are other voltages. As I sated I have 120v power lines to my equipment not 115v. This is why most electrical devices are made to be used within a range, this is what makes the line filtering useless in most cases. As your spikes and drops should be within range, if they are not then that is an issue that is best served by the power company fixing the issue not a band aid power filter.

I will check out your links however, I am very curious to see if these things work or not. They do provide surge protection and if they help at all then I would like to pick a few up they are not that expensive. I just honestly think they are snake oil, from what I have been told, seen, and know.

If line filter were as important as you say or can extend the life of a PSU then quality PSUs would have one built it wouldn't it? I consider my PSU that I believe you also own 1 of would have one built in to the AC line, they do not. So EVGA is giving me a 10 year warranty, on a power supply that may die in 3 due to "dirty power" or lets say it takes longer like 7, not that most people will keep a power supply that long. That is still within there warranty window, so why take the chance?

So I think we can safely assume that in the case of the EVGA it can run for 10 years without a filter and not experience issues. 10 years is away longer than 90% of people will use that power supply. If it does in fact have an AC line filter that I do not know about well then that eliminates the need for an external 1 so we are back to its useless.


----------



## Mega Man

o dear god, no , that is AC line filtering, NOT DC which the psu also has,

EVERY PSU has ac line filtering









from the above link
Quote:


> Once again, no line filtering is done on the housing side... it's all on the mainboard.


i even gave you a link, told you what page and made a quote, you didnt even read the context which is 99% pictures and would of taken 5 min to read .....


that is an AC line voltage socket, not a dc socket, where several companies put AC line voltage filtering ! but in this case it was put on the mainboard....

as to power- in the us it can be ( most average ) between 110-126 who said anything about it has to be 115? i really am starting to question if you understand anything power related on a pc or anything, as this subject was the reason you got on my block list to begin with

lastly i never said line conditioning was the end all be all, i did say it was not worthless your word not mine, and anyone who says it is, is frankly and i am being excessively nice when i say this, someone who i would never take or relay advice from.

esp when dealing with higher and higher efficiency is EXTREMELY important


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> o dear god, no , that is AC line filtering, NOT DC which the psu also has,
> 
> EVERY PSU has ac line filtering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from the above link
> i even gave you a link, told you what page and made a quote, you didnt even read the context which is 99% pictures and would of taken 5 min to read .....
> 
> 
> that is an AC line voltage socket, not a dc socket, where several companies put AC line voltage filtering ! but in this case it was put on the mainboard....
> 
> as to power- in the us it can be ( most average ) between 110-126 who said anything about it has to be 115? i really am starting to question if you understand anything power related on a pc or anything, as this subject was the reason you got on my block list to begin with
> 
> lastly i never said line conditioning was the end all be all, i did say it was not worthless your word not mine, and anyone who says it is, is frankly and i am being excessively nice when i say this, someone who i would never take or relay advice from.
> 
> esp when dealing with higher and higher efficiency is EXTREMELY important


"who said anything about it has to be 115? i really am starting to question if you understand anything power related on a pc or anything" no one said that, I used it as an example to go with my point. Line filtering helps with spikes and drops, however those spikes and drops are accounted for by the voltage range.

"as this subject was the reason you got on my block list to begin with " Really because I seem to remember it being you making a stupid statement that I then called you on, which we then made a post about and the at the time OCN power supply editor told you that you were wrong so. By all means keep bringing that up though, better yet would you like a link to the thread were 10 people told you, you were just trying to argue? Please go argue with someone else.

Lets refresh what that was eh,

You said power is measured in AMPs that is wrong period. Power is measured by Power in the equation and Power in the equation is substituted by Watts not amps. The reason that amps are not used to measure is they are part of the equation that is variable. Amps X Volts = Watts, this is why Electricity is measured in watts not amps. I explained this to you as did numerous other people and yet you still tout your fact, well your fact is wrong.

If the Power Supply's already have Line filters well than it sounds like a external one serves no purpose IE worthless. I already stated this is in my post that you quoted to give this the benefit of the doubt.

I also never claimed to know much about PC power supply's, I do know the basics of electricity and I can read and everything I have read says you are wrong, and Line filters are worthless snake oil. I gave you the benefit of the doubt and asked for evidence. You refused to provide it, and then when I found my own you said it was wrong. So I am done talking to you as you have shown you are just spouting off things you think with no factual evidence what so ever. I am sorry but what you think is of no relevance to me at all, I do not know you, nor trust your opinion nor anyone else's for that matter I deal in facts and those you have yet to provide.

Further on you have not only insulted me multiple times in our history but now have my friend, I wish you all the luck, but I will now be placing you on my block list feel free to do the same.


----------



## Ftimster

Hay guys been a long long time my system has been doing great for well over a year now and need to ask a question still on original bios 40*whatever and some old nividia drivers 353. Something lol... it's just been working, my question is going to update my Titan drivers do I need to do the registry hack to get the pice gen 3.0 like back in the day? And wondering if I should do the bios as well thanks
Wating for broadwell-E 6950x


----------



## Shadowarez

Not sure if i should continue to buy new hardware for this rig or not will getting the intel 750 too boot be a hassle or is there a community bios update for nvme? Since asus pretty well dropped this board and erased all memory of its existance.

There was a poll done for nvme on x79. x85 and z97 raja commrnted on looked like x79 got well over 1000 requests but thst never went anywere.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> Hay guys been a long long time my system has been doing great for well over a year now and need to ask a question still on original bios 40*whatever and some old nividia drivers 353. Something lol... it's just been working, my question is going to update my Titan drivers do I need to do the registry hack to get the pice gen 3.0 like back in the day? And wondering if I should do the bios as well thanks
> Wating for broadwell-E 6950x


SB-E needed the registry hack, IVB-E(4960x) doesn't need it as pci-E 3.0 is already implemented.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Not sure if i should continue to buy new hardware for this rig or not will getting the intel 750 too boot be a hassle or is there a community bios update for nvme? Since asus pretty well dropped this board and erased all memory of its existance.
> 
> There was a poll done for nvme on x79. x85 and z97 raja commrnted on looked like x79 got well over 1000 requests but thst never went anywere.


Well I swapped my Rampage V Extreme to RIVE BE for some time and now I back on RVE. Installation of Win 8.1 has been the same all this time. Plug and play. Also, few seem to have done a clean installation of Windows 10 into Intel 750 SSD using this board without problems.


----------



## Shadowarez

So its kinda a dung shoot ok well iwas asking as im bout to replace a intel 910 800gb pcie ssd.


----------



## Rayce185

There's an official Owners Club for everything here, right









Well then count me in











I've got the system nice and stable running at 5.0 GHz with 1.50v. Going up to a stable 5.2 proves to be an issue, even when pushing vCore all the way to 1.65V, temperatures aren't the issue. I still have a mosfet/VRM waterblock from EK lying around, but it's for the standard RIVE. IF it fits, would that help the stability issues? Because I doubt it's because of the CPU...


----------



## Mega Man

Welcome, sorry I don't know if it would help, maybe. Iirc you have to use thicker pads. But I know it can work


----------



## Rayce185

Thanks









Thicker pads? Would you care to explain please? I just used art rubber for isolation all around the CPU area, even around the mosfets and VRMs:


----------



## Mega Man

I am talking about thermal interface pads ( like fujipoly ) thicker pads then you use on the riv.

But I am only speaking from memory of what others used, you will need either to search the thread or wait for someone who did it.

Sorry I can't I am on edge (2g) in china on my phone atm


----------



## Rayce185

That's interesting. I wonder how so, since thicker pads (just like too much TMI) usually results in higher temperatures.

That is unless there is no decent contact between heat spreader and heat source, of course.


----------



## Mega Man

But vrms don't take much to cool, so instead of being at 25c or 30c the are at 30c or 35c, even 50C they are fine


----------



## Rayce185

So you wouldn't agree with him?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1586295/oc-tweak-help-for-rampage-iv-black-edition/0_100#post_24754803


----------



## Mega Man

keeping them cool is not hard, but that does not mean they dont need cooling, you are talking about putting a block on them, so no the increased tim usually does not matter, i never thought you would want to use extreme llc, so that is something different in and of itself, but no i dont think that it would be hard to cool, i dont see how that quote would be relevant however, all he is stating is you need additional cooling

you are going to way way overvolt, imo even with phase i would not do it, lower the llc and raise the volts, overvolting is not really useful 24/7

imo extreme llc has no use outside of l2n


----------



## Rayce185

So it's safe to say that I've hit the wall with the 5.0 GHz then? You can see my BIOS settings in that thread, I wouldn't know what else to tweak...


----------



## Mega Man

phase change is a whole other beast that i will never claim to have knowledge of beyond the basics- sorry i would recommend talking to @HOMECINEMA-PC


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> There's an official Owners Club for everything here, right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well then count me in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got the system nice and stable running at 5.0 GHz with 1.50v. Going up to a stable 5.2 proves to be an issue, even when pushing vCore all the way to 1.65V, temperatures aren't the issue. I still have a mosfet/VRM waterblock from EK lying around, but it's for the standard RIVE. IF it fits, would that help the stability issues? Because I doubt it's because of the CPU...


That is actually a sweet OC for this chip and probably the highest stable OC I have ever heard about. 4.4 is apparently the low average. My 4930k is stuck at 4.3ghz max. It is very stable and have had no problems what so ever with it. But as soon as I try to hit 4.4 I get a BSOD within 15 mins on a stress test. People on here have tried to help and the result is that I have lost the silicon lottery. I am getting the chip replaced under the intel tuning plan just as soon as I get a temporary replacement chip......


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That is actually a sweet OC for this chip and probably the highest stable OC I have ever heard about. 4.4 is apparently the low average. My 4930k is stuck at 4.3ghz max. It is very stable and have had no problems what so ever with it. But as soon as I try to hit 4.4 I get a BSOD within 15 mins on a stress test. People on here have tried to help and the result is that I have lost the silicon lottery. I am getting the chip replaced under the intel tuning plan just as soon as I get a temporary replacement chip......


Really? Wow okay.. I was in belief that 5.4-6.4 would be the absolute limit and that 5.2 would be doable.

Well then I'm pretty happy with the 5.0 I was able to achieve









Unfortunately that clock isn't stable under folding conditions, so I downclocked to a drastic 4.0 on the fly to continue in the FFW with a reduced voltage of 1.40.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Really? Wow okay.. I was in belief that 5.4-6.4 would be the absolute limit and that 5.2 would be doable.
> 
> Well then I'm pretty happy with the 5.0 I was able to achieve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately that clock isn't stable under folding conditions, so I downclocked to a drastic 4.0 on the fly to continue in the FFW with a reduced voltage of 1.40.


Are you on LN2? I read some through that other thread you posted a link to and there is mention of sub zero and the name of your build is frozen panda but there is no specific mention of LN2.
Another thing I noticed is your vcore is pretty high. I have heard that anything above the standard max of 1.4 can seriously degrade your CPU over time. I am on a 1.38 vcore at 4.3 ghz.

I am also in the process of water cooling my MB . I have a XPSC water block set that I need to install once I get all the parts needed for the expanded loop. Hopefully that will also help with getting a higher OC.

Please also note that though I have learned a lot on here I am still a newb when it comes to OCing.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Are you on LN2? I read some through that other thread you posted a link to and there is mention of sub zero and the name of your build is frozen panda but there is no specific mention of LN2.
> Another thing I noticed is your vcore is pretty high. I have heard that anything above the standard max of 1.4 can seriously degrade your CPU over time. I am on a 1.38 vcore at 4.3 ghz.
> 
> I am also in the process of water cooling my MB . I have a XPSC water block set that I need to install once I get all the parts needed for the expanded loop. Hopefully that will also help with getting a higher OC.
> 
> Please also note that though I have learned a lot on here I am still a newb when it comes to OCing.


Phase change, so also subzero, thus the name









For the most part I went with this guide: http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/0_100

Which states following:



So 1.50 is still within Intels recommended maximum range and should also be safe at these low temperatures, but I wouldn't do so on air or water to be honest.

I'd call myself an educated noob, learning by doing and reading a lot along the way. OCN is a great community and an awesome source of knowledge for anything regarding computers, and more


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Phase change, so also subzero, thus the name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the most part I went with this guide: http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/0_100
> 
> Which states following:
> 
> 
> 
> So 1.50 is still within Intels recommended maximum range and should also be safe at these low temperatures, but I wouldn't do so on air or water to be honest.
> 
> I'd call myself an educated noob, learning by doing and reading a lot along the way. OCN is a great community and an awesome source of knowledge for anything regarding computers, and more


Awesome! I did not know that guide existed. I will have to read through that when I get the chance. I have not messed with the VCC settings much but lookng at those numbers I may have to experiment.
WIth my OC set to 4.3 and vcore set to 1.38 my temps under normal gaming load do not exceed the low 50's. This is on Batman: Arkham Knight and Mad Max. I forgot to have RealTemp up when I was running Ashes of the Singularity... I haven't checked them on BF Hardline or CoD Advanced Warfare yet. I have loads of other games also but those are the ones I usually go by when checking system performance under operation......

LN2 does make a difference and I may try that one day but not for now.


----------



## Rayce185

LN2 and DICE are nothing for me. I wanted something reliable and usable 24/7.

How about just enhancing your WC setup with a water chiller?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> LN2 and DICE are nothing for me. I wanted something reliable and usable 24/7.
> 
> How about just enhancing your WC setup with a water chiller?


Not sure what DICE is and I have never heard of a water chiller.... That might be because they are not really intended for PC use. I would need to have it fit in my case that is until I move into a bigger place. TBH I am surprised none of the companies that produce water coolers have not come out with something like that for a PC. I can possibly see an issue with condensation unless there is an option to increase the cooling in small increments.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Really? Wow okay.. I was in belief that 5.4-6.4 would be the absolute limit and that 5.2 would be doable.
> 
> Well then I'm pretty happy with the 5.0 I was able to achieve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately that clock isn't stable under folding conditions, so I downclocked to a drastic 4.0 on the fly to continue in the FFW with a reduced voltage of 1.40.


5.4 to 6.4 sounds about right for absolute maximum. With a good clocking chip you may be able to hit 5.2 - 5.3 on phase.

Your voltage is fine although I would not go 1.65 for more than just running some benches. Phase buys you some headroom over water as does a subzero waterchiller. However a phase will never get even close to a DICE clock and it cannot take those voltages, being under zero isnt the whole story. Chips react differently the further under zero they are, a SS stage will never hit clocks that a Cascade will either, with a triple cascade you may be able to get close to DICE clocks but never LN2. There is a large difference between your -30 and dices -80 and LN2s -140.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not sure what DICE is and I have never heard of a water chiller.... That might be because they are not really intended for PC use. I would need to have it fit in my case that is until I move into a bigger place. TBH I am surprised none of the companies that produce water coolers have not come out with something like that for a PC. I can possibly see an issue with condensation unless there is an option to increase the cooling in small increments.


DICE is Dry Ice cooling, you mix Dry Ice and Acentone into a pot like an LN2 pot, there is DICE pots available but you can use an LN2 pot. Dice does not get as cold as LN2 and therefor will not clock the same, it is also more dagerous to handle. However it is easier to obtain and slightly cheaper due to storage needs of LN2 and price of DICE vs LN2.

Waterchillers come in different ranges. You can get a water chiller for aquariums that is adjustable and can get below ambient but not below 0c. You can also build a water chiller that can get to about -40c (maybe more however hard to find liquid) they work the same as a phase expect for they chill the water instead of the CPU directly. Waterchillers can be built and have been that rival SS phases, however they are huge. The befeit to a subzero chiller is you can cool gpus as well.

Yes Condensation is a concern unless you build a Chill box, where the entire PC is kept at below 0c.

Check out the Extreme Cooling section here on OCN.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not sure what DICE is and I have never heard of a water chiller.... That might be because they are not really intended for PC use. I would need to have it fit in my case that is until I move into a bigger place. TBH I am surprised none of the companies that produce water coolers have not come out with something like that for a PC. I can possibly see an issue with condensation unless there is an option to increase the cooling in small increments.


http://www.overclockers.com/an-introduction-to-extreme-cooling/

There is a market for extreme cooling, but not big enough for companies to invest their money into. You can find a lot of valuable information in the cooling forums on here


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I would not recommend going over 1.6 even with phase, 1.65 would be okay for short term phase benching but that really is LN2 levels.
> 
> For 24/7 1.55 would be as high as I would go, Subzero with a phase is not the same as subzero with LN2.
> 
> 5.4 to 6.4 sounds about right for absolute maximum. With a good clocking chip you may be able to hit 5.2 - 5.3 on phase.
> 
> Your voltage is fine although I would not go 1.65 for more than just running some benches. Phase buys you some headroom over water as does a subzero waterchiller. However a phase will never get even close to a DICE clock and it cannot take those voltages, being under zero isnt the whole story. Chips react differently the further under zero they are, a SS stage will never hit clocks that a Cascade will either, with a triple cascade you may be able to get close to DICE clocks but never LN2. There is a large difference between your -30 and dices -80 and LN2s -140.


Thanks for chiming in









I was able to go as low as 1.45v on 5.0 but that caused minor instability issues while benching and short term stress testing.

I've read about the different chip reactions on "real" subzero cooling, but as said those aren't an option for 24/7 usage. I'm happy with 5.0 actually! That was the magical number that had to be achieved and the system does it lovely. Under folding conditions it is not possible though, the compressor is hot enough as is at normal working conditions (benching, gaming etc) and I had it fail once already trying to fold. Going to 4.0 at 1.40v was no problem though, and I'm sure 4.5 would be achievable too.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Thanks for chiming in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to go as low as 1.45v on 5.0 but that caused minor instability issues while benching and short term stress testing.
> 
> I've read about the different chip reactions on "real" subzero cooling, but as said those aren't an option for 24/7 usage. I'm happy with 5.0 actually! That was the magical number that had to be achieved and the system does it lovely. Under folding conditions it is not possible though, the compressor is hot enough as is at normal working conditions (benching, gaming etc) and I had it fail once already trying to fold. Going to 4.0 at 1.40v was no problem though, and I'm sure 4.5 would be achievable too.


Ya 5.0 on a hexacore is an awesome overclock







for sure and only running 1.5v will keep your chip alive longer.

You can get a cascade for extreme overclocks but they are kinda fiddly and very very expensive. If you dont know what that is, A cascade Phase means you have a phase change cooler cooing the condenser of another. This allows you to use colder freon in the second you can even goes as far as a triple or quadruple cascade, that will provide DICE range temps.

At Max, you can have a Phase housed in a case check out LD cooling. They make phases that are housed in the case they are very expensive and kinda loud though. Also its a very large case.


----------



## Laithan

Hi all.. just picked up one of these motherboards... time to upgrade my 790iU/X5470









*Now I need a CPU* that is as awesome as this motherboard.







In short I am looking to find the "best" CPU for this motherboard.

Coming from S775 there's a WHOLE LOT of choices of CPUs that appear to be compatible with this MB...In addition I am reading about ES chips possibly not being compatible with PCI-e 3.0..Then reading about how some Xeons are unlocked..I'm not familiar with steppings like I am with the quad cores (Are E0's still a valid stepping to look for?). I know there is 2011-v2 and 2011-v3. I'm getting pretty lost in all the info so I wanted to just ask for some recommendations here and flipping back several pages didn't seem to give me my answer.

** Overclock (clock speed) is most important to me
* At least 6 cores are preferred but if there's a reason to talk me out of it, I'm ok with that
* I am primarily a gamer so all I NEED are 4 cores (but looking for at least 6 to be more prepared for DX12/Vulcan improvements)*

I currently run a S771 Xeon in my S775 board so I'm aware that sometimes Xeons can be overclocked with great results. I am OK with having to MOD if required.

The black edition I just bought also comes with EK blocks installed so the motherboard/CPU will be under H2O

Thanks in advance!!


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Hi all.. just picked up one of these motherboards... time to upgrade my 790iU/X5470
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Now I need a CPU* that is as awesome as this motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In short I am looking to find the "best" CPU for this motherboard.
> 
> Coming from S775 there's a WHOLE LOT of choices of CPUs that appear to be compatible with this MB...In addition I am reading about ES chips possibly not being compatible with PCI-e 3.0..Then reading about how some Xeons are unlocked..I'm not familiar with steppings like I am with the quad cores (Are E0's still a valid stepping to look for?). I know there is 2011-v2 and 2011-v3. I'm getting pretty lost in all the info so I wanted to just ask for some recommendations here and flipping back several pages didn't seem to give me my answer.
> 
> ** Overclock (clock speed) is most important to me
> * At least 6 cores are preferred but if there's a reason to talk me out of it, I'm ok with that
> * I am primarily a gamer so all I NEED are 4 cores (but looking for at least 6 to be more prepared for DX12/Vulcan improvements)*
> 
> I currently run a S771 Xeon in my S775 board so I'm aware that sometimes Xeons can be overclocked with great results. I am OK with having to MOD if required.
> 
> The black edition I just bought also comes with EK blocks installed so the motherboard/CPU will be under H2O
> 
> Thanks in advance!!


Easy peasy 4930k or 4960x, both hexacores both overclockable. AFAIK there is no overclockable Xeon on this platform, IIRC the only overclockable Xeons are on LGA 775.

There is also no reason to get a Xeon on this platform unless you want more cores, or EEC memory. AFAIK the RIVBE doesn't support Xeons with more than 6 cores, anyway. Things have changed since 775 days







, go with the K or X hexacore I mentioned above and you will be a happy camper.

Edit: I checked into the Xeon thing and I was correct Intel now locks down all Xeons, you can squeeze a few MHZ out via BLCK but not much.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Easy peasy 4930k or 4960x, both hexacores both overclockable. AFAIK there is no overclockable Xeon on this platform, IIRC the only overclockable Xeons are on LGA 775.


Not true. There are overclockable Xeons for socket 2011 but they do not OC very well in comparison.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not true. There are overclockable Xeons for socket 2011 but they do not OC very well in comparison.


No there is not, you can OC them via BLCK however that endangers other components as BLCK ties into Memory, PCI, ECT. Also generally regraded as not a good idea Pre SkyLake (Skylake changes this). So at best you could get a few more MHZ and cost loads of other issues in the process.

Modifying the BLCK does not make it an Overclockable chip, it is not an OCable chip nor has there been an Overclocakble Xeon since LGA775. Any chip can be BLCK OC'ed, I3s, Pentiums, Celerons.

But if you know of a chip I do not please share, However everything on the net about it and Intel themselves say no. Xeons are completely locked down, No Multi, No Strap.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not true. There are overclockable Xeons for socket 2011 but they do not OC very well in comparison.


They OC very well, I benched up to 5GHz with my 8 core Xeon on the Rampage IV Black.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> No there is not, you can OC them via BLCK however that endangers other components as BLCK ties into Memory, PCI, ECT. Also generally regraded as not a good idea Pre SkyLake (Skylake changes this). So at best you could get a few more MHZ and cost loads of other issues in the process.
> 
> Modifying the BLCK does not make it an Overclockable chip, it is not an OCable chip nor has there been an Overclocakble Xeon since LGA775. Any chip can be BLCK OC'ed, I3s, Pentiums, Celerons.
> 
> But if you know of a chip I do not please share, However everything on the net about it and Intel themselves say no. Xeons are completely locked down, No Multi, No Strap.


My Xeon 1680 V2(IVB-E) is totally unlocked like a 4960x.

Here is a recent bench of my cpu @5GHz:

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1406832/single-gpu-fire-strike-top-30/1810#post_24828745*


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> They OC very well, I benched up to 5GHz with my 8 core Xeon on the Rampage IV Black.
> My Xeon 1680 V2(IVB-E) is totally unlocked like a 4960x.
> 
> Here is a recent bench of my cpu @5GHz:
> 
> *http://www.overclock.net/t/1406832/single-gpu-fire-strike-top-30/1810#post_24828745*


Welp yep there is an unlocked Xeon I stand corrected and that thing is fricking Awesome!!!!! How have I never heard of this golden Chip that is going to put me in the poor house.

+Rep that is awesome.

Well that dream ended quickly that thing cost more than buying an entire X99 setup with a 5960x lol.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Hi all.. just picked up one of these motherboards... time to upgrade my 790iU/X5470
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Now I need a CPU* that is as awesome as this motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In short I am looking to find the "best" CPU for this motherboard.
> 
> Coming from S775 there's a WHOLE LOT of choices of CPUs that appear to be compatible with this MB...In addition I am reading about ES chips possibly not being compatible with PCI-e 3.0..Then reading about how some Xeons are unlocked..I'm not familiar with steppings like I am with the quad cores (Are E0's still a valid stepping to look for?). I know there is 2011-v2 and 2011-v3. I'm getting pretty lost in all the info so I wanted to just ask for some recommendations here and flipping back several pages didn't seem to give me my answer.
> 
> ** Overclock (clock speed) is most important to me
> * At least 6 cores are preferred but if there's a reason to talk me out of it, I'm ok with that
> * I am primarily a gamer so all I NEED are 4 cores (but looking for at least 6 to be more prepared for DX12/Vulcan improvements)*
> 
> I currently run a S771 Xeon in my S775 board so I'm aware that sometimes Xeons can be overclocked with great results. I am OK with having to MOD if required.
> 
> The black edition I just bought also comes with EK blocks installed so the motherboard/CPU will be under H2O
> 
> Thanks in advance!!


there is ONE 8 core unlocked xeon afaik, i never looked into less cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not true. There are overclockable Xeons for socket 2011 but they do not OC very well in comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> They OC very well, I benched up to 5GHz with my 8 core Xeon on the Rampage IV Black.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> No there is not, you can OC them via BLCK however that endangers other components as BLCK ties into Memory, PCI, ECT. Also generally regraded as not a good idea Pre SkyLake (Skylake changes this). So at best you could get a few more MHZ and cost loads of other issues in the process.
> 
> Modifying the BLCK does not make it an Overclockable chip, it is not an OCable chip nor has there been an Overclocakble Xeon since LGA775. Any chip can be BLCK OC'ed, I3s, Pentiums, Celerons.
> 
> But if you know of a chip I do not please share, However everything on the net about it and Intel themselves say no. Xeons are completely locked down, No Multi, No Strap.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My Xeon 1680 V2(IVB-E) is totally unlocked like a 4960x.
> 
> Here is a recent bench of my cpu @5GHz:
> 
> *http://www.overclock.net/t/1406832/single-gpu-fire-strike-top-30/1810#post_24828745*
Click to expand...

as shown above, certain people will spout falsities though you have to be careful esp when it comes to ocing xeons, ( or anything really ) but when i searched for it i found after comparing from different sites and chatting with people i know and trust that most info out seems to be people BSing their way through it , EVEN INTEL ARK can and has INTENTIONALLY put out false info ( i spent awhile checking in to this and other things for other projects !!!! ) in the next year or so i wanna buy one of the 8 cores would be fun to play with

2011-3 is A DIFFERENT socket,

DO NOT GET a 2011-3 chip it will not fit/work !


----------



## Laithan

Thanks everyone! +REP

I think it comes down to 2 processors:

☞ *i7-4960X Extreme Edition (6 cores unlocked)*
☞ *Xeon E5-1680 V2 (8 cores unlocked)*

But I have 2 questions left:
(1) Is the E5-1660V2 also unlocked? It's the 6-core version of the CPU above ^
(2) Are engineering sample chips (ES) something I should try to avoid? Since I'm looking at a 4960X the multi is unlocked anyway so there's no advantage there. The price for this ES is suspiciously low. Is this going to be essentially identical to the 4960X OEM version or should I avoid a 4960X ES?

What do you think about this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Core-i7-4960X-Extreme-Edition-ES-3-3-4-0GHz-6C-15M-Unlocked-X79-3960X-/191799995945?hash=item2ca82bae29:g:qPkAAOSw5dNWmJ3a

The web is full of mud on this subject
















:


----------



## Kimir

Finding the 8c xeon is really hard, at least over here. Plus it will be very pricey (should be less than going x99 with 5960x, MB and DDR4 tho, or there is no point on hunting for that lol).
ES have no warranty, avoid this particular one you linked... [email protected] is


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Thanks everyone! +REP
> 
> I think it comes down to 2 processors:
> 
> ☞ *i7-4960X Extreme Edition (6 cores unlocked)*
> ☞ *Xeon E5-1680 V2 (8 cores unlocked)*
> 
> But I have 2 questions left:
> (1) Is the E5-1660V2 also unlocked? It's the 6-core version of the CPU above ^
> (2) Are engineering sample chips (ES) something I should try to avoid? Since I'm looking at a 4960X the multi is unlocked anyway so there's no advantage there. The price for this ES is suspiciously low. Is this going to be essentially identical to the 4960X OEM version or should I avoid a 4960X ES?
> 
> What do you think about this one?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Core-i7-4960X-Extreme-Edition-ES-3-3-4-0GHz-6C-15M-Unlocked-X79-3960X-/191799995945?hash=item2ca82bae29:g:qPkAAOSw5dNWmJ3a
> 
> The web is full of mud on this subject
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Honestly I would just go with a 4930k, I personally just cannot justify an X unless its adding cores. The price difference for a 4930k vs a 4960x to me just isnt worth it. It is double the price but it will double your Epeen but thats about all it will do.

With the X99s having less pcie lanes gives a reason for the 30k, having 8 cores gives a reason for the X, In the Ivy range I just don't see the money.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there is ONE 8 core unlocked xeon afaik, i never looked into less cores
> as shown above, certain people will spout falsities though you have to be careful esp when it comes to ocing xeons, ( or anything really )


I think Madmax, did not know of that Xeons existence, neither did I. What he said is correct for every other Xeon as they are OCed by BLCK. I think that is to what he was referring as he uses a Xeon that is not unlocked, and has overclocked it by BLCK. He isnt incorrect, he just didn't have knowledge of that unlocked Xeon, neither did I, for all the rest of Xeons on the x79 platform he is correct, as am I.

Also to be honest at this point in time, that xeon is outside of anyones wants or it should be. With Broad well Decacores right around the corner, you could buy a 17 6990x (or whatever they call it) and a new board/ram for less than that Xeon so its values is long since lost.


----------



## Laithan

Thanks for everyone's input it has been very helpful. Since I've been researching for the past couple hours reading on and on I can at least share what I've found.

I'm looking at 2 entirely different CPUs now in addition to the godly E5-1680V2 that are also apparently unlocked even though intel says they are not









Here are the differences between the CPUs. First 2 are both 6 core, one has 3 more MB cache and higher default clock speed. Last one is 8 core.
http://ark.intel.com/products/75780/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-1650-v2-12M-Cache-3_50-GHz
http://ark.intel.com/products/75781/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-1660-v2-15M-Cache-3_70-GHz
http://ark.intel.com/products/77912/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-1680-v2-25M-Cache-3_00-GHz

It seems that the *E5-16xx series Xeons are unlocked across V1, V2 and V3* (_I am only interested in the V2 series_). I have seen screenshots confirming *E5-1680 V2 unlocked*, *E5-1650 V2 unlocked* but not E5-1660 V2...although I saw others mention they are "all" unlocked, meaning the entire 16xx V2 series. I would love a screenshot confirmation that E5-1660 V2 is unlocked but haven't found one...

I am thinking the only major difference would be the additional cache.. which I'm not sure is worth an extra $200 for the price difference between 1650 and 1660...

1650 V2
http://valid.x86.fr/s4qjuc


Spoiler: source links



http://www.overclock.net/t/1564465/psa-unlocked-8core-for-x79-if-you-cared
http://www.overclock.net/t/1580006/are-all-xeons-unlock
http://www.overclock.net/t/1550674/list-of-unlocked-lga-2011-es-xeons
http://www.overclock.net/t/1496856/the-mystery-behind-unlocked-xeons


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Thanks for everyone's input it has been very helpful. Since I've been researching for the past couple hours reading on and on I can at least share what I've found.
> 
> I'm looking at 2 entirely different CPUs now in addition to the godly E5-1680V2 that are also apparently unlocked even though intel says they are not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the differences between the CPUs. First 2 are both 6 core, one has 3 more MB cache and higher default clock speed. Last one is 8 core.
> http://ark.intel.com/products/75780/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-1650-v2-12M-Cache-3_50-GHz
> http://ark.intel.com/products/75781/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-1660-v2-15M-Cache-3_70-GHz
> http://ark.intel.com/products/77912/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-1680-v2-25M-Cache-3_00-GHz
> 
> It seems that the *E5-16xx series Xeons are unlocked across V1, V2 and V3* (_I am only interested in the V2 series_). I have seen screenshots confirming *E5-1680 V2 unlocked*, *E5-1650 V2 unlocked* but not E5-1660 V2...although I saw others mention they are "all" unlocked, meaning the entire 16xx V2 series. I would love a screenshot confirmation that E5-1660 V2 is unlocked but haven't found one...
> 
> I am thinking the only major difference would be the additional cache.. which I'm not sure is worth an extra $200 for the price difference between 1650 and 1660...
> 
> 1650 V2
> http://valid.x86.fr/s4qjuc
> 
> 
> Spoiler: source links
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1564465/psa-unlocked-8core-for-x79-if-you-cared
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1580006/are-all-xeons-unlock
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1550674/list-of-unlocked-lga-2011-es-xeons
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1496856/the-mystery-behind-unlocked-xeons


Okay well this is awesome, That is on water...... his loop also isnt even that good lol. Kind of hard to read, but its 4.698mhz with a voltage of 1.488 ya if I could get close to that speed well that makes me want one.



Anyway on to your needs of a 1660 overclocked.



That is on LN2 but its proof it is overclock able, How have I never seen this.... I am buying one lol.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I would love a screenshot confirmation that E5-1660 V2 is unlocked but haven't found one...


1660 v2 is unlocked:

*http://hwbot.org/submission/2500360_steponz_cinebench___r15_xeon_e5_1660_v2_1631_cb*

edit:

Cyber Locc beat me to the punch.

There was a 1603 V2 that someone posted a few months back, it wasn't unlocked. so I think not all 16xx are unlocked.

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1564465/psa-unlocked-8core-for-x79-if-you-cared/60*


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1660 v2 is unlocked:
> 
> *http://hwbot.org/submission/2500360_steponz_cinebench___r15_xeon_e5_1660_v2_1631_cb*
> 
> edit:
> 
> Cyber Locc beat me to the punch.
> 
> There was a 1603 V2 that someone posted a few months back, it wasn't unlocked. so I think not all 16xx are unlocked.
> 
> *http://www.overclock.net/t/1564465/psa-unlocked-8core-for-x79-if-you-cared/60*


Ya from what I am seeing its only the 3, 1650,1660,1680 however V1, 2, 3 of all of them are unlocked. That is freaking amazing, seriously I wish I would of known this sooner as it also has the ability to rectify the X99 situation for me, little late now as I am waiting for another Black Edition at this point. However I didnt go x99 as I didnt want to be robbed for some PCI E lanes, I am a cheap skate







.

However the 1650v3 is a hexacore and has 40 lanes.

Edit: never mind intel thought of that and listed the 1650v3 at 500 too lol, and the 1620v3 is a quad core, and we are not sure its unlocked?
Edit Again: 1620 is not unlocked none of them I think, the V3 for sure.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Yeah these Xeon are getting me all excited all of a sudden since I first got this 1680 V2 last summer. Bought a W3520 for $20 for my 1366 system recently, yesterday ordered a 6 core x5670 for the same system.

Think I'm a Xeon guy from now on!









It's worth buying a cheap x79 board and getting a cheap SB-E Xeon to have a nice back up system.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Yeah these Xeon are getting me all excited all of a sudden since I first got this 1680 V2 last summer. Bought a W3520 for $20 for my 1366 system recently, yesterday ordered a 6 core x5670 for the same system.
> 
> Think I'm a Xeon guy from now on!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's worth buying a cheap x79 board and getting a cheap SB-E Xeon to have a nice back up system.


Dude i was looking at the 1650 SB's there 150 on Ebay there is even some ES's on there. Shoot for that price I will be more than happy to blow some up. I have been waiting for this 4820k to blow up but it just wont happen thing is stupid resilient. When I bought it I was being a cheap skate and then wanted a 4930k but... Now when I try to do it I am like well it works just fine, so I figured if it blows I will get a 4930k. I then upped the voltage to 1.52 and benched it and run it at close to 1.5 24/7 I mean I have it set to 1.45 but with Extreme LLC its pulling more like 1.486 in CPU Z, darn thing still wont blow.....

Its been running for over 2 years now 24 hours a day pumping that voltage and it is still perfect, Everyone screams DONT GO OVER 1.4 it will degrade the chip, well ya I have yet to see that, maybe if you plan to keep it for 6 years lol.


----------



## Rayce185

Is this list valid or is there anything missing?

http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-ASUS/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION.html


----------



## Ftimster

That shows you how long I've been out of the game LOL any news on bios updates I'm still running 403 without a problem with a 4.8 overclock anyone? Advice would be much appreciated if you ain't broke don't fix it perhaps


----------



## Ftimster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> SB-E needed the registry hack, IVB-E(4960x) doesn't need it as pci-E 3.0 is already implemented.


That shows you how long I've been out of the game LOL any news on bios updates I'm still running 403 without a problem with a 4.8 overclock anyone? Advice would be much appreciated if you ain't broke don't fix it perhaps


----------



## Rayce185

So what are the advantages of the Xeons on this board xompared to an equivalently specced 4930K, for example?

Do they clock better? Fold better? Better for rendering or video editing?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> So what are the advantages of the Xeons on this board xompared to an equivalently specced 4930K, for example?
> 
> Do they clock better? Fold better? Better for rendering or video editing?


I am seeing some claims that they overclock better, however it's hard to find people using them so take that with a grain.

Other than that basic xeon benefiets, ECC Memory, a larger cache and a few more instruction sets.

As for how that pans out in real world that heavily depends if you use ECC memory with the chip (does a rivbe support ecc?). And if the program in question can support the other instruction sets or benefited from a higher cache.

In the cases you listed yes I think there may be some gains in those uses.


----------



## Laithan

I ordered an *E5-1650 V2* so I'll report back once I get everything assembled on the bench.









I think this is a really good topic to be honest because IMHO the ONLY REASON I am still running on this X5470 (with (2)980Ti's on blocks) is because intel has rested on their laurels for about 8 years (or we're simply screwed and CPUs will never get significantly faster.. _think that new 5.1Ghz Xeon is B$??_). When X79 lauched it was crazy expensive and the lame X99 is making it easier to get into X79









As far as *my* experience with S775, *my Xeon X5470 was a night/day difference* with regard to overclocking ability compared to my previous *Q6600, Q9550 and QX9770 CPUs* in the same motherboard using the same ram. The X5470 has a 10x multi stock which means it is *practically* an unlocked CPU so no an X5470 isn't 100% unlocked but with a 10x..who cares







.

All I could get out of my QX9770 was 4.2Ghz no matter what (maybe it was a dud.. I don't know..) and with the X5470 I'm getting almost 4.6Ghz. Same exact system and components just a CPU change. I haven't run out of O/C headroom either yet my temps are just too high to go further. In addition (surprisingly) I was able to run my *memory* at higher speeds with the Xeon X5470 than I could with the QX9770 (I am not sure why, these CPUs do NOT have an integrated memory controller). I'll include some screenshots for those who remember S775, I'm pretty proud of this one (and yes I'm using 4 sticks of ram).If you are familiar with the 775's and especially the 790i Ultra chipset you can agree this is no easy task. Look at the memory latency, top of the pack beating CPUs that DO have an integrated memory controller.











Spoiler: My Xeon X5470



right-click and open in new tab for hi-res



Not too shabby











AFAIK *ALL* the Xeons are going to be higher bins and for that reason alone better overclocking is possible. It is also silicon lottery of course. When you get a Xeon that has an *unlocked Multi, I would consider that the "Holy grail" of CPUs*... I really can't say from personal experience as I've only owned one Xeon but my results seem to be on par with what others also get. I really don't think I was all that "lucky" I just took the time to tweak. I am just one person but I think if running a Xeon was just completely pointless there wouldn't be nearly as much buzz about doing it as there is.. It is definitely possible, people are doing it and for socket 775 is was HANDS DOWN the best choice to run on that platform. The QX9770 doesn't even come close.

I'm betting on another round of Xeon success with S2011! Good times! We shall see!









EDIT: Adding this nugget http://news.softpedia.com/news/Intel-May-Release-Unlocked-Xeon-E5-CPUs-in-2012-236174.shtml


----------



## Rayce185

The RIVBE doesn't seem to support ECC memory.... Does that influence the Xeons performance or capabilities (for consumer standard usage) in any way?

An X5470, nice!
I'm running an Q9650 in the secondary but never dared to clock it higher then 3.4 GHz although I'm running 1200MHz memory and the multiplier at 8.0 (3.2GHz)... Usually the setup runs at 9x with the memory at 800MHz, so 3.0GHz.
I have no idea about the voltages of that system anymore though...


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> The RIVBE doesn't seem to support ECC memory.... Does that influence the Xeons performance or capabilities (for consumer standard usage) in any way?
> 
> An X5470, nice!
> I'm running an Q9650 in the secondary but never dared to clock it higher then 3.4 GHz although I'm running 1200MHz memory and the multiplier at 8.0 (3.2GHz)... Usually the setup runs at 9x with the memory at 800MHz, so 3.0GHz.
> I have no idea about the voltages of that system anymore though...


No it doesnt, it changes one aspect of why a Xeon is better. The Xeon still has F16C and EM64T instruction sets which the I7 does not.

However in the case of the 1650v2 it actually has less cache than a I7 4930k,

Here is a good comparison http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Xeon-E5-1650-v2-vs-Intel-Core-i7-4930K

The I7 wins in Geek bench single and multi, with the Xeon winning in AES single.

I do have to agree with Laithan, I do believe that Xeons are binned better so may overclock better.

The man to ask would be tooshort as he seems to have a few Xeons and I assume I7s as well.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> No it doesnt, it changes one aspect of why a Xeon is better. The Xeon still has F16C and EM64T instruction sets which the I7 does not.
> 
> However in the case of the 1650v2 it actually has less cache than a I7 4930k,
> 
> Here is a good comparison http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Xeon-E5-1650-v2-vs-Intel-Core-i7-4930K
> 
> The I7 wins in Geek bench single and multi, with the Xeon winning in AES single.
> 
> I do have to agree with Laithan, I do believe that Xeons are binned better so may overclock better.
> 
> The man to ask would be tooshort as he seems to have a few Xeons and I assume I7s as well.


Hm interesting. I have no clue how those instructions affect performance and what programs would benefit from it... Maybe they only work with ECC memory?

Also the OC speed on water seems to be way off for the Xeon on that page. I'd also be interested to see a comparison of the two when folding, but I'm sure the difference would be marginal.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Hm interesting. I have no clue how those instructions affect performance and what programs would benefit from it... Maybe they only work with ECC memory?
> 
> Also the OC speed on water seems to be way off for the Xeon on that page. I'd also be interested to see a comparison of the two when folding, but I'm sure the difference would be marginal.


I think you would have to check on a program to program basis, I am honestly not sure either.

On CPU boss? or the ones I linked? 4.7ghz with his not very large loop is very high for an i7 4930k that it would compare to. Most people with 4930ks are very lucky to hit 4.5, or at least thats the most they run it at.


----------



## Shadowarez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftimster*
> 
> That shows you how long I've been out of the game LOL any news on bios updates I'm still running 403 without a problem with a 4.8 overclock anyone? Advice would be much appreciated if you ain't broke don't fix it perhaps


Dont update or if do switch the bios to 2nd one i updated thinking oh great a update must bring good things. NOPE basily limited my oc to 4.5ghz was running 4.8ghz like you with a nice 1.29 vcore 1.15 llc but since upgrading and downgrading i cannot get it stable same way i had it.

When i built my sig rig it went together in under a hour oced to 4.8ghz very easily temps wrre in mid 50's under load (H320 swiftech) and all was great then i decided upgrade bios oh looknsays stability and raid rom performance increase great cant possibly be bad thing.

was i wrong or what ill never update a asus bios like that again. Even the 2nd bios was affected of well learn from my mistake dont fix ehat aint broke cant stress that enough.


----------



## Mega Man

I have not had any issues, I bet you need to mess with some secondary settings post some bios screens esp Digi controls since release I have had no issues running 3930k 4.8, ( was 4.7 till I figured out the secondary stuff ) 1.4v vcore ( wanna say it is actually 1.414 but in china atm ) llc high (iirc) 2400 ram and I update with every bios released

It is possible your chip aged however many people say they do that.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I think you would have to check on a program to program basis, I am honestly not sure either.
> 
> On CPU boss? or the ones I linked? 4.7ghz with his not very large loop is very high for an i7 4930k that it would compare to. Most people with 4930ks are very lucky to hit 4.5, or at least thats the most they run it at.


I guess the IB-E really produces massive heat.

Benching at 5.0 the temp goes up to +15C on realtemp, whereas the phase changes thermometer still reads around -30C. Either I'll have to reseat or get an extra temp sensor and hook it up to the board.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Dont update or if do switch the bios to 2nd one i updated thinking oh great a update must bring good things. NOPE basily limited my oc to 4.5ghz was running 4.8ghz like you with a nice 1.29 vcore 1.15 llc but since upgrading and downgrading i cannot get it stable same way i had it.
> 
> When i built my sig rig it went together in under a hour oced to 4.8ghz very easily temps wrre in mid 50's under load (H320 swiftech) and all was great then i decided upgrade bios oh looknsays stability and raid rom performance increase great cant possibly be bad thing.
> 
> was i wrong or what ill never update a asus bios like that again. Even the 2nd bios was affected of well learn from my mistake dont fix ehat aint broke cant stress that enough.


I am with Mega Man, I do not see the bios causing that issue nor would it affect both, something else is going on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> I guess the IB-E really produces massive heat.
> 
> Benching at 5.0 the temp goes up to +15C on realtemp, whereas the phase changes thermometer still reads around -30C. Either I'll have to reseat or get an extra temp sensor and hook it up to the board.


those temps sound right. The phases thermoter tells you how cold the block is, real temp is telling you the temp of the CPU the CPU will always be hotter than the block by quite a bit while under full load.

Your temps are fine, dont worry







.


----------



## Rayce185

Would delidding help?

And I'm really bothered that the third PCIe slot only runs at x8. PPD really goes down when folding on all three by 25% compared to just folding on two.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Would delidding help?


Well for one you cannot delid E series CPUS nor Xeons.

Delidding started because Desktop grade CPUs are now attached to there IHS with thermal paste.

However E series CPUs and Xeons are still soldered, so you cannot delid them and even if you could it wouldn't make much of a difference.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well for one you cannot delid E series CPUS nor Xeons.
> 
> Delidding started because Desktop grade CPUs are now attached to there IHS with thermal paste.
> 
> However E series CPUs and Xeons are still soldered, so you cannot delid them and even if you could it wouldn't make much of a difference.


I delidded a Q9550 back in the day which was soldered, it did make a difference in air... But I don't think I would risk it anyway without having the budget for a replacement


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> I delidded a Q9550 back in the day which was soldered, it did make a difference in air... But I don't think I would risk it anyway without having the budget for a replacement


Ya its really not worth the risk you may have load temps of 13 or 14 vs 15 not worth it at all.


----------



## Laithan

What perfect timing! I was wondering if I would be able to/want to delid my Xeon that the nice UPS man will bring me... Now I know that answer! Thank you Rayce185 for putting the answer to my question before I asked it


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Would delidding help?
> 
> 
> 
> Well for one you cannot delid E series CPUS nor Xeons.
> 
> Delidding started because Desktop grade CPUs are now attached to there IHS with thermal paste.
> 
> However E series CPUs and Xeons are still soldered, so you cannot delid them and even if you could it wouldn't make much of a difference.
Click to expand...

you can, but imo it isnt worth it, it is very dangerous to the cpu, and to have phase change direct to die is worth it ( again imo )
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=332705
http://www.overclock.net/t/1567957/fx-9590-show-and-tell/0_100

in all fairness i used to think that it was not possible either


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can, but imo it isnt worth it, it is very dangerous to the cpu, and to have phase change direct to die is worth it ( again imo )
> http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=332705
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1567957/fx-9590-show-and-tell/0_100
> 
> in all fairness i used to think that it was not possible either


Wow, that was seven years ago: http://www.overclock.net/t/537585/the-real-green-machine-lots-of-pics-have-fun-56k/0_100#post_6681654


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Wow, that was seven years ago: http://www.overclock.net/t/537585/the-real-green-machine-lots-of-pics-have-fun-56k/0_100#post_6681654


Enjoyed reading that









You put the TIM on the TEC lol


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can, but imo it isnt worth it, it is very dangerous to the cpu, and to have phase change direct to die is worth it ( again imo )
> http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=332705
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1567957/fx-9590-show-and-tell/0_100
> 
> in all fairness i used to think that it was not possible either


Thats pretty neat thanks for the links, I figured you "Could" just that it would be very diffucult and not really worth it, it would seem it isnt as difucult as I thought, as to the worth it however I am still not sold on that one lol.

Wouldn't condensation be a serious risk on a delidded chip? Didn't even think of this until now, do you just gum up the die? I need to look more into this







. Thanks guys for the info








.


----------



## Mega Man

iirc they use vasolene or other thermal grease/silicone ( like 111 - not talking kitchen silicone ) to transfer heat but as it is a grease iit prevents stuff like condensation around the die


----------



## seross69

Yeah but have not seen this done with direct die cooling on modern chips in a long time.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> iirc they use vasolene or other thermal grease/silicone ( like 111 - not talking kitchen silicone ) to transfer heat but as it is a grease iit prevents stuff like condensation around the die


I know they use dielectric grease or Vaseline to prevent condensation in the socket and such, however usually they use Art Eraser up to the IHS, to prevent the air under the block and between the board. I have very limited EXP with LN2 cooling but I have done it with friends a few times in college, looking to getting into hardcore very soon though







.

Thats what my current bench project is going to be for, it will have a serious amount of radage, and a full ln2 setup and maybe a water chiller custom built for -30c







. The water chiller was the OG plan just not sure its worth it for just benching though, at that point going straight LN2 DICE would be easier as similar steps are needed anyway. I also have been studying quite a bit (due to the waterchiller idea) into phase change building them, using them, both direct die and chilllers the past few weeks.

I have pretty much been through 90% of the past few years posts here and alot on other forums, but more so the whys and hows then actual use threads. So this subject is very appealing to me and any info on it deserves a rep so +rep (thats for the other post but this one will have to work lol)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yeah but have not seen this done with direct die cooling on modern chips in a long time.


That would explain why I haven't seen it in my research







. So do you think it is still worth doing or no? I wouldn't be doing on a phase I dont think but who knows, more than likely LN2/DICE maybe a waterchiller.

I prefer the idea of a water chiller to a phase as it can be almost as cold and cool the GPUs as well. I like the idea and it isnt that expensive (it is alot of work) for a DIY its just really large. The idea for my benching project as it is semi mobile, it is going to be built on a wire shelf rack with wheels the shelves are 24 inches by 24 inches. Fitting the converted AC isn't much a issue it is the Reservoir that is the problem as fitting that as well on a shelf is proving to be difficult. However I may just make the Waterchiller on its own shelving set and sit next to the other rack IDK atm, the waterchiller has the advantage of being classified as water at HWBOT, kinda cheap to use a chiller but from what I have been hearing most the higher ranked people do so I might as well too.

I may actually grab a phase due to the size of the chiller, the loop should handle the cards for non extreme benching. The loop on the bench is going to have everything QDCs and valves to where the CPU and GPU connections can be turned on (extends to the device) and Off (loops through). So this will I will be able to watercool cards and LN2 the CPu or vice versa, or WC the chipset while on LN2 or chiller/phase.

The loop is going to be 2 360mm EK XEs (in the bench itself) and 2 Phyoba 1260s, all with very fast fans (Headphones FTW







) like 3k on the 360s and 2ks on the 1260s so the loop should be up to a major cooling task hehehe.

I know its way overkill but its fun, Until I remember that this setup (bench, loop, blocks/pots ect.) is going to cost more than most spend on there entire PC hahaha. I ahve seriously been debating just using it as my main case as it will cost soooo much, however I most likely wont I just love throwing money away on cooling







.


----------



## Mega Man

Yea that's it. And I knew I was spelling Vaseline wrong but I couldn't find the right spelling, eating atm


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yea that's it. And I knew I was spelling Vaseline wrong but I couldn't find the right spelling, eating atm


I honestly didn't even notice lol.

I looked more at those links this looks fun, I may need to practice this on some Cheap AMD chips as the guy did say he killed a few.


----------



## Mega Man

@ShrimpBrime is nice talk with him, fair warning APU's have tim


----------



## Cyber Locc

Well bad day guys very bad day.....

So I was playing wicther and kept getting memory leaks, this was unusual but I thought okay I will see what is going on.

What was going on seems to be another problem. As I noticed that my pc was only showing 8gb of ram with 16gb installed.

So I started to check the dimms, ect and we'll that ddidnt work out so good. None of my ram sticks are working.

None of the dimm slots are working.

So I thought it was maybe the scratch that happened before, so I started taking stuff apart to check it all.

Well my board wont boot, at first just certain slots then in less lots slots now no slots. Any of my ram in any slot ends in no boot.

Anyway looks like I am in the market for a new board.... I am going to make a wanted post if anyone knows anyone let me know please.

However i want to ask could it be my cpu? I was getting error 56 which then turned into error 65 now i just get 65, everytime.


----------



## Rayce185

You're kidding! Did you fry your board?!









What clocks and voltages were you running?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> You're kidding! Did you fry your board?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What clocks and voltages were you running?


For the last few weeks stock as the bios was acting up and not keeping my clocks. Update as well, i took the cpu out and reseated it to see if that was the issue.

Now its giving me a 00 error.... I checked ebay and the only board up is 375 for a 4 year old used board ya I dont think so. I am not even sure if its the cpu or the board. So i am in a really awful situation now.

I do not know what to do. I was planning on upgrading to a broadwell e rig soon so is it even worth replacing. I do not know waht to do.


----------



## Rayce185

And I'm guessing you can't RMA the board anymore either, right?

4yo for $375?! I paid that amount in Euro for mine NEW last year!!!


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> And I'm guessing you can't RMA the board anymore either, right?
> 
> 4yo for $375?! I paid that amount in Euro for mine NEW last year!!!


Ya a launch board used lol, more like 175 hahaha. And ya no its oast warranty date and has chipset blocks.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ya a launch board used lol, more like 175 hahaha. And ya no its oast warranty date and has chipset blocks.


Sorry about your board.







Also keep an eye out for the RIVE. I'm buying one today or tomorrow for $138 locally.

Is your south bridge heatsink in mint condition, I like to try and get that off of you if you don't need it. Mine is all scratched up.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Sorry about your board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also keep an eye out for the RIVE. I'm buying one today or tomorrow for $138 locally.
> 
> Is your south bridge heatsink in mint condition, I like to try and get that off of you if you don't need it. Mine is all scratched up.


Ya it is pretty much, i just got it 2 months ago which it set in the box then a couple weeks ago i out it on. I got the whole chipset kit pretty much brand new acetal nickel. I will let you know in the next couple of day whatever i decide to do.

I wish i had another x79 board to test it. As if i do hold out i would want to sell the chip, but i dont want to sell it without knowing if it works or not.

Do you think it would be wrong to sell if and fully disclose that I am not sure if it works and if it doesnt i will refund ?

Sucks because i live in a small town and not many people round here with x79 lol.

Where would you guys put your money chip or board?? As i said it was having memory issues and then i took out the cpu and put it back in and now i get 00 so cpu error.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ya it is pretty much, i just got it 2 months ago which it set in the box then a couple weeks ago i out it on. I got the whole chipset kit pretty much brand new acetal nickel. I will let you know in the next couple of day whatever i decide to do.
> 
> I wish i had another x79 board to test it. As if i do hold out i would want to sell the chip, but i dont want to sell it without knowing if it works or not.
> 
> Do you think it would be wrong to sell if and fully disclose that I am not sure if it works and if it doesnt i will refund ?
> 
> Sucks because i live in a small town and not many people round here with x79 lol.
> 
> Where would you guys put your money chip or board?? As i said it was having memory issues and then i took out the cpu and put it back in and now i get 00 so cpu error.


If I was a betting man, _ESPECIALLY_ since you said you were running a _STOCK BIOS_ when it died, that it is the *MOTHERBOARD*.. I'm going with 90%+ chance IMO. There are so many more things that can go wrong with a MB and killing a CPU isn't exactly easy to do unless you overheat it or overvolt it. I have also had many motherboards over the years just die..like *** happened it was fine a second ago...I've been exactly where you are now









You may want to closely inspect caps. Sometimes they burst and possibly repairable. Did you pull it from the case yet? I've had MBs magically start working when I took them out of the case and put on the bench. Could unplug and pop the battery if you only jumper cleared.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I had 00 code before twice and it was the cpu both times.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I had 00 code before twice and it was the cpu both times.


Ya the 00 is a no cpu error, the CPU was pushing quite alot of voltage for a long time. Maybe I should buy a cheap xeon and try that first. Whats the cheapest xeon that would work in the board.

Thanks laithan, it is on a bench it was when this happened. I will take a look at the board more closely later tonite or tomorow. I bad bee, wanitng a skylake system to build a matx build for awhile so I jsed this a reason to snap one up, so i should have that soon as well to help qith any down time of this setup.

Gene 7 mmmm smexy


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ya the 00 is a no cpu error, the CPU was pushing quite alot of voltage for a long time. Maybe I should buy a cheap xeon and try that first. Whats the cheapest xeon that would work in the board.
> 
> Thanks laithan, it is on a bench it was when this happened. I will take a look at the board more closely later tonite or tomorow. I bad bee, wanitng a skylake system to build a matx build for awhile so I jsed this a reason to snap one up, so i should have that soon as well to help qith any down time of this setup.
> 
> Gene 7 mmmm smexy


Cheapest is the 8 core 2670 V1 that I bought from ebay for $63 plus shipping. Confirmed working on the R4BE.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Cheapest is the 8 core 2670 V1 that I bought from ebay for $63 plus shipping. Confirmed working on the R4BE.


Cool i will grab one of those in a couple weeks, if that dont. Work then i will try a new board







just blew all my spare cash on a skylake build for now.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Cheapest is the 8 core 2670 V1 that I bought from ebay for $63 plus shipping. Confirmed working on the R4BE.


I found one cheaper







40 bucks for a 2603 its only a quad core but it will work. The cheapest of the octa core is 125. Testing the board (even worse replacing it) will be the hard part. They want an arm and leg for it since its old tech, which makes little since to me how prices shoot up.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I found one cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 40 bucks for a 2603 its only a quad core but it will work. The cheapest of the octa core is 125. Testing the board (even worse replacing it) will be the hard part. They want an arm and leg for it since its old tech, which makes little since to me how prices shoot up.


If you by chance go for the 2670 then get the v2 version. I just got one for $63 on ebay.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> If you by chance go for the 2670 then get the v2 version. I just got one for $63 on ebay.


Will do, however i actually thinkits the board







. I just checked and again and didnt see any bent pins. However then i was looking at another angle a few mins later and there is a bent pin a very bent pin bent backwards. Dont know how i missed it or how the system worked solong with it but either way i think theboard is toast. So I will probally test board first.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Will do, however i actually thinkits the board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I just checked and again and didnt see any bent pins. However then i was looking at another angle a few mins later and there is a bent pin a very bent pin bent backwards. Dont know how i missed it or how the system worked solong with it but either way i think theboard is toast. So I will probally test board first.


That is exactly the same problem I had when I could not get my RAM to work correctly in XMP. I also barely noticed the bent pin and was actually pulling the light away when I noticed it.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> If you by chance go for the 2670 then get the v2 version. I just got one for $63 on ebay.


You mean c2 version, 2670 *v2* is the ib-e 10 core much more expensive version.


----------



## Rayce185

I was just wondering... a 2670v2 for $63?!









Are there any kind of stability tweaks that can help getting "cleaner" power to the PCIe ports? I'm guessing increasing the BLCK doesn't help performance-wise for GPU either, right?

By the way does anyone have a system running with any of these cards:
GTX Titan
GTX 780
GTX 680
GTX 770
GTX 960


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> You mean c2 version, 2670 *v2* is the ib-e 10 core much more expensive version.


oops! Brain to hand typo......lol


----------



## Cyber Locc

Well guys, I have decided to move to Skylake temporarily until the RVBEs release.







.

This sucks for me, I am sad to no longer be a proud owner of this wonderful board. Myabe 1 day I can rejoin the ranks







but I simply have too many projects going on to try and save this system atm.

Anyway this can be very good thing for 1 lucky member. I will be selling my pretty much brand new Chipset blocks. They are up in the For Sale/Cooling section. With the air sinks included as well, this is especially good if you want that blingy connections cover as using that with the blocks requires cutting it, so you get my cut one so yours stays perfect for RMA or going back to air







.

However as Tooshort asked, there is actually a dent/scracth are on my southbridge block. I did not notice it as I used the grey part of the Air sink on there to keep grey accents. It is all in a small spot, and is easily covered by the small ROG badge I had on the grey area (which I am also including).

Hope to see you all in the RVBE owners group when it comes out (super hoping it will). Its been fun guys









Cyber Locc.


----------



## Raghar

RMA board? RIV BE was released less than 3 years ago, and it has 3 years warranty in majority of countries.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well guys, I have decided to move to Skylake temporarily until the RVBEs release.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> This sucks for me, I am sad to no longer be a proud owner of this wonderful board. Myabe 1 day I can rejoin the ranks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I simply have too many projects going on to try and save this system atm.
> 
> Anyway this can be very good thing for 1 lucky member. I will be selling my pretty much brand new Chipset blocks. They are up in the For Sale/Cooling section. With the air sinks included as well, this is especially good if you want that blingy connections cover as using that with the blocks requires cutting it, so you get my cut one so yours stays perfect for RMA or going back to air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> However as Tooshort asked, there is actually a dent/scracth are on my southbridge block. I did not notice it as I used the grey part of the Air sink on there to keep grey accents. It is all in a small spot, and is easily covered by the small ROG badge I had on the grey area (which I am also including).
> 
> Hope to see you all in the RVBE owners group when it comes out (super hoping it will). Its been fun guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cyber Locc.


Why'd ya have to go an make us all teary-eyed n junk... *once a RIVBE owner always one!* unpack your bags! It's not like you bought a mac or something dude


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Why'd ya have to go an make us all teary-eyed n junk... *once a RIVBE owner always one!* unpack your bags! It's not like you bought a mac or something dude


Lol, I will probably grab another down the road when people are sane again with selling them lol. For now though I am anxiously waiting the RVBE


----------



## Laithan

I have a question... although I am asking after the fact because I already ordered 64GB (8x8GB), is the RIVBE similar to older chipsets where the memory speed/timing becomes more difficult to tweak when all of the memory slots are populated or is that crap buried with the old tech?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I have a question... although I am asking after the fact because I already ordered 64GB (8x8GB), is the RIVBE similar to older chipsets where the memory speed/timing becomes more difficult to tweak when all of the memory slots are populated or is that crap buried with the old tech?


Yep, that's how cpus are. So if you bought 2133MHz ram, you might need to down clock to 1866MHz with tighter timings. Or they could just work at there rated speeds because the cpu's IMC is very strong.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I have a question... although I am asking after the fact because I already ordered 64GB (8x8GB), is the RIVBE similar to older chipsets where the memory speed/timing becomes more difficult to tweak when all of the memory slots are populated or is that crap buried with the old tech?


Starter of this thread had IMMENSE problems with his 64 GB RAM. (But technically this platform can support up to 128 GB with last BIOS.)


----------



## Mega Man

Iirc he was pushing higher speeds. I have not heard of anyone having issues at 1600 though


----------



## Laithan

Thanks gents.. ok so more of the same.. 1600Mhz could be my "go to" safe spot initially. Well I guess 8 sticks will make memory tweaking interesting anyway (after dealing with 790i memory "sensitivity" I think I'm prepared for anything







). I'm getting an X1650 V2 so perhaps that will give me a bit of an edge for memory stability. I ended up buying 64GB because I won an auction I didn't expect to win (there's almost _ALWAYS_ someone waiting at the last second...this time, 8 hours went by and my bid stuck.. lol). I will have to figure out what to do with the ram now... other than stare at it during bootup







.. ..maybe make a ram disk for temp files or something. The board supports 128GB now, awesome... I didn't read that. I _did_ read that max memory speed got boosted from 2400Mhz but I bought 2400Mhz Ripjaws Z anyway... I don't have a memory bottle neck with my current system and DDR3 is only running at 1800Mhz so I don't think I'm missing anything by not getting the fastest memory supported. Plus like you said I'm likely just going to have to lower the speed for stability anyway.


----------



## Madmaxneo

So who here has added the extra optional thermal sensors to the board? I recently purchased some Evercool Thermal sensors and installed them (only had two because the seller didn't send me half my order). I put them in opt T 2 and 3. The RIVBE book indicates which lead is ground but the thermal sensors only have an arrow pointing to one of the leads but no where can I find what that indicates. I taped them to the two ASUS onboard heatsinks (one just over the CPU and the right between the SATA ports and the PCIe ports). But I immediately get negative temp results (right now they are both reading between -1 deg C and 0 deg C), I even switched one around just in case the ground actually had to be on ground. But there was no change in the readout....

Why am I getting so low readings?

Could this be because I may have them connected wrong or possibly because the heatsinks work so great?

Where else does anyone recommend I place them to monitor MB temps?


----------



## Mega Man

Sounds to me like the are the incorrect ohms for this board


----------



## Cyber Locc

Hey guys, So I have a question, how much you think a broken board for parts is worth?


----------



## Rayce185

Depends what you can scavenge off of it, I guess. Maybe $100?

I have a RIVE smeared up with silicon grease lying around here that has a few bent (but fixable) pins and has never seen a PSU, plus an according 3930K that's never been used either.

Actually the BE had three difficultly bent pins too when I accidentally dropped a corner of the 4930K on it (something jumpscared me). But it's running flawlessly 24/7 now









I don't know if I should ask in here but don't want to make a new thread about it: How is the fastest/easiest way to remove silicon/dielectric grease off?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Depends what you can scavenge off of it, I guess. Maybe $100?
> 
> I have a RIVE smeared up with silicon grease lying around here that has a few bent (but fixable) pins and has never seen a PSU, plus an according 3930K that's never been used either.
> 
> Actually the BE had three difficultly bent pins too when I accidentally dropped a corner of the 4930K on it (something jumpscared me). But it's running flawlessly 24/7 now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if I should ask in here but don't want to make a new thread about it: How is the fastest/easiest way to remove silicon/dielectric grease off?


Cool thanks, I do not know if I should throw it up on ebay or what lol. I had it sorted listed here in the threads of my other stuff but all that is gone now, and the few people I talked to said my price was too high (FIY it was much lower than your suggestion







) so IDK I guess Ebay bid it is.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> I don't know if I should ask in here but don't want to make a new thread about it: How is the fastest/easiest way to remove silicon/dielectric grease off?


I love this stuff, maybe it would work for you?
Arctic Silver ACN-60ML ArctiClean 1 & 2 Thermal Paste Remover Purifier


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Cool thanks, I do not know if I should throw it up on ebay or what lol. I had it sorted listed here in the threads of my other stuff but all that is gone now, and the few people I talked to said my price was too high (FIY it was much lower than your suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so IDK I guess Ebay bid it is.


How about trying here first to see what people offer? http://www.overclock.net/f/325/appraisals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I love this stuff, maybe it would work for you?
> Arctic Silver ACN-60ML ArctiClean 1 & 2 Thermal Paste Remover Purifier


The entire mobo is spray covered with the grease plus all creases in a 15cm radius around the CPU socket have it smeared in. I was thinking of getting a few liters of acetone and throwing everything into a tub to be honest...









Maybe I should start a thread in the specialized cooling section after all?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sounds to me like the are the incorrect ohms for this board


You've got to be kidding me. Is nothing universal anymore? It is a simple thermal sensor....this is ridiculous


----------



## seross69

What most things use is 10k ohms. not sure about the board as I never hook anything like that to one. need to check the ohms on the RTD's you bought and check the book on your M/B to see what it needs I would think it needs 10k RTD's.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> What most things use is 10k ohms. not sure about the board as I never hook anything like that to one. need to check the ohms on the RTD's you bought and check the book on your M/B to see what it needs I would think it needs 10k RTD's.


It doesn't say in the book. But I did notice something. Do I actually need to enable the temp monitoring in the BIOS? I thought I enabled it a while back and I am getting some kind of reading.....

EDIT: Never mind it is still enabled.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Depends what you can scavenge off of it, I guess. Maybe $100?
> 
> I have a RIVE smeared up with silicon grease lying around here that has a few bent (but fixable) pins and has never seen a PSU, plus an according 3930K that's never been used either.
> 
> Actually the BE had three difficultly bent pins too when I accidentally dropped a corner of the 4930K on it (something jumpscared me). But it's running flawlessly 24/7 now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if I should ask in here but don't want to make a new thread about it: How is the fastest/easiest way to remove silicon/dielectric grease off?


There is no fast and easy way lol. How do you do it, well a hair dryer (melt it to a liquid state, pour it out of the socket). Then use Electric Contacts degreaser, or Rubbing Alchol, and a toothbrush and then rinse with distilled.


----------



## Rayce185

Will an oven at 100-150°C do it too?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It doesn't say in the book. But I did notice something. Do I actually need to enable the temp monitoring in the BIOS? I thought I enabled it a while back and I am getting some kind of reading.....
> 
> EDIT: Never mind it is still enabled.


i Think the board would use 10k RTD's this is pretty standard for our hobby, but they do make RTD's in just about any range you want, I think koolance had some one time that was 25k but can not remember for sure. bad thing about buying from ebay sometimes. is that unless you read ad very carefully and really know what you need and want you can get into trouble with this. they are pretty cheap to buy anyway if I remember right.. if I was home I could send you a couple I know I have a million spares lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I love this stuff, maybe it would work for you?
> Arctic Silver ACN-60ML ArctiClean 1 & 2 Thermal Paste Remover Purifier


I also use this stuff and it is awesome!

*I have a question for all in this thread:*
I need a good 200mm fan that will work with the AI suite fan control for this MB. I have one that works quite well but it does not work with the AI suite as it apparently does not have variable speeds. This fan will be going in the front of my case to blow air into the case.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Mega Man

my advice- never use 200mm fans !


----------



## Rayce185

Get a decent 120mm and a shroud for it!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my advice- never use 200mm fans !


Why not?
The thing is a 200mm would fit perfect in that area and it blows over a wider area..... But I would like to hear your opinions (others also) as to why you do not recommend them.


----------



## Kimir

Because 200mm fan are not efficient. Get a good 140 instead. Eloop, Vardar and the like.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Why not?
> The thing is a 200mm would fit perfect in that area and it blows over a wider area..... But I would like to hear your opinions (others also) as to why you do not recommend them.


Smaller fans have a higher rpm and a focused area. The CFM is much more concentrated.

Larger fans have a LOWER rpm and a spread out area. The total CFM is not concentrated and therefore much less effective.

**IF** you were to get a 200mm fan that ran at 2,000 rpm just like the smaller fans do (more of a fair comparison) it would be like an air conditioner fan so forget quiet and watch your fingers


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Smaller fans have a higher rpm and a focused area. The CFM is much more concentrated.
> 
> Larger fans have a LOWER rpm and a spread out area. The total CFM is not concentrated and therefore much less effective.
> 
> **IF** you were to get a 200mm fan that ran at 2,000 rpm just like the smaller fans do (more of a fair comparison) it would be like an air conditioner fan so forget quiet and watch your fingers


First off I am not that concerned about noise as the air purifier (to keep the dust at a respectable level) runs 24/7. So far even when my system goes into turbo mode I can't really hear it....

Second, am I right in the following: I am still not that knowledgeable on fans but I do know there are two things in fans that are important, CFM and static pressure. Based on your statement I will assume that CFM is more important for standard airflow through the case and the static pressure is more important for radiators and the like.

Third, If not a 200mm fan could you recommend a 140mm fan and shroud that would work good for the front of the case? I assume the fan shroud has mounts for a 140mm fan in a 200mm space because I believe my case only has holes for a 200mm fan. FYI it is a Phantom 820.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> First off I am not that concerned about noise as the air purifier (to keep the dust at a respectable level) runs 24/7. So far even when my system goes into turbo mode I can't really hear it....
> 
> Second, am I right in the following: I am still not that knowledgeable on fans but I do know there are two things in fans that are important, CFM and static pressure. Based on your statement I will assume that CFM is more important for standard airflow through the case and the static pressure is more important for radiators and the like.
> 
> Third, If not a 200mm fan could you recommend a 140mm fan and shroud that would work good for the front of the case? I assume the fan shroud has mounts for a 140mm fan in a 200mm space because I believe my case only has holes for a 200mm fan. FYI it is a Phantom 820.


Nothing wrong with a 200mm fan to just move air IMHO. but I would be real hesitant to hook to mother board as start-up currant might be more than board can provide???


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Nothing wrong with a 200mm fan to just move air IMHO. but I would be real hesitant to hook to mother board as start-up currant might be more than board can provide???


I am thinking this board can handle it. Unless someone can point out otherwise.....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am thinking this board can handle it. Unless someone can point out otherwise.....


If I remember right the boards headers are good for max of 1 amp and I would be hesitant to get that close. The 180mm fans I had were all rated for right at 1 amp or above if I remember right. Personally I do not hook anything to the board that can take a chance of damaging it. Board is a lot more valuable to me than a fan plus I use other ways to control the fans. I have never had anything but problems from the Asus Suite to monitor or control anything. I tried it one time several years back and never again. I over clock through bios only and load nothing that has Asus name on it!!! Just me, no going to get burned again by them..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If I remember right the boards headers are good for max of 1 amp and I would be hesitant to get that close. The 180mm fans I had were all rated for right at 1 amp or above if I remember right. Personally I do not hook anything to the board that can take a chance of damaging it. Board is a lot more valuable to me than a fan plus I use other ways to control the fans. I have never had anything but problems from the Asus Suite to monitor or control anything. I tried it one time several years back and never again. I over clock through bios only and load nothing that has Asus name on it!!! Just me, no going to get burned again by them..


Yeah I have heard of others like that. but I also know of a few others that have no problem with the AI suite. I haven't had any problems either with the AI suite but I only use it for the wireless controls and the fan controls. It works quite well for me and monitors everything it is supposed to do effortlessly, at least as far as I can tell. I only use the BIOS for OCing and not the AI suite but it does report everything I change in the BIOS exactly to what I have it changed to.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah I have heard of others like that. but I also know of a few others that have no problem with the AI suite. I haven't had any problems either with the AI suite but I only use it for the wireless controls and the fan controls. It works quite well for me and monitors everything it is supposed to do effortlessly, at least as far as I can tell. I only use the BIOS for OCing and not the AI suite but it does report everything I change in the BIOS exactly to what I have it changed to.


I wish you the best and was just telling of my experiences. I would make sure what the amp draw is on the fans before I hooked them to the motherboard and this can be real hard to find!!

Another question??? I am in Singapore at work and it is 3pm but what are you doing up at 3am in the night?? I know what I am doing if I am up at 3am in the night and have learned not to do anything with computers at this time...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I wish you the best and was just telling of my experiences. I would make sure what the amp draw is on the fans before I hooked them to the motherboard and this can be real hard to find!!
> 
> Another question??? I am in Singapore at work and it is 3pm but what are you doing up at 3am in the night?? I know what I am doing if I am up at 3am in the night and have learned not to do anything with computers at this time...


I have not had any problems with fans whatsoever and I have been running this board for about a year now.

It is 1am where I am at and if I am up this late (or later) it is because I am on my computer. As far as other things, I haven't partied like that in over 10yrs...lol and yeah I remember coming home and trying to get on and play some games, and that didn't work out to well back then.....lol.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Does anyone here use PWM fans with this MB or otherwise?

Do they work better in your opinion?


----------



## Mega Man

Personal pref. They have their pluses and minuses. Neither are better nor worse


----------



## Madmaxneo

Good lord ASUS phone tech support is horrible. The guy I was talking to had no idea even what a thermal sensor is. He kept putting me on hold to talk to their actual technicians. That was ridiculous.

All I was trying to do was find what thermal sensors they recommend to work with the MB, then maybe I was going to ask about the limits to the amperage and the fans connected to the MB.... I think I was on the phone for about an hour and he was never able to answer my question.


----------



## Madmaxneo

If anyone here uses the optional thermal sensors for this board and they work which ones do you use and where did you order them from?


----------



## Mega Man

Aquacomputer or phobia make some, asus did as well


----------



## Laithan

Well my precious arrived today... ...complete with the pre-installed water blocks from the previous owner.







. It came with all the goodies too so hopefully it actually works too











so fair warning once I get all the "stuffnjunk" on order I might be pestering you all for some schooling









A while back we were talking about unlocked E5-16xx V2 chips.. We already know E5-1680 V2 is actually unlocked. I didn't know (didn't seem like others did not either) if E5-1650 V2 and E5-1660 V2 were unlocked. This may answer our question about that







I'm gambling the better bin will allow excellent overclocking with these motherboards.

E5-1650 V2



E5-1660 V2


----------



## Rayce185

It's... beautiful!
















I really need to install that mosfet water block. Pity that the RIVE chipset block doesn't fit the BE...


----------



## Rayce185

So... Quad Channel > Dual Channel on IB-E's? Will it make a noticable difference in performance or stability? I'm thinking of getting a second set of Platinums for RAMdisk purposes...


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> It's... beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really need to install that mosfet water block. Pity that the RIVE chipset block doesn't fit the BE...


Hey Rayce what batch number is your cpu?

Here is a list of batch numbers...
3320A829 ES 4.6GHz cinebench @ 1.4v
3325A911 4.9GHz cinebench @ 1.38, 5.2Ghz boot @ 1.536v - h2o
3325A911 4,7 GHz primestable @ 1,32v, 5.8GHz Vantage @ 1.7v - LN2 (?)
3325A911 6.14Ghz cinebench @ 1.696v - LN2
3325A911 4.5Ghz cinebench @ 1.2v
3326B662 4.65Ghz Vantage @ 1.43v - h2o
3326B662 6.0Ghz vantage @ 1.744v - LN2
3326B664 5.0GHz cinebench @ 1.256v SS cooling
3326B667 4.7Ghz Vantage @ 1.35v
3326A994 4.5Ghz cinebench @ 1.376v
3326A994 4.6 GHz cinebench @ 1.4V, 5GHz under SS @ -45 with 1.55v
3327A694 5.0Ghz cinebench @1.496v ss -40
3328B037 No 5 GHz boot below 1.50v
3328A983 4.6GHz cinebench @ 1.4v, 5650MHz 3DMark vantage @ 1.7v LN2, no CB
3331B498 4.3Ghz boot 1.5v
3331B507 5.0Ghz boot @ 1.46v
3331B507 4.7Ghz cinebench @ 1.376v
3331B514 5.6Ghz cinebench @ 1.7v - LN2
3331B514 4.6Ghz vantage 1.335v
3332B065 6.18Ghz boot @ 1.696v - LN2, 5.8Ghz vantage @ 1.68v - LN2
3332B065 4.8Ghz cinebench @ 1.376v
3332B081 4.7Ghz cinebench/vantage @ 1.35v, 6.0Ghz 3DM @ 1.744v - LN2 no CB/CBB
3333B186 4.8Ghz cinebench @ 1.36v - h2o, 5.8Ghz Pi32M @ 1.616v - LN2, no CB
3333B591 5.0Ghz cinebench @ 1.472v - h2o
3338B804 4.6Ghz Vantage @ 1.216v


----------



## Rayce185

J450C387

I guess it's a bit newer than what's on the list.


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> J450C387
> 
> I guess it's a bit newer than what's on the list.


Yeah it sounds like a good one anyhow.
Mine is 3325A911


----------



## Rayce185

Meh, I can't get it stable above 5.1 GHz and the RAM can't even reach 2500 even when upping the voltage to 1.7v or 1.75. Or maybe I just suck at overclocking...


----------



## Raghar

That's LN2 voltage right?


----------



## V3teran

Mine is just custom water, i have a good chip.
Build here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1505572/rampage-4-black-x79-watercooled-build


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> That's LN2 voltage right?


Well it was only to see if the system would boot stable, which it didn't... So I switched back down to 5.0 GHz @ 1.55v...

I tried fiddling with BLCK and lowered multipliers again, no chance. Sticking to 100MHz @ 50x and the stock 2400MHz RAM with XMP values (1.65v) just seems to work best. There was no difference changing the BLCK/multi ratio with 5.0GHz with increased RAM clock either in HWBot Prime, and only 100 points more in 3DMark 11, so I'll rather keep it safe with the RAM.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V3teran*
> 
> Mine is just custom water, i have a good chip.
> Build here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1505572/rampage-4-black-x79-watercooled-build


That's a really beautiful setup you have there! That nvidia midplate looks sweet! I didn't know something like that existed


----------



## V3teran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> That's a really beautiful setup you have there! That nvidia midplate looks sweet! I didn't know something like that existed


Thankyou.
i got it from here...
http://www.coldzero.eu/midplates/1488-900d-midplate-long-rev-3.html


----------



## Madmaxneo

I need some help in making a big decision.
I am interested in adding my MB to my cooling loop. I have this set by XSPC already to go and get installed. But I started thinking about the times when I may have to drain and fill my system or even worse have to clean out the loop. What gets me is that if I install that XSPC set then if I need to remove the rad for some reason or need to clean the loop I would have to remove that entire set off the MB along with the CPU block. Which means I will basically have to break my whole system down because I would need to remove the MB. That is could be a really time consuming project when I would have to undertake it. So I started thinking about quick connect fittings with that set and some of them can get really expensive. Then I remembered this waterblock set from Bitspower. That does look much nicer and there will be less fittings and less tubing involved and I would also get two sets of quick connect fittings for that. But then if I had to ever remove the CPU I would have to again go through the entire process of removing the MB to take that block out.I know the XSPC one requires screws mounting from the back of the MB so I assume the Bitspower one will be the same. . There just does not see to be an easy way around all of this. The reason this could be an issue is that I really don't have enough space. I literally have to drag my PC out from under my desk and onto the kitchen table to do the waterloop as it is now.

My primary reason for adding the MB to my loop is to hopefully achieve a greater OC on my CPU....

So my questions are:
1. Does adding the MB to a waterloop help with OCing at all? If not then what is the purpose behind doing that?
2. Is there an easier way to go about this or am I looking at it all wrong?

3. Can anyone recommend a good set of quick connect fittings that do not cost $30 or more (less expensive is better)?


----------



## Mega Man

Sounds like you need to make decisions
1 it can, cooler vrms generally equal cleaner, more efficient power, but not always.

2 fans, also ek makes/made a mono block for this board as well

3 no I can't, and I would not trust any that were cheaper anyway

Watercooling isn't always all pros, there are several cons you need to weigh your choices and decide what's best for you


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Id be running two loops one for cpu / mobo and the other for gpu's


----------



## Rayce185

So is it better to go CPU/MB+GPU instead of CPU+GPU/MB when going dual loop?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> So is it better to go CPU/MB+GPU instead of CPU+GPU/MB when going dual loop?


yes because usually the GPU will put out more heat than the CPU/MB...


----------



## justplainslow

Here how I did mine on that board.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> So is it better to go CPU/MB+GPU instead of CPU+GPU/MB when going dual loop?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes because usually the GPU will put out more heat than the CPU/MB...


The order in which you connect the loop..I keep reading "it doesn't matter".. seems to be a huge debate.

In my own personal opinion, having a RAD after CPU and before it goes into GPU (single loop) then another rad AFTER GPU before it goes into CPU makes sense. Then there is never anything feeding hot water directly into another peripheral. At least that's what my brain tells me









I had 2 loops and was going to go to one... should I reconsider? 2 GPUs, VRMs and chipset blocks too BTW


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Reservoir before pump, one rule.

Two loops, single loop, your preference.

EDIT...


----------



## Rayce185

TBH I don't remember how my setup is connected. I just went with the shortest tubing









GPU bridge-Rad-Pump. But as I can't remember in which direction the pump flows it may just be vice versa...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sounds like you need to make decisions
> 1 it can, cooler vrms generally equal cleaner, more efficient power, but not always.
> 
> 2 fans, also ek makes/made a mono block for this board as well
> 
> 3 no I can't, and I would not trust any that were cheaper anyway
> 
> Watercooling isn't always all pros, there are several cons you need to weigh your choices and decide what's best for you


Thanks.

3. This I understand all to clearly now. I am just worried about having to get to the CPU or other things often that may require removing or disassembling the loop.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I need some help in making a big decision.
> I am interested in adding my MB to my cooling loop. I have this set by XSPC already to go and get installed. But I started thinking about the times when I may have to drain and fill my system or even worse have to clean out the loop. What gets me is that if I install that XSPC set then if I need to remove the rad for some reason or need to clean the loop I would have to remove that entire set off the MB along with the CPU block. Which means I will basically have to break my whole system down because I would need to remove the MB. That is could be a really time consuming project when I would have to undertake it. So I started thinking about quick connect fittings with that set and some of them can get really expensive. Then I remembered this waterblock set from Bitspower. That does look much nicer and there will be less fittings and less tubing involved and I would also get two sets of quick connect fittings for that. But then if I had to ever remove the CPU I would have to again go through the entire process of removing the MB to take that block out.I know the XSPC one requires screws mounting from the back of the MB so I assume the Bitspower one will be the same. . There just does not see to be an easy way around all of this. The reason this could be an issue is that I really don't have enough space. I literally have to drag my PC out from under my desk and onto the kitchen table to do the waterloop as it is now.
> 
> My primary reason for adding the MB to my loop is to hopefully achieve a greater OC on my CPU....
> 
> So my questions are:
> 1. Does adding the MB to a waterloop help with OCing at all? If not then what is the purpose behind doing that?
> 2. Is there an easier way to go about this or am I looking at it all wrong?
> 
> 3. Can anyone recommend a good set of quick connect fittings that do not cost $30 or more (less expensive is better)?


Firstly, to answer your questions...

1: Unfortunately, in my experience, cooking your motherboard generally doesn't increase your ability to overclock. It is pretty well going to stay the same whether on water or air. All it will do is potentially increase the longevity of your components. The only increase you are likely to see is if you are really tweaking to get every last few mHz out of your processor, but if you are planning to get an extra 100mHz or more, then cooling the motherboard is mostly a waste of time, unless something is wrong with your board to begin with, but that isn't very likely at all

2: I find the monoblock to be much, much more of a PITA to deal with. Yeah, it's nice because there are fewer pieces of tubing/fittings, but then again, the monoblock really makes the whole thing look 'empty', I found that my XSPC block looked much better in terms of my build looking more... I don't know, just like there is more going on, so to speak. If the XSPC block worked with my board I would have gladly stayed with it, in retrospect, despite always wanting the EK monoblock I have now...

3: Unfortunately, there isn't much of an 'easy' way to do liquid cooling, probably the main reason that it isn't something that is mainstream, it is a bit of a challenge to plan out and implement a cooling loop properly. Especially when you are doing it in a confined space. For many people it takes weeks, and sometimes months of planning what parts to purchase, the fitment of each part, in many cases people use things like CAD or Google SketchUP in order to accurately plan out their systems, this is pretty much a prerequisite if you are building in a small case. Sadly, there are no inexpensive and safe to use quick-disconnects, unless you can find some used ones, you can always check the OCN marketplace to see if there are any for cheap in the cooling section, I have found them on occasion forpretty inexpensive, comparatively.

It seems like you need to take a step back and re-evaluate your approach, and make sure you have a clear plan and approach to how you will install everything.

Just take your time, don't rush into it, and take the advice of others with patience and understanding. Not everyone has the best solution, so make sure to get multiple thoughts and take in all suggestions, you'll get a lot of good input, but most of it is stuff you'll just have to figure out yourself, ESPECIALLY when you aren't building a custom loop, and are instead working off of a pre-built loop like the Swiftech unit.

I find that a lot of people think they can just jump into liquid cooling, and that it's all just plug-n-play and doesn't require any learning or effort, and get halfway through and realize it's a lot more involved than they thought it was.

As mentioned, take your time, do your research, make sure to learn what everything is, if you are not already, familiarize yourself with what every part is, and what they do, such as implementing a fill port/drain port, bulkhead fittings, male to female adapters, splitters, ball valves, temperature probes/fittings, plugs, the different purposes/uses for thermal paste and thermal pads, and all of the other items out there. Only you can decide what fittings to use based on the space constraints your case introduces, and even people with the same case can't tell you what you'll need, because the peripherals you have introduce different characteristics...

A good suggestion would be to just spend a few hours on Frozen CPU or the like, just browsing and getting familiar with all of the liquid cooling parts they have, just knowing what is available, and the purposes of each part is a HUGE step in the right direction.

I know we've spent a lot of time going over your build, and trying to sort out how to proceed, but it seems I have not been giving the specific advice that your build requires, hopefully by reaching out to everyone else in here (and be sure to tap a couple of other fortums/threads to get a more varied viewpoint on how to proceed) will help get your project moving along, and to give you the confidence to build without second-guessing yourself... That was my biggest problem when I started out, just lacking confidence, but once I did my research, and watched plenty of videos and tutorials to get me sorted out.


----------



## reev3r

Oh dang it, I am trying to do this on my phone and I thought my message got deleted, but now I see that a bunch of what I wrote still survived, making my message much longer than it was supposed to be, also, sorry if there is any duplicate paragraphs or ideas in there... Oops..


----------



## reev3r

I wanted to share a photograph of some of the parts we discussed in messages over the recent months, just because I have my rig torn apart and rebuilding my loop, I will share more as it comes together.



So, for reference, this will correspond fairly well to your XSPC block, the bottom portion is the chipset area, the large, center plate is the CPU, and the Top is the VRM/MOSFET area. I have color coded the blocks as follows:

Red: areas that require TIM/Thermal Paste

Blue: areas that require a thermal pad

Then some parts that we have discussed:

The green circle is a ball valve, which is typically used for a drain port, this should be attached to the lowest possible point in your loop, some people attach them directly to their reservoir, but that probably isn't an option in your case, which is why I recommended using a splitter to allow you to send the coolant off through the loop during normal operation through one side, and the other side of the splitter to the ball valve, and when you turn it off and open the ball valve it will allow the loop to almost completely drain.

The yellow circle is a fill port/bulkhead adapter. This part serves a dual purpose, it allows me to pass through any plate in my case (after drilling the requisite hole) as either just a pass-through for the loop, or alternatively, in the case of this particular one, allows me to run a piece of tubing directly from my reservoir to this part, which remains capped during mortal operation, but any time I need to top off my loop, or just for the initial fill, I can easily just fill it up without any hassle. You can also get fill funnels, which are basically a funnel with threads on it, allowing you to screw the funnel directly into the fill port for a nice seal.

Again, as I mentioned I will continue to add photographs of my rig as it comes together to hopefully help detail the process, and some of the concerns I already know you have. Hopefully documenting my reassembly will give you a better perspective on how to proceed.


----------



## Laithan

I figured I would share my Noctua NF-A14 FLX "*Black Edition*" with you













I'm still working on the process but I think it's 5000% better than the beige and tan original color in my BLACK themed build









Dyed, not painted and YES it still works 100%


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I figured I would share my Noctua NF-A14 FLX "*Black Edition*" with you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still working on the process but I think it's 5000% better than the beige and tan original color in my BLACK themed build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dyed, not painted and YES it still works 100%


Did you dye that yourself?
If so, how?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Firstly, to answer your questions...
> 
> 1: Unfortunately, in my experience, cooking your motherboard generally doesn't increase your ability to overclock. It is pretty well going to stay the same whether on water or air. All it will do is potentially increase the longevity of your components. The only increase you are likely to see is if you are really tweaking to get every last few mHz out of your processor, but if you are planning to get an extra 100mHz or more, then cooling the motherboard is mostly a waste of time, unless something is wrong with your board to begin with, but that isn't very likely at all


Yeah that was a bit much in reading...lol.

Maybe I didn't post it here but I decided to make each section a separate waterloop. I may have only posted that update in the Swiftech thread.
1 loop for the cpu, another loop for the GPU, and yet another loop for the MB. Makes it easier to do maintenance on each part if needed.

I changed out my loop on Thursday evening (2 days ago). I cleaned out the system using sysprep, changed the tubing to UV blue, changed out the fittings to the Phobya angled compression fittings, and used the Mayhems Xt-1 additive. So far no leaks and it looks like all the micro bubbles have finally disappeared. I also bled my loop out before installing it into my system so the water level has not gone down any.

The only issue I am having right now is initially my temps dropped like 5 deg to the low 30's high 20's,. but after a full day and a half the temps have increased back to where they were before. I am keeping an eye on everything for now. I may go in and drain the system out and shorten the tubing some and redo the thermal paste on the cpu just in case. When I installed it I wasn't sure which way the cpu block was supposed to sit and I installed it upside down...lol... well the logo is upside down so I'll have to fix that also......

I still have to install the UV lights. which I am realizing is not going to be easy because of the lighting system already in my case (phantom 820).

I have a question on SSD's and power usuage. Is it safe to connect two SSD's (or even HDD's) to a single power cable coming off my PSU? I have the EVGA G2 SuperNova 1000watt PSU.
The reason I ask this is because I discovered that I can reduce the amount of cables by combining at least two of my drives and dropping at least one power cable.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Did you dye that yourself?
> If so, how?


Yup did myself using Rit dye.









Will share some info also. I was initially researching how to take the fans apart to dye them and learned that the legacy Noctua fans can be taken apart quite easily however *the modern Noctua fans cannot* be taken apart without breaking them. There's really not much hope of 2-tone.. So if anyone thinks they can find a way, there is NO way and you *will* break the fan. The new modern Noctua fans are 100% sealed/glued. Don't bother removing the metal sticker either there is nothing behind it.

I was determined to get rid of this nasty beige and brown without having to buy new fans (I have 7 of these 140mm fans, do the math). If this were clothing I would need to use very hot distilled water (near boiling) and submerge the clothing and keep it under water for a while.. and these new Noctua fans being sealed is actually in a way making this easier to dye.

I just took a large pot that I was willing to throw away after I finished the dye project.. you really don't want to re-use the pot, so don't use your wife's best one!







. I filled it with DISTILLED water about a 1/4 inch higher than the fan's height, mixed it around and brought it to a boil (prepare to open windows or do this outside, the stuff stinks!) then put the setting on simmer to maintain a decent temp but stop boiling. I held the fan's wire and lowered in into the dye then took a metal clip and fastened the end of the wire to the top of the pot. Leave it there for at least an hour. When it was done I brought the pot over to the stainless steel sink (if you don't have stainless steel sinks, DON'T do this part) and rinsed the excess dye off with some distilled water then let dry (plan to get a LOT of distilled water it doesn't last long when rinsing).

After I let it dry for several hours I had to of course test to see if it still worked and it fired right up full speed perfectly balanced at full rpm. I'll be keeping an eye on my rpm monitor to see if the rpms change over time and let others know if you want me to be the guinea pig


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Yup did myself using Rit dye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I let it dry for several hours I had to of course test to see if it still worked and it fired right up full speed perfectly balanced at full rpm. I'll be keeping an eye on my rpm monitor to see if the rpms change over time and let others know *if you want me to be the guinea pig*


I think you volunteered to be the guinea pig already!

That is awesome if it worked. I have a noctua fan that is greyish and does contrast with the theme of my case I may try to take the fan apart at a later date. The theme I am working on is black with red accents for the MB and case and blue lighting (UV and normal) with red accent lighting here and there.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I think you volunteered to be the guinea pig already!
> 
> That is awesome if it worked. I have a noctua fan that is greyish and does contrast with the theme of my case I may try to take the fan apart at a later date. The theme I am working on is black with red accents for the MB and case and blue lighting (UV and normal) with red accent lighting here and there.


I'm going "ALL IN" with all 7 of my 140mm Noctuas and my 2 smaller ones. This will be a good test in case I just 'got lucky' with the first one. This will be 9 chances to see if it works


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have a question on SSD's and power usuage. Is it safe to connect two SSD's (or even HDD's) to a single power cable coming off my PSU? I have the EVGA G2 SuperNova 1000watt PSU.
> The reason I ask this is because I discovered that I can reduce the amount of cables by combining at least two of my drives and dropping at least one power cable.


In that post I didn't all the info. I already have more than one drive running off a single power cable but I have a single power cable providing power to a single 200mm fan and it's LED's in the front of the case. Would it be safe to plug that fan into one of the drive power cables?
II noticed the connectors used in the SATA power cable for the drives and the "peripherals" power cable have a different setup (meaning they both have a 6 pin connector to the PSU but on the "peripherals" one there are only 4 or 5 actual connections made).


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## funsoul

Late to the party (1338 pages?!?) but here's my validation: http://valid.x86.fr/rvu0gx


Best global sub for me atm: http://hwbot.org/submission/3150081


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## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funsoul*
> 
> Late to the party (1338 pages?!?) but here's my validation: http://valid.x86.fr/rvu0gx
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best global sub for me atm: http://hwbot.org/submission/3150081
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is an awesome score for the 4930k on LN2!

I'd love to get anything close to that but I do not have the room for all those wires hanging out nor do I want to have it all exposed like that.

How usable is that in everyday use and gaming?


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## funsoul

Thanks Madmaxneo!
Yeah..this setup is purely for benching. In a case, water-cooled, it'd do 5GHz 24/7 np (at around 1.30v).

Currently running a 3930k at 5 in my gaming rig and it chews through everything I throw at it. A 4930k like this one would be way overkill for gaming imho.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funsoul*
> 
> Thanks Madmaxneo!
> Yeah..this setup is purely for benching. In a case, water-cooled, it'd do 5GHz 24/7 np (at around 1.30v).
> 
> Currently running a 3930k at 5 in my gaming rig and it chews through everything I throw at it. A 4930k like this one would be way overkill for gaming imho.


You got a great chip there. My 4930k is limited to 4.3ghz at 1.37 vcore. I lost the silicon lottery with this one. I have a temp replacement chip for when I get to sending this chip in for the the Intel Tuning plan. But since it is only an E-2670 I loose out on a lot. XMP doesn't work and this Xeon chip is barely OCable with a max OC of about 3.3ghz, and it does not seem to support turbo mode!

Do you know of any socket 2011 chips that would be a decent temporary replacement for this board while I send the 4930k in? Something really inexpensive would be awesome.


----------



## funsoul

I didn't risk the lottery, ended up paying a premium (although, imho, still a great deal) for this one.

I'd go with a 3930k as an interim chip. It'll work in your board with your current ram and you can find them at reasonably decent prices these days.


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## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *funsoul*
> 
> Thanks Madmaxneo!
> Yeah..this setup is purely for benching. In a case, water-cooled, it'd do 5GHz 24/7 np (at around 1.30v).
> 
> Currently running a 3930k at 5 in my gaming rig and it chews through everything I throw at it. A 4930k like this one would be way overkill for gaming imho.
> 
> 
> 
> You got a great chip there. My 4930k is limited to 4.3ghz at 1.37 vcore. I lost the silicon lottery with this one. I have a temp replacement chip for when I get to sending this chip in for the the Intel Tuning plan. But since it is only an E-2670 I loose out on a lot. XMP doesn't work and this Xeon chip is barely OCable with a max OC of about 3.3ghz, and it does not seem to support turbo mode!
> 
> Do you know of any socket 2011 chips that would be a decent temporary replacement for this board while I send the 4930k in? Something really inexpensive would be awesome.
Click to expand...

2011 and cheap do not belong on the same sentence


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## funsoul

There are some cheap-ish alternatives....quick look at *bay, see these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Xeon-E5-2603-ES-QBLY-1-60GHz-10M-LGA2011-4C8T-Comp-X79-i7-3930K-4960X-/141899050291?hash=item2109d7ad33:g:FJcAAOSwG-1WuStW

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Xeon-E5-2620-v2-ES-LGA2011-6C-Compatible-with-X79-i7-3820-3930K-4930K-/161974931860?hash=item25b6755194:g:zpwAAOSwVL1V-uuQ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Core-i7-3930K-3-2-GHz-Six-Core-BX80619I73930K-Processor-/391405278160?hash=item5b219293d0:g:WucAAMXQVERS6uva

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Core-i7-3820-3-60GHz-Processor-SR0LD-/121923942067?hash=item1c633bb6b3:g:S98AAOSwZ8ZW5i0O

You'd have to confirm compatibility but some of the xeons are darn cheap these days.


----------



## Raghar

Boys I managed to get my RIV BE into continuous reboot, and was forced to power off PSU, and at the second attempt I basically lost USB devices (until reboot). Is it a normal bug, or it's just me and I finally have reproducible problem and I can do a RMA?
Aka dear Asus can you exchange it for X99M-WS and one Ranger VIII? I'd like to have backup board, in case of RMA.


----------



## funsoul

Happens to my setup when the board hates my ram settings. What post codes are you seeing just before it starts to loop? Any leds lit on the mobo showing what component is having trouble?

Power down, turn off the psu, remove the battery, let it sit a couple minutes, check all your cables and connections, insert the battery, turn on psu, start the board and give it a look.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funsoul*
> 
> There are some cheap-ish alternatives....quick look at *bay, see these:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Xeon-E5-2603-ES-QBLY-1-60GHz-10M-LGA2011-4C8T-Comp-X79-i7-3930K-4960X-/141899050291?hash=item2109d7ad33:g:FJcAAOSwG-1WuStW
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Xeon-E5-2620-v2-ES-LGA2011-6C-Compatible-with-X79-i7-3820-3930K-4930K-/161974931860?hash=item25b6755194:g:zpwAAOSwVL1V-uuQ
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Core-i7-3930K-3-2-GHz-Six-Core-BX80619I73930K-Processor-/391405278160?hash=item5b219293d0:g:WucAAMXQVERS6uva
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Core-i7-3820-3-60GHz-Processor-SR0LD-/121923942067?hash=item1c633bb6b3:g:S98AAOSwZ8ZW5i0O
> 
> You'd have to confirm compatibility but some of the xeons are darn cheap these days.


Awesome thanks!
The 3820 looks about right for now. The 3930k on ebay is a bid option and those prices usually go up to high for me. Currently they are selling for about $250 each.

I could deal with the 3820 for now as it has to be better than the E-2670 I have as a back up. Which brings to mind the other Xeons you posted for me, they have lower performance than the 2670 I have....lol.


----------



## Mega Man

You already have one in hand

Your want cheap? Use it, it won't cost you any more then you already spent
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funsoul*
> 
> Happens to my setup when the board hates my ram settings. What post codes are you seeing just before it starts to loop? Any leds lit on the mobo showing what component is having trouble?
> 
> Power down, turn off the psu, remove the battery, let it sit a couple minutes, check all your cables and connections, insert the battery, turn on psu, start the board and give it a look.


or, the mem ok button.


----------



## funsoul

Yvw! Didn't search around much but wanted to let you know there are cheaper alternatives


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You already have one in hand
> 
> Your want cheap? Use it, it won't cost you any more then you already spent
> or, the mem ok button.


The issue is the E-2650 chip I have does not support XMP amongst a few other things.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funsoul*
> 
> Yvw! Didn't search around much but wanted to let you know there are cheaper alternatives


You don't think a 3820 for $130 is not a great deal?

You know of anything better?


----------



## Mega Man

You don't need xmp, it is a temp chip, use it and be happy, assuming you want cheap


----------



## funsoul

What he said









That said, if you want something better to hold you over a bit, that seems like decent price for that cpu.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funsoul*
> 
> Happens to my setup when the board hates my ram settings. What post codes are you seeing just before it starts to loop? Any leds lit on the mobo showing what component is having trouble?
> 
> Power down, turn off the psu, remove the battery, let it sit a couple minutes, check all your cables and connections, insert the battery, turn on psu, start the board and give it a look.


Well an overclocker with experience knows when stuff is too dangerous to remove case cover, and watch numbers on display. A sharp noise of sudden disappearance of large current caused by triggering of a protection, I think the noise was from up, thus it was MB. Followed by black screen and powering stuff down, followed by repeated reboot, while this time without dangerous noises, RAM could be in wrong state, and there might be quite wrong voltage going through MB. Experienced overclockers are known for analyzing the situation in 0.2 seconds, then apply correct action in 5 seconds to prevent further damage.

I just selected in TurboV ratio 37, and pressed apply. And that was it. It should be completely harmless, no problems at all. (and I'm pretty sure I didn't have previous unsaved stuff by an accident)

(BTW I have 4820K which has base frequency 3.7 GHz, just saying.)


----------



## funsoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Boys I managed to get my RIV BE into continuous reboot, and was forced to power off PSU, and at the second attempt I basically lost USB devices (until reboot). Is it a normal bug, or it's just me and I finally have reproducible problem and I can do a RMA?
> Aka dear Asus can you exchange it for X99M-WS and one Ranger VIII? I'd like to have backup board, in case of RMA.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Well an overclocker with experience knows when stuff is too dangerous to remove case cover, and watch numbers on display. A sharp noise of sudden disappearance of large current caused by triggering of a protection, I think the noise was from up, thus it was MB. Followed by black screen and powering stuff down, followed by repeated reboot, while this time without dangerous noises, RAM could be in wrong state, and there might be quite wrong voltage going through MB. Experienced overclockers are known for analyzing the situation in 0.2 seconds, then apply correct action in 5 seconds to prevent further damage.
> 
> I just selected in TurboV ratio 37, and pressed apply. And that was it. It should be completely harmless, no problems at all. (and I'm pretty sure I didn't have previous unsaved stuff by an accident)
> 
> (BTW I have 4820K which has base frequency 3.7 GHz, just saying.)


Apologies if I steered you wrong on this Raghar. Didn't understand from your original post that you had a little System Crispies cereal (with the snap, crackle or pop). If I'd known that, would have given slightly different advice.

What kind of sharp noise was it? Could be a blown capacitor. Have you checked your videocard and mobo for any signs of visible damage? Check the vga card closely...any burn marks anywhere (like inside the power plug(s))?


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## Raghar

I tested CPU when that happened, GPU was idle. So I doubt it was something on GPU. And benchmarks works as before, with perhaps prime as exception. I didn't look on capacitors inside CPU socket. And didn't have time to remove PSU to check it, and remove MB to look for burn marks on other side.

The weird stuff was, it happened after that harmless change in TurboV core.


----------



## Laithan

Here's an update of me being the "Guinea pig". My Noctua "*Black Edition*" fans








I took the plunge and boiled/dye *all 9* of them

Every single one of them works perfectly!


My flash made a brown show up, ignore that they are all black






*Instructions (for modern Noctua fans only not legacy, they must be the 100% fully sealed version):*

*WARNING:* DO NOT DO THIS INDOORS. *USE THE SIDE BURNER ON YOUR OUTDOOR GRILL*. The stuff stinks horribly and it will get everywhere. It will NOT stick to stainless steel however it will stain most everything else. Use gloves. ANY materials that are used MUST be DISCARDED after use. Don't use anything that you plan to keep. What I read is that this stuff is non-toxic but I wouldn't breathe it either. Keep it outside.

*(1)* Go to Job Lot / Walmart and get a brand new cheapest large stove pot with a cover. The size of the fans you want to fit, that's how big. You want cheap because you're going to throw it away after. Cheap wooden spoon, some of those disposable metal containers can come in handy. You know the drill.. load up.

*(2)* Order Rit DYE. I personally ended up using Royal Blue. Yah I know why not black.. Well, this is what I used and it gave me black







. You are going to want *(2) Packages of this per fan* you want to dye. I ended up having to re-dye many of my fans *over again* because I was trying to use the same dye for multiple fans. *It just didn't work out that way so save yourself the headache and plan to use 2 boxes per fan for best results.*

*(3)* Using _DISTILLED WATER_ fill the pot about 1/2" above the height of the fan if it was laying down inside the pot. Bring this water to an easy boil. DON'T let it get too hot.. One of my fans took a small hit (cosmetically) because I think the temp was too high. All you really need is to bring the water to a slight boil and then using gloves (trust me no matter how good you think you can pour the dust WILL get all over your hands) pour the dye in QUICKLY. Mix with wooden spoon.

*(4)* Reduce heat to "simmer" to maintain a minimum temp. Get an alligator clip of some type. Any kind of metal clip.

*(5)* Place the Noctua fan inside the water and fully submerge it but HOLD ON to the power cable. This is where you use the clip. Clip the power cable to the side of the pot outside the path of the steam so that it is kept dry. Leave the fan in there for ONE HOUR. You don't need to flip it over. Set your kitchen timer, phone, etc. Don't worry if you leave it in there too long it won't matter it just wastes your time because you only need an hour to dye it









*(6)* Be prepared to remove the fan and have it be dripping dye like crazy. I personally got a wad of paper towels and plopped the fan right on top. I then took it to my stainless steel sink and rinsed them all off with water until they ran clean and then again with distilled water. Let them dry for an hour and then you can test it right away! All 9 of mine worked just fine... YMMV.. they are sealed, the internals never get wet. There is very little water pressure at that short of a depth.

**When finished if you want to dye *another fan* then you can get away with only adding *ONE more box of dye*. If you are starting over again then definitely need TWO.

When finished you seriously don't want to try and rinse the dye out of anything and re-use it.. The pan I used seemed to have retained a bit of it somehow and it just gets everywhere fast.. I got some on my counter and had to scrub it out


----------



## Madmaxneo

I might be doing the same for this 140mm cougar vortex PWM fan I purchased. The fan blades are orange of all things/ But it looks as though it can come apart.I was at the local computer shop looking for something and I came across the Cougar Vortex PWM. It is a good fan so far with 70 cfm and low noise.

When I installed it I realized the Noctua 140mm fan down there is a little larger than a normal 140mm fan so I can't really fit both fans down there completely in place. In fact the Noctua is only held in by one screw. It is at the bottom of my case so no biggie. After installing the cougar fan I have some good positive airflow now as I can feel air being pushed out the vent holes on the case.

*I have a question for all:* Does anyone know of a good fan controller and/or software suite that lets you set fan curves and what not based either on the fan position or the component it is keeping cool? For example I'd like to have my side door fan increase RPM's when my video card gets a certain temp. This also applies to my temp sensors.....I'd prefer just software but if I need a unit also I can do that.

I have tried using the AI suite in it's overall functionality, for one it does not monitor GPU temps.


----------



## Mega Man

you can with a aquaero but they are not cheap, however they are worth it


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> In that post I didn't all the info. I already have more than one drive running off a single power cable but I have a single power cable providing power to a single 200mm fan and it's LED's in the front of the case. Would it be safe to plug that fan into one of the drive power cables?
> II noticed the connectors used in the SATA power cable for the drives and the "peripherals" power cable have a different setup (meaning they both have a 6 pin connector to the PSU but on the "peripherals" one there are only 4 or 5 actual connections made).


Sounds like a LOT of effort to do three separate loops for your rig... That's a heck of an undertaking, and more than I've seen anybody else do for any rig. Hope it goes smoothly! 

As for the SATA power, check to see how many rails your PSU has, if it is a single rail, then you'll be fine plugging anything anywhere, if it is multi-rail, you'll want to find which rails correspond to which outputs, and try to keep things evenly drawing from the rails so as not to overload one, but if you are just plopping a couple of SSD's on a cable, you'll likely be fine.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I might be doing the same for this 140mm cougar vortex PWM fan I purchased. The fan blades are orange of all things/ But it looks as though it can come apart.I was at the local computer shop looking for something and I came across the Cougar Vortex PWM. It is a good fan so far with 70 cfm and low noise.
> 
> When I installed it I realized the Noctua 140mm fan down there is a little larger than a normal 140mm fan so I can't really fit both fans down there completely in place. In fact the Noctua is only held in by one screw. It is at the bottom of my case so no biggie. After installing the cougar fan I have some good positive airflow now as I can feel air being pushed out the vent holes on the case.
> 
> *I have a question for all:* Does anyone know of a good fan controller and/or software suite that lets you set fan curves and what not based either on the fan position or the component it is keeping cool? For example I'd like to have my side door fan increase RPM's when my video card gets a certain temp. This also applies to my temp sensors.....I'd prefer just software but if I need a unit also I can do that.
> 
> I have tried using the AI suite in it's overall functionality, for one it does not monitor GPU temps.


Then very best fan controller and monitoring suite is the aquaero. it is pricey but their is nothing you can not do with it monitor all temps on the computer, water, air, flow control leds everything. you can set up fan and pump curves based on any of the temps or use more than 1 temp and create a software temp to use. so that you can us a air water delta.. just too much to list here!!


----------



## reev3r

I have been building a custom system of my own, right now it monitors 10 temperature probes and allows you to touch the display to view a historical graph of the temperatures, I plan to add fan control and monitoring to it soon (PWM only) as I have a separate fan controller for my server and receiver (with a push button profile selection), but I have a good bit of work to do before it is complete...

Other than a custom job like I am doing, Aquaero is about your best bet as mentioned.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> I have been building a custom system of my own, right now it monitors 10 temperature probes and allows you to touch the display to view a historical graph of the temperatures, I plan to add fan control and monitoring to it soon (PWM only) as I have a separate fan controller for my server and receiver (with a push button profile selection), but I have a good bit of work to do before it is complete...
> 
> Other than a custom job like I am doing, Aquaero is about your best bet as mentioned.


Yeah I know that. But I also know that you have not finished the project yet, which is why I didn't ask you specifically. I was hoping for just a software solution. But I am looking into the aquero's.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Here's an update of me being the "Guinea pig". My Noctua "*Black Edition*" fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plunge and boiled/dye *all 9* of them
> 
> Every single one of them works perfectly!


http://www.techpowerup.com/img/14-05-13/53a.jpg
http://www.vortez.net/articles_file/27298_noctua%20industrial%20ppc%20review%20-%20intro.jpg

Well Noctua kinda released also editions without strange colors.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/img/14-05-13/53a.jpg
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_file/27298_noctua%20industrial%20ppc%20review%20-%20intro.jpg
> 
> Well Noctua kinda released also editions without strange colors.


Well of course I already bought 9 of these beige and brown fans so I was sorta stuck







($200+)

I've seen those but you can't really get what you want with those options either..







For example the industrial fans are all black and could work but they are also another $10+ per fan ($32 each vs $22 each) and have much higher noise and RPMs (2,000/3,000 vs 1200) and PWM control would be mandatory to slow them down.. or LNA adapter... Dye is much cheaper









Those Redux fans... well they aren't black so I'd have to dye them anyway. They scream "cheap" to me IMHO. If I'm buying *Noctua* I've already decided quality is important. If the fans had IDENTICAL specs to the "non-REDUX" versions then I would be comfortable saying "_Ah so what no rubber corners or extras in the box, they are the same thing_"....but they are _not_ the same specs. They are clearly different fans because the specs are different and that pretty much says to me that they are of lower quality than the beige and brown favorites.. Possibly lower performance also but I don't know that for sure


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/img/14-05-13/53a.jpg
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_file/27298_noctua%20industrial%20ppc%20review%20-%20intro.jpg
> 
> Well Noctua kinda released also editions without strange colors.


The fan I have, the Cougar Vortex PWM, only comes in one color and that is orange.


----------



## Laithan

Nothing like some of the builds I've seen here but this is my Frankenstein overkill black n blue build in progress. You have to admit, the beige and brown fans aren't missed one bit (they are all NF-A14 FLX dyed)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Nothing like some of the builds I've seen here but this is my Frankenstein overkill black n blue build in progress. You have to admit, the beige and brown fans aren't missed one bit (they are all NF-A14 FLX dyed)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and Clean!
I wish I could hide my wiring as well as you can.
Right now I have the swiftech fan control velcroed right in front of the MB. I may move that to the top of the case right in front of the rad.......


----------



## seross69

I have had some custom blocks made for my RIVBE and if anyone wants to buy a EK Clear/Nickel Monoblock send me a PM.. it is in great shape..


----------



## Mega Man

I would love for you to ship me that block !


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah I know that. But I also know that you have not finished the project yet, which is why I didn't ask you specifically. I was hoping for just a software solution. But I am looking into the aquero's.


Oh, I didn't realize you were looking for a software solution... You could buy some of the XSPC temperature probes that plug into the board and screw into your loop... There are certainly other brands though...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Oh, I didn't realize you were looking for a software solution... You could buy some of the XSPC temperature probes that plug into the board and screw into your loop... There are certainly other brands though...


How you forget so easily....
We talked about this and I originally purchased the wrong type. I have since purchased different ones and they work perfect.

But they do not solve my issue and I think the only was is to get an aquaero.

Speaking of which. There are different models and I remember hearing something about one of the older ones being better. Does anyone have any suggestions as to which one I should get? Right now my goal is to control all the fans in my case (along with my cpu cooler) to create a more efficient cooling environment. I'd like to monitor my GPU temps and have certain fans that feed into that area also increase RPMs based on the GPU temps.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> Oh, I didn't realize you were looking for a software solution... You could buy some of the XSPC temperature probes that plug into the board and screw into your loop... There are certainly other brands though...
> 
> 
> 
> How you forget so easily....
> We talked about this and I originally purchased the wrong type. I have since purchased different ones and they work perfect.
> 
> But they do not solve my issue and I think the only was is to get an aquaero.
> 
> Speaking of which. There are different models and I remember hearing something about one of the older ones being better. Does anyone have any suggestions as to which one I should get? Right now my goal is to control all the fans in my case (along with my cpu cooler) to create a more efficient cooling environment. I'd like to monitor my GPU temps and have certain fans that feed into that area also increase RPMs based on the GPU temps.
Click to expand...

An aquaero 5 Lt would be good enough I would think. No lcd display but uses the aquasuite software and has 4 fan headers @ 19.8 watts each, 1 of which is pwm capable. Flow sensors, 8 temp sensors which can be used basically however you want. I think they run around $70-80, much cheaper than the newer models. Looks like this with an optional waterblock attached:

The fan channels are below the waterblock, you can't see them in that pic.


----------



## Mega Man

5lt you WILL need either the block or the hs!!!very important.

6 has 4 PWM capable ( or voltage ) channels and will run much cooler does not need block


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have had some custom blocks made for my RIVBE and if anyone wants to buy a EK Clear/Nickel Monoblock send me a PM.. it is in great shape..


Pity that it isn't acetal/nickel or I'd get it in a heartbeat! That's the only thing missing... I already have the midget block as it is the same as from the RIVE.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Has anyone ever used one of these GRID+ fan controllers?


----------



## AlphaBravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Has anyone ever used one of these GRID+ fan controllers?


I am currently using two of them.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaBravo*
> 
> I am currently using two of them.


I assume that they work great for you?
A few questions:
1. How long have you had them?
2, Can you link more than one fan to a specific sensor or target (CPU, GPU, etc)
3. How many fans do you have connected to each one?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## AlphaBravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Has anyone ever used one of these GRID+ fan controllers?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I assume that they work great for you?
> A few questions:
> 1. How long have you had them?
> 2, Can you link more than one fan to a specific sensor or target (CPU, GPU, etc)
> 3. How many fans do you have connected to each one?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


They are working perfectly so far. I have two more on order for my other builds.

1. I have had them installed for a couple of weeks.

2. You can link each fan independently to either the CPU or the GPU temperature.

3. I have six fans connected to one of my controllers, and I have four fans connected to my other controller.


----------



## Rayce185

So is Quad Channel really that much faster/optimal than Dual Channel on X79? I'm thinking of getting another 2x8GB for loading games into the RAM drive...


----------



## Mega Man

For some things it is, every day things not do much that said I wouldn't run less then quad just because it is there and silly imo not to use it


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> So is Quad Channel really that much faster/optimal than Dual Channel on X79? I'm thinking of getting another 2x8GB for loading games into the RAM drive...


Hmmm, here is an article on the subject . It has lots to do with memory bandwidth.
But like @Mega Man said it is silly not to use it anyway....


----------



## Rayce185

Thanks for the heads up! +rep

So that'll be my next purchase then. Pity prices haven't really gone down much for the Platinums...


----------



## funsoul

4930k, rivbe and quad channel result from this morning. I love this board!

http://hwbot.org/submission/3166822


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funsoul*
> 
> 4930k, rivbe and quad channel result from this morning. I love this board!
> 
> http://hwbot.org/submission/3166822
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


LN2 though. Great OC regardless.

I wonder what the highest OC on a 4930k is on water?


----------



## fishingfanatic

Wow ! Amazing oc congrats !!!









FF


----------



## Laithan

Well... I've got the system up and running! I witnessed my first UEFI BIOS last night on this board. I am coming from an ASUS Striker II extreme which was I very comfortable with (socket 775) and as I look through the settings in this RIVBE my jaw dropped and I became instant stupid... I feel like a n00b again.. holy thousands of settings..


















Can anyone point me in the direction of a decent O/C tutorial for this board? I need to just get a jumpstart and go from there.









This board is insane!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Well... I've got the system up and running! I witnessed my first UEFI BIOS last night on this board. I am coming from an ASUS Striker II extreme which was I very comfortable with (socket 775) and as I look through the settings in this RIVBE my jaw dropped and I became instant stupid... I feel like a n00b again.. holy thousands of settings..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone point me in the direction of a decent O/C tutorial for this board? I need to just get a jumpstart and go from there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This board is insane!


*http://rog.asus.com/306702014/overclocking/video-overclocking-guide-rampage-iv-black-edition-and-i7-4960x*

*http://rog.asus.com/305492014/rampage-motherboards/memory-overclocking-guide-for-rampage-iv-black-edition-beginner-to-advanced/*

*http://overclocking.guide/x79-rampage-iv-extreme-black-edition/*

Can also use the Rampage IV Extreme guides as well, pretty much same bios settings. I had both boards and both gave pretty much identical overclocks:

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1271026/ocn-net-asus-rampage-iv-extreme-overclocking-guide*

This one helped a lot for me:

*https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?5835-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Extreme-UEFI-Guide-for-Overclocking*


----------



## Laithan

Awesome thank you! +REP

Time to get busy!


----------



## funsoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> LN2 though. Great OC regardless.
> 
> I wonder what the highest OC on a 4930k is on water?


Around 4.7-5GHz seems to be about where people get these under water. http://url.hwbot.org/1Pv6pt3
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> Wow ! Amazing oc congrats !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FF


Thanks fishingfanatic!


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funsoul*
> 
> Around 4.7-5GHz seems to be about where people get these under water. http://url.hwbot.org/1Pv6pt3
> Thanks fishingfanatic!


5GHz on water? But then the board must be under blocks too, right? Because I've reached my max at 5GHz under Phase Change too...

http://hwbot.org/submission/3086311_rayce185_cpu_frequency_core_i7_4930k_4998.83_mhz

You've got a great setup there, congrats on the results


----------



## Kimir

No, the board doesn't have to be on water.
My 4930K that can do 6Ghz+ on LN2 do 4.7Ghz @ 1.33v, 4.8Ghz @ 1.41v stable under Prime95. I can do 4.8Ghz with as little as 1.3v and pass load of 2D and 3D benches.


----------



## funsoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> 5GHz on water? But then the board must be under blocks too, right? Because I've reached my max at 5GHz under Phase Change too...
> 
> http://hwbot.org/submission/3086311_rayce185_cpu_frequency_core_i7_4930k_4998.83_mhz
> 
> You've got a great setup there, congrats on the results


Depends A LOT on the individual cpu. Some are beasts (with 5-5.1ish under water), some average others yeah not so much.

Thanks for the congrats. It's by far my best sub ever.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> 5GHz on water? But then the board must be under blocks too, right? Because I've reached my max at 5GHz under Phase Change too...
> 
> http://hwbot.org/submission/3086311_rayce185_cpu_frequency_core_i7_4930k_4998.83_mhz
> 
> You've got a great setup there, congrats on the results


Phase change?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> No, the board doesn't have to be on water.
> My 4930K that can do 6Ghz+ on LN2 do 4.7Ghz @ 1.33v, 4.8Ghz @ 1.41v stable under Prime95. I can do 4.8Ghz with as little as 1.3v and pass load of 2D and 3D benches.


Is that 4.8ghz on air?

I know that when I was on air with a evo 212 and I think the highest I could reach was 4.0. But I am on water and stable at 4.3ghz... which is my absolute max. I even touch 4.4ghz and it crashes withing a few minutes of any kind of stress test. I got a bum chip and if I ever get around to it I will be sending it in for the Intel tuning plan (already approved), but I keep putting it off.


----------



## Kimir

On water, he asked on water. Anyway, I think I could do it on air too, I mean the NH-D14 SE2011 I used prior switching to water (and I still have it) still do really well to manage my second crappy 4930K that do 4.5Ghz at 1.4v (1.48v required for 4.6Ghz, dat wall man). That is on open bench table, helps alot for the air cooler!


----------



## funsoul

Just to offer a comparison of different chips...the 4930k in my sub needs 1.30v (or less, didn't try lower) for 4.5 (under water).


----------



## Laithan

http://valid.x86.fr/512f1q

unlocked, confirmed


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/512f1q
> 
> unlocked, confirmed


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/512f1q
> 
> unlocked, confirmed


That is awesome!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up! +rep
> 
> So that'll be my next purchase then. Pity prices haven't really gone down much for the Platinums...


A must have if your benchmarking , I see your on Hbot so id be doing this at least 4 x 4gb @ 2666mhz or higher and your physics scores will improve ...........


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That is awesome!


----------



## Laithan

So what is up with the "*Water cooled gamer's OC profile*" in the *RIVBE BIOS that sets my CPU to 1.55v and 4.9Ghz*?? I've been looking around/asking and it seems that 1.4v is the max voltage that should be used no matter what... (air or water).

I figured I'd ask you guys since this is a RIVBE BIOS setting and I'm a gamer and I'm under H2O... it naturally sounds like I'd want to consider using that built in profile. I'm just not sure I should be pushing that much voltage..









i've got the _board_ and _vrms_ on blocks too. My temps are way low I've got 40C+ distance to TjMax under prime95 using 1.45v @ 4.8Ghz...

It *seems* like I've got a ton more headroom if I were to use higher voltage but I'm not experienced with 22nm. My last chip (45nm X5470) ran under H2O @ just over 1.5v for over a year and still works just fine...zero degradation... I was told I would reduce the lifespan of my CPU if I ran that voltage but I've proved that wrong... I realize that 22nm could be an entirely different ball game.

Anyone have experience with that "Water cooled gamer's" profile built into RIVBE and/or long term high voltage with Ivy-E?

Thanks in advance gentlemen!


----------



## Mega Man

Yep, don't use it


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> So what is up with the "*Water cooled gamer's OC profile*" in the *RIVBE BIOS that sets my CPU to 1.55v and 4.9Ghz*?? I've been looking around/asking and it seems that 1.4v is the max voltage that should be used no matter what... (air or water).
> 
> I figured I'd ask you guys since this is a RIVBE BIOS setting and I'm a gamer and I'm under H2O... it naturally sounds like I'd want to consider using that built in profile. I'm just not sure I should be pushing that much voltage..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i've got the _board_ and _vrms_ on blocks too. My temps are way low I've got 40C+ distance to TjMax under prime95 using 1.45v @ 4.8Ghz...
> 
> It *seems* like I've got a ton more headroom if I were to use higher voltage but I'm not experienced with 22nm. My last chip (45nm X5470) ran under H2O @ just over 1.5v for over a year and still works just fine...zero degradation... I was told I would reduce the lifespan of my CPU if I ran that voltage but I've proved that wrong... I realize that 22nm could be an entirely different ball game.
> 
> Anyone have experience with that "Water cooled gamer's" profile built into RIVBE and/or long term high voltage with Ivy-E?
> 
> Thanks in advance gentlemen!


NEVER USE ANY OC PROFILES.

(Also it runs for only year, that's not necessary proof of anything, talk after 3 years or 7.)


----------



## Laithan

Thanks guys...

WTH was ASUS thinking when they put those profiles in the BIOS...


----------



## Mega Man

they had to make profiles that would work with most chips,


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they had to make profiles that would work with most chips,


The funny thing is I have yet to meet anyone where those profiles work for any CPU......


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The funny thing is I have yet to meet anyone where those profiles work for any CPU......


Actually i think it is not the fact that they don't work but of the settings being so bad no one will use them!!


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> NEVER USE ANY OC PROFILES.
> 
> (Also it runs for only year, that's not necessary proof of anything, talk after 3 years or 7.)


What about the XMP profile? I've been using it with my OC with no problem so far.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> What about the XMP profile? I've been using it with my OC with no problem so far.


XMP profiles are different as the memory tells the board where to set the timings


----------



## Mega Man

Fair warning though on intels it can increase the imc voltage ( I can't remember the name atm) past 1.2v!I always recommend doing them by hand


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Fair warning though on intels it can increase the imc voltage ( I can't remember the name atm) past 1.2v!I always recommend doing them by hand


vcssa

fwiw, my Corsair Platinum set didn't set vcssa at all - I had to look up the rated timing/voltage on corsair's website and set it manually. And it's a VERY important setting... set the wrong vcssa by just .01v and you won't be stable no matter what vcore you give it.


----------



## Rayce185

I've set all voltages manually using the RIVE OC guide on this forum. I guess it's advisable for everyone OCing to do so as well.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> I've set all voltages manually using the RIVE OC guide on this forum. I guess it's advisable for everyone OCing to do so as well.


Found your thread







I'm very tempted to try this








http://www.overclock.net/t/1586295/oc-tweak-help-for-rampage-iv-black-edition

This was a couple months ago, how are things? Still running 5Ghz @ 1.5v?


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Found your thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very tempted to try this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1586295/oc-tweak-help-for-rampage-iv-black-edition
> 
> This was a couple months ago, how are things? Still running 5Ghz @ 1.5v?


Still running well and stable









Here's the guide I was referring to: http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/0_100

Not directly for RIVE, but IB-E on ASUS nevertheless.

Note that I am on phase change cooling for the CPU, so I tweaked some voltages between WC and LN2 settings.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Still running well and stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the guide I was referring to: http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/0_100
> 
> Not directly for RIVE, but IB-E on ASUS nevertheless.
> 
> Note that I am on phase change cooling for the CPU, so I tweaked some voltages between WC and LN2 settings.


You've given me the inspiration I was looking for







. The whole reason I got an unlocked Xeon was to O/C the heck out of it. We've pretty much got the same chip. I've got an E5-1650v2. You have 4930k.

5Ghz is pretty impressive. Are you able to maintain that on water also? I'd love to get a look at your BIOS.







. I've got the VRMs and chipset under water also. I'm thinking that I should be able to get at least 4.9 stable with some extra juice. I've been learning about this board fast but it's like saying I just learned how to play *chess* last week.. haha.

This is far as I've been able to go so far. PS. You mentioned in your thread about CPU-z showing half voltage, same thing here also. AIDA 64's version show the correct voltage.


----------



## PolRoger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> This is far as I've been able to go so far. PS. You mentioned in your thread about CPU-z showing half voltage, same thing here also. AIDA 64's version show the correct voltage.


There is an older version of CPU-Z that will read correct vcore for IB-E chips... v1.71.1:

http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/cpu-z_1.71.1-en.zip


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PolRoger*
> 
> There is an older version of CPU-Z that will read correct vcore for IB-E chips... v1.71.1:
> 
> http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/cpu-z_1.71.1-en.zip


Thx, downloaded and replaced. Works as you said. +REP


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> You've given me the inspiration I was looking for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The whole reason I got an unlocked Xeon was to O/C the heck out of it. We've pretty much got the same chip. I've got an E5-1650v2. You have 4930k.
> 
> 5Ghz is pretty impressive. Are you able to maintain that on water also? I'd love to get a look at your BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've got the VRMs and chipset under water also. I'm thinking that I should be able to get at least 4.9 stable with some extra juice. I've been learning about this board fast but it's like saying I just learned how to play *chess* last week.. haha.


There are a crazy lot of settings in the bios, but really there's only a few you really need to worry about: vcore (obviously), vtt, vcssa, cpu LLC, & cpu current capability. These are the "must have" settings to find your stable oc; pretty much everything else is "fine tuning". And a good number of the settings in the various advanced sub-menus I've literally *never* come across anyone who knows what they do (for real!), so just leave them alone until you're confident in your oc and you just want to play around with it. One thing to be aware of on this board (possible with IB-e across boards?) is that no amount of vcore will stabilize you if your vtt & vcssa & llc/current capability aren't right. In my experience that's both the strength and the weakness of the board - it's tricky to juggle all of these just right to find the sweet spot, but once you find it, it's rock solid. I spent a good 6 months crashing periodically until I finally figured out that it wasn't vcore at all, but rather vcssa that was killing me... once I adjusted it, my system hasn't crashed once in over 2 years, and I have a pretty agressive oc.

Honestly, the best place to start is here: rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?5835-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Extreme-UEFI-Guide-for-Overclocking


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> There are a crazy lot of settings in the bios, but really there's only a few you really need to worry about: vcore (obviously), vtt, vcssa, cpu LLC, & cpu current capability. These are the "must have" settings to find your stable oc; pretty much everything else is "fine tuning". And a good number of the settings in the various advanced sub-menus I've literally *never* come across anyone who knows what they do (for real!), so just leave them alone until you're confident in your oc and you just want to play around with it. One thing to be aware of on this board (possible with IB-e across boards?) is that no amount of vcore will stabilize you if your vtt & vcssa & llc/current capability aren't right. In my experience that's both the strength and the weakness of the board - it's tricky to juggle all of these just right to find the sweet spot, but once you find it, it's rock solid. I spent a good 6 months crashing periodically until I finally figured out that it wasn't vcore at all, but rather vcssa that was killing me... once I adjusted it, my system hasn't crashed once in over 2 years, and I have a pretty agressive oc.
> 
> Honestly, the best place to start is here: rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?5835-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Extreme-UEFI-Guide-for-Overclocking


Thanks very much! I agree, I've already got a taste of what you described. I find that tweaking the memory (I've got 64GB) will probably be the hardest part. Any time I ran into trouble I put the memory back to AUTO and it fixed it.

I will focus on those particular settings and check the link, thanks a bunch! +REP


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Thanks very much! I agree, I've already got a taste of what you described. I find that tweaking the memory (I've got 64GB) will probably be the hardest part. Any time I ran into trouble I put the memory back to AUTO and it fixed it.
> 
> I will focus on those particular settings and check the link, thanks a bunch! +REP


64gb is gonna be tricky with Ivy Bridge-e... in general, I think most IB-e users have found that the IMC doesn't play nice with that much memory, and forces them to dial back their cpu oc. The consensus (last time I checked, that is... I've honestly been a bit out of the loop for awhile now) is that with these chips you get better cpu multiplier oc with 8 or 16gb of ram; once you jump up to 32 or 64gb, you're not really gonna get stable much higher than 4.4ghz. But as always, ymmv -- good luck!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> 64gb is gonna be tricky with Ivy Bridge-e... in general, I think most IB-e users have found that the IMC doesn't play nice with that much memory, and forces them to dial back their cpu oc. The consensus (last time I checked, that is... I've honestly been a bit out of the loop for awhile now) is that with these chips you get better cpu multiplier oc with 8 or 16gb of ram; once you jump up to 32 or 64gb, you're not really gonna get stable much higher than 4.4ghz. But as always, ymmv -- good luck!


Well i am lucky then have a 4960x at 4.6 with less than 1.3 v with 64gb of 2400mhz that i stressed tested the memory and cpu constantly for over a week not 1 error or blue screen. Just changed the multiplyer and xmp on memory!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Well i am lucky then have a 4960x at 4.6 with less than 1.3 v with 64gb of 2400mhz that i stressed tested the memory and cpu constantly for over a week not 1 error or blue screen. Just changed the multiplyer and xmp on memory!


Yes, you're absolutely lucky. Maybe not quite a "golden" chip, but definitely a damn good one with a "golden" IMC.

Although, like I said, I'm out of the loop lately, things may have changed since I last checked in. I'm just bored at work today and making conversation. lol


----------



## Rayce185

Interesting.

First, thanks for the CPU-Z hint. Rep for that.

I've been thinking of going to 32GB as I'm running 2x8GB for one reason and secondly want to use the RAM as a drive for faster loading times of games. I hope the IMC will manage the OC. The board is still on stock cooling.

Laithan, I'm glad you have hope for some decent OCs based on my attempts. I will make some screens of my BIOS when I'm home if you still want them.
I'm guessing WC won't be as forgiving as PC cooling, but I'm just guessing here. If I can believe RealTemps load temperatures then the CPU reaches maybe 10 degrees Celsius under full load. I've come to realize though that the OC won't run 24/7 stable when folding, 4.8GHz with lower vCore works fine though. My guess is the board is the bottleneck here and not the CPU, but I'm not as experienced with this architecture as I'd like to be.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> First, thanks for the CPU-Z hint. Rep for that.
> 
> I've been thinking of going to 32GB as I'm running 2x8GB for one reason and secondly want to use the RAM as a drive for faster loading times of games. I hope the IMC will manage the OC. The board is still on stock cooling.
> 
> Laithan, I'm glad you have hope for some decent OCs based on my attempts. I will make some screens of my BIOS when I'm home if you still want them.
> I'm guessing WC won't be as forgiving as PC cooling, but I'm just guessing here. If I can believe RealTemps load temperatures then the CPU reaches maybe 10 degrees Celsius under full load. I've come to realize though that the OC won't run 24/7 stable when folding, 4.8GHz with lower vCore works fine though. My guess is the board is the bottleneck here and not the CPU, but I'm not as experienced with this architecture as I'd like to be.


Yes I would love some screens of your BIOS if it's not too much trouble. I really appreciate all the awesome support from you guys









EDIT: Are any of these still the same? I assume it's been a while and they could be slightly stale compared to your latest tweaks.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1586295/oc-tweak-help-for-rampage-iv-black-edition


----------



## Rayce185

It's possible that they are outdated from my current setup, but not too much. I may have toned down the voltages a bit for stability. You'll have the screens this evening


----------



## Rayce185

Here's the current setup:

    

The DRAM voltages are set to the specced 1.65V


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Here's the current setup:
> 
> 
> 
> The DRAM voltages are set to the specced 1.65V












Wahoo thanks a million! Will post results. I've got homework.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Here's the current setup:
> 
> 
> 
> The DRAM voltages are set to the specced 1.65V


That's interesting.... your ram is rated for 1.2v vccsa, but you're stable at 1.1v? You really do have a "golden" IMC. If you run into any stability issues, though, the first thing I'd try is bumping that up to 1.2


----------



## Rayce185

I haven't really played with those settings. Should 1.2V be better?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> I haven't really played with those settings. Should 1.2V be better?


Well, 1.1 is "better" if it's stable, but honestly it shouldn't be stable. If you look at the XMP profile, the "1.20v" at the end refers to the IMC voltage, which on this board is called vccsa. You have it set manually to 1.1v - which is awesome, *IF* it's stable. If it crashes, though, the very first thing I'd do is bump that vccsa up to 1.2 and see if that fixes it. In my personal experience, my system is VERY sensitive to vccsa, which is why it surprised me that you're good with less than the rated voltage. Then again, if you're pushing 5ghz at 1.5v your chip is generally better than mine, so maybe it's just a really strong one.


----------



## Rayce185

Thanks! I've never really had any reference to be honest.

As said the system isn't very stable above 5.15GHz and folding at 5.0 is an issue too, even with higher vCore.

Maybe that'll change when getting the WC block setup for the board, but I could see what happens with 1.2V VCSSA too.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Thanks! I've never really had any reference to be honest.
> 
> As said the system isn't very stable above 5.15GHz and folding at 5.0 is an issue too, even with higher vCore.
> 
> Maybe that'll change when getting the WC block setup for the board, but I could see what happens with 1.2V VCSSA too.


If 5.0 is an issue even with higher vcore that's a very good indicator that vccsa is the problem. While IB-e isn't known for being highly overclockable *under* 1.4v, if you're willing & able to give it more you should be able to get it well beyond 5ghz. As I said in a previous post, I spent the first 6 months I had my 4930k crashing an average of like once a week, and I couldn't figure out for the life of me why -- nothing I did seemed to stop the crashes, until I bumped up vccsa from 1.2 to 1.215v. I've literally not crashed even once since.


----------



## PolRoger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> I've been thinking of going to 32GB as I'm running 2x8GB for one reason and secondly want to use the RAM as a drive for faster loading times of games. I hope the IMC will manage the OC. The board is still on stock cooling.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Well, 1.1 is "better" if it's stable, but honestly it shouldn't be stable. If you look at the XMP profile, the "1.20v" at the end refers to the IMC voltage, which on this board is called vccsa. You have it set manually to 1.1v - which is awesome, *IF* it's stable. If it crashes, though, the very first thing I'd do is bump that vccsa up to 1.2 and see if that fixes it. In my personal experience, my system is VERY sensitive to vccsa, which is why it surprised me that you're good with less than the rated voltage. Then again, if you're pushing 5ghz at 1.5v your chip is generally better than mine, so maybe it's just a really strong one.


I believe he is running in dual channel not quad channel... Which may be a factor with regards the lower VCCSA voltage and stability??

Also note that while he runs at ~5.0GHz/1.5v... That the cooling for his chip is under phase change. And I agree with you... My combo also seems sensitive to VCCIO/VCCSA especially with higher memory speeds 2133/2400(+). I would venture that he would most likely need bumps to both those voltages to run 4x8GB (quad) at 2400 and might possibly even have to drop memory speed down to 1866/2133??


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PolRoger*
> 
> I believe he is running in dual channel not quad channel... Which may be a factor with regards the lower VCCSA voltage and stability??
> 
> Also note that while he runs at ~5.0GHz/1.5v... That the cooling for his chip is under phase change. And I agree with you... My combo also seems sensitive to VCCIO/VCCSA especially with higher memory speeds 2133/2400(+). I would venture that he would most likely need bumps to both those voltages to run 4x8GB (quad) at 2400 and might possibly even have to drop memory speed down to 1866/2133??


Agreed. Although for good measure, I dropped back to a dual channel config some time ago and mine still wants the additional vccsa, so the baseline amount it requires won't necessarily drop lower just because you lose channels.

vccsa shortage won't materialize in an inability to boot or anything so obvious, more like hard locks in Prime95 or BSOD when folding. Basically, when the memory gets really heavily taxed, that's when it will fail. Under normal daily use, I expect 1.1v probably would be sufficient for regular moderate use.


----------



## seross69

If anyone wants a monoblock to cool this board and CPU then take a look. Get a good deal..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1596166/a-rivbe-monoblock-like-new-or-close-to-it-ek-fb-r4be-nickle-plexi


----------



## Raghar

Folks. High VCCSA isn't always better. My LoVo kits were able to work with 0.970 on my old CPU. And from what I gathered the relatively high VCCSA required for some kits is more like consequence of T-topology on RIV BE. RIVE required less volts for the same CPU and RAM. (At least according to a person who upgraded from RIVE to RIV BE, and discovered his previous settings are not stable at all.)
Might be manufacturing error, I suspect my current problems are result of a damaged pin in socket. I thought that rising it with pinzete solved it, but it looks that perhaps not.

I think that required VCCSA is actually function of kit voltage. 1.5V kits like around 1V, 1.65 around 1.1, and 1.35V kits might like voltage between 0.850V and 970V. Depends on theirs speed and CPU voltage. 2400MHz 1.65 watercooled needs more than 1600MHz 1.35V
There might be also region which the CPU simply will not tolerate, basically nothing in that range would be ever stable.

Coincidentally overdoing it with VCCSA is a quick way to destroy your CPU.

BTW SPD specified 1.2V VCCSA for my LoVo, but it was quite wrong because it assumed Sandy-E CPU, that setting would be completely useless for Ivy-E.


----------



## Laithan

Well... I'm still tweaking but I'm currently not able to go any higher than 4.8Ghz prime stable.

I noticed my board has 0602 BIOS. Should I update to 0701? I wonder if I might get better O/C results with the newer BIOS.

What do you guys run?


----------



## Rayce185

It never hurts to update the BIOS.

You're on WC, right? From what I heard OCing anything over 4.6 is pretty good for these CPUs, so I'd call us lucky


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> It never hurts to update the BIOS.
> 
> You're on WC, right? From what I heard OCing anything over 4.6 is pretty good for these CPUs, so I'd call us lucky


The second part is true, the first part is not necessarily.

Asus never releases update notes specifying what they changed in the bios, but *subjective* user reports seems to indicate more people were stable on certain versions of the bios, and those versions were NOT the final 2 (v7 or v8). I can't remember the version number that most people agreed was overall the best (I want to say 4607?), but there definitely was one that consensus suggested was the "most stable" (YMMV, of course). Search the rampage IV subforum of the rog forum and you'll find it.


----------



## Mega Man

And sometimes raja will tell us


----------



## morper

Im trying to get my hands on EK's monoblock in nickel plexi or acetal clean csq. I have looked everywhere but havent found anything. Does anyone know a place that still has this monoblock in stock? I wouldnt mind buying a used one either but havent been able track one down. If anyone knows where to find one please let me know


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> How you forget so easily....
> We talked about this and I originally purchased the wrong type. I have since purchased different ones and they work perfect.
> 
> But they do not solve my issue and I think the only was is to get an aquaero.
> 
> Speaking of which. There are different models and I remember hearing something about one of the older ones being better. Does anyone have any suggestions as to which one I should get? Right now my goal is to control all the fans in my case (along with my cpu cooler) to create a more efficient cooling environment. I'd like to monitor my GPU temps and have certain fans that feed into that area also increase RPMs based on the GPU temps.


lol It seems you're the one not paying attention... I posted this several days before you told me you bought the XSPC probes.  *Several days* lol Correction: there is a FULL WEEK disparity. lol I really feel you need to re-read our messages man, there are a lot of things you are missing out on. I've gone through to see if I really was making the errors you were correcting me on, and most of the time that wasn't the case... I doubt it is worth the days/hours to you, but when someone is telling you *basically* that you're crazy, it is definitely worth several days of research, especially if there is only one person saying it. lol ;-)

That being said, in many ways I am indeed crazy, but not this time it seems... hehe

On another note, do you still want the photographs of my rig during the rebuild? Unfortunately it was just me doing the build/taking photographs, so I could not get as many, as detailed as I had hoped... Just let me know and I'll post them up.


----------



## reev3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morper*
> 
> Im trying to get my hands on EK's monoblock in nickel Plexi or acetal clean CSQ. I have looked everywhere but haven't found anything. Does anyone know a place that still has this monoblock in stock? I wouldn't mind buying a used one either but haven't been able track one down. If anyone knows where to find one please let me know


I would gladly sell you mine, but sadly it is currently in use. Once I move to X99 however, she's all yours... I found mine in the OCN Marketplace under the 'Cooling' category... I see them pop up every few months or so, but if you are particular about the materials, then getting your hopes up for a used one is probably not the most productive market to explore... I 'settled' for the mono nickel Plexi (non-CSQ), only to find I am much happier now because once I get around to actually taking the risk and adding some dye or colored coolant, it is going to rock the loop! Especially with the twin Black Nickel reservoirs I have... Oh so beautiful, they are! blewmp!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morper*
> 
> Im trying to get my hands on EK's monoblock in nickel plexi or acetal clean csq. I have looked everywhere but havent found anything. Does anyone know a place that still has this monoblock in stock? I wouldnt mind buying a used one either but havent been able track one down. If anyone knows where to find one please let me know


I think somebody in this thread mentioned they had one to get rid of not too long ago, scroll back a few pages.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I think somebody in this thread mentioned they had one to get rid of not too long ago, scroll back a few pages.


Yes, it was last week and it was the plexi version, but only the monoblock without the VRM cooler.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Yes, it was last week and it was the plexi version, but only the monoblock without the VRM cooler.


If anyone wants a monblock for a good price check here!!

It was sold


----------



## fishingfanatic

I found the info on EKWB about the nickel monoblock, it says end of line but no harm in firing off an email to c if they still have any in stock.

That's if you can't find one used that would be cheaper of course.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-r4be-monoblock-nickel

Hope that helps !









FF


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reev3r*
> 
> lol It seems you're the one not paying attention... I posted this several days before you told me you bought the XSPC probes.  *Several days* lol Correction: there is a FULL WEEK disparity. lol I really feel you need to re-read our messages man, there are a lot of things you are missing out on. I've gone through to see if I really was making the errors you were correcting me on, and most of the time that wasn't the case... I doubt it is worth the days/hours to you, but when someone is telling you *basically* that you're crazy, it is definitely worth several days of research, especially if there is only one person saying it. lol ;-)
> 
> That being said, in many ways I am indeed crazy, but not this time it seems... hehe
> 
> On another note, do you still want the photographs of my rig during the rebuild? Unfortunately it was just me doing the build/taking photographs, so I could not get as many, as detailed as I had hoped... Just let me know and I'll post them up.


Nope, I seriously think you are loosing it now, lol.
I first messaged you about the new temp probes on Feb 28th (it only took me 5 mins to find that message), That message you mention above was only 1 week and 5 days ago today. That is quite a bit of a difference.
And they weren't the XPSC ones, I got the Bitspower ones. I said that in the original message, on Feb 28th..........


----------



## morper

Appricate the help so far guys, thanks

I checked with EK aswell and they are OOS on all models


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishingfanatic*
> 
> I found the info on EKWB about the nickel monoblock, it says end of line but no harm in firing off an email to c if they still have any in stock.
> 
> That's if you can't find one used that would be cheaper of course.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-r4be-monoblock-nickel
> 
> Hope that helps !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FF


Thanks!

I'll mail them anyway. I'd really like a nickel/acetal version.

I have the RIVE version here but it doesn't fit, only the VRM block.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morper*
> 
> Appricate the help so far guys, thanks
> 
> I checked with EK aswell and they are OOS on all models


You might try checking the rog forum, too. They don't have a marketplace, but if you just ask somebody there is bound to have one lying around.


----------



## morper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> You might try checking the rog forum, too. They don't have a marketplace, but if you just ask somebody there is bound to have one lying around.


Thanks, I'll do that aswell!


----------



## seross69

I know where you can get nickle block for board but it not monoblock


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> It never hurts to update the BIOS.
> 
> You're on WC, right? From what I heard OCing anything over 4.6 is pretty good for these CPUs, so I'd call us lucky


Yeah WC CPU, VRM and BLOCK, I guess I'm not disappointed with 4.8Ghz but I thought for sure I would be able to get a little bit more. I think it boils down to these boards being pretty easy to overclock and my CPU not wanting to go above 4.8Ghz... ..but... I am at the same point that you were when you wrote that post... "*I seem to be stuck at 4.8Ghz and I tried more voltage and that didn't help*"....is basically what you said and basically exactly where I am. Your settings *unfortunately* didn't help me get to 5.0 or even 4.9 so I don't know maybe I just need to tweak some more... or maybe I need to get rid of 64GB and try just 16GB... or maybe I'm at my CPU's max O/C...



Spoiler: Editorial note



I feel like 64GB was a waste, the ramdisk isn't as cool as I though it would be. Suckered...



According to the BSOD list for overclockers, getting 0x124 errors most often which according to the link says: *0x124 = increase/decrease QPI/VTT first, if not increase/decrease vcore...have to test to see which one it is*

I didn't try lowering voltage but doubt that would improve stability as I seem to need all of the 1.488v I am giving it just for 4.8Ghz. Higher voltage, no improvement (up to 1.55v I tried).

Any suggestions for 0x124's?


----------



## morper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I know where you can get nickle block for board but it not monoblock


Yes the other block is still available in some places but im only interested in the monoblock


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morper*
> 
> Yes the other block is still available in some places but im only interested in the monoblock


Yes they are hard to find the one i sold i got 85% of cost out of it


----------



## Laithan

Just sharing my pile... pale in comparison to most... but I like it







.

*there are many like them, but this one is mine*










Spoiler: Pikcherz










I'm working on figuring out a way to install another rad

_(Just kidding!







)_


----------



## Mega Man

Yes you do need more rads....


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Just sharing my pile... pale in comparison to most... but I like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> *there are many like them, but this one is mine*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pikcherz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm working on figuring out a way to install another rad
> 
> _(Just kidding!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )_


Yes MORE Rads!

But does all that extra radiator space help any?

I'd hate to be you when it comes time to changing one of your video cards out......lol


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yes MORE Rads!
> 
> But does all that extra radiator space help any?
> 
> I'd hate to be you when it comes time to changing one of your video cards out......lol


Sequence was everything with this build from the start and I think it wins the award for the most difficult loop to bleed (I'd almost gladly change out a video card but I'd have to bleed again LMAO!). Every RAD is in a different orientation. It's overkill but I definitely see an improvement over my previous loop. Although it was a different CPU and block (same voltage though), I used to hit 85C (highly overclocked X5470) on the previous loop and now with this one I rarely go over 60C even under CPU stress testing. My GPUs used to be around 55C under load and now they hover in the 30's.. lol I'm getting 3.1lph currently. I'm able to turn the fans way down now.



Spoiler: Flow design













I know that people say it doesn't matter but I couldn't really see how coming out of a block (water just heated) and then going into a rad (to cool it immediately after) would *NOT* be to *SOME* advantage, even if it is just 1C. This being compared to the flow of going through multiple blocks like CPU and GPU and THEN going into a rad. The flow pattern I used starting with the pump/res/rad on the left: _140mmRAD --> (2) GPU blocks --> 140mmRAD --> 420mmRAD --> MB Chipset --> CPU block --> 240mmRAD --> VRM block back to the original 140mmRAD._ The only blocks that are together are the Chipset and CPU all other blocks go into a RAD before the flow gets to them.

I don't know if it's any better or not but at least in my head I think it's better (even if it's really not) LMAO

PS. I only have that flow indicator on bottom right installed temporarily so I can see if the water is crystal clear or not. I had some major corrosion issues on my last loop and a couple of the parts were re-used so I'm keeping an eye on things that way.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Sequence was everything with this build from the start and I think it wins the award for the most difficult loop to bleed (I'd almost gladly change out a video card but I'd have to bleed again LMAO!). Every RAD is in a different orientation. It's overkill but I definitely see an improvement over my previous loop. Although it was a different CPU and block (same voltage though), I used to hit 85C (highly overclocked X5470) on the previous loop and now with this one I rarely go over 60C even under CPU stress testing. My GPUs used to be around 55C under load and now they hover in the 30's.. lol I'm getting 3.1lph currently. I'm able to turn the fans way down now.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Flow design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that people say it doesn't matter but I couldn't really see how coming out of a block (water just heated) and then going into a rad (to cool it immediately after) would *NOT* be to *SOME* advantage, even if it is just 1C. This being compared to the flow of going through multiple blocks like CPU and GPU and THEN going into a rad. The flow pattern I used starting with the pump/res/rad on the left: _140mmRAD --> (2) GPU blocks --> 140mmRAD --> 420mmRAD --> MB Chipset --> CPU block --> 240mmRAD --> VRM block back to the original 140mmRAD._ The only blocks that are together are the Chipset and CPU all other blocks go into a RAD before the flow gets to them.
> 
> I don't know if it's any better or not but at least in my head I think it's better (even if it's really not) LMAO
> 
> PS. I only have that flow indicator on bottom right installed temporarily so I can see if the water is crystal clear or not. I had some major corrosion issues on my last loop and a couple of the parts were re-used so I'm keeping an eye on things that way.


That is awesome. I guess it does work out for you. I wish I had the balls and the money to do something like that. Space is also an issue here. Right now the way I am looking at my loop is 3 separate loops, one for the CPU, one for the MB, and one for the GPU. That way it is much easier for me to do maintenance on each different loop or part associated with that loop. There are issues with that set up in it self. For one I really do not want to have 3 seperate rads in my system. I am also thinking of using quick connect fittings on the MB connections and/or the GPU.
I prefer clear tubing so I can keep an eye on my water clarity. I also recently had an issue with cloudy water and my loop turning green after the flush and refill. I would not have noticed the green if I did not have clear tubing. I had to flush and change out my tubing 3 times so far. This time I didn't put an of the XT-1 biocide in as someone related to me that the same exact thing has been reported before by others using the XT-1. So right now I am running straight distilled water. The tubing is also older Danger Dan tubing and that could very well be the issue. This way I can tell if it was the XT-1 or the tubing. It has been two full days and so far the water is still crystal clear.


----------



## funsoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Here's the current setup:
> 
> The DRAM voltages are set to the specced 1.65V


Just out of curiosity...have you tried with 125 bclk and compared performance? Works better on my 4930k, think it might be the same case for some 4960x's.


----------



## Rayce185

I did, the difference between 50x100 and 40x125 is unnoticeable and unmesureable.


----------



## funsoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> If 5.0 is an issue even with higher vcore that's a very good indicator that vccsa is the problem. While IB-e isn't known for being highly overclockable *under* 1.4v, if you're willing & able to give it more you should be able to get it well beyond 5ghz. As I said in a previous post, I spent the first 6 months I had my 4930k crashing an average of like once a week, and I couldn't figure out for the life of me why -- nothing I did seemed to stop the crashes, until I bumped up vccsa from 1.2 to 1.215v. I've literally not crashed even once since.


Thought 1.2 and up vccsa can be a bit tough on the cpu? I've been keeping vccsa and vccio at 1.15v (4930k, ln2). Don't want to kill it so have been real hesitant about raising it at all.

He might be able to drop his vtt down a bit, lower is better...somewhere in the1.575-1.675 range should be do-able.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> I did, the difference between 50x100 and 40x125 is unnoticeable and unmesureable.


Awesome. Sorry if I missed that. Thanks!


----------



## Laithan

I'm noticing some behavior that is starting to concern me with regard to wear and tear on hard drives, pumps etc.

It seems like most of the time when I turn my PC on it will come on for 1 second and then immediately shut off.... then a second later it comes on and works normally..

It seems intentional. Anyone know what the deal is and if there's a way to stop it from doing that and just power on without shutting itself off a second later? Is it attempting to drain caps or something for power delivery stability or something (I'm drawing straws..)


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I'm noticing some behavior that is starting to concern me with regard to wear and tear on hard drives, pumps etc.
> 
> It seems like most of the time when I turn my PC on it will come on for 1 second and then immediately shut off.... then a second later it comes on and works normally..
> 
> It seems intentional. Anyone know what the deal is and if there's a way to stop it from doing that and just power on without shutting itself off a second later? Is it attempting to drain caps or something for power delivery stability or something (I'm drawing straws..)


LOL when did you notice?

(It should do that from the very beginning. As long as it always boots, and affects only your primary HDD, there is little concern.)


----------



## Madmaxneo

I need to expand the internal USB 2.0 headers on this MB. Is it better to go with a simple non powered 9 pin splitter cable, a powered splitter cable, or a PCIe card?

It seems that USB 2.0 cards are becoming a rarity these days.

I found a couple of splitter cables that are designed for the onboard headers and have the 9 pin ends.

The only PCIe card I could find only has a single internal 9 pin header and a regular internal USB 2.0 port and it has 4 regular 2.0 ports on the back.

I would go with the PCIe card but I really need at least two internal 9 pin headers because right now I need three more internal 9 pin headers. I am currently using the NZXT addon stick but the last one eventually failed on me and I doubt this one will last long because I am now using all three 9 pin headers on it. PCIe cards tend to be more reliable than that and the NZXT card has a rep for failing over time.

If anyone can point me to a PCIe card with at least two external ports and two internal 9 pin headers I would greatly appreciate it.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I need to expand the internal USB 2.0 headers on this MB. Is it better to go with a simple non powered 9 pin splitter cable, a powered splitter cable, or a PCIe card?
> 
> It seems that USB 2.0 cards are becoming a rarity these days.
> 
> I found a couple of splitter cables that are designed for the onboard headers and have the 9 pin ends.
> 
> The only PCIe card I could find only has a single internal 9 pin header and a regular internal USB 2.0 port and it has 4 regular 2.0 ports on the back.
> 
> I would go with the PCIe card but I really need at least two internal 9 pin headers because right now I need three more internal 9 pin headers. I am currently using the NZXT addon stick but the last one eventually failed on me and I doubt this one will last long because I am now using all three 9 pin headers on it. PCIe cards tend to be more reliable than that and the NZXT card has a rep for failing over time.
> 
> If anyone can point me to a PCIe card with at least two external ports and two internal 9 pin headers I would greatly appreciate it.


Does this help?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORICO-Desktop-7-Port-USB-3-0-5Gpbs-PCI-E-Express-Expansion-Card-VL800-VL812-Chip-/161892882808?hash=item25b1915978:g:uMcAAOSw7hRWQdZu
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14G-0001-00018 not in stock here

Have an internal 3.0 header?
http://www.amazon.com/2-Port-USB-3-0-Female-Adapter/dp/B005AJX9MW/ref=pd_sim_147_48?ie=UTF8&dpID=41mM2UgD0tL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1GSWSYEHDE59F9W7R1GE


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Does this help?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORICO-Desktop-7-Port-USB-3-0-5Gpbs-PCI-E-Express-Expansion-Card-VL800-VL812-Chip-/161892882808?hash=item25b1915978:g:uMcAAOSw7hRWQdZu
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14G-0001-00018 not in stock here
> 
> Have an internal 3.0 header?
> http://www.amazon.com/2-Port-USB-3-0-Female-Adapter/dp/B005AJX9MW/ref=pd_sim_147_48?ie=UTF8&dpID=41mM2UgD0tL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1GSWSYEHDE59F9W7R1GE


Nope. I need USB 2.0 not 3.0.

I can find loads of USB 3.0 but not so much USB 2.0.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Nope. I need USB 2.0 not 3.0.
> 
> I can find loads of USB 3.0 but not so much USB 2.0.


Put in a good effort again for ya, don't think what you are looking for exists in 2.0









Only other option I think...
http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-IU01-Internal-Expansion-Black/dp/B0031ESKJA


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Put in a good effort again for ya, don't think what you are looking for exists in 2.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only other option I think...
> http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-IU01-Internal-Expansion-Black/dp/B0031ESKJA


Yeah thanks for the effort! That NZXT card is what I have already and the last one failed after some time and I do not expect this one to last for long.

The USB 2.0 ones do exist, or rather they did. They are becoming far and few in between to find now. I did find this card on Amazon. That one has one internal header though I really need two internal headers I may just have to work with it.

Now is it ok to connect a straight splitter to a USB 9 pin connection or should I also have additional power added to the connection?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah thanks for the effort! That NZXT card is what I have already and the last one failed after some time and I do not expect this one to last for long.
> 
> The USB 2.0 ones do exist, or rather they did. They are becoming far and few in between to find now. I did find this card on Amazon. That one has one internal header though I really need two internal headers I may just have to work with it.
> 
> Now is it ok to connect a straight splitter to a USB 9 pin connection or should I also have additional power added to the connection?


There are many hubs sold without active power and they (somewhat) work.. of course the better ones have _*active power*_. I would say it depends if your actual USB devices are active or passive powered. There's some math you could do if you could find out the actual power draw of each USB device combined vs the total power of USB 2.0 port but if it was me I'd be looking for an active powered splitter if the devices themselves are not actively powered.


----------



## davi235

Heyy Guys ,

my name is David and i have a big problem with my R4BE board .
After i switched the board from my cooler master case to my new phanteks one the board doesnt post anymore, i get the error code 00.
I cleared cmos , i removed the battery everything but i still the get 00 error code.
Whats very strange is that i cant switch bios 1 & bios 2 , i get stucked on the bios 2 -_-"

can anyone help me please ? =/


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davi235*
> 
> Heyy Guys ,
> 
> my name is David and i have a big problem with my R4BE board .
> After i switched the board from my cooler master case to my new phanteks one the board doesnt post anymore, i get the error code 00.
> I cleared cmos , i removed the battery everything but i still the get 00 error code.
> Whats very strange is that i cant switch bios 1 & bios 2 , i get stucked on the bios 2 -_-"
> 
> can anyone help me please ? =/


Try flashing the BIOS with this method, use a fat32 partitioned USB with the correct .CAP file for the R4BE. Good luck!

http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/USB_BIOS_Flashback_GUIDE/


----------



## davi235

i will give it a try , thanks man =)


----------



## davi235

so i updated the bios but still get the 00 code , i think that my cpu is dead







cpu led lights red


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davi235*
> 
> so i updated the bios but still get the 00 code , i think that my cpu is dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cpu led lights red


I bet you are shorting out on something. Try removing it from case and see if it works???


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I need to expand the internal USB 2.0 headers on this MB. Is it better to go with a simple non powered 9 pin splitter cable, a powered splitter cable, or a PCIe card?
> 
> It seems that USB 2.0 cards are becoming a rarity these days.
> 
> I found a couple of splitter cables that are designed for the onboard headers and have the 9 pin ends.
> 
> The only PCIe card I could find only has a single internal 9 pin header and a regular internal USB 2.0 port and it has 4 regular 2.0 ports on the back.
> 
> I would go with the PCIe card but I really need at least two internal 9 pin headers because right now I need three more internal 9 pin headers. I am currently using the NZXT addon stick but the last one eventually failed on me and I doubt this one will last long because I am now using all three 9 pin headers on it. PCIe cards tend to be more reliable than that and the NZXT card has a rep for failing over time.
> 
> If anyone can point me to a PCIe card with at least two external ports and two internal 9 pin headers I would greatly appreciate it.


DO NOT USE A CABLE SPLITTER

I can not stress that enough...

Usb (2 or 3) CAN NOT be split like that, you *must* have a hub. Otherwise you can and will break stuffs

The nzxt hub is the only one, and actually Pretty high quality.

I don't keep up with USB pcie add in cards sorry.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davi235*
> 
> Heyy Guys ,
> 
> my name is David and i have a big problem with my R4BE board .
> After i switched the board from my cooler master case to my new phanteks one the board doesnt post anymore, i get the error code 00.
> I cleared cmos , i removed the battery everything but i still the get 00 error code.
> Whats very strange is that i cant switch bios 1 & bios 2 , i get stucked on the bios 2 -_-"
> 
> can anyone help me please ? =/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *davi235*
> 
> so i updated the bios but still get the 00 code , i think that my cpu is dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cpu led lights red
> 
> 
> 
> I bet you are shorting out on something. Try removing it from case and see if it works???
Click to expand...

As stated above check that and check to verify all cables are seated well.


----------



## monuk

00 error code is = not used, if you do not already know this. also boot the system with bare minimum and see if the code changes, it could be as simple as getting dust in a slot that throws the mb for it not to boot and give a error.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davi235*
> 
> Heyy Guys ,
> 
> my name is David and i have a big problem with my R4BE board .
> After i switched the board from my cooler master case to my new phanteks one the board doesnt post anymore, i get the error code 00.
> I cleared cmos , i removed the battery everything but i still the get 00 error code.
> Whats very strange is that i cant switch bios 1 & bios 2 , i get stucked on the bios 2 -_-"
> 
> can anyone help me please ? =/


I had the similar problem when I fist installed this board. At first it wouldn't even start up and I even called EVGA tech support and we determined that it was not the PSU as I thought. Then I started getting that error code. I pulled all the connections off then put them back in and made sure they were all nice and tight. I did this like 3 times and then it finally booted up and I have not had a problem since.

I'd say to double check the MB CPU pins and make sure some of them did not get bent when installing the CPU. Though you should be getting some kind of error code if that was the case.

Please keep us updated!


----------



## Mega Man

After reseating everything (power plugs and verifying nothing is shorting out ) that is Def the next step


----------



## davi235

ok guys i will take the mobo and cpu out to test it


----------



## funsoul

Hi Folks!

Trying to figure out how to get more out of my 4930k (under LN2) on a riv black. Was going to ask for help here but found the 4930k overclocking help thread so figured it belongs there. http://www.overclock.net/t/1426258/overclocking-i7-4930k-help/1350#post_25051756

Any ideas, thoughts, guidance, etc would be very welcomed!
Tia!


----------



## Rayce185

Ouch. That really hurts... I'm sorry to hear!


----------



## davi235

i m lucky that my board survive it ....


----------



## seross69

A look at what a Intel 750 400GB PCI-E NVMe SSDcan do on this board!!





I filmed a restart after I had updated all the motherboard drivers and it did a restart in 29 seconds!!!! Fast!!!!


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> A look at what a Intel 750 400GB PCI-E NVMe SSDcan do on this board!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filmed a restart after I had updated all the motherboard drivers and it did a restart in 29 seconds!!!! Fast!!!!


Impressive.. would like to see AS SSD benchie....

ALT+PRT SCRN+PAINT+PASTE


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Impressive.. would like to see AS SSD benchie....
> 
> ALT+PRT SCRN+PAINT+PASTE


I could not remember that and did not have a USB drive to use anyway!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

You running windows 8 or 7? I believe my reboot time is about 30 seconds, but I use windows 10 and that is a fast boot OS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> A look at what a Intel 750 400GB PCI-E NVMe SSDcan do on this board!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filmed a restart after I had updated all the motherboard drivers and it did a restart in 29 seconds!!!! Fast!!!!


You running windows 8 or 7? I believe my reboot time is about 30 seconds, but I use windows 10 and that is a fast boot OS especially on a SATA III SSD..


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You running windows 8 or 7? I believe my reboot time is about 30 seconds, but I use windows 10 and that is a fast boot OS.
> You running windows 8 or 7? I believe my reboot time is about 30 seconds, but I use windows 10 and that is a fast boot OS especially on a SATA III SSD..


That was win 10 instalking 5 drivers during the reboot!! Loads programs oh so fast also i have been using raid 0 samsung 85o pros and this is fast by a wide margin


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> That was win 10 instalking 5 drivers during the reboot!! Loads programs oh so fast also i have been using raid 0 samsung 85o pros and this is fast by a wide margin


If it was that fast and installing new drivers then that is awesome! I am thinking of getting one of those drives but they are to expensive for me right now. I am currently using a 256gb 840 pro SSD as my boot disk.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> If it was that fast and installing new drivers then that is awesome! I am thinking of getting one of those drives but they are to expensive for me right now. I am currently using a 256gb 840 pro SSD as my boot disk.


I used pc parts picker and set the price to be notified at 250 and was able to buy for 249.99!! On newegg a few days ago they had the 800gb one for 499.95


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I used pc parts picker and set the price to be notified at 250 and was able to buy for 249.99!! On newegg a few days ago they had the 800gb one for 499.95


Yeah they are $300 on Newegg right now. I am debating. Though not really sure on that. I just timed my restart to the login screen and it takes about 33 seconds total. I don't time from the login screen because if I do that I would mess up because I would be pressured into going fast...lol.

*I need some good advice from the people here at the MB club!* Right now I am looking at a higher capacity (4TB) drive for my games. I currently have a 2tb WD black and I have to keep deleting games off that and still have not installed many of the recent games I purchased. I am looking at two Seagate drives. One is their standard 4tb drive and the other is the SSHD Hybrid drive. I can get the 4TB SSHD for only $144 right now. But I want to know if anyone has had any real "gaming" experience with a SSHD and does it make any real difference especially with load times?

Please note that I know about the distrust some people have over Seagate but I have been doing some research and both 4tb drives I am looking at get good reviews from users. I can also get a a 2 year data recovery warranty for the drive, though it will only be used for video games.

So what do you all think?


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I filmed a restart after I had updated all the motherboard drivers and it did a restart in 29 seconds!!!! Fast!!!!


I had that fast boot speeds on Constellation ES.3 as well. Perhaps you should disable some unneeded services.

Or better. Install Linux into dual boot, and benchmark Linux boot time. (It should be blast on fast SSD.)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I used pc parts picker and set the price to be notified at 250 and was able to buy for 249.99!! On newegg a few days ago they had the 800gb one for 499.95


I did a search for the PCIe drives and only a few popped up. Will this drive work with the RIVBE?


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I did a search for the PCIe drives and only a few popped up. Will this drive work with the RIVBE?


Why would you want to connect SATA3 drive through PCIe, have you used up all the SATA3 ports?









NVME is another thing entirely. I also recommend Intel's 750 series, tested and it works on RIVBE.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I did a search for the PCIe drives and only a few popped up. Will this drive work with the RIVBE?


it should but your transfer rates will be limited to about 500, the intel drives have the NVme and work faster, you could get this card and a samsund 950 or 951 and would be a lot faster. this is the samsun g NVME m.2 drives


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Why would you want to connect SATA3 drive through PCIe, have you used up all the SATA3 ports?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NVME is another thing entirely. I also recommend Intel's 750 series, tested and it works on RIVBE.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it should but your transfer rates will be limited to about 500, the intel drives have the NVme and work faster, you could get this card and a samsund 950 or 951 and would be a lot faster. this is the samsun g NVME m.2 drives


Oops, wrong link. Sorry fellas! Here is the drive I was talking about.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oops, wrong link. Sorry fellas! Here is the drive I was talking about.[/quote
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oops, wrong link. Sorry fellas! Here is the drive I was talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> it should work fine, I do not know about the speeds they are claiming. If you do get a NVME drive you will just about have to use win 10. they are a few work arounds for this but not everyone made it work that was not using win 10. basically you have to load the NVME drive during installation if you want to use this as boot drive.
> 
> I would just stick with the intel 750 if I was you as it is their technology and it works great
Click to expand...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it should work fine, I do not know about the speeds they are claiming. If you do get a NVME drive you will just about have to use win 10. they are a few work arounds for this but not everyone made it work that was not using win 10. basically you have to load the NVME drive during installation if you want to use this as boot drive.
> 
> I would just stick with the intel 750 if I was you as it is their technology and it works great


I have not been able to find a 256gb (or a 240gb) drive for the Intel 750's. Do they even sell those?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have not been able to find a 256gb (or a 240gb) drive for the Intel 750's. Do they even sell those?


no smallest is 400gb, they have 400, 800 and 1.2tb


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> no smallest is 400gb, they have 400, 800 and 1.2tb


Yeah, that is kind of expensive for me. I think if I do this I will go with the kingston Hyper X I posted and see what happens.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah, that is kind of expensive for me. I think if I do this I will go with the kingston Hyper X I posted and see what happens.


up to you man you know your needs and finances better than anyone. but if I was you I would get this and aAddonics M2 PCIe SSD - PCIe 3.0 4-Lane Adapter this would be much faster and stay in 120 to 140 price range!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> up to you man you know your needs and finances better than anyone. but if I was you I would get this and aAddonics M2 PCIe SSD - PCIe 3.0 4-Lane Adapter this would be much faster and stay in 120 to 140 price range!!


Unfortunately the 256gb is my minimum drive size. I did set a price alert on pcpartpicker.com for $250 on the Intel 400gb drive. If that happens in the next two weeks I might be able to purchase it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am about to do some custom lighting in my case as I am adding some UV lights. But all the lights I purchased have their own molex connectors so I am thinking I will need to wire it all myself. I have an idea of what I want to do but I need to find a way to connect the wires to each other without using electrical tape. I want to be able to create a length of wire that has more connections than I currently have use for so I can add UV lights later. I am thinking of using bullet splice connections but the smallest I could find at the hardware store are the 22-16 AWG. I did find these smaller ones on Amazon.

Is there a better way to do this that what I have planned?


----------



## seross69

good luck then
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am about to do some custom lighting in my case as I am adding some UV lights. But all the lights I purchased have their own molex connectors so I am thinking I will need to wire it all myself. I have an idea of what I want to do but I need to find a way to connect the wires to each other without using electrical tape. I want to be able to create a length of wire that has more connections than I currently have use for so I can add UV lights later. I am thinking of using bullet splice connections but the smallest I could find at the hardware store are the 22-16 AWG. I did find these smaller ones on Amazon.
> 
> Is there a better way to do this that what I have planned?


to make it real easy you could use the Wago connectors like below



do a web search for them.. Wago221 series


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> good luck then
> to make it real easy you could use the Wago connectors like below
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do a web search for them.. Wago221 series


I do like those but would be impractical for what I am trying to do, here is a simple wiring diagram that I did real quick to give a better idea:


Edit: I found something called T connectors, if I can find them small enough and be quick connect then I will use those.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I do like those but would be impractical for what I am trying to do, here is a simple wiring diagram that I did real quick to give a better idea:
> 
> 
> Edit: I found something called T connectors, if I can find them small enough and be quick connect then I will use those.


T connectors would work but so would those I showed you do not have time to draw it out for you right now. but it really is whatever you think works better and you can make work for you!


----------



## seross69

double post sorry


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> T connectors would work but so would those I showed you do not have time to draw it out for you right now. but it really is whatever you think works better and you can make work for you!


I found these and they are perfect for what I need.


----------



## Laithan

If my 4.8Ghz O/C is perfectly stable with Hyperhreading OFF, any suggestions as to what I might need to adjust when turning hyper-threading ON (no other settings changed) and I can't even boot into windows.


----------



## Mega Man

From what I hear, more v core. I never tried to ocing with it off


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> From what I hear, more v core. I never tried to ocing with it off


Thank you for the suggestion. I was able to boot into windows with additional vcore but Cinebench would produce a 0x124 code. I fiddled with stepping up vcore and VTT voltage as well as stepping it down and once in a while the test would begin but then immediately crash. I would sometimes get 0x101 errors also. I tried all the way up to 1.5v vcore just to see if that made a diff. LLC currently = HIGH.

I wonder if I just sort of have a "dud" CPU or there's another tweak somewhere for this. My settings are very similar to the ones Rayce shared for his 5Ghz O/C but I could post them in detail if it might help.

Honestly I am a gamer which is why I immediately disabled hyperthreading when I got this system up and running. Of course sometimes I want to just benchmark too









For others that are trying to reach a higher O/C, perhaps it might help you if you disabled hyperthreading also. I'm rock solid stable @ 4.8Ghz when it's disabled... It's interesting.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Thank you for the suggestion. I was able to boot into windows with additional vcore but Cinebench would produce a 0x124 code. I fiddled with stepping up vcore and VTT voltage as well as stepping it down and once in a while the test would begin but then immediately crash. I would sometimes get 0x101 errors also. I tried all the way up to 1.5v vcore just to see if that made a diff. LLC currently = HIGH.
> 
> I wonder if I just sort of have a "dud" CPU or there's another tweak somewhere for this. My settings are very similar to the ones Rayce shared for his 5Ghz O/C but I could post them in detail if it might help.
> 
> Honestly I am a gamer which is why I immediately disabled hyperthreading when I got this system up and running. Of course sometimes I want to just benchmark too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For others that are trying to reach a higher O/C, perhaps it might help you if you disabled hyperthreading also. I'm rock solid stable @ 4.8Ghz when it's disabled... It's interesting.


From what I have read and watched (youtube) there is not that much of a difference with or without hyperthreading, though with hyperthreading on you will get a slightly better (2 - 5) FPS. I have also heard that with the more intense games that use more cores hyperthreading makes even more of a difference.


----------



## Raghar

HT is useless. Thought I wonder on how much stable is your OC, because HT just adds 10W of power to that. If your heatsink isn't at limit, a VERY slight bump in voltage would solve it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> HT is useless. Thought I wonder on how much stable is your OC, because HT just adds 10W of power to that. If your heatsink isn't at limit, a VERY slight bump in voltage would solve it.


HT is no useless it helps me a lot in what i do with my PC


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> HT is useless. Thought I wonder on how much stable is your OC, because HT just adds 10W of power to that. If your heatsink isn't at limit, a VERY slight bump in voltage would solve it.


I'm on a custom loop, EK Supremacy EVO block. Temps hover in the 50's under load. I gave it 1.5v I don't think I want HT bad enough to try higher than that







. My motherboard VRMs and chipset is also blocked.

I'm also still running 64GB (8 sticks), wonder if this could be the reason...

I sorta blocked a couple of my sticks in with some fittings so removing the ram isn't as easy as spoken







I think that's my next step though... 64GB is a waste of money I so regret this..


----------



## Raghar

64 GB is nice. You can have 1020 Chrome tabs open at once. Also next 12 years you probably can play all games without worrying about running out of RAM. And you can run WoW server and play WoW at the same PC.
Of course the downside is two sticks on one channel will probably be more sensitive to tight timings. But considering it's quad channel, tight timings are not really necessary.

Perhaps your CPU needs some dark silicon to get heat from proper place to allow stable OC at 4.8GHz.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> 64 GB is nice. You can have 1020 Chrome tabs open at once. Also next 12 years you probably can play all games without worrying about running out of RAM. And you can run WoW server and play WoW at the same PC.
> Of course the downside is two sticks on one channel will probably be more sensitive to tight timings. But considering it's quad channel, tight timings are not really necessary.
> 
> Perhaps your CPU needs some dark silicon to get heat from proper place to allow stable OC at 4.8GHz.


64gb is very good to have to have a ram drive to speed up cad, encoding and working with pictures


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 64gb is very good to have to have a ram drive to speed up cad, encoding and working with pictures


I'd aim at 128 GB for that. This board supports 128 GB from BIOS 8xx.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 64gb is very good to have to have a ram drive to speed up cad, encoding and working with pictures


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> I'd aim at 128 GB for that. This board supports 128 GB from BIOS 8xx.


Either of you have any experience with RAMDISK software? If so what do you use?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Either of you have any experience with RAMDISK software? If so what do you use?


Not enough to help i have played with the one that cimes with the board some and have bought one from the same company that makes disc partion have not used it yet but plan on extensive testing in june


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Not enough to help i have played with the one that cimes with the board some and have bought one from the same company that makes disc partion have not used it yet but plan on extensive testing in june


Awesome, keep us updated!


----------



## Mega Man

you have to be very careful with how you use it.

ESP if you dont have a ups, if you use it for critical files an improper shutdown can corrupt or damage them , if you use for other things ( photo editing or gaming )then you are generally ok ...


----------



## Rangerscott

Super late to the party but got a new one and pairing with a 4930K.

Just hung up on ram. Got triple 4gb sticks of dominator 2000 but finding one stick is impossible and still waiting on a member to reply back to their sale.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you have to be very careful with how you use it.
> 
> ESP if you dont have a ups, if you use it for critical files an improper shutdown can corrupt or damage them , if you use for other things ( photo editing or gaming )then you are generally ok ...


I have a low end EPS but an UPS for my system would be expensive considering I have a 1000 watt psu. I don't fully utilize it with just one GTX 980 but that and the cpu are both OC'd so I am not even exactly sure how much I actually use.
So RAMDISK actually stores the files on the RAM itself.
If I were to get it I would use it primarily for gaming but also for some 3d rendering, that I consequently have not done in a long time....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> Super late to the party but got a new one and pairing with a 4930K.
> 
> Just hung up on ram. Got triple 4gb sticks of dominator 2000 but finding one stick is impossible and still waiting on a member to reply back to their sale.


Well if you need that particular RAM I recommend purchasing it all at once as one set in the packaging. Though I have never encountered problems with purchasing the same RAM at different times others have reported instability issues when OCing.


----------



## Laithan

*Ramdisk bullets*

* Ram disk is not compatible with a pagefile / running without a pagefile is problematic with some apps
* You can run into some strange issues trying to set the O/S temp files to use a ramdisk (I am 99% certain this is because the ramdisk is not present during system bootup and is only loaded @ user logon because it works fine with a real disk)
* Running apps/games from it really isn't "noticeably" faster if you've already got a fast SSD (especially if in RAID 0)
* Surprisingly many "Next GEN AAA" games don't even fit in a 64GB ram disk (well, 48GB leaving 16GB for the O/S)
* Setting your internet browser cache to use a ramdisk has shown me no noticeable improvements

I'm really struggling to find a true practical use for a ramdisk other than just a benchmark.

Help me find one if you can


----------



## Madmaxneo

Does this MB support NVMe boot? I am looking at getting a PCIe M.2 adapter with possibly a 950 pro.


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well if you need that particular RAM I recommend purchasing it all at once as one set in the packaging. Though I have never encountered problems with purchasing the same RAM at different times others have reported instability issues when OCing.


It was a triple channel package. Wish the dude on here would answer my pm and let me know if he still has the ram for sale. Would like to get his and sell mine.


----------



## Rangerscott

Ha. Just found the same quad channel kit of ebay for $110. 16gb 2133mhz sticks.

Only thing thats gonna suck is taking my raid 0 harddrives, hooking up the new stuff and Windows wanting to re-verify my key. I haven't had that around for a long time and my old email got wiped out for not logging on for so long.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> It was a triple channel package. Wish the dude on here would answer my pm and let me know if he still has the ram for sale. Would like to get his and sell mine.


I believe triple channel means only 3 sticks. Though I could be wrong. Why not just get 4 sticks of RAM and go quad channel?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> *Ramdisk bullets*
> 
> * Ram disk is not compatible with a pagefile / running without a pagefile is problematic with some apps
> * You can run into some strange issues trying to set the O/S temp files to use a ramdisk (I am 99% certain this is because the ramdisk is not present during system bootup and is only loaded @ user logon because it works fine with a real disk)
> * Running apps/games from it really isn't "noticeably" faster if you've already got a fast SSD (especially if in RAID 0)
> * Surprisingly many "Next GEN AAA" games don't even fit in a 64GB ram disk (well, 48GB leaving 16GB for the O/S)
> * Setting your internet browser cache to use a ramdisk has shown me no noticeable improvements
> 
> I'm really struggling to find a true practical use for a ramdisk other than just a benchmark.
> 
> Help me find one if you can


below is a few of the good reasons- there are a few others but mostly not what general users do ....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> 64 GB is nice. You can have 1020 Chrome tabs open at once. Also next 12 years you probably can play all games without worrying about running out of RAM. And you can run WoW server and play WoW at the same PC.
> Of course the downside is two sticks on one channel will probably be more sensitive to tight timings. But considering it's quad channel, tight timings are not really necessary.
> 
> Perhaps your CPU needs some dark silicon to get heat from proper place to allow stable OC at 4.8GHz.
> 
> 
> 
> 64gb is very good to have to have a ram drive to speed up cad, encoding and working with pictures
Click to expand...


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I believe triple channel means only 3 sticks. Though I could be wrong. Why not just get 4 sticks of RAM and go quad channel?


Its what I have. Currently running x58. Doesnt matter now. Got a quad kit coming my way.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Does this MB support NVMe boot? I am looking at getting a PCIe M.2 adapter with possibly a 950 pro.


I have a intel 750 in this board!! Using win 10, can use 7 but a lot if trouble as you have to load drivers first!

Also get the 951 imho faster iops and usually better price


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> Ha. Just found the same quad channel kit of ebay for $110. 16gb 2133mhz sticks.
> 
> Only thing thats gonna suck is taking my raid 0 harddrives, hooking up the new stuff and Windows wanting to re-verify my key. I haven't had that around for a long time and my old email got wiped out for not logging on for so long.


I missed this
Yeah RAM is really cheap right now, especially DDR4. Because of DDR4 prices I have been tinkering with the idea of doing an X99 build, or maybe even that other one Z710 or something like that.
But I am honestly waiting to see if they come out with a RVBE. I am hoping to see some really good features added to the board.

Speaking of board features; I wonder if any of the MB manufacturers have ever thought of adding a MB cooling system to the board? Or at least making it so you can easily add a loop to the board without voiding the warranty.
For the RVBE, I hope they add some features to the control unit that allow more people to take full use of it without going to extreme cooling options. That and the MB watercooling option would be a huge positive marketing play for ASUS. I hope for the days of such motherboards......

*Just to reiterate because I think it got passed by:*
Does this MB support NVMe boot? I am looking at getting a PCIe M.2 adapter with possibly a 950 pro.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have a intel 750 in this board!! Using win 10, can use 7 but a lot if trouble as you have to load drivers first!
> 
> Also get the 951 imho faster iops and usually better price


Ha I posted my above post shortly after you posted that...lol. I asked that question thinking that the NVMe for the M.2 drives was different than the actual PCIe drives.


----------



## seross69

SSD and HDD Blow out...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1597893/ssd-and-hdd-blow-out-get-a-deal-while-you-can-make-a-offer-all-will-be-considered


----------



## Madmaxneo

I need to get a new antenna for my wifi/bluetooth. I was about to purchase this one then I saw these
From what I have read the first ones which is the stock antenna that came with the MB have a 2 dbi but the other ones I saw have a 9dbi. Is a 9dbi better than a 2 dbi? Reading upon it the higher the dbi (gain) the more efficient the antenna's performance as indicated on this page.

Anyone have any experience with these antennas?


----------



## Rangerscott

I cant find a review on the monoblock for our MB.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> I cant find a review on the monoblock for our MB.


What do you want to know?? I have ran both mono-block and cpu block with seperate board cooling!


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> What do you want to know?? I have ran both mono-block and cpu block with seperate board cooling!


Performance. Mono versus 3 seperate blocks.

I do see mono wins on less connections and hoses.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> Performance. Mono versus 3 seperate blocks.
> 
> I do see mono wins on less connections and hoses.


yes it is a lot easier to plumb up but actually the Seperate CPU block does 2 or 3 degrees better if I remember right from the reviews and I do not remember where the reviews are anymore??

In my experience I liked the monoblock better but I am not using a separate CPU block and motherboard kit.

There is not enough performance difference to not just use what you like best. The motherboard kit or motherboard cooling by the monoblock is really just for ascetics because it is not suppose to make a differance or cool any better than the stock heat sinks. I do not know how that is possible but I never pushed my board hard enough to tell you if there are a differance.

I am running a i7-4960X at 4.8GHz at a little over 1.3 volts and this is with 64GB of ram running at 2400MHz


----------



## Madmaxneo

So Asus has made a MB with water cooling options installed it is the ROG MAXIMUS VIII FORMULA. I wonder if they will add something like that to the Rampage V anytime in the near future?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So Asus has made a MB with water cooling options installed it is the ROG MAXIMUS VIII FORMULA. I wonder if they will add something like that to the Rampage V anytime in the near future?


Yes they have made several that is dual option like that board usually the formula boards!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Interesting. Would it not make sense then to do that with their extreme OC boards, like the Rampage?


----------



## Rangerscott

I have a zotac 980ti thats water\air cooled. Was surprised how cool it runs on just air.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yes they have made several that is dual option like that board usually the formula boards!


How are those boards for OCing? I have been thinking and if I can find another ASUS board with pretty much the same features I may not go with the BE next time. I do not plan on using LN2 anytime here soon.....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> How are those boards for OCing? I have been thinking and if I can find another ASUS board with pretty much the same features I may not go with the BE next time. I do not plan on using LN2 anytime here soon.....


Over clocks good for the average person. Look at 3d mark scores and i am sure you will see plenty of the formula boards


----------



## seross69

Has anyone had trouble with their overclocks after upgradeing or downgrading to win 10?? before I was able to get 4.8 @ 1.38v but now I can not do this at all.. Tried up to 1.45 and still not boot into windows I really think this is something to do with win 10!! As I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut High Performance Thermal Grease on the CPU and wanted to get some heat so it might flow so I turned off my pumps and as soon as a core hit 91 C it would shut down and say hardwear error, i can remember going to about 95 on the cores trying to get the indigo to flow on Win 7 so I think Microsoft has more control in the bios somehow like I had read before.

I know I have stated that no way they could do this as this is hardware and before the OS but I am really wondering now if they might not have some control over the bios??


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Has anyone had trouble with their overclocks after upgradeing or downgrading to win 10?? before I was able to get 4.8 @ 1.38v but now I can not do this at all.. Tried up to 1.45 and still not boot into windows I really think this is something to do with win 10!! As I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut High Performance Thermal Grease on the CPU and wanted to get some heat so it might flow so I turned off my pumps and as soon as a core hit 91 C it would shut down and say hardwear error, i can remember going to about 95 on the cores trying to get the indigo to flow on Win 7 so I think Microsoft has more control in the bios somehow like I had read before.
> 
> I know I have stated that no way they could do this as this is hardware and before the OS but I am really wondering now if they might not have some control over the bios??


You're not the only one
http://www.overclock.net/t/1569646/cant-overclock-in-windows-10

Mr. Google returns lots of hits also... There's even yewtoob vids

The list of issues with Win10 is waaay too long already and growing exponentially.. I stay far away from it.. Loving good 'ol Win7


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> You're not the only one
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1569646/cant-overclock-in-windows-10
> 
> Mr. Google returns lots of hits also... There's even yewtoob vids
> 
> The list of issues with Win10 is waaay too long already and growing exponentially.. I stay far away from it.. Loving good 'ol Win7


maybe I need to upgrade the bios!! I will try this when I can and see if it helps..

I know the Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut High Performance Thermal Grease is awesome TIM using a 560 with 2 fans on it cooling GPU's,CPU, Memory and M/B under full 100% load at 4.6Ghz 1.3v highest temp I saw was 39 and this is with room temp of 21 a Lot better than before.... Before It was under 50 and I was happy but this is a lot better!!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Has anyone had trouble with their overclocks after upgradeing or downgrading to win 10?? before I was able to get 4.8 @ 1.38v but now I can not do this at all.. Tried up to 1.45 and still not boot into windows I really think this is something to do with win 10!! As I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut High Performance Thermal Grease on the CPU and wanted to get some heat so it might flow so I turned off my pumps and as soon as a core hit 91 C it would shut down and say hardwear error, i can remember going to about 95 on the cores trying to get the indigo to flow on Win 7 so I think Microsoft has more control in the bios somehow like I had read before.
> 
> I know I have stated that no way they could do this as this is hardware and before the OS but I am really wondering now if they might not have some control over the bios??


FYI, I have been running windows 10 since it was released and I have had a pretty good experience so far, that is except for the driver updates from ASUS for this board.

But, if I remember correctly a few others have reported problems with using offset vcore (or some other offset value) as it seems windows sets that value back to a lower setting.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Has anyone had trouble with their overclocks after upgradeing or downgrading to win 10?? before I was able to get 4.8 @ 1.38v but now I can not do this at all.. Tried up to 1.45 and still not boot into windows I really think this is something to do with win 10!! As I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut High Performance Thermal Grease on the CPU and wanted to get some heat so it might flow so I turned off my pumps and as soon as a core hit 91 C it would shut down and say hardwear error, i can remember going to about 95 on the cores trying to get the indigo to flow on Win 7 so I think Microsoft has more control in the bios somehow like I had read before.
> 
> I know I have stated that no way they could do this as this is hardware and before the OS but I am really wondering now if they might not have some control over the bios??


several people have had to REINSTALL after "upgrading" then their oc works fine ( in the threads that i follow )


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> maybe I need to upgrade the bios!! I will try this when I can and see if it helps..
> 
> I know the Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut High Performance Thermal Grease is awesome TIM using a 560 with 2 fans on it cooling GPU's,CPU, Memory and M/B under full 100% load at 4.6Ghz 1.3v highest temp I saw was 39 and this is with room temp of 21 a Lot better than before.... Before It was under 50 and I was happy but this is a lot better!!!!


Your room temp is 21, Is that in Celsius?

If so, that is cold!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Windows 10 from 7, same overclocking with my 1680 V2.

No problems.


----------



## mkempes82

Hey Guys,

still rocking with this mobo (bios 0701), 4960x cooled by a swiftech h220 and 16 gb Corsair dominator Platinum 2400 CL9...are these scores regular?...



I'd like to overclock using 125 MHz strap...are there any particular settings in bios to make this?

i'm planning to pass to win 10 pro 64 bit....is there anyone using this mobo on win 10?...i read there are a lot of issues in overclock...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mkempes82*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> still rocking with this mobo (bios 0701), 4960x cooled by a swiftech h220 and 16 gb Corsair dominator Platinum 2400 CL9...are these scores regular?...
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to overclock using 125 MHz strap...are there any particular settings in bios to make this?
> 
> i'm planning to pass to win 10 pro 64 bit....is there anyone using this mobo on win 10?...i read there are a lot of issues in overclock...


I have mine on Windows 10. The only issue I have had is USB 2.0 devices not starting with the board when in USB 3.0 ports. The only way to get them running again is to unplug the USB cable then plug it in again. Otherwise I have had nothing but a great experience with Windows 10. I'd have to say so far it is a much better at start than Windows XP was and so far that used to be my best experience when upgrading to a newer OS.

Regardless there are a few others that have reported issues with using offset vcore in windows 10 (and 8.1 for that matter). Apparently windows does not like allow offset vcore to work. I don't use that but that is something to look at.

Your temps look real good but what is your OC at right now (for both CPU and RAM) and are you using watercooling? If you are OCing high and have watercooling those temps are pretty good. My temps are around 30 deg C at idle but I am also at 4.3 ghz for my OC. Which is consequently my max stable OC.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Windows 10 from 7, same overclocking with my 1680 V2.
> 
> No problems.


I've still got the itch for one of those.







Saw two recently sell for $999.. Considering some are still priced at $1500 it made me look anyway.. Still might wait for them to drop but I also suspect there probably aren't a lot of these in circulation either..

What is your max stable O/C on that beast?


----------



## mkempes82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have mine on Windows 10. The only issue I have had is USB 2.0 devices not starting with the board when in USB 3.0 ports. The only way to get them running again is to unplug the USB cable then plug it in again. Otherwise I have had nothing but a great experience with Windows 10. I'd have to say so far it is a much better at start than Windows XP was and so far that used to be my best experience when upgrading to a newer OS.
> 
> Regardless there are a few others that have reported issues with using offset vcore in windows 10 (and 8.1 for that matter). Apparently windows does not like allow offset vcore to work. I don't use that but that is something to look at.
> 
> Your temps look real good but what is your OC at right now (for both CPU and RAM) and are you using watercooling? If you are OCing high and have watercooling those temps are pretty good. My temps are around 30 deg C at idle but I am also at 4.3 ghz for my OC. Which is consequently my max stable OC.


Thanks for your answer, Madmaxneo....









About usb2.0, i use usb 2.0 devices in usb 2.0 ports, so no issue...about vcore, i prefer vcore fixed with all power settings disabled in BIOS...so i think i'll install windows 10 OS on this platform as soon as possible in order to test it...

About my overclock, as you can read in the prvious screenshot, i manage to hit 4960x @4.8 GHz (multi=48 BLCK=100.00) with 1.370V (vocre fixed), cooled by a Swiftech H220 AIO with 2 Scythe Grand Flex 2400 PWM in push...RAM is at 2400 9-11-11-28-1T with VTT=1.1V and VCCSA=1.125V (but i can try to lower these values if they are too high)...
this oc seems pretty stable after 25 runs of LinX (using 6 Gb of RAM) and 2 hours of RealBench using up to 16 Gb of RAM...
Now, i'd like overclock raising up the bclk=125...is there any particular tweaks or bios settings in order to do use bclk=125?
How do you test your overclock?what's your cooling system???
i


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I've still got the itch for one of those.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw two recently sell for $999.. Considering some are still priced at $1500 it made me look anyway.. Still might wait for them to drop but I also suspect there probably aren't a lot of these in circulation either..
> 
> What is your max stable O/C on that beast?


Max stable would be 4.625GHz with 1.35v or so, but I leave it @4.5Ghz 1.275v. Ram 16gbs @2666Mhz cl10. It's in the back of my mind to sell it though, I'm thinking about it.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Max stable would be 4.625GHz with 1.35v or so, but I leave it @4.5Ghz 1.275v. Ram 16gbs @2666Mhz cl10. It's in the back of my mind to sell it though, I'm thinking about it.


That's not bad at all! Do you happen to know if that's typical or considered really good? I was sort of hoping you would say 4.8Ghz but I know that's asking a LOT from an 8-core CPU.. I just want to keep my same O/C but add 2 more cores


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> That's not bad at all! Do you happen to know if that's typical or considered really good? I was sort of hoping you would say 4.8Ghz but I know that's asking a LOT from an 8-core CPU.. I just want to keep my same O/C but add 2 more cores


Seen one 4.4Ghz, two 4.5Ghz and one 4.7Ghz on OCN so far with myself and others running a 1680 V2.

If I pumped 1.425v into it, I'm sure it can do 4.7Ghz stable on the 100 strap. But then I would have to run my ram @2133Mhz because of the write bug on the next memory multi.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Seen one 4.4Ghz, two 4.5Ghz and one 4.7Ghz on OCN so far with myself and others running a 1680 V2.
> 
> If I pumped 1.425v into it, I'm sure it can do 4.7Ghz stable on the 100 strap. But then I would have to run my ram @2133Mhz because of the write bug on the next memory multi.


thanks for the help and advice on the intel 750 I have put one on mine and it is awesome!! Best investment I have made in a long time. Only thing I regret is not getting the 800 GB one instead of the 400.

I have my water cooled and customized take a look here to see!!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1597986/build-log-ukrainian-banderas-dedicated-to-the-freedom-of-ukraine/0_50#post_25098571


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mkempes82*
> 
> Thanks for your answer, Madmaxneo....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About usb2.0, i use usb 2.0 devices in usb 2.0 ports, so no issue...about vcore, i prefer vcore fixed with all power settings disabled in BIOS...so i think i'll install windows 10 OS on this platform as soon as possible in order to test it...
> 
> About my overclock, as you can read in the prvious screenshot, i manage to hit 4960x @4.8 GHz (multi=48 BLCK=100.00) with 1.370V (vocre fixed), cooled by a Swiftech H220 AIO with 2 Scythe Grand Flex 2400 PWM in push...RAM is at 2400 9-11-11-28-1T with VTT=1.1V and VCCSA=1.125V (but i can try to lower these values if they are too high)...
> this oc seems pretty stable after 25 runs of LinX (using 6 Gb of RAM) and 2 hours of RealBench using up to 16 Gb of RAM...
> Now, i'd like overclock raising up the bclk=125...is there any particular tweaks or bios settings in order to do use bclk=125?
> How do you test your overclock?what's your cooling system???
> i


I am going to have to get a PCIeUSB 2.0 card to include all the USB 2.0 devices I have.
As far as that screenshot goes, I can't see any indication what clock speed you are using. But if you hit 4.8 ghz with those temps at idle then you are doing pretty good. I have never really messed with my baseclock settings except for once and it did not work out well as with my current OC even with a BClock of 105 did not work. My system is in my sig and I am running the H240-X to cool my CPU. I usually just run OCCT as I have had a bad experience with prime95 on this chip. I could hit 4.4ghz for about 15 min before but one time I got a BSOD that was hard to recover from and since then I can't stay at 4.4 for more than a few minutes till I see the BSOD. I am 4.3 now and have not had any problems for just about a year now.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> thanks for the help and advice on the intel 750 I have put one on mine and it is awesome!! Best investment I have made in a long time. Only thing I regret is not getting the 800 GB one instead of the 400.
> 
> I have my water cooled and customized take a look here to see!!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1597986/build-log-ukrainian-banderas-dedicated-to-the-freedom-of-ukraine/0_50#post_25098571


No problem, and your rig looks real nice!


----------



## AaronTee

I'd like to say G'day to you all. Here's my entry ticket. I have had the board for over 2 years now, and the system has never, ever missed a beat. It's the most powerful system within all my friendship circles and arouses quite a bit of envy amongst some of them lol.


----------



## Zimzoid

Me I,m on my second, first died and took the 3930k with it, second has worked flawlessly..been tempted to go x99 buy really why?


----------



## Rangerscott

Only reason I see for x99 is to have ddr4 unless I missed something.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Me I,m on my second, first died and took the 3930k with it, second has worked flawlessly..been tempted to go x99 buy really why?


I agree. But; From a quick search it seems the X99 boards are cheaper than their X79 counterparts. RAM is cheap now a days on both sides of the track with pretty much the same prices, but you can hit way higher speeds with the DDR4 ram and from what I understand (which does not say a lot..lol) is that the DDR4 is not affected by CAS latency as much as DDR3 is. You can find less expensive comparable CPU's in the 2011 V3 category, the 5930k is up to $200 cheaper than the 4930k. But so far as I have heard the socket 2011 cpu's OC better like when comparing the 5930k to the 4930k.
In general the X99 CPU;s have a higher clock count than their X79 counterparts, except for the 5930k mentioned as that only has 6 cores like the 4930k.
The X99 chipset also natively supports usb 3.0 and supports more SATA 3 connections.
Here is an interesting article that compares the the X79 and the X99 chipset.

The Rampage V Extreme board does have all those plus it finally has M.2 sockets onboard.

But to be honest you probably will not see that much of a performance gain (if any) when comparing to similar X79 set up.
If you were buying new and wanted to decide between either chipset then I would recomment the X99 because it is newer tech and seems to be less expensive overall.Though if you live near a microcenter you can get a brand new RIVBE for only $199 (in store pick up only). But (again) Newegg has the Rampage V Ex for $465 and the only RIVBE I could find is listed as $999!


----------



## xarot

I wouldn't go X99 before BW-E chips hit the market. I sometimes swap the insides of my main PC between 4960X/RIVBE and 5960X/RVE and even the connectors on the mobos are in the same places. And I use PCIe SSD so it's just a swap and plug n play.

I couldn't even see much of a difference between the two systems, but RIVBE seems a bit more stable in my use.


----------



## mkempes82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am going to have to get a PCIeUSB 2.0 card to include all the USB 2.0 devices I have.
> As far as that screenshot goes, I can't see any indication what clock speed you are using. But if you hit 4.8 ghz with those temps at idle then you are doing pretty good. I have never really messed with my baseclock settings except for once and it did not work out well as with my current OC even with a BClock of 105 did not work. My system is in my sig and I am running the H240-X to cool my CPU. I usually just run OCCT as I have had a bad experience with prime95 on this chip. I could hit 4.4ghz for about 15 min before but one time I got a BSOD that was hard to recover from and since then I can't stay at 4.4 for more than a few minutes till I see the BSOD. I am 4.3 now and have not had any problems for just about a year now.


no issue win 10 64 pro on....


http://imgur.com/4BdJftK

























what kind of OCCT stability test do you use?linpack or not linpack test?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mkempes82*
> 
> no issue win 10 64 pro on....
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/4BdJftK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what kind of OCCT stability test do you use?linpack or not linpack test?


Yeah I pretty much get the same on Win 10 pro as in 8.1 but I have never used offset voltage. Apparently that is where the issue lies with windows 10.

As far as OCCT, I use the preset base test and I am not sure which one it is. So far it has not failed me in judging stability. IMHO I use something like that to get an idea on how stable my system is. But the real test is the actual gaming. If it fails stability in OCCT then it will not last in the real world.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I just realized something. This board actually has a 120db SNR and my Zx card only has 116db SNR, which is just the opposite of what I had thought. If that is the case then why does everything sound better through my sound card than through the onboard sound?


----------



## Mega Man

because you have more quality in a stand alone soundcard then anything built in, but also sound is subjective


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> because you have more quality in a stand alone soundcard then anything built in, but also sound is subjective


I am thinking of how to hook up a 7.1 surround system with a 7.1 receiver and it was recommended I use HDMI out to connect to the receiver.

Do you think that will have better sound?


----------



## Mega Man

from my limited understanding hdmi is an all digital standard, sound cards assist in analog signals

at that point it would depend on your receiver and its quality

your only constraints as i understand it, is if the receiver and if the source support said signal type / format


----------



## Laithan

Who needs a sound card when you've got a *lossless bit-stream GPU!*








*If anyone doesn't know about this, you'll be blown away!*

Check this out...









I can offer some feedback about something that SHOULD BE more well known but isn't. This information applies to general windows use, GAMES as well as MOVIES (BluRay) but I'm going to focus on GAMES. *IF you have a receiver* that supports 7.1 (lower formats work also) *and a GPU with HDMI out* then using a sound card is *100% obsolete*. I don't want to spawn any EAX debates, EAX tech is pretty much dead anyway).

We don't need to get complex for this one. Just basic well known facts:

*(1)* ANY time you have to *convert audio*, whether it be *Digital to Analog* or *Digital to Digital* (Think ENCODING, Dolby Digital LIVE and DTS Connect) you are going to *LOSE QUALITY*. It's just a fact.. Any sound card used that has speakers attached to it directly is most likely using a DAC (Digital to Analog converter) and codecs use compression and compression is lossy.

*(2)* The MOST any sound card offers with regard to real time encoding is 5.1... Dolby Digital LIVE and DTS is *limited to 5.1* and that means all of the latest HD formats, super high bit rates with 6.1 or 7.1 are *unavailable* to you...(some exceptions). Optical cables carry a maximum of 5.1 channels... it's impossible to get more than 5.1 over optical. *All sound cards*, onboard or not, take that lossless audio and process and/or convert or encode it.

*(3)* *The sound on your PC sometimes originates in 100% digital lossless format* and depending on the game maker's original format the source will either be super high quality or not. It is obviously going to depend on the quality of equipment used to record/produce the sound in the first place. Most people never get to hear the true original lossless quality because they simply don't have a way to play it.

What would you think if I said that you could get 100% lossless, full 7.1 discrete surround, DTS-HD anf Dolby TRUE HD as well as even ATMOS (if both the receiver and game supported it) for FREE, without spending ANY MONEY or taking ANY performance hit on your PC and all at the same time saving a PCI-e slot (and potentially allowing a GPU to run @ 16x vs 8x as a result) as long as you have a receiver and a GPU with HDMI?

It's really easy.. Let's assume we're talking about a prime example with outstanding sound effects and music. A game with some of the best audio quality we can hear.. something like Diablo III for example. Diablo III supports native 7.1 and the sound quality is superb! The ONLY way to be able to hear the true original LOSSLESS sound in true 7.1 surround is when using a LOSSLESS BIT-STREAM audio. There's also only one way to get a 100% lossless 7.1 bitstream audio digital connection without any encoding or conversion whatsoever. You have to use a GPU with HDMI to your receiver. There's only one minor catch, the receiver will be considered and additional monitor (but it's really not an issue for most).

Right-click open in a new tab for hi-res


I removed my PCI-e Fatality X-FI with the 64meg ram years ago and never looked back.









In case anyone asks, yes this works 100% in desktop, web browsing, mp3 audio, playing games, watching movies.. everything works.

*EDIT:* If you are currently using your HDMI connection for your monitor, don't worry this can still work for you. You just need to get a quality (emphasize that word, not expensive but quality) HDMI splitter. I would recommend the one that I use but it has some issues with long HDMI lengths forcing me to have to get an HDMI amplifier... just get an amplified splitter HDMI 2.0 compatible with at least 340Mhz support.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Who needs a sound card when you've got a *lossless bit-stream GPU!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *If anyone doesn't know about this, you'll be blown away!*
> 
> Check this out...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can offer some feedback about something that SHOULD BE more well known but isn't. This information applies to general windows use, GAMES as well as MOVIES (BluRay) but I'm going to focus on GAMES. *IF you have a receiver* that supports 7.1 (lower formats work also) *and a GPU with HDMI out* then using a sound card is *100% obsolete*. I don't want to spawn any EAX debates, EAX tech is pretty much dead anyway).
> 
> We don't need to get complex for this one. Just basic well known facts:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *(1)* ANY time you have to *convert audio*, whether it be *Digital to Analog* or *Digital to Digital* (Think ENCODING, Dolby Digital LIVE and DTS Connect) you are going to *LOSE QUALITY*. It's just a fact.. Any sound card used that has speakers attached to it directly is most likely using a DAC (Digital to Analog converter) and codecs use compression and compression is lossy.
> 
> *(2)* The MOST any sound card offers with regard to real time encoding is 5.1... Dolby Digital LIVE and DTS is *limited to 5.1* and that means all of the latest HD formats, super high bit rates with 6.1 or 7.1 are *unavailable* to you...(some exceptions). Optical cables carry a maximum of 5.1 channels... it's impossible to get more than 5.1 over optical. *All sound cards*, onboard or not, take that lossless audio and process and/or convert or encode it.
> 
> *(3)* *The sound on your PC sometimes originates in 100% digital lossless format* and depending on the game maker's original format the source will either be super high quality or not. It is obviously going to depend on the quality of equipment used to record/produce the sound in the first place. Most people never get to hear the true original lossless quality because they simply don't have a way to play it.
> 
> What would you think if I said that you could get 100% lossless, full 7.1 discrete surround, DTS-HD anf Dolby TRUE HD as well as even ATMOS (if both the receiver and game supported it) for FREE, without spending ANY MONEY or taking ANY performance hit on your PC and all at the same time saving a PCI-e slot (and potentially allowing a GPU to run @ 16x vs 8x as a result) as long as you have a receiver and a GPU with HDMI?
> 
> It's really easy.. Let's assume we're talking about a prime example with outstanding sound effects and music. A game with some of the best audio quality we can hear.. something like Diablo III for example. Diablo III supports native 7.1 and the sound quality is superb! The ONLY way to be able to hear the true original LOSSLESS sound in true 7.1 surround is when using a LOSSLESS BIT-STREAM audio. There's also only one way to get a 100% lossless 7.1 bitstream audio digital connection without any encoding or conversion whatsoever. You have to use a GPU with HDMI to your receiver. There's only one minor catch, the receiver will be considered and additional monitor (but it's really not an issue for most).
> 
> 
> 
> Right-click open in a new tab for hi-res
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I removed my PCI-e Fatality X-FI with the 64meg ram years ago and never looked back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case anyone asks, yes this works 100% in desktop, web browsing, mp3 audio, playing games, watching movies.. everything works.
> 
> *EDIT:* If you are currently using your HDMI connection for your monitor, don't worry this can still work for you. You just need to get a quality (emphasize that word, not expensive but quality) HDMI splitter. I would recommend the one that I use but it has some issues with long HDMI lengths forcing me to have to get an HDMI amplifier... just get an amplified splitter HDMI 2.0 compatible with at least 340Mhz support.


Thanks! Great to know info.
I have never heard it explained like that before. I have heard that HDMI audio is better but no one could ever explain why. Now all I need to do is fork out the money for the receiver "and" the speakers....lol.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks! Great to know info.
> I have never heard it explained like that before. I have heard that HDMI audio is better but no one could ever explain why. Now all I need to do is fork out the money for the receiver "and" the speakers....lol.


no necessarily a lot of money I almost bought a Denon AVR-X2000 7.1 Channel Integrated Network AV Receiver with AirPlay and still kicking my self for not buy it it!!







Could have bought it in box at goodwill for 49.95. by the time I found spec's on it (my phone was dead) someone had already bought it!!

2nd hand stores and pawn shops are a great place to find high end quality gear like this for low price!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> no necessarily a lot of money I almost bought a Denon AVR-X2000 7.1 Channel Integrated Network AV Receiver with AirPlay and still kicking my self for not buy it it!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have bought it in box at goodwill for 49.95. by the time I found spec's on it (my phone was dead) someone had already bought it!!
> 
> 2nd hand stores and pawn shops are a great place to find high end quality gear like this for low price!!


That would be awesome. I can never find anything like that at the local goodwill/salvation army stores. At best I may find some mid 80's to the early 90's PC stuff and TV's.....
I don't trust pawn shops. I think every time I have been in one they charge exorbitant prices...


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Who needs a sound card when you've got a *lossless bit-stream GPU!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *If anyone doesn't know about this, you'll be blown away!*
> 
> Check this out...


Have you wrote this entirely yourself?

That's quite long and colored. Using receiver is of course AWESOME. But, HDMI isn't the best way to get the sound into it. It's quite flawed standard, or at least it was in first iteration, and length of cables and theirs shielding might cause some problems. DVI-D was screwed to the card for a reason. The main problem is there isn't a free widely used standard for data transfer by optical wires. The only existing supported standard is our old toslink which works flawlessly for stereo, but considering of which it could be able with current HW... Especially when it would transmit packets with timing information.
Well, why use cheap nylon/glass fiber cables when we have expensive shielded cooper wires which needs gold plating for proper contact.

It's not necessary blown away. That depends on how much were your speakers finetuned. Well finetuned X-530 can do a lot. (These are the speakers that can receive German radio when they are set to zero volume. And they NEED proper tuning because they are overbassed with no mids. But perfectly tuned with PROPER analog input, they are very nice.) Then of course, you have the other part of spectrum with high end HiFi speakers. (And then you go into a lot of trouble because you need correct speakers for your room size, and distance you want to use them. When you are not owning whole house, your neighborhoods are also a consideration.)

Well, a reasonable receiver and reasonable speakers are only about half more expensive than this board...

Edit:
Actually originally I wanted to write just one warning. Plugging HDMI audio directly into your TV, or LCD is BAD idea. I use optical link from PS3 connected to my sound card, which is connected to analog speakers for a reason.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Have you wrote this entirely yourself?
> 
> That's quite long and colored. Using receiver is of course AWESOME. But, HDMI isn't the best way to get the sound into it. It's quite flawed standard, or at least it was in first iteration, and length of cables and theirs shielding might cause some problems. DVI-D was screwed to the card for a reason. The main problem is there isn't a free widely used standard for data transfer by optical wires. The only existing supported standard is our old toslink which works flawlessly for stereo, but considering of which it could be able with current HW... Especially when it would transmit packets with timing information.
> Well, why use cheap nylon/glass fiber cables when we have expensive shielded cooper wires which needs gold plating for proper contact.
> 
> It's not necessary blown away. That depends on how much were your speakers finetuned. Well finetuned X-530 can do a lot. (These are the speakers that can receive German radio when they are set to zero volume. And they NEED proper tuning because they are overbassed with no mids. But perfectly tuned with PROPER analog input, they are very nice.) Then of course, you have the other part of spectrum with high end HiFi speakers. (And then you go into a lot of trouble because you need correct speakers for your room size, and distance you want to use them. When you are not owning whole house, your neighborhoods are also a consideration.)
> 
> Well, a reasonable receiver and reasonable speakers are only about half more expensive than this board...
> 
> Edit:
> Actually originally I wanted to write just one warning. Plugging HDMI audio directly into your TV, or LCD is BAD idea. I use optical link from PS3 connected to my sound card, which is connected to analog speakers for a reason.


That is all well and good but Toslink or "optical" does not support 7.1 surround. So in this instance HDMI is the obvious choice.


----------



## Mega Man

There's a great standard that could and should get rid of all the media wires.

Cat*, where "*" is 5 6 7 ect. Always faster it seems then anything else....


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Have you wrote this entirely yourself?


Yup.. nothing copy/pasted just me n my spacin'. I'm a colorful person I guess









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There's a great standard that could and should get rid of all the media wires.
> 
> Cat*, where "*" is 5 6 7 ect. Always faster it seems then anything else....


Isn't it amazing to think that we have all this "technology" yet we still live in an age where almost everything is connected via a physical wire. All that mess under the desk and behind the computer... still.. that "technology" hasn't changed much







.. We don't seem all that advanced now anymore do we? I am sure there will be a time when we will be like "remember when we used to have to use wires to connect stuff?







"

As far as utilizing network bandwidth for multiple functions it's already been done (think VTC) but I suspect there were too many patent trolls and those who wanted to create their own standard.. we know the drill. Unfortunately network with compression might be possible but as far as pure bandwdith NETWORK speed has been left in the dark with regard to throughput. 1Gbps is your typical LAN connection these days and of course we've now got 10Gbps over copper. Even at 10Gbps it's almost HALF the bandwidth of HDMI 2.0 which has *18Gpbs*.

New display port 1.4 = 32.4Gbps


----------



## Mega Man

ok, then fiber



pc networking so far, has ALWAYS surpassed any for of "special" proprietary display cable afaik

and the cables are cheap then too ( small length ie 6-10 feet )

talking same gen top teir


----------



## GenesisDM

Hey everyone I have a question for all you IV Black Edition owners, something I can never decide myself due to lack of help from google









We all know that X79 is now dead (End of life) ... but I still want one, I never saw any interest in X99 but due to money issues could never start my build with my dream motherboard.
Now someone Is willing to sell me there IV black edition for about £300, I see that as reasonable as everywhere else I look wants over £400 for it and in worse condition to. While I am so tempted to accept his offer I am torn, the Rampage VIII Formula calls to me with its led lighting and overall looks.
It would be used 90% of the time for gaming at 1440p, all these new features like USB 3.1 & type C, M.2 slot and other "new" features are not useful to me as I have no need to use them.

This would be my second build my first being the 1366 Rampage III Black edition, so do I follow my 3 year desire and take the black or push that all aside and be a Z170 owner ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> Hey everyone I have a question for all you IV Black Edition owners, something I can never decide myself due to lack of help from google
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We all know that X79 is now dead (End of life) ... but I still want one, I never saw any interest in X99 but due to money issues could never start my build with my dream motherboard.
> Now someone Is willing to sell me there IV black edition for about £300, I see that as reasonable as everywhere else I look wants over £400 for it and in worse condition to. While I am so tempted to accept his offer I am torn, the Rampage VIII Formula calls to me with its led lighting and overall looks.
> It would be used 90% of the time for gaming at 1440p, all these new features like USB 3.1 & type C, M.2 slot and other "new" features are not useful to me as I have no need to use them.
> 
> This would be my second build my first being the 1366 Rampage III Black edition, so do I follow my 3 year desire and take the black or push that all aside and be a Z170 owner ?


The Rampage IV is a great MB and extremely versatile. If the board is in good condition it is well worth the 300 euros, Does that include CPU and RAM? If it does then I would jump on that deal if I were you. The only issue is the warranty may not usable for much longer after you purchase it. That being said you still might want to think about x99, that is unless you greatly prefer the Rampage V (which is an awesome board). Everything in the 2011 v3 line up is pretty much around the same cost as the older non v3 2011. You can get 16gb of DDR3 now for as low as $60 if you look and DDR4 is at best a few bucks more, that would be even less in euros. I just Googled and found a few ASUS X99-A MBs for less than $200 on B&H, other sites are not that much more. It is all up to you though.......


----------



## GenesisDM

Thanks for the advice I have been stuck trying to choose for weeks on this board :O

Here are a few pictures of the condition of the board, the guy hasn't even removed the plastic from the I/o shroud, the guy says the board is not even a year old since he bought it new but It does indeed seam well looked after.
Sadly no CPU or RAM is included but I can find them cheap enough, just yesterday nabbed myself a AX1200I for under £100


----------



## Madmaxneo

Well you could probably get a better deal on a newer X99 set up then if you have to purchase everything else.


----------



## GenesisDM

I had a look around for X99 boards but I am not finding anything that I really like aesthetically, not unless I am willing to pay over £300-£400 or wait and Pre-order.
The only board I can find that would fit my water cooling design would be the MSI X99A SLI Krait Edition but sadly it is not out yet and I kind of need a PC asap as I am currently using a Sony Viao AW serries laptop which is on its last legs.
I also had a look at the Asus boards but I have no interest in black&red boards anymore, the X99 Pro is nice but it is to much white. I know I am being stupidly picky but having planned my build for over 6 months I don't want to go changing it now if I can help it.

The plan was to have the following
Corsair 900D White motherboard tray to make the board stand out (not easy to do but I have seen it done)
Black/grey motherboard
white/silver memory
White back plates on my graphics cards
Apogee HD Gold 24K (never used)

All of it water cooled, colored as close as possible to the Rampage III Extreme BE red north bridge heat-sink (maybe darker we will see)


----------



## funsoul

Sounds like a cool-looking build!

What're you planning to use the pc for when it's done? Since you're looking at x79/x99, guessing a gamer build with a few vga cards?

No need to spend so much on a board unless you're going to do benchmarking...it's a big premium for aesthetics.


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funsoul*
> 
> Sounds like a cool-looking build!
> 
> What're you planning to use the pc for when it's done? Since you're looking at x79/x99, guessing a gamer build with a few vga cards?
> 
> No need to spend so much on a board unless you're going to do benchmarking...it's a big premium for aesthetics.


It's main purpose will be gaming at 1440p and it will be my first water cooled build so if all goes well pics will be posted ^^
I currently have one GALAX GeForce GTX 970 OC Silent 'Infinity Black Edition' that I managed to get for under £200 (RRP £299) :O will probably get a second one until the GTX 1080 is released.

While I said this rig would be mostly for gaming how can I not see how far I can push the system ?
I do intend to overclock this thing as best as I can and see how I match up in benchmarks as well as some video editing but not much.


----------



## xarot

Which CPU are you going to use? I would not get an 39xx series processor anymore, since NVIDIA+PCIe 3.0 don't work without manual patch on those. 4930K would be the best option, but those don't go for very cheap (I just purchased one for my second rig for 275 € off a local forum). On the other hand, the 39xx processors are still very capable processors and overclock high.

Also, on RIVEBE and 39xx processors you'll have to manually tune a few settings so that you don't get throttling.


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Which CPU are you going to use? I would not get an 39xx series processor anymore, since NVIDIA+PCIe 3.0 don't work without manual patch on those. 4930K would be the best option, but those don't go for very cheap (I just purchased one for my second rig for 275 € off a local forum). On the other hand, the 39xx processors are still very capable processors and overclock high.
> 
> Also, on RIVEBE and 39xx processors you'll have to manually tune a few settings so that you don't get throttling.


I can get a 4930K for about £250 - £270 If I look around and I actually missed out on a 4960X that sold for £350 a few days ago that I am still kicking myself over :O
At best I could get a 4960X for under £600 if I really wanted one but with that I would not be upgrading for a long time.


----------



## xarot

Good choice. The 4960X is not really any faster chip than the 4930K but of course if the 'X' makes you happy like me then you'll go for it.









Maybe at around Broadwell-E release people start selling their old chips and at a little cheaper.


----------



## Mega Man

i doubt it,


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Good choice. The 4960X is not really any faster chip than the 4930K but of course if the 'X' makes you happy like me then you'll go for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe at around Broadwell-E release people start selling their old chips and at a little cheaper.


Well I think I have done well so far when it comes to acquiring parts, like in my previous posts I got a Corsair AX2100i for under £100 just because the seller said it had mild coil whine. A GTX 970 4GB for user £200 because I am not paying £400-£500 for a 980 when the 1080 is getting closer.
If someone does end up parting with there 4960X for a decent price I am going to be all over it. In the end besides benchmark numbers am I really gimping myself by wanting the X79 over X99 or even the Z170 ? I really don't think so when it comes to gaiming.

One question I would ask though is what is a good 1440P monitor ? I did have my heart set on a Asus PG279Q but with all those light bleeding problems it can't say I want it as much. I know people always say go with TN panels for the low input lag of 1ms but really anything under 10ms is fine right ?


----------



## AstralAnimal

It's been a while since I've last visited this thread. Two years on and my RIVBE is still running very well.
I'm thinking of upgrading my RAM. I currently have these running at 1866MHz::
http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-19200cl10q-32gbzhd
I think I need something faster.
What is the Best RAM for the RIVBE at the moment to match my 4930K ?
Help is always appreciated.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> It's been a while since I've last visited this thread. Two years on and my RIVEBE is still running very well.
> I'm thinking of upgrading my RAM. I currently have these running at 1866MHz::
> http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-19200cl10q-32gbzhd
> I think I need something faster.
> What is the Best RAM for the RIVE at the moment to match my 4930K ?
> Help is always appreciated.


Get them up to 2133MHz with stock timings, then you did good. No need to buy new ram.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Hey TooShort.
The 2133MHz parameter with all timing in Auto locked my system and I had to reset CMOS.
1866MHz runs well with 9-9-9-24-2 timings.
So which timings should I input to run it at 2133MHz?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

10-12-12-31-2N , set voltage to 1.675v. Not sure if you have Samsung or Hynix chips for your ram, but using the memory preset in your bios of either or may help. Make sure to set the main timings correctly after setting preset.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Ok I'll give it a try. Meanwhile:


----------



## GenesisDM

I am sure everyone know what this is right ?
Well this is the reason I really don't want to get X99 and instead buy the Rampage IV Black Edition, I'v had one of these for years and never got a chance to use it. The CPU block has been in its box all this time number #256 and if I buy X99 It will never get used.

Now according to Game-debate.com the I7 4960X is actually a bottleneck when it comes to playing the whitcher 3







can anyone confirm if this is true or is this an over exaggeration ?
I can't see how the game could demand so much processing power


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure everyone know what this is right ?
> Well this is the reason I really don't want to get X99 and instead buy the Rampage IV Black Edition, I'v had one of these for years and never got a chance to use it. The CPU block has been in its box all this time number #256 and if I buy X99 It will never get used.
> 
> Now according to Game-debate.com the I7 4960X is actually a bottleneck when it comes to playing the whitcher 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can anyone confirm if this is true or is this an over exaggeration ?
> I can't see how the game could demand so much processing power


Why wouldn't that fit on a X99 board? At most you would need to get an adapter.

But OTOH do the 2011 and the 20111 v3 share the same mounting system?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralAnimal*
> 
> Hey TooShort.
> The 2133MHz parameter with all timing in Auto locked my system and I had to reset CMOS.
> 1866MHz runs well with 9-9-9-24-2 timings.
> So which timings should I input to run it at 2133MHz?


By auto do you mean XMP?


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Why wouldn't that fit on a X99 board? At most you would need to get an adapter.
> 
> But OTOH do the 2011 and the 20111 v3 share the same mounting system?


I have looked on Google if 2011 fits on 2011-v3 but I keep getting mixed answers, some people claim hey do while others had tried x79 coolers and had no luck.
As for the Apogee HD I can't find any information about it being used on a X99 board unless I am searching for the wrong thing.


----------



## Mega Man

Old block. Won't have been used by most (hate you Btw tried to buy one after I got into water cooling....still don't have it)

2011 and 2011-3 is same cooler mounts I have been told


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Old block. Won't have been used by most (hate you Btw tried to buy one after I got into water cooling....still don't have it)
> 
> 2011 and 2011-3 is same cooler mounts I have been told


Old block but beautiful in person even Linus/NCIX review didn't do it justice I must say. Even if the block does fit on X99 boards am I really getting any real gain outside of benchmarking ?
After spending time on Game-debate.com the 4960X seams to be just as good or better than x99 in some instances, can't say much for Broadwell-E but I depending when It comes out I don't have now long this crappy Laptop will last.


----------



## Mega Man

Personal preference. Imo Sandy bridge CPUs work fine for gaming....


----------



## GenesisDM

If we are talking gaming Intel have not really released anything noteworthy ever since AMD died of, DRR4 and more cores are fine or things like editing and the like but not gaming.. well not yet anyway.
The IV Black Edition only came out in November 2013 or so, not even three years old yet people are already treating it like a dead platform. Considering I may be able to get 2x8gb Corsair Dominator 2133mhz DDR3 for under £100 I may indeed stick with my gut feeling and get X79. If I wait longer I won't be interested until Asus bring out the Rampage V Black Edition (If they ever do)


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Hey guys, look what I just bought for $90 CAD shipped:

*http://www.ebay.com/itm/EK-FB-Kit-Asus-R4BE-Rampage-IV-Black-Ed-Motherboard-Waterblock-Kit-Nickel-Acetal-/401035332592?hash=item5d5f918bf0:g:y8kAAOSwv-NWXtot*

Guy dropped the price by $85 usd yesterday. Just checked the link for some reason that's in my favorites, and to my surprise, the way cheaper price.

Hurry, two left!


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Hey guys, look what I just bought for $90 CAD shipped:
> 
> *http://www.ebay.com/itm/EK-FB-Kit-Asus-R4BE-Rampage-IV-Black-Ed-Motherboard-Waterblock-Kit-Nickel-Acetal-/401035332592?hash=item5d5f918bf0:g:y8kAAOSwv-NWXtot*
> 
> Guy dropped the price by $85 usd yesterday. Just checked the link for some reason that's in my favorites, and to my surprise, the way cheaper price.
> 
> Hurry, two left!


Nice find MrTOOSHORT









looking at that I'm just more and more tempted to buy X79 and just forget X99 all together. Does anyone know if there is a waterblock for the chipset only that does not require me to remove the LED Asus logo bellow the CPU ?


----------



## GenesisDM

Just had a quick look and I found this that has caught my eye


http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=173_254_257_263&products_id=3508

I have seen a picture showing the chipset and CPU block separated so I am wondering if anyone knows if this can be used with a different CPU waterblock ?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> If we are talking gaming Intel have not really released anything noteworthy ever since AMD died of, DRR4 and more cores are fine or things like editing and the like but not gaming.. well not yet anyway.
> The IV Black Edition only came out in November 2013 or so, not even three years old yet people are already treating it like a dead platform. Considering I may be able to get 2x8gb Corsair Dominator 2133mhz DDR3 for under £100 I may indeed stick with my gut feeling and get X79. If I wait longer I won't be interested until Asus bring out the Rampage V Black Edition (If they ever do)


Doubt it.. they just released "STRIX" motherboards that look very similar to a BE...

X79 is far from dead and IMHO just as good as X99.. unless you feel better having DDR4 memory that you don't need....


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Doubt it.. they just released "STRIX" motherboards that look very similar to a BE...
> 
> X79 is far from dead and IMHO just as good as X99.. unless you feel better having DDR4 memory that you don't need....


I saw the STRIX motherboards and while they look good with the LED's I am not sold on them at all. with LED keyboards and mice you don't need it in your case to.. it's just to much.

I don't see DDR3 2133mhz being slow / obsolete anytime soon, while DDR4 is not effected by latency as much as DDR3 I still see no reason to even have DDR4 anytime soon.

Just want to thank everyone here, after listening to everyone I'm going to buy the Iv Black Edition, hopefully when my build is complete I will upload the finished product. Just hope it turns out ok as this will be my first time doing a custom loop.


----------



## AstralAnimal

Thanx people. I'm running my 32GB of G.Skill at 2133MHz at 1.675 Volts in 10-12-12-31-2 timings and it's stable and gaming Shadow of Mordor very well. Thank you for your tips. Much appreciated.
Love the x79-e best board I've owned so far. The hexa i7 4930K CPU does a great job. Very son the Geforce GTX 1080 graphic cards will be coming out.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Hey guys, look what I just bought for $90 CAD shipped:
> 
> *http://www.ebay.com/itm/EK-FB-Kit-Asus-R4BE-Rampage-IV-Black-Ed-Motherboard-Waterblock-Kit-Nickel-Acetal-/401035332592?hash=item5d5f918bf0:g:y8kAAOSwv-NWXtot*
> 
> Guy dropped the price by $85 usd yesterday. Just checked the link for some reason that's in my favorites, and to my surprise, the way cheaper price.
> 
> Hurry, two left!


I didn't know they made a nickel acetal version. Does this one perform any better/worse than the standard copper version?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I didn't know they made a nickel acetal version. Does this one perform any better/worse than the standard copper version?


Same performance. Look's like the rest of the motherboard blocks have been sold. I'll have to order up some fittings that will probably cost more than the blocks.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Same performance. Look's like the rest of the motherboard blocks have been sold. I'll have to order up some fittings that will probably cost more than the blocks.


I take it you wanted the nickel one for looks? I noticed they were being sold for approximately $58. Shipping must have been high coming from the UK.

You can get a copper one on performancepcs for about $90 with shipping.


----------



## xarot

In case anyone is still wondering about NVME on RIVE BE, this is on my Intel 750 PCIe SSD. There's even a separate window for NVME drive. Works great.

BIOS 0701.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> In case anyone is still wondering about NVME on RIVE BE, this is on my Intel 750 PCIe SSD. There's even a separate window for NVME drive. Works great.
> 
> BIOS 0701.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is awesome! Thanks for the update.


----------



## Shadowarez

Wait we can use the 750 intel and boot from it! Damn here i thought my board would have to be retired and go with x99 or better. Ill check this out waiting in a 800gb 750 from ncix but they still charging $1299 for 800gb should save lil more get the 1.6Tb on at that price.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Wait we can use the 750 intel and boot from it! Damn here i thought my board would have to be retired and go with x99 or better. Ill check this out waiting in a 800gb 750 from ncix but they still charging $1299 for 800gb should save lil more get the 1.6Tb on at that price.


Yes I have a 400Gb one I am using to boot and it is very fast!!


----------



## Amph

there is a way in this modo or any other, to force a low % start on an additional fan? it seems that the fan run at full spin when you press the on button to power on your system and then it reduce when the bios screen appear

i need that it start always at low speed even before the bios, because i'm using a single header for two monster fan that consume 0.55A each, and i would damage it if they run at full speed


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amph*
> 
> there is a way in this modo or any other, to force a low % start on an additional fan? it seems that the fan run at full spin when you press the on button to power on your system and then it reduce when the bios screen appear
> 
> i need that it start always at low speed even before the bios, because i'm using a single header for two monster fan that consume 0.55A each, and i would damage it if they run at full speed


I would never put those fans on a motherboard you are asking for trouble and more that damaging the fan header...


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amph*
> 
> there is a way in this modo or any other, to force a low % start on an additional fan? it seems that the fan run at full spin when you press the on button to power on your system and then it reduce when the bios screen appear
> 
> i need that it start always at low speed even before the bios, because i'm using a single header for two monster fan that consume 0.55A each, and i would damage it if they run at full speed


Fans typically draws MUCH more power at start. Get some fan regulation, or plug them into PSU, if it has fan headers and can support high power fans.


----------



## Laithan

I've been trying to tweak for a while now and I know I'm not nearly finished but I wanted to share the performance I've got so far. This board is amazing when you start to tweak it.



Spoiler: Lots of benchies, many quite impressive





*Right-click and open in new tab for hi-res pics*


























I assume others are getting similar results?


----------



## GenesisDM

Hey again black edition owners ^^ it has been some weeks when I was last here but finally I now have a Rampage IV black edition of my own.
Sadly since no one seams to be willing to sell there boards I unfortunately ended up purchasing it from a Amazon seller in the USA. the seller was amazing to accommodate me and in the end I only ended up paying £340 with shipping.
As always UK customs slapped it with an extra £92 import charge but despite all that It was still cheaper than buying it on Ebay or Amazon.co.uk (over £1000)

Now here is my problem









I'm lucky as it is to have the motherboard now and the seller included everything even the promo game code unused...but can't be used as it expired in 2015 XD
The problem is the seller is sadly a smoker or his family is and this has left some rather horrible build up on some places, Compressed air doesn't work neither does a q-tip with isopropyl alcohol.

After looking online I keep finding that the best way is to give the entire board an alcohol bath and clean the dirty parts with a soft tooth brush, I have a lot of isopropyl alcohol which is 99.9% and a unused tray.
Does anyone have any experience with this kind of thing or if not can anyone give me any advice on how i should remove all the gunk from the board ?

Oh one last thing is due to the age of the board it really does wreck of cigarette smoke and any way to remove that would be much appreciated









Sooner I get this done the quicker I can stress test my 4960X ES chip to make sure it is not crap.


----------



## Mega Man

Please make sure to remove the battery.


----------



## GenesisDM

hehe I don't know how many people have forgotten that but the battery was the first thing I knew had to be removed.

So I take it giving it a bath is safe as long as it drys properly ?
Stupid question but does isopropyl alcohol react badly with plastic at all ( some people said it eat away at it :S) thankfully the heatsinks are all metal


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> hehe I don't know how many people have forgotten that but the battery was the first thing I knew had to be removed.
> 
> So I take it giving it a bath is safe as long as it drys properly ?
> Stupid question but does isopropyl alcohol react badly with plastic at all ( some people said it eat away at it :S) thankfully the heatsinks are all metal


I would buy a couple of cans of contact cleaner as this is made to clean boards!! Like the cdc qd contact cleaner


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I would buy a couple of cans of contact cleaner as this is made to clean boards!! Like the cdc qd contact cleaner


contact cleaner was my second option if a bath was to risky, if it removes the smell and gunk from the board then I will have to buy some from somewhere. is there a better item to use to scrub / remove hard on gunk besides a toothbrush ?
Considering how hard it is to even get this board I would rather not damage it if possible.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> contact cleaner was my second option if a bath was to risky, if it removes the smell and gunk from the board then I will have to buy some from somewhere. is there a better item to use to scrub / remove hard on gunk besides a toothbrush ?
> Considering how hard it is to even get this board I would rather not damage it if possible.


It sprays under pressure so it will clean it fir you!!!


----------



## Mega Man

you can damage the SN number and void your warranty ( if there is one )

also most consumer contact cleaner is CRAP ! i only use it because i get contractor only stuff, the stuff consumers get ( IN THE US ) leaves a oily residue and does not work for crap.

IF you can find it ( which i doubt ) there is an epic solvent called Virginia 10 but afaik it is EOL and i have one of the last cans of it in my garage


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can damage the SN number and void your warranty ( if there is one )
> 
> also most consumer contact cleaner is CRAP ! i only use it because i get contractor only stuff, the stuff consumers get ( IN THE US ) leaves a oily residue and does not work for crap.
> 
> IF you can find it ( which i doubt ) there is an epic solvent called Virginia 10 but afaik it is EOL and i have one of the last cans of it in my garage


CDC QD Contact Cleanrer is not crap and we use this at work to clean a lot hard things from circuit boards that tobacco build up.. I am on a drilling rig so you can imagine the things that get on the boards we need to clean up!!!

Would not recommend anything that was not good!!! Be sure of this and you should know this about me Mega!! Alcohol is not as good to use!!


----------



## Mega Man

I assume you mean crc? Crc brand is junk. Ew.
Nu-Calgon contact cleaner


----------



## xarot

Maybe try this? Well, not recommended.


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Maybe try this? Well, not recommended.


I am pretty sure I saw a YouTube video of someone doing just that, sure with a crappy old MB I would try it but not my black edition :O
Also I am going to have a look for some top grade contact cleaner in my local tradesman store, see if I can't get them to show me if it does the job or is a rubbish brand. If It cleans the board great ... still gotta remove that sell of cigarettes though. As a non-smoker the smell is repulsive ..yet I want to love my purchase :'(


----------



## GenesisDM

Well it took all day but in the end I was left with no choice but to give my motherboard a bath. I removed all the heatsinks along with the battery and any thermal paste then poured 99.9% isopropyl alcohol all over the board, the good news it the cigarette smell is all gone.

the amount of gunk I removed with just a Q-tip was grows but from the looks of it everything is clean, just leaving it to dry now for 24 hours and it should be in working order. I also have to buy some thermal pads to replace the ones under the top heatsink and the underside of the board ( the pads were stained yellow)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> Well it took all day but in the end I was left with no choice but to give my motherboard a bath. I removed all the heatsinks along with the battery and any thermal paste then poured 99.9% isopropyl alcohol all over the board, the good news it the cigarette smell is all gone.
> 
> the amount of gunk I removed with just a Q-tip was grows but from the looks of it everything is clean, just leaving it to dry now for 24 hours and it should be in working order. I also have to buy some thermal pads to replace the ones under the top heatsink and the underside of the board ( the pads were stained yellow)


I hope I do not ever purchase something from whomever you got that board from.

Did he ever indicate how much of a smoker he was?


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I hope I do not ever purchase something from whomever you got that board from.
> 
> Did he ever indicate how much of a smoker he was?


Nope you wouldn't think it is something important to mention to someone. Sadly while I said before the smell has gone it has in fact returned but not as strong.
when my thermal pads arrive I will give this board one more bath and go over it with a small paint brush and toothbrush to make sure I missed nothing. To really show how bad the smoking was the back I/O plate has dark brown patches :O


----------



## GenesisDM

Just a few pictures of the motherboard and the thermal pads, I hope you can see how bad they look although the board always looked clean just smelled bad and like I said before q-tip + alcohol = yellow stuff removed


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> Nope you wouldn't think it is something important to mention to someone. Sadly while I said before the smell has gone it has in fact returned but not as strong.
> when my thermal pads arrive I will give this board one more bath and go over it with a small paint brush and toothbrush to make sure I missed nothing. To really show how bad the smoking was the back I/O plate has dark brown patches :O


Good luck in getting that smell out.


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Good luck in getting that smell out.


Already working on it -.-

I managed to remove the same kind of smell from a GameCube RGB scart cable, so hopefully I can do the same with the motherboard. Even if I can't right it should slowly fade over time ..or just spray lavender on it XD


----------



## GenesisDM

Well It has been nearly a week since my last post and I have to say it has been a busy week indeed.

Firstly after giving my motherboard a bath and a fine clean around the CPU socket and caps, the smell of a smokers home is no more. This is including the manual that was the main smelly culprit that has also lost its smell thanks to a good search ^^

This morning I was happy to get my I7 4960X ES (QF7Z) yes it was not cheap at just under £340 and yes I know Intel owns all non retail chips but I am not paying over £500 for retail. One thing I did not know was that the black edition is the only X79 board I have seen that has the triangle in the top right :S
With 99% of my equipment I decided to give it all a test to see if it will post and get me into the BIOS screen. due to not having a compatible CPU cooler I took apart a stock intel 1150 cooler and rested the fan on top of the heatsink, if it did not work I would be in trouble.

Test setup on motherboard box XD

Rampage IV Black edition (freshly cleaned with new thermal strips applied)
I7 4960X ES @ 3.6GHz
Intel 1150 stock cooler
4GB of ADATA 1866mhz crappy ram
GTX 970
Corsair 1200W PSU (Coil whine)
NO HDD









All lights were on and so I pressed the start button and ....... nothing







TV screen showed nothing I was gutted beyond words to be honest. At that moment I thought I had completely screwed up my board by giving it a bath or the thermal pads I replaced were to thick or something, anything to explain why i saw nothing.
Then like an idiot noticed the HDMI cable was not all the way in -.- Tried it one more time and ..... BOOM Asus logo and right into the BIOS screen ^^
CPU temp was at 61c not to bad giving my Jerry-rigged 1150 cooler on it,

Right now I am waiting on a Swiftech H240 X since I need to be saving up for a decent case... would love to buy a Case labs case but not paying the stupid import charges, right now I may settle on a Corsair 900D and once I have that I will start getting my proper water loops made.


----------



## Zimzoid

Hi all, I can get a used 4960X for $150NZD which is a great deal should i grab it? Nothing much wrong with my 4930k only that its a poor ocer


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zimzoid*
> 
> Hi all, I can get a used 4960X for $150NZD which is a great deal should i grab it? Nothing much wrong with my 4930k only that its a poor ocer


$150 isn't to bad at all since that is just over £73 here in the UK. I ended up paying just over £300 for my 4960X which is an ES








considering the prices people are selling these for I would take it if that is the cheapest you can find. Here in the UK the best I can find is over £400 = $814NZD :O


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am having issues and need some help, please read on.
I started getting slowly increasing temps so I decided to re-apply the TIM.
I used the thermal grizzly stuff.

After finishing everything up and booting it up I ran into some problems. First thing is it went into a constant reboot cycle with no other indication of errors. I did notice the last number to flash on the readout was a 14 and that has something to do with "Pre-memory CPU initialization". I turned off the PC and redid the TIM and even checked to make sure none of the CPU pins were bent. I eventually went in and did a F5 reset to my bios settings. After many different attempts the PC finally booted into windows but only after going through about 5 auto restarts. After that I decided to go and change all my OC settings back and once in there I had forgotten what needed changing so I was going to head in here an ask what settings I needed to change again. Unfortunately it went through that constant reboot cycle and would not load into windows. After shutting it down a few times it finally booted into windows. I am on XMP though and my temps seem about the same as when I was OCing (before my temps started slowly increasing), which may or may not be be a testament to my Swiftech AIO.

So my system is running but every time I restart it I have to deal with the constant cycle of it telling me OC has failed and then after going into the BIOS and F5ing it then turning XMP back on and then rebooting itself like 5 or 6 times before it finally starts up.

Does anyone think it could be the CPU or the MB? I have recently noticed one of my MB fan connections does not work correctly as it does not report or affect the fan speed connected to it (I tried several fans and none work correctly in that MB fan connection).

Any help is appreciated.


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am having issues and need some help, please read on.
> I started getting slowly increasing temps so I decided to re-apply the TIM.
> I used the thermal grizzly stuff.
> 
> After finishing everything up and booting it up I ran into some problems. First thing is it went into a constant reboot cycle with no other indication of errors. I did notice the last number to flash on the readout was a 14 and that has something to do with "Pre-memory CPU initialization". I turned off the PC and redid the TIM and even checked to make sure none of the CPU pins were bent. I eventually went in and did a F5 reset to my bios settings. After many different attempts the PC finally booted into windows but only after going through about 5 auto restarts. After that I decided to go and change all my OC settings back and once in there I had forgotten what needed changing so I was going to head in here an ask what settings I needed to change again. Unfortunately it went through that constant reboot cycle and would not load into windows. After shutting it down a few times it finally booted into windows. I am on XMP though and my temps seem about the same as when I was OCing (before my temps started slowly increasing), which may or may not be be a testament to my Swiftech AIO.
> 
> So my system is running but every time I restart it I have to deal with the constant cycle of it telling me OC has failed and then after going into the BIOS and F5ing it then turning XMP back on and then rebooting itself like 5 or 6 times before it finally starts up.
> 
> Does anyone think it could be the CPU or the MB? I have recently noticed one of my MB fan connections does not work correctly as it does not report or affect the fan speed connected to it (I tried several fans and none work correctly in that MB fan connection).
> 
> Any help is appreciated.


I had a look around for other people who have had "Pre-memory CPU initialization is started" as the last code before a fail/restart. Considering what the different responses were I would suggest you do the following to cover everything., motherboard first ^^
1. Clear CMOS, boot with no overclock in case that is the problem
2. Check that all power connectors are properly inserted into the motherboard, especially the CPU
3. Check you RAM sticks one at a time in case one maybe bad/ motherboard slot may be dead
4. make sure no TIM got between any pin or on the underside of your CPU

IF all of that fails try a different CPU ...if it works it is most likely your CPU if not...your MB may be the problem


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> I had a look around for other people who have had "Pre-memory CPU initialization is started" as the last code before a fail/restart. Considering what the different responses were I would suggest you do the following to cover everything., motherboard first ^^
> 1. Clear CMOS, boot with no overclock in case that is the problem
> 2. Check that all power connectors are properly inserted into the motherboard, especially the CPU
> 3. Check you RAM sticks one at a time in case one maybe bad/ motherboard slot may be dead
> 4. make sure no TIM got between any pin or on the underside of your CPU
> 
> IF all of that fails try a different CPU ...if it works it is most likely your CPU if not...your MB may be the problem


Yeah it would not start with XMP enabled this morning. I turned off all OC and left it at stock defaults and it started fine.
One of the first things I did was check all my pins and connections. I may do that all again here in a few moments but this time I will pull everything out and reseat all the connections and the RAM. The last time something like this happened with my XMP not working correctly one of the MB CPU pins was bent so I also checked and double checked those.

I have a Xeon 2670 that I purchase as a temp replacement on the CPU. I may put that in and see how it goes.
I also recently noticed that one of my MB fan pin headers is faulty. It may be a sign that the MB is dying, not sure. I did have an RMA for this MB on that but was not willing to be without the use of my baby for a few weeks.


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah it would not start with XMP enabled this morning. I turned off all OC and left it at stock defaults and it started fine.
> One of the first things I did was check all my pins and connections. I may do that all again here in a few moments but this time I will pull everything out and reseat all the connections and the RAM. The last time something like this happened with my XMP not working correctly one of the MB CPU pins was bent so I also checked and double checked those.
> 
> I have a Xeon 2670 that I purchase as a temp replacement on the CPU. I may put that in and see how it goes.
> I also recently noticed that one of my MB fan pin headers is faulty. It may be a sign that the MB is dying, not sure. I did have an RMA for this MB on that but was not willing to be without the use of my baby for a few weeks.


I have heard of problems with XMP and ways to fix it, not to sure but google could help. If everything works without XMP lets hope that is the only problem and that it is fixable ^^

In regards to a faulty fan header could it be fixed ? not sure if you could re-solder it in hopes that fixes the problem.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Well I reseated everything and rechecked the pins and whatnot. I did find a smudge on the back of the CPU that I apparently missed last night. So I restarted it with XMP enabled and it took like 7 auto reboots before first going into disk check on one of my drives then into windows. I am afraid to restart it now, but it does have to be done.

If I use my Xeon then I will not know if XMP works or not because this Xeon does not support XMP.

Regardless do you remember all the basic settings to change for OCing with this MB?

I can't find the sheets I printed out and marked the settings to change but I do at least remember turning off CPU spread spectrum....lol


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well I reseated everything and rechecked the pins and whatnot. I did find a smudge on the back of the CPU that I apparently missed last night. So I restarted it with XMP enabled and it took like 7 auto reboots before first going into disk check on one of my drives then into windows. I am afraid to restart it now, but it does have to be done.
> 
> If I use my Xeon then I will not know if XMP works or not because this Xeon does not support XMP.
> 
> Regardless do you remember all the basic settings to change Ocing with this MB?
> 
> I can't find the sheets I printed out and marked the settings to change but I do at least remember turning off CPU spread spectrum....lol


I knew there was bound to be something on the underside of the CPU, rather surprising how many people check the pins but never the CPU.
From what you are describing it sounds like when you enable XMP mode it is changing one or more settings that it just does not like hence the restarts.

Since I have never overclocked on X79 yet all I can say is try and reset all values to default and overclock manually without using XMP. if the board boots up this way with your current OC setting then XMP is indeed changing something when enabled.
There are lots of posts online with people having the same problem as you and only with XMP enabled :O

If it still fails when not using XMP when the other option I have is the CPU power supply is not enough, are you using the 4-pin or 8-pin to power the CPU as your OC may need more power than you are giving it.

Now I have a question regarding drivers







I always remember Linus from NCIX / Linus tech tips telling people not to use the driver disk, download the latest from the Asus website. Thing is windows 10 gives me 4-5 drivers to download while 8.1 gives me a load more...do I use the disk, download 8.1 latest versions from the website then windows 10 what ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> I knew there was bound to be something on the underside of the CPU, rather surprising how many people check the pins but never the CPU.
> From what you are describing it sounds like when you enable XMP mode it is changing one or more settings that it just does not like hence the restarts.
> 
> Since I have never overclocked on X79 yet all I can say is try and reset all values to default and overclock manually without using XMP. if the board boots up this way with your current OC setting then XMP is indeed changing something when enabled.
> There are lots of posts online with people having the same problem as you and only with XMP enabled :O
> 
> If it still fails when not using XMP when the other option I have is the CPU power supply is not enough, are you using the 4-pin or 8-pin to power the CPU as your OC may need more power than you are giving it.
> 
> Now I have a question regarding drivers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always remember Linus from NCIX / Linus tech tips telling people not to use the driver disk, download the latest from the Asus website. Thing is windows 10 gives me 4-5 drivers to download while 8.1 gives me a load more...do I use the disk, download 8.1 latest versions from the website then windows 10 what ?


Well TBH I have been using this board for over a year now and it has been running fine until I decided to reapply the TIM. I have changed out the CPU a few times, to include testing the Xeon chip. Other than the Xeon XMP has worked fine the whole time. I had my chip OCd to 4.3ghz (which is the max for my sub par 4930k) but everything was running great until now. I keep double checking and looking at everything and it all seems fine except I can't seem to boot normally with any of my OC settings.

I was hoping someone who knows this board could help which is why I posted here.


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well TBH I have been using this board for over a year now and it has been running fine until I decided to reapply the TIM. I have changed out the CPU a few times, to include testing the Xeon chip. Other than the Xeon XMP has worked fine the whole time. I had my chip OCd to 4.3ghz (which is the max for my sub par 4930k) but everything was running great until now. I keep double checking and looking at everything and it all seems fine except I can't seem to boot normally with any of my OC settings.
> 
> I was hoping someone who knows this board could help which is why I posted here.


I just can't see how putting new TIM would mess up your overclock ability in XMP, it is just not possible that it would mess up your board or the CPU. I have only just started using X79 with the Rampage IV BE so i'm sorry if my advice is either already known or whatever XD

The only factor that has changed on your setup is new TIM so the problem must be that, what kind are you using and how old is ?
I use the Noctua NT-H1 and it says replace tube after 2 years, only other thing I can think of is that the new TIM is not transferring the heat away from the CPU fast enough hence the 7 restarts before it works and loads windows.

It has to be the TIM since it is the only change you have made, besides that you could try switching to the second BIOS chip and see if that works. for all we know your BIOS could be bugged somehow.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> I just can't see how putting new TIM would mess up your overclock ability in XMP, it is just not possible that it would mess up your board or the CPU. I have only just started using X79 with the Rampage IV BE so i'm sorry if my advice is either already known or whatever XD
> 
> The only factor that has changed on your setup is new TIM so the problem must be that, what kind are you using and how old is ?
> I use the Noctua NT-H1 and it says replace tube after 2 years, only other thing I can think of is that the new TIM is not transferring the heat away from the CPU fast enough hence the 7 restarts before it works and loads windows.
> 
> It has to be the TIM since it is the only change you have made, besides that you could try switching to the second BIOS chip and see if that works. for all we know your BIOS could be bugged somehow.


I am pretty sure it is not my TIM. I am using the thermal grizzly stuff. My temps are fine for stock settings. it runs mid 20's to low 30's. I am running XMP now but it takes a few restarts before it boots into windows. It keeps wanting to do a disk check on my 2tb WD black drive. I have let it and it supposedly finds errors but even if I do not let it check the disk that drive runs fine. But even if it wasn't that is not my primary drive, it is my games drive.
I did an intel burn test and it passed and faster than it normally does though my CPU is not OC'd right now.
I agree it is odd that it happened after I changed the TIM but it could be the CPU starting to degrade finally. My max OC on this 4930k is 4.3ghz, any higher and it bsods within seconds of starting a stress test no matter the bios settings. But it runs 4.3ghz like a champ with no problems whatsoever (until now). My temps stayed in the low to mid 30's under that OC at idle and no higher than the mid 60's under load. But I made some changes to my PC's cooling set up. I added a HEPA filter at the top above my H240-X and changed the normal side panel with fan to a full window side panel. My temps jumped up about 5 degrees initially but I saw a slow increase in my idle temps over a week. I have since removed the HEPA filter.

It may also be the MB. But I am not entirely sure. Yeah I could try the Xeon chip I have but it does not OC well and does not support XMP. I am thinking it may be time to send the 4930k in for replacement as I have the intel tuning plan on it. It might be the only way to tell.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Sounds WAY more like a bent pin or a mis-seated chip to me. It would be way more than just "coincidental" if your chip suddenly started to "degrade" right after you re-seated it. Occam's Razor would suggest something went wrong in the re-seating.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Sounds WAY more like a bent pin or a mis-seated chip to me. It would be way more than just "coincidental" if your chip suddenly started to "degrade" right after you re-seated it. Occam's Razor would suggest something went wrong in the re-seating.


I agree but I have closely inspected the pins like 4 or 5 times and everything looks good. If I get the chance tomorrow I will open up the PC on the kitchen table and pull most everything out and check it all again. I need to rearrange for some cable management and may try installing the replacement NZXT Grid + V2 for my fans.

What are the basic settings for OC on this board? I know to disable the spread spectrums but what about the other settings like CPU and VCCSA current capabilities and load line calibration amongst others?
I can't find the paper I had that I printed out with all the settings I need to change. It is around here somewhere.......


----------



## xarot

I'd try testing with a single RAM at 1333 MHz and no XMP if it does that, then add more RAM etc.


----------



## Laithan

I am a little confused about the support for XMP with a XEON. Do some XEONs support XMP? My E5-1650v2 seems to have support in this RIVBE.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> I'd try testing with a single RAM at 1333 MHz and no XMP if it does that, then add more RAM etc.


Well if you would have read what I posted you would see that the system boots fine with all settings at stock (F5) which means no XMP. I said before that that it works with XMP off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I am a little confused about the support for XMP with a XEON. Do some XEONs support XMP? My E5-1650v2 seems to have support in this RIVBE.


I would think that some are supported and some are not. The 2670 does not.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well if you would have read what I posted you would see that the system boots fine with all settings at stock (F5) which means no XMP. I said before that that it works with XMP off.
> I would think that some are supported and some are not. The 2670 does not.


Sorry I missed that part. I would still suspect the RAMs first because everything works at bare stock. Afaik, from what I've read, Trident Xs didn't work out of the box on X79 without some manual tuning? Technically when you just enable XMP you are most probably already overclocking.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Sorry I missed that part. I would still suspect the RAMs first because everything works at bare stock. Afaik, from what I've read, Trident Xs didn't work out of the box on X79 without some manual tuning? Technically when you just enable XMP you are most probably already overclocking.


The RAM is fine, I have never had a problem with these 4 sticks of RAM since I built this machine. Except for the time I did bend some CPU pins on the MB, but I was able to fix that. It does boot eventually with XMP enabled though not at all with any OC on the CPU.

It honestly does sound like a bent pin. I double and triple checked but I am laying my PC down on the floor under my desk. Sometime today I will lay it down on the kitchen table and take another look. I will take some isopropyl alcohol and clean it off as best I can just in case some TIM got on the pins.

I will keep you all posted.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Update: Well it got worse as I started getting BSODs every 30 mins or so. I decided to forgo any other plans today and try and fix this issue.
I brought this beast out on to the kitchen table and took it apart. I was able to see there was a section of bent pins that for some reason I did not notice before. I set to straighten them out. While doing that I slipped and bent some other pins, a surgeon I am not. I spent some time doing my best to straighten all the pins out. I then went about cleaning everything off to apply new TIM. I then discovered the only isopropyl we had left was only 70% alcohol. I then went up to the local computer store to see what he had and he told me he has never used anything but soap and water....... yeah ok. That just does not sound like a good computer tech practice so I went to radio shack. They did have some cleaner stuff in stock but I wasn't sure about it. So I finally went to the drugstore and they had at least some 91% in stock so I got that. I got everything back together then decided to install my replacement grid+ v2 along with doing some rewiring for better cable management. After all that I decided to redo the wiring behind my desk for my two monitors, camera, headset, my G13, etc, etc, etc. All in all it was a very productive day. So I decided to try and see if my PC would boot up normally.
I then got on my knees and prayed.......well I was one my knees to get the PC connected but I did pray for it to work, and I booted the computer. First thing it went to the normal "Overclocking failed hit F1 to enter the bios" like it always does whenever I have to remove the cpu for anything. After that it booted up fine. So far it seems to be that everything is working ok, even the Grid+ V2 is actually working this time around. I also found one of the sheets with my OC stuff on it. I still need to find the other but now I know where to look. I hope it all works out this time!!!


----------



## Laithan

Wahoo! Great news I am glad it worked out for you


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Wahoo! Great news I am glad it worked out for you


Yeah and my temps are actually about 3 degrees better than they were before.

Though one of the fans I have connected to the Grid unit is not showing up in it. It is the 200mm front fan and it is running fine but no rpms or anything is showing up in the CAM software for the Grid+ V2 I have.


----------



## GenesisDM

OK I am having a problem fitting my cooler in that no matter what I do it won't screw in









I have tried the Swiftech H240-X, the screws line up but no matter how much I screw them in they just come out when pulling the block of the cpu.
Also tried my swiftech Apogee Hd gold water block (new) and again the screw fit but will not actually screw in.

I know LGA 2011 does not need a back plate and the black edition has its own X shapped plate but its doesn't seam to be doing anything







any idea ?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> OK I am having a problem fitting my cooler in that no matter what I do it won't screw in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried the Swiftech H240-X, the screws line up but no matter how much I screw them in they just come out when pulling the block of the cpu.
> Also tried my swiftech Apogee Hd gold water block (new) and again the screw fit but will not actually screw in.
> 
> I know LGA 2011 does not need a back plate and the black edition has its own X shapped plate but its doesn't seam to be doing anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any idea ?


Should have back plate with it!!! You do need this or will have to get one


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Should have back plate with it!!! You do need this or will have to get one


The motherboard has its own back plate with the screw holes ready. I tried again with the H240-X and the CPU block just does not fit :S, I looked at the paper work and the LGA-2011 screws are already fitted and the back plate they include is only to be used with LGA-1150 so ...confused.

Tried again with my Apogee HD and it fits and it screws in fine....call me stupid but I never opened it till now and did not notice it came with 1366 fitting as stock with 2011 in a bag ><.
So right now I have the Apogee HD connected with H240-X as the block for an unknown reason doesn't fit.

Now my last and only problem is screwing in the CPU block, when I secure on screw even just a little it puts rather a lot of pressure on the CPU. If I ignore the amount of pressure on the CPU I can easily screw it all and be done, however I am worried doing so will damage the CPU or the pins under it as I have no idea if this is normal or not.

I have only built two other systems one being LGA 1366 and the other LGA-1155. Fitting any cooler on these didn't result in this much force being applied to the CPU hence my concern.
So can anyone fill me in as to this kind of tightness if normal on X79 platform or does this sound like something is not right ?
Just to be on the safe side I made sure the CPU retention socket is tightly in place so that is not getting in the way.


----------



## cookiesowns

Has anyone tried an E5-26XX V1 series CPU on this board?

I got a E5-2650 in there temporarily until I can find a decent E5-1650 v2 on flea bay. Turbo seems to lock at the base multiplier, can't even get it to turbo boost at single core at all with 105 bclk. Seems to happen after memory tweaking.

Any ideas?


----------



## 7akata

Quick question.

Does anyone know what screw sizes are used to attach the IO cover to the motherboard. I seperated the heat pipe and want to reattach it, but seem to have misplaced the screws. They have to be pretty small, because I tried MB standoff screws that I had on hand and they weren't even close.

Thanks!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> Has anyone tried an E5-26XX V1 series CPU on this board?
> 
> I got a E5-2650 in there temporarily until I can find a decent E5-1650 v2 on flea bay. Turbo seems to lock at the base multiplier, can't even get it to turbo boost at single core at all with 105 bclk. Seems to happen after memory tweaking.
> 
> Any ideas?


I have a 2670 as a back up for this board and it works. From what I have been told the only OC you can do on these chips is through the bclk and nothing more as the 2600 series is reported as being bad OCers. They also do not support XMP though I have heard you can set the RAM manually (a few did not recommend this for stability reasons). If you find out anything different or find a way to OC more than just bclk let me know for when I may need to use this chip....
You should check out the Xeon thread here for better help.


----------



## Sunreeper

Hey guys, I updated to windows 10 and I'm experiencing random crashes. I want to update my motherboard drivers but the asus website doesn't let me. When I click on the global download link I'm introduced to another webpage with the message:
Quote:


> dlcdnet.asus.com's server DNS address could not be found.


I'm wondering if you guys could inform me how you were able to download the drivers and if an alternative website is available?


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Hey guys, I updated to windows 10 and I'm experiencing random crashes. I want to update my motherboard drivers but the asus website doesn't let me. When I click on the global download link I'm introduced to another webpage with the message:
> I'm wondering if you guys could inform me how you were able to download the drivers and if an alternative website is available?


https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/HelpDesk_Download/

All drivers including updated ones for windows 10. Never had a problem myself after using them all. Also clicked on the Global link and I a download windows does pop up so it is working, hope this helps.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_BLACK_EDITION/HelpDesk_Download/
> 
> All drivers including updated ones for windows 10. Never had a problem myself after using them all. Also clicked on the Global link and I a download windows does pop up so it is working, hope this helps.


Wow, this actually worked. Thanks so much! The odd thing is when I google search "Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Drivers" into google I'm brought to an identical looking website where the global download link does not work. I was actually desperate enough to search around this thread looking for a download link for some windows 10 drivers lol. Thanks again


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Wow, this actually worked. Thanks so much! The odd thing is when I google search "Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Drivers" into google I'm brought to an identical looking website where the global download link does not work. I was actually desperate enough to search around this thread looking for a download link for some windows 10 drivers lol. Thanks again


No problem ^^ about time I actually contribute to this place for once XD
If you still get errors you can always try Driver Booster 3.0 from IObit, its the only program I know that actually helps with driver issues. I am currently using a Alienware M18X-R2 and the Dell website has nothing for windows 10, but Driver booster has kept me up to date and so far I have had no driver problem at all since using it.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> No problem ^^ about time I actually contribute to this place for once XD
> If you still get errors you can always try Driver Booster 3.0 from IObit, its the only program I know that actually helps with driver issues. I am currently using a Alienware M18X-R2 and the Dell website has nothing for windows 10, but Driver booster has kept me up to date and so far I have had no driver problem at all since using it.


Well crap, it was working but I seem to be having the same problem again. I guess this is most likely an issue on my end I'll try to sort it out or give driver booster a try


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Well crap, it was working but I seem to be having the same problem again. I guess this is most likely an issue on my end I'll try to sort it out or give driver booster a try


Just had a try myself just to be sure but, yes it does seam to be some kind of problem on your end as I can download the drivers as normal (windows 10 ones at least) But yes if all else fails give Driver booster a go, even the free mode lets up update all your drivers forever so it is a good thing to have just in case.


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have a 2670 as a back up for this board and it works. From what I have been told the only OC you can do on these chips is through the bclk and nothing more as the 2600 series is reported as being bad OCers. They also do not support XMP though I have heard you can set the RAM manually (a few did not recommend this for stability reasons). If you find out anything different or find a way to OC more than just bclk let me know for when I may need to use this chip....
> You should check out the Xeon thread here for better help.


Yeah, I know about the Multi being locked. But my issue is that turbo boost is totally locked down, eg: even with 1 full single thread workload, it's capped at the max turbo for all 8 cores, which for the 2650 is around 2.2ghz.

I think it has to do with custom memory timings. I'll give it a another go soon. Really need to find an E5-1650 v2 to put in there.


----------



## GenesisDM

Hey everyone I have finally got my build up and running in a rather banged together HAF932. I am currently sitting at 4.0ghz with the normal CPU boost and really want to see how far I can push my CPU, problem is ... I never really got into overclocking till recently.

So from a noob like myself can anyone give me some kind of guide on overclocking on the X79 platform even better if you own a 4960X like myself ^^ I do know there are general guides but so far none of them ever seam to be helpful.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> Hey everyone I have finally got my build up and running in a rather banged together HAF932. I am currently sitting at 4.0ghz with the normal CPU boost and really want to see how far I can push my CPU, problem is ... I never really got into overclocking till recently.
> 
> So from a noob like myself can anyone give me some kind of guide on overclocking on the X79 platform even better if you own a 4960X like myself ^^ I do know there are general guides but so far none of them ever seam to be helpful.


I have several guides you can look through, I will post them below. I had one from the same Asus site that I am unable to find again and it was the most helpful for me though the same info is on the following pages:
Ivy-E OC guide
The following one is pretty much the same as the one I used:
Rampage IV Extreme UEFI Bios guide to OCing
The one I remember using was separated into 2 or 3 pages and seemed better formatted, it may have been written for the RIVBE, not sure. Somewhere way back in this thread I posted a link to that guide. If you find it and it still works please repost it because I need to look at it again....lol.

Here is another I have read through.
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?5835-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Extreme-UEFI-Guide-for-Overclocking


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have several guides you can look through, I will post them below. I had one from the same Asus site that I am unable to find again and it was the most helpful for me though the same info is on the following pages:
> Ivy-E OC guide
> The following one is pretty much the same as the one I used:
> Rampage IV Extreme UEFI Bios guide to OCing
> Here is another I have read through.
> https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?5835-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Extreme-UEFI-Guide-for-Overclocking


Many thanks indeed ^^ no idea why but no matter how much I searched I could never find guides like these








Even one link for Asus on website just brought up a blank page even though it said Black Edition X79 guides, total waste of space.
Hopefully I can understand most of these guides and maybe get to 4.5ghz


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> Many thanks indeed ^^ no idea why but no matter how much I searched I could never find guides like these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even one link for Asus on website just brought up a blank page even though it said Black Edition X79 guides, total waste of space.
> Hopefully I can understand most of these guides and maybe get to 4.5ghz


Please do not forget to disable CPU spread spectrum and the other spread spectrum (do not remember the exact name). I did not disable those when I first started OCing and my attempts failed every time.

If I am able to find the web page or the guide I printed out I will post what initial settings are the most important to change.

Keep this thread updated and Good luck!!


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Please do not forget to disable CPU spread spectrum and the other spread spectrum (do not remember the exact name). I did not disable those when I first started OCing and my attempts failed every time.
> 
> If I am able to find the web page or the guide I printed out I will post what initial settings are the most important to change.
> 
> Keep this thread updated and Good luck!!


Luckily I learned that from this video ^^ also found another for X79 but its the best I had at the time.






and this one


----------



## srialmaster

I just got my RIVBE up and running today. I have it with a E5-1660v2 and 32GB(4x8GB) of Corsair Ballistix LP 1600MHz memory. All of this is sitting nicely in a Corsair 750D with a Corsair 115i to keep the CPU cooled. Looking forward to see how well this CPU will OC.

Happy OCing!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> I just got my RIVBE up and running today. I have it with a E5-1660v2 and 32GB(4x8GB) of Corsair Ballistix LP 1600MHz memory. All of this is sitting nicely in a Corsair 750D with a Corsair 115i to keep the CPU cooled. Looking forward to see how well this CPU will OC.
> 
> Happy OCing!


Where are the pictures? Sounds like some nice gear buddy.









Should get a nice overclock with that cpu and board.


----------



## srialmaster

@MrTOOSHORT

How much did you spend on that there 1680v2???


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> @MrTOOSHORT
> 
> How much did you spend on that there 1680v2???


$1165 usd. Came to over $1500 CAD!


----------



## Mega Man

Coulda bought a new x99 for that


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Coulda bought a new x99 for that


Doubt I am any better spending nearly £400 on a used RIVBE and £320 for a 4960X ES CPU in 2016 :O
Also what are people thoughts on the Rampage V edition 10 that people are calling the V Black Edition ??


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

At the time last summer when I got the 1680 v2, I could have bought the 5960x RVE and some fast ram for about $2500 cad. Then sold off my 4930k, R4BE, and 2666 Plats for around $900.

Figured the 1680 was the best option that saved me a lot of money when the 1680 isn't too far behind the 5960x. The 1680 V2 wasn't known too much at the time and if the did, they probably would have kept their x79 a while longer instead of going x99.

For me though, I was very curious what the 1680 v2 could do in benchies, and so after a couple people confirmed it was unlocked, I went for it.


----------



## srialmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> At the time last summer when I got the 1680 v2, I could have bought the 5960x RVE and some fast ram for about $2500 cad. Then sold off my 4930k, R4BE, and 2666 Plats for around $900.
> 
> Figured the 1680 was the best option that saved me a lot of money when the 1680 isn't too far behind the 5960x. The 1680 V2 wasn't known too much at the time and if the did, they probably would have kept their x79 a while longer instead of going x99.
> 
> For me though, I was very curious what the 1680 v2 could do in benchies, and so after a couple people confirmed it was unlocked, I went for it.


How's the overclocking on the 1680v2? I gotta get more used to this RIVBE. I am running a R3F as well and the BIOS is completely different. I have some Corsair Ballistix Tactical LP 8GB 1600MHz sticks, but I hear they overclock extremely well.


----------



## yoteko

Hey everyone!

Just got this board from second hand and everything looks awesome. But.. I'm worried about the heatsinks near CPU and Chipset heatsink aswell.

Thing is, they are really hot. If if touch them with my hand then they feel very very hot and HWinfo shows few temps that are around 90C.

CPU temps are OK, PCH temp is 40-50C both in BIOS and in HWinfo.

HWinfo screens:



http://imgur.com/bJRw49d




http://imgur.com/G60Q8Y2




http://imgur.com/zgaxnXn


I just wonder if that is a normal thing and the heatsink is just doing its job or is it something to worry about?

Thanks and have a nice day!
-yoteko


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey all I am having some odd issues I would like some input on.

I am getting random BSOD's now.
It first started happening right after I spplied new TIM and accidentally bent a pin. I realized that when I would get a bsod like every 20 mins or so. I found that bent pin and went about straightening it and I slipped and bent like 3 more pins. I mostly straightened them out and all seemed fine until about an hour into browsing the internet I get a bsod. It seems to happen only when the CPU is not under load.
Now I can play games just fine and everything seems to run perfectly fine under load. I have run the intel burn test several times with no ill effect. But it seems to restart after an hour or so when sitting idle, but not all the time. I went out to the hardware store today to get a decent magnifying glass to better see the bent pins (I also picked up LED lighted tweezers, a small LED work light and an infrared temp sensor). When I got home like 2.5 hrs later I expected to see the windows login, but everything was running fine and still is.
FYI when I first started getting the BSODs I F5d my OC and now I do not have any OC on this 4930k except for the normal XMP.

I have been told it sounds more like it is software related because everything seems to run fine under load. But I have not loaded any new software up. I thought it may have been the CAM software as I have heard of others having a siimilar issue when CAM was running. I disabled the CAM software all day yesterday and I still got two BSODs. Some of the software I have has had updates along with windows 10 but how do I tell if these bsods are caused by an update?

What do you all think?


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hey all I am having some odd issues I would like some input on.
> 
> I am getting random BSOD's now.
> It first started happening right after I spplied new TIM and accidentally bent a pin. I realized that when I would get a bsod like every 20 mins or so. I found that bent pin and went about straightening it and I slipped and bent like 3 more pins. I mostly straightened them out and all seemed fine until about an hour into browsing the internet I get a bsod. It seems to happen only when the CPU is not under load.
> Now I can play games just fine and everything seems to run perfectly fine under load. I have run the intel burn test several times with no ill effect. But it seems to restart after an hour or so when sitting idle, but not all the time. I went out to the hardware store today to get a decent magnifying glass to better see the bent pins (I also picked up LED lighted tweezers, a small LED work light and an infrared temp sensor). When I got home like 2.5 hrs later I expected to see the windows login, but everything was running fine and still is.
> FYI when I first started getting the BSODs I F5d my OC and now I do not have any OC on this 4930k except for the normal XMP.
> 
> I have been told it sounds more like it is software related because everything seems to run fine under load. But I have not loaded any new software up. I thought it may have been the CAM software as I have heard of others having a siimilar issue when CAM was running. I disabled the CAM software all day yesterday and I still got two BSODs. Some of the software I have has had updates along with windows 10 but how do I tell if these bsods are caused by an update?
> 
> What do you all think?


Have you given any thought that the problem could be with the OS itself, have you tried installing it again since it could be some form of error, also try booting into safe mode and see if you BSOD again ^^

Finally do you have minidumps enabled so you can post it here and we can have a look ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> Have you given any thought that the problem could be with the OS itself, have you tried installing it again since it could be some form of error, also try booting into safe mode and see if you BSOD again ^^
> 
> Finally do you have minidumps enabled so you can post it here and we can have a look ?


How do I enable minidumps?


----------



## yoteko

Or can anyone post HWinfo screen of those temps as on this screen? Really appriciate the help, cause I don't wanna keep the system running if that is a flaw.



http://imgur.com/G60Q8Y2


----------



## Nammi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoteko*
> 
> Or can anyone post HWinfo screen of those temps as on this screen? Really appriciate the help, cause I don't wanna keep the system running if that is a flaw.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/G60Q8Y2


Been running the mobo with the settings I have since it was launched. If the temps are correct, it sure has been nice and warm for a few years.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## AaronTee

Hey everyone,
Here's my belated entry into the owners club.



I've owned this absolute beauty for over 2 years now without any hassles. At least until the overclocking saga started yesterday.

I have an i7-4960X in there with 32gb of Kingston Beast 2400Mhz Ram. I had another 32gb of G Skill ram in the same category except that the latencies were slightly different and I suspected that it played a big part in crashing the computer when the clock multiplier was boosted.

Anyway, I'll come back with updates as they occur but for now, please accept my entry into the owners club of this magnificent board.

Cheers


----------



## yoteko

Tusen tack!

That's good to know Guess this is how they roll.


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> How do I enable minidumps?


Not sure what OS you are running so how is how to do it for Windows 7 http://blog.nirsoft.net/2010/07/27/how-to-configure-windows-to-create-minidump-files-on-bsod/
Finally this is the way how to enable it for Windows 10 http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/5560-bsod-minidump-configure-create-windows-10-a.html
Windows 8 /8.1 should be the same way as Windows 10, When enables the next time you get a BSOD you should be able to find it C:/Windows/Minidump/.
You will need a program to read it as plain text but that can be found easily on google as there are many so pick the one that works best for you. Once posted we can all have a look and see if we can find the problem ^^


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> Not sure what OS you are running so how is how to do it for Windows 7 http://blog.nirsoft.net/2010/07/27/how-to-configure-windows-to-create-minidump-files-on-bsod/
> Finally this is the way how to enable it for Windows 10 http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/5560-bsod-minidump-configure-create-windows-10-a.html
> Windows 8 /8.1 should be the same way as Windows 10, When enables the next time you get a BSOD you should be able to find it C:/Windows/Minidump/.
> You will need a program to read it as plain text but that can be found easily on google as there are many so pick the one that works best for you. Once posted we can all have a look and see if we can find the problem ^^


I am on Windows 10.
It was apparently already activated.
Here is the minidump file:

062616-12875-01.zip 30k .zip file


Last night before bed I took out the CPU and quadruple checked all the pins. I realigned a couple of them then left my PC run all night and it apparently had a BSOD as it was on the start screen this morning.

Let me know what you find.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am on Windows 10.
> It was apparently already activated.
> Here is the minidump file:
> 
> 062616-12875-01.zip 30k .zip file
> 
> 
> Last night before bed I took out the CPU and quadruple checked all the pins. I realigned a couple of them then left my PC run all night and it apparently had a BSOD as it was on the start screen this morning.
> 
> Let me know what you find.
> 
> Thanks for the help!


Well after using Blue screen view it shows the following
Error bug check code = 0x00000124
Caused by driver = Hal.dll

I had a look online that from other peoples problems it seams to be related to either a hardware/ overclocking/ BIOS problems. Here is a link to someone who has the same error codes as you and hopefully what they suggest can help you fix your pc ^^
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/blue-screen-0x00000124-and-haldll-error/bff7bb96-4b9d-4448-ac4b-6b21dcea8cd7?auth=1


----------



## srialmaster

Error code 0x124 is related to your memory, UCLK and voltage for either. If you are overclocking, you need to either turn increase your VTT voltage, or decrease your UCLK.
If you aren't overclocking, I would suggest running memtest86+ over night and see if you have any errors in the morning.


----------



## Starbomba

I have finally fixed my RIVBE RAM channels. Somehow a little piece of plastic was blocking some pins. Now it is happily chugging on Quad Channel RAM. The only downside is that i only have 28 GB as one of my WonderRAM sticks died









On another note, i wish the 1680v2's were cheaper, i want to replace my 2670 with something faster without losing cores but everything is like 1k+


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenesisDM*
> 
> Well after using Blue screen view it shows the following
> Error bug check code = 0x00000124
> Caused by driver = Hal.dll
> 
> I had a look online that from other peoples problems it seams to be related to either a hardware/ overclocking/ BIOS problems. Here is a link to someone who has the same error codes as you and hopefully what they suggest can help you fix your pc ^^
> http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/blue-screen-0x00000124-and-haldll-error/bff7bb96-4b9d-4448-ac4b-6b21dcea8cd7?auth=1


I am currently not running any OC except for XMP. Whereas before I was running a 4.3 OC on my chip also with XMP enabled.

This points more so to the fault is caused by the bent pins as I had similar problem before with XMP not working correctly and it had to do with a bent pin.

Just to reiterate this problem was worse and started after I replaced the TIM. I went in and found a bent pin, straightened it and thought the issue was fixed, but now it only happens when the PC is not under load or so it seems. I went in last night and checked all the pins under a magnifying glass and good lighting. I messed with a few pins that looked like they may not be making good contact but it apparently did not help any.

I have another issue with this board and one of the onboard fan connectors not working. I had the option of sending it in for RMA but did not want to deal with the time without my board. I will check again and see if they can send me an advanced RMA based on the bad fan pins.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I just finished playing a couple of hours of the newer Homeworld RTS Deserts of Kahark which has an awesome storyline and great background. So far the game seems decent enough but I have yet to play in skirmish mode as I am just enjoying the campaign for now. Shortly after quitting the game I got a BSOD and I let the computer do what it does, brought it back up and was writitng a reply to ASUS when I got a second BSOD. That was fast, the PC was basically idle all day with one restart earlier but now this. It is getting frustrating.
I contacted ASUS support and they mentioned they would help me with an advanced RMA but they no longer have any RIVBE boards in stock......
I am at a loss now as I may have to get a different board. I asked them is there an alternative board they could send me for the advanced RMA.
I may have to purchase a new board myself.
So anyone know of any other good socket 2011 ASUS boards that would work with the OC panel?


----------



## srialmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I just finished playing a couple of hours of the newer Homeworld RTS Deserts of Kahark which has an awesome storyline and great background. So far the game seems decent enough but I have yet to play in skirmish mode as I am just enjoying the campaign for now. Shortly after quitting the game I got a BSOD and I let the computer do what it does, brought it back up and was writitng a reply to ASUS when I got a second BSOD. That was fast, the PC was basically idle all day with one restart earlier but now this. It is getting frustrating.
> I contacted ASUS support and they mentioned they would help me with an advanced RMA but they no longer have any RIVBE boards in stock......
> I am at a loss now as I may have to get a different board. I asked them is there an alternative board they could send me for the advanced RMA.
> I may have to purchase a new board myself.
> So anyone know of any other good socket 2011 ASUS boards that would work with the OC panel?


What happens when you just run the memory at 1333?

If you truely need to replace the board, see if they have the X79 DELUXE. It won't support the OC Bot, but is a really nice board, 2nd to the RIVBE IMHO.

I would check more with the memory. Try the 1333MHz and see what you get.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> What happens when you just run the memory at 1333?
> 
> If you truely need to replace the board, see if they have the X79 DELUXE. It won't support the OC Bot, but is a really nice board, 2nd to the RIVBE IMHO.
> 
> I would check more with the memory. Try the 1333MHz and see what you get.


It may have some to do with the memory but in reference to the bent pins I had to "mostly" fix.

I may try and do the RAM settings manually and see how that works.

Other than setting the voltage to 1.6 and the timings to their respective numbers are there any other settings I need to change in regards to setting the RAM manually?


----------



## contay

Hello. I am pondering if I should switch my cpu for virtualization systems: I currently have [email protected], which is very nice. However, I came across E5 XEON engineering sample, 2687W QB7R ES. Is there any way know for sure if it would work with my mobo? Also: would it be possible to OC it rising bus speed?

Thanks!

-C


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Hello. I am pondering if I should switch my cpu for virtualization systems: I currently have [email protected], which is very nice. However, I came across E5 XEON engineering sample, 2687W QB7R ES. Is there any way know for sure if it would work with my mobo? Also: would it be possible to OC it rising bus speed?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -C


I would check out this thread on the Xeons for more info.
Otherwise I believe the 2600 series works fine with this board.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Hello. I am pondering if I should switch my cpu for virtualization systems: I currently have [email protected], which is very nice. However, I came across E5 XEON engineering sample, 2687W QB7R ES. Is there any way know for sure if it would work with my mobo? Also: would it be possible to OC it rising bus speed?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -C


I have an E5 2670 SR0KX working perfectly on my mobo, and before that i even had a Xeon Q19D or a QA88 (can't remember) which had no issues at all, despite being stepping A. Since the Xeon you want is a "recent" stepping (stepping C) it will most likely work fine as well. The only thing to read about is if you use VT-d, as some early stepping SB-E Xeons do not support the feature, or gives issues while using. If you need it, you need a SB-E CPU with C1 stepping, or go to IB-E Xeons.

However, i wouldn't count on any kind of OCing on it. It is at best hit and miss with Spicy CPUs, and you are getting a 2xxx Xeon, which are all locked, multiplier wise. If you want to OC, it would be best to get an E5 16xx, either V1 or V2, as the quad, hexa, and octacore variants are unlocked. Check this thread for more info on unlocked Xeons.


----------



## srialmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It may have some to do with the memory but in reference to the bent pins I had to "mostly" fix.
> 
> I may try and do the RAM settings manually and see how that works.
> 
> Other than setting the voltage to 1.6 and the timings to their respective numbers are there any other settings I need to change in regards to setting the RAM manually?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It may have some to do with the memory but in reference to the bent pins I had to "mostly" fix.
> 
> I may try and do the RAM settings manually and see how that works.
> 
> Other than setting the voltage to 1.6 and the timings to their respective numbers are there any other settings I need to change in regards to setting the RAM manually?


I would download AIDA64 and check your SPD there. It will give you further settings you can set. Auto doesn't always get what it is supposed to be even with XMP.

Any luck with running the memory at 1333?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Update on my BSOD issue. I went ahead and changed some of the OC settings in my bios except for the actual CPU OC and the vcore. Now I do not get any BSODs at all. That seems odd to me but I am no pro at this yet.

Why would I get BSODs when not having the OC parameters set but no BSODs when they are set?

I also have a question on the LLC settings (Load Line Calibration). I can't find any notes or mention of if I should set them or not so I left them on auto. Any suggestions?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Update on my BSOD issue. I went ahead and changed some of the OC settings in my bios except for the actual CPU OC and the vcore. Now I do not get any BSODs at all. That seems odd to me but I am no pro at this yet.
> 
> Why would I get BSODs when not having the OC parameters set but no BSODs when they are set?
> 
> I also have a question on the LLC settings (Load Line Calibration). I can't find any notes or mention of if I should set them or not so I left them on auto. Any suggestions?


Q: Why would I get BSODs when not having the OC parameters set but no BSODs when they are set?
A: You shouldn't. If you've F5'ed everything back to stock settings, you should never BSOD due to hardware failure unless there's something wrong with your hardware or your bios/uefi image is corrupt.

Q: I also have a question on the LLC settings (Load Line Calibration). I can't find any notes or mention of if I should set them or not so I left them on auto. Any suggestions?
A: LLC is actually a very important piece of your overclock. It's tricky to explain/understand, but Raja over on the ROG forum posted a really good explanation along with graphics to illustrate how it works. If you check in over there I'm sure you'll find it. Fwiw, leaving it at "AUTO" works pretty well for me, though you'll find LLC is a hotly debated setting. Lower is better, but lower doesn't always work. YMMV.

*LLC tip: if you're not closing in on the 1.4v cieling, don't stress about LLC, just leave it on AUTO (or even turn it up if you need to). LLC only becomes something to monitor closely *IMHO* when you're at or near max safe vcore.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Q: Why would I get BSODs when not having the OC parameters set but no BSODs when they are set?
> 
> A: You shouldn't. If you've F5'ed everything back to stock settings, you should never BSOD due to hardware failure unless there's something wrong with your hardware or your bios/uefi image is corrupt.
> 
> Q: I also have a question on the LLC settings (Load Line Calibration). I can't find any notes or mention of if I should set them or not so I left them on auto. Any suggestions?
> 
> A: LLC is actually a very important piece of your overclock. It's tricky to explain/understand, but Raja over on the ROG forum posted a really good explanation along with graphics to illustrate how it works. If you check in over there I'm sure you'll find it. Fwiw, leaving it at "AUTO" works pretty well for me, though you'll find LLC is a hotly debated setting. Lower is better, but lower doesn't always work. YMMV.
> 
> *LLC tip: if you're not closing in on the 1.4v cieling, don't stress about LLC, just leave it on AUTO (or even turn it up if you need to). LLC only becomes something to monitor closely *IMHO* when you're at or near max safe vcore.


That is what I thought so as I did F5 the settings in the BIOS. I am guessing that there may be something wrong with my MB. I am having minor problems with this board as at least one onboard fan controller is not working correctly, I think another has stopped working correctly but I have started using my Grid+ V2 for most of my fans except for my CPU and back exhaust fan. .
One thing though that I recently thought of that may have been the culprit, I had my GPU OC'd the whole time and did not have the PCIe spread spectrum disabled in bios, but I am not sure if that would affect anything or not.

As far as LLC goes, I was told to put them at max (about 180%). I am pretty sure I had them adjusted prior but was not sure......

EDIT: I remember reading the stuff Raja posted but have been having trouble finding the old thread and post that I primarily used for my BIOS settings. I had to go off of some notes and other guides.


----------



## seross69

If anyone wants to water cool their board I am selling my blocks here in the market place. Also selling my 4960x if you want to upgrade your CPU!! Just look in the market place!! Oh yeah a set of 64 GB ram with water blocks and black heat spreaders on them!!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1606257/cpu-for-sale-i-have-a-i7-4960x-for-sale/0_50

http://www.overclock.net/t/1606256/64-gb-2400-mhz-ddr3-ram-with-black-heat-spreaders-and-ek-monarch-cooling-blocks/0_50


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If anyone wants to water cool their board I am selling my blocks here in the market place. Also selling my 4960x if you want to upgrade your CPU!! Just look in the market place!! Oh yeah a set of 64 GB ram with water blocks and black heat spreaders on them!!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1606257/cpu-for-sale-i-have-a-i7-4960x-for-sale/0_50
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1606256/64-gb-2400-mhz-ddr3-ram-with-black-heat-spreaders-and-ek-monarch-cooling-blocks/0_50


Awesome prices. I want both but can't get them right now. Though TBH I have been thinking about upgrading to X99.....


----------



## Laithan

I honestly wouldn't recommend anyone going to X99 from X79. It would be a LOT of money for slightly better performance (scrap all memory also to buy DDR4)... unless you really "NEED" 8 cores (X79 does have the E5-1680 unlocked 8 core also) it will probably disappoint. There's also been a lot of problems with many X99 boards from locking up, burning up, etc.. hearing some nasty problems with burning.

It's hard to beat a RIVBE (could arguably be a downgrade) at least until we see RVBE









If I didn't already have blocks on my board I'd be jumping at that


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I honestly wouldn't recommend anyone going to X99 from X79. It would be a LOT of money for slightly better performance (scrap all memory also to buy DDR4)... unless you really "NEED" 8 cores (X79 does have the E5-1680 unlocked 8 core also) it will probably disappoint. There's also been a lot of problems with many X99 boards from locking up, burning up, etc.. hearing some nasty problems with burning.
> 
> *It's hard to beat a RIVBE (could arguably be a downgrade) at least until we see RVBE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I didn't already have blocks on my board I'd be jumping at that


There is no RVBE, but since it's 10th anniversary of ROG, it's the R5E10
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/ROG-RAMPAGE-V-EDITION-10/

Oh and X99 is now up to 10 cores, if ya didn't know.


----------



## Kimir

double post, sry.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I honestly wouldn't recommend anyone going to X99 from X79. It would be a LOT of money for slightly better performance (scrap all memory also to buy DDR4)... unless you really "NEED" 8 cores (X79 does have the E5-1680 unlocked 8 core also) it will probably disappoint. There's also been a lot of problems with many X99 boards from locking up, burning up, etc.. hearing some nasty problems with burning.
> 
> It's hard to beat a RIVBE (could arguably be a downgrade) at least until we see RVBE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I didn't already have blocks on my board I'd be jumping at that


What @Kimir said plus DDR4 RAM in not that expensive as I have seen it cheaper than DDR3 a few times in the past few months. Here is 32GB of Trident Z 3200mhz RAM for $170. Not cheap but not really that much more expensive than DDR3.


----------



## Kimir

Yeah, but for a better setup, you might want the cas14 one. What's really expensive is the god damn CPU.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What @Kimir said plus DDR4 RAM in not that expensive as I have seen it cheaper than DDR3 a few times in the past few months. Here is 32GB of Trident Z 3200mhz RAM for $170. Not cheap but not really that much more expensive than DDR3.


Agreed, but what I meant was that you can't JUST upgrade the CPU/MB you *ALSO* have to buy all new memory









For maybe a couple fps?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Agreed, but what I meant was that you can't JUST upgrade the CPU/MB you *ALSO* have to buy all new memory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For maybe a couple fps?


Even then it is arguable TBH. The only real reason to upgrade is for more features and being more recent tech.....


----------



## Kimir

Definitely not worth it if it's for gaming.
If you do some solidworks/catia/inventor or maya/3dsmax then it could be of use. Or if you want to crush some cpu score on the bot.


----------



## chrisnyc75

I would echo Laithan. Not really worth "upgrading" to X99 if you're already rocking a SB-e or IB-e & RIVBE. The only solid advantage would be DDR4, but even that really isn't, as far as I can tell, much of an advantage if you have high end low-latency DDR3 (which, let's face it, if you're rocking a RIVBE you're probably rocking Corsair Platinum DDR3). If your RIVBE build is still working smoothly, I'd say there's really no reason to update it until at least Skylake-X next year (depending on what exactly that turns out to be!).

Personally, I'm wondering if there's ANY reason to upgrade anything in my build other than the GPUs for the next 3+ years? I'm leaning towards NO. A few extra SATA6 slots would be nice, as would USB3/USB-C, but honestly I don't really *need* either one.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I would echo Laithan. Not really worth "upgrading" to X99 if you're already rocking a SB-e or IB-e & RIVBE. The only solid advantage would be DDR4, but even that really isn't, as far as I can tell, much of an advantage if you have high end low-latency DDR3 (which, let's face it, if you're rocking a RIVBE you're probably rocking Corsair Platinum DDR3). If your RIVBE build is still working smoothly, I'd say there's really no reason to update it until at least Skylake-X next year (depending on what exactly that turns out to be!).
> 
> Personally, I'm wondering if there's ANY reason to upgrade anything in my build other than the GPUs for the next 3+ years? I'm leaning towards NO. A few extra SATA6 slots would be nice, as would USB3/USB-C, but honestly I don't really *need* either one.


Actually I am rocking 32gb of G.Skill Trident X 2133mhz which basically has the same specs as the Corsair.
I have been thinking of upgrading my CPU because I have a sub par 4930k with a max OC of 4.3 ghz (there are a few discussions on this very thread about this chip). I have been running it day and night at 4.3 ghz with no issues but it will not run for more than 5 mins or so under any circumstances at 4.4ghz. Well TBH it is currently at stock speeds because I had to F5 it and have not gone in and set my OC back yet. I have not noticed any difference in performance yet though so no biggie for now.

I believe my RIVBE is starting to go because so far I have at least one confirmed dead onboard fan controller and possibly a second one has died. Between that and the max OC for my chip I am thinking of going X99 because spending more than a couple hundred on this old socket does not seem worth it.

Note that I have an RMA for this board but I have to send it in for their techs to look at it with no temps replacement boards because they have none in stock and will not be getting any more.


----------



## 45nm

I am joining this club after putting the motherboard through tests before finally replacing my X58A-UD7/X5690 with the E5-2670/Rampage IV Black Edition combo. Proof attached below.



I have also passed on the X99 chipset for the time being due to the relatively new platform age and the chipsets quirks that still have yet to be ironed out. The Rampage IV Black Edition and the E5 2670 offer a great performance combination that is just as good as the 5960X (with the downside of limited overclocking on the 2670).

I am still trying to get used to this motherboard and the various bios options available and from being away from UEFI for so long.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Actually I am rocking 32gb of G.Skill Trident X 2133mhz which basically has the same specs as the Corsair.
> I have been thinking of upgrading my CPU because I have a sub par 4930k with a max OC of 4.3 ghz (there are a few discussions on this very thread about this chip). I have been running it day and night at 4.3 ghz with no issues but it will not run for more than 5 mins or so under any circumstances at 4.4ghz. Well TBH it is currently at stock speeds because I had to F5 it and have not gone in and set my OC back yet. I have not noticed any difference in performance yet though so no biggie for now.
> 
> I believe my RIVBE is starting to go because so far I have at least one confirmed dead onboard fan controller and possibly a second one has died. Between that and the max OC for my chip I am thinking of going X99 because spending more than a couple hundred on this old socket does not seem worth it.
> 
> Note that I have an RMA for this board but I have to send it in for their techs to look at it with no temps replacement boards because they have none in stock and will not be getting any more.


I see. Have you considered using the Intel Precision Tuning Replacement Plan to replace the chip? If your current one is max'ed out at 4.3, it can't hurt to try your luck with a replacement chip. You can't do worse in the silicon lottery than 4.3, you can only get one that might be better.

Anyway, good luck with it - I know you've had issues with your build for quite some time already, I hope you get it all straightened out and working like you want it to soon!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *45nm*
> 
> I am joining this club after putting the motherboard through tests before finally replacing my X58A-UD7/X5690 with the E5-2670/Rampage IV Black Edition combo. Proof attached below.
> 
> I have also passed on the X99 chipset for the time being due to the relatively new platform age and the chipsets quirks that still have yet to be ironed out. The Rampage IV Black Edition and the E5 2670 offer a great performance combination that is just as good as the 5960X (with the downside of limited overclocking on the 2670).
> 
> I am still trying to get used to this motherboard and the various bios options available and from being away from UEFI for so long.


Welcome  It's not super-active around here these days, but do let us know if you run into any problems or have any questions. I think we have a few folks here who are using the Xeon/RIVBE combo, so they'll be glad to have another on board.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I see. Have you considered using the Intel Precision Tuning Replacement Plan to replace the chip? If your current one is max'ed out at 4.3, it can't hurt to try your luck with a replacement chip. You can't do worse in the silicon lottery than 4.3, you can only get one that might be better.
> 
> Anyway, good luck with it - I know you've had issues with your build for quite some time already, I hope you get it all straightened out and working like you want it to soon!


Yes actually I already have the intel tuning plan and was planning on doing that. But The only back up CPU I have is an E5 2670, which is limited to OCing through the base clock or which at best I may reach 3 ghz..... I am still thinking of sending it in but I just do not want to wait that long for the replacement to get back to me.....


----------



## 45nm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not super-active around here these days, but do let us know if you run into any problems or have any questions. I think we have a few folks here who are using the Xeon/RIVBE combo, so they'll be glad to have another on board.


Glad to be in this club. I am really liking what LGA2011 offers versus my previous LGA1366 setup especially with the onboard USB3 header (no need for a seperate card to use my Haf X USB3 header). I am hoping that when the prices further drop for the V2 Xeons that I can pick them up say months or even a year from now. A 2.8Ghz or 3Ghz 10c/20t 2680 v2 or 2690 v2 is a very enticing future upgrade. In the meantime after playing Dying Light I haven't really noticed a huge difference in gaming performance versus my previous X5690 configuration.


----------



## Laithan

E5-1650 v2 here. I am enjoying it very much!!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Want a motherboard block for your R4BE?

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1606685/fs-ek-fb-kit-asus-r4be-nickel-acetal*


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Want a motherboard block for your R4BE?
> 
> *http://www.overclock.net/t/1606685/fs-ek-fb-kit-asus-r4be-nickel-acetal*


That is a bit expensive for a used EK block.
I already have one that someone on here sent me for free.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That is a bit expensive for a used EK block.
> I already have one that someone on here sent me for free.


BNIB/sealed means never used.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Has anyone upgraded to the new GTX 1080s with this board yet? Hoping that the the 1080ti version is on the way toward the end of the year.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Has anyone upgraded to the new GTX 1080s with this board yet? Hoping that the the 1080ti version is on the way toward the end of the year.


I had a 1080 for a few days on the R4BE, but returned it for the upcoming Titan X. I had no issues at all.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Has anyone upgraded to the new GTX 1080s with this board yet? Hoping that the the 1080ti version is on the way toward the end of the year.


I'm also waiting for the 1080Ti and it would be nice if they got one out before October. But that is wishful thinking....lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I had a 1080 for a few days on the R4BE, but returned it for the upcoming Titan X. I had no issues at all.


I am surprised you are not going to wait for the 1080Ti's. I am thinking the Ti's will make the Titans mostly irrelevant. Like they did in the 980 series.
Unless you do lots of video rendering, or is there another purpose?


----------



## Laithan

This

and

This too

*EDIT:* Added another link

"_The GP100 GPU is comprised of *3840 CUDA cores*, 240 texture units and a 4096bit memory interface. The 3840 CUDA cores are arranged in six Graphics Processing Clusters, or GPCs for short. Each of these has 10 Pascal Streaming Multiprocessors. As mentioned earlier in the article the Tesla P100 features a cut down GP100 GPU. This cut back version has 3584 CUDA cores and 224 texture mapping units._

"
^ This may before they called it GP102, not sure


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> This


Interesting. I wonder if the Ti will have the same architecture or not?


----------



## Shadowarez

Aren't Ti's just Failed Titans with less VRAM? So they bin them differently cut some VRAM out and resell cards that didn't make Titan Grade,

Like how i7 Intel CPUs are xeon with cut cores and cache since didn't make it as Xeons.


----------



## Mega Man

Psst all intel chips are failed xeons

Also titans have some features ti's dont and vise versa


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Aren't Ti's just Failed Titans with less VRAM? So they bin them differently cut some VRAM out and resell cards that didn't make Titan Grade,
> 
> Like how i7 Intel CPUs are xeon with cut cores and cache since didn't make it as Xeons.


Actually the Ti's offer more bang for the buck compared to the Titans. I have seen many charts where a Ti did almost as good if not slightly better in some benchmarks. From what I have heard and seen with a Ti you get comparable gaming results but at a much lower cost. I could not afford a 980 Ti but this time I am trying to wait for the 1080 Ti.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Actually the Ti's offer more bang for the buck compared to the Titans. I have seen many charts where a Ti did almost as good if not slightly better in some benchmarks. From what I have heard and seen with a Ti you get comparable gaming results but at a much lower cost. I could not afford a 980 Ti but this time I am trying to wait for the 1080 Ti.


That is a matter of opinion and also depends on how you are using them


----------



## Bulldozer72

@Madmaxneo

What is the status of your RMA for your RIV BE? Is Asus going to get you some other comparable X79 mobo to replace the RIV BE if they are not going to have any available for warranty replacement?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bulldozer72*
> 
> @Madmaxneo
> 
> What is the status of your RMA for your RIV BE? Is Asus going to get you some other comparable X79 mobo to replace the RIV BE if they are not going to have any available for warranty replacement?


I still have it. I do not want to wait while they poke and prod and figure out how to fix it. I will deal with the minor issues I have for now.


----------



## Bulldozer72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bulldozer72*
> 
> @Madmaxneo
> 
> What is the status of your RMA for your RIV BE? Is Asus going to get you some other comparable X79 mobo to replace the RIV BE if they are not going to have any available for warranty replacement?
> 
> 
> 
> I still have it. I do not want to wait while they poke and prod and figure out how to fix it. I will deal with the minor issues I have for now.
Click to expand...

Ah, OK. I will tip toe through my CPU upgrade and make sure nothing gets derped. I do not want to wait indefinately on Asus, running my second string rig. It has its own particularities that get annoying very quick like for me when I game with it. This motherboard has been fabulous *knocks on wooden desk* , but I did not get mine until Oct. 2014 and I wondered if Asus would actually have warranty replacement mobo's until Q3 or Q4 of 2017. I guess I will not go completely nuts OCing the CPU when I upgrade to a hexa-core here shortly. Eh, games have not shown much if any noticeable improvement past 4.5 giggles for at least a couple of years now IMO. With a hexa I see this rig lasting me through PS5 and XBthree, that is if I do not DA it up some how.


----------



## yttocstfarc

Now I remember reading that some sli configurations were bottlenecking x79 CPUs. I think Jayz2cents said it. Did the new sli bridges take some of that load off of the CPUs?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yttocstfarc*
> 
> Now I remember reading that some sli configurations were bottlenecking x79 CPUs. I think Jayz2cents said it. Did the new sli bridges take some of that load off of the CPUs?












Jayz2Cent







lol . To answer, no this is not the case at all.

*Real short version*: ALL _*modern*_ desktop/workstation class chipsets EXCEPT X79 and X99 are extremely limited when it comes to PCI-e lanes (16 PCI-e lanes.. 20 total with 4 you cannot use without M.2). HOWEVER, people run 2xSLI on these chipsets without an issue... it's not a bottleneck really even on these chipsets (example: Z170). It's been proven.. *unless you try to run other PCI-e cards with 2xSLI then you can run into the issues.*

The X79 and X99 on the other hand offer MORE PCI-e lanes (40 of them, basically double)... so if there's ANY chipset that's going to be running out of PCI-e bandwidth it's *not* going to be X79 or X99 unless you're running an insane 4xGPU SLI + Mega RAID array on a PCI-e controller...and X99 would suffer the same fate. In fact, even the older PCI-e 2.0 16x is more than sufficient to handle the data any modern GPU needs to pass. The GPU renders and displays the image.. most of the work is done on the GPU with it's own frame buffers so there's really not a lot of data going across PCI-e (textures are loaded and swapped a lot).

As far as the new SLI bridge, there's really nothing special going on with those bridges AFAIK. Here's the key points: The new HB SLI bridge is only needed at 5K+ or surround (all res!?).


When you do use the configurations where the extra bandwidth is used (as described in pic above) I believe your GPUs are simply using all "4 SLI fingers" for 2-way SLI instead of the "2 SLI fingers" used for 2-way SLI now. Makes you understand why they cannot support 3-way and 4-way anymore since they decided to use all 4 SLI fingers for only 2 GPUs..

*
I believe there is zero difference using the new SLI bridge compared to the old ones UNLESS you are using 5K or surround where that bandwidth could even be generated/utilized.*


----------



## Shadowarez

I traded my Evga 980Ti SC for a Asus Titan X as I game on a Gsync monitor I didn't need the performance it had I love my Titan X I'll pass it to my Render Rig when a worthy HBM 2 card comes out.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I traded my Evga 980Ti SC for a Asus Titan X as I game on a Gsync monitor I didn't need the performance it had I love my Titan X I'll pass it to my Render Rig when a worthy HBM 2 card comes out.


Well you traded up not down!!!


----------



## Shadowarez

Was told otherwise by alot of ppl but I have a plan for it. Plus I hope to turn my Rive 4 Be into a server once xpoint find become available can the rive 4 be take a xeon think I'll go all out and even get a 64gb set for ram drive. Host my ark server off that and the 4960x or a hex core Xeon if they aren't in the $$$$$$$ range by then.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Was told otherwise by alot of ppl but I have a plan for it. Plus I hope to turn my Rive 4 Be into a server once xpoint find become available can the rive 4 be take a xeon think I'll go all out and even get a 64gb set for ram drive. Host my ark server off that and the 4960x or a hex core Xeon if they aren't in the $$$$$$$ range by then.


Titan X is actually faster clock to clock having more CUDA Cores and Texture Units, but 980TI often seems to overclock higher and thus be a little faster.


----------



## Shadowarez

Nice then there's no buyers remorse I plan on putting it in my HTPC for backing up my blue ray collection. And soon ultra blue ray once drives come outa capable of that.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

Is anyone having strange USB issues with Windows 10 ?

When I connect my Galaxy Tab 12.2 and try copy files across, it disconnects all my USB devices and reconnects them and I have to wait a second before my KB+M and my Ext. HDDs are connected again


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Is anyone having strange USB issues with Windows 10 ?
> 
> When I connect my Galaxy Tab 12.2 and try copy files across, it disconnects all my USB devices and reconnects them and I have to wait a second before my KB+M and my Ext. HDDs are connected again


That is odd. I had (may still have) issues with USB 2.0 devices not starting up with windows when they are plugged into a USB 3.0 port but it is nothing like your issue.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Is anyone having strange USB issues with Windows 10 ?
> 
> When I connect my Galaxy Tab 12.2 and try copy files across, it disconnects all my USB devices and reconnects them and I have to wait a second before my KB+M and my Ext. HDDs are connected again


(1) Does this happen on another PC also?
(2) Does this happen on ALL USB ports even the ones in the back inside the I/O shield built on to the motherboard?

You can try to unplug all USB headers from the board and try again with just the built-in USB ports on the back to rule out a wire short


----------



## Mega Man

Not a issue for me


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> (1) Does this happen on another PC also?
> (2) Does this happen on ALL USB ports even the ones in the back inside the I/O shield built on to the motherboard?
> 
> You can try to unplug all USB headers from the board and try again with just the built-in USB ports on the back to rule out a wire short


1) It only happens on this pc
2) Happens on all USB both on the Front Panel and Rear I/O


----------



## Postrach

Does this mobo support e1650 3,2ghz sandy-bridge ep?


----------



## utnorris

Anyone know what the chip labeled Po700 next to the chasis fan fan 1 by the power plug does?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> 1) It only happens on this pc
> 2) Happens on all USB both on the Front Panel and Rear I/O


IMO It sounds like a short of some type... When things like this happen it's time to go back to the bench. I would pull the motherboard and put it on the bench for testing. Cases can ground things especially if a metal standoff is not in the right location.


----------



## Redshift 91

Posrach
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> E5-1650 v2 here. I am enjoying it very much!!


this is a few pages back.

I'd assume if it supports the ivy-e part the sandy part is too


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Posrach
> this is a few pages back.
> 
> I'd assume if it supports the ivy-e part the sandy part is too


Ya


----------



## 45nm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redshift 91*
> 
> Posrach
> this is a few pages back.
> 
> I'd assume if it supports the ivy-e part the sandy part is too


Yes it supports Sandy Bridge-EP. I am running a E5 2670 on it so a E5 16 series should be not an issue.


----------



## Madmaxneo

So I installed Windows 10 anniversary.... Other than a sound issue that was fixed with a reset of the registry fix I had to uninstall the ROG Gamefirst II software. I have to reinstall it and I have not been able to find the download for the file. Does anyone know where I can get the latest version?


----------



## Kimir

Straight up googled "ROG Gamefirst II", here is what I got: https://www.asus.com/support/faq/1013587


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Straight up googled "ROG Gamefirst II", here is what I got: https://www.asus.com/support/faq/1013587


I Googled the same thing and all i got was a bunch of forums and some reviews. I also got the ROG homepage of which certain downloads were not working...

Thanks for the link! I am installing right now.


----------



## Kimir

I'm in France, so google.fr was the 2nd hit on that search, I've only removed the /fr/ in the url. Glad it could help.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey all again.
For those that use the AI suite 3 and Windows 10 64bit, but those who have Windows 7 or 8 can chime in and offer some advice.
Currently the latest version of AI suite 3 is only available for this board up to Windows 8.1. I was given the link by an ASUS tech to it to see if it would work with my Windows 10 64 bit OS.

The reason I am asking is the latest version of AI suite 3 has a couple more features that I plan on using along with updated versions of the software included like the USB 3.0 boost.

Does the AI suite 3 version for 8.1 work fine with Windows 10?


----------



## Madmaxneo

I need some help.

I can't get into my bios with my keyboard.

My keyboard is not initializing until after the boot sequence has passed the option to hit F2 or the delete key to get into the bios. I also do not have a working PS/2 keyboard, either that or my PS/2 port is not working because the keyboard would not even light up after boot. I know there is a way to do it if I reset my bios but for one I really do not want to go through all my OC settings again and for another I have heard that resetting the bios on these boards can be troublesome.

Any other suggestions or tricks to be able to get into the bios?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Update: This is weird.

I was going to just type that but I figure it might help to explain...lol

I was able to find out how to get the PC to automatically go into the bios from windows. But when i got there I could not do anything because the USB keyboard and mouse were not enabled.

But I was finally able to get my PS/2 keyboard working. I got into the bios and discovered that partial USB support is enabled so the keyboard and mouse should work. I enabled full usb support anyway. Booted it up then restarted and my usb keyboard and mouse still do not work.

So I went to overclocking like my original intention was. I set all my values, booted it up, waited for my stress test software to up date then started the stress test. It was then I realized that there was no OC at all, along with no turbo. I had turned off the turbo anyway as normal. I went into the bios and all my OC settings were still in place. But they never showed up in Windows.

Should I reset my bios or could this be a new Windows thing?


----------



## Shadowarez

I seen that happen it could be issue with cpuz not reading info right but every so often I had to make sure the PC I have is being applied. The USB not working is pleasant when that happened I just moved keyboard to Diff USB ports. Never connect to flashback port lol you'll lose access to keyboard every few seconds.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I seen that happen it could be issue with cpuz not reading info right but every so often I had to make sure the PC I have is being applied. The USB not working is pleasant when that happened I just moved keyboard to Diff USB ports. Never connect to flashback port lol you'll lose access to keyboard every few seconds.


CPU-Z, Task Manager, OCCT, AI Suite 3, were all reading the same thing. I have also noticed something else. My system seems to stay in turbo mode all the time, constant 3.9 ghz. Not sure why that is happening now. But it never drops down like it used to.
Basically there is no USB support until the OS loads and I have it set to full USB support in the bios. I still believe it is an OS problem.....


----------



## Shadowarez

Which bios are you using? I'm using a custom one I got from Asus forums guy made em in the x79 thread it was the one before the beta that came out to support 128gb of ram.

Also I stopped using ai suit along time ago too many issues with oc not stable when booting.

I found I don't need the ai suit for my settings I turned turbo off so CPU always runs at 4.8ghz instead of changing from idle 3.2ghz then boosting to my oc.

I just wish i left 1 bios original it was the most stable one I had but I failed a flash on one and flashed the other with a custom bios.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Which bios are you using? I'm using a custom one I got from Asus forums guy made em in the x79 thread it was the one before the beta that came out to support 128gb of ram.
> 
> Also I stopped using ai suit along time ago too many issues with oc not stable when booting.
> 
> I found I don't need the ai suit for my settings I turned turbo off so CPU always runs at 4.8ghz instead of changing from idle 3.2ghz then boosting to my oc.
> 
> I just wish i left 1 bios original it was the most stable one I had but I failed a flash on one and flashed the other with a custom bios.


I am using bios 0701, which is the one before the 128gb of RAM support (0801).
I discovered that my max OC (when it works) is 4.3 ghz with or without AI suite and it is stable for me. I like AI suite because of the monitoring and the extra features it has. I seriously think it is windows 10 as I know of a few people who were using bclk skew and it would not work in windows 10, meaning any changes they made in the bios with skew did not show up when booted up in windows. I am not using bclk skew but it is a good indication..

FYI you can always clear your CMOS and go back to the bios your MB was shipped with and then download the 0701 (or the 0801 if you prefer) and go from there. If you do decide to clear your cmos to reset your bios do not use the clear cmos button on the I/O board slots. Using that button apparently really drains your battery. That is from an Asus tech.


----------



## Laithan

Is there any difference with regard to overclocking/stability between 0701 and 0801 or were the changes only to support the larger memory capacity (anyone notice a difference?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Is there any difference with regard to overclocking/stability between 0701 and 0801 or were the changes only to support the larger memory capacity (anyone notice a difference?


I have been told the only difference was the support for the larger memory capacity, otherwise ECC memory I believe.


----------



## Shadowarez

The 0701 bios I have is just modded for the newer raid from and Intel RST raid support. I'm thinking if this board still the original never rma it once since bought I'll have to frame it in some weird lian like case.
it has been the best rig is built and still killing it for any game I play.

Only thing I need to get really is a nice nvme Intel 750 800gb pcie drive as boot my 840's are getting rather long in the tooth I can transfer those over for my ark server for save states.

Ty for that tidbit I'll try it on my other bios the only change I wanted would be the raid from updated on original bios. I had my CPU hitting 5ghz stable until I buggered with bios's stress tested with Crisis 3 and Intel burn test lol.


----------



## Fliwatuet

Hey there!

I need some advice!

Would you still buy this motherboard or do you recommend X99? I can get a used RIVBE with a few months of warranty left for 260,- Euro (~$ 290). Do you think, this is a bargain? Is it worth investing that amount of money into an aging platform?

I already own an i7 3930k but it is no problem to sell this puppy.

Additionally I have a couple of questions:

1. Do I need to plug in both the 8 pin and the 4 pin ATX connectors? I read in the Rampage forum that just plugging in the 8 pin ATX will be sufficient. My PSU unfortunately has just one 8 pin ATX and no additional 4 pin connector.

2. Is a 500W PSU in combination with a GTX 1070 enough?

3. I am using a Thermalright Macho HR-02 Rev. 1 as CPU cooler on my i7 2600 (1155 socket). Will this fit the 2011 socket? Or do I need accessory parts? Is zip-tying a temporary solution?

4. Is the board fully compliant to Win10? If not, what is not working?

Thanks a lot in advance, your help ist really appreciated! I am very new to this platform.

Greets from Belgium
Fliwatuet


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

@Fliwatuet

Board for $290 usd is kind of a little too much money, but it's not outrageous. Helps to own the cpu already.

Just need the 8pin cpu plug, 4 pin is needed for heavy bench sessions using extreme cooling.

500w is more than enough as long as the power supply is a good one.

The cpu cooler, no idea.

I'm running Windows 10 on my R4BE, no issues what so ever.

And welcome to OCN.


----------



## Fliwatuet

Thanks MrTOOSHORT!

Highend hardware is expensive over here in Europe. In Belgium I have to pay 21% VAT/GST when I buy new stuff :-( My PSU is a Be Quiet Straight Power 10, I consider this a good one.

I'm not sure if I should go for X79 or for new hardware like X99 or Z170. I do not have any M.2 oder USB 3.1 devices, but maybe in the future? And what about durability of the board? Will it survive the next 2-3 years? Or should I wait for Zen? Damn.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fliwatuet*
> 
> Thanks MrTOOSHORT!
> 
> Highend hardware is expensive over here in Europe. In Belgium I have to pay 21% VAT/GST when I buy new stuff :-( My PSU is a Be Quiet Straight Power 10, I consider this a good one.
> 
> I'm not sure if I should go for X79 or for new hardware like X99 or Z170. I do not have any M.2 oder USB 3.1 devices, but maybe in the future? And what about durability of the board? Will it survive the next 2-3 years? Or should I wait for Zen? Damn.


Z170 is tough for me to recommend because of the whole PCI-e lane BS limitations.

IMO x99 is more problematic (heard some nightmare stories about some mid-range boards) and unless you need DDR4 (nobody NEEDS DDR4) and some other bells and whistles you said you wouldn't need.. Broadwell-E is not all that much faster core for core. It comes down to number of cores. If you want more than 6 cores you'll need to go with x99 unless you get an E5-1680v2 (8 cores and expensive) but above 8 cores you MUST go to x99.

I was faced with the same decision and I went with x79 RIVBE because it's one of the best boards you can buy... I went with an E5-1650v2 because it was relatively cheap and it's an unlocked chip so it's really more about what YOU need and use the PC for to be able to answer the question. I'm primarily a gamer and 6 cores is more than enough for anything.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I contacted Asus about my issues and it seems they want me to start an RMA. I currently do not have a standby system if I send this in. They also do not have any RIVBE boards in stock so I would have to send it in without them sending me a replacement. My options right now are to see if there is a board cheap enough for me to consider and try and get Asus to send me a different X79 board as a temporary replacement.

What do you all recommend as a possible temporary replacement for my RIVBE while it is being serviced?

Also, If someone can find me a price on a decent x79 board for about $200 that would be awesome. So far I have not been able to find anything that inexpensive.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## bwana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hey all again.
> For those that use the AI suite 3 and Windows 10 64bit, but those who have Windows 7 or 8 can chime in and offer some advice.
> Currently the latest version of AI suite 3 is only available for this board up to Windows 8.1. I was given the link by an ASUS tech to it to see if it would work with my Windows 10 64 bit OS.
> 
> The reason I am asking is the latest version of AI suite 3 has a couple more features that I plan on using along with updated versions of the software included like the USB 3.0 boost.
> 
> Does the AI suite 3 version for 8.1 work fine with Windows 10?


yes it works fine. but i still cannot control the optional fan headers


----------



## bwana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am using bios 0701, which is the one before the 128gb of RAM support (0801).
> I discovered that my max OC (when it works) is 4.3 ghz with or without AI suite and it is stable for me. I like AI suite because of the monitoring and the extra features it has. I seriously think it is windows 10 as I know of a few people who were using bclk skew and it would not work in windows 10, meaning any changes they made in the bios with skew did not show up when booted up in windows. I am not using bclk skew but it is a good indication..
> 
> FYI you can always clear your CMOS and go back to the bios your MB was shipped with and then download the 0701 (or the 0801 if you prefer) and go from there. If you do decide to clear your cmos to reset your bios do not use the clear cmos button on the I/O board slots. Using that button apparently really drains your battery. That is from an Asus tech.


I a still on 0403. I run at 4.6 ghz wo probs. 32 gig ram. 4930k.

Is there any functionality the newer bioses add?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I contacted Asus about my issues and it seems they want me to start an RMA. I currently do not have a standby system if I send this in. They also do not have any RIVBE boards in stock so I would have to send it in without them sending me a replacement. My options right now are to see if there is a board cheap enough for me to consider and try and get Asus to send me a different X79 board as a temporary replacement.
> 
> What do you all recommend as a possible temporary replacement for my RIVBE while it is being serviced?
> 
> Also, If someone can find me a price on a decent x79 board for about $200 that would be awesome. So far I have not been able to find anything that inexpensive.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


just a fyi there is a direct bios button next time


----------



## Fliwatuet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*


Thanks for your answer. I don't need more than 6 cores, the system is thought for gaming and just a little bit video editing.

What RAM could you recommend für the RIVBE? Does the speed matter a lot? 1600, 1866 or 2133? I wanna go for 32GB, either for VM and as RAM Disk for games.

What about the durability of the RIVBE? Is it likely to survive the next 2 to 3 years with a modest overclock?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just a fyi there is a direct bios button next time


How would that help with me not having a standby board?


----------



## Mega Man

it would help when you cant get into the bios as your keyboard is not initialized ( i dont / cant check each forum every day )


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it would help when you cant get into the bios as your keyboard is not initialized ( i dont / cant check each forum every day )


It wouldn't help me with a standby motherboard. I was asking for advice on a temporary replacement for my RIVBE so I can send it in for warranty service. So I am not sure how using the direct bios button would help me with that......
FYI with Windows 10 you can get into your bios by going though the OS itself so that when it restarts it will automatically go into the bios.

But I still need to use my PS/2 keyboard. Otherwise I would not be able to do anything as my USB keyboard and mouse do not work still.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Update: It seems ASUS is unable to send me an advanced RMA using a different board than a RIVBE. Since they do not have any, nor will they get any, RIVBE boards in stock then I would have to send my MB in without a temporary replacement.

So I will ask again; Does anyone know of a decent X79 (socket 2011) motherboard, that I can get at a low cost, as a temporary replacement for my RIVBE?

EDIT: Further update.... I have noticed that my computer tends to stay in turbo mode almost all the time. Right now I am not sure what is causing that. Is it possible it could be a setting I made in the bios?

Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## Kimir

A rampage 4 extreme, formula or gene would do, I in fact use the R4E in my main rig and the the BE. This one sit in a box with a bad clocker 4930K, waiting for a case to be put on.
That is if you can find on for cheap.


----------



## PsyM4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So I will ask again; Does anyone know of a decent X79 (socket 2011) motherboard, that I can get at a low cost, as a temporary replacement for my RIVBE?


Any MSI board with 8 RAM slots will do, if you can find one. x79 boards are getting quite rare.

Just make sure it comes with an updated BIOS, otherwise it won't boot with 4xxx processors.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It wouldn't help me with a standby motherboard. I was asking for advice on a temporary replacement for my RIVBE so I can send it in for warranty service. So I am not sure how using the direct bios button would help me with that......
> FYI with Windows 10 you can get into your bios by going though the OS itself so that when it restarts it will automatically go into the bios.
> 
> But I still need to use my PS/2 keyboard. Otherwise I would not be able to do anything as my USB keyboard and mouse do not work still.


Do you have these settings as Enabled in BIOS?

Legacy USB Support: Enabled
Legacy USB 3.0 Support: Enabled

Also, make sure you try USB 2.0 ports first in the back of the mobo.

You started and RMA before resetting BIOS? Or did you have other issues with the board too? IMO, any X79 cheap board that supports your other components is just fine as a temporary board.


----------



## Mega Man

Does this help to remind you as to why a direct bios button would help?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I need some help.
> 
> I can't get into my bios with my keyboard.
> 
> My keyboard is not initializing until after the boot sequence has passed the option to hit F2 or the delete key to get into the bios. I also do not have a working PS/2 keyboard, either that or my PS/2 port is not working because the keyboard would not even light up after boot. I know there is a way to do it if I reset my bios but for one I really do not want to go through all my OC settings again and for another I have heard that resetting the bios on these boards can be troublesome.
> 
> Any other suggestions or tricks to be able to get into the bios?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Does this help to remind you as to why a direct bios button would help?


That would help for that but you quoted the next post I made in reference to finding a temporary replacement board.
The following is the post you quoted which is the one I asked for recommendations on a replacement board:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I contacted Asus about my issues and it seems they want me to start an RMA. I currently do not have a standby system if I send this in. They also do not have any RIVBE boards in stock so I would have to send it in without them sending me a replacement. My options right now are to see if there is a board cheap enough for me to consider and try and get Asus to send me a different X79 board as a temporary replacement.
> 
> What do you all recommend as a possible temporary replacement for my RIVBE while it is being serviced?
> 
> Also, If someone can find me a price on a decent x79 board for about $200 that would be awesome. So far I have not been able to find anything that inexpensive.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PsyM4n*
> 
> Any MSI board with 8 RAM slots will do, if you can find one. x79 boards are getting quite rare.
> 
> Just make sure it comes with an updated BIOS, otherwise it won't boot with 4xxx processors.


I'll look them up. So far the cheapest Asus board I could find was a Rampage IV extreme for $299.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Do you have these settings as Enabled in BIOS?
> 
> Legacy USB Support: Enabled
> Legacy USB 3.0 Support: Enabled
> 
> Also, make sure you try USB 2.0 ports first in the back of the mobo.
> 
> You started and RMA before resetting BIOS? Or did you have other issues with the board too? IMO, any X79 cheap board that supports your other components is just fine as a temporary board.


No and yes, I have a previous RMA for one of the onboard fan connectors not working properly that I never used.

All the settings are enabled as you mentioned. I still think it has something to do with the anniversary update for windows 10. Last night I realized that the rollback the Windows tech support helped me with did not rollback to the 1511 build as I am still on build 1607 (anniversary).

EDIT: I forgot to mention that if I start hitting the keys on my USB keyboard during boot up the power indicator button will light up for a millisecond. But it doesn't actually come on completely until the OS loads.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I'll look them up. So far the cheapest Asus board I could find was a Rampage IV extreme for $299.
> No and yes, I have a previous RMA for one of the onboard fan connectors not working properly that I never used.
> 
> All the settings are enabled as you mentioned. I still think it has something to do with the anniversary update for windows 10. Last night I realized that the rollback the Windows tech support helped me with did not rollback to the 1511 build as I am still on build 1607 (anniversary).
> 
> EDIT: I forgot to mention that if I start hitting the keys on my USB keyboard during boot up the power indicator button will light up for a millisecond. But it doesn't actually come on completely until the OS loads.


Try disabling Fast Boot in BIOS, also lengthen the boot time from 3 seconds to 6 seconds. It could be that your keyboard is not yet fully initialized when the mobo is already starting to boot the OS. I've seen this on many boards. You cannot access BIOS by constantly hitting DEL key even when there is no picture on screen?


----------



## pompss

hi guys
i own asus rampage 5 edition 10 .
My temps are vrm 47c and pch 50c in idle

Seems a little to high ? or its normal.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> hi guys
> i own asus rampage 5 edition 10 .
> My temps are vrm 47c and pch 50c in idle
> 
> Seems a little to high ? or its normal.


There is probably a thread somewhere here on OCN that caters to that specific board. This thread is for the Rampage IV Black ed MB.
But the question you ask is nominal so I'll give it a go. Note that I do not have your board as I have an Asus Rampage IV Black Ed.

A few questions first.
1. Are you on air or water cooling?
2. What air or water cooling set up are you using?
3. What is your CPU?
4. Are you OCing the CPU? If so what are you running at right now?
5. What are your ambient temps for the room the computer is in?

Right now I can only give you a semi educated guess on one scenario. If you are running at stock speeds and you are on air those temps should be fine. If you are watercooling then those temps seem a little high, not much but a little high. But it would reason that there is a good chance you are OCing your CPU because why else would you buy a Rampage board? With that in mind we would need more info.

But it might suit you better if you ask that same question with the info I said you would need on this Rampage V Edition 10 board here on OCN.


----------



## Kimir

There is indeed a R5E thread, that cover the R5E10 as well.


----------



## Fliwatuet

I will get my RIVBE tomorrow. Is there anything I need to know, before installing?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fliwatuet*
> 
> I will get my RIVBE tomorrow. Is there anything I need to know, before installing?


Read the instruction manual. If you have any problems refer to the manual before asking. If you can't find the answer then ask. The manual has a lot of info in it and it is easy to miss something. The table of contents is really helpful in locating something you need help with.
Also do not use the preset OC options in the bios, except for XMP. You have to set XMP for the system to read and use your RAM at its rated specs. OTOH you could also set all the parameters manually. XMP is easier.... The preset OC options in the bios do not work, at least as far as anything I have ever heard is no one has got them to work. Except maybe one or two settings when using LN2.


----------



## dboythagr8

I know this thread is pretty much dead, but I want to ask opinions on some RAM to use in my board. I've recently been having some blue screen issues, and RAM or memory management is mentioned each time. It dawned on me that I'm still using *DDR3 1600* RAM from my P67 motherboard back in 2011. I don't plan to upgrade until Skylake-X, and frankly for gaming the 4930k is doing just fine. I'd like to stretch my legs a bit with this in the meantime, and so I'm curious for RAM suggestions. Thanks for any help.


----------



## Shadowarez

I use the corsair dominator platinum 64 GB kit worked flawlessly since ivy-e 4960x dropped.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I know this thread is pretty much dead, but I want to ask opinions on some RAM to use in my board. I've recently been having some blue screen issues, and RAM or memory management is mentioned each time. It dawned on me that I'm still using *DDR3 1600* RAM from my P67 motherboard back in 2011. I don't plan to upgrade until Skylake-X, and frankly for gaming the 4930k is doing just fine. I'd like to stretch my legs a bit with this in the meantime, and so I'm curious for RAM suggestions. Thanks for any help.


RAM is relatively inexpensive these days compared to what it was 1 - 2 years ago. I use Trident X 2133 and it has worked great for almost a year and a half now.
The least expensive was at this link Newegg
But they have the Ripjaws X for about $10 less on Amazon here. Though I got an alert for the same thing for $7 cheaper on Jet.com. The Ripjaws has slightly higher timings at 11-13-13-31 when compared to the Trident X timings of 9-11-11-31. I would go ahead and pay the extra $12 and get the Trident X.
If you wanted to go the route of at least 4 sticks to take advantage of the quad channel this board supports you could go either 4 sticks of 4gb each for about the same price or double that for 4 sticks of 8gb each.

As a comparison when I got my Trident X (4 sticks 32 gb total) it was about $140 for two sticks.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> RAM is relatively inexpensive these days compared to what it was 1 - 2 years ago. I use Trident X 2133 and it has worked great for almost a year and a half now.
> The least expensive was at this link Newegg
> But they have the Ripjaws X for about $10 less on Amazon here. Though I got an alert for the same thing for $7 cheaper on Jet.com. The Ripjaws has slightly higher timings at 11-13-13-31 when compared to the Trident X timings of 9-11-11-31. I would go ahead and pay the extra $12 and get the Trident X.
> If you wanted to go the route of at least 4 sticks to take advantage of the quad channel this board supports you could go either 4 sticks of 4gb each for about the same price or double that for 4 sticks of 8gb each.
> 
> As a comparison when I got my Trident X (4 sticks 32 gb total) it was about $140 for two sticks.


Thanks for the quick response! I found a set of TridentX on NewEgg for $209. Rated at 2400, 10-12-12-31 Cas 10. I think I'm going to watch these and get them sometime this month. I've been stuck on 16GB of slow RAM since 2011, want to step it up a bit.

Did you have to do any additional work in BIOS to get your RAM to run at 2133?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Thanks for the quick response! I found a set of TridentX on NewEgg for $209. Rated at 2400, 10-12-12-31 Cas 10. I think I'm going to watch these and get them sometime this month. I've been stuck on 16GB of slow RAM since 2011, want to step it up a bit.
> 
> Did you have to do any additional work in BIOS to get your RAM to run at 2133?


Just set it to XMP in the bios and you should be all set!

Consequently there is no real difference in performance with DDR3 on anything higher than 1866mhz, but some say that 2133mhz is the sweet spot..


----------



## Mega Man

1 that is completely false
2 please don't use xmp. Use it as a base line, manually set the timings.

Several kits (not all) set your imc (to tired atm to remember the abrieviation) volts way way high (2.5 and some even higher


----------



## Kimir

That's the VSA (vccsa) voltage you are referring too, and you are right.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@dboythagr8 I think XMP would work great for you for now, at least until you learn a little more about the settings in your bios. If you got the Trident X 2133mhz then your settings would be fine. I can attest to that as that what my RAM is and all four sticks run great on XMP so far (my vccsa is at 1.12).
As far as the differences in the higher speed DDR3 RAM, I'd say to look it up and see for yourself. There are a few articles on tests done to see if there is any real difference and every thing I have read said there is a slight improvement but nothing that makes any real difference in performance. From what I read that is not the case with DDR4 RAM, but that is not for this board.


----------



## Kimir

2133 is also what I'm sticking at, only because 2400 is buggy and 2600/2666 and higher needs to be used with strap 125, which is not what I do for everyday use.
But hey, 2133 c8-10-10-21 1T is plenty fast.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> 2133 is also what I'm sticking at, only because 2400 is buggy and 2600/2666 and higher needs to be used with strap 125, which is not what I do for everyday use.
> But hey, 2133 c8-10-10-21 1T is plenty fast.


What RAM are you using and are those manual timings or set by XMP?


----------



## Laithan

IMO - You'll notice the difference in the RAM speed if:

(1) You are using a synthetic benchmark
(2) You are using a RAMDISK
(3) Some PRO apps like maybe Photoshop might shave some seconds

Just about everything else you won't notice a difference. It won't really give you more FPS in games...(depending on what is being compared but for the most part)


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What RAM are you using and are those manual timings or set by XMP?


I'm using the G.Skill Trident X 2600 C10-12-12-31, I'm not using XMP as I need no more than 0.840v vccsa and the profiles set 1.2v.


----------



## dboythagr8

Alright, I'll go down to 2133. Want the least amount of problems as possible.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Alright, I'll go down to 2133. Want the least amount of problems as possible.


You might not have any issues with higher RAM speeds but it will take some tweaking to get the faster RAM to run correctly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I'm using the G.Skill Trident X 2600 C10-12-12-31, I'm not using XMP as I need no more than 0.840v vccsa and the profiles set 1.2v.


How much does vccsa play into stability when OCing the cpu?


----------



## Fliwatuet

Hey there!

My new/used RIVBE is running just fine and stable. Now I want to overclock the CPU and the RAM (32GB DDR3 1600). Do you know any good tuts on how to overclock that beast? Thanks for any links!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fliwatuet*
> 
> Hey there!
> 
> My new/used RIVBE is running just fine and stable. Now I want to overclock the CPU and the RAM (32GB DDR3 1600). Do you know any good tuts on how to overclock that beast? Thanks for any links!


Everyone has different things they like to try when OCing their system. For you I think to start you should stick with the basics and when you feel comfortable enough go deeper.

First things first, what CPU and RAM are you using?

For that matter it might be a good idea to list your rig in your sig. It takes some time to fill everything out but it is well worth it so others do not have to keep asking the same questions over and over and you do not have to post the same answers over and over.

One last thing, do you have XMP enabled?

Here are some things you should read over to get a better understanding of what is in your bios.
ASUS RAMPAGE IV Extreme OC guide, I know this is for the Extreme version of our MB but it still works for you to get a better understanding.

OCN.NET ASUS Rampage IV Extreme Overclocking Guide This will also help in understanding and help with OCing this board.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fliwatuet*
> 
> Hey there!
> 
> My new/used RIVBE is running just fine and stable. Now I want to overclock the CPU and the RAM (32GB DDR3 1600). Do you know any good tuts on how to overclock that beast? Thanks for any links!


*https://rog.asus.com/articles/overclocking/memory-overclocking-guide-for-rampage-iv-black-edition-beginner-to-advanced/*

*https://rog.asus.com/articles/overclocking/video-overclocking-guide-rampage-iv-black-edition-and-i7-4960x/*
*
http://overclocking.guide/x79-rampage-iv-extreme-black-edition/*

Here is some content to check over.


----------



## Kimir

There is some fine content on this very thread and that one too: http://www.overclock.net/t/1151946/official-asus-rog-rampage-iv-x79-owners-club


----------



## Joxer

Hello Everyone!

So, I have some questions mainly about the updated driver pack and the stability.

Specs:
- CPU - Intel i7-3930K OC to (102 or 45)
- Motherboard - Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
- Bios - Modded 801
- Memory - G.Skill PC3-12800 16GB (4x4GB Quad Channel)
- SSD - Samsung 512GB 840 Pro
- Graphics Card - EVGA GTX 970
- OS - Windows 10 Pro

There are kind of 2 parts to this. I will try to explain them the best I can.

1.) I have had a stable system for a while now. Until not to long ago I noticed it would go into standby but when I would wake up the system the tower and such would turn on, but I would get no video. Pulled my harddrive and tried a new install of Windows and I get the same problems. In the past my experience has been that this is due to an outdated Intel Management Engine driver. Looked around and couldn't find anything newer than those from Asus.

2.) This brings me to the second part. In my search I came across this thread and the file with all the latest drivers and modded Bios rounded up in one. Tried to install the chipset, I got a BSOD. After some time I found I had to install the Chipset and IME software before Windows could install its own drivers through Windows Update and before I installed the Nvidia drivers. For the most part Standby now works most of the time, BUT in the few days I have had this setup running I have already had one BSOD.

Does anyone have any insight on what I maybe doing wrong or what is wrong in general. I have loved this board and has been one of the most stable builds I have put together. Out of desperation thinking this was a Windows 10 incompatibility I did try the Intel software on a fresh install of Windows 8.1 Pro as well and got the same BSOD issues.

I did notice the Asus Chipset Software says it is for Clients and the one included in the driver pack says Servers. Does this have anything to do with it?

Thanks for any help. I know this is an old platform now but I hope there are still enough of you guys out there running this awesome board to help me out with their own experiences.


----------



## Shadowarez

Well I use the drivers off the site Station Drivers for chipset and edit since I'm using a raided pair of Samsung 840's I refuse to install win. 10 on my machine. I'm still waiting for a bios modded or official with nvme support.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Well I use the drivers off the site station drivers for chipset and edit since I'm using a raided pair of Samsung 840's I refuse to install win. 10 on my machine. I'm still waiting for a bios modded or official with nvme support.


From my understanding This board does have NVME support. There have been a few people on here that have added an NVME drive through a PCIE adapter and it worked great. on Windows 10. At least I believe they were using windows 10.


----------



## Shadowarez

Iv seen it done with 8.1 but I still won't budge I seen a petition online that even raja was a part of to bring at least better nvme support to x79 but I guess 10k votes isn't enough to warrant it. I'm looking into a Intel 750 or a 960 pro but waiting to see if those pcie card adapters will work or if there will be a drawback from using a adapter.

It's time to replace my aging 840 raid 0 it's servers me well for a few years I'll repurpose them for my ark server once I get a good replacement.


----------



## dive819

Hey Guys,

My RIVBE board recently started losing its bios settings after the computer is disconnected from a power source.

Has anyone experience this issue? Could it be the CMOS Battery? I have read that it may not be the issue with newer boards as bios settings are stored in non-volatile memory and are not reliant on the battery.

I have no idea where the jumper chip is on this board or anything too specific. Should I go ahead and change the battery anyway? Is there any fix for this?

Thanks!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dive819*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> My RIVBE board recently started losing its bios settings after the computer is disconnected from a power source.
> 
> Has anyone experience this issue? Could it be the CMOS Battery? I have read that it may not be the issue with newer boards as bios settings are stored in non-volatile memory and are not reliant on the battery.
> 
> I have no idea where the jumper chip is on this board or anything too specific. Should I go ahead and change the battery anyway? Is there any fix for this?
> 
> Thanks!


I'd change the battery. I believe that has an effect on if your bios settings get reset every time you remove the power.


----------



## dive819

I'll probably give it the try, it seems to be the only option at this point, and it's only a few bucks. Thanks!


----------



## Kimir

Yup, common symptom of dead cmos battery.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dive819*
> 
> I'll probably give it the try, it seems to be the only option at this point, and it's only a few bucks. Thanks!


Let us know the results!


----------



## monuk

this EZ plug i know you need to connect it when you have more than one Gpu as i have but what if your using pci cards ? only says connect if multiple gpus are connected in the manual thats it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monuk*
> 
> this EZ plug i know you need to connect it when you have more than one Gpu as i have but what if your using pci cards ? only says connect if multiple gpus are connected in the manual thats it.


What EZ plug? What page in the manual is this referenced at? If you're talking about the SLI cable, then yes you do need to use this with 2 video cards (at least to use them effectively)..

Please clarify what you mean by "what if you're using pci cards"?


----------



## monuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What EZ plug? What page in the manual is this referenced at? If you're talking about the SLI cable, then yes you do need to use this with 2 video cards (at least to use them effectively)..
> 
> Please clarify what you mean by "what if you're using pci cards"?


its the molex plug at the bottom of the mb and page 1-48 of the manual its for extra power to multiple gpu cards , just wondering is it worth plugging in if you have pcie cards plugged in, cards i have are a sb zxr and a inertek 5 port usb card with rear power that supply's the rear usbs and thats connected. already connected the EZ plug as well as i have been having ac drop outs even after the psu has been changed as my old one was doing the same ,even swapped the surge protector as well, clutching at straws thats why i asked about the ez plug as i have not used it since i was sli back in the days of the A8N32-SLI mb and 7800gtx lol ;(


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monuk*
> 
> its the molex plug at the bottom of the mb and page 1-48 of the manual its for extra power to multiple gpu cards , just wondering is it worth plugging in if you have pcie cards plugged in, cards i have are a sb zxr and a inertek 5 port usb card with rear power that supply's the rear usbs and thats connected. already connected the EZ plug as well as i have been having ac drop outs even after the psu has been changed as my old one was doing the same ,even swapped the surge protector as well, clutching at straws thats why i asked about the ez plug as i have not used it since i was sli back in the days of the A8N32-SLI mb and 7800gtx lol ;(


Plug that in if you're running a couple of high voltage power hungry cards like the 980ti Kingpins or the like. I plug mine in for one Titan XP just because I have the cable readily available.


----------



## monuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Plug that in if you're running a couple of high voltage power hungry cards like the 980ti Kingpins or the like. I plug mine in for one Titan XP just because I have the cable readily available.


vague is the info on ez plug at best, i know i don't need it it just got me thinking about that plug so i found a molex extension so i hooked it up might by a black braided one now if i am leaving it in


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

So my computer randomly froze and after restarting I noticed some USB devices not working (USB 3.0) ... in device manager it shows:








USB xHCI Compliant Host Controller

This device cannot start. (Code 10)

{Operation Failed}
The request operation was unsuccessful.

Any idea how to fix this ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

First, do you have the latest bios? 0701 is basically what everyone recommends as 0801 only added the ability to install and use up to 128gb of RAM.

If that doesn't work try uninstall the drivers and letting windows reinstall them. Then I would recommend doing a windows start up repair. If that does not work I would try and contact ASUS support.

EDIT: Also double check all your power connections and make sure your PSU is not failing you.....


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> First, do you have the latest bios? 0701 is basically what everyone recommends as 0801 only added the ability to install and use up to 128gb of RAM.
> 
> If that doesn't work try uninstall the drivers and letting windows reinstall them. Then I would recommend doing a windows start up repair. If that does not work I would try and contact ASUS support.
> 
> EDIT: Also double check all your power connections and make sure your PSU is not failing you.....


I am using the latest BIOS as far as I can tell (will check later as it's 2am) but the rest I have checked already ... windows tells me the latest driver is installed when updating ... when uninstalling completely and then reinstalling it gives me the same result of this 1 device that doesn't want to work with me

Could the PSU really be the issue ? ... it's basically a brand new RM1000i ... How would you advise I test it ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

My rig hasn't missed a beat in over 2 years LoooooL


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I am using the latest BIOS as far as I can tell (will check later as it's 2am) but the rest I have checked already ... windows tells me the latest driver is installed when updating ... when uninstalling completely and then reinstalling it gives me the same result of this 1 device that doesn't want to work with me
> 
> Could the PSU really be the issue ? ... it's basically a brand new RM1000i ... How would you advise I test it ?


Did you try doing a repair on your windows installation?

There is a chance you have some bent pins under the CPU. These are hard to check and even more difficult to set in place. I had an issue with bent pins that were affecting my RAM but I was able to set them back in place.

Double check all your connections on the MB and ensure that nothing else is coming apart or bent.

I doubt the PSU is the issue but you never know. You would need a PSU tester to check out the voltages. I got a cheap one (less that $10 on Amazon) a couple of years ago but it shows voltage readings.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Did you try doing a repair on your windows installation?
> 
> There is a chance you have some bent pins under the CPU. These are hard to check and even more difficult to set in place. I had an issue with bent pins that were affecting my RAM but I was able to set them back in place.
> 
> Double check all your connections on the MB and ensure that nothing else is coming apart or bent.
> 
> I doubt the PSU is the issue but you never know. You would need a PSU tester to check out the voltages. I got a cheap one (less that $10 on Amazon) a couple of years ago but it shows voltage readings.


Definitely not bent pins, I would have noticed sooner as I have had this system built for a while already and this just started 2 days ago...

Checked connections before leaving for work this morning, everything was good and dandy, will do the repair when I get home and let you know


----------



## RX-ShortFuse

This is a computer I built a few years ago.
I've had bios go crazy, not sure why.
Something that has worked for me in the past, start bios 2 see what happens, if problem still there write 801 bios to Bios 1 then 2 then back to Bios 701.


----------



## Madmaxneo

It seems my AI suite 3 may be causing some issues with my system. I have noticed that my CPU is always running at it's max turbo speed of 3.9ghz. I could find nothing that would set it that high so I assumed it had to do with the MB. I just recently noticed that AI suite 3 has my ratio set at 39. So I am not sure if that is why my PC is always running at 3.9ghz or not. I want to uninstall AI suite 3 but I have no other way of setting the fan curves for my CPU fan and two other fans in my case.
Does anyone have any good suggestions for basic software for this? I need something reliable and it really only needs to set my fan curves for like 3 fans.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It seems my AI suite 3 may be causing some issues with my system. I have noticed that my CPU is always running at it's max turbo speed of 3.9ghz. I could find nothing that would set it that high so I assumed it had to do with the MB. I just recently noticed that AI suite 3 has my ratio set at 39. So I am not sure if that is why my PC is always running at 3.9ghz or not. I want to uninstall AI suite 3 but I have no other way of setting the fan curves for my CPU fan and two other fans in my case.
> Does anyone have any good suggestions for basic software for this? I need something reliable and it really only needs to set my fan curves for like 3 fans.


Vender software has caused me more problems than I will ever have time to explain!!!!!!!


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Vender software has caused me more problems than I will ever have time to explain!!!!!!!


Ditto.. I don't install 95% of it.. The only thing I have installed is the direct BIOS app and the ramdisk (which I am removing).


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Ditto.. I don't install 95% of it.. The only thing I have installed is the direct BIOS app and the ramdisk (which I am removing).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Vender software has caused me more problems than I will ever have time to explain!!!!!!!


AI Suite has worked well for me so far and has not caused me any issues, except for the fact that I was using an updated version that was not specifically designed for this board and the USB boost did not work at all (no biggie).
AI suite was not the cause of the problems I have been having. My system still runs at max turbo all the time. I was having trouble with my screens going black also and had to do a hard restart to get my system back. That problem seems to have been corrected but it was not because of uninstalling AI suite. I am still in need of a good software fan controller where I can set the fan curve.

If no one knows where I can get the best version of AI Suite 3 for this board can anyone recommend a good software fan controller where I can set my own fan curves?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> AI Suite has worked well for me so far and has not caused me any issues, except for the fact that I was using an updated version that was not specifically designed for this board and the USB boost did not work at all (no biggie).
> AI suite was not the cause of the problems I have been having. My system still runs at max turbo all the time. I was having trouble with my screens going black also and had to do a hard restart to get my system back. That problem seems to have been corrected but it was not because of uninstalling AI suite. I am still in need of a good software fan controller where I can set the fan curve.
> 
> If no one knows where I can get the best version of AI Suite 3 for this board can anyone recommend a good software fan controller where I can set my own fan curves?


Get a aquaero!!!?????


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Get a aquaero!!!?????


First off not enough money on hand to get one, but I might have enough in a few months at best. Secondly I queried the aquaero thread for what that could do for me and no one answered.

But I still need a software solution.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> First off not enough money on hand to get one, but I might have enough in a few months at best. Secondly I queried the aquaero thread for what that could do for me and no one answered.
> 
> But I still need a software solution.


Speedfan


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Speedfan


I have that and have looked at it, but it seems that I have to set the fan curve for every core. I know I can set it for a single core and it should be good as they all generally follow the same temps. But I have had it in the past where one or two could be almost 8 to 10 deg hotter than the others.

Is there a way to make it so I only have to set the fan curve for one core and the others are linked to that?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have that and have looked at it, but it seems that I have to set the fan curve for every core. I know I can set it for a single core and it should be good as they all generally follow the same temps. But I have had it in the past where one or two could be almost 8 to 10 deg hotter than the others.
> 
> Is there a way to make it so I only have to set the fan curve for one core and the others are linked to that?


It's normal for one core to run hotter than the others. Not sure if you can tie the fan curve to a specific core, but there's really no need to. What matters is the overall die temp, not the temperature of any specific worker.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Speedfan
> 
> 
> 
> I have that and have looked at it, but it seems that I have to set the fan curve for every core. I know I can set it for a single core and it should be good as they all generally follow the same temps. But I have had it in the past where one or two could be almost 8 to 10 deg hotter than the others.
> 
> Is there a way to make it so I only have to set the fan curve for one core and the others are linked to that?
Click to expand...

we answered you did not like it, not to be rude but maybe you should do your own research ?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> First off not enough money on hand to get one, but I might have enough in a few months at best. Secondly I queried the aquaero thread for what that could do for me and no one answered.
> 
> But I still need a software solution.


Aquaero is a software and hardware solution that can do so much to monitor and control temps in pc's. can set fan curvea, pump curves etc!!!


----------



## Mega Man

I would argue. It is a hardware solution, the software is optional but useful


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would argue. It is a hardware solution, the software is optional but useful


You just feel like arguing tonight??? Yes you can use hardware without the software but why would you want to punish your self like that??? Sheeese


----------



## Mega Man

Not what I ment. The software is not needed, and the aq can be run independently. Esp after set up. Many people watch what software are on the PC and slow it down at startup.

Imo my fav part of the aquaero is the lack of need of a software. It is a computer, that runs your cooling independent of your pc


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> It's normal for one core to run hotter than the others. Not sure if you can tie the fan curve to a specific core, but there's really no need to. What matters is the overall die temp, not the temperature of any specific worker.


In the setup for speedfan a fan curve is specifically tied to each core. Right now I have a fan curve set for Core 0. I was wondering if there was a way to link the one curve to all 6 cores but I see no option for that. I have also noticed there does not seem to be an option for it to start with windows, which is preferable to me.

Either way this seems to be working fine for now. Though oddly enough I did not have the same options for controlling my Core temps like in the instructions. I had to set my PWM Mode to Smart Fan IV as it did not have the option from the video I had watched (a couple weeks ago)..


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Try Aisuite3_1.01.59& DIP5_1.03.90 (2016/12/29)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> AI Suite has worked well for me so far and has not caused me any issues, except for the fact that I was using an updated version that was not specifically designed for this board and the USB boost did not work at all (no biggie).
> AI suite was not the cause of the problems I have been having. My system still runs at max turbo all the time. I was having trouble with my screens going black also and had to do a hard restart to get my system back. That problem seems to have been corrected but it was not because of uninstalling AI suite. I am still in need of a good software fan controller where I can set the fan curve.
> 
> If no one knows where I can get the best version of AI Suite 3 for this board can anyone recommend a good software fan controller where I can set my own fan curves?


Try Aisuite3_1.01.59& DIP5_1.03.90 (2016/12/29)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Try Aisuite3_1.01.59& DIP5_1.03.90 (2016/12/29)
> Try Aisuite3_1.01.59& DIP5_1.03.90 (2016/12/29)


Cool!
One question though, is that for this board?


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Cool!
> One question though, is that for this board?


No, they stopped making utilities specifically for this motherboard for a couple of years now. Everything in this works though (it doesn't come with the extras like the usb boost or the remote control apps).. and possibly the auto tune overclock might not (haven't tried it.. I manually overclock).

Give it a try.. the Fan Expert and EPU controls work perfectly.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> No, they stopped making utilities specifically for this motherboard for a couple of years now. Everything in this works though (it doesn't come with the extras like the usb boost or the remote control apps).. and possibly the auto tune overclock might not (haven't tried it.. I manually overclock).
> 
> Give it a try.. the Fan Expert and EPU controls work perfectly.


Cool, that is basically all I need. Thanks again!

I am not sure if my issue has stopped. I haven't seen it in a couple of days and I left my PC running for a day and a half. But I haven't played any graphics intensive games so it could be that. The last time both my screens went black I was in the middle of a game of the Witcher 3, which was the first time it happened in a graphics intensive game. Then after I did the hard restart the screens went black again almost immediately then again about an hour later. Since then nothing. But, I did finally uninstall the ROG Game First 3 (though it had been shut down/disabled). Not sure if that was the issue.

Consequently I did use DDU and reinstalled the graphics driver directly from nvidia about a week ago. If you did not know I did this because in event viewer I found the repeated error of the nvidia display driver has stopped responding and has recovered, though my screen would still be black. I contacted EVGA and they asked me to try the video card in another PC and I can't do that because I have no other PC that can handle my GTX 980 (PSU limits). Though to be honest I am not entirely sure it is my graphics card. Because the last few times the screens went black I double checked and there were no nvidia driver errors in event viewer. In fact there was nothing to indicate there was a problem, except for the error reporting the unexpected shutdown.

Any ideas?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Cool, that is basically all I need. Thanks again!
> 
> I am not sure if my issue has stopped. I haven't seen it in a couple of days and I left my PC running for a day and a half. But I haven't played any graphics intensive games so it could be that. The last time both my screens went black I was in the middle of a game of the Witcher 3, which was the first time it happened in a graphics intensive game. Then after I did the hard restart the screens went black again almost immediately then again about an hour later. Since then nothing. But, I did finally uninstall the ROG Game First 3 (though it had been shut down/disabled). Not sure if that was the issue.
> 
> Consequently I did use DDU and reinstalled the graphics driver directly from nvidia about a week ago. If you did not know I did this because in event viewer I found the repeated error of the nvidia display driver has stopped responding and has recovered, though my screen would still be black. I contacted EVGA and they asked me to try the video card in another PC and I can't do that because I have no other PC that can handle my GTX 980 (PSU limits). Though to be honest I am not entirely sure it is my graphics card. Because the last few times the screens went black I double checked and there were no nvidia driver errors in event viewer. In fact there was nothing to indicate there was a problem, except for the error reporting the unexpected shutdown.
> 
> Any ideas?


is the GPU overclocked if so you will get this error when it crashes??


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> is the GPU overclocked if so you will get this error when it crashes??


That was my first thought. So I removed all OCing, but that was well over a month ago. But the issue still occurs.


----------



## Mega Man

Anyone seen @reev3r. Kinda worried about him. Fearing the worst


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Anyone seen @reev3r. Kinda worried about him. Fearing the worst


I used to talk to him quite often but the last time we had talked was back in July of last year. I messaged him but he has not been logged into OC.net since the beginning of October. I do hope he is ok.


----------



## smrdel

Hello all

I have had one of these motherboards for a few years now in conjunction with a i7 4820k. I have never overclocked this CPU but I am playing around with settings at the moment to get some more life out of my setup before upgrading. I am thinking of upgrading in about another 12 -18 months. I think i have it at OC to 4.5GHz. I am new to OC so need some guidance to see if i am doing things correctly. I am sure its probably already been talked about somewhere in this post but may take a while to read through all the pages to find it !

The other thing is I am wondering if its worth upgrading to the i7 4930k for about $300 AUD ?

My Current PC setup is

i7 4820k CPU
Asus Rampage IV Black Edition ( OBVIOUSLY!)
4 x 8 GB 2400Mhz Corsair Dominator DDR3 RAM - Recently upgraded from 2 x 8GB
2 x ASUS Matrix GTX 980 GPU
256 GB Samsung 850 Pro SSD - Windows/Programs Drive
2TB WD Black Drive - Games Drive
Windows 10 Pro - 64 Bit.

I do a fair bit of gaming and basic video editing - I have not had any problems running any games without the OC. Maybe its not even worth considering doing ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Anyone seen @reev3r. Kinda worried about him. Fearing the worst


I am friends with him on Steam and I noticed he was online a day ago. I messaged him but no response as of yet.


----------



## Mega Man

Here is hoping


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey guys

I have noticed that the heatsink above the CPU socket is getting really hot ... as in, too hot to touch ... is this normal ? ... I have good airflow, and I have voltage set to auto ...

What could be causing it ? ...

Also, for those of you running 4.5ghz+, what is your voltage set to ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> I have noticed that the heatsink above the CPU socket is getting really hot ... as in, too hot to touch ... is this normal ? ... I have good airflow, and I have voltage set to auto ...
> 
> What could be causing it ? ...
> 
> Also, for those of you running 4.5ghz+, what is your voltage set to ?


I believe you are talking about the heatsink over the northbridge. Both the northbridge and southbridge tend to get hot at times especially when hitting an OC like yours. It is highly recommend that you add both the norhtbridge and southbridge to your cooling loop because keeping those cool can help with keeping the system stable and increasing the life of your OC'd system. I would recommend backing your OC off some to decrease temps for now until you can get those implemented into a waterloop.

Here are a couple of suggestions for a waterblock set:
Bitspower nIckel plated full block

XPSC set

I have the XPSC set but was never able to implement it due to other issues with my MB and overall setup. The Bitspower set covers both the CPU and northbridge bit it is about $100 more than the XPSC one.

BTW, what are your voltages set to?
A good limit for vcore is 1.4 at max. anything more than that and you are putting your cpu at a higher risk of failure.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> I have noticed that the heatsink above the CPU socket is getting really hot ... as in, too hot to touch ... is this normal ? ... I have good airflow, and I have voltage set to auto ...
> 
> What could be causing it ? ...
> 
> Also, for those of you running 4.5ghz+, what is your voltage set to ?


too hot to touch means the heatsink is working good. Just need air flow over them. Also you can lower your overclock and volts to help keep it cool. High LLC gets that thing burning too.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I believe you are talking about the heatsink over the northbridge. Both the northbridge and southbridge tend to get hot at times especially when hitting an OC like yours. It is highly recommend that you add both the norhtbridge and southbridge to your cooling loop because keeping those cool can help with keeping the system stable and increasing the life of your OC'd system. I would recommend backing your OC off some to decrease temps for now until you can get those implemented into a waterloop.
> 
> Here are a couple of suggestions for a waterblock set:
> Bitspower nIckel plated full block
> 
> XPSC set
> 
> I have the XPSC set but was never able to implement it due to other issues with my MB and overall setup. The Bitspower set covers both the CPU and northbridge bit it is about $100 more than the XPSC one.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, what are your voltages set to?
> A good limit for vcore is 1.4 at max. anything more than that and you are putting your cpu at a higher risk of failure.


I will definitely be looking at the bitspower block, really like the look of it, pity I can't find a completely see through one like the old EK blocks. (no one seems to have stock)

My voltage on auto is around 1.3v and lower, I really want to find a nice OC guide to get it setup nicely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> too hot to touch means the heatsink is working good. Just need air flow over them. Also you can lower your overclock and volts to help keep it cool. High LLC gets that thing burning too.


I have an AP181 blowing over it, can't think of anything better but I need to change my chassis as I am having issues with it ... I will also check my LLC

Thanks for the advice guys


----------



## supermiguel

Wow didnt know this many people still using the RIV....

Every few months i look up whats available and its very hard for me to justify getting a different mobo and a CPU (3930x)..

I was just thinking about getting that Bitspower ASUS RAMPAGE IV BLACK Water Block Set any of you guys have it? recommend it?

.


----------



## Laithan

The RIVBE is an amazing motherboard and I plan to have this probably longer than I had my 790i Ultra (which was just about 9 years)... There's really no reason to upgrade unless you NEED (and I emphasize NEED) more than 6-8 cores..


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have been having an issue with my screens going black (Hard restart required), normally only when the PC is not being stressed (though it happened once in a Witcher 3 game). I also started to get a BSOD once every few days. I deduced that it was one of three things, My GTX 980 card, My MB (RIVBE), or my PSU. I was finally able to switch out to my 750Ti video card and it seemed like that was the problem. But a week later.....

Update: Well I think I can now rule out it was my GTX 980. Because the same black screens finally happened on my 750Ti. It took a week but it still happened, though no BSOD yet. So now we are down to either my MB or my PSU.
Deductive reasoning leans more towards the PSU because it tends to happen more often with the GTX 980, which consequently draws more power. But it happens more often when the PC resources are barely being used, meaning when the system is less taxed out.

Some might say it could be the nvidia drivers. It is a possibility but if it was I would think there would be more reported cases and I have found nothing similar anywhere else.
The only way to find out if it is my MB is to get another x79 board and see is my system runs ok on that. But use would be temporary and I can't find anything cheaper than $160 for an x79 board.
I do not have another PSU except for an old 450 watt psu but that does not have enough connectors for this board and all it;s peripherals.
Are there any trouble shooting steps I can take to possibly help narrow down what may be causing the issue?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Wow didnt know this many people still using the RIV....
> 
> Every few months i look up whats available and its very hard for me to justify getting a different mobo and a CPU (3930x)..
> 
> I was just thinking about getting that Bitspower ASUS RAMPAGE IV BLACK Water Block Set any of you guys have it? recommend it?
> 
> .


I just recommended that block to @Emissary of Pain a few posts ago!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> The RIVBE is an amazing motherboard and I plan to have this probably longer than I had my 790i Ultra (which was just about 9 years)... There's really no reason to upgrade unless you NEED (and I emphasize NEED) more than 6-8 cores..


Well if the issue I posted above turns out to be my MB and ASUS can't fix it, I will be looking to upgrade to a newer system. My MB is still under warranty but they have already told me if they are unable to fix the issue that they do not have any replacement boards to offer me. They would of course offer something else, probably store credit that I could apply to a new system.


----------



## Duke976

I would have kept the RIVBE if the 1st PCI slot closer to the cpu work as intended. That damn PCI slot was stuck at 8X. No amount of bios update work and when i checked the CPU pins they were all intact.

That would have been one sweet deal since i was able to get it for $199 with $50 rebate included.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> I would have kept the RIVBE if the 1st PCI slot closer to the cpu work as intended. That damn PCI slot was stuck at 8X. No amount of bios update work and when i checked the CPU pins they were all intact.
> 
> That would have been one sweet deal since i was able to get it for $199 with $50 rebate included.


I'm in sort of a similar situation (maybe the same) with PCI-e bandwidth/lanes (although it honestly makes zero difference in performance). I have (2) GPUs in SLI and a PCI-e RAID controller. I'm using the TOP PCI-e closest to the CPU, skip a slot to the next PCI-e for my GPUs and then the bottom most PCI-e slot is where the RAID controller is.

If we do the math.. my CPU has 40 PCI-e 3.0 lanes.. If we took 16 for GPU#1 and 16 for GPU#2 that's 32 lanes leaving 8 lanes remaining for the PCI-e RAID card. My RAID card however is only a PCI-e 2.0 4x card... This is the equivalent of only 2 PCI-e 3.0 lanes... So I should still have 6 PCI-e 3.0 lanes left over if we were to count that way (I am sure there's some other way this needs to be counted but IDK).

So anyway in theory there's PLENTY of PCI-e lanes to support the FULL bandwidth of all 3 of my PCI-e devices right...but yet my 2nd GPU doesn't register as 16x, _*only 8x..*_.. and IDK why..

There's no loss in performance though really.. there's not much going over the PCI-e lanes anyway with an SLI bridge and even the most modern GPU hasn't exceeded PCI-e 2.0 16x (equivalent to PCI-e 3.0 8x).

I can't change PCI-e slots because of a custom water loop (both GPUs are blocked also) but I wonder if there's any tweaks..


----------



## Mega Man

I think the Freezing is due to windows, it only started after windows update.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I'm in sort of a similar situation (maybe the same) with PCI-e bandwidth/lanes (although it honestly makes zero difference in performance). I have (2) GPUs in SLI and a PCI-e RAID controller. I'm using the TOP PCI-e closest to the CPU, skip a slot to the next PCI-e for my GPUs and then the bottom most PCI-e slot is where the RAID controller is.
> 
> If we do the math.. my CPU has 40 PCI-e 3.0 lanes.. If we took 16 for GPU#1 and 16 for GPU#2 that's 32 lanes leaving 8 lanes remaining for the PCI-e RAID card. My RAID card however is only a PCI-e 2.0 4x card... This is the equivalent of only 2 PCI-e 3.0 lanes... So I should still have 6 PCI-e 3.0 lanes left over if we were to count that way (I am sure there's some other way this needs to be counted but IDK).
> 
> So anyway in theory there's PLENTY of PCI-e lanes to support the FULL bandwidth of all 3 of my PCI-e devices right...but yet my 2nd GPU doesn't register as 16x, _*only 8x..*_.. and IDK why..
> 
> There's no loss in performance though really.. there's not much going over the PCI-e lanes anyway with an SLI bridge and even the most modern GPU hasn't exceeded PCI-e 2.0 16x (equivalent to PCI-e 3.0 8x).
> 
> I can't change PCI-e slots because of a custom water loop (both GPUs are blocked also) but I wonder if there's any tweaks..


The only slots on this board that support x16 are the first and third PCIE slots.It is on page 1-8 of the manual if you want to look.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I think the Freezing is due to windows, it only started after windows update.


You talkin to me? Hehe, I have always wanted to say that, oddly no opportunity has presented itself in the non digital life...


----------



## Laithan

Indeed, I am using 1 & 3 for GPUs and the RAID in the 4th.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Indeed, I am using 1 & 3 for GPUs and the RAID in the 4th.


Refer to page 1-23. It will tell you that for the SLi to work 16 x 16 on both 1 and 3 slot. The raid must be in slot 2. Hope that helps


----------



## Mega Man

OK I see the problem, now please note I am going completely from memory.

Iirc your max ability with cards (gpus) is x16,x8,x8,x8 or ,16,x8,x16 (assuming you use the second pcie slot, if you use the last it will be x16,x8,x8)

You will need to use the x1 slots to get what you want or the second pcie slot (for your raid)

Yes the cpu had 40, again from memory iirc actually 44 but the extra 4 [or how ever many there are] are reserved for other things)

But you have to put stuff in the right holes to use the pcie. The third slot is either x16 OR x8 depending on if the fort is occupied

Edit, I got ninjaed


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Trying the first release 0208 bios for the R4BE. But had to add NVMe support to the bios to get the Intel 750 to work. I think by the looks of it, I need less voltage for 4.5GHz than 0701 bios that I was using before. 1.3v down to 1.275v, High LLC.

Also stock vcore is a tad lower too.

Have to keep the 0208 bios installed for long while yet to see if it is better. It all started last week when someone was wondering why x79 had slower speeds with NVMe than x99 or z97 and up. So I started modding my bios to see if it helped, then came upon 0208. All in curiosity.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Trying the first release 0208 bios for the R4BE. But had to add NVMe support to the bios to get the Intel 750 to work. I think by the looks of it, I need less voltage for 4.5GHz than 0701 bios that I was using before. 1.3v down to 1.275v, High LLC.
> 
> Also stock vcore is a tad lower too.
> 
> Have to keep the 0208 bios installed for long while yet to see if it is better. It all started last week when someone was wondering why x79 had slower speeds with NVMe than x99 or z97 and up. So I started modding my bios to see if it helped, then came upon 0208. All in curiosity.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Interesting. Have you seen any improvements in anything since using it?

I wonder what was wrong with the 0208 bios for them to upgrade to a newer bios?

Edit: I just realized the earliest release for this board is the 0403 bios.

So where did this 0208 bios come from??


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Trying the first release 0208 bios for the R4BE. But had to add NVMe support to the bios to get the Intel 750 to work. I think by the looks of it, I need less voltage for 4.5GHz than 0701 bios that I was using before. 1.3v down to 1.275v, High LLC.
> 
> Also stock vcore is a tad lower too.
> 
> Have to keep the 0208 bios installed for long while yet to see if it is better. It all started last week when someone was wondering why x79 had slower speeds with NVMe than x99 or z97 and up. So I started modding my bios to see if it helped, then came upon 0208. All in curiosity.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very impressive scores!


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Wow didnt know this many people still using the RIV....
> 
> Every few months i look up whats available and its very hard for me to justify getting a different mobo and a CPU (3930x)..
> 
> I was just thinking about getting that Bitspower ASUS RAMPAGE IV BLACK Water Block Set any of you guys have it? recommend it?
> 
> .


Out of curiosity, do you still use the 4800mm rad space and 80 fans in the PC you built in your sig?


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Out of curiosity, do you still use the 4800mm rad space and 80 fans in the PC you built in your sig?


Yes sir!, but bought a house, got married, got a kid, 2 dogs, and never really completed it, nor updated the hardware, so now i want to upgrade things here and there...


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Trying the first release 0208 bios for the R4BE. But had to add NVMe support to the bios to get the Intel 750 to work. I think by the looks of it, I need less voltage for 4.5GHz than 0701 bios that I was using before. 1.3v down to 1.275v, High LLC.
> 
> Also stock vcore is a tad lower too.
> 
> Have to keep the 0208 bios installed for long while yet to see if it is better. It all started last week when someone was wondering why x79 had slower speeds with NVMe than x99 or z97 and up. So I started modding my bios to see if it helped, then came upon 0208. All in curiosity.


So the newest BIOS of the R4BE does not have NVMe support?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> So the newest BIOS of the R4BE does not have NVMe support?


The pre release bios doesn't, from October 2013.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> The pre release bios doesn't, from October 2013.


How about newer BIOS? like 0801 from 07/2014?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> How about newer BIOS? like 0801 from 07/2014?


0701 and 0801 definitely do support NVMe. No mods.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 0701 and 0801 definitely do support NVMe. No mods.


So if i get my self a Intel 750 or a Samsung 950 with the adapter, just plug it in and go? Any changes that need to be made to the BIOS? also any reason you running an older version of BIOS? just wondering


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> So if i get my self a Intel 750 or a Samsung 950 with the adapter, just plug it in and go? Any changes that need to be made to the BIOS? also any reason you running an older version of BIOS? just wondering


Yes pretty much just install and go. I'm on windows 10. I think windows 7 needs a driver on usb first before installing windows.

Just tryin the 0208 bios as it seems to require less voltage for the same clocks. Mostly testing for now.


----------



## supermiguel

Gotcha gotcha, any recommendations as far as drives go? the intel seems a bit expensive for 400GB, while the samsung 960 EVO is only $129, any difference on the adapters? Amazon has $20 adapters and then those angelbird for like 80$


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Gotcha gotcha, any recommendations as far as drives go? the intel seems a bit expensive for 400GB, while the samsung 960 EVO is only $129, any difference on the adapters? Amazon has $20 adapters and then those angelbird for like 80$


I'm really no expert, but the ASUS Hyper M.2 X4 Mini is the one I know works for sure. I paid $30 for mine, might get the 960 for it later on.

*



*


----------



## supermiguel

Perfect Thanks boss!!!!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Very impressive scores!


Thanks, for x79 it's good.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Interesting. Have you seen any improvements in anything since using it?
> 
> I wonder what was wrong with the 0208 bios for them to upgrade to a newer bios?
> 
> Edit: I just realized the earliest release for this board is the 0403 bios.
> 
> So where did this 0208 bios come from??


Just a little bit lower voltage needed for the same clock. Bios is prerelease, before the board launched retail.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> The RIVBE is an amazing motherboard and I plan to have this probably longer than I had my 790i Ultra (which was just about 9 years)... There's really no reason to upgrade unless you NEED (and I emphasize NEED) more than 6-8 cores..


I want to upgrade primarily for the upgrade in motherboard features. Storage options, USB-C, DD4 etc, have all progressed since our board's release. I'm also getting the itch to upgrade. Been on this system for 2 years or so, and my 4930k is still good for everything. Will take a hard look at Skylake-X though...

Edit: Wait, NVme works on X79?


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I want to upgrade primarily for the upgrade in motherboard features. Storage options, USB-C, DD4 etc, have all progressed since our board's release. I'm also getting the itch to upgrade. Been on this system for 2 years or so, and my 4930k is still good for everything. Will take a hard look at Skylake-X though...
> 
> Edit: Wait, NVme works on X79?


This NVme just made it 10 harder for me to upgrade from x79... now im wondering more if i should add a water block to the board to last longer


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> This NVme just made it 10 harder for me to upgrade from x79... now im wondering more if i should add a water block to the board to last longer


It was my main reason, along with DDR4, of wanting to upgrade to a new platform (Skylake-X). This changes everything. I haven't used the rig in my sig for about 6 months due to me selling off my Titan X OG. I'm trying to hold off until the 1080ti before jumping back in, but not sure if I can wait.

So now that I know NVMe works on X79, that raises a question. I have 3 storage drives in my rig (see sig). My OS is running on the Intel SSD which is 5 years old at this point. If I want to retire that drive, what do I do about my Windows 10 installation? Can I just transfer it to one of my other SSDs? Do I have to buy another key?


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> It was my main reason, along with DDR4, of wanting to upgrade to a new platform (Skylake-X). This changes everything. I haven't used the rig in my sig for about 6 months due to me selling off my Titan X OG. I'm trying to hold off until the 1080ti before jumping back in, but not sure if I can wait.
> 
> So now that I know NVMe works on X79, that raises a question. I have 3 storage drives in my rig (see sig). My OS is running on the Intel SSD which is 5 years old at this point. If I want to retire that drive, what do I do about my Windows 10 installation? Can I just transfer it to one of my other SSDs? Do I have to buy another key?


If you want to do a new installation, when you try to active it will detect a hardware change, i possible will not activate, then you can call an automated activation phone number, and one of the options is hardware change, and they will give you an authorization number to activate windows. So NO you dont need another key


----------



## dboythagr8

I haven't done this before, so sorry for what could be interpreted as basic questions.

What's the best way to get the W10 install onto a different SSD?

My current W10 installation is on the Intel SSD. I want to move it to the faster Samsung SSD. Do I download W10 install onto a USB, and then reformat the Intel SSD?


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I haven't done this before, so sorry for what could be interpreted as basic questions.
> 
> What's the best way to get the W10 install onto a different SSD?
> 
> My current W10 installation is on the Intel SSD. I want to move it to the faster Samsung SSD. Do I download W10 install onto a USB, and then reformat the Intel SSD?


There are some clonning tools out there to clone everything from one drive to another, not sure ill recommend doing this, but if you want to do clean install, then yes you can create a USB Windows 10 installation, boot to it, and then pick your new drive when it asks you where do you want to install windows, then you will need to go to the ASUS site and download all the drivers for windows 10, and install them


----------



## supermiguel

They only made 2 full blocks for this mobo? EK and Bitspower?

edit: Actually you cant even buy the EK any more... So only the Bitspower is available from frozenCPU


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I haven't done this before, so sorry for what could be interpreted as basic questions.
> 
> What's the best way to get the W10 install onto a different SSD?
> 
> My current W10 installation is on the Intel SSD. I want to move it to the faster Samsung SSD. Do I download W10 install onto a USB, and then reformat the Intel SSD?


I'm not recommending this because I haven't tried it but I am pointing out that this software appears to be free.
http://clonezilla.org/show-live-doc-content.php?topic=clonezilla-live/doc/03_Disk_to_disk_clone

Personally I bought Acronis and use that... Well worth every penny I paid...


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I'm not recommending this because I haven't tried it but I am pointing out that this software appears to be free.
> http://clonezilla.org/show-live-doc-content.php?topic=clonezilla-live/doc/03_Disk_to_disk_clone
> 
> Personally I bought Acronis and use that... Well worth every penny I paid...


Thanks. Any thoughts on the Samsung Magician software? Can't you clone with it?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Thanks. Any thoughts on the Samsung Magician software? Can't you clone with it?


No, I think you meant this
http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/samsung_data_migration.html

I also have not used it but typically software that is bundled with a drive has a license to only work with that manufacturer and very well may perform checks to see if the right drives are there and if not, abort. You'd have to check it out and give it a try.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I'm not recommending this because I haven't tried it but I am pointing out that this software appears to be free.
> http://clonezilla.org/show-live-doc-content.php?topic=clonezilla-live/doc/03_Disk_to_disk_clone
> 
> Personally I bought Acronis and use that... Well worth every penny I paid...


I second Acronis. It has saved me from several botched updates & upgrades several times. Worth every penny.

http://www.acronis.com/en-us/personal/computer-backup/


----------



## supermiguel

So this new Z170 and Z270 only have quad core CPUs and 16 pcie lanes? so from x79 the only upgrade is x99?? and even then.. is it even worth it?


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> So this new Z170 and Z270 only have quad core CPUs and 16 pcie lanes? so from x79 the only upgrade is x99?? and even then.. is it even worth it?


From a CPU standpoint, only if you need 10 cores. The platform does offer more modern connectivity options and DDR4 though. That's really the only advantage. I believe the next round of platforms alongside Skylake-X is when Intel will be bringing 6+ cores to the masses.


----------



## Laithan

Honestly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> So this new Z170 and Z270 only have quad core CPUs and 16 pcie lanes? so from x79 the only upgrade is x99?? and even then.. is it even worth it?


Here's my









Worth it from x79 to x99? As a gamer no.. If what you do scales with additional CPU cores then yes. X79 is limited to 6 true cores (although there's a special agent undocumented 8-core Xeon







) As far as I am concerned the x79 isn't outdated at all and will compete with the best it just has the CPU core limitation and no modern drive interfaces just SATA. Memory speed? DDR3 or DDR4? dual, triple, quad channel.. As a gamer you shouldn't care... games don't care much about memory speed. You'll see these differences primarily in benchmarks and applications not gaming. You will see a difference in your wallet though









The Zxxx boards can handle 2XSLI without bottlenecks but the moment you add another PCI-e card to the system the GPUs would drop to half PCI-e bandwidth. This is the only area that needs special attention if SLI is even remotely a possibility AND PCI-e add-in cards could be used (crystal ball time).


----------



## scottiescotsman

Hi guys, this is my first post and what a post I think, here goes.
I bought my Asus Rampage IV Black Edition 2014, and because of my health and loss of work because of it I had to tier the purchases of the rest of my rig. All bought I powered it up and DUD! wont boot. My question is I have a xfx 1250 black edition ps.. do I attach just the 8 pin power connector or do I need to attach the 4 pin as well as some say no.

Thanks for any replies
Steven


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottiescotsman*
> 
> Hi guys, this is my first post and what a post I think, here goes.
> I bought my Asus Rampage IV Black Edition 2014, and because of my health and loss of work because of it I had to tier the purchases of the rest of my rig. All bought I powered it up and DUD! wont boot. My question is I have a xfx 1250 black edition ps.. do I attach just the 8 pin power connector or do I need to attach the 4 pin as well as some say no.
> 
> Thanks for any replies
> Steven


Just the 8pin.


----------



## scottiescotsman

Thanks for your reply









Why do you think it is not posting?

Tried everything


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottiescotsman*
> 
> Hi guys, this is my first post and what a post I think, here goes.
> I bought my Asus Rampage IV Black Edition 2014, and because of my health and loss of work because of it I had to tier the purchases of the rest of my rig. All bought I powered it up and DUD! wont boot. My question is I have a xfx 1250 black edition ps.. do I attach just the 8 pin power connector or do I need to attach the 4 pin as well as some say no.
> 
> Thanks for any replies
> Steven


I had the same exact issue when I first booted up my system. I thought it was my PSU but after some troubleshooting with EVGA the PSU was fine. I then went through some troubleshooting steps with Asus. I did a few different things and I got my system booted and working great.
I assume you are not getting any power indications at all.

First thing to check is to ensure the power switch is in the on position and the safety fuse is engaged/reset.

Second double and triple check all your connections. I would take them out and reinsert every connector (especially anything power related). Make sure the MB power connection is properly seated as this connector can be a bit tricky. This is ultimately what I believe why my system would not start.

Also check and double check your ram to ensure it is all inserted into the proper slots. If anything go down to just two sticks or even one to see if it will boot up.

You should also check to ensure your PSU is working. If it did not come with a test adapter you can use the paper clip method. 



 describing how to do this.

Those are basic troubleshooting steps. You should also go through the manual that came with the board and run through the steps in chapter 1 and 2.

Also one last thing to note. For some reason my system will not boot or work at all when using the ASUS Q connector (page 2-10). I had to connect the wires without the Q connector.


----------



## scottiescotsman

Thanks for the replies. Few things...
#1 I am in touch with ASUS about the problems that I am having.
#2 I have checked the paperclip test as I bought a pre-wired power connector as I needed to leak test my rig.
And when I power it on with the pre-wired connector it powers on first time every time.
I have a xfx 1250 black edition psu if that makes any difference.
So that's what makes me think it is the mb


----------



## supermiguel

Define wont boot? Does it post?? Do u get any lights at all on the mobo? Have u tried pushing the start button on the mobo? What happens??? Do you get the 2 digits indicator?


----------



## Laithan

RIVBE PDF MANUAL

If this helps, check 1.2.4 for the DIMM configurations


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Random question (since I am battling to find a monoblock I like for my RIVBE)

Are the mounting holes for the Power Deliver, CPU and Southbridge in the same position as the RVE ? ... The monoblocks look exactly the same (but I am only judging from EKs website)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have been having an issue with my screens going black (Hard restart required), normally only when the PC is not being stressed (though it happened once in a Witcher 3 game). I also started to get a BSOD once every few days. I deduced that it was one of three things, My GTX 980 card, My MB (RIVBE), or my PSU. I was finally able to switch out to my 750Ti video card and it seemed like that was the problem. But a week later.....
> 
> Update: Well I think I can now rule out it was my GTX 980. Because the same black screens finally happened on my 750Ti. It took a week but it still happened, though no BSOD yet. So now we are down to either my MB or my PSU.
> Deductive reasoning leans more towards the PSU because it tends to happen more often with the GTX 980, which consequently draws more power. But it happens more often when the PC resources are barely being used, meaning when the system is less taxed out.
> 
> Some might say it could be the nvidia drivers. It is a possibility but if it was I would think there would be more reported cases and I have found nothing similar anywhere else.
> The only way to find out if it is my MB is to get another x79 board and see is my system runs ok on that. But use would be temporary and I can't find anything cheaper than $160 for an x79 board.
> I do not have another PSU except for an old 450 watt psu but that does not have enough connectors for this board and all it;s peripherals.
> Are there any trouble shooting steps I can take to possibly help narrow down what may be causing the issue?


Update: Someone has prompted me to try some other troubleshooting steps before any RMA.
I was asked if I had tried my graphics cards in another PCIE port. TBH I have no idea why I did not try this earlier as I remember hearing about PCIE ports going bad and not working like they are supposed to. I will go back to my GTX 980 and either use it in the third slot or just in the second slot at x8.

Secondly I remembered I have a Xeon 2670 chip that works in this MB just fine. It is a downgrade in performance but if I install it and the MB USB ports start working correctly then I know I have to RMA this 4930k also (still under warranty on the intel tuning plan). The problem I am having with my USB ports is that I have no keyboard or mouse support from my onboard USB 2.0 ports until windows starts, and before you ask or comment I do have them enabled in the bios. I have to use a PS/2 keyboard to get into my bios. Consequently I switched my mouse to a PCIE USB 2.0 card and now it works just fine in the bios.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Update: Someone has prompted me to try some other troubleshooting steps before any RMA.
> I was asked if I had tried my graphics cards in another PCIE port. TBH I have no idea why I did not try this earlier as I remember hearing about PCIE ports going bad and not working like they are supposed to. I will go back to my GTX 980 and either use it in the third slot or just in the second slot at x8.
> 
> Secondly I remembered I have a Xeon 2670 chip that works in this MB just fine. It is a downgrade in performance but if I install it and the MB USB ports start working correctly then I know I have to RMA this 4930k also (still under warranty on the intel tuning plan). The problem I am having with my USB ports is that I have no keyboard or mouse support from my onboard USB 2.0 ports until windows starts, and before you ask or comment I do have them enabled in the bios. I have to use a PS/2 keyboard to get into my bios. Consequently I switched my mouse to a PCIE USB 2.0 card and now it works just fine in the bios.


U also got onboard switches for pcie, make sure they are turned on


----------



## dboythagr8

Hey guys, I ended up getting a 1070 for my rig. It hasn't been turned on in about 120 days. I plug everything in, press power, and nothing. All of the mobo lights are on though. I tried pressing the start button on the mobo with no luck either. Is this a CMOS issue?

Edit: I just tried it again...it sounds like it tries to turn on when I press the button, but nothing happens. The lights are on on the mobo with the RoG logo pulsing.

Edit 2: When I take the GPU out the machine boots like normal. Put the GPU back in and nothing. I have a EVGA 1300w PSU (from when I had triple sli)....am I missing something here? The last GPU I had in this machine was a OG Titan X. Using 8 pin (6+2) to connect it.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Hey guys, I ended up getting a 1070 for my rig. It hasn't been turned on in about 120 days. I plug everything in, press power, and nothing. All of the mobo lights are on though. I tried pressing the start button on the mobo with no luck either. Is this a CMOS issue?
> 
> Edit: I just tried it again...it sounds like it tries to turn on when I press the button, but nothing happens. The lights are on on the mobo with the RoG logo pulsing.
> 
> Edit 2: When I take the GPU out the machine boots like normal. Put the GPU back in and nothing. I have a EVGA 1300w PSU (from when I had triple sli)....am I missing something here? The last GPU I had in this machine was a OG Titan X. Using 8 pin (6+2) to connect it.


Try another pcie slot , like Madmaxneo was advised


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Hey guys, I ended up getting a 1070 for my rig. It hasn't been turned on in about 120 days. I plug everything in, press power, and nothing. All of the mobo lights are on though. I tried pressing the start button on the mobo with no luck either. Is this a CMOS issue?
> 
> Edit: I just tried it again...it sounds like it tries to turn on when I press the button, but nothing happens. The lights are on on the mobo with the RoG logo pulsing.
> 
> Edit 2: When I take the GPU out the machine boots like normal. Put the GPU back in and nothing. I have a EVGA 1300w PSU (from when I had triple sli)....am I missing something here? The last GPU I had in this machine was a OG Titan X. Using 8 pin (6+2) to connect it.


I second what @HOMECINEMA-PC said.

Plus are you getting any codes on the MB readout?


----------



## dboythagr8

Heh looks like the way the 6+2 pins are placed onto the GPU matters. I switched how it was hooked up and that seemed to have done it!


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Update: Someone has prompted me to try some other troubleshooting steps before any RMA.
> I was asked if I had tried my graphics cards in another PCIE port. TBH I have no idea why I did not try this earlier as I remember hearing about PCIE ports going bad and not working like they are supposed to. I will go back to my GTX 980 and either use it in the third slot or just in the second slot at x8.
> 
> Secondly I remembered I have a Xeon 2670 chip that works in this MB just fine. It is a downgrade in performance but if I install it and the MB USB ports start working correctly then I know I have to RMA this 4930k also (still under warranty on the intel tuning plan). The problem I am having with my USB ports is that I have no keyboard or mouse support from my onboard USB 2.0 ports until windows starts, and before you ask or comment I do have them enabled in the bios. I have to use a PS/2 keyboard to get into my bios. Consequently I switched my mouse to a PCIE USB 2.0 card and now it works just fine in the bios.


I think I've asked before but did you have Legacy USB support enabled in BIOS? Also maybe worth a shot to disable fast boot and to lengthen the splash screen display time from 3 seconds to like 6 seconds so your USB has time to fully initialize.


----------



## dboythagr8

Is there a recommended "best" guide I can use to overclock my 4930k on this mobo? I have it OC'd at 4.5ghz @ 1.38v, but I feel that is a bit high. Want to try and get that voltage down while seeing how far I can push it.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Is there a recommended "best" guide I can use to overclock my 4930k on this mobo? I have it OC'd at 4.5ghz @ 1.38v, but I feel that is a bit high. Want to try and get that voltage down while seeing how far I can push it.


For a 4930k, you are very lucky for that oc and volts.

Think you did good on your own.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> For a 4930k, you are very lucky for that oc and volts.
> 
> Think you did good on your own.


Prolly go [email protected] High LLC or not .

I'm running a 4960x @[email protected]@1.41vc daily for years now

Hey howsit goin mate


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Prolly go [email protected] High LLC or not .
> 
> I'm running a 4960x @[email protected]@1.41vc daily for years now
> 
> Hey howsit goin mate


That's a great chip you have there!

Same ol same ol, doing great.









How about you?

I run 1.275v for 4.5Ghz with my IB-E. Using bios 0208 on the R4BE, pre-release bios. Seems to help lower vcore.

I can post it up if you want to use it. I added NVMe support for my Intel 750.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> That's a great chip you have there!
> 
> Same ol same ol, doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about you?
> 
> I run 1.275v for 4.5Ghz with my IB-E. Using bios 0208 on the R4BE, pre-release bios. Seems to help lower vcore.
> 
> I can post it up if you want to use it. I added NVMe support for my Intel 750.


Yeah man I wanna have a crack at one . I'm running the original bios that came with the board .

Well I'm looking for work been to interview this morning . Enjoying my time off before I get back into gear .....


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Here you go:

R4BE.zip 4911k .zip file


0208 with NVMe set up as R4BE.cap for usb flash back.

I've been using for a couple weeks, seems ok.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Thanks mate I will give it a go


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Is there a recommended "best" guide I can use to overclock my 4930k on this mobo? I have it OC'd at 4.5ghz @ 1.38v, but I feel that is a bit high. Want to try and get that voltage down while seeing how far I can push it.


It's about the same as my 4960X. Rocksolid at 4.5 GHz ~1.36-1.376 V. But 4.4 GHz is only 1.28 V so there is a huge bump for 100 MHz. 4.6 not stable at any voltage...


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> For a 4930k, you are very lucky for that oc and volts.
> 
> Think you did good on your own.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> It's about the same as my 4960X. Rocksolid at 4.5 GHz ~1.36-1.376 V. But 4.4 GHz is only 1.28 V so there is a huge bump for 100 MHz. 4.6 not stable at any voltage...


Cool, appreciate it guys! Still if anybody is aware of a good guide, I'd like to try my hand at improvement.

The combination of flipping the orientation of my fans in the push/pull setup, and using fresh thermal paste has let me stay under the 60c mark. I've done gaming and bench marking too.


----------



## scottiescotsman

When I turn the power switch on the psu to on I get

#1 the red on button on the board lights up
#2 the reset button lights up
#3 the sound divider lights up on the board
#4 the front rog panel lights up

everything normal and just wont post or switch on.

bought thermaltake Dr.power II and checked my power supply and it was perfect.

What now ?

I'm pullin my hair out...


----------



## Laithan

Any beeps? Error codes on LED (don't forget it's there in top right corner)

(1) Clear CMOS ( or pull battery out for 30sec with power cord unplugged )

(2) Re-seat memory (check correct slots to use) or try dual channel mode (in the event you have a bad DIMM)

(3) Disconnect everything in your case from the motherboard except the power switch, GPU, CPU, memory and fans.

(4) Remove board from the case and test on bench (rules out bad grounding, etc )

(5) Re-seat CPU (check for bent pins)


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottiescotsman*
> 
> When I turn the power switch on the psu to on I get
> 
> #1 the red on button on the board lights up
> #2 the reset button lights up
> #3 the sound divider lights up on the board
> #4 the front rog panel lights up
> 
> everything normal and just wont post or switch on.
> 
> bought thermaltake Dr.power II and checked my power supply and it was perfect.
> 
> What now ?
> 
> I'm pullin my hair out...


What GPU are you using? I had an issue where the lights would be on as you described, but the machine wouldn't power on. I had to switch the order that the 6+2 PSU cable to my GPU was plugged in. I think I had the 2 plugged into the left end of the 8-pin connector on the GPU, and the 6 on the right side. It wouldn't boot until I switched it around.

If not that did you try the RAM.

Did you try reseating all PSU cables.


----------



## scottiescotsman

I tried reseating all psu cables to no avail








about to drain my system so I can take motherboard out of case.
I have 3 x gtx 680 4gb cards all with water cooling and I have an external phobya 1080 rad 9+9 120 fans.
So my graphics cards only have 2 x 6 pin connectors on them.

Thanks for your info


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottiescotsman*
> 
> I tried reseating all psu cables to no avail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> about to drain my system so I can take motherboard out of case.
> I have 3 x gtx 680 4gb cards all with water cooling and I have an external phobya 1080 rad 9+9 120 fans.
> So my graphics cards only have 2 x 6 pin connectors on them.
> 
> Thanks for your info


Wait

I didn't see you mention you had 3x GPUs. You need to plug in the molex "EZ PLUG" for additional power to your GPUs (it's on the bottom of the mobo) I had Tri-SLI Titan Blacks at one time on this board, and I have a 1300w PSU. It wouldn't boot until I gave it extra juice with the molex PSU adapter in that slot.

If you haven't used that extra slot for power, try that.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Wait
> 
> I didn't see you mention you had 2x GPUs. You need to plug in the molex "EZ PLUG" for additional power to your GPUs (it's on the bottom of the mobo) I had Tri-SLI Titan Blacks at one time on this board, and I have a 1300w PSU. It wouldn't boot until I gave it extra juice with the molex PSU adapter in that slot.


Good point...

And a PIA to plug this in when the board is already installed, be prepared it's not a right angle molex....


----------



## scottiescotsman

call me a window licker if you want but where exactly is it as I looking @ motherboard manual 1-8 and cant see it lol


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I run 3 290 cards and ive never needed to use that plug


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottiescotsman*
> 
> call me a window licker if you want but where exactly is it as I looking @ motherboard manual 1-8 and cant see it lol


1-48

If I were you I'd have the 4-pin, 8-pin, 24-pin (of course), and the Molex EZ Plug all running from your PSU. I used all the power I could when I had my Tri-SLI setup.


----------



## Laithan

Or just disable the PCI-e slot with the 2nd GPU and pretend you don't have SLI.... (as a test)


----------



## alancsalt

Dunno how vital it is. With 3 x 780 KingPins (6 x 8 pin and 3 x 6 pin) I've got it plugged in, but I figure it depends on power draw - whether your cards draw a lot..?


----------



## Laithan

The typical power draw from a GPU is going to be around 66W with around 75Wmax under load although I have seen some BIOS' pulling over 100W from PCI-e...I think the max is supposed to be 75W.

This isn't relevant when the GPU *isn't* under load though... even if the GPU used 100W at an idle state there's still 2 other PCI-e power cables feeding the GPU additional power divided between all sources.. Total GPU power is PCI-e slot + PCI-e cable1 + PCI-e cable2 = Total power that can be potentially consumed. This is not necessarily the max power the GPU is allowed as that value can be set lower than total power of all power sources.

Anyway when at IDLE speeds there's no boosting and there's hardly any power draw at all especially pre-GUI. I would almost guarantee that if lack of power to PCI-e was the issue that it would be seen when under load not @ idle. If the motherboard is flat out refusing to start because there isn't sufficient power, you can either connect the molex plug and see what happens, disable the PCI-e slot with the switches in top right corner (it electrically disables it as if there was no GPU installed) or remove the GPU to test this theory. I think the easiest option would be to disable the PCI-e slot (see manual) and you'll know right away if it is a power issue or not.

What about the other power connectors for the motherboard? There are 3 others.. here are all of them (all required) except the EZ-PLUG.


----------



## dboythagr8

Yeah it's quicker to flick the PCI-e lane switches for the 2nd and 3rd gpu to off, and try and boot that way. Then enable the 2nd switch and so on.


----------



## smrdel

Hello all - I posted this a few pages back but no one responded so will try again !!

I have had one of these motherboards for a few years now in conjunction with a i7 4820k. I have never overclocked this CPU but I am playing around with settings at the moment to get some more life out of my setup before upgrading. I am thinking of upgrading in about another 12 -18 months. I think i have it at OC to 4.5GHz. I am new to OC so need some guidance to see if i am doing things correctly. I am sure its probably already been talked about somewhere in this post but may take a while to read through all the pages to find it !

The other thing is I am wondering if its worth upgrading to the i7 4930k for about $300 AUD ? My gut feeling atm is not to bother ?????

My Current PC setup is

Windows 10 64bit

i7 4820k CPU
Asus Rampage IV Black Edition ( OBVIOUSLY!)
4 x 8 GB 2400Mhz Corsair Dominator DDR3 RAM - Recently upgraded from 2 x 8GB
2 x ASUS Matrix GTX 980 GPU
256 GB Samsung 850 Pro SSD - Windows/Programs Drive
2TB WD Black Drive - Games Drive
Windows 10 Pro - 64 Bit.

CPU Cooler is Corsair H110iGT

I do a fair bit of gaming and basic video editing - I have not had any problems running any games without the OC.

Also thinking maybe overcloking the 2x GPU's as well ????


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Gidday , I wouldn't bother with a 4930k . Put the loot toward a 4960x if ya want hex core . Or O/C 4820k to 4.8ghz and by all means put a mild O/C on your gfx cards


----------



## smrdel

Thanks HOMECINEMA - In my research there is little difference between the 4930k and the 4960x - they both have 6 cores and 12 threads whereas there is a 15 - 20 % increase in performance from the 4820k and the 4930k and there is increase in cores and threads. I would need to buy this second hand and the 4930k is much cheaper and maybe easier to get then the 4960x. I have OC through BIOS to 4.5 Ghz but not sure if its 100% stable - I have had a few times when PC has hung and upon restart has sent me to BIOS. I have tried following some youtube clips but the steps dont follow 100%. Honestly dont know how to go about it and don''t want to blow up the CPU.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Thanks HOMECINEMA - In my research there is little difference between the 4930k and the 4960x - they both have 6 cores and 12 threads whereas there is a 15 - 20 % increase in performance from the 4820k and the 4930k and there is increase in cores and threads. I would need to buy this second hand and the 4930k is much cheaper and maybe easier to get then the 4960x. I have OC through BIOS to 4.5 Ghz but not sure if its 100% stable - I have had a few times when PC has hung and upon restart has sent me to BIOS. I have tried following some youtube clips but the steps dont follow 100%. Honestly dont know how to go about it and don''t want to blow up the CPU.


4960X specification wise the extra L3 cache is all that you get. However, Intel's Extreme Edition chips are picked from higher quality silicon which yields greater overclocking potential and less heat output. Much stronger IMC for dram o'clocking too .

Well heres a guide

https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?38018-Ivy-Bridge-E-Easy-Overclocking-Guide-%96-The-Listy-Wordy-Edition


----------



## supermiguel

wonder if thats worth it for me as well, to upgrade from a 3930k to a 4960x, is that the best processor made for x79?


----------



## dboythagr8

I don't think it's worth going to a 4960x over a 4930k unless you find a killer deal on it. It's not like the X99 platform where the 5960x is a 8 core processor and the 5930k is a 6 core.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> wonder if thats worth it for me as well, to upgrade from a 3930k to a 4960x, is that the best processor made for x79?


Unless you have a low performing 3930k, I'd stick with it. Ivy Bridge-e was a tiny performance increase over Sandy Bridge-e, and SB-e is the better overclocker (in most cases). THere's not much sense blowing money on the upgrade now unless your 3930k is a bad performer and/or you find a great deal on the 4960x


----------



## xarot

There's always the Xeon E5-1680 V2 which specs wise is a kind of an Ivy Bridge-E equivalent of Haswell-E i7-5960X. It's a bit rare though and will cost around $ 1k.


----------



## smrdel

So at the moment I can OC my 4820k to 4.5Ghz and thats me not knowing what i am doing and doing it through BIOS !

The 4930k and 4960x are about 20% better in performance - so people are saying its worth the upgrade due to better'specs but i assume you can get a better more stable OC as well ? What can these go to 5Ghz ?

What price would these be worth to get ?. On ebay i have seen the 4930k sell for average of $400 AUD and as low as $300 which ended early with someone giving a offer so missed it


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> So at the moment I can OC my 4820k to 4.5Ghz and thats me not knowing what i am doing and doing it through BIOS !
> 
> The 4930k and 4960x are about 20% better in performance - so people are saying its worth the upgrade due to better'specs but i assume you can get a better more stable OC as well ? What can these go to 5Ghz ?
> 
> What price would these be worth to get ?. On ebay i have seen the 4930k sell for average of $400 AUD and as low as $300 which ended early with someone giving a offer so missed it


4.5GHz is lucky for all IB-E chips. You want a six core?, go with a 4930k or E5-1650 V2. 1650 v2 is unlocked like your 4820k.


----------



## supermiguel

The 4960x u can find them for $200-$300


----------



## Derek1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> The 4960x u can find them for $200-$300


I don't think I have ever seen one that inexpensive. Unless it was an ES or QS or one of those from China (which I would never buy).

And I agree that the 4960x rarely OCs to beyond 4.5 from my research. Will it perform (score) higher on benchmarks than my 4820K at 4.8? Probably. The 4930K is reprted to OC better than the 4960x but still not over 4.7 on average. Finding examples of the 1650 v2 is a little harder but is probably very close to the 4930k.

I got this chart off a thread here somewhere and not sure how relevant it is or up to date.

"CPU Batch # Section for IB-E's (Should dump this in the IB-E club if there is one)

Batch #'s

-4960X-
3320A573 ES (4.5GHz cinebench @ 1.4v) (4.99ghz @ 1.496V)
3321A576 ES (4.7GHz cinebench @ 1.35v, (5005 Mhz @ 1.472v) 5750MHz 3DMark vantage @ 1.7v LN2, CB -150 )
3330A936 (4,8 GHz cinebench @ 1,50v)
3325A993 5GHz / 1.42v

-4930K-
3320A829 ES (4.6GHz cinebench @ 1.4v)
3326B664 (5.0GHz cinebench @ 1.256v SS cooling)
3328A983 (4.6GHz cinebench @ 1.4v, 5650MHz 3DMark vantage @ 1.7v LN2, no CB)
3325A911 @ 4.7GHz cinebench @ 1.29 volt air-cooling
No CB but CBB at -170 which is not bad
4,7 GHz primestable at 1,32 Volt on air
5,8 GHz Vantage stable at 1,75 Volt
5,85 GHz wPrime stable at 1,75 Volt
3326A994 4.6 GHz Cinebench 11.5 @ 1.4V air cooling 5 GHz under SS @ -45 with 1.55V
3327A694 cine [email protected] ss -40 / [email protected] cascade -102
3326B662 4650 6/12ht vantage cpu test 1.43v/water
3332BXXX 4600 1.3V vantage max on ln2 5400 vantage 5500 3D11
3326B667 ( Cinebench @ 4.9 / 1.4v ) 4.7ghz at 1.37v on a H100 Temps Sit around 65-70C Full Load with Prime
These puppies overclock better when you raise the BLCK instead of just going Multi only.
3332B081 (4500 1.2v vantage & cinebench ) (4700 1.35v vantage & cinebench) (5000 6c/6t 1.48v 32m)
3326B668 4.7ghz @ 1.392v

-4820K-
3325A984 (4.9GHz cinebench @ 1.5v)
3327A808 (5ghz @ 1.424v)"

Here is a link to a larger list of batch numbers from HWBot

http://forum.hwbot.org/showpost.php?p=288451&postcount=121


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> The 4960x u can find them for $200-$300


Where ? and in what currency you talking about ?


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Where ? and in what currency you talking about ?


Ebay, us dollars.. http://m.ebay.com/itm/332101379156?_mwBanner=1


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Ebay, us dollars.. http://m.ebay.com/itm/332101379156?_mwBanner=1


that looks like a good price for it ?


----------



## supermiguel

I guess u can probably sell your current cpu for what $150-$200? So only few more bucks


----------



## supermiguel

3326C566 4.7Ghz Cinebench @ 1.34v, 5.45Ghz cinebench @ 1.65v - DICE


----------



## Laithan

As MrTooShort mentioned the XEON E5-1650 V2 is going for about $200-$250. 12MB vs 15MB cache and 100Mhz difference base/boost clock otherwise essentially identical to the 4960x. Yes it is unlocked so the base speed really doesn't matter. Xeons are usually binned better but it's still silicon lottery.

If it was me, what you have already is fine and you'd be just spinning your wheels.


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> As MrTooShort mentioned the XEON E5-1650 V2 is going for about $200-$250. 12MB vs 15MB cache and 100Mhz difference base/boost clock otherwise essentially identical to the 4960x. Yes it is unlocked so the base speed really doesn't matter. Xeons are usually binned better but it's still silicon lottery.
> 
> If it was me, what you have already is fine and you'd be just spinning your wheels.


Thanks for your response - I was just after feedback here because as you say - it seems that what I have is still pretty good. It did cross my mind as well that upgrading may not be worth it unless I find a real cheap 4930k or 4960x it seems........


----------



## supermiguel

@smrdel how high can you get your current processor to oc?


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> @smrdel how high can you get your current processor to oc?


Through the BIOS - cant remember which setting I am currently at 4.5Ghz. I am not experience with OC so not sure how far it can go. It seems stable most of the time probably had 2-3 times when PC locked up and upon reboot mentioned it was too high.


----------



## Laithan

Playing around with *BCLK* and was able to get fairly high... 172Mhz... _seems_ stable... *QPI Link* said it was like *5.5Ghz*... is this pushing things too far lol.. board is under water.


Spoiler: ss


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

172 is awesome!









Mine won't post at the 166MHz strap, have to use 125. 134ish is the best I can do.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 172 is awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine won't post at the 166MHz strap, have to use 125. 134ish is the best I can do.


http://valid.x86.fr/lndd65


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I vaguely remember yours was high too, not that high though


----------



## dboythagr8

Hey what's the best way to stress test the 4930k? Prime95? I can't remember where I saw it, but I thought there needed to be certain settings enabled to properly test a 6 core? Anybody know what I'm talking about?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/lndd65


Wowzers, congrats!

Has anyone done any comparisons with BLCK? Where do you see the most performance improvements? Disk I/O? GPU? I'm testing myself but AS SSD is completely inconsistent for scores.. I'm not sure if there's really a good one to use that is consistent and designed for SSDs and high throughput. I see some differences in Aida64 but not blown away. I haven't done much GPU benching yet, that's next.


Spoiler: Playing with cache and memory comparisons



I couldn't always get the memory and cpu to run at the exact same speeds but they are all very close. I see I ran into the memory bug @ 101Mhz

Right-click and open in a new tab for hi-res


Notice L3 WRITE CACHE is faster @ 133Mhz than all others?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Hey what's the best way to stress test the 4930k? Prime95? I can't remember where I saw it, but I thought there needed to be certain settings enabled to properly test a 6 core? Anybody know what I'm talking about?


That was ages ago, all of the popular benchmarking apps are updated to work with 6, 8, or even 10 cores now. Personally, I wouldn't bother with Prime95, takes too long and puts too much wear on your chip. Start with Cinebench. Once you can pass that, move on to RealBench. Once you can pass that, move on to Heaven. Once you can pass that, you're solid.

But of course stability testing is a hotly debated topic, so YMMV. Just my 2 cents above.


----------



## Mega Man

first, benchmarks are NOT stress tests.

anyone tells me they are stable in cine bench or real bench { hint. bench stands for benchmark} i LOL @them as on OCN stable actually has a meaning

that said stability is what you want it to be.

i do use prime and it works great for me.

lastly a great post on not only stability, but "wearing your chip out " ( which is not true )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC




----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*


haha, ditto....


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*


These are really incredible scores.. ^^ Jaw *still* dropped!

Here is a comparison of (3) Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 240GB SSD drives in *RAID 0* using an LSI 9260-8i w.512MB cache (6GBPs SATA III). These are the drives that use the Toshiba toggle-mode NAND. All this storage muscle even RAID 0 can't compare with your NVMe..







(My LSI controller is also running through PCI-e).

As I mentioned, *I cannot find a test that gives me consistent scores*... Both of these tests were run back to back, 3 times in a row... scores all over the place. Do others see the same inconsistencies? In the ATTO test every time I ran the benchmark I got higher scores... AS SSD scores went up and down. I realize it could be related to my 512MB cache on the controller but I still wouldn't expect such large inconsistencies...


Spoiler: My SSD benchies



R-click open in new tab for hi-res




Re-ran the ATTO test to use the same logical drive and file size that AS SSD used. Increased to 1GB to rule out pure cache variances, still incredibly inconsistent.


----------



## scottiescotsman

Well here goes....

Drained my loop and took my mobo out the case and just resat everything. Plus just added 1 gtx680 ram and power connectors.
Everything lights up as it should but still doesn't post.... please help.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottiescotsman*
> 
> Well here goes....
> 
> Drained my loop and took my mobo out the case and just resat everything. Plus just added 1 gtx680 ram and power connectors.
> Everything lights up as it should but still doesn't post.... please help.


No error codes either? Do you have a different GPU you can test? Have you upgraded the mobo BIOS?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottiescotsman*
> 
> Well here goes....
> 
> Drained my loop and took my mobo out the case and just resat everything. Plus just added 1 gtx680 ram and power connectors.
> Everything lights up as it should but still doesn't post.... please help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> No error codes either? Do you have a different GPU you can test? Have you upgraded the mobo BIOS?


That is one question many have asked but I've not seen a reply to this in particular.

So, I'll ask again:

What error code(s) are you getting?

Otherwise, what numbers does the MB readout display?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

CPU fan header connected ??


----------



## Laithan

re-seat everything including the CPU also? Check for bent pins?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Speaking of error codes. I was finally able to catch some error codes on my MB when the screens went black. I have caught two so far they are 30 and AA, of which both are reserved ACPI/ASL checkpoints, and most of the codes for them point to some kind of sleep mode. So if it has something to do with a sleep mode how in the hell do I stop that from happening?
I have all the sleep mode settings in windows turned off and I do not have AI suite 3 installed anymore. As far as I know there are no other programs that have a sleep mode for the PC....

Any suggestions?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Add vcore


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Add vcore


Well the issue is everything is in stock right now except for being in XMP (changing that doesn't help).


----------



## Kimir

AA on any Asus board means everything works fine (boot sequence completed).


----------



## scottiescotsman

when I turn the power supply on all lights are on except the two digit error code output.

Trying to attatch a photo


----------



## scottiescotsman

Would you believe it, took mobo to a rep. comp. place I know well and first time on booted everything worked so it definitely must be graphics cards.

Bought cheapest graphics card / the one he used to test mobo as a spare and will test tomorrow.

At least my mobo working







so so happy









Thanks for all your wise help guys much appreciated.

Steven:thumb:


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottiescotsman*
> 
> Would you believe it, took mobo to a rep. comp. place I know well and first time on booted everything worked so it definitely must be graphics cards.
> 
> Bought cheapest graphics card / the one he used to test mobo as a spare and will test tomorrow.
> 
> At least my mobo working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so so happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your wise help guys much appreciated.
> 
> Steven:thumb:


Well we did suggest using the PCI-e switches on the board to test the GPUs. You wouldn't of had to drain the loop or any of that. The switches would've allowed you to individually test each card and determine if one is bad. Also maybe you mentioned it, but did you plug in the EZ Plug as I suggested?

Either way good to see your board works..


----------



## scottiescotsman

Its not the cards its the cable set I bought from cablemod, so something wrong with them.

Can I buy just the original xfx cables for my psu?


----------



## maybach123

Hey guys I though this thead might be able to solve my problem. I have a 4820k on the Asus rivbe and the system turns on for a second then turns back off tried clearing the cmos by taking out the button cell battery but that did not help


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> Hey guys I though this thead might be able to solve my problem. I have a 4820k on the Asus rivbe and the system turns on for a second then turns back off tried clearing the cmos by taking out the button cell battery but that did not help


Ya don't need to remove battery , Clear cmos button next to usb ports .

And some rig specs would be handy ....

#Not mind reader


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Ya don't need to remove battery , Clear cmos button next to usb ports .
> 
> And some rig specs would be handy ....
> 
> #Not mind reader


As per Asus tech support: Sometimes the clear cmos button on the MB does not work as intended, it is always safer to simply remove the battery for a certain amount of time then reinstalling it.


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Ya don't need to remove battery , Clear cmos button next to usb ports .
> 
> And some rig specs would be handy ....
> 
> #Not mind reader


4820k
32gb avexir ram
Custom watercooling loop
780 6gb
Windows 8.1 64 bit

I also tried the clear cmos button first


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottiescotsman*
> 
> Its not the cards its the cable set I bought from cablemod, so something wrong with them.
> 
> Can I buy just the original xfx cables for my psu?


I Bet you can you would need to call them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Ya don't need to remove battery , Clear cmos button next to usb ports .
> 
> And some rig specs would be handy ....
> 
> #Not mind reader
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As per Asus tech support: Sometimes the clear cmos button on the MB does not work as intended, it is always safer to simply remove the battery for a certain amount of time then reinstalling it.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a typical script for "average" customers....


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I Bet you can you would need to call them
> That sounds like a typical script for "average" customers....


Haha, yeah ok.

Not their exact wording but it gets the meaning across. I have heard this from several people and even found it on their forums a while back when I was learning about OCing. I believe it may have been Raja that mentioned not to use the clear cmos button, but don't quote me as it was well over a year ago.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> 4820k
> *32gb avexir ram*
> Custom watercooling loop
> 780 6gb
> Windows 8.1 64 bit
> 
> I also tried the clear cmos button first


How many ram sticks you running ? 4 or 8 ??

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> As per Asus tech support: Sometimes the clear cmos button on the MB does not work as intended, *it is always safer to simply remove the battery for a certain amount of time then reinstalling it.*


I'm not doin that .

I aint pullin this thing apart . ( Mind you its pretty easy







)



That's why there is a button ...........


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> How many ram sticks you running ? 4 or 8 ??
> [/B]


4


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> How many ram sticks you running ? 4 or 8 ??
> [/B]
> 
> I'm not doin that .
> 
> I aint pullin this thing apart . ( Mind you its pretty easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's why there is a button ...........


Yeah with your setup I wouldn't want to do it either...lol.
From what I understand it's not that it doesn't work at all as it does work fine on some boards. I think it does on mine but it was part of a troubleshooting step they recommended a while back. I asked what is the difference and they explained what I had said earlier and it was just a precaution.


----------



## Mega Man

Yes a precaution against stupid people ( not saying you or anyone else, but 99% of calls are stupid people that should not be alive - and I mean that seriously, for example when people can not change their own light bulb - you have to wonder how these people can survive )

Ie the guy that used his cd rom drive as a cup holder ......


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> How many ram sticks you running ? 4 or 8 ??
> [/B]
> 
> I'm not doin that .
> 
> I aint pullin this thing apart . ( Mind you its pretty easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> That's why there is a button ...........


I discovered your secret to massive performance and I'm telling everyone!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



It's the coffee in the lower left corner!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes a precaution against stupid people ( not saying you or anyone else, but 99% of calls are stupid people that should not be alive - and I mean that seriously, for example when people can not change their own light bulb - you have to wonder how these people can survive )
> 
> Ie the guy that used his cd rom drive as a cup holder ......


I'd have to argue that in 2017, it actually IS a cup holder now


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes a precaution against stupid people ( not saying you or anyone else, but 99% of calls are stupid people that should not be alive - and I mean that seriously, for example when people can not change their own light bulb - you have to wonder how these people can survive )
> 
> Ie the guy that used his cd rom drive as a cup holder ......


I agree. I have done tech support for friends and family and they think I am a genius...lol.
One person I helped was ecstatic that I fixed the issues with her mac. I asked her if she wanted to know my secret. Her response was, Google? At least she was smart enough to figure that out.

Seriously 99% of the stuff that people need to get fixed is easy to fix. But then again maybe those PC repair shops that charge outrageous fees for simple problems have the right idea. If you're not smart enough to figure it out on your own then you are stupid enough to pay exorbitant fees....


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I discovered your secret to massive performance and I'm telling everyone!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It's the coffee in the lower left corner!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd have to argue that in 2017, it actually IS a cup holder now


Pint o coffee


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Where is all of youse peeps ?????


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am here, been real busy lately....


----------



## Derek1

Is 750US too much for a RIV-BE bnib?


----------



## Kimir

Way too much.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1*
> 
> Is 750US too much for a RIV-BE bnib?


Holy dooley batman !


----------



## Derek1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Holy dooley batman !


LOL

I thought it was high, well too damn high for me that's for sure.
Was on EBay and I think it had a best offer button there. But still, what could the guy possibly be expecting? Although its not like there are a lot of them out there. Supply and Demand and all that crap.


----------



## Laithan

It's a rare item but IMO a used RIVBE is every bit as good as a new one unless abused.


----------



## Derek1

http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_pgn=1&isRefine=false&_nkw=asus%20rampage%20iv%20black

There are 4 in China. Look like from all the same place.
How many of these did Asus actually sell in China?
And those used ones are over 600 Canadian.
The new one is over 1200 Canadian with shipping and import costs. And has 2 offers.
Wonder what my X79 Deluxe could get? lol


----------



## Laithan

I paid $390 for mine used with water blocks already installed.... so I do think those boards from China are a little overpriced... but then again there's less and less of them floating around...

I would set up a search to notify you of new listings and monitor a couple weeks.


----------



## Derek1

Ok, good idea.
Thanks


----------



## Mirkoskji

Hello everyone. I'm about new to the forum.

Recently I've Bought a Xeon e5 1660 v1 for my RIVBE, because I wanted to do overclock for cheap (about 120 euros) and have a decent workstation setup.
After a long research over the internet I came to the conclusion that every xeon 16XX seems to have an unlocked multiplier (or I hope i've not stumbled over the sole 1660 with a locked one). My older cpu was a e5 1620 v1, and I know that, as the i7 3820, it has a locked multiplier of 43x.

Today I've installed My new cpu and discovered that, like the older one, i cannot get over x43. Simply my motherboard wont POST.
Why my RIVBE cannot overclock, via multiplier or straps, over 43x?

Does anyone have the same problem on this board here?

Sorry if my english sounds a little baroque and thanks in advance for help

Mirko


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Mirko

Reset defaults in bios. Or usb flash back the same or newer bios.


----------



## Mirkoskji

I literally tried every possible setting in the bios. I unlocked power limits and everything necessary to get it work. I made something like thirty bios reset when I was trying to figure out how to get the cpu stable. I have two BIOSes on my board, two different versions, one is older and the other is the latest. Tried both and the problem is the same. Right now best result is 4300mhz over all cores at 1.25v.I think the CPU can make much more but is held back by motherboard.its even difficult to get vcore offset to work properly with this particular CPU. I wanted to load the oldest possible bios to try. But rivbe doesn't have USB bios flashback from what I can see from the manual


----------



## RX-ShortFuse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1*
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_pgn=1&isRefine=false&_nkw=asus%20rampage%20iv%20black
> 
> There are 4 in China. Look like from all the same place.
> How many of these did Asus actually sell in China?
> And those used ones are over 600 Canadian.
> The new one is over 1200 Canadian with shipping and import costs. And has 2 offers.
> Wonder what my X79 Deluxe could get? lol


If you look close at there ad, no io shield. They custom made them.
Reason is the board has been repaired, is it 100% who knows.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey all,
I need to send my RIVBE in for an RMA. Unfortunately I may need to actually get another board if they are unable to fix this one. So in lieu of another RIVBE (can't afford it) what other x79 boards will work with a 4930k? I am looking for something less that $200 because that is my current budget.
I had thought about going other routes (new MB and CPU that can handle my DDR3) but everything is pretty much over my budget.
Please note my budget is really low primarily because of trying to get everything straightened after my mom passed in December, It also looks as though I will be living on an extremely tight budget from here on out.....
So any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Mega Man

I can't help much but say sorry to hear about your mom


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mirkoskji*
> 
> I literally tried every possible setting in the bios. I unlocked power limits and everything necessary to get it work. I made something like thirty bios reset when I was trying to figure out how to get the cpu stable. I have two BIOSes on my board, two different versions, one is older and the other is the latest. Tried both and the problem is the same. Right now best result is 4300mhz over all cores at 1.25v.I think the CPU can make much more but is held back by motherboard.its even difficult to get vcore offset to work properly with this particular CPU. I wanted to load the oldest possible bios to try. But rivbe doesn't have USB bios flashback from what I can see from the manual


Put up a picture of cpuz. Is the 1660 an ES?


----------



## Mirkoskji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Put up a picture of cpuz. Is the 1660 an ES?




I think Its a production one, since it has revision c2 and virtualization.

I reached 4.6ghz using intel xtreme tuning utility, but only before fixing vcore in bios.
Then I tried with AI suite 3, and i can go past 43x. But it's annoyngly unstable.

My idea was to set "per core overclock" and use it to boost light threaded applications to 46-47x. I don't need to boost all the cores everytime.

I just want total control in bios.

Also look at this:
http://hwbot.org/submission/3132693_ronaldo02753_cinebench___r15_xeon_e5_1650_1284_cb
It is a sandy bridge xeon overclocked only via bclck using a RIVBE, so I assume it's not so impossible to get it to work. Even if the board is specialized over Ivy bridge


----------



## Laithan

4.6Ghz is good & you probably won't get much more. I seriously doubt it's the multiplier itself causing instability (the chip is simply either locked or unlocked). You'll need to research some more on how to overclock this particular motherboard and/or copy some settings from others. I would post my settings but I'm not 100% stable yet and still fiddling. Good luck!


----------



## Mirkoskji

An other question: the so called Dual intelligent processor suite charges me of an overvolt I didn't ask for:



Now why if i ask for 1.275v it decides to add random voltage? I disabled extra turbo boost voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> 4.6Ghz is good & you probably won't get much more. I seriously doubt it's the multiplier itself causing instability (the chip is simply either locked or unlocked). You'll need to research some more on how to overclock this particular motherboard and/or copy some settings from others. I would post my settings but I'm not 100% stable yet and still fiddling. Good luck!


I know it's enough. but I want to set something like: core 1-2-3: 46 46 45 and core 4-5-6: 44 44 42.
The problem is that this particular feature is not controllable under Windows, but only via bios. Since i can get past 43 multiplier only under windows, while In BIOS I cannot go over 43 for unknown reasons, i'm not getting what I want.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Mirko

Looks like your 1660 is unlocked. I know all 1660s are unlocked anyways. Take the cmos battery out for a bit, also unplug the pc. After about ten minutes, do the usb flash back of any bios you choose. Make the bios R4BE.cap. If that dosent fix it. Check the socket for debris or bent pins. Also make sure the cpu gold pads are clean.


----------



## Mirkoskji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Mirko
> 
> Looks like your 1660 is unlocked. I know all 1660s are unlocked anyways. Take the cmos battery out for a bit, also unplug the pc. After about ten minutes, do the usb flash back of any bios you choose. Make the bios R4BE.cap. If that dosent fix it. Check the socket for debris or bent pins. Also make sure the cpu gold pads are clean.


Thanks I'll give it a try. Can you please help me understanding which USB port i have to use? I already tried this procedure without success. I tried with every usb port on the board and simply it does not start flasback. On the manual it only describes the automated flashback procedure, which simply checks on the internet for newer BIOS and downloads it.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

The second set from top at side panel end. Usb has to be format to fat32 i believe. Might also need to be a usb2 stick. Not sure. On my phone. Sucks to get info and type.

I think any usb stick will do. Format it to fat32.


----------



## Mirkoskji

updates. removed battery from motherboard. After this procedure post fails at code b5. now I will try again bios flashback. i hope i get something back working.

New update: It seems that this damn bios flashback won't work. Tried Again with every usb hole in the back of the board. nothing happens. And post still blocked to b5 code. Now I just have an unservable pc.

Update: board rebooted. If you don't fill the first ram stik it simply wont post. Still, the flashback seems to be a no way. Never had such a difficult time in overclocking stuff in my life, untill 2003


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Download a bios from asus website. Unzip it in the folder. Rename it R4BE.cap. Now stick a usb in the second row of usb slots nearest side panel of pc if using a conventional case with motherboard faced up. Now reformat that usb stick to fat32. Now stick the newly named bios R4BE.cap in it. Now hold that usb flash back button in the back where where the usb stick is. You'll see the light blink faster and faster near the bios chip if the procedure is working. Just wait until it stops blinking. Bios is then flashed


----------



## Mirkoskji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Download a bios from asus website. Unzip it in the folder. Rename it R4BE.cap. Now stick a usb in the second row of usb slots nearest side panel of pc if using a conventional case with motherboard faced up. Now reformat that usb stick to fat32. Now stick the newly named bios R4BE.cap in it. Now hold that usb flash back button in the back where where the usb stick is. You'll see the light blink faster and faster near the bios chip if the procedure is working. Just wait until it stops blinking. Bios is then flashed


Already tried everithing at least 10 times, I even watched a youtube guide on the procedure. I have all the BIOSes lineup for this motherboard from the oldest to the newest. and tried with everyone of them. Everyone is renamed R4BE.CAP. I tried with the USB on the second row of the usb holes in the back of the board, the one just on the side of the "flashback button". nothing happens. I tried to press the button for 1 -2 -3 -10 - 20 seconds. nothing happened. no button flashing. I tried with three different usb keys, formatted to FAT32. Nothing sadly. the board remains dark during the procedure. no blinking.

Update: success in flashing! I tried with a really old 250mb usb key. its working


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Ok. Must be usb2 stick ??


----------



## Mirkoskji

Problem is, even with new bios flash, cant get over 43x.
I've just tried with 44x 34x 34x 34x 34x 34x, and auto voltage (something like 1,375v) and it does't post, just like before. It doesn't even pass 00 code on post code display on the board.
Tried also with 103 mhz bclck. it fails at code 16. tried with 125mhz strap. same thing.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mirkoskji*
> 
> Problem is, even with new bios flash, cant get over 43x.
> I've just tried with 44x 34x 34x 34x 34x 34x, and auto voltage (something like 1,375v) and it does't post, just like before. It doesn't even pass 00 code on post code display on the board.
> Tried also with 103 mhz bclck. it fails at code 16. tried with 125mhz strap. same thing.


What is wrong with 43 it is a decent overclock??? Not good or great but decent???


----------



## dboythagr8

Hey guys. I need to upgrade my ancient DDR3 1600 RAM. I'm thinking of going with Dominator Platinum 16GB or 32GB kit @ 2400mhz. Just wondering, but I shouldn't have any issue using these on the board should i?


----------



## Mirkoskji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> What is wrong with 43 it is a decent overclock??? Not good or great but decent???


It is wrong in the moment I know it could make more. It is not what I want. And the problem is not the overclock per se, is the fact I cannot freely control some features in my bios, while other people with a similar config can. As I've already said. I can overclock in windows to 4.6 with software. I want to do the same in the bios. Why my bios prevent me to do something I can do via software?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mirkoskji*
> 
> Problem is, even with new bios flash, cant get over 43x.
> I've just tried with 44x 34x 34x 34x 34x 34x, and auto voltage (something like 1,375v) and it does't post, just like before. It doesn't even pass 00 code on post code display on the board.
> Tried also with 103 mhz bclck. it fails at code 16. tried with 125mhz strap. same thing.


Take the cpu out and check the socket for debris and bent pins. Clean the cpu pads with isopropyl. With the cpu not installed yet, do the usb flash back again, try bios 0403.

Now install the cpu and see if you can get the max multi of 57.

These are tips I'd do if I had this problem.


----------



## LunaP

Quite curious if Asus is planning another black edition for the upcoming X299. Had to update the vcore voltage on my cpu last year either due to silicon degradation or windows being finiky. OC failed again recently so gotta troubleshoot since nothing wants to start up anymore.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quite curious if Asus is planning another black edition for the upcoming X299. Had to update the vcore voltage on my cpu last year either due to silicon degradation or windows being finiky. OC failed again recently so gotta troubleshoot since nothing wants to start up anymore.


I did not even know about X299. I have just read up on some specs and it looks as though they are pointing at 44 and 46 PCIE lanes for the two types of CPUs (Skylake X and Kaby Lake X respectively). It will be interesting to see what comes about of these specs when they actually come out with the chipset. Here is a link to the article I read on it.
The Asrock board at the end of the article looks really promising and it is rumored to be released at about $299!


----------



## bigkahuna360

Haggled my way to $165 for a 4960X. Will let you guys know once I throw her in my RIVBE. Hope she clocks well!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Haggled my way to $165 for a 4960X. Will let you guys know once I throw her in my RIVBE. Hope she clocks well!


Good luck and thats real cheep too ...









BUT my prediction is a 00 post


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Haggled my way to $165 for a 4960X. Will let you guys know once I throw her in my RIVBE. Hope she clocks well!
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck and thats real cheep too ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT my prediction is a 00 post
Click to expand...

I was smart. I forced him to accept payment via PayPal.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Found some beauty sticks for $150 CAD locally:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












They'll do 2666MHz CL10 with ~1.7v on my system. I use 1.675v for my other 2666MHz CL10 sticks.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Found some beauty sticks for $150 CAD locally:
> 
> -SNIP-
> 
> They'll do 2666MHz CL10 with ~1.7v on my system. I use 1.675v for my other 2666MHz CL10 sticks.


What's the max voltage you would pump into your sticks? I never considered going past 1.5v for my 2400's. >.>


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> What's the max voltage you would pump into your sticks? I never considered going past 1.5v for my 2400's. >.>


1.7v would be my max 24/7.

Up to 2v when I had my PC outside in the winter cold when benching.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> What's the max voltage you would pump into your sticks? I never considered going past 1.5v for my 2400's. >.>
> 
> 
> 
> 1.7v would be my max 24/7.
> 
> Up to 2v when I had my PC outside in the winter cold when benching.
Click to expand...

Good to know. I'll be sure to push it as far as I can when my chip gets here. My 3930k died a life under water. Was a good damn chip. Made me happy at 4.7GHz.


----------



## Laithan

I have G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB DDR3 2400Mhz (PC3 19200) (F3-19200CL10Q-32GBZHD) on the RIVBE (pretty decent ram). I am able to get 2400Mhz stable, not a problem. I'm even able to use 1T and tighten the timings a bit.

What should I get out of these? I don't really know what to expect from overclocking these chips. I know 2400Mhz is already fast but do you think I should be able to get more out of them? I played a little but I didn't get any more than just under 2500Mhz however I'm honestly not familiar with overclocking these chips (I've been focusing on the CPU and now moving to RAM since I got this board).

Anyone have any experience with these or other 2400Mhz with regard to overclocking above 2400Mhz on RIVBE? I know that using 4 chips instead of 8 can improve memory overclocking. It is why I sold my other 32GB kit because I really didn't NEED 64GB anyway..









Thanks


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Good to know. I'll be sure to push it as far as I can when my chip gets here. My 3930k died a life under water. Was a good damn chip. Made me happy at 4.7GHz.


Oh no... how did it die if I may ask?


----------



## Dwofzz

I did test my Dominator Platinum kit ( 32GB 2133MHz ) at 2133, 2400 and 2669. No gain in performance from 2400 to 2669.. You are better of tightening up the timing some more imo!


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Good to know. I'll be sure to push it as far as I can when my chip gets here. My 3930k died a life under water. Was a good damn chip. Made me happy at 4.7GHz.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh no... how did it die if I may ask?
Click to expand...

It was on the way to my last LAN party. I hadn't been on my desktop for months except the occasional visit to power it on since I don't have room for it at my new residence. (I recently became a father so most of my gaming time has vanished and I just started my career working in health care!)

I booted it up to find that my Windows 10 build had expired and the bootloader had broken itself. Well great, not a big deal, but a pain in the ass to reinstall Windows. Everything was fine so I packed everything up and on my way out, I noticed a few droplets on the side panel. I immediately took precautions before powering it up. I blew off everything with my Datavac, leak tested for an hour, and then inspected around for any kind of water damages. Everything seemed fine so I finished packing up and we leak tested for another 4 hours at the LAN. No leaks whatsoever.

We tried eliminating every possibility without tearing down the loop. Down to the last bit of troubleshooting we could do, my buddy piped in that the board has debug LEDs behind the 24pin and to my relief, was only the CPU.

I say relief because the CPU *is* the cheapest part to replace in my rig after all.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> I did test my Dominator Platinum kit ( 32GB 2133MHz ) at 2133, 2400 and 2669. No gain in performance from 2400 to 2669.. You are better of tightening up the timing some more imo!


The jump from 1600 to 2400 only net between 3 and 5FPS in select cases at most. I'm not surprised you didnt see any visible gains. You'll only see slightly better loading times.


----------



## Laithan

Wow that stinks but as you pointed out, it could have been much worse. Sometimes these things are just meant to be and we end up with something bettter in the long run anyway


----------



## Dwofzz

I know, Just did the test for the sake of science ?


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Wow that stinks but as you pointed out, it could have been much worse. Sometimes these things are just meant to be and we end up with something bettter in the long run anyway


I could have lost my Ti's! Now that, I would have cried over. I'm sad that I didnt spend the extra for the MC warranty. I could have had 1080's if I'd wanted.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I have G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB DDR3 2400Mhz (PC3 19200) (F3-19200CL10Q-32GBZHD) on the RIVBE (pretty decent ram). I am able to get 2400Mhz stable, not a problem. I'm even able to use 1T and tighten the timings a bit.
> 
> What should I get out of these? I don't really know what to expect from overclocking these chips. I know 2400Mhz is already fast but do you think I should be able to get more out of them? I played a little but I didn't get any more than just under 2500Mhz however I'm honestly not familiar with overclocking these chips (I've been focusing on the CPU and now moving to RAM since I got this board).
> 
> Anyone have any experience with these or other 2400Mhz with regard to overclocking above 2400Mhz on RIVBE? I know that using 4 chips instead of 8 can improve memory overclocking. It is why I sold my other 32GB kit because I really didn't NEED 64GB anyway..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Try 11-13-13-35 1T or 2T @2666 with 1.7v. See if it boots. Might need the 125MHz strap to get 2666MHz.


----------



## Dwofzz

I did 2669 at 125 cl 11-13-12 T2 / 5-124-7936-12-6-26-6-6-7 at 1.64v ( "stock is 2133 1.5v" )


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Try 11-13-13-35 1T or 2T @2666 with 1.7v. See if it boots. Might need the 125MHz strap to get 2666MHz.


Thank you. I tried it and no boot. I played around a while slowing the timing a bit even a little more voltage.. did not want to play nice for me. I also tried 2600Mhz so I guess I'll be happy w/~2400-2500Mhz unless there's something else I should try first


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Well worth a try, but 32 GBs @2500Mhz is more than enough, even 2133MHz.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Well worth a try, but 32 GBs @2500Mhz is more than enough, even 2133MHz.


Finally going to flash that bios you posted up for me .......

its been awhile since ive done anything to this board apart from slight volt changes in the bios .......


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Well worth a try, but 32 GBs @2500Mhz is more than enough, even 2133MHz.


Okay ive got that pre release bios flashed over and I now have [email protected]@1.275vc down about .035 from 403 bios / prev O/C









Right time to do some gaming hopefully no added vcore ......

+1 for that bro


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

After a few hours of 12k 4k gaming and a couple of slight adjustments it seems I have [email protected]@1.27vc with LLC high ...






Next [email protected]@1.38vc


----------



## dboythagr8

Apologies if this is a dumb question, but I just changed my cooling setup. I was using a fan controller to control 4 fans, but I have since replaced those with 3x 140mm fans, and all hooked into the fan headers on the motherboard. Right now I think the fans are running at max. What software do I use to control these? I thought it was Fan Xpert but I can't find a link to download it for the life of me? Any assistance would be great as I am a bit annoyed by the constant high RPM hum at the moment.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Apologies if this is a dumb question, but I just changed my cooling setup. I was using a fan controller to control 4 fans, but I have since replaced those with 3x 140mm fans, and all hooked into the fan headers on the motherboard. Right now I think the fans are running at max. What software do I use to control these? I thought it was Fan Xpert but I can't find a link to download it for the life of me? Any assistance would be great as I am a bit annoyed by the constant high RPM hum at the moment.


If you have an updated version of the AI suite 3 then you can use that to control your fans, set fan curves and so on. If you do not use AI suite 3 then you can use the OC panel to control the fans with the presets of normal, turbo, and max. Sometimes the OC panel does not work right when adjusting the fan settings but it does work, you just have to persistent. If you prefer a software fan controller and/or prefer to set your own fan curves you should check out Speedfan. You will need to read or watch a tutorial to figure out how to use it. You can find some videos on Youtube.

There are also some somewhat inexpensive fan controllers out there like the Grid+ by NZXT. I have one and it has done an awesome job of controlling my fans.
Other than that the more expensive option is to go with an aquero unit which works with both air and water cooling options, but that is a really expensive option.


----------



## dboythagr8

Where can I download AI Suite 3? It's not listed under the Black Edition support page anywhere, and googling doesn't bring up any links.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Where can I download AI Suite 3? It's not listed under the Black Edition support page anywhere, and googling doesn't bring up any links.


Go under the regular edition. Its not board specific.


----------



## Kimir

@MrTOOSHORT @HOMECINEMA-PC Got a link to share for that pre release bios? I'm gonna fire up the R4BE soon and I wouldn't mind trying it on that meh 4930K (4.4Ghz 1.4v, if I can drop that to 1.35v I'm good with that).
The R4BE+4930K and 980KPE are finally getting out of the closet! Got myself a Junsbo RM4 case and received it yesterday, now I've to list what do I need for the water loop and place my order at EK.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> @MrTOOSHORT @HOMECINEMA-PC Got a link to share for that pre release bios? I'm gonna fire up the R4BE soon and I wouldn't mind trying it on that meh 4930K (4.4Ghz 1.4v, if I can drop that to 1.35v I'm good with that).
> The R4BE+4930K and 980KPE are finally getting out of the closet! Got myself a Junsbo RM4 case and received it yesterday, now I've to list what do I need for the water loop and place my order at EK.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Here you go:
> 
> R4BE.zip 4911k .zip file
> 
> 
> 0208 with NVMe set up as R4BE.cap for usb flash back.
> 
> I've been using for a couple weeks, seems ok.
Click to expand...

Man , I managed to get [email protected]@1.335v using 125 strap that's .1 less than previously and [email protected]@1.31vc @ 100 strap with .020 offset volts and High LLC .


----------



## Kimir

thanks!


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Go under the regular edition. Its not board specific.


Finally found it and installed fan xpert. World of a difference. Thanks guys.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Man , I managed to get [email protected]@1.335v using 125 strap that's .1 less than previously and [email protected]@1.31vc @ 100 strap with .020 offset volts and High LLC .


That is a very nice oc!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Where can I download AI Suite 3? It's not listed under the Black Edition support page anywhere, and googling doesn't bring up any links.


Even though they claim they are working on a version of AI suite 3 for this board Asus seems to have dropped overall software and driver support for this board. Someone posted an updated version of AI suite 3 on here for me but I have not had the chance to check it out.
Ok, I tried attaching the zip file but the page would not accept it.

I searched through the pages of this thread and found the original post. Just go here and download the file from there. I can't promise it will work correctly but it should,

*On a side note to all:* is the *Xeon 1650 v2* a better chip on average than the 4930k?


----------



## Laithan

It has been my experience (and I know I'm not alone) that XEON CPUs are generally of a better bin quality. There's no guarantee that this would provide better overclocking but unless it's placebo, they do seem to all overclock pretty well. Would it be safe to say that ALL XEONs overclock well and only SOME i7's will, I don't know that we could safely say that either but I'd probably feel safe saying that your chances are slightly better with a XEON.

The CPUs are essentially IDENTICAL (even same cache) however the XEON supports 256GB ram where the 4930K is 64GB (although probably not of any concern)

Price seems identical also


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> That is a very nice oc!


I know right ! That pre release bios is the key to that lower vcore .



Also its the first time ive bothered to use 100 strap and 2400mhz ram speed on that o/c speed of 4.6Ghz .

Only taken me 2 YEARS to get around to it !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Even though they claim they are working on a version of AI suite 3 for this board Asus seems to have dropped overall software and driver support for this board. Someone posted an updated version of AI suite 3 on here for me but I have not had the chance to check it out.
> Ok, I tried attaching the zip file but the page would not accept it.
> 
> I searched through the pages of this thread and found the original post. Just go here and download the file from there. I can't promise it will work correctly but it should,
> 
> *On a side note to all:* is the *Xeon 1650 v2* a better chip on average than the 4930k?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> It has been my experience (and I know I'm not alone) that XEON CPUs are generally of a better bin quality. There's no guarantee that this would provide better overclocking but unless it's placebo, they do seem to all overclock pretty well. Would it be safe to say that ALL XEONs overclock well and only SOME i7's will, I don't know that we could safely say that either but I'd probably feel safe saying that your chances are slightly better with a XEON.
> 
> The CPUs are essentially IDENTICAL (even same cache) however the XEON supports 256GB ram where the 4930K is 64GB (although probably not of any concern)
> 
> Price seems identical also
Click to expand...

They also have quite a strong IMC which should allow you to reach 2800mhz + with the appropriate dram .

I run 2666Mhz Dom plats @ 11 13 13 1 28 for 2800Mhz







@ 1.7v


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Man , I managed to get [email protected]@1.335v using 125 strap that's .1 less than previously and [email protected]@1.31vc @ 100 strap with .020 offset volts and High LLC .


That bios is showing up as 0801 in cpu-z right?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> That bios is showing up as 0801 in cpu-z right?


Bios shows as 0208 in cpuz:


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Bios shows as 0208 in cpuz:


Hmm.. then it didn't flash for me.. How strange ;/


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Use the usb flash back method. Usb 2 stick formatted to fat 32, make sure the bios is named R4BE.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Hmm.. then it didn't flash for me.. How strange ;/


Try again mate . I powered down my rig put usb in top port next to clr button , hold button underneath until it starts to flash then release and wait


----------



## Laithan

Any ill effects from using a pre-release? I'm very tempted to try this one also but I can't stop thinking that a pre-release BIOS would be full of bugs would it not?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Any ill effects from using a pre-release? I'm very tempted to try this one also but I can't stop thinking that a pre-release BIOS would be full of bugs would it not?


No problems, dive in and try it.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

LooooL it knocked my vcore down 0.1 v


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Try again mate . I powered down my rig put usb in top port next to clr button , hold button underneath until it starts to flash then release and wait


Had to change usb stick.. lol
I'm up and running with the 0208 now aswell but no magic for me unfortunately, still 4,5 ghz at 1.425v :/


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

That's the 4930k not the 4960x yeah ?


----------



## Dwofzz

Yes that was with a 4930k since my 4960x died some time ago








But that should matter or should it? Since they are roughly the same cpu..


----------



## Laithan

How did it die if I may ask?


----------



## Dwofzz

Yes you may


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Yes you may


No but seriously, It was a faulty ship from the factory... It died on boot just 8 weeks after I got it


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> No but seriously, It was a faulty ship from the factory... It died on boot just 8 weeks after I got it


LOL Thank you kind sir









Ya that sucks especially if you had a loop or a PIA cooler.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> That's the 4930k not the 4960x yeah ?


Your old 4960x settings are slighty modified for my 4960x o/c settings . I gather your 4930k wont boot on those either ?


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Your old 4960x settings are slighty modified for my 4960x o/c settings . I gather your 4930k wont boot on those either ?


Nope, I have to force this 4930k to do 4.5 GHz stable









And 4.6 GHz would need 1.52v ( not on cold tho ) did 4.6 GHz at 1.44v ~ when the cpu was -30 degrees but in a 24/7 scenario this chip is a bummer.. To bad tho since I like my RIVBE more then my RVE 10 Edition.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Nope, I have to force this 4930k to do 4.5 GHz stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And 4.6 GHz would need 1.52v ( not on cold tho ) did 4.6 GHz at 1.44v ~ when the cpu was -30 degrees but in a 24/7 scenario this chip is a bummer.. To bad tho since I like my RIVBE more then my RVE 10 Edition.


That sux man . Sounds like your cpu came off the edge of the silicon wafer









Look the only upgrade to my RIVBE set up will be a 2670 , 2667 v2 .

Everything else ( x99 bla bla ) is just not cost effective when this has run so well for me


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> That sux man . Sounds like your cpu came off the edge of the silicon wafer


Seems like it, But it served me well in 2 years as a backup from the 4960x ( but that chip was a 5 GHz chip.... ) And that bothers me to this day since the RIVBE is such a nice motherboard and in my case it is sooooo gimped by the cpu.. I almost feel bad for it


----------



## dboythagr8

Do you guys plan to jump on Skylake-X, or keep using the RIVBE?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Do you guys plan to jump on Skylake-X, or keep using the RIVBE?


Well to be honest ..........



I will need the 10 core to bench and that silicon is waaaay to expensive . Let alone the asus board and really good DDR4 ram .

My RIVBE setup has performed faultlessly for years now . The only upgrade I'm contemplating is a Ivybee 8 or 10 core


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Well to be honest ..........
> 
> 
> 
> I will need the 10 core to bench and that silicon is waaaay to expensive . Let alone the asus board and really good DDR4 ram .
> 
> My RIVBE setup has performed faultlessly for years now . The only upgrade I'm contemplating is a Ivybee 8 or 10 core


Wait...there's a Ivy-E 8 core?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Wait...there's a Ivy-E 8 core?


Xenon


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Xenon


Does it take a special BIOS version to run?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Does it take a special BIOS version to run?




Okay RIVBE came after E5-2667 so it should boot , I don't have one yet so I'm not sure if I will have dramas or not : ->

@MrTOOSHORT you would def know about that


----------



## Jpmboy

hey, I took the SupremeFX DAC that comes with the R5E-10 and installed it in my R4BE, which continues to be my main day, work, office rig (it's benching days are done...







). Anyway, the DAC really improves sound quality thru my custom IEMs, a pair of Ultimate Ears Tf10s, and Bose Headphones.


----------



## Kimir

I'm not surprised, that DAC is said to be top notch even by audiophile. I've read somewhere that the chosen component alone are worth of a $150 DAC.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Okay RIVBE came after E5-2667 so it should boot , I don't have one yet so I'm not sure if I will have dramas or not : ->
> 
> @MrTOOSHORT you would def know about that


Here you go : https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download
The 0801 bios from there would cover your needs m8


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Here you go : https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download
> The 0801 bios from there would cover your needs m8


Thank you V much


----------



## dboythagr8

What's the best way to determine 4930k performance in games? I don't think I am being bottlenecked in anyway, but with my 1080Ti on the way, I'm just curious.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> What's the best way to determine 4930k performance in games? I don't think I am being bottlenecked in anyway, but with my 1080Ti on the way, I'm just curious.


With one or even two cards you don't have to worry if you have a decent overclocked 4930k


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I'm not surprised, that DAC is said to be top notch even by audiophile. I've read somewhere that the chosen component alone are worth of a $150 DAC.


hey Kimir, there's a review at Audiophile? Cool, thanks!


----------



## Dwofzz

Do you guys know what size the screws for the vrm heatsink and io shield are?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> hey Kimir, there's a review at Audiophile? Cool, thanks!


Maaaate Howsitgoin ?









Post a pic of this DAC thingy pls if you can spare the moment !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Do you guys know what size the screws for the vrm heatsink and io shield are?


Small ones ? LooooL


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Maaaate Howsitgoin ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post a pic of this DAC thingy pls if you can spare the moment !
> Small ones ? LooooL


I know m8 xD but i seem to lost my set of screws for the rivbe :/


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> I know m8 xD but *i seem to lost my set of screws* for the rivbe :/


Its a sign of Alzheimer's you have there


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Its a sign of Alzheimer's you have there


Well I probably did put them somewhere "smart" when I installed the wb on it two decades ago lool


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Well I probably did put them somewhere "smart" when I installed the wb on it two decades ago lool


----------



## airisom2

Did X58 last this long? This August will mark 5 years of being on X79 and I still don't see any chipset worth upgrading to. Quad channel DDR3 still offers gobs of bandwidth and throughput, we have plenty of lanes, overclocked Sandy's and Ivy's won't bottleneck at 4K (probably stock too unless you're running poorly threaded games), R4BE can use PCIe NVMe, and we still have really good I/O options.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Best DDR3 board Asus made


----------



## alancsalt

I've got aUSB Audioengine DAC. Only problem was Windows 10 turning off USB ports (powersaving setting). Took a bit of setting searching before it stopped doing that.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airisom2*
> 
> Did X58 last this long? This August will mark 5 years of being on X79 and I still don't see any chipset worth upgrading to. Quad channel DDR3 still offers gobs of bandwidth and throughput, we have plenty of lanes, overclocked Sandy's and Ivy's won't bottleneck at 4K (probably stock too unless you're running poorly threaded games), R4BE can use PCIe NVMe, and we still have really good I/O options.


You know, I've been thinking that lately myself. While my Ivy Bridge-e may not be benchmark-worthy anymore, it's MORE THAN sufficient for any real world use, and being that I kinda won the silicon lottery with this generation, I've been thinking lately that rather than upgrading my whole system to Skylake-X later this year or next, I might just dump a thousand bucks into a shiny new 1080ti or Titan XV and milk my X79 system for a few more years. It really has held up well, despite a few minor irritations (i.e. no real pci-e3 support, too few SATA6 ports, etc).

And for the record, I think I've had this system longer now than I had the x58 Nehalem system that preceded it.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Maaaate Howsitgoin ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post a pic of this DAC thingy pls if you can spare the moment !
> Small ones ? LooooL


well... it's actually in a case... of all crazy things. but here's a snip from the asus website:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






hey - good to see you back for a visit!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I've got aUSB Audioengine DAC. Only problem was Windows 10 turning off USB ports (powersaving setting). Took a bit of setting searching before it stopped doing that.


lol - I have a different issue since installing the DAC. All USB ports are set to sleep for power savings...I use a "blank" screensaver just to cut the light at night and now it will not enter screen saver mode at all. I can manually "Preview" and it works fine.. and stays Blank. Strange. Maybe I should try to set the USB power the other way?


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> You know, I've been thinking that lately myself. While my Ivy Bridge-e may not be benchmark-worthy anymore, it's MORE THAN sufficient for any real world use, and being that I kinda won the silicon lottery with this generation, I've been thinking lately that rather than upgrading my whole system to Skylake-X later this year or next, I might just dump a thousand bucks into a shiny new 1080ti or Titan XV and milk my X79 system for a few more years. It really has held up well, despite a few minor irritations (i.e. no real pci-e3 support, too few SATA6 ports, etc).
> 
> And for the record, I think I've had this system longer now than I had the x58 Nehalem system that preceded it.


This is kind of where I'm at. I don't do anything but game on my system really. The only reason I upgraded from Z68 to this platform was because I went to tri-SLI Titan Blacks, and needed the functionality and lanes of X79. This was the best X79 board at the time, so here we are. Since then I've thrown numerous configs at it, and it's been no problem. Going on 3 years now with this system. Put in a 1080ti yesterday, and got another one set to arrive tomorrow










The only reason I'd upgrade is just because the platform _is_ going on half a decade old. That somewhat bothers the tech enthusiast in me.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> This is kind of where I'm at. I don't do anything but game on my system really. The only reason I upgraded from Z68 to this platform was because I went to tri-SLI Titan Blacks, and needed the functionality and lanes of X79. This was the best X79 board at the time, so here we are. Since then I've thrown numerous configs at it, and it's been no problem. Going on 3 years now with this system. Put in a 1080ti yesterday, and got another one set to arrive tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only reason I'd upgrade is just because the platform is going on half a decade old. That somewhat bothers the tech enthusiast in me.


Exactly. The hardware enthusiast in me desperately wants a shiny new Skylake-e system with nvme etc, but the realist in me realizes that the moment I power on that shiny new $3k build the first thought in my mind is going to be "ok, but is this really any better than what I already had?" Also, the down side of having custom watercooling is that breaking down the system and rebuilding a new one is not only terribly expensive, but it's a lot of painstaking hard work, which is all the more reason to realize that X79, although dated, is still holding up really well. I feel like with an updated gpu this system could be good as new for everything except competitive benchmarking for at least another 2 years.

While it may not be on par with the Enthusiast class hardware of today, I feel like it's still on par with or better than the highest end of the mainstream segment of today.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Exactly. The hardware enthusiast in me desperately wants a shiny new Skylake-e system with nvme etc, but the realist in me realizes that the moment I power on that shiny new $3k build the first thought in my mind is going to be "ok, but is this really any better than what I already had?" Also, the down side of having custom watercooling is that breaking down the system and rebuilding a new one is not only terribly expensive, but it's a lot of painstaking hard work, which is all the more reason to realize that X79, although dated, is still holding up really well. I feel like with an updated gpu this system could be good as new for everything except competitive benchmarking for at least another 2 years.
> 
> While it may not be on par with the Enthusiast class hardware of today, I feel like it's still on par with or better than the highest end of the mainstream segment of today.


I feel like my 1080Ti SLI RIVBE system will be able to hang with any of the enthusiast class hardware of 2017


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I feel like my 1080Ti SLI RIVBE system will be able to hang with any of the enthusiast class hardware of 2017


From a gaming/graphics perspective, definitely. Just don't try to play with the new kids on cpu/memory benching.


----------



## Dwofzz

So, Finaly I managed to get my 2133 MHz ram kit to work with 2666 MHz and 4.5 GHz on the 4930k and I'm telling you this system runs super PI 32M 1m19s faster then my x99 system with a 4.6/3.7 GHz 6850k and 3400 MHz ram... So right now I'm sitting here wondering why did I even upgrade lol


----------



## Laithan

There hasn't been any revolutionary CPU developments since Quad cores (referring to CPUs only)... Re-branding the same tech, giving new "features" nobody asked for or needed....adding more cores because that's all they could do... It doesn't surprise me at ALL that x79 is still considered "current technology"... I agree there's almost zero reason to upgrade other than synthetic benchies..


----------



## Dwofzz

And btw the onboard audio on the RIVBE is faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar better than the RV-10 onboard sound.. That's a bummer as well


----------



## Kimir

Perhaps that's why they put the DAC with the R5E10, don't you think?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> 
> So, Finaly I managed to get my 2133 MHz ram kit to work with 2666 MHz and 4.5 GHz on the 4930k and I'm telling you this system runs super PI 32M 1m19s faster then my x99 system with a 4.6/3.7 GHz 6850k and 3400 MHz ram... So right now I'm sitting here wondering why did I even upgrade lol


SPi uses a single thread (only) and moves very little data thru the ram. compare your rigs with AID64 memory bandwidth test, and you should see a significant difference in bandwidth - propbably more relevant to a HEDT gaming rig running at high resolutions.


----------



## r0k0

Hey guys i'm new to this forum, just curious if anyone knows if we can use the debug LED for showing CPU temps ?

i remember on one of my old ones we could.. maybe the X38 Maximus or something.. ( the one that had the Northbridge waterblock from factory )

here are my current specs

Intel Core I7 3930K @ 4.0
Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
2x 8GB Corsair Dominator RED/BLACK
eVGA GTX 690
Corsair LE 480GB SSD
WD Black 1TB HDD
eVGA EX750G
Inwin 303 Case


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> SPi uses a single thread (only) and moves very little data thru the ram. compare your rigs with AID64 memory bandwidth test, and you should see a significant difference in bandwidth - propbably more relevant to a HEDT gaming rig running at high resolutions.


I gain 6000 MB/s in general with the x99 over the x79. But the x79 is faster in RB as well.. 29-43-46 sec ( x79) vs 37-41-48 (x99)


----------



## dboythagr8

I definitely need to upgrade my RAM. Sitting at 1600 :x

And I've been using my xonar DG soundcard for years. Surely that's better than the onboard audio on the RIVBE.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> I gain 6000 MB/s in general with the x99 over the x79. But the x79 is faster in RB as well.. 29-43-46 sec ( x79) vs 37-41-48 (x99)


something weird going on there with your 6850K... any BWE should top the IBE in single thread comparos, even with the BWE at a lower frequency.
That said, IBE/x79 is still very relevant and as mentioned, outside of Bs-out benchmarking, is an extremely capable set up. I keep my 4960X at 4.7 with 1.375V. Been that way for a _very_ long time.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0k0*
> 
> Hey guys i'm new to this forum, just curious if anyone knows if we can *use the debug LED for showing CPU temps ?*
> 
> i remember on one of my old ones we could.. maybe the X38 Maximus or something.. ( the one that had the Northbridge waterblock from factory )
> 
> here are my current specs
> 
> Intel Core I7 3930K @ 4.0
> Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
> 2x 8GB Corsair Dominator RED/BLACK
> eVGA GTX 690
> Corsair LE 480GB SSD
> WD Black 1TB HDD
> eVGA EX750G
> Inwin 303 Case


----------



## dboythagr8

WELP

Looks like I'm hitting a CPU bottleneck somewhere. In BF1 my GPU usage on some maps is 99% as you'd expect, but on others, specifically the new Premium maps, usage sometimes is in the upper 80s. It's not until I mess with the resolution slider to downsample a bit does it stay at a constant 99%.

And this is with a single 1080ti. At 2560x1440. I'm expecting my 2nd one today. The time might have finally come....to upgrade CPU. I'm averaging ~130fps on Ultra in BF1 even with the slight bottleneck. 100fps in Heaven.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> WELP
> 
> Looks like I'm hitting a CPU bottleneck somewhere. In BF1 my GPU usage on some maps is 99% as you'd expect, but on others, specifically the new Premium maps, usage sometimes is in the upper 80s. It's not until I mess with the resolution slider to downsample a bit does it stay at a constant 99%.
> 
> And this is with a single 1080ti. At 2560x1440. I'm expecting my 2nd one today. The time might have finally come....to upgrade CPU. I'm averaging ~130fps on Ultra in BF1 even with the slight bottleneck. 100fps in Heaven.


Do you run the game in dx12?


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Do you run the game in dx12?


Yeah I did yesterday, good reminder. I think the utilization was better. I'll have to try again now that I'm fully alert.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Yeah I did yesterday, good reminder. I think the utilization was better. I'll have to try again now that I'm fully alert.


with sli don't.. Dx12 don't have sli support..


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> WELP
> 
> Looks like I'm hitting a CPU bottleneck somewhere. In BF1 my GPU usage on some maps is 99% as you'd expect, but on others, specifically the new Premium maps, usage sometimes is in the upper 80s. It's not until I mess with the resolution slider to downsample a bit does it stay at a constant 99%.
> 
> And this is with a single 1080ti. At 2560x1440. I'm expecting my 2nd one today. The time might have finally come....to upgrade CPU. I'm averaging ~130fps on Ultra in BF1 even with the slight bottleneck. 100fps in Heaven.


Running more cores in an upgrade will probably help, but running the same number ofd cores, and a likely lower frequency on a new platform is not gonna fix the bottleneck appreciably. You also might want to check AB for limit kick-in... power, voltage or temperature. This can lower the usage until the "no limit" condition is met. Was/is a very common problem with the TXP when air cooled. Water cooling fixes it.
Then, in AB set your OC then place you mouse over the chart window, hit cntrl-F, select the 1050mV point and hit cntrl-L, then Apply. this is lock the gpu in P0 with max boost clocks.


----------



## Dwofzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Do you guys know what size the screws for the vrm heatsink and io shield are?


Found them!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwofzz*
> 
> Found them!


Luckies u


----------



## Laithan

A pile of E5-1680 V2s showed up on the bay... expensive but cheaper than usual...

For those that don't know, it's an 8-core, 16-thread IVY-e that's unlocked...

It's NOT my listing but since I'm eyeballing it I thought I would share


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I definitely need to upgrade my RAM. Sitting at 1600 :x
> 
> And I've been using my xonar DG soundcard for years. Surely that's better than the onboard audio on the RIVBE.


Yes you need 2400 2666 sticks. Get 4x8gb so you know for sure they are double sided. Faster ram helps with fps


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Okay [email protected] 10 12 11 24 1t , Gonna need sumthin special for 9 12 11 24


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Yes you need 2400 2666 sticks. Get 4x8gb so you know for sure they are double sided. Faster ram helps with fps


I realize I need new RAM, but i have a hard time dropping the $$$ on what is essentially being phased out.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I realize I need new RAM, but i have a hard time dropping the $$$ on what is essentially being phased out.


check the OCN market place... used sticks show up all the time. I've seen the GSkill trident DDR3 2400c9 kit there a couple of times.


----------



## dboythagr8

Overlooked the Marketplace! Will keep my eye on it, thanks.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Okay [email protected] 10 12 11 24 1t , Gonna need sumthin special for 9 12 11 24


What ram are you using? Corsair Dom Plats CL8 or CL9? I have the 2133 CL8's, and they can do 2400 CL9, but I can't squeeze them to 2400 CL8 to save my life. So I pretty much just leave them at 2133 CL8.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> What ram are you using? Corsair Dom Plats CL8 or CL9? I have the 2133 CL8's, and they can do 2400 CL9, but I can't squeeze them to 2400 CL8 to save my life. So I pretty much just leave them at 2133 CL8.


Some good sticks right there!









I have the 2666 CL10 and 2400 CL9 doms.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Some good sticks right there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the 2666 CL10 and 2400 CL9 doms.


Yeah, they are good. I figured if I'm going to squeeze more life out of them, the only way I could do that without feeling left out of the DDR4 movement was to get the fastest DDR3 money could buy. It's also why I have just 8gb, as the 2133 CL8 sets are still quite rare & pricey.


----------



## Kimir

2133c8 is mighty fast already, it's what I use on mine, which are the tridents 2600C10. I avoid 2400 because of the glitch in write speed.


----------



## dboythagr8

Are these my only options for 16GB DDR3 2400?

https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007611%20600551113%20600006073

Supply is drying up fast. I don't want to spend $200+ on 32GB when there's a real possibility I'll move to the Skylake-X platform.

Or there's these if I drop to 2133

https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007611%20600006073%20600536667

e: I found these https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233531&ignorebbr=1

thinking of ordering 2 for 16gb. any objections to these? comes out to $133. Is there a noticeable difference between the ddr3 1600 im running now?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Are these my only options for 16GB DDR3 2400?
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007611%20600551113%20600006073
> 
> Supply is drying up fast. I don't want to spend $200+ on 32GB when there's a real possibility I'll move to the Skylake-X platform.
> 
> Or there's these if I drop to 2133
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007611%20600006073%20600536667
> 
> e: I found these https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233531&ignorebbr=1
> 
> thinking of ordering 2 for 16gb. any objections to these? comes out to $133. Is there a noticeable difference between the ddr3 1600 im running now?


If you only use two sticks of RAM it will only run in dual channel. If you want to enjoy the full benefit of this RAM you should go with 4 sticks in whatever configuration you prefer, that way the RAM will run in quad channel. You can get 4 sticks if 4gb for a total of 16 gb.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> If you only use two sticks of RAM it will only run in dual channel. If you want to enjoy the full benefit of this RAM you should go with 4 sticks in whatever configuration you prefer, that way the RAM will run in quad channel. You can get 4 sticks if 4gb for a total of 16 gb.


I wasn't clear but that is what I meant. I can't find a set with 4x4 for 16GB, so I was just going to order two sets of the Vengeance Pro. Comes out the same just in two different packages.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I wasn't clear but that is what I meant. I can't find a set with 4x4 for 16GB, so I was just going to order two sets of the Vengeance Pro. Comes out the same just in two different packages.


Mixing sets of memory doesn't always work out the way you think it will, but if you're leaving them at stock rated speed you should be ok.


----------



## Laithan

What about the G.SKILL Ripjaw-Z for this board?
It is what I run f3-19200c10-8gbzhd

It seems many others use these for X79 also

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231586


----------



## Madmaxneo

@dboythagr8
Here is a search page for 4 x 4gb of DDR3 RAM with both 2133mhz and 2400mhz selected. Only look at the ones with prices. The ones without prices are basically out of stock everywhere.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> What ram are you using? Corsair Dom Plats CL8 or CL9? I have the 2133 CL8's, and they can do 2400 CL9, but I can't squeeze them to 2400 CL8 to save my life. So I pretty much just leave them at 2133 CL8.


Dom plats cl11 2666 . Tried many different configs and cl9 just wont hold







....... yet


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> 2133c8 is mighty fast already, it's what I use on mine, which are the tridents 2600C10. I avoid 2400 because of the glitch in write speed.


I agree. 2133c8 with very tight secondaries is the sweet spot for ram on my r4be also. been at that speed for years now. 2400c9 on occasion but the write glitch needs to be checked for every time... just not worth it.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Nice to see you in this thread Jpmboy!









Other threads seem like slow activity, over read too much on Ryzen, lost interest there.

The 1080ti launch, same four people posting in that thread.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @dboythagr8
> Here is a search page for 4 x 4gb of DDR3 RAM with both 2133mhz and 2400mhz selected. Only look at the ones with prices. The ones without prices are basically out of stock everywhere.


Thanks! I couldn't get to this at work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Nice to see you in this thread Jpmboy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other threads seem like slow activity, over read too much on Ryzen, lost interest there.
> 
> The 1080ti launch, same four people posting in that thread.


----------



## Shadowarez

Haven't been here forever has there ever been a modded bios with nvme or updated raid ROM that will allow trim through raid?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Haven't been here forever has there ever been a modded bios with nvme or updated raid ROM that will allow trim through raid?


Here you go : https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download


----------



## Shadowarez

Thank you I couldn't find that page for life of me in early days that's were I went for my bios support in getting over higher. Finally topped out at 4.8ghz with 30c idle 66 load on all cores if I'm pushing it.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Thank you I couldn't find that page for life of me in early days that's were I went for my bios support in getting over higher. Finally topped out at 4.8ghz with 30c idle 66 load on all cores if I'm pushing it.


No problem at all .

How did you go about getting 4.8 with blck 125 or 100 with multi ??


----------



## Shadowarez

100 multi haven't touched bclk all that much always became unstable to point had to reset CMOS just to get back in bios that reminds me there's a good OC guide on that same rig forum for this board.

It's been rock solid for nearly 5 years I bought board day one it came out. Honestly was only comp I built that went together like a dream not a single hitch. I'm waiting to upgrade pcie 4 maybe Zen+ since Intel i7's are starting to cost as much as used cars looking at you 6950x for $2350 CND lol.when I bought my 4969x it was $1150.


----------



## Laithan

Forgive me if this has already been previously answered.

RIVBE - The pre-release BIOS 0208 that was modded and posted here a few pages ago and this one at the ROG thread...

What's the difference besides the versions? For example I know it was mentioned that NVMe support was added to the 0208 BIOS and also in the ROG BIOS' but it just says "NVMe testing" in the ROG thread.. Is the code in 0208 newer or the same? I am running an IVY-e xeon (E5-1650 V2) and it sounds like the inclusion of the new CPU codes might be referring to IVY-e support since it came after SB-e..

*So for MOD BIOS' it seems there are 3 choices.. There is the pre-release 0208, 0701 and 0801...*

Does anyone have experience with using these and have any feedback? I know we've got some good feedback already about 0208 such as "allow for the same overclock but using less voltage".

I have door #1, door #2 and door #3 staring at me and I'm curious if there's a "clear winner" here... Is it easy to say "this one is better than that one + reason" or too hard to say?

Thank you in advance!

PS. I am running 0701 STOCK now


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Forgive me if this has already been previously answered.
> 
> RIVBE - The pre-release BIOS 0208 that was modded and posted here a few pages ago and this one at the ROG thread...
> 
> What's the difference besides the versions? For example I know it was mentioned that NVMe support was added to the 0208 BIOS and also in the ROG BIOS' but it just says "NVMe testing" in the ROG thread.. Is the code in 0208 newer or the same? I am running an IVY-e xeon (E5-1650 V2) and it sounds like the inclusion of the new CPU codes might be referring to IVY-e support since it came after SB-e..
> 
> *So for MOD BIOS' it seems there are 3 choices.. There is the pre-release 0208, 0701 and 0801...*
> 
> Does anyone have experience with using these and have any feedback? I know we've got some good feedback already about 0208 such as "allow for the same overclock but using less voltage".
> 
> I have door #1, door #2 and door #3 staring at me and I'm curious if there's a "clear winner" here... Is it easy to say "this one is better than that one + reason" or too hard to say?
> 
> Thank you in advance!
> 
> PS. I am running 0701 STOCK now


All the bios' have Nvme support except 0208 natively for R4BE, so it was added by me so I can use the bios with an Intel 750 Mvme.

Not sure why there is a fuss in that other thread about added support for Nvme, when Nvme just works.


----------



## Chucklez

I cant believe this thread is still alive for this mobo! Mines still very much alive and kicking running my 4930K at 4.5GHz rock solid! Definitely my favorite mobo I've owned to date!

My current setup!


Waiting on Vega then ill be trading in those 7970's for HOPEFULLY 2 Vega GPU's if my wallet can afford it haha!


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Nice to see you in this thread Jpmboy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other threads seem like slow activity, over read too much on Ryzen, lost interest there.
> 
> The 1080ti launch, same four people posting in that thread.


I keep forgetting to keep this tab open (among more than 2 dozen). Sad to say my R4BE/4960X has become a work/play horse since leaving the track... it deserves more







. It's just been so "event" free for so long now that I forget to pet it once in a while. Typical, right?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> All the bios' have Nvme support except 0208 natively for R4BE, so it was added by me so I can use the bios with an Intel 750 Mvme.
> 
> Not sure why there is a fuss in that other thread about added support for Nvme, when Nvme just works.


Thanks!








Just to be clear, you also have an IVY-e E5 so I guess I can also assume 0208 also has all the "latest CPU micro codes"?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Have no idea about CPU micro codes, loaded up the pre bios one day, it worked with my 1680 V2, but the Intel750 wasn't seen. So learned how to implement the Nvme firmware into the bios from googling around, then added it to 0208. Now the Intel 750 is seen and is working great.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, you also have an IVY-e E5 so I guess I can also assume 0208 also has all the "latest CPU micro codes"?


the microcode can be either a bios update, or windows 10 will use the more recent one. It's pretty common to have one uC version in bios then see windows using a different one.

@MrTOOSHORT - you know, after seeing your watercooled 750 I never really made the connection to the NVMe firmware needed for it to be running on the R4BE. Nice work!


----------



## Shadowarez

quick question to guys who use the pcie, can i sli 16x16 in slots 1-3 and use my intel 900 800 gb and say a m.2 adapter witha sm961 1 tb or will the cards drop down to 8x8 pcie in slot 1-3 ? i cant get away from this board its too gdamn strong,

hasnt quit since day she was built, so i want to give it some more healthy upgrades to keep her ticking till pcie 4 and xpoint dimms come out then itll be my new server unless naples is affordable,


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Forgive me if this has already been previously answered.
> 
> RIVBE - The pre-release BIOS 0208 that was modded and posted here a few pages ago and this one at the ROG thread...
> 
> What's the difference besides the versions? For example I know it was mentioned that NVMe support was added to the 0208 BIOS and also in the ROG BIOS' but it just says "NVMe testing" in the ROG thread.. Is the code in 0208 newer or the same? I am running an IVY-e xeon (E5-1650 V2) and it sounds like the inclusion of the new CPU codes might be referring to IVY-e support since it came after SB-e..
> 
> *So for MOD BIOS' it seems there are 3 choices.. There is the pre-release 0208, 0701 and 0801...*
> 
> Does anyone have experience with using these and have any feedback? I know we've got some good feedback already about 0208 such as "allow for the same overclock but using less voltage".
> 
> I have door #1, door #2 and door #3 staring at me and I'm curious if there's a "clear winner" here... Is it easy to say "this one is better than that one + reason" or too hard to say?
> 
> Thank you in advance!
> 
> PS. I am running 0701 STOCK now


Door # 1 208

Always go for LESS vcore if your silicon likes 208 ofc









#Makeupyourownmind


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> the microcode can be either a bios update, or windows 10 will use the more recent one. It's pretty common to have one uC version in bios then see windows using a different one.


I wouldn't touch Windows 10 if you paid me







Running Windows 7 here (and loving it).

It still sounds like 0208 would probably at least post so I don't think it would be a brick if I flashed since the E5 1680v2 was just fine... why wouldn't the E5 1650v2 also be fine









Thank you

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Door # 1 208
> 
> Always go for LESS vcore if your silicon likes 208 ofc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #Makeupyourownmind


Thanks, I think I'm going to try it once I get my taxes done (don't want mess with that now lol). I remember whatever BIOS the board came with (was older than 0701 but newer than 0208) allowed me to reach 4.8Ghz with HT on... When I flashed 0701 I could only manage 4.75Ghz... and I didn't make a big deal about it so I'm still on 0701 but I wonder if I could get my 4.8Ghz back AND less voltage


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I wouldn't touch Windows 10 if you paid me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running Windows 7 here (and loving it).
> 
> It still sounds like 0208 would probably at least post so I don't think it would be a brick if I flashed since the E5 1680v2 was just fine... why wouldn't the E5 1650v2 also be fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> Thanks, I think I'm going to try it once I get my taxes done (don't want mess with that now lol). I remember whatever BIOS the board came with (was older than 0701 but newer than 0208) allowed me to reach 4.8Ghz with HT on... When I flashed 0701 I could only manage 4.75Ghz... and I didn't make a big deal about it so I'm still on 0701 but I wonder if I could get my 4.8Ghz back AND less voltage


No worries at all !!

I gotta .1 decrease for 4.6 and 4.735 ........

Been on win 10 for a year now after the win 7 played up .

Mind you that OS was the one I had been benching on for many years on my RIVE









EDIT : Oh yeah 701 was the bios I was running prev o/clocks and .1 vc higher


----------



## Shadowarez

Anyone have any experience with this? If so does that patch still exist to force gen 3 pcie 16x I had it for win 7 just want to make sure GPUs are in full speed


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with this? If so does that patch still exist to force gen 3 pcie 16x I had it for win 7 just want to make sure GPUs are in full speed


You have 4960x. No patch needed


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with this? If so does that patch still exist to force gen 3 pcie 16x I had it for win 7 just want to make sure GPUs are in full speed


I have it somewhere









I know why its delete .......


----------



## Shadowarez

Ok win win 7 I had to patch after a format but that's when I had duel 680 GTX 4gb cards ATM gpuz is showing first card 16x 2nd at 1x but that's prob because I haven't got the bridge yet should be in Tuesday Wednesday then I can do some testing.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Ok win win 7 I had to patch after a format but that's when I had duel 680 GTX 4gb cards ATM gpuz is showing first card 16x 2nd at 1x but that's prob because I haven't got the bridge yet should be in Tuesday Wednesday then I can do some testing.


the slots will downgrade to x1.1 when there is no load.


----------



## Shadowarez

nice thought it was buggin out, should ther ebe enough pcie lanes to add a m.2 ssd with adapter?

my setup would look like this,

pcie 1 -evga titan x hybrid
pcie 2 intel 900 800gb pcie ssd
pcie 3 Asus Titan X
pcie 4 pcie m.s2 adapter


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> nice thought it was buggin out, should ther ebe enough pcie lanes to add a m.2 ssd with adapter?
> 
> my setup would look like this,
> 
> pcie 1 -evga titan x hybrid
> pcie 2 intel 900 800gb pcie ssd
> pcie 3 Asus Titan X
> pcie 5 pcie m.s2 adapter


pg 1-23 in the manual.


----------



## Shadowarez

yeah just looked it up wasn't 5 lol basicly ill be usin all pcie slots, will that downgrade then gpus to 8x8 pcie?


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> yeah just looked it up wasn't 5 lol basicly ill be usin all pcie slots, will that downgrade then gpus to 8x8 pcie?


are you asking whether occupying the PCIEX1 slots affects lane distribution to the PCIEX8/16 slots? - no.
no it does not.. but that's not what you asked originally.








And in you recent edit.. I doubt you have your titan in a PCIEx1 slot. LOL

Just put all the cards in the long slots, with your GPUs in the first long one and the other in the third long one counting from the cpu. the disk cards can go anywhere else (they fit).


----------



## Laithan

Try using the PCI-e lane simulator built into the BIOS


----------



## Shadowarez

if i put the m.2 pcie ssd lane sim shows it will drop slot 3 down to 8x


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> 
> 
> if i put the m.2 pcie ssd lane sim shows it will drop slot 3 down to 8x


that's what the lane distribution table shows. very little to no change in graphics performance at x8 vs x16


----------



## Shadowarez

ok and titans wont push that hard sli is dyng i just hope these support multi gpu in vulkan at least if not ill retire one to the htpc i guess


----------



## Jpmboy

unles you are doing 4K surround, - no where near saturating the PCIE bandwidth.


----------



## Shadowarez

hardest work itll be doing is gaming on my 4K tv just wanted t omake sure it had enough power to do that even if i gota lower settings,


----------



## Laithan

Filling all the PCI-e slots, (I didn't check) but you just need to make sure your GPU doesn't get forced down to 4x when all your devices are installed because you WILL be bottle-necked there with 4x...

As far as the difference between 8x and 16x, I can personally vouch, on this same RIVBE motherboard, that going from 8x to 16x on my 2nd GPU in SLI gave me 0% performance/score difference (I test mostly @ 4K).


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Filling all the PCI-e slots, (I didn't check) but you just need to make sure your GPU doesn't get forced down to 4x when all your devices are installed because you WILL be bottle-necked there with 4x...
> 
> As far as the difference between 8x and 16x, I can personally vouch, on this same RIVBE motherboard, that going from 8x to 16x on my 2nd GPU in SLI gave me 0% performance/score difference (I test mostly @ 4K).


never seen x4 happen even with 4 cards. Lane management on the BE is very strong (better than x99 imo).


----------



## scottiescotsman

Well it was the GPU's









So I went and bought 2 x evga GeForce titan hydro copper cards, but want a third but cant find an evga backplate and cooler for the other titan card I bought.

Also I have Corsair 8x8 64GB 2400Hz ram but sometimes it only sees 6x8, and when it does see 8x8 it poops the bios back to default settings.

So you think its the bios or ?

Thanks in advance


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Re seat the ram that's no being recognized


----------



## Rayce185

Hey guys I'm having some serious problems with the RIVBE and the 4930K:
The boot is stuck at either post code 01 or 5A, but with the latter appearing much more frequent.

The boot is stuck with a black screen, switching to the second BIOS doesn't help either.

This happened yesterday, although the system was working flawlessly a few hours earlier. Waiting another few hours it worked again, but this morning it started with the error codes and hasn't been able to start since.

Having the phase change system on or off while booting doesn't make a difference.

Can anyone tell me what's going on and how to fix it? I seriously doubt the components are damaged. They have been working for over a year without any hickups at 40x100MHz...


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Hey guys I'm having some serious problems with the RIVBE and the 4930K:
> The boot is stuck at either post code 01 or 5A, but with the latter appearing much more frequent.
> 
> The boot is stuck with a black screen, switching to the second BIOS doesn't help either.
> 
> This happened yesterday, although the system was working flawlessly a few hours earlier. Waiting another few hours it worked again, but this morning it started with the error codes and hasn't been able to start since.
> 
> Having the phase change system on or off while booting doesn't make a difference.
> 
> Can anyone tell me what's going on and how to fix it? I seriously doubt the components are damaged. They have been working for over a year without any hickups at 40x100MHz...


did you simply press the clrcmos button and try to boot with Defaults?


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> did you simply press the clrcmos button and try to boot with Defaults?


Sorry, I forgot to add that the second BIOS is running on default settings. Pressing the CLRCMOS doesn't help either, unfortunately, but thanks for the input.


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Sorry, I forgot to add that the second BIOS is running on default settings. Pressing the CLRCMOS doesn't help either, unfortunately, but thanks for the input.


yeah.. if it will not post at optimized defaults/ or after a clear cmos, and assuming you have not added any new hardware, some component has failed.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Hey guys I'm having some serious problems with the RIVBE and the 4930K:
> The boot is stuck at either post code 01 or 5A, but with the latter appearing much more frequent.
> 
> The boot is stuck with a black screen, switching to the second BIOS doesn't help either.
> 
> This happened yesterday, although the system was working flawlessly a few hours earlier. Waiting another few hours it worked again, but this morning it started with the error codes and hasn't been able to start since.
> 
> *Having the phase change system on or off* while booting doesn't make a difference.
> 
> Can anyone tell me what's going on and how to fix it? I seriously doubt the components are damaged. They have been working for over a year without any hickups at 40x100MHz...


Umm has the Phase been running ? Id be looking for condensation on your cpu or around there somewhere


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Umm has the Phase been running ? Id be looking for condensation on your cpu or around there somewhere


^^ good point. ya'd think a guy running phase would know about this.


----------



## Rayce185

The system and the phase change has been running flawlessly for over a year now. What I meant is that I tested booting up the system with it already beginning to start up and also with it left off, which made no improvement.


----------



## Jpmboy

do you run it cold enough to get condensation?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> do you run it cold enough to get condensation?


Sub ambient phase change









Time to pull system apart methinks


----------



## Rayce185

Everything is properly insulated, front to back. From the outside as well as when taking it apart it all seems dry and none of the components look burnt.

To be honest except for the color of the ceramic thermal compound everything looks fine to me...

   

  

I'll get some more tomorrow and reseat the CPU.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Everything is properly insulated, front to back. From the outside as well as when taking it apart it all seems dry and none of the components look burnt.
> 
> To be honest except for the color of the ceramic thermal compound everything looks fine to me...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll get some more tomorrow and reseat the CPU.


That's looking really good there mate









+1 for u


----------



## Jpmboy

After seeing that mess I think I'll forego my impulse to buy a phase unit.


----------



## xarot

Maybe a good idea to clean the CPU pads to check for any possible burns/rust or socket rot. It's a bit tough to see through the goo.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1526237/the-downside-of-using-a-phase-change-and-or-extreme-cooling


----------



## Rayce185

I have a 3930K lying around that virtually never ran. The system has the same issue, so I'm guessing it's the Mainboard.

Time to dismantle it and wash off all the silicone grease.


----------



## Shadowarez

I'm getting a 850 pro 512 GB drive I want as bout.can I still use my 840's in raid or once raid is set in bios does that make all data 6gb ports stay in raid?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I'm getting a 850 pro 512 GB drive I want as bout.can I still use my 840's in raid or once raid is set in bios does that make all data 6gb ports stay in raid?


Leave it set to Raid 0 and everything should be fine man


----------



## Shadowarez

Ty I'll be removing the 910 SSD as it sits way to snug under 1st TX hybrid. Move it to the server. I'll secure erase the drives then set em up and just make the new 850 main boot drive.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VanuSovereignty*
> 
> Hi everyone, I'm interested in trying the 0208 Pre-Release BIOS, I'm currently rocking 0507 and am at 4.5GHz with 1.372v (as indicated by AI Suite 3 and about what is measured on the board with a multimeter, Hwinfo64 is indicating 1.360v). I'm curious to see if it would allow me to lock down 4.6 GHz at or under 1.4v.
> 
> Is it possible to switch between two different BIOS or is it the case that if you change the BIOS it changes both of the BIOS on the board? Meaning, can I flash to 0208 on the secondary BIOS spot and keep 0507 as primary?
> 
> I've been running 0507 since 2014 as I'm not running an NVME drive and the only real compelling reason to update to say 0801 was the NVME support so I don't really know how to update the BIOS other than that I need format a flash drive to Fat32 and use the included file Homecinema posted a few posts up.
> 
> I vaguely remember reading that one can't save BIOS settings via flash drive and apply them to a different BIOS? So I would need to go in and redo my entire overclock.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


You can absolutely flash two different bios versions to the two chips. Just make sure you only update one of them and don't let it copy the update to the other.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VanuSovereignty*
> 
> Thanks for the help! Is there a way to avoid flashing both of the chips? I have my RIVBE physical guide on hand but it doesn't cover flashing different BIOS at all, unless I am mistaken.
> 
> I suppose I will use the EZ-Flash method as shown on page 3-51 but ensuring that I switch to the current secondary BIOS position first?
> 
> If this is successful I guess it's just a matter of having a look at all of my various OC settings in 0507, writing them down, and then switching to 0208 and plugging them in and then trying to see what it can do in terms of CPU frequency vs. vcore?
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Also, man this forum is a real gem, I just learned about E5 1680 v2 as a potential upgrade path, too bad they are still going for $700+ on ebay:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1564465/psa-unlocked-8core-for-x79-if-you-cared/0_100
> 
> I wish I registered earlier, oh well, better late to the party than ever.


Choose the chip you want to flash by selecting the red bios chip button bottom right of mobo next to the black direct key button .

A orange led next to the bios chip indicates which one









The 208 bios dropped my o/c by .1vc @ 4.6Ghz


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VanuSovereignty*
> 
> Ok thanks, is there a risk of the flashing process flashing both BIOS chips that Chrisnyc75 mentioned? Any tips as to how to transfer over all of my OC settings or do *I simply need to manually input them all over again with the new bios?
> 
> I think I remember reading somewhere that saved bios settings via flashdrive can only be applied to the same bios.*


This ^^

and

This vv

I powered down my rig put in a fat32 formatted usb in top port next to clr button , hold button underneath until it starts to flash then release and wait . Should be updated to whatever bios









Plus to flash both chips is a manual setting in the bios , so no risk


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Use a usb 2.0 stick, usb 3.0 won't work.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Use a usb 2.0 stick, usb 3.0 won't work.


I forgots about that


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VanuSovereignty*
> 
> *Ok so first, switch to the secondary BIOS, then insert the flashdrive into the usb port nearest the clr button etc and it will only change that bios? Nothing to do in BIOS menu?*
> 
> Thanks, I think it's 2.0, it's one of those cheap Sandisk Cruzer USB's from a few years ago, fairly certain it's 2.0. How do you like that E5 1680 v2? Is it a worthy upgrade from i7 4930k? They are going for $700 now on ebay. It's just that with DX12 not arriving as quickly as we thought it would (less converts to Win10, including myself, well I have to admit I am dual booting Win 7 and Win 10 on different drives, in case my main OS wigs out for whatever reason, and to eventually get Forza Horizon 3) I don't see a compelling reason to move from 6 to 8 cores. Maybe if I see some benches showing a significant performance gain to be had between an i7 5960x (only because it's comparable in performance and there are hardly any 1680 v2 comparisons) and an i7 4930k I will be motivated to save for that Xeon.
> 
> Thanks for all of the help. I'm tempted to try this tonight but will probably wait until tomorrow after coffee.


Ok so first powered down my rig , switch to the secondary BIOS put in a fat32 formatted usb 2.0 in top port next to clr button , hold button underneath until it starts to flash then release and wait .

And nothing in the bios menu except for copying down any settings in chip your about to flash .

I'm looking at the E5-2692V2 12C/24HT . 130w 3.5ghz turbo . But as far as I'm aware its locked multi .

http://ark.intel.com/products/75283/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E5-2697-v2-30M-Cache-2_70-GHz


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VanuSovereignty*
> 
> Ok and just to confirm, it will only flash whatever BIOS is presently selected? It doesn't flash both of them correct?
> 
> Any reason to be interested in that CPU? Why not E5 1680 v2? It's probably the best CPU for our board, I just can't justify it from a cost-benefit analysis perspective at this point in time. Splurging on 1080 Ti was an essential upgrade for me, but I just don't know that I can justify spending another $700 on a CPU upgrade when the vast majority of the titles don't seem to have proper multi-CPU support.
> 
> I wish Vulkan and / or DX 12 were a reality already. It's now pushing 2018, we've been hearing about DX12 since 2014, and its nary to be found (Rise of the Tomb Raider, golf clap).


Yes that's correct .

Ummm 12c 24t also its 20% of 1680v2 price in Oz . I cant spend moolah I don't got


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VanuSovereignty*
> 
> Can you buy from ebay or is it some kind of VAT that is making 1680v2 prohibitively expensive? If its the latter there has to be a way to circumvent that, maybe get someone here in the U.S. to purchase it and then send it to you or something.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> How is that processor any better than 4960x?


Yeah USD to AUD exchange rate which makes em $1100 to $1350 2nd hand and $1600 to $2000 new of the 4 on ebay from 'Murica PLUS 10% min import duty which applies to anything over $1000AU.............









I have no idea about its 3.5Ghz max turbo clock performance compared to my 4960x @[email protected]


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VanuSovereignty*
> 
> Ok so first, switch to the secondary BIOS, then insert the flashdrive into the usb port nearest the clr button etc and it will only change that bios? Nothing to do in BIOS menu?
> Thanks, I think it's 2.0, it's one of those cheap Sandisk Cruzer USB's from a few years ago, fairly certain it's 2.0. How do you like that E5 1680 v2? Is it a worthy upgrade from i7 4930k? They are going for $700 now on ebay. It's just that with DX12 not arriving as quickly as we thought it would (less converts to Win10, including myself, well I have to admit I am dual booting Win 7 and Win 10 on different drives, in case my main OS wigs out for whatever reason, and to eventually get Forza Horizon 3) I don't see a compelling reason to move from 6 to 8 cores. Maybe if I see some benches showing a significant performance gain to be had between an i7 5960x (only because it's comparable in performance and there are hardly any 1680 v2 comparisons) and an i7 4930k I will be motivated to save for that Xeon.
> 
> Thanks for all of the help. I'm tempted to try this tonight but will probably wait until tomorrow after coffee.


It's worth the upgrade from a benching perspective. Even encoding and such. But for gaming, no.

$700 is a more realistic price, I paid $1165 for mine, over $1500 CAD near two years ago.

@HOMECINEMA-PC

Your 4.6Ghz 4960x is better than any 26xx V2 12 core.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> It's worth the upgrade from a benching perspective. Even encoding and such. But for gaming, no.
> 
> $700 is a more realistic price, I paid $1165 for mine, over $1500 CAD near two years ago.
> 
> @HOMECINEMA-PC
> 
> Your 4.6Ghz 4960x is better than any 26xx V2 12 core.




I thought that might be the case mate . Its a solid 4960x with a strong IMC that's running cooler than ever


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> I thought that might be the case mate . Its a solid 4960x with a strong IMC that's running cooler than ever


yeah man... lovin my 4960X here. it's been at 4.7 w/ 1.39V for ever now... on 24/7 with a constant light load and occasional AVX load (crunching camera videos for storage).


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

That's the message for updating the bios .

CPU-Z will show you if its updated


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Yes that's normal operation when it updates from one bios and or chip to another .....

Y didn't you write down your previous o/c settings u silly









U should have no probs dialing in 4.6ghz @1.4vc


----------



## Shadowarez

when to clean up the rig do some maintenance heres what the res looks like on the H240x  i can see floatys in there tried a bit of soap didnt seem to help, im looking at getting this to replace it,

New Kit this should be a nice upgrade eventhe the cpu isnt gettin hot but id rather err on the side this may not last, given it doesnt wanna get clean,


----------



## AkibaDeep

Can somebody with this board, and 2400MHz Dominator Platinum's run the Aida 64 memory read benchmark and post their result?

I'm finding that running my ram at 2400MHz results in a lower benchmark score, while scaling back to 2200MHz results in a better benchmark score.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AkibaDeep*
> 
> Can somebody with this board, and 2400MHz Dominator Platinum's run the Aida 64 memory read benchmark and post their result?
> 
> I'm finding that running my ram at 2400MHz results in a lower benchmark score, while scaling back to 2200MHz results in a better benchmark score.


There's a known bug at 2400mhz on X79 (maybe inherent to Asus boards? I'm not sure). I don't think there's a fix, most people get better results at 2133mhz with tighter timings.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AkibaDeep*
> 
> Can somebody with this board, and 2400MHz Dominator Platinum's run the Aida 64 memory read benchmark and post their result?
> 
> I'm finding that running my ram at 2400MHz results in a lower benchmark score, while scaling back to 2200MHz results in a better benchmark score.


FWIW, I have 2400Mhz memory running at 2416Mhz and it's fast for me. You can compare what I'm getting to give you a ball park.

I use G.Skill Ripjaw Z , 32GB (4x8GB)

right-click and open in a new tab for hi-res


I'm able to get better memory performance (high 40's) if I mess around with the settings but even where I'm at right now it's giving good response times.


I am not claiming to have the memory fully tweaked either so I would consider this "Average"


----------



## AkibaDeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> FWIW, I have 2400Mhz memory running at 2416Mhz and it's fast for me. You can compare what I'm getting to give you a ball park.
> 
> I use G.Skill Ripjaw Z , 32GB (4x8GB)
> 
> right-click and open in a new tab for hi-res
> 
> 
> I'm able to get better memory performance (high 40's) if I mess around with the settings but even where I'm at right now it's giving good response times.
> 
> 
> I am not claiming to have the memory fully tweaked either so I would consider this "Average"


Thank you for doing this! hrmmmm, there has to be something wrong on my end.

My results RAM at 2400MHz = 34507MB/s read speed, RAM at 2133MHz = 62205MB/s read speed. im just selecting the stock XMP profiles. latest RIVBE bios. I'm going to try Running my ram slightly faster than 2400 to avoid the 2400MHz bug, or re-flashing my bios to the pre-release one on here and seeing what happens.

I shouldn't have to change the latency's or voltage (left at 1.65, though have tried 1.675 as well) since this RAM is supposed to be able to run at 2400MHz at 1.65 at the stock latency's shown in the pictures.


----------



## Laithan

Hmm... I've seen the bug where write performance is impacted but have never come across that one... perhaps some others here have seen it before.

I'm using BIOS 0701 FWIW, I can't do anything but GUESS if another BIOS would address your issue or not.

I'm also using the XMP, manual timings and using the 3rd memory preset (for IVY-e CPUs)

Good luck that's a bugger!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Updated the firmware a few says ago for my Intel 750 and now just did the Creator's Update for Windows 10, speeds have went up a little:


----------



## Shadowarez

nice does anyone know if using a riser cable for pcie will drop the speed down compared to direct connection?


----------



## c0ld

So whats the general consensus on 2400MHz memory in X79, I am running 16GB two kits (2 X 4GB) of 1866MHz Vengeance memory with same timings.

I ordered a kit of Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400MHz (4 x 4GB), I don't have the RIVBE but the X79 sabertooth. Will I run into problems?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> So whats the general consensus on 2400MHz memory in X79, I am running 16GB two kits (2 X 4GB) of 1866MHz Vengeance memory with same timings.
> 
> I ordered a kit of Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400MHz (4 x 4GB), I don't have the RIVBE but the X79 sabertooth. Will I run into problems?


3930k?

Could have some issue. A lot of SB-E have made it to 2400Mhz speeds, but some haven't. If you do run into an issue, just run 2133Mhz with tighter timings and lower voltage.

I've had a 3960x, two 3970x and a 3930k, all ran 2400Mhz 4x4gb no problem.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> So whats the general consensus on 2400MHz memory in X79, I am running 16GB two kits (2 X 4GB) of 1866MHz Vengeance memory with same timings.
> 
> I ordered a kit of Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400MHz (4 x 4GB), I don't have the RIVBE but the X79 sabertooth. Will I run into problems?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 3930k?
> 
> Could have some issue. A lot of SB-E have made it to 2400Mhz speeds, but some haven't. If you do run into an issue, just run 2133Mhz with tighter timings and lower voltage.
> 
> I've had a 3960x, two 3970x and a 3930k, all ran 2400Mhz 4x4gb no problem.


What ^^ he said. From what I have heard 2133mhz is the sweet spot for x79.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Ive had all of my hex Sandybe chips run at 2400 and the 3 3820's I had did past 2700mhz too .


----------



## KingT

I'm running 125Mhz BCLK and 2333Mhz RAM CL 10 -12-12-31 2T as my 24/7 settings (4.375MHz on 4390K),
Today I've tried 128.6MHz BCLK and 2400Mhz CL10 and it was perfectly stable, tested with IBT 5 runs with custom RAM (12.8GB) ~ approx 30 minutes.
I used the same voltages just lowered multi from 35 to 34 for the same CPU freq OC.

Motherboard is Asus RIVF and RAM is G Skill RipJawZ 2133MHz 4x4 CL9.

As the result I got ~ 1GB/s more badwidth.

With 2333Mhz RAM and 125 BCLK I have R: 64.5GB/s, W: 66 GB/s, C: 64 GB/s, Lat: 52.9 ns.

CHEERS..


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 3930k?
> 
> Could have some issue. A lot of SB-E have made it to 2400Mhz speeds, but some haven't. If you do run into an issue, just run 2133Mhz with tighter timings and lower voltage.
> 
> I've had a 3960x, two 3970x and a 3930k, all ran 2400Mhz 4x4gb no problem.


I see so draw of the silicon whether the memory controller can handle 2400MHz?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Anyone else notice a boost from updating the firmware on their Intel 750 and also after installing Creator's Update?


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Anyone else notice a boost from updating the firmware on their Intel 750 and also after installing Creator's Update?


Nice OC, how's that CPU for gaming? Only specific X79 mobos can house that baby?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Anyone else notice a boost from updating the firmware on their Intel 750 and also after installing Creator's Update?


FYI

http://gizmodo.com/microsoft-warns-users-not-to-install-its-latest-windows-1794692878

_"With its Creators Update for Windows 10, Microsoft promised that users would have the option to postpone future updates for a limited period of time and many rejoiced. But now that the update has started rolling out, it's become apparent that there are still some stability issues and performing a manual installation isn't recommended right now."_

FWIW


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Thanks Laithan.









c0ld, 1680 V2 is just like you'd expect a 5960x to be in gaming, very good.









A lot of x79 mobos can support ths chip, just do some research first. I'm sure your sig motherboard could.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Thanks Laithan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> c0ld, 1680 V2 is just like you'd expect a 5960x to be in gaming, very good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of x79 mobos can support ths chip, just do some research first. I'm sure your sig motherboard could.


Great thanks a lot! I said I wasn't gonna splurge more money on my PC but you just tempted me to. Looked it up and saw them at 750'ish on eBay.

is there anything specific I gotta do to drop it in my mobo? All my hardware should be compatible with it right?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Great thanks a lot! I said I wasn't gonna splurge more money on my PC but you just tempted me to. Looked it up and saw them at 750'ish on eBay.
> 
> is there anything specific I gotta do to drop it in my mobo? All my hardware should be compatible with it right?


Just update the bios to the latest and install cpu as usual.

Looks like it works for your board:

*https://hwbot.org/submission/3449348_frogfut_cinebench___r15_xeon_e5_1680_v2_1295_cb/*


----------



## Nunzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Anyone else notice a boost from updating the firmware on their Intel 750 and also after installing Creator's Update?


I'm running similar settings as you, QPI/FSB are they safe for 24/7 ?

Thanks


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Just update the bios to the latest and install cpu as usual.
> 
> Looks like it works for your board:
> 
> *https://hwbot.org/submission/3449348_frogfut_cinebench___r15_xeon_e5_1680_v2_1295_cb/*


Thanks for the info man rep!


----------



## Madmaxneo

I got my replacement 4930k chip in from Intel a few weeks ago and am trying to OC it now.
Here are the settings I changed:
-PCIE and CPU spread Spectrum off
-Turbo mode off
CPU & VCCSA Load Line Calibration to extreme
CPU Current Capability to 160%
VCCSA Current Capability to 120%
Vcore to 1.3

Now these are my initial settings. I ran the intel burn test and it ran up temps as high as 70 deg, which seems high to me for the Intel burn test.

I want to try something before proceeding with my OCing but I am not sure how to go about doing it.

How do you use voltage offset to possibly reduce temps or get a better OC?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I got my replacement 4930k chip in from Intel a few weeks ago and am trying to OC it now.
> Here are the settings I changed:
> -PCIE and CPU spread Spectrum off
> -Turbo mode off
> CPU & VCCSA Load Line Calibration to extreme
> CPU Current Capability to 160%
> VCCSA Current Capability to 120%
> Vcore to 1.3
> 
> Now these are my initial settings. I ran the intel burn test and it ran up temps as high as 70 deg, which seems high to me for the Intel burn test.
> 
> I want to try something before proceeding with my OCing but I am not sure how to go about doing it.
> 
> How do you use voltage offset to possibly reduce temps or get a better OC?


It's much trickier and harder to explain than regular vcore overclocking.

Basically, you set it to offset +/- 0mv, then raise your multiplier until it won't load windows. Then you add offset vcore until it will successfully load windows. Rinse & repeat until you reach your desired oc or get close to 1.4v at load. The idea is that your cpu gets a base vcore all the time, then the offset vcore is added (or subtracted) under load when it needs it.

It's more nuanced than that, but iirc that's the jist of it (it's been a few years since I oc'ed mine, it's just been chugging away on its own ever since)

Also, fyi, it will NOT reduce your temp under load at all. It WILL reduce the average voltage being applied to your cpu & the idle temp.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> It's much trickier and harder to explain than regular vcore overclocking.
> 
> Basically, you set it to offset +/- 0mv, then raise your multiplier until it won't load windows. Then you add offset vcore until it will successfully load windows. Rinse & repeat until you reach your desired oc or get close to 1.4v at load. The idea is that your cpu gets a base vcore all the time, then the offset vcore is added (or subtracted) under load when it needs it.
> 
> It's more nuanced than that, but iirc that's the jist of it (it's been a few years since I oc'ed mine, it's just been chugging away on its own ever since)
> 
> Also, fyi, it will NOT reduce your temp under load at all. It WILL reduce the average voltage being applied to your cpu & the idle temp.


Thanks! Rep! I found a guide for the ASUS maximus boards about offset OCing and it is a bit more complex than that. LOL. So far I have been able to hit 4.4ghz and seem pretty stable. I may try 4.6 and then go with lowering the vcore if it is stable...
Then I will mess with offset tinkering...lol


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks! Rep! I found a guide for the ASUS maximus boards about offset OCing and it is a bit more complex than that. LOL. So far I have been able to hit 4.4ghz and seem pretty stable. I may try 4.6 and then go with lowering the vcore if it is stable...
> Then I will mess with offset tinkering...lol


Yeah, it's definitely more complex than my super-brief summary... once you're in Windows, you have to load up something that maxes out the load and then adjust the offset accordingly. It's a lot harder than regular overclocking, and really the only reason to bother with it is if you have a really high overclock that requires a lot of voltage, but you want to reduce the amount of voltage being applied to your cpu at idle, when it doesn't need the additional vcore. Or just for the challenge of it. 

If your aim is to reduce your vcore under load or reduce temps, though, offset oc'ing won't help you.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks! Rep! I found a guide for the ASUS maximus boards about offset OCing and it is a bit more complex than that. LOL. So far I have been able to hit 4.4ghz and seem pretty stable. I may try 4.6 and then go with lowering the vcore if it is stable...
> Then I will mess with offset tinkering...lol


btw, also worth noting there's a bug in Windows 10 (not sure if the recent updates might have fixed it? I gave up following along ages ago) where enabling VM causes the bios to ignore offset vcore. Gave me more than a few headaches back in the W10 beta days. When last I checked, neither Microsoft nor Asus seemed interested in fixing it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, it's definitely more complex than my super-brief summary... once you're in Windows, you have to load up something that maxes out the load and then adjust the offset accordingly. It's a lot harder than regular overclocking, and really the only reason to bother with it is if you have a really high overclock that requires a lot of voltage, but you want to reduce the amount of voltage being applied to your cpu at idle, when it doesn't need the additional vcore. Or just for the challenge of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your aim is to reduce your vcore under load or reduce temps, though, offset oc'ing won't help you.


From what I've read offset can improve stability and increase OC potential.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> btw, also worth noting there's a bug in Windows 10 (not sure if the recent updates might have fixed it? I gave up following along ages ago) where enabling VM causes the bios to ignore offset vcore. Gave me more than a few headaches back in the W10 beta days. When last I checked, neither Microsoft nor Asus seemed interested in fixing it.


If by VM you mean Virtual Machine, I don't use it. I haven't even tried it yet...


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> From what I've read offset can improve stability and increase OC potential.
> If by VM you mean Virtual Machine, I don't use it. I haven't even tried it yet...


No, offset won't improve stability or increase OC potential. What it will do is maximize efficiency so you're not wasting electricity by providing vcore you don't need to your core when it doesn't need it. Offset ONLY gives the core additional vcore when it needs it; the rest of the time it gives it as little voltage as possible to be stable when idle. Let me put it this way: if you need 1.36v to be stable at 4.5ghz with your regular oc, you're going to need the exact same 1.36v to be stable at 4.5ghz with offset. The only difference is how you achieve that 1.36v.

Yes, VM = Virtual Machine. Make sure the SERVICE is disabled in Windows. The bug is triggered by the service being enabled even if you're not actually using VM (because Windows 10, like Windows 8, is basically built to emulate a VM)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> No, offset won't improve stability or increase OC potential. What it will do is maximize efficiency so you're not wasting electricity by providing vcore you don't need to your core when it doesn't need it. Offset ONLY gives the core additional vcore when it needs it; the rest of the time it gives it as little voltage as possible to be stable when idle. Let me put it this way: if you need 1.36v to be stable at 4.5ghz with your regular oc, you're going to need the exact same 1.36v to be stable at 4.5ghz with offset. The only difference is how you achieve that 1.36v.
> 
> Yes, VM = Virtual Machine. Make sure the SERVICE is disabled in Windows. The bug is triggered by the service being enabled even if you're not actually using VM (because Windows 10, like Windows 8, is basically built to emulate a VM)


Some of the things I have read so far indicate it helps with stability somewhat. But not the ROG offset OC guide (which I am reading now). Thanks for the info so far!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> From what I've read offset can improve stability and increase OC potential.
> 
> If by VM you mean Virtual Machine, I don't use it. I haven't even tried it yet...
> 
> 
> 
> No, offset won't improve stability or increase OC potential. What it will do is maximize efficiency so you're not wasting electricity by providing vcore you don't need to your core when it doesn't need it. Offset ONLY gives the core additional vcore when it needs it; the rest of the time it gives it as little voltage as possible to be stable when idle. Let me put it this way: if you need 1.36v to be stable at 4.5ghz with your regular oc, you're going to need the exact same 1.36v to be stable at 4.5ghz with offset. The only difference is how you achieve that 1.36v.
> 
> Yes, VM = Virtual Machine. Make sure the SERVICE is disabled in Windows. The bug is triggered by the service being enabled even if you're not actually using VM (because Windows 10, like Windows 8, is basically built to emulate a VM)
Click to expand...

i dont have this issue basically


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Me neither









I find blck 125 strap is the best for overclocking ........... Multiplier , 100 strap +offset vcore for lower idle temps


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> That's looking really good there mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 for u


I think I may have found the issue...

After cleaning this...


...I found this:

 

Now I'm wondering if this could've happened while cleaning, even when being careful. On the other hand I doubt the system may have worked with this in the first place, since nothing was taken apart before the first issues occured.

Time to correct the pins and retry both CPU's.


----------



## Derek1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I got my replacement 4930k chip in from Intel a few weeks ago and am trying to OC it now.
> Here are the settings I changed:
> -PCIE and CPU spread Spectrum off
> -Turbo mode off
> CPU & VCCSA Load Line Calibration to extreme
> CPU Current Capability to 160%
> VCCSA Current Capability to 120%
> Vcore to 1.3
> 
> Now these are my initial settings. I ran the intel burn test and it ran up temps as high as 70 deg, which seems high to me for the Intel burn test.
> 
> I want to try something before proceeding with my OCing but I am not sure how to go about doing it.
> 
> How do you use voltage offset to possibly reduce temps or get a better OC?


To set OffSet you subtract the VID from your Bios VCore and enter the result into the Offset, either + or - depending.
Get VID while running chip under load. Either P95 or simply doing the Bench in CPU-Z.

ETA Watch the videos on page one of this thread for an explanation and guide to OCing http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

and this ( I used this with my 4930K)

https://www.gskill.us/forum/showthread.php?p=74288


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> I think I may have found the issue...
> 
> After cleaning this...
> 
> 
> ...I found this:
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm wondering if this could've happened while cleaning, even when being careful. On the other hand I doubt the system may have worked with this in the first place, since nothing was taken apart before the first issues occured.
> 
> Time to correct the pins and retry both CPU's.


Yeah , that middle pin doesn't look too good too me eh


----------



## mtbiker033

I was attempting to raise my OC to 4.7 yesterday but just upping the multi and raising the vcore but it wouldn't work so I went to go back to my 4.6 settings as they have been fine for years and I ran into problems.

no matter what I set in bios it always gets into windows with the 39 turbo setting (stock)....things I have tried:

1. changing the 3v battery on the mobo with a new one
2. clearning cmos
3. re-flashing the latest bios 0801
4. installing the AI Suite to see if it was something there that was causing it, this didn't work and I uninstalled it. I actually tried doing my 4.6 settings from there and though it looked right on the ROG front base it locked up my windows had to reboot.

every time I reboot and go into bios, use my settings for 46 multi it boots at 39 turbo. I'm trying for fixed 46, all power saving features disabled.

Anyone every have this problem?

Update

after many attempts I got back to 46 multi by leaving turbo on, I was trying to have turbo off and just a fixed vcore at 46, apparently this thing LOVES turbo lol


----------



## Mega Man

As always need bios screens of anything you have changed to help


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

#Notmindreaders









I would of flicked over to the 2nd bios chip first .......


----------



## Madmaxneo

I got my replacement 4930k in and decided to OC it this week. So far it is at least a little better than my old one as I can now hit 4.4ghz. But it does get hot when under load. I hit high temps in the high 70's when stress testing. I tried going up to 4.5ghz but I keep getting errors on one core or another according to the programs I use and they stop, no blue screens so far though. When I get the errors for a certain core my real temp shows that particular core hit 81 or 82 deg when none other have. So I am thinking the error happens when the temp reaches a certain limit. I could be wrong though because I still do not know enough about this to really know.
For now though anyone have any good suggestions to maybe keep my temps down some?

FYI I used the basic OC procedures. I hit 4.4ghz with a 1.3 vcore and tried as high as 1.38 for the 4.5 but it seemed to get hotter so I didn't go try any higher.
I turned off CPU and PCIE spread spectrum, disabled turbo.
CPU and VCCSA load line calibration to high
CPU current capability to 160%
VCCSA current capability to 120%

In OCCT and in CPUZ my reported vcore is only .68 which I find odd.

Isn't there a certain voltage I can adjust for stability and maybe help with temps some? I don't remember exactly and I can't find the OC guides I had printed out like a year ago and those particular sites/threads seem to no longer be online.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

LLC on ultra then try extreme


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> LLC on ultra then try extreme


I originally had both LLC's on extreme but it would not stay stable at 4.4ghz so I switched it down to high.


----------



## deafboy

Alright, I must be out of it or something.... where the heck is LLC at in the BIOS?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Alright, I must be out of it or something.... where the heck is LLC at in the BIOS?


Digi + Power control


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Digi + Power control


Herpy derp, lmao. Thanks. I have nooooo idea how I overlooked that.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Herpy derp, lmao. Thanks. I have nooooo idea how I overlooked that.


No worries man . I think I might know why ...........


----------



## deafboy




----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I originally had both LLC's on extreme but it would not stay stable at 4.4ghz so I switched it down to high.


I believe due to the heat issues you might be looking at a custom loop or maybe a dual pump / res with a heavy copper waterblock .

Or sumthin with more head pressure


----------



## xarot

My 4960X needs a huge bump in Vcore after 4.4 GHz. Because 4.4 GHz needs ~1.3 V, and 4.5 GHz needs 1.375 V. I'd just try some more Vcore first.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I believe due to the heat issues you might be looking at a custom loop or maybe a dual pump / res with a heavy copper waterblock .
> 
> Or sumthin with more head pressure


I also think it is because of the temps I reach.
I am currently running off of a Swiftech H240-X. Which normally does a great job. But this chip does get hot. The Swiftech H320-X2 Prestige is on my wishlist and that should cool much better but it is going to have to wait until this next winter at the earliest. I am running my H240-X with a Heatkiller IV Pro waterblock, though it didn't really do any better than the original Swiftech block that came with my unit.

I have a couple questions on a few settings:
Should I mess with the CPU VTT Switching Freq at all? I am reading some that this may help with some things.
In the same guide I've read that the 2nd VTTCPU Voltage can be lowered because it does not affect OC at all. Should I do this and if so what steps in voltage should I go down in?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I normally run both vtt's at 1.2v


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont have this issue basically


They probably patched it at some point. This particular problem gave me such headaches at the launch of Windows 10 I basically reverted to regular vcore and never bothered to go back to offset. My temps are well under control and 4 years into the life of my 4930k I'm no longer worried about being conservative on voltage. 

*edit: I just remembered - it wasn't offset that wasn't applied, it was Additional Core Voltage under the cpu sub-menu. Offset applied normally, but when the VMM process was enabled the bios ignored Additional Core Voltage. It's a rather arcane fine-tuning setting that hardly anybody uses, which is probably why nobody noticed. Except me. I'm kinda ocd like that. lol Anyway...as you were.


----------



## Laithan

*Here's one for those who deep dive*









Does anyone have any knowledge/experience regarding the specific BIOS settings related to high overclocks with hyperthreading enabled?

*Here's my scenario:* Without getting into details yet, the overview is that I have a "stable" overclock of 4.7-4.8Ghz when HT is disabled in the BIOS. I can game, benchmark, pass a stability test, etc... I can run as high as 17x BUS speed, stable.



*The moment I enable HT in the BIOS, it is either unstable or doesn't even post.*

I fiddle around and long story short is that the only way I have found to be able to successfully enable HT is to lower my overclock by about roughly 100Mhz. This may just be how it is....I can understand the concept of additional CPU features/workload = more strain and that may simply impact (reduce) my overclocks however I wanted to ask those with more experience, perhaps it isn't that straight forward. There's a plethora of BIOS settings on these boards... could some of them help me for this? Could it be just a matter of some adjustments to compensate for HT? I realize it might be just as simple as it sounds that more cores (even virtual) means lower overclocks but wanted to throw this out there

Thanks in advance


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

125 strap man ...


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> *Here's one for those who deep dive*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any knowledge/experience regarding the specific BIOS settings related to high overclocks with hyperthreading enabled?
> 
> *Here's my scenario:* Without getting into details yet, the overview is that I have a "stable" overclock of 4.7-4.8Ghz when HT is disabled in the BIOS. I can game, benchmark, pass a stability test, etc... I can run as high as 17x BUS speed, stable.
> 
> 
> 
> *The moment I enable HT in the BIOS, it is either unstable or doesn't even post.*
> 
> I fiddle around and long story short is that the only way I have found to be able to successfully enable HT is to lower my overclock by about roughly 100Mhz. This may just be how it is....I can understand the concept of additional CPU features/workload = more strain and that may simply impact (reduce) my overclocks however I wanted to ask those with more experience, perhaps it isn't that straight forward. There's a plethora of BIOS settings on these boards... could some of them help me for this? Could it be just a matter of some adjustments to compensate for HT? I realize it might be just as simple as it sounds that more cores (even virtual) means lower overclocks but wanted to throw this out there
> 
> Thanks in advance


Yeah, generally I think oc with HT disabled tends to be a bit higher than with HT enabled. That said, you might try setting boot voltage manually to ensure you get through post, then you can try to tweak the settings for stability after windows successfully loads.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 125 strap man ...


Dang you got me sold on the 4960x, looking to get one from ebay there is a reputable seller selling new bulk ones for about $330. It will replace my poor overclocking 3930k @ 4.4 with 1.4v


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 125 strap man ...


I do have one of my overclock profiles saved using a 125Mhz strap... anything higher wasn't stable for me. I don't think I understand the difference between setting the bus speed to 125Mhz while strap is set to 100Mhz or setting the strap to 125Mhz which also changes the bus speed to 125Mhz.. They both appear to produce the same clock speeds I wonder if I'm in need of some edumacation about strap.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, generally I think oc with HT disabled tends to be a bit higher than with HT enabled. That said, you might try setting boot voltage manually to ensure you get through post, then you can try to tweak the settings for stability after windows successfully loads.


ok ya so maybe just a "fact of life", no fancy smancy BIOS settings (does anyone actually use all these 6,000 BIOS settings! LMAO)

I've always stayed away from "software overclocking" in windows but perhaps I should give it another try... in the past (much older motherboards/chipsets) it was a disaster but I've seen many of you guys mention using DIP 4 so perhaps it deserves a re-visit.

I also wonder if I could share my BIOS settings for a "*Health check*". I've learned a lot about this board but don't know much more than I do







. Perhaps someone could give a look-n-see if there's anything that stands out that could be recommended or needs to be changed. Shall I post them?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Dang you got me sold on the 4960x, looking to get one from ebay there is a reputable seller selling new bulk ones for about $330. It will replace my poor overclocking 3930k @ 4.4 with 1.4v


Man I cant believe your only getting 4.4 !

All of my Sandybee cpu's did 5 gigs at low vcore .

Even my first 3820 did 5432.1 Mhz ( at 1.72vc ! ) on a crappy waterloop !

Heres a 4960 x 4.6 @ 2400 @ 100 strap



@Laithan

You should try the pre release 208 bios


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Man I cant believe your only getting 4.4 !
> 
> All of my Sandybee cpu's did 5 gigs at low vcore .
> 
> Even my first 3820 did 5432.1 Mhz ( at 1.72vc ! ) on a crappy waterloop !
> 
> Heres a 4.6 @ 100 strap
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Laithan
> 
> You should try the pre release 208 bios


But that pic shows an IvyE chip....


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> But that pic shows an IvyE chip....


Yeah that's a screener for that dude . If you want proof go to 5gigs club the vals are there .

The only SBE I have left is a really nice 3930k as a spare chip and that does a [email protected] all day long









Heres a 5 gig val for this 4960x

http://valid.canardpc.com/efa6a9

And a really nice 5 gig 3930k val

http://valid.x86.fr/ec529m

3970x

http://valid.x86.fr/2v3lab


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Yeah that's a screener for that dude . If you want proof go to 5gigs club the vals are there .
> 
> The only SBE I have left is a really nice 3930k as a spare chip and that does a [email protected] all day long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres a 5 gig val for this 4960x
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/efa6a9
> 
> And a really nice 5 gig 3930k val
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/ec529m
> 
> 3970x
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/2v3lab


Are those stable volts?!









Highest I can go under 1.4v stable is 4.8GHz


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Man I cant believe your only getting 4.4 !
> 
> All of my Sandybee cpu's did 5 gigs at low vcore .
> 
> Even my first 3820 did 5432.1 Mhz ( at 1.72vc ! ) on a crappy waterloop !
> 
> Heres a 4960 x 4.6 @ 2400 @ 100 strap
> 
> 
> 
> @Laithan
> 
> You should try the pre release 208 bios


Your 4960X is basically identical settings to my 4930K. Twinsies! lol How much vcore does it take for 4.7ghz? 1.42v here.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Man I cant believe your only getting 4.4 !
> 
> All of my Sandybee cpu's did 5 gigs at low vcore .
> 
> Even my first 3820 did 5432.1 Mhz ( at 1.72vc ! ) on a crappy waterloop !
> 
> Heres a 4960 x 4.6 @ 2400 @ 100 strap


My 2600k ran 4.8 like a champ for 6 years without any sort of degradation I thought the same notion was gonna apply with my 3930k.

I got the 3930k 4.3GHz @ 1.35v was stable, after that I needed to keep adding volts to get up to 4.4, or unless im doing something wrong? Didn't play around with the strap.
Or is the ASUS X79 Sabertooth a poor OC mobo?

I followed the guide on the ASUS youtube on the X79 overclocking.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> My 2600k ran 4.8 like a champ for 6 years without any sort of degradation I thought the same notion was gonna apply with my 3930k.
> 
> I got the 3930k 4.3GHz @ 1.35v was stable, after that I needed to keep adding volts to get up to 4.4, or unless im doing something wrong? Didn't play around with the strap.
> Or is the ASUS X79 Sabertooth a poor OC mobo?
> 
> I followed the guide on the ASUS youtube on the X79 overclocking.


Hmm, that doesn't sound right to me. SB-e was known as a good overclocking gen. [email protected] sounds more like IB-e than SB-e. Maybe you just got a bum chip?


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Hmm, that doesn't sound right to me. SB-e was known as a good overclocking gen. [email protected] sounds more like IB-e than SB-e. Maybe you just got a bum chip?


Maybe unless I'm doing something wrong but followed that guide video I posted to get me re-familiarized to overclocking. Seems like a really poor chip I got, oh well I got it for $70 from my friend. He auto-oced it don't remember what to exactly but they tend to run a lot of volts with the auto OC no?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Yeah that's a screener for that dude . If you want proof go to 5gigs club the vals are there .
> 
> The only SBE I have left is a really nice 3930k as a spare chip and that does a [email protected] all day long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres a 5 gig val for this 4960x
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/efa6a9
> 
> And a really nice 5 gig 3930k val
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/ec529m
> 
> 3970x
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/2v3lab


I don't need proof. I have known you long enough to understand you know your stuff. I just wanted to ensure you posted the right pic....lol


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Are those stable volts?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Highest I can go under 1.4v stable is 4.8GHz


Nah that's just a 5 gig val . I think it needed 1.4 , 1.42vc but I cant quite remember .There is a screener somewhere but it was years ago .









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Your 4960X is basically identical settings to my 4930K. Twinsies! lol How much vcore does it take for 4.7ghz? 1.42v here.


1.48vc for 4.7 ..... not worth the jump for a daily o/c









But it will do a 49 / 50 multi . It should make a good subzero chip









Batch no is 3333B508

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> My 2600k ran 4.8 like a champ for 6 years without any sort of degradation I thought the same notion was gonna apply with my 3930k.
> 
> I got the 3930k 4.3GHz @ 1.35v was stable, after that I needed to keep adding volts to get up to 4.4, or unless im doing something wrong? Didn't play around with the strap.
> Or is the ASUS X79 Sabertooth a poor OC mobo?
> 
> I followed the guide on the ASUS youtube on the X79 overclocking.


TBH the main reason I went to rampage boards over sabertooth is that there is moar / higher voltage settings . Good for getting the clocks I wanted for benching









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I don't need proof. I have known you long enough to understand you know your stuff. I just wanted to ensure you posted the right pic....lol


Sorry bro , I get a bit weird somedays


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 1.48vc for 4.7 ..... not worth the jump for a daily o/c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it will do a 49 / 50 multi . It should make a good subzero chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Batch no is 3333B508


Yeah, I typically run mine at 4.6ghz daily, just because I don't see much reason to go to 1.42v just for 100 mhz more. But it does 4.7ghz quite stable. I'm sure it would do 5ghz if I had the extreme cooling for it. I've always counted myself lucky to have gotten an near-golden Ivy Bridge-e. So much so that I'm considering popping a gtx 1180 in my system later this year and squeezing another year or two out of this system. 

Batch #3328A988 Costa Rica


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Nah that's just a 5 gig val . I think it needed 1.4 , 1.42vc but I cant quite remember .There is a screener somewhere but it was years ago .


Gotcha, That's not too bad. I haven't tried any stability tests over 1.4v lol.


----------



## c0ld

Funny my crappy OC'ing 3930k took in my new Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB quad kit at 2400MHz and booted into windows just fine. I read that some 3930k's don't like 2400MHz+ speed on the memory.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Funny my crappy OC'ing 3930k took in my new Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB quad kit at 2400MHz and booted into windows just fine. I read that some 3930k's don't like 2400MHz+ speed on the memory.


All of mine did 2400 and the 3820's did past 2700 .....

Its all to do with how strong the IMC is .........


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> All of mine did 2400 and the 3820's did past 2700 .....
> 
> Its all to do with how strong the IMC is .........


Yes I am aware, but I thought the IMC was gonna be weak since I got a poor overclocking chip. I guess there was no relation to that.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

http://valid.x86.fr/svviu6


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Nice clocks Home, nice ram speed too!









Hope all is well with you.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Nice clocks Home, nice ram speed too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope all is well with you.


Thank you bro









Yeah I'm good health wise but my shifts have dropped to 3 days a week making my wallet empty too quick !

I could prolly go a little tighter on the tert and 2nd timings .



I think its pretty cool that I can still surprise myself with this platform .

Wouldn't mind going to the Sammy 960 NVME for the speeds as a O/S card


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> @Laithan
> 
> You should try the pre release 208 bios


I am honestly a little hesitant... only because despite asking some questions and feeling very confident the answers were accurate... I still feel like perhaps I need to do some more homework.

*Taken from the OP of this thread:*

_Latest Bios!! NEW!!! 0602 BETA

Better support for SB-E chips
Supports 125 Strap for more stable OC's
Stability fixes.

2nd BIOS 0507

Stability fixes, for mem timings, and better auto settings.
Adds Vtd option (so you can disable/enable) in Bios.
Added Support for Intel Xeon family CPU's

First Bios 0403_

Obviously 0208 was prior to 0507 and to be crystal clear, I DO run a XEON. I have an E5-1650V2..

I also have an IVY-e chip which didn't exist at the time of 0208

I recall that the NVMe code was added but not sure if CPU code was or not.

Would love to play with 0208 but not looking for a bad day.


----------



## Clos

Question for you Guys. I just added the NVME Code per Win-raid's instructions. Apparently i successfully reflashed the bios, with 0801.
Is there supposed to be a NVME option now? or should i continue to select AHCI, or Switch to Raid for Drive setup. Going to be getting the Inte 750 either 1.2 TB or 800gb ( haven't decided) so i'm trying to have everything ready for it arrives.

Thanks!.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Switch to raid if running a raid setup OFC ......


----------



## Clos

Sorry, i meant for the NVME drive to be detected, Not sure if a nvme option will pop up? or just leave in echi and it'll detect on it's own. Sorry.


----------



## deafboy

NVME is in a seperate tab in the BIOS near the end... at least that's how it is on mine.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> Sorry, i meant for the NVME drive to be detected, Not sure if a nvme option will pop up? or just leave in echi and it'll detect on it's own. Sorry
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> NVME is in a seperate tab in the BIOS near the end... at least that's how it is on mine.
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

There you have it ........ option is in the bios after flash


----------



## c0ld

Swapping my 3930k for a 4960x on my system today, I got the latest bios released on the x79 Sabertooth. Do I need to do anything special before or after swapping the CPU's?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Swapping my 3930k for a 4960x on my system today, I got the latest bios released on the x79 Sabertooth. Do I need to do anything special before or after swapping the CPU's?


Yep , pray to the o/c gawd for a [email protected]@1.4v daily ............


----------



## Laithan

super helpful


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC




----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Yep , pray to the o/c gawd for a [email protected]@1.4v daily ............


I keep forgetting to ask, but do you watercool your MB (MOSFETT, South Bridge, etc)?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I keep forgetting to ask, but do you watercool your MB (MOSFETT, South Bridge, etc)?


No I don't at all .

I should .

Just don't have a w/block for it . Got the QDC's and hose .............


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> No I don't at all .
> 
> I should .
> 
> Just don't have a w/block for it . Got the QDC's and hose .............


I have the blocks....You should send me those QDC's, that way I could hook it to my system and then tell you how it works.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have the blocks....You should send me those QDC's, that way I could hook it to my system and then tell you how it works.




You sell me the blocks bla , bla ........


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> You sell me the blocks bla , bla ........


You do not need the QDC's. you will send them to me.....


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Yep , pray to the o/c gawd for a [email protected]@1.4v daily ............


Holy... I just loaded my previous profile from my 3930k and lowered the core voltage from 1.4v to 1.35v. Started testing starting at 4.4Ghz since that was my crappy 3930k, ran 30min prime95 blend and bumped it 100Mhz and retested another 30min went all the way to 4.7GHz with 1.35v. I ran prime95 for an hour to make sure and got no errors or warnings and hottest core got to 72C







Plus this cpu is new according to the seller came together an Intel box with a 2011 cpu cooler/heatsink.

Is prime95 blend a good indicator or what other program should I use?

Pics:


----------



## c0ld

Seems I hit the wall with 4.7GHz, bumped to 4.8GHz it boots fine but bsod's on realbench tried all the way from 1.35v to 1.4v to test but it would not pass 2 min of realbench.

4.7GHz with 1.35v is stable did an hour of realbench just fine. Might need to do more extensive testing for stability but it looks good.

Maybe play with the strap/bclk to squeeze a bit more performance?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

4.7Ghz with 1.35v is the top end for these cpus, congrats on getting a good one!


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 4.7Ghz with 1.35v is the top end for these cpus, congrats on getting a good one!


I didn't know that well that's good to know! Temps are just amazing for running this clockspeed. Still have all the Intel stepping enabled so it clocks down


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

My RIVBE board has failed me after nearly 3 years . Time to RMA









Constant Code 01 and 53 . Swapped out psu , ram , cpu and all this in the middle of redoing w10 updates









Was intermittently dropping dram channels and after many re boots I got 1 channel running ( on 3930k and RIVBE )

Then no boot whatsoever . 53 code .

I re-installed RIVE ( mint mobo ) and 3930k and second boot attempt got in with 5gigs @ 2400 with offset volts and 100 strap .

With load











So good to be doin 5 gigs daily after all this time


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

The back up to the rescue, nice to have those.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> The back up to the rescue, nice to have those.




When benching / enthusiast / gamer always have spares ect , ect









Ive got a backup board for this too , but its a crappy Gigabyte









I thought the IMC was failing on my 4960x but no .


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Sorry about the pic

Okay turns out I had a dodgey corsair dom plat as well causing all sorts of dramas that ive never seen before









So I'm gonna put the RIVBE away back in its box and POV it with my RIVE , 3930k and tri chan dom plat setup


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the pic
> 
> Okay turns out I had a dodgey corsair dom plat as well causing all sorts of dramas that ive never seen before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm gonna put the RIVBE away back in its box and POV it with my RIVE , 3930k and tri chan dom plat setup


Maybe it was the dust? You should get some dust filters and what not...dust can kill a board, static electricity and all.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Dust filter that !

I removed the big fans so no moar massive dust issues


----------



## Shadowarez

Quick stab it in the heart that monstrosity oh my Lord I'm surprised you kept that running something like that I'd stick in shed with dehumidifiers so it didn't short. Temps must be good though lol.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Dual chillers bro ...... right now the 3930k is at 4.8 gigs and is idling between


----------



## FIDDY57

Just joined the R4BE thread tho I have had my mobo for almost 2 years now I havn't made any posts. I wanted to get some feed back from this group. I built my rig and put a intel 4930k into it and just picked up a used 4960x off of ebay for 225.00 usd and wanted to know if it was worth spending the money? the 4930k I have been running at 4.5Ghz stable. when I put together my rig I think the going price for the 60x was like 4 hundred more than the 30k. on amazon some state they have gotten 5.1Ghz with it. I plan on deliding it with the rockit88 kit and wanted to get feed back. currently I have the corsair h100i aio for the cpu but I have upgraded from a corsair 760t case to a phanteks enthoo primo and picked up 2 evga 1080 ti ftw3's and plan on putting in custom loop for both cards and cpu. Will deliding and putting it on custom loop instead of aio give me better oc's? temps should be rather good with 3 rads cooling everything. a 480-30mm on top a 240-46mm in the front and a 360-86mm on the bottom all will have push pull.
thanks for your thoughts and input about my upgrade.


----------



## Mega Man

I wouldn't delid it, you can, but you will need far more then that kit. These are soldered and you will destroy the pcb if you try to use it.


----------



## FIDDY57

I will install the 4960x to make sure it is working then I can try the kit out on the 4930k I pull out. if works will do the 60x. thanks for the heads up. there are a few kits out there that do a good job of it. check you tube.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I will install the 4960x to make sure it is working then I can try the kit out on the 4930k I pull out. if works will do the 60x. thanks for the heads up. there are a few kits out there that do a good job of it. check you tube.


5.1 on 4960x







LN2 or chilled water maybe .

With the right DDR3 ram you should easy get 2800Mhz out of it @ 4.6 , 4.7Ghz


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I wouldn't delid it, you can, but you will need far more then that kit. These are soldered and you will destroy the pcb if you try to use it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 5.1 on 4960x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LN2 or chilled water maybe .
> 
> With the right DDR3 ram you should easy get 2800Mhz out of it @ 4.6 , 4.7Ghz


@FIDDY57

Listen to these guys they know what they are talking about. Delidding Ivy-E is not recommended anywhere because these chips are soldered and delidding them will break the solder.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @FIDDY57
> 
> Listen to these guys they know what they are talking about. Delidding Ivy-E is not recommended anywhere because these chips are soldered and delidding them will break the solder.


Coming here and talking of delidding IVYBE ......................










You will bork the die on your chip(s) .

( DONT ) Put a blow torch to it . That should melt the solder


----------



## FIDDY57

i really need some help on how to install the update that i downloaded in a zip file and now is a "CAP" file.
I have looked at you tube videos and i dont see the slot on the back of my R4BE that i am supposed to put into to flash the bios.? also i am not sure how exactly that is supposed to be done. I have transfered the cap file to a thumb drive from the 1st page on this thread that said it is the most recent bios. but see a button to push. and will it take and up date what is a cap file on the thumb drive., My concern is i plan on putting a different cpu a 4960x into it and have read it will need a updated bios.
I keep getting these popups every so often about new bios available for my mobo but when i click it it basicaly does nothing. when it says click here for update.
I am truely lost about how to do this if anyone can help i would greatly appreciate it.
thanks group.


----------



## FIDDY57




----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Coming here and talking of delidding IVYBE ......................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will bork the die on your chip(s) .
> 
> ( DONT ) Put a blow torch to it . That should melt the solder


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Coming here and talking of delidding IVYBE ......................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will bork the die on your chip(s) .
> 
> ( DONT ) Put a blow torch to it . That should melt the solder


why so mean about this , this is not some rare crazy thing that is being done.. lol in aany event. if i get my new 4960x i will pull my 4930k and test the kit. if succesfull i will post videos and benchmarks. thank you for being so open minding about this


----------



## FIDDY57

great to see we have such a great fan based group for those of use that love our R4EB MOBO. and mine is getting a major overhaul lol.


----------



## alancsalt

Ivy Bridge-E is different to Ivy Bridge - soldered under the lid rather than having thermal paste. Different. No good reason to delid them.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> *why so mean about this , this is not some rare crazy thing that is being done.. lol* in aany event. if i get my new 4960x i will pull my 4930k and test the kit. if succesfull i will post videos and benchmarks. thank you for being so open minding about this


Cause unfortunately till now from what I'm reading you don't know or realize the difference between IVB and IVBE and TIM ( paste ) and solder .........









Nice rig though


----------



## FIDDY57

Thanks well since i have money i have fun will be a fun experiment thanks for your overwhelming to uncluding embarrassing way to let me know anout it. I have 2 cpus will show hows its done lmao


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> Thanks well since i have money i have fun will be a fun experiment thanks for your overwhelming to uncluding embarrassing way to let me know anout it. I have 2 cpus will show hows its done lmao


Go right ahead and do it then . Make sure you post some pics .

http://www.hardcoreware.net/solder-ivy-bridge-e-4960x-delidded/

http://www.overclock.net/t/1403246/coolaler-i7-4960x-delidded/0_40

Save your money for a custom water loop instead


----------



## Derek1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> Thanks well since i have money i have fun will be a fun experiment thanks for your overwhelming to uncluding embarrassing way to let me know anout it. I have 2 cpus will show hows its done lmao


Ya I am not too clear on WHY you want to do this.
Have you had the 4960x in the machine yet to see what it can do?
There really isn't much point in delidding it if there isn't a possibility of it reaching 5.0 and you need to control temps right?
Most 4960x won't do 4.7 let alone reach 5.0. If you need 1.5v or more to get it there then you will have temp issues but it won't lower v core enough to make it stable 24/7.
Just curious.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

He got it confused with IVB that's why









Ive gotten a 5 Ghz val out of my 4960x ....... and that's about it


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> why so mean about this , this is not some rare crazy thing that is being done.. lol in aany event. if i get my new 4960x i will pull my 4930k and test the kit. if succesfull i will post videos and benchmarks. thank you for being so open minding about this


The people that have been responding to your post know what they are talking about as they have been doing this kind of stuff for a long time. They aren't being mean about it (maybe a little) but TBH this is "a rare and crazy thing that is being done". If you can do it then good on you. But I do not know of anyone who has actually done this.
All the videos you posted are not for the IvyB E chips like you have. They primarily show the 7700K cpu which is a kaby lake chip and different from the IvyB E chips you and each one of us here have. You should really read the article posted here as it talks about delidding an Ivy B E chip.
Note that you can delid the Ivy B chips but not the Ivy B E chips like for this MB. That "E" at the end makes all the difference.

Flashing your bios is quite easy on this board. All you need to do is rename the file R4BE.CAP and read page 2-13 of the MB manual. If you need the manual again you can find it on the Asus support page. Here is a link to the RIVBE MB manual.

Here is the thing. You want to delid your cpu and delidding a IvyB E chip is next to impossible if at all possible, but you have been unable to figure out how to flash your bios to the one that works for you.

Maybe it is possible in some way to delid the Ivy B E chips but I think it would take someone with some mad skills (soldering, micro miniature electronics, etc) to accomplish such a thing. Do you have those mad skills?

IRT the youtube videos you posted on delidding, can you find any on delidding an Ivy B E chip?


----------



## c0ld

So much stupidity on FIDDY's posts, they already explained to you nicely that its is not posible to delid IB-E chips because they are soldered instead of just using paste like regular IB chips. Yet you disregarded their sound advice with sources, that's why they are gonna make fun of you.

You can't even figure out how to upgrade/flash your BIOS, yet you still want to go ahead and destroy(because it is not possible) a perfectly working chip then be my guest.

Be sure to post updates I wanna get a good laugh.


----------



## FARRUKH1992

Hi everyone . Im new here . And I have a question. Trying to use NVME 960 prov512gb with asus hyper m2 x4 mini pcie adapter. Trying to install windows 10 pro on it , and on first reboot it says can't find windows /32 loader .exe or it starts booting windows installation manager by itself , only free slot for pcie I have is bottom one . All lanes are Gen 3 , in bios even flashed bios to 0208 from latest replies about nvme please help
I have i7 4960x
64gb dominator platinum 2400mhz kit
Titan X sli
And sound card


----------



## Raghar

Is FIDDY57 aware that Ivy-E is about 1.5x larger than tinny normal CPU, and only der8auer tool was able to delid it? It's only 2-3 C difference thus definitely NOT worthy. Going from one fan to two on air heatsink does MUCH more.

Also why would anyone use the buggy mess that's BIOS 0208? Get proper BIOS and first try to use it as a normal SSD, just to see if it's working. Then you can try the spying buggy mess that's W10.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I used it this year for .1 lower vcore on daily o/c than later bios did for the last couple of years


----------



## Laithan

I couldn't recommend using 0208 either. I too was curious and I've asked fair questions (unanswered) but it appears that there's nobody that really knows much about it. The change log of all of the release BIOS' say that features/compatibility/stability were added and bugs were fixed so I guess I'm quitting while I'm ahead.. If it isn't broke don't fix it


----------



## ProfeZZor X

[/URL]


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


What's it look like in your rig?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I will install the 4960x to make sure it is working then I can try the kit out on the 4930k I pull out. if works will do the 60x. thanks for the heads up. there are a few kits out there that do a good job of it. check you tube.


ok, lets try again,

there is NO kit that can delid ANY 2011,

the kits are designed to delid a cpu on 115x., that said the 2011 cpu WILL NOT fit into nay slot ( that i am aware of ) on that tool. if it does, and you use it, you will literally 1) break the silicone, 2) break the pcb both will result in a DOA processor.

if you are so inclined to kill a cpu just sell it to me, as i have an extra board that can use it.

the difference is the 115x use tim under the ihs. the 2011 are soldered directly to the ihs
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> why so mean about this , this is not some rare crazy thing that is being done.. lol in aany event. if i get my new 4960x i will pull my 4930k and test the kit. if succesfull i will post videos and benchmarks. thank you for being so open minding about this
> 
> 
> 
> The people that have been responding to your post know what they are talking about as they have been doing this kind of stuff for a long time. They aren't being mean about it (maybe a little) but TBH this is "a rare and crazy thing that is being done". If you can do it then good on you. But I do not know of anyone who has actually done this.
> All the videos you posted are not for the IvyB E chips like you have. They primarily show the 7700K cpu which is a kaby lake chip and different from the IvyB E chips you and each one of us here have. You should really read the article posted here as it talks about delidding an Ivy B E chip.
> Note that you can delid the Ivy B chips but not the Ivy B E chips like for this MB. That "E" at the end makes all the difference.
> 
> Flashing your bios is quite easy on this board. All you need to do is rename the file R4BE.CAP and read page 2-13 of the MB manual. If you need the manual again you can find it on the Asus support page. Here is a link to the RIVBE MB manual.
> 
> Here is the thing. You want to delid your cpu and delidding a IvyB E chip is next to impossible if at all possible, but you have been unable to figure out how to flash your bios to the one that works for you.
> 
> Maybe it is possible in some way to delid the Ivy B E chips but I think it would take someone with some mad skills (soldering, micro miniature electronics, etc) to accomplish such a thing. Do you have those mad skills?
> 
> IRT the youtube videos you posted on delidding, can you find any on delidding an Ivy B E chip?
Click to expand...

he is correct about the bios flashing.

you can delid a soldered cpu it involves a torch, @ShrimpBrime iirc does it often. it has been done with many, but most recents being, fx, ryzen, a few 2011




thats the most unique way i have seen

this is very very very dangerous ~! if you chose to do this, it is at your own risk !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


i love those bends !

i want rant for a min

it is bad enough that win 10 corrupts every other windows install on a machine ( tested on 5 different pcs, with both win 7 and win 8 in other HDDs at install. as if that was not bad enough, on the same 5 machines, during various windows 10 updates it has done the same ..... )

i moved from my th10 to my tx10 my RIVBE....... and windows would not boot. i unhooked everything but my keyboard, still no boot. although now my pc no longer got stuck in the spinning circle........

i could boot into safe mode. i could boot to a disk. i could NOT restore or refresh pc. both would end in errors....

i HATE windows 10. i hate the fact that this is being forced on us. i hope someone starts making a comparable os, that we can game on, that works as well ( gaming wise ) i use linux where i can. but windows has its purposes..... to make matters worse, they charge us for it, then advertise to use in it, and collect data to do so better. this needs to stop. cortana needs to stop and be killed. please give us back our pc


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i want rant for a min
> 
> it is bad enough that win 10 corrupts every other windows install on a machine ( tested on 5 different pcs, with both win 7 and win 8 in other HDDs at install. as if that was not bad enough, on the same 5 machines, during various windows 10 updates it has done the same ..... )
> 
> i moved from my th10 to my tx10 my RIVBE....... and windows would not boot. i unhooked everything but my keyboard, still no boot. although now my pc no longer got stuck in the spinning circle........
> 
> i could boot into safe mode. i could boot to a disk. i could NOT restore or refresh pc. both would end in errors....
> 
> i HATE windows 10. i hate the fact that this is being forced on us. i hope someone starts making a comparable os, that we can game on, that works as well ( gaming wise ) i use linux where i can. but windows has its purposes..... to make matters worse, they charge us for it, then advertise to use in it, and collect data to do so better. this needs to stop. cortana needs to stop and be killed. please give us back our pc


*Amen brother...*



Spoiler: I also couldn't resist












can't help it.. It's such a shame to see what Microsoft (and the internet in general) has become (and how low they've stooped). I won't touch W10 for this reason... it literally turns the consumer into a product/employee but the catch is *we* aren't getting paid...they are... Would you let a stranger walk into your house, search your personal belongings to get an idea of the things you like and do and then leave advertising pamphlets based on that discovery of "metadata" (they promised not to look in her top dresser drawer) on your kitchen table any time they want? Is it really much different?

This oldie but goodie isn't showing any age at all... DX12 is poop IMHO so I'm not missing ANYTHING there.. (so I can't play GOW4.. whoopie lol)

_Microsoft Windows [Version 6.1.7601]
Copyright (c) 2009 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.

C:\>systeminfo

Host Name:
OS Name: Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate
OS Version: 6.1.7601 Service Pack 1 Build 7601
OS Manufacturer: Microsoft Corporation
OS Configuration: Member Workstation
OS Build Type: Multiprocessor Free
Registered Owner: Test
Registered Organization:
Product ID: 00426-OEM-8992662-00400
Original Install Date: 11/8/2009, 12:36:07 AM
System Boot Time: 6/11/2017, 6:32:30 PM
_

She runs as good as the day she was installed and my boot times are still amazing. Granted I've changed quite a bit of hardware through the years but performance was always what was expected at the time.... and still is when you know how to keep things clean.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I had mega headaches with that creators update but after 3 reinstalls and at the same time dram errors from a dodgey stick

This last time I reinstalled win 10 AND all the updates and creator first ........ now its running perfect and a little quicker especially boot times









Also 0208 like ive said many times now reduced my previous [email protected] vcore by .1vc and that's why I tried it and it worked well too .

So in my case I had a good result with 0208 .

Just cause it didn't work or gets the result for some ...... doesn't mean its borked









What I'm gathering is Noobs see posts on less vcore and install it thinking its gonna fix their O/C ( really not having a clue ) when they need to go into bios and learn to tweek it before hand ....









I'm using my RIVE & 3930k and ( Damn Corsair







) triple channel combo now after I got my RIVBE back ( in 24hrs LooooL ) tested and cleaned its back in its box having a rest waiting for its next turn


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok, lets try again,
> 
> there is NO kit that can delid ANY 2011,
> 
> the kits are designed to delid a cpu on 115x., that said the 2011 cpu WILL NOT fit into nay slot ( that i am aware of ) on that tool. if it does, and you use it, you will literally 1) break the silicone, 2) break the pcb both will result in a DOA processor.
> 
> if you are so inclined to kill a cpu just sell it to me, as i have an extra board that can use it.
> 
> the difference is the 115x use tim under the ihs. the 2011 are soldered directly to the ihs
> he is correct about the bios flashing.
> 
> you can delid a soldered cpu it involves a torch, @ShrimpBrime iirc does it often. it has been done with many, but most recents being, fx, ryzen, a few 2011
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats the most unique way i have seen
> 
> this is very very very dangerous ~! if you chose to do this, it is at your own risk !
> 
> i want rant for a min
> 
> it is bad enough that win 10 corrupts every other windows install on a machine ( tested on 5 different pcs, with both win 7 and win 8 in other HDDs at install. as if that was not bad enough, on the same 5 machines, during various windows 10 updates it has done the same ..... )
> 
> i moved from my th10 to my tx10 my RIVBE....... and windows would not boot. i unhooked everything but my keyboard, still no boot. although now my pc no longer got stuck in the spinning circle........
> 
> i could boot into safe mode. i could boot to a disk. i could NOT restore or refresh pc. both would end in errors....
> 
> i HATE windows 10. i hate the fact that this is being forced on us. i hope someone starts making a comparable os, that we can game on, that works as well ( gaming wise ) i use linux where i can. but windows has its purposes..... to make matters worse, they charge us for it, then advertise to use in it, and collect data to do so better. this needs to stop. cortana needs to stop and be killed. please give us back our pc


Wow, I have never heard of, much less seen someone delid a soldered CPU. It seems a lot more dangerous for the CPU than for one that isn't soldered.

I am sorry you have had so many issues with Windows 10. I have been on it since it came out July of last year and though I have had some minor hiccups Windows 10 has been great for me so far. But I don't have the creators update just yet so we'll see.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What's it look like in your rig?


it's kind of dark, but here are a few pics








[/URL]







[/URL]


----------



## FIDDY57

I would like to thank the thread for all of there input about my thoughts about delidding my 4930k or 4960x cpus. I dont have alot of free time and usually do alot of research before upgrading or modifying anything on my rig. this particular instance i did not. I got so excited about the possibility of increases oc speeds much higher than 4.5 that i was blindly taking a few other folks word for it that delidding would work for my particular instance... as stated on this thread it would not. up until the last person actually post links giving me something else to go by other than "its not going to work" i needed to do more research. after a few hours last night i came across many sites that will tell you how great delliding your cpu is but never say what cpu it is. the sellers of the products as well will email me and tell me only that it will work with ivy-bridge. .thats it. so i found a few links of my own. https://www.techpowerup.com/186209/intel-core-i7-4960x-de-lidded as well as : https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/29453-intel-core-i7-4960x-de-lidded/ and https://www.hardocp.com/news/2013/06/24/core_i7_4960x_ruined_during_delidding_attempt

Again I would like to thank everyone for helping me see the light. for those that seem to not understand that everyone is not as smart as everyone else and just wanted a good laugh not so much. I built my rig and currently upgrading it into a new phantek enthoo primo case and added 2 evga 1080ti ftw3's and putting it all on custom loop. im sure i will be back with more questions asking for help then.
i appologize to the thread for being so ignorant. I will try my best to not let that happen again.
from one fellow owner of the R4BE to another i wish you a good day.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I would like to thank the thread for all of there input about my thoughts about delidding my 4930k or 4960x cpus. I dont have alot of free time and usually do alot of research before upgrading or modifying anything on my rig. this particular instance i did not. I got so excited about the possibility of increases oc speeds much higher than 4.5 that i was blindly taking a few other folks word for it that delidding would work for my particular instance... as stated on this thread it would not. up until the last person actually post links giving me something else to go by other than "its not going to work" i needed to do more research. after a few hours last night i came across many sites that will tell you how great delliding your cpu is but never say what cpu it is. the sellers of the products as well will email me and tell me only that it will work with ivy-bridge. .thats it. so i found a few links of my own. https://www.techpowerup.com/186209/intel-core-i7-4960x-de-lidded as well as : https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/29453-intel-core-i7-4960x-de-lidded/ and https://www.hardocp.com/news/2013/06/24/core_i7_4960x_ruined_during_delidding_attempt
> 
> Again I would like to thank everyone for helping me see the light. for those that seem to not understand that everyone is not as smart as everyone else and just wanted a good laugh not so much. I built my rig and currently upgrading it into a new phantek enthoo primo case and added 2 evga 1080ti ftw3's and putting it all on custom loop. im sure i will be back with more questions asking for help then.
> i appologize to the thread for being so ignorant. I will try my best to not let that happen again.
> from one fellow owner of the R4BE to another i wish you a good day.


Eh, don't be so hard on yourself. We've all made that same mistake, I know I have a few times. The lesson to learn from this is to listen and to not block out others that may not have a good outlook for what you want to do. You did learn (as did I) it is possible to delid an Ivy B E but not in the way you thought.
TBH sometimes people can come across as a little brash and degrading, though they may not mean it or realize they are acting that way. Which can put people like you on the defensive and cause you to close down to their advice, it's normal.

But you should be happy that your 4930k reached 4.5ghz. My last 4930k could only do 4.3ghz with a 1.38 vcore and nothing I did could get it stable at 4.4ghz. I ran it at 4.3ghz daily until it finally crapped out completely. I got it replaced under the Intel Tuning plan and this one can hit 4.4ghz with no issue at all and with much less vcore than my old chip took to hit 4.3ghz, but I can't get it stable at 4.5ghz. I have yet to try changing different settings for better stability as listed in the guide I have (that I can no longer find online).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I would like to thank the thread for all of there input about my thoughts about delidding my 4930k or 4960x cpus. I dont have alot of free time and usually do alot of research before upgrading or modifying anything on my rig. this particular instance i did not. I got so excited about the possibility of increases oc speeds much higher than 4.5 that i was blindly taking a few other folks word for it that delidding would work for my particular instance... as stated on this thread it would not. up until the last person actually post links giving me something else to go by other than "its not going to work" i needed to do more research. after a few hours last night i came across many sites that will tell you how great delliding your cpu is but never say what cpu it is. the sellers of the products as well will email me and tell me only that it will work with ivy-bridge. .thats it. so i found a few links of my own. https://www.techpowerup.com/186209/intel-core-i7-4960x-de-lidded as well as : https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/29453-intel-core-i7-4960x-de-lidded/ and https://www.hardocp.com/news/2013/06/24/core_i7_4960x_ruined_during_delidding_attempt
> 
> Again I would like to thank everyone for helping me see the light. for those that seem to not understand that everyone is not as smart as everyone else and just wanted a good laugh not so much. I built my rig and currently upgrading it into a new phantek enthoo primo case and added 2 evga 1080ti ftw3's and putting it all on custom loop. im sure i will be back with more questions asking for help then.
> i appologize to the thread for being so ignorant. I will try my best to not let that happen again.
> from one fellow owner of the R4BE to another i wish you a good day.


@FIDDY57

it isnt about being right or not, we wanted to help you.

it isnt about being smart or not. no amount of smarts will let you know this stuff, its experience. we just wanted to save you from making a very expensive mistake.

if you need help, let us know !


----------



## spinFX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Eh, don't be so hard on yourself. We've all made that same mistake, I know I have a few times. The lesson to learn from this is to listen and to not block out others that may not have a good outlook for what you want to do. You did learn (as did I) it is possible to delid an Ivy B E but not in the way you thought.
> TBH sometimes people can come across as a little brash and degrading, though they may not mean it or realize they are acting that way. Which can put people like you on the defensive and cause you to close down to their advice, it's normal.
> 
> But you should be happy that your 4930k reached 4.5ghz. My last 4930k could only do 4.3ghz with a 1.38 vcore and nothing I did could get it stable at 4.4ghz. I ran it at 4.3ghz daily until it finally crapped out completely. I got it replaced under the Intel Tuning plan and this one can hit 4.4ghz with no issue at all and with much less vcore than my old chip took to hit 4.3ghz, but I can't get it stable at 4.5ghz. I have yet to try changing different settings for better stability as listed in the guide I have (that I can no longer find online).


Hmm, my 4930K is in the same boat, needs about 1.38 for 4.3 also. I've never used Intel Tuning Plans, I wonder if I can buy one today in the hopes that I'll be able to get a new chip down the track.


----------



## FIDDY57

thank you very much for your replies. i ran a cpuz stress test and have ai suite 3 with cpu clock set in bios for 4.5 just oc settings not xmp or anything else and hope you can see the photo ok

if you cant read the image it shows oc reaching 4505.0Mhz dram freq 1332 1.436v and temp never over 47.0c after 30 min. i used bandicam to take the screen shot. and i have a 4k monitor so not sure if you can read it. 

if you cannot read image i posted it up on

imgur


http://imgur.com/8fN5HdP


----------



## FIDDY57

it will be interesting to see what the 4960x on ekwb water block will do. will show info when i get it built


----------



## c0ld

Finally you came to your senses. People started to pick on you because you didn't listen and tried to counter with more irrelevant links, instead of actually reading what people were trying to explain to you

Hopefully you get a good clocking chip I got lucky with my 4960x its does 4.7Ghz stable at 1.35v i tried for 4.8 but I didn't want to fiddle more than 1.4v. I may try later for benching,


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> thank you very much for your replies. i ran a cpuz stress test and have ai suite 3 with cpu clock set in bios for 4.5 just oc settings not xmp or anything else and hope you can see the photo ok
> 
> if you cant read the image it shows oc reaching 4505.0Mhz dram freq 1332 1.436v and temp never over 47.0c after 30 min. i used bandicam to take the screen shot. and i have a 4k monitor so not sure if you can read it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you cannot read image i posted it up on
> 
> imgur
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/8fN5HdP


I can read it just fine. One thing. Your vcore is to high. The safe max vcore is 1.4v for these chips and many don't even recommend using that much vcore. That being said I have heard of people running a higher vcore than 1.4v but not sure how long it lasted or under what kind of load the cpus were under. FYI, before you go into anymore OCing you should check into the Intel tuning plan for both your chips. I posted a link below.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spinFX*
> 
> Hmm, my 4930K is in the same boat, needs about 1.38 for 4.3 also. I've never used Intel Tuning Plans, I wonder if I can buy one today in the hopes that I'll be able to get a new chip down the track.


You can check but there is a good chance any socket 2011 chips are now out of warranty range. From what I remember when I did it about two years ago they base the warranty limits on when the chip was released. But I just checked and it looks like the 4930ks are still covered and they are still only $25. FYI when I got the plan I asked their customer service if I could get my chip replaced based on the limits I was getting. I also told him I had hit 4.4ghz and was running prime95 (around 30mins) when I got a bsod and since then I couldn't hit 4.4ghz anymore for more than 5mins at best. He said that was exactly what the Intel tuning plan was designed for. But I procrastinated for over a year until my chip completely died on me last December. So it all paid off in the end. Here is a link to the plan purchase page. Note that once you get the plan it takes a month for it to take effect due to policy, but I think it is a good plan to get for only $25.


----------



## spinFX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You can check but there is a good chance any socket 2011 chips are now out of warranty range. From what I remember when I did it about two years ago they base the warranty limits on when the chip was released. But I just checked and it looks like the 4930ks are still covered and they are still only $25. FYI when I got the plan I asked their customer service if I could get my chip replaced based on the limits I was getting. I also told him I had hit 4.4ghz and was running prime95 (around 30mins) when I got a bsod and since then I couldn't hit 4.4ghz anymore for more than 5mins at best. He said that was exactly what the Intel tuning plan was designed for. But I procrastinated for over a year until my chip completely died on me last December. So it all paid off in the end. Here is a link to the plan purchase page. Note that once you get the plan it takes a month for it to take effect due to policy, but I think it is a good plan to get for only $25.


Yeah after I asked I checked and saw you could still buy it, which I guess means it's all good. I think I might get it then and see what happens out of interest. No harm getting a fresh(ish) cpu, thanks for the info.


----------



## FIDDY57

I will definitely perchase the plan for my 4930k for 25.00 usd. Do you know if its available for the 4960x ?
Thankyou for the great information and if they have the olan for both i will get it for both.
Again thank you. I will also lower my vcore below 1.4. I usually run default settings for gaming.


----------



## The Storm

Maybe I got lucky and have a good 4930k? I purchased mine on april 30th of 2014 from amazon, I have been running this chip at 1.29v at 4.4 since then, Its been rock stable this whole time, I never really tried pushing it hard for day to day usage. I do remember it posting at 4.8 but don't remember voltage and I was too chicken to hurt it. Now that these chips are cheaper I may push it and see what it can really do.


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Maybe I got lucky and have a good 4930k? I purchased mine on april 30th of 2014 from amazon, I have been running this chip at 1.29v at 4.4 since then, Its been rock stable this whole time, I never really tried pushing it hard for day to day usage. I do remember it posting at 4.8 but don't remember voltage and I was too chicken to hurt it. Now that these chips are cheaper I may push it and see what it can really do.


I picked up my 4960x on ebay for 225.00usd


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

It all comes down to how good your CPU and VRM cooling is









Lower the vcore and go up a level of LLC to high or Ultra dependent on clock speed ofc


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> It all comes down to how good your CPU and VRM cooling is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lower the vcore and go up a level of LLC to high or Ultra dependent on clock speed ofc


It's been on water since day one. And way overkill on radiators, in had 3 290x's until recently and now just on 1 1080ti. 2 rx480's 1 rx240, 1 ex240 with 2 mp35x. The vrms are not on water.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> It's been on water since day one. And way overkill on radiators, in had 3 290x's until recently and now just on 1 1080ti. 2 rx480's 1 rx240, 1 ex240 with 2 mp35x. The vrms are not on water.


4960x , 3930k is on a waterchiller direct no rads . 3 R9 290's on two 420 rads and a 1hp chiller .

Vrm has two 80 mm fans on it and chunky heatsinks on the vrm plate on back of mobo


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spinFX*
> 
> Yeah after I asked I checked and saw you could still buy it, which I guess means it's all good. I think I might get it then and see what happens out of interest. No harm getting a fresh(ish) cpu, thanks for the info.


purchase of the 4930k tuning plan complete. I didn't get one for the 4960x just yet. I have 6mo warranty for any failure of it that I bought at the time of purchase from ebay.
thanks again. feel better know I will get a free replacement if I burn the thing up by accident.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I picked up my 4960x on ebay for 225.00usd


I'll be looking for one of those come here in a few months. Maybe there will be another one at that low cost again. I am also planning on going up to a 360mm rad in my system for better temps on my CPU. I will probably go with the H320-X2 as I much prefer the Swiftech AIOs, they have been doing a great job for me so far. I have two (a H240-X on the CPU and a H140-X on my GPU) in my system right now.


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I'll be looking for one of those come here in a few months. Maybe there will be another one at that low cost again. I am also planning on going up to a 360mm rad in my system for better temps on my CPU. I will probably go with the H320-X2 as I much prefer the Swiftech AIOs, they have been doing a great job for me so far. I have two (a H240-X on the CPU and a H140-X on my GPU) in my system right now.


I bought a new phantex enthoo primo case to build a custom loop for the cpu and both evga 1080ti ftw3's I bought 3 rads, top 480-30mm, front 240-46mm, bottom monsta 360-86mm with d5 pump. the rads are alphacool all the other parts except the gpu blocks that I am waiting on are from ekwb. I am hoping it will keep temps down a bit. the cpu block is a evo supremecy 2011 nickel If remember correctly lol I bought everything over 3 months ago and still waiting on ekwb


----------



## Kimir

My 4930K [email protected] still working fine after many years. I had it at [email protected] for a few months, but when I got the 5960X I put it back at 4.8. It's not like it gets hot anyway lol.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> My 4930K [email protected] still working fine after many years. I had it at [email protected] for a few months, but when I got the 5960X I put it back at 4.8. It's not like it gets hot anyway lol.


Nice! Grats on hitting the silicon lottery with that one. And yes, I've had mine at or near 1.4v for years as well, with no noticeable degradation. Although it probably helps that I use adaptive vcore so it's not sitting at 1.4v 24/7.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Nice! Grats on hitting the silicon lottery with that one. And yes, I've had mine at or near 1.4v for years as well, with no noticeable degradation. Although it probably helps that I use adaptive vcore so it's not sitting at 1.4v 24/7.


I paid the price to get that one lol, yeah adaptive all the way. Not updating to win10 tho (I like my win7 still), because adaptive using additional turbo voltage is borked with microcode update.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I paid the price to get that one lol, yeah adaptive all the way. Not updating to win10 tho (I like my win7 still), because adaptive using additional turbo voltage is borked with microcode update.


OMG, someone else who knows about this! I feel positively vindicated. lol

I literally found that bug during the W10 beta. Took me months to figure out what was going on. It has to do with the VMM process. IIRC, you can solve it by fully disabling VMM in both bios AND windows processes.


----------



## spinFX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> My 4930K [email protected] still working fine after many years. I had it at [email protected] for a few months, but when I got the 5960X I put it back at 4.8. It's not like it gets hot anyway lol.


4.8 on 4930K is a golden sample!


----------



## spinFX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> OMG, someone else who knows about this! I feel positively vindicated. lol
> 
> I literally found that bug during the W10 beta. Took me months to figure out what was going on. It has to do with the VMM process. IIRC, you can solve it by fully disabling VMM in both bios AND windows processes.


Ahh yes when I ran win10 for a short period I had to lower my OC. Is that what you guys are talking about. Disabling VMM in bios, does that mean disabling all virtualization tech on the cpu (VTd/VTx)? I needs those.
Will keep this in mind, going to move up to win10 soon-ish i think.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spinFX*
> 
> Ahh yes when I ran win10 for a short period I had to lower my OC. Is that what you guys are talking about. Disabling VMM in bios, does that mean disabling all virtualization tech on the cpu (VTd/VTx)? I needs those.
> Will keep this in mind, going to move up to win10 soon-ish i think.


Yes, but also in the OS you have to delete any VM containers you may have created and DISABLE the Windows VM processes. When the VM process is loaded, the system thinks your whole OS is a virtual machine, and it doesn't apply Additional Core Voltage at the hardware level. I never figured out whether the root of the bug was Intel, Microsoft, or Asus (I reported it to all 3), but at this point none of them are updating this platform so I guess it doesn't really matter anymore.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yes, but also in the OS you have to delete any VM containers you may have created and DISABLE the Windows VM processes. When the VM process is loaded, the system thinks your whole OS is a virtual machine, and it doesn't apply Additional Core Voltage at the hardware level.


Does it mean these who are using manual voltage are completely fine?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Does it mean these who are using manual voltage are completely fine?


yeah manual voltage is fine.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Yes, manual voltage & adaptive are fine. It's "Additional Core Voltage" under CPU options that is borked.


----------



## FIDDY57

Any recommendations on which bios i should download and install. There is like 4 or 5 newer versions than what i currently have that are listed on asus website. . Thank for your help.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> Any recommendations on which bios i should download and install. There is like 4 or 5 newer versions than what i currently have that are listed on asus website. . Thank for your help.


I do not know that much about the different bios available for this card but it all depends on what your goal is. I think the latest (either 0701 or 0801) work fine with any normal OCing but for some it seems the pre-release 0208 works best. Some have reported issues with most bios' for this card on Win 10 and I believe that is where the 0208 bios comes into play. A couple of the people who have responded to your previous queries were on the 0208 bios last I heard, hopefully one of them can comment.


----------



## The Storm

I want the 4960x, because it's so cheap now $225, I just don't know the benefit ibwill get already ccoming from a 4930k.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I want the 4960x, because it's so cheap now $225, I just don't know the benefit ibwill get already ccoming from a 4930k.


Just don't shop at Newegg or other major retailers as their prices range from $1k to almost $3k for the 4960X!.....LOL


----------



## Madmaxneo

Who on here has the Windows 10 Creators update installed for this board?
Have you had any problems with it so far?

I am asking because I am still on 1607 and think that I will never get an automatic update with this board because basically Asus is to lazy to look into it....


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I want the 4960x, because it's so cheap now $225, I just don't know the benefit ibwill get already ccoming from a 4930k.


I just purchased a 4960x on ebay for that price. I too currently have a 4930k. The x has a little more memory and has a higher base and boost clock. The clocks are not a whole lot better. But if you do alot of video editing and burning dvd's it will give you better performance.


----------



## c0ld

I got my 4960x brand new at $280 ish once I sell the intel 2011 cooler. Quite a steal for the speed it's running at


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I paid $900au for mine 3 years ago


----------



## The Storm

I really want one (4960x) because of how cheap you can get them. I just can't justify it over my 4930k, all I really do is game.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I really want one (4960x) because of how cheap you can get them. I just can't justify it over my 4930k, all I really do is game.


If I'm not mistaken, the 4930k generally oc's better than 4960X. There's literally no advantage other than the slightly additional cache.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> If I'm not mistaken, the 4930k generally oc's better than 4960X. There's literally no advantage other than the slightly additional cache.


Pretty much, my justification for upgrading was that I had a very poor overclocking 3930k it wasn't even that stable at 4.4GHz with 1.4v


----------



## FIDDY57

There still on ebay for 225.00 usd.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Well I havent seen any vals of 4930k doing 2800mhz + on the DRAM .

or 193 + on the blck either

I believe the 4960x has a very strong IMC .............


----------



## Kimir

My 4930K does fine with 2800, but can't use that freq. with adaptive voltage since it need 125 strap, so I stick to my 2133c8 setting lol


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> My 4930K does fine with 2800, but can't use that freq. with adaptive voltage since it need 125 strap, so I stick to my 2133c8 setting lol


So no then


----------



## Kimir

So yes, it just work fine with appropriate setting... dont' tell me you have 2800 working with strap 100 and adaptive, you know it's not possible.
I think I have some screen at 2800c10-12-12 somewhere, can't find that at work tho.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> So yes, it just work fine with appropriate setting... dont' tell me you have 2800 working with strap 100 and adaptive, you know it's not possible.
> I think I have some screen at 2800c10-12-12 somewhere, can't find that at work tho.


Your good mate just stirrin a bit . No 100 strap @ 2800 shame though .


----------



## FIDDY57

thought i would ask, i have been waiting for over 3 months for ekwb to come out with there gpu water blocks for my 2 new evga1080ti ftw3's. today they did. so i ordered two blocks clear and nickel and two backplates nickel. now before today i used ekwb configurator to order all the other parts months ago and it told me to buy the triple terminal to connect the two blocks. after taking look at this link because i already have the parts except the the blocks and backplates that will arrive next week. if this terminal is going to work on for my rampage 4 black edition. thanks for you help. first link for the terminal: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi

and the news about release of the blocks and back plates. https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-releasing-full-cover-water-blocks-evga-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-ftw3/

between purchasing the 4960x on ebay for 225.00 and all the parts for this custom water loop i am putting into a new case, its just a few $ of a upgrade lol. thank you for your help in letting me know if the terminal is the correct one for the spacing between pcie 16 slots. alos pic of my gpus:


----------



## Kimir

Triple serial or parallel (with the necessary hardware to cover the middle slot) is what you need yeah.

that's the R4E, not the BE but slots are the same. My R4BE is still in a box lol


----------



## FIDDY57

The hard part is i am putting in hard tuping petg. And hoping i have all the correct fittings and parts lol. Thanks for the help


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Triple serial or parallel (with the necessary hardware to cover the middle slot) is what you need yeah.
> 
> that's the R4E, not the BE but slots are the same. My R4BE is still in a box lol


Funny mines back in its box as well and I'm running my rive and 3930k combo again after nearly 3 years of hibernation


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> The hard part is i am putting in hard tuping petg. And hoping i have all the correct fittings and parts lol. Thanks for the help


That's a lot to take on if this is your first custom loop. And yeah, building your first loop costs a pretty penny. The good news, though, is that most of the loop hardware will work for several generations of upgrades, so a lot of what you spend on that first time is an investment for the long term. Good luck!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> That's a lot to take on if this is your first custom loop. And yeah, building your first loop costs a pretty penny. The good news, though, is that most of the loop hardware will work for several generations of upgrades, so a lot of what you spend on that first time is an investment for the long term. Good luck!


Yeah , qdc's make it a lot easier to add stuff to the loop and draining the whole loop is not always required with em


----------



## FIDDY57

so what are the benifets of using a terminal between two 1080ti ftw3's or just setting up tubing between them as a parrellel flow vs serial flow. is a terminal necessary?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> so what are the benifets of using a terminal between two 1080ti ftw3's or just setting up tubing between them as a parrellel flow vs serial flow. is a terminal necessary?












So you can pull your cards out together ?

If that's all your waitn for your to do your build do the tubing thing .


----------



## Menthol

If you use 2 tubes between cards it will be parallel, 1 tube is serial, the terminal needs installed on both cards outside the case before installing the cards, which make them one solid unit, the adjustable sliding tubes are installed after the cards are mounted on the motherboard, a little easier than a terminal


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> so what are the benifets of using a terminal between two 1080ti ftw3's or just setting up tubing between them as a parrellel flow vs serial flow. is a terminal necessary?


I did it for looks mainly.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> so what are the benifets of using a terminal between two 1080ti ftw3's or just setting up tubing between them as a parrellel flow vs serial flow. is a terminal necessary?


Theoretically, in serial flow the second card always runs slightly warmer than the first because the water is already heated when it reaches the second card. In parallel flow, both cards run the same temperature because un-heated water circulates through both cards simultaneously. In actual practice, if your loop is properly designed it makes no difference. The water will be circulating so fast that the whole system will change temperature as a holistic unit, not piecemeal. YMMV.

You'll probably get the best input on this in the watercooling section, though. There are some dedicated experts there just waiting to discuss this sort of thing at length.


----------



## Rayce185

If I were able to to get either an E5-2667 v2 or a 4960X, which would be preferrable?

Watercooled, used for gaming and (depending on hashrate) ETH mining.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> If I were able to to get either an E5-2667 v2 or a 4960X, which would be preferrable?
> 
> Watercooled, used for gaming and (depending on hashrate) ETH mining.


4960x cause you can overclock it .

The E-26xx's are multi locked .

But the E5 16xx's are unlocked multi









And I found out the new i9 10 core uses thermal paste and not solder to the IHS


----------



## Mega Man

Wow, supposedlysoldering is bad if the dies are small, due to failures. But 10 core.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> thought i would ask, i have been waiting for over 3 months for ekwb to come out with there gpu water blocks for my 2 new evga1080ti ftw3's. today they did. so i ordered two blocks clear and nickel and two backplates nickel. now before today i used ekwb configurator to order all the other parts months ago and it told me to buy the triple terminal to connect the two blocks. after taking look at this link because i already have the parts except the the blocks and backplates that will arrive next week. if this terminal is going to work on for my rampage 4 black edition. thanks for you help. first link for the terminal: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi
> 
> and the news about release of the blocks and back plates. https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-releasing-full-cover-water-blocks-evga-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-ftw3/
> 
> between purchasing the 4960x on ebay for 225.00 and all the parts for this custom water loop i am putting into a new case, its just a few $ of a upgrade lol. thank you for your help in letting me know if the terminal is the correct one for the spacing between pcie 16 slots. alos pic of my gpus:


Fyi that terminal block will not work with the rivbe, i tried, you need a 4 slot which is not made - count the pcie slot covers to verify, you will see 4, if you make the gpu single slot ( count the pcie slot covers in between the actual pcie slot then selves not the gpus)


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Wow, supposedlysoldering is bad if the dies are small, due to failures. But 10 core.....
> 
> Fyi that terminal block will not work with the rivbe, i tried, you need a 4 slot which is not made - count the pcie slot covers to verify, you will see 4, if you make the gpu single slot ( count the pcie slot covers in between the actual pcie slot then selves not the gpus)


So I am hoping the 12 14 16 and 18 core versions will be soldered .

There is no way on earth I would be delidding $900 + cpu let alone what these other variants prices might be . My pockets are not just not deep enough to risk a warranty eh .

At least it I can still use my 2011 cpu waterblocks if I was to go there .

I am gonna wait and see if the 1680v2 prices drop further









Then ofc there is threadripper


----------



## Mega Man

i dream of threadripper. hope i have recharged my cash by then ........


----------



## FIDDY57

i was looking at my parts checking over everything before my gpu blocks get here this thursday for the evga 1080ti ftw3's. and i was measuring the distance between the slots that my 2 gpus are currently sitting in on my r4be and the distance in approx 80mm. give or take a mm. then i took the serial ek-fc terminal and measured it as well. with the middle part being blocked and there dead on matching where they will go in on the gpu water blocks. everyone of ekwb terminals say the same thing.. For use with motherboards with PCIe x16 slots 40.6 mm (1.6") apart! and my two cards are are that distance x2
hoping i didnt waste my money on this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi when someone above states that it will not fit?
thanks for the help. again..


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> i was looking at my parts checking over everything before my gpu blocks get here this thursday for the evga 1080ti ftw3's. and i was measuring the distance between the slots that my 2 gpus are currently sitting in on my r4be and the distance in approx 80mm. give or take a mm. then i took the serial ek-fc terminal and measured it as well. with the middle part being blocked and there dead on matching where they will go in on the gpu water blocks. everyone of ekwb terminals say the same thing.. For use with motherboards with PCIe x16 slots 40.6 mm (1.6") apart! and my two cards are are that distance x2
> hoping i didnt waste my money on this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi when someone above states that it will not fit?
> thanks for the help. again..


Here is an old pic of my system with RIVE BE and EK-FC Terminal Triple Parallel with GTX 780 TI SLI. I have used the same terminal in multiple generations of cards like 780TIs, Titan X Maxwells, even two AMD 295X2 Ares III cards and it will fit just fine unless something has changed in the water blocks themselves. Also I've used this terminal over multiple boards like RIVE BE, R5E, R5E10 because the slots are spaced the same way.


----------



## Laithan

I use the exact same exact terminal and also have the RIVBE.


----------



## Mega Man

I apologize. I double checked, the terminal i got was different, so it may very well work

I got the triple slot serial. Which is what I thought you were talking about, my apologies


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Hey @MrTOOSHORT this mobo supports boot from PCIe ....... I couldn't remember how you did it

Cause I was thinking of running this Toshiba XG3 128GB PCIe NVMe R2100MBs W600MBs (like 128gb Samsung SM951)

and a PCIe X4 Adapter Card all up is $127 AU


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Just stuck the Intel 750 in and it was bootable. I think The 950 Pro is bootable natively too. Not sure about the 960.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Just stuck the Intel 750 in and it was bootable. I think The 950 Pro is bootable natively too. Not sure about the 960.


That's ridiculously simple then thanks mate and that's what I'm gonna do . Cant go wrong really

+1









EDIT

Okay then I gots the Toshiba XG3 128gb and PCIe adapter for $90AUD sent


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Here is an old pic of my system with RIVE BE and EK-FC Terminal Triple Parallel with GTX 780 TI SLI. I have used the same terminal in multiple generations of cards like 780TIs, Titan X Maxwells, even two AMD 295X2 Ares III cards and it will fit just fine unless something has changed in the water blocks themselves. Also I've used this terminal over multiple boards like RIVE BE, R5E, R5E10 because the slots are spaced the same way.


thanks for the info. I got the clear acrylic one: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-triple-parallel-plexi

finally got my ekwb gpu nickel water blocks and nickel back plates yesterday. time to start working finally on my upgrade.


----------



## FIDDY57

I was wondering if anyone has used the EK-TIM Indigo Xtreme - Intel 2011?? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tim-indigo-xtreme-intel-2011 It came with my cpu water block https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-elite-edition-intel-2011 . I was going to just use Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme or ic9diamond for tim. any thoughts from the group about this vs gelid or ic9?? thanks.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has used the EK-TIM Indigo Xtreme - Intel 2011?? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tim-indigo-xtreme-intel-2011 It came with my cpu water block https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-elite-edition-intel-2011 . I was going to just use Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme or ic9diamond for tim. any thoughts from the group about this vs gelid or ic9?? thanks.


The indigo extreme you have to melt it in and its not easy to get it right . I used it 3 times and only ever got 1 good mount

So Id be using the IC diamond got very good results with that


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has used the EK-TIM Indigo Xtreme - Intel 2011?? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tim-indigo-xtreme-intel-2011 It came with my cpu water block https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-elite-edition-intel-2011 . I was going to just use Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme or ic9diamond for tim. any thoughts from the group about this vs gelid or ic9?? thanks.


Best advice I can give on TIM is don't overthink it. The classic AS5 is as good today as it was a decade ago, and pretty much any application method will work as well as the next as long as you don't use too much. Just a rice-sized spec.


----------



## Mega Man

As5 needs to die. If you have it, use it, stop spending on out if you dont, if buying new at min buy mx4

As to the question, either is fine, I prefer ic diamond


----------



## alancsalt

AS5 was good in its day. There are better ones now. If it's an old dispenser you've had for ages, get something new. https://www.google.com.au/?gws_rd=ssl#q=TIM+comparison


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> AS5 was good in its day. There are better ones now. If it's an old dispenser you've had for ages, get something new. https://www.google.com.au/?gws_rd=ssl#q=TIM+comparison


I agree there are better products now. The point I was trying to make, perhaps poorly, was that the difference between available products is so minute as to be practically immaterial. If properly applied you're looking at a half a degree difference, if that much, between the best and the worst. Don't spin your wheels overthinking it. All it does is bridge the microscopic gaps between the IHS and your heatsink base. It's not like you're going to find some magic substance that suddenly drops your temps 10 degrees.


----------



## Laithan

AS5 is also electrically conductive... Agree it needs to die..

I am very happy with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for both CPU and GPU


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I just use MX4, good enough for me.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> AS5 is also electrically conductive... Agree it needs to die..
> 
> I am very happy with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for both CPU and GPU


actually it is not. it is capacitive, not conductive

http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:t4z0BksR57IJ:www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm+&cd=4&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us

( for some reason the as5 page isnt coming up .;... so you can read it there in the google cache )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leimrod*
> 
> From the website:
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AS5 Tech dude*
> 
> _Not Electrically Conductive:
> 
> Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.
> 
> (While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)_
> 
> 
> They are just covering their asses should it ever by any chance conduct anything, they have not stated how much capacitance it has because they don't have the figures, its probably so infinitessimally small that to get the kind of charge build up that would cause damage you'd need a 1 kilo blob of it on your mainboard.


----------



## dboythagr8

I think I used AS5 on my Kraken x62 :x

So what should I be looking out for or using instead?


----------



## Mega Man

I wouldn't change it, I wouldn't buy another tube new...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> As5 needs to die. If you have it, use it, stop spending on out if you dont, if buying new at min buy mx4
> 
> As to the question, either is fine, I prefer ic diamond


AS5 still works decently enough. A few months ago I had to use some for my build because I ran out of the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. It did ok but it was at least a 3 deg higher than the Grizzly stuff from what I remember. Once I got my order for the Grizzly stuff I promptly removed the AS5 for the Grizzly...lol.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I managed to score a Toshiba XG3 128gb ( 2150 / 600 ) NVMe and PCIe adapter for $90 sent .



My BE is having a rest and I'm gonna go raid 0 just need to get 2nd Toshiba


----------



## smrdel

Hello all

I have a quick question about this board and wish to apologize if its been covered already.

I just wanted to confirm Is it possible to install a PCIe M.2 SSD adaptor and install Windows 10 on the NVMe M.2 SSD and use it as a boot drive ?

I have read that its not possible on the X79 chipset ?


----------



## Mega Man

Please try the search function. In your case read the past above yours.


----------



## smrdel

So that is a yes then ?


----------



## Laithan

Comparison


NVMe is really impressive... that's a single drive?!?

This is (3) SATA6 SSDs with Toshiba toggle nand in RAID 0 using a PCIe cache controller (LSI 9260-8i) and it can't touch a single drive


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> So that is a yes then ?


Yes, a few on here have done that in the past. I believe it was added in a bios update.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Slightly off topic...
I just found out something that makes complete sense and was wondering.
Apparently dryer sheets are great for cleaning dust off of electronic parts primarily due to their anti static properties.
Has anyone tried this with their PC internals and/or keyboards?


----------



## Laithan

Interesting idea, a damp cloth usually isn't an issue with static either though. I would personally never "rub" anything over dust as it will likely scratch the surface unless I didn't care about that surface visually. Dryer sheets may be somewhat like sandpaper in this regard, not sure.

IMO there's only one tride and true solution, *a full blown compressor.* I've used compressors on my systems for years and the brute force air (be careful on fan fins) removes 98% of all dust without any friction/scratching and gets deep into small areas that few other methods would get into easily. Anyone that has previously used a full blown air compressor (and no, cans of air are *not* the same, not nearly the same power) knows exactly what I'm talking about.

I mean your motherboard, peripherals etc. look *BRAND NEW* again.. just with air and you don't even need to take the motherboard out of the case.











Spoiler: More info



Something like this, you'll use it for many things so well worth the investment.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Campbell-Hausfeld-FP209499AV-3-Gallon-Inflation-and-Fastening-Compressor-with-Accessory-Kit/12534870?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227009269075&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838688632&wl4=pla-78651795752&wl5=9002233&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=12534870&wl13=&veh=sem

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Interesting idea, a damp cloth usually isn't an issue with static either though. I would personally never "rub" anything over dust as it will likely scratch the surface unless I didn't care about that surface visually. Dryer sheets may be somewhat like sandpaper in this regard, not sure.
> 
> IMO there's only one tride and true solution, *a full blown compressor.* I've used compressors on my systems for years and the brute force air (be careful on fan fins) removes 98% of all dust without any friction/scratching and gets deep into small areas that few other methods would get into easily. Anyone that has previously used a full blown air compressor (and no, cans of air are *not* the same, not nearly the same power) knows exactly what I'm talking about.
> 
> I mean your motherboard, peripherals etc. look *BRAND NEW* again.. just with air and you don't even need to take the motherboard out of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More info
> 
> 
> 
> Something like this, you'll use it for many things so well worth the investment.
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/Campbell-Hausfeld-FP209499AV-3-Gallon-Inflation-and-Fastening-Compressor-with-Accessory-Kit/12534870?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227009269075&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838688632&wl4=pla-78651795752&wl5=9002233&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=12534870&wl13=&veh=sem
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html


Haha, yeah, no thank you.
The only place that would go is in the garage or shed. Those things tend to be noisy and cumbersome plus there is a chance you could do damage to some parts that may be loose with that much pressure. Plus you'll moire than likely stir up even more dust with that much pressure... ? Not to mention way out of my budget.
I'll stick with my cans of air (they do perfectly fine) and maybe a dryer sheet every so often. You do not need to rub it hard enough to cause a scratch, just ever so lightly so it rubs up against the dust.....lol. .


----------



## Laithan

I know, 0 points in the elegance category haha

Nobody ever thought Chocolate and Peanut butter went together either until that one special day









It's one of those things that until you try it for yourself you won't believe it haha


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Comparison
> 
> 
> NVMe is really impressive... that's a single drive?!?
> 
> This is (3) SATA6 SSDs with Toshiba toggle nand in RAID 0 using a PCIe cache controller (LSI 9260-8i) and it can't touch a single drive


Oh yes









Ive turned that Toshiba NVMe into a Origin games drive exclusively for BF1

Tried to set up sata raid 0 with pcie boot and I couldn't get it to play so I'm gonna order a Sammy 250gb 960 with 3100 / 1200 for Win 10









And pull my 290's out and remove one so I can has room for it and bandwith


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Interesting idea, a damp cloth usually isn't an issue with static either though. I would personally never "rub" anything over dust as it will likely scratch the surface unless I didn't care about that surface visually. Dryer sheets may be somewhat like sandpaper in this regard, not sure.
> 
> IMO there's only one tride and true solution, *a full blown compressor.* I've used compressors on my systems for years and the brute force air (be careful on fan fins) removes 98% of all dust without any friction/scratching and gets deep into small areas that few other methods would get into easily. Anyone that has previously used a full blown air compressor (and no, cans of air are *not* the same, not nearly the same power) knows exactly what I'm talking about.
> 
> I mean your motherboard, peripherals etc. look *BRAND NEW* again.. just with air and you don't even need to take the motherboard out of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More info
> 
> 
> 
> Something like this, you'll use it for many things so well worth the investment.
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/Campbell-Hausfeld-FP209499AV-3-Gallon-Inflation-and-Fastening-Compressor-with-Accessory-Kit/12534870?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227009269075&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838688632&wl4=pla-78651795752&wl5=9002233&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=12534870&wl13=&veh=sem
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html


Fyi.

1 this can cause a static discharge and can damage electronics
2 moisture potential - compressed air has high moisture content.

The above are warnings to people.

I use a vac personally or if I so choose nitrogen. Your air has got nothing on my nitrogen


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Fyi.
> 
> 1 this can cause a static discharge and can damage electronics
> 2 moisture potential - compressed air has high moisture content.
> 
> The above are warnings to people.
> 
> I use a vac personally or if I so choose nitrogen. Your air has got nothing on my nitrogen


Don't vacs have a chance of static discharge?


----------



## Mega Man

Yes, most anything traveling through a tube does. There are ways to "ground" it. Or just accept the risk.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes, most anything traveling through a tube does. There are ways to "ground" it. Or just accept the risk.


I'll just avoid the risk. I fried the USB ports to an old laptop when plugging in a USB extension cable because of static shock. The air here gets really dry in the winter (NW Indiana), the humidity drops to a little less than 25%, and the computer room is carpeted.... I have a humidifier in this room during the winter but it only raises the humidity like 4 or 5 points.

How do you ground a vacuum?


----------



## Mega Man

first, you only need 4-5 %, data centers recommended humidity is 30%

You dont ground the vac, you ground the air stream. Basically use your hand and block the air a bit and ground yourself. Never had an issue


----------



## Johann

Good day friends please assist with my sli setup I tride everything, my mb is only pick up one gpu and only the led by the pci-e switches for port 1 is lighting up what can be the problem?


----------



## Shadowarez

Could be the gpu try the 2nd in first slot if it works the it's the PCIe slit that buggered.

Also on a sad note I'll be putting my rive setup to task as a server was wondering on xeons I can place in here I'm looking for high core count. Seen a few on eBay but would rather draw from the experienced users in thread who Infact run xeons in there boards.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johann*
> 
> Good day friends please assist with my sli setup I tride everything, my mb is only pick up one gpu and only the led by the pci-e switches for port 1 is lighting up what can be the problem?


Post a pic pls


----------



## Johann

I did test it like that and both GPU's is working fine, the first slot light is lighting up and all the other is off even though all the switches is turned on


----------



## Shadowarez

Have you checked in bios if it's being seen in PCIe lane simulator
? Only other thing I can think of before rendering that PCIe slit buggered.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johann*
> 
> I did test it like that and both GPU's is working fine, the first slot light is lighting up and all the other is off even though all the switches is turned on


Silly question: do you have them in the correct slot configuration per the mobo instruction manual? IIRC, if you don't put them in the correct slots the system won't read them at all.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Also on a sad note I'll be putting my rive setup to task as a server was wondering on xeons I can place in here I'm looking for high core count. Seen a few on eBay but would rather draw from the experienced users in thread who Infact run xeons in there boards.


The maximum core count possible is 8 with an E5-1680v2... However unless you are planning to put more than 64GB of ram and/or that special 8-core (16 threads) then using your i7 will be just as good.

All other options will be 6c/12t max... there is literally only ONE choice for 8c/16t and *WAY* overpriced.


----------



## Shadowarez

Damn you're right there $890-1500 guess I can keep using my i7 then with 64gb of ram.


----------



## Fliwatuet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> The maximum core count possible is 8 with an E5-1680v2...


Is this CPU supported on the RIVBE? I am able to get one for 500 Euros...


----------



## maybach123

Issue fixed disregard post


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fliwatuet*
> 
> Is this CPU supported on the RIVBE? I am able to get one for 500 Euros...


Yes.. you may need a pre-requisite BIOS (others who have them here can probably provide additional detail) but it certainly is.

Just be sure it is a E5-1680V2..

There is also (beware of similar named cpus) E5-1650V2 and E5-1660V2 (both have 6C/12T) but only the E5-1680V2 is 8C/16T for these boards.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fliwatuet*
> 
> Is this CPU supported on the RIVBE? I am able to get one for 500 Euros...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Yes.. you may need a pre-requisite BIOS (others who have them here can probably provide additional detail) but it certainly is.
> 
> Just be sure it is a E5-1680V2..
> 
> There is also (beware of similar named cpus) E5-1650V2 and E5-1660V2 (both have 6C/12T) but only the E5-1680V2 is 8C/16T for these boards.
Click to expand...

The E5 1650,1660v2 and the 1680v2 should pop straight in and boot .


----------



## Fliwatuet

Thanks. I am using the latest non-Beta BIOS.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fliwatuet*
> 
> Thanks. I am using the latest non-Beta BIOS.


You should be okay


----------



## Fliwatuet

Thanks! There is of course still the question, if it is worth the 500,- Euros? Has the 1680V2 @4.2 GHz more single thread power than the 3930k @4.2? Another advantage is PCIe 3.0 over PCIe 2.0, even it is not much of a difference, but 3.0 will be needed if I want to use fast NVMe, right?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fliwatuet*
> 
> Thanks! There is of course still the question, if it is worth the 500,- Euros? Has the 1680V2 @4.2 GHz more single thread power than the 3930k @4.2? Another advantage is PCIe 3.0 over PCIe 2.0, even it is not much of a difference, but 3.0 will be needed if I want to use fast NVMe, right?


8c has moar cache and personally I would rather upgrade to final version of Ivybee cpu than drop the mega cash for a x99 x299 DDR4 setup









You would think it would eh . Unfortunately I don't own one yet









You will have to flash a NVMe bios to run PCIe x4 NVMe as boot

https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download

The 801 NVMe will do the trick . So after the flash go into CSM in the bios and enable boot from UEFI driver first and your good to go


----------



## Shadowarez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 8c has moar cache and personally I would rather upgrade to final version of Ivybee cpu than drop the mega cash for a x99 x299 DDR4 setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You would think it would eh . Unfortunately I don't own one yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have to flash a NVMe bios to run PCIe x4 NVMe
> 
> https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download
> 
> The 801 NVMe will do the trick . So after the flash go into CSM in the bios and enable boot from UEFI driver first and your good to go


Ty was going to ask this very question got a 960 pro 512 GB I wanted as boot. When I change my rig over to a server. Is there any penalty or latency issues if I use a PCIe adapter to boot from it?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Ty was going to ask this very question got a 960 pro 512 GB I wanted as boot. When I change my rig over to a server. Is there any penalty or latency issues if I use a PCIe adapter to boot from it?


Makes things sooo much o faster









As long as you flash the NVMe bios to suit and change those bios settings . Not aware of any penalties as of yet

Toshiba XG3 120gb


----------



## Shadowarez

Odd you get higher read but my Intel 910 800gn in hp mode hits 1.2gb writes but half read speed but dn that's nice reads. I'll see if I can find a duel m.2 PCIe card raid 0 with 960 pros would be sick.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Odd you get higher read but my Intel 910 800gn in hp mode hits 1.2gb writes but half read speed but dn that's nice reads. I'll see if I can find a duel m.2 PCIe card raid 0 with 960 pros would be sick.


My 'rough' understanding is one NVME / PCIe device per slot . But you can get PCIe adapter with dual cards with the m key NVMe and a B key SSD into sata 3 6gbs via plug . Just add sata cable


----------



## smrdel

I would be keen to boot from a NVMe M.2 with this motherboard.

As I understand once setup you can boot from say a Samsung 960 Pro ? Do you need a particular PCIe adpator or will anyone work ?

Will something like this be ok to use once you flash the BIOS ?

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/36819/silverstone-ecm21-m-2-to-pci-e-x4-adapter-card/


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> I would be keen to boot from a NVMe M.2 with this motherboard.
> 
> As I understand once setup you can boot from say a Samsung 960 Pro ? Do you need a particular PCIe adpator or will anyone work ?
> 
> Will something like this be ok to use once you flash the BIOS ?
> 
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products/36819/silverstone-ecm21-m-2-to-pci-e-x4-adapter-card/


What you have there will be fine . You can get dual M + B key PCIe adapters as well . The B key ssd connects of a Sata 3 plug on the card via Sata cable .


----------



## smrdel

@HOMECINEMA

you are talking about one of these then ?

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33235/silverstone-ecm20-expansion-card-m-2-to-pcie-sata-adapter.

So basically you flash the R4E bios from the link you listed before then you should be right to install PCIe card with your NVMe M.2 drive. I was considering the Samsung 960 PRO as my drive

With regards to the PCIe adapter card does it matter if its compatible with x4 x8 or x16 ? lanes i.e is x16 better the x4 ?

I have seen this Asus card

http://cplonline.com.au/asus-hyper-m-2-x4-mini-card.html

on a separate note......

I have a i7 4820k and was wondering if worth upgrading to a i7 4960x. Seen here on ebay which is reasonable price ?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Intel-Core-i7-4960x-SR1AS-3-6GHz-6Core-15MB-130W-12Thread-LGA2011-Processor-CPU-/192245629814?hash=item2cc2bb8376:g:8-oAAOSwpINZZeD7

I would like to maximize things with my current rig before a full on system upgrade. I have read it gives about 20 % boost in performance over 4820k.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> @HOMECINEMA
> 
> you are talking about one of these then ?
> 
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33235/silverstone-ecm20-expansion-card-m-2-to-pcie-sata-adapter.
> 
> So basically you flash the R4E bios from the link you listed before then you should be right to install PCIe card with your NVMe M.2 drive. I was considering the Samsung 960 PRO as my drive
> 
> on a separate note......
> 
> I have a i7 4820k and was wondering if worth upgrading to a i7 4960x. Seen here on ebay which is reasonable price ?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Intel-Core-i7-4960x-SR1AS-3-6GHz-6Core-15MB-130W-12Thread-LGA2011-Processor-CPU-/192245629814?hash=item2cc2bb8376:g:8-oAAOSwpINZZeD7
> 
> I would like to maximize things with my current rig before a full on system upgrade. I have read it gives about 20 % boost in performance over 4820k.


1. Yes that's it . Plonk a 500gb or a 1 TB with a 960 Sammy . That's one less mech hdd









2. Yes . Ive had mine since new . It does a nice [email protected] daily and I have hit 5 gigahurtles in it . Also the 16xx v2 Xeons are worth a look


----------



## smrdel

With regards to the PCIe adapter card does it matter if its compatible with x4 x8 or x16 ? lanes

i.e if you put the PCIe card in the x16 slot will it perform better then if you install it in the x4 or x8 ?

I have seen this Asus card

http://cplonline.com.au/asus-hyper-m-2-x4-mini-card.html


----------



## spinFX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yes, but also in the OS you have to delete any VM containers you may have created and DISABLE the Windows VM processes. When the VM process is loaded, the system thinks your whole OS is a virtual machine, and it doesn't apply Additional Core Voltage at the hardware level. I never figured out whether the root of the bug was Intel, Microsoft, or Asus (I reported it to all 3), but at this point none of them are updating this platform so I guess it doesn't really matter anymore.


Ah i see, interesting. I'm rebuilding at the moment, changing my loop around a bit, might throw 10 back on there for a bit when I'm done and see what's what.
Will rep when I get home







cant use the rep+ button at work for some reason, think my browser is a little screwy.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> With regards to the PCIe adapter card does it matter if its compatible with x4 x8 or x16 ? lanes
> 
> i.e if you put the PCIe card in the x16 slot will it perform better then if you install it in the x4 or x8 ?
> 
> I have seen this Asus card
> 
> http://cplonline.com.au/asus-hyper-m-2-x4-mini-card.html


$48 when you can get em for $10









PCI Express 3.0 x4 interface is compatible with PCI Express x8, and x16 slots . Should not make any difference . So your running the BE aren't you ?


----------



## smrdel

Sorry HOMECINEMA - not sure what you mean by BE - Black Edition M/B ? Yes I do own it if thats what you are asking !

Which bios do you flash the 0701 or the 0801 ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Sorry HOMECINEMA - not sure what you mean by BE - Black Edition M/B ? Yes I do own it if thats what you are asking !
> 
> Which bios do you flash the 0701 or the 0801 ?


Yeah BE bro









801 that's what I'm running now


----------



## smrdel

......now just have to purchase the M.2 drive and the PCIe card !

in which slot is it best to install the card ? I have 2 GTX 980's on it with a SATA controller wedged in between them so space is a bit limited !

I have opened up the case and had a look - the only place i can really slot the PCIe adaptor is in the last GPU PCIe 3.0 x8_4 slot

Will that work ?

Thinking of going with this one

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33235/silverstone-ecm20-expansion-card-m-2-to-pcie/sata-adapter/

and the following M.2 drive

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37199/samsung-960-pro-nvme-m-2-512gb-ssd


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

That's fine mate









I got my SM961 new for $180 sent


----------



## smrdel

...and putting the PCIe adaptor in the 4th GPU slot is a go as well ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> ...and putting the PCIe adaptor in the 4th GPU slot is a go as well ?


As long as your getting x4 it doesn't matter what lane


----------



## smrdel

Cheers HC - PC


----------



## scottiescotsman

hi just put my 3 x hydro copper titans with swiftech sli connectors and they leaked like a babies soaked nappy








how could I stop this and is there a beter solution.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottiescotsman*
> 
> hi just put my 3 x hydro copper titans with swiftech sli connectors and they leaked like a babies soaked nappy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how could I stop this and is there a beter solution.


Yes , AMD has no external sli , xfire connections


----------



## Mega Man

I have not been impressed with the sli connectors, from Swiftech.

That said, get new ones and separate the 2 sides and use dow corning 111 ( now called molykote )


----------



## scottiescotsman

is that like a sealant & can I not use it on my current ones as took me ages to acquire them.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottiescotsman*
> 
> is that like a sealant & can I not use it on my current ones as took me ages to acquire them.


Selleys clear silicon ??


----------



## Mega Man

no, not a sealant. it is silocone grease.

odds are your orings are already damaged , could you use it on them, sure. would i ? no


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Orrright back in the the black with 960 NVME


----------



## Shadowarez

Damn that's fast as hell can't wait for my TR 2950x build to get under way.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Its a big improvement from sata ssd


to Toshiba NVMe XG3 128gb / PCIe card as Win 10 now a BF1 drive


SM 961


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah that's crazy wonder if raid 0 will make a difference with these or if we'd even see a change.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Yeah that's crazy wonder if raid 0 will make a difference with these or if we'd even see a change.


I was gonna get a 2nd Toshiba and see if I could but ( I didn't want to find out the hard way you couldn't ) i don't think we can raid0 em on this chipset anyway ................... but with the speeds I get with the Sam 961 negates that .


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah think with 3gbs+ that should be good enough to make everything nice and fast. Heard rumors of a 970 Evo - Pro if so think I'll raid 0 on TR. But I need to try hold out for a Asus WS TR board that will be absolute insanity.


----------



## Wam7

Has anybody updated the firmware for the Asmedia USB 3.0 chipset? Which chipset is it exactly on the Black Edition, 1042 or 1042a. According to AIDA64 it is the ASM1*1*42 but I'm pretty sure this is incorrect.


----------



## -Laser-

Heyo @ all,
so i recently got my hands on a Rampage IV Black Edition and wanted to join the Club.
And i also got a question for you all, does anyone own a waterblock for this nice Board that he does not need anymore i would love to get this thing in contact with water.
Last thing pls judge softly i am a newcomer to the forum.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> Heyo @ all,
> so i recently got my hands on a Rampage IV Black Edition and wanted to join the Club.
> And i also got a question for you all, does anyone own a waterblock for this nice Board that he does not need anymore i would love to get this thing in contact with water.
> Last thing pls judge softly i am a newcomer to the forum.


No judgments here, the more the merrier! Welcome.  Rampage IV is still a great board and a great platform despite being a few years long in the tooth. We've all been helping each other in this thread for years now, and we've got some really great folks here with tons of experience ready to help.

And no, sorry, I don't have the waterblock for this board. I decided it was too flow restrictive for my taste and was instead careful to position my rad so the NB got plenty of airflow from the rad fans. Never had any problem with its temps fwiw.


----------



## FIDDY57

Had mine for two years now and currently putting in liquid custom cpu/gpu's loop in it. Welcome aboard. Sorry i never put a block on the mobo as well.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> Heyo @ all,
> so i recently got my hands on a Rampage IV Black Edition and wanted to join the Club.
> And i also got a question for you all, does anyone own a waterblock for this nice Board that he does not need anymore i would love to get this thing in contact with water.
> Last thing pls judge softly i am a newcomer to the forum.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome to the club! You've got yourself a powerful MB there. Make sure you treat her right and she will do you likewise!

I have a waterblock set (I think the EK one) but I have not installed it yet for a few reasons. The primary one is that I want to have another build standing by just in case and another reason is I am cooling my CPU with a H240-X right now and want a larger (360) rad system put in before I add my MB to the loop. A third reason is that I want to have QDC's for the MB waterblocks to make it easier for maintenance, and they are expensive. Which brings me to the big one, money. Funds are low right now but I hope to have the money this winter for either a new build or a serious upgrade to this one (NVME, 4960x, etc).


----------



## -Laser-

Thx for your answers so far. I did not do much with this board, but it is very nice. Its just a shame that half of my memory slots wont work :/


----------



## Shadowarez

That's not good mine has been flawless since day she went into service. *Fingers crossed* hope she continues to work after the transfer to HTPC case. You could still load up 16-32 GB of RAM still have a killer system.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> Thx for your answers so far. I did not do much with this board, but it is very nice. Its just a shame that half of my memory slots wont work :/


Which bios does your motherboard have?


----------



## -Laser-

I dunno i will look it up tomorrow but the strange thing is the ram gets detected in the bios but not in windows.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> I dunno i will look it up tomorrow but the strange thing is the ram gets detected in the bios but not in windows.


What you should try is to put the RAM in using two sticks at a time. It is important to follow the exact order as detailed in the manual (I've attached a picture of the page). Each time boot into Windows to see how much is being seen. i.e Start with 2 sticks. boot into windows, then 4 sticks, boot into windows etc.


----------



## -Laser-

I testet every possible positioning fo the sticks the thing is that i have a burned pin at the oc panel and 2 burned traces in the connection cabel of the panel. They are all grounds so yeah something possibly ripped :/


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> I testet every possible positioning fo the sticks the thing is that i have a burned pin at the oc panel and 2 burned traces in the connection cabel of the panel. They are all grounds so yeah something possibly ripped :/


I have that problem of RAM showing up in the bios but not in Windows on more than one Asus motherboard and doing it the way I mentioned was the only way I managed to fix it. I even tried them in different slots and it didn't work; only by following the order in the manual did I get it to work. It's worth giving it a try as the OC panel should not affect RAM.


----------



## -Laser-

Okay will try it tomorrow ^^ thx


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> I tested every possible positioning fo the sticks the thing is that i have a burned pin at the oc panel and 2 burned traces in the connection cabel of the panel. They are all grounds so yeah something possibly ripped :/


Post some pics of this please . Were are not #mindreaders

After you've posted some pics , perhaps a bios flash is required


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> Okay will try it tomorrow ^^ thx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Post some pics of this please . Were are not #mindreaders
> 
> After you've posted some pics , perhaps a bios flash is required


^^ What he said. You should be on Bios 0701 or 0801. They're essentially the same except the 0801 supports double the amount of (ECC) memory for this board (up to 128gb) but I know of no one that has need for that much memory.

Just to note, I also had the same issue with half my RAM not showing up no matter what configuration I used, I discovered it was from bent pins under the CPU. I've had this issue twice now thanks to my great finger dexterity....lol. But I got them bent back into place and all is good now, great in fact because I was finally able to hit 4.4ghz on my 4930k which I am running at a nice cool mid 30's temp range.

BTW the board can run fine without the OC panel and there is only one or two people that have mentioned using it anyway. Most do their OCing in the BIOS. Though I understand the reason for the OC panel is so that you can OC your chip on the fly and I believe you can program it with the parameters you set. But I've heard it does not handle it well.


----------



## -Laser-

Heyo so the work of my weeks finished so i tried around with the board. At first ( to stop the mind reading







) here are is the burned stuff i mentioned.



And the Bios version is 0701 so should not be the problem either.
The funny part is when i install ram in the slots A-D1 everything gets detected, if i install another 16 GB it only detects the ones in B and D slots.


----------



## Wam7

Exactly how much RAM do you have, in how many sticks?


----------



## Kimir

Is that all at stock, JEDEC ram speed or after manual/XMP setting the ram freq. and voltage? Could just require a little boost in VCCSA.


----------



## -Laser-

I got 8 x 4 GB though there 2 x 8 GB Kits and one 16 GB kit
And yes i know ram mixing is bad ^^`


----------



## -Laser-

Im playin around with the ram settings right now.
It was all stock.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> Heyo so the work of my weeks finished so i tried around with the board. At first ( to stop the mind reading
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) here are is the burned stuff i mentioned.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the Bios version is 0701 so should not be the problem either.
> The funny part is when i install ram in the slots A-D1 everything gets detected, if i install another 16 GB it only detects the ones in B and D slots.


Those burn marks look like someone was trying some sort of modding. I doubt those will affect your board unless the result of such modding messed it up. You can replace the wire on the connector easily enough with some splicing but I am not sure about the board connection.

Have you run the memtest yet? If not I would.


----------



## -Laser-

Im not planning on replacing the stuff, it works i seem that it is only burned not shortened or something.
And yeah i did let it run to 100% on every instance and it didnt get one error ( Ram has been tested on various boards).
Btw now that i played arount with the placing of the sticks first it did only detect on A and B now i removed one from the C2 and now i get C1 detectet.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> Im not planning on replacing the stuff, it works i seem that it is only burned not shortened or something.
> And yeah i did let it run to 100% on every instance and it didnt get one error ( Ram has been tested on various boards).
> Btw now that i played arount with the placing of the sticks first it did only detect on A and B now i removed one from the C2 and now i get C1 detectet.


Like I mentioned before, I had a similar problem with my board a while back. You might have some bent pins under your CPU.


----------



## -Laser-

So i looked at the pins there correct they were bend when i got the board and it seems that C2 and D2 are completely wasted whenever i instert ram only in these slots the board wont boot anymore.


----------



## smrdel

Is it worth upgrading from the I7 4820k to the I7 4960X ? or should I save my pennies an put towards next PC ?

I find this available 4960K on Ebay

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Intel-Core-i7-4960x-SR1AS-3-6GHz-6Core-15MB-130W-12Thread-LGA2011-Processor-CPU/192245629814?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

or this one

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Intel-Core-i7-4960X-Extreme-Edition-3-6GHz-6C-LGA2011-SR1AS-up-to-4-00-GHz/232409159576?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

It seems I need to pay around $400 for a used one.

Just after peoples thoughts - probably look at doing a total upgrade in about 12 months time.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> *Is it worth upgrading from the I7 4820k to the I7 4960X ? or should I save my pennies an put towards next PC ?*
> 
> I find this available 4960K on Ebay
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Intel-Core-i7-4960x-SR1AS-3-6GHz-6Core-15MB-130W-12Thread-LGA2011-Processor-CPU/192245629814?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
> 
> or this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Intel-Core-i7-4960X-Extreme-Edition-3-6GHz-6C-LGA2011-SR1AS-up-to-4-00-GHz/232409159576?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
> 
> It seems I need to pay around $400 for a used one.
> 
> Just after peoples thoughts - probably look at doing a total upgrade in about 12 months time.


Yes extra 2c 4t makes a very big difference and Yes save pennies for DDR4


----------



## smrdel

What would be the better next upgrade

1 - upgrade the CPU from 4820k to 4960X ?

2 - or upgrade boot drive from 256GB 850 Pro SSD to PCIe M.2 adaptor with Samsung M.2 512GB Pro SSD ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> What would be the better next upgrade
> 
> 1 - upgrade the CPU from 4820k to 4960X ?
> 
> 2 - or upgrade boot drive from 256GB 850 Pro SSD to PCIe M.2 adaptor with Samsung M.2 512GB Pro SSD ?


Option 2 first cause less outlay if using 256gb option . For me that is enough space for o/s drive


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Option 2 first cause less outlay if using 256gb option . For me that is enough space for o/s drive


What is "less outlay"?
I am thinking of upgrading to an NVME drive later this year but am looking at a 1tb drive. Reason is I currently have a 256gb SSD for my boot drive and I can't have either my downloads or my music folder in that drive and I would really like to have them at their default locations. But my music folder is 114gb alone and growing. My C drive is currently at 85gb free out of the 256gb and my downloads folder gets pretty high every so often when I download things and fail to immediately move them to another drive.
FYI, I run about 99% of the programs on my PC off of my C drive, that is except for my games. All those barely fit on a 4tb drive...lol.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> So i looked at the pins there correct they were bend when i got the board and it seems that C2 and D2 are completely wasted whenever i instert ram only in these slots the board wont boot anymore.


When I was having issues with my RAM some on here offered some great advice on what it could be and I can't remember most of it...lol.
If I eventually recall it I will let you know, if you are still having an issue. Unless someone else on here helps with that part.

But for now, have you cleaned out the slots with some 90% + grade (cleaning) alcohol?
I'd also check the board closely (maybe with a magnifying glass) around the RAM slots to see if there is any visible damage.

You mentioned messing with the RAM settings in the BIOS, are you able to adjust your timings or set it for XMP?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What is "less outlay"?
> I am thinking of upgrading to an NVME drive later this year but am looking at a 1tb drive. Reason is I currently have a 256gb SSD for my boot drive and I can't have either my downloads or my music folder in that drive and I would really like to have them at their default locations. But my music folder is 114gb alone and growing. My C drive is currently at 85gb free out of the 256gb and my downloads folder gets pretty high every so often when I download things and fail to immediately move them to another drive.
> FYI, I run about 99% of the programs on my PC off of my C drive, that is except for my games. All those barely fit on a 4tb drive...lol.


Less money bro


----------



## -Laser-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> When I was having issues with my RAM some on here offered some great advice on what it could be and I can't remember most of it...lol.
> If I eventually recall it I will let you know, if you are still having an issue. Unless someone else on here helps with that part.
> 
> But for now, have you cleaned out the slots with some 90% + grade (cleaning) alcohol?
> I'd also check the board closely (maybe with a magnifying glass) around the RAM slots to see if there is any visible damage.
> 
> You mentioned messing with the RAM settings in the BIOS, are you able to adjust your timings or set it for XMP?


I tried around more with the Ram, cleaning and stuff.
I can set whatever setting i want a long as the ram has no problem with them it runs. Doesent matter if i have stuff installed on the D 2 or C2 but the Slots simply dont work anymore.
And if installed anything in them they block off D or C completely.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Missing ram can be bent pins or debris in the socket. Clean the cpu pads with isopropyl alcohol. Also make sure to mount the cpu's heatsink/waterblock evenly and not too tight.


----------



## xarot

I once saw detection issues on c channel but it was the b channel that needed reseating.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> I tried around more with the Ram, cleaning and stuff.
> I can set whatever setting i want a long as the ram has no problem with them it runs. Doesent matter if i have stuff installed on the D 2 or C2 but the Slots simply dont work anymore.
> And if installed anything in them they block off D or C completely.


So, Correct me if I am wrong but is it when you put any RAM in the C2 or D2 slots it blocks off the C and D sets completely?
Does all the RAM get detected and run when you put them all in the "1" slots (A1, B1, C1, & D1)?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Less money bro


oh, didn't know "outlay" meant "money".....


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So, Correct me if I am wrong but is it when you put any RAM in the C2 or D2 slots it blocks off the C and D sets completely?
> Does all the RAM get detected and run when you put them all in the "1" slots (A1, B1, C1, & D1)?
> *oh, didn't know "outlay" meant "money"* .....


That's my age showin a tad


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> What would be the better next upgrade
> 
> 1 - upgrade the CPU from 4820k to 4960X ?
> 
> 2 - or upgrade boot drive from 256GB 850 Pro SSD to PCIe M.2 adaptor with Samsung M.2 512GB Pro SSD ?


It depends on what you do with your PC. If you are regularly doing things that max out all 4 cores like video encoding etc then the 4960X would be better, if not then get as big as a M.2 drive you can afford.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> It depends on what you do with your PC. If you are regularly doing things that max out all 4 cores like video encoding etc then the 4960X would be better, if not then get as big as a M.2 drive you can afford.


Do you run your 1650 v2 @ 5 gigs 24/7 ??


----------



## Rangerscott

After 2 years and 7 days of ordering, Im finally getting to opening my brand new Black Edition mobo and setting up an X79 system. LoL.

Time to retire the old X58 system and see what gains I get.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> After 2 years and 7 days of ordering, Im finally getting to opening my *brand new Black Edition mobo* and setting up an X79 system. LoL.
> 
> Time to retire the old X58 system and see what gains I get.


Where from may I ask ??


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> After 2 years and 7 days of ordering, Im finally getting to opening my brand new Black Edition mobo and setting up an X79 system. LoL.
> 
> Time to retire the old X58 system and see what gains I get.


I too would love to know why it took 2 years to get your mobo? And from who?


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> It depends on what you do with your PC. If you are regularly doing things that max out all 4 cores like video encoding etc then the 4960X would be better, if not then get as big as a M.2 drive you can afford.


I personally would just upgrade to a bigger ssd maybe 2tb or more if you can afford it. The difference in speed isn't worth the price difference.


----------



## -Laser-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So, Correct me if I am wrong but is it when you put any RAM in the C2 or D2 slots it blocks off the C and D sets completely?
> Does all the RAM get detected and run when you put them all in the "1" slots (A1, B1, C1, & D1)?
> oh, didn't know "outlay" meant "money".....


Yes you got that right with the working slots.
And for the other friendly people, i tried cleaning with alcohol, air and that was done on every slor but nothing changed so i have to live with what i got.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Do you run your 1650 v2 @ 5 gigs 24/7 ??


I wish it was a V2 @ 5Ghz!







Alas, it is the V1 and this is the 4th one I tried before I could get it to run 5Ghz stable. All the others did at least 4.7Ghz but because they are relatively cheap now (last one was ~£70 / $90 ) then it was possible to try a few. I'm using the offset mode which goes up to ~1.47v under load. Normally I'd keep it under 1.45v and ideally around 1.40v but if it does degrade too much over time then I would look out for the 1680 v2. There is a guy selling one by me but he's still asking way too much.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I personally would just upgrade to a bigger ssd maybe 2tb or more if you can afford it. The difference in speed isn't worth the price difference.


He would be going from a 4 core to a 6 core. When I did the same thing I got a ~40 % improvement in encoding times. Instead of my encoding taking 2hrs it would complete in 1hr 10mins. That is a considerable improvement if he is doing those kind of things. Though like I said if he is not then get the M.2.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> I wish it was a V2 @ 5Ghz!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alas, it is the V1 and this is the 4th one I tried before I could get it to run 5Ghz stable. All the others did at least 4.7Ghz but because they are relatively cheap now (last one was ~£70 / $90 ) then it was possible to try a few. I'm using the offset mode which goes up to ~1.47v under load. Normally I'd keep it under 1.45v and ideally around 1.40v but if it does degrade too much over time then I would look out for the 1680 v2. There is a guy selling one by me but he's still asking way too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He would be going from a 4 core to a 6 core. When I did the same thing I got a ~40 % improvement in encoding times. Instead of my encoding taking 2hrs it would complete in 1hr 10mins. That is a considerable improvement if he is doing those kind of things. Though like I said if he is not then get the M.2.


That makes sense cause its sandybridge e


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Where from may I ask ??


My closet. LoL. Bought it and a zotac 980 ti artic storm back in july 2015.

Got that with 4 stick of new dominator ram, a used 4930k and will probably get two new hard drives.

I got a lot of reading to do in this thread.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> Yes you got that right with the working slots.
> And for the other friendly people, i tried cleaning with alcohol, air and that was done on every slor but nothing changed so i have to live with what i got.


Then put all four sticks in the "1" slots and you should be good...


----------



## smrdel

For some reason it took me a while for me to install my BE edition motherboard as well - not 2 years but closer to 1 year or so. I think there were 2 chipset updates in between buying it and then installing it. I just thought it was a bad ass looking board at the time and just needed to have it !

I mainly game with my PC and do some basic video editing i.e I capture video with a capture card on another PC and edit/remove ads with Videoredo on the BE based PC

I have seen with CPU comparison sites that between the 4820k which I have and the 4680x is about 20% hence me looking at upgrading and trying to get more life out of this PC before doing a full upgrade.As I have mentioned before I have seen second hand 4960x's going for just over $400.

I was looking at the Samsung 960 Pro M.2 SSD as I think the 256GB is only a EVO and hence bit slower - hence looking at the 512GB Pro version

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37199/samsung-960-pro-nvme-m-2-512gb-ssd

This is about $420 and the PCIe adaptor card is about $25 from here

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33235/silverstone-ecm20-expansion-card-m-2-to-pcie-sata-adapter or this one

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/36819/silverstone-ecm21-m-2-to-pci-e-x4-adapter-card

so difference between upgrades is $20-$30 depending on prices


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> For some reason it took me a while for me to install my BE edition motherboard as well - not 2 years but closer to 1 year or so. I think there were 2 chipset updates in between buying it and then installing it. I just thought it was a bad ass looking board at the time and just needed to have it !
> 
> I mainly game with my PC and do some basic video editing i.e I capture video with a capture card on another PC and edit/remove ads with Videoredo on the BE based PC
> 
> I have seen with CPU comparison sites that between the 4820k which I have and the 4680x is about 20% hence me looking at upgrading and trying to get more life out of this PC before doing a full upgrade.As I have mentioned before I have seen second hand 4960x's going for just over $400.
> 
> I was looking at the Samsung 960 Pro M.2 SSD as I think the 256GB is only a EVO and hence bit slower - hence looking at the 512GB Pro version
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37199/samsung-960-pro-nvme-m-2-512gb-ssd
> 
> This is about $420 and the PCIe adaptor card is about $25 from here
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33235/silverstone-ecm20-expansion-card-m-2-to-pcie-sata-adapter or this one
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products/36819/silverstone-ecm21-m-2-to-pci-e-x4-adapter-card
> so difference between upgrades is $20-$30 depending on prices


You could save more by going with a 4930k, it is comparable in performance to the 4960x. I have seen some of them go for just over $200 on ebay.


----------



## Laithan

E5-1650v2 for $140 right now also as an option..


----------



## Ballantin

I suppose this has been asked before, but the context is different now that this MOBO is hard to find and things moved forward to the 2011-v3 socket and DDR4.

My system is currently a R4E, with 32Gb of Gskill and a 3930k water cooled.

I also got a 4930k sitting in a drawer waiting to be installed.

I was thinking about getting a R4BE to replace my R4E but, does it worth it now? The cheapest one I found is about £350.

Maybe it's a better idea to just get a 5930k, some DDR ram and a R5 Edition 10?

Thanks in advance guys


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ballantin*
> 
> I suppose this has been asked before, but the context is different now that this MOBO is hard to find and things moved forward to the 2011-v3 socket and DDR4.
> 
> My system is currently a R4E, with 32Gb of Gskill and a 3930k water cooled.
> 
> I also got a 4930k sitting in a drawer waiting to be installed.
> 
> I was thinking about getting a R4BE to replace my R4E but, does it worth it now? The cheapest one I found is about £350.
> 
> Maybe it's a better idea to just get a 5930k, some DDR ram and a R5 Edition 10?
> 
> Thanks in advance guys


Not worth that much if you already have an RVE. I had a X79 Sabertooth but really wanted the extra 2 SATA connectors that the BE has which is why I hunted one down but I paid very little on top after selling my X79 Sabertooth.


----------



## -Laser-

Heyo guys, so what do you think about painting the coolers on the R4BE white to do a white build ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Laser-*
> 
> Heyo guys, so what do you think about painting the coolers on the R4BE white to do a white build ?


----------



## -Laser-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*


Gotcha


----------



## Shadowarez

Lol perfect exspression for that. I'm bout to do a iso dip for my board it's time to move her to a huge Silverstone HTPC case as I prepare for TR plus I wanna mod the Cosmos 2 so I can fit a proper custom loop.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Is there any particular reason why I might not be able to boot from a bootable USB (created with HP bootable USB software + Windows 95 install)? The flash drive is not showing up at all in the boot list menu.

(Windows 10 installed on the main drive, if it makes any difference).

EDIT: nevermind, sorted it out. It works if I plug the flash drive directly into the motherboard, but not into one of the USB ports at the front of the computer case (although those ports are fully operational, as my mouse is temporarily plugged into one of them).


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Is there any particular reason why I might not be able to boot from a bootable USB (created with HP bootable USB software + Windows 95 install)? The flash drive is not showing up at all in the boot list menu.
> 
> (Windows 10 installed on the main drive, if it makes any difference).
> 
> EDIT: nevermind, sorted it out. It works if I plug the flash drive directly into the motherboard, but not into one of the USB ports at the front of the computer case (although those ports are fully operational, as my mouse is temporarily plugged into one of them).


Yes, it has to do with Secure Boot settings in the UEFI bios. The USB ports at the front of the case are driven by 3rd party ASMedia drivers that may not initialize at bootup unless you set them to be enabled (the USB ports on the board itself are Intel driven, so they boot up either way)


----------



## LunaP

Dang, went to upgrade to dual 1080ti's and system no longer boots, something must've rubbed wrong when inserting the card since now PCIE slot 1 isn't allowing the system to post unless I disable it, and keep getting the QCODE 34 which means either gpu or mem and memorys reporting random #'s, given the issues initially with setting this up when I first got it, it might be time to replace/upgrade... sadly boards are like 800-1200$ now idky lol.

Searching CL and other sites for a spare board, worst case new system upgrade (1950x AMD or something close...) at least regardless of what I get I'll finally get to expierience actual x16 vs being stuck at 8x like I was since day 1 lol.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Dang, went to upgrade to dual 1080ti's and system no longer boots, something must've rubbed wrong when inserting the card since now PCIE slot 1 isn't allowing the system to post unless I disable it, and keep getting the QCODE 34 which means either gpu or mem and memorys reporting random #'s, given the issues initially with setting this up when I first got it, it might be time to replace/upgrade... sadly boards are like 800-1200$ now idky lol.
> 
> Searching CL and other sites for a spare board, worst case new system upgrade (1950x AMD or something close...) at least regardless of what I get I'll finally get to expierience actual x16 vs being stuck at 8x like I was since day 1 lol.


I have no idea why it would do that from day one for you mate .

I find that silly random Q code numbers in my case was caused by mega amount of dust in the ram slots and x8 was from bent cpu pins

Try another card

Preaching to the choir


----------



## Fliwatuet

Is there any way to get Ramcache II to work?


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Dang, went to upgrade to dual 1080ti's and system no longer boots, something must've rubbed wrong when inserting the card since now PCIE slot 1 isn't allowing the system to post unless I disable it, and keep getting the QCODE 34 which means either gpu or mem and memorys reporting random #'s, given the issues initially with setting this up when I first got it, it might be time to replace/upgrade... sadly boards are like 800-1200$ now idky lol.
> 
> Searching CL and other sites for a spare board, worst case new system upgrade (1950x AMD or something close...) at least regardless of what I get I'll finally get to expierience actual x16 vs being stuck at 8x like I was since day 1 lol.


I'll sell you a brand new one for $800. LoL


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Dang, went to upgrade to dual 1080ti's and system no longer boots, something must've rubbed wrong when inserting the card since now PCIE slot 1 isn't allowing the system to post unless I disable it, and keep getting the QCODE 34 which means either gpu or mem and memorys reporting random #'s, given the issues initially with setting this up when I first got it, it might be time to replace/upgrade... sadly boards are like 800-1200$ now idky lol.
> 
> Searching CL and other sites for a spare board, worst case new system upgrade (1950x AMD or something close...) at least regardless of what I get I'll finally get to expierience actual x16 vs being stuck at 8x like I was since day 1 lol.


I have the abe4 mobo and upgraded to evga 1080ti ftw3's in sli and booted fine.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fliwatuet*
> 
> Is there any way to get Ramcache II to work?


I'm interested in this also...

Can you share what you've tried so far? Assume you tried.. What's the message you are getting? Is it telling you the motherboard is not compatible?


----------



## Shadowarez

If you have win 7 the rive be ramdisk works fine.


----------



## LunaP

Leaving it on overnight w/ the fan fixed it up, 1 gpu was definitely bad though sadly, but already knew that prior, seems a drop of water got into the pcie slot but its fine now, waiting on the 1080ti replacement now so running 980ti->1080ti->980ti for now lol, wanted to just have 2x 1080ti's in sli and 1 additional 980 for monitors to break free of the limitations of sli for multi monitor.

Probably still gonna upgrade though, looking at the asus zenith extreme w/ TR 1950x ( can't believe its finally come to looking at amd lol....)

I'll probably fix this one up and sell it idk, its been a solid board though, w/ OC's and all. still holding strong on 4.5ghz on 4960x + 64gb ram @ 2133 @ tight timings.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> If you have win 7 the rive be ramdisk works fine.


Its pointless if you have 16 gb of dram or less

That's why NVMe is the go ( for me )


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah I stuffed 64 GB of RAM in mind never oced or tinkered with ram after setting xmp. I'm soon transfering the Beast to a nice huge Silverstone HTPC case. I'll need to find a nice air cooler that isn't 5 kgs for it maybe a cryorg will work as I'll down lock it from 4.8ghz back to stock undervolt it a bit and it can live out it's days serving my media and hosting my servers. I'll need a good nvme drive. Oh home have you ever used a LSI raid card with the battery back up module and cachecade? I'm planning on a nice storage pool with my sata ssd used as a cache for my media storage will have like 8 10TB HDDs.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Yeah I stuffed 64 GB of RAM in mind never oced or tinkered with ram after setting xmp. I'm soon transfering the Beast to a nice huge Silverstone HTPC case. I'll need to find a nice air cooler that isn't 5 kgs for it maybe a cryorg will work as I'll down lock it from 4.8ghz back to stock undervolt it a bit and it can live out it's days serving my media and hosting my servers. I'll need a good nvme drive. Oh home have you ever used a LSI raid card with the battery back up module and cachecade? I'm planning on a nice storage pool with my sata ssd used as a cache for my media storage will have like 8 10TB HDDs.


Nah mate never bothered with raid cards . I don't use big TB arrays anymoar after I lost a 10 tb array years ago .

I only will raid a couple of SSD's for gaming . Only the 2 intel sata 3 ports this board has . If I raid 3 ssd's , 2 sata 3 and 1 sata 2 port is slower than 2 ssd's in raid 0


----------



## Shadowarez

ahh ok i have a bunch of 10 TB hdds waiting lol i seen a deal on the 9260 lsi raid card and the cachecade dongle, wanted to see if i could use my other ssds 2 512 850 pros i got sittin in drawer as a nice huge cache drive for it.


----------



## Mega Man

raid sucks.

Zfs onry. And as always, data does not exist unless you have at least 3 backups. And at least 1 of those off site


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah iv lost a raid array of 12 TB before. I was thinking since it's hardware raid with data SSDs as a cache it'd be safer and faster since the card will have either 512 mb or 1 GB of ddr3 onboard ram.


----------



## Rangerscott

Ive been lucky with two 1gb Samsung Spinpoint F3 (HD103SJ) in raid 0 for 5 yrs or more amd still using them. I plan on replacing them with two firecudas.


----------



## Shadowarez

I got a few pairs the He 8tb in current HTPC but I'd hoped the LSI would have better reliability for drives in long run.


----------



## smrdel

What is the go with updating the bios to 0801 i.e R4BE.CAP file ?

Put it on a USB stick and load from BIOS ?

I wish to enable the M.2 SSD Boot capability ?

Was also thinking of grabbing a i7 4930k over the 4960X to upgrade my 4920k - seems to be half the price and similar performance ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> What is the go with updating the bios to 0801 i.e R4BE.CAP file ?
> 
> Put it on a USB stick and load from BIOS ?
> 
> I wish to enable the M.2 SSD Boot capability ?


Win 10 should read it but you need to enable it in the bios to be able to boot but first you need to flash it ofc .

Didn't I go through this with you before ? Or was that someone else ?

First go here ...

You will have to flash a NVMe bios to run PCIe x4 NVMe as boot

https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download

And select the one for RIVBE 801 NVMe will do the trick . So after the flash go into CSM in the bios and enable boot from UEFI driver first and your good to go .

Use the usb flash method by turning your rig off and putting the fat 32 usb stick in the top usb port and hold the button till it flashes and leave it do its thing . Then restart









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Was also thinking of grabbing a i7 4930k over the 4960X to upgrade my 4920k - seems to be half the price and similar performance ?


Seems to be ?? Silicon lottery my man


----------



## smrdel

I think it was someone else - Thanks for the run down

My M.2 drive and adapator have just been ordered


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> I think it was someone else - Thanks for the run down
> 
> My M.2 drive and adapator have just been ordered


That's right it was about the above


----------



## smrdel

I went with this SSD and adaptor combo

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37199/samsung-960-pro-nvme-m-2-512gb-ssd

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33235/silverstone-ecm20-expansion-card-m-2-to-pcie/sata-adapter/

I was wondering if i have to reinstall windows on the new drive or can i just copy/clone what i have at the moment on the new M.2 drive ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> I went with this SSD and adaptor combo
> 
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37199/samsung-960-pro-nvme-m-2-512gb-ssd
> 
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33235/silverstone-ecm20-expansion-card-m-2-to-pcie/sata-adapter/
> 
> I was wondering if i have to reinstall windows on the new drive or can i just copy/clone what i have at the moment on the new M.2 drive ?


If you can clone it why not . But a freshy in my opinion is the way to go eh .


----------



## smrdel

.... I was thinking of all the games i would need toi reinstall with a freshie thats all


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> .... I was thinking of all the games i would need toi reinstall with a freshie thats all


Origin yes steam no


----------



## Shadowarez

Do available k up of steam and the origin folder if can.


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Do available k up of steam and the origin folder if can.


what does this mean ?


----------



## bee144

Does anyone have an overclocking guide that explains all of the settings in the BIOS and how to maximize the settings for a stable/efficient overclock? Can you please share any links?

I've found a guide or two but they seem light on content. Was wondering if anyone here knew of a better guide.

(ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition and 4960X)

Thanks!


----------



## Laithan

for your memory

CPU

^ very similar to RIVBE (RIVBE is based on this board)


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> what does this mean ?


Back up steam just before ya do a freshy

Origin ya cant if you do a freshy ( the way I do things is well .... dated )


----------



## LunaP

Can't find a single case of 64gb 3200 RGB kits (Cast 14-16) from G skill anywhere, neweggs been out of stock forever and amazon is missing it.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Can't find a single case of 64gb 3200 RGB kits (Cast 14-16) from G skill anywhere, neweggs been out of stock forever and amazon is missing it.


Yeah its getting like that I cant find a Set of 2666 c11 Dom plats


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah my proof reading before posting is horrendous. Lol you can back up origin just not the same way you do steam.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Yeah my proof reading before posting is horrendous. Lol you can back up origin just not the same way you do steam.


I need to know this

Steam copy n paste

Origin ....... n .......... ?









A tad useless n lazy

PM me PLZ Shadow wearer


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I need to know this
> 
> Steam copy n paste
> 
> Origin ....... n .......... ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A tad useless n lazy
> 
> PM me PLZ Shadow wearer


Origin is also copy & paste, then you tell Origin to install the game, it will detect that the files already exist and "verify" them. Installation isn't instant, but it only takes a few minutes to verify that all the files are there.

https://help.ea.com/en-us/help/origin/origin/backing-up-and-restoring-your-origin-games/


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Origin is also copy & paste, then you tell Origin to install the game, it will detect that the files already exist and "verify" them. Installation isn't instant, but it only takes a few minutes to verify that all the files are there.


It hasn't always been like this. It used to be if the drive was moved or the OS reinstalled it would re-install the games even if the files were already there.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It hasn't always been like this. It used to be if the drive was moved or the OS reinstalled it would re-install the games even if the files were already there.


It has been awhile since I've done it, but IIRC the trick is to tell it to start downloading to an empty folder, then pause it, then paste all of the files into that location. It tricks the Origin client into thinking it's done downloading, then it just verifies the files and completes the install.

Or even better, just don't buy Origin games.









Maybe somebody who has done it more recently could confirm, though. My memory sometimes plays tricks on me in my old age. lol


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Yeah its getting like that I cant find a Set of 2666 c11 Dom plats


New Egg just restocked a ton of diff RAM and the G skill set I wanted was part of it, you might wanna check to see if yours is available. There were only 2 available for mine!


----------



## smrdel

Thanks for the heads up re: Steam and Origin games - I have them all installed on a separate drive to my SSD boot drive.

How does steam back up games ?

I have a few games with Uplay - whats the go with them ?

Also thinking of replacing/selling my 2 x GTX 980's with one GTX 1080TI to get some room in my system - any thoughts ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up re: Steam and Origin games - I have them all installed on a separate drive to my SSD boot drive.
> 
> How does steam back up games ?
> 
> I have a few games with Uplay - whats the go with them ?
> 
> Also thinking of replacing/selling my 2 x GTX 980's with one GTX 1080TI to get some room in my system - any thoughts ?


Do the 980's have 3 Display ports and are they watercooled ??


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Do the 980's have 3 Display ports and are they watercooled ??


I think they do have 3 display ports and are not watercooled.

These are the cards

https://www.asus.com/au/Graphics-Cards/MATRIXGTX980P4GD5/


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Also thinking of replacing/selling my 2 x GTX 980's with one GTX 1080TI to get some room in my system - any thoughts ?


Personally, I'd sit tight. The 1080ti will be a small upgrade over 2x980, but at a high cost. Also, Volta is on its way soon(ish) and is rumored to be a lot more powerful than Pascal.

I'm chomping at the bit to replace my ancient 2x770 setup, but i'm practicing controlled breathing & zen meditation techniques to keep myself in check until Volta drops. lol

*edit: I take that back... looks like the latest word is that Volta won't launch until 2018. Still, I'm not sure i would personally endorse upgrading 2x980 to 1080ti unless you're having serious problems with SLI. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Also thinking of replacing/selling my 2 x GTX 980's with one GTX 1080TI to get some room in my system - any thoughts ?
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I'd sit tight. The 1080ti will be a small upgrade over 2x980, but at a high cost. Also, Volta is on its way soon(ish) and is rumored to be a lot more powerful than Pascal.
> 
> I'm chomping at the bit to replace my ancient 2x770 setup, but i'm practicing controlled breathing & zen meditation techniques to keep myself in check until Volta drops. lol
> 
> *edit: I take that back... looks like the latest word is that Volta won't launch until 2018. Still, I'm not sure i would personally endorse upgrading 2x980 to 1080ti unless you're having serious problems with SLI. Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

I did it lol, went from 3x 980ti's to 2x 1080ti's + left 1 980ti in the loop for additional monitors. My reasoning was because of my monitor upgrading setup, finally moving away from my old qnix II 27" to 32" monitors, and 1 of which is a 4k acer 60hz gsync and 32" asus pb328Q, not to mention my drawing tablte is 4k so having 2x 4k monitors I figured meh I need the power since I couldn't sli the 980ti's anymore to begin w/ due to to many monitors.

So do you need it? depends on what ur running, 2x 980ti's should be able to do 4k fine though if thats ur aim.

However if you're looking for a Ti variant, just remember that stock volta will be announced March of next year, meaning the 2080ti variants won't show up till end of the year, so u still have a full year + a month or 2 before you get your 2080ti ( IF schedule doesn't push further due to GDDR6 issues )

Just a thought.


----------



## smrdel

Thanx all re GPU upgrade

The main reason I am considering doing it is because i need another network connection in my setup and have no more room to install a PCIe network adaptor on the board. I have tried the USB network adaptor but i cant get it to work. The one M/B network connection i do have is used for my modem router connection. I am using the spare PCIe slot in between the GPU's for a 4 port SATA controller and i am going to use the last visible PCIe slot i.e the 4th GPU slot on the board for a M.2 sata PCIe adaptor. I dont really want to use wifi to hook up another PC to network them so not sure if have any other options apart from reconfiguring how many drives i have in my case and to remove the sata controller !









I have a massive Cosmos 2 case which has room for heaps of drives ( main reason why i bought in first place ) but M/B's dont have enough SATA ports on them to install them all !

So was considering ditching/selling the 2 x 980's for the 1080to or rolling back to a 970ti which i have sitting on my shelf unused. Its my limited understanding the 1080ti is better in some areas and worse in others over the 2x 980's ? Its not a major leap over the 2 x 980's ?

I have just received my M.2 adaptor and new M.2 SSD so will attempt to update BIOS and install new drive............


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Thanx all re GPU upgrade
> 
> The main reason I am considering doing it is because i need another network connection in my setup and have no more room to install a PCIe network adaptor on the board. I have tried the USB network adaptor but i cant get it to work. The one M/B network connection i do have is used for my modem router connection. I am using the spare PCIe slot in between the GPU's for a 4 port SATA controller and i am going to use the last visible PCIe slot i.e the 4th GPU slot on the board for a M.2 sata PCIe adaptor. I dont really want to use wifi to hook up another PC to network them so not sure if have any other options apart from reconfiguring how many drives i have in my case and to remove the sata controller !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a massive Cosmos 2 case which has room for heaps of drives ( main reason why i bought in first place ) but M/B's dont have enough SATA ports on them to install them all !
> 
> So was considering ditching/selling the 2 x 980's for the 1080to or rolling back to a 970ti which i have sitting on my shelf unused. Its my limited understanding the 1080ti is better in some areas and worse in others over the 2x 980's ? Its not a major leap over the 2 x 980's ?
> 
> I have just received my M.2 adaptor and new M.2 SSD so will attempt to update BIOS and install new drive............


How many drives are you running in your system? If you have that many you should think about consolidating some of them into a larger single drive so that you can free up a PCIe port and probably some bandwidth. I'd still go for a single 1080Ti over dual cards, for that matter a single 1070 is also a great choice. Are there that many games out there nowadays that support dual sli? A single 1070 will out perform a single 980, so it will make a difference on those particular games that do not support sli.


----------



## Mega Man

You couldn't get me to consolidate.

Yay, ads. I like 4gb. Just enough hd, not to bad to duplicate if the drive is dieing


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> How many drives are you running in your system? If you have that many you should think about consolidating some of them into a larger single drive so that you can free up a PCIe port and probably some bandwidth. I'd still go for a single 1080Ti over dual cards, for that matter a single 1070 is also a great choice. Are there that many games out there nowadays that support dual sli? A single 1070 will out perform a single 980, so it will make a difference on those particular games that do not support sli.


I have a fair few - problem us with my Cosmos 2 case it has 2 like removable hard drive docks which use 2 SATA connectors then I have a bluray drive and HDDVD drive which use another 2 one for the boot SSD s so doesnt leave much for storage external drives but understand what you are saying !

It may be my only option to free up a PCIe slot if I keep my 2 x 980's


----------



## smrdel

I have updated my BIOS with the R4E BIOS Update - 0801 version to enable PCIe M.2 boot drive capability.

Have I done it correctly according to my screenshot of my BIOS info ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> 
> 
> I have updated my BIOS with the R4E BIOS Update - 0801 version to enable PCIe M.2 boot drive capability.
> 
> Have I done it correctly according to my screenshot of my BIOS info ?




Go to boot tab page in the bios scroll down to CSM and enable uefi boot from pcie legacy devices and it should come up in the boot order . And put that drives description at top of boot order










Actually what bios did you flash ? Cause I see bios information 403 on that page . I assumed you had flashed the latest nvme bios like 801


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Go to boot tab page in the bios scroll down to CSM and enable uefi boot from pcie legacy devices and it should come up in the boot order . And put that drives description at top of boot order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually what bios did you flash ? Cause I see bios information 403 on that page . I assumed you had flashed the latest nvme bios like 801


I thought I grabbed the correct one from this page

https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download

and then worked my way into here and grabbed the 0801 version from here

https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%21APSrQqIC6rW03jk&id=8958E7AE29E4BA6C%2111941&cid=8958E7AE29E4BA6C

which was called RB4E.CAP ?

I shutdown the PC installed the USB drive in the correct BIOS update slot and pressed the button until it started flashing - then waited till it stopped.

Do I need to extract the cab file or leave as is ?

Do I need to turn the PC right off including turning the mains power off before updating the BIOS ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

@smrdel

You didn't flash it correctly then , cause it says 403 on that screener .

Make sure the usb key is fat 32 format and is in the top usb port next to top switch .

You want the 801 NVMe testing file eh

Leave file as is . And puter powered down


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> @smrdel
> 
> You didn't flash it correctly then , cause it says 403 on that screener .
> 
> Make sure the usb key is fat 32 format and is in the top usb port next to top switch .
> 
> You want the 801 NVMe testing file eh
> 
> Leave file as is . And puter powered down


I worked out what I did wrong - some stupid person ( ME) decided to try and flash the BIOS from the wrong USB port at the back - even after reading the Manual to work out which one is the correct port and the one you were talking about









CPU - Z shows 0801 BIOS now









Question - does this update include all the previous BIOS updates to date ? on the official Asus website the last beta BIOS update is 0801 which Enables 128GB(8*16GB) support by IM ( Intelligent Memory ) memory modules ?

I was a bit worried as the PC needed 2 restarts to fire up then I needed to get back into BIOS to choose the boot drive to get back into Windows !

I assume now I can install my PCIe card with M.2 SSD installed and choose the correct boot drive and do my fresh install of windows - after I first do some backing up of stuff


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> I worked out what I did wrong - some stupid person ( ME) decided to try and flash the BIOS from the wrong USB port at the back - even after reading the Manual to work out which one is the correct port and the one you were talking about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU - Z shows 0801 BIOS now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question - does this update include all the previous BIOS updates to date ? on the official Asus website the last beta BIOS update is 0801 which Enables 128GB(8*16GB) support by IM ( Intelligent Memory ) memory modules ?
> 
> I was a bit worried as the PC needed 2 restarts to fire up then I needed to get back into BIOS to choose the boot drive to get back into Windows !
> 
> I assume now I can install my PCIe card with M.2 SSD installed and choose the correct boot drive and do my fresh install of windows - after I first do some backing up of stuff


Yes and yes and its just learning the new code . The BE is designed to this . Including new ram timings and the like









I will take screeners of what the boot screen looks like .

Edit





You cant possibly bork this now


----------



## smrdel

so which 16GB RAM sticks does the BE support with this BIOS update ? We talking about DDR3 still or DDR4 ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> so which 16GB RAM sticks does the BE support with this BIOS update ? We talking about DDR3 still or DDR4 ?


Are you trolling me ?!



DDR3


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Are you trolling me ?!
> 
> DDR3


I thought it was only DDR3 but cant seem to find any 16GB DDR3 RAM chips...........?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> I thought it was only DDR3 but cant seem to find any 16GB DDR3 RAM chips...........?


Newegg , Amazon in 'Murica

DDR 3 ram is starting to be hard to get wat ya want eh


----------



## smrdel

I had enough trouble to get matching RAM when I wanted to upgrade my RAM - I went from 2x 8GB Corsair Dominators to another 2 x 8GB RAM i.e 32 GB all up - needed to get the from Ebay UK !


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Mega wallet raping going on there M8


----------



## LunaP

Hrnghhh major headache, swapped out the cards, post, noticed some water had leaked when putting em back in, waited overnight, pc posts now but after rebooting now doesn't even post, looked at the Q CODE display on the motherboard and its going haywire running through the same 9 codes over and over lol, unplugged everything again and just waiting till I get home from work for things to air out.

Given that the 980ti is about 2cm shorter than the 1080ti, it makes it finnicky to make a proper SLI bridge ( since I use hard tubing ) any fun or interesting types of bridge connectors anyone recommends for this stuff? I"m gonna need it going forward since x16 slots have 1 slot in between so the 980ti will have to be in between the 2x 1080ti's


----------



## Mega Man

In reality 16gb sticks are really server only


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> In reality 16gb sticks are really server only


Then what are 128gb sticks? xD

16 are definitely better for taking stress of the controllers though since u can have less sticks in quad.
I got my 4x16gb kit here ready to install, which I think is about time since I'm pretty sure my boards dead.

if I disconnect power fully for 30 seconds then turn it on I can get to the bios but thats it , any defaults or settings I set once it reboots it just goes to Q CODE 00 which is kinda bland atm. Been troubleshooting this since last night.


----------



## Laithan

NO good deed goes un-punished









IMO you've either done permanent water damage or there is still dampness somewhere and it's creating a short...fixable..

I'd probably stick the board in the oven @ 150F (not enough to melt anything), use hair dryer possibly... for about 10m to dry it up (in places you can't see/reach) and cross your fingers...

Searching for "How to dry a wet cell phone" can essentially be applicable to your motherboard also.. there's a LOT of very good ideas that people claim to have worked (rice, etc)

Good luck!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

00 usually means on other x79 asus and in particular RIVF ...... Borked cpu or skt related .

When I drowned my RIVE I just left it out in the sun . Came good .

Wishfull thinking eh


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> NO good deed goes un-punished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMO you've either done permanent water damage or there is still dampness somewhere and it's creating a short...fixable..
> 
> I'd probably stick the board in the oven @ 150F (not enough to melt anything), use hair dryer possibly... for about 10m to dry it up (in places you can't see/reach) and cross your fingers...
> 
> Searching for "How to dry a wet cell phone" can essentially be applicable to your motherboard also.. there's a LOT of very good ideas that people claim to have worked (rice, etc)
> 
> Good luck!


I thouhgt about that too which is why I left it off and unplugged all night w/ a large fan blowing at it for 18 hours. All my RAM registers as well as the CPU when its on for the first time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 00 usually means on other x79 asus and in particular RIVF ...... Borked cpu or skt related .
> 
> When I drowned my RIVE I just left it out in the sun . Came good .
> 
> Wishfull thinking eh


I reseated the RAM and unplgged the power, here's the issue so far:

After completely unplugging power for a few seconds, it will boot up, and either go to an "Overclock failed" or "cpu fan error" = I reset cmos, ANY changes, despite if changes or made or not, upon rebooting the PC will begin to start post then immediately shut off and not come back on anymore, if I start it up again it will sit at 00.

Now if I pull the power again, it starts over, it has 0 issues remembering its settings, and if I ignore overlcock failed ( or have it reset to defaults ) doesn't matter which, I can manually go into windows by selecting which drive to boot from in the bios. The moment I reboot from windows though or power down, I have to remove the power cables again else it will just boot back up to 00.

I was able to install my GPU drivers, and sli my 1080ti's and put the 980ti as an accessory card and activate the monitors and turn on sli, however the displays go on and off now, and certain games crash w/ dx errors.

Windows either BSOD's w/ the following

Page fault in a non paged area
Or
Memory management.

I'm stumped at this point, since I've been working w/ asus support, rog forums and other areas trying to get a clue as to what might be wrong.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

@LunaP

Ive gone back over your posts and the one thing that is sticks to my mind is the x8 issue with your PCIe slots from day one and the possibility of water getting in the pcie slot recently right ?

And the pcie slots are connected directly to the CPU skt right ?

Also you said that you might have damaged a trace ??

When installing the cards again ???


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> @LunaP
> 
> Ive gone back over your posts and the one thing that is sticks to my mind is the x8 issue with your PCIe slots from day one and the possibility of water getting in the pcie slot recently right ?
> 
> And the pcie slots are connected directly to the CPU skt right ?
> 
> Also you said that you might have damaged a trace ??
> 
> When installing the cards again ???


No no just a pin on the the back part of the lane making it force 8x only which the pinouts are fine in there, the gpu's post from them with no issue and bios sees it. There's 0 way the cpu could be lose either since its under a waterblock. I dread removing that, and I haven't gone anywhere near the cpu during putting the gpu's in.

Previously 3x 980ti's were in the slots an no issues, and 3x titans prior to that, I didn't touch the slot that had the pin when swapping out 1 980 for the ti though so I doubt any water got inside, if it did at least I'd be seeing weird RAM counting issues or something else. I'm just stumped at why removing power seems to fix this, and it lets me get to windows no issue, only to repeat the moment a reboot happens.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> No no just a pin on the the back part of the lane making it force 8x only which the pinouts are fine in there, the gpu's post from them with no issue and bios sees it. There's 0 way the cpu could be lose either since its under a waterblock. I dread removing that, and I haven't gone anywhere near the cpu during putting the gpu's in.
> 
> Previously 3x 980ti's were in the slots an no issues, and 3x titans prior to that, I didn't touch the slot that had the pin when swapping out 1 980 for the ti though so I doubt any water got inside, if it did at least I'd be seeing weird RAM counting issues or something else. I'm just stumped at why removing power seems to fix this, and it lets me get to windows no issue, only to repeat the moment a reboot happens.


Yeah I'm no engineer and I don't know a lot of things but that's directly related to power delivery , sounds to me maybe vrm related or I'm off track again


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Yeah I'm no engineer and I don't know a lot of things but that's directly related to power delivery , sounds to me maybe vrm related or I'm off track again


Took a heat gun to it for about 2 minute intervals at a time, till it felt nice and warm gave it time to cool and repeated, but nothing so far, still boots up as if fresh, go to load / reboot or anything and poof its gone again till u cycle full power. Can still get to windows as well.....


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Took a heat gun to it for about 2 minute intervals at a time, till it felt nice and warm gave it time to cool and repeated, but nothing so far, *still boots up as if fresh, go to load / reboot or anything and poof its gone again till u cycle full power. Can still get to windows* as well.....




I


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> I


You're misunderstanding , it was simple vs the oven trick to ensure there were no damp areas , even though no water got on anything had to be sure, this was in response to other persons suggestion.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> You're misunderstanding , it was simple vs the oven trick to ensure there were no damp areas , even though no water got on anything had to be sure, this was in response to other persons suggestion.


I'm confused as to why its borking up on you like this in general m8









That's why


----------



## LunaP

Back up sorta, but now getting a
USB over current detected, shutting down in 15 seconds.

Unplugged the front USB and pins are kinda bent anyways on the motherboard now probably from all the reseats, unplugged and held hte poewr down to discharge, back in windows, time to see how long It lasts.


----------



## smrdel

Whats better value ?

a i7 4930K @$125 or a i7 4960x @$370 plus

this is an upgrade over i7 4820k


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Whats better value ?
> 
> a i7 4930K @$125 or a i7 4960x @$370 plus
> 
> this is an upgrade over i7 4820k


4930k cause that's friggin cheeeeeeep as


----------



## LunaP

Well at least Im' up and running, this will hold me over till xspc releases their TR blocks, the pins are bent on my front usb connector slot ( on the mobo ) tried to reseat it but noticed one was bent in, so just leaving it unplugged for now.

Its been a good run so far though.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Well at least Im' up and running, this will hold me over till xspc releases their TR blocks, the pins are bent on my front usb connector slot ( on the mobo ) tried to reseat it but noticed one was bent in, so just leaving it unplugged for now.
> 
> Its been a good run so far though.


Up and running is preferred


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Up and running is preferred


So the issue ( apparently ) turns out the that the 24 pin connector to the board only had 20 pins in since its a custom threaded cable ( forgot but its from the reputable seller/maker that everyone here recommended) the other 4 pin part actually hooks on to it was on the other side of the case ( so essentially never plugged in ) Mind you I still have the 6 pin plugged in + the molex for additional power to begin w/. its a wonder that it even worked to begin w/ given the OC I have.

Running 3x titans up to 3x 980ti's never had an issue but incoming 2x 1080ti's + 1 980ti suddenly just wasn't enough power lol, Now it seems to be running ok but still choking a bit but thats probably due to 0 HB bridge atm ( using 2 ribbon cables till mine arrives tomorrow ) and only 1 16x slot.

Either way, DEF looking forward to my upgrade at least, but glad to know I won't be in the dark until then.

Not sure about the USB short but definitely discharging the power fixed it.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So the issue ( apparently ) turns out the that the 24 pin connector to the board only had 20 pins in since its a custom threaded cable ( forgot but its from the reputable seller/maker that everyone here recommended) *the other 4 pin part actually hooks on to it was on the other side of the case ( so essentially never plugged in )* Mind you I still have the 6 pin plugged in + the molex for additional power to begin w/. its a wonder that it even worked to begin w/ given the OC I have.
> 
> Running 3x titans up to 3x 980ti's never had an issue but incoming 2x 1080ti's + 1 980ti suddenly just wasn't enough power lol, Now it seems to be running ok but still choking a bit but thats probably due to 0 HB bridge atm ( using 2 ribbon cables till mine arrives tomorrow ) and only 1 16x slot.
> 
> Either way, DEF looking forward to my upgrade at least, but glad to know I won't be in the dark until then.
> 
> Not sure about the USB short but definitely discharging the power fixed it.




Are you friggin kidding me m8


----------



## bee144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Whats better value ?
> 
> a i7 4930K @$125 or a i7 4960x @$370 plus
> 
> this is an upgrade over i7 4820k


I just upgraded my 4930K to a 4960X.

I got my 4960X for $200. Surely you can find a cheaper 4960X if you're in the USA.


----------



## Laithan

Don't forget to browse the E5-16xx V2 chips also
(yes they are unlocked)


----------



## smrdel

I thought it was - grabbed one for $122.50 on EBay today







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bee144*
> 
> I just upgraded my 4930K to a 4960X.
> 
> I got my 4960X for $200. Surely you can find a cheaper 4960X if you're in the USA.


I have been keeping an eye on prices - I am from Australia so some US ebay prices are cheap but then they charge a heap fro postage.

I picked up a 4930k for AUD $122.50 on Ebay locally which I thought was a good price considering what i could find for the 4960x. There was another auction recently where someone payed AUD$240 for the 4930k

so that will have to do for the time being as a upgrade over my 4820k !

To get a 4960X for $US200 is a pretty good price/deal which i have not seen yet ! minimum I can fin atm is about AUD $370- $400


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Are you friggin kidding me m8


lol its the little things in life that matter


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bee144*
> 
> I just upgraded my 4930K to a 4960X.
> 
> I got my 4960X for $200. Surely you can find a cheaper 4960X if you're in the USA.


Certain hes in Straya









Nvm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> lol its the little things in life that matter


----------



## FIDDY57

I got a 4960x on ebay 2 months ago for 200$ usd.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Certain hes in Straya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nvm


For the record it still takes about 3-4 minutes to POST but still requires to kill power fully from the back before starting. So either way this things on its way out the door.


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I got a 4960x on ebay 2 months ago for 200$ usd.


Good get I say - assume you in the US and talking $US ?

I suppose you can get lucky depending when you look









Cheapest now is $US300


----------



## Laithan

Set up a saved search on ebay


----------



## LunaP

N/m perm stuck on USB current overprotection shutting down in 15 seconds. This things gone, nothings plugged into the USB either, and I disconnected all the USB headers on the board as well as disabled them.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> *For the record it still takes about 3-4 minutes to POST* but still requires to kill power fully from the back before starting. So either way this things on its way out the door.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> N/m perm stuck on USB current overprotection shutting down in 15 seconds. This things gone, nothings plugged into the USB either, and I disconnected all the USB headers on the board as well as disabled them.
Click to expand...



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Set up a saved search on ebay


This


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> This


That was before and after lol making adjustments, it still takes 3-4 minutes at times but then still comes up w/ the USB overvolt protection, now unless the LN2 switch somehow got turned on , I've no idea what would suddenly cause this.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> That was before and after lol making adjustments, it still takes 3-4 minutes at times but then still comes up w/ the USB overvolt protection, now unless the LN2 switch somehow got turned on , I've no idea what would suddenly cause this.


The cascade effect


----------



## Rangerscott

I was able to get 4 new sticks of those samsung "wonder" ram off ebay. Should be here today.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> I was able to get 4 new sticks of those samsung "wonder" ram off ebay. Should be here today.


I don't mean to be cheeky ( yes I do ) , but how is it getting there by boat ?


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I don't mean to be cheeky ( yes I do ) , but how is it getting there by boat ?


?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> ?


Your location is in Texas right ??

NVM


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> I was able to get 4 new sticks of those samsung "wonder" ram off ebay. Should be here today.


I would be interested to know which ones they are ?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> 
> Your location is in Texas right ??
> 
> NVM
Click to expand...

Joking about yr floods... Hurricane Harvey...


----------



## Rangerscott

Im far away from Houston. Couldnt pay me enough to live there.


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> I would be interested to know which ones they are ?


Its the samsung MV-3V4G3/US sticks. Theyre 30nm chips, low voltage but were found out to be good overclockers. Got 4 new sticks for $95. Most are used and going for a lot more.

Thought Id give them a go for fun sakes.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> Im far away from Houston. Couldnt pay me enough to live there.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I see you've been searching for some good Dom Plats HOME:

*http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dominator-Platinum-Series-16GB-4-x-4GB-DDR3-DRAM-2133MHz-C9-Memory-Kit-/162648942208?hash=item25dea1e680:g:uGYAAOSwGY1Zo8OS*

High bin Samsung chips.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I see you've been searching for some good Dom Plats HOME:
> 
> *http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dominator-Platinum-Series-16GB-4-x-4GB-DDR3-DRAM-2133MHz-C9-Memory-Kit-/162648942208?hash=item25dea1e680:g:uGYAAOSwGY1Zo8OS*
> 
> High bin Samsung chips.


Holy Dram !! Mr Tooshort man !!



Unfortunately no mun , no fun atm









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Joking about yr floods... Hurricane Harvey...


Hey m8 .

Glad to see someone gets me around these interwebz


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I see you've been searching for some good Dom Plats HOME:
> 
> *http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dominator-Platinum-Series-16GB-4-x-4GB-DDR3-DRAM-2133MHz-C9-Memory-Kit-/162648942208?hash=item25dea1e680:g:uGYAAOSwGY1Zo8OS*
> 
> High bin Samsung chips.


I wonder how those compare to mine.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> I wonder how those compare to mine.


I wonder too









Its a quad channel kit too not a triple channel kit


----------



## Laithan

You can also use these. Specifically made for X79. They seem hard to find though (lots of similar model #'s to confuse us)









How they are vs Corsair IDK, assume comparable. In my experience I was able to get 2,400Mhz using my RIVBE but it took some tinkering. They don't like to go much higher that's for sure..


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> I wonder how those compare to mine.


Same sticks with different heat spreaders. ver4.13.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Same sticks with different heat spreaders. ver4.13.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*


Oh yeah forgot to mention that I'm running the BE and all four 2666 dom plats are running perfectly again it turns out that mega dust everywhere and 2 dodgey psu's were to blame .

I still not sure whats wrong with me RIVE and 3930k combo . Its sat around for awhile now i should check it ............ nah


----------



## LunaP

Revived my board, sent back the 1950x and zenith, gonna just go 7980X and call it a day lol now that they can easily delid it


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> *Revived my board, sent back the 1950x and zenith,* gonna just go 7980X and call it a day lol now that they can easily delid it


Well done


----------



## chrisnyc75

Since you guys have mad RAM finding skillz, anybody know where I might be able to find these? http://www.corsair.com/en-us/dominator-platinum-series-8gb-2-x-4gb-ddr3-dram-2133mhz-c8-memory-kit-cmd8gx3m2a2133c8

My system regularly maxes out my 8gb these days, and I'm not really planning on upgrading this system anytime soon. If I could find a duplicate set to supplement my current set I'd probably be good for a couple more years.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Since you guys have mad RAM finding skillz, anybody know where I might be able to find these? http://www.corsair.com/en-us/dominator-platinum-series-8gb-2-x-4gb-ddr3-dram-2133mhz-c8-memory-kit-cmd8gx3m2a2133c8
> 
> My system regularly maxes out my 8gb these days, and I'm not really planning on upgrading this system anytime soon. If I could find a duplicate set to supplement my current set I'd probably be good for a couple more years.












C8 2133mhz .........









good luck with that m8


----------



## Kimir

That's what I run daily on my TZ (2600c10). Plenty fast








If you can't find the 2133C8, just look for the 2600/2666C10, they should be capable of doing it.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> C8 2133mhz .........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good luck with that m8


Yeah, that's what I thought. lol Ironically, I originally had 16gb, but decided to downsize to 8gb and sell the 16gb set when the value was still really high. At the time, I didn't really expect this system would last quite as long as it has. If I had realized I wouldn't be looking to upgrade until 2019 or beyond I would have kept the 16gb.

Anyway, I can manage with 8gb, but it tends to slow down if I have too many tabs open in my browser, or basically anything else open while i'm gaming.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That's what I run daily on my TZ (2600c10). Plenty fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can't find the 2133C8, just look for the 2600/2666C10, they should be capable of doing it.


Not sure I'll have any more luck with that than 2133 c8, but I'll give it a shot. Thanks


----------



## Kimir

There is the 2800C12 too, quite pricey tho.
Found the 2133C8 in Amazon of my country too, dat price...


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> There is the 2800C12 too, quite pricey tho.
> Found the 2133C8 in Amazon of my country too, dat price...


Yeah, that's the exact set I originally had, I think I sold it for around $400 a couple of years ago. I can't really spend that much on it right now and I only really need 8gb, not the whole 16. But thanks for the link!


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Please add me to owners club
https://valid.x86.fr/ns1zfd


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> Please add me to owners club
> https://valid.x86.fr/ns1zfd


Sure !


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> Please add me to owners club
> https://valid.x86.fr/ns1zfd


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*


I don't think anyone has been added to that list in years. I was under the impression no one here could do that as I asked way back and that is what I was told....


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I don't think anyone has been added to that list in years. I was under the impression no one here could do that as I asked way back and that is what I was told....


The threadstarter has to relinquish control first and then a invite from whomever has the access to google docs is next


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> The threadstarter has to relinquish control first and then a invite from whomever has the access to google docs is next


That is apparently @LunaP. Any chance of adding those of us who are still here?


----------



## alancsalt

Last Edited by LunaP - 11/11/14 at 6:16pm

Don't think it is a google doc, just a list box. EDIT: I'm wrong again. It is a Google doc.

Current OP has to be willing to relinquish.
Then you need someone willing to update, approved by an "Editor of section". If there is no appointed Editor, then Forum Manager.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Last Edited by LunaP - 11/11/14 at 6:16pm
> 
> Don't think it is a google doc, just a list box.
> 
> Current OP has to be willing to relinquish.
> Then you need someone willing to update, approved by an "Editor of section". If there is no appointed Editor, then Forum Manager.


@LunaP

I would like to take over the thread , no problem


----------



## LunaP

Hmm (permission wise) I added quite a few people actually but haven't seen any of them post as of late, lemme dig it up.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm (permission wise) I added quite a few people actually but haven't seen any of them post as of late, lemme dig it up.


Its your call dude , its not a big deal


----------



## alancsalt

I'll vouch for HOMECINEMA-PC's rampant enthusiasm for this mobo.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I'll vouch for HOMECINEMA-PC's rampant enthusiasm for this mobo.


Also the fact that its served me very well indeed .

I cant see trouble free operation on x99 , x299 or Threadripoff


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I don't think anyone has been added to that list in years. I was under the impression no one here could do that as I asked way back and that is what I was told....


oh my goodness, y'all getting so technical! lol I honestly have no idea. I was just kidding because there's like 5 of us left here at this point, I was like "ok, you wanna join our club? BAM! You're in." lol

I have no idea if I'm on any official list or not, I just declared myself in the club ages ago and moved on with my life. lol


----------



## Shadowarez

my Rive 4 Be Has finally given up, is there any other x79 board that can handle the i74960x or was this the only board to use it? i checked Ebay the prices are higher then whati paid lol $550-$1280 for the board.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hmm (permission wise) I added quite a few people actually but haven't seen any of them post as of late, lemme dig it up.


I asked ages ago and am still not on that list


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> my Rive 4 Be Has finally given up, is there any other x79 board that can handle the i74960x or was this the only board to use it? i checked Ebay the prices are higher then whati paid lol $550-$1280 for the board.


A vigil shall be held in memory of your board. May we have a moment of silence please...........................................................................................

Yeah the prices for this board have jumped pretty high in many cases. The thing is there is not much real difference in performance between this board and the next gen x99 boards. In fact I have seen the Rampage V x99 board on the deals part of Newegg many times over for just over $200! The only real thing those boards off are better USB support and maybe better onboard audio.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

New 1660 V2 came in and had a chance to test it quick:



1.175v for the core, not stable. Should be good for 1.25v 4.5GHz 24/7.

Before anyone asks, I still have my 1680 V2.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> New 1660 V2 came in and had a chance to test it quick:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.175v for the core, not stable. Should be good for 1.25v 4.5GHz 24/7.
> 
> Before anyone asks, I still have my 1680 V2.


Nice! But I was wondering how you keep your temps so low? I forget if you are using extreme cooling or not.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Just watercooling and low ambient. Nothing special.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> New 1660 V2 came in and had a chance to test it quick:
> 
> 
> 
> 1.175v for the core, not stable. Should be good for 1.25v 4.5GHz 24/7.
> 
> Before anyone asks, I still have my 1680 V2.












If you don't mind me asking, what made you decide to drop down to a 6-core? Looking for higher clocks?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Back up cpu. Got a good deal on it so I went for it. Eventually I'll upgrade and this x79 will go to my son, so then I might sell the 1680 and he can just get the 1660.


----------



## Shadowarez

Update looks like it also took out my titan x hybrid from EVGA lol. It was only a matter of time Ty guys this was the best board I'll have ever owned as iv sen were Intel is going and it isn't quality like these.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I asked ages ago and am still not on that list


Added a few people as in permission to update the google doc that showcases the list, I've been on 2 deployments over seas since ( 1 6month and 1 366 day one ) I put that out as well for the list too at the time so people could send me their email to be added and or list link lol.

Also yeah got the list up, couldn't remember which email it was tied to, since my drive has so many diff work docs in it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> Please add me to owners club
> https://valid.x86.fr/ns1zfd


Added
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good luck with that m8


Added
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I don't think anyone has been added to that list in years. I was under the impression no one here could do that as I asked way back and that is what I was told....


Added

Any new info or links especially to add the OP I'll pop in, if anyone wants to dump em in as well as anything else.


----------



## Laithan

Thank you for your service


----------



## Madmaxneo

@LunaP
Thanks for the add!
It has been more than 2 years since I asked. I gave up at a certain point and just thought it wasn't that important. I vaguely remember someone at some point mentioning they were trying to get admin access to this list so they could add people, but as far as I know it never happened....lol. Either way thanks again for the add.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @LunaP
> Thanks for the add!
> It has been more than 2 years since I asked. I gave up at a certain point and just thought it wasn't that important. I vaguely remember someone at some point mentioning they were trying to get admin access to this list so they could add people, but as far as I know it never happened....lol. Either way thanks again for the add.


Yeah I had added several users that frequented the thread the most to it which were supposedly updating it but I haven't seen them posting in forever, I'll be happy to add anyone to the google sheet though lol, just pm me an email to add and I'll add it. I'm back now as well so I"ll be monitoring it more, especially since I'm not 24/7 on here due to x299, glad I didn't go 399.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah I had added several users that frequented the thread the most to it which were supposedly updating it but I haven't seen them posting in forever, I'll be happy to add anyone to the google sheet though lol, just pm me an email to add and I'll add it. I'm back now as well so I"ll be monitoring it more, especially since I'm not 24/7 on here due to x299, glad I didn't go 399.


Will do!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Thank you for your service


+12

yes 12 !


----------



## avikbellic911

Yo guys! Sorry to barge into this thread, but i need help with my board!

Recently after Windows 10's New updates & Nvidia Updates past 3 months i have faced major issue with this board.....I face a problem where there is a Random Freeze and then "NO SIGNAL" and PC is still runnin On.

I Checked and changed every hardware none gives this problem..... the only thing i found is "nvlddmkm stopped responding " in event log, I changed GPU's too but results are same......i formateed,scanned replaced PSUs and many things u would normally do this is somehting do do with the BIOS or windows 10 or Nvidia's driver...

Anyone of ya face this issue?

To Understand my Problem Better Check my Thread here: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?96085-Random-quot-No-Signal-quot-Issue-past-3-months-on-Asus-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-x79-Mobo

Operating System: Windows 10 x64 Pro (Original Purchase)
Mobo: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition x79 (Bios Latest 801)
Processor: intel Core i7 4960x 3.6Ghz (No turbo enabled cause i dont need)
Ram: G.Skills 32GB 2400Quad Channel XMP mode DDR3
Storage-Mechanical: 12TB 7400HDD x 6
Storage-Non Mechanical: 500GB SSD x 1
GPU: Nvidia Stock Titan X (only 1 card)
Cooler: Corsair H100i
CASE: Cooler Master Stryker
PSU: Corsair RM1000X


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avikbellic911*
> 
> Yo guys! Sorry to barge into this thread, but i need help with my board!
> 
> Recently after Windows 10's New updates & Nvidia Updates past 3 months i have faced major issue with this board.....I face a problem where there is a Random Freeze and then "NO SIGNAL" and PC is still runnin On.
> 
> I Checked and changed every hardware none gives this problem..... the only thing i found is "nvlddmkm stopped responding " in event log, I changed GPU's too but results are same......i formateed,scanned replaced PSUs and many things u would normally do this is somehting do do with the BIOS or windows 10 or Nvidia's driver...
> 
> Anyone of ya face this issue?
> 
> To Understand my Problem Better Check my Thread here: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?96085-Random-quot-No-Signal-quot-Issue-past-3-months-on-Asus-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-x79-Mobo
> 
> Operating System: Windows 10 x64 Pro (Original Purchase)
> Mobo: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition x79 (Bios Latest 801)
> Processor: intel Core i7 4960x 3.6Ghz (No turbo enabled cause i dont need)
> Ram: G.Skills 32GB 2400Quad Channel XMP mode DDR3
> Storage-Mechanical: 12TB 7400HDD x 6
> Storage-Non Mechanical: 500GB SSD x 1
> GPU: Nvidia Stock Titan X (only 1 card)
> Cooler: Corsair H100i
> CASE: Cooler Master Stryker
> PSU: Corsair RM1000X


That's a nvidia driver crash. Did you do a clean install of your gpu?


----------



## avikbellic911

Yep, Used DDU & formatted PC 2 times already......I googled and talked to few.....there are about 1000+ people who are going with this same problem of mine most people who face this problem run a x79 mobo and is unsolved, I dont know if Nvidia has realized this or not or if Windows 10 updates is at fault......i am totally in wreck. I built the system for work and i cant do nothing now since this problem has started past 3months.

im using R4BE Bios 801 and used Previous ones to see if they fixed it but none did.......So im gonna say its not Bios either.

Asus also has limited driver for this board for now so thats one problem too.....i did install all the drivers from their site but im not sure if its their driver at fault either.

For one thing i'm very sure this Problem is not Hardware related.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avikbellic911*
> 
> Yep, Used DDU & formatted PC 2 times already......I googled and talked to few.....there are about 1000+ people who are going with this same problem of mine most people who face this problem run a x79 mobo and is unsolved, I dont know if Nvidia has realized this or not or if Windows 10 updates is at fault......i am totally in wreck. I built the system for work and i cant do nothing now since this problem has started past 3months.
> 
> im using R4BE Bios 801 and used Previous ones to see if they fixed it but none did.......So im gonna say its not Bios either.
> 
> Asus also has limited driver for this board for now so thats one problem too.....i did install all the drivers from their site but im not sure if its their driver at fault either.
> 
> For one thing i'm very sure this Problem is not Hardware related.


Did you update ur GPU drivers 3 months ago? I know that Nvidia stopped supporting previous card versions and pretty much broke hardware that was pre 1000 series, there have been quite a few threads on it as well as 1 giant 100+ page one on nvidia.

I'd swap back to 354 ( or was it 357 ) that was the last good one before major changes started to hit. you COULD start w/ 372.54 and then go backwards to check it, however the new ones do not play well with oldercards.

Have you tried disabling your 240GT ( if you have them both in your system ) to see if that helps?

Also as a side test make sure Vtd and virtual support are off along w/ CSM and see if you still get the issue. I'm gonna guess you've already swapped out the cables ( if DP )

Also Do you have hardware updates turned of for windows? And are you on creators ? or is it failing to install for you i.e after windows update you get a black screen upon reboot till u reboot again and it reverts?


----------



## avikbellic911

Since this Year 2017 The Nvidia 380.xx to Current all 385.41 i faced the issue......but just yesterday i randomly swapped back to Nvidia 368.81 very old but it crashes my PC pretty late,

The Current Latest drivers would Crash me within 1 to 2hr whereas the old Driver would let me run my PC 5hrs long. I have overclocked & Downclocked within the old drivers too they are very stable too.

The Main thing i wanna know is where is the problem......i really want this badly to be fixed, by my assumption i know this is software related issue!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avikbellic911*
> 
> Since this Year 2017 The Nvidia 380.xx to Current all 385.41 i faced the issue......but just yesterday i randomly swapped back to Nvidia 368.81 very old but it crashes my PC pretty late,
> 
> The Current Latest drivers would Crash me within 1 to 2hr whereas the old Driver would let me run my PC 5hrs long. I have overclocked & Downclocked within the old drivers too they are very stable too.
> 
> The Main thing i wanna know is where is the problem......i really want this badly to be fixed, by my assumption i know this is software related issue!


Check bottom of my post updated it as you responded I think.


----------



## avikbellic911

There Can be Only 3 Problems;

1.Nvidia Driver.
2.Asus Bios.
3.Windows 10 System Compiling Codes with the X79 Board.

So when ever i Freeze Crash with "NO SINGAL" i find 2 Error Codes.

#1."nvlddmkm stopped responding "

#2. Qcode Error 40 on my Mobo Qcode Display. (this code appers rare times on the crash tho)

by conclusion is its indeed the drivers but which part of is Triggering the Nvidia to be working so Abnormally i wonder.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avikbellic911*
> 
> There Can be Only 3 Problems;
> 
> 1.Nvidia Driver.
> 2.Asus Bios.
> 3.Windows 10 System Compiling Codes with the X79 Board.
> 
> So when ever i Freeze Crash with "NO SINGAL" i find 2 Error Codes.
> 
> #1."nvlddmkm stopped responding "
> 
> #2. Qcode Error 40 on my Mobo Qcode Display. (this code appers rare times on the crash tho)
> 
> by conclusion is its indeed the drivers but which part of is Triggering the Nvidia to be working so Abnormally i wonder.


If you've got it figured out then n/m.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avikbellic911*
> 
> Yo guys! Sorry to barge into this thread, but i need help with my board!
> 
> Recently after Windows 10's New updates & Nvidia Updates past 3 months i have faced major issue with this board.....I face a problem where there is a Random Freeze and then "NO SIGNAL" and PC is still runnin On.
> 
> I Checked and changed every hardware none gives this problem..... the only thing i found is "nvlddmkm stopped responding " in event log, I changed GPU's too but results are same......i formateed,scanned replaced PSUs and many things u would normally do this is somehting do do with the BIOS or windows 10 or Nvidia's driver...
> 
> Anyone of ya face this issue?
> 
> To Understand my Problem Better Check my Thread here: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?96085-Random-quot-No-Signal-quot-Issue-past-3-months-on-Asus-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-x79-Mobo
> 
> Operating System: Windows 10 x64 Pro (Original Purchase)
> Mobo: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition x79 (Bios Latest 801)
> Processor: intel Core i7 4960x 3.6Ghz (No turbo enabled cause i dont need)
> Ram: G.Skills 32GB 2400Quad Channel XMP mode DDR3
> Storage-Mechanical: 12TB 7400HDD x 6
> Storage-Non Mechanical: 500GB SSD x 1
> GPU: Nvidia Stock Titan X (only 1 card)
> Cooler: Corsair H100i
> CASE: Cooler Master Stryker
> PSU: Corsair RM1000X


Just to add i have this issue on various pcs since a windows update as well, amd or nvidia

Yay windows 10.....


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Yep Win 10


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avikbellic911*
> 
> Yo guys! Sorry to barge into this thread, but i need help with my board!
> 
> Recently after Windows 10's New updates & Nvidia Updates past 3 months i have faced major issue with this board.....I face a problem where there is a Random Freeze and then "NO SIGNAL" and PC is still runnin On.
> 
> I Checked and changed every hardware none gives this problem..... the only thing i found is "nvlddmkm stopped responding " in event log, I changed GPU's too but results are same......i formateed,scanned replaced PSUs and many things u would normally do this is somehting do do with the BIOS or windows 10 or Nvidia's driver...
> 
> Anyone of ya face this issue?
> 
> To Understand my Problem Better Check my Thread here: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?96085-Random-quot-No-Signal-quot-Issue-past-3-months-on-Asus-Rampage-IV-Black-Edition-x79-Mobo
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Operating System: Windows 10 x64 Pro (Original Purchase)
> Mobo: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition x79 (Bios Latest 801)
> Processor: intel Core i7 4960x 3.6Ghz (No turbo enabled cause i dont need)
> Ram: G.Skills 32GB 2400Quad Channel XMP mode DDR3
> Storage-Mechanical: 12TB 7400HDD x 6
> Storage-Non Mechanical: 500GB SSD x 1
> GPU: Nvidia Stock Titan X (only 1 card)
> Cooler: Corsair H100i
> CASE: Cooler Master Stryker
> PSU: Corsair RM1000X


I had pretty much the same problem with my old GTX 980 with the nvidia driver failing often. Then my card died completely. I sent it in to EVGA and they sent me a GTX 1070 as a warranty replacement and I have had no problems since. Note that I was also OCing my 980 with a modded bios and pushed that card hard of which I believe that was the cause of the issue. But I can only speculate and it seems like there are quite a few others having the same issue with pre 1000 series cards. I am running windows 10 creators version and I actually had to download it manually because the update just never seemed to be scheduled for this board.
I have one issue now that I have no idea on how to troubleshoot. Every once in a blue moon my system shuts down cold for no reason what so ever. I boot it back up and the only indication I have that something was wrong is the messages in event viewer, and all they indicate is the system was restarted after not shutting down properly.... This may be a windows issue, but I am also running a +1ghz daily OC on my 4930k.....


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avikbellic911*
> 
> There Can be Only 3 Problems;
> 
> 1.Nvidia Driver.
> 2.Asus Bios.
> 3.Windows 10 System Compiling Codes with the X79 Board.
> 
> So when ever i Freeze Crash with "NO SINGAL" i find 2 Error Codes.
> 
> #1."nvlddmkm stopped responding "
> 
> #2. Qcode Error 40 on my Mobo Qcode Display. (this code appers rare times on the crash tho)
> 
> by conclusion is its indeed the drivers but which part of is Triggering the Nvidia to be working so Abnormally i wonder.


Have you tried running your RAM at stock speed (not XMP), so 1066 or 1333 MHz? I think it's worth a shot. Also reset CMOS and try running it as stock as possible.

Usually nvlddmkm stopped responding is almost always hardware related, but since you are getting that on multiple GPUs, hard to say. I don't know about Creators Update but do you use Google Chrome when this happens?


----------



## avikbellic911

nope, i only use Firefox apparently. I crash without a warning on any program or even on ideal, i wont say its Specific Crash its just random.

*Update just Now:* Recently Just This Morning I ran a 3D Program Pixologic Zbrush & Overwatch game was minimized suddenly PC Froze but this Time a New Q-Code Error have Displayed- Th New Q-Code Error is Called "0E"

0E - its a MicroCode Error, im now sure its something to either do with the Bios being old or WIndow 10 itself, Since the majority Who Face The "Freeze/ No SIgnal" Issue like me uses Asus a x79 Board its very possible that some microcodes are yet to be corrected to completely work for Windows 10.

If i am wrong please do suggest me how can i correct the Microcode error......if its possible...


----------



## Kimir

That's with default setting in UEFI, like load optimized and nothing touched?


----------



## avikbellic911

Yep, nothing touched at all! infact nothing is Overclocked either.......temps below 40C on all components too.


----------



## Kimir

have you tried switching to the second bios chip to make sure it's not a UEFI issue.
I'd also try with one RAM and no additional hard drive but the OS one.

And if you don't black screen immediately, maybe try to load a voltage monitoring software like Aida or else and see how the voltages are.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

That's a good idea try the 2nd bios


----------



## avikbellic911

ok imaa try the 2nd bios then....let me test for 1 day and see if system works stable. i will report back.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> have you tried switching to the second bios chip to make sure it's not a UEFI issue.
> I'd also try with one RAM and no additional hard drive but the OS one.
> 
> And if you don't black screen immediately, maybe try to load a voltage monitoring software like Aida or else and see how the voltages are.


I suggested disabling CSM but they denied it lol. Theres been issues reported with 900/1000 series cards w/ that due to drivers. Just as a test anyways.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I suggested disabling CSM but they denied it lol. Theres been issues reported with 900/1000 series cards w/ that due to drivers. Just as a test anyways.


That's good advice. I've had numerous problems with CSM over the years. When all else fails, it's a good idea to fiddle with those settings or disable it altogether and see if that fixes it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

What is CSM?


----------



## Kimir

Compatiblity Support Module


----------



## Mega Man

Constantly stop machine


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Constantly stuttering mate


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Compatiblity Support Module


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Constantly stop machine


LOL!


----------



## smrdel

Hello all

I have a i7 4820k for sale after upgrading - PM me if interested


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What is CSM?


*IF* I understand it correctly, it assists with loading non-Windows approved drivers for running outside the Windows OS (or pre-Windows 8). If you only run Windows 8 or 10, there's no reason to enable it. HOWEVER, if you install a pre-OS loading driver (like gpu driver) with CSM ENabled and then DISable it (or vice versa), it causes problems. It's best to either enable it and leave it enabled, or disable it altogether and not touch it.

It's worth noting that the basis of the whole thing is Windows Secure Boot, which is a fancy way of saying "Microsoft wants you to upgrade to the newest Windows now please".


----------



## Madmaxneo

@chrisnyc75 Thanks for the explanation that makes sense!


----------



## Rangerscott

Anyone running an EK r4be monoblock and how is it?


----------



## Rangerscott

Well crud. Was getting my board setup and see that theres an extra 4 pin atx connection on top of the usual 8 pin and of course theres no adapter included.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> Well crud. Was getting my board setup and see that theres an extra 4 pin atx connection on top of the usual 8 pin and of course theres no adapter included.


I don't need to use my 4 pin . I also think you wont need to either m8


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> Well crud. Was getting my board setup and see that theres an extra 4 pin atx connection on top of the usual 8 pin and of course theres no adapter included.


Don't need the 4pin. Just the 8pin. 4pin there for extra juice for ln2 runs and such.


----------



## Rangerscott

Ok. The manual said to make sure all were juiced.

If I wasnt broke Id get a newer psu with the detacheable cables.


----------



## Rangerscott

So what bios should I be running since I just opened this time capsule board?

Currently has

0602 x64
02/26/2014
RGE1-X79b-0210
RGE2-X79b-0204
8.1.51.1471


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> So what bios should I be running since I just opened this time capsule board?
> 
> Currently has
> 
> 0602 x64
> 02/26/2014
> RGE1-X79b-0210
> RGE2-X79b-0204
> 8.1.51.1471


It depends on what you are looking for. If you simply want the latest bios that works well you can go with 0701 or 0801, the only difference is 0801 supports up to 128gb of RAM. If you are looking for NVME support there is a page somewhere that will allow you to download the latest bios with nvme support. I don't remember where the page is so hopefully someone on here can chime in. If not I do have the 0801 bios with NVME support. There is also a 0201 (?) pre release bios running around that some have implemented and seems to work good for certain OC values. Again someone on here would have to post it for you if you asked.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> So what bios should I be running since I just opened this time capsule board?
> 
> Currently has
> 
> 0602 x64
> 02/26/2014
> RGE1-X79b-0210
> RGE2-X79b-0204
> 8.1.51.1471


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It depends on what you are looking for. If you simply want the latest bios that works well you can go with 0701 or 0801, the only difference is 0801 supports up to 128gb of RAM. If you are looking for NVME support there is a page somewhere that will allow you to download the latest bios with nvme support. I don't remember where the page is so hopefully someone on here can chime in. If not I do have the 0801 bios with NVME support. There is also a 0201 (?) pre release bios running around that some have implemented and seems to work good for certain OC values. Again someone on here would have to post it for you if you asked.


Its in here









https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download

I got rid of some 290 cards to make way for the NVMe adapter cards


----------



## Rangerscott

UserBenchmarks: Game 91%, Desk 65%, Work 56%
CPU: Intel Core i7-4930K - *84.6%* ( 3.9Ghz turbo)
GPU: Nvidia GTX 980 Ti - *101.1%* (+100 mhz gpu/ram)
SSD: Intel Raid 0 Volume 2TB - *36.9%* (HDD's)
RAM: Corsair CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 4x4GB - *116.7%* (Dominators 2133)
MBD: Asus RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION

Cpu is just the stock turbo 3.9Ghz and I up'd the gpu & ram +100mhz. Also the SSD score is obviously for two HDD's in raid 0, not SSd's.

Guess it's time to sell the old trusty Bloddrage.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Some 1660 V2 benches:



*https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/22450778*


----------



## srialmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Its in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download
> 
> I got rid of some 290 cards to make way for the NVMe adapter cards


I am currently running the official 0701 release, but I cannot get either if the releases on this link to work. I have tried both the regular and the nvme test version of 0701. Is there any help you can shed on this?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> UserBenchmarks: Game 91%, Desk 65%, Work 56%
> CPU: Intel Core i7-4930K - *84.6%* ( 3.9Ghz turbo)
> GPU: Nvidia GTX 980 Ti - *101.1%* (+100 mhz gpu/ram)
> SSD: Intel Raid 0 Volume 2TB - *36.9%* (HDD's)
> RAM: Corsair CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 4x4GB - *116.7%* (Dominators 2133)
> MBD: Asus RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION
> 
> Cpu is just the stock turbo 3.9Ghz and I up'd the gpu & ram +100mhz. Also the SSD score is obviously for two HDD's in raid 0, not SSd's.
> 
> Guess it's time to sell the old trusty Bloddrage.


I did this same test and got some decent scores (Gaming 94% Desktop 77% and Workstation 73%) but it gave my SSDs low scores. My C drive was only in the 35th percentile as my 840 pro only got a score of 83%....lol
I've got my CPU OCd to 4.4ghz.


----------



## srialmaster

Has anyone had luck getting the 960 Pro to work on a PCIE x4 card adapter on this motherboard?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> Has anyone had luck getting the 960 Pro to work on a PCIE x4 card adapter on this motherboard?


Sounds like to me you haven't flashed the bios correctly m8 .

So tell me the steps you took to flash the bios .

The usb key must be fat16/32 or NTSF format and you need to switch your rig off when using the flashback method .


----------



## srialmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Sounds like to me you haven't flashed the bios correctly m8 .
> 
> So tell me the steps you took to flash the bios .
> 
> The usb key must be fat16/32 or NTSF format and you need to switch your rig off when using the flashback method .


I downloaded both the newest 0701 from the rog post, but neither works. I have a 16gb flash that is fat32 and i put the r4be.cab file in the root of it. Turned the system off and held the rog connect down until it blinks, but it doesn't blink long.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> I downloaded both the newest 0701 from the rog post, but neither works. I have a 16gb flash that is fat32 and i put the r4be.cab file in the root of it. Turned the system off and held the rog connect down until it blinks, but it doesn't blink long.


usb stick 2.0


----------



## srialmaster

It is a usb 2.0 in the slot labeled rog connect.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Get another usb 2.0 stick. Can't be usb 3.0 backwards compatible 2.0.


----------



## srialmaster

I'll try an older 1gb 2.0 and see if it works.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

That helps a bit


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Make sure you have it in right port


----------



## srialmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> Make sure you have it in right port


That's the port I was using. That top port.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

No need to sell just a few key upgrades

UserBenchmarks: Game 148%, Desk 144%, Work 144%
CPU: Intel Xeon E5-1680 v2 - 105.6%
GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti - 191.4%
SSD: Samsung 960 Pro NVMe PCIe M.2 1TB - 278.8%
RAM: Unknown 2400C10 Series 4x8GB - 122.3%
MBD: Asus RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION


----------



## srialmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> No need to sell just a few key upgrades
> 
> UserBenchmarks: Game 148%, Desk 144%, Work 144%
> CPU: Intel Xeon E5-1680 v2 - 105.6%
> GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti - 191.4%
> SSD: Samsung 960 Pro NVMe PCIe M.2 1TB - 278.8%
> RAM: Unknown 2400C10 Series 4x8GB - 122.3%
> MBD: Asus RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION


Are you running the NVME Test version 0701 or 0801?


----------



## Kimir

No idea what those percentage mean, but good for you!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> No idea what those percentage mean, but good for you!


Kimir, just seen your post so I googled userbenchmark and this site came up:

*http://www.userbenchmark.com/Software*

My results just now:

UserBenchmarks: Game 143%, Desk 128%, Work 115%
CPU: Intel Xeon E5-1660 v2 - 100.3%
GPU: Nvidia Titan X Pascal - 187.4%
SSD: Intel 750 Series NVMe PCIe 1.2TB - 237.6%
RAM: Corsair Dominator DDR3 2666 4x4GB - 151%
MBD: Asus RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION


----------



## Kimir

Oh okay, now I get it!


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> Are you running the NVME Test version 0701 or 0801?


Test version 0701


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> UserBenchmarks: Game 91%, Desk 65%, Work 56%
> CPU: Intel Core i7-4930K - *84.6%* ( 3.9Ghz turbo)
> GPU: Nvidia GTX 980 Ti - *101.1%* (+100 mhz gpu/ram)
> SSD: Intel Raid 0 Volume 2TB - *36.9%* (HDD's)
> RAM: Corsair CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 4x4GB - *116.7%* (Dominators 2133)
> MBD: Asus RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION
> 
> Cpu is just the stock turbo 3.9Ghz and I up'd the gpu & ram +100mhz. Also the SSD score is obviously for two HDD's in raid 0, not SSd's.
> 
> Guess it's time to sell the old trusty Bloddrage.


I ment to quote this when I posted that userbenchmark stuff


----------



## srialmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> Test version 0701


When was the last time you downloaded it? The OP for that updated it this past June for both the normal and NVME Test versions.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> When was the last time you downloaded it? The OP for that updated it this past June for both the normal and NVME Test versions.


Oh right lol if you guys have updated links lemme update the OP lol.


----------



## srialmaster

Here's the link from ROG(https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download):

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Amy65Cmu51iJz0X0q0KiAuq1tN45


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> When was the last time you downloaded it? The OP for that updated it this past June for both the normal and NVME Test versions.


Last week when my 960 pro came


----------



## srialmaster

I am good now. I used another usb that was empty and placed the NVME BIOS on there and it worked like a champ. It must not like to have other files or a bootable drive with the BIOS in the base of the drive.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> I am good now. I used another usb that was empty and placed the NVME BIOS on there and it worked like a champ. It must not like to have other files or a bootable drive with the BIOS in the base of the drive.


Good . I thought it was sumthin simples


----------



## LunaP

Anyone been able to update to creators update w/ their board? No matter what I get the eternal black screen of death, been this way for the past few months, been trying anything new that comes up. Windows club is a bust the only suggestion is formatting, which I've done.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I Installed creators a week after it came out. Seemed it went ok.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> I Installed creators a week after it came out. Seemed it went ok.


Blah,

Guess I'm stuck w/ 1607 till next year then.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Anyone been able to update to creators update w/ their board? No matter what I get the eternal black screen of death, been this way for the past few months, been trying anything new that comes up. Windows club is a bust the only suggestion is formatting, which I've done.


Yeah I did and it borked my Origin games drive ( I only keep one game (BF1) from Origin now and its on a nvme ) and a few other things .

I'm not gonna bother runs well already


----------



## bee144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Blah,
> 
> Guess I'm stuck w/ 1607 till next year then.


Fall creators update is coming out in a few weeks. Maybe try it?

I've had zero issues upgrading my extreme IV and my R4BE to creators update. Sounds like an issue specific to your setup.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Anyone been able to update to creators update w/ their board? No matter what I get the eternal black screen of death, been this way for the past few months, been trying anything new that comes up. Windows club is a bust the only suggestion is formatting, which I've done.


I also got tired of waiting and manually installed it. It has run fine with almost no hitches since then. By almost no hitches I had these occasional system shut downs that happened for no apparent reason. But since the last update those seem to have gone away......... sitting here waiting for it to prove me wrong.......lol. Whew all seems to be ok!

Have you tried resetting any OC you have to default then doing the update? I know in the past there have been some issues with Windows 10 and certain OC values. If you have an OC that may be what you are facing.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I also got tired of waiting and manually installed it. It has run fine with almost no hitches since then. By almost no hitches I had these occasional system shut downs that happened for no apparent reason. But since the last update those seem to have gone away......... sitting here waiting for it to prove me wrong.......lol. Whew all seems to be ok!
> 
> Have you tried resetting any OC you have to default then doing the update? I know in the past there have been some issues with Windows 10 and certain OC values. If you have an OC that may be what you are facing.



Reset OC
Swapped BIOS (2ndary and went to latest on it)
Disabled all startup items
Uninstalled AV
Disabled all non windows services
Ran all DISM health commands
Chkdsk
SFC
Installed updates manually till 1703 was the only one left, ran it by itself, just refuses to do anything.
This is a 3 month old fresh install with just steam, and my art programs.

The only thing this reminds me of is when windows 10 official release first came out and if you had multiple drives you had to disconnect all of them else it wouldn't know what to do and just black screen,though why windows would require that after an update is beyond me...

Nothing in the event logs either, Microsoft jsut says (even over the phone) that they don't know much about it and for people to just do a fresh install of windows since its easier than troubleshooting,going forward for major updates they recommed people just download and reinstall windows based on the newest ISO instead, great company.

I'm not reformatting again, just gonna wait for my x299 and pop w/e's newest on my 960 pro.


----------



## Laithan

Not that MS Telemetry











Spoiler: As fast and as stable as day one



Microsoft Windows [Version 6.1.7601]
Copyright (c) 2009 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.

C:\>systeminfo

Host Name:
OS Name: Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate
OS Version: 6.1.7601 Service Pack 1 Build 7601
OS Manufacturer: Microsoft Corporation
OS Configuration: Member Workstation
OS Build Type: Multiprocessor Free
Registered Owner:
Registered Organization:
Original Install Date: 11/8/2009, 12:36:07 AM
System Boot Time: 10/5/2017, 8:57:43 PM



O/S done right..


----------



## srialmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> Reset OC
> Swapped BIOS (2ndary and went to latest on it)
> Disabled all startup items
> Uninstalled AV
> Disabled all non windows services
> Ran all DISM health commands
> Chkdsk
> SFC
> Installed updates manually till 1703 was the only one left, ran it by itself, just refuses to do anything.
> This is a 3 month old fresh install with just steam, and my art programs.
> 
> The only thing this reminds me of is when windows 10 official release first came out and if you had multiple drives you had to disconnect all of them else it wouldn't know what to do and just black screen,though why windows would require that after an update is beyond me...
> 
> Nothing in the event logs either, Microsoft jsut says (even over the phone) that they don't know much about it and for people to just do a fresh install of windows since its easier than troubleshooting,going forward for major updates they recommed people just download and reinstall windows based on the newest ISO instead, great company.
> 
> I'm not reformatting again, just gonna wait for my x299 and pop w/e's newest on my 960 pro.


I just updated to the creator's update without a hitch. I would look into the memory speeds you're using (2400) and your grfx drivers. However, I did do the update on my 950 before I swapped it out with a 960. Also, don't use the normal windows update to perform the update. Download the microsoft tool that allows you to upgrade manually. I haven't ever had luck using the update feature to go to a new version. Also, google the windows version upgrade stuck at 99% and try the fixes mentioned with that. I think I recall when I had that issue on my laptop that some people mentioned having the same issue there as well with the black screen.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> I just updated to the creator's update without a hitch. I would look into the memory speeds you're using (2400) and your grfx drivers. However, I did do the update on my 950 before I swapped it out with a 960. Also, don't use the normal windows update to perform the update. Download the microsoft tool that allows you to upgrade manually. I haven't ever had luck using the update feature to go to a new version. Also, google the windows version upgrade stuck at 99% and try the fixes mentioned with that. I think I recall when I had that issue on my laptop that some people mentioned having the same issue there as well with the black screen.


Left that out as I mentioned in a an earlier post but , tried every graphics driver from 378->current for nvidia. Supposedly some had luck w/ certain drivers which I tried as well. Windows at least no longer attempts to install 376 anymore.
Used both manual and normal tools for installing no dice, just black screen w/ a cursor, ctrl+alt+del doesn't work nor does ctrl+shift+esc, not to mention since the update keyboard is no longer detected at post but shows up when in windows, I dunno what 10 does to UEFI bios' but blah.
It gets to 100% never stuck at 99% it installs it says, no errors in eventviewer either.
I don't have 2400 on RAM, and have already attempted with OC's off as per the "Reset OC"

A lot of people still get it but at the same time noone really has a fix other than downloading a new ISO, which I'm not gonna do till my next build, something shouldn't be this ******ed but all I can say is this update is finnicky as hell.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Anyone have a BE they're willing to part with? Swiftech killed mine and ASUS wants $350 *estimated* to be serviced. PM me.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Anyone have a BE they're willing to part with? Swiftech killed mine and ASUS wants $350 *estimated* to be serviced. PM me.


How did Swiftech kill your board?


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Anyone have a BE they're willing to part with? Swiftech killed mine and ASUS wants $350 *estimated* to be serviced. PM me.
> 
> 
> 
> How did Swiftech kill your board?
Click to expand...




http://imgur.com/g1uKZ


Something happened with this pump. Loop is purely distilled water with two drops of biocide. For any cleaning, I used white vinegar and flushed twice afterward with distilled water. Pump leaked all over my board and CPU. Both are dead.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/g1uKZ
> 
> 
> Something happened with this pump. Loop is purely distilled water with two drops of biocide. For any cleaning, I used white vinegar and flushed twice afterward with distilled water. Pump leaked all over my board and CPU. Both are dead.


That sucks. Any chance the pump was still under warranty?
I am running two Swiftech AIOs in my system right now. A H240-X for my CPU and a H140-X for my GPU. The only issues I have had with cooling isn't from the Swiftech units but from the CUE software that controls my fans. For some reason everytime there is an update it auto resets to silent mode for all fans. Which increase my temps by about 7 to 9 degrees.... So I have to put them in performance mode and all is good. There does not seem to be any real difference between the two modes when it comes to fan noise either. I used to have custom fan curves for all my fans but it resets that on every update also...lol.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/g1uKZ
> 
> 
> Something happened with this pump. Loop is purely distilled water with two drops of biocide. For any cleaning, I used white vinegar and flushed twice afterward with distilled water. Pump leaked all over my board and CPU. Both are dead.
> 
> 
> 
> That sucks. Any chance the pump was still under warranty?
> I am running two Swiftech AIOs in my system right now. A H240-X for my CPU and a H140-X for my GPU. The only issues I have had with cooling isn't from the Swiftech units but from the CUE software that controls my fans. For some reason everytime there is an update it auto resets to silent mode for all fans. Which increase my temps by about 7 to 9 degrees.... So I have to put them in performance mode and all is good. There does not seem to be any real difference between the two modes when it comes to fan noise either. I used to have custom fan curves for all my fans but it resets that on every update also...lol.
Click to expand...

After two months of back and forth, I finally got the VP of sales to send me a new pump. It should be here next week. No luck on getting a new board or CPU though. I already bought a 4960X to replace the 3930k. Luckily I still have my old ASRock Extreme 6 for a backup.

I didn't even know Swiftech had their own software, not that I would really use it, all of my fans are PWM and set to only kick up once the sensors detect a certain temperature.


----------



## srialmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Left that out as I mentioned in a an earlier post but , tried every graphics driver from 378->current for nvidia. Supposedly some had luck w/ certain drivers which I tried as well. Windows at least no longer attempts to install 376 anymore.
> Used both manual and normal tools for installing no dice, just black screen w/ a cursor, ctrl+alt+del doesn't work nor does ctrl+shift+esc, not to mention since the update keyboard is no longer detected at post but shows up when in windows, I dunno what 10 does to UEFI bios' but blah.
> It gets to 100% never stuck at 99% it installs it says, no errors in eventviewer either.
> I don't have 2400 on RAM, and have already attempted with OC's off as per the "Reset OC"
> 
> A lot of people still get it but at the same time noone really has a fix other than downloading a new ISO, which I'm not gonna do till my next build, something shouldn't be this ******ed but all I can say is this update is finnicky as hell.


Actually, now that you've reminded me, I woke up one morning last year to my PC having the same issue. The result was a patch that Microsoft had pushed. Also, restoring to a previous restore point would fail and I had to reimage. It was annoying, but I have extra HHDs. So, I just booted off of an USB version of Hirens Restored and moved what files I needed backed up to my extra drives.

***I will recommend to anyone who has spare drives to install Macrium Reflect free version***

I formatted my Samsung 950 Pro and installed Win 10 again. I was up 100% in 2hrs with Reflect installed. Later, down the road, I had a similar issue and booted off of a Sergei USB and restored my OS to the last backup from Reflect and I was back to normal.

In your case, I would actually open the tool to uninstall microsoft updates and remove all of them. Use the microsoft upgrade tool which will give you updates needed for the upgrade and see if this works. Most likely at this point you have a corrupted update installed and this is hanging your system.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> After two months of back and forth, I finally got the VP of sales to send me a new pump. It should be here next week. No luck on getting a new board or CPU though. I already bought a 4960X to replace the 3930k. Luckily I still have my old ASRock Extreme 6 for a backup.
> 
> I didn't even know Swiftech had their own software, not that I would really use it, all of my fans are PWM and set to only kick up once the sensors detect a certain temperature.


The Cue software is from Corsair not swiftech. I have the Grid+ V2 unit installed and the Cue software works through that.
Oops, sorry but I messed up. It is not the Cue software it is the CAM software by NZXT that works with their Grid+ V2 unit.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> After two months of back and forth, I finally got the VP of sales to send me a new pump. It should be here next week. No luck on getting a new board or CPU though. I already bought a 4960X to replace the 3930k. Luckily I still have my old ASRock Extreme 6 for a backup.
> 
> I didn't even know Swiftech had their own software, not that I would really use it, all of my fans are PWM and set to only kick up once the sensors detect a certain temperature.
> 
> 
> 
> The Cue software is from Corsair not swiftech. I have the Grid+ V2 unit installed and the Cue software works through that.
> Oops, sorry but I messed up. It is not the Cue software it is the CAM software by NZXT that works with their Grid+ V2 unit.
Click to expand...

Ah okay.


----------



## smrdel

Hey Guys

Finally getting around to installing my Samsung 960 PRO m.2 ssd as a boot drive on this board.

My current install looks like its corrupted to the point Win 10 wont boot properly - could probably do a repair but bit the bullet and decided to try the m.2 install.

I have installed the m.2 ssd onto a Sliverstone ECM20 PCI-E x4 card and installed the card in the last GPU slot on the board.Where have others installed the card ?

I assume this slot should be fine to use ?

I have followed HOMEPC's instructions and on page 1466 he has printed some screenshots - I do not see screenshot 3 i.e in particular Boot Option Priorities.

Its like the card/ssd are not recognised ?

I have made a USB Windows 10 install key and this runs but wont find a place to install i.e the m.2 ssd.

any help would be great - maybe i have missed something here


----------



## GenesisDM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Hey Guys
> 
> Finally getting around to installing my Samsung 960 PRO m.2 ssd as a boot drive on this board.
> 
> My current install looks like its corrupted to the point Win 10 wont boot properly - could probably do a repair but bit the bullet and decided to try the m.2 install.
> 
> I have installed the m.2 ssd onto a Sliverstone ECM20 PCI-E x4 card and installed the card in the last GPU slot on the board.Where have others installed the card ?
> 
> I assume this slot should be fine to use ?
> 
> I have followed HOMEPC's instructions and on page 1466 he has printed some screenshots - I do not see screenshot 3 i.e in particular Boot Option Priorities.
> 
> Its like the card/ssd are not recognised ?
> 
> I have made a USB Windows 10 install key and this runs but wont find a place to install i.e the m.2 ssd.
> 
> any help would be great - maybe i have missed something here


There is a question like this on the Asus forum, someone was kind enough to give this link - http://www.win-raid.com/t871f16-Guide-How-to-get-full-NVMe-support-for-all-Systems-with-an-AMI-UEFI-BIOS.html

Maybe you did miss something but give it a read just in case ^^ hope this helps


----------



## Madmaxneo

Warning: This is off topic to the thread, but I am not sure where else to post something like this.
Where is a good place to post something like this?

I approached my boss at Uhaul and asked if Uhaul would sponsor a build. He asked me to come up with a proposal so I need some help in this build proposal because I am not quite sure what would be a decent set up for something they may put on display at the front of the store.
My idea is build a system that has the same color scheme as a Uhaul truck. It would be all white (MB, case) with orange vinyl on the outside and some orange components and orange tubing (maybe UV with UV lights added to the build) inside.
But I am not quite sure what is good nowadays as far as a MB manufacturer and CPU combo, the case should be easy. I plan on using a Swiftech AIO and painting it white (not the fins though) if I watercool at all. I am not sure what they would do with this build so I want to make maintenance easy if I go the watercooling route). I plan on two options for this proposal, one for lower end graphics and the other for a bit higher (thus more expensive) performance.
I have a Cricut machine for cutting out the vinyl and access to plenty of vinyl for this project.

I am not going to be picky on this build as far as Intel, AMD, nvidia, etc....


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Warning: This is off topic to the thread, but I am not sure where else to post something like this.
> Where is a good place to post something like this?
> 
> I approached my boss at Uhaul and asked if Uhaul would sponsor a build. He asked me to come up with a proposal so I need some help in this build proposal because I am not quite sure what would be a decent set up for something they may put on display at the front of the store.
> My idea is build a system that has the same color scheme as a Uhaul truck. It would be all white (MB, case) with orange vinyl on the outside and some orange components and orange tubing (maybe UV with UV lights added to the build) inside.
> But I am not quite sure what is good nowadays as far as a MB manufacturer and CPU combo, the case should be easy. I plan on using a Swiftech AIO and painting it white (not the fins though) if I watercool at all. I am not sure what they would do with this build so I want to make maintenance easy if I go the watercooling route). I plan on two options for this proposal, one for lower end graphics and the other for a bit higher (thus more expensive) performance.
> I have a Cricut machine for cutting out the vinyl and access to plenty of vinyl for this project.
> 
> I am not going to be picky on this build as far as Intel, AMD, nvidia, etc....


http://www.overclock.net/f/18082/builds-case-mods ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/f/18082/builds-case-mods ?


Thanks. I passed up the case mods section because I thought it was only for case mods. I created a new topic in the thread you posted.


----------



## alancsalt

That is an ongoing debate on those pages. In the Case Mod competitions you'd inevitably gey the "builds" vs "mods" debate, but if it was strictly case mods there wouldn't be enough entries. Even with builds included number of entries would vary.

Anyway, the Forum heading has Builds in it... so should be safe..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Anyone have a BE they're willing to part with? Swiftech killed mine and ASUS wants $350 *estimated* to be serviced. PM me.
> 
> 
> 
> How did Swiftech kill your board?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/g1uKZ
> 
> 
> Something happened with this pump. Loop is purely distilled water with two drops of biocide. For any cleaning, I used white vinegar and flushed twice afterward with distilled water. Pump leaked all over my board and CPU. Both are dead.
Click to expand...

While that sucks and i am sorry, Swiftech did not kill anything, you had a leak. It sucks.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> Anyone have a BE they're willing to part with? Swiftech killed mine and ASUS wants $350 *estimated* to be serviced. PM me.
> 
> 
> 
> How did Swiftech kill your board?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/g1uKZ
> 
> 
> Something happened with this pump. Loop is purely distilled water with two drops of biocide. For any cleaning, I used white vinegar and flushed twice afterward with distilled water. Pump leaked all over my board and CPU. Both are dead.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> While that sucks and i am sorry, Swiftech did not kill anything, you had a leak. It sucks.
Click to expand...

While I would normally agree, the only signs of water were coming from the pump, therefore it would be their fault for failure under normal use. Anyways, I've long gotten over my board and CPU being dead. They replaced the pump and that's all I could ask for.


----------



## Mega Man

Let me correct you, you had a leak from the pump. Leaks happen, in both normal and abnormal use. You act like they came to your computer and killed it with a knife. Leaks are a risk you accept when you start this hobby


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Let me correct you, you had a leak from the pump. Leaks happen, in both normal and abnormal use. You act like they came to your computer and killed it with a knife. Leaks are a risk you accept when you start this hobby


We can go back and forth for hours on a debate like this, so I'll wrap it up here. I don't believe anyone should buy something expecting a failure in a short period of time and that when such issues like this arise, the company in question, should take reasonable responsibility.


----------



## Mega Man

Not when you run an acid through something not designed for it.

While mild vinegar is still an acid


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigkahuna360*
> 
> We can go back and forth for hours on a debate like this, so I'll wrap it up here. I don't believe anyone should buy something expecting a failure in a short period of time and that when such issues like this arise, the company in question, should take reasonable responsibility.


If it was under warranty there would be no reason for them not to replace it. Glad to see you at least got a new pump out of it.


----------



## smrdel

Need help big time with this - just can't seem to be able to select the new drive as a boot drive. As HOMEPC mentions I have borked it from page 1466

I am pretty sure I have flashed Bios correctly to 0801 although I used a USB 3.0 stick as opposed to USB 2.0 stick you guys have been talking about in recent posts.

The drive and m.2 adaptor card works as I reinstalled WIn 10 on normal SSD to confirm this quickly.

I tried installing windows on the m.2 ssd which it seemed to do as I selected that drive when it cam up to install win 10 but when came to boot off it no go ?

Any help would be appreciated


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Need help big time with this - just can't seem to be able to select the new drive as a boot drive. As HOMEPC mentions I have borked it from page 1466
> 
> I am pretty sure I have flashed Bios correctly to 0801 although I used a USB 3.0 stick as opposed to USB 2.0 stick you guys have been talking about in recent posts.
> 
> The drive and m.2 adaptor card works as I reinstalled WIn 10 on normal SSD to confirm this quickly.
> 
> I tried installing windows on the m.2 ssd which it seemed to do as I selected that drive when it cam up to install win 10 but when came to boot off it no go ?
> 
> Any help would be appreciated


Did you install the 0801 bios from the Asus support site for this board? If so, that bios does not work with nvme. You need the special modded bios that supports nvme. I would post a link but I am unable to locate the site right now. It is late and past my bedtime...lol


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Did you install the 0801 bios from the Asus support site for this board? If so, that bios does not work with nvme. You need the special modded bios that supports nvme. I would post a link but I am unable to locate the site right now. It is late and past my bedtime...lol


I am pretty sure I grabbed the modded one - HOMEPC helped me out with this including links - wondering is it possible that the BIOS did not flash properly even though it says 0801 ? Maybe I'd flash with wrong update









Does it matter if it's flashed with USB 3 stick or USB 2 stick ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> I am pretty sure I grabbed the modded one - HOMEPC helped me out with this including links - wondering is it possible that the BIOS did not flash properly even though it says 0801 ? Maybe I'd flash with wrong update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it matter if it's flashed with USB 3 stick or USB 2 stick ?


I don't really think it matters if you used a USB 3.0 or 2.0 stick, especially since everything else seems to work fine.
Now I myself do not have a NVME drive just yet but I might be able to help a little with some troubleshooting until someone else with more experience chimes in.
Can you see the drive and open it when you boot into windows normally?
If so:
Did you go into the bios and enable the NVME drive in there? I believe there is an option to enable it as a boot drive.
If not: double check all your connections and especially the power connection. I would also check to ensure the NVME is enabled in your bios.


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I don't really think it matters if you used a USB 3.0 or 2.0 stick, especially since everything else seems to work fine.
> Now I myself do not have a NVME drive just yet but I might be able to help a little with some troubleshooting until someone else with more experience chimes in.
> Can you see the drive and open it when you boot into windows normally?
> If so:
> Did you go into the bios and enable the NVME drive in there? I believe there is an option to enable it as a boot drive.
> If not: double check all your connections and especially the power connection. I would also check to ensure the NVME is enabled in your bios.


I wasn't sure if the adaptor card was working so did a quick win 10 install on a non m.2 ssd and after formatting it it all worked fine.

I followed HOMEPC's screens on page 1466 which I believe enable NVME but I can't seem to select the drive I.e it doesn't show.

There was a link to another web page a few pages back which changes settings in bios in a different way to what HOMEPC mentioned.

I did manage to install windows on the m.2 drive it just won't boot.

I think somethings not quite right with the BIOS flas


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> I wasn't sure if the adaptor card was working so did a quick win 10 install on a non m.2 ssd and after formatting it it all worked fine.
> 
> I followed HOMEPC's screens on page 1466 which I believe enable NVME but I can't seem to select the drive I.e it doesn't show.
> 
> There was a link to another web page a few pages back which changes settings in bios in a different way to what HOMEPC mentioned.
> 
> I did manage to install windows on the m.2 drive it just won't boot.
> 
> I think somethings not quite right with the BIOS flas


I will post AGAIN screeners of what the boot screen looks like .

Edit





If it don't look like this you haven't flashed the right bios or did it properly









Post a couple of screenshots of your boot pages


----------



## srialmaster

We just covered this not long ago. Also, try the 0701 BIOS. I just reposted the link about 15-20 comments ago. You need a USB 2.0. Make sure you format it first and copy the modded BIOS onto it. Also, I am using a PCI-E 4x adapter as well. Mine is in the first slot after my 2x slot 1080 and runs perfectly. Also, if you're not running the modded BIOS, it won't show up in boot options. The 950 will, the 960 will NOT. I have both of these btw.


----------



## smrdel

Ok here we go

Thnx guys for responses

@HOMECINEMA-PC - I have all the options as per your screens - I only cant seem to select my m.2 drive as boot drive in that section on screenshot 3.Also on first screenshot you missed the first 2 options there above USB support -think one was fast boot which i have enabled and cant remember next one.

I am starting to think I have done something wrong with flashing bios - here is a screenshot of what I have which I thought shows I had flashed to 0801 successfully?



@ srialmaster - I did the flash with a USB 3.0 stick which is all i have - so maybe get a USB 2.0 stick and reflash ?

I am pretty sure I grabbed the correct modded BIOS from links provided earlier.

So confirming - I need to flash with USB 2.0 stick - I did ask this question a few posts ago ?

On a seperate note is it possible to flash back to older BIOS's i.e 0701 ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Ok here we go
> 
> Thnx guys for responses
> 
> @HOMECINEMA-PC - I have all the options as per your screens - I only cant seem to select my m.2 drive as boot drive in that section on screenshot 3.Also on first screenshot you missed the first 2 options there above USB support -think one was fast boot which i have enabled and cant remember next one.
> 
> I am starting to think I have done something wrong with flashing bios - here is a screenshot of what I have which I thought shows I had flashed to 0801 successfully?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ srialmaster - I did the flash with a USB 3.0 stick which is all i have - so maybe get a USB 2.0 stick and reflash ?
> 
> I am pretty sure I grabbed the correct modded BIOS from links provided earlier.
> 
> So confirming - I need to flash with USB 2.0 stick - I did ask this question a few posts ago ?
> 
> On a seperate note is it possible to flash back to older BIOS's i.e 0701 ?


He needs the screen shot of your boot screen, not the screen in the pic. You can also take a screen shot in the bios and not have to use your phone to do that. I believe you do this using the F12 key.


----------



## smrdel

Boot screen ?

My boot screen only shows the Asus ROG logo ?

Then the enter the BIOS keys flash down the bottom then head to windows if installed ?

If you can do this from BIOS where is the screen shot stored ?


----------



## alancsalt

Boot Screen in the bios.

The one like this:



I would assume. (like the last one in HC-PC's post above) ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> If it don't look like this you haven't flashed the right bios or did it properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post a couple of screenshots of your boot pages


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Boot screen ?
> 
> My boot screen only shows the Asus ROG logo ?
> 
> Then the enter the BIOS keys flash down the bottom then head to windows if installed ?
> 
> If you can do this from BIOS where is the screen shot stored ?


The boot screen is the last image that @HOMECINEMA-PC posted above. It should be the last tab in your BIOS...... I quoted the post with the image above..... I hope it helps....


----------



## smrdel

Ok rgr

Well don't need screenshot for that one shows nothing !


----------



## srialmaster

Take a freshly formatted USB 2.0 flash drive and pop the BIOS on it. Turn the PC off and put it in the top left USB port on your rear I/O panel. Hold down the ROG connect button until it starts flashing. If it flashes for more than 10 secs, then it is working. If it doesn't, then it failed.

The BIOS is here:
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download

Make sure you grab the NVME Testing Folder > Rampage IV Extreme Black Edition Folder > 0701 Folder > R4BE.CAP file


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> Take a freshly formatted USB 2.0 flash drive and pop the BIOS on it. Turn the PC off and put it in the top left USB port on your rear I/O panel. Hold down the ROG connect button until it starts flashing. If it flashes for more than 10 secs, then it is working. If it doesn't, then it failed.
> 
> The BIOS is here:
> https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?48001-R4E-BIOS-4804-MODDED-EFI-Intel-13-1-0-2126-Download
> 
> Make sure you grab the NVME Testing Folder > Rampage IV Extreme Black Edition Folder > 0701 Folder > R4BE.CAP file


Had to go buy a USB 2.0 stick - will make sure I grab the files in the links and try to flash again.

Have to Format in FAT32 ?

Is there anyway to confirm it's been done correctly either in BIOS or in Windows ?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> Had to go buy a USB 2.0 stick - will make sure I grab the files in the links and try to flash again.
> 
> Have to Format in FAT32 ?
> 
> Is there anyway to confirm it's been done correctly either in BIOS or in Windows ?




BIOS INFOMATION at the top line tells you









Yes , Fat32









And in the bioses boot page . That's if you flashed the right bios . 701 will work too


----------



## srialmaster

Like I mentioned before, the flashing will last more than 10 seconds. Also, since you're currently running the 0801, you'll know you succeeded by being at 0701. Basically, once the USB has been FAT32 formatted and the R4BE.CAB dropped on it, turn off the PC and hold down the ROG Connect button and it will flash for a couple of minutes. Make sure it lasts for more than 10seconds and then come back after a couple of more. Your BIOS will reset to the defaults and you'll be able to see that you're at 0701. Make sure the ROG Connect isn't flashing anymore before turning on.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

I had similar troubles trying to install nvme as boot drive. What worked for me was to have secure boot compatibility mode set to disable. Once you get it to show up as pata drive you should be good to go.
Also what adapter are you using. i had success with the Asus Hyper M.2 PCIe X4 and and the alpha cool one.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I've had some recent issues with my system. I fixed most of them, possibly all of them.
Some of this is basic troubleshooting but the last thing is something that I am still not sure worked. Note that I have my 4930k Ocd to 4.4ghz all the time.
My adventures with my build...lol.
FIrst I noticed odd slightly higher than normal temps on both my CPU and GPU, both are watercooled but on separate loops. Upon investigation I discovered that a recent update to my CAM software reset all my settings, so I changed those settings and it helped a little but my temps still seemed a little high.

I recently downloaded Mass Effect Andromeda via the Vault program at Origin. I started playing it and immediately had problems with crashing and freezing the game. Upon further investigation I discovered that CAM had reinitialized the overlay (which causes issues with many of my games) and had to turn it off. Everything ran fine. After running the game for about an hour I noticed my temps seemed about 10 deg higher than what they should be on both my CPU and GPU. At first I thought it might be because the ambient temp in the room was slightly higher than normal. But then when not playing it took much longer than normal for those temps to go back down, they did but still about 10 deg higher than normal idle. I eventually opened up my PC and realized one of my Helix fans for my Swiftech AIO had died, so it was running on only one fan. I replaced that and temps for both my CPU and GPU are back to normal temps. I can only assume the extra ambient heat from my CPU inside the case caused my GPU temps to also go up.

Then I started having another issue with running Mass Effect Andromeda. After playing for just about an hour I would get a bsod.... After the second time it happened I went in and lowered my OC to 4.2 ghz. I am not sure if this helped yet because I haven't been able to play a game yet.

Does anyone know of any issues like the last one with Mass Effect Andromeda?

If it is the OC then is there a way to possibly make it more stable when playing the game?

If it is not the OC then what could it be? I currently have no OC on my GPU (GTX 1070 SC ACX Black ed watercooled).

Thanks in advance!


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> I had similar troubles trying to install nvme as boot drive. What worked for me was to have secure boot compatibility mode set to disable. Once you get it to show up as pata drive you should be good to go.
> Also what adapter are you using. i had success with the Asus Hyper M.2 PCIe X4 and and the alpha cool one.[/quo
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> I had similar troubles trying to install nvme as boot drive. What worked for me was to have secure boot compatibility mode set to disable. Once you get it to show up as pata drive you should be good to go.
> Also what adapter are you using. i had success with the Asus Hyper M.2 PCIe X4 and and the alpha cool one.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Silverstone EM20 adaptor - I asked the question earlier if this case d was ok to use ?
Click to expand...


----------



## Rangerscott

Got a question. Im a raid 0 guy and enjoy it. Got two new firecudas 2tb and a 128gb crucial ssd.

Problem is theres only 2 intel 6gbs sata ports and from what Ive read the asmedia 6gbs ports arent great.

So if I was wanting to put the OS on the ssd and games on the raid, how would you connect the 3 drives or should I just stick with the raid 0? Ive been fine without ssd's this far.

4 - 3gbs intel ports
2 - 6gbs intel ports
4 - 6gbs asmedia ports


----------



## srialmaster

This is the card I use and have had no issues with my 950 and 960 pro's:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYCQP38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sQt7zb2S4FB50


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> Like I mentioned before, the flashing will last more than 10 seconds. Also, since you're currently running the 0801, you'll know you succeeded by being at 0701. Basically, once the USB has been FAT32 formatted and the R4BE.CAB dropped on it, turn off the PC and hold down the ROG Connect button and it will flash for a couple of minutes. Make sure it lasts for more than 10seconds and then come back after a couple of more. Your BIOS will reset to the defaults and you'll be able to see that you're at 0701. Make sure the ROG Connect isn't flashing anymore before turning on.


hmmm I think I know where I may have stuffed this up - I think I have grabbed the wrong BIOS with the 0801 file i.e the non NVME TESTING Version..........dont recall heading into this folder when i grabbed the files originally


----------



## smrdel

Here is a screnshot of my boot page after flashing with correct BIOS.

Still not sure if this is correct ? The 840 SSD is what I installed to check if m.2 SSD worked with adpator card in Win 10 and on slot I installed.

Is it the PATA drive ? this wasnt appearing before ?

Do i still need to create a USB Win 10 boot drive to install Win 10 on drive ?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> I had similar troubles trying to install nvme as boot drive. What worked for me was to have secure boot compatibility mode set to disable. _Once you get it to show up as pata drive you should be good to go._
> Also what adapter are you using. i had success with the Asus Hyper M.2 PCIe X4 and and the alpha cool one.


^


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a screnshot of my boot page after flashing with correct BIOS.
> 
> Still not sure if this is correct ? The 840 SSD is what I installed to check if m.2 SSD worked with adpator card in Win 10 and on slot I installed.
> 
> Is it the PATA drive ? this wasnt appearing before ?
> 
> Do i still need to create a USB Win 10 boot drive to install Win 10 on drive ?


I had to fresh install of Windows 10 as cloning failed for me


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have a question regarding my post on the previous page here.

I forgot to mention in that previous post that I monitor my system on my second screen and my CPU was not being overtaxed and it was running steady at about 52 degrees right about the time of the bsod.

If my system is pretty stable at 4.4ghz (4930k) at anything else except for running Mass Effect Andromeda what can I do to help alleviate the issue? To reiterate I dropped my OC down to 4.2ghz and have had no issues since with the game.

Any suggestions as to what I can tweak to help get it stable for the Andromeda at 4.4ghz?

FYI there is no OC on my video card right and though it was running at 99% the whole time my temps never went above about 46 degrees on my GTX 1070.


----------



## smrdel

and finally here is my BOOT SCREEN SHOWING MY BLOODY M.2 DRIVE











Big thanks to all here that posted responses - much appreciated









Amazing that a simple thing like flashing it with a USB 2.0 over a USB 3.0 would be the difference


----------



## srialmaster

When I upgraded from my Samsung 950 to my 960, cloning worked just fine for me


----------



## Mega Man

You are either stable, or you are not, you can not be stable for everything but .....

It sounds like either a driver or game issue to me


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have a question regarding my post on the previous page here.
> 
> I forgot to mention in that previous post that I monitor my system on my second screen and my CPU was not being overtaxed and it was running steady at about 52 degrees right about the time of the bsod.
> 
> If my system is pretty stable at 4.4ghz (4930k) at anything else except for running Mass Effect Andromeda what can I do to help alleviate the issue? To reiterate I dropped my OC down to 4.2ghz and have had no issues since with the game.
> 
> Any suggestions as to what I can tweak to help get it stable for the Andromeda at 4.4ghz?
> 
> FYI there is no OC on my video card right and though it was running at 99% the whole time my temps never went above about 46 degrees on my GTX 1070.


What software did you use to check stability in the first place? You could try running various stress testing software like Prime95 and LinX and see if you can replicate the crash. If it crashes, not much to do other than try higher voltages, mainly Vcore, VTT or VCCSA.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> What software did you use to check stability in the first place? You could try running various stress testing software like Prime95 and LinX and see if you can replicate the crash. If it crashes, not much to do other than try higher voltages, mainly Vcore, VTT or VCCSA.


Mainly OCCT, AIDA64 Extreme, and the intel burn test. I did run prime95 for a little but I don't like it that much because I believe Prime95 was what caused my previous 4930 to eventually die. I have also run some excessive benchmarks from various programs like Firestrike, Heaven, Valley and a couple of others. My vcore is set at 1.3 volts but it reads .65 volts in both CPU-Z and OCCT. No one has ever been able to explain why it is so different and so compared to what I set it to. I forget what my VTT and VCCSA are set for, they may still be on stock for all I know.
I remember when trying to find a good daily OC that I had my Load Line Calibrations set to about 180% and the system would crash after about 20 mins in OCCT. I lowered one of them down to like 140% (not exactly sure on the numbers) and it passed every test I ran at it and it has run fine ever since.

If I get the chance this weekend I will try tweaking the VCCSA and see what that does. Is VCCSA the one that can help with gpu stability? My gpu is not OC'd right now but I have heard of people increasing a setting of the CPU to increase gpu stability when they are overclocked.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

So i bought a second 1680v2 and this one seems golden. I'm not sure what to do. Let me know should I push it. I am rock solid 4.6ghz @ 1.275 with llc hitting up to 1.296. I'm sorta afraid cause my last one accidentally fried it a little when I tried 4.7 and made a mistake and left voltage on auto and juiced my chip 1.545v and it can no longer reach a solid 4.5ghz @1.295v I can only get the old one stable @ 4.4ghz 1.265v. Anyway i just finished my tests and the new one is solid. Here is my CPUZ

https://valid.x86.fr/20b6g6

What are you thoughts should i push the oc button.


----------



## srialmaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> So i bought a second 1680v2 and this one seems golden. I'm not sure what to do. Let me know should I push it. I am rock solid 4.6ghz @ 1.275 with llc hitting up to 1.296. I'm sorta afraid cause my last one accidentally fried it a little when I tried 4.7 and made a mistake and left voltage on auto and juiced my chip 1.545v and it can no longer reach a solid 4.5ghz @1.295v I can only get the old one stable @ 4.4ghz 1.265v. Anyway i just finished my tests and the new one is solid. Here is my CPUZ
> 
> https://valid.x86.fr/20b6g6
> 
> What are you thoughts should i push the oc button.


I have a 1680v2 sitting on my desk at my office I keep meaning to install to replace my 1660v2. I guess when I get to installing it, I might be hitting you up to push it. It is a used one I got off of ebay for $650. Where did you get yours and how much did you pay?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Keep the 1680 v2 long term up to 1.3 - 1.35v max. I use 1.3v 24/7 for 4.5GHz. More voltage is fine for quick bench runs on good cooling, not over 1.5v though unless subzero.

Also, the ram divider @100bclk and 2400MHz has a write bug, so 2133 or 2666 is recommended.(IB-E issue, SB-E not affected) 2666 is tough @100bclk, so use 125 strap or possibly 166.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srialmaster*
> 
> I have a 1680v2 sitting on my desk at my office I keep meaning to install to replace my 1660v2. I guess when I get to installing it, I might be hitting you up to push it. It is a used one I got off of ebay for $650. Where did you get yours and how much did you pay?


$688 Used on ebay


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Keep the 1680 v2 long term up to 1.3 - 1.35v max. I use 1.3v 24/7 for 4.5GHz. More voltage is fine for quick bench runs on good cooling, not over 1.5v though unless subzero.
> 
> Also, the ram divider @100bclk and 2400MHz has a write bug, so 2133 or 2666 is recommended.(IB-E issue, SB-E not affected) 2666 is tough @100bclk, so use 125 strap or possibly 166.


I have settled on 4.63ghz @ 1.3v 128.6 bclk 2400mhz on mem. I haven't had any luck overclocking my mem but i haven't tried with this one yet so i'll give it ago in a few once i know i can rock with these settings.

I tried 4.7 not stable at all at 1.35 i can get semi stable but i will not push further as I'm scared I don't want to loose what I can do right now because i degraded my old one. I'll prob dumb it on ebay for like $500 and see if someone bites.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

OK I seem to be stable @ 4.65Ghz 1.3v
https://valid.x86.fr/3htrtd
I'm Gonna try and squeeze additional 25Mhz at same voltage.
I have been at this all day and night since i had to tear down my build to change cpu & gpu, (Damn Monoblock and Hardline Tubing, FTW3 = too many damn screws)
I will let you guys know the results


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Looking forward to those posted results









The cheapest one on ebay I found is $1000AU sent from Murica .

They have gone up . What a rip off









E

I can get 5960x for $700AU sent . Prolly get one for less too .

X99 anyone ??


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Looking forward to those posted results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cheapest one on ebay I found is $1000AU sent from Murica .
> 
> They have gone up . What a rip off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E
> 
> I can get 5960x for $700AU sent . Prolly get one for less too .
> 
> X99 anyone ??


Yep, forget about the 1680 v2 now. You have a nice 4960x for the x79. Think about going forward, that's the better option. x299, z370 or Threadripper.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Yep, forget about the 1680 v2 now. You have a nice 4960x for the x79. Think about going forward, that's the better option. x299, z370 or Threadripper.


Good morning mister









Yeah it always comes back to the fact that I have a real gud X chip .

But your right , its time to start looking at a DDR4 set up .

First hurdle is to get a gud 16 or 32GB (4x4) DDR4 kit .









E

Reality is I need a 8 tb HDD in my life before starting a DDR$ project ...........


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Good morning mister
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it always comes back to the fact that I have a real gud X chip .
> 
> But your right , its time to start looking at a DDR4 set up .
> 
> First hurdle is to get a gud 16 or 32GB (4x4) DDR4 kit .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E
> 
> Reality is I need a 8 tb HDD in my life before starting a DDR$ project ...........


One drive just for job resumes?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> One drive just for job resumes?


....and other docs too


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Well this is what I achieved

4.65 1.3v Pulls 1.312 Under Load

4.675 1.315v Pulls 1.328 Under Load

4.7 1.35 Pulls 1.376 Under Load

Stability testing was with OCCT 1 hour, Real Bench 5 Runs back to back, ETU 30mins. then I ran my normal benchmarks to see scores. This is my best time spy. https://www.3dmark.com/spy/2628476

I stopped at 4.7 because of voltage. I was playing it safe and tired of stability testing. If I had some exotic cooling I think I could push more but I'm satisfied. When it gets bitter cold here in Jersey I'll take my pc out on balcony and see what she does.

I'm done for now with hardware upgrades cause I only play games and convert Blue Rays for my media center with this rig. My second son was just born and I'm gonna be broke for awhile so I got few things in before he came.

I recently Purchased 2 1080ti FTW3 Elites and a new cosmos case. (I put one in my Hydro Copper Block the other day when I got the other 1680v2) soon I'll transfer everything in in a few weeks and be done for now. The only thing i'm missing is thunderbolt and i'm ok with that. I don't do anything that requires 10 plus cores. I don't think I'm going down that route just for giggles.

Oh I settled on 4.625Ghz @ 1.295v 128.6 bclk for daily use. I get my full 2400mhz on mem and temps are very manageable.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> ....and other docs too


The first Ultra 4K HDR Resume


----------



## Rangerscott

Need help guys. Finally got the invisible ssd figured out and instaalled win10 pro.

Im getting not connection with my ethernet port. Solid red and flashing orange. Wifi connected and shows strong signal but still internet doesnt work.

All drivers are installed. This isnt the first time running win10 with this motherboard.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rangerscott*
> 
> Need help guys. Finally got the invisible ssd figured out and instaalled win10 pro.
> 
> Im getting not connection with my ethernet port. Solid red and flashing orange. Wifi connected and shows strong signal but still internet doesnt work.
> 
> All drivers are installed. This isnt the first time running win10 with this motherboard.


If its flashing orange on the actual hardware, verify the cables good.


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> If its flashing orange on the actual hardware, verify the cables good.


I connected a new cable just to see if the cars got a hold of the current one. Same thing.

I'll reset the router (at my neighbors) when I get home. It worked fine plugged into my laptop so Im a bit confused why now the port woulfld do this.

With the fresh install the only things Ive done are disable windows search and superfetch so the ssd wouldnt be at 100% usage. I cant believe M$ still hasnt fixed the 100% disk usage yet.

I also turned off all windows firewalls and defenders.

Last time I just let win10 update itself and it installed all the drivers and everything worked. Strange that when I switched to an ssd this would happen.


----------



## Mega Man

We need far more info and screen shots to help


----------



## Rangerscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> We need far more info and screen shots to help


Will do when I get home.

Yup. Dont update win10. IExplore and some things are fudged.

Just installed firefox and its all good.

One thing thats showing up in "processes" and using up cpu is called "state repository service."



Anyone else have a problem with the bios menu being all messed up? I used to be able to just reset once and it would be fine. Now it takes several resets or power offs to get the bios to show up normal.

Got it. Im not a fan how they setup up the boot menu on this board.

Heres two 2tb Firecudas in raid 0. Not too happy with the seq read speed.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Home, your 2666mhz sticks showed up on Ebay in your country:

*https://www.ebay.com/itm/16GB-4x4GB-Corsair-Dominator-DDR3-2666Mhz-RAM-inc-Corsair-Lighting-Bars/152775818129?hash=item239225fb91:g:Xd8AAOSwoVNZ~9x-*

Extra sticks or just add for 32gb?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Home, your 2666mhz sticks showed up on Ebay in your country:
> 
> *https://www.ebay.com/itm/16GB-4x4GB-Corsair-Dominator-DDR3-2666Mhz-RAM-inc-Corsair-Lighting-Bars/152775818129?hash=item239225fb91:g:Xd8AAOSwoVNZ~9x-*
> 
> Extra sticks or just add for 32gb?


On to it









Ed



Man I didn't think another set would turn up so cheap . What a fluke !


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

nice did you buy them?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> nice did you buy them?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Awesome man!


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

you know i was about to snatch some of that ram up


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> you know i was about to snatch some of that ram up


Hes Still got 4x8 of c12 2666 ddr 3 left .......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Awesome man!


+ Rep for that . Should have them here tomorrow when I get back from work .


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

it was gone by the time you snatched it up he had 32gb and 16gb


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3LLsREAPER911*
> 
> it was gone by the time you snatched it up he had 32gb and 16gb


If you want to spend the money, this set is better:

*https://www.ebay.com/itm/G-Skill-DDR3-32Gb-4x8-Gb-Matched-Pc3-21300-Trident-X-MUST-SEE/162732521058?hash=item25e39d3662:g:adsAAOSwImRYHc19*


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> If you want to spend the money, this set is better:
> 
> *https://www.ebay.com/itm/G-Skill-DDR3-32Gb-4x8-Gb-Matched-Pc3-21300-Trident-X-MUST-SEE/162732521058?hash=item25e39d3662:g:adsAAOSwImRYHc19*


Thanks for the info. I don't really like that much red in my builds that close to mb anymore. (Asus killed that for me with so much red and black) I picked up this Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB DDR3 4GBx4 W/ RGB Fans Airflow II Intel XMP
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB DDR3 4GBx4 W/ RGB Fans Airflow II Intel XMP
Item price $200.00 its 2666 cl12 from ebay
Maybe I would be able to find another set later on down the road to give me 32gb.


----------



## Kimir

You can remove the red part of the heat-spreader, I have them removed on my rig (just some tiny screw to remove of the side, then slide it).


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Orright finally get those Dom plats I got from ebay



So far I have [email protected]@100strap . Doesn't like 2666 xmp .


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Starting to get somewhere with the ram settings @2400 . Its possible now I might get in to 2666 at 125 strap with 32gb ?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Always best to use 4x8gb over 8x4gb for memory overclocks. Less sticks oc better over more.

Hope you get your target 2666MHz though. I wish you luck!


----------



## LunaP

I remember there being a bug w/ IBE that wouldn't work w/ 2400 and 2666 on 100 block though 2133 works fine as well as 1866. Someone in here had more information on it though.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I remember there being a bug w/ IBE that wouldn't work w/ 2400 and 2666 on 100 block though 2133 works fine as well as 1866. Someone in here had more information on it though.


The 2400 Dram speed don't like the extra sticks with the 8 dimms populated I'm finding . Doesn't mind 2133 tho so far . I havent even really played with 125 strap much yet but I'm thinking similar results


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> The 2400 Dram speed don't like the extra sticks with the 8 dimms populated I'm finding . Doesn't mind 2133 tho so far . I havent even really played with 125 strap much yet but I'm thinking similar results


Yeah my 2400's run fine at 2133 I could probably pop 2666 though if I tried, but I'm running 64gb


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah my 2400's run fine at 2133 I could probably pop 2666 though if I tried, but I'm running 64gb


I rekon I might have to go to stock clocks or lower to get 2666 across these 8 dims .

Its running fine as is so I just will leave it at [email protected]@1.38vc


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> If you want to spend the money, this set is better:
> 
> *https://www.ebay.com/itm/G-Skill-DDR3-32Gb-4x8-Gb-Matched-Pc3-21300-Trident-X-MUST-SEE/162732521058?hash=item25e39d3662:g:adsAAOSwImRYHc19*


So I got my Dominator Platinum 2666Mhz cl12 memory yesterday and it doesn't work. I can boot with everything set to auto. But anything else is terrible. XMP 266Mhz nope, 2400Mhz nope, 2133Mhz nope not even 1866Mhz read and write speeds are don't even come close to my 2400 Black Mamba's, (I will get my money back so I'm not worried) So I bought these bad boys this morning and I'm gonna figure out what to do about the red color. I was thinking that I have the ek ram water-cooling kit sitting around and maybe i can change heat spreaders to a nice black color. Hopefully I don't have to water cool them with the ek heat spreader. I have to order water blocks for my 2 1080ti ftw3 elites. I don't know what I'm going to do with my hydro copper water block I guess I'll let it go for cheap maybe like $100.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

I just got these bad boys in. I'm about see what they can do.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

You don't like the red eh?


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> You don't like the red eh?


the other one i bought didn't work. But I will pain heat spreader to silver and take the sticker off


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

wow don't drink and type. lol


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Seen someone do that. It looked great.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

So after much testing, This new memory requires higher vcore to maintain stability.

With the new memory @ 4.6ghz My 1680 v2 needs 1.36v for stability @ 2728mhz on memory 127.9 bus speed

With the old memory I could do 4.6ghz @1.3v with 2400Mhz on memory 128.6 bus speed

Is it normal to require that much more voltage for stability with higher clocked memory?

Any insight would be appreciated


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Yes that's normal, more ram and speed puts a bigger load on the cpu.


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

Any body want to buy some trident z's LOL


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

I guess i have to choose 1.36 seems a little to high for me @ 4.6 but not sure if i want to drop down to 4.5 something for daily use. That 100Mhz makes my pc feel a little snappier


----------



## H3LLsREAPER911

I wish mem speed could be independently tuned from base clock It would make life so much easier.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

*Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE Drivers and BIOS updated 11/26/17*

*Updated Drivers with:*
-Asmedia_SATA6G_3.2.3.0
-Asmedia_USB3: USE the USB drivers that come with Windows 10 (Asmedia drivers are still buggy)
-Broadcom_WLAN_7.35.351.0 (manual install required)
-Intel_Chipset_10.1.2.86
-Intel_LAN_22.9
-Intel_RSTe_5.3.0.1413
-Realtek_HDAudio_8308

-Intel MEI 8.1.70.1590 ROM (Look in RIVBE Flashback BIOS folder)

*Updated BIOS with:*
-OROM Intel Boot Agent GE - 1.5.62
-EFI Intel PRO/1000 UNDI - 6.6.04

*Updated OEM Info:*
-Support hours updated to reflect new Asus Component Product Support hours.
Monday - Friday, 24 Hours
Saturday - Sunday, 6:00AM - 5:00PM PST
Run the ASUS registry file (found in the ASUS OEM INFO folder) again to update

Download the latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver/BIOS pack HERE
_MD5_: 9022555b712eb73a2d744b75baabb0ad

https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?72562-Windows-10-WHQL-RIVBE-driver-pack


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Will Did this make my system run any better than it is already ?

Result =

Nup , no , nill , zip , nadda , nuthin , zero .......


----------



## alancsalt

You get used to that.


----------



## dboythagr8

Long time, no post.

I'm still rocking this board, and using AI Suite 3 to control the fans that are plugged directly into the motherboard. Is there a better, newer software suite I can use to do this?


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am in the process of updating to the Fall Creators update. It is at 91% installed and will be restarting soon.

Anyone have any serious issues with this update yet?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am in the process of updating to the Fall Creators update.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*


So far so good. Everything seems to be working the same as it was before.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So far so good. Everything seems to be working the same as it was before.


Did the same as you last nite and all is gud









Hell I even had it at 4.8 too but the vcore is too ridiculous

Ed

The first time I did it though over a year ago it borked my games drive and a few other things


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Did the same as you last nite and all is gud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hell I even had it at 4.8 too but the vcore is too ridiculous
> 
> Ed
> 
> The first time I did it though over a year ago it borked my games drive and a few other things


Yeah all is gud here also... So far I have never really had any real problems with Windows 1o. I still have an odd issue where my USB keyboard does not work in the BIOS but my mouse does. In fact I have some odd issues with my USB ports every so often as it is. But I don't think it has anything to do with Windows 10.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah all is gud here also... So far I have never really had any real problems with Windows 1o. I still have an odd issue where my USB keyboard does not work in the BIOS but my mouse does. In fact I have some odd issues with my USB ports every so often as it is. But I don't think it has anything to do with Windows 10.


Don't forget to disable full screen optimization on games now, most annoying feature added.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Don't forget to disable full screen optimization on games now, most annoying feature added.


So from what I read is that you have to disable it for every game by going into the settings for each exe. Is there a better way to do this?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So from what I read is that you have to disable it for every game by going into the settings for each exe. Is there a better way to do this?


Sadly no, M$ shafted us yet again


----------



## Laithan

Staying on Windows 7 until M$ flies the black coats down to pry it from my dead hands


----------



## LunaP

Actually n/m there might be a fix
Quote:


> If you want to disable this for all games, it is possible to do that either in the Windows settings or via the Game Bar (accessible by pressing Win+G while a game is running).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Staying on Windows 7 until M$ flies the black coats down to pry it from my dead hands


Don't worry once you finally switch you'll begin to question why you didn't do it sooner lol, the 7 mentality is slowing dying which is nice, systems just way to outdated anymore, unless you have good underground 3rd party access for other stuff (3rd party drivers etc )

Personally I can't stand using 7 anymore but I completely understand personal pref and safety nets.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sadly no, M$ shafted us yet again


I read some stuff on it but couldn't really get a good idea of what full screen optimization does to some games. Or is it all games?
Can you explain or post a link for me?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I read some stuff on it but couldn't really get a good idea of what full screen optimization does to some games. Or is it all games?
> Can you explain or post a link for me?




__
https://www.reddit.com/r/645ukf/windows_10_cu_fullscreen_optimizations/

Basically disabling the option in game mode/game bar ( which most of us have the game bar off by default, supposedly theres a setting ( I'm about to test this ) in the game bar that will disable this globally on the PC )


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

Please don't crucify me for this noob question, but as far as mounting holes for the heatsinks go ... Is there a major difference between the Rampage IV and Rampage V

I see it is still easy to get Rampage V full cover blocks, but I was wondering if it would mount up correctly ... I know the CMOS battery might get in the way but that piece of plastic shroud could be trimmed away

I really want to finish my build now, but I just can't seem to find full blocks for the Rampage IV Black anymore


----------



## bee144

I tried this earlier this year. I have a R4BE and could only find Rampage 5 mono blocks.

I bought the 5 mono block and a dremel. I failed miserably. The level of detail needed to grind away the copper block and not dig into the water channel was too much. There's actually a lot of variance between the R4BE and the RE5

I wasted $350. I would suggest you not attempt this unless you are a master with a dremel.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bee144*
> 
> I tried this earlier this year. I have a R4BE and could only find Rampage 5 mono blocks.
> 
> I bought the 5 mono block and a dremel. I failed miserably. The level of detail needed to grind away the copper block and not dig into the water channel was too much. There's actually a lot of variance between the R4BE and the RE5
> 
> I wasted $350. I would suggest you not attempt this unless you are a master with a dremel.


Thanks so much for the information ...

I was looking at the Bitspower full cover block, but I didn't think there was such a massive difference


----------



## bee144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Thanks so much for the information ...
> 
> I was looking at the Bitspower full cover block, but I didn't think there was such a massive difference


That is one difference then. I used an EK REV Monoblock. I'm not sure about the bitspower blocks though

If you do buy the block, make sure you can return it. If it doesn't align properly, don't get smart like me and try to use a dremel as I needed to make at least 5 modifications to the EK version and I could barely get the first modification complete. It was a difficult project. I just ended up using a normal cpu block.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bee144*
> 
> That is one difference then. I used an EK REV Monoblock. I'm not sure about the bitspower blocks though
> 
> If you do buy the block, make sure you can return it. If it doesn't align properly, don't get smart like me and try to use a dremel as I needed to make at least 5 modifications to the EK version and I could barely get the first modification complete. It was a difficult project. I just ended up using a normal cpu block.


Sadly I would have to import from PPCs and with importing costs to my country, I would not be able to return it


----------



## smrdel

Hey all

I am having some issues with my USB ports on my board in recent week - its driving me insane.

Basically my USB mouse keeps dropping then reconnecting and it happens no matter which port I use on the board. It behaves for a time then goes ballistic . Changed mouse same issue. Seems to be ok with other USB devices.

Wondering if there has been any USB driver updates which maybe causing problems ?

USB Controller on Board on its way out ? I have 2 dodgy mouses ?

Any thoughts/ ideas

I


----------



## Laithan

I am having the same exact issue the past couple days.. wonder if it was an MS update.


----------



## alancsalt

There are settings that turn "unused" USB ports off to save power. Drove me nuts with my DAC some time ago.

Power Settings: Turn off the selective suspend setting.
Device Manager: USB Ports: Turn off: Allow this computer to turn off this device to save power option.
Device Manager: Human Interface Devices: USB Devices > Turned off: Allow this computer to turn off this device to save power option.


----------



## smrdel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> There are settings that turn "unused" USB ports off to save power. Drove me nuts with my DAC some time ago.
> 
> Power Settings: Turn off the selective suspend setting.
> Device Manager: USB Ports: Turn off: Allow this computer to turn off this device to save power option.
> Device Manager: Human Interface Devices: USB Devices > Turned off: Allow this computer to turn off this device to save power option.


Trying to find these options but cant see them ? Is this in Win 10 ?


----------



## alancsalt

https://www.google.com.au/search?source=hp&ei=FgA1WqXYB8a_0ATlkqLoAg&q=selective+suspend+setting+windows+10&oq=selective+suspend+setting&gs_l=psy-ab.1.2.0l3j0i22i30k1l7.2415.2415.0.9287.3.2.0.0.0.0.265.265.2-1.2.0....0...1c.2.64.psy-ab..1.1.264.0...259.PB0k2aTNGa8

https://www.google.com.au/search?ei=gAA1WtT1LsKw0gTM47O4Aw&q=Device+Manager%3A+USB+Allow+this+computer+to+turn+off+this+device+to+save+power+option+windows+10&oq=Device+Manager%3A+USB+Allow+this+computer+to+turn+off+this+device+to+save+power+option+windows+10&gs_l=psy-ab.12...52288.66161.0.70671.18.12.0.0.0.0.664.1396.2-1j0j1j1.3.0....0...1c.1j2.64.psy-ab..16.0.0....0.CZOVjIr7AHM


----------



## Laithan

Thanks for the suggestion. As for me, I had already disabled those power management settings but good advice







.

What changed for me recently to bring on this USB issue?

Well other than critical patches, not a real lot. I did end up building a sim racer and that has a USB 2.0 hub in play now. I've also been using another wireless keyboard/mouse and some other USB peripherals. I'm not using all the USB ports available but I was using quite a few of them. The past couple days when I would hear "duh ding, duh doo" (you know the USB plug in and remove sound) for no reason at all I didn't think much of it... until my mouse stopped working..I tried plugging the mouse into a different USB port and it seemed to work again. I didn't think much of it until it happened again.. This time I tried other ports, even the USB 3.0 ports.. mouse seemed dead... I thought I needed a new mouse







.. The connection would not even light up the LED on the mouse.. like I didn't even plug it in..

After some more fiddling I got the mouse working again and (knock on wood) this hasn't happened again.

(1) With my PC on and in windows, I removed all of the USB devices from the PC

(2) I shut down the PC (this is a key step because I did try just the mouse before I did this and it didn't work)

(3) Plug in just my keyboard and mouse and turn on my PC, boot into windows

This time it detected my mouse and keyboard just fine and they have both been working ever since I did that... I have even plugged some other peripherals in and they also work fine.

I wonder if the USB controller was just getting overloaded or something? Too much power draw possibly? It doesn't explain not working when I tried USB 3.0 also.. a bit strange.. I also find it strange that someone else has the exact same issue at the same time too..


----------



## Madmaxneo

@Laithan @smrdel I have had similar issues with this board and my USB ports, though I have never had a port shut down like that after the PC starts.
At first the issue was that none of my USB 2.0 devices would start up correctly in USB 3.0 ports, sometimes they wouldn't even start up at all. Then I was having issues where some of my USB ports had stopped working, even after a reboot. The last issue I had was where my USB keyboard and mouse didn't work in the bios. I was able to get the mouse to work by switching ports but could never get the keyboard to work (yes everything is set correctly in the bios).
After the last update I decided to try it again with a USB 3.0 port and see if there were any changes, and now my keyboard works just fine in the bios. I was on the WIndows 10 forum and someone mentioned there is an issue with some high end keyboards (I have a K95 RGB) not working in the bios when using windows 10. But oddly enough my mouse doesn't work in the bios...lol. I will probably just switch it to USB 3.0 port to see if that works now.

@Laithan If I turn all those USB power saving settings off how will it affect the power draw of the system? Do you think those settings have an effect in the bios? FYI, there is a discussion about how the Windows OS can affect the way things work in the bios (UEFI) and I am wondering if this could be the issue.

Right now I am having a weird issue where my PC freezes up at certain times in the evening. The only thing in event viewer I could find was several instances before the freeze of this error: *The protocol host process 18556 did not respond and is being forcibly terminated {filter host process 0}.* Where the host process number is different every time. I was told that has to do with a search indexing option for programs that offer PDF file functionality. So it seems unlikely that this could cause my PC to freeze like it does.
I was thinking this issue could be associated with something being power regulated by windows. The only thing I could find in the power settings that were still on was for my hard disk, but that was at like 10,000 minutes...lol, and so far the freezes happen at specific times at night.

I wonder if it could have anything to do with the USB power saving options in device manager.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I first ran memtest and OCCT and there were no issues with high temps in the low 60's.
I ran the IntelBurnTest at standard with no issues, then at high with no issues. Then I tried very high and subsequently maximum. In both of those the system would freeze every so often with the freezes lasting so long in maximum that I stopped the test as it would've taken all night, it took over 10 minutes to do the first cycle.

Does anyone know what the IntelBurnTest does that something like the base run for OCCT does not?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @Laithan If I turn all those USB power saving settings off how will it affect the power draw of the system? Do you think those settings have an effect in the bios? FYI, there is a discussion about how the Windows OS can affect the way things work in the bios (UEFI) and I am wondering if this could be the issue.


IMO it is 100% impossible for the installed O/S to have any impact on the BIOS at all unless we're talking about some kind of advanced malware that writes to NVRAM.

AFAIK, UBS ports don't draw any power at all unless something is plugged into them so I couldn't see how disabling power management could cause issues unless sleep/hibernate modes were used.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> IMO it is 100% impossible for the installed O/S to have any impact on the BIOS at all unless we're talking about some kind of advanced malware that writes to NVRAM.
> 
> AFAIK, UBS ports don't draw any power at all unless something is plugged into them so I couldn't see how disabling power management could cause issues unless sleep/hibernate modes were used.


I originally thought that the OS couldn't affect any functionality in the BIOS but apparently it does. I am not the only one who had an issue with USB keyboards not working in the bios after an update. It wasn't until after I installed the Fall Creators update to windows 10 that my USB keyboard now works in the bios.
FYI, I had also seen this mentioned in the Windows 10 help forums. A moderator had responded to a query about issues in someone's bios and said that WIndows does affect some things in the BIOS. I'm not really sure how this is possible but it seems many are saying it is....


----------



## LunaP

Random question but since I upgraded, was debating on selling my rampage R4BE w/ the 4960X and 64gb ram, if I were to do a full case w/ included waterblocks and all, any ideas what would be a safe range for selling ? I was gonna post locally since it'd be easier for people to see it.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Random question but since I upgraded, was debating on selling my rampage R4BE w/ the 4960X and 64gb ram, if I were to do a full case w/ included waterblocks and all, any ideas what would be a safe range for selling ? I was gonna post locally since it'd be easier for people to see it.


I'm not sure how to arrive at an estimate without specific parts, model #'s, condition, pictures etc. however I'd say that you have some methods you could try.

(1) Price all the similar components from all of the next generations (x99, x299) with the same cores so you can get an idea of what someone could buy new or used for the latest generation. Of course your price cannot be higher than next-gen "equivalents".

(2) Total up everything that you paid for all components and dive that in half. It may start you off in the ball park.

(3) Look up the lowest price of each component on eBay (don't include shipping or tax if applicable) and then come up with a "bundle" price which would be maybe 10%-20% lower than the cost of all the components if individually purchased (otherwise they could just order the same parts and built it themselves).

(4) Consider parting out the system.. You're likely to get more in the long-run if you sell each component individually. The RIVBE alone can fetch some nice prices on eBay as it is pretty rare at this point (may want to consider throwing it out for bid...)

Good luck!


----------



## Shadowarez

On eBay I seen board going anywhere from $680-1080 Amazon is crazy right now I'd be interested in more ram making my rive be a htpc. Off topic any idea how to use other ram slots? My 3rd slot is dead only runs in triple channel mode


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> On eBay I seen board going anywhere from $680-1080 Amazon is crazy right now I'd be interested in more ram making my rive be a htpc. Off topic any idea how to use other ram slots? My 3rd slot is dead only runs in triple channel mode


You already tried the alcohol tips/airblowing etc? Also try unplugging all power to the pc then holding the power button to discharge, that can sometimes fix issues like that, and I've had it to where certain dimm slots weren't responding due to a bad OC or something and that fixed it, actually was only a fe wmonths ago lol.


----------



## Shadowarez

Lol that's how I fixed one of my titans the stock Asus one needed a Tim change alcohol bath and cleaning oddly enough it's the eggs hybrid that failed and will not work without crashing the comp. Was thinking of changing out the cooler on stock for the hybrid but it's prob junk. I have tried alcohol on the 3rd dim slot and compressed air.

I'll try the power cycle. I'm also getting a cpu fan error that won't go away iv tore build down to rivettes then back up cleaning as I go with isopropyl alcohol board looks like she just came outa factory. Even redid all internal wiring new zip ties.

Don't buy any off Amazon seems whole batch is doa soon as you put any pressure on the clip they break off. Had to go to Staples intown yuck.

But it's holding for now. Off topic anyone know if I can clean a swiftech H240x with isopropyl to kill all the green floatys that seem to be growing on inside?

Or is there a better option to kill/clean that AIO,


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Merry Xmas everyone


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Merry Xmas everyone


^ This!


----------



## SparkyBoy006

If you're using Windows 10, make sure you're using the built in drivers and not the ones from Asmedia (if the Asmedia drivers are installed, go to device manager and uninstall them and then search for driver, it'll install the windows 10 one). If you're using the USB 2.0 Intel ports and also the Asmedia USB 3.0 ports and experiencing issues then it's most likely not the USB ports... can't see both your USB controllers going out at once. Which USB mouse are you using? Do you have your Wi-Fi router near by? If the mice run on 2.4GHz, you can be receiving interference from a nearby router (neighbors too) or microwave.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Merry Christmas everyone!


----------



## Shadowarez

Merry Christmas everyone let's make our boards last another year before retirement into a htpc or server ?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Merry Christmas everyone let's make our boards last another year before retirement into a htpc or server ?


Merry Christmas
























Easy peasy... I have _NO DOUBT_ these boards will last for another few years or more... Other than needing (NEEDING key word) more than 6 cores (8 with the 1680v2) the latest i9's still really don't have much on us... (DDR 4, who cares) most of us don't really need 18 cores in our desktop and would benefit much more from higher overclocks on less cores anyway.

Look and the mirror and smile because we all made a really wise investment in these boards, especially with the NVMe BIOS updates. IMO they are built to last.


----------



## smrdel

I have seen the new Fractal Design R6 can support EATX up to 285 mm wide

This is the size on the Asus website of the Black Edition

Extended ATX Form Factor
12 inch x 10.7 inch ( 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm )

Just wondering if which way these measurements are mentioned i.e width x height or height x width ?

Also has anyone have the board in a mini tower case ? If so which one ?

I am looking to downsize from a Cosmos 2 Tower which is huge !


----------



## Madmaxneo

Does anyone here know if the Xbox one wireless controller will work with this MB without needing the wireless adapter?
I ask because it says it works through bluetooth, but then I read that it requires a dongle to connect to a PC...

I need a new wireless controller as my Logitech 710 finally crapped out on me. The buttons are doing some really screwy things lately (changed batteries).....lol.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smrdel*
> 
> I have seen the new Fractal Design R6 can support EATX up to 285 mm wide
> 
> This is the size on the Asus website of the Black Edition
> 
> Extended ATX Form Factor
> 12 inch x 10.7 inch ( 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm )
> 
> Just wondering if which way these measurements are mentioned i.e width x height or height x width ?
> 
> Also has anyone have the board in a mini tower case ? If so which one ?
> 
> I am looking to downsize from a Cosmos 2 Tower which is huge !


E-ATX is a standard so all you need to worry about is if the case supports E-ATX... it will fit...

but this doesn't always mean you won't have to remove fans, drive cages, etc to make it fit.. Always best to research that stuff first.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Does anyone here know if the Xbox one wireless controller will work with this MB without needing the wireless adapter?
> I ask because it says it works through bluetooth, but then I read that it requires a dongle to connect to a PC...
> 
> I need a new wireless controller as my Logitech 710 finally crapped out on me. The buttons are doing some really screwy things lately (changed batteries).....lol.


Never heard of the built-in bluetooth being able to emulate and XBOX wireless receiver. It's an interesting question but it's probably quite proprietary (this is M$ after all).


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Does anyone here know if the Xbox one wireless controller will work with this MB without needing the wireless adapter?
> I ask because it says it works through bluetooth, *but then I read that it requires a dongle to connect to a PC...*
> 
> I need a new wireless controller as my Logitech 710 finally crapped out on me. The buttons are doing some really screwy things lately (changed batteries).....lol.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> E-ATX is a standard so all you need to worry about is if the case supports E-ATX... it will fit...
> 
> but this doesn't always mean you won't have to remove fans, drive cages, etc to make it fit.. Always best to research that stuff first.
> Never heard of the built-in bluetooth being able to emulate and XBOX wireless receiver. It's an interesting question but it's probably quite proprietary (this is M$ after all).
Click to expand...

No dongle , no workies


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Never heard of the built-in bluetooth being able to emulate and XBOX wireless receiver. It's an interesting question but it's probably quite proprietary (this is M$ after all).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> No dongle , no workies


I was hoping that since it was bluetooth it was standard bluetooth and like all other bluetooth devices it would work just fine, but then again Microsoft is Microsoft...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I was hoping that since it was bluetooth it was standard bluetooth and like all other bluetooth devices it would work just fine, but then again Microsoft is Microsoft...


Give it a try cause my wireless xbox controller does not have BT









These days I used the wired controller cause the battery pack would get a fraction out of place quite easily and cut out all together


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Give it a try cause my wireless xbox controller does not have BT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These days I used the wired controller cause the battery pack would get a fraction out of place quite easily and cut out all together


Apparently the new Xbox one controller has Bluetooth and was designed to work with a bluetooth capable windows PC without a dongle.


----------



## alancsalt

Let me know if you see one actually working.

I already have two X-box controllers that don't work with either of my PCs. A USB one and an MS X box 360 Wireless type.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Now I am debating.... I can either get an ADATA 256gb NVME drive for my system (will replace my C drive) or get the wireless xbox controller.... The NVME drive is only $20 more (The adapter would be about $20 also so $40 more)


----------



## supermiguel

still debating if worth it upgrading this board/cpu to new generation, only use system for gaming


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> still debating if worth it upgrading this board/cpu to new generation, only use system for gaming


Depends on what you're getting out of your chip then, since for pure gaming I believe the 8700+ is what most hit, though if gaming/streaming then 7900 if you'rea high end streamer ( mainly so u can dedicate addiitonal cores for pure streaming and keep others for just gaming ( not saying u can't w/ a 6/8 core but more so 10+ core as games push into the mult core process more IF you plan to keep the chip for more than 2-3 years )

For me Degradation happenned 2x , 1st after a year + where I had to increase voltage about .015 to get the same clock, then recently couldn't boot at 4.5 even at 1.39, though 4.2 finally worked, so either finally it degraded to the next point or something became wrong with my board, unsure, but at the same time I do a lot of multi tasking and streaming so I was already ready to jump to a 12 core minmum.

I went the 7980XE route since I dedicate 12 cores to OBS and 6 to games/everything else ( MMO I play uses multiple cores nicely so I keep it at 6 + anything else I run + VM's etc, lots of rendering, art and 3D and love it to death.

Next thing you have to consider is throughput mainly most on the 8700+ usually hit around 4.8-5.0 ghz on way lower voltage than we require now + higher ram speed count as well for those that need it.
Techs always gonna change, but if you're running fine w/ what you have now and not being hindered then GPU's for the most part will be all you really need for your gaming experience, hell some people are still on their 930's and 980's ( I still have mine )

I'm debating atm what to do w/ my 4960X and BE, it served me well. I just like the added convenience of pure USB 3.1 everywhere + USB C on my boards and m.2 slots vs needing a card and other features, but ONLY because I max it out.

tl;dr version

First assess what your needs are and if they're being met, if not, can addon's ( periph cards, USB devices, GPU ) appease the need? If not then maybe an upgrade is in order.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> still debating if worth it upgrading this board/cpu to new generation, only use system for gaming


That is the thing... you really don't need it and any real improvements in gaming you can get through a better video card, that is if you don't have the latest.
I personally really do not need either of the things I am debating over. My system boots up pretty quick (less than 30 seconds) despite the loads of programs that boot up with the system and I have a wired controller that works fine.


----------



## supermiguel

i currently have a i7-3930k finding it hard to replace.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> i currently have a i7-3930k finding it hard to replace.


You could always just upgrade the CPU.....


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You could always just upgrade the CPU.....


Not many options


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Not many options


1650 v2 1660 v2 1680v2

4960x 4930k. Can go for a locked 2680v2(10 core), pretty cheap.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1650 v2 1660 v2 1680v2
> 
> 4960x 4930k. Can go for a locked 2680v2(10 core), pretty cheap.


Any gaming improvement on any of those??


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

60hz gaming, probably not. The next upgrade from x79 should be at least z370 and 8700k.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 60hz gaming, probably not. The next upgrade from x79 should be at least z370 and 8700k.


60hz at 4k?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

There is no rush to upgrade your cpu. Just pointing out some options with x79 or a possible chipset change.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1650 v2 1660 v2 1680v2
> 
> 4960x 4930k. Can go for a locked 2680v2(10 core), pretty cheap.


Wow I didn't realize there was a 10 core option for X79


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Wow I didn't realize there was a 10 core option for X79


Some one selling them on ebay for like $150 how good/bad do this cpus overclock?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Some one selling them on ebay for like $150 how good/bad do this cpus overclock?


Considering that it is locked it probably doesn't have much wiggle room for OCing, may be limited to just basic Base clock increases if that.


----------



## Laithan

2680V2
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Xeon/Intel-Xeon%20E5-2680%20v2.html

2690V2 higher multi
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Xeon/Intel-Xeon%20E5-2690%20v2.html

Looks like there is also a 12 core option
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Xeon/Intel-Xeon%20E5-2697%20v2.html

None of these would be good for gaming but would make a nice ESXi host or productivity workstation.


----------



## Madmaxneo

For those that don't know, I've been having weird PC freeze issues (maybe 2 or 3 times a week) that can only be resolved by restarting the PC. Nothing really indicative in event viewer either.
I've run virus and malware scans and it's not that.
Memtest returns no errors, same with sfc scan now and the other one run from command prompt.
I have been running stress tests and I get some weird results.
With the intel burn test it runs fine in standard but has these intermittent freezes at the higher settings with the freezes lasting longer the higher the test level, but no computer resets needed.
I also ran basic OCCT and the OCCT Linpack for about an hour with no issues. It also does not seem to matter if I am OCing or not, I get the same results.

Could it be the memory though memtest showed no errors? Maybe the PSU, should I run the PSU test in OCCT?

If it can be either the memory or even the CPU what would you all recommend tweaking for possibly better stability?


----------



## Laithan

I'd try to map out exactly when it occurs and what component(s) if any are under load to give you some direction. For example if this never happens @ idle then you should be able to pinpoint a component (*something* to chase vs nothing) that may be under load and/or faulting (usually CPU or GPU but could be network transfers, internal disk/ssd IO, certain USB components in play... ). Keep background monitoring on at all times that can trend and record temps so you can see how everything looked when it locked. See if you can identify any trends or anything in common with the freezes if you haven't already. Unplug all peripherals that are not required for basic operation of the system and test "bare". I have had USB devices cause issues before.

Inspect the motherboard with a bright flashlight for any blown caps. You can try to remove and re-seat power connectors on the board, etc

PSU dirty? Blow all the dust out recently?

Good luck!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I'd try to map out exactly when it occurs and what component(s) if any are under load to give you some direction. For example if this never happens @ idle then you should be able to pinpoint a component (*something* to chase vs nothing) that may be under load and/or faulting (usually CPU or GPU but could be network transfers, internal disk/ssd IO, certain USB components in play... ). Keep background monitoring on at all times that can trend and record temps so you can see how everything looked when it locked. See if you can identify any trends or anything in common with the freezes if you haven't already. Unplug all peripherals that are not required for basic operation of the system and test "bare". I have had USB devices cause issues before.
> 
> Inspect the motherboard with a bright flashlight for any blown caps. You can try to remove and re-seat power connectors on the board, etc
> 
> PSU dirty? Blow all the dust out recently?
> 
> Good luck!


It happens at odd times, it doesn't matter what I am doing be the PC at idle or playing a game. Though it hasn't crashed yet when running any of the stress tests or when playing a more stressful game, but that may be more from chance than anything.

I'll take a look underneath the PC and the dust filter under the PSU. I haven't checked it in awhile...lol.

EDIT: The dust filters and the PSU are pretty much free of dust. But I did notice something odd. The reported vcore on through either cpu-Z or OCCT is half of what I set it to in the bios. I have it set for 1.32 and it reads between .065 and .066 and if I set it to 1.33 it goes up a little. Is this normal?

EDIT 2: The last time it happened, Thursday eve, the error code on the MB was 40. 40 is not assigned yet....


----------



## Laithan

Unless you're specifically using it I would disable Intel Speedstep in the BIOS


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Unless you're specifically using it I would disable Intel Speedstep in the BIOS


Hmm, will it affect performance any if I turn it off?


----------



## Laithan

It's a power thing. It just keeps your CPU @ boost speed all the time vs ramping up and down. The CPU will still be @ idle but at a higher idle speed. Performance shouldn't change however some claim to have better overclocking success and/or stability with it off also.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Sidestep really has any real power savings when running 100 strap and + offset vcore









Id be upping the vcore and vscca a tad personally


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> It's a power thing. It just keeps your CPU @ boost speed all the time vs ramping up and down. The CPU will still be @ idle but at a higher idle speed. Performance shouldn't change however some claim to have better overclocking success and/or stability with it off also.


I looked it up and from what I've read it is recommended to keep it on, though some say for OCing it is automatically shut off. Just about everyone mentions that temps will go up and there will be a slight drop in FPS from games with speedstep disabled and some mention that OC will not be as stable.....

But I did just notice something. My minimum CPU state is set to 20% so at idle it should drop low, but it is staying at 4.2ghz which is not normal. As I am typing this and listening to music my load is barely reach 4% so it should not be running at max OC....


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

But what is your actual vcore when at 4.2 gigs ?

Is the vcore fluctuating ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> But what is your actual vcore when at 4.2 gigs ?
> 
> Is the vcore fluctuating ?


My vcore is currently set to 1.32v, but it is currently reading a steady .664, which is where it normally is and it doesn't really fluctuate except maybe between .662 up to .665 on occasion.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I just did a little experimenting and discovered something.

First a question: What does vcore have to do with the PCIe interface?

The reason I ask is I dropped my vcore down to 1.30 in the bios and it dropped to just over half that in CPU-Z. I decided to test it by playing The Witcher 3. At about 10 mins into the game both my screens went black, but my system did not seem to freeze because I could hear the game running in the background. I could not get my monitors to show up so I rebooted, and the bios had reset to base numbers. I rebooted again and put everything back to my normal OC with a vcore of 1.32.
The last errors in event viewer were the video card drivers had failed and reset, twice.

Note that there is no OC on my GPU.


----------



## xarot

Newer CPU-Z versions report half of the actual Vcore on this board.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Newer CPU-Z versions report half of the actual Vcore on this board.


Interesting to know this. But other programs (like OCCT) also report vcore at half of what I set it to.

I am thinking about increasing the 2 VTTCPU Voltage and the CPU VCCSA Voltage but I am a little weary in messing with those. Hopefully someone here can answer a couple of questions.

1. What kind of increments should I increase them by to see if they help any.

2. What is the safe limit for those two settings?
For VTTCPU I am reading it is 1.4v (saying 1.35v should be sufficient) and to keep both the VTTCPU voltages within a 300mv delta of each other.
I have found nothing on CPU VCCSA Voltage.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I just did a little experimenting and discovered something.
> 
> First a question: What does vcore have to do with the PCIe interface?
> 
> The reason I ask is I dropped my vcore down to 1.30 in the bios and it dropped to just over half that in CPU-Z. I decided to test it by playing The Witcher 3. At about 10 mins into the game both my screens went black, but my system did not seem to freeze because I could hear the game running in the background. I could not get my monitors to show up so I rebooted, and the bios had reset to base numbers. I rebooted again and put everything back to my normal OC with a vcore of 1.32.
> The last errors in event viewer were the video card drivers had failed and reset, twice.
> 
> Note that there is no OC on my GPU.


I think this is key information.. and also aligns with not experiencing the issues with heavy CPU loads. I realize you said you weren't overclocking your GPU(s) (you have just one?) however this sounds like a classic TDR.

http://developer.download.nvidia.com/NsightVisualStudio/2.2/Documentation/UserGuide/HTML/Content/Timeout_Detection_Recovery.htm

If you are seeing video display driver crashes in the event log then this is your culprit. It is absolutely normal to "crash" (black screen just as you described) and be able to see/hear other componets of the system still functioning. This is a recoverable crash as the video drivers can auto-recover via the O/S and NVIDIA's TDR.

I would direct all my troubleshooting to your GPU(s) now. You may have a driver issue however USUALLY you only see a TDR when the GPU is overclocked too high, VRMs overheated, GPU overheated, memory overheated or a combination of any.

A stock GPU getting these under heavy load (Witcher 3 certainly is a heavy GPU load) and getting TDRs is in my opinion a dead giveaway / sign of overheating. This could be caused by excessive dust, old and dried up TIM, dried up thermal pads or a combination of them all.

PS. If you want a good stress test for your GPU (and overall system as well but primarily GPU) then try FFXIV HeavenSward FREE benchmark. Set the PRESET to MAXIMUM and use 4K (or DSR if you don't have a 4K monitor) and run the benchmark. A GPU that isn't stable won't make it through that test. It will use a lot of power, generate a lot of heat and push your GPU hard all simultaneously. Don't use furmark/kombuster, those are good ways to kill a GPU.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I seriously doubt it is my GPU. That is one time that I could hear the sounds from a game running in the background. Most of the time everything freezes up beforehand, including the sound and finally my screens go blank. I've run Heaven and Valley with no issues but I will run the benchmark you mention, though it is titled Stormblood so I hope it is the right one.

EDIT: did the test at extreme performance fullscreen windowless and my final score was 15504

But can anyone respond to these queries?

I am thinking about increasing the 2 VTTCPU Voltage and the CPU VCCSA Voltage but I am a little weary in messing with those. Hopefully someone here can answer a couple of questions.

1. What kind of increments should I increase them by to see if they help any.

2. What is the safe limit for those two settings?
For VTTCPU I am reading it is 1.4v (saying 1.35v should be sufficient) and to keep both the VTTCPU voltages within a 300mv delta of each other.
I have found nothing on CPU VCCSA Voltage.

3. What does vcore have to do with PCIe lanes (if anything)?


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I seriously doubt it is my GPU. That is one time that I could hear the sounds from a game running in the background. Most of the time everything freezes up beforehand, including the sound and finally my screens go blank. I've run Heaven and Valley with no issues but I will run the benchmark you mention, though it is titled Stormblood so I hope it is the right one.


At least Witcher 3 did that for me if I had Msi Afterburner running while playing. Game continued but no video. Played it over 100 hours and could replicate the issue.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I seriously doubt it is my GPU. That is one time that I could hear the sounds from a game running in the background. Most of the time everything freezes up beforehand, including the sound and finally my screens go blank. I've run Heaven and Valley with no issues but I will run the benchmark you mention, though it is titled Stormblood so I hope it is the right one.
> 
> EDIT: did the test at extreme performance fullscreen windowless and my final score was 15504
> 
> But can anyone respond to these queries?
> 
> I am thinking about increasing the 2 VTTCPU Voltage and the CPU VCCSA Voltage but I am a little weary in messing with those. Hopefully someone here can answer a couple of questions.
> 
> 1. What kind of increments should I increase them by to see if they help any.
> 
> 2. What is the safe limit for those two settings?
> For VTTCPU I am reading it is 1.4v (saying 1.35v should be sufficient) and to keep both the VTTCPU voltages within a 300mv delta of each other.
> I have found nothing on CPU VCCSA Voltage.
> 
> 3. What does vcore have to do with PCIe lanes (if anything)?


You mean VSCCA 1.35v and VTT 1.15vc . 2nd VTT I leave on auto









If I'm running ram speed below 2400mhz I try to keep my VSCCA @ 1.2vc or less and VTT no moar than 1.15vc .

Maybe you should up the LLC volts to ultra ??


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> You mean VSCCA 1.35v and VTT 1.15vc . 2nd VTT I leave on auto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm running ram speed below 2400mhz I try to keep my VSCCA @ 1.2vc or less and VTT no moar than 1.15vc .
> 
> Maybe you should up the LLC volts to ultra ??


I left the vtt on auto and changed the 2 vtt to 1.2v, as advised by the old OC guide from Raja on the Asus forums. So far it seems to be stable but I only get freezes like once or twice a week.
I'll check and see what my LLC is set to, that may have been the one that at higher settings made my system unstable. Not sure, I just know that when I took it down a notch or two it could pass all the stress tests I threw at it.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Has anyone changed their VRM cooling ? .. I really need to find something better, my VRMs are getting way too hot


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Has anyone changed their VRM cooling ? .. I really need to find something better, my VRMs are getting way too hot


EK block does wonders, I haven't heard much on the BP though.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Has anyone changed their VRM cooling ? .. I really need to find something better, my VRMs are getting way too hot


Put tall heat sinks on the top and bottom of OEM vrm heatsink ....... Works for me 39.5c - 42.5c








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> EK block does wonders, I haven't heard much on the BP though.


Are there still those blocks floating around ?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Are there still those blocks floating around ?


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22410/ex-blc-1614/EK_ASUS_Rampage_IV_Black_Edition_Full_Board_Cooling_Block_Kit_-_Acetal_EK-FB_KIT_ASUS_R4BE_-_Acetal.html?tl=g57c605&id=e5afzwMM

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22890/ex-blc-1640/EK_ASUS_Rampage_IV_Black_Edition_Full_Board_Cooling_Block_Kit_-_AcetalNickel_CSQ_EK-FB_KIT_ASUS_R4BE_-_AcetalNickel_Original_CSQ.html?tl=g57c605&id=e5afzwMM

http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/mb-cooler/mb-special-water-cooler/13131/ek-water-blocks-ek-fb-kit-ga-x79-ud7-acetal-en-nickel?sPartner=googleshoppingusa&gclid=Cj0KCQiAvrfSBRC2ARIsAFumcm9y5cZcbESiyJBr-17KQ_scVoQgL5P_aO4TMmzN0mrO-_nSViQtkPQaAvkMEALw_wcB

Still in stock


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Those blocks look good ... but man oh man, times those prices by 13 and then add a ridiculous amount of shipping ... I think I may just take my chances with the VRMs .... LOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Put tall heat sinks on the top and bottom of OEM vrm heatsink ....... Works for me 39.5c - 42.5c


Got a pic as an example ?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Has anyone changed their VRM cooling ? .. I really need to find something better, my VRMs are getting way too hot


I use the EK. This pic is before the tubing so you can get a better look.


Spoiler: Pihk


----------



## Madmaxneo

Does anyone else here still use the OC panel?

I still have the OC panel my system and it works but I never use it. For that matter I never even really see it unless I open the front door to the case.

I was thinking of removing it primarily to open up the USB header it uses.

If I remove is there any chance of slight performance gain or even a few degrees drop in temps?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I use my panel daily . But I don't use a case . So no performance gains other than on the fly adjustments


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Does anyone else here still use the OC panel?
> 
> I still have the OC panel my system and it works but I never use it. For that matter I never even really see it unless I open the front door to the case.
> 
> I was thinking of removing it primarily to open up the USB header it uses.
> 
> If I remove is there any chance of slight performance gain or even a few degrees drop in temps?


Lol I meant to ebay mine day 1 but forgot to , its still sitting in its plastic.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Lol I meant to ebay mine day 1 but forgot to , its still sitting in its plastic.


I'll probably remove it this weekend. Other than freeing up the USB header it will definitely clear up some cable routing....lol


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I need my panel in my life


----------



## Laithan

I never hooked mine up because of cable management... and thought it was gimmicky.. Maybe I should have given it a chance? What would you say are the best reasons to use it (voltage, memory)?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I never hooked mine up because of cable management... and thought it was gimmicky.. Maybe I should have given it a chance? What would you say are the best reasons to use it (voltage, memory)?


For me its the on the fly adjustments of vcore , dram , strap , multi and vtt . And the LED readouts Ofc . I don't use the other options tho .


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> For me its the on the fly adjustments of vcore , dram , strap , multi and vtt . And the LED readouts Ofc . I don't use the other options tho .


I never figured out how to do those adjustments. Do you have to be in extreme mode to do that? I only use the OC panel in my system, not out and in the open.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I never figured out how to do those adjustments. Do you have to be in extreme mode to do that? I only use the OC panel in my system, not out and in the open.


Yes extreme . You just press the top left button ...............................


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Yes extreme . You just press the top left button ...............................


My board is in a case and the OC panel is in a external drive bay, so I wouldn't be able to use extreme mode. At least according to the manual that is how extreme mode is used...


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

You press the left button and use the left , right arrows to scroll thru .......................... You know this


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> You press the left button and use the left , right arrows to scroll thru .......................... You know this


Yeah, not really. Those arrows are only available in extreme mode and like I said my OC panel is in an external bay so I don't have access to those buttons.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I recently discovered that random system freezes were fixed by increasing my 2 VTTCPU voltage from auto to 1.2v. In lieu of that discovery I am looking at attempting to hit a higher OC again. But I need some advice on this.

FIrst, does anyone know where I can get a good download, unaltered version, of the Intel Burn Test?

I can run at 4.4ghz with no issue but reduced it to 4.2ghz when I started having the issue with system freezes but they continued the same even at 4.2ghz. When I upped the 2 VTTCPU voltage to 1.2ghz the system freezes do not happen anymore.

My CPU has been limited to 4.4 ghz, whereas at 4.5 ghz I would get bsods within minutes of any testing. But the only thing I was tweaking was the vcore to get that score. Note that I even tried a vcore of 1.42v but it didn't make any difference. I'd really like to try and hit 4.6ghz if not 4.8ghz and at least be able to run Firestrike all the way through. I am trying to achieve a much better physics score, which is dependent on the CPU.

What do you think I should look to increasing for better stability in trying to reach higher OC's?

I understand, according to a OC guide for this MB, that I need to keep a delta of 300mv between VTTCPU voltage and 2 VTTCPU voltage. But what about increasing the CPU VCCSA voltage to offset mode? I know that affects RAM stability and I wonder if that may have an effect on overall system stability at higher OCs...

Note that my system is watercooled with the GPU and CPU in different loops. My CPU is cooled by a Swiftech H240-X and the temps never go above 67 degs on hot days during stress tests/benchmarks.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Ive never setup VCCSA offset voltage on a + offset vcore o/c before ......... sounds like it might be worth investigating .

But I don't need to









I went back to 208 bios and got my Dom Plats to run a nice n tight 2133 again after switching bios


----------



## Laithan

I have RipjawZ 2400Mhz (BIOS 0701) and the advice for VSCCA @ 1.2v has also worked out very well for me.







I now seem to be stable @ 24550Mhz after that advice (think I have it at 1.25v atm). I found it challenging to get 2400Mhz stable, the XMP profiles aren't enough to make them work or just manually setting 2400Mhz isn't enough either (won't even post) but after some twiddling they can run. I heard someone say in this thread that going further above 2400Mhz isn't possible / isn't worth it on this system anyway.

I haven't dialed in all the exact voltages yet.. IE: finding the minimum stable. It takes a while to do the testing. I'm a bit old school so I make all changes in the BIOS. I thought automatically rebooting into the BIOS (ASUS boot setting) was a nice time saver but I can see how the O/C panel could come in handy for the tweaking and "dialing in".. I seem to remember it was limited as to what you could tweak.. Can the software (AI Suite 3) and/or the O/C panel allow tweaking of uncommon settings like VSCCA and VTT? I don't have them installed ATM.

Is the O/C panel dependent upon having AI Suite 3 installed or is it a true hardware based solution?

I guess I'm also still trained (more old school) to think that software CPU overclocking wasn't stable and a waste of time (it certainly was for a while...).. What are your opinions vs making the changes directly in the BIOS? Should I be using something other than AI Suite 3 and mem tweak it?

Thanks in advance, I know I have a few question bundled here


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I have RipjawZ 2400Mhz (BIOS 0701) and the advice for VSCCA @ 1.2v has also worked out very well for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now seem to be stable @ 24550Mhz after that advice (think I have it at 1.25v atm). I found it challenging to get 2400Mhz stable, the XMP profiles aren't enough to make them work or just manually setting 2400Mhz isn't enough either (won't even post) but after some twiddling they can run. I heard someone say in this thread that going further above 2400Mhz isn't possible / isn't worth it on this system anyway.
> 
> I haven't dialed in all the exact voltages yet.. IE: finding the minimum stable. It takes a while to do the testing. I'm a bit old school so I make all changes in the BIOS. I thought automatically rebooting into the BIOS (ASUS boot setting) was a nice time saver but I can
> see how the
> 
> *O/C panel could come in handy for the tweaking and "dialing in".. I seem to remember it was limited as to what you could tweak* ..
> 
> *Can the software (AI Suite 3) and/or the O/C panel allow tweaking of uncommon settings like VSCCA and VTT?* I don't have them installed ATM.
> 
> *Is the O/C panel dependent upon having AI Suite 3 installed or is it a true hardware based solution?*
> 
> I guess I'm also still trained (more old school) to think that software CPU overclocking wasn't stable and a waste of time (it certainly was for a while...).. What are your opinions vs making the changes directly in the BIOS? Should I be using something other than AI Suite 3 and mem tweak it?
> 
> Thanks in advance, I know I have a few question bundled here


1. Yes

2. Yes

3. No and Yes a 3/4 solution









I always go to UEFI bios to tweek , mem tweek and AIS3 for monitoring booted in ofc to shave timings to apply in bios settings









But when for example the + offset vcore o/c isn't applying the right vcore that ive set in the bios to boot or bring down dram volts is when the panel is quite damn useful . Also the extra PWM fan headers ect


----------



## Laithan

Thanks for the info. Darn, I really wish the cable was longer for the panel... I need a 3ft extension.. assume such a thing does not exist. would speed up "dialing in" quite I bit it sounds..


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

No worries m8

You would have to make your own ext unfortunately


----------



## bee144

What are the chances of an updated bios for our beloved boards to protect us against spectre/meltdown?

ASUS claims in the below link that our processors would be impacted but they haven't released an updated BIOS in years.
https://www.asus.com/News/YQ3Cr4OYKdZTwnQK

Here's to hoping....

Additional link to check if you're protected against spectre/meltdown with current patches: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-check-if-your-pc-still-vulnerable-meltdown-and-spectre-exploits


----------



## Laithan

This is a good time for ASUS to show it's support/respect for customers that purchased their products. I think it's the right thing to do here despite not being the latest chipset. x79 is certainly not that old and in my opinion is still "Mainstream"... I hope they release a new BIOS for us.. I'm simply not upgrading no matter I am perfectly happy with x79....

@[email protected] Perhaps Raja can shed some light on this question?


----------



## Laithan

https://www.asus.com/News/V5urzYAT6myCC1o2

All those updates and couldn't squeeze in x79?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Its what ive come to expect


----------



## bee144

"We are diligently working to update ASUS motherboards that support 6th, 7th or 8th Generation Intel Core™ processors or Intel Core X-series processors for X99 and X299 platforms." AKA, f*** everyone else.


----------



## Kimir

They didn't even release the R5E bios update... only the R5E10, I mean c'mon!


----------



## 113802

Sick of seeing you guys complaining. Here's the 0801 UEFI with the latest Microcode. You're welcome.

Flash using Flashback:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lGfcJP_OAp4mA3LQ5JnuLm07kPZ_fXjC/view?usp=sharing

Edit: *WARNING* Make sure to disable bitlocker before flashing


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Sick of seeing you guys complaining. Here's the 0801 UEFI with the latest Microcode. You're welcome.
> 
> Flash using Flashback:
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lGfcJP_OAp4mA3LQ5JnuLm07kPZ_fXjC/view?usp=sharing
> 
> Edit: *WARNING* Make sure to disable bitlocker before flashing


Who said it doesn't pay to complain
















*You're the man!* Thank you for this. I remember some info not that long about about BIOS flashback also, time to freshen up.









*Q.> Does this have the microcode for NVMe also? From here*

flash Tips (going back here):

USB drive MUST be *USB 2.0*
Format the drive with *FAT/FAT32* (either will work)
Filename on the USB must be called *R4BE.CAP*
System must be OFF when you insert the USB drive and push the flash back button (ROG button)

Use this USB port (circled in red)


Instructions
http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/usb_bios_flashback_guide/?_ga=2.133506766.1902854509.1516136759-39956028.1463807853

Q.> *One of the questions I don't think was covered (maybe it was?!), when flashing a new BIOS will it erase your previously saved overclocking profiles?*

Thanks!


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Who said it doesn't pay to complain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You're the man!* Thank you for this. I remember some info not that long about about BIOS flashback also, time to freshen up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Q.> Does this have the microcode for NVMe also? From here*
> 
> flash Tips (going back here):
> 
> USB drive MUST be *USB 2.0*
> Format the drive with *FAT/FAT32* (either will work)
> Filename on the USB must be called *R4BE.CAP*
> System must be OFF when you insert the USB drive and push the flash back button (ROG button)
> 
> Use this USB port (circled in red)
> 
> Instructions
> http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/usb_bios_flashback_guide/?_ga=2.133506766.1902854509.1516136759-39956028.1463807853
> 
> Q.> *One of the questions I don't think was covered (maybe it was?!), when flashing a new BIOS will it erase your previously saved overclocking profiles?*
> 
> Thanks!


This UEFI I modded only includes the latest Microcode 42A no other modifications. If you want a modified UEFI with NVMe support with the latest Microcode I can upload it tonight. Yes your profiles will be erased when flashing a new UEFI.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> This UEFI I modded only includes the latest Microcode 42A no other modifications. If you want a modified UEFI with NVMe support with the latest Microcode I can upload it tonight. Yes your profiles will be erased when flashing a new UEFI.


Yes please









If I'm going to flash it might as well be with all the bells and whistles









I am sure many others would find it extremely helpful as well.

Thank you in advance for your assistance with this. Power to the community


----------



## 113802

Rampage IV Black Edition 0801 with latest Microcode, Intel RST OROM and Lan OROM along with NVMe support

Enjoy!

Stealing Instructions:

USB drive MUST be *USB 2.0*
Format the drive with *FAT/FAT32* (either will work)
Filename on the USB must be called *R4BE.CAP*
System must be OFF when you insert the USB drive and push the flash back button (ROG button)

Use this USB port (circled in red)


https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CYOu3cTZMra5FZYpcbId6UnLWtoB2hSy?usp=sharing


----------



## Laithan

I can also add that as an additional safety precaution, you can go into the BIOS, go to the menu where the BIOS flashback is and you can COPY BIOS1 to BIOS2. This will make a backup of your current BIOS before you take the plunge. You will see an orange light flashing on your motherboard (it is flashing while the system is OFF







)












I will be flashing tomorrow morning (time for bed). I will report back.

Thank you very much once again!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

If you search the thread you can find it


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Rampage IV Black Edition 0801 with latest Microcode, Intel RST OROM and Lan OROM along with NVMe support
> 
> Enjoy!


We really appreciate this! My 960 EVO just arrived so this is very timely indeed!


----------



## Wam7

@WannaBeOCer Is it possible to add the updated microcode to the 0208 bios which seems by recent account from a few users here to be the best overclocking bios (lowering vcore at least)

Here is a link to it where MrTOOSHORT already added nVME support to it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/13900_100#post_25798179


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE OEM INFO/BIOS/DRIVER PACK

Download HERE
_MD5_: 2b2cd284521bd07df3f13502165a8854

*Updated on 1/17/18 with:*
-Intel_LAN_22.10
-Intel_RSTe_Drivers_&_Software_Set_v15.9.0.1015
-Realtek_HDAudio_8346
-Added Ashampoo SpectreMeltdownCheck (distributed under the MIT License) (To check Spectre/Meltdown vulnerability before and after Windows/BIOS updates)

*Updated BIOS with:*
-CPU Microcode 0306E4 IVB-E - 42A (Meltdown and Spectre mitigation update for Ivy Bridge-E)
-Added NVMe Support

WARNING: Per Intel instructions, make sure to disable Bitlocker (if you have it enabled) before flashing BIOS with CPU Microcode update! (You can safely re-enable after flashing)

*Read the included ReadMe files for any special instructions or notes when you download this pack!*

Please report any issues.


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> @WannaBeOCer Is it possible to add the updated microcode to the 0208 bios which seems by recent account from a few users here to be the best overclocking bios (lowering vcore at least)
> 
> Here is a link to it where MrTOOSHORT already added nVME support to it.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/13900_100#post_25798179


Added 0208 with NVMe support to my google drive share.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Added 0208 with NVMe support to my google drive share.


Words can not express... hmm, well maybe they can; your awesomeness can not even be matched by your immense attractiveness.









For those time oppressed like me here is the link,

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CYOu3cTZMra5FZYpcbId6UnLWtoB2hSy


----------



## Laithan

*My experience flashing the updated 0801 BIOS:*

Stealing back my instructions







to update to them:

»» *flash Tips* (going back here):

*Backup your BIOS first*








Go inside your current BIOS to the BIOS FLASHBACK (there are some settings for BIOS flashback INSIDE the BIOS also) and *COPY BIOS 1 to BIOS 2*. This will make a backup of your current BIOS over to the backup BIOS if for any reason you need to boot to your previous BIOS again. This same menu allows you to choose which to boot with also.

Be warned, *OVERCLOCK PROFILES WILL BE ERASED*
Saving them to a USB drive won't help either (figured that out the hard way) because you cannot load a profile from a different BIOS.

Don't forget to LITERALLY whip out the camera/phone and take pictures of all your BIOS settings unless you want to start over or have a photographic memory.


» DISABLE *bitlocker* if enabled
» USB drive MUST be *USB 2.0*
» Format the drive with *FAT/FAT32* (either will work)
» Filename on the USB must be called *R4BE.CAP*
» System must be *OFF* when you insert the USB drive and push the flash back button (ROG button)
» You must use *this* USB port (circled in red)


*Instructions*

(1) Once you're ready to flash _*shut off*_ the PC

(2) With the USB drive already in the _*correct USB port*_, press and hold the ROG button until it flashes

(3) If your USB drive has an activity indicator you should see it flashing. There is also an *amber light flashing on the motherboard* while it is flashing (system will be OFF).

(4) The light on the motherboard _*will stop flashing when it is done*_. Then you can turn on the system. If any thing went wrong or the process was interrupted just repeat the flash process over.

(5) Once booted with the new BIOS go into the BIOS and _*load the BIOS defaults*_. Don't forget to set all your settings again and bust out those pictures you previously took









http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/usb_bios_flashback_guide/?_ga=2.133506766.1902854509.1516136759-39956028.1463807853

And here is my result. I did have the O/S patch installed (Win7 x64) prior to updating the BIOS. Now using the powershell script it verifies I'm wearing a Speculative Condom










Powershell script
https://gallery.technet.microsoft.com/scriptcenter/Speculation-Control-e36f0050#content

If you have Windows 7 x64 and get an error you need to update PowerShell. You need this

It works folks! Go for it.








Thanks to @WannaBeOCer for providing ASUS customer support... since ASUS wouldn't









His BIOS' are here:
includes NVMe and Intel speculative patch 0208 pre-release BIOS (some say better O/C less voltage)/0801 latest official BIOS both for RIVBE
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CYOu3cTZMra5FZYpcbId6UnLWtoB2hSy

If anyone has anything to add please do


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE OEM INFO/BIOS/DRIVER PACK
> 
> Download HERE
> _MD5_: 2b2cd284521bd07df3f13502165a8854
> 
> *Updated on 1/17/18 with:*
> -Intel_LAN_22.10
> -Intel_RSTe_Drivers_&_Software_Set_v15.9.0.1015
> -Realtek_HDAudio_8346
> -Added Ashampoo SpectreMeltdownCheck (distributed under the MIT License) (To check Spectre/Meltdown vulnerability before and after Windows/BIOS updates)
> 
> *Updated BIOS with:*
> -CPU Microcode 0306E4 IVB-E - 42A (Meltdown and Spectre mitigation update for Ivy Bridge-E)
> -Added NVMe Support
> 
> WARNING: Per Intel instructions, make sure to disable Bitlocker (if you have it enabled) before flashing BIOS with CPU Microcode update! (You can safely re-enable after flashing)
> 
> *Read the included ReadMe files for any special instructions or notes when you download this pack!*
> 
> Please report any issues.


Thanks SparkyBoy006, another great pack with reliable drivers for Windows 10 version 1709(Fall Creators Update)







Also includes an easy way to flash the latest ME!


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Thanks SparkyBoy006, another great pack with reliable drivers for Windows 10 version 1709(Fall Creators Update)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also includes an easy way to flash the latest ME!


Yes thank you! Sorry I don't use Winderz 10 so I skipped









I notice there is a BIOS in that link also. Is there any difference from the one we have here? Assuming the BIOS is NOT Winderz 10 specific, just the driver pack is.

Also, happy to report I am able to overclock MUCH higher with LESS voltage using this new 0801! I am so amazed at how easy it was to hit this speed. The fastest I was able to go previously was 4650Mhz but with the memory lower. To compare apples/apples I overclocked the exact same way (~133Mhz bus, 125Mhz strap) and this is the difference for both the CPU and MEMORY overclocks. I haven't yet determined if the CPU or the MEMORY could go even higher (I'm going to also play with 173Mhz+ bus)..

Here is a before and after shot you have to admit this is impressive... As far as I am concerned _*the 0701 BIOS was trash*_ now that I see the difference. I thought it was only for the 128GB support but apparently it's different on the inside







. I still don't know if I would do even better with 0203 but I would not expect too much MORE







. I am not done lowering the voltage yet, I might be able to get even less









Pictures speak a thousand words.. a _*considerable*_ difference for just a BIOS flash...
right-click and open in a new tab for hi-res


----------



## SparkyBoy006

The BIOS is not Windows 10 specific and should be very similar to WannaBeOCer's. There's more than just drivers in the pack. Check your Intel Mangement Engine version number in your BIOS... you can use my pack to easily update it to v8.1.70.1590 if you haven't already (fixes some big security vulnerabilities). Use this tool to check if you're vulnerable. Also, you can add OEM info to your System screen.

CPU microcode updates affect overclocking. 0801 with a an older or newer microcode could perform better or worse.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Yes thank you! Sorry I don't use Winderz 10 so I skipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I notice there is a BIOS in that link also. Is there any difference from the one we have here? Assuming the BIOS is NOT Winderz 10 specific, just the driver pack is.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> The BIOS is not Windows 10 specific and should be very similar to WannaBeOCer's. There's more than just drivers in the pack. Check your Intel Mangement Engine version number in your BIOS... you can use my pack to easily update it to v8.1.70.1590 if you haven't already (fixes some big security vulnerabilities). Use this tool to check if you're vulnerable. Also, you can add OEM info to your System screen.
> 
> CPU microcode updates affect overclocking. 0801 with a an older or newer microcode could perform better or worse.


Thanks! That's great info.









I ran the tool and it looks like I have the old one


Hmm... I could just flash your BIOS I guess and it would have everything right? It looks to be the latest and greatest of everything a BIOS could have, nice work! I would love to get those security vulnerabilities fixed.

Would it be difficult to compare the microcodes to the 0801 here to see if they are different?


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Thanks! That's great info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran the tool and it looks like I have the old one
> 
> 
> Hmm... I could just flash your BIOS I guess and it would have everything right? It looks to be the latest and greatest of everything a BIOS could have, nice work! I would love to get those security vulnerabilities fixed.
> 
> Would it be difficult to compare the microcodes to the 0801 here to see if they are different?


Everything is the same except for the lan orom. His uses the Intel PRO/1000 orom. Both have the same microcode, nvme driver, and RST orom.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

The Intel ME update is not in my BIOS file, but a tool to update it is found in my pack in the bios folder. Read the readme file there. As, WannaBeOCer said, our BIOS files are identical other than the LAN OROM. We're both using the latest microcode from Intel to mitigate spectre/meltdown.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Thanks! That's great info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran the tool and it looks like I have the old one
> 
> 
> Hmm... I could just flash your BIOS I guess and it would have everything right? It looks to be the latest and greatest of everything a BIOS could have, nice work! I would love to get those security vulnerabilities fixed.
> 
> Would it be difficult to compare the microcodes to the 0801 here to see if they are different?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Everything is the same except for the lan orom. His uses the Intel PRO/1000 orom. Both have the same microcode, nvme driver, and RST orom.


Awesome!.. downloading as we speak (for the ME update tool)


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Download THIS and extract it. Then run the FWUpdLcl64 exe in a command prompt window. Usage is FWUpdLcl64.exe -F update.bin (make sure to put the full path to the update.bin file)

You can read more here.


----------



## bee144

Does using a custom BIOS (I assume unsigned?) break the ability to use secure boot?

Also, the steps say to disable bitlocker. Does that mean we should suspend bitlocker or completely turn it off?


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Secure boot will work and disabling Bitlocker should be OK. I would make sure you have a copy of the encryption key just in case you need to input it after re-enabling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bee144*
> 
> Does using a custom BIOS (I assume unsigned?) break the ability to use secure boot?
> 
> Also, the steps say to disable bitlocker. Does that mean we should suspend bitlocker or completely turn it off?


----------



## Madmaxneo

@SparkyBoy006
Question about these drivers and the bios.
I haven't really updated any of MB drivers in awhile. I have only gone back and forth with the BIOS starting from 0601 originally then to 0801, then between 0701and 0801 several times.

Should I load all the drivers first then the bios or the opposite, or does it really not matter?


----------



## SparkyBoy006

The order doesn't matter. You can flash BIOS before or after updating drivers. Don't forget to update the Intel ME firmware while you're at it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @SparkyBoy006
> Question about these drivers and the bios.
> I haven't really updated any of MB drivers in awhile. I have only gone back and forth with the BIOS starting from 0601 originally then to 0801, then between 0701and 0801 several times.
> 
> Should I load all the drivers first then the bios or the opposite, or does it really not matter?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> The order doesn't matter. You can flash BIOS before or after updating drivers. Don't forget to update the Intel ME firmware while you're at it.


That one is the only one that tells me I have the software on my system and I need to uninstall it before proceeding...

Also, is it safe to assume the only one I need is the ME_SW_MSI, correct?


----------



## SparkyBoy006

The ME_SW_MSI SetupME is the driver for Intel Management Engine and is the correct file you want to run. The actual ME firmware is different and is what I was referring to when I said to update that as well. Look in the RIVBE Flashback BIOS folder and then the Intel MEI 8.1.70.1590 folder. Try to use the MEtool to easily update. If that doesn't work for whatever reason, then look a few posts up and I posted a file with an easy alternative manual way to do it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That one is the only one that tells me I have the software on my system and I need to uninstall it before proceeding...
> 
> Also, is it safe to assume the only one I need is the ME_SW_MSI, correct?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> The ME_SW_MSI SetupME is the driver for Intel Management Engine and is the correct file you want to run. The actual ME firmware is different and is what I was referring to when I said to update that as well. Look in the RIVBE Flashback BIOS folder and then the Intel MEI 8.1.70.1590 folder. Try to use the MEtool to easily update. If that doesn't work for whatever reason, then look a few posts up and I posted a file with an easy alternative manual way to do it.


Cool, thanks for the help!
I have an odd issue with the ME_SW_MSI SetupME file. I go to install it and I get the error that I need to uninstall a previous version, even right after I just uninstalled it. It would disappear from the programs list but then show back up right when that error hits. I went in and did a "repair" the third time around and it seems to have worked.....

Now to do the bios update... which I kind of dread because I will have to redo all my OC'd settings, and I've been known to forget things...lol. Yes I have them saved in the bios and yes I know all that gets written over







.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Before you flash, save your BIOS settings to an external USB drive. In the BIOS GUI and under the Profile settings there's an option to Load/Save Profile from/to USB Drive. You sometimes have to reload twice to get all settings loaded, but it works well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Cool, thanks for the help!
> I have an odd issue with the ME_SW_MSI SetupME file. I go to install it and I get the error that I need to uninstall a previous version, even right after I just uninstalled it. It would disappear from the programs list but then show back up right when that error hits. I went in and did a "repair" the third time around and it seems to have worked.....
> 
> Now to do the bios update... which I kind of dread because I will have to redo all my OC'd settings, and I've been known to forget things...lol. Yes I have them saved in the bios and yes I know all that gets written over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## Laithan

Unfortunately it won't let you load the settings unless they were saved with the same BIOS. That's where I found out (the hard way) I had to use the camera to "save" my BIOS settings


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Yep ya gotta read the fine print .

But for me I know my various o/c settings for sandy and ivy e these days like the hiking tracks around my 'burb


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SparkyBoy006*
> 
> Before you flash, save your BIOS settings to an external USB drive. In the BIOS GUI and under the Profile settings there's an option to Load/Save Profile from/to USB Drive. You sometimes have to reload twice to get all settings loaded, but it works well.


I could not find the profile settings in the bios. Regardless I took a pic like @Laithan suggested and that seemed to work fine. Though I am not sure the bios took from my USB drive. For one when flashing the bios using ROG connect I held the button in until it flashed and let go, but it only flashed for like 2 seconds after letting go and then it stopped. In the past I remember it taking much longer than a few seconds to load a new bios. Also, all of my favorites are still there. I may have to find another USB drive and see if it works better that way. OTOH everything was reset to basic non OC'd settings.

Is there any way to check in the bios to see if it is updated? Did you update the "date" in the bios, if so what is the new date? Mine is reading 2015....


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I could not find the profile settings in the bios. Regardless I took a pic like @Laithan suggested and that seemed to work fine. Though I am not sure the bios took from my USB drive. For one when flashing the bios using ROG connect I held the button in until it flashed and let go, but it only flashed for like 2 seconds after letting go and then it stopped. In the past I remember it taking much longer than a few seconds to load a new bios. Also, all of my favorites are still there. I may have to find another USB drive and see if it works better that way. OTOH everything was reset to basic non OC'd settings.
> 
> Is there any way to check in the bios to see if it is updated? Did you update the "date" in the bios, if so what is the new date? Mine is reading 2015....


Under Advanced>CPU Configuration

See if Microcode Patch is 42A


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Under Advanced>CPU Configuration
> 
> See if Microcode Patch is 42A


Thank you. It did not take the first time so I had to clean out another USB drive and use that, it worked with that drive.

Everything is back up and running just fine now but I was wondering if anyone could take a look at what I do for my OC and see if there any suggestions to get a little more. FYI I can do 4.4ghz no problem but I can't do 4.5ghz for more than a few minutes. I want to reach 4.6 and if possible 4.8ghz.
Here is a screenshot of the items I change and are saved in my favorites:


In addition to that I have XMP on and that sets my RAM to 2133mhz. Everything is in my sig if you need to see that. Thanks in advance!

EDIT: My vcore setting is missing in that above image. I currently have it set it 1.32v.


----------



## Wam7

NMVe Issues:
I searched through Home's and other's post on setting up for an NVMe drive. In his post here http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/14800_100#post_26404554 I can see THREE boot options showing up but I'm only getting TWO; no Windows Boot Manager.









I flashed the 0801 recently supplied by SparkyBoy006 and also tried the modified 0701 on the ROG forum.

I have a Samsung 960 EVO with an Akasa adpater in the 3rd PCIe_X16/X8 slot. https://www.overclockers.co.uk/akasa-m.2-ssd-to-pcie-adapter-card-cc-008-ak.html

Is anything that I'm not doing or do I now need to try another adapter (I only got this one as it came in a deal with the M.2 drive)


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> NMVe Issues:
> I searched through Home's and other's post on setting up for an NVMe drive. In his post here http://www.overclock.net/t/1444356/official-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-owners-club/14800_100#post_26404554 I can see THREE boot options showing up but I'm only getting TWO; no Windows Boot Manager.
> 
> I flashed the 0801 recently supplied by SparkyBoy006 and also tried the modified 0701 on the ROG forum.
> 
> I have a Samsung 960 EVO with an Akasa adpater in the 3rd PCIe_X16/X8 slot. https://www.overclockers.co.uk/akasa-m.2-ssd-to-pcie-adapter-card-cc-008-ak.html
> 
> Is anything that I'm not doing or do I now need to try another adapter (I only got this one as it came in a deal with the M.2 drive)


I suggest flashing the one I provided. I know the NVMe driver in the one I provided works.

Edit: Also boot manager will only show when Windows is installed via UEFI.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> I suggest flashing the one I provided. I know the NVMe driver in the one I provided works.
> 
> Edit: Also boot manager will only show when Windows is installed via UEFI.


Well amazingly enough there was an immediate difference after flashing the BIOS you did. Now I see an extra drive that shows up as PATA SS:.


So how do I install Windows 10 in UEFI mode, is that done when I create the bootable USB drive in Rufus?


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Well amazingly enough there was an immediate difference after flashing the BIOS you did. Now I see an extra drive that shows up as PATA SS:.
> 
> 
> So how do I install Windows 10 in UEFI mode, is that done when I create the bootable USB drive in Rufus?


That is correct the NVMe device will show up as PATA. Click F8 at startup and pick the UEFI bootup option of your Windows installer.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> That is correct the NVMe device will show up as PATA. Click F8 at startup and pick the UEFI bootup option of your Windows installer.


Sorted. I'm becoming indebted to you more than I'd like.









If there are any more NVMe stragglers I created a UEFI bootdisk in Rufus with these options:


and then after pressing F8 I got these options and selected the "UEFI: Generic Storage Device" my UEFI created USB boot disk.


In the bios I now have 4 boot options where as before they were only 2: (Becomes 3 when the USB boot disk is unplugged)


Many thanks again to WannaBeOCer, I'm not sure why your modded bios worked and the other 2 modded bioses did not but cheers.


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Sorted. I'm becoming indebted to you more than I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If there are any more NVMe stragglers I created a UEFI bootdisk in Rufus with these options:
> 
> and then after pressing F8 I got these options and selected the "UEFI: Generic Storage Device" my UEFI created USB boot disk.
> 
> In the bios I now have 4 boot options where as before they were only 2: (Becomes 3 when the USB boot disk is unplugged)
> 
> Many thanks again to WannaBeOCer, I'm not sure why your modded bios worked and the other 2 modded bioses did not but cheers.


Let's see some SSD benchmarks. Make sure you install Samsung's NVMe driver first.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I don't understand why some of you guys have had difficulty doing the NVMe shuffle


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Let's see some SSD benchmarks. Make sure you install Samsung's NVMe driver first.


Done thanks.


I did get slightly higher write speeds on the old firmware and Microsoft NVMe driver.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> I don't understand why some of you guys have had difficulty doing the NVMe shuffle


Well when two modified bios' don't show up the M.2 drive and a 3rd one does when the only thing done for all 3 was to flash the bios and check if it shows up in the boot options, then it would be quite clear to many why it doesn't just work out of the box.

What kind of self congratulatory, smug and condescending statement was that anyway? Tantamount to, 'If you guys can't get it you must be dumb because it was straight forward for me'. Really? REALLY? I expected more from you... I'm sure you can find a gif, meme or other satirical picture to make a further point.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Nah mate that's not what I meant at all . Not one bit . So go have a tanty somewhere else please .

OMPT is the place for that

But your benchmark looks excellent


----------



## Laithan

Just sharing again (it's worth it)..This 0801 mod is great for overclocking..

Today I was able to actually boot into windows @ 4.9Ghz... before when I was running 0701 I could BARELY get into windows @ 4.8Ghz and I had to disable hyper-threading to do it.. I was also able to run @ 177Mhz BUS.... (previously around 173Mhz max)... and this 0801 BIOS allows me to push my ram to higher speeds also. I previously had trouble getting 2400Mhz stable now I'm running @ 2500Mhz and may be able to go higher.. Still testing but it's looking good.

I'm amazed..
I am using the 0801 that @WannaBeOCer posted but the one from @SparkyBoy006 has the same microcode.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Just sharing again (it's worth it)..This 0801 mod is great for overclocking..
> 
> Today I was able to actually boot into windows @ 4.9Ghz... before when I was running 0701 I could BARELY get into windows @ 4.8Ghz and I had to disable hyper-threading to do it.. I was also able to run @ 177Mhz BUS.... (previously around 173Mhz max)... and this 0801 BIOS allows me to push my ram to higher speeds also. I previously had trouble getting 2400Mhz stable now I'm running @ 2500Mhz and may be able to go higher.. Still testing but it's looking good.
> 
> I'm amazed..
> I am using the 0801 that @WannaBeOCer posted but the one from @SparkyBoy006 has the same microcode.


Aren't they the same BIOS?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

For the last 3 days or so ... I have been getting this:



Anyone know if it board related or not ? (tested multiple routers and I am set to auto-obtain)


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Aren't they the same BIOS?


Apparently the same version but there is some minor differences with the LAN orom and the NVMe support. Both are based on 0801 though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> For the last 3 days or so ... I have been getting this:
> 
> Anyone know if it board related or not ? (tested multiple routers and I am set to auto-obtain)


I didn't have any issues like this related to flashing the BIOS update but I did have some similar issues when I installed the latest Intel LAN drivers. I went from v18 to v22 and Windows 7 didn't like it too much at first.. I was getting a delay loading the desktop and when I tried to set my static IP it would keep choosing a different IP other than what I set... telling me I needed to click on the advanced button to remove one of them.. which I would do and then after clicking OK and closing, I would open right back up and it was still there.. It was maddening.. Finally I booted into safe mode with networking and removed the adapter (but left the drivers installed) and rebooted. It re-detected my Intel 82579V adapter and then from that point forward setting the IP worked as expected. This may be a different issue but the same solution may work for you (can't hurt).

GL


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

@Laithan

Right thats it , gonna have to do this bios shuffle . Want more clocks dammit .


----------



## Madmaxneo

Unfortunately I am still having weird system freeze issues even with the new bios. These are random and they used to only happen in the evening and usually only once. But last night I had two within 10 minutes of each other and then again one this morning within 10 minutes of boot up and then again one when I was playing Witcher 3 an hour ago.

This is starting to really annoy me I am starting to think it may be my PSU. But every other indication is it's running fine. I have noticed the error code on the MB indicates a "40" when this happens but that code has no meaning in the book.

Note that I have to restart my system when they happen.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

PSU .....


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> PSU .....


Is there any sure way to tell?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Is there any sure way to tell?


Put another one in ?? Not much help but ................

Dammit , ive gotta get the creators update first I'm a few versions behind


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Put another one in ?? Not much help but ................
> 
> Dammit , ive gotta get the creators update first I'm a few versions behind


Code 40 just means it booted via Fast Boot if you are sick of seeing 40 you can disable Fast boot in Windows. If you aren't already, run everything at stock including your memory.

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1516495918&sr=1-1&keywords=psu+tester or try a different power supply.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

On my 3rd attempt of Creators update


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WannaBeOCer*
> 
> Code 40 just means it booted via Fast Boot if you are sick of seeing 40 you can disable Fast boot in Windows. If you aren't already, run everything at stock including your memory.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Supply-Tester-PCI/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1516495918&sr=1-1&keywords=psu+tester or try a different power supply.


I have a basic PSU tester but something tells me nothing will show up when I test it.

Some weeks ago I had everything at stock and did not even know it at first and the system still froze. I had accidentally reset everything in my bios without realizing it and rebooted. I had checked CPU-z to see if anything weird was going on and that is when I noticed everything was at stock. The system still froze later that day.

That error "40" doesn't show up until the system freezes. Otherwise it reports "AA" which means no error codes, like now.

FYI I was getting them once a day awhile back then my system got hit with a virus and I cleaned it out. After that the freezes happened maybe once a week, up until last night....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> On my 3rd attempt of Creators update


I had that same issue when updating both my laptop and my tablet to creators ed, both of them are connected via wifi. I did not have that issue with my PC which is connected via cat5 cable.


----------



## FlawleZ

Thanks again to WannaBeOCer and Sparky for providing the BIOS updates. Has anyone ran any before/after benchmarks to compare?


----------



## Laithan

I wasn't aware (never noticed) you could actually take _*SCREENSHOTS*_ from directly in the BIOS and a USB drive attached








(Thanks @Kbird) lmao... right there in front of me, never noticed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> @Laithan
> 
> Right thats it , gonna have to do this bios shuffle . Want more clocks dammit .


More clocks + more secure all in the same flash









Quoting myself like a champ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Also, happy to report I am able to overclock MUCH higher with LESS voltage using this new 0801! I am so amazed at how easy it was to hit this speed. The fastest I was able to go previously was 4650Mhz but with the memory lower. To compare apples/apples I overclocked the exact same way (~133Mhz bus, 125Mhz strap) and this is the difference for both the CPU and MEMORY overclocks. I haven't yet determined if the CPU or the MEMORY could go even higher (I'm going to also play with 173Mhz+ bus)..
> 
> Here is a before and after shot you have to admit this is impressive... As far as I am concerned _*the 0701 BIOS was trash*_ now that I see the difference. I thought it was only for the 128GB support but apparently it's different on the inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I still don't know if I would do even better with 0203 but I would not expect too much MORE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I am not done lowering the voltage yet, I might be able to get even less
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures speak a thousand words.. a _*considerable*_ difference for just a BIOS flash...
> right-click and open in a new tab for hi-res


I _*was*_ in fact able to lower my voltage too!

0701 = 1.504v @ 4584Mhz / 131Mhz bus
0801 = 1.44v @ 4806Mhz / 133Mhz bus











If anyone wants to look (advise, criticize, suggest, compliment, copy w/e lol) it's how I get this:
https://valid.x86.fr/9d80th

Use at your own risk. I have a EK blocks on the VRMs, chipset and CPU. These are H2O settings.


Spoiler: My BIOS screenshots 0801 42a mod


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Thanks again to WannaBeOCer and Sparky for providing the BIOS updates. Has anyone ran any before/after benchmarks to compare?


I had a couple small tests @ 158Mhz bus... I set to the same bus and re-tested.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I had a couple small tests @ 158Mhz bus... I set to the same bus and re-tested.


You know ive been useing 100 strap and offset volts when i should be on 125 166 strap doing what you are doing









@Madmaxneo

Okay on my 5 th attempt im on the latest win10 creators update .

Also i flashed the wannabe overclockers 801 and have only just started to tweek .

Ive had enough BF1 is calling me


----------



## alancsalt

Is there an equivalent bios for the original Rampage IV Extreme?


----------



## 113802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Is there an equivalent bios for the original Rampage IV Extreme?


Would be the one I uploaded the other day and you posted on the OP.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1151946/official-asus-rog-rampage-iv-x79-owners-club


----------



## alancsalt

DOH!


----------



## Laithan

Hang on folks we're in for a rough ride...


----------



## Kimir

Yup, so freaking lost right now lol


----------



## UNOE

I had a pump failure and posted a few times with high temps without realizing temps were high. I shut it down fine when it was still posting. Now I through on a H100i cooler and I can't post I'm getting a 02 code. After the first boot with H100i It did post to bios and get to windows loading screen then blue screened on windows load. After that it boot to bios and stayed on splash screen. Now it won't boot into splash screen. I get a static 02 code. If I click bios swap I also get no post but I get codes cycling endlessly. The backup bios might have been corrupted in the past I think can't remember I think that is the bios that cycles post coded. The bios I been using now wont get past 02 code. I haven't tried new bios yet I should try clean flash.

Just trying to see if anyone has anything on 02 code before?


----------



## UNOE

I had a pump failure and posted a few times with high temps without realizing temps were high. I shut it down fine when it was still posting. Now I through on a H100i cooler and I can't post I'm getting a 02 code. After the first boot with H100i It did post to bios and get to windows loading screen then blue screened on windows load. After that it boot to bios and stayed on splash screen. Now it won't boot into splash screen. I get a static 02 code. If I click bios swap I also get no post but I get codes cycling endlessly. The backup bios might have been corrupted in the past I think can't remember I think that is the bios that cycles post coded. The bios I been using now wont get past 02 code. I haven't tried new bios yet I should try clean flash.

Just trying to see if anyone has anything on 02 code before?


----------



## 113802

UNOE said:


> I had a pump failure and posted a few times with high temps without realizing temps were high. I shut it down fine when it was still posting. Now I through on a H100i cooler and I can't post I'm getting a 02 code. After the first boot with H100i It did post to bios and get to windows loading screen then blue screened on windows load. After that it boot to bios and stayed on splash screen. Now it won't boot into splash screen. I get a static 02 code. If I click bios swap I also get no post but I get codes cycling endlessly. The backup bios might have been corrupted in the past I think can't remember I think that is the bios that cycles post coded. The bios I been using now wont get past 02 code. I haven't tried new bios yet I should try clean flash.
> 
> Just trying to see if anyone has anything on 02 code before?


I used to receive error 02 when I used to over tighten my water blocks on the Rampage IV BE.


----------



## UNOE

WannaBeOCer said:


> I used to receive error 02 when I used to over tighten my water blocks on the Rampage IV BE.


That is possible the h100i screws keep going I will back them off a little.


----------



## UNOE

UNOE said:


> I had a pump failure and posted a few times with high temps without realizing temps were high. I shut it down fine when it was still posting. Now I through on a H100i cooler and I can't post I'm getting a 02 code. After the first boot with H100i It did post to bios and get to windows loading screen then blue screened on windows load. After that it boot to bios and stayed on splash screen. Now it won't boot into splash screen. I get a static 02 code. If I click bios swap I also get no post but I get codes cycling endlessly. The backup bios might have been corrupted in the past I think can't remember I think that is the bios that cycles post coded. The bios I been using now wont get past 02 code. I haven't tried new bios yet I should try clean flash.
> 
> Just trying to see if anyone has anything on 02 code before?


I tried flashing the second bios and it does the same thing cycles. I was able to post eventually with only one stick was in the bios for few min. Then bios locked up and now I boot to 02 code again. I can't seem to get to post again even with only one stick of ram. I think the Samsung wonder ram is hard to post on default bios. But I don't remember this system been running stable for alot of years now. I'm not sure what to do now. Wondering if CPU or board is bad. Its not easy to find parts to test with for x79.


----------



## Laithan

Might be a good time to re-seat the CPU and check pins


----------



## UNOE

delete


----------



## UNOE

Laithan said:


> Might be a good time to re-seat the CPU and check pins


reseated CPU last night still didn't work. I ordered a cheap $15 Xeon. Will try that in a few days. At this point I'm thinking its the Samsung 1.3v ram is the issue or CPU is dead. I was able to post with one stick of ram for only about 1 min.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Hmmm very big :doh:


----------



## Madmaxneo

WannaBeOCer said:


> 


I qouted you since I am not sure how you mention someone on here now.....

I ran my PC all weekend without shutting it down at all and no issues. I put it to sleep last night and it started up fine today after work. When I was getting close to putting it to sleep again it froze again. This time though the code on the MB was a 30 which indicates ASL status codes, but there was nothing at all to indicate which code it was. 

Can you or anyone else maybe give me some insight to this code?

EDIT: I wonder if this was because I put it to sleep prior.... then looking back at the fast boot (40) code that I was getting before could indicate a bigger problem. It seems that whatever state it was in is possibly affecting some kind of system freezes. But how do I troubleshoot this??
Bruce


----------



## 113802

Madmaxneo said:


> I qouted you since I am not sure how you mention someone on here now.....
> 
> I ran my PC all weekend without shutting it down at all and no issues. I put it to sleep last night and it started up fine today after work. When I was getting close to putting it to sleep again it froze again. This time though the code on the MB was a 30 which indicates ASL status codes, but there was nothing at all to indicate which code it was.
> 
> Can you or anyone else maybe give me some insight to this code?
> 
> EDIT: I wonder if this was because I put it to sleep prior.... then looking back at the fast boot (40) code that I was getting before could indicate a bigger problem. It seems that whatever state it was in is possibly affecting some kind of system freezes. But how do I troubleshoot this??
> Bruce


The codes you mention I've seen on every single Asus board I owned. 30 just indicates it woke from s3 sleep. 40 is fastboot. 

I would suggest monitoring your temps, running a memory stress test. Any drivers recently install?

http://www.overclock.net/forum/5-in...-intel-ddr4-24-7-memory-stability-thread.html


----------



## Madmaxneo

WannaBeOCer said:


> The codes you mention I've seen on every single Asus board I owned. 30 just indicates it woke from s3 sleep. 40 is fastboot.
> 
> I would suggest monitoring your temps, running a memory stress test. Any drivers recently install?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/5-in...-intel-ddr4-24-7-memory-stability-thread.html


Ok, yeah I have now noticed that "30" stays on the readout. 
I've done all those things and my system passes each test easily and my temps are fine. I have an app opened all the time on my 2nd screen that shows my cpu/gpu usage and temps. 

This is interesting. I have been putting my system to sleep all week and so far it has been running fine, no freezes or anything of the like. The last time it froze was on Sunday night while in the middle of running the tutorial for Civ VI (just got the game). But it's been fine since then. 
I was running the speech recognition so I could be lazy and just use my mic every so often. But on Monday I disabled it, I wonder if that was causing issues...


----------



## bee144

CPU-Z now contains a Spectre validation feature. When running it, I get the below result:

Rev. 0x42A ► Spectre (CVE-2017-5715) Vulnerable ◄

Has intel released a newer microcode for Ivy Bridge-E?


----------



## Kimir

Intel did release a fix for Ivy-E (not Sandy-E, last I checked) but Asus did not release a new bios.
@WannaBeOCer did share a bios with the early fix here:
http://www.overclock.net/forum/6-in...ack-edition-owners-club-301.html#post26550240

But I think since then, Intel has release another 'final' fix earlier this month.

#rant, we can't tag a member anymore with @ here?! (there is the mention thing, not sure it works) :h34r-smi
edit: it does work, just doesn't show in the edit post.


----------



## Shadowarez

Anyone know if using isopropyl and a air Duster will fix a suddenly non responsive dimm slot? Or how I can run my 4x8gb sticks of corsair Dom's again running in triple channel mode sucks.


----------



## bee144

Kimir said:


> Intel did release a fix for Ivy-E (not Sandy-E, last I checked) but Asus did not release a new bios.
> @WannaBeOCer did share a bios with the early fix here:
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/6-in...ack-edition-owners-club-301.html#post26550240
> 
> But I think since then, Intel has release another 'final' fix earlier this month.
> 
> #rant, we can't tag a member anymore with @ here?! (there is the mention thing, not sure it works) /forum/images/smilies/ph34r-smiley.gif
> edit: it does work, just doesn't show in the edit post. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif


Yes, I am using his latest bios and received that. I’m wondering if he’d be so kind to update the bios again with the newest microcode 🙂


----------



## Madmaxneo

Well it looks as though I may have to go ahead and start a new build now.

My system normally runs fine here and there. But every so often I will get these system freezes with varying things listed in event viewer, though most of the time it is a display driver issue. That is usually solved by running DDU in safe mode and installing a fresh driver from nvidia. But I have to do that like once every few weeks, which should not be. I have also had other system freezes with no real reason in event viewer. 
I also recently noticed my base idle temps have gone up from the normal high 20's low 30's to mid 30's low 40's. So opened my system and checked my loops and everything seemed ok except my aging Swiftech H240-X seemed a bit quiet, so I ran the Intel Burn test. In the standard test my temps didn't even reach 62 deg, so I ran the next higher test and the temps didn't get any higher. I stopped the test about halfway through because I wanted to keep a log just in case, and then restarted it and walked to get a snack. When I came back it was recovering from a bsod. 
Yes I have a low OC set at 4.2ghz but this system used to run fine at 4.4ghz passing all stress tests/benchmarks just fine. I have also noticed some odd issues with my USB ports. For some odd reason none of my USB 2.0 ports work in the bios or in safe mode but the 3.0 ports do just fine in the bios. Interestingly my USB mouse does not work at all in safe mode (used when running DDU). 

So I am thinking I need to upgrade. All I would need is a board, the cpu and RAM. But I don't have the money right now to do what I want, which is get the latest Rampage board. 
I am thinking of settling for the 8700k and a decent board with 4 sticks of DDR4 RAM. Though my budget is limited and all this would be bought through credit on Amazon... so my options are limited.

What do you all think?


----------



## Shadowarez

Fixed the issue of my board running with only 3 dims I pressed and held mem ok button the board rebooted it now sees 32gb of ram in bios instead of 24. Though it's running at 1333mhz


----------



## bee144

Can I keep my SLI GPUs in x16 if I add a NVMe adapter? (4960X)

Current Setup:

PCIe 3.0 x16_1 slot : Titan X (Pascal)
PCIe 3.0 x8_2 slot : Open
PCIe 2.0x1_1 slot: ASUS Strix RAID DLX soundcard
PCIe 3.0 x16/8x_3 slot: Titan X (Pascal)
PCIe 2.0 x1_2 slot : Open
PCIe 3.0 x8_4 slot : Open


----------



## Shadowarez

Use the lane simulator in bios it'll help ya.


----------



## bee144

Shadowarez said:


> Use the lane simulator in bios it'll help ya.


Ah, smart idea. Looks possible if I use PCIe 3.0 x8_2 slot : Open. Thank you!


----------



## Shadowarez

Np was given same advice when I wanted to use duel Titan X's my Intel 910 800gb PCIe ssd and a Asus sonar ? so passing along same info. Before that didn't even know it was in the bios lol


----------



## bee144

Also, the unofficial BIOS that was provided in 1/2018 now contains outdated microcode 42A, which fails most spectre validation programs.

Downloading the attached file in post #1 will install the latest microcode to 42C.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/ucode-fix-for-spectre-ht-bug-fix-and-meltdown.806451/


----------



## bee144

Additional question.... If I just want to run the NVMe drive as a non-OS drive, do I have to do anything special beyond having the custom BIOS installed?


----------



## Shadowarez

Far as I know you can run it just like a storage drive so long as UEFI csm settings are correct.


----------



## Frankiee

bee144 said:


> Also, the unofficial BIOS that was provided in 1/2018 now contains outdated microcode 42A, which fails most spectre validation programs.
> 
> Downloading the attached file in post #1 will install the latest microcode to 42C.
> 
> http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/ucode-fix-for-spectre-ht-bug-fix-and-meltdown.806451/



It would be nice if someone (@WannaBeOCer or someone else) could prepare an updated R4BE BIOS including those latest microcode patches (and maybe even with other updates, like NVME support) for those of us who do not dare to dabble with custom BIOS 

TIA, would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Frankiee said:


> It would be nice if someone (@WannaBeOCer or someone else) could prepare an updated R4BE BIOS including those latest microcode patches (and maybe even with other updates, like NVME support) for those of us who do not dare to dabble with custom BIOS
> 
> TIA, would be greatly appreciated!


The bios they work with to provide us updates has NVME support and I believe anything else that could be pertinent.


----------



## bee144

Madmaxneo said:


> Frankiee said:
> 
> 
> 
> It would be nice if someone (@WannaBeOCer or someone else) could prepare an updated R4BE BIOS including those latest microcode patches (and maybe even with other updates, like NVME support) for those of us who do not dare to dabble with custom BIOS /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> TIA, would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> The bios they work with to provide us updates has NVME support and I believe anything else that could be pertinent.
Click to expand...

No, it’s missing the latest 42C microcode from Intel.

Their custom bios used 42A, which is now considered out of date and insufficient against spectre.


----------



## 113802

Here you go an updated UEFI with microcode 42C. It has Nvme and the latest Intel Lan Pro OROM.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=17t7oQH1ulBJtnJlpLixXbe2w5Ze9eRnT


----------



## Frankiee

WannaBeOCer said:


> Here you go an updated UEFI with microcode 42C. It has Nvme and the latest Intel Lan Pro OROM.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=17t7oQH1ulBJtnJlpLixXbe2w5Ze9eRnT



Thanks a lot! :thumbsups


----------



## bee144

WannaBeOCer said:


> Here you go an updated UEFI with microcode 42C. It has Nvme and the latest Intel Lan Pro OROM.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=17t7oQH1ulBJtnJlpLixXbe2w5Ze9eRnT


Thank you very much! I assume 42C won't be the last microcode. Would you mind sharing whatever guide you follow to inject the microcode into the BIOS. I'd love to provide support for fellow RIVBE users (including myself).


----------



## Shadowarez

how hard does this effect i7 4960x cpus performance wise?


----------



## 113802

bee144 said:


> Thank you very much! I assume 42C won't be the last microcode. Would you mind sharing whatever guide you follow to inject the microcode into the BIOS. I'd love to provide support for fellow RIVBE users (including myself).


This is the guide I've followed for the past 4 years. https://www.win-raid.com/t154f16-Tool-Guide-News-quot-UEFI-BIOS-Updater-quot-UBU.html

This is the guide I followed to add NVMe support. https://www.win-raid.com/t871f50-Gu...rt-for-all-Systems-with-an-AMI-UEFI-BIOS.html


----------



## Madmaxneo

WannaBeOCer said:


> Here you go an updated UEFI with microcode 42C. It has Nvme and the latest Intel Lan Pro OROM.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=17t7oQH1ulBJtnJlpLixXbe2w5Ze9eRnT





WannaBeOCer said:


> This is the guide I've followed for the past 4 years. https://www.win-raid.com/t154f16-Tool-Guide-News-quot-UEFI-BIOS-Updater-quot-UBU.html
> 
> This is the guide I followed to add NVMe support. https://www.win-raid.com/t871f50-Gu...rt-for-all-Systems-with-an-AMI-UEFI-BIOS.html


Thanks Yet again! 
I just hope with this update I don't start getting the random system freezes that I need to do a hard reset to get my system back up. I am definite it is not associated with the work you do or the bios but this issue seems to start up everytime I get a major windows update (so I am not sure if the bios will affect the same thing). Most of the time it is just a graphics driver issue (event 4101) and I have to use DDU to wipe the driver and do a fresh install with a driver directly from the nvidia website. Then there tends to be some other odd issue that pops up in event viewer. So far the other causes have been an issue with my tablet thinking it was the host PC, an audit event (event 1101), and a couple of others that I don't remember what they are. But other than the graphics driver issue these other ones have only popped up once.


----------



## bee144

Shadowarez said:


> how hard does this effect i7 4960x cpus performance wise?


Didn’t measure it but nothing noticeable. Security is paramount for me so it was a not an option to ignore it.


----------



## Shadowarez

Nice ok I'm bout to sell off my x79 rig do I'll flash the latest custom bios thanks to user here for making one.


----------



## Frankiee

So I tried the latest BIOS @WannaBeOCer provided, but unfortunately it does not work. It says that this file is not a valid UEFI Bios file (see screen). So maybe it is damaged, or am I doing something wrong?


----------



## Frankiee

Never mind, I have found the problem. Seems you need to do a BIOS Flashback using the ROG Connect Button, won't work when doing this from BIOS. Plus, the board did not like the first USB stick I tried, so I had to use another one. However all seems fine now and according to a Test, I am now fully protected. Thanks again!


----------



## Shadowarez

yeah i use a old usb 2.o stick from my isp it has like 500 mb of pace figured for compatability reason ill not use a newer one lol.


----------



## Laithan

*Puzzled*



WannaBeOCer said:


> Here you go an updated UEFI with microcode 42C. It has Nvme and the latest Intel Lan Pro OROM.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=17t7oQH1ulBJtnJlpLixXbe2w5Ze9eRnT



You are awesome brother thank you! I grabbed the file..

As you know I already flashed your 42a rom successfully.. I had no issue whatsoever. 

I even wrote the guide for everyone at the time (see this post for a guide if you need it)
http://www.overclock.net/forum/6-in...ck-edition-owners-club-1505.html#post26553596

but I have tried and tried and no matter what I do I cannot get BIOS Flashback to start... I've obviously done this before... I know I need the right filename (r4be.cap).. I am using the correct USB port... yes it is a USB 2.0 drive and yes either FAT or FAT32 I have literally tried 5 different flash drives.. I've pulled all USB devices out for the flash.. turned the power supply off and on instead of just a shut down..I don't know if I am doing something wrong here.. I mean this is really a no brainer..

*
Here is what happens:*

(1) PC is off. I insert the USB drive into the correct USB port. It flickers for a second (_*this is where I think it is reading the filename(s) in the root of the drive*_)

(2) I hold down the flash button for 3 seconds and where I expect to see either 3 flashes, or 5 flashes... *I see no flashes at all.*. It literally NEVER starts BIOS flashback no matter what I do (held up to 10 seconds):blushsmil.

All this does is reset my BIOS as if I just quickly pushed it. 


*Is it possible the MOD BIOS didn't have BIOS flashback or it is looking for a different filename perhaps?? I am stumped.. *

I understand that I cannot use the flash utility in the BIOS to load a modified BIOS so I don't know how I am going to flash this new 42C..

Any ideas?
Thank you


----------



## xarot

USB FlashBack can be tricky at times...I had problems with it even with my X299 board. Had to search my bag of mixed PC stuff and found the oldest Kingston USB2.0 stick I could find (at least 10 years old), it was the only stick that seemed to work with the USB FlashBack. But when it works it is great.


----------



## Laithan

EDIT:

Thanks for the reply. It is a great suggestion. I am certain this issue is not related to the type/speed/capacity of the USB drive. Just for the record I tried a bunch of them and I am also using the same drive I flashed 42A version of the MOD BIOS previously (just trying to update to the 42C version wannabeocer was not gracious to make for us. It seems to know the drive is inserted because I can see the drive light flicker but will just never start the sequence flashback. I would make a video but it is literally just pushing the button (holding it down) and nothing happens..

I tried renaming to R4E.CAP and that didn't work either.

This is driving me crazy... I thought I had a good idea.. here is what I did (these boards have 2 BIOS'):

(1) I forced a boot with BIOS #2 (0701), verified that this was the old ORIGINAL non-MOD BIOS. 
(2) Copied BIOS #2 to BIOS #1, effectively replacing the 0801 MOD BIOS with the STOCK 0701
(3) Forced BIOS #1 to boot again. Booted back up to verify it worked and it was downgraded to 0701 (The MOD BIOS is 0801). 
(4) Now I tried BIOS flashback - I am now using the SAME exact original USB drive I flashed the older R4BE.CAP w/42A microcode and the same file I successfully used before this January... it still doesn't work.

<sigh> WTH this just worked for me a few months ago lol

(5) I forced BIOS #2 to boot again, powered off and then tried to use BIOS flashback on BIOS #2 and that didn't work either..

<growl> <roar> hah

So now I'm stuck on BIOS 0701 unprotected again and can't even flash the 42A microcode....
I looked all around in the BIOS and I couldn't find any settings to enable or disable BIOS flashback...

I tried EZ Flash2 for the heck of it and it doesn't recognize the R4BE.CAP file as a UEFI BIOS

Is there a way I could re-flash the BIOS flashback ROM itself? _* I did also previously flash the newest MEI firmware could that have messed with anything?*_
<puzzled>
lol

Thanks for the help in advance


----------



## supermiguel

So this new unofficial BIOS, what does it give?


----------



## alancsalt

supermiguel said:


> So this new unofficial BIOS, what does it give?


Has the updated anti Spectre microcode, and.....



WannaBeOCer said:


> Here you go an updated UEFI with microcode 42C. It has Nvme and the latest Intel Lan Pro OROM.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=17t7oQH1ulBJtnJlpLixXbe2w5Ze9eRnT


----------



## 113802

Laithan said:


> EDIT:
> 
> Thanks for the reply. It is a great suggestion. I am certain this issue is not related to the type/speed/capacity of the USB drive. Just for the record I tried a bunch of them and I am also using the same drive I flashed 42A version of the MOD BIOS previously (just trying to update to the 42C version wannabeocer was not gracious to make for us. It seems to know the drive is inserted because I can see the drive light flicker but will just never start the sequence flashback. I would make a video but it is literally just pushing the button (holding it down) and nothing happens..
> 
> I tried renaming to R4E.CAP and that didn't work either.
> 
> This is driving me crazy... I thought I had a good idea.. here is what I did (these boards have 2 BIOS'):
> 
> (1) I forced a boot with BIOS #2 (0701), verified that this was the old ORIGINAL non-MOD BIOS.
> (2) Copied BIOS #2 to BIOS #1, effectively replacing the 0801 MOD BIOS with the STOCK 0701
> (3) Forced BIOS #1 to boot again. Booted back up to verify it worked and it was downgraded to 0701 (The MOD BIOS is 0801).
> (4) Now I tried BIOS flashback - I am now using the SAME exact original USB drive I flashed the older R4BE.CAP w/42A microcode and the same file I successfully used before this January... it still doesn't work.
> 
> <sigh> WTH this just worked for me a few months ago lol
> 
> (5) I forced BIOS #2 to boot again, powered off and then tried to use BIOS flashback on BIOS #2 and that didn't work either..
> 
> <growl> <roar> hah
> 
> So now I'm stuck on BIOS 0701 unprotected again and can't even flash the 42A microcode....
> I looked all around in the BIOS and I couldn't find any settings to enable or disable BIOS flashback...
> 
> I tried EZ Flash2 for the heck of it and it doesn't recognize the R4BE.CAP file as a UEFI BIOS
> 
> Is there a way I could re-flash the BIOS flashback ROM itself? _* I did also previously flash the newest MEI firmware could that have messed with anything?*_
> <puzzled>
> lol
> 
> Thanks for the help in advance


The name should be exactly how it is in the download(R4BE.CAP). ME Firmware shouldn't cause any problems using flashback. Make sure you are using a USB 2.0 flash drive format FAT32 and plugged into the right port.

"R4BE.CAP"


----------



## Laithan

Yes sir, thanks for the reply. You may have missed that part but I am using the *identical USB drive* I used to flash it the first time.. even with the original 42A MOD still on the drive... BIOS flashback is not working at all and I am puzzled why... I can't flash the 42A file and I cannot flash the 42C file either..

This one for sure isn't USER ERROR  lol

Since the last time I flashed the 42A ROM successfully the only other thing I did try (you may remember helping me with this) was to flash the recommended ME firmware and I *did* have issues doing this and bricked my board until I was able to recover it by forcing BIOS 2 to boot via the red switch on the motherboard and then using a COPY BIOS 2 to BIOS 1, that allowed the board to boot again with BIOS 1. So literally from January until now my system is 100% identical hardware and the only difference was updating the ME firmware (had issues) and updating to the new MOD BIOS with 42A (no issues at all doing this at the time)...

Now, it just won't work anymore..
<puzzled>

I am betting it has something to do with the bad flash of ME...

*Q.>* Is there any other way to flash this MOD BIOS without using BIOS flashback?

*Q.>* Is there any way to re-flash *BIOS flashback* because it seems to have been affected by my ME flash somehow.

Any other ideas please?
Thank you


----------



## 113802

Laithan said:


> Yes sir, thanks for the reply. You may have missed that part but I am using the *identical USB drive* I used to flash it the first time.. even with the original 42A MOD still on the drive... BIOS flashback is not working at all and I am puzzled why... I can't flash the 42A file and I cannot flash the 42C file either..
> 
> This one for sure isn't USER ERROR  lol
> 
> Since the last time I flashed the 42A ROM successfully the only other thing I did try (you may remember helping me with this) was to flash the recommended ME firmware and I *did* have issues doing this and bricked my board until I was able to recover it by forcing BIOS 2 to boot via the red switch on the motherboard and then using a COPY BIOS 2 to BIOS 1, that allowed the board to boot again with BIOS 1. So literally from January until now my system is 100% identical hardware and the only difference was updating the ME firmware (had issues) and updating to the new MOD BIOS with 42A (no issues at all doing this at the time)...
> 
> Now, it just won't work anymore..
> <puzzled>
> 
> I am betting it has something to do with the bad flash of ME...
> 
> *Q.>* Is there any other way to flash this MOD BIOS without using BIOS flashback?
> 
> *Q.>* Is there any way to re-flash *BIOS flashback* because it seems to have been affected by my ME flash somehow.
> 
> Any other ideas please?
> Thank you


Let's investigate a bit to see if your ME is corrupt. Please download the correct Intel (CS)ME System Tools and run MEInfo within the zip from this link. If you get this error the ME region is corrupt and needs to be flash. "Communication error between application and Intel<r> ME module (FW Update Client)" I also would suggest flashing 0801 from Asus on both bios chips.

https://www.win-raid.com/t596f39-Intel-Management-Engine-Drivers-Firmware-amp-System-Tools.html


----------



## Laithan

WannaBeOCer said:


> Let's investigate a bit to see if your ME is corrupt. Please download the correct Intel (CS)ME System Tools and run MEInfo within the zip from this link. If you get this error the ME region is corrupt and needs to be flash. "Communication error between application and Intel<r> ME module (FW Update Client)" I also would suggest flashing 0801 from Asus on both bios chips.
> 
> https://www.win-raid.com/t596f39-Intel-Management-Engine-Drivers-Firmware-amp-System-Tools.html


Thank you
I downloaded the system tools for C600 series however I am not clear if I am on v7 or v8 so I checked both JIC and I get the same error message (attached)

I will go look for the official 0801 BIOS and flash that now... I will try BIOS flashback again for giggles and if not use EZFlash2 and report results.
Appreciate the help (I don't ask unless I really need it lol)


----------



## Laithan

I downloaded the official 0801 from ASUS. I put it on the known working USB drive and tried BIOS flashback... and it did not work. 

I used the EZFlash2 in the BIOS and I was able to successfully flash 0801 to BIOS 1. After flashing I made sure I was able to boot up. 

Shut down again, put the USB 2.0 drive in the correct USB port and tried to use BIOS flashback now that 0801 was flashed and unfortunately it still does not work (I was even trying to just flash the STOCK 0801) 

Checked the Meinfo tool again and still get the same error with that as well.

So we've verified I have a corrupt ME firmware?

It appears ASUS must have hidden the BIOS flashback code there.. or ?

hmmm


----------



## 113802

Laithan said:


> I downloaded the official 0801 from ASUS. I put it on the known working USB drive and tried BIOS flashback... and it did not work.
> 
> I used the EZFlash2 in the BIOS and I was able to successfully flash 0801 to BIOS 1. After flashing I made sure I was able to boot up.
> 
> Shut down again, put the USB 2.0 drive in the correct USB port and tried to use BIOS flashback now that 0801 was flashed and unfortunately it still does not work (I was even trying to just flash the STOCK 0801)
> 
> Checked the Meinfo tool again and still get the same error with that as well.
> 
> So we've verified I have a corrupt ME firmware?
> 
> It appears ASUS must have hidden the BIOS flashback code there.. or ?
> 
> hmmm


Can you try to flash this latest ME for your board. http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mi...01.1568871287.1523501584-892627995.1523501584

That's a download link directly from their site. If that doesn't fix it the ME Region needs to be flashed. I'll have to look for instructions since I haven't done it since 2014.

Edit: Also check which version you currently have by checking the bios Main page. Should Say "ME Version"


----------



## Laithan

That helped get MEInfo to work. I guess I must have removed the management driver (is that more secure? I don't need any remote management lol)





Code:


Intel(R) MEInfo Version: 8.1.56.1541
Copyright(C) 2005 - 2014, Intel Corporation. All rights reserved.

Intel(R) ME code versions:

BIOS Version:                           0801
MEBx Version:                           Not available
Gbe Version:                            1.3
VendorID:                               8086
PCH Version:                            6
FW Version:                             8.1.51.1471
UNS Version:                            Not Available
LMS Version:                            11.0.0.1156
MEI Driver Version:                     11.0.0.1155
Wireless Hardware Version:              Not Available
Wireless Driver Version:                Not Available

FW Capabilities:                        0x00110440

    Intel(R) Capability Licensing Service - PRESENT/ENABLED
    Intel(R) Dynamic Application Loader - PRESENT/ENABLED

Cryptography Support:                   Disabled
Last ME reset reason:                   Power up
Local FWUpdate:                         Enabled
BIOS Config Lock:                       Disabled
GbE Config Lock:                        Disabled
Host Read Access to ME:                 Disabled
Host Write Access to ME:                Disabled
SPI Flash ID #1:                        EF4017
SPI Flash ID VSCC #1:                   20052005
SPI Flash BIOS VSCC:                    20052005
BIOS boot State:                        Post Boot
OEM Id:                                 00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000
Capability Licensing Service:           Enabled
OEM Tag:                                0x00000000
Localized Language:                     Unknown
Independent Firmware Recovery:          Disabled


----------



## 113802

Laithan said:


> That helped get MEInfo to work. I guess I must have removed the management driver (is that more secure? I don't need any remote management lol


Looks like it was a bad ME flash which corrupted your ME region. Glad that fixed it.

Now you can follow this guide to flash the actual latest from Intel. Did flashing via flashback work after repairing your ME? 

https://www.win-raid.com/t596f39-Intel-Management-Engine-Drivers-Firmware-amp-System-Tools.html


----------



## supermiguel

alancsalt said:


> Has the updated anti Spectre microcode, and.....


Awesome, so which Nvme you guys buying? any in particular? i have an pcie to m.2 adapter (ASUS Hyper M.2 x 4 MINI), after flash i can use any m.2 i want?


----------



## Laithan

WannaBeOCer said:


> Looks like it was a bad ME flash which corrupted your ME region. Glad that fixed it.
> 
> Now you can follow this guide to flash the actual latest from Intel. Did flashing via flashback work after repairing your ME?
> 
> https://www.win-raid.com/t596f39-Intel-Management-Engine-Drivers-Firmware-amp-System-Tools.html


No sir... BIOS Flashback is still not working at all.. like the feature doesn't exist anymore..

This looks like the right one



Code:


Intel ME 8 1.5MB Firmware v8.1.70.1590
For 6/7/X79/C600/C210-series systems which come with ME 1.5MB v8

Fingers crossed 




Code:


Intel (R) Firmware Update Utility Version: 8.1.72.3002
Copyright (C) 2007 - 2014, Intel Corporation.  All rights reserved.

Communication Mode: MEI
Checking firmware parameters...

Warning: Do not exit the process or power off the machine before the firmware up
date process ends.
Sending the update image to FW for verification:  [ COMPLETE ]

FW Update:  [ 100% (Stage: 19 of 19) (-)]
FW Update is complete and a reboot will run the new FW.

C:\Intel ME Firmware v8.1.70.1590 (1.5MB)>

and verified



Code:


Intel(R) MEInfo Version: 8.1.56.1541
Copyright(C) 2005 - 2014, Intel Corporation. All rights reserved.

Intel(R) ME code versions:

BIOS Version:                           0801
MEBx Version:                           Not available
Gbe Version:                            1.3
VendorID:                               8086
PCH Version:                            6
FW Version:                             8.1.70.1590
UNS Version:                            Not Available
LMS Version:                            11.0.0.1156
MEI Driver Version:                     11.0.0.1155
Wireless Hardware Version:              Not Available
Wireless Driver Version:                Not Available

FW Capabilities:                        0x00110440

    Intel(R) Capability Licensing Service - PRESENT/ENABLED
    Intel(R) Dynamic Application Loader - PRESENT/ENABLED

Cryptography Support:                   Disabled
Last ME reset reason:                   Power up
Local FWUpdate:                         Enabled
BIOS Config Lock:                       Disabled
GbE Config Lock:                        Disabled
Host Read Access to ME:                 Disabled
Host Write Access to ME:                Disabled
SPI Flash ID #1:                        EF4017
SPI Flash ID VSCC #1:                   20052005
SPI Flash BIOS VSCC:                    20052005
BIOS boot State:                        Post Boot
OEM Id:                                 00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000
Capability Licensing Service:           Enabled
OEM Tag:                                0x00000000
Localized Language:                     Unknown
Independent Firmware Recovery:          Disabled


-----

_*Unfortunately BIOS Flashback still doesn't function*_ :doh:


----------



## Laithan

On another note, can Intel ME (Management Engine) be turned off on the RIVBE?

https://hackaday.com/2017/12/11/what-you-need-to-know-about-the-intel-management-engine/


----------



## Mega Man

Can you please show be a screen shot of the whole window of your flashdrive. I am pretty sure it is 100% user error, the BIOS flashback is an independent system, which only needs PC board and psu to function. Iirc it does not even need ram or CPU, though I may be mistaken.


I have corrupted entire BIOS and it still worked...


----------



## Laithan

Mega Man said:


> Can you please show be a screen shot of the whole window of your flashdrive. I am pretty sure it is 100% user error, the BIOS flashback is an independent system, which only needs PC board and psu to function. Iirc it does not even need ram or CPU, though I may be mistaken.
> 
> 
> I have corrupted entire BIOS and it still worked...


Thank you for the reply. I hear ya.. trust me this is driving me absolutely bonkers...*I hope it is just me doing something wrong lol.*. *PLEASE let it be*  but it's not... lol
As seen below there is nothing else on the drive. I even showed there are no hidden files. I did have a couple saved .CMO files but I removed them and tried again JUST to be sure, and it's still not working. 

This is the _EXACT same_ USB drive I used before and known working with BIOS flashback.. I tired 6 other drives too.. not kidding... but I'm sticking with the known working one for all the testing. 

Back in January, when I originally tried flashing the ME firmware I did have some trouble and ended up trying to use an alternate flash program. The flash was successful but that's when I lost the ability to boot from BIOS #1. It has to be that flash process that affected BIOS flashback.. it's just gone.. 



Code:


F:\>dir /ah
 Volume in drive F is FLASH
 Volume Serial Number is E89A-9872

 Directory of F:\

File Not Found

F:\>dir
 Volume in drive F is FLASH
 Volume Serial Number is E89A-9872

 Directory of F:\

07/14/2014  05:57 PM         8,390,656 R4BE.CAP
               1 File(s)      8,390,656 bytes
               0 Dir(s)      57,931,776 bytes free

F:\>


and yes flashback will work without a CPU installed


----------



## xarot

Have you tried another file system besides FAT? Try FAT32.


----------



## Mega Man

That isn't a picture of it. I want to see it open in Windows.


----------



## 113802

Laithan said:


> Thank you for the reply. I hear ya.. trust me this is driving me absolutely bonkers...*I hope it is just me doing something wrong lol.*. *PLEASE let it be*  but it's not... lol
> As seen below there is nothing else on the drive. I even showed there are no hidden files. I did have a couple saved .CMO files but I removed them and tried again JUST to be sure, and it's still not working.
> 
> This is the _EXACT same_ USB drive I used before and known working with BIOS flashback.. I tired 6 other drives too.. not kidding... but I'm sticking with the known working one for all the testing.
> 
> Back in January, when I originally tried flashing the ME firmware I did have some trouble and ended up trying to use an alternate flash program. The flash was successful but that's when I lost the ability to boot from BIOS #1. It has to be that flash process that affected BIOS flashback.. it's just gone..
> 
> 
> and yes flashback will work without a CPU installed



I had the same issue with my RIVBE but I believe it was some odd UEFI bug. I think I ended up flashing an older bios from Asus than it started to work again. Make sure it's a USB 2.0 drive.


----------



## Laithan

xarot said:


> Have you tried another file system besides FAT? Try FAT32.


Thanks. It is known working with FAT. The drive is only 64 megabyte. This is a known working drive with flashback.




Mega Man said:


> That isn't a picture of it. I want to see it open in Windows.


As requested sir




WannaBeOCer said:


> I had the same issue with my RIVBE but I believe it was some odd UEFI bug. I think I ended up flashing an older bios from Asus than it started to work again. Make sure it's a USB 2.0 drive.


Oh you did have this issue also? *Glad I'm not the only one. *

Flashing older releases, something I have not tried for sure. I will flash the oldest BIOS I can find and then flash each release incrementally until 0801. I will try flashback for each increment before moving to the next.

Could there be different parameters to flash "a portion of the BIOS" vs "the FULL BIOS"?
Does anyone know for sure that BIOS flashback code is actually contained in the UEFI BIOS? Do you see the code for it there?


----------



## supermiguel

WannaBeOCer said:


> Here you go an updated UEFI with microcode 42C. It has Nvme and the latest Intel Lan Pro OROM.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=17t7oQH1ulBJtnJlpLixXbe2w5Ze9eRnT


So i flashed this using the bios flashback method, is there a way to check if it flashed correctly?


----------



## Madmaxneo

supermiguel said:


> So i flashed this using the bios flashback method, is there a way to check if it flashed correctly?


IF it starts up fine I'd say that is a pretty good indication it flashed correctly. But otherwise you can check in the bios to ensure it updated correctly. Check the date of the bios that is installed.....


----------



## supermiguel

Madmaxneo said:


> IF it starts up fine I'd say that is a pretty good indication it flashed correctly. But otherwise you can check in the bios to ensure it updated correctly. Check the date of the bios that is installed.....


wouldnt that say 0801 released date?


----------



## Laithan

You can check for the presence of NVMe support in the BIOS since it was added or you can run the spectre validation tool to see if you are still vulnerable to the exploit


----------



## Madmaxneo

supermiguel said:


> wouldnt that say 0801 released date?


Not if the one who updated it with the latest micro code changed the date, it should read more recent....


----------



## supermiguel

I can see the drive in the BIOS i guess thats good news... So i will do a brand new windows 10 install... Should i still get the mobo drivers from the Asus website?


----------



## Laithan

I'm so happy! BIOS flashback is working yay!
I'm now on 42C

Thank you so much WannaBeOCer, my Intel ME is all patched up to the latest firmware, I'm on the latest microcode and 0801 overclocks so much better than 0701

I flashed 0507 (wouldn't allow me to flash 0403)
then 0602
then 0603
then 0701
then 0801
then I was able to BIOS flashback 0801 mod w/42C microcode 

:thumb:


----------



## Laithan

Here is a little comparison between the performance impact of Microcode *42A* vs *42C* for all AIDA64 CPU/FPU tests

Spoiler, 42C is faster in almost all tests

Enjoy!


----------



## 113802

supermiguel said:


> So i flashed this using the bios flashback method, is there a way to check if it flashed correctly?


Best way to check would be entering the UEFI and navigating to Advanced>CPU Configuration 

Make sure the Microcode Patch is "42C"


----------



## Laithan

WannaBeOCer said:


> Best way to check would be entering the UEFI and navigating to Advanced>CPU Configuration
> 
> Make sure the Microcode Patch is "42C"


Yes that is the best way actually, should have thought of that it's right there under CPU info. 

New 42C BIOS is working great so far, thanks again brother. You're da man (and ASUS well... they dropped the ball)


----------



## supermiguel

WannaBeOCer said:


> Best way to check would be entering the UEFI and navigating to Advanced>CPU Configuration
> 
> Make sure the Microcode Patch is "42C"


mine says 713 but nvme is working... maybe im looking at the wrong place? ill post pic in a sec

Edit: pic


----------



## Laithan

The truth has been spoken below... lol


----------



## 113802

supermiguel said:


> WannaBeOCer said:
> 
> 
> 
> Best way to check would be entering the UEFI and navigating to Advanced>CPU Configuration
> 
> Make sure the Microcode Patch is "42C"
> 
> 
> 
> mine says 713 but nvme is working... maybe im looking at the wrong place? ill post pic in a sec
> 
> Edit: pic
Click to expand...

That is correct, sorry forgot about Sandy Bridge-E. The microcode for Sandy Bridge-E is 713 and Ivy Bridge-E is 42C

The UEFI flashed correctly.


----------



## Kimir

Have you done the R4E bios with the new microcode too by any chances?


----------



## zoomcopter

Lads, do you have any advice? After 36 hours without sleep, I ended up ordering 2 Rampage 6s and one Maximus IX Extreme. Also ordered a Titan V graphics card, an Intel IX card, as well as the new blue Occ. Rift (this after the computer I bought made-to-order for $6k 1.5 years ago would NOT ALLOW ME TO PLAY VR and said something like my computer "lacked the capacity to run the Occ Rift." I feel so lost, have no idea if I can install my motherboard (or which one I should install). I just spent another $2,700 to get a new shell for my computer and a new HD as well as various other accoutrements trying to get the computer I want. 

Any advice any of you might have would be greatly, greatly appreciated exp. w. regard to the 3 different motherboards I have (2 Rampage 6 and one Maximus IX so I can get back ~$1,200-$1,400). Thanks so much, this site is the one beacon on sanity in a world of trash on what the internet has become.....


----------



## 113802

Kimir said:


> Have you done the R4E bios with the new microcode too by any chances?


Sorry my support for the R4E and other Rampage 4 boards beside the BE are EOL.

(kidding I'll try to get to it this afternoon)


----------



## Laithan

Where is the REP system/button... everyone with these boards needs to be smashing it for *WannaBeOCer*.. this is a seriously good BIOS/guidance to have. Not only does it address Specture & Meltdown but there is also info provided to update your Intel management engine to patch critical flaws (more than one), add nVME support, updates the Intel NIC firmware and most of all this BIOS allows far better overclocking for both memory and CPU compared to 0701, at least for me.. I can push 4.9Ghz with this BIOS for a benchmark which is a full 100+ Mhz more than I could get with 0701 (with less voltage too). I can run 4.8Ghz "daily driver" and with 0701 I had to back down to 4.7Ghz.

I can't think of a better gift for our RIVBE's
:thumb:

http://www.overclock.net/forum/3-ov...s-information/1670345-rep-system-rebuild.html


----------



## mossberg385t

Hi,

I have 64gb of ram that is showing as 16gb in windows and in the bios. The bios shows all dimms populated and the correct info as well as speccy, have tried clearing CMOS and also tried different ram but it seems only 2 slots are actually being used.

I did spill some mayhems x1 when I was filling the loop and cleaned it off with isopropyl, it worked fine for a few days then restarted and now this. 

Any ideas?


----------



## Shadowarez

Hit the Mem Ok button on board redirect the OC


----------



## mossberg385t

No luck with Mem Ok, what do you mean by redirect the OC? 

I also updated the bios


----------



## Shadowarez

Odd I had that issue with my 32 GB kit I hit mem ok *reset my OC found xmp wasn't working. I manually set DDR to 2400nhz MN


----------



## 113802

mossberg385t said:


> I have 64gb of ram that is showing as 16gb in windows and in the bios. The bios shows all dimms populated and the correct info as well as speccy


This part confused me. Does the motherboard see 64GB of ram or not? If so which Windows version are you running?


Edit: Noticed Windows 10 Enterprise. If the bios sees 64GB set it here. https://thetechreviewer.com/tech-tips/fix-windows-81-recognizing-installed-ram/

Reason I ask is because Windows 7 has ram limits.

Starter: 8GB
Home Basic: 8GB
Home Premium: 16GB
Professional: 192GB
Enterprise: 192GB
Ultimate: 192GB


----------



## mossberg385t

I should clarify it, shows all of the dimms being populated in the bios but the bios shows 16gb installed as well


----------



## Kimir

WannaBeOCer said:


> Sorry my support for the R4E and other Rampage 4 boards beside the BE are EOL.
> 
> (kidding I'll try to get to it this afternoon)


:applaud: You're awesome! 
No hurry 



Laithan said:


> Where is the REP system/button... everyone with these boards needs to be smashing it for *WannaBeOCer*.. this is a seriously good BIOS/guidance to have. Not only does it address Specture & Meltdown but there is also info provided to update your Intel management engine to patch critical flaws (more than one), add nVME support, updates the Intel NIC firmware and most of all this BIOS allows far better overclocking for both memory and CPU compared to 0701, at least for me.. I can push 4.9Ghz with this BIOS for a benchmark which is a full 100+ Mhz more than I could get with 0701 (with less voltage too). I can run 4.8Ghz "daily driver" and with 0701 I had to back down to 4.7Ghz.
> 
> I can't think of a better gift for our RIVBE's
> :thumb:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/3-ov...s-information/1670345-rep-system-rebuild.html


I know right, takes forever to get one of the most important feature we had...


----------



## supermiguel

With this Nvme update can i run the ASUS Hyper M.2 x16 ?


----------



## Clos

supermiguel said:


> With this Nvme update can i run the ASUS Hyper M.2 x16 ?


Should be able to, as long at you install a NVME SDD into the Asus card. I'm running a 1.2gb intel NVME PCI-E SSD without a hitch. boots up as os drive and all.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

I think nvme is the best upgrade ive done on this board :yessir:


----------



## Clos

WannaBeOCer said:


> Here you go an updated UEFI with microcode 42C. It has Nvme and the latest Intel Lan Pro OROM.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=17t7oQH1ulBJtnJlpLixXbe2w5Ze9eRnT


This post should be sticky'd to the top of the page, then whenever they fix the 'rep' system we can all find it easily and +rep the heck out of WannaBeOCer


----------



## Clos

Also, on a side note... Anyone know where i can get a nice super stubby antenna that fits on our boards? instead of using tall bunny ears or the original asus magnetic antenna? 

I ask because i don't even use the wifi, but i'd like to put something there at least for the Bluetooth, and i have an inWin S frame which hovers almost right above the antenna terminals...

Thanks!


----------



## funkmetal

Hey was curious if its finally time to upgrade from this board and a 4930k for gaming and streaming? Thoughts?


----------



## Laithan

RIVBE is no where near end of life unless you NEED more than 8 cores (16 w/HT), it would likely be a waste of time and money.

Gaming still only needs 4-6 cores, 8 at the most with really recent titles. 

Intel just re-brands the same tech over and over.. not really many differences TBH except cores

Long live RIVBE (and Windows 7 lol)


----------



## Penryn

Lets stay on topic


----------



## Madmaxneo

Penryn said:


> Lets stay on topic


Umm no one has been off topic in the last page....


----------



## bee144

Madmaxneo said:


> Penryn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lets stay on topic /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Umm no one has been off topic in the last page....
Click to expand...

Many posts were deleted 🙂


----------



## Kimir

bee144 said:


> Many posts were deleted 🙂


censorship, am I right?


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have decided to go ahead and purchase a m.2 NVME drive for this board. I found a decent drive for a good price but now I need a good PCIe adapter that works with this board. 

I see several dual boards that support two m.2 NVME drives but will the dual adapters work correctly with this board? 
I found these so far: Silverstone (dual adapter), Mailiya, QNINE, and this Rivo. I really don't know these brands except for maybe the Silverstone one and I have no idea the reliability of any of them.

For those that have jumped on the NVME train, what PCIe adapter did you use?


----------



## Madmaxneo

@WannaBeOCer

Any chance you'll be working on the new spectre patch anytime soon?

New Spectre vulnerability


----------



## bee144

Madmaxneo said:


> @WannaBeOCer
> 
> Any chance you'll be working on the new spectre patch anytime soon?
> 
> New Spectre vulnerability


Intel needs to release the microcode updates so that it can be injected into the BIOS. Until then, we can’t do anything.


----------



## Madmaxneo

bee144 said:


> Intel needs to release the microcode updates so that it can be injected into the BIOS. Until then, we can’t do anything.


According to the article "it has already delivered the beta microcode update to OEM system manufacturers and software vendors", or do you mean publicly? 

You guys do great work in getting us these updates and it is much appreciated. I am about to install my first NVME drive with a fresh windows install and I just saw that article today. I was thinking of waiting on an update but will probably go ahead with the NVME install tomorrow.


----------



## bee144

Madmaxneo said:


> According to the article "it has already delivered the beta microcode update to OEM system manufacturers and software vendors", or do you mean publicly?
> 
> You guys do great work in getting us these updates and it is much appreciated. I am about to install my first NVME drive with a fresh windows install and I just saw that article today. I was thinking of waiting on an update but will probably go ahead with the NVME install tomorrow.


We need the below link to be updated from Intel. The last update was 4/25, in which 42C is still the latest version. The files in the below download are what get injected into the BIOS.

https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/27776/Linux-Processor-Microcode-Data-File

This is further confirmed by Microsoft in the below doc that 42C is still the most recent version.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4090007/intel-microcode-updates

The RIVBE is my daily driver so rest assured, if WannaBeOCer doesn't get to it, I will and I'll share the file in a timely manor. 

I will be dumping my RIVBE for an Intel X399 or Z390 system when those come out later this year though.


----------



## Madmaxneo

bee144 said:


> We need the below link to be updated from Intel. The last update was 4/25, in which 42C is still the latest version. The files in the below download are what get injected into the BIOS.
> 
> https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/27776/Linux-Processor-Microcode-Data-File
> 
> This is further confirmed by Microsoft in the below doc that 42C is still the most recent version.
> 
> https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4090007/intel-microcode-updates
> 
> The RIVBE is my daily driver so rest assured, if wannacryer doesn't get to it, I will and I'll share the file in a timely manor.
> 
> I will be dumping my RIVBE for an Intel X399 or Z390 system when those come out later this year though.


Thanks ahead of time. So it seems the article is a little misleading then by saying it is released already. 
I also read that the vulnerability is not as bad as the previous ones and they're making activation of it optional.


----------



## MsNikita

Hey guys, 

I still have this beautiful board with an old i7-3960X overclocked to 4.4Ghz, populated to 64GB and a GTX-970 SSC laying around. 
I'm wondering, would this system still be viable as a dedicated streaming box running OBS and broadcasting at 900p? 

Cheers.


----------



## 113802

bee144 said:


> We need the below link to be updated from Intel. The last update was 4/25, in which 42C is still the latest version. The files in the below download are what get injected into the BIOS.
> 
> https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/27776/Linux-Processor-Microcode-Data-File
> 
> This is further confirmed by Microsoft in the below doc that 42C is still the most recent version.
> 
> https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4090007/intel-microcode-updates
> 
> The RIVBE is my daily driver so rest assured, if wannacryer doesn't get to it, I will and I'll share the file in a timely manor.
> 
> I will be dumping my RIVBE for an Intel X399 or Z390 system when those come out later this year though.


WannaBeOCer* I won't be releasing any further Rampage IV microcode updates. I have better things to do than support old boards.


----------



## bee144

WannaBeOCer said:


> WannaBeOCer* I won't be releasing any further Rampage IV microcode updates. I have better things to do than support old boards.


Sorry about that! I confused your name with the exploit WannaCry ransomware that North Korea launched in 2017. I updated my post to use your proper handle. Again, my apologies


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey all.
I am trying to install this NVME drive into my system but I am having issues. I have the BIOS that @WannaBeOCer gave us with the 42c microde so it should work just fine. 
But when I go into the bios I see no option to enable the NVME drive in the PCIE port. I tried looking in the boot section and the drive is not even listed. So I am not sure where to go.

I am also having an odd issue where if I do not make any changes in the bios and hit F10 it shows that I supposedly made all these changes from the original [AUTO] setting to a blank setting [], of course I hit exit but do not save every time, so it does not affect anything.

But enabling the NVME drive is perplexing....

@HOMECINEMA-PC
@Clos


----------



## Clos

When you are in the bios. keep hitting the right arrow to move over in the menus. when you pass all the bios options (like overclocking and devices) you'll eventually see the bios update screen. keep going past it, and you'll see the ethernet option screen and THEN you'll switch to the NVME menu. If everything is working properly, you'll have this screen AND you'll see the NVME Drive here. I can send a photo tonight so you can see what i mean when i get home.

Are you posting into UEFI Only Bios? i dont' think NVME works on the old one, nor is that CSM Compatibility mode. (IIRC)

Also what OS are you trying to boot? also, if i remember correctly, W7 does NOT natively support NVME. i think you need at least W8. You probably will NOT see a bootable option for the NVME drive because there is no OS installed to make a boot entry in the UEFI bios.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Clos said:


> When you are in the bios. keep hitting the right arrow to move over in the menus. when you pass all the bios options (like overclocking and devices) you'll eventually see the bios update screen. keep going past it, and you'll see the ethernet option screen and THEN you'll switch to the NVME menu. If everything is working properly, you'll have this screen AND you'll see the NVME Drive here. I can send a photo tonight so you can see what i mean when i get home.
> 
> Are you posting into UEFI Only Bios? i dont' think NVME works on the old one, nor is that CSM Compatibility mode. (IIRC)
> 
> Also what OS are you trying to boot? also, if i remember correctly, W7 does NOT natively support NVME. i think you need at least W8. You probably will NOT see a bootable option for the NVME drive because there is no OS installed to make a boot entry in the UEFI bios.


I believe I figured out what it was, it was my goof. I did not know there was a difference between a NVME Sata drive and a NVME PCIE drive. I have a NVME Sata drive and once I put it in the Sata section of the PCIE Adapter card it showed up in the bios. I have a PCIE NVME card coming tomorrow.......


----------



## 113802

Madmaxneo said:


> I believe I figured out what it was, it was my goof. I did not know there was a difference between a NVME Sata drive and a NVME PCIE drive. I have a NVME Sata drive and once I put it in the Sata section of the PCIE Adapter card it showed up in the bios. I have a PCIE NVME card coming tomorrow.......


Glad you figured out your issue! It's either m.2 SATA or m.2 NVMe. NVMe runs off of the PCI-e lanes while SATA runs off of the SATA ports. While a SATA controller is indeed a PCI device it's usually connected via a subordinate bus. http://info.grcooling.com/nvme-vs-sata-ssd

SATA Express does uses 2 PCI-e lanes but who uses it beside OEMs?


----------



## Clos

there are a couple of drop in PCIe cards that are not m.2. but WBOCer is correct. Glad you figured it out. Sata Express is only for external drives no?
Or are there internal ports on OEM Units?


----------



## Madmaxneo

WannaBeOCer said:


> Glad you figured out your issue! It's either m.2 SATA or m.2 NVMe. NVMe runs off of the PCI-e lanes while SATA runs off of the SATA ports. While a SATA controller is indeed a PCI device it's usually connected via a subordinate bus. http://info.grcooling.com/nvme-vs-sata-ssd
> 
> SATA Express does uses 2 PCI-e lanes but who uses it beside OEMs?





Clos said:


> there are a couple of drop in PCIe cards that are not m.2. but WBOCer is correct. Glad you figured it out. Sata Express is only for external drives no?
> Or are there internal ports on OEM Units?


The first drive I ordered was a WD Blue NVME m.2 SATA drive. It worked fine in the SATA portion of the PCIe card I have. My new drive just came in the mail today, it is a 970 EVO. I also got a second PCIe adapter card just in case. I will be installing it tonight so I probably will not be on again either tonight or tomorrow while I spend what little time after work doing a fresh install of windows, updates, and all the programs I will need to reinstall...lol. Unless of course it doesn't work again.........but I have better hopes now!


----------



## Madmaxneo

@Clos
@WannaBeOCer
I have a new problem. 
First thing. The drive shows up in my bios as bootable, but it is listed as "PATA SS". Not sure if that is reading the drive as a PATA drive or what. 
Second thing is when I am trying to install windows onto it I remove all my other drives first then start the installation. But the installation keeps telling me it can't use the drive because it can't find a partition. Note that I can save files to it just fine. Not sure what is going on here.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I figured it out. First i had to make a primary partition via the command line while in the widows install screen. Then I had another issue where I had to change the drive to a MBR format, again through the command line while in the install screen. Everything seems to be up and running now along with the primary drivers like the graphics and sound blaster drivers. I'm still in the process of loading everything up. 
I was up till 1130 lastnight getting this all straight even though the windows install only took about 20 minutes at best.....


----------



## Clos

such fun, is it not? lol


----------



## 113802

Madmaxneo said:


> I figured it out. First i had to make a primary partition via the command line while in the widows install screen. Then I had another issue where I had to change the drive to a MBR format, again through the command line while in the install screen. Everything seems to be up and running now along with the primary drivers like the graphics and sound blaster drivers. I'm still in the process of loading everything up.
> I was up till 1130 lastnight getting this all straight even though the windows install only took about 20 minutes at best.....


Sorry to tell you but you installed Windows incorrectly. NVMe will show up as a "PATA SS" device but will show up correctly in the Windows install screen. Reformat your SSD and convert it back to GPT. Like others mentioned if you are trying to install Windows 7 or 8 you will need to load the NVMe driver. Windows 10 I believe 1607 was the first to add a native NVMe driver. Or maybe you booted the installer in MBR not UEFI? 

The first drive you purchased was a m.2 SATA drive. WD black drives are NVMe. m.2 is just the form factor while NVMe/SATA are protocols.

https://www.wdc.com/products/internal-ssd/wd-blue-3d-nand-sata-ssd.html


----------



## Madmaxneo

Clos said:


> such fun, is it not? lol


Loads of fun. I've gained much from this experience....lol. 


WannaBeOCer said:


> Sorry to tell you but you installed Windows incorrectly. NVMe will show up as a "PATA SS" device but will show up correctly in the Windows install screen. Reformat your SSD and convert it back to GPT. Like others mentioned if you are trying to install Windows 7 or 8 you will need to load the NVMe driver. Windows 10 I believe 1607 was the first to add a native NVMe driver. Or maybe you booted the installer in MBR not UEFI?
> 
> The first drive you purchased was a m.2 SATA drive. WD black drives are NVMe. m.2 is just the form factor while NVMe/SATA are protocols.
> 
> https://www.wdc.com/products/internal-ssd/wd-blue-3d-nand-sata-ssd.html


Yeah I figured out the drive differences when I discovered it would not work in the PCIe slot of the adapter card but would work in the SATA slot of the same card. Like I said I did not know there were two basic kinds of NVME drives. Either way I got it all figured out. 

My goof above I said MBR but meant GPT. I was at work and very tired when I wrote that. 
I was so tired that I drank a Monster energy drink and it had absolutely no effect on me, and I don't drink energy drinks but like once every couple of months....lol.


----------



## deanorthk

got my RIBE for 8 months now, with a 4960X, 16Go of DDR3 (plan to upgrade to 32gb if I can find a set). and I'm extremelly happy with this setup, with the 1080TI FTW3, it's rock stable.
OS installed on a 960evo on a silverstone pcie nvme adaptator. 
I can't find any good reason to upgrade anything unless my system dies


----------



## SparkyBoy006

*Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE Drivers and BIOS 6/7/18 Spectre/Meltdown Update & NVMe*

Download the Latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE Driver/BIOS Pack HERE
_MD5_: e249d68f7826d82abca0c81b111373a5*
Read the included ReadMe files for any special instructions or notes!*

*Updated on 6/7/18:*
*DRIVERS:*
-Intel_Chipset_10.1.17667.8082
-Intel_LAN_23.2 (Will fix Intel ANS (Advanced Network Services - Teaming and VLANs) on Windows 10 1803)
-Intel_RST_Drivers_&_Software_Set_v16.0.10.1104 (will stop hanging/crashing on Windows 10 1803.. install right away)
-Realtek_HDAudio_8454

WARNING: Per Intel instructions, make sure to disable Bitlocker (if you have it enabled) before flashing BIOS with CPU Microcode update! (You can safely re-enable after flashing)

See History of Releases HERE


----------



## deanorthk

wahou thanks a lot


----------



## OLmer

Though I don't have this mb, I'm the lucky owner of i7-4960x 3330A936
Got it randomly from ebay.
It runs perfectly 4.7ghz at 1.35v and I feel like I don't need those extra 100mhz at 1.5v


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

My rigs still running strong


----------



## Shadowarez

Same but I'm bout to sell whole system board, case, PSU, GPU, ram, liquid cooler H240x, SSDs and 8 Tb storage drive to put a partial payment on next Titan so long as it not maxwell 3.0.


----------



## Madmaxneo

My system is still going strong, especially with the OS now running off the NVME drive!


----------



## eqjedi1

*serious network problem with windows 10*

I can't get mine to recognize internet connection in Windows 10 and also can't connect to any networks... only lets me sign in to a temporary account =(


----------



## Shadowarez

Need the win 10 drivers they are in this thread few pages back. 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Madmaxneo

eqjedi1 said:


> I can't get mine to recognize internet connection in Windows 10 and also can't connect to any networks... only lets me sign in to a temporary account =(


By temporary account do you mean a temporary windows account? If not then please explain further.


----------



## Ictinike

Hey all.. Have had the R4BE since it came out in my current build and working great but got around to the ASUS forums and saw the modded BIOS for Spectre and Meltdown.

Currently running spec in my rig below but basically an i7 4390K on this R4BE and reading into the directions I've been able to update the Intel MEI Firmware to the proper v8 but cannot seem to update the Intel MEI Driver in Windows 10. Removing the installed software, trying to re-install the newer from the pack fails, as well doing it the old way via 'Update Driver' in Computer Management works but comes back with the prior version.



Modded BIOS Instructions said:


> ------------------------
> NOTE: You need to have Intel_MEI_11.0.6.1194 driver installed first.
> After BIOS update, run MEtool.exe found in RIVBE Flashback BIOS\Intel MEI 8.1.70.1590 folder to update Management Engine Interface firmware to 8.1.70.1590
> (this only needs to be done once and future BIOS flashes will not change it to an older version)
> 
> ------------------------


As I was reading the install instructions about updating the BIOS, IMEI Firmware and driver I was led to believe I *need* to install the IMEI FW and Driver first and then flash the modded BIOS but hoping someone here can show me the error in my ways. Before I have a system I cannot use [and I work from home 60hrs per week on this system] I wanted to ask.



Old Driver even after install of new catalog packages said:


>



Thanks all!
~Ictinike


----------



## Shadowarez

Isn't Intel IME engine that backdoor fw that can't be disabled? 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Ictinike said:


> Hey all.. Have had the R4BE since it came out in my current build and working great but got around to the ASUS forums and saw the modded BIOS for Spectre and Meltdown.
> 
> Currently running spec in my rig below but basically an i7 4390K on this R4BE and reading into the directions I've been able to update the Intel MEI Firmware to the proper v8 but cannot seem to update the Intel MEI Driver in Windows 10. Removing the installed software, trying to re-install the newer from the pack fails, as well doing it the old way via 'Update Driver' in Computer Management works but comes back with the prior version.
> 
> 
> 
> As I was reading the install instructions about updating the BIOS, IMEI Firmware and driver I was led to believe I *need* to install the IMEI FW and Driver first and then flash the modded BIOS but hoping someone here can show me the error in my ways. Before I have a system I cannot use [and I work from home 60hrs per week on this system] I wanted to ask.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks all!
> ~Ictinike



11.0.5.1189 is the correct driver version number. The full package (Intel_MEI_11.0.6.1194) itself is newer, but the actual driver will be 11.0.5.1189, sorry for the confusion. I used to write it for each MEI driver update, but I missed it for that one. Also, install the driver then the IMEI ROM. If the an IMEI driver isn't installed the IMEI ROM install will fail.


----------



## Ictinike

SparkyBoy006 said:


> 11.0.5.1189 is the correct driver version number. The full package (Intel_MEI_11.0.6.1194) itself is newer, but the actual driver will be 11.0.5.1189, sorry for the confusion. I used to write it for each MEI driver update, but I missed it for that one. Also, install the driver then the IMEI ROM. If the an IMEI driver isn't installed the IMEI ROM install will fail.


Thanks again Sparky! Didn't know you were here too but you helped me twice now!


----------



## 113802

bee144 said:


> We need the below link to be updated from Intel. The last update was 4/25, in which 42C is still the latest version. The files in the below download are what get injected into the BIOS.
> 
> https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/27776/Linux-Processor-Microcode-Data-File
> 
> This is further confirmed by Microsoft in the below doc that 42C is still the most recent version.
> 
> https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4090007/intel-microcode-updates
> 
> The RIVBE is my daily driver so rest assured, if wannacryer doesn't get to it, I will and I'll share the file in a timely manor.
> 
> I will be dumping my RIVBE for an Intel X399 or Z390 system when those come out later this year though.


https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/sa00115-microcode-update-guidance.pdf

Latest Microcodes 4D(Ivy Bridge-E) 714(Sandy Bridge-E)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Zh0QxaYziqQQydgtsFMURt4QsTA39kCG

disclaimer
/*
* I am not responsible for bricked devices, dead USB ports, bricked motherboards, thermonuclear
* war, or the current economic crisis caused by you flashing this
* UEFI. YOU are choosing to make these modificiations, and
* if you point your finger at me for messing up your motherboard, I will
* laugh at you.
*/


----------



## Madmaxneo

WannaBeOCer said:


> https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/sa00115-microcode-update-guidance.pdf
> 
> Latest Microcodes 4D(Ivy Bridge-E) 714(Sandy Bridge-E)
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Zh0QxaYziqQQydgtsFMURt4QsTA39kCG
> 
> disclaimer
> /*
> * I am not responsible for bricked devices, dead USB ports, bricked motherboards, thermonuclear
> * war, or the current economic crisis caused by you flashing this
> * UEFI. YOU are choosing to make these modificiations, and
> * if you point your finger at me for messing up your motherboard, I will
> * laugh at you.
> */


Thanks!

But this is the first time I've seen anyone post a disclaimer, which kinda makes me wonder and a bit worried.....lol. 

Either way we have the backup bios just in case.....


----------



## Shadowarez

How badly will this effect a i7 4960x with win 10 performance wise? 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## 113802

Shadowarez said:


> How badly will this effect a i7 4960x with win 10 performance wise?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


That's a good question! Any of you want to run some benchmarks and compare?


----------



## 113802

Madmaxneo said:


> WannaBeOCer said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/sa00115-microcode-update-guidance.pdf
> 
> Latest Microcodes 4D(Ivy Bridge-E) 714(Sandy Bridge-E)
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Zh0QxaYziqQQydgtsFMURt4QsTA39kCG
> 
> disclaimer
> /*
> * I am not responsible for bricked devices, dead USB ports, bricked motherboards, thermonuclear
> * war, or the current economic crisis caused by you flashing this
> * UEFI. YOU are choosing to make these modificiations, and
> * if you point your finger at me for messing up your motherboard, I will
> * laugh at you.
> */
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> But this is the first time I've seen anyone post a disclaimer, which kinda makes me wonder and a bit worried.....lol.
> 
> Either way we have the backup bios just in case.....
Click to expand...

Same oRoms as the previous UEFI. Updated microcodes, when ever flashing any firmware it should be concerning. Never know when the power will go out.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

*Damn man*

Well after many years of faultless operation im sad to report that I have lost my o/c , usb ports ( over voltage error ? lol , shut down ) and bios switching . To get it to boot I cant have ANYTHING in the usb ports then plug in extension with usb hub after it gets past POST . This all occurred after I installed a RX 480 …….. BTW


Ed
Which is running superbly @ 5120x2880p single monitor


----------



## Madmaxneo

HOMECINEMA-PC said:


> Well after many years of faultless operation im sad to report that I have lost my o/c , usb ports ( over voltage error ? lol , shut down ) and bios switching . To get it to boot I cant have ANYTHING in the usb ports then plug in extension with usb hub after it gets past POST . This all occurred after I installed a RX 480 …….. BTW
> 
> 
> Ed
> Which is running superbly @ 5120x2880p single monitor


That really sucks. This board is awesome but I guess I can't expect it to run forever.

You think it could've been a static discharge?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Madmaxneo said:


> That really sucks. This board is awesome but I guess I can't expect it to run forever.
> 
> You think it could've been a static discharge?



Yes , thats what i think has happened . Ive noticed a lot of static elect around lately being winter here and all that .


----------



## Madmaxneo

HOMECINEMA-PC said:


> Yes , thats what i think has happened . Ive noticed a lot of static elect around lately being winter here and all that .


Yeah... Winter sucks extra for that extra chance of a static discharge due to dry/low humidity conditions.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Madmaxneo said:


> Yeah... Winter sucks extra for that extra chance of a static discharge due to dry/low humidity conditions.



At least i can game and still do my thang on it . Getting it to boot is a multi step process now eh .


----------



## Clos

I tried flashin the bios and it still tells me 43c (ivy) could you double check the file in the link, if you wouldn't mind?


----------



## 113802

Clos said:


> I tried flashin the bios and it still tells me 43c (ivy) could you double check the file in the link, if you wouldn't mind?


That's the correct file, I have tested it on others.


----------



## Clos

Hrmmm.. maybe i'm being a tard and it's not accepting it. I swear i saw it blinking, but i think it just went black, and not solid like it's supposed to. I'll try again tonight. Thanks for verifying!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Clos said:


> Hrmmm.. maybe i'm being a tard and it's not accepting it. I swear i saw it blinking, but i think it just went black, and not solid like it's supposed to. I'll try again tonight. Thanks for verifying!


Make sure your USB is Fat32 format .......


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Use the Low Level Format Tool http://hddguru.com/software/HDD-LLF-Low-Level-Format-Tool/ to get the USB drive to work. You can choose "quick" format and it'll still fix any problems. The light does have to blink .. first slow and then it gets faster as it finishes the flash. There are also two LEDs toward the bottom right of the board that also blink in respect to which BIOS chip is being flashed. If it blinks a few times then turns off, the motherboard didn't read the file from the USB drive correctly.


----------



## Shadowarez

Anyone notice dramatic slowdown on win 10 with all win updates and spectre patches applied? 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Clos

Well this is interestingly odd. Today i got the Bios update to work. and as soon as i booted up.. I got a huge red screen saying WannaCry Ransomeware Attack, like during bios bootup and before windows. 
I shut it down and booted back into bios, if i switch to bios #2 (with 42c) it doesn't come up....

Anyone else get this? or know wth this is? Not pointing any fingers.. just trying to figure out what in the world happened....

Edit: Well, i've Flashed back to My Original Bios with 42c, and everything works fine. I"m in NO way accusing WannaBeOcer of anything. But you may want to check that bios before loading it up. Something may have happened on googles servers, etc.


----------



## 113802

Clos said:


> Well this is interestingly odd. Today i got the Bios update to work. and as soon as i booted up.. I got a huge red screen saying WannaCry Ransomeware Attack, like during bios bootup and before windows.
> I shut it down and booted back into bios, if i switch to bios #2 (with 42c) it doesn't come up....
> 
> Anyone else get this? or know wth this is? Not pointing any fingers.. just trying to figure out what in the world happened....
> 
> Edit: Well, i've Flashed back to My Original Bios with 42c, and everything works fine. I"m in NO way accusing WannaBeOcer of anything. But you may want to check that bios before loading it up. Something may have happened on googles servers, etc.


Yeah it's a beautiful boot logo isn't it?


----------



## bee144

WannaBeOCer said:


> Clos said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well this is interestingly odd. Today i got the Bios update to work. and as soon as i booted up.. I got a huge red screen saying WannaCry Ransomeware Attack, like during bios bootup and before windows.
> I shut it down and booted back into bios, if i switch to bios #2 (with 42c) it doesn't come up....
> 
> Anyone else get this? or know wth this is? Not pointing any fingers.. just trying to figure out what in the world happened....
> 
> Edit: Well, i've Flashed back to My Original Bios with 42c, and everything works fine. I"m in NO way accusing WannaBeOcer of anything. But you may want to check that bios before loading it up. Something may have happened on googles servers, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it's a beautiful boot logo isn't it?
Click to expand...

So you’re admitting to distributing randsomware? You realize that’s a felony?


----------



## 113802

bee144 said:


> So you’re admitting to distributing randsomware? You realize that’s a felony?


Where is the ransom? Nothing malicious about a boot logo. Doesn't prevent a user from using a computer. Not threatening to publish data or perpetually block access to it.


----------



## Shadowarez

It's like the old bluescreen screen savers or bullet holes on cellphone screens I think it's funny as hell lol 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Clos

WannaBeOCer said:


> Where is the ransom? Nothing malicious about a boot logo. Doesn't prevent a user from using a computer. Not threatening to publish data or perpetually block access to it.


I hate you so much... LOL. 
I booted up and was like, OMG!! WTH did i do? Crap, crap, crap, switched bios, 'phew!'. switched back.. dangit! My pronz ruined my bios! Lulz. 

Is there a way to remove it? it'd freak me out every time i booted up to see that... hahaha.


----------



## 113802

Clos said:


> I hate you so much... LOL.
> I booted up and was like, OMG!! WTH did i do? Crap, crap, crap, switched bios, 'phew!'. switched back.. dangit! My pronz ruined my bios! Lulz.
> 
> Is there a way to remove it? it'd freak me out every time i booted up to see that... hahaha.


Modifying the UEFI I uploaded by following these instructions or you can wait until this evening(PST) for me to re-upload with the stock ugly ROG logo. Or you can replace it with any logo you'd like instead of the ugly ROG logo. I made my own logo that I use on my Maximus VIII Formula. Asus' boot logo tool in AI Suite stinks. Completely botches the resolution. 

https://www.bios-mods.com/forum/Thread-AMI-Aptio-Splash-screen-changing-guide


----------



## Clos

WannaBeOCer said:


> Modifying the UEFI I uploaded by following these instructions or you can wait until this evening(PST) for me to re-upload with the stock ugly ROG logo. Or you can replace it with any logo you'd like instead of the ugly ROG logo. I made my own logo that I use on my Maximus VIII Formula. Asus' boot logo tool in AI Suite stinks. Completely botches the resolution.
> 
> https://www.bios-mods.com/forum/Thread-AMI-Aptio-Splash-screen-changing-guide


Thanks! I may upload your version in this evening's post, and at a later date, install my own. I appreciate it greatly, scare and all! LOL


----------



## 113802

Clos said:


> Thanks! I may upload your version in this evening's post, and at a later date, install my own. I appreciate it greatly, scare and all! LOL


Change Log: 
Reverted to ugly ROG logo
Latest Microcodes 4D(Ivy Bridge-E) 714(Sandy Bridge-E)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Zh0QxaYziqQQydgtsFMURt4QsTA39kCG

disclaimer
/*
* I am not responsible for bricked devices, dead USB ports, bricked motherboards, thermonuclear
* war, or the current economic crisis caused by you flashing this
* UEFI. YOU are choosing to make these modificiations, and
* if you point your finger at me for messing up your motherboard, I will
* laugh at you.
*/


----------



## Shadowarez

Hey guys I moved my Rive 4 to a corsair 1000D but soon as I connected power it was powering on off Evey second did I just bork my CPU and board? 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Sounds like a short ……………………


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all 


I was just curious if anyone could assist me with a BIOS profile where they have a 4960X running @ 4.5/4.8ghz ?



For some reason I just cant seem to get a stable OC going and I know I had it before. Either that or an in depth guide with voltages, etc.



::: EDIT :::

Is there a way to backup the BIOS in case I update it and the update fails ... or is a bricked board just a fancy paper weight ?


----------



## Clos

These motherboards have dual bios, and an 'unbrickable' emergency bios supposedly. check the manual, i know i read it somewhere in there.


----------



## Madmaxneo

WannaBeOCer said:


> Where is the ransom? Nothing malicious about a boot logo. Doesn't prevent a user from using a computer. Not threatening to publish data or perpetually block access to it.


OMG! This is hilarious! You Deserve some kudo points for this...LOL


----------



## dboythagr8

Is the newest BIOS update for our board really 07/14/2014?


----------



## Clos

Yeup. 0801 or whatever it is is the final update from ASUS. I think i was even a Beta Bios.. if i remember correctly.... Works fine but, luckily we have awesome people like @WannaBeOCer helping up keep our boards updated.


----------



## Laithan

For me, 0801 allowed higher overclocks (vs 0701) and with even less voltage. YMMV


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Should I get the 0801 beta build or does someone have a link to one of WannaBeOCer bios firmwares that doesnt have the freaky boot logo ... haha



::: EDIT :::


Been having an issue with my pc that I thought I resolved but apparently haven't. While using the pc under different loads, my screen will go black with the "no signal detected" and I can still hear sound for a while before the system locks up.


Could this be board related ? ... it is the only component I have no spares to test


----------



## 113802

Emissary of Pain said:


> Should I get the 0801 beta build or does someone have a link to one of WannaBeOCer bios firmwares that doesnt have the freaky boot logo ... haha
> 
> 
> 
> ::: EDIT :::
> 
> 
> Been having an issue with my pc that I thought I resolved but apparently haven't. While using the pc under different loads, my screen will go black with the "no signal detected" and I can still hear sound for a while before the system locks up.
> 
> 
> Could this be board related ? ... it is the only component I have no spares to test /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif


Same link as before, I removed the custom boot logo. Sounds more of a video card issue than a motherboard issue.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Emissary of Pain said:


> Should I get the 0801 beta build or does someone have a link to one of WannaBeOCer bios firmwares that doesnt have the freaky boot logo ... haha
> 
> ::: EDIT :::
> 
> Been having an issue with my pc that I thought I resolved but apparently haven't. While using the pc under different loads, my screen will go black with the "no signal detected" and I can still hear sound for a while before the system locks up.
> 
> Could this be board related ? ... it is the only component I have no spares to test


I have the same problem, both my screens go black before the system locks up completely. I have done all sorts of things to stop this from happening but the issue always comes back. One thing I do that at least reduces the Black Screens is running DDU in safe mode then installing a fresh gpu driver that I downloaded directly from the nvidia website. I even set the program to stop windows from automatically updating the graphics driver but the issue still comes back every so often. A few people have told me this is a somewhat known issue with Windows, but I am not convinced that is the case. I think it may have something to do with this board and possibly a voltage regulator for the PCIE bus or something of the like. But I have no way of knowing. 

Note that if I reset my system right after my screens go black there is nothing at all in event viewer, but if the PC sits for awhile (like 20 mins or more) and then reset it I find a repeated error report saying the GPU driver has stopped responding and restarted. This is why I think it has something to do with voltage regulation to the PCIE lanes. FYI, this has happened over two different video cards so I seriously doubt it's associated with the GPU hardware.


----------



## 113802

Madmaxneo said:


> I have the same problem, both my screens go black before the system locks up completely. I have done all sorts of things to stop this from happening but the issue always comes back. One thing I do that at least reduces the Black Screens is running DDU in safe mode then installing a fresh gpu driver that I downloaded directly from the nvidia website. I even set the program to stop windows from automatically updating the graphics driver but the issue still comes back every so often. A few people have told me this is a somewhat known issue with Windows, but I am not convinced that is the case. I think it may have something to do with this board and possibly a voltage regulator for the PCIE bus or something of the like. But I have no way of knowing.
> 
> Note that if I reset my system right after my screens go black there is nothing at all in event viewer, but if the PC sits for awhile (like 20 mins or more) and then reset it I find a repeated error report saying the GPU driver has stopped responding and restarted. This is why I think it has something to do with voltage regulation to the PCIE lanes. FYI, this has happened over two different video cards so I seriously doubt it's associated with the GPU hardware.


Are you using a 4k display with DP? If so you may need to update the UEFI on your video card.

http://www.nvidia.com/object/nv-uefi-update-x64.html


----------



## Shadowarez

Updated both Titans X's no issues after update 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Madmaxneo

WannaBeOCer said:


> Are you using a 4k display with DP? If so you may need to update the UEFI on your video card.
> 
> http://www.nvidia.com/object/nv-uefi-update-x64.html


I am running an AOC G2460PG 24" Gsync monitor connected through a display port and a 24" 1080p vizio smart TV connected through HDMI as my two monitors. No 4k yet.... This issue has been going on for well over a year (almost 2) now and when it first started I had a GTX 980 GPU. That card died and got a 1070 as a warranty replacement.

EDIT: I had switched to my aged 750Ti when it was happening with my 980. I thought it went away but it came back within a week on that card.


----------



## Laithan

WannaBeOCer said:


> Are you using a 4k display with DP? If so you may need to update the UEFI on your video card.
> 
> http://www.nvidia.com/object/nv-uefi-update-x64.html


Thanks for the heads up, I didn't know that was released. Kudos!
Updated both my 980Ti's no issue


----------



## pelo

Hi, I have some problems with ram in cannel D.
I have a 4x4 ripjaws 2400 kit.

When sistem posts, bios recognices only 12gb of ram, but dimm post see all four sticks connected.
When I boot into windows, cpuz view 16gigs in quad channel, but windows system info 12gb of ram....

Where is my problem?

The other specs.
3930k c2
2xgtx 1070 in sli
No much more, all watercooled

Enviado desde mi ZTE Axon 7 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Madmaxneo

WannaBeOCer said:


> Are you using a 4k display with DP? If so you may need to update the UEFI on your video card.
> 
> http://www.nvidia.com/object/nv-uefi-update-x64.html


I went and looked at that update and I didn't see anything referencing 4k only but it did mention the black screens, so I went updated. Only time will tell at this point.



pelo said:


> Hi, I have some problems with ram in cannel D.
> I have a 4x4 ripjaws 2400 kit.
> 
> When sistem posts, bios recognices only 12gb of ram, but dimm post see all four sticks connected.
> When I boot into windows, cpuz view 16gigs in quad channel, but windows system info 12gb of ram....
> 
> Where is my problem?
> 
> The other specs.
> 3930k c2
> 2xgtx 1070 in sli
> No much more, all watercooled
> 
> Enviado desde mi ZTE Axon 7 mediante Tapatalk


What BIOS are you running? If it is not the 0801 or even the 0701 you should update. I believe there was an issue with one of the older BIOS updates that affected the RAM channels, not sure exactly though. But if you are updating your BIOS I would go ahead and update with the last one that was posted in this forum. It has all the latest patches for system along with the spectre (and whatever the other one was called) microcode patch in it.


----------



## Shadowarez

Can we get a link on these pages lol I fail at searching it seems 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Madmaxneo

Shadowarez said:


> Can we get a link on these pages lol I fail at searching it seems
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


The latest BIOS update? It is at the top of page 1526 of this thread.... currently the page previous to this one...lol


----------



## Shadowarez

That's all I get from that link lol









Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Madmaxneo

Shadowarez said:


> That's all I get from that link lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


It works just fine for me. I would upload an image but it is now a real pain in the rear to even take a screen shot with windows 10. Hitting print screen now just copies the image and I have to paste it into whatever graphic program I use. It is ridiculous and annoying at best. Then the only way to show an image here is to upload it to an image server and post a link here, which is also annoying. 
But the link does work fine for me.


It looks like that UEFI update for my GPU didn't help with the black screens either because I just had one a few minutes ago and had to reset my system.....


----------



## pelo

Madmaxneo said:


> I went and looked at that update and I didn't see anything referencing 4k only but it did mention the black screens, so I went updated. Only time will tell at this point.
> 
> 
> What BIOS are you running? If it is not the 0801 or even the 0701 you should update. I believe there was an issue with one of the older BIOS updates that affected the RAM channels, not sure exactly though. But if you are updating your BIOS I would go ahead and update with the last one that was posted in this forum. It has all the latest patches for system along with the spectre (and whatever the other one was called) microcode patch in it.


I try every bios... I found the first one is the most stable for me... I dont know where can be the problem if the bios detects the slot populated, but reports only 12gb....

Enviado desde mi ZTE Axon 7 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Madmaxneo

pelo said:


> I try every bios... I found the first one is the most stable for me... I dont know where can be the problem if the bios detects the slot populated, but reports only 12gb....
> 
> Enviado desde mi ZTE Axon 7 mediante Tapatalk


I remember when I had this same exact issue and I went through updating the bios and all. I even contacted Asus support (when this board was still supported) and they had me go through and double check all my connections then pull the RAM out and try it with just two sticks then three and finally four, all in different configurations. Nothing seemed to work. Then suddenly it just worked. There may have been a loose connection that was just not connecting correctly until the last time. It may have been that the RAM just wouldn't sit perfect or it could've been the mainboard power connection. I never figured out what it was, but it's been working great ever since.


----------



## Shadowarez

Damn Gremlins in these old Beasts. On a odd note can I use 91% isopropyl to clean my components I had 99% but they don't seem to sell it at Walmart anymore. This old board has got a layer of fur I want to vanquish 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Laithan

I could never find 99% in stores but easy to find online. I would wait because the remaining 9% (technically 8%) is just water on your board


----------



## Shadowarez

Ok I'll leave it fur clearing the loop I'll get it from Amazon 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## 113802

Shadowarez said:


> That's all I get from that link lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Zh0QxaYziqQQydgtsFMURt4QsTA39kCG


----------



## Emissary of Pain

@WannaBeOCer


Thanks so much for the BIOS, works like a charm !! 




On another note, which NVME -> PCI-E card do you guys recommend ?


----------



## Shadowarez

Ty will test with 128gb of DDR 3 ram soon as hardware arrives 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## good223

WannaBeOCer said:


> Change Log:
> Reverted to ugly ROG logo
> Latest Microcodes 4D(Ivy Bridge-E) 714(Sandy Bridge-E)
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Zh0QxaYziqQQydgtsFMURt4QsTA39kCG
> 
> disclaimer
> /*
> * I am not responsible for bricked devices, dead USB ports, bricked motherboards, thermonuclear
> * war, or the current economic crisis caused by you flashing this
> * UEFI. YOU are choosing to make these modificiations, and
> * if you point your finger at me for messing up your motherboard, I will
> * laugh at you.
> */


Are there any other updates or mods done to this bios besides microcode updates?

Also, I'm assuming this is more up to date than this one https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?72562-Windows-10-WHQL-RIVBE-driver-pack just based on the microcode numbers?


----------



## Laithan

Thanks WannaBeOCer yet again for helping us all be ON the train instead of watching it leave us behind. I know I'm not the only one that sincerely appreciates your contributions to this thread.
:thumb:

I had 42C, just flashed to the 42D provided, worked like a charm no issues. Loaded up my previous BIOS settings saved to my USB drive prior and the whole process took 2m.


----------



## Rayce185

Hey guys I'm standing in front of a weird problem:

About a month ago I bought myself a used R4BE because some RAM slots of my former one weren't working properly.

Well, it worked flawlessly until today. While on the power just cut and after starting the system again the power always drops after half second.

Thankfully I still have the old board and an old 3930K lying around to test with.

The result is highly confusing for me:
New board with 4930K: No go
New board with 3930K: Works
Old board with 4930K: Works
Old board with 3930K: Works

I only tested it with RAM installed and the PSU hooked up and I cannot figure out why the board doesn't want to work with the 4930K when every other setup works too.

Any ideas?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Rayce185 said:


> Hey guys I'm standing in front of a weird problem:
> 
> About a month ago I bought myself a used R4BE because some RAM slots of my former one weren't working properly.
> 
> Well, it worked flawlessly until today. While on the power just cut and after starting the system again the power always drops after half second.
> 
> Thankfully I still have the old board and an old 3930K lying around to test with.
> 
> The result is highly confusing for me:
> New board with 4930K: No go
> New board with 3930K: Works
> Old board with 4930K: Works
> Old board with 3930K: Works
> 
> I only tested it with RAM installed and the PSU hooked up and I cannot figure out why the board doesn't want to work with the 4930K when every other setup works too.
> 
> Any ideas?


Check for bent pins on both boards


----------



## Laithan

Rayce185 said:


> Hey guys I'm standing in front of a weird problem:
> 
> About a month ago I bought myself a used R4BE because some RAM slots of my former one weren't working properly.
> 
> Well, it worked flawlessly until today. While on the power just cut and after starting the system again the power always drops after half second.
> 
> Thankfully I still have the old board and an old 3930K lying around to test with.
> 
> The result is highly confusing for me:
> New board with 4930K: No go
> New board with 3930K: Works
> Old board with 4930K: Works
> Old board with 3930K: Works
> 
> I only tested it with RAM installed and the PSU hooked up and I cannot figure out why the board doesn't want to work with the 4930K when every other setup works too.
> 
> Any ideas?



Interesting... well you sort of proved the CPU is good.. assume you re-seated it several times. Since the older chip works fine then the variables here are (1) Pins, (2) BIOS settings, (3) Mount, (4) Thermal paste (conductive?)... (5) Dirty pads on the CPU

Who knows you can try switching to the alternate BIOS also if you haven't already


----------



## yokie

Madmaxneo said:


> I have the same problem, both my screens go black before the system locks up completely. I have done all sorts of things to stop this from happening but the issue always comes back. One thing I do that at least reduces the Black Screens is running DDU in safe mode then installing a fresh gpu driver that I downloaded directly from the nvidia website. I even set the program to stop windows from automatically updating the graphics driver but the issue still comes back every so often. A few people have told me this is a somewhat known issue with Windows, but I am not convinced that is the case. I think it may have something to do with this board and possibly a voltage regulator for the PCIE bus or something of the like. But I have no way of knowing.
> 
> Note that if I reset my system right after my screens go black there is nothing at all in event viewer, but if the PC sits for awhile (like 20 mins or more) and then reset it I find a repeated error report saying the GPU driver has stopped responding and restarted. This is why I think it has something to do with voltage regulation to the PCIE lanes. FYI, this has happened over two different video cards so I seriously doubt it's associated with the GPU hardware.


Turn off intel Vt-x and HPET. If you use firefox, it might be beneficial to disable hardware acceleration.


----------



## Madmaxneo

yokie said:


> Turn off intel Vt-x and HPET. If you use firefox, it might be beneficial to disable hardware acceleration.


I haven't used Firefox in over 15 years...lol.

I will look into those settings in my bios. Hopefully I can find them.


----------



## Madmaxneo

yokie said:


> Turn off intel Vt-x and HPET. If you use firefox, it might be beneficial to disable hardware acceleration.


FYI, my system runs fine and has no issues whatsoever outside of these random black screens. Although I do need to flush my watercooling system...lol.

I couldn't find either HPET or Vt-x in my BIOS settings but did find the "Intel Virtualization Technology" and I disabled that. I just checked to see if either of those are still enable and they seem to not be.


----------



## yokie

Madmaxneo said:


> FYI, my system runs fine and has no issues whatsoever outside of these random black screens. Although I do need to flush my watercooling system...lol.
> 
> I couldn't find either HPET or Vt-x in my BIOS settings but did find the "Intel Virtualization Technology" and I disabled that. I just checked to see if either of those are still enable and they seem to not be.



I've been plagued with this problem for months since last windows creator update. I searched on Nvidia forum since black screen maybe related to video driver and found majority of people with this problem use x79 board. Anyway the solutions offered by these people (users mostly) are to...
1 disable Vt-d (intel virtualization technology).
2 disable or uninstall corsair link software, if you got one.
3 consider doing less aggressive overclocking, if you overclock.
4 disable firefox hardware acceleration, if you use firefox.
5 disable HPET (my system with SLI acts kinda weird when it's enabled) 
6 disable vt-x (my own idea).


I haven't had one in weeks..but who knows it might come back again.


----------



## Madmaxneo

yokie said:


> I've been plagued with this problem for months since last windows creator update. I searched on Nvidia forum since black screen maybe related to video driver and found majority of people with this problem use x79 board. Anyway the solutions offered by these people (users mostly) are to...
> 1 disable Vt-d (intel virtualization technology).
> 2 disable or uninstall corsair link software, if you got one.
> 3 consider doing less aggressive overclocking, if you overclock.
> 4 disable firefox hardware acceleration, if you use firefox.
> 5 disable HPET (my system with SLI acts kinda weird when it's enabled)
> 6 disable vt-x (my own idea).
> 
> 
> I haven't had one in weeks..but who knows it might come back again.


I don't use Firefox, I use Chrome.
VT-X and HPET are both disabled when disabling Intel Virtualization in the bios. 
It doesn't matter if my OC is at 4.5ghz or no OC at all, I still get the black screens. They are very random at that. Sometimes a few days can go by if not a whole week without one. Then on some days I get the black screens, reboot and as soon as I am up it happens again. When they do happen the black screens (mostly) come in pairs meaning twice that day. Only every once in awhile do I only get one black screen in a day. I get no other indication that something happened. 

If I let the black screens sit errors are eventually recorded in event viewer about the nvidia driver, but only if I let it sit. It is something like "the video driver has stopped responding and has been restarted". But everything is black with no sound and my G13 readout is frozen. I find the errors in event viewer after I restart, and they are repeated like every so many seconds... 
So I am not even sure what is going on. I have even used DDU through safe mode and did a fresh install of drivers directly from the nvidia website. But the black screens still happen.

I even followed someones recommendation to update the firmware in the graphics card. Before I did that I looked through the nvidia info on this and it seemed like that might work because they described the same issue I was having. But it didn't work.

Edit: I don't have Corsair Link. Although I do have iCue (Corsair software for my K95 RGB keyboard), Logitech Gaming Software (for the G13, though I don't really use it), and CAM (NZXT monitoring software that also controls my Hue+ and Grid+ V2).
Edit2: The Logitech Gaming Software is used by my G502 gaming mouse.


----------



## airisom2

I had an issue with random restarts. After lots of trial and error, it was because of the PCIe power cable on my graphics card, the one that's an 8 + 6+2 in one. Swapped it out for dual 6+2 cables, and it hasn't happened since.


----------



## yokie

Madmaxneo said:


> I don't use Firefox, I use Chrome.
> VT-X and HPET are both disabled when disabling Intel Virtualization in the bios.
> It doesn't matter if my OC is at 4.5ghz or no OC at all, I still get the black screens. They are very random at that. Sometimes a few days can go by if not a whole week without one. Then on some days I get the black screens, reboot and as soon as I am up it happens again. When they do happen the black screens (mostly) come in pairs meaning twice that day. Only every once in awhile do I only get one black screen in a day. I get no other indication that something happened.
> 
> If I let the black screens sit errors are eventually recorded in event viewer about the nvidia driver, but only if I let it sit. It is something like "the video driver has stopped responding and has been restarted". But everything is black with no sound and my G13 readout is frozen. I find the errors in event viewer after I restart, and they are repeated like every so many seconds...
> So I am not even sure what is going on. I have even used DDU through safe mode and did a fresh install of drivers directly from the nvidia website. But the black screens still happen.
> 
> I even followed someones recommendation to update the firmware in the graphics card. Before I did that I looked through the nvidia info on this and it seemed like that might work because they described the same issue I was having. But it didn't work.
> 
> Edit: I don't have Corsair Link. Although I do have iCue (Corsair software for my K95 RGB keyboard), Logitech Gaming Software (for the G13, though I don't really use it), and CAM (NZXT monitoring software that also controls my Hue+ and Grid+ V2).
> Edit2: The Logitech Gaming Software is used by my G502 gaming mouse.


Have you tried installing Intel_RST_Drivers_&_Software_Set_v16.0.10.1104 or upgrading raid firmware? Abnormal black screen and reboot could be caused by raid software, as mentioned here https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?72562-Windows-10-WHQL-RIVBE-driver-pack/page12#post723126).


----------



## Madmaxneo

yokie said:


> Have you tried installing Intel_RST_Drivers_&_Software_Set_v16.0.10.1104 or upgrading raid firmware? Abnormal black screen and reboot could be caused by raid software, as mentioned here https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?72562-Windows-10-WHQL-RIVBE-driver-pack/page12#post723126).


Would that still be an issue if I don't use RAID at all?
I am downloading the WHQ drivers from that thread now. Maybe that will help....

Edit: Note that these black screens freezes have been going on for about 2 years (maybe a bit more) now.


----------



## deafboy

Rayce185 said:


> Hey guys I'm standing in front of a weird problem:
> 
> About a month ago I bought myself a used R4BE because some RAM slots of my former one weren't working properly.
> 
> Well, it worked flawlessly until today. While on the power just cut and after starting the system again the power always drops after half second.
> 
> Thankfully I still have the old board and an old 3930K lying around to test with.
> 
> The result is highly confusing for me:
> New board with 4930K: No go
> New board with 3930K: Works
> Old board with 4930K: Works
> Old board with 3930K: Works
> 
> I only tested it with RAM installed and the PSU hooked up and I cannot figure out why the board doesn't want to work with the 4930K when every other setup works too.
> 
> Any ideas?


Oh hey there 

What version of the BIOS are you running? That's the first thing I'd check. When you say no go, nothing boots at all or is it giving you an error code?


----------



## Laithan

The E5-1680v2... it is starting to taunt me again.. The CPU is unlocked & I bet it would hit 4.5Ghz on all cores without too much effort on the RIVBE.. The new 9900K also has 8 cores.. check out the #'s, I think it would be an interesting comparison (I don't think the 9900K would get 5Ghz on all cores) to see the performance of each CPU at roughly 4.5Ghz on all cores... 2.000MB vs 3.125MB cache per core / 16 lanes vs 40 PCI-e lanes.. 

https://ark.intel.com/compare/77912,186605


----------



## deafboy

Depends what you're going for I suppose... the 9900k will likely stomp on it just from an IPC perspective.

My CPU at 5GHz gets utterly stomped by an 8700k at stock turbo, lol for CPU intensive workloads


----------



## airisom2

I'm not really interested in the 9900K. While it's nice that it's soldered and it's 8 cores and stuff, the 1680 v2 is fast enough for me. I like X79, and I enjoy overclocking stuff on it (I'm on #4 now), and I haven't yet run into a situation where I NEED a faster processor. 4k 120Hz does have me weary, though. I hope I'll still be gpu bound there.


----------



## bee144

How much would a used RIVBE sell for? Original product box, all accessories, nothing wrong, and warranty until sometime in December.


----------



## Madmaxneo

bee144 said:


> How much would a used RIVBE sell for? Original product box, all accessories, nothing wrong, and warranty until sometime in December.


It looks like people are trying to sell this board for about $500 on ebay. I don't see how they will sell but you never know. If you want to get rid of it fast sell it cheaper and drop the price until it sells.


----------



## bee144

Madmaxneo said:


> bee144 said:
> 
> 
> 
> How much would a used RIVBE sell for? Original product box, all accessories, nothing wrong, and warranty until sometime in December.
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like people are trying to sell this board for about $500 on ebay. I don't see how they will sell but you never know. If you want to get rid of it fast sell it cheaper and drop the price until it sells.
Click to expand...

yeah most of those boards have been on there for months.

I might try a 7 day bid starting at $125 and see where it goes from there.


----------



## Madmaxneo

bee144 said:


> yeah most of those boards have been on there for months.
> 
> I might try a 7 day bid starting at $125 and see where it goes from there.


If I had the money I would be interested. The reason is I am having a "Black screen" issue and believe it is from the MB. The only way to tell is to try another RIVBE MB...lol.


----------



## psyclist

Heya All, I just read through the last 200 or so pages to catch up on the goings on for this board. Ive got the upgrade itch, but decided to hold off on a whole new platform, so will be moving from my 4930K @ 4.4 to a just ordered E5 1660 V2, hoping to get er to at least 4.6! Comin from China...so im sure its gonna take awhile...

Also Interested in an NVMe Drive eventually, haha but gonna hold off a few months, seems that will be that last upgrade this board sees. Been an awesome board these past 5 years, and thanks to the folks keeping us relevant with NVMe support and Microcode patches! Im trying to hold off till DDR5, which means 2020...ughhhhh


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Why a 1660 v2?, sidegrade from a 4930k. Go for a 1680 V2.

Still have mine, solid cpu.


----------



## psyclist

Haha, Yeah I saw your benches, and it did make me a drool a little... but I think were more at an IPC deficit these days, still have enough cores, SO I thought the 1660 V2 would perhaps clock a little better and give a slight bump in cache size 12 to 15mb. Also the cheapest 1680 I could find was $420, while the 1660 was only $169 USD. Haha and as a fellow canadian 420 USD is currently worth approx. $40000000 CAD lol. 

True its a mostly sidegrade, but ill probably break even on selling the 4930K, so its more just something new to tinker with and HOPEFULLY land a superior binned 1660 v2 as opposed to my so-so 4930K


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Ahh I see your point and I agree. Funny the 1680 is still that much.


----------



## DashTrash

I was just able to obtain one of these boards through a neighbor. I am currently running a 4930K @ 4.55. I'm thinking I want to add more cores to this system. It looks like the 1680 V2 Xeon is 8 core and unlocked. According to the Asus website, I can get up to a 12 core Xeon, the 2697 v2. Is the 1680 v2 the only unlocked Xeon? If you run a locked Xeon, when you turn up the bclk, can you set it to use the highest turbo multi, or just the base multi? Thanks!


----------



## airisom2

For SB-E/IB-E, the single socket chips are unlocked, denoted by the 1xxx vx Dual socket, 2xxx vx and up have locked multis. Bclk overclocking is possible, but getting a sizeable overclock on a locked and low multi will be a challenge. Linus had an overclocked 2697 v2 back in the day, and bclk overclocking granted him an extra 13mhz on the bclk which gives you 3.39ghz. Kinda funny to see him flip out about 12 cores running at 3.4ghz now. 

As far as the turbo multi goes, it'll behave like it originally did. You can't force turbo to run on all cores, unfortunately.

Also, if anyone has an ek monoblock they'd like to sell, let me know.


----------



## DashTrash

Is there some sort of lockout keeping it from running at the 125bclk setting? That would get the clock up. Probably locked some of the other busses so it won't do that I would imagine. Thanks for the response. Looks like the 1680 v2 is the best balance.


----------



## ElevenEleven

I got a full system from a friend, and it includes this motherboard and an i7 4930k. The motherboard has an EK plate over the southbridge and such, instead of the stock passive aluminum heatspreader. I want to remove all the water cooling and swap to air. Unfortunately the original ASUS chipset heatspreader is missing, and I'm not sure where to get a replacement. Any recommendations on a southbridge cooling solution, or do you think I might be okay with the EK plate being left there for passive cooling but without water running through it?


----------



## Laithan

psyclist said:


> Haha, Yeah I saw your benches, and it did make me a drool a little... but I think were more at an IPC deficit these days, still have enough cores, SO I thought the 1660 V2 would perhaps clock a little better and give a slight bump in cache size 12 to 15mb. Also the cheapest 1680 I could find was $420, while the 1660 was only $169 USD. Haha and as a fellow canadian 420 USD is currently worth approx. $40000000 CAD lol.
> 
> True its a mostly sidegrade, but ill probably break even on selling the 4930K, so its more just something new to tinker with and HOPEFULLY land a superior binned 1660 v2 as opposed to my so-so 4930K


Cache comparison
1650v2 = 2.0MB per physical CPU (12MB)
1660v2 = 2.5MB per physical CPU (15MB)
1680v2 = 3.1MB per physical CPU (25MB)

Going with the 1680v2 is an even larger bump in cache and 2 more cores 

I just got mine for $315, never been overclocked came straight out of a MAC PRO. No idea how well it will do but feel good knowing it wasn't pounded on already . I am really dreading the loop drain and removal of my CPU block so I'm procrastinating... :Snorkle:


----------



## psyclist

Laithan said:


> Cache comparison
> 1650v2 = 2.0MB per physical CPU (12MB)
> 1660v2 = 2.5MB per physical CPU (15MB)
> 1680v2 = 3.1MB per physical CPU (25MB)
> 
> Going with the 1680v2 is an even larger bump in cache and 2 more cores
> 
> I just got mine for $315, never been overclocked came straight out of a MAC PRO. No idea how well it will do but feel good knowing it wasn't pounded on already . I am really dreading the loop drain and removal of my CPU block so I'm procrastinating... :Snorkle:


For sure, I poured over the specs prior to purchase and agree the 1680 is the flagship and should last the longest. Im hoping to get max 2 more years out of this system before upgrading and thinking a highly clocked 6C/12T chip will suffice . 

My rationale is the 1660 v2 is the 4960X I always wanted for this machine. Hoping I can land 4.6-4.7 @1.4-1.42v. And bring the system more inline with say a 7800X (minus the AVX512). While it looks like the 1680v2 tops out around 4.4-4.5. It also puts a heavier load on the VRM's. I have WB on the CPU but running stock VRM cooling. Finally when I was looking, the only option was $420 vs $169, those two cores arent worth THAT much to me

Im interested to see how yours turns out though! Ill post up if I ended up with a dud or a decent clocker as well. Ill be happy @ 4.6, anything else is gravy...Im also dreading the drain, but shes due for a service, and im adding my Vega into the loop as well... Good luck!


----------



## pelo

No way that a 4690x @ 4.6 can beat a 7800x... Not even get close... 5960x at 4.4ghz cannot beat an stock 7820x, and 5960x at 4.4ghz is almost the same as 7800x at 4.7ghz.... Im talking about compiling under linux,. Vrm are a problem whrn you OC to 4.9-5ghz and at least an 7820x, and maybe its not enough for vrm problems in decent motherboards. 
I dont try a 6950x but maybe that processor overclocked can do as well as a 7820x with OC, but x299 is a great inprovement in performance over previous gens...
3930k oced can compete with a 5930/5820, but 7800x is much better than 5930, is almost the same as a 5960x


psyclist said:


> For sure, I poured over the specs prior to purchase and agree the 1680 is the flagship and should last the longest. Im hoping to get max 2 more years out of this system before upgrading and thinking a highly clocked 6C/12T chip will suffice .
> 
> My rationale is the 1660 v2 is the 4960X I always wanted for this machine. Hoping I can land 4.6-4.7 @1.4-1.42v. And bring the system more inline with say a 7800X (minus the AVX512). While it looks like the 1680v2 tops out around 4.4-4.5. It also puts a heavier load on the VRM's. I have WB on the CPU but running stock VRM cooling. Finally when I was looking, the only option was $420 vs $169, those two cores arent worth THAT much to me
> 
> Im interested to see how yours turns out though! Ill post up if I ended up with a dud or a decent clocker as well. Ill be happy @ 4.6, anything else is gravy...Im also dreading the drain, but shes due for a service, and im adding my Vega into the loop as well... Good luck!


Enviado desde mi ZTE A2017G mediante Tapatalk


----------



## psyclist

pelo said:


> No way that a 4690x @ 4.6 can beat a 7800x... Not even get close... 5960x at 4.4ghz cannot beat an stock 7820x, and 5960x at 4.4ghz is almost the same as 7800x at 4.7ghz.... Im talking about compiling under linux,. Vrm are a problem whrn you OC to 4.9-5ghz and at least an 7820x, and maybe its not enough for vrm problems in decent motherboards.
> I dont try a 6950x but maybe that processor overclocked can do as well as a 7820x with OC, but x299 is a great inprovement in performance over previous gens...
> 3930k oced can compete with a 5930/5820, but 7800x is much better than 5930, is almost the same as a 5960x


Where exactly did I say it would beat it? I said that it would be more inline, meaning ballpark performance of a stock 7800X (minus the AVX512). Im shooting for 4.6-4.7 out of the 1660v2, but that is the top end for ivy-e, so might not get there of course. Of course the SkylakeX chip can be clocked as well and will run away with performance. But at 4.6-4.7 for the 4960X/1660v2 vs a stock 7800X the performance difference is quite close from what ive seen, HERE is one quick example...


----------



## Dwofzz

I think that I'm quite done with this setup now, I did upgrade to X99 but went back to this.. So I'm going to upgrade this with a 1680 v2 hopefully 


Here is the last tune up for this setup.

4.5GHz 1.405v
2133MHZ running 2666MHz 1.705v

VCCSA and VTT 1.15v and 1.43v

PLL is at 1.825v

So on and so on.. this system has been so good to me so I don't really know what to replace it with when that time comes.. :/


----------



## Laithan

I know this has been covered in the past but it is always good to check if there's "better choices" now... I am thinking of migrating from my PCI-e RAID controller (3 SSD's in RAID 0) to a NVMe controller in RAID 0. I do already have the custom BIOS flashed that adds the NVMe support but does that support RAID? My question is, what is the best PCI-e NVMe controller card for RAID 0 (2 maybe even 3 drive support) and which NMVe(s) drives would you recommend (960 PROs)?

I would also like for this array to be bootable.

Lastly, does anyone that uses NVMe on this board have any experience with Acronis True Image? Are you able to make images with Arconis (ie: does it detect the NVMe drive(s)/array)? 

If you've dived into NMVe I'd appreciate you sharing your experiences. Thx!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> I know this has been covered in the past but it is always good to check if there's "better choices" now... I am thinking of migrating from my PCI-e RAID controller (3 SSD's in RAID 0) to a NVMe controller in RAID 0. I do already have the custom BIOS flashed that adds the NVMe support but does that support RAID? My question is, what is the best PCI-e NVMe controller card for RAID 0 (2 maybe even 3 drive support) and which NMVe(s) drives would you recommend (960 PROs)?
> 
> I would also like for this array to be bootable.
> 
> Lastly, does anyone that uses NVMe on this board have any experience with Acronis True Image? Are you able to make images with Arconis (ie: does it detect the NVMe drive(s)/array)?
> 
> If you've dived into NMVe I'd appreciate you sharing your experiences. Thx!


I haven't tried it but an NVME in RAID 0 sounds like it might be pretty interesting to see working. 

Are you looking to clone your OS from your current RAID 0 setup? I'd be a bit weary of trying that with RAID 0 to an NVME setup on a board that does not officially support NVME drives. But that is just a really uninformed me being exceptionally cautious.


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> I haven't tried it but an NVME in RAID 0 sounds like it might be pretty interesting to see working.
> 
> Are you looking to clone your OS from your current RAID 0 setup? I'd be a bit weary of trying that with RAID 0 to an NVME setup on a board that does not officially support NVME drives. But that is just a really uninformed me being exceptionally cautious.


Yup... but the good thing is that it either works or it doesn't, there is no in-between. As long as the drives can be seen imaging should be no issue. I also want to make DR backups, not just clone. Seems it is the time to be looking at storage upgrades.


This looks pretty good... hmmm
https://www.techpowerup.com/248873/highpoint-releases-bootable-quad-m-2-nvme-raid-card-the-ssd7102


----------



## ElevenEleven

How do you control chassis fan speeds with R4BE to use low enough RPM? The "Silent" profile in the BIOS doesn't go lower than 1000rpm on my fans, which is higher than necessary. The Duty Cycle option seems broken, since I can't set minimum fan speed below 60% at 40C. The supplementary fan sockets that allow custom settings for low and high temperatures seem best, but those settings are not available for standard Chassis fan sockets.

I've downloaded and tried Asus AI Suite with Fan XPert, but unfortunately Fan XPert doesn't allow control of 2 case fans. It allows control of the rest. Another negative of using Fan Xpert is that the fan speeds don't get lowered to my settings until the system enters Windows.


----------



## Laithan

Hmmm... Another potential compliment to RIVBE... https://www.qnap.com/en-us/product/qm2-m.2ssd-10gbe_pc


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> Hmmm... Another potential compliment to RIVBE... https://www.qnap.com/en-us/product/qm2-m.2ssd-10gbe_pc


Wow, they are expensive? What makes them so special compared to other NVME PCIe adapter cards on the market for less than 1/10th the price? I get the 10gb port but even with that addition it seems a bit expensive... 

Am I missing something here in what they are offering?


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> Wow, they are expensive? What makes them so special compared to other NVME PCIe adapter cards on the market for less than 1/10th the price? I get the 10gb port but even with that addition it seems a bit expensive...
> 
> Am I missing something here in what they are offering?


Agree the price is high, now is not the right time for value.. sooner or later this stuff will be cheap, we just need to wait for 10GB to hit mainstream (it is getting close now)... I thought the idea of a 10GB NIC with 2xM.2 NVMe was a great combo for a single card since neither of them come native with RIVBE.. I wondered when copying to/from the network if data would even need to go through the PCIe bus when using the internal NVMe drives... 

The bad side (besides price), I have been reading some mixed reviews.. It was designed for a NAS but some are saying it works fine with windows. Some others say it doesn't work at all and some say performance was not great... so I guess at the end of the day IF this was cheap and IF it worked great and was super fast then it would be an awesome add-on for some of us, but maybe not right now. I'm still searching for a good NVMe solution.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> Agree the price is high, now is not the right time for value.. sooner or later this stuff will be cheap, we just need to wait for 10GB to hit mainstream (it is getting close now)... I thought the idea of a 10GB NIC with 2xM.2 NVMe was a great combo for a single card since neither of them come native with RIVBE.. I wondered when copying to/from the network if data would even need to go through the PCIe bus when using the internal NVMe drives...
> 
> The bad side (besides price), I have been reading some mixed reviews.. It was designed for a NAS but some are saying it works fine with windows. Some others say it doesn't work at all and some say performance was not great... so I guess at the end of the day IF this was cheap and IF it worked great and was super fast then it would be an awesome add-on for some of us, but maybe not right now. I'm still searching for a good NVMe solution.


Yeah, I see the only benefit of getting that card would be the need to get it working perfectly thereby giving one the "gumption" to dive into their board once again.

What do you mean exactly when you say you're still searching for a good NVMe solution?

I thought you were one of the few like me who are now on NVMe with their RIVBE boards.


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> Yeah, I see the only benefit of getting that card would be the need to get it working perfectly thereby giving one the "gumption" to dive into their board once again.
> 
> What do you mean exactly when you say you're still searching for a good NVMe solution?
> 
> I thought you were one of the few like me who are now on NVMe with their RIVBE boards.



Nope, not yet.. I'm currently just using an LSI 9260-8i and 3 SSDs in RAID 0.. was amazing when I first got it but NVMe stomps all over it now. NVMe is the next logical upgrade for me. I snagged the 1680v2 to get 8 cores and only things left to get now are NVMe and 10GB to "modernize" these beauties. I've got the custom BIOS already flashed of course so I'm ready for NVMe but I am not sure what to get. Is it literally "Anything I choose" or does it need discussion? Is the new NVMe BIOS support only when using a PCI-e adapter or does it also apply to NVMe PCI-e cards that actually have a dedicated controller on them also? Do both boot on this board or only one of them.. These are some of the questions I have about it. I am trying to make sure I get the right controller because I want RAID 0 capabilities, the ability for the array to be bootable (not all of them are) and have good drivers (not some no-name crapola lol).


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> Nope, not yet.. I'm currently just using an LSI 9260-8i and 3 SSDs in RAID 0.. was amazing when I first got it but NVMe stomps all over it now. NVMe is the next logical upgrade for me. I snagged the 1680v2 to get 8 cores and only things left to get now are NVMe and 10GB to "modernize" these beauties. I've got the custom BIOS already flashed of course so I'm ready for NVMe but I am not sure what to get. Is it literally "Anything I choose" or does it need discussion? Is the new NVMe BIOS support only when using a PCI-e adapter or does it also apply to NVMe PCI-e cards that actually have a dedicated controller on them also? Do both boot on this board or only one of them.. These are some of the questions I have about it. I am trying to make sure I get the right controller because I want RAID 0 capabilities, the ability for the array to be bootable (not all of them are) and have good drivers (not some no-name crapola lol).


Right now I am not entirely sure what to tell you. I ordered two different cards and both worked pretty well. I ordered the second one because it has the ability to support a second NVMe card (but only in the B key configuration which is Sata 6g). I believe neither have their own controller onboard but I could be wrong. Here are the two I ordered:

The Ableconn PEXM2

The SilverStone SST ECM20


----------



## Shadowarez

Have you seen the asrock 4x nvme card or the Msi one that supports 4x nvme Drives? 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## SparkyBoy006

*Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE Drivers and BIOS 11/14/18 Spectre/Meltdown Update & NVMe*

*Download the Latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE Driver/BIOS Pack HERE*
_MD5_: 3c8fe20401930472c6a6d3ed3fd46944
*Read the included ReadMe files for any special instructions or notes!*


*Updated Drivers:*
-Asmedia_USB3_1.16.54.1
-ASUS_AI_Suite3_WIN10_V3.00.16_0626 (New Ai Suite 3 was added)
-Intel_Chipset_10.1.17833.8098 
(run “/your/path/here/SetupChipset.exe -overall” from CMD Prompt. “-overall” addition to path will force update all the inf files in device manager)
-Intel_LAN_23.2
-Intel_RST_Drivers_&_Software_Set_v16.7.1.1012
-Realtek_HDAudio_8549

*Updated BIOS with:*
(Meltdown and Spectre mitigation updates)
-CPU Microcode 0306E4 IVB-E - 42D 
-CPU Microcode 0206D7 SNB-E - 714
-CPU Microcode 0206D6 SNB-E - 61D

-Updated NVMe BIOS driver


WARNING: Per Intel instructions, make sure to disable Bitlocker (if you have it enabled) before flashing BIOS with CPU Microcode update! (You can safely re-enable after flashing)

Original Post at ROG Asus Forum


----------



## Madmaxneo

SparkyBoy006 said:


> *Download the Latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE Driver/BIOS Pack HERE*
> _MD5_: 3c8fe20401930472c6a6d3ed3fd46944
> *Read the included ReadMe files for any special instructions or notes!*
> 
> 
> *Updated Drivers:*
> -Asmedia_USB3_1.16.54.1
> -ASUS_AI_Suite3_WIN10_V3.00.16_0626 (New Ai Suite 3 was added)
> -Intel_Chipset_10.1.17833.8098
> 
> 
> WARNING: Per Intel instructions, make sure to disable Bitlocker (if you have it enabled) before flashing BIOS with CPU Microcode update! (You can safely re-enable after flashing)
> 
> Original Post at ROG Asus Forum




Thank you yet again SparkyBoy006!!


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> Right now I am not entirely sure what to tell you. I ordered two different cards and both worked pretty well. I ordered the second one because it has the ability to support a second NVMe card (but only in the B key configuration which is Sata 6g). I believe neither have their own controller onboard but I could be wrong. Here are the two I ordered:
> 
> The Ableconn PEXM2
> 
> The SilverStone SST ECM20


Yes thanks for the recommendation. You're right they don't have an onboard controller. I would really prefer a dedicated controller for RAID so I'm not using CPU based raid. ty





Shadowarez said:


> Have you seen the asrock 4x nvme card or the Msi one that supports 4x nvme Drives?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk



Thanks, it looks pretty nice. According to this page the X79 (or X99) isn't supported. I think it needs Intel's vROC to work.

https://www.asrock.com/mb/spec/product.asp?model=ULTRA QUAD M.2 CARD#MotherboardSL
_**PCIe x16 needs to be divided to four PCIe x4 lanes by the motherboard, please make sure your motherboard supports this function. For ASRock products, please refer to support list to check more detail._

ty though


----------



## ElevenEleven

SparkyBoy006 said:


> *Download the Latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE Driver/BIOS Pack HERE*
> _MD5_: 3c8fe20401930472c6a6d3ed3fd46944
> *Read the included ReadMe files for any special instructions or notes!*
> 
> 
> *Updated Drivers:*
> -Asmedia_USB3_1.16.54.1
> -ASUS_AI_Suite3_WIN10_V3.00.16_0626 (New Ai Suite 3 was added)
> -Intel_Chipset_10.1.17833.8098
> (run “/your/path/here/SetupChipset.exe -overall” from CMD Prompt. “-overall” addition to path will force update all the inf files in device manager)
> -Intel_LAN_23.2
> -Intel_RST_Drivers_&_Software_Set_v16.7.1.1012
> -Realtek_HDAudio_8549
> 
> *Updated BIOS with:*
> (Meltdown and Spectre mitigation updates)
> -CPU Microcode 0306E4 IVB-E - 42D
> -CPU Microcode 0206D7 SNB-E - 714
> -CPU Microcode 0206D6 SNB-E - 61D
> 
> -Updated NVMe BIOS driver
> 
> 
> WARNING: Per Intel instructions, make sure to disable Bitlocker (if you have it enabled) before flashing BIOS with CPU Microcode update! (You can safely re-enable after flashing)
> 
> Original Post at ROG Asus Forum


Thank you for these!

Is the listed BIOS update required as a prerequisite for any of these driver updates? I'm currently on the latest WHQL non-beta BIOS from ASUS directly for RIVBE.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

ElevenEleven said:


> Thank you for these!
> 
> Is the listed BIOS update required as a prerequisite for any of these driver updates? I'm currently on the latest WHQL non-beta BIOS from ASUS directly for RIVBE.


You're welcome. The BIOS update is not a prerequisite for the driver updates, but it's highly recommended to update the BIOS and the Intel MEI firmware for security purposes. The utilities folder has tools to check if your system is vulnerable to Meltdown and Spectre and Intel has a tool https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/27150?v=t to detect Intel ME vulnerability. If they show your system as vulnerable, flash the updates and then check again after and you should be protected.


----------



## ElevenEleven

SparkyBoy006 said:


> You're welcome. The BIOS update is not a prerequisite for the driver updates, but it's highly recommended to update the BIOS and the Intel MEI firmware for security purposes. The utilities folder has tools to check if your system is vulnerable to Meltdown and Spectre and Intel has a tool https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/27150?v=t to detect Intel ME vulnerability. If they show your system as vulnerable, flash the updates and then check again after and you should be protected.


Thank you. Used the tool, says my system is not vulnerable. I'll stick with the current BIOS for now (a lot of customized settings to save and redo otherwise).

Is there some kind of a summary on what these updated drivers include over the previous versions? I.e. the benefits of doing the driver updates if everything appears to be working well under Windows 10 already?


----------



## Madmaxneo

ElevenEleven said:


> Thank you. Used the tool, says my system is not vulnerable. I'll stick with the current BIOS for now (a lot of customized settings to save and redo otherwise).
> 
> Is there some kind of a summary on what these updated drivers include over the previous versions? I.e. the benefits of doing the driver updates if everything appears to be working well under Windows 10 already?


Not sure what the updated drivers have over the last update but I may try and update everything this weekend when I flush my system and reapply TIM to the CPU. On a side note there is a way to save your settings to USB, although I am not sure if it will work when you update the bios......


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> Not sure what the updated drivers have over the last update but I may try and update everything this weekend when I flush my system and reapply TIM to the CPU. On a side note there is a way to save your settings to USB, although I am not sure if it will work when you update the bios......


Yes you can save to a USB. The profiles will not load if the BIOS version is different however if the version is the same but one is stock and the other is modified then the profiles WILL load.


----------



## Laithan

Well... I took the plunge and installed the E5-1680 V2... (yay) it was not without much pain (unfortunately due to my mistake)...it is running... sort of..

The short version of this story is that draining my loop and having to remove my CPU block resulted in (curse words) some water leaking out of the chipset block. This happened when I changed the orientation of the case to apply the CPU TIM. That's when the loop that I thought was fully drained, decided to burp out a little water and directly into the side of the socket where it seeped underneath. _*the problem is, I didn't know this happened..*_ the water was not visible it must have just been the perfect angle and the perfect spot when the drop dripped...

So... after putting everything back together and filling the loop I press the POWER button...on then immediately off.. the system would not turn on.. It would just start and then immediately shut off over and over. *I didn't know at this time* there was moisture in the socket. I couldn't see anything wrong so troubleshooting eventually led me to draining my loop (that I just bled... more curse words) and removing the CPU block to re-seat the CPU. I removed the block, cleaned off the TIM and removed the CPU... _this is when I noticed moisture in the socket_... well, there's my problem *<DOH>*

Dried it with warm air and let it sit overnight.. Next day, said some prayers to the motherboard gods put the CPU and block back on and tried to boot real quick.. Yay! It booted.. MB isn't blown! CPU isn't blown! (I never wanted to hear the sweet sound of that high pitched post "BEEP" so much). Guess it helped that I was using distilled water... or did it?

Fast forward, got the loop filled and bled, leak test, etc... I take the PC into my office and hook it back up... it boots but instead of 32GB of ram I only have 24GB (WTH!)... so after troubleshooting I realize the problem is that *I now have some bad DIMM slots  ... The left bank DIMM socket 3 & 4 (B1 & B2) no longer work properly*. The strange thing is that the PC will boot and despite it only reading 24GB, CPU-z and AIDA will still show me as having (4) 8GB DIMMs installed... it is able to read the SPD.

So I didn't survive the battle without wounds... all I could do was attempt to try and get 32GB working another way... so I ended up using DIMM 1&2 on the left bank (A1 & A2) and DIMM 2&4 on the right bank (D1 & C1). Now it will read 32GB, so I'm back to all 4 DIMMs working however they are not working in quad channel mode anymore as this configuration results in Triple Channel mode.  I have basically lost quad channel mode now.

I guess my stupid mistake (hey it happens) is going to cost me..* if anyone has a RIVBE for sale please let me know*. I'm going to just have to eat the cost and get a new motherboard.. :2cents::madsmiley unless anyone has any other idea. Ty


----------



## airisom2

Sorry to hear that man. Sounds like something that would happen to me haha. It's always that one thing that you overlook or say in the back of your head it'll be alright, and it ends up biting you in the rear. Found this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-X79-R...h=item4d82229db0:g:7TUAAOSwH7lb9bx1:rk:2:pf:0

Not a terrible price for a hard to find flagship board. You can try messaging him to see if he can come down a bit more.


----------



## Ice009

Hey guys, I'm still using my Asus Rampage 4 Formula and was wondering if just upgrading the CPU to one of these Xeons some people are using would hold me over for a while longer? I've seen people list the E5 1680 V2 on another forum (I also see Laithan up above has one), but I didn't see it listed as a supported CPU in the latest BIOS release for the MB. Do you need a modded BIOS to use it? Also, are these Xeons fully unlocked to overclock? Are some locked? If so, how do you know which ones are unlocked? 

How much would I be looking at to buy one? What is the average price that these go for?

I've also been thinking of trying an NVMe drive if I were to buy a PCI-e NVMe adapter (I was going to get the Silverstone ECM22). Would the drive run at full speed if I were to use it with my 3930K, or am I going to have to get an IVY Bridge E CPU? These is some modded BIOS files over at the ROG forums, so I was going to install one of those. Is there anywhere else I can get modded BIOSes from?


----------



## airisom2

It should support it. Just make sure you have the latest bios version. You don't need a modded bios. For SB-E/IB-E, the single socket xeons are unlocked (eg. *1*680 v2). Dual sockets and up are locked (eg. *2*680 v2). Got mine for $330, just depends on how low the seller will go if you can make an offer. Most I've seen sold for around 330-380. 

NVMe will depend on the BIOS. I believe the R4BE supports NVMe natively, but it and other boards will need a modded bios module if you want to boot from them. Here's a guide that shows you how to mod the bios to add updated nvme drivers. Alternatively, someone may already have a modded bios for your board that you can download. Just search the threads, and if not, then you'll have to make one. 

The SSD should run at full speed. Earlier X79 motherboards and SB-E processors had issues with running at 3.0 either due to firmware issues or the pci controller on the processor not being fast enough to support the doubled bandwidth. When I had a 3820 and Asrock X79 Champion, I was able to run at 3.0 flawlessly. If you already have a pcie 3.0 graphics card, open up gpu-z and see what it says when you put a load on the card. If you're running at 2.0 x16, then you'll have to get an IB-E cpu.

Edit:

A 1680 v2 at around 4.4-4.5 will give you performance comparable to an 1800X at 4.0. Not bad, and quad channel DDR3 still offers a lot of bandwidth. 1680 V2 is worth it if you don't want to completely change core components and you can utilize the extra multi-thread it offers over the 6 core parts. SB-E is roughly 200-300MHz slower than IB-E, so a 4.5GHz 4930K is comparable to a 4.7GHz 3930K, though IB-E has a better mem controller and you won't have to worry about PCIe 3.0 issues. I came from a 4.3GHz 4930K, and the extra threads, larger cache, and better single thread performance due to it being at 4.5GHz helped me do things that I wasn't able to on the 4930K (Cemu BOTW emulation 4k 30fps). The extra 2 cores won't make much of a difference in current games, though. They seem to peak at 4-6 cores. You'll have to determine if the extra multithread performance the 1680 v2 has will benefit you. If your 3930K is a dud at overclocking, you might get better framerates in games that like fast per-core performance. Intel selects the highest quality dies for use as Xeon processors, and the lower quality ones are trickled down to the mainstream lineup (i5, i7, etc.). I think all 1680 V2's I've seen reports of can to to at least 4.5 around 1.28-1.35v, but it's not a guarantee. 

Also, you can cool an overclocked 1680 V2 on air, given you have good case airflow and a beefy cpu cooler (D15, LGM RT, DRP3, etc.). You also can't run P95, LinX, and other extremely intensive stress tests because you'll hit TJMax quickly (on air), and they're not necessary imo. With those stress tests and a ~1.33v 1680 v2 at 4.5-ish will draw 260w+ (HWInfo/AIDA/Openhardwaremonitor cpu package power). Realistic stress tests like Realbench will draw closer to 200W which is roughly as high as you want to go on air with these chips unless you have faster (louder) fans.


----------



## Ice009

Hi Airisom2, thanks for the reply. I have a Noctua NH-D14 (the performance should be similar/close to the NH-D15). I've had the 3930K overlocked to 4.5Ghz before, but put it back to stock last summer due to it running a little too hot for my liking (I don't have air con). When I had it overclocked, I had it offset overclocked as I didn't want it running at 4.5Ghz all the time and also wanted it to idle at a lower voltage and save a bit of power at the same time. Can you overclock the Xeons like that too?

Thanks for the info on the 1680 V2. Great to hear that the single socket Xeons are unlocked. Thanks for explaining the difference in numbering scheme between the single socket and dual socket Xeons. I didn't know the significance of the numbers in the model number. So if I had my 3930K at 4.5Ghz, the 1680 V2 would only need to be at 4.2Ghz to match it's performance in single threaded applications? 

Also, you mentioned TJ Max? What is that exactly and the the Xeons have a lower TJ Max?

By the way, sorry for posting in this thread. I thought I posted in the Rampage 4 X79 thread.

Is there anywhere I can compare the performance of older CPUs such as my 3930K to see how it stacks up to a newer CPU? Also, which of those hardware monitoring programs do you recommend? I guess I could try running the NVMe SSD with the 3930K to see if it runs at PCI-e 3.0. I don't have any PCI-e 3.0 video cards to test with (that's the next thing I need to upgrade after the SSD drive as my current Crucial M4 is down to 7% health due to too many writes on it. Since I need to get a new SSD, I thought I'd see if I should try an NVMe one instead of getting another SATA III one.


----------



## airisom2

Yeah, give or take. It's been a while since I saw SB-E IB-E comparos, but I think 200MHz was the number. You can use an offset voltage if you want the ~0.8v idle (that's what I'm using). D14 should be up to the task since the two perform roughly the same, fans constant. 

Thermal junction max. Just a max temp for the processor. If it hits that, the cpu will throttle clocks. We're at 95C on the 1680 v2s. I wouldn't want to go beyond 80 when realbench stress testing, though.


----------



## Laithan

Ice009 said:


> Hey guys, I'm still using my Asus Rampage 4 Formula and was wondering if just upgrading the CPU to one of these Xeons some people are using would hold me over for a while longer? I've seen people list the E5 1680 V2 on another forum (I also see Laithan up above has one), but I didn't see it listed as a supported CPU in the latest BIOS release for the MB. Do you need a modded BIOS to use it? Also, are these Xeons fully unlocked to overclock? Are some locked? If so, how do you know which ones are unlocked?
> 
> How much would I be looking at to buy one? What is the average price that these go for?
> 
> I've also been thinking of trying an NVMe drive if I were to buy a PCI-e NVMe adapter (I was going to get the Silverstone ECM22). Would the drive run at full speed if I were to use it with my 3930K, or am I going to have to get an IVY Bridge E CPU? These is some modded BIOS files over at the ROG forums, so I was going to install one of those. Is there anywhere else I can get modded BIOSes from?


Just to elaborate further, you will need the _*modded*_ BIOS for NVMe support. Only SATA 6 is supported native. There is a post only a page or two back linking all the info you need for that. The modded BIOS also addresses the Specture/Meltdown vulnerabilities. There are other updates also such as the Intel MEI update that fixes a critical vulnerability for the management engine. I don't think NVMe performance will have much variation regardless of what CPU you have installed but the best choice for this platform is IVY-e.

Any XEON that is a E5-16xx is unlocked but there is only ONE 8-core CPU for X79 and it is the E5-1680 V2. The 1650/1660 are both 6-cores. I paid $305 for my 1680 if I remember (they were $1000 and above for the longest time). You'll need to go to X99 for any other 8-core that is unlocked which makes it a very special CPU for X79. These CPUs come from extremely expensive MAC PROs and have an unheard of 25MB cache. This is the same amount of cache used in a 10-core E5-2690 V2. So far I've got my 1680 V2 running at 4.5Ghz but I just started overclocking so I have a long way to go to find out the limits. I would personally try to find a CPU that was a MAC PRO pull. Any other 1680 V2 that didn't come from a MAC PRO has likely either been overclocked by someone else (you won't know how hard it was pushed).. or has been tested to be a "dud" with regard to overclocking and someone bought/swapped selling the one that performed worse. Another good thing about the E5-16xx V2 is that they all have a soldered IHS.

My opinion is that X79 has plenty of life left... with the modded NMVe support it just further extends the life and also adds support for 128GB of memory. These are incredible motherboards with plenty of PCI-e lanes and I am perfectly happy with 6 or 8-cores on this platform. Outside of synthetic benchmarks, it is right up there with the latest systems with regard to user experience.


----------



## Laithan

Ice009 said:


> I don't have any PCI-e 3.0 video cards to test with.


You won't really notice a difference. PCI-e 2.0 16x is still more than sufficient for a GPU's bandwidth requirements (even high end GPUs). Most of the data doesn't travel over PCI-e the GPU gets the textures and then renders directly out to the monitor. The only way you are really going to see a performance difference is with something like NVMe storage for the average user.


----------



## Ice009

Thanks for the reply Laithan. I've got the Rampage 4 Formula, as I posted in the wrong thread, I don't think the modded BIOS a couple of pages back would be suitable for this MB.

I'd like to see where the X79 3xxx and 4xxx series stacks up to newer CPUs. Is there any websites that have comparisons to the newer CPUs?


----------



## alancsalt

Think modded bios available at:
[Official] ASUS ROG Rampage IV X79 Owner's Club
https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...al-asus-rog-rampage-iv-x79-owner-s-club.html?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> Well... I took the plunge and installed the E5-1680 V2... (yay) it was not without much pain (unfortunately due to my mistake)...it is running... sort of..
> 
> The short version of this story is that draining my loop and having to remove my CPU block resulted in (curse words) some water leaking out of the chipset block. This happened when I changed the orientation of the case to apply the CPU TIM. That's when the loop that I thought was fully drained, decided to burp out a little water and directly into the side of the socket where it seeped underneath. _*the problem is, I didn't know this happened..*_ the water was not visible it must have just been the perfect angle and the perfect spot when the drop dripped...
> 
> So... after putting everything back together and filling the loop I press the POWER button...on then immediately off.. the system would not turn on.. It would just start and then immediately shut off over and over. *I didn't know at this time* there was moisture in the socket. I couldn't see anything wrong so troubleshooting eventually led me to draining my loop (that I just bled... more curse words) and removing the CPU block to re-seat the CPU. I removed the block, cleaned off the TIM and removed the CPU... _this is when I noticed moisture in the socket_... well, there's my problem *<DOH>*
> 
> Dried it with warm air and let it sit overnight.. Next day, said some prayers to the motherboard gods put the CPU and block back on and tried to boot real quick.. Yay! It booted.. MB isn't blown! CPU isn't blown! (I never wanted to hear the sweet sound of that high pitched post "BEEP" so much). Guess it helped that I was using distilled water... or did it?
> 
> Fast forward, got the loop filled and bled, leak test, etc... I take the PC into my office and hook it back up... it boots but instead of 32GB of ram I only have 24GB (WTH!)... so after troubleshooting I realize the problem is that *I now have some bad DIMM slots  ... The left bank DIMM socket 3 & 4 (B1 & B2) no longer work properly*. The strange thing is that the PC will boot and despite it only reading 24GB, CPU-z and AIDA will still show me as having (4) 8GB DIMMs installed... it is able to read the SPD.
> 
> So I didn't survive the battle without wounds... all I could do was attempt to try and get 32GB working another way... so I ended up using DIMM 1&2 on the left bank (A1 & A2) and DIMM 2&4 on the right bank (D1 & C1). Now it will read 32GB, so I'm back to all 4 DIMMs working however they are not working in quad channel mode anymore as this configuration results in Triple Channel mode.  I have basically lost quad channel mode now.
> 
> I guess my stupid mistake (hey it happens) is going to cost me..* if anyone has a RIVBE for sale please let me know*. I'm going to just have to eat the cost and get a new motherboard.. :2cents::madsmiley unless anyone has any other idea. Ty


<Darth Vader Voice> NOOO!! 
I hope you get another great RIVBE! If something like this happened to me I would have to go with a new setup...unfortunately.


----------



## Shadowarez

@Madmaxneo Have you tried hitting the mem ok! Button I had a similar issue were my 32gb of Dom Plats only showed 24 GB. Hit that let it post to win confirmed it all showed up then reaplied the oc to mem and CPU 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Madmaxneo

Shadowarez said:


> @Madmaxneo Have you tried hitting the mem ok! Button I had a similar issue were my 32gb of Dom Plats only showed 24 GB. Hit that let it post to win confirmed it all showed up then reaplied the oc to mem and CPU
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


It was @Laithan that has the issue


----------



## Laithan

Shadowarez said:


> @Madmaxneo Have you tried hitting the mem ok! Button I had a similar issue were my 32gb of Dom Plats only showed 24 GB. Hit that let it post to win confirmed it all showed up then reaplied the oc to mem and CPU
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


I will try this now TY!

I sure could use an "EASY BUTTON" right about now...



*EDIT: *Unfortunately it didn't help and when I rebooted the BIOS screen came up with a middle finger too... lol. Thank you for the suggestion, I had never used that button before.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> I will try this now TY!
> 
> I sure could use an "EASY BUTTON" right about now...
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT: *Unfortunately it didn't help and when I rebooted the BIOS screen came up with a middle finger too... lol. Thank you for the suggestion, I had never used that button before.


Maybe you can try getting one of those sonic cleaning tanks and run it through that. They have them on Amazon, although I am not even sure if they have one with a large enough tank to even fit one end of this MB in it. It is something I would at least try as I would be desperate to get this board working properly again!...lol.


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> Maybe you can try getting one of those sonic cleaning tanks and run it through that. They have them on Amazon, although I am not even sure if they have one with a large enough tank to even fit one end of this MB in it. It is something I would at least try as I would be desperate to get this board working properly again!...lol.


I just bought another one today... <sigh> ... this means a full teardown and rebuild... and the sentence I must serve for my crime :Snorkle:


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> I just bought another one today... <sigh> ... this means a full teardown and rebuild... and the sentence I must serve for my crime :Snorkle:


Good luck!!

I have a slightly older (2016) Asus gaming laptop I bought off a friend for $30. It doesn't boot up or even accept a charge at all. I did notice some kind residue on the mainboard. But if I can't get it to work by just cleaning it out I may have to try one of those sonic cleaners myself....lol.


----------



## Ice009

Laithan said:


> You won't really notice a difference. PCI-e 2.0 16x is still more than sufficient for a GPU's bandwidth requirements (even high end GPUs). Most of the data doesn't travel over PCI-e the GPU gets the textures and then renders directly out to the monitor. The only way you are really going to see a performance difference is with something like NVMe storage for the average user.


I should have asked, if I stick with my 3930K on the Rampage 4 Formula, will that hinder the performance of an NVMe SSD? Would I need an Ivy-E CPU to get the max speed out of the NVMe drive, or will the NVMe drive still run at full speed? The reason I say that is, I thought I read both the Rampage 4 Formula and Rampage 4 Extreme were wired electrically for PCI-e 3.0, but it was the SB-E CPUs that kept it in PCI-e 2.0 mode.

I just don't know what to do. If I should just get a regular SATA III Samsung 960 EVO or an NVMe 970 EVO with a PCI-e adapter. I want to take advantage of this cashback offer Samsung have up until the end of next month.

I can always try and get one of these Xeons later on if I find one for a decent price.


----------



## Laithan

Ice009 said:


> I should have asked, if I stick with my 3930K on the Rampage 4 Formula, will that hinder the performance of an NVMe SSD? Would I need an Ivy-E CPU to get the max speed out of the NVMe drive, or will the NVMe drive still run at full speed? The reason I say that is, I thought I read both the Rampage 4 Formula and Rampage 4 Extreme were wired electrically for PCI-e 3.0, but it was the SB-E CPUs that kept it in PCI-e 2.0 mode.
> 
> I just don't know what to do. If I should just get a regular SATA III Samsung 960 EVO or an NVMe 970 EVO with a PCI-e adapter. I want to take advantage of this cashback offer Samsung have up until the end of next month.
> 
> I can always try and get one of these Xeons later on if I find one for a decent price.


SB-E is limited to PCI-e on the CPU itself however PCI-e 2.1 = 8GBs bandwidth... Can your storage choice exceed that? 

PS. I saw another Mac PRO pull, grade A chip on ebay for a little over $300...


----------



## psyclist

Took forever for my E5 1660 V2 to ship from China but it looks like shes a keeper! Finally a chip worthy of the RIVBE...


----------



## Laithan

So I've been spending a bit of time with the E5-1680 V2 (8 cores)... 

My previous CPU on this board was an E5-1650 V2 (6 cores). The 1680 appears to behave differently in some ways than my 1650 did with regard to overclocking and memory speed. Since I was coming from an almost identical CPU (just 2 more cores, and some more cache but otherwise identical architecture) I assumed that my existing BIOS settings/overclock that I used for my 1650 would easily carry right over to the new CPU...I would just have to make some minor adjustments to find my CPU's limits, and I would be good.. *That's not how it went at all...*

I found my existing settings that worked fine with my 1650 to be so bad for my 1680 that I literally just started over and didn't use them. I had trouble even getting them to post. Long story short I got to the point where I can get 4.5Ghz stable (with actually less voltage than what my 1650 needed for that speed) however I am running into issues when I try to push to 4.6Ghz or higher.. Memory speed is much more sensitive and I usually run into trouble running them @ 2400Mhz so I have to lower memory speeds. *The symptoms are random shutdowns and reboots.* I put the speed back to 4.5Ghz and they go away. I realize that I'm nearing the limits of the CPU @ 4.5Ghz however I'm only at 1.36v (and I think I can go lower) so I feel like I should be able to hit 4.6Ghz or maybe even 4.7Ghz (for benchmarks) if I juice it all the way up to 1.45v but no matter how much voltage I give it, I'm not scaling. The thing is, I _*would*_ be scaling at this point with my 1650.. As far as temps, 4.5Ghz I'm ~30's @ idle and ~60's under load. Plenty of thermal headroom (the VRMs/chipset is under water also).

So my question is, does anyone know if there is something in the BIOS that may allow additional overclocking headroom when using an 8 core vs a 6 core? I'm already using the typical recommend stuff for this board but there's an ocean of settings... what else might help an 8 core or do you think I'm just at the limits? Ty in advance


----------



## Ice009

Laithan said:


> SB-E is limited to PCI-e on the CPU itself however PCI-e 2.1 = 8GBs bandwidth... Can your storage choice exceed that?
> 
> PS. I saw another Mac PRO pull, grade A chip on ebay for a little over $300...


Hi Laithan,

Thanks for the info. I guess PCI-express 2.0 will be enough if I put it in a PCI-express x16 slot? I've got two GTX 680s running in SLI that are installed in the two PCI-express slots that run @ x16, so if I put the NVMe adapter card in the last PCI-e x16 slot, I guess it will run at x8 PCI-e 2.0 with SB-E? Is that correct? I assume a x16 PCI-e slot running at x8 PCI-e 2.0 is the same speed as a x4 slot running at PCI-e 3.0?

The NVMe drive that I am looking to buy is the Samsung 970 EVO. Also, do you have a link to that Ebay listing for the CPU? Has that CPU sold yet? If so, any chance you could PM links if you were see them come up for sale at around the $300 price range?


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have been having an issue now for quite some time. I believe it has to do with voltage regulation (or something similar) on the MB. Every now and then at random times and while doing a variety of different things on my PC (idle, gaming, browsing, etc), my system will freeze up. The only way to bring it back up is to do a reset. 

I have tried all kinds of things here and there and nothing seems to have worked. Plus there is no indication anywhere as to what may be happening. Note also that it does not matter if my CPU is OC'd or not, the system freezes still happen at random times. 

My question to someone more knowledgeable than I: Are there any settings in the BIOS that I can adjust to maybe help stop these seemingly random freezes?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Could be ram. Up the voltage for vdimm. Or lower ram multi and or timings. Still freezes, install a single stick to test at a time. Another thing it could be is a bad psu.


----------



## Madmaxneo

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Could be ram. Up the voltage for vdimm. Or lower ram multi and or timings. Still freezes, install a single stick to test at a time. Another thing it could be is a bad psu.


I've mentioned this before. It has now been going on for over a year. During that time I had only two sticks in my system for a short while and it still froze up every now and then. 

I used to believe it was a windows issue as many told me that it was somewhat common. Now I believe otherwise. 

Also if it was the PSU (in my sig) then wouldn't it get worse over time or at least worse when using lots of power? The system freezes at completely random times, my system could be at idle or I could be doing a benchmark or a stress test (although it seems to happen less when doing those things, but it does happen).... It is a bit perplexing.


----------



## psyclist

So what do you guys think...4.7 is stable at 1.375/1.36 under load. Now i see 4.8 is stable at 1.425/1.408 under load 

Chip is under 420mm of rad space, so stays at around 70 degrees under P95, usually use realbench though and temps dont get as hot. What do you guys think? 

Im thinkin 4.7 is nice, 4.8 perhaps, just isnt worth it? but does make for some pretty solid scores! 

Thanks to all the posters in here! lotsa valuable info! and to the folks keeping the drivers and bios mods and microcode patches alive!


----------



## Kimir

Just run it at 4.8, my 4930k have been at 4.8Ghz 1.4v for years now.


----------



## Laithan

https://www.overclock.net/forum/27763294-post15354.html


----------



## skupples

just wanna say, i'm still happy to this day for purchasing this board. 

I just picked up a 9700k & $200 board, & in that moment of unboxing, I remembered why I shelled out so much dough for this beast. 

I plan on sticking it all into the smallest case i can, with my 1070, & keeping it FOREVER as my backup rig.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

*CBF upgrading my gear*

Still got mine but still have usb , bios switch and no o/c issues , gets 55 / od codes from when I gave it a static discharge 6mths ago . So I have to boot it up with NO usb devices or even cables connected . Sometimes it take 6 attempts to boot it sometimes just one . But when up and running I can game and still do what I need lol :thumb:


----------



## airisom2

Laithan said:


> https://www.overclock.net/forum/27763294-post15354.html


If you haven't already done so, disable power limit.


----------



## Laithan

Ice009 said:


> Hi Laithan,
> 
> Thanks for the info. I guess PCI-express 2.0 will be enough if I put it in a PCI-express x16 slot? I've got two GTX 680s running in SLI that are installed in the two PCI-express slots that run @ x16, so if I put the NVMe adapter card in the last PCI-e x16 slot, I guess it will run at x8 PCI-e 2.0 with SB-E? Is that correct? I assume a x16 PCI-e slot running at x8 PCI-e 2.0 is the same speed as a x4 slot running at PCI-e 3.0?
> 
> The NVMe drive that I am looking to buy is the Samsung 970 EVO. Also, do you have a link to that Ebay listing for the CPU? Has that CPU sold yet? If so, any chance you could PM links if you were see them come up for sale at around the $300 price range?


Check the BIOS, there is a lane simulator. Yes, you are correct about the equivalent speeds. 




airisom2 said:


> If you haven't already done so, disable power limit.


Thanks, appreciate the reply. I don't recall that specific setting but I'll take a look. TY


*EDIT: *Checked, there is nothing called "Power limit". Can you please elaborate? Power Savings? Power Management? Current Capability or something else?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Yes, max out Current Capability.


----------



## skupples

didn't you discover that fix, MR.TS?


----------



## psyclist

Makes sense as the board was never designed for an 8 core, let alone an overclocked 8 core. 

Im happy with the 1660 v2 @ 4.8 as im mostly just gaming these days. But those scores from the 1680 are awesome!


----------



## Laithan

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Yes, max out Current Capability.


This helped a lot... the random reboots/shutdowns were definitely power related

Thank you


----------



## skupples

Rebirth!! my “it’s black” build is moving into an actually black n glass case from CM

I figure the EK blocks are just as good as passive stock blocks until I can get an order in for a pump, res, etc.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am having some serious issues with my board. It has started to freeze up like every 5 to 10 mins, it seems like only when playing a game. Sometimes I get a bsod but mostly everything goes dark and I have to reset. I ran Heaven just fine with pretty good scores and now I am running the trial version of Aida64. But what other decent stress or benchmark programs are out there that will test everything? I had Aida64 before and it was free but now they want to charge for it. I don't really like Prime95 because of a bad experience with it in the past but there were others I used before but I do not remember what they were. 

I dropped all my OC down to stock and even reset it to optimized defaults but nothing seems to help. 

A recent issue I have is my games drive (where all my video games are) would sometimes not register. Sometimes it would show up with a restart but sometimes it wouldn't. I eventually figured out that if I push on the Sata connector when it was off it would show up up just fine when rebooted. I moved the Sata connectors down (technically up one) and am running Aida64 trial right now with no issues so far. I will run Firestrike next, maybe something will show up in that....


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Sata cable is the easiest item to replace.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sata cable is the easiest item to replace.


I assume that is in response to me. Yeah I thought of that, but the cable looks fine (still looks new). It ran Firestrike just fine and right now I am checked the games disk for errors but no errors were found. It seems like my entire system freezes only when playing a game. It doesn't freeze when running Firestrike or any other benchmark or stress test I can find. So I am a little perplexed on this. If it was the cable then how come it only happens when running a game and so far in no other test or condition?


----------



## skupples

Madmaxneo said:


> I assume that is in response to me. Yeah I thought of that, but the cable looks fine (still looks new). It ran Firestrike just fine and right now I am checked the games disk for errors but no errors were found. It seems like my entire system freezes only when playing a game. It doesn't freeze when running Firestrike or any other benchmark or stress test I can find. So I am a little perplexed on this. If it was the cable then how come it only happens when running a game and so far in no other test or condition?


As forest Gump once said... stuff happens.

I don't have a super sciency answer for you, unfortunately. However, I can say this (after spending many years working in some form of support) SATA cables do weird stuff. They can show up from the factory, plugged into a prebuilt, & be defective.


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> As forest Gump once said... stuff happens.
> 
> I don't have a super sciency answer for you, unfortunately. However, I can say this (after spending many years working in some form of support) SATA cables do weird stuff. They can show up from the factory, plugged into a prebuilt, & be defective.


I'll change it out and hopefully that will be the issue. Unfortunately I don't think I have another angled connector so hopefully I can get a normal straight connector in there (I remember running into issues with using two straight connectors on top of each other). I ran CrystalDiskMark and the drive checks out fine if not decent.


----------



## skupples

also - check your handbook / the PDF - there is only one intel stack in the line of sata plugs, its somewhere in the middle.


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> also - check your handbook / the PDF - there is only one intel stack in the line of sata plugs, its somewhere in the middle.


Well, I replaced the plus with a straight connector and that seems to have helped. I've been playing the game now for 30 mins and no freezes. Now to go back to my OC settings and see if it still runs good. 
I actually think there are more than that, 2 or 4 I think.....Yeah there's two Intel Sata connectors, according to the manual. Oh, by stack you mean 2... apologies

Never knew a bad Sata cable could cause issues like this.....

Oh and of course I accidentally dislodged my GPU fan connector, so my GPU got a little hot....LOL....


EDIT: Here's the clincher. If you read back some ways you will see I have had issues with random daily freezes over the last year or so. Oddly enough they had not happened in the last two weeks. but then this happened. If they have stopped completely then it will apparently have been from a bad Sata connector.....


----------



## skupples

you never know what kinda little flaw is pressed inside that flat wire.


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> you never know what kinda little flaw is pressed inside that flat wire.


In replacing that wire I decided to try and organize some of the wires behind the MB (chaotic mess) and I did. But in the process I discovered and fixed another potential issue. The pin for the black wire in the little adapter/extension cable for the radiator fan (added watercooling way back) to the GPU fan connector was sliding out away from the other pins. I pulled it through and set it in place. 
But in doing that I noticed the res for my GPU was a little low again, whereas the res for my CPU is not low and has never had to be refilled. This would be the second time in the last 7 or 8 months that I have had to top off the GPU res.... I checked and see no stains for slow leaks. Well at least the GPU res is much easier to refill (can do it in system while it is running if I so choose) than the CPU res (have to take out the entire AIO loop to do that...lol).


----------



## skupples

Fluid can most definitely evaporate out over time as well. 

The one leak I ever had was so minor that I could only find it once putting a little pressure on the system. It was coming out between the sunk in thread and the radiator itself on a MonstA


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> Fluid can most definitely evaporate out over time as well.
> 
> The one leak I ever had was so minor that I could only find it once putting a little pressure on the system. It was coming out between the sunk in thread and the radiator itself on a MonstA


Yeah I figure evaporation but why only in the H140 and not any in the H240-X? They are Swiftech AIO's BTW.

So I am back to OCing and these are my settings. 
I can hit 4.4 ghz stable the last time I tried but dropped it down to 4.2ghz for daily use. 

CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum: Disabled
CPU Load Line Calibration: High
CPU Current Capability: 170%
VCCSA Load Line Calibration: High
VCCSA Current Capability: 170%
CPU VCore: 1.3
Core Ration Limit: 42 (All Cores synced)

Any suggestions on other things I should change or maybe add?


----------



## psyclist

With that kind of cooling you should be able to push more voltage (I have the same setup), allowing you to clock higher, just remember to stay under 1.4v as your limit. I use realbench to test stability and temps, P95 seems to add an unrealistic load to the CPU that ive never seen replicated anywhere in real programs used.


----------



## Madmaxneo

psyclist said:


> With that kind of cooling you should be able to push more voltage (I have the same setup), allowing you to clock higher, just remember to stay under 1.4v as your limit. I use realbench to test stability and temps, P95 seems to add an unrealistic load to the CPU that ive never seen replicated anywhere in real programs used.


I Originally tried 4.5 at up to 1.42 but it still was not stable enough to run stress tests for longer than 5 mins. I am stable at 1.3v for up to 4.4ghz, but anything higher is a no go.


----------



## skupples

I settled at 2133 4.5 on my 493 core would go higher but only at lower mem speeds.


----------



## Laithan

@Madmaxneo there are many ways to approach this but I found that doing all of the CPU overclocking while @ 1333Mhz memory can help you dial in what the CPU is capable of without memory instability getting in the way. After you are happy with the CPU overclock (stable over a few days) then save the profile as testing point and you can start to raise the memory speeds. Of course after raising memory speeds it doesn't mean you won't have to touch the CPU settings again but it can still be helpful to initially isolate memory related issues from CPU related issues as a baseline and know your CPU only limits first. 

FWIW, my procedure to test stability is pretty quick and easy... it is 95%, not 100% but it is fast and pretty reliable for me. My reasons are to save as much time as I can because IMO there's no "test" that will prove to me that my PC is stable... running Prime95 overnight isn't proving anything and just beats the crap out of a CPU. What proves stability to me is simply not having issues with what I do, over an extended period time.. All I really wanted was some reliable methods to quickly test to let me know that further testing over longer periods isn't a waste of time. 

To do this I:
(1) First and always first I run Cinebench R15.. This test is pretty quick and I find it to be very sensitive to unstable overclocks. If you cannot pass this test there is obviously no point going further, time to further tweak. I can't tell you how many times my unstable overclock appeared stable... but would fail this test every time consistently. I have a lot of confidence when using this as my "Quick N Dirty" GO-TO test.

(2) Next, I use the AIDA64 System Stability test. I choose all checkboxes except local disks. This is because I don't want to take the chance of corrupt files and usually I/O workload is offloaded from the CPU anyway. It creates a nice demanding workload on everything and allows me to monitor temps at the same time. I let it run for about 10minutes.. that's it... if temps are fine and nothing crashes within 10minutes I will consider the overclock stable enough to *just start testing it over time.*.. doing the things that I do (mostly gaming)... no need to waste any more precious time just go for it and see how it works. Playing GTA V can be a pretty good stability test.


GL!


----------



## skupples

Agreed. Ima gamer. Bench stability means little, but I’m conditioned to at least run cine’s CPU & GPU when I first get in, which is funny as modern ASUS boards use it as a tool to dial in their auto-OC, which is a much better tool than it use to be. I usually start with what it sets me it, then go from there. Up/Down, clocks/volts.


----------



## smrdel

Hello All

Been a while since I set up my 512GB Samsung Pro m.2 drive as a boot drive on my board and since i received assistance here its been working fine.

In the last 2 weeks i have had a problem which has me stumped so will post here and see if i can get any feedback.

Basically my 2 monitors lose signal - get black screens then the PC locks up. Need to do a hard shutdown. The PC boots up normally everything runs fine till same thing happens again.

When i am gaming and using Team Speak Software I get speaker distortion prior to the Monitors losing signal - going black then PC locks up. Sometimes i get the screens blacking out then turning on again - mainly just the once but also a few times 

I initially reinstalled Win 10 on the m.2 drive and fresh installed all the drivers. My initial thoughts was the GTX 980 I have maybe faulty so swapped it for the other one i have. ( I run 2 x in SLI) but same problem.

I thought it may be faulty GPU slot so took both cards out and installed one in Slot 2 only but same problem. 

I dont think its a driver issue - and if it was I wouldnt know which one is causing the issue ? maybe a recent windows update that is causing conflict but wouldnt know which one it would be ?

Do i use the latest NVIDIA drivers or the last version on the ASUS site ? I wouldnt think this would matter ?.

I have 2 further options to try but would like feedback - Could the m.2 drive have issues with it and can you test the drive to find out anything ? Because of the sound distortions i get could the onboard Sound controller be casuing the PC to lockup ?- Could i disable the onbaord sound in BIOS and throw in a Sound Card to test this possibilty ? 

2 other things would like to ask here

Whats the best way to do a fresh reinstall Windows 10 on a m.2 drive ?

I also get Nvidia Control Panel always coming up with regular messages to say G-sync monitor has connected - I would have thought that once its connected you dont have to be told again ?

Also I have 2 x Asus 27 inch monitors which are G- sync but cant seem to set both up to run at 144hz - Only seem to get 1 at 144hz and 2nd one at 60hz - Run them both of the ASUS GTX 980 Matrix card

Any help would be much appreciated

Cheers

smrdel


----------



## Madmaxneo

smrdel said:


> Hello All
> 
> Been a while since I set up my 512GB Samsung Pro m.2 drive as a boot drive on my board and since i received assistance here its been working fine.
> 
> In the last 2 weeks i have had a problem which has me stumped so will post here and see if i can get any feedback.
> 
> Basically my 2 monitors lose signal - get black screens then the PC locks up. Need to do a hard shutdown. The PC boots up normally everything runs fine till same thing happens again.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> When i am gaming and using Team Speak Software I get speaker distortion prior to the Monitors losing signal - going black then PC locks up. Sometimes i get the screens blacking out then turning on again - mainly just the once but also a few times
> 
> I initially reinstalled Win 10 on the m.2 drive and fresh installed all the drivers. My initial thoughts was the GTX 980 I have maybe faulty so swapped it for the other one i have. ( I run 2 x in SLI) but same problem.
> 
> I thought it may be faulty GPU slot so took both cards out and installed one in Slot 2 only but same problem.
> 
> I dont think its a driver issue - and if it was I wouldnt know which one is causing the issue ? maybe a recent windows update that is causing conflict but wouldnt know which one it would be ?
> 
> Do i use the latest NVIDIA drivers or the last version on the ASUS site ? I wouldnt think this would matter ?.
> 
> I have 2 further options to try but would like feedback - Could the m.2 drive have issues with it and can you test the drive to find out anything ? Because of the sound distortions i get could the onboard Sound controller be casuing the PC to lockup ?- Could i disable the onbaord sound in BIOS and throw in a Sound Card to test this possibilty ?
> 
> 2 other things would like to ask here
> 
> Whats the best way to do a fresh reinstall Windows 10 on a m.2 drive ?
> 
> I also get Nvidia Control Panel always coming up with regular messages to say G-sync monitor has connected - I would have thought that once its connected you dont have to be told again ?
> 
> Also I have 2 x Asus 27 inch monitors which are G- sync but cant seem to set both up to run at 144hz - Only seem to get 1 at 144hz and 2nd one at 60hz - Run them both of the ASUS GTX 980 Matrix card
> 
> Any help would be much appreciated
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> smrdel


I have the same exact issue with my screens turning black as my system freezes up. I do not have the same exact hardware but I can tell you I have had this issue for like 2 years now, through 3 different video cards, and even after I installed my NVME drive with a fresh install of windows (6 months ago?).
After all the hours upon hours of total troubleshooting I've done and the changing of hardware I am convinced this is an issue with the board in some way. 

One thing I have thought is it may be an issue with the board overheating in certain spots, but I get no indication whatsoever of anything like that. 

Like you, I am stumped on this.


----------



## smrdel

Madmaxneo said:


> I have the same exact issue with my screens turning black as my system freezes up. I do not have the same exact hardware but I can tell you I have had this issue for like 2 years now, through 3 different video cards, and even after I installed my NVME drive with a fresh install of windows (6 months ago?).
> After all the hours upon hours of total troubleshooting I've done and the changing of hardware I am convinced this is an issue with the board in some way.
> 
> One thing I have thought is it may be an issue with the board overheating in certain spots, but I get no indication whatsoever of anything like that.
> 
> Like you, I am stumped on this.


This has just been recent occurance for me.....

So have you tried Sound Card option and disabling onboard sound in bios ?

Is it possible to test a m.2 drive ?


----------



## Nocturnal

smrdel said:


> Hello All
> 
> Been a while since I set up my 512GB Samsung Pro m.2 drive as a boot drive on my board and since i received assistance here its been working fine.
> 
> In the last 2 weeks i have had a problem which has me stumped so will post here and see if i can get any feedback.
> 
> Basically my 2 monitors lose signal - get black screens then the PC locks up. Need to do a hard shutdown. The PC boots up normally everything runs fine till same thing happens again.
> 
> When i am gaming and using Team Speak Software I get speaker distortion prior to the Monitors losing signal - going black then PC locks up. Sometimes i get the screens blacking out then turning on again - mainly just the once but also a few times
> 
> I initially reinstalled Win 10 on the m.2 drive and fresh installed all the drivers. My initial thoughts was the GTX 980 I have maybe faulty so swapped it for the other one i have. ( I run 2 x in SLI) but same problem.
> 
> I thought it may be faulty GPU slot so took both cards out and installed one in Slot 2 only but same problem.
> 
> I dont think its a driver issue - and if it was I wouldnt know which one is causing the issue ? maybe a recent windows update that is causing conflict but wouldnt know which one it would be ?
> 
> Do i use the latest NVIDIA drivers or the last version on the ASUS site ? I wouldnt think this would matter ?.
> 
> I have 2 further options to try but would like feedback - Could the m.2 drive have issues with it and can you test the drive to find out anything ? Because of the sound distortions i get could the onboard Sound controller be casuing the PC to lockup ?- Could i disable the onbaord sound in BIOS and throw in a Sound Card to test this possibilty ?
> 
> 2 other things would like to ask here
> 
> Whats the best way to do a fresh reinstall Windows 10 on a m.2 drive ?
> 
> I also get Nvidia Control Panel always coming up with regular messages to say G-sync monitor has connected - I would have thought that once its connected you dont have to be told again ?
> 
> Also I have 2 x Asus 27 inch monitors which are G- sync but cant seem to set both up to run at 144hz - Only seem to get 1 at 144hz and 2nd one at 60hz - Run them both of the ASUS GTX 980 Matrix card
> 
> Any help would be much appreciated
> 
> Cheers
> 
> smrdel


Is there anything in the event viewer that indicates the nVidia driver is crashing? I had a similar problem where my screens would blank out and sometimes they'd come back if I gave it enough time. In Event Viewer it would say the nVidia driver has crashed but recovered. But I also found out one of my memory modules was failing. Once I replaced the memory module everything seems to be OK. But definitely check if there's anything in Event Viewer.


----------



## AkibaDeep

I actually have a simliary Issue. I've discovered that when I have all 8 DIMM slots filled and am using 64GB I need to reduce ram speed to 2133 (Settings to 2400Mhz, system will only boot at command Rate 2 and causes worse results in memory benchmark in Aida64). If I use half the DIMM slots and use 32GB Ram I am able to run my memory at its specified 2400MHz without any issues and at command rate 1. If you check my post history I've asked about this before.


----------



## smrdel

my screens just black out so dont see anything re:notification screen


----------



## airisom2

AkibaDeep said:


> I actually have a simliary Issue. I've discovered that when I have all 8 DIMM slots filled and am using 64GB I need to reduce ram speed to 2133 (Settings to 2400Mhz, system will only boot at command Rate 2 and causes worse results in memory benchmark in Aida64). If I use half the DIMM slots and use 32GB Ram I am able to run my memory at its specified 2400MHz without any issues and at command rate 1. If you check my post history I've asked about this before.


Having all 8 dimms populated puts a lot more strain on the cpu's memory controller than 4, especially when they're overclocked. That's why you're having to run cr2 at lower clocks. Here's what you can fool around with:

dram voltage (with 8 dimms, I'd be uncomfortable going beyond 1.65v) 
vccio (wouldn't go beyond 1.1v)
vtt (wouldn't go beyond 1.1v, try to keep vtt and vccio same voltage)
memory current capability (max out all channels)
timings (cr1/t1 is pretty hard to stabilize period, and it'll be easier to get t2 under control first, though you do lose some throughput in the process)



smrdel said:


> my screens just black out so dont see anything re:notification screen


try these:

remove any combo pcie cables (ie 8 + 6+2 on one cable), and run one cable for each port for your graphics card. 
run everything at stock clocks. run a stress test like realbench
monitor psu voltages in bios/multimeter. All voltages should be +/- 5% from standard, and you shouldn't see any rapid fluctuations
run an sfc /scannow since you've probably corrupted some files from the black screens. 
Install the latest nv drivers for your graphics card from nv website.


----------



## Madmaxneo

airisom2 said:


> try these:
> 
> remove any combo pcie cables (ie 8 + 6+2 on one cable), and run one cable for each port for your graphics card.
> run everything at stock clocks. run a stress test like realbench
> monitor psu voltages in bios/multimeter. All voltages should be +/- 5% from standard, and you shouldn't see any rapid fluctuations
> run an sfc /scannow since you've probably corrupted some files from the black screens.
> Install the latest nv drivers for your graphics card from nv website.


As I mentioned above I have the same exact issue. First thing to note is I can pass stress tests and benchmarks with no issues, unless I get unlucky enough to have my system do a random freeze. But in general it does well on stress tests and benchmarks, even when I have all my OC's up high. I have run my system for days at stock clocks and I still get the random freezes. Basically what I am saying is that it seems to make no difference on if I have any OC or not my system will still freeze up at completely random times. 

As far as the PCIE cables, your saying I should get new ones that don't have the combo like mine (6+2)? I say this because I don't even think my 1070 card will not run correctly without full power.
I've monitored PSU voltages in the system and I've tested them with a simple PSU tester but nothing seems to fluctuate. I do not have a multi-meter to check voltages.
I run sfc/scannow every so often and I have never found any issues. 
I have gone through time and again and installed the latest NV drivers directly from the Nvidia website. I have also uninstalled the old ones using DDU in safe mode then installed the fresh drivers, but it does not make any difference. Although when I first started doing this it seemed the random system freezes would happen less often, but that may have been my imagination.

About the only things I have not done in your suggestion is get different PCIE cables that aren't combo cables and I have not monitored my voltages using a multi-meter. 
Note that my black screens are completely random and at worse 3 or 4 times in one day and at best once in two weeks. It does not matter if I am playing a game, browsing the internet, or the PC is just sitting idle, the black screens still happen at completely random times.
Yesterday was one of my worse days. It froze twice earlier in the day then it froze twice while I was running Skype with various other programs up (running a tabletop gaming session with one person on Skype and all the others were here at my house), but then the last time I rebooted from the black screens it ran fine for the next 6 hours. Then like within 5 minutes of booting it up this morning my system froze and I had to restart..........


----------



## Madmaxneo

smrdel said:


> This has just been recent occurance for me.....
> 
> So have you tried Sound Card option and disabling onboard sound in bios ?
> 
> Is it possible to test a m.2 drive ?


It is not my m.2 drive because it was happening way before I went to NVME and installed the drive. I was kind of hoping doing this would fix the issue. The only thing it did was help alleviate the wait from freeze to being back up again due to how fast it boots now.

I haven't tried disabling the onboard sound card. I only have that enable so I can use my wireless headset with the optical out for 5.1 surround use. I use the optical out on my sound card for my z906 speakers. But I also have not used my headset in well over a year........


Is it possible that having both onboard sound and my sound card enabled could cause the black screens with a system freeze I am getting randomly? 

Wouldn't there be some kind of indication in event viewer?

EDIT: it is not the onboard sound. I disabled that then about an hour after that my system froze up and I got the black screens.


----------



## airisom2

If you have an eco mode or passive mode on your psu, disable it and see what happens. Got random black screen shutdowns with my p2 1200w in eco mode. Put it in normal mode, and they went away. If that's the case, you'll need to rma the unit. Its pretty common on the evga units for eco mode to cause intermittent shutdowns.


----------



## Madmaxneo

airisom2 said:


> If you have an eco mode or passive mode on your psu, disable it and see what happens. Got random black screen shutdowns with my p2 1200w in eco mode. Put it in normal mode, and they went away. If that's the case, you'll need to rma the unit. Its pretty common on the evga units for eco mode to cause intermittent shutdowns.


I have a G2 1000W SuperNOVA. I wonder if that could be the issue. 

How do I check what mode it is in, or for that matter if it has different modes?

EDIT: My psu does not have eco mode. I got it in 2015 which is apparently before they did the eco mode thing. But TBH it could be the PSU. I could submit an RMA on it but I am really unable to check it over long periods of time, nor do I have a decent PSU to temporarily replace this one. I do have an old 500 watt PSU but I am sure I need at the very least a 700 watt due to OCing, my GPU and all the peripherals I have connected. 
I am not even sure that old 500 watt psu has all the cables I need for my drives and other things.....


----------



## Laithan

There is one thing for sure, a flaky PSU can cause many problems... and can be especially tricky to troubleshoot when intermittent. _*If*_ you can return the PSU, head out to Best Buy or even Walmart, throw another PSU in your system and you have 30 days (verify this first) to test. If it doesn't fix the problem within 29 days return it and all you lost was some time and you've ruled one more thing out.


----------



## smrdel

Madmaxneo said:


> It is not my m.2 drive because it was happening way before I went to NVME and installed the drive. I was kind of hoping doing this would fix the issue. The only thing it did was help alleviate the wait from freeze to being back up again due to how fast it boots now.
> 
> I haven't tried disabling the onboard sound card. I only have that enable so I can use my wireless headset with the optical out for 5.1 surround use. I use the optical out on my sound card for my z906 speakers. But I also have not used my headset in well over a year........
> 
> 
> Is it possible that having both onboard sound and my sound card enabled could cause the black screens with a system freeze I am getting randomly?
> 
> Wouldn't there be some kind of indication in event viewer?
> 
> EDIT: it is not the onboard sound. I disabled that then about an hour after that my system froze up and I got the black screens.


Sorry was questioning someone else the question !

I have a Corsair AX1200i which is fairly new - not sure if it has a eco mode ? do you have to go into bios to check PSU settings ?

I did a scn no problems found and ran the Real Bench for a hour on 32GB Ram - I have 4 x 8GB RAM no problems found.

I have not overclocked anything so cant see the issue there. Last night it locked while playing a game on PC - its been quite warm here so thinking something is maybe overheating but would know what ?

I was asking if there is a way to test m.2 drives to see if no problems there ? Is there a utility or something you can try ?

I sometimes get distortions in speakers hence was asking if possible the on board sound maybe casuing the lockups due to faulty sound chips ?


----------



## airisom2

Just pull up crystaldiskinfo and read the smart info on your drive.

As far as the ax1200i's "eco mode," it's baked in with no switch to control it. You can monitor idle and load voltages with hwinfo's sensor page. If you see more than a 0.05v voltage fluctuation at any load and any voltage, and/or if one of your voltages goes outside the +/- 5% range, then it'd be a good time to start up the rma process. It's normal to get a weird sound on a hard shutdown, happened to me occasionally when I was troubleshooting my system. 

Liathan's advice is great too. I have a suspicion that both of your power supplies are on their way out, so if you can pick up a new one locally to test within the return period, that'd give you a lot of information.

One more thing you can try that I just remembered is to disable anti-surge in the bios. That option is very conservative and causes more problems than it resolves.


----------



## skupples

the sound card likes to click & pop on shutdown/reboot, you can hear it without being jacked in. It's completely normal for this board.


----------



## smrdel

airisom2 said:


> Just pull up crystaldiskinfo and read the smart info on your drive.
> 
> As far as the ax1200i's "eco mode," it's baked in with no switch to control it. You can monitor idle and load voltages with hwinfo's sensor page. If you see more than a 0.01v voltage fluctuation at any load and any voltage, and/or if one of your voltages goes outside the +/- 5% range, then it'd be a good time to start up the rma process. It's normal to get a weird sound on a hard shutdown, happened to me occasionally when I was troubleshooting my system.
> 
> Liathan's advice is great too. I have a suspicion that both of your power supplies are on their way out, so if you can pick up a new one locally to test within the return period, that'd give you a lot of information.
> 
> One more thing you can try that I just remembered is to disable anti-surge in the bios. That option is very conservative and causes more problems than it resolves.


With HWinfo program am i looking at the VIN voltages ? they dont seem to be fluctuating much if at all. When i go into the BIOS they seem to be fluctuating a bit more ? - Is it the voltages under the Voltage monitor section that are the ones i am looking at ? if so a few of them are fluctuating by more the 0.01 v for example the CPU voltage is fluctuating between +1.072 and +1.088 volts

Where is the disable anti surge in bios option ?

I left PC on overnight to seed some torrents - PC crashed overnight - 2nd time its done that - so i dont need to be doing anything for it to crash !


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> There is one thing for sure, a flaky PSU can cause many problems... and can be especially tricky to troubleshoot when intermittent. _*If*_ you can return the PSU, head out to Best Buy or even Walmart, throw another PSU in your system and you have 30 days (verify this first) to test. If it doesn't fix the problem within 29 days return it and all you lost was some time and you've ruled one more thing out.


I may do that, I can also go through Amazon, which is what I may have to do cause the prices may be a bit much for me.



airisom2 said:


> One more thing you can try that I just remembered is to disable anti-surge in the bios. That option is very conservative and causes more problems than it resolves.


Oh, I never knew about this one. I will check and see if that is still active in my bios.


----------



## Laithan

airisom2 said:


> One more thing you can try that I just remembered is to disable anti-surge in the bios. That option is very conservative and causes more problems than it resolves.


Thanks for this, I just disabled it. The 8 core is fussy.. maybe this will help :thumb:


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> Thanks for this, I just disabled it. The 8 core is fussy.. maybe this will help :thumb:


I disabled mine also. I really really hope this helps!


----------



## smrdel

Madmaxneo said:


> I disabled mine also. I really really hope this helps!


Where in the BIOS is this option ? I cant find it !


----------



## Laithan

smrdel said:


> Where in the BIOS is this option ? I cant find it !


You looked really hard? :thinking:


----------



## smrdel

Laithan said:


> You looked really hard? :thinking:


Obviously not hard enough ! - thanks for that


----------



## airisom2

smrdel said:


> With HWinfo program am i looking at the VIN voltages ? they dont seem to be fluctuating much if at all. When i go into the BIOS they seem to be fluctuating a bit more ? - Is it the voltages under the Voltage monitor section that are the ones i am looking at ? if so a few of them are fluctuating by more the 0.01 v for example the CPU voltage is fluctuating between +1.072 and +1.088 volts
> 
> Where is the disable anti surge in bios option ?
> 
> I left PC on overnight to seed some torrents - PC crashed overnight - 2nd time its done that - so i dont need to be doing anything for it to crash !


Monitor these:


----------



## skupples

the board also has direct contact points for DMM in the north east corner. (don't remember what all it covers, cpu, chipset, etc.)


----------



## smrdel

airisom2 said:


> Monitor these:


left PC on again last nite to seed torrents and again it locked up overnight - that was after disabling power surge thingy

On my HWINFO READOUT The 3.3V and 5V are more then 0.01 v fluctuations - does that mean PSU is on its way out ?


----------



## airisom2

Yup. Your 12v is fluctuating 0.1v, and you got 0.016v on your 3.3v which is alright. The 12v rail is pretty important, and you're waaaay out there on the fluctuations. Time to start up an rma. Just send them that pic, and you shouldn't have to go back and forth with them too much. 

Just so we're clear, we have voltage +/- tolerances (as per ATX spec), and then we have voltage fluctuations. So for example, we can have the 12v rail sit between 11.4-12.6v (5%), and as long as it delivers that voltage consistently with fluctuations within 0.05v that aren't rapid fluctuations, then we're good. So, you can have a 12v reading 12.04v and still be bad if you are seeing it flickering between something like 12.00v and 12.04v rapidly. The VRMs and supporting components should be doing a better job at holding those voltages.

Edit, I saw I typed in 0.01v fluctuations previously. I meant 0.05v. EVGA says 0.05v and no excuses for rapid fluctuations. Other companies like Corsair or Seasonic may be different, but hey, all of these units are made up of the same components, just a different assortment. I don't see why that 0.05v rule wouldn't apply to others since voltage swings are a pretty good indicator of the proverbial pimple getting ready to pop, especially if you're already getting intermittent crashes. 

One thing I noticed when I got this seasonic unit in is that my overclock is more stable too. Whenever I put a load on the old p2 1200, I would get hangs for a couple seconds until it caught up. I don't get those anymore now, so that goes to show you a good power supply can help with overclocks as well.


----------



## Laithan

I was curious so I checked mine. After a while I see similar fluctuations on 12V but I am not having any issues here.
(Corsair AX1500i) I know this PSU has sensors for direct reads but to me it was bloat..

Possibly something with these boards?


----------



## airisom2

You could be right. I did a longer stress test this time, and I saw a 0.1v bump on 12v as well, but when my system is idling, the voltages don't change at all.

Edit: looks to be a one time deal, though. I'm running realbench right now, and my 12v has been stuck on 12.288v. 3.3v is fluctuating 0.016v every once in a while, nothing rapid.


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## Madmaxneo

airisom2 said:


> Yup. Your 12v is fluctuating 0.1v, and you got 0.016v on your 3.3v which is alright. The 12v rail is pretty important, and you're waaaay out there on the fluctuations. Time to start up an rma. Just send them that pic, and you shouldn't have to go back and forth with them too much.
> 
> Just so we're clear, we have voltage +/- tolerances (as per ATX spec), and then we have voltage fluctuations. So for example, we can have the 12v rail sit between 11.4-12.6v (5%), and as long as it delivers that voltage consistently with fluctuations within 0.05v that aren't rapid fluctuations, then we're good. So, you can have a 12v reading 12.04v and still be bad if you are seeing it flickering between something like 12.00v and 12.04v rapidly. The VRMs and supporting components should be doing a better job at holding those voltages.
> 
> Edit, I saw I typed in 0.01v fluctuations previously. I meant 0.05v. EVGA says 0.05v and no excuses for rapid fluctuations. Other companies like Corsair or Seasonic may be different, but hey, all of these units are made up of the same components, just a different assortment. I don't see why that 0.05v rule wouldn't apply to others since voltage swings are a pretty good indicator of the proverbial pimple getting ready to pop, especially if you're already getting intermittent crashes.
> 
> One thing I noticed when I got this seasonic unit in is that my overclock is more stable too. Whenever I put a load on the old p2 1200, I would get hangs for a couple seconds until it caught up. I don't get those anymore now, so that goes to show you a good power supply can help with overclocks as well.





Laithan said:


> I was curious so I checked mine. After a while I see similar fluctuations on 12V but I am not having any issues here.
> (Corsair AX1500i) I know this PSU has sensors for direct reads but to me it was bloat..
> 
> Possibly something with these boards?


So fluctuations are not bad at that amount? 
Attached is the image of the HWiNFO and it looks fine except for the 12v rail and minor fluctuations in a few other areas.... How does it look?


I was going to write in that so far so good and my system was not freezing up but then my system froze, but this time no black screens. Everything froze and just sat there. I waited for the black screens but they never came so I hit the reset button, nothing happened. I hit the reset button again, and still nothing. I hit it a few times and finally my system rebooted... That's not normal and not something I encountered before switching off the surge protection in the BIOS.

EDIT: added my other voltage readings and some fluctuate more than a little.


----------



## smrdel

Looks like there is a few RMA requests coming up !

I may send a support ticket to Corsair and see what they say..........

I get random lockups while playing games and even if i am seeding torrents overnight - I wake up and turn monitor on and I get no picture - that happened 2 nites in a row.

It happens when i am gaming - lose signal on screen and PC locks up.

One night i heard the notfications sound go off most likely the g-sync notification which always seems to go off - which i dont understand why it goes off/on all the time - surely once the monitor is connected its connected. Its like cable connecting the GPU and PC is dodgy ?

I will see what Corsair says re: voltage fluctuations


----------



## Madmaxneo

I did some research on my issue. I searched for "PC freezes up with HWiNFO" because I realized this new freeze my PC does is usually after I start HWiNFO. I was led to a post in the HWiNFO forum and apparently others have had this same issue and it is associated with the Asmedia drivers for the hard drives. Someone mentioned reverting your driver to Microsoft provided sata driver (msahci) and everything will run better in HWiNFO, plus they said there was no performance drop in using the Microsoft provided sata driver. They also had an issue where the drives attached through the Asmedia sata ports disappearing but I never checked for that. Another way around this is to disable "drive scan" in HWiNFO.


----------



## skupples

You're definitely correct that the ASMEDIA aspects of the board left much to desire. I never even used the ports or the drivers. I added a raid card instead.
I hope that fixes your issue!


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> You're definitely correct that the ASMEDIA aspects of the board left much to desire. I never even used the ports or the drivers. I added a raid card instead.
> I hope that fixes your issue!


Well, I thought my old system freezes with the black screens were actually gone with disabling the anti surge in the bios, but I just had one a few minutes ago. This is just annoying. I need to save some money and get me a new board/cpu/RAM combo cause I want to go with DDR4 this time......


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah you maybe saving awhile they say prices are dropping but that's a bull face lie. Unless your in USA then you may get a decent price. 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> So fluctuations are not bad at that amount?
> Attached is the image of the HWiNFO and it looks fine except for the 12v rail and minor fluctuations in a few other areas.... How does it look?
> 
> 
> I was going to write in that so far so good and my system was not freezing up but then my system froze, but this time no black screens. Everything froze and just sat there. I waited for the black screens but they never came so I hit the reset button, nothing happened. I hit the reset button again, and still nothing. I hit it a few times and finally my system rebooted... That's not normal and not something I encountered before switching off the surge protection in the BIOS.
> 
> EDIT: added my other voltage readings and some fluctuate more than a little.



It seems to me that either HWINFO is flaky on these boards or the fluctuation is accurate and considered "normal" for this board since we pretty much all seem to have the same.





Madmaxneo said:


> I did some research on my issue. I searched for "PC freezes up with HWiNFO" because I realized this new freeze my PC does is usually after I start HWiNFO. I was led to a post in the HWiNFO forum and apparently others have had this same issue and it is associated with the Asmedia drivers for the hard drives. Someone mentioned reverting your driver to Microsoft provided sata driver (msahci) and everything will run better in HWiNFO, plus they said there was no performance drop in using the Microsoft provided sata driver. They also had an issue where the drives attached through the Asmedia sata ports disappearing but I never checked for that. Another way around this is to disable "drive scan" in HWiNFO.



Hmmm I wonder if that controller is your culprit... The 4 ports at the very top are 3G and built into the X79 chipset and all the others below are 6G (so you're likely using the ASMEDIA controller). It can't hurt to move your drive(s) to the 3G ports just for a test...


----------



## skupples

Madmaxneo said:


> Well, I thought my old system freezes with the black screens were actually gone with disabling the anti surge in the bios, but I just had one a few minutes ago. This is just annoying. I need to save some money and get me a new board/cpu/RAM combo cause I want to go with DDR4 this time......


what are your memory clocks? Are you at all stock clocks still when this is happening?

I could never get memory OC & chip OC to really get along on this board. If you wanted a high core, you needed lower memory. If I remember correctly, I couldn't get over 1886 stable above 4.3ghz on my 3930k, it was slightly better on 4930k, 2133.

but yeah, i would try to completely phase out the asmedia controllers & drivers. Switch your primary drives over to just the intel ones (As I believe we previously discussed) & flush out the drivers. Then make sure you're starting from a 100% bone stock bios. Switch to BIOS#2 if need be, or do a revert on the original bios to get everything back to 100% bone stock. 

then start over.


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> what are your memory clocks? Are you at all stock clocks still when this is happening?
> 
> I could never get memory OC & chip OC to really get along on this board. If you wanted a high core, you needed lower memory. If I remember correctly, I couldn't get over 1886 stable above 4.3ghz on my 3930k, it was slightly better on 4930k, 2133.
> 
> but yeah, i would try to completely phase out the asmedia controllers & drivers. Switch your primary drives over to just the intel ones (As I believe we previously discussed) & flush out the drivers. Then make sure you're starting from a 100% bone stock bios. Switch to BIOS#2 if need be, or do a revert on the original bios to get everything back to 100% bone stock.
> 
> then start over.


It doesn't matter. When I get these freezes I could be at stock clocks, my highest OC, system idle, gaming, or just browsing the internet. Nothing I have done seems to affect these black screens and system freeze. This is through three different video cards, various ways of testing (one strip of RAM all the way up to my total 4), NFC/scannow, fresh windows installs, many upgrades, BIOS updates, and so on. 
I have no indication whatsoever on what could be causing the issue. Nothing in event viewer or the reliability monitor, nothing noticeable in voltage monitoring.........

I am going to try removing the Asmedia drivers this weekend. But I have no other indications that they could be causing the issue. But I did have a recent issue with my games drive not showing up sometimes at boot... I fixed that by switching to a different Sata port...hmmmm. Although my C drive is in an NVME drive connected through the PCIe port. I did the NVME drive thing in hopes of getting rid of the system freezes, but it didn't help at all.

Do the Asmedia drivers affect the way my NVME works??


----------



## airisom2

You can also disable the asmedia chipset in the bios. If you're running nvme from pcie, then asmedia will do nothing since the only things the asmedia controllers control are sata3 and usb3. The pci controller is on your processor. The pch does the i/o on the board sans the wifi/bt, usb3.0, and audio. 

I guess something else you can look at are the caps on the motherboard. If they're starting to peak, then they should be replaced. You also have the mosfets which can go out, but they're cooled pretty well with the heatsink and a sb-e/ib-e 6 core won't really do much to them unless you're shooting some serious volts through it. So, just inspect the board for any peaked caps or weird smells. 

Other than that, it looks like everything else checks out, but I'd still pick up a power supply and see if that does the trick. Monitoring software can only show you so much, not to mention that it's not really precise nor accurate due to the large steppings (ever wonder why you always see 1.296, 1.304, 1.328, 1.344v etc.? Hexidecimal base 16.), slow refresh times, and the fact that it's getting it's measurements through a sensor on a motherboard rather than directly from the power supply. However, that's all we got, and it will at least give you something.

You won't get ripple measurements, mosfet temperatures, capacitor and resistor degradation, transient load response, etc. without using expensive lab equipment and taking the sucker apart. Lots of things can cause a psu to act flaky.


----------



## Madmaxneo

airisom2 said:


> You can also disable the asmedia chipset in the bios. If you're running nvme from pcie, then asmedia will do nothing since the only things the asmedia controllers control are sata3 and usb3. The pci controller is on your processor. The pch does the i/o on the board sans the wifi/bt, usb3.0, and audio.
> 
> I guess something else you can look at are the caps on the motherboard. If they're starting to peak, then they should be replaced. You also have the mosfets which can go out, but they're cooled pretty well with the heatsink and a sb-e/ib-e 6 core won't really do much to them unless you're shooting some serious volts through it. So, just inspect the board for any peaked caps or weird smells.
> 
> Other than that, it looks like everything else checks out, but I'd still pick up a power supply and see if that does the trick. Monitoring software can only show you so much, not to mention that it's not really precise nor accurate due to the large steppings (ever wonder why you always see 1.296, 1.304, 1.328, 1.344v etc.? Hexidecimal base 16.), slow refresh times, and the fact that it's getting it's measurements through a sensor on a motherboard rather than directly from the power supply. However, that's all we got, and it will at least give you something.
> 
> You won't get ripple measurements, mosfet temperatures, capacitor and resistor degradation, transient load response, etc. without using expensive lab equipment and taking the sucker apart. Lots of things can cause a psu to act flaky.


Thanks, I will look at the caps when I get the chance. But this same thing has been happening for about two years. If it was the capacitors I'd think they would've blown by now.... The only things that are the same after all this time is the MB, the PSU, and the RAM. If it is the RAM or the MB then I might as well just stick it out until I can get a new MB/RAM/CPU combo (whenever that will be). If I purchase a new PSU I can at least use that for the next one...

If I were to get a new PSU, it would need to be inexpensive as in way less than what a new 1000W G2 SuperNOVA would run me right now. Plus I would need enough modular cables to power everything I use on this board......I might be able to go with a lower end PSU like maybe 850 watts but I am not exactly sure how much power I am even using now...lol. 

Suggestions for a new PSU with the requirements above would be awesome!


----------



## Laithan

IMO, go big.. 1200W minimum platinum rating. You never know what kind of power hungry components you might find yourself with. I like to go "all out" when it comes to the power supply as it is never the component to compromise. You want to remain in the optimal efficiency range (around 80%) even when at max load. I personally have a Corsair AX1500i... overkill some say but a Platinum rated quality PSU for peace of mind and built to last. No regrets here. I was able to pull over 450W with a modified 980Ti under extreme conditions (two of them in SLI currently.. 900W max potential). Leaves 600W for the CPU and remaining components. It depends on your hardware and my needs are not typical either of course but it's better to have more power/quality than less should it be needed.


----------



## smrdel

I have another Power Supply that i can try but a pain to do the swap over - will try this and see if i get same issue.

Is there anyway to test RAM to maybe see if the sticks maybe causing the random PC lockups

I have 4 sticks of 8GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400 RAM - I have not tweaked these at all.

I got a response from Corsaire re: voltage fluctuations and the person responded by saying whats the issue after I expressed that exact problems i was having !


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> IMO, go big.. 1200W minimum platinum rating. You never know what kind of power hungry components you might find yourself with. I like to go "all out" when it comes to the power supply as it is never the component to compromise. You want to remain in the optimal efficiency range (around 80%) even when at max load. I personally have a Corsair AX1500i... overkill some say but a Platinum rated quality PSU for peace of mind and built to last. No regrets here. I was able to pull over 450W with a modified 980Ti under extreme conditions (two of them in SLI currently.. 900W max potential). Leaves 600W for the CPU and remaining components. It depends on your hardware and my needs are not typical either of course but it's better to have more power/quality than less should it be needed.


Are the Rosewill PSUs any good? They have a 1200 watt for $114 on Amazon.


----------



## Shadowarez

I am looking to update my PSU I have a Evga 1500 watt Super Nova from end days of x79. 

I seen the 1600watt T2s at great prices but it has like 12 pcie 8pin are those just mining psu's? I currently have a i9 7980xe, apex x299 64gb DDR 4 1 nvme and a Vega Fe card.

I plan on redoing my m.2 storage soon 3 wd 1tb black and a Optane. But that PSU with that many vga ports seems pointless.

I hmcan get a season prime 1200 watt titanium for roughly same price but will that be enough power for a oced CPU and Gpu?









Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> Are the Rosewill PSUs any good? They have a 1200 watt for $114 on Amazon.


They are hit and miss as they are essentially just re-labels... I would stay away from them TBH. I had one burn up on me a while back. Rosewill is good to save a buck on some things like an external USB case or something but for vital components I wouldn't recommend them. YMMV





smrdel said:


> I have another Power Supply that i can try but a pain to do the swap over - will try this and see if i get same issue.
> 
> Is there anyway to test RAM to maybe see if the sticks maybe causing the random PC lockups
> 
> I have 4 sticks of 8GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400 RAM - I have not tweaked these at all.
> 
> I got a response from Corsaire re: voltage fluctuations and the person responded by saying whats the issue after I expressed that exact problems i was having !



https://www.memtest86.com/


----------



## Madmaxneo

I switched the asmedia drivers to the stock intel drivers and right after boot my screens went black and I had to reset. I thought that was maybe a fluke but it happened again about 6 hours later. So it is not the asmedia drivers.

My last two options are the PSU and the RAM and it looks like it is going to be awhile before I can get a decent PSU.


----------



## smrdel

https://www.memtest86.com/[/quote]

I have run the memtest86 test and 0 problems.......need to try a different PSU !

Is it possible for a m.2 drive to fail ? anyway to test a m.2 drive ?


----------



## smrdel

smrdel said:


> https://www.memtest86.com/


I have run the memtest86 test and 0 problems.......need to try a different PSU !

Is it possible for a m.2 drive to fail ? anyway to test a m.2 drive ?[/QUOTE]

My Support Ticket from Corsair mentions trying a different cable from power supply to GPU as well as different connection into the PSU


----------



## smrdel

No random lockups since changed GPU cable - so far so good


----------



## Madmaxneo

smrdel said:


> No random lockups since changed GPU cable - so far so good


No random lockups in like 3 or 4 days, a whole day after I changed the Asmedia drivers.... 
I may just go ahead and change the GPU cable also just in case.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Update: I had a random lockup just a few minutes ago. It made it all week without freezing which is not really new. I have made it a week and a half before without a random freeze instantly followed by the black screens. 

Today's mail should have an IO board in it. It is for this Asus zenbook I got for $30 because it didn't work. I took it apart and cleaned it and got it working, but the IO cable is bad causing it to shut everything off every so often plus some things connected to the IO board don't work properly. If this fixes the laptop enough so it corrects most of the other issues I will go ahead and do the RMA for my PSU.


----------



## Laithan

smrdel said:


> No random lockups since changed GPU cable - so far so good


Good news, that's a needle in the haystack right there.. hope that's really it. 





Madmaxneo said:


> Update: I had a random lockup just a few minutes ago. It made it all week without freezing which is not really new. I have made it a week and a half before without a random freeze instantly followed by the black screens.


Would I be correct in saying that you used to get "Black screens" AND "random lockups"?

Would I also be correct in saying that you no longer get the "Black screens" and now only the random lockups?

It could be possible that there are two independent issues here and wondering if you may have addressed one of them already... 



_*This may NOT be related BUT*_: IMO it seems to have something to do with static electricity issues. I get lockups also occasionally when it "seems" my O/C isn't stable... even when the settings are "known stable". The strange thing is that the O/C could be stable for days/weeks and then all of a sudden for whatever reason it isn't anymore.. Shutting down/rebooting doesn't always help as it will start to lock up when loading the desktop. I learned that there is a "trick" to "fixing" it when this happens, I discovered sort of by accident... If I just reboot/reset or even shut down the system it doesn't always help however if I literally shut down then UNPLUG the power supply from the wall, press the power button on the PC (to in theory discharge any capacitors but could be placebo) plug it back in and start up the PC, I get a "overclock has failed message", I ignore it and then just reboot the system where it re-loads my O/C settings and then it is fine again for weeks. If I do this when I lock up, 100% of the time the next boot works just fine with the exact same O/C settings. 

This time of year the static is everywhere being so dry and I have a habit of touching the case (mine is metal) to discharge any static before I touch any of the components inside. I get the "zap" when I touch the case... or sometimes when plugging in a USB drive... and if the PC was running that "zap" will usually lead to instability/locks.. it may take a few minutes or be instant but I find that in almost all cases I need to shut down, unplug from the wall, discharge and start over to return things to normal. I can't explain why unplugging/plugging clear this static issue (maybe someone else can) but this has happened to me so many times now it isn't a fluke and the "fix" is consistent for me. This only started this winter when it became super dry here. 

FWIW


----------



## smrdel

Damn it - Random lockup after changing GPU cable so thats not it !

Going to go through the painfull process of swapping PSU with another one I have in another PC.

If problem still exists then i am starting to feel its something on the board ? another thing i have noticed that plugging in USB devices into back of M/B locks the PC up sometimes ????


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> Would I be correct in saying that you used to get "Black screens" AND "random lockups"?
> 
> Would I also be correct in saying that you no longer get the "Black screens" and now only the random lockups?
> 
> It could be possible that there are two independent issues here and wondering if you may have addressed one of them already...
> 
> 
> 
> _*This may NOT be related BUT*_: IMO it seems to have something to do with static electricity issues. I get lockups also occasionally when it "seems" my O/C isn't stable... even when the settings are "known stable". The strange thing is that the O/C could be stable for days/weeks and then all of a sudden for whatever reason it isn't anymore.. Shutting down/rebooting doesn't always help as it will start to lock up when loading the desktop. I learned that there is a "trick" to "fixing" it when this happens, I discovered sort of by accident... If I just reboot/reset or even shut down the system it doesn't always help however if I literally shut down then UNPLUG the power supply from the wall, press the power button on the PC (to in theory discharge any capacitors but could be placebo) plug it back in and start up the PC, I get a "overclock has failed message", I ignore it and then just reboot the system where it re-loads my O/C settings and then it is fine again for weeks. If I do this when I lock up, 100% of the time the next boot works just fine with the exact same O/C settings.
> 
> This time of year the static is everywhere being so dry and I have a habit of touching the case (mine is metal) to discharge any static before I touch any of the components inside. I get the "zap" when I touch the case... or sometimes when plugging in a USB drive... and if the PC was running that "zap" will usually lead to instability/locks.. it may take a few minutes or be instant but I find that in almost all cases I need to shut down, unplug from the wall, discharge and start over to return things to normal. I can't explain why unplugging/plugging clear this static issue (maybe someone else can) but this has happened to me so many times now it isn't a fluke and the "fix" is consistent for me. This only started this winter when it became super dry here.
> 
> FWIW


I'm still getting the lock up followed by the black screens. The black screens happen because the system locks up. The interesting thing is that event viewer still records the nvidia error if I am not there when it locks up and sits for awhile. The error is an "nvidia driver has stopped responding and has restarted", and it shows in event viewer like ever few seconds so if it sits for a few hours there are hundreds of those errors. So the system is running but everything is frozen. 
Note that if I am at my computer when it happens first things start acting weird then everything on the screens freeze including anything video wise, the program showing fan speeds and temps, and the mouse. The backlighting on the keyboard also stops responding. I reset the system and boot it back up, but there is nothing in event viewer except for the alert that the system was restarted without completely shutting down first. 

Also it is not static. I thought the same exact thing like 2 years ago when it first started happening. But it has been happening for about 2 years going through all the seasons from the cold and static laden weather to the higher humidity non static laden weather. 


smrdel said:


> Damn it - Random lockup after changing GPU cable so thats not it !
> 
> Going to go through the painfull process of swapping PSU with another one I have in another PC.
> 
> If problem still exists then i am starting to feel its something on the board ? another thing i have noticed that plugging in USB devices into back of M/B locks the PC up sometimes ????


 I once though I was also getting the lockups whenever I would jar my desk enough for things on top to rattle because it seemed to happen twice, but those times must've been by chance because I am unable to reproduce the effect.
If you get these lockups when you jar your system or some other means and you can recreate the lockups when you do those things then you have a different problem than I do. But I have also thought it is an issue on the board.


----------



## smrdel

The other Power Supply makes no difference - same issue. PC locks up - screen goes black. I have tried pretty much everything and start to think something on the board is causing the issue now.

Sometimes i get random video drops - I get the gsync notification that keeps popping up

What is the event viewer you referring too - does that show what causes crash ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

smrdel said:


> The other Power Supply makes no difference - same issue. PC locks up - screen goes black. I have tried pretty much everything and start to think something on the board is causing the issue now.
> 
> Sometimes i get random video drops - I get the gsync notification that keeps popping up
> 
> What is the event viewer you referring too - does that show what causes crash ?


event viewer will show any errors that your system sees. Ask Cortana to open it for you or just type "event viewer" in the search bar. When it opens click on custom view. You'll probably have a lot of errors but nothing to really worry about.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I've been thinking. 

Once I changed the Sata Asmedia drivers to the base Intel ones the freezes/lock ups seem to occur a lot less often. 

So maybe doing the same with the Asmedia USB drivers will stop the random system freezes/lockups all together. I orignially figured that the USB drivers have nothing to do with how the system runs, but then again neither do any of the Asmedia Sata ports. 

I will report back if I have any freezes/lock ups during the week.


I may be looking to upgrade my system. But I don't have a lot of funds for an upgrade and I need something that will have most of the functionality my RIVBE does.....any suggestions for a MB?


----------



## dboythagr8

After having my RIVBE since 2014, I've finally made the move to a new board. Got a Maximus XI Extreme and 9900k earlier this week, with 3600 RAM. I enjoyed my time with the Rampage, but I was feeling the itch to make a move. Hope you guys continue to enjoy yours !


----------



## smrdel

Madmaxneo said:


> I've been thinking.
> 
> Once I changed the Sata Asmedia drivers to the base Intel ones the freezes/lock ups seem to occur a lot less often.
> 
> So maybe doing the same with the Asmedia USB drivers will stop the random system freezes/lockups all together. I orignially figured that the USB drivers have nothing to do with how the system runs, but then again neither do any of the Asmedia Sata ports.
> 
> I will report back if I have any freezes/lock ups during the week.
> 
> 
> I may be looking to upgrade my system. But I don't have a lot of funds for an upgrade and I need something that will have most of the functionality my RIVBE does.....any suggestions for a MB?



I have not played around with sata drivers as I have not had any issues with my sata drives and i have my m.2 boot drive running off a PCI -e adaptor which if i read correctly aint affected by these drivers ?

the Asmedia USB drivers maybe causing issues where if i plug a USB device into the rear the PC locks up or doesnt recognise the USB device.

I too dont have money for a upgrade atm but if its the motherboard is on its way out then it may force my hand......

I was looking at 2 ASUS boards the ASUS ROG Maximus XI Extreme Motherboard or the Threadripper ASUS ROG Zenith Extreme - with say with i7 9700k and 1920x threadripper. Both costly but sexy looking.

The latest ASUS Rampage V v10 any good ?


----------



## smrdel

dboythagr8 said:


> After having my RIVBE since 2014, I've finally made the move to a new board. Got a Maximus XI Extreme and 9900k earlier this week, with 3600 RAM. I enjoyed my time with the Rampage, but I was feeling the itch to make a move. Hope you guys continue to enjoy yours !


lolz - didnt see this as it was posted exact time as my post........ but was looking at that board in my initial research - am looking at the Asus ROG Zenith Extreme Alpha as well - been Intel for a LONG time now but wondering about threadripper CPU's ?

2 more things i may try for the hell of it - disabling onboard sound in BIOS and maybe install Win 10 on normal SSD just to confirm its not the onboard sound and a fault in the m.2 drive and PCI - E adaptor card


----------



## smrdel

another motherboard contended is the ROG-RAMPAGE-VI-EXTREME-OMEGA

but ouch that price !


----------



## skupples

Gorgeous  

I'm quite looking forward to blowing my first few paychecks @ this new gig on another dream machine. It's about time. This 9700k & 1080ti is one of the most disappointing upgrades I've ever made. 

NVLink titans, x299, etc


----------



## smrdel

Questions

i have run the memtest to check my memory which it passed but was wondering if the memory slots maybe still faulty ? the test doesnt test the memeory slots only the RAM itself ?

I was thinking of swapping the 4 sticks into the other RAM slots just to eliminate the RAM slots as whats causing my random lockups - I think i have them in the recommended slots in the Manual. 

Another thing I wanted to try was perhaps taking out the m.2 drive and silverstone PCIE adaptor card and reinstalling windows 10 on a normal SSD just to eliminate this side of things.

If i cant find this bug (which i am starting to think its the motherboard) looking at new board/cpu - was considering the ASUS ROG Maximus XI Extreme with i7 8700k and a ASUS Strix 2070. I have 32GB Corsair DDR4 RAM from another PC already and was going to reuse my SSD and m.2 drive and CPU cooler and case

any thoughts on this combination ? - I manly game and do some video editing. Currently I have the RAMPAGE IV Black edition 32GB Corsair DDR3, i7 4930k CPU and GTX 980 graphics card


----------



## smrdel

smrdel said:


> Questions
> 
> i have run the memtest to check my memory which it passed but was wondering if the memory slots maybe still faulty ? the test doesnt test the memeory slots only the RAM itself ?
> 
> I was thinking of swapping the 4 sticks into the other RAM slots just to eliminate the RAM slots as whats causing my random lockups - I think i have them in the recommended slots in the Manual.
> 
> Another thing I wanted to try was perhaps taking out the m.2 drive and silverstone PCIE adaptor card and reinstalling windows 10 on a normal SSD just to eliminate this side of things.
> 
> If i cant find this bug (which i am starting to think its the motherboard) looking at new board/cpu - was considering the ASUS ROG Maximus XI Extreme with i7 8700k and a ASUS Strix 2070. I have 32GB Corsair DDR4 RAM from another PC already and was going to reuse my SSD and m.2 drive and CPU cooler and case
> 
> any thoughts on this combination ? - I manly game and do some video editing. Currently I have the RAMPAGE IV Black edition 32GB Corsair DDR3, i7 4930k CPU and GTX 980 graphics card


It looks like swapping the 4 x 8GB RAM chips i have into the black colored slots wont work - may have to individually test them by starting with 1 RAM chip then adding or replacing it and see if problem persists

Down to 8GB RAM and things seem to be a bit quicker............


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Madmaxneo said:


> Are the Rosewill PSUs any good? They have a 1200 watt for $114 on Amazon.


I've had my Rosewill Lightning 1200w PSU since 2014, and I've had nothing but problems. Sure the multi-colored modular unit looks good, but despite it's great review by some websites, it's not all that reliable. I've almost fried my motherboard a few times, because of the multiple restarts it's done. I actually did fry two external mechanical drives because of that problem, which had all of my kid's baby pictures. Call it laziness, but it would be more of a pain in the ass to remove it than to just leave it in and deal with the daily reposting. One thing I can tell you is that I'll NEVER get another Rosewill again. Once I start my new build soon, I'll finally swap it out for something more reliable.


----------



## Laithan

ProfeZZor X said:


> I've had my Rosewill Lightning 1200w PSU since 2014, and I've had nothing but problems. Sure the multi-colored modular unit looks good, but despite it's great review by some websites, it's not all that reliable. I've almost fried my motherboard a few times, because of the multiple restarts it's done. I actually did fry two external mechanical drives because of that problem, which had all of my kid's baby pictures. Call it laziness, but it would be more of a pain in the ass to remove it than to just leave it in and deal with the daily reposting. One thing I can tell you is that I'll NEVER get another Rosewill again. Once I start my new build soon, I'll finally swap it out for something more reliable.


The one and only Rosewill PSU I bought blew up on me... less than a year of use. Rosewill is earning a pretty bad reputation...



Spoiler


----------



## Rangerscott

Anybody wanna help me OC my 4930k?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Rangerscott said:


> Anybody wanna help me OC my 4930k?


Here is probably one of the best guides I've seen so far online that explains all the settings and what may be best for OCing. I say "what may be" because not all CPUs are created equal. 
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?5835-ASUS-Rampage-IV-Extreme-UEFI-Guide-for-Overclocking
In that guide there two essential settings that most definitely need to change for OCing, make sure you disable both the PCIe and CPU Spread Spectrum settings. 
Read through all the stuff in there and come back with questions and I can help a little (others could probably help more). But it really comes down to trial and error in finding the best settings for your system.


----------



## Rangerscott

Thanks. So far good at 4.2ghz.


----------



## Madmaxneo

smrdel said:


> It looks like swapping the 4 x 8GB RAM chips i have into the black colored slots wont work - may have to individually test them by starting with 1 RAM chip then adding or replacing it and see if problem persists
> 
> Down to 8GB RAM and things seem to be a bit quicker............


Did you have any progress in eliminating the system freezes?


----------



## Mathias

smrdel said:


> Hello All
> 
> Been a while since I set up my 512GB Samsung Pro m.2 drive as a boot drive on my board and since i received assistance here its been working fine.
> 
> In the last 2 weeks i have had a problem which has me stumped so will post here and see if i can get any feedback.
> 
> Basically my 2 monitors lose signal - get black screens then the PC locks up. Need to do a hard shutdown. The PC boots up normally everything runs fine till same thing happens again.
> 
> When i am gaming and using Team Speak Software I get speaker distortion prior to the Monitors losing signal - going black then PC locks up. Sometimes i get the screens blacking out then turning on again - mainly just the once but also a few times
> 
> Cheers
> 
> smrdel


Hi there,
I was facing the same issue for some times here after updating bios and OS (win10 with the last cpu microcode).

After a lot of searching it seems like is an issue of some Asus board with nvidia driver and corsair link if used together.
After update my geforce driver and close corsair link definitely now it seems like everything is working fine.

Hope this can help.


----------



## Mathias

Hello everyone,
as someone in this 3d already did, I also try the Xeon E5-1680 v2 cpu as last chance to extend the life of my RIVBE (since I alredy have 64Gb of ram and a 950 nvme over pciex adaptor).

So, for me, thinking in the prospective of a five-years-old system and a six-generation-old cpu, the results are quite impressive.
I bought my cpu on ebay for around $300 (used, obviously), and I think it's still a bestbuy for this price.

Mine maybe is not one of the luckier, but it can do:
4.2ghz 1.15v vcore, 1.0v VTT, 1.0v VCCSA
4.3ghz 1.2v vcore, 1.0v VTT, 1.0v VCCSA
4.4ghz 1.27v vcore, 1.0v VTT, 1.05v VCCSA
4.5ghz 1.35v vcore, 1.0v VTT, 1.075v VCCSA

paired with 8x8gb @ 2186Mhz 9-10-10-31 CR2 @ 1.62v DDR3

I think it can reach also 4.6ghz but with a too high voltage for a daily use (with my corsair H110).
Moreover, with only 4 bank of ram populated (8x4), the IMC is even more performing and I can push the ram to 2200Mhz 9-9-9-27 CR1 1.62v that is a real nice result for a kit originally designed to work @ 1600 8-8-8-24 CR2 1.35v 

I think that without the lack of AVX extensions, this Xeon will be head-to-head with all the new 8c/16t cpu at same frequency (maybe with a max 15-20% gap compared to the last 8th and 9th intel series).
So mission accomplished. I hope that this system could last for another 2-3 years before going for a 16c/32t or even something more.


----------



## inlandchris

*Battery*

I have been reading all day about the R4BE (this forum) because I have trouble too. Nobody ever found out why these strange events are occurring on this motherboard. Anybody ever tried replacing the battery? You know, the 3 volt (CR2032) bios battery?
I have had 2 PC’s with weird/strange things happening and we all start replacing everything, including me, twice! Almost bought another R4BE from eBay...from CHINA! dont do that.
Replace your $1 battery first. Then dry out your Mobo and use colored coolant to see those drips easier.
The SATA cables is a great idea and they do go bad. The caps do go bad but usually after 10 years for the non-Japanese type.
I guess everyone gave up on the R4BE and upgraded, sorry I was too late.
I did replace the PSU because the 12v was not steady, still is not!
Bought coolant flush and took several days flushing the system plus weird fat on the inside cap of the reservoir and added Mayhem coolant. Replaced CPU with my spare (3 times), did the Sata cable, inspected the cpu socket pins (really hard), replaced my video card with a spare, and then the battery. Of course the last try is the fix after spending weeks and $$.


----------



## skupples

I just rebuilt mine into a new case so I could stuff new stuff in my CL. I however never really ran into many game breaking issues with mine. I plan to keep it trucking for as long as it runs. It's the pinnacle board of a generation if you got a good sample  

I did exactly that. I replaced the battery, & all my SATA cables, & cleaned the heads/ports on PSU n fan cables w/ 90% alcohol.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Mathias said:


> Hi there,
> I was facing the same issue for some times here after updating bios and OS (win10 with the last cpu microcode).
> 
> After a lot of searching it seems like is an issue of some Asus board with nvidia driver and corsair link if used together.
> After update my geforce driver and close corsair link definitely now it seems like everything is working fine.
> 
> Hope this can help.


I don't have nor have I ever used Corsair link. But I do have the iCue software for my K95 keyboard. I wonder if that could be causing the issue.


inlandchris said:


> I have been reading all day about the R4BE (this forum) because I have trouble too. Nobody ever found out why these strange events are occurring on this motherboard. Anybody ever tried replacing the battery? You know, the 3 volt (CR2032) bios battery?
> I have had 2 PC’s with weird/strange things happening and we all start replacing everything, including me, twice! Almost bought another R4BE from eBay...from CHINA! dont do that.
> Replace your $1 battery first. Then dry out your Mobo and use colored coolant to see those drips easier.
> The SATA cables is a great idea and they do go bad. The caps do go bad but usually after 10 years for the non-Japanese type.
> I guess everyone gave up on the R4BE and upgraded, sorry I was too late.
> I did replace the PSU because the 12v was not steady, still is not!
> Bought coolant flush and took several days flushing the system plus weird fat on the inside cap of the reservoir and added Mayhem coolant. Replaced CPU with my spare (3 times), did the Sata cable, inspected the cpu socket pins (really hard), replaced my video card with a spare, and then the battery. Of course the last try is the fix after spending weeks and $$.


I will try replacing the battery. I hadn't thought of this.....


skupples said:


> I just rebuilt mine into a new case so I could stuff new stuff in my CL. I however never really ran into many game breaking issues with mine. I plan to keep it trucking for as long as it runs. It's the pinnacle board of a generation if you got a good sample
> 
> I did exactly that. I replaced the battery, & all my SATA cables, & cleaned the heads/ports on PSU n fan cables w/ 90% alcohol.


You never experienced the black screens and system freezes? What video card are you using?


----------



## skupples

oohhh, I think at the most, I had 3x GK110 Titans running on it. 

I had some issues, but I always kept my memory clocks conservative, & made sure to have ALL the power plugs hooked up (the extra CPU pins, and the extra molex PCIE power)

I pushed it, but not incredibly hard. Which may be where these issues crept in? IDK, I got one of the first boards shipped, in the US. 

the insanity is well documented in this thread. Luna n I almost got burned while trying to get our pre-orders shipped.

I do however remember these constant complaints  

the board also had the shortest lifespan of any product I've ever owned. Like a said, It's full of the best X79 has to give, i guess I just got a good sample. I'd be willing to be they did a tiny run. It was created afte 4930k was already old.


----------



## deanorthk

Still got mine running as my main rig. 
RIV BE with I7 4960x stock speed (i will oc later once my final case is there), and a FTW3 1080ti. 
using a 960evo pcie SSD mounted on the silverstone pcie adaptator.
All this with custom WC, based on EK WB and bitpowers stuff. 
All this will move to a corsair 1000D soon. 
I do get random freeze sometimes, I'll dig this thread out maybe there's a solution


----------



## deanorthk

ElevenEleven said:


> I got a full system from a friend, and it includes this motherboard and an i7 4930k. The motherboard has an EK plate over the southbridge and such, instead of the stock passive aluminum heatspreader. I want to remove all the water cooling and swap to air. Unfortunately the original ASUS chipset heatspreader is missing, and I'm not sure where to get a replacement. Any recommendations on a southbridge cooling solution, or do you think I might be okay with the EK plate being left there for passive cooling but without water running through it?


You know I have been searching for this wb for months, and gave up, because it's impossible to find


----------



## inlandchris

*EK*

I have it and I have just thrown in the towel on the R4BE, what is it worth?
Also, I have the full Monoblock but use the above because I like to use more tubing.


----------



## skupples

I have those blocks on for passive cooling & they work = to, or better than the stock metal chunks.

I was too lazy to install the old syncs, turns out they work just fine.


----------



## inlandchris

Yep, if ASUS designed thier tubing to cool the motherboard and guarantee it, then it does work. Motherboard and air-cooled cpu are usually 30 degrees C above ambient and it works fine. However, you want to overclock? best you use the water blocks which I find to be about 5 degrees above ambient while the norm for water blocks is 10 degrees over ambient. So, when I over clocked my R4BE to 4.5 Ghz, my CPU was around 40-50 degrees, idle = 29 degress and the motherboard (idle) around 30 degrees. I liked it and would not go back to air cool but for this mobo, I am done.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Brand new in box...

pm if interested.


----------



## Madmaxneo

deanorthk said:


> Still got mine running as my main rig.
> RIV BE with I7 4960x stock speed (i will oc later once my final case is there), and a FTW3 1080ti.
> using a 960evo pcie SSD mounted on the silverstone pcie adaptator.
> All this with custom WC, based on EK WB and bitpowers stuff.
> All this will move to a corsair 1000D soon.
> I do get random freeze sometimes, I'll dig this thread out maybe there's a solution


Some here also experience those same freezes, but as of yet we've been unable to find a solution. I have read there is an issue with nvidia cards and some Asus boards when running the Corsair link program. I personally don't use the Corsair link program but I do have the iCue software for the lighting effects and G keys on my K95 RGB. I am not sure if that is the issue, if it is then that basically makes this keyboard useless. Without the iCue software then this is just another mechanical keyboard with useless programmable G keys.


----------



## skupples

those macro keys were always kinda gimmicks anyways. You can program any key on any board to do whatever you want without special logitech/corsair software. 

my only RGB keyboard does all the color switching internally, & was only $60.... it's also relegated to work use cuz its sloppier than this corsair 10 keyless wireless K series whatever I'm on atm from my couch.


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> those macro keys were always kinda gimmicks anyways. You can program any key on any board to do whatever you want without special logitech/corsair software.
> 
> my only RGB keyboard does all the color switching internally, & was only $60.... it's also relegated to work use cuz its sloppier than this corsair 10 keyless wireless K series whatever I'm on atm from my couch.


I only use the G keys for quick email and other things I have to type often. I used to use the G keys for key combos in games (like Magicka) but I haven't really played many games lately. The RGB lighting is my primary usage. Right now I have it set so that certain sets of keys are different colors and then when a key is hit a purple and green wave ripples out from that key all the way to end of the board. It's a really cool effect when typing anything..lol. I even have two sets of keys set to fade between two colors.


----------



## deanorthk

Madmaxneo said:


> Some here also experience those same freezes, but as of yet we've been unable to find a solution. I have read there is an issue with nvidia cards and some Asus boards when running the Corsair link program. I personally don't use the Corsair link program but I do have the iCue software for the lighting effects and G keys on my K95 RGB. I am not sure if that is the issue, if it is then that basically makes this keyboard useless. Without the iCue software then this is just another mechanical keyboard with useless programmable G keys.


Thanks for the update though, usefull to know that.
On my side pretty basic logitech keyboard, and no icue software, I use a Aquaero 6 pro as my fan/pump controller. 
Those freeze though, happen only when I let the computer go to sleep/hibernation etc, sometimes it can't come out this state, and the journal log is not super helpfull I must say.

On the other side, with Nvme, 16gb of ram, windows 10, and a 2K 32" 144mhz monitor, I must admit I have no desire to update my computer, things are running so well. I might add a pcie USB3.1 gen 2 card to provide updated connectivity, but still, with a nas, cloud and so on, physical connectivy seems to me less important than it was before... 

I wish I knew about the 8 core Xeon before though, and ECC, 6 months ago I was debatting over myself, to morph this Mobo to a Roon Core server linux computer (for audio purpose), and I was searching about ECC compatibility.
I've found everywhere that my I7 4960X does not support ECC (that make sense, it's not a server CPU), but I never thought the motherboard could accept a Xeon


----------



## skupples

i went with a keyboard that has it all programmed into an onboard chip that you trigger w/ fn+ins/del for color/type of cycle. I don't think I can program my own layout, but its got 30 different modes built in, so yay!


----------



## Madmaxneo

deanorthk said:


> Thanks for the update though, usefull to know that.
> On my side pretty basic logitech keyboard, and no icue software, I use a Aquaero 6 pro as my fan/pump controller.
> Those freeze though, happen only when I let the computer go to sleep/hibernation etc, sometimes it can't come out this state, and the journal log is not super helpfull I must say.
> 
> On the other side, with Nvme, 16gb of ram, windows 10, and a 2K 32" 144mhz monitor, I must admit I have no desire to update my computer, things are running so well. I might add a pcie USB3.1 gen 2 card to provide updated connectivity, but still, with a nas, cloud and so on, physical connectivy seems to me less important than it was before...
> 
> I wish I knew about the 8 core Xeon before though, and ECC, 6 months ago I was debatting over myself, to morph this Mobo to a Roon Core server linux computer (for audio purpose), and I was searching about ECC compatibility.
> I've found everywhere that my I7 4960X does not support ECC (that make sense, it's not a server CPU), but I never thought the motherboard could accept a Xeon


The system freezes sound a bit different than what some here have experienced. The system freezes we experience happen at odd times no matter what we are doing nor what OC (if any) we have. I have had them happen like 4 times a day to maybe once in two weeks with no indication anywhere what they are. Myself and others have done all kinds of tests and tweaks and nothing seems to help or indicate what is going on. 
I've been thinking about the Xeon and wonder if changing chips might stop the random freezes. I do have another lower end Xeon around here somewhere and I have no idea why I hadn't thought about trying this before.


skupples said:


> i went with a keyboard that has it all programmed into an onboard chip that you trigger w/ fn+ins/del for color/type of cycle. I don't think I can program my own layout, but its got 30 different modes built in, so yay!


What keyboard do you use?
My K95 RGB has spoiled me because of the cool things it can do. Whatever you do don't get a K95 just to see, it may ruin all other keyboards for you...LOL.


----------



## skupples

Corsair will never compete w/ the quality of WASD, but I needed something wireless w/ mech caps. So I got the logitech wireless keyboard tray combo dealio with the 10 keyless K series. 

at work, I've gotta $60 Rottay, cuz I wanted some softwareless RGB action in the office. I detest & refuse to use any peripheral that requires management software, BESIDES AQUARO. 

& when I'm not using wireless, or at work. I use WASD CODE w/ clear switches. (by far the most responsive switch cherry makes, according to my fingers) 

At home, RGB = real gimmicky brightness.


----------



## deanorthk

A huge thanks for the bios update and drivers update link.. amazing work, I updated everything today and it's working perfectly fine.
I'm going to order a pcie card to add USB 3.1 gen 2 capabilities (especially for the included USB 3.1 port included in the corsair 1000D), and I guess my setup will be complete unless I fall and buy 4x8gb DDR3 stick


----------



## YaLu

Does anyone have an idea of ​​its value today? at what price can be sold / bought?


----------



## deanorthk

inlandchris said:


> I have it and I have just thrown in the towel on the R4BE, what is it worth?
> Also, I have the full Monoblock but use the above because I like to use more tubing.


I'm not sure how much they worth today, since they are close to impossible to find, hard to know really. they were like 140$ new I guess, so maybe 40/60$ max nowdays??


----------



## Rangerscott

Im waiting on EK to ship out the mounting bracket for my monoblock. Got it off ebay. I guess the original owner left the bracket on the mobo or something. Just glad they still got the part.


----------



## deanorthk

Rangerscott said:


> Im waiting on EK to ship out the mounting bracket for my monoblock. Got it off ebay. I guess the original owner left the bracket on the mobo or something. Just glad they still got the part.


That's a relief, really, and that's a very good point for EK. I just wish I'll be able to find one, just for the sake of the design too, this monoblock make the whole motherboard look incredible


----------



## skupples

My blox will live on forever!


----------



## airisom2

Well, there is the bitspower monoblock. It's basically three separate blocks (pch, cpu, vrm), but with an extra block that joins them altogether. 

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=bitspower+x79

Special order only.


----------



## Rangerscott

Damn. I just found my box and all I have is the block. Sucks being such a time difference when emailing them. 

Hope they have the screws and spacers I need.


----------



## inlandchris

Contact customer service at EK and tell them what screws you want. If you cant, they will lookup the part numbers. I ordered some missing screws and they are real good at that. Not cheap but they are original


----------



## Rangerscott

Ha. I thought EK was a Britsh company. A little farther east on the map. I think its a 7 hour difference. I waited up last night for a new email but didnt make it. LoL

Just got an email saying they sent the bracket and pads. Not sure if thet read my last email.


----------



## deanorthk

airisom2 said:


> Well, there is the bitspower monoblock. It's basically three separate blocks (pch, cpu, vrm), but with an extra block that joins them altogether.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=bitspower+x79
> 
> Special order only.


Aye, last year I contacted bitspower directly, but those were impossible to order, and in the end, i'm quite happy with it, since I didn't like the look that much, compared to both EK solutions (the monoblock and the two block, which I prefer since I don't want to replace my Hybrid Cooling waterblock CPU )


----------



## reev3r

Okay guys, I'm back after a while. Things got a bit tough there for a while, and with some R4BE frustrations (system freeze issue) just got me tired of dealing with trouble, just want the dang thing to work... 

Anyhow, I have a couple of RAID questions that I don't know if anybody can help or not...

First question, is it possible to extend a STRIPED array on RST?

Second question, is it possible to create a 2nd array on RST?

I have my OS running on an 840 STRIPE, and having recently purchased 20 4th gen systems to sell ($10 EACH!!!! 8-16GB RAM in each, four had 250GB 850 Evo SSD's) and I am hoping to either extend my current 2 drive STRIPE to 4 drives (adding 2 drives), or creating a 2nd array and just having 2 logical partitions. I'm pretty fine either way, I just want to be able to install games without needing to swap them around to mass storage, while also having a quick (relatively, due to OpROM load) OS boot.

Any help is appreciated, and if I need to post this elsewhere, just let me know. 

Thanks guys, it's good to be back!


----------



## Laithan

reev3r said:


> Okay guys, I'm back after a while. Things got a bit tough there for a while, and with some R4BE frustrations (system freeze issue) just got me tired of dealing with trouble, just want the dang thing to work...
> 
> Anyhow, I have a couple of RAID questions that I don't know if anybody can help or not...
> 
> First question, is it possible to extend a STRIPED array on RST?
> 
> Second question, is it possible to create a 2nd array on RST?
> 
> I have my OS running on an 840 STRIPE, and having recently purchased 20 4th gen systems to sell ($10 EACH!!!! 8-16GB RAM in each, four had 250GB 850 Evo SSD's) and I am hoping to either extend my current 2 drive STRIPE to 4 drives (adding 2 drives), or creating a 2nd array and just having 2 logical partitions. I'm pretty fine either way, I just want to be able to install games without needing to swap them around to mass storage, while also having a quick (relatively, due to OpROM load) OS boot.
> 
> Any help is appreciated, and if I need to post this elsewhere, just let me know.
> 
> Thanks guys, it's good to be back!


That kind of an option isn't going to be found on chipset RAID implementations that I am aware of. 

Here is how I would do it (if you have Acronis True image) _*the safe way*_:
(1) Attach USB 3.0 external drive or internal drive, either will be fine (just don't use USB 2.0). Obviously larger than your total used disk space. 
(2) Use bootable USB drive to load Acronis and make a full disk image of your current RAID 0 array (Verify the image is good by reading it again after you've finished creating)
(3) Delete the existing array, install the new drives and create the new array
(4) Use bootable USB drive to load Acronis and restore your image

It will be like you didn't skip a beat..


----------



## reev3r

Laithan said:


> reev3r said:
> 
> 
> 
> Okay guys, I'm back after a while. Things got a bit tough there for a while, and with some R4BE frustrations (system freeze issue) just got me tired of dealing with trouble, just want the dang thing to work...
> 
> Anyhow, I have a couple of RAID questions that I don't know if anybody can help or not...
> 
> First question, is it possible to extend a STRIPED array on RST?
> 
> Second question, is it possible to create a 2nd array on RST?
> 
> I have my OS running on an 840 STRIPE, and having recently purchased 20 4th gen systems to sell ($10 EACH!!!! 8-16GB RAM in each, four had 250GB 850 Evo SSD's) and I am hoping to either extend my current 2 drive STRIPE to 4 drives (adding 2 drives), or creating a 2nd array and just having 2 logical partitions. I'm pretty fine either way, I just want to be able to install games without needing to swap them around to mass storage, while also having a quick (relatively, due to OpROM load) OS boot.
> 
> Any help is appreciated, and if I need to post this elsewhere, just let me know. 🙂
> 
> Thanks guys, it's good to be back!
> 
> 
> 
> That kind of an option isn't going to be found on chipset RAID implementations that I am aware of.
> 
> Here is how I would do it (if you have Acronis True image) _*the safe way*_:
> (1) Attach USB 3.0 external drive or internal drive, either will be fine (just don't use USB 2.0). Obviously larger than your total used disk space.
> (2) Use bootable USB drive to load Acronis and make a full disk image of your current RAID 0 array (Verify the image is good by reading it again after you've finished creating)
> (3) Delete the existing array, install the new drives and create the new array
> (4) Use bootable USB drive to load Acronis and restore your image
> 
> It will be like you didn't skip a beat.. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. I am thoroughly disappointed, as the RST documentation give instructions on how to accomplish a second array, but alas, the options are not there. I know that there is the RST Matrix driver (or Matrix RST), and also the RSTe driver, and I am sure it comes down to one of those being the necessary driver, but it's not something that can be changed post creation.

I was hoping for a solution that would permit me to avoid cloning the array, but that will be the route I'll have to go it seems.

Unless someone comes along with a different solution in the next couple days, that's likely the route I'll end up going. Fortunately I already have a license for Acronis, so at least that's covered. Yay/not Yay?

Anyhow, thanks again guys!


----------



## skupples

Long time no see, Reev. 

IDK how well raid would work on the non intel ports. I ended up just adding a raid card.


----------



## Rangerscott

What I do on downloaded games is I just back them up on a spare 2tb or bigger hhd. If I ever want to replay them, I'll have them ready instead of having to re-download.


----------



## Laithan

skupples said:


> Long time no see, Reev.
> 
> IDK how well raid would work on the non intel ports. I ended up just adding a raid card.


Same here and they are dirt cheap now too ($20 ish) that NVMe has hit the market. I ended up with an LSI 9260-8i w/Fastpath and BBU and it has served me well other than the additional bootup time... far superior to the chipset freebie (true hardware RAID) and I can easily move my drives to another PC without any concern of compatibility.


----------



## Rangerscott

All that wait from EK and they didnt even send the right parts and missing a part on top of it.


----------



## Laithan

Rangerscott said:


> All that wait from EK and they didnt even send the right parts and missing a part on top of it.


yah it happens... they are usually pretty good about fixing problems. I built a gaming PC for my son and ordered used video cards from eBay... after sending the 3rd GPU back, the 4th one finally worked (yah.. 3 in a row were DOA)... his bday present was delayed over a month and a half navigating the returns.


----------



## Shadowarez

Heya guys finally got around to installing my board back into my cosmos II with a brand new seasonic Prime platium 850watt PSU. Just tried to turn it on it clicks on for 1 second then stops fans don't spin. 
The boards lighting up but it won't turn over. Iv taken battery out, reset cmos from back same thing happens makes a click sound then stops. It won't do that again unless I turn power off then try power on again please help 

1. Rive 4 BE Board
2.intel i7 4960x
3.hyper 212 Black Edition cooler
4.coolermaster 2 Cosmos case
5.Titan X maxwell
7.32gb Corsair Dominator Platium 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Gualichu04

*New nvme supporting bios*

I found this when looking up nvme support and someone made a bios that works with a dd-on card for m.2 ssd
https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/...tion-bios-0801-beta-with-nvme-support.235636/


----------



## skupples

Shadowarez said:


> Heya guys finally got around to installing my board back into my cosmos II with a brand new seasonic Prime platium 850watt PSU. Just tried to turn it on it clicks on for 1 second then stops fans don't spin.
> The boards lighting up but it won't turn over. Iv taken battery out, reset cmos from back same thing happens makes a click sound then stops. It won't do that again unless I turn power off then try power on again please help
> 
> 1. Rive 4 BE Board
> 2.intel i7 4960x
> 3.hyper 212 Black Edition cooler
> 4.coolermaster 2 Cosmos case
> 5.Titan X maxwell
> 7.32gb Corsair Dominator Platium
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


did you forget the CPU pin?


----------



## Shadowarez

It's in I got the 8pin installed there is a 4 pin to the left but the cables provided don't come with a single 4 pin. Iv never had to use this before. To right can see 8 pin is in. 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

the extra 4pin and molex south of PCI-E are for insanity level OC power levels. 

so in short, you're connected properly...

memory slotted correctly?


----------



## Shadowarez

Yeah reseated it tries with none same tried with 1-4 sticks same issue. PSU worked perfectly when tested with x299 system 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Laithan

I had a slight leak (I got a couple drips that landed behind the CPU socket) causing the exact same symptoms. The system would power on for a split second and then shut off. I got it working. The source of may not be the same for you but they both have the socket in common. I would pull the CPU and inspect all the pins and the cpu itself very closely. Clean everything up for a good inspection.

Other things to try would be to rule out the case (short) by pulling the board out to be bench tested. This will also force you to re-connect all PSU connectors. You can try to unplug/remove everything that isn't required for basic use. If you have a spare PSU it couldn't hurt to try it when on the bench. 

Best of luck, you'll solve the riddle


----------



## Shadowarez

Should I be using the washers on the screws for fastening the board to the case? The lil red paper ones? 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

you shouldn't have to. Mobos typically have special contact points around the hole to deal w/ the metal on PCB factor. Pretty sure this is no exclusion. It doesn't hurt though. I typically use the little plastic ones that come w. GPU waterblocks.


----------



## red-ray

*You should consider a 5 drive RAID 5 volume*



reev3r said:


> First question, is it possible to extend a STRIPED array on RST?


Yes and you should consider a 5 drive RAID 5 volume as this will allow for one disk failing, see https://www.intel.co.uk/content/www/uk/en/support/articles/000005997/technologies.html

I would plug 3 extra drives into the system and then see what options the RST GUI offers.

I know for sure you can have multiple RAID volumes and I have had 4 RAID volumes on my X58 system with RST RAID BIOS is 8.5.0.1030 since 2010-12-07 which is when I installed Windows 7 x64.

I use RST 13.6.0.1002 on my ASUS P6X58D Premium system and suggest you make sure you have that or a later version, but checkout https://social.technet.microsoft.co...t-support-on-windows-10?forum=win10itprosetup


----------



## Shadowarez

I'll try that tonight as well as reset CPU. 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Rangerscott

Honestly I couldnt tell you if I get freezes ups. I do get the occasional not wanting to fully boot up and see the asus logo multiple times.

Of course my mobo is basically brand new. I bought it years ago and it sat in the closet. Id have to go back on here when I first booted it.


----------



## Rangerscott

Now I get an email from EK saying they dont have the bracket after saying they did and charging me.


----------



## Madmaxneo

reev3r said:


> Okay guys, I'm back after a while. Things got a bit tough there for a while, and with some R4BE frustrations (system freeze issue) just got me tired of dealing with trouble, just want the dang thing to work...
> 
> 
> Thanks guys, it's good to be back!


Hey, welcome back! How've you been?

I don't know anything about raid but what kind of system freezes were you experiencing and what did you do to get rid of them? 

There are a few of us here that are experiencing random system freezes and nothing indicates what could be the issue. Mine have been going on for almost 2 years or so now, it's not any better nor any more worse. I've done all kinds of troubleshooting and nothing seems to work. I'm pretty much of the mind now that it is a board issue. So any insights or things you did might help....


----------



## Rangerscott

That sucks yalls are having problems. Ive never touched the bios so Id have to see what Ive been using.


Looks like Im gonna have to make my own back plate for the mono block.


----------



## skupples

there was a thread up last night by a guy asking about interest in custom brackets (examples given were for old closed loop coolers, etc but this should qualify.


----------



## Shadowarez

Well board still does that click once then nothing with no CPU and it being reseated. Think the board is finally just not going to work. 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Rangerscott

Got the standoffs/spacers for the actual monoblock from EK. So this weekend its make a back plate time.

If anyone has one or pics of the actual back plate and can post them, Id be very greatful.


----------



## 113802

Updated Microcode bios: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CYOu3cTZMra5FZYpcbId6UnLWtoB2hSy

Flash with Flashback just like previously, new microcode versions can be viewed below. This does include NVMe support.

disclaimer
/*
* I am not responsible for bricked motherboards, dead USB ports, thermonuclear
* war, or the current economic crisis caused by you flashing this
* UEFI. YOU are choosing to make these modificiations, and
* if you point your finger at me for messing up your motherboard, I will
* laugh at you.
*/


----------



## YaLu

WannaBeOCer said:


> Updated Microcode bios: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CYOu3cTZMra5FZYpcbId6UnLWtoB2hSy
> 
> Flash with Flashback just like previously, new microcode versions can be viewed below. This does include NVMe support.
> 
> disclaimer
> /*
> * I am not responsible for bricked motherboards, dead USB ports, thermonuclear
> * war, or the current economic crisis caused by you flashing this
> * UEFI. YOU are choosing to make these modificiations, and
> * if you point your finger at me for messing up your motherboard, I will
> * laugh at you.
> */


Thanks,
Which could be an honest price to sell a R4BE?


----------



## Laithan

WannaBeOCer said:


> Updated Microcode bios: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CYOu3cTZMra5FZYpcbId6UnLWtoB2hSy
> 
> Flash with Flashback just like previously, new microcode versions can be viewed below. This does include NVMe support.
> 
> disclaimer
> /*
> * I am not responsible for bricked motherboards, dead USB ports, thermonuclear
> * war, or the current economic crisis caused by you flashing this
> * UEFI. YOU are choosing to make these modificiations, and
> * if you point your finger at me for messing up your motherboard, I will
> * laugh at you.
> */


*<bows>*
*<salutes>*
+REP

:specool:


----------



## deafboy

So partly out of boredom and partly our of curiosity I ended up snagging an E5-1680V2 on eBay from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/254185282778

I made an offer at $200 thinking he'd counter, accepted right away so you may be able to get it for even less than $200, lol.

See how things go, I know I likely won't be able to get it to clock as high as my 3930k buuuut hopefully not too far off. Excited to play around again, as much as I absolutely love my chip, I feel like I know it inside and out, haha. And well, I don't see the value in a full upgrade just yet.


----------



## Laithan

deafboy said:


> So partly out of boredom and partly our of curiosity I ended up snagging an E5-1680V2 on eBay from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/254185282778
> 
> I made an offer at $200 thinking he'd counter, accepted right away so you may be able to get it for even less than $200, lol.
> 
> See how things go, I know I likely won't be able to get it to clock as high as my 3930k buuuut hopefully not too far off. Excited to play around again, as much as I absolutely love my chip, I feel like I know it inside and out, haha. And well, I don't see the value in a full upgrade just yet.


Welcome to the club. It's a great CPU, whopping 25MB cache  



Code:


Cache comparison
1650v2 = 2.0MB per physical CPU (12MB)
1660v2 = 2.5MB per physical CPU (15MB)
1680v2 = 3.1MB per physical CPU (25MB)

 4.4Ghz is probably the average from what others said and my own experience... unlike my E5-1650 V2 that I could get up to 4.7Ghz. I'm honestly not "feeling/missing" the 300Mhz on anything except benchmarks so it's about the same to me for gaming as far as FPS and frame times. 


-----

Going to flash the new BIOS @WannaBeOCer was kind enough to update for us. If you aren't aware these microcode updates are to address the side channel execution vulnerabilities (this is the latest). So yes, you all should flash this. 

I'll report back when done to help giver others some confidence if they are on the fence. 

Guide for flashing if needed
https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...ck-edition-owners-club-1505.html#post26553596


----------



## Laithan

Microcode 42e

All is well

:drunken:


----------



## deafboy

Thanks! Looking forward to it. Looks like I'll be flashing the bios while I'm at it, lol.


----------



## deanorthk

I'm going to grab a xeon 8 core and probable ECC ram and try if it works, if that work, I think i'm going to swap my 4960x cu for the xeon


----------



## Shadowarez

Guess you can remove me from this club as if today was a Honor being apart of it.









Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## broken pixel

Why are you tossing the board in the trash? At least hang it on the wall lol. 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shadowarez

No room in my place and don't need reminder how it quit on me outa nowhere. 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## broken pixel

Do you want to sell it? I have a collection of boards and GPUs on my wall at my computer shop. 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shadowarez

It's already in trash with garbage juice on it. 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## broken pixel

Lol, oh well RIP. 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shadowarez

Aye not how wanted to retire the board. Oh well onto building 3 x299 systems 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## broken pixel

Nice, I am still using the x99 chipset with RVE10 and 5930k. I wanted to upgrade but see no reason to yet. 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shadowarez

There is none even optane doesn't work on x299 have the 800p 118gb intel own software can't detect it. Wait on ryzen 3000

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


----------



## Clos

Thanks for the Bios Update Wanna be OCer'!

Stupid question for you guys... 
Anyone else experience their BIOS going full Default when you have a power loss? (as in your house loses power)... Luckily i can quick load my Profiles but, it is slightly annoying... If i shut it down normally, all is good. If i get sudden power loss from lets say a blip or rainstorm... bios goes full default... *shrug*

I've installed my Xeon 8 Core.. everything works fine at 4ghz but system crashes playing pubg after about 2 hours... if i just use X.M.P Profile and default cpu clocks, PC runs forever (minus power blips.. lol)


----------



## 113802

Clos said:


> Thanks for the Bios Update Wanna be OCer'!
> 
> Stupid question for you guys...
> Anyone else experience their BIOS going full Default when you have a power loss? (as in your house loses power)... Luckily i can quick load my Profiles but, it is slightly annoying... If i shut it down normally, all is good. If i get sudden power loss from lets say a blip or rainstorm... bios goes full default... *shrug*
> 
> I've installed my Xeon 8 Core.. everything works fine at 4ghz but system crashes playing pubg after about 2 hours... if i just use X.M.P Profile and default cpu clocks, PC runs forever (minus power blips.. lol)


Have you replaced the CMOS battery? Sounds like it's dead.


----------



## Laithan

deanorthk said:


> I'm going to grab a xeon 8 core and probable ECC ram and try if it works, if that work, I think i'm going to swap my 4960x cu for the xeon


FYI, ECC is not required to use the Xeon. Works fine with non-ECC also.


----------



## deafboy

What kind of volts are you guys pumping into these xeons?


----------



## skupples

i ran my sandy n ivy 30ks @ 1.4 for yearse n years.

both chips are still fully functional, though the 3930k did seem to have some possible degrading after 3 years of abuse, thus why i'd do something silly like buying a 4930k as a 3930k owner.


----------



## deafboy

Yeah I've always considered 1.4v max for my 3930k but try to keep things closer or under 1.35v but wasn't sure if things were different for the xeons. All my servers have xeons but not overclockable.


----------



## Laithan

If you have a decent water block, 1.45v max. On AIR, 1.4v max IMO

Note I am referring to _*voltage under load*_ factoring vDroop


----------



## deafboy

Sweet, essentially will treat it like my 3930k then. Have plenty of cooling capacity with the 2 1080s, lol, but will keep things 1.4 and under. Thanks.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I found something common with the random system freezes I have been getting. Updates, and not just Windows updates but also java updates.

Two weeks ago I had several system freezes and then restarts within a few hours, but then I noticed I had a Java update pending. This got me to thinking because I remember seeing update notifications before after rebooting from a system freeze. Last night I had a system freeze and rebooted, then within a few seconds of my system being completely rebooted I had a second system freeze. When I booted up again I immediately checked for updates and there was a Windows Update. 

In the past I remember seeing notifications for updates from a few other programs in my system right after rebooting from a system freeze.

So now I am starting to think it is less of a MB issue and more likely a Windows issue.


----------



## Clos

WannaBeOCer said:


> Have you replaced the CMOS battery? Sounds like it's dead.


Honestly no, not yet. Planned to when i do some re-working of the current setup.


----------



## SparkyBoy006

*Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE Drivers + BIOS (NVME Support & Spectre/Meltdown Mitigation)*

Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE OEM INFO/BIOS/DRIVER PACK

*4/28/19:*

*Updated Drivers:*
-Asmedia_USB3_1.16.56.1
-Intel_Chipset_10.1.17969.8134
-Intel_LAN_23.5.2
-Intel_RST_Drivers_&_Software_Set_v17.2.6.1027 (Install when SATA is set to RAID mode)
-Intel_RSTe_5.5.0.2012 (Install when SATA is set to AHCI mode)
-Realtek_HDAudio_8688

*Updated BIOS:*
-CPU Microcode 306E4 IVB-E - 42E (3-14-2019)

*Updated Utilities:*
-ASUS_AI_Suite3_WIN10_V3.00.51

WARNING: Per Intel instructions, make sure to disable Bitlocker (if you have it enabled) before flashing BIOS with CPU Microcode update! (You can safely re-enable after flashing)

Download the Latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE Driver/BIOS/Utility Pack HERE
_MD5_: d4ae2b6e95da6eacffab9828bf3a70a6
*Read the included "ReadMe" files for important instructions and notes!!*

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*Initial Release 07/29/15*
*Change History:* Read the included "ReadMe" file for complete history of releases.


----------



## Laithan

SparkyBoy006 said:


> Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE OEM INFO/BIOS/DRIVER PACK
> 
> *4/28/19:*
> 
> *Updated Drivers:*
> -Asmedia_USB3_1.16.56.1
> -Intel_Chipset_10.1.17969.8134
> -Intel_LAN_23.5.2
> -Intel_RST_Drivers_&_Software_Set_v17.2.6.1027 (Install when SATA is set to RAID mode)
> -Intel_RSTe_5.5.0.2012 (Install when SATA is set to AHCI mode)
> -Realtek_HDAudio_8688
> 
> *Updated BIOS:*
> -CPU Microcode 306E4 IVB-E - 42E (3-14-2019)
> 
> *Updated Utilities:*
> -ASUS_AI_Suite3_WIN10_V3.00.51
> 
> WARNING: Per Intel instructions, make sure to disable Bitlocker (if you have it enabled) before flashing BIOS with CPU Microcode update! (You can safely re-enable after flashing)
> 
> Download the Latest Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE Driver/BIOS/Utility Pack HERE
> _MD5_: d4ae2b6e95da6eacffab9828bf3a70a6
> *Read the included "ReadMe" files for important instructions and notes!!*
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> *Initial Release 07/29/15*
> *Change History:* Read the included "ReadMe" file for complete history of releases.


Thanks for providing the support! +REP :thumb:

Since I know others will ask, does this BIOS include NVMe?


----------



## SparkyBoy006

Laithan said:


> Thanks for providing the support! +REP :thumb:
> 
> Since I know others will ask, does this BIOS include NVMe?


Yes, NVMe support is included. More info is in the readme or on Asus' Forum.


----------



## deafboy

Anyone with the 1680v2 have any issues? I got the CPU installed tonight and ever since I'll get error code 34 on and off upon booting.

Updated the BIOS to the latest one posted in here and after clearing the BIOS it'll boot just fine, change pretty much anything and I get the 34 pretty consistently


----------



## Laithan

deafboy said:


> Anyone with the 1680v2 have any issues? I got the CPU installed tonight and ever since I'll get error code 34 on and off upon booting.
> 
> Updated the BIOS to the latest one posted in here and after clearing the BIOS it'll boot just fine, change pretty much anything and I get the 34 pretty consistently


I found the 1680 to be a little finicky at first also. This isn't thoroughly tested by any means but will get you started.


----------



## deafboy

That's a BIOS profile yeah? (sorry, at work so can't check just yet)

Thank you 

Will play around with it a bit more tonight. Have you found the latest BIOS (third party) to be stable? or which BIOS are you running?


----------



## Laithan

deafboy said:


> That's a BIOS profile yeah? (sorry, at work so can't check just yet)
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Will play around with it a bit more tonight. Have you found the latest BIOS (third party) to be stable? or which BIOS are you running?


Yes sir. It was something I just threw together for a basic start @ 4.4Ghz. You'll need to add your memory timings, etc. etc. but should at least get you booted.


----------



## deafboy

Thanks... I'll give that a go.

I'm able to get it to boot into Windows, it's just been inconsistent but will see how things go tonight.


----------



## deafboy

Unfortunately no such luck with your profile @Laithan

Resulted pretty much in the exact same thing

If I do a fresh flash of the BIOS, clear the CMOS, and do the Mem OK button it'll boot into windows just fine, lol.

If I then restart or try changing anything in the BIOS I'm greeted with the lovely 34 error code

I wish the manual gave something more than "CPU post-memory initialization" for the error description, lol

I think I may need to order some more thermal paste and take the CPU out, reseat, and start testing things piece by piece. Just find it interesting that it's been soooo finicky

Before I go that route I may try different BIOS' and see if I get any luck there...

Any suggestions/recommendations welcome...


----------



## reev3r

deafboy said:


> Unfortunately no such luck with your profile @Laithan
> 
> Resulted pretty much in the exact same thing
> 
> If I do a fresh flash of the BIOS, clear the CMOS, and do the Mem OK button it'll boot into windows just fine, lol.
> 
> If I then restart or try changing anything in the BIOS I'm greeted with the lovely 34 error code
> 
> I wish the manual gave something more than "CPU post-memory initialization" for the error description, lol
> 
> I think I may need to order some more thermal paste and take the CPU out, reseat, and start testing things piece by piece. Just find it interesting that it's been soooo finicky
> 
> Before I go that route I may try different BIOS' and see if I get any luck there...
> 
> Any suggestions/recommendations welcome...


Was it you that had mentioned using ECC earlier? I was a bit lost in what I was reading... Thinking that may be your issue... Unsure though. Have you tried that CPU without ECC if that's what you're using now?


----------



## deafboy

reev3r said:


> Was it you that had mentioned using ECC earlier? I was a bit lost in what I was reading... Thinking that may be your issue... Unsure though. Have you tried that CPU without ECC if that's what you're using now?


I am currently using my Dominator Platinums. I was just mentioning earlier that I have ECC available as an option if that'd fix it, lol

I went and loaded the "beta" bios on ASUS's website for the board onto the second BIOS chip, same results


----------



## deafboy

Alright, so not guaranteed I found the solution buuuut it's looking like it might be...

So after some Googling I came across a random thread over on the ASUS forum with some guy saying that code 34 in the BIOS meant it was past the CPU post phase and the BIOS was waiting for input.

Not entirely sure why it worked the first time after flashing, clearing, and all that jazz but not on subsequent boots BUUUUT after going from DP to HDMI to test things I noticed that I now have a display during post and that the BIOS was in fact waiting on input. I'm watercooled and it was complaining about the missing CPU fan, lol.

We'll see how things go buuuuut one step in the right direction, so weird... A lot of wasted brain cycles for a simple fix, haha


----------



## Moustache

sorry to interrupt this thread, anybody want to sell their r4be?
https://www.overclock.net/forum/14685-main-components/1725192-wtb-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition.html

thanks guys


----------



## nofearek9

hello

coming from the x58 platform and might build a "new" system using the rampage iv BE,saw that lot of plp are using and OC the 8 core xeon 1680,but what about more cores ? is a better cpu with more cores and able to overclock 4+ghz ?

(for example Intel Xeon E5-2697 v2 ,12cores)


----------



## deafboy

nofearek9 said:


> hello
> 
> coming from the x58 platform and might build a "new" system using the rampage iv BE,saw that lot of plp are using and OC the 8 core xeon 1680,but what about more cores ? is a better cpu with more cores and able to overclock 4+ghz ?
> 
> (for example Intel Xeon E5-2697 v2 ,12cores)


The 2xxx series isn't overclockable


----------



## nofearek9

so 1680 is the best cpu you can have?


----------



## deafboy

Depends what your use case is, for an overall multi-use case I would say yes.

That being said I have a pair of 2670s in my server but that's a different use case, lol


----------



## nofearek9

it will be just for gaming so for sure i want 4+ghz cpu
PS yes i saw your crazy setup


----------



## Laithan

Excluding XEONS, the X79 only supported unlocked Core i7's up to 6 cores (12 threads).

This is the reason the XEON E5-1680V2 (8 cores/16 threads) are so special on this platform (they also extend the life). The 1680V2 is supported on X79 (provided the BIOS has been updated) and the best part is that it is *unlocked* too . This CPU was not marketed to my knowledge outside of MAC PROs at the time. My speculation is that Apple must have struck a special deal with Intel because Intel was focused on X99 and a lot of people never even heard of this CPU. It is also EXCLUDED from the "family" of IVY-e processors however the specs for the CPU itself can be found on Intel's site. 

Another tidbit, if you can get one "pulled from a MAC PRO" there's a good chance it has never even been overclocked since I don't think MAC permits overclocking.


----------



## nofearek9

thanks for your comments,was hopping that 10c and 12c would overclock as well


----------



## deanorthk

Laithan said:


> Excluding XEONS, the X79 only supported unlocked Core i7's up to 6 cores (12 threads).
> 
> This is the reason the XEON E5-1680V2 (8 cores/16 threads) are so special on this platform (they also extend the life). The 1680V2 is supported on X79 (provided the BIOS has been updated) and the best part is that it is *unlocked* too . This CPU was not marketed to my knowledge outside of MAC PROs at the time. My speculation is that Apple must have struck a special deal with Intel because Intel was focused on X99 and a lot of people never even heard of this CPU. It is also EXCLUDED from the "family" of IVY-e processors however the specs for the CPU itself can be found on Intel's site.
> 
> Another tidbit, if you can get one "pulled from a MAC PRO" there's a good chance it has never even been overclocked since I don't think MAC permits overclocking.


I didn't get that the 1680V2 were unlocked, thanks for the reminder! 
I can't wait to test it, my 4960x works perfectly well and oc as well (although I don't push it, I don't need), but I'm curious to see how this 8/16 will perform, in gaming too (although I doubt to see many benefits in most game).
I do not play in 4K anyway, [email protected] gsync only, so shouldn't make any differences.


----------



## Laithan

deanorthk said:


> I didn't get that the 1680V2 were unlocked, thanks for the reminder!
> I can't wait to test it, my 4960x works perfectly well and oc as well (although I don't push it, I don't need), but I'm curious to see how this 8/16 will perform, in gaming too (although I doubt to see many benefits in most game).
> I do not play in 4K anyway, [email protected] gsync only, so shouldn't make any differences.


yw

For those interested, there are also unlocked 6-cores, E5-1650V2 and E5-1660V2 (the 1660 has a bit more cache). It has been my experience that unlocked Xeons have always overclocked very well. The 1680V2 is not quite as good perhaps as the best you can expect will probably be 4.4Ghz across all 8 cores (good enough for me). Anything higher seems very difficult if not impossible to get stable although I still give it a go once in a while. 

Also if anyone needs more than 64GB of ram, these Xeons up the limit to 256GB.


----------



## deafboy

I actually have noticed a little bit of an improvement in gaming, albeit not too much, just higher minimum frame rates

Not sure if it's the extra cache or what but I'm quite pleased with the upgrade


----------



## airisom2

It looks like most 1680 v2s top out at around 4.4-4.5 all core. Others have had more success with the 6 core xeon parts when it comes to overclocking. I remember a few hitting 4.6-4.7ghz which is really good for IB-E. Because there are two less cores, it's easier to cool as well which helps out a good bit if the chip scales well with voltage.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey guys



Just a random question, once we install the BIOS with NvME enabled, can we boot from that drive or will it only function as a secondary drive ? ... Also, is there a download to the latest stable custom BIOS ?




::: EDIT :::

I am using a 4960X, but for some reason my OC isnt working like before (fiddled with BIOS versions recently) ... Does anyone have a profile that is 4.5Ghz or 4.8Ghz ? ...


----------



## Clos

Custom Bios should let you use nvme drive as boot drive. As faer as i know most of us have been very successful.

I'm running an Intel PCI-e 1.2TB SSD in Mine.


----------



## Laithan

Emissary of Pain said:


> Hey guys
> 
> Also, is there a download to the latest stable custom BIOS ?


See 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...ck-edition-owners-club-1552.html#post27943638

and 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...ck-edition-owners-club-1554.html#post27948090

and lastly (I flashed from the first post above, all is well)
https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...ck-edition-owners-club-1505.html#post26553596


If you are not already on 0801, expect some improvements with overclocking. Enjoy


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Laithan said:


> Enjoy


You are a legend ... thank you very much


----------



## Saruman

Hello guys. Nice to find you. I'm glad that I see more people still using this platform/board. I've recently moved from Asus P9X79-WS to RIVBE.

Well my 4930K is an average clocker and I used to have it 24/7 at 4.3Ghz/1.16v under load. Now that I moved to RIVBE I'm struggling to make it work stable.
It seems to need 0.05v more!
May this happen because P9X79-WS has two more phases for the cpu comparing to RIVBE? I was expecting better results. :/


Another thing is about Bios. When I use the original asus 0801 I can see better performance than the custom with the updated microcode.
I use win7x64 and I have not enabled any option for Intel's vulnerabilities.

Something last which drives me crazy is CPU-z monitoring. It always shows the half vcore. It's really confusing. :S

Any advice would be great.


----------



## nofearek9

which 16gb mem sticks work with this motherboard?


----------



## skupples

I'd recommend checking the digital pdf on asus' site, and or checking the club thread on the official asus forums. They tend to keep their OP up to date.


----------



## Madmaxneo

nofearek9 said:


> which 16gb mem sticks work with this motherboard?


Do they have 16gb DDR3 sticks?

Otherwise, just about any DDR3 stick will work...


----------



## nofearek9

yes server ram have 32gb sticks as well ,like : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-M3...845117&hash=item42001f9af8:g:X1IAAOSwuiJcygCP


----------



## Laithan

Code:


RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION Beta BIOS 0801
Enables 128GB(8*16GB) support by IM ( Intelligent Memory ) memory modules

The board supported 64GB max until the latest BIOS was released in 2014, now supporting 128GB. The point being that 16GB modules are now supported.

Has anyone actually tested a 32GB module in this board? It's out of spec which I know doesn't necessarily mean it will not work but....


----------



## nofearek9

another question with latest asus beta bios 0801 will the motherboard boot with 1680 ?(previous owner was using a 2670)


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

1680 will boot with all R4BE bios’


----------



## nofearek9

*edit*
now read correct  good new i will not need to buy second cpu just for bios update.
*edit2*
some info about 16gb ram on x79 : https://www.intelligentmemory.com/fileadmin/download/compatibilitylist.pdf and https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6...mory-16gb-ddr3-udimm-memory-review/index.html


----------



## Calathea

Hi Guys, been an owner of Rampage IV black for a long time. Took the time to reinstall windows 10 with all the new drivers and also updated to the modded bios. Nice! 

I ran into an unexpected problem though. With the new bios, my Dell U2412M's usb hub is no longer recognized in bios nor windows. Ideas?


----------



## Laithan

Calathea said:


> Hi Guys, been an owner of Rampage IV black for a long time. Took the time to reinstall windows 10 with all the new drivers and also updated to the modded bios. Nice!
> 
> I ran into an unexpected problem though. With the new bios, my Dell U2412M's usb hub is no longer recognized in bios nor windows. Ideas?


0801 is technically a BETA BIOS but IMO it is the best for this board and many of us have it flashed without issues. All my USB ports work just fine, both 2.0/3.0. Ensure they are configured/enabled in the BIOS. Did you load bios defaults after flashing the BIOS and then re-configure everything (recommended)? Check your monitor's USB upstream cable to make sure it is plugged in. Try both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 ports as well as rear ports and front ports if you have them connected. Test the hub on another computer/laptop (this way you know for sure where the issue is located). 

GL!


----------



## nofearek9

whats the purpose for that power connector ?


----------



## Calathea

*Calathea*



nofearek9 said:


> whats the purpose for that power connector ?


This is extra 12V power to the pci-e slots for multi gpu setups. Not really needed.


Laithan said:


> 0801 is technically a BETA BIOS but IMO it is the best for this board and many of us have it flashed without issues. All my USB ports work just fine, both 2.0/3.0. Ensure they are configured/enabled in the BIOS. Did you load bios defaults after flashing the BIOS and then re-configure everything (recommended)? Check your monitor's USB upstream cable to make sure it is plugged in. Try both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 ports as well as rear ports and front ports if you have them connected. Test the hub on another computer/laptop (this way you know for sure where the issue is located).
> 
> GL!


Yeah thanks Laithan, it was the stupid cable. Reconnected it and now it's fine  Still rocking with 4960x @ 4 Ghz, 16 GB Dominator Platinum and Gigabyte 970 with your mod bios, same setup since 2014 but moved to a smaller (mATX!) case this year


----------



## nofearek9

thanks,i will overclock ,but with single vga so wanted to be sure if it will be needed for OC.thanks again.
btw this motherboard is HEAVY !!! and that box is LARGE!!!


----------



## nofearek9

whats the purpose of the second cpu back plate ,they have include in the box ?

shall i worry ?:


----------



## Calathea

nofearek9 said:


> whats the purpose of the second cpu back plate ,they have include in the box ?
> 
> shall i worry ?:



"The smaller plate is for LN2 use or aftermarket waterblocks that have their own backplate for mounting purposes." source https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?45879-Rampage-IV-Black-back-plate#post390151

The temps are from sensors which moste programs can't read correctly. Don't worry, this is normal and not the actual temp.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
You shouldn't be using hwmonitor anyway 
hwinfo is better see what it shows 
https://www.hwinfo.com/download.php
Don't use more than one monitoring software either.


----------



## nofearek9

thanks for your replys and your comments.i managed to make stable the 1680v2 47x100 ,this cpu dont like to touch the fsb (i am used with my x5660 xeon which could hit 200+ fsb)

btw are you windows info show you the real speed of your cpu or just the stock speed ?


----------



## Laithan

nofearek9 said:


> thanks for your replys and your comments.i managed to make stable the 1680v2 47x100 ,this cpu dont like to touch the fsb (i am used with my x5660 xeon which could hit 200+ fsb)
> 
> btw are you windows info show you the real speed of your cpu or just the stock speed ?


What voltages are you using?


----------



## nofearek9

1.4


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
System info always and will only will show based clocks not turbo clocks.


----------



## nofearek9

ic,thank you.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
No problem use hwinfo Sensors only to see all clocks minimum/ maximum and of course current plus a whole lot more 

https://www.hwinfo.com/download.php


----------



## nofearek9

is E5-4657L v2 https://ark.intel.com/content/www/u...processor-e5-4657l-v2-30m-cache-2-40-ghz.html compatible with rivbe ?
any chance to be unlocked ?


----------



## Laithan

nofearek9 said:


> is E5-4657L v2 https://ark.intel.com/content/www/u...processor-e5-4657l-v2-30m-cache-2-40-ghz.html compatible with rivbe ?
> any chance to be unlocked ?


Nope, it cannot be overclocked... maybe a little via bus but not worth it and 12 cores likely wouldn't O/C well anyway... That's a CPU made for a quad socket server board..

Try *E5-1650V2, E5-1660V2 or E5-1680V2* these are all unlocked and can overclock


----------



## nofearek9

thanks for the info.
where can i get some info about ram disk ? (how it works,is it worth it vs nvme ssd,anyone using it?)


----------



## BlackBeltPanda

Is Bluetooth in Windows 10 bugged with the RIVBE? I can transfer files over bluetooth but I can't connect to bluetooth headphones or speakers. They'll pair but won't connect. =/


----------



## gnasherrr

rip one of my csd87650q5d vrm mosfet is burnt. 12 rails short to ground : / i dont have a hot air station so i have to pay someone to repair it


----------



## Laithan

gnasherrr said:


> rip one of my csd87650q5d vrm mosfet is burnt. 12 rails short to ground : / i dont have a hot air station so i have to pay someone to repair it


 You could try Louis Rossmann


----------



## gnasherrr

Laithan said:


> You could try Louis Rossmann


yea not sure if it would be worth. i bought another one from china.


----------



## gnasherrr

anyone's got a monoblock for sale by any chance?


----------



## skupples

nofearek9 said:


> thanks for the info.
> where can i get some info about ram disk ? (how it works,is it worth it vs nvme ssd,anyone using it?)


RAMdisk is dead, at least as anything gamers or enthusiasts would wanna use, unless just for derping about. You can pretty much google up why. 

It's highly volatile, and the implementation on this board is low rent @ best.

much better off with dedicated storage solutions. 

Not to mention the fact you can only get 64gb of memory into this board? Not much of a ram disk


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> RAMdisk is dead, at least as anything gamers or enthusiasts would wanna use, unless just for derping about. You can pretty much google up why.
> 
> It's highly volatile, and the implementation on this board is low rent @ best.
> 
> much better off with dedicated storage solutions.
> 
> Not to mention the fact you can only get 64gb of memory into this board? Not much of a ram disk


With the 0801 bios you can get up to 128gb of RAM. 

But I do agree 100% with your other statements.


----------



## skupples

has anyone here tried it? I forgot about that tidbit... I'm curious what concessions you'd have to take on speed. 1333 on all banks


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> has anyone here tried it? I forgot about that tidbit... I'm curious what concessions you'd have to take on speed. 1333 on all banks


I wouldn't know as I have no need for that much RAM. I am at what I think is the sweet spot for RAM with 4 x 8gb strips at 32gb total.


----------



## skupples

yep, I had 64 but had to run it @ 1333 so I dropped down to 32 & was able to get 2133 @ 4.8? I forget now. It was still pretty weak for the supposed improved memory controller in Ivy series.


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> yep, I had 64 but had to run it @ 1333 so I dropped down to 32 & was able to get 2133 @ 4.8? I forget now. It was still pretty weak for the supposed improved memory controller in Ivy series.


You have a better chip than me. The best I was able to get was 4.5ghz w/32gb of RAM @ 2133mhz.


----------



## skupples

I could be wrong. It was NOT anything close to golden, unlike my 9700k that cruise controls @ 5.2


----------



## Laithan

I also had 64GB and then dropped down to 32GB and sold the set for the same reasons... 32GB is plenty (one day I know I will regret saying this lol)


----------



## skupples

plenty, for now


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> I could be wrong. It was NOT anything close to golden, unlike my 9700k that cruise controls @ 5.2


Yeah, I really wish I could upgrade now. This MB has been giving me issues with random black screens (that eventually freezes the entire ssytem) for just about 2 years now and nothing helps....


----------



## Laithan

:notontopi

RIVBE's younger sibling... that never was...


----------



## Figueiredo

Hi everyone. I'm still very much attached to my X79 system so I just upgraded my CPU and GPU to E5-1680v2 and RX 5700 XT.
Woud like to know what bios should I update to in order for this CPU to work. Also looking for the best bios for OC and Stability. Currently running 0403.

Thank you.


----------



## Laithan

Figueiredo said:


> Hi everyone. I'm still very much attached to my X79 system so I just upgraded my CPU and GPU to E5-1680v2 and RX 5700 XT.
> Woud like to know what bios should I update to in order for this CPU to work. Also looking for the best bios for OC and Stability. Currently running 0403.
> 
> Thank you.


0801 is IMO the best BIOS for this board and has been updated by the community to mitigate specture/meltdown etc. (microcode up to 42E ATM)
Not required for the E5 but recommended. 

See 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...ck-edition-owners-club-1552.html#post27943638

and 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...ck-edition-owners-club-1554.html#post27948090

and lastly (I flashed from the first post above, all is well)
https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...ck-edition-owners-club-1505.html#post26553596


:thumb:


----------



## Figueiredo

Laithan said:


> 0801 is IMO the best BIOS for this board and has been updated by the community to mitigate specture/meltdown etc. (microcode up to 42E ATM)
> Not required for the E5 but recommended.
> 
> See
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...ck-edition-owners-club-1552.html#post27943638
> 
> and
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...ck-edition-owners-club-1554.html#post27948090
> 
> and lastly (I flashed from the first post above, all is well)
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...ck-edition-owners-club-1505.html#post26553596
> 
> 
> :thumb:


Thank you Sir!
What exactly is this new microcode? Will it help with stability OC potential or something I can live without and just flash official Asus 0801 using EZ Flash in Bios?


----------



## Laithan

Figueiredo said:


> Thank you Sir!
> What exactly is this new microcode? Will it help with stability OC potential or something I can live without and just flash official Asus 0801 using EZ Flash in Bios?


Mitigation against CPU specific vulnerabilities
https://www.techpowerup.com/255545/...s-for-mds-vulnerabilities-unearthed-on-may-14


----------



## Redshift 91

dropping in to say "Hi". My RIVBE is still my daily driver, but my 3930k has degraded quite a bit and only accepts like 8GB of memory anymore. I might try dropping an ebay xeon in to get some more life out of it as a secondary machine.


----------



## nofearek9

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Xeon...976682&hash=item3fc20c3bf8:g:CmUAAOSwtOZbgElW


----------



## skupples

Redshift 91 said:


> dropping in to say "Hi". My RIVBE is still my daily driver, but my 3930k has degraded quite a bit and only accepts like 8GB of memory anymore. I might try dropping an ebay xeon in to get some more life out of it as a secondary machine.


cheers! They'be been great for those of us who didn't get wonky samples. Mine's still gaming every day w. 32gb @ 1886 (4930k & 1070) the person its on long term loan to has never used a faster more stable PC.


----------



## gnasherrr

benched a bit with the ek monoblock.


----------



## Madmaxneo

skupples said:


> cheers! They'be been great for those of us who didn't get wonky samples. Mine's still gaming every day w. 32gb @ 1886 (4930k & 1070) the person its on long term loan to has never used a faster more stable PC.


Nice! Mine is still running a 4930k @ 4.2 ghz with 4x8gb strips of ram and a 1070. Sometimes I up it to 4.4ghz and sometimes I leave it the base (3.4ghz I think). I still have the issue with the occasional random black screens due to some voltage regulation issue on the MB. A restart is quick enough to get it up and running again with the NVME drive...lol. 

Hopefully maybe in the next year I can upgrade to a more modern system.


----------



## Laithan

I honestly cannot come up with a solid justification to deviate from this platform. Newer platforms wouldn't really bring me much improvement (what 10% overall?) just bragging rights. There just isn't really anything that I do that demands more processing power, more PCIe lanes, etc.. IMO a E5-1680V2 is about the best deal going right now if you already have one of these boards and need a couple extra cores. These Xeons used to be $1000 and up for the longest time but now down to $200 bucks... sell your old CPU and it is cheap cheap.


----------



## gnasherrr

Yup. Mine is staying until trx40/trx80 gets out at least. I'm dailying at 1.5v 4.7ghz 1.30 2nd vvt/vccsa 2866 8*4gb 12-13-14-26-2t now. those are 24/7 speeds verified by prime95 and memtest. Actually I just found out yesterday that trefi is very relevant to memory latency and speed. The correct formula for it is ddr speed/2*7.8125. round up. Since the blck usually fluctuate a bit. You might need to figure out what blck/ddr speed the platform is actually running on most of the time and adjust accordingly. I managed to knock off 2ns from my aida64 latency by doing this. See my screenshot above


----------



## gnasherrr

my settings in case anyone wonders. 
Other small stuff that might matter in no particular order just off my brain. Blck skew -3/pcie skew -30(helps with stability when blck/strap ratio is high like mine try -2/-20 if not as extreme)
/extreme tweaking on(helps with aida64 speeds)
/dram clk period 5(apparently 5 is best for performance. Not verified tho)
/dram swizzeling bit both off(not verified if this helps but some articles suggest to have them off for stability)
/latency boundary nearest(I don't thk this does anything if you manually set up secondary and third timings)


----------



## MonnieRock

My RIVBE just died after serving me well since release day purchase.

Where do I find another one?

Ebay only has ones from China, are those authentic or some copy cat counterfeit?

Did not see any in the overclock.net marketplace.


Thanks,
Monnie


----------



## Laithan

I wouldn't think there is a big market for fake RIVBE boards... but I guess anything is possible. 

My advice.. never buy a listing that uses STOCK photos. You want actual hi-res pics of the board you are buying. This allows you to inspect for bent pins, corrosion, signs of dice/ln2 use, etc.. Since eBay changed the policy for returns when a product is defective, buyers no longer have to worry about getting stuck with international shipping fees for a return (when _*DEFECTIVE*_). IMO I would study the listing, look at seller feedback, message the seller and take a chance if you feel lucky . I never care if the listing says no returns because if it is defective you just open a case, ebay will allow the return at seller's expense anyway. 

There is this one in the USA but it is pricey and comes with memory... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-Rampa...631691?hash=item23cb7a17cb:g:kTQAAOSwfttd2xOL


----------



## MonnieRock

Laithan,

Thanks for the reply and advice !

The one on ebay is roughly $720. Might as well bite the bullet and change platforms for that price 

I noticed some of the China ones on aliexpress do not have "Asus" on the SB heatsink. Throws a flag up


Thank you,
Monnie


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Laithan said:


> I honestly cannot come up with a solid justification to deviate from this platform. Newer platforms wouldn't really bring me much improvement (what 10% overall?) just bragging rights. There just isn't really anything that I do that demands more processing power, more PCIe lanes, etc.. IMO a E5-1680V2 is about the best deal going right now if you already have one of these boards and need a couple extra cores. These Xeons used to be $1000 and up for the longest time but now down to $200 bucks... sell your old CPU and it is cheap cheap.


Hey man ! Still have mine . Had a code 55 usb short issue for years until I changed monitors ! The DP on the RX480 was the culprit . So back to HDMI . Now everything's back to normal I can gets me one 1680v2 ! :thumb:


----------



## Laithan

HOMECINEMA-PC said:


> Hey man ! Still have mine . Had a code 55 usb short issue for years until I changed monitors ! The DP on the RX480 was the culprit . So back to HDMI . Now everything's back to normal I can gets me one 1680v2 ! :thumb:


I couldn't be happier, even bought a RIVBE for my son's "new" computer. 1680v2's are getting cheap too.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> I honestly cannot come up with a solid justification to deviate from this platform. Newer platforms wouldn't really bring me much improvement (what 10% overall?) just bragging rights. There just isn't really anything that I do that demands more processing power, more PCIe lanes, etc.. IMO a E5-1680V2 is about the best deal going right now if you already have one of these boards and need a couple extra cores. These Xeons used to be $1000 and up for the longest time but now down to $200 bucks... sell your old CPU and it is cheap cheap.


How much of a difference in performance is there between the 1680v2 and the 4930k I have now? Apparently the average OC is about 4.3ghz and right now I run my 4930k @ 4.2 ghz.


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> How much of a difference in performance is there between the 1680v2 and the 4930k I have now? Apparently the average OC is about 4.3ghz and right now I run my 4930k @ 4.2 ghz.


From my experience going from an E5-1650v2 (essentially identical to your CPU) to the E5-1680v2 wasn't earth shattering but it depends on what you are doing. 

The additional cache on the 1680v2 will help a bit.. the additional (2) true cores of course will help if they are utilized. 1661 is roughly the score you will get with Cinebench with a decent overclock. This is of course a test that will take full advantage of the 4 additional cores (with hyperthreading enabled). A lot of the games now are taking advantage of more than 4 cores. Streaming while gaming, multi-tasking will all benefit from the additional cores. 

Overclocking usually isn't quite as good with the 1680v2 simply because it has 2 more cores to keep cool. If you have a decent chip and sufficient cooling it should hit 4.5Ghz on all cores without much trouble. I was able to get 4.6Ghz on all cores so far but I have not put a lot of time into it to be honest as I just want stability. Gains beyond 4.5Ghz are going to be minimal anyway. Having said that I could get my 1650v2 to 4.8Ghz all cores, benchmark stable only.

Lastly, I think the main reason to upgrade is longevity of the RIVBE. Without this CPU you are going to be limited to 6 cores if you want to overclock. The 1680v2 breathes fresh life into the platform bringing it more into x99 territory and it is also unlocked. Mainstream "desktop" CPUs are now 8-core/16-thread (9900#) and although this CPU is not as fast and cannot overclock as high, the reality is that the performance you will get at the end of the day will be RELATIVE to the 9900#... simply because Intel hasn't really significantly increased IPC and 8 cores/16 threads running at 4.5Ghz is not going to disappoint regardless of the architecture. Keep in mind all the lanes we get with x79.

Or, you could buy a brand new motherboard (equivalent to the RIVBE, so high end), all new memory (you'd need DDR4) a new CPU and maybe even a new cooler to get 8 cores/16 threads... so IMO this is a bargain when you can upgrade to 8 core/16 threads for around $150 total cost..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> From my experience going from an E5-1650v2 (essentially identical to your CPU) to the E5-1680v2 wasn't earth shattering but it depends on what you are doing.
> 
> The additional cache on the 1680v2 will help a bit.. the additional (2) true cores of course will help if they are utilized. 1661 is roughly the score you will get with Cinebench with a decent overclock. This is of course a test that will take full advantage of the 4 additional cores (with hyperthreading enabled). A lot of the games now are taking advantage of more than 4 cores. Streaming while gaming, multi-tasking will all benefit from the additional cores.
> 
> Overclocking usually isn't quite as good with the 1680v2 simply because it has 2 more cores to keep cool. If you have a decent chip and sufficient cooling it should hit 4.5Ghz on all cores without much trouble. I was able to get 4.6Ghz on all cores so far but I have not put a lot of time into it to be honest as I just want stability. Gains beyond 4.5Ghz are going to be minimal anyway. Having said that I could get my 1650v2 to 4.8Ghz all cores, benchmark stable only.
> 
> Lastly, I think the main reason to upgrade is longevity of the RIVBE. Without this CPU you are going to be limited to 6 cores if you want to overclock. The 1680v2 breathes fresh life into the platform bringing it more into x99 territory and it is also unlocked. Mainstream "desktop" CPUs are now 8-core/16-thread (9900#) and although this CPU is not as fast and cannot overclock as high, the reality is that the performance you will get at the end of the day will be RELATIVE to the 9900#... simply because Intel hasn't really significantly increased IPC and 8 cores/16 threads running at 4.5Ghz is not going to disappoint regardless of the architecture. Keep in mind all the lanes we get with x79.
> 
> Or, you could buy a brand new motherboard (equivalent to the RIVBE, so high end), all new memory (you'd need DDR4) a new CPU and maybe even a new cooler to get 8 cores/16 threads... so IMO this is a bargain when you can upgrade to 8 core/16 threads for around $150 total cost..


Sounds good. I honestly need to start saving to upgrade my system. My MB has had an issue for a few years now where the screens go black and the only way to fix it is for a hard restart. After all my troubleshooting (with tons of help) Nothing comes up as the culprit. So I am leaning towards some kind of voltage regulation issue on the MB. For a while I thought it was the video card (some nvidia error) but I have had 3 or 4 different cards in this system since my 980 and it did it for everyone, and I do not get that error in event viewer unless I leave the system alone for some time after the black screens. 
Either way the point is I really need a new MB and if I do that I might as well upgrade....lol. But that may not happen for quite some time now so the 1680v2 seems somewhat viable....lol.


----------



## z390e

Rampage IV Black with i7-4960x in my backup rig right now I am trying to really see what I can do with the OC. Using h100i Pro and 2x GTX 1080 SLI with evga hybrid waterblocks. Right now running at 4.6Ghz @ 1.4V which seems high voltage when I look at other peoples results but can run through Blender/3dMark without freezing, etc. I dont see temps over 70 C in HWMonitor either. 12415 Time Spy, nothing to brag about, wondering what others are pulling with this board in 2020. Great board btw, probably the best I have ever owned.


----------



## Laithan

z390e said:


> Rampage IV Black with i7-4960x in my backup rig right now I am trying to really see what I can do with the OC. Using h100i Pro and 2x GTX 1080 SLI with evga hybrid waterblocks. Right now running at 4.6Ghz @ 1.4V which seems high voltage when I look at other peoples results but can run through Blender/3dMark without freezing, etc. I dont see temps over 70 C in HWMonitor either. 12415 Time Spy, nothing to brag about, wondering what others are pulling with this board in 2020. Great board btw, probably the best I have ever owned.


Once you reach 1.4v you probably don't have any additional overclocking headroom. Having said that, 4.6Ghz (assuming on all cores) is not bad at all and quite good. Some can do 4.7/4.8 but you're close enough.


----------



## abvolt

I haven't been on this forum for a while my black board is still up & running just fine, glad to see so many of these great boards working. Just moved over to the Ryzen 9 3900x with a msi meg ace board very nice setup..enjoy guys


----------



## gecko991

Nice. I am thinking about it too.


----------



## z390e

Is everyone who had freezes using newer Nvidia cards like 1080 FE or later?


----------



## anti-clockwize

Hey, what SATA drivers are people using for windows 10?


----------



## Madmaxneo

z390e said:


> Is everyone who had freezes using newer Nvidia cards like 1080 FE or later?


No. I have the freezes on and have been using a 1070 now for a year plus. The freezes started with my gtx 980 card and even happened with my old 750ti I used as a temp card to see if the black screens happened on it.


anti-clockwize said:


> Hey, what SATA drivers are people using for windows 10?


There is a complete set of updated drives and BIOS (with NVME support) for this board a few pages back on this thread.


----------



## skupples

anti-clockwize said:


> Hey, what SATA drivers are people using for windows 10?


intel's stock drivers. N avoid the asmedia ports


----------



## deafboy

After nearly a decade officially off the x79 platform. Sold the RIVBE and Xeon to a fellow OCN'er

Still have the Sandy-Bridge Xeons in my NAS but feels like the end to an absolutely glorious era for me, love this board and this platform. As far as I'm concerned, still a totally valid and performant platform to this day

Now just trying to figure out what to do with my old 3930k. Thing was golden and feel like I should do something special with it.


----------



## Laithan

deafboy said:


> After nearly a decade officially off the x79 platform. Sold the RIVBE and Xeon to a fellow OCN'er
> 
> Still have the Ivy-Bridge Xeons in my NAS but feels like the end to an absolutely glorious era for me, love this board and this platform. As far as I'm concerned, still a totally valid and performant platform to this day
> 
> Now just trying to figure out what to do with my old 3930k. Thing was golden and feel like I should do something special with it.


Agree, especially with the special 8 core 1680v2. I have zero plans of upgrading any time soon. If I did anything it would be a new GPU or maybe this controller than is making me drool (14GB a sec max). It doesn't require bifurcation, has its own PLX chip. They list some X99 boards as being compatible, I don't know for sure if it would work on X79 but don't see why it would not... since folks here were able to add NVMe support to the BIOS...

Your 3930K might be a great Plex server (or whatever media server of your choice) as those (overclocked) clock speeds could benefit the trans-coding needs. Another idea would be to stand up a small ESXi box to spin up some VMs such as Pi-Hole, Steamcache, etc.. since they all don't use much CPU resources there would be plenty with 6 cores (since HT is effectively no longer utilized with ESXi).


----------



## deafboy

Yeah, I'll have the mull it over. I pretty much have all those services running on my NAS (dual 2670s) and it does everything I need without breaking a sweat so see how things go.

Hopefully that controller works for ya. I was tempted by the ASUS Hyper M.2 X16 V2 for a long time but hadn't heard of many people getting it working properly, even on x99.


----------



## z390e

Madmaxneo said:


> No. I have the freezes on and have been using a 1070 now for a year plus. The freezes started with my gtx 980 card and even happened with my old 750ti I used as a temp card to see if the black screens happened on it.


whats the general school of thought on it then? an issue with the board itself? the only thing I ever saw odd was it trying to ftp back to asus and you couldnt even block it in HOSTS file.


----------



## Clos

I"m probably going to sound ignorant but what are these 'freezes' with nvidia cards ya'll are talking about?


----------



## Laithan

deafboy said:


> Yeah, I'll have the mull it over. I pretty much have all those services running on my NAS (dual 2670s) and it does everything I need without breaking a sweat so see how things go.
> 
> Hopefully that controller works for ya. I was tempted by the ASUS Hyper M.2 X16 V2 for a long time but hadn't heard of many people getting it working properly, even on x99.


Looks like that one does require PCI-e bifurcation, likely why X99 doesn't work (isn't listed as supported either).


----------



## Laithan

Clos said:


> I"m probably going to sound ignorant but what are these 'freezes' with nvidia cards ya'll are talking about?


I personally have never experienced any freezing, seems like most have not. It is likely an isolated issue (isolated could still be more than one person).

I wonder if it is something like a VRM missing a pad or something... maybe it slid off at the factory during initial assembly.


----------



## Madmaxneo

z390e said:


> whats the general school of thought on it then? an issue with the board itself? the only thing I ever saw odd was it trying to ftp back to asus and you couldnt even block it in HOSTS file.


From what I remember of the few others that had the same issue is you either upgrade or deal with it. 
For now I deal with it cause my system runs pretty great except for that. I am trying to save money to upgrade but it's not that easy sometimes. Plus I need to find an upgrade with comparable features.

But I am not sure what exactly you mean with your last sentence. With that I am not even sure we are talking about the same thing...lol. My issue is I get random black screens every so often. It doesn't matter what I am doing or the time of day, sometimes it happens 3 or 4 times a day and others it doesn't happen for a week or two. It doesn't matter if I OC or underclock. So it is completely perplexing. I have tried different components (GPU, CPU, RAM) and even using different amounts of RAM, but nothing helps. It pasts all tests just fine and even gets some great benchmarks/stress test results. The only test that it doesn't work with anymore is the Intel Burn test for some reason but the only version of that I can find that is free is years old. 
The only thing I have noticed that seems to happen every time I get a black screen is that there is an update of some kind. This either through Windows or one of the other programs I have that start with boot. Every so often when resetting it after the black screens the USB ports to either my mouse or my keyboard don't work and I have to reset it again. But that is rare. 

So all in all it points to an issue with the MB. 

Back when I first started having this issue the board was still under warranty and ASUS said I could send it in. They didn't have any boards at the time to replace it but if they couldn't fix it they would find me a suitable replacement in their stock. Unfortunately I did not have a back up system at the time and did not want to be without my system for that long.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Clos said:


> I"m probably going to sound ignorant but what are these 'freezes' with nvidia cards ya'll are talking about?


If you have been a member of this forum thread for some time then you may remember me trying to get help with the issue I have of my system freezing and then getting black screens a while back. The prominent thing I noticed in event viewer when I had my system freezes was that an nvidia driver or dll had stopped and failed to restart. Some others had this same issue and they all figured it had something to do with nvidia. But what I discovered is that issue would only show up in event viewer if it wasn't reset right away and let sit for awhile. So that tells me is that the driver (or dll) had failed because of a system error and not because of the card or nvidia software. I seriously believe it has something to do with a power fluctuation to the PCIE slots. 

Before anyone asks, yes I did try different PCIE slots and there was no change.


----------



## anti-clockwize

Madmaxneo said:


> If you have been a member of this forum thread for some time then you may remember me trying to get help with the issue I have of my system freezing and then getting black screens a while back. The prominent thing I noticed in event viewer when I had my system freezes was that an nvidia driver or dll had stopped and failed to restart. Some others had this same issue and they all figured it had something to do with nvidia. But what I discovered is that issue would only show up in event viewer if it wasn't reset right away and let sit for awhile. So that tells me is that the driver (or dll) had failed because of a system error and not because of the card or nvidia software. I seriously believe it has something to do with a power fluctuation to the PCIE slots.
> 
> Before anyone asks, yes I did try different PCIE slots and there was no change.


Yeah I just started getting black screen crashes. Event viewer showing Critical driver issues with my HyperX Cloud headset.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

*Anyone got an idea of value for system below? :L*

Components: 
4930K
RIVEBE
32GB GSKILL TRIX 2400MHz
500GB 850 PRO
2x 780Ti Classified (1 Kingpin)
AX1200i

240 + 360 XSPC 50mm RADS
5 x Corsair SP120s
Other bits n pieces.

I'm thinking it might be time to try sell this rig. Has anyone in this thread sold their rig recently and know how much my rig might be worth?


----------



## z390e

What I was told is that Nvidia is aware of the issue with this mobo black screening and driver crashing.

What I wasn't told is who was at fault or what options it gave us. I also get an event viewer full of display driver crashing for 5+ hours or even a black screen. 

Its definitely something with Nvidia and the motherboard.


----------



## Laithan

z390e said:


> What I was told is that Nvidia is aware of the issue with this mobo black screening and driver crashing.
> 
> What I wasn't told is who was at fault or what options it gave us. I also get an event viewer full of display driver crashing for 5+ hours or even a black screen.
> 
> Its definitely something with Nvidia and the motherboard.


Well, I literally played 14 hours of RDR2 today... I have a 980Ti... not one crash/freeze... all cores running @ 4.5Ghz. It's not systemic, it's isolated.


----------



## z390e

Right so what I recall was...if you leave your PC connected to internet, throw up TCP view or some other software, and watch for extended time...you will see the board connect to an IP assigned to ASUS in taiwan. My recollection when I asked about it on their forums years ago was that they said it was connecting to check firmware or some such. Its the only thing that board did that no other board did. I may be mis-remembering another board but I dont think so.

But I agree about intermittent. Will run for 15+ hours hardcore no issues then black screen for no reason. Always Nvidia driver peeing the bed in the logs. Sometimes recovers, sometimes doesn't. Its definitely something in how the video card/mobo are communicating. Has anyone tried reverting drivers to way back when and seeing if that resolves? I pretty much gave up on it its the only issue I have with the board which has been a workhorse for years.


----------



## Madmaxneo

z390e said:


> What I was told is that Nvidia is aware of the issue with this mobo black screening and driver crashing.
> 
> What I wasn't told is who was at fault or what options it gave us. I also get an event viewer full of display driver crashing for 5+ hours or even a black screen.
> 
> Its definitely something with Nvidia and the motherboard.


That's the thing. If you catch the black screens right away and restart your system immediately you (more than likely) will not see the display driver crashing. The display driver crashing error does not show up for a bit when it first happens so that points to it not really being an nvidia driver issue. I seriously think it is some kind of voltage regulation issue with the PCIe slots or just a voltage regulation issue in general. 

FYI, I have had the same thing with more than 5 hrs of the display driver trying to reset but it crashed and that is cause I left my PC on and came back to it. When I am sitting at my desktop and this happens I restart my PC right away and there is no nvidia driver issue. This points to the fact that something else is causing the driver to fail and I believe that to be an issue with voltage to the PCIe slots (as I said above).


----------



## anti-clockwize

Madmaxneo said:


> That's the thing. If you catch the black screens right away and restart your system immediately you (more than likely) will not see the display driver crashing. The display driver crashing error does not show up for a bit when it first happens so that points to it not really being an nvidia driver issue. I seriously think it is some kind of voltage regulation issue with the PCIe slots or just a voltage regulation issue in general.
> 
> FYI, I have had the same thing with more than 5 hrs of the display driver trying to reset but it crashed and that is cause I left my PC on and came back to it. When I am sitting at my desktop and this happens I restart my PC right away and there is no nvidia driver issue. This points to the fact that something else is causing the driver to fail and I believe that to be an issue with voltage to the PCIe slots (as I said above).


I had PCIe Spread Spectrum : Disabled. I Enabled it and haven't had a crash since.


----------



## z390e

Madmaxneo said:


> This points to the fact that something else is causing the driver to fail and I believe that to be an issue with voltage to the PCIe slots (as I said above).


What I know for sure is you will have the issue if PC is on for 20+ hours and you have the Rampage IV black with an Nvidia card (tried GTX Titan X, GTX 1080, RTX 2070), it will eventually happen. Easy to reboot, sometimes board will force BIOS on black screen but usually won't.

Some of Nvidia's people say "Microsoft broke VT'd support on Asus implementations" and that its not even a Mobo or a GPU issue. I feel like someone could validate this with an older windows version but it seems like a lot of work to validate without a guaranteed anything if you do.

Both Nvidia and Asus forums are filled with thoughts on this. Seems specific to Asus/Nvidia specifically x79 boards.

I've seen others suggest that it is with the voltage and that its an issue with the voltage between GPU voltage and RAM Voltage. I.e. card is at 1410mhz and ram is at 1600mhz. 

Its the only issue I have with the board the thing is a monster beyond that. SLI'd cards no problems with heat everything else I love it. Im not getting rid of it lol.


----------



## Madmaxneo

anti-clockwize said:


> I had PCIe Spread Spectrum : Disabled. I Enabled it and haven't had a crash since.


So you don't overclock then? Regardless. At one point I thought it had something to do with that and I set everything to default and the black screens still happened.


z390e said:


> What I know for sure is you will have the issue if PC is on for 20+ hours and you have the Rampage IV black with an Nvidia card (tried GTX Titan X, GTX 1080, RTX 2070), it will eventually happen. Easy to reboot, sometimes board will force BIOS on black screen but usually won't.
> 
> Some of Nvidia's people say "Microsoft broke VT'd support on Asus implementations" and that its not even a Mobo or a GPU issue. I feel like someone could validate this with an older windows version but it seems like a lot of work to validate without a guaranteed anything if you do.
> 
> Both Nvidia and Asus forums are filled with thoughts on this. Seems specific to Asus/Nvidia specifically x79 boards.
> 
> I've seen others suggest that it is with the voltage and that its an issue with the voltage between GPU voltage and RAM Voltage. I.e. card is at 1410mhz and ram is at 1600mhz.
> 
> Its the only issue I have with the board the thing is a monster beyond that. SLI'd cards no problems with heat everything else I love it. Im not getting rid of it lol.


So I am wondering if I should just go amd then...lol


----------



## anti-clockwize

Madmaxneo said:


> So you don't overclock then? Regardless. At one point I thought it had something to do with that and I set everything to default and the black screens still happened.
> 
> 
> So I am wondering if I should just go amd then...lol


I do, but at the moment only CPU is oc'd and PCIE spread spectrum doesnt seem to make any difference to stability.


----------



## anti-clockwize

z390e said:


> What I know for sure is you will have the issue if PC is on for 20+ hours and you have the Rampage IV black with an Nvidia card (tried GTX Titan X, GTX 1080, RTX 2070), it will eventually happen. Easy to reboot, sometimes board will force BIOS on black screen but usually won't.
> 
> Some of Nvidia's people say "Microsoft broke VT'd support on Asus implementations" and that its not even a Mobo or a GPU issue. I feel like someone could validate this with an older windows version but it seems like a lot of work to validate without a guaranteed anything if you do.
> 
> Both Nvidia and Asus forums are filled with thoughts on this. Seems specific to Asus/Nvidia specifically x79 boards.
> 
> I've seen others suggest that it is with the voltage and that its an issue with the voltage between GPU voltage and RAM Voltage. I.e. card is at 1410mhz and ram is at 1600mhz.
> 
> Its the only issue I have with the board the thing is a monster beyond that. SLI'd cards no problems with heat everything else I love it. Im not getting rid of it lol.


Actually, now that you mention VTd, I did notice the black screens more frequently when i was working with VMs... I had a few very close together, one while I was starting a VM up (after a black screen), one when I had high cpu usage in the VM and in a little bit of usage in the host, and a couple others of a similar nature. I did get the feeling that running a VM + having a game open seemed to aggravate the issue...


----------



## Madmaxneo

anti-clockwize said:


> I do, but at the moment only CPU is oc'd and PCIE spread spectrum doesnt seem to make any difference to stability.


I don't OC anything other than my CPU. I did my GPU at one point but it was more of a hassle than not with the newer cards. 

One thing is I do remember when first attempting to OC I did not disable the PCIE spread spectrum and I had some blue screens. This was a few years and cpu's ago so maybe it will be fine without disabling it this time....


----------



## anti-clockwize

Madmaxneo said:


> I don't OC anything other than my CPU. I did my GPU at one point but it was more of a hassle than not with the newer cards.
> 
> One thing is I do remember when first attempting to OC I did not disable the PCIE spread spectrum and I had some blue screens. This was a few years and cpu's ago so maybe it will be fine without disabling it this time....


Yeah, well anyway, they are back, and in higher frequency. I've tried fresh driver installs (ddu) and VT-d disable etc. Think I'm going to try a different bios now. Have to wait a few days though, in the middle of some work. Can deal with a shutdown here n there, but not keen on getting delayed by complications that may occur during the flash...

edit: went ahead and flashed the "0802" nvme bios. we'll see how it goes.


----------



## Laithan

Not sure if this could be related but I don't have this issue as I mentioned before but one thing that could be different in my setup is the fact that I don't use any of the onboard controllers. I have an LSI Raid card for my storage.


----------



## Madmaxneo

anti-clockwize said:


> Yeah, well anyway, they are back, and in higher frequency. I've tried fresh driver installs (ddu) and VT-d disable etc. Think I'm going to try a different bios now. Have to wait a few days though, in the middle of some work. Can deal with a shutdown here n there, but not keen on getting delayed by complications that may occur during the flash...
> 
> edit: went ahead and flashed the "0802" nvme bios. we'll see how it goes.


Yeah, it didn't help me. I have been running that bios for close to a year (if not longer) now and it did not make any difference.


Laithan said:


> Not sure if this could be related but I don't have this issue as I mentioned before but one thing that could be different in my setup is the fact that I don't use any of the onboard controllers. I have an LSI Raid card for my storage.


That may possibly be the issue, but I doubt it. It would be nice if those who don't get these random freezes and black screens could report their setup. I still think it has something to do with voltage regulation on the MB itself. 

Do you watercool? If so do you watercool your MB or what? At one point I thought it may be some kind of overheating issue on the MB but disregarded it. 

Also, what are your bios settings? I ask because there may be a setting that those of us aren't changing (or are changing) which may be causing the issue.


----------



## Madmaxneo

anti-clockwize said:


> Yeah, well anyway, they are back, and in higher frequency. I've tried fresh driver installs (ddu) and VT-d disable etc. Think I'm going to try a different bios now. Have to wait a few days though, in the middle of some work. Can deal with a shutdown here n there, but not keen on getting delayed by complications that may occur during the flash...
> 
> edit: went ahead and flashed the "0802" nvme bios. we'll see how it goes.


I forgot about this. I noticed that every time I restart after having a freeze and then black screens I have an update of some kind. It's normally a windows update but I've gotten the freezes with updates from other programs also. I have it set so my updates don't happen automatically.


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> Yeah, it didn't help me. I have been running that bios for close to a year (if not longer) now and it did not make any difference.
> 
> 
> That may possibly be the issue, but I doubt it. It would be nice if those who don't get these random freezes and black screens could report their setup. I still think it has something to do with voltage regulation on the MB itself.
> 
> Do you watercool? If so do you watercool your MB or what? At one point I thought it may be some kind of overheating issue on the MB but disregarded it.
> 
> Also, what are your bios settings? I ask because there may be a setting that those of us aren't changing (or are changing) which may be causing the issue.


I do indeed have water blocks on my VRMs, chipset and CPU (and GPU).

I would be happy to share my bios settings but I honestly don't think there is anything special that I set. I do however turn off speedstep crap, I'm at full core speed constantly. I just found it to be more stable when pushing overclocks. I could save them to a file for you if you'd like.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> I do indeed have water blocks on my VRMs, chipset and CPU (and GPU).
> 
> I would be happy to share my bios settings but I honestly don't think there is anything special that I set. I do however turn off speedstep crap, I'm at full core speed constantly. I just found it to be more stable when pushing overclocks. I could save them to a file for you if you'd like.


I kind of feel like it may be a heat issue somewhere on the MB and that is why you don't get those system freezes. Heat on a MB is associated with higher voltages so it does make sense in a way.
I don't really need your bios settings cause the cooling thing makes sense.

EDIT: What cooling blocks do you use for the MB?


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> I kind of feel like it may be a heat issue somewhere on the MB and that is why you don't get those system freezes. Heat on a MB is associated with higher voltages so it does make sense in a way.
> I don't really need your bios settings cause the cooling thing makes sense.
> 
> EDIT: What cooling blocks do you use for the MB?


EK Blocks.

Have you removed the syncs from your VRMs to inspect the pads? It is very possible there is either degradation or an improper installation from the factory. If it is even slightly off it could be allowing hot spots to form.


----------



## anti-clockwize

Madmaxneo said:


> I forgot about this. I noticed that every time I restart after having a freeze and then black screens I have an update of some kind. It's normally a windows update but I've gotten the freezes with updates from other programs also. I have it set so my updates don't happen automatically.


This bios seems to have fixed it (also installed all the drivers from the driver pack in the same post as the bios a few pages back). Seems to have solved the issue, I'll give it another day or two before I call it fixed, but it's looking good.



Laithan said:


> EK Blocks.
> 
> Have you removed the syncs from your VRMs to inspect the pads? It is very possible there is either degradation or an improper installation from the factory. If it is even slightly off it could be allowing hot spots to form.


I have waterblocks on my VRMs also, and was experiencing the issue, not sure if that is the cause.


----------



## Madmaxneo

anti-clockwize said:


> This bios seems to have fixed it (also installed all the drivers from the driver pack in the same post as the bios a few pages back). Seems to have solved the issue, I'll give it another day or two before I call it fixed, but it's looking good.
> 
> 
> 
> I have waterblocks on my VRMs also, and was experiencing the issue, not sure if that is the cause.


Ok, so it isn't the waterblocks.

FYI, the freezes and black screens will come back. I can go a week or so sometimes. 

Like I said before the only thing that seems consistent with the freezes and subsequent black screens is that there is always an update when I restart after the black screens.


----------



## z390e

the black screens happen if you leave the PC on for 24 hours. Try it and see. If you leave your PC on for 48 hours and it didnt crash you probably have a fix.


----------



## Madmaxneo

z390e said:


> the black screens happen if you leave the PC on for 24 hours. Try it and see. If you leave your PC on for 48 hours and it didnt crash you probably have a fix.


For me it doesn't matter. Cause I put my system to sleep every night and some times I get 3 or 4 random crashes a day and sometimes not for up to two weeks max. During the week my system is on for about 8 hrs a day then on the weekends (including Fridays) about 16 hrs a day. Like I have said before the only thing that seems to be constant is software updates. It seems like every time I reset my system from the freezes/black screens there is an update needing to be done.


----------



## mitzaotomitza

Hello everyone
Flashing the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Bios with the 4804 version fails continuously . The flashing session looks OK all lights are flashing as things are heading the right way. When I enter the bios the old one still shows up.
Then I tried to flash the bios in DOS mode (using afudos) and I got errors reading the partition table. I pulled out RAMS ,except two sticks, removed GPU and the PCI nmve SSD, turned off power +clear CMOS and still same BIOS 0801 shows up. Please see the screen pictures.
The only thing that I did not disconnect is the ROG OC front panel and the CPU. Would that make a difference?

If I revert to the original Asus bios 0801, and start from there, I would not be able to boot since the OS is on the PCIE nvme SSD.
Any idea would be much appreciated.


Here is a list of hardware:
Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
CPU 3930K
DDR3 G.Skill Trident 48GB 2400MHZ
GPU Nvidia 1080ti
SSD Samsung 970EVO 2TB NVMe
PSU EVGA 850W
Asus ROG Front Base


----------



## Laithan

Not sure how 4804 is somehow newer than 0801 (latest BIOS for this motherboard, 8.01.).... If you search this thread several pages back there is a link for the latest BIOS with NVME support as well as drivers and even other firmware for MEI. It retains the name 0801 but it is modified with the 42E micocode update also.

You'll want to be flashing with flashback. There are instructions for that also near where the BIOS is posted.


----------



## Madmaxneo

mitzaotomitza said:


> Hello everyone
> Flashing the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Bios with the 4804 version fails continuously . The flashing session looks OK all lights are flashing as things are heading the right way. When I enter the bios the old one still shows up.
> Then I tried to flash the bios in DOS mode (using afudos) and I got errors reading the partition table. I pulled out RAMS ,except two sticks, removed GPU and the PCI nmve SSD, turned off power +clear CMOS and still same BIOS 0801 shows up. Please see the screen pictures.
> The only thing that I did not disconnect is the ROG OC front panel and the CPU. Would that make a difference?
> 
> If I revert to the original Asus bios 0801, and start from there, I would not be able to boot since the OS is on the PCIE nvme SSD.
> Any idea would be much appreciated.


As mentioned above the 0801 bios is the last bios ever put out for this board. But 0801 has been updated (like mentioned) with NVME support and the 42E microcode update. 

I am curious though, where did you find this 4804 bios?


----------



## Kimir

4804 bios is for the regular R4E, not the black edition.


----------



## Madmaxneo

mitzaotomitza said:


> Hello everyone
> Flashing the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Bios with the 4804 version fails continuously . The flashing session looks OK all lights are flashing as things are heading the right way. When I enter the bios the old one still shows up.
> Then I tried to flash the bios in DOS mode (using afudos) and I got errors reading the partition table. I pulled out RAMS ,except two sticks, removed GPU and the PCI nmve SSD, turned off power +clear CMOS and still same BIOS 0801 shows up. Please see the screen pictures.
> The only thing that I did not disconnect is the ROG OC front panel and the CPU. Would that make a difference?
> 
> If I revert to the original Asus bios 0801, and start from there, I would not be able to boot since the OS is on the PCIE nvme SSD.
> Any idea would be much appreciated.





Kimir said:


> 4804 bios is for the regular R4E, not the black edition.


Ahh, Now that makes sense. I figured the BIOS they mentioned was from a different MB.


----------



## z390e

For people who don't want to abandon the socket choice and want to end the black screens....have people found an alternative Motherboard thats actually available?

With a $1000 i7-4960x that I am loathe to abandon, Im seeing minimal options for an alternative board.

Has anyone found a good alternative to move to for just motherboard here in 2020?


----------



## Madmaxneo

z390e said:


> For people who don't want to abandon the socket choice and want to end the black screens....have people found an alternative Motherboard thats actually available?
> 
> With a $1000 i7-4960x that I am loathe to abandon, Im seeing minimal options for an alternative board.
> 
> Has anyone found a good alternative to move to for just motherboard here in 2020?


I looked and asked before but nothing in the 2011 socket seems to be even close to this board.


----------



## mitzaotomitza

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X79DELUXE/
Good question!
This ia the board I would go for. Any evidence of being better that Rampage IV black edition.


----------



## airisom2

Black screens? I haven't had one of those in a while. Usually happens when my nv driver crashes once every blue moon. If you get a black screen, take a look at your event viewer after reboot to see what's going on. 

Unstable cpu/ram overclocks can cause that as well. Test at stock clocks and see if it does it. If it does, then it could just be a driver crash or graphics card, especially if you're using RDNA cards.

As far as other boards goes, the R4BE is pretty much the cream of the crop. GB did a limited run of LN2-focused boards (super overclock? ud7? can't remember) that had an awesome vrm layout, but they're pretty much unobtanium now. Oh, the EVGA dark was a great board as well, but apparently had bios issues like most of their older boards.


----------



## Madmaxneo

airisom2 said:


> Black screens? I haven't had one of those in a while. Usually happens when my nv driver crashes once every blue moon. If you get a black screen, take a look at your event viewer after reboot to see what's going on.
> 
> Unstable cpu/ram overclocks can cause that as well. Test at stock clocks and see if it does it. If it does, then it could just be a driver crash or graphics card, especially if you're using RDNA cards.
> 
> As far as other boards goes, the R4BE is pretty much the cream of the crop. GB did a limited run of LN2-focused boards (super overclock? ud7? can't remember) that had an awesome vrm layout, but they're pretty much unobtanium now. Oh, the EVGA dark was a great board as well, but apparently had bios issues like most of their older boards.


Done all kinds of troubleshooting for my black screens and there seems to be no direct culprit. I've gone through like 4 different video cards and even went all the way down to one stick of RAM. It doesn't matter if I am OC'd or not, and I pass all stress tests and benchmarks with some pretty good scores. Event viewer was one of the first things I looked at and at first I thought it was the nv driver crashing, but if I restarted right after the black screens then there would be nothing in event viewer. Only after a few minutes of the black screens do I get the nvidia driver crashing error, so it's not that. The black screens are completely random and can sometimes happen two or three times a day and sometimes not for two weeks. It doesn't matter what I am doing be the PC idle or playing a game. I seriously believe it has something to do with voltage regulation on the MB. The only thing that seems to be common when it happens is there is usually an update, either from Windows or some other program, but that is not all the time. FYI, this has been going on for 2 years or more..... but it hasn't gotten any worse....lol.


----------



## airisom2

Now that I think about it some more, I had an issue with my evga p2 1200 when it was in eco mode. It would randomly black out even though everything was fine. Eventually got so bad that I couldn't use the psu with eco mode, but eco off worked fine. I ended up RMA'ing, giving it to a buddy, and getting this silverstone here. No problems since.


----------



## z390e

the black screen is a board issue with Nvidia cards. I also tried multiple cards, multiple RAM types, HD's etc etc. Its the board/Nvidia card 100%.


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> Done all kinds of troubleshooting for my black screens and there seems to be no direct culprit. I've gone through like 4 different video cards and even went all the way down to one stick of RAM. It doesn't matter if I am OC'd or not, and I pass all stress tests and benchmarks with some pretty good scores. Event viewer was one of the first things I looked at and at first I thought it was the nv driver crashing, but if I restarted right after the black screens then there would be nothing in event viewer. Only after a few minutes of the black screens do I get the nvidia driver crashing error, so it's not that. The black screens are completely random and can sometimes happen two or three times a day and sometimes not for two weeks. It doesn't matter what I am doing be the PC idle or playing a game. I seriously believe it has something to do with voltage regulation on the MB. The only thing that seems to be common when it happens is there is usually an update, either from Windows or some other program, but that is not all the time. FYI, this has been going on for 2 years or more..... but it hasn't gotten any worse....lol.





z390e said:


> the black screen is a board issue with Nvidia cards. I also tried multiple cards, multiple RAM types, HD's etc etc. Its the board/Nvidia card 100%.


I don't think we can say all RIVBE boards have a black screen issue nor that NIVDIA cards when used with this board have this issue. That may be your experience and I cannot contest that but I think we would need to look further to be honest. In my experience, I have installed 980 single, 980 SLI, 980Ti SLI and never once had a black screen issue (no jynx). I didn't try any Pascal/Turig but I will be getting a 3080Ti. I think this thread would be filled with these reports if the issue was with NVIDIA cards as a whole. I'm certainly not the only one with an NVIDIA card running stable. I am also _not_ using the following: *Onboard audio, Onboard controllers, Onboard Wifi, Onboard LAN.* I am actually building a 2nd PC also with a RIVBE using a 1650v2 and will be going with an NVIDIA card (not sure which one yet). It will be interesting to see if I get any black screens on the 2nd PC. I'll definitely report if I do. 

We can troubleshoot this issue but it is going to require a lot of effort and possibly money so it would be your call if you are willing. You can just simply start with everything that you can do that doesn't cost money (but will certainly cost time). It is most likely something with the motherboard itself whether it be a setting, an incompatibility, thermal issue or a defect. You guys have both tried a lot of things already with different peripheral hardware, the issues is random and doesn't corrleate to much else and these kinds of issues are usually thermals (not the CPU), bad boards or power supply related. 

IMO you can safely _*rule out*_:
* BIOS firmware version
* CPU type/core count
* Connected drives/peripherals
* Memory amount/Number of channels
* Overclocking
* Task specific


What remains that is possible to be the issue and how many of these have already been ruled out? If any have not been ruled out then you have some work queued up . 

*VRM thermal pads* - (also chipset) Over time they can dry/crack and deteriorate. I would say this is a likely culprit especially with the age of these boards. I plan to replace mine before I install the used board. It takes some time to remove the board and change the pads but doesn't cost much.

*Motherboard inspection* - Detailed. Cold solder joints, bad caps, corrosion. High humidity can cause this. 

*BIOS Setting* - Technically possible... especially memory settings. This includes disabling onboard components not needed. I can save my BIOS settings for you to view/try JIC I got lucky and ticked a box somewhere...

*Operating system* (I am still happily on Windows 7 here) - Have either of you tried to reinstall the O/S? You can just hook up another drive as a test to preserve your existing O/S... Can't hurt to run a fresh install/updates for a few days or a week to see what happens. I doubt it is an O/S specific issue but it could be a cluttered O/S issue. You could also try sfc /verifyonly (no changes) or sfc /scannow (fixes). Should not take more than a few hours or so to get running (mostly installing updates). You don't even need to activate the O/S.

*Drivers* - RIVBE drivers for Windows 10 might not be as robust.. Just another theoretic possibilty. You can sometimes find newer drivers for components if you figure out who makes them and grab the OEM drivers. ASUS' site isn't usually up to date. 

*Power supply* - These kinds of issues can very easily be caused by an unstable power supply. I would say this is a very likely culprit. It costs money to test this so I'd leave it for last. I always keep a known good PSU for testing purposes (that isn't in use). 


I might be forgetting something (others can also chimne in) but there's no more low hanging fruit left, it will be time to dig deeper. Until tested & confirmed they aren't ruled out. 

Best of luck.


----------



## z390e

Laithan said:


> I don't think we can say all RIVBE boards have a black screen issue nor that NIVDIA cards when used with this board have this issue.
> 
> We can troubleshoot this issue but it is going to require a lot of effort and possibly money so it would be your call if you are willing. You can just simply start with everything that you can do that doesn't cost money (but will certainly cost time). It is most likely something with the motherboard itself whether it be a setting, an incompatibility, thermal issue or a defect. You guys have both tried a lot of things already with different peripheral hardware, the issues is random and doesn't corrleate to much else and these kinds of issues are usually thermals (not the CPU), bad boards or power supply related.
> 
> IMO you can safely _*rule out*_:
> * BIOS firmware version
> * CPU type/core count
> * Connected drives/peripherals
> * Memory amount/Number of channels
> * Overclocking
> * Task specific
> 
> 
> What remains that is possible to be the issue and how many of these have already been ruled out? If any have not been ruled out then you have some work queued up .
> 
> *VRM thermal pads* - (also chipset) Over time they can dry/crack and deteriorate. I would say this is a likely culprit especially with the age of these boards. I plan to replace mine before I install the used board. It takes some time to remove the board and change the pads but doesn't cost much.
> 
> *Motherboard inspection* - Detailed. Cold solder joints, bad caps, corrosion. High humidity can cause this.
> 
> *BIOS Setting* - Technically possible... especially memory settings. This includes disabling onboard components not needed. I can save my BIOS settings for you to view/try JIC I got lucky and ticked a box somewhere...
> 
> *Operating system* (I am still happily on Windows 7 here) - Have either of you tried to reinstall the O/S? You can just hook up another drive as a test to preserve your existing O/S... Can't hurt to run a fresh install/updates for a few days or a week to see what happens. I doubt it is an O/S specific issue but it could be a cluttered O/S issue. You could also try sfc /verifyonly (no changes) or sfc /scannow (fixes). Should not take more than a few hours or so to get running (mostly installing updates). You don't even need to activate the O/S.
> 
> *Drivers* - RIVBE drivers for Windows 10 might not be as robust.. Just another theoretic possibilty. You can sometimes find newer drivers for components if you figure out who makes them and grab the OEM drivers. ASUS' site isn't usually up to date.
> 
> *Power supply* - These kinds of issues can very easily be caused by an unstable power supply. I would say this is a very likely culprit. It costs money to test this so I'd leave it for last. I always keep a known good PSU for testing purposes (that isn't in use).



I do agree that it seems not ALL boards have the issue. But I'd bet those who dont are the exceptions.

Outside of replacing the VRM thermal pads (thermals are fine though, even when it black screens) or trying Linux I have tried every single suggestion here.

Different BIOS versions = still black screen.
Different OS versions = still black screen.
Different drivers = still black screen.
Different RAM vendors = still black screen.
Different RAM amounts = still black screen.
Different PSU = still black screen.
Different GPUs = still black screen.
Different monitors = still black screen.
Different connectors for monitors = still black screen.
Full HD format and reinstall = still black screen.
Stock speeds vs OC = still black screen.


The two constants in this entire testing are my Rampage IV Black and the i7-4960x. Every. Single. Complaint. I have seen is about the Rampage IV and Nvidia driver crashing and not recovering. 

I've got 4 other PC's running flawlessly except for a tanked GTX Titan X (Maxwell) card, I feel pretty confident that I've tried just about everything I can.

I gave up at this point its in the back room. Switched to the i7-4770 with an RTX 2070 for stability. No crashes/black screens in 128 hours. Which hasn't happened on my Rampage IV black since the black screens began. There has to be an edge case on this. Nvidia support told me ASUS/Nvidia is aware of this issue as well.


----------



## Wollowon

How to lower chassis fan speed to below 60% ? , When I try to lower It s saying invalid , require bios mod ?

Note : I don t want use software fan control.


----------



## MonnieRock

Has anyone used a 

ASROCK HYPER QUAD M.2 CARD

or 

ASUS Hyper M.2 X16 PCIe 3.0 X4 Expansion Card V2 

for the NVMe in the RIVBE?

What are you guys / gals using for the PCIe adapter card?

Does the RIVBE with modded BIOS communicate directly to the CPU or it goes through the PCH first?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> I don't think we can say all RIVBE boards have a black screen issue nor that NIVDIA cards when used with this board have this issue. That may be your experience and I cannot contest that but I think we would need to look further to be honest. In my experience, I have installed 980 single, 980 SLI, 980Ti SLI and never once had a black screen issue (no jynx). I didn't try any Pascal/Turig but I will be getting a 3080Ti. I think this thread would be filled with these reports if the issue was with NVIDIA cards as a whole. I'm certainly not the only one with an NVIDIA card running stable. I am also _not_ using the following: *Onboard audio, Onboard controllers, Onboard Wifi, Onboard LAN.* I am actually building a 2nd PC also with a RIVBE using a 1650v2 and will be going with an NVIDIA card (not sure which one yet). It will be interesting to see if I get any black screens on the 2nd PC. I'll definitely report if I do.
> 
> We can troubleshoot this issue but it is going to require a lot of effort and possibly money so it would be your call if you are willing. You can just simply start with everything that you can do that doesn't cost money (but will certainly cost time). It is most likely something with the motherboard itself whether it be a setting, an incompatibility, thermal issue or a defect. You guys have both tried a lot of things already with different peripheral hardware, the issues is random and doesn't corrleate to much else and these kinds of issues are usually thermals (not the CPU), bad boards or power supply related.
> 
> IMO you can safely _*rule out*_:
> * BIOS firmware version
> * CPU type/core count
> * Connected drives/peripherals
> * Memory amount/Number of channels
> * Overclocking
> * Task specific
> 
> 
> What remains that is possible to be the issue and how many of these have already been ruled out? If any have not been ruled out then you have some work queued up .
> 
> *VRM thermal pads* - (also chipset) Over time they can dry/crack and deteriorate. I would say this is a likely culprit especially with the age of these boards. I plan to replace mine before I install the used board. It takes some time to remove the board and change the pads but doesn't cost much.
> 
> *Motherboard inspection* - Detailed. Cold solder joints, bad caps, corrosion. High humidity can cause this.
> 
> *BIOS Setting* - Technically possible... especially memory settings. This includes disabling onboard components not needed. I can save my BIOS settings for you to view/try JIC I got lucky and ticked a box somewhere...
> 
> *Operating system* (I am still happily on Windows 7 here) - Have either of you tried to reinstall the O/S? You can just hook up another drive as a test to preserve your existing O/S... Can't hurt to run a fresh install/updates for a few days or a week to see what happens. I doubt it is an O/S specific issue but it could be a cluttered O/S issue. You could also try sfc /verifyonly (no changes) or sfc /scannow (fixes). Should not take more than a few hours or so to get running (mostly installing updates). You don't even need to activate the O/S.
> 
> *Drivers* - RIVBE drivers for Windows 10 might not be as robust.. Just another theoretic possibilty. You can sometimes find newer drivers for components if you figure out who makes them and grab the OEM drivers. ASUS' site isn't usually up to date.
> 
> *Power supply* - These kinds of issues can very easily be caused by an unstable power supply. I would say this is a very likely culprit. It costs money to test this so I'd leave it for last. I always keep a known good PSU for testing purposes (that isn't in use).
> 
> 
> I might be forgetting something (others can also chimne in) but there's no more low hanging fruit left, it will be time to dig deeper. Until tested & confirmed they aren't ruled out.
> 
> Best of luck.


Sorry but I have honestly done all of that above. I have been getting these black screens now for about 2 years (maybe more) and they seem to be completely random and not affected by anything you mention above. All I have tested it with is nvidia (3 or 4 different ones at this point) cards so there is that but I seriously doubt that is the issue.


----------



## Madmaxneo

z390e said:


> I do agree that it seems not ALL boards have the issue. But I'd bet those who dont are the exceptions.
> 
> 
> 
> The two constants in this entire testing are my Rampage IV Black and the i7-4960x. Every. Single. Complaint. I have seen is about the Rampage IV and Nvidia driver crashing and not recovering.
> 
> I've got 4 other PC's running flawlessly except for a tanked GTX Titan X (Maxwell) card, I feel pretty confident that I've tried just about everything I can.
> 
> I gave up at this point its in the back room. Switched to the i7-4770 with an RTX 2070 for stability. No crashes/black screens in 128 hours. Which hasn't happened on my Rampage IV black since the black screens began. There has to be an edge case on this. Nvidia support told me ASUS/Nvidia is aware of this issue as well.


Same here as you say, only I go one further and it's been through 3 different CPUs. Also, have you caught the black screens when they happen and start the PC soon after? If so you may notice that the nvidia driver crashing is not in event viewer. I believe that event is caused from of loss of power to the PCIE lanes or some other kind of fault to the PCIE lanes which is why it doesn't show up at first.


----------



## Madmaxneo

MonnieRock said:


> Has anyone used a
> 
> ASROCK HYPER QUAD M.2 CARD
> 
> or
> 
> ASUS Hyper M.2 X16 PCIe 3.0 X4 Expansion Card V2
> 
> for the NVMe in the RIVBE?
> 
> What are you guys / gals using for the PCIe adapter card?
> 
> Does the RIVBE with modded BIOS communicate directly to the CPU or it goes through the PCH first?


I'm sure it will work fine. I have been using a PCIE NVME adapter in my system for over a year now and it runs great (minus the other issue I have...LOL).


----------



## z390e

So since we know its board specific but not universal, what are the setups for people who are not geting the black screens?


----------



## Laithan

z390e said:


> So since we know its board specific but not universal, what are the setups for people who are not geting the black screens?


*Listing only what is physcially connected to the RIVBE:*
AX1500i PSU
E5-1680V2 CPU (1.4v, all cores 4.4Ghz, no speedstep) / Hyperthreading enabled
32GB G.Skill RipJaw-Z (4x8) MEM (F3, 19200)
(2) Gigabyte GTX 980Ti GPUs
LSI MegaRAID 9260-8i SATA
ASUS 10G NIC PCI-e

EK Blocks on the VRMs, Chipset and CPU

Onboard LAN disabled
Onboard WiFi/Bluetooth disabled
Onboard Supreme FX disabled
OC Panel not installed
Most fan headers not used (have an external fan controller)

All USB 2.0/3.0 controllers/ports enabled and used

Custom 0801 from this thread (WannaBeOCer)
Updated Intel MEI firmware

Windows 7 Ultimate x64


----------



## Laithan

Madmaxneo said:


> Sorry but I have honestly done all of that above. I have been getting these black screens now for about 2 years (maybe more) and they seem to be completely random and not affected by anything you mention above. All I have tested it with is nvidia (3 or 4 different ones at this point) cards so there is that but I seriously doubt that is the issue.


You actually replaced the VRM thermal pads? It is admitedly something nobody wants to do and can be a lot of work especially if water-cooled.. but IMO is the most likely culprit.

Dry/cracked pad (explains why it happened over time), Mis-aligned/poorly installed (explains why it could happen from day 1).

At the end of the day IF that is the problem, it is a cheap fix to give the board a whole new life...

Throttling is usually a result of VRMs overheating when they are all overheating but I would think a black screen could be a result of just one mosfet overheating and the board not being able to sense that since a small hotspot only.

Monitoring temps (not sure if T1/T2 are the VRMs or not w/HWINFO64) would not necessarily show this issue either, a hot spot could be very small and outside the range of the sensor.

Can you stick a fan pointing directly at the VRMs just for giggles?

<SHRUG>
Just trying to help
:h34r-smi


----------



## z390e

Thanks Laithan. Are any users *with* black screens using Gigabyte cards?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

*http://www.bios-chip24.com/epages/63...Products/20311*

z390e, you could try another bios chip. Put in a new cmos battery too. Motherboards act funny sometimes, new bios chip can solve it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> You actually replaced the VRM thermal pads? It is admitedly something nobody wants to do and can be a lot of work especially if water-cooled.. but IMO is the most likely culprit.
> 
> Dry/cracked pad (explains why it happened over time), Mis-aligned/poorly installed (explains why it could happen from day 1).
> 
> At the end of the day IF that is the problem, it is a cheap fix to give the board a whole new life...
> 
> Throttling is usually a result of VRMs overheating when they are all overheating but I would think a black screen could be a result of just one mosfet overheating and the board not being able to sense that since a small hotspot only.
> 
> Monitoring temps (not sure if T1/T2 are the VRMs or not w/HWINFO64) would not necessarily show this issue either, a hot spot could be very small and outside the range of the sensor.
> 
> Can you stick a fan pointing directly at the VRMs just for giggles?
> 
> <SHRUG>
> Just trying to help
> :h34r-smi


Oops, sorry I never replaced the VRM pads but I have monitored the temps and they usually do not get that hot. I have thought about extending my water coolong to those areas but the only current option I have for that would cause me to replace my Heatkiller IV block for my CPU and I am not that willing to do that right now. The Heatkiller IV block is simply awesome. I have either a 120mm or a 140mm fan on the inner fan mount for my phantom 820 case that blows directly acrosss the board which helps with keeping the vrms cool.

Note that I swore I had responded to your reply like two days ago but I do not see it now so I had to post this one.....


----------



## z390e

Anyone who isnt getting black screens used the Nvidia displayport updater?

https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/drivers/nv-uefi-update-x64/

Looking through my notes my last change before issues was installing that.


----------



## Laithan

z390e said:


> Anyone who isnt getting black screens used the Nvidia displayport updater?
> 
> https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/drivers/nv-uefi-update-x64/
> 
> Looking through my notes my last change before issues was installing that.


I applied that update on both my GPUs also.


----------



## Laithan

Is there any reason a 2080Ti would not post on the RIVBE? UEFI related? I picked up a used one and I'm not getting any video... methinks it's bad


----------



## z390e

Laithan said:


> Is there any reason a 2080Ti would not post on the RIVBE? UEFI related? I picked up a used one and I'm not getting any video... methinks it's bad


what error is the board showing


----------



## Laithan

z390e said:


> what error is the board showing


It hangs on *34*. All 4 switches are in the ON position. If I swap the GPU with a 980Ti it will post.

https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?34846-Error-Code-34


----------



## z390e

what BIOS are you on? did you update bios before putting the 2080ti in?

I know they can use the 2070, so newer gpus should be fine, I had one in mine for a bit


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Maybe try hdmi if using DP. Try different ports from the card. Could also try clearing cmos. I have a 2070 working fine with my RIVBE.


----------



## z390e

great point @MrTOOSHORT also probably should run display port update tool if using DP before connecting to the 2080ti via DP

RIVBE would black screen if connected via DP and not using that tool sometimes


----------



## Laithan

z390e said:


> what BIOS are you on? did you update bios before putting the 2080ti in?
> 
> I know they can use the 2070 I had one in mine for a bit


Yes I now see some others with a 2080Ti on X79 also. This board has the 0801 installed already although I'm not sure if it is the stock one of the MOD BIOS from here. I could always try flashing the BIOS but it technically already has the latest BIOS just maybe not the latest microcodes.



MrTOOSHORT said:


> Maybe try hdmi if using DP. Try different ports from the card. Could also try clearing cmos. I have a 2070 working fine with my RIVBE.


I am using HDMI right now. I also tried a 2nd monitor with HDMI. Then I also tried a DP -> DVI -> HDMI so I could test the display port and got the same thing.

The seller swears it was working..


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Ok maybe clean the slot and cards teeth with isopropyl alcohol and tooth brush... not sure what else.


----------



## Laithan

I just flashed the 42E microcode, the latest 0801 BIOS and I still don't get any video but now the code hangs on *A3*. If I put the old GPU back it boots right up. Must be a bad GPU..


----------



## z390e

will the GPU pass POST in another mobo?


----------



## Laithan

z390e said:


> will the GPU pass POST in another mobo?


My only other PC that could handle it has my (2) 980Ti's on blocks... can't exactly test with that easily 

I just tried another power supply and same thing... time to send it back 

Thanks for the help all


----------



## Madmaxneo

z390e said:


> great point @MrTOOSHORT also probably should run display port update tool if using DP before connecting to the 2080ti via DP
> 
> RIVBE would black screen if connected via DP and not using that tool sometimes


I use display port on my 1070 and it seems to work fine. I do get system freezes that lead to black screens every so often even though my other screen is connected via USB. 

But seriously, the graphics card should not matter as long as it supports the PCIe slots the RIVBE has, so you should be perfectly fine.


----------



## z390e

Madmaxneo said:


> I do get system freezes that lead to black screens every so often even though my other screen is connected via USB.


As documented ad nauseam in this thread clearly its a board issue with the black screeens sadly. Not GPU specific either.


----------



## Madmaxneo

z390e said:


> As documented ad nauseam in this thread clearly its a board issue with the black screeens sadly. Not GPU specific either.


Yeah, I know. I just keep hoping I will find an answer other than just the board. I am saving for a new system, well a MB, RAM, and CPU. Everything else can come from my current build.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am looking to upgrade. Is there any specific forum dedicated to this sort of thing or should I create my own thread? Right now I am looking at the Asus ROG STRIX Z390-E GAMING paired with the i9 9900k, it is a bit expensive though it does have everything I am looking for. But are there better less costly choices? These are the questions I am pondering. I think I will go ahead and create a new thread somewhere on this.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Madmaxneo said:


> I am looking to upgrade. Is there any specific forum dedicated to this sort of thing or should I create my own thread? Right now I am looking at the Asus ROG STRIX Z390-E GAMING paired with the i9 9900k, it is a bit expensive though it does have everything I am looking for. But are there better less costly choices? These are the questions I am pondering. I think I will go ahead and create a new thread somewhere on this.


Just wait for a little bit more and check out the new 10900k that's coming out.


----------



## Madmaxneo

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Just wait for a little bit more and check out the new 10900k that's coming out.


Sounds like it might be awesome. But that would be a bit more expensive and then I would need a newer MB which would also be a bit more expensive. Here is a link to my new thread.


----------



## z390e

Madmaxneo said:


> I am looking to upgrade. Is there any specific forum dedicated to this sort of thing or should I create my own thread? Right now I am looking at the Asus ROG STRIX Z390-E GAMING paired with the i9 9900k, it is a bit expensive though it does have everything I am looking for. But are there better less costly choices? These are the questions I am pondering. I think I will go ahead and create a new thread somewhere on this.


I have this exact setup and I have yet to run into anyone in my gaming sessions getting better FPS than me.


----------



## Madmaxneo

z390e said:


> I have this exact setup and I have yet to run into anyone in my gaming sessions getting better FPS than me.


Yeah, I figured it would kick ass....


----------



## Laithan

I have a 2080Ti FTW3 Ultra coming so it will be a good test for the RIVBE to see if IVY-e becomes the bottleneck. 8 cores but I can't get even close to 5Ghz (4.4-4.5 max). Could the RIVBE have finally met it's match?


----------



## nofearek9

waiting for results but i dont think you will have bottleneck with 1680 even with demanding titles like battlefield V.


----------



## z390e

Laithan said:


> I have a 2080Ti FTW3 Ultra coming so it will be a good test for the RIVBE to see if IVY-e becomes the bottleneck. 8 cores but I can't get even close to 5Ghz (4.4-4.5 max). Could the RIVBE have finally met it's match?


I got my i7-4960x up to 4.6 but above that I couldnt make happen and I didnt feel like really going crazy working for a better OC

if the board had not started black screening I probably wouldnt have upgraded


----------



## Laithan

I have an interesting problem.. perhaps some of you may have experienced/heard of this. 

I now have (2) RIVBE systems. I finally got the new case in for the 2nd RIVBE build, got the assembly done & cloned the O/S. I never used the wireless option on my 1st build because I have a LAN connection there so this was my first time ever using the onboard Wifi. I enabled it in the BIOS and then booted into windows. I already had the driver installed so it detected the Wifi and loaded the driver without issue. It shows as working properly and I can adjust all the settings. When I try to use the adapter, I noticed the adapter was stuck on _*disabled*_. I went ahead and enabled the adapter but it just keeps going back to disabled. It goes through the motions as if I am enabling it but then it just stays disabled again. I have tried using the driver in the RIVBE driver pack (updated from ASUS' site) as well as using an old Broadcom driver and I get the same adapter stuck in a disabled state. Almost like there is a hardware switch somewhere... 

What am I missing? Any ideas? I figure if the WLAN adapter was bad it probably wouldn't be detected, load a driver and show as working properly...

Ty in advance


----------



## Madmaxneo

Wait, when did the ROG RAMPAGE VI EXTREME OMEGA come out? 

It is such a sweet board but oh so very expensive. The new CPUs for it are pretty expensive also but are they that much better than cpus like the i9-9900k?


----------



## nofearek9

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-ROG-RAMPAGE-IV-BLACK-EDITION-X79-LGA-2011-NO-RESERVE/324149606733


----------



## Madmaxneo

nofearek9 said:


> https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-ROG-RAMPAGE-IV-BLACK-EDITION-X79-LGA-2011-NO-RESERVE/324149606733


What kind of condition is the board in?
Any chance you could show images of the other tabs of CPU-Z?


----------



## nofearek9

not mine ,just was it on ebay posted in case anyone here interested.


----------



## Madmaxneo

nofearek9 said:


> not mine ,just was it on ebay posted in case anyone here interested.


I made a bid but may need to retract it cause I am going to go with a new MB/system entirely.


On a related note the Gigabyte support guy I was emailing back and forth is a moron. I asked their support about the high end MB they have which goes for over $1000 because I was thinking of upgrading from my old x79 system. They responded that the MB I was asking about will not work with my current CPU. 

No **** Sherlock! I replied that I knew that and will not be using my 4930k from my old system and am looking to upgrade my entire system. Their reply to my reply was basically to remind me that I would need to upgrade my CPU and gave me links to which I have already visited to tell me about the board. 

I just wanted to know how they justified the board costing that much.

I probably have the best MB for the socket 2011 platform and it is meant for OCing and I've been running it now for quite a few years. You'd think that I probably have a bit more understanding of how it all works together than the common noob.....SMH


----------



## nofearek9

asus > *


----------



## Laithan

Laithan said:


> I have an interesting problem.. perhaps some of you may have experienced/heard of this.
> 
> I now have (2) RIVBE systems. I finally got the new case in for the 2nd RIVBE build, got the assembly done & cloned the O/S. I never used the wireless option on my 1st build because I have a LAN connection there so this was my first time ever using the onboard Wifi. I enabled it in the BIOS and then booted into windows. I already had the driver installed so it detected the Wifi and loaded the driver without issue. It shows as working properly and I can adjust all the settings. When I try to use the adapter, I noticed the adapter was stuck on _*disabled*_. I went ahead and enabled the adapter but it just keeps going back to disabled. It goes through the motions as if I am enabling it but then it just stays disabled again. I have tried using the driver in the RIVBE driver pack (updated from ASUS' site) as well as using an old Broadcom driver and I get the same adapter stuck in a disabled state. Almost like there is a hardware switch somewhere...
> 
> What am I missing? Any ideas? I figure if the WLAN adapter was bad it probably wouldn't be detected, load a driver and show as working properly...
> 
> Ty in advance


I just figured it out, it was the WLAN AutoConfig service not running.


----------



## deafboy

With the CPU/mobo sold, going to list my Corsair Dominator Platinums (4x8GB 1600) here soon. Figured I'd post here before I open the thread first to give you guys a chance as a little thanks for the help over the years.

Miss this mobo, absolutely amazing.


----------



## Laithan

So... I have been playing around with my Samsung 950 Pro and I am pretty impressed with the single drive performance (NVMe). I successfully got it to work in the RIVBE (Modded 0801 BIOS), including being _*bootable*_ AND running in Windows 7 :thumb: (not bad since neither this motherboard nor my O/S supports NVMe natively). 

but that's not what I wanted to focus on... What I am really concerned with is the fastest speed I can obtain on the RIVBE. The Samsung 950 PRO is fast but not enough to really compare to some other RAID 0 implementations so it has dropped out of the race. 

My existing storage is using some REALLY REALLY OLD, but still really fast SSD drives in RAID 0. I actually have (6) of them in RAID 0 (all data is backed up elsewhere). They are the Mushkin Chronos Deluxe w/Toshiba Toggle Nand. I am sure something like the 860 Pro would be much faster but nevertheless impressive for drives made in 2011! I have used an LSI 9260-8i for the longest time but they are just way too old right now.. They are only PCI-e 2.0 also... but were great for spinning disks. I decided to grab an LSI 9271-8i because they are PCI-e 3.0 and also handle SSD drives much better. I wanted to put this to the test and I was amazed at how much better JUST A CONTROLLER can make. These tests are on the same system, same drives and same O/S just one is with the 9260 and the other with 9271. Unfortunately the 9260 tests are from years ago so the ATTO versions do not match but the tests are basically doing the same thing. The Anvil performance is interesting also, beating the 9260 in all but one test. It looks like I'm fully saturating the SATA6 interface 

So for $85, IMO the LSI 9271-8i was an impressive upgrade for my RIVBE, just wish I knew how much a controller change could have made a long time ago  
:h34r-smi


----------



## nofearek9

about samsung 950 pro ,is the one of the few nvme ssds you can boot with legacy bios,i use it in my RIVBE with latest asus bios,legacy booted not uefi.

you got great results!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

nofearek9 said:


> about samsung 950 pro ,is the one of the few nvme ssds you can boot with legacy bios,i use it in my RIVBE with latest asus bios,legacy booted not uefi.
> 
> you got great results!!!


What legacy bios (non UEFI) do you use? I have never heard of this board having a legacy (non UEFI) bios)


----------



## nofearek9

sorry wrong wording,i am using the latest asus bios and booting with legacy mode.
samsung 950 pro work in my X58 setup as well.


----------



## tcclaviger

Regarding NVME - BIOS hack + SN550 1tb works great! Screenshot is after about a year of use with nothing done, while not the fastest drive out there it's certainly fast enough. Fast in different areas to your raid array. Be cautious with those Cronos drives, I had 2 randomly die on me.

Black/Crashing R4BE Issues I've encountered over the years -

They exist, BUT, they are not always present. Certain software/BIOS settings trigger it on these boards. I have isolated the problems to a few things:

Nvidia drivers - Some of the 2019 releases caused random black screens. Happened on desktop with basically no load, happened while gaming, happened while idle. Driver update to most recent has completely fixed it.

Corsair Icue - Can, but doesn't always, cause random black screens. More of a slow-roll system crash, first the focused window would become non-responsive, then the system would slowly die, 1 thing after the next hanging until it was totally hung, no windows blue screen. Well documented on X79, Corsair can't be bothered, just like all the other Icue bugs. 

Speedstep + C-State + Offset overclocking - When getting near the peak of the voltage/speed tipping point, for my chip, 4600 is tipping point after that I need to dump tons of voltage, if I let the PC idle and go into it's deepest non-sleep/non-hibernate power state, it won't wake up. Just dead, no errors reported in any logs. I believe this is a hard hang at 1200mhz when it occurs, voltage at that point is pretty low, as intended, but it doesn't come back. I have found no cure for this other than back off the overclock by 100mhz, or, disabling speedstep/c-states.

VRM limitations - through the years, experimenting with different LLC/VRM settings, I have found that there is a point, where the PC will simply insta-power off. Some sort of circuit protection, despite temperatures. I am under an EK full motherboard block, 11x120 radiator space, and the VRMs/CPU stay quite cool, even at extreme loads. With cpu at 70c during Prime small FFTs 26.6, 4.75ghz, 1.45vcore I can be stable if I UP the switching frequency of the CPU VRM and voltage to 10v. Extreme balance and 180% load with high llc. These settings stay alive. If I back off to what should be more gentle to the VRM, auto voltage/auto frequency or 450, and T.Probe vrm balance, it will hard reset during extreme loads. This reset only occurs when CPU package power = 180w +. \\\These are NOT safe settings for daily and have only ever been done in short bursts for epeen benchmark scores to trounce newer systems\\\

I have tested PSU load capacity, it's fine. With XOC bios on my 1080ti and 4.65ghz CPU @ 1.372vcore, my system can pull 1000+ watts from the wall running furmark and prime concurrently. It can stay like that indefinitely without issues (though, I like my 1080ti alive so I don't), so the AX1200i is not the issue with the above VRM limitations. It's something specifically either on the board, or in the CPU itself that's triggering a self-protect. (see pic for brief log I got a pic of doing this)

I have had all onboard devices on, all onboard devices off (sound/lan/wifi/usb/asmedia sata etc) and it doesn't matter for stability.

If you're having black screen issues for an apparently unknown reason, I encourage you to try different things. First clearly identify exactly what behavior triggers the crash, this can be tough in some cases that are inconsistent, but there IS a cause. Disable all PCIE slots except what's being used with dipswitches. Try different RAM configurations (# of sticks, speeds, xmp/non-xmp/manual settings), cpu full auto setup, cpu full manual setup, onboard devices on/off and if no hardware setup combination fixes it start sifting through your installed/running software and services. 

The board is quite good as an overall package, but, it is an enthusiast board targeted to overclocking, as such don't expect to fire and forget, it was never intended/advertised as an "it just works" board.

At the end of the day, if you're needing absolute stability, limit speeds to 4.3/4.4 and vcore to 1.35 and uninstall all Corsair and ASUS software. At that config I've never had any stability issues whatsoever.

Of course I would be remiss if I left out the INEXCUSABLE 2400 memory strap bug that ASUS has known about since release and outright REFUSES to fix. Yes I am salty about this. Bastards, I'm glad certain people who left us high and dry aren't at Asus anymore, despite their significant internet reputation.

That said, upgraditis has gotten to me, jumping ship soon and will be listing board/cpu/ram/block as a package so some other soul can enjoy it soon.


----------



## Madmaxneo

tcclaviger said:


> Regarding NVME - BIOS hack + SN550 1tb works great! Screenshot is after about a year of use with nothing done, while not the fastest drive out there it's certainly fast enough. Fast in different areas to your raid array. Be cautious with those Cronos drives, I had 2 randomly die on me.
> 
> Black/Crashing R4BE Issues I've encountered over the years -
> 
> They exist, BUT, they are not always present. Certain software/BIOS settings trigger it on these boards. I have isolated the problems to a few things:
> 
> Nvidia drivers - Some of the 2019 releases caused random black screens. Happened on desktop with basically no load, happened while gaming, happened while idle. Driver update to most recent has completely fixed it.
> 
> Corsair Icue - Can, but doesn't always, cause random black screens. More of a slow-roll system crash, first the focused window would become non-responsive, then the system would slowly die, 1 thing after the next hanging until it was totally hung, no windows blue screen. Well documented on X79, Corsair can't be bothered, just like all the other Icue bugs.
> 
> Speedstep + C-State + Offset overclocking - When getting near the peak of the voltage/speed tipping point, for my chip, 4600 is tipping point after that I need to dump tons of voltage, if I let the PC idle and go into it's deepest non-sleep/non-hibernate power state, it won't wake up. Just dead, no errors reported in any logs. I believe this is a hard hang at 1200mhz when it occurs, voltage at that point is pretty low, as intended, but it doesn't come back. I have found no cure for this other than back off the overclock by 100mhz, or, disabling speedstep/c-states.
> 
> VRM limitations - through the years, experimenting with different LLC/VRM settings, I have found that there is a point, where the PC will simply insta-power off. Some sort of circuit protection, despite temperatures. I am under an EK full motherboard block, 11x120 radiator space, and the VRMs/CPU stay quite cool, even at extreme loads. With cpu at 70c during Prime small FFTs 26.6, 4.75ghz, 1.45vcore I can be stable if I UP the switching frequency of the CPU VRM and voltage to 10v. Extreme balance and 180% load with high llc. These settings stay alive. If I back off to what should be more gentle to the VRM, auto voltage/auto frequency or 450, and T.Probe vrm balance, it will hard reset during extreme loads. This reset only occurs when CPU package power = 180w +. \\\These are NOT safe settings for daily and have only ever been done in short bursts for epeen benchmark scores to trounce newer systems\\\
> 
> I have tested PSU load capacity, it's fine. With XOC bios on my 1080ti and 4.65ghz CPU @ 1.372vcore, my system can pull 1000+ watts from the wall running furmark and prime concurrently. It can stay like that indefinitely without issues (though, I like my 1080ti alive so I don't), so the AX1200i is not the issue with the above VRM limitations. It's something specifically either on the board, or in the CPU itself that's triggering a self-protect. (see pic for brief log I got a pic of doing this)
> 
> I have had all onboard devices on, all onboard devices off (sound/lan/wifi/usb/asmedia sata etc) and it doesn't matter for stability.
> 
> If you're having black screen issues for an apparently unknown reason, I encourage you to try different things. First clearly identify exactly what behavior triggers the crash, this can be tough in some cases that are inconsistent, but there IS a cause. Disable all PCIE slots except what's being used with dipswitches. Try different RAM configurations (# of sticks, speeds, xmp/non-xmp/manual settings), cpu full auto setup, cpu full manual setup, onboard devices on/off and if no hardware setup combination fixes it start sifting through your installed/running software and services.
> 
> The board is quite good as an overall package, but, it is an enthusiast board targeted to overclocking, as such don't expect to fire and forget, it was never intended/advertised as an "it just works" board.
> 
> At the end of the day, if you're needing absolute stability, limit speeds to 4.3/4.4 and vcore to 1.35 and uninstall all Corsair and ASUS software. At that config I've never had any stability issues whatsoever.
> 
> Of course I would be remiss if I left out the INEXCUSABLE 2400 memory strap bug that ASUS has known about since release and outright REFUSES to fix. Yes I am salty about this. Bastards, I'm glad certain people who left us high and dry aren't at Asus anymore, despite their significant internet reputation.
> 
> That said, upgraditis has gotten to me, jumping ship soon and will be listing board/cpu/ram/block as a package so some other soul can enjoy it soon.


I experience these black screens all the time. They started way before I had the iCue software and it has not gotten any worse since I installed it. I also at first thought it was an issue with nvidia drivers because I noticed the repeated error in the error logs, but I realized those errors only show up if I leave the black screens on for a few minutes. If I restart a few moments after the system freeze and subsequent black screens there is no nvidia driver error yet. That tells me it is not nvidia causing the issue either. I also did a test once and ran the board with no OC and a completely fresh install of Windows with no other software installed, yet the black screens still happened. I have come to the conclusion it is an issue with something on the board being bad, probably something to do with voltage regulation that eventually affects the PCIE slots that causes the nvidia driver errors to come up. 

But I also have upgraditis and will be upgrading to a i9 9900k system in the next week or two. I'd love to go with the new Rampage board and those awesome new chips, but that brings my price tag to double than what I will have with the 9900k system, and the performance will not be any better. If it is better it won't be by that much at all. I was thinking about waiting for more socket 1200 systems and the chips prices to go down some but I need an upgrade now so 9900k it is.


----------



## tcclaviger

Thats what I'm getting at, stock auto settings aren't necessarily totally stable, they weren't with my 3960x for sure and required tweaking.

The black screen thing is widely prevalent in PCs these days sadly, look at the Nvidia forums!

Suggests the lowest common denominator across the massively diverse set of affected PCs may be showing effects for you..... Windows. MS has demonstrated a phenomenal ability to deliver garbage updates over the last 6 months, even more garbage than normal.


----------



## Madmaxneo

tcclaviger said:


> Thats what I'm getting at, stock auto settings aren't necessarily totally stable, they weren't with my 3960x for sure and required tweaking.
> 
> The black screen thing is widely prevalent in PCs these days sadly, look at the Nvidia forums!
> 
> Suggests the lowest common denominator across the massively diverse set of affected PCs may be showing effects for you..... Windows. MS has demonstrated a phenomenal ability to deliver garbage updates over the last 6 months, even more garbage than normal.


I am pretty confident the black screens are an issue with the board. The other systems I have put together over the years that also have a nvidia graphics card don't have any issues. Windows does just fine on those machines and the other computers I have within my home. Plus from what I understand when I read into it a few years ago I found out the black screens I've been experiencing was somewhat common in this specific board when it first came out (but not everyone experienced it). The black screen I and a few others experience with this same board is a little different than many of the others reported elsewhere. The black screens on mine happen within seconds after my system completely freezes up. Sometimes the sound from videos or my music will still play in the background where other times it goes into this crazy annoying repeated stutter (or it goes completely mute). 
There is one thing I haven't been able to replace yet and that is the power supply for my AOC monitor. I found in the past when I moved my desk out and was rearranging the cables in the back that the black screen effect happened twice when I hit that PSU. I can't duplicate it every time and I have not been able to find a replacement PSU for the monitor. I did order one that I thought was going to work as it had all the same specs as this one but when I got it the connector did not fit in the connection on the monitor. I doubt that would cause my issue though cause my system freezes completely before my screens go black.


----------



## tcclaviger

I feel ya Madmaxneo, it's very frustrating. I, thankfully, have not ever had a scenario like that I can't track down.

I have had weird scenarios where the board hangs at code 34. Unplug all but 1 monitor, it boots, plug them back in, all is fine....

Very weird stuff lol.

Did some for funsies disk work, how fast is a Primocached NVME drive on overclocked X79?! This fast, thus why I said the SN 550 was "fast enough", with cache acceleration I'm almost never hitting the drive directly. PCIE 4.0 NVME..... whatever.


----------



## Laithan

Interesting..
App is utilizing a RAMDISK I assume?


----------



## Madmaxneo

So what is the latest on the best thermal paste out there now? I have been using the Grizzly Kryonaut for a couple years now and it works pretty well. Is there anything supposedly better now?


----------



## tcclaviger

Laithan said:


> Interesting..
> App is utilizing a RAMDISK I assume?


I use Primocache since I have so much extra RAM, might as well make some sort of use of it. Tested Asus RAMcache vs Primo, no contest, primo kills ramcache.

Whelp, I've moved on to AMD 3900x on Crosshair VI Extreme.

If anyone's interested in a R4BE that doesn't rando-black screen + EK waterblock (original heat sinks in box, unmodified) shoot me a PM with an offer.


----------



## Madmaxneo

tcclaviger said:


> I use Primocache since I have so much extra RAM, might as well make some sort of use of it. Tested Asus RAMcache vs Primo, no contest, primo kills ramcache.
> 
> Whelp, I've moved on to AMD 3900x on Crosshair VI Extreme.
> 
> If anyone's interested in a R4BE that doesn't rando-black screen + EK waterblock (original heat sinks in box, unmodified) shoot me a PM with an offer.


I would've been interested about 4 months ago but I am now also upgrading. I am looking at the 3950x on an x570 board with WiFi...lol. It's either that or the 10900k on the Asus Rog Maximus 12 (or comparable board). It all depends on what is available when I get the funds.....lol.


----------



## MonnieRock

With the latest modded BIOS, can the RIVBE handle 128gb ram on 4 DIMMs @ 32gb a piece?


Thank you,
Monnie


----------



## Laithan

MonnieRock said:


> With the latest modded BIOS, can the RIVBE handle 128gb ram on 4 DIMMs @ 32gb a piece?
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> Monnie


I could be wrong never tried 32GB DIMMs (don't have any) but I thought the latest BETA BIOS for this board, 0801 (stock or the modified one) added support for 128GB but with *16GB* modules in all 8 slots. Basically adding 16GB module support.


----------



## nofearek9

anyone tryed 16gb ECC server ram sticks ?


----------



## V3teran

Hi there

I cannot update to the bios release by wannaoverclocker?Whenever i try this i keep getting a security alert in the bios that wont allow me to flash the custom bios. How do i get around this? Do i need to disable secure boot? I have used low level format and still not working.... Im currently on bios 701, do i need to upgrade to 8.00 from asus first before i use wannaoverclockers bios?

Any help appreciated


----------



## Madmaxneo

V3teran said:


> Hi there
> 
> I cannot update to the bios release by wannaoverclocker?Whenever i try this i keep getting a security alert in the bios that wont allow me to flash the custom bios. How do i get around this? Do i need to disable secure boot? I have used low level format and still not working.... Im currently on bios 701, do i need to upgrade to 8.00 from asus first before i use wannaoverclockers bios?
> 
> Any help appreciated


No, you do not need to be on 0801 to update to the modded bios. 

Are you using the BIOS flash button on the back in the I/O panel? That is all I have used with this board and it has worked every time (as long as I follow the procedure correctly).

Note that there can't be anything else on the USB stick other than the bios file and it has to be named correctly. You have to rename the bios to *R4BE.CAP* and it has to be in the root directory of the USB drive if you didn't know this already. Basically it has to be the only file on the USB drive to work correctly.

EDIT: Note that you have to change the extension to .cap for it to work correctly.


----------



## xenkw0n

Recently acquired a Rampage IV Black Edition and it's behaving quite odd. Regardless of what I'm doing, stress testing (10+ minutes sometimes), sitting in the BIOS, sitting on the desktop (doing nothing), the motherboard will hard boot down. After it does this the CPU LED will come up and sit on Q code 00 until I unplug the power supply for a few minutes and clear CMOS. I will then be able to turn it all back on but it will inevitably just hard shut-down again within 10 seconds to 15 minutes of it being powered on again.


Using 1 stick of known working RAM, alternated between a few that I have just to be sure, same result. Currently only using 1 stick in A1 slot.
Tried two different PSU's, same thing, tried this first because the "anti surge" warning would come up usually when this happened if it doesn't go right into Q code 00 boot loops. Both are actually platinum rated, one is 1200w and the other is 1000w.
Stopped using HDMI and am using DVI on the card since I found a few places referencing weird issues with HDMI cables?
Have bread-boarded it and even when it's not like that, same things occur while it sits on my open bench.
Tried 2 different GPU's, 1 known working just fine in another system, a GTX 780ti and 980ti.
Tried using the MOLEX connector on the bottom of the board since very rarely when it hard boots off, comes back up and doesn't initialize the GPU properly, GPU fans spinning at 100% and Q code sitting on 34.
Tried both BIOS's, one is on an older 0403 and the main one I would use is on a bifurcation mod 0801 - Same issues regardless of BIOS.
Also tried two different CPU's, a 4960x and a 1680v2, same behavior yet again...

So... is this most likely just a broken board or is there a fix someone has found along the way like bumping currency and output settings or has no one actually found a cure for what seems to be a fairly common problem among these boards?


----------



## inlandchris

I wont be of any help but I went through 3 Rampage IV Black editions and finally got tired. I like the motherboard but the quality of ASUS sucks. I may never go back to ASUS unless I hear their quality parts on their motherboards matches their prices.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

inlandchris said:


> I wont be of any help but I went through 3 Rampage IV Black editions and finally got tired. I like the motherboard but the quality of ASUS sucks. I may never go back to ASUS unless I hear their quality parts on their motherboards matches their prices.


I bought one and only one, no problems with it. Still have it with a 1680 v2.


----------



## Madmaxneo

MrTOOSHORT said:


> I bought one and only one, no problems with it. Still have it with a 1680 v2.


Mine had issues and I was finally able to upgrade. I went with an AMD system and a 3900x on an X570 board. Unfortunately the only board I could get at the time was Gigabyte but luckily it is a good board so far. I really wanted an Asus board but I could never find any in stock unless I wanted to pay twice the price.

I will probably switch out to an Asus board when I get the chance just because I think they have pretty good customer service and great products. Compare this to Gigabyte customer service of which has the worst number of complaints I've ever seen for a MB company....lol.


----------



## xenkw0n

Well after closer inspection of the board it seemed to have a sticky substance covering a majority of the section below the CPU socket... As if something was spilled on it.

So... After all else failed... Time for the DISHWASHER!










Since 2 runs through that it's now been running for 24 hours without issue!


----------



## cirthix

Hi everyone. Long story short : I've got a rampage IV black edition that had a bad iROG chip, replaced the chip but now need to load firmware onto it. The iROG chip firmware is not available anywhere online, but it is possible (and easy) to dump from a working board.

The process is simple.
0) Power off system completely (atx supply unplugged)
1) Locate the DEBUG jumper (2*4 pins) near the CE marking between the lowest two pcieX16 slots. Pin 1 is towards the rear (i/o side) bottom (away from the cpu) and is marked on the pcb. Pin ordering is:
2 4 6 8
1 3 5 7

2) Connect a jumper across pins 5 and 7. This will enable bootloader mode on the embedded controller. The board will not function normally when in bootloader mode, thats ok.
3) Connect RX and TX from a 3.3v USB UART to pins 1 and 3. 1=TxD, 3=RxD
4) Connect the USB UART to another computer.
5) Turn on the ATX power supply. The embedded controller works off of 3.3v standby (derived from 5vsb), so the board doesn't really nee to be 'on' in the normal sense for this to work.
6) Run the application (found on some Russian board repair forum) here and press the blue dump button. Provide a filename and after a minute or so you'll have a dump of the embedded controller firmware.






EPConsoleHackedDownload.exe







drive.google.com





7) Unplug the ATX power supply and remove the jumper between pins 5 and 7. Your board will be back to normal once powercycled.

Much appreciated! If anyone is willing to do this and needs some help, happy to do a videocall.

thanks,
cirthix


----------



## nofearek9

hello ,the last 2 days i had a strange issue with my RVIBE :

i press start ,i hear the beep sound i can see the "_" icon in the top left of my screen as usuall but dont see the bios boot screen ,black screen after that and no widnows boot.

i press the reset button boot normal after the "_" i can see the bios boot screen and all ok .i shutdown the pc ,no boot ,press reset boot fine i tryed 10 times same issues all times i had to reset to be able to boot.

now problem is gone ,i saved bios in OC profile and restrored from another slot in saved profiles (exact same setup no chances) ,tryed 5-6 times and boot from the first try.


----------



## inlandchris

I am sorry but I am no hope here. I was on my 3rd RIVBE when it died last year and finally gave up on ASUS quality control. I understand taking a leap to a new motherboard is all new cpu,ddr4,pcie storage/U.s, all cost money. I just didnt see an alternative, buy another used and see it all happen again or get a new mobo. Yep, I decided to wait until intel comes out with a pcie 4.0.
I know this does not help but you are not the only one with ASUS trouble


----------



## Madmaxneo

nofearek9 said:


> hello ,the last 2 days i had a strange issue with my RVIBE :
> 
> i press start ,i hear the beep sound i can see the "_" icon in the top left of my screen as usuall but dont see the bios boot screen ,black screen after that and no widnows boot.
> 
> i press the reset button boot normal after the "_" i can see the bios boot screen and all ok .i shutdown the pc ,no boot ,press reset boot fine i tryed 10 times same issues all times i had to reset to be able to boot.
> 
> now problem is gone ,i saved bios in OC profile and restrored from another slot in saved profiles (exact same setup no chances) ,tryed 5-6 times and boot from the first try.


It may be time to upgrade. These boards are aging and though they age very well they will not last forever. I am happy to hear that you seem to have a really great RIVBE board.


inlandchris said:


> I am sorry but I am no hope here. I was on my 3rd RIVBE when it died last year and finally gave up on ASUS quality control. I understand taking a leap to a new motherboard is all new cpu,ddr4,pcie storage/U.s, all cost money. I just didnt see an alternative, buy another used and see it all happen again or get a new mobo. Yep, I decided to wait until intel comes out with a pcie 4.0.
> I know this does not help but you are not the only one with ASUS trouble


I only had one RIVBE board and it ran decently well for the last 5 years though it had an issue with random system freezes that I had to do a hard reset to get it back up and running. I upgraded to a Ryzen 3900x and 64gb of DDR4 3600 RAM but transferred over everything else. Unfortunately the only x570 board I could get at the time was a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite Wifi. If you didn't know their customer service is leagues worse than any other customer service out there. Take a look at reddit and you will see how many RMA nightmares there are out there related to Gigabyte. I will be "upgrading" to an Asus Dark Hero board here in the next couple of months (if I can find it again...lol).


----------



## SpecTRe-X

nofearek9 said:


> hello ,the last 2 days i had a strange issue with my RVIBE :
> 
> i press start ,i hear the beep sound i can see the "_" icon in the top left of my screen as usuall but dont see the bios boot screen ,black screen after that and no widnows boot.
> 
> i press the reset button boot normal after the "_" i can see the bios boot screen and all ok .i shutdown the pc ,no boot ,press reset boot fine i tryed 10 times same issues all times i had to reset to be able to boot.
> 
> now problem is gone ,i saved bios in OC profile and restrored from another slot in saved profiles (exact same setup no chances) ,tryed 5-6 times and boot from the first try.


It's very possible that there was some kind of corruption that was the issue rather than the board. If I understand your post correctly then the issue was resolved when you loaded in the settings from a fresh profile slot. If the problem comes back I'd recommend either trying the alternate bios chip or flashing a fresh copy of the bios to the current chip and see if that doesn't clear it up.


----------



## nofearek9

yes problem came back,tryed lot of thing no overclock ,less ram issue is there ,i will try now make a flash bios ,i will try the nvme bios and see how it goes.thanks for the comments.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Happy to help. If the flash doesn't work, try switching over to the other bios chip. If it's still no good I don't know what to tell you, unfortunately.


----------



## nofearek9

that was the first thinkg i tryed with no luck ,its a bit early to tell that problem solved but with 20 trys of boot i have now 100% success,what was the problem ? 
steelseries gamedac (usb sound card) ,in boot menu ,fast boot,usb support :disable.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Oh wow, hadn't heard of that kind of thing before. Good to hear you got it working again!


----------



## nofearek9

yeap very very strange i had arctis pro wireless for more than a year with no problem ,replaced it with gamedac and after 2 weeks i noticed that ,i can now tell you 100% that was the problem ,after made the change in bios nothing happened again.(yet)


----------



## nyk20z3

Been looking on ebay for one of these as a collectors item, if any one wants to sell at a reasonable price just pm me


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am looking to sell my 32gb (4x8) of Gskill Trident Z 2133 RAM and my 4930k CPU. I was thinking of adding the RIVBE board into that sale for free because the board causes the system to freeze up occasionally, that's if anyone would want the board. 
At one point while it was still under warranty Asus said I could send it in and they would see if they could fix it but I would've been without a PC in the meantime and they didn't have any more RIVBEs and would have to take an alternative board if they couldn't fix it. The board ran fine for like 3 or 4 years but except for the random system freezes, of which a hard system reset was the only way out of them. 

How much do you all think I could get for the RAM and the CPU (w/free RIVBE board)? 

I also have a 1650 v2 xenon that worked fine with this board I could add in.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

nyk20z3 said:


> Been looking on ebay for one of these as a collectors item, if any one wants to sell at a reasonable price just pm me


What does a new mid-line threadripper build cost, 1,500? I'll give you mine for 1k, collectors items cost premium 

If it's just as a wall installation or something for a display case then maybe Madmax will give you his for the cost of shipping.

@Madmaxneo I don't know, 75 for the ram and 100 for the cpu? 50 for the ram? I don't know, if you had an 8x8 kit I'd have PMed you. Maybe check newegg and see what similar kits are priced at currently.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Madmaxneo said:


> I am looking to sell my 32gb (4x8) of Gskill Trident Z 2133 RAM and my 4930k CPU. I was thinking of adding the RIVBE board into that sale for free because the board causes the system to freeze up occasionally, that's if anyone would want the board.
> At one point while it was still under warranty Asus said I could send it in and they would see if they could fix it but I would've been without a PC in the meantime and they didn't have any more RIVBEs and would have to take an alternative board if they couldn't fix it. The board ran fine for like 3 or 4 years but except for the random system freezes, of which a hard system reset was the only way out of them.
> 
> How much do you all think I could get for the RAM and the CPU (w/free RIVBE board)?
> 
> I also have a 1650 v2 xenon that worked fine with this board I could add in.


@Jpmboy might be looking for some 4x8gb ddr3.


----------



## Madmaxneo

SpecTRe-X said:


> What does a new mid-line threadripper build cost, 1,500? I'll give you mine for 1k, collectors items cost premium
> 
> If it's just as a wall installation or something for a display case then maybe Madmax will give you his for the cost of shipping.
> 
> @Madmaxneo I don't know, 75 for the ram and 100 for the cpu? 50 for the ram? I don't know, if you had an 8x8 kit I'd have PMed you. Maybe check newegg and see what similar kits are priced at currently.


I don't really want to sell the board for free so I figured I would offer it with the CPU and RAM. Those prices sound about right because it seems like everyone wants to get rid of their old stuff...lol. The 4930k I have is a good chip and will hit 4.4ghz on all cores with no issues. It wasn't stable at 4.5ghz but I am sure someone with more skill in the bios could get better than I could. I feel like I should keep this CPU and RAM and get another x79 board, but there don't seem to be any decent x79 boards around for a cheap price....lol.


----------



## SpecTRe-X

Madmaxneo said:


> I don't really want to sell the board for free so I figured I would offer it with the CPU and RAM. Those prices sound about right because it seems like everyone wants to get rid of their old stuff...lol. The 4930k I have is a good chip and will hit 4.4ghz on all cores with no issues. It wasn't stable at 4.5ghz but I am sure someone with more skill in the bios could get better than I could. I feel like I should keep this CPU and RAM and get another x79 board, but there don't seem to be any decent x79 boards around for a cheap price....lol.


Fair enough.

Yeah, between the coof, new tech tariff, and inflation from all the money printing everything keeps costing more man hours to buy. It probably hits guys like us the hardest since we're usually looking to upgrade to something more capable to power all the new things we want to dabble in since the last time we built a rig. I've heard tablets were up to something like $650 and phones are somewhere near $1,800 now. I'll tell you one thing, I'm glad I bought my G7 when I did. Could always be worse though, we could be looking for some 9mm xD


----------



## The Storm

Madmaxneo said:


> I don't really want to sell the board for free so I figured I would offer it with the CPU and RAM. Those prices sound about right because it seems like everyone wants to get rid of their old stuff...lol. The 4930k I have is a good chip and will hit 4.4ghz on all cores with no issues. It wasn't stable at 4.5ghz but I am sure someone with more skill in the bios could get better than I could. I feel like I should keep this CPU and RAM and get another x79 board, but there don't seem to be any decent x79 boards around for a cheap price....lol.


So did you end up selling all of it?


----------



## Madmaxneo

The Storm said:


> So did you end up selling all of it?


Nope, I haven't even listed it yet...lol.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Does anyone have a link to the latest available chipset / AHCI controller drivers for the Rampage IV Black Edition motherboard? For some reason that board appears to be no longer supported on the Asus website--I see no download links for anything for it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ElevenEleven said:


> Does anyone have a link to the latest available chipset / AHCI controller drivers for the Rampage IV Black Edition motherboard? For some reason that board appears to be no longer supported on the Asus website--I see no download links for anything for it.


That's because it hasn't been supported for a few years now. 
Luckily some people have continued support and developed the chipsets and BIOS further. You can scroll up and back to find the latest chipset and BIOS sets that include support for PCIE NVME drives. They might be a few pages back but they are safe and they do work. These updates were made outside of Asus by reputable people and they also include the CPU patches for those vulnerabilities that came out a couple of years ago.


----------



## Laithan

You can try this: ASUS_RIVBE_WHQL_WIN10_LATEST_DRIVERS_BIOS_ASUS_INFO_28APR19.zip | by EffortLess for Utilities

but definitely scroll backwards/search for the updated 1.08 BIOS with newer microcodes. 42E I think is the latest one we have for this board. I hear there are yet more new vulnerabilities...Hopefully we can get some even newer microcode updates


----------



## ElevenEleven

Laithan said:


> You can try this: ASUS_RIVBE_WHQL_WIN10_LATEST_DRIVERS_BIOS_ASUS_INFO_28APR19.zip | by EffortLess for Utilities
> 
> but definitely scroll backwards/search for the updated 1.08 BIOS with newer microcodes. 42E I think is the latest one we have for this board. I hear there are yet more new vulnerabilities...Hopefully we can get some even newer microcode updates


Thanks for the recommendation! I have updated to that BIOS and installed the updated Intel ME and RSTe driver, as well as the new chipset driver. Alas it did not resolve the warning message of "Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort2, was issued" in Event Viewer and system freezing up for 15-20 seconds after waking from sleep. Still seeing "Standard SATA AHCI Controller" in the device manager, which I hoped would be updated. Already taken all the other recommended steps to resolve that issue, but no luck. Drives are healthy, everything is up to date  Seems like some power saving option I haven't yet found to change.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ElevenEleven said:


> Thanks for the recommendation! I have updated to that BIOS and installed the updated Intel ME and RSTe driver, as well as the new chipset driver. Alas it did not resolve the warning message of "Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort2, was issued" in Event Viewer and system freezing up for 15-20 seconds after waking from sleep. Still seeing "Standard SATA AHCI Controller" in the device manager, which I hoped would be updated. Already taken all the other recommended steps to resolve that issue, but no luck. Drives are healthy, everything is up to date  Seems like some power saving option I haven't yet found to change.


Yeah I have noticed that troubleshooting anything with this board can be a bit difficult. Although some of the issues do sound familiar, but the fix isn't based on hardware. 
What OS are you running? If Windows 10 do you have all the updates installed? I ask this because I ran into a very similar problem on the Windows help desk I help moderate. Once they installed the latest updates they had no issues.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Madmaxneo said:


> Yeah I have noticed that troubleshooting anything with this board can be a bit difficult. Although some of the issues do sound familiar, but the fix isn't based on hardware.
> What OS are you running? If Windows 10 do you have all the updates installed? I ask this because I ran into a very similar problem on the Windows help desk I help moderate. Once they installed the latest updates they had no issues.


I've followed all kinds of on-line advice so far to resolve it, but nothing helped so far. It's Windows 10 Pro 64-bit. Followed this guide and then looked for additional options too: FIX: Reset to device \Device\RaidPort0 error in Windows 10

Step 5 on that guide: "*5. Update the AHCI Driver*", is what I'm a bit stuck on. I have installed all the relevant drivers from the package linked by SparkyBoy006, but not sure if those are enough. They did not solve my problem. In Device Manager the driver for "Standard SATA AHCI controller" shows the date of 2006. I don't know if there's any newer version I can get for RIVBE and where. I thought there should be some board-specific driver, but it's not present:









So with no alternative driver to try, I'm not sure if it's a controller issue or not.

I have all the latest Windows and driver updates I could find.
I have checked both drives with CrystalDiskInfo, looking at every S.M.A.R.T. parameter -- all good
I have downloaded and ran Samsung Magician to check the OS SSD -- all good, latest firmware (1TB 840 Evo)
I have done sfc /scannow, DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth, chkdsk -- all good
I have added extra AHCI power power options settings via the registry--all set to recommended values. "AHCI Link power management" is active, Adaptive is set to 0ms), PCI Express link state power management - off
I have swapped both drives to other SATA ports on the motherboard just in case
turned off fast boot


----------



## Madmaxneo

ElevenEleven said:


> I've followed all kinds of on-line advice so far to resolve it, but nothing helped so far. It's Windows 10 Pro 64-bit. Followed this guide and then looked for additional options too: FIX: Reset to device \Device\RaidPort0 error in Windows 10
> 
> Step 5 on that guide: "*5. Update the AHCI Driver*", is what I'm a bit stuck on. I have installed all the relevant drivers from the package linked by SparkyBoy006, but not sure if those are enough. They did not solve my problem. In Device Manager the driver for "Standard SATA AHCI controller" shows the date of 2006. I don't know if there's any newer version I can get for RIVBE and where. I thought there should be some board-specific driver, but it's not present:
> So with no alternative driver to try, I'm not sure if it's a controller issue or not.
> 
> I have all the latest Windows and driver updates I could find.
> I have checked both drives with CrystalDiskInfo, looking at every S.M.A.R.T. parameter -- all good
> I have downloaded and ran Samsung Magician to check the OS SSD -- all good, latest firmware (1TB 840 Evo)
> I have done sfc /scannow, DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth, chkdsk -- all good
> I have added extra AHCI power power options settings via the registry--all set to recommended values. "AHCI Link power management" is active, Adaptive is set to 0ms), PCI Express link state power management - off
> I have swapped both drives to other SATA ports on the motherboard just in case
> turned off fast boot


Yeah, like I said troubleshooting on these boards can be a PITA and that's part of the reason I moved on to something newer. 

I don't have any input or advice except to keep trying or just give in and go for a new system.


----------



## Laithan

You can easily build a Live USB install of Windows 10 that runs directly off the drive. You can even install drivers on it. I would try this first before anything else as it will definitely prove if you have an O/S or a hardware issue. Good luck, let us know.


----------



## ElevenEleven

I have figured it out, and it was trivial and non-trivial. 

The trivial part: it turns out after the last OS reinstall I forgot to install ASMedia controller driver, because the Asus product page for the motherboard had already stopped linking to drivers and software. That's why I was seeing "Standard SATA AHCI Controller" in the device manager. After looking at which ports the OS drive was plugged into, I realized it was one of the 4 bottom 6GB/s SATA ports, which are controlled by the ASMedia controller. After installing the ASMedia SATA driver from the software package bundled with the latest unofficial BIOS, no more "Reset to device\Device\RaidPort" error.

However, I knew that ASMedia ports top out at 400MB/s, whereas my main OS drive is a 540MB/s drive. So I shifted both the HDD and the SSD to the two Intel 6GB/s ports (the two middle ones). The non-trivial part: unfortunately, while there are no event viewer errors, waking from sleep is still problematic with the Intel controller. It still takes noticeably longer to react (screens can stay black for a few seconds after waking, whereas they don't with the ASMedia controller), and still can do a few seconds' freeze after waking where nothing responds, even after the long black screen. This is with all power saving I could find set to disabled/minimum, and both with and without RSTe installed.

So I've moved everything back to the ASMedia ports. Sacrificing some SSD maximum read/write performance to better stability and reactiveness post-waking from sleep. Eventually I'll get an NVMe SSD and shift to using that for the OS drive.


----------



## Laithan

ElevenEleven said:


> I have figured it out, and it was trivial and non-trivial.
> 
> The trivial part: it turns out after the last OS reinstall I forgot to install ASMedia controller driver, because the Asus product page for the motherboard had already stopped linking to drivers and software. That's why I was seeing "Standard SATA AHCI Controller" in the device manager. After looking at which ports the OS drive was plugged into, I realized it was one of the 4 bottom 6GB/s SATA ports, which are controlled by the ASMedia controller. After installing the ASMedia SATA driver from the software package bundled with the latest unofficial BIOS, no more "Reset to device\Device\RaidPort" error.
> 
> However, I knew that ASMedia ports top out at 400MB/s, whereas my main OS drive is a 540MB/s drive. So I shifted both the HDD and the SSD to the two Intel 6GB/s ports (the two middle ones). The non-trivial part: unfortunately, while there are no event viewer errors, waking from sleep is still problematic with the Intel controller. It still takes noticeably longer to react (screens can stay black for a few seconds after waking, whereas they don't with the ASMedia controller), and still can do a few seconds' freeze after waking where nothing responds, even after the long black screen. This is with all power saving I could find set to disabled/minimum, and both with and without RSTe installed.
> 
> So I've moved everything back to the ASMedia ports. Sacrificing some SSD maximum read/write performance to better stability and reactiveness post-waking from sleep. Eventually I'll get an NVMe SSD and shift to using that for the OS drive.


Since you're messing with storage.. This is the perfect platform (due to the PCI-e slots and many PCI-s lanes) to use a PCI-e raid controller card. I highly recommend the LSI 9271-4i (or 8i if more than 4 drives), _[trust me THAT specific model number 9271 only, there are other similar model numbers and they look identical but they are not]_.. You'll want to get a battery backup for it also to be able to enable the write cache. It has a 1GB DDR3 cache (so yes it is a cache controller) and loves SSD drives but works great with HDD also. They are pretty cheap now. 

This is with (6) Samsung 850 PRO SSD drives in RAID 0 (I have excellent DR and everything is backed up) but you would get great performance with even 2 or 3 drives.. You can use NVMe on this board also with a PCI-e adapter but if you have SSDs already, slap in the controller and you've essentially turned your SSDs into NVMe speeds especially when the data is cached. This benchmark below is using a file size of only 256MB, so it fits will within the 1GB cache on the controller. This is why the read speeds are insane and the write speeds are extremely impressive (write cache working). 










This next benchmark is using a 2GB test file so it will not fit inside the 1GB cache and would represent more raw performance in the "worst case".


----------



## ElevenEleven

Those are impressive!

So a final update in my saga -- I moved the drives to the two Intel controller 6GB/s slots after all, after installing an older RSTe driver recommended here for an X79 system:








Intel RST/RSTe Drivers (latest: v17.11.3.1007 WHQL/v8.0.0.4028 WHQL)


@ all users with an Intel AHCI or RAID system: Intel’s RST/RSTe AHCI/RAID/VMD Drivers inclusive details about a) their RST Console Software (>post #2) and b) the different Intel SATA AHCI/RAID Controllers (>post #3) (last updated: 12/15/2022) Changelog: new: 64bit Intel RST...




www.win-raid.com




"Intel RST(e) AHCI/RAID drivers & software set v13.1.0.1058 WHQL"

Now I get the best performance from the Intel controller and waking from sleep is fine. Not quite as snappy as waking from sleep when using the ASMedia controller, but good enough considering the overall better read/write performance.

Just got a deal on a Xeon E5 1680 v2 to swap out the current i7 4930k. 2 extra cores and extra cache size won't hurt, hopefully it'll be a bit better on voltages and temperatures too. To be seen. I feel pretty good about the overall system in 2021. It's got 64GB of quad-channel 2133Mhz RAM, and I can put in an NVMe SSD eventually. The main thing hurting it is, I guess, lack of something like AVX2 support for some games. But still considering the age of the system, it's holding up really well.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quick question for those who have switched to NVMe drives for this motherboard--are you noticing any difference coming from good SATA drives? I have a Samsung 850 Evo 1TB in my RIVBE system, and now that I'm using the latest NVMe-compatible BIOS, I'm wondering if cloning the OS drive to a _good _PCIe-3.0 1TB NVMe drive will make much of a difference. From what I'm reading, it won't be something I will really notice, is that right? Should I save $100+ and not do that upgrade? My 10th gen i9 + HK Hynix P31 Gold NVMe SSD and faster DDR4 memory system does feel "snappier", but the motherboard for that system has longer loading for the BIOS and into Windows, so it's a wash. But since the parts are all different between the two, I can't compare directly.u

Edit: I guess I should just save the money: 



From everything I'm reading, there won't be much of a noticeable difference between the fastest 1TB PCIe Gen 3 NVMe drive and my 1TB Samsung 850 Evo.


----------



## Laithan

In order to boot from it you'll need a Samsung 950 PRO... one of the few NMVe drives that will boot on this board. They are a bit special. The speeds are impressive and faster than a single SSD. I don't think it will be drastic but rather noticable.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Laithan said:


> In order to boot from it you'll need a Samsung 950 PRO... one of the few NMVe drives that will boot on this board. They are a bit special. The speeds are impressive and faster than a single SSD. I don't think it will be drastic but rather noticable.


Thank you. Do you mean I can't just use any random NVME m.2 drive, like another SK Hynix P31 Gold NVMe? 950 Pro is pretty dated in terms of operation speeds. Is there a list of compatible NVMe drives for this motherboard somewhere?


----------



## Laithan

ElevenEleven said:


> Thank you. Do you mean I can't just use any random NVME m.2 drive, like another SK Hynix P31 Gold NVMe? 950 Pro is pretty dated in terms of operation speeds. Is there a list of compatible NVMe drives for this motherboard somewhere?


I think you are limited to these:

*PCIe NVMe (with built-in OPROM):*
Samsung 950 Pro - Bootable
Intel 750 Series- Bootable

These drives have an option rom to allow detection @ boot and when windows loads it will then use the NMVe driver. Newer drives did away with the oprom support.

Others will still work but would not be bootable.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Laithan said:


> I think you are limited to these:
> 
> *PCIe NVMe (with built-in OPROM):*
> Samsung 950 Pro - Bootable
> Intel 750 Series- Bootable
> 
> These drives have an option rom to allow detection @ boot and when windows loads it will then use the NMVe driver. Newer drives did away with the oprom support.
> 
> Others will still work but would not be bootable.


Very useful, thanks!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Laithan said:


> I think you are limited to these:
> 
> *PCIe NVMe (with built-in OPROM):*
> Samsung 950 Pro - Bootable
> Intel 750 Series- Bootable
> 
> These drives have an option rom to allow detection @ boot and when windows loads it will then use the NMVe driver. Newer drives did away with the oprom support.
> 
> Others will still work but would not be bootable.


That is not true. I used a 970 Evo NVME drive as a boot drive on my RIVBE. In fact there were several others that had used different drives that seemed to work fine.


ElevenEleven said:


> Very useful, thanks!


Read above. I used a 970 EVO just fine as a boot drive. Also note that I did notice a difference in boot times coming from an SSD to the 970 EVO NVME drive. When I checked Task Manager for bios boot time, it was about 10 seconds faster in the bios. I couldn't tell you the exact difference in boot times all the way into windows but it was noticeably quicker for me, and I have a lot of apps that start with windows on my machine.


----------



## nofearek9

have in mind ,in order newer nvme ssds be able boot you need a custom bios not the one from asus website.


----------



## Madmaxneo

nofearek9 said:


> have in mind ,in order newer nvme ssds be able boot you need a custom bios not the one from asus website.


Yes, that's what most in this forum have. There is a custom bios a few pages (or more) back, and it has the micro codes fix.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Madmaxneo said:


> Yes, that's what most in this forum have. There is a custom bios a few pages (or more) back, and it has the micro codes fix.


Thank you, I do have the custom BIOS that supports NVMe SSDs. Does this mean I can get a standard modern NVMe drive, like an SK Hynix P31 Gold?


----------



## Madmaxneo

ElevenEleven said:


> Thank you, I do have the custom BIOS that supports NVMe SSDs. Does this mean I can get a standard modern NVMe drive, like an SK Hynix P31 Gold?


I believe so. I had no issues whatsoever when I used my 970 evo to boot off of on my RIVBE.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Which TPM 2.0 module should be compatible with this motherboard and a Xeon E5 1680 V2 processor? Can't find a 20-1 pin Asus module in stock anywhere, did find a Gigabyte version for preorder. I see there are a bunch of Supermicro models, but a site I was looking at specifies that those are compatible with various specific CPU ranges.

Edit: well nevermind, I guess there's a hard-cut off for the CPU too. Looks like that system won't be eligible for Win 11.


----------



## psyclist

ElevenEleven said:


> Edit: well nevermind, I guess there's a hard-cut off for the CPU too. Looks like that system won't be eligible for Win 11.


We shall see if they relax this, ive seen various workarounds to get sandybridge CPU's running 11, so perhaps it will just be unofficial but still working. Id hate to have to retire this setup!


----------



## Madmaxneo

psyclist said:


> We shall see if they relax this, ive seen various workarounds to get sandybridge CPU's running 11, so perhaps it will just be unofficial but still working. Id hate to have to retire this setup!


Well the board is almost 10 years old. Maybe it is time for retirement.


----------



## Laithan

I installed the leaked copy without issue in a VM... and there is no TPM 2.0 support on the platform running ESXi... If there is some kind of exception for a VM this means we could likely use it (or hack it) for bare metal also.


----------



## KavinTam

R4BE is not support TPM 2.0


----------



## Kelsocolt

Hi guys I spoke to Asus Tech today and had them double check to make sure it can run TPM 2.0
They said the Rampage IV Black Edition requires their ASUS TPM-L R2.0 chip Microsoft is apparently testing the 7th gen higher end processers I might as well get one for the hell of it..
Anyone have an idea where i can buy one?

Here is a Link to the Chip they said works with the board,,

TPM-L R2.0｜Motherboards｜ASUS Global


----------



## Laithan

Kelsocolt said:


> Hi guys I spoke to Asus Tech today and had them double check to make sure it can run TPM 2.0
> They said the Rampage IV Black Edition requires their ASUS TPM-L R2.0 chip Microsoft is apparently testing the 7th gen higher end processers I might as well get one for the hell of it..
> Anyone have an idea where i can buy one?
> 
> Here is a Link to the Chip they said works with the board,,
> 
> TPM-L R2.0｜Motherboards｜ASUS Global


Very interesting.. I thought v1.2 was the highest we could go on this platform. It does look pin compatible though.. not an expert by any means with TPM but wouldn't this require a BIOS MOD also?

TBH I don't want to use any of the features anyway so I will be waiting for a hack/workaround for the TPM 2.0 requirement and avoid the hassles.


----------



## Kelsocolt

Update on the TPM ASUS TPM-L- R2.0

Ok, So it Appears that the Tech at Asus lied....
I tried the Asus TPM 2.0 Chip he (( SAID )) Was compatible and It does show up in the Bios and Can be Enabled
But when I boot into the Win 10 Os Nothing in the Device Manager and when I do TPM,Msc it doesn't show up ??
So I am guessing that Either I am Missing something else in the Bios that needs to be turned on or its just not compatible.

If anyone has any suggestions I can try I'm all ears if not I'm Just all ears and $125.00 down


----------



## Laithan

You would somehow need 2.0 code added to the BIOS.... sry you paid so much that's a price gouge right there.


----------



## Kelsocolt

Hey Guys I dont know if I missed this on here but did anyone make a Bios Update that Supports (TPM) version 2.0 for the RIVBE ? I currently have Bios 0701 Original from ASUS.


----------



## Laithan

Not that I am aware of.. I am not concerned because thus far it seems Windows 11 may just be Windows 11ME...

There is a custom 0801 BIOS in this thread with updated microcode though (specture/meltdown).


----------



## Kelsocolt

Laithan said:


> Not that I am aware of.. I am not concerned because thus far it seems Windows 11 may just be Windows 11ME...
> 
> There is a custom 0801 BIOS in this thread with updated microcode though (specture/meltdown).


I am going to have to agree with you there ... Just sucks that having spent $500 on a Motherboard that Asus barely supported with one or two bios updates and drivers a $1.200 Processor makes us the bastard child.. lol


----------



## Laithan

I am still more than happy with my RIVBE and E5-1680v2, does everything I need without compromise... pushes my 2080Ti nicely... Winblows11ME will not change that a bit ; )


----------



## Laithan

Does anyone have any experience with the bifurication support that was added to the latest modified BIOS? I read confirmation that an ASUS Hyper M.2 x16 card would work on x79 with the bifurication support modded in... which would mean that (if all M.2 slots were populated) the BIOS would see 4 seperate drives. Would any of them be bootable? I am aware of Intel VROC which is x299+ so I don't think any RAID options would be available.. It still might be a nice way to add (4) drive w/NVMe speed and capacity all tucked into a single slot. I wonder if this would get very hot over time..


----------



## nofearek9

Hi ,today i saw that my GPU is at 8x instead of 16x ,its on 1st pcie slot (2070) and i have on the last (4th) pcie slot the nvme ssd ,i changed the position on all 3 pcie slots with same results ,is any hidden bios option for this ?

_edit_
false alarm it was the pcie extension cable after all


----------



## ArctiX

Hey guys, was just by chance I refound this thread! My RIVBE is still kicking strong here.

I'm running a triple boot hackintosh off the hacked firmware to allow for Nvme, which I've recently updated to Monterey / Windows 11 / Linux Mint.

I was confused to see Windows 11 isn't supported because of the TPM 2.0 requirement. I didn't even think of that, nor did I have any issues with installation.

I'm running OpenCore 0.74 and booting straight in, everything working perfectly.

Aside from any security benefits from TPM 2.0, is there any reason I shouldn't run Win11. Any potential dangers I should be weary about? Is there any threat to the file system?

Thanks - Matt

EDIT : NVM - I read that since these posts they've allowed installation on non-TPM hardware. But still would love any input on what you guys thinking about running without it?


----------



## Laithan

Yup, I have 2 systems based on this board and they are good as new and handles everything I throw at it. 

To answer your question, this for starters: O&O ShutUp10++: Free antispy tool for Windows 10 and 11

I don't want to turn this forum into an O/S debate because that will surely happen. For those interested in whether or not Win11 can be installed on RIVBE without the presence of a TPM 3.0 chip will appreciate this info. I personally didn't bother trying and have no plans to.

I may have to make a Hackintosh VM now.. sounds like a fun journey.


----------



## Laithan

EDIT nvm
re: Resizable Bar, went down the rabbit hole a bit more and although some i7 and Xeons did support it, this generation CPU is just too old it seems making it not a matter of adding support for it but that it cannot run at all.


----------



## Laithan

Exciting times, new toys for the RIVBE! Of course I had to stick with the "Black" theme




Spoiler: Ramble on



At this point I suspect I'm one of the few still running this platform however IMO it is still very much relevant and I guess we're going to find out. The _*modified BIOS*_ we were very fortunate to get here added all kinds of things like NVMe support, microcode for Specture/Meltdown and several other things (_*Thanks guys, you know who you are!*_). NVMe support is not native to this chipset but with this BIOS MOD we should be able to utilize a PCI-e slot for a direct connection so I am going to give it a try (not to be confused with a PCI-e bifurcation card). I knew that a Samsung 950 Pro came with its own BIOS built in that provided bootable support for systems that do not support NVMe natively (confirmed works and bootable, I have one of these in my other computer, also a RIVBE) but this will be the true test to see if I can get this _*NMVe recognized and bootable*_. This also a PCI-e 4.0 drive so I will of course be using backward compatibility as RIVBE is only PCI-e 3.0.

I said screw it.. and got another toy also. A 3090Ti at MSRP is what my old 2080Ti was going for at one point last year with the scalping so I talked myself into it lol. I have the perfect opportunity to really see for myself (and share with you) how well this platform can hold up/compare with modern hardware. Around 2008 Intel became stagnent. Every new CPU was just like the previous yet we had to buy a new motherboard, sometimes new memory and sometimes new coolers only to gain 10% at best. I was running an old X5470 790i Ultra platform with (2)980Ti's in SLI in 4K/60fps. So I now want to see how far I can push this system and how it would compare to newer systems @ 4K. I know for sure they will be faster but by how much? This platform would have zero chance to compare when using low resolutions/high refresh but I have a feeling I'm not going to be missing all that much when @ 4K .





_More Blackness_
















*NOTE:* This adapter is marketed as a PCI-e 3.0 NVMe however it has been proven to also run at full PCI-e 4.0 speeds as the speed is controlled by the PCI-e bus not this adapter. It is just a direct connection. Although I don't have PCI-e 4.0, I can take this with me to a new platform in the future.

NOTE #2: This adapter will only support ONE NVMe drive. Populating the 2nd M.2 slot requires _bifurcation support which this MB does not have_.




























I don't have the NVMe installed yet because I was sent a half height bracket.


----------



## z390e

I wound up giving away my RIVBE, 4960x and my SLI'd 1080's (everything liquid cooled) to a local HS kid who didnt have $ to get into PC gaming.

I know he still uses it and games on it every day according to him.


----------



## Laithan

z390e said:


> I wound up giving away my RIVBE, 4960x and my SLI'd 1080's (everything liquid cooled) to a local HS kid who didnt have $ to get into PC gaming.
> 
> I know he still uses it and games on it every day according to him.


You are genuinely his hero. Thanks for sharing this


----------



## Laithan

Success! 

For those that may stumble upon this post, this is of course only possible with the _modified_ 0801 BIOS from this thread.

Got the NVMe drive working on this board and it is also bootable. For extra points I even added NVMe support to Windows 7 (dual boot w/Win10). One observation, the NVMe drive would NOT be detected if I used the very bottom full length PCI-e slot. This forced me to have to stick it right under the GPU but luckily it has a small footprint.











Some before and after benchmarks. I am limited to the PCI-e 3.0 8x speed so I am not seeing the full potential of this NVMe drive but it is still faster than my previous RAID 0 array so I cannot complain. I guess with winderz overhead and all this is probably the fastest speed possible on this platform. 6 SSDs in RAID 0 vs this one single NVMe running in BC mode still beats it. Very impressive IMO.


----------



## Laithan

For those still using a RIVBE, this is what you could expect if you are thinking of an upgrade to a newer GPU. This is a graphics score only but this platform despite only being PCIe 3.0 and a quite old IVY-e is still pretty comparable. I just chose the #1 score with a 10900KF/12900KF and a 3090Ti and added my old 2080Ti that I replaced to give you an idea of how much difference there would be on this platform. I need to do some framtime tests in games to see the real story.









Result







www.3dmark.com


----------



## xmauro

nofearek9 said:


> anyone tryed 16gb ECC server ram sticks ?


I also have this doubt does any ecc memory work on rampage 4 extreme?


----------



## Laithan

FWIW, if you are using a XEON that's the first pre-req and seems the latest 0801 beta BIOS might add support






128GB DDR3 Support On Rampage IV Black Edition & ASUS X79 Deluxe


hello guy i just saw this today on ROG website http://rog.asus.com/340082014/rampage-motherboards/max-your-mem-128gb-ddr3-support-on-rampage-iv-black-edition-asus-x79-deluxe/ Manufacturer By I'M Intelligent Memory http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/first-8gb-ddr3-components-and-16gb-unbuffer...




linustechtips.com










Bios Mod For ASUS RAMPAGE IV EXTREME


Hello the asus has released a bios update for the



www.bios-mods.com


----------



## nofearek9

Laithan said:


> Does anyone have any experience with the bifurication support that was added to the latest modified BIOS? I read confirmation that an ASUS Hyper M.2 x16 card would work on x79 with the bifurication support modded in... which would mean that (if all M.2 slots were populated) the BIOS would see 4 seperate drives. Would any of them be bootable? I am aware of Intel VROC which is x299+ so I don't think any RAID options would be available.. It still might be a nice way to add (4) drive w/NVMe speed and capacity all tucked into a single slot. I wonder if this would get very hot over time..


would like some more info as well ,just updated my bios as well ,it would be nice if there is a way to boot with raid0


----------



## Laithan

nofearek9 said:


> would like some more info as well ,just updated my bios as well ,it would be nice if there is a way to boot with raid0


Sadly no, bifurcation support is not included in this BIOS... just NVMe bootable support. PCIe 3.0 @ 16x provides 15.754 GB/s so there is bandwidth available for something like this even on this old PCI 3.0 platform. Oddly hardware based raid controllers for NVMe (no MB BIOS support needed) were rarely produced. 

but there is this 





M.2 Non-Bootable - Gen3 | HighPoint-tech.com


SSD7000 series controllers are fully independent NVMe RAID storage solutions. Unlike the vast majority of NVMe controllers available for mainstream PCIe 3.0 host platforms, SSD7000 series controllers are not restricted to a particular chipset or motherboard series, and require no bifurcation...




www.highpoint-tech.com













Highpoint Announces 8-Port M.2 NVMe RAID Controllers


HighPoint M.2 HPC Series RAID Controllers establish a new benchmark for NVMe performance: up to 55,000 MB/s for a single RAID array. HighPoint manufactures the industry's most comprehensive selection of M.2, U.2 and U.3 NVMe RAID controllers. The 8-Port SSD7540 and SSD7140A represent the best...




www.techpowerup.com


----------



## nofearek9

i am talking about bios with bifurcation support ,no raid0 boot support  ,interested hardware you posted,thanks!


----------



## nofearek9

Laithan said:


> For those still using a RIVBE, this is what you could expect if you are thinking of an upgrade to a newer GPU. This is a graphics score only but this platform despite only being PCIe 3.0 and a quite old IVY-e is still pretty comparable. I just chose the #1 score with a 10900KF/12900KF and a 3090Ti and added my old 2080Ti that I replaced to give you an idea of how much difference there would be on this platform. I need to do some framtime tests in games to see the real story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.3dmark.com


thanks for the results,i am going to buy a 3080 at least when prices go low ($500),i think this platform has still life for games.


----------



## Redshift 91

I tried going to the link for the bios with the microcode update, but it appears that drive link is down, anyone have a copy they'd be willing to help me obtain? bad link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CYOu3cTZMra5FZYpcbId6UnLWtoB2hSy

Thread's probably dead but it's worth a try.

Edit

I found this post in level1techs that looks promising in case any other user out there with this board is interested, going to test when I have a chance will update









[OFFER] Rampage IV Black Edition (NVMe + OpROMs with optional uCode update)


Hello all. Since I got myself a new MB, I decided to update/mod it’s BIOS. For now, there are two versions (both based on official 0801 beta), first one with NVMe patch (v4) and OpROM updates, and second one with added uCode updates on top that. Version A vs. Stock : ^other than updates that...




winraid.level1techs.com


----------



## Laithan

Your link seems malicious according to MalwareBytes FYA

The BIOS mods I used were from @WannaBeOCer but apparently he's been banned... I cannot see any of his posts. Thankfully @SparkyBoy006 posts are still available.

*42E* is the latest that I am aware of (why doesn't CPU-z show microcode...)










Try these:
https://www.overclock.net/threads/o...on-owners-club.1444356/page-760#post-27446185
https://www.overclock.net/threads/o...on-owners-club.1444356/page-761#post-27485426
https://www.overclock.net/threads/o...on-owners-club.1444356/page-767#post-27715520

This is his post on the ASUS forums:





Windows 10 WHQL RIVBE driver pack


4/28/19: Updated Drivers: -Asmedia_USB3_1.16.56.1 -Intel_Chipset_10.1.17969.8134 -Intel_LAN_23.5.2 -Intel_RST_Drivers_&_Software_Set_v17.2.6.1027 (Install when SATA is set to RAID mode) -Intel_RSTe_5.5.0.2012 (Install when SATA is set to AHCI mode) -Realtek_HDAudio_8688



rog.asus.com





Guide for flashing if needed:
https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-i...ck-edition-owners-club-1505.html#post26553596


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## Redshift 91

Not sure if the malicious link was the Level1Techs or the google drive but I know Level1Techs (check out their youtube Wendell is great) and the other link was posted here 3 or so years ago. Probably a false positive

Ill check out your links too, thanks, though the level1techs person seems to have added bifurcation support. Ill have some time to validate soon


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## Laithan

Redshift 91 said:


> the level1techs person seems to have added bifurcation support. Ill have some time to validate soon


Thanks yeah I would be interested to know if the BIOS posted there also has a newer microcode than 42E or not.


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## xmauro

microcode in bios doesn't matter windows 10/11 install new microcode when loading windows
maybe if you use windows 7 then microcode in the bios takes effect because it doesn't have microcode on loading


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## Laithan

xmauro said:


> microcode in bios doesn't matter windows 10/11 install new microcode when loading windows
> maybe if you use windows 7 then microcode in the bios takes effect because it doesn't have microcode on loading


This I didn't actually know.. it checks out. 

Wonder if Linux does too... hmm


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## Redshift 91

I'm going to be running a bunch of stuff, but I really wanted to have nvme support for more drives than just my 950pro. I'll still post back once I have the time to install and check regardless. It's been an extremely long time since I've been active here, but I'm repurposing my old board rivebe so some server and virtualization related features are needed. Managed to get a 2697v2 for $42 and a good air cooler for another $33 so I'm going to start a proxmox/pfsense/pihole/nas/jellyfin project and stuff. It's a good way to recycle some hardware since my 3930k bit it from the crazy oc I ran on it for 6 years. 

moving to a watercooled 5950x/6900xt for my main rig soon.


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## Redshift 91

So Im still using bios 701 official because Im testing compatibility. So the answer to ecc memory is that unbufferred/unregistered ecc posted on my xeon 2697 v2 on my rivbe. It's somewhat easy to tell as unbufferred ecc has 1 more chip than standard desktop memory for the error correction. Chances are registered and lrdimms are unsupported on official bios, not sure on the modded omes. Looks like Im gonna drop money now that I know what to get.


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## ashrafkreidieh

hey guys,


Quick question, I'm running the asus black iv mobo with 4930k . Would it run M.2 PCIe X8 Adapter with two slots ?










GLOTRENDS Dual M.2 PCIe NVMe Adapter Without PCIe Splitter Function (PCIe Bifurcation Motherboard is Required), Support M.2 PCIe 4.0/3.0 SSD Soft RAID Setup in Windows/Linux (PA21) : Buy Online at Best Price in KSA - Souq is now Amazon.sa: Electronics


GLOTRENDS Dual M.2 PCIe NVMe Adapter Without PCIe Splitter Function (PCIe Bifurcation Motherboard is Required), Support M.2 PCIe 4.0/3.0 SSD Soft RAID Setup in Windows/Linux (PA21) : Buy Online at Best Price in KSA - Souq is now Amazon.sa: Electronics



www.amazon.sa







It states that the mobo must have the Support PCIe-Bifurcation Only.



PCI adopter with one slot works and i wondering if a two slot card would work with our boards.. thanks.


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## Redshift 91

The official bios do not support bifurcation but I very recently posted a link to a modded bios that should. I have not tested so cannot confirm


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## ashrafkreidieh

Redshift 91 said:


> The official bios do not support bifurcation but I very recently posted a link to a modded bios that should. I have not tested so cannot confirm


REDSHIFT 91, Thank you for your reply, by any chance could you point me too where to find this modded bios. 
Maybe i will try it myself.


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## Redshift 91

[Official] Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club!


Does anyone have any experience with the bifurication support that was added to the latest modified BIOS? I read confirmation that an ASUS Hyper M.2 x16 card would work on x79 with the bifurication support modded in... which would mean that (if all M.2 slots were populated) the BIOS would see 4...




www.overclock.net





This is the post, it's only on the page before this one. Youll have to flash using the flashback method not the bios method there's a guide posted after mine that has that info


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## Herbet23

Hello! New here! 
Can the motherboard be damaged if using a non-asus TPM?


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## Laithan

Herbet23 said:


> Hello! New here!
> Can the motherboard be damaged if using a non-asus TPM?


fya - This motherboard does not support TPM 3 so if you arfe looking to do this for Windows 11, it will not help you.


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## Laithan

I ran into an odd issue... perhaps someone can help. 

I went into the BIOS to save my current BIOS profile and as soon as I hit save my system froze and I was greeted to a black screen after I had to hit reset. Then powered off multiple times.. unplugged from the wall, let it sit for a few.. multiple times. The system would no longer post no matter what, I was getting a B6 code on the board. I think this has to do with a corrupt NVRAM. I was trying to clear the CMOS via the button on the I/O panel but it was not working. I could not even switch to the other BIOS. It would turn on but that's it.. no post and still stuck on code B6.

After letting it sit running for about 10-20m it finally posted.. I was shocked to hear the beep. After I heard the beep for the post I tried to reset the CMOS again and this time it worked, back to a stock config. I thought I was good to go but I went back into the BIOS to load a saved profile.. bam same thing again... apparently I cannot save or load a profile.

I didn't think the CMOS battery would erase the NVRAM. How do I erase the NVRAM? Would flashing via BIOS flashback erase the NVRAM also?


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## ashrafkreidieh

Laithan said:


> I ran into an odd issue... perhaps someone can help.
> 
> I went into the BIOS to save my current BIOS profile and as soon as I hit save my system froze and I was greeted to a black screen after I had to hit reset. Then powered off multiple times.. unplugged from the wall, let it sit for a few.. multiple times. The system would no longer post no matter what, I was getting a B6 code on the board. I think this has to do with a corrupt NVRAM. I was trying to clear the CMOS via the button on the I/O panel but it was not working. I could not even switch to the other BIOS. It would turn on but that's it.. no post and still stuck on code B6.
> 
> After letting it sit running for about 10-20m it finally posted.. I was shocked to hear the beep. After I heard the beep for the post I tried to reset the CMOS again and this time it worked, back to a stock config. I thought I was good to go but I went back into the BIOS to load a saved profile.. bam same thing again... apparently I cannot save or load a profile.
> 
> I didn't think the CMOS battery would erase the NVRAM. How do I erase the NVRAM? Would flashing via BIOS flashback erase the NVRAM also?


I'm not 100% , but try to remove the bios chip on the board too the one next to it . switching button inst working stated above. so do it manual , by removing chip another chip. just do it gentle .


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## Laithan

ashrafkreidieh said:


> I'm not 100% , but try to remove the bios chip on the board too the one next to it . switching button inst working stated above. so do it manual , by removing chip another chip. just do it gentle .


Thanks, I may end up having to do something like this. For now, the board works and I can load/save profiles to an external USB drive... I may just try BIOS flashback and see if that helps too.

Once I got the board back up and running I figured I would say goodbye to the 3090Ti... I have a 4090 coming so the plan was to sell the 3090Ti but given the 4090 situation I might keep the 3090Ti a little longer as a backup (I smell 4090 a RMA in my future..hopefully not literally)...

Anyway, not bad for such an old system.. I scored 6 168 in Speed Way

Compared to a 9900K 8C/16T Result


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## nofearek9

nice results! looking forward to see the 4090 results.this board has still life on it after 10 years.my plan is a 4080.


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## Laithan

@WannaBeOcer @Sparkyboy008

I just wanted to leave this here.. Both WannaBeOcer and Sparkyboy have put together an amazing collection of the latest version of drivers, apps, utilities and firmware. To be clear, there are two modified versions of the 0801 BIOS they each made for the RIVBE as credited above. If you search back you will notice that all of WannaBeOcer's links are no longer valid and he's not a member here anymore. I was able to find Sparkyboy's links and they were actually still valid. I thought I was all set but I ran into a problem booting my NVMe PCIe adapter. Long story short, they both modified the BIOS for this board and they were mostly identical (both have the latest 42e microcode) adding the same features however I learned that there is a small difference with the _NVMe boot support_ that was added. On the WannaBeOcer BIOS I am able to boot from an NVMe to PCIe adapter but the links to download it are not working. Since the links are dead I went through my old files and I finally found a copy of the latest 42e 0801 BIOS from WannaBeOcer and wanted to leave it here if anyone else needs it. If you don't intend to boot from NVMe then either MOD BIOS is just fine but if you do need the bootable NMVe support, this may be the only way to download this version now.


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## Laithan

Longshot, but figured I would ask. 

Does anyone have a "for parts" RIVBE they would be willing to sell?

I just retired one of my RIVBE boards which has both a VRM and Chipset water block installed. Unfortuntely I did not receive the stock heat syncs when I bought it. It is a perfectly working board but I don't think many people are going to want to build a loop with it in 2022+ which makes it almost useless.. I'd love to reinstall the stock syncs and make it an air cooled board again.

Thanks in advance.


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## Redshift 91

trying to sort out a weird issue. When I enable overclocking on a modded bios, standard nvme drives completely disappear. I confirmed this on a different asus x79 board that I'm using a 950 pro boot drive that's overclocked. Even inside the OS the drive is completely undetectable. Once I clear cmos on the modded bios the drive is available again. Was this a known behavior?

for clarity, there doen't even need to be an oc present, it's just enabling the settings that breaks it.

not being able to boot from nvme isn't really a deal breaker for what I want to do but the drive still being unavailable once I'm booted into an OS is an issue.


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## psyclist

Im finally putting my RIVBE to bed, will go up on the shelf with my DFI LanParty s939. Was and still is an amazing platform! 4.8Ghz out of my 1660v2. Loved this board! Good luck to all in the future!


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## Laithan

Redshift 91 said:


> trying to sort out a weird issue. When I enable overclocking on a modded bios, standard nvme drives completely disappear. I confirmed this on a different asus x79 board that I'm using a 950 pro boot drive that's overclocked. Even inside the OS the drive is completely undetectable. Once I clear cmos on the modded bios the drive is available again. Was this a known behavior?
> 
> for clarity, there doen't even need to be an oc present, it's just enabling the settings that breaks it.
> 
> not being able to boot from nvme isn't really a deal breaker for what I want to do but the drive still being unavailable once I'm booted into an OS is an issue.


Try the BIOS above.

I can confirm that on that BIOS a 950 Pro boots while overclocked (my son's PC). Also with that BIOS a standard NVMe drive (without a seperate BIOS like the 950 has) also boots while overclocked (my Win7 machine). It is hard to help without knowing what BIOS settings you have changed or what MOD BIOS you are using but the one above is gold for this MB and has the latest microcode.




psyclist said:


> Im finally putting my RIVBE to bed, will go up on the shelf with my DFI LanParty s939. Was and still is an amazing platform! 4.8Ghz out of my 1660v2. Loved this board! Good luck to all in the future!


These boards still get a nice chunk of change on fleabay.. not sure if you checked


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## Laithan

Laithan said:


> Longshot, but figured I would ask.
> 
> Does anyone have a "for parts" RIVBE they would be willing to sell?
> 
> I just retired one of my RIVBE boards which has both a VRM and Chipset water block installed. Unfortuntely I did not receive the stock heat syncs when I bought it. It is a perfectly working board but I don't think many people are going to want to build a loop with it in 2022+ which makes it almost useless.. I'd love to reinstall the stock syncs and make it an air cooled board again.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


So... not having any luck finding a donor board to recover the stock heat sinks.

Perhaps a dumb question but does anyone think the aluminum blocks on both the chipset and the VRMs would be enough to run the board on AIR @ stock settings - just acting as a basic heat spreader? I can't test this myself because I don't have a spare CPU cooler at the moment. Assume the original vrm syncs may have been overbuilt. I was ready to order a cooler but then I thought it could be a waste of money if this this board can't even run on stock AIR. Ty


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## Redshift 91

@Laithan 

My rampage iv BE decided to die tonight while I was configuring proxmox I may be able to send my heatsink


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## Laithan

Redshift 91 said:


> @Laithan
> My rampage iv BE decided to die tonight while I was configuring proxmox I may be able to send my heatsink


Sorry to hear that.. I would definitely be interested in the heatsinks. Thank you for thinking of me! I'll DM you.


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## V3teran

I have been looking at other motherboards to buy like the the z590 and z690 ROG boards. However with a 1680v2 and 4.5 ghz i have no reason to upgrade, i mean i can play literally anything at 60fps or more at 1440p. I dont really need to upgrade and cannot justify it so play the same games that i play. I think the only game that will probably make me upgrade is GTA6.


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